DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Seville & Andalusia, Revised Edition
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Seville & Andalusia, Revised Edition
com
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SEVILLE
& ANDALUSIA
www.ebook3000.com
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SEVILLE
& ANDALUSIA
www.ebook3000.com
Contents
How to Use this Guide 6
Main Contributors
David Baird, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall
Photographers
Neil Lukas, John Miller, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas
Bible illustration in Moorish style
(Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Steven Gyapay,
dating from the 10th century
Claire Littlejohn, Maltings, Chris Orr, John Woodcock
The History of
Seville and
Andalusia 44
La Macarena 88
Andalusia
Area by Area
Andalusia at
a Glance 124
Huelva and
Sevilla 126
The Generalife
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6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
areas. Across the River makes the splendid Real Alcázar with the royal
palaces and lush Jardines del Alcázar; and
the Archivo de Indias, whose documents
Its adjacent market squares, such as the
charming Plaza del Salvador, provided
backdrops for Cervantes’ stories. Nearby,
up a fifth area. Each area has tell of Spain’s exploration and conquest of
the New World.
Spreading northeast from these great
the ornate façades and interiors of the
Ayuntamiento and the Casa de Pilatos, a
gem of Andalusian architecture, testify to
Sights at a Glance
its own chapter, which opens monuments is an enchanting maze of
whitewashed streets. The artist Bartolomé
the great wealth and artistry that flowed
into the city in the 16th century.
lists the chapter’s sights by
category: Churches, Museums
with a list of the sights LAR AÑA
IMA
GEN
JUAN DE
MESA JAU
AR
REG
UI
DIEG
O
MER DE
Sights at a Glance
CA AP LO Gardens
A
PL SAN LL ILE
NDIG
YE LUQUE
2 Calle Sierpes
JIAS
FRAN
LL
NE
TA
SA
OS
CRISTO DE
CALLE DE RECARE
CAL
NT
PEREZ
BURGOS
8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
LOS NAVARR
SC
A
O
CA LL
LINEROS
CI
CUNA
NZ
IERP
E
DOS
L LE LA
N
I
B O TERO e Jardines de Murillo
RA
S F CA
GAL
M
ES
RIA
Q
A LL LE
RO
LLE DE
UEZ T
CA
RI
Churches
RE
A AL
ER
AL
IZA
LFA
SALVADOR CAL
CA
VILLEGAS
Y
MANUEL SAN
E
ESTE
L R
La Giralda pp82–3
LIR
CORTINA
VIRGENES
BA
ISIDOR N
A NCOS
CALLE SAN
DE
CALLE ALVAREZ Q U IN
MUÑ
IO
O
COS
O
RI
MAR R
Historic Buildings
E DE IBAR
L
OZ
ND
RA
RA
RES
R CO
E
LE DE FR
CO
PA
1 Palacio de Lebrija
Y
LL
B ON
CA
ADO
PL DE SAN
3 Ayuntamiento
FEDERICO
FRANCISCO PL DE LAS
RUBIO
SA N
CA
PL ZURR
MERCEDARIAS
A
IN
VIE DE
LL
AV D A D E
CAL
E AI
YO
ES
OL
LE LLE
S
COL
RE
TERO
JOS
AD
CA
DE 6 Casa de Pilatos
LA
E GU
OT
C A L L E AB
EL ZM
ES
E
RG BU AN
ED
0 Archivo de Indias
PE
EN
SP
FA
O
A
BIO
LA CONST
SA
CE
L
q Real Alcázar pp86–7
NT
AN
ETO
OS
A
ALEMANES GE
A
GO
ER
LE
w Hospital de los Venerables
M
CU
EZ
S O
1
AR
PL VIRGEN
CH
GA
AR
MAT
C
DE UC
LA
EZ ES LA CA
EN S
B
NC
NE
XIM
CION
TA
A
TER
ME
ESA
ALFARO 1 Albarama
Archivo JARDINES
UA DE MURILLO 2 La Albahaca
ERI
de Indias AG
A
3 Berrecita
LL
PLAZA
CONTRATACION 4 Casa Plácido
5 Casa Robles
Baths of Doña María de Padilla, beneath the Patio del Crucero, in the Real Alcázar For map symbols see back flap
76 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA EL ARENAL 77
2 Street-by-Street Map residences and tourist accommodation. Good bars Horse carriages line this plaza which
and restaurants make the area well worth a visit. has an early 20th-century fountain
by José Lafita. Plaza Santa Cruz is
adorned by an ornate
S
EN
TA T
ER
M
M AT E
OS XI
RO
Convento de la
sightseeing area.
A
DR
JA
UZ
LO
O
M
OS CR
PE
ER
IN
RE E S TA
DA
RU
O
AV
NA
E
EN
D
A
IDA
DE
R IA
LO
JU
L A CO NS
G
ST
BE
IN
RU
O
U
DE
w . Hospital
O
A
T
NE
Ñ
ER
UA
ITU
O
D IR A
M
VE
de los Venerables
AG
RO
P L LV
CIO
L This 17th-century
P IM
E
DE
SU
N
IE
NT
E JO
NA
CA Baroque church.
7 . Seville Cathedral
and La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral AS
M
and its Moorish bell tower are TO Callejón del Agua
A
O
AR
enchanting glimpses
UEL
Washington Irving
(see p57) stayed at No. 2.
9 Plaza
del Triunfo
A Baroque
column celebrates
84 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA S A N TA C R U Z 85
the city’s survival of
0 metres 50
3 Detailed information
which was founded in 1591. 26 96. Open 10am–1:30pm, 4–7:30pm
Map 3 C2 (6 D4). Palacio Arzobispal The convent stands on grounds daily. & except Sun evening. 7 8
Closed to the public. Convento de la that have also been the site of
Encarnación Closed to the public. a mosque and of a hospital. Located in the heart of the
CÓRDOBA
AND JAÉN
Andalusia Area by Area
Córdoba, with its magnificent mosque and pretty
Moorish patios, is northern Andalusia’s star attraction.
Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Moriles wine towns and
also Baroque treasures such as Priego de Córdoba. Jaén’s mountain passes are
gateways to the province’s beautiful Renaissance towns of Ubeda and Baeza,
and to the great wildlife reserves of the mountain ranges.
1 Introduction
The landscape, history
and character of each
In this book, Andalusia has been
Córdoba, on Andalusia’s great river
Guadalquivir, was a Roman provincial
capital over 2,000 years ago, but its
Running across the north of Córdoba and
Jaén provinces is the Sierra Morena. Deer
and boar shelter in the forest and scrub of region is described here, divided into four distinct regions,
golden age came with the Moors. In the
10th century it was the western capital
of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad
this broad mountain range. The sierras
dominate Jaén province. The great Río
Guadalquivir springs to life as a sparkling showing how the area each of which has a separate
in wealth, power and sophistication.
Today it is an atmospheric city, its ancient
quarters and buildings reflecting a long
trout stream in the Sierra de Cazorla, the
craggy wilderness along its eastern
border. Through the ages, mule trains, has developed over the chapter. The most interesting
and glorious history.
Córdoba’s surrounding countryside is
dotted with monuments to its Moorish
traders, highwaymen and armies have
used the cleft in Sierra Morena, known as
Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, to cross centuries and what it sights to visit have been
past – like the Caliph’s palace of Medina
Azahara. To the south lies the Campiña, an
undulating landscape covered in regiments
from La Mancha and Castilla to Andalusia.
Ancient castles perched on heights,
once strategic outposts on the Muslim/ offers the visitor today. numbered on a Regional Map.
of olives and vines, and green and gold Christian frontier, now overlook the
expanses of sunflowers and corn. Here peaceful olive groves punctuated by
and there are whitewashed villages and historic towns preserving gems of post-
hilltop castles with crumbling walls. Reconquest architecture.
Belalcázar Santa
2 Regional Map
r
ja
Eufemia
Zú
Pueblonuevo a
én
Villanueva
r e n
illustrated overview of the
dal
Fuente
Bélmez de Córdoba
M o Beas de
SEGURA DE
Gua
Cardeña LA SIERRA
S i e r r a
Obejuna LA CAROLINA Segura
Santisteban
AS
Embalse
DE LA CABEZA
VI
de Rumblar BAÑOS DE
YL D
San Juan ad
Arquillos Gu Villanueva del
A RAL
ANDÚJAR
C Ó R D O B A
LA UE
Adamuz
r
MONTORO
vi
Santo
ui
RQ
ÚBEDA
,S
alq
Embalse Tomé
Mengíbar BAEZA
ad
PA
Gu
OR
AZAHARA CÓRDOBA
Hornachuelos
Embalse
Porcuna J A É N
G ua
CASTILLO DE G ua
daj Mancha
na
AGUILAR Locubín
ad
CABRA
oz
ALCALÁ LA
REAL Key
fully. The main Autovía de Andalucía NIV
Puente LUCENA PRIEGO DE Granada (A4) follows the Guadalquivir valley. To the
Genil CÓRDOBA Motorway north of the valley public transport is
Embalse de
Cordobilla Rute Major road sparse, but there are frequent bus services
Granada
Minor road to the south. Córdoba is well served by
Benamejí trains, including the AVE high-speed train
Gen
Main railway
Málaga and as far as Lleida. Jaén, however,
0 kilometres 20 Provincial border is not so well served, with only one direct
Málaga
Olive groves stretching across the countryside 0 miles 10 Summit train per day to Córdoba.
For additional map symbols see back flap
7 Montilla 9 Lucena
The Patios of Córdoba Córdoba. Road map C2. * 23,000. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 40,000.
3 Detailed information £ @ n Calle Capitan Alonso de @ n Castillo del Moral s/n (957 51
Since early times, family and social life in Andalusia have revolved around the courtyard Vargas 3 (957 65 23 54). ( Fri. 32 82). ( Wed. ∑ turlucena.com
or patio, which is at the heart of the classic Mediterranean house. The sleeping accom-
modation and living rooms were built round this space, which introduces air and light Montilla is the centre of an Lucena prospers from furniture
on each entry into the house. Brick arches, colourful tiles, ironwork, orange and lemon trees, and pots
full of flowers add to the charm of these cool and tranquil retreats. Córdoba takes pride
important wine-making region,
but one that finds it difficult to
emerge from the shadow of a
making and from its brass and
copper manufactures, and
produces interesting ceramics.
in all its patio gardens, be they palatial spaces in the grandest residences or tiny more famous rival. The excellent Under the caliphs of Córdoba
All the important towns and courtyards in humble homes, shared by many. There are traditional patios in the San
Lorenzo and Judería quarters and in Barrio San Basilio, west of the Mezquita.
white wine is made in the same
way as sherry (see pp34–5) and
tastes rather like it but, unlike
(see p50) it was an important
trading and intellectual centre,
with a dynamic, independent, Statue of Santo Domingo, Iglesia Santo
who wrote about the Incas, Baroque sacristy and three q Baena
numbering given on the lived there in the 16th century.
Bodega Alvear
naves with delicate arches.
On the first Sunday in May
Lucena stages an elaborate
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 20,000.
@ n Virrey del Pino 5 (957 67 17 57).
( Thu. ∑ baena.es
Regional Map. Within each Festival de los Patios, when scores of Avenida María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65 ceremony, which honours the
patios are thrown open to the public, 01 00. Open daily (call first to arrange Virgen de Araceli. Baena’s olive oil has been famed
takes place in early May (see pp42–3). visit). Closed Sun & public hols. since Roman times. At the top
The most beautifully decorated patio Bodega Pérez Barquero of the whitewashed town is
Andalusian Patio
Avenida Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65 05
00. Open phone ahead to make an
appt, or e-mail info@perezbarquero.
0 Cabra
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 21,000.
@ n Calle del Junquillo, s/n (957 52
Iglesia Santa María la Mayor.
On the Plaza de la Constitución
stands the handsome, modern
This scene, painted by García com. ∑ perezbarquero.com town hall. The Casa del Monte,
buildings and other sights. usually immaculately whitewashed, episcopal seat in the 3rd century. Easter week is spectacular,
contrasting with the colourful display On a rise stands the former castle, when thousands of drummers
of geraniums and carnations in which is now a school. There are take to the streets (see p38).
terracotta pots. Fragrant blooms of
jasmine add to the atmosphere.
8 Aguilar
Features give information on Córdoba. Road map C2. * 13,500.
£ @ n Cuesta de Jesús 2, Edificio
Antiguo Posito (957 66 15 67). ( Tue,
Expansion Of The
Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the original
mosque. Extensions were added
by Abd al Rahman II, al Hakam II
and al Mansur.
. Arches and Pillars
More than 850 columns of granite,
jasper and marble support the roof,
creating a dazzling visual effect.
Many were taken from
Roman and Visigothic
buildings.
Key to Floorplan
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
4 Top Sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
are dissected to reveal their
Patio de los Naranjos
KEY
interiors; museums and
1 Puerta de San Esteban is set
in a section of wall from an earlier
Visigothic church.
galleries have colour-coded
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
floorplans to help you locate
3 Capilla Mayor
4 The cathedral choir has
Churrigueresque stalls, carved by
Torre del Alminar
This bell tower, 93 m
(305 ft) high, is built on . Mihrab
. Capilla de Villaviciosa
The first Christian chapel to
the most interesting exhibits.
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758. the site of the original This prayer niche, richly ornamented, be built in the mosque, in
minaret. Steep steps held a gilt copy of the Koran. The worn 1371, the Capilla de
5 Capilla Real
lead to the top for a flagstones indicate where pilgrims Villaviciosa has stunning
fine view of the city. circled it seven times on their knees. multi-lobed arches.
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INTRODUCING
SEVILLE AND
ANDALUSIA
Discovering Seville
and Andalusia 10–15
Putting Seville and
Andalusia on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of Andalusia 20–37
Andalusia Through the Year 38–43
The History of Seville
and Andalusia 44–61
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10 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
DISCOVERING SEVILLE
AND ANDALUSIA
The following tours have been designed to of Andalusia and also contains suggestions
take in as many of Andalusia’s highlights as for expanding it to a ten-day tour if desired.
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Finally, there is a two-week tour, which
to a minimum. First comes a two-day tour of rounds up all of the region’s most celebrated
Seville, the region’s alluring capital, followed attractions, including the Mezquita in
by a three-day tour, ideal if you are going to Córdoba and Granada’s magical Alhambra.
be spending a long weekend in the city. A Pick, combine and follow your favourite tours,
one-week tour covers some of the highlights or simply dip in and out and be inspired.
La Giralda
Named after its giraldillo, the
bronze weathervane which
depicts Faith, La Giralda is the
belltower of Seville’s cathedral.
Visitors can climb it to enjoy
magnificent views over
the city.
Espiel
Cazalla de la Sierra
Aracena Córdo
El Pedroso
Écija
•
Be enchanted by the Carmona
Andalusian capital of Seville,
Seville
crowned by an exquisite Pue
minaret-cum-belltower, Huelva G
La Giralda, and a superb Osuna
royal palace. Utrera
El Rocío
•
Walk the ancient streets of
Cádiz, one of the oldest
cities in Spain, and relax on Golfo de
its perfect beaches. Cádiz
Jerez de la Arcos de Á
•
Stroll around the vibrant Frontera la Frontera
Ronda
little city of Ronda, draped
around a steep gorge and
still boasting a wealth of fine
18th-century architecture. Cádiz
Gaucín
Jimena de Marbella
•
Hang out with the jet set in la Frontera
•
Explore the region’s beautiful capital, •
Admire the exquisite little Renaissance
Seville, famed for its superb art cities of Baeza and Úbeda, miraculously
and architecture. unchanged for centuries.
•
Listen to flamenco and try some •
Take a night tour around the magical
sherry in the delightful little city of palace of the Alhambra in Granada,
Jerez de la Frontera. the last city to fall to the Christian
•
Visit the wonderful, whitewashed town Monarchs in the 15th century.
of Vejer de la Frontera before heading •
Drive through the mountain villages of
to the picturesque, white-sand Las Alpujarras, which preserve their
beaches nearby. distinct architecture and local traditions.
•
Drive through hills carpeted in cork •
Enjoy one of the last stretches of unspoilt
trees and olive groves, admiring a string coastline on the Mediterranean in the
of Pueblos Blancos (white villages). Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata.
Vilches
Montoro
Baeza Úbeda
Andújar Puebla de
Don Fadrique
ba Cazorla
Jaén
Vélez
Pozo Alcón Blanco
A N D A L U S I A
Baza
Huércal-Overa
Iznalloz
Purchena
ente
enil Montefrío
Iznájar
Granada
Sorbas Mojácar
Trevélez Tabernas
Antequera Bubión
Capileira
El Torcal
Pampaneira
Lanjarón Almería
Álora
Almuñécar Cabo de Gata
Málaga
l
So
d el
sta
Key
A week in Seville and Andalusia
Two weeks in Seville and Andalusia
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, Córdoba
Set in enchanting gardens with water terraces and fountains, the
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, a 14th-century palace-fortress of the
Catholic Monarchs, offers visitors a tranquil atmosphere and city views.
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12 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Day 4: Ronda
Drive inland, stopping at
the beautiful, whitewashed
town of Arcos de la Frontera
(p179), crowned by a ruined
castle, then cross the north-
eastern swathe of the Sierra
de Grazalema nature reserve
(p24) to Ronda (pp180–181).
This exquisite little city
straddles a deep gorge,
spanned by a handsome
18th-century bridge, the
Stunning mountain views over the Sierra de Grazalema nature reserve, Ronda Puente Nuevo (p180).
Explore the elegant streets,
stucco and tiles by local artisans. Days 1 and 2: Seville flanked by palaces and
Then take a stroll in the Jardines Follow the two-day itinerary churches, and visit its historic
de Murillo (p85). on p12. bullring, considered to be
the home of bullfighting.
Day 3 Day 3: Cádiz
Morning Go for a wander in Take the A4/E5 motorway south Day 5: Marbella
La Macarena (pp90–91), one of Seville and drive to Cádiz An easy 40-minute drive
of Seville’s most appealing, (pp168–9). Spend the day will bring you to Marbella
traditional neighbourhoods, exploring this enchanting (pp186–7), which preserves
which is named for a much- ancient city, which is piled up a picturesque historic quarter
venerated statue of the Virgin on a long, narrow isthmus. and a fine main square shaded
held in the Basílica de la Amble through the narrow by orange trees. Long the
Macarena (p93). Visit the Palacio lanes of the historic quarter resort of choice for aristocrats
de Lebrija (p78), an aristocratic (pp170–1), visiting the atmos- and celebrities, it remains one
mansion containing a wealth of pheric market and the vast of the most chic towns on
archaeological treasures, then cathedral. Climb the Torre the Costa del Sol.
stop for lunch at one of the arty Tavira (p169), which contains
cafés near the Alameda de an enjoyable camera obscura, Day 6: Málaga
Hércules (p92). to take in the splendid views, A fast motorway links Marbella
and then spend an hour or two with Málaga, about 60 km
Afternoon Enjoy a peaceful soaking up the sunshine and (37 miles) up the coast.
stroll in the elegant Parque atmosphere on one of the Málaga (pp184–5) is a vibrant
María Luisa (pp102–3), with its city’s great beaches. and dynamic city which boasts
leafy avenues and tiled benches two exceptional museums –
and fountains. The park contains To extend your trip… the Museo de Picasso and
a pair of fine museums, both Head south down the coast the Museo Carmen Thyssen –
well worth a visit: the Museo de towards Tarifa (p173). Spend both are well worth a visit.
Artes y Costumbres Populares the night there, then head Following your museum
(p103) and the Museo Arque- up through the hills of the stint, scramble up to the
ológico (p103). In the evening, Parque Natural de Los striking clifftop fortress, the
head to the vibrant Triana area Alcornocales via Jimena de Alcazaba (p185), to enjoy
(p106–7) and take a tour of the la Frontera (p178) and the fabulous views and
many traditional tapas bars. Gaucín (p178) to Ronda. an interesting local
history museum.
A Week in Seville
and Andalusia
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville
airport, 10 km (6 miles)
northeast of the city centre,
and linked by a shuttle bus.
•
Transport The Seville
section can be done on foot,
but a car is essential for the
rest of this itinerary.
•
Booking ahead Essential
around time of Semana
Santa and Feria de Abril.
The Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares in the Parque María Luisa, Seville
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14 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Day 7: Córdoba
Drive north to Córdoba
(pp144–7), an enticing city still
suffused with the spirit of old
Al Andalus. The highlight is the
astounding Mezquita (pp148–9),
the vast mosque-turned-church Resplendent arches and pillars adorning the Mezquita, Córdoba
which dates back 12 centuries.
Explore the twisting lanes of the Day 1: Seville Day 5: Ronda to Marbella
Judería (p144), and visit the Pick some highlights from the After a morning spent strolling
impressive Alcázar de los two-day itinerary on p12. the elegant streets of Ronda,
Reyes Cristianos (p146), set drive to Marbella (pp186–7),
in enchanting gardens. Day 2: Seville to Cádiz one of the most attractive
Potter down to Jerez de la towns on the Costa del Sol.
2 Weeks in Seville Frontera (p166), cradle of A favourite with the jet set, it
and Andalusia flamenco and home to some boasts glossy marinas and fine
fine, sherry-producing bodegas beaches, but its appealing
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville (p167). Continue on to the historic quarter, with white-
airport, 10 km (6 miles) enchanting, sun-bleached city washed lanes and orange trees,
northeast of the city centre, of Cádiz (pp168–9), the oldest is still its best charming feature.
and linked by a shuttle bus. continually inhabited city in
•
Transport A car is essential Spain. Explore the dilapidated Day 6: Marbella to Málaga
for this tour. yet charming historic quarter Drive up the coast to the vibrant
(pp170–71), and tuck into some city of Málaga (pp184–5), which
•
Booking ahead
delicious seafood in one of its boasts great beaches and
Book Alhambra tickets in
traditional restaurants. nightlife as well as a host of
advance, particularly if you
cultural attractions. These are
want to do the night visit.
Day 3: Tarifa and the Costa spearheaded by the excellent
Tel: 34 958 92 60 31, or
de la Luz Museo de Picasso and the
online at ∑ alhambra-
Follow the coast south, Museo Carmen Thyssen
tickets.es. More information
stopping at hilltop Vejer de la (pp184–5), but do not miss a
at ∑ alhambra-
Frontera (p172) and perhaps visit to the clifftop Alcazaba
patronato.es
enjoy an hour or two on the (p185), an ancient fortress that
beaches at Zahara de los contains an interesting history
Atunes (p172). Tarifa (p173), at museum and offers sublime
the tip of Spain, is the country’s views over the city.
kite- and wind-surfing capital,
with a delightful, whitewashed Day 7: Málaga to Córdoba
old quarter and fabulous white- Drive north to the market
sand beaches. town of Antequera (p183),
where you can pick up some
Day 4: Pueblos Blancos picnic supplies before heading
to Ronda into the surreally beautiful,
Drive up through the forested if arid, landscape of El Torcal
hills of the Parque Natural de (p183) for a hike. Then continue
Los Alcornocales (p173), visiting north to Córdoba (pp144–9),
some of the area’s Pueblos where you should spend
Blancos (white villages, p178) the night.
on the way. Jimena de la
Frontera and Gaucín are two Day 8: Córdoba
of the prettiest. Spend the night Córdoba was once the capital
in Ronda (pp180–81), a hand- of a rich and powerful caliphate,
Garden views of the Palacio del Partal, the some town perched over and, although its influence has
oldest palace at the Alhambra, Granada a deep gorge. long since waned, it remains one
DISCOVERING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 15
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16 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA Portsmouth,
Plymouth
Ourense Burgos
Vigo
Palencia
Benavente
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Aranda de
Valladolid Peñafiel Duero
Braga
Zamora
Vila Real
Porto
Atlantic
Salamanca Segovia
Ocean
Aveiro
Ávila Guadalajara
Ciudad Rodrigo
MADRID
Madrid
Coimbra
Plasencia Talavera
de la Reina Aranjuez
Coria
Leiria Castelo
Branco
Toledo
Cáceres CASTILLA-LA
Trujillo
PORTUGAL
EXTREMADURA Tormelloso
Linares
Beja
Úbeda
Córdoba
Jaén
ANDALUSIA
Sevilla
Lagos Huelva
Estepa
Granada
Faro
Jerez de la
Frontera
Key Málaga Motril
Cádiz
Motorway
Marbella
Major road
International border Algeciras
Provincial border
Tangier
Ceuta
Canary Islands MOROCCO Melilla
For map symbols see back flap
PUT TING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA ON THE MAP 17
Brive-la-
Gaillarde
Aurillac
Bordeaux
Arcachon Montélimar
Cahors Rodez
Alès
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Montpellier
FRANCE
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San Béziers
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PAÍS
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ARAGÓN C ATA L U Ñ A Genoa, Livorno,
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Barcelona
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Sitges
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Tortosa
Benicarló
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MANCHA Mallorca
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PAÍS ISLAS
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MURCIA Murcia UNITED
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Cartagena GERMANY
BELGIUM
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SLOVAKIA
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Seville
Melilla, Nador
Ghazaouet
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18 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
ir
with the historic neighbourhoods on each side of Avenida
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residential areas surround the town centre. for the 1929 Exposition
PUT TING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA ON THE MAP 19
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A PORTRAIT
OF ANDALUSIA
Andalusia is where all Spain’s stereotypes appear to have come together.
Bullfighters, flamenco dancers, white villages and harsh sierras are all there
in abundance. But they form only part of an intricate tapestry. Beneath the
surface, expect to find many contradictions. Wherever you travel, particularly
when you escape from the tourist-engulfed coast, you will come across the
unexpected, whether it is a local fiesta or a breathtaking view.
Musicians, singers and dancers continuing a flamenco tradition that dates from the 18th century (see p32)
Moorish-style wooden ceiling in the Real Alcázar, Seville
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22 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Barren, remote countryside, one of the many faces of Andalusia’s varied landscape (see pp24–5)
home is still lower than in other countries the Virgin is also subject to a peculiar
of the West. Although many women have admiration from the male population.
a job in their twenties, they still give A man who never attends Mass may
up work when they marry in order be ecstatic about the Virgin of
to have children and look after his local church; when she
the house. emerges from the church in
Paradoxically, the mother procession, he feels fiercely
is an almost sacred figure possessive of her. If you try
in Andalusia, where family to think of the gorgeously
ties are written in blood. robed figure as a pagan
Although new affluence and earth mother or fertility
a steady movement to the goddess, the phenomenon
cities is now beginning to is much easier to understand.
erode old values, Andalusia As a society, Andalusia is
remains a traditional rural unafraid of its emotions, which
society with a distinct emphasis Sevillian lady in traditional are almost always near the
on personal relationships. Semana Santa dress (see p42) surface. There is no shame
Catholicism is Spain’s in the singing of a saeta, the
dominant religion, and adoration of “arrow” of praise launched at the Virgin
the Virgin is a striking feature of Andalusia. in Semana Santa (Holy Week), nor is
Apart from a purely religious devotion, there any ambivalence in the matador’s
desire to kill his antagonist, the bull.
The quintessence
of this is flamenco;
the pain and
passion of its
songs reflect
not just the
sufferings and
yearnings of
gypsies and the
poor, but also
Decorative tilework in the Palacio de Viana (see p147) Andalusia’s soul. Nun with convent jams
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24 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
O R
M
A A
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Sevilla Ge
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Huelva
Embalse del
Guadalhorce
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Río Gu
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Río
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DA alho
R ON rce
Cádiz DE
IA
AN
RR
SE
The Atlantic beaches, where The Río The Costa del Sol
pine trees grow behind the sand Guadalquivir and the rest of the
dunes, are less developed than runs through Mediterranean coast
the Mediterranean costas. Fishing the wetlands of Coto are mainly characterized
fleets from Cádiz and Huelva Doñana (see pp134–5) by arid cliffs draped in
operate offshore. before finally entering bougainvillea and other
the Atlantic Ocean. subtropical shrubs. The
beaches below are either
pebbly or of greyish sand.
E N A Tranco de Beas
is stripped every ten years.
ZO
A
C
E
D
RA A
ER UR
Jaén SI EG
D ES
R RA
SIE
Embalse de
Negratín
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26 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Moorish Architecture
The first significant period of Moorish architecture
arrived with the Cordoban Caliphate. The Mezquita was
extended lavishly during this period and possesses all
the enduring features of the Moorish style: arches,
stucco work and ornamental use of calligraphy. Later,
the Almohads imported a purer Islamic style, which can
be seen at La Giralda (see p82). The Nasrids built the
superbly crafted Alhambra in Granada, while the
mudéjares (see p28) used their skill to create beautiful
Moorish-style buildings such as the Palacio Pedro I,
part of Seville’s Real Alcázar (see also pp50–53).
Reflections in water combined
with an overall play of light were
central to Moorish architecture.
Moorish domes were
often unadorned on the Defensive
outside. Inside, however, an walls
intricate lattice of stone ribs
supported the dome’s weight.
Like this one in the Mezquita
(see pp148–9), they were
inlaid with multicoloured
mosaics featuring flower or
animal motifs.
Moorish gardens
were often arranged
around gently rippling
pools and channels.
Moorish Arches
The Moorish arch was developed from the horseshoe arch that the Visigoths used in the construction
of churches. The Moors modified it and used it as the basis of great architectural endeavours, such as
the Mezquita. Subsequent arches show more sophisticated ornamentation and the slow demise of the
basic horseshoe shape.
Caliphal arch, Medina Almohad arch, Patio Mudéjar arch, Salón de Nasrid arch, the
Azahara (see p142) del Yeso (see p87) Embajadores (see p87) Alhambra (see p199)
Moorish Palace
The palaces of the Moors were designed with gracious
living, culture and learning in mind. The imagined
palace here shows how space, light, water and
ornamentation were combined to harmonious effect.
Clay tiles
Arcaded galleries
Entrance halls were complex provided shade
to confuse unwanted visitors. around courtyards.
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28 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Post-Moorish Architecture
The Christian reconquest was followed by the building of new
churches and palaces, many by mudéjares (see p52). Later,
prejudice against the Moors grew as Christians began to assert
their faith. Gothic styles from northern Europe filtered into
Andalusia, though Mudéjar influences survived into the 18th
century. In the 16th century, Andalusia was the centre of the
Spanish Renaissance; and a uniquely Spanish interpretation Mudéjar tower, Iglesia de Santa
of the Baroque emerged in the 18th century. Ana (see p196)
Window openings
become progressively
narrower towards
ground level.
Islamic-style
decoration on
the main entrance is
characteristic of many
Mudéjar churches.
Guadix Cathedral
(see p204) comprises a
Renaissance building
fronted by a Baroque
façade. Such a
combination of styles is
very common in Andalusia.
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30 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Feria!
Bullfighting is an essential and
highly popular part of many ferias
in Spain. An enthusiastic and
very knowledgeable audience,
often in traditional dress, fills
the arenas from
the start of the
season in April
until its end in
October (see
pp42–3).
Banderilleros enter to provoke The matador makes passes with The estocada recibiendo is a
the wounded bull in the tercio de the cape in the tercio de muleta, difficult kill that is rarely seen.
banderillas, gauging its reaction then lowers it to make the bull The matador awaits the bull’s
to punishment by sticking pairs bow its head, and thrusts in the charge rather than moving
of banderillas in its back. sword for the kill. forwards to meet it.
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32 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Flamenco Rhythm
The unmistakable rhythm of flamenco is created by
the guitar. Just as important, however, is the beat
created by hand-clapping and by the dancer’s feet
in high-heeled shoes. The bailaoras may also beat a
rhythm with castanets; Lucero Tena (born in 1939) Castanets made
became famous for her solos on castanets. Graceful of wood
hand movements are used to express the dancer’s
feelings of the moment – whether pain, sorrow
or happiness. Hand and body movements
are choreographed, but styles vary
from person to person.
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34 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
)
71
E5
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Grape-drying is only
required for Pedro
Ximénez grapes. They
are laid on esparto mats
to shrivel in the sun,
concentrating the sugar
before they are pressed.
Crusher and
de-stemmer Grape-pressing and
de-stalking, in cylindrical
stainless steel vats, is usually
done at night to avoid the
searing Andalusian heat.
Grape-picking takes place
during the first three weeks in
September. Palomino grapes are
taken as quickly as possible to
the presses to ensure freshness.
Fermentation
vat in steel
Flor, a yeast, may form on the
exposed surface of young
wine in the fermentation vat,
preventing oxidization and
adding a delicate taste. If flor
develops, the wine is a fino.
Fortification is the addition
of pure grape spirit, raising the
level of alcohol from around
11 per cent by volume to
around 18 per cent for olorosos,
and 15.5 per cent for finos.
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36 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Real Club de
Golf Sevilla
See inset
C
o
Montecastillo Golf
st
a
Cádiz Marbella
Costa Natura
ta
Club de Golf Valderrama os
C
Golf La Alcaidesa
Caños de
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de
Tarifa
la
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L
Playa de los
Genoveses
Almería
La Herradura
Málaga
ia
Rincón de la sta de Almer
Tropical Co
Victoria Costa
l Sol
de
Torremolinos
Golf
Club Milas Golf Torrequebrado
La Cala Golf
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38 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
ANDALUSIA
THROUGH THE YEAR
Festivals and cultural events fill Andalusia’s ending of winter. Summer brings heat to the
calendar. Every town and village has an annual interior and crowds to the costas. Autumn is
feria (fair) with stalls, dancing, drinking, fire- greeted with more fiestas and heralds the
works and bullfights. These are held from April opening of music and theatre seasons. In
to October throughout Andalusia. There are winter, jazz, pop and classical concerts can
also many fiestas, all exuberant occasions be enjoyed in the cities. The first snow on
when religious devotion mixes with joie de the Sierra Nevada marks the start of the
vivre. Spring is an ideal time to visit; the skiing season. Note that dates for all events,
countryside is at its most beautiful, the climate especially fiestas, may change from year to
is mild and ferias and fiestas celebrate the year; check with the tourist board (see p257).
March
Cristo de la Expiración (Friday,
nine days before Palm Sunday),
Orgiva (see p204). One of
Andalusia’s most ear-splitting
fiestas; shotguns are fired and
rockets, gunpowder and
firecrackers are set off.
Semana Santa (Palm Sunday–
Good Friday). Seville celebrates Feria del Caballo, held in Jerez de la Frontera in May
ANDALUSIA THROUGH THE YEAR 39
June
Corpus Christi (late May or early
Jun) is commemorated in
Granada (see p43). In Seville,
the seises, young boys dressed
in doublet and hose, dance
before the cathedral altar. At
Zahara (see p178), near Ronda,
houses and streets are decked
out with greenery.
Noche de San Juan (23, 24 Jun).
The evening of 23 June sees
dancing, drinking and singing
around bonfires on beaches
across Andalusia in honour of St
John the Baptist. Lanjarón (see The Costa del Sol – popular with tourists and with the Spanish
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40 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
October
Fiesta del Vino (5–9 Oct), Cádiar
(see p205). A feature of this fiesta
in the mountains of the
Alpujarras is the construction
Chirimoya harvest on the subtropical coast at Almuñécar (see p193) of a fountain, which gushes
forth wine.
Fiestas Patronales de la Virgen Festival Iberoamericano de
Autumn de la Piedad (6 Sep), Baza (see Teatro (last two weeks of Oct),
This is a most pleasant time to p204). A bizarre fiesta in which Cádiz (see pp168–9). Latin
visit Andalusia. The weather is a figure known as Cascamorras American theatre festival.
settled, but without the searing comes from neighbouring
summer heat, and the holiday Guadix to try to steal a statue November
crowds are easing. Grape of the Virgin. Youths Festival Internacional de Jazz
harvests are in full swing covered with oil taunt (early Nov), Granada (see
and being celebrated him and chase him pp194–202) and Seville.
in towns and villages. out of town. He is Festival de Cine Ibero-
The theatres start to sent back to Guadix americano (last two weeks
open for drama and empty-handed, of Nov), Huelva (see p131).
concerts. Along the where he receives further Latin American film festival.
subtropical coast of punishment for
the Mediterranean, his failure.
sweet potatoes Moros y
and chirimoyas Moros y Cristianos Cristianos
(custard apples) fiesta, Válor (15 Sep), Válor (see
are harvested. p205). Re-creation of
Inland, mushrooms, freshly the Reconquest battles.
picked, feature on menus. Fiesta de la Vendimia (second
or third week of Sep), La Palma
September del Condado (see p133). A
Feria de Pedro Romero (first lively fiesta to bless the first
two weeks in Sep), Ronda grape juice.
(see pp180–81). This fiesta Romería de San Miguel (last
celebrates the founder of Sunday of Sep), Torremolinos
modern bullfighting (see p181). (see p186). One of the largest
All participants in the Corrida romerías in Andalusia.
Goyesca wear costumes Bienal de Arte Flamenco (last
reflecting the era of Goya, two weeks of Sep, even- Oil-covered youths chasing
a great bullfighting fan. numbered years), Seville. Cascamorras in Baza
ANDALUSIA THROUGH THE YEAR 41
December
La Inmaculada Concepción
(8 Dec), Seville. The tuna, groups
of wandering minstrels, take to
the streets around the Plaza
del Triunfo and Santa Cruz
(see pp76–7).
Fiesta de los Verdiales (28 Dec),
Málaga (see pp184–5). On Spain’s
equivalent of April Fool’s Day,
El Día de los Santos Inocentes,
thousands of town and country
folk gather at the Venta del
Túnel, on the outskirts of
Málaga. They come to hear Ski station on the snow-covered slopes of the Sierra Nevada (see p203)
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42 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Fiestas in Andalusia
There is nothing quite like a Spanish fiesta or feria, and a flamenco accent (out of
those of Andalusia are among the most colourful. Fiestas a thousand casetas, about a
may commemorate an historic event or a change of season. quarter are open to the public).
There are bullfights in the
More often they mark a religious occasion; Semana Santa
Maestranza bullring (see p72).
(Holy Week), for example, is celebrated all over Andalusia.
Feasting, dancing, singing, drinking – often right around
the clock – are all integral to a fiesta. At a feria there will Huelva and Sevilla
often be a decorated fairground, revellers dressed in One of Spain’s most popular
traditional flamenco attire, and processions of horses and fiestas, the Romería del Rocío,
is held during Pentecost. More
carriages. Throughout Andalusia you will also come across than 70 brotherhoods trek to
romerías, in which processions carry holy effigies through the shrine of El Rocío (see p133)
the countryside to a shrine. amid Las Marismas, the
marshlands at the mouth of
the Guadalquivir. They are
joined by pilgrims travelling
on horseback, on foot or by car.
All pay homage to the Virgen
del Rocío, also called the White
Dove or the Queen of the
Marshes. There is drinking and
dancing for several days and
nights, until the early hours of
Monday morning when the
Virgin is brought out of the
shrine. Young men from the
nearby town of Almonte carry
her through the crowds for
up to 12 hours, fighting off
anybody who tries to get near.
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INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 45
THE HISTORY OF
SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Andalusia’s early history is an extraordinary then in Seville, and, towards the end of
tale of ancient cities – Cádiz (see pp168–9), their almost 800-year rule, in the Nasrid
founded in 1100 BC, is the oldest city in kingdom of Granada.
Europe – and waves of settlers, each one After the fall of Granada to the Christians
contributing new ideas and customs. in 1492, Spain entered an era of expansion
Hominids first inhabited the region about and prosperity. The conquest of the New
one million years ago. Homo sapiens had World made Seville one of the most affluent
arrived by 25,000 BC, and by the Iron Age cities in Europe, but much of this wealth
a strong Iberian culture had emerged. was squandered on wars by the Habsburg
Later, trade and cultural links developed kings. By the 18th century, Spain had fallen
first with the Phoenicians, then with the into economic decline; in the 19th and
Greeks and Carthaginians. These ties and early 20th centuries poverty led to political
the abundance of natural raw materials, conflict and, ultimately, to the Civil War.
such as iron, gold and copper ore, made The years after the Civil War saw
this part of Iberia one of the wealthiest continuing poverty, though mass tourism
areas of the Mediterranean. in the 1960s and 1970s did much to ease
Attracted by its riches, the Romans this. With Franco’s death and Spain’s
made their first forays into southern Spain entry into the EU, the Spanish began
in 206 BC. They ruled for almost 700 years. to enjoy increasing prosperity and
Their place was eventually taken by the democratic freedoms. Andalusia still
Visigoths as the Western Roman Empire lagged behind, however. The Expo ‘92
crumbled in the 5th century AD. The Moors, was part of government policy to foster
who followed, flourished first in Córdoba, its economic growth.
The 16th-century port of Seville, where ships brought wealth from the Americas to the Holy Roman Empire
18th-century lithograph of the Puerta de la Justicia in the Alhambra (see pp198–9)
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46 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Early Andalusia
Neanderthals inhabited Gibraltar around 50,000 BC. Homo
sapiens arrived 25,000 years later and Neolithic tribespeople
from Africa settled in Spain from about 7000 BC. By the time
the Phoenicians arrived to trade in precious metals, they were
met by a sophisticated Iberian culture. They later established
trading links with the semi-mythical Iberian kingdom of
Tartessus. The Greeks, already settled in northeastern Spain, Areas of influence
started to colonize the south from about 600 BC. Meanwhile, Greek Phoenician
Celts from the north had mixed with Iberians. This culture,
influenced by the Greeks, created beautiful works of art.
The Carthaginians arrived in about 500 BC and,
according to legend, destroyed Tartessus. The short
sword and
shield denote an
Iberian warrior.
50,000 BC
Neanderthals 7000 BC Neolithic colonists arrive,
inhabit Gibraltar perhaps from North Africa. Farming Neolithic
begins on Iberian Peninsula ochre pot
THE HISTORY OF SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 47
Goddess Astarte
The Phoenicians founded Cádiz in Where to See
about 1100 BC. They brought their Early Andalusia
own goddess, Astarte, who became
popular across Andalusia as the region Cave paintings can be seen in the
absorbed eastern influences. Cueva de la Pileta near Ronda la
Vieja (p179). At Antequera (p183)
there are Bronze Age dolmens
dating from 2500 BC; at Los
Millares (p207) there are burial
chambers dating from the Copper
Age. The replicas of the famous
Tartessian Carambolo Treasure
The headdress shows are in the Museo Arqueológico
this is a votaress, The hand of in Seville (p101) and Iberian
devoted to her god. this priestess stone carvings from Porcuna
is raised in are exhibited in Jaén (p153).
benediction.
Greek Urn
The ancient
Greeks imported
many artifacts
from home; their
style of decoration
had a strong
influence on
Iberian art.
Dama de Baza
This female figure, dating
from around 500–400 BC,
may represent an Iberian
goddess. It is
one of several
such figures
found in
southern Spain.
Carambolo Treasure
Phoenician in style, this
treasure is from Tartessus.
Although many artifacts
have been uncovered,
the site of this kingdom
has yet to be found.
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48 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Hadrian
Emperors Hadrian and
Trajan were born in
Baetica. A great many
politicians, writers and
philosophers from the
province also moved to
Rome, some enjoying
great fortune.
Italica Reconstructed
Scipio Africanus founded Itálica
(see p136) in 206 BC after his defeat of
the Carthaginians. The city reached its
height in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD
and was the birthplace of the emperors
Hadrian and Trajan. Unlike Córdoba, it
Roman Mosaics in Andalusia was not built over in post-Roman times
Private houses, temples and public buildings all and today Itálica is a superbly
had mosaic floors. Many themes, from the gods preserved example of a Roman city.
to hunting, were represented.
Visigothic Crown
The jewelled pendants
on this crown form
the name, in Latin, of
the Visigothic king,
Recceswinth. The Roman ruins at Itálica
(see p136) are situated 9 km
(5.5 miles) north of Seville.
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50 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Apocalypse
An 11th-century account of an
8th-century text, Commentaries on the
Apocalypse by Beato de Liébana, this
illustration shows Christians going to war.
Bronze Stag
This 10th-century
caliphal-style bronze is
from Medina Azahara.
The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Abd al Rahman III began his palace of Medina Azahara
(see p142) in 936. This 19th-century painting by Dionisio
Baixeres shows a Byzantine envoy presenting the caliph
with the works of the Greek scientist Dioscorides. The
Moors of Córdoba possessed much knowledge of the
ancient world, which was later transmitted to Europe.
The Medina was sacked by Berber mercenaries in 1010.
711 Invasion under 785 Construction 822–52 Rule of 912–61 Rule of Abd
Tariq ben Ziyad of the Mezquita Abd al Rahman II al Rahman III
begins at Córdoba
961–76 Al Hakam II builds
710 First Moorish
Coin from the reign great library at Medina
intervention in Spain
of Abd al Rahman III Azahara; expands Mezquita
THE HISTORY OF SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 51
Clerics prepare
the manuscript
to be given to
Abd al Rahman III.
Cufic Script
Islamic artists, forbidden
to use representations of
the human figure, made
ample use of calligraphy
for decoration.
Irrigation in Al Andalus
The water wheel was vital to irrigation,
which the Moors used to grow newly
imported crops such as rice and oranges.
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52 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
The Reconquest
The war between Moors and Christians, which started in northern
Spain, arrived in Andalusia with a landmark Christian victory at
Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212; Seville and Córdoba fell soon
afterwards. By the late 13th century only the Nasrid kingdom of
Granada remained under Moorish control. Meanwhile, Christian
monarchs such as Alfonso X and Pedro I employed Mudéjar (see
p28) craftsmen to build churches and palaces in the reconquered Moorish Domain in 1350
territories – Mudéjar literally means “those permitted to stay”. Nasrid kingdom
Granada eventually fell in 1492 to Fernando and Isabel of Aragón
and Castilla, otherwise known as the Catholic Monarchs.
Boabdil
Cantigas of Alfonso X
Alfonso X, who won back
much of Andalusia from the
Moors, was an enlightened
Christian monarch. His
illuminated Cantigas are a
vivid account of life in
Reconquest Spain.
Where to See
Reconquest Andalusia
Many of the Reconquest
buildings in Andalusia are
Mudéjar in style (see p28). The
most notable are the Palacio
Pedro I in the Real Alcázar
(p87) and parts of the Casa de
Pilatos (p81), both in Seville.
Christian churches built in
Chivalry Andalusia during the 13th, 14th
The Moors lived by chivalric codes – and 15th centuries are also either
this jousting scene is in the Sala de completely Mudéjar in style or
los Reyes in the Alhambra (see p199). have Mudéjar features such as a
minaret-like bell tower or portal;
Nasrid warriors as, for example, the Iglesia de San
Marcos (p94) in Seville. During this
period the Nasrids of Granada
built the most outstanding
Crown example of Moorish architecture
This Mudéjar-style crown, in Spain, the Alhambra and
bearing the coats of Generalife (pp198–202). Seville
arms of Castilla and León, Cathedral (pp82–3) was const-
is made of silver, ivory ructed in the 15th century as a
and coral. high Gothic assertion of the
Catholic faith.
Astrolabe
As this 15th-century
navigation tool shows,
the Moors had great
technical expertise.
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54 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Carlos I (1516–56)
Carlos I of Spain
was made Holy
Roman Emperor
Carlos V in 1521.
His election
enabled the
Holy Roman
Empire to gain
access to the
immense wealth
that Spain, Seville
in particular,
generated at
this time.
1502 Moors rebel 1516 Death of Seville 1588 Spanish Armada fails in attack on England
in Las Alpujarras Fernando Inquisition
(see pp204–5); banner 1559 Inquisition 1587 Cádiz raided by Francis Drake
they are baptized persecutes
1519 Hernán Cortés 1580 Seville becomes
or expelled by Protestants
conquers Mexico largest city in Spain
the Inquisition in Seville
1500 1525 1550 1575
Inquisition
Fears of heresy laid the Where to See the
ground for the Spanish Golden Age in
Inquisition to be set up
in the 15th century. In
Andalusia
the 16th century autos- The Isabelline style (see p28),
da-fé (trials of faith) were lasting testament to nationalistic
held in Seville in the fervour of the early 16th century,
Plaza de San Francisco can be seen in the Capilla Real
(see p78). (p194) in Granada and the Palacio
de Jabalquinto in Baeza (pp156–7).
Baeza and Úbeda (pp158–9) both
prospered during the Renaissance
Unloading and in Spain and contain some of the
loading took place best architecture of this period in
virtually in the heart Andalusia. The Plateresque (p29)
of the city. façade of the Ayuntamiento
(pp78–9) in Seville is a good
example of the style, while
the Palacio Carlos V (p195) in
Granada is the best example of
Velázquez Classical Renaissance architecture
Born in Seville in in Spain. The Archivo de Indias
1599, Diego (pp84–5) was built according to
Velázquez painted the principles of Herreran style
his earliest works in (p29). The Hospital de la Caridad
the city, but later (p73) is a fine 17th-century
became a court Baroque building.
painter in Madrid.
This crucifix is a
detail of a painting
he made at the
behest of Felipe IV.
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56 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Bourbon Kings
The 13-year War of the Spanish Succession saw Bourbons on
the throne in place of the Habsburgs and, under the Treaty of
Utrecht, the loss of Gibraltar to the British (see p176). Later,
ties with France dragged Spain into the Napoleonic Wars:
following the Battle of Trafalgar, the Spanish king Carlos IV
abdicated and Napoleon Bonaparte placed his brother
Joseph on the Spanish throne. The Peninsular War ensued Spain in Europe (1812)
and, with British help, the French were driven out of Spain. Napoleonic dependencies
Romantic Andalusia
Andalusia’s Moorish legacy
helped to establish it as a land
of beauty and myth, making
it popular with travellers of
the Romantic era.
The Constitution is
proclaimed to the
people of Cádiz.
Carlos III
A Bourbon monarch of
the Enlightenment and
an innovator
in matters of
society and
science, Carlos III
The 1812 Constitution
tried to establish During the Peninsular War, Spain’s Parliament met
colonies of in Cádiz, and in 1812 produced an advanced liberal
farm workers constitution. However, after the Bourbon restoration in
in the sparsely 1814, Fernando VII banned all liberal activity. Ironically,
populated during the First Carlist War, Fernando’s daughter, Isabel II,
Sierra Morena. contesting her right to the throne against her uncle Don
Carlos, turned to the liberals for support.
Battle of Bailén
In 1808, at Bailén, a Where to See
Spanish army comprising
local militias beat
Bourbon Andalusia
Napoleon’s experienced Eighteenth-century Baroque
French army, taking architecture can be seen all over
22,000 prisoners. Andalusia. The prime examples
in Seville are the former Royal
Tobacco Factory, now the city’s
Universidad (see pp100–101),
and the Plaza de Toros de la
Maestranza (p72). Osuna (p137),
Battle of Trafalgar
Écija (p137) and Priego de
In 1805, the Spanish, allied at
Córdoba (p154) all have fine
the time to Napoleon, lost
examples of the style. The
their fleet to the British
lower levels of Cádiz Cathedral
admiral, Nelson.
(p168) are the most complete
example of a Baroque church
found in Spain. The Puente
Isabel II (p107) is a fine showcase
of 19th-century arquitectura de
hierro (iron architecture).
Support
for the
constitution
came from
a wide
section of
society,
including
women.
The Puente Isabel II is an
example of the architecture of
Andalusia’s “industrial” age.
Washington Irving
In Tales of the Alhambra
(1832) the American
diplomat Washington
Irving perpetuated a
highly romanticized
view of Andalusia.
1873–4 First
1808 Joseph 1812 Liberal constitution Isabel II 1870–73 Reign of King
Republic,
Bonaparte made drawn up in Cádiz Amadeo of Savoy
proclaimed
king of Spain.
after Amadeo
Battle of Bailén 1814–33 (Bourbon restoration) 1868 Isabel II loses her
abdicates
Reign of Fernando VII throne in “glorious” revolution
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58 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Moorish Revival
By the late 19th century,
regionalism, andalucismo, led
to a revival of Moorish-style
architecture. An example is
Seville’s Estación de Córdoba.
Picasso
Pablo Picasso,
shown in this
self-portrait, was The Republican Army
born in Málaga
In Andalusia, Franco attacked the Republican army
in 1881. His most
famous work, at the very start of the war. Cádiz and Seville fell to
Guernica, depicts Nationalists, but other Andalusian towns held out
the tragic effects longer. Franco seized Málaga in 1937, executing
of the Civil War. thousands of Republicans.
Where to See
Early 20th-Century
Architecture in Andalusia
Casas Viejas
In 1933, peasants were This period is characterized by
massacred after an uprising architectural revivals. The
by anarchists at Casas Viejas regionalist style can be seen at
in the province of Cádiz. the Plaza de España (see p102), the
The incident further served Museo Arqueológico (p103), and
to undermine the the Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Republican government. Populares (p103), all in the Parque
María Luisa. The Teatro Lope Vega
(p101) is in a Neo-Baroque style.
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60 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Modern Andalusia
By 1945 Spain remained the only Nationalist state in Europe.
When Franco died in 1975 and Juan Carlos I came to the
throne, the regions clamoured for devolution from Franco’s
centralized government. In 1982, the Sevillian Felipe González
came to power and, in the same year, Andalusia became an
autonomous region. Spain joined the European Union in 1986
and benefitting from European investors, the 1990s saw econo- Autonomous regions
mic growth. This continued until the global financial meltdown Present-day Andalusia
New Bridges
Despite its autonomy, Andalusia still
lagged behind much of the rest of Spain
economically. Funds were provided by
The Hungry Years central government to build the new
After the Civil War, Spain was isolated from Europe infrastructure needed to support
and after World War II, received no aid; amid Expo ’92. Five bridges, all of the most
widespread poverty and rationing, many
innovative, modern design, were
Andalusians left to work abroad.
built over the Guadalquivir river.
1975 Franco
1940–53 The 1962 Development of dies. Third
Hungry Years Costa del Sol begins Bourbon
Franco meets restoration; Juan
American President 1969 Spain closes its
Carlos I accedes
Eisenhower (1953) border with Gibraltar to the throne
THE HISTORY OF SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 61
Package Holidays
Buildings for mass tourism
transformed Andalusia’s coast.
The Omnimax cinema on the
former Expo ’92 site was
originally built as part of the
Pavilion of Discoveries.
Felipe González
In 1982, the year after an
attempted coup by the
Civil Guard colonel Expo ’92
Antonio Tejero, Felipe Hosted by Seville, Expo ’92 placed
González, leader of the Andalusia at the centre of a world
socialist PSOE, claimed stage. However, the city was left in
a huge electoral victory. debt for several years.
1982 Felipe González elected prime 2004 The Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party wins the general
minister; Andalusia becomes an 1996 In the general elections, a result that defies most predictions
autonomous region election González
loses to a coalition 2006 Seville FC 2013 Spanish unemployment reaches
1985 Spain-Gibraltar are the UEFA Cup record high, youth unemployment
led by Aznar
border opens champions stands at 50 per cent
1990 2000 2010 2020
1981 Colonel Tejero 2002 Spain converts 2009 Andalusia’s first subway
attempts coup and holds to the euro system opens in Seville
Spanish Parliament
hostage; Juan Carlos 2006 In March, the Basque 2007 Madrid to Málaga high-
intervenes terrorist organization ETA speed AVE train line opens
Colonel Tejero announces a permanent ceasefire
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SEVILLE
AREA BY AREA
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64 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Seville at a Glance
The capital of Andalusia is a compact and relaxing city with a rich
cultural heritage. Conveniently, many of its principal sights can be
found within or very near the city centre, which is set on the east bank
of the Río Guadalquivir. Most visitors head straight for the cathedral
and La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Museo de Bellas Artes. Among
other highly popular monuments are the exquisite Renaissance
palace of Casa de Pilatos and Seville’s bullring, the Plaza de
Toros de la Maestranza. There are, however, many other
churches, monuments and neighbourhoods to discover
in the four central areas described in this section, and
more, further afield, across the river.
El Arenal
Pages 66–73
The splendid ceiling of Museo de
Bellas Artes (see pp70–71)
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza seen The Moorish Torre del Oro, built to
from the river (see p72) defend Seville (see p73)
Aerial view of Santa Cruz area, with La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Archivo de Indias in foreground
S E V I L L E AT A G L A N C E 65
Santa Cruz
Pages 74–87 The impressive wooden structure of the Metropol Parasol,
located in Plaza de la Encarnación, acts as a grand gateway
to La Macarena (see p89)
Parque
María Luisa
Pages 96–103
Plaza de España in the green oasis of Parque Patio of Real Fábrica de Tabacos, today
María Luisa (see pp102–3) the Universidad (see p100)
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 67
EL ARENAL
Bounded by the Río Guadalquivir and navigable glory just in time for Expo ’92.
guarded by the mighty 13th-century Torre The east riverfront was transformed into a
del Oro, El Arenal used to be a district of tree-lined, shady promenade with excellent
munitions stores and shipyards. Today, this views of Triana and La Cartuja across the river
quarter is dominated by the dazzling white (see pp106–9). Boat trips and sightseeing
bullring, Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, tours depart from the Torre del Oro. Close by
where the Sevillians have been staging is the smart Teatro de la Maestranza, where
corridas for more than two centuries. opera, classical music and dance take place
The many classic bars and wine cellars before discerning audiences.
in neighbouring streets get extra busy The Hospital de la Caridad testifies to the
during the summer bullfighting season. city’s continuing love affair with the Baroque.
Once central to the city’s life, the influence Its church is filled with famous paintings by
of the Guadalquivir declined as it silted up Murillo, and the story of the Seville School is
during the 17th century. By then, El Arenal told with pride in the immaculately restored
had become a notorious underworld haunt Museo de Bellas Artes further north. The
clinging to the city walls. After being city’s stunning collection of great works by
converted into a canal in the early 20th Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal is reason
century, the river was restored to its former enough to visit Seville.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings
3 Plaza de Toros
de la Maestranza
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See also Street Finder
0 yards 400 maps 1, 3, 5
The striking Baroque domed ceiling of the Museo de Bellas Artes For map symbols see back flap
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68 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Street-by-Street: El Arenal
Once home to the port of Seville, El Arenal also housed
the artillery headquarters and ammunition works. Now
its atmosphere is set by Seville’s bullring, the majestic
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, which is located here.
During the bullfighting season (see pp30–31) bars and
restaurants are packed, but for the rest of the year the
backstreets remain quiet. The riverfront is dominated
by one of Seville’s best-known monuments, the Moorish 3 . Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Torre del Oro, while the long, tree-lined promenade Seville’s 18th-century bullring, one of
beside Paseo de Cristóbal Colón is the perfect setting Spain’s oldest, has a Baroque façade in
white and ochre.
for a romantic walk along the Guadalquivir.
RIA NO
DE AD
Carmen (see p100), CALLE
sculpted in bronze,
stands opposite
the bullring.
Z
IA
D
IA
N
TO
AN
E
LL
CA
PA
SE
O
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CR
IS
TO
BA
L
CO
LO
N
Paseo Alcalde
Marqués de Contadero
4 Teatro de la Maestranza
This showpiece theatre and opera house
opened in 1991. Home of the Orquesta
Sinfónica de Sevilla, it also hosts international
opera and dance companies.
0 metres 75
0 yards 75
The Guadalquivir
The river used to cause catastrophic inundations.
After floods in 1947, a barrage was constructed.
Today, peaceful boat trips start from the Torre del Oro.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228
EL ARENAL 69
El Buzo LA MACARENA
This is one of many
traditional restaurants EL ARENAL
situated on or just off SANTA CRUZ
Calle Arfe. Nearby lies
Gu
Mesón Sevilla Jabugo I,
ad
al
where jamón ibérico
qu
ivi
r
(see p222) is served.
PARQUE
MARIA LUISA
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 5
El Postigo is an arts
and crafts market. ESA
INU
GA RCIA V
To Seville Cathedral
AV E N
IDA DE
L A CONST
ITU
TO M
CION
AS D
E IB
O
AY
RRAA
M
E
D 5 . Hospital de la Caridad
S The Baroque church of this
O hospice for the elderly is
D
lined with paintings by
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo
TE
To Real Alcázar
Key
Suggested route
R
DE
AN
NT
SA
L LE
CA
Maestranza
de Artillería
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70 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
11
10
Gallery Guide
Signs provide a self-guided
chronological tour through
the museum’s 14 galleries, First floor
starting by the Claustro del
Aljibe. Works downstairs
The Claustro de los
progress from the 14th century
Bojes is enclosed by
through to Baroque; those Tuscan-style arches.
upstairs from the Baroque
to the early 20th century. 4
La Inmaculada
This stirring Inmaculada
(1672), by Valdés Leal
(1622–90) is in Sala 8, a
gallery devoted to the artist’s
2
forceful religious paintings.
14
. Domed Ceiling
The magnificent ceiling of
the convent church, now
12 restored to its Baroque glory,
13
was painted by Domingo
Martínez in the 18th century.
e m for
disabled
Apoteosis de Santo
Tomás de Aquino
Zurbarán accomplished this
work in 1631, at the age of 33.
His sharp characterization of
the figures and vivid use of
colour bring it to life, as can
be seen on this detail.
Entrance
md=
1
Key to Floorplan
Medieval art
Renaissance art
Patio del Aljibe Baroque art . Claustro Mayor
The main cloister of the monastery
19th- and 20th-century art
was remodelled by architect
Ground floor Non-exhibition space Leonardo de Figueroa in 1724.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228
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72 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Finis Gloriae Mundi by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de la Caridad In Moorish times the Tower of
Gold formed part of the walled
style by architects Luis Marín some of the leading artists of defences, linking up with the
de Terán and Aurelio del Pozo. the 17th century, despite the Real Alcázar (see pp86–7) and
Ironwork remnants of the fact that some of its greatest the rest of the city walls. It was
19th-century ammunition artworks were looted by Marshal built as a defensive lookout in
works that first occupied the Soult at the time of the 1220, when Seville was under
site decorate the river façade. Napoleonic occupation of the rule of the Almohads
Tickets are sold from the box 1810 (see p57). Immediately (see pp50–51), and had a
office in the adjacent Jardín above the entrance is the companion tower on
de la Caridad. ghoulish Finis Gloriae Mundi the opposite river bank.
(The End of the World’s A mighty chain would be
Glories) by Juan de stretched between
5 Hospital Valdés Leal, while the two to prevent
de la Caridad opposite hangs his ships from sailing
Calle Temprado 3. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
morbid In Ictu Oculi upriver. In 1760 the
Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de (In the Blink of an turret was added.
Jerez. @ C3, C4. Tel 954 22 32 32. Eye). Many of the The gold in the
Open 9am–1pm, 3:30–7:30pm other works are by tower’s name may
daily. & Murillo, including refer to gilded
St John of God azulejos that once
Founded in 1674, this charity Carrying a Sick Man, clad its walls, or to
hospital is still used today as a portraits of the The Torre del Oro, built New World treasures
sanctuary for the elderly and Child Jesus, St John by the Almohads unloaded here. The
the infirm. In the gardens the Baptist as a Boy tower has had many
opposite the entrance stands a and St Isabel of Hungary Curing uses, but is now the Museo
statue of its benefactor, Miguel the Lepers. Looking south from Marítimo, exhibiting maritime
de Mañara. The complex was the hospital’s entrance you can maps and antiques.
designed by Pedro Sánchez
Falconete. The façade of the
hospital church, with its
Don Juan of Seville
whitewashed walls, terracotta Miguel de Mañara (1626–79),
stonework and framed azulejos founder and subsequent
(see p80) provides a glorious benefactor of the Hospital de la
example of Sevillian Baroque. Caridad, is frequently linked with
Inside are two square patios Don Juan Tenorio. The amorous
adorned with plants, conquests of the legendary
18th-century Dutch azulejos Sevillian seducer were first
and fountains with Italian documented in 1630 in a play by
Tirso de Molina. They have since
statues depicting Charity and
inspired works by Mozart, Molière,
Mercy. At their northern end a
Byron and Shaw. Mañara is
passage to the right leads to thought to have led an equally
another patio, where a dissolute life prior to his conversion
13th-century arch from the to philanthropy – apparently this
city’s shipyards survives. A bust was prompted by a premonition
of Mañara stands amid rose of his own funeral which he The legendary Don Juan
bushes. Inside the church there experienced one drunken night. with two of his conquests
are many original canvases by
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 75
SANTA CRUZ
The Barrio de Santa Cruz, Seville’s old Jewish Esteban Murillo lived here in the 17th century
quarter, is a warren of white alleys and patios while his contemporary, Juan de Valdés Leal,
that has long been the most picturesque decorated the Hospital de los Venerables
corner of the city. Many of the best-known with fine Baroque frescoes.
sights are grouped here: the cavernous Further north, busy Calle Sierpes is one of
Gothic cathedral with its landmark Giralda; Seville’s favourite shopping streets. Its
the splendid Real Alcázar with the royal adjacent market squares, such as the
palaces and lush Jardines del Alcázar; and charming Plaza del Salvador, provided
the Archivo de Indias, whose documents backdrops for Cervantes’ stories. Nearby,
tell of Spain’s exploration and conquest of the ornate façades and interiors of the
the New World. Ayuntamiento and the Casa de Pilatos, a
Spreading northeast from these great gem of Andalusian architecture, testify to
monuments is an enchanting maze of the great wealth and artistry that flowed
whitewashed streets. The artist Bartolomé into the city in the 16th century.
LARAÑA JUAN DE
MESA JAU
REG
UI
D IE G
Sights at a Glance
IMA O
GEN AR MER DE
CUNA
CA AP LO Streets, Squares
A
PL SAN LL ILE
NDIG
GO JOSE LU PEDRO E S
AZA
A
FRAN
LL
NE E
TA
DO
E
ALHO
CALLE VELAZ
SA
AR R OS
CRISTO DE
CALLE DE RECARE
CAL
NT
PEREZ
LA GA R
BURGOS IA 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
LE S
SC
LO S N AV
G
A
O
CA LL NZ
LINEROS
CI
CU NA
IE RP E
E LA
DO S
L LE
N
I
B O TERO e Jardines de Murillo
RA
S F CA RIA
GAL
M
Q
B LE
PE
A LL
S
RO
LLE DE
CA
UEZ T
RI
Churches
RE
A AL
SA GA STPL DEL
ER
AL
HUE LVA FA
OD
IZA
LFA
SALVADOR CAL
CA
VIL LEG AS
EY
MANUEL SAN
ESTE
7 Seville Cathedral and
L R
LIR
CORTINA
VIRGENES
BA
ISIDOR N
A NCOS
CALLE SAN
DE
CALLE ALVAREZ Q U IN
MUÑ
IO
O
COS
RI
O La Giralda pp82–3
MAR R
D
VI
M
E DE IBAR
L
OZ
ND
RA
RA
S
R CO Historic Buildings
E
LE DE FR
ORE
PA
CO
Y
LL
B ON
CA
PL DE SAN
RAD
1 Palacio de Lebrija
FEDERICO
FRANCISCO PL DE LAS
RUBIO
SA N
CA MERCEDARIAS
A
UR
VIE DE
IN
LL
AV D A D E
CAL
3 Ayuntamiento
H E R O LO N
EA
YO
ES
OL
PL Z
LE LLE
IRE
S
C
TERO
JOS
AD
N AND
CA
E
E D 5 Museo del Baile Flamenco
LA
G
OT EL UZM
C A L L E AB
ES
E
RG BU AN
ED
6 Casa de Pilatos
PE
O
EN
SP
FA
O
A
BIO
LA CONST
SA
CE
L
0 Archivo de Indias
NT
AN
ETO
OS
A
ALEM ANES G
A
EL
GO
ER
CU
ES
EZ
O
AR
PL VIRGEN
CH
GA
C IS AR
OY
EN
ÍA
MAT DE
C
UC
LA
N
ITU
EZ
R
EN S ES LA CA
B
NC
NE
XIM
CION
TA
A
TER
ME
ESA
ALFARO 1 Albarama
JUD
JARDINES
Archivo UA
AG DE MURILLO 2 La Albahaca
ERIA
de Indias
E
3 Berrecita
LL
PLAZA
CONTRATACION 4 Casa Plácido
CA
5 Casa Robles
J A R D IN E S D E L
ALCÁZAR 6 Corral del Agua
Puerta
PUERTA de Jerez 7 Don Raimundo
DE JEREZ
8 Doña Elvira
CAL
LE 9 Egaña Santo
SAN
FER
NAN 10 El Giraldillo
DO PL DON
JUAN DE
AUSTRIA 11 El Modesto
12 Oriza
13 San Marco
14 Santa Cruz
15 Vineria San Telmo
0 metres 400
See also Street Finder
maps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 0 yards 400
Baths of Doña María de Padilla, beneath the Patio del Crucero, in the Real Alcázar For map symbols see back flap
www.ebook3000.com
76 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
OS
M AT E
Convento de la
Encarnación (see p84)
AV
EN
IDA
DE
L A CONS
BE
RU
U
M
O
T
ER
ITU
M
RO
CIO
N
7 . Seville Cathedral
and La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral AS
M
and its Moorish bell tower are TO
A
O
AR
9 Plaza
del Triunfo
A Baroque
column celebrates
the city’s survival of
the great arthquake
of 1755. Opposite
0 Archivo de Indias is a modern statue
Built in the 16th century as a merchants’ exchange, of the Immaculate
the Archive of the Indies now houses documents Conception.
relating to the Spanish colonization of the Americas.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9
S A N TA C R U Z 77
Gu
ad
al
qu
ivi
r
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 5–6
AN
CI
S
EN
TA T
O Z ER
G E
GA E NE
SA
M
XI
RO
A
DR
AZ
PL
IGO CAR
JA
UZ
LO
SO
M
NO CR
PE
ER
I TA
RE E
DA
RU S
O
NA
E
D
A
A
RI
LO
JU
G
ST
IN
O
DE
A w . Hospital
NE
Ñ
O
D IRA UA de los Venerables
VE
P L LV AG
L This 17th-century
PI
E
DE
SU
N
IE
O
NT
EJ
NA
CA Baroque church.
VI
DA
0 metres 50
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78 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
4 Iglesia del
Salvador
Pl del Salvador. Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel
954 21 16 79. Open 11am–8:30pm
Mon–Sat, 3–7pm Sun. &
www.ebook3000.com
80 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Mudejar-Style Azulejos
The Moors created fantastic mosaics
of tiles in sophisticated geometric
patterns as decoration for their palace
walls. The colours used were blue,
green, black, white and ochre.
16th-century Mudéjar tiles, Interlacing motifs, Mudéjar tiles in the Patio de las
Casa de Pilatos Patio de las Doncellas Doncellas, Real Alcázar
Azulejos for
Commercial Use
As techniques for making
and colouring azulejos
improved, their use was
extended from interior
decor to decorative signs
and shop façades. Even
billboards were produced in
multicoloured tiles. The eye-
catching results can still be
seen all over Andalusia.
Sign for the Royal Tobacco Factory (now part of the Universidad, see pp100–101)
made in painted glazed tiles in the 18th century
Contemporary glazed Azulejo billboard advertising the latest model of Studebaker Motor Cars (1924),
ceramic beer tap situated on Calle Tetuán, off Calle Sierpes (see p78)
S A N TA C R U Z 81
Genoan fountain and Gothic balustrades in the Mudéjar Patio Principal of the Casa de Pilatos
. La Giralda
The Rise of La Giralda The bell tower is
The minaret was finished in 1198. In the 14th century crowned by a bronze
the original Muslim bronze spheres at its top were weathervane (giraldillo)
replaced by Christian symbols. In 1568 Hernán depicting Faith, from
Ruiz added the Renaissance belfry, which blends which it takes its name.
perfectly with the Moorish base. A replica has replaced
the original vane.
Group entrance
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Avenida de la Constitucion s/n.
Retablo Mayor Map 3 C2 (5 C4). Tel 902 09 96 92.
Santa María de la Sede, Open Cathedral & La Giralda:
the cathedral’s patron 11am–3:30pm Mon, 11am–5pm
saint, sits at the high Tue–Sat, 2:30–6pm Sun. & 8
altar below a waterfall of 7 5 Cathedral: 8–10:30am
gold. The 44 gilded relief (8–9am in summer); Capilla Real:
panels of the retablo 8am–2pm, 4–7pm.
were carved by Spanish ∑ catedraldesevilla.es
and Flemish sculptors
Transport
between 1482 and 1564.
v Archivo de Indias.
Puerta de Jerez.
Main entrance
Puerta de la Asunción
Though Gothic in style, this portal
was not completed until 1833.
A stone relief of the Assumption
of the Virgin decorates
the tympanum.
. Capilla Mayor
The overwhelming, golden
Retablo Mayor in the main chapel
is enclosed by monumental iron
grilles forged in 1518–32.
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84 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
is honoured by a Baroque
column beside the Archivo de
Indias. In the centre of the Plaza
del Triunfo a monument comm-
emorates Seville’s belief in the
Immaculate Conception.
In Calle Santo Tomás, off the
southeastern corner of the Plaza
del Triunfo, lies a building used
by the Archivo de Indias.
Formerly the Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo – now in the
Monasterio de Santa Mariá de
las Cuevas (see p109) – the
building is no longer open to
the public. Dating from 1770, it
was once a barn where tithes
collected by the Church were
stored. Parts of the Moorish city
walls were uncovered during
the renovation of the building.
0 Archivo de Indias
Avda de la Constitución s/n.
Map 3 C2 (6 D5). v Archivo de
Indias. Puerta de Jerez. Tel 954 50
Baroque façade of the Palacio Arzobispal 05 28. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
10am– 2pm Sun.
8 Plaza Virgen de the square is the whitewashed
Convento de la Encarnación,
los Reyes which was founded in 1591.
Map 3 C2 (6 D4). Palacio Arzobispal The convent stands on grounds
Closed to the public. Convento de la that have also been the site of
Encarnación Closed to the public. a mosque and of a hospital.
The Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
The perfect place to pause for was once home to the Corral
a while and admire the Giralda de los Olmos, a rogues’ inn
(see p82), this plaza presents an which features in the writings
archetypal Sevillian tableau: of Miguel de Cervantes (see p55)
horse-drawn carriages, orange – on one of the convent walls a
trees, flower-sellers and plaque bears an inscription
imposing religious buildings. testifying to this.
At its centre is an early 20th-
century monumental lamppost
and fountain by José Lafita, with 9 Plaza del Triunfo Façade of the Archivo de Indias by
grotesque heads copied from Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
Juan de Herrera
Roman originals in the Casa de
Pilatos (see p81). Lying between the cathedral The archive of the Indies punches
At the north of the square (see pp82–3) and the Real home Seville’s pre-eminent role in
is the Palacio Arzobispal Alcázar (see pp86–7), the Plaza the colonization and exploitation
(Archbishop’s Palace), begun del Triunfo was built to celebrate of the New World. Built between
in the 16th century, finished in the triumph of the city over an 1584–98 to designs by Juan de
the 18th, and commandeered earthquake in 1755. The quake Herrera, co-architect of El Escorial
by Marshal Soult during the devastated the city of Lisbon, near Madrid, it was originally a
Napoleonic occupation of over the border in Portugal, lonja (exchange), where
1810 (see pp56–7). A fine but caused comparatively merchants traded. In 1785, Carlos
Baroque palace, little damage III had all Spanish documents
it has a jasper in Seville – relating to the “Indies” collected
staircase and a salvation under one roof, creating a
paintings by attributed to fascinating archive. It contains
Zurbarán and the city’s great letters from Columbus, Cortés,
Murillo. On the Decorative Giralda relief on the devotion to the Cervantes, and George
opposite side of Archivo de Indias Virgin Mary. She Washington, the first American
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9
S A N TA C R U Z 85
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86 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
q Real Alcázar
In 1364 Pedro I (see p52) ordered the construction of a royal
residence within the palaces built by the city’s Almohad rulers
(see pp50–51). Within two years, craftsmen from Granada and
Toledo had created a jewel box of Mudéjar patios and halls,
the Palacio Pedro I, which now forms the heart of Seville’s
Real Alcázar. Later monarchs added their own distinguishing
marks – Isabel I (see p52) despatched navigators to explore the
New World from her Casa de la Contratación, while Carlos V
(see p54) had grandiose, richly decorated apartments built.
. Salones de Carlos V
Vast tapestries and lively
16th-century azulejos
decorate the vaulted
halls of the apartments
and chapel of Carlos V.
KEY
Horseshoe Arches
Azulejos and complex
plasterwork decorate the
Ambassadors’ Hall, which has
three symmetrically arranged,
ornate archways, each with
three horseshoe arches.
Puerta del
León (entrance)
Plan of the
Real Alcázar
The complex includes
the Palacio Pedro I
and Spanish
National Trust
offices. The
palace’s upper
floor is used by
the Spanish
royal family
Key during visits to
Patio del Yeso the city.
Area illustrated above
The Patio of Plaster, a garden with flower
beds and a water channel, retains features of Gardens
the earlier, 12th-century Almohad Alcázar.
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 89
LA MACARENA
The north of Seville, often overlooked by modern church stands a restored entrance
visitors, presents a characterful mix of gate and remnants of defensive walls, which
decaying Baroque and Mudéjar churches, old- enclosed the city during the Moorish era.
style neighbourhood tapas bars and washing- Among many churches and convents
filled back streets. Its name is thought to in this quarter, the Monasterio de San
derive from the Roman goddess, Macaria, the Clemente and Iglesia de San Pedro retain the
daughter of the hero Hercules. La Macarena is spirit of historic Seville, while the Convento
a traditional district and the power of church de Santa Paula offers a rare opportunity to
and family is still strong there. peep behind the walls of a closed religious
The futuristic Metropol Parasol, a buzzing community. The 13th-century Torre de Don
urban space opened in 2011, makes for a Fadrique in Convento de Santa Clara is a
surprising gateway into the area, otherwise notable sight in the western part of the area.
best defined by the Basílica de la Macarena, Further north is the former Hospital de
an important shrine to Seville’s venerated las Cinco Llagas, now restored as the seat
Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. Beside this of Andalusia’s Parliament.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Convents Boulevards Monuments
1 Monasterio de San Clemente 3 Alameda de Hércules 7 Murallas
2 Torre de Don Fadrique Historic Buildings Modern Architecture
4 Basílica de la Macarena
5 Cámara Oscura w Metropol Parasol
8 Iglesia de San Marcos
6 Parlamento de
9 Convento de Santa Paula
Andalucía Restaurants p229
0 Iglesia de San Pedro
q Iglesia de Santa Catalina 1 Contenedor
2 Espacio Eslava
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
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Street-by-Street: La Macarena
A stroll in this area provides a glimpse of everyday life in a
part of Seville that has so far escaped developing the rather
tourist-oriented atmosphere of Santa Cruz. Calle de la Feria,
the main street for shopping and browsing, is best visited in
the morning when there is plenty of activity and its market
stalls are filled with fresh fish and vegetables. Early evening,
meanwhile, is a good time to discover the area’s large
number of fine churches, which are open for Mass at that Palacio de las Dueñas
time. It is also the time when local people visit the bars of Boxed in by the surrounding houses,
the district for a drink and tapas. this 15th-century Mudéjar palace has
an elegant patio. It is the private
residence of the Dukes of Alba,
whose tiled coat of arms can be seen
above the palace entrance.
Calle de la Feria
On Thursday mornings, El Jueves,
TO
DUEÑAS
EL
CA
CORON
LL
EG
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ON
A
DEZ
HERNAN
SOR
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MARIA
C ALLE RE G
ANGE
DOÑA
LA D
IN
A
Key
Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229
LA MACARENA 91
r
ivi
the site of a mosque, has a Mudéjar
qu
al
tower and a beautiful Mudéjar-
ad
LA MACARENA
Gu
Gothic portal. The interior preserves
unique horseshoe arches.
EL ARENAL
SANTA
CRUZ
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2, 5
SA
NT
PLAZA A
PA
SAN UL
MARCOS A
A
D
A
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IL
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N
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9 . Convento
San Román is a de Santa Paula
AS 19th-century Mudéjar- The convent church portal
PEÑUEL Gothic church with a blends Gothic, Mudéjar and
fine coffered ceiling. Renaissance architecture.
TR AVER A
L
SO
EL
D
E
LL
CA
PLAZA
D E LO S
El Rinconcillo
TERCEROS
This bar is said to be the place where
tapas were first invented. Dating
back to 1670 it has a suitably old-
fashioned atmosphere and a
fine selection of food.
q Iglesia de
Santa Catalina
Gothic Santa Catalina has a
Mudéjar tower and apse
and, inside, a statue of 0 metres 75
Santa Lucía, patron saint of
the blind, by Roldán. 0 yards 75
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92 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
1 Monasterio de
San Clemente
Calle Reposo 9. Map 1 C3. @ C3, C4.
Tel 954 37 80 40. Church Open for Mass
only: 7am, 9:30am, 1:15pm, 3pm,
6:15pm, 8:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am Sun.
∑ sanclementesevilla.com
2 Torre de Don
Fadrique Marble columns at the southern end of Alameda de Hércules
Convento de Santa Clara, Calle Santa
like a chess-piece castle in the 3 Alameda de
Clara 40. Map 1 C4. Tel 955 47 13 02.
Open by appointment only for tours Convento de Santa Clara. This is Hércules
at 11am, 12:30pm, 5:30pm & 7:30pm entered from Calle Santa Clara,
passing through an arch to a Map 2 D4.
Mon–Sat, 11am & 12:30pm Sun.
patio with a fountain. To the left
One of the best-preserved is a second courtyard, where This tree-lined boulevard was
historical surprises in Seville, the tower is hidden away. The originally laid out in 1574. The
this 13th-century tower stands Gothic entrance to the former marshy area was thus
courtyard was built during the turned into a fashionable
16th century as part of Seville’s promenade for use by sevillanos
first university and transplanted of the Golden Age (see pp54–5).
here in the 19th century. Since the relocation of the
Constructed in 1252, the Sunday morning flea
tower formed part of the market to Charco de
defences for the palace la Pava (see p108),
of the Infante Don efforts have been
Fadrique. On the made to improve
façade Romanesque the Alameda,
windows sit below and these days
Gothic ones. More it is a trendy, clean
than 80 steps lead to Gargoyle on the Torre area with a certain
the upper floor, from de Don Fadrique bohemian charm.
which there are views At the southern
across the city towards La Giralda end of the boulevard stand
and Puente de la Barqueta. two marble columns. They
The convent of Santa Clara were brought here from a
was founded in 1260, though Roman temple dedicated to
the present buildings date from Hercules in what is now Calle
the 15th century. The Mannerist Mármoles (Marbles Street),
entrance portico is by Juan de where three other columns
Oviedo. Inside, the nave has a remain. Time-worn statues of
Mudéjar coffered ceiling and Hercules and Julius Caesar cap
an outstanding main retablo the Alameda’s columns.
Torre de Don Fadrique in the patio of sculpted by Juan Martínez The area boasts an eclectic mix
Convento de Santa Clara Montañés in 1623. of bars, restaurants and cafés.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229
LA MACARENA 93
4 Basílica de la
Virgen de la Macarena
Macarena
Devotions to the Virgen de
Calle Bécquer 1. Map 2 D3. @ C1, la Macarena reach their peak
C2, C3, C4. Tel 954 37 01 95. during Semana Santa
Open 9am–2pm, 5–9pm daily. (see p42), when her statue is
Treasury Open same times as the borne through the streets on
basílica. Closed Easter hols. & a canopied float decorated
The Basílica de la Macarena with swathes of white flowers,
was built in 1949 in the Neo- candles and ornate silverwork.
Accompanied by hooded
Baroque style by Gómez Millán
penitents and cries of ¡guapa!
as a new home for the much-
(beautiful!) from her followers,
loved Virgen de la Esperanza the virgin travels along a
Macarena. It butts on to the route from the Basílica de
13th-century Iglesia de San Gil, la Macarena to the cathedral
where the Virgin was housed (see pp82–3) in the early
until a fire in 1936. hours of Good Friday.
The image of the Virgin Float of the Virgen de la Macarena in
stands above the main altar Semana Santa processions
amid waterfalls of gold and
silver. It has been attributed to
Luisa Roldán (1656–1703). The 5 Cámara Oscura
wall-paintings by Rafael
C/ Resolana s/n. Map 2 D3.
Rodríguez Hernández have Open noon–5pm Tue–Sun (but
themes focusing on the Virgin. closed when raining). Tel 954 90 93
In the museum housed in the 53. ∑ torredelosperdigones.com
Treasury there are magnificent
processional garments as well The camera obscura at the
as gowns made from trajes de Tower of Perdigones has
luces (suits of lights), donated fantastic views of the 1992
by famous and no doubt World Expo fairground, Cartuja Renaissance façade and Baroque portal of
grateful bullfighters. The floats Island and the Guadalquivir Parlamento de Andalucía
used in Semana Santa (see p42), river. It projects real time
among them La Macarena’s images, with movement, by 6 Parlamento de
elaborate silver platform, can using mirrors and magnifying Andalucía
also be admired. glasses over a periscope.
C/ Parlamento de Andalucia s/n.
Map 2 E3. Open By written
application or call the protocol office.
Tel 954 59 59 29. 7 8
∑ parlamentodeandalucia.es
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94 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229
LA MACARENA 95
w Metropol Parasol
Plaza de la Encarnación. Map 2 D5
(6 D2). Tel 95 547 15 80 (Museum),
Intricate pattern on a chapel door in the Iglesia de San Pedro 954 56 15 12 (Observation decks
& skywalks). Open Observation
0 Iglesia de María Coronel, cakes and decks & skywalks: 10am–11pm
biscuits are sold from a Sun–Thu, 10am–11:30pm Fri & Sat.
San Pedro revolving drum in the wall of Antiquarium: 10am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
Plaza San Pedro. Map 2 D5 (6 E2). the Convento de Santa Inés. 10am–1:30pm Sun & public hols.
Tel 954 22 91 24. Open 9am, 11am, An arcaded patio fronts its & ∑ setasdesevilla.com
8pm Mon–Sat, 10am, 11am, noon, restored church, with frescoes
1pm Sun. 7 by Francisco de Herrera and a This ultra-modern structure,
nun’s choir separated from commonly referred to as “Las
The church where the painter the public by a screen. The Setas” (The Mushrooms), is a
Diego Velázquez was baptized preserved body of Doña María striking contrast of modern
in 1599 presents a typically Coronel, the convent’s 14th- architecture and astounding
Sevillian mix of architectural century founder, is honoured archeaological finds: the
styles. Mudéjar elements survive in the choir every 2 December. Observation Deck provides a
in the lobed brickwork of its soaring view of the city, with
tower, which is surmounted by skywalks circling around the
a Baroque belfry. The principal q Iglesia de core of gastrobars, while the first
portal, facing Plaza de San Santa Catalina floor has an open-air plaza,
Pedro, is another Baroque Plaza Ponce de Léon. Map 2 D5 (6 E2).
which hosts cultural events.
adornment added by Diego Tel 954 21 74 41. Closed for The market buzzes with life
de Quesada in 1613. A statue of restoration; end date not known. on the ground floor, and the
St Peter looks disdainfully down Antiquarium museum, housed
at the heathen traffic below. Built on the former site of a in the basement, showcases the
The poorly lit interior has a mosque, this 14th-century archeaological remains that
Mudéjar wooden ceiling and church has a Mudéjar tower were found when this project
west door. The vault of one of modelled on La Giralda (see began in 1973, with extensive
its chapels is decorated with p82), best viewed from Plaza Roman ruins from the Tiberius
exquisite geometric patterns Ponce de Léon, which has been era (c 14 AD–37 AD), and a
formed of interlacing bricks. spared the customary Baroque Moorish house from the 12th
Behind the church, in Calle Doña hat. On the west side, by Calle and 13th centuries.
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 97
0 metres 400
Sights at a Glance
0 yards 400
Museums Gardens
6 Museo de Artes y 5 Parque María Luisa pp102–3
Costumbres Populares Historic Buildings
7 Museo Arqueológico
1 Hotel Alfonso XIII
Theatres 2 Palacio de San Telmo
PUERTA
DE JEREZ
4 Teatro Lope de Vega 3 Universidad
Puerta C
de Jerez Puerta A L L E S
AN
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Striking facade of the Palacio de San Telmo For map symbols see back flap
www.ebook3000.com
98 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Pabellón de
Chile is now the
Escuela de Artes
Pabellón de Perú Aplicadas (School
Modelled on the of Applied Arts).
AS
Archbishop’s Palace
in Lima, this pavilion CI
LI
has a vividly carved
DE
façade. It is typical of
the nationalistic
S
Exposition buildings.
DA
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Pabellón de
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Costurero de la Reina
Today it serves as the municipal tourist
office, but the “Queen’s sewing box”
used to be a garden lodge.
ISA
LU
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0 metres 75 IDA
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0 yards 75
Gu
Churrigueresque doorway is a
ada
statue of St Telmo. The impressive
lquiv
architecture is the highlight.
ir
PARQUE
MARÍA
LUISA
Puerta de Jerez
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 5
To Santa Cruz
MA
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3 . Universidad
The vast 18th-century former
Royal Tobacco Factory has
many fine features, including
this Baroque fountain.
4 Teatro Lope de Vega
This grandiose theatre and
casino, the 1929 Pabellón de
Sevilla, is now a major venue for
staging concerts and shows.
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100 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
1 Hotel
Alfonso XIII
Calle San Fernando 2. Map 3 C3 (6 D5).
v Puerta Jerez. Puerta Jerez.
Tel 954 91 70 00. 7 except toilets.
∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-sevilla.com
2 Palacio de Carmen
San Telmo The hot blooded cigarreras
Avenida de Roma s/n. Map 3 C3. working in Seville’s Royal Tobacco
v Puerta Jerez. Puerta de Jerez. Factory inspired the French author,
Tel 955 00 10 10. Open Thu, Sat & Sun Prosper Mérimée, to create his
by appointment only. ^ 7 8 famous gypsy heroine, Carmen.
∑ juntadeandalucia.es The short story he wrote in 1845
tells the tragic tale of a sensual
This imposing palace was built and wild woman who turns her
affections from a soldier to a
in 1682 to serve as a marine
bullfighter and is then murdered
university, training navigators
by her spurned lover. Bizet based
and high-ranking officers. It is his famous opera of 1875 on this
named after St Telmo, patron impassioned drama, which
saint of navigators. In 1849 the established Carmen as an
palace became the residence incarnation of Spanish romance.
of the Dukes of Montpensier – Carmen and Don José
until 1893 its vast grounds
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229
PA R Q U E M A R Í A LU I S A 101
4 Teatro Lope
de Vega
Avenida María Luisa s/n. Map 3 C3.
v & Prado de San Sebastian.
Tel 955 47 28 28 (ticket office).
Open for performances only. 7
∑ teatrolopedevega.org.
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102 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
KEY
7. Museo Arqueológico
The Neo-Renaissance Pabellón
de las Bellas Artes today houses
a regional archaeological
museum. Many finds from
nearby Roman Itálica (see p136)
are among the exhibits.
Ceramics
Brightly painted Sevillian ceramics from
Triana decorate the park in the form of
floral urns, tiled benches and playful frogs
and ducks placed around the fountains.
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 105
Sights at a Glance
Theme Parks Churches and Monasteries Key
1 Isla Mágica 4 Monasterio de Santa María
Seville city centre
2 Cartuja ’93 de las Cuevas
6 Iglesia de Nuestra
Greater Seville
Markets
Señora de la O Motorway
3 Charco de la Pava 7 Iglesia de Santa Ana Major road
Flea Market
Minor road
Traditional Areas
5 Triana pp106–7
0 kilometres 1
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Looking towards Triana district and the bell tower of Iglesia de Santa Ann at sunset For map symbols see back flap
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106 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
C
flower-filled streets and a tangibly independent atmosphere.
A
S
T
Visitors to Triana can buy tiles and wander through its narrow
IL
LA
streets during the day, and enjoy the lively bars and romantic
views across the Río Guadalquivir at night.
S
Founded in 1870, this S
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is the best known of N
M
JO
CA
Triana’s tile shops.
R
It sells anything G
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from replicas of N
LA
16th-century PLAZA
IL
DEL
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tiles to ashtrays.
N
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Plaza del Altozano TR
At the west end of Puente de IA
NA
Isabel II, this plaza features
glass-fronted, wrought-iron
balconies called miradores.
Santa Justa
and Santa Rufina
Two Christians working in
the Triana potteries in the
3rd century have become
Seville’s patron saints. The
city’s Roman rulers are said
to have thrown the young
women to the lions after they
refused to join a procession
venerating Venus. This
martyrdom has inspired
many works by Sevillian
artists, including Murillo and
Zurbarán (see pp70–71). The Calle Rodrigo de Triana
saints are often shown This street in white and ochre is
with the Giralda, which, named after the Andalusian sailor
Santa Justa and Santa Rufina as apparently, they protected who first caught sight of the New
from an earthquake in 1755. World on Columbus’s epic voyage
represented by Murillo (c.1665)
of 1492 (see p131).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229
ACROSS THE RIVER 107
G
Triana, leads
ua
bridge designed by
da
l
to El Arenal.
qu
ivi
Gustavo Steinacher
r
ACROSS
and Fernando THE RIVER
Bernadet in 1845.
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 3
C Capilla de los
A
L Marineros, a sailors’
L
E chapel, was built
B
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IS
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N
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S for its creative
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cuisine (see p229).
IJ
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Key
7 Iglesia de Santa Ana
Founded in the 13th century Suggested route
by Alfonso X, this is the oldest
parish church in Seville. Triana’s 0 metres 75
most popular place of worship,
it has been splendidly restored. 0 yards 75
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108 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Main entrance of the Carthusian Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas, founded in 1400
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110 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
C A L LE
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Puente de Isabel II
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monument to Columbus, and century Convento San José AV w
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the walls of the Real Alcázar. del Carmen, also known as ROS GA CRISTINA
A
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Take Calle Santa Teresa past the Convento de las Teresas, an
PLAZA DE
museum and birthplace of order of the Carmelites. Turning Plaza
CUBA
FR D
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de la Magdalena 7, a church
HER
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Its interior features works by
LOS REYES 3 IM NCIS
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E Zurbarán and Valdés, and its
exquisite representation of
2
LO U E D
TRIUNFO PLAZA
DOÑA
REFINADORES
(protection) is a star of the
ELVIRA
Archivo de Indias 1 Easter Semana Santa pro-
L JARDINES DE
UE A
M IGÑ A R MURILLO cessions. It is claimed she
M A
YO DEZ
PLAZA
CONTRATACION intervened on behalf of
petitioners during the after-
PE ENEN
JARDINES DEL
El Faro de Triana restaurant on Puente
LA
PUERTA
and in the 19th century
E
DE JEREZ
Puerta de Jerez
C D
D
E
LA
F
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Reyes Catolicos, leading Rodrigo de Triana. Turn
SAN TELMO GLORIETA
SAN DIEGO straight to Puente de left into Calle Victoria and
Isabel II 8. Built in right into Pelay Correa
1852 on the found- Azulejos of Santa to reach Seville’s oldest
ations of a long-lost Ana church in Triana church, the 13th-century
12th-century Arab Iglesia Santa Ana 0.
0 metres 300
bridge, it is also known as Its interior features major works
0 yards 300 Puente de Triana. by 16th-century sculptors such
as Jurate and Ocampo. Behind
the church, take a right on
Triana’s bar-lined riverfront,
Calle Betis q, with views across
to the Plaza de Toros, the Torre
del Oro and, to the left, sculptor
Eduardo Chillida’s modernist
peace monument, La Tolerancia
(Tolerance). Betis runs to the
1931 Puente de San Telmo, which
leads to the Jardines de Cristina
w, a major bus hub, and to Calle
San Fernando e, which passes
the Universidad and continues
8 Puente de Isabel II, stretching over the Guadalquivir River to the Jardines de Murillo.
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112 SEVILLE STREET FINDER
STREET FINDER
Key
Major sight
VIADUCTO DEL ALAMILLO TE
URBAN A NOR
Place of interest
RN i r
I ANI
EO
uiv
Other building
alq
FEDR
TO
ad
LA
Gu
A
Railway station
TOR
EV
RZO
NU
DOC
BA
Bus terminus
LA
DE
River boat boarding point
O
NE
IDA
OR
SAN LU
EN
Parking
T
EL
AV
ED
LL
Tourist information
IS
La Macarena
CA
Hospital
ALFONS
Police station
O XII
Church
ARJON
LUIS
M O N TO TO Railway line
El Arenal
EDU A
Pedestrianized street
RDO
DATO
Metro station
INA Metro-Centro tram stop
NT Parque
PAS
E ENR
RG AM
AA María AD
EO
LIC ILL
UB A
Luisa
DE
P
RE
L AS
Gua dalq uivir
VIRGEN DE LUJAN
DE
LIC
IAS
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114 SEVILLE STREET FINDER
Gloria, Calle 6 D5 José Bermejo, Calle 2 F1 Macasta, Calle 2E4 Molino, Calle 2 D4
Glorieta Buenos Aires 3 C4 José Cruz Conde, Calle 4 D3 Madre de Dios, Calle 6 E4 Molviedro, Plaza 3 B1 (5 B3)
Glorieta Covadonga 4 D4 José de la Camara, C 4 E2 Madre Dolores Márquez, C 2 E4 Moncayo, Calle 4 F4
Glorieta de los José de Velilla, C d 3 B1 (5C2) Madre Rafols, Calle 3 A4 Monederos, Calle 2 D3
Marineros Voluntarios 3 C4 José Gestoso, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madre San Marcelo, C 2 F3 Monsalves, Calle 1 C5 (5 B2)
Glorieta del Alferez Provisional 3 B4 José Laguillo, C 2 F5 Madreselva, Calle 2 F3 Monte Carmelo, C d 3 B3
Glorieta México 4 D5 José Luis Luque, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madrid, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3) Montevideo, Calle 4 D4
Glorieta San Diego 3 C3 José Maluquer, C 2 F3 Maese Farfán, C 4 F2 Moratín, Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Goles, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B1) José María Izquierdo, C 2 F4 Maestre Amete, Calle 4 F2 Morera, Calle 2 E4
Golfo, Calle 6 D3 José María Martínez Maestre Angulo, Calle 2 F4 Morería 6 D2
Gomara, Avenida 4 D5 Sánchez Arjona, C 3 A3 Maestro Quiroga, C 2 E4 Morgado, Calle de 6 D1
González Cuadrado, C 2 D4 José María Moreno Magallanes, Avda d 3 C4 Morón, Calle 4 F5
González de León, Calle 6 F4 Galván, C 4 D2 (6 F5) Málaga, Avda d 4 D2 (6 E5) Muelle de las Delicias 3 C4
González Quijano, Pasaje 2 D4 José María Osborne, C 4 D3 Malaquita, Calle 2 E2 Mulhacén, Calle 4 F4
Gonzalo Bilbao, C 2 E5 (6 F2) Joselito el Gallo, C 3 A5 Maldonados, Pl 2 D4 (6 D1) Muñoz León, C 2 E3
Gonzalo Díaz, Calle 4 E5 Jovellanos, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3) Mallen, Calle 4 F1 Muñoz Olive, C d 3 B1 (5 C3)
Gonzalo Núñez de Juan A Cavestany, C 4 E1 Mallol, Pasaje 2 E4 (6 F1) Muñoz y Pavón, C 6 E3
Sepúlveda, Calle 2 F3 Juan Belmonte, Calle de 3 A5 Malvaloca, Calle 4 F5 Murillo, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3)
Gonzalo Segovia, Calle 3 B3 Juan Castillo, Calle 6 F4 Manuel Bermudo
Gota de Rocío, C 2 E1 Juan de Astorga, C 2 D3 Barrera, Calle 4 D3
Goyeneta, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Juan de Aviñón, C 4 D2 (6 E5) Manuel Carretero, Calle 2 F3 N
Gran Capitán, C 4 D3 Juan de la Cosa, C 4 E5 Manuel Casana, Calle 4 F3 Naoc, Calle de 3 A3
Granada, Calle 5 C3 Juan de Matacarriazo 4 D2 (6 F5) Manuel Cortina, Calle 3 C1 Naranco, Calle 4 F4
Granate, Calle 2 E2 Juan de Mesa, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Manuel Mateos, Calle de 2 E3 Naranjo, Calle 2 E1
Gravina, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) Juan de Roble, C 2 D3 Manuel Pacheco, Calle 4 D4 Narciso Bonaplata, C 1 C4
Guadalhorce, Avda d 3 C5 Juan de Vera, C 4 E1 (6 F3) Manuel Ródenas, Calle 2 F3 Nardo, Calle 6 F4
Guadalquivir, C d 1 C4 Juan de Zoyas, C 4 F2 Manuel Rodríguez Navarros, C d 4 D1 (6 F3)
Guadalupe, Calle 4 D1 (6 F3) Juan Manuel Rodríguez Alonso, Calle 3 A3 Nebli, Calle 4 E2
Guadarrama, Calle 4 F4 Correa, Calle 2 E3 Manuel Rojas Nicolás Alperiz, C 4 D4
Guadiana, Calle 2 D4 Juan Núñez, Calle 2 F3 Marcos, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Niebla, Calle de la 3 A4
Guinés, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Juan Pablos, Calle 4 D5 Manuel Siurot, Avda de 4 D5 Niña de la Alfalfa, C 2 F2
Guzmán El Bueno, Juan Pérez Montalbán, C 2 D4 Manuel Villalobos, C 2 F3 Niña, Calle 2 F4
Calle de 3 C1 (6 D4) Juan Rabadán, Calle de 1 B4 Manzana, Calle 2 E3 Niño Ricardo, Calle 6 E2
Juan R Jiménez, C 3 B4 Mar Caspio, Calle 2 F2 Nuestra Sra de la O, Po 3 A1
Juan Romero, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Mar Negro, Calle 2 F2
H Juan S Elcano, C 3 B3 Mar Rojo, Calle de 2 F2
Nuestra Sra de la Paz, C
Nuestra Sra de los
4 E4
Habana, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Judería, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5) Maracaibo, Calle 2 F1 Angeles, Calle 3 A3
Harinas, Calle d 3 B2 (5 C4) Julio César, C de 3 B1 (5 B3) Maravillas, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Nueva Torneo 2 D2
Herbolarios, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Júpiter, Calle de 4 E1 (6 F2) Marbella, Playa 2 E2 Nueva, Plaza 3 B1 (5 C3)
Hermanas d Cruz, C 2 F2 Justino de Neve, C 6 E5 Marcelino Champagnat, C 3 A3 Núñez de Balboa, C 3 B2 (5C5)
Hermandades, Calle 2 F2 Justino Matute, Calle 3 A2 Marchena, Calle 4 F5
Hermano Pablo, Calle 2 F1 Juzgado, Calle 2 E4 Marco Sancho, Calle 2 D4
Hernán Cortés, Avda de 4 D4 Marcos d Cabrera, C 2 D3 O
María Auxiliadora, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Hernán Cortés, Calle 1 C4
Hernándo Colón, Calle 3 C1 (6 D4)
K María Luisa, Avda d 3 C4 O’Donnell, Calle 3 B1 (5 C2)
María, Calle la 2 F4 Odreros, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Herrera El Viejo, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Kansas City, Avenida de 4 F1 Oeste, Paseo 1 A3
Hiniesta, Calle 2 E4 (6 E1) Mariana de Pineda, C 6 D5
Marianillo, Calle 3 A3 Opalo, Calle 2 E2
Hiniesta, Calle la 2 E4
Hombre de Piedra, C d 1 C4
L Mariscal, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Orden de Malta, C
Orotava, Calle
2 D3
2 F1
Mármoles, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Honderos, Calle 2 E3 Laboriosa, C de la 4 E1 Orquídea, Calle 2 F2
Marqués d Lozoya, C 2 F2
Horacio Hermoso Araujo, C 4 F5 Lagar, Calle del 3 C1 (6 D2) Ortiz de Zúñiga, C 6 D2
Marqués de Estella, C 4 E3
Huelva, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Lamarque de Novoa, C 2 F4 Osario, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2)
Marqués de la Mina, C d 1 C4
Huestes, Calle 4 E3 Lanza, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E3) Oscar Carvallo, C 4 F2
Marqués de
Laraña Imagen, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Paradas, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Otoño, Calle 2 E2
I Laurel, Calle
Lealtad, Calle
6 D1
3 A3
Marqués del Duero, Otumba, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3)
Calle A 1 (5 A3)
Igueldo, Calle 4 F4 Legión, Pl d 3 A1 (5 A2)
Imaginero Castillo Leiria, Calle 3 A2
Marteles, Calle 2 E4 (6 F1) P
Martín Villa, Calle 5 C2
Lastrucci, Calle 1 B4 (5 B1) Leon XIII, Calle de 2 E4 Martínez de Medina, C 4 F2 Pacheco y Núñez del
Imperial, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Leoncillos, Calle 6 F2 Martínez Montañéz, Prado, Calle 2 D4
Infanta Luisa Lepanto, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Calle de 1 C5 (5 C1) Padre Campelo, Calle 4 F3
de Orleans, Calle 4 D3 Lerena, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Marzo, Calle 2 F2 Padre Cañete, Calle 5 C1
Infante Carlos Levies, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E4) Matahacas, Calle 2 E5 (6 F1) Padre Damián, C d 3 B4
de Borbón, Calle 4 D3 Lictores, Calle 4 E1 Mateo Alemán, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Padre Jerónimo
Infantes, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Liñán, Calle 1 B5 (5 A2) Mateos Gago, C d 3 C2 (6 D4) Córdoba, Plaza 2 E5 (6 E2)
Inocentes, Calle 2 D4 Lineros, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Matienzo, Calle 3 B2 (5 C5) Padre Manjón, C 2 E4
Iris, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4) Lira, Calle 2 E4 Mazagón, Playa de 2 E2 Padre Marchena, C 3 B1 (5 C3)
Irún, Calle 4 D1 (6 F4) Lirio, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Medalla Milagrosa, C 2 E3 Padre Méndez
Isabel II, Puente d 3 A2 (5 A4) Llerena, Calle de 2 F3 Medina y Galnares, C 2 E1 Casariego, C 4 E1
Isabel La Católica, Avda d 4 D3 Llop 3 C1 (6 D2) Medina, Calle 1 C4 Padre Tarín, C 1 C5 (5 C1)
Isabela, Calle 4 E4 Lope de Rueda, C 6 E4 Meléndez Valdés, C 2 F1 Pages del Corro, C 3 A2 (5 A5)
Lope de Vega, C 4 E1 (5 C2) Membrillo, Calle 2 E1 Pajaritos, Calle 6 D3
López de Gomara, C 3 A3
J López Pintado, C 4 D1 (6 E2)
Méndez Núñez, C
Mendigorria, Calle
3 B1 (5 C3)
1 C4
Palacio Malaver, Calle
Palma del Río, Calle
2 D4
2 F3
Jabugo, Calle 2 F4 Lora del Río, Calle 4 F5 Mendoza Ríos, C d 1 B5 (5 B2) Palmera, Avda de la 4 D5
Jacinta Martos, C 3 A2 Luca de Tena, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Menéndez Pelayo, Palos de la Frontera, C d 3 C3
Jauregui, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F2) Lucero, Calle 2 D4 Calle de 4 D2 (6 E5) Paraíso, Calle 3 A3
Javier, Calle 5 C2 Luchana, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Menéndez Pidal, C 2 F2 Parras, Calle 2 D3
Jerónimo Hernández, C 2 D5 Lucía de Jesús, C 3 A3 Menjibar, Calle 6 D1 Particular, Calle 3 A4
(6 D1) Luis Cadarso, Calle 4 E1 Mercedarias, Pl d 4 D1 (6 E3) Pascual de Gayangos,
Jesús del Gran Luis de Belmonte, C 4 F2 Mercedes de Velilla 6 D2 Calle de 1 B4 (5 B1)
Poder, C d 1 C5 (5 C2) Luis de Morales, C d 4F2 Mesón del Moro, C 6 E4 Pascual Márquez, C d 3 A5
Jesús Cautivo, Avda 4 F5 Luis de Vargas, C 3 A1 (5 A3) Miguel Cid, Pastor y Landero,
Jesús de la Vera Cruz, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Luis Montoto, C d 4 E1 (6 F3) Calle de 1 C5 (5 B1) Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Jiménez Aranda, C 4 E2 Lumbreras, Calle 1 C4 Miguel Mañara, C 6 D5 Patricio Sáenz, C 2 E4
Jimios, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4) Luz Arriero, Calle 3 A3 Miño, Calle del 3 A3 Pavia, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Joaquín Costa, C 2 D4 Miraflores, Avenida de 2 F4 Paz, Avenida de la 4 F5
Joaquín Guichot, C
Joaquín Hazaña, C
3 C1 (5 C4
3 C2 (5 C5)
M Misericordia, Calle
Moguer, Calle
6 D2
2 F1
Pedro Caravaca, Calle
Pedro del Toro, Calle
5 C2
5 A2
Jorge de Montemayor, C 2 E3 Macarena, Calle 2 E4 Molini, Avenida de 3 C5 Pedro Gual Villalbi, Avda 2 F1
SEVILLE STREET FINDER 115
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ANDALUSIA
AREA BY AREA
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124 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Andalusia at a Glance
Andalusia is a region of contrasts where
snowcapped mountains rise above deserts and
Mediterranean beaches, and Moorish palaces can
be found standing next to Christian cathedrals.
Its eight provinces, which in this guide are divided
into four areas, offer busy towns such as Granada
and Córdoba with their astonishing architectural
treasures, in addition to sleepy villages, endless Roof of the Mihrab in the Mezquita, Córdoba’s top
olive groves and nature reserves of great beauty. sight (see pp148–9)
CÓRDOBA
Córdoba
HUELVA SEVILLA
Seville
Huelva
MÁLAGA
CÁDIZ
Los Barrios
JAÉN
Jaén
ALMERÍA
Granada
Archidona GRANADA
Almería
Málaga
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ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA 127
HUELVA
AND SEVILLA
Andalusia’s western extremities and the plains surrounding
Seville are rarely explored by travellers in southern Spain.
There are isolated beaches along Huelva province’s Atlantic coast
and good walking country in the northern sierras. The Parque Nacional de
Doñana on the Guadalquivir delta is Europe’s largest nature reserve; inland,
orange groves straddle the river’s valley.
As Roman legions under Scipio Africanus epic voyage from Palos de la Frontera, which
crossed southern Spain on their westward at the time was an important port. He stayed
trek in the 3rd century BC, they founded nearby, at the Franciscan Monasterio de la
a formidable metropolis, Itálica. Its ruins Rábida, built earlier that century. Running
remain north of Seville. Later, the Moors along Huelva’s northern border is a ridge
held the region as part of the Emirate of mountains, of which the forested Sierra
of Al Andalus. They peppered it with de Aracena forms part. This ridge continues
their whitewashed, fortified towns, of into Sevilla province as the Sierra Norte
which Carmona, in Sevilla province, is de Sevilla. Here, goats forage, birds of prey
a fine example. fly overhead and streams gush through
After the Christian Reconquest (see chasms. The landscape erupts in a riot of
pp52–3), Moorish traditions persisted wild flowers in spring, turning brown as
through Mudéjar architecture (see pp28–9), the searing summer sets in.
blending with Baroque and Renaissance The Parque Nacional de Doñana
in cities such as Osuna, which flourished preserves the dunes and marshlands near
in the 16th century. the mouth of the Guadalquivir to the
Huelva province is inextricably bound up south. Here, teeming birdlife and wetland
with another chapter in the history of world fauna thrive on the mudflats and shallow,
conquest – in 1492 Columbus set out on his saline waters.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío, El Rocío, where many pilgrims converge each Pentecost Sunday
Whitewashed buildings in a village in the Sierra de Aracena
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128 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
RA DE A
Ch
RACENA de la Sierra
Hu
Santa Bárbara
elv
de Casa
a
Paymogo
Cabezas El Ronquillo
Rubias MINAS DE
Zalamea RÍOTINTO
la Real El Castillo de
Calañas las Guardas
Tharsis
HUE LVA
G u adia m a
Alosno Valverde
el
Villanueva de
Tinto
di
O del Camino
los Castillejos
Aznalcóllar
r
Sanlúcar de Embalse
Guadiana de Sancho
San Bartolomé
El C
Guad
de la Torre Sanlúcar
ON
San Silvestre Trigueros DA la Mayor
Gibraleón Niebla Palma del Condado
iana
de Guzmán D
O
z RQ A
MATALASCAÑAS P A I O N N Ar
C
NA OÑA
ivi
D
qu
D E
adal
Gu
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Fishing boats in the harbour of Punta Umbría Provincial border
Getting Around
The busy A4, linking Córdoba with Seville, slices through
the eastern half of the region, bypassing Écija and Carmona,
then streaks on down to Jerez de la Frontera and Cádiz as
the AP4. Another motorway, the A92, brings traffic from
Málaga and Granada. All join a ring-road at Seville, with the
A49 continuing to Huelva and Portugal. These cities are also
connected by rail. A complex and inexpensive bus network
run by many different companies links most towns. To
explore the more remote parts of the region, particularly
mountain roads, it is essential to have private transport.
Alanis
Embalse de SIER
El Pintado
RA Las Navas de la
NO Concepción
Cazalla de RTE
la Sierra
Constantina A well-known bodega advertisement in the rolling
Almadén
de la Plata hills of the Sierra de Aracena
El Pedroso
La Puebla
Via
de los Infantes
r
Embalse
de Cala Peñaflor
Palma del Río
Castilblanco de
los Arroyos Lora del Río
Córdoba
Cantillana Ge
ni
alquivir
Villanueva del La Campana l
Río y Minas uad
G
ITÁLICA CARMONA
Santiponce
C or
bones
Sevilla Mairena del Alcor Herrera
La Lantejuela
(Seville) Alcalá de Guadaira El Rubio
Marchena
Dos El Arahal
Hermanas ESTEPA
Coria del OSUNA
Río Aguadulce
La Puebla
Utrera de Cazalla La Roda de
Andalucía Málaga
Los Palacios Morón de
y Villafranca la Frontera
LEBRIJA
Sights at a Glance
Jerez de la 1 Sierra de Aracena w El Rocío
Frontera
2 Minas de Ríotinto e Matalascañas
3 Ayamonte r Parque Nacional
4 Isla Cristina de Doñana pp134–5
5 Punta Umbría t Lebrija
6 Huelva y Itálica
7 Monasterio de la Rábida u Sierra Norte
8 Palos de la Frontera i Carmona
9 Moguer o Écija
0 kilometres 20
0 Mazagón p Osuna
0 miles 10 q El Condado a Estepa
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130 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
E Museo Minero
Plaza del Museo s/n. Tel 959 59 00 25.
Open daily. & 7 8 -
∑ parquemineroderiotinto.com
3 Ayamonte
Huelva. Road map A3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Huelva 37 (959 32 07 37).
( Sat morning.
Tuna and sardine trawlers moored for the night in the port of Isla Cristina
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p217 and pp230–31
HUELVA AND SE VILLA 131
E Museo Provincial
Alameda Sundheim 13. Tel 959 65 04
24. Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
9am–3:30pm Sun & public hols (mid-
Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun
& public hols). 7
7 Monasterio
de la Rábida
Huelva. Road map A3. @ from Huelva.
Tel 959 35 04 11. Open 10am–1pm,
Frescoes depicting the life of Columbus at Monasterio de la Rábida 4–6:15pm Tue–Sat, 10:45am–1pm,
4–6:15pm Sun (to 7pm Jul & Aug). &
8 ∑ monasteriodelarabida.com
5 Punta Umbría That Columbus set sail from
Huelva. Road map A3. * 14,000. @
Palos de la Frontera, across the In 1491, a dejected Genoese
n Ciudad de Huelva s/n (959 49 51 estuary, is Huelva’s main claim explorer found refuge in the
60). ( Mon. ∑ puntaumbria.es to international renown. This Franciscan friary at La Rábida,
fact is celebrated in the which is across the Odiel estuary
Punta Umbria is one of the main excellent Museo Provincial, from Huelva. King Fernando and
beach resorts in Huelva province. which also has several Queen Isabel had refused to
It sits at the end of a long exhibitions charting the history back his plan to sail west to the
promontory, with the of the mines at Riotinto. East Indies. The prior, Juan Pérez,
Marismas del Odiel Some archaeological who as the confessor of the
wetlands to one side finds from the very early queen had great influence,
and a sandy beach days of mining are eventually succeeded in getting
bordering the Gulf of cleverly presented. this decision reversed. The
Cádiz to the other. The To the east of the following year, this sailor, by
Riotinto Company first centre, the Barrio Reina name Columbus, became the
developed the resort in Victoria is a bizarre first European to reach the
the late 19th century for example of English Americas since the Vikings.
its British employees. suburbia in the very La Rábida friary, which was
These days, however, it is Bronze jug, Museo
heart of Andalusia. built on Moorish ruins in the
mainly Spanish holiday- Provincial, Huelva
It is a district of 15th century, is now a shrine
makers who stay in the bungalows in mock- to Columbus. Frescoes painted
beachside villas. Tudor style, built by by Daniel Vásquez Díaz in 1930
A long bridge crosses the the Riotinto Company for its glorify Columbus’s life. The Sala
marshes, giving road access from staff in the early 20th century. de las Banderas contains a
Huelva. It is more fun to follow a South of the town, at Punta del small casket of soil from every
trail blazed by Riotinto expatriates Sebo, the Monumento a Colón, Latin American country. Worth
seeking the sun and take the a 1929 bleak statue of Columbus seeing are the Mudéjar cloisters,
ferry across the bird-rich wetlands. by Gertrude Vanderbuilt Whitney, the lush gardens and the
dominates the Odiel estuary. beamed chapterhouse.
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132 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
e Matalascañas
Huelva. Road map A3. * 1,200. @
Moorish walls surrounding Niebla in El Condado n Parque Dunar, s/n (959 02 66 02).
( Thu.
q El Condado w El Rocío
Huelva. Road map B2. £ @ Palma Huelva. Road map B3. * 2,500. @
Matalascañas is the largest
del Condado. n Calle Campo Castillo n Centro Doñana, Avda de la Andalusian beach resort west of
s/n, Niebla Huelva (959 36 22 70). Canaliega s/n (959 02 66 02). ( Tue. the Guadalquivir river. Thousands
holiday here, lying in the sun,
The rolling, fecund hills to the Bordering the wetlands of the riding, sailing or water-skiing by
east of Huelva produce several Doñana region (see pp134–5), day and dancing to the latest
of Andalusia’s finest wines. El the village of El Rocío is for disco beat at night. At Romería
Condado, defined roughly by most of the year a tranquil, rural del Rocío, the resort overflows
Niebla, Palma del Condado, backwater, which attracts with pilgrims and revellers.
Bollullos del Condado and few visitors. Matalascañas is totally
Rociana del Condado, is the heart At the Romería del Rocío (see self-contained. To one side
of this wine-growing district. pp42–3) in May, however, nearly there are dunes and forests
Niebla is of ancient origin. Its a million people converge on stretching as far as Mazagón, to
bridge is Roman, but its solid the village. Many are pilgrims the other the wild peace of the
walls are Moorish, as is the now who travel from all over Spain Doñana (see pp134–5).
ruined, 12th-century Castillo de
Niebla, also known as Castillo
de los Guzmanes.
Around Niebla, vineyards
spread out over the landscape,
which is dotted with villages
close to the main bodegas.
These include Bollullos del
Condado, which has the largest
cooperative winery in Andalusia
and also the Centro del Vino
Condado de Huelva. Here you
can learn about wine-growing
techniques and taste their wines
before making your purchase.
Bollullos and Palma del
Condado are good examples of
the popular young white wines
produced in the region.
Palma del Condado is best
visited in September when the
inhabitants celebrate the year’s
vendimia (grape harvest).
+ Castillo de Niebla
C/ Campo Castillo s/n. Tel 959 36 22 70.
Open 10am–2pm, 3–6pm Mon–Sun.
Centro del Vino Condado
de Huelva
Calle San José 2. Tel 959 41 38 75.
Open 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat. Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío in the village of El Rocío
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134 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
El Rocío
La Rocina
12
H6
El Acebuche
Prickly Juniper
This species of juniper (Juniperus
oxycedrus) thrives in the wide Matalascañas
dune belt, rooting deep into the
Palacio de Doñana
sand. The trees sometimes get
buried beneath the dunes.
Laguna de Santa Olaya
Key
Marshes
Dunes
Parque Nacional de Doñana
Parque Natural de Doñana
Road
Viewpoint
Coastal Dunes
Softly rounded, white dunes, up
to 30 m (99 ft) high, fringe the
park’s coastal edge. The dunes,
ribbed by prevailing winds off
the Atlantic, shift constantly.
Official Tour
Numbers of visitors are
KEY controlled very strictly.
On official day tours
1 Monte de Doñana, the wooded along rough tracks,
area behind the sand dunes, provide the knowledgeable
shelter for lynx, deer and boar. guides point out
2 Wild cattle use the marshes as elusive animals while
water holes. ensuring minimal
environmental impact.
For additional map symbols see back flap
HUELVA AND SE VILLA 135
Deer
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Fallow deer (Dama
dama) and larger Red
Practical Information
deer (Cervus elaphus)
Road map B3.
roam the park. Stags
Marginal areas: Open daily.
engage in fierce
Closed 1 Jan, 6 Jan, Pentecost,
contests in late
25 Dec. n La Rocina: Tel 959 43
summer as they
95 69; n Palacio del Acebrón:
prepare for breeding.
exhibition “Man and the Doñana”.
Open summer: 9am–3pm;
4–7pm. Tel 959 50 61 22.
n El Acebuche: reception,
exhibition, café, shop.
Open 8am–9pm (to 7pm in
winter). Tel 959 43 04 32. Self-
guided footpaths: La Rocina and
Charco de la Boca; El Acebrón
from Palacio del Acebrón; Laguna
del Acebuche from Acebuche.
Inner park areas: Open summer:
Mon–Sat; winter: Tue–Sun.
ar
m Guided tour only. Jeeps leave
d ia
ua El Acebuche 8:30am & 3pm
G (8:30am & 7pm in summer).
o
Rí Booking compulsory.
Tel 959 44 38 08. &
Imperial Eagle ∑ reddeparquesnacionales.
José Antonio The very rare Imperial eagle mma.es
Valverde (Aquila adalberti) preys on
small mammals.
M
a
Izn rism
alc a
áz de
ar
Ma
Ga rism
lle a
ga
Greater Flamingo
During the winter months, the salty lakes and
ir
dalquiv
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136 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
o Écija
Sevilla. Road map C2. * 40,000.
@ n Calle Elvira 1A, Palacio de
Benamejí (955 90 29 33). ( Thu.
∑ turismoecija.com
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ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA 139
CÓRDOBA
AND JAÉN
Córdoba, with its magnificent mosque and pretty
Moorish patios, is northern Andalusia’s star attraction.
Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Moriles wine towns and
also Baroque treasures such as Priego de Córdoba. Jaén’s mountain passes are
gateways to the province’s beautiful Renaissance towns of Úbeda and Baeza,
and to the great wildlife reserves of the mountain ranges.
Córdoba, on Andalusia’s mighty river, the Running across the north of Córdoba and
Guadalquivir, was a Roman provincial Jaén provinces is the Sierra Morena. Deer
capital over 2,000 years ago, but its and boar shelter in the forest and scrub of
golden age came with the Moors. In the this broad mountain range. The sierras
10th century it was the western capital dominate Jaén province. The great Río
of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad Guadalquivir springs to life as a sparkling
in wealth, power and sophistication. trout stream in the Sierra de Cazorla, the
Today it is an atmospheric city, its ancient craggy wilderness along its eastern
quarters and buildings reflecting a long border. Through the ages, mule trains,
and glorious history. traders, highwaymen and armies have
Córdoba’s surrounding countryside is used the cleft in Sierra Morena, known as
dotted with monuments to its Moorish Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, to cross
past – like the Caliph’s palace of Medina from La Mancha and Castilla to Andalusia.
Azahara. To the south lies the Campiña, an Ancient castles perched on heights,
undulating landscape covered in regiments once strategic outposts on the Moorish/
of olives and vines, and green and gold Christian frontier, now overlook the
expanses of sunflowers and corn. Here peaceful olive groves punctuated by
and there are whitewashed villages and historic towns preserving gems of
hilltop castles with crumbling walls. post-Reconquest architecture.
The city of Jaén with its cathedral in the foreground, as viewed from Castillo de Santa Catalina
Bell tower of Córdoba's Mezquita
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140 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Belalcázar Santa
r
ja
Eufemia
Zú
Hinojosa
del Duque R Gu
OU
A T
ad
alm
R EN Torrecampo
ez Puertollano
MO
RA Añora Pedroche Conquista
ER
Alcaracejos
SI Pozoblanco
Peñarroya-
Pueblonuevo a
Villanueva
r e n
Fuente
Bélmez de Córdoba
M o Cardeña
Obejuna
S i e r r a
Espiel SANTUARIO VIRGEN
DE LA CABEZA
Embalse de
Be
éz de Córdoba
b
ar Embalse del
Guadalmellato
ANDÚJAR
C ÓR DO BA Adamuz MONTORO
Embalse
del Bembézar Villa del Río
MEDINA Arjona
AZAHARA Bujalance
Hornachuelos CÓRDOBA Porcuna
Embalse
del Retortillo Posadas
CASTILLO DE G ua
daj
ALMODÓVAR oz
DEL RÍO
PALMA
Castro del Río
DEL RÍO La Carlota
Fernán Núñez Espejo
La Rambla BAENA
MONTILLA
Sevilla Alcaudete
Doña Mencía
Gu
AGUILAR
ad
aj
CABRA
oz
Benamejí
Gen
Iznájar
il
Málaga
Olive groves stretching across the countryside
For additional map symbols see back flap
CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 141
Sights at a Glance
2 Palma del Río y Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza
3 Castillo de Almodóvar u Baños de la Encina
del Río i La Carolina
4 Medina Azahara o Desfiladero de Despeñaperros
5 Córdoba pp144–50 p Baeza pp156–7
6 Montoro a Úbeda pp158–9
7 Montilla s Cazorla
8 Aguilar d Parque Natural de Cazorla,
9 Lucena Segura y Las Villas
0 Cabra f Segura de la Sierra
q Baena
w Priego de Córdoba Tour
e Alcalá la Real 1 Sierra Morena The town of Cazorla on the border of the nature reserve
r Jaén pp152–3
t Andújar
Valdepeñas
Embalse del
Guadalmena
DESFILADERO DE Puente de
DESPEÑAPERROS Siles
Génave
Ján d u l a
én
dal
Beas de
SEGURA DE
Gua
Embalse Navas de
ali
AS E
VI
de Rumblar BAÑOS DE
YL D
San Juan d
G ua Villanueva del
Arquillos
A RAL
Santo
ui
RQ
ÚBEDA
,S
alq
Tomé
Mengíbar BAEZA
ad
PA
Gu
Gu
OR
a d a l quivir
Peal de Becerro CAZORLA
CAZ
JAÉN
Gua
Jódar
Quesada
di a
Mancha
na
JAÉN Real
M
Mágina
en
2167m Huesa
or
Martos
Huelma
Valdepeñas
de Jaén
Castillo de
Locubín
Getting Around
ALCALÁ LA
REAL Key A car is essential to explore the region
Granada fully. The main Autovía de Andalucía NIV
Motorway (A4) follows the Guadalquivir valley. To the
Major road north of the valley, public transport is
Granada
Minor road sparse, but there are frequent bus services
Scenic route to the south. Córdoba is well served by
trains, including the AVE high-speed train
Main railway
0 kilometres
with fast connections to Seville, Madrid,
20 Provincial border Málaga and as far as Lleida. Jaén is served
0 miles 10 Summit by four direct trains per day to Córdoba.
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142 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2
CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 143
built in the 10th century for 6 Montoro more than 50 years to finish. The
Caliph Abd al Rahman III, who Córdoba. Road map D2. * 9,600. @
townswomen sold their jewellery
named it after his wife. More n Plaza de España 8 (957 16 00 89). to raise funds for the bridge,
than 10,000 workers and 15,000 ( Tue. ∑ montoro.es hence its name: Puente de las
mules ferried building materials Donadas (Bridge of the Donors).
from as far as North Africa. Spread over five hills that span a Steep streets give the town
The palace is built on three bend in the River Guadalquivir, charm. In Plaza de España are
levels and includes a mosque, Montoro dates from the times the Ayuntamiento, former seat
the caliph’s residence and fine of the Greeks and Phoenicians. of the ducal rulers, with a
gardens. Alabaster, ebony, jasper Today the economy of this Plateresque façade, and the
and marble decoration adorned rather lethargic town depends Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia de
its many halls. on its olive groves. The solid San Bartolomé.
Unfortunately, the glory was bridge, which was designed by Leather bags and embossed
short-lived. The palace was Enrique de Egas, was started in saddlery are among several
sacked by Berber invaders in the time of the Catholic enduring crafts that are still
1010. Then, over centuries, it Monarchs (see pp52–3) and took produced in Montoro.
was ransacked for its building
materials. Now, the ruins give
only glimpses of its former
splendour – a Moorish main hall,
for instance, with marble
carvings and a fine wooden
ceiling. The palace is being
restored, but progress is slow.
5 Córdoba
See pp144–50. The 16th-century bridge spanning the Guadalquivir at Montoro
5 Belalcázar
An immense tower, part
Tips for Drivers
of a ruined castle built in Length: 190 km (118 miles).
1466, dominates the Stopping-off points: There are
skyline. In around 1480, many shady places to stop along
Sebastián de Belalcázar, the way to have a picnic. Some of
conqueror of Nicaragua, the villages along this route, such
El Viso was born here. as Fuente Obejuna, have
restaurants and bars.
Villaralto
6 Añora
Fuente la This town is famous for preserving
Lancha old customs, such as Cruces de
Mayo (May Crosses) (see p42).
Alcaracejos
7 Pedroche
A 56 m- (184 ft-)
Pelayo high granite
church tower,
with an alarming
crack in it, rises
above this village.
8 Pozoblanco Key
Pozoblanco entered Spanish
Tour route
Cordoba folklore on 26 September 1984,
when matador Paquirri was Other roads
fatally gored by a bull here. Mountain peak
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144 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
5 Street-by-Street: Córdoba
The heart of Córdoba is the old Jewish quarter
BEL
near the Mezquita, known as the Judería. A walk
BLA ONTE
M
around this area gives the visitor the sensation
NC
O
that little has changed since this was one of the
greatest cities in the Western world. Narrow,
cobbled streets where cars cannot penetrate,
secluded niches, wrought-iron gates, tiny Sinagoga
E
workshops where silversmiths create fine
QU
Hebrew script covers the
U
jewellery – all appears very much as it was 1,000 interior walls of this medieval
EL
years ago. Traffic roars along the riverfront, past synagogue, the only one
LL
remaining in Andalusia. CA
the replica of a Moorish water wheel and the
towering walls of the Great Mosque. Most of
DEAN
the sights are in this area, while modern city
life takes place some blocks north, around
ES
the Plaza de las Tendillas.
R
ZA
LA
SA
AL
EN
RD
CA
PL
JU
DÍ
OS
UEZ
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MAN
TO
M
ÁS
CO
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Capilla de San
Bartolomé, in
Baños del Alcázar Califales Mudéjar style,
These 10th-century Arab baths now contains elaborate
house a museum recreating the plasterwork.
history and uses of the baths.
AV E N
IDA D
OCT OR FL
EMING
To Barrio de
San Basilio
0 metres 75
D
ES M (957 40 02 02 & 902 24 02 02).
AG @ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas
IS
RO
TR (957 40 40 40).
RE
A
ER
L
G
H
O
N
ZÁ
LE . Mezquita
The mighty walls of the
AL
Z
FR
EN
N
CÉ forest of delicate
CA
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arches, pillars
and a dazzling
mihrab.
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RR
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Triunfo de
San Rafael
St Raphael, the
Puerta del city’s patron saint,
Puente is honoured by
this 18th-century
S
statue. Puerta del
O Puente, nearby,
RÍ
S was once part of
LO
D
E the city walls.
R
O
D
A
M
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Palacio Episcopal
today the Palacio
SA
de Congresos y
ISA
ST
Exposiciones houses
A
DE
TE
ND
SA
RO
D
E
JO
RN
ET
Puente Romano
The Romans were the
first to build a bridge
over the Río Guadal-
quivir. Rebuilt many
times, the bridge still
rests on its original
Roman foundations,
hence its name.
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146 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Exploring Córdoba
Córdoba’s core is the old city around the Mezquita on the banks
of the Guadalquivir. Its origins are probably Carthaginian; the
name may be derived from Kartuba, Phoenician for “rich and
precious city”. Under the Romans it was a provincial capital and
birthplace of philosopher Seneca. However, Córdoba’s golden
age was in the 10th century when Abd al Rahman III created an
independent caliphate with Córdoba as its capital. Its influence
spread to North Africa and the Balearic Islands. Córdoba was
a centre of trade, industry and learning, where Jews and
Christians lived alongside Muslims. Civil war (see pp50–51)
ended the caliphate and the city was pillaged. It declined
after falling to Fernando III in 1236, although a number of Naranjas y Limones (Oranges and Lemons)
fine buildings have since been erected. in Museo Julio Romero de Torres
Sights at a Glance
1 Sinagoga 7 Museo Arqueológico
2 Baños del Alcázar Califales 8 Museo Julio Romero de Torres
3 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and Museo de Bellas Artes
4 Puente Romano 9 Plaza de la Corredera
5 Torre de la Calahorra
Train Station
6 Mezquita 1km (0.6 miles)
Bus Station
1km (0.6 miles)
N
AL
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PLAZA FO
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DR. EMILIO CL II
RÍA
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SA N
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MA
San Juan O LO
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IA Romano
SÁ
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Iglesia de
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Iglesia de
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Convento de
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la Encarnación
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Episcopal E LA C
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LUIS D
C A R LO S
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O R D E LO S R Í O S ALHÓNDIGA
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DE LA R
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Triunfo de Puerta del Puente
San Rafael 0 metres 250
ASA
DE IS
Alcázar
RO NDA
de los Reyes vir 0 yards 250
Cristianos d alqui
Gua
Río
Puente
Romano Key
Torre de la
Calahorra
Street-by-Street (See pp144–5)
Expansion of the
Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the original
mosque. Extensions were added
by Abd al Rahman II, al Hakam II
and al Mansur.
Key to Floorplan
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
Patio de los Naranjos
KEY
Cathedral
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Part of the mosque was
destroyed to accommodate
Practical Information
the cathedral, started in
Calle Torrijos s/n. Tel 957 47 05 12.
1523. Featuring an Italianate
∑ mezquitadecordoba.org
dome, it was chiefly
Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
designed by members of
8:30–11:30am & 3–6pm Sun &
the Hernán Ruiz family.
religious hols (Mar–Oct:
10am–7pm Mon–Sat). & 5
9:30am Mon–Sat; 10:30am & 1pm
Sun & pub hols.
. Capilla de Villaviciosa
. Mihrab The first Christian chapel to
This prayer niche, richly ornamented, be built in the mosque, in
held a gilt copy of the Koran. The worn 1371, the Capilla de
flagstones indicate where pilgrims Villaviciosa has stunning
circled it seven times on their knees. multi-lobed arches.
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150 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Whitewashed
walls Tiled portrait of saint Orange trees
Andalusian Patio
This scene, painted by García
Rodríguez (1863–1925), evokes a
style of patio that is still common
in Andalusia. The patio walls are
usually immaculately whitewashed,
contrasting with the colourful display
of geraniums and carnations in
terracotta pots. Fragrant blooms of
jasmine add to the atmosphere.
7 Montilla 9 Lucena
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 23,000. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 40,000.
£ @ n Calle Capitan Alonso de @ n Palacio de los Condes de Santa
Vargas 3 (957 65 24 62). ( Fri. Ana, Calle San Pedro 42 (957 51 32 82).
( Wed. ∑ turlucena.com
Montilla is the centre of an
important wine-making region, Lucena prospers from furniture
but one that finds it difficult to making and from its brass and
emerge from the shadow of a copper manufacturers, and
more famous rival. The excellent produces interesting ceramics.
white wine is made in the same Under the caliphs of Córdoba
way as sherry (see pp34–5) and (see p50) it was an important
tastes rather like it but, unlike trading and intellectual centre, Statue of Santo Domingo, Iglesia Santo
sherry, does not need fortifying with a dynamic, independent, Domingo in Cabra
with alcohol. Some bodegas, Jewish community.
including Alvear and Pérez Iglesia de Santiago, with a also some noble mansions and
Barquero, are happy to Baroque turret, was built on the the Iglesia Santo Domingo with
welcome visitors. site of a synagogue in 1503. a Baroque façade.
The Mudéjar Convento de The Torre del Moral is the only Just outside the town, the
Santa Clara dates from 1512 remaining part of a Moorish Fuente del Río, source of
and the castle from the 18th castle. Granada’s last sultan, the Río Cabra, is a pleasantly
century. The town library is in Boabdil, was captured in 1483, leafy spot in which to picnic.
the Casa del Inca, so named and imprisoned here. Nearby,
because Garcilaso de la Vega, the 15th-century Iglesia de
who wrote about the Incas, San Mateo has a flamboyant q Baena
lived there in the 16th century. Baroque sacristy.
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 20,000.
On the first Sunday in May @ n Virrey del Pino 5 (957 67 17 57).
Bodega Alvear Lucena stages an elaborate ( Thu.
Avenida María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65 ceremony, which honours the
01 00. Open daily (call first to arrange Virgen de Araceli. Baena’s olive oil has been famed
visit). ∑ alvear.es since Roman times. At the top
Bodega Pérez Barquero of the whitewashed town is
Avenida Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65 05 0 Cabra Iglesia Santa María la Mayor.
00. Open phone ahead to make an On the Plaza de la Constitución
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 21,000.
appt, or e-mail info@perezbarquero. stands the handsome, modern
@ n Calle Mayor 1 (957 52 34 93).
com. ∑ perezbarquero.com town hall. The Casa del Monte,
( Mon. ∑ turismo.cabra.eu
an arcaded mansion dating
Set amid fertile fields and vast from the 18th century, flanks
olive groves, Cabra was an it on one side.
episcopal seat in the 3rd century. Easter week is spectacular,
On a rise stands the former castle, when thousands of drummers
which is now a school. There are take to the streets (see p38).
8 Aguilar
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 13,500.
£ @ n Cuesta de Jesús 2, Edificio
Antiguo Posito (957 66 15 67). ( Tue,
Thu & Fri.
r Jaén R Catedral
Plaza de Santa María. Tel 953 23 42 33.
The Moors knew Jaén as geen, meaning “way station of Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm Mon–Sat,
caravans”. Their lofty fortress, later rebuilt as the Castillo de (to 7pm Sat), 10am–noon, 4–7pm Sun.
Santa Catalina, symbolizes Jaén’s strategic importance on Andrés de Vandelvira, responsible
for many of Úbeda’s fine buildings
the route to Andalusia from the more austere Castile. For
(see pp158–9), designed the
centuries this area was a battleground between Moors and cathedral in the 16th century.
Christians (see pp52–3). The older, upper part of the city holds Later additions include two
most interest. Around the cathedral and towards the Barrio 17th-century towers that flank
San Juan are numerous seigneurial buildings, long winding the west front. Inside are beauti-
streets and steep alleys. The city centre is filled with smart fully carved choir stalls and a
museum with valuable art.
shops, and in the evenings the narrow streets near Plaza de Every Friday, from 10:30am–
la Constitución are filled with people enjoying the tapeo in noon and 5–6pm, worshippers
the many bars. can view the Lienzo del Santo
Rostro. St Veronica is said to have
used this piece of cloth to wipe
Christ’s face, which left a
permanent impression.
P Baños Arabes
Palacio Villardompardo, Plaza Santa
Luisa de Marillac. Tel 953 24 80 68.
Open 8:45am–9:30pm Tue–Sat,
9:15am–2:45pm Sun. Closed
public hols.
These 11th-century baths are
known as the baths of Ali, a
Moorish chieftain. They were
restored during the 1980s. The
Mighty ramparts of Castillo de Santa Catalina interior features horseshoe arches,
ceilings decorated with tiny star-
+ Castillo de Santa built with huge ramparts. shaped windows, a hemispherical
Catalina This has been restored and dome and two earthenware vats
Carretera al Castillo. Tel 953 12 07 33 a medieval-style parador (inn) in which bathers once immersed
(tourist centre), 953 23 00 00 (parador). built next door. themselves. The baths are entered
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & It is worthwhile taking the through the Palacio Villardom-
Hannibal is believed to have sinuous road up to the Torre pardo, which also houses a
erected a tower on this rocky del Homenaje and the castle museum of local arts and crafts.
pinnacle, high above the city. chapel. Even more rewarding
Later the Moors established a are the great views of the R Capilla de San Andrés
fortress, only to lose it to the city, the mountains and the Tucked away in a narrow alley
crusading King Fernando III in landscape, thick with next to a college lies this
1246. A larger castle was then olive trees. Mudéjar chapel. It was founded
Olive Oil
Olive oil is the life-blood of Jaén and its province. Since the
Phoenicians, or possibly the Greeks, brought the olive tree to Spain
it has flourished in Andalusia, particularly in Jaén, which today has an
annual production of more than 200,000 tonnes of oil. Harvesting,
mostly by hand, takes
place from December
onwards. Quality is
controlled by a system
known as Denominación
de Origen Controlada.
The best product, virgin
olive oil, is made from the
first cold-pressing, so that
the full flavour, vitamins
Harvest time in one of the many olive and nutrients of the oil
groves in Andalusia are preserved. Horseshoe arches supporting the dome at
the Baños Arabes
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2
CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 153
Santo
Sights at a Glance Domingo
0 metres 250
PLAZA. DE SA N TA
TÓ N S. JUAN
4 Catedral RE V EN C RU Z
Castillo de
N DE P
H U E R TA S
B AR T O LOM É
A GU ILA
N
CAST I LLA
VA L A C I Ó
LA CU MB
RE S
PLAZA DE
JACINTO
IÓN
HIGUERAS
V I S TA
EST O DE
Bus
SAN
Station
UN
AC
PLAZA
SE
SA
DE CIRC
OS
DE LOS ANDÚJAR
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A
PA
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M E N DR
EN
RO
TO
PA R RI
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LA
BU
San SO AD
AR
DE
AD A
D
LE RE
SAN CLE
M NID
Bartolomé
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S
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AL
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SA LI D O A
PLAZA DE
N
A
Ancient CERVANTES
TE
Arco de
C
de Vilches
BA PLAZA
ZO ÍA
C ER Ó N
R DE LA
Diputación DE CONSTITUCIÓN
M ON TE
PLAZA A
SC
DE LA Palacio PE
MERCED Arzobispal PLAZA
RO M OY
LA DEL
C O BO
IGNA C IO F I G
PA PÓSITO
Z
TA
CAMPANAS
AL
B ER N AB É SO R I A NO
ED
A
A LT
M ED
AD RC Iglesia San
E S TA ME PLAZA DE
Catedral HUR TAD O Ildefonso
CRUZ ISPO
.A RUEDA O B
IN A
N
U E R OA
A
CO NDE Ayuntamiento M UÑO Z G A R NI CA
D ÍA Z
MES A S .F ER NA N D O P ED RO
Monasterio de
Santa Teresa
M ERO
C O E L LO J OR G E M O R ALE S LO S R O
The Moorish Castillo de la Mota and the ruined church crowning the hill above Alcalá la Real
r Jaén
See pp152–3.
t Andújar
Jaén. Road map D2. * 40,000. £
@ n Torre del Reloj Plaza de Santa
Maria s/n (953 50 49 59). ( Tue.
www.ebook3000.com
156 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
p Street-by-Street: Baeza
Nestling amid olive groves, beautiful Baeza is a small
town, unusually rich in Renaissance architecture. In
2003 it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Called
Beatia by the Romans and later the capital of a Moorish
fiefdom, Baeza is portrayed as a “royal nest of hawks” on
its coat of arms. It was conquered by Fernando III in
1226 – the first town in Andalusia to be definitively won
back from the Moors – and was then settled by Castilian . Palacio de Jabalquinto
knights. An era of medieval splendour followed, An Isabelline (see p28) style
reaching a climax in the 16th century, when Andrés de façade, flanked by elaborate,
rounded buttresses, fronts
Vandelvira’s splendid buildings were erected. In the
this splendid Gothic palace.
early 20th century, Antonio Machado, one of his
generation’s greatest poets, lived here for some years. RI
E
IP EN
N FEL
SA
PLAZA
S A N TA
CRUZ
BE
AT
O
ÁV
IL
A
A
ÑÍ
M PA
CO
RO
M
AN
Antigua Universidad ON
From 1542 until 1825, this ES
Renaissance and Baroque B A R B AC A N A
building was the site of one
of Spain’s first universities.
Torre de los
Aliatares is a
1,000-year-old tower
built by the Moors. IAS
To Úbeda ADER
MERC
PLAZA DE PA S E O D E L A CO N S T I T U C I Ó N
E S PA Ñ A
PA S E
O
DE
TU
ND
O. N A R VA E Z
IDO
RE
S
A
RR
CE
BE
Casas
Consistoriales Bajas
AR
SP
Ayuntamiento
GA
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jaén. Road map E2. * 19,000.
n Plaza del Pópulo s/n (953 77
99 82). ( Tue. _ Semana Santa
(Easter); Feria (mid-Aug).
∑ andalucia.org
Transport
£ Linares-Baeza 15 km (9 miles)
(902 24 02 02). @ Avda Alcalde
Puche Pardo (953 74 24 53).
PLAZA
S A N TA
MARÍA
. Catedral
The impressive
cathedral was rebuilt in
1567 by Andrés de
Vandelvira. The Capilla
Sagrario has a beautiful
OB
choir screen by
IS
Bartolomé de Jaén.
PO
M
EN
GI
BA
R
Department.
To Jaén
Key
Tourist information
Suggested route
www.ebook3000.com
158 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
PLAZA
EN
Sights at a Glance
A R RMT O
OLLEROS
E
HU
1 Hospital de Santiago
CU E A L
SAN
A DEL C
EC
2 Museo Arqueológico
S
E
T
ST U
T PLAZA DEL
FU E N CARMEN
A CIA
DO
3 Iglesia de San Pablo AN S Convento
DE
R N IO
FE ARR de San Miguel
DO
B
4 Capilla del Salvador AS
MONTEL
COB O
AN
M AT
IC OL ILLA
Hospital de los
N N
S
RN
JA E
DE
RO QU
S
CA Arqueológico ENA
de Úbeda S
MI
RO
LL
DER
TR PLAZA DE VAZQUEZ
RRE
IN AYUNTAMIENTO DE MOLINA
A
ORES
ID
ALC
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AD REA
CO
Palacio de
LLE
CA
CA
las Cadenas
Iglesia de la J
A
LLE
PLAZA DE
AVE NID A RAM ON
A
SO E
TO
NE
LL IN
M EC A L L
SAN
E PLAZA DEL TR
CO
MARQUES J U R
AD
Parque OG
A
Iglesia de O M EZ
RA
RI
Vandelvira
S
San Isidoro
TO
BO
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A
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CO
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R
AN
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A D R E S Santiago
D
SA RI
E
N ID A GA VA
AV E DE LIN PLAZA S T A S
D AD C
A DE TOROS
C IU E
LL
LA AVEN
Y
SA
RE
N C O ID A
NS
O
LINARES JO T IT D E
IST
SE UC
BAILEN IO N
CR
0 yards 250
AV
BAEZA
JAEN
The golden eagle (Aquila Griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) The lammergeier (Gypaetus
chrysaetus), king of the air, circle high above the reserve, barbatus) drops bones from a
preys on small mammals descending rapidly when they height on to rocks to smash
living in the reserve. catch sight of their prey. them and eat the marrow.
Landscape
The area’s craggy
limestone heights and
riverside meadows are
part of its attraction.
Water trickles down the
mountains, filling the
lakes and brooks of the
valley. This lush land-
scape provides ideal
habitats for a diversity
of wildlife.
Red deer (Cervus elaphus), The Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica) Otters (Lutra lutra) live
reintroduced to the area in is amazingly sure-footed on the rocky around lakes and
1952, are most commonly terrain. Today, the few that remain streams and are active at
seen in the autumn months. only emerge at dusk in order to feed. dawn and dusk.
Wild boar (Sus scrofa) hide in
woodland by day and forage at
night for anything from acorns to
roots, eggs of ground-nesting birds
and small mammals.
www.ebook3000.com
ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA 163
CÁDIZ AND
MÁLAGA
Andalusia’s southern provinces offer striking contrasts.
Beyond Málaga’s suburbs are forested mountains with awesome natural
wonders, such as the Garganta del Chorro. Behind the tourist resorts of the
Costa del Sol is the Serranía de Ronda, habitat of elusive wildlife. Here, white
Moorish towns command strategic hilltop locations. East of Gibraltar are the sherry
towns of Cádiz province and the raw coastal strands of the Costa de la Luz.
In Málaga province the mountains fall the Costa del Sol. The mountains of North
steeply to the Mediterranean. The ancient Africa loom across the Strait of Gibraltar,
port of Málaga town was a wintering and the spirit of the Moors can be felt very
place for English travellers in the 19th clearly in Tarifa and Cádiz – author Laurie
century; then in the 1960s, the narrow Lee’s city “sparkling with African light”.
strip of coast to its east and west was Between these two towns is the Cádiz
claimed by the nascent tourist industry section of the Costa de la Luz (“Coast of
as the “Costa del Sol”. Light”) (see p36) which continues up
A rash of high-rise developments around north along the shores of Huelva province.
the beaches of grey sand at its eastern end Little developed, it is characterized by
soon made the name “Torremolinos” long stretches of windswept sand, popular
synonymous with the excesses of cheap with locals and windsurfers.
package holidays for the mass market. North of Cádiz is sherry country, with its
Meanwhile, further southwest at Marbella, hills and large vineyards. To taste sherry
an exclusive playground for international visit Jerez de la Frontera – once a link in
film stars and Arab royalty was taking shape. a chain of towns on the frontier of the
Gibraltar, a geographical and a historical Christian war to reconquer Andalusia
oddity, is a decisive full stop at the end of from its Muslim rulers.
Olvera
Puerto Serrano
Sevilla Algondales
Trebujena Setenil
Espera Villamartín
Zahara de
Embalse la Sierra RONDA
SANLÚCAR DE Bornos de Bornos LA VIEJA
BARRAMEDA ARCOS DE LA Grazalema
FRONTERA
Embalse de RONDA
CHIPIONA los Hurones
JEREZ DE ete
S
Ubrique
al
LA FRONTERA Algar O
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A
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Tarifa
r alt
Motorway Gib
de
Major road cho
Estre Punta
Minor road Almina
Sights at a Glance
1 Sanlúcar de Barrameda w Tangier pp174–5 s Parque Natural Sierra de
2 Chipiona e Ceuta las Nieves
3 Jerez de la Frontera r Melilla d Álora
4 El Puerto de Santa María t Gibraltar pp176–7 f Garganta del Chorro
5 Cádiz pp168–71 y La Línea de la Concepción g Fuente de Piedra
6 Medina Sidonia u Sotogrande h Antequera
7 Vejer de la Frontera o Arcos de la Frontera j El Torcal
8 Barbate p Ronda la Vieja k Archidona
9 Baelo Claudia a Ronda pp180–81 l Nerja
0 Tarifa z La Axarquia
q Los Alcornocales Córdoba x Montes de Málaga
c Málaga
Puente Genil Granada v Torremolinos
b Benalmádena
FUENTE DE n Fuengirola
PIEDRA ARCHIDONA m Marbella
Campillos , Estepona
QUIA
Becerro
MONTES DE AR
Carratraca ÁLORA MÁLAGA AX
E
El Burgo T H Vélez Torrox
Motril
Pizarra
Malaga
a M ÁLAGA MÁLAGA
nd Torre NERJA
Ro Alozaina Cártana
Rincón de del Mar
PARQUE la Victoria
NATURAL Coín Alhaurín
SIERRA DE el Grande
LAS NIEVES TORREMOLINOS
Ojén
BENALMÁDENA MELILLA
FUENGIROLA 0 kilometres 20
Calahonda l 0 miles 10
San Pedro
MARBELLA
So
De Alcantara
d e l
t a
o s
C
Getting Around
Málaga’s international airport (see p265) is the busiest
airport in Andalusia, and opened a third terminal in
2010. The main highway linking the Costa del Sol
resorts is the A7/N340, with the AP7 toll road an
option from Fuengirola to Guadiaro. After Algeciras,
the road narrows and continues (N340 and A48) to
Cádiz. The highway A376 from San Pedro de
Alcántara northwards to Ronda is a sensationally
beautiful route. The A382 and A384 cut across the
north from Jerez towards Antequera. The route then
continues as a dual carriageway, known as the A92,
to Granada. A railway running along the Costa del
Sol links Málaga, Torremolinos and Fuengirola.
Another heads north from Málaga, stopping at
Álora, El Chorro and Fuente de Piedra. Although you
will find it possible to explore remote corners of
Cádiz and Málaga provinces using the complex bus The beach of Nerja, situated at the foot of Sierra
network, it requires some patience. de Almijara on the Costa del Sol
www.ebook3000.com
166 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Bodegas of Jerez
Real Escuela Andaluza
Touring bodegas and tasting de Arte Ecuestre
Bodegas
sherry is one of the major L
C
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The most comprehensive & Warter
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tours are those that are
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offered by González Byass,
LA
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P.
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Plaza de C. JUA N E
GU
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and Sandeman. C. ET
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5 Cádiz
Jutting out of the Bay of Cádiz, and almost entirely surrounded
by water, Cádiz can lay claim to being Europe’s oldest city.
Legend names Hercules as its founder, although history credits
the Phoenicians with establishing the town of Gadir in 1100
BC. Occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans and Moors in turn,
the city also prospered after the Reconquest (see pp52–3) on
wealth taken from the New World. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake
raided the port in the first of many British attacks in the war
for world trade. In 1812 Cádiz briefly became Spain’s capital
Saint Bruno in Ecstasy by Zurbarán
when the nation’s first constitution was declared here (see p56). in the Museo de Cádiz
Exploring Cádiz The joy of visiting Cádiz is to The pride of Cádiz is Los
Writers have waxed lyrical over wander the harbour quayside, Carnavales (see p43). Under the
Cádiz for centuries: “ … the most with its well-tended gardens and dictator Franco, Cádiz was the
beautiful town I ever beheld … open squares, then plunging only city where the authorities
and full of the finest women in into the centre (see p170–71). failed to suppress the anarchy
Spain,” gushed Lord Byron in The old town is full of narrow, of carnival.
1809. Modern Cádiz is a busy dilapidated alleys, where flowers
port, with a few ugly suburbs to sprout from rusting cans mounted R Cádiz Cathedral
get through before arriving at on walls beside religious tile Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat;
the historic centre. This is situated paintings. Markets pack into tiny 1–6:30pm Sun (10am–2pm pub hols).
on a peninsula that juts sharply squares, alive with the bartering Known as the Catedral Nueva
into the sea, and consists of of fish and vegetables, and (New Cathedral) because it was
haphazardly heaped, Moorish- street vendors selling pink built over the site of an older
style houses. boiled shrimps in newspaper. one, this Baroque and Neo-
Classical church is one of Spain’s
Cádiz Cathedral The cupola was built between 1812 largest. Its dome of yellow tiles
and 1838 by Juan Daura, the last in a looks like gilt glinting in the sun.
long line of architects of this cathedral. The carved stalls inside came
Baroque vaults from a Carthusian monastery. In
the crypt are the tombs of the
composer Manuel de Falla (1876–
1946) and writer José Maria
Stalls Pemán (1897–1981), both natives
of Cádiz. The cathedral’s treasures
are stored in a museum in Plaza
Fray Félix and include jewel-
studded monstrances of silver
and gold, and notable paintings.
E Museo de Cádiz
Plaza de Mina s/n. Tel 856 10 50 23.
Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; mid-Sep–
May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. 7
On the ground floor there are
archaeological exhibits charting
the history of Cádiz, including
statues of Roman emperors, such
as Trajan, and Phoenician stone
The presbytery sarcophagi. Upstairs is one of
altar was partly Andalusia’s largest art galleries,
sponsored by
displaying works by Rubens,
Isabel II (see
pp56–7). Murillo and Zurbarán, as well as
paintings by recognized contem-
Neo-Classical porary Spanish artists. On the
Neo-Classical façade third floor is a collection of
towers puppets made for village fiestas
CÁDIZ 169
Catamaran Crossing
Rather than drive up the isthmus into Cádiz,
you can travel by ferry across the bay
from El Puerto de Santa María (see p167).
A fast catamaran is part of the public
transportation system and provides a
regular service roughly every 30 minutes.
The catamaran takes 30 minutes to cross
the bay and is accessible for disabled
travellers. It is identified as the B-042 line
and timetables for the service can be
found on the website (Tel: 902 45 05 50;
www.siu.cmtbc.es).
A catamaran crossing the Bay of Cádiz
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6
www.ebook3000.com
170 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
G U ÍA
D IO N
R
PA
D E D IC IÓ
resonance for the people of
S
OM
MUR
LL
BEN
Cádiz, and Spain itself. In 1812, ENR
É
IQUE
VEA
OM
III
DE LA
SM
Cádiz was home to a short-
OL
ARIN
OS
AS
RT
PLAZA DE M.
RL
BA
NÚÑEZ (DEL V E E
CA
lived alternative parliament to MENTIDERO) DOR
A
IN
DA
GR
U LE S
E
S
CE
AV
establish democratic
L LO
RV
SAN AN
H ÉR C
Parque
BA
TA R TE
OSA
A café-lined lane near the central Plaza rule was crushed by
CE
Genovés LÍ A PLAZA DE S
VIUDAS
San Juan de Dios the monarchy. PLAZA
MANUEL BEN
BALUARTE JU M
CAL DE FALLA
Across the plaza, DEL
0 LE B
EN
EDA
E
BONETE PÉRE
Z G A IT O
RR
Plaza San Juan de Dios to turn left into q
TO
LDÓ
S C A LL
E SA
Parque Genovés Fernando CRAM
ENTO
AR IA S
TOR
C E PCIÓ
MAR O BI SP
AÑÓ O CA LV O
offers many cafés and shops. which N
AEL
Y VA LE
RO
IE GO
CON
C. D
SAN
LA TIZA ÓN
2, part of Cádiz’s busy and the town of Puerto de Playa de t
CA LL EJ
A CA RD OS O
PE ÑA LB
A
shopping district. Nueva runs Santa María opposite, an la Caleta M. PINED
SA G A
PAL MA )
E
STA
PER
EZ U EL A
hugging Cádiz’s sea y C . V EN
walls. You pass the CAMP O DEL SUR
Alameda Apodaca 7,
one of numerous
gardens boasting vast
dragon trees, and the Tips for Walkers
Baluarte (battlement)
Starting point: Plaza San
de la Candelaria 8, Juan de Dios.
now a contemporary Length: 4 km (3 miles)
arts centre. Turn left Getting there: Plaza San Juan
again into Avenida de Dios is next to the port and
Carlos III, passing the a few minutes’ walk from rail and
Universidad and the bus stations.
lovely Parque Genovés Stopping-off points: The family-
owned Bar Terraza on the Plaza
9, with its avenue of
de la Catedral s/n has outdoor
symmetrical topiary seating with a fantastic view of
trees, open-air theatre the cathedral.
9 Taking a stroll in leafy Parque Genovés and café.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6
A GUIDED WALK 171
6
L
AT Ó
C A7
PLAZA DE PLAZA DE
Alameda ARGÜELLES LASTRES Caleta to Catedral
F. C
LD CARABELAS
ER
L IC A
Apodaca
ÓN
DE PLAZA DE LA From Caleta, Calle de Nájera
LA HISPANIDAD
C AT Ó
BA
RC PLAZA DE
joins the Campo del Sur
ES
A
S
LA
ESPAÑA
A IR
BE
AN TO NI
4
OS
O
IS A BE
LÓ PE Z
RA
CA
DE MINA
BU
DE SAN
3
RE
ANTONIO
down to San Felix and the most
AV D A
PLAZA
DE SAN
AN FRANCISCO famous fish restaurant in the
SÉ
CA
. RAM
CH
JO
LL
SA
ÓN D
RO
FR
TA
SA
AN
RI
CI
O
G
CA
AV
SC
SA
RR
A
PAT .D
AN
ZA
RG
PU
LA
e
A
PO ER
ME
NC TO
LU
E
2
CO
HOS CANDELARIA
O
PIT where pastel-colour buildings
NU
MUJEAL DE PLAZA DE NC
RES ME
EV
TOPETE FLA
A
COB OS
AD
r
ES
DE DIOS
and finished only in
TA
TA
PE LO
O BISPO
DE
DE DI O
SOP
PLAZA DE RA N 1838. Several architects
LA
LA CRUZ PLAZA DE LA IS
S
VERDE AN CATEDRAL
SA N JU contributed to its mix
CA
AN
LE
i
SA N JU
SA
of Baroque, Rococo
S
u SUR
CAM
RA
CAM UR
CO The views from its bell
NC
EP
CIÓ
Key N
AR
M IR A
DOR towers repay the climb.
EN
AL Calle Pelota, opposite,
Walk route leads back to Plaza San
Juan de Dios.
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
7 Vejer de
la Frontera
Carved retablo, Iglesia de Santa María la Cádiz. Road map B4. * 13,000.
Coronada, Medina Sidonia n In Ayuntamiento, c/Marques de
Tamarón 10 (956 45 17 36).
6 Medina Sidonia ∑ vejerdelafrontera.co.uk
Cádiz. Road map B4. * 11,500. @
n Plaza Iglesia Mayor s/n (956 41 24 Attractively located on a hilltop
04). ( Mon. above Barbate, Vejer de la
Frontera was one of the first
As you drive along the N440, places occupied by the Muslim The lighthouse on Cabo de Trafalgar, near
between Algeciras and Jerez, invaders in 711, shortly after Barbate on Costa de la Luz
Medina Sidonia appears they had defeated the Visigoths
startlingly white atop a conical in battle close by (the exact site 8 Barbate
hill. The town was taken from is not known). Cádiz. Road map B4. * 22,000.
the Moors in 1264 by Alfonso X, The oldest part of town is n Paseo Marítimo 5 (956 06 36 13).
and during the 15th century the enclosed by an irregular wall ∑ barbate.es
Guzmán family were established that is protected by three
as the Dukes of Medina Sidonia towers and entered by four The largest coastal settlement
to defend the territory between gates. Within the walled area between Cádiz and Tarifa,
here and the Bay of Cádiz. After are the Arab castle and the Barbate stands at the mouth of
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), parish church, the Iglesia the eponymous river, in an area
the family grew rich from Parroquial del Divino Salvador, of marshes and saltflats. There
investments in the Americas, which was built on the site of is not much of interest in the
and Medina Sidonia became a mosque between the 14th town itself, but two small
one of the most important and 16th centuries, in a tourist resorts attached to
ducal seats in Spain. Many parts mixture of Gothic and Mudejar it are worth visiting.
of the town’s medieval walls still architecture. Later buildings A short way south down the
coast is Zahara de los
Atunes, which has
grown up along one
of the coast’s best
beaches. The epithet
of “the tuna fish” is a
reminder of an
important industry in
these waters. Barbate’s
culinary speciality is
mojama, tuna that has
been cured in the same
way as jamón serrano.
Inland from Zahara,
around the main N340
coast road, are large
swathes of wind
turbines generating
electricity for the
The fortified walls surrounding the Old Town of Vejer de la Frontera national grid. The road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6
CÁDIZ AND MÁLAGA 173
Windfarms
North of Tarifa, the wind blows with
such reliable force that it is used to
drive wind turbines to generate
electricity. Spain has the world’s
second-highest installed capacity of
windpower after Germany, and the
country aims to meet 20 per cent of
its energy needs from renewable
resources by 2020. Critics argue that
windpower works only when the
wind is strong enough and that the
turbines are unsightly. Another
objection, that the blades of the
turbines are a hazard to birds, hasn’t
The characteristic turbines of a windfarm north of Tarifa been substantiated by evidence.
north out of Barbate (past the and gradually grew in q Parque Natural
fishing port) climbs over a importance through trade with de Los Alcornocales
headland fringed by cliffs and North Africa and its fish
planted with dense pine salting and pickling works. Cádiz and Málaga. Road map B4.
n Visitor’s Centre A-2228, km 1 –
woods to drop down to the Emperor Claudius
Parque Natural de los Alcornocales
small holiday resort of (41–54 AD) elevated
(856 58 75 08). ∑ alcornocales.org
Los Caños de Meca, Baelo Claudia to the
which grew up as a status of municipality,
hippy hideaway in the but its prestige was This nature reserve is named
1970s and still has a short-lived, since it was after the alcornocales, cork oak
carefree feel to it. effectively destroyed by trees that are prevalent in many
On a short sand spit an earthquake in the parts of it. They are easily
nearby stands a 2nd century and finally identified because they have
lighthouse marking the abandoned in the 6th been stripped of their lower
Cabo de Trafalgar (Cape century. The ruins, which bark, leaving the vivid red
Trafalgar), which gave include a theatre, a heartwood showing. The far
its name to the naval necropolis and several south of the natural park is
battle fought on 21 Statue of Trajan at erect columns, are in crossed by deep valleys called
October 1805. Early in Baelo Claudia a picturesque spot canutos, in which rare vestiges
the morning of that next to a beautiful of Europe’s ancient fern-rich
day, Britain’s Admiral Nelson beach beside the small forests cling on.
decided to take on the settlement of Bolonia. Apart from its wildlife, the
combined fleet of Spanish and area has a few towns worth
French ships that had left Cádiz visiting, including Jimena de la
two days earlier. The British 0 Tarifa Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera
were outnumbered and Cádiz. Road map B4. * 16,000. @
and Medina Sidonia (see p172),
outgunned but defeated the n Paseo de la Alameda s/n (956 68 and several caves holding
enemy without the loss of a 09 93). ( Tue. ∑ tarifaweb.com prehistoric paintings.
single ship. Nelson, however,
was struck by a musket ball late Tarifa, Europe’s wind- and kite-
in the battle and died soon after. surfing capital (see p36) takes its
name from Tarif ben Maluk, an
8th-century Moorish commander.
9 Baelo Claudia The 10th-century Castillo de
Bolonia, Cádiz. Road map B4. Tel 956
Guzmán el Bueno is the site of
10 67 97. Open Apr–mid-Jun: 9am– a legend. In 1292, Guzmán, who
7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & was defending Tarifa from the
hols; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Moors, was told his hostage
Tue–Sun & hols; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am– son would die if he did not
5:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & surrender. Rather than give in,
hols. & (free to EU citizens). ∑ junta he threw down his dagger for
deandalucia.es/cultura/museos the captors to use.
www.ebook3000.com
174 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
w Tangier
Tangier is only 45 minutes by fast ferry from Tarifa, making it a
perfect day trip. Despite its proximity, this ancient Moroccan
port, founded by the Berbers before 1000 BC, will be a sharp
culture shock for those used to life in Europe. Tangier is
vibrant with eastern colour, and the vast, labyrinthine Medina,
the market quarter, pulsates with noise. From their workshops
in back alleys, craftsmen make traditional goods for busy
shops and stalls in the crowded streets. Yet behind wrought-
iron railings the traveller will see tranquil courtyards
View into the labyrinthine Medina
decorated with mosaics, cool fountains and mosques. from the Grand Socco
Sights at a Glance
1 Dar El Makhzen RIAD S U LTA N
RU E
2 Kasbah PLACE RUE
DU Kasbah PLACE L A I T OU N
TABOR
3 Hôtel Continental DE LA
KASBAH
RU
Continental
6 Grand Socco MA
E
I M OUNI
RU
TA N B RUE
7 American Legation E EL K
AP EN S
E
JNAN R A I IDI
R UE D A R
RUE
D
SOU
E
L
LA
KA
K
DE
SB
SSA
EL
DE
A
AB
H
RUE BEN
BA R
U
O
R U E M. T O
EB
OUD
S RES
U S E
UC C RU
RU E D E S CHR
B AI N
Place de la Kasbah. Tel 212 39 93 LA FUENTE
NUEVA
20 97. Open Wed–Mon. & R
NA UE M
A Grand
CO MM ER
E J R Mosque
ER RU KBI
C
É TI E N S
AR
RU
RUE MO KHT
E
PLACE
built within the Kasbah. Parc de la DE LA
AL I E
S TANNERIE
Mendoubia E E
The sultans lived here until RU GHIN
SIA
1912. It is now a museum PLACE DU
PROGRÈS
TO
U I NE
H
DI G
E R
SI R U
RT
D
E S
RU EL A L A
American PO
round a central courtyard and AY H
O ED
Legation
D
U
UB D E
in cool rooms with tiled ceilings. I IN RU
There are illuminated Korans in
the Fez Room and a courtyard 0 metres 100
www.ebook3000.com
176 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
t Gibraltar
Native Gibraltarians are descendents of British, Genoese Jews,
Portuguese and Spanish who remained after the Great Siege
(see p56). Britain seized Gibraltar during the War of the
Spanish Succession in 1704, and was granted it “in perpetuity”
by the Treaty of Utrecht (see p56) nine years later. As the
gateway to the Mediterranean, the Rock was essential to
Britain in colonial times. Tensions over Gibraltar have now
eased, with more co-operation between Spain and Britain
expected in the future. Each year, around 4 million people
stream across the frontier at La Línea to visit this speck of The Keep
England bolted on to Andalusia. Pubs, fish and chips, pounds The lower part of this Moorish
sterling and bobbies on the beat all contrast with Spain. castle, built in the 8th century, is
still used to house Gibraltar’s
prison population.
Siege Tunnels
Soldiers’ barracks and storerooms
fill 50 km (31 miles) of tunnels.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6
CÁDIZ AND MÁLAGA 177
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
United Kingdom.
Road map C4. * 35,000. n
Cathedral Square, Duke of Kent
House (200 74 950). ( Wed, Sat.
_ National Day (10 Sep).
Gibraltar Museum Open Mon–
Sat. Closed public hols.
& The Keep, St Michael’s Cave,
St Michael’s Cave Apes’ Den Open daily. Siege
La Línea de la Concepción, with Gibraltar
During World War II these caves Tunnels Open Mon–Sat. Closed in the distance
served as a bombproof military 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 Currency:
hospital. These days classical
concerts are performed here.
Gibraltar pound, pound sterling. y La Línea de la
Visas: not required for citizens of
the EU, US, Canada or Australia. Concepción
∑ gibraltar.gov.uk Cádiz. Road map C4. * 60,000. @
n Avenida de 20 Abril s/n (956 78 41
Transport
k Gibraltar. 35). ( Wed.
@ Waterport coach park.
La Línea is a town on the
Spanish side of the border with
Gibraltar. Its name, “The Line”,
refers to the old walls that once
formed the frontier, but were
demolished during the
Napoleonic wars to prevent the
French using them for defence.
Now it is a lively trading town,
with several hotels patronized by
people who want to avoid the
higher prices of Gibraltar hotels.
u Sotogrande
Cádiz. Road map C4. * 2,000.
@ San Roque. n Plaza de Armas,
s/n – Antigua Casa Consistorial
(956 69 40 05). ( Sun.
www.ebook3000.com
178 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Cádiz,
Jerez
Benaocaz
Embalse de los
Hurones
Parque Natural
1 Arcos de Charco de Sierra de
la Frontera los Hurones Grazalema
Sierra de
This strategically Ubrique
positioned town has
Cortes de la
been fortified for Frontera
centuries. From the
commanding heights of
this stronghold, there are fine
views over the Guadalete valley. rg a
nta
ga
oz
8 Jimena de la Frontera
oH
Rí Parque Natural de
An expanse of cork and olive trees los Alcornocales-
blankets the hills leading up to this Sierra del Aljibe
village. A ruined Moorish castle, iaro
ad
which is open to visitors, overlooks
Gu
Río
7 Gaucín
From here there are
unsurpassed vistas over the
Mediterranean, the Atlantic,
the great hump of Gibraltar 0 km 10
and across the strait to the Rif
mountains of North Africa. 0 miles 05
CÁDIZ AND MÁLAGA 179
o Arcos de la
Frontera
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 30,000.
@ n Calle Cuesta de Belén 5 (956
70 22 64). ( Fri.
a Street-by-Street: Ronda
One of the most spectacularly located cities in Spain,
Ronda sits on a massive rocky outcrop, straddling a
precipitous limestone cleft. Because of its impregnable
position this town was one of the last Moorish bastions,
finally falling to the Christians in 1485. On the south side
perches a classic Moorish pueblo blanco (see p178) of
cobbled alleys, window grilles and dazzling whitewash – . Puente Nuevo
most historic sights are in this old town. Across the Building the “New Bridge” over the nearly
gorge in El Mercadillo, the newer town, is one of Spain’s 100 m (330 ft) deep Tajo gorge was a feat of
oldest bullrings. civil engineering in the late 18th century.
Convento de Santo
To El Mercadillo, Plaza de Domingo was the local
Toros and Parador de headquarters of the
Ronda (see p219) Inquisition. GO
IN
M
O
D
SANTO
SA
AN N
TO
NIO
CA
LL
E
AR
MI
ÑÁ
Casa del Rey Moro N
TEN
Key 0 metres 75
Mirador El
DE
Campillo
L
. Palacio Mondragón
Much of this palace was rebuilt after
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), but its
arcaded patio is adorned with original
Moorish mosaics and plasterwork.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6
CÁDIZ AND MÁLAGA 181
EN Ayuntamiento
M
R The town hall was remodelled in the
A
C 20th century and incorporates parts of
ES
Bullfighting at Ronda
Ronda’s Plaza de Toros is the spiritual home of bull-
AR
M fighting. Inaugurated in 1785, it is one of the oldest,
IÑ
ÁN most important bullrings in Spain. Aficionados travel
from all over the country for the singular atmosphere
of the Corrida Goyesca (see p40); millions watch the
spectacle on television. It is the dream of every
aspiring matador to fight at Ronda. The classic
Ronda style (more severe than the
exuberant School of Seville)
was developed by Pedro
PLAZA Romero. Born in 1754, he is
DUQUESA known as the father of
D E PA R C E N T modern bullfighting
(see also pp30–31).
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182 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
g Fuente de Piedra
Málaga. Road map C3. £ @ n
C/Castillo 1 (952 73 54 53).
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184 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
l Nerja
Málaga. Road map D3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Puerta del Mar 2 (952 52 15
31). ( Tue. ∑ nerja.org
The Torre del Homenaje was On the hill directly behind the
Cuartos de built during the reign of Abd Alcazaba are the ruins of the
Granada Baño al Rahman I (756–88). 14th-century Moorish Castillo
de Gibralfaro.
Eastwards, on the road to Vélez
Málaga, is the unspoilt beach of
Rincón de la Victoria (see p37).
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186 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
n Fuengirola
Málaga. Road map C4. * 53,000.
£ @ n Avda Jesús Santos Rein 6
(952 46 74 57). ( Tue, Sat & Sun.
∑ fuengirola.org
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ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA 189
GRANADA
AND ALMERÍA
Eastern Andalusia is dominated by the Sierra Nevada,
Iberia’s highest range and one of Spain’s premier winter sports
venues. At its foot is Granada, once a Moorish kingdom, with a royal palace, the
Alhambra, straight out of One Thousand and One Nights. Ruined fortresses, relics
of a warring past, dominate the towns of Granada province. In Almería’s arid
interior, film directors have put to use atmospheric landscapes reminiscent of
Arabia or the Wild West.
At the point where the mountains of the villas and holiday apartment blocks are
Sierra Nevada meet the plain, 670 m also much in evidence here.
(2,200 ft) above sea level, nestles the East of Granada, the landscape becomes
ancient city of Granada, founded by the more arid. Around the town of Guadix,
Iberians. For 250 years it was the capital of a founded in Phoenician and Roman times,
Moorish kingdom whose borders enclosed thousands of people live in cave-houses.
both Almería and Málaga provinces. On a A statue of an Iberian goddess from pre-
ridge overlooking the city rises the royal Roman times was found at Baza, and at
citadel of the Alhambra, a complex of Los Millares, near Almería, there are traces
spacious palaces and water gardens. of a 4,000-year-old settlement.
The mountainous terrain of Granada Almería, a flourishing port in the
province is starkly impressive. Amid the Moorish era, has been revitalized by
ravines, crags and terraced fields of Las a new form of agriculture. Plastic
Alpujarras on the southern flank of the greenhouses now cover hectares of
Sierra Nevada, the villages seem to cling its surrounding province, producing
to the sheer slopes. fruit and vegetables all year round.
Along the coastal strip of Granada Along the sparsely populated coast of
province, avocados and custard apples Cabo de Gata, little-visited villages and
flourish in the subtropical climate. Hotels, bays doze in year-round sunshine.
Street view in Alpujarras de la Sierra, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background
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190 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Guadahortuna Villanueva
de las Torres
es
Córdoba
Fard
Benalúa
de las Villas Moreda Huélago
Iznalloz
Algarinejo Diezma
MONTEFRÍO
GUADIX
GR A NA D A
Embalse de Pinos-
Iznájar Huétor Puente Peligros
Tájar G enil
GRANADA LA CALAHORRA
Sevilla
LOJA SANTA FÉ
Riofrio
La Zubia Puerto de la Ragua
Mulhacén
3482m ADA
Pico Veleta NEV
Padul 3398m
A
ALHAMA RR
DE GRANADA SIE
Dúrcal Trevélez Válor
Embalse de los
Bermejales POQUEIRA VALLEY RA S
U JAR Cádiar
ALP
S
Sierr LANJARÓN LA
ad Órgiva
e Alm
ija
ra
Vélez de
Málaga Benaudalla
Albuñol
SALOBREÑA
0 kilometres 20 Motril
La Rábita Adra
0 miles 10
ALMUÑÉCAR C o
sta
Tropical
Sights at a Glance
1 Montefrío w La Calahorra a Níjar Key
2 Loja e Guadix s Sorbas Motorway
3 Alhama de Granada r Baza d Mojácar Major road
4 Santa Fé t Vélez Blanco
Tour Minor road
5 Granada pp194–202 y Tabernas
Scenic route
6 Almuñécar u Roquetas de Mar 9 Las Alpujarras
Major railway
7 Salobreña i Almería pp206–7
8 Lanjarón o Parque Natural de Minor railway
0 Poqueira Valley Cabo de Gata Provincial border
q Sierra Nevada p San José Summit
ra
u
g
Puebla de
Se
Sagra
2382m Don Fadrique
e
d
ra
er
Si
Huéscar
Castillejar Galera
VÉLEZ
María BLANCO
Avenida de Andalucía, the
l
Vélez Rubio
Gua
Embalse
de Negratin
Cúllar
Benamaurel Chirivel
Zújar Lorca
Caniles Pulpí
Albox
Huércal-Overa
Sierra Almanzora
de Baza Serón Purchena
Macael Cuevas del
Almanzora
A L M E R Í A Vera
Tetica de Bacares
2088m
Fiñana Sierra de los Filabres Uleila del Campo Garrucha
MOJÁCAR
Abla Gérgal
ra a
SORBAS er er
Si br
TABERNAS Ca
Laujar de
Andarax Canjáyar la
mil Carboneras
Alha
Sierra
Gádor NÍJAR L
R A TA Punta de los
Benahadux A Muertos
D TU
Sierra de
G
A
E
BO N
Gádor
CA UE
Berja Rodalquilar
ALMERÍA
DE RQ
lm El Cabo
A
El Ejido de Gata SAN JOSÉ
ROQUETAS e
DE MAR d
Cabo de Gata
ta
Cos
Getting Around
The A92 runs east to Guadix and then turns
south to Almería. The A92N continues east
from Guadix towards Lorca. The N340
follows the coast via Almería and the Costa
Tropical. The N323 links the coast with
Granada and the A348 connects the villages
of the Alpujarras. There are three trains a day
between Granada and Almería, but no
coastal rail service. Frequent buses run from
Spaghetti-western-style landscape near Tabernas both cities to towns on main routes.
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192 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Whitewashed houses on the edge of the gorge at Alhama de Granada, surrounded by olive groves
5 Granada
See pp194–202.
6 Almuñécar
Granada. Road map D3. * 22,000.
@ n Avenida Europa s/n (958 63 11
25). ( Fri. ∑ almunecar.info
P Balneario
Balneario de Lanjarón. Tel 958 77
04 54. Open daily. Closed mid-
Dec–mid-Jan. & 7
The village of Salobreña viewed across fields of sugar cane ∑ hotelbalneariolanjaron.com
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194 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
5 Granada
The guitarist Andres Segovia (1893–1987) described Granada
as a “place of dreams, where the Lord put the seed of music in
my soul”. It was ruled by the Nasrid dynasty (see pp52–3) from
1238 until 1492 when it fell to the Catholic Monarchs. Before
the Moors were expelled, artisans, merchants, scholars and
scientists all contributed to the city’s reputation as a centre
for culture. Under Christian rule the city became a focus for
the Renaissance. After a period of decline in the 19th century,
Granada has become the subject of renewed interest and
efforts are being made to restore parts of it to their past glory.
R Capilla Real
C/Oficios 3. Tel 958 22 92 39.
The Royal Chapel was built for
the Catholic Monarchs between
1505 and 1507 by Enrique de
Egas. A magnificent reja (grille) Reja by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén enclosing the altar of the Capilla Real
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7
GRANADA 195
Monasterio de
la Cartuja
0 metres 250
NICOLAS
TE
IR Ó
PL. SAN
ZENE
NU E VA DE San Nicolás
U
MIGUEL S ANTA I SA B EL
U Z DE Q
N
SA N
E S TA
BAJO N I C OL ÁS
PILAO
SEC
VÍA
SAN J O SÉ
LES D E
R
FR A I STÍ N
CR
U Sacromonte
AR S . AG
ELVI
AD
San Juan
D E L CHAPI Z
DE
L PLAC. DE
M U de los Reyes
QUIJ A D A LOS TOQUEROS
RA
LA S REYES
TE N D IL PLAC. Convento
VICTO RIA
COL
C. DE LA
DE LA de Santa
A
EST S
CRUZ VERDE D E Catalina
CU RAÑA Museo
ÓN
PL. DE S. PLACETA
MA AN
AGUSTÍN PORRAS JU Arqueológico
SA
S TES
PA SE O D E L O S T R I
N
El Bañuelo RO
D AR
N
SA STÍN ÍA SAN o
ER A DE L Darr
JE
U C. CA LD A R ER
RÓ
R CU
CÁ
O
Chancillería ES Altos
Iglesia de Casas
PLAZA Santa Ana
TA
Palacio de Generalife
PL. A. la Madraza
CU
CANO E Palacio
S TA
REY
DE GO
MÉ REZ Carlos V
S PLAZA Jardínes
CO
PL. BIB- LI
CH
Casa de EO
CA
Corral del CE
los Tiros NT
Carbón CA RA
S
LO LLE Alhambra
YE
PA
S JO L
NN
PA
RE
A
VA
Ayuntamiento LA I NA
SE
PLAZA M
NE
DEL CARMEN IL DE
D
L OS L
RA
EL
RO
G
S
JO
EN
RA
E
LIF
E
Albaicín Street
Steep and sinuous, the Albaicín
streets form a virtual labyrinth.
Real Chancillería Many street names start with
Commissioned Cuesta, meaning slope.
by the Catholic
Monarchs, the
Royal Chancery
dates from 1530.
Its patio is attri-
buted to de Siloé.
AN
JU
CUES
S AN
L E
AL
TA S A
C
CAL
N TA
LE
INÉS
ACEITUNEROS
CÁRC
AIRE
EL
RO
DAR
L
DE
PISA
A
ER
RR
A LTA
CA
S
ANA
A
PLAZA NT
S A N TA A N A SA
To Mirador
de San
Nicolás
CARRETERA
S
CALLE GLORIA
YE
RE
OS
CALLE
L
DE
CON
P L A PCIÓN
DEL
CE
ZA
ZAFRA
SANTÍSIMO
CO
NC
ERO
CARN
EPC
BA
IÓN
ÑU
To Sacromonte
ELO
DARRO
CARRERA DEL
RÍO DARRIO
Convento de Santa
Catalina de Zafra was
founded in 1521.
Sacromonte
Granada’s gypsies (Roma) formerly lived in the caves honey-
combing this hillside. Travellers such as Washington Irving
(see p57) would go there to enjoy spontaneous outbursts of
flamenco. Today, virtually all Roma have moved away, but
touristy flamenco shows of variable
quality are still performed
here in the evenings (see
p244). A Benedictine
monastery, the Abadía
del Sacro-monte, sits at
the very top of the hill.
. El Bañuelo
Inside, the ashes of San
Star-shaped openings in the vaults
Cecilio, Granada’s patron
let light into these well-preserved
saint, are stored.
Moorish baths, which were built in Gypsies dancing flamenco, 19th century
the 11th century.
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198 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Granada: Alhambra
A magical use of space, light, water and decoration
characterizes this most sensual piece of architecture.
It was built under Ismail I, Yusuf I and Muhammad V,
caliphs when the Nasrid dynasty (see p52) ruled
Granada. Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they constructed their idea of paradise on Earth.
Modest materials were used (tiles, plaster and timber),
. Salón de Embajadores
but they were superbly worked. Although the The ceiling of this sumptuous throne room,
Alhambra suffered from decay and pillage, including built between 1334 and 1354, represents
an attempt by Napoleon’s troops to blow it up, it has the seven heavens of the Muslim cosmos.
undergone extensive restoration and its delicate
craftsmanship still dazzles the eye.
. Patio de Arrayanes
This pool, set amid myrtle
hedges and graceful
arcades, reflects light into
the surrounding halls.
KEY
1 Patio de Machuca
2 Sala de la Barca
3 Washington Irving’s Entrance
apartments
4 Jardín de Lindaraja
5 Baños Reales
6 The Sala de las Dos Hermanas,
with its honeycomb dome, is
regarded as the ultimate example of
Spanish Islamic architecture. Patio del Mexuar
This council chamber,
7 Puerta de la Rawda completed in 1365, was
8 The Palacio Carlos V (see p54), a where the reigning sultan
fine Renaissance building, was added listened to the petitions of
to the Alhambra in 1526. his subjects and held
meetings with his ministers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7
GRANADA 199
. Sala de los
Abencerrajes
This hall takes its name from
a noble family, who were
rivals of Boabdil (see pp52–3).
According to legend, he had
them massacred while they
attended a banquet here.
The pattern of the stalactited
ceiling was inspired by
Pythagoras’ theorem.
Casas Reales
(shown above)
Palacio Carlos V Ticket
Alcazaba office
. Patio de los Leones Portal and Medina
Built by Muhammad V, this
Other buildings
patio is lined with arcades The Alhambra complex includes the Casas
supported by 124 slender Reales, the 13th-century Alcazaba, the
marble columns. At its Palacio Carlos V (see p195) and the Generalife
centre a fountain rests on (see p202), located just off the map.
12 marble lions.
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202 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Granada: Generalife
Located northeast of the Alhambra, the Generalife was the
country estate of the Nasrid kings. Here, they could escape
the intrigues of the palace and enjoy tranquillity high above
the city, a little closer to heaven. The name Generalife, or
Yannat al Arif, has various interpretations, perhaps the most
pleasing being “the garden of lofty paradise”. The gardens,
begun in the 13th century, have been modified over the years.
They originally contained orchards and pastures for animals.
The Generalife provides a magical setting for Granada’s yearly
International Music and Dance Festival (see p39). Patio de la Acequia
This enclosed oriental garden is
built round a long central pool.
Sala Regia Rows of water jets make graceful
arches above it.
Jardines Altos
(Upper Gardens)
The majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada towering, in places, over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) above sea level
9 Las Alpujarras from the mountains above. The Sierra Nevada was declared
See pp204–5.
Dilapidated mills and old a national park in 1999 and
threshing floors are other signs access to it restricted. The park
of a vanishing way of life. authorities run guided minibus
0 Poqueira Valley excursions to the higher slopes
Barranco de Poqueira, Granada.
from its checkpoints on the two
Road map E3. n Plaza de la Libertad q Sierra Nevada sides of the Sierra Nevada: Hoya
7, Pampaneira (958 76 31 27). Granada. Road map E3. @ from
de la Mora (above the ski station
Granada. n Parque Nacional Sierra on the Granada side) and Hoya
Many visitors to the Alpujarras Nevada Centro de Visitantes “El del Portillo (above Capileira in
get no further than this deep, Dornajo”, Carretera de Sierra Nevada the Alpujarras). The Sierra
steep-sided valley above Km 23, Güéjar Sierra (958 34 06 25). Nevada observatory is located
Orgiva, and it is certainly ∑ sierranevadaskiguide.com on the northern slopes at an
the best place to head for elevation of 2800 m (9,186 ft).
on a short visit. It contains Fourteen peaks, more than
three pretty, well-kept 3,000 m (9,800 ft) high, crown
villages climbing the slope. the heights of the Sierra w La Calahorra
In ascending order, they are: Nevada. The snow lingers until
Granada. Road map E3. @ Guadix.
Pampaneira, Bubion and July and begins falling again in n Town Hall, Plaza Ayuntamiento 1
Capileira. All are perfect late autumn. Europe’s highest (958 67 71 32). Open 10am–1pm,
examples of the singular road (closed to traffic) runs past 4–6pm Wed.
architectural style of the a ski resort at 2,100 m (6,890 ft),
Alpujarras, which has its closest and skirts the two highest Immensely thick walls encircle
relation in the Atlas Mountains peaks, Pico Veleta at 3,398 m this castle, perched on a hillock
of Morocco. The whitewashed (11,145 ft) and Mulhacén at above the village. Rodrigo de
houses of each village huddle 3,482 m (11,420 ft). The altitude Mendoza, son of Cardinal
together seemingly randomly and closeness to the Mediter- Mendoza, ordered La Calahorra
(“a confused agglomeration of ranean of this mountain range to be built for his bride
boxes” as the writer Gerald account for its array of fauna between 1509 and 1512, using
Brenan described them), with and flora. It is a habitat for architects and craftsmen from
flat grey gravel roofs sprouting golden eagles, rare butterflies Italy. Inside is a Renaissance
a variety of eccentrically tall and over 60 species of flowers courtyard with a staircase and
chimneys. The streets between unique to the area. Carrara marble pillars.
the houses are rarely straight,
often stepped and tapering,
and they sometimes disappear
into short tunnels.
The countryside between the
villages makes excellent
walking or horse-riding
country. The slopes are still
divided by dry-stone walls into
terraced fields that are fed by
an ingenious irrigation system
that distributes the melt water The castle of La Calahorra above the village of the same name
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7
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204 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
E Museo de Alfarería
C/San Miguel 59 (958 66 47 67). Open
10:30am–2pm, 4:30–8pm daily. &
E Centro de Interpretación
Cuevas de Guadix
Ermita Nueva s/n. (958 66 55 69).
Whitewashed cave dwellings in the troglodyte quarter of Guadix Open 10am–2pm, 4–6pm Mon–Fri
(5–7pm in summer), 10am–2pm
Sat. &
e Guadix Around 2,000 years ago Guadix
had iron, copper and silver mines.
Granada. Road map E3. * 20,100.
£ @ n Avenida de la Constitución
The town thrived under the r Baza
Moors and after the Reconquest
15–18 (958 66 28 04). Granada. Road map E2. * 20,000.
( Sat. ∑ guadix.es (see pp52–3), but declined in the @ n Calle Alhóndiga 1, under
18th century. museum (958 86 13 25). ( Wed.
The troglodyte quarter, with 2,000 Relics of San Torcuato, who
inhabited caves, is the town’s most established the first Christian Impressive evidence of ancient
remarkable sight. The Museo de bishopric in Spain, are kept in the cultures based around Baza came
Alfarería and Centro de Inter- cathedral museum. The Catedral, to light in 1971, when a large,
pretación Cuevas de Guadix begun in 1594 by Diego de Siloé, seated, female figure was found
show how they live underground. was finished between 1701 and in a necropolis. She is the Dama
3 ,4 7 9 m
2 Poqueira Valley
Trev
1 1 ,4 1 0 f t
Three villages typical of Las
Alpujarras in this river valley
are Capileira, Bubión and
e ir a
Juviles
Pórtugos
Pitres
Guadalfeo
Lanjarón
Granada
1 Orgiva
This is the largest town of the 3 Fuente Agria
S i e r r a d e l a
region, with a Baroque church People come here from far and
in the main street and a lively wide to drink the iron-rich,
Thursday market. naturally carbonated waters.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp219 and pp236–7
GRANADA AND ALMERÍA 205
de Baza (see p47), believed to t Vélez Blanco Renaissance splendour has since
represent an Iberian goddess, and been ripped out and shipped to
estimated to be 2,400 years old. Almería. Road map F2. * 2,200. @ the Metropolitan Museum of
Vélez Rubio. n Marqués de los Vélez
Subsequently, she was removed New York. There is, however, a
s/n (950 41 95 85). ( Wed.
to the Museo Arqueológico in reconstruction of one of the
Madrid but a replica can be seen Dominating this pleasant little original patios.
in the Museo Arqueológico in village is the mighty Castillo de A blend of Gothic, Renaissance
Baza. The Renaissance Colegiata Vélez Blanco. It was built from and Mudéjar styles (see pp28–9)
de Santa María, nearby, has a 1506 to 1513 by the first Marquis can be seen in the Iglesia de
Plateresque entrance and a fine de Los Vélez, and its interior richly Santiago, located in the village’s
18th-century tower. adorned by Italian craftsmen. main street.
During the first few days of Unfortunately for the visitor its Just outside Vélez Blanco is
September a riotous fiesta takes the Cueva de los Letreros,
place (see p40). An emissary, El which contains paintings from
Cascamorras, is despatched from around 4000 BC. One image
the neighbouring town of Guadix depicts a horned man holding
to try to bring back a coveted sickles; another the Indalo, a
image of the Virgin from Baza’s figure believed to be a deity
Convento de la Merced. He is with magical powers, still used
covered in oil and chased back to as a symbol of Almería.
Guadix by youths, also covered in
oil. There, he is taunted again for + Castillo de Vélez Blanco
returning empty-handed. Tel 607 41 50 55. Open 10am–2pm,
5–8pm Wed–Sun (Oct–Mar: 4–6pm).
E Museo Arqueológico T Cueva de los Letreros
Plaza Mayor s/n. Tel 958 86 19 47. Camino de la Cueva de los Letreros.
Open 11am–2pm Tue–Sun (also The village of Vélez Blanco, overlooked by a Tel 650 80 83 90. Open Wed, Sat, Sun
6–8pm Thu–Sat). 16th-century castle & pub hols by appointment. &
6 Yegen La Calahorra
A plaque marks the
house where Gerald
Brenan, the author of
South from Granada,
lived in the 1920s.
7 Válor
da
a
va
A lc o le
Ne
Aben Humeya, leader of a rebellion by
Moriscos (see p54), was born in this
village. A commemorative battle
between Moors and Christians is staged
a
cin
8 Puerto de la Ragua
This pass, which leads across the
mountains to Guadix, is nearly
Yátor Cherín 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high and often
Ugíjar snowbound in winter.
5 Cádiar
A fountain in the Tips for Drivers
U g íj a r centre of this town
runs with wine Tour length: 85 km (56 miles).
during the October Stopping-off points: Orgiva and
fiesta (see p40). Trevélez have bars, restaurants
and hotels. Bubión has hotels
and one good restaurant (see
s a Key
a v i e p236). Capileira has bars and
C o n t r
Tour route restaurants. Orgiva is the last
0 kilometres 10
Other roads petrol stop before Cádiar.
0 miles 05 Mountain peak
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206 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
i Almería
A colossal fortress bears witness to Almería’s golden age, looks more like a fortress than
when it was an important port for the Caliphate of Córdoba. a place of worship, with four
Known as al Mariyat (the Mirror of the Sea), the city was a towers, thick walls and small
windows. A mosque once stood on
centre for trade and textile industries, with silk, cotton and
the site. It was later converted
brocade among its chief exports. After the city fell to the to a Christian temple, but
Catholic Monarchs (see pp52–3) in 1489, it went into decline destroyed by an earthquake in
for the next 300 years. During the 19th and early 20th 1522. Work began on the
centuries, mining and a new port revived the city’s fortunes, present building in 1524 under
but this period ended abruptly with the start of the Civil War the direction of Diego de Siloé.
Juan de Orea designed the
(see pp58–9). Today a North African air still pervades the
Renaissance façade. He also
city, with its flat-roofed houses, desert-like environs and created the beautifully carved
palm trees and regular ferry services still link the city walnut choir stalls. The naves
with Morocco. and high altar are Gothic.
Sights at a Glance
1 Alcazaba NO
ANTO
NIO V
ICO
I
DE S A N
M
Los Millares
2 Templo San Juan
CA
Ó BAL
Mirador de ORO
RO M PLAZA
A
San Cristóbal CR ER
3 Catedral
LUG
IS O
T
MANUEL
PÉREZ
BEL
5 Puerta de Santiago
AR
Centro Rescate de
M
Purchena PLAZADE
TO
la Fauna Sahariana
S
LAS FLORES
E NL A S
SI
DA
PO
TI
JO
ES
VE
C UL
LA R
TELA
L
E R PLAZA
A Vieja DE SAN
MÓ
N C Ayuntamiento PEDRO San Pedro
STIA
RE
LLA PLAZA DE RO JU
AL
EN C U PÉRE
E N TR Z JOAQUÍN AG EZ
M IL
LO P E DE V EGA
O PLAZA
MOL RO
O SANTISTEBAN
CEPE
RE DU CT NS CAREAGA
Barrio O D EFO PA D R PLAZA DEL
E LUQ
D ES C
N IL
INO
la Chanca SA NT R E UE ECUADOR
CH A PLAZA
ÓN
A N SO
T GONZÁLEZ
SA
N AN A PLAZA
I N FA N TA EGEA
N
Bus Station
SA IN GRANERO PLAZA DE
ED
JU
E Z Train Station
Gobierno 900m (980 yards)
Templo
ES
CHAFARINAS
PA S
BENDICHO
A
A LB O R Á
Basílica de Nuestra
EO
C . H O S P I TA L
Señora del Mar
DE A
Teatro
N
MÁLAGA
LIC E O
Cervantes
REA
TRO
LM
PA R
PO S
QUE
GER
CAS
DE
ERÍA
ONA
CAM
NICO
AND LÁS
Z DE
ÉN SAL
DE MER Gobierno
TÍ N EZ
COS ÓN
TA
ARE
Civil
PLAZA
MAR
Á LV
DE EMILIO
LÓ P PÉREZ
E Z F
Med AL CÓ
N
ite
rra Palacio de
ne Justicia
an AN
DÉ
Se N
0 metres 250 a DE
CO Mojácar Cabo
ST de Gata
A
0 yards 250
Spaghetti Westerns
Two Wild West towns lie off the N340 highway
west of Tabernas. Here, visitors can re-enact classic
film scenes or watch stunt men performing bank
hold-ups and saloon brawls. The Poblados del
Oeste were built during the 1960s and early 1970s
when low costs and eternal sunshine made
Almería the ideal location for spaghetti westerns.
Sergio Leone, director of The Good, the Bad and the
Ugly, built a ranch here and film-sets sprang up in
the desert. Local gypsies played Indians and
Mexicans. The deserts and Arizona-style badlands
are still used occasionally for television
commercials and series, and by film directors
Still from For a Few Dollars More by Sergio Leone such as Steven Spielberg.
O Aquarium
Avda Reino de España.
Tel 950 16 00 36. Open 10am–6pm
Wed–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. &
∑ aquariumroquetas.com
i Almería
See pp206–7. Lighthouse overlooking the cliffs of the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7
GRANADA AND ALMERÍA 209
d Mojácar
Almería. Road map F3. * 7,000. @
n Calle Glorieta 1 (950 61 50 25).
( Wed & Sun.
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TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
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212 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Some of the most charming places to stay in rural areas. Apartments and village houses
Spain are in Andalusia. They range from throughout the region are let by the week for
restored castles to family guesthouses, and self-catering holidays. Andalusia’s climate is
from one of the most luxurious hotels in also ideal for camping (except Nov–Mar),
Europe to an organic farm deep in the which can be a cheaper alternative.
countryside. For budget travellers there are The hotel listings on pages 216–19 are
pensions and youth hostels, and for hikers organized into different themes, with DK
there are mountain refuges. A night or two Choices highlighted. See Recommended
in a B&B is an increasingly popular option in Hotels on page 215 for more information.
Hotel-Residencias (HR),
however, do not have dining
rooms, although they may
serve breakfast.
Paradors
Paradors are government-run
hotels that fall into the three-
to five-star classifications. The
best ones occupy historic
monuments, such as castles,
monasteries, palaces and old
hunting lodges, but a number
of them have been purpose-
built in attractive settings.
Though a parador will not
always be the best hotel in
town, they can be counted on
to deliver a predictable level
of comfort: regional dishes will
always be on the menu and
rooms are generally comfort- Traditional courtyards are typical of many Andalusian hotels
able and spacious. The bedroom
furniture varies little from price range, so be sure to week in advance, or you may
parador to parador. enquire about availability and lose all or some of your deposit.
If you are travelling around prices in advance. A reserved room will be held
the paradors during high Note that most hotels in only until 6pm unless you can
season, or intending to stay in Andalusia will quote prices inform the hotel that you are
smaller paradors, it is advisable per room and meal prices going to arrive late.
to book ahead per person without When you book in you will
through parador IVA (VAT). be asked for your passport or
agents (see p214). identity card, to comply with
police regulations. It will be
Booking and returned to you when your
Prices Checking In details have been copied.
Hotels are obliged by You do not need to You are expected to check
law to display their book ahead if you are out of your room by noon or
range of prices at the travelling off-season in to pay for another night. Most
reception desk and in rural Andalusia, unless hotels are happy to keep your
every room. As a rule, you want to stay in a luggage for you until later
the more stars a hotel Five-star hotel particular hotel. On the that day.
has, the more you pay. restaurant sign other hand, it is essential
Rates for a double to reserve rooms by
room start at €45 per night in a phone, through a travel agent or
cheap one-star pension and can on the Internet if you travel in
average as high as €275 in a high season. You will also need
five-star hotel. to book if you want a specific
Prices vary according to the room, with a good view, with a
room, the region and season. double bed (twin beds are the
Rural hotels are generally norm), or away from a noisy
cheaper than city ones. All the road. Hotels in many coastal
prices quoted on pages 216–19 resorts close in the winter, so
are based on the rates for high check that anywhere you want
season. High season is usually to stay is open.
July and August, but it can also Some hotels will request a
run from April to October. City deposit of 20–25 per cent for
hotels charge inflated rates booking during peak times, or
during major fiestas, such as for a long stay. This can be
Semana Santa (see p42) in arranged by credit card and
Seville. Easter is a popular travel phone, even in smaller hotels.
period for the Spanish Others will hold your booking
themselves, and it is usually until an agreed arrival time. Try The impressive entrance of a hotel housed in a
included in the high-season to make cancellations at least a former Sevillian mansion
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214 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
and you are advised to now also being let all over the
refuse to sign. region. In the UK, a number of
No hotel in Andalusia private companies, among
takes cheques, even when them The Individual Traveller’s
backed by a guarantee Spain, act as agents for owners
card or drawn on a of apartments and houses.
Spanish bank, and few Many agents belong to an
accept traveller’s cheques. organization called the RAAR
In Spain it is customary (Red Andaluza de Alojamientos
to tip the porter and the Rurales or Andalusian Rural
chambermaid in a hotel Accommodation Network),
by €1–2. The usual tip to through which it is possible to
leave in hotel restaurants make direct bookings.
is 5–10 per cent of the bill, Prices charged for self-
although some restaurants catering accommodation
will have included a sometimes vary considerably:
service charge already. prices are determined by
location, the season and type
of property. A four-person
Self-Catering villa with a pool costs as little
Villas and holiday flats let as €240 for a week if it is inland
by the week are plentiful and over €950 per week if it is
along the Costa del Sol in a prime coastal location.
and the coasts of Granada Another possibility is a villa
and Almería. Most cities turística (holiday village), which
Mosaic tiling in the courtyard of a hostel will also have holiday let is half hotel, half holiday
accommodation in apartments. Guests can hire
central, well-furnished rooms with kitchens and use
Paying apartments that may be the restaurant.
These days most hotels, except cheaper than a comparable
the most basic of bed and hotel and give you the option
breakfasts, accept payment of preparing your own meals. Bed and Breakfast
by credit card. In some large The local tourism office can Andalusia’s 500 or more casas
hotels you may be asked to supply information about rurales offering bed and
sign a blank credit card slip on letting agencies. breakfast range from stately
arrival. Under Spanish law it is Inland, an increasing number cortijos (manor houses) to small
fraudulent to ask you to do this, of village and farm houses are organic farms. Do not expect
DIRECTORY
Hotels Paradors Youth Hostels Tel 954 22 77 66.
∑ irdecampings.com
Asociación de Central de Reservas Central de Reservas
Hoteles de Sevilla Calle José Abascal 2–4, de Inturjoven Federación Andaluza
Calle San Pablo 1, 28003 Madrid. Calle Miño 24, 41011 de Campings
Casa A Bajo, Tel 902 54 79 79. Seville. Map 3 A4. Tel 958 22 35 17.
41001 Seville. ∑ parador.es Tel 902 51 00 00. ∑ campings
Tel 954 22 15 38. Keytel ∑ inturjoven.com andalucia.es
∑ hotelesdesevilla.com The Foundry, Camping and
156 Blackfriars Road, Mountain Refuges Caravanning Club
Asociación de London SE1 8EN UK.
Hoteles Rurales de Federación Andaluza Tel 0845 130 7631.
Tel (020) 7953 3020. ∑ campingand
Andalucía (AHRA) de Montañismo
∑ keytel.co.uk caravanningclub.co.uk
C/Cueva de Viera 2. Calle Santa Paula 23,
Centro del Negocio CADI, 2˚ Planta, 18001 Granada.
Self-Catering & Tel 958 29 13 40. Open: Disabled Travellers
Edificio Málaga Bed & Breakfast
3ª planta local 8, 8:30am–2:30pm Mon–Fri
(also Oct–May: 4–6pm Can Be Done
29200 Antequera, The Individual
Wed). ∑ fedamon.com Congress House, 14 Lyon
Málaga. Traveller’s Spain
Road, Harrow HA1 2EN,
Tel 952 70 51 28. Tel (0800) 096 3439.
∑ ahra.es ∑ villas4you.co.uk Camping UK. Tel (020) 8907 2400.
∑ canbedone.co.uk
Fuerte Hotels RAAR Club de Camping y
∑ fuertehoteles.com Sagunto 8-10-3, Caravanning de Viajes Ilunion
04004 Almería. Andalucía C/ Pechuán 1, 28002
Tugasa Hotels Tel 950 28 00 93. Calle Francisco Carrión Madrid. Tel 913 23 25 23.
∑ tugasa.com ∑ raar.es Mejias 13, 41003 Seville. ∑ viajes.ilunion.com
W H E R E TO S TAY 215
usual hotel service or a long list some outside the major cities
of facilities. However, you may and in popular countryside Recommended Hotels
be met with a friendly welcome areas. Most have electricity and The hotels listed on pages 216–9
and be spoiled with good running water; some also have cover the best boutique, luxury,
home cooking. launderettes, restaurants, shops, bed and breakfast, inns and
A stay at a bed and breakfast play areas for children and pools. historic accommodation types
can be booked through RAAR, It is wise to take a camping in Seville and Andalusia. They
the owners’ association, or dir- carnet (card). It can be used to are listed by price within
ectly. If you are booking from check in at sites, and it also each area. Boutique hotels
abroad you may be asked to gives you third-party insurance. are modern, with high design
send a 10 per cent deposit and Carnets are issued by the AA, elements, while luxury hotels
to stay for at least two nights. the RAC, and by camping and encompass the finest of Seville
caravanning clubs. A map of all and Andalusia’s upscale hotels.
the region’s camp sites, Bed and breakfasts offer a
Youth Hostels and with links to their personable experience, with
Mountain Refuges websites, is available cosy rooms and a hearty
To use Andalusia’s from the F.A.C. breakfast, while inns are quaint
extensive network of (Federación Andaluza places oozing charm. The
albergues juveniles de Campings). area is also full of historic
(youth hostels) you accommodation as many
have to buy an Logo for a monasteries and mansions
international YHA card five-star hotel Disabled Travellers have been converted into hotels.
from a hostel or show Hotel managers will Throughout the listings,
a card from your country. Bed advise on wheelchair access certain hotels have been
and breakfast costs between and staff will always assist, but marked as DK Choice. These
€12 and €18 per person. You few hotels are equipped for the offer a particularly special
can book a bed or room in a disabled. However, some of experience – either for their
hostel directly or through the the youth hostels are. RADAR beautiful surroundings,
central booking office of (see p256), the Royal Association excellent service, outstanding
Inturjoven – Central de for Disability and Rehabilitation, rooms, top-notch amenities,
Reservas de Inturjoven. publishes a useful booklet or a combination of these.
If you backpack in remote
mountain areas, you can stay in
refugios, which are shelters with
basic kitchens and dormitories.
The refugios are marked on all
good large-scale maps of the
mountains and national parks.
They are administered by the
Federación Andaluza de
Montañismo.
Camp Sites
There are more than 110 camp
sites across the region of
Andalusia, many of them along
the coasts but there are also A pretty room in a bed-and-breakfast hotel
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216 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
La Casa del Maestro €€
Historic Map 6 E2 Price Guide
Seville C/Niño Ricardo 5, 41003 Prices are based on one night's stay in
Tel 954 50 00 07 high season for a standard double room,
El Arenal ∑ lacasadelmaestro.com inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Montecarlo € A delightful yellow-ochre guest- € under €120
Boutique Map 5 B3 house centred on a traditional €€ €120 to 200
€€€ over €200
C/Gravina 51, 41001 plant-filled patio. Spacious and
Tel 954 21 75 01 vibrantly decorated rooms.
∑ hotelmontecarlodesevilla.com Maestranza
Restored 18th-century mansion Alfonso XIII €€€ Hispano Luz Confort €
with wrought-iron gates and twin Historic Map 6 D5 B&B Map 6 D5
inner patios. Comfortable rooms. C/San Fernando 2, 41004 C/Miguel Mañara 4, 41004
Tel 954 91 70 00 Tel 955 63 80 79
Taberna del Alabardero €€ ∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com Close to the Real Alcázar is this
Historic Map 5 B3 A regal hotel with opulent modern hotel with well-
C/Zaragoza 20, 41001 furnishings, crystal chandeliers equipped rooms, some with
Tel 954 590 27 21 and marble columns. balconies. Bike rental available.
∑ tabernadelalabardero.es
The rooms here boast antiques EME Catedral Hotel €€€ Triana
and stylish fabrics. Cosy central Luxury Map 6 D4 Ribera de Triana Hotel €€
patio with stained-glass roof. C/Alemanes 27, 41004 Luxury Map 3 A1
Tel 954 56 00 00 Plaza Chapina, 41010
Gran Melia Colon €€€ ∑ emecatedralhotel.com Tel 954 26 80 00
Luxury Map 5 B3 Two restaurants, a panoramic ∑ hotelriberadetriana.com
C/Canalejas 1, 41001 terrace, pool and spa are the key Upmarket hotel with modern
Tel 954 50 55 99 attractions at this superb hotel. decor, rooftop pool and terrace
∑ solmelia.com offering stunning city views, and
Elegant rooms and attentive Las Casas del Rey de Baeza €€€ first-rate technological amenities.
service at this centrally located Boutique Map 6 E2
hotel. Popular with celebrities. Plaza Jesús de la Redención 2, 41003
Tel 954 56 14 96 La Cartuja
∑ hospes.com Barcelo Renacimiento €€
Santa Cruz Stylish hotel with chic bedrooms. Luxury Map 1 C2
Hostería del Laurel € Lovely open-air patio and spa. Avenida Alvaro Alonso Barba,
Historic Map 6 D4 Isla de la Cartuja, 41092
Plaza de los Venerables 5, 41004 Tel 954 46 22 22
Tel 954 22 02 95 La Macarena ∑ barcelo.com
∑ hosteriadellaurel.com Patio de la Alameda € Geared towards business-users,
An atmospheric hotel set in a B&B Map 2 D3 this hotel has modern decor and
historic building in the old quarter. Alameda de Hercules, 56, 41002 a spacious convention centre
The place is said to have inspired Tel 954 90 49 99 with all amenities.
romantic writer Zorrilla to create ∑ patiodelaalemeda.com
the character of Don Juan. Rooms at this delightful B&B are
stylishly furnished with details La Campana
such as mosaic tiled bathrooms. Cervantes €
DK Choice Boutique Map 6 D1
Casa Numero Siete €€ Alcoba del Rey de Sevilla €€ C/Cervantes 10, 41003
Boutique Map 6 E3 Boutique Map 2 D4 Tel 954 90 02 80
C/Virgenes 7, 41004 C/Becquer 9, 41002 ∑ hotel-cervantes.com
Tel 954 22 15 81 Tel 954 91 58 00 A charming hotel with stained-
∑ casanumero7.com ∑ alcobadelrey.com glass ceilings and a white,
Discover luxury in a 19th- Intricate glassware, colourful tiles beautifully tiled patio. Comfort-
century mansion right in and silk cushions define the able bedrooms with mellow
the heart of Seville's evocative decor of this charming hotel. decor. Close to main sights.
old quarter. The furnishings
at this small but immaculate Hotel Boutique Casa
boutique guesthouse include Romana €€
antiques and family heirlooms. Boutique Map 1 C5
C/Trajano 5, 41002
Tel 954 91 51 70
Hotel Inglaterra €€ ∑ hotelcasaromana.
Historic Map 5 C3 com
Plaza Nueva 7, 41001 Roman and
Tel 954 22 49 70 Andalusian themes
∑ hotelinglaterra.es merge in this imagi-
Chic hotel located opposite the native hotel. The
Ayuntamiento (town hall), with elegant rooms border
superb antique furnishings and a bright central patio.
Andalusian tiles. Enjoy a cocktail The rooftop terrace
at the rooftop terrace bar. has a large Jacuzzi. Comfortable furnishings at Casa Numero Siete, Seville
W H E R E TO S TAY 217
Children
Children are generally very
welcome, but there are seldom
special facilities for them.
Ventas, or country restaurants,
are the exception; they often
have play areas.
Smoking Stylish dining room of the exclusive Oriza, Seville (see p229)
Smoking is not permitted
inside public areas, including Wine Choices bream, to be priced by weight.
in restaurants, cafés and bars. Dry fino wines are perfect with The bill (la cuenta) includes
Smoking on outside terraces shellfish, serrano ham, olives, service charges and sometimes
is still allowed. soups and first courses. Wines to a small cover charge. Prices on
accompany meals are usually the menus do not include ten
from Ribera del Duero, Rioja, per cent IVA (VAT), which, as a
Wheelchair Access Navarra or Penedés. A tapas bar rule, is added when the bill is
Since restaurants are rarely might serve Valdepeñas or La totalled. Tipping is just that,
designed for wheelchairs, you Mancha wines. Oloroso wines a discretionary gratuity. The
(or hotel staff ) should call to are often drunk as a digestif. (See Spanish rarely tip more than
book and to discuss access to also What to Drink pp226–7 and five per cent, often just
restaurant and toilets. Spanish The Land of Sherry pp34–5.) rounding up the bill.
law requires all new-build public Credit cards are accepted in
buildings to have wheelchair restaurants everywhere, but do
access, so newer restaurants What it Costs not expect to pay by credit card
will offer easier disabled access The cheapest places to eat are in a tapas bar or café.
and facilities such as adapted usually tapas bars and smaller,
toilets and wheelchair space in family-run establishments
dining areas. (bar-restaurantes). A menú Recommended
del día is offered Restaurants
in the majority of The restaurants featured in this
restaurants. It is guide have been selected for
usually three courses their good value, food, location
and priced well and atmosphere. A wide range
below choices from of establishments have been
la carta. included – from no-frills dining
Ordering from la spots, tapas bars and restaurants
carta in a restaurant specializing in seafood to stylish
can push your final diners featuring tasting menus
bill way above prepared by leading Spanish
average, especially if chefs. Seville offers plenty of
you choose pricey tempting options for both
items like ibérico carnivores and vegetarians.
ham and fresh Note that establishments
seafood. If you find labelled DK Choice are places
“bargain prices” for that have been highlighted in
swordfish, hake, sole recognition of an exceptional
and other fish, then it feature – exquisite food, an
is probably frozen. inviting ambience or simply for
Expect shellfish such great value. Most of these
as lobster and large places are popular with locals
Relaxed ambience at the Manolo Bar in the Parque María prawns, and fish and visitors, so be sure to book
Luisa (see pp102–3), Seville such as sea bass and well in advance.
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222 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Huevos a la Flamenca Eggs Pescaíto Frito A seaside Tocino de Cielo This is a creamy
are baked in a terracotta dish favourite, this is a platter of small custard dessert with a caramel
with tomato sauce, ham and fish tossed in batter and quickly topping. Its name means
chorizo sausage. fried in olive oil. “heavenly lard”.
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224 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Choosing Tapas
Tapas, sometimes called pinchos, are small snacks that
originated in Andalusia in the 19th century to accom-
pany sherry. Stemming from a bartender’s practice of
covering a glass with a saucer or tapa (cover) to keep out flies,
the custom progressed to a chunk of cheese or bread being used,
and then to a few olives being placed on a platter to accompany a drink. Mixed
Once free of charge, tapas are usually paid for nowadays, and a selection green olives
makes a delicious light meal. Choose from a range of appetizing varieties, from
cold meats to elaborately prepared hot dishes of meat, seafood or vegetables.
Almendras
fritas are fried,
salted almonds.
Banderillas are
canapés skewered
on toothpicks. The
entire canapé
should be
eaten at once.
Tapas Bars
Even a small village will have at least one bar where the
locals go to enjoy drinks, tapas and conversation with
friends. On Sundays and holidays, favourite places are
packed with whole families enjoying the fare. In larger
towns it is customary to move from bar to bar, sampling
the specialities of each. A tapa is a single serving, whereas
a ración is two or three. Tapas are usually eaten standing
or perching on a stool at the bar rather that sitting at a
table, for which a surcharge is generally made.
Choice of tapas at a busy bar
Salpicón de
Chorizo, a popular
mariscos is a
sausage flavoured
luxurious cold
with paprika and
salad of assorted
garlic, may be eaten
fresh seafood in a
cold or fried and
zesty vinaigrette.
served hot.
Gambas a la plancha is a
simple but flavourful dish of
grilled prawns (shrimp).
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226 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
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228 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Doña Elvira €€
Regional Map 6 D5
Plaza de Doña Elvira 6, 41004
Tel 954 29 36 98
With links to the Don Juan legend,
this traditional Sevillian restaurant
offers dining indoors or al fresco
under shady trees. Serves excellent
gazpachos, paellas and frituras de
Spacious dining area at Casa Robles, Seville pescado (mixed fried fish).
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 229
Espacio Eslava €€
Innovative twists to regional Seafood/Regional Map 1 C4
favourites will delight, such as C/ Eslava 3, 41002
trigo cremoso con boletus y aceite Tel 954 90 65 68 Closed Sun eve,
de trufa (creamy bulghur risotto Mon
with boletus mushrooms and A no-frills, popular restaurant
truffle oil), but make sure you featuring creative Andalusian
leave room for the fabulous cuisine. Great seafood and salads,
home-made desserts. and an inventive choice of tapas.
Santa Cruz €€
Traditional Map 6 E4
Plaza de los Venerables 5, 41004
Tel 954 22 35 83
A spacious mansion with
colonnaded interiors and an
open terrace. Specialities include
the rabo de toro (braised bull’s
tail) and a wide range of seafood.
DK Choice
Vineria San Telmo €€
Fusion Map 6 E4
Paseo Catalina de Ribera 4, 41004
Tel 954 41 06 00
A charming establishment with
tables on a pleasant square.
Elegant place settings at Taberna del Alabardero, Seville
For more information on types of restaurants see p221
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230 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
HUELVA: Terranova €€
Traditional Map A3
C/ San Sebastian 19, 21004
Tel 959 26 15 07
Impeccably prepared seafood,
fish, meat and vegetables with
innovative twists. Try the award-
winning tapa bacalao al ajo
confitado (salted cod with garlic
confit), but leave room for the
tantalizing home-made desserts.
LA RINCONADA: El Pela €
Traditional Map B2
Plaza de Rodriguez Montes 2, 41300
Tel 954 79 77 03 Closed Wed
Simple, no-frills Sevillian
restaurant where breakfast is
served with delicious pan prieto de
la Algaba (local speciality bread).
Warm and friendly service.
Landscape paintings decorating the walls of the dining room at Casa Juanito, Baeza
MATALASCAÑAS: Los Pepes €€
Seafood Map A3 con habas (young goat with CÓRDOBA: Taberna Sociedad
Sector N Parcela 43, Paseo Marítimo broad beans). Fabulous home- de Plateros €
de Matalascañas made desserts. Traditional Map C2
Tel 959 44 10 64 C/ María Auxiliadora 25, 14002
Large sunny chiringuito (stall) with Tel 957 47 03 04
a beachside terrace. Try the lubina DK Choice Iconic 1930s establishment
a la sal (sea bass baked in salt) and BAEZA: El Sarmiento €€ frequented by celebrities. Try
langosta (fresh lobster), or one of Regional Map E2 the revuelto (scrambled eggs).
the first-rate guisos (stews). Plaza del Arcediano 10, 23440
Tel 953 74 03 23 CÓRDOBA: La Almudaina €€
OSUNA: El Mesón del Duque € Tucked away between the Traditional Map C2
Regional Map C3 cathedral and old city wall, this Campo Santo de los Mártires 1, 14004
Plaza de la Duquesa 1, 41640 charming restaurant offers both Tel 957 47 43 42 Closed Sun eve
Tel 954 81 28 45 Closed Wed, second indoor and outdoor dining Excellent restaurant in a former
week in May with abundant plates of fresh bishop’s palace. Traditional dishes
A fine traditional eating spot with vegetables and a good variety include salmorejo (chilled tomato
a terrace, offering Andalusian of meats. Try the pincho de and bread soup) and solomillo al
specialities. Tapas include home- lechazo a la brasa (grilled foie (pork sirloin with paté).
made albóndigas (meatballs). skewers of suckling lamb).
CÓRDOBA: Caballo Rojo €€
OSUNA: Doña Guadalupe €€ Fine Dining Map C2
Regional Map C3 BAILÉN: Zodiaco Libra €€ C/ Cardenal Herrero 28, 14003
Plaza de Guadalupe 6-8, 41640 Traditional Map D2 Tel 957 47 53 75
Tel 954 81 05 58 Closed Sun eve, Carretera Nailén-Motril km 294, Charming eating place with a
Mon, 1–15 Aug 23710 dining courtyard right next to
Family-run restaurant with Tel 953 67 10 58 the Mezquita. Discover Basque-,
outdoor terrace dining. Sample A popular restaurant that serves Moorish- and Sephardic-
classic regional fare such as cold summer soups on a lovely influenced dishes such as cordero
perdíz con arroz (partridge garden terrace. Great shrimp and con miel (lamb with honey) and
cooked with rice). asparagus revuelto (scrambled the delicious monkfish mozarábe.
egg) dishes.
PALOS DE LA FRONTERA: CÓRDOBA:
El Bodegón € CAZORLA: Meson Leandro €€ Casa Pepe de la Judería €€
Traditional Map A3 Traditional Map E2 Regional Map C2
C/ Rábida 46, 21810 C/ Hoz 3, 23470 C/ Romero 1, 14003
Tel 959 53 11 05 Closed Tue; Tel 953 72 06 32 Closed Wed & Tel 957 20 07 44 Closed last 2
15–30 Sep 15–30 Jun weekends of May
A homely, eco-conscious Michelin-recommended An enduring favourite since
restaurant with both indoor and restaurant in a lovely Jaén village 1928. Dine in the flower-filled
patio dining options. Bite into the bordering a national park, and patio and savour the traditional
juicy solomillo a la brasa (oak renowned for its carne a la piedra Córdoban pork dish flamenquin.
grilled sirloin steak). (stone-baked meat) dishes.
CÓRDOBA: El Blason €€
CÓRDOBA: La Boqueria € Traditional Map C2
Córdoba and Jaén Market-to-Table Map C2 C/ José Zorrilla 11, 14008
BAEZA: Casa Juanito €€ C/ María la Judia s/n, 14011 Tel 957 48 06 25 Closed Sun
Regional Map E2 Tel 957 40 25 62 Centrally located restaurant
Av del Alcalde Puché Pardo 57, 23440 Gourmet café-restaurant serving with an elegant tiled patio.
Tel 953 74 00 40 market-fresh dishes such as rice Amazing guisos (stews),
A cozy family-run eating place in with lobster, Galician ox and inventive seafood dishes
a beautiful historical town. Olive Jabugo ham. Great wine list and and delectable home-
oil-based dishes include cabrito extensive menu of gin and tonics. made desserts.
For more information on types of restaurants see p221
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232 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
TORREMOLINOS:
Nuevo Lanjarón €
Traditional Map D3
C/Europa 10, 29620
Tel 952 38 87 74 Closed Mon
This long-established family-run
place is probably the best value
restaurant on the Costa del Sol.
Choose from a variety of
inexpensive set menus that
include fish and meat dishes.
Try the exquisite estofado de
ternera (veal stew) or the
generous fritura malagueña
(fried fish platter), followed by
home-made flan. Good service.
The well-stocked wine cellar at El Faro de El Puerto, Puerto de Santa María
For more information on types of restaurants see p221
www.ebook3000.com
236 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
TORREMOLINOS: ALMERÍA:
Yate El Cordobés € Granada and Torreluz Mediterraneo €€
Seafood Map D3 Almería Fusion Map F3
Paseo Maritimo s/n (Bajondillo) 29620 Plaza Flores 1, 04001
Tel 952 38 49 56 ALMERÍA: Rincón de Tel 950 23 43 99 Closed Sun,
Sample local seafood dishes Juan Pedro € Mon eve
ranging from espetos de sardinas Traditional Map F3 Elegant restaurant with creative
(charcoal-cooked fresh sardines) C/Federico Castro 2, 04003 dishes such as squid with
to mero en adobo (grouper with Tel 950 23 58 19 Closed Mon coriander pesto. Leave room for
garlic mayonnaise sauce). A very popular tapas bar, offering the chocolate soufflé with mint
generous portions of pungent sauce and orange compote.
TORREMOLINOS: Casa Juan hams, chorizos and cheeses, as
los Mellizos €€ well as local specialities such as ALMERÍA: Valentin €€
Seafood Map D3 trigo a la cortijera (wheat berry Seafood Map F3
C/San Ginés 20, 29620 and sausage stew). C/Tenor Iribarne 19, 04001
Tel 952 37 35 12 Tel 950 26 44 75 Closed Mon, Sep
Excellent value fish dishes at ALMERÍA: Bodega Bellavista €€ A very popular marisqueria
this family-run establishment. The Regional Map F3 (restaurant specializing in
bouillabaisse and fried sea-food Urbanización Bellavista, Llanos de shellfish) where everything is
platter are popular draws. Alquian, 04130 market fresh.
Tel 950 29 71 56 Closed Sun eve &
TORREMOLINOS: Frutos €€ Mon BUBÍON: Teide €
Traditional Map D3 This charming old-fashioned Traditional Map E3
Avda de la Riviera 80, 29620 restaurant is located close to the C/Carretera s/n,18412
Tel 952 38 15 40 Closed Sun eve airport. It offers classic regional Tel 958 76 30 37 Closed Second
One of the grand old Costa del seafood – shellfish dominates fortnight in Jun
Sol restaurants. Enjoy classic the menu – and meat dishes, Charming stone-built restaurant
dishes such as judiones a la using fresh market produce. with a tree-shaded garden. Serves
Granja (Castilian style white Great wine list. home-cooked food such as migas
beans) and a wide selection of (fried breadcrumbs with garlic)
fresh fish. ALMERÍA: Casa Sevilla €€ and choto asado (roast kid).
Seafood Map F3
VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: C/Rueda López s/n, 04004 CARBONERAS: El Cabo €€
Venta Pinto €€ Tel 950 27 29 12 Closed Sun Seafood Map F3
Seafood Map B4 Sociable family restaurant serving Paseo Marítimo 67, 04140
C/La Barca de Vejer s/n, 11150 fresh seafood. Go for the tempura Tel 950 13 06 24 Closed Mon
Tel 956 45 08 77 de bacalao sobre arroz meloso de Friendly beachside restaurant
Traditional restaurant with hongos (cod tempura on a bed of close to Cabo de Gata National
specialities including perdiz roja creamy mushroom rice). Monthly Park. Try innovative seafood
asada (roasted red partridge) and wine tastings. dishes such as squid stuffed with
rodaballo al homo con alcaparras spinach and pine nuts.
(baked turbot with capers). ALMERÍA: Club de Mar €€
Seafood Map F3 GRANADA: Antigua Bodega
ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES: Casa Playa de Almadrabillas, 1, 04007 Castañeda €
Juanito € Tel 950 23 50 48 Closed Tue Traditional Map E3
Seafood Map B4 Chic restaurant with a lovely C/Elvira 5, 18010
C/Alcalde Ruiz Cana 7, 11393 seafront terrace in Almeria’s Tel 958 21 54 64
Tel 956 43 92 11 Closed Wed prestigious yacht club. Authentic tapas bar with barrels,
Charming restaurant with terrace Renowned for its zarzuela de beams and colourful tiles. Feast
dining. Sample exquisite seafood pescado y marisco (bouillabaise) on Trevélez mountain ham, squid
dishes, such as the excellent local and fritura de pescado (fried fish and sardines, and enjoy a chilled
tuna. Good tapas bar. platter). Excellent service. fino on the side.
GRANADA: Restaurante
Carmela €
Modern Map E3
Calle Colcha, 13 (Corner of
Pavaneras), 18009
Tel 958 22 57 94
Cheery restaurant serving playful
versions of classic Andalusian
cuisine. Start with croquetas de
morcilla con cebolla caramelizada
(black pudding croquettes with
caramelized onions).
GRANADA: Chikito €€
Regional Map E3
Plaza del Campillo 9, 18009
Tel 958 22 33 64 Closed Wed
Attractive tapas bar-restaurant Charming outdoor seating at the popular Ruta del Veleta, Granada
built on the site of a former
Garcia Lorca haunt. Be brave and GRANADA: Tragalios €€ LOJA: La Finca €€
dig into the tortilla Sacromonte – Modern Map E3 Traditional Map D3
omelette with marrow, brains, Calle San Matias 21, 18009 Hotel La Bobadilla, Ctra Salinas-
herbs and bull’s testicles! Tel 685 19 37 41 Closed 15 Jan–5 Feb Villanueva de Tapia (A-333), km 65.5,
Colourful restaurant with 18300
GRANADA: innovative interpretations of Tel 958 32 18 61 Closed Sun & Mon
Mirador de Mirayma €€ regional fare, including Iberian May–Jul
Traditional Map E3 pork, aged beef, fresh fish and Delicious seafood, meat and
C/Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010 plenty of local produce. vegetable dishes – all made using
Tel 958 22 82 90 Closed Sun eve local ingredients – are served here.
This delightful patio restaurant GRANADA:
inside the Albaicín offers great Carmen del San Miguel €€€ MOTRIL: Tropical €
city views. Try the fresh remojón Traditional Map E3 Regional Map E3
(salad with salted cod, olives and Plaza Torres Bermejas 3, 18009 Avda Rodriguez Acosta 23, 18600.
orange) and salmorejo (soup). Tel 958 22 67 23 Closed Sun eve, Tel 958 60 04 50 Closed Sun, Jun
all day Sun in summer Friendly seaside inn serving
Attractive terrace restaurant classic Andalusian fare. Try the
DK Choice overlooking the Alhambra, lobster and rice stew.
GRANADA: Restaurante serving up traditional dishes made
Damasqueros €€ from fresh market produce. ORGIVA: El Limonero €
Modern Map E3 Traditional Map E3
C/Damasqueros 3 (El Realejo), HUÉRCAL DE ALMERÍA: C/Yanez 27, 18400
18009 Cueva Blanca €€€ Tel 958 78 51 57
Tel 958 21 05 50 Closed Sun eve, Fusion Map F3 Popular joint serving healthy
Mon C/Churre 13, 04240 traditional dishes such as knuckle
An award-winning tapas bar Tel 950 30 51 37 Closed Sun & Mon of lamb and oven baked sea
that serves modern interpre- Cosy cave-restaurant with bream. Fine salads and pastas.
tations of traditional fare. The imaginative dishes such as
rack of lamb with migas (fried salmon en sidra (salmon in cider) ROQUETAS DE MAR:
breadcrumbs), grapes and and setas en salsa de bacon Alejandro €€
melon is a tasty favourite, and (mushrooms in bacon sauce). Seafood/Fusion Map F3
you can’t go wrong with one of Avda Antonio Machado 32, 04740
their risottos or guisos (stews). Tel 950 32 24 08 Closed Sun, Mon
Ultra-smart restaurant
specializing in exquisite seafood
GRANADA: Ruta del Azafrán €€ fusion dishes. Splash out on the
Fusion Map E3 shellfish tasting menu.
Paseo del Padre Manjón 1, 18010
Tel 958 22 68 82 Closed 24 Dec SALOBREÑA: By Larius
A neat, modern restaurant beside Argentina Steakhouse €€
the Darro River serving an eclectic Grill Map E3
range of dishes, including seafood, Paseo de Velilla 9, 18690
vegetarian, Italian and Arabic food. Tel 958 63 93 58 Closed Sun &
Mon lunch
GRANADA: Ruta del Veleta €€ Elegant restaurant right by the
Fusion Map E3 beach offering exquisitely
Crta Sierra Nevada 136, km 5,4. prepared traditional favourites.
Cenes de la Vega, 18190
Tel 958 48 61 34 Closed Sun eve VERA: Terrazza Carmona €€
Popular regional restaurant on Regional Map F3
the old road to Sierra Nevada. C/del Mar 1, 04620
Feast on hearty dishes such Tel 950 39 07 60 Closed Mon
as roast kid, seasonal game and Place settings at upmarket restaurant Award-winning restaurant
good seafood. La Finca, Loja specializing in regional dishes.
For more information on types of restaurants see p221
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238 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
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240 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Andalusia
In Andalusia people frequently
make special trips to towns
famed for one particular item,
such as olive oil, wine, rugs or
furniture. If you have time to
explore, the whole region offers
countless local, handmade
specialities.
Marquetry in the making in a The finest virgin olive oils
Granada workshop come from Baena (see p151) and
Segura de la Sierra (see p160).
Granada Some of the best olive oil in
The characteristically cold winters Sevilla province is sold in the
ensure that shops in Granada village of Ginés. Many Fruit and vegetable market in
keep a good range of winter monasteries make and sell their Vélez Blanco (see p205)
clothes and shoes. Julio Callejón own sweets and biscuits, which
has an original collection of shoes, can be an unusual gift. locally grown medicinal herbs.
Zara stocks both menswear and There are several bodegas Just north of Granada, in the
womenswear, and Cortefiel is a which are worth a visit, namely small village of Jún, Cerámica
quality department store those in Jerez (see p166), in Miguel Ruiz collects and sells
specialising in clothing. Sanlúcar de Barrameda (see some of the finest ceramics
With the Sierra p166), in Montilla (see made all over Andalusia.
Nevada close p151) and in Málaga Exquisite hand-embroidered
by, skiwear town (see p184). shawls are sold by Ángeles
is sold in some Botijos – spouted Espinar in Villamanrique de
department ceramic drinking Condesa, outside Seville.
stores as well as jugs – are a local
specialist shops. speciality of the
The city centre is town of La Rambla, Markets
full of surprises, 30 km (19 miles) The markets held in most
among them the Basketware from Alhama south of Córdoba. In Andalusian towns offer a
Mercado Árabe, a de Granada Córdoba province, wonderful opportunity to try
long gallery packed Lucena (see p151) is a local food specialities, including
with shops that sell Moroccan- good place to buy ceramics and a wide range of sausages,
inspired clothing and wrought ironwork. cheeses and cured ham.
accessories. Artesanía Beas Ronda (see p180) has a few Most markets tend to sell a
specializes in marquetry, while shops selling rustic-style little of everything. However,
Mantillas Granada offers fine furniture. In Guarromán in Jaén Seville does have a few
handmade lace mantillas. province, antique furniture is specialized markets. These
Tienda La Victoria has a sold at Trastos Viejos, which is include an antiques and bric-a-
superb selection of old prints, an old cortijo (farmhouse). brac market, which is held in
curios and furniture; and in In Granada province, the Calle Feria on Thursdays.
the streets around the Gran villages of Las Alpujarras (see On Sundays, Los Pájaros pet
Vía are some grand platerías – p204) are famous for jarapas, market takes place in Plaza del
smart shops selling silverware. (rag rugs), basketwork and Alfalfa, and stamps and coins
are traded at Plaza del Cabildo.
All manner of bric-a-brac are
sold on Charco de la Pava in La
Cartuja, and a bigger rastro (flea
market) is held in the Parque
Alcosa, northeast of the centre.
The food markets in Plaza de la
Encarnación and El Arenal are
both very good.
Córdoba has an absorbing
flea market on Saturdays and
Sundays at the 16th-century
arcaded Plaza de la Corredera.
On the Costa del Sol, bric-a-
brac markets and car boot sales
are popular. The best are held on
Tuesday and Saturday mornings
Pottery stall at the Plaza de la Corredera market in Córdoba at Fuengirola fairground.
SHOPS AND MARKETS 241
DIRECTORY
Seville SHOES Sevillarte Granada
Calle Vida 13. Map 3 C2
DEPARTMENT Nuria Cobo FASHION, SHOES
(6 D5). Tel 954 21 03 91.
STORES C/Méndez Núňez esq, AND ACCESSORIES
∑ sevillarte.com
Rosario 16.
El Corte Inglés Map 3 B1 (5 C3). FÉLIX Adolfo Domínguez
Pl Duque de la Tel 954 21 13 24. Avda de la Constitución, Calle Alhóndiga 33.
Victoria 10. ∑ nuriacobo.com 26 Sevilla, 41001. Tel 958 25 27 85.
Map 1 C5 (5 C2). Paco Rodríguez Map 3 C2 (5 C4). Cortefiel
Tel 954 59 70 00. C/Tetuán 5–7. Tel 954 21 80 26.
Gran Vía de Colón 1.
∑ elcorteingles.es Map 3 C1 (5 C3). ART AND ANTIQUES Tel 958 22 35 47.
Tel 954 21 66 06. ∑ cortefiel.es
FASHION AND Antigüedades Angel
ACCESSORIES FLAMENCO Luis Friazza Julio Callejón
Albanicos Díaz Calle Zaragoza 48. Calle Mesones 36.
Adolfo Domínguez Map 3 B1 (5 B3).
Pl Duque de la Victoria 8. Calle Sierpes 71. Tel 958 25 87 74.
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Tel 954 22 35 67. ∑ juliocallejon.com
Map 1 C5 (5 C2).
Tel 608 11 08 90. Tel 954 22 81 02. FOOD AND WINE
Tienda La Victoria
∑ adolfodominguez. Calzados Mayo Hornos San Bernado C/Alhondiga 6.
com Plaza de la Alfalfa 2. Avda Menéndez Pelayo 8. Tel 958 25 81 60.
Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Map 4 D2 (6 E5).
El Caballo Tel 954 22 55 55. Zara
Tel 954 41 90 53.
Calle Antonia Diaz 7. Calle Recogidas 10–12.
Map 3 B2 (5 C4). Juan Foronda Hornos de San Tel 958 25 25 04.
Tel 955 12 55 02. Calle Sierpes 79. Buenaventura
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Calle Carlos Cañal 28. ARTS AND CRAFTS
∑ elcaballo.com
Tel 954 21 40 50. Map 3 B1 (5 B3).
Loewe ∑ juanforonda.com
Artesanía Beas
Tel 954 22 33 72. Calle de Santa Rosalía 20.
Plaza Nueva 12.
Juan Osete Supermercado Baco Tel 958 81 37 58.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Calle de Castilla 10. Calle Cuna 2.
Tel 954 22 52 53. Map 3 A1. Mantillas Granada
Map 3 C1 (6 D2).
∑ loewe.com Tel 954 34 33 31. Carretera de Murcia 120,
Tel 954 21 13 13.
Albaicín.
Maquedano RELIGIOUS OBJECTS El Torno Tel 958 27 13 28.
Calle Sierpes 40. Plaza del Cabildo s/n.
Casa Rodríguez Mercado Árabe
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
Calle Francos 35. La Alcaicería.
Tel 954 56 47 71. Tel 954 21 91 90.
Map 3 C1 (6 D3).
∑ maquedano.com Tel 954 22 78 42. ANTIQUES AND
Massimo Dutti
Córdoba GIFTS
Velasco
Velazquez 12. Calle Chapineros 4 Antigüedades
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). FASHION
(off Calle Francos). Gonzalo Reyes
Tel 954 56 30 36. Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Mango Calle Mesones 1.
∑ massimodutti.com Tel 954 21 83 38. Avda Gran Capitán 14–16. Tel 958 52 33 27.
Tel 957 48 53 54.
Naif Tocados ARTS AND CRAFTS FOOD AND WINE
∑ mango.com
Calle San Eloy 27. Antonio Campos
ARTS AND CRAFTS Tarta y Arte
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). C/Alfarería 22, Triana. Puentezuelas 6.
Tel 677 78 20 67. Map 3 A2. Artesanos Tel 958 99 11 93.
Purificación García Tel 651 88 19 20. Cordobeses
Calle Judios, s/n (Zoco). Andalusia
Plaza Nueva 8. Cerámica Santa Ana
Tel 957 20 40 33.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Calle San Jorge 31, Triana.
Tel 954 50 11 29. Map 3 A2 (5 A4). Manuel Reyes Ángeles Espinar
∑ purificaciongarcia. Tel 954 33 39 90. Maldonado Calle Pascual Márquez 8,
com Calle Armas 6. Villamanrique de Condesa,
Martián
Tel 957 47 91 16. Sevilla. Tel 955 75 56 20
Zara Calle Sierpes 74.
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Meryan (call ahead).
Calle José de Velilla 2–4.
Tel 954 21 34 13. Calleja de las Flores 2. Antigüedades
Map 3 B1 (5 C2).
Tel 957 47 59 02. Trastos Viejos
Tel 954 56 00 96. Muebles Ceballos
∑ zara.es Calle Feria 49 Sombrerería Autovía E5 km 280, Aldea
(near Calle de Relator). Herederos de J Russi de los Rios 1, Guarromán,
CHILDREN’S Map 2 D4. Calle Conde de Cárdenas Jaén. Tel 953 61 51 26.
CLOTHES Tel 954 90 17 54. 1, Gondomar 4. Cerámica Miguel Ruiz
Larrana Tel 957 47 79 53.
El Postigo Jiménez S L
Calle Blanca de los Ríos 4. Calle Arfe s/n. Zoco Municipal Camino Viejo de Jún s/n,
Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Map 3 B2 (5 C4). Calle Judíos s/n. Jún, Granada.
Tel 954 21 52 80. Tel 954 56 00 13. Tel 957 29 05 75. Tel 958 41 40 77.
www.ebook3000.com
242 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Leather Goods
Leather goods such as bags and belts can be bought
all over Andalusia. Embossed leather, however, is a
speciality of the city of Córdoba (see pp144–50).
Rugs
Andalusian rug-making skills have
developed over centuries. The most famous Inlaid Boxes
rug-making area is in the Alpujarras (see Marquetry is produced in Granada
pp204–5), where rugs are made in various (see pp194–202). Craftsmen make
fibres, including cotton and wool, and in furniture, boxes, and other items
colour schemes in which earth colours inlaid with ivory and coloured
and blues predominate. woods in Moorish designs.
SHOPS AND MARKETS 243
Handmade Fans
A classic souvenir
from Andalusia, a
fan is useful in
the searing
heat. The most
exclusive are
Castanets wooden, carved and
Castanets, a classic painted by hand.
flamenco musical
instrument, can be bought
in a medley of sizes, made
of wood or plastic.
Guitars
In the land of flamenco,
guitars are a speciality. Mantillas
Workshops in A mantilla is a headdress of lace draped
Córdoba produce over a large and ornate comb which is
top-quality, custom- crafted from tortoiseshell or made in plastic.
made guitars, many
of which are destined
for famous guitarists.
Marmalade from the Convento de Pimentón (paprika) Coriander seeds Cumin seeds
Santa Paula (see p94) in Seville
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244 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT
IN ANDALUSIA
In Andalusia there is almost always a lively sporting fixtures. There is also music
buzz in the streets, and activities such as bar- and dance in abundance – Andalusia
hopping and people-watching can provide is, after all, the home of flamenco.
enough entertainment in themselves to fill Given the mild climate, many events
up any spare moment of your holiday. take place out of doors; in summer, when
But there is also plenty more going on. daytime temperatures soar to up to 45°C
Southern Spain boasts a busy programme (113°F), they do not start until late in the
of traditional fiestas (see pp42–3), as well as evening, when the air is cooler. Many
a variety of annual cultural festivals (see cultural events and concerts begin at
pp38–41), bullfights (see pp30–31) and around midnight.
www.ebook3000.com
246 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Football Entertainment
Football is the most popular for Children
spectator sport in Spain. Seville In Spain, children go wherever
has two rival teams, FC Sevilla, adults go at just about any time
based at the Estadio Ramón of day or night. If you want to
Sánchez Pizjuán, and Betis, take yours for a treat, there are
who play at the Estadio several options. Isla Mágica (see The port of Gibraltar from the vantage
Benito Villamarín. p108) in Seville is Andalusia’s point of a cable car
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N A N D A LU S I A 247
DIRECTORY
Practical Theatre GRANADA Bullfighting
Information Centro Cultural
SEVILLE CÓRDOBA
El Giraldillo Manuel de Falla
Teatro Central Paseo de los Mártires. Plaza de Toros
∑ elgiraldillo.es C/ José Gálvez 6, Isla de la Tel 958 22 21 88. Avenida de Gran Vía
Guía del Ocio Cartuja. Map 1 C2.
∑ manueldefalla.org Parque. Tel 957 23 25 07.
∑ guiadelocio.com Tel 955 54 21 55.
∑ juntadeandalucia. Festival Internacional GRANADA
Lanetro es/culturaydeporte/ de Música y Danza
∑ lanetro.com teatrocentral/ Tel 958 56 06 11.
Plaza de Toros
∑ granadafestival.org
Avenida Doctor Olóriz 25.
CÓRDOBA
Booking Tickets Tel 958 27 24 51.
Gran Teatro Other Live Music
Entradas.com Avenida Gran Capitán 3. Football
Tel 902 20 09 20. Tel 957 48 02 37. SEVILLE
∑ entradas.com ∑ teatrocordoba.com Estadio Benito
Naima Jazz Café Villamarín (Betis)
Ticketmaster GRANADA Calle Trajano 47.
Tel 902 48 84 88. Avenida Heliópolis,
Teatro Alhambra Map 1 C5 (5 C1). Seville. Tel 902 19 19 07.
∑ ticketmaster.es
Calle Molinos 56. Tel 954 38 22 48. ∑ realbetisbalompie.es
Tel 958 02 80 00. ∑ naimacafejazz.com
Flamenco Estadio Ramón
Teatro Isabel GRANADA Sánchez Pizjuán
SEVILLE La Católica
C/ Almona del Campillo 2. Festival de Jazz (Sevilla FC)
Bienal de Flamenco Tel 958 22 29 07. de Granada Avenida Eduardo Dato,
Tel 954 2 34 46. Casa Morisca, Horno del Seville. Map 4 F2.
MÁLAGA Oro 14. Tel 958 21 59 80. Tel 902 51 00 11.
La Carbonería
Calle Levies 18. Teatro Cánovas ∑ jazzgranada.net ∑ sevillafc.es
Map 4 D1 (6 E3). Plaza de El Ejido.
Tel 954 56 37 49. Tel 951 30 89 02. Nightlife Entertainment
Casa de la Memoria Teatro Cervantes for Children
SEVILLE
de Al Andalus Calle Ramos Marín.
BENALMÁDENA
C/ Cuna 6. Tel 952 22 41 09. Gran Casino Aljarafe
Map 3 C1 (6 D2). ∑ teatrocervantes.com Avenida de la Arboleda, Selwo Marina
Tel 954 56 06 70. Tomares. Parque de la Paloma.
Cinema Tel 902 42 42 22. Tel 902 19 04 82.
CÓRDOBA ∑ grancasinoaljarafe.
SEVILLE ∑ selwomarina.com
La Bulería com
Calle Pedro López 3. Avenida 5 Cines Teleférico
Marqués de Paradas 15. Metro Benalmádena
Tel 957 48 38 89. Calle Betis 29.
Tel 954 29 30 25. Explanada de Tivoli.
El Cardenal Rejoneo Tel 902 19 04 82.
Calle Torrijos 10 CÓRDOBA
Calle Betis 31. ∑ teleferico
Tel 957 48 31 12. Filmoteca de benalmadena.com
∑ tablaocardenal.es Andalucía BENALMÁDENA
Concurso Nacional Medina y Corella 5. Casino Tivoli World
de Arte Flamenco Tel 957 10 36 27. Avda de Tivoli s/n.
∑ filmotecade
Torrequebrada
Tel 957 48 02 37. Avenida del Sol. Tel 952 57 70 16.
andalucia.com ∑ tivoli.es
GRANADA Tel 952 57 73 00.
MARBELLA ∑ casino ESTEPONA
Sala Albayzín Complejo torrequebrada.com
Carretera de Murcia, Cinematográfico Selwo Aventura
Mirador San Cristóbal. GRANADA
Gran Marbella Avda Selwo s/n,
Tel 958 80 46 46. Cines Teatro Goya. Granada 10 Autovía A7 km 162.5.
∑ flamenco Tel 952 81 64 21. Cárcel Baja 10. Tel 902 19 04 82.
albayzin.com ∑ cinesgran Tel 958 22 41 26. ∑ selwo.es
Zambra María La marbella.com ∑ granada10.com
Canastera JEREZ DE LA
Camino del Opera and MARBELLA FRONTERA
Sacromonte 89. Classical Music Zoobotánico Jerez
Casino Nueva
Tel 958 12 11 83. C/ Madreselva s/n.
SEVILLE Andalucía
∑ granadainfo.com/ Hotel Andalucía Plaza.
Tel 956 14 97 85.
canastera Teatro de la ∑ zoobotanico
Maestranza Tel 952 81 40 00.
∑ casinomarbella.com
jerez.com
JEREZ DE LA Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3
FRONTERA B2 (5 C5). Tel 954 22 33 TABERNAS
PUERTO DE SANTA
Centro Andaluz de 44. ∑ teatrodelamae MARÍA Oasys Parque Tematico
Flamenco stranza.es Mini-Hollywood
Palacio Pemartin, Plaza Casino Bahía de Cádiz Tabernas, Almería.
Real Orquesta
San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 Sinfónica de Sevilla Tel 956 87 10 42. Tel 902 53 35 32.
34. ∑ centroandaluz Tel 954 56 15 36. ∑ casinobahiade ∑ oasysparque
deflamenco.es ∑ rossevilla.es cadiz.es tematico.com
www.ebook3000.com
248 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Andalusia has a perfect climate for calm waters of the Mediterranean. Away
enjoying a range of outdoor activities, from the seashore, there are many golf
with comparatively few cold or wet days, courses and some great countryside –
and reliable sunshine most of the year. mostly hilly or mountainous – suitable for
Its coastline offers a great variety of hiking and horse riding. In winter, skiers head
watersports – from windsurfing on the for Europe’s southernmost winter-sport
Atlantic coast, to scuba diving in the clear, resort on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada.
Equestrian Sports
The horse forms a proud part
Hiking down from the Sierra Nevada through the Alpujarras of Andalusia’s traditions, as can
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 249
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250 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Specialist Holidays
A good way to spend a week or
two in Andalusia while learning
something useful at the same
time is to go on a special-
interest holiday. If you want to
get deep into the heart of
Andalusia, you could try a
residential flamenco dancing
workshop at Cortijo del Caño
in Granada, for example.
Cooking is another way to
learn something about your
surroundings. Annie B’s Spanish
The impressive and atmospheric Arab baths in Granada Kitchen runs residential courses
in Mediterranean cooking, while
Naturism focus more on pampering at L’Atelier in the Alpujarras
Topless bathing is tacitly and beauty treatments rather you will be taught vegan and
accepted at all resorts, most of than providing health- vegetarian cuisine.
which also have one or more enhancing therapy. Learning to speak Spanish is
discreet, officially recognized The spa at Gran Hotel another obvious way to make
naturist beaches in a cove away Guadalpin Banus (Puerto a holiday yield tangible benefits,
from the main beach. Vera Banus, Marbella coast) but keep in mind that you may
Playa Club in Almería is a hotel specializes in Oriental Spa pick up an Andaluz accent
specifically for nudists, and treatments, with Japanese and rather than the more neutral
Costa Natura near Estepona Chinese influences as well as pronunciation of central Spain.
is a residential “village” also meditation, yoga and pilates Many private companies run
dedicated to naturism. For classes. Guests at the Hotel courses in Spanish lasting from
further information about La Fuente de la Higuera, in a week to several months, but a
naturism, contact the Ronda, can choose from a safe option is to make arrange-
Asociación Naturista-Nudista range of facials, wraps and ments with the organization
de Andalucía. massages or have a soak in in charge of promoting the
the Turkish baths. Hotel Villa Spanish language, the
Padierna Palace in Marbella Instituto Cervantes.
Spas and Arab Baths focuses more on well-being, Other subjects on offer
Andalusia’s traditional spas are offering slimming and anti- are not directly related to
mainly small, out-of-the-way stress treatments. The serenity Andalusia. Authentic Adven-
towns where springs of thermal spa at Las Dunas, in Estepona, tures will teach you painting,
or medicinal waters supply uses Ligne St Barth products photography, as well as taking
hotels-cum-sanatoriums that from the French Caribbean in you for guided walks, and the
treat patients with a range of its pampering treatments. The Complejo Turístico Salitre
ailments. The main ones are Marbella Club Hotel (see p218) in the mountains behind
Alhama de Almería, Sierra has a beachfront spa that offers Estepona will introduce you
Alhamilla (Almería), Alhama de 99 thalasso, body and beauty to the delights of the night
Granada, Alicun de las Torres treatments, including a seashell sky from its observatory.
(Granada), Graena (near facial massage. The Elysium
Guadix), Lanjarón (in the Spa at NH Sotogrande
Alpujarras), San Andrés (Jaén), offers treatments such as
Carratraca (Málaga), Fuente hydromassage and a colour-
Armaga at Tolox (Málaga) and therapy relaxation room.
Fuente Amarga at Chiclana in When Andalusia was under
Cádiz. Contact the Asociación the sway of the Moors, it had
Nacional de Estaciones many public bathhouses – the
Termales for further details. equivalent to Turkish baths.
Spa hotels have seen a huge The last one closed in the
growth in popularity over the 17th century, however private
past few years. These hotels companies have been re-
tend to be larger, luxury creating their own “Arab baths”,
properties and are often with hot and cold rooms and
located beachside or massages available, in the cities
complemented with a golf of Seville, Córdoba, Málaga and
course. The spa facilities are Granada. Sessions need to be
normally reserved for the use reserved – and, in some cases, An artist painting the coastal scene at
of hotel guests and tend to paid for – in advance. Nerja, on the Costa del Sol
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 251
DIRECTORY
Walking and Dallas Love Stables Skydive Spain Villa Padierna Palace
Trekking Bubión (Alpujarras). Calle Virgen de los Reyes Hotel GL
Tel 608 45 38 02. 3, Bolullos de la Mitación. Carretera de Cádiz,
Federación Andaluza ∑ spain-horse-riding. Tel 955 76 60 56. km 166, Benahavís.
de Montañismo com ∑ skydivespain.com Tel 902 20 06 76.
Calle Santa Paula 23, ∑ hotelvillapadierna.
2° Planta, Federación Andaluza Skiing com
Granada. de Hípica
Tel 958 29 13 40. Tel 954 21 81 46. Sierra Nevada
Tel 902 70 80 90.
Arab Baths
∑ fedamon.com ∑ fah.es
∑ sierranevadaski.com Córdoba
Spanish Steps Golf Calle Corregidor Luis de
Calle Carreteria 6, Naturism la Cerda 51.
Cómpeta (Málaga). La Cala Resort
Asociación Naturista- Tel 957 48 47 46.
Tel 952 55 32 70. Urb La Cala Golf s/n,
Nudista de Andalucía ∑ hammamspain.com
∑ spanish-steps.com Mijas Costa.
Tel 952 669 016. Tel 628 80 62 50. Granada
Cycling ∑ anna-nudismo.es
∑ lacala.com Calle Santa Ana 16.
Costa Natura Tel 958 22 99 78.
Biking Andalucía Federación
Carretera de Cádiz ∑ hammamspain.com
Apartado de Correos 346, Andaluza de Golf
km 151, Estepona.
Orgiva (Granada). Tel 952 22 55 90. Málaga
Tel 952 80 80 65.
Tel 676 00 25 46. ∑ rfga.org Plaza de los Mártires 5.
∑ costanatura.com
∑ bikingandalucia. Tel 952 21 20 18.
Montecastillo Barceló Vera Playa Club ∑ hammamspain.com
com
Golf Resort Carretera de Garrucha a
Fundación de los Ctra Jerez-Arcos km 6, Seville
Villaricos, Vera (Almería).
Ferrocarriles Jerez de La Frontera. Tel 950 62 70 10.
Calle Aire 15.
Españoles Tel 956 15 12 00. ∑ veraplaya.info
Tel 955 01 00 25.
∑ ffe.es/viasverdes ∑ barcelo.com ∑ airedesevilla.com
Spas and Spa
Fishing Tennis Hotels Specialist
Holidays
Federación Andaluza Federación Asociación Nacional
de Pesca Deportiva Andaluza de Tenis de Estaciones Annie B’s Spanish
Calle Paraíso 4, Tel 954 44 44 33. Termales Kitchen
Edificio Jerez 74, ∑ fatenis.com Tel 902 11 76 22. Calle Viñas 11, Vejer de
2ª Planta, Oficina 6m ∑ balnearios.org la Frontera.
Jerez de la Frontera Water Sports Tel 620 56 06 49.
(Cádiz). Las Dunas Beach
Federación Hotel & Spa L’Atelier
Tel 956 18 75 85.
Española de Urb. La Boladilla Baja, Calle Alberca 21, Mecina
∑ fapd.org
Actividades Ctra de Cadiz km 163.5, Fondales (Alpujarras).
Wildlife and Subacuáticas 29689 Estepona, Marbella. Tel 958 85 75 01.
Birdwatching Tel 932 00 67 69. Tel 951 08 20 90. ∑ atelier-mecina.com
∑ fedas.es Gran Hotel Guadalpin Authentic
Foundation for
Real Federación Banus Adventures
Information and
Española de Vela C/Edgar Neville s/n, Tel 01453 823 328
Research on Marine Nueva Andalucía,
Tel 915 19 50 08. (in the UK).
Mammals
∑ rfev.es
Puerto Banus, Marbella. ∑ authentic
Pedro Cortés 4, Tarifa. Tel 952 41 01 51. adventures.co.uk
Tel 956 62 70 08. ∑ granhotelguadalpin
∑ firmm.org Air Sports Complejo Turístico
banusmarbella.com
Balloon Flights Salitre
Iberian Wildlife Hotel La Fuente de Tel 952 11 70 05.
Tel 918 98 91 95. Spain la Higuera ∑ turismosalitre.com
∑ iberianwildlife.com ∑ balloonflightsspain. Partido de los Frontones,
com 29400 Ronda, Málaga. Cortijo del Caño
Equestrian Sports Tel 952 16 56 08. Lanjarón (Alpujarras).
Federación
∑ hotellafuente.com Tel 617 81 95 24.
Los Alamos Andaluza de los
∑ alpujarrasinfo.com/
Apartado 56, Deportes Aéreos NH Sotogrande dance
Barbate (Cádiz). Estadio de la Cartuja, Autovía A-7, Salida 130,
Tel 956 43 10 47. Seville. 11310 Cádiz. Instituto Cervantes
∑ losalamosriding. Tel 954 32 54 38. Tel 956 69 54 44. Tel 914 36 76 00.
co.uk ∑ feada.org ∑ nh-hotels.com ∑ cervantes.es
www.ebook3000.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
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254 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The economy of Andalusia is heavily final and the European Grand Prix,
dependent on tourism. The rich variety of which have led to an increase in the
natural attractions and its cultural heritage number of tourist facilities and an
draw visitors to the area throughout the improved infrastructure. The Junta de
year. Many have even settled in this Andalucía has tourist offices across the
evocative region, home of all things region, offering a wealth of brochures,
quintessentially Spanish: rich terracotta maps and leaflets.
landscapes, olive groves, flamenco dancing, Try not to do too much at once, but
and corridas (bullfights). savour the particular delights of one or two
Andalusia has successfully staged high- places. Adjust to the slower pace and, in
profile sporting events such as the Sierra summer, do your sightseeing early in the
Nevada Ski Championships, the UEFA Cup day before the heat becomes unbearable.
Admission Charges
Guided horse-drawn carriage tours, operating in Andalusia’s main cities Many sights offer free entry to
Spanish residents and members
When to Go advance. Visitors from all other of the European Union. Others
Any season is perfect for a visit countries are legally required charge a moderate fee (with
to Andalusia. Spring boasts to obtain a visa before travelling relevant ID, seniors, students
balmy weather and numerous to Spain. Please check the and children receive discounts).
festivals, including the Holy requirements before travel Large groups should make
Week processions and Feria de with your Spanish Consulate. advance reservations, and may
Abril (see p38), as well as local On arrival, your hotel will take be offered a discount. In
fairs in all towns, and the start of your passport details. If you lose Granada, Córdoba, Baeza,
the bullfighting season. your passport, or need legal Úbeda and Jaén, a bono turístico
Summer is hot in the region’s advice or other help while in (tourist pass) allows entrance to
interior so it is the perfect time Spain, contact your embassy various monuments and
to head to the vast coastline, or consulate.
while autumn offers pleasant
weather for sightseeing or rural
excursions. Winter weather is Tourist Information
mild in most areas, except in the All of Andalusia’s major cities
Sierra Nevada (see p203) where have several Oficinas de Turismo
you can hit the ski slopes. (tourist offices). Turespaña
provides information on Spain
at a national level, while offices
Visas and Passports run by the Junta de Andalucía
Visas are not required for cover Andalusia as a region.
citizens of EU countries. Visitors Local tourist offices usually have
from the US, Canada, Australia details only of their environs.
and New Zealand do not need a Most tourist offices are well
visa for stays of up to 90 days. organized, offering brochures
For longer visits, apply to your covering all kind of services.
Spanish Consulate for a permit They have a range of leaflets Many monuments and museums offer free
(visado) several months in listing local festivals and can or discounted entry
Metro-Centro tram in Seville’s city centre
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 255
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256 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travellers with
Special Needs
Modern buildings generally
have adequate provision for
disabled visitors, with lifts,
ramps and special toilet
facilities. However, entry to
some historical monuments
may be restricted so check
ahead with the local tourist
office or monument staff. Some
historic centres have pedestrian
zones and bicycle lanes, which Local market stall with a colourful display of fresh produce
can be used, with caution, by
wheelchairs. rural towns and public places. Responsible Travel
Disability Rights UK, a UK- Spain has a dynamic gay scene, There are a growing number of
based charity, and the Oficina with clubs, bars, hotels and hotels and guesthouses with an
de Turismo para Personas associations throughout emphasis on green tourism.
Discapacitadas in Seville can Andalusia, particularly in Andeco promotes ecotourism
provide travel information for the larger cities. in Andalusia, while Acentorural
disabled users. In Madrid, Servi- One association that and Top Rural list accommodation
COCEMFE advises on suitable promotes gay and lesbian throughout the countryside.
accommodation (see p215). rights is Colegas, while the Glamping Hub provides a
All public transport in Seville International Gay & Lesbian glamorous but green way of
is wheelchair accessible, with Travel Association has an camping, offering 14 destinations
electronic ramps or same-level online directory of gay- in Andalusia.
entry onto buses and Metro- and lesbian-friendly travel Every town and city has local
Centro trams. businesses and tour operators. markets and shops that
promote their regional produce,
and local activities and festivals
Senior Travellers to provide entertainment. Local
There are many options for both farmers belong to cooperatives,
leisurely and more active which sell their produce in the
holidays for senior travellers. markets (Mercado de Abastos).
Health spas have become Locally grown meats and fresh
popular choices as are walking International Student Identity Card fish from regional waters are
holidays. There are substantial also sold here, but there will also
discounts for travellers over the be some imported produce.
age of 55 staying in four-star Travelling on a Budget Organically grown produce
hotels, during the off-peak Most large towns have a is referred to as ecológico; while
season. US-based Road Scholar Centro de Documentación e organic meats are defined as de
specialises in offering group Información Juvenil, which corral, ecológica or orgánica,
travel experiences for seniors. provides information for and will be marked as such in
students and young people. stores and markets. Market
A valid International Student stalls that exclusively sell
Gay and Lesbian Identification Card (ISIC card) organically grown goods are
Travellers entitles you to some price very difficult to find, even in
In general, Spain openly accepts reductions, including museum bigger cities.
gays and lesbians. However, entrance fees and travel. Every town and city has local
discretion is still advisable in Many museums and monu- artisan shops. On Sunday
ments offer free entry one day mornings, Seville’s Art Market
a week so check in advance. features works from local
To dine on a budget, order professional artists. Seasonal
the menú del día (a 2–3 course markets also feature regional
meal at a fixed price) or choose artisans, with one of the most
tapas instead of dishes from la impressive being the Mercado de
carta. Another saving would be Belenes (Market of Nativity
to opt for locally brewed beer Scenes), held every December in
or house wines. the Plaza de San Francisco. Here
Youth hostels provide you will find numerous stalls
shared minimal facilities for offering intricately detailed,
a bargain price, while family- handmade nativity characters.
A Gay Pride Parade weaving its way run budget hotels offer Local activities and festivals
through the streets of Málaga more privacy. such as Holy Week processions,
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 257
annual fairs and music festivals por la mañana and the Conversion Chart
promoting local artists provide afternoon, por la tarde.
Imperial to Metric
unique entertainment. Afternoon starts after siesta 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
time, at around 5pm. 1 foot = 30 centimetres
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
Time 1 ounce = 28 grams
Spain is one hour ahead Electricity 1 pound = 454 grams
of Greenwich Mean Time The current in Spain is 220V-AC 1 pint = 0.6 litres
1 gallon = 4.6 litres
(GMT) and British Summer with two-pin, round-pronged
Time, except for brief periods plugs. Adaptors can be found
in spring and autumn when in many local hypermarkets, Metric to Imperial
clock changes are not supermarkets and electrical 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
synchronized. stores. If you can, take one with 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
The 24-hour clock is used you to be on the safe side. Many 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
for written and official hotels now use the key/card 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
purposes but not in speech. system for switching on the 1 litre = 1.8 pints
The morning is referred to as electricity supply in rooms.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Granada Senior Travellers MÁLAGA
Consulates Calle Santa Ana 4.
Centro de
Tel 958 57 52 02. Road Scholar
Australian Embassy 11 Avenue de Lafayette, Información y
Torre Espacio, Paseo de Málaga Boston, Asesoramiento
Pasaje de Chinitas 4. MA 02111-1746. Juvenil (INFOJOVEN)
la Castellana 259D,
Tel 951 30 89 11. Tel 1 800 454 5768 Calle Roger de Flor 1,
Planta 24,
28046 Madrid. Seville (outside US Málaga.
Tel 913 53 66 00. Avenida de la 1 978 323 4141). Tel 951 92 60 67.
∑ spain.embassy. Constitución 21. ∑ roadscholar.org ∑ juventud.malaga.eu
gov.au Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
Gay and Lesbian SEVILLE
Tel 954 78 75 78.
British Consulate Plaza San Francisco 19, Travellers Instituto Andaluz de
Edificio Eurocom, Calle Edificio Laredo, Seville. la Juventud
Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Map 3 C3 (5 C3).
Colegas Calle Bilbao, 8–10, Seville.
29006 Málaga. Tel 955 47 12 32. Tel 954 50 13 77.
Tel 955 03 57 16.
Tel 902 10 93 56. ∑ turismo.sevilla.org ∑ colegaweb.org
∑ informajoven.org
∑ ukinspain.fco. International Gay
Spanish Tourist
gov.uk
Office (UK) & Lesbian Travel Responsible
Canadian Consulate 6th Floor, 64 North Row, Association Travel
Edificio Horizonte, London W1K 7DE. ∑ iglta.org
Acentorural
Plaza de la Malagueta 2, Tel 020 7317 2011.
Travelling on C/Puerta del Osario 3,
1st floor, ∑ spain.info
29016 Málaga.
a Budget 2nd floor, Seville.
Travellers with Tel 954 95 61 73.
Tel 952 22 33 46. ALMERÍA ∑ acentorural.com
∑ international.gc.ca
Special Needs
Centro de Andeco
US Consulate Disability Rights UK Información Juvenil
Ground Floor, CAN Avenida Ramón
Plaza Nueva, 8-8 dupl, C/ Marín 2–2. y Cajal n°4,
2nd floor, Seville. Mezzanine, 49–51 East
Tel 950 21 13 67. Marbella (Málaga).
Road, London N1 6AH, UK.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). ∑ injuve.es Tel 952 77 09 54.
Tel (020) 7250 8181.
Tel 954 21 87 51. ∑ ecoturismo
∑ disabilityrightsuk. CÓRDOBA
∑ embusa.es enandalucia.org
org
La Casa de la
Tourist Oficina de Turismo Juventud Glamping Hub
Information para Personas Campo Madre de Dios Marion St, Denver,
Discapacitadas s/n, 14010. Colorado.
Oficinas de Turismo (CEADIS) Tel 957 76 47 07. Tel (415) 800 3004.
∑ andalucia.org Calle Fray Isidoro ∑ injuve.es ∑ glampinghub.com
de Sevilla 1, Seville.
Almería Tel 954 91 54 44. GRANADA Top Rural
Parque Nicolás ∑ cermiandalucia.es Paseo de la Castellana 79,
Salmerón s/n. Centro de
Madrid.
Tel 950 17 52 20. Servi-COCEMFE Información Juvenil
Tel 902 10 97 11.
C/Luis Cabrera 63, Avenida de Madrid 5,
∑ toprural.com
Córdoba 28002 Madrid. Granada.
Plaza del Triunfo s/n. Tel 917 44 36 00. Tel 958 20 46 52.
Tel 957 35 51 79. ∑ cocemfe.es ∑ injuve.es
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258 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Hospitals and All the cities have several Travel and Health
Pharmacies hospitals each, while the Costa Insurance
For minor ailments, visit a del Sol has a hospital situated All EU nationals are entitled to
pharmacy (farmacia), where on the main coastal highway Spanish social security cover.
pharmacists can dispense (N340) just east of Marbella. Before travelling, you must obtain
a wide range of For private care, the European Health Insurance
medication over the contact your insurance Card (see www.ehic.org.uk).
counter, but for many company for a list of Show your card or policy to
drugs you will need a centres covered by receive medical care. In some
doctor’s prescription. your plan. cases you may have to pay first
Farmacias have a Most hospitals will and be reimbursed later. For
green or red have volunteer private medical care, make sure
neon cross interpreters you have your policy on you
outside and are who speak when you request assistance.
found in most English and Travel insurance is advisable,
towns. A few Spanish pharmacy signs occasionally and should be arranged before
are open 24 hours, but other languages. your trip. Carry all
most open 12 hours a day. The Cruz Roja (Red Cross) documentation with you.
Some close for siesta. At least has an extensive network If you need a lawyer, ask your
one will be de guardia – ready throughout Spain and runs embassy or consulate (see p257)
to dispatch out of hours. The an ambulance service. to recommend one. Not all
opening rota is posted on the Your hotel and embassy or lawyers speak English, but
door of all farmacias and also consulate can provide a list of police stations may be able to
in local newspapers. English-speaking doctors and offer a volunteer interpreter
For urgent medical assistance, dentists. Dental procedures (intérprete). Otherwise you may
go to the nearest Urgencias – are safe and are generally need to hire a Traductor Oficial
the emergency ward of a cheaper than the UK or Jurado to state your case and
hospital or clinic. and US. undertake legal work.
DIRECTORY
Local Police Córdoba Hospital General Granada
Stations Comisaría de Policía Avenida de las Fuerzas Calle Reyes Catolicos 5.
Avenida Doctor Armadas 2, Tel 958 26 26 64.
Almería Fleming 2. Granada. Málaga
Tel 950 62 30 40. Tel 957 48 00 16. Tel 958 02 00 00. Calle Mesonero
Córdoba Granada Romanos 2.
Tel 957 29 07 60. Hospital Reina Sofía
Ayuntamiento Tel 952 61 08 36.
Avenida Menéndez Pidal
Granada Plaza del Carmen 5. Seville
s/n, Córdoba.
Tel 954 24 82 11. Tel 958 53 96 97. María Auxiliadora 6.
Tel 957 01 00 00.
Málaga Málaga Oficina de Tel 954 41 62 61.
Tel 952 06 18 70. Objetos Perdidos Hospital Open 24 hours.
Calle Victoria 15. Torrecardenas
Seville
Tel 951 92 61 11. Paraje de Torrecardenas Travel and Health
Tel 954 28 93 00. s/n, Almería. Insurance
Seville Oficina de
Tel 950 01 60 00. Asociación
In an Emergency Objetos Perdidos
Calle Manuel Vázquez Hospital Profesional de
Ambulance Sagastizábal 3. Traductores e
Universitario Virgen
Tel 061 and 112. Map 6 F5. Intérpretes
del Rocio
Fire Brigade Tel 954 42 04 03. Apartado de Correos 55,
Avenida Manuel Siurots
47080 Valladolid.
Tel 112. s/n, Seville.
Hospitals Tel 652 15 54 06.
Police Tel 955 01 20 00. ∑ aptij.es
Tel 112. Cruz Roja
Pharmacies European Health
Hospital Victoria Eugenia,
Lost and Stolen Insurance Card (EHIC)
Avenida de la Cruz Roja,
Property Almería PO Box 1114,
Seville. Map 2 E4.
Carretera de Ronda 325. Newcastle upon Tyne
Tel 954 35 14 00.
Almería Tel 950 26 63 12. NE99 2TL, UK.
Oficina de Objetos Hospital Costa Open 24 hours. Tel 0845 605 0707
Perdidos del Sol (from abroad
Avenida del Autovia A-7 km 187, Córdoba +44 191 218 1999).
Mediterráneo 255. Marbella, Málaga. Calle Lope de Hoces 7. ∑ europeanhealth
Tel 950 62 14 98. Tel 951 97 66 69. Tel 957 29 35 70. card.org.uk
www.ebook3000.com
260 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Wiring Money
Correos
∑ correos.es
MoneyGram
∑ moneygram.com
Western Union
∑ westernunion.com
A branch of the BBVA bank, Seville
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 261
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by
the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple). All notes show €5 note
the stars of the European Union.
€10 note
€20 note
€50 note
€100 note
€200 note
€500 note
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and
€1; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents
and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold, while 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
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262 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
Movistar
∑ movistar.es
Orange
∑ orange.es
Phone House
∑ phonehouse.es
Vodafone
∑ vodafone.es
Yoigo
∑ yoigo.com
Kiosk selling newspapers and magazines
Internet
Addresses The local listings magazines Biblioteca Corredera
In speech, on maps and are the Giraldillo in Seville and Centro Cívico Centro, Plaza de
in written information, the Guía del Ocio in Granada la Corredera, s/n, Córdoba.
Spaniards often drop the Calle (see p244). FIND has complete Tel 957 49 68 82.
in street names, so that Calle cultural listings and nightlife Cybercafe Abakan
Mateos Gago becomes just for the Costa del Sol and La Calle Marcos 19, Almería.
Mateos Gago. Other terms, Tribuna, Córdoba’s weekly free
Locutorio Duquesa
such as Plaza (Pza), Callejón, sheet, publishes useful
Calle Duquesa, Granada.
Carretera (Ctra) and Avenida practical information. Málaga
(Avda), remain unchanged. has Qué Hacer/What’s On. Meeting Point
In addresses, a s/n (sin The online guide www. Plaza de la Merced 29, Málaga.
numéro) after the street name guiadelocio.com has current Starbucks
indicates that the building listings of events and activities Av Constitucion 11, Seville.
has no number. Outside towns, for all provinces of Spain. Tel 954 21 80 05.
an address may say “Carretera
Córdoba–Málaga km 47” – Postal services
this means the sight is on Television and Radio
General Information
the highway near to the In 2010, Spain eliminated the Tel 902 19 71 97.
kilometre sign. use of all analogue TV signals, ∑ correos.es
and changed completely to
digital TV as the standard signal, Almería
Newspapers and providing around 30 TV channels Calle San Juan Bosco 35.
Magazines for free. Two are state Tel 950 62 04 33.
The most important channels, TVE1 and TVE2, Córdoba
national papers are El País and the main private ones C/ José Cruz Conde 15.
(the socialist paper with a are Antena 3, Cuatro and Tel 957 49 63 42.
daily Andalusian Telecinco. In addition, Granada
version), ABC Andalusia has Canal Puerta Real 2.
(conservative), and El Sur and Canal 2 Tel 958 22 11 38.
Mundo (independent). Canal Sur logo Andalusia. Canal Plus
Málaga
Local papers such as is a cable TV company
Avenida de Andalucía (El
Ideal in Granada, Diario de showing films, sport and Corte Inglés).
Sevilla, the Córdoba Diario, documentaries. Subtitled Tel 952 36 43 80.
Almería Diario, or the Málaga foreign films are listed by the
Sur, have extensive listings of letters V.O. (Versión Original). Seville
local cultural and sporting The best radio news Avenida de la Constitución 32.
Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
activities. An English version of programmes are broadcast
Tel 954 22 47 60.
Sur is distributed free in Málaga, on Radio Nacional de España.
Granada, Almería and Cádiz on BBC World Service frequencies Couriers
Fridays or is viewable online at and listings can be found on
www.surinenglish.com. their website, www.bbc.co.uk/ DHL
The English paper Costa del Sol worldservice. With the Tel 902 12 24 24.
News can be purchased weekly in all-digital signal, most ∑ dhl.es
kiosks along the Málaga coast. programmes are available UPS
Almería province also has an in their original language Tel 902 88 88 20.
English newspaper, Costa Almería simply by changing the TV ∑ ups.com
News, published on Friday. language setting.
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264 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Andalusia is well served by a wide range of Seville and Málaga have good rail links,
transport. Each year sees the arrival of and the AVE high-speed train between major
thousands of flights, mostly from European cities will often be quicker than flying
countries, though some are from further (including checking-in time). There are
afield. Most flights from beyond Europe stop coaches from northern Europe and regional
in Madrid or Barcelona before arriving at services in Andalusia. Ferries sail from
Andalusia’s busiest airport, Málaga. Located a Plymouth and Portsmouth to Santander and
short plane or ferry ride from Morocco, Bilbao; with a 10-hour drive to Andalusia.
Málaga serves as a gateway to Africa. Seville Driving is not recommended in summer when
airport also caters to international flights. the number of cars on the road peaks.
Arriving by Air
Most of Europe’s major airlines,
as well as some Middle Eastern
and American lines, run
scheduled flights to Málaga,
Andalusia’s main airport. A large
portion of the traffic, however, is
made up of budget airlines and
cheap charter flights, which Seville airport, conveniently situated just outside the city
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 265
Almería Airport
DIRECTORY
Located 9 km (6 miles) west of
the city, Almería’s airport has Arriving by Air
limited facilities. Flights are Air Europa
offered to Barcelona, Madrid, ∑ aireuropa.com
Seville, Palma de Mallorca,
Brussels, Manchester and Melilla British Airways
with Air Europa, Air Berlin, BMI ∑ britishairways.com
Baby, Easyjet, Ryanair and BMI Baby
Monarch Airlines. ∑ bmibaby.com
Easyjet
Airport Car Hire ∑ easyjet.com
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266 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Avila Guadalajara
Colmbra Plasencia MADRID Teruel
Cuefnca
Castellón
Cáceres Toledo
Key
Valencia
Lisbon Ciudad Real Main station
Badajoz Albacete Gandia
Mérida Major rail route
High-speed AVE route
Alicante
Córdoba AVE route under
Murcia
construction
Sevilla Jaén
Granada Aguilas Cartagena
Huelva
Faro
Málaga Almería Spain’s Rail Network operates a wide variety
Cádiz
Fuengirola of services. Study a RENFE brochure or train
Algeciras
timetable before you buy your ticket.
Córdoba
Córdoba has a grand, modern
station. Located in the north-
west of the city, it is just a few
minutes by car or taxi to the
Santa Justa railway station, Seville city centre. The AVE to Madrid
takes just 2 hours; to Seville
Timetables tickets. The auto check-in 45 minutes. The station is well
The punctuality rating of trains machines allow you to print served with cafés, shops, auto
in Andalusia is quite high, out tickets reserved online. check-in machines and a
particularly for the AVE. Brochures Numerous amenities include tourist office. Outside, there
with prices and timetables are a café, tourist office, car hire are bus stops, a taxi rank and
distributed free and are easy agencies, shops, newsstands, car hire agencies. The coach
to follow. Information for ATMs and money-changing station is adjacent.
laborables (weekdays) and
sábados, domingos y festivos
(Saturdays, Sundays and public
holidays) is at the bottom of
the timetable.
Seville
Santa Justa is a modern and
user-friendly station, located
about 5 minutes by car or bus
from the city centre.
Use the self-service ticket
machines to buy cercanías Platforms at Córdoba railway station
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268 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
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270 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Road Signs
Driving in Andalusia Standard European road signs
Many of the main roads and motorways in Andalusia are new are used in Andalusia. However,
and in very good condition. The road network is continually signposting is often confusing
expanding, so always check a recently published map. Fold- and inconsistent, so be especially
attentive when navigating in or
out maps can be obtained at airports or tourist offices. You
out of cities. When leaving a
should also bear in mind that the number of accidents on town, scan the road for direction
Spanish roads is quite high, due to the confusion in road rules. signs to other towns. Some are
Always drive with caution, but particularly in July and August small and easily missed. If you
when the roads are packed with holiday-makers who do not need to change direction, look
know the area. When visiting towns and villages, it is best to for signs, which say Cambio de
Sentido. They generally lead to
park your vehicle away from the centre and then walk in. bridges or underpasses where
you can turn around.
Rules of the Road
In Spain people drive on the Local Drivers
right, so you must give way to Many drivers in Andalusia
the right. At intersections and ignore road signs and speed
roundabouts always proceed up at amber traffic lights. It is
with caution. common for drivers to come up
The speed limits are 50 km/h close to the car in front to signal
(30 mph) in built-up areas; that they want to overtake.
90–100 km/h (55–60 mph) Indicators are not necessarily
outside them and 120 k/h used by Spanish drivers, so be
(75 mph) on motorways. Seat alert to the movements of
belts are compulsory both in nearby vehicles.
the back and front; motor
cyclists must wear crash
helmets. Drivers must always Motorways
carry two warning triangles In Andalusia almost all the
and a reflective vest, as well motorways (autovías) are toll-
Typically narrow Andalusian street blocked as a first-aid kit. free; except for the A4 autopista
by a parked car
(toll motorway) that connects of the residents, this can make DIRECTORY
Seville and Cádiz, and the AP7 it quite stressful to drive.
along the Costa del Sol, which Additionally, parking access is Parking
has some sections with tolls. time-limited in Seville and Almería
When driving on the completely restricted to city Garage Belén
autopista, the toll booths are residents in some parts of Avenida Federico García Lorca 42.
at sporadic intervals. At the Granada’s centre. Tel 950 25 30 60.
booths a sign posts the Córdoba
corresponding fare. Drive into Aparcamientos Isolux Corsan
one of the lanes with a green Breakdown Services Córdoba S.L.
light indicating the method of If you break down, pull to a safe Avenida Custodios 2.
payment you wish to use. location at the side of the road. Tel 957 29 96 19.
Put on the reflective vest Granada
(required to be carried in your Parquigran
car at all times) and place one Plaza de San Agustín s/n.
reflective triangle in front and Tel 958 29 60 33.
another approximately 50 m Málaga
(165 ft) behind the car. If La Marina
necessary, call for assistance, Plaza de la Marina 4.
Tel 952 21 88 31.
from breakdown services
such as ADA, Europ Assistance Seville
or RACE. Aparcamientos Magdalena
Driving in the Sierra Nevada along one Méndez Núñez 1.
Tel 954 22 83 33.
of the highest roads in Europe
Parking
Breakdown Services
In Seville, on-street parking is
Driving in the extremely difficult to find and ADA
Countryside is metered for a maximum stay Tel 915 19 33 00.
∑ ada.es
Only head off the major “N” of 1–2 hours. The best option
roads (rutas nacionales) if you for visitors is a parking garage – Europ Assistance
are not in any hurry. Some of a few public garages operate, Tel 902 15 85 85
(outside Spain 34 915 149 900).
the minor roads in Andalusia otherwise some hotels offer ∑ europ-assistance.com
wind and climb, and their parking for guests.
surfaces will often be in poor There are few car parks in RACE
condition. In addition, although Córdoba and parking costs (affiliated to the RAC in the UK)
Tel 902 40 45 45.
diversions may be marked, €1.50-2.50 per hour in Seville,
when you take them you may Granada, Córdoba & Málaga. Car Rental
find they are inadequately
signposted. Taking a minor road Atesa
∑ atesa.es
may add hours to a journey.
Jerez (Cádiz) Airport
Tel 956 18 68 14.
Málaga
Buying Petrol Tel 952 35 65 50.
Many petrol stations in and Seville
around Andalusia still have Tel 954 41 26 40.
attendants. Petrol stations out Avis
of town tend to remain open 24 Logos for AVIS and Hertz, popular ∑ avis.es
hours a day. car rental companies Córdoba
At self-service stations you Tel 957 40 14 45.
Granada
generally have to pay for the
petrol before it is dispatched. Car Rental Tel 958 44 64 55.
Málaga
Gasoil (diesel) and sin plomo In all major cities, car hire agencies Tel 902 09 02 82.
(unleaded) are usually available. are mostly located near the Seville
Credit cards are widely accepted. airports, with some near train Tel 902 11 02 83.
stations. Cars can be returned to Hertz
the same location, or dropped ∑ hertz.es
Driving in Town off in another town, although Córdoba
Driving in the towns and cities there may be a surcharge for Tel 957 40 20 61.
of Andalusia can be difficult. The this. Local companies such as Granada
Tel 958 20 44 54.
centres of Seville and Córdoba Atesa, Avis and Hertz, provide
Málaga
have streets that are narrow, good bargains, but be wary of Tel 952 35 50 40.
labyrinthine and hard to anyone asking for a large credit Seville
negotiate in a car. Coupled with card deposit. Most rental cars are Tel 954 51 47 20.
the often inconsiderate driving manual; automatics cost more.
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272 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around
Towns and Cities
Many of Andalusia’s cities, towns and villages have small,
historic centres, characterized by narrow streets and tiny
squares. Walking is an excellent and practical way of getting
Typical circulares bus, operating
around the sights, especially as entry by car is restricted to
around Seville
residents in parts of many towns. For the same reason, city
buses are generally not much good for travelling between In Granada, buses are less useful
monuments, but they are useful to get to shopping areas or except for Nos. 31, 32 and 34,
from your hotel into the centre of town. Buses are very cheap, which run from the centre of
clean and safe, and generally only crowded at rush hours. the city to Albaicín, Alhambra
and Sacromonte.
In Córdoba the Nos. 3 and
16 take passengers from the
historic area to the more
commercial centre of the city.
Málaga’s L3 services the town
hall area and train station, while
in Almería the No. 1 bus
operates around the Old Town.
Metro
Seville’s Metro system was
designed to aid transport be-
Guided tour visiting the Patio de las Doncellas at Seville’s Real Alcázar tween the outer areas of Seville
and the city centre. Line 1 is
Walking monuments. They take up to useful for getting from the
In many Andalusian towns, four people and cost from historical centre (Puerta Jerez)
major sights are often only a €35–45 for 40 minutes. For tours to shopping centers (Nervión or
short walk from where you are on foot, consult local tourist Ciudad Expo’s MetroMar). The
likely to be staying – at most offices about multilingual system will eventually consist
just a short bus or taxi ride walking and cultural tours with of four Metro lines, which will
away. One of the joys of El Legado Andalusi. provide easy access to bus and
Andalusia’s cities is to lose In Seville, Bici 4 City can rent train stations and include a line
yourself in their narrow streets you a bike that comes complete to the airport (Line 4).
and to stumble upon the sights with an MP3 guided tour. Place your card (see Tickets
as you go. A more relaxing section) over the reader to
Drivers in Spain option is a cruise up pass through barriers, and press
tend not to respect the Guadalquivir the green button by the train
pedestrians, even River on a riverboat, door to open it. On-board
where pedestrians with spectacular overhead monitors announce
have the right of views of the city. the stops.
way. Crossings with Open-topped
pedestrian signals Red signal for wait; green double-decker City
often have only a for walk with care Sightseeing buses Metro-Centro
flashing amber light offer hop-on-hop-off The Metro-Centro tram opened
showing to oncoming drivers, tours complete with audio in 2008 in Seville city centre.
even when the signal guides, available in Seville, It provides climate-controlled,
pedestrians see shows a green Granada, Cádiz and Málaga. rapid transport between San
man; therefore it is advisable to Bernardo station and Plaza
be very cautious. Nueva in an otherwise
City Buses pedestrian-only zone. Other
City buses are most useful for lines are planned over the next
Guided Tours getting to outlying sights few years, extending the
There is no better way to soak because the historical centres network to Puerta Osario and
up the ambience of Andalusia’s are mostly pedestrianized. In Santa Justa train station.
fine cities than from the seat of Seville, the useful lines for Pay at the machine at tram
an old-fashioned, horse-drawn visitors are the circulares, stops (or pass your card over
carriage. Drivers wait in line numbered C1 to C6, which run the reader on board); press the
with their carriages near major around the city centre. green button to open the door.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 273
Cycling
Andalucian Cycling
Experience
∑ andaluciancycling
experience.com
Bici 4 City
∑ bici4city.com
SEVICI
∑ sevici.es
Bicycles lined up ready for hire at SEVICI docking stations, Seville
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274 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Almería (cont.) Autumn in Andalusia 40
main entries restaurants 236 AVE (Tren de Alta Velocidad
Almería (province) see Granada Española) 266, 267
A and Almería Averroes of Córdoba 51
Abd al Rahman I 50 Almohads The Axarquia 185
Alcazaba (Málaga) 185 architecture 26 Ayamonte 130
Mezquita (Córdoba) 148 Moorish Conquest 50, 51 Ayuntamiento (Arcos de la
Abd al Rahman II 50, 148 Reconquest 52 Frontera) 179
Abd al Rahman III 50–51 Almonte Ayuntamiento (Carmona) 136–7
Alcazaba (Almería) 206 restaurants 230 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 29, 78–9,
Córdoba 146 Almoravids 50, 51 110
Medina Azahara 142–3 Almuñécar 193 Azulejos 26, 80
Abul Hasan, Sultan 202 festivals 41
Accommodation see Hotels Álora 182 B
Acero, Vicente de 204 Las Alpujarras 15, 54, 189, 200– Babaloo Beach 37
Acinipo 179 201 Baelo Claudia 173
Addresses, Spanish 263 Las Alpujarras tour 204–5 Baena 151
Admission charges 254–5 Amadeo, King 57 festivals 38
Aguilar 151 American Legation (Tangier) 175 Baetica 48
Air sports 249, 251 Al Andalus 50–51 Baeza 15, 156–7
Air travel 264–5 Andújar 155 hotels 217
Airlines 264, 265 festivals 38 restaurants 231
Airports 264–5 Animals see Wildlife Street-by-street map 156–7
Alameda de Hércules (Seville) 13, Añora 143 Bailén
92 Antequera 14, 183 Battle of (1808) 57
Alba, Dukes of 90, 209 Antiques shops 241 restaurants 231
Albaicín (Granada) Apéritifs 227 Baixeres, Dionisio
Street-by-Street map 196–7 Apes, Gibraltar 177 The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Alcalá de Guadaíra Aposeosis de Santo Tomás de 50–51
hotels 217 Aquino (Zurbarán) 71 El Balcón de Europa (Nerja) 184
Alcalá la Real 154 Aquariums: Banderilleros 31
Alfonso VIII, King 155 Aquarium (Roquetas de Mar) Banking 260–61
Alfonso X the Wise, King 208 Baños del Alcázar Califales
Arcos de la Frontera 179 Selwo Marina (Benalmádena) (Córdoba) 144, 146
Cantigas 52 246, 247 Baños Arabes (Jaén) 152
Iglesia de Santa Ana (Seville) Aracena 130 Baños de la Encina 125, 155
107 hotels 217 El Bañuelo (Granada) 195, 197
Iglesia de Santa María de la Arches, Moorish 27 Baras, Sara 33
Oliva (Lebrija) 136 Archez 185 Barbate 172–3
Medina Sidonia 172 Archidona 183 Baroque architecture 29
Reconquest 52 Architecture Los Barrios
sign of Seville 79 azulejos 26, 80 restaurants 234
Alfonso XI, King 146 early 20th century 59 Bartolomé de Jaén, Maestro
Alfonso XII, King 57 Moorish 26–7 Baeza Cathedral screen 157
Alfonso XIII, King 58 Moorish Revival 58 Capilla Real (Granada) 194
Hotel Alfonso XIII (Seville) 100 Patios of Córdoba 150 Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda)
Algeciras Post-Moorish 28–9 158
festivals 39 Sevillian bell towers 94–5 Capilla de San Andrés (Jaén)
restaurants 232 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, 76, 153
Alhama de Granada 192 84–5 Basílica de la Macarena (Seville)
Alhambra (Granada) 125, 190, Arcos de la Frontera 13, 124, 178, 13, 93
198–9 179 Baza 204–5
architecture 27 hotels 218 festivals 40
Generalife 202 restaurants 232 Beaches 36–7
Patio de los Leones 199 El Arenal (Seville) 67–73 Beato de Liébana 50
Puerta de la Justicia 44 area map 67 Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo 102
Aljaraque hotels 216 Bed and breakfast 214–15
restaurants 230 restaurants 228 Beer 226
Almería 15, 189, 206–7 Street-by-street map 68–9 Belalcázar 143
festivals 39, 43 Arévalo, Luis de 195 Belalcázar, Sebastián de 143
hotels 219 Arts and crafts shops 241 Bell towers, Seville 94–5
map 207 ATMs 260 Bélmez 142
GENERAL INDEX 275
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280 GENERAL INDEX
Martínez, Ginés 157 Montañes, Juan Martínes (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Matadors 30–31 Iglesia del Salvador (Seville) 79 Centro de Interpretación
Matalascañas 133 St John the Baptist 94 Cuevas de Guadix (Guadix) 204
restaurants 231 statue of (Seville) 79 Centro de Recepción e
Mazagón 132 Montefrío 192 Interpretación de la Naturaleza
hotels 217 Montes de Málaga 185 (Parque Natural de Cazorla,
Mecina Bombaron Montilla 151 Segura y las
hotels 219 Montoro 143 Villas) 160
Medical treatment 259 Montpensier, Dukes of 100 Centro del Vino Condado de
Medina Azahara 27, 50, 51, Moors 21–2, 45, 50–51 Huelva (El Condado) 133
142–3 Las Alpujarras uprisings 54 Convento de Santa Paula
Medina Sidonia 172 architecture 26–7 (Seville) 94
Medina Sidonia, Duchess of 60 azulejos 26, 80 Dar El Makhzen (Tangier) 174
Medina Sidonia, Dukes of 134, 172 expulsion from Spain 54, 55 Gibraltar Museum (Gibraltar)
Medinaceli, Dukes of 81 Granada 194 177
Melilla 175 Reconquest 52–3 Museo de Alfarería (Guadix) 204
Mena, Pedro de 194 Morocco 174–5 Museo de Almería 207
Mendoza, Rodrigo de 203 travel to 265 Museo Arqueológico (Baza) 205
Menus 220–21 Moros y Cristianos (Válor) 40 Museo Arqueológico (Córdoba)
Merimée, Prosper 57, 100 Mosaics 147
Mesa, Juan de 94 azulejos 80 Museo Arqueológico (Granada)
Metropol Parasol 95 Roman 48 195, 197
Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 124, 138, Mosques Museo Arqueológico (Málaga)
145, 148–9 Grand Mosque (Tangier) 174 185
Mijas Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 138, Museo Arqueológico (Seville)
hotels 218 145, 148–9 13, 101, 103
restaurants 235 Motorways 270–71 Museo Arqueológico (Úbeda)
Millán, Gómez 93 Motril 159
Los Millares 46, 47, 207 hotels 219 Museo Arqueológico Cueva de
Minas de Riotinto 130 restaurants 237 Siete Palacíos (Almuñécar) 193
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada) Moulay Ismail, Sultan 174 Museo de Artes y Costumbres
195 Mountain refuges 214, 215 Populares (Seville) 13, 101, 103
Miró, Joan 187 Movies see Film Museo del Baile Flamenco
Mobile phones 262, 263 Mudéjar architecture 26, 28, 52 (Seville) 79
Moguer 132 azulejos 80 Museo de Bellas Artes
Mojácar 15, 209 Muhammad V, Caliph 198, 199 (Córdoba) 146
hotels 219 Mulhacén 25, 203 Museo de Bellas Artes
Molina, Tirso de 73 Murallas (Seville) 94 (Granada) 195
Monachil Murallas de San Carlos (Cádiz) 170 Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville)
hotels 219 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 70, 12, 66, 70–71
Monasteries and convents 110, 146, 168 Museo de Cádiz (Cádiz) 168–9
Convento de la Merced Calzada baptism 72 Museo Carmen Thyssen
(Seville) 70 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) (Málaga) 13, 14, 184, 185
Convento de Santa Clara 69, 73 Museo del Grabado
(Seville) 92 Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 85 Contemporáneo (Marbella) 187
Convento de Santa Inés (Seville) Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84 Museo Hispano-Musulman
95 Santa Justa and Santa Rufina (Granada) 195
Convento de Santa Paula 106 Museo Julio Romero de Torres
(Seville) 91, 94 Seville Cathedral 83 (Córdoba) 146
Monasterio de la Cartuja La Virgen de la Servilleta 71 Museo de la Legión (Cueta)
(Granada) 29, 195 Young Beggar 55 175
Monasterio de la Rábida 131 Museums and galleries Museo Minero (Riotinto) 130
Monasterio de San Clemente admission charges 254–5 Museo de Picasso (Málaga) 13,
(Seville) 92 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, 14, 184, 185
Monasterio de Santa Clara 84–5 Museo Provincial (Huelva) 131
(Moguer) 132 La Atalaya Theme Centre (Jerez Museo Provincial (Jaén) 153
Monasterio de Santa María de de la Frontera) 166 Museo de Zenobia y Juan
las Cuevas (Seville) 109 Casa Museo de Martín Alonso Ramón Jiménez (Moguer) 132
Real Monasterio de Santa Clara Pinzón (Palos de la Frontera) 132 opening hours 255
(Jaén) 153 Casa Natal de Picasso (Málaga) Palacio de Nájera (Antequera)
Santa Isabel (Seville) 94 184, 185 183
Money 260–61 Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla) Music
Montañes, Juan Martínes 160 festivals 38–43
Convento de Santa Clara Centro Andaluz de Arte flamenco 32–3, 244, 247
(Seville) 92 Contemporáneo (Seville) 109 folk 245
GENERAL INDEX 281
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Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people Sevilla de Junta de Andalucía and other departments of the Junta
whose contributions and assistance have made this book possible. de Andalucía. Particular thanks also to: Javier Morata, Jose Luis de
Andrés de Colsa and Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas at Acanto
Main Contributors Arquitectura y Urbanismo, Madrid; Juan Fernández at Aguilar for
David Baird, resident in Andalusia from 1971 to 1995, has written his helpful comments; Robert op de Beek at Alvear, Montilla;
many articles and books on Spain, including Inside Andalusia. Francisco Benavent at Fundación Andaluza de Flamenco, Jerez
Martin Symington is a travel journalist and author who has de la Frontera; staff at the Locutorio, Granada; Paul Montegrifo;
written extensively on Spain. He is a regular contributor to Amanda Corbett at Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Sevilla;
The Daily Telegraph and also worked on the Eyewitness Travel José Pérez de Ayala at the Parque Nacional de Doñana; Gabinete
Guide to Great Britain. de Prensa, RENFE, Sevilla; Graham Hines and Rachel Taylor at
Nigel Tisdall, contributor to the Eyewitness Travel Guide to France, the Sherry Institute of Spain, London; Dr David Stone; Joaquín
is the author of many travel publications, including the Insight Sendra at Turismo Andaluz SA; 6 Toros 6 magazine, Madrid.
Pocket Guide to Seville.
Photography Permissions
Additional Contributors The publisher would like to thank all those who gave permission
Louise Cook, Josefina Fernández, Adam Hopkins, Nick Inman, to photograph at various ayuntamientos, cathedrals, churches,
Janet Mendel, Steve Miller, Javier Gómez Morata, Clara Villanueva, galleries, hotels, museums, restaurants, shops, transport services
John Gill, Mari Nicholson. and other establishments too numerous to thank individually.
Additional Illustrations
Richard Bonson, Louise Boulton, Brian Cracker, Roy Flooks, Picture Credits
Jared Gilbey, Paul Guest, Christian Hook, Mike Lake, Maltings a = above; b = below; c = centre; f = far; l = left; r = right; t = top.
Partnership, John Woodcock.
Additional Cartography Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of the
James Anderson, DK Cartography, Uma Bhattacharya, Mohammed following copyright holders: (c) Suceesion Picasso/ DACS, London
Hassan, Jasneet Kaur. 2006 56clb; DACS, London 2011 58cb; © Patrimonio Nacional
Revisions and Relaunch Team Madrid: 51ca, 54bl.
Asad Ali, Ashwin Raju Adimari, Emma Anacootee, Lynnette Photos taken with the assistance of Al-andalus, Casa-museo Fg
McCurdy Bastida, Claire Baranowski, Marta Bescos, Francisco Lorca, Fuentevaqueros, Granada: 199b; Teatro de la Maestranza,
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Hazarika, Tim Hollis, Claire Jones, Rahul Kumar, Vincent Kurien, companies and picture libraries for permission to reproduce their
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Dyk, Nikhil Verma, Word on Spain. 47cr, 48ca; Cathedral, Seville, San Isidoro y San Leandro, Ignacio de
Ries (17th century) 49crb; Universidad de Barcelona, La Corte de
Index Abderramán, Dionisio Baixeres (1885) 50cr–51cl; 51tc, 51bl, 52bc,
Helen Peters. 52br, 53bl, 54bl; Museo Naval Madrid, Retrato de Magallanes,
54br; 56cl; Casón del Buen Retiro, La Rendición de Bailén, J Casado
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(d); 59ca; © DACS 1996 Museo Nacional d el Teatro, Almagro,
Photographic and Artwork Reference Ciudad Real, poster “Yerma” (FG Lorca) by José Caballero y Juan
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the Area de Cultura del Ayuntamiento, Málaga; Tere González 53c; JD Dallet 46clb; Dulevant 54clb; J Lorman 37ca; M Ángeles
at Oficina de Turismo, Ayuntamiento, Cádiz; and staff at Castillo Sánchez 42t; Sevillano 43tr; Alamy images: age fotostock
San Marcos, El Puerto de Santa María, Itálica, Seville cathedral 169br; Jerónimo Alba 210-11; dbimages/Allen Brown 272cla,
and the Museo Bellas Artes, Seville. blickwinkel 249br; Luis Dafos 200-1; Danita Delimont/ Alan Klehr
175tr; David Sanger Photography/ Sam Bloomberg-Rissman
Special Assistance 173tl; Kathy deWitt 111cr; Mark Eveleigh 170tr; fine art 262cb;
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the regional and local HelloWorld Images Premium 11br; Rolf Hicker Photography 104;
tourist offices, ayuntamientos and diputaciones in Andalusia for imageBROKER 42cl; Jose Antonio Jimenez 173br; Jon Arnold
their valuable help, and especially the Oficina de Turismo de Images/ Jon Arnold 110cla; John Kellerman 2-3; Chris Knapton
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248bl; Lightworks Media 249tr; Melvyn Longhurst 171tc; Stefano JCDecaux Spain: 273bl; Pablo Juliá, Seville: 245br.
Politi Markovina 12tc; Barry Mason 250br; Rod McLean 68; Anthony King: 25tr.
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Michael Jenner 223cl; Pascal Saez 260bl; SAS 182tc; Carmen 86br, 169tc, 246c, 258clb, 272tr; Neil Lukas: 134clb, 134bc.
Sedano 249cl; Alex Segre 225tr; Gordon Sinclair 170bl; 170cla; Arxiu Mas, Barcelona: 30br; Museo Taurino, Madrid, poster for
Peter Howard Smith 256tr; image broker/Karl Heinz Spremberg a bullfight featuring Rodolfo Gaona, H Colmenero 31bl; 49tc, 52c,
263tl, Trigger Image 108tr; Renaud Visage 222cla; Ben Welsh 52cr–53cl; Museo América, Madrid, View of Seville, Sánchez Coello
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219tr; Bridgeman Art Library/Index: The Life and Times of Don Oronoz Archivo Fotográfico, Madrid: 30cla, 168tr; Private
Quixote y Saavedra (1608), Biblioteca Universidad Barcelona 55cb. Collection Reyes Presidiendo a una Corrida de Toros (1862),
Casa Grande: 218tc; Casa Juan: 236b; Casa Juanito: 231tr; Anonymous 31br, 46b, 47tl, 47ca, 47cl, 47crb, 47br, 47tl, 49tl;
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Rock 24tr, 34tr, 34cl, 35cr, 35br, 163; Cerámica Santa Ana: 239c; de la Alhambra, Manuel Gómez Moreno 53clb; 54cla; Museo del
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Konrad Wothe 161crb; Colegas: 256bl; Dee Conway: 33cr; Prado, Expulsión de los Moriscos, Vicent Carducho 55c (d); Musée
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Collection 8-9; Calle Montes 138; Sylvain Sonnet 66; Giancarlo Patrimonio Nacional Madrid, Palacio Real, Riofrio, Segovia, Carlos III
Costa, Milan: 31bc (d), 45b. JD Dallet, Málaga: 22bl, 36clb, Vestido de Cazador, F Liani 56bl; © DACS London 1996, Sternberg
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Tupungato 122-3; Asier Villafranca 14bl; Agencia EFE, Madrid: Cuba 58br; 59crb, 59bl, 61tc, 76bl, 87bl, 147tr; Private Collection,
60clb, 60b, 61bl, 61cr; Egaña Oriza: 229tl; Empresa Pública de Madrid, Patio Andaluz, Garcia Rodríguez 150cl; Museo de Bellas
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Roland Grant Archive: “For a Few Dollars More”, United Artists Sonsoles Prada 47crb.
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images:Jean du Boisberranger 111tl; Patrick Frilet 250tl; Bertrand 256c; Tony Stone Images: Robert Everts 86cla.
Gardel 111bl; Hervé Hughes 111crb; Stefano Torrione 172cra; Visions of Andalucía Slide Library, Málaga: M Almarza 25cr;
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Phrase Book
In Emergency more más mahs
less menos meh-nohs
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh
Stop! ¡Pare! pah-reh
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon Shopping
médico! meh-dee-koh
Call an ambulance! ¡Llame a una yah-meh ah oonah How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
ambulancia! ahm-boo-lahn- does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
thee-ah I would like … Me gustaría … meh goos-tah-ree-ah
Call the police! ¡Llame a la yah-meh ah lah Do you have? ¿Tienen? tee-yeh-nehn
policía! poh-lee-thee-ah I’m just Sólo estoy soh-loh ehs-toy
Call the fire brigade! ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs looking. mirando, gracias. mee-rahn-doh
bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs grah-thee-ahs
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah Do you take ¿Aceptan ah-thehp-tahn
telephone? teléfono más ehl teh-leh-foh-noh credit cards? tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs deh
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- crédito? kreh-dee-toh
moh What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah do you open? abren? ah-brehn
hospital? hospital más ehl ohs-pee-tahl What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- do you close? cierran? thee-yehr-rahn
moh This one. Este ehs-teh
That one. Ese eh-seh
expensive caro kahr-oh
Communication Essentials cheap barato bah-rah-toh
size, clothes talla tah-yah
Yes Sí see size, shoes número noo-mehr-oh
No No noh white blanco blahn-koh
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr black negro neh-groh
Thank you Gracias grah-thee-ahs red rojo roh-hoh
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Hello Hola oh-lah green verde vehr-deh
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs blue azul ah-thool
Good night Buenas noches bweh-nahs noh- antique shop la tienda de lah tee-yehn-dah
chehs antigüedades deh ahn-tee-gweh-
Morning La mañana lah mah-nyah-nah dah-dehs
Afternoon La tarde lah tahr-deh bakery la panadería lah pah-nah-deh
Evening La tarde lah tahr-deh ree-ah
Yesterday Ayer ah-yehr bank el banco ehl bahn-koh
Today Hoy oy book shop la librería lah lee-breh-ree-ah
Tomorrow Mañana mah-nya-nah butcher la carnicería lah kahr-nee-theh-
Here Aquí ah-kee ree-ah
There Allí ah-yee cake shop la pastelería lah pahs-teh-leh-
What? ¿Qué? keh ree-ah
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh chemist la farmacia lah fahr-mah-
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh thee-ah
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh fishmonger la pescadería lah pehs-kah-deh-
ree-ah
greengrocer la frutería lah froo-teh-ree-ah
Useful Phrases grocery la tienda de lah tee-yehn-dah
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah comestibles deh koh-mehs-
usted? oos-tehd tee-blehs
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-yehn hairdresser la peluquería lah peh-loo-keh-ree-ah
thank you. gracias. grah-thee-ahs market el mercado ehl mehr-kah-doh
Pleased to Encantado de ehn-kahn-tah-doh newsagent el kiosko ehl kee-yohs-koh
meet you. conocerle. deh koh-noh- de prensa deh prehn-sah
thehr-leh post office la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
See you soon. Hasta pronto. ahs-tah prohn-toh correos deh kohr-reh-ohs
That’s fine. Está bien. ehs-tah bee-yehn shoe shop la zapatería lah thah-pah-teh-
Where is/are …? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs- ree-ah
está/están …? tah/ehs-tahn supermarket el supermercado ehl soo-pehr-mehr-
How far is it to …? Cuántos metros/ kwahn-tohs meh- kah-doh
kilómetros hay trohs/kee-loh- tobacconist el estanco ehl ehs-tahn-koh
de aquí a …? meh-trohs travel agent la agencia de lah ah-hehn-thee-ah
eye deh ah-kee ah viajes deh vee-ah-hehs
Which ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh
way to …? se va a …? seh vah ah
Do you speak ¿Habla ah-blah
Sightseeing
English? inglés? een-glehs art gallery el museo de arte ehl moo-seh-oh
I don’t understand No comprendo noh deh ahr-teh
kohm-prehn-doh cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh-drahl
Could you ¿Puede pweh-deh church la iglesia lah ee-gleh-see-yah
speak slowly hablar ah-blahr la basílica lah bah-see-lee-kah
please? más despacio mahs dehs-pah- garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen
por favor? thee-oh library la biblioteca lah bee-blee-yoh-
pohr fah-vohr teh-kah
I’m sorry. Lo siento. loh see-ehn-toh museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh
tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
information información deh een-fohr-mah-
Useful Words office turística cee-yohn
big grande grahn-deh too-rees-tee-kah
small pequeño peh-keh-nyoh town hall el ayuntamiento ehl ah-yoon-tah-
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh mee-yehn-toh
cold frío free-oh closed for cerrado por thehr-rah-doh pohr
good bueno bweh-noh holiday vacaciones vah-kah-cee-
bad malo mah-loh yoh-nehs
enough bastante bahs-tahn-teh bus station la estación de lah ehs-tah-ee-yohn
well bien bee-yehn autobuses deh owtoh-
open abierto ah-bee-ehr-toh boo-sehs
railway la estación lah ehs-tah-thee-
closed cerrado thehr-rah-doh
station de trenes ohn deh treh-nehs
left izquierda eeth-key-ehr-dah
right derecha deh-reh-chah
straight on todo recto toh-doh rehk-toh Staying in a Hotel
near cerca thehr-kah
far lejos leh-hohs Do you ¿Tiene tee-yeh-neh
up arriba ah-ree-bah have una oo-nah
down abajo ah-bah-hoh a vacant habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
early temprano tehm-prah-noh room? libre? yohn lee-breh
late tarde tahr-deh double habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah room doble yohn doh-bleh
exit salida sah-lee-dah with double con cama de kohn kah-mah deh
toilet lavabos, lah-vah-bohs bed matrimonio mah-tree-moh-
servicios sehr-vee-thee-ohs nee-oh
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288 PHRASE BOOK