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 CONTENTS
THE GAY COOKBOOK

INTRODUCTION . V
CHAPTER ONE 1
CANAPES, HORS D'OEUVRES AND APHRODISIACS
CHAPTER TWO . . . 13
SOUP, THAT JUICY STUFF
CHAPTER THREE . . . . . . . 19
j!. SALADS AND DRESSINGS; INCLUDING LE FRENCH
CHAPTER FOUR. . . . 33
CHILI, CURRIES, SPAGHETTI SAUCES
AND OTHER BLOOD TINGLERS
Copyright © MCMLXV, Sherbourne Press, Inc.
CHAPTER FIVE . . . . . . . . · 51
THE SHELL GAME; OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, SHRIMP
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 65-14725 AND WHAT TO DO WITH CRABS
J CHAPTER SIX. . . 71
Printed in the U.S.A.

I
THAT TIRED OLD FISH
This edition published by Bell Publishing Company, Inc., CHAPTER SEVEN. . . . . . . . 87
a division of Crown Publishers, Inc., by arrangement WHAT TO DO WITH A TOUGH PIECE OF MEAT
tI with Sherbourne
BCD E
Press.
F G H CHAPTER EIGHT. . . . . . 129

[ All rights reserved, Mary.

CHICKEN QUEENS, CHICKEN
AND OUR OTHER FEATHERED
A LA KING
FRIENDS

Ii CHAPTER NINE.
SAUCES, GRAVIES AND
. .
OTHER
. .
BROWNISH
. . .
DELIGHTS
161

I~
I.
CHAPTER TEN
VEGETABLES;
.
PLAIN
.
AND
. .
FANCY
185

I CHAPTER ELEVEN . . . . 209

LOOSE ENDS; INCLUDING POTATOES
AND OTHER WEIGHT LIFTERS
CHAPTER TWELVE . · 231
IN YOUR OVEN!
CHAPTER THIRTEEN · 255
DRUNKS AND DRINKS
INDEX · 275

III
 INTRODUCTION
......... ........ ................
.:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:. : : : : :.~: : : :•..: : : : : : : : :..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..).:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:..:.

In these sensuous sixties, when we're all waiting for someone to

drop that big one, and hoping-for goodness sake-that there isn't a
cake in the oven at the moment, one pauses to note those perennial
offerings of the literary entrepreneurs-cookbooks.
Each year, it seems, new and varied cookbooks are on the market;
in fact, a cult of collectors of these items appears to be one of the motifs
of our time.
Of course, there's nothing really new about cookbooks; some of the
earliest known volumes remain from Rome in the time of those gay
Caesars. Were they ever the ones! From all accounts those wayward
Romans had some dietary and social habits that were just too much.
They'd eat it laying down; then, when they'd had all they could take,
they'd swish into a handy room and spit it all out! Obviously, these
were amateurs, although maybe some things weren't quite as tasty
then as they seem to be now.
Fragments of even more ancient Egyptian papyrus, cuneiform
bricks that are all but undecipherable, together with mystic items such
as the Rosetta Stone, the Dead Sea Scrolls, are found to abound with
references such as: "... take a half-pound of the high-priced spread,
two macerated turnips, a leek ... ," etc.
Of course, there'oe been some changes. Even fifty years ago many

v
 things weren't as good as they are now, including cookbooks. We had to offer about cookery, but it at least tells you how to get all those
(. .. yes MY1tle, I do remember .. .) some rather rough French transla- damned cans open.
tions in this line (no pictures!), and the NEW BOSTON, or was it Now, we also have two-burner cookbooks, diet cookbooks (to grow
OLD FANNY FARMER? A couple of truly wonderful old books for thin), diet cookbooks (to grow fat?), bachelor's cookbooks, the busy-
dyed-in-the-wool professionals by European chefs Ranhofer and Es- . girl's cookbook (we've always wondered about her), bride's cookbooks
coffier were around. Then, from across the sea some local collections (they used to have to cook, too). Judge's cookbooks, ballplayer's cook-
of "receipts"; and the Ladies' Guilds of many large and small American books, and so on. A social-status magazine offers: HOW TO COOK
communities often got together and put our regional, or even neighbor- WITH A MILLION DOLLARS. Lovely little snacks, but who can
hood cookbooks. These last undoubtedly caused many of the family afford them and the magazine too!
split-ups noted in the War between the States. And we haven't even mentioned the regional and national cook-
Later, as the 20th century rolled on-and on-and on, cookbooks books. Oi veh! Is this a thing in itself. There are Italian cookbooks, but
developed character, and characters developed cookbooks. The trusty there are also REAL Italian Cookbooks, Southern Italian Cookbooks,
"old family receipts" became tried-and-true original recipes directly Northern Italian Cookbooks, Calabrese Italian Cookbooks, Journeys
from Paul Bunyan and/or Johnny Appleseed. The classic bit about with Indigestion from the Alps to Sicily, Tomato or NOT tomato, and
{ishcakes-with or without tomato sauce-was said to come directly from so forth.
that New England Priscilla who was left alone with her skillet when The same sort of thing goes on in our own country, and here they've
John and Miles went out into the woods to ... er ... talk it over. dreamed up some red-hot rivalries as well. For example, a distinguished
Then, Presidents, or their good wives, Eleanor, Bess, and Mamie writer will extoll 'real burgoo from Kaintucky' (with squirrels); a one-
all had their cookbooks. Ladybird will tell you how to barbecue an gallus Senator promptly mails 14 tons of government-printed prose in
ox, at the drop of a hat, and it is claimed she can turn out a jazzy rebuttal, which all boils down to his own recipe, (no squirrels!). Then
bowl of hot chili. Yes, Presidents and Senators and Archbishops and someone else opines that REAL Burgoo comes from Tennessee any-
actors too, have all "allowed as how they like to cook." way, and has rabbit in it! A foods-writer on the Mole Hole (Idaho)
Brawny wrestlers found that a well-publicized sponge-cake tossed Argus says genuine burgoo has prairie dogs in it. At this point, the
off while waiting for their wave to set was good business. Tired old Las Vegas P.R. men get into it by having one of the Clan state over
burley queens offered cookbooks. Maine guides came out with 'em, NBC that, "... out here we call it Mulligan ... "; then Elliot Ness slyly
as did ministers, masons, and-morticians. ripostes, ".. that's more of that effete Italian stuff. In Reno we call it
Celebrities got into the act. It paid more than vaudeville for a while Son of a Bitch Stew." And so it goes, with a lot more cookbooks on the
there! Hat-check girls, bell-hops, floormen and doormen grinned from dealer's shelves and in the drugstore's racks. Hardly room 'for the tires,
the covers of some real tired material. Lindy's waiters, Gallagher's sometimes!
waiters, Luchou/s waiters, 21's waiters, even the Colony's waiter- Incidentally, in California where so many things are done different-
captain, (a waiter wrote it, but the captain got most of the credit, most ly, people just go to the super-market, get six assorted TV dinners,
of the tip), all were in the book business. scrape 'em off the tinfoil platters (save these, Bessie, they make gorg-
In consequence, there are books on How to Cook a Wolf, and pre- eous lampshades) into a pot. Add a dash of Tabasco, a handful of chili
sumably vice-versa, a Book of One-Arm Cookery (it must be assumed powder, a soupcon of MSG; heat in a slow oven for two hours. This
that the other arm was cooked the week before) and so on. And there makes REAL TRUE GENUINE SUPER Burgoo, though in some parts
are the specialty cookbooks. Mad, girl, mad! Wine cookbooks, vege- of the Hollywood Hills (the Swish Alps) it is just called a Real Ragout.
table cookbooks, all-meat cookbooks, no-meat cookbooks, (that's a life, They're very French up there!
dearie. Some has it, some don'tl) In any case, there seem to be new jazzy cookbooks for everyone,
There's books on how to cook Campbell's Soups, Campbell's Pork for every type, every temperament. A mad, mad, mad Editor has coyly
and Beans, Campbell's Cat and Parakeet Manna, Campbell's Hi-Pruf suggested: "Oh. hell, May, why don't you people have a cookbook?
Radiator Compound, Campbell's Camden Town Cheesy Sauce, etc. After all, you're supposed to be 'one-in-six', and that's a lot of cooking!"
The Campbell people, never ones to pick up their dolls and go home, Well, this is an idea! Why not? As a popular writer and columnist
have, it is alleged, also come out with a gorgeous little book as a prize. put it, "You used to guess whether 'one' was or wasn't. Now it's damned
This little literary gem (with pictures) really doesn't have too much hard to tell who isn't."
VI VII
 To repeat, why not? Many sad souls come home from a rough day
over the ribbon counter, or from working over a hot comptometer, or
even from "down on Madison" (it's rough, down on Madison, compe-
titionwise) and face the prospect of wading into that grim little kitchen-
ette to whip up something cheap and filling. No 'little woman' to greet
CHAPTER ONE
him at the door, with customary whine about something or other. No
smell of a scorching stew, either.
Canapes, Hors d' oeuores
Yes, in that magic hour 'tween day and dark, after effacing the
ravages of the day's toil, and before the night's serious cruising, ya
... and Aphrodisiacs
gotta take on some food. Man, woman, or child, a girl has got to eat!
So we'll offer here a sort of nonsensical cookbook for the andro-
gynous (don't bother to look it up, Maude. It means "limp-wristed"),
and while we can't guarantee the quality of the guests, these dishes
may be set before, we do not hesitate to assure the reader that all 'Biscuit and Sherry'
preparations and recipe details are honest and practical. Chinese Almond Cookies
Here then is the GAY COOKBOOK, which some queen will Sherry
promptly call FAGGOT'S FARE. Canapes
Dunks
Liptauer Cheese
( Caviar
Hors D'oeuores
The Aphrodisiac Bit

,I...

,
I

VIII

1
i:j

ONE
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The genteel and/or 'refeened' reader will gather from the above
chapter heading that we are going to start this thing off with a mad,
gay swish! Acting on the premise that we are to join our reader in
planning and preparing all these recommended goodies, let us say here
and now that our slant is to the moderate-living person, not the gourmet
type who simply ices up a magnum of Mumm's, ices a pound or so of
fresh Belugia, and de-ices his (or her) old tired fascinator, in prepara-
tion for a guest or guests.
That bit is for those who've got it made one way or another, and
who really don't need any warm-up or culinary enticement, or for
those who have a rich uncle and are at the moment loaded. These
last would be ill advised, however, to save their pennies in entertain-
ing: uncles, cousins twice removed, even "old aunties,' don't always
last out the season!
So, for the host (of whatever sex) who is saving: (1) ... for old
age, (2) ... to buy a Xmas present for Jim, (3) ... for a new drag,
etc., we'll try to keep things a bit economical.
There always comes a time when someone drops in to call. This
carriage-trade is lovely if you can get enough of it! Be it late afternoon
or early morning, or whenever, and you don't feel like putting up a

3
full meal for this number, a very proper service is: a BISCUIT and cookie jar is a very handy thing to have around the house, but if
SHERRY. you don't have one, you can always cram the cookies into Aunt
Actually, this is truly proper and in good taste, either for a visiting Louise's reticule. She's had practically everything else stuffed into
vicar, or the Fuller Brush man. that gadget. Why, she tells of the time ... Oh, sorry, that's
As you must know, 'biscuit' is British for cookie or cracker, or even another story.
a small cake, though these are usually quite plain. A 'water biscuit' is Now, about the SHERRY. Well, it depends entirely on what tastes
something like an unsalted soda cracker or a thickish matzo. Now good to you, and what you can afford. (Don't it always, Tessie?) And
these obviously wouldn't be suitable for this 'B and S' routine; a little don't let that price thing throw you. A lot of the cost of the expensive
something a little more elaborate is called for. Much more suitable are brands is for the export and import taxes, name and fame, packaging,
the macaroons and that type of thing; too, there's plain shortbreads, as etc. The price range is, however, somewhat amazing; there are some
well as the Swedish and Danish type cookies. We here at Happy House good American Sherries for as little as .65 a fifth, whereas some fancy
find that the very nicest assortments are from the Italian stores, where imported brands may cost up to $8.00 for the same amount. Actually,
biscotti are to be had fairly reasonably. We think that the domestic a small knowledge of Sherry is very helpful and can make for an
are often fresher, and less expensive. A sort of almond-anise number interesting weekend's play in itself. There are many good books on
called amoretti sends us. the subject and these wiII inform you of the many classes, grades, and
Or perhaps you want to make your own little cookies? What the types of this very versatile wine. We suggest you go to a large and
hell, Ella, why not? It's real fun, not too messy if you keep it simple, expensive or "exclusive" looking liquor store and there explain to the
and it won't cost too much more than store-bought ones. So try it. salesman that you want to learn a little about Sherry. Believe me, in a
Some of the not-too-sweet ice-box cookies work out nicely; they come good store he'll help. Take home four or five bottles - all different -
frozen and you just hack off a slice ... well, just follow the directions and casually sample them over the following few days. Maybe a very
on the can, dearie! Or, we find these CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES dry or a pale wiII appeal to you; possibly a COCKTAIL SHERRY, or
very easy to make, very smart to serve. They keep well if locked away a MEDIUM, a SWEET or a NUTTY, a PALOMINO, or a CREAM
and go very nicely with Sherry. will be your favorite. Each has an individual taste - all are approxi-
Cream together in a largish bowl: 1 heaped mately the same strength. Say that you decide that you can afford a
cup of confectioner's sugar (powdered - wine that's in the $1.25 to $1.50 class (a fifth), or slightly more. Very
XXXX) and one half pound of softened good Californian as well as New York State Sherries are available at
butter or good quality oleo. Work in 3 this price or very little more. Many Sherry drinkers prefer domestic
cups of fine-ground almonds (these are wines, and some say that the best of the sweeter wines comes from
sometimes hard to find; most large health California, while the New York wines are superior in the dry types.
food stores have them); add )~tsp. mace. This may well be. Like so many other fine things it's all a matter of
When the mixture is all blended together, personal taste.
(and with all that handling it'll be quite Good liquor dealers will encourage you in your browsing 'midst the
stiff), add up to a full tsp. of almond bottles; many will offer you all sorts of literature about your Sherry.
extract. Drop the mix by teaspoon onto a You can easily become something of a connoisseur. You may be sur-
lightly buttered baking sheet. (No, dear, prised, possibly, to find that many hosts have no alcohol drinkable
this is a flat metal pan. Not those old lav- other than Sherry or some other single wine. It's chic, and it's econom-
ender rags off the day bed.) Space them ical. Of course, you can always play it real cool; have several brands
well apart and flatten them with the back on hand. Save that imported Sherry (at $7.80) for someone really
of the spoon. Bake at 3250 until light elegant; serve the .98 cent stuff to that casual trade. The result can be
golden brown, about 12-15 minutes. Take about the same in either case. Practically all Sherry is about 22% alcohol
them off the sheet carefully, let coolon by volume. A little over one fifth of that bottle is pure alcohol; the
towel or rack until thoroughly cold. They wine is 44 proof. You can very, very easily get looped on Sherry
will be very crisp at first; are much better (regardless of price), and so can your guest. So careful, dearie! And
after storing in a tight can or jar for a day or so. A big sto~e as a last word, a next-morning-head after Sherry-in-excess is a devas-

4 5
 tating dilly. We know! of waming.- do not make these or any other kind of canapes
Perhaps you feel you want to be elegant, and have some canapes more than 2 or 3 hours ahead. They get soggy and limp; as you all
n' stuff. Frankly, we suggest - unless you're very handy in the kitchen know too damn well, a limp delicacy is neither pretty nor tasty. Cover
- that you order, and it's certainly much less trouble. However, if you the tray or platters of canapes while you have 'em in the icebox, with
must do it yourself, here's a few ideas. a piece of waxed paper, or better, with pliofilm, they'll stay crisp a
little longer. But - watch it! Too long in your refrigerator and they're
CANAPES
dead for all practical purposes.
The simplest of canapes are very often the best; no matter how Instead of crackers you can use toasts, either homemade or bought.
elaborate, your guests will wolf 'em down about as fast as you put You can pile these with almost anything (these days) and somebody'll
them out. So why not take it easy? eat it! Pages could be - and have been - written about this canape
The easiest canapes are the sort where you sm~ar some kind of a bit; there are books - some nicely illustrated - in the Public Library.
cheese mix on some kind of packaged cracker, and possibly add a dab (Yes Marne, they have books there, too.) These will be found under
of garnish. We know a mad character in San Francisco (where there classification 641 (all the foods) in the stacks.
is a large percentage of mad characters) who puts pineapple-cheese
(out of those little glass jars) or round crackers, and tops this with a DUNKS
candied violet, no less. Gawd, Mabel, how gay can you get? Even less fuss and maybe less expensive than these cheese-cracker
As there are all sizes and shapes of these crackers, and quite a few canapes, are the DUNKS. These are mixtures of cream cheese, sour
kinds of cheese mixes, you just take it from there. On top of each you cream, butter, dehydrated onions, garlic, seasonings, and/or herbs, etc.,
can fling a wide selection of little savory things such as: a piece of all whipped up in a bowl and chilled. These are served with potato
anchovy, or even a nice piece of herring, a half of a stuffed olive or a chips. Be sure to have some of the Barbecued Chips or crackers, com
slice (off one side) of ripe black olive, a piece of tomato, a shrimp, chips, toasted tortillas, Scandinavian hardbreads, and Rye-crisps. You
some capers, a piece of pickle, or a small piece of pickled cauliflower should serve these dunks with a lot of little butter-spreaders or small
or mustard pickle. Try decorating with a dab of chutney, a little tart knives, or even small spoons. The guests help themselves (do they
jelly or marmalade, a cocktail onion, a pinch of chopped crisp-cooked ever!) and ignore the host. He, however, is then able to single out that
bacon, and so on. Tiny pinches of parsley in little sprigs or finely muscular type and ask him to come into the kitchen and help loosen
minced, a wee dusting with paprika, or mustard, or curry powder can the ice-tray.
make 'em real pretty; real tasty, too. Cold beer is quite suitable to serve with these dunks; though you
A smart operator will figure might try to get hold of some Canadian Pale India Ale.
6-8 for each guest. Multiply by
the number of people expected LIPT AUER CHEESE
(and add in for the 'surprise An old-fashioned thing that gave Grandad his jollies is called a
packages' - the invited guests Liptauer Cheese, and is a very nice thing to have in .the 'fridge at any
will always drag in). Figure time. It'll keep for a week or so. This is best served with thin slices of
l too, 8 kinds of crackers, 8 black bread or pumpernickel. It's very tasty with chilled dry Sherry.
kinds of cheese, 8 kinds of gar- To make it:
nish, and go to work making 8 Work 2 small packages (3 oz. ea.) of cream cheese smooth in a
different kinds of canapes. Such bowl. Blend in gradually ~~c. of butter (half of a cube). Add 1 tsp.
an assortment, served on a nap- drained and chopped capers; 1 tsp. paprika; 2 or 3 minced ancho-
kin or lacy paper doily, on plates vies. Also 1 thin slice of onion, minced very fine, (or 2 small green
or platters will make a present- onions); 1~tsp. caraway seed (rolled and crushed'); ~ tsp. salt; 2
able and attractive service. This dashes Tabasco. Some old recipies as: Louis Sherry's, in 1886, add
will show at least one of your ~ oz. of brandy; another says ~ oz. of Aquavit (a Scandinavian
talents. . bee-sting). We have used a little Slivovitz to good effect, or even
However, a couple of words * oz. of heavy sherry, (who's got Slivovitz, anyway?). You work

6 7
 all this together; you lightly oil a small bowl, and put the gook Mixed drinks or cocktails are not good form with caviar.
into it. Cover with a waxed paper (or the whole thing may be As for the actual service, it is, of course, buffet style. The iced
rolled in heavy waxed paper, well chilled, and then cut into caviar is set up in the center of a fairly good-sized table or long side-
dollar-sized rounds for canapes). Chill the mixture for several board, on a cloth of good damask linen. A large low bowl or pan will
hours, but do not freeze solid. To serve, unmold on a leaf of let- . contain the crushed or block ice with the actual bowls of caviar sitting
tuce and serve with Rye-crisps, bread, etc. Obviously, any of in the ice. Next there are the condiments and garnishments as suggested
these ingredients may well be omitted, or any others may be above, as well as plates of thinly-sliced breads as with the Liptauer.
added to suit individual tastes. Having on hand several small There should be some small, plain UNSALTED crackers available.
bowls of the Liptauer, works out better than having it all in one There will be a neat pile of small linen napkins, a small row of butter
larger bowl. Have fun ... knives, and a pile - or piles - of small butter plates. The bucketed
wines and/ or other beverages, in ice, will be set at either end of the
CAVIAR
table with a supply of glasses. Use Champagne goblets for the spark-
Of course, if you are trying to impress someone, or are just the ling wine, sherry glasses for the sherry, (naturally!). There should be
elegant type, there's always caviar. Here too, it will be wise to take no flowers or other ornaments on this table; only the true elegance
some things to mind before going all out. Most important: Cheap of fine caviar and fine wine, with good silver, elegant china, fine
caviar very often isn't caviar, and it certainly is neither appetizing nor crystal, all laid out sparklingly on the fine damask cloth are necessary.
impressive. A fair caviar may cost at least $25.00 a pound; the same Guests serve themselves, piling up the stuff onto a few crackers or
amount of quite good caviar would be anywhere from $50 to $75; breads, then on to a small plate. Taking this, with a nappie, and a
really fine fresh caviar can easily be priced at twice or three times glass of the bubbly stuff they retire to a comer where they'll either
this figure. (Most of this exorbitant price is for special handling, air wolf it down to get back for more or they'll discover that they don't
chilled express, taxes out of the Soviet, taxes into the U.S., etc.) like caviar anyway and will surreptitiously inter it under a comer of
Regardless of cost, you must figure 2 to 4 ounces per person. (You the rug. Hosts should expect this. A week after a caviar bash, when
may skip several paragraphs to hors d'oeuvres, if this introduction to you come home from a hard day over the tubs, and wonder what
caviar service has floored you. that tired fishy smell is, you'd better check all the comers and such
The caviar must be served in bowls set in ice, the ice to be either out-of-the-way places.
crushed or in a solid piece. The bowls should be of fine silver or at
least very elegant heavy silver-plate. It would be unthinkable to serve HORS D'OEUVRES
caviar on cheap crockery. It may soften the blow to learn that most Canapes may sometimes be served as a first course of a meal as
hosts - hostesses, too - simply rent the fine glass, silver, and china for appetizers; however, a better idea is something a little more elaborate
this sort of a bash. and just a little different, something like a small salad. This may
There are certain standard accompaniments to caviar: sieved white eliminate the need to serve a salad. These items are usually called
of hardcooked egg, separately sieved yolk of hard cooked egg, extreme- hors d' oeuvres; without doubt some wit in your party will refer to them
ly fine-minced (then wrung out) white onion, small lemon (or lime) as a mare's best feature. Oh, well, Maude - c'est la vie!
sections, Tabasco Sauce. All these are to be available to one side of Simplest and easiest of these are the prettily packed Antipasto to
the caviar. Less encountered but more often used when served, is a be found in all Italian stores and in most large markets, delicatessens,
small dish of very strong [ewish-style beet-horseradish. Some people etc. These are pickled vegetables, sometimes with added fish. They are
are mad for this stuff and slap it on wherever J?,ossible.Proper, home- served chilled on a lettuce leaf, using a small jar or can to each portion.
made, family-style beet-horseradish is lusty, it II bum the lint out of As a novel idea, why not try the somewhat similar Japanese items,
your navel! Of course this will cause guests to drink more of the wine, serving either hot or cold Sake (Japanese rice wine) with them. These
but, if we're splurging anyway, what the hell! would include Sushi (small rice-formed canape-like things with gar-
Iced, very dry champagne is the most approved beverage with the nishes, often fish), Sushimi (sort of pickled or smoked fish, not unlike
fish roe; very cold, very pale, and very dry Sherry can also be served, lox), or tsukemono or sunorrwno. These are pickled 'sweet and sour'
as is iced Aquavit, sometimes iced Vodka. Or all may be on hand. vegetables. Of course, for these things you'd have to have them in
Woweee ... ! from a Japanese caterer, or from a Japanese restaurant, who would,

8 9
 probably rent you the very attractive Japanese dishes, stone wine dose: 0.001 gram). Dr. Acton praises the following formula for treat-
bottles and cups that you would also want for this service. Say, sounds ing impotence: Phosphorized oil, I ounce (phosphorized oil is pre-
kinda gay! Give you a chance to wear that mad kimono! pared by adding 6 grns. of phosphorus to I oz. of almond oil). A tea-
There are literally thousands of possible hors d' oeuvres; stuHed .spoonfull, gradually increased for a dose. No more than three daily.
and/or deviled eggs are twu good ones. With a dab of caviar on top, Same authority also advises a pill, taken three times a day, each
these become the classic Oeis a la Busse, and very grand they are. containing 1/33 of a grain of phosphorus. He continues: Melt 600
Quite small tomatoes stuHed with shrimp or crab or chicken, or sea- grains of suet in a stoppered bottle capable of holding twice that
food mixtures are very possible; marinated herring in sour cream or quantity. Add to this 6 grains of phosphorus; when dissolved agitate
spicy wine sauce is also delicious. A small piece of chilled gefulte fish, mixture until it is a solid. Divide into 3 grn. pills, cover each with gela-
served neatly on a lettuce leaf with a little of that beet-horseradish, tin. Each will contain 1/33 gr. of phosphorus.
a slice of pickle, and a few pieces of the carrot and the 'jelly' in which As promised, there you have it; remember it's illegal, Gert. Anyone
the fish was cooked, makes a wonderful hors d'oeuvre. If your guests for tennis?
are native New Yorkers, they'll love this; some of the canned and
bottled gefulte isn't so hot. If the guests are 'out-landers' or even .)

(God forbid!) anti-Semitic, tell 'em it's Swedish-style fiskeballen. It's

darned good eating and believe it or not, it's 'goy'!
Pickled beets, or marinated cucumbers (everyone can't eat these),
or a sort of pickled-in-oil celery called a la Victoire, are all fine appe-
tizers and hors d'oeuvres. Basically, these things are almost always
served cold. They should never be sweet. Sweet fruits make better
desserts.
Now about this APHRODISI-
ACS bit. Of course, we really just
threw that in there for a camp,.
But what the hell, Gertie, we II
try anything at least once at our
age!
For the more sedentary, the
truly innocent, an aphrodisiac is
a sort of sexual pepper-upper,
something to turn the motor over.
Or, according to a dictionary:
"exciting sexual desire, erotic, a
stimulant."
Let us state right here that it's illegal to use, prescribe, manu-
facture, possess, to give or to take, an aphrodisiac. Besides, it can be
dangerous, unhealthy, even lethal. Sound like fun?
Note is made of a popular formula of a famed physician and
surgeon, Dr. Acton.
This suggests that Phosphorous may be administered as an aphro-
disiac, in a variety of forms, especially in many of the widely adver-
tised compositions of glycer-phosphates and hypophosphates. Also,
it may be given in a more direct form, as dilute phosphoric acid,
recommended dose: 5-10 mins., or in shape of a pill, (recommended

10 11
 CHAPTER TWO
'Soups ... that Juicy Stuff'
( Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act. 2)

Cold Soups
Gaspacho
Canned Soups
Tomato Soup ala Tarragona

13
 TWO
.:'<-+e.)++(-: ••:-+<.+++<.<••><••:••:••:••:•.)<*(.<.<.+<.':.< ••:.<.':.•"·:••x·<..:··:·<·<..:••)+·:·~<·+<·<·<··:••:·<-<··)

There are some pretty solid soups; these would include most of
the cold soups, such as Vichysoisse, jellied consomme (a heavy, rich
clear beef broth - jellied); or the chicken version of the same (a
jellied chicken broth); or a jellied beef and tomato broth that is called,
in haute cuisine, Consomme Madrilene en Gelee. Or this same stuff
with considerable added pepper, is a Consomme Poivrade. Served
hot or cold, it's real tasty. [eez! Ain't we elegant; French names 'n
everything!
Remember girls, pepper is a basic 'motor-turner-over'. That is,
pepper does, to an extent, irritate. You either want to scratch, or do
something about it!
And while we're on the subject, ordinary ground black peQper
may very well be old, and all out of 'oomph'; it is not nearly so effec-
tive as coarse ground pepper, to be purchased in tight-topped glass
jars.
Now, May, you know just what it is these torrid Latins have on
the ball. Where were we now?
GASPACHO
Among the solid soups, there is one charmer that seems to be
15
 included in all high-type recipe collections (why should we be dif- Put this all into a large bowl; pour about 1 cup of water on it
ferent?) but never seems to appear on a restaurant menu. This is (not enough to cover vegetables). Weigh down with a heavy plate.
Gaspacho, which has been vaguely blamed on, or accredited to, bull- Put to chill in icebox for 8 to 10 hours, but do not freeze. To serve
fighters, Spanish fishermen, Basque sheepherders, Andorran hillbillies, use chilled bowls or soup-plates; added ice cubes are optional. A
natives of Southern France from the Midi or Provence, as well as the large dollop of sour cream on top seems to make the Gaspacho more
same from Northern Italy in Lombardy and Savoy. The Greeks and delectable. Serve with crackers, toasted tortillas, or crisp - even hot
the Montenigrens in the Balkans, it is alleged, are raised on the stuff, - French rolls or bread.
and thrive long and lustily! Now, let's give a little attention to just plain old-fashioned soup.
I know, Maude. You're all impatient, with your "what the hell As a snack by itself, or possibly with a sandwich or something
is it?" light, a bowl of rich, flavorful hot soup has a definite place.
Well, Gaspacho is a mess of chopped fresh raw vegetables, chilled However, we also think that serving soup at a more formal meal,
to very cold, and served as a soup. Modem recipe adaptation invari- does offer a lot of problems. We try to keep it all very simple; a
ably demands that we serve in chilled soup plates, with one or two formal-type meal that would include soup, could run to 6 or more
ice cubes. Too, many printed versions demand the vegetables be courses; this does not add up to intimate living. Our thought through-
pureed in a blender. To us this is ridiculous; we have heard some out this extravaganza is intimacy at any price!
rumored tales about Basque sheepherder's 'outlets'; they aren't elec- Besides, who wants to sing on an overloaded stomach?
trical. Besides, foods out of a blender always tend to give the impres- Let's just say that we'll keep a few cans of soup in the cupboard
sion they have already been eaten once. A frozen Daiquiri from a of our YMCA Shangri-La. Some guy wants soup ... what the hell,
blender can be really wonderful; but, we ask you, just think momen- give it to him. Many may feel that a character who is looking in your
tarily of the choicest edible morsel that you can think of. The last a:
pantry for can of Tomato will not be prowling through the dresser
thing you'd ever put it in would be a blender. The hell with blenders! trying to find your tiara. In any case, the customer is still always
But let's be fashionable, even chic. Live it up! Let's make some right.
Gaspacho. One thing, it's handy. You can have it in the ice-box, all Many things can be done with
chilled, and just dish it up as needed. It serves as a soup or as a plain canned soups to make them
salad, or even a light main dish - particularly on a warm day. Also, special. For example, a can of
there is considerable leeway possible with the actual ingredients. Tomato (condensed) can be dilu-
Let's try Gaspacho for two: ted with a rich chicken broth or
other stock, or even with water to
2 small cucumbers, seeded, 1 large tbsp, grated young which a bouillon cube or two has
chopped fine peeled carrot been added. Heated very hot, this
3 medium ripe tomatoes, seeded, 2 tbsps. grated fresh onion is nicely served up in hot bowls.
chopped fine !£ small heart of celery, chopped A pinch of chopped fresh tarragon
~ medium green pepper, fine can be dropped into each. This
trimmed, minced 3-4 green onions, chopped fine gives a completely different flavor
1 large clove fresh garlic, !£ small can pimientoes, chopped to the standard 01' tomato; in a
peeled, minced medium posh restaurant this would be
called Tomato, a la Tarragona.
Mix all this together, then toss in: Use your imaginations. And slyly
~~tsp. crumbled oregano leaves add a little pepper.
~£tsp. dry mustard (optional)
~ tsp. salt
~ tsp. coarse ground black pepper '"
1 fresh lime - squeezed all over

16 17
 CHAPTER THREE
Salads and Dressings ... including le French

Green Salad
Dressings
French Dressings
Cream French Dressings
Chefs '1-2-3' Dressing
Mayonnaise
Roquefort - or Blue Cheese - Dressing
1000 Island Dressing
Slaws
Cole Slaw
Swedish Slaw
Guacamole Dunk
Old StufJ
Shrimp, Crab, Lobster, Tuna,
Chicken Salad
Crab Louis
Crab Louis
Shrimp Louis
Shrimp Remoulade
Louis Dressing
Remoulade Dressing
Vegetable Combination Salads
Marinated Cucumbers
Pickled Beets
Favorite Salad
Fruit Salad
Honey Mayonnaise

19
 THREE
++.).: ..).:..:•.:•.:.•• :..:..:..:.(..:•.:..:..:..:..:..).:.<.•:..:••:•.:•.:.<••:••:••:•.;..:••:••:••:.•:••:•.:•.:••).: ••:••)( ••:••:.-:••:••:••:••:••:•.:•.:••:••).:.

As this little gem is being compiled in California,

often referred to as "the land of fruits and nuts"
(yes, we know, Bessie, a camp. But pull y'self
together . . . ), it is only fitting that definite con-
sideration be given to that California culinary main-
stay - the Salad. While almost every magazine and
news sheet these days teems with space-filling
recipes, many for alleged salads, we'll only mention
some of the less nauseous here.
Frankly, some of the things offered for public or private dining as
"salads" would make a hearty reindeer regurgitate. On the other hand,
because of their low caloric content (when not smeared with heavy
mayonnaise-type dressings) proper salads are a fine part of any meal
or snack.
There is no reason why the salad shouldn't be pretty, but it should
also always be as simple as possible. Also, it must be cold when
served on cold plates, please!
While reasonably small salads go with most modem meals, a
larger salad may well be the meal itself. Among the most adaptable

21
is the Green Salad; also called "tossed," "mixed," "Chef's" and so on. tions; our simple dressing can
Even this simplest of goodies is pretty much up to you, and depends become not only extensive
a great deal on what you want to spend on it. Nothing is cheap today, but expensive. Many gour-
dearie, particularly if you want to eat it. mets like to use a good olive
oil, or even 'part olive oil' and
GREEN SALAD a fine wine (or wine-flavored)
vinegar. Garlic powder (or
In our book, a Green Salad is best made of fresh, crisp greens, dehydrated garlic) is usually
that have been pre-washed, shaken dry, and chilled. There are the added - sometimes a pinch
various lettuces: romaine, chicory, cos, Bibb, iceberg, and endive may of mustard. Americans seem
well be considered in there. A little thinly-sliced celery adds texture to like their salad dressing
and flavor; a little fine-shredded green pepper, some very thinly-sliced with a touch of sweet, so a
fresh and small cucumbers go well if available. Watercress goes ele- little sugar is stirred in. Obvi-
gantly in the green salad, as do many of the fresh natural herbs, as ously this sort of thing could
well as sliced young scallions, and sprigs of parsley. While some type go on and on. A good French Dressing can be made with:
of lettuce will be the bulk of the green salad, very interesting varia- 3 cups oil (good salad oil, not corn oil. Part may be olive oil)
tions may be achieved by also using the carefully washed and picked 1 cup vinegar (red or white wine; be sure it's strong)
over fresh leaves of spinach, mustard greens, even turnip greens. No 1 tsp. salt, J~ tsp. white pepper, J~ tsp. garlic powder (or more)
cabbage! This belongs in a slaw, which we'll discuss later. J~ tsp. sugar
As noted, the greens are best prepared ;'. As with all salad dressings, this is best made a day or so ahead.
in advance; keep them in the icebox crisper, •• ~.~ Refrigerate (but not too cold) what you'll use, a few hours ahead;
or just wrapped loosely in a towel, or in a ".~.'f~ ~~o
the rest of the dressing will "keep" in the cupboard. (Of course not
over the stove, silly!) This dressing will separate; shake together to use.
wire salad basket. (You knew that a basket ~~~~·o~?~'"
would get honorable mention in here some- ~i',~,,,; <'>
CREAM FRENCH DRESSING
where, didn't you?) When ready to serve, ",-;"1,; •• \; ,
the green stuff is tossed together lightly in 1l' ~':~~~~:'Y"b" Many good (or adequate) bottled dressings are available at the
a large bowl. Add the dressing, and you ~ ';.":"~ ~:"~.:' market; a large part of these are so-called "cream" French dressings.
have it. u¢h '~,,~. Their particular feature is that these do not separate. This effect is
t ~~~

t>:\)~:" '"
achieved by using an egg base to form an emulsion with the oil.
jQ!\~:/~~ Many of these are very fine and very tasty dressings; also, they are
better bought than made .
.
e c "~" • >
"
,, I~'{: CHEF'S 1-2-3 DRESSING (Our own mad creation!)
DRESSINGS Mix in a large bowl:
1 tsp. ground cloves
Now, the dressings! These are very
2 tsp. salt
important to the salad. 3 tsp. paprika
1 cup honey
FRENCH DRESSING 2 cups 'garlic oil' (see below)
3 cups Red Wine Vinegar (strong)
Basically, a true French Dressing is made of three parts oil, one
part vinegar, with a little salt and pepper added. As simple as that! Mix together and bottle it. This dressing will separate; it is much
But to the inexperienced saladist, there may seem to be complica- better after ripening for 2 or 3 days. Your guests will vainly try to

22 23
 This dressing should always be kept cold in the 'fridge (no, not
guess what's in it. Unusual, and very tasty. Marvy on greens, sliced frozen) and is wonderful on green salads. No, it's not expensive.
tomatoes, vegetables.

GARLIC OIL 1000 ISLAND DRESSING

Also very popular, particularly on simple hearts of lettuce.
A couple of days before you are to use it, if you don't already
In a bowl, put:
have it on hand, make the garlic oil. Chop up a lot of peeled fresh 2 cups mayonnaise (or 'type')
garlic; add it to a pint or so of salad oil. Pour off the clear oil to use 1 to 2 cups Chili Sauce (comes in a bottle)
(we'll assume that you have sensibly bottled the stuff, and haven't 4 tbsp. (small handful) drained India (sweet) Relish
put it into the icebox). You can then pour in fresh oil to replace what 1 tbsp. sugar (optional)
you have taken off. Garlic oil is very handy to have on hand around 2 hardboiled eggs - chopped
the kitchen (where elser ), a drop or two in the skillet does wonders 2 tbsp. chopped Parsley (very fine)
for frying meats, and vegetables. Include fine herbs, coarse ground black pepper, horseradish,
chopped olives, pimiento, or any other odds arid ends that are
MAYONNAISE just taking up room in the icebox. Mix this well, chill it well, use
as needed. Keeps in icebox for quite a while. Can also be used as a
Mayonnaise, or dressing of that type, is much better bought than sandwich spread.
made, so why bother? Mayonnaise (strictly) is made with fresh eggs,
seasonings, salad oil, vinegar. If the jar is labelled "Mayonnaise," Well, that about covers what the average "bachelor girl" (male
State and Government Health Depts. are pretty particular about the or female) should have on hand for dressings.
contents; there must be so. much egg, and no "filler" or "thickener."
On the other hand, the slightly cheaper "salad dressing" does not
SLAWS
necessarily have eggs in it, and may be thickened with starch or
starch products. This does not imply that there is anything wrong with Back to our salads! There's always. the old reliable Cole Slaw,
it; it is every bit as edible and wholesome as the labelled "mayon- though it certainly doesn't seem very glamorous. Properly made, a
naise." Some brands of these "mayonnaise-type" dressings are indis- day or so ahead, this plebian delicatessen item call: be a real zinger.
tinguishable from the real stuff; some are even more tasty.
COLE SLAW
ROQUEFORT (or BLUE CHEESE) DRESSING To begin with, if you don't know, Cole Slaw is a salad of shredded
cabbage; it is well known to have certain healthful .and invigorating
A fine Roquefort Cheese dressing seems to be very appealing to qualities. Slaw also lends itself to many variations, a few of which
the physical, hairy-chested type. Some of us sissies just adore it, too! we'll cover here. Fresh green or white cabbage is trimmed of outer
This dressing should be made a few hours before using, as it does not leaves, then cut in half. (You'll do all this on a good clear, clean
keep too well, for too long a time. wood surface, like a large chopping board.) Make a deep V cut and
Put 1 lb. of Roquefort or any other Blue Cheese through a wire take the heart or core out of each half. Then, laid on its cut side, the
sieve, into a bowl. How? Don't be dumb, Lucille. 'Ya just poke it cabbage is easily cut across in fine shreds with a sharp French knife,
through with your thumb, or with a soup spoon or something the standard cook's knife. The finer the shreds the better; when these
like that. Rinse it through the sieve with a pint of milk or cream. begin to be coarse down at the base end, just discard the rest of that
Scrape a cut onion with a spoon to get 2 or 3 tbsps. of onion piece of cabbage. Added to the fine-shred cabbage, is a little finely-
juice. Then stir in one lb. of thick commercial sour cream; add a shredded celery, some shredded onion, chopped parsley or other
dash of Cayenne pepper, and mix it all together so there aren't herbs. Some shredded carrot may be used (though not for us), green
any lumps. If you wish, put in a tsp. of very finely minced parsley pepper, green apple, green onion, etc. Mix this all together and pour
or even green onion tops. The bit of color makes this look even over it a little vinegar and a little salad oil (you could use a little of
more jazzy. For a slightly thinner dressing, use a little more milk.
25
24
that garlic oil here), add a little salt, pepper, sugar, garlic powder.
You could go way out, and toss in some drained pineapple, some very seriously. There was an intense rivalry between certain social
raisins, some cocoanut. Now, add a little glop of mayonnaise (or leaders, which was sometimes really hilarious. The casual catch-as-
'type'), and stir it all together. Then - and this is important - the slaw catch-can faggoting of today was not known; seriously-formal dinners,
is put into a bowl or other container. of glass, china, or porcelain, but soirees, grand drags, etc., were the order of the day. This bit all hap-
not into any bare metal. Put a plate or saucer on top of the slaw in pened in San Francisco, probably in the mid-twenties. A really elegant
the container, and weigh it down with a can of beans or something. person entertained local royalty to dinner, serving among other things,
This weight is to keep the slaw well down into its juices, which will a very contrived salad. This was fashioned of upright banana sections
pickle it. Of course it goes into the 'fridge (not the freezer) and is set in bases of pineapple rings on cream cheese. There was a garniture
allowed to ripen for at least 24 hours; 36 hours is better. Before serv- of jumbo olives, etc. It was certainly a conversation piece, with much
ing, it is an idea to thoroughly mix the slaw together. Slaw is served camping and tittering among the tiaraed guests.
quite cold; it will keep as long as a couple of weeks in the icebox. Alas, this sort of thing is not being done anymore, and it's probably
Real dandy, and don't forget there are those alleged "invigorating all for the best. Our post-war characters are more of the "Hello Joe,
properties" ... let's go" type. Maybe that's just as well, too!

SWEDISH SLAW GUACAMOLE

This is made the same way, generally, except there are no carrots, Back to our salads! A guacamole salad is very popular in the West;
pineapple, raisins, etc. in it. Instead of using the mayonnaise, we it is easy to prepare, and moderately expensive. It can be made an
fling into the mixed cabbage a large glop of sour cream. We also add hour or so ahead of time, and has varied uses. Guacamole is also
a few caraway seeds and a little chopped fresh dill, except that we loaded with calories. For one large serving, or three or four smaller
rarely have any of this last around the house, so we just crumble up salad-sized portions, we need:
a little dried dill and toss that in. 1 large very ripe avocado - must be ripe all through
All things said, slaw is a very handy thing to have in the icebox; 2 medium size, firm but ripe tomatoes
it's economical, too! 1 small fresh lime (or juice of half a fresh lemon)
Good pinch of salt
CARROT SALAD
Another salad that seems to give men their jollies is the grated Optional:
carrot thing. This takes very little imagination to prepare, and it keeps 2 tbsp. scraped fresh onion pulp
well. You grate or shred very fine some young, tender carrots. (This and juice
can be very rough on the manicure, so watch it!) Toss in some rais~s, 1 level tsp. chili powder
pineapple, chopped parsley, green onions, chopped olives, or w~~t- 118 tsp. ground oregano
ever. A little salt and pepper are needed; celery salt goes well in this.
Then, you stir in some mayonnaise (or 'type'), or some old tired
bottom-of-the-bottle odds and ends of cream or French dressings. Basic Guacamole (the G is pro-
Almost any kind of salad dressing will mix well in this. Put the salad nounced like hw) preparation:
in the 'fridge for a couple hours before serving. It's pretty good eating Peel avocado and remove seed,
- particularly suitable for Hallowe'en or Thanksgiving parties, or etc. Put "meat" through wire sieve
bashes, buffets or drag dinners. Main thing is that this is basically a into bowl. Squeeze lime or lemon
simple salad, so try to keep it that way. juice over it immediately or it'll
To digress a mad moment, this all reminds me of a couple of blacken. Peel tomatoes (dip them - on a fork - a half-minute into
hilarious meals attended many, many years ago. Of course, in those boiling water; they'll peel easily). Cut them into quarters. Gently
days the 'genre' was considered more of a novelty - not one in every squeeze out juice and as many seeds as possible. Chop the solid tomato
five or six, as it is now - and some of those old dears took themselves parts medium-fine, drain off juice. Stir the tomato bits lightly into
the avocado and add salt, we use celery salt. Lightly whip the
26
27
 SHRIMP SALAD
whole thing, but don't wear it out. If used (and we do) the onion
pulp and juice is whipped in with the tomato. This makes a light, CRAB SALAD
sorta fluffy paste which is then lightly packed into a bowl, or into LOBSTER SALAD
cups for individual servings. Squeeze a bit more of the lemon or lime TUNA SALAD
juice over these, cover with a piece of waxed paper, and put in the CHICKEN SALAD
icebox for an hour or so. To serve, the molds are simply dumped out
neatly on to lettuce leaves, a .d served at once, usually with a few
corn chips.
That is an "original" Mexican recipe, before it's been crapped up
by some Hollywood or Brouklyn chef. As noted, many things can We will have to discuss some other old favorites which are to a
handily be added to this basic recipe, but stop a gol-durned minute! certain extent, "meal salads." These include Crab, Shrimp, Lobster,
The ripe avocado has a wonderful, nutty, buttery, but delicate flavor. Tuna, and Chicken' salads. They surely have their place as desirable
It's neither sharp nor pungent. The bland tomato compliments the and delectable dishes; they are not difficult to prepare; they could be
avocado nicely, and the salt and lime give it tone and accent. Why priced at moderately expensive to very expensive. Basic preparation
not leave well enough alone? for all is about the same: you will need about 1/3 as much finely
Oh well, some cooks will always feel, "it ain't really Mexican" unless chopped celery as you will have of the main ingredient, or 1 cup of
they load it with chili powder, oregano, chopped hot peppers, onion, celery to 3 cups of cooked shrimp, crab, lobster, tuna or chicken.
garlic, biocarbonate, or what have you. But the more that's added, the Almost always a little drained sweet relish is added to any of these
less you can taste of the avocado. We'll admit that we've enjoyed a mixtures, with some salt (celery salt) and pepper. A very little finely
large Guacamole served as a main luncheon dish with crumbled crisply shredded green pepper can be included; also some minced parsley,
fried and thoroughly drained bacon strewn over it as served. Good, and finely-chopped small green onion, With the seafood salads, a small
good, good! squeeze of lemon juice will nicely accent the flavor; use more of this
with the tuna, which will be canned. To this basic 4 cup mixture, you
stir in about one cup of mayonnaise or that "type" dressing.
With the Lobster, since this is as expensive as all hell anyway, you
GUACAMOLE DUNK could toss in a drained small can of mushrooms (stems and pieces).
As a simple dunk or dip, or just to accompany lots of iced beer, a With the Shrimp and Tuna" you can happily include a little grated
guacamole is swell! This is served with big potato or corn chips. When rind from the lemon. Chicken Salad may include a. couple of chopped
you're gonna use it as a dip, proceed as above; then take the guacamole hard-cooked eggs; easy on lemon juice, but do use a very little. Some
from icebox (after chilling a couple of hours) and quickly whip in chopped pimiento will help pretty the chicken up and it tastes good,
about Jf cup of thick, commercial sour cream to each cup of the salad. too; some celery seed - about Jf tsp. - adds distinction. We always
Whip as quickly and as lightly as possible, pile into a chilled bowl, add about a teaspoon of sugar to chicken salad.
and serve with bowls of the chips. When this is served with lots of To add another portion to any of these salads,' there is a neat
iced lager you can be assured that whatever else you may have had professional trick. (And some of these amateurs are getting very pro-
in mind, will have to wait until the dunk bowl is empty. fessional with their tricking!) This is to use a medium-sized, but very
firm head of lettuce. After carefully removing the outside leaves (to
be saved for plate garnish) the heart of lettuce, with the core removed,
is very finely shredded and minced; this is thoroughly mixed in with
OLD STUFF the salad. A very little more of the mayonnaise may be needed, but
this will add about one fourth in quantity of the salad. However,
We'll practically ignore those old standbys: Potato Salad and the salad with added lettuce should be used within a few hours;
Macaroni Salad; sure, men like' em, but are they ever fattening! Also, without it, these salads keep for two or three days, in refrigeration.
while either may be made in many styles and can undoubtedly be All of these salads may be served with any or all of the extra plate
delicious, they sorta lack glamor, and the hell with 'em.
29
28
garnishes desired, including; asparagus tips, pickle fans, olives, sliced a lemon-mayonnaise. Too, the cut-up green summer squashes and
hard-cooked eggs, sliced or julienne beets, tomato sections, and the green Italian zucchini, also plain boiled, (though not too well),
drained, chilled, and served with a tart and zesty French dressing,
like. They are all :fine eating!
with possibly some minced green onion for accent, are fine salads.
"Then, the usual peas, beans, cauliflower, etc., are fine salad material.
CRAB LOUIS
When cooking vegetables for salads, we must not overcook them.
SHRIMP LOUIS
To keep the original colors we do NOT salt the water. Salt bleaches.
SHRIMPS REMOULADE
DO add a small spoonful of sugar instead; this sets the color. Or use
Among many other well known and popular salads of this order, frozen vegetables to start with; say a rackage of Italian Green Beans,
are Crab or Shrimp Louis, and Shrimps Remoulade. We will only spare one of small Brussels Sprouts, one 0 cauliflowerettes, one of mixed
these a word here as their principle service is as a 'main dish.' Nicely vegetables. These are cooked separately, and only for about 3 minutes
_ and expensively - served, these make extremely attractive meals. at the boil in sugared water. Cooking water is drained away, replaced
Nearly all are prepared in a like manner. Cooked crabmeat, or shrimp, with cold; the vegetables are put into the icebox to chill thoroughly,
or prawns are scattered over impressive beds of shredded lettuce or a half hour or more. Well drained, the bright, fresh-looking vegetables
romaine. A Louis Sauce or a Remoulade Sauce is poured over, and are mixed lightly with a light dressing, garnished with tomatoes, and
then the whole platter is elaborately decorated with most of the items are served forth. A true salad, with few calories, and extra healthful
mentioned as garnishes in the paragraph just above. Peculiarly, the content. Satisfactorily filling, too.
Louis items are popular and well received on the West Coast; the
Remoulade around the Gulf. Though the salads are quite similar, MARINATED CUCUMBERS
neither area seems to have heard of the other's. There are probably Marinated fresh cucumbers are a fine, simple salad; are best made
hundreds of recipes for the Louis and Remoulade dressings. Here are the day before; they are easy to serve, and are not expensive when
two; cukes are in season. Get firm but ripe medium-sized cucumbers (no
matter how attractive some of those great big ones are.) Wipe them
LOUIS DRESSING with a damp cloth, cut off a half inch at each end. They may be
1 cup mayonnaise (or 'type')
•• peeled, or not peeled, or just partly peeled. Take a strong table fork
1 cup whipped cream - stiff and run it down the side from end to end, scoring the cucumber. Do
1 cup chili sauce (bottled) this all around. Then slice in thin, even slices. Peel a few red or yellow
Dash of Tabasco Sauce onions, (red are sweetest) discard end slices, slice the rest in thin
slices or half slices. Peel a few buds of fresh garlic; sliver these up.
Many inferior restaurants use something that is more like 1000 Put cukes, onion and garlic into a deep bowl, or better, in a wide-
Island dressing, on this plate; it still tastes pretty good. mouthed gallon glass jar. Fill about two-thirds of the jar with cold
REMOULADE DRESSING is made of a sort of egg-mayonnaise, water, add about one-half cup (small handful) of salt, a large tbsp. of
with added sieved egg yolks (cooked), thinned with .a Bahamian sugar. If you like, throw in some pickling spice. Fill jar with good
mustard and/or white wine. Minced celery is in it and several herbs, strong cider vinegar; cover and put into the icebox until needed. To
dried or fresh, also minced. Remoulade is very tart, peppery, mustardy, serve, dip out the cukes and onion slices, let drain, arrange on lettuce.
good with shrimp (cooked) or prawns (cooked). This dressing would Serve as is, or put a little light cream French dressing on them. The
be too sharp for Crab or Lobster, though the Louis goes very well
with them.
-..
~~.", ."'''
cukes will hold for 3 or 4 days in the 'fridge. Then, they lose much of
their appetizing crispness. The last few can be drained, chopped, and
tossed into any vegetable combination or green salad. The pickling
VEGETABLE COMBINATION SALADS liquid can be used again for fresh cucumbers and onions. Very fine
We still think first of fresh and/or green vegetables when salad is man food.
mentioned, and firmly believe that simply prepared and simply dressed, PICKLED BEETS
these make the very best salad. Prime among these are asparagus and
broccoli; both are plainly boiled, drained, chilled, and are served with Equally simple, and equally satisfying as a simple salad, are pickled

30 31
beets. Canned, sliced salad beets are best to use; these are drained,
saving most of the liquid. Onions and garlic are prepared as for cucum-
bers. To about 2 cups of the juice, add one cup of cider vinegar. A
couple of tablespoons of salt, and one of sugar (may be brown) are
CHAPTER FOUR
tossed into this juice. A little pickling spice may be added; at least a
dozen or so whole cloves. The liquid is poured over the beets, and Chili, Curries, Spaghetti Sauces ... and
they are put away for a day or so. These too, are simply drained and
served on crisp, cool lettuce, with possibly a minor sprinkle of green
chopped parsley. Very pretty; very tasty.
other Blood Tinglers
FAVORITE SALAD
A great many men prefer - as a salad - just plain sliced tomatoes.
Some like' em with dressing, almost any kind; others want to sprinkle
a little sugar and vinegar on them. The tomatoes must be firm, ripe, Chili
Curry
cold, and in nice thick slices. plain rice
saffron rice
FRUIT SALAD
lamb curry
As a fitting finale to this chapter, let chicken curry
us spare a few kind words for the Fruit shrimp curry
garnishes
Salad. (Oh! Behave, Gussie!) Spaghetti Sauces
At Happy House we use both fresh Italian Meat Sauces
and canned fruits; first dumping the meat sauces
canned - with all the can juice - into a meatless sauces
large bowl; then the cut-up apples,
orange, banana, melon, or whatever. We
add a good cup of heavy sherry (wine!)
and put it all in the icebox to chill for
an hour or so. With a slotted spoon (so
we get no juice, see), we spoon it out
onto lettuce cups, and pour a little
honey mayonnaise over it. Then, if we
feel really gay, we garnish with a few
mint leaves, a large fresh strawberry,
or even a cherry! It's swell!
HONEY MAYONNAISE
1 cup mayonnaise (or 'type')
2/3 cup honey
Good squeeze of lemon juice
Mad on a fruit salad. What do we do with the leftover juice and
sherry? Why, we bake a ham in it, silly boy!
This seems to cover the salad bit; with these ideas you can take it
from here. Try and remember, the simpler the salad, the better .
.)

32
33
 FOUR
.,.·:··:··:··:-+·:.·:••:··:·.:-·:··:-++tOt·:.('··:••:··:··:..:··:··:··:•• <••:••:-.:-.:••:-.).:..:••).:.-t.: ••:-(.<-.:••:-<-<-++-:.++.:..:.*++++

Having waded through fields of greenery, dressed and undressed,

let's get back to some dishes that, like soup and salad, may be served
as a single one-dish meal or as a snack (before retiring, we like to
think). Fortunately, there are several items that fallfnto this classifi-
cation that will even tend to rouse the beast because of their hot and
spicy nature. (We've always admired a hot and spicy nature!) Among
these treasured little 'heart-warmers and bottom-burners' we have
chili, curry, and good Italian sauces for pasta.

CHILI
Most practical of these is Chili, the pride of Texas, where they
breed nothing but Longhorns on this type diet (it says). Yes, my
dears, good, PROPERLY prepared chili will put sunshine in the smile,
hair on the chest, and vitamins where necessary. MEN like Chili!
Happily, Chili is comparatively inexpensive and is truly very easy
to make. But you just can't dash off a batch in a few minutes; the real
item takes planning. We cook Chili for 6 to 10 hours. Frankly, when
the delicious aromas of the cooking Texas Delight drift out from
Happy House, Tomcats from far and wide congregate and yowl about
35
the premises. (This isn't a camp, dearie; the herbs, oregano, and
meat, broken up. After a while (while we're chopping the onions,
cumino are something like catnip, and the dumb cats just gather
'roundl ) celery, and garlic like mad!), we fling in the rest of the meat; stir it all
together, and raise the fire a bit. Our ohject now is to brown the meat
This long cooking gives a complete blending of all the many flavors
in the pot (quiet, over there!). We now have the vegetables chopped;
of the meats and seasonings, and makes for some real fine eating,
also ready are the tomatoes which we've dumped out of the cans into
eventually. Also, you'll need a large and heavy, or heavy-bottomed
another pot and squished up with out hands. In a pretty large bowl
pot to cook the Chili in; best is a cast-iron Dutch oven, but whatever,
or basin, we mix together the salt, sugar, paprika, and chili powder,
it must be big and heavy. Otherwise there's a good chance of
the cloves, cuminos, and cayenne (if used). In the corner of an old
scorching. There is another advantage in cooking up a batch of Chili:
towel or rag, we put the li'l hot chili peppers (if used instead of the
properly made and properly stored (not frozen) the Chili will keep
Cayenne), the Bay leaf, coriander and mustard (if these are used).
indefinitely, and will only need heating up to serve. So let's get on
Folding into a bag, we pound it a while with the back of a knife or
the or frilly apron and we'll cook us up a mess 0' Chili. We need, for
6 or 7 pints: a heavy cleaver, making a coarse powder; this we add to the chili
powder and other spices. Then, after mixing these together, we
3 lbs. beef (ask the butch for 'chili grind') crumble in our hands the dried oregano and basil leaves, and stir
!j lb. bulk pork sausage. them into the spices, too.
1 cup chopped celery, medium fine About here we find that our stirred together meat is browning
4 medium onions, chopped medium fine nicely, so we add the onions, celery, garlic; stir this all together, then
1 (whole) fresh garlic, separated, peeled, chopped fine flip a cover on the pot. Cook over a medium heat for about five min-
2 No.3 cans tomatoes - standard pack utes, or until the vegetables soften up a bit. Now we stir in all those
2 rounded tbsp. salt spices (Yes! They'll seem like a helluva lot) and mix everything
2 rounded tbsp. sugar together thoroughly. Again raise the heat a little. Let the stuff almost
4 oz. OR 2 small cans ooorika scorch dry, but not quite. After about 10 minutes of this nonsense,
4 to 6 oz. OR 2 or 3 small cans Chili powder. (Note: also sold in stir in the tomatoes and about one-third of the stock (or consomme
bags in some markets, often 'hot' orlmild', Take your choice or and water). Let the stuff come almost to a boil, then reduce to medium
use half and half). low. Skim away any scum off the surface. Note the time; your chili
2 oz. (large handful) whole dried oregano leaves should now simmer - with slow light bubbling - for from 6 to 10
4 oz. OR 2 small cans ground cuminos 01' cumin hours, from this time.
!; tsp. ground cloves Have a suitable cover for the big pot; put a long-handled spoon in
10 -15 small whole hot Chili peppers (chilis tepenos) OR 1 to 2 the pot; a wooden one is best. This will keep the cover from fitting
tsp, ground Cayenne pepper (hot stuff!) tightly over the cooking chili, and will allow a little steam to escape.
1 oz. whole Sweet Basil leaves (dried) Also, it is said, the spoon in the pot will help prevent any scorching.
2 Bay Leaves And there it is. Give the chili a good stir every hour or so. Keep the
2 tbsp. (optional) whole Coriander seed rest of the stock just warm in another pot. (You may not have windows
1 t bsp. (optional) whole Mustard seed in your kitchen, Bessie, but you'd certainly better have lottsa pots!)
3 tbsp. flour Add some of this stock as the chili cooks down, but save about a pint
3 cans Campbell's Bouillon or Consomme plus water to make 2 to for the Grand Finale. Do NOT attempt to cook beans - or anything
2!; quarts else-in the unfinished chili; save all that for later as we shall here.
Paraffin (household wax) After about 3 - 4 hours of this, you'll find that quite a lot of grease
6 to 8 clean glass jars has come to the surface of the chili; carefully skim this off and strain
it through a strainer into a small container (like one of the empty
tomato cans). There will be quite a lot of this, maybe even a pint.
So, Ladies (and others), let's get with it. First, we put our big After the chili has simmered 5 - 6 hours, we 'thicken' or 'bind' it. In
heavy-bottomed pot on the fire (medium) and toss in the pork sausage other words, we fix it so that the juices and meat will not separate,
but all will be a smoothly coherent thick sauce. And here's how this
36
37
 is done: In a small pot (another!) we heat up about a half cup of the part of the cupboard, though we keep ours in the bottom of the
strained grease that we took from the cooking chili; we add the flour icebox. It will keep almost indefinitely; though once a jar is opened,
and stir it together thoroughly. (No lumps there, Griselda!). As you it should all be used; do not try to re-seal it.
stir, keeping it over a medium heat, it will thicken into a rather heavy To serve, heat the chili slowly in a pot over medium heat; or better
paste. (This flour-fat bit is called a raux, and this is the standard yet, over water in a double boiler. You have here delicious "straight
thickening process for all sauces). Gradually work in that last pint of chili." (This recipe is pretty straight, too'). With a little care and an
the hot stock, continue to stir and it will continue to thicken. Now drop eye for detail it can often be made into a perfectly delicious dish. The
your strainer (that wire thing, with the handle) directly on to the chili can be served simply with lots of crackers, or with beans. Canned
surface of the cooking chili; quickly it will fill with liquid from the red kidney beans seem most suitable. These are heated separately in
stew. Ladle some of this out and add it to the thickening raux, using their own can juices, then drained and added to the hot chili. Chili
perhaps another pint or so. Stir up all this fat-flour-stock-juice in the goes well with plain spaghetti or macaroni, or over some heated canned
small pot, then pour it through the strainer directly into the chili. tamales, 'n stuff like that. When you have it on hand, it's no trick at
Then, with the long-handled spoon, mix the thickened chili together all to set it before a guest; the trick being to get the guest!
thoroughly. Reduce heat under the chili to very low, as the flour now This is a very detailed recipe, and one of our favorites. It is actually
in it will bum easily. Stir the mixture well every 10 minutes or so, for very easy to do, quite inexpensive for what you get out of it. At Happy
another hour. The chili is now ready; if it is too thick, we can add a House we are fond of our chili and know that it is the BEST thing to
little more stock or even water or tomato juice or whatever, stirring have in the pantry in the way of a quick snack. Also, it goes very well
it in thoroughly, and being sure that the added liquid is hot when with cold beer. It is hearty MAN food.
added to the pot. A small sampling will tell you whether or not you CURRY
may need a little more salt. Okay? Turn off the heat and let it sit there
while you get the jars ready to put it in. Now, this curry bit is something else again, but Gawd, is it ever
In another big pan or pot (whoops! here we go again) we bring elegant! Okay, so you want to entertain a bit and you think that this
three or four inches of water to a boil. In still another small pot or time you can afford to go all out - be real jazzy! Needless to say, you
saucepan of water, we put one of the empty, washed-clean tomato want to do something different. (Who doesn't, from time to time?)
cans. (That other one that still has some grease init you can throw So, there's this curry. This can be lots of work (no, Mildred, you can't
away). In this one we put about half a buy 'em in a can), but most of the work of preparation can be done
package (2 slabs) of our Paraffin, that well in advance, so that actually all you have to do when time comes
has been broken up. Into the large pan __ for Chow Down is to heat the stuff up, slip it into some elegant dishes,
of boiling water we put - 2 or 3 at a and load that extended buffet table.
time - the clean glass jars. (Get all that And let us say here, curry is the ideal buffet or "help y'self" meal.
old tired peanut butter out of 'em, Suppose you plan on service for 12. Let's consider just how elegant
May! ), and let them boil a minute. This this can be. Hold your breath ...
will NOT tenderize the jars, but will In the center of your long table you could have 3 to 5 (see further
make them bacteria-free. text) chafing dishes, though the same number of large bowls (about
Fish a jar out; drain it but don't dry it; fill it at once with the hot 2 qt.) sitting on one of those hot tray things, would do nicely. Sur-
chili. Fill all the jars quickly to about :I; of an inch from the top. Pour rounding these are at least 12 small bowls or dishes; we have in mind
about ~~of an inch of the melted wax over the top of the hot chili in how grand those silver shells would look. These are a sort of standard
the jars. It is best to set all the jars on some sort of rack to cool; the scallop shape - in real silver or plate - and each is about 6 inches in
rack can be taken from the oven for this. At least 3 hours later, when diameter. Any set of small bowls or dishes, holding about a cupful
the chili is definitely cold, we do the waxmelting bit again (same can, each, would do. If service is all to be of porcelain or china, a set of
same water, in same pot, more wax). This time we pour about a half Japanese bowls and dishes would be interesting. Large service plates
inch right on top of the first layer of wax; let this cool a half hour or and a supply of dinner forks will also grace the fine damask cloth,
so to set it. Then the covers, if any, may be put on to the jars, though with napkins to match the linen, of course. At each side of this center
they are really not necessary. The chili may now be kept in any cool grouping, you will have at least 2 large wine coolers or buckets. If

38 39
 these are in ornate silver to match chafing dishes, shells, etc., the wash the rice thoroughly 12 times in cold water, draining off each
'spread' will be really exciting. rinse carefully. This washes away all the loose flour that would make
If Champagne would be just "too much," a well-chilled dry white the rice icky and gummy, leaving it clean-grained and fluffy when
California wine would do well; we could suggest a Wente Reisling or .cooked. After draining oft the last water, we add enough cold water to
an Almaden Traminer. And, of course, flanking the wine containers just cover the rice by a scant inch. In the Orient they measure the
will be a supply of suitable glasses. In this case, best would be a water over the top of the rice by the width of a thumb. A quick shake
medium champagne saucer, or a tulip champagne glass for any of of salt may be added; the pot is covered - tightly - by laying a small
these wines. Also, there should be a large silver, glass, or crystal salad plate over the top and weighing this down with a flatiron, or an old
bowl on the table somewhere. can of beans, or whatever. The covered pot is put on the stove over a
Yes, my dears, real 'chi-chi,' and with the Curry, it should be a moderately brisk flame for 4 to 5 minutes, by which time it should be
dazzling buffet spread. But someone is bound to ask, "Who in hell has at a boil. DON'T LOOK, simply reduce the flame, shaking the pot a
all that silver and crystal and stuff?" Well, May, almost nobody. But little; but don't loosen the cover. Continue to cook for 15 to 20 minutes,
you can rent it; in fact you can also rent the less expensive alternatives gradually reduce the flame to low. Leave it at this for an added 5
we've suggested, including linens and glasses. However, even this minutes. Still uncovered, the cooked rice may be kept warm in a very
won't be cheap! But it'll sure look grand and gay. low (150-175°) oven, or you can set the pot in a pan of warm water
Now after standing back and admiring all these mad service dishes, until ready to serve it. But DO NOT UNCOVER THE COOKED
what the hell goes into all of 'em? We're gonna have two kinds of rice RICE UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO DISH IT UP. Result will be
in two of the big bowls, or chafing dishes, and three kinds of curry in perfectly cooked rice. Of course what must be obvious to even the
the other. That is if we decide to go whole hog and use all five. less brilliant is that the steam in the tightly covered pot is what cooks
"And what about that dozen little dinky bowls or shells?" the rice and fluffs it. If you let out this steam, the result can be a
Patience, Ermintrude. Those will contain the absolutely mad soggy dish - and as you know, a soggy dish is never tasty.
assortment of little "things" without which curry is never properly
served.
"Well, why two kinds of rice and three kinds of curry?"
SAFFRON RICE
Good grief, Bessie. "All right, already." If ya just want curry and
rice, you just have two of the bowls, one for each. And will some of
you hecklers close the port hole and let Mother get on with this thing. In the Orient, where Ryjstafel is most often served in all its glory-
Going along with our original mood of elegance (and the hell with (yes, Winnie Mae, that's what our Curry buffet dinner is called in
you doubters) we decide that we'll have two kinds of rice: plain and international culinary circles) -it is customary to serve more than one
saffron, and three kinds of curry: Chicken, Lamb and Shrimp. Without kind of rice; most often a second will be pungent Saffron Rice. For this
further ado, let's get at them. we use the same cooking method, with one minor addition. After we
have washed our rice, or while we are doing this, we bring a cup or so
of water to a boil. Into it we stir a rounded teaspoon of MSG (as most
PLAIN RICE of you know by now, this is mono-sodium-glutamate), )~teaspoon salt
There are innumerable methods of rice cookery; if you already use and one lightly rounded teaspoon of powdered or shredded saffron.
a satisfactory one that gives a fluffy, separated, cooked grain, do it Let this boil up, reduce the fire to almost nothing and simmer 3
that way. This is the simple method most used in the Orient. Use a to 5 minutes 'til the water is a violent yellow. Pour this yellow water
'long-grain' rice to start with, sometimes called Patna or Blue Rose. through a hair-strainer or through the corner of a cloth into a cup.
Do NOT use converted, inverted (or even perverted) rice, or any When your rice is washed and drained for the last time, pour this
"processed" rice. A scant cup of raw rice will amply serve three. We'll yellow water on to it, quickly adding enough clear cold water to bring
use H4 cups for 6, and so on. Using a pot with a heavy bottom and a the level an inch over the rice. Cover tightly and proceed as with
tightly fitting lid, and large enough so that the rice will be able to plain rice (see above). Saffron rice tastes altogether different and
cook in water and expand to 3 or 4 times in bulk, we dump the raw many people like it a lot.
rice into the pot. Then (and this is the secret of the whole process), we When finally dishing out the cooked rice - and we don't serve it

40 41
 until the last moment - as all Oriental cooks do, we dish it out of the THE CHICKEN
pot and into the bowls, with a wooden spoon or fork. They say that We get a 4-5 lb. stewing hen; put it into a pot of water- (it may be
metal makes cooked rice soggy. Why? Oh hell girl, I don't know cut in half or quartered if your pot isn't too big)-bring it to a boil,
why; it just does. Go get y'self a coupla sets of large wooden forks then reduce to a simmer. Cook 'til the meat is tender. Then carefully
and spoons to put into the rice bowls. remove all the meat from the bones, and in as large pieces as possible.
So there's our two bowls of rice. (Easy, wasn't it?) Now for the Remove the skin and fat, and chop this very fine. Cut the chicken meat
curry ... into large dice (like the lamb) and add it to the chopped skin; mix
First, let's answer that question ... just what is curry? Actually, together lightly. Put the bones back in the chicken broth and simmer
not all of us in the Western World are familiar with this often spicy awhile longer; this makes the stock for the chicken curry.
preparation; we hardly realize that curry is a main component or
seasoning of a great part of the foods of the East; this would include
THE SHRIMP
most of Southeast Asia, India, and so on.
Curry itself is a powder made of ground vegetable spices; a curry We get about 3-4Ibs. of raw, uncooked shrimp (size '31-42' is best
may contain from 6 to 16 - or more - different spices. Cloves, ground for this); rinse 'em in cold water thoroughly; put into a pot of cold
nutmeg, cinnamon are some of these; less known to us are fenugreek, water to just more than cover them, and bring slowly to a boil. When
tumeric, cassia, and others. Like our own chili powder which is also the shrimp are all pink, after boiling no more than 10 minutes, drain
composed of several spices, curry will usually have a hot ingredient them, but save the liquid. Then you have to peel the shrimp, and put
such as Cayenne pepper, or something similar. This may vary in the shells back into the water they were cooked in. Let this simmer
proportion, to make a mild curry or a very hot one. Curry is most awhile, too; it is the stock for the shrimp curry.
often worked into a sauce or gravy, and then into this are incorporated With your Maybelline brush-or under running water, remove the
the vegetables, fish, fruits, or meats as desired. vein from the back of the shrimp. Rinse again in a colander or sieve.
Well, Maude, that's about enough of that pitch; let's get on with Cut the larger shrimp in half. Hold these 'til needed in a container of
our cookin'. But first, we've gotta decide whether we are gonna make cold water or in the 'fridge if they are to be kept for any length of time.
a lamb curry, or a chicken curry, or a shrimp curry-to name three To use the shrimp stock, bring it to a boil and strain it through a cloth.
most popular. What? All three! Well, okay, we'll make about 4 or 5 (It'll probably have sand in it, and we certainly don't want that!).
portions of each, which will not only nicely fill those other three big So now we have ready the three meats, and three stocks, with which
bowls, but each one will go well with either of our two kinds of rice. to put together our three curries. Obviously most of this had better be
So what do we need? Let's first - like a good chef - do a little done some time beforehand-like yesterday. Now we make the Sauce.
figuring. Whatever the meat will be, we'll need about a cupful of it
for each generous portion; so, to make four portions of lamb (or
chicken or shrimp) curry, we'll need about 4 cups of cooked lamb
(or chicken, or shrimp) all ready-cooked. THE SAUCE
You can use any left-over roast lamb. Or even easier, you buy For each cup of meat we'll need about 1 cup of fairly heavy curry
about 2 or 3 lbs. of very lean lamb for stew; or buy an inexpensive sauce; or-as we have about 12 cups of these 'meats' in all, we'll need
leg of lamb. After cutting a couple of nice steaks out of the center of 11 or 12 cups of the sauce. Many recipes tell you to use canned mush-
this (your butcher will do this for you, or you need another butcher! ), room soup (condensed) for the base of the sauce. We sort of jazz this
you cut the rest of the lamb from the bones, trim away almost all the around a little to make our rich curry sauce. To 5 cans of the condensed
fat and then cut the meat into 1 inch cuhes. Set it aside. Take the skin, soup we add enough rich milk to make 10 cups (2~ qts.). Mix this
bones and a very little of the carrot trimmings; boil these, then simmer together, heat slowly-do not allow to boil-and do not scorch, (it will,
for an hour or so. In another pan, just cover the lamb cubes with cold easily! ); keep warm to one side. .
water; bring to a boil; throw this water away. Cover again with fresh After a suitable coffee-break (Maude, layoff that cookin' sherry),
cold water, bring to a near boil; reduce heat to simmer, and stew this we get to the final steps in putting our curries together. (And it's about
lamb 'til tender. This will take just a little over an hour. Drain the time!) We will end up here with about 12 or more cups of curry sauce,
liquid from the stock later when assembling the curry. which we'll then divide into three parts-one for each curry. See?
42 43
 We prepare 2 cups of sliced celery, sliced thinly crosswise Well, ladies! We now have our three curries made, with 4 or 5
2 or 3 cups of fresh crisp apple in small dice generous portions of each. We either keep them warm 'til serving, or,
2 bunches green onions, chopped medium fine, as much green as as noted, make them perhaps the day ahead, then reheat them care-
white fully. To repeat, curries must be served piping hot, but heat carefully
as they can scorch. It is not advisable to prepare the rice too far in
Put these into a heavy bottomed pot with a little plain oil; cover, and
advance; better to do this while the curries are reheating.
let cook about 10 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. Then add: Just remember: to serve one person-generously-you'll need one
is lb. Of a stick) of butter; as it melts, stir into the vegetables 6 to 8 cup of whatever meat, 1 cup of finished curry sauce, and one cup of
rounded Tbs. of any good curry powder; 1 level tsp. of powdered saf-
cooked rice (i~ cup raw rice).
fron, 1 level tsp. of Cayenne pepper (or 2 tsp. of white pepper). Add Now we get to the cutest part of this curry binge: the little side
2 tsp. salt; 2 tsp. sugar. Shake this all together so that the vegetables dishes of THINGS that are always served with curry. Often as many
become coated; pour the warmed mushroom-cream sauce into this.
as 24 varieties accompany the curry; these are some:
Mix together and let pot sit over very low heat to keep warm at least
half an.hour, stirring occasionally. This 'sauce' should be quite thick; chopped (and squeezed out) onion
we'll cut it down a little later with the stocks. It should be bright chopped crisp-cooked bacon
yellow. More pepper, salt, or curry powder may be stirred in to taste. shredded fried eggs
Don't overdo the curry-it can become bitter if too much is used. raisins
In a smaller pan, heat the cooked lamb pieces in just enough of the currants
lamb stock to cover them. Stir in a very little crumbled oregano leaves peanuts (Spanish)
(about if tsp.). Then stir in one third of the heavy curry sauce. Mix Bombay Duck (ya buy it)
and taste; the bland lamb may need a bit more salt. There's your Lamb Chutney (bottled-at least 2 kinds)
Curry. Set it aside to keep warm until serving. All the curries may be shredded, browned cocoanut
made well ahead and then carefully reheated at the serving time. All capers
curries must be served very hot. As they have both milk and butter in grated orange and lemon peel
them, they must be reheated carefully to prevent scorching; double very tiny pearl onions
boilers are recommended. If you have only one of these, try this: Heat tiny mustard pickles
one batch of curry in the double boiler, pour it out into a bowl,- chopped anchovies
then set the bowl into a 225 oven. It will keep thoroughly. Warm-for small dried shrimps
an hour or so. This may be repeated with the next batch of curry, and grated Romano cheese
so on. If a bowl of rice is covered with a folded wet cloth, it too will etc ....
keep hot until needed, in the same oven. If there is some of the lamb
stock left, save it; the curry may need further thinning or thickening.
In another pot (all right, Bessie, just wash that last one ... ) put the Also, with your elegant and complete Curry service, you'll need
diced chicken with enough of the chicken stock to cover. Pour in one one or two bottles or cruets of good Soy Sauce (Kikkoman is best
half of the remaining curry sauce, a very little grated orange rind may obtainable; many are very poor); and a large bowl of a tossed green
be added here for an accent. Many cooks add sliced bananas, pine- salad, with a light French dressing. That would seem to take care of
apple tidbits, cocoanuts, n' stuff like that; makes a real jazzy Polyne- Curry, but will beautifully fill that gorgeous buffet table.
sian-type curry. Whatever, it's a very tasty and delectable Chicken
Curry. Set this aside for use, or for reheating as we did with the Lamb. SPAGHETTI SAUCES
We heat the shrimp in some of the shrimp stock, and (guess what? ) Among professional-and even with talented amateur cooks-it is
we then dump it into the remaining third of the curry sauce. We can well known that every Italian not more than two generations removed
add a little diced canned pimiento and grate in a little lemon rind. We from the old country is firmly convinced that he is a Master Chef, and
thin this to a proper consistency, if necessary, with some of the shrimp that he alone can prepare the only true and original REAL Italian
stock, and there we have our Shrimp Curry.

44 45
 some certain things can be made and served by using a canned sauce
sauce for Spaghetti and other pastas. Of
as a base (Chapter 9), but most of them are just "adequate"; many are
course, he can probably concoct a sauce
just plain poor. But no killjoy us. If you can find what you want in a
of sorts-even a good one-because that
can-buy it! And sharpen up your opener!
is more or less the way his Mother did
To get back, we'll repeat that the real secret of all sauce cooking
it; here, one must realize that Italy is a
is long, slow simmering to blend the contained flavors to the best
very large country and that every pro-
advantage. A heavy iron "Dutch Oven" type of pot is best for this.
vince, every district, every city, town,
plan to allow a minimum of 4 hours cooking time.
and village, has its own interpretation of
what is just right. To say the very least,
IT ALlAN MEAT SAUCE
this makes for many fine sauces using
many different ingredients. Peculiarly, Suppose (Hnallyl ) that we've decided to make some Italian Meat
the one thing that our modem Italian Sauce, and have wisely planned to make 3 qts, or even a gallon of the
cooks seem to have forgotten is that stuff so that we'll always have some ready to use, in the icebox. We'll
Mother cooked it slowly for many hours need some fresh vegetables, canned tomato or tomato products, some
to blend the savors and flavors of what- meat, and some seasonings. Let's try it with:
ever was in it. There is no modem sub-
stitute for long, slow cooking. However, in this busy world, we do 1 cup chopped celery
the best we can ... 3 cups chopped onions
Here we can make a very campy suggestion: why not just find ~ cup (or more) chopped garlic
a foot-loose Italian for your weekend house guest and turn him loose ~ cup (opt.) grated carrot
in the kitchenette. It's an idea. 1 cup chopped Leeks (opt.)
Of course, you might drag in one of those mad characters with ideas n~-2 cups chopped green pepper
about proper Italian tomatoes, dried Italian mushrooms, fresh fen- 1 box fresh Mushrooms (opt.) sliced
nochio, all of which would have to be run down and would cost like 2-#3 cans-standard tomatoes
hell. This sort of thing obviously wouldn't make sense, as the person 2-#3 cans tomato puree
for whom we are writing this mad book has to have an eye on "what H-2 quarts stock or water
the damned thing costs, over-all-wise." And we may have just "shot ~ cup mixed Italian herbs (see text)
our wad" on a complete Curry binge. 1 doz. chilis tepenos
Anyway, we feel that we just want a reasonably inexpensive dish salt, pepper, oil, flour, MSG
of spaghetti, so perhaps we'll forego the visiting Italian, and "do it 1 can sliced mushrooms (opt.)
ourself." Sort of a plain sewing bit as it were ... 2lbs. (good) ground meat (or more)
It may be said that there are two basic types of Italian Sauce: one 3 cans consomme
with meat and one without. More truly, there are as many variations
First, the fresh vegetables. These are all chopped moderately fine.
on the 'salsa' theme as there are Italian communities; in some districts
The leek-of which you use all of the white part, very little of the green,
they use a certain kind of tomato exclusively; in-another part of Italy,
none of the hard core-is optional; it doesn't add much, but it is a
they prefer another type. of pomedoro, those big pear shaped ones
thickener of a sort. The carrot is also optional; it may tend to make the
we've heard so much about. In some parts of the "boot" it's strictly
sauce 'sweetish'; we don't use it. The box-or basket-of fresh mush-
"no tomato"; it's a big country and there are untold variations. But our
rooms will cost about .75 to $1.00; a cupful of dried Italian mushrooms
American idea of an Italian sauce is pretty standard, so let's take it
could cost about $2.00. We like mushrooms in our sauce, so we use
from there.
both fresh and canned. Now, the tomato. We prefer to use two No.3
Someone- (there's always one of these) -will wonder why we just
cans of the standard pack tomatoes (about 3 pts.), plus an equal
don't buy a can of the stuff. Everything comes in cans these days!
amount of medium heavy puree, which makes about 3 quarts in all,
(Well, Violetta, not quite everything, fortunately!). But, it is an idea.
of tomato. Many cooks prefer to use tomato paste diluted with water
There are many, many very fine canned products; but for some reason,
canned sauces of almost every kind seem to be lacking in something; 47
46
 or stock; as we also use about 1J~qts. of stock or water in addition to tion must be, "what kind of meat?" Almost any kind will do. Freshly
the tomatoes. We think our way is best. Then there are some mad ground beef or pork is usually used; many restaurants use up scraps
characters who scream for fresh tomatoes. These have to be peeled of roast meats, such as ham, pork, beef, turkey, etc., as part of the
and chopped; we say 'N'yahl - sauce meat, the balance being fresh. With a large part of ham used,
For this "stock" we were yakking about just above, you also have the sauce might be called a Sauce Milanaise; with heavier and richer
a choice. Starting, the day before, you can get a bunch of tired old roast meats, it becomes a Sauce Bolognese. Old, tired bologna butts,
beef bones from your butcher. Simmer these down with some vege- IUI)ch meat ends, even Spam can all be included with some fresh meat
tables and water to make clear broth. We do it the easy way; we use in a meat sauce; pieces of roasted meat will give a good flavor and
3 cans of canned consomme or bouillon and add enough water to these color. All these bits and pieces should be put through a fairly coarse
to make our 3 pt. of "stock." This is added at once to the tomato. grinder, or chopped. -
While we're with this canned goods bit, let's have a word more We know a somewhat mad belle who is known for her (among
about the mushrooms. If we don't use the fresh mushrooms (as too other things) wonderful meat sauce; she. uses about ~ horsemeat!
expensive) we do use a small to medium can of sliced or even stems (What's that, Mary? Where does she get ~ horse? Oh, you!) Actually
and pieces. These, with all the can liquid, are added during the last perfectly edible and sanitary horsemeat is sold in some very large mar-
hour of cooking. kets, and it's cheap, too. In fact, horsemeat is much used in France and
. Then, there's this seasoning. If you happen to have a herb and spice Italy; many popular sausages, including the original Bologna, morta-
shelf, with all these goodies, by all means use 'em. If not, buy a couple della, and others are made of it.
of ounces of "Italian Herbs," which is a blend and is available in almost As this seems to cover the ingredients, let's make it!
any market. We use about a )~cup of the combined herbs, or: 2 bay
leaves, crumbled; 2 tbs. sweet Basil; 2 tsp. oregano leaves; 2 tsp. Rose-
mary leaves; 2 good pinches Tarragon in the palm of your hand, and
mix together. MEAT SAUCE
Also, in the comer of a cloth, we put 6 whole cloves and 10-12 chilis We put some fat or oil in our heavy pot and fling in the fresh
teperros. We tie this into a ball, pound it a couple of whacks with the vegetables. Cook covered for a few minutes, then add the prepared
back of a heavy cleaver or knife-to break up the spices-and add it to vegetables. Cook covered for a few minutes, then add the meats. Stir
the pot, still tied up in the rag. After a couple of hours of cooking, we it all together; cook at least until any fresh meat is browned. Then we
fish this thing out of the sauce and discard it. (The rag and spices, not add our tomatoes, salt, sugar, herbs, our bag of cloves and peppers,
the sauce, silly.) If, as we fiinish the sauce, it seems to lack in salt or and bring it all slowly to a boil. Then we reduce the heat to a simmer,
pepper, these can be added. However, when we first put the goop on and cook for 3 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally. As we first reduce the
to cook, we do throw in a couple of teaspoons of salt, and the same of heat, we will skim away any scum or fat from the surface. Then-pos-
sugar. As we go into the last hour of cooking, a couple of tbs. of MSG sibly each hour-we will carefully skim the cooking sauce, and after
can be added; these will accent the flavor. skimming it, we will stir it thoroughly and carefully from the bottom.
We'll also need about )~cup of fat or oil. For meat sauce we like The grease that we skim away in the last skimming, we put through
bacon fat, (3 or L.l Tbs.); when the sauce has finished cooking, old a sieve; we have maybe a ~ cup of it. Mixing this with a J~ cup of flour,
country cooks stir in about the same amount of good olive oil; so do we. in a small pan over medium heat, we make a dryish paste or mash. Into
We use the flour, with none of the grease skimmed off the top of this we gradually work some of the liquid from the sauce. At this time
the pot and strained, for the final thickening (see Chili recipe). This -and this, mind you, is after we have simmered our sauce for at least
leaves us nothing to consider but the meat. three hours-we taste for seasoning. We add salt if necessary; the MSG,
Of course, if we make the sauce without any meat, we'll still have the canned mushroom, and continue to simmer for another hour, over
I
a very fine spaghetti sauce; in Italy a similar sauce (with the vege- very low heat. Finally we stir in about J~ cup of olive oil, and our meat
tables cut a little larger) is a Salsa Napolitana. It is also called a Mari- sauce is ready to put up in jars. (See "Chili' for this process). Properly
nara sauce; the inference is pretty obvious that it goes with fish-and jarred, and kept cool in the icebox, the sauce will keep indefinitely.
is' meatless. Damned clever these Italians! Our Italian Meat Sauce not only tastes fine with all the pastas (as
However, we are making a meat sauce tonight, and the next ques- spaghetti, Macaroni, rigatoni, fettucine, et al ... ) but is very tasty on
48 49
veal cutlets, over plain rice, and in many other ways.
This certainly covers (Gawd knows!) in considerable detail for
you who really 'don't cook', just what there is to do about Chili, Curry,
and Meat Sauce, three items which should be in almost everyone's
repertoire!
CHAPTER FIVE
<0>
The Shell Game ... Oysters, Lobsters,
Shrimps ... and what to do with Crabs

Newburg
Shrimp
Scallops
Deep-Fried
Tartare Sauce
Clams, Mussels, Abalone
'steam clams'
clams Bordelaise
Abalone saute Meuniere
saute Monterey-style
Oysters
Oyster Stew
Fried oysters
Breading
Crabs
St. Denis
Deviled
Chioppino
Cocktails
Cocktail Sauce
', . . that other kind'
Shrimp
Bayou Shrimp
Lobster
Broiled Lobster Tails
ala Mirabeau
Lobster Thermidor
clarified butter
Mornay Sauce
Lobster Diablo
gratinee

50

51
 FIVE
.:.,).:••:••:••:•.:.,:,e;'.).:.(••:•.:.(":••:••).:••:-).)'!••:.(••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:•.:••:••:••:••:••:..:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:.

In a brief look at shellfish, let's consider some of the more standard

dishes. Of course, these could include Curries made of the various
shellfish but we've already devoted a lot of time to Curry; somewhat
along this line are the Newburgs.

NEWBURG
Almost any bland shellfish (chicken, too) can be prepared a la
Newburg. This indicates that the item is served, on toast, often with
rice, in a Newburg Sauce. This is an old kitchen standard, and can
be either very good-or terrible. In large hotels and other Continental-
type kitchens it is often said, "The Newburg must taste like hazelnuts."
Some tyro will always simper, "And what do hazelnuts taste like?" The
inevitable smug answer is: "Like Newburg Sauce."
That takes care of that-or does it?) More realistically, Newburg
sauce is the quite simple elaboration of a basic heavy, rich white cream
sauce.
Let's put it this way: We want to make two portions of a SHRIMP
NEWBURG, so we have ready 2 cups of moderately rich, medium-
thick cream sauce. We have a large cup of cleaned and cooked shrimps

53
 (medium-sized to small) for each portion. We have on hand almost DEEP FRIED SCALLOPS
a cupful of heavy-bodied cooking Sherry; we also need a tsp. of dry
mustard; the same of paprika; a pinch of white pepper; and an 8th The procedure is almost the same as for frying shrimp and other
of a pound of butter. fresh fish. If the scallops are an inch thick, it is advisable to split them,
Using our usual heavy-bottomed pot or pan, (we hate to always making two rounds, each half an inch thick. Also, this seems to add to
be harping on this "heavy" equipment, but thin vessels will invar- the size of the portion served. Besides, scallops, like abalone, do not
iably bum or scorch the items cooked, particularly where butter, take to excessive cooking; they should actually be little more than
milk, flour, etc. are used), we fling in the butter and let it just well heated through, with the breading nicely browned. Flour, then
melt over medium heat. We add the shrimps tossing them in the milk and egg, then crackercrumbs, etc. is best, though some cooks use
butter for about 3 minutes; sprinkle in the mustard, paprika, some cornmeal, or prepared breadings.
pepper; let these cook-tossing all together-for about 5 more The hot fat for the frying should be almost smoking. Too cool grease
minutes. Here comes one of the sticky parts: We raise the flame will be absorbed by the breading, making the fried item 'greasy' rather
considerably, and swish in the Sherry. If we are using a skillet than crisp. Too hot grease will bum the breading before the content
or chicken-fryer, the wine will flame up and everything will be 'is cooked through, so watch that grease. A professional trick is to brown
"tres mad." This flame will die down almost at once, this is called quickly the scallops, (or other fried foods), then, take them from the
"flaming," or as the French put it so neatly a la flambe. After a fat, put them into a pan-such as a tin pie pan-and then into a medium
couple of minutes of this nonsense, we dump in the cream sauce. hot oven for 5 to 10 minutes. This will insure their being cooked
Stirring this all together with a wooden spoon, we find that we through and will not let the breading be too browned. (If there is
now have the shrimp in a nice, smooth, medium-thick cream anything we are against, it is things being too well browned in our
sauce, that is faintly pink and yellow. A little salt may be needed. kitchen). Ten to a dozen pieces of scallop are a generous portion; they
Then we taste it. Yep! That's hazelnuts, b'goshl It's also a very fine are best served with crisp French Fries, cole slaw, and always some
Shrimp Newburg; quick Mazie, make some toast! good, tart, Tartare Sauce.
If it is to be served within an hour or so, the Newburg should be
kept hot in a double boiler, over hot water; it may, however, be packed TARTARE SAUCE
away in glass (as our chili, curry, stews, other sauces) and when thor- Put into a bowl:
oughly cold can be put into the icebox to keep for quite awhile. Do not 1-1~cup mayonnaise (or mayonnaise type dressing)
freeze; when reheating go the double boiler route, heating the New- J§ cup minced onion (part of this may be green onion)
burg gradually. ~ cup drained India Relish
We may use lobster, crab, scallops, chicken, tuna, or turkey for a ~ cup minced sour pickle
Newburg. This is a bland dish; as a course or dinner entree, a nice 2 tsp. finely minced parsley
California dry white wine goes tastily with it. Try a Reisling, Traminer, iuice of 1 large lemon-or-2limes
Moselle, or Chablis. 1 tsp. grated rind of above (opt.)
Stir this all together; chill for at least an hour before using. Will
keep indefinitely; may be used as sandwich spread.
SCALLOPS
Among the smaller shellfish, many persons overlook the succulent CLAMS
scallop. With scallop fanciers, however, some enthusiasts like best the MUSSELS
small bay scallops; others prefer the much larger and rougher deep-sea
scallops. For delicate creamed dishes, such as Newburgs, au gratins, ABALONE
deviled, the classic Coquilles St. Jaques, etc., the smaller scallops are It only seems right, as long as we are dallying with these shellfish
preferable. It is considered that the larger ones-often larger than a delights, that we give some very minor attention to Clams, Mussels,
silver dollar and sometimes an inch thick-are most suitable for deep- Abalone, and the like. The very best thing about Clams is the juice.
frying. This is the most customary service. Canned or bottled Clam Juice (or Broth) is available in the markets;
54 55
 to near boil about a pint of bottled or canned Clam Juice.
and the gossip goin' 'round among certain groups is to the effect that Put a fresh loaf of French Bread into a 400 oven for about 10 min-
the stuff is a definite arouser. This, along with the pungent reputation utes, to be taken out as the clams are done. The bread is cut in thick
of fresh oysters, mayor may not be true. It is even quite possible that chunks and is served under a folded napkin or towel, to keep it warm.
the belief in the rumor itself, does to an extent, give these items a The melted butter is poured off into a couple of cups or bowls, one for
certain aphrodisiac quality. After all, someone has said, glibly, "... it's each serving. Carefully the liquor from the pot the clams are in is
all in the mind, dearie." This statement itself, while interesting, is not poured out into a container; the heated clam juice is added to it. This
completely true either. (Sometimes a girl just don't know what to is in turn divided into two large cups or mugs. Each small cup or bowl
believe. ) of the melted butter is set in the center of a large service plate or
Back to Clams ... it is easily conceivable that a tasty bit of steamed platter, surrounded by the now-open clams in their shells. The mugs
clams may well jolly up a guest; it is even very possible that, after of hot broth are served alongside. Keep the warmed bread handy. A
slurping his way through a dozen or so Cherrystones, the hairs of his small 'oyster fork' comes in handy here, to dig the little things out of
chest will begin to curl and uncurl, and the Gentleman Caller (to the shells. The actual eating is very informal.
borrow a phrase from Diamond r.n and other madames) will become Clams are also served breaded and fried; in fact, you can buy 'em
a frequent visitor. If it works, Bess, more power to you; let us know already breaded, even pre-cooked. We personally think they're tougher
and we'll all rush down to the fish market. this way. Steamed Clams, with their succulent meat and sexy broth, are
Really the easiest of all Clam preparations a better deal.
is this plain or steamed clams. Being what we
are, we'll also try a somewhat fancier version. MUSSELS
First, you buy your clams, and this requires These are very seldom eaten in this country (why in hell bring
something of an eye. In most large fish markets them up, thenl ): fresh mussels are sometimes gathered all along the
you'll find trays or even barrels of these little West Coast, (also on the North Atlantic Coast, a passing tourist informs
bivalves, usually packed loosely in ice. Inspect me), but they are "safe eating" only in certain areas and at certain
each clam. They must be tightly closed; seasons. Many are toxic or poisonous to many people, sometimes
if there is a suspicion of a crack between the lethally so; and so mussels are sparingly used (and no wonder! ). Good
shells, don't take that one; the juice has already (and safe) canned mussels are available for use in such few dishes as
leaked out. Also, smell 'em; if there is the least require them. With all the simply lovely seafood that is available,
'spoiled' or 'off-color' odor better pass' em all
and is oh, so tasty, let's just forget about mussels.
by for that day. Settle for lamb chops or some-
thing else.
If you do buy clams and get' em home, you ABALONE
first get out a big pot (not necessarily with a Another minor mention must go to abalone; this is a rare California
heavy bottom-so there! )-one that'll easily hold 4 dozen clams in delicacy and is very expensive. Our personal opinion is that abalone
their shells. Put a plate or a trivet (Oh, be still Bessie Mae! If you don't has, even when deftly prepared, all the fine flavor nuances of wet blot-
know what a trivet is, use a plate that fits in the bottom of the pot, ting paper. If, however, you do have some abalone steaks, there are
upside down) m the pot. Scrub each clam with a stiff brush, under two good ways to cook the stuf]. These steaks will be quite thin rounds
running cold water. Pile the clams into the pot on the plate or trivet; of the meat, about the size of saucers; if bought "prepared," they will
pour 2 - 3 cups of water or dry white wine, over them. The liquid have been pounded to break up the tissue. First, please bear in mind
doesn't have to cover the clams. With water they'll be plain 'steam that the more this slice of muscle is cooked the tougher it will be.
clams'; with wine they become Clams Bordelaise. Cover the pot tightly Dredge the things in seasoned flour; heat a little oil and butter (half
and put it on the fire over moderately high heat for 5 minutes. Reduce and half) in a skillet. When quite hot, slip in the abalone. Cook no
the heat slightly and continue steaming (yeah! That's what's happen- more than a minute on each side; take out and put on a hot plate.
ing inside there) the clams for another 15-20 minutes. During -this Squeeze a little lemon into the pan; toss in a little minced parsley.
cooking do not open the pot. In the meantime, melt 3~lb. butter slowly Swish this around the pan for a moment, then pour it all over the
in a small pot. This is best done over hot water. And in a 3rd pot, heat 57
56
abalone and serve at once. This is Abalone saute M euniere. rant, where professional chefs can and will turn out the Rockefellers,
Or, break a couple of eggs, beat them up lightly; dip the floured Casinos, Kirkpatricks, Loaves, and so on. However, if you are bound
abalone in them, covering the piece of fish thoroughly. Take it from and determined to do it y'self, at home and in your own little kitchen,
the egg and quickly into a hot skillet with a very little hot oil; fry a there are a lot of good standard cookbooks dealing with oysters.
minute on each side just to set the egg. This goes at once onto a hot If 'frying' is contemplated, (and this is not overly complicated)
plate for immediate service. Serve Tartare Sauce with this Abalone one may buy either raw oysters, (shelled and semi-frozen, usually in
Monterey-style. (We still think it's like nothing ... ) glass jars), or uncooked breaded oysters, or even semi-fried breaded
oysters. These last you just have to heat up. Again, our opinion is that
OYSTERS the more the things have been processed, the more tasteless they are
We'd much rather give honorable mention to oysters; if for no and the more expensive too. Ideally, fresh oysters bought on the wharf
other reason than because they have the reputation of "turning on" that you would open and dig out of the shell, would be most flavorful;
the character who eats 'em. (This is an oblique way of saying that next would be the shelled oysters in glass (usually dated, too) packed
oysters are believed to make one sexy and potent.) in their own natural juices. The pre-cooked oysters, requiring only
Like most shellfish, oysters can be served broiled, stewed, fried, heating, are pretty tame. We suggest you get the glass-packed oysters;
baked, creamed, sauced, and even raw. Canned or "fresh-frozen" oys- take 'em home and bread 'em yourself. (Don't keep these in the icebox
ters are handy to have on hand; a stimulating (you hope!) oyster stew for any length of time. Use them the day you buy 'em.)
is real tasty on a cold night. Besides, it's easy arid quick to make. And
that, Pauline, is the way we like it!

OYSTER STEW FRIED OYSTERS

Use a little less than a cupful of shelled oysters for a serving; as Briefly, the oysters are dipped in flour, then in a "wash" or "dip,"
oysters vary greatly in size, this could be two or twelve. You'll also (make this with 1 beaten egg, ~ cup milk, ~ cup water, plus the juices
need about 2 Tbs. of butter, a little pepper; a cup of half and half from the oysters.) Then dip them again in seasoned cracker crumbs. Or
(milk and cream sillyl ), and some crisp crackers. Melt the butter in one of the packaged "dips" (dry) inay be used; these are just seasoned
a small pan over medium low heat. (The idea is to heat the oysters cracker crumbs with a little paprika and cornmeal added. Some South-
through without actually cooking them too much.) So we put the ern folk bread with cornmeal only, after the flour and wash, and then
oysters into the melted butter and slosh them around for about 5 min- fry the oysters in bacon grease. These are often called Southern Fried
utes or until the edges begin to curl. While this goes -on, we bring the Oysters. If you-all like the way they do it in the deep Sour-this is
milk-or cream-to almost a boil (not quite! ), in a second pot or pan. undoubtedly fo' you ... (all).
When the oysters begin to bubble, and the milk is very hot, we pour If the breaded oysters are to be deep-fried, the, fat in your pot
the milk over the oysters; we swish a little white pepper over them. should be almost smoking. The oysters are put into the frying basket
Some rugged characters like to add Tabasco Sauce to the served stew. a few at a time and lowered away. As soon as they are light or golden
We pour the whole thing out into a heated bowl, and there you've got brown, they should be taken from the grease. Put them into a pie-pan
it made, you hope! An Oyster Stew, that is! or other dish, and into a 400 oven for about 5 minutes. This will cook
There's a lot to be said, psychologically, (if you go for that kind of the oysters through without burning up the breading.
jazz) for oyster stews; maybe it really is a "friend in need indeed," or If they are to be pan-fried (or sauteed) use about 1 quart of butter
perhaps the customer just thinks so. Oh, hell, Gertrude, give it a try. to 2 parts oil in the pan (or use bacon grease), and not too much fat
There are, of course, hundreds of standard oyster dishes; real gour- in any case; just enough to cover the bottom of the pan. Fry the
mets don't even need 'em cooked, they can get absolutely ecstatic breaded oysters quickly to an even light brown; turn them over and
about "shell oysters," glibly citing "beds," "seasons," ... and so on. do the other side. Serve at once on a hot platter; oysters are served
We'll deliberately pause here and make a really sensible suggestion: with lemon wedges; and some men love to douse on Catsup and Hot
If one wants to stoke a guest with some of the more famed oyster Pepper Sauce (Tabasco). French Fried potatoes go well with oysters;
dishes, take him to a good (and expensive) restaurant or hotel-restau- and plenty of cold beer is a fine drink with' em.
58 59
CRABS The San Francisco variety-called CHIOPPINO-contains a great deal
of fresh crab meat and claws. It is a very tasty dish; middle-aged diners
Crabs are another item that an entertaining host (or hostess) must from Kansas go all gay when the waiter ties a bib around them; and
consider (now cut that out, Bessie!). Frankly, they are expensive and when they get the bill for this very expensive entree, the gaiety cools
not exactly the "full meal" type of thing. Also, there are so many kinds remarkably. It is not a thing that could be easily prepared at home.
of crab that the tyro can easily get lost. (Imagine being lost with Fresh Crabmeat Cocktails are a fine way to start almost any meal
crabs!) There's Dungeness, Alaska, King, Stone, Puget Sound, Soft- or snack, and most men like them. As crab, shrimp, lobster, and oysters
shell, and so on. Once again we rather advise you to adjourn to a good are all served this way=let' s pause to make some jazzy
seafood restaurant for crab dishes. Of course, we think crab salads and COCKTAIL SAUCE in a bowl:
cocktails are the "most"; some of the hot preparations are fine too, but
are usually pretty complicated to put together. Well, we can try a few ... 1 Tbs. Worcestershire Sauce
For CRAB ST. DENIS, you bread some crab legs (very expensive- !~tsp. Tabasco Sauce
but they come frozen, and are pretty tasty. Incidentally, all crab that finely-grated rind (just the yellow) of a lemon
you will be able to buy, including whole ones in the shell, have been strained juice of a lemon (same lemon!)
boiled or steamed; they are "cooked," so don't even think about raw 1 Tbs. minced parsley or green onion tops (real fine)
crab. Season some flour and dunk the legs thoroughly; then fry (sautee 2 cups bottled Chili Sauce
is the word-at these prices) lightly in a mixture of % butter to 1 part Stir this all together and chill well before using; it's a real lip
oil. In a round shirring-dish-or even a soup-plate-you put some rather smacker. Will keep in the 'fridge a: week or so. The crab won't,
rich cream sauce that has had a little dry mustard worked into it. A however. Nor will any other shellfish. They spoil easily.
round of well-buttered toast goes in the center of this; the fried legs
are piled around like the petals of a daisy (down girl!). Sprinkle with To get back to our crabs (sic), we just can't pass up such a fine
a little melted butter, run them under a broiler-or put them into a opportunity to camp it up a bit. It is rumored that in conversation with
5000 oven for a few minutes. Take out, garnish with a tomato crown Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown, our own General Washington (and there
and/or a radish rose in the center and serve at once. Use about 8-12 was a mad one! Don't be misled by that constipated expression; his-
legs for a portion. Very pretty. torical apologists say he looked that way because his teeth hurt. Like
the rest of us, with his dentures removed, 01' George was a gay old
thing), is alleged to have said, "... they ain't no disgrace in gettin~
DEVILED CRAB
'em, Lord C., but it's shore a damn fool that keeps' em, I always say ... '
Crabmeat is mixed with a very rich "deviled" sauce (a very rich His Lordship's reply has not been noted!
cream sauce with added mustard, cayenne, pinch of curry); the mix-
ture may include a few small slices of mushroom; it is put into cleaned SHRIMP
crab shells or small ramekins. The top is liberally covered with a mix- There are, probably, a thousand ways to cook and serve shrimp;
ture of ~f crumbs-sa Parmesan cheese, and a little paprika. These go they are a very adaptable food, and are moderately expensive. The
into a 4500 oven til heated through more you do with them, the fancier you get, the more the dish will
- ~ and are lightly browned on top; cost. Peculiarly, while almost everyone with any pretensions of being
"_ "'-- must be served very hot. a cook will know some shrimp recipe, not too many know much about
San Francisco Bay fishermen the little critters.
/f make a specialty-which seems to First, we should realize that commercial shrimp may come to the
~ •• appeal to tourists (bless 'em), that market from many places. All the Florida waters, particularly off the
is quite similar to the world re- West Coast of Florida, are loaded with these little shellfish; and there's
nowned Mediterranean Bouillabais. very extensive shrimp fishing in the Gulf of Mexico. All the way down
This is a fish chowder, rich in vege- the coast of Texas and Mexico, this is big business. The Louisiana delta
tables, several kinds of nsh and off the mouth of the Mississippi-seems to be a main source; in fact,
shellfish, sometimes rice, and usual- much of the 'Louisiana Shrimp come from there and from the bayous
ly flavored with herbs and saffron. of that coast. It is claimed that some miles out in the Gulf, some truly

60 61
 Right here let us note that all shrimp- (in fact, all shellfish) -are
jumbo shrimp, the size of lobsters, are taken; it is also rumored that very perishable; they spoil very easily. Once completely thawed they
these are sold as "rock lobster tails." Back to our shrimp. should be prepared and served as soon as possible. However, cooked,
In the cold waters of the Gulf of California, that is between the peeled and cleaned shrimp may be kept in cold water to cover for a
mainland of Mexico and the Baja Peninsula, are found the very finest day or so in the icebox. Some of the flavor is lost with this discarded
of shrimps and prawns. These are processed, principally, in the small water, of course.
Mexican towns of Guaymas and Topolobampo (s' help me! ). Again, But someone may say, "Five pounds is a lot to buy at once."
there is some shrimping off the Mexican Pacific coast, though this is 'Granted! We only suggest that this is the most economical and practi-
not too commercially organized. And this is the situation-more or cal way to purchase shrimp. You will find that your shrimp are a
less-all the way up the California coast to San Francisco where we frozen, solid block; we suggest that if you only want to use half of them
find, (I know, Maude. Who looks for shrimp in gay, gay San Fran- now, that you let the thing stand on the drainboard (or whatever)
cisco?) the famed Bay Shrimp. for an hour. Then you'll be able to break off as much as you want,
These last are taken from grounds and beds all up and down the which you set aside. The balance you'll immediately rewrap in heavy
extensive reaches of the great bay; Bay Shrimp are tiny little things foil and put back into your freezing compartment for another day or
and are particularly fine for cocktails. They are not found outside the another meal. It is best to figure on about % to 1 lb. of frozen shrimps,
San Francisco Bay area, and are-probably-mostly consumed in that regardless of size, for a portion or as a full dinner item; of course, after
area too. Further North, from Seattle to Alaskan waters, there are thawing, peeling, and cleaning this will weigh less, but to start with
some fine-flavored though small shrimp, called Alaskan shrimp. Shrimp- our figure is a safe measure. You should get six or seven (maybe even
ing is a major industry along here. eight!) generous portions from a 5 lb. block of frozen shrimp, regard-
Now as to sizes: the tiny bay shrimp and the Alaskan, which are less of size, depending somewhat on how you are to prepare them. So,
slightly larger are both bulk processed in such a manner that they are for two, whack off (break them away; do not cut) maybe ,~ of your
always on the market as "cleaned and peeled," never raw. This means package, and refreeze the balance at once. Never thaw frozen foods
that they have already been cooked (steamed) and are ready for serv- in water; it may be quicker but it will also wash away what flavor is
ice. (That's what we like, when they come ready for service). There in them.
are possibly as many as 350 shrimp to a pound of the Bay shrimp; The largest shrimp or prawns, and this will include the under 15
somewhere between 150 to 200 in a pound of the Alaskan. But remem- (that's size, Gertrude, not age!), the 15-20, possibly some of the 21-25,
ber-these are ready to eat as you buy them. They are sold in markets can be broiled, "skewed and shished," barbecued, deep-fried, etc. The
as "fresh-frozen"; are sometimes canned. Often these are sold in lidded medium-size are better for Creoles, mariniere, Newburg, salads, etc.,
tins and are "semi-frozen." and the smallest are best for cocktails.
Next-in size-in commercial shrimp packaging are the 43-65 size,
which indicates the number of green raw shrimps (in their shells) in BAYOU SHRIMP
a pound. Also available are the 31-42, 26-30, 21-25, and 15-20. Largest, For this you'll need that old heavy iron pot (or other heavy metal)
of course, are marked "under 15" which indicates there are that many or skillet, or what is called a chicken-fryer. An iron Dutch oven is
of these giants in the pound you buy. peachy dandy; whatever it is, it must have a tight-fitting lid. Use about
Now, let's clear up another slight mystery; nearly all of the larger 2 lbs. (for 2) of frozen, "green" shrimp; these are uncooked, in the
shrimp are often called 'prawns'; don't be confused; prawns are merely
shell and have had heads removed. Best size for this operation is a
large shrimp.
26-30, or even 31-42. You'll also need at least '4 lb. of butter (J~ lb.
Most economical way to buy shrimp is in 5 lb. fresh-frozen pack-
would be better), or one of the good oleos. You'll have on hand the
ages; your dealer will get them for you if he doesn't stock 'em, and in juice of a large fresh lemon, and 2-3 Tbs. of Tabasco Sauce. Thaw the
the size you want. shrimp until they are separate; then rinse quickly under running cold
These will be raw and unpeeled, though the heads will have been water. Melt the butter in the heavy pan, over medium heat; do not let
removed; they will have to be cooked and the shells and small 'vein' it brown. Dump in the shrimp (still ,in shells), add the Tabasco, cover
must be removed. This may be done before the cooking or after. As at once, and continue cooking over the medium heat. Do not lift the
noted, the two smallest shrimps, the Bay and Alaskan are sold ready
to eat.
63
62
 cover for at least 30 minutes, though you should shake up the pan a
couple of times during the cooking. The shrimp are now cooked and these substitutes serve their purpose, but they just ain't so tasty!
ready to serve. (See, as simple as that! ) Again we note: almost all lobster dishes are expensive; nearly all
Pour the lemon juice into the pan, swish it around (lots of swishing will require a more or less complicated preparation. Perhaps least
going on around here tonight); then, drain all the juice (the butter, expensive and least troublesome, would be Broiled Lobster Tails. (I
Tabasco, lemon) into a bowl. Put the cooked shrimps into another know, Cecelia, you love to make gay puns, but not now.)
large bowl. Spread the table with newspapers, and set the bowl in We purchase raw, frozen lobster tails; the largest size will weigh
the middle of the want ads. You'd better have a loaf or two of warmed about 10 oz. in the shell, and will nicely serve one; or we can plan to
French bread, and a tub of cold beer handy. Also, a couple of empty use two smaller tails for each portion. These smaller ones may be
bowls. The diners - properly costumed in small towel - shuck the more tender, as the larger ones are often tough. We thaw them gradu-
shrimps and dunk them into the hot butter sauce. You'll be surprised ally by leaving them in a cool place for a couple of hours. If you
how fast the couple of pounds will go. Of course, you could have thaw them out in water, it's quicker, but you'll lose a lot of the fine
some real good cole slaw handy, but that's about all the frills. (The salty lobster flavor.
last time we did this at Happy House, we used 3 Ibs. for 3 people; We note that the tail has a rather flat side, and a rounded side,
as the pile was almost immediately diminished, we just got up and obviously the top. We cut the flat side off where they join (we use
cooked the other two Ibs. While waiting, we just lolled about, slurping heavy kitchen scissors to snip the shell) being sure to leave the tail
beer. (Some have etchings, some have new recordings or tapes; we flipper attached to the rounded shell we have left, and which cradles
have lots of beer!) Actually this is one of the very finest ways of the meat like a basket. The lobster tail is now ready to cook and this
fixing shrimp; it's simple and tasty; though the "shucking" can be hell will take about 25 minutes. If possible the broiled lobster should be
on a girl's manicure! served as soon as it comes from the broiler or oven. Much handy
broiling is done in a 450-500° oven, giving it only a minute or so
longer.
LOBSTER The exposed meat is lightly oiled, and the whole thing is put on
the broiler rack (shell side up) about 6 inches under a medium flame.
Here we have a fine bit of eating from the sea. (We know, the After 8 to 10 minutes (possibly a minute longer for very large ones)
very mention of seafood turns some of you on. Well, m'dears, settle take it out of the broiler (or oven), and loosen the meat in the shell.
your feathers.) There are several kinds of lobster; the big-clawed Douse it with butter, dust it with paprika, and shove it back into the
beauties from New England, the clawless or so-called "spiny" lobsters broiler with, the meat side up to the fire. Do not cook for more than
from the West Coast; and the somewhat similar Gulf Coast crustaceans. 10 minutes; longer cooking will dry the meat and make it tough. And
These last, coming from a warmer water, do not have the same fine there you have a broiled Lobster Tail- and very tasty it can be.
flavor or crisp meat that is enjoyed in lobster from colder waters. If - when put back into the oven or broiler for the second part of
Lobster is an extremely perishable food; therefore, while some are the cooking, you fancy it up a bit - you'll have something quite
shipped by air from the East to the West, much care and selection different. We cut the top off a medium-sized tomato, and jam the
must be used in their service. Even the Western lobster must be tomato into the open end of the shell. We crisscross the meat with
cooked as soon as possible after coming from the sea. To some extent, half a dozen anchovy strips, squeeze a lemon lightly over the meat,
instant freezing has removed some of the danger here. Then, too, we douse it with butter, dust with paprika, and then finish the cooking.
now have frozen, raw lobster tails shipped in from Africa, Australia, The anchovy-lemon makes for an entirely different flavor; the resultant
Mexico (and possibly even from Cucamonga!) Except in decorative Broiled Lobster a la mirabeau is real jazzy. Of course, we serve this-
dishes where the lobster is served in its shell, much lobster served in at once - with the tomato still in there, and with maybe a gay piece
restaurants is now the meat of these frozen tails. It has even been of parsley stuck in it.
rumored that these foreign tails are not true lobster, but are actually With most lobster preparations serve a tart cole slaw (made a
giant crayfish or giant shrimp, or something out of a Walt Disney or couple of days ahead) by adding a little lemon juice and some finely
what-have-you. Certainly no foreign meat from the sea can compare grated rind to a simple sour-cream slaw, and crisp shoestring potatoes
with the stuff that abounds on our Eastern and Western seaboards; are most often served. Lemon wedges and parsley pieces make an
attractive and simple garnish. Hot garlic rolls or good, warm, crusty
64
65
 o French rolls or bread, are fine too.
A plainly cooked green vegetable
and a simple but filling dessert,
such as Apple Pie with a generous
Then, there'll be seasonings, some wine, maybe even some brandy, if
you care to go all the way. (Who doesn'tr )
First, we prepare the cooked lobster; the whole ones are split right
wedge of Cheddar Cheese will down the middle, lengthwise. Claws and legs are cut off from each
nicely complete the meal. A dry side. If there are large claws (Eastern Lobsters), they can be left on,
white wine, such as a Traminer, a but they should be cracked so that the meat can be taken out. Often
Niersteiner, a dry sauterne, a Reis- -these giant claws are left on for show, but the meat is removed from
ling, or just good cold beer are very the bottom side, and used in the Thermidor. As these can offer several
suitable drinks with all this. problems, we in the gay West just use our own flavorful spiny lobsters
•.~ ,..,......
-,~.. Many lobster specialties are - no claws. You will note that the solid meat fills the tail; carefully
•• ' ' . ,-, ,,, "made dishes" and these require remove this, without damage to the shell, and wash it, removing the
that the fresh lobster meat be first boiled 10 to 12 minutes. Or, canned, black "vein." If it's a female lobster and there is a nice coral pink roe,
cooked lobster meat can be used. Cooked fresh lobsters are available take this out as well and set it aside with the other meat. Now,
at good fish markets, or frozen-tails (which are raw) may be cooked; thoroughly clean out the empty shell under running water.
some fresh-frozen cooked lobster meat may be in the freezer cases Meanwhile, back on the range, the thick, rich cream sauce is
at the big markets. In any case lobster is very expensive, as you'll prepared. Put one third of it in one pot. Make 3 cups of this basic
damn soon find out. sauce for 2 servings, or for the two halves of a large 3~ lb. lobster.
Many live lobsters are sent - by air - from the East to the West; Now your sauce is in two pots; it is best if these - one with one cup,
these critters will be packed in seaweed, and each should be inspected one with two cups, are handled from here on in double boilers or
to make sure it's alive. (No sense in taking home a dead one, we over hot water, rather than over direct heat. The larger portion of the
always sayl ) Also, each live lobster should be given a good smell; if sauce will make a wine sauce, and the smaller part we will make into
there's any "off" odor, no matter how it may look, put it back, and a Mornay Sauce.
don't take a chance. Some very peculiar food poisonings have resulted We have about a half cup of sliced fresh mushrooms that have
from bId lobster. Live lobster, as well as any raw or uncooked lobster, been lightly fried in butter; we stir these into the wine-cream sauce
inclu<3mg tails, are dumped into rapidly boiling water and lots of it. with a scant tsp. of dry mustard, and then gradually stir in a scant
To a p - 4 gallon pot of water (some cooks use sea water) add a small half cup of heavy cooking sherry. We must be careful not to get this
handful of sugar, NO SALT. The sugar sets the color and intensifies sauce too thin - or, rather, to have it heavy enough to start with.
it; lobsters will very shortly turn a bright pinkish red. Boil the lobster In the other pot of cream sauce (1 cup) we gradually stir in ~ to ~£
no more than 10 to 12 minutes; take up and dunk into cold water. cup of clarified butter, being careful to do this gradually so that the
Now they can be cut up and prepared. sauce does not separate, (Don't holler, Maude - I know you don't
know what that word is! Lead on!) CLARIFIED BUTTER is butter
LOBSTER THERMIDOR that has been set in a pan or a crock over hot water until it has melted
and separated; with the clear oil on top and the 'whey' or sediment on
Suppose (just for the hell of it) we'd like to make a Lobster the bottom. The oil is carefully ladled off - this is clarified butter.
Thermidor, or a Lobster Diablo, (These preparations are quite simi- Then we work into our sauce-and-butter, a half cup of grated
lar.) Some considerable kitchen "know-how" is required. Frankly, Parmesan cheese or grated Gruyere cheese. This sauce should stand
this is not the dish for the real amateur, but try it if you'd like. over very hot water (not boiling) until the cheese has melted into
For either of these we can use whole lobsters; a 3 - 3)~ pounder the cream; this is called a MORNAY SAUCE and is used for topping
will serve two; or a 2 to 2)~lb. lobster will generously serve one, using dishes that will then be lightly browned in the oven or under a broiler.
both halves for the portion. Preferable is the larger lobster, serving The cheese and butter content will turn the surface a shiny, glossy
only half for a portion. About a cup and a half of rich, heavy cream brown, and will add much to the appearance of the dish. With our
sauce will be needed for two servings. Also, for two servings we'll Mornay sauce sitting hot and ready, we next cut up the lobster meat.
need about a half box of fresh, small to medium-sized mushrooms. This will include that extra tail, the coral, and the claw meat, if we
have it. As the tail pieces are split (when we cut the lobster) we cut
66
67
 to be washed afterwards. Besides lobster dishes are costly as hell.
these into half-rounds about ~ inch thick. This meat may simply be
mixed in with the wine-cream-mushroom sauce. A much fancier and We favor a heated up bowl of chili (Chapter 4).
Old (and well-seasoned) chefs will know that a simple dish is
more flavorful way of doing it is to put a very little oil and a very
little butter into a skillet or fry-pan when this is hot, but not browned, quite often more satisfactory than something that costs a lot, and is a
toss in the lobster meat. Swish it around for a couple of minutes to heat lot of trouble to make. (What was that last again?)
the meat through. Then we turn up the flame, douse in a half-glass (a Musical chairs, anyone?
shot glass or about an ounce) of brandy. This will immediately flame .:-
up. We toss this all together for a minute until the flame dies down,
then dump it all into the wine-cream-mushroom sauce. We let this
cool for just a few minutes, and then stuff the empty half-shells with
the mixture. We should have enough to not only fill the tail but the
front part as well. Then we spoon the very thick Mornay Sauce over
them, piling it evenly over the tops of each portion. We lay the filled
shells on a large pie-pan or similar pan, and run it under the broiler
or into a very hot (500 0
) oven for a few minutes until the surface
has a nice glaze and begins to bubble. Take it out, and there you are:
two handsome portions of Lobster Thermidor. These should be served
at once with shoestring potatoes, possibly some tart slaw, and gar-
nished with parsley and lemon sections.

LOBSTER DIABLO
Preparation of this dish is almost identical with that for Lobster
Thermidor. Some Tabasco sauce is added to the wine-cream, and
some sliced green onions are lightly fried with the mushrooms. Also,
we add a pinch of white pepper and a pinch of curry powder to the
Mornay. After this last is spread on top of the filled shells, we sprinkle
a mixture of breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese over the top, with an
added dusting of paprika.
This topping on many dishes is called a gratinee for the simple
reason that hard bread as well as hard cheeses are grated in the old
country to make the crumbs. Many American dishes are called
au gratin, and with us this usually means they are baked with cheese.
Gratin dishes, however, in Continental cuisine, do not necessarily
have cheese with the crumbs. (I'm telling you, Myrtle, the things you
learn in this book!)
Anyway, after you've got the things out of the oven or broiler,
you've got a couple of fine, tasty orders of Lobster Diablo; and con-
sidering all the damned work you went to to whip them together, we
sincerely hope that the character that gets the other half is worth the
trouble.
Needless to say, there are hundreds of standard lobster dishes.
As you can plainly see, considerable cooking skill as well as time and
equipment is essential, to say nothing of all the pots, pans and dishes
69
68
 CHAPTER SIX
That Old Tired Fish

Sale Bonne Femme

Sale Normande
Sale Cardinale
Sale Mornay
Sale Marchand du Vin
Sale Provencale
Pan-Fried Trout
Trout Meuniere
Trout Amandine
Stuffed Trout
Poached Salmon
Lomi-Lomi Salmon
Codfish Cakes
Bacalao can Pappas
New England Creamed Codfish
Cod Creole
Gefilte Fish
Swedish Style Fish Cakes
Fried Fish

71
 SIX
~*.:
..
)<••:••:••:•.,..:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••).)+.:.t'. ••:••:••:••:••:.<••:••:••:••:..:••:••:••:••:••:•.:•.:••:-<••:.+<••:.•:..:••:••:••:.•:•.:•.:..:•.:••)<.

There's certainly something about a big fish dinner that's very

distinguished; even passing up any potentially gay remarks about our
eating fish! It's surely a changeover from eating a good piece of meat!
Some characters have thrived on it; perhaps it's the novelty appeal
that does it; it's for sure we all want to be different, from time to time!
Of course, lots of people just prefer to have fish on the table once
or twice each week, and do so, whatever their reasons may be. Many,
many years ago, housewives found that fish was less expensive than
meat; sadly this is no longer the situation.
There are nearly as many basic preparations for fish as there are.
kinds of fish; they may be served boiled, baked, fried, broiled,
poached, creamed, in a loaf, stuffed, barbecued, smoked, and so on.
These basic methods can also be broken down into hundreds of styles
and preparations. Some fish are very adaptable, such as cod, which
may be cooked in almost any style. Others, such as sand-dabs, small
perch, or even small trout are best simply pan-fried.
Quite a few very informative books have been written about the
various fish around the country (not including Salinger, Faulkner, Cald-
well, and others); space here does not permit of such lengthy disser-

73
 tation. A very few admonitions in purchase of fish do seem to be in For our usual two servings, we'll need 4 medium sized filets of
order, however. sole, fresh if possible, otherwise frozen and carefully thawed. Also,
It at all possible buy FRESH fish that has not been commercially about a ~ lb. of fresh mushrooms, sliced; 1 medium onion, chopped;
frozen. (Packed in ice is not frozen). If in a coastal city go to the about lJ~ cups dry white wine (Reisling, dry Sauterne, or similar); a
fishermen's wharves and get fish as soon out of the water as is possible. good tablespoon of chopped rarsley; the juice of a lemon; salt and
In mid-continent, try to use fish from lakes and rivers, also as fresh pepper; and perhaps a tsp. a cooking oil. For the sauce we'll have
as possible. Hell! Go catch it y'selfl on hand 1 cube O~lb.) of butter, 2 tbsp. Hour, ~ cup heavy cream,
This is not to say that there is anything wrong with frozen fish; and an egg yolk. We'll need a Hat skillet or pan to go in the oven -
it is perfectly sanitary, edible, and often palatable. However, it has no plastic handles-a couple of small pots, and two Hat casseroles
been proven to the satisfaction of food authorities that many fish and (such as shirring dishes) or heavy soup plates to serve the entree in.
other seafood items lose Havor in commercial freezing processes. As a All set, ladies?
prime example, Tuna is one of the oiliest of fishes, yet unless actually We very lightly grease, with oil or butter, the skillet or Hat pan,
purchased at dockside, is almost never available in markets. First, it and spread half of our vegetables (mushrooms, parsley, onions)
can be sold to canneries, and usually is; more important, the oils that around the bottom of it, adding a dash of salt and pepper. We fold
contain the esters of Haver will not freeze. If this fish is cut up and each of the four filets over, one end on to the other, like a purse or
frozen (a very, very little is), the resulting product is merely the husks Parker House rolls, and lay them on the vegetables. We put a small
of the fish, with the juices - the oils - all gone. Albacore, bonita, dot of butter on each of the filets and sprinkle the lemon juice over
pompano, and other such fish offer the same problems, though con- them. We cover these with the rest of the vegetables and carefully
siderable swordfish is frozen and sold. In actual tests, this frozen pour in the wine, which will not quite cover the fish. Then we lightly
swordfish tastes very little like a genuinely fresh-caught piece. oil a round piece of heavy paper and fit it over the contents of the pan.
One other point - when in doubt make it Sole. No other fish (with We cook this over medium heat on top of the stove until it begins
the possible exception of cod, much of which is salted, smoked, dried to come to a boil; then put the whole thing into a 3500 oven for about
and otherwise processed), has as many standard and fine preparations. 12 minutes.
A non-fat fish, it also freezes well; being bland in Havor it goes well Meanwhile, just to keep out of mischief, we cut off about ~ inch
with almost any sauce, garniture or preparation. There are many types of the remaining butter and put it to one side; we melt the rest in a
of sale and Hounder caught off the West Coast; all are somewhat small pot, being careful not to brown it. (Hmmph!) Then we work
similar, and almost anyone of them can be commercially prepared the Hour into this with a pinch of salt, to make a stiff paste - this
for marketing where they will be sold under the single name, Sole. over a low heat.
Here again, the truly fresh ones, from off the piers at Monterey and By this time we have the fish out of the oven, and carefully take up
San Francisco, are different and wonderful. the filets and put two in each warmed serving dish, which has also
(I know, Tessie, this may be dull-type material, but a girl is smart been lightly buttered. We set these aside to keep warm, in the opened
to find out what she can about what she's gonna eat - especially if and turned-off oven, being careful not to dry them out. We strain all
she has to go out and find it, and then pay for it! Just be patient; sit the liquid off the vegetables (save' em in the pan) into a small pot,
there with your embroidery, and shut up! ) which we put over a fast heat to reduce quickly to about half the
(No, Sue-Ellen, San Quentin quail are edible, but are not to quantity.
be considered as table fish. In case you are interested, in the Bay Meanwhile, we add our remaining half inch of butter, and pos-
waters around San Quentin point, they fish for striped bass. Maybe sibly a drop of so of oil, to the vegetables in the pan, and saute them
it's the neighborhood uniform!) over a brisk Harne to brown them a very little. We work the reduced
Most versatile of all the famed fishes for fancy dishes is the sole. liquor into the Hour-butter paste (called a raux), working out all
The standard Continental hotel procedure here is to poach the filets the lumps to a smooth sauce. We mix the cream and egg yolk well
lightly, then cover them with a flavorful and distinctive sauce to together, then quickly, over medium heat, work this into the sauce.
serve, with appropriate garnishments. As an example, we can do no (Most professional cooks do this way: the egg and cream are mixed
better than offer the most famed of them all - SOLE BONNE in a small bowl or pot; a little of the hot sauce is whipped and mixed
FEMME (or good wife). in. This in turn is whipped and mixed back into the pot of sauce that
74 75
is over heat, which is turned off. After mixing egg into the sauce - to serve 2 smaller fish for a portion. Thawing should be gradual (for all
it's a thickener and enricher - the sauce should be cooked very little frozen fish); just let it stand unwrapped, in a cool place for a couple
over heat as this will cause the egg to grain.) However we do it, we of hours. Soaking it in water is quicker, and will certainly wash out
have a thick, rich, ivory-white sauce. This is poured over the two any flavor remaining after the freezing. Natural thawing - and it isn't
portions of sole in their serving dishes. The sauce should be thick necessary to get it completely limp before going to work on it - should
enough that it doesn't all run off. The lightly fried vegetables are be followed by careful wiping, inside and out, with a dry towel.
spooned around the bottoms of the servings. A piece of parsley may (We know, Celeste. No dry towels in your house. Sez you!)
garnish. No paprika. (Paprika is a very standard garnish, and is very
pretty, but it just doesn't belong on some dishes.) The two elegant PAN-FRIED TROUT
portions of Filet of Sole Bonne Femme are ready to serve at once. Easiest cooking method is simple
Jazzy, huh? And it couldn't be done better at the Ritz. PAN-FRIED TROUT, and that's it;
Almost all of the thousand or more Sole dishes are prepared in put it in a pan and fry it. Be careful
somewhat this manner; the sole being first poached, then served with here not to overcook the fish; not to
a distinctive sauce and garniture. For example, SOLE NORMANDE use too high a heat that will harden
has a pinkish sauce made of cream, egg, sieved shrimp, sometimes the outside, while not cooking the in-
tomato, and the dish is elaborately garnished with fried wedges of side of the fish. There is a complete
bread, shrimps, oysters, mussels, etc. SOLE CARDINAL has a lobster range of preferences in the frying fat;
sauce made very pinkish red with the ground coral from fresh lobsters, butter alone would quickly burn and
and is also elaborately decorated with truffles, small fish quenelles be bitter. Better to use J~ butter to 7£oil.
( dumplings), and so on. We have already learned how to make a Some cooks prefer lard for fish frying;
SAUCE MORNAY (remember that Lobster Thermidor, Chapter 5?), we prefer bacon fat. The trout may be
so we can quite authentically whip up a classic SOLE MORNAY, by lightly Houred or not; we do it. (Whenever we have a chance.)
first poaching the fish in wine or stock, then covering it with a rich We find-(a professional trick, and there's much to be said for a
cream-butter-cheese Mornay Sauce (Well, Minnie, if you'd been really good professional trick) -it best to simply fry the fish quickly, getting
reading this thing instead of merely picking out the campy bits, you'd both sides lightly browned, and then to shove fish, pan and all, into a
know how!) and lightly glazing the dish in the oven or broiler. SOLE 400° oven for 6 to 8 minutes. This seems to make for a better fried
MARCHAND DU VIN has a brown-Madeira sauce with anchovies; fish. (Lately we've seen some 'fried" fish, old as well as young trout,
SOLE PROVENCALE has a sauce and garnish of tomato, anchovy, that were complete messes!)
garlic, and olives. A small, pocket-sized dictionary of standard culinary
terms lists over 500 similar preparations. That's too much! TROUT MEUNIERE or SAUTE MEUNIERE
(We assume that by now you are wise to this SAUTE - it means
TROUT fried). The fish is pan-fried, then put into another pan and set to one
Let's investigate some of the things we can do with trout, long a side - possibly in the oven - to keep warm. A little more butter is
favorite with fish-fanciers. (And we are not referring to those old trout added to that left in the pan. If there's. too much of the cooking fat
who fall into the "super-Auntie" class!) Only a few things edible are in the pan, most of it should be drained off and then some fresh
finer than a speckled beauty fresh from a mountain stream, quickly butter added. This is melted quickly; a lemon is squeezed in, a large
cooked over an open fire. Ah, yes, it's glorious. But who in hell has a pinch of minced parsley is tossed in and swished around. This sauce is
mountain stream handy? Also, nearly all the trout we'll get our hands then poured over the hot fish, to be served at once. By now, observant
on will be fresh frozen, and probably from Japan or Yugoslavia. Let readers will note that this is a standard form for frying anything A LA
us again state our opinion that all fish does not freeze advantageously; MEUNIERE. TROUT AMANDINE is quite similar. This is an item
it. may come to you hard as a rock, but it just won't have that fresh often seen on menus of good restaurants, and it is very tasty. Pan-fry
Havor. However, you can purchase trout fairly reasonably in most the trout, adding a large tablespoon of slivered almonds to the fat.
large markets; some prefer large ones, to 1 lb., while other cooks like Take the cooked trout from the skillet; set it aside on warm plate.

76 77
 are too strong flavor for salmon. Two medium large salmon steaks, at
Add a little more butter to the pan, possibly a few more almonds, a least ~ inch thick, are laid on the vegetables; a slice of lemon is put on
small squeeze of lemon, then a drop (only) of almond extract. Swish each. No salt or pepper is used, as it is the fine delicate flavor of the
this around the pan, then pour it - nuts and all! - over the fish, to fish that is desired. Next, the fish pieces are just covered with the
serve at once. poaching liquid; this may be water with a dash of vinegar in it, or it
may be a dry white wine, or a mixture of the two. (Most professional
cooks use dry California Sauterne, available in inexpensive gallons and
STUFFED TROUT half-gallons.) A lightly greased or oiled heavy paper is fitted over the
top of the pan; the pan is put over medium heat and brought not quite
Call it baked, saute, broiled - or however you want to cook it, to a boil. Then it is transferred to a 375 oven for 12 to 15 minutes.
0

this is a fine and interesting dish of fish; with a little practice it is easy If the poached salmon is to be served cold, it is left as it is. First
to prepare. Using medium-sized trout, (and this is the tricky part), it is thoroughly cooled, then put into the icebox for a few hours to
you take a small, very sharp knife and remove the central bone struc- chill. To serve, the pieces are taken carefully from the liquid, the skin
ture from the fish. First you sit down from the cavity, about halfway is easily removed from around the sides, and the small center bone is
to the tail; then you carefully inch the knife in along the flat plate of carefully removed. Served on a large leaf of lettuce, it needs only a
bones until you've cleared it from the meat, right to the center bone simple garnish of cress and lemon. A side dish of a rich mayonnaise is
from the head to the tail. Continue carefully along both side of the served; some prefer a good tartare sauce. A rather bland, and quite
bones right to the top edge of the fish. Then lift the whole bone plate simple, potato salad is an appropriate accompaniment.
out, leaving you with a boneless whole fish, with the exception of Or, the poached salmon may be served hot as it comes from the
some small bones around the edges which you'll ignore. You fill this oven. It is taken from the hot liquor, the skin and bone removed, and
cavity with a fish stuffing; we use about a cupful of flaked, poached it goes on to a hot service plate. A simple lemon-butter sauce may be
(or boiled or steamed) cod, plus a few finely chopped shrimp, about poured over, or a Piquante sauce, or (our preference) a rich lemon-
3 tbsp. heavy cream, a pinch of white pepper, some of MSG, and a tangy Hollandaise. With the hot salmon, a plain boiled potato and a
tiny pinch of oregano. This fills 2 medium trout. Chopped mushrooms leafy green vegetable are in order, with a dry white wine, such as a
can be added to this stuffing; any fish can be used instead of cod. To Traminer or a Reisling to wet it down.
be really elegant use lump (white) crab meat and omit the oregano. If the cooked salmon is kept in the icebox and covered with the
The stuffed trout can be toothpicked together; we just wrap a couple liquor, it will keep as long as a week. After using, this liquor, (if the
of long thin strips of bacon around it, put it on a pie pan, and into a fish was served hot, the cooled liquor), should be strained through a
400° oven for about 20 minutes, turning it over once during cooking. cloth, and then it may be kept indefinitely in a cold part of the box,
This looks wonderful on the service plate, tastes good, and really isn't for the next fish poaching, or even to use in a fish sauce.
too hard to do. Incidentally, the trout may be stuffed some hours All of us have heard of South Seas feasts where raw fish was eaten
ahead; then simply pop it into a pre-heated oven when needed. So it's with gusto. This somehow reminds us of the very funny tale about the
not to far out to offer this to a "drop in" (or dragged in) guest, who two missionaries who found themselves in the pot, being cooked as the
shouldn't object to a bit of fish on the evening's program. We serve a piece-de-resistance for a cannibal banquet. One prayed seriously, then
sizzling baked potato with this, and garnish the plate with lemon the other started to giggle. The serious one was aghast, and demanded
wedges and watercress. Lovely - and different. to know what could possibly be funny. Again giggling, the other
One of the very finest of hot-weather dishes, and very handy to looked down, coyly, into the steaming broth, and said, 'Tll get even!
have on hand in your box at that time of year is ... Look what I've done in the gravy!" (Oh well, Minnie, we enjoyed it.)
Not only do they eat raw fish in many of the less enlightened areas
of the Pacific, but it is a common staple of the Japanese diet. Let us
OLD POACHED SALMON
quickly explain lest the idea make you slightly nauseous, it really isn't
For this we lightly grease a skillet, or other flattish pan. If we are actually raw in any case, as the fish has been lightly pickled by mari-
to prepare quite a few pieces, we use a larger pan, like a pudding pan. nating in vinegar or wine or other sauce for some time before serving.
We spread in a cupful of mixed, chopped leek, chopped celery, and a So that's another mad tale blasted ...
bay leaf. Chopped green onion might be added, but regular onions
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 Mind you, all the raw fish eating isn't confined to the Pacific. of vegetables. This would serve 2 or 3 people as a main dish; maybe
(Well, when did you last eat 'Japanese?') 6 if served in small portions.
In Hawaii, LOMI-LOMI SALMON is a delightful and most popu- At any rate, the liquid is poured over the fish-vegetables, and it is
lar dish; here on the Mainland, it would be most appropriate to serve all gently mixed together. The liquid should almost cover the mixture.
in summer or warm weather, and is, in fact, quite easy to prepare. Place a plate-or cover-over the bowl and put it in a cool place, not
However, the salmon must be fresh, never frozen. It may have been necessarily in the icebox. Leave it for at least 24 hours, but gently stir
packed in ice for its trip from water to market - and not too long a it up a few times so that the top mix gets down into the juice. Then,
trip at that - but if it has been frozen at all, just forget the whole thing put it into the icebox for at least two hours to chill. To serve, the mix-
for Lomi-Lomi. Tricky fish dealers have a habit of receiving a frozen ture is spooned out of the liquid-use a slotted spoon-and put into
fish that may be days, weeks, or months old, and carefully thawing it lettuce leaves. Or, the"whole thing may be drained off, and with the
out and selling it for "caught this morning." While the husk of the leaves tucked into the sides, may be served in the same bowl. There
fish may have frozen to a perfectly edible holding state, the flavors, are two more additions; a little salad or olive oil is sprinkled over the
essence oils, and so on, did NOT freeze and were simply lost. Of mixture, to make it glossily attractive, and to cut the tartness of the
course, best answer to all this is to go out and catch your own fish, pickling liquor. Also Lomi-Lomi is always heavily garnished with
then rush it to the stove or whatever. Anyway, assuming that we do chilled and quartered fresh tomatoes; some freshly chopped green
manage to get some truly fresh salmon, and we are expecting a guest onion may be sprinkled over these. A large section of fresh lemon may
in the next day or so, let's surprise him (or them) with this Island be added to the service. Sometimes, (and we have actually made and
delicacy. eaten this dish in various of the Islands where exact preparation may
The salmon is cut up into small strips, about the size of one's little vary), during the last few hours of the pickling, or when it is in the
finger, after it has been skinned and boned. (The fish, silly, not your icebox, the cut-up tomatoes are mixed into the mixture.
pinkyl ) These pieces are put into a fairly large sized bowl (not Well, Lomi-Lomi Salmon is delicious, very palatable, very good
metal); to them are added some coarsely-chopped celery, chopped for you, and certainly-very unusual. As with so many other things
green onion, diced green pepper (large dice). Diced apple and bits that we made and ate in the Islands, it brings fond memories just to
of fresh pineapple are sometimes added; a few gratings of fresh ginger mention it!
root, salt and pepper (coarse-ground and quite a lot) and a little sugar
all go into the bowl. Most often, this is a pretty casual dish; one uses
whatever one has on hand. (Ain't it always so?) There should be
COD
about l)~ cups of vegetables to 1 cup of the fish, or somewhere in this Of prime interest along the cold Atlantic Coast, are the various
proportion. uses of the lowly cod. It's a fine utility fish, and is possibly the biggest
The whole mixture is lightly tossed together, several lemons are catch in any American waters. It is usually too large a fish to use whole,
squeezed over it, or small limes may be used. These are quartered, and it seems to be a little better baked than simply fried.
squeezed in, and then just dropped into the mixture. In a separate STEAMED or BOILED, with some interesting sauces and garnishes,
bowl or jar, sharp, strong vinegar is mixed with soy sauce - about it makes up into many very fine dishes.
J~ cup soy to 1 cup vinegar. To this may be added some saki, dry white A great part of the cod caught is processed, (i.e.) salted, smoked,
wine, or - what the hell - even a little beer. In Japan they use quite or canned. Scandinavian lutefesk is a sort of cod, thoroughly dried to
a bit of MIRIN, which is a fermented and concentrated rice wine, a rock-like state; Spanish, Italian or Filipino bacalao is a salt-dried
that somewhat resembles our sherry. Possibly the old-time Hawaiians cod; Scotland's Finan Haddie is supposedly haddock, but is quite often
tossed in a little of their potent okolehau, which was a fermented drink the useful codfish. Unknown, seemingly, to the West, but on every
made from taro or TI roots, and is no longer obtainable in its original Friday's restaurant menu along the Atlantic, are two great favorites:
form. Actually, you can use some saki and a dash of vodka, which is fried Codfish Cakes, or Balls. (What was that, Tessie? Well, the same
as near as one can get to straight alcohol these days. Or: to one cup of to you; you should be so luckyl ) These are usually served with a rich
vinegar (and it must be strong!), we add ~ cup soy sauce, 1 cup of Tomato Sauce. The other great favorite, particularly in New England,
saki, and about 2 oz. of vodka. This much liquid-a little over ~ cups is creamed codfish. Each of these dishes is delicious, fairly easy to
would just about do for a mixture of 2 cups fish with 3 cups (or more) prepare, both are relatively inexpensive.
80 81
 Either of these dishes could be made from fresh codfish, but for
some reason they are usually prepared with what is called fresh salt CON PAPPAS
cod. These are cod filets that have been salt-packed to a partial cure
This is almost a national dish in the Philippine Islands. Freshened
but are still moist, not dried as is other salt cod. In the East this comes
dried cod is cut into small pieces; boiled potatoes are similarly chopped,
in little wooden boxes called "kits" and is found in all markets; only
few markets in the West ever heard of it. To use, the pieces of cod are and the two are fried together in a pan. Not only is a great deal of
pepper used with this mixture, but it is almost always accompanied by
soaked in cold water for several hours, then in fresh cold water they
very hot pickled pepper, and a cold bottle of the good San Miguel beer.
are brought to almost a boil. This last may be repeated once or twice,
Oh, it's good in Manila, but then, some things are good eating any
each time starting with fresh cold water. This is called "freshening."
place you can get' em.
Actually, dried cod or bacalao may sometimes be similarly freshened
One more "quickie"-(quiet over there)-with codfish cakes. Very
and used, though it would have to stand in water overnight or 8-10
hours. Scandinavians "freshen" their lutefesk in a like manner, but fine codfish cakes, with the potato, seasoning, etc. in them, come in
also add lye to the first waters to break down the very toughened dried cans and are very inexpensive. You simply slice these into 3, 4, or 5
fish, and, possibly, to bleach it out. rounds, dip in flour, and fryern. Very, very easy; and very, very cheap.

CREAMED CODFISH, NEW ENGLAND STYLE

CODFISH CAKES
Freshen some fresh salt cod, or use some lightly steamed or boiled
We'll need: to one cupful (packed) or flaked (or chopped or fresh codfish, (the 'salted' is better), and cut it into dice-sized pieces.
ground) fish, % cup of freshly mashed potato, % of a medium onion Make a moderately heavy white cream sauce, (or open a can of it).
minced fine, )~Tbs. pepper-either white or coarse-ground black, )~tsp. Heat the sauce carefully - best in a double-boiler - and when very hot
of MSG is optional; we use it. Also, about one half of a small beaten carefully stir in the cod. Season with a little MSG and some white
egg, 4 Tbs. flour, and the frying fat. This will make about 4 cakes, or ~. pepper, and there you have the basic dish. In some
one serving. Ij,~ parts of New England, they include some diced,
The freshened cod is drained as dryas possible, with all the water I boiled potato; some other recipes add quartered
squeezed out; then it is chopped fine, or it may be put through the hard-cooked eggs.
grinder, using the coarse blade. The just-cooked potato is mashed, This may be served on buttered toast, with a
and while still slightly warm, the fish, egg, pepper, MSG are mixed in. plain boiled potato, if none are in the creamed fish.
The onion is fried lightly in a very little oil, and is stirred into the mix- We prefer the creamed cod over split and toasted
ture. After wetting your hands under the cold water tap, you form and heavily buttered English muffins; and like plain
the mixture into 4 equal balls; these are then patted out into cakes boiled hominy with it, as well as a side dish of tangy
about )~to ~ inch thick. These are dipped at once into flour, with any Harvard Beets.
excess brushed or shaken off. The cakes are laid on a sheet of waxed For a generous single portion, use 1 cup cod to
paper, on a plate or platter, and are covered with another sheet of the one cup of cream sauce, with no more than ~ cup of
paper. The whole thing is put into the icebox for at least. two hours. potato, and a single egg. The dish is fairly heavily
The cakes may even be made the day before using, and kept well peppered (white), but no salt is needed as some
chilled (not frozen) until needed.
will be left in the cod.
Taken out of the icebox they are fried to a light crusty brown in Fresh cod filets may be lightly steamed or boiled, or poached,
a skillet with a little fat, or they may be laid carefully in a basket and usually with a piece of lemon to keep them white, then taken out of
deep-fried. We prefer the skillet as it seems to/make a less greasy the water or liquid, put on a plate and covered with a rich Creole Sauce
fishcake. We also prefer to use bacon grease to fry them in. As the (Neapolitan, Spanish, etc.) This is the classic COD CREOLE, and is
cakes are somewhat fragile, some care must be used in turning them as delicious as it is simple to prepare. It's inexpensive, too.
in the pan. The cooked fishcakes are served, usually, with a rich and It may seem inappropriate to offer here the preparation for the
spicy tomato sauce. If a sauce is not used, good catsup must accom- classic GEFILTE FISH. However, this superb dish does lend itself
pany them to the table.
to "casual entertaining," and-when well made-is always delicious.
Let's discover a little about "filled fish."
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 This is a liberal translation; in the old countries certain fish were
1 small onion-minced very fine
literally skinned, all the bones were removed from the bulk of the fish,
2 small eggs (optional-use whites only-beaten)
which was then chopped and seasoned. The mixture was then cleverly
put back into the whole skin, and the reformed fish was carefully
1 scant tsp. white pepper
cooked. 3 scant tsp. white pepper
~~tsp. MSG-l tsp. salt
Some more modem cooks simply save pieces of the skin and wrap
these around balls or cakes of the prepared flshmeat. Often, today, the
1 tsp. fresh chives-finely chopped
prepared fish mixture is simply formed into cakes and is then cooked
( opt.) 1 small carrot-shredded fine, then chopped fine
~~cup icewater .
as classically directed, without the skins. There are many commercially
canned and bottled gefiltes; we have never found a very good one. 2 whole carrots, peeled, sliced.
In Jewish home kitchens the world over, Friday is the day to make
gefilte, and, of course, this must be done before sunset as the sabbath Chop fish very fine, after removing all bones, skins, etc. Chop onion,
(Shabbas) starts at that time, lasting through 24 hours, or to Saturday chives, the small carrot if used. Mix vegetables with the fish, mix in
evening. In the strict Jewish home, no fires are lit during this period, matzo meal. Work in seasonings; beat eggs (whites only), mix with
so the delicate cold fish dish, in its own fine nutritive jelly or liquor, is ice water; fold into mixture. With wet hands, form balls or cakes of
ready to feast on. the mixture. Most usual is an oval, flattish cake, about 1 inch thick by
Our modem apartment dweller, with an eye for the casual "drop-in" 4-5 inches long, and about 2-3 inches wide. Or, balls of the mixture
for the weekend, would do well to consider having a nice crock of are about the size of golfballs; these are easiest rolled together between
gefilte fish in the icebox. These may be quickly served cold, or-with wet palms. Having again skimmed the simmering fish stock, there
only minor preparation-can easily be passed hot. should be about 2-3 in. of clear liquid on top of the bag of bones and
Of course, if you're the type ninny who would hesitate to serve an vegetables; this is cooking at not-quite-boiling. Carefully lay the cakes
item with the racial connotation of gefilte, forget it! And the loss will or balls on top of the bag in the stock. Strew the sliced carrot around
be yours. Of course, you could simply call them "fish balls," (being them; the liquid should just cover the cakes. Cook-with the pot cov-
very gay about it! ) ered-for one-and-one-half hours, adding a little more water if needed,
We advise that the gefilte be kept, after cooking, in a crock or any and gently shaking the pot a couple of times. Let stand uncovered as
non-metal container, which will have a tight or heavy lid. Also, you is for half an hour after turning off the flame. Carefully remove the
will need a fairly large, preferably enamelware, pot to cook the fish in. cakes or balls to a flat platter or pan. Fish out the bag and discard its
(This type pot is almost a must in any kitchen for good, large batches contents. Wash the bag out well and wring it dry. Skim the carrot
of almost anything, such as chili, meat sauce, jams, etc. ) You also will slices out of the liquid and set these aside in a small jar or bowl (that
need a piece of cheese-cloth; this is doubled and sewn together on can be covered) and dip out enough of the stock adding a little water,
three sides to make like a pillowcase. Then; to cover the carrots. Set these aside to cool. Both the contents of the
3 lbs. /ish heads, bones, skins, tail etc. crock, and the carrots, must be completely cold (several hours) before
2 onions-quartered putting them in the icebox, each covered. Carefully pour the liquid
3 stalks celery left in the pot, straining it through the doubled cheesecloth, into the
2 cloves garlic crock or jar you wish to 'store' the gefiilte in. Carefully put the balls
1 bay leaf or cakes into this liquid and set it all to cool. The gefilte will keep
almost indefinitely in this manner, in the somewhat gelatinous liquid.
Put all this in the cheesecloth bag; put it in the bottom of your big Cefilte is usually served cold. The chilled cakes have a few of the car-
pot, cover well with cold water. Bring almost to a boil, skim scum rot slices on top as a garnish. Often served with it is a Jewish-style
from surface; leaving at least 2 in. of liquid over the bag. Let simmer horseradish; this comes bottled, but should be as fresh as possible.
while you prepare; The old-country Jewish housewife will grate her own fresh horserad-
4 lbs. fish filets, chopped fine. (ALL fresh! Pike, carp, buffalo, dish and fresh beets, to make a condiment that is hotter than the hinges
and whitefish are best. Half should be whitefish; some sale, cod, of Hades. It is delicious with many meats and other dishes. Or, the
or haddock could be used. ) gefilte may be served hot by heating the cakes in some of their own
broth or liquid, and served as is, or with any of several sauces over it.
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 These could include a Creole Sauce, a Piquante sauce, a Lemon-Butter-
Egg sauce, or even a tart Hollandaise. A rich but light cream sauce
heavily flavored with chopped fresh dill, and poured over the heated
cakes or balls, would make this a typically Swedish-style dish.
CHAPTER SEVEN
While we have already mentioned it there are literally thousands
of ordinary and extra-ordinary fish dishes, these few here detailed Whallo do with a Tough Piece of Meal
should be in the repertoire of any aspiring good cook; many will not
be found in more ordinary cookbooks. Of course, a fish steak or a fish
filet, or even a whole small fish may be simply floured and fried. Why
not? Fresh swordfish, halibut, salmon, even filets of fresh cod, haddock,
etc., can be very fine eating. Some of the heavier fish, such as tuna,
swordfish, bluefin, sturgeon, albacore and the like are just wonderful
when nicely broiled. These last are fish containing a considerable
amount of oil, and so they take very well to broiling. With them a light
butter sauce, possibly with added lemon or anchovies, or a SAUCE Steaks Lamb or Veal Fricassee
Steak Gorgonzola Roast Pork
MAITRE D', are most appropriate. Some small whole fish, such as
Fried Onions Hot Buttered Rums
small sole, sandabs, trout, and the freshwater types; perch, catfish, French-fried Onion Rings Roast Leg of Fresh Pork
crappies, etc. as well as smelt, whiting, pompano, and so on, are all Fresh Mushrooms Roast Sweet Pickled Pork
simply prepared and are very fine eating. We believe that the most Bordelaise Sauce (modern) Orange Sauce
important thing about any served fish is its actual freshness; this does Veal, Pork, Lamb, Ham Steaks Baked Hams
not include freezing. Grant Avenue Veal Roast Leg of Lamb
Pork Steaks "Stuffing"
There are some fine, standard and exotic dishes such as Shad Roe, Roast Saddle of Lamb-Santa Fe
Lamb Steaks
Tongues and Sounds, Bellies, etc.; these are perhaps just a little too Ham Steak Dinner Pot Roast
far out for this pamphlet, and usually will appeal. only to confirmed Red-Eye Gravy Sauerbraten
fish-eaters. There is quite a gamut of smoked fishes, including Finnan Chops Corned Beef Dinner
Haddie, Sable Fish, Black Cod, Sturgeon, Kippers, and the like; these Cutlets Corned Beef Hash
are all darned good eating, but-as with so many other things-you Holstein Schnitzel Tongue
Paprika Schnitzel Heart
just have to be in the mood. All considered, and particularly as regards Tripe
Rahm (Smetane) Schnitzel
these last few items, we feel that it is best to stick with some of the tried Weiner Schnitzel Barbecue Sauce
and true numbers, even though it may not display the cook's versatility. Veal Cutlet a laMarsala Barbecued Spareribs
There are other ways to get this across. Veal Cutlet a la Parmiagiana Barbecued Spareribs Hawaiian
(What's that, Maude? You say to hell with fish, no matter how Scallopini Liver
tasty? Yes, dearie, I admit that cooking fish in a small apartment just Hamburgers and Hamburger Steak Fegato Venezia
Meat Balls Stews
ruins the scent of the incense!) Meat Loaf Old Fashioned Stew
Sausages Mulligan
.•) Bratwurst Dumplings
Italian Sausages Old Fashioned Lamb Stew
Knockwurst Irish Lamb Stew
Polish Sausage Browned Beef Stew
Braising French Stew
Shoriribs of Beef Beef Bourguignon
Roasts Goulash
Prime Ribs of Beef au Jus Meat Pie - Shepherd's Pie
Stock Swiss Steak

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 SEVEN
.:..:••:••:••:.<••:••:••:•.:.•:.•:••:*<••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:•.:••:.( ••:••:••:.( ••:••:.( ••).: ••:.(.<-<••:.(t.:••:.~.,..:-.).:.<.(.(••:••:••:-:•..:.(.<.

The answer is to be more selective in the meat that you bring home.
Th~, best these days is often none too good; "you gets what you pays
for.
Another thing to do would be to beat it. We always think of Texas
as the home of the well-beaten meat. A sort of national dish down
there is the chicken-fried steak, which is just a so-so piece of meat-
beaten 'til edible. That's Texas for you!
It all boils down to this : regardless of advertised trade-names (of
various meats) and irrespective of stamps (government stamps, city
stamps, county and state stamps, NAACP stamps for "kosher," packer's
stamps and grading stamps), the shoulder clod that you pay 80 cents
a pound for, will undoubtedly be better than that same cut on special
at 49 cents. It is a peculiar thing, but any who have done the marketing
for years, do not know the various grades
of meats, and can't tell what the stamps
mean, anyway.
Prime Beef, for example, is, (at least,
in California), the very finest grade of
beef. This indicates that the animal was
from a fine strain, was steer beef, was killed
at a suitable age after being practically
hand-fed on selected grains, etc. "Prime,"
incidentally, is almost never sold in mar-
kets; it goes to luxury hotels, clubs, and the
like, who pay a very high price for it.
The following bee f grades, after

89
 "Prime," are: Choice (AA), Good (A), Commercial (B), canner and skinned; lamb liver has a fine skin that is a little tedious to remove.
cutter (C), utility (D). At least the last of these two grades may be Hint: You dunk the whole liver-about H~lbs.-in a pot of boiling water
old dairy cows or bull-beef; they are always range-fed (on grass), and for 15 seconds; then it peels easily. It is well known (professionally)
are stock that has never been fattened. However, beef in each of these that many very fine and expensive hotels and restaurants serve delicious
grades will have a "prime rib" (standing rib roast), clods, loins, sir- lamb liver for the more expensive kind. (Yes, dearie, there's tricks in
loins, a chuck, plate, brisket, round, rump, etc.-just as do better grades. every trade! )
Butchers can be misleading; an unwary buyer may think sirloin of beef Pork liver is very inexpensive too; pig's feet and head can be fun
is sirloin of beef. True, but it isn't always pod eating. Yes, the old die- and good eating, but do require a pretty professional treatment. Tongue
hards who say, "Meat, dearie, is meat!" are not exactly right. -of practically every kind of beast (sit down, Clarrissa, you weren't
Pick a butcher, then, that you can depend on, and patronize no being insulted) is comparatively cheap, and makes a delicious meat
other. There is an exception, of a sort, to that, too; many butchers on the table. It can be served hot or cold, and is fine for sandwiches.
specialize in lamb or pork or veal, and may have a better quality ot Flank steaks are very cheap; nicely trimmed, they are rolled with stuff-
one or more of these, than in their beef, or vice-versa. Packaged, ready- ing and slowly baked or roasted. These make a wonderful and inexpen-
cut meats are often a gamble; the marked price unfortunately, is almost sive, dinner. So, we say, learn to buy and prepare some of these cheaper
the only guarantee of any quality, and this is not infallible. Better to cuts of meat, and cut down on your bills. But, most important, be
buy from a butcher who will cut it to your order and selection, and friendly with your butcher; it'll pay you well. Don't swish into his mar-
who has learned that you will not accept poor meat. One who knows ket and get all impatient at having to wait. Smile at the S.O.B., as you
that you will return when his place is crowded and read his beads gayly ask, "How's ya meat, today, Butch?" This will often do it.
loudly, if he has foisted off something not so good on you.
Then too, the buyer can use a little good sense, or as one old cat STEAKS
once cracked, "Caveat emptor" (trim off the fat, please). Meat that is These are the premium cuts of the beef, and supposedly the most
to be cooked quickly-as a steak-calls for a better quality of meat than tender most suitable for trying, broiling, grilling. They are usually the
if it is to be cooked slowly, such as pot-roast or stew, swiss steak, etc. most expensive parts of the animal, too. A bargain steak on the meat
While you want "Good" or "Choice" for steaks, a selected "Commer- counter is seldom a bargain. Average grade of steak meat in most mar-
cial" would be very satisfactory for the slower-cooked items. kets is U.S. "Good."
Another consideration-the shopper should try to get aged meat. A one pound steak can be costly; this is a good weight for a New
By proper hanging at proper temperatures for one, two, or three weeks, York or a sirloin steak; an 8-10 oz. filet or top sirloin is a good size; Rib
the meat seasons or "breaks down," and becomes naturally more tender. steaks should be about a pound; Spencers 8-10 oz., T-Bone and Porter-
But many butchers just don't want to be bothered with this sort of house steaks are not so popular anymore; these contain aT-shaped
processing. (All that meat hanging around and nobody doing anything bone with aN. Y. (sirloin) steak on one side of it and a Filet (tender-
with it!) As the great majority of their customers don't know the differ- loin) steak on the other side of the bone. To be really good, this steak
ence anyway, what the hell! has to weigh at least 20 oz. of which a portion is bone and fat. It just
One aspect of the cost of meats seems to be the American taste for isn't a practical cut of meat (at these prices!) either to buy or to sell.
the expensive cuts. There are, you should know, cheaper parts of meats Such a steak-for one-could cost at least $2.50. See?
that are quite as tasty, some even more nutritive. (Quiet, girls, let's Round steaks, club steaks, etc., offer good and tasty meat, say, from
exchange notes later!) For example, heart, either beef or veal, is very a "commercial" beef at about half the price of a graded "good" steak
inexpensive; it has more good protein and some other desirable ele- as above, but they must be cooked differently. With round steak you
ments, than sirloin. Tripe (beef) is considered a delicacy in every coun- can make a wonderful Swiss Steak; or the round steak may be stuffed
try of the world but ours; it is the best known source of edible calcium. and braised. You can see, though, that these aren't just slapped in a
(Calcium builds bone. ) pan and cooked; they must have long, slow cooking, and require some
There are unbelievably cheap lamb cuts, such as breast, shank, neck added liquid which makes for a wonderful gravy. As Epicurus once
(for stews), and even lamb liver. For example, this last costs about 25 said, "It ain't the meat, my dear; it's the gravy!"
cents per pound. Properly prepared, lamb liver is more tender, more Or, pieces of round steak, particularly if it's thin, can be "tender-
fine than the most expensive calf's liver. Like all livers, it must be ized" (pounded or almost hacked to pieces but not quite; "pre-chewed"

90 91
 as it were.) These pieces may then be breaded and cooked as chicken- A well-done, burn-it-up, cremated steak is a capital culinary crime;
fried steak (Texas' national dish. Ugh!); or as Old Fashioned Pounded if the cooked steak is still not juicy, it is tough. That extra-long cooking
Steak. Club steaks, (this is a name those sly butchers usually hang on dries out the juices, leaving only a tough husk of the meat. I guess we
odd and short cuts of meat), such as small ends of the short loin, small need hardly tell you that a piece of meat with no juice in it to savor
top-sirloins, very small rib steaks, and that sort of thing, are often a on the tongue and smack the lips over, is a lousy piece.
bargain.
Aside from plain butter as a steak sauce, or the Gorgonzola bit,
A current meat market practice is the use of tenderizers on tough, there are several other steak garnishes that will do the business, if you
cheap meats; most of these do the work, but many can be tasted by like that sort of thing. (We just like plain, tasty meat.) There's the
people who know the full rich natural Havor of good beefsteak. Some bottled sauces, like A-I, Escoffier, Tuxedo, Chevrolet, Falcon, Corvair
butchers sneakily use these on the meat displayed and sold-and it sure ... where were we? Oh, and there are other little odds and ends dear
as hell ain't Kosher; in fact, in many places it's against the law. to the hearts of steak eaters. Plain or FRIED ONIONS are swell. Brown
Most popular of steaks seems to be the Top-Sirloin; closely sec- the slices of onion in a little butter and a little oil (butter alone bums),
onded by New York (strip sirloin); these can be fried, broiled, or then cover the skillet and lower the heat. Smother 'em! Real good. They
grilled, but they should be cooked as quickly as possible. Frozen steaks are ready in about 5 minutes. FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS are real
(if you have 'em; we're against almost anything frozen in the meat line) jazzy, a little more trouble. Cut nice chunky rings, dip them into sea-
should be thawed just by laying the meat out on the sink or wherever. soned flour, then into buttermilk, into flour again, then buttermilk, then
(Hell, put it on the Hi-Fi or in the baby's crib, for all we care.) Leave flour (that was the third time); then, let them stand and dry for 15
it out for an hour or more before cooking. At this point, a little tender- minutes on a dry cloth. Then, as the steaks are nearing done, put the
izer could be applied, and a little salt, garlic powder, and some coarse rings again into that or debbil clabber, (buttermilk to you city folk),
and freshly-ground black pepper, can be rubbed into the steak. Both once more into the flour, and quickly-a few at a time-into very hot,
sides. Also, a little oil may be dribbled on it. Then, if it is to be broiled, deep fat. When nicely browned and still crisp-and they'll only take a
the oven and! or broiler should be preheated to 450,0, for at least 20 minute-take them out carefully and drain on paper towels. Serve on
minutes. If the broiler rack isn't made hot, it won't sear those gay criss- the steaks at once. These are really fine onion rings, but they must be
cross lines on the meat, which indicate that it was broiled. See? So, a handled with some care or the breading will come off. Truly worth
steak about H4 inches thick should take about 8 minutes on one side, the trouble.
then about 5 minutes on the other. It should be served at once on a FRESH MUSHROOMS. Either whole small mushrooms or sliced
sizzling hot platter; a piece of butter may go on top, or some of the larger ones are cooked in a little butter-oil for about 6 minutes, just
juices from the pan under the broiler. well heated through. Pour the fat out of the pan, set it aside. Throw in
about an ounce of brandy; this will flame up for a minute. Put the
STEAK GORGONZOLA melted butter back with the mushrooms, and pour the whole thing
over steaks on hot platters. 'S wonderful!
A mad, mad topping for any good steak, is a slab of Gorgonzola Or, use a modem version of BORDELAISE SAUCE. Using a full
cheese (or Blue or Roquefort) plopped on the almost done steak, and cup of chopped fresh mushrooms, (this is for 2, 3, or even 4 steaks)
allowed to melt down under slightly reduced heat for a minute or so.
dice up 2 strips of fatty bacon; put it into a skillet over medium heat.
Crazy? Nopel Ya' like cheeseburgers, don'tJou? Same idea, and real The bacon must not bum during cooking. Add the mushrooms, a large
yummy. Or, if the steak is fried or grilled, an you have no broiler, you
clove of fresh garlic, minced fine, 2 or 3 small green onions, chopped
can put the pan, with the steak in it and the cheese on top of the steak, fine. Cook this together a few minutes; this may also be Hamed with
into a 500° oven for a couple of minutes. Some fine deal! brandy at this point; this is optional, (we don't). Stir in half a cup of
If steaks are to be pan-fried, or grilled, (cooked on a Hat metal brown gravy, half a cup dry red wine (as Burgundy or claret, etc.-
plate), the pan or the plate should be very hot when the meat is put NOT a sweet wine), I tsp. soy sauce, a good sprinkling of coarse black
on it. This sears the surface of the steak to a nice brown; it keeps the pepper, and finally a small chunk of butter in one piece. Do not stir in
juices in. After 2 or 3 minutes, the steak may be turned and the other the butter, but let sauce simmer until butter melts, when you may add
side seared; then the pan or plate heat may be reduced slightly to cook ( optional) a tsp. of finely minced parsley. That's your modem Borde-
the steak from 10 to 15 minutes longer, as desired.
laise, don't bother to call us to tell us that it hardly resembles a true
92 93
Bordelaise; we know it-but this is damned good on steaks. LAMB STEAKS take lots of minced fresh garlic for us, and a good
There are some connoisseurs of fine foods who like anchovy butter pinch of crumbled herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, even a very
on steaks; others go for a good Bearnaise Sauce. This last is quite diffi- little tarragon. (We keep jars of these whole leaf herbs handy, and
cult to prepare properly, though most cookbooks offer recipes and sug- grind up a few in hand as needed.) It is very difficult to get a butcher
gestions for it. (We'll tell you how in "Sauces'I=Chapt. 9.) to cut a decent lamb steak; we solve this by buying a leg of lamb, and
then we have him cut about four 1 inch steaks from the center of the
leg. At home we take the remaining butt and shank meat off the
VEAL, PORK, LAMB, AND HAM STEAKS bones in chunks, and eventually make a fine lamb curry or stew of it.
HAM STEAKS are another great treat; and are seemingly an
None of these are too far out; they will usually cost less than a good
"American Dish," ( ... nothing like a good 01' American dish, we always
beef steak, and are very tasty as well. Let's give' em a brief whirl.
say ... ), and they are really easy to prepare. These are fine pan-fried,
VEAL is a meat that is nearly always cooked 'well done'; in fact,
though some like them broiled. Again we buy whole small hams, not
the served meat should be almost 'white' in the center as it is cut, after
over ten or twelve pounds. The butcher can get 'em for you, but you'll
cooking. A veal steak should be about J~" thick, and is usually cut off
the round, that is a nice even slice clear across the upper leg. Veal is have to order a week or so ahead. Canned hams won't dol you really
a bland meat, and the steaks seem to go well with spicy or tart sauces; want 'cured' hams, preferably NOT tenderized. Cut the steaks-( or
though even a plain lemon-butter sauce, or a Meuniere is fine. At have the butcher do it; he can saw like mad! )-about %" thick, right
Happy House we have a way of doing these that is easy and unusual. through the center and middle of the ham, so that you have a whole
God knows it's different! As it is a Chinese-style of cooking, we laugh- thick center slice with a small bone in it. Trim away excess fat-( save
ingly (laughingly! ... get her!) call it GRANT AVENUE VEAL. it if you don't want to use it then; it has lots of flavorful uses). Actually,
In a heavy skillet, we put a little oil, then some minced onion and we like to broil the ham steaks first, on a mad-hot broiler rack. We do
garlic, and at least 2 Tbs. of grated fresh ginger root. You'll really have this about 3 minutes on each side so that each side is nicely marked.
to hunt for a produce market that has this, but once found and used, Meantime, we render some of the chopped ham fat trimming in the
you'll never be without it, as fresh ginger root can really jazz up some big skillet; as it gets hot, put the steaks in. You may have to do this
dull dishes. Usually we add some coarsely chopped bell pepper and one at a time, holding one in the oven while the other cooks, or you
green onions, and always some sliced fresh mushrooms. We toss these can broil them all the way, while making the gravy in the pan. Don't
about in the pan until the vegetables become tender; then we skim overcook the ham steak in any case, as this dries it up; really, the ham
them out of the pan and set them aside. We raise the heat under the is already cooked. Put them on a hot platter and set them aside to keep
pan a little, and slide in our lightly-floured veal steaks. We sear these warm-in the oven, maybe.
quickly, 2 or 3 minutes on one side, turn them over and do the other Stir some flour into the fat in the pan. Of course you can measure
side. We again reduce the heat; pour in 2 Tbs. Soy Sauce, and cover it if you want to; if you have a half cup of fat in the skillet, use a half
the pan. We cook for about 5 minutes, then we turn the meat over, cup of flour. Stir it all together with a fork; add a tsp. of coarse ground
dump all the vegetables on top of it, and cook for another few minutes black pepper, J4 tsp. of MSG, % tsp. of paprika. As it all becomes a
-uncovered. Dished out on a hot platter, with all the vegetables and coarse paste (reduce heat a little if it seems to be scorching), we work
sauce poured over the steaks, this is a real goody. in 2 cups of rich milk. We stir like crazy to get all the lumps out, and
PORK STEAKS seem to have an affinity for apples; fried apple when it is finally smooth we add a teaspoon of cider or malt vinegar.
rings will brown nicely if the rings are lightly floured as soon as cut. We serve this RED EYE GRAVY in a sauceboat-or bowl-on the side.
Another way we do it (with pork chops!) is to salt and pepper the With this Ham and Gravy, we like sweet potatoes (NOT yams-
meat, melt a little of the trimmed off fat in the skillet, then add the there is a difference). We boil the potatoes about 45 minutes, with J4
pork chops or steaks. Brown them on one side for 3-4 minutes, then tsp. sugar (NO salt) in the water. Take 'em out and peel 'em. We roll
turn 'em over. Pour about a teaspoonful of rich cream (or even canned these in a pie pan with a tablespoonful or two of our ham fat that we
milk) on each piece of meat; top this with a couple of tablespoons of saved out of the pan before we began to make the gravy; we put the
tart applesauce. Reduce the heat under the pan, cover it and let cook potatoes in the pie-pan witli'the.Jat, in a moderately hot oven (400°)
about 10 minutes longer. Dish up the meat on a hot plate, and pour for a few minutes. Served on the steak plates, we mash 'em down a
pan residue over them. This is hearty food-and fattening! little with our fork and cover them with the gravy. (Well, that's the

94 95
 way WE do it-you cook 'em, and you're on your own.) With this we colors are yellow, white, green)-go alongside. This is a proper HOL-
like plain, lightly cooked fresh spinach, and lots of hot biscuits. We STEIN SCHNITZEL.
usually finish up the last of the biscuits with the last of the gravy. With a little paprika added to the gravy, and a little sour cream-
Somehow, when we have this meal, a general torpor sets in as we push you have a PAPRIKA SCHNITZEL; if sour cream replaces all the
away from the table. We slyly stack the dishes-and go and take a nap. milk in the gravy, and a sprinkle of lemon juice goes over the schnitzel,
This little menu is not recommended for calorie watchers, but is it ever you have a RAHM or SMETANE SCHNITZEL.
good! With a very little paprika added to the gravy, and the served cutlet
'garnished with a thin slice of peeled lemon topped with an anchovy
CHOPS ring full of capers, and with pickled jullienne of beets (cold) at one
side, you have a properly garnished WIENER SCHNITZEL.
Thin chops are never as satisfactory as thick ones; lamb, pork, or
Actually we mention all these very similar variations here as many
veal chops should be at least %" thick. All may be prepared as the steaks
restaurant cooks pile all these things on the poor inoffensive piece of
above. Lamb chops are very often cut double, or twice as thick-these
meat and call it Wiener Schnitzel. And so it goes, These are all standard
are usually broiled. Pork and veal chops are always cooked thoroughly
recipes in Continental cuisine.
through so that there is no pink at the center; but this too can be over-
done, in which case the chops dry out and lose much of their fine flavor.
Just watch them! Italian Styles ...
CUTLETS Floured and seasoned cutlets, quickly pan-fried in fine olive oil are
set aside; a little brown gravy-( a couple of spoonsful)-go into the
These are thinner than chops, and are boneless pieces of meat, pan with the remaining fat. Then about twice as much dry red wine
usually with no fat. They are most often made thin by pounding or (Marsala is a dry red wine of Sicily, with a Sherry flavor and body. Two
other flattening; they are most often floured before very quick frying; parts good California Burgundy to one part heavy California sherry
cutlets are sometimes lightly breaded. Most cutlets are served with would be almost the same thing) is stirred into the gravy. A very little
some particularly appropriate sauce or gravy, and are served with suit- minced garlic can go into this, and a few slices of fresh mushroom.
able garnishes. (See "Breading" -Chapt. 10.) The sauce is slightly reduced with about 8-10 minutes of cooking over
Two very standard examples of the cutlet bit are the German-style low flame, and is stirred smooth. The cutlets are returned to the pan
WIENER SCHNITZEL, and any of the many variations of Italian- and sauce, and cooked in it for another couple of minutes. They are
styled cotolette such as our favorite, cotolette alla Parmigiana (see then served on a hot plate with the sauce poured over. This is a stand-
below). In each 'of these given attention here-and these are only three ard VEAL CUTLET a la MARSALA; and is very fine with a dish of
or four of several hundred standard preparations-a veal cutlet a little some pasta Al Pesto or other plain pasta preparation.
less than the size of a person's hand, and less than half an inch thick, is Many of the Italian recipes (and there are many, many of them)
pounded flat and thin. Aside from putting it through the old clothes feature some version of a tasty tomato sauce; our favorite is a cutlet
wringer-the best way to do this is between two heavy sheets of waxed ALLA PARMIGIANA. For this popular number, the cutlet is breaded
paper. Lay it all on a wooden surface and use some flat, heavy object somewhat differently: first in the seasoned flour, then in the egg-milk
to pound it flat. A rolling pin can do it-we just use the bottom of a dip, then in a mixture of )~crumbs with % grated Parmesan cheese. The
beer bottle, starting with the full bottle, and by the time the bottle is breading is firmly pressed onto the meat, and the cutlets are fried in
empty, the cutlet is usually thin enough! The schnitzel or cotolette is )~olive oil and % butter. Browned lightly and quickly, the cutlets are
then lightly breaded and is quickly fried in oil and butter to .1 light then held-and cooked a bit more in a 2500 oven. A little minced onion
golden brown, after which it is taken up and set in a warm place, (like and garlic are sauted in the pan grease; some seasoning herbs, salt and
a 1750 oven) to hold. A little flour is stirred into the pan fat; seasonings pepper, are added. Then, several Tablespoons of Tomato paste or heavy
are added; thin milk or cream is stirred in to make a gravy. Some of puree, are stirred in. This is cooked together about 10 minutes. The
this is put on the warmed service plate with the cutlet on top of that. sauce may be thinned with a little milk or with a little white wine, if
A garnish of a small fried egg, and three small mounds of vegetable it is too thick. Strained, the sauce goes onto the service plate, and the
puree, yellow turnip, potato, green pea-Schleswig-Holstein's state cutlets are set onto the sauce. We toss a few strips of anchovy on the
96 97
cutlet, and have some Italian pickled peppers (pepperoncini) along- little MSG to the meat if you like-(but not in the absurd quantity the
side. radio and T.V. commercials advise; use just a little more than you do
SCALLOPINI, or escalope if you like French better, are little scallops of salt). A little coarse-ground black pepper will make it tastier, but
of veal and are very popular with Italian diners. Four to six are served with this type of meat, you must remember that the more things you
as a portion; each is a piece of lean veal weighing about an ounce, and add, the less you'll taste the good fresh beef flavor. We admit that we
is flattened out to very thin. They are lightly floured and are quickly add about J~ cup of Burgundy to each pound of the ground meat.
browned in butter-oil (olive oil if Italian style). Then they are usually The same garnishes favored with other steaks-as fried onions,
added to a pan of rich sauce for a little further cooking, or they may be mushrooms, sauces, etc.,-also go well with Hamburger Steaks. While
put in a small baking dish (as a cocotte or shirrer ), and with a sauce cheerfully admitting that it may be a culinary crime, we always have
poured over may be finished in the oven or under the broiler. This last the bottle of catsup on the table when we serve hamburger. (Jim gets
bit would seem to illustrate the differences in Italian and French prep- real nasty if we forget; beats hell out of Mother! ).
arations of the same item. Man! These foreigners ...

MEAT BALLS
HAMBURGER AND HAMBURGER STEAK
While we're on the subject of ground meats, we can't overlook that
We cannot pass on from this steak and fried-meat bit without men- old favorite, Meat Balls. Frikadellen in Scandinavia, Konigsberger
tioning the poor man's sirloin, though there's nothing really cheap Klops in Bavaria, Kef tides in Greece, Polpette in Italy, it's just plain
about good quality hamburger. As a starting point, your hamburger Balls in this country!
dish-whether it's a hamburger on a bun, or a 12 oz. steak, will only Meat Balls can be all beef, or a little pork sausage meat can be
be as good as the meat in it. And ground beef can vary greatly in price mixed in for added flavor. Scandinavians use half beef and half veal;
and quality, in your market. There's nothing wrong-in any sense- German cooks use beef, veal, and pork. Greek cooks make theirs of
with the cheaper meat; however, it will have an excess of fats and ground lamb or mutton. Some chefs add bread or other fillings-they
trimmings in it. These will cook out, making the patty or steak shrink insist this makes 'em 'light'. Maybe. Italian cooks often put in a little
noticeably. So aside from just buying the .75 hamburger-what to do? grated cheese, sometimes a little olive oil. Many cooks add some cooked
One solution is to go half-and-half, with a pound of .35, and a pound vegetables, such as onion, garlic, etc. We use:
of .75; this makes a pound of fairly lean ground beef at .55 lb.
At Happy House, where we do have a lot of mad equipment (most-
1 lb. ground beef
ly in the kitchen!) we have a mixer-type gadget with Q grinder attach- ~~lb. bulk sausage
3 slices white bread-soaked in J~c. milk, which is then squeezed
ment. We find it very handy, but a small, serviceable hand grinder can
be bought for a couple of dollars. It is well worth it.
out and discarded.
With our grinder 'greased and ready' we shop for some inexpensive
1 egg-slightly beaten
meat. (We know, Gertrude, and you're not We only one who s spent ~~cup minced onion
half her life looking for inexpensive meat.) Quite often our 'butch' will
~~cup minced green onion
have a sale on chuck roasts, or 7-bone roasts or round bone roasts, or
2 buds garlic-minced very fine
J~ cup celery-minced very fiine
whatever he calls it that week. We paw through his meat until we
J~ tsp. salt-J~ tsp. MSG.-J~ tsp. black pepper
find a piece that is the leanest, has the least bone. If this weighs approx-
J~ tsp. sweet basilleaves-J~ to ~j c. Burgundy
imately 3 pounds, we figure to get just over 2 pounds of very fine lean
hamburger from it. Of course, we'll have to sit down with a sharp knife We find that if the meat ball (or meat loaf) mixture is put together
and trim away all the fat and bone, leaving just the lean 'red meat parts. and let stand for 2-3 hours, the flavor is better. The vegetables
Then we'll grind it through a medium-holed grind plate (most grinders are sauteed (fried) in a pan with a very little oil or fat, and covered
come with three-a large, medium and small), putting the meat through for about 5 minutes. They are then added to the meat, and the
twice. Whatever the cost, your own fresh-ground hamburger will taste seasonings are mixed in with the wine. Make the individual balls;
twice as good as some you simply buy off the shelf. roll them out in your palms; if your hands are dipped in cold water,
A good hamburger patty is 4 or 5 oz.; a good steak is 12 oz. Add a the meat won't stick to them. Fry them lightly a few minutes in a

98 99

i I
I
tL·
 skillet, then put the skillet and meat balls into a 3750 oven for strips of bacon crisp, then crumbled these and tossed 'em into the pot
15-20 minutes, shaking them up once or twice. On the stove you'll with a little added coarse-ground black pepper. Darned if it wasn't
have 3 or 4 cups (for 2 or 3 servings) of a good Italian type sauce real tasty on the meat loaf.
(Charter 4); bring this to a gentle simmer. Take the meat balls
out 0 the oven; spoon them carefully out of the pan-fat and into SAUSAGES
the sauce. Let balls simmer in the sauce for at least half an hour.
During the last 15 minutes of this you can cook the spaghetti or This can mean anything from those little pork links you love for
other pasta. And don't overcook it. Drain the not quite tender , breakfast to plain 01' everyday frankfurters. We don't particularly
spaghetti; dish it out onto big plates; pile balls on top, with a want to discuss the cold sausages here, such as salami, bologna (the
good deal of the sauce over them. Serve at once, and have plenty Army's 'horsecock'), liverwurst and those things, except to say they're
of freshly-grated Parmesan or Romano cheese handy. Also needed: sometimes handy to have in the icebox during hot weather for an
a crisp green salad, crusty French rolls or bread, and lots of cold impromptu lunch. (A girl likes to give as good as she gets!) Aside from
beer or an Italian-type wine. (Zinfandel is a fine California claret the aforementioned little pigs, which are all fresh pork, there are many
that suits this very well.) A real fine meal! German and Italian-style fresh sausages that are fine eating. Bratwurst
are made mostly of veal-and some filling; these are first cooked for
MEAT LOAF about 10 minutes in hot water; then they must be braised with vege-
tables in a moist heat, or cooked with cabbage or kraut. Or, the pre-
While we're still gassing about dishes based on ground meats, let's boiled bratwurst may be fried in butter; they are really good cooked
give the lowly meat loaf the once over. We use the same basic meat this way and served with Bavarian Red Cabbage (Rote Kohl-see "Veg-
mixture as for meat balls. The bread may be omitted, or slightly more etables"-Chapt. 10), and with a side dish of chilled apple butter. Or,
of it may be added to make an even more economical-and larger- bratwurst can be heated-after the pre-cooking-in a light brown sauce
loaf. Many cooks, professional as well as amateur, extend the meat or gravy; this should be well seasoned, possibly with some dry wine
loaf in this manner. To 2)~lbs. of mixed meats (and with no bread) in it, as this sausage is rather bland. Quite similar preparations are
you may add any of these: recommended for the Italian sausages. These may be made of several
(a) 1 to 2 cupsJrated raw potato OR kinds of meat, but pork is usually a large part of it. They are usually
(b) ~;cup rolle oats--chopped fine on board OR fairly heavily seasoned, though they can be bought in Italian stores
( c) 1 cup-cooked rice qR as "mild" or "hot." These Italian sausages should also be brought to
(d) 1 cup-cooked kasha OR a boil and cooked for a few minutes as first step in preparation. Then,
( e) 6 slices fresh bread, crusts removed, mixed well with 2 Tbs. drained, there are a lot of things to do to and with them (quiet there
canned milk. Minnie! ). Fried and/or reheated in an Italian sauce, they go well with
many spaghetti and pasta-type dishes; they are very good with a tasty
(NOTE:-Meat Loaf may be made without these 'extenders'<- risotto.
but they make more good meat loaf-and tastily. We use, at Happy About the same preparations go for so-called Polish sausages. These
House, 1 cup grated raw potato, plus )~ cup cooked Kasha, to 2~ will have a somewhat coarser meat, (seldom any pork) and will be
lbs. of meat. We love it!) not only highly seasoned, but loaded with garlic. Real tasty-if you like
This fair-sized meat loaf should bake-at 3500-in about B~ to 1~ that sort of thing. These go well cooked slowly in very rich, gravy, then
hours; take from oven and tip excess grease from pan. Set pan (with served with hot buttered noodles with a dash of nutmeg in them.
loaf) in a warm place for at least half an hour before turning out and Popular among the cured or smoked sausages, are the lowly frank-
slicing. Serve with Tomato Sauce, or Creole Sauce, or Mushroom Sauce, furters, in several handy sizes and shapes. There are long skinny ones,
or any kind of rich brown gravy you may have on hand. We have stubby fat ones, some that are straight, some with a curve in the middle.
eaten a fine meat loaf served with a cream or country gravy; this was KNOCKWURST, which are large and have some garlic in them, are
certainly unusual, but was very good. We learned that the ingenious very tasty; our gay 'butch' calls these 'sorority size'. Oh, he's a card!
cook-host had only a little brown gravy, so he stirred a can of Cream These are fine when baked on top of a pan of baked beans in the oven
of Mushroom Soup into that, added a little water, fried a couple of until nicely browned.

100 101

~I
 As a general rule, all fresh-meat sausages have to be pre-cooked strained into a saucepan, the vegetables, etc., are discarded, and the
in water for a few minutes to cook the meat through; then many things sauce is let stand a few minutes so that any more excess grease will
can be done with them. Cured, smoked, or already-cooked and pro- rise to its surface; and we skim this away. There we have a wonderful
cessed sausages-such as wieners-only have to be well heated through gravy for our shortribs, and the whole bit is ready to serve. We like
in water. - these with mashed potato; some strong fresh horseradish always seems
There are literally hundreds of lovely sausages; all sorts of flavors; to be good with shortribs. This is a practical demonstration of braising;
all sorts of meats; all sorts of shapes-and that is enough of that! . again-it means 'cooking with moist heat'.

BRAISING ROASTS
We note that we have several times mentioned braising-and it just There are all kinds of methods of roasting your meat; we'll suggest
comes to us that very possibly many amateur cooks don't really know only the simplest and easiest. If this seems unnecessarily detailed, we
what this means. Literally, it means cooking in moist heat-and that's hope you'll bear with it. Let us say here that too many cookbooks direct
what we do. For instance, we would like to 'braise' some SHORTRIBS the bewildered reader too casually; the true amateur isn't really told
OF BEEF. Dandy! First we prefer to brown the strips of meat and what to do-in needed detail. Perfectly legitimately, such a book (and
bone, in a dry pan in a very hot (450-500°) oven. When they are well we could name a few!) could say: "roast the proper number of minutes
seared on all sides-and this should take about a half hour-we take per pound, depending on the way you desire it to be." Well, this could
'em out of the roast pan and set them aside. We put a wire trivet or suffice for an experienced cook; our girl, standing there with her meat
a flat rack, in the bottom of the pan, or a small plate, inverted, can be in her hand, might or might not know just what to do with it. So in
used. Then we toss in some coarsely chopped celery, onions, garlic, quite a few of our recipes and preparations we are minutely detailed,
carrot and leeks. We pour in a pint or two of gravy, or rich meat stock, and you'll just have to go along!
or gravy and meat stock. Possibly half of this liquid is red wine. Then Ya' wanna entertain some people to dinner, and with something
we put the short ribs back in the pan, on top of the vegetables and the pretty good? Well, your best bet is a good roast PRIME RIBS OF
trivet, or such-like. Salt and pepper is sprinkled over, with possibly BEEF. If you buy U.S. 'commercial' (B) beef, this will cost you about
a few leaves of basil. The whole panful of goodies, covered, is set back .90 per pound; but-be very sure of your butcher. If he likes you, you
into the oven and the heat is reduced to about 325°. After an hour, the may get a well-trimmed roast of aged and tender meat, and it is pos-
cover can be removed-to let the direct heat crisp up the meat; the sible to get such good grade B beef. However, if you doubt that look
ribs can be turned over at this time, and more wine-or whatever- in his eye and that larcenous gleam when you mention roast, it would
can be added if needed. The point of 'braising' is that the meat cooks perhaps be wiser to go up a grade and insist on 'U.S. Good' (A), or
in the steam of the pan liquid-but is not actually in the liquid as the even go all out and demand 'U .S. Choice' (A). This last might cost
trivet or rack holds it up out of it. Another half hour of cooking, uncov- as much as $1.40 per pound, possibly less. You will De asked if you
ered, and the meat should be tender and succulent. Again we take it want a "full rib roast," or "only half." The full one would be 12 or 13
out of the pan and set it aside to keep warm, possibly in the closed ribs high (cutting varies), and would serve 18-22 persons. A 6 rib
oven, where we have turned off the heat. roast will generously carve out 8-11 diners. Some cooks prefer the
We remove the rack, or trivet, or plate, from the roast pan, and heavy butt end, others the small end. And-unless you know how to
set the pan with the juices and vegs. on a stove-top burner, over do it, have Butch make it oven-ready. This means that the excess fat
medium heat. As this boils up we skim as much of the fat from the top is trimmed away, the "strap" and "plate" are taken out, the chine bone
as possible. A few tomatoes, or tomato pieces, can be added, and a is taken off-then tied back on-and the whole roast is carefully and
little MSG. Then a tablespoonful or two of flour is sprinkled across solidly tied up. A thought, here; you'd better order your roast several
the top of this sauce; heat is reduced and it is cooked together for· .days, even a week ahead; this will give the butcher time to select and
about 15 minutes. With a wire whip, we stir it all briskly together prepare it for you.
to remove any lumps from the flour-which should be absorbed by any Put the roast into a roast pan, as is, fat side up; this goes into the
remaining grease. Also-with the whip-dig all the burned brown bits oven at 450° for about 20 minutes. Then, turn the meat over, rib side
from the sides and bottom of the pan, into the sauce. This is then up, for another 20 minutes. This should brown it a little and sear the

102 103
 meat so that the juices won't run out. (Ooo! we remembered some- looks darkly rich as before. Strain this hot liquid through a hair strainer
thing else: we assume that the meat wasn't just out of the icebox and -or a comer of the dishtowel or other light cloth-into another pan.
very cold, when you slipped it into the stove! Heavens, quel damage; If any fat should rise-skim it off. This is your AU JUS, for the Roast
nope, if you've had it in your box-better let it sit out on the table or Beef. It should be rich brown, and just slightly thicker than water,
whatever, for about an hour before roasting, so that it is about room with no fat, and a rich meaty flavor.
temperature when you throw it in the oven.) To get back, throw a And there you have your Roast Prime Ribs of Beef, au Jus-just
handful of salt and pepper on the roast, turn the fat side up again, like uptown-only better because you prepared it with your own little
0
reduce the heat to 325 and roast 2 hours for "rare to medium." Turn
, hands. Hmmmm! With it are served either roast or baked potatoes,
meat over a couple of times during roasting. Now this ,is-say-a 10 lb. and at least one good vegetable. We recommend fresh asparagus or
roast; an 18-20 lb. roast of prime rib would take at least 3 hours at this broccoli-either with Hollandaise Sauce (see "Vegetables," and
low heat, after that first 40 minutes. Many cooks advocate a faster "Sauces"). With all this we like to drink a full-bodied Burgundy, such
cooking at higher heat; we contend that the slower heat and slightly as a Mountain Red, or a Pinot Noir from one of the great California
longer time cooks the roast more evenly, and certainly reduces shrink- wineries.
age. For our Hr lb, roast of beef, the total cooking time would be Another smart kitchen trick (they don't all have to be handled in
2 hrs. and 40 min. Also, and this is very important, the cooked roast the boudoir) comes after the Prime Rib has been eaten. Save those rib
should 'set' for at least 30 minutes after it comes from the OVenbefore bones and any tiny scraps of trimmings from the roast (not fats); cover
carving. So-( ya gotta figure all these things )-if dinner is to be at these with water in a pan and bring almost to a boil. Reduce heat and
7:00, we must slip the meat into the oven about 3:45; out of the oven simmer for 2-3 hours. Do not boil the bones, as intense heat will release
at 6:30; and at 7 :00 we remove the strings, the loose chine-bone, stand calcium from them and make the stock cloudy and unusable. If avail-
it up and carve it. able, toss into this pot any parts of old onion, carrot; celery, tomato
For the last hour of cooking time,-in this case from 5:30 to 6:30- ends, garlic, etc. After simmering 3 or 4 hours, strain the liquid off,
throw in a couple of stalks of celery, coarsely cut up, an old tired skim away any fat. Cool it-and put it away in glass jars in the 'fridge
carrot or two, a couple of quartered onions, and 3 or 4 big buds of for future use. What is it? That's the 'stock' we've mentioned so often,
garlic. Also, add about a pint of warmed liquid; this can be stock, or (and in case you'd be interested, it's called dashi in Japanese) and has
bouillon or consomme (canned), even water; we use leftover coffee! a slight odor of fish and seaweed there. Stock is always needed for
To keep the meat out of this liquid, we lift it up gently and slip in gravies, soups, sauces and so on. After all, when you first purchased
that trivet under it, in the bottom of the roast pan. that piece of meat, the cost must have jolted you somewhat. So, you
AU JUS. When the roast is finally taken from the pan, and removed certainly want to get the last possible bit of goodness out of it, don't
to 'set' in another pan or on a platter, and covered with a cloth in some you? (What? The Roast, sillyl )
place out of a draft; we put the roaster pan, with all the juices and
vegetables without the trivet or rack, right on the stove-top over
ROAST PORK
medium heat. Scrape down the pan, getting all the brown stuff into
the juices; a little more stock or consomme may be added here. Let it When the weather's nippy, there's nothing for reviving the spirit
boil up for a few minutes. Then strain into a saucepan, discarding the like a few HOT BUTTERED RUMS. In a mug or heavy old-fashioned
vegetables. Let this "juice" sit a minute or so, then carefully skim all glass, put a scant teaspoon of sugar, a whole clove, and an inch of zesty
the fat from the surface-and there'll be quite a lot of it. You do this lemon rind; muddle this a little, then pour in )~oz. of overproof (151
easily with a small ladle. (Ya know what a ladle is Winnie Mae? proof) Jamaica rum; IJ~-2 oz. of Puerto Rican Rum (80-90 proof).
That's a soup scoop!). Boil up the fat-free juice again, taste it for Stir together, leaving spoon in cup; add nearly boiling water-( some
seasoning; maybe add a dollop of Kitchen Bouquet (for color), or a Colonials use hot tea) -about 3 oz. Float a small pat of butter on top;
spoonful of Soy Sauce. Or to intensify the beef flavor you could stir set the mug, glass, or whatever, in a saucer: go and sit down comfort-
in a spoon or two of meat extract (such as Bovril or B.V.). Now, while ably, and Well! Two or three of these late at night can lead to any-
the juice is at a near boil, and you have about 3 cups of it; dissolve a thing!
slightly rounded Tbs. of Cornstarch in 3 Tbs. of cold water. Stir this Wonderful for dinner, in this same type weather, is a ROAST LEG
into the slowly boiling juice; stir steadily until it "clears," and the juice OF FRESH PORK. Order from your butcher a couple of days ahead;

104 105

L
 you want about 10-11 pounds, and tell him you want it 'boned, rolled in his kitchen comer. Fresh pork hams or legs are pickled in a sweet
and tied. He will remove the skin, take out the bones, and then tie it brine; the butch then calls them sweet-pickled pork legs, or-S.P. Hams.
all up tightly in a nice rolled roast. This will be all meat, though he'll The meat is pinkish, but still has the fresh taste; we'd say they are
make you pay for the skin and bones too. (That's the way it goes ... about half way between fresh pork and ham. (We trust that clears
you don't always actually get all the meat you pay for.) that upl ) The S.P. ham is not cooked as you buy it, so first it must be
At Happy House we roast pork about the same as we do beef (see simmered for an hour or so. This means that it goes into a large pot and
Prime Ribs); first we brown it well in a very hot oven and on all sides is covered with liquid. Plain water will do, with some onion, garlic, a
(about 40 minutes); then reduce heat to 325° and roast for 3 hours or bay leaf, a couple stalks of celery; but here is an opportunity to get
slightly longer. Pork has to be cooked thoroughly, so it takes longer some real flavorsome meat. The S.P. ham can be simmered in cider or
than beef. When we reduce the heat, we toss on a small handful of champagne for that matter; or in orange and/or pineapple juice, or
salt and pepper, and a small handful-2 or 3 Tbs.-of grated fresh gin- even in wine. We have done them in Burgundy, and they were very
ger root (to be found in some produce markets, usually those operated tasty when finished.
by Orientals); for the last hour we toss in some chopped onion, garlic, The ham cooks on the stove at a good steady simmer-not a boil;
celery, and at least a couple of chopped green apples-skin, core, and an average size ham takes about l)~ hours for this part of the cooking;
all. We also add 2 or 3 cups of stock or bouillon. The pork roast should too fast cooking or too long cooking will make the meat fall all apart,
be turned several times during cooking. When it is done-and a long so it must be watched. The ham is then carefully taken from the pot
fork or skewer jabbed into the middle won't 'run pink--we take it out and is set aside to drain for about a half hour; then it goes into the
of the oven and set the meat aside on another pan to 'set'. Then we roast pan, with the fat side up. Mustard, cloves, paprika, brown sugar
make the gravy; first bringing all the stuff in the pan to a slow boil, on are rubbed on, and the ham is baked in a 350°-375° oven for about 40
top of the stove. We skim away almost all of the fat that rises, and minutes, or just long enough to make a nice crisp glaze on it. A Port
sprinkle the surface of the juices with a little flour-about 2 Tbs. We wine sauce is very good with this. (See Chapt. 9) The liquid left from
let this absorb grease for a few minutes, then whip the lumps out. We boiling the ham, if it is mostly wine or fruit juice, may be strained, the
strain all this into a saucepan, discarding the vegetables. The sauce- fat taken off, and the liquid can be bottled and put away in the fridge
or gravy-can also set for a few minutes; any grease that rises is
for future use.
skimmed away. Taste for seasoning; add a Tablespoon or two of Soy
or Worcestershire sauce, and taste. Pepper may be added if needed,
BAKED HAM
and a Tbs. of MSG will accent the flavor. This should be a moderately
thin-bodied gravy, rather light brown, and richly meaty in flavor. Not too many years ago, you were offered-in the butcher's-either
With the roast pork we like plain, boiled, sweet potatoes; (no a 'cured' ham or one of those 'new-fangled tenderized' hams. The cured
marshmallows, orange, syrup, molasses, maple syrup, or any of that ham was literally that; it had been cured and smoked, etc., but still
goop-God forbid!) We boil the sweets in their washed skins; when required cooking. It first had to be 'boiled' (actually simmered}, then
tender-about 50 minutes we take 'em out and peel 'em, and that's the baked and glazed in the oven. Nowadays almost all commercially sold
way we serve 'em with pork. A green vegetable and a good green salad hams are tenderized or pre-cooked; and really only require heating
with tomatoes and a tart dressing, seem to go well; apple sauce, or just through and glazing. Also, the old smoking and curing processes have
plain stewed apples are usually on hand. We also like a spicy dish of gone into the discard too; now, ham is injected with chemicals, dipped
bold pickled beets with this. All these things seem to accent nicely in other chemicals, and the whole process can be done in a matter of
the richness of the pork. hours in place of months it once took. The resultant product is certainly
edible; it may be questioned as to whether it is as good as the 'old way.'
Some 'cured' hams (not tenderized) are still available; best make sure
ROAST PICKLED PORK when you buy a ham just what you've got. If it is tenderized-and per-
Here is one that is not too well known; it is usually a little cheaper haps this is best for our compact-kitchen chef-it will only be necessary
than fresh pork, and is very different in texture, color, and flavor. To to remove the heavy pigskin, leaving a nice even layer of white fat.
prepare you'll need quite a large pot and a large roasting-pan; this may This fat should be trimmed where it is thickest so that there is an even
not be the entree for the bachelor boy (or girl ... or whatever) to do layer over all. The fat can be scored (cut in a cross strips), spree --1. with

106 107
brown sugar, cloves, mustard, etc., and baked for an hour at about 350°, butchers call it yearling lamb, with the end result that considerable
or until it is heated through. If, for the last half hour, the ham is basted mutton is sold for lamb. In England, mutton is very popular just now
with honey, and the heat raised a bit, your ham will have a handsome as a table meat; in fact, it is most favored by the present Queen.
and flavorful glaze. Of course, you can get as artistic as all hell with (What's that, Sue Ellen? Yes, we agree, some of those Limey queens
this thing; it may be studded with cloves, or with pineapple or other are real "meshugah!") Anyway, the best English mutton is fed on sweet
fruits set into the fat and then glazed over, and so on. Ham has a nice grass, while most of ours is range-fed; this makes for a tougher and
thing going with oranges; glazed with marmalade instead of honey, stronger meat.
and using the drippings (with the grease removed) for the base of a An average sized leg of lamb, or even of yearling lamb will run
good orange sauce-makes for a jazzy meal. about 5)~-6J~lbs, it should have good even white fat; (the fat yellows
Regardless of how your ham is decorated, it will need a good sauce as it grows older), and the bone will be small and brightly white with
to serve with it. There are many of these, including; raisin, cherry, red at the center. (Always inspect the bone before buying we always
wine, pineapple or other fruits, and so on. Many simple sauces for ham say.) Have the butcher take out the H bone, remove the skin (called a
can be made by simply using a jam, or jelly, and diluting it with the "fell"), and trim off excess fat. Then he can either tie or skewer the
juices from the pan, after the excess fat has been removed. A simple roast, and the leg of lamb is oven ready. Many cooks make small slits
ORANGE SAUCE is made by mixing 2 cups of marmalade with ~4lb. in the meat with a sharp knife and stick in small pieces of garlic; some
of butter, heating them together in a double boiler. We take all the work in a few mint leaves in the same way.
pan juices being sure the fat is skimmed away, and add them to this The leg of lamb is roasted as we do other roasts, (the reader will
hot sauce. If the sauce is a little too thick, we thin with a very little have noted by now, a general over-all method in our madness) but
white wine. The pan juices added to cranberry sauce (canned), and the lamb will take considerably less time. It goes into a 400° oven for
thinned with a little red wine-make a fine ham sauce. no more than 30 minutes, to be lightly browned on all sides; the heat
To make the BAKED HAM even simpler these days, there are the is reduced to 325°, some coarsely chopped vegetables are added to the
canned hams. Some of these are very good-some are not so good; but roast pan with a very little liquid, (stock, or cider, white wine or even
these also come in small (handy!) sizes as well as large ones; the smaIl plain water). It is best, of course, that the meat sits on a plate or on
ones heat quickly, are all edible and so are handy to have on hand. that small wire rack or trivet to just keep it out of the liquid; there
You can simply uncan them, put in a pan, put sugar, etc. on them, and should only be about half an inch of the liquid in the pan, or less.
heat them through quickly in the oven. The sauce is up to you. The average 61b. roast of lamb will be cooked just right in anpther
hour, (this is l)~ hours altogether); if the meat is young, this will cook
ROAST LEG OF LAMB it through with just a faint tinge of pink mostly at the center near the
bone when carved. If the meat is older, a little more time may be advis-
Lamb is a meat that is in disfavor with many Westerners. And of able. In any case a total cooking time of 2 hrs. should be the maximum;
course, every Westerner has heard the stories about the lonely sheep- more than that and the delicate lamb would dry out.
herders; the inferences point to a sort of incestuous cannibalism in For the last hour, a good handful of chopped mint leaves can go
partaking of the succulent sheep. Of late years, however, more sophisti- into the juices of the roast pan; also a few oregano leaves. We make
cated Westerners have developed a taste for lamb. This all is a little the lamb gravy as we did for other roasts (see Prime Ribs) being sure
ridiculous, as lamb has been the/rinciPal meat of a large part of the to skim away as much fat as possible before adding the flour. We use
civilized world since man learne to cook. Lamb and mutton are still flour sparingly here,as lamb gravy should be rather thin-bodied, and
nearly the only meat eaten throughout the extensive Near East. No as 'clear' as possible. A good dash of Kitchen Bouquet onto the surface
other meat is so easily digestible, none so full of its own savor. While of any roast while it is roasting, will greatly improve the color and
mutton is much enjoyed in Great Britain, it is in France (alleged home appearance of the roast and of the gravy from it. As with other roasts,
of fine cuisine) that lamb comes into its own as the epitome of fine the leg of lamb should 'set' for at least 20 minutes before carving; this
roasted meat. In America the young sheep is sold as lamb up to a year gives the cook a nice opportunity to make the gravy. Browned potatoes,
old, though young lamb on the Continent is used much younger than fresh peas, sliced tomatoes with some chopped fresh basil sprinkled
we care to slaughter. Also, with us a lamb over a year old is called a over them, and a very simple French dressing all go very well with
yearling; more properly, this is actually yearling mutton, but those sly the Roast Leg of Lamb. Often a savory stuffing is cooked separately,
108 109
and served with the meat. Actually this is more of an attempt to build ping at the top. The roll is then tied round with string about every inch.
up the portion on the plate, rather than a true roast accompaniment. We use two small, thin rib chops also, tying these on at the ends so that
(See Santa Fe Lamb). the filling won't come out as the roll is roasted. We like to prepare this
STUFFING for lamb. This can be any savory stuffing or dressing; for rolled and stuffed roast the day before, setting it in the icebox over-
lamb-which has a distinct flavor of its own, we favor one that is ~s night.
cooked rice; ~~cooked Kasha; }f lightly cooked vegetables. The rice is To cook, we brown the roll lightly on all sides, taking about 20 min-
just-cooked and separate-grained; and the same for the Kasha (see utes at 425° oven heat; then we reduce heat to 325 and roast about
0

Chapter 11 for more about Kasha ), and the vegetables include, (for 1 r hour, possibly a very little more, but hardly more than 1Jf hour total
cup each of rice and kasha) a little less than ~ c. of chopped onion, ~~c. roasting time. To serve, we remove the chops at each end- (we serve
of chopped celery; 2-3 chopped green onions; 1 or 2 large buds fresh 'em, of course) -and slice the roll in 1 inch slices with a very sharp
garlic-minced; ~f of a medium green pepper-chopped; }f of a green knife. We suggest that the strings be not removed 'til after the roast is
apple-chopped. These vegetables are lightly fried in a skillet with a sliced; this will hold in shape what is not cut at once.
little butter, to not-quite-soft; then they'll make a good cupful. They This is a very delicious roast, and to make it even more so, we use
are mixed with the kasha and rice; salt; pepper; 1 tsp. MSG; 1 tsp. a slightly modified stuffing. For this rolled roast of lamb New Mexican
Baking Powder; 11 small egg beaten with 2 Tbs. undiluted canned milk; style (Santa Fe) we use ~~cup each of cooked rice and cooked
all this is worked lightly together, put into a greased caserole or small kasha, add 1 cup of pine nuts (you buy these at most health food
loaf pan. Covered with a heavy waxed paper or sheet of foil, it goes stores; get the skinned ones), a cup of mixed chopped and lightly
into the oven with the roast of lamb after the heat is reduced to 325°. cooked celery, onion, apple, and green pepper. Also, 1 egg, 2 Tbs.
For the last 30 minutes remove paper or foil to brown top of dressing. canned milk, salt and pepper, a tsp. of MSG. To this we add a few
Serve dressing on hot service plate, cover with slices of the lamb, then crumbled leaves of oregano. This stuffing is exceptionally delicious and
gravy. This makes your small leg of lamb go further, and is exception- savory; you'll like it, as well as (he lamb.
ally tasty. A popular and often inexpensive lamb roast is a square shoulder;
this is trimmed by your butcher, who will also cut a pocket in it. We
SADDLE OF LAMB (or MUTTON )-Santa Fe Style use either of these fine lamb stuffings with this, and tie or skewer it
together; then roast it. Mighty fine scoffing!
At a certain hotel in New Mexico, they must have Indian cooks;
their roasts of lamb or mutton are flavored with the country-and are
POT ROAST OF BEEF
out-of-this-world delicious. We serve an adaption of one of these occa-
sionally and guests scream for more! (Roast Lamb!) We buy a saddle This is always a happy favorite, is tasty, and not too expensive. Best
of yearling lamb. This piece is about 10 inches long, weighs-before to buy for the pot roast are shoulder clad or bottom round though some
trimming-6 or 7 lbs, This saddle is the whole loin, including the chops, cooks prefer top-round. (Much more expensive!) This last is a chunky
backbone, and some small bones at each side. Each side is still attached 'half-moon' shaped piece of beef, has no bone and very little fat. If the
to the backbone at the center, forming a loose horseshoe, or collar. whole 'top' is purchased, ask the butcher to cut it in half, tying each
Incidentally, it is always much cheaper to buy a whole 'hind-quarter' side up into a roll of meat. Similarly, both the clod and the bottom
of lamb at once. This will have the two legs and the saddle. The saddle round are usually too large; for the pot roast these are best halved
can be split and each side cut into fine thick chops; we prefer to use and tied into two tight rolls. Bottom round is usually the least expensive
it this way. Your butcher will (if properly coaxed and given time) 'bone of all these.
out' the saddle by carefully taking out the backbone and the side bones, The rolls of meat are well browned in a roast pan in a very hot 450°
leaving only meat, connected at the top-or center-by skin and fat. The oven. Then the roast is put into a large, heavy pot-a Dutch oven is
skirts of this (or flanks) at either side are cut to about 10 inches from ideal; the meat is amply covered with liquid. This may be stock, or
the center, at each side. The thin skin of the lamb is removed from the canned bouillon, or water. A couple of quartered onions are tossed in,
outside of the meat; any excess fat is taken off. Laid flat, with the inside a few stalks of celery, several split buds of garlic, a carrot or two, and
(meat) up, the stuffing is put evenly into the center to replace the a bay leaf. During cooking a few old tomato ends, or even a small can
bones; the flanks are brought up on each side to contain it, overlap- of tomato sauce may be added or that reluctant-to-come-out last inch

no 111
 in the bottom of the catsup bottle. The pot is brought to a slow boil, bouillon. All of the vegetables, etc., (not the pickling spices) of the
the heat then reduced so there is just a steady simmer, and the meat marinade are added to the pot, with about half of the marinade liquid
is cooked until fork tender. This may be 2 or 3 hours, depending on itself. (Put the rest of this sweet-pickling liquid in a tight-topped glass
the meat. For the first half hour or so a scum will rise to the surface jar and put it away in the icebox for other uses.) The sauerbraten is
and should be skimmed away. Liquid should always be at least 2 inches then cooked just as is pot roast, though as the meat has been partly
over the meat; the extra gravy you will make will always be handy. tenderized by its soaking in the wine, etc., it will be more tender and
When the meat is tender, it is taken out of the liquid and set aside not take so long to cook. The gravy is thickened in the same way as we
to keep warm. A little roux is made in a skillet, using about 3 Tbs. did for the pot roast; German cooks use only about half as much flour-
flour and a like amount of fat. This is stirred together in the pan over fat thickener as suggested, and then crumble a dozen or so gingersnaps
mad heat until rather dry. Then liquid from the pot is gradually worked into the fiinished gravy, letting it simmer a few minutes, and whipping
in until a heavy paste is formed. This is all put through a strainer into them into it. They also are very liable to add a few fat raisins to the
the stew liquid with the vegetables is then cooked for about 10-15 min- gravy along with the cookies; sometimes a few gratings of lemon rind.
utes. Then the whole content is strained off into another pot, discarding Sauerbraten is classically served with Kartofjel Pfannkuchen, oder
the vegetables, etc. The gravy is let 'set' for a few minutes; if any fat Klosse- (Potato Pancakes or dumplings) and with Rote Kohl (spiced
rises it is skimmed away. If the gravy seems to be a bit pale, a dollop red cabbage) ; it's dandy with mashed potato, or buttered noodles.
of Kitchen Bouquet or of Soy Sauce is stirred in to darken it. The gravy As this chapter is all about meat-( yes, dear, and you love it!) we're
is tasted for seasoning; salt and pepper, maybe a tsp. of MSG, may be just gonna have to be a bit briefer from here on, because we've got a lot
added. This gravy should be strongly meaty in flavor, smooth and rich. of meat to take care of yet!
What is not used with the served pot roast, will keep nicely in the
icebox for other uses; brown gravy is always handy to have on hand.
CORNED BEEF
The pot roast is sliced; it is best served with the gravy and mashed
potato or buttered noodles-a real home-style American dish. If desired, This is one meat that almost everyone likes, and it is as good
some red wine may be worked into the gravy liquid just before it is cold as it is hot; for a sandwich or a main dish meal. The trick is to buy
thickened; if the wine is to be used, it is suggested that the tomato only first-grade corned beef briskets to start with; cheap ones will
be omitted. Very popular with some Old Country people, is a 'sweet- usually be tough, stringy meat and that's the way they'll be when
and-sour' gravy; this is easily done with about J~ cup of lemon juice and cooked. Be safe, buy good briskets, even if they do cost more. Plan
half a cup of brown sugar whipped into a couple quarts of the finished (and buy), at least 1 lb. per person to be served.
gravy. This does give an added piquancy to the served meat; or one We use our biggest pot for corned beef; put the meat in it and
can, with only a little more trouble, make a real German-style sauer- almost fill the pot with cold water. Toss in a couple of quartered onions,
braten. at least 6 large, peeled garlic buds, a few stalks of celery, a few peeled
carrots, a bay leaf, at least a dozen whole cloves, a half cup of brown
SAUERBRATEN
sugar, and turn on the fire. Bring to a slow boil; reduce heat to a good
Briefly, the same meat is used as for pot roast (see above); and it strong simmer, and cook 'til fork tender. Depending on size of meat-
is similarly tied in rolls. These are put into a deep crock or glass bowl and its processing-this may take from 2 or 4 hours. The vegetables
- (anything non-metal) -or enamel vessel, and covered with a mari- may be fished out of tl1e liquid and cut up, later to be served with the
nade, (several quarts of it), part of which will be red wine, some vine- meat; save 'em in a little of the stuck until used. The briskets (or pieces
gar, salt, cracked pepper, coarsely-chopped onion, garlic, celery, etc. of corned beef) are carefully taken out of the pot and are allowed to
Some cooks toss in a small cloth bag of pickling spices, most add a few drain, then put aside in a slightly warm place until needed; they may
whole cloves and a cupful of brown sugar. The crock of meat and mari- be covered with a cloth wet in some of the pot liquid, if they are to be
nade is kept in a cool place, covered with a cloth, far 2 or 3 days, the held any length of time. The rest of the pot liquor is strained of the
meat being turned over and around twice each day. spices, etc. These are discarded. Half of this liquor may be used to
To cook, the meat is first well drained, then it is browned in a cook fresh cabbage cut in 8ths, and the other half is used to boil peeled
skillet in a little fat,-and so to the big heavy pot. About half of the potatoes. When the potatoes and cabbage are cooked, the beef is sliced
cooking liquid should be a strong beef stock, or canned consomme or with a sharp knife and arranged in the center of a large platter sur-
112 113
rounded by the carrots and celery. The potatoes and cabbage 'are best often then break down and go all gay as he adds with a slight lisp,
served in separate dishes, which are passed. Also, lots of fresh hot " ... and a STRONG cherry phosphate." Oh well, it takes all kinds,
mustard, as well as thick slices of a good fresh rye bread seem to be in we always say. Where were we ... ?
order. This meal is even more marvy with lots of iced beer. At the butchers, tongue may be purchased fresh or pickled; this
last means that it has been processed much as corned beef, and we
CORNED BEEF HASH - At Happy House, we use: think it is preferable to fresh. Cooking the pickled tongue is done
almost exactly as is corned beef (glance back a couple of recipes.)
4 cups coarsely chopped corned beef (cooked)
The tongue is put into a big pot of cold water; the same vegetables are
1 to n~cup chopped cooked potato
added; same spices, etc. (See Corned Beef.) In fact, if your pot is
3~cup chopped onion
truly big a tongue could be easily cooked right along with the corned
2 large buds garlic-minced
% cup green pepper-chopped beef brisket.
When the tongue is fork tender after 2-3 hours of slow boiling, it
1 tsp. use
is taken out of the pot liquid (use a skimmer instead of a fork for this),
salt
plunged into cold water and immediately skinned. The rough-looking
coarse-ground Black Pepper
skin over the whole tongue will peel off readily; two small bones at the
1 egg
big end are removed and this end is trimmed of excess fat, etc. The
3-4 tbs. frying fat or bacon grease
tongue is now cooked and ready for many uses.
o Mix these items together; beat egg well, add it and mix thoroughly. Slices of tongue may be heated in any gravy or rich sauce, or they
May be baked in pan in 350° oven for 45 minutes or lightly pan- may be simply heated in a little water, drained and served as is,
fried on stove in heavy skillet. If pan-fried, onions, garlic, peppers, usually with fresh, cooked, leaf spinach; cabbage; broccoli; or other
should be lightly fried before adding to hash. When pan-frying, green vegetable. Tongue is very tasty if the whole thing is heated
and a nice crust forms, the panful should be dexterously 'Hipped' again in the oven, and is basted for a little while (15-20 minutes) with
(this may take a little practice-but what the hell, the stove prob- a piquant sauce such as a wine or barbecue sauce. If you have some
ably needed cleaning anyway) to crust the other side. Slide out 'saved' sweet-and-sour gravy, or some sauce left from sauerbraten,
onto a hot platter, garnish with tart pickled beets, and serve lots these go very well with the cooked tongue.
of catsup alongside. Or, the mixed hash may be formed into indi- Needless to add, sliced cold tongue is fine with other cold meats;
vidual patties, and these fried. The meat need not necessarily be is delicious in sandwiches; cut in jullienne strips it goes into many
left-over corned beef; good corned beef comes in cans, but be sure salads, and so on. Wrapped in a piece of foil and kept in a cool part
you buy corned beef and not prepared (it says!) corned beef of the icebox, tongue will keep almost indefinitely; it can also be frozen,
hash; this may be unseasoned and often largely potato. but must be very carefully thawed afterwards, by simply sitting in a
cool place and covered with a towel for several hours. If not completely
Men adore real, genuine, honest to Gawd Corned Beef Hash; let's
thawed through, any heat applied may sour it. (Nothing's as sad as
make 'em happy.
a sour tongue l )
TONGUE
This is a fine meat, and like so many others is greatly over-looked HEART
in this country while very popular in almost every other land. Of Beef, veal and even lamb hearts are -inexpensive meats; these are
course, any mention of tongue does sort of throw some persons into usually stuffed with some savory filling, and are braised or slow-baked.
a tizzy; personally, we always think at once of that stalwart soul who More mundane cookbooks sometimes offer recipes for cooking heart;
dares to swish into the corner drugstore, (be it Schwab's in Hollywood though frankly, not too many people eat this nutritive meat in this
or one of those mad Eastern Walgreen's) settles his largest (and pos- country. Everybody just wants steaks-when it comes to meat! (Well,
sibly best!) feature on a stool, and looking the waitress (male or fe- not quite everybody.)
male) straight in the eye without blushing, orders: "a tongue sand- Another inexpensive meat, and one eaten as a delicacy in almost
wich, a fruit salad and don't forget the nuts!" Unfortunately, he'll every other country, is TRIPE. Tripe is the stomach of a cow; at the

114 115
butcher's it has been steam-cleaned and lightly cooked. It is trimmed many commercial bottled "liquid smokes" ( ... and one is elegantly
and ready for the long cooking it will require at home. Tripe is the called a pyrolyganous acid) are inferior-the flavor just cooks right out.
best known dietetic source of calcium, and is heartily recommended Also many so-called "carbon briquets" (for outdoor fires) are made
by all doctors and dieticians and it's real tasty. More important, it's an of crude waste oil products, and meats or stuff cooked over them will
inexpensive meat. The French can really coo over tripes a la mode taste as if they have been dragged through the grease pit down at the
d'Caen, Mexican gourmets (peons too) scream for Menuda, a stand- comer service station. So, now you have been warned; get Wright's
ard Mexican home-styled tripe dish, almost always on the back of the liquid Smoke, and bum only genuine hardwood charcoal, if cooking
stove in any real Mexican restaurant. Italians go to Rome only for out.
Trippa alla Roma. Icelanders love it; Nehru says it's his favorite-and Anyway, a generally usable BARBECUE SAUCE could contain
so on. Americans won't eat it. But it's good! There is one great draw- (about) :
back; tripe must be cooked long and slowly.
You cut the tripe into squares or into fingers or strips about X" by 3" 1pt. tomato puree salt, brown sugar, chili pow-
long; and put them into plenty of cold water with a quartered onion, 1c. red or white dry wine der, MSG.,
a couple of buds of garlic, a bay leaf, and (most important) a lemon !~c. cider vinegar and half as much, EACH:
cut in half. This keeps the meat white; do NOT add salt (at this time), a small handful (2 or 3 Tbs.) mustard, paprika, cumin,
this makes tripe discolor. The tripe is cooked at a very low boil for EACH: garlic, powder, etc.
4 to 6 hours, with the pot covered most of that time. When tender
to a fork, the tripe is drained, and is ready to be made up into other
dishes. It may be held for awhile in cold water. Combined with a good Soy sauce (use less salt) molasses, honey, and such things as
Spanish Sauce, it becomes a fine Tripe Creole, served with steamy grated ginger root, minced onion and garlic, coarse-ground black
rice; or the pieces of tripe may be quickly breaded and deep-fried, etc. pepper; any or all of these, and regardless of what else included
Cold cooked tripe may be pickled with cucumbers or beets and served you'll need:
chilled as a delicious appetizer or salad. We hasten to add that the 1 to 2 Tbs. Liquid Smoke.
classic French and Mexican styles are not done in this manner. Anyway,
tripe is really good eating-and it's good for you. It is not suggested that you use all these items in a Barbecue
sauce-though you could; but, the puree is usually used as a base;
we believe that wine and vinegar are good flavors and actually
BARBECUE are meat tenderizers. Some cooks add a certain amount of cooking
Here is another subject about which many, many books and articles ( or olive) oil to their mixes: sugar helps to brown the item cooked,
have been written and published; we will only say that barbecuing is and so on. If you don't have a favorite mixture for Barbecue Sauce,
a fine, American (adapted) cooking process. At one time, we are told, just ask almost anyone-they will have!
real barbecuing was done over pits of slow fire, etc.; nowadays it all The barbecue can easily be prepared in the oven, and then it may
seems to be done with mirrors or something. be served "out of doors," where the cook-fire is nastily smoking up the
This reminds us, did any of you ever ... er ... "work" in one of neighbors but isn't really doing much cooking. And, while we're at it-
those mirrored rooms? Mirrors on the ceilings, the walls, everywhere? most men like well-prepared Barbecued meats. Try some:
Gawd! You feel surrounded. We know someone up in the Hollywood BARBECUED PORK SPARERIBS. We won't attempt to list quan-
Hills who has a cabinet like that. Man! Even doing plain sewing, you tities here, other than to suggest that you'll need 1 lb. to l~ lb. of
ain't alone. Well! Where were we again ... Oh, the Barbecue bit ... trimmed ribs for each generous serving, and at least a quart of Bar-
These days you don't need a pit of slow-burning and expensive becue Sauce for 4 servings.
hardwoods on which to barbecue: Ya' make a sauce (see any modem The thawed-out (but not cut up) ribs are marinated in the sauce
cookbook, magazine, even newspaper: they're lousy with barbecue overnight or longer; taken out of the sauce, the ribs are put into a
sauces, and some of 'em really are!) All these sauces have a little com- roast pan-or pans-in a single layer. These go into a 4500 oven for 10
mercial liquid smoke in them, and this does the trick; gives the stuff minutes on each side. The oven heat is reduced to 3250, and the ribs
that "outsy, doorsy" flavor. While we're on this subject let us add that are slow-roasted (uncovered, of course) for about an hour. They are

116 117
 turned and basted with the sauce frequently; a higher heat and failure LIVER
to baste, will dry up the meat. (Nothing, but nothing is worse than
dried-up meat, no matter how succulent the bone may be!) These ribs Most people either like liver very much-or won't eat it at all. Doc-
are served (now you cut' em into 3-4 rib sections) with some of the tors and dieticians recommend it highly, as it is full of vitamins and
sauce, and possibly a good dish of Mexican beans. Refritos are wonder- minerals, is almost pure protein, and has no fat. For some reason, many
ful with ribs: so are plain baked yams with butter or some of the pan cooks do not cook liver properly, feeling that it is desired 'well done'
grease on them. or at least with no pinkishness at Its center. Therefore, the liver is
At Happy House, we like a sort of HAWAIIAN treatment. We cut usually over-cooked. This is one meat that invariably toughens the
up the spareribs before marinating, (using small ribs,) into 2 rib sec- more it is cooked. Experienced professional cooks know the trick of
tions, then marinate these overnight. For sauce (marinade) we use avoiding this and still serve liver that is cooked through, but is tender.
puree, wine, vinegar, oil, soy sauce, dark molasses, pepper, grated Some cooks soak the sliced liver in milk or buttermilk for a few minutes
fresh gingerroot, MSG, a small can of crushed pineapple. Cooking as before cooking, claiming that this 'does it'. Maybe it helps, but the
above, we add at least half of the marinade to the roast pan after knowing professional way is to lightly Hour the liver; have a heavy
browning the ribs; then as they cook, more is added as we stir the ribs pan hot and with a little very hot fat in it; put in the liver, cook 2-3
about. Turning each piece of the cut up ribs is not very practical, so minutes on one side to brown. Turn the liver over and cover the pan
we just stir 'em up in the sauce, which does at once. In 3-4 minutes more, the liver will be cooked through, with
not quite cover them in the pan. After the no pink showing, and it will be still tender. Why ... ? Simple. The
ribs are nicely browned, and the meat on 'em steam accumulating in the covered pan cooks through the meat, not
is tender, we skim the ribs out of the pan just on the surfaces of it. Try it this way-and enjoy Havorful, tender
and set them aside for a few minutes in a liver.
warm place. We pour all the sauce out of Admittedly, liver is now quite expensive ... you know those gar-
the roaster, adding it to the reserved mari- rulous old types who "remember when the butcher gave it away free
nade. We let all this sit for a few minutes to customers for the cat." He would send it along with the delivery;
(while we have a cold beer)-then carefully many an old pussy has much to thank the butcherboy for.
skim away all the fat that rises to the surface Something that many home-shoppers don't know: while currently
of the sauce. This heated sauce may be genuine calves' liver may cost 1.20 lb., and even supposedly 'baby
slightly thickened by bringing it to a near beef' liver may cost .85 lb. or more, fresh pork liver will cost about
boil, and working in a teaspoon or so of corn- .40 lb., and fresh lamb liver about .25 to .30 lb. Pork liver is sometimes
starch (don't overdo this cornstarch bit: a strong (we think), but small lamb livers (the whole liver is about B~
lightly rounded teaspoonful in 2 Tbs. of cold lbs) are wonderful and cannot be detected from fine calf liver. As
water will thicken a pint-2 cups-of any with all livers, it must be skinned, and- the tubes cut out. To easily
liquid, to gravy consistency. It may seem to skin any liver, just plunk it into a pan of very hot water or under the
take a minute to 'tighten up'<-be patient, it tap (if that water is really hot) for less than a minute; then the skin
will as the starch cooks. Just stir like mad will peel off quite easily. Frankly, a great deal of the fine calves' liver
until it clears, and there you have it. Remember the dry cornstarch is sold in good restaurants is fine lamb liver.
dissolved in cold water before being added to the hot liquid to prevent It is said that Italians got spaghetti and other pastas from China;
lumping. Allow the thickened sauce to cook just long enough for the surely some traveler from the East brought back Venice's most popu-
thickening to clear, then serve at once, 'cause dinner's ready! lar dish Fegato Venezia or-Liver, Venetian style. If you're tired of
We like these Hawaiian spareribs with pineapple rice, a good salad ordinary fried or even boiled liver (and who isn'tr ), try this one from
of greens, and some sort of fresh fruit compote for a dessert. Of course, an ages-old recipe, adapted for modems. First thing, put a pot of rice
this type meal is made much jazzier if someone is plunking at a guitar on the stove to cook. (See Chapt. 4.) Then, in a heavy skillet, put a
or a ukelele,-with everyone wearing a good coat of all-over tan, and little olive oil; when hot toss in some coarsely chopped green onion, a
a hibiscus bloom behind each ear, leis all over the place ... and aloha little chopped white or yellow onion, some minced garlic, a couple of
to you, too. stalks of celery and some green pepper, both coarsely chopped. A few

118 119
sliced fresh mushrooms will add much. Season these vegetables with ering' be done at least a day in advance, and the stock can be started
a few crumbled leaves of basil, rosemary, oregano; cover the pan and then also.
cook for about 5 minutes. Pieces of fresh, trimmed liver-calf, beef, As we are saving all bones and gristle for this stock, let's get a lot
lamb (or snatch it from the neighbor's Tom cat, for all we care) in of our preparation work done and peel some of our vegetables too.
I" cubes or pieces, are quickly seared (add a little more oil if needed) We peel the onions, garlic, carrots, saving the skins of all these. We
in the center of the pan, with the vegetables shoved to the sides. trim up our celery stalks, adding the trim cut off the base and top to
Season the meat pieces with salt and pepper; turn each piece of meat our stock vegetables. If we happen to have a few tired old tomato ends
over. After a couple of minutes, pile the vegetables onto the meat; handy, we're very happy to add these to the bones and other vege-
spoon some of the flaky-cooked rice into the sides -of the pan. Pour table trimmings. We cover all this with cold water, in a fairly large pot.
2-3 Tbs. Soy Sauce over the meat and vegetables. Cover again, and We bring this to a boil; some scum will surface, and we skim it away.
cook no more than 5 minutes longer. If you have one of those big Then we reduce the heat and simmer for 3 to 5 hours. Add a little
heavy earthen ware or pottery (fireproof) casseroles that will take more water if necessary for the first 2 or 3 hours, and cover the pot,
stove heat and has a cover, this one dish meal may be cooked and so that it will not evaporate so fast and will retain more of the flavor.
served nicely in it. We like this with a rather dry Rose wine, and a When you become tired of all this nonsense, just turn off the fire and
plain Romaine lettuce salad with a light French dressing. let it sit at the back of the stove; just reheat it when )'ou get around to
stewing your meat, the next day or whenever. Needless to say-but I
STEWS will-you take the clear broth from the bones and vegetables-OR-
you remove the b & v from the broth . . . and it's the broth you use.
These are the old standbys, and almost any tyro has an idea that The bones and vegetables are discarded.
he, she (or whatever) can toss some meat and vegetables into a pot; OLD FASHIONED STEW. There are basically two kinds of stew;
boil 'em awhile, and have a tasty meal. And cheap, too. Well, friends, an Old-fashioned, which has a white or near white liquid; and a
it just ain't that easy, and a good stew is seldom really inexpensive. Browned Stew, which (it says here) is brown. (That seems to clear
Why, just plain or cut-up stewing beef costs .85 to .95 lb. When you that up, except to say that in these modem times, we understand that
add some celery, carrots, onions, garlic, seasonings, and stock, a good our modem homebody is apt to be easily confused. With some good
bowl of steaming stew for two, can take 3-4 hours to put together, meat on hand and ready-all these decisions to make as to whether
and may cost $2.50-$3.50. So, what to do? they'd like it 'old-fashioned' or 'browned' may be just too much!) We'll
In the interests of economy, we suggest the best beef purchase for also tell you that in culinary circles, the 'browned' stew is also called
a stew, is the chuck roast (called seven-bone, five-bone, round-bone, a French Stew!
etc.'); these are often on sale for less than .50 lb., sometimes for less Put stew to cooking on stove at least 4 hours before mealtime;
than .40. Get a 3-4 lb. roast with the least fat and bone. Carefully, with cover the meat with cold water, bring it slowly to it boil, drain off
a small sharp knife, cut away most of the fat and any gristle; then cut into a colander, and wash meat under running cold water. Wash the
around close to the bones, removing them from the meat. Save these pot, then put meat back in it covered with several inches of 'stock'
bones for stock. With only lean, boneless beef left, cut it into large (of any kind, may be beef, chicken, canned consomme or bouillon,
cubes (just over 1 inch square) Bone and excess fats should be less etc., or even plain water if nothing else is at hand.) Add a few pieces
than J~ of purchased weight of roast. Sometime exceptionally meaty of celery ends, a quartered onion or two (minced if you like); a couple
and lean shortribs or crossribs will be on sale; maybe your butch has of buds of garlic, also minced; a carrot or two, cut in half; a Bay Leaf.
on hand a lot of real good meat he just doesn't know what to do with- We do not salt or season the stew at this time. Bring again to a slow
so he has a sale. (It figures, but we trust this will give no one subver- boil; reduce heat to a slow, steady simmer; cook approximately 3 hours
sive ideas.) These can sometimes be found for less than .40 lb. Same or until meat is fork-tender. Skim away any fat or scum that rises
preparation; trim away fats, carefully cut out bones; cut remaining during the first hour; keep liquid just over meat level. You will prob-
meat into chunks. Simple ... ? We sometimes don't want to buy two ably need more stock; have it warm and ready. While the stew is
of the roasts mentioned; so we get one and a couple of added shortribs cooking you may cook the vegetables. Cut celery and peeled carrots
to make just the amount of stew meat we'll need. Besides, the extra into sections or slices. Cook each in a separate pot with water to barely
bone is handy for a rich stock. It is suggested that all this 'home-butch- cover. Use no salt, rather half a tspn. of sugar in each. Prepare a pack-
120 , 121
 age of frozen peas in the same manner, also separately. Cook these 5 sufficiently. Many cooks add sections of cabbage along with the cooked
minutes in water to cover, no salt-use sugar. Drain each of these vegetables, then cook stew just until these are done. This makes a
three vegetables as it is cooked to just tender, and hold 'til needed in (so-called) IRISH STEW.
cold water. (Notice the bright fresh color of the vegetables; this is We buy meaty breast of lamb or lamb neck or shoulder, for this
caused by sugar and "no salt.") inexpensive stew. Sitting down at the kitchen table we carefully remove
When the meat is tender, heat 2-3 Tbs. butter in a small pot or the bone with a small, sharp knife. A little extra work, but well worth
pan; add 2-3 Tbs. Hour; work together to make a paste (roux ) over it, as 'cut lamb stew' can cost .80/Ib. Incidentally, while we're at it,
medium heat. Gradually work in about 2 cups of the liquid from the we always cook twice as much lamb as we'll need for stew; then, after
stew; add 1 Tbs. salt, 1 tsp. white pepper, 1 Tbs. MSG. Let this thick- the meat is cooked and before the vegetables are added, we take out
ened liquid cook for a few minutes, while you fish bay leaf and chunks half the cooked meat with enough of the pot liquid to cover it; put it
of celery and carrot from the pot of stew. Pour the thickener back into away-after cooling--in the icebox in mason jars. Then, when we want
the slowly boiling stew, mix it in easily and thoroughly. The stew to make a delicious Iamb curry-a week later (see Chapt. 4), we've
liquid when finished should be not quite as thick as ordinary gravy. already got it half made! Clever, aren't we!
Taste for seasoning and add more if needed. Drain cooked vegetables
(those carrots, celery, and peas,) and add them to the stew; reduce
heat to low; cook 30 minutes or so until serving time. BROWNED BEEF STEW (FRENCH STEW)
This is your completed OLD FASHIONED STEW; in the West- This is, as you'll see, a different procedure, making an entirely
particularly in Nevada-it is often called Mulligan stew. (Of course, different dish. (And, with all this browning and frenching - it's no
anything can happen in Nevada; it's those tight levis and hi-heeled wonder! )
boots. They even make a stew with heart, liver, kidneys, testicles, etc. The meat and vegetables are made ready; a little fat is put into
all mixed in it; this is fancifully called Son-of-Bitch Stew. This is the a skillet and heated very hot. The pieces of meat are browned on all
Gospel truth, s'help us ... ) sides in this; if it is not possible to brown all the meat at once, do part
You can figure about 1~ lb. of trimmed, boned meat for two gener- at a time. As the pieces are browned, take them out of the fat with a
ous portions of stew, though this can be stretched to three skimpy skimmer or slotted spoon, transferring the meat to the 'stew pot' (a
servings. To each portion, we suggest 2 stalks of celery, 2 carrots, % dutch oven is best). A bay leaf, chopped onion and plenty of minced
cup of peas. A little pencil work here will tell you how much you will garlic are added, with a couple of stalks of celery, a carrot or two.
need, depending on how many are going to eat it. Meat and vegetables are covered-by a couple of inches-with a rich
Some people add potatoes to their stew; we like' em separate; many meat stock, or with canned bouillon, or bouillon and water; and the
like to make DUMPLINGS on this type of stew, and it's really simple. stew is simmered for 3-4 hours. The pot should be skimmed of scum
Any time after the stew has all been assembled, (with the cooked and surface fat during the first hour of cooking. While the meat is
vegetables added to the cooked meat) you roll out a rich biscuit dough stewing, the other vegetables that are to appear in the finished stew,
and just lop off 1" slices of it, putting these into the top of the stew. can be prepared. Carrots are scraped and sliced; celery is sliced cross-
Cover the pot tightly, and do NOT take cover off for at least 18 min- wise and in J~ inch slices. These are cooked separately, each in its little
utes. Then, remove cover and take dumplings out of the stew with a pot; use no salt, but do use J~ tsp. of sugar in each. Frozen peas are
slotted spoon or skimmer. A little of the stew juices can be spooned lightly cooked, also separately, also with a bit of sugar, no salt. None
over the dumplings, or use some melted butter. Dish up the stew of these vegetables are overcooked, rather just to fork tender. A very
separately. Again a word on the dumplings: Bisquick, used by direc- nice addition to this stew is a small can of little white onions; drain
tions on package, is very handy; we add a very little chopped parsley, early and pour liquid from can into the stew. For real elegance, a few
or other herbs, to the mixture. fresh mushrooms are quartered, brought just to a boil in cold water,
OLD FASHIONED LAMB STEW - IRISH LAMB STEW. A fine drained, then very lightly fried in a little butter in a skillet. The mush-
Iamb stew is made by this same method; we add a few dried oregano rooms, peas, canned onions are added to the completed stew half an
leaves to the cooking Iamb meat. This stew may be thickened as we hour before serving; the carrots and celery should be put in just after
did the old-fashioned Beef Stew; or some cooks simply toss in about the gravy is thickened and seasoned, and this should be about an hour
% c. of barley for the last hour of cooking; this will thicken the stew before mealtime.
122 123
 Our gravy is thickened to taste just as we do almost all gravies with
butter, (or fat) and flour to make a roux. However, for this browned 2 oz. suet-or other fat 1 Tbs. coarse-ground black pep-
beef stew, this fat-flour mixture is allowed to cook in its pan or pot 2 lb. lean meat-in U in. cubes per
until it becomes a little browned before the liquid is added to it. We 5 or 6 medium onions-sliced or salt to taste
find that a good dollop of soy sauce-or even a spoonful of Kitchen minced 1 Tbs. MSG
Bouquet, will add greatly to the color and appearance of the stew. 3 large cloves garlic-minced 3 ots. rich dark meat stock
One more thing-as the meat cooks after the first hour-it will be 3 heaped Tbs. Paprika 1 lb. sour cream
noticed that some of the liquid has cooked away; this is replaced by J~ tsp. ground cumin 1 medium rutabaga-minced
more of the liquid. During the last hour of this cooking, before the 2 Tbs. flour (opt.)
thickening, dry red wine (such as a Burgundy or Claret) may be 1 Tbs. caraway seeds (opt.)
substituted for added stock or for part of it. This will not add any Melt fat in heavy skillet, brown meat thoroughly; transfer meat to
'alky kick' to the stew, but will offer a slightly different flavor and color. pot. Cook onions and garlic to soft in fat, add to meat. Stir into
We feel that nothing goes so well with a good Browned Stew as meat in pot: paprika, salt, pepper, cumin, flour. Mix all together
do lots of mashed potatoes, a tart simple green salad, and apple pie over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add Caraway seeds if used. Add
with cheese.
Stock, enough to cover meat by 2 inches. Some old country cooks
grate in a rutabaga (yellow turnip). Simmer goulash 3-4 hours,
BEEF BOURGUIGNON 'til meat is tender. Skim away excess fat. Stew should not need thick-
ening, though gravy will be rather heavy. Just before serving, stir
in sour cream-OR-dish up goulash and put big spoonful of the
This is a stew in a classic French tradition; is relatively easy to cream on each portion. Goulash is marvey with hot buttered
prepare, and very delicious.
noodles, with plain spinach as a vegetable.
4 oz. salt pork, in small dice 1 bay leaf
2 lb. lean stew beef-n~" cubes small can whole white onions
1 medium onion-minced 1lb. fresh mushrooms, quartered LAMB OR VEAL FRICASSEE
2 large cloves garlic-minced 2-3 cups dry wine (Burgundy or Either of these two fine dishes are 'stews' of a sort; and are made
1 carrot, cut in 2 pieces Claret)
by proceeding as for Old Fashioned Stew, keeping the meat as color-
1 stalk celery 2 oz. brandy
less as possible. When meat is cooked, almost all the liquid is drained
1 cup rich meat stock or bouillon (canned) salt, pepper, MSG off (and saved), and the vegetables that have been cooked with the
meat for flavor, are removed. The. strained liquid is used in equal pro-
portion with warmed cream, (% cream or % strong stock from the meat)
"Fry out diced pork in skillet; take cubes from fat, save aside. to make a bland cream sauce, using a butter-flour base. This cream
Brown meat in fat, transfer to stew pot. Add minced onion, garlic, sauce (or Fricassee Sauce) is strained back over the meat; prepared
carrot and celery pieces, bay leaf, mushrooms. Add wine, stock, liquor cooked, sliced vegetables, (carrots, celery, peas) may then be carefully
from canned onions; simmer 3-4 hours to tender. Remove bay leaf, stirred in as we do for stew. Seasoning is adjusted for taste; we recom-
carrot, celery, discard these. Thicken gravy in usual manner (see mend a large Tbs. of MSG, plus salt and white pepper. As the Fricas-
above stews); season as needed. Add small onions, pork dice, the see is now loaded with flour, butter, and milk-all of which are prone
mushrooms that have been fried in a little butter; reheat to very hot. to scorch-we do not cook the fricassee for very long after it is all mixed
Just before serving, stir in brandy, serve at once.
together. To reheat it-as with any creamed dish-we heat in the top
GOULASH of a double boiler, to be sure not to burn it. This-as you'll learn-can
also be made of chicken, etc. Fricassee is real easy, very tasty. Like
... is a sort of a stew; Hungarians get blamed for 'em, and do make Mother always said: "Honest, dearie, it won't hurt a bit!"
them from beef, veal, even pork. They are easy to make and are full Leftover stew may be put in a casserole with biscuit or pastry dough
of flavor. Most men like 'em. on top, and this makes a mad MEAT PIE. Have a lot of gravy in it.
Or, cover the leftover stew in the casserole with leftover mashed potato,
124
125
-
then bake at 3750 for 30-40 minutes, and you've got a real jazzy SHEP- soning, and you're ready for chow down! Serve the Swish Steak
HERD'S PIE. (Those sheepherders-they've got it made if some of with some of the sauce over each piece of the meat. This is won-
the stories we hear are true!) derful with hot buttered noodles, or with mashed potatoes, etc.
Men just love this one, though whether it's the 'swish' or the
SWISH STEAK
'steak' would be hard to say. But-keep 'em happy ...
For this you buy commercial (B) beef from the round, or a piece And that seems to be all the space we can devote to 'Me~t' and
of shoulder clod, or a bit of bottom round. However, keep this in mind: what do do with it. In some circumstances, it's fun to improvise. YOu're
each steak should be at least 1 inch thick, if you buy a piece of clod on your own-just do what comes naturally ...
or bottom round, which will be in a sort of roll; you must get about
6 inches for 4 steaks, and then you simply whack it into four slices. 't
Besides the meat, you'll need:

4 steaks (for swishing) 1J~tsp. MSG

3 medium onions, sliced 4 Tbs. flour
3 pts. gravy-OR-part gravy, 4 Tbs. fat (bacon if possible)
part rich stock (opt) small can mushrooms
6 buds garlic, minced 'stems & pieces'
1 tsp. coarse-ground Black (opt) small can Tomato sauce
pepper (opt.) 1 Tbs. meat extract (V.V.,
1 tsp. salt Bovril, etc.)
Layeach steak flat; pound lightly with a meat tenderizer, (a sort
of mallet-type thing with a big and peculiar shaped head), or
give each steak a dozen or so whacks with the blunt back of a
heavy knife, sort of criss-cross on either side. These blows should
just cut surface of meat but not too deeeply. Dredge each piece in
the flour; heat fat in heavy skillet to very hot. Sear (brown ... as if
you didn't know ... ) meat on both sides in fat in skillet. Take meat
out of skillet, put into roast pan (one with a cover). Toss sliced
onions and garlic into fat in skillet, cover, cook 3-5 minutes; then
dump it all into the roast pan on the steaks. Add salt and pepper,
the MSG, the leftover flour, the mushrooms and tomato sauce if
used. Pour stock and gravy or just gravy (any leftover, rich, brown
gravy, except 'sweet-sour' or sauerbraten gravy), into the roaster
over and around the meat. Cover and cook in 3250 oven until
tender. This may be 2 or 3 hours. For last half hour, take cover
off roast pan, but gravy should still just cover the meat. When
meat is real tender, carefully take the steaks out of the gravy
and set aside on a platter or pan in a warm place. Why not the
oven with the heat turned off? Scrape out all the sauce, etc. from
the roast pan into a small sauce pot, getting every bit of it. Let
.his sit for awhile on the stove until all the fat-and there'll be
quite a lot of it-rises to the top. Skim this away. The gravy, full
of onion, mushrooms, etc. should be thick enough; taste for sea-

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 CHAPTER EIGHT
Chicken Queens, Chicken a fa King,
and our other Feathered F fiends

CHICKEN: TURKEY:
Broiled roast
Oven-roasted boiled
Maryland turkey gravy
Hawaiian Turkey Steaks and cutlets
a la Campana DUCKS:
Marengo with Olives
Provencale 'a la Orange, (Bigarade)
Cacciatore 'a la Montmorency
Normande SMALL BIRDS: Squabs, Cornish, Etc.
Cantonese roast
Paella ala Valenciana stuffed, etc.
Wiener Backhun STUFFINGS (dressings):
Paprika Chicken basic stuffing
Smetane Southern Cornbread stuffing
boiled Chicken wild rice stuffing, etc.
Chicken broth RABBIT:
Hot Chicken Sandwich, Mark Hopkins fried
a la King in casserole (potted)
Tetrazinni Hare Pie
Caruso FROG LEGS:
Chicken Fricassee saute
Divan Meuniere
Grandma's Fried Chicken Amandine
Chicken Gravy Figaro
Provencale

129
 EIGHT
<-.).:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:.~••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:•.).:.~••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:•.:.-:••:••:••:.( ••:••:••:••:••:••:••).: ••:.

No guide to cookery is complete without a fairly comprehensive

chapter on poultry. In this we will keep in mind the limits of our gay
cook's kitchen and bankroll. As a matter of fact, most poultry is among
the least expensive of dishes today-if you consider both price and
weight of meat, (and who doesn'tl ). A fair steak will cost at least
$1.50 at the butcher's; almost any style of half-chicken can be served
for about fifty cents. And-as you all must know-chickens are (usual-
ly) adaptable to almost any procedure if you're one of those who goes
for chicken.
First, a word about buying; get it at a reputable meat market or
counter. If you want to be extra fussy-smell it! (An old Madame's
trick, we are told!) Pass the poultry with any 'off' odor. Most important,
do not buy frozen poultry! It may be kept in ice, but if it has been
frozen you have already lost many of the oils and too much of the
flavor of the bird. These just don't freeze. We prefer to buy "whole
birds," (chicken, at any rate) and cut them to our needs. They are
always cheaper this way. The average 2~4 to 2~~lb. fryer is a fine
chicken for two people; if we are to disjoint our chicken in service,
we may buy a slightly larger bird-up to 3 lbs.

131
 Then, we remove the neck, back, tail (in one long piece) ; 'the wing- and then make sure to pour over the meat, all the fat and juice from
tips and second joints, (poultry wings are in 3 sections: the tip, second the pie pan.
joint, wing), and the knees' at the end of the drumstick. We separate
the chicken into halves along the breastbone, saving the breastbone OVEN ROASTED CHICKEN
with our other trimmings. We usually then cut each half into 3 pieces: ... is a similar deal; you prepare the halves in the same way, and
the breast with the wing attached, the thigh, and the drumstick. they go into a 425° oven for about 20 minutes on one side, 15 on the
other. (Chicken roasted or broiled always has skin-side up to the
CHICKEN STOCK heat first; then turn it over later. )
Almost always we immediately put all the trimmings (the neck-
back-tail, wing-tip-second joint, knees, giblets, breastbone, extra MARYLAND
skin from the neck, extra fat from tail end) into water with some Next on our list of old standbys (in chicken preparations!) is prob-
vegetable trimmings, and let them simmer to a rich chicken stock. ably famed Chicken a la Maryland. The whole half-chicken is served;
If we have used a large chicken, we also cook the two thighs with this it is floured, then 'dipped'<-f the dip may be a beaten egg, with J; cup of
stock; when they are tender we take them out and cool them, then milk, J~ c. water, or may be plain buttermilk, etc. )-and floured again.
wrap them for freezing for future use. We also accumulate the fresh Many cooks roll the chicken halves in seasoned crumbs rather than in
chicken livers and hearts in little bundles of heavy plastic wrap, and the second flouring.
freeze these. In some misguided Southern culinary circles, a batter is used; this
When enough livers have been saved, we thaw out all the little often seems to result in an overcooked and inedible crust over rawish
packets and make a nice Chicken Liver Omelet, or a tasty a la Caruso chicken. (Not all of those big Southern dishes are tasty!) The floured
dish. When we have a dozen cooked thighs accumulated, we thaw or breaded chicken is skillet-fried to a light brown, then is put into
out these nice meaty pieces and make a fine chicken curry, or a salad, the 400° oven for 10-15 minutes. Some rich chicken-milk gravy is put
or a chicken-and-noodle casserole, or whatever. In this way we figure onto a service plate, on this a piece of toast fried in butter, then the
to get three-and more good orders from a large chicken, and wit~ only half chicken, and beside it is a crisp and light fresh corn fritter. That's
a little extra work. Statisticians have declared that: " three good proper Chicken a la Maryland.
meals from one chicken, even in California, is nice goin' "
Or, if we decide we'll have the very easiest kind of chicken, we'll
buy the 2~~to 2if lb. fryers; we remove the neck-back-tail, wingtip and HAWl\llAN
second joint, knees and breastbone, leaving two full halves. (The trim- At Happy House we like what we call Chicken Hawaiian. Disjoint
mings may go at once into water for stock, or may be saved in the pieces of chicken (usually a half) and lightly pan-fry the pieces. Finish
freezer for future stock.) Our two trim halves may be broiled, fried in a 400° oven 'til cooked completely through. Meanwhile, we make
or oven-roasted. One note at this point: we do NOT wash out chicken, some Saffron Rice (Chapt. 4) by frying pineapple slices in the fat left
either whole or in pieces. We do wipe it with a slightly damp cloth. If in the skillet. We de-segment a large ripe orange; we peel and slice
it should be slick, or sticky, or have any trace of an odor we don't want a ripe avocado and do the same with a ripe banana, We grate a little
it. But wash it, or soak it in water ... never! fresh gingerroot, and get out some long shred coconut. And about five
minutes before chow down we start putting the service plates together.
BROILED CHICKEN The rice is mounded in the center with half a pineapple slice at each
... is the simplest possible preparation; we rub the halves lightly with side, with the chicken piled in the center, on the rice. Then we garnish
oil, salt, pepper, lightly paprika them, (we also sprinkle on a little like mad with the sliced avocado, orange, banana, and sprinkling the
ground rosemary); put them into 11 large pie pan, and slip them under mixed gingerroot and coconut over all. A little melted butter, heated
a pre-heated broiler for about 15 minutes on each side. We test to see in that same busy skillet, with just a little soy sauce added and with all
if it is completely cooked by proddin& to the bone at the meatiest part the brown bits stirred loose from the pan is poured over the portions
of the leg; no pink is oozing out if it s cooked. On a service plate we as a sauce. With a fresh green vegetable, such as fresh-cooked broccoli,
sometimes put the broiled half-chicken on a piece of outtered toast, on the plate, we slip it on the table and have at it. When we have

132 133
guests for Chicken Hawaiian, we go all gay and put a mad hibiscus the egg in the center of the pan. The egg and the snippets of fried
blossom on the plate as well. With or without this daisy it's a helluva bread were used to garnish the Little Man's dinner as it was served.
good dish, pretty fancy, but not too expensive. According to the story, in later years one of Napoleon's frequent
request to his chef, was for that Chicken a la Marengo. And just so
'a la CAMPANA it may be prepared today, with the above jazzy tale told to the happy
In Rome, this really means country style. This is a really simple diner for extra seasoning. We suggest only that you forget the truffie-
but very elegant service, and is (we are told) featured at the fabulous it's as expensive as hell and hard to find.
Forum of the Twelve Caesars restaurant in New York. The half chicken
is disjointed, leg, thigh, breast with wing. These pieces are lightly CHICKEN PROVENCALE
floured and sauteed in a butter and olive oil mixture. After lightly The very name Provencale-Reine de la Midi will bring to the
browning on all sides, the chicken is put into a 3750-4000 oven for 10 traveled gourmet visions of the fabulous food of the South of France.
minutes or so. Meanwhile an artichoke heart, precooked and cut into There the cooking almost always seems to happily feature garlic, toma-
quarters, is sauteed in the pan fat, to which is added a small piece to, olives, anchovies, and lusty red wines. And Chicken Provencale is
of fresh garlic. After a minute or so, a small handful of quartered fresh cooked-to order-in just that manner.
mushrooms and a chopped green onion, are added to the pan. The In this case, the chicken is sauteed in olive oil with a touch of garlic,
vegetables are tossed 'til they are cooked through, about 6-8 minutes. and when it is half cooked is well doused with some full-bodied red
On the stove we have ready a small pot of rissoto (Chapt. 4); a glop wine (like a Mountain Burgundy of California). Cooked then to tender
of this goes on the service plate, the chicken is piled on it and is lightly perfection, it is garnished with fresh tomato, ripe olives, a few savory
sprinkled with either vermouth or brandy (less than half a teaspoon- anchovies. Hot and crusty rolls, a tartly dressed green salad, and a
ful). The artichoke, onion, and mushrooms are piled around a very simple dessert of fruits and/or cheese-Man! Ya got something, there!
light sprinkle of grated Parmesan or Romano cheese goes over all.
This is not only elegant in appearance and aroma-but it tastes good CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORE
too. Try this onel
This seems to be an old standby of purportedly Italian restaurants.
'a la MARENGO (In French restaurants it's called a la Chasseur; both names mean
"Hunter Style," 'so take it from there.) The disjointed chicken pieces
The story is often told among those who know the world's finest are lightly floured, then evenly browned in some hot olive oil. At the
foods, of how Napoleon lost his kitchen wagon at the battle of Maren- same time we fry-in another skillet or pan-a few pieces of cut celery,
go, in Northern Italy. His enterprising orderly (who was buckin' for a couple of chopped green onions, a small bud of garlic-minced, a few
sergeant, no doubt!) foraged around in the area, and returned with squares of green pepper. As these begin to soften we add a couple of
a scrawny chicken, some ripe olives and some olive oil, a stalk of celery fresh mushrooms-quartered, and a very ripe tomato that has been
and a handful of mushrooms, some small white onions and a button of peeled and cut up. These vegetables will soften easiest if the pan is
garlic. He also had liberated a fresh egg, a piece of truffie, and a part covered; after a few minutes, about half a cup of any brown gravy
of a bottle Madeira. (He'd done pretty well). The chicken was quickly (or some tomato sauce with a couple of bouillon cubes dissolved in
dressed and cut up, then lightly browned in the oil. The chopped cel- it) is added to the vegetables. A little leftover winesauce or any other
ery, quartered mushrooms, the minced garlic, and the sliced truffie wine gravy with a little tomato added to it could be used. (In any case,
were added to the pan along with the small onions and the olives. A let's get on with it, dearie ... you can't keep on browning that chicken
few leaves of a local herb (probably oregano) were also tossed in. A forever, y'knowl ) By this time the chicken should be evenly cooked,
little of the wine was added to the skillet, which was then covered, though not completely done, and we pour over it about an ounce of
and the whole thing was simmered 'till the chicken was tender. We heavy sherry (or Madeira, Marsala, or even brandy). This will flame;
do this last part in a 3750 oven. Finally the contents were turned out when the flames die down, dump the vegetables and gravy over the
onto a plate, with all of the pan sauces poured over the chicken then chicken pieces; cover the pan and simmer slowly for another 15 min-
a little more oil was poured into the pan over very high heat. Little utes. By this time the chicken should be ready to serve; dish it up
crusts of bread were fried in this, and these were pushed aside to fry onto hot plates; a little chopped green onion over the top will look
134 135
real cool. We like this with plain rice, or even a nice rissoto (Chapt. CANTONESE CHICKEN
4&10). Actually this is not a very difficult preparation, though it may
NORMANDE require a little practice to bring it off just right. (What doesn't,) The
result is utterly delicious, and very different. As a principal cooking
Say, You like apples? Well, there's a real mad way of doin' this
utensil (assuming you don't have a Chinese wok, (it's a type of skillet,
chicken ... (easy there, Mildred!) that seems to have the natives all
silly! ), is a !arge iron frying pan or chicken-fryer preferably one with
drooly in Northern France. So, let's be mad, gay, French and different,
a cover. Let s do an old-fashioned type recipe, with all the things listed
and try some Chicken Normandy. (Who he?) First you must lay in first. For four servings you'll need:
some apple brandy and some cider, though not very much of each.
With the extra apple brandy, try a Martini substituting the brandy for 1 cup (heaped) long grain raw !~lb. fresh mushrooms
gin. About 4 parts to 1 part French Vermouth; squeeze a good piece
rice 4 Tbs. olive oil PLUS 4 Tbs.
1 3-4 lb. frying chicken salad oil
of lemon peel over the poured drink-and all very cold. WOW!
Back to the tubs. In France they use Calvados, a famed (or notor- 4 buds garlic, peeled, minced good pinch oregano leaves
ious) bit of forked. lightning made in Normandy. It can be had here,
1 medium sized ginger root, good pinch sweet basil leaves
but not in every liquor store and is quite expensive; so we use a good
peeled (minced) 1 Tbs. flour
brand of New Jersey Apple Brandy (or Applejack), figuring that by
1 cup chopped (medium) green 1 tsp. MSG
the time we pour it over our chicken it will be too fried to know the
onion, with some green 1 Tbs. Soy Sauce
difference.
(opt.) small can water chestnuts, % c. sake-OR-medium sherry
This is an extremely savory and succulent dish; properly prepared
sliced salt-pepper to taste
it'll make the dining guest drool. You'll need- (for 2) -a 23~lb. frier,
(opt.) small can bamboo shoots, 2 tsp. cornstarch
quartered
trimmed and cut into 8 serving pieces (2 wings, 2 breasts, 2 thighs, 2
legs); 4 skinless pork sausages; J~ medium onion, sliced very thin; 4 First thing--put the rice on: Wash rice thoroughly under cold
half-inch slices ot green cooking apple (from the center of 2 apples); water, rinse 10 times. Put into. pot with heavyish bottom (rice will
salt, pepper, MSG, flour; 2 oz. apple brandy; 1 cup apple cider; 1 cup expand to 3-4 times), and a tight lid. Cover rice with Hi inch of cold
heavy whipping cream. And you'll need a fair-sized heavy skillet with water; dash in salt if you like. COVER TIGHTLY, put over medium
a cover. Ready? heat about 5 minutes, then you'll hear it boiling. Reduce heat, shake,
Season the flour and dunk the chicken pieces in it. Slowly cook the pot, BUT DON'T REMOVE LID! (The steam cooks the rice.) After
sausages in the skillet over medium heat. Take out the sausages and another 5 minutes, reduce heat to lowest possible. In 20 minutes turn
set them aside. Flour the apple rings and fry them lightly, tossing in off heat; rice is cooked, but don't uncover it 'til actually serving it with
the onion rings with them. The apples should be lightly browned, the cooked chicken. (Wasn't that easy? Yet some good cooks have
but should not be more than half cooked. Take the apple and onion trouble cooking perfect rice ... we don't know why! )
out of the pan: set aside. Add a little bacon fat-or other fat-to the Take the tips and second joint from the chicken wings; remove
.pan, as needed, and brown the chicken pieces evenly and lightly. neck-back-tail in one piece; take off knees; split chicken, removing
Take these out and set aside. Drain almost all of the remaining fat breastbone. Now, disjoint the wings from the breast; the breasts from
from the pan; lay in the sausages; top with the apples and onion; put the thighs; the thighs from the legs. This gives us 8 pieces of serving
the chicken pieces on top of these, Put the pan over brisk heat and chicken, and a pile of trimmings, which we set aside. Sit down, and
pour in the brandy. This will flame (even if you have to light it!). As with a small and very sharp knife, remove all the bones from each of
the flames die down, add the mixed cream and cider. Cover the pan these 8 pieces. At first it ain't easy, (like some other things you can do
and let simmer over low heat for 20-25 minutes. Or put it into the 375 0 with chickens), but with a little practice it's a cinch. Add the bones
oven for this last part of the cooking. This dish is really best if actually you have taken out to the other trimmings; put these away in the
uncovered at the table; the aroma is heavenly and mouthwatering. freezer for a future chicken soup or broth. Cut the hunks of chicken
This makes two generous portions of Poulet Normande. Lyonnaise meat into fairly large bite-sized pieces, say: each wing into 2 pieces,
potatoes seem to go well here, and a fresh green vegetable. Maybe each breast into 6 pieces, each thigh into 4, and each leg into 3. Lay
Brussels Sprouts. all these pieces out on a plate and sprinkle them with a little MSG,

136 137
 then with a little seasoned flour; let these set out while you open cans, WIENER BACKHUNE (Vienna Chicken) CHICKEN PAPRIKA
cut vegetables, have a beer (you deserve it!) and heat the oil in the
pan. Chinese-cooks use peanut oil; we prefer a little olive oil and salad These two preparations are almost the same. As with most recipes,
oil. When this is quite hot, carefully lay in the pieces of chicken, toss many people cook them with slight differences. So, here you have our
the minced garlic and gingerroot over them. Turn all the pieces busily version of the two: the half-chicken is lightly sauteed in a little oil-
'til each is nicely browned; take them out of butter-baconfat (say a large Tbs. of each, mixed in the pan); this fat,
the pan, put on a pie-pan (or some similar as usual, is allowed to get quite hot before the floured chicken halves
pan) and put them into a 350° oven, uncov- are put into it. At once they are sprinkled with salt, white pepper, and
ered, to finish cooking. Add all the vegetables paprika. The halves are turned and seasoned 'til lightly browned and
and herbs to the skillet at once, cover and reddened on all sides. Then, they are taken from the fat and put into
let steam, shaking once or twice. These that much-used pie-pan, and slipped into a moderate (360°-375°) oven
should be nicely done in 6-10 minutes, and for about 15 minutes. Meantime, some very finely minced onion is
they shouldn't be soft or mushy. Add the cooked in the pan fat (this is sometime omitted); a very little flour is
cornstarch to the cold sake (or sherry) work worked in. Then enough commercial sour cream (about 2 cups) is
out the lumps, pour over cooked vegetables stirred into the pan over reduced heat, to make a fairly thick sauce.
in the pan. Cook, stirring, for 5 more min- Do not let this come to a boil, as the cream will separate, but as it
utes. Add soy sauce, salt, pepper, as needed. cooks it will naturally thicken. This sauce should be quite smooth,
Now to serve: with a wooden spoon (al- except for the bits of onion, and just slightly red or pink from the
ways) dish up the cooked rice, (ya finally paprika. By this time the chicken halves are cooked through; some-
got that cover off! Nice and flaky, huh?) into times the sauce is poured over the chicken halves on the service plate;
~ a sort of ring on a real large platter. Pour all sometimes it is put under the meat, and some odd souls serve it on the
the vegetables and their sauce into the center of the rice, and set all side. This sauce, or sour cream gravy is also called Smetane and some-
the chicken pieces (from the oven) around the rice. There you have times chicken prepared this way is called Chicken Smetane.
it, so rush it to the table. We like a grapefruit-avocado-romaine salad Plain steamed rice is often served or buttered noodles. These last,
with this, and a plain French dressing. No vegetable or potato is well buttered and maybe with a touch of nutmeg stirred or tossed
needed, but we do like a cold dry white wine such as a Traminer to with them, seem to go well with most Hungarian dishes. However,
go along with it. Real cold beer goes well, too. And for dessert, we we say what the hell's wrong with plain 01' French Fries? Out of a
serve a tasty pineapple sherbet with some good almond cookies frozen package, they can heat up in another of those pie pans in the
(Chapt. 1). Coffee much later. Swell meal, they always say of Canto- oven along with the chicken. Men guests (you should be so lucky)
nese Chicken. like 'em even better than rice or noodles.

BOILED CHICKEN
PAELLA a la VALENCIANA There's certainly nothing wrong with a plain boiled chicken. (What
dearie: I can say that again? Get You!) The entire trimmed -half is
usually served, or it may be easily cut into 2 pieces or 4 eating pieces
This is considered by gourmets, to be one of the world's greatest (plus those trimmings) for each bird. And as long as we are boiling
dishes. And it is truly handsome, served in an earthenware casserole, the thing, we might as well make some good chicken broth or stock
steaming and savory, and displaying the colors (red, green, yellow) as we go; so we also toss into the pot, all the trimmings that we re-
of Spain. However, quite a few people have never tasted saffron, with moved from this chicken: the wing-tips and second joints, the neck-
which this dish is heavily flavored and they may not take to it. Besides, back-tail, the knees, breastbone and giblets. We will not boil the heart
a good Paella is as expensive as all hell! Consider, chicken, lobster, or liver, as these would make a cloudy broth, and these are better
shrimps, mussels, artichoke hearts, fresh peas, pimiento, rice, freshly saved for other uses. If by chance we have some other trimmings,
grated cheese, and the saffron. That saffron is the world's most expen- frozen from the week before, these will go into this potful, and we'll
sive spice or seasoning; currently it costs about $75.00 per pound. make a real strong, flavorful broth.
138 139
 We cover all these pieces with cold water and slowly bring them a quick CHICKEN SALAD, add some lettuce, hard cooked egg, green
just to a boil. Then we dump the whole thing into a colander; rinse onion, and sandwich spread.
all the pieces well under cold water; and also clean the pot. Again we Now, what to do with the cooled cooked halves or quarters of
put the chicken pieces (edibles and trimmings) into the pot, ag,dn boiled chicken. The best deal is to carefully remove the bones from
we cover with cold water an extra inch or so. We toss in a c<'ple of them; this can be done fairly easily while the pieces are still warm,
stalks of celery, a quartered onion, a carrot cut in two, and a small and by careful use of a small sharp knife, and a little practice. The
bay leaf. A bud of garlic does no harm, if you like it, and we like it! bones are always in the same places! This boned cold chicken may
We simmer this pot until the heavy part of the chicken leg is fork be served as is or perhaps as an accompaniment to a sandwich or salad
tender, and then we remove the four edible pieces or the two halves, or soup. Like this, it makes a nice summer meal. Or, the chilled pieces
if we didn't cut them. We set these aside for dinner; and we may cook are real handy to grab out of the icebox for a midnight snack. The
the broth in the pot for another hour to get all the good out of the boned chicken may be carefully sliced for sandwiches, or for other
trimmings and vegetables. dishes, like TETRA ZINNI, etc. or it may be tastefully used for hot
sandwiches, such as this popular 'open one.
CHICKEN BROTH
HOT CHICKEN SANDWICH, MARK HOPKINS
While the stock is still very hot, we pour it all through a colander
or coarse sieve, saving all the liquids and fat in a pot, and putting all Put sliced fried ham on pieces of buttered toast; slices of chicken
the vegetables and trimmings to one side. While still very hot, the (warmed in a little stock, drained) on the ham. Then cover the pile
liquid is put through a fin or 'hair' sieve; (we just pour it through a with a very rich chicken-Mornay sauce (Chapts. 5-9) and maybe a
dish towel draped over a strainer.) Anyway when that is done, the result little freshly grated cheese. Put it under the broiler for a minute or so;
is a pot of clear, unseasoned chicken broth, with a small amount of serve with crisp French Fries around the sandwich on the very hot
chicken fat on the top of it. To enhance the Ravor of this broth, we platter. This is served a hundred times nightly, at the famed Hotel
add a rounded tsp. of MSG, a J~ tsp. salt, J~ tsp. sugar, and a good pinch Mark Hopkins in San Francisco; is very attractive, very tasty.
of white pepper. If you are going to use this as a soup, or part of one, Or the cold chicken, diced, maybe used in a fine salad, in a succu-
we suggest the broth be slightly thickened. We bring the seasoned lent Chicken Curry, or in a jazzy a la King. How's that ... ?
broth to a near boil; in a separate bowl we put 1 level tsp. of cornstarch
and mix it smooth with 4 Tbs. of cold water. We whip this into the CHICKEN A LA KING
boiling stock; in a few minutes it will come 'clear' again, and the stock A rich, white cream sauce is made- (or open a can of the stuff)-
will have a little body. Properly cooled, then stuck into the 'fridge, and extra butter is worked in as well as some MSG. If some real rich
this soup will keep for some time. But, do not go too heavy with the chicken stock is on hand, this can go into the sauce with perhaps equal
Cornstarch; 1 level tsp. will do for 2 cups of stock. After all, we don't parts of cream, both warmed and worked into a butterRour roux, as
want to have to carve the soup. we have surely learned
Back at the 'one side' where we've stashed all that stuff we also to do by now. A pinch
had in the stock pot (excepting the big pieces of chicken), we fish of nutmeg will add to
the carrot and celery out of this; these can be sliced and used in this sauce, and a dash of

i~
a salad, or as vegetables with a meal, etc. On the wings, neck, back, Sherry, too. (Not too
and tail we find a little chicken meat that can be carefully picked "h:.... much, there, Gertrude!
off, including some skin. These bits may simply be chopped fine and ...'::-.:... Use half as much as
added to your chicken soup, or they may be included in any dish where ... that, and dri nk the
chopped or cut chicken is used, such as a curry, salad, a la King, etc. ~ ~ rest!) Some half - inch
Of course these won't be many usable trimmings from a single chicken, dice of green pepper
but suppose that we had the accumulated trimmings from 3 or 4 chick- ~ ',. -... .....,.g are blanched (brought
ens these bits would then add up to at least one 'no cost' portion of to a near boil from cold water with a pinch of sugar, no salt, cooked
one entree. These chopped up bits are particularly good to make up 3 minutes, drained, and they're blanched). Some canned whole pimien-
140 141
 to is cut into similar dice. A small handful.of fresh mushrooms is sliced le Butch tosses out; as with anything edible in the chicken line, ya
or quartered and brought to a boil in water, then drained, and fried gotta give it a careful once-over. These tired old hens are big, should
in a little butter. The boned chicken is cut into fairly large sized be fat, are often tough. (All that running to and from the rooster,
pieces, though any smaller scraps (like from trimmings) may be mixed makes' em that way!) A bird from 33~to 5 lb. is fine; but pick one with
in. The chicken, pepper, pimiento, and mushrooms are added to the a chubby compact frame, (a rangy one will probably be the rooster-
sauce, mixing carefully so as not to break up the pieces. If this dish and he IS tough!), and with lots of globs of light yellow fat around
is not to be served at once, the container it is in should be set in hot neck and tail. If no fat-don't buy it! The chicken will (very probably)
water and kept warm. Reheating this type of rich, creamed dish over be cleaned, with the extra neck-piece, the giblets, heart, liver, wrapped
a bare flame often results in scorching. Serve the a la King over toast, separately and stuck inside. If they're not there-ask for 'em.
or English Muffins, or in patty shells. It's also dandy on split pieces At home (we'll omit any campy bits about getting the chicken
of hot cornbread, or what the hell! Just dump it in a bowl, and stick home, etc. We're busy here today ... ) wash the chicken under cold
a spoon in it for that real rough trade! water (No May! Soap is not necessary). Set aside the giblets, heart,
For a TETRAZINNI, ya cook up some spaghetti (not too well liver; freeze 'em 'til you need them for other uses.
done) or some noodles; drain the pasta and mix it up while very hot You will need a large pot for stewing this chicken; best is a heavy
with some butter and freshly-grated cheese. You can toss in some enamel. Stainless steel can be okay, but watch aluminum and light
sauteed mushrooms, and dump the whole thing into a buttered and tins as very often the reaction of the metal to long cooking will dis-
heated casserole, or onto a deep fireproof platter. Spread sliced chicken color the stock. To repeat: heavy enamel-ware is fine; and this is a
(that has been warmed) over the top of the noodles or spaghetti; real handy size to have on hand for all such needs; it is often called
cover with a rich chicken gravy or a Chicken-Mornay sauce and put a preserving kettle, and has a lid.
under the broiler, or into a very hot oven, for a few minutes. Serve Put the chicken and the extra neckpiece into the pot and just cover
right from the casserole or platter; a real simple dish, and a very good with cold water. Bring to a boil for 1 minute. Dump the whole thing
one. into a colander set in the sink, and let this liquid drain away. Rinse
chicken again under running water; this blanching will remove any
a la CARUSO dirt or blood clots that would dirty or darken the stock (broth) with
long cooking. Also, wash out the pot.
Incidentally, while we're on dishes of this type, if you have a lot
Put the bird back in the pot, cover with cold water, and stick it on
of fresh or frozen chicken livers, you can quickly saute these in a
the fire. Toss in-for a 4 lb. hen-3 large carrots (peeled and halved),
little butter-olive oil (with a touch of garlic, some chopped green
4 stalks celery (halved), 2 medium large onions (peeled and quar-
onion, a dash of sherry or brandy). When the livers are cooked through,
tered), and a large Bay Leaf.
they are spread over a platter or casserole of cooked spaghetti, with
Let pot come to a boil; reduce heat so that liquid just bubbles
mushrooms, butter and cheese mixed in. A rather thin but rich chicken
slowly. Early during the long, slow cooking, a little scum will rise to
gravy (or a gravy that is half chicken gravy and half brown sauce) is
the surface; carefully skim it away. After first hour, skim no more,
poured over the livers and pasta. This too is reheated a little under a
as most of this topping will then be rich chicken-fat (schmaltz). After
broiler or in a very hot oven. On serving, more freshly-grated cheese
an hour, a small handful of salt may be added; (optional) half as
is sprinkled on this standard order of 'a la Caruso', who, they say, ate
much sugar. Depending on age, etc., the hen may take 2 to 4 hours
it that way! However, as with most typical Italian preparations, every
cook (it seems) has his own 'original recipe.' to cook to be tender; after 2 hours start testing the heavy part of the
leg or thigh with a fork. If it's tender, the chicken is cooked.
CHICKEN FRICASSEE Remove the cooked chicken from the stock and set it aside. Put
remaining contents of the pot at once through a coarse sieve or colan-
This is an old favorite dish, is quite easy to prepare, and it is pos- der, carefully saving all the liquid in another pot, and setting the
sibly the least expensive meal you can put on !>hetable. (Yes! We vegetables aside. There should be about a quart and a half of rich
know! never mind about Mabell ).' Quite often your market will have yellow stock; put it into a clean pot-or wash that other one out again
a sale on stewing hens or chicken, sometimes even as low as .15 lb. -and let stock come just to a boil. As it cooks, add a small handful of
This is for you, girl! But, don't nod and accept that first scrawny bird MSG (this is about 2 rounded Tablespoons), then taste for seasoning.
142 143
r-

Add salt if needed, then a little white pepper or a very little Cayenne, chicken fat with the added oleo or butter. (Not that last )4 lb. That's for
or a couple dashes of Tabasco. As soon as the stock comes to a boil, the noodles). Stir in the flour (about 73cup) and stir together over low
strain it at once through a fine sieve. (Again, we just use a corner of heat. Do not let this brown; but add a little salt, a little white pepper,
the dish towel, draped over the sieve, pressing liquid through cloth.) a very little MSG. Stir this all into a sort of dryish, crumbly paste (or
This into another clean pot or container. (At least this one needn't roux ): gradually slip in some of the hot stock, working the lumps out.
be as large as the big pot.) Let this stock or broth 'set' for 10 minutes Then whip in the light cream or milk and most of the rest of the stock.
and all the fat will rise to the top. Carefully skim this away and save Keep stirring; do not let the sauce boil, but it should cook enough to
every drop of it. 'convert' the Hour, A couple of drops of yellow color (egg-shade) will
By now your chicken is cold enough to cut up; best to remove make it look extra rich. Sauce should be medium-thick, no lumps,
wing-tips and second joint (leaving the arm attached to breast); dis- smooth and glossy, and tasting richly of chicken. A pinch of nutmeg
card tip, set second joint aside. Chop off knees at end of legs (discard); can be added. If sauce seems to thicken too much, work in a little more
cut out neck-backbone-tail in one long strip, pick any meat off this of the stock or even some hot water. (You could pour some off the
and off that extra neck-piece while we're at it, and set these little scraps pieces of meat.) If the sauce is stubborn and there are lumps, put it
aside. Split the chicken, removing the breastbone (discard). Cut each quickly through a strainer. This is your rich fricassee sauce.
side in half, separating the thigh-and-Ieg from the breast-and-wing. Put drained noodles either on a large platter or in a big bowl, or on
Disjoint wing-arm from breast, set aside. Carefully remove bones from individual plates. Pour that melted butter over them. Spread cut-up
inside of breast, and the one along the front side of the breast (discard chicken over noodles, and spoon the rich sauce over all. The cut-up
these bones.) Separate leg from thigh at joint; some cooks remove vegetables may go over the chicken and noodles, or may not be used
bone from leg-we usually do and then cut leg-meat in half lengthwise. at all. Many cooks prepare, separately, fresh or frozen green peas; drain
Cut boneless thigh (all right, so take it out!) into 2 or 3 pieces each. them and strew them over the sauced fricassee,
Cut each boneless breast into 2-3 pieces. Some cooks remove skin of This Chicken Fricassee is a delicious 'home-style' dish; it can feed
the chicken; we leave it on. So here we have a lot of cut-up cooked 4 for less than a dollar. These days that's good. Note: A really "wise"
chicken, with bones only in the wing second joint and wing arm. We cook will get a "friend" in to do all those pots and pans and whatever
also have a small dish of rendered chicken fat, and about 6 c. of else may come up.
clear, rich yellow chicken stock or broth. Also we've got some cooked
vegetables. Of these we slice up the carrots and celery, if they're not
too soft. (What can you do when they're too soft?)
CHICKEN DIVAN
All this above can be done the night or day before, and the stuff
can be put in the 'fridge 'til needed. The fricassee can be assembled in In gourmet circles, probably the most famed chicken dish of the
about an hour (or less)) when you get around to it. Let's put our past few decades is Chicken Divan, as originated and prepared at the
dinner together: heat a large pot of water; add a small handful of salt, Restaurant Divan in New York City. A buttered toast round is put into
a few drops of yellow color (egg shade). When this comes to a boil, a shirring dish (a round, flattish casserole); on this goes a piece of
toss in the noodles. Best to use medium noodles, and a good big handful grilled ham, and on the ham several heads and stalks of fresh-cooked
for each portion to be served. The noodles will cook to tender in a broccoli. A boneless, flattened breast of chicken, (this is called a su-
little less than 20 minutes at which time, shut off heat under pot, and preme) is lightly sauteed in butter-oil; cooking is probably finished in
let noodles just sit there (in the water) 'til you need them (though no the oven. The supreme of chicken goes on top of the broccoli; the whole
longer than 30 minutes). is covered with a rich sauce, probably a mousseline which is sort of a
Meanwhile, put stock in pot, heat to just hot. Add enough melted cross between a Hollandaise and a Mornay, with added whipped cream
butter or even good salad oil, to the chicken fat to make about ~4 cup. (Chapt. 9). Then follows the usual brief bit under the broiler; a couple
Put on to warm a cup or a cup-and-a-half of rich milk. In a small pan, of slices of prepared trufHe are stuck in the top. A bell glass (a rounded
put the cut-up chicken, with just enough of the hot stock to barely glass lid or cover) is put over the whole thing; and again it goes into
cover it; let this heat through. And in still another small pot or pan, the oven for a few minutes, and finally it is served. In New York: $7.50
melt (just 'melt'; don't cook) a half pound of butter or good oleo. a portion; actual cost: about 75 cents, though a great deal of knowledge
Now, in a big, clean (and heavy-bottomedl ) pot or pan, melt the and skill go into conceiving and preparing an entree of this sort. But,

144 145
 what the hell, Daphne! Those fancy dishes in New York are always
expensive. I recall one evening along the Drive ... but that's for another is, but it sure as hell ain't very practical for the person with a small
book. kitchen, a small icebox, a small stove, small etc. Most compact apart-
ments are simply not built for the 20 lb. turkey, so let's just forget it.
GRANDMA'S FRIED CHICKEN Nevertheless, we won't completely scratch ROAST TURKEY: you
want the bird, you can have it! There are, these days, some small-bred
After removing the wing tip, knees, neck-back-tail, the chicken is turkeys available which could be ideal. These run from 5 to 10 lbs.
split and the breastbone is removed. Then each half is cut into four Just be sure, however, that you don't get a small, big-boned type which
pieces: wing, breast, thigh, leg. Now, we wipe the pieces (remember- would he over 50% bone. You can only try; anyway, you get this gump,
don't wash). We dunk the pieces into some seasoned flour, into some and-well, hell-you just roast it.
buttermilk, again into the flour, and then fry 'em. We use any good First, we are assuming that this turkey is not-nor has been-frozen.
shortening, or oil, or even lard; heating it in a heavy skillet or pan to It may be cold, but please-not that cold. As we start to operate, the
not-quite-smoking. Turn the oven on at this point to about 3600-3750. bird is naturally all thawed out, (Y'see, we don't hold with any frozen
Fry the pieces in the pan, turning constantly, and it isn't necessary to poultry; but if that's what you've got, thaw it naturally, don't soak it.
do them all at once. When we've got all the pieces lightly fried, we pile Just let it sit out at room temperature for a few hours or overnight.
'em onto a large pan and put them into the oven for 5-20 minutes. Cover it with a light cloth, maybe ... and wait patiently.
Test for doneness by poking that fork into the thick part of the leg; Coming face-to-face with your bird, you must first take out what-
if it oozes pink, give them another 5 minutes. Then your (American) ever may be in it. Though (it is assumed) you have bought a "dressed"
Fried Chicken is' ready-dish it up! turkey that is oven ready, you'll find that those mad turkey people
have tucked the neck, giblets, liver, heart (maybe even a few tail-
CHICKEN GRAVY feathers) back into certain cavities. Well, take 'em out and set them
aside; cut off the wing tip and the second joint (leaving the wing-arm
While all this oven bit goes on, you can make some delicious attached to the bird). Make a stock (see Chicken Broth) of all these
chicken gravy, if you like. Drain off most of the fat in the pan, leaving trimmings, with some vegetable odds and ends.
a little with all the bits and crumbs of burned flour and chicken, etc. Grease the bird-(yes that's what I said)-just oil it up with some
Add about a Tbs. or more of flour; work it around with a fork to clean oil or shortening, or old bacon grease, or whatever. (What? NO, you
the pan. Pour in about a cup and a half of warmed milk, (we add fool, not that!) Slip maybe a couple of pieces of celery, a carrot cut in
enough light cream to the buttermilk left over to make this amount). half, a quartered onion and a bit of crushed rosemary leaf, inside the
Stir with the fork to make a smooth gravy, over medium low heat. turkey. You can even shake in a little salt and pepper. Invert a plate
Season with a pinch of black pepper, a little salt, and at least a level in the bottom of your roast pan ... (What now? Oh, well, any pan
tsp. of MSG. Lots of people like this country-style chicken gravy with the bird will fit into. Yes, you can use a rack or a trivet, or a small
their fried chicken. Some of our friends even say, "Why bother with radiator grill for all I care!) Set your "turkeyette" on this plate, breast
the whole bit, if you don't get some of that sweet, creamy gravy?" side up. Have the oven at 300°, shove the thing in and forget it for an
Hmmmm!
hour. Then turn it over and baste it with a little grease, or beer, or
The foregoing pages certainly seem to cover many aspects of a sherry, and forget it for another hour.
standard chicken cookery; almost all can be done in a small kitchen, (My Gawd! What now? No, you don't need to cover, if you are
with a minimum of equipment, time, and expense. Of course, there cooking at this very low heat, and for lots of reasons we recommend
are other fine things· to do with chicken, but you confirmed chicken this temperature.) Turn the bird over once more, with the breast again
queens will just have to play it by ear if you want other variations on up; it should by now be browning up nicely. A fork into that thick part
the theme. Good hunting!
of the leg will let you know if it has cooked through. If you like the
TURKEY oven a little hotter-say to 375°-for another 15-20 minutes, it will give
a little more rich brown to the turkey. Your small bird-up to about 8-10
Mere mention of the holiday bird is apt to bring mouthwatering Ibs.-should roast through in 2J~hours or slightly less, at 300°. In any
pictures to mind. A well done turkey always looks delish, and probably case, you simply keep on roasting until the forked leg no longer runs
pink. If this prolonged roasting is required, be sure to keep basting
146
147
 the rest of the turkey with pan juices, to keep it all moist. And there There's another angle-these days you can buy "turkey parts" in
you have it. most markets; sometimes a half-turkey is a very suitable buy or even
Oh, now you want TURKEY GRAVY also. Okay, but let's do it the a single large breast and a large thigh (these are the meatiest parts,
easy way; first let's have a can of brown gravy (probably beef) on and that's for us, anytime.) Just roast these pieces, basting constantly;
hand. You will find that you may have between one and 2 cups of when the thickest parts don't 'ooze' and the surface is nicely browned,
grease and juices in the roast pan after removing the turkey and the your turkey is cooked. It's as easy as that to serve roast turkey.
plate. Strain off a little more than a cup of that turkey stock that's been
simmering, add 2 chicken bouillon cubes to it-OR-l rounded Tbs. of BOILED TURKEY
MSG. Add the can of gravy (a scant 2 cups) to this stock. Let it simmer. Left-over turkey can always be used, just as is cold chicken, in
Chop the boiled gizzard and liver quite fine, set them aside. Put the a la King, salad, hash, curry, soup, sandwiches, etc. And in nearly final
roast pan on a top burner; if there is a considerable excess of fat, pour word, pieces of raw turkey may be simmered to just tender (see Boiled
or skim some away; add a couple of Tbs. of flour to the pan. Stir with Chicken) with pretty much the same result; and this method will also
a whip, incorporating all the juices and pan bits. Add a little salt and give you a nice pot of turkey (soup) stock. Drained, carved, (this
pepper; then work in the stock and gravy, gradually. Let this cook means sliced) and with a turkey gravy of sorts over it, it's pretty nearly
slowly for about 10 minutes; strain it all off into a pot; let set a few the same as turkey roasted the long and hard way. Besides, maybe you
minutes, then remove fat from the top. If the gravy is too thick, thin
don't even have an oven so you simmer it over a hotplate!
it with a little stock, or even with a little Sherry. Add about a half cup
of-cranberry jelly (or other tart red jelly) to the sauce; then stir in the
TURKEY STEAKS OR CUTLETS
chopped giblets. Now you had better have it in the top of a double
boiler, where you can keep it hot until you serve dinner. You have One more fine recipe idea, and we'll stop talking turkey. In fact,
a very fine Turkey GIBLET GRAVY. Also, by now, the turkey itself we consider this one of our very best recipes-for anything-and hope
will have rested long enough to be ready to carve. (Way back there that many try it. Buy a raw, large, breast of turkey, with no bone. Slice
somewhere we learned that any roast should set for as much as 30 it across the grain into steaks or cutlets. These may be from }~to %
minutes, before cutting. If you cut it the instant the roast comes out inches thick. Dip each piece (carefully) into seasoned flour (we do
of the oven, all the juices and most of the flavor will run out where not suggest breading), and fry them in oil-butter or oil-bacon-fat, 'til
you have hacked into it. Aside from this, the rest allows the meat to they are cooked through and tender. The steaks will probably cut more
firm up and it is easier and better to cut up or carve. Y'see, there's easily if the whole breast is partially frozen; but be sure that they are
reasons for all these mad but trifling details.) So, we've got a nicely completely thawed out before frying. Frankly, this can be turkey at
roasted small turkey. Let's carve it! its very best, and simplest. Served with a very cold cranberry sauce
We do hope that as you planned this meal, you didn't make the or jelly or other tart jelly, this is just wonderful. Why, we wonder,
common mistake of assuming that you could feed just dozens of people didn't someone think of this sooner? Or did they?
from that small gump. Well, perhaps you'd better figure on this just a
bit. These small birds-the ones that are bred to be this size-are any-
where from 2/5 to 3/5 bone and structure. This means that out of that
DUCKS
cute little 5 lb. "thing" you may get 2 to 3 Ibs. of edible meat, and about Well ladies, ducks make for some very fancy eating, but they and/or
half of this will be breast. So, this means 3 fairly generous dinners, their preparations are seldom inexpensive. Like so many nice things
possibly 4 skimpy ones. Take all this into mind as you purchase the you'd like to do, it'll cost ya!
critter. Of course, as turkeys get big, the percentage of bone and stuff Besides, there are some wildly differing schools of thought about
is less; but we aren't talking about any 25 lb. vulture in this essay. It cooking ducks. Some chefs say that they should be [Oked rare; and
all boils down to this: if you decide you want to feed 6-get a small- others favor well done. Of course, this little miscon eption is easily
bred of not less than 10 lbs. About 6-7 Ibs. will be meat, but some of done away with. There are wild ducks or game bird , and there are
that not the choicest. If you should get a 10 lb. large bred turkey then tame or commercially-raised ducks that all (supposedly) come from
your percentage of meat would be about 4 Ibs. and that wouldn't just Long Island. Suffice to say that the two types are very different, and
do it for 6. you don't cook 'em the same way. We like our game birds on the rare

148 149
 side (and they certainly are, here of late). Birds from the market we roasting we baste occasionally with fresh-squeezed orange juice; in all,
like well cooked so that the execss fats will cook out. As these last are we'll need about a quart of this stuff; and we'll use about )~of it in this
the most readily obtainable;that's the kind we'll gas about in a brief basting. As the Duck roasts, we filet a couple of meaty fresh oranges.
few paragraphs.
This means that we peel 'em, then remove all the white pith. (What?
We roast an average 5-6 lb. duck for at least an hour, at 325°, turn- Who's lisping?) Then, we cut out the segments of meat leaving the
ing it several times. We put a little rosemary in each, also a half onion, dividing tissues. In a small saucepan we bring a half-cup of our remain-
a piece of celery, a bay leaf, maybe even an old tired apple. After a full ing juice to a boil, then whip into it 1 cup sugar. We boil 'til this dis-
hour (and the duck is not yet completely cooked) we consider how solves, making a light syrup. Reducing the heat, we put the raw orange
we'll 'fancy it up'. There are dozens of standard and erotic preparations segments into this syrup and let them cook over very low heat for
for these tasty birds; wr favor three and this is how we do these: about 30 minutes.
When our duck has roasted an hour-or just a little more-and is all
DUCK WITH OLIVES
evenly browned and tested (the fork!) almost done, we take it from
We coarsely chop a !~lb. of bacon; cook it lightly over low heat in the roast pan and set it in another pan, removing all the vegetables and
a skillet to 'tryout' as much fat as possible without unduly crisping stuff we put inside. (These we discard.) We drain all the juices, fat,
the bacon bits. We strain off this fat (sure we save it; bacon fat is and scrapings from the roastpan, into a saucepan. Again we let the fat
nearly the best thing there is to fry stuff in!) and we set the bacon bits rise to the surface and carefully skim it off. (This will leave a very little
aside. We cut up 1 cup celery, 1 cup green onions, 1 or 2 small garlic residue; don't be surprised.) To this we add what's left of our orange
buds, )~ lb. fresh mushrooms, 2 cups green olives (preferably not juice, the syrup drained from the orange segments, which we've
stuffed, but these could be used), and 1 cup pitted ripe olives. skimmed out and set aside on a plate; and a heaping cup of orange
Our duck has roasted an hour and is a nice light brown all over; marmalade (yeah, that jelly stuff.) We add a good pinch of mustard,
we take it out of the roast pan and set it in another pan, pouring a cup and let this sauce slowly heat. We return the duck to the roastpan, pour
of sherry 'or vermouth over it, and return it to the oven which we have a cupful of brandy over it, and light it. This can be done on the top of
batted down to 175°-200°. We dump the olives and vegetables, into the stove, or even under the broiler. We turn the duck around in the
the first roast pan with all the juices and fats from roasting the bird, flames, basting it, with them until they die down. (This operation
and put this pan over medium heat on top of the stove. We let this seems maybe just too much; but it very definitely adds a lot to the
simmer, covered, until the vegetables are tender, about 15-20 minutes. flavor and cooks the skin to a nice crispness.) The duck is set aside in
Scrape the pan, and rinse it out with another cup of sherry through a a warm place, for 15 or 20 minutes after pouring the residue of fat and
strainer. The liquid goes into a saucepan and the goodies are set to one brandy from the pan into the sauce. Then the whole duck is carved into
side. As soon as a considerable amount of fat has risen to the surface portions (4 or 5 generous ones ) and the sauce is poured over the serv-
of the liquid, we carefully ladle it off. When there is no further fat on ings. The meat is finally garnished with the candied orange segments.
the surface of the juice, we return the vegetables and olives to the Duck Bigarade or Duck a la Orange is a real tasty, real pretty, too!
sauce, with the bits of bacon. For some weird reason we always throw
in a couple of washed and chopped anchovies at this point. DUCK a la MONTMORENCY
We take the duck out of the oven, adding the juice of that pan to
our sauce. After letting the bird 'set' for about 20 minutes, we carve it Our other specialty (for ducks, dearie, and stop that tittering back
as required. We serve the pieces of meat on service plates, spooning there) is the Happy House version of Duck a la Montmorency. Where
the olives, vegetable, bacon, and sauce over the meat. Tasty! do they get those names? Well, if you're really interested, the Mont-
morencys were a long line of French Dukes, dating from 11th or 12th
DUCK a la ORANGE-DUCK BIGARADE century. Part of the northeastern suburbs of Paris were Montmorency
land and chateau. Probably most notable of the dukes was one who was
This is a real cutey! We will not even attempt to outline the very a marshal of France, and constable of France about the year 1500.
complicated proper preparation for the sauce and garnish, instead we'll As a matter of fact, the next four or five dukes in the line were also
tell just how we do it at Happy House. First we roast a duck as above, marshal and constable of France. They were great soldiers who lived
adding a halved orange to the innards and omitting the bay leaf. While hard and died young. The first great marshal (mentioned) was named
150
151
'Anne' and he was an extremely vigorous and sensual man. He loved you to try it. Just stuff 'em. Maybe you'll toothpick a piece of bacon
cherries; seemingly, so did the rest of Montmorency clan. Most of them over the breast (to keep that meat moist); and just roast the little
died violent deaths, but certainly seemed to have lived it up while it birds at 325 for 40-50 minutes. (This is for stuffed birds; unstuffed
0

lasted. (Then, there were the cherries ... ) Anyway, history nothwith- they would roast in half this time, but could also dry up.) When they
standing, Duck a la Montmorency is something like a duck with are nicely brown all over, and fork tender at the thickest part, they're
cherries Jubilee. Oh hell, Maude, let's have it all. ready. A little plain almond butter goes very well on these and you
First you roast your duck (see above); then set it in a clean pan in don't even have to make a gravy or sauce. A hungry, he-man type can
a 175 oven. Drain the excess fat off the pan juices; set the roaster, (the
0
eat 2 or 3 if he can get 'em; there's really not much there.
pan you roasted the bird in) on a top burner over medium low heat.
Put in a medium sized can (about 2)~cups) of pitted black cherries, POULTRY STUFFINGS
with their juice. Add a good cupful or even a little more of tart red This is probably as good a place as any to have a few words about
jelly (plum, red currant, etc.) When all this melts together, add about poultry dressings -or stuffings. Call it what you will, some like it, some
B~ level Tbs. of cornstarch dissolved in 4 Tbs. of cold water. Whip this don't. We like good, savory dressing with some meats and poultry;
into the near-boiling sauce, bring to boil; when it clears, add few drops but we admit it is usually extremely fattening (full of calories). On
of deep-red color and a dash of soy sauce. Turn off heat, let sauce set the other hand, it will build up a lotta skimpy portions.
for a few minutes; skim all fat from surface; add 2 jiggers (2 oz.) of As you must all know, the base of most stuffings, for large birds at
high-proof (90 or 100) brandy. Serve this sauce with the cherries in least, is bread. Nowadays, this can be bought all cut up, seasoned,
it over the carved portions of the duck. Easy? vitaminized, and toasted. All you have to do is soak it a little if you're
Except to mention a wonderful Mexican duck dish called Pato can going to make that kind of stuffing. Usually added to the bread base,
Mole (for which we advise you to apply to a genuine Mexican res- will be vegetables, sometimes meats, herbs, seasonings, often eggs. It
taurant, after giving several days notice) we'll let these three recipes may also include rice, potato, even fruit. Most often the bread is old
do for ducks. There are hundreds of others; none of these preparations or stale, so it is usually soaked in some milk and/or water (or even
are particularly difficult-( except for that "pressed duck" bit, where wine! ); then, most of this liquid is squeezed out and discarded so that
you have to have a sort of silver-vice-meatgrinder-sieve with some very the dressing will not be soggy.
fancy attachments and a licensed Parisian engineer to operate it). Like The slightly cooked vegetables, plus any added features, are mixed
so many things they do in Paris, it really isn't worth all the whoops-de- with the bread, herbs, seasonings, and usually an egg or two. And
do. You're apt to find the whole thing is a bit expensive. And frankly that's it. The stuff may actually be put into the bird about ~ full or
a duck is only a duck, and we wouldn't pay that kind of money for a many cooks find it more practical and easier to just put the dressing into
good goose! a well-greased pan and bake it alongside the bird in the oven.
We feel that about equal parts of bread and vegetables, make for
SQUABS, ROCK CORNISH, Etc. a good dressing. In brief, here are a couple of suggested mixtures that:
would do nicely for a 12-18 lb. turkey:
Of course, there are all kinds of other fine-eatin' birds we could
discuss here; f'rinstance we are sure you all know what to do about a BASIC STUFFING (Dressing):
good Goose? (If these rough types would only trim their nails!) We'll 4 cups bread-crumbed or diced 2 small buds garlic-minced
just let you do your own camping with this one; the goose is not a suit- 2 cups milk 2 eggs -
able bird to cook in a small apartment, and so we'll pass, with dignity, 4 Tbs. bacon (01' other) fat I Tbs. MSG
to other small birds that you will find in the market. These would in- 1 cup onions-chopped 1 tsp. coarse black pepper
clude Squabs, and Rock Cornish birds. Well, any of these little numbers 1 cup celery-chopped 1 Tbs. salt
is just dandy-if you like dainty, tender little numbers, without too J~ cup green pepper-chopped 1 Tbs. oregano leaves
much on them. (Maybe we'd better try that big, fat goose?) J~ cup chopped parsley, rinsed, then 1 tsp. basil leaves
If we do get the small birds, and often they come already stuffed squeezed out dry in cloth 1 Tbs. baking powder
(but frozen), they are best if they are first boned out; if you know J~ to 1cup chopped bacon or pork 1 Tbs. sugar (opt.)
how to do this, that's fine; if you don't, it's quite a job, we don't advise sausage scraps
152 153
 Soak break in milk; squeeze it out, discarding milk. Saute vege- skillet, cook 'til bacon is nearly crisped. Add rice mixture, season-
tables and herbs in fat, 'til vegetables are just tender, (covered- ings, the beaten egg last, with skillet off the fire. Stuff mixture into
about 5 minutes); add meat, cook about 5 minutes stirring all small birds, or bake it separately in a greased casserole for 30
together. Add vegetables and meat to bread in large mixing bowl; minutes. To crust, grease, oil or butter top.
stir in eggs, add seasonings and baking powder. Stuff into bird And that's enough for dressings except to say that we often add
or bake in well greased pan covered with heavy paper oiled on fresh or dried fruits such as new cranberries to turkey stuffing; maybe
both sides. Panned dressing will need about 1 hour at 325° (same also some chopped tart red apple. Pineapple, orange, and even chopped
temperature as you are roasting turkey at, one hopes). Remove nuts if you don't overdo the nuts bit seem to do things for a dressing
paper from pan and cook 30 minutes longer to brown top. for roast chicken. For duck and some small birds, chopped dried apri-
cots or dried prunes, make for real taste sensations. Hell, girl, use your
OLD SOUTH CORNBREAD STUFFIN' imagination and clean up some of the odds and ends on hand, There's
They like it this way, down South: At least ~ to 7~of the bread (see nothing like cleaning up an odd end on a dull winter's evening!
basic stuffing, above) should be old, tired, crumbled cornbread, or
corn muffins, or corn pone, etc. Use same quantities of vegetables, RABBIT
herbs, seasonings, etc.; cut parsley to 2 Tbs. Added bacon or ham scraps The very thought of rabbit always reminds us of at least a couple
may be used, or more of the sausage. After mixture is made as above, of silly anecdotes. One is a story told of Honolulu in the late '30's. At
work in 2 cups whole kernel corn or even drained cream-style corn. the time, all poultry, produce, dairy products, etc., came in on the
Mix again, and bake as above. weekly boat from the Mainland. This was on Thursday. Of course
The above two recipes should give you the idea; use more celery there was no air freight then, so
for CELERY STUFFING; added sage (or oregano) for a SAGE the stuff had to last a week.
DRESSING. Add a pint or so of cutup oysters, plus their juices; and Chickens, could be plentiful in
cut the vegetables by half for a fine tasty OYSTER STUFFING. And the markets on Friday, but about
so it goes. (Y'see, honey, once you get the general idea of the thing, the following Tuesday were very
it goes real easy! Tasty, too!) hard to find.
Also, among the varied spe-
WILD RICE STUFFING cialties sold, were young rabbits.
For smaller birds, a lotta people at once think of wild rice stuffing; Not too many were shipped, so
this is peachy-dandy, until you find out that wild rice cost about 2.50 these became a demanded deli-
a lb. Who wants it! An even tastier reasonable facsimile is used in our cacy at fancy prices. All were in-
"Not-so-Wild Rice Stuffing": (for small birds, as squabs, Rock Cornish, variably snapped up early on
etc. ) Friday. Then, a native butcher'
~~cup raw long-grain rice; cooked half done, drained (down near Aala Park) began to
1 cup medium Kasha (Buckwheat Groats) have lots of dressed rabbit in his
1 medium onion, minced I cases, and often at a price way
3 green onions, minced salt & pepper below that of other merchants.
6-10 small fresh mushrooms, cut up dash nutmeg These others couldn't figure out
3 strips bacon, minced pinch basil leaves where he was getting them. At
1 tsp. MSG 1fresh egg this same time, the local police
department was plagued with reports of a gang of kids that were
Cook rice 10 minutes in lots of boiling water (it won't be done); stealing cats in the most respectable neighborhoods. Yeah! You've
dump it into a colander, wash and drain. Cook kasha in l~ cup got the picture. This clever butcher had these kids out gathering in his
water, covered, 10 minutes over low heat. The grains will absorb "rabbits." For many years afterwards, following a daring expose, it was
the water; mix with the rice. Put onion and bacon into heavy almost impossible to sell rabbit in Honolulu.

154 155
 T'other bit (also true) is about a mad old swish we know, who the pan the rabbit was fried in, covered, and cooked 5 minutes or so.
often entertains at dinner, and frequently serves rabbit. Does it very Excess fat is drained off; the vegetables placed into a largish casserole
well, too. As guests are happily enjoying the succulent meat, this silly with the pieces of rabbit on top. A sprinkle of MSG, salt, pepper, and
old extrovert goes on gaily about how "poor she is and finally admits a half tsp. of oregano leaves goes over this. A couple of strips of raw
that the piece de resistance is-or was-a neighbor's prized Persian. bacon are chopped and added to the pot. Two cups-or more-of some
The astounded diners sit, their full mouths agape, as this sad old char- dry white wine (sauterne, chablis, reisling, etc.) are poured over; the
acter continues, "You can always say that you ate pussy at my house!" 0
casserole is covered, put into a 350 oven for l)~ hours. The cover may
Reactions are varied, from disbelief to violence; she seldom has to serve be removed for the last 15-20 minutes. Dished right out of the casserole,
dessert. some of the vegetables are served with each portion of the meat.
Young rabbit, at your butcher's, costs about twice as much as chick- Buttered mashed potatoes go well with this. Incidentally, a large old
en, but is still economical in comparison to steak or good roast. It is hen-too tough to fry-can also be prepared this way for really good
actually a tender and delightful meat, and can be prepared in almost eating, (and it's inexpensive, too).
any way that chicken can be served; some styles seem to be traditional.
HARE PIE
FRIED RABBIT
Whilst browsing in an old Spanish cookbook (we do this all the
Proceed exactly as with Grandma's Fried Chicken. Let the butcher time) we noted an interesting recipe for Pastel de Liebre, after a
cut the rabbit up for frying; they weigh between 3 and 5 lbs. Dip the minute or so of mental translation, we realized this was Hare Pie. Well!
pieces into seasoned Hour, into buttermilk, again into Hour-and then Certainly such a dish has a place in this book so, here is a somewhat
fry' em. A crustier piece is possible if you do the buttermilk bit a second Americanized adaption:
time, and the Hour once more too. Best fat to fry rabbit in is % good oil
or shortening, with J~ bacon fat. Keep turning the pieces until they 1 young rabbit (dressed or cleaned, about 3 lbs.)
are evenly light brown and put the pieces onto a pan and into a 375 0
!~lb. lean veal, diced
oven for about 15 minutes to complete cooking. Meanwhile drain off !~lb. lean pork, diced
most of the fat from the skillet; toss in a couple of Tbs. of seasoned 3 oz. bacon-diced
Hour (leftover from the Houring) and clean the pan over low heat to 3 oz. lean ham-diced
a sort of dry paste. Add a little milk to the buttermilk you used as a 1 scant tsp. Salt
dip, so that there are a couple of cups; gradually pour this into the good pinch nutmeg
paste in the skillet, stirring like a mad thing with a whip or a fork. 1 tsp. MSe
When the liquid is all incorporated and the lumps are all worked out, !~tsp. crumbled oregano
simmer for 5-8 minutes over low. heat. Season this country gravy with !4 tsp. white pepper
a very little MSG, salt and pepper. A light pinch of crumbled oregano 1 large egg-l egg white
leaves stirred in will point up the exciting gamey flavor one imagines 4 Tbs. fresh bread crumbs
to be with rabbit, but don't overdo this herb. 2 oz. brandy
We like plain boiled hominy, drained and buttered, with our fried !~cup sliced mushrooms, drained
rabbit, and a tartly dressed salad. Cold pieces of fried rabbit are just !~cup stuffed olives, sliced (opt.)
as tasty for a midnight snack as are cold fried chicken. !~cup blanched pine nuts
very rich pastry for 2 crusts
CASSEROLE RABBIT 9" pie. May be puff-paste
This is sort of a simple adaption of the classic jugged hare. The melted butter OR!~ oz. brandy
pieces of rabbit are floured and lightly fried, then set aside. A medium 1 egg yolk with 2 Tbs. water
onion is sliced thinly; a bud of garlic is minced; a couple of stalks of Take all meat" (rawl ) off rabbit bones; discard bones, liver, heart.
celery and half of a green pepper are sliced; a half pound of fresh Mix with pork and veal. Chop together fine, with knife or knives;
mushrooms are washed and sliced. All these vegetables are put into do not grind. Mix together with 1 egg plus one white, the season-
156 157
 ings, nuts, brandy. Cook this mixture in a pan over hot water (as AMANDINE: Add some shredded almonds to the pan butter; cook
in a large double boiler) for 1 hour, stirring with wooden spoon. a few minutes to lightly brown them. Add a drop or two of lemon
It will not brown (of course!) but meat should cook through. Fry juice, and a drop 'of almond extract. No parsley. Pour over the legs.
bacon in a skillet just enough to render out much of the fat, which A la FIGARO: into the pan butter some small dice of red and green
we'll save but won't use here. Do not crisp the bacon. Line a large pepper that have been 'blanched' or partly cooked-(brought to a boil
pie-pan with rich pastry; put in a thin layer of the meat mixture; in water, then drained); add a few pieces of chopped small onion; a
then few crumbs, the ham, bacon mushrooms, olives. Press down; .very ripe tomato that has been peeled and chopped and with as many
have at least three thin layers of the meat, with the other items of the seeds removed as possible. Add a good pinch of sweet basil
sort of pressed down into each layer. Top layer. Top layer should leaves. Cover pan; cook 5-8 minutes; pour this sauce over the legs
be meat; brush this with a little soft butter or with 3~oz. brandy 'a la Figaro. And so it goes.
or both. Cover with rich pastry top (best if this is puff-paste). Frog Legs Provencale: To pan butter (after lightly frying the legs)
Make air vents; seal at edges. Paint top with the egg-yolk beaten add a very little oil, and let it heat. Add tomato (as for Figaro, above),
with little water. Chill in box for about 1 hour. (Don't put it in a small bud of garlic, minced very fine or put through a press, a
box 'til meat mixture is thoroughly cold.) Bake in 400° oven for chopped anchovy, a little green onion, and 3 or 4 stuffed green olives,
30 minutes; reduce to 350° for another 30 minutes. Pie should sliced or chopped. Season with coarse black pepper, a pinch of orega-
be a nice glazed brown. Take out of oven, set pan on rack to cool. no, no salt. And that, m'dears, poured over your legs, makes 'em 'a la
May be taken from pan and served when just barely warm or the Provencale!
pie may be thoroughly cooled, then chilled in 'fridge, and served And that's the way it is-very briefly-with chickens, rabbits, ducks,
cold. Cut in very thin wedges; serve as an appetizer with drinks, turkeys, frog legs, and such. Of course, there's the school of thought
etc. Obviously can be handily made ahead. And think of all the that says, Oh, hell, why bother to feed 'em at all. Give 'em an old tired
campin' and carryin' on, when you serve your guests with this beer ... (which some can even drink laying down.) It's funny, but
fine, home-made HARE PIE. when you find that they can do this easily, you know damned well
they've been there before!
FROG LEGS .:.
Here we have another exotic meat, and again, you can do almost
anything with frog legs that you can do with chicken. However, the
day of fresh country frogs legs has passed; the ones you buy now are
invariably frozen, often with little taste. Most come from Japan
(where the Japanese won't eat them); but, ya' got your little heart
set on a mess of Frawg Laigs (Louisiana translation) , let's have' em.
There are several very standard preparations; Grenouilles (French)
Rane (Italian), Meuniere, Amandine, a la Figaro, Provencale, etc.
All of these styles of cooking the frog legs start in about the same
way; you flour the completely thawed and wiped legs, then lightly
fry them . . . ("saute" to you French girls). Take 'em outa the pan
and put 'em into another pan and into the 375° oven for 10-15 minutes,
or less if they are very small. MEUNIERE: drain most of the cooking
fat from the frying pan; in this case it will be butter and oil and add
a couple of Tablespoons of soft butter to the pan. Don't let it burn.
Toss in 2 or 3 Tbs. of strained fresh lemon juice, a couple of teaspoons
of finely minced parsley. Swish this around the pan a minute, and
pour over the legs to serve. (As you can see, this is a standard Meu-
niere. )

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 CHAPTER NINE
Sauces, Gravies and other
Brownish Delights

Brown Gravy, basic Mustard Sauce

White Sauce, basic Onion Sauce
Spanish Sauce, basic soubise
clarified butter sauce Robert
Meat Glaze Piquante Sauce
Sweet Sauces Poivrade Sauce
au buerre Port Wine Sauce
Maitre d' Raisin Sallce .
Barbecue Sauce Poulette Sauce
Bearnaise Provencale Sauce
Bercy Sauce Supreme Sauce
Bigarade Tomato Sauce
Bordelaise (California) Vin Blanc
Casper Sauce Butters:
Cheese Sauce Almond
Chutney Sauce Lemon
Country Gravy' Meuniere
Red-Eye Gravy Parsley
Cream Gravy (and Sauce) Buerre Noir
Curry Sauce Fines Herbes
Diable Sauce Tarragon
Egg Sauce Mint
Fines Herbes Sauce Anchovy
Fricassee Sauce
Avgo-Lemono
Blanquette de Veau
Horseradish Sauce
Glace de Viande
cold horseradish cream
Hollandaise Sauce
Madeira Sauce
Mousseline Sauce
Caper
Meat Sauce
Garlic
Mexican Sauce
pasta aU' aglio, etc.
Mornay Sauce
Bercy Butter
Mushroom Sauce
etc .

161
 NINE
~:.( ••:••).: ••:••:••:••:••).: ••).: ••:••:••:••:••:••).: ••).: ••).)( ••:.-:••:••).: ••:••:••:••:.•:•..:..:••:••:••).: ••:••:••:••,.( ••).,..:.( ••:.( •.)+:••:••).).).)

Let us say at once that the subject of sauces and gravies is one of
the most extensive in cooking; in fact, in French cuisine, for example,
the 'sauce' is often of more importance than the meat. Well, while we'll
go along with the French bit to a certain extent, we cannot whole-
heartedly endorse this viewpoint.
While many old-time professional cooks may believe that the old
methods were best, modem sauce-cooking-even in commercial quan-
tities-has become necessary; this because the old ways were not only
costly in materials, they were often endlessly time-consuming, even
required the full attention of one or more experienced sauciers. Large
restaurant and hotel kitchens featured batteries of great stock pots
and cauldrons, where broths and juices of meats, vegetables and sea-
sonings, could be reduced to an essence by long simmering and care.
Modem food facilities must be compact (the space once generously
given to the kitchen may now be partly used as dining space, to seat
more customers). Exorbitant wages now keep the kitchen crew at a
minimum. There is no money for specialists to make a pot of gravy.
So, with some regret, modern professional cooks use substitutes
such as ready-made essences, flavors, colors, and consistencies. Strange-
ly enough, the old names hang on; yes, we still have the old standards
on the menu, and the diner is led to expect the sauce (or gravy, or
garniture and service) to be as it once was, when so named. The best
he can expect today is reasonable facsimile.
This culinary revolution has also taken place in home-cooking, hav-
ing even reached the unhappy ultimate of the T.V. Dinner, (Ugh!).
No longer does the mistress of the house have a big range to stand
over all day long, turning out those great home-style meals that started
grandfather's ulcer. The "mistress" of the house may not even live in
a house but in a modern and compact (God knows!) apartment. In
fact, the "mistress" may not even be a "she" at all! Whoever and what-
163
 ever our homebody is, she may have to cope with a three-burner range, call a Creole. The small point here is that you may browse in some
or even a set of hot-plates with a separate oven to set on one of these. fancy cookbook and note references to use an espanol, Look it all
So our recipes for sauces and gravies, and the methods of preparation over carefully, because it probably means brown gravy. Similarly, in
suggested here, will certainly follow this modern line; however, remem- the classic tradition we have sauce bechamel, sauce supreme, sauce
bering the old ways with some nostalgia, we'll try to keep these facsi- veloute, even sauce fricassee. In our poor, old, modern American con-
miles as reasonable as possible. cept these are cream gravies. Silly, but the people that put 'em in cans,
Let's just insert in here a hard and fast rule for almost all sauce and can't use the word cream unless a certain percentage of cream is in
gravy cooking; use either large or small pots as required, but they must the product so the canned ones are simply called white sauce. Admit-
be of heavy metaI. Thin pots will invariably scorch and/or burn sauces. tedly, each of the sauces named above has some distinctive ingredient
For complete safety with white and cream sauces, or any that have an or method of preparation, and there were certainly reasons for their
excess of milk, cream, butter, or flour use a double-boiler. And take it being called bechamel, veloute, supreme, etc., but modern American
easy, gaI. cooks, in most instances, simply use a variation of a good cream sauce,
That rule laid down, how then does our more-or-Iess amateur cook and the canned white sauce is a pretty good base, ready-made. Remem-
make, say, a brown gravy to be served with a meal for 2,3, or 4? Easy! ber, at the start of this chapter, we said that we'd deal in reasonable
He (she, or whatever) buys it. (Oh, stop giggling back there!) That's facsimiles; if these substitutions in method and ingredients throw you
right, at the market or grocery, you buy a can of brown gravy and into a tizzy, we suggest you skip this chapter, and refer to the Louis
then heat it to use as needed. In fact, it's real smart to always have Diat Book on Sauces; or to Reinhofer's Epicurean, or to Louis DeGou-
some on hand. Well, we guess that takes care of that! The same may ey's Gold Cook Book. Oh, there's all kinds of cookbooks, and some are
be said of white sauce, tomato sauce, cheese sauce, and even a few pretty good. As noted way, way back there, this one is conceived for a
others in some large market. This would seem to leave only the butter particular cook, in a particular situation. So there!
sauces and some rather special light sauces. All cooks with any experience make sure to make a little more than
As simple and glib as that last seems to be, we'll go back a bit to, enough brown gravy, when preparing their roast, stew, etc. Properly
say, BROWN GRAVY. Suppose you build a nice browned stew, or cooled and sealed in a container, this extra gravy should keep for a
do a pot roast or a Swish Steak-one of the results should be a lot of reasonable time in the 'fridge. It may be used in a lot of dishes and
good rich meaty gravy. This is because you haye cooked meat, vege- preparations, where a little of such a sauce is indicated, such as in
tables, seasonings, slowly over a period of hours in a suitable liquid. Chicken Livers Saute or for the sauces for veal cutlets or sorrie chicken
The result of this, when properly strained, with excess fat removed, preparations.
Next best to having some home-made Brown Gravy on hand is
and then thickened to a suitable to have a can or so of it in the cupboard. There are quite a few brands;
consistency, is (s'help us) Brown
take your pick. Most are rather bland and we find that they will need
Gravy. It may need a touch of color a little 'pepping up' with a good dash of dehydrated garlic, or a spoon
for a deeper brown, or a little extra
or so of beef extract. A shot of wine may help, but the main thing is
seasoning; it may even be decided
to have that can there on the shelf, ready and waiting. You'll never be
that addition of a beef essence
sorry. In fact, we won't even attempt here to go into the pretty com-
would "beef up" the meaty flavor.
plicated procedure of making a brown gravy from scratch; it's just too
But, it is a good, basic Brown gravy.
damned much work for what you get. Go buy a couple of cans, Gert!
Let us confuse people at this One last word: saved brown gravy need not be all of one meat;
point: classic French cookbooks,
gravy from a beef pot roast will mix nicely (if both are at the same
~ II I and cuisines (many of which have
temperature when put together) with some turkey gravy, or pork; even
been literally translated to the work
a small amount of lamb gravy may be worked into other brown sauces.
of English-writing authorities call Too much however, might give a distinct lamb flavor. If your turkey
this standard brown gravy-or sauce
or chicken gravy has giblets in it, hell-just strain 'em out. A gravy
-an espaanol, or an espanol sauce. with some wine in it will go well with some gravy that hasn't; but a
What We (in this country) call a barbecue sauce, or a chili sauce, or one with some real strong flavor
Spanish sauce, those silly Frenchies
164 165
~

obviously won't work into an all-purpose brown gravy. mix together and wipe the pan. Allow this roux to cook slowly
The saved gravy-( or any gravy)-should not have a 'crust' or without browning for few minutes. Work in the seasonings, then
heavy surface; in fact, this indicates that too much flour or too little gradually stir in the milk or cream, carefully working out all
fat was used in thickening the gravy. Similarly, the gravy we're gonna lumps. Cook sauce slowly at least 5 minutes (to completely con-
use again should not have fat on the surface; this indicates that there vert the starch); put through a sieve, and use as required. This
was too little flour, or too much fat, in the thickening roux. There is should be a white sauce of medium consistency. Obviously more
a happy medium y'know. It is best, we think, to heat strange gravies or less liquid will thicken or thin the sauce. For added richness,
and sauces that are to be mixed; heating them separately, and to not this plain white sauce may have an egg yolk added to it in the
quite a boil. Excess fat will surface and it can be easily removed; the following manner. While completed sauce is still very hot, the egg
too thick gravy can have that crust taken off and it can be slightly yolk (or yolks) is beaten in a separate small pan or bowl. A little
thinned. How? Toss in a cup of coffee, or a little wine, or a half can of of the hot sauce is worked into the egg; then a bit more.
beer, or what have you!
Then this egg mixture is whipped back into the pot of sauce. The
This last in all seriousness. We've found that a fine substitute stock
egg will add to the richness, color, and body of the sauce, and it will
(for use in small quantities) is leftover coffee! The coffee flavor cooks
thicken it. A little warmed milk or cream may be added to get the
out at once, and the fine color intensifies. We very often use coffee in
sauce back to a medium consistency. The sauce should not be cooked
brown gravies and sauces. Beer and wine are certainly natural flavors,
over direct heat after the egg has been added, as this will make the
and as you'll be only using a very little to thin some other gravy, why
egg and the sauce curdle. Many bland white sauces do have an egg
not beer or wine? Or, if you want to be finnicky, what the hell, open
added to them. However a drop of commercial egg shade or egg color,
a can of consomme of bouillon, and there you have a real fine stock.
will make the sauce look as if the egg was there. Many cooks use a
When doctored up, pour the two-or more-gravies together, let them
dash of Tabasco (or other good pepper sauce) instead of the white
come to not quite a boil and strain them. Taste the result for seasoning;
pepper; almost all good cooks use a small pinch of nutmeg in white
add some if needed, and you're in business, with fine Brown Gravy.
or cream sauces.
We could devote 100 pages there to a discussion of brown gravy
This is a basic white sauce; during the rest of this chapter, we will
and things to do about it. For our declared purpose in this mad book,
beamed at the bachelor-girl (or either, or both!) we say about brown see how this may be used to make many other standard sauces.
gravy, save it or buy it. We'll have a little more to offer about certain SPANISH SAUCE
dark sauces, a bit further on; first let's do up these following basic
sauces ... This sauce (and this is a very general name) may also be called
Creole, Marinara, Neapolitan, Italian, etc. The very best way to be
WHITE SAUCES assured of success with this sauce, is long, slow cooking to blend the
A great many recipes that you'll run into will simply say: use a flavors of the vegetables, herbs, and seasonings. This will make 2-3
white sauce or a cream sauce. They may further specify thick, thin, or qts. of sauce:
medium. In a sense, this all purpose white sauce is the basis of many 2J~cups onions-chopped 2 Tbs. Basil Leaves
modem versions of -old-time sauces that stemmed from the distinct 1J~ cups celery-chopped 1 Bay Leaf
bechamel-veloute-supreme preparations. These were sometimes diffi- % cup green pepper-chopped J~ tsp. oregano leaves
cult, often expensive; in comparison to a modem white sauce. For ~ 1 cup leeks-chopped (opt.) J~ tsp. Spanish saffron (opt.)
cups: J~ cup garlic-chopped fine 1 Tbs. salt
2 Tbs. fat 2 pinches white pepper J~ lb. fresh mushrooms- 1 Tbs. sugar
2 Tbs. flour J~ tsp. salt chopped or sliced 1 Tbs. MSG
2 cups (warm) milk or cream I tsp. MSG one #3 can (3 cups) standard J~ tsp. ground cloves
Tomatoes 1 tsp. coarse ground black
And there you have it. Melt the fat in a heavy-bottomed pan. one #3 (3 cups) tomato Puree pepper
This fat may vary to suit the dish; it may be butter, oleo, shorten- 2 to 3 cups stock, chicken or J~ cup fat or oil
ing, oil, chicken fat, bacon fat, etc. Stir in the flour over low heat; consomme 4-5 Tbs. flour
166 167
 Melt fat in large, heavy pot; add vegetables, cover, cook 10 min- And there my dears! you have the basic sauces; and-ooh!-the
utes. Add herbs, seasonings except MSG. Stir together. Break up things you can do with these. Let's right quick go through a list of
tomatoes in a pan; add puree, )~of stock. Add this to vegetables. 40 or 50 more or less standard sauces, noting our modern adaptions.
Bring potful to boil slowly reduce heat to simmer. Cook over low Are you ready? But of course you are! Following some good, stand-
heat for 3-4 hours. Skim fat from top, strain this into small pot or ard hotel menus, let's see-we have:
empty can. Wash out herbs, etc. that remain in strainer (hold them
under the tap), then return these herbs to pot. Set strained fats AU BUERRE This means-roughly translated-"the way the boss
aside. After at least 3 hours cooking, heat fats in small separate in the kitchen wants it served." Often it indicates a light butter, diluted
pot, stir in Hour, make a roux. Gradually work in liquid from top with a little rich stock; with possibly parsley and a little lemon juice
of sauce, (drop a large strainer onto surface of stewing sauce. added. Served on fish, vegetables, some fried meats, etc.
It will fill with clear liquid; ladle out of this as needed); after BARBECUE SAUCE (See Chapt. 7)
thickener has about 2 cups of sauce liquid worked into it, and
all lumps worked out, this is then stirred into pot of sauce. Sauce BEARNAISE (See Hollandaise, a little farther on)
should be cooked at least another )~hour, over low heat, to thor-
oughly mix in the thickener. This will also tend to hold ingredients BERCY SAUCE This is often called a butter sauce, probably because
of sauce in suspension, rather than having all the solids at bottom, butter is the principal ingredient. Butter is melted (or some clarified
liquid on top. butter is used); some finely minced onion is cooked soft, in the butter-
not browned. Minced parsley is added, and some white dry wine is
This is a tasty, meatless Spanish Sauce usable for hundreds of stand- worked in. Sauce is brought to boil, heat reduced. For a white Bercy,
ard dishes. In the South, a Creole is liable to have some cut okra in it a little white sauce is worked in to make a thinnish sauce; a little meat
(usually canned), and in Louisiana it probably will have added pepper glaze added makes a dark Bercy, usually for meats.
as well as some gumbo file powder! (this is a New Orleans specialty,
used in some stews, sauces, and gumbos. It is actually powdered dried BIGARADE This is an orange sauce, much used on roast ducks
sassafras leaves; must be added just at end of cooking, as to cook the (Chapt. 8). We melt a cup of orange marmalade with a cup of clarified
powder will cause it to clot and become gummy). Spanish Sauce can butter; some marmalades will take less butter. Use this mixture, (hot),
be used with braised shortribs, with pork spareribs, over plain rice, as a sauce. We accent this with a dash of Soy Sauce.
with many fish, poultry, and vegetables.
Clarified Butter. In the preparation of many sauces, you are required BORDELAISE An original Bordelaise was a sort of red wine and
to use clarified butter; this is butter with water, whey, etc., removed. butter sauce, with sauteed shallots in it, pepper, poached bits of beef
While you may not realize it, there's more in that yellow cube than marrow, etc. We saute some minced garlic and onion in butter or oil;
you think, and there is a very simple, standard method of removing add a little brown gravy, same amount of dry red wine, season with
these things, leaving just pure butter. To clarify butter, put it in a tall, pepper, add a little minced parsley, a few pieces of diced poached
tubular metal container (what the hell! we use a clean tomato canl) bacon to the finished sauce. This, of course, is not a real Bordelaise, but
and set this in a larger pot of hot water. A very low heat may be kept that's what passes for it in California. Some local cooks have chopped
under this water, but it must not boil. In time, the butter in the can will mushrooms in it, too. The finished sauce is a rich, reddish-brown, and is
melt and separate; the clear oil will rise to the top and the whey (which not greasy. Garlic, wine, meat flavors predominate.
is water, salt, additives, and other gook) will go to the bottom of the
CAPER SAUCE A fine caper sauce or butter is served on fish, and
can. With a shallow ladle-or even bend the handle of a Tablespoon some bland meats such as boiled beef or mutton. A medium white
to form a ladle-carefully skim and dip out all this clear oil of butter, sauce is used; add a little lemon juice, some minced. parsley, and
leaving that nasty 0]' stuff in the bottom to discard. This clear butter-
chopped capers. About J~ cup of capers to 2 cups of sauce. Finished
oil is clarified butter. Simple, wasn't it? Incidentally, you may lose sauce is thinnish, white, and with green 'bits' in it. Caper butter, most
as much as liS by weight, so a pound of butter clarified, would only often used on fish, is clarified butter, with a little lemon juice, minced
give you 4/5 of a pound of the oil. Anyway, for future references to parsley, chopped capers added to it. Very tasty; sometimes served on
clarified butter, now you know.
breaded veal cutlets.
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169
 CREAM GRAVY This can be the same sort of thing as a milk or
CHEESE SAUCE A good, rich cheese sauce is often useful, to make country gravy, except that it is richer because it is made of cream, and
au Gratins, to serve with vegetables as a garnish sauce, on some meat some butter is used as part of the fat. It should be a rich, glossy ivory
dishes, pasta dishes, sandwiches, etc. The very best you can have (and in color, and very smooth. Cream Sauce is a name very casually used
probably better than you could ever make) comes in a can, labelled for almost any white sauce, and this may be something else again.
Cheddar Cheese Soup.
CURRY SAUCE (see Chapt. 4.)
CHUTNEY SAUCE This is occasionally used (in this country) as
a spicy meat sauce; it is too sweet to use on fish. To make a Chutney -DIABLE SAUCE (DEVIL SAUCE). A simple cold mixture of equal
Sauce, the bottled condiment is chopped fine and added, with some parts of dark mustard, catsup, and Worcestershire sauce, make a true
of its heavy juice, to a light brown gravy, or to a wine sauce, etc. Chut- sauce Diable. This is sometime worked into a hot brown gravy, (2
ney.is also sometimes added to mayonnaise or even one of the French parts gravy to 1 part diable ), and a little lemon juice and some minced
dressings, to make a Chutney Dressing, sometimes used nicely on parsley are tossed in as well. This is used as a hot sauce on bland meats,
fruit salads, etc. There is a little Chutney made in this country; it is such as boiled beef, tongue, pork chops, etc.
not similar to the standard bottled product from India. The bottled
condiment is moderately expensive. EGG SAUCE This is used on some vegetables and some fish dishes;
very seldom on meats. Chopped hard-cooked eggs, and minced pars-
COUNTRY GRAVY This is a sort of general term, but usually indi- ley, are added to a medium white or cream sauce. This is a very bland
cates a milk gravy made in the skillet after frying meat or poultry.
Most of the skillet's frying fat is poured off (save, of course) leaving sauce.
only 2 Tbs. with the fried 'brown bits' and scrapings in the skillet. An
FIN ES HERBES (Fine Herbs, as if you didn't know!) this is almost
equal amount of flour (2 Tbs.) is tossed in and the pan is "cleaned"
always a simple melted butter, to which a very little lemon juice and
as this is stirred up with the fat. Result will be a sort of dryish paste,
a mixture of various fine herbs are added. These last could include,
or raux; gradually we work in 2 cups of warmed milk or cream, over
parsley (minced), oregano, chervil, basil, rosemary, tarragon, mint,
medium heat, and cook slowly, whipping or stirring out any lumps.
etc., or any two or three of these. The herbs are simme'red for a few
Season with salt, black pepper, and there you have Country Gravy.
Throughout the South, when ham is cooked in a pan or skillet, minutes in the butter over low heat. If this sauce is to be held for any
after the meat is removed, flour is added, a dash of paprika or red length of time, it should be held over hot water. The butter would turn
pepper, then the milk, and finally a dash of vinegar. Result is a faintly dark over direct heat. Of course, fresh herbs, finely minced are better
red-pink gravy tasting of ham, called RED-EYE GRAVY. Real jazzy than dried herbs, crumbled, but these are often not available. These
with a ham steak. herb mixtures may also be added to light brown or wine gravies, to
make other herb sauces. All are good on fish, meats, vegetables, etc.
Current restaurant practice in making country gravy, is to use
saved bacon fat, then quickly to fry a couple of strips of bacon in this. FRICASSEE SAUCE This is a sauce for a bland meat stew, usually
Remove when crisp, chop and set aside. Then a couple of tablespoons of lamb, chicken or veal. It is made much in the manner of a cream
of minced onion are added to the hot grease in the pan. When the sauce, except that instead of using all milk for a liquid, we use part
onion is soft-though not necessarily browned-it is skimined out of cream, and part strong stock of the meat indicated. For instance, if
the grease, and is also set aside. Flour (about as much as there is we are making a Fricasse of Veal (a classic dish which those mad
grease or fat) is stirred in; also salt, pepper, MSG, and then warmed French called blanquette de oeau), we- would simmer our pieces of
milk. After stirring and cooking for a few minutes, when the gravy is veal (2 lbs, will serve 3 or 4) in water, adding a quartered onion, a
smooth, the chopped bacon and onion are returned to it. Restaurant stalk of celery, half a carrot, a small Bay Leaf, and a,small clove of
cooks also usually add a drop or two of egg shade (yellow color) to garlic. When meat is just tender, we drain off the liquid, carefully
make the gravy a pale ivory in color. And that's the way we do it at saving it, and put the drained meat to one side. We reduce the stock
Happy House, too. Tastes real good with chicken fried steaks and to about 3 cups. For this dish we would also prepare, separately, some
pork chops. boiled, cut carrots and celery, also some fresh or frozen peas. Then,
Actually, a standard German sauce or gravy, called Specksosse is in a heavy pot, we make our Fricassee Sauce:
made just this way, though sometimes a little meat glaze is added to it.
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....l.....
 2 Tbs. butter J~ tsp. white pepper
2 Tbs. shortening or oil !~tsp. MSG Bring a large pot of water to a near boil; have a metal (stainless
4J~Tbs. flour 1 to 1!~cups (warmed) cream steel is fine for this ) basin with a rounded bottom, that will fit on
!~tsp, salt 2!~to 3 cups strong stock from
top of the pot of water. The water level should not quite reach
the veal the bottom of the basin or bowl. In other words, the basin should
be over the hot water but not in it. If it is in the water, the bowl
We make our usual roux by melting fat, working in flour. Add
seasonings, cook 5 minutes gradually working in stock and cream
J becomes too hot, and cooks the eggs. (As this sauce is really very
tricky-we want to make sure you do it right-and it still may not
alternately; whip smooth, strain over veal or add veal to sauce. 'come out'. It even happens to long-experienced cooks, with Hol-
Add cooked celery and carrot; simmer together about 20 minutes landaise. )
and taste to correct seasoning if needed. Serve, using hot, drained Put the yolks and seasonings in the basin or bowl; whip them to-
green peas over top of portions as garnish. gether with a spring wire whip, (these come in all sizes, too). An
Lamb and chicken fricassee sauces are made the same way, using egg-beater might do the trick but we doubt it. Set the bowl over the
(of course, silly) lamb or chicken stock. The whole point is-( and we hot water; whipping steadily, and only in one direction, add a tsp. or
always want to get to the point, don't we? )-that you replace the milk so of the lemon juice. Drip the oil (or clarified butter) from a ladle or
of an ordinary white or cream sauce with cream and the stock of the spoon, slowly into the bowl. Keep whipping slowly-but keep it steady!
meat used. Gradually drip in all the oil. Before you do have it all in, the contents
of the bowl should thicken (like whipped cream). This is called "form-
GLACE DeVIANDE Very often some reference will be made, usually ing an emulsion." Dribble in some more of the lemon juice; then con-
for prestige, to glace de ouuule or demi-glace, or meat glaze. In great tinue dripping the oil; possibly a little heavier now. Whip steadily.
kitchens, this was formerly made, laboriously, by simply cooking beef The whole bit will either stand up properly in 12-15 minutes, or it will
and vegetable stocks down to a point of concentrated essence. The separate to nothing at all. Eventually, you will have all the oil and
heavy-syrup result was a glace de viande. It was used for added flavor, lemon incorporated, and the bowl will hold a thick, smooth sauce the
and color, in other sauces and gravies. There are many such commercial consistency of heavy mayonnaise. It should be thick enough to stand
meat concentrates now available in jars and cans, and there are many in peaks, or almost so. Now, (still whipping steadily), add the spoon-
so-called "bases" (for soups and gravies) that are usually granular; [ul or just a little more of the madly boiling water. Whip it in with a
these are seldom worth buying. The compact kitchen cook might hap- few licks, and you've got it made. (Pause to rest arm and have a beer.)
pily do well, however, to have a small jar of one of the better concen- If you beat too long at this point the sauce will break (separate) for
trated ones on hand.
sure, and this would mean you'd have to start all over again. In this
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE For some reason, this seems to be "the case, you either say "to hell with it" or you do try to put it together
Most" in sauces. It's a hot sauce of the consistency of mayonnaise made again.
of egg yokes, clarified butter> and lemon juice. It is tart and tasty on . This can sometimes be done by starting with a fresh egg yolk.
vegetables, and on many made meat dishes it is used with many fish (Some cooks start again with one fresh egg yolk, and a freshly hard
and seafood specialties. Also, it's quite expensive to prepare, and is cooked-8 minute-egg yolk, put through a sieve, then mixed with the
very, very tricky. Sometimes it does, and sometimes it don't! But, ya fresh yolk). Put this new egg into a clean basin or bowl or the hot
wanna make a coupla cups Hollandaise-have ready: water, and start whipping steadily again while dripping the broken
or separated sauce slowly into the new egg, whipping steadily 'til it's
~ cup strained fresh lemon juice all incorporated. This will usually do it, and you'll have a nice tangy,
4 to 6 egg yolks (absolutely no white . .) rich bowl of thick Hollandaise. Leave the sauce in the metal bowl; set
1~lbs. butter (or a superior brand oleomargarine) clarified to
0
it 'over the stove, or even in a 120 oven (no hotter); you may cover
make about 2 cuns oil. it with a single piece of waxed paper. When ready to serve the sauce,
~ tsp. salt . dl8h it out with a wooden spoon; for some reason, a metal spoon seems
~ tsp. dry mustard to make it break.
1-2 Tbs. madly boiling water Hollandaise is a lot of trouble, but it is marvey on some fish dishes,
on asparagus, broccoli, and things like that. But, maybe it's too much
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trouble, or too expensive. Ya wanna fake it? You'd be amazed at the
restaurants and good places that do. There are many ways of making a (There seems to be some kind of happy idea in that last bit some-
reasonable facsimile; this is the easiest: where. A girl can only tryl)
1 cup salad dressing (in bottle, NOT mayonnaise but, MOUSSELINE SAUCE This is simply a lighter Hollandaise; or a
mayonnaise "type") cold or cool Hollandaise into which considerable stiff whipped cream
2 Tbs. lemon juice is beaten. Obviously, this sauce must be used at once; it is often used
2 Tbs. clarified butter as a glaze over items to go under a broiler for a quick browning. (Some
1 drop yellow food color (called Egg Shade) say there's nothing like itl) A very rich Mornay Sauce to which
whipped cream is similarly added is also sometimes called a Mousseline
Warm-but do not melt-the salad dressing in a bowl over hot Sauce. So now you know!
water. Gradually stir in the clarified butter, 'til it's all incorporated.
Quickly whip in the lemon juice and the drop of color. This looks, AVGOLEMONO (Greek Egg-Lemon Sauce). This is a real simple
and tastes like Hollandaise; costs about )~as much; is much easier sauce, and seems to be a quick Greek version of what those French
to make. Use this at once; if it is well done, only an expert can make so much hard work out of. Anyway, this is the national sauce
detect it from the true Hollandaise, and you as sure as hell aren't of Greece, and can be used on almost any dish. In fact, in a thin ver-
about to tell anyone! sion made with good rich fish or chicken stock, it's a dandy soup. Oh!
those clever Greeks ...
BEARNAISE SAUCE This is also one of these butter-egg emulsion There are various ways of doing this. The trick please, ladies, is not
sauces. It is not quite as bright a yellow as Hollandaise, not quite as to allow it to boil, as then the sauce will separate and curdle. We often
lemony, and has a distinct flavor of vinegar, spice, and tarragon. make this in a' heavy skillet and other times in a small heavy-bottomed
We know, Jacqueline, all this sauce and gravy bit is a bore when pan. Y'need:
you and I both know that there is just one tasty-type gravy that should 3 egg yolks 4-5 Tbs. fresh strained lemon juice
come with the meat! But let's make some Bearnaise, the hard way. 1 egg 1cup (or less) of hot, rich stock
!j cup cider-vinegar 6 egg yolks 1 rounded tsp. butter OR-% cup hot water plus 1 Tbs. MSG
!~tsp. coarse black pepper n~lb. butter, clarified Melt butter slowly in pan; do not burn or cook. Beat egg yolks,
1 Tbs. minced onion J~tsp. salt the egg, and lemon juice together. Stir well into butter, and AT
!j tsp. crumbled dried tarragon 1-2 Tbs. boiling water ONCE start dripping in and beating steadily the hot stock. If
leaves !j tsp. fine-minc{}d tarragon eggs are allowed to cook in the butter, you've just got a mess of
4 Tbs. fresh lemon juice leaves, 01' fine crumbled scrambled eggs (lemon flavored). Properly made, this is a very
dried leaves soupy scrambled eggs (lemon flavored). Properly made, this is a
Put vinegar, onion, pepper, ~ tsp. tarragon into small pot; bring very quick and easy sauce to prepare; it may take a little practice.
to boil; reduce by )~to no more than 4 Tbs. of strained vinegar. (What doesn't]")
This should take about 15 minutes of cooking over brisk heat. There are other butter-egg emulsions, which our kitchenette cook
Save the strained vinegar; discard the spices. Referring to Hollan- needn't even think about; the above standard French, Greek, and
daise Sauce above, beat this vinegar in with the egg yolks, add drug-store-soda-fountain styles are all he teally needs to know in this
salt. Then proceed as with Hollandaise, dripping in alternately line.
the clarified butter-oil and the lemon juice, whipping steadily
all the while. Soon it becomes very thick; quickly stir in the bits HORSERADISH SAUCE This is a really jazzy bit that fits in with
of minced tarragon (the second )~tsp.) and then the boiling water several kinds of meat, fish, some vegetables, and could possibly be
to set the sauce. ingeniously worked into other sauces. Most often a hot horseradish
If in process, this sauce breaks or separates, (which any of sauce is served with boiled beef, boiled spareribs or shortribs or with
these damned butter-egg sauces are very liable to do), try first tongue or heart. And very often a cold horseradish sauce ~oes with
aid as recommended for Hollandaise. This may bring it up again. a thick, juicy cut of roast Prime Ribs of Beef. Hot or cold, it s easy to
make.
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 For the hot sauce you simply mix prepared horseradish with.soma
cream sauce. But first you'd better know that there's horseradish-and an equal amount of heavy Sherry is stirred in. A very little Port may
horseradish. Offhand, we have about four kinds in mind: (1) Fresh be added to give color and sweetness, though many cooks simply add
ground; this is sometimes found in very large market centers', ceca- a drop or two of red color. The sauce should be heated through, but
sionally in health-food stores. (2) Plain bottled horseradish with -vine- never brought to a boil, as this would evaporate the best of the wine's
gar in it as a preservative. This may be old and Hat. (3) jewish-style, flavor. Sometimes just called a Wine Sauce, more often this tasty
which has beets ground with it, is a ruby red, and is very tasty. (4) De- mixture is !llenu-listed as Madeira Sauce. Well, so many things-these
hydrated horseradish. This is dried and powdered; it could be used as days-aren t exactly what they are said to be. We know a character
a so-called Havor accent, but-oh, let's forget it! Fresh ground is, of ~~~! '
course, best of all, and it is very, very strong. It is not easy to find a MEAT SAUCE (See Chapter 4)
place to get this, but it is well worth the trouble to locate it. Regular
bottled horseradish is most practical to use for a sauce after the liquid MEXICAN SAUCE A regular Spanish Sauce, to which some chili
has been drained from it. If the bottled horseradish on the grocer's powder is added, is sometimes known as a Mexican Sauce. There is
shelf is slightly brown, or even off-white, pass it by. Freshly bottled a true Salsa Mexicana used extensively in that country; however, it is
horseradish is pure white, and after awhile it turns color. a long and laborious process of reducing various chiles (peppers) to
To make a hot Horseradish Sauce, add drained horseradish to a a sauce-like consistency, and then flavoring it suitably. Even Mexican
rich white cream sauce. A drop or two-no more-of fresh lemon juice people in this country seldom do it the old and hard way. (For sauce,
will point up the Havor; a very little finely minced parsley will make you understand.) This sauce-or something like it-may be bought in
it pretty. Use 2 cups medium thick white sauce, 4 Tbs. drained horse- a Mexican grocery, will possibly be called a Salsa Colorado or Red
radish, 2 drops lemon juice, 1 scant tsp. minced parsley. This will be Sauce. A green Mexican sauce called a Salsa Verde, has nothing to do
dandy on bland meats, when served hot. with green Mexicans- ( called mojados along the wadeable border)-
For a wonderful garnish to serve with Roast Prime Ribs, try a but is rather a chili sauce made of green chilis (also celery, onions,
COLD HORSERADISH CREAM. Mix 4 Tbs. (drained or fresh if green onions, chopped spinach, herbs, etc.). This is made very much
possible) horseradish into 1 cup of very thick, rich, cold white cream as we make a Spanish Sauce, only it is kept green. A drop or two of
sauce. Whip one cup of heavy cream to very stiff; fold it into the cream green color added to the finished sauce will complete this illusion.
and horseradish, so that the whole is light, but very stiff. Serve in small Many South-of-the-Border dishes feature a Salsa Verde, which is
paper cups or in side-dishes. Some cooks use a mixture of the horse- simply a delicious green vegetable sauce; very fine on fish dishes.
radish, sour cream, whipped cream. Take your choice or have an
idea of your own, but this is real grand with this beef roast, if you MORNAY SAUCE This is an easy sauce to prepare, and it is one of
think a really good, juicy piece of tender meat needs anything the most used. A Mornay Sauce is literally a rich white sauce with
with it! added cheese. Many variations are possible, according to standards
or your own fancy. Let's make some. We'll need several small sauce-
MADEIRA SAUCE The name, at least, is an old friend; you may pans or pots, and a good double-boiler. Also:
see Madeira sauce on the menu of many fancy joints, even in some 3 Tbs. butter or other fat 3 cups warmed light cream
lesser ones. Well, dear, it's almost a figure of speech. Genuine Madeira 3 to 4 Tbs. flour J~cup grated Parmesan Cheese
wine is rarely seen or used in any commercial kitchen; it is somewhat J~tsp, salt J~cup grated Swiss Cheese
hard to find; is imported and always quite expensive ($6.00 or $7.00 1 tsp. MSG J~cup clarified butter
a fifth), and it's not too hard to imitate-particularly to a diner who J~tsp. white pepper
has never tasted the original. Madeira is somewhat similar to a heavy
Sherry, or olorsa, it is sort of a reddish brown, and is often a little Melt butter in small heavy-bottomed pot; stir in Hour; add salt,
sweet. Hence, what is usually served as Madeira Sauce is most often MSG, pepper. Cook to a dry, crumbly paste without browning
a dark, rich, reddish brown gravy, with just sufficient wine in it to be for 5 minutes. Gradually whip in light cream. This should make-
distinguished as such by color and aroma. as soon as all the lumps are out-a rich, fairly heavy white cream
Simply made, some heavy, rich, brown gravy is heated; not quite sauce. To be sure there are no lumps, put sauce through a strainer
into the top of a double boiler. Half fill lower part of boiler with
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 hot water; put on heat to keep this water just under boiling point. chops, etc. Nothing easier! Minced onions are fried in a little butter
Stir mixed cheeses into sauce; stirring occasionally until cheese and/or oil until soft; added to a rich brown gravy, you have an onion
is melted into sauce. Gradually stir in clarified butter. This should sauce of a sort. Similarly, the sauteed onions may be added to a white
be assimilated by the sauce and should not rise to surface. This is sauce to make a different kind of an onion sauce. Many Hungarian and
your completed Mornay Sauce. If too thick, particularly after Austrian dishes seem to start with an onion sauce, which is called a
standing for a time, it may be thinned by carefully stirring in a soubise. This consists of minced onions sauteed until soft, then put
little more warmed cream. through a sieve. This is the traditional start of goulash, paprika dishes,
many others of that ilk. (Say, have you seen a good 'ilk' lately?) So,
If a sort of fluffy Mornay is desired, you can whip a cup of very when a recipe says (and they quite often do) "make a soubise,' you
thick whipping cream to very stiff; fold this into the sauce-with a few cook some onions to soft, and sieve' em.
added grains of salt-just before using the sauce. This is often called a If cooked onions are added to a brown gravy, with a little wine,
Mousseline Sauce, though it is not a true one. These sauces are much a pinch of mustard, a dash of vinegar, you have a SAUCE ROBERT.
used to cover or mask items that will go under the broiler for a moment INTERMISSION-This might be a very good place to have a break,
of quick browning. The rich sauce will glaze swiftly to a nice light time to go out and cruise the lobby, etc. Nothing? Oh, hell! Maybe
brown, and bubble slightly. It will do this quickly. it's just your night for culture, so let's take up with these sad and
MUSHROOM SAUCE While there are undoubtedly more proper sometimes sexy sauces again. Ready?
methods of preparing a correct mushroom sauce, we just pop some PIQUANT SAUCE This is a light brown gravy into which have been
mushrooms into some brown gravy and that's usually it. Of course, flung some cracked, whole, black pepper, some fine-chopped, hard-
if we are using fresh mushrooms we feel that we have to cook the cooked eggwhite, chopped pickle, pimiento, and a little red wine
little funguses (fungi?) a bit first. Whole small mushroom caps may vinegar. Capers, crumbled herbs, etc. may be added if you like. A
be used, or even canned stems and pieces, but we think sliced fresh good shot of demi-glaze, or meat essence will retain the basic meat
mushrooms are best. We use about a J~ lb. of fresh mushrooms, wash- flavor of the gravy. This is a fine sauce on boiled tongue or baked
ing them and then slicing as desired. We put a large tablespoon of tongue. (What you wanna put on your tongue is, of course, your own
butter and a small tsp. of oil, into a small frying ran. We quickly add business, we hasten to add.) Piquant is a sort of generalized name for
a small clove of garlic, minced fine, a couple a small green onions, any sauce made up in this manner. A Lorenzo sauce would be very
minced fine, then the mushrooms, sliced. We shake 'em all up together, similar, except that it would have some added clarified butter; a little
cover the pan, and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Our next less brown gravy.
step is optional, but we feel it makes the sauce. Uncovered, and with
the heat turned up to almost high, we pour in about an ounce of POIVRADE SAUCE, A poivrade means peppered, you can get the
brandy. This will flame. When the flames die, we pour in 2 cups of rich, idea here very easily. Usually this is a rich brown sauce (gravy) that is
heavy brown gravy. We stir this all together, now over medium heat, slightly thinned with tomato juice Or puree and is brought to a near
until the sauce is heated through. We may stir in a final tsp. of very boil with quite a lot of crushed, black peppers in it. Strained, it is
finely minced parsley but only if we are feeling unusually mad, gay, slightly tomato red, distinctly tasting of the peppers, but with a definite
and uninhibited. This gives about 3 cups of a rich brown Mushroom meat flavor in there somewhere. Or, to some rich Spanish Sauce add
Sauce, and that's what we started out to make. some meat glaze or very concentrated brown gravy and a handful of
MUSTARD SAUCE This is sometimes used for bland meats such as crushed black pepper. Thin with a little stock, simmer 15 minutes and
boiled beef and so on. Dry mustard, a drop or so of vinegar, some strain for the same result.
cayenne pepper (or liquid Tabasco), a little extra salt, are added to (If this casual-type recipe doesn't give you the idea, maybe you've
a rich basic white sauce. A drop of yellow color (egg shade) is often got the wrong hobby. Have you ever considered parakeets?)
added to make the sauce more yellow- (mustard color). The mustard PORT WINE SAUCE This is real jazzy with baked ham, particularly
flavor should be sharp and pronounced; do not cook sauce over long if the ham has been basted with port (or other wine) during the bak-
heat after dry mustard is added, as it may make the sauce bitter. ing. In this case, the gook from the bottom of the roast pan, with excess
ONION SAUCE Recipes very often call for an onion sauce for pork grease removed, would go into the sauce. Without this flavor booster,

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 and starting from scratch, you'd take a couple of cups or a can, of good used. About one quarter of the liquid may be very concentrated chick-
brown gravy, and add a couple tablespoons of B.V. or Bovril or one en stock, for added richness and flavor.
of those meat glazes; (anything to make the basic gravy a little meatier,
and there's nothing new about this idea.) Heat the gravy slowly; when TOMATO SAUCE Maybe you'd just like a plain but rich and
just bubbly, pour in an equal amount of red Port Wine which has been tasty tomato sauce, for that fish, or for a veal cutlet, or something.
lightly warmed (at least, not just out of the 'fridge, where Port Wine Nothing could be easier! (What? No, Bessie, you can't heat up a bottle
doesn't ever belong). Stir this gravy-wine together until the sauce is of catsup!) Catsup is very seldom used in any cookery, as the preserva-
again quite hot. Don't boil!!! Cover the pot or pan to retain flavor and tives in it give out with a peculiar reaction when cooked. Of course, if
aroma. Stir in a drop or so of red color to make the sauce look "winier." you are in a real hurry, open a can of Tomato Soup. Do not dilute it;
If to be held for any time, put in top of double boiler, and keep warm just heat it as it comes from the can and you'll have a very fine, smooth,
over hot water until used. Just before serving, the sauce may be brought flavorful Tomato Sauce. We always add a bit more pepper and get
back to hot over brisk flame, but must then be used at once. There's on with this. In a small heavy-bottomed pot, melt 1 Tbs. butter (or
your dandy Port Wine Sauce. Long may it wave! oleo, shortening, K.Y., or whatever). Stir in 1 Tbs. flour. Gradually
You can also cover a cupful of raisins with hot water for an hour work in half a Clip of warm chicken stock or broth, or dissolve 2 chicken
or so before sauce-time, by which point they should be plump. Drain bouillon cubes in half a cup of boiling water. This will make a pretty
off the water and add the raisins to a Port Wine sauce. This is also thick mess in the pot. Keep it over low heat, then pour in one or two
an excellent sauce for ham, and (s'help us) it is usually called RAISIN of those little cans of tomato sauce that are advertised almost every-
SAUCE. where, (the 3 for a quarter kind). Stir this all together. Add about half
of a medium onion, chopped, and a piece of garlic, minced-if you
POULETTE SAUCE When you get right down to it, (happy have it. Season this to taste with salt, pepper, sugar, a pinch of cloves,
idea), a paulette sauce is just a rich, egg-thickened cream sauce, with etc., and let it simmer over low heat for about 15 minutes. Strain into
a little lemon juice stirred in there at the end, and maybe a pinch or a serving bowl or another small pot. There you have it, a nice con-
so of finely minced parsley. Some cooks add sliced mushrooms; some sistency, inexpensive and quick. A good rich, red tomato sauce. Of
don't. You should maybe serve some chicken or turkey in this type course there are other ways to make this kind of thing. You got a better
cream sauce. It would then be a la Paulette. (Y'see, that's the way method-use it!
they get these crazy things on the fancy menus.) Or, maybe you'd
put cooked, sliced or diced potatoes into such a sauce, with mushrooms, VIN BLANC As practically any ninny knows, this means white
lemon juice, and a speck of parsley; 'ya got Potatoes Paulette. At least, wine. It's used on fish dishes, and is considered pretty swish by gour-
this is the modern American conception. Peculiarly, in a classical mets. Easiest way to make it would be to make a white raux of 1 Tbs.
French tradition of another year, this standard sauce 'was made the of shortening or butter, with 1 Tbs. Hour, Cook together over a low
hard way with some herbs reduced, then strained out; added to make heat without browning for at least 5 minutes. Work in half a cup of
a flavorful roux, then the cream, egg yolk and finally the lemon was light cream; stir in half a tsp. MSG, but NO salt or peter. Then, thin
added. And it seems to pretty much all come out the same. Frankly, • down this rather thick sauce with warmed white wine. A haute sau-
while these saucy French-type items are very good, whether made ternes is very suitable, though almost any dry white wine will do the
traditionally or more modernly, they are not rough-trade-type dishes. trick.
If the sauce is to be used over poached or baked fish, by all means
PROVENCALE SAUCE This is a sort of Spanish-type sauce, poach or bake the fish in some of the wine; then use that wine in the
which almost always has red wine, garlic, fresh tomato, olives, often sauce. If this sauce is lumping, be sure you put it through a fine sieve
anchovy incorporated in it. In fact, starting with equal parts of red just before serving. Do not hold over high heat after wine is added
wine and rich brown gravy, we would make it just that way .. Or, see as its flavor will evaporate.
Chapt. 8 for Frog Legs Provencale.
All of the above fifty or so recipes and methods should make a
pretty fancy cook out of any amateur; it may also give some idea of
SUPREME SAUCE This is a very rich cream sauce made with what other gourmets are gassing about as. they describe tasty dishes
roux, rich cream, and is nearly always finished with egg yolk. The roux they have made and/or eaten.
will be mostly butter-flour; though some chicken or goose fat may be Before we finish up here with sauces and gravies, let's have a few
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 ,I
kind words for butters. Maybe you've seen on menus "lemon butter" low figure, whipped in a little color and stabilizer, and so were able
or "parsley butter?" Curious? Well, that's just what they are: butters to package it as an oleomargarine. They were selling real butter as
with various additions to flavor and color them. You melt some butter
a cheaper substitute! You can believe this story or not; actually, we
in a skillet, without browning it, and throw in whatever you have in like to believe it. It certainly is a fact that all oleos are not alike; -they
mind; swish it around a little, and pour it over the meat, or fish. (Come range in price from .lO/lb. to .49/lb. The cheaper ones are worth only
ladies, let's not get carried awayl )
their price; we like good oleo and we find that the moderately expensive
ALMOND BUTTER Or Amandine (that crazy French!). Very ones, those requiring refrigeration, are "just like the high-priced
lightly brown some slivered almonds in some butter in a skillet; try spread!"
not to brown the butter, just the nuts. Or better, brown same slivered FINES HERBES BUTTER (There's that sexy old French again!)
almonds in some butter ( and/or part oil). Drain this butter (and/or You crumble up some dried herb leaves in your hand; fling 'em into
oil) off and discard it. Heat over very low heat, some more butter some butter frothing in a pan. Reduce heat and cook for 2-3 minutes.
(about 1/8 lb. of butter). When just liquid, add the ready-browned A drop of cider (or white wine) vinegar added here will point up the
nuts, about a rounded Tablespoon to this much butter. Shake these herbs. And there you have an herb butter. Most often two, three, or
two together in the pan over very low heat for a couple minutes. Then, even more herbs are used as a mixture. Ordinarily, one would use
add one or two drops of almond extract. Pour buttered nuts and all about half a tsp. of herbs to 2-3 Tbs. of butter. We've found it always
over the meat or fish or vegetable. (It's sometimes hard to tell these very kitchen-handy to have a small jar of ready-mixed herbs on hand.
days!) There you have Almond Butter, or 'a la Amandine'.
We use 1 Tbs. oregano; 1 Tbs. (dried) parsley; 1 tsp. sweet basil;
LEMON BUTTER This too, is just what it says; fresh lemon 1 tsp. rosemary; J4 tsp. tarragon. Some mad girls and others who are
juice added to heated butter. If this is part of the butter in which the particularly fussy about what they eat demand fresh herbs. Okay!
meat, fish, or chicken has been cooked, and some minced parsley is You find 'em, you use 'em. We mix these whole dried leaves, and keep
added with the lemon juice, it is a Meuniere, or meuniere butter, or it them in tight-lidded glass jars; taking out what we need as we need
even is sometimes called a meuniere sauce. That's life for you! them, and crumbling that much to a coarse powder in the palm of the
hand. These fine herbs go well on some fish, egg dishes, vegetables, in
PARSLEY BUTTER is made by adding finely minced parsley to salads. Just use 'em as you feel like it, but don't overdo it.
pan butter. Often a drop or two of lemon juice is added to accent the Interesting herb butters may be made by simply using just one
flavor. Incidentally, unless otherwise noted, no salt or pepper is added herb in the hot butter; try some TARRAGON BUTTER over roast
to these butters. And again, the butter is never browned, except for chicken.
BUERRE NOIR (black butter), which some people like as a butter MINT BUTTER is like the other herb butters, though chopped
or sauce served over fried eggs, brains, stuff like that. In this case, ya' fresh mint is. most often used. Real good over broiled lamb.
just cook some butter over moderately high heat until it is quite dark
without being burnt. (This is a nice trick, too.) ANCHOVY BUTTER is a real fishy, fish-pepper-upper. Use mashed
Butter is used for these butter sauces. Fresh (unsalted) butter can or minced anchovy filets (the flat ones), or even use tubed or jarred
be used, but will seem flat. Most oleomargarines will not be satisfac- anchovy paste added to the hot butter in the pan. As anchovy products
tory, particularly the inexpensive ones; however some of the better vary considerably in saltiness, use your own judgment. Anchovy butter
oleos (not those alleged safflower items, nor corn oil oleos) seem to is particularly fine over a broiled fish steak.
work out all right. We use a moderately expensive oleo in place of CAPER BUTTER These spicy little vegetable buds make a
butter in every instance, and find it satisfactory.
piquant butter sauce. Chop a few, leave some whole; add to hot pan
While we are gassing about oleo, there is a sort of mad story that butter and cook over low heat for a few minutes. A droll or so of lemon
has gone around in some commercial kitchens and other food business-
helps.
es, for the past couple of years. About 5-6 years ago, much ado was
made in the press about the mounting mountains of surplus butter GARLIC BUTTER Minced fresh garlic, or finely sliced garlic,
being stored by the government. The story has it that certain margarine
or garlic put through a small garlic press, is added to hot pan butter.
processors bought up a lot of this surplus butter at some ridiculously
To serve, the garlic may be strained out of the butter; many gourmets
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like it left in. A garlic-butter-olive oil sauce is wonderful on fresh
cooked spaghetti or alla aglio or alla aglio can oleo. For this an equal
part of butter is heated with olive oil; the fresh minced garlic-and lots
of it-is added and allowed to get light brown without burning the
CHAPTER TEN
butter. Poured over a hot dish of pasta and mixed with lots of freshly
grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, perhaps a little chopped fresh Vegetables... Plain and Fancy
basil, this is a wonderful basic Italian dish, particularly fine for those
who do not care for the heavier tomato sauces.
Many men simply go ape over a juicy steak with garlic butter
poured over it; in fact most people do like garlic-though if asked
they'll usually say no. Don't ask us why! Artichokes Eggplant
Bercy Butter seems to be a standard as is meuniere, so put a half Asparagus stuffed - Moussaka
tsp. of minced parsley into a cup of white wine and over medium heat. Beans, Green, etc. fried
les haricots verts, Amandine Greens (spinach, etc.)
Reduce (let it cook) until there is only half as much. Let this almost
Italian Green Beans (Fagioli) Italian style
cool, then mix thoroughly with some slightly soft butter; then chill. Eggs Florentine
Wax Beans
This is usually rolled in a waxed paper, chilled to firm, then is cut off Fresh Limas Mushrooms
in half-dollar sized rounds to put on steaks, etc. This is a fine butter. Beans Hongroise steak garnish, etc.
Similar butters may be made-with a little thought-from lots of Beets Mushroom Pie
things: shrimp, lobster, caviar, chutney, mustard horseradish, spinach Harvard Okra
Orange Onions
(green butter), paprika (red butter), herring, shallots, tomato and boiled, etc.
Glazed
so on. Usually just enough for that meal is made as these butters are fried
Red Flannel Hash
usually served frothing hot; though, many=like the Bercy-take to Broccoli Parsnips
chilling and serving as suggested. Brussels Sprouts boiled
And surely that gives us the Butter bit; you must take it from there. Orange Sprouts glazed
Cabbage fried
Be assured that a simple butter sauce is always the mark of a good
plain boiled Peas
cook.
scalloped puree
A final word on sauces and gravies and butters: whatever one may braised Les Peteit Pols au Parisienne
read (or write) of all the hundreds of variations of sauces that are German or Bavarian Spiced Peppers
prepared to enhance an individual dish, one is forced to admit that - Rote Kohl Corned Beef Hash
the natural juice-or gravy-that comes out of the piece of meat or Kraut Squash (winter & summer)
- a la Alsacienne Tomatoes
fish is by far the most succulent dressing. scallaped
Carrots
We are sure you ladies, etc., will agree! with Curry broiled
Vichy fried
.:. baked or glazed Turnips (White & Yellaw)
Carrot Tzimmes Rutabagas
Cauliflower Yams and Sweet Potatoes
with Cheese Sauce Zuchinni
buttered Succotash
salad O'Brien
Polonaise Mexicorn
Celery Fritters
Amandine, .etc. scalloped
Corn pudding or custard
Cucumbers

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 TEN
~~~~O+O+~~~~~~~O+~O+~~~.~~~.~~~~~<~~~~~~~~~~~+~~~~~~~~

Here we all are again, fully recovered after that last saucy chapter
and this time we are gonna deal with some wild vegetables we have
known. Most (alleged) he-man types don't want vegetables; but some-
times ya get a guy who digs them, or maybe you're just putting on a
big feed and you feel you've simply got to have vegetables. Of course,
your psychiatrist will tell you that this is all due to the fact that you
were always intrigued with Uncle Willie's real tight pants ... or some
such thing . . . (Say, we know some of the damndest stories about
headshrinkers. It seems ... what was that? Oh, you've heard it!)
Welll If we could have fewer interruptions here, we would get on with
this vegetable bit.
First, the Word! Ladies, (and you others) vegetables are &ood for
you. That is aside from some crass mention of cucumbers! We II zoom
through our favored preparations of these standard items. Try 'em!
Hell, girl, "you might like it," as the un-gay character wrote on the
powder-room wall, (beneath some declined "invitations to the waltz").
Maybe even "Jim" can be coaxed to eat his spinach, or what have you.
But first we gotta gas a bit about the way you buy vegetables.
Today even good, canned vegetables are not as practical as are fresh
or Fresh-frozen. Of course, there are exceptions to this, (to almost
anything for that matter. Hi! you mad exceptionsl ) F'r instance,
canned tomatoes, canned beets, etc., are better for some purposes in
cans.

187
 Peculiarly, good quality brands of frozen-foods, are the best of the Hot melted butter, or lemon butter, may be poured over the aspar-
selected fresh vegetables; hence they are possibly better than some of agus; or a smooth and tart Hollandaise Sauce may be globbed on, or
the fresh stuff on the stands. In most cases, we (at Happy House) use use Egg-Lemon sauce (Chapt. 9), made a few minutes after the
frozen rather than fresh if there's a choice. Of course, some things asparagus is first drained.
(thank Gawd!) aren't packaged as yet.
Cold or leftover cooked asparagus, is fine in omelettes, salads, soups,
At Happy House, we have some very hard and strict cooking ideas; etc. A fine vegetable for you, recommended as kidney flush by many
one of these is that salt is a chemical bleach, and is frowned on by doctors. We also cook broccoli this same way.
modem dieticians. On the other hand, sugar is a known food and fuel;
it is also known to set both color and flavor. We realize that Mother, BEANS: GREEN, WAX, ITALIAN, FRESH LIMAS, Etc. We
Grandma, and even Great Uncle Mervin (he was a one!) all started believe that fresh-frozen beans are best in quality, are actually cheap-
any vegetable cookery with that pot of salted water. We don't; we put est, certainly easiest to prepare. Green, or string beans are commonest
a little sugar in the water and get bright, colorful, tasty vegetables. and least costly. We simply bring these to a boil in slightly sugared
Also, we don't overcook them as many, many cooks do. Say, there's a water; cook 5 to 6 minutes, drain, and serve. We don't bother to thaw
thought: maybe guys don't eat vegetables because they're often pretty 'em, just open the package and dump them into the hottish water.
unappetizing. Cook your vegetables in rainwater, if you like; but we We sometimes put plain butter on the beans, sometimes bacon-grease;
suggest you make a small test. Put four small pots on the stove; salt or lemon butter, or any other of the butters could be used. To fancy-
two, sugar two. Using some green vegetable like string beans, and a cook green beans, it is easy to stir in some diced, canned pimiento, a
bright one like carrots, put half of each in salted waters, half in sugared. little chopped, green onion, lightly sauted with some minced bacon
Boil the usual 10 minutes-not more! Drain. Now, which is purtiest? all this dumped into the beans, (including the fat in the pan). Makes
Tastes best? Okay! 'em sorta special. Salt and pepper-if needed-should be added to the
While vegetables may be cooked in almost any way; plain Ameri- vegetables after cooking and draining.
can-style boiled and buttered is least trouble, retains most of the vege- Green beans come with several names,
table's flavor and other qualities. Admittedly, some of the more lurid such as pole beans, Kentucky wonders,
preparations will make the vegetables more acceptable. Canned vege- Blue Lakes, and so on. These last are
tables are already cooked. They simply need dressing up after being especially good quality. Beans are pack-
just heated through their own liquid, then drained. We'll offer sev- aged-both frozen and canned-in sev-
eral preparations for canned vegetables here. eral styles; whole, cut, sliced or French-
ARTICHOKES Forget it! ed, and so on. Some fine frozen food
packagers are now offering green beans
ASPARAGUS For salads we sometimes use good quality canned with butter sauces, some with other
asparagus; for a vegetable we use fresh if obtainable cheaply; if not vegetables. Expensive hotels and res-
it's frozen. Using a square or oblong cake or pudding pan with 2-3 inch taurants often serve French (sliced)
sides, we line up the trimmed spears in the pan. (This is either fresh green beans with Almonds and butter,
or frozen asparagus. Fresh simply takes longer to cook.) We heat a or les haricots verts, Amandine. Whole,
pot of water, with a scant tsp. of sugar to a quart. We pour this over small Blue Lake beans, are the best of
the vegetables just to cover. Then we fold a light kitchen towel or cloth canned green beans, regardless of brand.
to just cover the vegetables in the pan with none of it hanging over (Then there was the gay old girl who
to catch fire. We put the pan over medium heat on the stove-top and had the beans brought to the table so
cook until the big end of the asparagus is tender to a fork. Holding she could "french" them herself!)
the cloth on with a spatula, we carefully drain off this cooking liquid, Little known by the average home
without disarranging the asparagus. This liquid is discarded because cook, but packaged by all better frozen
it's bitter. We pour a little plain hot water over the asparagus and vegetable pac k e r s are IT ALlAN
cloth. With the cloth removed, the lined-up spears are lifted out of G¥EN BEANS. These are a broad
the water with a slotted turner, onta a warmed plate. green bean, usually cut. Italian beans,
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fagioli, (wouldn't you know it!) have an altogether different flavor easily together. Should set over lowest heat for 10-15 minutes to
than ordinary green beans; they taste a little peppery, and are really heat through. If sauce is too thick, thin slightly with a little red
different and delicious. We use plain butter only, with these; guests
wine, or even water.
(male!) seem to like' em.
Another real jazzy recipe is ORANGE BEETS. Sliced small beets
WAX BEANS are a waxy sort of yellow, taste very like other green Of whole, very small beets are best for this, too. Drain beets, leaving
beans; we cook 'em the same way, and usually serve with some bacon a Tbs. or so of juice only. Heat the beets and juice over low heat. In
fat. a small skillet, melt 1 Tbs. butter or oleo over low heat. Add 3 Tbs.
FRESH LIMAS seem to come frozen best and are in several sizes: of orange marmalade to the butter; cover 'til all melted together. Pour
fresh green limas, baby green limas, Fordhook limas, etc. Plain butter butter-marmalade over beets, swishing them around 'til all pieces are
is dandy on these; we often crumble in a few herb leaves, such as covered. Serve at once.
basilica (sweet basil), or mint, or tarragon. We think pickled beets are an indispensible summer salad; they are
sometimes served as a vegetable as well. (See Chapt. 3. )
Known as GREEN BEANS HONGROISE, (on fancy menus) a
real speedy and very tasty vegetable dish can be put together if you GLAZED BEETS are attractive, easy to fix; use small whole beets,
just happen to have some Spanish Sauce on hand. To 2 good cups of drained. Butter a baking dish or casserole; put in beets. Dot heavily
the drained canned beans (not heated), add 1 cup Spanish Sauce. with butter, sprinkle with brown sugar, salt, pepper. Bake uncovered
Some minced onion and bacon can be quickly fried together and about 20-25 minutes, shaking pan occasionally so that 0
beets are all
tossed in with the fat. An extra touch of pepper, garlic, and a small coated with glaze. Oven for these should be about 360 ; serve directly
pinch of cloves are stirred in as well. When this is all thoroughly heated from baking dish. Pretty and tasty!
together, it is served out. Real good with most roast or fried meats. RED FLANNEL HASH This is a real native of New England, a
BEETS For some reason, versatile beets have never been overly fine utility dish that might even be considered a light meal. Also, it's
pOI,Jularas a vegetable. The initial preparation of fresh beets is messy; easy to make in a single heavy skillet; could even be done in one of
we ve never seen them frozen; but canned beets are a handsome, those electric pans. Use 4 parts of beets to 1 part potato, J~ part of
nutritive and inexpensive vegetable. Also, they come canned in many onion, and a reasonable amount of bacon, 4 cups, 1 cup, J~ cup, and 4
attractive styles: shredded (julienne), sliced, whole (both large and strips. Chop up bacon and onion; fry lightly in skillet; add well drained
small), in dice, or pickled for salads, etc. Their uses are just as wide- chopped cooked beets mixed with chopped cooked potato. Stir it all
spread, as they may be served as a garnish, as salad, pickled, glazed, together; add salt, pepper (lots of coarse-ground black pepper! ); some
spiced, and so on. Beets are certainly one of the most colorful of crusty old folks toss in a drop or two of vinegar; we add a little garlic
vegetables, with a distinct and pleasant flavor of their own. We like powder. Fry this all together for about 10 minutes. It won't brown;
pickled beets as a simple salad, and spiced or HARVARD BEETS as a just get it good and hot, and all red. Sort of tasty at that, Red Flannel
hot vegetable. To serve 2 or 3: Hash, an American original as they say.
2 cups sliced or small whole 1 Tbs. butter BRUSSELS SPROUTS Fresh brussels sprouts are selected; they
beets ~~cup vinegar should be small and all of about the same size. Best are tightly-balled
1 Tbs. sugar (may be brown) ~~tsp. cloves (ground) ones with few loose leaves. Outer leaves and a little of the base or
% tsp. salt, ~~tsp. pepper ~~tsp'Jarlic powder (dehyd.) stem, may be carefully trimmed away. The sprouts-fresh or frozen-
1 rounded tsp. cornstarch in 2 Tbs. col water are dumped into a pot of lightly sugared water, and cooked 'til just
fork tender. Of course the fresh will take a bit longer. (Don't they
Drain the canned beets, saving the juice in one pot; the beets,
with only a couple of spoonsful of the liquid in a 2nd pot. Add always?) The cooked vegetable is drained, buttered, seasoned as
vinegar to the liquid, put over medium heat. Add sugar, salt, desired, and served. Buttered sprouts may be kept hot as long as 30
cloves, garlic, pepper. Dissolve cornstarch in water; as seasoned minutes in a tightly covered pot in a warm place, but the vegetable
juice comes to a boil, whip cornstarch in. Lower heat slightly, should be completely hot through each piece when served.
stirring or whipping till juice clears. Add beets and butter, stirring ORANGE SPROUTS These tiny cabbages seem to be extra spe-

190 191
 cial with a touch of simple orange sauce. After draining the cooked which the bones have been removed. Put these browned chops on top
sprouts, seasoning and buttering them, we fling in a heaping Tbs. of of the cabbage-and bake as suggested, just covering the chops with
orange marmalade for each cup of the vegetable. (About 3 Tbs. to a the milk. This Pork and Cabbage makes a hearty casserole; most men
10-12 oz. package of frozen). Quickly covered, the pot is shaken up love it with lots of cold beer and promises of goodies to come ... (such
a bit to coat all the sprouts. Very different, but real tasty! as apple pie!)
CABBAGE Here is a real common, inexpensive, and available BRAISED CABBAGE Sometimes called hot slaw, this is a quick
vegetable, good in many ways. But-as with many other common, way to cook cabbage. Shred the leafy parts of white or green (some
inexpensive, available items (good in many ways!) cabbage too, has red, too, if you like) cabbage, discarding the heavy core and stem ends.
some faults. Principally, it smells. It will stink up a small apartment, Slice an onion, shred some celery and a green pepper moderately fine.
and the "flavor" lasts. Of course a good spray of a floral deodorant, Use a heavy pot or skillet that has a tight cover. Melt fat-(bacon or
some of that tired old incense, or even a recklessly spendthrift spray ham) -about I Tbs. to each cup of vegetables in pot or skillet; add
of your Chanel No.5, may bring the Passion Pit back to its sweet, mixed vegetables, salt, pepper, a little sugar. A small sprinkle of mixed
floral, sexy fragrance. herbs can go in if you like, or just a few crumbled leaves of oregano
Let's see: Plain Boiled Cabbage. Use firm heads of white or green; or basil. Add a few drops of vinegar; cover pot at once; put over
quarter, removing most of the hard core from each section. Cut each medium heat. Shake the covered pot occasionally, but don't remove
quarter again; carefully lay the eight pieces in a large-enough pot. cover for at least 20 minutes. You will find contents have cooked down
Over this pour hot water or light meat stock such as the liquid from to about half the volume you thought you had put in. (That's life,
cooking corned beef or tongue. If desired, add a little sugar (we do); dearie!) Serve at once, with possibly a little more bacon grease over.
salt will tend to turn the cabbage a sort of dirty disillusioned gray. Very tasty as a vegetable, inexpensive, easy to prepare. What the hell
Liquid should just cover the vegetable; put pot over moderate heat more do you want?
on stove. Cover cabbage and liquid with a light cloth or napkin; this GERMAN OR BAVARIAN (Spiced) CABBAGE
will absorb much of the aroma. Let it come to a slow boil; reduce heat
slightly; cook no more than 15-18 minutes. Cabbage should not be, ROTE KOHL This is very similar to braised cabbage; rote kohl
but often is overcooked. Lift out of the liquid with a skimmer or with is almost a standard accompaniment to German Pot Roasts, Sauer-
slotted spoons, draining well. Put onto service plate for immediate braten, etc. Only shredded red cabbage is used, with some sliced
service. A very little melted butter dribbled over will keep the cab- onion, grated tart apple, a little very finely minced (or pressed) garlic.
bage nice and glossy, and add somewhat to the good natural flavor. Bacon or pork fat goes into the pot; then the cabbage, onion, garlic,
grated apple, are tossed together in the fat. To 6-7 cups of the vege-
SCALLOPED CABBAGE Remove hard core from a firm cab- tables (which will serve 3-4), add I tsp. coarse-ground black pepper,
bage; chop the rest coarsely in inch-square pieces. Dump all this into 3 Tbs. brown sugar, I Tbs. salt; I tsp. MSG, 1~tsp. cloves. Stir or toss
a pot of boiling water, with no salt, a little sugar. Keep it at a boil for all together; pour in half a cup of red wine and one quarter of a cup
2 minutes; pour it all out into a large strainer or colander, allowing of vinegar; toss together. Cover tightly; . leave covered, over medium
cabbage to drain well. This blanching removes much of the strong heat for 20-30 minutes. Shake pot occasionally. When dished up, a
and possibly unpleasant flavor or odor. Grease or butter a casserole, little finely minced parsley or minced fresh mint makes a handsome
putting in abou~ H inch of the chopped cabbage. Dot with butter or garnish on top of the bright wine red, savory smelling, ROTE KOHL.
bacon fat; add a little flour, a few thin slices of onion, salt and pepper Gesundheit!
(sort of heavy with the pepper). Add another layer of cabbage, onions,
fat, seasonings, flour, then a third layer of cabbage. Pour in about 3 KRAUT This is one of those things some people like very much;
cups of rich milk just to cover the cabbage. Put into a preheated 3750 others just can't eat it! A few years ago, delicatessens and some large
oven; bake covered for 30 minutes; remove cover, bake 20 minutes or markets sold fresh sauerkraut from huge barrels; now it comes in glass
more, 'til top is nicely browned. Bits of diced bacon can be mixed in, jars or cans. Of course, Kraut is a brine-pickled cabbage; some dieti-
or partly cooked pork sausage, or even some of those sexy little cians maintain it is very healthful. Nothing is easier to prepare for
Vienna sausages. These, of course, would make almost a main-dish out table service; ya' simply open the can, dump the kraut and the juice
of the cabbage. Or go all the way. Brown 3 or 4 thick pork chops from into a pan, and heat it through. However, kraut varies in the strength

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 around it is better to split them lengthwise before cutting into slices,
of its brine; some is quite strong and salty, and some cooks drain away which in this case, will be half-rounds. Cover the carrots with water,
the can juice, and add plain water to heat it in. A little raw bacon, add a little sugar (no, no salt!) and cook for 10-20 minutes. Test them
mixed with some chopped onion, and added to the kraut (uncooked ) with a fork, but do not overcook. They will cook quicker if covered.
improves the flavor. Some people add caraway seeds or otherwise sea- Drain and serve, usually with just a little plain butter. This very
son the kraut lightly; possibly other herbs such as oregano, dill, carda- simple, very plain vegetable can be delicious. At Happy House (crazy
mon, etc. are used. Many cooks heat the kraut over a very low fire (and us) we like to lightly sprinkle the buttered carrots with Curry Powder;
in a heavy vessel) for as long as an hour. This cooks it together, and this is really tasty.
does improve the flavor. Kraut is fine with frankfurters, and almost If the carrots are sliced thinly, then cooked and drained, buttered
any sausage, which may simply be tossed into the pot on top of the generously, and with a little fresh lemon juice and some minced parsley
cabbage, then covered and heated as long as desired. A real one-pot tossed into them, you have the American version of Carrots Vichy.
meal, though a plain boiled potato and a jar of good strong mustard (It's a little different in France, sez me! )
will come in handy.
On the Continent, and particularly in Western Europe, a KRAUT BAKED OR GLAZED CARROTS These are easily prepared if
a la ALSACIENNE (style of Alsace) is pretty standard. To serve 4 the carrots are cut in short lengths (like 2 inches, and that s real short! );
to 6: then they are boiled, drained, put into a casserole or flat baking dish
with quite a lot of butter and brown sugar, and baked awhile 'til the
4-6 cups sauerkraut, drained 3-4 cups dry white wine (as: butter and sugar form a glaze. .
1 onion, sliced thin Sauternes, Reislings, etc.) Needless to say, a fine salad is made of grated raw carrots; they
1 potato (raw) peeled, grated J~ tsp. coarse black pepper may also be cooked to very tender and then made into a puree by
4 strips bacon, chopped J~ tsp, basil leaves straining into a bowl. This puree is seasoned, served with butter. Such
1 or 2 green cooking apples, 2 tsp. minced fresh parsley a puree may even be substituted for pumpkin to make a Carrot Pie.
grated Carrots are much used in cooking as a flavoring and coloring vege-
Using heavy pot or deep skillet, (the one with the tight lid), put table; in soups, stews, roasts, gravies, etc. Some rugged souls even like
in bacon over low to medium heat. Add kraut, onions, grate apple to snatch a cold fresh carrot from the 'fridge and just gnaw on it!
and potato directly into kraut; stir in at once to prevent discolora-
tion. Add basil, parsley, pepper, and if desired some celery and/or CARROT TZIMMES While there are many recipes-regional and
caraway seeds. Pour in white wine; cover; cook over very low family-for this, a simple and delicious version for 4 persons:
heat for 45-60 minutes, shaking pot occasionally.
2 Tbs. shortening (or chicken-fat; or bacon-fat) melted
This is famed Alsacienne Sauerkraut, and is very, very tasty, parti- 2 cups grated carrots J~ tsp, salt
cularly with sausages, boiled meats, spareribs, etc. It's easy, different, 1 green apple, peeled, grated 1heaping Tbs. honey
good for you, filling, inexpensive. ~~small onion, grated 4 Tbs. (more or less) water
CARROTS These are one of the most versatile of vegetables, may 1 medium to small potato, 1Tbs. fresh lemon juice
be eaten raw, partly-cooked, boiled, baked, glazed, stewed or mashed. peeled grated
For less esoteric purposes, we'll outline a few carrot preparations here. (Optional): J~ tsp, MSG; J~ tsp, white pepper; ~~tsp, minced parsley
Plain Boiled Carrots. If carrots are quite large they are inclined to be Melt fat in heavy saucepan (with cover); grate vegetables, mix
tough, though possibly full of flavor. (Ain't it ever so!) These should together. Add to fat, stir together; add seasonings. Pour over
be thinly peeled before cooking. Younger and more tender carrots are honey, water, lemon juice. Parsley may be mixed in and cooked,
easily cleaned by giving' em a quick going over with a metal sponge or sprinkled on top as vegetable is served. Cover, cook over slow
type pot cleaner. (This may sound silly, but it does wonders for thinly heat for 1~-2 hours. Shake pot or stir once or twice. Add little more
peeling some vegetables.) Very young and tender carrots are simply water if needed; keep heat low. Serve as a vegetable, with a piece
scrubbed with a kitchen brush under running water (Ie tapl ), they of butter on top. If stove space is limited, after first half hour
aren't peeled at all. Whichever and however, the carrots are sliced in covered pot may be cooked in 325° oven. Very, very tasty.
rounds a little less than a half-inch thick. If carrots are very large
195
194
 parsley. All mixed together, you have some greasy seasoned, browned
Carrots come in several styles in cans; also, some are fresh-frozen;
breadcrumbs. Some cooks add chopped hard-cooked egg to the polon-
we think best flavor, easiest preparations and cheapest are with fresh
carrots. naise. (That's what it is, dearie! Don't ask us whyl ) Goes real good on
some things like plain cooked cauliflower.
CAULIFLOWER This is a real jazzy vegetable, seldom-if ever- CELERY This is one of the basic vegetables, used in much of
canned, it is nearly always in the market fresh and frozen. Often how- cooking for flavor, texture. A lot of people like to chew on it raw. Well,
ever, freezing processes do not seem to maintain either the brilliant no accounting for tastes, fortunately. Celery is used in stews, meat pies,
natural white or the exotic texture of fresh cauliflower. We prefer to stuffings, in soups and gravies and salads. It's tasty and healthful; a very
buy' em fresh, and as fresh looking as is possible. (If you don't know simple way to serve it is to cut it up and lightly boil it to just tender;
a "fresh look" by this time, Gertrude, you're in the wrong class. This serve with plain butter, in cream sauce, or mixed with other vegetables.
seminar is hardly for amateurs!) You take this fresh number and trim Plain boiled celery is fine with any of the butters (Chapt. 9); Celery
(carefully) the leaves in which the flower nestles. Don't throw these Amandine is the customary serving of this vegetable on Continental
tender, young bits away. (Many a young, tender bit is sweet and suc- menus.
culent). Cook them right along with the rest of the flower, which It is best to buy big firm heads of raw celery; use what you need
should be cut into segments or little flowers. (Comrne 'se dit, 'en Fran- and wrap the rest in a section (several pages) of newspaper; put in
cais: les fleurettes). These leaves, along with the flowers and cut up 'fridge, it will keep crisp this way for weeks. Use the hearts for salad.
parts of the inner stem, will give half again as much of the delicious Again, DON'T overcook celery; it should still have a little of that 01'
vegetable, so why not? Of course, the cauliflower may be cooked crunch.
whole. Many cooks do this, then serve it with a rich, yellow, cream
poured over the whole thing. Very pretty on the table but slightly CORN seems to be a particularly American vegetable; and almost
messy to cut up and serve, and hell on the tablecloth. everyone likes it. Com, as almost every embryo cook must know, comes
A pot of water is brought to a boil; add a tsp. of sugar; squeeze fresh in the market seasonally; in several styles fresh frozen, and in
half a lemon into the pot. Some cooks add milk; we only add milk to cans. Fresh ears are best; they are simply shucked, hair removed, and
Water in which we hold certain hot vegetables if they are not to be the nice ears are put into boiling water (sugared) for no more than 6
served at once. We ngure it'll curdle if boiled. However, (that old minutes. Actually, it is just necessary to set the milk and content of
refrain) tests made by us at Happy House, have definitely proven that the kernels; excess cooking will make them tough. Not-so-fresh com
salt to cooking cauliflower will often turn the vegetable a dingy grey, is tough anyway, so be sure it is really fresh.
so no salt! It's always on the table ... Frozen com is usually the pick of the selected crops, and is pro-
Our usual word of advice in cooking vegetables: don't overcook. cessed at just the right moment. It often loses something in this process-
A little bit of crispness in the served cauliflower (and most other vege- ing that really fresh .corn does have.
tables) makes it finer eating and better tasting. In fact, partially cooked Almost all types of com come canned and in several styles; prin-
cauliflower, drained then chilled is marvey as a salad vegetable parti- cipally whole kernel and creamed style. There are both frozen and
cularly with a creamy French dressing. (Chapt. 3.) canned preparations of com mixed with other vegetables, sauces and/or
Now, with a pot of drained, just-cooked cauliflower ... whaddaya seasonings. For instance, com mixed with young lima beans, often in
do? You can just plain butter it or use almost any of the butters like a very light cream sauce, is called Succotash; this is a supposedly typi-
lemon butter, almond butter, caper butter, and so on (see Chapter 9). cal American original dish and well it could be. A scant half cup serv-
Or butter and add a sprinkle of some herb such as basil, mint, tarragon, ing has about 250 calories so . . .
etc. Or put a rich cream sauce over it, or a rich cheese sauce. Canned Canned com adapts to mixing with almost any kind of vegetable;
Cheddar Cheese Soup just as it comes from the can and heated is a it is also fine in stuffings, salads, puddings, fritters, muffins and so on.
wonderful rich cheese sauce! This last is very popular as a dressing Or, simply serve the stuff on or off the cob with plenty of butter, salt
for the cauliflower. Then, there's a Polonaise. You mince up a couple and pepper. Red and green peppers, diced and very lightly cooked
of strips of bacon; fry it in a skillet. Add, as it cooks, a couple of Tbs. (or blanched) are added to com kernels to make CORN SAUTE
of minced onion, a sprinkle of garlic, salt and pepper. Stir in a half cup O'BRIEN. With a little chili powder also thrown in you have MEXI-
or so of bread crumbs, after turning off heat. Add half a tsp. of minced CORN. In fact, you can even buy-it canned that way.

196 197
 If you have a handy deep-fryer, just a small range-top pot, CPRN Melt 2 Tbs. butter in skillet, stir in flour, salt, pepper, garlic, mus-
FRITTERS are easy to do, and men love 'em. Some experimentation tard. Slowly add warmed cream to make lumpless cream sauce.
will probably be needed to tell you how hot your grease should be, how Add onions, com, mix together; should be fairly juicy. Butter cas-
thick the batter, how long to cook. Here is a good batter for 6 or 7 frit- serole, transfer whole mixture to it; put crumbs on top, then rest
ters: of melted butter. Add more milk if not liquid enough. Or, mixture
I egg ~j cup flour may be left in skillet; extra milk added as needed; then crumbs
% cup (about) cream style corn % tsp. baking powder and butter. Bake in 350° oven for 40 minutes. Serve from con-
% cup (about) whole kernel corn good pinch nutmeg tainer; should still be fairly juicy. Good, too!
1 Tbs. melted butter J~tsp. salt
Beat egg; mix in com and butter. Sift flour, salt, nutmeg, baking CORN PUDDING or CUSTARD
powder together. Gradually beat into egg-mix. (A stiff batter.) Take 2 Tbs. butter or bacon-fat salt, pepper, nutmeg
out a spoonful (dessert spoon) at a time; drop into really hot fat (if J~ cup chopped onion 3 eggs
fat is too cool, fritter will only absorb fat). Just brown, turn, just J~ medium green pepper-chopped n~-2cups light cream
brown. Carefully skim out; drain on absorbent paper on a pan. Put in 2 cups kernel corn 1 Tbs. melted butter
350° oven for 5-6 minutes to complete cooking. As com varies in can 1 Tbs. flour
juices, more flour may be needed here; if mixture is impossibly stiff,
add few spoons milk or cream. Some cooks like a little sugar in these Melt butter or fat in skillet; lightly fry onion and pepper. Stir in
fritters. Batter should be almost stiff enough to hold shape as spooned com, flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg. Lightly beat eggs and cream
without spreading too much in grease. What may seem to be an easier together. Butter casserole; add com mix; pour egg-cream over it.
recipe: Should just cover vegetables. Set casserole in pan with 1 inch of
1 cup Bisquik-or other biscuit mix hot water; put into preheated 350° oven. Bake one hour; after 30
J~ to 1 cup whole kernel corn minutes pour Tbs. melted butter over pudding, and bake another
1 egg half hour. Take from oven, serve at once. Rich and tasty, full of
J~ cup J~ & J~ (light cream) flavor, and calories.

Mix all together to make stiff batter; cook as above.

CUCUMBERS As with several vegetables, cucumbers are seldom
eaten cooked in this country, though they are so served in many foreign
Com fritters, served with crisp bacon (and lots of it!) are a fine
meals. Let's just say they're pretty dandy in salads-and see Chapt. 3.
snack; with a little thought, everything can be done in one heavy
skillet. EGGPLANT This is another vegetable that has never been popu-
lar with American diners. It is not difficult to prepare, but as its recep-
SCALLOPED CORN is a fine treatment of this flavored vegetable; tion by a guest is questionable, we'll have very little to say here for
it can be a one-dish meal and it is a possible use for leftover com (if
or about it.
you can have that much leftover of something so good.) Scalloped
In Near Eastern countries, the eggplant is almost a staple vegetable;
com oan be sort of "loose," with lots of rich creamy juice, or if eggs
it is used in stews, is fried, baked, used in many casserole dishes; very
are used, it can be a semi-solid rich custard. And oooh! is it ever fatten-
often it is 'stuffed' with meat, herbs, seasonings and baked. This last
ing! (Yes, May! You stick to the cobs.) We'll offer a couple fine recipes
dish, incidentally, is delightful, and is usually called a MOUSSAKA.
here, each to serve four. The difference is pretty obvious, but either
In Italy and Spain the eggplant is usually fried, and in olive oil at that;
is delicious. Scalloped Com:
our less greasy adaption would be deep-fried slices. Some cooks first
1 cup kernel corn J~ tsp. dry mustard fry slices of eggplant, then use these as layers in casseroles, either with
1 cup creamed corn (if all kernel, 2 Tbs. butter meats or with other vegetables and sauces. As this is a rather bland
increase milk-cream) 2 Tbs. flour vegetable, spices and herbs compliment it naturally. No, not difficult,
J~cup chopped onion 2 cups light cream but perhaps too different. FRIED EGGPLANT is first sliced in rounds
salt, pepper (cayenne or white) ~ cup cracker crumbs which are then liberally salted and allowed to draw or set for an hour
J~ tsp. garlic powder 2 Tbs. melted butter or so to remove a natural bitterness. The slices are then brushed or

198 199
 wiped free of excess salt, are floured, and fried. Fat should be quite about )~each-are heated in a skillet. The greens are thrown in and
hot, otherwise the vegetable will absorb too much of the grease. Cut tossed about 'til all coated and heated through. This makes a bright,
like potatoes. The eggplant may also be French-fried. Some will like tasty vegetable; most men will eat vegetables prepared in this style,
this; many more won't. So why bother? that they might ignore otherwise. (See also Chapt. 11). Many Ameri-
GREENS At a glance, our cook will say, "Ohl You mean spinach, cans demand a touch of vinegar with any greens; at Happy House we
and like that?" Yes dear, that's what we do mean; Spinach, also Mustard like a squeeze of fresh lemon.
Greens, Turnip greens, Beet tops, Kale, Chard, Collards, Dandelions, Greens are the basis in innumerable mad dishes, for instance, almost
and so forth. Hell! Maybe if you just mowed the lawn you could cook all preparations a la Florentine. These will have a base of chopped or
that too. (Oh no! There's Rover!) Oh well! Fresh greens are extremely pureed spinach; as EGGS a la FLORENTINE. A shirring dish is but-
delicious, very filling, and they are very good for you without being tered, an inch of chopped fresh-cooked spinach goes in; 2 eggs are
fattening. What more can you ask? They are certainly easy to cook, opened on the greens and the whole thing is lightly baked until the
and some guys do like them. Pop eye fans, no doubt! eggs are just set. Taken out, a little spicy tomato sauce is poured
Spinach, and occasionally some other greens, do come frozen, and around the eggs on the spinach. The dish is served piping hot.
this can be a very practical way to buy them. However, there is a cer- One more thing about greens; prepare lots of them as they seem
tain freshness of flavor (also possible is a little sand) about truly fresh to cook down to almost nothing. One bunch will hardly serve two.
greens, that does seem to be missing in the package product. Inciden- Greens-they're good for you-and certainly non-fattening.
tally, unless fresh-packaged, most greens do have sand and dirt in
them; they must be thoroughly washed if you don't want your dentures MUSHROOMS Call them cepes, champignons, hongos, fungi,
all gritty. Fill a large sink or a very large pan or tub, with about 10 pfefferlinge, or whatever, mushrooms do add a true touch of elegance
inches of cold water. Cut the stem ends and /or the root ends, from the in any cooking, whether it is a simple spaghetti sauce, or a garnish
greens; discard these tough bits. Pick over the leaves individually, dis- for a gourmet-style Tournedos. They are good-looking, have and give
carding bruised, yellowed, tired bits. Drop the good parts into the a wonderful flavor, and are seldom cheap. Mushrooms are sold fresh
water. Some greens have tough stems all up the center; just tear the and in cans in several styles and sizes. They are also sold dried. Mush-
green part away from this stem. When all the selected green leaves or rooms alone are seldom found in frozen food packaging; but often
parts are in the water, sort of rub the leaves together with the hands, mixed with other vegetables. Dried mushrooms, which come from
at the top of the water. The sand and dirt will sink to the bottom, don't Italy, France, Hungary, and China, require soaking which hrings out
stir it up. Carefully skim the leaves from the surface; put them into a a tremendous flavor and a colored liquid that will handily color gravies.
colander or onto a towel. (Just look at what's left in that sink!) Drain Dried mushrooms, both white and brown may cost up to $6.00 to a
and wash the sink; then do it all a second time. This should be enough, pound, almost never less than $4.00. Well, that last takes care of dried
but if you have doubts (and who wants to eat dirt?) do it a third mushrooms, as far as we are concerned!
time. Now the fresh greens are ready to cook. Fill a very large pot with In cans, you usually have a choice of cepes (buttons or heads),
water; add a small handful of sugar. Bring to a boil. Tear the larger sliced mushrooms, or stems and pieces; this in order of their cost. Stems
leaves in half; put 'em all into the water over medium heat. When and pieces are fine for sauces and gravies, and be sure to use all the
again at a boil, no more than 5 minutes, skim the leaves out into a juice in the mushroom can. Lots of flavor and color there. Sliced mush-
colander. Let drain; put into a pot or serving dish if to be served at rooms are fine heated in butter and poured lavishly over steaks; using
once. Douse with butter, perhaps a touch of lemon juice. Don't they buttons for this may double cost but will be ever so much more elegant.
taste fresh and grand? Fresh mushrooms are usually much larger than canned; there is
Some cooks pour bacon grease over fresh-cooked greens, or add no particular season for these fungus growths, but occasionally a large
bits of cooked bacon. Chopped hard-cooked egg is often sprinkled over market will have too many of these very perishable vegetables on hand,
them. The greens may be chopped, pureed, or creamed. and will have a sale. (Well, that's what the sign says!) In this country,
mushrooms are mostly used as indicated above, but in many foreign
IT ALlAN STYLE also used for other fresh vegetables is very popu- lands they appear in another guise; very often they are stuffed and
lar with professional cooks. The cooked vegetable is thoroughly baked. This, my dears, is a little "chi-chi' (and a hell of a lot of trouble)
drained, a little butter, a little olive oil, and a little flavorful garlic oil- so we just won't bother. Some men like mushrooms, while others push
200 201
 them aside on the plate, for the cat. (The things that go into that ONIONS In the opinion of many cooks, the onion is the most
pussy! ) useful vegetable (excluding the potato) in all of cookery. By this time,
Fresh mushrooms are usually even the wariest reader here will realize that onions are used in salads,
washed lightly, put into water with roasts, sauces, gravies, stews, soups, and in almost every type of cooked
a squeeze of lemon, brought to a dish. Onions can also be nicely served by themselves, as a cooked
boil, then-after a couple minutes vegetable such as plain boiled onions. (For this, use the little ones,
-drained. After this blanching pro- best. bought canned, ready cooked.) They can also be creamed, baked,
cess, they may be kept some hours glazed, stuffed, fried, and so on.
before the final cooking. In any FRIED ONION Aside from those tasty deep-fried rings of which
basket of fresh mushrooms, possi- we'll speak later, fried onions are real man food; they are particularly
bly half will be of uniform size; suitable with steaks, chops, liver, cutlets, and other fried and broiled
these can have the stems cut off
meats. Principal fault with fried onions is that they are often served
even with the bottom of the crown- with an excess of grease. Let's do this little job step by step. It's easy.
making a fat, meaty button. Odd
Just before you put your meat on to fry or broil (or whateverl ), heat
. , or ragged or very large mushrooms
a large skillet or a heavy-bottomed saucepan; add a little oil, or bacon-
can be sliced, or chopped for gravies or in stuffings, etc. The prepared
fat, or shortening, no more than a Tablespoon, better less. When this
mushrooms, blanched and cut according to desired use are lightly fried
fat is completely liquid and warm-not necessarily hot-put in the sliced
in half butter-half oil, to a light brown; not over 5 minutes. They may
onions. These have been peeled and crosscut into thin slices. With a
then be served as desired, with or without this oil-butter. A little
fork, briskly stir the onions around until all are coated with a little of
sherry may be cooked with them, or a little brandy may be used. We
the fat. Season, if desired: salt, pepper, a good pinch of garlic powder,
add a fine recipe that we have originated (with many experiments)
a pinch of MSG, and cover the pan lightly. Put over low heat and leave
at Happy House. This we call Mushroom Pie. First: make a 7 or 8 inch
it alone for about 15 minutes or until it is time to dish up the meat.
0
pastry shell, and bake it off at 425 but only for about 7-8 minutes or
Then uncover; the onions will be tender and soft, but With no color.
until it just starts to get some color. Take at once from oven, and cool.
Toss in a small piece of butter and turn heat quite high. Toss onions
Clean, slice, blanch, and lightly fry (see above) Bi-2 cups of fresh
around over this and they will quickly brown with the butter. To
mushrooms. A touch of fresh garlic; a little chopped green onion, may
serve, lift onions out of the pan with a slotted spoon or skimmer, leav-
be added if the onions are briefly fried. Make about a cup of light
ing as much of the grease and juice as possible in the pan. Pile the
brown gravy:-one good way, and easy-is to use 1 can beef gravy
with half a can of condensed chicken broth. This makes a sauce of just onions onto the served meat and slip it to Jim. He'll love it.
the right consistency. Put mushrooms into pie shell; season lightly; Onions may be stuffed and baked; tasty but not too practical a
0
pour gravy over; shake down. Bake at 450 for about 5 minutes to heat dish, andsorta too much trouble for OUF compact cook in the compact
through and brown the crust. Cut into wedges and serve with any kitchen. As a matter of fact, for stews, sauces, etc., many smart cooks
now use-as directed-dehydrated sliced or chopped onions. This elimi-
meat dish, this is an interesting and delightful novelty.
nates storage, peeling, cutting, etc. Real easy, and no runny mascara,
OKRA This is the vegetable that is much esteemed in the South, so why not?
and some parts of the mid-west. Many people are really hot for it; to PARSNIPS According to ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians and
others it is=N'yahl Okra is a sort of pepper: it has a peppery taste; some other old-timers, parsnips are a mad aphrodisiac. (See Chapt. 1.)
because of its slightly thickening possibility, it is used in stews, gumbos,
and such. Stewed okra and tomatoes is a fairly standard preparation; 'I In other words, they are a potency-pepper-upper, or a~ golfers put it
so nicely, "They put more iron in your drive." Ya get the idea? No?
cuts of partly cooked okra can be breaded and fried (see Deep-Fried Hell, turn this book in for Little Women-you're reading the wrong
Vegetables, Chapt. 11). Okra is sometimes found fresh in large markets;
it is more often nicely packed fresh frozen; and also comes canned.
I material. Nevertheless, few of us virile, red-blooded American types
like parsnips, and they are good! Try just plain boiled parsnips, after
These last are sometimes whole small okra, sometimes cut okra. What lightly peeling or scraping, then slicing like carrots. Cooked to just
t'hell, try it! You might like it, and it isn't expensive. tender, drained, and with a glop of butter, then be-sprinkled with just
202 203
a very little ground nutmeg, they are truly swell! As with other root know. Like the old ~ag: "The Irish do it, but the Greeks invariably
vegetables, use just enough water to cover, add a pinch of sugar, don't get the credit for it!' That, of course, is something else again! First,
overcook. we'll admit there's a somewhat standard recipe called Peas Parisian
If the parsnips are cut in half lengthwise, then cooked as above, which calls for fresh peas to be cooked with butter, minced shallot,
these pieces may be glazed (see carrots) with butter and sugar and a green onion, shredded lettuce, etc. It's nice, too. Our dish:
touch of lemon juice. This can either be done in a skillet, on the stove,
or the pieces may be panned and finished in the oven. Serve with a LE PETIT POlS au PARISIENNE
small sprinkle or minced parsley or other fresh herb. 1 medium can very small 3 or 4 medium cloves fresh garlic,
Sliced, cooked parsnips may be fried just like potatoes; done in peas, drained minced very fine
bacon-fat, and with plenty of black pepper, these are really wonderful. ~&cube butter 2 oz. medium sherry wine
You know, many of you people who turn up your noses at parsnips
Melt the butter over medium heat; fry garlic a little, but don't
have actually never eaten any. That's about enough for parsnips,
brown; dump in drained peas, shake around in the butter. Add
regardless of their reputation for putting fun in your gun.
sherry, cover, and set in a just-warm place on stove to keep hot
Practically everyone knows that peas may be purchased fresh, while meat is cooking. This is just too much! No, girl, not too
canned, and dried. And, most practical pricewise and fuss-wise, we much garlic; the strong flavor sorta disappears. Cheap and easy,
think fresh-frozen are best. Cooking for either fresh or frozen peas is real different, and our own personal recipe!
about the same, except the truly fresh ones will take a little longer. PEPPERS These little numbers-and we refer specifically to green
But, it's so easy! Just drop the peas into a pot of hot water with a little peppers, or bell peppers-are just fine for stuffing and baking; they also
sugar in it. Let come to a boil; cook no more than 5-6 minutes after this; go well as a seasoning vegetable in stuffings, salads, stews, casseroles,
if tender (What? Hell, Maude, snatch one out and pinch it!) they're etc., and cooked with some meats. Added green peppers make a simply
done. If not to be served at once, drain and wash with cold water wonderful dish out of a hash of chopped cooked meat, with, of course,
until the peas are cold. Then they can be held for as long as a couple chopped onion and seasonings. Our favorite CORNED BEEF HASH
days, in the 'fridge. If you are gonna put the cooked peas right on has 3 cups chopped lean corned beef; one cup chopped cooked potato;
the table, just drain the cooking water away; put 'em in a serving dish, ~~cup chopped onion; J~ cup chopped green pepper (or more), salt,
and add a good glop of butter. Cold, cooked peas-oven leftovers-may lots of coarse-ground black pepper, and about J4 cup catsup all stirred
be nicely used in salads; or to serve again hot, simply drop them into together and heated through in a skillet with a little bacon-fat. Yummy!
some boiling water and after a minute or so, drain and serve. The pepper gives added flavor; same with hashes of any leftover meat
Peas are sometimes served in cream sauce; are often mixed with (who's kidding?), as beef, chicken, turkey, etc.
other fresh vegetables. Leaving cooked peas in cooking water for any Red peppers or pimientos are a similarly flavorful and colorful
length of time or overcooking them will cause the bright green color utility vegetable; these are much used as an accent in many dishes,
and flavor to fade away and you've got nothing! stews, creamed items, salads, etc.
An interesting served vegetable, and one often used in Europe, is Chili peppers (and this includes several varieties) add color and
PUREE of PEAS. The old-style method of preparing this is sort of like seasoning to many dishes and sauces. These are largely (though some-
mashing potatoes, except that the whole bit has to go through a strainer what laboriously) used in most Mexican dishes; we suggest you consult
to remove the husks. Sorta messy, so modem cooks simply dump a can a good Mexican cookbook.
of concentrated Pea Soup into a double boiler, adding no liquid (as
POTATOES (As there is so much to say about spuds, and as this
they would for soup), and heating it through. Spooned onto a plate in
chapter is already too damned long, we'll deal with these in the next
a nice pile, and with a piece of butter on top, you've got a really nice
chapter (Chapt. 11) along with other "weight lifters."
vegetable. It is starchy, so puree of peas could be substituted for the
eternal potatoes. Tricks to every trade we always say! SQUASH Here is another fine and inexpensive group of hardy
Now comes Happy House's own contrived, super-duper vegetable vegetables, that are not getting the attention they should. There are,
dish that everyone loves. We call it PARISIAN PEAS, though why probably, several dozen kinds of squash (to say nothing of many sizes
those Frenchies should get the credit for so many goodies we don't and shapes.) There are the hard winter squashes such as the Hubbard,

204 205
the Western Banana (a great big thing!) and some others; and in the can be similarly split; the cut sides dipped into seasoned crumbs. These
summer there are the little summer squashes, little crooknecks, acorn, are then fried, crumb side down, in a very little hot fat in a hot skillet.
table queens (!), patty-pan, and zuchinni to name but a few. The When the tomato half is just heated through and the crumbs are
hard-skinned squash are usually split and cut into serving pieces, browned, flip' em out with a pancake turner; lay them (browned side
0
greased, seasoned, and baked in a moderately hot 375 oven for about up!) with the meat on the service plate or plates. Easy, and good!
an hour. Or, the hard pulp may be dug out, boiled in a little water,
then drained, seasoned and mashed to a nice smooth puree. A little TURNIPS (White and Yellow) Here is another common or utility
butter or bacon-fat and a touch of nutmeg or cinnamon adds much vegetable which is seldom seen in haunts of le haute cuisine; however,
to the flavor of any of these yellow squash. The green, summer varieties the French, acknowledged leaders in the world of things to eat (and
may simply be cut up-cooked with their skins-and either served in ways to eat 'em) give much more attention to les navets blancs than
pieces with butter, or they may be sauced with tomato, onions, herbs, do we Americans. Frankly, as many of us in this country are becoming
etc. Squash is a good vegetable; not fattening, and usually quite cheap. diet conscious, we should pay more attention to this flavorful little
Some are found in frozen packages, though these are not always suc- number that has nice bulk, oodles of assorted vitamins, and very few
cessful; the zuchinni Italian style, with tomatoes and herb seasonings calories. Some cooks use turnips in stews; less often in salads where
are put up in cans by several companies. Fresh squash is, we think, they can be either raw or partially cooked. At Happy House we have
much better. The young green summer squash and the zuchinni are turnips on the table every few days; they're cheap, and we like 'em.
best if not overcooked. Cooled, these can also be worked into vegetable We peel the turnips; cut them in dice or chunks; put into lightly
salads. But alas, men don't seem to care overmuch for squash. . sugared water; cook 'til fork tender. Drain, and douse with butter (or
the low-priced spread), add a good dash of ground nutmeg, and they
TOMATOES Aside from its uses as a salad favorite, the tomato always seem to disappear fast. While turnips may be popularly pickled
is often passed by as a single cooked vegetable, and some tasty as well and preserved in Dogpatch by Mammy Yokum, there are many diners
as decorative eating is so overlooked. Of course, tomatoes are used in will not seem to know what the turnip is.
sauces and stews and soups, and things like that; but most often the We use the same general preparation (above) for yellow turnips
only effort to make tomatoes the vegetable dish of the meal is confined or Rutabagas as they are sometimes called. Some cooks boil these 'til
to (so-called) Scalloped Tomatoes, which are usually pretty terrible. quite done, then mash and whip as potatoes with added butter and
These are usually seasoned, canned tomatoes with added bread or seasonings. Tricky and secretive European chefs grate a little yellow
crackers; frankly, these often leave something to be desired. This is turnip into goulash for that old country flavor. A Continental trick
a really peculiar thing as tomatoes are almost the easiest, and prettiest (and who minds a trick that's both different and pleasing to your
of all vegetables to prepare, and they seem to go with almost anything taste! )
else.
YAMS and SWEET POTATOES While some may believe that
BROILED TOMATOES Simply split firm, ripe tomatoes; put a these two are the same, this is not so. While they may be of similar
little oil on the open spit sides; put the halves on a pan-cut side up- shape, the textures and flavors are entirely different. Yams are usually
and run' em under a broiler until well heated through. This is about 5 the cheaper of the two, are more plentiful in the market. This vegetable
minutes; the same result if tomatoes are done in a very hot (to 500 0
)
is seldom found fresh frozen. They are often canned, and yams, at least,
oven. These halves may be served plain as a vegetable or garnish, as are on the produce stands a good part of the year.
they come from broiler or oven, or to serve them extra tastily, put a We prefer the sweet potato, and believe that the simple prepara-
glop of sour cream on each broiled half, and sprinkle this with a little tions are best. We boil 'em to not quite done, peel them, then finish
dried dill, or with onion salt, or minced fresh herb, or well, something. them in the oven for a few minutes. Depending on the size, the average
(After 10 chapters, the patient reader here must know that a "glop" sweet potato is cooked about an hour, (in all) this way. To simply
is a good spoonful. Being tricky, we ain't sayin' what sized spoon! But, bake them, as we do baked potatoes, one should allow l~ hrs. The
on the other hand, how big is YOUR tomato?) cooked potato may simply be served with butter, or with pan drip-
Some cooks put crumbs on the open side of the tomato before pings, though some odd souls prefer to glaze them with sugar and
broiling; some add herbs, (tarragon and garlic are wonderful) and spices, even with oranges, marshmallows (god forbid!) and the like.
the like. Sort of along this same idea, tomatoes that are not quite ripe . Either of these may be mashed as potatoes, or they may be partly
206 207

~
cooked, cut into spears and french-fried. (Very good, too.) Leftover
cooked sweet potato and yams may be pan-fried or made into cakes
and fried. The raw potato, grown in a glass jar of water, will also make
a mad kitchen plant with vines all over the joint. CHAPTER ELEVEN
ZUCHINNI (See Squash)
Well, my dears! That (and a part of the next chapter) seems to Loose Ends ... including Potatoes
cover most of the vegetables. Remember, simple is the word, and don't
overcook 'em. We still say that if your method is to feed 'em first, feed and Weight Lifters
'em well; perhaps they'll do as much for you!

.)

Potatoes Potato Hints ...

Baked Deep-frying
boiled Deep-fried Vegetables
roast Standard Breading
iacket Standard Frying Batter
Delmonico Italian-fried Vegetables
Potato Salad Dried Vegetables
Mashed Rice
Scalloped Oriental-style
scalloped with Pork Chops Home-style
Fried potatoes Pilaf, etc.
Hash browned Risotto M ilanaise
German fried Arroz can Pallo
American fried Spanish Rice
Lyonnaise Jambalaya
Paysanne Saffron Rice
Japanese Beans (dried), etc.
Cottage fried Kasha
Potato Pancakes Pastas, etc.
Kartofel Pfankuchen Macaroni and Cheese
Latkes Odds and Ends
Kugel Quick Beef Stew
French Fried Potatoes Quick small Pizza

208
209
 ELEVEN
~<~.~~++~~+~+++++<~++++++++++++.~)++++~++++~+~)++++.)+<~.++

In this chapter we're gonna deal with a lot of things that just didn't
get mentioned earlier.
First, let's gas a bit about POTATOES, which are fine food and
about which there are some really crazy ideas. Of course, now we've
got all kinds of processed potatoes like "just add water." Whammo!
an' you've got deep fried Potato Chips'. Or something. Actually, this
isn't all so new; the Indians in Peru were processing' em four centuries
ago ...
According to Prescott, Peru's eminent historian, the most valuable
item Spain's marauding Conquistadores brought home was the lowly
potato. Eventually it was worth more than the complete output of
the mines of Potosi and more valuable as a crop in one year than the
fabled worth of the golden Inca Temple of the Sun! Yep! Plain or
spuds.
Peculiarly, in light of our modem ways with potatoes, a Spanish
captain found storehouses full of potatoes processed as a staple food.
He noted that they were first cured by frost, then sun-dried. In this
state the potato could be kept in vast quantities and for as long as
necessary; culture of the potato was highly developed, and many

211

-~
varieties were grown. starch. A medium-sized potato contains about 100 calories; 2 eggs
Sometimes about 1570 specimens of the potato were carried to have at least 125, 2 slices of bread 150. A medium sized baking
Spain, where people were little interested. From here they went to powder biscuit has well over 100 calories; a good apple, pear, orange,
Italy, as a curiosity, and in 1588 records show that a keeper of the etc., have as many. This calorie rating, of course, does not include the
Royal Botanical Gardens in Vienna started to cultivate the tubers. ~~lb. of butter, the sour cream, chopped bacon, rich gravy or frying
There are some gay stories that Raleigh and/or Drake, brought the fat that seem to crop up with served potatoes; these "accompaniments"
potato from Virginia to Ireland. 'T'ain't so; potatoes- were not grown could make the potato somewhat calorie-heavy.
in Virginia in their time. That bit about Raleigh is pure Irish blarney.
Raleigh, you may recall, was that Elizabethan character who wore POTATOES Extensive cookbooks and other culinary encyclo-
earrings, to say nothing of his embroidered and padded cod-piece. pedias list as many as 500 standard potato preparations; here we'll make
At least, this is what we gather from portraits in the British Museum. do with a score, best fitted to our compact kitchen. Easiest, and best
In any case, while Raleigh may have had his points, he didn't do any- from a male point of preference is a good BAKED POTATO. Idaho
thing with potatoes, no matter what your history book may say. His- Russets, (the dirty looking kind, not always available), are best for
torical research also tells us that Raleigh's contemporary, Drake, who this. Scrub' em with a brush, then oil or grease' em, with bacon grease;
is alleged to have cruised in San Francisco before anyone else, brought put the potatoes into a 3750 oven for about an hour, or a little more if
potatoes to Germany, but don't ask why. Very possibly, these two old they're large. After about half an hour, turn 'em over. We feel that
seadogs may have brought peanuts to Britain, where they were prompt- tinfoil-wrap is a lot of unnecessary jazz. When out of the overi, just
ly called ground-nuts. But potatoes, N'yetl split the potato, stick in some butter, salt and pepper, and eat it. Men
Next we note that this character back in Vienna was experimenting like theml
gayly with potatoes, and-(there must be some connection)-Marie
Antoinnette of France, late of Vienna, was going around to mad drags BOILED POTATOES As with almost all potato recipes, use 1
with potato blossoms in her hair. She is known to have said that pommes medium large or 2 medium small potatoes for each serving. Peel the
d'terre (earth apples) were the original fruit that tempted Adam. How potatoes thinly, cut in half if you like; put into water, and boil 'til tender
mad can a queen get? This one eventually lost her head in some sort to a fork. Salt? Hell, girl, put salt in the water if you like; we don't.
of a traffic accident, and that stopped the blossoms-in-hair bit. How- Drain, serve at once with butter; adding a touch of minced parsley
ever, as this gal was thought of as a strumpet by some British clergy, or a dash of paprika if you feel fancy, and so many of you do. These
Scotch ministers banned potatoes in the highlands whether the Lairds are especially good with boiled meats.
had any or not. So naturally poor folks began to raise the things.
As a matter of fact, poor people all over Europe were growing ROAST POTATOES Peel medium-small potatoes, put into roast
potatoes; they found that they were not only edible, ·but cheap and pan with roasting meats for last hour of roasting; turn once or twice to
filling. Some mittel-Europeans, fleeing from their homes for some brown on all sides. Serve with the cooked meat, etc.
reason or other, got to Ireland, and they brought along their potatoes. JACKET POTATOES Sometimes small, new potatoes are washed,
But some of these characters found that they didn't like those Irishers cooked, and served in their skins. Otherwise, any scrubbed potato
(that early Third Avenue crowd) and a bunch came from Ireland to boiled without peeling, is a jacket potato. Potatoes to be used in second
New Hampshire, in 1719. These people grew the first potatoes raised preparations, such as fried potatoes, or potato salad, are first cooked
in the United States; and this was 130 years after Raleigh and Drake this way. Drained when just tender, and peeled as soon as cooled
cruised the East Coast. The potato situation is much better now. (So enough to handle, the jacket potatoes are sliced or chopped or diced
is the cruising I) for further uses.
Then, in 1840 or so a blight got into the Irish and European pota-
toes, killing the crops. Hundreds of thousands of old country characters DELMONICO POTATOES To one large cupful of cooked (jacket)
dashed madly to this country just to get their 'taties (it says here). tatoes, sliced or in % inch dice, and 1 cup (or more) of medium cream
Enough history; currently, potatoes are considered a most fatten- auce (canned white sauce) and 2 heaping Tbs. of sliced prepared
ing food, simply because someone listed them as starchy foods. This ~ ( canned) mushrooms. Use salt, white pepper to taste; a little melted
( too) is wrong; the potato is almost 80% water, often less than 12% butter. Heat together; serve.

212 213

II
 POTATO SALAD
end of the cooking, they seem to dry up a bit on top, add a little more
2 cups sliced or diced cooked salt & pepper milk. Serve directly from the casserole at the table.
potato optional: 1 tsp. mustard; chop-
1 hardboiled egg-chopped ped green pepper, chopped Scalloped Potatoes with Pork Chops A real fine one dish meal is
2 green onions-chopped celery, pimiento, bacon, pars- made if you also brown two or three thick pork chops in a hot skillet
( optional) ley, chopped pickle or pickle before putting potatoes in oven. It is best to remove bones from the
4 Tbs. vinegar relish, !~tsp. celery seed, etc. chops, a little mustard may be added to them. When they are nicely
4 Tbs. salad dressing browned on both sides, simply lay them on top of the ready casserole
( mayonnaise-type) of scalloped potatoes. Add just a little more milk, to just cover the meat.
Bake as above (for scalloped potatoes). This dish should take just over
As with other recipes calling for cooked potato, leftover baked or an hour in the oven; and is very tasty-especially on a cold night. Serve
boiled potatoes may be used; we always bake a couple extra; then peel this with some plain, fresh, green vegetable such as Brussels Sprouts
these and put them away for salad or frying, or whatever comes to or some greens. Real marvey!.
mind. It's just as easy, May, to put in 4 as 2; you with that BIG oven!
FRIED POTATOES Let's do this ordinary bit real quick-like.
MASHED POTATO Most men like mashed potatoes; and they Cooked potatoes are cut, chopped, shredded, sliced, or diced; then
do seem to have a particular get-togetherness with most roasts, stews, fried in a skillet with hot fat, oil, shortening, etc. until nice and brown
some fried meats, etc. They usually also seem to need plenty of good, on one side. Flipped over they're browned on t'other side, then slid
rich, meaty gravy with them. Old-style preparation calls for boiling off onto a hot plate. If the potatoes are boiled or baked, and are shred-
the peeled spuds, draining when tender, then mashing or whipping ded or chopped fine, they're called HASHED BROWN. If the potatoes
to a smooth puree, with added cream or milk, salt and pepper, butter are sliced sorta thick, and cooked with plenty of pepper, a little salt,
( or at least, the low-priced spread). If you do 'em this way, remember they're GERMAN FRIED or AMERICAN FRIED. If some sliced
to warm the cream or milk; added cold to hot potatoes, it will make' em onion is lightly cooked in the skillet first, then sliced potatoes stirred
soggy. However, nowadays almost everyone uses the packaged instant in with seasoning, and the whole fried and tossed together, these are
potatoes, which eliminates all that hard hand job. But fol!ow the direc- LYONNAISE POTATOES. A little minced parsley can be added to
tions carefully. Also, the package that says "serves six" will actually these; if a little of some other herbs such as oregano, basil, rosemary,
barely serve three.
tarragon (very little of this last goes a long way), or even a good
SCALLOPED POTATOES This is an old favorite, is full of cal- sprinkle of those mixed Italian Herbs we put together some chapters
ories (fattening as hell! Watch it!) And it takes an hour or more to back; with salt and pepper, maybe even some minced fresh green
prepare, whether you do it with packaged, instant, scalloped potatoes onion, you have PAYSANNE POTATOES. We like cooked potatoes
or start with some uncooked (raw) potato. As there is no saving in sliced, some green onion chopped, some fresh ginger rooted shredded
time, it seems reasonable to do it the old-fashioned way (Hmm!), or minced, salt, coarse black pepper all fried together. As this style
which at least will cost only about half as much. Use one large peeled, comes to us from some Japanese-Hawaiians, we just call it JAPANESE
uncooked potato for each person to be served; and for each large potato POTATOES. And, it's real tasty! If sliced thin, raw potatoes are cooked
use about 1 Tbs. Hour, about 1 cup of milk, salt and pepper. Some in a skillet, these are COTTAGE FRIED. These are fine, too, but there
thinly sliced onion may be added. Oil or grease a casserole or baking are a couple of tricks to even this simple dish, and who wants to miss
dish; it should be at least 3 inches deep. Peel the potatoes, slice as an easy trick? The f~w potatoes are peeled and sliced quite thin; a little
thinly as possible; put about ~, of them into casserole; sprinkle with fat (we love bacon-fat for all potato frying) is heated to almost smok-
Hour and seasoning and some of the onion if used. Do the same with ing in the skillet (don't attempt to use a thin or tin frying pan, potatoes
a second and third layer. Fill dish with milk-just enough to cover will just bum). Lay potatoes in, usually in a rose petal or daisy design
potatoes. Cover the container; put it into a 375 oven. We suggest you
0 (Jeezl ), and put pan onto high heat. Dribble in more fat over the
have a large pan under these in the oven as they usually cook over, potatoes, then a little salt and pepper. Shake pan gently to prevent
and that's hard to clean. After half-hour, remove the lid; cook for an sticking, but not enough to disarrange the design. As new fat attains
other half-hour or until potatoes test done with a fork. If, towards the high heat, take pan from the stove-top and put the whole thing into
0
a 400 oven for about 8 to 10 minutes. Test with a fork to see when the
214
215
potatoes are cooked through; carefully (put a small plate or saucer pinch dehydrated garlic matzo meal in place of last two
over potatoes, holding them in place as you pour) pour off fat. Put 1 tsp. minced parsley items)
plate over potatoes; quickly and dexterously invert skillet and now 1 medium egg
you've got the fancy potatoes brown side up (they're tastiest position)
on the plate. Slip' em on the table. This bit does take a little practice, Beat egg. Grate onion; grate potato, stirring them at once into the
but what doesn't? They're real good, and pretty, too. egg to keep from darkening. Stir in onion parsley, and seasonings.
Stir in Hour and baking powder (or pancake mix and matzo meal) .
POT ATO PANCAKES These are a little work if done in proper This should make a fairly heavy batter for about 4 latkes. Put
German style. KARTOFEL PFANKUCHEN for 2; 4-6 cakes: spoonful into hot grease in pan, and spread it. Add another spoon-
2 large (or 3 medium) potatoes, peeled, grated or fine shred ful on top of this, spread. Cakes should be oval, about 4 inches
1 cup rich milk long, 2}~inches wide, and about a half inch thick, or (What the
1 egg, beaten hell!) whatever shape you like! Cook until well browned; care-
2 Tbs-ilour or fine cracker meal fully turn, and brown again. Take out of the grease, put in a pie-
salt, pepper, dash of nutmeg
0
pan or such and put into 375 oven for 10-15 minutes. A little
frying fat (and we still like bacon grease) trouble but very tasty.
Beat egg and milk together, grate potatoes right into this. Stir Another very fine potato dish is also a Middle-European-jewish
in Hour, seasoning; cover with damp cloth, let stand for half hour. adaption; is called a POTATO KUGEL (potato pudding):
If there is quite a lot of excess liquid at the top, pour a little off. Beat n~cuvs milk, with
(Save it, you may need it later.) Stirred up, this should be like a 1 or i eggs. Grate or shred into this: .
thick hotcake batter. Heat a large skillet; use about one quarter 2 large (or 3 medium) potatoes (raw), and also grate
inch of fat; heat almost to smoking. Use about 2 Tbs. or a large 1 small onion. Add:
work-spoon of the batter for each cake. You can make 3 or 4 at a }~tsp. Baking Powder; salt, pepper, pinch nutmeg
time in a 10" skillet. Spoon into fat, spread from center to sides of
each cake with back of spoon. These will take a time to cook; Pour into buttered or greased casserole or pan; bake in 325 to 0

remember, this is raw potato. If they seem to brown too fast, 350 for a little over an hour. When put into oven, liquid should
0

reduce heat; be sure to turn it up again when putting in next batch. cover the potatoes. Taken out, 'custard' should be a nice crusty
When edges are crinkly brown, turn each cake over and cook brown on top. Serve at once.
about same time on the other side. Take out of the fat with a
slotted pancake-turner; put cakes onto a paper towel on a pan or FRENCH FRIED POTATOES At last we seem to get to this old
plate, and put this into a 2500 oven to keep warm while frying the standby which is served so much in public eating places and so poorly.
next panful. Then, serve' em all hot at once. These are good with But let's make some at home; we say: buy the frozen ones that are
many meat dishes, particularly with pot-roast, such as Sauerbraten. already half cooked. Just put these in a pie pan, put a piece of butter
A little trouble, but a fine dish.
0
on 'em, put 'em into a 400 oven for 15-20 minutes, shaking 'em up
once or twice. Or, do it the hard way, if you have any kind of deep-fat
Jewish-style potato pancakes are called POTATO LATKES. These fryer. (See further in this chapter about "care and feeding of a fryer.")
are made a little larger and a little thicker than the German-style cakes First, peel and cut the potatoes (best use Grade A Bakers) into the
above. The trick here seems to be to cook the cakes through and still size and shape that you want them; some like 'em big, some like 'em
keep 'em light, not soggy. For 2 servings (4latkes): small (ain't it always so, dearie!) and then fry 'em. Of course, it's not
really all that simple. It is customary-and practical-to partially fry the
3 medium sized potatoes, 3 Tbs. very fine cracker meal or potato pieces first; then to hold these blanched potatoes until needed,
peeled, grated fine matzo meal when they are again dunked in even hotter fat to quickly brown and
1 small onion, grated }~tsp. Baking Powder heat through. Out of the first frying, they should be dumped (carefully
1 tsp. salt (We use 3 rounded Tbs. pre- so as no to break) onto paper towels or several thicknesses of news-
}~tsp. white pepper pared pancake mix plus 1 Tbs. paper. The fat for frying should always be clean, without specks and
216 217
without sediment in the bottom of the fryer. For the first frying, the pepper and butter will make mashed potatoes fluffier.
grease should be moderately hot; potatoes will sizzle when put into 5. Peel potatoes as thinly as possible; it is said the vitamins n'stuff
it. Incidentally, when cutting potatoes, put them at once into a pan like that are close under the skin.
f'l(). of cold or iced water, or they 6. A pinch of nutmeg will liven up creamed or scalloped spuds.
\) . will discolor. When you 7. Potatoes may be peeled long before they are to be used, IF
C; L,p, At. AJa want to fry them, and you they are kept covered with water until needed.
can do this a few at a time, 8. Grate raw potato-about 1 medium-sized to l~ lbs. of meat-s-
take out a handful and dry into meat loafs, hamburgers and hamburger steaks. Adds to quan-
'em on a towel. Putting wa- tity; keeps meat loaf moist; helps to cut it, etc.
ter (or very wet potatoes) 9. Russet potatoes (the dark and dirty ones) are better, all-
into hot fat, may make the around, than the cleaner white-skinned potatoes. Except, of
fat boil all over the place. course, the new and small rose potatoes which are cooked whole,
.... '-: ..... ".. Shake the potato pieces often in their skins.
DEEP FRYING Deep-fryers are usually of two kinds, one electric,
b '."".'."""''."'.'.'.'.".'
." '.., . .•.• "'.'
'.' •""'
• •••.•....
, '.
...around
try to dointoo
themany
basket (don't
at once). the other a simple, heavy pot with a suspended basket that is heated
. ~ '.. After awhile, when the y on a burner of the stove. Fat used may be any shortening, salad oil,
seem to be getting a light brown, take a piece out and pinch it. If it is or lard, or a mixture of any of these. There are some shortenings espe-
cooked through it will sort of mash between your fingers; at least, you'll cially made to withstand the intense heat of deep-frying; it is perhaps
be able to tell if it isn't cooked yet. When the pieces test cooked, then best to try one of these. The fryer, of whichever type, should be filled
dump them out onto papers and dry a new basketful, giving the a little over half full. If fat is overheated it will burn and smoke; if
fat a minute or so to get hot again. It is hard to say exactly how hot used when not hot enough, the item fried will simply absorb the not-
the fat should be; but certainly better too hot than too cool. Things hot-enough fat, and be unpleasantly greasy when eventually cooked.
put into grease that is not hot enough will simply absorb the fat and Fat in the fryer should be heated over low or medium heat, so as to
the resultant product will be greasy and unappetizing. heat completely through evenly; if not, fats on bottom and at sides
A brief word about sizes (potato!) for you connoisseurs: very fine- may smoke, while center of fat is still cool. This is a most common
cut strips are called straw potatoes, and these only needla single cook- misuse of deep-fryers. So heat it slowly. It is better to have the whole
ing. Somewhat larger, about pencil size, are what we/call shoestring pot of fat a little too hot and to see that the crust or breading of the
potatoes. This is the size usually served in restaurants, drive-ins, theater cooking food is just a light, golden brown. Then it is quickly taken out
lobbies, ball games, and similar spots. They are usually more grease of the fat, drained (on paper), put on a pie plate or other pan. Finish
than potato; often too long or too often reheated or are simply soggy cooking in a medium hot (375 0
) oven. Heavy pieces, such as chicken
and cold. A piece about the size of the little finger by about 5 inches legs, etc., would quickly brown on the outside while still being un-
long, is a proper french fry; Italian-fried are slightly larger and with cooked at the bone; these heavier pieces particularly, should be finished
uneven ends; Long Branch are a little bigger yet and so it goes. in the oven.
To close out this Potato bit let's suggest a few ideas that have Most vegetables, however, are usually partially cooked (by boiling)
always seemed good to us! before breading or otherwise preparing for the deep-fryer; the usual
Potato Hints: time in the fat sufficient to brown the coating will probably be sufficient
to finish cooking the vegetable-through, .
1. Prick baked potatoes a few times with a sharp fork before As bits of breading, and/or butter, will come off the item being
baking; this will let steam out, make a mealier potato. deep-fried, and will drop to the bottom of the pot, the frying fat should
2. Be sure to drain potatoes thoroughly that have been cooked be strained while still hot after all frying for the meal is done. While
to mash; even swish 'em around in the dry pot, over flame, for the fryer is empty it should be wiped out with a dry cloth or with
a minute or so. paper towels, or even with some wadded newspaper; then the well-
3. Do not add cold cream or milk; make it warm at least. strained fats may be returned to the pot. The wire basket should also
4. A good pinch of baking powder tossed in with salt and white be wiped clean; then it may be replaced in the fat, in the pot. The out-

218 219
of-use deep-fryer, with its properly cleaned fat, may be stored in any service-time. Let's briefly see what can be done with some vegetables
cool dry place until next use; not necessarily in the 'fridge, but away and a deep-fat fryer.
from the heat of the stove. To use again it is simply slowly reheated;
additional new fat may be added if needed. The hot fats are best
strained through a cloth; though some paper towels (over a wire Asparagus: Fresh tips, pre-cooked not quite tender; breaded and deep-
strainer) will do the trick. fried. Very firm canned tips, breaded, deep-fried, or either may
Frying fat is usually hot enough if a cube of bread browns nicely be 'battered' instead of breaded; fried.
in 30-40 seconds; if less the fat may be too hot. The frying property of Broccoli: possible, as above, but hardly advisable.
the fat will slightly deteriorate with each use; after several uses perhaps Carrots: Cooked tender; small whole ones or quartered larger ones
even a dozen it will no longer brown properly, and this will never do! in 3 inch long pieces; lightly breaded; deep-fried.
It is best to simply discard the used fat (NOT in the sink! No ... not Cauliflower: (sections), flowers cooked not too well done, breaded,
in the bifly either! Put it into an empty tin can; let it cool; put it cold fried, or small flowers in batter, deep-fried.
in the 'fridge, where it will set solid. Put can of cold fat into a paper Celery: cooked stalks, split if wide, not over 3-4 inches, breaded or
bag and into the trash). Wipe out the fryer. NO WATER! Fill with battered and deep-fried.
fresh fat and start again. Cukes: average size cut across middle; each half quartered, making
8 pieces; raw and Hot peeled; breaded and deep-fried.
DEEP-FRIED VEGETABLES To cooks, even compact ones, who Eggplant: slices or spears, etc. first brought just to boil 10 very heavily
are lucky enough to have a deep-fryer, there is a whole list of possibili- salted water, drained well, breaded, deep-fried.
ties in the vegetable line that is much overlooked by American cooks. Mushrooms: Fresh mushrooms, washed and dried, may be quickly
Of course, we've all heard of French-frying, and know that it indicates cooked in deep fryer. Do not bread.
foods fried in hot, deep fat. Some of these things are partially pre- Okra: whole okra, lightly boiled, drained, breaded, deep-fried.
cooked; are breaded or battered; then re-dunked in the hot grease. Onions: French-fried onions are a great favorite'. Cut in fairly thick
What few of us know is that those sneaky French don't have a comer rings, using onions with heavy rings such as Spanish (red), or
on this at all; the Russians do it, if and when they have anything to yellow-browns. White onions have thin rings; not good for this.
fry or fat to fry it in; the Chinese are old hands at this bit. Deep-fried Some cooks flour rings; dip in a batter; deep-fry. We prefer a
foods such as tempura are a principal feature of Japanese cooking, double or triple breading: (1) into flour; (2) into dip (see below),
where it is called agemono. or plain buttermilk; (3) again into flour; (4) again into dip or,
Those clever Italians have divided their deep-frying into 3 or 4 buttermilk; (5) and again into flour. Then they are fried in quite
groupings and listings, and make quite a thing of it, particularly with hot deep-fat. Will need turning for even frying; fry not too many
deep-fried vegetables. These are called fritto-misto de vegetale (mixed at a time. Drain on paper at once after taking from grease. Rings
fried vegetables). There is also a fritto-misto de pesce (fish); Fritto- 0
may be held for few minutes, or while frying more in a 250 oven.
misto de carne (meat); de pollo (chicken); and even of certain sweets, Salt just before serving; or use celery salt for an added flavor. Do
called fritto de dolce. Oh, those Italians know a good thing when they not let these stand; they must be crisp and hot. A little practice
see it! will turn out fine French-Fried Onion Rings.
With raw vegetables that are not breaded or battered such as pota- Parsnips: As with carrots, just-cooked jpears of parsnip ~re breaded;
toes, it is customary to first blanch them as noted above; then to finish then deep-fried. These are delicious!
them later. Squash: Zuchinni may be deep-fried, just as cucumbers (see above).
Potatoes or any other deep-fried foods should only be salted just Some other squash, the hard ones, in pieces would require pre-
as served. Salt or water in the deep-frying fat will ruin it, or break it cooking (boiling), then could be breaded and deep-fried.
down, and will usually cause it to boil over on the stove. Very, very Tomatoes: Small, not too ripe tomatoes can be peeled, halved, breaded,
messy! deep-fried. We think they are better broiled or fried (Chapt. 10)
While many Americans have eaten only French fried potatoes, Turnips: Precooled spears of turnip could be deep-fried as we have
many vegetables can be so cooked. Besides, pre-cooking and breading suggested for carrots and parsnips; but again we think these are
can be done handily in advance and the finished cooking done at better just plain boiled with a little butter and nutmeg on them.
220 221
 And so it goes with the deep-fried vegetable bit; a mixture-of sev- Or any vegetable may be done singly. This is a real handy preparation,
eral kinds of vegetables, nicely breaded and fried, is a pleasure to see as the vegetables may be blanched or pre-cooked as far ahead as the
and to eat. Almost any combinations of the above would make'. a nice day before. Cook in lightly sugared water, then drain again and put
plateful or use just one kind. Be sure to clean the frying-fat aft'er use. in the 'fridge until needed. This Italian pan-frying takes only a couple
of minutes when you are ready. (Don't so many good things?)
STANDARD BREADING PROCEDURE This is for meats, fish, Let's go all the way: there is one other popular method of cooking
poultry, vegetables, etc. A couple of Hat pans and a bowl are needed.
vegetables, particularly peas and beans, that is much in favor in Italy.
In the first pan: Hour, with salt, pepper, possibly some MSG. In the About a cup and a half of water goes into a small saucepan; a heaped
bowl: the DIP consisting of 2 beaten eggs, ~ cup water; ~ cup milk, tablespoon of butter is added; a pinch of sugar. As this comes to a boil,
For a lighter batter use only one egg, or more liquid. Many cooks add a cupful of peas or green beans. This pot may be partially covered,
simply use plain buttermilk for a dip; we prefer it for chicken. In the but steam should escape. Let the mixture cook down 'til most of the
third pan: water evaporates which will leave seasoned, cooked peas-or beans-
% fine bread or cracker crumbs, or cracker meal, etc. in butter. Cute?
~j flour.Add some paprika and mix together. DRIED VEGETABLES Right away, we come to a lot of dried
Dip item in Hour (pan 1); shake off excess; then into DIP; then up numbers, and these have never been of particular interest; so we'll
into crumbs (pan 3). Press crumbs firmly onto pieces, shake just grope our way through with as much haste as possible.
excess off. Lay in single layer on wax paper, covered with waxed RICE Two thirds of the world's people eat rice as the principle
paper, 'til used. Items may well be breaded ahead and kept in cold staple of their diet so it must have something. Comparatively few
dry place for few hours. Long stay in 'fridge or in other moist American cooks have constant success with rice; some never have. In
cold, would make breading soggy and it would probably come Chapter 4 we've gone on in some detail about how to cook plain rice;
off in frying. let's not do it all over again.
Another deep-frying cover, is a STANDARD FRYING BATTER. Among rice dishes found around the world, most notable are: Pilav,
Mix in a bowl: or Pilaf (many spellings, many lands, many recipes); Pilau in most
1 cup all-purpose Hour sifted with: East and West Indies; Arroz in Spanish-Latin countries; Italy's Risotto,
~~tsp. salt; pinch white pepper; 1 scant tsp. Baking Powder. Com- and so on. All are somewhat similar in preparation, though the Near
bine 2 well beaten eggs with % cup cold milk. Gradually stir into Eastern Pilaf seems to omit much of the initial fat that would be used,
Hour mixture. When all mixed, stir in 1 scant Tbs. olive oil, or say, in a risotto. To make a Pilaf (for 2) have ready:
salad oil, or liquid shortening, or melted butter. Some cooks sep- 1 tsp. olive oil % cup rice, well washed and
arate the eggs; mix yolks with milk, etc., and after oil is in mix, 2 Tbs. minced onion and f!.arlic drained
fold in stiffly beaten whites. Some batters-and there are many- ~~tsp. crumbled oregano leaf 2 full cups stock (consomme)
substitute beer for the milk. How crazy can ya get! That stuff is !~tsp. salt or other; preferably from
for drtnkin', standin' up or layin' down ya drinks beer! lamb bones
ITALIAN-STYLE (pan fried) VEGETABLES A method of prep-
aration that has been blamed on Italians, and is featured in most Amer- Lightly fry minced onion and garlic in oil, do not brown. Dump
ican-Italian restaurants, is to take bright, fresh or frozen vegetables, in washed rice; add salt, oregano. Mix together over low heat.
that are cooked to not-quite-tender, (al dente ... if you'd like to be Pour in 1~ cups lamb (or other) stock. Cover tightly. Cook over
very Italian about it), using a single vegetable or a mixture of 2 or medium heat for 5 minutes; gradually reduce heat to low, cooking
more. These are tossed in a skillet "til very hot through, with a generous for 20 minutes. Set oven at 350°. At end of this cooking time,
spoonful of olive oil and garlic oil. (Note: All Italian cooks have a bottle uncover rice; stir in-with long-tined fork-remaining half cup
of garlic oil on hand-see Chapt. 3). This quick reheating keeps the of (warmed) stock. Put uncovered pot into oven. Bake for 15
vegetables bright, colorful, and very, very tasty! Almost any combina- minutes. Rice will be flaky, flavorful. And, if you should know a
tion of just-cooked vegetables may be used; spinach is usually one. handsome young "Greek God," this should make him .. er, "go."

222 223
 RISOTTO MILANAISE This is the classic version of the rice New Orleans is called a JAMBALAYA. Ham and/or bacon (and their
dish, and there are probably as many variations as there are Italian fats) are included here, with some blanched (partly cooked) vege-
communities. tables such as onion, celery, peppers, fresh tomato, etc., tossed into the
1 Tbs. olive oil % cup rice, washed and drained
pot. Stock is possibly chicken, often part tomato juice. This brings us
1 Tbs. melted butter 2 full cups stock-beef and/or to the often sad American version called SPANISH RICE. Here, rice
1 tsp. garlic oil chicken with possibly a little onion, is cooked with tomato juice as stock. While
2 Tbs. minced onion, garlic 2 to 4 rounded Tbs. grated Par- there is really nothing wrong with this as an idea; a great many 'home-
~;tsp. salt mesan 'cooks' don't know about washing rice, with a resultant gummy, soggy,
!f tsp. crumbled oregano, basil opt: % tsp. ground saffron heavy-sort of pudding.
leaf opt: 1 Tbs. tomato paste And while we're at it many gourmets have found that SAFFRON
opt: 2 Tbs.lean ham, in small dice RICE is an ideal accompaniment to any of the exotic curries in Chapt.
4. Simple, and real tasty, if you find that you like the taste and frag-
Use a heavy-bottomed pot for this. Heat combined oils and butter, rance of saffron. Proceed exactly as for Oriental Rice; when water is
not excessively; cook onion-garlic to transparent. Do not fry or brown. finally measured onto washed rice in the pot, with the water an inch
Add washed rice; stir it around in fat (with wooden fork) 'til each over the grains, carefully pour this water off the rice, setting the pot of
grain is separate, oily, glistening (about 5 minutes). Raise heat a little; rice aside for a few minutes. (This is before the rice is cooked!) With
pour in l)~ cups stock gradually, stirring steadily 'til almost at a boil the water, and an added half cup, in another small pot, drop into it
(not quite!). Add salt, oregano and basil leaves. Let cook; shaking pot a!~ tsp. of shredded saffron or less. Bring this to a near boil; let steep
and stirring with that or wooden fork, for 15 minutes until much of the for 3-5 minutes. The color of the water should be a violent yellow, and
stock is absorbed. Meanwhile, bring remaining !~cup (or little more) the aroma from it very pungent. Strain this liquid, through a cloth or
stock almost to a boil; add powdered saffron to it. If shred saffron is a fine hair strainer, pour back over the uncooked rice; shake to mix.
used, the stock will have to be strained. Set oven at 375 Let saffron-
0
• Then, continue as for Oriental Rice preparation. Cooked rice will be
stock simmer 5 minutes or so until it is a brilliant yellow and pungent. just as flaky, but it will be a brilliant yellow, and very aromatic. Inci-
By this time much of the stock in the other pot has been absorbed dentally, use saffron sparingly; some is fresher than others, and also
by the rice; if to be used, stir in tomato paste and diced ham. Stir in stronger, and some people may not care for it at first. Another reason
saffron stock mixing well, then stir in the grated cheese. Put pot into to be sparing of saffron is that it costs about $80.00 a lb., and that, my
oven for 15 minutes, after which time risotto should be flaky and good. dears, is expensive eating.
Garlic, herbs, saffron, and cheese, may be used in this recipe, accord- Leftover boiled rice may be used for many things; in muffins, hot-
ing to taste. Serve with more cheese in side dish, and a bowl of any cakes, soup, etc., but best in a RICE CUSTARD PUDDING:
flavorful Italian sauce, if desired. Many Latin-Spanish countries make
similar rice dishes, and many of these are heavily flavored with saffron;
4 eggs, beaten ~ftsp. Vanilla, few drops Almond
2~f cups milk !~tsp. lemon extracts
all also usually include a little of some herb, onion and garlic. Chicken
!j to !f cups sugar sprinkle of nutmeg
stock is much favored as a liquid in many cases, such as Mexico's
!f tsp. salt l-nf cups dry, cooked rice
ARROZ can POLLO where the chicken is actually cooked along with
the rice, which tastily absorbs its fat and savor. Spain's famed PAELLA You'll need a double boiler, and either a casserole or about 6 indi-
goes even further, as not only chicken is cooked with the rice, but vidual custard baking cups lightly greased or buttered. Set oven at
shrimps, clams, mussels, lobster-any or all-are cooked with the rice 325 0; have pan with 1-2 inches of water in it, in which to set the cups
as well. This may sound just "too much" but, a good PAELLA a la or casserole. Over medium heat, in the top-pan of the double boiler,
VALENCIANA is a marvelous meal. heat milk, salt, sugar, flavorings. Beat eggs in separate bowl. Then
East and West Indian Pilaus are more similar to Greek and Near whipping steadily, pour in about one-half cup of the hot milk, beating
Eastern pilafs, but are often highly seasoned with spices and herbs. it into the eggs. Still whipping steadily, pour eggs back slowly into
Some Arabian and Persian rice dishes, however, are rather sweet and balance of milk, which is now on top of boiler. Cover, let cool. Take
may contain nuts, raisins, fruits, as well as cinnamon, etc. A West the top-pot-with the custard in it-out of the boiler part and set on
Indian rice dish, also very popular in some Gulf Coast cities such as inverted muffin tin or rack to cool. If you set the pan flat it'll be soggy

224 225
 substitute, wonderful in dressings and stuffings, and as a filler in meat
an' you know what we think of sogginess). By this time the mixture
loaves and hamburger. Also like rice, kasha is often served as a vege-
should be slightly thick. Rinse the rice under very hot water from the
table. It has a nut-like flavor, is, delicious, very nutritive. Most used
tap; let drain thoroughly, but rice should be warm. Gradually work
are cracked and medium-ground kasha; cooked almost as is rice, except
the rice into the custard mixture; spoon mixture into buttered cups
no washing is required. Kasha expands to a little over double in bulk
or casserole; sprinkle tops lightly with nutmeg. Set custards into pan
when cooked; half a cup of uncooked kasha will make a generous
of water; put into pre-heated oven. Bake until custard tests clean
portion. Kasha is often simply cooked in water; sometimes in chicken
with a broom-straw. This will be between 30 and 50 minutes. Take
stock, consomme, or other clear stock. To enhance its flavor a little we
pan from oven, leaving cups or casserole in water. Set out of draft to
add some seasoning. So, for two generous portions:
cool. Custards will be soft, but will firm up as they cool. When com-
pletely cold, store puddings in 'fridge. (No! not the freezer.) These 2 cups water (or stock) 1rounded Tbs. butter
are real swell for midnight snacks (if you've got nothing better in the J~ tsp. salt 1cup kasha (cracked or medium-
house). 1 tsp. MSG ground)
BEANS (DRIED) In culinary circles (some of our best friends Put liquid on brisk fire; add seasonings, butter. As butter melts,
cook!) you'll hear all sorts of tales about home-baked beans. Well, pour in kasha; shake together, cover pot tightly, reduce heat to
these can be very tasty or pretty awful, but you seldom hear about low for 5 minutes. Reduce further to lowest possible flame for
the hours and hours of picking, soaking, simmering, and slow-baking. 5-8 minutes more. Uncover when ready to serve.
And, when you're all done you've only got a pot of baked beans and Kasha is tastily good, inexpensive, and different. Incidentally, a
an odor that will never come out of the drapes. (We say: 't hell wit' itl) fine substitute for the very expensive wild rice stuffing is made by
Nowadays you can buy better canned baked beans, in many styles using % cooked kasha with}~ cooked (white) rice, plus a little added
from Boston to Barbecue, much cheaper than you can do it at home herbs and seasoning. It looks like wild rice, even tastes somewhat simi-
and (G0d knows!) they are much easier. So if you have illusions of lar. And, though genuine wild rice is admittedly wonderful in squabs,
softening up some peripatetic guest ("walking or cruising about" our etc., it costs over $2.00 per pound!
reference says) with a mess 0' beans, we sincerely suggest you buy
a can or so an' heat 'em up. A little incense for later may come in PASTAS By this we mean all of the several hundred forms of pasta
that includes noodles, spaghetti, macaroni, lasagna, and the like. These
handy as well. More seriously, almost every conceived style of bean
preparation, and this includes fresh beans as well as dried ones, now make fairly inexpensive dishes if kept simple; are appetizing and usual-
comes in cans or frozen packaging so why do it the hard way? ly well received. In Chapt. 4 we detailed some standard sauces for
these; in Chapt. 7 we lightly covered the familiar meat balls. As nearly
Lentils we'll happily ignore. Dried and/or split peas . . .? We'll
simply say that almost anything you can do with these, has been done all pasta can be cooked in less than 20 minutes, quick dishes can be
by Campbell's. So go get a canful. made. If sauce is on hand, all else required is some good, freshly-grated
This leaves us with a thought (just!) of black-eyed peas, beauti- cheese, preferably Parmesan or Romano.
fully canned, ready-cooked. Both fresh ones and dried. Ravioli are a form of pasta, come in cans, also fresh in some delica-
Let's see now ... grits? Ugh! Or whole hominy! This too is fine in tessens. These last are best. All pasta, including ravioli, are cooked
cans, both white and yellow; you can't never get it so good out of that primarily the same way: plenty of water is heated to a fast-rolling boil.
01' kettle of com and wood-ash lye ... Salt may be added; some Italian cooks add a spoonful of oil to the
Barley? Who needs it? Cornmeal? Very handy to have on hand; several quarts of water required. The pasta is dropped in quickly\ so
almost any standard cookbook will tell you some fascinatin' things to as not to halt the boiling. A few quick stirs with a long fork will prevent
do with cornmeal, not us. sticking. Pasta is cooked from 10 minutes to 18 minutes depending on
Kasha: This is an unusual cereal-grain. Supposedly from Eastern its size. When you suspect it is done, take a piece out and pinch it. It
and Middle Europe, Kasha is now on almost every large market shelf. should still have a little firmness, or be-as Italians have it-al dente.
It comes as a whole grain, or cracked, medium-ground, and fine ground. Turn off fire under pot, let it stand for 3 or 4 minutes dump it into a
Kasha is buckwheat kernels or groats. It is machine or sun-dried, and colander or strainer. Wash with boiling water, tossing about. Do not
is probably treated to some processing. Like rice, kasha is a fine potato allow the pasta to lose heat. Serve at once on buttered plate or bowl;

227
226
tossing with more butter, pepper, cheese, finally covering it with the QUICK BEEF STEW
sauce. Serve extra sauce and cheese on the side. Pasta does not reheat 1 can (20-30 oz.) Beef Stew 1 can small whole onions
too well, though this is often done. If pasta is cooked al dente, is thor- 1 can Roast Beef 02-14 oz.) 4 Tbs. red wine (Claret, Burgundy)
oughly washed, is held in a container of cold water, it may be kept in 1 can Beef Gravy 2 bouillon cubes
the 'fridge for a day or so. To reheat, the required amount of the 1 can "vegetables for salad" 1 tsp. MSG
cooked pasta is put into a strainer and plunged for a couple of minutes 1 can small whole potatoes salt & pepper
into a pot of madly-boiling water. Drain and serve at once. It is better,
however, to cook just enough fresh pasta as needed. About J~ lb. is a
generous man's serving. Use large heavy pot; dump in canned stew, drained vegetables
Many Italians, (Americans too!) don't care for tomato-based sauces. and the gravy. Set over medium low flame. Carefully open roast
If, while pasta is cooking, a little olive oil (say 2 Tbs.), plus 4 Tbs. of beef (which should be in one piece). Drain all juices from this
butter, are heated in a small skillet with several cloves of garlic (minced into small separate pot. Cut beef into 8-10 chunks; stir easily into
or sliced) and cooked to a light brown and this is poured over the hot heating stew. Add wine to liquid from beef, dissolve bouillon
pasta, with plenty of cheese, perhaps a little chopped sweet basil, all cubes in this, add MSG; stir this carefully into big pot. Season hot
mixed together well with a couple of forks you have a standard PASTA gravy to taste, if needed. Even small cans of potatoes and onions
ALLA OILIO E AGLIO, and is very tasty (very fattening, too, are more than needed here; so, open these, taking half the contents
dearie! ). of each out of can liquid. (These are optional but good; save
remaining onions and potatoes in their juice in small glass jars in
MACARONI and CHEESE While this seems like a typical Amer- 'fridge for other use). Well, there you have it, a wonderful, flavor-
ican dish, it obviously must be Italian originally. Men LOVE it! So, to ful, home-made Beef Stew in about 40 minutes. With potatoes
make quickly and easily for 3 or 4: and vegetables already in there, you've got a complete one-dish
meal. To be real homey, make biscuits; pressure-canned biscuits
1lb. large elbow Macaroni 1can Cheddar Cheese Soup
are about 10 for 10 cents, and you just open' em, put 'em on a pan,
salt; a little white pepper ~5can milk (soup can)
and bake' em. You'll possibly have stew (at least vegetables and
butter 2 Tbs. grated Parmesan Cheese
gravy) leftover. When cold, put it in a jar and in the 'fridge. With
Boil macaroni to just done; drain. Dump into a large bowl with some leftover scraps of cooked meat, and a pie-crust topping (also
the cheese soup, milk, salt and pepper. Stir together. Butter small out of a package) these make a dandy Meat Pie.
casserole; dump in the mixture. Sprinkle grated cheese on top.
0
Bake in 350 oven for 20-30 minutes. Serve from casserole, very Admittedly, packaged and processed products from the market
hot. shelves have removed much of the work from the home-kitchen; how-
If you're in a mad hurry, use a couple cans of macaroni with ever, these modern adaptions are not completely foolproof; in quite a
cheese sauce; add some salt and pepper; J~can of cheese soup with few instances they are not exactly all they are cracked up to be. Pack-
about J~ cup of milk. Proceed as above. Yes, some of the very best ages, for example, have an unpleasant way of containing less in the
and easiest things come in cans these days. However ... ~ box than you'll need; a package of pie-crust will claim to have enough
ODDS and ENDS We seem here to be on an "instant" kick; well, in it for 2 crusts. It won't, though the exact content weight will be on
as with the packaged foods which aren't always quite as instant as the package, making it legal. The can of concentrated juice will make
advertised, we'll offer some very handy shortcuts in getting it on the a gallon, it says, but this will be a pretty thin drink. The point is, (from
table. F'rinstance, there's stew. In Chapt. 7 we discussed some tedious the manufacturer's view), to make you buy 2 packages instead of one;
old-fashioned methods of making stews; we still feel that these give astute merchandising, what!
the ultimate in a perfect dish, at a minimum cost. However, they are Home cooks are always finding new things to do with processed
time consuming-and who has time, these days? So, with a quick tour foods; some are nice to know, particularly for our entertaining apart-
of the supermarket (after a moderate withdrawal from the bank) let's ment dweller. A real handy one is a SMALL PIZZA. To serve 4 (8
gather together these ingredients for a stew for two. individuals), you'll need:

228 229
 package of 4 English muffins J~tsp. basil leaves
4 slices lack cheese salt, pepper, sugar, MSG, garlic
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 can (small) tomato sauce
powder
4 oz. sliced mushrooms
CHAPTER TWELVE
2 Tbs. instant chopped onion OR 4 oz. sliced salami-chopped
OR 2 oz. anchovy fillets In Your Oven!
First, make sauce in small pot, using tomato sauce, onion, basil
dash each: salt, pepper, sugar, MSG, garlic. Let simmer a few
minutes. Split muffins, some of bread at center of each half may
be removed. Brush the halves with the olive oil. Cut two rounds
( with a glass or something) from each slice of cheese; these should Frozen Desserts Four Fruit Bread
be slightly smaller than muffins. Put about a tsp. of sauce in each Biscuit Tortoni Confectioner's Icing
Instant Puddings Old Fashioned Gingerbread
oiled half-muffin; top with a cheese round. Divide rest of sauce-
Rice puddings Pineapple Coffee Cake
about a Tbs. to each half-muffin-spreading it around on the Cookies:
Baked Apples in Wine
cheese. On this put the mushrooms, or anchovy, or salami, or Plain Baked Custard Fairy Fingers
whatever. Chop fine the pieces of cheese that were left after Zabaglione Hot Breads:
cutting the rounds, sprinkle this over each of the li'l pizzas. Bake Flaming desserts Mixes
Fresh Fruit Compotes Basic Biscuit Mix
on a sheet or Hat pan 10-15 minutes in a preheated 400° oven. Biscuit varieties
Pie, and pastry
These are real dandy with beer. With all the stuff ready, these other fruit pie Hot Breads:
can be made and served in about 20 minutes. Fine for guests and apple pie Shortbread
so on. Lemon Maringue Pie Hotcakes
Pumpkin Pie Muffins
These bits-odds and ends-could go on and on; you'll just have Custard Pie other preparations
to grope your own way around to find interesting items to munch on Cheese Blintzes Cornbread
at your place. It's a lot easier, these days, but it will cost you a little Cakes; Loaf Cakes Old Fashioned Boston
Brown Bread
money ... usually!
000

230
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 TWELVE
.:••:••:.•:...:••:..:.•:••:••:.•:••:••:.( .•:••:.•:..:••:.•:.·:.·:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··:··)·:··x·(-:":-(
••:••:":-4».:••) ..:-<-(•.,..:.•:.•:••:••:..-:••:-(-

As the reader (by now!) may have surmised, this cookbook is

different! While many recipe books are heavy with desserts and such
calorie-laden items, we'll take these things very lightly. Way back
there we said we'd be most interested in things easy to prepare in a
small kitchen; this includes that brace of hot-plates sitting in the bath-
tub. Also, we .said we'd be mindful of .costs-in whatever we cooked
up.
Speaking broadly, then, on the question of desserts and such, we
advise the compact-kitchen-cook to buy the stuff, not to try to make
it. First, it will probably cost as much or more to make as to buy. And,
if you're not experienced (at baking!) results are apt to be a mess;
costly as well as time consuming.
As an example, a homemade loaf of bread would cost no less than
one purchased; undoubtedly it would taste better, but it could take
all of 6 hours to whip up. A cake, even one made with prepared mixes,
would cost again as much as the good one you'd get from the bakery;
and-most important-you'd not only need an oven with reliably adjust-
able heat, but also pans, bowls, electric mixers, scales, spoons, an' all
that stuff.
This sort of advice-in-reverse could go on and on. Just buy the

233
 goodies in-a bakery, And here again a word to the wise; locate a small- top, and set pan and all into freezer. The pan will keep the shape;
ish neighborhood-type bakery, and get your stuff there, Frankly, the may be taken out after the cups have hardened. Freeze for four
assembly-line bakery products from the markets or from the big hours or more. To serve, take cups from freezer, but leave in
trucks, are not so hot. They're not only expensive, but they all seem paper cases; moisten tops lightly with brandy or other liqueur;
sort of tastesless, And the li'l bake-shop will, with some advance notice, decorate with chopped peels or cocoanut, with cherry pressed
make up almost anything you may want to order, So, if it's French in at top center. These are very cosmopolitan, tasty, and all that
Pastry you crave, don't attempt it y'self=buy it! jazz. A real nice dessert for summers; and-happily-one you can
However, there'll be a few who'd like recipes for some of the make ahead. We suggest that after the cups are hardened, each
simple things; some of these we'll throw in here, as well as some odd be wrapped in pliofilm, to protect from wear and tear.
ones of our own , , , and let me tell you, Marne, we've had some Nowadays there are a lot of packaged INSTANT PUDDINGS that
awfully odd ones at Happy House. need no cooking; just add milk and stir together, put the stuff into
FROZEN DESSERT First, there's ice cream. According to the serving glasses, chill and serve. Almost all men like Chocolate Pudding;
people who make and sell refrigerators, ice creams, sherbets, etc. are if a little Rum (or even some non-alcoholic Rum Flavoring) is added,
easily made in the 'fridge. 'Tain't so! In fact (just take our word) don't these are especially yummy. There's even a no-calorie type of these
even think about it. Buy good-and expensive-ice cream as you need puddings, so what can you lose? Serve these plain or with a glob of
it. And better make sure your box will keep it hard for an hour or so whipped cream or topping; even a cherry or a piece of pineapple on
'til you do want to serve it. Many an old one just won't keep the stuff them will make them an elegant dessert.
hard and flavorful, the way you want it. Tryout a small package first. Or, a simple 01' RICE PUDDING may seem like a good idea; and
(Always a good policy! ) it's easy to do. Take:
To make your own genuine ice-cream at home (and when it's good,
it's real good) you'll need an ice-cream freezer, either electric or hand- 4~~cups milk rind of a lemon, grated fine
cranked. This last always seems like such a waste of manpower-or ~~to % cup raw rice 3 egg yolks-beaten
something. However, if your pad runs to a freezer dept. ( that 'will 4 Tbs. sugar Meringue:
truly freeze) you might make up 6 to 8 portions of a world-famed 1 Tbs. butter 3 egg whites, beaten
dessert: few grains salt 3 Tbs. sugar, with pinch of
2 Tbs. lemon juice (or less) Tartar
BISCUIT TORTONI:
sugar (generous ~~cup) 1 Tbs. fine-chopped citron Wash rice thoroughly, cook in top of double boiler with milk,
1 tsp. vanilla 3 Tbs. chopped pistachios sugar, butter, salt, to tender. (About 50-60 minutes.) Add rind,
4 eggs, lightly beaten (or toasted almonds) beaten yolks, lemon juice. Whip lightly. Put into a baking dish
1 Tbs. Maraschino Liqueur 1pt. thick whipping cream (or casserole) or into individual cups (4-6). Let cool. May be
(or Cherry Brandy) 6-8 red Maraschino cherries chilled and served as is, or you can flossy it up with meringue.
3 Tbs. almond macaroon about 2 Tbs. fine-chopped orange (Ya gotta do something with those whites). Beat the white stiff,
crumbs or lemon peel, or colored coconut gradually working in the sugar to which you've added a good
pinch of Cream of Tartar. A very little lemon juice, or a drop
1. In top of double-boiler, mix sugar, vanilla, yolks. Stir constant- or so of lemon or almond extract, may be added to the meringue.
ly (this is over hot water in the bottom of the thing); when thick, Pile this goo onto the pudding; brown it in a hot (450 0
oven
)

take from heat, whisk 'til light and Huffy. for 5-8 minutes. The pudding should be quite light and moist.
2. When cool, mix in brandy or cherry liqueur (or try over-proof When putting it into casserole or cups it may seem too loose; it'll
Jamaica Rum!), the macaroon crumbs that have been put through thicken as it cools and chills.
a coarse sieve, the fine-chopped citron, and the nuts. ( We used
toasted, flaked almonds and chop them a bit.) Among the very best desserts are some of the simple ones made
3. Beat the cream 'til semi-stiff; fold mixture into it. of fresh fruits. (Quiet back there!) Plain baked apples or pears are
4. Use two paper muffin cups, set in a muffin pan; fill them to dandy; can be done ahead of time and nicely chilled in the 'fridge.

234 235
These can also be 'flavored up' with suitable wines or liqueurs, to make so the custard can creep up and hold." Well, it's an opinion. Take
them real P-elegant. As with: your choice. We butter very lightly!). Pour custard into cups
BAKED APPLE (Happy Hous~) Use hard apples, as McIntosh, to top. Lightly dust with nutmeg. Set the full cups in a pan that
Winesaps, etc. Make a syrup; 2 cups water; 2 lbs. sugar; bringing has about an inch of warm water in it, and put it all into the center
just to a boil to dissolve completely. Add a good dash of red coloring. of a 325°-350° oven. (As a matter of fact, it is really easier to
Core apples; cut across tops in several places. Put apples in pan 3-4 half fill the cups, set them into the water pan, shove this into
inches deep; fill centers with a little brown sugar. Toss a dozen cloves the oven, then-carefully reaching in-fill the cups the rest of the
around them, and a couple of sticks of cinnamon if you have it. Or way. This seems to save a lot of spillage and a messy oven. And
throw in a small handful of candy red hots; these will flavor and who the hell wants a messy oven, or who wants to waste any of
color. Pour syrup over and around; should come up about halfway that grand, creamy custard?) Bake for 45-75 minutes. Custard
on the apples. Cover with another pan. Put in oven for about 30 min- cups vary in thickness and material, so baking time for the custard
utes. (Watch these times as apples vary in cooking; they'll mush if also must vary. Glass cups, for example, will bake anything much
cooked too well). Turn apples over in syrup, and cook again for about faster and at lower heat than crockery. After about a half hour,
half as long. The apple should be tender through, but not mushy. pull custards forward in oven and test with a nice long broom
Take pan from open; uncover and let cool in syrup. When cold, again straw. If it comes out dry, they're done, even though they will
turn apples over, so that cut tops are up. They may be carefully trans- appear soft. They'll set as they cool. Carefully take the pan from
ferred to another pan (the empty top); and the syrup is then strained, the oven and set to cool. When the water is cold, take out the
and saved separately. Just cover apples with port Wine or with half cups and cool them further on a rack; when thoroughly cold,
Port-half Burgundy. Let 'em chill in the 'fridge. To serve, pour off put 'em in the 'fridge to chill lightly. Never freeze 'em. Or, custards
the wine (savel ), mix about a cupful of the wine with half a cup of may be served just lukewarm; some like it that way.
the syrup. Put apples in individual serving dishes, with a few spoonfuls A famed Italian dessert-and one easy to make-is ZABAGLIONE
of the mixed wine and syrup over them. Real good, and actually quite
(or Zabione). This custard is quickly cooked over hot water; best to
easy to do. It is possible, if they are carefully watched, to bake these
use a round metal bowl, set over-but not in-a pan of boiling water.
over an open top-burner, instead of in the oven. The covering pan
First, put in the bowl: 6 egg yolks and 3 Tbs. sugar. Beat (not over
must keep steam in; heat must be kept low. The apples may cook
the water) to 'Hght. In a separate pan or cup, have ready ?4 cup of
quicker over this direct heat so watch it.
heavy sherry (or Marsala) wine; it is best if this is just slightly warmed.
PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD Perhaps the simplest of desserts, a Now, put bowl with the eggs and sugar over the hot water, and start
custard, is one of the best. These are most often served plain, without beating. Use a wooden spoon or a wire whip. Beat steadily; as it starts
any sauce or garnish and right in the cup they're baked in. To make to thicken, and this one comes up pretty fast, gradually pour in the
4 (average) cup custards: wine, still whipping steadily. In a minute or so, you'll have a light,
fluffy custard. Don't overheat it. Quickly pile it into sherbet glasses
1 pt. half and half (or coffee !~tsp. vanilla
or whatever, and serve hot. Or, the glassfuls may be cooled, then
cream) few drops almond extract
4 medium large eggs few drops lemon extract chilled to be served cold later. A small, light cookie, or even a mad
4 oz. (scant !~cup) sugar (Rum extract could be used) 'Petit four' would go well with this simple dessert.
few grains salt sprinkle with nutmeg FLAMING DESSERTS Many very simple desserts' are elegantly
flossed up with a garnish; most impressive are the ones that flame
Scald the light cream (bring almost to a boil); let it cool slightly.
madly. Of course, the compact cook and diner can't be bothered with
Beat sugar, salt, flavorings, into eggs. Gradually pour the warm
cream into the eggs, mixing thoroughly, but not overbeating. all that chafing-dish-in-flames stuff that goes with the various crepes,
(We have gone on at some length, previously, about the dangers with cherries Jubilee, 'n jazz like that. But it can give a girl ideas.
Take, f'rinstance, a simple scoop of sherbet in a dish. Use a small
of over-beating anything ... particularly what is intended as lump of sugar or half of one of the large ones. Set it in the top of the
dessert). Very lightly butter the custard cups, (there is a school sherbet; carefully pour a few drops of lemon (or orange or banana)
of cooks who say "never butter custard cups leaving the sides dry extract on the sugar. Light it at once; flames will last for several min-
236 237

~
 utes, sorta melting down the sugar and flaming the dessert. See? This
easy but spectacular garnish can work on many simple desserts. Try it. However, nothing is quite so much of a homey touch as the fresh-baked
Simplest of desserts are fresh and/or canned fruits, served chilled pie. It'll cost as much or more than a store-bought pastry; but it really
with a cookie. Unaccountably, fresh fruits seem to be more and more gives a girl her jollies to serve up a piece made by hand.
costly, and the ones available in even the biggest markets are not Also, pie is real man bait. Favorite is apple, then cherry, lemon-
always of the best quality. On the other hand, canned fruits in a large meringue, pumpkin, and so on. Like so many things we do, it takes
variety of sizes and shapes are always ready to tuck handily in the a certain amount of crust, so let's make some pie crust.
'fridge. If forgotten 'til last minute, a few minutes in the actual freezing , There are all kinds of prepared and semi-prepared pie-crusts and
compartment will do the trick. Many of these are dietetic packs with mixes in the market at all kinds of prices. Cheap ones usually are just
low sugar and calorie content. that and while almost all packaged mixes supposedly contain enough
Canned fruits, chilled and perhaps garnished with a little wine or for two generous crusts, they very often don't. So, ya gotta buy two
packages. (Ya can't win sometimes.)
brandy or other liqueur, make easy fancy desserts, and they're not even
too expensive. Let's make our 9 inchpie all the way.
First, you need a 9 inch pan, or a pan 8-10 inches, (A full ten inch
All syrups and other liquids from canned fruits should be carefully
number is very hard to find, believe us.) Then, we get together:
saved in the 'fridge, in a tight-topped glass jar. If quite a lot of canned
fruits are used, it is wise to keep red and white juices separate. These 2 generous cups All-Purpose flour (a half pound, plus enough
can be used in sauces, puddings, in drinks, and in making gelatin des- more on the side to fool with. )
serts. These last are a great favorite, and are certainly easy to make; 2/5 lb. lard (many swear by certain shortenings, oil, even butter.
they are twice as flavorful when the saved canned-fruit juice replaces We like lard, and it's cheaper.)
the water ordinarily used. The juice-of course-is brought just to a 1 tsp. salt
boil before it is added to the' packaged crystals. 1 Tbs. sugar
FRESH FRUIT COMPOTES A summer favorite-and also very 1 pinch ground Mace (if you don't have this, don't rush out to
healthful (and Gawd knows, we wanna be healthy, tool) is a well- buy some; it can easily be omitted. )
chilled bowl of fresh, mixed fruits. Almost any fruit can go into this 3~cup (scant) water
one, fresh or canned. (Come, ladies, stop that tittering back there!) n~tsp. white vinegar-in the water. (Professional bakers agree
The fruits are cut into bite-sized pieces, after paring, etc. and will the vinegar makes pie crust flakier. )
keep bright and fresh-looking if put at once into a bowl of slightly
sweetened juice or light syrup. (Nice place for some of that saved-up
canned fruit juice.) Or, wine or brandy may be added to the light Toss all but the liquid into a bowl; the lard-or other shortening
syrup (or saved juices) to make a particularly interesting dessert. does not necessarily have to be ice-cold. Mix with a couple of table-
Let's not forget berries, grapes, avocadoes, fresh pineapple, to say knives held together, or a blender., using a cutting stroke. Cut to
nothing of fresh melons and their balls! a coarse, mealy consistency. Make a hole in center; pour in ~ of
We'll throw in a word or two here about the Continental custom the water-vinegar. Quickly stir together with a table fork or a
of serving fresh fruits with cheese after a dinner. This is sort of formal, wooden fork from a salad set. Add rest of the liquid around the
but is never out of place after any kind of a meal. While it might seem edges where mixture is driest. Stir together; it will still seem to
to demand extra plates, knives for peeling, etc.; as well as an assort- be too dry and crumbly. (That's good!) Gently press down in the
ment (on a plate) of several cheeses, it is really little trouble and is bowl; then invert bowl, dumping it all out onto a large sheet of
very, very good for a dessert. (After all, m'dears, 50 million French heavy waxed paper like a bread wrapper. It will still look too
could hardly be wrong.) It's a happy and socially correct idea. So dry, but shove it all together, then roll it up tightly in the paper,
slip him an apple and a chunk of cheddar, and freshen your make-up. and put it into the 'fridge. Rolling together will help (it always
The program should be on soon. does) blend the pastry; the chilling will set it into a workable
PIE. Can you bake a cherry pie, Billy Boy? So goes a mad old pastry-dough. Chill in the 'fridge for a few hours or even over
night; when you unwrap it onto a lightly floured work table or
madrigal. The problem these days of course is in finding any cherries!
pastry cloth, you'll find it'll roll nicely.
238
239

,
j
 A heavy cloth, even a canvas lightly floured, is best to roll large portions) will cost about a dollar, let's keep it down as much
pie dough on. Roll out a little more than half your dough into as possible. There will be almost no liquid on the canned sliced apples;
a round an inch or so larger than your pan. Fold it over, pick it so we must make a thickened syrup. To fa cup of water, brought to a
up and fit it into the pan evenly, with so much hanging over the boil, we whip in one cup of sugar. When this dissolves, and is not quite
sides; the dough should not be stretched. Roll out the other part boiling, we stir in 2 rounded Tablespoons of cornstarch that have been
of your dough for the top crust. Fold it over, too,-and slash some slightly dissolved in 4 Tbs. cold water (hot water won't do it). Pour
airholes in it. Set aside. this into the sugar-syrup, over medium heat. Stir with whip until syrup
Put your prepared fruit (more about this later) into the raw again clears. Cool slightly; add 1 Tbs. butter; )~ tsp. vanilla; )~ tsp.
crust in the pan. Beat up a small egg with a tsp. of water; moisten lemon extract; a few drops of almond. (Well, that's what WE do; many
pastry around the rim with this with a small brush. Put spices, don't use any flavoring, but guys sure like our pies!) Carefully stir in
sugar, butter, etc. on top of the fruit; then put on the top crust. the apple slices from the cans so as not to mush 'ern. When well mixed
Press edge down all around; crimp with a fork if you like or with the syrup, spoon fruit into the lower, raw pie-crust (as above);
pinch it up with your fingers. The egg-water between the two dot the fruit with bits of butter, toss on )~cup of brown sugar, a dust-
layers of dough at the edges, and ing of cinnamon, nutmeg, all-spice. (Any or all three; spices may be
the crimping, etc., will seal the pie. . light or heavy-however you like it-light or heavy). We grate a little
Trim around the outside of the pan, lemon rind on the fruit, t o.
taking off the extra dough hanging
over the edge. Use this for a turn- Note: The saved iuices from canned fruits (particularly pine-
over, with a dab of fruit or even apple) can replace th water when making the thickening syrup;
jam, in the center; or save it for slightly less sugar can the e.used.
future use. Paint the whole pie top OTHER FRUIT PIES Fruit for most pies is thickened similarly;
with the rest of the egg-water (this with cherries and berries, and rhubarb, some added red color is advis-
gives it a glaze). Put pie into a able. With cherry pie, we use a little more almond extract, a few drops
pre-heated 425 oven; after 15 min-
0
of lemon, no vanilla. Half a tsp. of wild cherry extract will make this
utes, reduce heat to 3.500-375 0 for 40 minutes more. Turn around one mad!
in oven at least once for even browning. A pan underneath the With peaches: no vanilla, half a tsp. almond, few drops lemon;
pie (which should be in the middle of the oven) will catch any and with apricots a little less almond (than with peaches), few drops
drippings, and save some oven-cleaning. lemon, no vanilla. With most berries, aside from the red color, use
Now, some hard and fast rules: The less liquid used, the flakier maybe )~tsp. each of lemon and almond. With Rum and Raisin Pie, we
the pastry. The less the pastry (dough) is handled in preparation, the use (added to the cooled syrup) half a tsp. vanilla, 1 Tbs. Rum Extract
less tough it will be. A hot pie is nice, but it is best to cool a fruit pie, (non-alcoholic). And so it goes, where flavoring will give that extra
letting the juices thicken; then reheat slightly. This is much better something to your fruit pie.
than cutting into a hot one right out of the oven, which would be all
LEMON MERINGUE PIE This is a real yummy dessert but is
runny. To keep a cooled pie, put it in the 'fridge only if completely
not really one for the amateur to tackle. We'll tell you how, but will
wrapped in plastic or in a wax paper bag; otherwise the damp air in
warn you, it takes lots of time, lots of pots and bowls to wash, and is
the box will make the pie soggy.
very often unsuccessful. Particularly that meringue; you can beat it
PIE FILLINGS Now, a word about fillings, and let's start with and beat it (sometimes) and it'll seem to be stiff enough, but it'll just
apple. Fresh apples for pies may be cored, peeled, sliced, etc., like sag and droop when you stick it in your oven; it'll be even limper when
Grandma used to do it, but this certainly doubles the work. For a you pull it out, and this, Ladies, ain't good!
well-filled pie use 2)~cans of sliced pie apples. These cans are about You'll need 2 eight or nine inch pie tins. Set oven for 425 0

20 oz. each, and will cost .25-.30 a can. More expensive are Prepared
( thickened) Pie Apples; which seem to have less apple and a lot of 2/3 or 3/5 of Pastry Mix (back a few pages) OR enough rich
costly thickening. As our big fat 9 inch apple pie (serving 8, or 6 real pastry crust dough for one large generous crust.
240 241
 of stuff will shrink up. Leave a couple of peaks, if you like or
for Lemon Filling:
4 large egg yolks fancy it up any way you like to swish it. Shove the pie into the oven
for not over 15 minutes; top of the meringue should just barely
1 cup sugar
1 Tbs. fine-grated lemon-rind begin to brown, then take it out.
~~cup lemon juice And there's your great, big, gorgeous, ome-made Lemon Meringue
2~ Tbs. water Pie, at last! (Take an aspirin or have a b er!)
1 (rounded) Tbs. Cornstarch Now, a prepared pastry-mix (pie d ugh) could be used for the
1 (rounded) Tbs. Butter crust here; a couple of those little boxes Lemon Pie Filling could
drop or two of yellow color. be used for the filling; and some such goop as Dream-Whip or other
for Meringue: artficial topping could replace the meringue. These substitutions would
make it all a little easier, will probably cost a little more, and won't
4 egg whites 2 drops lemon extract taste half as good. Or, hell Marie, go to the baker's and buy a pie. We
1 (scant tsp. Cream of Tartar-mixed with don't advise, however, one of those market-bakery or freeze-cabinet
1 cup sugar pies. These are very often terrible. Yes, Lemon Meringue Pie is a lot
Now, all set? Remember, this can take hours ... of work, but maybe it's worth it.
1. Turn on oven: 425° PUMPKIN PIE Here's a real tasty number that's almost foolproof,
2. Make pastry.round, fit it into a pan turn back generous one-half and it may well be the least expensive of all pies. You'll need, for a
inch of overhang, and pinch or flute an edge. Prick pastry allover 9 inch pie:
bottom and sides with a table fork (so it won't puff). Set second oven set for 425°
pan on top and press down lightly. The pastry is now between the ample pastry (pie-dough) for 1 crust.
pans; slip this-upside-down-into the center of the oven. In 10 Mix: % cup (packed) brown sugar
minutes turn it over; then begin to check the color of the pastry 1 Tbs. flour J~ tsp. nutmeg
seen at the edges-because in only a couple of more minutes, it's ~~tsp. salt J~ tsp. ginger
all baked. When nicely browned, take from oven; remove top pan, % tsp. cinnamon !~tsp. cloves
let shell cool. 2!~tsp. Pumpkin Pie Spice, OR; !~tsp. mace
3. Make filling in a double boiler. In top part, bring to a near boil:
the water and lemon juice. Mix sugar and cornstarch 'together; a little allspice may be added; all these more or less to taste.
beat egg yolks into sugar, mixing well. Add grated rind to egg-mix. Add, and stir smooth:
Slowly stir this into the liquid (which is over hot water). Let it all 1~ cup canned pumpkin
cook until it thickens and clears. Stir in drop or so of yellow color. n~cup undiluted evaporated canned milk
When thick, remove top from bottom of double boiler and let the 1 slightly beaten egg
pan of filling cool to about lukewarm. Stir in butter thoroughly; 2 Tbs. dark Molasses (or blackstrap)
whip (or beat) mixture a little; pour it into the cold pastry shell. Last, stir in 2 Tbs. melted butter
Let this set until it's quite cold, and filling is nicely set, then we'll
add the meringue. If the filling is not cold when meringue is piled Pour mixture into unbaked pie shell with a moderately high edge.
on the stuff will sweat and get all 'nyah-so cool it! Put into pre-heated oven for 15 minutes at 425°; reduce heat to 325°;
4. Reduce oven heat (or turn it on again) to 375°. bake 30-40 minutes longer. Take from the oven; set pie on rack (or
5. Make meringue. Mix sugar and Cream of Tartar; beat egg whites inverted muffin tin) so that air circulates underneath. If set flat, this
stiff. When the whites begin to peak up, gradually add sugar while type of pie (or pudding-or whatever) will fall flat. Cool pie out of
continuing the beating, until it is all in. Last, add a few drops of a draft. Serve while still just barely warm, or if dinner is to be at six,
lemon extract. Dump the really stiff meringue on top of the cold with dessert maybe due at six-thirty the pumpkin pie comes out of the
filling in the baked pie shell. Spread it right out to the edge of the oven at five-thirty; in the oven at four-thirty; start to put together at
crust; meringue must be anchored to the crust, or the whole glob say, ten after four.

242 243
 ~
surface; dump cake out, browned side up. It should have a slightly
CUSTARD PIE Back there somewhere, we mentioned plain baked rubbery texture; be thin and rollable. Make all the cakes. As they
custard; well, you can make a real dandy Custard Pie by just making cool, they may be piled. Cover with a cloth while preparing the
a raw shell (as for pumpkin pie); then you paint the whole inside of
filling.
the uncooked shell with beaten egg with a very little water. You'd
best then put this into the cold part of the 'fridge and leave it for an CHEESE BLINTZE FILLING Many recipes will say use
hour or so, so that the egg dries on the pastry. The reason for all, this cottage-cheese for this; we disagree. Commercial cottage cheese
operation, is to keep the crust of the custard pie from becoming soggy as it is now packaged and sold, is sadly diluted with sour milk;
as it bakes. Then, make a plain baked custard (directions a few pages to use it, it would have to be put in a sieve and let drain 'til fairly
back) and instead of putting it into cups or a casserole, J\>ourit into juiceless, and it'll still taste like sour milk. Your grocer can get you
the prepared (but still unbaked) pie shell. Lightly dust the top with on order from the dairy, a proper BAKER'S CHEESE, in one,
0
cinnamon and/or nutmeg; it goes into a 400 oven for 10 minutes, three, or five pound packages. This is a dry-ish, uncreamed cottage
then reduce heat to 3250 for 30-40 minutes more. If table knife comes cheese. To this you add just enough sweet cream to soften the
clean at the center of the pie it's done. Cool (propped upl ) before cut- cheese to a usable texture. Or, at Happy House, we are near a fine
ting. The custard pie just out of the oven may look too soft, but it will Italian market; here we buy Italian RICOTTA cheese, which is
set as it cools. (Of course, if it doesn't set, it was too soft and maybe very much the same thing, and is just fine for blintzes. So, with
could be baked again for awhile but with low heat.) This is a good whatever cheese:
way to make a custard pie; there are some other methods, but these 1 rounded Tbs. sugar. (less with ricotta)
are pretty tricky, so we'll forget all about' em here. f~ tsp. ginger
Let's call this enough for pies. Besides, they're fattening, and you f~tsp. vanilla
know what you really want for dessert ... 1(scant) tsp. fine-grated lemon rind
While there are many, many real fancy sweets with which to end optional: 4 Tbs. puffed raisins
a meal, most are out of a sane price and ability range. To fry: J~cup or more butter or oleo, mixed with
However, there are a few real good items, that can usually be 4 Tbs. salad or other vegetable oil
prepared ahead, and aren't too hard to do, and don't really cost too To serve: 1-2 cups sour cream (commercial)
much. One of these is Cheese Blintzes, and once you get the knack 1-2 cups Strawberry preserves
of making the thin pancakes, these can be fun. Lay a pancake flat, browned side up; put about 2 Tbs. of the filling
CHEESE BLINTZES First, you make thin, thin, pancakes, about in center. Fold sides in, like an envelope, then fold over side near-
7 inches in diameter. For the batter for 12 of these: est you and roll the thing up. Easy? Stack the blintzes, with the
seam side down on a platter until serving time. Covered with
1 cup flour, with a good pinch 1cup milk waxed paper or plastic, these will keep in the 'fridge for two or
of mace in it 2 whole eggs, PLUS 2 extra yolks three days. To serve: Heat oleo or butter with oil in a big skillet
~~tsp. salt 2 Tbs. melted butter (like a chicken fryer). When fat is quite hot, put in three or four
7; tsp. sugar of the blintzes. Brown lightly on all sides, and cook at least long
enough to heat the filling through. Take from fat and drain on
Mix thoroughly, with the butter in last. Let stand at room temper- a paper towel on a large pan. Put these, as you fry more, into a
ature for a half hour or so before using. Heat to fairly hot (you'll 200 oven to keep warm until the rest are fried. Serve 2 or 3
0

have to experiment here if you've never made crepes) a round- blintzes for a serving, with side dishes of the sour cream -and the
sided fry-pan (or sautoir) or a small skillet with slanting sides. preserves handy. These are a really wonderful dessert; they may
The pan should be about 7 inches diameter. Grease a piece of rag be served as the main dish for a light lunch, with a small fruit
or paper-towel; brush lightly over bottom of pan with this. At salad.
once pour in just enough batter (about 2 Tbs.), which, when CAKES Let's gas awhile about baking a cake, if you really feel
swirled around will just cover the bottom very thinly. Set pan
that you must. We still advocate that small bakery where they'll prob-
back on heat; let fry about 1 minute, 'til pancake is just set and
ably do a much better job, at half the cost. But, just to talk about it,
is lightly browned on the bottom. Have a cloth spread on a nearby
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 we must consider commegcia]
cake mixes; with these - and a level tsp. of Baking Powder. To the water a ~ tsp. of flavoring, vanilla
some luck - home cake-baking for the chocolate, devil's food, spice mixes, lemon or almond to white
is not such a problem these or yellow cakes.
days. However, few of these Grease the loaf-pan on bottom and sides, and then line with paper.
pre-fabricated items result in We simply cut open a paper bag from the grocer's, and centering the
the kind of cake one fondly pan, cut the paper sort of in the shape of a Maltese Cross, the~ fit this
imagines Mom used to bake. into the greased pan. Then we brush the paper with grease (or oil) and
Frankly, those old-fashioned lightly flour it to coat the paper. We find that this extra keeps cakes
ingredients such as eggs, but- from scorching, and makes for an even surface on bottom and sides.
ter, cream, etc., are just too The beaten batter goes in on top of the prepared paper to fill a little
costly to put into a package over half the pan; quickly into a 3750 oven (preheated) and bake for
mix, even after processing. just a little longer than it says on the package. This means 5 to 8 min-
That wonderfully light and utes longer, or until the cake tests done with a broom straw. (If the
beautifully iced home - made straw, pushed down into the center of the cake, comes out dry, the
cake of your daddy's day, cake is done. )
would cost two or three dollars The amateur baker must bear in mind that altitude can make a
to make today; they sure as difference in baking times; so can excessive humidity. Also, you must
hell don't put that much good- not move furniture around the kitchen, or do any entrechats or other
ies in a .29 package. (As a jumping or bumping, while the cake is in the oven, or it will probably
matter of fact, the goodies you can get for two or three dollars are fall flat. This ain t good.
often not all they should be. Maybe it's inflation, if that's the word ... ) Taken out of the oven, the cake is inverted on a cloth on a rack;
So, if it's cake you want we are serious in advising a trip to that little the paper peels off easily. After the loaf is nearly cold, set it right-
bakery; it won't really be cheap, but it'll (usually) be a much better side-up on a platter or plate, and ice it. A handy frosting mix costs .15
cake than you can whip up. What the hell, girl, you can probably do for a 9 oz. package; we use half of this and simply mix it with a couple
some things the baker can t dol of tablespoons of very hot water. (We use coffee for chocolate icing.)
And, this is not a recommendation for those packaged, assembly- This ices the top of the loaf cake and that's enough. This nice loaf
line cakes sold in many big markets; these taste mediocre at best; are costs a total .27; and is really pretty easy to put together.
of always dubious freshness, and they ain't cheap, either. Incidentally, a couple of hints as we think of them: If a glass loaf
One more argument against apartment baking of cakes; you'll need pan (or other glass utensil) is used for any baking, use slightly lower
bowls, pans, whips, racks, mixers, cloths, scales, an oven that can be heat; in this case we would set oven at 3300 instead of 3700 if using
regulated to a degree, and considerable work space. With all this a glass pan. Also, unless you have a proven-reliable heat thermostat
thrown in to discourage a reader, we'll detail a couple of unusual cakes on your oven, you'll have to get an oven thermometer to be sure of
here, come what may. As for more standard formulas, every magazine, temperatures.
paper, and hundreds of books are full of 'em. There are hundreds of not-too-sweet cakes that are best prepared
as a loaf; many have added fruit or nuts; some are so unsweet, they
LOAF CAKES Easiest to make are Loaf Cakes, and these can be are called breads. One such is a: 0
handily done with prepared cake mixes. Here again, your cake is liable FOUR FRUIT BREAD (I loaf pan 5~ x 9~ x 2~"): Set oven 350
to be about as good as it costs. Commercial packaged mixes run from 2 cups sifted All-purpose flour ~£cup currants or raisins
.15 to .45, and may also vary in weight from 9 oz. to 19 oz., and require % cup'sugar (chopped)
one or two eggs. A medium small loaf pan may measure (at the top) ~ tsp. mace ~~cup cut-up dates (or figs,
4~ x 8~ x 2Jt" (at least some of ours do!) We buy a 9 oz. package of a 3 tsp. Baking Powder or dried apricots)
certain mix; add I egg according to directions, plus a half _cup_0£ water. ~~tsp. salt 2 eggs, beaten
And-not according to directions-we always sneak into all cake mixes, 1 tsp. grated lemon-rind 3 Tbs. melted shortening
1 cup mashed banana
246
247
 Sift together: flour, sugar, mace, B.P., salt. Add rind, currants or seem quite thin. This is okay. Pour into prepared pan, and put
raisins, dates or other fruit. Mix thoroughly but lightly. Mix to- into preheated oven. Bake at 325 ° for 25-35 minutes or until cake
gether eggs, shortening, and mashed (or sieved) banana. Add is fully risen and straw tests clean. Take out of oven; invert onto
this to dry ingredients.rand stir lightly and quickly together. We towel in one hand, remove pan. If cake is to be used at once,
found that a wooden salad fork does this mixing nicely; (it always remove paper at once (it's better without it). Set cake flat on
helps to have just the right tool.) Mix just enough to blend well. towel on a wire rack; cool for few minutes; cut with very sharp,
Turn into a greased 9~ x 5~~x 2%" loaf pan. Bake at 350° (325° thin knife. If the cake is to be held for later use, leave paper on
for a glass pan) for 45-50 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes; then take part not used, turning paper up over cut side. Then wrap com-
out of pan, set to coolon cloth-covered rack; cover loaf with pletely cooled cake in waxed paper; put away in tightly covered
light cloth, If made before dinner time, this bread is extra yummy cakebox.
when served slightly warm. To make this a little more festive, This is really generous for 2 or 3; we suggest 2 pans for 4 or more.
ice when warm with a plain confectioner's icing. Use about 6 Tbs. Goes real well with any outdoor cookout or things like that. And this
of XXXX Powdered (confectioner's sugar; add 2 drops vanilla, is so easy that even the kids can do it. (Kids are doing more and
lemon, or almond to 2 Tbs. boiling water. Stir into sugar (sifted)
more, these days!)
to make a loose icing; pour over bread top and spread. This loaf PINEAPPLE COFFEE CAKE This is an absurdly simple, and
makes a nice bit for that coffee break, too. Try it!
quite inexpensive coffee cake; could be served as a simple dessert,
A very nice and very inexpensive dessert, and one easy to put
too. Real tasty, right out of the oven. You'll need an 8 or 9 inch square
together, is GINGERBREAD. This can be easily slapped together
pan, greased. Set oven at 400° and you're off.
just before a meal, and served hot and spicy right out of the oven at
the end of the meal. Our favorite recipe is low on calories and on cost. 1 #2 can crushed pineapple J~ cup (4 level Tbs.) sugar
We have figured a 4 portion pan costs less than .30. Of course, you % cup juice from canned ~~cup brown sugar (packed
mad decorator types would probably goop this all up with whipped pineapple down)
cream and candied violets, (at least!) to serve. Well! Have you con- 2 cups Biscuit Mix sprinkle of nutmeg and/or
sidered, lately, just trying it the simple old-fashioned way? 1 egg cinnamon
So, and without further ado our prize recipe for OLD FASHIONED Drain pineapple and set aside. Mix % cup of the can juice with
GINGERBREAD: First, preheat oven to 325° Use a pan 8 x 8 x 2". 2 cups biscuitmix. Stir in 1 egg. ~ cup of sugar. Pour this mixture
Grease pan, line with heavy paper, grease-then flour-the paper. Put into greased pan. Cover top evenly with drained pineapple. Sprin-
pan in the 'fridge while mixing the cake. In a bowl, mix: kle with brown sugar, then cinnamon and/or nutmeg. Bake at
400° for 25-35 minutes. Best served at once. Real easy, real good.
1 tsp. cinnamon J~ tsp. soda
1 tsp. (or more) ginger H cup flour (all-purpose) Serves 3 or 4.
~~tsp. (or more) cloves 1tsp. Baking Powder What would our little nest be without a nice piece of fruit cake?
~ tsp. salt (Oh, quiet you! Stop that snickering!) Of thousands of fruitcake
recipes, this seems one of the easiest; comes out nice, too.
In a second bowl, mix to creamy: QUICK & EASY FRUIT CAKE Use 9 x 5 x 3" loaf pan (or slightly
]~cup shortening (4 level Tbs.) OR J~ cup sugar (4 level Tbs.) smaller. Grease and flour pan, add paper, grease and flour that. Set
!~cube oleo) oven at 325°.
Pour over this: 1 package Date Bar Mix (the kind H tsp. Pumpkin Pie Spices.
that has a filling) OR 1 tsp. cinnamon, J~tsp.
!~cup dark Molasses-into which
you have stirred (another) J~ tsp. soda ;S cup hot water nutmeg, J~tsp. allspice
3 eggs grated rind of 1 orange, 1
Mix to light with sugar-shortening. Measure out % cup boiling ~4cup (4 level Tbs.) flour lemon
water. Now mix the dry stuff and the hot water alternately into % tsp. Baking Powder 1 cup broken walnuts
the molasses mixture, beating each addition in well. Last, stir in 2 Tbs. molasses 1 cup chopped, candied fruit
a beaten egg; beat with spoon for a minute or so. The batter will 1 cup raisins
248 249
 This packaged mix will be in two parts, mix and filling. Combine stiff whites, gradually, while continuing to beat steadily. Fold in
the date filling with hot water in a large bowl. Add the crumbly the almonds lightly. Grease very lightly a flat baking pan-or
mix, eggs, Baking Powder, molasses, spices. Cut up the fruits, nuts, cookie sheet-with butter (or oleo). Dust very lightly with flour,
raisins, rinds; mix lightly with the flour. Fold fruit, etc. into mix- blowing off excess. Lay spoonfuls of the mixture in 4 inch long,
blend well. Pour into prepared pan. Bake 80 minutes (or more) narrow rows or ribbons. Bake at 325 for 15-20 minutes. Cool 3
0

or until toothpick or straw comes out of center clean. Cool; wrap minutes; take off pan, laying on waxed paper. Cool thoroughly,
in foil; store 2-3 days before cutting. Baking times will vary con- then store in air-tight can. These are made and handled very
siderably and unaccountably with size and shape of pan-so just much like lady-fingers; it figures ...
shove it into the oven-and when it tests done-snatch it out.
After the cake is cooled, it may be glazed, which'Il make it HOT BREADS This bit will include (briefly!) something about
look better. Bring ~ cup light com syrup, and 2 Tbs. of water to hot rolls, biscuits, muffins, and the like, and a very little about making
a rolling boil. Cool, and pour this over the cake. At Happy House, a loaf of bread. As has been repeatedly said here, baking can require
we follow this recipe exactly, except that we substitute some lots of time, and quite a variety of equipment, and-in particular-a
heavy bodied cheap wine (sherry, tokay, angelica, muscatel) for reliable oven. Unquestionably, a home-baker can turn out a variety
the hot water; and when glazing, we use brandy instead of water. of baked things, that may be as good or even better than bought ones;
After about a week, wrapped tightly, and in an air-tight can, this they'll usually cost quite a bit more, too ...
cake slices up something sensational. It's not exactly cheap-but
it's a real goody. It keeps well, too (if properly hiddenl ) MIXES There are now mixes for almost every baked item; by
mixing 5 cents worth of flour, with 5 cents worth of salt, dry-fats, and
As noted here before, there are a million cake and baked-goods baking powder, you would have a prepared biscuit mix that would
recipes; we still advise that you buy the stuff in a small neighborhood cost at least 20 cents in the grocer's. (This is big business, and the
bakery. buyer gets itl ) However, these prepared products are handy, usually
COOKIES We'll add a kind word about cookies: they're nice to reliable and most are very adaptable. America's best known biscuit mix
have on hand. In the store, market, or bakery, they'll cost from about now issues a pamphlet of about 50 recipes using the product; all are
.35 to .45 a dozen. To make at home, they'll probably cost a bit more pretty sensible. Using this basic mixture, simple additions make hot
than this; so why bother? The ones at that neighborhood bakery are cakes, muffins, shortbreads, coffee cakes, etc. Undoubtedly handy to
fresh and often real good. You can much more profitably spend the have around. So, let's throw in here a standard, basic biscuit mix; we
time with a good book, or in a bubble-bath, or doing what comes un- make up a big jar, and always have it on hand. Costs about twice as
naturally. So, with all this, we'll just throw in one cookie recipe here: much in the package.
a number very popular with those rough trade bullfighters in Spain. BASIC BISCUIT MIX (This small amount makes about 15 bis-
These are called Dados de Hada or Fairy Fingers (a real natural for 0
cuits.) Set oven at 450 (or slightly less), bake biscuits 12-15'
this encyclopedia) : minutes.
3 oz. sugar 2 egg whites 2 cups sifted flour (all-purpose, or bread flour, NOT cake or
!~cup water few grains of salt pastry flour)
1 Tbs. very strong coffee pinch Cream of Tartar 3 tsp. Baking Powder 2 Tbs. (level) instant dry milk
(OR: use 1 Tbs. instant 2 oz. blanched almonds ~~tsp. salt 4 Tbs. (level) shortening
coffee in !~cup + 1 Tbs. chopped fine OR coarse 1 tsp. sugar optional: a pinch of mace
hot water; dissolve, then almond meal
work in sugar to make the Mix all the dry ingredients together; cut in the cold shortening
syrup) with knives or a pastry blender 'til all is of coarse meal consistency.
Store in large tight-topped jar, away from heat, but not necessar-
Make thick syrup with water and sugar; add coffee, or use instant ily in 'fridge. This mix is used in any prepared biscuit mix recipe,
as suggested above. Beat whites very, very stiff, adding salt and by addition of % cup cold water to a little over 2)~cups of the mix-
Cream of Tartar. Pour the somewhat cooled syrup into the very ture. Stir water in quickly; pat dough out lightly onto lightly
250 251
 floured board or pastry cloth, to about 1 inch thick. Cut biscuits. do take some little time to thaw and raise. These are better at least
Place on any lightly greased pan or sheet; if close together they'll than the tasteless, air-filled, assemblyline breads that seem to be that
rise higher, otherwise about 2-3 inches apart. Brush tops with a market standard these days.
little plain milk, or with diluted evaporated milk; this browns tops CORNBREAD goes with many things; is quick and easy to make.
nicely. Knead and/or handle dough as little as possible; it may for a 9" x 9" pan, set oven 375°_400° or heat a heavy iron skillet; put
make it tough. Dough should be sorta soft,-just firm enough to in some bacon fat and let it get hot. Pour cornbread mix right into this;
lift into pan. set into oven at once; bake 'til done. This is real country-style and very
A trick we learned in Canada: instead of cutting rounds, then flavorful. The mix:
re-rolling scraps for a second cutting, just pat dough out into a
square; with a very sharp knife cut across then down. Your biscuits 1 cup cornmeal (we prefer yel- 1 cup milk
are square but no second-rolling is called for. Cute, huh? low) 1 egg
1 cup flour % tsp. salt
BISCUIT VARIETIES With a little good sense and some imagi- J~cup (or less) sugar 2 Tbs. melted shortening (may
nation, a hundred or more varieties of biscuits may be fashioned by 5 tsp. Baking Powder be oleo, butter, bacon fat,
simply adding something to the Basic Mix. Added grated cheese makes pinch Mace (optional) etc.)
a cheese biscuit and grated American cheese is only one kind; grated
Italian or Swiss make entirely different-tasting varieties. Fresh or dried Mix dry ingredients well; add milk and egg, beat well. Add short-
herbs make tasty biscuits; chopped crisp bacon or ham make hearty ening, beat in. Pour into pan (see above); bake about 20 minutes
ones. A little instant onion, or even some minced fresh onion, makes in medium hot oven. Test for done with toothpick or broomstraw.
nice biscuits. What the hell, girl! Use ya imagination! When done cut and serve at once.
SHORTBREAD We make a nice Old-Fashioned Shortbread or And simply to make our Boston cousins happy and because it's so
shortcake byadding to 2J~cups biscuit mix 4 oz. (4 level Tbs.) of quick easy to make, there's a somewhat unusual recipe for OLD FASH-
oats, which we chop up a little with a sharp knife; then toss in an IONED BOSTON BROWN BREAD (in a new-fashioned sort of way).
additional 2 Tbs. sugar. A full cup of cold water (with perhaps just Of course, those Boston belles are raised on the stuff, and will tell you
a bit more) seems to make a fine shortbread for berry and fruit short- that the true 'O.F.' recipe calls for much steaming and other such
cakes. (Fattening as hell, too!) carryings-on. We prefer our steaming at the Baths! This modem brown
bread is simply baked in old tin cans and is real tasty, as is many a
HOT CAKES. By adding 1 beaten egg to 2~ cups of the basic mix, quick trick done in a can ...
with ~ cup of water we have a real fine hotcake mix or batter. All sorts
of things-in turn-can be added to this. 2 cups graham or whole-wheat 1tsp. salt
flour 2 cups buttermilk
MUFFINS With one beaten egg, ~ cup water, J~ tsp. vanilla (op- J~cup all-purpose flour J~cup molasses
tional), we have a good standard muffin mix. Adding J~ cup fine yellow 2 tsp. Baking Soda 1cup seedless raisins
cornmeal to 2 cups of the mix, plus 1 egg, and 1 cup water-we have Combine all ingredients, mix well. Spoon into 3 well-greased #303
a fine CORN MUFFIN mix. (We also toss a ~ cup of drained canned cans, to ~ full. Let stand for half an hour; then bake at 350° _360°
com, and about a Tbs. of bacon grease into these. This will make Jim for 45-50 minutes, or until straw shoved down through center
smack his lips! comes out clean. Let cool before slicing; will keep well in can if
open end is plastic wrapped and secured with rubberband. This
OTHER PREPARATIONS Very fine rolls, biscuits, etc. also come
in pressurized cans, in the market freezers. You just open the thing, put bread is best sliced thinly.
'em on a pan, and bake. Very handy, and not too expensive; about a We feel that this is enough baking for our compact cook. If you
penny for a biscuit or roll. just MUST get something into your old, hot oven-well, you should
While we're at this, you can also buy prepared (that is made and know what to do about it by now.
shaped; some even in pans) rolls and breads made from yeast bases.
These you just thaw and bake; and they're pretty good, though they +

252 253
 d-.~Gl
~
P ~
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
(j>Q
~ ), ~ b, Drunks and Drinks
~
t-- e, )7
tel ~

~~y~&>'t,J~P
~ t>I> ..r.~
Coffee
~~
).. ~ ~ Q? Tea
Iced Tea & Coffee
<Q1<-J tl.
-~ ~ \ Milk
Instant Milk
Cream
Beer
"Hard Stuff"
Tequilla
Rum
Sake
Liquets
Part Two:
WINES
classes of wines:
d " Appetizer
e Red Table Wines
White Table Wines
Sweet Dessert Wines
Sparkling Wines
Sherry
Champagne
etc.

255
 THIRTEEN
(.-c..:••:••:•.:••).).)t)t:-( ••:.-:.-:-:••:•••••:••).).)( ••:••:•.,..:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••,..:••:•.:..:••:••:••:••:••:••).).: ••:••:..•:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:••:• .:••)

Well, kiddies, here we go on the home stretch, with a few words

about beverages, and a mad bit on wines. Then, we'll have it made,
and we hope it doesn't take you all that time!
By this point, readers who have patiently waded through the whole
bit, will have picked up many little household hints, that will positively
make them the Queen of the Kitchen, whether man, woman, child or
just undecided. (Some awfully young ones are getting into the act,
these days. )
Let's take a quick look at things to drink ...
COFFEE Nothing-well, almost nothing-is so dandy as a good
cup of coffee; it warms you, refreshes you, and gives you a chance to
get acquainted with that stray pickup without investing $6.00 on a
bottle. Also, coffee-making and serving is suited to the compact kitchen
facility; it only needs a single burner, and takes less than 10 minutes
I. to get together. First, let's say a discouraging word for instant coffee:
UGH! This type brew may save a few minutes, but it makes the cup
of whatever it is twice as costly as real coffee, and that is expensive
enough. You will note that there is rarely any aroma from a cup of
this stuff, and aroma is one of the finer features of a satisfactory cup
of coffee.
257
 While we're on this down cycle (quiet, Mame ) let's not buy any teas and their making. An orange-pekoe seems to be the American
cheap, bargain coffee; it's usually no bargain. Get a standard good standard, and here again you get about what you pay for. Also, tea
brand, and make the coffee properly, an' ya gotta good cuppa java. bags are handy to use, but they certainly don't make as satisfactory
Much has been written about coffee-preparation methods; it can be a cup of the stuff as bulk tea. Basic teas are either green or black; we
dripped, filtered, steamed, boiled, perked-and so on. Instead of going won't attempt to go into that here either, except to say that green
into all these, let's just see how we do it at Happy House; people come teas make a paler brew, though with a fine, delicate flavor. (We like
from miles around, just for our coffee. (Well, that's what they sayl ) a Chinese spiderleg-a natural green tea; but it is very hard to find.)
First, we've got a big gallon glass jar that mayonnaise or pickles As with coffees, almost all teas are blends of several; the standard
came in; it has a tight screw top. In the jar we put two pounds of orange-pekoes may vary in strength and flavor, but only to a proper
regular grind coffee of some standard brand. From a large market or tea connoisseur. Of course, some ladies go in for the teas with the
from an Italian store, we put a pound of Italian roast (or French roast) aromatic spices and blossom flavors; well, if you like that sort of thing
coffee. We try to get this in a standard, regular grind; if not available -okay! Few male "guests" will appreciate them, Mary.
we'll take a drip grind; never a powdered grind. This, incidentally, is To make tea is really simple; use a heavy earthenware pot; fill it
called Expresso Coffee on some la- full of hot water to warm the pot while the actual water for the tea
bels. We add this dark-brown coffee is coming to a rapid boil on the stove. Put the water on to boil while
to our two pounds of regular in the measuring out your bulk tea. We use two slightly rounded (just over
big glass jar, and shake it up (mix level) teaspoonsful for three large cups of tea. However, teas and
it, silly), and that's our coffee. tastes vary; a hard and fast rule is not possible. Put the measured tea
We use a heavy, white, enamel into a small dish-or even into an empty tea-cup; if there seems to be
coffee percolator. We clean this pot a lot of "dust" or very fine tea in it, you had better dro{J the dry tea
thoroughly after each use. Experts into a fine strainer, allowing this dust to shake away; we'll just use the
say you must start coffee with cold good leaves.
water; we see no reason why, it When the water is actually at a rolling boil on the stove, quickly
takes twice as long that way. We dump the warming water out of the pot; put the tea into the pot; take
use hot water from the tap, and fill the pot to the stove, and quickly pour in the desired amount of boiling
the pot just to the bottom of the water. (An old, old, old bit goes: "Take the pot to the water-never
basket. (There's that magic word the water to the pot" Hmmm! Some type Elizabethan humor?) Put the
again.) Into the basket we put one heaped teaspoonful of the coffee lid on the teapot; let the tea stand or "steep" for four to five minutes,
for each cup to be made, and add one extra. By "heaped" we mean then pour the stuff out into cups and have at it. We use a small silver
all you can get on the spoon. With the lid down, we put the pot to tea-ball, a gadget of pierced metal about the size of an egg; the dry
a fairly high flame, reducing this slightly as the coffee begins to perk. tea goes into this, the gadget goes into the warmed pot with the boiling
We let the coffee perk hard for a full three minutes, turn off the heat water, and we don't have to use a strainer between pot and cup when
and pour. We think it is delicious coffee. Yes, we've got a fancy electric pouring. Without this, you'll need a small tea-strainer to get a nice
percolator around the house; in fact, we often serve coffee from it. clear and clean cup of tea.
But we make the coffee in the heavy enamel pot in the kitchen. Serving tea sometimes presents some problems: some like lemon
If the percolator of coffee is to stand for any time, remove the with it, some sugar, some cream, some milk, and some just want a cup
basket of coffee-grounds as soon as it has all dripped down-about of coffee. Well, that's tea for you; you can develop a taste for it; even
three minutes after taking from fire. The coffee left in the pot-without acquire some knowledge of famed blends, types, etc. We only add that
the basket of grounds-may be quickly reheated if desired. This method some of these famed blends cost as much as $5.00 a pound-and that
makes a fine, aromatic, full-bodied cup of coffee, that seems to be liked makes for an expensive cup of tea. Who needs it?
by all; in fact-thinking about it, we may concede that some of our ICED TEA & COFFEE Iced tea is real dandy in summertime,
visitors do just come for the coffee! particularly when a look in the mirror reminds you that beer is fatten-
ing. There are especially strong and full bodied blends on the market
TEA Here again we must say that much has been written about just for iced tea. Or make real strong tea as above and let it get cold.
259
258
Don't refrigerate it while it's even warm as this will cause it to become Made in the evening, the morning result is a cold drink (almost) indis-
cloudy. Pour this cold tea over ice cubes in a tall glass; add, as you tinguishable from the regularly bottled milk. Without these homey
wish, sugar, mintleaves, lemon, vodka, tequila, etc. In fact-using some measuring devices, we suggest about 4J~to one (4J~ cups water to 1 cup
of these items-the tea may be omitted completely. . crystals; as this will make just over a quart, we would suggest 2J~-3
Similarly, strong fresh coffee can be cooled, then poured over the Tbs. canned milk. One other little bit; while milk made of dry-milk
ice cubes; also sugared, creamed, or with a large dollop of Puerto Rican crystals is fine after standing for about 10 hours; it rapidly deteriorates
rum instead of the cream to make a very refreshing summertime drink. after about 20. From this point on it's unpotable.
MILK It seems sorta silly to have a piece here about milk. What CREAM To take the natural milk bit just a bit farther, and to
the hell's so exciting about the stuff? Well, nothing really, unless you explain it to those naive souls who "just don't know" or for those who
choose to remember the useful containers some of it comes in! Lotsa are a leetle scrawny, and would like to get a little fat in the best places,
people are drinking milk these days, it is undoubtedly healthy and there are two basic processes of commercial whole milk; homogenized,
nutritious. It is also considerably cheaper than gin. where the cream will not separate from the bulk of the milk; and pas-
On the other hand, milk as a customary beverage must be near the teurized, with the thick cream rising to the top of the bottle (or con-
top of that "Kiss of Death" dieter's list; it's undeniably fattening. Also, tainer). A little richer than these is 'extra-rich' milk; next richer is
compared to coffee and tea, that homogenized and/or pasteurized stuff 'half & half (supposedly half cream; half milk); then coffee-cream and
is a little costly. Even skim-milk, (now politely called non-fat) is pretty table cream. There is very little difference-except in price-in these
emasculated stuff, and it too ain't cheap. last three, all are actually thinned cream. Then comes whipping cream
and extra heavy whipping cream for an extra-heavy price. Next stop-
INSTANT MILK However, there's some hope in view for the assumedly-is butter! And there you have all that's fit to print about
confirmed milk users in the newly-developed instant dry milk crystals.
the creams you love so well.
(Don't look back to that hitch in the service 20 years ago, when they
gave you that powdered milk-and-water; things have improved since BEER We'll just snootily by-pass all those innocuous ades.colas,
then. As a matter of fact, properly put together, the current dry-milk and such-like soft drinks that are rarely thirst-quenching and can only
crystals can make a drink that many people cannot tell from real fresh serve to clutter up the icebox. This leads us to that prince among light
milk. Properly put together, this milk-form offers a 'non-fat' milk drink refreshments-beer. We all have our favorite brands, for one reason or
that costs less than a dime a quart, and-to repeat-is often not discern- another, and all the good ones cost about the same. There are many
able from real milk. 'touted' cheap beers (on "sale" in liquor, drug stores and markets;
So how? For cooking purposes: put 3 just-rounded tablespoons of they are seldom good; in fact, they should be put back into the horse
the dry-milk crystals into a deep measuring cup; fill cup to % full of from which they came. Experts say that the cheapest way to buy the
water. (Of course this is a one-cup cup sillyl ): stir together with fork standard good beers, is in the quart bottles.
or spoon, then fill cup to completely full with water. This makes a cup However delightful the beer may be (and it is undeniably fattening,
of rich reconstructed milk, to be used at once in sauces or any cooking dammit! ), in this country the brew will be under 4%alcohol by volume.
purpose. Just remember, there is no fat in it, so butter or other fat in In Canada it may be as much as 13%alcohol; even more than this is
any recipe will have to be added. some of the great Australian stouts. Don't rush out to buy some "Cana-
A little more care is needed to make the stuff fit to drink with any dian," Gert; it is all cut down to our national tolerance (by law) for
enjoyment. Use a glass like a delmonico fruit juice glass (this is also import into this country, as are ALL foreign beers, ales, stouts. These
the size they pack all those popular cheese spreads in) as a measure. things all add up to some of the reasons why-here at Happy House-
Fill this-heaping-with the dry milk crystals; dumI? it into a quart we prefer a light wine as a cooler and refresher. Properly served, it has
mason jar (we even add an extra pinch ... but, that s us; live it up!). fewer calories than beer and far more alcohol. Even the dry wines,
Fill jar half full of cold water; then shake it up a bit, to dissolve all the (non-sweet) are at least 12% by volume; champagne-(it may shock
crystals that might be stuck on the bottom. Add 2 Tbs. canned milk you to find)-is about 11% by volume; and the heavier sweet wines
(evaporated); this will give the drink body and color. Finish filling are as much as 23% by volume alcohol. However, all wines-cheap or
the jar with cold water; screw top on, and put away in the 'fridge for expensive-make wonderful drinks mixed with soda, good ginger-ale,
at least 10 hours. The stuff HAS to sit this long to "marry" (we're told). etc. Mixed half and half-(like a dry white wine such as a Reisling,
260 261
mixed with good soda water )-you will have a long, refreshing drink hand two or three brands of Puerto Rican rums from light to dark
called a Spritzer; cool and delightful, and still containing more alcohol in color and flavor. And of course no rum bash is complete without
-(if that's what it takes)-than a little amount of beer. Or, if you use some black Jamaica; this is often called a Demerara-type rum, and is
a very dry sherry (23%) with half soda and ice, you again have a fine strong stuff. Jamaican rums are age-indicated by daggers; one dagger
drink that is almost 12%alcohol-and these can creep up on you, too. is 5 years old; 3 dagger rum is 15 years old, etc. Almost all of these
Besides being stronger alcoholically, the wines bought in half-gallon are over 94 proof. And-there is an O.P. (for overproof) rum, of several
or gallon bottles are much, much cheaper than beer, and take far less brands that is 151 proof. This is a fine mixer, but it shore ain't to be
storage room. trifled with. A tsp. in a cup of fresh, hot tea is a wonderful winter drink.
Of course, there's nothing like that old (but good!) line: "Let's go Or, there's the sake thing! Get out that old kimono, lay in a stock
up to my place for a beer." Take it from there. of incense, hire some sake cups and bottles from a Japanese caterer and
buy several gallons of sake. (Actually, gallon containers are very hard
THE HARD STUFF To get right down to it, it's very often the to find in this country, but half-gallon bottles are in almost any Japanese
cost of the stuff that greatly determines what kind of liquor you'll store. While the stuff is not exactly cheap (figure about a quart or a
serve to guests. At Happy House, we do have a few bottles of goodies quart and a half per guest, you will find that it will cost a great deal
stashed away, (hidden-and under lock and keyl }, for casual enter- less in a Japanese grocery store than in your neighborhood liquor store.
taining, we offer beer and light wines. These are cheap and filling, So, ya find the Japanese section of whatever city you're in, locate a
and a few won't affect the performance-the guest's or ours! grocery and buy your sake. Almost any sake that is imported to this
However, there's always that P-elegant trull who wants to booze country is good.
it up and has the loot. Well, there's certainly lots to choose from; all Also, with the sake bit, lay in a lot of things to eat, small munchies
we' can say, is-whether it's whiskey (any type) or gin, vodka, brandy, particularly. Japanese boozers insist that you cannot get drunk on
liqueurs.e-if they're good, they're expensive; and if they are of lesser sake if you eat steadily as you drink, and they prefer to nibble at dried
cost and quality-they're seldom good. Our advice-perfected through tiny shrimp. (So do we, but it took a little time to get the idea.) Of
the many years-is to be a "one thing" drinker; the one thing being course, ya wanna be real elegant (and make the most of the opportuni-
something like rum, tequila, sake-or even sherry. Have nothing else ties offered) get a lot of simple, inexpensive men's kimonos (called
in the house except this one beverage, and-if you like-serve it forth yukatas) and insist that each guest strip and be fitted to the light Japa-
in many ways. Take tequilla, for example. Like most imports, some is nese robe, as he joins the party. You may even have a party before
good, some is terrible; a good deal depends on what you pay for it. you get to the sake ... One other thing about sake; it is a "creeper-
If you must drink tequila, Jose Cuervo is considered the best make upper" type drink. The stuff is heated (in the kitchen) and poured
that is exported from Mexico. (Real crazy down there . . . one of the into those cute little bottles, which are set into a pan of hot water to
finest brandies in the world is made in Mexico-in Saltillo-called keep hot-with an inverted sake cup over the bottle to keep in the
Madero, and none is exported!) Back to Tequila: .it's a fine (soul aroma (and the alcohol). Plan on one cup for each guest, as well as
scorching) drink straight, or with that crazy lemon or lime and salt one bottle and a few extra. The guest is served with a cup and a bottle
routine. We know some mad, mad people who drink straight tequila of the hot wine; after a few cups, he will invariably say something like:
with chilled champagne for a chaser; hangovers are in Technicolor, and "Don't get what you see in this stuff, has absolutely no effect on me."
with a wide-wide screen. There are many standard tequila cocktails Very, very shortly after this, he'll be with it. Sake can be awfully
such as a Daisy, Sunrise, Margarita-and so on. We like one put out damned deceptive. And the morning-after is too much! But, it's all fun,
years ago by a bartender in Balboa, Calif., which he called a Tecalote and we almost hesitate to mention it here, but Japanese claim that sake
(Owl). Stirred up like a Martini-a jigger tequila, jigger good brandy, is-to some extent-an aphrodisiac. On a sake binge, you are with it,
dash Angostura bitters. Stir with ice, strain into cocktail glass. Not a and stay with it!
sweet drink and deceptively mild. (As a matter of fact, this tastes some-
what like diluted coca-colal ) It is definitely a "creeper-upper" type LIQUEURS This liqueurs thing can make for some really elegant
drink. entertaining, but Oil, expensive! Some of these fine sippin' drinks are
Or do the rum bit. Have a party and lay in some Bacardi; white, not too contrived or nauseous; we think the very best of 'em all for
gold, and the Porto Rican aneta (old) rum by Bacardi. Also have on after a meal or as a nightcap is 5 star Metaxa brandy. This is like noth-

262 263
 ing you've ever tasted before (and undoubtedly many of you have 1. Appetizer Wines 4. Sweet Dessert Wines
tasted largely and widely). Metaxa is just sensational. But, Metaxa is 2. Red Table Wines 5. Sparkling Wines
for one (two at the most) straight drinks; not to sit down and chug-a- 3. White Table Wines
lug the bottle. A fifth costs about $9.00 and a little properly taken goes
a long way. It is worth the price. Some claim that Metaxa is a stimu-
Almost all wines fall into one of these classes. Differences of the
lant. We don't know about that; but it's a helluva fine drink. Try it-
grapes used, or blendings, or of the winemaker's whim with names,
go into a good bar and get a shot. Ask the bartender-he'll agree;
Metaxa is the most! make the individual bottle and its name. Here again, we can somewhat
reduce this maze of names, classes, and types. We have "generic"
names, and "varietal" names. Generic names are usually of geopraphic
WINES We are not omitting wines in this chapter, simply saving origin, some merely of long usage for a particular wine. Burgundy,
the best for the last. Almost anyone will agree that wine is the best food Claret, Rhine Wine, Sauternes, Sherry, Champagne, etc. are generic
accompaniment; while Americans are drinking more and more wines names, just as French bread and Swiss cheese are. Varietal names indi-
each year, many do not because of a lot of silly notions about it. Just cate that over 50% of the wine is made from that grape variety; such
don't believe much of what you've heard about wine-drinking. In the as Zinfandel, made from the Zinfandel grape; Muscatel made from
second part of this chapter we'll set all this straight. (It'll be the only the Muscat grape; Reisling is made grom a Reisling grape, and so with
time we tried to do that!) Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Grenache, etc.
In civilized communities everywhere in the world, wine is the To take this a little farther: Traminer, Sylvaner, Reisling, etc. are
natural accompaniment to a fine meal. So, let's try some wine with our varietal names of different Rhine Wines. The varietal names indicate
meals or as an appetizer or dessert; or just to perk up the cooking. the grapes used; Rhine Wine is a generic name for wines of this type.
And, at once, let's make another thing clear; folks with youngsters Similarly, Burgundy and Claret are generic names of types of red
to feed should know that in wine cookery, the alcohol evaporates at wines. Gamay, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Grignolino, Zinfandel, etc. are
174°F; this is even before water will boil, (212°F). Heat leaves only names indicating the variety of grapes in bottlings of red wines with
the delicious wine flavors, and wine-cooked foods are thus suitable for these names.
the whole family. Of course, the old country folk give their remarkably A Rose (pronounced ro-zay) wine is a generic name indicating a
healthy kids wine; diluted at first with water, but wine almost as soon type (pink-colored) of moderately dry-to-sweet wine; a Grenache, or a
as they are off the, er ... bottle. Grenache Rose, shows that the wine was made mainly of Grenache
Now, to keep things in order, let's get back to our Gentleman Cook's grapes.
question about certain wines with certain foods. From all we can Now, next we have the dry and sweet bit. Sweet wines are usually
gather, this is a leftover idea from days when wine-drinking among just that; dry wines are just less sweet. It certainly wouldn't do to call
wealthy people offered the snobbishness of selectivity to those who them sour which they definitely aren't. A principle difference; dry table
could afford a different wine with each course of a formal meal. Basi- wines average 10%to 14%alcohol by volume; sweet (dessert) wines are
cally, the rule said, "white wines with fish, shellfish, poultry (except from 19% to 24% alcohol by volume.
certain game), and red wines with red meats, etc." Well, if you still To get back to our 5 classes of wine: our first is the Appetizer Wine.
feel that this is a good hard and fast criterion, stick with it! But the In this group we have Sherry, Vermouth, and a lot of Special Natural
modem idea of drinking what you like in wines, seems much more Wines. (That's what the wineries call them.) Sherry we'll go into later,
sensible. Vintners have brought to perfection the Rose wine that goes and at some length. Here we'll just say that Sherry has many types
with everything! ranging from a tart or dry wine to a very sweet wine. Incidentally, the
Certainly there are exceptions to any rules; it's for sure you wouldn't Chef finds that a heavy bodied sweet sherry is best for all 'round
want to drink a heavy, sweet wine with fish or meats. cooking.
We have mentioned light table wines and heavy dessert wines; Vermouth is simply a wine, or blend of wines, to which have been
let's try to condense what we know about the differences. added herbs and other aromatic flavors, sometimes as many as forty
First, among hundreds of wine-types there are basically 14 distinct or fifty in one wine. These give Vermouth its distinctive flavor. Ver-
varieties; these are further grouped into 5 classes of wines. mouth may be either dry (French) or sweet (Italian).
264 265
 Some appetizer wines of the natural type, are named by special Let's answer one of the first questions put: "What kind of glasses?"
brand names. Most are blends of natural sweet wines, each with a A 5-6 oz. glass-of any shape-is just fine with table wines, though cer-
distinctive flavoring of herbs. and aromatics added. Also, most are less tain styles are pretty standard. Drink your wine out of mugs, the baby's
expensive and are not aged; hangovers after a heavy evening with bottle, the tooth-brush glass, any old thing that's handy, 'cause the wine
many of these can be really King Size. is GOOD! It may look better in plain, clear glass, but paper cups can
The second and third of the five classes of wine are the Red and do the trick, too!
White Table wines. These are light (usually 10%-13%alcohol by vol- Making a stew? or a pot-roast? When the gravy starts to cook down,
ume) wines to be taken with meals, though they certainly can be used and some more liquid has to be added, use some tart red table wine;
refreshingly at any time. These are also called dinner wines. a Burgundy or a Claret, a vino rosso, paisano, or even Rose; sweeter
The Red Table wines are principally Burgundies and Clarets. These wines are not so good for this.
are generic names, and indicate that they are full-bodied, robustly Red and white wines do differ, just as the various grapes used taste
flavored, dry red wines. Of the two (both are about 12%alcohol) the differently. For example: Concord grapes taste differently than Muscat
Burgundy is considered the heavier in body and flavor. grapes. Both red, white and Rose table wines arc made with the same
In this class may be included the wonderful Rose (ro-zay) wines, methods; quite often this is a bulk process in California, especially with
which are pink or light red. The Rose wines are about the same alco- some of the less expensive wines. There is one difference; the color.
holic strength, and vary among brands and producers from a dry to We are told that the skins are left in the fermenting red wines and are
a semi-sweet wine. Rose has been extensively grown and perfected not left in the fermenting white wines. In the Rose, they are left in
in California, and is truly an all-purpose wine. It is fine with fish and for a time, then fished out; y'see, the color is actually in the skins.
shellfish and equally appetizing with roast beef. Many wineries now Of course, later processing (straining, etc.) removes the skins after
produce Rose under many brand names. The Chef suggests you find the wine is satisfactorily colored. I hope that answers that one. Now,
one that suits your own taste, and you've got a really wonderful, econo- sit back, Gert with that tall, cool glass of white wine and soda (called
mical mealtime drink. Rose wine is usually served chilled but many a spritzer), and let's get on with this.
Westerners prefer all their wines chilled. And why not if they like 'em These fine white table wines may be roughly divided into three
that way? groups: the Chablis type; the Rhine Wine type; and the Sauternes.
Also in the light red table wines class, are some red wines (usually The Chablis-type wines are much like French white dinner wines
less expensive) called by various names such as tipo, vino rosso, paisa- made from Charbonnay, Folle Blanche, Pinot Blanc, and other white
no, etc. Almost all of this group are labeled mellow; these same strength wine grapes. These make a slightly fuller-bodied wine than the Rhine
mellow wines are usually a little sweeter than Burgundy or Claret; Wine types, which are considered lighter-though there is practically
they make a fine table wine for people who may find Burgundy a no difference in alcoholic content. The Rhine Wines include Reisling,
little too dry. Sylvaner, Traminer, Moselle, and many others. Liebfraumilch and
Also in this group of wines, are some that are even sweeter than Johannisburger are also considered among the Rhine wines.
the dry table wines, though they are hardly sweet enough to be classed We seriously urge you to pleasantly add to your wine knowledge-
as dessert wines. These are usually made of American grapes such as and have some fun with your friends, besides. (Hmmm!) Get the gang
Concord, Catawba, etc. (Most other wines are made of grape lines together, and have several bottles of each of these white table wines.
descending from originally imported roots and vines). Most kosher Chill 'em; sample some of each comparatively. Soon you'll get to recog-
style wines are in this group; so is that favorite old American wine nize and know the differences, and will find out which you like best.
Virginia Dare and others that are similar. It's fun and can lead to almost anything!
Among the best of the Burgundies are those made from the Pinot The third of this white table wine group is called Sauterne, though
Nair grape; this name on a bottle of selected table wine assures a fine in France it is called a Sauternes, possibly because it is a blend of
meal accompaniment. Less expensive, but certainly delightful to drink, several wines from the original district. It includes a wide range of
are Burgundies made of Mountain Red grapes; these offer a fine family sweet to tartness; or from sweet sauterne (called haut or chateau) to
table wine. dry sauterne. Here again, sauterne is a generic name.
Claret has a lighter flavor and bouquet than is in the Burgundies There are other white table (or dinner) wines; a white chianti that
. for those who like it that way! is quite dry, and several American grape wines from Scuppernong,
266 267
 Catawba, Delaware, and other grape types. Most of these are semi- row up will be less aged, and so on up to the practically new wine in
sweet wines; a light white Muscat which varies considerably in differ- the casks on top. See ... ?
ent brands and bottlings may be dry or semi-sweet. Now, when the wine is drawn from the bottom row, it is replaced
Poaching some fish? Steaming a few fresh clams? Making a gelatin by wine from the next oldest (the row above); this in turn is replaced
salad or mold? Almost any time that you use water for these and other by wine from the next oldest above,-and so on up to the top, where
similar kitchen tasks, the finished food will be doubly good and won- they'll add some of yesterday's squeezins. This means that the wine
derfully flavored, if you use one of these light white wines instead of bottled from the bottom is aged and multi-blended. (Almost all wines
the water. And you'll find them in generous and inexpensive half- are blends to an extent, of different wines and/or juices from the same
gallons in your neighborhood markets and liquor stores. You'll be type grapes. This enables the winemaker to make a product that is
amazed! Try them! stable batch after batch.
After appetizer Wines (No. 1.), Red and White Table Wines (No. To maintain the quality and flavors of these long-aging wines, the
2 and 3), come the so-called Sweet Dessert Wines. Basically, this casks of Sherry are subject to some kind of heat processing. Because
category includes most of the sweeter wines that are 21%to 23%alcohol of this, Sherry is sometimes called a baked wine. The combination of
by volume. Briefly, these are Port, which comes in a range of several selected grapes, heated storage, aging, old oaken casks, and the Solera
colors and quite a few exciting shadings of flavor; Muscatel, also in system of blending, all work to give Sherry its basic nut-like flavor.
several colors, various grades of flavor and sweetness; and Tokay usual- However, differences in wine grapes, deliberate selections for blending
ly a pinkish-gold blend of several sweet wines that is noticeably sweet. and mating for color, flavor, etc. make it possible for Sherry to be
Others of this group are Angelica, Madeira, Marsala, and many sweet produced in many colors, flavors, and actual tastes. Almost all Sherry
Sherries, (including Olorosos, cream, etc. More about Sherry-a most wine is from 20% to 24%alcohol by volume.
unusual wine). Dry Cocktail Sherry will be pale in color; seemingly light and dry
What is often overlooked, is that all wines are not necessarily made in texture and taste. Thoroughly chilled it is a fine appetizer wine, and
of grapes; there are fine berry and fruit wines, too. Most of these are a major item now in demand at cocktail bashes. At the other end of
sweet and so fall into this dessert wine group. the Sherry list, are heavy bodied, maturely bronzed, sweet Sherries.
Let's take a moment to look at some Sherry Wine. Often flavored as sweet Dessert wines, these dark brown mellow wines
Down in the corner of Spain, between Portugal and Gibraltar, is a are best for almost any cooking purpose as there is more flavor residue
smallish Spanish City called Jerez (sometimes Xeres) de la Frontera. left when the alcohol is burned off. In between these two Sherries, are
While all Californians can pronounce this name correctly, the British many, many others; perhaps in the middle is a medium Sherry (just
never did, so in England it became Sherry. This is the centuries-old plain Sherry on many California bottlings). A little sweeter than
home of one of the world's greatest wines. Today, modem methods to medium is a cream Sherry; while less sweet is a Palomino, which is
a certain extent have replaced many of the old wine-making processes. not quite a pale dry. California has used quite sensible descriptive
(It is NOT true, that "only in Cucamonga, do they still stomp out names for many Sherries; comparisons with the Spanish are often made.
the stuff with their bare tootsies!", always efficient, the hillsiders of l The driest of Spanish Sherry, is a fino (though basically all dry
San Bernardino are now wearing 'swimfins' at their work.) Spanish Sherries may be called fino) and as dry, perhaps, but aged
Perhaps the one thing the Spanish winemakers do have that has and blended to a distinctive and remarkable flavor is Amontillado.
not (as yet) been successfully duplicated (or bettered) in the Cali- Sweeter (Spanish) Sherries are in two groups, though they may be
fornia wineries, are the thousands of barrels of old, old wines that have jointly called olorosos. Least sweet is a pale cortado, which is compar-
resulted from the Solera system. Even these fine old wines-some blends able to a California medium Sherry. There are literally hundreds of
of wines over 50 years old-are now blended into younger wines, for variations; sweetest and heaviest bodied are the olorosos proper,
various degrees of the characteristic old, nutty, Sherry flavor. so-called. These are dessert wines.
The Solera system is a really simple thing, but it's kinda hard to Spanish winemakers also had a thing with natural yeasts in the
explain. Picture a whole row of casks of wine, with another row on top processing of some of their wines; these are called la Flor Sherries.
of those, and more and more rows on top of these, etc., etc., bottom In California, some wineries operate a solera, some few make a la Flor
casks may contain part wine that is 20-30-50, or more, years old while Sherry, and much of California Sherry is made by more standard bulk
the row just above is a few years newer. Then, the wine in the next wine procedure, with sometimes the more flavorful fine wines of the
268 269
more difficult and expensive methods, blended in. are still somewhat scarce. In California, some batches of fine wines that
Let's keep in mind, then, that versatile Sherry, of some kind, is seem particularly good to the maker, may be called vintage; in the
usually liked by everyone; for those who want a sweet wine or a dry old-country sense and meaning, we do not have vintage years in Cali-
wine, or for those who have found that the nutty flavor of a fine Sherry fornia, simply because every year had more than enough days of hot,
is just the drink for them. sunny weather to fully mature the grapes.
However, Sherry is (alcoholically) a heavy wine, and is not recom- To get back to the Champagnes of France, in the 'old-style' manner,
mended as a table or general dining beverage. An exception is the .the wines of Champagne were hand-bottled, set to age and ripen in
custom of serving a glass of dry Sherry-well chilled-with canapes, racks at the proper temperature. Much of this was done in natural
hors d'oeuvres, and soup, in a formal meal. caves. Bottles were corked tightly to prevent the escape of the natural
Around the small town of Epernay, in North Central France, it effervescence; so that the cork would not dry out, the bottles were laid
was thought, many years ago, that the small, tart local grape had a on their sides, and slanting down. For the same reason, each bottle
happy faculty of retaining its bubbly or effervescent quality, after the was given a quarter-turn each month-for seven long years or more.
wine had been made, (what is now called a second fermentation). The Then the old cork with the accumulated sediment on it, was dexterously
wines made from these comparatively few acres of grapes, after being removed and a fresh cork was put in its place. With all this handling-
processed, bottled and aged became a naturally foamy product, and over seven years-many bottles were lost; explosions, seepage and
were obviously different from other wines. Some other wines do have possibly the vintner dranl- a few! All these factors helped make this
this effervescence, to an extent; all of these, hoth red and white, are wine of Champagne a luxury, and a very expensive item.
called sparkling wines. (Now, of course, they stir up a batch in a large bath-tub, add some
The particular wines from this Champagne district-as it is known chemicals like carbon dioxide (which also make 7- Up fizz, machine
geographically-became premium wines, because of their rarity and bottle it, and wham! It's on the shelves waitin' for you, in a few hours!)
scarcity. Of course vinyardists soon got the idea, and planted more and A modern method called bulk-processing does eliminate much of the
more of this particular grape; in fact, they planted so much that they old way, much of the time involved. Knowing a real good thing when
might have ruined the value of the true original wines from Epernay. they had it, the Champagne manufacturers have kept the
So a wise French law was passed, prohibiting the use of the name good old luxury prices on Champagne. Actually, in many
Champagne on any but wines from the select and original (even so- ~ states this includes a ridiculous and uncalled for $3.40/ gal.
considerbly enlarged) district. "sparkling wines tax," in addition to all other taxes of
making and marketing. Incidentally, ya wanna really live
VINT ACE In European vineyards and wineries, there is a thing it up, try a Champagne Spritzer for hot weather; half-fill a
called a vintage, which we do not have in domestic wines. Vintage is tall, tall glass with Champagne; add a couple ice cubes;
easily explained: wine growers have figured out that it takes-in their fill glass with good soda. Very relaxin'; also fine with Reis-
particular vineyard-just so many days for the wine-grapes to mature, ling, Traminer, other 'dry' white wines.
from first hud to full ripe bunch. They broke this down to so many Champagne has several degrees of sweetness. Brut is
hours of sunny weather, so much damp and foggy weather, etc. Of the driest. A real sweet Champagne is a doux.
course they noted that in years when the ripening season had a lot of California Champagne is among the finest in the world;
sunny days-the grapes (and the wines they made) were better than it is made from the blended juices of several fine wine
in years when the weather was had. This figures, because it needs the grapes. In color the wine runs from a pale straw color,
sun (as in California) to convert or cook the natural sugars in the through brilliant gold; there is also pink champagne.
grapes, to form the basic alcohol. So, in years with heavy sun, and Aside from Sparkling Burgundy, there are also fine
little wind or fog, a much better grape (for wine making ... ) was sparkling Rose Wines and sparkling Muscats (also called
grown; and these produced a much better wine, with a higher measur- Moscato Spumante). Some wines are made artificially
able amount of natural flavors and alcohols. All years were not good, sparkling by addition of an artificial carbonization; these (by law) must
hut the good years were called vintage years. At Epemay, the right be so labeled.
comhination of vines, soil, climate, makes for fine Champagnes; but All of these fine sparkling wines are made in California; because of
these, compared to the bulk of wines produced elsewhere in Europe, pecular, current (1964) tax demands, it is not very profitable to market
270 271
 And this also seems like a fine place to end the mad pages of this
them. There is some hope that a sensible adjustment of taxes on wine Gay Cookbook. If the true way to a man's heart (what was 'that, again?)
manufacture will make these more available, more popular as they is through his stomach then the many pearls of wisdom dropped here
deserve to be. will help in making many trips to his best feature.
American wines are made commercially in 27 states: Florida, Mis- We feel that the enlightened souls who have read here-be they
souri, Arkansas, Ohio, Indiana, New York, etc. Many are fine, high- men, women, children, or otherwise, will somehow manage to get their
quality wines; but America's best-acknowledged by the world-are share. And my dears it is really much more sporting to offer an omelette
from California. (The Chef is obviously one of them natives!) instead of a $5 bill. However, let us add a social warning (to all sports-
When cooking meat, fish, or poultry, you will add immeasurably men): When you have enticed someone in, and after some minutes of
to the flavor if, after the item is just cooked, and the excess fat poured what is politely known as desultory conversation, and the character
off, you add a glass (2 or 3 ounces) of wine to the food in the pan. starts playing with his switchblade as he says, "Lay some bread on me,
Swirl it about over the flame or heat; it will catch fire, but this spectac- hear?" he is NOT asking for a sandwich. Ya better get out the billfold
ular blaze will bum off in a minute. This is the actual alcohol in the (the one with the single small bill), edge the door open, and prepare
wine that is on fire. The residue of the wine, left in the pan, and then to scream the house down, Gert.
poured over the food as it is served, makes the dish doubly exciting Also, let's not be so damned competitive; as the old spider said to
and palatable. the young one, "Lissen, May, ya keep ya cotton-pickin' hands off my
Each wine is at its very best at one certain time after its making; fly!"
this may be one year or twenty, seldom more; and this varies with the
wine. A Rose wine for example is considered best when young, one
or two years old. If it is a somewhat sweet Rose (and a few are) it The End
could be at its peak in a little over two years; possibly the added sweet-
ness preserves it longer. Similarly, a very dry Rose would be most
drinkable a year earlier. In California, the average age for fancy-grade
appetizer and dessert wines is around four years, mostly spent in
wooden casks; three years for most red table wines (two of this in the
wood); two to three years for the white table wines; three to five
years for Champagne, etc. Like almost everything, wine can gradually
deteriorate after reaching its peak of perfection, thought it may first
maintain that peak for quite a time. Aging .mellows wine, but a so-
called real old, old wine is not necessarily a good or a best wine.
Sometimes a wine of some years in the bottle, will have a slight
sediment; this is not a fault or a flaw; it will, in fact, usually denote
a particularly notable flavor in that bottle of wine. The bottle should
NOT be shaken up. NO wines should be-ever! The wine should be
carefully poured out (or decanted), leaving the sediment in the
bottom of the bottle.
Wines, in your liquor store or market, most often come in 4/5 pints
and 4/5 qt; these hold 12~ oz. and 25.6 oz. Some quarts of 32 oz. are
available; half-gallons (64 oz.) and gallons (128 oz.) are most econom-
ical. Most popular-for family consumption-is the half-gallon; probably
because it fits so nicely in the 'fridge; some of the fancier bottles even
look well as table decanters. Dinner wines and Champagnes often
come in splits; these vary from 6 to 8 oz.; usually offer two glasses of
the wine.
273
272
 INDEX
abalone 57 Blue cheese (salad dressing) 24
saute Meuniere 58 Bordelaise Sauce 92; 169
saute Monterey-style 58 braising 102
Aphrodisiacs, etc. 10 bratwurst 101
apples, baked in wine 236 breading 55; 220
Arroz con Pollo (Rice) 224 Brown Bread, Old Fash. Boston 163
butter, clarified . 67; Hi8
barbecue sauce 117
spare ribs 117 cakes, loaf 246
spare ribs Hawaiian 118 gingerbread, Old Fash. 248
Bourguignon 124 canapes 6
prime ribs 103 caviar 8
Roasts 103 champagne 8; 270
stews 120 cheese blintzes 244
stews quick 229 Chefs '1-2-3' dressing 23
stews Browned Beef, etc. 123 chicken 131
beer 261 broiled 132
beets 190 oven-roasted 133
pickled 31 Maryland 133
Red Flannel Hash 191 Hawaiian 133
biscuits (Hot Breads) 25 a la Campana 134
'Biscuits & Sherry' 4 Marengo 134
Biscuit Tortoni 234 Provencals 135
Blanquette de Veau 171 Cacciatore (Chasseur) 135
blintzes, cheese 244 Normande 136

275
 Cantonese 137 deep-drying 219
Paella ala Valenciana 138 vegetables 220 stuffed 152 Liptauer cheese 7
Wiener Backhun 139 batter 220 Gazpacho 15 Liqueurs 263
Paprika Chicken 139 breading 220 garnishes 93; 35 liver 119
Smetane chicken 139 dressings (salad) Gefilte Fish 83 Fegato Venizia 119
boiled chicken 139 French 22 gingerbread 248 lobster 64
chicken broth 140 cream 23 Glace de Viande (sauces) 172 broiled 65
Hot Chicken Sandwich, Chef's '1-2-3' 23 Goulash 124 tails 65
Mark Hopkins 141 1000 Island 25 Crandma's Fried Chicken 146 a la Mirabeau 65
a fa King 141 Blue Cheese 24 a la Gratinee 68 Diablo 68
Tetrazinni 142 Louis 30 gravies (sauces) 163 Thermidor 66
Caruso 142 Remoulade 30 Guacamole 27 gratinee 68
chicken Fricassee 142 Honey Mayonnaise 32 dunk 28 salad 29
Divan 145 dried vegetables 22::1
Louis dressing 30
Grandma's fried Chicken 146 rice, etc. 223 Hamburger 98
chicken gravy 146 beans, peas 226 steak 98 Macaroni salad ('old stuff) 28
salad 141 Kasha 226 Ham steak (dinner) 95 and cheese 228
Chinese Almond Cookies 4 Drinks 257 the 'Hard Stuff 262 marinated cucumbers 31
Chili 35 ducks 149 Hare Pie 157 mayonnaise 24
chops 96 with olives 150 heart, baked 115 Honey 32
clams 55 a la Orange, Bigarade 150 Holstein Schnitzel 97 Meat sauce, Italian 47
'steam' 56 a la Montmorency 151 honey mayonnaise 32 meatless' 48
Bordelaise 56 dumplings 122 hors d'oeuvres 9 Meat balls 99
Cocktail sauce 61 dunks 7 Hot Buttered Rum 105 Meat Loaf 100
cod 81 hot breads 251 Meat Pie 125
Eggs, Florentine 201 mixes 251 milk 260
cakes 82 Eggplant 199 basic biscuit mix 251 instant 260
Bacalao con pappas 83 moussaka 199 biscuit varieties 252 cream 261
New England creamed Cod 83 67; 177
32 shortbread 252 Mornay sauce (sauces)
Creole 83 Favorite Salad 122
119 Hot Cakes 252 Mulligan Stew
coffee 257 Fegato Venizia 252 93; 201
82 muffins mushrooms
iced 259 fish cakes 93; 201
82 other preparations 252 steak garnish
coffee cake, pineapple 249 cod 202
81 Pie
Cole Slaw 25 'Swedish' style Icing, confectioner's 248 178
237 sauce
confectioner's icing 248 flaming desserts 'instant' puddings 235 57
247 mussels
cookies 250 Four Fruit Bread instant tea & coffee 259
Fairy Fingers 250 French dressing 22
Italian Meat Sauce 47 Newburg 53
Chinese Almond 4 cream 23
Italian sausage 101 shrimp 53
cornbread 253 Fresh Fruits Compote 238
Italian Spaghetti sauces 45 sauce 53
corned beef (dinner) 112 fritters, corn 198
Italian Spaghetti sauces - meatless 48
hash 114 fricassee, Iamb 125
Italian fried vegetables 222 Old Fashioned stews 122
corn fritters 198 veal 125
Irish Lamb Stew 122 onions 93;203
crabs 60 chicken 142
fried 93;203
St. Denis 60 fried fish 73 225 93
Jambalaya (rice) French Fried
deviled 60 Frog Legs 158 sauces 178
chioppino 61 saute 158 Kartofel Pfannkuchen 216 soubise 178
cocktail 61 Amandine 159
Kasha 226 oysters 58
salads 29 Meuniere 159
knackwurst 101 breading 59
Louis 30 Figaro 159
kugel (ootato) 217 fried 59
cream gravy (sauces) 171 Provencale 159
stew 58
cucumbers, marinated 31 frozen desserts 234 Lamb, fricassee 125
Curry 39 fruit salad 32 Irish stew 122 Paella ala Valenciana 138
Lamb 42 frying batter 219 roast leg 108 Paprika Schnitzel 97
Chicken 43 Game Birds 152 Roast Saddle, Santa Fe 110 pasta 45
Shrimp 43 squab 152 steaks 95 alIa aglio e olio 184
custard, plain baked 236 Rock cornish 152 stews 122 pickled beets 31
cutlets 96 roast 152 'stuffing' 110 pie, other pastry 238
Latkes (potato) 216 annle 240
276
277
 other fruit 241 Soanish Rice 224 Bordelaise (California) 93; 169 scallops
Lemon Meringue 241 Jambalaya 225 deep-fried 54
Caper Sauce 169
pumpkin 243 pudding 235 55
cheese sauce 170 scalloped potatoes with pork chops 215
custard 244 Roquefort (salad) dressing 24 Chutney sauce 170 Shepherd's pie
Pilaf 223 Rote Kohl 193 126
Country gravy 170 Sherry
Pineapple Coffee Cake 249 Rum 262 5;268
Red Eye Gravy 95; 170 .. & Biscuit'
Pizza, small & quick 229 Hot Buttered 105 4
cream gravy & sauce 171 shortribs of beef
Polish sausages 101 102
chicken gravy 146 shrimp
Pork 105 41;225 61
Saffron . Turkey gravy 148 salad
roast 105 263 29
Sake Curry Sauce 43; 171 Louis
steak 94 Sauerbraten 112 30
Diablo Sauce 171 Remoulade
Leg of Fresh Pork 105 Sausages 101 30
Egg sauce 171 Newburg
Sweet Pickled Pork 106 21 53
Salads Fine Herbs sauce 171 Bayou
ham 107 dressings 22 63
fricassee sauces 171 Curry 39
chops with scalloped potato 215 French dressing 22 Glace de viande slaws
172 25
Spare-ribs 117 cream French 23 Hollandaise Sauce Smetane Schnitzel
172 97
Spare-ribs BiBQ 117 '1-2-3' 23 Mousseline Sauce Sole
175 74
Spare-ribs Hawaiian 118 mayonnaise 24 Avgo-Lemono sauce Bonne Femme
175 74
pot roast III Roquefort (Blue Cheese) 24 Horseradish sauce Normande
175 76
potatoes 213 1000 Island 25 cold horseradish cream Cardinal
176 76
baked 213 Louis 30 Madeira Sauce Mornay
176 76
boiled 213 Remoulade 30 Meat sauces Marchand du Vin
49; 177 76
roast
jacket
Delmonico
213
213
213
Honey-Mayonnaise
green salads
slaws
32
22
25
.~, '~
Mexican sauce
Murnay Sauce
Mushroom sauce
177
177;67
178
Provencale
soups
cold
76

15
potato salad 214 Cole slaw 25 Mustard Sauce canned
178 17
mashed 214 Swedish slaw 26 onion sauce Tomato, Tarragona
178 17
scalloped 214 Guacamole 27 soubise spaghetti
179 227
scalloped with pork chops 215 dunk 28 sauces
Sauce Robert 179 45
fried potatoes
hash-browned
215
215
'old stuff'
potato & macaroni salads
28
28
, Piquante sauce 179 Spanish rice 224
Poivrade sauce 179 Steaks 91
German fried 215 Shrimp salad 29 Polonaise 196 alia Gorgonzola 92
American fried 215 Crab salad 29 Port Wine Sauce 179 veal 94
Lyonnaise 215 Lobster salad 29 raisin sauce pork
180 94
Paysanne 215 Tuna Salad 29 Poulette sauce ham
180 95
Japanese 215 Chicken salad 29 Provencale sauce lamb
180 95
cottage-fried 215 Crab Louis 30 Supreme sauce 180 hamburger 98
potato pancakes 216 Shrimp Louis 30 Tomato sauce swiss 126
181
Kartofel pfannkuchen 216 Shrimp Remoulade 30 Vin Blanc sauce stocks, gravy, etc. 105
181
Latkes 216 Louis Dressing 30 butters and butter-sauces 182 stews 120
Kugel 217 Remoulade Dressing 30 almond 182 old-fashioned 121
French Fried Potatoes 217 Vegetable Combination Salads 30 Lemon 182 Mulligan 122
Potato Hints 218 marinate cucumbers 31 Meuniere 182 dumplings 122
pickled beets 31 Parsley 182 O.F. Lamb stew 122
Rabbit 155 favorite salad 32 Buerre Noir 182 Irish Lamb stew 122
fried 156 Fruit salad 32 Fines Herbes 183 browned beef 123
casserole, potted 156 Sauces 163 Tarragon 183 French stew 123
Hare Pie 157 brown gravy, basic 164 Mint 183 Beef Bourguignon 124
Rahrn Schnitzel 97 white sauce, basic 166 r. Anchovy 183 Goulash 124
Red-Eyed Gravy 95; 170 Spanish Sauce, basic 167 Caper 183 fricassees 125
Red Flannel Hash 191 clarified butter 168 Garlic 183 lamb or veal 125
rice, plain 40 meat Glaze 172 Bercy ( bu tter ) 184 stuffings 110
Saffron / 225 au buerre 169 etc ... for roast lamb 110
'ol'ient~tyle'
'home- tyle'
Pilaf, etc.
223
223
223
Barbecue Sauce
Bearnaise
Bercy butter & sauce
117
169
184
.. spaghetti sauces
Tartar
cocktail
45; 181
55
61
basic
Southern Cornbread
wild rice, etc.
153
154
154
Risotto Milanaise 224 Bigarade (orange) 108; 150; 169 Scallopini 98 Swedish slaw 26

218 279
Swiss steak 126 Vichy 195
baked or glazed 195
Tartare sauce 55 Carrot Tzimmes 195
Tea 258 cauliflower 196
iced 259 with cheese sauce 196
Tequilla 262 buttered 196
1000 Island (salad dressing) 25 salad 30
Tomato soup, Tarragona 17 polonaise 196
Tongue 114 celery 197
Tripe 115 amandine, etc. 197
Trout, pan-fried 77 com 197
meuniere 77 succotash 197
Amandine 77 O'Brien 197
stuffed 78 Mexicorn 197
Tuna Salad 29 fritters 198
Turkey 146 scalloped 198
roast 147 pudding or custard 199
boiled 149 cucumbers 199
gravy 148 eggplant 199
steaks & cutlets 149 fried 199
fricasee 171 stuffed, Moussaka 199
a la king 149 greens (spinach, etc.) 200
Tzimmes, carrot 195 I tahan style 200
mushrooms 201
Veal, Blanquette de Veau 96 steak garnish, etc. 201
Grant Avenue 94 Mushroom Pie 202
cutlette alia Marsala 97 okra 202
cutlette alia Parmigiano 97 onions 203
fricassee 125 boiled, etc. 203
Vegetable Combination Salad 30 fried 203
Vegetables 187 parsnips 203
artichokes 188 boiled 203
asparagus 188 glazed 204
beans, green, etc. 189 fried 204
'les haricots verts, Amandine' 189 peas 204
Italian green beans (fagioh) 189 puree 204
Wax beans 189 Les Petit Pois au Parisienne 205
fresh Iimas 189 peppers 205
beans Hongroise 190 squash 205
Beets 190 winter, summer 205
Harvard 190 tomatoes 206
Orange 191 scalloped 206
glazed 191 broiled 206
Red Flannel Hash 191 fried 207
Broccoli 221 turnips (white & yellow) 207
Brussells Sprouts 191 rutabagas 207
orange sprouts 191 yams & sweet potatoes 207
cabbage 192 zuchinni 208
nlain boiled 192
scalloped 192 Weiner Schnitzel 97
braised 193 Weiner Backhun 139
German or Bavarian 193 Wines 265
Rote Kohl 193 sherry 5;268
kraut 193 sauces 179; 181
a la Alsacienne 194 'Wines of California' 265 '1 ••
carrots 194
with curry 195 Zabaghone 237

280