DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Seville & Andalusia, Revised Edition

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com
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SEVILLE
& ANDALUSIA
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SEVILLE
& ANDALUSIA
www.ebook3000.com
Contents
How to Use this Guide 6
Project Editor Anna Streiffert

Art Editor Robert Purnell
Editors Marcus Hardy, Jane Oliver
Designers Malcolm Parchment, Katie Peacock
Picture Research Monica Allende, Naomi Peck
DTP Designers Samantha Borland, Sarah Martin
Main Contributors
David Baird, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall
Photographers
Neil Lukas, John Miller, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas
Bible illustration in Moorish style
(Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Steven Gyapay,
dating from the 10th century
Claire Littlejohn, Maltings, Chris Orr, John Woodcock
Printed and bound in China

Introducing
First published in Great Britain in 1996
Seville and
by Dorling Kindersley Limited Andalusia
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Discovering Seville
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
and Andalusia 10
Reprinted with Revisions 1997, 1998, 1999,
2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 Putting Seville and
Copyright © 1996, 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Andalusia on
A Penguin Random House Company
the Map 16
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, A Portrait of Andalusia 20
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner.
Andalusia Through
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
the Year 38
ISBN 978-0-2411-8924-5
The History of
Seville and
Andalusia 44
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Horse and carriage at Plaza de

Front cover main image: Plaza de España in the Parque María Luisa, Seville España, Parque María Luisa
Magnificent domed ceiling of the Museo de Bellas Artes, Seville
Zahara de la Sierra, one of Andalusia’s traditional pueblos blancos (white towns)
Seville Córdoba and Jaén 138 Survival Guide

Area by Area
Cádiz and Málaga 162 Practical
Seville at a Glance 64 Information 254
Granada and Almería 188
El Arenal 66
Travellers’ Needs
Santa Cruz 74
Where to Stay 212
Where to Mixed green olives

Eat and Drink 220
Shops and Markets 238 Travel

Information 264
Entertainment
in Andalusia 244 General Index 274
Outdoor Activities and Phrase Book 287

Tiled street sign for Plaza de Specialist Holidays 248
San Francisco, Estepona
La Macarena 88
Parque María Luisa 96
Across The River 104
A Guided Walk 110
Seville Street Finder 112
Andalusia
Area by Area
Andalusia at
a Glance 124
Huelva and
Sevilla 126
The Generalife
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6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from describe the important sights, with
your stay in Seville and Andalusia. It provides maps, pictures and detailed illustrations.
both expert recommendations and detailed Suggestions on what to eat and drink,
practical information. Introducing Seville accommodation, shopping and entertainment
and Andalusia maps the region and sets it are in Travellers’ Needs, and the Survival
in its historical and cultural context. Seville Guide has tips on everything from
Area by Area and Andalusia Area by Area transport to using public telephones.
Seville Area by Area SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 75
SANTA CRUZ All pages relating to central

The centre of Seville has been The Barrio de Santa Cruz, Seville’s old Jewish
quarter, is a warren of white alleys and patios
Esteban Murillo lived here in the 17th century
while his contemporary, Juan de Valdés Leal, Seville have red thumb tabs.
divided into four sightseeing that has long been the most picturesque
corner of the city. Many of the best-known
sights are grouped here: the cavernous
decorated the Hospital de los Venerables
with fine Baroque frescoes.
Further north, busy Calle de las Sierpes is
Gothic cathedral with its landmark Giralda; one of Seville’s favourite shopping streets.
areas. Across the River makes the splendid Real Alcázar with the royal
palaces and lush Jardines del Alcázar; and
the Archivo de Indias, whose documents
Its adjacent market squares, such as the
charming Plaza del Salvador, provided
backdrops for Cervantes’ stories. Nearby,
up a fifth area. Each area has tell of Spain’s exploration and conquest of
the New World.
Spreading northeast from these great
the ornate façades and interiors of the
Ayuntamiento and the Casa de Pilatos, a
gem of Andalusian architecture, testify to
Sights at a Glance
its own chapter, which opens monuments is an enchanting maze of
whitewashed streets. The artist Bartolomé
the great wealth and artistry that flowed
into the city in the 16th century.
lists the chapter’s sights by
category: Churches, Museums
with a list of the sights LAR AÑA
IMA
GEN
JUAN DE
MESA JAU
AR
REG
UI
DIEG
O
MER DE
Sights at a Glance
and Galleries, Historic Buildings,

CUNA
CA AP LO Gardens
A
PL SAN LL ILE
NDIG
GO JOSE LUIS PEDRO E S

AZA
A
YE LUQUE
2 Calle Sierpes
JIAS
FRAN
LL
NE
TA
described. All the sights are

DO
E
ALHO
CALLE VELAZ
PLAZA 4 Iglesia del Salvador

NEGRO
O ME
SA
OS
CRISTO DE
CALLE DE RECARE
CAL
NT
PEREZ
BURGOS
8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
LOS NAVARR
Streets and Plazas, etc.

IA
LAGAR
LE S
SC
CA 9 Plaza del Triunfo

CONDE
A
O
CA LL
LINEROS
CI
CUNA
NZ
IERP
E
DOS
L LE LA
N
I
B O TERO e Jardines de Murillo
RA
S F CA
GAL
M
ES
RIA
Q
numbered and plotted on an

PE
A LL LE
RO
LLE DE
UEZ T
CA
RI
Churches
RE
A AL
ER
AL
SAGASTPL DEL HUELVA FA

OD
IZA
LFA
SALVADOR CAL
CA
L E AGUILAS 7 Seville Cathedral and

S
ETUAN
VILLEGAS
Y
MANUEL SAN
E
ESTE
L R
La Giralda pp82–3
LIR
CORTINA
VIRGENES
BA
ISIDOR N
A NCOS
CALLE SAN
DE
CALLE ALVAREZ Q U IN
MUÑ
IO
O
COS
O
RI
MAR R
Historic Buildings
Area Map. The detailed

D
VI
M
E DE IBAR
L
OZ
ND
RA
RA
RES
R CO
E
LE DE FR
CO
PA
1 Palacio de Lebrija
Y
LL
B ON
CA
ADO
PL DE SAN
3 Ayuntamiento
FEDERICO
FRANCISCO PL DE LAS
RUBIO
SA N
CA
PL ZURR
MERCEDARIAS
A
IN
VIE DE
LL
AV D A D E
CAL
5 Museo del Baile Flamenco

HERN O N
E AI
YO
ES
OL
LE LLE
S
COL
RE
TERO
JOS
AD
CA
DE 6 Casa de Pilatos
LA
information for each sight is

ANDO
E GU
OT
C A L L E AB
EL ZM
ES
E
RG BU AN
ED
0 Archivo de Indias
PE
EN
SP
FA
O
A
BIO
LA CONST
SA
CE
L
q Real Alcázar pp86–7
NT
AN
ETO
OS
A
ALEMANES GE
A
GO
ER
LE
w Hospital de los Venerables
M
CU
EZ
S O
1
AR
PL VIRGEN
CH
GA
AR
Area Map For easy reference,

CIS
OY
ÍA
DE LOS REYES EOS EN

ND
MAT
C
DE UC
LA
presented in numerical order,

ITU
EZ ES LA CA
EN S
B
NC
NE
XIM
CION
TA
A
TER
ME
ESA
PLAZA DEL PLAZA

TRIUNFO PL REFINADORES
DOÑA Restaurants pp228–9
the sights are numbered and

ELVIRA PLAZA
DE
ALFARO 1 Albarama
thereby making it easy to

JUD
Archivo JARDINES
UA DE MURILLO 2 La Albahaca
ERI
de Indias AG
A
3 Berrecita
LL
PLAZA
CONTRATACION 4 Casa Plácido
located on a map. The sights

CA
5 Casa Robles
locate within the chapter.

JARDINES DEL
ALCÁZAR 6 Corral del Agua
Puerta
PUERTA de Jerez 7 Don Raimundo
DE JEREZ
8 Doña Elvira
CA LLE
SAN
FER
NA ND
O PL DON
JUAN DE
AUSTRIA
9
10
11
Egaña Santo
El Giraldillo
El Modesto
are also shown on the Street
12 Oriza
A locator map shows where

13
14
15
San Marco
Santa Cruz
Vineria San Telmo
Finder on pages 116–21.
you are in relation to other
areas of the city centre.
0 metres 400
See also Street Finder
maps 1, 4, 6 0 yards 400
Baths of Doña María de Padilla, beneath the Patio del Crucero, in the Real Alcázar For map symbols see back flap
76 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA EL ARENAL 77
Street-by-Street: Santa Cruz Calle Mateos Gago

This street is filled with souvenir shops
LA MACARENA
and tapas bars. Bar Giralda at No. 2, with

The maze of narrow streets to the east of Seville cathedral vaults that are the remains of a Moorish EL ARENAL SANTA CRUZ
and the Real Alcázar represents Seville at its most romantic bath, is particularly popular for its wide
and compact. As well as the expected souvenir shops, variety of tapas (see pp224–5).
Gua
tapas bars and strolling guitarists, there are plenty of

da
lq
picturesque alleys, hidden plazas and flower-decked

ui
vir
patios to reward the casual wanderer. Once a Jewish

ghetto, its restored buildings, with characteristic window Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 5–6
grilles, are now a harmonious mix of up-market 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
2 Street-by-Street Map residences and tourist accommodation. Good bars Horse carriages line this plaza which
and restaurants make the area well worth a visit. has an early 20th-century fountain
by José Lafita. Plaza Santa Cruz is
adorned by an ornate
This gives a bird’s-eye Palacio Arzobispal, the

18th-century Archbishop’s Palace,
MESON DEL MORO iron cross from 1692.
SO
is still used by Seville’s clergy. AN

CI
S
EN
TA T
ER
view of the heart of each GA

GO
EN
EZ E
SA
M
M AT E
OS XI
RO
Convento de la
sightseeing area.
A
DR
Encarnación (see p84) AZ

PL
IGO CAR
JA
UZ
LO
O
M
OS CR
PE
ER
IN
RE E S TA
DA
RU
O
AV
NA
E
EN
D
A
IDA
DE
R IA
LO
JU
L A CO NS
G
ST
BE
IN
RU
O
U
A suggested route for a walk

M
DE
w . Hospital
O
A
T
NE
Ñ
ER
UA
ITU
O
D IR A
M
VE
de los Venerables
AG
RO
P L LV
CIO
L This 17th-century
P IM
E
DE
SU
covers the more interesting

N
home for elderly priests

SO
N
IE
NT
E JO
NA
has a splendidly restored

LL
A
CA Baroque church.
streets in the area.

V ID
A
7 . Seville Cathedral
and La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral AS
M
and its Moorish bell tower are TO Callejón del Agua
A
O
AR
Seville’s most popular sights. NT This alley alongside

SA
AÑ
the Alcázar walls offers

M
enchanting glimpses
UEL
into plant-filled patios.

MIG
Washington Irving
(see p57) stayed at No. 2.
9 Plaza
del Triunfo
A Baroque
column celebrates
84 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA S A N TA C R U Z 85
the city’s survival of
0 metres 50
the great arthquake q . Real Alcázar 0 yards 50

of 1755. Opposite Seville’s Royal Palaces are a
In the0
Archivo de Indias is a modern statue rewarding combination of
is honoured by a Baroque president, and the extensive sacristy, the ceiling has an
Built in the 16th century as a merchants’ exchange, of the Immaculate exquisite Mudéjar (see p28) Key
column beside the Archivo de correspondence of Felipe II. The effective trompe l’oeil depicting
the Archive of the Indies now houses documents Conception. craftmanship, regal grandeur and
Indias. In the centre of the Plaza vast collection amounts to some The Triumph
relating of
to the
theCross by colonization
Spanish Juan of the Americas. beautifully landscaped gardens. Suggested route
del Triunfo a monument comm- 86 million handwritten pages de Valdés Leal.
emorates Seville’s belief in the and 8,000 maps and drawings. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp216–19 and pp228–37
Immaculate Conception. An extensive programme of
In Calle Santo Tomás, off the document digitization is ongoing. e Jardines
southeastern corner of the Plaza Visitors to the Archivo de de Murillo
del Triunfo, lies a building used Indias climb marble stairs to Map 4 D2 (6 E5).
by the Archivo de Indias. library rooms where drawings
Formerly the Museo de Arts and maps are exhibited in a These formal gardens at the
Contemporáneo – now in the reverential atmosphere. Displays southern end of the Barrio de
Monasterio de Santa Mariá de change on a regular basis; one Santa Cruz once used to be
las Cuevas (see p109) – the
building is no longer open to
the public. Dating from 1770 it
might include a watercolour
map from the days when the
city of Acapulco was little more
orchards and vegetable plots
in the grounds of the Real
Alcázar. They were donated to
Stars indicate the sights
was once a barn where tithes than a castle, drawings the city in 1911. Their name
collected by the Church were
stored. Parts of the Moorish city
recording a royal corrida
(bullfight) held in Panama City
commemorates Seville’s best-
known painter, Bartolomé Monument to Columbus in the
that no visitor should miss.
walls were uncovered during in 1748 or designs and plans for Murillo (1617–82), who lived Jardines de Murillo
the renovation of the building. a town hall in Guatemala. in nearby Calle Santa Teresa.
A long promenade, Paseo de above the garden’s palm trees is
Catalina de Ribera, pays tribute a monument to Columbus,
0 Archivo de Indias q Real Alcázar to the founder of the Hospital incorporating a bronze of the
Avda de la Constitución s/n. Map 3 C2 See pp86–7.
de las Cinco Llagas, which is Santa María, the caravel that
(6 D5). v Archivo de Indias.  Prado now the seat of the Parlamento bore him to the New World in
de San Sebastian. Tel 95 450 05 28. de Andalucía (see p93). Rising the year of 1492 (see p131).
Upper part of the Baroque doorway of the Palacio Arzobispal w Hospital de
Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–
2pm Sun. ∑ mcu.es/archivos los Venerables
8 Plaza Virgen de the square is the whitewashed
Plaza de los Venerables 8. Map 3 C2 (6
Convento de la Encarnación, D4). v Archivo de Indias. Tel 95 456
los Reyes
3 Detailed information
which was founded in 1591. 26 96. Open 10am–1:30pm, 4–7:30pm
Map 3 C2 (6 D4). Palacio Arzobispal The convent stands on grounds daily. & except Sun evening. 7 8
Closed to the public. Convento de la that have also been the site of
Encarnación Closed to the public. a mosque and of a hospital. Located in the heart of the
The perfect place to pause for

a while and admire the Giralda
The Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
was once home to the Corral de
los Olmos, a rogues’ inn which
Barrio de Santa Cruz, the
Hospital of the Venerables was
founded as a home for elderly
on each Sight
(see pp82–3), this plaza presents features in the writings of priests. It was begun in 1675
an archetypal Sevillian tableau:
horse-drawn carriages, orange
trees, gypsy flower-sellers and
Miguel de Cervantes (see p55) –
on one of the convent walls a
plaque bears an inscription
and completed around 20 years
later by Leonardo de Figueroa. It
was restored as a cultural centre
All the sights in Seville are
religious buildings. At its centre
is an early 20th-century
monumental lamppost and
fountain by José Lafita, with
testifying to this.
9 Plaza del Triunfo Façade of the Archivo de Indias by

by FOCUS (Fundación Fondo de
Cultura de Sevilla).
It is built around a central,
sunken patio. The upper floors,
described individually.
grotesque heads copied from
Roman originals in the Casa
de Pilatos (see p81).
Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
Lying between the cathedral

Juan de Herrera
The archive of the Indies punches

along with the infirmary and
the cellar, are used as galleries
for exhibitions. A separate
Addresses and practical
At the north of the square (see pp82–3) and the Real home Seville’s pre-eminent role in guided tour visits the hospital
is the Palacio Arzobispal
(Archbishop’s Palace), begun in
Alcázar (see pp86–7), the Plaza
del Triunfo was built to celebrate
the 16th century, finished in the the triumph of the city over an
the colonization and exploitation
of the New World. Built between
1584–98 to designs by Juan de
church, a showcase of Baroque
splendours, with frescoes by
Juan de Valdés Leal and his son
information are provided.
The key to the symbols used
18th, and commandeered by earthquake in 1755. The quake Herrera, co-architect of El Escorial Lucas Valdés.
Marshal Soult during the devastated the city of Lisbon, near Madrid, it was originally a Other highlights include the
Napoleonic occupation of over the border in Portugal, lonja (exchange), where sculptures of St Peter and St
1810 (see pp56–7). A fine but caused comparatively merchants traded. In 1785, Carlos Ferdinand by Pedro Roldán,
Baroque palace,
it has a jasper
staircase and
little damage
in Seville –
a salvation
III had all Spanish documents
relating to the “Indies” collected
under one roof, creating a
flanking the east door; and The
Apotheosis of St Ferdinand by
Lucas Valdés, top centre in the
in the information block is
paintings by attributed to fascinating archive. It contains retablo of the main altar. Its
Zurbarán and
Murillo. On the
opposite side of
Decorative Giralda relief on the
Archivo de Indias
the city’s great
devotion to the
Virgin Mary. She
letters from Columbus, Cortés,
Cervantes, and George
Washington, the first American
frieze (inscribed in Greek)
advises visitors to “Fear God and
Honour the Priest”. Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables
shown on the back flap.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp216–19 and pp228–37
ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA 139
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
CÓRDOBA
AND JAÉN
Andalusia Area by Area
Córdoba, with its magnificent mosque and pretty
Moorish patios, is northern Andalusia’s star attraction.
Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Moriles wine towns and
also Baroque treasures such as Priego de Córdoba. Jaén’s mountain passes are
gateways to the province’s beautiful Renaissance towns of Ubeda and Baeza,
and to the great wildlife reserves of the mountain ranges.
1 Introduction
The landscape, history
and character of each
In this book, Andalusia has been
Córdoba, on Andalusia’s great river
Guadalquivir, was a Roman provincial
capital over 2,000 years ago, but its
Running across the north of Córdoba and
Jaén provinces is the Sierra Morena. Deer
and boar shelter in the forest and scrub of region is described here, divided into four distinct regions,
golden age came with the Moors. In the
10th century it was the western capital
of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad
this broad mountain range. The sierras
dominate Jaén province. The great Río
Guadalquivir springs to life as a sparkling showing how the area each of which has a separate
in wealth, power and sophistication.
Today it is an atmospheric city, its ancient
quarters and buildings reflecting a long
trout stream in the Sierra de Cazorla, the
craggy wilderness along its eastern
border. Through the ages, mule trains, has developed over the chapter. The most interesting
and glorious history.
Córdoba’s surrounding countryside is
dotted with monuments to its Moorish
traders, highwaymen and armies have
used the cleft in Sierra Morena, known as
Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, to cross centuries and what it sights to visit have been
past – like the Caliph’s palace of Medina
Azahara. To the south lies the Campiña, an
undulating landscape covered in regiments
from La Mancha and Castilla to Andalusia.
Ancient castles perched on heights,
once strategic outposts on the Muslim/ offers the visitor today. numbered on a Regional Map.
of olives and vines, and green and gold Christian frontier, now overlook the
expanses of sunflowers and corn. Here peaceful olive groves punctuated by
and there are whitewashed villages and historic towns preserving gems of post-
hilltop castles with crumbling walls. Reconquest architecture.
140 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 141
Exploring Córdoba and Jaén Sights at a Glance

Each area of Andalusia has
2 Palma del Río y Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza
This region of rolling fields and craggy heights is divided by 3 Castillo de Almodóvar u Baños de la Encina
the fertile Guadalquivir valley. On the northern banks of the
river is Córdoba with its famous Mezquita. The wild, uninhabited
Sierra Morena lies to the north, while southward is a prosperous
del Río
4 Medina Azahara
5 Córdoba pp144–9
i La Carolina
o Desfiladero de Despeñaperros
p Baeza pp156–7
colour-coded thumb tabs.
farming area dotted with historic towns, such as Priego de 6 Montoro a Ubeda pp158–9
7 Montilla s Cazorla
Córdoba. Further east, amid the olive groves of Jaén, are the
8 Aguilar d Parque Natural de Cazorla,
Renaissance jewels, Baeza and Úbeda. From these towns it is
The city of Jaén with its cathedral in the foreground, as viewed from Castillo de Santa Catalina 9 Lucena Segura y Las Villas
an easy excursion to the nature reserve of Cazorla, which 0 Cabra f Segura de la Sierra
Córdoba cathedral and mosque offers dramatic scenery and a glimpse of deer and wild boar. q Baena
w Priego de Córdoba Tour
e Alcalá la Real 1 Sierra Morena The town of Cazorla on the border of the nature reserve
Main street of Cabra at siesta time r Jaén pp152–3
t Andújar
Belalcázar Santa
2 Regional Map
r
ja
Eufemia
Zú
This shows the main road

Hinojosa
del Duque R Gu
TOU ad
NA Torrecampo alm
RE ez Puertollano
MO Valdepeñas
RA Pedroche Embalse del
network and provides an

Añora Conquista
ER
Alcaracejos Guadalmena
SI Pozoblanco
DESFILADERO DE Puente de
DESPEÑAPERROS Siles
Peñarroya- Génave
Ján d u l a
Pueblonuevo a
én
Villanueva
r e n
illustrated overview of the
dal
Fuente
Bélmez de Córdoba
M o Beas de
SEGURA DE
Gua
Cardeña LA SIERRA
S i e r r a
Obejuna LA CAROLINA Segura
Santisteban
AS
Embalse del del Puerto

Espiel SANTUARIO VIRGEN Guadalén r Hornos
ma
LL
Embalse
whole region. All entries are

Navas de
ali
AS E
DE LA CABEZA
VI
de Rumblar BAÑOS DE
YL D
San Juan ad
Arquillos Gu Villanueva del
A RAL
Embalse de LA ENCINA Arzobispo Santiago de

Be
Villaviciosa Puente Nuevo la Espada

m
éz de Córdoba Bailén Villacarrillo

E G N AT U
b
ar Embalse del Linares Embalse del

Guadalmellato Tranco de Beas
numbered and there are also

UR
ANDÚJAR
C Ó R D O B A
LA UE
Adamuz
r
MONTORO
vi
Santo
ui
RQ
ÚBEDA
,S
alq
Embalse Tomé
Mengíbar BAEZA
ad
PA
del Bembézar Villa del Río
some useful tips on getting

Gu
Gu
OR
MEDINA Arjona a d a l quivir

Bujalance Peal de Becerro CAZORLA
CAZ
AZAHARA CÓRDOBA
Hornachuelos
Embalse
Porcuna J A É N
G ua
del Retortillo Jódar
around the region by car,

Posadas Quesada
di a
CASTILLO DE G ua
daj Mancha
na
ALMODÓVAR oz JAÉN Real

M
DEL RÍO Mágina

en
PALMA 2167m Huesa

or
bus and train.

DEL RÍO Castro del Río
La Carlota Martos
Fernán Núñez Espejo
Huelma
La Rambla BAENA
MONTILLA Valdepeñas
Sevilla Alcaudete de Jaén
Doña Mencía
Castillo de
Getting Around
Gu
AGUILAR Locubín
ad
A car is essential to explore the region

aj
CABRA
oz
ALCALÁ LA
REAL Key
fully. The main Autovía de Andalucía NIV
Puente LUCENA PRIEGO DE Granada (A4) follows the Guadalquivir valley. To the
Genil CÓRDOBA Motorway north of the valley public transport is
Embalse de
Cordobilla Rute Major road sparse, but there are frequent bus services
Granada
Minor road to the south. Córdoba is well served by
Benamejí trains, including the AVE high-speed train
Gen
Iznájar Scenic route

with fast connections to Seville, Madrid,
il
Main railway
Málaga and as far as Lleida. Jaén, however,
0 kilometres 20 Provincial border is not so well served, with only one direct
Málaga
Olive groves stretching across the countryside 0 miles 10 Summit train per day to Córdoba.
For additional map symbols see back flap
150 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 151
7 Montilla 9 Lucena
The Patios of Córdoba Córdoba. Road map C2. * 23,000. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 40,000.
3 Detailed information £ @ n Calle Capitan Alonso de @ n Castillo del Moral s/n (957 51
Since early times, family and social life in Andalusia have revolved around the courtyard Vargas 3 (957 65 23 54). ( Fri. 32 82). ( Wed. ∑ turlucena.com
or patio, which is at the heart of the classic Mediterranean house. The sleeping accom-
modation and living rooms were built round this space, which introduces air and light Montilla is the centre of an Lucena prospers from furniture
on each entry into the house. Brick arches, colourful tiles, ironwork, orange and lemon trees, and pots
full of flowers add to the charm of these cool and tranquil retreats. Córdoba takes pride
important wine-making region,
but one that finds it difficult to
emerge from the shadow of a
making and from its brass and
copper manufactures, and
produces interesting ceramics.
in all its patio gardens, be they palatial spaces in the grandest residences or tiny more famous rival. The excellent Under the caliphs of Córdoba
All the important towns and courtyards in humble homes, shared by many. There are traditional patios in the San
Lorenzo and Judería quarters and in Barrio San Basilio, west of the Mezquita.
white wine is made in the same
way as sherry (see pp34–5) and
tastes rather like it but, unlike
(see p50) it was an important
trading and intellectual centre,
with a dynamic, independent, Statue of Santo Domingo, Iglesia Santo
other places to visit are dealt Whitewashed

walls Tiled portrait of saint Orange trees
sherry, does not need fortifying
with alcohol. Some bodegas,
including Alvear and Pérez
Barquero, are happy to
Jewish community.
Iglesia de Santiago, with a
Baroque turret, was built on the
site of a synagogue in 1503.
Domingo in Cabra
also some noble mansions and

the Iglesia Santo Domingo with
with individually. They are welcome visitors.

The Mudéjar Convento de
Santa Clara dates from 1512
The Torre del Moral is the only
remaining part of a Moorish
castle. Granada’s last sultan,
a Baroque façade.
Just outside the town, the
Fuente del Río, source of
and the castle from the 18th Boabdil, was captured in 1483, the Río Cabra, is a pleasantly
listed in order, following the century. The town library is in

the Casa del Inca, so named
because Garcilaso de la Vega,
and imprisoned here. Nearby,
the 15th-century Iglesia de
San Mateo has a flamboyant
leafy spot in which to picnic.
who wrote about the Incas, Baroque sacristy and three q Baena
numbering given on the lived there in the 16th century.
 Bodega Alvear
naves with delicate arches.
On the first Sunday in May
Lucena stages an elaborate
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 20,000.
@ n Virrey del Pino 5 (957 67 17 57).
( Thu. ∑ baena.es
Regional Map. Within each Festival de los Patios, when scores of Avenida María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65 ceremony, which honours the
patios are thrown open to the public, 01 00. Open daily (call first to arrange Virgen de Araceli. Baena’s olive oil has been famed
takes place in early May (see pp42–3). visit). Closed Sun & public hols. since Roman times. At the top
The most beautifully decorated patio  Bodega Pérez Barquero of the whitewashed town is
town or city, there is detailed wins a prestigious prize.
Andalusian Patio
Avenida Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65 05
00. Open phone ahead to make an
appt, or e-mail info@perezbarquero.
0 Cabra
@ n Calle del Junquillo, s/n (957 52
Iglesia Santa María la Mayor.
On the Plaza de la Constitución
stands the handsome, modern
This scene, painted by García com. ∑ perezbarquero.com town hall. The Casa del Monte,
information on important Rodríguez (1863–1925), evokes a

style of patio that is still common
in Andalusia. The patio walls are
34 93). ( Mon. ∑ turismo.cabra.eu
Set amid fertile fields and vast

olive groves, Cabra was an
an arcaded mansion dating
from the 18th century, flanks
it on one side.
buildings and other sights. usually immaculately whitewashed, episcopal seat in the 3rd century. Easter week is spectacular,
contrasting with the colourful display On a rise stands the former castle, when thousands of drummers
of geraniums and carnations in which is now a school. There are take to the streets (see p38).
terracotta pots. Fragrant blooms of
jasmine add to the atmosphere.
The historic crest of the Bodega

Pérez Barquero
8 Aguilar
Features give information on Córdoba. Road map C2. * 13,500.
£ @ n Cuesta de Jesús 2, Edificio
Antiguo Posito (957 66 15 67). ( Tue,
topics of particular interest. Thu & Fri.
Ceramics, wine and olive oil are

important products in Aguilar,
Moorish-style Azulejos, a reminder Cancelas are A central fountain or which was settled in Roman times.
lamps, which now of the region’s Moorish attractively designed well traditionally There are several seigneurial
have electric bulbs, past, decorate many iron gates which screen provided water and houses, and the eight-sided
light the patio in the patios, adding to their the private patio from remains a feature of Plaza de San José. Built in 1810,
late evening. colourful display. the street outside. many patios today. it houses the town hall. Nearby is
a Baroque clock tower. Decoration on façade of the 18th-century Casa del Monte, Baena
148 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA CÓRDOBA 149 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp216–19 and pp228–37
Córdoba: the Mezquita Cathedral

Part of the mosque was
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
destroyed to accommodate
Córdoba’s great mosque, dating back 12 centuries, Practical Information
the cathedral, started in
embodied the power of Islam on the Iberian peninsula. Calle Torrijos s/n. Tel 957 47 05 12.
1523. Featuring an Italianate
∑ mezquitadecordoba.org
Abd al Rahman I (see p50) built the original mosque dome, it was chiefly
Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
between 785 and 787. The building evolved over
the centuries, blending many architectural forms. In
designed by members of
the Hernán Ruiz family.
8:30–11:30am & 3–6pm Sun &
religious hols (Mar–Oct:
10am–7pm Mon–Sat). & 5
The Visitors’ Checklist provides a
the 10th century al Hakam II (see p50) made some
of the most lavish additions, including the
elaborate mihrab (prayer niche) and the maqsura
9:30am Mon–Sat; 10:30am & 1pm
Sun & pub hols. summary of the practical information
(caliph’s enclosure). In the 16th century a cathedral
was built in the heart of the reconsecrated
mosque, part of which was destroyed.
Patio de los Naranjos
Orange trees grow in the
courtyard where the faithful
you need to plan your visit.
washed before prayer.
Expansion Of The
Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the original
mosque. Extensions were added
by Abd al Rahman II, al Hakam II
and al Mansur.
. Arches and Pillars
More than 850 columns of granite,
jasper and marble support the roof,
creating a dazzling visual effect.
Many were taken from
Roman and Visigothic
buildings.
Key to Floorplan
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
4 Top Sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
are dissected to reveal their
KEY
interiors; museums and
1 Puerta de San Esteban is set
in a section of wall from an earlier
Visigothic church.
galleries have colour-coded
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
floorplans to help you locate
3 Capilla Mayor
4 The cathedral choir has
Churrigueresque stalls, carved by
Torre del Alminar
This bell tower, 93 m
(305 ft) high, is built on . Mihrab
. Capilla de Villaviciosa
The first Christian chapel to
the most interesting exhibits.
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758. the site of the original This prayer niche, richly ornamented, be built in the mosque, in
minaret. Steep steps held a gilt copy of the Koran. The worn 1371, the Capilla de
5 Capilla Real
lead to the top for a flagstones indicate where pilgrims Villaviciosa has stunning
fine view of the city. circled it seven times on their knees. multi-lobed arches.
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INTRODUCING
SEVILLE AND
ANDALUSIA
Discovering Seville
and Andalusia 10–15
Putting Seville and
Andalusia on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of Andalusia 20–37
Andalusia Through the Year 38–43
The History of Seville
and Andalusia 44–61
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10 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
DISCOVERING SEVILLE
AND ANDALUSIA
The following tours have been designed to of Andalusia and also contains suggestions
take in as many of Andalusia’s highlights as for expanding it to a ten-day tour if desired.
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Finally, there is a two-week tour, which
to a minimum. First comes a two-day tour of rounds up all of the region’s most celebrated
Seville, the region’s alluring capital, followed attractions, including the Mezquita in
by a three-day tour, ideal if you are going to Córdoba and Granada’s magical Alhambra.
be spending a long weekend in the city. A Pick, combine and follow your favourite tours,
one-week tour covers some of the highlights or simply dip in and out and be inspired.
La Giralda
Named after its giraldillo, the
bronze weathervane which
depicts Faith, La Giralda is the
belltower of Seville’s cathedral.
Visitors can climb it to enjoy
magnificent views over
the city.
Espiel
Cazalla de la Sierra
Aracena Córdo
El Pedroso
A Week in Seville Nerva

Palma
and Andalusia Del Río
Écija
•
Be enchanted by the Carmona
Andalusian capital of Seville,
Seville
crowned by an exquisite Pue
minaret-cum-belltower, Huelva G
La Giralda, and a superb Osuna
royal palace. Utrera
El Rocío
•
Walk the ancient streets of
Cádiz, one of the oldest
cities in Spain, and relax on Golfo de
its perfect beaches. Cádiz
Jerez de la Arcos de Á
•
Stroll around the vibrant Frontera la Frontera
Ronda
little city of Ronda, draped
around a steep gorge and
still boasting a wealth of fine
18th-century architecture. Cádiz
Gaucín
Jimena de Marbella
•
Hang out with the jet set in la Frontera
chic Marbella, which Co

combines glamorous yacht-
Vejer de la Parque Natural
filled marinas with plenty of Frontera Zahara de de los Alcornocales
old-fashioned charm. los Atunes
•
Visit the famous Museo de
Picasso in Málaga, and Tarifa
enjoy the city’s excellent
shopping and nightlife.
•
Soak up the spirit of Al
Andalus in Córdoba, its
whitewashed old quarter
still dominated by the 0 kilometres 50
magnificent Mezquita. 0 miles 50
The Cathedral of Seville by Achille Zo

DISCOVERING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 11
Two Weeks in Seville and Andalusia
•
Explore the region’s beautiful capital, •
Admire the exquisite little Renaissance
Seville, famed for its superb art cities of Baeza and Úbeda, miraculously
and architecture. unchanged for centuries.
•
Listen to flamenco and try some •
Take a night tour around the magical
sherry in the delightful little city of palace of the Alhambra in Granada,
Jerez de la Frontera. the last city to fall to the Christian
•
Visit the wonderful, whitewashed town Monarchs in the 15th century.
of Vejer de la Frontera before heading •
Drive through the mountain villages of
to the picturesque, white-sand Las Alpujarras, which preserve their
beaches nearby. distinct architecture and local traditions.
•
Drive through hills carpeted in cork •
Enjoy one of the last stretches of unspoilt
trees and olive groves, admiring a string coastline on the Mediterranean in the
of Pueblos Blancos (white villages). Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata.
Vilches
Montoro
Baeza Úbeda
Andújar Puebla de
Don Fadrique
ba Cazorla
Jaén
Vélez
Pozo Alcón Blanco
A N D A L U S I A
Baza
Huércal-Overa
Iznalloz
Purchena
ente
enil Montefrío
Iznájar
Granada
Sorbas Mojácar
Trevélez Tabernas
Antequera Bubión
Capileira
El Torcal
Pampaneira
Lanjarón Almería
Álora
Almuñécar Cabo de Gata
Málaga
l
So
d el
sta
Key
A week in Seville and Andalusia
Two weeks in Seville and Andalusia
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, Córdoba
Set in enchanting gardens with water terraces and fountains, the
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, a 14th-century palace-fortress of the
Catholic Monarchs, offers visitors a tranquil atmosphere and city views.
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the city. After admiring the

2 days in Seville fantastic, city-wide views from
the top of the belltower, look at
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville its beautiful 12th-century base
airport, 10 km (6 miles) from the Plaza Virgen de los
northeast of the city centre, Reyes (p84), or perhaps drop
and linked by a shuttle bus. in to the Hospital de los
•
Transport This itinerary can Venerables (p85) to view
be done entirely on foot. the artworks.
•
Booking ahead Essential
Afternoon While away an
around time of Semana
enjoyable hour or two in
Santa and Feria de Abril.
the Museo de Bellas Artes
(pp70–71), then stroll down to
Day 1 the river to see the Plaza de
Morning Begin by visiting the Toros de la Maestranza (p68)
city’s most famous landmark, and the Torre del Oro (p69).
the cathedral and its belltower, One of the pretty narrow streets in the Enjoy dinner overlooking the
known as La Giralda (pp82–3). labyrinthine Santa Cruz district, Seville river, perhaps at one of the
Explore the vast dim interior, restaurants on Calle Betis,
which contains Columbus’s Sierpes (p78), and a delicious many of which have terraces
tomb, and climb the belltower tapas supper at one of the many with lovely views.
to enjoy breathtaking views of bars in the area.
the city. Next, plunge back into Day 2
Seville’s history at the Morning Throw away the map
magnificent Real Alcázar
3 days in Seville and explore the whitewashed
(pp86–7), a lavish royal palace. lanes of the magical Santa Cruz
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville neighbourhood (pp76–7), its
Afternoon Escape the city heat airport, 10 km (6 miles) wrought-iron balconies over-
in the Parque María Luisa northeast of the city centre, flowing with scarlet geraniums.
(pp102–3), an elegantly and linked by a shuttle bus. Explore the exquisite noble
landscaped 19th-century •
Transport This itinerary can mansion known as the Casa de
garden full of charming, be done on foot, but use the Pilatos (p81), its salons gleaming
colourful tiled benches and city’s bus system if you get with burnished tiles. Relax over
fountains. Once you’ve enjoyed tired of walking. a long lunch overlooking one
a stroll, peek into the museums, of the pretty squares.
•
one dedicated to Andalusian
folk art and the other to Afternoon Delve into the
archaeological finds. In the Archivo de Indias (p84),
evening, cross the river to have where documents relating
dinner in the traditional Triana Day 1 to Spain’s conquest of the
neighbourhood (pp106–7). Morning Make your first port Americas are gathered in a
of call Seville’s beautiful Gothic spectacular 16th-century
Day 2 cathedral and its belltower, library. Follow it up with a visit
Morning Get lost in the white- La Giralda (pp82–3), which is to the beautiful Real Alcázar
washed lanes of the enchanting visible from almost anywhere in (pp86–7), richly decorated with
Santa Cruz district (pp76–7),
full of enticing courtyards and
pretty squares. Perhaps drop in
to the Archivo de Indias (p84)
or peek into the Hospital de
los Venerables (p85), before
visiting the ravishing Casa de
Pilatos (p81) with its blissful
secret garden.
Afternoon Spend a couple of

hours at the wonderful Museo
de Bellas Artes (pp70–71), a
fine art collection displayed in a
handsomely remodelled
17th-century convent. Then
enjoy a spot of shopping along
the pedestrianized Calle Exquisite Mudéjar carved arches at Real Alcázar royal palace, Seville
Day 4: Ronda
Drive inland, stopping at
the beautiful, whitewashed
town of Arcos de la Frontera
(p179), crowned by a ruined
castle, then cross the north-
eastern swathe of the Sierra
de Grazalema nature reserve
(p24) to Ronda (pp180–181).
This exquisite little city
straddles a deep gorge,
spanned by a handsome
18th-century bridge, the
Stunning mountain views over the Sierra de Grazalema nature reserve, Ronda Puente Nuevo (p180).
Explore the elegant streets,
stucco and tiles by local artisans. Days 1 and 2: Seville flanked by palaces and
Then take a stroll in the Jardines Follow the two-day itinerary churches, and visit its historic
de Murillo (p85). on p12. bullring, considered to be
the home of bullfighting.
Day 3 Day 3: Cádiz
Morning Go for a wander in Take the A4/E5 motorway south Day 5: Marbella
La Macarena (pp90–91), one of Seville and drive to Cádiz An easy 40-minute drive
of Seville’s most appealing, (pp168–9). Spend the day will bring you to Marbella
traditional neighbourhoods, exploring this enchanting (pp186–7), which preserves
which is named for a much- ancient city, which is piled up a picturesque historic quarter
venerated statue of the Virgin on a long, narrow isthmus. and a fine main square shaded
held in the Basílica de la Amble through the narrow by orange trees. Long the
Macarena (p93). Visit the Palacio lanes of the historic quarter resort of choice for aristocrats
de Lebrija (p78), an aristocratic (pp170–1), visiting the atmos- and celebrities, it remains one
mansion containing a wealth of pheric market and the vast of the most chic towns on
archaeological treasures, then cathedral. Climb the Torre the Costa del Sol.
stop for lunch at one of the arty Tavira (p169), which contains
cafés near the Alameda de an enjoyable camera obscura, Day 6: Málaga
Hércules (p92). to take in the splendid views, A fast motorway links Marbella
and then spend an hour or two with Málaga, about 60 km
Afternoon Enjoy a peaceful soaking up the sunshine and (37 miles) up the coast.
stroll in the elegant Parque atmosphere on one of the Málaga (pp184–5) is a vibrant
María Luisa (pp102–3), with its city’s great beaches. and dynamic city which boasts
leafy avenues and tiled benches two exceptional museums –
and fountains. The park contains To extend your trip… the Museo de Picasso and
a pair of fine museums, both Head south down the coast the Museo Carmen Thyssen –
well worth a visit: the Museo de towards Tarifa (p173). Spend both are well worth a visit.
Artes y Costumbres Populares the night there, then head Following your museum
(p103) and the Museo Arque- up through the hills of the stint, scramble up to the
ológico (p103). In the evening, Parque Natural de Los striking clifftop fortress, the
head to the vibrant Triana area Alcornocales via Jimena de Alcazaba (p185), to enjoy
(p106–7) and take a tour of the la Frontera (p178) and the fabulous views and
many traditional tapas bars. Gaucín (p178) to Ronda. an interesting local
history museum.
A Week in Seville
and Andalusia
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville
airport, 10 km (6 miles)
northeast of the city centre,
and linked by a shuttle bus.
•
Transport The Seville
section can be done on foot,
but a car is essential for the
rest of this itinerary.
•
The Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares in the Parque María Luisa, Seville
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To extend your trip…

Spend the morning
exploring Antequera,
(p183) then go hiking amid
the rugged limestone crags
of El Torcal (p183) in the
afternoon. Spend the night
in Antequera.
Day 7: Córdoba
Drive north to Córdoba
(pp144–7), an enticing city still
suffused with the spirit of old
Al Andalus. The highlight is the
astounding Mezquita (pp148–9),
the vast mosque-turned-church Resplendent arches and pillars adorning the Mezquita, Córdoba
which dates back 12 centuries.
Explore the twisting lanes of the Day 1: Seville Day 5: Ronda to Marbella
Judería (p144), and visit the Pick some highlights from the After a morning spent strolling
impressive Alcázar de los two-day itinerary on p12. the elegant streets of Ronda,
Reyes Cristianos (p146), set drive to Marbella (pp186–7),
in enchanting gardens. Day 2: Seville to Cádiz one of the most attractive
Potter down to Jerez de la towns on the Costa del Sol.
2 Weeks in Seville Frontera (p166), cradle of A favourite with the jet set, it
and Andalusia flamenco and home to some boasts glossy marinas and fine
fine, sherry-producing bodegas beaches, but its appealing
•
Arriving Arrive at Seville (p167). Continue on to the historic quarter, with white-
airport, 10 km (6 miles) enchanting, sun-bleached city washed lanes and orange trees,
northeast of the city centre, of Cádiz (pp168–9), the oldest is still its best charming feature.
and linked by a shuttle bus. continually inhabited city in
•
Transport A car is essential Spain. Explore the dilapidated Day 6: Marbella to Málaga
for this tour. yet charming historic quarter Drive up the coast to the vibrant
(pp170–71), and tuck into some city of Málaga (pp184–5), which
•
Booking ahead
delicious seafood in one of its boasts great beaches and
Book Alhambra tickets in
traditional restaurants. nightlife as well as a host of
advance, particularly if you
cultural attractions. These are
want to do the night visit.
Day 3: Tarifa and the Costa spearheaded by the excellent
Tel: 34 958 92 60 31, or
de la Luz Museo de Picasso and the
online at ∑ alhambra-
Follow the coast south, Museo Carmen Thyssen
tickets.es. More information
stopping at hilltop Vejer de la (pp184–5), but do not miss a
at ∑ alhambra-
Frontera (p172) and perhaps visit to the clifftop Alcazaba
patronato.es
enjoy an hour or two on the (p185), an ancient fortress that
beaches at Zahara de los contains an interesting history
Atunes (p172). Tarifa (p173), at museum and offers sublime
the tip of Spain, is the country’s views over the city.
kite- and wind-surfing capital,
with a delightful, whitewashed Day 7: Málaga to Córdoba
old quarter and fabulous white- Drive north to the market
sand beaches. town of Antequera (p183),
where you can pick up some
Day 4: Pueblos Blancos picnic supplies before heading
to Ronda into the surreally beautiful,
Drive up through the forested if arid, landscape of El Torcal
hills of the Parque Natural de (p183) for a hike. Then continue
Los Alcornocales (p173), visiting north to Córdoba (pp144–9),
some of the area’s Pueblos where you should spend
Blancos (white villages, p178) the night.
on the way. Jimena de la
Frontera and Gaucín are two Day 8: Córdoba
of the prettiest. Spend the night Córdoba was once the capital
in Ronda (pp180–81), a hand- of a rich and powerful caliphate,
Garden views of the Palacio del Partal, the some town perched over and, although its influence has
oldest palace at the Alhambra, Granada a deep gorge. long since waned, it remains one
of the most beautiful and stirring architecture and traditions.

cities in Spain. The vast, dazzling Head south of Granada to
Mezquita (pp148–9) continues Lanjarón (p193), famous for its
to dominate the city, as it has mineral waters, and then follow
for more than 12 centuries. The the narrow mountain roads
heart of Córdoba is the Judería east. Stop at any of the villages
(p144), a delightful maze of which take your fancy – perhaps
whitewashed lanes and pretty Pampaneira, Bubion and
squares which overflow with Capileira (see Poqueira Valley,
flowers in spring. p203), or Trevélez (p204), which
is famous across the country for
Day 9: Córdoba to Úbeda its superb cured hams. Spend
Drive east from Córdoba to the night in the mountains
reach Baeza (pp156–7), a perfect before continuing to Almería.
little Renaissance time capsule,
full of splendid palaces and Day 13: Las Alpujarras
churches. Enjoy lunch on one of to Almería
the elegant squares, then head Holiday-makers sunbathing on a sandy Continue driving through
to Úbeda (pp158–9), another beach, Marbella increasingly flat and arid
graceful Renaissance town, countryside to Almería
which, like Baeza, has been lanes of the Albaícin (pp196–7) (pp206–7), a large port city
inscribed on UNESCO’s list of cling steeply to one hillside, crowned by a 1000-year-old
World Heritage Sites. Spend the while the the Alhambra fortress. Explore the time-worn
night in Úbeda. (pp198–9), a spellbinding palace historic centre, with its flat-
set in the perfumed gardens of roofed houses and palm trees
Day 10: Úbeda to Granada the Generalife (p202), crowns reminiscent of North Africa.
Head south to Jaén (pp152–3), another. Other unmissable sights
a sprawling city surrounded by include the vast Catèdral (p194) Day 14: Cabo de Gata
olive groves. Spend the and the Capilla Real (p194), and Mojácar
morning strolling around the which contains the tombs of Stock up on picnic goodies
upper part of Jaén, visiting the Ferdinand and Isabella, known and head southeast of Almería
Castillo de Santa Catalina as the Catholic Monarchs, who to explore the Parque Natural
(p152), which enjoys impressive conquered Granada in 1492. de Cabo de Gata (p208), an
views, and the extravagantly Ideally, spend a couple of days enticing wilderness of rugged
decorated Catedral (p152). After in Granada – not least to enjoy hills, secret coves and beautiful
a lazy lunch, continue driving to the city’s famous tapas bars. beaches. There are few towns
Granada where you should and villages, and you may
spend the night. Day 12: A drive through need to scramble down cliffs
Las Alpujarras to reach some of the most
Day 11: Granada Spread along the southern alluring little bays. Continue
Granada (pp194–202), set flanks of the Sierra Nevada, along the coast to reach
against the backdrop of the Las Alpujarras (pp204–5) is a Mojácar (p209), a picturesque
Sierra Nevada, is perhaps the beautiful, forested region dotted town of white, cube-shaped
city which most deeply evokes with tiny villages that preserve houses arranged around more
Al Andalus. The whitewashed their distinctive local gorgeous beaches.
The picturesque village of Mojácar with its white, cube-shaped houses
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16 INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA Portsmouth,
Plymouth
Putting Seville and Andalusia on the Map

Andalusia is Spain’s southernmost region, bordered by Extremadura and Castilla-La
Mancha to the north and Murcia to the northeast. Its long coastline faces the Atlantic to
the west and the Mediterranean to the south and east. One of Spain’s largest regions, it
covers an area of 87,267 sq km (33,693 sq miles) and has a population of 8.4 million.
Seville is the province’s capital.
Ortigueira
Avilés
Gijón
A Coruña Ferrol Santander
Oviedo
Llanes
ASTURIAS CANTABRIA
Santiago de Lugo
Compostela
GALICIA
Ponferrada
Pontevedra
León
Ourense Burgos
Vigo
Palencia
Benavente
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Aranda de
Valladolid Peñafiel Duero
Braga
Zamora
Vila Real
Porto
Atlantic
Salamanca Segovia
Ocean
Aveiro
Ávila Guadalajara
Ciudad Rodrigo
MADRID
Madrid
Coimbra
Plasencia Talavera
de la Reina Aranjuez
Coria
Leiria Castelo
Branco
Toledo
Cáceres CASTILLA-LA
Trujillo
PORTUGAL
EXTREMADURA Tormelloso
Santarem Badajoz Ciudad Real

Mérida
Lisbon
Evora Puertollano
Setúbal Valdepeñas
Zafra
Linares
Beja
Úbeda
Córdoba
Jaén
ANDALUSIA
Sevilla
Lagos Huelva
Estepa
Granada
Faro
Jerez de la
Frontera
Key Málaga Motril
Cádiz
Motorway
Marbella
Major road
International border Algeciras
Provincial border
Tangier
Ceuta
Canary Islands MOROCCO Melilla
For map symbols see back flap
PUT TING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA ON THE MAP 17
Brive-la-
Gaillarde
Aurillac
Bordeaux
Arcachon Montélimar
Cahors Rodez
Alès
Agen
Albi Nimes
Montpellier
FRANCE
Biarritz Toulouse
San Béziers
Sebastián
Tarbes
Bilbao Pau
PAÍS
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Pamplona Perpignan
Vitoria-
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Logroño
La Seu Figueres
L A R IOJA de Urgell
Huesca
Tudela Girona
Vic
ARAGÓN C ATA L U Ñ A Genoa, Livorno,
Soria Manresa Civitavecchia
Zaragoza
Lleida
Barcelona
Calatayud
Sitges
Tarragona
Alcañiz
Tortosa
Benicarló
Teruel Menorca
Ciutadella
Cuenca Benicasim
Alcudia Mahón
Castellón de la Plana
Sagunto
Palma
MANCHA Mallorca
Valencia
Requena
PAÍS ISLAS
VALENCIANO
Ibiza BALEARES
Albacete Gandia Ibiza
Xábia
Hellín
Benidorm NORWAY
Elda Europe
SW E D E N
Alicante
N O R T H
S E A DEN MA R K
MURCIA Murcia UNITED
KINGDOM
Huéscar REP. OF
Lorca IRELAND NETHERLANDS
POLAND
Cartagena GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
Águillas REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
Mojácar AUSTRIA HUNGARY

A T L A N T I C SWITZ.
FRANCE SLOV.
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BOSNIA SERBIA
Almeriá HERZ.
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KOS.
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ALBANIA
Mediterranean PORTUGAL
Sea S PA IN GREECE
Seville
Melilla, Nador
Ghazaouet
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Seville City Centre and Greater Seville

Seville city centre is a compact maze of old, narrow streets,
with most sights within walking distance. A couple of wide,
busy avenues cut through the centre, dividing it into
separate areas. This book focuses on these areas, starting
ir
with the historic neighbourhoods on each side of Avenida
O
iv
E
N
de la Constitución. To the west, along the river, is El Arenal
R
u
O
lq
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with the Plaza de Toros; and to the east lies the old Jewish
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quarter of Santa Cruz, dominated by the massive cathedral
EN
a
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and the Reales Alcázares. In the north lies La Macarena with
D
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its many churches, while the Parque María Luisa stretches
SA
JU A N
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out beyond the Universidad, south of the historic centre. DAN
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West of the Guadalquivir river lies the Isla
de la Cartuja, former site of Expo ’92, and
the picturesque Triana quarter. Modern Parque María Luisa: the Plaza de España, built
residential areas surround the town centre. for the 1929 Exposition
PUT TING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA ON THE MAP 19
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INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 21
A PORTRAIT
OF ANDALUSIA
Andalusia is where all Spain’s stereotypes appear to have come together.
Bullfighters, flamenco dancers, white villages and harsh sierras are all there
in abundance. But they form only part of an intricate tapestry. Beneath the
surface, expect to find many contradictions. Wherever you travel, particularly
when you escape from the tourist-engulfed coast, you will come across the
unexpected, whether it is a local fiesta or a breathtaking view.
Until the 1950s, Andalusia had changed The Moorish Legacy

scarcely at all since the middle of the The Andalusian character is complex
19th century, when the English traveller, because it reflects a complex history.
Richard Ford, described it as “a land Successive invaders, including the
bottled for antiquarians” – almost a feudal Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors,
society, with attendant rigid social strata. have all left their indelible mark. Although
Today, four-lane highways stretch where the Christian rulers of Spain ejected both
not so long ago there were only dirt tracks. Jews and Moors from their kingdom, they
Children whose parents are illiterate play could not remove their influences on the
with computers and plan university careers. country – let alone on Andalusia. Look at
Agriculture is still important, but there are the face of an Andalusian man or woman
also factories turning out cars and aircraft. and you will catch a glimpse of North
As in other European countries, the service Africa. Centuries of Moorish occupation
industries, tourism especially, predominate. (see pp50–51) and the inevitable mingling
In 2005, they accounted for 68.7 per cent of of blood have created a race and culture
the region’s GNP compared with 8.7 per cent different from any in Europe.
for agriculture and fishing. Yet the 7.9 million As you travel around the region, you
inhabitants retain their characteristic love of will find much physical evidence of
talk and folklore, their indifference to time the Moorish legacy: in the splendour
and their abundant hospitality. of the Alhambra (see pp198–9) and the
Musicians, singers and dancers continuing a flamenco tradition that dates from the 18th century (see p32)
Moorish-style wooden ceiling in the Real Alcázar, Seville
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Mezquita (see pp148–9) Moorish influence may

in Córdoba, and in ruined also account for
fortresses and elaborate Andalusians’ love
tilework. Workshops of poetry and fine
across the region still language. It is no
practise crafts handed coincidence that Spain’s
down from great finest poets, including
Moorish kingdoms. Many among them Nobel
of the irrigation networks prize winners, come
in use today follow those from this region.
laid out by the Moors,
who built norias People and Culture
(waterwheels), aljibes Sevillanos work hard to
(tanks for collecting sustain their reputation
the rain), albercas for flamboyance and
(cisterns), and acequias hedonism. A 13th-
(irrigation channels). Sevillanos enjoying a pre-dinner drink and century Moorish
As these words show, some tapas (see pp224–5) commentator noted
the Moors also left a that they were “the
strong linguistic legacy, not only of most frivolous and most given to playing
agricultural terms, but also of words for the fool”. Living up to that image is a full-
foods – naranja (orange), for example, time occupation, but the visitor should
and aceituna (olive). not be deceived by the exuberant façade.
One surprising aspect of both
Seville and Andalusia is that
although the society may appear
open and extrovert, it is, in fact,
one that also values privacy.
The Andalusian concept of
time can also be perplexing.
Progressive business types
may try to adjust to the rigorous
demands of Europe, but in general,
northern Europeans’ obsession
with time is an object of mirth
here. The moment is to be
enjoyed and tomorrow will look
after itself. A concert will often
begin well after the advertised
time, and lunch can feasibly
take place at any time between
1pm and 4:30pm.
Attitudes to women in
Andalusia are changing, as
elsewhere in western Europe,
though southern Spain’s
tradition for machismo means
that there is still some way to
go. The number of women, for
Penitents parading a giant float, Semana Santa (see p42) example, who work outside the
A PORTRAIT OF ANDALUSIA 23
Barren, remote countryside, one of the many faces of Andalusia’s varied landscape (see pp24–5)
home is still lower than in other countries the Virgin is also subject to a peculiar
of the West. Although many women have admiration from the male population.
a job in their twenties, they still give A man who never attends Mass may
up work when they marry in order be ecstatic about the Virgin of
to have children and look after his local church; when she
the house. emerges from the church in
Paradoxically, the mother procession, he feels fiercely
is an almost sacred figure possessive of her. If you try
in Andalusia, where family to think of the gorgeously
ties are written in blood. robed figure as a pagan
Although new affluence and earth mother or fertility
a steady movement to the goddess, the phenomenon
cities is now beginning to is much easier to understand.
erode old values, Andalusia As a society, Andalusia is
remains a traditional rural unafraid of its emotions, which
society with a distinct emphasis Sevillian lady in traditional are almost always near the
on personal relationships. Semana Santa dress (see p42) surface. There is no shame
Catholicism is Spain’s in the singing of a saeta, the
dominant religion, and adoration of “arrow” of praise launched at the Virgin
the Virgin is a striking feature of Andalusia. in Semana Santa (Holy Week), nor is
Apart from a purely religious devotion, there any ambivalence in the matador’s
desire to kill his antagonist, the bull.
The quintessence
of this is flamenco;
the pain and
passion of its
songs reflect
not just the
sufferings and
yearnings of
gypsies and the
poor, but also
Decorative tilework in the Palacio de Viana (see p147) Andalusia’s soul. Nun with convent jams
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The Landscape of Andalusia

Each year, several million visitors are drawn to the
high-rise resorts along Andalusia’s Mediterranean
coast. Away from these, however, are empty,
windswept Atlantic shores and expansive areas
of wetland wilderness. Inland there are rugged
mountain ranges clothed with forests of pine, cork
and wild olive. Also typical of the landscape are the
undulating hills awash with vines, cereals and olive The fertile plains of the Guadalquivir valley
trees. Of Andalusia’s total land area, some 17 per are watered by the river and have been the
cent has been designated national parks or nature bread basket of Andalusia since Moorish times.
Fields of cereals alternate with straight lines of
reserves in order to protect the region’s unique citrus trees.
abundance of animal and plant life.
0 kilometres 50
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O R
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Cádiz DE
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The Atlantic beaches, where The Río The Costa del Sol
pine trees grow behind the sand Guadalquivir and the rest of the
dunes, are less developed than runs through Mediterranean coast
the Mediterranean costas. Fishing the wetlands of Coto are mainly characterized
fleets from Cádiz and Huelva Doñana (see pp134–5) by arid cliffs draped in
operate offshore. before finally entering bougainvillea and other
the Atlantic Ocean. subtropical shrubs. The
beaches below are either
pebbly or of greyish sand.
Craggy mountains around

Ronda encompass the nature
Key reserve of Sierra de Grazalema.
Desert The area is home to a diverse
Marshland wildlife, including griffon
vultures and three species
Forest of eagle, and a forest of the
Cultivated land rare Spanish fir.
Endless olive groves give the

landscape in the provinces of Andalusian Wildlife
Córdoba and, in particular,
Southern Spain is blessed with
Jaén a distinct, crisscrossed
some of the richest and most
pattern. These long-living
varied flora and fauna in
trees are of great importance
Europe, including some
to the local economy, for their
species which are unique
oil (see p152) as well as their
to the area. The best time
beautiful wood.
to appreciate this is in spring
when wild flowers bloom and
migratory birds stop en route from
Africa to northern Europe.
Vast forests, mainly of
Corsican pine, cover the
craggy sierras of Cazorla,
Segura and Las Villas (see
p160) in one of Spain’s
largest nature reserves.
Cork oak grows mainly in the

Embalse del province of Cádiz. Its prized bark
A
RL
E N A Tranco de Beas
is stripped every ten years.
ZO
A
C
E
D
RA A
ER UR
Jaén SI EG
D ES
R RA
SIE
Embalse de
Negratín
Embalse de The Cazorla violet, which can

Iznájar Granada
only be found in Sierra de Cazorla
Mulhacén S
LO (see p161), flowers in May.
Pico Veleta 3482m DE
3398m A D A RRA BRES
N E V SI E
R A FILA
S I E R
Almería
Vegetables and exotic fruits are grown

all year round in greenhouses covering
many hectares around El Ejido. The soil
of Almería is otherwise unproductive.
A mouflon is a nimble and agile

wild sheep that was introduced to
mountainous areas in the 1970s.
The Sierra Nevada, Spain’s highest mountain range,

reaches 3,482 m (11,420 ft) at the peak of Mulhacén.
Although only 40 km (25 miles) from the Mediterranean Flamingos gather in great flocks
beaches, some areas are snow-capped all year round. The in the wetlands of Coto Doñana and
skiing season starts in December and lasts until spring. In the Río Odiel delta in Huelva.
summer the area is perfect for hiking and climbing.
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Moorish Architecture
The first significant period of Moorish architecture
arrived with the Cordoban Caliphate. The Mezquita was
extended lavishly during this period and possesses all
the enduring features of the Moorish style: arches,
stucco work and ornamental use of calligraphy. Later,
the Almohads imported a purer Islamic style, which can
be seen at La Giralda (see p82). The Nasrids built the
superbly crafted Alhambra in Granada, while the
mudéjares (see p28) used their skill to create beautiful
Moorish-style buildings such as the Palacio Pedro I,
part of Seville’s Real Alcázar (see also pp50–53).
Reflections in water combined
with an overall play of light were
central to Moorish architecture.
Moorish domes were
often unadorned on the Defensive
outside. Inside, however, an walls
intricate lattice of stone ribs
supported the dome’s weight.
Like this one in the Mezquita
(see pp148–9), they were
inlaid with multicoloured
mosaics featuring flower or
animal motifs.
Moorish gardens
were often arranged
around gently rippling
pools and channels.
Development Of Moorish Architecture

Pre-Caliphal Caliphal era Almoravid and Nasrid era
era 710–929 929–1031 Almohad era 1238–1492
1091–1248
1031–91 c.1350
Taifa period Alhambra
(see p50) palace
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
Azulejos (see p80) were
785 Mezquita 1184 La Giralda in c.1350
Palacio
used for wall decorations.
in Córdoba Seville begun
begun Pedro I Patterns became
increasingly geometric,
936 Medina Azahara Mudéjar era,
near Córdoba begun after c.1215
as on these tiles in the
Palacio Pedro I (p86).
Moorish Arches
The Moorish arch was developed from the horseshoe arch that the Visigoths used in the construction
of churches. The Moors modified it and used it as the basis of great architectural endeavours, such as
the Mezquita. Subsequent arches show more sophisticated ornamentation and the slow demise of the
basic horseshoe shape.
Caliphal arch, Medina Almohad arch, Patio Mudéjar arch, Salón de Nasrid arch, the
Azahara (see p142) del Yeso (see p87) Embajadores (see p87) Alhambra (see p199)
Moorish Palace
The palaces of the Moors were designed with gracious
living, culture and learning in mind. The imagined
palace here shows how space, light, water and
ornamentation were combined to harmonious effect.
Clay tiles
Moorish baths made use of steam

and hot water; like Roman baths,
they often had underfloor heating.
Arcaded galleries
Entrance halls were complex provided shade
to confuse unwanted visitors. around courtyards.
Elaborate stucco work typifies the Nasrid

style of architecture. The Sala de los
Abencerrajes (see p199) in the Alhambra was
Water cooled the Moors’ elegant courtyards and built using only the simplest materials, but it
served a contemplative purpose. Often, as here is nevertheless widely regarded as one of the
in the Patio de los Leones (see p199), water had most outstanding monuments of the period
to be pumped from a source far below. of the Moorish occupation.
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Post-Moorish Architecture
The Christian reconquest was followed by the building of new
churches and palaces, many by mudéjares (see p52). Later,
prejudice against the Moors grew as Christians began to assert
their faith. Gothic styles from northern Europe filtered into
Andalusia, though Mudéjar influences survived into the 18th
century. In the 16th century, Andalusia was the centre of the
Spanish Renaissance; and a uniquely Spanish interpretation Mudéjar tower, Iglesia de Santa
of the Baroque emerged in the 18th century. Ana (see p196)
The Reconquest (Mid-13th to The Iglesia de San Marcos

Late 15th Century) (see p94) is a typical example of a
Christian church built at the time
Moorish craftsmen working on Christian buildings
of the Reconquest. Mudéjar
created a hybrid Christian Islamic style known as
features include the portal
Mudéjar. Mid-13th-century churches, such as the
and minaret-like tower.
ones built in Seville and Córdoba, show a varying
degree of Moorish influence, but the Palacio Pedro I Bell towers were often
in the Real Alcázar (see pp86–7) is almost exclusively added later; this one is
Moorish in style. By the early 15th century, pure a Baroque addition.
Gothic styles, which are best exemplified by Seville
Cathedral (see pp82–3), were widespread. After the
fall of Granada in 1492 (see p52), a late Gothic style,
Windows are framed by
called Isabelline, developed. Islamic-style marble columns.
Window openings
become progressively
narrower towards
ground level.
Islamic-style
decoration on
the main entrance is
characteristic of many
Mudéjar churches.
Mudéjar portal, Nuestra Classical arches, a motif of the

Señora de la O (see p166) transitional Isabelline style, look
forward to Renaissance architecture.
Gothic window, Seville Cathedral
Heavily worked stone reliefs, as

decoration on façades of buildings,
have their roots in the Gothic style.
The Palacio Jabalquinto

(see p156) has a highly ornate
façade. Its coats of arms and
heraldic symbols, typical of
Isabelline buildings, reveal a strong
desire to establish a national style.
The Renaissance (16th Century)

Early Renaissance architecture was termed
Plateresque because its fine detailing
resembled ornate silver-work (platero means
silversmith). The façade of the Ayuntamiento
(see p78) in Seville is the best example
of Plateresque in Andalusia. A High
Renaissance style is typified by the Palacio
Carlos V. The end of the 16th century saw
the rise of the austere Herreran style, named
after Juan de Herrera, who drafted the initial Plateresque detail on Seville’s Courtyard, with Herreran proportions,
plans of the Archivo de Indias (see p84). Ayuntamiento in the Archivo de Indias
Stone roundels were used as Classical pediments

decoration; the central ones would adorn the windows.
bear the emperor’s coat of arms.
The Palacio Carlos V, begun in 1526, is located in the Rusticated stonework

heart of the Alhambra (see p199). Its elegant, grandiose gives the lower level a
style reflects Carlos V’s power as Holy Roman Emperor. solid appearance.
Baroque (17th and

18th Centuries)
Early Spanish Baroque tended to be
austere. The 18th century, however, gave
rise to the Churrigueresque, named after
the Churriguera family of architects.
Although the family’s own style was
fairly restrained, it had many flamboyant
imitations. Priego de Córdoba (see p154)
is a showcase of the Baroque; La Cartuja Flamboyant Baroque sacristy of
(p195) in Granada contains a La Cartuja, Granada
Baroque sacristy. Baroque pinnacles
were carved
individually from stone.
Palacio del Marqués de la
Gomera, Osuna (p137)
Repeated string courses

define the church’s storeys and
contribute to the complex
decoration of the façade.
Guadix Cathedral
(see p204) comprises a
Renaissance building
fronted by a Baroque
façade. Such a
combination of styles is
very common in Andalusia.
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The Art of Bullfighting

Bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual in which men (and
some women) pit themselves against an animal
bred for the ring. In this “authentic religious drama”,
as poet García Lorca described it, the spectator
experiences vicariously the fear and exaltation
of the matador. Some Spaniards oppose it (and
it is now banned in Catalunya), but it remains
popular in Andalusia.
Maestranza Bullring, Seville
This is regarded, with Las Ventas in
Madrid, as one of the top venues for
bullfighting in Spain.
The matador wears a traje de luces

(suit of light), a colourful silk outfit
Bull Breeding embroidered with gold sequins.
Well treated at the ranch, the toro bravo
(fighting bull) is bred specially for
The passes are made with
aggressiveness and courage. a muleta, a scarlet cape
stiffened along one side.
Feria!
Bullfighting is an essential and
highly popular part of many ferias
in Spain. An enthusiastic and
very knowledgeable audience,
often in traditional dress, fills
the arenas from
the start of the
season in April
until its end in
October (see
pp42–3).
Fancy feria wear
The Bullfight Today, horses

are heavily
The corrida (bullfight) has
padded
three stages, called tercios.
In the first one, the tercio
de varas, the matador and
picadores (horsemen with
lances) are aided by peones
(assistants). In the tercio de
banderillas, banderilleros
stick pairs of darts in the
bull’s back. In the tercio
de muleta the matador
makes a series of
passes at the bull
with a muleta (cape). The matador plays the bull with Picadores goad the bull with
He then executes the kill, a capa (red cape) in the tercio de steel-pointed lances, testing its
the estocada, with a sword. varas to gauge its intelligence bravery as it charges their horses.
and speed. Peones then draw it The lances weaken the animal’s
towards the picadores. shoulder muscles.
The Bullring Key

The corrida audience sits in the Tendidos
tendidos (stalls) or in the palcos
Palcos
(balcony), where the presidencia
(president’s box) is. Opposite are Presidencia
the puerta de cuadrillas, through Puerta de cuadrillas
which the matador and team Arrastre de toros
arrive, and the arrastre de toros (exit
Callejón
for bulls). Before entering the ring,
the matadors wait in a corridor Barreras
(callejón) behind the barreras and Burladeros
burladeros (ringside barriers). Horses
Patio de caballo
are kept in the patio de caballos and
the bulls wait in the corrales. Plan of a typical bullring Corrales
Banderillas, barbed darts, are Manolete

thrust into the bull’s already Regarded as one of the
weakened back muscles. greatest matadors ever,
Manolete was gored to
death by the bull Islero
at Linares, Jaén, in 1947.
The bull may go free if it shows

courage – spectators wave white
handkerchiefs, asking the corrida
president to let it leave the ring alive.
Julian López (El Juli)

El Juli debuted at the age of
16. He is renowned for his
fierce courage and his flair
with the capa and the muleta.
The bull weighs

about 500 kg
(1,100 lb)
Banderilleros enter to provoke The matador makes passes with The estocada recibiendo is a
the wounded bull in the tercio de the cape in the tercio de muleta, difficult kill that is rarely seen.
banderillas, gauging its reaction then lowers it to make the bull The matador awaits the bull’s
to punishment by sticking pairs bow its head, and thrusts in the charge rather than moving
of banderillas in its back. sword for the kill. forwards to meet it.
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Flamenco, the Soul of Andalusia

More than just a dance, flamenco is a forceful artistic
expression of the sorrows and joys of life. Although it has
interpreters all over Spain and even the world, it is a uniquely
Andalusian art form, traditionally performed by gypsies
(Roma), known as gitanos in Spanish. There are many styles of
cante (song) from different parts of Andalusia, but no strict
choreography – dancers improvise from basic movements,
following the rhythm of the guitar and their feelings. Flamenco
was neglected in the 1960s and ’70s, but serious interest has
once again returned. Recent years have seen a revival of Sevillanas, a folk dance
that is strongly influenced
traditional styles and the development of exciting new forms. by flamenco, is danced by
Andalusians in bars and at
social events (see p244).
At a tablao (flamenco
club) there will be at
least four people on
stage, including the
hand clapper.
The origins of flamenco are hard to trace. Roma

may have been the main creators of the art, mixing
their own Indian-influenced culture with existing
Moorish and Andalusian folklore, and with Jewish and
Christian music. There were Roma in Andalusia by
the early Middle Ages, but only in the 18th century
did flamenco begin to develop into its present form.
The Spanish Guitar

The guitar has a major role in flamenco, traditionally
accompanying the singer. The flamenco guitar developed
from the modern classical guitar, which evolved in Spain in
the 19th century. Flamenco guitars have a lighter, shallower
construction and a thickened plate below the soundhole,
used to tap rhythms. Today, flamenco guitarists often
perform solo. One of the greatest, Paco de Lucía, began
by accompanying singers and dancers, but made his
debut as a soloist in 1968. His slick, inventive style, which
combined traditional playing with Latin, jazz and rock
elements, has influenced many musicians outside the
Classical guitar realm of flamenco, such as the group Ketama, who Soloist Paco de Lucía playing
play flamenco-blues. Paco de Lucía died in 2014. flamenco guitar
Singing is an integral part of

flamenco, and the singer often Where to Enjoy Flamenco
performs solo. Camarón de la Isla Flamenco festivals pp38–43, p244
(1952–92), a Roma born near Flamenco guitar pp38–41, p244
Cádiz, is among the most famous Flamenco in Sacromonte p197
contemporary cantaores Flamenco singing pp38–41, p244
(flamenco singers). He began as Flamenco tablaos p244
a singer of cante jondo (literally, Flamenco dress p239
“deep songs”), from which he
developed his own, rock-
influenced style. He has
inspired many singers. Eva Yerbabuena is a
bailaora (female dancer)
renowned for her amazing
The proud yet graceful footwork and intensity.
posture of the bailaora A harsh, vibrating Sara Baras is another
seems to suggest a voice is typical of dancer famous for her
restrained passion. the singer. personal style. Both lead
their own acclaimed
flamenco companies. Other
international flamenco stars
include Juana Amaya.
Traditional polka-dot dress
The bailaor (male dancer)

plays a less important role
than the bailaora. However,
many have achieved fame,
including Antonio Canales.
He has introduced a new
beat through his original
foot movements.
The Flamenco Tablao

These days it is rare to come across spontaneous dancing at
a tablao, but if dancers and singers are inspired, an impressive
show usually results. Artists performing with duende (“magic
spirit”) will hear appreciative olés from the audience.
Flamenco Rhythm
The unmistakable rhythm of flamenco is created by
the guitar. Just as important, however, is the beat
created by hand-clapping and by the dancer’s feet
in high-heeled shoes. The bailaoras may also beat a
rhythm with castanets; Lucero Tena (born in 1939) Castanets made
became famous for her solos on castanets. Graceful of wood
hand movements are used to express the dancer’s
feelings of the moment – whether pain, sorrow
or happiness. Hand and body movements
are choreographed, but styles vary
from person to person.
Flamenco hand movements, intricate and complex
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The Land of Sherry

The Phoenicians introduced the vine to the Jerez
region 3,000 years ago. Later, Greeks, then Romans,
exported wine from these gentle hills bordering the
Atlantic. However, the foundations of the modern
sherry trade were laid by British merchants who
settled here after the Reconquest (see pp52–3). They
discovered that the chalky soil, climate and local
grapes produced fine wines, particularly if fortified
with grape spirit. The connection persists
Preparing soil to catch the winter rain
today with companies such
as John Harvey still under
British ownership.
)
71
E5
A4
4(
AP
A4
Sanlúcar de NI
V
Barrameda
80
A4
A382
A4
Jerez de la
91
Frontera
Rio Guad alete
Rota
A4 ES
A4
NIV
A3
81
Grapes thriving in the chalky

El Puerto de
A393
soil near Jerez Santa María

Puerto Real
Sherry Regions Cádiz
Sherry is produced at bodegas, or San Fernando

wineries, in the towns of Jerez de la
Key
Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and
El Puerto de Santa María. It is also Sanlúcar de Barrameda
produced in smaller centres such as Chiclana de Jerez de la Frontera
Rota and Chiclana de la Frontera. la Frontera
El Puerto de Santa María
0 km 10 Delimited sherry-
producing region
0 miles 5
Different Types of Sherry

Amontillado is fino aged in the
Three months after pressing, and before the barrel. The “dying” flor (yeast)
fortification process, all sherry is classified as one imparts a strong, earthy taste.
of five principal types. Some brands are dry, others
slightly sweetened.
Fino is by far the favoured style
in Andalusia. Dry, fresh, light Oloroso (which in Spanish
and crisp, it is excellent as an means fragrant) is a full,
apéritif or with tapas. It should ruddy-coloured sherry,
always be served chilled. with a rich, nutty aroma.
It is sometimes sweetened.
Manzanilla is similar to fino, Cream sherry is a full, dark,

but comes exclusively from rich blend of oloroso with
Sanlúcar. Light, dry and Pedro Ximénez grapes. As
delicate, it has a highly the sweetest type, it is often
distinctive, salty tang. drunk as a dessert wine.
How Sherry is Made

Sherry is mixed from two principal
grape varieties: Palomino, which
produces a drier, more delicate sherry;
and Pedro Ximénez, which is made
into a fuller, sweeter sherry type.
Grape-drying is only
required for Pedro
Ximénez grapes. They
are laid on esparto mats
to shrivel in the sun,
concentrating the sugar
before they are pressed.
Crusher and
de-stemmer Grape-pressing and
de-stalking, in cylindrical
stainless steel vats, is usually
done at night to avoid the
searing Andalusian heat.
Grape-picking takes place
during the first three weeks in
September. Palomino grapes are
taken as quickly as possible to
the presses to ensure freshness.
Fermentation
vat in steel
Flor, a yeast, may form on the
exposed surface of young
wine in the fermentation vat,
preventing oxidization and
adding a delicate taste. If flor
develops, the wine is a fino.
Fortification is the addition
of pure grape spirit, raising the
level of alcohol from around
11 per cent by volume to
around 18 per cent for olorosos,
and 15.5 per cent for finos.
The solera system

The youngest
solera contains
new wine.
The solera system assures

that the qualities of a sherry
remain constant. The wine
from the youngest solera is
mixed with the older below,
Sherry for taking on its character. The
bottling is taken oldest solera contains a tiny
from the oldest solera proportion of very old wine.
The finished product at the bottom row.
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Beach Life and Leisure in Andalusia

Thanks to its subtropical climate with an average of
300 days’ sunshine a year, the coastline of Andalusia – in
particular the Costa del Sol – has become one of the most
favoured playgrounds for those looking for fun and
relaxation. In the 1950s, there was nothing more than a
handful of fishing villages (see p187). Now the area attracts
several million tourists a year who are well catered for by
the vast array of hotels and apartments along the coast. The
varied coastline lends itself perfectly to the whole gamut of
water sports (see p246), while just inland golf courses have
become a major feature of the landscape (see p246). Some
of the most popular golf courses are shown on this map,
together with a selection of the beaches most worth a visit.
Sunbathing on one of Marbella’s

beaches, Costa del Sol
Huelva Sevilla
Real Club de
Golf Sevilla
See inset
C
o
Montecastillo Golf
st
a
Cádiz Marbella
Costa Natura
ta
Club de Golf Valderrama os
C
Golf La Alcaidesa
Caños de
Meca
Bolonia
de
Tarifa
la
u
L
Costa de la Luz in western

Andalusia is a stretch of largely Costa Tropical is
unspoiled beaches, refreshingly punctuated by
free from crowds and tower pretty coves, ideal
blocks. Atlantic winds make it a for scuba diving. The
wind- and kitesurfer’s paradise. water is warmer and
clearer than on
Costa de la Luz,
while the sand is
0 kilometres 50
coarse and stony.
0 miles 25
Andalusia’s Best Beaches

1 Caños de Meca 5 Babaloo Beach 9 Rincón de la Victoria
Charming white, sandy Trendy spot just off Puerto Nice unspoiled family beach
beach sheltered by cliffs Banús. Gym and jetskiing. area just east of Málaga.
and sand dunes. 6 Victor’s Beach 0 La Herradura
2 Bolonia A classic Marbella beach for A stony but picturesque bay
Picturesque beach with stylish barbecue parties. west of Almuñécar.
Roman ruins close by. 7 Don Carlos q Playa de los Genoveses
3 Tarifa Perhaps Marbella’s best beach, One of the unspoilt beaches
Sweeping white sands, and shared by the exclusive Don between Cabo de Gata and the
winds and waves perfect for Carlos beach club. village of San José.
skilled windsurfers. 8 Cabopino/Las Dunas w Playa Agua Amarga
4 Costa Natura Nudist beach and sand dunes Excellent sand beach in
Popular nudist beach just beside modern marina. Not secluded fishing hamlet turned
outside Estepona. too crowded. exclusive resort.
Costa de Almería is famous for

its picturesque fishing villages,
and rocky landscapes, which
come to life in the breathtaking
sunsets. Beaches tend to have
escaped overdevelopment, in
particular those in the nature
reserve of Cabo de Gata,
such as San José, here.
Agua Amarga
Playa de los
Genoveses
Almería
La Herradura
Málaga
ia
Rincón de la sta de Almer
Tropical Co
Victoria Costa
l Sol
de
Costa del Sol

Apart from the crowds of holiday-makers, half a million foreign residents
have chosen to live on the Costa del Sol. Complementing the luxury and
high life of Marbella are a number of popular beaches and more than Málaga
30 of Europe’s finest golf courses, including the prestigious Club de Golf
Valderrama, host of the 1997 Ryder Cup tournament. Club de Campo
de Málaga
Torremolinos
Golf
Club Milas Golf Torrequebrado
La Cala Golf
Club de Golf Las Brisas Golf Rio Real

Marbella Marbella Golf
Club Dama de Noche
Guadalmina Golf Victor’s Don

Babaloo Beach Carlos Cabopino and
Monte Mayor Beach Las Dunas
Golf
Player on the green at the

high-profile Marbella Golf
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ANDALUSIA
THROUGH THE YEAR
Festivals and cultural events fill Andalusia’s ending of winter. Summer brings heat to the
calendar. Every town and village has an annual interior and crowds to the costas. Autumn is
feria (fair) with stalls, dancing, drinking, fire- greeted with more fiestas and heralds the
works and bullfights. These are held from April opening of music and theatre seasons. In
to October throughout Andalusia. There are winter, jazz, pop and classical concerts can
also many fiestas, all exuberant occasions be enjoyed in the cities. The first snow on
when religious devotion mixes with joie de the Sierra Nevada marks the start of the
vivre. Spring is an ideal time to visit; the skiing season. Note that dates for all events,
countryside is at its most beautiful, the climate especially fiestas, may change from year to
is mild and ferias and fiestas celebrate the year; check with the tourist board (see p257).
this event spectacularly (see p42), May

and there are processions in Día de la Cruz (first week of
every town and village. On Holy May), Granada (see pp194–202)
Wednesday in Málaga (see and Córdoba (see p42).
pp184–5), a prisoner is freed Feria del Caballo (first week of
from jail and in gratitude joins May), Jerez de la Frontera (see
in one of the processions. This p166). Horse fair.
tradition began two centuries Festival Internacional de
ago, when prisoners, braving Teatro y Danza (throughout
a plague, carried a holy image May), Seville. World-class
through the city’s streets. In companies perform in Teatro
Baena (see p151), the streets de la Maestranza (see pp72–3).
vibrate to the sound of Festival de los Patios (second
thousands of drums. week in May), Córdoba
(see p42). Patios are on display.
April Romería de San Isidro
Almond trees in blossom on the lush Fiesta de San Marcos (25 Apr), (15 May). Romerías are held in
hillsides of Andalusia Ohanes, Sierra Nevada. many towns, including Nerja
Accompanying the image of (see p184), for San Isidro.
San Marcos through the streets Concurso Nacional de
Spring are young men leading eight Flamenco (second week
Few parts of the world can bulls. The bulls are persuaded in May; every third year: 2013,
match the beauty of spring in to kneel before the saint. 2016), Córdoba. National
Andalusia. After winter rains, Feria de Abril (two weeks after flamenco competition.
the hills and plains are green Easter), Seville (see p42). Feria de Mayo (last week of
and lush, and water cascades Romería de Nuestra Señora de May), Córdoba (see p42).
along riverbeds and irrigation la Cabeza (last Sunday in Apr), Romería del Rocío (late May or
channels. Country roads are Andújar (see p43). Major early Jun), El Rocío (see p42).
a riot of wild flowers; almond pilgrimage.
blossom covers the hillsides
and strawberries are harvested.
Popular festivals abound, many
of them religious, though often
linked with pagan ceremonies
marking the end of winter.
March
Cristo de la Expiración (Friday,
nine days before Palm Sunday),
Orgiva (see p204). One of
Andalusia’s most ear-splitting
fiestas; shotguns are fired and
rockets, gunpowder and
firecrackers are set off.
Semana Santa (Palm Sunday–
Good Friday). Seville celebrates Feria del Caballo, held in Jerez de la Frontera in May
ANDALUSIA THROUGH THE YEAR 39
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart

Hours Hours Even in winter, few
12 12 days in Andalusia are
entirely without
10 10
sunshine. From the
8 8 spring, the sunshine
6 6
starts to build up
progressively, and by
4 4 midsummer it can be
2 2 dangerous to go out
even for a short time
0 0 without adequate
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
skin protection.
p193) celebrates with a water accompanied by fireworks.

battle in its streets in the early Lunes de Toro (Around 17
hours of 24 June. Romería de Jul), Grazalema (see p178).
los Gitanos (third Sun in Jun), Bullrunning daily for a week.
Cabra (see p151). A procession
made up of thousands of Roma August
(gypsies) heads for a hilltop Fiestas Colombinas (Around
shrine. 3 Aug), Huelva (see p131).
Festival Internacional de A Latin American dance and
Música y Danza (mid-Jun– early music festival in celebration
Jul), Granada (see pp194–202). of Columbus’s voyage. It is
Performers come to Granada dedicated to a different Latin
from all over the world. Many American country every year.
events are held in the Fiestas Patronales de Santa
Alhambra’s Generalife (p202). María de la Palma (15 Aug),
Algeciras. A saint’s image is
July rescued from the sea. It is
Bullrunning during the Lunes de Toro Festival de la Guitarra (first cleaned, before being carried
fiesta in Grazalema two weeks of Jul), Córdoba in a procession of boats to a
(see pp144–50). Guitar festival beach. Afterwards it is
presenting all musical styles, returned to the sea.
Summer from classical to flamenco. Feria de Málaga (two weeks
During the hot summer months, Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen in mid-Aug, see p43).
the siesta (afternoon nap) comes (around 15 Jul). This Virgin is Fiestas de la Exaltación del Río
into its own. Many people finish honoured in many coastal Guadalquivir (third week in Aug),
work at lunch time and most of communities by regattas and Sanlúcar de Barrameda (see
the entertainment takes place other sporting events. In the p166). Horse races are held
in the cool of evening. Foreign evening, the Virgin’s image is on the beach.
tourists flocking to the coasts put aboard a fishing boat, Feria de Almería (last week
are joined by thousands of which parades across the sea in Aug, see p43).
Spaniards. Large pop concerts
are held in coastal towns.
June
Corpus Christi (late May or early
Jun) is commemorated in
Granada (see p43). In Seville,
the seises, young boys dressed
in doublet and hose, dance
before the cathedral altar. At
Zahara (see p178), near Ronda,
houses and streets are decked
out with greenery.
Noche de San Juan (23, 24 Jun).
The evening of 23 June sees
dancing, drinking and singing
around bonfires on beaches
across Andalusia in honour of St
John the Baptist. Lanjarón (see The Costa del Sol – popular with tourists and with the Spanish
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Average Monthly Rainfall

Rainfall Chart
MM Inches
Rain can be heavy in
100 4
early spring, but summer
80 is almost dry. Humidity
3 and rainfall increase
60 through September
2 until October. The
40 severe drought of 2008
1 has fortunately been
20
followed by several
0 0 years of above-
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec average rainfall.
A fabulous opportunity for

enthusiasts to see world-class
flamenco artists, such as
Cristina Hoyos.
Sevilla en Otoño (Sep–Nov),
Seville. A variety of cultural
events, including dance,
theatre and exhibitions,
and, in addition, sports.
October
Fiesta del Vino (5–9 Oct), Cádiar
(see p205). A feature of this fiesta
in the mountains of the
Alpujarras is the construction
Chirimoya harvest on the subtropical coast at Almuñécar (see p193) of a fountain, which gushes
forth wine.
Fiestas Patronales de la Virgen Festival Iberoamericano de
Autumn de la Piedad (6 Sep), Baza (see Teatro (last two weeks of Oct),
This is a most pleasant time to p204). A bizarre fiesta in which Cádiz (see pp168–9). Latin
visit Andalusia. The weather is a figure known as Cascamorras American theatre festival.
settled, but without the searing comes from neighbouring
summer heat, and the holiday Guadix to try to steal a statue November
crowds are easing. Grape of the Virgin. Youths Festival Internacional de Jazz
harvests are in full swing covered with oil taunt (early Nov), Granada (see
and being celebrated him and chase him pp194–202) and Seville.
in towns and villages. out of town. He is Festival de Cine Ibero-
The theatres start to sent back to Guadix americano (last two weeks
open for drama and empty-handed, of Nov), Huelva (see p131).
concerts. Along the where he receives further Latin American film festival.
subtropical coast of punishment for
the Mediterranean, his failure.
sweet potatoes Moros y
and chirimoyas Moros y Cristianos Cristianos
(custard apples) fiesta, Válor (15 Sep), Válor (see
are harvested. p205). Re-creation of
Inland, mushrooms, freshly the Reconquest battles.
picked, feature on menus. Fiesta de la Vendimia (second
or third week of Sep), La Palma
September del Condado (see p133). A
Feria de Pedro Romero (first lively fiesta to bless the first
two weeks in Sep), Ronda grape juice.
(see pp180–81). This fiesta Romería de San Miguel (last
celebrates the founder of Sunday of Sep), Torremolinos
modern bullfighting (see p181). (see p186). One of the largest
All participants in the Corrida romerías in Andalusia.
Goyesca wear costumes Bienal de Arte Flamenco (last
reflecting the era of Goya, two weeks of Sep, even- Oil-covered youths chasing
a great bullfighting fan. numbered years), Seville. Cascamorras in Baza
Average Monthly Temperature

Temperature Chart
°C °F Andalusia enjoys a warm
30 90 Mediterranean climate
25 80 throughout the year,
although it can become
20 70 cold at night.
15 60 Temperatures rise from
January to the summer
10 50
months when, in some
5 40 cities inland, they can far
0 30 exceed the average for
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the region.
pandas (bands) compete in February

performing verdiales, wild, Los Carnavales (second or third
primitive music from week in Feb). Carnival is widely
Moorish times, played on celebrated, most spectacularly
medieval instruments. in Cádiz (see p43) and Isla
Cristina (see p130).
January Festival de Música Antigua
Día de la Toma (2 Jan), Granada (Feb and Mar), Seville. Early
(see pp194–202). This fiesta music is performed on
recalls the ousting of the Moors historic instruments.
in 1492 (see p52). Queen Isabel’s Jerez Annual Flamenco Festival
crown and King Fernando’s (end Feb/early Mar), Jerez (see
sword are paraded through the p166). Flamenco performances
streets, and the royal standard and workshops.
flies from the balcony of
the Ayuntamiento.
Public Holidays
Medieval music at the Fiesta de los Día de Reyes (6 Jan). On the
Verdiales in Málaga evening before this public New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
holiday, the Three Kings arrive, Epiphany (6 Jan)
splendidly dressed, to parade Día de Andalucía (28 Feb)
Winter through town centres across Easter Thursday and
At this time of year the ripe Andalusia. They ride in small Good Friday (variable)
olives are harvested in carriages that are drawn either
Labour Day (1 May)
abundance. The restaurants by tractors or horses and,
serve venison, wild boar and during processions, throw Assumption (15 Aug)
partridge dishes as this is the sweets to the excited children. National Day (12 Oct)
hunting season. Skiers flock to Certamen Internacional de All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
the Sierra Nevada. Though Guitarra Clásica Andrés Constitution Day (6 Dec)
winter is the rainy season and it Segovia (first week of Jan), Immaculate
is cold at night, many days have Almuñécar (see p193). Classical Conception (8 Dec)
sunshine. By February, almond guitar competition in homage Christmas Day (25 Dec)
blossom and strawberries begin to the master.
to appear again.
December
La Inmaculada Concepción
(8 Dec), Seville. The tuna, groups
of wandering minstrels, take to
the streets around the Plaza
del Triunfo and Santa Cruz
(see pp76–7).
Fiesta de los Verdiales (28 Dec),
Málaga (see pp184–5). On Spain’s
equivalent of April Fool’s Day,
El Día de los Santos Inocentes,
thousands of town and country
folk gather at the Venta del
Túnel, on the outskirts of
Málaga. They come to hear Ski station on the snow-covered slopes of the Sierra Nevada (see p203)
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Fiestas in Andalusia
There is nothing quite like a Spanish fiesta or feria, and a flamenco accent (out of
those of Andalusia are among the most colourful. Fiestas a thousand casetas, about a
may commemorate an historic event or a change of season. quarter are open to the public).
There are bullfights in the
More often they mark a religious occasion; Semana Santa
Maestranza bullring (see p72).
(Holy Week), for example, is celebrated all over Andalusia.
Feasting, dancing, singing, drinking – often right around
the clock – are all integral to a fiesta. At a feria there will Huelva and Sevilla
often be a decorated fairground, revellers dressed in One of Spain’s most popular
traditional flamenco attire, and processions of horses and fiestas, the Romería del Rocío,
is held during Pentecost. More
carriages. Throughout Andalusia you will also come across than 70 brotherhoods trek to
romerías, in which processions carry holy effigies through the shrine of El Rocío (see p133)
the countryside to a shrine. amid Las Marismas, the
marshlands at the mouth of
the Guadalquivir. They are
joined by pilgrims travelling
on horseback, on foot or by car.
All pay homage to the Virgen
del Rocío, also called the White
Dove or the Queen of the
Marshes. There is drinking and
dancing for several days and
nights, until the early hours of
Monday morning when the
Virgin is brought out of the
shrine. Young men from the
nearby town of Almonte carry
her through the crowds for
up to 12 hours, fighting off
anybody who tries to get near.
Dancers in their finery at Seville’s Feria de Abril Córdoba and Jaén

May is a nonstop fiesta in
horsemen and women wearing Córdoba (see pp144–50).
Seville brightly coloured flamenco The Día de la Cruz – the Day
Semana Santa, or Holy Week dresses show off their finery in of the Cross – is held on the
(Palm Sunday–Good Friday) is a parade known as the Paseo first three days of the month.
celebrated in flamboyant style de Caballos. At night, casetas Religious brotherhoods and
in Seville. More than 100 pasos (temporary marquees) throb neighbourhoods compete with
(floats bearing religious effigies) to sevillanas, each other to create the most
are carried through the streets a popular colourful, flower-decorated
of the city. They are accompanied dance crosses, which are set up in
by nazarenos, members of some that has squares and at street corners.
50 brotherhoods dating back to Following this is the Festival
the 13th century, wearing long de los Patios (around
robes and tall pointed hoods. 5–15 May), when the
As the processions sway
through the streets, appointed
singers burst into saetas, shafts
of song in praise of the Virgin.
Emotion reaches fever-pitch in
the early hours of Good Friday,
when the Virgen de La Macarena
is paraded, accompanied by
2,500 nazarenos (see p93).
During their Feria de Abril,
the spring fair held around two
weeks after Easter, the sevillanos
go on a spree for a week. Daily,
from about 1pm, elegant Pilgrims taking part in the Romería del Rocío in Huelva province
patios of the city’s old quarter

are thrown open for visitors to
come and admire. Crowds go
from patio to patio, at each
one launching into flamenco
dance or song.
During the last week of May,
Córdoba holds its lively feria. It is
as colourful as the Feria de Abril
in Seville, but more accessible
to strangers. This festival, with
roots in Roman times, welcomes
the spring.
The Romería de Nuestra
Señora de la Cabeza takes place Costumed revellers at the February Carnival (Los Carnavales) in Cádiz
on the last Sunday in April at the
Santuario de la Virgen de la take part in a parade. The whole
Cabeza (see p155), a remote city puts on fancy dress and Granada and Almería
shrine in the Sierra Morena. Over crowds of revellers throng the Corpus Christi, held in late
250,000 people attend, some narrow streets of the city’s old May or early June, is one of
making the pilgrimage on foot or quarter, shouting, singing, the major events in Granada
on horseback. At the site, flames dancing and drinking. (see pp194–202). On the day
shoot up day and night from a The Feria de Málaga in the before Corpus a procession of
torch fed by candles lit by the middle of August each year, bigheads (costumed caricatures
faithful. Then the Virgin, known celebrates the capture of the with outsized heads) and giants
as La Morenita, is borne through city from the Moors by the parades through the city, led by
the crowd to cries of ¡Guapa, Catholic Monarchs (see p52). the tarasca, a woman on a huge
guapa! (beautiful, beautiful!). Eager to outdo Seville, Málaga dragon. The next day, the
(see pp184–5) puts on a fine custodia, or monstrance, is
show. The residents, famous for carried from the cathedral all
their ability to organize a good through the streets. For a week
party, put on traditional afterwards there is bullfighting,
costume and parade, along flamenco and general revelry.
with decorated carriages and The feria in Almería (see
elegant horsefolk, through the pp206–7), which is held at
fairground. The entertainment the end of August, is in honour
goes on of the Virgen del Mar. There are
for a week funfairs, processions, sporting
nonstop, events and bullfights. The city’s
and top Virgin dates back to 1502,
bullfighters when a coastguard on the
perform at lookout for Berber pirates
Penitents at the Romería de Nuestra Señora the city’s found an image of the
de la Cabeza in April bullring (see Virgin washed up
p185) in La on a beach.
Malagueta.
Cádiz and Málaga
For two weeks in February,
Los Carnavales (Carnival) is
celebrated with more flair and
abandon in Cádiz (see p168) than
anywhere else in Andalusia.
Some say it rivals the carnival in
Río de Janeiro. Groups of singers
practise for months in advance,
composing outrageous satirical
ditties that poke fun at anything
from the current fashions to
celebrities, especially politicians.
Often sumptuously costumed,
they perform their songs in the
Falla Theatre in a competition
lasting for several days. Then they Feria de Málaga, celebrating the capture of the city from the Moors
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INTRODUCING SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 45
THE HISTORY OF
SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA
Andalusia’s early history is an extraordinary then in Seville, and, towards the end of
tale of ancient cities – Cádiz (see pp168–9), their almost 800-year rule, in the Nasrid
founded in 1100 BC, is the oldest city in kingdom of Granada.
Europe – and waves of settlers, each one After the fall of Granada to the Christians
contributing new ideas and customs. in 1492, Spain entered an era of expansion
Hominids first inhabited the region about and prosperity. The conquest of the New
one million years ago. Homo sapiens had World made Seville one of the most affluent
arrived by 25,000 BC, and by the Iron Age cities in Europe, but much of this wealth
a strong Iberian culture had emerged. was squandered on wars by the Habsburg
Later, trade and cultural links developed kings. By the 18th century, Spain had fallen
first with the Phoenicians, then with the into economic decline; in the 19th and
Greeks and Carthaginians. These ties and early 20th centuries poverty led to political
the abundance of natural raw materials, conflict and, ultimately, to the Civil War.
such as iron, gold and copper ore, made The years after the Civil War saw
this part of Iberia one of the wealthiest continuing poverty, though mass tourism
areas of the Mediterranean. in the 1960s and 1970s did much to ease
Attracted by its riches, the Romans this. With Franco’s death and Spain’s
made their first forays into southern Spain entry into the EU, the Spanish began
in 206 BC. They ruled for almost 700 years. to enjoy increasing prosperity and
Their place was eventually taken by the democratic freedoms. Andalusia still
Visigoths as the Western Roman Empire lagged behind, however. The Expo ‘92
crumbled in the 5th century AD. The Moors, was part of government policy to foster
who followed, flourished first in Córdoba, its economic growth.
The 16th-century port of Seville, where ships brought wealth from the Americas to the Holy Roman Empire
18th-century lithograph of the Puerta de la Justicia in the Alhambra (see pp198–9)
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Early Andalusia
Neanderthals inhabited Gibraltar around 50,000 BC. Homo
sapiens arrived 25,000 years later and Neolithic tribespeople
from Africa settled in Spain from about 7000 BC. By the time
the Phoenicians arrived to trade in precious metals, they were
met by a sophisticated Iberian culture. They later established
trading links with the semi-mythical Iberian kingdom of
Tartessus. The Greeks, already settled in northeastern Spain, Areas of influence
started to colonize the south from about 600 BC. Meanwhile, Greek Phoenician
Celts from the north had mixed with Iberians. This culture,
influenced by the Greeks, created beautiful works of art.
The Carthaginians arrived in about 500 BC and,
according to legend, destroyed Tartessus. The short
sword and
shield denote an
Iberian warrior.
Burial Sight at Los Millares

Los Millares (see p207) was the site of an early
metal-working civilization in about 2300 BC.
Up to 100 corpses were buried on a single site;
the huge burial chambers were covered with
earth to make a gently sloping mound.
This figure’s arms
are outstretched
in an attitude
of prayer.
Iberian Bronze Figures

Cave Paintings These bronze figurines from the 5th–4th centuries
From approximately 25,000 BC, people BC are votive offerings to the gods. They were
painted caves in Andalusia. They portrayed discovered in a burial ground near Despeñaperros
fish, land animals, people, weapons and other in the province of Jaén. The Romans regarded the
subjects with a skilful naturalism. Iberians who crafted them as exceptionally noble.
1,000,000–750,000 BC 25,000–18,000 BC 4000 BC Burials at Cueva de los Murciélagos

Stones worked by Homo sapiens make in Granada leave Neolithic remains; esparto
hominids at Puerto cave paintings and sandals, religious offerings and other items
de Santa María, Cádiz rock engravings
4500 BC Farmers begin to grow
Stone tool crops and breed cattle
1,000,000 BC 50,000 BC 10,000 BC 8000 BC 6000 BC 4000 BC
50,000 BC
Neanderthals 7000 BC Neolithic colonists arrive,
inhabit Gibraltar perhaps from North Africa. Farming Neolithic
begins on Iberian Peninsula ochre pot
THE HISTORY OF SEVILLE AND ANDALUSIA 47
Goddess Astarte
The Phoenicians founded Cádiz in Where to See
about 1100 BC. They brought their Early Andalusia
own goddess, Astarte, who became
popular across Andalusia as the region Cave paintings can be seen in the
absorbed eastern influences. Cueva de la Pileta near Ronda la
Vieja (p179). At Antequera (p183)
there are Bronze Age dolmens
dating from 2500 BC; at Los
Millares (p207) there are burial
chambers dating from the Copper
Age. The replicas of the famous
Tartessian Carambolo Treasure
The headdress shows are in the Museo Arqueológico
this is a votaress, The hand of in Seville (p101) and Iberian
devoted to her god. this priestess stone carvings from Porcuna
is raised in are exhibited in Jaén (p153).
benediction.
Greek Urn
The ancient
Greeks imported
many artifacts
from home; their
style of decoration
had a strong
influence on
Iberian art.
The Toro de Porcuna (500–450

BC) was found at Porcuna near Jaén
with other sculptures.
Dama de Baza
This female figure, dating
from around 500–400 BC,
may represent an Iberian
goddess. It is
one of several
such figures
found in
southern Spain.
Carambolo Treasure
Phoenician in style, this
treasure is from Tartessus.
Although many artifacts
have been uncovered,
the site of this kingdom
has yet to be found.
2300 BC Beginning 800–700 BC Kingdom 241 BC First Punic War

of the Bronze Age; of Tartessus at its between Carthage and Rome
dolmen-style burials height, influenced
take place at Los by the Phoenicians 219 BC Carthaginians take
Tartessian buckle Sagunto, eastern Spain
Millares (see p207)
2000 BC 1000 BC 800 BC 600 BC 400 BC
600 BC Greek 500 BC Carthage

1100 BC Foundation of 800 BC Celts from colonists settle on colonizes southern
Cádiz by the Phoenicians northern Europe the coasts of Spain
move southwards Andalusia
Greek helmet
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Romans and Visigoths

The Romans came to Spain during a war against Carthage in
206 BC. Attracted by the wealth of the peninsula, they stayed
for 700 years; in 200 years they conquered Spain (Hispania)
and split it into provinces. Baetica, with Corduba (Córdoba)
as its capital, corresponded roughly to what is now Andalusia.
Cities were built, while feudal lords created vast estates,
exporting olive oil and wheat to Rome. Baetica became one Roman Territory AD 100
of the wealthiest of Rome’s provinces with a rich, Ibero- Roman Baetica
Other provinces
Roman culture. The Visigoths who followed continued to
assert Roman values until the Moors arrived in AD 711.
Paved streets Temple

Private villas
Hadrian
Emperors Hadrian and
Trajan were born in
Baetica. A great many
politicians, writers and
philosophers from the
province also moved to
Rome, some enjoying
great fortune.
Italica Reconstructed
Scipio Africanus founded Itálica
(see p136) in 206 BC after his defeat of
the Carthaginians. The city reached its
height in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD
and was the birthplace of the emperors
Hadrian and Trajan. Unlike Córdoba, it
Roman Mosaics in Andalusia was not built over in post-Roman times
Private houses, temples and public buildings all and today Itálica is a superbly
had mosaic floors. Many themes, from the gods preserved example of a Roman city.
to hunting, were represented.
206 BC Scipio Africanus gains victory Suicide of Seneca

against the Carthaginians at Alcalá del AD 27 Andalusia
Río; Itálica is founded is named Baetica 65 Suicide of Seneca the Younger
after his plotting against Nero
55 BC Birth of Seneca
the Elder in Córdoba 117 Hadrian is crowned Emperor
200 BC 100 BC AD 1 100 200
200 BC Romans 98–117 Trajan, from Itálica,

conquer more of 61 BC Julius is emperor. Local senators
southern Spain Caesar is governor Julius enjoy influence in Rome
and reach Cádiz of Hispania Caesar
69–79 Emperor Vespasian grants
Ulterior (Spain) Roman status to all towns in Hispania
Where to See Roman

and Visigothic Andalusia
Extensive Roman remains can
be seen at the sights of Itálica
(see p136), Carmona (p136) and
Harvesting Olives Ronda la Vieja (p179); in Málaga
Carved on a Roman sarcophagus, there is a partially excavated
this scene shows an olive harvest. Roman amphitheatre, and
Olives were grown extensively in the Roman columns can be seen
Guadalquivir valley from Córdoba at the Alameda de Hércules in
to Seville. Thousands of amphoras Seville (p92). The Museo
of olive oil were shipped to Rome. Arqueológico in Seville (p101),
Córdoba (p147) and Cádiz (p168)
The amphitheatre was a all have Roman artifacts on
standard feature of Roman display. Visigothic pillars and
towns. The one in Itálica is said capitals can be viewed in the
to have been the third largest Mezquita in Córdoba (pp148–9).
in the Roman Empire.
Visigothic Crown
The jewelled pendants
on this crown form
the name, in Latin, of
the Visigothic king,
Recceswinth. The Roman ruins at Itálica
(see p136) are situated 9 km
(5.5 miles) north of Seville.
San Isidoro and San Leandro

San Isidoro (560–635) of Seville, like his
brother, San Leandro, converted Visigoths
to Christianity; he also wrote a great
scholastic work, Etymologies.
446 Tarraconensis Illuminated cover of

415 Visigoths arrive in Spain in north still Etymologies by San Isidoro
from northern Europe Roman; Rome
attempts to win
632 Death of Prophet
back rest of Spain
Muhammad
300 400 500 600
409 Vandals sack

Tarraconensis 476 Visigoths 589 Third Council of Toledo in
(Tarragona) control whole central Spain. Visigothic King 635 Death of San
of Spain Reccared converted from Isidoro of Seville
Arianism to Catholicism
Theodosius, born in Hispania
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The Moorish Conquest

Called in to resolve a quarrel among the Visigoths, the
Moors first arrived in 710. They returned in 711 to conquer
Spain; within 10 years, the north alone remained under
Christian control. The Moors named their newly conquered
territories Al Andalus and in 929 they established an
independent caliphate. Córdoba, its capital, was the
greatest city in Europe, a centre for art, science and Moorish Domain AD 800
literature. In the 11th century the caliphate collapsed into Al Andalus
30 feuding taifas (party states). Almoravids, tribesmen from

North Africa, invaded the region in 1086, and in the 12th
century Almohads from Morocco ousted the Almoravids
and designated Seville their capital. Abd al Rahman III receives
the Byzantine envoy.
Apocalypse
An 11th-century account of an
8th-century text, Commentaries on the
Apocalypse by Beato de Liébana, this
illustration shows Christians going to war.
Bronze Stag
This 10th-century
caliphal-style bronze is
from Medina Azahara.
The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Abd al Rahman III began his palace of Medina Azahara
(see p142) in 936. This 19th-century painting by Dionisio
Baixeres shows a Byzantine envoy presenting the caliph
with the works of the Greek scientist Dioscorides. The
Moors of Córdoba possessed much knowledge of the
ancient world, which was later transmitted to Europe.
The Medina was sacked by Berber mercenaries in 1010.
936 Construction of Medina

756 Abd al Rahman I reaches Spain and
Azahara begins
asserts himself as ruler, declaring an 929 Abd al Rahman III proclaims
Visigothic king and independent emirate based around Córdoba caliphate in Córdoba
Moorish chief
700 800 900
711 Invasion under 785 Construction 822–52 Rule of 912–61 Rule of Abd
Tariq ben Ziyad of the Mezquita Abd al Rahman II al Rahman III
begins at Córdoba
961–76 Al Hakam II builds
710 First Moorish
Coin from the reign great library at Medina
intervention in Spain
of Abd al Rahman III Azahara; expands Mezquita
Averroes of Córdoba (1126–88)

A physician and philosopher, Where to See
Averroes reinterpreted the Moorish Andalusia
works of Aristotle for Western
and Islamic scholars. The Mezquita in Córdoba
(see pp148–9) and the ruins of the
palace at Medina Azahara (p142)
are the most complete remnants
of Spain’s Moorish caliphate.
Artifacts found at Medina Azahara
can be seen in the Museo
Arqueológico in Córdoba (see
p147). The Alcazaba at Almería
(see p206) dates from the 10th
century, when this city was still
Horseshoe arches were a major part of the caliphate, while the
feature here, as in the Mezquita Alcazaba at Málaga (see p185)
(see pp148–9) at Córdoba. was built during the ensuing Taifa
period. The Torre del Oro (see p73)
and La Giralda (see p82) in Seville
are both Almohad structures.
Mozarabic Bible
Moorish society
integrated Jews and
Mozarabs (Christians
living an Islamic
lifestyle). Illustrations
like this one, from a
10th-century Bible,
are in a Moorish
decorative style. The Alcazaba in Almería (p206),
dating from the 10th century,
overlooks the old town.
Clerics prepare
the manuscript
to be given to
Abd al Rahman III.
Cufic Script
Islamic artists, forbidden
to use representations of
the human figure, made
ample use of calligraphy
for decoration.
Irrigation in Al Andalus
The water wheel was vital to irrigation,
which the Moors used to grow newly
imported crops such as rice and oranges.
Al Mansur 1086 1120 Almoravid power starts to wane

Almoravids
1012 Taifas emerge as invade 1126 Birth of Averroes, Arab philosopher
splinter Moorish states 1147 Almohads arrive in Seville;
1031 Caliphate ends build Giralda and Torre del Oro
1000 1100 1200
976–1002 Al 1085 Fall of Toledo in north to 1135 Maimónides, 1175–1200 Height

Mansur, military Christians decisively loosens Jewish philosopher, of Almohad power.
dictator, comes Moorish control over central Spain born in Córdoba Previously lost
to power territory won back
1010 Medina Azahara sacked by Berbers from Christians
Maimónides
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The Reconquest
The war between Moors and Christians, which started in northern
Spain, arrived in Andalusia with a landmark Christian victory at
Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212; Seville and Córdoba fell soon
afterwards. By the late 13th century only the Nasrid kingdom of
Granada remained under Moorish control. Meanwhile, Christian
monarchs such as Alfonso X and Pedro I employed Mudéjar (see
p28) craftsmen to build churches and palaces in the reconquered Moorish Domain in 1350
territories – Mudéjar literally means “those permitted to stay”. Nasrid kingdom
Granada eventually fell in 1492 to Fernando and Isabel of Aragón
and Castilla, otherwise known as the Catholic Monarchs.
The Catholic Monarchs enter

Granada; Fernando and Isabel
were awarded this title for their
services to Christendom.
Boabdil
Cantigas of Alfonso X
Alfonso X, who won back
much of Andalusia from the
Moors, was an enlightened
Christian monarch. His
illuminated Cantigas are a
vivid account of life in
Reconquest Spain.
The Fall of Granada

This relief by Felipe de Vigarney
Almohad Banner (1480 – c.1542), in Granada’s Capilla
This richly woven Real (see p194), shows Boabdil, the
tapestry is widely last Moorish ruler, surrendering the city
believed to be the in 1492. Trying to establish a Christian
banner captured realm, the Catholic Monarchs converted
from the Moors by the Moors by force and expelled the Jews.
the Christians at The same year, Columbus got funds for
the battle of Las his voyage to America (see p131).
Navas de Tolosa.
1226 1236 1252–84 Alfonso X reconquers 1333 Moors add

Fernando Fernando III much of Andalusia. Toledo Pedro I of Castilla tower to the 8th-
III takes conquers Translators’ School in the north century Keep (see
Baeza Córdoba continues to translate important p176) on Gibraltar
works of Moorish literature
1220 1260 1300 1340
1212 Almohad 1248 Fernando III

(see p50) power takes Seville 1350–69 Reign of Pedro I of Castilla, who
broken by Christian rebuilds Seville Alcázar in Mudéjar style.
victory at Las Navas 1238 Nasrid dynasty His lack of Spanish patriotism provokes
de Tolosa established in Granada. Alfonso X civil war against Henry II of Trastámara
Alhambra (see p198) is begun
Where to See
Reconquest Andalusia
Many of the Reconquest
buildings in Andalusia are
Mudéjar in style (see p28). The
most notable are the Palacio
Pedro I in the Real Alcázar
(p87) and parts of the Casa de
Pilatos (p81), both in Seville.
Christian churches built in
Chivalry Andalusia during the 13th, 14th
The Moors lived by chivalric codes – and 15th centuries are also either
this jousting scene is in the Sala de completely Mudéjar in style or
los Reyes in the Alhambra (see p199). have Mudéjar features such as a
minaret-like bell tower or portal;
Nasrid warriors as, for example, the Iglesia de San
Marcos (p94) in Seville. During this
period the Nasrids of Granada
built the most outstanding
Crown example of Moorish architecture
This Mudéjar-style crown, in Spain, the Alhambra and
bearing the coats of Generalife (pp198–202). Seville
arms of Castilla and León, Cathedral (pp82–3) was const-
is made of silver, ivory ructed in the 15th century as a
and coral. high Gothic assertion of the
Catholic faith.
Astrolabe
As this 15th-century
navigation tool shows,
the Moors had great
technical expertise.
The Palacio Pedro I (see p86) in

Seville is considered to be the
Boabdil’s Demise most complete example of
Legend has it that Boabdil Mudéjar architecture in Spain.
wept as he left Granada.
He moved to Laujar de
Andarax until 1493, then
later to Africa.
1369 Henry II of Trastámara La Pinta, one of 1492 Columbus

personally kills Pedro I; lays seeds Columbus’s ships sails to America
of monolithic Castilian regime
1492 Fall of Granada to
the Catholic Monarchs
1380 1420 1460
1469 Marriage of Fernando of

Aragón to Isabel of Castilla
Forced baptism 1474 Isabel proclaimed queen in Segovia

of the Moors 1479 Fernando becomes king of
Aragón; Castilla and Aragón united
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Seville’s Golden Age

The 16th century saw the rise of a monolithic Spanish state,
led by the Catholic Monarchs. Heretics were persecuted and
the remaining Moors treated so unjustly that they often
rebelled. In 1503 Seville was granted a monopoly on trade
with the New World and Spain entrusted with “converting”
the Indians by the pope. In 1516 the Habsburg Carlos I came
to the throne, later to be elected Holy Roman Emperor; Spain Spanish Empire in 1700
became the most powerful nation in Europe. Constant war, Spanish territories
however, consumed the wealth that its main port, Seville,

generated. By the 1680s the Guadalquivir had silted up,
La Giralda (see p82), once an
trade had passed to Cádiz and Seville declined. Almohad minaret, is now the
belfry of Seville’s cathedral.
Carlos I (1516–56)
Carlos I of Spain
was made Holy
Roman Emperor
Carlos V in 1521.
His election
enabled the
Holy Roman
Empire to gain
access to the
immense wealth
that Spain, Seville
in particular,
generated at
this time.
Seville in the 16th Century

Map of Central America This painting by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–88) shows Seville
Within 30 years of Columbus’s first at its height. With the return of treasure fleets from the New World,
voyage, the distant lands and seas of astonishing wealth poured into the city and it became one of the
Central America had become familiar richest ports in Europe. The population grew, religious buildings
territory to Spanish navigators proliferated and artistic life found new vigour. Despite the
profiting in gold and the slave trade. prosperity of the city, poverty, crime and sickness were endemic.
1502 Moors rebel 1516 Death of Seville 1588 Spanish Armada fails in attack on England
in Las Alpujarras Fernando Inquisition
(see pp204–5); banner 1559 Inquisition 1587 Cádiz raided by Francis Drake
they are baptized persecutes
1519 Hernán Cortés 1580 Seville becomes
or expelled by Protestants
conquers Mexico largest city in Spain
the Inquisition in Seville
1500 1525 1550 1575
1516–56 1532 Pizarro 1556–98 Reign of Felipe II

Reign of conquers Peru 1558 Second Moorish
Carlos I, later rebellion in Las Alpujarras
1506 Death Holy Roman 1519 Magellan sails from
of Isabel Emperor Sanlúcar de Barrameda on first
circumnavigation of the world Ferdinand Magellan (1480–1521)
Inquisition
Fears of heresy laid the Where to See the
ground for the Spanish Golden Age in
Inquisition to be set up
in the 15th century. In
Andalusia
the 16th century autos- The Isabelline style (see p28),
da-fé (trials of faith) were lasting testament to nationalistic
held in Seville in the fervour of the early 16th century,
Plaza de San Francisco can be seen in the Capilla Real
(see p78). (p194) in Granada and the Palacio
de Jabalquinto in Baeza (pp156–7).
Baeza and Úbeda (pp158–9) both
prospered during the Renaissance
Unloading and in Spain and contain some of the
loading took place best architecture of this period in
virtually in the heart Andalusia. The Plateresque (p29)
of the city. façade of the Ayuntamiento
(pp78–9) in Seville is a good
example of the style, while
the Palacio Carlos V (p195) in
Granada is the best example of
Velázquez Classical Renaissance architecture
Born in Seville in in Spain. The Archivo de Indias
1599, Diego (pp84–5) was built according to
Velázquez painted the principles of Herreran style
his earliest works in (p29). The Hospital de la Caridad
the city, but later (p73) is a fine 17th-century
became a court Baroque building.
painter in Madrid.
This crucifix is a
detail of a painting
he made at the
behest of Felipe IV.
Ships from other parts of Europe

brought goods to the city; this
merchandise would be traded
later in the New World.
The Last Moors

The last Moors were
expelled in 1609; this The Capilla Real (see p194) in
destroyed southern Granada was built to house the
Spain’s agriculture, bodies of the Catholic Monarchs,
which had taken over Fernando and Isabel.
700 years to develop.
1608 Cervantes, active in Madrid Original edition

and Seville, publishes Don Quixote of Don Quixote
1598–1621
Reign of 1609 Expulsion of 1649 Plague in Seville kills one in three
Felipe III Moors by Felipe III
1600 1625 1650 1675
1599 Velázquez 1630 Madrid

born in Seville becomes Spain’s 1665–1700 Carlos II, last
1617 Murillo largest city. of the Spanish Habsburgs
1596 Sack of Cádiz by born in Seville Zurbarán moves
the English fleet to Seville
Young beggar by Murillo (1617–82)
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Bourbon Kings
The 13-year War of the Spanish Succession saw Bourbons on
the throne in place of the Habsburgs and, under the Treaty of
Utrecht, the loss of Gibraltar to the British (see p176). Later,
ties with France dragged Spain into the Napoleonic Wars:
following the Battle of Trafalgar, the Spanish king Carlos IV
abdicated and Napoleon Bonaparte placed his brother
Joseph on the Spanish throne. The Peninsular War ensued Spain in Europe (1812)
and, with British help, the French were driven out of Spain. Napoleonic dependencies
After the Bourbon restoration, Spain, weakened by further Napoleonic rule
strife, began to lose her colonies. Andalusia became one of

Spain’s poorest regions.
Romantic Andalusia
Andalusia’s Moorish legacy
helped to establish it as a land
of beauty and myth, making
it popular with travellers of
the Romantic era.
The Constitution is
proclaimed to the
people of Cádiz.
Carlos III
A Bourbon monarch of
the Enlightenment and
an innovator
in matters of
society and
science, Carlos III
The 1812 Constitution
tried to establish During the Peninsular War, Spain’s Parliament met
colonies of in Cádiz, and in 1812 produced an advanced liberal
farm workers constitution. However, after the Bourbon restoration in
in the sparsely 1814, Fernando VII banned all liberal activity. Ironically,
populated during the First Carlist War, Fernando’s daughter, Isabel II,
Sierra Morena. contesting her right to the throne against her uncle Don
Carlos, turned to the liberals for support.
1717 American trade 1779–83

1701 Felipe V of moves to Cádiz Great
Bourbon begins Siege of
his reign Gibraltar
1726 Spain tries to retake Gibraltar
1700 1725 1750 1775
1724 Felipe V abdicates 1759–88

1701–13 but is reinstated Carlos III 1788–1808
War of the Reign of
Spanish 1713 Treaty of Utrecht; 1746–59 Reign 1771 Royal Tobacco Factory Carlos IV
Succession Gibraltar ceded to Britain of Fernando VI in Seville is completed
Battle of Bailén
In 1808, at Bailén, a Where to See
Spanish army comprising
local militias beat
Bourbon Andalusia
Napoleon’s experienced Eighteenth-century Baroque
French army, taking architecture can be seen all over
22,000 prisoners. Andalusia. The prime examples
in Seville are the former Royal
Tobacco Factory, now the city’s
Universidad (see pp100–101),
and the Plaza de Toros de la
Maestranza (p72). Osuna (p137),
Battle of Trafalgar
Écija (p137) and Priego de
In 1805, the Spanish, allied at
Córdoba (p154) all have fine
the time to Napoleon, lost
examples of the style. The
their fleet to the British
lower levels of Cádiz Cathedral
admiral, Nelson.
(p168) are the most complete
example of a Baroque church
found in Spain. The Puente
Isabel II (p107) is a fine showcase
of 19th-century arquitectura de
hierro (iron architecture).
Support
for the
constitution
came from
a wide
section of
society,
including
women.
The Puente Isabel II is an
example of the architecture of
Andalusia’s “industrial” age.
Washington Irving
In Tales of the Alhambra
(1832) the American
diplomat Washington
Irving perpetuated a
highly romanticized
view of Andalusia.
Seville’s Tobacco Factory

Carmen (1845), by Prosper
Mérimée (see p100), was
inspired by the women – more
than 3,000 of them – who
worked in the tobacco factory.
1873–4 First
1808 Joseph 1812 Liberal constitution Isabel II 1870–73 Reign of King
Republic,
Bonaparte made drawn up in Cádiz Amadeo of Savoy
proclaimed
king of Spain.
after Amadeo
Battle of Bailén 1814–33 (Bourbon restoration) 1868 Isabel II loses her
abdicates
Reign of Fernando VII throne in “glorious” revolution
1800 1825 1850 1875
1814 South American 1843 1846–9 Second 1872–6 Third

1805 Battle colonies begin struggle Isabel II Carlist War Carlist War
of Trafalgar for independence accedes
to throne 1874 Second Bourbon restoration:
1808–14 Peninsular War; Seville Alfonso XII made king
occupied by the French 1810–12 1833 First Carlist War Alfonso XII
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The Seeds of Civil War

Andalusia continued to decline, remaining so deeply
feudal that by the early 20th century social protest was rife.
The 1920s brought dictator General Primo de Rivera and
relative, but short-lived, social order. In 1931, a Republican
government, initially comprising liberals and moderate
socialists, came to power. A rigid social order made real
reforms slow to arrive, however, and 1931–36 saw growing Andalusia in 1936
conflict between extreme left and right wing (including the Nationalist territory
Falange) elements. Finally, in 1936, the Nationalist General Republican territory
Franco, leading a Moroccan-based garrison, invaded Spain,

declaring war on the Republic.
Women fought along-
side men against the
Nationalist army.
Moorish Revival
By the late 19th century,
regionalism, andalucismo, led
to a revival of Moorish-style
architecture. An example is
Seville’s Estación de Córdoba.
Picasso
Pablo Picasso,
shown in this
self-portrait, was The Republican Army
born in Málaga
In Andalusia, Franco attacked the Republican army
in 1881. His most
famous work, at the very start of the war. Cádiz and Seville fell to
Guernica, depicts Nationalists, but other Andalusian towns held out
the tragic effects longer. Franco seized Málaga in 1937, executing
of the Civil War. thousands of Republicans.
1882–1912 Growing Spanish soldiers,

militancy of farm workers Cuban War
1876 Composer
Manuel de Falla 1885–1902 Regency 1895–8
born in Cádiz of María Cristina Cuban War
1880 1890 1900
1893 Guitarist Andrés 1898 Cuba

Segovia born near Jaén gains indepen- 1902–31
1881 Pablo dence with US Reign of
Picasso born 1885 Anarchist aid; Cádiz and Alfonso XIII
group Mano Negra Málaga begin
active in Andalusia to decline
Where to See
Early 20th-Century
Architecture in Andalusia
Casas Viejas
In 1933, peasants were This period is characterized by
massacred after an uprising architectural revivals. The
by anarchists at Casas Viejas regionalist style can be seen at
in the province of Cádiz. the Plaza de España (see p102), the
The incident further served Museo Arqueológico (p103), and
to undermine the the Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Republican government. Populares (p103), all in the Parque
María Luisa. The Teatro Lope Vega
(p101) is in a Neo-Baroque style.
The Pabellón Real (see p103)

in the Parque María Luisa is a
pastiche of the late Gothic,
Isabelline style (see p28).
1929 Exposition
This trade fair was intended to
boost Andalusia’s economy.
Unfortunately, it coincided
with the Wall Street Crash.
Arms were supplied

to the Republican
army by the then
Soviet Union.
Federico García Lorca General Queipo de Llano

This poster is for Lorca’s play, Queipo de Llano broadcast
Yerma. The outspoken poet radio propaganda to Seville
and playwright was murdered as part of the Nationalists’
by local Falangists in his home strategy to take the city.
town, Granada, in 1936.
1933 Massacre Republican poster

at Casas Viejas
1923–30 Dictatorship of 1936 Civil
General Primo de Rivera 1929 Ibero-American War starts
Exposition, Seville
1910 1920 1930 1940
1931–39 Second 1939 Civil

1917–20 Bolshevik José Antonio Republic 1936 Franco War ends;
Triennium; Primo de becomes over 500,000
communists lead Rivera 1933 Falange founded by head of state dead
protests in Andalusia José Antonio Primo de
Rivera; later supports Franco
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Modern Andalusia
By 1945 Spain remained the only Nationalist state in Europe.
When Franco died in 1975 and Juan Carlos I came to the
throne, the regions clamoured for devolution from Franco’s
centralized government. In 1982, the Sevillian Felipe González
came to power and, in the same year, Andalusia became an
autonomous region. Spain joined the European Union in 1986
and benefitting from European investors, the 1990s saw econo- Autonomous regions
mic growth. This continued until the global financial meltdown Present-day Andalusia
in 2008; Spain entered into a recession in 2009 and by 2013

unemployment had reached 25 per cent of the population.
The Puente de Chapina

is distinguished by a geo-
metrically designed canopy
Feria running along the top of it.
Despite the
repressive regime
that Franco
established, the spirit
of the Andalusian
people remained
evident in events such
as the feria in Seville.
New Bridges
Despite its autonomy, Andalusia still
lagged behind much of the rest of Spain
economically. Funds were provided by
The Hungry Years central government to build the new
After the Civil War, Spain was isolated from Europe infrastructure needed to support
and after World War II, received no aid; amid Expo ’92. Five bridges, all of the most
widespread poverty and rationing, many
innovative, modern design, were
Andalusians left to work abroad.
built over the Guadalquivir river.
1966 Palomares incident: two

1976 Adolfo Suárez
1940 Franco refuses 1953 Spain is US aircraft collide and four nuclear
granted economic appointed prime
to allow Hitler to bombs fall to earth, one in the sea,
aid in return for minister and forms
attack Gibraltar from but do not explode. The Duchess of
allowing US bases on centre-right
Spanish territory Medina Sidonia, “the red duchess”,
Spanish soil government
leads protest march on Madrid
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980
1975 Franco
1940–53 The 1962 Development of dies. Third
Hungry Years Costa del Sol begins Bourbon
Franco meets restoration; Juan
American President 1969 Spain closes its
Carlos I accedes
Eisenhower (1953) border with Gibraltar to the throne
Franco’s Funeral (1975)

Franco’s death was mourned as Where to See
much as it was welcomed; most Modern Andalusia
people, though, saw the need for The most striking buildings of
democratic change. modern Andalusia were built in
the early part of the 1990s. Expo
’92 left Seville with five new
bridges over the Guadalquivir
river, while at La Cartuja (see p108)
Expo’s core pavilions still stand,
soon to be the site of new
attractions. The Teatro de la
Maestranza (pp72–3), in El Arenal,
was also built during this period.
Package Holidays
Buildings for mass tourism
transformed Andalusia’s coast.
The Omnimax cinema on the
former Expo ’92 site was
originally built as part of the
Pavilion of Discoveries.
The Puente del Alamillo

(Harp) has a single upward The Puente de la Barqueta,
arm supporting its weight. a unique suspension bridge
supported by a single overhead
beam, spans 168 m (551 ft).
Felipe González
In 1982, the year after an
attempted coup by the
Civil Guard colonel Expo ’92
Antonio Tejero, Felipe Hosted by Seville, Expo ’92 placed
González, leader of the Andalusia at the centre of a world
socialist PSOE, claimed stage. However, the city was left in
a huge electoral victory. debt for several years.
1982 Felipe González elected prime 2004 The Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party wins the general
minister; Andalusia becomes an 1996 In the general elections, a result that defies most predictions
autonomous region election González
loses to a coalition 2006 Seville FC 2013 Spanish unemployment reaches
1985 Spain-Gibraltar are the UEFA Cup record high, youth unemployment
led by Aznar
border opens champions stands at 50 per cent
1990 2000 2010 2020
1981 Colonel Tejero 2002 Spain converts 2009 Andalusia’s first subway
attempts coup and holds to the euro system opens in Seville
Spanish Parliament
hostage; Juan Carlos 2006 In March, the Basque 2007 Madrid to Málaga high-
intervenes terrorist organization ETA speed AVE train line opens
Colonel Tejero announces a permanent ceasefire
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SEVILLE
AREA BY AREA
Seville at a Glance 64–65

El Arenal 66–73
Santa Cruz 74–87
La Macarena 88–95
Parque María Luisa 96–103
Across The River 104–109
A Guided Walk 110–111
Seville Street Finder 112–121
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64 SEVILLE AREA BY AREA
Seville at a Glance
The capital of Andalusia is a compact and relaxing city with a rich
cultural heritage. Conveniently, many of its principal sights can be
found within or very near the city centre, which is set on the east bank
of the Río Guadalquivir. Most visitors head straight for the cathedral
and La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Museo de Bellas Artes. Among
other highly popular monuments are the exquisite Renaissance
palace of Casa de Pilatos and Seville’s bullring, the Plaza de
Toros de la Maestranza. There are, however, many other
churches, monuments and neighbourhoods to discover
in the four central areas described in this section, and
more, further afield, across the river.
El Arenal
Pages 66–73
The splendid ceiling of Museo de
Bellas Artes (see pp70–71)
La Giralda rising above the massive Gothic

cathedral (see pp82–3)
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza seen The Moorish Torre del Oro, built to
from the river (see p72) defend Seville (see p73)
Aerial view of Santa Cruz area, with La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Archivo de Indias in foreground
S E V I L L E AT A G L A N C E 65
La Macarena One of many elaborate floats in the Basílica de la Macarena, during

Pages 88–95 Easter Week in Seville (see p93)
Santa Cruz
Pages 74–87 The impressive wooden structure of the Metropol Parasol,
located in Plaza de la Encarnación, acts as a grand gateway
to La Macarena (see p89)
Roman relief of Leda and the Swan,

Casa de Pilatos (see p81)
Sumptuous Mudéjar arches and decor in Salón de

Embajadores, Real Alcázar (see pp86–7)
Parque
María Luisa
Pages 96–103
Plaza de España in the green oasis of Parque Patio of Real Fábrica de Tabacos, today
María Luisa (see pp102–3) the Universidad (see p100)
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SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 67
EL ARENAL
Bounded by the Río Guadalquivir and navigable glory just in time for Expo ’92.
guarded by the mighty 13th-century Torre The east riverfront was transformed into a
del Oro, El Arenal used to be a district of tree-lined, shady promenade with excellent
munitions stores and shipyards. Today, this views of Triana and La Cartuja across the river
quarter is dominated by the dazzling white (see pp106–9). Boat trips and sightseeing
bullring, Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, tours depart from the Torre del Oro. Close by
where the Sevillians have been staging is the smart Teatro de la Maestranza, where
corridas for more than two centuries. opera, classical music and dance take place
The many classic bars and wine cellars before discerning audiences.
in neighbouring streets get extra busy The Hospital de la Caridad testifies to the
during the summer bullfighting season. city’s continuing love affair with the Baroque.
Once central to the city’s life, the influence Its church is filled with famous paintings by
of the Guadalquivir declined as it silted up Murillo, and the story of the Seville School is
during the 17th century. By then, El Arenal told with pride in the immaculately restored
had become a notorious underworld haunt Museo de Bellas Artes further north. The
clinging to the city walls. After being city’s stunning collection of great works by
converted into a canal in the early 20th Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal is reason
century, the river was restored to its former enough to visit Seville.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings
3 Plaza de Toros
de la Maestranza
MAR
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0 metres 400
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The striking Baroque domed ceiling of the Museo de Bellas Artes For map symbols see back flap
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Street-by-Street: El Arenal
Once home to the port of Seville, El Arenal also housed
the artillery headquarters and ammunition works. Now
its atmosphere is set by Seville’s bullring, the majestic
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, which is located here.
During the bullfighting season (see pp30–31) bars and
restaurants are packed, but for the rest of the year the
backstreets remain quiet. The riverfront is dominated
by one of Seville’s best-known monuments, the Moorish 3 . Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Torre del Oro, while the long, tree-lined promenade Seville’s 18th-century bullring, one of
beside Paseo de Cristóbal Colón is the perfect setting Spain’s oldest, has a Baroque façade in
white and ochre.
for a romantic walk along the Guadalquivir.
RIA NO
DE AD
Carmen (see p100), CALLE
sculpted in bronze,
stands opposite
the bullring.
Z
IA
D
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N
TO
AN
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CA
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O
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Paseo Alcalde
Marqués de Contadero
4 Teatro de la Maestranza
This showpiece theatre and opera house
opened in 1991. Home of the Orquesta
Sinfónica de Sevilla, it also hosts international
opera and dance companies.
0 metres 75
0 yards 75
The Guadalquivir
The river used to cause catastrophic inundations.
After floods in 1947, a barrage was constructed.
Today, peaceful boat trips start from the Torre del Oro.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228
EL ARENAL 69
El Buzo LA MACARENA
This is one of many
traditional restaurants EL ARENAL
situated on or just off SANTA CRUZ
Calle Arfe. Nearby lies
Gu
Mesón Sevilla Jabugo I,
ad
al
where jamón ibérico
qu
ivi
r
(see p222) is served.
PARQUE
MARIA LUISA
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 5
El Postigo is an arts
and crafts market. ESA
INU
GA RCIA V
To Seville Cathedral
On Plaza del Cabildo, a well-

hidden square, convent-made
sweets are sold in El Torno.
AV E N
IDA DE
L A CONST
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D 5 . Hospital de la Caridad
S The Baroque church of this
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D
lined with paintings by
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo
TE
and Juan de Valdés Leal.

MP
RA
DO
To Real Alcázar
Key
Suggested route
R
DE
AN
NT
SA
L LE
CA
Maestranza
de Artillería
6 . Torre del Oro

Built in the 13th century in
order to protect the port,
this crenellated Moorish
tower now houses a small
maritime museum.
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1 Museo de Bellas Artes

The former Convento de la Merced Calzada has been e m for
restored to create one of the finest art museums in Spain. disabled
The convent, which was completed in 1612 by Juan de
Oviedo, is built around three patios, which today are
adorned with flowers, trees and azulejos (see p80). The
museum’s impressive collection of Spanish art and sculpture
extends from the medieval to the modern, focusing on the
work of Seville School artists such as Bartolomé Esteban
Murillo, Juan de Valdés Leal and Francisco de Zurbarán.
11
10
. San Hugo en el Refectorio (1655)

One of several works by Zurbarán for the 6
monastery at La Cartuja (see p109), this
8 7
scene depicts the Carthusian Order of
monks first renouncing the eating of meat.
Gallery Guide
Signs provide a self-guided
chronological tour through
the museum’s 14 galleries, First floor
starting by the Claustro del
Aljibe. Works downstairs
The Claustro de los
progress from the 14th century
Bojes is enclosed by
through to Baroque; those Tuscan-style arches.
upstairs from the Baroque
to the early 20th century. 4
La Inmaculada
This stirring Inmaculada
(1672), by Valdés Leal
(1622–90) is in Sala 8, a
gallery devoted to the artist’s
2
forceful religious paintings.
. San Jerónimo (1528)

Sculpted by the Florentine
Torrigiano, this masterpiece in
terracotta brought the vitality of
the Italian Renaissance to Seville.
EL ARENAL 71
. La Virgen VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

de la Servilleta
This Virgin and Child Practical Information
(1665–8), painted on a Pl del Museo 9. Map 5 B2.
napkin (servilleta), is Tel 954 78 65 00.
one of Murillo’s most Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
popular works. 9am–3:30pm Sun & holidays.
7 & ∑ juntadeandalucia.
es/cultura/museos
Transport
@ 6, 43 C3, C4, C5.
14
. Domed Ceiling
The magnificent ceiling of
the convent church, now
12 restored to its Baroque glory,
13
was painted by Domingo
Martínez in the 18th century.
e m for
disabled
Apoteosis de Santo
Tomás de Aquino
Zurbarán accomplished this
work in 1631, at the age of 33.
His sharp characterization of
the figures and vivid use of
colour bring it to life, as can
be seen on this detail.
Entrance
md=
1
Key to Floorplan
Medieval art
Renaissance art
Patio del Aljibe Baroque art . Claustro Mayor
The main cloister of the monastery
19th- and 20th-century art
was remodelled by architect
Ground floor Non-exhibition space Leonardo de Figueroa in 1724.
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Francisco de Zurbarán, St Passing the enfermería (emer-

Dominic in Soria, housed in gency hospital), visitors reach
the Capilla Sacramental (to the a museum which details the
right of the south door), and history of the bullfight in Seville.
frescoes by Lucas Valdés above Among its collection of
the sanctuary depicting The costumes, portraits and posters
Allegory of the Triumph of Faith. are scenes showing early
On the wall of the north contests held in the Plaza de San
transept is a cautionary fresco, Francisco. The tour continues to
which depicts a medieval auto- the chapel where matadors pray
da-fé (trial of faith). for success, and then on to the
stables where the horses of the
picadores (lance-carrying
3 Plaza de Toros horsemen) are kept.
de la Maestranza Bullfighting season starts on
Easter Sunday and continues
Paseo de Colón 12. Map 3 B2 (5 B4).
 Puerta de Jerez. v Archivo de intermittently until October.
Indias. @ C3, C4. Tel 954 21 03 15. Most corridas are held on Sunday
Madonna and Child in the Baroque Open 9:30am–7pm daily (to 9pm evenings. The bullring accom-
Iglesia de la Magdalena Apr–Oct); 9:30am–3pm on modates as many as 12,500
bullfight days. & 8 spectators. Tickets can be
2 Iglesia de la ∑ realmaestranza.com bought from the taquilla
Magdalena (booking office) at the
Seville’s famous bullring is bullring itself.
Calle San Pablo 10. Map 3 B1 (5 B3). arguably the finest in the whole
v Plaza Nueva. Tel 954 22 96 03.
of Spain and is a perfect venue
Open 11am–1:30pm Tue–Thu.
for a first experience of the
5 7:30–11am, 6:30–9pm Mon–Sat;
corrida, or bullfight (see pp30–31).
9am, 10:30am, noon, 1pm, 7pm &
8:15pm Sun.
Although the art of the matador
(bullfighter) is now declining in
This immense Baroque church popularity, the sunlit stage, with
by Leonardo de Figueroa, its whitewashed walls, blood red
completed in 1709, has been fences and merciless circle of
restored to its former glory. In its sand, remains crucial to the
southwest corner is the Capilla city’s psyche. Even if you dislike
de la Quinta Angustia, a Mudéjar the idea of bullfighting, this
chapel with three cupolas. This arcaded arena, dating from 1761
chapel survived from an earlier to 1881, is an aesthetic marvel
church where the great Spanish and well worth a visit.
painter Bartolomé Murillo (see Guided tours start from the
pp70–71) was baptized in 1618. main entrance on Paseo de
The font used for his baptism Colón. On the west side is the
stands in the baptistry. The west Puerta del Príncipe (Prince’s Entrance with 19th-century ironwork,
front is surmounted by a belfry Gate), through which the very Teatro de la Maestranza
painted in vivid colours. best of the matadors are carried
Among the religious works in triumphant on the shoulders 4 Teatro de la
the church are a painting by of admirers from the crowd. Maestranza
Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3 B2
(5 C5).  Puerta de Jerez.
v Puerta de Jerez. @ C3, C4.
Tel 954 22 33 44 (information).
Open for performances. ^ 7
∑ teatrodelamaestranza.es
Close to the Plaza de Toros, and

with echoes of its circular bulk,
is Seville’s 1,800-seat opera
house and theatre. It opened
in 1991 and many international
opera companies perform here
(see p245). Like many of the
edifices built in the run-up to
Expo ’92 (see pp60–61), it was
Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, begun in 1761 designed in a rather austere
EL ARENAL 73
see the octagonal Torre de Plata

(Tower of Silver) rising above
Calle Santander. Like the Torre
del Oro nearby, it dates from
Moorish times and was built
as part of the city defences.
6 Torre del Oro

Paseo de Colón s/n. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
 Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de
Jerez. @ C3, C4, C5. Tel 954 22 24 19.
Open 9:30am–1:30pm Tue–Fri,
10:30am–1:30pm Sat & Sun.
Closed Aug. & (free Tue).
Finis Gloriae Mundi by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de la Caridad In Moorish times the Tower of
Gold formed part of the walled
style by architects Luis Marín some of the leading artists of defences, linking up with the
de Terán and Aurelio del Pozo. the 17th century, despite the Real Alcázar (see pp86–7) and
Ironwork remnants of the fact that some of its greatest the rest of the city walls. It was
19th-century ammunition artworks were looted by Marshal built as a defensive lookout in
works that first occupied the Soult at the time of the 1220, when Seville was under
site decorate the river façade. Napoleonic occupation of the rule of the Almohads
Tickets are sold from the box 1810 (see p57). Immediately (see pp50–51), and had a
office in the adjacent Jardín above the entrance is the companion tower on
de la Caridad. ghoulish Finis Gloriae Mundi the opposite river bank.
(The End of the World’s A mighty chain would be
Glories) by Juan de stretched between
5 Hospital Valdés Leal, while the two to prevent
de la Caridad opposite hangs his ships from sailing
Calle Temprado 3. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
morbid In Ictu Oculi upriver. In 1760 the
 Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de (In the Blink of an turret was added.
Jerez. @ C3, C4. Tel 954 22 32 32. Eye). Many of the The gold in the
Open 9am–1pm, 3:30–7:30pm other works are by tower’s name may
daily. & Murillo, including refer to gilded
St John of God azulejos that once
Founded in 1674, this charity Carrying a Sick Man, clad its walls, or to
hospital is still used today as a portraits of the The Torre del Oro, built New World treasures
sanctuary for the elderly and Child Jesus, St John by the Almohads unloaded here. The
the infirm. In the gardens the Baptist as a Boy tower has had many
opposite the entrance stands a and St Isabel of Hungary Curing uses, but is now the Museo
statue of its benefactor, Miguel the Lepers. Looking south from Marítimo, exhibiting maritime
de Mañara. The complex was the hospital’s entrance you can maps and antiques.
designed by Pedro Sánchez
Falconete. The façade of the
hospital church, with its
Don Juan of Seville
whitewashed walls, terracotta Miguel de Mañara (1626–79),
stonework and framed azulejos founder and subsequent
(see p80) provides a glorious benefactor of the Hospital de la
example of Sevillian Baroque. Caridad, is frequently linked with
Inside are two square patios Don Juan Tenorio. The amorous
adorned with plants, conquests of the legendary
18th-century Dutch azulejos Sevillian seducer were first
and fountains with Italian documented in 1630 in a play by
Tirso de Molina. They have since
statues depicting Charity and
inspired works by Mozart, Molière,
Mercy. At their northern end a
Byron and Shaw. Mañara is
passage to the right leads to thought to have led an equally
another patio, where a dissolute life prior to his conversion
13th-century arch from the to philanthropy – apparently this
city’s shipyards survives. A bust was prompted by a premonition
of Mañara stands amid rose of his own funeral which he The legendary Don Juan
bushes. Inside the church there experienced one drunken night. with two of his conquests
are many original canvases by
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SANTA CRUZ
The Barrio de Santa Cruz, Seville’s old Jewish Esteban Murillo lived here in the 17th century
quarter, is a warren of white alleys and patios while his contemporary, Juan de Valdés Leal,
that has long been the most picturesque decorated the Hospital de los Venerables
corner of the city. Many of the best-known with fine Baroque frescoes.
sights are grouped here: the cavernous Further north, busy Calle Sierpes is one of
Gothic cathedral with its landmark Giralda; Seville’s favourite shopping streets. Its
the splendid Real Alcázar with the royal adjacent market squares, such as the
palaces and lush Jardines del Alcázar; and charming Plaza del Salvador, provided
the Archivo de Indias, whose documents backdrops for Cervantes’ stories. Nearby,
tell of Spain’s exploration and conquest of the ornate façades and interiors of the
the New World. Ayuntamiento and the Casa de Pilatos, a
Spreading northeast from these great gem of Andalusian architecture, testify to
monuments is an enchanting maze of the great wealth and artistry that flowed
whitewashed streets. The artist Bartolomé into the city in the 16th century.
LARAÑA JUAN DE
MESA JAU
REG
UI
D IE G
Sights at a Glance
IMA O
GEN AR MER DE
CUNA
CA AP LO Streets, Squares
A
PL SAN LL ILE
NDIG
GO JOSE LU PEDRO E S
AZA
A
YE IS LUQU and Gardens

JIAS
FRAN
LL
NE E
TA
DO
E
ALHO
CALLE VELAZ
PLAZA 2 Calle Sierpes

NEGRO
O ME
SA
AR R OS
CRISTO DE
CALLE DE RECARE
CAL
NT
PEREZ
LA GA R
BURGOS IA 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
LE S
SC
LO S N AV
G
CA 9 Plaza del Triunfo

CONDE
A
O
CA LL NZ
LINEROS
CI
CU NA
IE RP E
E LA
DO S
L LE
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I
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RA
S F CA RIA
GAL
M
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B LE
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A LL
S
RO
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CA
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Churches
RE
A AL
SA GA STPL DEL
ER
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SALVADOR CAL
CA
L E AGUILAS 4 Iglesia del Salvador

S
ETUAN
VIL LEG AS
EY
MANUEL SAN
ESTE
7 Seville Cathedral and
L R
LIR
CORTINA
VIRGENES
BA
ISIDOR N
A NCOS
CALLE SAN
DE
CALLE ALVAREZ Q U IN
MUÑ
IO
O
COS
RI
O La Giralda pp82–3
MAR R
D
VI
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E DE IBAR
L
OZ
ND
RA
RA
S
R CO Historic Buildings
E
LE DE FR
ORE
PA
CO
Y
LL
B ON
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PL DE SAN
RAD
1 Palacio de Lebrija
FEDERICO
FRANCISCO PL DE LAS
RUBIO
SA N
CA MERCEDARIAS
A
UR
VIE DE
IN
LL
AV D A D E
CAL
3 Ayuntamiento
H E R O LO N
EA
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ES
OL
PL Z
LE LLE
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AD
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CA
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LA
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C A L L E AB
ES
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6 Casa de Pilatos
PE
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0 Archivo de Indias
NT
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q Real Alcázar pp86–7

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w Hospital de los Venerables
ND
MAT DE
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PLAZA DEL PLAZA

TRIUNFO PL REFINADORES
DOÑA
ELVIRA
Restaurants pp228–9
PLAZA
DE
ALFARO 1 Albarama
JUD
JARDINES
Archivo UA
AG DE MURILLO 2 La Albahaca
ERIA
de Indias
E
3 Berrecita
LL
PLAZA
CONTRATACION 4 Casa Plácido
CA
5 Casa Robles
J A R D IN E S D E L
ALCÁZAR 6 Corral del Agua
Puerta
PUERTA de Jerez 7 Don Raimundo
DE JEREZ
8 Doña Elvira
CAL
LE 9 Egaña Santo
SAN
FER
NAN 10 El Giraldillo
DO PL DON
JUAN DE
AUSTRIA 11 El Modesto
12 Oriza
13 San Marco
14 Santa Cruz
15 Vineria San Telmo
0 metres 400
maps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 0 yards 400
Baths of Doña María de Padilla, beneath the Patio del Crucero, in the Real Alcázar For map symbols see back flap
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Street-by-Street: Santa Cruz

The maze of narrow streets to the east of Seville cathedral
and the Real Alcázar represents Seville at its most romantic
and compact. As well as the expected souvenir shops,
tapas bars and strolling guitarists, there are plenty of
picturesque alleys, hidden plazas and flower-decked
patios to reward the casual wanderer. Once a Jewish
ghetto, its restored buildings, with characteristic window
grilles, are now a harmonious mix of up-market 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
residences and tourist accommodation. Good bars Horse carriages line this plaza which
and restaurants make the area well worth a visit. has an early 20th-century fountain
by José Lafita.
Palacio Arzobispal, the

18th-century Archbishop’s Palace,
is still used by Seville’s clergy.
OS
M AT E
Convento de la
Encarnación (see p84)
AV
EN
IDA
DE
L A CONS
BE
RU
U
M
O
T
ER
ITU
M
RO
CIO
N
7 . Seville Cathedral
and La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral AS
M
and its Moorish bell tower are TO
A
O
AR
Seville’s most popular sights. NT

SA
AÑ
M
UEL
MIG
9 Plaza
del Triunfo
A Baroque
column celebrates
the city’s survival of
the great arthquake
of 1755. Opposite
0 Archivo de Indias is a modern statue
Built in the 16th century as a merchants’ exchange, of the Immaculate
the Archive of the Indies now houses documents Conception.
relating to the Spanish colonization of the Americas.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9
S A N TA C R U Z 77
Calle Mateos Gago LA MACARENA

This street is filled with souvenir shops
and tapas bars. Bar Giralda at No. 2, with
vaults that are the remains of a Moorish EL ARENAL SANTA CRUZ
bath, is particularly popular for its wide
variety of tapas.
Gu
ad
al
qu
ivi
r
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 5–6
Plaza Santa Cruz is

adorned by an ornate
MESON DEL MORO iron cross from 1692.
SO
AN
CI
S
EN
TA T
O Z ER
G E
GA E NE
SA
M
XI
RO
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DR
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PL
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JA
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LO
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PE
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A
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A w . Hospital
NE
Ñ
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VE
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PI
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home for elderly priests

SO
N
IE
O
NT
EJ
NA
has a splendidly restored

LL
A
CA Baroque church.
VI
DA
Callejón del Agua

This alley alongside
the Alcázar walls offers
enchanting glimpses
into plant-filled patios.
Washington Irving
(see p57) stayed at No. 2.
0 metres 50
q . Real Alcázar 0 yards 50

Seville’s Royal Palaces are a
rewarding combination of
exquisite Mudéjar (see p28) Key
craftmanship, regal grandeur and
Suggested route
beautifully landscaped gardens.
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Medina Azahara (see p142) are anachronistic, upholstered

displayed in rooms off the world of the Real Círculo de
main patio. Labradores, a private men’s club
founded in 1856. Right at the
end of the street, take the
2 Calle Sierpes opportunity to peruse Seville’s
best-known pastelería (cake
Map 3 C1 (5 C3).
shop), La Campana.
The street of the snakes,
running north from Plaza de
San Francisco, is Seville’s main
pedestrianized shopping
promenade. Long-established
stores selling the Sevillian
Roman mosaic, from Itálica, essentials – hats, fans and the
in the Palacio de Lebrija traditional mantillas (lace
headdresses) stand alongside
1 Palacio de Lebrija clothes boutiques, souvenir
Calle Cuna 8. Map 3 C1 (5 C2).
shops, bargain basements and
Tel 954 22 78 02. Open 10:30am– lottery kiosks. The best time to
7:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm & stroll along it is when the
4–6pm Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. & 8 sevillanos themselves do –
∑ palaciodelebrija.com during the early evening paseo.
The parallel streets of Cuna
The home of the family of the and Tetuán on either side also
Countess Lebrija since 1901, offer some enjoyable window-
this mansion illustrates palatial shopping. Look out for the Plateresque doorway, part of the façade
life in Seville. The ground floor splendid 1924 tiled advert for of Seville’s Ayuntamiento
houses Roman and medieval Studebaker automobiles
exhibits. A guided tour of the (see p80) at Calle Tetuán 9. 3 Ayuntamiento
first floor features a library and At the southern end of Calle
Plaza Nueva 1. Map 3 C1 (5 C3). v
art, such as the Moorish inspired Sierpes, on the wall of the Plaza Nueva. Tel 955 47 02 64. 8
azulejos (see p80). Banco Central Hispano, a plaque Open for tours only, 4:30 & 7:30pm
The house itself dates from marks the site of the Cárcel Real Mon–Thu.
the 15th century and has some (Royal Prison), where the
Mudéjar (see p28) features, famous Spanish writer Miguel Seville’s city hall stands between
including the arches around de Cervantes (1547–1616) the historic Plaza de San
the main patio. Many of its (see p55) was incarcerated. Francisco and the modern
Roman treasures were taken Walking north from here, Calle expanse of Plaza Nueva.
from the ruins at Itálica (see Jovellanos to the left leads to In the 15th–18th centuries,
p136), including the mosaic the Capillita de San José. This Plaza de San Francisco was the
floor in the main patio. The small, rather atmospheric venue for autos-da-fé, public
artesonado ceiling above the chapel, built in the 17th century, trials of heretics held by the
staircase came from the palace contrasts sharply with its Inquisition (see p55). Those
of the Dukes of Arcos in commercial surroundings. found guilty would be taken
Marchena, near Seville. Ancient Further on, at the junction with to the Quemadero and burnt
roman glass ware, coins and Calle Pedro Caravaca, you can alive. (This site is now the Prado
later examples of marble from take a look back into the de San Sebastián, north of
Parque María Luisa, see pp102–3.)
These days, Plaza de San
Francisco is the focus of
activities in Semana Santa and
Corpus Christi (see pp38–9).
Plaza Nueva was once the
site of the Convento de San
Francisco. In its centre is an
equestrian statue of Fernando
III, who liberated Seville from
the Moors (see p52) and was
eventually canonized in 1671.
The Ayuntamiento, begun in
1527, was finished in 1534. The
east side, looking on to Plaza de
Tables outside La Campana, Seville’s most famous pastelería San Francisco, is a fine example
S A N TA C R U Z 79
of the ornate Plateresque style

(see p29) favoured by the
architect Diego de Riaño. The
west front is part of a Neo-
Classical extension built in 1891.
It virtually envelops the original
building, but richly sculpted
ceilings survive in the vestibule
and in the lower Casa Consis-
torial (Council Meeting Room).
This room contains Velázquez’s
Imposition of the Chasuble on St
Ildefonso, one of many artworks
in the building. The upper Casa
Consistorial has a dazzling gold
coffered ceiling and paintings
by Zurbarán and Valdés Leal.
4 Iglesia del
Salvador
Pl del Salvador. Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel
954 21 16 79. Open 11am–8:30pm
Mon–Sat, 3–7pm Sun. &
This church has been completely

restored. Its cathedral-like
proportions result in part from
the desire of Seville’s Christian Baroque façade of the Iglesia del Salvador on the Plaza del Salvador
conquerors to outdo the Moors’
architectural splendours. A Granados, architect of Granada commemorates the sculptor
mosque first occupied the site; cathedral (see p194). In the Montañés. On the east side
part of the Moorish patio survives Capilla Sacramental there is a of the church, the Plaza Jesús
beside Calle Córdoba, boxed fine statue, Jesus of the Passion, de la Pasión is given over to
in by arcades incorporating made in 1619 by Juan Martínez shops catering to weddings –
columns embellished with Montañés (1568–1649). In the the Iglesia del Salvador is a
Roman and Visigothic capitals. northwest corner, a door leads favourite among sevillanos
By the 1670s the mosque, to the ornate Capilla de los for getting married.
long since consecrated for Desamparados and a Moorish
Christian worship, had fallen patio. Over the exit on Calle
into disrepair. Work started Córdoba, the bell tower rests 5 Museo del
on a new Baroque structure, on part of the original minaret. Baile Flamenco
designed by Esteban García. Adjacent to the church is Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos 3.
The church was completed in the Plaza del Salvador, a Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel 954 34 03 11.
1712 by Leonardo de Figueroa. meeting place for locals of all Open 10am–7pm daily. = &
Inside, the nave is by José ages. The bronze statue ∑ museoflamenco.com
Although flamenco was

The Sign of Seville supposedly born across the
The curious abbreviation “no8do” is emblazoned everywhere river, in Triana, the Barrio de
from the venerable walls of the Ayuntamiento to the sides of the Santa Cruz has become its
municipal buses. It is traditionally said to stand for “No me ha dejado” de facto home in Seville. This
(“She has not deserted me”). These words museum of flamenco dance,
were reputedly uttered by Alfonso the occupying a restored 18th-
Wise, after the city remained loyal to him century house on a small street
in the course of a dispute with his son between the Plaza del Alfalfa
Sancho during the Reconquest and the cathedral, is intended as
(see pp52–3). The double-loop
an introduction of the art form
symbol in the middle represents
to the visitor. As much as a space
a skein of wool, the Spanish
word for which is madeja, for exhibits in the traditional
thus no (madeja) do. sense, it is a venue for live
The traditional emblem of Seville,
performances of flamenco and
here in stone on the Ayuntamiento a school offering classes in
flamenco music and dance.
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The Art of Azulejos

Cool in summer, durable and colourful, glazed ceramic tiles have been a striking feature
of Andalusian façades and interiors for centuries. The techniques for making them were
first introduced by the Moors – the word azulejo derives from the Arabic az-zulayj or
“little stone”. Moorish azulejos are elaborate mosaics made of unicoloured stones. In
Seville the craft flourished and evolved in the potteries of Triana (see pp106–7). A later
process, developed in 16th-century Italy, allowed tiles to be painted in new designs and
colours. The onset of the Industrial Revolution enabled azulejos to be mass-produced
in ceramics factories including, until 1980, the famous “Pickman y Cia” at the monastery
of La Cartuja (see p109).
Mudejar-Style Azulejos
The Moors created fantastic mosaics
of tiles in sophisticated geometric
patterns as decoration for their palace
walls. The colours used were blue,
green, black, white and ochre.
16th-century Mudéjar tiles, Interlacing motifs, Mudéjar tiles in the Patio de las
Casa de Pilatos Patio de las Doncellas Doncellas, Real Alcázar
Azulejos for
Commercial Use
As techniques for making
and colouring azulejos
improved, their use was
extended from interior
decor to decorative signs
and shop façades. Even
billboards were produced in
multicoloured tiles. The eye-
catching results can still be
seen all over Andalusia.
Sign for the Royal Tobacco Factory (now part of the Universidad, see pp100–101)
made in painted glazed tiles in the 18th century
Contemporary glazed Azulejo billboard advertising the latest model of Studebaker Motor Cars (1924),
ceramic beer tap situated on Calle Tetuán, off Calle Sierpes (see p78)
S A N TA C R U Z 81
Genoan fountain and Gothic balustrades in the Mudéjar Patio Principal of the Casa de Pilatos
6 Casa de Pilatos surrounded by irregularly the apartments on the upper

Plaza de Pilatos 1. Map 4 D1 (6 E3).
spaced arches capped with floor. It is roofed with a
Tel 954 22 52 98. # 9am–6pm daily delicate Gothic balustrades. In wonderful media naranja (half
(to 7pm Jul & Aug). & 8 1st floor. its corners stand three Roman orange) cupola built in 1537.
7 ground floor. ∑ fundacion statues, Minerva, a dancing There are Mudéjar ceilings in
medinaceli.org muse and Ceres, and a Greek some rooms, which are filled
fourth statue, a 5th-century BC with family portraits, antiques
In 1518 the first Marquess of original of the goddess Athena. and furniture. Plasterwork by
Tarifa departed on a Grand Tour In its centre is a fountain Juan de Oviedo and frescoes
of Europe and the Holy Land. imported from Genoa. To by Francisco de Pacheco still
He returned two years the right, through the Salón survive in rooms, which bear
later, enraptured by the del Pretorio with its coffered these artists’ names.
architectural and decorative ceiling and marquetry, is the West of the Casa de Pilatos,
wonders of High Renais- Corredor de Zaquizamí. the Plaza de San Ildefonso is
sance Italy. He spent the Among the antiquities bounded by the Convento de
rest of his life creating a in adjacent rooms are San Leandro, famous for the
new aesthetic, which a bas-relief of Leda and yemas (sweets made from egg
was very influential. His the Swan and two yolks) sold from a torno (drum).
palace in Seville, called Roman reliefs com- Opposite the convent is the
the House of Pilate memorating the Battle Neo-Classical Iglesia de San
because it was thought of Actium in BC 31. Ildefonso, which has statues
to resemble Pontius Further along, in the of San Hermenegildo and San
Pilate’s home in Lantern in the Jardín Chico there is Fernando by Pedro Roldán.
Jerusalem, became a entrance portal a pool with a bronze
luxurious showcase of Bacchus.
for the new style. Coming back to the Patio
Over the centuries, subsequent Principal, you turn right into the
owners added their own embel- Salón de Descanso de los Jueces.
lishments. The Casa de Pilatos is Beyond this is a rib-vaulted
now the residence of the Dukes chapel, which has a sculpture
of Medinaceli and is still one of dating from the 1st century AD,
the finest palaces in Seville. Christ and the Good Shepherd.
Visitors enter it through a Left through the Gabinete de
marble portal, commissioned Pilatos, with its small central
by the Marquess in 1529 from fountain, is the Jardín Grande.
Genoan craftsmen. Across the The Italian architect, Benvenuto
arcaded Apeadero (carriage Tortello, created the loggias in
yard) is the Patio Principal. This the 1560s.
courtyard is essentially Mudéjar Returning once more to the
(see p28) in style with azulejos main patio, behind the statue of Escutcheons in the coffered
and intricate plasterwork. It is Ceres, a tiled staircase leads to ceiling of the Salón del Pretorio
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7 Seville Cathedral and La Giralda

Seville’s cathedral occupies the site of a great
mosque built by the Almohads (see pp50–51) in
the late 12th century. La Giralda, its bell tower,
and the Patio de los Naranjos are a legacy of
this Moorish structure. Work on the Christian
cathedral, the largest in Europe, began in 1401
and took just over a century to complete. As
well as enjoying its Gothic immensity and the
works of art in its chapels and Treasury, visitors
can climb La Giralda for superb views over
the city, or enjoy views of the city from the
cathedral rooftop (reservations necessary).
. La Giralda
The Rise of La Giralda The bell tower is
The minaret was finished in 1198. In the 14th century crowned by a bronze
the original Muslim bronze spheres at its top were weathervane (giraldillo)
replaced by Christian symbols. In 1568 Hernán depicting Faith, from
Ruiz added the Renaissance belfry, which blends which it takes its name.
perfectly with the Moorish base. A replica has replaced
the original vane.
Group entrance
1198 1400 1557 (plan) 1568
KEY
1 Roman pillars brought from

Itálica (see p136) surround the
cathedral steps.
2 Puerta del Perdón
3 The Sacristía Mayor houses
many works of art, including
paintings by Murillo.
4 The Tomb of Columbus dates
from the 1890s. His coffin is carried
by bearers representing the
kingdoms of Castile, León, Aragón . Patio de
and Navarra. los Naranjos
In Moorish times
5 Puerta del Bautismo
worshippers would
6 Iglesia del Sagrario, a large wash hands and
17th-century chapel, is now used feet in the fountain
as a parish church. under the orange
trees before praying.
S A N TA C R U Z 83
Practical Information
Avenida de la Constitucion s/n.
Retablo Mayor Map 3 C2 (5 C4). Tel 902 09 96 92.
Santa María de la Sede, Open Cathedral & La Giralda:
the cathedral’s patron 11am–3:30pm Mon, 11am–5pm
saint, sits at the high Tue–Sat, 2:30–6pm Sun. & 8
altar below a waterfall of 7 5 Cathedral: 8–10:30am
gold. The 44 gilded relief (8–9am in summer); Capilla Real:
panels of the retablo 8am–2pm, 4–7pm.
were carved by Spanish ∑ catedraldesevilla.es
and Flemish sculptors
Transport
between 1482 and 1564.
v Archivo de Indias.
 Puerta de Jerez.
Main entrance
Puerta de la Asunción
Though Gothic in style, this portal
was not completed until 1833.
A stone relief of the Assumption
of the Virgin decorates
the tympanum.
. Capilla Mayor
The overwhelming, golden
Retablo Mayor in the main chapel
is enclosed by monumental iron
grilles forged in 1518–32.
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is honoured by a Baroque
column beside the Archivo de
Indias. In the centre of the Plaza
del Triunfo a monument comm-
emorates Seville’s belief in the
Immaculate Conception.
In Calle Santo Tomás, off the
southeastern corner of the Plaza
del Triunfo, lies a building used
by the Archivo de Indias.
Formerly the Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo – now in the
Monasterio de Santa Mariá de
las Cuevas (see p109) – the
building is no longer open to
the public. Dating from 1770, it
was once a barn where tithes
collected by the Church were
stored. Parts of the Moorish city
walls were uncovered during
the renovation of the building.
0 Archivo de Indias
Avda de la Constitución s/n.
Map 3 C2 (6 D5). v Archivo de
Indias. Puerta de Jerez. Tel 954 50
Baroque façade of the Palacio Arzobispal 05 28. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
10am– 2pm Sun.
8 Plaza Virgen de the square is the whitewashed
Convento de la Encarnación,
los Reyes which was founded in 1591.
Map 3 C2 (6 D4). Palacio Arzobispal The convent stands on grounds
Closed to the public. Convento de la that have also been the site of
Encarnación Closed to the public. a mosque and of a hospital.
The Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
The perfect place to pause for was once home to the Corral
a while and admire the Giralda de los Olmos, a rogues’ inn
(see p82), this plaza presents an which features in the writings
archetypal Sevillian tableau: of Miguel de Cervantes (see p55)
horse-drawn carriages, orange – on one of the convent walls a
trees, flower-sellers and plaque bears an inscription
imposing religious buildings. testifying to this.
At its centre is an early 20th-
century monumental lamppost
and fountain by José Lafita, with 9 Plaza del Triunfo Façade of the Archivo de Indias by
grotesque heads copied from Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
Juan de Herrera
Roman originals in the Casa de
Pilatos (see p81). Lying between the cathedral The archive of the Indies punches
At the north of the square (see pp82–3) and the Real home Seville’s pre-eminent role in
is the Palacio Arzobispal Alcázar (see pp86–7), the Plaza the colonization and exploitation
(Archbishop’s Palace), begun del Triunfo was built to celebrate of the New World. Built between
in the 16th century, finished in the triumph of the city over an 1584–98 to designs by Juan de
the 18th, and commandeered earthquake in 1755. The quake Herrera, co-architect of El Escorial
by Marshal Soult during the devastated the city of Lisbon, near Madrid, it was originally a
Napoleonic occupation of over the border in Portugal, lonja (exchange), where
1810 (see pp56–7). A fine but caused comparatively merchants traded. In 1785, Carlos
Baroque palace, little damage III had all Spanish documents
it has a jasper in Seville – relating to the “Indies” collected
staircase and a salvation under one roof, creating a
paintings by attributed to fascinating archive. It contains
Zurbarán and the city’s great letters from Columbus, Cortés,
Murillo. On the Decorative Giralda relief on the devotion to the Cervantes, and George
opposite side of Archivo de Indias Virgin Mary. She Washington, the first American
S A N TA C R U Z 85
president, and the extensive In the sacristy, the ceiling has an

correspondence of Felipe II. The effective trompe l’oeil depicting
vast collection amounts to some The Triumph of the Cross by Juan
86 million handwritten pages de Valdés Leal.
and 8,000 maps and drawings.
An extensive programme of
document digitization is ongoing. e Jardines
Visitors to the Archivo de de Murillo
Indias climb marble stairs to Map 4 D2 (6 E5).
library rooms where drawings
and maps are exhibited in a These formal gardens at the
reverential atmosphere. Displays southern end of the Barrio de
change on a regular basis; one Santa Cruz once used to be
might include a watercolour orchards and vegetable plots
map from the days when the in the grounds of the Real
city of Acapulco was little more Alcázar. They were donated to
than a castle, drawings the city in 1911. Their name
recording a royal corrida commemorates Seville’s best-
(bullfight) held in Panama City known painter, Bartolomé Monument to Columbus in the
in 1748 or designs and plans for Murillo (1617–82), who lived Jardines de Murillo
a town hall in Guatemala. in nearby Calle Santa Teresa.
A long promenade, Paseo de above the garden’s palm trees is
Catalina de Ribera, pays tribute a monument to Columbus,
q Real Alcázar to the founder of the Hospital incorporating a bronze of the
See pp86–7.
de las Cinco Llagas, which is Santa María, the caravel that
now the seat of the Parlamento bore him to the New World in
de Andalucía (see p93). Rising the year of 1492 (see p131).
w Hospital de
los Venerables
Plaza de los Venerables 8. Map 3 C2 (6
D4). v Archivo de Indias. Tel 954 56
26 96. Open 10am–1:30pm, 4–7:30pm
daily. & except Sun evening. 7 8
Located in the heart of the

Barrio de Santa Cruz, the
Hospital of the Venerables was
founded as a home for elderly
priests. It was begun in 1675
and completed around 20 years
later by Leonardo de Figueroa. It
has been restored as a cultural
centre by FOCUS (Fundación
Fondo de Cultura de Sevilla).
It is built around a central,
sunken patio. The upper floors,
along with the infirmary and
the cellar, are used as galleries
for exhibitions. A separate
guided tour visits the hospital
church, a showcase of Baroque
splendours, with frescoes by
Juan de Valdés Leal and his son
Lucas Valdés.
Other highlights include the
sculptures of St Peter and St
Ferdinand by Pedro Roldán,
flanking the east door; and The
Apotheosis of St Ferdinand by
Lucas Valdés, top centre in the
retablo of the main altar. Its
frieze (inscribed in Greek)
advises visitors to “Fear God and
Honour the Priest”. Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables
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q Real Alcázar
In 1364 Pedro I (see p52) ordered the construction of a royal
residence within the palaces built by the city’s Almohad rulers
(see pp50–51). Within two years, craftsmen from Granada and
Toledo had created a jewel box of Mudéjar patios and halls,
the Palacio Pedro I, which now forms the heart of Seville’s
Real Alcázar. Later monarchs added their own distinguishing
marks – Isabel I (see p52) despatched navigators to explore the
New World from her Casa de la Contratación, while Carlos V
(see p54) had grandiose, richly decorated apartments built.
Gardens of the Alcázar

Laid out with terraces, fountains
and pavilions, these gardens provide
a delightful refuge from the heat and
bustle of Seville.
. Salones de Carlos V
Vast tapestries and lively
16th-century azulejos
decorate the vaulted
halls of the apartments
and chapel of Carlos V.
KEY
1 Patio del Crucero lies above

the old baths.
2 Jardín de Troya
3 Casa de la Contratación
4 The façade of the Palacio Pedro I
is a unique example of Mudéjar style.
5 The Patio de la Montería
was where the court met before . Patio de las Doncellas
hunting expeditions. The Patio of the Maidens boasts
plasterwork by the top
craftsmen of Granada.
S A N TA C R U Z 87
. Salón de Embajadores VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Built in 1427, the dazzling
dome of the Ambassadors’
Hall is made up of carved and
Patio de Banderas. Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
gilded interlaced wood.
Tel 954 50 23 24. Open 9:30am–
7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 5pm). &
Transport
v Archivo de Indias.  Puerta
de Jerez. @ C3, C4, C5.
Night visits with re-enactments
& Buy tickets in advance:
∑ alcazarsevilla.org
Horseshoe Arches
Azulejos and complex
plasterwork decorate the
Ambassadors’ Hall, which has
three symmetrically arranged,
ornate archways, each with
three horseshoe arches.
Puerta del
León (entrance)
Patio de las Muñecas

With its adjacent bedrooms
and corridors, the Patio of the
Dolls was the domestic heart
of the palace. It derives its
name from two tiny faces that
decorate one of its arches.
Plan of the
Real Alcázar
The complex includes
the Palacio Pedro I
and Spanish
National Trust
offices. The
palace’s upper
floor is used by
the Spanish
royal family
Key during visits to
Patio del Yeso the city.
Area illustrated above
The Patio of Plaster, a garden with flower
beds and a water channel, retains features of Gardens
the earlier, 12th-century Almohad Alcázar.
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LA MACARENA
The north of Seville, often overlooked by modern church stands a restored entrance
visitors, presents a characterful mix of gate and remnants of defensive walls, which
decaying Baroque and Mudéjar churches, old- enclosed the city during the Moorish era.
style neighbourhood tapas bars and washing- Among many churches and convents
filled back streets. Its name is thought to in this quarter, the Monasterio de San
derive from the Roman goddess, Macaria, the Clemente and Iglesia de San Pedro retain the
daughter of the hero Hercules. La Macarena is spirit of historic Seville, while the Convento
a traditional district and the power of church de Santa Paula offers a rare opportunity to
and family is still strong there. peep behind the walls of a closed religious
The futuristic Metropol Parasol, a buzzing community. The 13th-century Torre de Don
urban space opened in 2011, makes for a Fadrique in Convento de Santa Clara is a
surprising gateway into the area, otherwise notable sight in the western part of the area.
best defined by the Basílica de la Macarena, Further north is the former Hospital de
an important shrine to Seville’s venerated las Cinco Llagas, now restored as the seat
Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. Beside this of Andalusia’s Parliament.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Convents Boulevards Monuments
1 Monasterio de San Clemente 3 Alameda de Hércules 7 Murallas
2 Torre de Don Fadrique Historic Buildings Modern Architecture
4 Basílica de la Macarena
5 Cámara Oscura w Metropol Parasol
8 Iglesia de San Marcos
6 Parlamento de
9 Convento de Santa Paula
Andalucía Restaurants p229
0 Iglesia de San Pedro
q Iglesia de Santa Catalina 1 Contenedor
2 Espacio Eslava
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Revered weeping statue of the Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena, Basílica de la Macarena

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Street-by-Street: La Macarena
A stroll in this area provides a glimpse of everyday life in a
part of Seville that has so far escaped developing the rather
tourist-oriented atmosphere of Santa Cruz. Calle de la Feria,
the main street for shopping and browsing, is best visited in
the morning when there is plenty of activity and its market
stalls are filled with fresh fish and vegetables. Early evening,
meanwhile, is a good time to discover the area’s large
number of fine churches, which are open for Mass at that Palacio de las Dueñas
time. It is also the time when local people visit the bars of Boxed in by the surrounding houses,
the district for a drink and tapas. this 15th-century Mudéjar palace has
an elegant patio. It is the private
residence of the Dukes of Alba,
whose tiled coat of arms can be seen
above the palace entrance.
Iglesia San Juan de la

Palma is a small Mudéjar
church. Its brickwork AR
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belfry was added in 1788. S TE
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Calle de la Feria
On Thursday mornings, El Jueves,
TO
Seville’s oldest market, takes place

on this street full of shops.
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The church where Velázquez was In Convento

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baptized is a mix of styles, from de Santa Inés

the nuns make
UZ
Mudéjar to these modern tiles

decorating its front. and sell cakes.
Key
Suggested route
LA MACARENA 91
8 . Iglesia de San Marcos

This 14th-century church, built on
r
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the site of a mosque, has a Mudéjar
qu
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tower and a beautiful Mudéjar-
ad
LA MACARENA
Gu
Gothic portal. The interior preserves
unique horseshoe arches.
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9 . Convento
San Román is a de Santa Paula
AS 19th-century Mudéjar- The convent church portal
PEÑUEL Gothic church with a blends Gothic, Mudéjar and
fine coffered ceiling. Renaissance architecture.
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El Rinconcillo
TERCEROS
This bar is said to be the place where
tapas were first invented. Dating
back to 1670 it has a suitably old-
fashioned atmosphere and a
fine selection of food.
q Iglesia de
Santa Catalina
Gothic Santa Catalina has a
Mudéjar tower and apse
and, inside, a statue of 0 metres 75
Santa Lucía, patron saint of
the blind, by Roldán. 0 yards 75
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1 Monasterio de
San Clemente
Calle Reposo 9. Map 1 C3. @ C3, C4.
Tel 954 37 80 40. Church Open for Mass
only: 7am, 9:30am, 1:15pm, 3pm,
6:15pm, 8:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am Sun.
∑ sanclementesevilla.com
Behind the ancient walls of the

Monasterio de San Clemente is
a tranquil cloister and an arcade
with a side entrance to the
monastery’s church.
This atmospheric church can
also be entered through an arch
in Calle Reposo. Its features range
from the 13th to 18th centuries,
and include a fine Mudéjar
artesonado ceiling, azulejos
(see p80) dating from 1588, a
Baroque main retablo by Felipe
de Rivas and early 18th-century
frescoes by Lucas Valdés.
2 Torre de Don
Fadrique Marble columns at the southern end of Alameda de Hércules
Convento de Santa Clara, Calle Santa
like a chess-piece castle in the 3 Alameda de
Clara 40. Map 1 C4. Tel 955 47 13 02.
Open by appointment only for tours Convento de Santa Clara. This is Hércules
at 11am, 12:30pm, 5:30pm & 7:30pm entered from Calle Santa Clara,
passing through an arch to a Map 2 D4.
Mon–Sat, 11am & 12:30pm Sun.
patio with a fountain. To the left
One of the best-preserved is a second courtyard, where This tree-lined boulevard was
historical surprises in Seville, the tower is hidden away. The originally laid out in 1574. The
this 13th-century tower stands Gothic entrance to the former marshy area was thus
courtyard was built during the turned into a fashionable
16th century as part of Seville’s promenade for use by sevillanos
first university and transplanted of the Golden Age (see pp54–5).
here in the 19th century. Since the relocation of the
Constructed in 1252, the Sunday morning flea
tower formed part of the market to Charco de
defences for the palace la Pava (see p108),
of the Infante Don efforts have been
Fadrique. On the made to improve
façade Romanesque the Alameda,
windows sit below and these days
Gothic ones. More it is a trendy, clean
than 80 steps lead to Gargoyle on the Torre area with a certain
the upper floor, from de Don Fadrique bohemian charm.
which there are views At the southern
across the city towards La Giralda end of the boulevard stand
and Puente de la Barqueta. two marble columns. They
The convent of Santa Clara were brought here from a
was founded in 1260, though Roman temple dedicated to
the present buildings date from Hercules in what is now Calle
the 15th century. The Mannerist Mármoles (Marbles Street),
entrance portico is by Juan de where three other columns
Oviedo. Inside, the nave has a remain. Time-worn statues of
Mudéjar coffered ceiling and Hercules and Julius Caesar cap
an outstanding main retablo the Alameda’s columns.
Torre de Don Fadrique in the patio of sculpted by Juan Martínez The area boasts an eclectic mix
Convento de Santa Clara Montañés in 1623. of bars, restaurants and cafés.
LA MACARENA 93
4 Basílica de la
Virgen de la Macarena
Macarena
Devotions to the Virgen de
Calle Bécquer 1. Map 2 D3. @ C1, la Macarena reach their peak
C2, C3, C4. Tel 954 37 01 95. during Semana Santa
Open 9am–2pm, 5–9pm daily. (see p42), when her statue is
Treasury Open same times as the borne through the streets on
basílica. Closed Easter hols. & a canopied float decorated
The Basílica de la Macarena with swathes of white flowers,
was built in 1949 in the Neo- candles and ornate silverwork.
Accompanied by hooded
Baroque style by Gómez Millán
penitents and cries of ¡guapa!
as a new home for the much-
(beautiful!) from her followers,
loved Virgen de la Esperanza the virgin travels along a
Macarena. It butts on to the route from the Basílica de
13th-century Iglesia de San Gil, la Macarena to the cathedral
where the Virgin was housed (see pp82–3) in the early
until a fire in 1936. hours of Good Friday.
The image of the Virgin Float of the Virgen de la Macarena in
stands above the main altar Semana Santa processions
amid waterfalls of gold and
silver. It has been attributed to
Luisa Roldán (1656–1703). The 5 Cámara Oscura
wall-paintings by Rafael
C/ Resolana s/n. Map 2 D3.
Rodríguez Hernández have Open noon–5pm Tue–Sun (but
themes focusing on the Virgin. closed when raining). Tel 954 90 93
In the museum housed in the 53. ∑ torredelosperdigones.com
Treasury there are magnificent
processional garments as well The camera obscura at the
as gowns made from trajes de Tower of Perdigones has
luces (suits of lights), donated fantastic views of the 1992
by famous and no doubt World Expo fairground, Cartuja Renaissance façade and Baroque portal of
grateful bullfighters. The floats Island and the Guadalquivir Parlamento de Andalucía
used in Semana Santa (see p42), river. It projects real time
among them La Macarena’s images, with movement, by 6 Parlamento de
elaborate silver platform, can using mirrors and magnifying Andalucía
also be admired. glasses over a periscope.
C/ Parlamento de Andalucia s/n.
Map 2 E3. Open By written
application or call the protocol office.
Tel 954 59 59 29. 7 8
∑ parlamentodeandalucia.es
The Parliament of Andalusia has

its seat in an impressive Renais-
sance building, the Hospital de
las Cinco Llagas (five wounds).
The hospital, founded in 1500
by Catalina de Ribera, was
originally sited near Casa de
Pilatos. In 1540 work began on
the new site, on what was to
become Europe’s largest
hospital. Designed by a suc-
cession of architects, its south
front has a Baroque central
portal by Asensio de Maeda.
The hospital was completed
in 1613, and admitted patients
until the 1960s. In 1992 it was
restored for the Parliament.
At the heart of the complex,
the Mannerist church, built by
Hernán Ruiz the Younger in
1560, makes up the
Virgen de la Macarena – the main reredos in Basílica de la Macarena debating chamber.
www.ebook3000.com
7 Murallas windows of the second door

look onto the nuns’ cloister,
Map 2 E3.
which echoes with laughter in
A section of the defensive walls the afternoon recreation hour.
that once enclosed Seville The nuns make a phenomenal
survives along calles Andueza range of marmalades and jams,
and Muñoz León. It runs from which visitors may purchase in a
the rebuilt Puerta de la Macarena room near the exit.
at the Basílica de la Macarena Ring the bell by a brick
(see p93) to the Puerta de doorway nearby to visit the
Córdoba some 400 m (1,300 ft) convent church, reached by
further east. crossing a meditative garden. Its
Dating from the 12th portal vividly combines Gothic
century, it was constructed as a arches, Mudéjar brickwork,
curtain wall with a patrol path Renaissance medallions, and
in the middle. The original walls The Gothic-Mudéjar portal of the ceramics by the Italian artist,
had over 100 towers; the Torre 14th-century Iglesia de San Marcos Nicola Pisano. Inside, the nave
Blanca is one of seven that can has an elaborate wooden roof
be seen here. At the eastern In the plaza at the back of the carved in 1623. Among its statues
end stands the 17th-century church is the Convento de are St John the Evangelist and
Iglesia de San Hermenegildo, Santa Isabel, founded in 1490. It St John the Baptist, carved by
named after the Visigothic king became a women’s prison in the Juan Martínez Montañés.
who was allegedly martyred on 19th century. The church dates
the site. On the southern from 1609. Its Baroque portal,
corner of this church, remains facing onto Plaza de Santa
of Moorish arches can be seen. Isabel, has a bas-relief of The
Visitation by Andrés de Ocampo.
8 Iglesia de
San Marcos 9 Convento de
Plaza de San Marcos. Map 2 E5 (6 E1).

Santa Paula
Tel 954 50 26 16. Open 7:30–8:30pm C/ Santa Paula 11. Map 2 E5 (6 F1).
(to 8pm in winter) Mon–Sat, Tel 954 53 63 30. Open 10:30am–
12:30pm Sun. 12:30pm Tue–Sun. 8 &
This 14th-century church retains Seville has many enclosed

several Mudéjar features, notably religious complexes, but few
its Giralda-like tower (based on are accessible. This is one of
the minaret of an earlier them, a convent set up in 1475
mosque) and the decoration on and still home to 40 nuns. The
the Gothic portal on Plaza de public is welcome to enter
San Marcos. The restoration of through two different doors in
the interior, gutted by fire in the Calle Santa Paula. Bang on
1936, has highlighted unique the brown one, marked No. 11,
horseshoe arches in the nave. to have a look at the convent
A statue of St Mark with book museum. Steps lead to two
and quill pen, attributed to Juan galleries crammed with religious St John the Baptist by Montañés in
de Mesa, is in the far left corner. paintings and artifacts. The the Convento de Santa Paula
Sevillian Bell Towers San Marcos San Pedro Santa Paula

Bell towers rise above the rooftops of
Seville like bookmarks flagging the
passing centuries. The influence of La
Giralda (see p82) is seen in the Moorish
arches and tracery adorning the
14th-century tower of San Marcos, and
the Mudéjar brickwork which forms the
base for San Pedro’s belfry. The churches
of Santa Paula and La Magdalena reflect
the ornate confidence of the Baroque
period, while the towers of San
Ildefonso illustrate the Neo-Classical
tastes of the 19th century.
LA MACARENA 95
Alhóndiga, the Gothic portal

is originally from the Iglesia de
Santa Lucía, which was knocked
down in 1930. Within its
entrance is a horseshoe arch.
At the far left end of the nave,
the Capilla Sacramental is by
Leonardo de Figueroa. On
the right, the Capilla de la
Exaltación has a decorative
ceiling, circa 1400, and a
figure of Christ by Pedro Roldán.
w Metropol Parasol
Plaza de la Encarnación. Map 2 D5
(6 D2). Tel 95 547 15 80 (Museum),
Intricate pattern on a chapel door in the Iglesia de San Pedro 954 56 15 12 (Observation decks
& skywalks). Open Observation
0 Iglesia de María Coronel, cakes and decks & skywalks: 10am–11pm
biscuits are sold from a Sun–Thu, 10am–11:30pm Fri & Sat.
San Pedro revolving drum in the wall of Antiquarium: 10am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
Plaza San Pedro. Map 2 D5 (6 E2). the Convento de Santa Inés. 10am–1:30pm Sun & public hols.
Tel 954 22 91 24. Open 9am, 11am, An arcaded patio fronts its & ∑ setasdesevilla.com
8pm Mon–Sat, 10am, 11am, noon, restored church, with frescoes
1pm Sun. 7 by Francisco de Herrera and a This ultra-modern structure,
nun’s choir separated from commonly referred to as “Las
The church where the painter the public by a screen. The Setas” (The Mushrooms), is a
Diego Velázquez was baptized preserved body of Doña María striking contrast of modern
in 1599 presents a typically Coronel, the convent’s 14th- architecture and astounding
Sevillian mix of architectural century founder, is honoured archeaological finds: the
styles. Mudéjar elements survive in the choir every 2 December. Observation Deck provides a
in the lobed brickwork of its soaring view of the city, with
tower, which is surmounted by skywalks circling around the
a Baroque belfry. The principal q Iglesia de core of gastrobars, while the first
portal, facing Plaza de San Santa Catalina floor has an open-air plaza,
Pedro, is another Baroque Plaza Ponce de Léon. Map 2 D5 (6 E2).
which hosts cultural events.
adornment added by Diego Tel 954 21 74 41. Closed for The market buzzes with life
de Quesada in 1613. A statue of restoration; end date not known. on the ground floor, and the
St Peter looks disdainfully down Antiquarium museum, housed
at the heathen traffic below. Built on the former site of a in the basement, showcases the
The poorly lit interior has a mosque, this 14th-century archeaological remains that
Mudéjar wooden ceiling and church has a Mudéjar tower were found when this project
west door. The vault of one of modelled on La Giralda (see began in 1973, with extensive
its chapels is decorated with p82), best viewed from Plaza Roman ruins from the Tiberius
exquisite geometric patterns Ponce de Léon, which has been era (c 14 AD–37 AD), and a
formed of interlacing bricks. spared the customary Baroque Moorish house from the 12th
Behind the church, in Calle Doña hat. On the west side, by Calle and 13th centuries.
La Magdalena (see p72) San Ildefonso

(see p81)
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PARQUE MARÍA LUISA

The area south of the city centre is Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. This
dominated by the extensive, leafy Parque international jamboree sought to reinstate
María Luisa, Seville’s principal green area. A Spain and Andalusia on the world map.
great part of it originally formed the grounds Exhibitions from Spain, Portugal and Latin
of the Baroque Palacio de San Telmo, dating America were displayed in attractive, purpose-
from 1682. Today the park is devoted to built pavilions that are today used as
recreation; with its fountains, flower gardens museums, embassies, military headquarters
and mature trees it provides a welcome place and also cultural and educational institutions.
to relax during the long, hot summer months. The grand five-star Hotel Alfonso XIII and
Just north of the park lies Prado de San the crescent-shaped Plaza de España are the
Sebastián, the former site of the quemadero, most striking legacies from this surge of
the platform where many victims of the Andalusian pride.
Inquisition (see p55) were burnt to death. Nearby is the Royal Tobacco Factory, forever
The last execution took place here in 1781. associated with the fictional gypsy heroine,
Many of the historic buildings situated Carmen, who toiled in its halls. Today it is part
within the park were erected for the of the Universidad, Seville’s university.
0 metres 400
Sights at a Glance
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Museums Gardens
6 Museo de Artes y 5 Parque María Luisa pp102–3
Costumbres Populares Historic Buildings
7 Museo Arqueológico
1 Hotel Alfonso XIII
Theatres 2 Palacio de San Telmo
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www.ebook3000.com
Street-by-Street: Around the Universidad

South of the Puerta de Jerez, a cluster of stately To Triana
buildings stands between the river and Parque María
Luisa. The oldest ones owe their existence to the
Guadalquivir itself – the 17th-century Palacio de San
Telmo was built as a training school for mariners,
while the arrival of tobacco from the New World
prompted the construction of the monumental Royal
Tobacco Factory, today the Universidad de Sevilla.
The 1929 Ibero-American Exposition added pavilions
in various national and historic styles and also the
opulent Hotel Alfonso XIII, creating an area of proud
and pleasing architecture that will entertain visitors
as they walk towards the Parque María Luisa. Paseo de las Delicias
This riverside walk flanks
the Jardines de San Telmo.
Its name means the
“walk of delights”.
Pabellón de
Chile is now the
Escuela de Artes
Pabellón de Perú Aplicadas (School
Modelled on the of Applied Arts).
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office, but the “Queen’s sewing box”
used to be a garden lodge.
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Monument to El Cano, who completed

Key
the first world circumnavigation in 1522
Suggested route after Magellan was killed on route.
PA R Q U E M A R Í A LU I S A 99
2 . Palacio de San Telmo

EL
ARENAL SANTA
This palace houses the Junta de CRUZ
Andalucía. Presiding over its
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1 Hotel Alfonso XIII

Seville’s premier hotel, with a
sumptuous Neo-Mudéjar
interior, welcomes non-guests to
have a drink in its elegant bar.
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To Parque María Luisa
3 . Universidad
The vast 18th-century former
Royal Tobacco Factory has
many fine features, including
this Baroque fountain.
4 Teatro Lope de Vega
This grandiose theatre and
casino, the 1929 Pabellón de
Sevilla, is now a major venue for
staging concerts and shows.
www.ebook3000.com
1 Hotel
Alfonso XIII
Calle San Fernando 2. Map 3 C3 (6 D5).
v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta Jerez.
Tel 954 91 70 00. 7 except toilets.
∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-sevilla.com
At the southeast corner of

Puerta de Jerez is Seville’s
best-known luxury hotel,
named after King Alfonso XIII
who reigned 1902–31, when
Spain became a republic. It was
built between 1916–28 for
visitors to the 1929 Ibero- Central patio with fountain in the elegant Hotel Alfonso XIII
American Exposition (see p59).
The building is in Regionalista included what is now the 3 Universidad
style, decorated with azulejos Parque María Luisa (pp102–3).
Calle San Fernando 4. Map 3 C3.
(see p80), wrought iron and The palace became a seminary v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta de Jerez.
ornate brickwork. Its centre- in 1901, and today it is the Tel 954 55 10 00. Open 8am–8:30pm
piece is a grand colonnaded presidential headquarters of Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.
patio with a fountain and the regional government. ∑ us.es
orange trees. Non-residents are The palace’s star feature is the
welcome to visit one of the exuberant Churrigueresque portal The former Real Fábrica de
hotel’s bars or restaurants. overlooking Avenida de Roma by Tabacos (Royal Tobacco Factory)
Antonio Matías de Figueroa, is now part of Seville University.
completed in 1734. Surrounding It was a popular attraction for
the Ionic columns are alle- 19th-century travellers in
gorical figures of the Arts search of Romantic Spain.
and Sciences. St Telmo Three-quarters of
can be seen holding a Europe’s cigars were
ship and charts, then manufactured
flanked by the sword- here, rolled on the
bearing St Ferdinand thighs of over 3,000
and St Hermenegildo cigarreras (female
with a cross. The north cigar-makers), who
façade, which is on were said “to be more
Avenida de Palos de la Façade detail of the impertinent than
Frontera, is crowned Universidad chaste”, as the writer
by a row of Sevillian Richard Ford observed
celebrities. These sculptures in his 1845 Handbook for Spain.
were added in 1895 by Susillo. The factory complex is the
Churrigueresque adornments of the portal Among them are representations largest building in Spain after El
of Palacio de San Telmo of several notable artists. Escorial in Madrid and was built
2 Palacio de Carmen
San Telmo The hot blooded cigarreras
Avenida de Roma s/n. Map 3 C3. working in Seville’s Royal Tobacco
v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta de Jerez. Factory inspired the French author,
Tel 955 00 10 10. Open Thu, Sat & Sun Prosper Mérimée, to create his
by appointment only. ^ 7 8 famous gypsy heroine, Carmen.
∑ juntadeandalucia.es The short story he wrote in 1845
tells the tragic tale of a sensual
This imposing palace was built and wild woman who turns her
affections from a soldier to a
in 1682 to serve as a marine
bullfighter and is then murdered
university, training navigators
by her spurned lover. Bizet based
and high-ranking officers. It is his famous opera of 1875 on this
named after St Telmo, patron impassioned drama, which
saint of navigators. In 1849 the established Carmen as an
palace became the residence incarnation of Spanish romance.
of the Dukes of Montpensier – Carmen and Don José
until 1893 its vast grounds
between 1728–71. The moat There is also an informative

and watchtowers show the account of the history of the
importance given to protecting azulejo. Upstairs is a display of
the king’s lucrative tobacco 19th-century costumes, furniture,
monopoly. To the right of the musical instruments and rural
main entrance is the former machinery. Romantic images of
prison where workers caught flamenco, bullfighting, and the
smuggling tobacco were kept. Semana Santa and Feria de Abril
To the left is the chapel, now (see p42) are a compendium of
used by university students. the Sevillian cliché.
The discovery of tobacco in the
New World is celebrated in the
principal portal, which has busts Dome of the Neo-Baroque Teatro Lope 7 Museo
of Columbus (see p131) and de Vega, opened in 1929 Arqueológico
Cortés. This part of the factory
Plaza de América, Parque María Luisa.
was once used as residential (see pp244–5). Visitors to the Café Map 4 D5. Tel 955 12 06 32.
quarters – to either side of the del Casino can relax and enjoy a Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
vestibule lie small patios with coffee amid its faded opulence. 9am–3:30pm Sun (Jun–mid-Sep:
plants and ironwork. Ahead, the 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun). ^ 7
Clock Patio and Fountain Patio
lead to the former working areas. 5 Parque María The Renaissance pavilion of the
The tobacco leaves were first Luisa 1929 Ibero-American Exposition
dried on the roof, then shredded See pp102–3.
is now Andalusia’s museum of
by donkey-powered mills below. archaeology. The basement
Production now takes place in a houses Paleolithic to early-
modern factory situated on the 6 Museo de Artes Roman exhibits, such as copies
other side of the river, by the of the remarkable Tartessian
Puente del Generalísimo. y Costumbres Carambolo treasures (see p47).
Populares This hoard of 6th-century BC
Pabellón Mudéjar, Parque María Luisa.
gold jewellery was discovered
Map 4 D5. Tel 955 54 29 51. Open near Seville in 1958.
9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Upstairs, the main galleries are
Sun (Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue– devoted to the Roman era, with
Sun). ^ 7 statues and fragments rescued
from Itálica (see p136). Highlights
Housed in the Mudéjar Pavilion include a 3rd-century BC mosaic
of the 1929 Ibero-American from Écija (see p137), a statue of
Exposition (see p59), this museum the Venus of Itálica and
is devoted to the popular arts sculptures of local-born emperors
and traditions of Andalusia. Trajan and Hadrian. The rooms
Exhibits in the basement include continue to Moorish Spain via
a series of workshop scenes Palaeo-Christian sarcophagi,
Baroque fountain in one of the patios detailing crafts such as leather- Visigothic relics and artifacts
in the Universidad work, ceramics and cooperage. from Medina Azahara (see p142).
4 Teatro Lope
de Vega
Avenida María Luisa s/n. Map 3 C3.
v &  Prado de San Sebastian.
Tel 955 47 28 28 (ticket office).
Open for performances only. 7
∑ teatrolopedevega.org.
Lope de Vega (1562–1635), often

called “the Spanish Shakespeare”,
wrote more than 1,500 plays.
This Neo-Baroque theatre which
honours him was opened in
1929 as a casino and theatre for
the Ibero-American Exposition
(see p59). Its colonnaded and
domed buildings are still used to
stage performances and plays Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares, the former Mudéjar Pavilion
www.ebook3000.com
5 Parque María Luisa

This vast park takes its name from Princess
María Luisa de Orléans, who donated part
of the grounds from the Palacio de San
Telmo (see p100) to the city in 1893. The
area was landscaped by Jean-Claude
Forestier, director of the Bois de Boulogne
in Paris, who created a leafy setting for the
pastiche pavilions of the 1929 Ibero-
American Exposition (see p59). The most
dazzling souvenirs from this extravaganza . Plaza de España
Tiled benches line this semicircular plaza,
are the Plaza de España and Plaza de centrepiece of the 1929 Exposition.
América, both the work of Anibal González,
which set the park’s theatrical mood.
Sprinkling fountains, flowers and
cool, tree-shaded avenues all go to
make this park a refreshing retreat
from the heat and dust of the city.
KEY
1 Glorieta de la Infanta has a

bronze statue honouring the park’s
benefactress, the Princess María Luisa
de Orléans.
2 Glorieta de Bécquer, is a tribute
to the Romantic Sevillian poet,
Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer (1836–70).
Allegorical figures, depicting the
phases of love, add charm to this
monument. It was sculpted by
Lorenzo Coullaut Valera in 1911.
3 Starting point for horse and Isleta de los Patos
carriage rides In the centre of the
park is a lake graced
4 Pabellón Real (the Royal Pavilion)
by ducks and swans.
5 The Monte Gurugú is a mini- A gazebo situated on
mountain with a tumbling waterfall. an island provides a
peaceful resting place.
Fuente de los Leones VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Ceramic lions guard this octagonal fountain,
which is surrounded by myrtle hedges. Its Practical Information
design was inspired by the fountain in the Map 4 D4. Museo de Artes y
Patio de los Leones at the Alhambra (see p199). Costumbres Populares & Museo
Arqueológico (p101). 7
Transport
v &  Prado de San Sebastian.
@ C1, C2, C3, C4, EA, 1, 3, 6, 21,
22, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31, 30, 34, 38, 41.
7. Museo Arqueológico
The Neo-Renaissance Pabellón
de las Bellas Artes today houses
a regional archaeological
museum. Many finds from
nearby Roman Itálica (see p136)
are among the exhibits.
6. Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares

The pavilions of Plaza de América evoke the triumph of the
Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Pabellón
Mudéjar houses a museum of Andalusian folk arts.
Ceramics
Brightly painted Sevillian ceramics from
Triana decorate the park in the form of
floral urns, tiled benches and playful frogs
and ducks placed around the fountains.
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ACROSS THE RIVER

On the west bank of the Guadalquivir, old In the 15th century, a Carthusian monastery
Seville meets the new. Since Roman times, was built in what was then a quiet area north
pottery has been made in Triana, an area of Triana – hence the name that the district
named after the emperor Trajan. It has acquired: Isla de la Cartuja. Later Columbus
traditionally been a working-class district, resided here, planning his future exploits.
famous for the bullfighters and flamenco Mainly due to this connection, La Cartuja was
artistes that came from its predominantly the site for Expo ’92 (see pp108–9). The
Roma (gypsy) community. With cobbled monastery buildings were restored and several
streets and shops selling ceramics, it still has pavilions of strikingly modern design built. The
an authentic, lived-in feel. Iglesia de Santa Ana majority of the pavilions now house offices; a
is a fine Mudéjar-Gothic church. From the branch of the University of Seville is also here.
riverside restaurants and bars along Calle Betis The Expo site has been redeveloped to include
there are views of Seville’s towers and belfries. the Isla Mágica theme park (see p108).
Sights at a Glance
Theme Parks Churches and Monasteries Key
1 Isla Mágica 4 Monasterio de Santa María
Seville city centre
2 Cartuja ’93 de las Cuevas
6 Iglesia de Nuestra
Greater Seville
Markets
Señora de la O Motorway
3 Charco de la Pava 7 Iglesia de Santa Ana Major road
Flea Market
Minor road
Traditional Areas
5 Triana pp106–7
0 kilometres 1
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Cádiz
Looking towards Triana district and the bell tower of Iglesia de Santa Ann at sunset For map symbols see back flap
www.ebook3000.com
5 Triana To Nuestra Señora Callejón de la

Named after the Roman emperor Trajan, this quarter has, de la O (see p109) Inquisición
since early times, been famous for its potteries. Plenty of
workshops still produce and sell tiles and ceramics. Once
Seville’s gypsy quarter, this barrio also has a reputation for
producing great bullfighters, sailors and flamenco artists.
It remains a traditional working-class district, with compact,
C
flower-filled streets and a tangibly independent atmosphere.
A
S
T
Visitors to Triana can buy tiles and wander through its narrow
IL
LA
streets during the day, and enjoy the lively bars and romantic
views across the Río Guadalquivir at night.
Cerámica Santa Ana
S
Founded in 1870, this S
O
A
P
is the best known of N
M
JO
CA
Triana’s tile shops.
R
It sells anything G
O
E
from replicas of N
LA
16th-century PLAZA
IL
DEL
T
tiles to ashtrays.
N
A A LT O Z A N O
A
G
N
O
O
T
D IN
VA
C
CO
JA
N
A
R
O
D
R
IG
O
DE
Plaza del Altozano TR
At the west end of Puente de IA
NA
Isabel II, this plaza features
glass-fronted, wrought-iron
balconies called miradores.
Santa Justa
and Santa Rufina
Two Christians working in
the Triana potteries in the
3rd century have become
Seville’s patron saints. The
city’s Roman rulers are said
to have thrown the young
women to the lions after they
refused to join a procession
venerating Venus. This
martyrdom has inspired
many works by Sevillian
artists, including Murillo and
Zurbarán (see pp70–71). The Calle Rodrigo de Triana
saints are often shown This street in white and ochre is
with the Giralda, which, named after the Andalusian sailor
Santa Justa and Santa Rufina as apparently, they protected who first caught sight of the New
from an earthquake in 1755. World on Columbus’s epic voyage
represented by Murillo (c.1665)
of 1492 (see p131).
ACROSS THE RIVER 107
Capillita del Carmen

LA MACARENA
A chapel, built by
Puente de
Anibal González in
Isabel II, also
1926, stands at the EL ARENAL
known as SANTA
west end of Puente
Puente de CRUZ
de Isabel II, an iron
G
Triana, leads
ua
bridge designed by
da
l
to El Arenal.
qu
ivi
Gustavo Steinacher
r
ACROSS
and Fernando THE RIVER
Bernadet in 1845.
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 3
Calle Betis, a hub of nightlife,

lined with bars, cafés and clubs.
C Capilla de los
A
L Marineros, a sailors’
L
E chapel, was built
B
E between 1759 and 1815.
IS
T
C
A
L
L
E
D
Calle Pelay Correa
E
Hung with flowers and often

LA
washing, these narrow streets evoke

P
the close-knit flavour of old Triana.

U
A
T
R
O
EZ
L
O
F
G Abades Triana,
U
L with its terrace
N
A overlooking the
JU river, is renowned
S for its creative
O
cuisine (see p229).
IJ
R
R
O
E
RT
A
U
D
PE
LA
Y
CO
RR
EA
Key
7 Iglesia de Santa Ana
Founded in the 13th century Suggested route
by Alfonso X, this is the oldest
parish church in Seville. Triana’s 0 metres 75
most popular place of worship,
it has been splendidly restored. 0 yards 75
www.ebook3000.com
head also for The Anaconda,

a flume ride, and The Orinoco
Rapids on which small boats are
buffeted in swirling water. The
Fountain of Youth is designed
for children, with carousels and
fighting pirates.
For an additional fee, Agua
Mágica offers four zones of
water-based fun. Playa Quetzal
has a large swimming pool with
simulated waves and a beach;
Isla de Tobagones is a maze of
waterslides; Rio Lento features
A thrill ride at the Isla Mágica theme park a slow-moving river that visitors
can float down; and Mini Paraiso
1 Isla Mágica has a pool and smaller slides
aimed at younger children.
Pabellón de España, Isla de la Cartuja.
Map 1 B3. Tel 902 16 17 16. Open
Shows in the park include
varies, see website for opening hours street performances and dance The Pabellón de Europa, built on
(which change throughout the year) shows as well as IMAX cinema Isla de la Cartuja for Expo ’92
as well as package deals (hotel and screenings. Check the Isla
park entry). & ∑ islamagica.es Magica website for up-to-date University, which has links with
information on shows and times. Cartuja ’93. To its south lie the
Opened in 1997, the popular gardens surrounding the
Isla Mágica theme park ancient Monasterio de Santa
occupies part of the Isla de la 2 Cartuja ’93 María de las Cuevas, now
Cartuja site redeveloped for housing a contemporary art
Paseo del Oeste (renamed Calle
Expo ’92 (see pp60–61). Leonardo da Vinci). Map 1 A3. museum (see p109).
The park recreates the exploits
of the explorers who set out This science and technology
from Seville in the 16th century park occupies the western side 3 Charco de la
on voyages of discovery to the of the Expo ’92 site. Visitors can Pava Flea Market
New World. The first of the walk along Calle Leonardo da Open Sat & Sun am.
seven zones which visitors Vinci and the service roads for
experience is Seville, Port of the close-up views of some of Expo Situated beyond the Olympic
Indies, followed by the Gateway ’92’s most spectacular pavilions. Stadium, along the River
to the Americas, the World of These buildings, however, now Guadalquivir, is the Charco
the Maya, the Pirate’s Lair, El part of the Andalusian World de La Pava flea market. The
Dorado and Agua Mágica. The Trade Centre, belong to public market occupies a large open
Jaguar is the most thrilling ride and private companies and are space on the far side of the
for visitors – a rollercoaster closed to visitors. Groups of Cartuja and is held on Sunday
hurtling at 85 km/h (53 mph) buildings south and east of the mornings and Saturdays. It is
along its looping course, but Parque Alamillo are part of Seville a popular spot among locals
and tourists who come here
for a leisurely browse through
the bric-a-brac. Stretched out
along the ground are all
manner of goods for sale, from
rusty farming tools to brass
ornaments, paintings and old
photographs. The market was,
for many years, held at
Alameda de Hércules (see p92)
in the Macarena area in
Northern Seville.
Despite its proximity to the
city centre, Charco de la Pava,
and the area immediately
surrounding it, has little in the
way of cafés and restaurants,
so stock up with a hearty
breakfast before heading out
Reconstructed wooden ship at the Isla Mágica theme park in search of a bargain.
ACROSS THE RIVER 109
Main entrance of the Carthusian Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas, founded in 1400
4 Monasterio Contemporaneo. The centre’s enter. On the other side of the

permanent collection is mostly high altar is a fine group by
de Santa María by 20th-century Andalusian Pedro Roldán depicting St
de las Cuevas artists while its temporary Anne, St Joachim and Mary,
Calle Americo Vespucio 2, Isla de la exhibitions include paintings, the Virgin; a Jesus of Nazareth
Cartuja. Map 1 A4. Tel 955 03 70 70. photographs, installations and bearing his cross in the main
Monastery & Centro Andaluz de Arte performance art by international chapel on the far wall is also
Contemporaneo Open 11am–9pm artists. Past exhibitions have by the same sculptor.
Tue–Sat, 11am–3pm Sun & public featured everything from The church is in Calle de
hols. & (free Tue–Fri 7–9pm & sculpture to digital art. Castilla, whose name comes
11am–9pm Sat). 7 8 from the notorious castle in
∑ museosdeandalucia.es Triana where the Inquisition
5 Triana had its headquarters from the
This huge complex, which was 16th century. The Callejón de la
See pp106–7.
built by the Carthusian monks Inquisición, a nearby alley, leads
in the 15th century, is closely down to the river.
tied to Seville’s history. Columbus
stayed and worked here, and
even lay buried in the crypt of 7 Iglesia de
the church, Capilla Santa Ana, Santa Ana
from 1507 to 1542. The Car- C/ de la Pureza 84. Map 3 B2. Tel 954
thusians lived here until 1836 27 08 85. Open 10:30am–1:30pm
and commissioned some of the Mon–Fri (also 4:30–6:30pm Tue).
finest works of the Seville School,
including masterpieces by One of the first churches built
Zurbarán and Montañés – these in Seville after the Reconquest
are now housed in the Museo (see pp52–3), Santa Ana was
de Bellas Artes (see pp70–71). founded in 1276 but has been
In 1841 Charles Pickman, a much remodelled over the
British industrialist, built a cer- centuries. Today it is a focal
amics factory on the site. After The colourful belfry of Nuestra point for the residents and
decades of successful business, Señora de la O in Triana cofradias (the religious
production ceased in 1980 and brotherhoods) of Triana.
the monastery was restored as 6 Iglesia de Nuestra The vaulting of the nave is
a central exhibit for Expo ’92. similar to Burgos cathedral’s
Also of interest are the Capilla Señora de la O vaulting, suggesting that the
de Afuera by the main gate, and C/ Castilla. Map 3 A1. Tel 954 33 75 39. same architect worked on the
the Casa Prioral, which has an Open daily. two churches. The west end of
exhibition of the restoration. the nave has a 16th-century
There is a Mudéjar cloister, The Church of Our Lady of O, retablo, richly carved by Alejo
made of of marble and brick. built in the late 17th century, Fernández. The sacramental
The chapter house has a has a brightly painted belfry chapel in the north wall has
number of tombstones of rich decorated with azulejos made a Plateresque entrance.
patrons of the monastery. locally. Inside, Baroque In the baptistery is the Pila de
The Centro Andaluz de Arte sculptures include a Virgin los Gitanos, or Gypsy Font, which
Contemporáneo features and Child with silver haloes, is believed to pass on the gift of
contemporary art exhibitions, attributed to Duque Cornejo, in flamenco song to the children
as part of the Museo de Arte the far chapel to the left as you of the faithful.
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A 90-Minute Walk in Seville

This walk begins in one of the city’s most elegant parks and explores one of its
oldest barrios (neighbourhoods): the medieval Jewish quarter of Santa Cruz. The
tiny alleys and squares of Santa Cruz conceal a museum to one of the city’s great
painters, Murillo, as well as a host of churches and many crafts galleries and
restaurants. The walk then takes you through Seville’s grandest square before
heading for the Guadalquivir River, a historic bridge and the Triana area, famous
VIL LA
for its ceramics district and the birthplace of Seville’s flamenco culture. M A RT I N
C A L LE
E LO
N
C VELAZQUEZ T
SA
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CA DO
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Walk route LL
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Puente de Isabel II
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(Puente de Triana)
Q
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PLAZA
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SE
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ALTOZANO G
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A sun-drenched alley in the neighbourhood
O
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u
MA
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of Santa Cruz S D
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Plaza Santa Cruz to the

B
DE
RE
ER
ir
ND
IA
CO
ZA
Rio Guadalquivir 0 TA
OR
q AN
NT
S
C
CT
AD
The small Santa Cruz square, PA

VI
ER
GE
LÓ
O
S
C
with its birdcage and garden,

CA
D ALM
N
PE
EL LO B T E
LL
LA
C O
E
sits close to both the Jardines

Y
O Puerta de
CO
R
BE
A Jerez RJO
RR
de Murillo 1, where there is a Opposite is the 16th- OY

R
TR NJU
EA
TI
O
FO
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S
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monument to Columbus, and century Convento San José AV w
RTA
LL San Telmo
CA
LEZ
JARDINES DE
A R IO
the walls of the Real Alcázar. del Carmen, also known as ROS GA CRISTINA
A
VE
Take Calle Santa Teresa past the Convento de las Teresas, an
PLAZA DE
museum and birthplace of order of the Carmelites. Turning Plaza
CUBA
painter Bartolomé Esteban right near the top of Calle de de Cuba

Murillo (1618–82) 2; the pieces Mateos Gago, you pass the
held here are minor compared 17th-century Iglesia de Santa
to those kept in the Museo des Cruz 3 with its triple carillon. Take a sharp right into Calle
Bellas Artes (see pp70–71). Turn left into Calle Guzman El Hernando Colon, where odd
Bueno (“Guzman the little shops selling collectables
Good”), named after the jostle with souvenir stores.
defender of Tarifa during Colon leads into Plaza de San
the Moorish invasion. Francisco and the Ayunta-
Calle Guzman features miento 5 (town hall), begun
some classic town in 1527 by architect Diego de
mansions built around Riaño. It is one of the best
spacious interior patios. examples of Renaissance
Cross into the Argote de architecture in Spain. Cross
Molina and walk behind the square to Calle Sierpes,
the Palacio Arcobispal 4 one of Seville’s oldest shopping
down to the gates of the streets. Sierpes is the place to
cathedral courtyard, the buy fans, mantilla shawls and
chief remaining Moorish hats, not least at Maquedano
section of this building; (No. 40) 6 which always has an
worshippers would wash impressive window display.
here before entering Where Sierpes meets tiny Plaza
Patio of a house in the Santa Cruz quarter the original mosque. La Campana, turn left on Calle
A GUIDED WALK 111
Tips for Walkers

Starting point: Plaza Santa Cruz.
Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
Getting there: Plaza Santa
Cruz is a short walk from Calle
de Menéndez Pelayo, close to the
Real Alcazar and Cathedral.
Stopping-off points: El Faro de
Triana, on Puente de Isabel II, has
tables overlooking the river and a
CALLE
rooftop terrace. It’s a great place to

stop for a drink or a seafood meal.
C UNA
Puente de Isabel II to Puente

The Giralda tower seen from Plaza de San Francisco de San Telmo
PLAZA
SALVADOR The bridge enters the barrio of
Martin Villa to Plaza del Duque Triana, forever associated with
de la Victoria and its statue of flamenco, bullfighting and
ALV A R E Z Q U I N T
FR D
Velazquez. Turn right into Calle

M UI CO R U B I O
5
ER
VIRGE
ÑO Z Y
San Eloy; at its end is the Iglesia

A
CA
IN
NES
LL
OL
E
de la Magdalena 7, a church
HER
GU AI
M
E ZM RE
D
E
SA
TE BU A
NAN
built in 1709 on the remains

RO
O EN N E
N
A
RG 4 O L
JO
COLON
of an earlier Moorish mosque.

SE
A
N
G
PLAZA
VIRGEN DE
EL
ES
EZ
EN O
Its interior features works by
LOS REYES 3 IM NCIS
C M AT
E O S GA
GO
X
DE
E Zurbarán and Valdés, and its
exquisite representation of
2
LO U E D
the Virgen del Amparo

R
PE A
PLAZA DEL PLAZA

DE
TRIUNFO PLAZA
DOÑA
REFINADORES
(protection) is a star of the
ELVIRA
Archivo de Indias 1 Easter Semana Santa pro-
L JARDINES DE
UE A
M IGÑ A R MURILLO cessions. It is claimed she
M A
YO DEZ
PLAZA
CONTRATACION intervened on behalf of
petitioners during the after-
PE ENEN
JARDINES DEL
El Faro de Triana restaurant on Puente
LA
ALCÁZAR shocks of the 1755 earthquake de Isabel II (Puente Triana)

M
PUERTA
and in the 19th century
E
DE JEREZ
Puerta de Jerez
C D
the church served as a ceramics (azulejos). For

e CALLE
SAN
FER
refuge for homeless workshops and shops,
NA
ND
O
PLAZA
DON JUAN
children. Circle to the bear right into Calles San
DE AUSTRIA
front of the church and Jorge and then left into
right into Calle San Antillano 9 and Alfareria.
PAL
O
Pablo, which becomes This runs into Calle

S
D
E
LA
F
JARDINES DE R ON
TER
A
Reyes Catolicos, leading Rodrigo de Triana. Turn
SAN TELMO GLORIETA
SAN DIEGO straight to Puente de left into Calle Victoria and
Isabel II 8. Built in right into Pelay Correa
1852 on the found- Azulejos of Santa to reach Seville’s oldest
ations of a long-lost Ana church in Triana church, the 13th-century
12th-century Arab Iglesia Santa Ana 0.
0 metres 300
bridge, it is also known as Its interior features major works
0 yards 300 Puente de Triana. by 16th-century sculptors such
as Jurate and Ocampo. Behind
the church, take a right on
Triana’s bar-lined riverfront,
Calle Betis q, with views across
to the Plaza de Toros, the Torre
del Oro and, to the left, sculptor
Eduardo Chillida’s modernist
peace monument, La Tolerancia
(Tolerance). Betis runs to the
1931 Puente de San Telmo, which
leads to the Jardines de Cristina
w, a major bus hub, and to Calle
San Fernando e, which passes
the Universidad and continues
8 Puente de Isabel II, stretching over the Guadalquivir River to the Jardines de Murillo.
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112 SEVILLE STREET FINDER
STREET FINDER
Key
Major sight
VIADUCTO DEL ALAMILLO TE
URBAN A NOR
Place of interest
RN i r
I ANI
EO
uiv
Other building
alq
FEDR
TO
ad
LA
Gu
A
Railway station
TOR
EV
RZO
NU
DOC
BA
Bus terminus
LA
DE
River boat boarding point
O
NE
IDA
OR
SAN LU
EN
Parking
T
EL
AV
ED
LL
Tourist information
IS
La Macarena
CA
Hospital
ALFONS
Police station
O XII
Church
ARJON
Convent and Monastery

Santa Cruz
A
LUIS
M O N TO TO Railway line
El Arenal
EDU A
Pedestrianized street
RDO
DATO
Metro station
INA Metro-Centro tram stop
NT Parque
PAS
E ENR
RG AM
AA María AD
EO
LIC ILL
UB A
Luisa
DE
P
RE
L AS
Gua dalq uivir
VIRGEN DE LUJAN
DE
LIC
IAS
Scale of Maps 1–2 & 3–4 Scale of Maps 5–6

0 metres 250 0 metres 150
1: 13,000 1: 8,250
0 yards 250 0 yards 150
Key to abbreviations used in the Street Finder

Avda Avenida d de, del, de la, Pl Plaza Sra Señora
C Calle de las, de los Po Paseo Sta Santa
Alcalde Marqués Alvaro Alonso Barba, Avda 1 C2 Aponte 1 C5 (5 C2)

Page numbers in bold refer
d Contadero, Po 3 B2 (5 B4) Amadeo Jannone, Pl 3 A3 Aposentadores, C 2 D5 (6 D1)
to main entries Alcázares, C de 2 D5 (6 D2) Amador de los Arapiles, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2)
Alcores, Pasaje los 4 D1 (6 E4) Ríos, Calle 4 E1 (6 F2) Archeros, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4)
A Alcoy, Calle de 1 C4 Amante Laffon, C 2 F3 Arcos, Calle 3 B3
Alejo Fernández 4 D2 (6 F4) Amapola, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Ardilla, C de la 3 A3
Abad Gordillo, C d 2 C5 (5 B2) Alemanes, Calle 3 C2 (6 D4) Amargura, Calle 2 D4 Arenal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4)
Abades, C de los 3 C1 (6 D4) Alerce, Calle 4 E1 Amatista, Calle 2 E2 Arenal, Calle 4 F5
Abogado R Medina, C 2 E2 Alfalfa, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) América, Plaza de 1 B2 Arfe, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Abril, Calle 2 F2 Alfalfa, Plaza del 3 C1 (6 D3) América, Plaza de 4 D5 Argote de Molina, C 3 C1 (6 D4)
Abuyacub, Calle 2 F3 Alfaqueque, Calle 1 B5 (5 B1) Amistad, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Arguijo, Calle 2 D5 (6 D2)
Acetres, Calle 3 C1 (6 D2) Alfarería, Calle de 3 A1 Amor de Dios, C d 1 C5 (5 C1) Arjona, Calle de 3 A1 (5 A3)
Adelantado, Calle 2 D3 Alfaro, Plaza 4 D2 (6 E5) Amores, Pasaje de 2 D4 Armas, Plaza de 1 B5 (5 A2)
Adolfo R Jurado, C 5 C5 Alfonso de Cossio, C 4 E4 Amparo, Calle del 6 D1 Armenta, Calle 6 E3
Adriano, Calle de 3 B2 (5 B4) Alfonso de Orleans y Andreu, Pasaje 6 D4 Arqueros, Calle 3 A4
Agata, Calle 2 E1 Borbón, C de 3 A5 Andueza, Calle de 2 D3 Arrayán, Calle 2 D4
Aguamarina, Calle 2 E2 Alfonso XII, C de 1 B5 (5 B2) Angel María Arroyo, Calle de 2 F5
Aguiar, Calle 1 B5 (5 A2) Alfonso XIII, Puente de 3 C5 Camacho, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Arte de la Seda, C 1 C3
Algamitas, Calle 2 F3 Angeles, Calle 3 C2 (6 D4) Artemisa, Calle 2 E5 (6 F1)
Aguilas, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3)
Alhelí, Calle 2 F3 Aniceto Saenz, C d 2 E4 Asunción, C d 3 B3
Aire, Calle del 3 C1 (6 D4)
Alhóndiga, C d 2 D5 (6 E2) Animas, Calle 3 A4 Atanasio Barrón, C 4 D1 (6 F4)
Alameda de Hércules 2 D4
Almadén d Plata, C 2 F4 Antilla, Playa de la 2 E2 Ateneo, Pasaje 3 C1 (5 C3)
Alamillo, Viaducto del 1 A1
Almansa, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4) Antillano, Calle 3 A2 Atienza, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1)
Alamillo, Puente del 2 D1 Almensilla, Calle 2 F3 Antolínez, Calle 1 C5 (5 B1) Augusto Peyre, C 4 D5
Albacara, Calle 2 E3 Almirante Lobo, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Antonia Díaz, C d 3 B2 (5 B4) A Plasencia, C 3 C1 (6 D3)
Albaida, Calle de la 2 F3 Almirante Tenorio, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Antonia Saenz, C d 2 E4 Aurora, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Albareda, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3) Almirante Topete, C d 4 F5 Antonio Bienvenida, C 3 B5 Autonomía, Plaza 2 F3
Alberto Lista, C d 6 D1 Almirante Ulloa, C d 5 B2 Antonio Martelo, Plaza 2 F5 Ave María, Calle 6 E2
Albuera, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3) Almonacid, Calle 4 E3 Antonio M Montaner, C 4 E5 Avellana, Calle 2 E3
Alcaicería d Loza, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Alonso Tello, Calle 4 E2 Antonio Pantión, C 2 E3 Averroes, Calle 4 E1
Alcalde Isacio Altozano, Pl del 3 A2 (5 A4) Antonio Salado, C 1 B5 (5 B2) Azafrán, Calle del 2 E5 (6 E2)
Contreras, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Alvarez Quintero, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Antonio Susillo, C 2 D4 Aznalcazar, Calle 4 F3
SEVILLE STREET FINDER 113
Aznalcollar, Calle 4 F3 Castellar, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Diamela, Calle 6 E3 Exposición, Calle 4 E4

Aznalfarache, Calle 2 E3 Castilla, Calle de 3 A1 Diego de Almagro, C 2 E1
Azofaifo, Calle 5 C2 Cazalla de la Sierra, C 2 F1 Diego de la Barrera, C 4 E4
Cedaceros, Calle 6 D2 Diego de Merlo, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
F
Cefiro, Calle 4 F1 Diego de Riaño, C 4 D3
B Celinda, Calle 6 E3 Diego M Barrios, C 4 F5
F. A. Toledo, Calle
Fabie, Calle
2 E3
3 A2 (5 A5)
Badajoz 3 B1 (5 C3) Cenicero, Calle 6 F2 Diego Puerta, Calle 2 F2 Fabiola, Calle 4 D1 (6 E4)
Bailén, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) Cepeda, Calle 1 B5 (5 B2) Dionisio A Galiano, C 2 E3 Fancelli, Calle 2 D3
Bajeles, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Cerrajería, Calle 5 C2 Divina Pastora, Calle 2 D4 Farnesio, Calle 6 E4
Bamberg, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Cerro Murlano, Calle 4 F5 Dobe Levadizo, Puente de 3C5 Faustino Alvarez, Calle 2 D3
Baños, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B1) Cervantes, Calle 6 D1 Doctor Antonio Cortés Febo, Calle de 3 A3
Barcelona, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Céspedes, C d 4 D1 (6 E4) Lladó, Calle 4 E4 Federico Rubio, C de 6 E3
Barco, Calle 2 D4 Cetina, Calle 2 E4 Doctor Arruga, Calle 2 F5 Federico Sánchez
Barqueta, Puente de la 1 C3 Chapina, Puente del 3 A1 Doctor Barraquer, Pl del 2 D2 Bedolla, C 3 B2 (5 C4)
Barrau, Calle 4 E3 Chavez Nogales 4 E2 Doctor Delgado Roig, C 2 F5 Felipe II, Calle de 4 D5
Barzola, Avenida de la 2F2 Chicuelo, Calle de 3 A5 Doctor Domínguez Rodiño 2 E2 Feria, Calle de la 2 D4
Basílica, Calle 2 D3 Chile, Avenida de 3 C3 Doctor Fedriani, C d 2 E2 Fernán Caballero, C d 5 B2
Bécquer, Calle de 2 D3 Chipiona, Playa de 2 E2 Doctor Félix Rodríguez Fernán Sánchez Tovar, C 2 E3
Begonia, Calle 2 F3 Cidro, Calle de 2 E1 de la Fuente, Calle 3 A3 Fernández de Ribera, C 4 F3
Béjar, Calle 3 A3 Circo, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4) Doctor Gabriel Sánchez Fernández Ardavin, C 2 F1
Benidorm, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3) Ciriaco Esteban 3 B1 (5 B3) de la Cuesta, Calle 4 E3 Fernández de Guadalupe, C 2 F4
Bernal Vidal 3 A2 (5 A5) Cisne, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) Doctor Herrera Carmona, Calle 2 E2 Fernández y
Bernardo de Toro, C 2 F2 Cisneros, Calle 5 B1 Doctor Jaime Marcos, C 2 E2 Gonzáles, C 3 C1 (5 C4)
Bernardo Guerra, Calle 3 B2 (5 B5) Ciudad de Ronda, Calle 4 D3 Doctor Jiménez Díaz, C 2 F3 Fernando de Mata, C 2 F2
Betis, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) Clavijo, Calle del 1 C4 Doctor Leal Castaño, C 2 E2 Fernando Tirado, C 4 F2
Bilbao, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Cofia, Calle 4 E2 (6 F5) Doctor Letamendi, Fernando IV, Calle de 3 A4
Blanca Paloma, C 2 F2 Colombia, Calle 4 D5 Calle del 2 D4 (6 D1) Fernando Villalón, Calle 4 E4
Blanco de los Ríos, C 6 D3 Compañia, Calle de 6 D2 Doctor Lupiañez, C 2 F3 Filipinas, Calle 4 E4
Blasco de Garay, Plaza 1 B5 (5 A1) Compás del Porvenil, C 4 D4 Doctor Marañón, Calle 2 E2 Flecha, Calle 2 D3
Blasco Ibáñez, C 2 F1 Concepción, Calle 6 F3 Doctor Morote Calafat, C 2E2 Florencia, Calle 2 F5
Bobby Deglané, Calle 5 B3 Concha Espina, Calle 3 A3 Doctor Muñoz Peralta, C 2 E2 Florencio Quintero, C 2 E4
Bogotá, Calle de 4 D5 Concordia, Plaza de la 5 C1 Doctor Pedro Castro, C 4 D3 Florida, Calle d 4 D1 (6 F4)
Borbolla, Avenida de 4 D5 Conde de Barajas, Doctor Relimpio, Calle 2 E5 Flota, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5)
Bordador Rodríguez Calle de 1 C4 (5 C1) Doctor Royo, Calle 2 E2 Fortaleza, Calle 3 B3
Ojeda, Calle 2 E4 Conde de Cifuentes, C 4 D2 (6 E5) Doctor Seras, Calle 2 E2 Francisco Carrión Mejias, Calle 6 E2
Bosque, Calle 4 E1 Conde d Colombia, Avda 3 C4 Dolores Fernández, Pl 2 E3 Francisco de Ariño, C 2 F4
Boteros, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Conde d Halçón, Avda d 2 F3 Don Alonso El Sabio, C 6 D2 Francisco Moraga, C 2 F4
Brasil, Calle 4 D4 Conde d Ibarra, C 4 D1 (6 E3) Don Fadrique, Calle 2 D3 Francos, C d 3 C1 (6 D3)
Brenes, Calle 2 F2 Conde de Torrejón, Don Juan de Austria, Pl 4 D3 Fray Alonso, C 4 D1 (6 F3)
Brillante, Calle 2 E2 Calle 2 D4 (6 D1) Don Pedro Niño, Fray Ceferino
Buen Suceso, Plaza 6 D2 Conde Negro, C 4 D1 (6 F3) Calle de 2 D5 (6 D1) González, C 3 C2 (6 D4)
Buiza y Mensaque, Calle 3 C1 Conil, Playa de 2 E2 Don Pelayo, Avda 4 D4 Fray de Deza, Calle 5 A2
(6 D2) Constancia, Calle 3 A3 Doña Carmen, Pl 2 D5 (6 E2) Fray Diego de Cádiz, C 2 E4
Bustos Tavera, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Constantina, Calle 2 F2 Doña Clarines, C 4 F5 Fray Isidoro de Sevilla, C 2 E3
Butrón, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F1) Constitución, Doña Elvira, Pl de 3 C2 (6 D5) Fray Luis de Granada, C 2 E3
Avenida de la 3 C1 (5 C4) Doña María Fray Pedro de Zúñiga, C 4 F2
Contratación, Pl d 3 C2 (6 D5) Coronel, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Fray Serafín Madrid, C 2 F1
C Coral, Calle 2 E2 Dos de Mayo, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Fresno, Calle 2 E1
Caballerizas, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Córdoba, Calle 6 D3 Dos Hermanas, C 4 D2 (6 E4) Froilán de la Serna, C 2 E3
Cabeza del Rey Corinto Aceituno, C 2 E4 Drs. Glez Meneses, C 2 E2 Fuente, Plaza de la 2 F3
Don Pedro, Calle 6 E3 Corral del Rey, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Duarte, Calle 3 B2 (5 B5) Fuenteovejuna, Calle 4 E2
Cabildo, Plaza 3 C2 (5 C4) Correa de Arauxo, C 2 E3 Dueñas, Calle 2 D5 (6 E1)
Corta, Puente de la 1 A1 Duende, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4)
Cabo Noval, Calle
Cachorro, Puente d
3 C1
3 A1 Cortes, Calle las 1 C5 (5 C1) Duque Cornejo, C 2 E4 G
Cádiz, Avenida de 4 D2 (6 E5) Costa de la Luz, C 4 F3 Duque de la G. Azcarate, Calle 2 F3
Calafate, Calle 3 A3 Costa Rica, Calle 4 E4 Victoria, Pl del 1 C5 (5 C2) G. Moscardo, Calle 5 C2
Calatrava, Calle 1 C3 Costillares, Calle 3 A5 Duque d Montemar, C 2 D4 Galena, Calle 2 E2
Caleria, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Coullaut Valera, Calle 4 E5 Duque d Veragua, C 5 B1 Galera, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3)
California, Calle 4 E4 Covadonga, Calle 3 A2 Galindo, Calle 6 D3
Crédito, Calle 1 C4
Callao, Plaza
Callejón de Pazos
3 A2 (5 A4)
4 D2 Crisantemo, Calle 2 F3
E Gallinato, Calle
Gallos, Calle de
4 E2 (6 F5)
2 E5 (6 F1)
Camino de Almez 2 E1 Cristo de Burgos, Plaza 6 E2 Eduardo Cano, Calle 1 B4 Gamazo, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4)
Camino de los Cristo de la Expiración, Eduardo Dato, Avda d 4 E2 Gandesa, Calle 6 D3
Descubrimientos 1 B4 Avenida del 3 A1 (5 A3) Eduardo Rivas, Calle 4 F2 Garci-Pérez, Calle 6 E3
Campamento, Calle 4 E3 Cristo del Calvario, C 5 B3 Ejército Español, Pl 4 D3 Garci Fernández, Calle 2 F4
Campo de los Mártires, C 4 E1 Cristóbal Colón, Encarnación, Pl d 2 D5 (6 D2) García de Vinuesa, C d 3 B2 (5 C4)
Campos, Calle 3 A2 Paseo de 3 B2 (5 B4) Enladrillada, C d 2 E5 (6 F1) García Morato, Avda d 3 A5
Canalejas, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Cronista, Pl del 2 D4 Enramadilla, C d 4 E3 García Ramos, C d 1 B5 (5 B2)
Canarios, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Cruces, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Enrique Mensaque, C 3 A3 Gardenia, Calle 2 F3
Cancionera, Calle 4 F5 Crucis, Vía 4 F1 Enrique Morillo, Pl 2 F1 Gaspar Alonso, Calle 4 D4
Cano y Cueto, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Cruz Roja, Avda de la 2 E4 Ensenada, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Gaspar de Alvear, C 2 E1
Cantabria, C d 1 C5 (5 C1) Cruz, Calle 4 E4 Eritaña, Avda de 4 D5 Gavidia, Pl d 1 C5 (5 C1)
Capitán Vigueras, C 4 D2 (6 F5) Cruzadas, Calle las 4 D4 Escarpín, Calle 2 D5 (6 D2) General Castaños, C B 2 (5 C5)
Cardenal Cuarzo, Calle 2 E2 Escoberos, Calle 2 D3 General García de la
Cervantes, C 4 D1 (6 E2) Cuba, Plaza de la 3 B3 Escudero y Peroso, C 4 F5 Herranz, Calle 4 F4
Cardenal Spinola, C 1 C5 (5 C1) Cueva de la Mora, C 2 E1 Escuelas Pias, C 2 E5 (6 E2) General Marva, Calle 2 F4
Carlos Alonso, C 6 E4 Cuna, Calle 3 C1 (6 D2) Eslava, Calle 1 C4 General Merry, Calle 4 E5
Carlos Arniches, Calle 2 F1 Curro Romero, C 3B5 Esmeralda, Calle 2 E2 General Polavieja, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3)
Carlos Brujes, Calle 4 F5 Curtidores, Plaza 4 D2 (6 F4) España, Plaza de 4 D3 General Primo de
Carlos Cañal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Curtidurias, C de 1 B4 Esperanza, Calle 2 D3 Rivera, Calle 4 D3
Carlos Haya, Calle 3 A5 Espinosa y Carcel, C 4 F3 General Ríos, C 4 D2 (6 F5)
Carlos V, Avda de
Carmen Benítez, Pl
4 D3
4 E1 (6 F3)
D Espíritu Santo, C
Estella, Calle
2 D5 (6 E1)
4 D1 (6 F4)
Generalísimo, Puente del
Genil, Calle
3 C4
3 B1 (5 B4)
Carmen Díaz, Calle 2 F1 Dársena, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Estepa, Calle 4 F5 Génova, Calle 3 B3
Carmona, Carretera de 2 F4 Dean López Cepero, C 4 D1 Estepona, Calle 2 E2 Geranio, Calle 2 F3
Carranza, Calle 2 D3 Delgado, Calle 5 C1 Estrellita Castro, Calle 1 C3 Gerona, Calle 2 D5 (6 E1)
Carreta, Calle el 2 D3 Delicias, Po de las 3 C3 Eucalipto, Calle 2 E1 Giraldillo, Plaza 2 E4
Carretas, C de las 2 F2 Demetrio d Ríos, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Europa, Plaza 2 D4 (6 D1) Girasol, Calle 2 F3
Cartuja, Pasarela d 1 A4 (5 A1) Descalzos, Calle 6 E2 Evangelista, Calle 3 A3 (5 A5) Gitanillo de Triana, C 3 A5
Castelar, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4) Diamante, Calle 2 E2 Expo, Plaza 1 A4 Gladiolo, Calle del 2 F3
www.ebook3000.com
114 SEVILLE STREET FINDER
Gloria, Calle 6 D5 José Bermejo, Calle 2 F1 Macasta, Calle 2E4 Molino, Calle 2 D4
Glorieta Buenos Aires 3 C4 José Cruz Conde, Calle 4 D3 Madre de Dios, Calle 6 E4 Molviedro, Plaza 3 B1 (5 B3)
Glorieta Covadonga 4 D4 José de la Camara, C 4 E2 Madre Dolores Márquez, C 2 E4 Moncayo, Calle 4 F4
Glorieta de los José de Velilla, C d 3 B1 (5C2) Madre Rafols, Calle 3 A4 Monederos, Calle 2 D3
Marineros Voluntarios 3 C4 José Gestoso, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madre San Marcelo, C 2 F3 Monsalves, Calle 1 C5 (5 B2)
Glorieta del Alferez Provisional 3 B4 José Laguillo, C 2 F5 Madreselva, Calle 2 F3 Monte Carmelo, C d 3 B3
Glorieta México 4 D5 José Luis Luque, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madrid, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3) Montevideo, Calle 4 D4
Glorieta San Diego 3 C3 José Maluquer, C 2 F3 Maese Farfán, C 4 F2 Moratín, Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Goles, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B1) José María Izquierdo, C 2 F4 Maestre Amete, Calle 4 F2 Morera, Calle 2 E4
Golfo, Calle 6 D3 José María Martínez Maestre Angulo, Calle 2 F4 Morería 6 D2
Gomara, Avenida 4 D5 Sánchez Arjona, C 3 A3 Maestro Quiroga, C 2 E4 Morgado, Calle de 6 D1
González Cuadrado, C 2 D4 José María Moreno Magallanes, Avda d 3 C4 Morón, Calle 4 F5
González de León, Calle 6 F4 Galván, C 4 D2 (6 F5) Málaga, Avda d 4 D2 (6 E5) Muelle de las Delicias 3 C4
González Quijano, Pasaje 2 D4 José María Osborne, C 4 D3 Malaquita, Calle 2 E2 Mulhacén, Calle 4 F4
Gonzalo Bilbao, C 2 E5 (6 F2) Joselito el Gallo, C 3 A5 Maldonados, Pl 2 D4 (6 D1) Muñoz León, C 2 E3
Gonzalo Díaz, Calle 4 E5 Jovellanos, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3) Mallen, Calle 4 F1 Muñoz Olive, C d 3 B1 (5 C3)
Gonzalo Núñez de Juan A Cavestany, C 4 E1 Mallol, Pasaje 2 E4 (6 F1) Muñoz y Pavón, C 6 E3
Sepúlveda, Calle 2 F3 Juan Belmonte, Calle de 3 A5 Malvaloca, Calle 4 F5 Murillo, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3)
Gonzalo Segovia, Calle 3 B3 Juan Castillo, Calle 6 F4 Manuel Bermudo
Gota de Rocío, C 2 E1 Juan de Astorga, C 2 D3 Barrera, Calle 4 D3
Goyeneta, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Juan de Aviñón, C 4 D2 (6 E5) Manuel Carretero, Calle 2 F3 N
Gran Capitán, C 4 D3 Juan de la Cosa, C 4 E5 Manuel Casana, Calle 4 F3 Naoc, Calle de 3 A3
Granada, Calle 5 C3 Juan de Matacarriazo 4 D2 (6 F5) Manuel Cortina, Calle 3 C1 Naranco, Calle 4 F4
Granate, Calle 2 E2 Juan de Mesa, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Manuel Mateos, Calle de 2 E3 Naranjo, Calle 2 E1
Gravina, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) Juan de Roble, C 2 D3 Manuel Pacheco, Calle 4 D4 Narciso Bonaplata, C 1 C4
Guadalhorce, Avda d 3 C5 Juan de Vera, C 4 E1 (6 F3) Manuel Ródenas, Calle 2 F3 Nardo, Calle 6 F4
Guadalquivir, C d 1 C4 Juan de Zoyas, C 4 F2 Manuel Rodríguez Navarros, C d 4 D1 (6 F3)
Guadalupe, Calle 4 D1 (6 F3) Juan Manuel Rodríguez Alonso, Calle 3 A3 Nebli, Calle 4 E2
Guadarrama, Calle 4 F4 Correa, Calle 2 E3 Manuel Rojas Nicolás Alperiz, C 4 D4
Guadiana, Calle 2 D4 Juan Núñez, Calle 2 F3 Marcos, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Niebla, Calle de la 3 A4
Guinés, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Juan Pablos, Calle 4 D5 Manuel Siurot, Avda de 4 D5 Niña de la Alfalfa, C 2 F2
Guzmán El Bueno, Juan Pérez Montalbán, C 2 D4 Manuel Villalobos, C 2 F3 Niña, Calle 2 F4
Calle de 3 C1 (6 D4) Juan Rabadán, Calle de 1 B4 Manzana, Calle 2 E3 Niño Ricardo, Calle 6 E2
Juan R Jiménez, C 3 B4 Mar Caspio, Calle 2 F2 Nuestra Sra de la O, Po 3 A1
Juan Romero, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Mar Negro, Calle 2 F2
H Juan S Elcano, C 3 B3 Mar Rojo, Calle de 2 F2
Nuestra Sra de la Paz, C
Nuestra Sra de los
4 E4
Habana, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Judería, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5) Maracaibo, Calle 2 F1 Angeles, Calle 3 A3
Harinas, Calle d 3 B2 (5 C4) Julio César, C de 3 B1 (5 B3) Maravillas, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Nueva Torneo 2 D2
Herbolarios, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Júpiter, Calle de 4 E1 (6 F2) Marbella, Playa 2 E2 Nueva, Plaza 3 B1 (5 C3)
Hermanas d Cruz, C 2 F2 Justino de Neve, C 6 E5 Marcelino Champagnat, C 3 A3 Núñez de Balboa, C 3 B2 (5C5)
Hermandades, Calle 2 F2 Justino Matute, Calle 3 A2 Marchena, Calle 4 F5
Hermano Pablo, Calle 2 F1 Juzgado, Calle 2 E4 Marco Sancho, Calle 2 D4
Hernán Cortés, Avda de 4 D4 Marcos d Cabrera, C 2 D3 O
María Auxiliadora, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Hernán Cortés, Calle 1 C4
Hernándo Colón, Calle 3 C1 (6 D4)
K María Luisa, Avda d 3 C4 O’Donnell, Calle 3 B1 (5 C2)
María, Calle la 2 F4 Odreros, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Herrera El Viejo, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Kansas City, Avenida de 4 F1 Oeste, Paseo 1 A3
Hiniesta, Calle 2 E4 (6 E1) Mariana de Pineda, C 6 D5
Marianillo, Calle 3 A3 Opalo, Calle 2 E2
Hiniesta, Calle la 2 E4
Hombre de Piedra, C d 1 C4
L Mariscal, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Orden de Malta, C
Orotava, Calle
2 D3
2 F1
Mármoles, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Honderos, Calle 2 E3 Laboriosa, C de la 4 E1 Orquídea, Calle 2 F2
Marqués d Lozoya, C 2 F2
Horacio Hermoso Araujo, C 4 F5 Lagar, Calle del 3 C1 (6 D2) Ortiz de Zúñiga, C 6 D2
Marqués de Estella, C 4 E3
Huelva, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Lamarque de Novoa, C 2 F4 Osario, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2)
Marqués de la Mina, C d 1 C4
Huestes, Calle 4 E3 Lanza, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E3) Oscar Carvallo, C 4 F2
Marqués de
Laraña Imagen, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Paradas, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Otoño, Calle 2 E2
I Laurel, Calle
Lealtad, Calle
6 D1
3 A3
Marqués del Duero, Otumba, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3)
Calle A 1 (5 A3)
Igueldo, Calle 4 F4 Legión, Pl d 3 A1 (5 A2)
Imaginero Castillo Leiria, Calle 3 A2
Marteles, Calle 2 E4 (6 F1) P
Martín Villa, Calle 5 C2
Lastrucci, Calle 1 B4 (5 B1) Leon XIII, Calle de 2 E4 Martínez de Medina, C 4 F2 Pacheco y Núñez del
Imperial, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Leoncillos, Calle 6 F2 Martínez Montañéz, Prado, Calle 2 D4
Infanta Luisa Lepanto, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Calle de 1 C5 (5 C1) Padre Campelo, Calle 4 F3
de Orleans, Calle 4 D3 Lerena, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Marzo, Calle 2 F2 Padre Cañete, Calle 5 C1
Infante Carlos Levies, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E4) Matahacas, Calle 2 E5 (6 F1) Padre Damián, C d 3 B4
de Borbón, Calle 4 D3 Lictores, Calle 4 E1 Mateo Alemán, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Padre Jerónimo
Infantes, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Liñán, Calle 1 B5 (5 A2) Mateos Gago, C d 3 C2 (6 D4) Córdoba, Plaza 2 E5 (6 E2)
Inocentes, Calle 2 D4 Lineros, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Matienzo, Calle 3 B2 (5 C5) Padre Manjón, C 2 E4
Iris, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4) Lira, Calle 2 E4 Mazagón, Playa de 2 E2 Padre Marchena, C 3 B1 (5 C3)
Irún, Calle 4 D1 (6 F4) Lirio, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Medalla Milagrosa, C 2 E3 Padre Méndez
Isabel II, Puente d 3 A2 (5 A4) Llerena, Calle de 2 F3 Medina y Galnares, C 2 E1 Casariego, C 4 E1
Isabel La Católica, Avda d 4 D3 Llop 3 C1 (6 D2) Medina, Calle 1 C4 Padre Tarín, C 1 C5 (5 C1)
Isabela, Calle 4 E4 Lope de Rueda, C 6 E4 Meléndez Valdés, C 2 F1 Pages del Corro, C 3 A2 (5 A5)
Lope de Vega, C 4 E1 (5 C2) Membrillo, Calle 2 E1 Pajaritos, Calle 6 D3
López de Gomara, C 3 A3
J López Pintado, C 4 D1 (6 E2)
Méndez Núñez, C
Mendigorria, Calle
3 B1 (5 C3)
1 C4
Palacio Malaver, Calle
Palma del Río, Calle
2 D4
2 F3
Jabugo, Calle 2 F4 Lora del Río, Calle 4 F5 Mendoza Ríos, C d 1 B5 (5 B2) Palmera, Avda de la 4 D5
Jacinta Martos, C 3 A2 Luca de Tena, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Menéndez Pelayo, Palos de la Frontera, C d 3 C3
Jauregui, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F2) Lucero, Calle 2 D4 Calle de 4 D2 (6 E5) Paraíso, Calle 3 A3
Javier, Calle 5 C2 Luchana, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Menéndez Pidal, C 2 F2 Parras, Calle 2 D3
Jerónimo Hernández, C 2 D5 Lucía de Jesús, C 3 A3 Menjibar, Calle 6 D1 Particular, Calle 3 A4
(6 D1) Luis Cadarso, Calle 4 E1 Mercedarias, Pl d 4 D1 (6 E3) Pascual de Gayangos,
Jesús del Gran Luis de Belmonte, C 4 F2 Mercedes de Velilla 6 D2 Calle de 1 B4 (5 B1)
Poder, C d 1 C5 (5 C2) Luis de Morales, C d 4F2 Mesón del Moro, C 6 E4 Pascual Márquez, C d 3 A5
Jesús Cautivo, Avda 4 F5 Luis de Vargas, C 3 A1 (5 A3) Miguel Cid, Pastor y Landero,
Jesús de la Vera Cruz, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Luis Montoto, C d 4 E1 (6 F3) Calle de 1 C5 (5 B1) Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Jiménez Aranda, C 4 E2 Lumbreras, Calle 1 C4 Miguel Mañara, C 6 D5 Patricio Sáenz, C 2 E4
Jimios, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4) Luz Arriero, Calle 3 A3 Miño, Calle del 3 A3 Pavia, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Joaquín Costa, C 2 D4 Miraflores, Avenida de 2 F4 Paz, Avenida de la 4 F5
Joaquín Guichot, C
Joaquín Hazaña, C
3 C1 (5 C4
3 C2 (5 C5)
M Misericordia, Calle
Moguer, Calle
6 D2
2 F1
Pedro Caravaca, Calle
Pedro del Toro, Calle
5 C2
5 A2
Jorge de Montemayor, C 2 E3 Macarena, Calle 2 E4 Molini, Avenida de 3 C5 Pedro Gual Villalbi, Avda 2 F1
SEVILLE STREET FINDER 115
Pedro Miguel, Calle de 2 D4 Rio de Janeiro, Calle 2 F1 Santa Fé, Calle 3 A4 V

Pedro Parias, C 3 B1 (5 C3) Río de la Plata, C 4 E4 Santa Isabel, Pl 2 E5 (6 E1)
Pedro P Fernández, C 3 A4 Rioja, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Santa Justa, Calle 2 F5 Valdelagrana, Playa de 2 E2
Pedro Roldán, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Rivero, Calle 5 C2 Santa María Valdés Leal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4)
Pedro Tafur, Calle 2 E3 Rocío, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) La Blanca, C 4 D2 (6 E4) Valladares, Calle 3 A2 (5 A4)
Pelay Correa, C d 3 A2 (5 A5) Rodó, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4) Santa María, C 2 F4 Valle, Calle del 2 E5 (6 F2)
Pelicano, Plaza del 2 E4 Rodrigo d Triana, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Santa Marina, C 2 E4 Valme, Calle 4 E3
Peñalara, Calle 4 F4 Rodríguez Caso, Avda 3 C4 Santa Paula, C d 2 E5 (6 F1) Valparaíso, C d 4 D5
Pensamiento, C 2 F3 Rodríguez Marín, C 4 D1 (6 E3) Santa Rosa, Calle 4 D4 Vara del Rey, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Peñuelas, Calle 2 E5 (6 E1) Roelas, Calle 1 C4 Santa Rufina, C d 2 D4 Varflora, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4)
Pepe Hillo, Calle 3 B5 Roma, Avenida de 3 C3 Santa Teresa, C d 4 D2 (6 E4) Vargas Campos, C 5 C2
Pepe Luis Vázquez, C 3 B5 Romanticismo, Avda del 2 E1 Santa Vicenta María, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Vázquez d Leca, C 3 B2 (5B5)
Perafán de Ribera, C 2 D3 Romeros, Calle de los 2 F2 Santander, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Velarde, Calle 3 B2 (5B4)
Peral, Calle del 2 D4 Ronda de Capuchinos, C 2 E4 Santas Patronas, C d 3 B1 (5 B3) Velázquez Tetuán, C 3 C1 (5 C2)
Pérez Galdós, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Ronda de Pío XII, Calle 2 F2 Santiago Montoto, Avda 3 C4 Venecia, Calle 2 F5
Pérez Hervás, C 2 F5 Ronda Urbana Norte 2 E1 Santiago, Calle 2 E5 (6 E2) Venta de los Gatos, C 2 D1
Peris Mencheta, C 2 D4 Rosaleda, Calle la 2 F4 Santo Angel, C 3 A4 Verano, Calle 2 F2
Perú, Avenida del 3 C3 Rosario Vega, C 3 B3 Santo Domingo de la Verde, Calle 2 D4 (4 D1)
Pilar de Gracia, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Rosario, C d 3 B1 (6 D3) Calzada, Calle 4 F2 Verde, Calle 4 D1 (6 E4)
Pilatos, Plaza de 4 D1 (6 E3) Rositas, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Santo Rey, Calle 4 E3 (6 F5) Verónica, C d 2 E5 (6 F1)
Pimienta, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5) Rubens, Calle 1 C5 (5 C1) Sargento Provisional, Pl 3 A4 Veruela, Calle de 2 E1
Pinta, Calle 2 F4 Rubí, Calle 2 E1 Saturno, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Vib-Arragel, C 1 C3
Pinto, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Ruiseñor, Calle 3 A2 Sauceda, Calle 5 C2 Victoria, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5)
Pinzón, Avda de 4 D4 Ruiz de Alda, Plaza de 4 E3 Vida, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5)
Segura, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3)
Pinzones, Calle 2 F4 Vidrio, Calle del 4 D1 (6 F3)
Seises, Pasaje 3 B2 (5 C4)
Pío XII, Plaza de 2 F3 Villa Jamerdana, Pasaje 6 D4
Pirineos, Calle de los 4 E2 S Sierpes, Calle
Sierra de Gata, C
3 C1 (5 C2)
4 F5
Villegas, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Pizarro, Avenida de 3 C4 Saavedras, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Virgen de África, C 3 A4
Sierra del Castañe, C 4 F5
Pizarro, Calle 1 C4 Sacrificio, Pl del 4 F1 Virgen de Aguas Santas, C 3 A4
Siete Revueltas, C d 6 D3
Placentines, C 3 C1 (6 D4) Sagasta, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3) Virgen de Araceli, C 3 B4
Simpecado, C 2 E2
Plácido F Viagas 4 E4 Sagunto, Calle 2 D3 Virgen de Begoña, C 3 B3
Socorro, Calle 2 E5 (6 E1)
Poeta Fernando de Salado, Calle de 3 A3 Virgen de Belén, C 3 A3
Sol, Calle del 2 E5 (6 F1)
los Ríos, Calle 2 F1 Sales y Ferre, Calle 6 D3 Virgen de Consolación, Pje 3 B3
Sollo, Calle 2 E4
Polancos, Calle de 2 F4 Salesianos, Calle 2 E5 Virgen de Escardiel, C 2 F1
Sor Angela de la Cruz, C de 2 D5
Ponce de León, Pl 2 E5 (6 E2) Salvador, Plaza 3 C1 (6 D3) Virgen de Fátima, C 3 A3
Sor Francisca Dorotea, C 2 F2
Portaceli, Calle 4 E2 San Agustín, Pl de 4 D1 (6 F3) Virgen de Gracia y
Sorda, Calle 2 E4
Portugal, Avda de 4 D3 San Benito, C d 4 E1 Esperanza, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Potro, Calle del 1 C5 (5 C1) San Bernardo, C d 4 E3 (6 F5) Virgen de Guaditoca, C 3 B4
Pozo Santo, Pl 2 D5 (6 D1) San Blas, Calle de 2 D4 T Virgen d Alegría, C 4 D1 (6 E4)
Pozo, Calle del 2 D4 Virgen de la Antigua, C 3 A4
San Clemente 6 E4 Tabladilla, Calle 4 D5
Prada, Calle 2 D4 Virgen de la Cinta, C 3 A4
San Diego, Calle d 3 B2 (5 C4) Tadeo Soler, Calle 3 A3
Prado de San Sebastian 6 D3 Virgen de la Estrella, C 3 A4
San Eloy, Calle d 1 C5 (5 B2) Taf, Calle el 2 D3
Presidente Carrero Virgen de la Luz, C 6 F3
San Esteban, C d 4 D1 (6 F3) Talgo, Calle el 2 D3
Blanco, Avda de 3 B5 Virgen de la Oliva, C 3 A4
San Fernando, C 3 C2 (6 D5) Tamboril, Calle 2 F2
Previsión, Calle 2 F3 Virgen de la Sierra, C 4 D3
San Florencio, C 4 F2 Tarifa, Calle de 1 C5 (5 C2)
Primavera, Calle 2 F2 Virgen de las Huertas, C 3 B3
San Francisco de
Progreso, Calle del 4 D4 Teatinos, Avda de los 4 F5 Virgen d Montañas, C 3 A4
Paula, C de 1 C5 (5 C1)
Prosperidad, Calle 3 A3 Teide, Calle 2 D4 Virgen de Loreto, Calle 3 B4
San Francisco Javier, Avda 4 F4
Puebla de las Mujeres, C 4 F5 Tello de Guzmán, C 4 E5 Virgen d Libros, C 5 B1
San Francisco, Pl d 3 C1 (5 C3)
Puente y Pellón 6 D2 Temprado, Calle 3 B2 (5 C5) Virgen d Reyes, Pl 3 C2 (6 D4)
San Gil Contreras, Pl 2 D3
Puerta de Carmona 4 D1 (6 F3) Teniente Borges, C 1 C5 (5 C2) Virgen de Luján, C 3 A4
San Gregorio, C d 3 C2 (6 D5)
Puerta de Jerez, Pl 3 C2 (6 D5) Teniente C Seguí, C 5 C3 Virgen de Montserrat, C 3 B4
San Hermenegildo, C d 2 E4
Puerta Real 1 B5 (5 A2) Teniente Vargas Virgen de Regla, C 3 B3
San Ignacio, C d 4 F2
Puerto Rico, C 2 F2 Zúñiga, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Virgen de Robledo, C 3 B4
San Isidoro, C 3 C1 (6 D3)
Pumarejo, Plaza de 2 D4 Tenor Manuel García, C 4 E5 Virgen de Setefilla, C 3 B3
San Jacinto, C d 3 A2 (5 A5)
Puñonrostro, C 6 F2 Tentudia, Calle 4 E3 Virgen de Valvanera, C 4 F2
San Joaquín, C d 2 F5
Pureza, C de la 3 A2 (5 A5) Teodosio, C de 1 C5 (5 B1) Virgen del Aguila, C 3 A4
San Jorge, Calle 3 A2 (5 A4)
Purgatorio, Calle 2 E3 Ter, Calle el 2 D2 Virgen del Buen Aire, C 3 A3
San José, Calle d 4 D1 (6 E4)
Terceros, Pl de los 2 D5 (6 E2) Virgen del Monte, C 3 A4
San Juan Bosco, C de 2 F4
Tibidabo, Calle 4 F4 Virgen del Pepetuo
Q San Juan de Avila, C de 5 C2
Tintes, Calle 4 D1 (6 F3) Socorro, Calle 3 A3
San Juan de la
Quevedo, C d 2 D5 (6 D1) Tirso de Molina, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Virgen del Refugio, C 3 A4
Palma, C de 2 D5 (6 D1)
Quinita Flores, C 4 F5 Tolosa Latour, C 4 F5 Virgen d Subterránio, C 2 D4
San Juan de la Ribera, C 2 E3
Tomás de Ibarra, C 3 C2 (5 C4) Virgen del Valle, C 3 B3
San Juan, Calle de 6 D3
Topacio, Calle 2 E2 Virgen Milagrosa, Pl 3 B3
R San Julián, Calle de
San Lázaro, Avda de
2 E4
2 E2 Torcuato Pérez, C 2 E3 Vírgenes 4 D1 (6 E3)
Torneo, Calle del 1 B5 (5 A1) Viriato, Calle del 2 D5 (6 D1)
Rábida, Calle la 3 C3 San Luis, Calle de 2 D4
Torreblanca, C 2 D4 Virtud, Calle 3 A3
Rafael González San Marcos, Plaza 2 E5 (6 E1)
Torremolinos, C 3 A1 (5 A3) Vista Florida, Plaza 2 E3
Abreu, C 3 B1 (5 B2) San Martín, Plaza 2 D5 (6 D1)
Torres, Calle 2 D3 Vista Hermosa, Calle 2 E3
Rafael María de Labra, C 4 E5 San Miguel, Calle 1 C5 (5 C1)
Torrigiano, Calle 2 D3 Voluntad, Calle 3 A3
Rafael Ortega, Plaza 3 B5 San Pablo, Calle d 3 B1 (5 B3)
Torrijos, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) Vulcano, Calle 2 D4
Ramírez de Bustamante, C 4 E5 San Pedro Mártir, C 3 B1 (5 B2)
Ramón de Carranza, Avda 3 A5 San Pedro, Plaza 2 D5 (6 E2) Trabajo, C d 3 A3
Ramón y Cajal, Avda de 4 F4 San Román, Plaza 6 E1 Trajano, Calle
Trastámara, C d
1 C5 (5 C1)
3 A1 (5 A3)
X
Rastro, Calle 4 D2 (6 F5) San Roque, C de 3 B1 (5 B2)
Raza, Avda de la 3 C5 San Salvador, C 4 D4 Triana, Puente de 3 A2 (5 A4) Ximénez de Enciso, C 4 D2 (6 E4)
Recaredo, C d 2 E5 (6 F3) San Sebastián, Pl de 4 D3 Trinidad, Calle 2 E4
Triunfo, Pl del 3 C2 (6 D4)
Redes, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) San Telmo, Puente de 3 B3
Trovador, Calle 4 E2
Y
Refinadores, Pl 4 D2 (6 E4) San Vicente, C d 1 C5 (5 B2)
Regina, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Sánchez Barcárizetgui, C 5 A3 Troya, Calle de 3 B3 Yuste, Calle de 1 C3
Relator, Calle de 2 D4 Sánchez d Castro, C 2 E5 (6 F1) Trujillo, Calle 2 F2
Turia, Calle del 3 A4
Reposo, Calle
República Argentina,
1 C3 Sánchez Perrier, C d
Sánchez Pizjuan, Avda
2 E3
2 D2 Turmalina, Calle 2 E2 Z
Avenida de la 3 A4 Sancho Dávila, Avda d 2 F2 Zafiro, Calle 2 E2
República Dominicana, Pl
Requena, Calle
3 A4
3 A2
Sanjurjo, Avenida
Sanlúcar La Mayor
3 C3
4 F5
U Zamora, Pasaje
Zamudio, Calle
4 D1 (6 F4)
6 E3
Resolana, C d 2 D3 Santa Ana, Calle de 1 C4 Úbeda, Calle 4 E1 (6 F3) Zaragoza, Calle 3 B3 (5 C3)
Reyes Católicos, C 3 A1 (5 A4) Santa Bárbara, C 5 C1 Ulia, Calle de 4 F4 Zaruen 1 B4 (5 B1)
Ricardo de Checa, C 5 B2 Santa Clara, C d 1 C4 Unidad, Calle de la 4 E2 Zurbarán, Plaza 2 D5 (6 D2)
Ricardo Torres Bombita, C 3 A5 Santa Cruz, Pl d 4 D2 (6 E4) Urquiza, Calle 2 F5 Zurradores, Plaza 4 D1 (6 F4)
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Hotel Alfonso XIII
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ANDALUSIA
AREA BY AREA
Andalusia at a Glance 124–125

Huelva and Sevilla 126–137
Córdoba and Jaén 138–161
Cádiz and Málaga 162–187
Granada and Almería 188–209
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124 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA
Andalusia at a Glance
Andalusia is a region of contrasts where
snowcapped mountains rise above deserts and
Mediterranean beaches, and Moorish palaces can
be found standing next to Christian cathedrals.
Its eight provinces, which in this guide are divided
into four areas, offer busy towns such as Granada
and Córdoba with their astonishing architectural
treasures, in addition to sleepy villages, endless Roof of the Mihrab in the Mezquita, Córdoba’s top
olive groves and nature reserves of great beauty. sight (see pp148–9)
CÓRDOBA
The amphitheatre in the Roman city of Itálica

(see p48 and p136), just outside Seville
Jabugo
Córdoba
HUELVA SEVILLA
Seville
Huelva
MÁLAGA
Golden chalice from the rich treasury

of Cádiz cathedral (see p168) Cádiz
CÁDIZ
Los Barrios
Arcos de la Frontera, one of the pretty pueblos blancos

(white villages, see pp178–9) so typical of Andalusia
Rooftop view of Antequera, Andalusia
A N D A LU S I A AT A G L A N C E 125
The imposing Moorish castle of Baños de la Encina

(see p155) in the province of Jaén
0 kilometres 50
Baroque west front of the elegant cathedral in
Jaén (see p152) 0 miles 25
JAÉN
Jaén
ALMERÍA
Granada
Archidona GRANADA
Almería
Málaga
Cabo de Gata, a nature reserve with

Magical Alhambra overlooking the Albaicín, Granada (see pp194–202) excellent beaches (see p208)
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HUELVA
AND SEVILLA
Andalusia’s western extremities and the plains surrounding
Seville are rarely explored by travellers in southern Spain.
There are isolated beaches along Huelva province’s Atlantic coast
and good walking country in the northern sierras. The Parque Nacional de
Doñana on the Guadalquivir delta is Europe’s largest nature reserve; inland,
orange groves straddle the river’s valley.
As Roman legions under Scipio Africanus epic voyage from Palos de la Frontera, which
crossed southern Spain on their westward at the time was an important port. He stayed
trek in the 3rd century BC, they founded nearby, at the Franciscan Monasterio de la
a formidable metropolis, Itálica. Its ruins Rábida, built earlier that century. Running
remain north of Seville. Later, the Moors along Huelva’s northern border is a ridge
held the region as part of the Emirate of mountains, of which the forested Sierra
of Al Andalus. They peppered it with de Aracena forms part. This ridge continues
their whitewashed, fortified towns, of into Sevilla province as the Sierra Norte
which Carmona, in Sevilla province, is de Sevilla. Here, goats forage, birds of prey
a fine example. fly overhead and streams gush through
After the Christian Reconquest (see chasms. The landscape erupts in a riot of
pp52–3), Moorish traditions persisted wild flowers in spring, turning brown as
through Mudéjar architecture (see pp28–9), the searing summer sets in.
blending with Baroque and Renaissance The Parque Nacional de Doñana
in cities such as Osuna, which flourished preserves the dunes and marshlands near
in the 16th century. the mouth of the Guadalquivir to the
Huelva province is inextricably bound up south. Here, teeming birdlife and wetland
with another chapter in the history of world fauna thrive on the mudflats and shallow,
conquest – in 1492 Columbus set out on his saline waters.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío, El Rocío, where many pilgrims converge each Pentecost Sunday
Whitewashed buildings in a village in the Sierra de Aracena
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Exploring Huelva and Sevilla

Cosmopolitan Seville is the natural base from which to
explore the far-flung corners of Huelva and Sevilla
provinces, such as the little-visited and extraordinarily
beautiful Sierra de Aracena and the rugged Sierra Norte.
The Atlantic coast offers a virtually unbroken stretch of
beaches and the Parque Nacional de Doñana features
a fascinating marsh landscape abundant in wildlife.
Between the coast and the mountains are rolling
agricultural plains, interrupted by vineyards in
The mines of Riotinto, Sierra de Aracena
fertile El Condado. Among the region’s
historic towns are Écija and Osuna,
Arroyomolinos
with fine Baroque features, while S i e r ra de León Mérida
the history of Columbus can M o r
ena
be traced in the towns Rosal de la Aroche Embalse
Frontera de Aracena
around Huelva. Jabugo Aracena
Santa Olalla
Cortegana del Cala
za
SIER Higuera
an
RA DE A
Ch
RACENA de la Sierra
Hu
Santa Bárbara
elv
de Casa
a
Paymogo
Cabezas El Ronquillo
Rubias MINAS DE
Zalamea RÍOTINTO
la Real El Castillo de
Calañas las Guardas
Tharsis
HUE LVA
G u adia m a
Alosno Valverde
el
Villanueva de
Tinto
di
O del Camino
los Castillejos
Aznalcóllar
r
Sanlúcar de Embalse
Guadiana de Sancho
San Bartolomé
El C
Guad
de la Torre Sanlúcar
ON
San Silvestre Trigueros DA la Mayor
Gibraleón Niebla Palma del Condado
iana
de Guzmán D
O
San Juan Bollullos Pilas

Villablanca
Cartaya HUELVA del Puerto del Condado
MOGUER
Almonte
Lepe MONASTERIO DE PALOS DE LA
AYAMONTE
LA RÁBIDA FRONTERA
Tavira PUNTA
ISLA UMBRÍA Villafranca del
CRISTINA EL ROCÍO Guadalquivir
Golfo MAZAGÓN
de C
ádi UE
L
z RQ A
MATALASCAÑAS P A I O N N Ar
C
NA OÑA
ivi
D
qu
D E
adal
Gu
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Fishing boats in the harbour of Punta Umbría Provincial border

HUELVA AND SE VILLA 129
Getting Around
The busy A4, linking Córdoba with Seville, slices through
the eastern half of the region, bypassing Écija and Carmona,
then streaks on down to Jerez de la Frontera and Cádiz as
the AP4. Another motorway, the A92, brings traffic from
Málaga and Granada. All join a ring-road at Seville, with the
A49 continuing to Huelva and Portugal. These cities are also
connected by rail. A complex and inexpensive bus network
run by many different companies links most towns. To
explore the more remote parts of the region, particularly
mountain roads, it is essential to have private transport.
Alanis
Embalse de SIER
El Pintado
RA Las Navas de la
NO Concepción
Cazalla de RTE
la Sierra
Constantina A well-known bodega advertisement in the rolling
Almadén
de la Plata hills of the Sierra de Aracena
El Pedroso
La Puebla
Via
de los Infantes
r
Embalse
de Cala Peñaflor
Palma del Río
Castilblanco de
los Arroyos Lora del Río
Córdoba
Cantillana Ge
ni
alquivir
Villanueva del La Campana l
Río y Minas uad
G
Alcalá del Río

S EV I LL A La Luisiana
ÉCIJA
ITÁLICA CARMONA
Santiponce
C or
bones
Sevilla Mairena del Alcor Herrera
La Lantejuela
(Seville) Alcalá de Guadaira El Rubio
Marchena
Dos El Arahal
Hermanas ESTEPA
Coria del OSUNA
Río Aguadulce
La Puebla
Utrera de Cazalla La Roda de
Andalucía Málaga
Los Palacios Morón de
y Villafranca la Frontera
Marismas del Villanueva de

Embalse de La San Juan
Guadalquivir Torre del Águila
Las Cabezas Montellano

de San Juan
LEBRIJA
Sights at a Glance
Jerez de la 1 Sierra de Aracena w El Rocío
Frontera
2 Minas de Ríotinto e Matalascañas
3 Ayamonte r Parque Nacional
4 Isla Cristina de Doñana pp134–5
5 Punta Umbría t Lebrija
6 Huelva y Itálica
7 Monasterio de la Rábida u Sierra Norte
8 Palos de la Frontera i Carmona
9 Moguer o Écija
0 kilometres 20
0 Mazagón p Osuna
0 miles 10 q El Condado a Estepa
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E Museo Minero
Plaza del Museo s/n. Tel 959 59 00 25.
Open daily. & 7 8 -
∑ parquemineroderiotinto.com
3 Ayamonte
Huelva. Road map A3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Huelva 37 (959 32 07 37).
( Sat morning.
Before the road bridge over

the lower Guadiana river was
completed in 1992, anyone
who was crossing between
A ham shop in Jabugo, Sierra de Aracena southern Andalusia and the
Algarve coast of Portugal had
} Gruta de las Maravillas
1 Sierra de Aracena Pozo de la Nieve. Tel 663 93 78 76.
to pass through Ayamonte.
Huelva. Road map A2. £ El Repilado.
The small, flat-bottomed car
Open 10am–1:30pm, 3–6pm. & 8
@ Aracena. n Calle Pozo de la ferry across the jellyfish-
Nieve, s/n, in reception area of La infested mouth of the
Gruta de las Maravillas, (663 93 78 76). Guadiana river still operates
( Sat. ∑ aracena.es 2 Minas de Riotinto and is an alternative for those
Huelva. Road map A2. @ Riotinto.
who are making the journey
This wild mountain range in Tel 959 59 00 25. Open 10:30am– between the two countries.
northern Huelva province is one 3pm, 4–7pm daily (mid-Jul–Sep: to Visitors can watch the ferry
of the most remote and least 8pm). Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec & 7 from the tower of Ayamonte’s
visited corners of Andalusia. Its 8 ∑ parquemineroderiotinto.com Iglesia San Francisco, which
slopes, covered with cork, oak, has a fine Mudéjar ceiling.
chestnut and wild olive, are cut A fascinating detour off the
by rushing streams and many N435 between Huelva city and
tortuous mountain roads. the Sierra de Aracena leads to 4 Isla Cristina
The main town of the region, the opencast mines at Riotinto.
Aracena, squats at the foot of These have been excavated n Calle San Francisco 12 (959 33 26
a ruined Moorish fortress on a since Phoenician times; the 94). ( Thu. ∑ islacristina.org
hillside pitted with caverns. Greeks, Romans and Visigoths
One of these, the Gruta de las exploited their reserves of iron, Once a distinct island, Isla
Maravillas, can be entered to copper, silver and mineral ores. Cristina is now surrounded by
see its underground lake in a The lip of the crater overlooks marshes. Situated near the
chamber hung with stalactites. walls of rock streaked with mouth of the Guadiana river, it is
Near the fortress, the Iglesia del green and red fissures. Below, an important fishing port, home
Castillo, which was built in the the trucks at work in the mines to a fleet of tuna and sardine
13th century by the Knights appear toy-sized. The Museo trawlers. With a fine sandy
Templar, has a Mudéjar tower. Minero in the village explains beach, Isla Cristina is now a
The village of Jabugo also the history of the mines and popular summer resort. Situated
nestles amid these mountains. of the Riotinto Company. At on the main seafront is an
It is famed across Spain for its weekends and on public excellent choice of restaurants,
tasty cured ham, jamón ibérico, holidays there is a train tour which serve delicious, freshly
or pata negra (see p222). in restored 1900 carriages. landed fish and seafood.
Tuna and sardine trawlers moored for the night in the port of Isla Cristina
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p217 and pp230–31
E Museo Provincial
Alameda Sundheim 13. Tel 959 65 04
24. Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
9am–3:30pm Sun & public hols (mid-
Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun
& public hols). 7
7 Monasterio
de la Rábida
Huelva. Road map A3. @ from Huelva.
Tel 959 35 04 11. Open 10am–1pm,
Frescoes depicting the life of Columbus at Monasterio de la Rábida 4–6:15pm Tue–Sat, 10:45am–1pm,
4–6:15pm Sun (to 7pm Jul & Aug). &
8 ∑ monasteriodelarabida.com
5 Punta Umbría That Columbus set sail from
Palos de la Frontera, across the In 1491, a dejected Genoese
n Ciudad de Huelva s/n (959 49 51 estuary, is Huelva’s main claim explorer found refuge in the
60). ( Mon. ∑ puntaumbria.es to international renown. This Franciscan friary at La Rábida,
fact is celebrated in the which is across the Odiel estuary
Punta Umbria is one of the main excellent Museo Provincial, from Huelva. King Fernando and
beach resorts in Huelva province. which also has several Queen Isabel had refused to
It sits at the end of a long exhibitions charting the history back his plan to sail west to the
promontory, with the of the mines at Riotinto. East Indies. The prior, Juan Pérez,
Marismas del Odiel Some archaeological who as the confessor of the
wetlands to one side finds from the very early queen had great influence,
and a sandy beach days of mining are eventually succeeded in getting
bordering the Gulf of cleverly presented. this decision reversed. The
Cádiz to the other. The To the east of the following year, this sailor, by
Riotinto Company first centre, the Barrio Reina name Columbus, became the
developed the resort in Victoria is a bizarre first European to reach the
the late 19th century for example of English Americas since the Vikings.
its British employees. suburbia in the very La Rábida friary, which was
These days, however, it is Bronze jug, Museo
heart of Andalusia. built on Moorish ruins in the
mainly Spanish holiday- Provincial, Huelva
It is a district of 15th century, is now a shrine
makers who stay in the bungalows in mock- to Columbus. Frescoes painted
beachside villas. Tudor style, built by by Daniel Vásquez Díaz in 1930
A long bridge crosses the the Riotinto Company for its glorify Columbus’s life. The Sala
marshes, giving road access from staff in the early 20th century. de las Banderas contains a
Huelva. It is more fun to follow a South of the town, at Punta del small casket of soil from every
trail blazed by Riotinto expatriates Sebo, the Monumento a Colón, Latin American country. Worth
seeking the sun and take the a 1929 bleak statue of Columbus seeing are the Mudéjar cloisters,
ferry across the bird-rich wetlands. by Gertrude Vanderbuilt Whitney, the lush gardens and the
dominates the Odiel estuary. beamed chapterhouse.
6 Huelva Columbus in Andalusia

Huelva. Road map A3. * 130,000. £
@ n Calle Jesús Nazareno 21 (959 65 Cristóbal Colón – Christopher Columbus to the English-
02 00). ( Fri. ∑ turismohuelva.org speaking world – was born in Genoa in Italy, trained as
a navigator in Portugal and
Founded as Onuba by the conceived the idea of reaching
Phoenicians, the town had its the Indies by sailing westwards.
grandest days as a Roman port. In 1492 he sailed from Palos de la
It prospered again in the early Frontera and later the same year
days of trade with the Americas, landed on Watling Island in the
but Seville soon took over. Its Bahamas, believing that he had
fulfilled his ambition.
decline culminated in 1755, when
Columbus made three further
Huelva was almost wiped out voyages from bases in Andalusia,
by the great Lisbon earthquake. reaching mainland South America
Today, industrial suburbs sprawl and other islands in what are still
around the Odiel quayside, from termed the West Indies in defer-
which the Riotinto Company ence to his mistake. He died at Columbus takes his leave before
once exported its products all Valladolid in 1506. setting sail
over the commercial world.
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charts the poet’s life and work,

and is located in his restored
former home.
The walls of the 14th-century
Monasterio de Santa Clara
enclose some splendid, stone-
carved Mudéjar cloisters. The
nuns’ dormitory, kitchen and
refectory capture some of the
atmosphere of their life inside
the enclosure.
The Monasterio de San
Francisco is worth seeing for
its church, with a superb white
tower and Baroque portals.
Historic map at the Casa Museo de Martín Alonso Pinzón in Palos de la Frontera
E Museo de Zenobia y Juan
8 Palos de These days, Palos’s prosperity Ramón Jiménez
Calle Juan Ramón Jiménez 10.
la Frontera comes from the thousands of
Tel 959 37 21 48. Open Tue–Sun.
hectares of strawberry beds in
Huelva. Road map A3. * 12,000. @ the surrounding fields, which Closed Sun pm & public hols. & 8
n Parque Botánico José Celestino
soak up the sun. R Monasterio de Santa Clara
Mutis, Paraje de la Rábida (959 35 03
Plaza de las Monjas. Tel 959 37 01 07.
11). ( Sat. E Casa Museo de Martín Open Tue–Sat. Closed often closed
Alonso Pinzón on Sat for events; public hols. &
Palos is an unprepossessing Calle Colón 24. Tel 959 10 00 41.
agricultural town on the eastern Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri.
side of the Río Odiel’s marshy
delta. Yet it is a major attraction
on the Columbus heritage trail. 9 Moguer
On 3 August 1492, Columbus Huelva. Road map A3. * 15,000. @
put out to sea from Palos in his n Calle Castillo s/n (959 37 18 98).
ship, the Santa María, with the ( Thu. ∑ andalucia.org
caravels the Pinta and the Niña,
whose captains were Martín A beautiful, whitewashed town,
and Vicente Pinzón, brothers Moguer is a network of shaded
from Palos. A statue of Martín courtyards and narrow streets
Pinzón stands in the town’s lined with flower boxes. It is
main square, and his former a delight to stroll around,
home has been turned into a exploring treasures such as Mazagón’s sandy beach on the
small museum of exploration, the 16th-century hermitage Costa de la Luz
named the Casa Museo de of Nuestra Señora de
Martín Alonso Pinzón. Montemayor and 0 Mazagón
The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia the Neo-Classical Huelva. Road map A3. * 3,500. @
San Jorge dates from the 15th Ayuntamiento. Moguer n Edificio Mancomunidad, Avda de
century. It has a fine portal, is also the birthplace of los Conquistadores s/n (959 37 60 44).
through which Columbus left the poet and 1956 ( Fri evening.
after hearing Mass before his Nobel laureate, Juan
famous voyage. Afterwards, Ramón Jiménez. One of the more remote beach
he boarded the Santa María The Museo de resorts of the Costa de la Luz,
at a pier, which is now forlornly Zenobia y Juan Mazagón shelters among pine
silted up. Ramón Jiménez woods 23 km (14 miles)
southeast of Huelva. Virtually
deserted in winter, it comes to
life in summer when mainly
Spanish holiday-makers arrive
to fish, sail and enjoy the huge,
and often windswept, beach.
Visitors to the resort may still
take pleasure in the solitude,
however, while taking long
walks along the endless
Atlantic shoreline and
The 16th-century Nuestra Señora de Montemayor in Moguer among the sand dunes.
by bus, car, horse, or even on

gaudily decorated ox-carts or
on foot. They come to Ermita
de Nuestra Señora del Rocío
that has a statue reputed to
have been behind miraculous
apparitions since 1280. Pilgrims
are joined by revellers, who are
enticed by the promise of
plentiful wine, music and
a great party.
e Matalascañas
Moorish walls surrounding Niebla in El Condado n Parque Dunar, s/n (959 02 66 02).
( Thu.
q El Condado w El Rocío
Huelva. Road map B2. £ @ Palma Huelva. Road map B3. * 2,500. @
Matalascañas is the largest
del Condado. n Calle Campo Castillo n Centro Doñana, Avda de la Andalusian beach resort west of
s/n, Niebla Huelva (959 36 22 70). Canaliega s/n (959 02 66 02). ( Tue. the Guadalquivir river. Thousands
holiday here, lying in the sun,
The rolling, fecund hills to the Bordering the wetlands of the riding, sailing or water-skiing by
east of Huelva produce several Doñana region (see pp134–5), day and dancing to the latest
of Andalusia’s finest wines. El the village of El Rocío is for disco beat at night. At Romería
Condado, defined roughly by most of the year a tranquil, rural del Rocío, the resort overflows
Niebla, Palma del Condado, backwater, which attracts with pilgrims and revellers.
Bollullos del Condado and few visitors. Matalascañas is totally
Rociana del Condado, is the heart At the Romería del Rocío (see self-contained. To one side
of this wine-growing district. pp42–3) in May, however, nearly there are dunes and forests
Niebla is of ancient origin. Its a million people converge on stretching as far as Mazagón, to
bridge is Roman, but its solid the village. Many are pilgrims the other the wild peace of the
walls are Moorish, as is the now who travel from all over Spain Doñana (see pp134–5).
ruined, 12th-century Castillo de
Niebla, also known as Castillo
de los Guzmanes.
Around Niebla, vineyards
spread out over the landscape,
which is dotted with villages
close to the main bodegas.
These include Bollullos del
Condado, which has the largest
cooperative winery in Andalusia
and also the Centro del Vino
Condado de Huelva. Here you
can learn about wine-growing
techniques and taste their wines
before making your purchase.
Bollullos and Palma del
Condado are good examples of
the popular young white wines
produced in the region.
Palma del Condado is best
visited in September when the
inhabitants celebrate the year’s
vendimia (grape harvest).
+ Castillo de Niebla
C/ Campo Castillo s/n. Tel 959 36 22 70.
Open 10am–2pm, 3–6pm Mon–Sun.
 Centro del Vino Condado
de Huelva
Calle San José 2. Tel 959 41 38 75.
Open 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat. Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío in the village of El Rocío
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r Parque Nacional de Doñana

The National Park of Doñana is ranked among Europe’s
greatest wetlands. Together with its adjoining protected
areas (Parque Natural de Doñana), the park covers over
50,000 hectares (185,000 acres) of marshes and sand
dunes. The area used to be hunting grounds (coto)
belonging to the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and was
never suitable for human settlers. The wildlife flourished
and, in 1969, the area became officially protected. In
addition to a wealth of endemic species, thousands of Shrub Vegetation
migratory birds come to stay here in winter when the Backing the sand dunes is a thick
marshes flood again, after months of drought. carpet of lavender, rock rose and
other low shrubs.
Palacio del
Acebrón
El Rocío
La Rocina
12
H6
El Acebuche
Prickly Juniper
This species of juniper (Juniperus
oxycedrus) thrives in the wide Matalascañas
dune belt, rooting deep into the
Palacio de Doñana
sand. The trees sometimes get
buried beneath the dunes.
Laguna de Santa Olaya
Key
Marshes
Dunes
Parque Nacional de Doñana
Parque Natural de Doñana
Road
Viewpoint
Coastal Dunes
Softly rounded, white dunes, up
to 30 m (99 ft) high, fringe the
park’s coastal edge. The dunes,
ribbed by prevailing winds off
the Atlantic, shift constantly.
Official Tour
Numbers of visitors are
KEY controlled very strictly.
On official day tours
1 Monte de Doñana, the wooded along rough tracks,
area behind the sand dunes, provide the knowledgeable
shelter for lynx, deer and boar. guides point out
2 Wild cattle use the marshes as elusive animals while
water holes. ensuring minimal
environmental impact.
Deer
Fallow deer (Dama
dama) and larger Red
deer (Cervus elaphus)
Road map B3.
roam the park. Stags
Marginal areas: Open daily.
engage in fierce
Closed 1 Jan, 6 Jan, Pentecost,
contests in late
25 Dec. n La Rocina: Tel 959 43
summer as they
95 69; n Palacio del Acebrón:
prepare for breeding.
exhibition “Man and the Doñana”.
Open summer: 9am–3pm;
4–7pm. Tel 959 50 61 22.
n El Acebuche: reception,
exhibition, café, shop.
Open 8am–9pm (to 7pm in
winter). Tel 959 43 04 32. Self-
guided footpaths: La Rocina and
Charco de la Boca; El Acebrón
from Palacio del Acebrón; Laguna
del Acebuche from Acebuche.
Inner park areas: Open summer:
Mon–Sat; winter: Tue–Sun.
ar
m Guided tour only. Jeeps leave
d ia
ua El Acebuche 8:30am & 3pm
G (8:30am & 7pm in summer).
o
Rí Booking compulsory.
Tel 959 44 38 08. &
Imperial Eagle ∑ reddeparquesnacionales.
José Antonio The very rare Imperial eagle mma.es
Valverde (Aquila adalberti) preys on
small mammals.
M
a
Izn rism
alc a
áz de
ar
Ma
Ga rism
lle a
ga
Greater Flamingo
During the winter months, the salty lakes and
ir
dalquiv
marshes provide the beautiful, pink Greater flamingo

(Phoenicopterus ruber) with crustaceans, its main diet.
Río Gua
The Lynx’s Last Refuge

The lynx is one of Europe’s rarest mammals.
In Doñana about 50 individuals of Spanish lynx
(Lynx pardinus) have found a refuge.
They have yellow-brown fur
Sanlúcar de with dark brown spots and
J Barrameda pointed ears with black tufts.
Fábrica A research programme is under
de Hielo way to study this shy animal,
which tends to stay hidden
in scrub. It feeds mainly on
0 kilometres 5
rabbits and ducks, but
The elusive lynx, only spotted with patience sometimes also deer fawn.
0 miles 5
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sparsely populated and, as it is

relatively cool in summer, it can
offer an escape from the
relentless heat of Seville. In
winter, you may meet the
occasional huntsman carrying
a partridge or hare.
Cazalla de la Sierra, the main
town of the area, seems
surprisingly cosmopolitan and is
popular with young sevillanos at
weekends. It has made a unique
contribution to the world of
drink, namely Liquor de Guindas.
This is a concoction of cherry
Scenic view over the rooftops of Lebrija with their distinctive red tiles liqueur and aniseed, whose taste
is acquired slowly, if at all.
t Lebrija Archaeologists have speculated Constantina, to the east, is
Sevilla. Road map B3. * 24,000. £
that the changing course of the more peaceful and has superb
@ n Casa de Cultura, Calle Tetuán Guadalquivir may have led to views across the countryside.
15 (955 97 40 68). ( Tue. the demise of Itálica. Certainly, A romantic aura surrounds the
the city declined steadily after ruined castle, which is situated
The pretty, walled town of the fall of the Roman Empire, high above the town.
Lebrija enjoys panoramic views unlike Seville, which flourished.
over the neighbouring sherry- At the heart of the site you
growing vineyards of the Jerez may explore the crumbling
region (see p34). remains of a vast amphitheatre,
Narrow cobbled streets lead which once seated 25,000. Next
to Iglesia de Santa María de la to it is a display of finds from
Oliva. This is a 12th-century the site, although many of the
Almohad mosque with many treasures are displayed in the
original Islamic features, which Museo Arqueológico in Seville
was consecrated as a church by (see p101). Visitors can wander
Alfonso X (see p52). among the traces of streets
and villas. Little remains of
the city’s temples or baths, as
y Itálica most stone and marble was Grazing cow in the empty expanses of the
plundered by builders over Sierra Norte de Sevilla
Sevilla. Road map B2. @ from Plaza de
Armas, Seville. Tel 955 12 38 47. Open; the subsequent centuries.
Apr–mid-Jun: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, The village of Santiponce lies
9am–3:30pm Sun & public hols; mid- just outside the site. Here, some i Carmona
Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun; better-preserved Roman Sevilla. Road map B2. * 25,000. @
mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, remains, including baths and a n Alcázar de la Puerta de Sevilla s/n
9am–3:30pm Sun & public hols. theatre, have been unearthed. (954 19 09 55). ( Mon & Thu.
∑ turismo.carmona.org
Scipio Africanus established
Itálica in 206 BC, as one of the u Sierra Norte Travelling east from Seville
first cities founded by the on the NIV A4, Carmona is
Sevilla. Road map B2. £ Estación de
Romans in Hispania. Later, it the first major town you come
Cazalla y Constantina. @ Constantina;
burgeoned, both as a military Cazalla. n Calle Paseo del Moro 2, to. It rises above expansive
headquarters and as a cultural Cazalla de la Sierra (954 88 35 62). agricultural plains. Sprawling
centre, supporting a population suburbs spill out beyond the
of several An austere mountain range Moorish city walls, which can be
thousand. flanks the northern border of entered through the old Puerta
Emperors Sevilla province. de Sevilla. Inside, there is a
Trajan and Known as the Sierra dense concentration of
Hadrian were both Norte de Sevilla, mansions, Mudéjar churches,
born in Itálica. The it is a part of the squares and cobbled streets.
latter bestowed imperial greater Sierra The grandeur of Plaza de San
largesse on the city Roman mosaic Morena, which forms Fernando is characterized by
during his reign in the from Itálica a natural frontier the strict Renaissance façade
2nd century AD, adding between Andalusia and of the old Ayuntamiento. The
marble temples and other the plains of La Mancha and present town hall, located just
fine buildings. Extremadura. The region is off the square, dates from the
Écija has 11 prominence in the 16th century.

Baroque church During the 1530s they founded
steeples. A good the grand collegiate church,
number are Colegiata de Santa María.
adorned with Inside is a Baroque retablo, and
gleaming azulejos paintings by José de Ribera. The
(see p80) and dukes were also the founders
together they of the town’s Universidad, a
make an imp- rather severe building with a
ressive sight. The beautiful patio.
most florid of these Some fine mansions, among
is the Iglesia de them the Baroque Palacio del
Tomb of Servilia, Necrópolis Romana, Carmona Santa María, over- Marqués de la Gomera, are also
looking Plaza de a testament to the former glory
18th century; in its courtyard España. Iglesia de San Juan, of this town.
are some fine Roman mosaics. adorned with an exquisite bell
Close by lies Iglesia de Santa tower, is a very close rival.
María la Mayor. Built in the The Palacio de Peñaflor is a Estepa
15th century over a mosque, also in Baroque style. Its pink
Sevilla. Road map C3. * 12,000. @
whose patio still survives, this marble doorway is topped by n Carre Aguilar y Cano s/n (955 91 27
is the finest of the churches. twisted columns, while a pretty 17). ( Mon, Wed & Fri. ∑ estepa.es
Dominating the town, wrought-iron balcony runs
however, are the imposing along the front façade. Legend has it that when the
ruins of the Alcázar del invading Roman army closed
Rey Pedro, once a palace P Palacio de Peñaflor on Estepa in 207 BC, the
of Pedro I, also known as C/Caballeros 32. Tel 954 83 02 73. townsfolk committed mass
Pedro el Cruel (the Cruel) Closed for major renovation work. suicide rather than surrender.
(see p52). Parts of it now form These days, life in this small
a parador. town in the far southeast of
Just outside Carmona is p Osuna Sevilla province is far less
the Necrópolis Romana, the dramatic. Its fame today
Sevilla. Road map C3. * 17,500. £
extensive remains of a Roman @ n C/Carrera 82, Antiguo Hospital
derives from the production
burial ground. A site museum (954 81 57 32). ( Mon. of its renowned biscuits –
displays some of the worldly mantecados and polvorones.
goods buried with the bodies. Osuna was once a key Roman Wander among the narrow
These include statues, glass garrison town before being streets of iron-grilled mansions,
and jewellery, as well as urns. eclipsed during the Moorish era. and sit on the main square to
The Dukes of Osuna, who admire the beautiful black and
P Ayuntamiento wielded immense power, white façade of the Baroque
Calle Salvador 2. Tel 954 14 00 11. restored the town to church, Iglesia del Carmen.
Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri.
Closed public hols.
T Necrópolis Romana
Avenida Jorge Bonsor 9.
Tel 600 14 36 32. Open Tue–Sat.
Closed public hols.
o Écija
Sevilla. Road map C2. * 40,000.
@ n Calle Elvira 1A, Palacio de
Benamejí (955 90 29 33). ( Thu.
∑ turismoecija.com
Ecija is nicknamed “the frying

pan of Andalusia” owing to its
famously torrid climate. In the
searing heat, the palm trees
which stand on the Plaza de
España provide some blissful
shade. This is an ideal place to
sit and observe daily life. It is
also the focus of evening strolls
and coffee-drinking. Wall painting on the ornate Baroque façade of Palacio de Peñaflor, Écija
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CÓRDOBA
AND JAÉN
Córdoba, with its magnificent mosque and pretty
Moorish patios, is northern Andalusia’s star attraction.
Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Moriles wine towns and
also Baroque treasures such as Priego de Córdoba. Jaén’s mountain passes are
gateways to the province’s beautiful Renaissance towns of Úbeda and Baeza,
and to the great wildlife reserves of the mountain ranges.
Córdoba, on Andalusia’s mighty river, the Running across the north of Córdoba and
Guadalquivir, was a Roman provincial Jaén provinces is the Sierra Morena. Deer
capital over 2,000 years ago, but its and boar shelter in the forest and scrub of
golden age came with the Moors. In the this broad mountain range. The sierras
10th century it was the western capital dominate Jaén province. The great Río
of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad Guadalquivir springs to life as a sparkling
in wealth, power and sophistication. trout stream in the Sierra de Cazorla, the
Today it is an atmospheric city, its ancient craggy wilderness along its eastern
quarters and buildings reflecting a long border. Through the ages, mule trains,
and glorious history. traders, highwaymen and armies have
Córdoba’s surrounding countryside is used the cleft in Sierra Morena, known as
dotted with monuments to its Moorish Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, to cross
past – like the Caliph’s palace of Medina from La Mancha and Castilla to Andalusia.
Azahara. To the south lies the Campiña, an Ancient castles perched on heights,
undulating landscape covered in regiments once strategic outposts on the Moorish/
of olives and vines, and green and gold Christian frontier, now overlook the
expanses of sunflowers and corn. Here peaceful olive groves punctuated by
and there are whitewashed villages and historic towns preserving gems of
hilltop castles with crumbling walls. post-Reconquest architecture.
The city of Jaén with its cathedral in the foreground, as viewed from Castillo de Santa Catalina
Bell tower of Córdoba's Mezquita
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Exploring Córdoba and Jaén

This region of rolling fields and craggy heights is divided by
the fertile Guadalquivir valley. On the northern banks of the
river is Córdoba with its famous Mezquita. The wild, uninhabited
Sierra Morena lies to the north, while southward is a prosperous
farming area dotted with historic towns, such as Priego de
Córdoba. Further east, amid the olive groves of Jaén, are the
Renaissance jewels, Baeza and Úbeda. From these towns it is
an easy excursion to the nature reserve of Cazorla, which
offers dramatic scenery and a glimpse of deer and wild boar.
Main street of Cabra at siesta time
Belalcázar Santa
r
ja
Eufemia
Zú
Hinojosa
del Duque R Gu
OU
A T
ad
alm
R EN Torrecampo
ez Puertollano
MO
RA Añora Pedroche Conquista
ER
Alcaracejos
SI Pozoblanco
Peñarroya-
Pueblonuevo a
Villanueva
r e n
Fuente
Bélmez de Córdoba
M o Cardeña
Obejuna
S i e r r a
Espiel SANTUARIO VIRGEN
DE LA CABEZA
Embalse de
Be
Villaviciosa Puente Nuevo

m
éz de Córdoba
b
ar Embalse del
Guadalmellato
ANDÚJAR
C ÓR DO BA Adamuz MONTORO
Embalse
del Bembézar Villa del Río
MEDINA Arjona
AZAHARA Bujalance
Hornachuelos CÓRDOBA Porcuna
Embalse
del Retortillo Posadas
CASTILLO DE G ua
daj
ALMODÓVAR oz
DEL RÍO
PALMA
Castro del Río
DEL RÍO La Carlota
Fernán Núñez Espejo
La Rambla BAENA
MONTILLA
Sevilla Alcaudete
Doña Mencía
Gu
AGUILAR
ad
aj
CABRA
oz
Puente LUCENA PRIEGO DE

Genil CÓRDOBA
Embalse de
Cordobilla Rute
Benamejí
Gen
Iznájar
il
Málaga
Olive groves stretching across the countryside
CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 141
Sights at a Glance
2 Palma del Río y Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza
3 Castillo de Almodóvar u Baños de la Encina
del Río i La Carolina
4 Medina Azahara o Desfiladero de Despeñaperros
5 Córdoba pp144–50 p Baeza pp156–7
6 Montoro a Úbeda pp158–9
7 Montilla s Cazorla
8 Aguilar d Parque Natural de Cazorla,
9 Lucena Segura y Las Villas
0 Cabra f Segura de la Sierra
q Baena
w Priego de Córdoba Tour
e Alcalá la Real 1 Sierra Morena The town of Cazorla on the border of the nature reserve
r Jaén pp152–3
t Andújar
Valdepeñas
Embalse del
Guadalmena
DESFILADERO DE Puente de
DESPEÑAPERROS Siles
Génave
Ján d u l a
én
dal
Beas de
SEGURA DE
Gua
LA CAROLINA Segura LA SIERRA

Santisteban
AS
Embalse del del Puerto
Guadalén r Hornos
ma
LL
Embalse Navas de
ali
AS E
VI
de Rumblar BAÑOS DE
YL D
San Juan d
G ua Villanueva del
Arquillos
A RAL
LA ENCINA Arzobispo Santiago de

la Espada
Bailén Villacarrillo
E G N AT U
Linares Embalse del

Tranco de Beas
UR
LA UE
r
vi
Santo
ui
RQ
ÚBEDA
,S
alq
Tomé
Mengíbar BAEZA
ad
PA
Gu
Gu
OR
a d a l quivir
Peal de Becerro CAZORLA
CAZ
JAÉN
Gua
Jódar
Quesada
di a
Mancha
na
JAÉN Real
M
Mágina
en
2167m Huesa
or
Martos
Huelma
Valdepeñas
de Jaén
Castillo de
Locubín
Getting Around
ALCALÁ LA
REAL Key A car is essential to explore the region
Granada fully. The main Autovía de Andalucía NIV
Motorway (A4) follows the Guadalquivir valley. To the
Major road north of the valley, public transport is
Granada
Minor road sparse, but there are frequent bus services
Scenic route to the south. Córdoba is well served by
trains, including the AVE high-speed train
Main railway
0 kilometres
with fast connections to Seville, Madrid,
20 Provincial border Málaga and as far as Lleida. Jaén is served
0 miles 10 Summit by four direct trains per day to Córdoba.
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2 Palma del Río famous matadors. As a youth he

would creep out into the fields
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 19,500.
£ @ n C/Santa Clara s/n (957 64 around the town to practise with
43 70). ( Tue. ∑ palmadelrio.es the bulls. His biography, Or I’ll
Dress You in Mourning, gives a
Remains of the walls built by vivid view of Palma and of the
the Almohads in the 1100s are a hardship that followed the end
reminder of the frontier days of of the Civil War.
this farming town. The Romans
established a settlement here,
3 Castillo de
on the main route from
Córdoba to Itálica (see p136), Almodóvar del Río
almost 2,000 years ago. Córdoba. Road map C2. Tel 957 63 40
The Baroque Iglesia de 55. Open mid-Sep–Jun: 11am– Detail of wood carving in the main hall of
la Asunción dates 2:30pm, 4–7pm Mon–Fri (to 8pm Apr– Medina Azahara
from the 18th century. Jun), 11am–7pm Sat, Sun & pub hols;
The monastery of Jul–mid-Sep: 10am–3pm Mon–Sat (& 4 Medina Azahara
San Francisco is now 7pm–midnight Fri & Sat), 10am–4pm
Ctra Palma del Rio, km 5.5, Córdoba.
a delightful hotel Sun & pub hols. & ∑ castillode
Road map C2. Tel 957 10 49 33. Open
(see p218), and almodovar.com
Apr–mid-Jun: 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
guests dine in One of Andalusia’s most dramatic 9am–3:30pm Sun & pub hols; mid-
the 15th-century silhouettes breaks the skyline Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun;
refectory of the as the traveller approaches mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat,
Franciscan monks. Almodóvar del Río. The 9am–3:30pm Sun & pub hols. & (free
Palma is the home Moorish castle, with parts for EU citizens).
town of the late El dating back to the 8th century,
Bell tower, La Cordobés, one of overlooks the white-washed To the northwest of Córdoba lies
Asunción Spain’s most town and surrounding fields. the remains of a Moorish palace
1 Sierra Morena Tour

The austere Sierra Morena runs across northern
Andalusia. This route through Córdoba province
takes in a region of oak- and pine-clad hills, where
hunters stalk deer and boar. It also includes the
open plain of Valle de los Pedroches, where storks
make their nests on church towers. The area,
little visited by tourists, is sparsely populated. Its
individual character is more sober than the usual 4 Hinojosa del Duque
“Catedral de la Sierra”, the vast, 15th-century
image of Andalusia and it makes a delightful pile of the Gothic-Renaissance Iglesia
excursion on a day out from Córdoba. San Juan Bautista, dominates the town.
It has a Churrigueresque retablo.
Rising at Fuente Obejuna

2 Peñarroya-
On 23 April 1476, townsfolk
Pueblonuevo
stormed the palace of the hated
This was once
lord, Don Fernando Gómez
an important
de Guzmán. He was hurled
copper- and iron-
from a palace window, then
mining centre.
hacked to pieces in the main
plaza. When questioned by
a judge who committed
the crime, the men and
women replied as one, 3 Fuente Obejuna
Lope de Vega The Plaza Lope de Vega is
“Fuente Obejuna, señor!”
(1562–1635) often the venue for Lope 1 Bélmez
Nobody was punished,
at least according de Vega’s famous play. The Remains of a
to Lope de Vega’s best-known play, parish church, Nuestra 13th-century castle
named after the village. Señora del Castillo, was crown a hill, from which
built in the 15th century. there are fine views.
built in the 10th century for 6 Montoro more than 50 years to finish. The
Caliph Abd al Rahman III, who Córdoba. Road map D2. * 9,600. @
townswomen sold their jewellery
named it after his wife. More n Plaza de España 8 (957 16 00 89). to raise funds for the bridge,
than 10,000 workers and 15,000 ( Tue. ∑ montoro.es hence its name: Puente de las
mules ferried building materials Donadas (Bridge of the Donors).
from as far as North Africa. Spread over five hills that span a Steep streets give the town
The palace is built on three bend in the River Guadalquivir, charm. In Plaza de España are
levels and includes a mosque, Montoro dates from the times the Ayuntamiento, former seat
the caliph’s residence and fine of the Greeks and Phoenicians. of the ducal rulers, with a
gardens. Alabaster, ebony, jasper Today the economy of this Plateresque façade, and the
and marble decoration adorned rather lethargic town depends Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia de
its many halls. on its olive groves. The solid San Bartolomé.
Unfortunately, the glory was bridge, which was designed by Leather bags and embossed
short-lived. The palace was Enrique de Egas, was started in saddlery are among several
sacked by Berber invaders in the time of the Catholic enduring crafts that are still
1010. Then, over centuries, it Monarchs (see pp52–3) and took produced in Montoro.
was ransacked for its building
materials. Now, the ruins give
only glimpses of its former
splendour – a Moorish main hall,
for instance, with marble
carvings and a fine wooden
ceiling. The palace is being
restored, but progress is slow.
5 Córdoba
See pp144–50. The 16th-century bridge spanning the Guadalquivir at Montoro
5 Belalcázar
An immense tower, part
Tips for Drivers
of a ruined castle built in Length: 190 km (118 miles).
1466, dominates the Stopping-off points: There are
skyline. In around 1480, many shady places to stop along
Sebastián de Belalcázar, the way to have a picnic. Some of
conqueror of Nicaragua, the villages along this route, such
El Viso was born here. as Fuente Obejuna, have
restaurants and bars.
Villaralto
6 Añora
Fuente la This town is famous for preserving
Lancha old customs, such as Cruces de
Mayo (May Crosses) (see p42).
Alcaracejos
7 Pedroche
A 56 m- (184 ft-)
Pelayo high granite
church tower,
with an alarming
crack in it, rises
above this village.
8 Pozoblanco Key
Pozoblanco entered Spanish
Tour route
Cordoba folklore on 26 September 1984,
when matador Paquirri was Other roads
fatally gored by a bull here. Mountain peak
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5 Street-by-Street: Córdoba
The heart of Córdoba is the old Jewish quarter
BEL
near the Mezquita, known as the Judería. A walk
BLA ONTE
M
around this area gives the visitor the sensation
NC
O
that little has changed since this was one of the
greatest cities in the Western world. Narrow,
cobbled streets where cars cannot penetrate,
secluded niches, wrought-iron gates, tiny Sinagoga
E
workshops where silversmiths create fine
QU
Hebrew script covers the
U
jewellery – all appears very much as it was 1,000 interior walls of this medieval
EL
years ago. Traffic roars along the riverfront, past synagogue, the only one
LL
remaining in Andalusia. CA
the replica of a Moorish water wheel and the
towering walls of the Great Mosque. Most of
DEAN
the sights are in this area, while modern city
life takes place some blocks north, around
ES
the Plaza de las Tendillas.
R
ZA
LA
SA
AL
EN
RD
CA
PL
JU
DÍ
OS
UEZ
RÍQ
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TO
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ÁS
CO
ND
E
Capilla de San
Bartolomé, in
Baños del Alcázar Califales Mudéjar style,
These 10th-century Arab baths now contains elaborate
house a museum recreating the plasterwork.
history and uses of the baths.
AV E N
IDA D
OCT OR FL
EMING
To Barrio de
San Basilio
0 metres 75
. Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos 0 yards 75

Water terraces and fountains add to the
tranquil atmosphere of the gardens belonging
Key
to the palace-fortress of the Catholic
Monarchs, constructed in the 14th century. Suggested route
CÓRDOBA 145
Callejón de las Flores

Colourful geraniums stand
out vividly against this
whitewashed narrow alley
Córdoba.
leading to a tiny square.
Road map C2. * 330,000.
n Palacio de Congresos y
Exposiciones, Calle Torrijos 10
(957 35 51 79). ( Tue, Fri & Sun.
VÍ _ Carnaval (Feb); Semana Santa
CT (Easter); Cruces de Mayo,
O
R Festival de los Patios (May).
BO
SC ∑ turismodecordoba.org
O
Transport
CÉ
PE £ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas

S
D
ES M (957 40 02 02 & 902 24 02 02).
AG @ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas
IS
RO
TR (957 40 40 40).
RE
A
ER
L
G
H
O
N
ZÁ
LE . Mezquita
The mighty walls of the
AL
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FR
EN
A Great Mosque hide a

RD
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CA
S
arches, pillars
and a dazzling
mihrab.
CA
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Triunfo de
San Rafael
St Raphael, the
Puerta del city’s patron saint,
Puente is honoured by
this 18th-century
S
statue. Puerta del
O Puente, nearby,
RÍ
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LO
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R
O
D
A
M
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Palacio Episcopal
today the Palacio
SA
de Congresos y
ISA
ST
Exposiciones houses
A
DE
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the tourist office.

A
RE
ND
SA
RO
D
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JO
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ET
Puente Romano
The Romans were the
first to build a bridge
over the Río Guadal-
quivir. Rebuilt many
times, the bridge still
rests on its original
Roman foundations,
hence its name.
www.ebook3000.com
Exploring Córdoba
Córdoba’s core is the old city around the Mezquita on the banks
of the Guadalquivir. Its origins are probably Carthaginian; the
name may be derived from Kartuba, Phoenician for “rich and
precious city”. Under the Romans it was a provincial capital and
birthplace of philosopher Seneca. However, Córdoba’s golden
age was in the 10th century when Abd al Rahman III created an
independent caliphate with Córdoba as its capital. Its influence
spread to North Africa and the Balearic Islands. Córdoba was
a centre of trade, industry and learning, where Jews and
Christians lived alongside Muslims. Civil war (see pp50–51)
ended the caliphate and the city was pillaged. It declined
after falling to Fernando III in 1236, although a number of Naranjas y Limones (Oranges and Lemons)
fine buildings have since been erected. in Museo Julio Romero de Torres
Julio Romero de Torres (1874–

R Mezquita E Baños del 1930), who was born in this
See pp148–9. Alcázar Califales house, captured the soul of
Campo Santo de los Mártires. Tel 608 Córdoba in his paintings. Many
+ Alcázar de los 15 88 93. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: depict nudes in stilted poses.
Reyes Cristianos 8:30am–2:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am– His unpredictable style varied
C/Caballerizas Reales s/n. Tel 957 47 05 2:30pm Sun & hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: from the macabre Cante Hondo
12. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–7pm Mon– 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Fri; 9:30am– (1930) to the humorous Naranjas
Sat, 8:30–11:30am, 3–7pm Sun & hols; 4:30pm Sat; 9:30am–2:30pm Sun & hols. y Limones (1928).
Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30– & (free 8:30–10:30am Mon–Fri). 7
11:30am, 3–6pm Sun & hols. & Built in the Umayyad Palace E Museo de Bellas Artes
This palace-fortress was built in under orders from Al-Hakam II in Plaza del Potro 1. Tel 957 10 36 43.
1328 for Alfonso XI. Fernando II the 10th century, these well- Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm,
and Isabel stayed here during preserved Arab baths reflect the 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols; mid-
their campaign to conquer classical order of Roman baths: Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat,
Granada from the Moors (see cold rooms, warm rooms and 10am–5pm Sun & public hols.
p52). Later it was used by the hot rooms. A museum recreates Located in a former charity
Inquisition (see p55), and then the social and religious history hospital, this museum exhibits
as a prison. and uses of the baths. sculptures by local artist Mateo
The beautiful gardens, with Inurria (1867–1924) as well as
ponds and fountains, are open E Museo Julio Romero paintings by Murillo, Valdés Leal
in the evenings in July and de Torres and Zurbarán of the Seville
August. Behind the palace’s Plaza del Potro 1. Tel 957 47 03 56. School (see p70).
walls are Roman mosaics. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 8:30am–
2:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–2:30pm Sun P Plaza de la Corredera
u Sinagoga & hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 8:30am– Built in the 17th century in
Calle Judíos 20. Tel 957 20 29 28. 8:45pm Tue–Fri, 8:30am–4:30pm Sat; Castilian style, this arcaded
Open 9:30am–2pm, 3:30–5:30pm 8:30am–2:30pm Sun & public hols. & square has been the scene of
Tue–Sat, 9:30am–1:30pm Sun & hols.
Constructed around 1315, the
small Mudéjar-style synagogue is
one of three in Spain preserved
from that era. The other two are
in Toledo. The women’s gallery
and decorative plasterwork,
with Hebrew script, are of
particular interest.
The synagogue lies in the
Judería, the Jewish quarter,
which has hardly changed since
Moorish times. It is a labyrinth of
narrow streets, with white-
washed houses and patios. In a
small plaza nearby is a bronze
statue of Maimónides, a 12th-
century Jewish sage. Daily market in the arcaded Plaza de la Corredera
CÓRDOBA 147
bullfights and other public this 17th-century mansion.

events. The buildings have been Purchased by a savings bank in
restored, but the cafés under the 1981, the former home of the
arches retain an air of the past. A Viana family is kept much as
market is held here daily. they left it. There are 14 beautiful
patios and a delightful garden.
P Palacio de Viana
Plaza Don Gome 2. Tel 957 49 67 41. E Museo Arqueológico
Open Jul & Aug: 9am–3pm Tue–Sun Plaza Jerónimo Páez 7. Tel 957 35 55
(also 9–11pm Fri & Sat); Sep–Jun: 29. Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm
10am–7pm Tue–Sat; 10am–3pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols;
Sun. & mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat,
Tapestries, furniture, porcelain 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols. &
and paintings are displayed in Roman remains, including
mosaics and pottery, are on
display in this Renaissance Moorish bronze stag in the
mansion. Other exhibits include Museo Arqueológico
Moorish items such as a 10th
century bronze stag found at P Torre de la Calahorra
Medina Azahara (see p142). Tel 957 29 39 29. Open daily.
Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm; May–Sep:
P Puente Romano 10am–2pm, 4:30–8:30pm. &
This arched bridge has Roman At the end of the Puente
foundations, but was rebuilt by Romano, this defensive tower
the Moors. Nearby, south of the was built in the 1300s. It houses
Mezquita, stands the Puerta del a museum about the life,
Central fountain in the garden of the Puente, designed by Hernán culture and philosophy of
17th-century Palacio de Viana Ruiz in 1571. 10th-century Córdoba.
Sights at a Glance
1 Sinagoga 7 Museo Arqueológico
2 Baños del Alcázar Califales 8 Museo Julio Romero de Torres
3 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and Museo de Bellas Artes
4 Puente Romano 9 Plaza de la Corredera
5 Torre de la Calahorra
Train Station
6 Mezquita 1km (0.6 miles)
Bus Station
1km (0.6 miles)
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Triunfo de Puerta del Puente
San Rafael 0 metres 250
ASA
DE IS
Alcázar
RO NDA
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Cristianos d alqui
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Río
Puente
Romano Key
Torre de la
Calahorra
Street-by-Street (See pp144–5)

www.ebook3000.com
Córdoba: the Mezquita

Córdoba’s great mosque, dating back 12 centuries,
embodied the power of Islam on the Iberian peninsula.
Abd al Rahman I (see p50) built the original mosque
between 785 and 787. The building evolved over
the centuries, blending many architectural forms.
In the 10th century al Hakam II (see p50) made
some lavish additions, including the elaborate
mihrab (prayer niche) and the maqsura (caliph’s
enclosure). In the 16th century a cathedral
was built in the heart of the reconsecrated Patio de los Naranjos
Orange trees grow in the
mosque, part of which was destroyed. courtyard where the faithful
washed before prayer.
Expansion of the
Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the original
mosque. Extensions were added
by Abd al Rahman II, al Hakam II
and al Mansur.
Key to Floorplan
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
KEY
1 Puerta de San Esteban is set

in a section of wall from an earlier
Visigothic church.
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
3 Capilla Mayor Torre del Alminar
4 The cathedral choir has This bell tower, 93 m
Churrigueresque stalls, carved by (305 ft) high, is built on
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758. the site of the original
minaret. Steep steps
5 Capilla Real
lead to the top for a
fine view of the city.
CÓRDOBA 149
Cathedral
Part of the mosque was
destroyed to accommodate
the cathedral, started in
Calle Torrijos s/n. Tel 957 47 05 12.
1523. Featuring an Italianate
∑ mezquitadecordoba.org
dome, it was chiefly
Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
designed by members of
8:30–11:30am & 3–6pm Sun &
the Hernán Ruiz family.
religious hols (Mar–Oct:
10am–7pm Mon–Sat). & 5
9:30am Mon–Sat; 10:30am & 1pm
Sun & pub hols.
. Arches and Pillars

More than 850 columns of granite,
jasper and marble support the roof,
creating a dazzling visual effect.
Many were taken from
Roman and Visigothic
buildings.
. Capilla de Villaviciosa
. Mihrab The first Christian chapel to
This prayer niche, richly ornamented, be built in the mosque, in
held a gilt copy of the Koran. The worn 1371, the Capilla de
flagstones indicate where pilgrims Villaviciosa has stunning
circled it seven times on their knees. multi-lobed arches.
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The Patios of Córdoba

Since early times, family and social life in Andalusia have revolved around the courtyard
or patio, which is at the heart of the classic Mediterranean house. The sleeping accom-
modation and living rooms were built round this space, which introduces air and light
into the house. Brick arches, colourful tiles, ironwork, orange and lemon trees, and pots
full of flowers add to the charm of these cool and tranquil retreats. Córdoba takes pride
in all its patio gardens, be they palatial spaces in the grandest residences or tiny
courtyards in humble homes, shared by many. There are traditional patios in the San
Lorenzo and Judería quarters and in Barrio San Basilio, west of the Mezquita.
Whitewashed
walls Tiled portrait of saint Orange trees
Festival de los Patios, when scores of

patios are thrown open to the public,
takes place in early May (see pp42–3).
The most beautifully decorated patio
wins a prestigious prize.
Andalusian Patio
This scene, painted by García
Rodríguez (1863–1925), evokes a
style of patio that is still common
in Andalusia. The patio walls are
usually immaculately whitewashed,
contrasting with the colourful display
of geraniums and carnations in
terracotta pots. Fragrant blooms of
jasmine add to the atmosphere.
Moorish-style Azulejos, a reminder Cancelas are A central fountain or

lamps, which now of the region’s Moorish attractively designed well traditionally
have electric bulbs, past, decorate many iron gates which screen provided water and
light the patio in the patios, adding to their the private patio from remains a feature of
late evening. colourful display. the street outside. many patios today.
7 Montilla 9 Lucena
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 23,000. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 40,000.
£ @ n Calle Capitan Alonso de @ n Palacio de los Condes de Santa
Vargas 3 (957 65 24 62). ( Fri. Ana, Calle San Pedro 42 (957 51 32 82).
( Wed. ∑ turlucena.com
Montilla is the centre of an
important wine-making region, Lucena prospers from furniture
but one that finds it difficult to making and from its brass and
emerge from the shadow of a copper manufacturers, and
more famous rival. The excellent produces interesting ceramics.
white wine is made in the same Under the caliphs of Córdoba
way as sherry (see pp34–5) and (see p50) it was an important
tastes rather like it but, unlike trading and intellectual centre, Statue of Santo Domingo, Iglesia Santo
sherry, does not need fortifying with a dynamic, independent, Domingo in Cabra
with alcohol. Some bodegas, Jewish community.
including Alvear and Pérez Iglesia de Santiago, with a also some noble mansions and
Barquero, are happy to Baroque turret, was built on the the Iglesia Santo Domingo with
welcome visitors. site of a synagogue in 1503. a Baroque façade.
The Mudéjar Convento de The Torre del Moral is the only Just outside the town, the
Santa Clara dates from 1512 remaining part of a Moorish Fuente del Río, source of
and the castle from the 18th castle. Granada’s last sultan, the Río Cabra, is a pleasantly
century. The town library is in Boabdil, was captured in 1483, leafy spot in which to picnic.
the Casa del Inca, so named and imprisoned here. Nearby,
because Garcilaso de la Vega, the 15th-century Iglesia de
who wrote about the Incas, San Mateo has a flamboyant q Baena
lived there in the 16th century. Baroque sacristy.
On the first Sunday in May @ n Virrey del Pino 5 (957 67 17 57).
 Bodega Alvear Lucena stages an elaborate ( Thu.
Avenida María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65 ceremony, which honours the
01 00. Open daily (call first to arrange Virgen de Araceli. Baena’s olive oil has been famed
visit). ∑ alvear.es since Roman times. At the top
 Bodega Pérez Barquero of the whitewashed town is
Avenida Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65 05 0 Cabra Iglesia Santa María la Mayor.
00. Open phone ahead to make an On the Plaza de la Constitución
appt, or e-mail info@perezbarquero. stands the handsome, modern
@ n Calle Mayor 1 (957 52 34 93).
com. ∑ perezbarquero.com town hall. The Casa del Monte,
( Mon. ∑ turismo.cabra.eu
an arcaded mansion dating
Set amid fertile fields and vast from the 18th century, flanks
olive groves, Cabra was an it on one side.
episcopal seat in the 3rd century. Easter week is spectacular,
On a rise stands the former castle, when thousands of drummers
which is now a school. There are take to the streets (see p38).
The historic crest of the Bodega

Pérez Barquero
8 Aguilar
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 13,500.
£ @ n Cuesta de Jesús 2, Edificio
Antiguo Posito (957 66 15 67). ( Tue,
Thu & Fri.
Ceramics, wine and olive oil are

important products in Aguilar,
which was settled in Roman times.
There are several seigneurial
houses, and the eight-sided
Plaza de San José. Built in 1810,
it houses the town hall. Nearby
is a Baroque clock tower. Decoration on façade of the 18th-century Casa del Monte, Baena
www.ebook3000.com
r Jaén R Catedral
Plaza de Santa María. Tel 953 23 42 33.
The Moors knew Jaén as geen, meaning “way station of Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm Mon–Sat,
caravans”. Their lofty fortress, later rebuilt as the Castillo de (to 7pm Sat), 10am–noon, 4–7pm Sun.
Santa Catalina, symbolizes Jaén’s strategic importance on Andrés de Vandelvira, responsible
for many of Úbeda’s fine buildings
the route to Andalusia from the more austere Castile. For
(see pp158–9), designed the
centuries this area was a battleground between Moors and cathedral in the 16th century.
Christians (see pp52–3). The older, upper part of the city holds Later additions include two
most interest. Around the cathedral and towards the Barrio 17th-century towers that flank
San Juan are numerous seigneurial buildings, long winding the west front. Inside are beauti-
streets and steep alleys. The city centre is filled with smart fully carved choir stalls and a
museum with valuable art.
shops, and in the evenings the narrow streets near Plaza de Every Friday, from 10:30am–
la Constitución are filled with people enjoying the tapeo in noon and 5–6pm, worshippers
the many bars. can view the Lienzo del Santo
Rostro. St Veronica is said to have
used this piece of cloth to wipe
Christ’s face, which left a
permanent impression.
P Baños Arabes
Palacio Villardompardo, Plaza Santa
Luisa de Marillac. Tel 953 24 80 68.
Open 8:45am–9:30pm Tue–Sat,
9:15am–2:45pm Sun. Closed
public hols.
These 11th-century baths are
known as the baths of Ali, a
Moorish chieftain. They were
restored during the 1980s. The
Mighty ramparts of Castillo de Santa Catalina interior features horseshoe arches,
ceilings decorated with tiny star-
+ Castillo de Santa built with huge ramparts. shaped windows, a hemispherical
Catalina This has been restored and dome and two earthenware vats
Carretera al Castillo. Tel 953 12 07 33 a medieval-style parador (inn) in which bathers once immersed
(tourist centre), 953 23 00 00 (parador). built next door. themselves. The baths are entered
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & It is worthwhile taking the through the Palacio Villardom-
Hannibal is believed to have sinuous road up to the Torre pardo, which also houses a
erected a tower on this rocky del Homenaje and the castle museum of local arts and crafts.
pinnacle, high above the city. chapel. Even more rewarding
Later the Moors established a are the great views of the R Capilla de San Andrés
fortress, only to lose it to the city, the mountains and the Tucked away in a narrow alley
crusading King Fernando III in landscape, thick with next to a college lies this
1246. A larger castle was then olive trees. Mudéjar chapel. It was founded
Olive Oil
Olive oil is the life-blood of Jaén and its province. Since the
Phoenicians, or possibly the Greeks, brought the olive tree to Spain
it has flourished in Andalusia, particularly in Jaén, which today has an
annual production of more than 200,000 tonnes of oil. Harvesting,
mostly by hand, takes
place from December
onwards. Quality is
controlled by a system
known as Denominación
de Origen Controlada.
The best product, virgin
olive oil, is made from the
first cold-pressing, so that
the full flavour, vitamins
Harvest time in one of the many olive and nutrients of the oil
groves in Andalusia are preserved. Horseshoe arches supporting the dome at
the Baños Arabes
the Virgin descending on Jaén VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

during a Moorish siege in 1430.
A second is partly Plateresque Practical Information
(see p29) and the third, by Jaén. Road map D2. * 115,000.
Ventura Rodríguez in the late n Calle Maestra 18 (953 31 32
18th century, is Neo-Classical. 81). ( Thu. _ Semana Santa
Inside, the high altar is by Pedro (Easter); Festividad de Nuestra
and José Roldán. There is also a Señora de la Capilla (11 Jun); Feria
de San Lucas (18 Oct); Romería
chapel which enshrines the
de Santa Catalina (25 Nov).
Virgen de la Capilla, Jaén’s
patron saint. The museum next Transport
door is devoted to the Virgin. £ Paseo de la Estación s/n (902
24 02 02). @ Plaza Coca de la
R Real Monasterio de Piñera s/n. 953 23 23 00.
Santa Clara
Founded in the 13th century,
Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public
Shrine of Virgen de la Capilla in Iglesia just after the Reconquest of
hols; mid-Sep–May: 10am– 8:30pm
San Ildefonso the city by Christian forces,
Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols.
Real Monasterio de Santa Clara
in the 16th century, possibly is one of the most ancient This building incorporates
on the site of a synagogue, by monasteries in Jaén. It has a remains of the Iglesia de San
Gutiérrez González, who was lovely cloister, which dates Miguel and the façade of a
treasurer to Pope Leo X and from about 1581. The church 16th-century granary. A Palaeo-
endowed with extensive has an artesonado ceiling and Christian sarcophagus, Roman
privileges. A magnificent gilded shelters a curious 16th-century mosaics and sculptures, and
iron screen by Maestro bamboo image of Christ made Greek and Roman ceramics are
Bartolomé de Jaén is the in Ecuador. Sweet cakes are among the articles on display.
highlight of the chapel. offered for sale by the nuns A short walk along Paseo de
from the convent. la Estación is the Plaza de las
R Iglesia San Ildefonso Batallas and a memorial to the
This mainly Gothic church has E Museo Provincial defeats of Napoleon at Bailén
façades in three different styles. Paseo de la Estación 29. Tel 953 10 13 (see p57) and of the Moors at
One is Gothic, with a mosaic of 66. Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Las Navas de Tolosa (see p52).
Santo
Sights at a Glance Domingo
0 metres 250
CÓRDOBA A D 0 yards 250

1 Baños Arabes D I
Baños
IN Arabes
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2 Capilla de San Andrés A.
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3 Real Monasterio de V IE
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TÓ N S. JUAN
4 Catedral RE V EN C RU Z
Castillo de
N DE P
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Santa Catalina Real Monasterio

5 Iglesia San Ildefonso de Santa Clara Museo Provincial
CL AV E
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The Moorish Castillo de la Mota and the ruined church crowning the hill above Alcalá la Real
w Priego de century. Its pièce de résistance is became Spain’s president in

the sacristy chapel, created in 1931, but was forced into exile
Córdoba 1784 by local artist Francisco during the Civil War. Today
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 23,000. Javier Pedrajas. Its sumptuous the house contains an
@ n Plaza de la Constitución 3 (957 ornamentation in the form of interesting museum about him
70 06 25). ( Sat. ∑ turismode sculpted figures and plaster and his life.
priego.com scrolls and cornices can be At the end of the street is the
overwhelming. The main altar is Fuente del Rey, or King’s
Priego de Córdoba lies on a in Plateresque style (see p29). Fountain. This is a Baroque
fertile plain at the foot of La The Iglesia de la Aurora is extravaganza, with three pools,
Tiñosa, the highest mountain in another fine Baroque building. 139 spouts gushing water, and
Córdoba province. It is a pleasant At midnight every Saturday the includes Neptune among its
small town with an unassuming cloaked brotherhood of Nuestra exuberant statuary.
air, well away from the main Señora de la Aurora, parades May is one of the liveliest
routes, and yet it claims to be the streets singing songs to the months to visit Priego. Every
the capital of Córdoba Baroque. Virgin and collecting alms. Sunday a procession celebrates
The title is easy to accept in view Silk merchants built many of the town’s deliverance from a
of the dazzling work of local the imposing mansions that plague which devastated the
carvers, gilders and ironworkers. follow the curve around the population centuries ago.
The town’s labyrinthine old Calle del Río. Niceto Alcalá
quarter was the site of the original Zamora was born at No. 33 in
Arab settlement. But the 18th 1877. A brilliant orator, he e Alcalá la Real
century, when silk manufacture Jaén. Road map D2. * 22,000. @
prospered, was Priego’s golden n Palacio Abacial, Avenida de las
age. During this time elegant Mercedes, s/n (953 10 28 68). ( Tue.
houses were built and money
was lavished on fine Baroque Alcalá was a strategic point
architecture, particularly churches. held by the military Order of
A restored Moorish fortress, Calatrava during Spain’s
standing on Roman foundations, Reconquest (see pp52–3). On the
introduces visitors to the fine hilltop of La Mota are the ruins
medieval quarter, Barrio de la of the Moorish Fortaleza de la
Villa. Whitewashed buildings Mota, built by the rulers of
line its narrow streets and Granada in the 14th century,
flower-decked squares. Paseo with later additions. Nearby are
Colombia leads to the Adarve, ruins of the town’s former main
a long promenade with views church. There are splendid
of the surrounding countryside. views over the countryside and
The nearby Iglesia de la the historic town, with its air of
Asunción is an outstanding past glories. The Renaissance
structure. Originally Gothic in Palacio Abacial and Fuente de
style, it was converted to a Carlos V are the chief attractions
Baroque church by Jerónimo Fine statuary ornaments the 16th-century to be found around the plaza
Sánchez de Rueda in the 18th Fuente del Rey at Priego de Córdoba in the centre of the town.
r Jaén
See pp152–3.
t Andújar
Jaén. Road map D2. * 40,000. £
@ n Torre del Reloj Plaza de Santa
Maria s/n (953 50 49 59). ( Tue.
This strategically situated town

was once the site of Iliturgi, an
Iberian town that was destroyed Roman bridge spanning the Guadalquivir at Andújar
by Scipio’s army in the Punic
Wars (see p48). A 15-arched 13th century, is a much- i La Carolina
bridge built by the Roman venerated Virgin. According to
Jaén. Road map E1. * 15,500. @
conquerors still spans the tradition her image was sent to n Plaza del Ayuntamiento 1 (953 66
Guadalquivir river. Spain by St Peter. 00 34). ( Tue & Fri.
In the central plaza is the Much of the building and the
Gothic Iglesia San Miguel, with original statue of the Virgin Founded in 1767, La Carolina
paintings by Alonso Cano. The were destroyed in 1937 in the was populated by settlers from
Iglesia Santa María la Mayor Civil War (see pp58–9). For nine Germany and Flanders. This
features a Renaissance façade months 230 civil guards held was an ill-fated plan to
and a splendid Mudéjar tower. out against Republican forces. develop the area and to make
Inside is the painting Christ in 20,000 men attacked the it safer for travellers. The
the Garden of Olives (c.1605) by sanctuary before person in charge,
El Greco. it burned down. Carlos III’s
The town is also renowned Captain Santiago minister, Pablo
for its potters, who still turn out Cortés, the de Olavide, had a
ceramics in traditional style. commander of the palace built on
Olive oil (see p152), which is civil guard, died the main
produced in Andújar, figures from his battle square. Just
strongly in the local cuisine. wounds. outside town is a
On the last monument to a
Sunday in April battle at Las Navas
y Santuario Virgen every year, many de Tolosa in 1212.
de la Cabeza thousands make a Alfonso VIII, king
pilgrimage to the Façade of the palace of Castile, was led
Padres Trinitarios. Road map D2. Tel
953 54 90 15. Open 10am–8pm daily.
sanctuary to pay of Pablo de Olavide by a shepherd over
7 ∑ santuariovirgencabeza.org homage to the the hills to Las
Virgin (see p43). Navas, where he crushed
North of Andújar, amid the oak the Moors. His victory began
trees and bull ranches of the the reconquest of Andalusia
Sierra Morena, is the Santuario u Baños de la Encina (see pp52–3).
Virgen de la Cabeza. Within this Jaén. Road map D2. @ from Linares
grim stone temple from the & Jaen. Tel Avenida José Luis Messía 2. o Desfiladero de
953 61 33 38. Open Wed–Mon.
∑ bdelaencina.com Despeñaperros
Jaén. Road map E1. n Visitors
Caliph al Hakam II (see p50) Centre, Auto via de Andalucia (A4) km
ordered the construction of this 257 Santa Elena, Jaén (953 66 43 07).
fortress, Castillo de Burgalimar,
in the foothills of the Sierra This spectacular pass in the
Morena in AD 967. Rising above Sierra Morena is the main
the village, it is a daunting sight gateway to Andalusia. Armies,
with its 15 towers and soaring stage-coaches, mule-trains and
ramparts. Its heights give views brigands all used the pass, so
across pastures and olive groves. hold-ups were common.
During the spring fair there is The four-lane Autovía de
a romería (see p42) to the town’s Andalucía and a railway line
shrine of the Virgen de la Encina. thread their way through the
According to local tradition, chasm, which offers views of
the Virgin made a miraculous rock formations – Los Organos
Replica of the statue of the Virgin Mary, appearance on an encina (the organ pipes) and the Salto
Santuario de la Cabeza (holm oak tree). del Fraile (monk’s leap).
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p Street-by-Street: Baeza
Nestling amid olive groves, beautiful Baeza is a small
town, unusually rich in Renaissance architecture. In
2003 it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Called
Beatia by the Romans and later the capital of a Moorish
fiefdom, Baeza is portrayed as a “royal nest of hawks” on
its coat of arms. It was conquered by Fernando III in
1226 – the first town in Andalusia to be definitively won
back from the Moors – and was then settled by Castilian . Palacio de Jabalquinto
knights. An era of medieval splendour followed, An Isabelline (see p28) style
reaching a climax in the 16th century, when Andrés de façade, flanked by elaborate,
rounded buttresses, fronts
Vandelvira’s splendid buildings were erected. In the
this splendid Gothic palace.
early 20th century, Antonio Machado, one of his
generation’s greatest poets, lived here for some years. RI
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From 1542 until 1825, this ES
Renaissance and Baroque B A R B AC A N A
building was the site of one
of Spain’s first universities.
Torre de los
Aliatares is a
1,000-year-old tower
built by the Moors. IAS
To Úbeda ADER
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PLAZA DE PA S E O D E L A CO N S T I T U C I Ó N
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Formerly a jail and a courthouse, the

town hall is a dignified Plateresque La Alhóndiga, the old
structure (see p29). The coats of arms of corn exchange, has
Felipe II, Juan de Borja and of the town impressive triple-tier arches
of Baeza adorn its upper façade. running along its front.
Jaén. Road map E2. * 19,000.
n Plaza del Pópulo s/n (953 77
99 82). ( Tue. _ Semana Santa
(Easter); Feria (mid-Aug).
∑ andalucia.org
Transport
£ Linares-Baeza 15 km (9 miles)
(902 24 02 02). @ Avda Alcalde
Puche Pardo (953 74 24 53).
PLAZA
S A N TA
MARÍA
. Catedral
The impressive
cathedral was rebuilt in
1567 by Andrés de
Vandelvira. The Capilla
Sagrario has a beautiful
OB
choir screen by
IS
Bartolomé de Jaén.
PO
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Fuente de Santa María

Architect-sculptor Ginés Martínez of Baeza
designed this fountain in the form of a
triumphal arch. It was completed in 1564.
Antigua Carnicería
L
GI
now houses the

N
offices of the Justice

SA
Department.
Puerta de Jaén y Arco de Villalar

This gateway in the city ramparts is
adjoined by an arch erected in 1521 to
appease Carlos I (see p54) after a rebellion.
To Jaén
Key
Tourist information
Suggested route
. Plaza del Pópulo

The Casa del Pópulo, a fine Plateresque palace, now
the tourist office, overlooks this square. In its centre 0 metres 75
is the Fuente de los Leones, a fountain with an
Ibero-Roman statue flanked by lions. 0 yards 75
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a Úbeda to the columns supporting

the main doorway.
Perched on the crest of a ridge, Úbeda is a showcase of Crowning the corners of the
Renaissance magnificence. Thanks to the patronage of some Classical façade are carved
of Spain’s most influential men of the 16th century, such stone lanterns. A museum of
local pottery is in the basement.
as Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of state, and his great The building also houses the
nephew, Juan Vázquez de Molina, a number of noble tourist information office.
buildings are dotted about the town. The Plaza de Vázquez
de Molina is surrounded by elegant palaces and churches and P Parador de Úbeda
is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown. The narrow streets of Plaza de Vázquez de Molina s/n.
Tel 953 75 03 45. Patio Open to
the old quarter contrast sharply with modern Úbeda, which non-guests daily. ∑ parador.es
expands north of the Plaza de Andalucía. In 2003 Úbeda Built in the 16th century but
became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. considerably altered in the
17th century, this was the
residence of Fernando Ortega
Salido, Dean of Málaga and
chaplain of El Salvador.
The austere palace is now
a hotel, which is also known
as the Parador Condestable
Dávalos in honour of a
warrior famed during the
Reconquest (see pp52–3).
R Santa María de los

Reales Alcázares
Built on the site of an original
mosque, this church, mainly
dating from the 13th century, is
being restored. Inside there is fine
Maestro Bartolomé’s choir screen at Capilla del Salvador ironwork by Maestro Bartolomé.
The Gothic cloister, with pointed
R Capilla del Salvador following the line of the old arches and ribbed vaults, and a
Three architects, Andrés de walls and offering views of the Romanesque doorway, are
Vandelvira (credited with surrounding countryside. particularly noteworthy.
refining the Renaissance style), Near the church is the Cárcel
Diego de Siloé and Esteban P Palacio de las Cadenas del Obispo (Bishop’s Jail), so
Jamete helped design this 16th- Pl de Vázquez de Molina. Tel 953 75 04 called because nuns punished
century landmark. It was built as 40. Open 8am–2:30pm Mon– Fri. by the bishop were confined
the personal chapel of Francisco Two stone lions guard Úbeda’s there. Today the building con-
de los Cobos, whose tomb lies town hall, which occupies this tains the town’s courthouse.
in the crypt. palace built for Vázquez de
Although the church was Molina by Vandelvira during the R Iglesia de San Pablo
pillaged during the Civil War (see mid-16th century. The building The three doors of this church all
pp58–9), it retains a number of gets its name from the iron date from different periods. The
treasures. These include a carving chains (cadenas) once attached main entrance is in late Gothic
of Christ, which is all that remains
of an altarpiece by Alonso de
Berruguete, Maestro Bartolomé
de Jaén’s choir screen, and a
sacristy by Vandelvira.
Behind the church are two
other buildings dating from
the 16th century – Cobos’s
palace, which is graced by a
Renaissance façade, and the
Hospital de los Honrados Viejos
(Honoured Elders). At the end of
Baja del Salvador is the Plaza de
Santa Lucía. A promenade leads
from this point along the
Redonda de Miradores, Stone lions guarding the Palacio de las Cadenas
Sun & pub hols; mid-Sep–May:

10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm
Sun & pub hols.
This archaeological museum Jaén. Road map E2.
exhibits artifacts from Neolithic * 35,000. n Palacio Marques
times to the Moorish era. The de Contadero, Calle Baja del
display includes tombstones Marques 4 (953 77 92 04). ( Fri.
_ Semana Santa (Easter).
from the 1st century AD and
Moorish and Mudéjar works in Transport
wood and plaster. It is located in £ to Linares-Baeza (953
the 15th-century Casa Mudéjar, 62 00 62 & 902 24 02 02).
among the many palaces and @ Calle San José 6
churches gracing the streets of (953 75 51 88).
the old quarter.
Statuary on the main entrance of Iglesia de P Hospital de Santiago Nearby, on Avenida de la

San Pablo Calle Obispo Cobos s/n. Tel 953 75 08 Constitución, is Úbeda’s bullring,
42. Open 10am–2pm, 5–9pm Mon– which is open during the fiesta.
style while the others are in Sat, 10am–2pm, 6–9pm public hols.
transitional Romanesque and Closed Sat in Aug.
Isabelline. Inside is an apse, which Created on the orders of the
dates from the 13th century and Bishop of Jaén around 1562, this
a beautiful 16th-century chapel colossal former hospital was
by Vandelvira. The church is designed by Vandelvira. The
surmounted by a Plateresque façade is flanked by square
tower (1537). towers. Marble columns grace
Nearby on Plaza de Vázquez the patio with its central fountain.
de Molina is a monument to the A staircase leads up to the gallery
poet and mystic San Juan de la roofed by a frescoed ceiling.
Cruz (1549–91). Today the building houses the
Palacio de Congresos y
E Museo Arqueológico Exposiciones. At the entrance is
Casa Mudéjar, C/Cervantes 6. an information office, and in a
Tel 953 10 86 23. Open Jun–mid-Sep: corner of the patio there is a Distinctive steeples above the Hospital
9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm stone-vaulted café. de Santiago
PLAZA
EN
Sights at a Glance
A R RMT O
OLLEROS
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HU
1 Hospital de Santiago
CU E A L
SAN
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2 Museo Arqueológico
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COB O
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Hospital de los
N N
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6 Palacio de las Cadenas 1º DE MAYO TA

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AVE NID A RAM ON
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N
S ANDALUCIA SAN PEDRO Convento de Alcázares

Santa Clara GO
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M EC A L L
SAN
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S
San Isidoro
TO
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D
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IST
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Bus station 0 metres 250

DA
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0 yards 250
AV
BAEZA
JAEN

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Ruins of La Iruela, spectacularly situated above the road outside Cazorla
s Cazorla resident of Cazorla, San Isicio, flows north through a delightful

one of seven apostles who valley before reaching the
Jaén. Road map E2. * 8,500. @ n
preached Christianity in Spain Tranco de Beas dam, where
Paseo de Santa María, s/n (953 71 01
02). ( Mon & Sat. _ International
before the arrival of the Moors. it turns to run down towards
Blues Festival (Jul). the Atlantic.
E Castillo de la Yedra Cars are allowed only on
Cazorla was wealthy in ancient Folklore Museum: Tel 953 10 14 02 the main road. Many visitors
times when the Romans mined Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm explore on foot, but the Centro
the surrounding mountains for Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public de Recepción e Interpretación
silver. Today it is better known as hols; mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm de la Naturaleza in the reserve
Tue–Sat; 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols.
the jumping-off point for can supply contacts for horse
visiting the Parque Natural de and bike hire companies and
Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas. d Parque Natural provides a lot of useful infor-
Modern buildings have de Cazorla, Segura mation. There are also opportun-
proliferated, but it is pleasant to ities for hunting and angling.
stroll along the crooked streets y Las Villas
between the Plaza de la Jaén. Road map E2. @ Cazorla. n E Centro de Recepción e
Corredera and the charming Paseo de Santa María, s/n, Cazorla Interpretación de la Naturaleza
Plaza Santa María. The ruined (953 72 01 02). Carretera del Tranco km 49, Torre del
Iglesia de Santa María forms a Vinagre. Tel 953 71 30 17. Open daily.
picturesque backdrop to this First-time visitors are amazed by
popular meeting place. Above the spectacular scenery of this
f Segura de la
stands the Castillo de la Yedra 214,336-ha (529,409-acre)
which houses a folklore museum. nature reserve with its thick Sierra
On the road leading to the woodland, tumbling streams Jaén. Road map E1. * 2,200. @
park are the remains of La Iruela, and abundant wildlife. Bristling n Paseo P Genaro Navarro 1 (953
a much-photographed fortress mountains rise over 2,000 m 48 07 84).
atop a rocky spur. On 14 May the (6,500 ft) above the source of
locals pay homage to a former the Guadalquivir River. The river This tiny village at 1,200 m
(4,000 ft) above sea level is
dominated by its restored
Moorish castillo (ask for keys in
the village). From the ramparts
there are splendid views of the
harsh mountain ranges. Below is
an unusual bullring, partly
chipped out of rock. It sees
most action at the fiesta in the
first week of October.
Olive oil in the Segura de la
Sierra area is one of four which
bear Spain’s prestigious
Denominación de Origen
Moorish castillo at Segura de la Sierra, surrounded by olive groves Controlada label (see p152).
Wildlife in Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas

The nature reserve of Sierra de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas protects a profusion
of wildlife. Most is native to the region, but some species have been introduced or
reintroduced for hunting. More than 100 species of birds live in Cazorla, some very rare.
It is the only habitat in Spain, apart from the Pyrenees, where the lammergeier can be
seen. The extensive forests are home to a range of plant life, such as the indigenous
Viola cazorlensis (see p25), which grows among rocks.
The golden eagle (Aquila Griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) The lammergeier (Gypaetus
chrysaetus), king of the air, circle high above the reserve, barbatus) drops bones from a
preys on small mammals descending rapidly when they height on to rocks to smash
living in the reserve. catch sight of their prey. them and eat the marrow.
Landscape
The area’s craggy
limestone heights and
riverside meadows are
part of its attraction.
Water trickles down the
mountains, filling the
lakes and brooks of the
valley. This lush land-
scape provides ideal
habitats for a diversity
of wildlife.
Red deer (Cervus elaphus), The Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica) Otters (Lutra lutra) live
reintroduced to the area in is amazingly sure-footed on the rocky around lakes and
1952, are most commonly terrain. Today, the few that remain streams and are active at
seen in the autumn months. only emerge at dusk in order to feed. dawn and dusk.
Wild boar (Sus scrofa) hide in
woodland by day and forage at
night for anything from acorns to
roots, eggs of ground-nesting birds
and small mammals.
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CÁDIZ AND
MÁLAGA
Andalusia’s southern provinces offer striking contrasts.
Beyond Málaga’s suburbs are forested mountains with awesome natural
wonders, such as the Garganta del Chorro. Behind the tourist resorts of the
Costa del Sol is the Serranía de Ronda, habitat of elusive wildlife. Here, white
Moorish towns command strategic hilltop locations. East of Gibraltar are the sherry
towns of Cádiz province and the raw coastal strands of the Costa de la Luz.
In Málaga province the mountains fall the Costa del Sol. The mountains of North
steeply to the Mediterranean. The ancient Africa loom across the Strait of Gibraltar,
port of Málaga town was a wintering and the spirit of the Moors can be felt very
place for English travellers in the 19th clearly in Tarifa and Cádiz – author Laurie
century; then in the 1960s, the narrow Lee’s city “sparkling with African light”.
strip of coast to its east and west was Between these two towns is the Cádiz
claimed by the nascent tourist industry section of the Costa de la Luz (“Coast of
as the “Costa del Sol”. Light”) (see p36) which continues up
A rash of high-rise developments around north along the shores of Huelva province.
the beaches of grey sand at its eastern end Little developed, it is characterized by
soon made the name “Torremolinos” long stretches of windswept sand, popular
synonymous with the excesses of cheap with locals and windsurfers.
package holidays for the mass market. North of Cádiz is sherry country, with its
Meanwhile, further southwest at Marbella, hills and large vineyards. To taste sherry
an exclusive playground for international visit Jerez de la Frontera – once a link in
film stars and Arab royalty was taking shape. a chain of towns on the frontier of the
Gibraltar, a geographical and a historical Christian war to reconquer Andalusia
oddity, is a decisive full stop at the end of from its Muslim rulers.
Ronda with its 18th-century bridge spanning the Guadalevín river

Whitewashed Moorish town near Estepona, Málaga
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Exploring Cádiz and Málaga

With a network of excellent roads across the region, the
mountains of Málaga province’s interior are easily accessible
to holiday-makers who are staying on the Costa del Sol. Day
trips can be made from either Marbella or Torremolinos to
the glorious Montes de Málaga and Grazalema nature
reserves or to the Serranía de Ronda, with lunch stops at
classic pueblos blancos. In the heart of this characteristic
Andalusian landscape lies the captivating town of Ronda,
ensouled by clear, stark light and the lingering aura of
Moorish times.
Further west, on the Atlantic coast beyond Tarifa where
mass-market developers fear to tread, the same spirit Outside dining at a restaurant close to the
lingers. The once great city of Cádiz and the small ports of El cathedral in Málaga
Puerto de Santa María, Chipiona and Sanlúcar de Barrameda
all make excellent bases for exploring sherry country.
Sevilla
Olvera
Puerto Serrano
Sevilla Algondales
Trebujena Setenil
Espera Villamartín
Zahara de
Embalse la Sierra RONDA
SANLÚCAR DE Bornos de Bornos LA VIEJA
BARRAMEDA ARCOS DE LA Grazalema
FRONTERA
Embalse de RONDA
CHIPIONA los Hurones
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Rivera Gaucín
San Fernando
MEDINA Alcalá de los
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Chiclana de la Jimena de
Frontera Embalse de la Frontera ESTEPONA
Barbate
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Embalse de
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Conil de la
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Minor road Almina
Scenic route CEUTA

AVE train link
MOROCCO
Minor railway
TANGIER
International border
Provincial border

CÁDIZ AND MÁLAGA 165
Sights at a Glance
1 Sanlúcar de Barrameda w Tangier pp174–5 s Parque Natural Sierra de
2 Chipiona e Ceuta las Nieves
3 Jerez de la Frontera r Melilla d Álora
4 El Puerto de Santa María t Gibraltar pp176–7 f Garganta del Chorro
5 Cádiz pp168–71 y La Línea de la Concepción g Fuente de Piedra
6 Medina Sidonia u Sotogrande h Antequera
7 Vejer de la Frontera o Arcos de la Frontera j El Torcal
8 Barbate p Ronda la Vieja k Archidona
9 Baelo Claudia a Ronda pp180–81 l Nerja
0 Tarifa z La Axarquia
q Los Alcornocales Córdoba x Montes de Málaga
c Málaga
Puente Genil Granada v Torremolinos
b Benalmádena
FUENTE DE n Fuengirola
PIEDRA ARCHIDONA m Marbella
Campillos , Estepona
Almargen ANTEQUERA Tour

Teba i Pueblos Blancos
Embalse de EL TORCAL
Guadalhorce
GARGANTA DEL
CHORRO Colmenar
Cuevas del Vinuela
QUIA
Becerro
MONTES DE AR
Carratraca ÁLORA MÁLAGA AX
E
El Burgo T H Vélez Torrox
Motril
Pizarra
Malaga
a M ÁLAGA MÁLAGA
nd Torre NERJA
Ro Alozaina Cártana
Rincón de del Mar
PARQUE la Victoria
NATURAL Coín Alhaurín
SIERRA DE el Grande
LAS NIEVES TORREMOLINOS
Ojén
BENALMÁDENA MELILLA
FUENGIROLA 0 kilometres 20
Calahonda l 0 miles 10
San Pedro
MARBELLA
So
De Alcantara
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C
Getting Around
Málaga’s international airport (see p265) is the busiest
airport in Andalusia, and opened a third terminal in
2010. The main highway linking the Costa del Sol
resorts is the A7/N340, with the AP7 toll road an
option from Fuengirola to Guadiaro. After Algeciras,
the road narrows and continues (N340 and A48) to
Cádiz. The highway A376 from San Pedro de
Alcántara northwards to Ronda is a sensationally
beautiful route. The A382 and A384 cut across the
north from Jerez towards Antequera. The route then
continues as a dual carriageway, known as the A92,
to Granada. A railway running along the Costa del
Sol links Málaga, Torremolinos and Fuengirola.
Another heads north from Málaga, stopping at
Álora, El Chorro and Fuente de Piedra. Although you
will find it possible to explore remote corners of
Cádiz and Málaga provinces using the complex bus The beach of Nerja, situated at the foot of Sierra
network, it requires some patience. de Almijara on the Costa del Sol
www.ebook3000.com
to watch horses being trained.

Nearby is La Atalaya Theme
Centre, including two museums:
the magical Palacio del Tiempo,
home to the most impressive
clocks in Europe, and El Misterio
de Jerez, which pays tribute to
the history of sherry in the area.
The old city walls flank the
Barrio de Santiago. On Plaza de
San Juan is the 18th-century
Palacio de Pemartín, the home
Entrance to the Barbadillo bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda of the Centro Andaluz de
Flamenco, which, through
1 Sanlúcar de and a holiday atmosphere in the exhibitions and audiovisual
summer. Days on the beach are shows, offers an insight to this
Barrameda followed by a paseo along the music and dance tradition (see
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 62,000. @ quay or the main street of the pp32–3). The 16th-century
n Calzada del Ejército s/n (956 38 80 Moorish old town, where many Gothic Iglesia de San Mateo is
01). ( Wed. cafés and ice-cream parlours just one of several interesting
(heladerías) stay open well past churches nearby.
A fishing port at the mouth of midnight. There are also street The partially restored,
the Guadalquivir river, Sanlúcar entertainers and horse-drawn 11th-century Alcázar includes a
is overlooked by the Moorish carriages. The Iglesia de well-preserved mosque, now a
Castillo de Santiago. The Parque Nuestra Señora de Regla, the church. Just to the north of the
Nacional de Doñana (see pp134– main church, has a natural Alcázar is the Catedral del
5), over the river, can be reached spring feeding a fountain, and Salvador, whose most interesting
by boat from the riverside quay. an adjoining cloister decorated sight, The Sleeping Girl by
From here Columbus set off on with 17th-century azulejos. Zurbarán, is in the sacristy.
his third trip to the Americas, in
1498, and in 1519 Ferdinand P Real Escuela Andaluza de
Magellan left the port intending 3 Jerez de la Arte Ecuestre
to circumnavigate the globe. Frontera Avenida Duque de Abrantes s/n.
However, Sanlúcar is now Tel 956 31 96 35 (information, press
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 186,000. k 2 for English). Open 10am–2pm
best known for its manzanilla £ @ n Plaza del Arenal, Edificio Los
(see p34), a light, dry sherry from, Mon–Fri. & 7 ∑ realescuela.org
Arcos (956 33 88 74). ( Mon.
among other producers, ∑ turismojerez.com + Alcázar
Bodegas Barbadillo. Alameda Vieja s/n. Tel 650 80 01 00.
Visitors can sip a copita (little Jerez, the capital of sherry Open daily. Closed 25 Dec, 1 & 6 Jan.
glass) of manzanilla and enjoy production, is surrounded by &8
the local shellfish, langostinos. chalky countryside blanketed E La Atalaya Theme Centre
There is also a museum on site, with long rows of vines. British Calle Cervantes 3. Tel 902 18 21 00.
Museo de Manzanilla, which merchants have been involved Open Tue–Sun. & 8 7
traces the history of the drink. for centuries in producing and
P Palacio de Pemartín
Sights in the town include the shipping sherry, and have
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de created Anglo-Andaluz Centro Andaluz de Flamenco, Plaza
de San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 34.
la O (see p28), which has superb dynasties like Sandeman and
Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.
Mudéjar portals. John Harvey – names which can
be seen emblazoned over the
 Bodegas Barbadillo bodega entrances. A tour of a
C/Luis de Eguilaz 11. Tel 956 38 55 00. bodega, through cellars piled
8 11am Tue–Sat. & 7 E Museo high with soleras (see p35), will
de Manzanilla: Open 10am–3pm enable visitors to learn how to
Tue–Sat. ∑ barbadillo.net distinguish a fino from an
amontillado and an oloroso
sherry (see p34).
2 Chipiona Jerez has a second claim to
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 17,000. @
world fame, the Real Escuela
n Calle Del Castillo 5 (956 92 26 27). Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre –
( Mon. the school of equestrian art. On
selected days, in a display of
A lively little resort town, Chipiona exquisite dressage, the horses
is approached through sherry dance to music amid colourful Antique clock in Palacio del
vineyards. It has a great beach pageantry. Visitors can arrange Tiempo, Jerez de la Frontera
4 El Puerto de Scattered around the town are + Castillo San Marcos

several fine old palacios, or Plaza Alfonso X, El Sabio. Tel 956 85 17
Santa María 51. Open for tours: 11:30am, 12:30pm,
stately houses, adorned with
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 76,000. k the coats of arms of wealthy 1:30pm Tue (free); 10:30am, 11:30am
£ @ n Calle Luna 22 (956 54 24 13). (in English), 12:30pm & 1:30pm Thu &
families who prospered in the
( Tue. ∑ turismoelpuerto.com Sat (reservations required). &
port during colonial times.
The waterfront is lined with P Plaza de Toros
Sheltered from the Atlantic quite a few first-rate seafood Plaza Elias Ahuja s/n. Tel 963 30 85 93.
wind and waves of the Bay of restaurants, among Open Tue–Sun. 7
Cádiz, El Puerto de Santa María them La Resaca (the  Bodegas Osborne
is a tranquil town which has Hangover), where, Calle de los Moros. Tel 956 86 91 00.
burgeoned as one of the main when it is dark, Open Mon–Fri (phone to arrange).
ports for the exportation of dancers perform Closed public hols. 7 &
sherry in Andalusia. A number fiery flamenco.
 Bodegas Terry
of sherry companies, such as
Terry and Osborne, have C/ San Ildefonso 3 . Tel 956 15 15 00.
Open Mon–Fri (phone to arrange).
bodegas here, which can be
Closed pub hols.
visited for tours and tasting. 7&
Among the town’s sites are
the 13th-century Castillo San
Marcos and a Plaza de Toros –
one of the largest and most
famous bullrings in Spain. The
town’s main square, the Plaza
Mayor, is presided over by the
13th-century, Gothic Iglesia
Mayor Prioral, which is worth a
look for its unusual choir. El Puerto de Santa María’s 13th-century Castillo San Marcos
Bodegas of Jerez
Real Escuela Andaluza
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www.ebook3000.com
5 Cádiz
Jutting out of the Bay of Cádiz, and almost entirely surrounded
by water, Cádiz can lay claim to being Europe’s oldest city.
Legend names Hercules as its founder, although history credits
the Phoenicians with establishing the town of Gadir in 1100
BC. Occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans and Moors in turn,
the city also prospered after the Reconquest (see pp52–3) on
wealth taken from the New World. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake
raided the port in the first of many British attacks in the war
for world trade. In 1812 Cádiz briefly became Spain’s capital
Saint Bruno in Ecstasy by Zurbarán
when the nation’s first constitution was declared here (see p56). in the Museo de Cádiz
Exploring Cádiz The joy of visiting Cádiz is to The pride of Cádiz is Los
Writers have waxed lyrical over wander the harbour quayside, Carnavales (see p43). Under the
Cádiz for centuries: “ … the most with its well-tended gardens and dictator Franco, Cádiz was the
beautiful town I ever beheld … open squares, then plunging only city where the authorities
and full of the finest women in into the centre (see p170–71). failed to suppress the anarchy
Spain,” gushed Lord Byron in The old town is full of narrow, of carnival.
1809. Modern Cádiz is a busy dilapidated alleys, where flowers
port, with a few ugly suburbs to sprout from rusting cans mounted R Cádiz Cathedral
get through before arriving at on walls beside religious tile Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat;
the historic centre. This is situated paintings. Markets pack into tiny 1–6:30pm Sun (10am–2pm pub hols).
on a peninsula that juts sharply squares, alive with the bartering Known as the Catedral Nueva
into the sea, and consists of of fish and vegetables, and (New Cathedral) because it was
haphazardly heaped, Moorish- street vendors selling pink built over the site of an older
style houses. boiled shrimps in newspaper. one, this Baroque and Neo-
Classical church is one of Spain’s
Cádiz Cathedral The cupola was built between 1812 largest. Its dome of yellow tiles
and 1838 by Juan Daura, the last in a looks like gilt glinting in the sun.
long line of architects of this cathedral. The carved stalls inside came
Baroque vaults from a Carthusian monastery. In
the crypt are the tombs of the
composer Manuel de Falla (1876–
1946) and writer José Maria
Stalls Pemán (1897–1981), both natives
of Cádiz. The cathedral’s treasures
are stored in a museum in Plaza
Fray Félix and include jewel-
studded monstrances of silver
and gold, and notable paintings.
E Museo de Cádiz
Plaza de Mina s/n. Tel 856 10 50 23.
Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; mid-Sep–
May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. 7
On the ground floor there are
archaeological exhibits charting
the history of Cádiz, including
statues of Roman emperors, such
as Trajan, and Phoenician stone
The presbytery sarcophagi. Upstairs is one of
altar was partly Andalusia’s largest art galleries,
sponsored by
displaying works by Rubens,
Isabel II (see
pp56–7). Murillo and Zurbarán, as well as
paintings by recognized contem-
Neo-Classical porary Spanish artists. On the
Neo-Classical façade third floor is a collection of
towers puppets made for village fiestas
CÁDIZ 169
around Andalusia. There are also VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

some more recent ones satirizing
current political figures. Practical Information
Cádiz.
P Oratorio de San Road map B4. * 150,000.
Felipe Neri n Avenida José León de
Calle Santa Inés s/n. Tel 956 80 70 18. Carranza, s/n, at corner of
Open Tue–Sun; mass on Sun at 1pm Avenida de La Coruña (956 28 56
Sep–Jun and at noon Jul & Aug. 01). ( Mon. _ Los Carnavales
(Feb), Semana Santa (Easter).
On 19 March 1812 a major ∑ cadizturismo.com
event took place in this
18th-century Baroque church: Transport
the proclamation of a liberal £ Plaza de Sevilla s/n (902 24 02
constitution for Spain (see p56). 02). @ Plaza de la Hispanidad
As Napoleon’s troops besieged s/n (902 19 92 08).
Cádiz during the Peninsular
War, the members of the obscura installed in Spain, but
provisional parliament it is also worth visiting for the
assembled in the church to The Baroque Torre Tavira, the highest simple pleasure of the views
draft a document that would watchtower in Cádiz over the rooftops and the sea
inspire radicals throughout from its four balconies.
Europe. In its limitations of the E Torre Tavira
power of the monarch and its Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro 10. Environs
provisions for citizens to enjoy Tel 956 21 29 10. Open daily. At the northern lip of the Bay
unprecedented rights, the Closed 1 Jan & 25 Dec. & 8 of Cádiz is Rota, a town best
constitution was ahead of its In the mid-1700s, when much known for its Spanish-US naval
time and ultimately doomed to of Spain’s trade with the base but which also claims to
fail. No sooner had the French Americas passed through have the highest population
been driven out of Spain in the port of Cádiz, the city’s of chameleons in Spain.
1814 than it was repealed merchants built themselves The southern limit of the
by Fernando VII. watchtowers from which to bay is marked by the small
observe the coming and island of Sancti Petri, believed
going of vessels – either for by archaeologists to be the
commercial interest in the site of a Temple of Hercules,
cargoes or for their own built by the Phoenicians in
amusement. More than 100 the 12th century BC over the
such towers remain as part of mythical burial site of the
Cádiz’s skyline, but only this hero-turned-god.
one is open to the public. Much of the bay lying
Baroque in style, the tower between these two points
rises above what was once the forms the Bahia de Cádiz
home of the Marqués de Ricaño Nature Reserve; a shifting
(now a music academy); it population of migratory
stands in the centre of the Old wildfowl uses this area as a
Town and is its highest point, staging post between the
reaching 45 m (150 ft) above Straits of Gibraltar and the
Commemorative plaques on the Oratorio de sea level. Its penultimate floor Doñana National Park
San Felipe Neri contains the first camera (see pp134–5).
Catamaran Crossing
Rather than drive up the isthmus into Cádiz,
you can travel by ferry across the bay
from El Puerto de Santa María (see p167).
A fast catamaran is part of the public
transportation system and provides a
regular service roughly every 30 minutes.
The catamaran takes 30 minutes to cross
the bay and is accessible for disabled
travellers. It is identified as the B-042 line
and timetables for the service can be
found on the website (Tel: 902 45 05 50;
www.siu.cmtbc.es).
A catamaran crossing the Bay of Cádiz
www.ebook3000.com
A 90-Minute Walk Around Historic Cádiz

This walk begins at the Ayuntamiento (town hall) and takes in
3,000 years of Cádiz history, most of which is defined by the
surrounding sea. The route starts on the eastern flank at the
Bay of Cádiz. It heads into the heart of the city’s warren of
small alleys and squares via the stunning topiary gardens by
the university. You are rarely out of sight of the sea, passing
Cádiz’s fish market, its most famous fish restaurant, its beach
spa and the Atlantic seafront. The walk ends at the city’s
monumental cathedral, with its golden-coloured dome
overlooking the ocean.
of many tiny neighbourhood

squares. Turn right into Isabel
La Catolica, which becomes
Calle Rafael de la Viesca and, via 5 The Murallas de San Carlos,
Doctor Zurita, enters the Plaza overlooking the Bay of Cádiz BALUARTE DE
CANDELARIA
de España. The militaristic
Monumento a las Cortes 4, 8
erected in 1912, has special
G U ÍA
D IO N
R
PA
D E D IC IÓ
resonance for the people of
S
OM
MUR
LL
BEN
Cádiz, and Spain itself. In 1812, ENR
É
IQUE
VEA
OM
III
DE LA
SM
Cádiz was home to a short-
OL
ARIN
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PLAZA DE M.
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CA
lived alternative parliament to MENTIDERO) DOR
A
IN
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Madrid, but this attempt to 9

AV
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GR
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establish democratic
L LO
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Parque
BA
TA R TE
OSA
A café-lined lane near the central Plaza rule was crushed by
CE
Genovés LÍ A PLAZA DE S
VIUDAS
San Juan de Dios the monarchy. PLAZA
MANUEL BEN
BALUARTE JU M
CAL DE FALLA
Across the plaza, DEL
0 LE B
EN
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E
BONETE PÉRE
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Plaza San Juan de Dios to turn left into q
TO
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Parque Genovés Fernando CRAM
ENTO
AR IA S
The palm-lined Plaza San Juan El Catolico, DOC

N
TOR
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MAR O BI SP
AÑÓ O CA LV O
offers many cafés and shops. which N
AEL
Y VA LE
RO
IE GO
The Neo-Classical Ayuntamiento leads to the

RA F
CON
C. D
SAN
1, built in 1799, is chiefly the seafront

work of architect Torcuato Murallas (walls) RO SA ROS
A
Benjumeda. Head north from de San Carlos 5,
the square, taking Calle Nueva overlooking the Bay of Cádiz PLAZA DEL
TÍO DE
AV. DU QU
LA TIZA ÓN
2, part of Cádiz’s busy and the town of Puerto de Playa de t
CA LL EJ
A CA RD OS O
PE ÑA LB
A
shopping district. Nueva runs Santa María opposite, an la Caleta M. PINED
SA G A
PAL MA )
E
into Calle San Francisco up to interesting destination in its RO (DE LA

SAN LEA ND
DE NÁ JE
STA
Plaza de San Francisco 3, one own right. At the Murallas, follow D IZ

E CÁ
ND
Calle Honduras 6 left, IC Ó
RA
PER
EZ U EL A
hugging Cádiz’s sea y C . V EN
walls. You pass the CAMP O DEL SUR
Alameda Apodaca 7,
one of numerous
gardens boasting vast
dragon trees, and the Tips for Walkers
Baluarte (battlement)
Starting point: Plaza San
de la Candelaria 8, Juan de Dios.
now a contemporary Length: 4 km (3 miles)
arts centre. Turn left Getting there: Plaza San Juan
again into Avenida de Dios is next to the port and
Carlos III, passing the a few minutes’ walk from rail and
Universidad and the bus stations.
lovely Parque Genovés Stopping-off points: The family-
owned Bar Terraza on the Plaza
9, with its avenue of
de la Catedral s/n has outdoor
symmetrical topiary seating with a fantastic view of
trees, open-air theatre the cathedral.
9 Taking a stroll in leafy Parque Genovés and café.
A GUIDED WALK 171
Parador to Playa de la Caleta Alcala Sacramento, turn right

At the end of the gardens is into Plaza Topete and the city’s
Cádiz’s modern parador hotel, bustling market, with stalls
refurbished in 2010 0. From preparing delicious fresh
here, you can head into the seafood snacks. Cross the
heart of the Old Town. Turn left square to Calle Libertad and
into Calle Benito Perez Galdos, into Desamparados, then turn
passing Plaza de Falla and the right into the leafy Plaza de la
gaudy, pink Gran Teatro Falla q, Cruz Verde r, which, via Calle
both named after local Maria Arteaga, joins Calle Rosa
composer Manuel de Falla, to reach the city’s most famous
interred in the cathedral. The beach, Playa de la Caleta, its
Neo-Mudéjar theatre was 19th-century bathing station t
finished in 1919, after 30 years’ (now government offices) and a
construction, and is busiest nautical college. The beach
during Cádiz’s wild February i View from one of the bell towers of the overlooks the old harbour and
Carnival (see p43). Calle Galdos Catedral de Santa Cruz two small forts, one of which,
San Sebastián, was once the
1100 BC Phoenician settlement
S 5 of Gadir and site of a temple
URA
ND
HO to Kronos.
LLE PLAZA DE
CA FILIPINAS
IC O
6
L
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C A7
PLAZA DE PLAZA DE
Alameda ARGÜELLES LASTRES Caleta to Catedral
F. C
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ER
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Apodaca
ÓN
DE PLAZA DE LA From Caleta, Calle de Nájera
LA HISPANIDAD
C AT Ó
BA
RC PLAZA DE
joins the Campo del Sur
ES
A
S
LA
ESPAÑA
A IR
seafront, but it is worth turning

L LA
BE
AN TO NI
4
OS
O
IS A BE
LÓ PE Z
RA
PLAZA left into Calle Venezuela into

EN
CA
DE MINA
BU
PLAZA the fishermen’s quarter and

ST
DE SAN
3
RE
ANTONIO
down to San Felix and the most
AV D A
PLAZA
DE SAN
AN FRANCISCO famous fish restaurant in the
SÉ
CA
. RAM
CH
JO
LL
A region, El Faro (open: 1pm) y.

E
N
SA
SA
ÓN D
Both the restaurant and the

N
RO
FR
TA
SA
AN
tapas bar here live up to the

E
AS
RI
CI
O
G
CA
AV
SC
SA
DA local saying, “Don’t leave Cádiz

O
RR
A
PAT .D
AN
w ZA EL before eating at El Faro.” Take

VA
ZA
RG
PU
LA
e
A
PO ER
ME
Felix up to the seafront and turn

S
NC TO
LU
E
2
CO
PLAZA DE left into Campo del Sur u,

C.
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O
PIT where pastel-colour buildings
NU
MUJEAL DE PLAZA DE NC
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A
stretch to the magnificent Cádiz

A
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AO
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PLAZA
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LI BE RT
Catedral i, begun in 1722

CU
SAN JUAN 1 Station

URQ
r
ES
DE DIOS
and finished only in
TA
TA
PE LO
O BISPO
DE
DE DI O
SOP
PLAZA DE RA N 1838. Several architects
LA
LA CRUZ PLAZA DE LA IS
S
VERDE AN CATEDRAL
SA N JU contributed to its mix
CA
AN
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i
SA N JU
SA
of Baroque, Rococo
S
u SUR
CAM
RA
EL PO D and Neo-Classical styles.

PO D EL S
HIGU E
CAM UR
CO The views from its bell
NC
EP
CIÓ
Key N
AR
M IR A
DOR towers repay the climb.
EN
AL Calle Pelota, opposite,
Walk route leads back to Plaza San
Juan de Dios.
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
changes name here to Calle

Sacramento, the busiest of the
shopping streets, and you pass
the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
w and the unusual 18th-
century Torre Tavira e, named
after its first keeper, Antonio
Tavira. At 45 m (150 ft) above
sea level, this lookout and
camera obscura is the highest
viewpoint in the city. At Calle e View of the cathedral from Torre Tavira

www.ebook3000.com
stand and cobbled alleys nestle outside the walls include

beneath them. the Palacio del Marqués de
The Iglesia de Santa María la Tamaron, which is a 17th-
Coronada is the town’s most to 18th-century stately home.
impressive building. Begun on
the foundations of a castle in
the 15th century, after the
Reconquest, it is a fine example
of Andalusian Gothic. Inside is a
collection of religious works of
art dating from the Renaissance,
including paintings and a
charming retablo with
beautifully carved panels.
7 Vejer de
la Frontera
Carved retablo, Iglesia de Santa María la Cádiz. Road map B4. * 13,000.
Coronada, Medina Sidonia n In Ayuntamiento, c/Marques de
Tamarón 10 (956 45 17 36).
6 Medina Sidonia ∑ vejerdelafrontera.co.uk
Cádiz. Road map B4. * 11,500. @
n Plaza Iglesia Mayor s/n (956 41 24 Attractively located on a hilltop
04). ( Mon. above Barbate, Vejer de la
Frontera was one of the first
As you drive along the N440, places occupied by the Muslim The lighthouse on Cabo de Trafalgar, near
between Algeciras and Jerez, invaders in 711, shortly after Barbate on Costa de la Luz
Medina Sidonia appears they had defeated the Visigoths
startlingly white atop a conical in battle close by (the exact site 8 Barbate
hill. The town was taken from is not known). Cádiz. Road map B4. * 22,000.
the Moors in 1264 by Alfonso X, The oldest part of town is n Paseo Marítimo 5 (956 06 36 13).
and during the 15th century the enclosed by an irregular wall ∑ barbate.es
Guzmán family were established that is protected by three
as the Dukes of Medina Sidonia towers and entered by four The largest coastal settlement
to defend the territory between gates. Within the walled area between Cádiz and Tarifa,
here and the Bay of Cádiz. After are the Arab castle and the Barbate stands at the mouth of
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), parish church, the Iglesia the eponymous river, in an area
the family grew rich from Parroquial del Divino Salvador, of marshes and saltflats. There
investments in the Americas, which was built on the site of is not much of interest in the
and Medina Sidonia became a mosque between the 14th town itself, but two small
one of the most important and 16th centuries, in a tourist resorts attached to
ducal seats in Spain. Many parts mixture of Gothic and Mudejar it are worth visiting.
of the town’s medieval walls still architecture. Later buildings A short way south down the
coast is Zahara de los
Atunes, which has
grown up along one
of the coast’s best
beaches. The epithet
of “the tuna fish” is a
reminder of an
important industry in
these waters. Barbate’s
culinary speciality is
mojama, tuna that has
been cured in the same
way as jamón serrano.
Inland from Zahara,
around the main N340
coast road, are large
swathes of wind
turbines generating
electricity for the
The fortified walls surrounding the Old Town of Vejer de la Frontera national grid. The road
Windfarms
North of Tarifa, the wind blows with
such reliable force that it is used to
drive wind turbines to generate
electricity. Spain has the world’s
second-highest installed capacity of
windpower after Germany, and the
country aims to meet 20 per cent of
its energy needs from renewable
resources by 2020. Critics argue that
windpower works only when the
wind is strong enough and that the
turbines are unsightly. Another
objection, that the blades of the
turbines are a hazard to birds, hasn’t
The characteristic turbines of a windfarm north of Tarifa been substantiated by evidence.
north out of Barbate (past the and gradually grew in q Parque Natural
fishing port) climbs over a importance through trade with de Los Alcornocales
headland fringed by cliffs and North Africa and its fish
planted with dense pine salting and pickling works. Cádiz and Málaga. Road map B4.
n Visitor’s Centre A-2228, km 1 –
woods to drop down to the Emperor Claudius
Parque Natural de los Alcornocales
small holiday resort of (41–54 AD) elevated
(856 58 75 08). ∑ alcornocales.org
Los Caños de Meca, Baelo Claudia to the
which grew up as a status of municipality,
hippy hideaway in the but its prestige was This nature reserve is named
1970s and still has a short-lived, since it was after the alcornocales, cork oak
carefree feel to it. effectively destroyed by trees that are prevalent in many
On a short sand spit an earthquake in the parts of it. They are easily
nearby stands a 2nd century and finally identified because they have
lighthouse marking the abandoned in the 6th been stripped of their lower
Cabo de Trafalgar (Cape century. The ruins, which bark, leaving the vivid red
Trafalgar), which gave include a theatre, a heartwood showing. The far
its name to the naval necropolis and several south of the natural park is
battle fought on 21 Statue of Trajan at erect columns, are in crossed by deep valleys called
October 1805. Early in Baelo Claudia a picturesque spot canutos, in which rare vestiges
the morning of that next to a beautiful of Europe’s ancient fern-rich
day, Britain’s Admiral Nelson beach beside the small forests cling on.
decided to take on the settlement of Bolonia. Apart from its wildlife, the
combined fleet of Spanish and area has a few towns worth
French ships that had left Cádiz visiting, including Jimena de la
two days earlier. The British 0 Tarifa Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera
were outnumbered and Cádiz. Road map B4. * 16,000. @
and Medina Sidonia (see p172),
outgunned but defeated the n Paseo de la Alameda s/n (956 68 and several caves holding
enemy without the loss of a 09 93). ( Tue. ∑ tarifaweb.com prehistoric paintings.
single ship. Nelson, however,
was struck by a musket ball late Tarifa, Europe’s wind- and kite-
in the battle and died soon after. surfing capital (see p36) takes its
name from Tarif ben Maluk, an
8th-century Moorish commander.
9 Baelo Claudia The 10th-century Castillo de
Bolonia, Cádiz. Road map B4. Tel 956
Guzmán el Bueno is the site of
10 67 97. Open Apr–mid-Jun: 9am– a legend. In 1292, Guzmán, who
7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & was defending Tarifa from the
hols; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Moors, was told his hostage
Tue–Sun & hols; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am– son would die if he did not
5:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & surrender. Rather than give in,
hols. & (free to EU citizens). ∑ junta he threw down his dagger for
deandalucia.es/cultura/museos the captors to use.
The Roman settlement of Baelo + Castillo de Guzmán el Bueno

Claudia was established on the Calle Guzmán el Bueno. Tel 956 68 09 Cork trees in the Parque Natural de
seashore in the 2nd century BC 93. Open daily. & Los Alcornocales
www.ebook3000.com
w Tangier
Tangier is only 45 minutes by fast ferry from Tarifa, making it a
perfect day trip. Despite its proximity, this ancient Moroccan
port, founded by the Berbers before 1000 BC, will be a sharp
culture shock for those used to life in Europe. Tangier is
vibrant with eastern colour, and the vast, labyrinthine Medina,
the market quarter, pulsates with noise. From their workshops
in back alleys, craftsmen make traditional goods for busy
shops and stalls in the crowded streets. Yet behind wrought-
iron railings the traveller will see tranquil courtyards
View into the labyrinthine Medina
decorated with mosaics, cool fountains and mosques. from the Grand Socco
Sights at a Glance
1 Dar El Makhzen RIAD S U LTA N
RU E
2 Kasbah PLACE RUE
DU Kasbah PLACE L A I T OU N
TABOR
3 Hôtel Continental DE LA
KASBAH
4 Grand Mosque PLACE DE

Dar El L'ARSENAL
5 Rue es Siaghin Makhzen Hôtel
RU
Continental
6 Grand Socco MA
E
I M OUNI
RU
TA N B RUE
7 American Legation E EL K
AP EN S
E
JNAN R A I IDI
R UE D A R
RUE
D
SOU
E
L
LA
KA
K
DE
SB
SSA
EL
DE
A
AB
H
RUE BEN
BA R
U
O
R U E M. T O
EB
OUD
S RES
U S E
UC C RU
RU E D E S CHR
E Dar El Makhzen RUE

L
RU E D U
PLACE DE
RU E DU
B AI N
Place de la Kasbah. Tel 212 39 93 LA FUENTE
NUEVA
20 97. Open Wed–Mon. & R
NA UE M
A Grand
CO MM ER
E J R Mosque
ER RU KBI
C
É TI E N S
Sultan Moulay Ismail, who IA

EL
AS SA N IER
unified Morocco in the 17th AV EN UE H
CE
AR
RU
RUE MO KHT
E
century, had this palace A H AR DA

N
D'IT
PLACE
built within the Kasbah. Parc de la DE LA
AL I E
S TANNERIE
Mendoubia E E
The sultans lived here until RU GHIN
SIA
1912. It is now a museum PLACE DU
PROGRÈS
TO
of crafts such as ceramics, IB

AB
UA
RU
U I NE
H
embroidery and ironwork. BO E

A
L
R UF OU
DI G
E R
SI R U
RT
D
The exhibits are arranged Grand Socco UE

U
E S
RU EL A L A
American PO
round a central courtyard and AY H
O ED
Legation
D
U
UB D E
in cool rooms with tiled ceilings. I IN RU
There are illuminated Korans in
the Fez Room and a courtyard 0 metres 100
in the style of Andalusian 0 yards 100

Moorish gardens.
U Grand Mosque
P Kasbah Green and white minarets rise
The Kasbah or citadel, where above this massive edifice built
the sultans once held court, is in the 17th century by Sultan
at the Medina’s highest point. It is Moulay Ismail. An exquisitely
separated from its alleys by carved gateway suggests more
sturdy walls and four massive treasures within – non-Muslims,
stone gateways. From the however, are forbidden from
battlements there are views entering any mosque.
over the Strait of Gibraltar.
The Kasbah encloses the Dar P Grand Socco
El Makhzen, the treasury house, Traders from the Rif mountains
the old prison and the law come to barter their goods at
courts. Villas once owned by this busy main square at the
American and European heart of Tangier. The square’s
celebrities, such as Paul Bowles, official name, Place du 9 Avril
the author of The Sheltering Sky, Façade of the Dar El Makhzen, the museum 1947, commemorates a visit by
are also within the Kasbah walls. of Moroccan arts Sultan Muhammad V.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P Rue es Siaghin

The Medina’s “Silversmith’s Street”
Practical Information was Tangier’s main thoroughfare
Morocco. in the 1930s and still offers a
Road map B4. * 315,000. staggering array of merchandise;
Languages: Arabic, French. shop owners will offer you mint
Currency: dirhams Visas: Visitors tea in a bid to get you to buy.
from the UK, Ireland, New Zealand,
Australia, the US or Canada require
no visa for a visit of up to 90 days.
e Ceuta
Transport
Road map C4. * 76,000. g from
g (fast ferry) from Gibraltar; from
Algeciras (see p265). n Calle Edrisis,
Algeciras by Trasmediterranea
Baluarte de los Mallorquines (856 20
956 58 75 06. See p265 for more
05 60). ∑ ceuta.si
info on getting to North Africa. n
29 Blvd Pasteur (212 39 94 80 50). The closest of Spain’s two North
African enclaves to Europe is
worth visiting if you want to dip
your toe into North Africa European architectural influence in the
without leaving Spain (although North African enclave of Ceuta
you will need to show an
identity card or passport r Melilla
on entering), or if are on
Road map E5. * 69,000. g from
your way to Morocco. Málaga or Almería. See p265 for travel
Ceuta, only 12 miles info. n Palacio de Exposiciones y
from mainland Spain, is Congresos, Calle Fortuny 21 (952 97
dominated by a hill called 61 90). ∑ melillaturismo.com
Monte Hacho, on which
there is a fort occupied by Spain’s second North African
The carved façade of Tangier’s Grand Mosque the Spanish army. The city enclave, settled by Spain in
has Phoenician and Arab 1497, is located 150 km (90
P American Legation remains, churches dating from miles) due south of Adra (in
Rue du Portugal. Tel 212 39 93 53 17. the 17th to the 19th centuries Almería), across the sea, on the
Open 10am–1pm, 3–5pm Mon–Fri. and several museums, including Moroccan coast. It takes a little
∑ legation.org the Museo de la Legion, effort to get there, as Melilla
This former palace was the US’ dedicated to the Spanish is a six hour ferry ride from
first diplomatic mission. It was the Foreign Legion. mainland Spain, but it is worth
American Embassy until 1961 and Ceuta’s shops offer the chance it as there is plenty to see,
is now a museum with an exhibit to indulge in some tax-free including the only Gothic
devoted to writer Paul Bowles. shopping. Both Ceuta and Melilla architecture in Africa and
are surrounded by high fences, samples of Modernisme, the
P Hôtel Continental as they are European entry points Catalan version of Art Nouveau
Rue Dar El Baroud. Tel 212 39 93 10 24. for illegal immigrants from parts architecture. Modern-day Melilla
Open daily. of Africa. prides itself on being a place of
Numerous intrigues have peaceful co-existence between
been played out in this hotel E Museo de la Legión its main four component
overlooking the port. Today it is Avda Deán Navarro Acuña 6. Tel 956 cultures: Christian, Muslim,
a fine place to sit and drink tea. 52 62 19. Open 10am–1pm Mon–Sat. Jewish and Hindu.
All the principal sights are
located in Melilla La Vieja (Old
The International Era Melilla), a cluster of four fortified
From 1932 until its incorporation areas separated by moats or
into Morocco in 1956, Tangier was walls, built in the 14th century
an international zone, tax free and on a hammer-head promontory
under the control of a committee jutting out into the sea.
of 30 nations. This was an era that The 19th- and 20th-century
was characterized by financial
parts of the city, however,
fraud, espionage, large-scale
smuggling, outrageous sexual
are equally worth strolling
licence and profligacy by wealthy around in, since they include
tax exiles, such as heiress Barbara an abundance of splendid
Hutton. Celebrities such as Henri Modernisme and Art Deco
Matisse, Jack Kerouac and Orson Orson Welles, once a familiar sight on buildings. There are around
Welles added colour to the scene. the streets of Tangier 900 period edifices in Melilla.
There is also a small beach.
www.ebook3000.com
t Gibraltar
Native Gibraltarians are descendents of British, Genoese Jews,
Portuguese and Spanish who remained after the Great Siege
(see p56). Britain seized Gibraltar during the War of the
Spanish Succession in 1704, and was granted it “in perpetuity”
by the Treaty of Utrecht (see p56) nine years later. As the
gateway to the Mediterranean, the Rock was essential to
Britain in colonial times. Tensions over Gibraltar have now
eased, with more co-operation between Spain and Britain
expected in the future. Each year, around 4 million people
stream across the frontier at La Línea to visit this speck of The Keep
England bolted on to Andalusia. Pubs, fish and chips, pounds The lower part of this Moorish
sterling and bobbies on the beat all contrast with Spain. castle, built in the 8th century, is
still used to house Gibraltar’s
prison population.
Siege Tunnels
Soldiers’ barracks and storerooms
fill 50 km (31 miles) of tunnels.
KEY
1 The airport runway currently the Strait of Gibraltar to

crosses over the main road from North Africa.
La Línea to Gibraltar.
5 The 100-Ton Gun was put
2 Spanish border here in 1884; it took two hours
and customs to load and it could fire shells
3 The Apes’ Den is home to weighing 910 kg (2,000 lb).
Gibraltar’s tailless apes; legend 6 A cable car runs from
has it that the British will keep the centre of the town to the
the Rock only as long as the Top of the Rock, Gibraltar’s
apes remain. summit, which, at 450 m
4 Europa Point, on the (1,475 ft) high, is often
southernmost tip, looks across shrouded in mist.
United Kingdom.
Road map C4. * 35,000. n
Cathedral Square, Duke of Kent
House (200 74 950). ( Wed, Sat.
_ National Day (10 Sep).
Gibraltar Museum Open Mon–
Sat. Closed public hols.
& The Keep, St Michael’s Cave,
St Michael’s Cave Apes’ Den Open daily. Siege
La Línea de la Concepción, with Gibraltar
During World War II these caves Tunnels Open Mon–Sat. Closed in the distance
served as a bombproof military 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 Currency:
hospital. These days classical
concerts are performed here.
Gibraltar pound, pound sterling. y La Línea de la
Visas: not required for citizens of
the EU, US, Canada or Australia. Concepción
∑ gibraltar.gov.uk Cádiz. Road map C4. * 60,000. @
n Avenida de 20 Abril s/n (956 78 41
Transport
k Gibraltar. 35). ( Wed.
@ Waterport coach park.
La Línea is a town on the
Spanish side of the border with
Gibraltar. Its name, “The Line”,
refers to the old walls that once
formed the frontier, but were
demolished during the
Napoleonic wars to prevent the
French using them for defence.
Now it is a lively trading town,
with several hotels patronized by
people who want to avoid the
higher prices of Gibraltar hotels.
The elegant marina at Sotogrande
u Sotogrande
Cádiz. Road map C4. * 2,000.
@ San Roque. n Plaza de Armas,
s/n – Antigua Casa Consistorial
(956 69 40 05). ( Sun.
Just above Gibraltar, on the Costa

del Sol, Sotogrande is an exclusive
residential seaside town, popular
with wealthy Gibraltarians, who
commute daily to the Rock. The
marina is filled with expensive
yachts and lined with excellent
Gibraltar Museum seafood restaurants.
This museum, built on the foundations of Moorish Nearby there are several
baths, houses an exhibition of Gibraltar’s history immaculately manicured golf
under British rule. courses (see p36).
www.ebook3000.com
i A Tour Around the Pueblos Blancos

Instead of settling on Andalusia’s plains, where they
would have fallen prey to bandits, some Andalusians
chose to live in fortified hilltop towns and villages.
The way of life in these pueblos blancos – so called
because they are whitewashed in the Moorish
tradition – has barely changed for centuries. Touring
the pueblos blancos, which crown the mountains
rising sharply from the coast, will show visitors a 3 Zahara de la Sierra This fine pueblo
blanco, a tightly huddled hillside village
world full of references to the past. Yet today they
below a castle ruin, has been declared a
are working agricultural towns, national monument.
not just tourist sights.
4 Grazalema At the heart
of the Parque Natural de la
Embalse
Sierra de Grazalema, this de Zahara
2 Ubrique village has the highest
This town, nestling at rainfall in Spain. Lush
the foot of the Sierra de vegetation fills the park.
Ubrique, has become a
flourishing producer of
leather goods.
Sevilla
El Bosque Benamahoma
Cádiz,
Jerez
Benaocaz
Embalse de los
Hurones
Parque Natural
1 Arcos de Charco de Sierra de
la Frontera los Hurones Grazalema
Sierra de
This strategically Ubrique
positioned town has
Cortes de la
been fortified for Frontera
centuries. From the
commanding heights of
this stronghold, there are fine
views over the Guadalete valley. rg a
nta
ga
oz
8 Jimena de la Frontera
oH
Rí Parque Natural de
An expanse of cork and olive trees los Alcornocales-
blankets the hills leading up to this Sierra del Aljibe
village. A ruined Moorish castle, iaro
ad
which is open to visitors, overlooks
Gu
Río
the surroundings where wild bulls La Sauceda

graze peacefully.
7 Gaucín
From here there are
unsurpassed vistas over the
Mediterranean, the Atlantic,
the great hump of Gibraltar 0 km 10
and across the strait to the Rif
mountains of North Africa. 0 miles 05
o Arcos de la
Frontera
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 30,000.
@ n Calle Cuesta de Belén 5 (956
70 22 64). ( Fri.
Arcos has been inhabited since

prehistoric times. Its strategic
position encouraged
settlement, first as the Roman
5 Setenil
The streets of this white town town of Arcobriga, and later as
are formed from the ledge of a the stronghold of Medina
gorge, carved from tufa rock by Arkosh under the Caliphate
the river Trejo. of Córdoba (see p50). It was
captured by Alfonso X’s (see Roman theatre set amid the ruins
p52) Christian forces in 1264. of Acinipo (Ronda la Vieja)
An archetypal white town,
it has a labyrinthine Moorish p Ronda la Vieja
Ronda
la Vieja quarter that twists up to its Málaga. Road map C3. £ @ Ronda.
ruined castle. At its centre is the Tel 952 21 36 40 & 630 42 99 49.
Plaza de España, one side of n Avenida de Blas Infante, s/n (952
which gives views across 18 71 19). Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–
sunbaked plains. Fronting the Sat, 9am–2:30pm Sun. Cuevas de la
square are the superb Parador Pileta by guided tour (twice daily).
de Arcos de la Frontera (see ∑ turismoderonda.es
p218) and the Iglesia de Santa
María de la Asunción, a late Ronda la Vieja is the modern
Gothic-Mudéjar building worth name for the remains of the
seeing for its extravagant Roman city of Acinipo, 12 km
Baroque choir stalls and (7 miles) northwest of Ronda
La Cueva
de la Pileta Renaissance altarpiece. A small (see pp180–81). An important
museum displays the church town in the 1st century AD, it
treasures. More striking is the later declined, unlike the growing
massive, Gothic Parroquia de town of Ronda, which was
6 Ronda San Pedro. Its thick-set tower called Arunda by the Romans.
With the Tajo provides a view over the sheer The ruins are beautifully sited
gorge as an efficient drop down to the Guadalete on a hillside where only a
moat, Ronda was one of river. Nearby is the Palacio del fraction of the town has been
the last towns recaptured Mayorazgo with an ornate excavated. The town’s most
from the Moors. It later Renaissance façade. The significant sight is the theatre,
became the cradle of Ayuntamiento is also worth but lines of stones also mark
modern bullfighting seeing, particularly to foundations of
(see pp180–81).
view its beautiful houses, and of the
Key Mudéjar ceiling. forum and other
public buildings.
Tour route P Palacio del Mayorazgo Along the C339,
Other roads Calle San Pedro 2. Tel 956 70 22 km (12 miles) from
30 13 (Casa de Cultura). Open Ronda la Vieja, are
10am–2pm Mon–Fri. 7 the Cuevas de la
Tips for Drivers
P Ayuntamiento Pileta, the site of pre-
Tour length: 205 km (135 miles). Plaza del Cabíldo 1. historic cave paintings
Stopping-off points: Ronda has Tel 956 70 22 64. Open Mon– dating from about
a wide range of hotels and Fri. Closed public hols. 25,000 BC (see p47).
restaurants. Arcos de la Frontera
has a parador (see p218), other
hotels and restaurants. Gaucín,
Jimena de la Frontera and Zahara
de la Sierra also have places to
stay and eat. Grazalema has a
resort for families and Setenil a
couple of bars and a hotel.
Ubrique has a hotel.
The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción

www.ebook3000.com
a Street-by-Street: Ronda
One of the most spectacularly located cities in Spain,
Ronda sits on a massive rocky outcrop, straddling a
precipitous limestone cleft. Because of its impregnable
position this town was one of the last Moorish bastions,
finally falling to the Christians in 1485. On the south side
perches a classic Moorish pueblo blanco (see p178) of
cobbled alleys, window grilles and dazzling whitewash – . Puente Nuevo
most historic sights are in this old town. Across the Building the “New Bridge” over the nearly
gorge in El Mercadillo, the newer town, is one of Spain’s 100 m (330 ft) deep Tajo gorge was a feat of
oldest bullrings. civil engineering in the late 18th century.
Convento de Santo
To El Mercadillo, Plaza de Domingo was the local
Toros and Parador de headquarters of the
Ronda (see p219) Inquisition. GO
IN
M
O
D
SANTO
SA
AN N
TO
NIO
CA
LL
E
AR
MI
ÑÁ
Casa del Rey Moro N
TEN
From this 18th-century mansion,

built on the foundations of a
OR
Moorish palace, 365 steps lead

IO
down to the river.
Key 0 metres 75
Suggested route 0 yards 75

PL AM
C
AZ PIL
A LO
Mirador El
DE
Campillo
L
. Palacio Mondragón
Much of this palace was rebuilt after
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), but its
arcaded patio is adorned with original
Moorish mosaics and plasterwork.
Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra

Bizarre images of biblical scenes and South
American Indians embellish the façade of this
palace, built in Renaissance style in the 18th century.
Málaga. Road map C3. * 34,000.
n Paseo de Blas Infante, s/n
(95 218 71 19). ( Sun. _ Fiesta
Romeria Virgen de la Cabeza
(May), Feria de Málaga (Aug),
Feria de Pedro Romero (Sep).
Casa del Rey Moro: Open
gardens only. & Palacio
del Marqués de Salvatierra:
Closed to the public.
Palacio Mondragón: Open daily.
& 7 Plaza de Toros and Museo
Taurino: Open daily. & 7
Baños Arabes: Open daily.
To Puente Viejo, ∑ turismoderonda.es
Baños Arabes
Transport
£ Avda Andalucía s/n (902 24
Santa María la Mayor 02 02). @ Pl Concepción García
A minaret and a Muslim prayer Redondo s/n (952 87 22 62).
M
AR
niche survive from the

QU
13th-century mosque that once

ÉS
stood on the site of this church.

DE
Minarete San Sebastián

S A LV
is all that remains of a

14th-century mosque.
AT I E
RRA
EN Ayuntamiento
M
R The town hall was remodelled in the
A
C 20th century and incorporates parts of
ES
older buildings. It has a two-tier

CA
arcaded façade and Mudéjar ceiling.

LE
RA
Bullfighting at Ronda
Ronda’s Plaza de Toros is the spiritual home of bull-
AR
M fighting. Inaugurated in 1785, it is one of the oldest,
IÑ
ÁN most important bullrings in Spain. Aficionados travel
from all over the country for the singular atmosphere
of the Corrida Goyesca (see p40); millions watch the
spectacle on television. It is the dream of every
aspiring matador to fight at Ronda. The classic
Ronda style (more severe than the
exuberant School of Seville)
was developed by Pedro
PLAZA Romero. Born in 1754, he is
DUQUESA known as the father of
D E PA R C E N T modern bullfighting
(see also pp30–31).
Romero, who killed

over 6,000 bulls
www.ebook3000.com
s Parque Natural It is a classic white town (pueblo

Sierra de las Nieves blanco, see pp178–9), perched
on a hillside overlooking an
Málaga Road map C3. nCalle expanse of wheat fields, citrus
Jacaranda 1, Cortes de la Frontera orchards and olive groves.
(951 04 21 00).
The town’s cobbled streets
radiate from the 18th-century
One of Andalusia’s least Iglesia de la Encarnación. At
accessible areas, this UNESCO the weekly market, stalls of farm
biosphere reserve southeast of produce and clothing fill nearby
Ronda extends between Parauta streets. On the higher of Álora’s
(to the east), Tolox (west), El twin hills stands the Castillo,
Burgo (north) and Istán (south). with a cemetery of niche tombs
Interestingly, it features both set in neat blocks.
extreme highs and lows,
reaching up to the peak of + Castillo Árabe
Torrecilla (1,919 m/ 6,295 ft) Calle Ancha. Tel 952 49 55 77
and down to one of the world’s (tourist office). Open daily.
deepest potholes, GESM, which Olive groves between the villages of Álora
is 1,100 m (3,608 ft) deep. The and Antequera
f Garganta del
sierra is popular for caving and
rock climbing, and it also has d Álora Chorro
some moderate to difficult Málaga. Road map C3. * 13,000. £ Málaga. Road map C3. £ El Chorro.
signposted walking trails. @ n Plaza Baja de la Despedía (952 @ Parque Ardales. n Avenida
A short way south, near Ojén, 49 83 80). ( Mon. ∑ alora.es Constitución s/n (952 49 55 77).
is the beauty spot of Refugio de
Juanar, which offers gentle walks Situated in the Guadalhorce Up the fertile Guadalhorce
through mixed woodland to a river valley, Álora is an valley, 12 km (7 miles) on from
viewpoint overlooking the coast. important agricultural centre. Álora, is one of the geographical
wonders of Spain. The Garganta
del Chorro is an immense gaping
chasm 180 m (590 ft) high,
slashing through a limestone
mountain. In some places,
where the Guadalhorce river
hurtles through the gorge,
waters foaming white, it is only
10 m (30 ft) wide. Visitors can
access the Caminito del Rey
walkway, which is attached to
the walls of the gorge over 100 m
(330 ft) above the river. Tickets
can be booked on the website.
} Caminito del Rey

Open Tue–Sun. ∑ caminodelrey.info
g Fuente de Piedra
Málaga. Road map C3. £ @ n
C/Castillo 1 (952 73 54 53).
The largest of several lakes in

an expanse of wetlands north
of Antequera, the Laguna de la
Fuente de Piedra teems with
bird life, including huge flocks of
flamingos. In March, every year,
up to 25,000 of them arrive to
breed before migrating back
to West Africa. Visitors should
be aware that if there is drought
in the region, there will be
The Garganta del Chorro, rising high above the Guadalhorce river fewer birds breeding.
Apart from flamingos, you will

also be able to admire cranes,
herons, bee-eaters, snow-white
egrets, as well as many species
of ducks and geese. Their
numbers have been on the
increase since conservation
and anti-hunting laws were
introduced and the area
declared a sanctuary. A road off
the N334 leads to the lake side,
from where visitors can watch
the birds. Be advised that
restraint is required: it is
forbidden to join the waders in
the lake. Information is available Limestone formations in the Parque Natural del Torcal
from a visitors’ centre near the
village of Fuente de Piedra. Torre del Papabellotas. In the walks (up to two hours) are
town below, the 18th-century marked by yellow arrows;
Palacio de Nájera is the setting longer walks are marked in red.
for the Municipal Museum, There are canyons, caves,
whose star exhibit is a 2,000-year- mushroom-shaped rocks and
old statue of a Roman boy. other geological curiosities to
On the outskirts of town are see. The park also boasts fox
three large prehistoric dolmens and weasel populations, and
that may have been the burial colonies of eagles, hawks and
chambers of tribal leaders. Two of vultures. It also protects rare
them – Viera and Menga – stand plants and flowers.
together, the latter the oldest and
most impressive of all, dated at
between 4,000 and 4,500 years k Archidona
old. A short distance away is Málaga. Road map D3. * 8,200. £
the Dolmen de Romeral, which @ n Plaza Ochavada 2 (952 71 64
has a vaulted central chamber. 79). ( Mon.
P Plaza de Toros This small town is worth a stop

The triumphal 16th-century Arco de los Crta de Sevilla. Tel 952 70 81 42. Open to see its extraordinary Plaza
Gigantes, Antequera Tue–Sun. Museo Taurino: Open Tue– Ochavada. This is an octagonal
Sun. square built in the 18th century
h Antequera E Palacio de Nájera in a French style, but which also
Coso Viejo. Tel 952 70 83 00. Open incorporates traditional
Málaga. Road map D3. * 42,000. £
@ Plaza San Sebastián 7 (952 70 25 9:30am–2pm, 4:30–6:30pm Tue–Sat (to Andalusian features.
7pm Sat), 10am–2pm Sun. & ( Tue. From the Ermita Virgen de
05). ∑ antequera.co.uk
T Dolmens:
Gracia on a hillside above the
This busy market town has long Tel 952 71 22 06. Open Apr–mid-Jun: town, there are commanding
been strategically important; 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat; mid-Jun–mid- views over rolling countryside.
first as Roman Anticaria, and Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat; mid-Sep–
later as a Moorish border Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat; all year:
fortress defending Granada. 9am–3:30pm Sun & pub hols. &
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
del Carmen, with its massive
Baroque altarpiece, is not to be j El Torcal
missed. To the west of here, at the Málaga. Road map D3. £ @ Ante-
opposite end of the town, is the quera. n Ctra C3310, 10 km (6 miles)
19th-century Plaza de Toros, with south of Antequera (952 24 33 24).
its museum of bullfighting.
High on a hill overlooking the A huge exposed hump of
town is the Castillo Arabe, a limestone upland battered into
13th-century Moorish castle. bizarre formations by wind and
Visitors cannot go inside, but can rain, the Parque Natural del
walk round the castle walls – the Torcal is very popular with hikers.
approach is through the 16th- Most follow a network of foot-
century Arco de los Gigantes. paths leading from a visitors’ The 18th-century, octagonal Plaza
There are fine views from the centre in the middle; short Ochavada in Archidona
www.ebook3000.com
l Nerja
Málaga. Road map D3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Puerta del Mar 2 (952 52 15
31). ( Tue. ∑ nerja.org
This fashionable resort at the

eastern extremity of the Costa
del Sol lies at the foot of the
beautiful mountains of the Sierra
de Almijara, and is perched on a
cliff above a succession of sandy
coves. The main area for tourist
activity in the resort centres
around the promenade, running
along a rocky promontory The town of Nerja overlooking the sea from El Balcón de Europa
known as El Balcón de Europa
(the Balcony of Europe). Spread archaeological interest, which impressive underground
along its length is a hotel and were discovered in 1959. Wall auditorium large enough to
cafés with outdoor tables. There paintings (see p46) found in hold audiences of several
are sweeping views up and them are believed to be about hundred. Concerts are held
down the coast. On the edges 20,000 years old. Unfortunately there in the summer.
of town, holiday villas and most are closed to public
apartments proliferate. view, but a few of the many T Cuevas de Nerja
Due east of the town are the cathedral-sized chambers are Carretera de las Cuevas de Nerja.
Cuevas de Nerja, a series of open to the public. One of Tel 952 52 95 20. Open daily. Closed
vast caverns of considerable these has been turned into an 1 Jan, 15 May. & ∑ cuevadenerja.es
c Málaga the vine disease that ravaged collection of 13th–20th century

the vineyards of Europe, ended Spanish art while the Centre
Málaga. Road map D3. * 650,000. the prosperity of its vineyards. Pompidou has an impressive
k £ @ n Pasaje de Chinitas 4 This, however, was when tourists collection of 20th and
(951 30 89 11). ( Sun. began to winter here. 21st-century artworks. The
∑ malagaturismo.com
The old town at the Museo de Picasso displays
A thriving port, Málaga heart of Málaga radiates works by the native artist and
is Andalusia’s second from the catedral. It was the Casa Natal de Picasso,
largest city. Initial begun in 1528 by Diego where the painter spent his
impressions tend to be de Siloé, but it is a early years, is now the
of ugly suburbs and bizarre mix of styles. Its headquarters of the
high-rise blocks, but Façade detail, Málaga construction was inter- Picasso Foundation.
this belies a city that is Cathedral rupted by an earth-
rich with history, and is quake in 1680. The Amphitheatre
filled with monuments and half-built second tower,
the vibrancy of Andalusia. abandoned in 1765 when funds
Malaca, the Phoenician (see ran out, is the reason for its
pp46–7) city, was an important nickname: La Manquita
trading port on the Iberian (the one-armed one).
peninsula. After Rome’s victory Málaga’s Museo
against Carthage in 206 BC (see Carmen Thyssen
p48), it became a major port for houses a fine
Roman trade with Byzantium.
Málaga’s heyday came in the
years after 711, when it fell to
the Moors and became their
main port serving Granada. It
was recaptured by the Christians
in 1487 after a bloody siege. The
Moors left behind were expelled
(see pp54–5) after a rebellion.
Following a long decline, the Entrance
city flourished again during the
19th century, when Málaga wine
Puerta de las Puerta
became one of Europe’s popular
Columnas Principal Plaza de Armas
drinks. Unfortunately, phylloxera,
z The Axarquia the coast and easily accessible x Montes de

from Nerja; and Comares (north Málaga
Málaga. Road map D3. n San
Antonio 1, Cómpeta (952 51 60 06).
east of Vélez-Málaga), perched
on top of an impressive outcrop Málaga. Road map D3. @ to
∑ competa.es
of rock from which there are Colmenar. n Lagar de Torrijos, on
The hills behind Torre del Mar superb views. C345 at km 544,3 (951 04 21 00).
and Nerja make up the pretty
upland region of the Axarquia, To the north and east of Málaga
whose main town, Vélez- are the beautiful hills of Montes
Málaga, has a few old streets de Málaga. A wide area is
and the remains of a castle undergoing reforestation and
to explore. forms the Parque Natural de
A better base for excursions Montes de Málaga. Wildlife
is the attractive sweet wine- thrives in the strongly scented
producing town of Cómpeta, undergrowth of lavender and
20 km (12 miles) from the coast wild herbs. Occasionally, there are
by winding mountain roads. glimpses of wild cats, stone
From here, there is an interesting martens, wild boars, eagles and
“Mudejar route” down the hill other birds of prey.
and up the valley to Archez and Walkers can follow marked
Salares, villages whose church trails. A farmhouse has been
towers are undisguised brick restored and converted into an
minarets dating from the 15th ethnological museum. Along the
and 13th centuries respectively. C345 road between Málaga and
Two other villages worth Narrow street in the Barrio de San the park, there are sensational
visiting are Frigiliana, close to Sebastián, Vélez-Málaga views down to the sea.
The Torre del Homenaje was On the hill directly behind the
Cuartos de built during the reign of Abd Alcazaba are the ruins of the
Granada Baño al Rahman I (756–88). 14th-century Moorish Castillo
de Gibralfaro.
Eastwards, on the road to Vélez
Málaga, is the unspoilt beach of
Rincón de la Victoria (see p37).
E Museo Carmen Thyssen

Plaza Carmen Thyssen. Tel 902 30 31
31. Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
E Centre Pompidou Malaga
Pasaje Doctor Carillo Casaux, s/n
Muelle Uno. Tel 951 92 62 00
Open 9:30am– 8pm Wed–Mon
(11am–10pm 15 Jun– 15 Sep). &
E Museo de Picasso
Calle San Agustín 8. Tel 952 12 76 00.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (later in
summer). Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. &
E Casa Natal de Picasso
Plaza de la Merced 15. Tel 951 92 60 60.
Aljibe Barrio de Casas Open 9:30am–8pm daily.
+ Castillo de Gibralfaro
The Museo Arqueológico Tel 952 12 20 20. Open 9am–6pm daily
Sala de Siglo XVI has a Moorish-style ceiling, (to 8pm summer). &
constructed in the 1920s.
Málaga’s Alcazaba + Alcazaba
Calle Alcazabilla s/n. Tel 951 92 61 89.
Málaga’s vast Alcazaba was built between the 8th and 11th
Open 9am–6pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 24,
centuries on the site of a Roman town. The two are curiously
25 & 31 Dec.
juxtaposed, with the Roman amphitheatre, discovered in 1951
and now almost fully excavated, just outside the entrance. The E Museo Arqueológico
remains of Moorish walls can be seen, but the real attraction is Calle Alcazabilla. Tel 951 30 89 11. Closed
the Museo Arqueológico, housing collections of Phoenician, for renovations until spring 2016. &
Roman and Moorish artifacts, including fine ceramics. ∑ museosdeandalucia.es
www.ebook3000.com
n Fuengirola
£ @ n Avda Jesús Santos Rein 6
(952 46 74 57). ( Tue, Sat & Sun.
∑ fuengirola.org
The town of Fuengirola is another

package-holiday resort, although
some of the wilder elements of its
mostly British clientele have
moved on to newer pastures.
Nowadays Fuengirola attracts
mainly families.
During the mild winter
Torremolinos, the capital of the Costa del Sol’s tourist industry months, retired people from the
UK come to stroll along the
v Torremolinos b Benalmádena promenade, go to English bars
Málaga. Road map D3. * 50,000. Málaga. Road map D4. * 66,000. £
and waltz the afternoons away
£ @ n Plaza Blas Infante @ n Antonio Machado (952 44 24 94). at hotel tea dances.
1 (952 37 95 12). ( Thu.
∑ ayto-torremolinos.org Benalmádena hosts an array of
attractions, including the
Torremolinos grew from a village impressive Castillo de
in the 1950s to one of the busiest Colomares built between 1987
resorts on the Costa del Sol, and 1994 as homage to
where British and, to a lesser Christopher Columbus. The
extent, German holiday-makers monument reflects architectural
enjoyed their cheap package styles that influenced Spanish
holidays. It also developed its culture, including Byzantine,
red-light district and a raffish Romanesque and Arabic, and
nightlife to provide “recreation” carved into the structure are
for sailors of the US navy in representations of Spain’s history.
port at Málaga. Only the exterior may be visited. Boxes of fresh fish, Fuengirola
The town was cleaned up as Europe’s largest Buddhist
part of a scheme that spent monument, the Benálmadena
huge sums on new squares, a Stupa, is also located here. m Marbella
promenade, green spaces and
enlarging the beach with millions P Castillo de Colomares
@ n Glorieta de la Fontanilla s/n,
of tonnes of golden sand. Carretera del Sol (El Viñazo). Tel 952 44
Paseo Maritimo (952 77 14 42).
Although Torremolinos still 88 21. Open 10am–1:30pm daily, (also ( Mon & Sat (Puerto Banús).
has scores of English bars run 4–7pm Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct, 5–9pm ∑ marbella.es
by expatriates, the atmosphere is Jul & Aug, 4–6pm Nov–Mar).
now decidedly less downmarket, P Stupa Marbella is one of Europe’s most
especially at Carihuela beach, Calle Muérdago s/n, El Retamar. Tel exclusive holiday resorts.
towards the adjoining resort 606 27 53 75. Open 10am–2pm, 3:30– Royalty, film stars and other
of Benalmádena. 7pm Tue–Sat; 10am–7:30pm Sun. & members of the jet set spend
Yachts and motorboats moored in the exclusive marina of Marbella

Life in the Sun

The idealized image of the Costa del
Sol before tourism is of idyllic fishing
villages where life was always at an
easy pace. It is true to say that local
economies have turned away from
fishing and agriculture, and that the
natural beauty of this coast has been
marred by development. Any
measured view, however, should
consider the situation described by
Laurie Lee, the writer who in 1936
wrote of “… salt-fish villages, thin-
ribbed, sea-hating, cursing their place
in the sun”. Today, few Andalusians
19th-century lithograph of the harbour at Málaga curse their new-found prosperity.
their summers here, in smart Iglesia, the town square.

villas or at one of Marbella’s Most of the smart holiday
luxury hotels. In winter, the developments are located on
major attraction is the golf the town’s fringes, set amid a
(see pp36–7). number of golf courses.
As well as modern develop-
ments, Marbella boasts a well- E Museo del Grabado
preserved, charming Old Town. Contemporáneo
A number of streets lead from C/Hospital Bazan s/n. Tel 952 76 57 41.
the main road, Avenida Ramón Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. &
y Cajal, to Plaza de los Naranjos,
the main square, surrounded by
orange trees (hence its name). , Estepona
The remains of the town’s
Málaga. Road map C4. * 46,000. @
Arab walls loom over adjacent n Plaza de las Flores, s/n (952 80 20
Calle Carmen, which leads to 02). ( Wed & Sun. ∑ estepona.es
the 17th-century Iglesia de The leafy Plaza de las Flores hidden in
Nuestra Señora de la Encarna- This fishing village, situated Estepona’s backstreets
ción. Nearby is the Museo del midway between Marbella
Grabado Contemporaneo and Gibraltar, has been altered, the town’s busy main tourist
(Museum of Contemporary but not totally overwhelmed, area. Behind, however, there
Engravings), which contains by tourist developments. are endearing pockets of
works by Miró and Picasso. It is not particularly attractive all that is quintessentially
On the other side of Avenida at first sight, with big hotels Spanish – orange trees
Ramón y Cajal is the Paseo and apartment blocks fronting lining the streets, and the
de la Alameda, a park with lovely Plaza Arce and
benches decorated with Plaza de las Flores,
colourful ceramics. From here, peaceful squares where
the road to the seafront, old men sit reading
Avenida del Mar, is lined newspapers while around
with sculptures made from them children kick
designs by Salvador Dalí. footballs about. There
Heading west, Avenida are also a few good,
Ramón y Cajal becomes the A7/ relatively inexpensive,
N340. The first stretch is known fish restaurants and tapas
as the “Golden Mile” because of bars. The beach is pleasant
its real-estate value. At the other enough and evenings
end of the Golden Mile is Puerto in the town tend to be
Banús, the most exclusive quiet, which makes the
marina in Spain. resort popular for families
Beyond Puerto Banús is San with young children.
Pedro de Alcántara, really a Not far away from
separate town but officially Estepona, however, is
part of Marbella. It is quiet, a popular nudist beach
with a sleepy atmosphere, calledthe Costa Natura
especially in the Plaza de la Relaxing in peaceful San Pedro de Alcántara (see pp36–7).
www.ebook3000.com
GRANADA
AND ALMERÍA
Eastern Andalusia is dominated by the Sierra Nevada,
Iberia’s highest range and one of Spain’s premier winter sports
venues. At its foot is Granada, once a Moorish kingdom, with a royal palace, the
Alhambra, straight out of One Thousand and One Nights. Ruined fortresses, relics
of a warring past, dominate the towns of Granada province. In Almería’s arid
interior, film directors have put to use atmospheric landscapes reminiscent of
Arabia or the Wild West.
At the point where the mountains of the villas and holiday apartment blocks are
Sierra Nevada meet the plain, 670 m also much in evidence here.
(2,200 ft) above sea level, nestles the East of Granada, the landscape becomes
ancient city of Granada, founded by the more arid. Around the town of Guadix,
Iberians. For 250 years it was the capital of a founded in Phoenician and Roman times,
Moorish kingdom whose borders enclosed thousands of people live in cave-houses.
both Almería and Málaga provinces. On a A statue of an Iberian goddess from pre-
ridge overlooking the city rises the royal Roman times was found at Baza, and at
citadel of the Alhambra, a complex of Los Millares, near Almería, there are traces
spacious palaces and water gardens. of a 4,000-year-old settlement.
The mountainous terrain of Granada Almería, a flourishing port in the
province is starkly impressive. Amid the Moorish era, has been revitalized by
ravines, crags and terraced fields of Las a new form of agriculture. Plastic
Alpujarras on the southern flank of the greenhouses now cover hectares of
Sierra Nevada, the villages seem to cling its surrounding province, producing
to the sheer slopes. fruit and vegetables all year round.
Along the coastal strip of Granada Along the sparsely populated coast of
province, avocados and custard apples Cabo de Gata, little-visited villages and
flourish in the subtropical climate. Hotels, bays doze in year-round sunshine.
The Renaissance castle of La Calahorra at the foot of the Sierra Nevada
Street view in Alpujarras de la Sierra, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background
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Exploring Granada and Almería

Granada and the Alhambra are the obvious highlights
of this region, but are only a part of its appeal.
Improved roads make it easy to reach most places
within a few hours, and from Granada it is possible to
explore the Sierra Nevada, plunge into the clear waters
of the Costa Tropical, or wander through beautiful,
spectacularly situated old towns, such as Montefrío
and Alhama de Granada. From Almería it is a short
hop to the Arizona-like country around Tabernas,
where spaghetti westerns were made, or to the
The Alhambra, with the snow-covered Sierra Nevada
secluded beaches of the Parque Natural de Cabo de mountain range in the background
Gata. Each town and whitewashed village that lies in
between has its own charm.
Jaén
Guadahortuna Villanueva
de las Torres
es
Córdoba
Fard
Benalúa
de las Villas Moreda Huélago
Iznalloz
Algarinejo Diezma
MONTEFRÍO
GUADIX
GR A NA D A
Embalse de Pinos-
Iznájar Huétor Puente Peligros
Tájar G enil
GRANADA LA CALAHORRA
Sevilla
LOJA SANTA FÉ
Riofrio
La Zubia Puerto de la Ragua
Mulhacén
3482m ADA
Pico Veleta NEV
Padul 3398m
A
ALHAMA RR
DE GRANADA SIE
Dúrcal Trevélez Válor
Embalse de los
Bermejales POQUEIRA VALLEY RA S
U JAR Cádiar
ALP
S
Sierr LANJARÓN LA
ad Órgiva
e Alm
ija
ra
Vélez de
Málaga Benaudalla
Albuñol
SALOBREÑA
0 kilometres 20 Motril
La Rábita Adra
0 miles 10
ALMUÑÉCAR C o
sta
Tropical
Sights at a Glance
1 Montefrío w La Calahorra a Níjar Key
2 Loja e Guadix s Sorbas Motorway
3 Alhama de Granada r Baza d Mojácar Major road
4 Santa Fé t Vélez Blanco
Tour Minor road
5 Granada pp194–202 y Tabernas
Scenic route
6 Almuñécar u Roquetas de Mar 9 Las Alpujarras
Major railway
7 Salobreña i Almería pp206–7
8 Lanjarón o Parque Natural de Minor railway
0 Poqueira Valley Cabo de Gata Provincial border
q Sierra Nevada p San José Summit

GRANADA AND ALMERÍA 191
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Sagra
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Huéscar
Castillejar Galera
VÉLEZ
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Avenida de Andalucía, the
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main street in Lanjarón

rda
Vélez Rubio
Gua
Embalse
de Negratin
Cúllar
Benamaurel Chirivel
Zújar Lorca
BAZA Oria Santa María

de Nieva
Caniles Pulpí
Albox
Huércal-Overa
Sierra Almanzora
de Baza Serón Purchena
Macael Cuevas del
Almanzora
A L M E R Í A Vera
Tetica de Bacares
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ROQUETAS e
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Cos
Getting Around
The A92 runs east to Guadix and then turns
south to Almería. The A92N continues east
from Guadix towards Lorca. The N340
follows the coast via Almería and the Costa
Tropical. The N323 links the coast with
Granada and the A348 connects the villages
of the Alpujarras. There are three trains a day
between Granada and Almería, but no
coastal rail service. Frequent buses run from
Spaghetti-western-style landscape near Tabernas both cities to towns on main routes.
www.ebook3000.com
Whitewashed houses on the edge of the gorge at Alhama de Granada, surrounded by olive groves
1 Montefrío some beautiful fountains. East church also has a Renaissance

of the town, the fast-flowing bell tower designed by Diego de
Granada. Road map D3. * 7,000. @
n Plaza de España 1 (958 33 60 04). Río Genil cuts through Los Siloé. Nearby is the 16th-century
( Mon. Infiernos gorge. Sample local Hospital de la Reina, now an
trout in Riofrío, to the west. exhibition centre for local artists
Montefrío is the archetypal housing a fine artesonado ceiling.
Andalusian town, which,
approached by road from the 3 Alhama de P Hotel Balneario
south, offers wonderful views of Granada Calle Balneario. Tel 958 35 00 11.
tiled rooftops and whitewashed Granada. Road map D3. * 6,000. @ Open Mar–Nov.
houses running up to a steep n Montes Jovellar 10 (674 26 30 52). P Hospital de la Reina
crag. The village is surmounted ( Fri. ∑ turismodealhama.com Calle Vendederas s/n. Tel 674 26 30 52
by remains of Moorish (tourist office). Open 9am–3pm Mon–
fortifications and the Alhama is a charming, small Fri. Contact Tourist Office to visit (open
16th-century Gothic town balanced above a 8am–3pm Mon–Fri) and for tours of
Iglesia de la Villa, which gorge. It was known as Al other local sights.
is attributed to Diego de hamma (hot springs) to
Siloé. Located in the the Arabs. Their baths
4 Santa Fé
centre of town stands can still be seen in
the Iglesia de la Hotel Balneario on Granada. Road map D3. * 12,500.
Encarnación, in Neo- the edge of the @ n Arco de Sevilla, Calle Isabel la
Classical design; the town. Alhama’s fall Católica 7 (958 51 31 10). ( Thu.
architect Ventura to the Christians in
Rodríguez (1717–85) 1482 led to the final The army of the Catholic
is credited with its humiliation of the Monarchs camped here as it lay
design. Montefrío is Nasrid kingdom siege to Granada (see p52). The
also famed for the at Granada in 1492 camp burned down, it is said,
high quality of its (see p52). after a maid placed a candle too
pork products. Belfry of Templo de San The 16th-century close to a curtain in Isabel’s tent.
Gabriel at Loja Iglesia de Carmen Fernando ordered a model
has a number of very town to be built. Its name, “holy
2 Loja fine paintings inside its dome, faith”, was chosen by the
which had to be restored after devout Isabel. In 1492 the
Granada. Road map D3. * 21,000.
£ @ n Edificio Espacio Joven damage incurred during the Moors made a formal
Calle Comedias 2 (958 32 39 49). Spanish Civil War (see surrender at Santa Fé
( Mon. ∑ lojaturismo.com pp58–9). Narrow, imma- and here, in the same
culately white-washed year, the two
A ruined Moorish fort rises streets lead to the Iglesia monarchs backed
above the crooked streets of the de la Encarnación, founded by Columbus’s voyage of
old town of Loja, which was the Catholic Monarchs (see exploration (see p131). An
built at a strategic point on the pp52–3) in the 16th century. earthquake destroyed
Río Genil. The Renaissance Some of the vestments some of the town in 1806.
Templo de San Gabriel (1566) worn by the present-day A Moor’s severed head,
has a striking façade, designed priests are said to have carved in stone,
by Diego de Siloé. Known as been embroidered by Spire-tip of the decorates the spire of
“the city of water”, Loja also has Queen Isabel herself. The church, Santa Fé the parish church.
5 Granada
See pp194–202.
6 Almuñécar
Granada. Road map D3. * 22,000.
@ n Avenida Europa s/n (958 63 11
25). ( Fri. ∑ almunecar.info
Almuñécar lies on southern

Spain’s most spectacular coast,
the Costa Tropical (see p37),
where mountains rise to over
2,000 m (6,560 ft) from the
shores of the Mediterranean Castillo de San Miguel, overlooking the village of Almuñécar
Sea. The Phoenicians founded
the first settlement, called Sexi, in the Museo Arqueológico waving sugar cane. Narrow
at Almuñécar, and the Romans Cueva de Siete Palacìos. streets wend their way up a hill
built an aqueduct here. When first fortified by the Phoenicians.
the English writer Laurie Lee + Castillo de San Miguel The hill later became the site of
made his long trek across Tel 650 02 75 84. Open Tue–Sun. & the restored Castillo Arabe,
Spain in 1936, he described O Parque Ornitológico which gives fine views of the
Almuñécar as “a tumbling little Plaza de Abderraman s/n. Tel 958 88 Sierra Nevada (see p203).
village fronted by a strip of 27 35. Open daily. & Modern developments, bars
grey sand, which some hoped E Museo Arqueológico Cueva
and restaurants line part of this
would be an attraction for de Siete Palacìos
resort’s lengthy beach.
tourists”. On returning in the Casco Antiguo. Tel 607 86 54 66.
1950s, he found a village still + Castillo Arabe
Open Tue–Sun. &
coming to terms with the Falda del Castillo, Calle Andrés Segovia.
Spanish Civil War (see pp58–9), Tel 958 61 27 33. Open daily. & 8
which he recounts in his 7 Salobreña
novel A Rose for Winter.
Almuñécar is now a holiday Granada. Road map E3. * 10,500. 8 Lanjarón
@ n Plaza de Goya s/n
resort. Above the old town is Granada. Road map E3. * 24,000. @
(958 61 03 14). ( Tue & Fri.
the Castillo de San Miguel. In ∑ ayto-salobrena.org n Avda de la Alpujarra s/n (958 77 04
its shadow are botanic gardens, 62). ( Tue & Fri. ∑ lanjanet.com
the Parque Ornitológico and a From across the coastal plain,
Roman fish-salting factory. Salobreña looks like a white Scores of snow-fed springs
Phoenician artifacts are displayed liner sailing above a sea of bubble from the slopes below
the Sierra Nevada, and Lanjarón,
on the threshold of Las Alpujarras
(see pp204–5), has a long history
as a spa. From June to October
visitors flock to the town to take
the waters and, under medical
supervision, enjoy various water
treatments for arthritis, obesity,
nervous tension and other
ailments. Lanjarón bottled water
is sold all over Spain.
The town occupies a lovely
site, but it can seem melancholic.
The exception to this is during
the early hours of the festival of
San Juan (see p39) when a water
battle takes place. Anybody who
dares venture into the streets
gets liberally doused.
P Balneario
Balneario de Lanjarón. Tel 958 77
04 54. Open daily. Closed mid-
Dec–mid-Jan. & 7
The village of Salobreña viewed across fields of sugar cane ∑ hotelbalneariolanjaron.com
www.ebook3000.com
5 Granada
The guitarist Andres Segovia (1893–1987) described Granada
as a “place of dreams, where the Lord put the seed of music in
my soul”. It was ruled by the Nasrid dynasty (see pp52–3) from
1238 until 1492 when it fell to the Catholic Monarchs. Before
the Moors were expelled, artisans, merchants, scholars and
scientists all contributed to the city’s reputation as a centre
for culture. Under Christian rule the city became a focus for
the Renaissance. After a period of decline in the 19th century,
Granada has become the subject of renewed interest and
efforts are being made to restore parts of it to their past glory.
by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén

encloses the mausoleums and
high altar. The retablo by the Entrance to the Moorish mihrab in the
sculptor Felipe de Vigarney has Palacio de la Madraza
reliefs depicting the fall of
Granada (see pp52–3). Carrara P Corral del Carbón
marble figures of Fernando and Calle Mariana Pineda s/n. Tel 958 22 59
Isabel repose next to those of 90. Open 10:30am–1:30pm, 5–8pm
their daughter Juana la Loca Mon–Fri; 10:30am–2pm Sat. 7
(the Mad) and her husband This galleried courtyard is a
Felipe el Hermoso (the unique relic of the Moorish era.
Handsome), both by the Originally it was a storehouse
sculptor Bartolomé Ordóñez. and inn for merchants who
Steps lead down to the crypt mainly dealt in coal. In Christian
where their corpses are stored times it was a venue for
in lead coffins. In the sacristy theatrical performances. Today
Façade of Granada cathedral there are more statues of the it houses government offices.
two monarchs and many art
P Alhambra and Generalife treasures, including paintings by P Casa de los Tiros
See pp198–202. Van der Weyden and Botticelli. Calle Pavaneras 19. Tel 600 14 31 75.
Glass cases house Isabel’s crown Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm
R Catedral and Fernando’s sword. Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public
C/Gran Via 5. Tel 958 22 29 59. hols; mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm
On the orders of the Catholic P Palacio de la Madraza Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun &
Monarchs, work on the Calle Oficios 14. Tel 958 99 63 50. public hols.
cathedral began in 1523 to Open daily. 7 This fortress-like palace was
Enrique de Egas’s Gothic-style Originally an Arab university, built in Renaissance style in the
plans. It continued under the this building later became the 16th century. It was once the
Renaissance maestro Diego de city hall. The façade dates from property of a family who were
Siloé, who also designed the the 18th century. Inside is a awarded the Generalife after
façade. Corinthian pillars support Moorish hall with a finely the fall of Granada (see pp52–3);
his circular Capilla Mayor. Under decorated mihrab. Today the among their possessions was a
its dome, windows of 16th- Palacio is part of the University sword belonging to Boabdil (see
century glass depict Juan del of Granada. p53). The sword is represented
Campo’s The Passion. The west
front was designed by local
Baroque artist Alonso Cano. His
grave and many of his works are
housed in the cathedral. By the
entrance arch are wooden
statues of the Catholic Monarchs
carved by Pedro de Mena in 1677.
R Capilla Real
C/Oficios 3. Tel 958 22 92 39.
The Royal Chapel was built for
the Catholic Monarchs between
1505 and 1507 by Enrique de
Egas. A magnificent reja (grille) Reja by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén enclosing the altar of the Capilla Real
GRANADA 195
on the façade. The building

owes its name to the muskets
in its battlements, tiros being
the Spanish word for shot.
P Mirador de San Nicolás

From this square visitors can
enjoy splendid sunset views.
Tiled rooftops drop away to
the Darro river, on the far side
of which stands the Alhambra;
the Sierra Nevada provides a
suitably dramatic backdrop.
Cupola in the sanctuary of the Monasterio de la Cartuja
P El Bañuelo
Carrera del Darro 31. Tel 958 02 78 00. portal, houses this museum Alhambra, which has amazing
Open 10am–2pm Tue–Sat. Closed of Iberian, Phoenician and blue and gold designs.
public hols. Roman antiquities.
These brick-vaulted Arab baths, R Monasterio de la Cartuja
located near the Darro river, E Palacio Carlos V Tel 958 16 19 32. Open 10am–1pm,
were built in the 11th century. Alhambra. Tel 958 56 35 08. 4–8pm daily.&
Roman, Visigothic and Arab Open Tue–Sun (opening hours vary A Christian warrior, El Gran
capitals were all incorporated month by month so call ahead). Capitán, donated the land
into the baths’ columns. This palace in the Alhambra on which this monastery was
houses the Museo Hispano- built in 1516. A cupola by
E Museo Arqueológico Musulmán and the Museo de Antonio Palomino tops the
Carrera del Darro 43. Tel 958 57 52 02 Bellas Artes. The highlight of the sanctuary. The Churrigue-
(tourist office). Closed for renovations. quite thrilling Muslim art resque sacristy (see p29) is by
The Renaissance Casa de collection is a most exquisite mason Luis de Arévalo and
Castril, with a Plateresque 15th-century vase from the sculptor Luis Cabello.
Sights at a Glance 4 Alhambra 8 Palacio de la Madraza

1 Mirador de San Nicolás 5 Palacio Carlos V 9 Corral del Carbón
2 Museo Arqueológico 6 Catedral 0 Casa de los Tiros
3 El Bañuelo 7 Capilla Real
Monasterio de
la Cartuja
0 metres 250
Train station PL. DE LA 0 yards 250

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Street-by-Street: The Albaicín

This corner of Granada, clinging to the hillside opposite the
Alhambra, is where one feels closest to the city’s Moorish
ancestry. A fortress was first built here in the 13th century and
there were once over 30 mosques, some of which can still be
traced. Along narrow, cobbled alleys stand cármenes, villas with
Moorish decoration and gardens, secluded from the world by
their high walls. In the evening, when the scent of jasmine
lingers in the air, take a walk up to the Mirador de San Nicolás.
From here the view over a maze of rooftops and the Alhambra
glowing in the sunset is magical.
Albaicín Street
Steep and sinuous, the Albaicín
streets form a virtual labyrinth.
Real Chancillería Many street names start with
Commissioned Cuesta, meaning slope.
by the Catholic
Monarchs, the
Royal Chancery
dates from 1530.
Its patio is attri-
buted to de Siloé.
AN
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CUES
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Casa de los Pisas displays

works of art belonging to
the Knights Hospitallers,
founded by Juan de Dios
in the 16th century.
Key
Suggested route . Iglesia de Santa Ana
At the end of the Plaza Santa Ana stands
0 metres 50
this 16th-century brick church in Mudéjar
style. It has an elegant Plateresque portal
0 yards 50 and, inside, a coffered ceiling.
GRANADA 197
Carrera del Darro

The road along the Río Darro leads
past fine façades and crumbling
bridges. At the top end, several
Granada. Road map D3. *
bars offer views of the Alhambra.
250,000. n Santa Ana 4 (958 57
52 02); C/Virgen Blanca 9 (902 43
23 43). ( Sat & Sun. _ Día de
la Cruz (3 May), Corpus Christi
(May/Jun). ∑ granadatur.com
Transport
k 12 km (7 miles) SE of city. £
. Museo Arqueológico Avenida de Andalucia s/n (902 24
The ornate façade of this museum 02 02). @ Carretera de Jaen s/n
has Plateresque carvings, including (958 18 54 80).
reliefs of mythological figures.
To Mirador
de San
Nicolás
CARRETERA
S
CALLE GLORIA
YE
RE
OS
CALLE
L
DE
CON
P L A PCIÓN
DEL
CE
ZA
ZAFRA
SANTÍSIMO
CO
NC
ERO
CARN
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BA
IÓN
ÑU
To Sacromonte
ELO
DARRO
CARRERA DEL
RÍO DARRIO
Convento de Santa
Catalina de Zafra was
founded in 1521.
Sacromonte
Granada’s gypsies (Roma) formerly lived in the caves honey-
combing this hillside. Travellers such as Washington Irving
(see p57) would go there to enjoy spontaneous outbursts of
flamenco. Today, virtually all Roma have moved away, but
touristy flamenco shows of variable
quality are still performed
here in the evenings (see
p244). A Benedictine
monastery, the Abadía
del Sacro-monte, sits at
the very top of the hill.
. El Bañuelo
Inside, the ashes of San
Star-shaped openings in the vaults
Cecilio, Granada’s patron
let light into these well-preserved
saint, are stored.
Moorish baths, which were built in Gypsies dancing flamenco, 19th century
the 11th century.
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Granada: Alhambra
A magical use of space, light, water and decoration
characterizes this most sensual piece of architecture.
It was built under Ismail I, Yusuf I and Muhammad V,
caliphs when the Nasrid dynasty (see p52) ruled
Granada. Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they constructed their idea of paradise on Earth.
Modest materials were used (tiles, plaster and timber),
. Salón de Embajadores
but they were superbly worked. Although the The ceiling of this sumptuous throne room,
Alhambra suffered from decay and pillage, including built between 1334 and 1354, represents
an attempt by Napoleon’s troops to blow it up, it has the seven heavens of the Muslim cosmos.
undergone extensive restoration and its delicate
craftsmanship still dazzles the eye.
. Patio de Arrayanes
This pool, set amid myrtle
hedges and graceful
arcades, reflects light into
the surrounding halls.
KEY
1 Patio de Machuca
2 Sala de la Barca
3 Washington Irving’s Entrance
apartments
4 Jardín de Lindaraja
5 Baños Reales
6 The Sala de las Dos Hermanas,
with its honeycomb dome, is
regarded as the ultimate example of
Spanish Islamic architecture. Patio del Mexuar
This council chamber,
7 Puerta de la Rawda completed in 1365, was
8 The Palacio Carlos V (see p54), a where the reigning sultan
fine Renaissance building, was added listened to the petitions of
to the Alhambra in 1526. his subjects and held
meetings with his ministers.
GRANADA 199
Palacio del Partal

A tower and its
pavilion, with a five-
arched portico, are
Calle Real de la Alhambra, s/n,
all that remain of the
18009 Granada. Tel 958 02 79 71.
Palacio del Partal,
Book by phone: 958 92 60 31 or
the Alhambra’s
online. Open 8:30am–8pm daily
oldest palace.
(6pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar).
Night visits: summer:
10–11:30pm Thu–Sat; winter:
8–9:30pm Fri & Sat. & 8 0
∑ alhambra-patronato.es
Booking in advance is essential
in high season.
Transport
@ 2, C3, C4.
Sala de los Reyes

This great banqueting hall was used to hold
extravagant parties and feasts. Beautiful ceiling
paintings on leather, from the 14th century,
depict tales of hunting and chivalry.
. Sala de los
Abencerrajes
This hall takes its name from
a noble family, who were
rivals of Boabdil (see pp52–3).
According to legend, he had
them massacred while they
attended a banquet here.
The pattern of the stalactited
ceiling was inspired by
Pythagoras’ theorem.
Plan of the Alhambra To the

Key to Floorplan Generalife
Casas Reales
(shown above)
Palacio Carlos V Ticket
Alcazaba office
. Patio de los Leones Portal and Medina
Built by Muhammad V, this
Other buildings
patio is lined with arcades The Alhambra complex includes the Casas
supported by 124 slender Reales, the 13th-century Alcazaba, the
marble columns. At its Palacio Carlos V (see p195) and the Generalife
centre a fountain rests on (see p202), located just off the map.
12 marble lions.
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Granada: Generalife
Located northeast of the Alhambra, the Generalife was the
country estate of the Nasrid kings. Here, they could escape
the intrigues of the palace and enjoy tranquillity high above
the city, a little closer to heaven. The name Generalife, or
Yannat al Arif, has various interpretations, perhaps the most
pleasing being “the garden of lofty paradise”. The gardens,
begun in the 13th century, have been modified over the years.
They originally contained orchards and pastures for animals.
The Generalife provides a magical setting for Granada’s yearly
International Music and Dance Festival (see p39). Patio de la Acequia
This enclosed oriental garden is
built round a long central pool.
Sala Regia Rows of water jets make graceful
arches above it.
Jardines Altos
(Upper Gardens)
The Escalera del

Agua is a staircase
with water flowing
gently down it.
The Patio de los Cipreses,

Entrance otherwise known as the Patio de
la Sultana, was the secret meeting
place for Soraya, wife of the Sultan
The Patio de Polo Abu I-Hasan, and her lover, the
was the courtyard chief of the Abencerrajes.
where palace
visitors, arriving on
horseback, would Patio del Generalife
leave their horses. Leading up from the Alhambra to
the Generalife are the Jardines
Bajos (lower gardens). Above them,
just before the main compound, is
the Patio del Generalife.
Picturesque town of Picena in Las Alpujarras
The majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada towering, in places, over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) above sea level
9 Las Alpujarras from the mountains above. The Sierra Nevada was declared
See pp204–5.
Dilapidated mills and old a national park in 1999 and
threshing floors are other signs access to it restricted. The park
of a vanishing way of life. authorities run guided minibus
0 Poqueira Valley excursions to the higher slopes
Barranco de Poqueira, Granada.
from its checkpoints on the two
Road map E3. n Plaza de la Libertad q Sierra Nevada sides of the Sierra Nevada: Hoya
7, Pampaneira (958 76 31 27). Granada. Road map E3. @ from
de la Mora (above the ski station
Granada. n Parque Nacional Sierra on the Granada side) and Hoya
Many visitors to the Alpujarras Nevada Centro de Visitantes “El del Portillo (above Capileira in
get no further than this deep, Dornajo”, Carretera de Sierra Nevada the Alpujarras). The Sierra
steep-sided valley above Km 23, Güéjar Sierra (958 34 06 25). Nevada observatory is located
Orgiva, and it is certainly ∑ sierranevadaskiguide.com on the northern slopes at an
the best place to head for elevation of 2800 m (9,186 ft).
on a short visit. It contains Fourteen peaks, more than
three pretty, well-kept 3,000 m (9,800 ft) high, crown
villages climbing the slope. the heights of the Sierra w La Calahorra
In ascending order, they are: Nevada. The snow lingers until
Granada. Road map E3. @ Guadix.
Pampaneira, Bubion and July and begins falling again in n Town Hall, Plaza Ayuntamiento 1
Capileira. All are perfect late autumn. Europe’s highest (958 67 71 32). Open 10am–1pm,
examples of the singular road (closed to traffic) runs past 4–6pm Wed.
architectural style of the a ski resort at 2,100 m (6,890 ft),
Alpujarras, which has its closest and skirts the two highest Immensely thick walls encircle
relation in the Atlas Mountains peaks, Pico Veleta at 3,398 m this castle, perched on a hillock
of Morocco. The whitewashed (11,145 ft) and Mulhacén at above the village. Rodrigo de
houses of each village huddle 3,482 m (11,420 ft). The altitude Mendoza, son of Cardinal
together seemingly randomly and closeness to the Mediter- Mendoza, ordered La Calahorra
(“a confused agglomeration of ranean of this mountain range to be built for his bride
boxes” as the writer Gerald account for its array of fauna between 1509 and 1512, using
Brenan described them), with and flora. It is a habitat for architects and craftsmen from
flat grey gravel roofs sprouting golden eagles, rare butterflies Italy. Inside is a Renaissance
a variety of eccentrically tall and over 60 species of flowers courtyard with a staircase and
chimneys. The streets between unique to the area. Carrara marble pillars.
the houses are rarely straight,
often stepped and tapering,
and they sometimes disappear
into short tunnels.
The countryside between the
villages makes excellent
walking or horse-riding
country. The slopes are still
divided by dry-stone walls into
terraced fields that are fed by
an ingenious irrigation system
that distributes the melt water The castle of La Calahorra above the village of the same name
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1796 by Gaspar Cayón and

Vicente de Acero. Near the
9th-century Alcazaba, the town’s
Mudéjar Iglesia de Santiago has
a fine coffered ceiling. Palacio de
Peñaflor, dating from the 16th
century, is now fully restored.
E Museo de Alfarería
C/San Miguel 59 (958 66 47 67). Open
10:30am–2pm, 4:30–8pm daily. &
E Centro de Interpretación
Cuevas de Guadix
Ermita Nueva s/n. (958 66 55 69).
Whitewashed cave dwellings in the troglodyte quarter of Guadix Open 10am–2pm, 4–6pm Mon–Fri
(5–7pm in summer), 10am–2pm
Sat. &
e Guadix Around 2,000 years ago Guadix
had iron, copper and silver mines.
Granada. Road map E3. * 20,100.
£ @ n Avenida de la Constitución
The town thrived under the r Baza
Moors and after the Reconquest
15–18 (958 66 28 04). Granada. Road map E2. * 20,000.
( Sat. ∑ guadix.es (see pp52–3), but declined in the @ n Calle Alhóndiga 1, under
18th century. museum (958 86 13 25). ( Wed.
The troglodyte quarter, with 2,000 Relics of San Torcuato, who
inhabited caves, is the town’s most established the first Christian Impressive evidence of ancient
remarkable sight. The Museo de bishopric in Spain, are kept in the cultures based around Baza came
Alfarería and Centro de Inter- cathedral museum. The Catedral, to light in 1971, when a large,
pretación Cuevas de Guadix begun in 1594 by Diego de Siloé, seated, female figure was found
show how they live underground. was finished between 1701 and in a necropolis. She is the Dama
9 A Tour of Las Alpujarras

Las Alpujarras lie on the southern slopes of the Sierra
Nevada. The villages in this area cling to valley sides
clothed with oak and walnut trees. Their flat-roofed
houses are distinctive and seen nowhere else in
Andalusia. Local food is rustic. A speciality is plato 4 Trevélez
alpujarreño: pork fillet, ham, sausage and blood sausage, Trevélez, in the shadow of Mulhacén,
accompanied by a pinkish wine from the Contraviesa is built in typical Alpujarran style and
is famous for its cured hams.
mountains. Local crafts include handwoven rugs (see
a
p242) and curtains with Moorish-influenced designs. Sierr
Mu lha cén
é le z
3 ,4 7 9 m
2 Poqueira Valley
Trev
1 1 ,4 1 0 f t
Three villages typical of Las
Alpujarras in this river valley
are Capileira, Bubión and
e ir a
Pampaneira (see p203).

Poqu
Juviles
Pórtugos
Pitres
Guadalfeo
Lanjarón
Granada
1 Orgiva
This is the largest town of the 3 Fuente Agria
S i e r r a d e l a
region, with a Baroque church People come here from far and
in the main street and a lively wide to drink the iron-rich,
Thursday market. naturally carbonated waters.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp219 and pp236–7
de Baza (see p47), believed to t Vélez Blanco Renaissance splendour has since
represent an Iberian goddess, and been ripped out and shipped to
estimated to be 2,400 years old. Almería. Road map F2. * 2,200. @ the Metropolitan Museum of
Vélez Rubio. n Marqués de los Vélez
Subsequently, she was removed New York. There is, however, a
s/n (950 41 95 85). ( Wed.
to the Museo Arqueológico in reconstruction of one of the
Madrid but a replica can be seen Dominating this pleasant little original patios.
in the Museo Arqueológico in village is the mighty Castillo de A blend of Gothic, Renaissance
Baza. The Renaissance Colegiata Vélez Blanco. It was built from and Mudéjar styles (see pp28–9)
de Santa María, nearby, has a 1506 to 1513 by the first Marquis can be seen in the Iglesia de
Plateresque entrance and a fine de Los Vélez, and its interior richly Santiago, located in the village’s
18th-century tower. adorned by Italian craftsmen. main street.
During the first few days of Unfortunately for the visitor its Just outside Vélez Blanco is
September a riotous fiesta takes the Cueva de los Letreros,
place (see p40). An emissary, El which contains paintings from
Cascamorras, is despatched from around 4000 BC. One image
the neighbouring town of Guadix depicts a horned man holding
to try to bring back a coveted sickles; another the Indalo, a
image of the Virgin from Baza’s figure believed to be a deity
Convento de la Merced. He is with magical powers, still used
covered in oil and chased back to as a symbol of Almería.
Guadix by youths, also covered in
oil. There, he is taunted again for + Castillo de Vélez Blanco
returning empty-handed. Tel 607 41 50 55. Open 10am–2pm,
5–8pm Wed–Sun (Oct–Mar: 4–6pm).
E Museo Arqueológico T Cueva de los Letreros
Plaza Mayor s/n. Tel 958 86 19 47. Camino de la Cueva de los Letreros.
Open 11am–2pm Tue–Sun (also The village of Vélez Blanco, overlooked by a Tel 650 80 83 90. Open Wed, Sat, Sun
6–8pm Thu–Sat). 16th-century castle & pub hols by appointment. &
6 Yegen La Calahorra
A plaque marks the
house where Gerald
Brenan, the author of
South from Granada,
lived in the 1920s.
7 Válor
da
a
va
A lc o le
Ne
Aben Humeya, leader of a rebellion by
Moriscos (see p54), was born in this
village. A commemorative battle
between Moors and Christians is staged
a
cin
each year in mid-September (see p40).

Ma
8 Puerto de la Ragua
This pass, which leads across the
mountains to Guadix, is nearly
Yátor Cherín 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high and often
Ugíjar snowbound in winter.
5 Cádiar
A fountain in the Tips for Drivers
U g íj a r centre of this town
runs with wine Tour length: 85 km (56 miles).
during the October Stopping-off points: Orgiva and
fiesta (see p40). Trevélez have bars, restaurants
and hotels. Bubión has hotels
and one good restaurant (see
s a Key
a v i e p236). Capileira has bars and
C o n t r
Tour route restaurants. Orgiva is the last
0 kilometres 10
Other roads petrol stop before Cádiar.
0 miles 05 Mountain peak
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i Almería
A colossal fortress bears witness to Almería’s golden age, looks more like a fortress than
when it was an important port for the Caliphate of Córdoba. a place of worship, with four
Known as al Mariyat (the Mirror of the Sea), the city was a towers, thick walls and small
windows. A mosque once stood on
centre for trade and textile industries, with silk, cotton and
the site. It was later converted
brocade among its chief exports. After the city fell to the to a Christian temple, but
Catholic Monarchs (see pp52–3) in 1489, it went into decline destroyed by an earthquake in
for the next 300 years. During the 19th and early 20th 1522. Work began on the
centuries, mining and a new port revived the city’s fortunes, present building in 1524 under
but this period ended abruptly with the start of the Civil War the direction of Diego de Siloé.
Juan de Orea designed the
(see pp58–9). Today a North African air still pervades the
Renaissance façade. He also
city, with its flat-roofed houses, desert-like environs and created the beautifully carved
palm trees and regular ferry services still link the city walnut choir stalls. The naves
with Morocco. and high altar are Gothic.
R Templo San Juan

C/Calle San Juan & Calle Gen Luque.
Tel 950 23 30 07. Open Apr–Sep: 7–
7:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 6–6:30pm daily.
Traces of Almería’s most impor-
tant mosque can still be seen –
one wall of the present church is
Moorish. Inside is a 12th-century
mihrab, a prayer niche with
cupola. The church, built over the
mosque, was damaged in the
Spanish Civil War and abandoned
until 1979. It is now restored.
The 10th-century Alcazaba overlooking the old town of Almería
P Plaza Vieja
+ Alcazaba coast. It is inadvisable for visitors Also known as the Plaza de la
C/Almanzor s/n. Tel 950 80 10 08. to wander around the Alcazaba Constitución, this is a 17th-
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, district alone or after dark. century arcaded square. On
25 Dec. one side is the Ayuntamiento,
Fine views over the city are R Catedral a building with a cream and
offered by this 1,000-year old Plaza de la Catedral 8. Tel 669 91 36 pink façade dating from 1899.
Moorish fortress. It has been 28. Open Mon–Sat.
restored and within its walls are From North Africa, Berber pirates P Puerta de Purchena
pleasant gardens and a Mudéjar would often raid Almería. Located at the heart of the city,
chapel. It was the largest Consequently, the cathedral the Puerta de Purchena was
fortress built by the Moors and
covered an area of more than
25,000 sq m (269,000 sq ft). The
walls extend for 430 m (1,410 ft).
Abd al Rahman III started con-
struction in AD 955, but there
were considerable additions
later. The fort with-stood two
major sieges but fell to the
Catholic Monarchs in 1489.
Their coat of arms can be seen
on the Torre del Homenaje,
which was built during the
monarchs’ reign.
In the past, a bell in the
Alcazaba was rung to advise
the farmers in the surrounding
countryside when irrigation was
allowed. Bells were also rung to
warn the citizens of Almería when
pirates had been sighted off the The pedestrianized 17th-century Plaza Vieja, surrounded by elegant arcades
once one of the main gateways VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

in the city walls. From it run a
number of shopping streets, Practical Information
including the wide Paseo de Almería. Road map F3. *
Almería. A tree-lined thorough- 170,000. n Parque Nicolás
fare, this is the focus of city life, Salmerón s/n (950 17 52 20).
with its cafés, Teatro Cervantes ( Tue, Fri & Sat. _ Semana
and nearby food market. Santa (Easter), Feria de Almería
(last week Aug).
∑ andalucia.org
O Centro Rescate de la
Fauna Sahariana Transport
C/General Segura 1. Tel 950 28 10 45. £ Plaza de la Estación (902 24
Open call ahead for an appointment. 02 02). @ Plaza de la Estación
At the rear of the Alcazaba, (950 27 37 06).
this rescue centre shelters
endangered species from the Brightly coloured entrance to a gypsy cave
Sahara, in particular different in La Chanca district defensive ramparts and a
kinds of gazelle. Having flourished necropolis that contains more
in Almería’s arid climate, some archaeological museum that than 100 tombs have since
animals have been shipped to has 900 exhibits chosen from a been uncovered.
restock African nature reserves. collection of 80,000 pieces. The community here lived
from agriculture but also had
E Museo de Almería Environs the capability to forge tools,
Carretera de Ronda 91. Tel 950 10 04 One of the most important arms and adornments from
09. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am– examples of a Copper Age copper, which was mined in
3:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & settlement in Europe, Los the nearby of Sierra de Gador.
pub hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9am– Millares, lies 17 km (10.5 miles)
7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm Sun & north of Almería. As many as T Los Millares
pub hols. & (free for EU citizens). 2,000 people occupied the site Santa Fé de Mondújar. Tel 677 90 34
Almería’s two main prehistoric from around 2700 to 1800 BC 04. Open 10am–2pm Wed–Sun.
civilizations, Los Millares and (see pp46–7). Discovered in (Groups of 12 or more call ahead.)
El Algar, are explained in this 1891, remains of houses, ∑ andalucia.org
Sights at a Glance
1 Alcazaba NO
ANTO
NIO V
ICO
I
DE S A N
M
Los Millares
2 Templo San Juan
CA
Ó BAL
Mirador de ORO
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A
San Cristóbal CR ER
3 Catedral
LUG
IS O
T
MANUEL
PÉREZ
BEL
4 Plaza Vieja GARCÍA

Puerta
Iglesia de de Purchena
ÍN
5 Puerta de Santiago
AR
Centro Rescate de
M
Purchena PLAZADE
TO
la Fauna Sahariana
S
LAS FLORES
E NL A S
SI
DA
PO
TI
JO
ES
VE
C UL
LA R
TELA
L
PA R Alcazaba Plaza NO CAS

QU S
HÉR
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A Vieja DE SAN
MÓ
N C Ayuntamiento PEDRO San Pedro
STIA
RE
LLA PLAZA DE RO JU
AL
EN C U PÉRE
E N TR Z JOAQUÍN AG EZ
M IL
LO P E DE V EGA
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MOL RO
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CEPE
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Barrio O D EFO PA D R PLAZA DEL
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la Chanca SA NT R E UE ECUADOR
CH A PLAZA
ÓN
A N SO
T GONZÁLEZ
SA
N AN A PLAZA
I N FA N TA EGEA
N
Bus Station
SA IN GRANERO PLAZA DE
ED
JU
LA CATEDRAL 900m (980 yards)

ALM E. PÉR
AN
E Z Train Station
Gobierno 900m (980 yards)
Templo
ES
Militar Catedral PLAZA

REINA
TR
PLAZA San Juan MASNOU

PLAZA
CIPRÉS
E LL
CHAFARINAS
PA S
BENDICHO
A
A LB O R Á
Basílica de Nuestra
EO
C . H O S P I TA L
Señora del Mar
DE A
Teatro
N
MÁLAGA
LIC E O
Cervantes
REA
TRO
LM
PA R
PO S
QUE
GER
CAS
DE
ERÍA
ONA
CAM
NICO
AND LÁS
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DE MER Gobierno
TÍ N EZ
COS ÓN
TA
ARE
Civil
PLAZA
MAR
Á LV
DE EMILIO
LÓ P PÉREZ
E Z F
Med AL CÓ
N
ite
rra Palacio de
ne Justicia
an AN
DÉ
Se N
0 metres 250 a DE
CO Mojácar Cabo
ST de Gata
A
0 yards 250

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Spaghetti Westerns
Two Wild West towns lie off the N340 highway
west of Tabernas. Here, visitors can re-enact classic
film scenes or watch stunt men performing bank
hold-ups and saloon brawls. The Poblados del
Oeste were built during the 1960s and early 1970s
when low costs and eternal sunshine made
Almería the ideal location for spaghetti westerns.
Sergio Leone, director of The Good, the Bad and the
Ugly, built a ranch here and film-sets sprang up in
the desert. Local gypsies played Indians and
Mexicans. The deserts and Arizona-style badlands
are still used occasionally for television
commercials and series, and by film directors
Still from For a Few Dollars More by Sergio Leone such as Steven Spielberg.
y Tabernas o Parque Natural from Africa. Among the 170

de Cabo de Gata or so bird species recorded in
Almería. Road map F3. * 3,000. @
n on main road: N340, km 464
the park there are flamingoes,
Almería. Road map F3. @ to San avocets, Dupont’s larks and
(950 52 50 30). ( Wed. José. n Centro de Visitantes de las griffon vultures. Attempts
A Moorish hilltop fortress Amoladeras, Carretera Cabo de Gata to reintroduce the monk seal,
km 6 (950 16 04 35). Park Open daily. which died out in the 1970s,
presides over the town of
Tabernas and the surrounding however, have now ceased.
dusty, cactus-dotted landscape Towering cliffs of volcanic rock, At the northern end of the park,
of eroded hills and dried-out sand dunes, salt flats, secluded where there is a cormorants’
riverbeds. The harsh, rugged coves and a few fishing fishing area, is Punta de los
scenery has figured in many settlements can be found Muertos, (“dead man’s point”);
so-called spaghetti westerns. in the 290 sq km (112 sq m) this takes its name from the
Not far from Tabernas is a Parque Natural de Cabo de bodies of shipwrecked sailors
solar energy research centre, Gata. The end of the cape, that are said to have washed
where hundreds of heliostats near the Arrecife de las Sirenas ashore there.
follow the course of southern (Sirens’ Reef ), is marked by a
Andalusia’s powerful sunshine. lighthouse. The park includes a
stretch of sea-bed about 2 km p San José
(1.2 miles) wide, which allows Almería. Road map F3. * 1,000. @
u Roquetas de Mar protection of the marine flora n Avenida de San José 27 (950 38 02
Almería. Road map F3. * 34,000.
and fauna; the clear waters 99). ( Sun (Easter & summer).
n Avenida Mediterraneo 2 (950 33 attract divers and snorkellers.
32 03). The area of dunes and Located on a fine, sandy bay,
saltpans between the cape San José is a small but fast-
Much of Almería’s southern and the Playa de San Miguel growing sea resort within the
coastal plain is given over to is a habitat for thorny jujube Parque Natural de Cabo de
massive plastic greenhouses in trees. Thousands of migrating Gata. Rising behind it is the arid
which vegetables and flowers birds stop here en route to and Sierra de Cabo de Gata, a range
are raised for export. Interrupting
the greenhouses is the resort of
Roquetas de Mar, which has a
17th-century castle and a squat
lighthouse, both used for
exhibitions. Roquetas also has
an aquarium with tropical and
Mediterranean species of fish.
O Aquarium
Avda Reino de España.
Tel 950 16 00 36. Open 10am–6pm
Wed–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. &
∑ aquariumroquetas.com
i Almería
See pp206–7. Lighthouse overlooking the cliffs of the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata
d Mojácar
n Calle Glorieta 1 (950 61 50 25).
( Wed & Sun.
From a distance, the village of

Mojácar shimmers like the
mirage of a Moorish citadel, its
white houses cascading over a
lofty ridge near to the sea. The
village was taken by the
Christians in 1488 and the
The harbour at the traditional fishing village of La Isleta Moors were later expelled. In
the years after the Spanish Civil
of bleak grandeur. Nearby are village worth a look: the 16th- War (see pp58–9) the village fell
fine beaches, including Playa de century Iglesia de Santa María into ruin, as much of its
los Genoveses (see p37). Along and a 17th-century mansion population emigrated. In the
the coast are Rodalquilar, said to have once been a 1960s Mojácar was discovered
a town once important for summer retreat for the Duke by tourists, giving rise to a new
gold-mining, and La Isleta, of Alba. era of prosperity. The old
a fishing hamlet. Another point of interest for gateway in the walls is still here,
visitors is the traditional, rustic but otherwise the village has
earthenware turned out and been completely rebuilt.
a Níjar sold by Sorbas’ local potters.
Located near to Sorbas is the
n Fundición s/n, Rodalquilar (950 38 peculiar Yesos de Sorbas nature
98 20). ( Wed. reserve. This is an unusual
region of karst, where water
Set amid a lush oasis of citrus action has carved out hundreds
trees on the edge of the Sierra of subterranean galleries and
Alhamilla, Níjar’s fame stems chambers in the limestone and
from the colourful pottery and gypsum strata. Speleologists
the jarapas, handwoven rugs are allowed to explore the
and blankets, that are made caves, but only if they are
here. The town’s historic quarter granted permission by
is typical of Andalusia, with Andalusia’s environmental
narrow streets and wrought- department. On the surface, the
iron balconies. green, fertile valley of the Río de
The Iglesia de Nuestra Aguas cuts through dry, eroded
Señora de la Anunciación, hills. Local wildlife in this area
dating from the 16th century, includes tortoises and Pensión façade in the picturesque
has a coffered Mudéjar ceiling, peregrine falcons. village of Mojácar
delicately inlaid. The barren
plain between Níjar and the
sea has begun to blossom
Blood Wedding At Nijar
thanks to irrigation. Bodas de Sangre (Blood Wedding), a play by Federico García Lorca
In Spanish minds, the name of (see p59), is based on a tragic event that occurred in 1928 near the
Níjar is closely associated with a town of Níjar. A woman called Paquita la
poignant and violent incident Coja agreed, under pressure from her
that occurred here in the 1920s, sister, to marry a suitor, Casimiro.
and later became the subject of A few hours before the ceremony,
a play by Federico García Lorca. however, she fled with her cousin.
Casimiro felt humiliated and Paquita’s
sister, who had hoped to benefit from the
dowry, was furious. The cousin was found
s Sorbas shot dead and Paquita half-strangled.
Almería. Road map F3. * 3,000. @ Paquita’s sister and her husband,
n Centro de Visitantes los Yesares, Casimiro’s brother, were found
Calle Terraplen, 9 (950 36 45 63). guilty of the crime. Shamed by
( Thu. this horrific scenario, Paquita hid
from the world until her death in
Balanced on the edge of a deep 1987. Lorca never visited Níjar,
chasm, Sorbas overlooks the Río The dramatist Federico García Lorca but based his play on
de Aguas, which flows far below. (1899–1936) newspaper reports.
There are two buildings in this
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TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 212–219

Where to Eat and Drink 220–237
Shops and Markets 238–243
Entertainment in Andalusia 244–247
Outdoor Activities
and Specialist Holidays 248–251
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212 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Some of the most charming places to stay in rural areas. Apartments and village houses
Spain are in Andalusia. They range from throughout the region are let by the week for
restored castles to family guesthouses, and self-catering holidays. Andalusia’s climate is
from one of the most luxurious hotels in also ideal for camping (except Nov–Mar),
Europe to an organic farm deep in the which can be a cheaper alternative.
countryside. For budget travellers there are The hotel listings on pages 216–19 are
pensions and youth hostels, and for hikers organized into different themes, with DK
there are mountain refuges. A night or two Choices highlighted. See Recommended
in a B&B is an increasingly popular option in Hotels on page 215 for more information.
hotel with secure private small hotels a short way inland.

parking, or look around the Look out for them in the white
city’s outer suburbs. You can towns between Arcos de la
ask your hotel to direct you to Frontera (see p179) and Ronda
attended car parks in the city. (see pp180–81), and around
A reasonable alternative is to Cazorla (see p160).
stay in a town close to Seville, Two small private chains have
such as Carmona (see pp136–7). a growing network of hotels in
Granada has two main hotel western Andalusia: the luxury
districts: around the Alhambra Fuerte group and the budget
(see pp198–9), which is quiet, Tugasa chain.
and around the centre, which
is livelier, noisier and usually
cheaper. Central hotels make Hotel Grading and
The Monasterio de San Francisco in the best base for going out on Facilities
Palma del Río (see p218) the town at night. Hotels in Andalusia are awarded
In Córdoba the Judería (see categories and stars by the
pp144–5) is the most conve- regional tourist authorities.
Where to Look nient place to stay if you plan to Hotels (H is the abbreviation)
In Seville, the most appealing get around on foot. If you drive, are awarded between one and
places to stay are mainly in the you may prefer a hotel on the five stars and pensions (P)
centre of town, especially outskirts of the city. between one and two stars. The
around the Santa Cruz district Hotels in Andalusia’s coastal star-rating system assesses the
(see pp74–87), where there is a resorts are mainly the modern quantity of facilities a hotel has
broad range of hotels. As in chains that cater for package (such as whether there is a lift, a
most cities, the cheapest hotels holiday-makers, although there restaurant or air conditioning)
tend to be small family-run are also many small, family- rather than the quality of service
pensions in the backstreets. owned seaside hotels favoured to expect.
Parking is always a problem in by Spanish and foreign visitors Most hotels in the region
the town centre, so if you drive, alike. If you want somewhere have restaurants that can be
you may have to book into a more relaxing, there are good used by non-residents.
The hillside terrace of an Andalusian hotel with views across Granada

Stained glass windows at Atarazanas market, Málaga
W H E R E TO S TAY 213
Hotel-Residencias (HR),
however, do not have dining
rooms, although they may
serve breakfast.
Paradors
Paradors are government-run
hotels that fall into the three-
to five-star classifications. The
best ones occupy historic
monuments, such as castles,
monasteries, palaces and old
hunting lodges, but a number
of them have been purpose-
built in attractive settings.
Though a parador will not
always be the best hotel in
town, they can be counted on
to deliver a predictable level
of comfort: regional dishes will
always be on the menu and
rooms are generally comfort- Traditional courtyards are typical of many Andalusian hotels
able and spacious. The bedroom
furniture varies little from price range, so be sure to week in advance, or you may
parador to parador. enquire about availability and lose all or some of your deposit.
If you are travelling around prices in advance. A reserved room will be held
the paradors during high Note that most hotels in only until 6pm unless you can
season, or intending to stay in Andalusia will quote prices inform the hotel that you are
smaller paradors, it is advisable per room and meal prices going to arrive late.
to book ahead per person without When you book in you will
through parador IVA (VAT). be asked for your passport or
agents (see p214). identity card, to comply with
police regulations. It will be
Booking and returned to you when your
Prices Checking In details have been copied.
Hotels are obliged by You do not need to You are expected to check
law to display their book ahead if you are out of your room by noon or
range of prices at the travelling off-season in to pay for another night. Most
reception desk and in rural Andalusia, unless hotels are happy to keep your
every room. As a rule, you want to stay in a luggage for you until later
the more stars a hotel Five-star hotel particular hotel. On the that day.
has, the more you pay. restaurant sign other hand, it is essential
Rates for a double to reserve rooms by
room start at €45 per night in a phone, through a travel agent or
cheap one-star pension and can on the Internet if you travel in
average as high as €275 in a high season. You will also need
five-star hotel. to book if you want a specific
Prices vary according to the room, with a good view, with a
room, the region and season. double bed (twin beds are the
Rural hotels are generally norm), or away from a noisy
cheaper than city ones. All the road. Hotels in many coastal
prices quoted on pages 216–19 resorts close in the winter, so
are based on the rates for high check that anywhere you want
season. High season is usually to stay is open.
July and August, but it can also Some hotels will request a
run from April to October. City deposit of 20–25 per cent for
hotels charge inflated rates booking during peak times, or
during major fiestas, such as for a long stay. This can be
Semana Santa (see p42) in arranged by credit card and
Seville. Easter is a popular travel phone, even in smaller hotels.
period for the Spanish Others will hold your booking
themselves, and it is usually until an agreed arrival time. Try The impressive entrance of a hotel housed in a
included in the high-season to make cancellations at least a former Sevillian mansion
www.ebook3000.com
and you are advised to now also being let all over the
refuse to sign. region. In the UK, a number of
No hotel in Andalusia private companies, among
takes cheques, even when them The Individual Traveller’s
backed by a guarantee Spain, act as agents for owners
card or drawn on a of apartments and houses.
Spanish bank, and few Many agents belong to an
accept traveller’s cheques. organization called the RAAR
In Spain it is customary (Red Andaluza de Alojamientos
to tip the porter and the Rurales or Andalusian Rural
chambermaid in a hotel Accommodation Network),
by €1–2. The usual tip to through which it is possible to
leave in hotel restaurants make direct bookings.
is 5–10 per cent of the bill, Prices charged for self-
although some restaurants catering accommodation
will have included a sometimes vary considerably:
service charge already. prices are determined by
location, the season and type
of property. A four-person
Self-Catering villa with a pool costs as little
Villas and holiday flats let as €240 for a week if it is inland
by the week are plentiful and over €950 per week if it is
along the Costa del Sol in a prime coastal location.
and the coasts of Granada Another possibility is a villa
and Almería. Most cities turística (holiday village), which
Mosaic tiling in the courtyard of a hostel will also have holiday let is half hotel, half holiday
accommodation in apartments. Guests can hire
central, well-furnished rooms with kitchens and use
Paying apartments that may be the restaurant.
These days most hotels, except cheaper than a comparable
the most basic of bed and hotel and give you the option
breakfasts, accept payment of preparing your own meals. Bed and Breakfast
by credit card. In some large The local tourism office can Andalusia’s 500 or more casas
hotels you may be asked to supply information about rurales offering bed and
sign a blank credit card slip on letting agencies. breakfast range from stately
arrival. Under Spanish law it is Inland, an increasing number cortijos (manor houses) to small
fraudulent to ask you to do this, of village and farm houses are organic farms. Do not expect
DIRECTORY
Hotels Paradors Youth Hostels Tel 954 22 77 66.
∑ irdecampings.com
Asociación de Central de Reservas Central de Reservas
Hoteles de Sevilla Calle José Abascal 2–4, de Inturjoven Federación Andaluza
Calle San Pablo 1, 28003 Madrid. Calle Miño 24, 41011 de Campings
Casa A Bajo, Tel 902 54 79 79. Seville. Map 3 A4. Tel 958 22 35 17.
41001 Seville. ∑ parador.es Tel 902 51 00 00. ∑ campings
Tel 954 22 15 38. Keytel ∑ inturjoven.com andalucia.es
∑ hotelesdesevilla.com The Foundry, Camping and
156 Blackfriars Road, Mountain Refuges Caravanning Club
Asociación de London SE1 8EN UK.
Hoteles Rurales de Federación Andaluza Tel 0845 130 7631.
Tel (020) 7953 3020. ∑ campingand
Andalucía (AHRA) de Montañismo
∑ keytel.co.uk caravanningclub.co.uk
C/Cueva de Viera 2. Calle Santa Paula 23,
Centro del Negocio CADI, 2˚ Planta, 18001 Granada.
Self-Catering & Tel 958 29 13 40. Open: Disabled Travellers
Edificio Málaga Bed & Breakfast
3ª planta local 8, 8:30am–2:30pm Mon–Fri
(also Oct–May: 4–6pm Can Be Done
29200 Antequera, The Individual
Wed). ∑ fedamon.com Congress House, 14 Lyon
Málaga. Traveller’s Spain
Road, Harrow HA1 2EN,
Tel 952 70 51 28. Tel (0800) 096 3439.
∑ ahra.es ∑ villas4you.co.uk Camping UK. Tel (020) 8907 2400.
∑ canbedone.co.uk
Fuerte Hotels RAAR Club de Camping y
∑ fuertehoteles.com Sagunto 8-10-3, Caravanning de Viajes Ilunion
04004 Almería. Andalucía C/ Pechuán 1, 28002
Tugasa Hotels Tel 950 28 00 93. Calle Francisco Carrión Madrid. Tel 913 23 25 23.
∑ tugasa.com ∑ raar.es Mejias 13, 41003 Seville. ∑ viajes.ilunion.com
called Holidays and Travel

Abroad, and Accessible Tourism
publishes a fact sheet for
disabled travellers in Spain.
In Spain, the Confederación
Coordinadora Estatal de
Minusválidos Fisicos de España,
also known as Servi-COCEMFE
(see p256), and Viajes Ilunion
have details of hotels with
special facilities in Andalusia.
Can Be Done arranges
accessible accommodation,
transport and other help for
Some youth hostels can be charmingly rustic visitors all over Europe.
usual hotel service or a long list some outside the major cities
of facilities. However, you may and in popular countryside Recommended Hotels
be met with a friendly welcome areas. Most have electricity and The hotels listed on pages 216–9
and be spoiled with good running water; some also have cover the best boutique, luxury,
home cooking. launderettes, restaurants, shops, bed and breakfast, inns and
A stay at a bed and breakfast play areas for children and pools. historic accommodation types
can be booked through RAAR, It is wise to take a camping in Seville and Andalusia. They
the owners’ association, or dir- carnet (card). It can be used to are listed by price within
ectly. If you are booking from check in at sites, and it also each area. Boutique hotels
abroad you may be asked to gives you third-party insurance. are modern, with high design
send a 10 per cent deposit and Carnets are issued by the AA, elements, while luxury hotels
to stay for at least two nights. the RAC, and by camping and encompass the finest of Seville
caravanning clubs. A map of all and Andalusia’s upscale hotels.
the region’s camp sites, Bed and breakfasts offer a
Youth Hostels and with links to their personable experience, with
Mountain Refuges websites, is available cosy rooms and a hearty
To use Andalusia’s from the F.A.C. breakfast, while inns are quaint
extensive network of (Federación Andaluza places oozing charm. The
albergues juveniles de Campings). area is also full of historic
(youth hostels) you accommodation as many
have to buy an Logo for a monasteries and mansions
international YHA card five-star hotel Disabled Travellers have been converted into hotels.
from a hostel or show Hotel managers will Throughout the listings,
a card from your country. Bed advise on wheelchair access certain hotels have been
and breakfast costs between and staff will always assist, but marked as DK Choice. These
€12 and €18 per person. You few hotels are equipped for the offer a particularly special
can book a bed or room in a disabled. However, some of experience – either for their
hostel directly or through the the youth hostels are. RADAR beautiful surroundings,
central booking office of (see p256), the Royal Association excellent service, outstanding
Inturjoven – Central de for Disability and Rehabilitation, rooms, top-notch amenities,
Reservas de Inturjoven. publishes a useful booklet or a combination of these.
If you backpack in remote
mountain areas, you can stay in
refugios, which are shelters with
basic kitchens and dormitories.
The refugios are marked on all
good large-scale maps of the
mountains and national parks.
They are administered by the
Federación Andaluza de
Montañismo.
Camp Sites
There are more than 110 camp
sites across the region of
Andalusia, many of them along
the coasts but there are also A pretty room in a bed-and-breakfast hotel
www.ebook3000.com
Where to Stay
La Casa del Maestro €€
Historic Map 6 E2 Price Guide
Seville C/Niño Ricardo 5, 41003 Prices are based on one night's stay in
Tel 954 50 00 07 high season for a standard double room,
El Arenal ∑ lacasadelmaestro.com inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Montecarlo € A delightful yellow-ochre guest- € under €120
Boutique Map 5 B3 house centred on a traditional €€ €120 to 200
€€€ over €200
C/Gravina 51, 41001 plant-filled patio. Spacious and
Tel 954 21 75 01 vibrantly decorated rooms.
∑ hotelmontecarlodesevilla.com Maestranza
Restored 18th-century mansion Alfonso XIII €€€ Hispano Luz Confort €
with wrought-iron gates and twin Historic Map 6 D5 B&B Map 6 D5
inner patios. Comfortable rooms. C/San Fernando 2, 41004 C/Miguel Mañara 4, 41004
Tel 954 91 70 00 Tel 955 63 80 79
Taberna del Alabardero €€ ∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com Close to the Real Alcázar is this
Historic Map 5 B3 A regal hotel with opulent modern hotel with well-
C/Zaragoza 20, 41001 furnishings, crystal chandeliers equipped rooms, some with
Tel 954 590 27 21 and marble columns. balconies. Bike rental available.
∑ tabernadelalabardero.es
The rooms here boast antiques EME Catedral Hotel €€€ Triana
and stylish fabrics. Cosy central Luxury Map 6 D4 Ribera de Triana Hotel €€
patio with stained-glass roof. C/Alemanes 27, 41004 Luxury Map 3 A1
Tel 954 56 00 00 Plaza Chapina, 41010
Gran Melia Colon €€€ ∑ emecatedralhotel.com Tel 954 26 80 00
Luxury Map 5 B3 Two restaurants, a panoramic ∑ hotelriberadetriana.com
C/Canalejas 1, 41001 terrace, pool and spa are the key Upmarket hotel with modern
Tel 954 50 55 99 attractions at this superb hotel. decor, rooftop pool and terrace
∑ solmelia.com offering stunning city views, and
Elegant rooms and attentive Las Casas del Rey de Baeza €€€ first-rate technological amenities.
service at this centrally located Boutique Map 6 E2
hotel. Popular with celebrities. Plaza Jesús de la Redención 2, 41003
Tel 954 56 14 96 La Cartuja
∑ hospes.com Barcelo Renacimiento €€
Santa Cruz Stylish hotel with chic bedrooms. Luxury Map 1 C2
Hostería del Laurel € Lovely open-air patio and spa. Avenida Alvaro Alonso Barba,
Historic Map 6 D4 Isla de la Cartuja, 41092
Plaza de los Venerables 5, 41004 Tel 954 46 22 22
Tel 954 22 02 95 La Macarena ∑ barcelo.com
∑ hosteriadellaurel.com Patio de la Alameda € Geared towards business-users,
An atmospheric hotel set in a B&B Map 2 D3 this hotel has modern decor and
historic building in the old quarter. Alameda de Hercules, 56, 41002 a spacious convention centre
The place is said to have inspired Tel 954 90 49 99 with all amenities.
romantic writer Zorrilla to create ∑ patiodelaalemeda.com
the character of Don Juan. Rooms at this delightful B&B are
stylishly furnished with details La Campana
such as mosaic tiled bathrooms. Cervantes €
DK Choice Boutique Map 6 D1
Casa Numero Siete €€ Alcoba del Rey de Sevilla €€ C/Cervantes 10, 41003
Boutique Map 6 E3 Boutique Map 2 D4 Tel 954 90 02 80
C/Virgenes 7, 41004 C/Becquer 9, 41002 ∑ hotel-cervantes.com
Tel 954 22 15 81 Tel 954 91 58 00 A charming hotel with stained-
∑ casanumero7.com ∑ alcobadelrey.com glass ceilings and a white,
Discover luxury in a 19th- Intricate glassware, colourful tiles beautifully tiled patio. Comfort-
century mansion right in and silk cushions define the able bedrooms with mellow
the heart of Seville's evocative decor of this charming hotel. decor. Close to main sights.
old quarter. The furnishings
at this small but immaculate Hotel Boutique Casa
boutique guesthouse include Romana €€
antiques and family heirlooms. Boutique Map 1 C5
C/Trajano 5, 41002
Tel 954 91 51 70
Hotel Inglaterra €€ ∑ hotelcasaromana.
Historic Map 5 C3 com
Plaza Nueva 7, 41001 Roman and
Tel 954 22 49 70 Andalusian themes
∑ hotelinglaterra.es merge in this imagi-
Chic hotel located opposite the native hotel. The
Ayuntamiento (town hall), with elegant rooms border
superb antique furnishings and a bright central patio.
Andalusian tiles. Enjoy a cocktail The rooftop terrace
at the rooftop terrace bar. has a large Jacuzzi. Comfortable furnishings at Casa Numero Siete, Seville
Huelva and Sevilla DK Choice

ALCALÁ DE GUADAÍRA: Hotel CAZALLA DE LA SIERRA:
Oromana € Cartuja de Cazalla €
Historic Map B3 Historic Map B2
Avda de Portugal, 41500 Crta Cazalla-Constantina (A-455)
Tel 955 68 64 00 km 2.5, 41370
∑ hoteloromana.com Tel 954 88 45 16
An atmospheric and friendly ∑ cartujadecazalla.com
hotel set in a converted 1920s A unique refuge from modern
mansion. Great on-site restaurant. life, this two-storey monastery is
popular with and sculptors.
There are eight rooms and a
DK Choice gardener’s cottage for families.
ARACENA: Finca Buen Vino €€ Stylish interiors at Hospes Palacio de Bailio
B&B Map B2 in Córdoba
Carretera N-433, km 95 Los EL ROCÍO: Hotel El Toruño €
Marines, 21293 Inn Map B3 clean rooms and traditional decor.
Tel 959 12 40 34 Plaza Acebuchal 22, 21750 There is a large botanical garden
∑ fincabuenvino.com Tel 959 44 23 23 and the distant murmur of the
This hilltop guesthouse, set ∑ toruno.es Cerezuelo river can be heard
amidst citrus and olive groves A whitewashed villa hotel on the throughout.
bordering a lovely natural park, edge of the Doñana National
is famed for its cuisine and Park. Great location and service. CAZORLA: Parador de Cazorla €€
cookery courses. All rooms are Luxury Map E2
spacious and individually ISLA CRISTINA: Sensimar Isla C/Sierra de Cazorla s/n, 23470
furnished. Expect great service. Cristina Palace €€€ Tel 953 72 70 75
Luxury Map A3 ∑ parador.es
Avenida del Parque, s/n, 21420 Vintage parador located in the
ARACENA: Hotel Convento Tel 959 34 44 99 heart of Cazorla National Park.
Aracena €€ ∑ hotelsensimarislacristina.com Ideal for nature lovers. Closed
Boutique Map B2 Deluxe beachside hotel and spa. mid-November to February.
C/Jesus y Maria 19, 21200 All rooms have private balconies
Tel 959 12 68 99 overlooking the pool or ocean. CÓRDOBA: Hotel Maestre €
∑ hotelconventoaracena.es Inn Map C2
A restored 17th-century convent MAZAGÓN: C/Romero Barros 4-6, 14003
with an outdoor pool and a spa. Parador de Mazagón €€ Tel 957 47 24 10
Luxury Map A3 ∑ hotelmaestre.com
CARMONA: Alcazar de la Reina € Crta San Juan-Matalascañas A charming, traditional hotel
Historic Map B2 km 31, 21130 with a central flower-filled patio,
C/Hermana Concepción Orellana 2, Tel 959 53 63 00 and clean and simple rooms.
41410 ∑ parador.es
Tel 954 19 62 00 Comfortable and well-appointed CÓRDOBA:
∑ alcazar-reina.es parador in a stunning location. Casa de los Azulejos €€
This stately hotel has large, Historic Map C2
elegant rooms with lovely views. SANLÚCAR LA MAYOR: Exe Gran C/Fernando Colon 5, 14002
Hotel Solucar € Tel 957 47 00 00
Luxury Map B2 ∑ casadelosazulejos.com
DK Choice Crta Nacional Sevilla-Huelva A-472 Traditional Córdoban mansion
CARMONA: s/n, 41800 centred around a tiled patio.
Parador de Carmona €€ Tel 955 70 34 08 Modern rooms with Wi-Fi.
Luxury Map B2 ∑ exegranhotelsolucar.com
C/Alcazar s/n, 41410 Comfortable hotel with a CÓRDOBA:
Tel 954 14 10 10 supervised pool. Buffet breakfast. Eurostars Las Adelfas €€
∑ parador.es Luxury Map C2
This is a classic Spanish parador. Avda de la Arruzafa, 14012
Originally a Moorish fortress, it Tel 957 27 74 20
has a stunning hilltop site and Córdoba and Jaén ∑ eurostarslasadelfas.com
majestic interiors decorated BAEZA: Hotel Fuentenueva € Elegant hotel with a large pool
with tapestries and antiques. Historic Map E2 set in lovely gardens. Great service.
The rooms are stylish and C/Carmen 15, 23440
comfortable. Relax in the Tel 953 74 31 00 CÓRDOBA:
outdoor pool (summer only). ∑ fuentenueva.com Hospes Palacio de Bailio €€
All rooms at this hotel, located in Boutique Map C2
a 16th-century building, have C/Ramirez de las
CAZALLA DE LA SIERRA: hydromassage baths. Casas Deza 10–12, 14001
Las Navezuelas € Tel 957 49 89 93
Inn Map B2 CAZORLA: Molino de la Farraga € ∑ hospes.com
Crta Cazalla-Ed. Pedrosa, 41370 Historic Map E2 Magnificent 17th-century palace
Tel 954 88 47 64 Camino de la Hoz, 23470 with beautiful gardens. Many of
∑ lasnavezuelas.com Tel 953 72 12 49 the original features have been
A lovely cortijo (farmhouse) with ∑ molinolafarraga.com preserved and walls are adorned
simple rooms and homely meals. A restored 200-year-old mill with with original artwork and frescos.
For more information on types of hotels see pp212–15
www.ebook3000.com
GIBRALTAR: Rock Hotel €€€

DK Choice Historic Map C4
CÓRDOBA: Lola €€ 3 Europe Road, Gibraltar
Boutique Map C2 Tel +350 20 07 30 00
C/Romero 3, 14001 ∑ rockhotelgibraltar.com
Tel 957 20 03 05 A 70-year-old colonial style
∑ hotelconencantolola.com/ cliffside hotel with a nostalgic
html/hotel.html aura and cosy guest rooms.
Set in a lovingly restored 19th-
century palace, this charming
boutique hotel is an atmospheric DK Choice
place to stay in Córdoba’s GRAZALEMA:
labyrinthine Judería quarter. Hotel Fuerte Grazalema €
There are eight period Inn Map C3
furnished rooms – all named Baldio de los Alamillos, Crta
after Arab princesses. Superb A-372, km 53, 11610
views of the city from the terrace. View from the roof terrace at Casa Grande, Tel 956 13 30 00
Arcos de la Frontera ∑ fuertehoteles.com
A comfortable rural hotel
JAÉN: Parador de Jaén €€ ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: located inside the wooded
Luxury Map D2 Parador de Arcos de Grazalema Nature Reserve. Ideal
Castillo de Santa Catalina s/n la Frontera € for walking, cycling or horse-
Tel 953 23 00 00 Historic Map B3 riding breaks. Good children's
∑ parador.es Plaza del Cabildo, 11630 facilities. The on-site restaurant
Hilltop parador with traditional Tel 956 70 05 00 serves regional dishes.
Arabic decor and rooms that ∑ parador.es
offer panoramic views. Converted magistrate’s mansion
with great views from the terrace. MÁLAGA: Salles Hotel €€
PALMA DEL RÍO: Luxury Map D3
Monasterio de San Francisco € CÁDIZ: Pension Centro-Sol € C/Marmoles 6, 29007
Historic Map C2 Inn Map B4 Tel 952 07 02 16
Avda del Pio XII 35, 14700 C/Manzanares 7, 11005 ∑ salleshotels.com
Tel 957 71 01 83 Tel 956 28 31 03 Well-appointed hotel in the heart
∑ intergrouphoteles.com ∑ hostalcentrosolcadiz.com of Málaga with superb city views.
A 15th-century monastery with A Neo-classical hostel with clean
clean rooms and organic meals. rooms and a warm ambience. MARBELLA: Hotel Fuerte
Marbella €€€
ÚBEDA: Zenit El Postigo € CÁDIZ: Hotel Playa Victoria €€ Luxury Map C4
Inn Map E2 Boutique Map B4 C/El Fuerte, 29602
C/Postigo 5, 23400 Glorieta Ingeniero La Cierva 4, 11010 Tel 952 86 15 00
Tel 953 75 00 00 Tel 956 20 53 40 ∑ fuertehoteles.com
Modern hotel with fireplace, ∑ palafoxhoteles.com Marbella’s very first purpose-built
pool and garden. Free Wi-Fi. Eco-friendly seafront hotel with luxury hotel. Close to the beach.
avant-garde interior furnishings.
ZUHEROS: Zuhayra € MARBELLA:
Inn Map D2 CAÑOS DE MECA: Las Breña €€ Marbella Club Hotel €€€
C/Mirador 10, 14870 Boutique Map B4 Luxury Map C4
Tel 957 69 46 93 Avda Trafalgar 4, 11149 Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso von
∑ zercahoteles.com Tel 956 4373 68 Hohenlohe, 29600
Friendly hotel with neat rooms and Simple, spacious rooms, some Tel 952 82 22 11
modern amenities. Good location. with sea views. Excellent ∑ marbellaclub.com
beach location. A deluxe beachside hotel with
lush gardens, swimming pools,
CASTELLAR DE LA FRONTERA: world-class golf course and spa.
Cádiz and Málaga Casa Convento La Almoraima €
Historic Map C4 MIJAS: Hotel Hacienda
Ctra. Algeciras-Ronda s/n, Finca la Puerta del Sol €
Almoraima, 11350 Luxury Map C3
DK Choice Tel 956 69 30 02 Crta Fuengirola-Mijas km 4, 29650
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: ∑ laalmoraimahotel.com Tel 952 48 64 00
Casa Grande € A former monastery converted ∑ hotelclubpuertadelsol.com
Historic Map B3 into a modern hotel with antique Stylish hotel with an exceptional
C/Maldonaldo 10, 11360 furnishings and an inner patio. range of sports amenities, and
Tel 956 70 39 30 both covered and open-air pools.
∑ lacasagrande.net CORTES DE LA FRONTERA:
A gleaming whitewashed Casa Rural Ahora € NERJA: El Carabeo €
18th-century mansion with a Inn Map C3 Boutique Map D3
hilltop location, offering great Bda El Colmenar 29490 C/Hernando de Carabeo 34, 29780
views of the Andalusian Tel 952 15 30 46 Tel 952 52 54 44
countryside below. Each room ∑ casaruralahora.com ∑ hotelcarabeo.com
has unique decor. Good A rural hideaway nestled in a A charming, British-owned hotel.
breakfast spread. valley beside a stream. Chic rustic Rooms are furnished with
furnishings and decor. antiques and original artworks.
Key to Price Guide see p216
OJÉN: Posada del Angel €

Inn Map C3
C/Mesones 21, 29610
Tel 952 88 18 08
∑ laposadadelangel.net
Traditional Andalusian hotel with
individually decorated rooms.
Enjoy breakfast on the patio.
PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA:

Monasterio de San Miguel €€
Historic Map B3
C/Virgen de los Milagros 27, 11500
Tel 956 54 04 40 Light and spacious suite at La Bobadilla, Loja
∑ sanmiguelhotelmonasterio.com
A former Capuchin monastery Tel 950 27 81 78 MECINA BOMBARÓN: Casas
with many original features. Rooms ∑ hotelcatedral.net Rurales Benarum €€
are large and simply furnished. A converted manor house with B&B Map E3
spacious and comfortable rooms. C/Casas Blancas 1, 18450
RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: Great views from the roof terrace. Tel 958 85 11 49
Molino de Santillan €€ ∑ benarum.com
Historic Map D3 GRANADA: Hostal Landázuri € Plush hotel in the mountains of
Ctra de Macharaviaya km 3, 29730 Inn Map D3 Alpujarra with all modern comforts.
Tel 952 40 09 49 Cuesta de Gomeréz 24, 18009 Facilities include Jacuzzis, hydro-
∑ molinodesantillan.es Tel 958 22 14 06 massage cabins and Finnish saunas.
Warm decor at this converted ∑ hostallandazuri.com
former finca set high on a hilltop. A quaint pension with terraces MOJÁCAR: Parador
overlooking the city and Alhambra. de Mojácar €€
RONDA: Parador de Ronda €€€ Luxury Map F3
Historic Map C3 GRANADA: Posada del Toro € Paseo del Mediterráneo 339, 04638
Plaza España, 29400 Inn Map D3 Tel 950 47 82 50
Tel 952 87 75 00 C/Elviria 25, 18010 ∑ parador.es
∑ parador.es Tel 958 22 73 33 Dazzling white beachside
A parador with bright, stylish ∑ posadadeltoro.com parador with comfortable rooms
rooms – top floor suites have A renovated 19th-century inn that offer Mediterranean views.
fine views – and a huge garden. that blends old charm and modern
comforts. Wi-Fi in all rooms. MONACHIL: La Almunia
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA: del Valle €€
Hotel Barrameda € GRANADA: Casa 1800 €€ Boutique Map E3
Boutique Map B3 Boutique Map D3 Camino de la Umbria, 18193
Ancha 10, 11540 C/Benalua 11, 18010 Tel 958 30 80 10
Tel 956 38 58 78 Tel 958 21 07 00 ∑ laalmuniadelvalle.com
∑ hotelbarrameda.com ∑ hotelcasa1800granada.com Friendly boutique hotel located
Smart hotel overlooking plaza Romantic hotel in a converted high in the Sierra Nevada. Lovely
Cabildo. Some of the modern 17th-century mansion. The gardens and pool (summer only).
rooms have private terraces. façade features the original
Renaissance-style murals. ORGIVA: Taray Botanico €
TARIFA: Hurricane Hotel €€ B&B Map E3
Boutique Map B4 Crta A-348 Tablete-Abuñol km 18,
Crta N-340 Km 78, 11380 DK Choice 18400
Tel 956 68 49 19 GRANADA: Tel 958 78 45 25
∑ hurricanehotel.com Parador de Granada €€€ ∑ hoteltaray.com
Laidback hotel with lush gardens, Luxury Map D3 A lovely whitewashed rural hotel
two pools and health facilities C/Real de la Alhambra, 18009 with an olive and orange tree-
such as gym, sauna and massage Tel 958 22 14 40 filled garden. Free parking.
services. Great on-site restaurant. ∑ parador.es
Lovingly restored from an old PECHINA: Hotel Balneario de
VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: convent, this parador enjoys an Sierra Alhamilla €
La Casa del Califa € incomparable location right Historic Map F3
Boutique Map B4 inside the grounds of the C/Los Baños s/n, 04259
Plaza de España, 16 11150 Alhambra Palace. Elegantly- Tel 950 31 74 13
Tel 956 44 77 30 appointed rooms. Book ahead. Well-restored 18th-century spa
∑ lacasadelcalifa.com hotel in the Sierra Alhamilla.
An intimate and charming hotel
with individually decorated LOJA: La Bobadilla €€€ SAN JOSÉ: Cortijo el Sotillo €€
rooms. Excellent service. Luxury Map D3 Historic Map F3
Crtr Salinas-Villanueva de Tapia Crta San Jose, 04118
(A-333), km 65.5, 18300 Tel 950 61 11 00
Tel 958 32 18 61 ∑ cortijoelsotillo.es
Granada and Almería ∑ barcelolabobadilla.com 18th-century farmhouse set in
ALMERÍA: Hotel Catedral € A luxurious hotel in a quiet Cabo de Gata Natural Park. Enjoy
Historic Map F3 location, perfect for relaxation. All the quiet of unspoilt beaches,
Plaza de la Catedral 8, 04002 rooms/suites have unique decor. just a short drive away.
For more information on types of hotels see pp212–15
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WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

One of the joys of eating out in this region tapas bars serving fresh, home-cooked
is the sheer sociability of the Andalusians. food. The restaurants listed on pages
Family and friends, often with children in 228–37 have been selected for food and
tow, start early with tapas, and usually conviviality. There is a guide to regional
continue eating until after midnight. food on pages 222–3, and to tapas, with
The food has a regional bias – the best a glossary on pages 224–5. Pages 226–7
restaurants have grown from taverns and illustrate typical drinks of the region.
Inland, rich stews with hams 3pm, followed by a siesta hour.

and sausages, and game, pork, By 5:30pm or 6pm cafés, salones
lamb and chicken dishes are de té (tea rooms) and pastelerías
served. Vegetables and salads (pastry shops) fill up for la
are excellent, as is Andalusia’s merienda (tea): pastries and
signature dish, gazpacho, a cold cakes with coffee, tea or juice.
soup made from fresh toma- Tapas bars become busy by
toes, cucumber and peppers. 8:30pm. La cena (supper) is
eaten from about 9pm,
although some places begin
Meal Times service earlier for tourists.
In Spain, desayuno Spaniards tend to lunch
The dining room of El Churrasco restaurant, (breakfast), is a light out on weekdays and
Córdoba (see p231) meal, often toasted dine out at weekends.
bread with butter and Sunday lunch is
jam and café con leche usually a family affair.
Andalusian Cuisine (milky coffee). A more
The food of Andalusia falls into substantial breakfast
two categories: coastal and follows between 10 and How to Dress
inland. Five of the region’s 11am, a bocadillo or Spanish people
eight provinces have stretches mollete (a baguette or dress smartly,
of coastline and a sixth, Seville, roll) with ham, sausage especially in city
has a tidal river and several or cheese; or a slice of restaurants. In the
seaports (Cádiz, Sanlúcar, Bar- tortilla de patatas beach resorts, dress
bate and Zahara among them) (potato omelette). Standing up, is casual, although
nearby. Coastal cooking Churros (fried dough enjoying a tapa shorts at night are
includes a huge variety of fish strips) are sold mainly frowned on.
and shellfish. The most famous from stalls in autumn and winter.
fish dish is pescaito frito (fried It is common for Andalusians
fish). Although fish is integral to to stop in a bar for a beer or Reading the Menu
the Spanish diet, meat dishes wine with tapas around 1pm. By The Spanish for menu is la carta.
such as veal and chops also 2 or 2:30pm offices close for The Spanish menú means a
make regular appearances on almuerzo (lunch), the main meal fixed-price menu of the day. The
menus across the region. of the day, eaten between 2 and day’s specialities are often
chalked on a board or clipped
to the menu. Some finer
restaurants offer a menú de
degustación, which allows you
to sample six or seven of the
chef’s special dishes.
La carta will start with sopas
(soups), ensaladas (salads),
entremeses (hors d’oeuvres),
huevos y tortillas (eggs and
omelettes) and verduras y
legumbres (vegetable dishes).
Main courses are pescados y
mariscos (fish and shellfish) and
carnes y aves (meat and poultry).
Paella and other rice dishes often
come as the first course. Follow
Bar in Calle Gerona, behind the Iglesia de Santa Catalina (see p95), Seville rice with meat, or start with
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 221
serrano ham or salad and follow

with paella. It is quite normal to
order just one or two courses
from any part of the menu.
Desserts and puddings are
grouped as postres, but fresh
fruit is the preferred choice for
desserts in Andalusia.
Children
Children are generally very
welcome, but there are seldom
special facilities for them.
Ventas, or country restaurants,
are the exception; they often
have play areas.
Smoking Stylish dining room of the exclusive Oriza, Seville (see p229)
Smoking is not permitted
inside public areas, including Wine Choices bream, to be priced by weight.
in restaurants, cafés and bars. Dry fino wines are perfect with The bill (la cuenta) includes
Smoking on outside terraces shellfish, serrano ham, olives, service charges and sometimes
is still allowed. soups and first courses. Wines to a small cover charge. Prices on
accompany meals are usually the menus do not include ten
from Ribera del Duero, Rioja, per cent IVA (VAT), which, as a
Wheelchair Access Navarra or Penedés. A tapas bar rule, is added when the bill is
Since restaurants are rarely might serve Valdepeñas or La totalled. Tipping is just that,
designed for wheelchairs, you Mancha wines. Oloroso wines a discretionary gratuity. The
(or hotel staff ) should call to are often drunk as a digestif. (See Spanish rarely tip more than
book and to discuss access to also What to Drink pp226–7 and five per cent, often just
restaurant and toilets. Spanish The Land of Sherry pp34–5.) rounding up the bill.
law requires all new-build public Credit cards are accepted in
buildings to have wheelchair restaurants everywhere, but do
access, so newer restaurants What it Costs not expect to pay by credit card
will offer easier disabled access The cheapest places to eat are in a tapas bar or café.
and facilities such as adapted usually tapas bars and smaller,
toilets and wheelchair space in family-run establishments
dining areas. (bar-restaurantes). A menú Recommended
del día is offered Restaurants
in the majority of The restaurants featured in this
restaurants. It is guide have been selected for
usually three courses their good value, food, location
and priced well and atmosphere. A wide range
below choices from of establishments have been
la carta. included – from no-frills dining
Ordering from la spots, tapas bars and restaurants
carta in a restaurant specializing in seafood to stylish
can push your final diners featuring tasting menus
bill way above prepared by leading Spanish
average, especially if chefs. Seville offers plenty of
you choose pricey tempting options for both
items like ibérico carnivores and vegetarians.
ham and fresh Note that establishments
seafood. If you find labelled DK Choice are places
“bargain prices” for that have been highlighted in
swordfish, hake, sole recognition of an exceptional
and other fish, then it feature – exquisite food, an
is probably frozen. inviting ambience or simply for
Expect shellfish such great value. Most of these
as lobster and large places are popular with locals
Relaxed ambience at the Manolo Bar in the Parque María prawns, and fish and visitors, so be sure to book
Luisa (see pp102–3), Seville such as sea bass and well in advance.
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The Flavours of Andalusia

Andalusia is vast, bordered on one side by the Mediterranean and
on the other by the Atlantic. Inland are lofty mountains, undulating
hills, endless olive groves and bright fields of sunflowers. The cuisine
is as varied as the terrain, with a huge array of seafood, meat and
game, and sun-ripened fruit and vegetables. The tapeo (tapas-bar-
hopping) is a regional institution and, around Granada, these little
morsels are still often served free with drinks. Along the coast,
especially the Costa del Sol, the influx of foreigners has brought
glamorous international restaurants but, inland, traditional recipes
Olives and olive oil
are still the norm at old-fashioned ventas (countryside restaurants).
neighbourhood. Tapas are imaginable variety of seafood,

often accompanied by a glass including cod, hake, prawns,
of chilled, dry fino sherry, or crayfish, clams, razor clams,
perhaps a cold draught beer octopus, cuttlefish, squid, sole
(una caña). Tapas were once and tuna. Almost every seaside
free, but that tradition has resort will offer pescaíto frito,
largely died out. originally a Málaga dish, made
with whatever fish is freshest
that day. In Cádiz, they are
Seafood served in a paper cone, and
It is not surprising, given its in nearby Sanlúcar you must
extensive coastline, that not miss the sweet and juicy
Choosing from a selection of tapas southern Spain offers every langostinos (king prawns).
Jamón Iberico Morcilla Morcilla with rice Salchichón Iberico bellota

Tapas bellota with onion
Chorizo rosario picante
The tapeo, or tapas crawl, is an
intrinsic part of daily life in Lomo
Andalusia. Each bar is usually embuchado
known for a particular
speciality: one might be well
known for its home-made
croquetas (potato croquettes,
usually filled with ham or
cod), while another will serve
exceptional hams, and yet
another might make the best
albóndigas (meatballs) in the Selection of delicious Spanish embutidos (cured meats)
Regional Dishes and Specialities

Andalusia embodies many of the images most closely associated
with Spain – the heady rhythms of flamenco, striking white villages,
bull fighting and, of course, tapas. You can easily make a meal of
these delectable treats, and most bars have an excellent range. Don’t
miss the mouthwatering hams (jamón) from
Jabugo and Trevélez which are famed
throughout Spain, or the platters of freshly
fried fish liberally doused with lemon juice. An
ice-cold sherry (the word comes from Jérez,
where most sherry is produced) is deliciously
refreshing in the searing summer heat and is
the most popular tipple at southern fiestas.
While pork, particularly cured ham remains Gazpacho This chilled soup
the most appreciated local meat, duck, beef combines ripe tomatoes,
and lamb are also favourites, subtly flavoured breadcrumbs, cucumbers, garlic,
Pomegranates with aromatic bay leaves. vinegar, olive oil and peppers.
topped with thin slices of

tomato and drizzled with
olive oil – utterly delicious.
The hot climate is perfect
for fruit and vegetables,
including luscious peaches,
papayas, persimmons and
mangoes, as well as tomatoes,
asparagus, aubergines
(eggplants) and artichokes.
The chilled tomato soup,
gazpacho, is a classic, but
salmorejo, which is thicker and
topped with a sprinkling of
Andalusian market stall displaying fresh local produce chopped boiled eggs and
ham, is even tastier.
Meat and Game raised for bull-fighting but most
Pork (cerdo) is king in Anda- for meat) are a common sight, ON THE MENU
lusia. The famous hams of and one of the most popular
Jabugo (in the southwest) and local dishes is rabo de toro (bull’s Chocos con habas Cuttlefish is
Trevélez (near Granada) are tail). All kinds of cured meats are cooked with beans, white wine
made here, often to traditional and plenty of bay leaves.
among the finest produced in
Spain, and are made with free- recipes that have remained Pato a la Sevillana Succulent
range, black-footed pigs fed on unchanged for centuries. duck, cooked slowly with onion,
a diet of acorns. Beef (ternera) is In the wild inland Sierras, you leeks, carrots, bayleaf and a
also popular; endless fields full will find an abundance of dash of sherry, this is a speciality
of glossy black bulls (some game in season, along with of Seville.
the traditional country staples Rabo de Toro An Andalusian
of lamb (cordero) and classic, made with chunks of
rabbit (conejo). bull’s tail, slowly braised with
vegetables, bay leaf and a dash
of sherry until tender.
Fruit and Vegetables Salmorejo Cordobés
The undulating Andalusian A creamy tomato dip thickened
fields and hillsides are with breadcrumbs.
densely covered with Torta de Camarones Delicious
beautiful olive groves, and fritters filled with tiny, whole
the best oils are graded as shrimps.
carefully as fine wines. Tortilla del Sacromonte A
Olive oil is liberally used in speciality of Granada: omelette
Andalusian cuisine, and the with brains, kidney or other offal,
Prawns and sardines on display at the typical southern breakfast peppers and peas.
fishmarket is toasted country bread
Huevos a la Flamenca Eggs Pescaíto Frito A seaside Tocino de Cielo This is a creamy
are baked in a terracotta dish favourite, this is a platter of small custard dessert with a caramel
with tomato sauce, ham and fish tossed in batter and quickly topping. Its name means
chorizo sausage. fried in olive oil. “heavenly lard”.
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Choosing Tapas
Tapas, sometimes called pinchos, are small snacks that
originated in Andalusia in the 19th century to accom-
pany sherry. Stemming from a bartender’s practice of
covering a glass with a saucer or tapa (cover) to keep out flies,
the custom progressed to a chunk of cheese or bread being used,
and then to a few olives being placed on a platter to accompany a drink. Mixed
Once free of charge, tapas are usually paid for nowadays, and a selection green olives
makes a delicious light meal. Choose from a range of appetizing varieties, from
cold meats to elaborately prepared hot dishes of meat, seafood or vegetables.
Patatas bravas Albóndigas (meatballs) are a

is a piquant dish hearty tapa, often served with
of fried potatoes a spicy tomato sauce.
with a spicy
red sauce.
Almendras
fritas are fried,
salted almonds.
Banderillas are
canapés skewered
on toothpicks. The
entire canapé
should be
eaten at once.
Calamares fritos are squid rings

and tentacles which have been dusted
with flour before being deep fried in Jamón serrano is salt-
olive oil. They are usually served cured ham dried in
garnished with a piece of lemon. mountain (serrano) air.
ON THE TAPAS BAR

Aceitunas Olives Callos Tripe Chorizo diablo Chorizo served
Alcachofas Artichokes, typically flamed with brandy
Caracoles Snails
served pickled in vinegar Costillas Spare ribs
Carne en salsa Meat in a
Almejas Clams thick sauce Criadillas Bulls’ testicles
Berenjenas rebozadas Battered Champiñones Button mushrooms Croquetas Croquettes
and fried aubergines (eggplants) fried and served in a light sauce Ensaladilla Rusa “Russian salad”,
Boquerones al natural Fresh with garlic and parsley with vegetables and mayonnaise
anchovies in garlic and olive oil. Chipirones a la plancha Grilled Gambas pil pil Spicy, garlicky fried
Often served fried as well cuttlefish with a garlic and king prawns (shrimp)
Buñuelos de bacalao Salted parsley sauce Habas con jamón Tender broad
cod fritters Chopitos Cuttlefish fried in beans fried with jamón serrano
Cacahuetes Peanuts batter Magro Pork in a paprika and
Calamares a la romana Fried Chorizo al vino Chorizo sausage tomato sauce
squid rings cooked in red wine Manitas de cerdo Pig’s trotters
Tapas Bars
Even a small village will have at least one bar where the
locals go to enjoy drinks, tapas and conversation with
friends. On Sundays and holidays, favourite places are
packed with whole families enjoying the fare. In larger
towns it is customary to move from bar to bar, sampling
the specialities of each. A tapa is a single serving, whereas
a ración is two or three. Tapas are usually eaten standing
or perching on a stool at the bar rather that sitting at a
table, for which a surcharge is generally made.
Choice of tapas at a busy bar
Salpicón de
Chorizo, a popular
mariscos is a
sausage flavoured
luxurious cold
with paprika and
salad of assorted
garlic, may be eaten
fresh seafood in a
cold or fried and
zesty vinaigrette.
served hot.
Gambas a la plancha is a
simple but flavourful dish of
grilled prawns (shrimp).
Tortilla española is the ubi-

quitous Spanish omelette of onion
and potato, often served cold.
Queso manchego Pollo al ajillo consists of small pieces of

is a sheep’s-milk cheese chicken (often wings) sautéd and then
from La Mancha. simmered with a garlic-flavoured sauce.
Mejillones Mussels Pan de ajo Garlic bread Pulpo Baby octopus

Merluza a la romana Hake fried in Patatas a lo pobre Potato chunks Quesos Spanish cheeses
a light batter sauteéd with onions and red and Rabo de toro Bull’s tail
Migas Breadcrumbs, fried and green peppers
Revueltos Scrambled eggs with
flavoured with a variety of Patatas alioli Potato chunks in a asparagus or mushrooms
savoury ingredients garlic mayonnaise
Salmonetes Red mullet
Montaditos Mini sandwiches Pescaítos fritos Fish given a light Sardinas Sardines, fried or grilled
made with a variety of fillings dusting of flour and fried
Sepia a la plancha Grilled
Morcilla Black (blood) pudding Pescaditos Small fried fish cuttlefish
Muslitos del mar Crab-meat Pimientos Fried green peppers Sesos Brains, usually lamb or calf
croquette, skewered onto a claw Pimientos rellenos Stuffed Truita de patates Catalan name
Orejas de cerdo Pig’s ear peppers, usually with tuna for tortilla española
Paella Rice dish made with meat, Pinchos morunos pork kebabs, Verdura a la plancha Grilled
fish and/or vegetables Moorish-style vegetables
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What to Drink in Andalusia

Andalusia is the third-largest of Spain’s wine regions and
produces some of the world’s best-known wines; particularly
sherry (see pp34–5). Wine is such a large part of the culture
that festivals celebrating the vendimia (grape harvest) are
held all over the region (see p40). Bars and cafés are an
institution in Andalusia, and much public life takes place over
morning coffee. Start the day with coffee at the counter in a
café, have sherry or beer at midday, wine with lunch, and
finish lunch or dinner with coffee and a copa of brandy.
Autumn grape harvest or vendimia
celebrated all over Andalusia
Fino
Fino is Andalusia’s signature drink. Ask for un fino,
or una copa de vino fino. Depending on where
you are, you may be served a dry, pale sherry
from Jerez de la Frontera (see p166), a dry
Montilla-Moriles wine from Córdoba province, or
a dry Manzanilla, a sherry from Sanlúcar de
Barrameda (see p166). You can also ask for fino by
name: for instance, Tío Pepe, a sherry from the
González Byass bodega in Jerez; Gran
Barquero, which comes from Montilla
(see p151); or Solear, a Manzanilla from
the Barbadillo bodega in Sanlúcar.
Manzanilla is the favoured drink during
the Feria de Abril in Seville (see p42).
Fino wine has a higher degree of
alcohol than table wines (around 15 per
cent). When drunk, it should have a fresh
aroma and be dry and light to the palate.
Fino from Manzanilla from Fino from It is usually served chilled, in a small-
Jerez Sanlúcar Montilla stemmed glass with a rim narrower
than its base. (Hold it by the base, not
around the middle.) However, in some rustic bars,
Wine fino comes in a tall, straight glass known as a
Andalusia produces a few young white table copita or a vasito.
wines, notably Castillo de San Diego, Marqués de Fino is most often drunk with first courses and
la Sierra and wines from El Condado (see p133). tapas, and its dry taste is a perfect accompaniment
Most table wines – tinto (red), blanco (white) and to dishes such as jamón serrano (see pp224–5).
rosado (rosé) – come from other parts of Spain. In
more up-market establishments these
tend to be Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Beer
Navarra and Penedés. Look for the label Several brands of lager beers are
showing the wine’s denominación de brewed in Andalusia. These all come
origen (guarantee of origin and quality). in bottles, though quite a few of them
Recent vintages, or cosecha wines, are are available on draught, too. People
the least expensive; crianza and often drink draught
reserva wines are aged and more beers with tapas,
expensive. Cava, sparkling wines especially in
made by méthode champenoise, are summer. Ask for una
usually from Catalonia. caña. One very good
Tapas bars tend to serve ordinary local beer, among
Valdepeñas and La Mancha wines. the best in Spain, is
People often dilute these with Cruzcampo.
some gaseosa, a fizzy, slightly Another, which
sweet lemonade. The resulting may perhaps be
mixture – known as tinto de verano more familiar to
(“summer red wine”) – is actually Castillo de San non-Spaniards, Una caña de Cruzcampo in a
very refreshing. Diego is San Miguel. cerveza bottle
Other Aperitifs and Digestifs

Anise brandy, which is often called aguardiente,
the name for any distilled spirit, can be sweet
or dry. It is drunk from breakfast (desayuno)
to late afternoon tea (la merienda) and is
sometimes accompanied by little cakes,
especially during festivities. It is also drunk
after dinner as a digestif.
Tinto de verano is a summer drink of red
wine with ice and gaseosa. Sangría is a red-
wine punch with fruit.
With tapas, instead of fino, try one of
the mellow apéritif wines, such as amon-
tillado, oloroso or palo cortado (see p35),
Anise brandy Moscatel from Lepanto coñac made in Jerez and Montilla. With your
(aguardiente) Málaga from Jerez dessert try a moscatel; the best known of
these is a Málaga wine made from Pedro
Coffee Ximénez or muscatel grapes. Alternatively try a
In the morning, the Spanish tend to sweet “cream” sherry from Jerez. After dinner, have
drink café con leche, half hot milk, half a brandy with coffee. Spanish brandy comes
coffee, often served in a glass instead mainly from the sherry bodegas in Jerez and is
of a cup. Children and insomniacs called coñac in bars. Most bodegas produce at
might prefer to have a least three labels and price ranges, often
leche manchada displayed on shelves whose levels correspond
instead, prepared Café con leche to quality. A good middle-
with just a shelf brandy is Magno;
“shadow” of coffee and lots top-shelf labels are
of hot milk. Another option Lepanto and Larios 1886.
is a cortado, which is mainly If you are going on, say,
Café solo coffee, with a tiny amount to a nightclub, it is
of milk. After dinner, you customary to switch to tall
should drink café solo, a black espresso-style drinks – whisky with ice
coffee, which is served in a tiny cup, though it and water, gin and tonic
sometimes comes in a short glass. or rum and soda. Rum is
Spanish coffee is made in espresso machines made on the south coast, Amontillado from Jerez, an
from coffee beans dark-roasted (torrefacto) with where sugar cane is grown. apéritif wine
a little sugar to give it a special flavour.
Hot Chocolate
Other Drinks Chocolate, originally from
Herbal teas or infusiones can be ordered in most Mexico, was imported to
bars and cafés. Poleo-menta (mint), manzanilla Europe by conquistadors.
(camomile), and tila (limeflower) are among the Tchocolatl, a bitter,
best. Zumo de naranja natural (freshly squeezed peppery drink made from
Hot chocolate cocoa, was drunk by the
orange juice) is excellent but expensive and not
Aztec Indians during
always available. Mosto is grape juice. Tap water religious celebrations. Nuns, living in the colonies,
throughout Spain is safe to drink, but Andalusians adapted it by adding sugar to the
are discerning about the taste of their cocoa, creating a sweeter
water and buy it bottled from natural drink more acceptable to
springs, such as Lanjarón (see p193); it European tastes. During
can be bought either sin gas (still) or the 16th century, chocolate
con gas (bubbly). Fresh goat’s milk is became increasingly
also available in most villages. popular. Spain had a
monopoly on the export
of cocoa beans and the
“formula” for chocolate
was a state secret for
over a century. In the
1830s, the English writer,
Richard Ford, described
chocolate as “for the
Spanish what tea is for
the English”. For many Indian making
Mineral water Camomile tea Spaniards this is still the case. tchocolatl
from Lanjarón Fresh orange juice (manzanilla)
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Where to Eat and Drink

Enrique Becerra €€ Price Guide
Seville Historic Map 5 C4 Prices categories include a three-course
C/ Gamazo 2, 41001 evening meal for one including a half
El Arenal Tel 954 21 30 49 Closed Sun bottle of house wine and all extra charges.
Bodeguita Casablanca € Sample delicious albóndigas de € under €25
Traditional Map 5 C5 cordero a la yerbabuena (lamb €€ €25 to 45
€€€ over €45
C/Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12, 41002 meatballs with mint) or pastel de
Tel 954 22 41 14 Closed Sat eve, Sun queso, beicon y alcauciles (cheese,
Traditional family-run tapas bar bacon and artichoke pie) at this Albarama €€
with no-frills decor of tiles and renovated 19th-century mansion. Fusion Map 5 C3
barrel tables. Very popular with Plaza de San Francisco 5, 41004
regular clientèle. Tel 954 22 97 84 Closed Sun eve
DK Choice Stylish but casual gastro-bar with
La Brunilda Tapas € Taberna del Alabardero €€ a commanding plaza location.
Modern Map 5 B3 Traditional Map 5 B3 Delicious, innovative dishes, such
C/ Galera 5, 41001 C/ Zaragoza 20, 41001 as hamburgesa de atún con tartar
Tel 954 22 04 81 Closed Sun eve Tel 954 50 27 21 de aguacate (tuna burger with
Bright, modern bar with excellent Savour a flavoursome meal in avocado tartar sauce).
tapas. Try the solomillo de buey y this beautiful eating spot set
patatas al tomillo (ox sirloin with in an old, refurbished mansion. Berrecita €€
thyme potatoes). Tuck into one of the popular Fine Dining Map 6 F3
dishes, such as the excellent C/ Recaredo 9, 41004
El Aguador de Velazquez €€ merluza al horno sobre fideuá Tel 954 41 20 57 Closed Sun eve
Fusion Map 5 C3 (hake on a bed of noodles). An intimate restaurant offering
C/ Albareda 14, 41001 gourmet creations. Don’t miss
Tel 954 22 47 20 the rape con sopeao (angler fish
Tucked away on a backstreet, in lobster and tomato sauce).
El Aguador is a delight. The menu Santa Cruz & Parque
ranges from regional favourites María Luisa Casa Plácido €€
to adaptations of Asian and Traditional Map 6 E4
Mexican dishes. El Modesto € Mesón del Moro 5, 41004
Traditional Map 6 E4 Tel 954 56 39 71
El Burladero €€ C/ Cano y Cueto 5 (Plaza de la Small tapas bar decorated with
Fine Dining Map 5 B3 Carne), 41004 traditional tiles, bullfight posters
C/ Canalejas 1, 41001 Tel 954 41 68 11 and hanging hams. Sample fino
Tel 954 50 55 99 A classic establishment with from the barrel and excellent
Set inside the 19th-century Hotel tables overlooking Jardines de tortillas (potato omelettes).
Gran Melia Colon, with bull- Murillo. Try the paellas or gambas
fighting memorabilia and a varied al ajillo (shrimp cooked in oil with Corral del Agua €€
menu. Try the cola de toro (oxtail) garlic and chilli peppers). Traditional Map 6 D5
in eight different ways. Callejón del Agua 6, 41004
La Albahaca €€ Tel 954 22 48 41 Closed Sun
El Cabildo €€ Fine Dining Map 6 E4 Cool patio dining and two air-
Traditional Map 5 C4 Plaza de Santa Cruz 12, 41004 conditioned dining rooms with
Plaza del Cabildo, 41001 Tel 954 22 07 14 vibrant decor featuring antiques
Tel 954 22 79 70 Stately 1920s mansion filled with and paintings, close to the Real
Atmospheric restaurant with antique furniture and located Alcázar gardens. Try the lubina en
Arabic-style furnishings, serving beside an intimate square. Quality jerez (sea bass cooked in sherry).
traditional Andalusian dishes such French-Basque specialities include
as pescaito frito (fried fish platter). sea bass with plum and raisins. Don Raimundo €€
Historic Map 6 D4
C/ Argote del Molino 26, 41004
Tel 954 22 33 55
A converted 17th-century
convent with stone walls, vivid
tiles and elegant chandeliers.
Dig into delicious perdiz con arroz
(partridge with rice) and jabali al
horno (oven-cooked wild boar).
Doña Elvira €€
Regional Map 6 D5
Plaza de Doña Elvira 6, 41004
Tel 954 29 36 98
With links to the Don Juan legend,
this traditional Sevillian restaurant
offers dining indoors or al fresco
under shady trees. Serves excellent
gazpachos, paellas and frituras de
Spacious dining area at Casa Robles, Seville pescado (mixed fried fish).
Espacio Eslava €€
Innovative twists to regional Seafood/Regional Map 1 C4
favourites will delight, such as C/ Eslava 3, 41002
trigo cremoso con boletus y aceite Tel 954 90 65 68 Closed Sun eve,
de trufa (creamy bulghur risotto Mon
with boletus mushrooms and A no-frills, popular restaurant
truffle oil), but make sure you featuring creative Andalusian
leave room for the fabulous cuisine. Great seafood and salads,
home-made desserts. and an inventive choice of tapas.
Casa Robles €€ Triana

Seafood Map 6 D4 Cervecería la Gamba Blanca €
C/ Álvarez Quintero 58, 41004 Traditional Map 3 A3
Tel 954 21 31 50 C/ Febo 20, 41010
Prize-winning restaurant adorned Tel 954 28 29 40 Closed Sun eve
with statues and coloured tiles. This tapas bar with traditional
Great fish and shellfish selection, decor serves several seafood
A rich selection of tapas on offer at fusion plus an impressive wine list. specialities, as well as meat,
restaurant Oriza, Seville cheese and vegetable dishes.
Egaña Santo €€
El Giraldillo €€ Fusion Map 6 D4 El Faro de Triana €
Traditional Map 6 D4 C/ Argote de Molino 29, 41004 Seafood Map 5 A4
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes 2, 41004 Tel 954 21 28 73 Closed Sun eve, Tue Puente de Isabel II (Puente de Triana),
Tel 954 21 45 25 Creative dishes such as glazed 41010
Renowned eating spot close Iberian pork with sesame sauce Tel 954 33 61 92
to the Giralda, serving traditional are served in stylish surrounds. Try Striking yellow-ochre walled
Andalusian dishes such as rabo the food and wine pairing menu. restaurant with two dining terraces
de toro (braised bull’s tail) and overlooking the river, serving
tortilla de camarón (shrimp San Fernando €€€ quality seafood at a great location.
fritter). Good service. Fine Dining Map 6 D5
C/ San Fernando 2, 41004 Vega 10 €
Oriza €€ Tel 954 91 70 44 Market-to-Table Map 3 B3
Fusion Map 3 C3 A first-rate restaurant inside C/ Rosario Vega 10, 41011
C/ San Fernando 41, 41004 the Alfonso XIII Hotel. Try the Tel 954 23 77 48 Closed Sun
Tel 954 22 72 54 marinated king prawn and quail Offering a seasonal menu of
Avant-garde cuisine based on salad or go for the solomillo creative dishes made with fresh
the best products and local (beef ) Wellington. ingredients, this friendly, modern
flavours, set in an early 20th- restaurant also serves up a daily-
century mansion. Sample the changing tapas menu.
superb bacalao (salted cod) and La Macarena
merluza (hake). Also on offer are Contenedor €€ Abades Triana €€€
great meat dishes and desserts. Market-to-Table Map 2 E4 Seafood Map 3 B3
C/ San Luis 50, 41003 C/ Betis 69, 41010
San Marco €€ Tel 954 91 63 33 Closed lunch Mon– Tel 954 28 64 59
Italian Map 6 E4 Thu Enjoy superb international
Mesón del Moro 6, 41004 Top-value eating spot serving and Mediterranean cuisine at
Tel 954 21 43 90 traditional dishes using fresh this riverside eating spot with
A uniquely atmospheric market produce. Good service. stunning views.
restaurant located in the old
Arab Baths. Come here for first-
rate Italian pasta dishes. One of
four branches in the city.
Santa Cruz €€
Traditional Map 6 E4
Plaza de los Venerables 5, 41004
Tel 954 22 35 83
A spacious mansion with
colonnaded interiors and an
open terrace. Specialities include
the rabo de toro (braised bull’s
tail) and a wide range of seafood.
DK Choice
Vineria San Telmo €€
Fusion Map 6 E4
Paseo Catalina de Ribera 4, 41004
Tel 954 41 06 00
A charming establishment with
tables on a pleasant square.
Elegant place settings at Taberna del Alabardero, Seville
For more information on types of restaurants see p221
www.ebook3000.com
Unpretentious with generous

Huelva and Sevilla portions and unbeatable prices.
ALJARAQUE: La Plazuela
Restaurante € CARMONA: Goya €
Seafood Map A3 Traditional Map B2
Calle de la Fuente 40, 21110 C/ PrIm 2, 41410
Tel 959 31 88 31 Closed Sun Tel 954 14 30 60
Sample fresh fish and seafood Unassuming Sevillian eating spot
from the Atlantic coast, choice off the city’s main square. Try the
meats and a variety of fresh baked lamb. The tapas bar does
home-made breads. good tortillas.
ALMONTE: El Tamborilero € CARMONA: El Ruedo €

Market-to-Table Map B3 Traditional Map B2
C/ Unamuno 15, 21730 C/ Pastora Pavon 22, 41410
Tel 959 40 69 55 Closed Sun; 1–15 Tel 954 19 00 78
Jul This family-run restaurant serves
An atmospheric former bodega traditional dishes with a twist. Try
(wine cellar) with traditional setas con jamón a la plancha
decor and a chef who invites you (grilled wild mushrooms and
into the kitchen to choose from Serrano ham). Appetizing tapas at El Molino de la Romera,
their selections of the day. Carmona
CARMONA: El Molino de
la Romera €€ GERENA: Casa Salvi Tapas €
DK Choice Historic Map B2 Regional/Fusion Map B2
ALMONTE: Aires de Doñana C/ Sor Angela de la Cruz 8, 41410 Miguel de Cervantes 46, 41860
(La Choza del Rocío) €€ Tel 954 14 20 00 Closed Mon Tel 955 78 32 72
Regional Map B3 Converted from a 16th-century Choose from a vast selection of
Avda de la Canaliega 1, 21730 Moorish mill and granary, this tapas and raciones and enjoy
Tel 959 44 22 89 evocative restaurant specializes your meal in the shady plaza or
A converted choza (large in delicious regional dishes. one of the charming dining
thatched hut), this beautifully rooms. Superb value.
decorated restaurant enjoys CARMONA: Parador Alcazar
splendid terrace views across del Rey Don Pedro €€ HUELVA: Las Meigas €€
the Doñana parkland’s woods, Regional Map B2 Seafood Map A3
reeds and waterways. Specialities C/ del Alcazar s/n, 41410 Avda Guatemala 44, 21003
served here include revuelto Tel 954 14 10 10 Tel 959 27 19 58 Closed Sun
marismeño (scrambled eggs Chic parador restaurant with a Top-notch restaurant serving
with local herbs) and cabrito vaulted, antique-furnished dining fresh Atlantic seafood. Try the
lechal (suckling kid). room. First-rate regional dishes scrumptious pulpo a la gallega
made with fresh market produce. con cachelos (Galician-style
octopus with sliced potato).
BORMUJOS: La Choza EL ROCÍO: Restaurante
de Manuela € Toruño € HUELVA: El Portichuelo €€
Grill Map B2 Regional Map B3 Regional Map A3
Calle Menendez Pidal 2, 41930 Plaza Acebuchal 22, 21750 C/ Vázquez López 15, 21001
Tel 959 72 60 92 Closed Mon Tel 959 44 24 22 Tel 959 24 57 68
A complex of thatched-roof Inviting restaurant with terrace Unpretentious and centrally
huts and terraces, this is a boasting excellent views. Try the located, El Portichuelo dishes out
charming place to come for berenjenas gratinadas (aubergine traditional Andalusian fare made
excellent grilled meats and fish. gratin), or one of the rice dishes. from the freshest market produce.
Warm and friendly service.
HUELVA: Terranova €€
Traditional Map A3
C/ San Sebastian 19, 21004
Tel 959 26 15 07
Impeccably prepared seafood,
fish, meat and vegetables with
innovative twists. Try the award-
winning tapa bacalao al ajo
confitado (salted cod with garlic
confit), but leave room for the
tantalizing home-made desserts.
ISLA CRISTINA: Casa Rufino €€

Seafood Map A3
Avda de la Playa 21, 21410
Tel 959 33 08 10 Closed Jan
A beachside haven for seafood
lovers, serving a variety of fresh
fish. Try the rape en salsa de pasas
Bright and inviting dining room at El Tamborilero, Almonte (angler fish in raisin sauce).
JABUGO: Meson Cinco Jotas €€

Traditional Map A2
Crta San Juan del Puerto, 21290
Tel 959 12 10 71
Unpretentious eating joint in
the birthplace of Spain’s greatest
jamón (ham). Sample the home-
cured jabugo and cod with
prawns and olives.
LA RINCONADA: El Pela €
Traditional Map B2
Plaza de Rodriguez Montes 2, 41300
Tel 954 79 77 03 Closed Wed
Simple, no-frills Sevillian
restaurant where breakfast is
served with delicious pan prieto de
la Algaba (local speciality bread).
Warm and friendly service.
Landscape paintings decorating the walls of the dining room at Casa Juanito, Baeza
MATALASCAÑAS: Los Pepes €€
Seafood Map A3 con habas (young goat with CÓRDOBA: Taberna Sociedad
Sector N Parcela 43, Paseo Marítimo broad beans). Fabulous home- de Plateros €
de Matalascañas made desserts. Traditional Map C2
Tel 959 44 10 64 C/ María Auxiliadora 25, 14002
Large sunny chiringuito (stall) with Tel 957 47 03 04
a beachside terrace. Try the lubina DK Choice Iconic 1930s establishment
a la sal (sea bass baked in salt) and BAEZA: El Sarmiento €€ frequented by celebrities. Try
langosta (fresh lobster), or one of Regional Map E2 the revuelto (scrambled eggs).
the first-rate guisos (stews). Plaza del Arcediano 10, 23440
Tel 953 74 03 23 CÓRDOBA: La Almudaina €€
OSUNA: El Mesón del Duque € Tucked away between the Traditional Map C2
Regional Map C3 cathedral and old city wall, this Campo Santo de los Mártires 1, 14004
Plaza de la Duquesa 1, 41640 charming restaurant offers both Tel 957 47 43 42 Closed Sun eve
Tel 954 81 28 45 Closed Wed, second indoor and outdoor dining Excellent restaurant in a former
week in May with abundant plates of fresh bishop’s palace. Traditional dishes
A fine traditional eating spot with vegetables and a good variety include salmorejo (chilled tomato
a terrace, offering Andalusian of meats. Try the pincho de and bread soup) and solomillo al
specialities. Tapas include home- lechazo a la brasa (grilled foie (pork sirloin with paté).
made albóndigas (meatballs). skewers of suckling lamb).
CÓRDOBA: Caballo Rojo €€
OSUNA: Doña Guadalupe €€ Fine Dining Map C2
Regional Map C3 BAILÉN: Zodiaco Libra €€ C/ Cardenal Herrero 28, 14003
Plaza de Guadalupe 6-8, 41640 Traditional Map D2 Tel 957 47 53 75
Tel 954 81 05 58 Closed Sun eve, Carretera Nailén-Motril km 294, Charming eating place with a
Mon, 1–15 Aug 23710 dining courtyard right next to
Family-run restaurant with Tel 953 67 10 58 the Mezquita. Discover Basque-,
outdoor terrace dining. Sample A popular restaurant that serves Moorish- and Sephardic-
classic regional fare such as cold summer soups on a lovely influenced dishes such as cordero
perdíz con arroz (partridge garden terrace. Great shrimp and con miel (lamb with honey) and
cooked with rice). asparagus revuelto (scrambled the delicious monkfish mozarábe.
egg) dishes.
PALOS DE LA FRONTERA: CÓRDOBA:
El Bodegón € CAZORLA: Meson Leandro €€ Casa Pepe de la Judería €€
Traditional Map A3 Traditional Map E2 Regional Map C2
C/ Rábida 46, 21810 C/ Hoz 3, 23470 C/ Romero 1, 14003
Tel 959 53 11 05 Closed Tue; Tel 953 72 06 32 Closed Wed & Tel 957 20 07 44 Closed last 2
15–30 Sep 15–30 Jun weekends of May
A homely, eco-conscious Michelin-recommended An enduring favourite since
restaurant with both indoor and restaurant in a lovely Jaén village 1928. Dine in the flower-filled
patio dining options. Bite into the bordering a national park, and patio and savour the traditional
juicy solomillo a la brasa (oak renowned for its carne a la piedra Córdoban pork dish flamenquin.
grilled sirloin steak). (stone-baked meat) dishes.
CÓRDOBA: El Blason €€
CÓRDOBA: La Boqueria € Traditional Map C2
Córdoba and Jaén Market-to-Table Map C2 C/ José Zorrilla 11, 14008
BAEZA: Casa Juanito €€ C/ María la Judia s/n, 14011 Tel 957 48 06 25 Closed Sun
Regional Map E2 Tel 957 40 25 62 Centrally located restaurant
Av del Alcalde Puché Pardo 57, 23440 Gourmet café-restaurant serving with an elegant tiled patio.
Tel 953 74 00 40 market-fresh dishes such as rice Amazing guisos (stews),
A cozy family-run eating place in with lobster, Galician ox and inventive seafood dishes
a beautiful historical town. Olive Jabugo ham. Great wine list and and delectable home-
oil-based dishes include cabrito extensive menu of gin and tonics. made desserts.
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CÓRDOBA: El Churrasco €€ PALMA DEL RÍO: El Refectorio €€ ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €€

Grill Map C2 Historic Map C2 Traditional Map C4
C/ Romero 16, 14003 Avda Pio XII 35, 14700 Avda Agua Marina 5, 11203
Tel 957 29 08 19 Closed Aug; 24 Oct; Tel 957 71 01 83 Tel 956 66 73 79 Closed Mon
24, 25 & 31 Dec Dine in the old rectory of a Traditional restaurant with indoor
Indulge in romantic patio dining converted 15th-century and terrace dining, and live music
under a lemon tree. Enjoy the monastery. Traditional dishes some nights. Dishes include pulpo
charcoal-grilled steaks or one of a include game in winter. Try the gallego (Galician-style octopus).
range of vegetarian dishes. Tapas wild boar cooked in acorn flour.
menu also available. ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA:
ÚBEDA: El Seco € Bar La Carcel €
CÓRDOBA: Regadera €€ Traditional Map E2 Traditional Map B3
Traditional Map C2 C/Corazón de Jesus 8, 23400. C/Dean Espinosa, 18, 11630
Calle de la Cruz de Rastro 2, 14002 Tel 953 79 14 52 Tel 956 70 04 10
Tel 957 10 14 00 Sink into a cosy dining room A very popular restaurant with
Appealingly situated, just steps and savour homely dishes such rustic decor. Ask for the
from the riverfront, Regadera as bacalao al seco (salted cod in aubergine with honey and goat’s
serves excellent food at great cream sauce). Good service. cheese, or try the carne en Pedro
prices. Try the rabo de toro con Ximénez (wine-marinated meat).
espuma de patata (oxtail with
potato foam). DK Choice BENAHAVÍS: Los Abanicos €
ÚBEDA: Parador Regional Map C4
CÓRDOBA: San Miguel Condestable Davalos €€ C/Málaga 15, 28679
Casa El Pisto €€ Historic Map E2 Tel 952 85 51 31 Closed Tue,
Traditional Map C2 Plaza Vázquez de Molina, 23400 Christmas
Plaza San Miguel 1, 14002 Tel 953 75 03 45 Charming village restaurant
Tel 957 47 83 28 Closed Sun One of Úbeda’s finest and most specializing in regional dishes
Sterling family-run eating spot sumptuous spots, this stylish with excellent paletilla de cordero
with tiled floors and traditional restaurant is located in a grand (shoulder of lamb). Popular for
decor. Sample Iberian cured 16th-century parador. Savour Sunday lunches.
meats and pisto (ratatouille). the outstanding cabrito guisado
con piñones (stewed kid with BENAOJÁN: Molino del Santo €€
JAÉN: Antaño € pine nuts) and seasonal game Market-to-Table Map C3
Traditional Map D2 dishes. A wonderful historic Bda Estación s/n, 29370
C/de la Rioja 5, 23009 setting, traditional decor and Tel 952 16 71 51 Closed Dec–Feb
Tel 953 22 46 51 Closed 1 Jan, mouth-watering food. With a great location amidst
25 Dec wooded mountain countryside,
No-frills restaurant with a large this place serves dishes prepared
summer terrace. Try the cazuela with fresh market vegetables and
(fish stew) or bacalao en alioli (cod local chorizo, ham and game.
in garlic and mayonnaise sauce). Cádiz and Málaga Gourmet barbeques in summer.
ALGECIRAS: Montes €
JAÉN: Taberna Don Sancho € Vegetarian/Seafood Map C4 CÁDIZ: Freiduria Cervecería
Traditional Map D2 C/Juan Morrison 27, 11201 Las Flores €
Avda de Andalucía 17, 23005 Tel 956 65 42 07 Seafood Map B4
Tel 953 27 51 21 Popular with locals, this simple Plaza Topete 4, 11001
Friendly restaurant with a restaurant serves a good choice Tel 956 22 61 12
creative take on classic dishes. of dishes. Great sopa de picadillo Simple restaurant specializing
Ask for the delicious cod with (ham, onion and potato broth). in mariscos (shellfish) and fresh
blueberries.
JAÉN: Casa Antonio €€

Modern Map D2
C/Fermin Palma 3, 23008
Tel 953 27 02 62 Closed Sun eve,
Mon, Aug
Chic restaurant with a lovely
terrace serving contemporary
versions of traditional dishes. The
menu changes frequently but
the excellent cochinillo (suckling
pig) features regularly.
JAÉN: Casa Vicente €€

Fine Dining Map D2
C/Cristo Rey 3, 23007
Tel 953 23 22 22 Closed Sun &
Mon eve
Elegant mansion restaurant with
local favourites such as guiso de
cordero (lamb stew) and
pimientos rellenos de mariscos
(shellfish-stuffed peppers). Vibrant interior at El Churrasco, Córdoba
Elegant place settings at Casa Paco, Coín
pescaito frito (fried fish platter) – ESTEPONA: La Alborada € GAUCÍN: La Fructuosa €€

make your choice and see it Seafood Map C4 Moroccan/Spanish Map C4
cooked on the spot. Puerto Deportivo de Estepona, 29680 C/Convento 67, 29480
Tel 952 80 20 47 Closed Wed Tel 617 69 27 84 Closed Mon, Tue,
CÁDIZ: Balandro €€ Stylish and modern marine lunch Wed–Sun
Seafood Map B4 restaurant serving tasty paellas Comfortable Spanish-Moroccan-
Alameda Apodaca 22, 11004 and great pescaito frito style restaurant with ceiling beams
Tel 956 22 09 92 (Andalusian fried fish platter). and an old wine press. Savour the
Set in a converted 18th-century Good selection of desserts. views while sampling the fresh
mansion overlooking the Bay of goat’s cheese and honey.
Cádiz, this place offers excellent FUENGIROLA: Moochers
boned and grilled gilthead and a Jazz Café € GIBRALTAR: The Waterfront €€
good selection of meat dishes. Crèpes Map C4 Bistro Map C4
C/la Cruz 17, 39640 Queensway Quay, Marina Bay
CÁDIZ: El Faro €€ Tel 952 47 71 54 Tel 350 20 04 56 66 Closed Good Fri;
Seafood Map B4 A warm and lively restaurant with 25, 26, 31 Dec; 1 Jan
C/San Felix 15, 11011 soft, candlelit interiors and live A charming waterside eating
Tel 956 21 10 68 music in the evening. Moochers spot with idyllic sunset views.
Atmospheric seafood restaurant specializes in vegetarian crèpes Sink your teeth into the amazing
in the port district. Do not miss but seafood and chicken are also Cajun chicken, T-bone steaks
the tortillitas de camarones served. Rooftop dining in summer. and grilled sea bass. Also serves
(shrimp fritters), or try one of the good vegetarian choices.
various taster menus available. FUENGIROLA: Vegetalia €
Vegetarian Map C4 GIBRALTAR: Rib Room €€€
CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato €€ C/Santa Isabel 8, Los Boliches 29640 Fine Dining Map C4
Seafood Map B4 Tel 952 58 60 31 Closed Sun, Rock Hotel, 3 Europa Road
Via Augusta Julia, 11011 Jul–Aug Tel 350 20 07 30 00
Tel 956 25 00 25 Closed Sun eve Finnish-owned vegetarian Iconic restaurant in one of
(except in Aug) restaurant with an excellent Gibraltar’s most distinguished
Lovely 18th-century seaside inn lunchtime buffet. Indulge in hotels, serving delicious modern
specializing in local fresh fish. Try delicious home-made desserts. British cuisine with Iberian and
the pasta negra fresca y frutos del Moroccan influences.
mar (black pasta with seafood).
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA: Reino
CASARES: Venta Garcia € de Leon Gastrobar €
Traditional Map C4 Fusion Map B3
Crta. de Casares (MA 546) km 7, 29690 C/Latorre, 8, 11402
Tel 952 89 41 91 Tel 956 32 29 15
Charming restaurant set in a Chic modern restaurant with
scenic white roadside villa that interesting choices such as chupa-
offers great terrace views. The chups cremoso de cheddar con
scallops are delicious and so is regaliz (creamy cheddar lollipops
the guiso de pescado (fish stew). with liquorice). Finish with one of
the inventive gin and tonics.
COÍN: Casa Paco €€
Traditional Map C3 JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA:
C/Maria Moreno 2, 29100 Bar Juanito €€
Tel 952 45 03 49 Closed Mon eve, Traditional Map B3
Tue C/Pascaderia Vieja 8, 11403
Large country inn with a range of Tel 956 33 48 38 Closed Sun
menus. Try the boquerones (fresh Atmospheric tapas bar and
anchovies) and feast on langostinos restaurant serving exceptionally
(king prawns) and rice dishes. Original wine press at La Fructuosa large portions of tapas; be sure to
Popular for wedding receptions. restaurant, Gaucín try the local artichokes.
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Diners enjoying the seaview at Garum, Marbella
LA LINEA: La Marina €€ such as parmesan rice and tasty

Seafood Map C4 DK Choice pigeon, plus innovative tapas.
Paseo Maritímo, La Atunara s/n, 11300 MÁLAGA: El Tintero €
Tel 956 17 15 31 Closed Mon; 24, Seafood Map D3 MANILVA: Macues €€
31 Dec Playa del Dedo s/n (El Palo), 29018 Seafood Map C4
Large seaside restaurant with Tel 952 20 68 26 Plaza Delfín s/n, Puerto Deportivo de
nautical decor. Enjoy great bay Undoubtedly the noisiest la Duquesa
views while savouring delicious restaurant on the Costa del Tel 952 89 03 95 Closed Mon, Sat
chirlas marinera (clams). Sol. However, the beachside lunch
location, sweeping views Stylish place serving dorada a la
LOS BARRIOS: Mesón El Copo €€ across the bay and magnificent sal (bream baked in salt) – a
Seafood Map C4 choice of fish dishes make El regular favourite – and charcoal-
Calle La Almadraba 2 (Palmones), Tintero a must. Go for the grilled grilled steaks for meat lovers.
11369 salmonetes (red mullet) or rape
Tel 956 67 77 10 Closed Sun (angler fish) in a rich garlic sauce. MARBELLA: Altamirano €
First-rate beachside restaurant Great value for money. Seafood Map C4
serving fresh local urta (sea Plaza Altamirano 3, 29600
bream) and gallineta (Atlantic red Tel 952 82 49 32 Closed Wed; 8 Jan–
fish). Great home-made desserts. MÁLAGA: Mesón Astorga € 15 Feb
Traditional Map D3 Good value family-friendly option
MÁLAGA: C/Gerona 11, 29006 with a garden. Specialities
Antigua Casa de la Guardia € Tel 952 34 25 63 Closed Sun include fritura malagueña (fried
Historic Map D3 Go to Mesón Astorga for almejas fish platter) and besugo a la brasa
Alameda Principal 18, 29015 (clams) and boqueroncitos (baby (barbecued sea bream).
Tel 952 21 46 80 Closed Sun (except anchovies), and try the fried
Holy Week, Feria & Dec) aubergine with sugar cane honey. MARBELLA: Garum €€
One of Málaga’s oldest and Fusion Map C4
most atmospheric wine cellar MÁLAGA: Avda de la Fontanilla, 29602
bars. Their speciality tipple is Mesón Cortijo de Pepe € Tel 952 85 88 58
dark, rich Pedro Ximénez wine Traditional Map D3 Finnish-run restaurant with an
served directly from the barrel. Plaza de la Merced 2, 29012 enclosed beachside terrace. Try
Tel 952 22 40 71 Closed Tue tasty pumpkin, albóndigas (meat-
Popular tapas bar that serves balls), smoked lamb and steaks.
succulent calamares romana
(squid fried in batter) and gambas MARBELLA: Santiago €€
a la plancha (grilled prawns). Seafood Map C4
Avda Duque de Ahamada 5, 29602
MÁLAGA: Parador Gibralfaro €€ Tel 952 77 00 78
Regional Map D3 Great seafood institution dishing
Camino de Gibralfaro s/n, 29006 out almejas (clams), lubina (sea
Tel 952 22 19 02 bass) and a variety of paellas.
Elegant restaurant in Málaga’s Good tapas selection at the bar.
spectacular hilltop parador,
serving traditional fare such as MARBELLA: El Portalon €€€
zoque and gazpachelo (standard Traditional Map C4
and fish versions of gazpacho). Crta de Cádiz km 178, 29600
Tel 952 82 72 80 Closed Sun
MÁLAGA: Café de Paris €€€ Traditional restaurant that serves
Fusion Map D3 delicious lubina con verduras frescas
C/Velez Málaga s/n, 29016 (sea bass with fresh vegetables)
Tel 952 22 50 43 Closed Sun, Mon and lechona al horno de leña
The elegant Parador Gibralfaro Stylish restaurant serving modern (suckling pig baked in a
restaurant, Málaga Spanish-Mediterranean dishes woodfired oven).
MARBELLA: Skina €€€ RONDA: Tragatapas €

Fusion Map C4 Modern Map C3
C/Aduar 12, 29601 Calle Nueva 4, 29400
Tel 952 76 52 77 Closed Sun, Mon, Tel 952 87 72 09
9–15 Dec, 7 Jan–3 Feb Cosy and unassuming, Tragatapas
Chic, intimate, old-town offers inventive tapas such as goat’s
restaurant with an eclectic mix of cheese and asparagus, marinated
dishes from rabbit terrine to sole salmon and sautéed mushrooms.
with artichokes and tomato.
RONDA: Casa Escudero €€
MIJAS: El Mirlo Blanco €€ Traditional Map C3
Traditional Map C3 Paseo de Blas Infante 1, 29400
Cuesta de la Villa 13, 29650 Tel 952 87 13 67 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel 952 48 57 00 Closed Tue, 11 Jan– Smart restaurant in a converted
11 Feb 19th-century villa. Traditional
Established Basque restaurant offerings include grilled trout
serving dishes such as txangurro and chuletas de cerdo
(stuffed spider crab) and kokotxas (pork cutlets).
de bacalao pil pil (cod cheeks in
hot garlic, chilli and olive oil). RONDA: Pedro Romero €€
Traditional Map C3 Subtle lighting at Tragabuches, Ronda
NERJA: Restaurante Jacky €€ C/Virgen de la Paz 18, 29400
International Map D3 Tel 952 87 11 10 SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA:
C/Chaparil 6 (Edificio Corona), 29780 Named after a 17th-century Casa Bigote €€
Tel 952 52 11 38 matador, this restaurant serves Seafood Map B3
Intimate, quality restaurant offering excellent rabo de toro (braised C/Pórtico Bajo de Guia 10, 11540
French and Mediterranean cuisine. oxtail) and perdiz con alubias Tel 956 36 26 96 Closed Sun
Excellent menu de degustación, or (partridge with kidney beans). Set beside the Guadalquivir
try the quail stuffed with foie gras. estuary, this traditional restaurant
RONDA: Tragabuches €€€ serves fresh seafood and regional
PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA: Fine Dining Map C3 hams. Exceptional lomo de atún
Casa Flores €€ C/Jose Aparicio 1, 29400 (tuna steak) and king prawns.
Seafood Map B3 Tel 952 19 02 91 Closed Sun eve
Ribera del Rio 9, 11500 & Mon TARIFA: Arte-Vida €€
Tel 956 54 35 12 Try the chef’s supreme ajo blanco Seafood Map B4
Excellent langostinos (king prawns), (cold summer almond and garlic Crta Cádiz-Málaga (N 340) km. 79.3,
percebes (goose barnacles) and soup) at this Michelin-starred 11380
dorada (gilthead bream) at this restaurant. There is a scintillating Tel 956 68 52 46
family-run establishment. menu de degustación on offer; Chic restaurant with views across
impeccable service. the straits. Specializes in fresh
PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA: seafood, salads and pizzas. The
El Faro de El Puerto €€ SAN FERNANDO: café serves great coffee and cakes.
Seafood Map B3 Venta de Vargas €€
Avda de Fuentebravia km 0.5, 11500 Traditional Map B4 TARIFA: Meson de Sancho €€
Tel 956 87 09 52 Closed Sun eve Plaza Juan Vargas s/n, 11100 Traditional Map B4
(except Aug) Tel 956 88 16 22
Crta Cádiz-Málaga (N 340) km 94,
Refined family-run restaurant set Former haunt of flamenco icon
11380
in lush gardens serving delicious Cameron de la Isla. The menu
Tel 956 68 81 27
lomo de pargo con berenjenas (red here includes chocos de la bahia
snapper with aubergine). (cuttlefish from the bay). Live Homely Andalusian inn serving
Extensive choice of wines. flamenco every now and then. first-rate dishes. Order the sea
bream cooked in cognac or the
pierna de cordero (leg of lamb).
DK Choice
TORREMOLINOS:
Nuevo Lanjarón €
Traditional Map D3
C/Europa 10, 29620
Tel 952 38 87 74 Closed Mon
This long-established family-run
place is probably the best value
restaurant on the Costa del Sol.
Choose from a variety of
inexpensive set menus that
include fish and meat dishes.
Try the exquisite estofado de
ternera (veal stew) or the
generous fritura malagueña
(fried fish platter), followed by
home-made flan. Good service.
The well-stocked wine cellar at El Faro de El Puerto, Puerto de Santa María
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TORREMOLINOS: ALMERÍA:
Yate El Cordobés € Granada and Torreluz Mediterraneo €€
Seafood Map D3 Almería Fusion Map F3
Paseo Maritimo s/n (Bajondillo) 29620 Plaza Flores 1, 04001
Tel 952 38 49 56 ALMERÍA: Rincón de Tel 950 23 43 99 Closed Sun,
Sample local seafood dishes Juan Pedro € Mon eve
ranging from espetos de sardinas Traditional Map F3 Elegant restaurant with creative
(charcoal-cooked fresh sardines) C/Federico Castro 2, 04003 dishes such as squid with
to mero en adobo (grouper with Tel 950 23 58 19 Closed Mon coriander pesto. Leave room for
garlic mayonnaise sauce). A very popular tapas bar, offering the chocolate soufflé with mint
generous portions of pungent sauce and orange compote.
TORREMOLINOS: Casa Juan hams, chorizos and cheeses, as
los Mellizos €€ well as local specialities such as ALMERÍA: Valentin €€
Seafood Map D3 trigo a la cortijera (wheat berry Seafood Map F3
C/San Ginés 20, 29620 and sausage stew). C/Tenor Iribarne 19, 04001
Tel 952 37 35 12 Tel 950 26 44 75 Closed Mon, Sep
Excellent value fish dishes at ALMERÍA: Bodega Bellavista €€ A very popular marisqueria
this family-run establishment. The Regional Map F3 (restaurant specializing in
bouillabaisse and fried sea-food Urbanización Bellavista, Llanos de shellfish) where everything is
platter are popular draws. Alquian, 04130 market fresh.
Tel 950 29 71 56 Closed Sun eve &
TORREMOLINOS: Frutos €€ Mon BUBÍON: Teide €
Traditional Map D3 This charming old-fashioned Traditional Map E3
Avda de la Riviera 80, 29620 restaurant is located close to the C/Carretera s/n,18412
Tel 952 38 15 40 Closed Sun eve airport. It offers classic regional Tel 958 76 30 37 Closed Second
One of the grand old Costa del seafood – shellfish dominates fortnight in Jun
Sol restaurants. Enjoy classic the menu – and meat dishes, Charming stone-built restaurant
dishes such as judiones a la using fresh market produce. with a tree-shaded garden. Serves
Granja (Castilian style white Great wine list. home-cooked food such as migas
beans) and a wide selection of (fried breadcrumbs with garlic)
fresh fish. ALMERÍA: Casa Sevilla €€ and choto asado (roast kid).
Seafood Map F3
VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: C/Rueda López s/n, 04004 CARBONERAS: El Cabo €€
Venta Pinto €€ Tel 950 27 29 12 Closed Sun Seafood Map F3
Seafood Map B4 Sociable family restaurant serving Paseo Marítimo 67, 04140
C/La Barca de Vejer s/n, 11150 fresh seafood. Go for the tempura Tel 950 13 06 24 Closed Mon
Tel 956 45 08 77 de bacalao sobre arroz meloso de Friendly beachside restaurant
Traditional restaurant with hongos (cod tempura on a bed of close to Cabo de Gata National
specialities including perdiz roja creamy mushroom rice). Monthly Park. Try innovative seafood
asada (roasted red partridge) and wine tastings. dishes such as squid stuffed with
rodaballo al homo con alcaparras spinach and pine nuts.
(baked turbot with capers). ALMERÍA: Club de Mar €€
Seafood Map F3 GRANADA: Antigua Bodega
ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES: Casa Playa de Almadrabillas, 1, 04007 Castañeda €
Juanito € Tel 950 23 50 48 Closed Tue Traditional Map E3
Seafood Map B4 Chic restaurant with a lovely C/Elvira 5, 18010
C/Alcalde Ruiz Cana 7, 11393 seafront terrace in Almeria’s Tel 958 21 54 64
Tel 956 43 92 11 Closed Wed prestigious yacht club. Authentic tapas bar with barrels,
Charming restaurant with terrace Renowned for its zarzuela de beams and colourful tiles. Feast
dining. Sample exquisite seafood pescado y marisco (bouillabaise) on Trevélez mountain ham, squid
dishes, such as the excellent local and fritura de pescado (fried fish and sardines, and enjoy a chilled
tuna. Good tapas bar. platter). Excellent service. fino on the side.
Seafood restaurant Casa Juan los Mellizos in Torremolinos

GRANADA: Restaurante
Carmela €
Modern Map E3
Calle Colcha, 13 (Corner of
Pavaneras), 18009
Tel 958 22 57 94
Cheery restaurant serving playful
versions of classic Andalusian
cuisine. Start with croquetas de
morcilla con cebolla caramelizada
(black pudding croquettes with
caramelized onions).
GRANADA: Chikito €€
Regional Map E3
Plaza del Campillo 9, 18009
Tel 958 22 33 64 Closed Wed
Attractive tapas bar-restaurant Charming outdoor seating at the popular Ruta del Veleta, Granada
built on the site of a former
Garcia Lorca haunt. Be brave and GRANADA: Tragalios €€ LOJA: La Finca €€
dig into the tortilla Sacromonte – Modern Map E3 Traditional Map D3
omelette with marrow, brains, Calle San Matias 21, 18009 Hotel La Bobadilla, Ctra Salinas-
herbs and bull’s testicles! Tel 685 19 37 41 Closed 15 Jan–5 Feb Villanueva de Tapia (A-333), km 65.5,
Colourful restaurant with 18300
GRANADA: innovative interpretations of Tel 958 32 18 61 Closed Sun & Mon
Mirador de Mirayma €€ regional fare, including Iberian May–Jul
Traditional Map E3 pork, aged beef, fresh fish and Delicious seafood, meat and
C/Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010 plenty of local produce. vegetable dishes – all made using
Tel 958 22 82 90 Closed Sun eve local ingredients – are served here.
This delightful patio restaurant GRANADA:
inside the Albaicín offers great Carmen del San Miguel €€€ MOTRIL: Tropical €
city views. Try the fresh remojón Traditional Map E3 Regional Map E3
(salad with salted cod, olives and Plaza Torres Bermejas 3, 18009 Avda Rodriguez Acosta 23, 18600.
orange) and salmorejo (soup). Tel 958 22 67 23 Closed Sun eve, Tel 958 60 04 50 Closed Sun, Jun
all day Sun in summer Friendly seaside inn serving
Attractive terrace restaurant classic Andalusian fare. Try the
DK Choice overlooking the Alhambra, lobster and rice stew.
GRANADA: Restaurante serving up traditional dishes made
Damasqueros €€ from fresh market produce. ORGIVA: El Limonero €
Modern Map E3 Traditional Map E3
C/Damasqueros 3 (El Realejo), HUÉRCAL DE ALMERÍA: C/Yanez 27, 18400
18009 Cueva Blanca €€€ Tel 958 78 51 57
Tel 958 21 05 50 Closed Sun eve, Fusion Map F3 Popular joint serving healthy
Mon C/Churre 13, 04240 traditional dishes such as knuckle
An award-winning tapas bar Tel 950 30 51 37 Closed Sun & Mon of lamb and oven baked sea
that serves modern interpre- Cosy cave-restaurant with bream. Fine salads and pastas.
tations of traditional fare. The imaginative dishes such as
rack of lamb with migas (fried salmon en sidra (salmon in cider) ROQUETAS DE MAR:
breadcrumbs), grapes and and setas en salsa de bacon Alejandro €€
melon is a tasty favourite, and (mushrooms in bacon sauce). Seafood/Fusion Map F3
you can’t go wrong with one of Avda Antonio Machado 32, 04740
their risottos or guisos (stews). Tel 950 32 24 08 Closed Sun, Mon
Ultra-smart restaurant
specializing in exquisite seafood
GRANADA: Ruta del Azafrán €€ fusion dishes. Splash out on the
Fusion Map E3 shellfish tasting menu.
Paseo del Padre Manjón 1, 18010
Tel 958 22 68 82 Closed 24 Dec SALOBREÑA: By Larius
A neat, modern restaurant beside Argentina Steakhouse €€
the Darro River serving an eclectic Grill Map E3
range of dishes, including seafood, Paseo de Velilla 9, 18690
vegetarian, Italian and Arabic food. Tel 958 63 93 58 Closed Sun &
Mon lunch
GRANADA: Ruta del Veleta €€ Elegant restaurant right by the
Fusion Map E3 beach offering exquisitely
Crta Sierra Nevada 136, km 5,4. prepared traditional favourites.
Cenes de la Vega, 18190
Tel 958 48 61 34 Closed Sun eve VERA: Terrazza Carmona €€
Popular regional restaurant on Regional Map F3
the old road to Sierra Nevada. C/del Mar 1, 04620
Feast on hearty dishes such Tel 950 39 07 60 Closed Mon
as roast kid, seasonal game and Place settings at upmarket restaurant Award-winning restaurant
good seafood. La Finca, Loja specializing in regional dishes.
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SHOPS AND MARKETS

Shopping in Andalusia is a highly traditional arts and crafts, and there is an
pleasurable business, particularly if you overwhelming choice of ceramics, leather
approach it in a typically Spanish manner. goods, marquetry, jewellery in filigree
Here, shopping fits in with the climate, silver, and sweets and biscuits.
always respects the siesta and is meant to be World-famous wines can be had from
an unhurried, leisurely activity, punctuated the bodegas of Jerez, Montilla, Málaga
with frequent breaks for coffee and tapas. and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. A visit to a
While a number of European chain stores bodega, an experience in itself, is the best
and franchises are beginning to appear all way to become familiar with the variety
over Spain, the towns and villages of the of wines on offer.
south are refreshingly full of shops and Many shops still provide a charming
businesses that are unique to the area. personal service. Although few assistants
The region is renowned for its high-quality, speak English, most are very obliging.
generally take place in January VAT Exemption

and July, though shops may
also sometimes offer pre- Visitors to Spain who come
Christmas discounts or start from countries outside the
their sales in late December. European Union can claim a
16 per cent refund of sales tax
(IVA, pronounced “eeva” in
How to Pay Spanish) on items bought at
It is still customary among large department stores such
Spaniards to pay in cash. as Cortefiel and El Corte
While many shops, especially Inglés. For each item that
the larger stores, now accept you purchase costing more
major credit cards, few take than €90 you need to collect
traveller’s cheques. a form from the store’s
You are entitled to central cash desk.
exchange goods if You should have this
Calle Sierpes, one of the busiest shopping you can produce a stamped both as
streets in Seville receipt, although this you leave Spain and
does not apply to on re-entering your
items bought in a own country. You
When to Shop sale. Large shops then need to
Spanish shops tend to close and department One of several styles of plate return the stamped
during the afternoon siesta stores tend to give made in Seville form to the shop
(except for department stores credit notes rather where the
and touristy souvenir shops in than cash refunds. It is a good purchase was made, which,
the large towns). Most shops idea to check the shop’s policy in turn, will send you a cheque
open at 9:30am and close at with a sales assistant before for 16 per cent of the value
1:30pm. They usually reopen you buy anything. of the articles.
about 4:30pm or 5pm, and stay
open until around 8pm. These
times will obviously vary from
shop to shop; boutiques, for
example, rarely open before
10am. Times also tend to vary
during summer – some shops
close altogether in the
afternoon heat, while others will
stay open later than usual, in
order to take full advantage of
the large numbers of visitors.
Many shops – especially if
they are in small towns – close
on Saturday afternoons. This
practice, however, is now
gradually disappearing. Sales An array of fans at Albanicos Díaz, Calle Sierpes, Seville
SHOPS AND MARKETS 239
images. For the most gone by. Muebles Ceballos,

exquisite baby clothes, situated on the busy Calle de la
head for Larrana and Feria, is one of several shops in
look for Agua de Sevilla the Seville area that specializes
perfumes in El Corte Inglés. in traditionally made
The Supermercado Baco is a wickerwork items.
small grocers stocking gourmet
Spanish food and wines. The Córdoba
Calle Hern-ando Colón has Córdoba presents plenty of
a few curious shops for options for the shopper. Perhaps
collectors of everything the most fascinating shopping
from old children’s toys area is within the old narrow
to stamps, while El streets of the Judería (see p144).
Postigo, in the El Arenal Here the Zoco Municipal runs
area, is an arts and crafts an interesting selection of craft
centre with a good selection workshops making Córdoban
Stylish hats from Sombrerería of handmade items on sale. specialities such as filigree silver
Herederos de J Russi in Córdoba Sevillarte, which is close to jewellery, hand-painted
Real Alcázar (see pp86–7), and ceramics, leather-ware and
Martián sell attractive ceramics wonderful, award-winning
Shopping in Seville for both utility and decoration. painted masks. Ceramics,
Seville is a charming city in For some of Andalusia’s finest leatherware and woodwork can
which to shop, offering the ceramics, head for Triana (see also be found at Artesanos
buyer a unique concoction of p106). Look out Cordobeses. The
old-style regional crafts and in particular for area surrounding
good modern design. Cerámica Santa the Mezquita (see
The district that surrounds Ana, Antonio p148) is packed
Calle Tetuán and the pedes- Campos and the with souvenir
trianized Calle Sierpes (see p78) many small workshops, which
is the place to visit for the best shops along the apart from the
of Seville’s old and new shops. Calle Covadonga. expected tourist
This is a smart area of bustling Triana is also a trinkets, sell a
streets, where you will find an good area for range of fine
eclectic range of goods. purchasing Colourful, hand painted tiles at handicrafts. Of
For stylish, fashion-forward flamboyant Cerámica Santa Ana these, Meryan
attire for the whole family, flamenco outfits, specializes
head to Massimo Dutti. Stylish while at Juan Osete you can in embossed leather goods.
Loewe makes exquisite luggage buy a marvellous range of At the guitar workshop of
and leather bags, clothes and feria accessories. Manuel Reyes Maldonado
accessories in striking colours, Anyone who claims to be a you can purchase highest
while Purificación Garcia sells serious collector of antiques quality, custom-built guitars,
chic clothes. must make a point of calling at many of which end up in the
The streets around the Plaza Antigüedades Angel Luis hands of internationally
Nueva are full of shops such as Friazza, which specializes in renowned musicians.
Nuria Cobo, Paco Rodriguez classic Spanish furniture. One of the most celebrated
and Adolfo Domínguez, selling At FÉLIX you can hat-makers in the whole of Spain
stylish, tailored clothes and find historical posters is the Sombrerería Herederos
shoes; and quaint shops that sell from spring festivals de J Russi. You can purchase a
religious objects. Ornate earrings, and bullfights typical, flat-topped córdobes
colourful headpieces and other of years hat here for a great deal less
one-of-a-kind acces-sories can than the price that would
be found in Naif Tocados. For be asked in Madrid
typically Anda-lusian items, such or Seville.
as elaborate fans, go to
Albanicos Diaz; for top-quality
cordobés hats to Maquedano
and for hand-embroidered
shawls, to Juan Foronda.
Around the Barrio de Santa
Cruz is a range of interesting
shops. Among these are Casa
Rodríguez and Velasco, which
specialize in trimmings for
church robes and religious Manuel Reyes Maldonado in his guitar workshop in Córdoba
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Andalusia
In Andalusia people frequently
make special trips to towns
famed for one particular item,
such as olive oil, wine, rugs or
furniture. If you have time to
explore, the whole region offers
countless local, handmade
specialities.
Marquetry in the making in a The finest virgin olive oils
Granada workshop come from Baena (see p151) and
Segura de la Sierra (see p160).
Granada Some of the best olive oil in
The characteristically cold winters Sevilla province is sold in the
ensure that shops in Granada village of Ginés. Many Fruit and vegetable market in
keep a good range of winter monasteries make and sell their Vélez Blanco (see p205)
clothes and shoes. Julio Callejón own sweets and biscuits, which
has an original collection of shoes, can be an unusual gift. locally grown medicinal herbs.
Zara stocks both menswear and There are several bodegas Just north of Granada, in the
womenswear, and Cortefiel is a which are worth a visit, namely small village of Jún, Cerámica
quality department store those in Jerez (see p166), in Miguel Ruiz collects and sells
specialising in clothing. Sanlúcar de Barrameda (see some of the finest ceramics
With the Sierra p166), in Montilla (see made all over Andalusia.
Nevada close p151) and in Málaga Exquisite hand-embroidered
by, skiwear town (see p184). shawls are sold by Ángeles
is sold in some Botijos – spouted Espinar in Villamanrique de
department ceramic drinking Condesa, outside Seville.
stores as well as jugs – are a local
specialist shops. speciality of the
The city centre is town of La Rambla, Markets
full of surprises, 30 km (19 miles) The markets held in most
among them the Basketware from Alhama south of Córdoba. In Andalusian towns offer a
Mercado Árabe, a de Granada Córdoba province, wonderful opportunity to try
long gallery packed Lucena (see p151) is a local food specialities, including
with shops that sell Moroccan- good place to buy ceramics and a wide range of sausages,
inspired clothing and wrought ironwork. cheeses and cured ham.
accessories. Artesanía Beas Ronda (see p180) has a few Most markets tend to sell a
specializes in marquetry, while shops selling rustic-style little of everything. However,
Mantillas Granada offers fine furniture. In Guarromán in Jaén Seville does have a few
handmade lace mantillas. province, antique furniture is specialized markets. These
Tienda La Victoria has a sold at Trastos Viejos, which is include an antiques and bric-a-
superb selection of old prints, an old cortijo (farmhouse). brac market, which is held in
curios and furniture; and in In Granada province, the Calle Feria on Thursdays.
the streets around the Gran villages of Las Alpujarras (see On Sundays, Los Pájaros pet
Vía are some grand platerías – p204) are famous for jarapas, market takes place in Plaza del
smart shops selling silverware. (rag rugs), basketwork and Alfalfa, and stamps and coins
are traded at Plaza del Cabildo.
All manner of bric-a-brac are
sold on Charco de la Pava in La
Cartuja, and a bigger rastro (flea
market) is held in the Parque
Alcosa, northeast of the centre.
The food markets in Plaza de la
Encarnación and El Arenal are
both very good.
Córdoba has an absorbing
flea market on Saturdays and
Sundays at the 16th-century
arcaded Plaza de la Corredera.
On the Costa del Sol, bric-a-
brac markets and car boot sales
are popular. The best are held on
Tuesday and Saturday mornings
Pottery stall at the Plaza de la Corredera market in Córdoba at Fuengirola fairground.
DIRECTORY
Seville SHOES Sevillarte Granada
Calle Vida 13. Map 3 C2
DEPARTMENT Nuria Cobo FASHION, SHOES
(6 D5). Tel 954 21 03 91.
STORES C/Méndez Núňez esq, AND ACCESSORIES
∑ sevillarte.com
Rosario 16.
El Corte Inglés Map 3 B1 (5 C3). FÉLIX Adolfo Domínguez
Pl Duque de la Tel 954 21 13 24. Avda de la Constitución, Calle Alhóndiga 33.
Victoria 10. ∑ nuriacobo.com 26 Sevilla, 41001. Tel 958 25 27 85.
Map 1 C5 (5 C2). Paco Rodríguez Map 3 C2 (5 C4). Cortefiel
Tel 954 59 70 00. C/Tetuán 5–7. Tel 954 21 80 26.
Gran Vía de Colón 1.
∑ elcorteingles.es Map 3 C1 (5 C3). ART AND ANTIQUES Tel 958 22 35 47.
Tel 954 21 66 06. ∑ cortefiel.es
FASHION AND Antigüedades Angel
ACCESSORIES FLAMENCO Luis Friazza Julio Callejón
Albanicos Díaz Calle Zaragoza 48. Calle Mesones 36.
Adolfo Domínguez Map 3 B1 (5 B3).
Pl Duque de la Victoria 8. Calle Sierpes 71. Tel 958 25 87 74.
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Tel 954 22 35 67. ∑ juliocallejon.com
Map 1 C5 (5 C2).
Tel 608 11 08 90. Tel 954 22 81 02. FOOD AND WINE
Tienda La Victoria
∑ adolfodominguez. Calzados Mayo Hornos San Bernado C/Alhondiga 6.
com Plaza de la Alfalfa 2. Avda Menéndez Pelayo 8. Tel 958 25 81 60.
Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Map 4 D2 (6 E5).
El Caballo Tel 954 22 55 55. Zara
Tel 954 41 90 53.
Calle Antonia Diaz 7. Calle Recogidas 10–12.
Map 3 B2 (5 C4). Juan Foronda Hornos de San Tel 958 25 25 04.
Tel 955 12 55 02. Calle Sierpes 79. Buenaventura
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Calle Carlos Cañal 28. ARTS AND CRAFTS
∑ elcaballo.com
Tel 954 21 40 50. Map 3 B1 (5 B3).
Loewe ∑ juanforonda.com
Artesanía Beas
Tel 954 22 33 72. Calle de Santa Rosalía 20.
Plaza Nueva 12.
Juan Osete Supermercado Baco Tel 958 81 37 58.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Calle de Castilla 10. Calle Cuna 2.
Tel 954 22 52 53. Map 3 A1. Mantillas Granada
Map 3 C1 (6 D2).
∑ loewe.com Tel 954 34 33 31. Carretera de Murcia 120,
Tel 954 21 13 13.
Albaicín.
Maquedano RELIGIOUS OBJECTS El Torno Tel 958 27 13 28.
Calle Sierpes 40. Plaza del Cabildo s/n.
Casa Rodríguez Mercado Árabe
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
Calle Francos 35. La Alcaicería.
Tel 954 56 47 71. Tel 954 21 91 90.
Map 3 C1 (6 D3).
∑ maquedano.com Tel 954 22 78 42. ANTIQUES AND
Massimo Dutti
Córdoba GIFTS
Velasco
Velazquez 12. Calle Chapineros 4 Antigüedades
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). FASHION
(off Calle Francos). Gonzalo Reyes
Tel 954 56 30 36. Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Mango Calle Mesones 1.
∑ massimodutti.com Tel 954 21 83 38. Avda Gran Capitán 14–16. Tel 958 52 33 27.
Tel 957 48 53 54.
Naif Tocados ARTS AND CRAFTS FOOD AND WINE
∑ mango.com
Calle San Eloy 27. Antonio Campos
ARTS AND CRAFTS Tarta y Arte
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). C/Alfarería 22, Triana. Puentezuelas 6.
Tel 677 78 20 67. Map 3 A2. Artesanos Tel 958 99 11 93.
Purificación García Tel 651 88 19 20. Cordobeses
Calle Judios, s/n (Zoco). Andalusia
Plaza Nueva 8. Cerámica Santa Ana
Tel 957 20 40 33.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Calle San Jorge 31, Triana.
Tel 954 50 11 29. Map 3 A2 (5 A4). Manuel Reyes Ángeles Espinar
∑ purificaciongarcia. Tel 954 33 39 90. Maldonado Calle Pascual Márquez 8,
com Calle Armas 6. Villamanrique de Condesa,
Martián
Tel 957 47 91 16. Sevilla. Tel 955 75 56 20
Zara Calle Sierpes 74.
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Meryan (call ahead).
Calle José de Velilla 2–4.
Tel 954 21 34 13. Calleja de las Flores 2. Antigüedades
Map 3 B1 (5 C2).
Tel 957 47 59 02. Trastos Viejos
Tel 954 56 00 96. Muebles Ceballos
∑ zara.es Calle Feria 49 Sombrerería Autovía E5 km 280, Aldea
(near Calle de Relator). Herederos de J Russi de los Rios 1, Guarromán,
CHILDREN’S Map 2 D4. Calle Conde de Cárdenas Jaén. Tel 953 61 51 26.
CLOTHES Tel 954 90 17 54. 1, Gondomar 4. Cerámica Miguel Ruiz
Larrana Tel 957 47 79 53.
El Postigo Jiménez S L
Calle Blanca de los Ríos 4. Calle Arfe s/n. Zoco Municipal Camino Viejo de Jún s/n,
Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Map 3 B2 (5 C4). Calle Judíos s/n. Jún, Granada.
Tel 954 21 52 80. Tel 954 56 00 13. Tel 957 29 05 75. Tel 958 41 40 77.
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What to Buy in Andalusia

The strong and vibrant culture of Andalusia is reflected
in the items available in the region’s markets and shops.
Andalusia has a long tradition of arts and crafts, so its
towns and villages produce a surprising range of unique,
often exquisite, handmade goods. Many towns have
specialities; for example, Granada is famous for mar-
quetry and Moorish-style painted ceramics; Seville for
fans and mantillas; Jerez, Montilla and Málaga for their
renowned wines; while Córdoba specializes in filigree
silver, leather work and guitars. Traditional glazed earthenware pots from
Úbeda (see pp158–9) in the province of Jaén
The Ceramics of Andalusia

The rich, terracotta soil of Andalusia has
been utilized for centuries in the creation
of practical and decorative ceramics. The
variety encompasses simple earthenware
cooking dishes (cazuelas), drinking jugs
(botijos), pots (tinajas), decorative painted
tiles (azulejos), and kitchen and tableware.
You can buy them from workshops or,
more cheaply, from local markets.
Ceramic plate painted in traditional colours
Plate from Ronda spattered Bowl from Córdoba in Replicas of 18th-century

in blue and green a traditional design tiles from Triana (see p104)
Leather Goods
Leather goods such as bags and belts can be bought
all over Andalusia. Embossed leather, however, is a
speciality of the city of Córdoba (see pp144–50).
Rugs
Andalusian rug-making skills have
developed over centuries. The most famous Inlaid Boxes
rug-making area is in the Alpujarras (see Marquetry is produced in Granada
pp204–5), where rugs are made in various (see pp194–202). Craftsmen make
fibres, including cotton and wool, and in furniture, boxes, and other items
colour schemes in which earth colours inlaid with ivory and coloured
and blues predominate. woods in Moorish designs.
Handmade Fans
A classic souvenir
from Andalusia, a
fan is useful in
the searing
heat. The most
exclusive are
Castanets wooden, carved and
Castanets, a classic painted by hand.
flamenco musical
instrument, can be bought
in a medley of sizes, made
of wood or plastic.
Guitars
In the land of flamenco,
guitars are a speciality. Mantillas
Workshops in A mantilla is a headdress of lace draped
Córdoba produce over a large and ornate comb which is
top-quality, custom- crafted from tortoiseshell or made in plastic.
made guitars, many
of which are destined
for famous guitarists.
The Flavours of Andalusia

Andalusian gastronomy reflects locally
grown produce. An astonishing range of
olive oils is available, and the region’s grapes
are made into sherry vinegars, as well as
some of Spain’s most distinctive wines (see
p226). Almonds are used to make delicious
sweets, such as turrón, a type of nougat.
Olive oil from the provinces Sherry wine vinegars

of Córdoba and Sevilla produced by sherry bodegas
Herbs and Spices

Almost 800 years of Moorish occupation in
Andalusia left a distinctive mark on the
region’s cuisine. Many dishes are flavoured
with fragrant spices once imported from
the East, such as cumin, coriander, paprika,
and strands of saffron. Markets are the best
Yemas, sweets produced by nuns in the place to buy exotic spices and locally grown
Convento de San Leandro (see p81) herbs, which are sold loose by weight.
Saffron threads
Marmalade from the Convento de Pimentón (paprika) Coriander seeds Cumin seeds
Santa Paula (see p94) in Seville
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ENTERTAINMENT
IN ANDALUSIA
In Andalusia there is almost always a lively sporting fixtures. There is also music
buzz in the streets, and activities such as bar- and dance in abundance – Andalusia
hopping and people-watching can provide is, after all, the home of flamenco.
enough entertainment in themselves to fill Given the mild climate, many events
up any spare moment of your holiday. take place out of doors; in summer, when
But there is also plenty more going on. daytime temperatures soar to up to 45°C
Southern Spain boasts a busy programme (113°F), they do not start until late in the
of traditional fiestas (see pp42–3), as well as evening, when the air is cooler. Many
a variety of annual cultural festivals (see cultural events and concerts begin at
pp38–41), bullfights (see pp30–31) and around midnight.
Booking Tickets Flamenco, which is held in

It is usually possible to theatres all over the city in
book tickets for major even-numbered years, and
sports events, operas, Córdoba’s Concurso Nacional
concerts and festivals in de Arte Flamenco, which
advance at the venue’s happens every third year
booking office, by phone (2016, 2019 and so on).
or online. Alternatively, use
an agency that specializes
in booking tickets for all Theatre
entertainments, such as Most drama staged in
Ticketmaster and Andalusia is in Spanish,
Entradas.com. but there are occasional
performances by visiting
international companies or
Flamenco mime artists. The theatre
Seville and Jerez de la season includes not only
Frontera claim to be the plays, but also classical music,
birthplaces of flamenco, dance and opera. Seville’s
the traditional music and main theatres are the Teatro
dance of Andalusia (see de la Maestranza (see p72),
Flamenco guitarist playing at a festival at the pp32–3). Both cities have the Teatro Lope de Vega
Teatro de la Maestranza, Seville tablaos, bars and restau- (see p101) and the
rants with floor-shows where Teatro Central.
the admission usually includes In Córdoba, the place to
Practical Information dinner or at least a drink. In go is the Gran Teatro.
Tourist information offices are Seville, it is best to look for Granada’s two main theatres
the best places to find out what venues in the Barrio de Santa are the Teatro Alhambra and
is on locally, but there are also Cruz. A good starting point is the Teatro Isabel La Católica.
two useful listings magazines the Museo del Baile Flamenco Málaga has the Teatro Cánovas
worth looking out for: El (see p79). Other reliable venues and the Teatro Cervantes.
Giraldillo (published in Seville) include La Carbonería and La
and Qué Hacer/What’s On Casa de la Memoria de
(published in Málaga). Both Al Andalus.
appear monthly, cover all of Jerez has a Centro Andaluz
Andalusia and are free. de Flamenco, as well as several
Each major city has its own tablaos. In Granada, there are
commercial websites offering a traditional flamenco venues in
wealth of local information, but Sacromonte (see p197) and the
a number of websites covering Albaicín – among them, Sala
the whole of Spain, notably Albayzín and Zambra María
Lanetro and Guía del Ocio, La Canastera. Córdoba also
are also worth consulting; just has some flamenco bars, notably
choose the province in which El Cardenal and La Bulería.
you are interested from the The two main flamenco Gran Teatro, Córdoba, one of the city’s
drop-down menu. festivals are Seville’s Bienal de leading venues for theatre
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N A N D A LU S I A 245
take place in spirits replace wine and beer for

football stadiums drinking. Some such bars have
and bullrings. DJs at weekends. The next stop
Spain has its own is a discoteca, which may open
thriving rock-pop at midnight but not fill up for a
scene. Andalusian couple of hours. There are clubs
musicians, in in the city centres, but many are
particular, have on industrial estates or outside
drawn on their of town, where the noise won’t
flamenco roots to bother residents.
create distinctive Where to go depends on
Rosario Flores, a famous Andalusian singing star, performing fusions between your age, your musical tastes
at one of her concerts musical genres. and your sexual orientation –
Two other great each city has a few gay
Cinema influences on the and lesbian clubs.
Foreign films shown in main- contemporary music If you aren’t
stream cinemas in Andalusia are of Andalusia are concerned
usually dubbed into Spanish. North Africa and about being
Original-version (VO for version Latin America. Jazz seen in the
original) films are shown in also has a devoted hippest places,
cinemas such as Avenida 5 public in Andalusia: reliably fun areas to
Cines in Seville, the Filmoteca Seville has the go bar-hopping in are
de Andalucía in Córdoba and Naima Jazz Café the Santa Cruz quarter
the Complejo Cinematográfico and Granada has the in Seville, the Judería
Gran Marbella on the Costa del Festival de Jazz. To in Córdoba and
Sol. From June to late August, find out where the around the Plaza del
you can also attend a cine up-and-coming acts Realejo and the
de verano, an open-air are playing, ask La tuna, traditional singers lower Albaicín
“summer cinema”. around or keep an in Santa Cruz, Seville (especially the
eye out for flyers. Carrera del Darro
Another interesting musical and the Paseo de los Tristes)
Opera and Classical tradition is represented by la in Granada.
Music tuna: groups of students The summer nightlife of
In Seville, most operas, dressed as minstrels playing the holiday resorts on the
including those by prestigious lutes and mandolins and singing Costa del Sol is completely
international companies, are serenades in streets and squares. different from that of the
performed at either the Teatro cities of Andalusia. Here
Lope de Vega (see p101) or the you’ll still find bares de copa
Teatro de la Maestranza (see Nightlife and discotecas, but also
p72). For something less high- Nights out in Andalusia begin many places geared to
brow, Spain has its own brand late and can easily go on until foreign tourists.
of operetta, zarzuela. dawn. The first stop is often a For a smart night out, try
As for classical music, all the bar de copas (also called a pub), one of Andalusia’s casinos.
main cities maintain their own which differs from a tapas bar Don’t dress too casually, and
orchestras (such as the Real in that no food is served and take some ID with you.
Orquesta Sinfónica de Sevilla).
Granada is great for classical
music. As well as having the
Centro Cultural Manuel de
Falla as a venue, it hosts the
Festival Internacional de
Música y Danza (see p39),
during which concerts are
held against the backdrop
of the Alhambra.
Other Live Music

Touring international rock and
pop stars mostly play their
Spanish dates in Madrid or
Barcelona, but they sometimes
make it to Seville or other cities in
Andalusia. Such concerts usually A display of flamenco dancing in a bar in Seville
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biggest theme park, while Tivoli

World is the largest amusement
park on the Costa del Sol. Every
city and strip of coast has its
water park designed specifically
for older children (see p249).
A cable car, the Teleférico
Benalmádena, takes off from
beside Tivoli World to the top of
Mount Calamorro, 800 m (2,600
ft) above sea level. There is
another good cable-car ride
in Gibraltar (see pp176–7). In
Seville, a boat trip down the
river can be fun, as can be the
trip across the Bay of Cádiz in a
catamaran (see p169). Horse
and carriages travel round the
streets in Marbella, Córdoba and
Seville, and most beach resorts
also have road trains.
The desert in the centre of
Almería region was once used
as a film set for westerns (see
p208), and kids love the shoot-
Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre, Jerez de la Frontera outs staged by the small Wild
West town of Oasys Parque
Tematico Mini-Hollywood, near
Bullfighting Other successful teams in the Tabernas. Another good show –
The Maestranza bullring region are Cádiz, Málaga and this time of performing horses
(see p72) in Seville is mythical Recreativo de Huelva (the – is put on by the Real Escuela
among bullfighting fans, and oldest football club in Spain). Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre
some of the most important The Spanish football league (see p166) in Jerez de la Frontera.
bullfights in Spain are held here has three divisions, with league Jerez also has Andalusia’s best
during the Feria de Abril matches being played on collection of exotic animals in
(see p42). Ronda (see Sunday (sometimes the Zoobotánico Jerez; the
pp180–81), Córdoba Saturday) evenings safari park Selwo Aventura,
and Granada also from September outside Estepona, is also good.
have their own to June. During the There are aquariums at Roquetas
bullrings and a season, teams del Mar (see p208) in Almería
renowned season. also compete in and Benalmádena, a town that
The season usually an eliminatory also offers Selwo Marina,
runs from April to tournament for the Andalusia’s only dolphinarium
October. Booking Copa del Rey and ice penguinarium.
tickets in advance is (King’s Cup) and for
essential if the Tile for Seville’s Betis international trophies;
matadors are well football club such matches are
known, and advisable if usually played mid-
you want to sit in the shade week. Important fixtures are
(sombra). It may be easier to get televised, although some are
tickets for novilladas, fights only shown on pay-per-view
involving matadors who are not channels. To see a live game,
yet fully qualified. Tickets are sold it is advisable to book ahead
at the bullring’s booking office. at the stadium or online.
Football Entertainment
Football is the most popular for Children
spectator sport in Spain. Seville In Spain, children go wherever
has two rival teams, FC Sevilla, adults go at just about any time
based at the Estadio Ramón of day or night. If you want to
Sánchez Pizjuán, and Betis, take yours for a treat, there are
who play at the Estadio several options. Isla Mágica (see The port of Gibraltar from the vantage
Benito Villamarín. p108) in Seville is Andalusia’s point of a cable car
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N A N D A LU S I A 247
DIRECTORY
Practical Theatre GRANADA Bullfighting
Information Centro Cultural
SEVILLE CÓRDOBA
El Giraldillo Manuel de Falla
Teatro Central Paseo de los Mártires. Plaza de Toros
∑ elgiraldillo.es C/ José Gálvez 6, Isla de la Tel 958 22 21 88. Avenida de Gran Vía
Guía del Ocio Cartuja. Map 1 C2.
∑ manueldefalla.org Parque. Tel 957 23 25 07.
∑ guiadelocio.com Tel 955 54 21 55.
∑ juntadeandalucia. Festival Internacional GRANADA
Lanetro es/culturaydeporte/ de Música y Danza
∑ lanetro.com teatrocentral/ Tel 958 56 06 11.
Plaza de Toros
∑ granadafestival.org
Avenida Doctor Olóriz 25.
CÓRDOBA
Booking Tickets Tel 958 27 24 51.
Gran Teatro Other Live Music
Entradas.com Avenida Gran Capitán 3. Football
Tel 902 20 09 20. Tel 957 48 02 37. SEVILLE
∑ entradas.com ∑ teatrocordoba.com Estadio Benito
Naima Jazz Café Villamarín (Betis)
Ticketmaster GRANADA Calle Trajano 47.
Tel 902 48 84 88. Avenida Heliópolis,
Teatro Alhambra Map 1 C5 (5 C1). Seville. Tel 902 19 19 07.
∑ ticketmaster.es
Calle Molinos 56. Tel 954 38 22 48. ∑ realbetisbalompie.es
Tel 958 02 80 00. ∑ naimacafejazz.com
Flamenco Estadio Ramón
Teatro Isabel GRANADA Sánchez Pizjuán
SEVILLE La Católica
C/ Almona del Campillo 2. Festival de Jazz (Sevilla FC)
Bienal de Flamenco Tel 958 22 29 07. de Granada Avenida Eduardo Dato,
Tel 954 2 34 46. Casa Morisca, Horno del Seville. Map 4 F2.
MÁLAGA Oro 14. Tel 958 21 59 80. Tel 902 51 00 11.
La Carbonería
Calle Levies 18. Teatro Cánovas ∑ jazzgranada.net ∑ sevillafc.es
Map 4 D1 (6 E3). Plaza de El Ejido.
Tel 954 56 37 49. Tel 951 30 89 02. Nightlife Entertainment
Casa de la Memoria Teatro Cervantes for Children
SEVILLE
de Al Andalus Calle Ramos Marín.
BENALMÁDENA
C/ Cuna 6. Tel 952 22 41 09. Gran Casino Aljarafe
Map 3 C1 (6 D2). ∑ teatrocervantes.com Avenida de la Arboleda, Selwo Marina
Tel 954 56 06 70. Tomares. Parque de la Paloma.
Cinema Tel 902 42 42 22. Tel 902 19 04 82.
CÓRDOBA ∑ grancasinoaljarafe.
SEVILLE ∑ selwomarina.com
La Bulería com
Calle Pedro López 3. Avenida 5 Cines Teleférico
Marqués de Paradas 15. Metro Benalmádena
Tel 957 48 38 89. Calle Betis 29.
Tel 954 29 30 25. Explanada de Tivoli.
El Cardenal Rejoneo Tel 902 19 04 82.
Calle Torrijos 10 CÓRDOBA
Calle Betis 31. ∑ teleferico
Tel 957 48 31 12. Filmoteca de benalmadena.com
∑ tablaocardenal.es Andalucía BENALMÁDENA
Concurso Nacional Medina y Corella 5. Casino Tivoli World
de Arte Flamenco Tel 957 10 36 27. Avda de Tivoli s/n.
∑ filmotecade
Torrequebrada
Tel 957 48 02 37. Avenida del Sol. Tel 952 57 70 16.
andalucia.com ∑ tivoli.es
GRANADA Tel 952 57 73 00.
MARBELLA ∑ casino ESTEPONA
Sala Albayzín Complejo torrequebrada.com
Carretera de Murcia, Cinematográfico Selwo Aventura
Mirador San Cristóbal. GRANADA
Gran Marbella Avda Selwo s/n,
Tel 958 80 46 46. Cines Teatro Goya. Granada 10 Autovía A7 km 162.5.
∑ flamenco Tel 952 81 64 21. Cárcel Baja 10. Tel 902 19 04 82.
albayzin.com ∑ cinesgran Tel 958 22 41 26. ∑ selwo.es
Zambra María La marbella.com ∑ granada10.com
Canastera JEREZ DE LA
Camino del Opera and MARBELLA FRONTERA
Sacromonte 89. Classical Music Zoobotánico Jerez
Casino Nueva
Tel 958 12 11 83. C/ Madreselva s/n.
SEVILLE Andalucía
∑ granadainfo.com/ Hotel Andalucía Plaza.
Tel 956 14 97 85.
canastera Teatro de la ∑ zoobotanico
Maestranza Tel 952 81 40 00.
∑ casinomarbella.com
jerez.com
JEREZ DE LA Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3
FRONTERA B2 (5 C5). Tel 954 22 33 TABERNAS
PUERTO DE SANTA
Centro Andaluz de 44. ∑ teatrodelamae MARÍA Oasys Parque Tematico
Flamenco stranza.es Mini-Hollywood
Palacio Pemartin, Plaza Casino Bahía de Cádiz Tabernas, Almería.
Real Orquesta
San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 Sinfónica de Sevilla Tel 956 87 10 42. Tel 902 53 35 32.
34. ∑ centroandaluz Tel 954 56 15 36. ∑ casinobahiade ∑ oasysparque
deflamenco.es ∑ rossevilla.es cadiz.es tematico.com
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Andalusia has a perfect climate for calm waters of the Mediterranean. Away
enjoying a range of outdoor activities, from the seashore, there are many golf
with comparatively few cold or wet days, courses and some great countryside –
and reliable sunshine most of the year. mostly hilly or mountainous – suitable for
Its coastline offers a great variety of hiking and horse riding. In winter, skiers head
watersports – from windsurfing on the for Europe’s southernmost winter-sport
Atlantic coast, to scuba diving in the clear, resort on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada.
Walking and Trekking Montañismo. Companies such

Andalusia has a huge variety of as Andalucian Adventures (see
landscapes suitable for walking: Specialist Holidays p250) and
from coastal fringes, through Spanish Steps offer guided
forests, to mountain ranges. walks through the region.
Spring is the best time to be
outdoors: temperatures are mild,
and the landscape blossoms with Cycling
wildflowers. Mid-summer is best Andalusia’s terrain is mainly
avoided because of the extreme mountainous, which discourages
heat and the risk of dehydration. all but the hardiest cyclist.
Two popular areas for hiking Added to this, there are few
are the Alpujarras (see pp204–5) quiet backroads to use as
and the Sierra de Grazalema alternatives to busy main roads.
(see p178), but all of the However, the trend of converting Fishing at a beach on Andalusia’s
region’s nature reserves have disused railway lines into “green Mediterranean coast
marked footpaths. ways” (vias verdes) has created
Always carry a good map. 12 traffic-free cycling routes, opportunities for freshwater
The Spanish army (Servicio such as the 55 km (34 mile) fishing in its scattered reservoirs
Geográfico del Ejercito) produces Via Verde del Aceite (Olive Oil and rivers, such as in the Cazorla
a useful series of 1:50,000 maps, Green Way) between Jaén and Nature Reserve (see p160). For
but the best are the 1:25,000- Alcaudete. To locate green information about where to go
series maps published by the ways, see the Fundación de and permits needed, contact
Centro Nacional de Información los Ferrocarriles Españoles the regional fishing association,
Geográfica (CNIG). Wear good website. If you want to go on an the Federación Andaluza de
walking shoes, preferably boots, organized cycling holiday with Pesca Deportiva.
and long trousers to avoid accommodation arranged for
lacerations from spiky you, try Biking Andalucía.
Mediterranean shrubs. Bring a Wildlife and
hat and, if you are going to be Birdwatching
gaining altitude, a warm jacket. Fishing The best place to get close
Always carry drinking water. Andalusia offers good to Andalusia’s wildlife is the
For more advice, contact the seafishing off its coasts as well Doñana National Park (see
Federación Andaluza de as rather more limited pp134–5), but other nature
reserves in the region also
offer good opportunities for
wildflower- and bird-spotting.
Contact Iberian Wildlife for
tours. Several companies run
whale-watching trips out of
Tarifa harbour (see p173); among
them is the Foundation for
Information and Research
on Marine Mammals.
Equestrian Sports
The horse forms a proud part
Hiking down from the Sierra Nevada through the Alpujarras of Andalusia’s traditions, as can
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 249
be seen during Seville’s April

feria (see p42), the pilgrimage
to El Rocío (see p42) and many
other fiestas. The undisputed
equestrian capital of Andalusia
is Jerez de la Frontera (see
p166), home of the Real Escuela
Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre,
which stages regular shows
featuring dancing horses.
A day’s trek on horseback
can be a splendid way to get
to know the countryside of
Andalusia. There are stables Horse riding on the deserted Atlantic beach of Zahara, near Cádiz
everywhere that will organize
anything from a brief outing to Tennis Air Sports
an extended riding holiday. Tennis is extremely popular in To find out where and how to
Two of them are Dallas Love Andalusia. To find out where to hang-glide, balloon or parachute
in the Alpujarras and Los play, ask around locally. Many over Andalusia, contact the
Alamos on the Costa de la large hotels have courts Federación Andaluza de los
Luz. For all things to do with available for the use of guests, Deportes Aéreos.
horses, the organization to and there are also private clubs Because of its normally
contact is the Federación you can join. An inexpensive reliable weather conditions,
Andaluza de Hípica. option is to book a court at the Andalusia is considered a good
local sports centre. For more place for parachuting: Skydive
information, contact the Spain has its own drop zone
Federación Andaluza de Tenis. near Seville and runs beginners’
courses as well as taking clients
on tandem jumps. For balloon
Water Sports trips, check the Balloon Flights
Water sports such as kayaking Spain website for details.
and waterskiing are available at
all major resorts along the coast.
Sea-going boats can be hired Skiing
at most of the marinas. For The Sierra Nevada (see p203) is
information about sailing in the Europe’s southernmost skiing
waters off Andalusia, contact resort. Its base station is at 2,100
The stunning golf course at La Cala de Mijas, the Real Federación Española m (6,890 ft), and its highest run
near the beaches of Málaga de Vela. starts from 3,300 m (10,800 ft).
Tarifa (see p173) has ideal The resort has 80 pistes, with a
Golf conditions for wind- and kite- longest continual run of almost
Andalusia boasts more than surfing; the Hurricane Hotel 6 km (4 miles) down the Pista
90 golf courses, mainly (see p219) will point you towards del Águila.
concentrated on the Costa del lessons and equipment rental.
Sol (also known as the “Costa The headlands at La Herra-
Golf”, see pp36–37) and around dura, on the coast of Granada
the major cities. Most have province, and around the Cabo
18 holes and are open to non- de Gata in Almería are known
members on payment of a for their scuba diving. The
green fee; advance booking Federación Española de
is recommended. Actividades Subacuáticas will
The largest golf club in direct you to the nearest dive
Andalusia is La Cala de Mijas, school, where you can try an
which has three 18-hole introductory dive or sign up
courses and one six-hole for an intensive course.
course. Another outstanding Andalusia also has ten water
course can be found at parks (parques acuáticos)
Montecastillo, in Jerez de la especially aimed at children, with
Frontera, which is used for slides and wave pools. They are
the Volvo Masters and other at Torre del Mar, Torremolinos,
important tournaments. To Granada, Mijas, Córdoba, Seville,
find your nearest golf course, Almuñecar (on the coast of
consult the Federación Granada), Puerto de Santa María, Kite-surfing, a popular activity on the beaches
Andaluza de Golf. Huelva and Vera (in Almería). of windy Tarifa
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Specialist Holidays
A good way to spend a week or
two in Andalusia while learning
something useful at the same
time is to go on a special-
interest holiday. If you want to
get deep into the heart of
Andalusia, you could try a
residential flamenco dancing
workshop at Cortijo del Caño
in Granada, for example.
Cooking is another way to
learn something about your
surroundings. Annie B’s Spanish
The impressive and atmospheric Arab baths in Granada Kitchen runs residential courses
in Mediterranean cooking, while
Naturism focus more on pampering at L’Atelier in the Alpujarras
Topless bathing is tacitly and beauty treatments rather you will be taught vegan and
accepted at all resorts, most of than providing health- vegetarian cuisine.
which also have one or more enhancing therapy. Learning to speak Spanish is
discreet, officially recognized The spa at Gran Hotel another obvious way to make
naturist beaches in a cove away Guadalpin Banus (Puerto a holiday yield tangible benefits,
from the main beach. Vera Banus, Marbella coast) but keep in mind that you may
Playa Club in Almería is a hotel specializes in Oriental Spa pick up an Andaluz accent
specifically for nudists, and treatments, with Japanese and rather than the more neutral
Costa Natura near Estepona Chinese influences as well as pronunciation of central Spain.
is a residential “village” also meditation, yoga and pilates Many private companies run
dedicated to naturism. For classes. Guests at the Hotel courses in Spanish lasting from
further information about La Fuente de la Higuera, in a week to several months, but a
naturism, contact the Ronda, can choose from a safe option is to make arrange-
Asociación Naturista-Nudista range of facials, wraps and ments with the organization
de Andalucía. massages or have a soak in in charge of promoting the
the Turkish baths. Hotel Villa Spanish language, the
Padierna Palace in Marbella Instituto Cervantes.
Spas and Arab Baths focuses more on well-being, Other subjects on offer
Andalusia’s traditional spas are offering slimming and anti- are not directly related to
mainly small, out-of-the-way stress treatments. The serenity Andalusia. Authentic Adven-
towns where springs of thermal spa at Las Dunas, in Estepona, tures will teach you painting,
or medicinal waters supply uses Ligne St Barth products photography, as well as taking
hotels-cum-sanatoriums that from the French Caribbean in you for guided walks, and the
treat patients with a range of its pampering treatments. The Complejo Turístico Salitre
ailments. The main ones are Marbella Club Hotel (see p218) in the mountains behind
Alhama de Almería, Sierra has a beachfront spa that offers Estepona will introduce you
Alhamilla (Almería), Alhama de 99 thalasso, body and beauty to the delights of the night
Granada, Alicun de las Torres treatments, including a seashell sky from its observatory.
(Granada), Graena (near facial massage. The Elysium
Guadix), Lanjarón (in the Spa at NH Sotogrande
Alpujarras), San Andrés (Jaén), offers treatments such as
Carratraca (Málaga), Fuente hydromassage and a colour-
Armaga at Tolox (Málaga) and therapy relaxation room.
Fuente Amarga at Chiclana in When Andalusia was under
Cádiz. Contact the Asociación the sway of the Moors, it had
Nacional de Estaciones many public bathhouses – the
Termales for further details. equivalent to Turkish baths.
Spa hotels have seen a huge The last one closed in the
growth in popularity over the 17th century, however private
past few years. These hotels companies have been re-
tend to be larger, luxury creating their own “Arab baths”,
properties and are often with hot and cold rooms and
located beachside or massages available, in the cities
complemented with a golf of Seville, Córdoba, Málaga and
course. The spa facilities are Granada. Sessions need to be
normally reserved for the use reserved – and, in some cases, An artist painting the coastal scene at
of hotel guests and tend to paid for – in advance. Nerja, on the Costa del Sol
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 251
DIRECTORY
Walking and Dallas Love Stables Skydive Spain Villa Padierna Palace
Trekking Bubión (Alpujarras). Calle Virgen de los Reyes Hotel GL
Tel 608 45 38 02. 3, Bolullos de la Mitación. Carretera de Cádiz,
Federación Andaluza ∑ spain-horse-riding. Tel 955 76 60 56. km 166, Benahavís.
de Montañismo com ∑ skydivespain.com Tel 902 20 06 76.
Calle Santa Paula 23, ∑ hotelvillapadierna.
2° Planta, Federación Andaluza Skiing com
Granada. de Hípica
Tel 958 29 13 40. Tel 954 21 81 46. Sierra Nevada
Tel 902 70 80 90.
Arab Baths
∑ fedamon.com ∑ fah.es
∑ sierranevadaski.com Córdoba
Spanish Steps Golf Calle Corregidor Luis de
Calle Carreteria 6, Naturism la Cerda 51.
Cómpeta (Málaga). La Cala Resort
Asociación Naturista- Tel 957 48 47 46.
Tel 952 55 32 70. Urb La Cala Golf s/n,
Nudista de Andalucía ∑ hammamspain.com
∑ spanish-steps.com Mijas Costa.
Tel 952 669 016. Tel 628 80 62 50. Granada
Cycling ∑ anna-nudismo.es
∑ lacala.com Calle Santa Ana 16.
Costa Natura Tel 958 22 99 78.
Biking Andalucía Federación
Carretera de Cádiz ∑ hammamspain.com
Apartado de Correos 346, Andaluza de Golf
km 151, Estepona.
Orgiva (Granada). Tel 952 22 55 90. Málaga
Tel 952 80 80 65.
Tel 676 00 25 46. ∑ rfga.org Plaza de los Mártires 5.
∑ costanatura.com
∑ bikingandalucia. Tel 952 21 20 18.
Montecastillo Barceló Vera Playa Club ∑ hammamspain.com
com
Golf Resort Carretera de Garrucha a
Fundación de los Ctra Jerez-Arcos km 6, Seville
Villaricos, Vera (Almería).
Ferrocarriles Jerez de La Frontera. Tel 950 62 70 10.
Calle Aire 15.
Españoles Tel 956 15 12 00. ∑ veraplaya.info
Tel 955 01 00 25.
∑ ffe.es/viasverdes ∑ barcelo.com ∑ airedesevilla.com
Spas and Spa
Fishing Tennis Hotels Specialist
Holidays
Federación Andaluza Federación Asociación Nacional
de Pesca Deportiva Andaluza de Tenis de Estaciones Annie B’s Spanish
Calle Paraíso 4, Tel 954 44 44 33. Termales Kitchen
Edificio Jerez 74, ∑ fatenis.com Tel 902 11 76 22. Calle Viñas 11, Vejer de
2ª Planta, Oficina 6m ∑ balnearios.org la Frontera.
Jerez de la Frontera Water Sports Tel 620 56 06 49.
(Cádiz). Las Dunas Beach
Federación Hotel & Spa L’Atelier
Tel 956 18 75 85.
Española de Urb. La Boladilla Baja, Calle Alberca 21, Mecina
∑ fapd.org
Actividades Ctra de Cadiz km 163.5, Fondales (Alpujarras).
Wildlife and Subacuáticas 29689 Estepona, Marbella. Tel 958 85 75 01.
Birdwatching Tel 932 00 67 69. Tel 951 08 20 90. ∑ atelier-mecina.com
∑ fedas.es Gran Hotel Guadalpin Authentic
Foundation for
Real Federación Banus Adventures
Information and
Española de Vela C/Edgar Neville s/n, Tel 01453 823 328
Research on Marine Nueva Andalucía,
Tel 915 19 50 08. (in the UK).
Mammals
∑ rfev.es
Puerto Banus, Marbella. ∑ authentic
Pedro Cortés 4, Tarifa. Tel 952 41 01 51. adventures.co.uk
Tel 956 62 70 08. ∑ granhotelguadalpin
∑ firmm.org Air Sports Complejo Turístico
banusmarbella.com
Balloon Flights Salitre
Iberian Wildlife Hotel La Fuente de Tel 952 11 70 05.
Tel 918 98 91 95. Spain la Higuera ∑ turismosalitre.com
∑ iberianwildlife.com ∑ balloonflightsspain. Partido de los Frontones,
com 29400 Ronda, Málaga. Cortijo del Caño
Equestrian Sports Tel 952 16 56 08. Lanjarón (Alpujarras).
Federación
∑ hotellafuente.com Tel 617 81 95 24.
Los Alamos Andaluza de los
∑ alpujarrasinfo.com/
Apartado 56, Deportes Aéreos NH Sotogrande dance
Barbate (Cádiz). Estadio de la Cartuja, Autovía A-7, Salida 130,
Tel 956 43 10 47. Seville. 11310 Cádiz. Instituto Cervantes
∑ losalamosriding. Tel 954 32 54 38. Tel 956 69 54 44. Tel 914 36 76 00.
co.uk ∑ feada.org ∑ nh-hotels.com ∑ cervantes.es
www.ebook3000.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 254–263

Travel Information 264–273
www.ebook3000.com
254 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The economy of Andalusia is heavily final and the European Grand Prix,
dependent on tourism. The rich variety of which have led to an increase in the
natural attractions and its cultural heritage number of tourist facilities and an
draw visitors to the area throughout the improved infrastructure. The Junta de
year. Many have even settled in this Andalucía has tourist offices across the
evocative region, home of all things region, offering a wealth of brochures,
quintessentially Spanish: rich terracotta maps and leaflets.
landscapes, olive groves, flamenco dancing, Try not to do too much at once, but
and corridas (bullfights). savour the particular delights of one or two
Andalusia has successfully staged high- places. Adjust to the slower pace and, in
profile sporting events such as the Sierra summer, do your sightseeing early in the
Nevada Ski Championships, the UEFA Cup day before the heat becomes unbearable.
also offer suggestions on

nightlife and shows, as well
as outdoor activities. For
guided tours, the tourist office
will be able to direct you to a
number of multilingual
agencies, such as El Legado
Andalusi (“The Legacy of
Al-Andalus”), which highlights
Andalusia’s heritage through
exhibitions and self-guided
cultural tours (see p272).
Admission Charges
Guided horse-drawn carriage tours, operating in Andalusia’s main cities Many sights offer free entry to
Spanish residents and members
When to Go advance. Visitors from all other of the European Union. Others
Any season is perfect for a visit countries are legally required charge a moderate fee (with
to Andalusia. Spring boasts to obtain a visa before travelling relevant ID, seniors, students
balmy weather and numerous to Spain. Please check the and children receive discounts).
festivals, including the Holy requirements before travel Large groups should make
Week processions and Feria de with your Spanish Consulate. advance reservations, and may
Abril (see p38), as well as local On arrival, your hotel will take be offered a discount. In
fairs in all towns, and the start of your passport details. If you lose Granada, Córdoba, Baeza,
the bullfighting season. your passport, or need legal Úbeda and Jaén, a bono turístico
Summer is hot in the region’s advice or other help while in (tourist pass) allows entrance to
interior so it is the perfect time Spain, contact your embassy various monuments and
to head to the vast coastline, or consulate.
while autumn offers pleasant
weather for sightseeing or rural
excursions. Winter weather is Tourist Information
mild in most areas, except in the All of Andalusia’s major cities
Sierra Nevada (see p203) where have several Oficinas de Turismo
you can hit the ski slopes. (tourist offices). Turespaña
provides information on Spain
at a national level, while offices
Visas and Passports run by the Junta de Andalucía
Visas are not required for cover Andalusia as a region.
citizens of EU countries. Visitors Local tourist offices usually have
from the US, Canada, Australia details only of their environs.
and New Zealand do not need a Most tourist offices are well
visa for stays of up to 90 days. organized, offering brochures
For longer visits, apply to your covering all kind of services.
Spanish Consulate for a permit They have a range of leaflets Many monuments and museums offer free
(visado) several months in listing local festivals and can or discounted entry
Metro-Centro tram in Seville’s city centre
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 255
museums for a reduced fixed Public Conveniences

rate. At many sights, credit card Public toilets are scarce. How-
payments are not accepted. ever, there is a bar on virtually
every corner that is legally
bound to allow you to use its
Opening Hours toilets. Another option is to head
The majority of museums and to a department store, like El
monuments are operated by Corte Inglés. Ladies should look
the Junta de Andalucía and are for a “D” (Damas) or “M” (Mujeres)
usually open 10am–8:30pm on the door; while men’s rooms
from mid-September to May, are marked with a “H” (Hombres)
and 9am–3:30pm from June to or a “C” (Caballeros).
mid-September, staying open Carry a pack of tissues when
during the siesta. Most are open travelling to rural areas as toilet
Sunday and public holidays paper is a rare find. This should
10am–5pm, but close all day not be a problem in city centres
Monday. Ticket offices close an and at major tourist sights.
hour before the sight closes. Watch out for signs in public
Many churches open only Visitors outside a church in El Rocío, toilets within older buildings
for Mass, but in small towns a Andalusia that state “No tirar papel al WC”
caretaker will often let visitors (do not flush paper or other
in between religious services. However, few venues have a objects down the toilet).
Hours for Mass vary, but are strict dress code so smart casual
usually held every Sunday to attire is accepted.
8pm, and between 7–9pm Smoking is not allowed in any Taxes and Tipping
on weekdays. public indoor space. In bars and If you are not a European
restaurants smoking is per- Union resident, you can reclaim
mitted in the outdoor areas. the VAT (IVA in Spanish) paid
Language on goods bought in any
Along the Costa del Sol you will authorized shop in Spain.
find many multilingual residents Visiting Churches When you spend a minimum
and establishments. In major city In most towns, tourists are of €90.15 in the same shop on
centres many people working in welcome in the church during the same day (see p238), ask
the service industry will have at a service as long as they are for information on how to
least a basic level of English, quiet and respectful. claim your refund. See
but in rural towns you are likely Dress codes in Spanish churches www.premiertaxfree.com
to hear mainly Spanish. Most are not as strict as in other Catholic Tipping tends to be an
people are very accommodating countries, but visitors should avoid issue of discretion in Spain.
and will try their best to skimpy shorts and bare shoulders A service charge (servicio) is
communicate with you. and arms. There is usually no usually included (see p221)
admission charge, except in larger in the bill, but in more
cathedrals, although a donation upmarket restaurants you
Etiquette and Smoking may be expected. Tourist offices are expected to tip around
In Spain, strangers usually and hotels are usually able to five per cent in addition. It
greet each other on meeting provide details of churches is also common to round up
in doorways or lifts – and even holding services in English. the fare for taxi drivers.
when passing on the street in
small towns. When introduced to
someone, expect to shake hands.
Once they are familiar, men
embrace and pat each other on
the shoulder, and female friends
greet each other with a hug
or kiss on both cheeks.
Spaniards rarely drink
alcohol without nibbles until
after dinner. The waiter will not
bring the bill until you ask for
it, and generally the bill for a
round of drinks is not shared.
The Spanish tend to dress
smartly, so wearing very casual
clothes and shoes will readily
identify you as a tourist. Upmarket restaurant in Seville where tipping is expected in addition to the bill
www.ebook3000.com
256 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travellers with
Special Needs
Modern buildings generally
have adequate provision for
disabled visitors, with lifts,
ramps and special toilet
facilities. However, entry to
some historical monuments
may be restricted so check
ahead with the local tourist
office or monument staff. Some
historic centres have pedestrian
zones and bicycle lanes, which Local market stall with a colourful display of fresh produce
can be used, with caution, by
wheelchairs. rural towns and public places. Responsible Travel
Disability Rights UK, a UK- Spain has a dynamic gay scene, There are a growing number of
based charity, and the Oficina with clubs, bars, hotels and hotels and guesthouses with an
de Turismo para Personas associations throughout emphasis on green tourism.
Discapacitadas in Seville can Andalusia, particularly in Andeco promotes ecotourism
provide travel information for the larger cities. in Andalusia, while Acentorural
disabled users. In Madrid, Servi- One association that and Top Rural list accommodation
COCEMFE advises on suitable promotes gay and lesbian throughout the countryside.
accommodation (see p215). rights is Colegas, while the Glamping Hub provides a
All public transport in Seville International Gay & Lesbian glamorous but green way of
is wheelchair accessible, with Travel Association has an camping, offering 14 destinations
electronic ramps or same-level online directory of gay- in Andalusia.
entry onto buses and Metro- and lesbian-friendly travel Every town and city has local
Centro trams. businesses and tour operators. markets and shops that
promote their regional produce,
and local activities and festivals
Senior Travellers to provide entertainment. Local
There are many options for both farmers belong to cooperatives,
leisurely and more active which sell their produce in the
holidays for senior travellers. markets (Mercado de Abastos).
Health spas have become Locally grown meats and fresh
popular choices as are walking International Student Identity Card fish from regional waters are
holidays. There are substantial also sold here, but there will also
discounts for travellers over the be some imported produce.
age of 55 staying in four-star Travelling on a Budget Organically grown produce
hotels, during the off-peak Most large towns have a is referred to as ecológico; while
season. US-based Road Scholar Centro de Documentación e organic meats are defined as de
specialises in offering group Información Juvenil, which corral, ecológica or orgánica,
travel experiences for seniors. provides information for and will be marked as such in
students and young people. stores and markets. Market
A valid International Student stalls that exclusively sell
Gay and Lesbian Identification Card (ISIC card) organically grown goods are
Travellers entitles you to some price very difficult to find, even in
In general, Spain openly accepts reductions, including museum bigger cities.
gays and lesbians. However, entrance fees and travel. Every town and city has local
discretion is still advisable in Many museums and monu- artisan shops. On Sunday
ments offer free entry one day mornings, Seville’s Art Market
a week so check in advance. features works from local
To dine on a budget, order professional artists. Seasonal
the menú del día (a 2–3 course markets also feature regional
meal at a fixed price) or choose artisans, with one of the most
tapas instead of dishes from la impressive being the Mercado de
carta. Another saving would be Belenes (Market of Nativity
to opt for locally brewed beer Scenes), held every December in
or house wines. the Plaza de San Francisco. Here
Youth hostels provide you will find numerous stalls
shared minimal facilities for offering intricately detailed,
a bargain price, while family- handmade nativity characters.
A Gay Pride Parade weaving its way run budget hotels offer Local activities and festivals
through the streets of Málaga more privacy. such as Holy Week processions,
annual fairs and music festivals por la mañana and the Conversion Chart
promoting local artists provide afternoon, por la tarde.
Imperial to Metric
unique entertainment. Afternoon starts after siesta 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
time, at around 5pm. 1 foot = 30 centimetres
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
Time 1 ounce = 28 grams
Spain is one hour ahead Electricity 1 pound = 454 grams
of Greenwich Mean Time The current in Spain is 220V-AC 1 pint = 0.6 litres
1 gallon = 4.6 litres
(GMT) and British Summer with two-pin, round-pronged
Time, except for brief periods plugs. Adaptors can be found
in spring and autumn when in many local hypermarkets, Metric to Imperial
clock changes are not supermarkets and electrical 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
synchronized. stores. If you can, take one with 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
The 24-hour clock is used you to be on the safe side. Many 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
for written and official hotels now use the key/card 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
purposes but not in speech. system for switching on the 1 litre = 1.8 pints
The morning is referred to as electricity supply in rooms.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Granada Senior Travellers MÁLAGA
Consulates Calle Santa Ana 4.
Centro de
Tel 958 57 52 02. Road Scholar
Australian Embassy 11 Avenue de Lafayette, Información y
Torre Espacio, Paseo de Málaga Boston, Asesoramiento
Pasaje de Chinitas 4. MA 02111-1746. Juvenil (INFOJOVEN)
la Castellana 259D,
Tel 951 30 89 11. Tel 1 800 454 5768 Calle Roger de Flor 1,
Planta 24,
28046 Madrid. Seville (outside US Málaga.
Tel 913 53 66 00. Avenida de la 1 978 323 4141). Tel 951 92 60 67.
∑ spain.embassy. Constitución 21. ∑ roadscholar.org ∑ juventud.malaga.eu
gov.au Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
Gay and Lesbian SEVILLE
Tel 954 78 75 78.
British Consulate Plaza San Francisco 19, Travellers Instituto Andaluz de
Edificio Eurocom, Calle Edificio Laredo, Seville. la Juventud
Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Map 3 C3 (5 C3).
Colegas Calle Bilbao, 8–10, Seville.
29006 Málaga. Tel 955 47 12 32. Tel 954 50 13 77.
Tel 955 03 57 16.
Tel 902 10 93 56. ∑ turismo.sevilla.org ∑ colegaweb.org
∑ informajoven.org
∑ ukinspain.fco. International Gay
Spanish Tourist
gov.uk
Office (UK) & Lesbian Travel Responsible
Canadian Consulate 6th Floor, 64 North Row, Association Travel
Edificio Horizonte, London W1K 7DE. ∑ iglta.org
Acentorural
Plaza de la Malagueta 2, Tel 020 7317 2011.
Travelling on C/Puerta del Osario 3,
1st floor, ∑ spain.info
29016 Málaga.
a Budget 2nd floor, Seville.
Travellers with Tel 954 95 61 73.
Tel 952 22 33 46. ALMERÍA ∑ acentorural.com
∑ international.gc.ca
Special Needs
Centro de Andeco
US Consulate Disability Rights UK Información Juvenil
Ground Floor, CAN Avenida Ramón
Plaza Nueva, 8-8 dupl, C/ Marín 2–2. y Cajal n°4,
2nd floor, Seville. Mezzanine, 49–51 East
Tel 950 21 13 67. Marbella (Málaga).
Road, London N1 6AH, UK.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). ∑ injuve.es Tel 952 77 09 54.
Tel (020) 7250 8181.
Tel 954 21 87 51. ∑ ecoturismo
∑ disabilityrightsuk. CÓRDOBA
∑ embusa.es enandalucia.org
org
La Casa de la
Tourist Oficina de Turismo Juventud Glamping Hub
Information para Personas Campo Madre de Dios Marion St, Denver,
Discapacitadas s/n, 14010. Colorado.
Oficinas de Turismo (CEADIS) Tel 957 76 47 07. Tel (415) 800 3004.
∑ andalucia.org Calle Fray Isidoro ∑ injuve.es ∑ glampinghub.com
de Sevilla 1, Seville.
Almería Tel 954 91 54 44. GRANADA Top Rural
Parque Nicolás ∑ cermiandalucia.es Paseo de la Castellana 79,
Salmerón s/n. Centro de
Madrid.
Tel 950 17 52 20. Servi-COCEMFE Información Juvenil
Tel 902 10 97 11.
C/Luis Cabrera 63, Avenida de Madrid 5,
∑ toprural.com
Córdoba 28002 Madrid. Granada.
Plaza del Triunfo s/n. Tel 917 44 36 00. Tel 958 20 46 52.
Tel 957 35 51 79. ∑ cocemfe.es ∑ injuve.es
www.ebook3000.com
258 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health

Andalusia is, by and large, a safe place for visitors. Women
travelling alone tend not be hassled, but may have to put up
with so-called compliments from men of all ages. Pickpockets
and bag-snatchers, however, are very common in cities, so be
cautious around tourist spots and on crowded transport. If
you must carry valuable items, avoid putting them all in the
same place. Wear a money belt and do not keep your wallet in
an easily accessible place. If you become ill during your stay,
go to a pharmacy, where someone should be able to advise
you. Organize travel insurance before leaving for Spain as it Mounted police officers from the
is difficult to obtain and more expensive once there. Policía Nacional
Police dark blue uniform, have many In an Emergency

There are three types of police responsibilities, such as dealing The telephone number for
in Spain – the Guardia Civil, the with visitors’ permits and docu- medical emergency services is
Policía Nacional and the Policía mentation and they are also the 061. Report all serious crime to
Local. When approaching police best to turn to when reporting the local police and for the fire
on the street, remember that it a crime. brigade dial 112.
is illegal to be without ID. The Policía Local handle the
In rural areas you will usually day-to-day traffic policing of
encounter the green-uniformed towns and cities. Lost and Stolen Property
Guardia Civil, who patrol the Pickpockets are common in
country highways and will help crowded areas. Beware of people
if your car breaks down (see What to Be Aware of trying to distract you while
p271). They also set up random The abundance of street-life someone else snatches your
road blocks to check for drink means that you will rarely find bag or wallet. Wear bags and
driving or other infractions. yourself alone or in a position cameras across your body, not
The Policía Nacional, who wear a to be harassed. on your shoulder, and take
There are no particularly special care of mobile phones
notorious areas of Seville and laptops. At ATMs be cautious
to be avoided. Just act of loitering strangers. Take a
streetwise: do not use photocopy of your passport and
maps late at night and leave the original in the hotel
try to look like you know safe. Park in a secure car park,
where you are going. storing valuables out of view.
When visiting the Report any incident to the
Sacromonte caves in police (poner una denuncia) as
Granada to see flamenco soon as possible (within 24
Ambulance displaying the emergency number performances (see p197), hours), particularly if you wish
go in a group and keep to obtain a statement (denun-
an eye on your belong- cia) for an insurance claim.
ings. In cities such as
Seville, Granada and
Córdoba, beware of Health Precautions
Roma (gypsies) who will Beware of the sun, particularly
try to read your palm or in the summer months when
offer a sprig of rosemary, temperatures can reach up to
then demand com- 45° C (113° F). Try to avoid
Marked car of the Policía Nacional pensation (petty change walking in the midday sun and
doesn’t suffice). Your stay in the shade whenever
refusal to pay results in possible. Use sunscreen, wear a
their outrage, and you hat and be sure to drink plenty
can have a difficult time of water.
getting away from them. In rural areas, take any signs
Make sure that you showing a bull or saying toro
take official taxis bravo (fighting bull) seriously.
displaying a licence These bulls are extremely
number, although dangerous animals and should
Fire engine marked with contact number illegal cabs are rare. not be approached.
Hospitals and All the cities have several Travel and Health
Pharmacies hospitals each, while the Costa Insurance
For minor ailments, visit a del Sol has a hospital situated All EU nationals are entitled to
pharmacy (farmacia), where on the main coastal highway Spanish social security cover.
pharmacists can dispense (N340) just east of Marbella. Before travelling, you must obtain
a wide range of For private care, the European Health Insurance
medication over the contact your insurance Card (see www.ehic.org.uk).
counter, but for many company for a list of Show your card or policy to
drugs you will need a centres covered by receive medical care. In some
doctor’s prescription. your plan. cases you may have to pay first
Farmacias have a Most hospitals will and be reimbursed later. For
green or red have volunteer private medical care, make sure
neon cross interpreters you have your policy on you
outside and are who speak when you request assistance.
found in most English and Travel insurance is advisable,
towns. A few Spanish pharmacy signs occasionally and should be arranged before
are open 24 hours, but other languages. your trip. Carry all
most open 12 hours a day. The Cruz Roja (Red Cross) documentation with you.
Some close for siesta. At least has an extensive network If you need a lawyer, ask your
one will be de guardia – ready throughout Spain and runs embassy or consulate (see p257)
to dispatch out of hours. The an ambulance service. to recommend one. Not all
opening rota is posted on the Your hotel and embassy or lawyers speak English, but
door of all farmacias and also consulate can provide a list of police stations may be able to
in local newspapers. English-speaking doctors and offer a volunteer interpreter
For urgent medical assistance, dentists. Dental procedures (intérprete). Otherwise you may
go to the nearest Urgencias – are safe and are generally need to hire a Traductor Oficial
the emergency ward of a cheaper than the UK or Jurado to state your case and
hospital or clinic. and US. undertake legal work.
DIRECTORY
Local Police Córdoba Hospital General Granada
Stations Comisaría de Policía Avenida de las Fuerzas Calle Reyes Catolicos 5.
Avenida Doctor Armadas 2, Tel 958 26 26 64.
Almería Fleming 2. Granada. Málaga
Tel 950 62 30 40. Tel 957 48 00 16. Tel 958 02 00 00. Calle Mesonero
Córdoba Granada Romanos 2.
Tel 957 29 07 60. Hospital Reina Sofía
Ayuntamiento Tel 952 61 08 36.
Avenida Menéndez Pidal
Granada Plaza del Carmen 5. Seville
s/n, Córdoba.
Tel 954 24 82 11. Tel 958 53 96 97. María Auxiliadora 6.
Tel 957 01 00 00.
Málaga Málaga Oficina de Tel 954 41 62 61.
Tel 952 06 18 70. Objetos Perdidos Hospital Open 24 hours.
Calle Victoria 15. Torrecardenas
Seville
Tel 951 92 61 11. Paraje de Torrecardenas Travel and Health
Tel 954 28 93 00. s/n, Almería. Insurance
Seville Oficina de
Tel 950 01 60 00. Asociación
In an Emergency Objetos Perdidos
Calle Manuel Vázquez Hospital Profesional de
Ambulance Sagastizábal 3. Traductores e
Universitario Virgen
Tel 061 and 112. Map 6 F5. Intérpretes
del Rocio
Fire Brigade Tel 954 42 04 03. Apartado de Correos 55,
Avenida Manuel Siurots
47080 Valladolid.
Tel 112. s/n, Seville.
Hospitals Tel 652 15 54 06.
Police Tel 955 01 20 00. ∑ aptij.es
Tel 112. Cruz Roja
Pharmacies European Health
Hospital Victoria Eugenia,
Lost and Stolen Insurance Card (EHIC)
Avenida de la Cruz Roja,
Property Almería PO Box 1114,
Seville. Map 2 E4.
Carretera de Ronda 325. Newcastle upon Tyne
Tel 954 35 14 00.
Almería Tel 950 26 63 12. NE99 2TL, UK.
Oficina de Objetos Hospital Costa Open 24 hours. Tel 0845 605 0707
Perdidos del Sol (from abroad
Avenida del Autovia A-7 km 187, Córdoba +44 191 218 1999).
Mediterráneo 255. Marbella, Málaga. Calle Lope de Hoces 7. ∑ europeanhealth
Tel 950 62 14 98. Tel 951 97 66 69. Tel 957 29 35 70. card.org.uk
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260 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency Wiring Money

To wire money, you can use a
Finding a bank is not a problem, as there are usually one bank or an international service
or two even in small towns (but not necessarily in villages). such as Western Union or
Other options for changing currency include casas de MoneyGram. If using a bank,
use a large central office
cambio, hotels and travel agents. Changing money in Spain
where they may have more
is best attempted in larger cities, where banks have the experience. To receive money
best exchange rates. Alternatively, credit cards are widely through a bank you will need
accepted across Andalusia and ATMS are frequent in towns. a local bank account.
You can take any amount of foreign currency into Spain, but For both sending and
sums worth over €6,000 should be declared at customs when receiving money, Western
Union is available at all
you enter the country. central Correos post offices.
MoneyGram is available
at select stores or public
Changing Money hours are reduced, and on telephone offices (locutorios).
Most banks have a foreign public holidays they remain
exchange desk casa de cambio, closed (see p41). DIRECTORY
and in building societies a caja
de ahorros. While Málaga Banks and Bureau
airport has 24-hour exchange ATMs de Change
facilities and at Seville airport ATMs are readily available in Banco Santander
the Iberia Airlines information Andalusia. Look for the logo on Avenida de la Constitución 3,
desk offers money changing, your card to find an appropriate 41000 Seville.
the rates are generally higher in machine. ATMs have various Tel 954 59 78 00.
airports. You can change language options. Check with
money at El Corte Inglés your bank regarding foreign BBVA
department stores, travel transaction fees and inform Calle de Recaredo 23,
agents and hotels, although them prior to travel. Spanish 41003 Seville.
their rates are not favourable banks may impose a fee Tel 954 53 52 98.
and fees vary. (€2–3 per transaction), but Citibank
It is better to take enough exchange rates are better. Avenida República Argentina 24,
euros for your initial needs 41011 Seville.
before travelling, and to shop Tel 954 99 04 60.
around for the best rates at Debit and Credit Cards
Oficinas de Cambio de
your leisure after you arrive. Credit cards such as Visa, Moneda
You must show your passport American Express and Francisco Javier Leon Lamela,
or driver’s licence to change MasterCard, as well as debit Almirante Lobo 1,
money. To enter a bank you cards bearing the Cirrus or 41001 Seville.
must ring a bell and wait to be Maestro logo are widely Tel 954 22 95 73.
buzzed in. accepted all over Spain.
Most payment transactions Lost Cards and
require identification Traveller’s Cheques
Banking Hours (passport or driving licence).
Banks open from 8:30am to With your PIN number you American Express
Tel 900 81 00 29 (toll free).
2pm Monday to Friday. Few can withdraw money from
banks open on Saturdays. ATMs. Traveller’s cheques are MasterCard
During a town’s annual feria rarely accepted and difficult Tel 900 97 12 31 (toll free).
week (see pp42–3) banking to cash. Travelex
Tel 900 93 34 10 (toll free).
Visa
Tel 900 99 11 24 (toll free).
Wiring Money
Correos
∑ correos.es
MoneyGram
∑ moneygram.com
Western Union
∑ westernunion.com
A branch of the BBVA bank, Seville
The Euro EU members using the euro as designs of fictional architectural

The euro (€) is the common sole official currency are known structures and monuments. The
currency of the European as the Eurozone. Several EU coins, however, have one side
Union. It went into general members have opted out of identical (the value side), and
circulation on 1 January 2002, joining this common currency. one side with an image unique
initially for 12 participating Euro notes are identical to each country. Both notes and
countries. Spain was one of throughout the Eurozone coins are exchangeable in each
those countries. countries, each one including of the participating countries.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by
the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple). All notes show €5 note
the stars of the European Union.
€10 note
€20 note
€50 note
€100 note
€200 note
€500 note
€2 coin €1 coin 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and
€1; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents
and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold, while 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
www.ebook3000.com
262 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media Reaching the Right

The telephone system in Spain is run by Movistar. It is Number
efficient, but one of the most expensive in Europe. Public When dialling within a city,
telephones are available on the street and at locutorios province or to another
province, dial the entire
(public telephone call centres). Spain also has a good
number – the province is
network of Internet cafés. indicated by the initial
Spain’s postal service can be slow but letters posted at numbers: Seville 954, 955;
central post offices will arrive at their destination faster. Málaga 951, 952; Córdoba
Digital TV and radio provide options for regional and 957; Cádiz 956; Granada
958; Huelva 959; Jaén 953;
international programmes. Newspapers, both in hard Almería 950.
copy and online, are plentiful in Andalusia. • International calls: dial 00,
wait for tone, dial country
and area codes and number.
International and Local or Phone House. Average costs • Movistar directory enquiries
Telephone Calls with a pre-pay card for national are on 11886.
• International directory
There are plenty of phone calls are €0.35/min; a national
enquiries are on 025.
booths (cabinas telefónicas) on SMS costs €0.15.
• To connect directly with
the streets of Spain, as well as at the operator in your
locutorios, where you buy a country dial 900 followed
phonecard (tarjetas telefónicas) Internet
by the country code
to place a call. Public phones Internet cafés can be found 990061 (Australia);
use coins and phonecards, scattered across all cities and in 990015 (Canada);
which are available from most some small towns. The average 990011 (USA); or
tobacconists (estancos) and price per hour is €2. In Seville, 990044 for the UK.
newsstands. They are priced by the central post office has a
their value in call units. small locutorio with Internet
It is easiest to make access and the tourist for important or urgent mail use
long-distance calls office near Plaza Nueva the certificado (registered) and
(conferencias de offers free Internet urgente (express) mail services.
largas distancias) access for 10 minutes. Main post offices open all
at locutorios. Most local libraries also day Monday to Saturday;
A call made from a offer computers with local post offices open
cabina telefónica or free Internet access. mornings only. A poste restante
locutorio costs 35 per Wi-Fi is available in service in central offices enables
cent more than from a nearly all hotels, you to collect letters or parcels.
private phone. Calls although some still A passport or other form of
from hotel telephones charge excessive rates. identification is needed but
are also more It is also available in there is no collection fee.
expensive. Calling many bars and cafés, Buy stamps (sellos) at any post
abroad is cheapest and also in some office and at estancos (state-
between 10pm and A Spanish phone booth parks and plazas. run tobacconists), displaying
8am daily. (cabina telefónica) Starbucks can be a yellow and blue sign.
found in nearly every International couriers such
major city, offering free Wi-Fi. as DHL and UPS guarantee
Mobile Phones urgent delivery worldwide.
A 3G broadband mobile (or Call the central office to arrange
mobile operable in frequency Postal Services a pick up.
GSM 900/1800) will work in Spain, The Spanish
but check first with your provider postal service
regarding costs. If you plan to between major
make frequent calls, it will cities is
probably work out cheaper to fairly efficient,
get a Spanish number. You can but between
have your phone unlocked and smaller towns
get a prepaid SIM card, or buy a it can be slow.
pre-pay phone that comes with Letters posted
a number of minutes included. at a central
Orange, Vodafone, Movistar post office
and Yoigo are common suppliers, usually arrive in
and their products can be found reasonable
at El Corte Inglés stores (see p241) time; although A DHL delivery truck on a street in Seville
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
Movistar
∑ movistar.es
Orange
∑ orange.es
Phone House
∑ phonehouse.es
Vodafone
∑ vodafone.es
Yoigo
∑ yoigo.com
Kiosk selling newspapers and magazines
Internet
Addresses The local listings magazines Biblioteca Corredera
In speech, on maps and are the Giraldillo in Seville and Centro Cívico Centro, Plaza de
in written information, the Guía del Ocio in Granada la Corredera, s/n, Córdoba.
Spaniards often drop the Calle (see p244). FIND has complete Tel 957 49 68 82.
in street names, so that Calle cultural listings and nightlife Cybercafe Abakan
Mateos Gago becomes just for the Costa del Sol and La Calle Marcos 19, Almería.
Mateos Gago. Other terms, Tribuna, Córdoba’s weekly free
Locutorio Duquesa
such as Plaza (Pza), Callejón, sheet, publishes useful
Calle Duquesa, Granada.
Carretera (Ctra) and Avenida practical information. Málaga
(Avda), remain unchanged. has Qué Hacer/What’s On. Meeting Point
In addresses, a s/n (sin The online guide www. Plaza de la Merced 29, Málaga.
numéro) after the street name guiadelocio.com has current Starbucks
indicates that the building listings of events and activities Av Constitucion 11, Seville.
has no number. Outside towns, for all provinces of Spain. Tel 954 21 80 05.
an address may say “Carretera
Córdoba–Málaga km 47” – Postal services
this means the sight is on Television and Radio
General Information
the highway near to the In 2010, Spain eliminated the Tel 902 19 71 97.
kilometre sign. use of all analogue TV signals, ∑ correos.es
and changed completely to
digital TV as the standard signal, Almería
Newspapers and providing around 30 TV channels Calle San Juan Bosco 35.
Magazines for free. Two are state Tel 950 62 04 33.
The most important channels, TVE1 and TVE2, Córdoba
national papers are El País and the main private ones C/ José Cruz Conde 15.
(the socialist paper with a are Antena 3, Cuatro and Tel 957 49 63 42.
daily Andalusian Telecinco. In addition, Granada
version), ABC Andalusia has Canal Puerta Real 2.
(conservative), and El Sur and Canal 2 Tel 958 22 11 38.
Mundo (independent). Canal Sur logo Andalusia. Canal Plus
Málaga
Local papers such as is a cable TV company
Avenida de Andalucía (El
Ideal in Granada, Diario de showing films, sport and Corte Inglés).
Sevilla, the Córdoba Diario, documentaries. Subtitled Tel 952 36 43 80.
Almería Diario, or the Málaga foreign films are listed by the
Sur, have extensive listings of letters V.O. (Versión Original). Seville
local cultural and sporting The best radio news Avenida de la Constitución 32.
Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
activities. An English version of programmes are broadcast
Tel 954 22 47 60.
Sur is distributed free in Málaga, on Radio Nacional de España.
Granada, Almería and Cádiz on BBC World Service frequencies Couriers
Fridays or is viewable online at and listings can be found on
www.surinenglish.com. their website, www.bbc.co.uk/ DHL
The English paper Costa del Sol worldservice. With the Tel 902 12 24 24.
News can be purchased weekly in all-digital signal, most ∑ dhl.es
kiosks along the Málaga coast. programmes are available UPS
Almería province also has an in their original language Tel 902 88 88 20.
English newspaper, Costa Almería simply by changing the TV ∑ ups.com
News, published on Friday. language setting.
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264 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Andalusia is well served by a wide range of Seville and Málaga have good rail links,
transport. Each year sees the arrival of and the AVE high-speed train between major
thousands of flights, mostly from European cities will often be quicker than flying
countries, though some are from further (including checking-in time). There are
afield. Most flights from beyond Europe stop coaches from northern Europe and regional
in Madrid or Barcelona before arriving at services in Andalusia. Ferries sail from
Andalusia’s busiest airport, Málaga. Located a Plymouth and Portsmouth to Santander and
short plane or ferry ride from Morocco, Bilbao; with a 10-hour drive to Andalusia.
Málaga serves as a gateway to Africa. Seville Driving is not recommended in summer when
airport also caters to international flights. the number of cars on the road peaks.
servers to get the best deal, or

for a complete service visit your
local travel agent.
Almost all package deals to
Andalusia focus on beach
holidays. However, some tour
operators also offer city breaks,
which can be cheaper in the
winter. Tour Andalucia offers
small group tours originating in
One of Andalusia’s increasing number of biodiesel-fuelled buses Málaga and Euro Adventures
(EA Tours) offer food and wine
package holidays starting in Costa
Green Travel bring in thousands of holiday- del Sol, then following an itinerary,
In Andalusia, awareness about makers. Over-booking can be a travelling by coach along the
environmental issues is problem in summer and flights Costa del Sol to Seville, Córdoba,
improving. Recycling initiatives, are often delayed. Seville airport Granada and Cádiz. Low-cost
solar and wind energy, and is much less busy and is airlines also offer cheap deals.
biodiesel-fuelled buses are all convenient for travellers staying
on the rise. An efficient network inland. Granada and Almería
of public transportation makes offer limited domestic and Seville Airport
it fairly easy to get around international flights too. Seville airport is 4 km (2.5 miles)
Andalusia without a car. Trains north of the city centre. Iberia
and coaches are modern and and Air Europa fly to numerous
comfortable, with extensive Tickets and Fares domestic and international
and reliable services. Many Fares vary widely and peak travel destinations. Ryanair and
historic city centres have very depends on the destination: May, Vueling Airlines offer low-cost
limited access for vehicles, with June, September and October flights, and charter flights also
large pedestrianized zones, for Seville; June to August for operate out of Seville.
bicycle lanes and a bike hire the coast, and December to Los Amarillos runs a daily
scheme (see p273). February for the Sierra Nevada. bus service between Prado
Rural Andalusia has a large You can book directly through de San Sebastián and the
network of natural parks and an airline, or via online search airport, approximately every
trails as well as rivers and lakes engines such as www.kayak.co. 30 minutes from 4:30am to
for water sports, although uk or www.momondo.com, midnight. Taxis to or from the
depending on your itinerary a which compare numerous city centre cost €22–31.
car may be necessary.
Arriving by Air
Most of Europe’s major airlines,
as well as some Middle Eastern
and American lines, run
scheduled flights to Málaga,
Andalusia’s main airport. A large
portion of the traffic, however, is
made up of budget airlines and
cheap charter flights, which Seville airport, conveniently situated just outside the city
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 265
Almería Airport
DIRECTORY
Located 9 km (6 miles) west of
the city, Almería’s airport has Arriving by Air
limited facilities. Flights are Air Europa
offered to Barcelona, Madrid, ∑ aireuropa.com
Seville, Palma de Mallorca,
Brussels, Manchester and Melilla British Airways
with Air Europa, Air Berlin, BMI ∑ britishairways.com
Baby, Easyjet, Ryanair and BMI Baby
Monarch Airlines. ∑ bmibaby.com
Easyjet
Airport Car Hire ∑ easyjet.com
The major airports are well Iberia

served with international car ∑ iberia.com
hire companies such as AVIS, Monarch Airlines
Modern interior of the ticket hall, ATESA, Hertz and Europcar, as ∑ monarch.co.uk
Seville airport well as local companies.
Holiday Autos is a budget Ryanair
Málaga Airport ∑ ryanair.com
option, best booked online. Hire
Málaga airport has links to your car prior to your visit Vueling Airlines
about 120 international during high-season. Many UK ∑ vueling.com
destinations and receives travel agents are able to
around 10 million passengers organize fly-drive deals. Package Deals
each year. It is particularly busy Euro Adventures (EA Tours)
from June to September. ∑ euroadventures.net
Scheduled flights are available
from British Airways, Iberia, Tour Andalucia
Easyjet, Ryanair, Virgin, BMI ∑ tourandalucia.co.uk
Baby and Vueling.
The tren de cercanías (see
Car Hire
p266) runs into Málaga and Avis
down the coast to Fuengirola, ∑ avis.es
departing every 20 minutes
ATESA
from 6am to 11pm. An FRS fast ferry on the Tangier–
∑ atesa.es
The No. 19 bus, which runs Tarifa route
every 30 minutes from Europcar
6:30am to midnight, also Getting to North Africa ∑ europcar.es
travels into Málaga. Most nationalities need only a Hertz
valid passport to visit Morocco ∑ hertz.com
for a stay up to 90 days. For
Granada Airport further information contact the Holiday Autos
∑ holidayautos.co.uk
Granada’s airport is 17 km (10.5 Consulate of Morocco. Morocco
miles) southeast of the city on time is 1 hour behind Spain.
Getting to North Africa
the main road to Málaga. Acciona Trasmediterranea,
Facilities and flights are rather FRS and BALEARIA operate Consulate of Morocco
limited, but there are regular ferries from Algeciras to Ceuta; Camino de los Descubrimientos,
flights to Palma de Mallorca, FRS, Balearia and Direct Ferries Isla de la Cartuja, Seville.
Barcelona, and Madrid, as well run from Algeciras to Tangier. Tel 954 08 10 44.
as limited services to Melilla, FRS and Direct Ferries have Acciona Trasmediterranea
Milan and Bologna. There are fast ferries (35–45 mins) from ∑ trasmediterranea.es
car hire facilities in the terminal. Tarifa to Tangier. Acciona
Trasmediterranea runs from BALEARIA
Almería to Melilla in 8 hours. ∑ balearia.com
Gibraltar Airport FRS also has a high-speed Direct Ferries
This airport can be a useful Gibraltar–Tangier route. ∑ directferries.es
arrival point when visiting By air, Iberia, Royal Air Maroc
FRS
the southwest of Andalusia. (RAM), Air Europa and Air ∑ frs.es
Flights are operated by British Nostrum operate from
Airways, Monarch Airlines and Spain’s mainland to various Helicópteros Inaer
Easyjet, with services from destinations in North Africa. ∑ inaer.com
Heathrow, Gatwick, Luton and Helicópteros Inaer runs a Royal Air Maroc (RAM)
Manchester. The airport has helicopter shuttle service ∑ royalairmaroc.com
few amenities. between Málaga and Ceuta.
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266 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Train offering both day- and night-

time travel. Night trains offer
Owing to the natural bottleneck of the Pyrenees, train the option of private cabins
connections between Spain and the rest of Europe are a little with beds. Media distancias run
restricted. However, a subsidiary of Spain’s national network, daytime from city to city within
a limited area. Cercanías are
RENFE, runs a service that links Madrid and Barcelona to
commuter trains running from
France, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. RENFE offers routes large towns to the suburbs.
throughout the country, on a variety of trains, and at a high
level of service. The high-speed AVE (Tren de Alta Velocidad
Bookings and
Española) linking Seville, Córdoba and Madrid, and Málaga to Reservations
Madrid (via Córdoba) has cut down journey times by almost
Train tickets can be booked
half, and is extremely efficient. online or in travel agencies with
the RENFE logo. It is advisable to
book long-distance journeys in
advance; booking is essential if
you travel on public holidays
(días festivos) or long weekends
(puentes). You can book a ticket
up to 60 days in advance.
Alternatively, use an auto check-
in machine at major stations up
to 15 minutes before travelling.
Auto check-in machines can
also be used for making changes
to your scheduled itinerary.
Discounts are usually given for
advance bookings, last-minute
bookings and round trips.
AVE high-speed trains at Santa Justa railway station, Seville More information is available
on RENFE’s website.
Arriving by Train Train Travel in Spain
Trains coming from other The train network in Spain is very Tickets
European countries to Spain extensive with services suited to Train travel in Spain is fairly
terminate in either Madrid or every budget. Travelling on the reasonably priced. Larga
Barcelona. From Barcelona it AVE is the fastest option, with a distancia and media distancia
is about 5 hours to Seville by money-back guarantee that the have first and second class
high-speed AVE; from Madrid train will reach its destination no (preferente/turista). The tickets
it takes around 3 hours more than 5 minutes late. They on Spanish trains always show
travelling by AVE. have drastically cut their prices, a number for your seat (or bed
Andalusia’s most important now making them a very on sleepers). Tickets are sold
stations are Málaga, Seville’s attractive travel choice. online, at main line stations,
Santa Justa and Córdoba. Other long-distance train at some cercanías stations and
Connections to major services, known as larga in RENFE-authorized travel
Andalusian towns and distancia, are divided into agencies. Cercanías tickets may
with Barcelona and Madrid diurnos (daytime) and be bought in the ticket office
(including over 20 AVE nocturnos (night-time). Talgos or by using self-service
high-speed trains) run daily. trains are slightly more machines. Credit cards are
European and American rail luxurious and expensive, accepted at all stations.
passes, including EurRail and
Inter-Rail, are accepted on the
RENFE network, subject to the
usual conditions. However, on
certain trains you may find a
supplement is payable.
All major stations are
accessible to disabled
passengers. Passengers can
arrange in advance for
assistance in the station,
through RENFE’s subsidiary
company, Atendo. The ticket counter at Córdoba railway station
Spain’s Principal RENFE Network

San Juan
Ferrol de Nieva
A Coruña Gijón
Santander
Trubia Bilbao San Sebastián
Lugo Oviedo
Santiago de Compostela Vitoria
Pontevedra León
Pamplona Canfranc Puigcerdà
Ourense
Burgos Portbou
Tui Logroño Pobla de
Palencia Huesca Segur
Girona
Soria
Valladolid
Zaragoza Lleida
Zamora
Oporto
Barcelona
Salamanca Calatayud
Tarragona
Avila Guadalajara
Colmbra Plasencia MADRID Teruel
Cuefnca
Castellón
Cáceres Toledo
Key
Valencia
Lisbon Ciudad Real Main station
Badajoz Albacete Gandia
Mérida Major rail route
High-speed AVE route
Alicante
Córdoba AVE route under
Murcia
construction
Sevilla Jaén
Granada Aguilas Cartagena
Huelva
Faro
Málaga Almería Spain’s Rail Network operates a wide variety
Cádiz
Fuengirola of services. Study a RENFE brochure or train
Algeciras
timetable before you buy your ticket.
facilities. For lost property,

ask at the office marked
Atención al Cliente.
Bus stops and taxi ranks
are located in front of
the station.
Córdoba
Córdoba has a grand, modern
station. Located in the north-
west of the city, it is just a few
minutes by car or taxi to the
Santa Justa railway station, Seville city centre. The AVE to Madrid
takes just 2 hours; to Seville
Timetables tickets. The auto check-in 45 minutes. The station is well
The punctuality rating of trains machines allow you to print served with cafés, shops, auto
in Andalusia is quite high, out tickets reserved online. check-in machines and a
particularly for the AVE. Brochures Numerous amenities include tourist office. Outside, there
with prices and timetables are a café, tourist office, car hire are bus stops, a taxi rank and
distributed free and are easy agencies, shops, newsstands, car hire agencies. The coach
to follow. Information for ATMs and money-changing station is adjacent.
laborables (weekdays) and
sábados, domingos y festivos
(Saturdays, Sundays and public
holidays) is at the bottom of
the timetable.
Seville
Santa Justa is a modern and
user-friendly station, located
about 5 minutes by car or bus
from the city centre.
Use the self-service ticket
machines to buy cercanías Platforms at Córdoba railway station
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268 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Platform at Granada railway station
Granada the station will soon be linked Scenic Routes

Small and provincial, the station to major towns through a Travel by cercanías trains
in Granada is housed in an old Metro connection. offers some very scenic routes.
building and has few amenities. Málaga’s station has many The most remarkable is a
There is a small café-cum- amenities, including auto check- lengthy ride from Bobadilla (50
restaurant and a taxi rank in machines, luggage storage, minutes north of Málaga),
outside. Most trains that pass car-hire agencies and a tourist which heads south through
through are regional or office. Outside, there are bus gorges and mountains, passing
cercanías but long-distance stops and a taxi rank. A four-star through picturesque villages,
trains do run to Madrid, Seville, hotel and large shopping centre before arriving in Algeciras. It
the Costa Blanca, Barcelona, are conveniently attached. takes about 3 hours and costs
Almería, Córdoba and Málaga. from €18.10.
Storage lockers are available. A shorter ride, from Málaga to
Almería Fuengirola (30 minutes from the
Almería’s Estación Intermodal airport; 45 from Málaga station)
Málaga train and coach stations share provides stunning views of the
Málaga’s Maria Zambrano the same building. Direct Mediterranean from the
station expanded when the trains connect to Granada mountains above for just €2.85.
AVE line was added, making it and Seville; to reach Córdoba
the largest in Spain. There is a you will need to make a DIRECTORY
direct daily train to Barcelona connection in Granada; for
and a connection to Madrid Málaga, change at Antequera. Travelling By Train
(via Córdoba). There is also a The station is small, with RENFE Booking Agents
high-speed AVE line direct limited services such as a café, Tel 902 32 03 20.
to central Seville under bank, newsstand, some shops ∑ renfe.es
construction. A cercanías train and car hire agencies. Outside ∑ rumbo.es
connects to Málaga airport and are bus stops and a taxi rank.
Handicap Assistance
Atendo
Tel 902 24 05 05.
∑ renfe.com/viajeros/atendo
Almería
Plaza de la Estación s/n.
Córdoba
Glorieta de las Tres Culturas s/n.
Granada
Avenida de Andalucía s/n.
Málaga
Explanada de la Estación s/n.
Seville
Avenida Kansas City.
Map 2 F5 & 4 F1.
Málaga’s Maria Zambrano railway station at night
Travelling by Coach Málaga

Málaga coach station is located
The major coach links between Andalusia and the rest of in the centre of town, behind
Europe are with France, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland and the train station. Coaches
Austria. Within the region itself, coach travel is very popular depart daily to all of Spain, as
well as some international
and has improved enormously. Most coaches now run on bio- destinations. The station has a
diesel and most have air conditioning and toilet facilities. café, newsstand, shop, Internet
Travelling by coach is very economical and thanks to café and money exchange.
Andalusia’s improved roads, it can be quick and enjoyable. A taxi rank and bus stops are
However, around the many holidays in the Spanish festive located outside.
calendar, travelling can be difficult: coach stations tend to be
over-crowded, coaches slow to depart and the roads busy. Almería
Almería’s coach and train
stations share a building. It has
Arriving by Coach little in the way of amenities,
The major coach stations in but does provide transport to
Andalusia are in Seville, destinations across Andalusia
Córdoba, Granada, Málaga and Murcia.
and Almería. Coaches run
frequently between major DIRECTORY
cities and towns, and may
provide the only public Coach Stations
transport to and from small Almería
villages, offering a chance to Estación Intermodal
experience local regions. The main departure hall of Plaza de Armas Plaza de la Estación s/n.
coach station in Seville Tel 950 26 20 98.
Tickets and Reservations stations have a café and
Córdoba
Terminal Alsina Graells
Reservations for medium- to newsstand. At Plaza de Armas Glorieta de las Tres Culturas.
long-distance travel can be there is Metro and Metro-Centro Tel 957 40 40 40.
made at bus stations, online via (see p272) access outside.
Movelia (www.movelia.es), or on Granada
Terminal Alsina Graells Sur
the websites of individual bus
companies. You can buy tickets Córdoba Carretera de Jaén, Granada.
Tel 902 42 22 42.
on board regional buses, but The main coach station in
during peak seasons it is wise Córdoba is run by a regional Málaga
to purchase them in advance. branch of Alsa, Alsina Graells. Estación de Autobuses
Discounts are given for round- It is basic, with a small waiting Paseo de los Tilos.
Tel 952 35 00 61.
trip tickets and there may be area, café, newsstand and
online reductions. lockers. Coaches depart Seville
“Supra” coaches operated by regularly for Granada, Cádiz, Estación Plaza de Armas
Alsa on popular routes are Almería, Málaga and Seville. Plaza de Armas.
direct and boast leather seats, Map 1 B5 & 5 A2.
extra legroom, free Wi-Fi, and Tel 902 45 05 50.
on-board refreshments. Granada Prado de San Sebastián Estación
In Granada, travellers may be Map 4 D3.
Tel 954 41 71 11.
confused by the choice of
Seville coach companies, each with a Coach Companies
Seville has two coach stations variety of destinations. Alsa is
in the centre of town, Plaza de the largest coach company, and Alsa
Armas and Prado de San its station is referred to as the ∑ alsa.es
Sebastián. Buses from Prado central coach station. This station Damas
de San Sebastián head mainly offers routes all over Murcia and ∑ damas-sa.es
south, with destinations such as Andalusia. Coaches for Madrid
Leda
Cádiz, Jerez and Algeciras. Both leave from the main train station.
∑ leda.es
Socibus
∑ socibus.es
Transportes Generales
Comes
∑ tgcomes.es
Regional coach operated by the Alsa company
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270 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Road Signs
Driving in Andalusia Standard European road signs
Many of the main roads and motorways in Andalusia are new are used in Andalusia. However,
and in very good condition. The road network is continually signposting is often confusing
expanding, so always check a recently published map. Fold- and inconsistent, so be especially
attentive when navigating in or
out maps can be obtained at airports or tourist offices. You
out of cities. When leaving a
should also bear in mind that the number of accidents on town, scan the road for direction
Spanish roads is quite high, due to the confusion in road rules. signs to other towns. Some are
Always drive with caution, but particularly in July and August small and easily missed. If you
when the roads are packed with holiday-makers who do not need to change direction, look
know the area. When visiting towns and villages, it is best to for signs, which say Cambio de
Sentido. They generally lead to
park your vehicle away from the centre and then walk in. bridges or underpasses where
you can turn around.
Rules of the Road
In Spain people drive on the Local Drivers
right, so you must give way to Many drivers in Andalusia
the right. At intersections and ignore road signs and speed
roundabouts always proceed up at amber traffic lights. It is
with caution. common for drivers to come up
The speed limits are 50 km/h close to the car in front to signal
(30 mph) in built-up areas; that they want to overtake.
90–100 km/h (55–60 mph) Indicators are not necessarily
outside them and 120 k/h used by Spanish drivers, so be
(75 mph) on motorways. Seat alert to the movements of
belts are compulsory both in nearby vehicles.
the back and front; motor
cyclists must wear crash
helmets. Drivers must always Motorways
carry two warning triangles In Andalusia almost all the
and a reflective vest, as well motorways (autovías) are toll-
Typically narrow Andalusian street blocked as a first-aid kit. free; except for the A4 autopista
by a parked car
Road Signs in Andalusia

Arriving by Car
Look out for the following road signs:
Visitors bringing their own Peligro, indicating danger, Obras,
vehicles from other countries meaning roadworks ahead, Ceda el
will need documentation in Paso, showing that you should give
Spain. You should always make way and Cuidado, advising caution.
sure you have your driving
licence, vehicle registration
document and insurance. Your
insurance company should be
able to arrange an overseas
extension of your car insurance.
To hire a car in Spain you need a
current driving licence and be
over 18 years of age.
If you are travelling from the A road sign showing major Overhead sign indicating the
UK you will need your pink routes at a crossroads road is a motorway
plastic photocard and an
International Driving Permit,
which can be obtained from
the RAC or the AA.
Most Spanish motorways
are well equipped with an
SOS network of telephones,
which provide instant access
to the emergency and Be alert to the fact that bulls Warning of the likelihood
breakdown services. Ask for may be on the road of snow or ice
auxilio en carretera.
(toll motorway) that connects of the residents, this can make DIRECTORY
Seville and Cádiz, and the AP7 it quite stressful to drive.
along the Costa del Sol, which Additionally, parking access is Parking
has some sections with tolls. time-limited in Seville and Almería
When driving on the completely restricted to city Garage Belén
autopista, the toll booths are residents in some parts of Avenida Federico García Lorca 42.
at sporadic intervals. At the Granada’s centre. Tel 950 25 30 60.
booths a sign posts the Córdoba
corresponding fare. Drive into Aparcamientos Isolux Corsan
one of the lanes with a green Breakdown Services Córdoba S.L.
light indicating the method of If you break down, pull to a safe Avenida Custodios 2.
payment you wish to use. location at the side of the road. Tel 957 29 96 19.
Put on the reflective vest Granada
(required to be carried in your Parquigran
car at all times) and place one Plaza de San Agustín s/n.
reflective triangle in front and Tel 958 29 60 33.
another approximately 50 m Málaga
(165 ft) behind the car. If La Marina
necessary, call for assistance, Plaza de la Marina 4.
Tel 952 21 88 31.
from breakdown services
such as ADA, Europ Assistance Seville
or RACE. Aparcamientos Magdalena
Driving in the Sierra Nevada along one Méndez Núñez 1.
Tel 954 22 83 33.
of the highest roads in Europe
Parking
Breakdown Services
In Seville, on-street parking is
Driving in the extremely difficult to find and ADA
Countryside is metered for a maximum stay Tel 915 19 33 00.
∑ ada.es
Only head off the major “N” of 1–2 hours. The best option
roads (rutas nacionales) if you for visitors is a parking garage – Europ Assistance
are not in any hurry. Some of a few public garages operate, Tel 902 15 85 85
(outside Spain 34 915 149 900).
the minor roads in Andalusia otherwise some hotels offer ∑ europ-assistance.com
wind and climb, and their parking for guests.
surfaces will often be in poor There are few car parks in RACE
condition. In addition, although Córdoba and parking costs (affiliated to the RAC in the UK)
Tel 902 40 45 45.
diversions may be marked, €1.50-2.50 per hour in Seville,
when you take them you may Granada, Córdoba & Málaga. Car Rental
find they are inadequately
signposted. Taking a minor road Atesa
∑ atesa.es
may add hours to a journey.
Jerez (Cádiz) Airport
Tel 956 18 68 14.
Málaga
Buying Petrol Tel 952 35 65 50.
Many petrol stations in and Seville
around Andalusia still have Tel 954 41 26 40.
attendants. Petrol stations out Avis
of town tend to remain open 24 Logos for AVIS and Hertz, popular ∑ avis.es
hours a day. car rental companies Córdoba
At self-service stations you Tel 957 40 14 45.
Granada
generally have to pay for the
petrol before it is dispatched. Car Rental Tel 958 44 64 55.
Málaga
Gasoil (diesel) and sin plomo In all major cities, car hire agencies Tel 902 09 02 82.
(unleaded) are usually available. are mostly located near the Seville
Credit cards are widely accepted. airports, with some near train Tel 902 11 02 83.
stations. Cars can be returned to Hertz
the same location, or dropped ∑ hertz.es
Driving in Town off in another town, although Córdoba
Driving in the towns and cities there may be a surcharge for Tel 957 40 20 61.
of Andalusia can be difficult. The this. Local companies such as Granada
Tel 958 20 44 54.
centres of Seville and Córdoba Atesa, Avis and Hertz, provide
Málaga
have streets that are narrow, good bargains, but be wary of Tel 952 35 50 40.
labyrinthine and hard to anyone asking for a large credit Seville
negotiate in a car. Coupled with card deposit. Most rental cars are Tel 954 51 47 20.
the often inconsiderate driving manual; automatics cost more.
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272 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around
Towns and Cities
Many of Andalusia’s cities, towns and villages have small,
historic centres, characterized by narrow streets and tiny
squares. Walking is an excellent and practical way of getting
Typical circulares bus, operating
around the sights, especially as entry by car is restricted to
around Seville
residents in parts of many towns. For the same reason, city
buses are generally not much good for travelling between In Granada, buses are less useful
monuments, but they are useful to get to shopping areas or except for Nos. 31, 32 and 34,
from your hotel into the centre of town. Buses are very cheap, which run from the centre of
clean and safe, and generally only crowded at rush hours. the city to Albaicín, Alhambra
and Sacromonte.
In Córdoba the Nos. 3 and
16 take passengers from the
historic area to the more
commercial centre of the city.
Málaga’s L3 services the town
hall area and train station, while
in Almería the No. 1 bus
operates around the Old Town.
Metro
Seville’s Metro system was
designed to aid transport be-
Guided tour visiting the Patio de las Doncellas at Seville’s Real Alcázar tween the outer areas of Seville
and the city centre. Line 1 is
Walking monuments. They take up to useful for getting from the
In many Andalusian towns, four people and cost from historical centre (Puerta Jerez)
major sights are often only a €35–45 for 40 minutes. For tours to shopping centers (Nervión or
short walk from where you are on foot, consult local tourist Ciudad Expo’s MetroMar). The
likely to be staying – at most offices about multilingual system will eventually consist
just a short bus or taxi ride walking and cultural tours with of four Metro lines, which will
away. One of the joys of El Legado Andalusi. provide easy access to bus and
Andalusia’s cities is to lose In Seville, Bici 4 City can rent train stations and include a line
yourself in their narrow streets you a bike that comes complete to the airport (Line 4).
and to stumble upon the sights with an MP3 guided tour. Place your card (see Tickets
as you go. A more relaxing section) over the reader to
Drivers in Spain option is a cruise up pass through barriers, and press
tend not to respect the Guadalquivir the green button by the train
pedestrians, even River on a riverboat, door to open it. On-board
where pedestrians with spectacular overhead monitors announce
have the right of views of the city. the stops.
way. Crossings with Open-topped
pedestrian signals Red signal for wait; green double-decker City
often have only a for walk with care Sightseeing buses Metro-Centro
flashing amber light offer hop-on-hop-off The Metro-Centro tram opened
showing to oncoming drivers, tours complete with audio in 2008 in Seville city centre.
even when the signal guides, available in Seville, It provides climate-controlled,
pedestrians see shows a green Granada, Cádiz and Málaga. rapid transport between San
man; therefore it is advisable to Bernardo station and Plaza
be very cautious. Nueva in an otherwise
City Buses pedestrian-only zone. Other
City buses are most useful for lines are planned over the next
Guided Tours getting to outlying sights few years, extending the
There is no better way to soak because the historical centres network to Puerta Osario and
up the ambience of Andalusia’s are mostly pedestrianized. In Santa Justa train station.
fine cities than from the seat of Seville, the useful lines for Pay at the machine at tram
an old-fashioned, horse-drawn visitors are the circulares, stops (or pass your card over
carriage. Drivers wait in line numbered C1 to C6, which run the reader on board); press the
with their carriages near major around the city centre. green button to open the door.
Stops are announced on overhead DIRECTORY

monitors. Metro-Centro trams
pass every 3–5 minutes and Guided Tours
stop briefly at all stops. City Sightseeing
∑ city-sightseeing.com
Tickets El Legado Andalusi

∑ legadoandalusi.es
A billete sencillo or univiaje
(single ticket) can be purchased City Buses
on buses, but be sure to carry Standard, white Seville taxi, with its logo ALMERÍA
small change. and official number
In Seville, the tarjeta multiviaje Surbus
Calle Freniche s/n.
(multi-trip pass) and tarjeta finding one, day or night. Tel 950 62 47 35.
turística (1–3 day pass) are Taxis are always white and have ∑ surbus.com
valid on all TUSSAM means of a logo on the doors, which
CÓRDOBA
transport (city bus, airport displays their official number.
bus and Metro-Centro). Drivers rarely speak any English, Aucorsa
Plaza de Colón s/n.
Cards can be purchased and so learn enough Spanish to Tel 957 47 64 50.
topped up at newsstands or explain where you are going. ∑ aucorsa.es
Tussam information kiosks, and The meter marks up the basic
GRANADA
are also rechargeable at Metro fare; however, supplements are
and Metro-Centro stops. Metro added for tarifa nocturna (night- Transportes Rober
cards can be purchased in the time driving), maletas (luggage) Acera del Darro 30.
entrance of stations and are for or días festivos (public holidays). Tel 958 22 00 45.
∑ transportesrober.com
use exclusively on the Metro. If you are in doubt of the correct
price, ask for the tarifas (tariff list). MÁLAGA
EMT
Camino de San Rafael 97.
Cycling Tel 902 52 72 00.
∑ emtmalaga.es
There are cycle lanes in most
cities. Seville has pedestrianized SEVILLE
a main throughfare in the centre, Autobuses Urbanos Tussam
creating a wide promenade, Avenida de Andalucia II.
which allows for bikes. Helmets Map 4 D3. Tel 902 45 99 54.
are recommended. ∑ tussam.es
SEVICI is a self-service bike Metro
rental programme in Seville, with
2,500 bikes available 24 hours a Metro
day. Bikes can be hired free for ∑ metro-sevilla.es
30 minutes and are charged per Metro-Centro
hour after that. A €150 credit ∑ tussam.es
Tarjeta multiviaje and tarjeta turística card deposit is paid and
electronic passes refunded on return of the bike.
Taxis
Motorists tend to treat cyclists Almería
as a nuisance and city traffic can Tele-Taxis Tel 950 25 11 11.
Taxis be dangerous for cyclists. Córdoba
Spanish towns and cities are Andalucian Cycling Experience Radio Taxi Tel 957 76 44 44.
generously supplied with taxis, offer trails into the country on Granada
so there is not usually a problem mountain bikes. Tele Radio Taxi Tel 958 28 06 54.
Málaga
UniTaxi Tel 952 33 33 33.
Seville
Tele-Taxis Tel 954 62 22 22.
Cycling
Andalucian Cycling
Experience
∑ andaluciancycling
experience.com
Bici 4 City
∑ bici4city.com
SEVICI
∑ sevici.es
Bicycles lined up ready for hire at SEVICI docking stations, Seville
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274 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Almería (cont.) Autumn in Andalusia 40
main entries restaurants 236 AVE (Tren de Alta Velocidad
Almería (province) see Granada Española) 266, 267
A and Almería Averroes of Córdoba 51
Abd al Rahman I 50 Almohads The Axarquia 185
Alcazaba (Málaga) 185 architecture 26 Ayamonte 130
Mezquita (Córdoba) 148 Moorish Conquest 50, 51 Ayuntamiento (Arcos de la
Abd al Rahman II 50, 148 Reconquest 52 Frontera) 179
Abd al Rahman III 50–51 Almonte Ayuntamiento (Carmona) 136–7
Alcazaba (Almería) 206 restaurants 230 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 29, 78–9,
Córdoba 146 Almoravids 50, 51 110
Medina Azahara 142–3 Almuñécar 193 Azulejos 26, 80
Abul Hasan, Sultan 202 festivals 41
Accommodation see Hotels Álora 182 B
Acero, Vicente de 204 Las Alpujarras 15, 54, 189, 200– Babaloo Beach 37
Acinipo 179 201 Baelo Claudia 173
Addresses, Spanish 263 Las Alpujarras tour 204–5 Baena 151
Admission charges 254–5 Amadeo, King 57 festivals 38
Aguilar 151 American Legation (Tangier) 175 Baetica 48
Air sports 249, 251 Al Andalus 50–51 Baeza 15, 156–7
Air travel 264–5 Andújar 155 hotels 217
Airlines 264, 265 festivals 38 restaurants 231
Airports 264–5 Animals see Wildlife Street-by-street map 156–7
Alameda de Hércules (Seville) 13, Añora 143 Bailén
92 Antequera 14, 183 Battle of (1808) 57
Alba, Dukes of 90, 209 Antiques shops 241 restaurants 231
Albaicín (Granada) Apéritifs 227 Baixeres, Dionisio
Street-by-Street map 196–7 Apes, Gibraltar 177 The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Alcalá de Guadaíra Aposeosis de Santo Tomás de 50–51
hotels 217 Aquino (Zurbarán) 71 El Balcón de Europa (Nerja) 184
Alcalá la Real 154 Aquariums: Banderilleros 31
Alfonso VIII, King 155 Aquarium (Roquetas de Mar) Banking 260–61
Alfonso X the Wise, King 208 Baños del Alcázar Califales
Arcos de la Frontera 179 Selwo Marina (Benalmádena) (Córdoba) 144, 146
Cantigas 52 246, 247 Baños Arabes (Jaén) 152
Iglesia de Santa Ana (Seville) Aracena 130 Baños de la Encina 125, 155
107 hotels 217 El Bañuelo (Granada) 195, 197
Iglesia de Santa María de la Arches, Moorish 27 Baras, Sara 33
Oliva (Lebrija) 136 Archez 185 Barbate 172–3
Medina Sidonia 172 Archidona 183 Baroque architecture 29
Reconquest 52 Architecture Los Barrios
sign of Seville 79 azulejos 26, 80 restaurants 234
Alfonso XI, King 146 early 20th century 59 Bartolomé de Jaén, Maestro
Alfonso XII, King 57 Moorish 26–7 Baeza Cathedral screen 157
Alfonso XIII, King 58 Moorish Revival 58 Capilla Real (Granada) 194
Hotel Alfonso XIII (Seville) 100 Patios of Córdoba 150 Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda)
Algeciras Post-Moorish 28–9 158
festivals 39 Sevillian bell towers 94–5 Capilla de San Andrés (Jaén)
restaurants 232 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, 76, 153
Alhama de Granada 192 84–5 Basílica de la Macarena (Seville)
Alhambra (Granada) 125, 190, Arcos de la Frontera 13, 124, 178, 13, 93
198–9 179 Baza 204–5
architecture 27 hotels 218 festivals 40
Generalife 202 restaurants 232 Beaches 36–7
Patio de los Leones 199 El Arenal (Seville) 67–73 Beato de Liébana 50
Puerta de la Justicia 44 area map 67 Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo 102
Aljaraque hotels 216 Bed and breakfast 214–15
restaurants 230 restaurants 228 Beer 226
Almería 15, 189, 206–7 Street-by-street map 68–9 Belalcázar 143
festivals 39, 43 Arévalo, Luis de 195 Belalcázar, Sebastián de 143
hotels 219 Arts and crafts shops 241 Bell towers, Seville 94–5
map 207 ATMs 260 Bélmez 142
GENERAL INDEX 275
Benahavis Cádiz (cont.) Carthage 46, 47, 48

restaurants 232 festivals 40, 41, 43 Carthusians
Benalmádena 186 history 45, 47, 54, 58 Monasterio de Santa María de
Benaojan hotels 218 las Cuevas (Seville) 109
restaurants 232 restaurants 232–3 La Cartuja (Seville) 105, 108
Berbers 51, 174 Cádiz and Málaga 163–87 hotels 216
Bernadet, Fernando 107 Exploring Cádiz and Málaga Cartuja ’93 (Seville) 108
Bicycles 273 164–5 Casa de la Condesa Lebrija
Bienal de Arte Flamenco (Seville) hotels 218–19 (Seville) see Palacio de Lebrija
40, 244, 247 restaurants 232–6 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 12, 80, 81
Birds see Wildlife Caesar, Julius 48 Casa de los Tiros (Granada) 194–5
Bizet, Georges 100 La Calahorra 189, 203 Casares
Blood Wedding (Lorca) 209 Calle Betis (Seville) 12, 111 restaurants 233
Boabdil, Sultan Calle de la Feria (Seville) 90 Casas Viejas 59
Alhambra (Granada) 199 Calle Mateos Gago (Seville) 77 Cash machines 260
fall of Granada 52–3 Calle Pelay y Correa (Seville) 107, Castellar de la Frontera 173
imprisonment in Lucena 151 111 hotels 218
sword 194 Calle Rodrigo de Triana (Seville) Castillo de Colomares
Bodegas 106, 111 (Benalmádena) 186
Jerez de la Frontera 166, 167 Calle Sierpes (Seville) 12, 78, 110 Castles and fortresses
Montilla 151 Calléjon del Agua (Seville) 77 Alcazaba (Almería) 51, 206
El Puerto de Santa María 167 Camarón de La Isla 33 Alcázar (Jerez de la Frontera)
Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 Camera Oscura (Seville) 93 166
Bolonia 37 Camp sites 214, 215 Alcázar de Rey Pedro (Carmona)
Bolshevik Triennium 59 La Campana (Seville) 137
Bonaparte, Joseph 56, 57 hotels 216 Baños de la Encina 155
Bormujos Campiña 139 Belalcázar 143
restaurants 230 Campo, Juan del 194 Bélmez 142
Bourbon kings 56–7 Canales, Antonio 33 La Calahorra 189, 203
Breakdown services 271 Cano, Alonso 155, 194 Castillo de Almodóvar del Río
Breakfast 220 El Cano, monument to 98 142
Brenan, Gerald 203, 205 Los Caños de Meca 37, 173 Castillo Arabe (Álora) 182
Bronze figures, Iberian 46–7 hotels 218 Castillo Arabe (Antequera) 183
Bubión 15, 203 Capileira 15, 203 Castillo Arabe (Salobreña) 193
restaurants 236 Capilla see Churches Castillo de Gibralfaro (Málaga)
Buddhist stupa (Benalmádena) Caravanning 214, 215 185
186 Carboneras Castillo de Guzman el Bueno
Bullfighting 21, 30–31, 246, 247 restaurants 236 (Tarifa) 173
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Carlist Wars 56, 57 Castillo de Niebla (El Condado)
(Seville) 30, 68, 72, 246 Carlos I, King see Carlos V, 133
Ronda 181 Emperor Castillo San Marcos (El Puerto
Bulls, safety 258 Carlos II, King 55 de Santa María) 167
Bureau de change 260 Carlos III, King 56, 84 Castillo de San Miguel
Buses 272, 273 Carlos IV, King 56 (Almuñécar) 193
El Buzo (Seville) 69 Carlos V, Emperor (King Carlos I) Castillo de Santa Catalina (Jaén)
Byron, Lord 168 Palacio Carlos V (Granada) 29, 152
195, 199 Castillo de Vélez Blanco 205
C Puerto de Jaén y Arco de Villalar Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla)
Cabello, Luis 195 (Baeza) 157 160
Cable cars Real Alcázar (Seville) 86 Fortaleza de la Mota (Alcalá la
Teleférico Benalmádena 246, Seville’s Golden Age 54 Real) 154
247 Carmen 100 La Iruela (Cazorla) 160
Cabo de Trafalgar 172, 173 Royal Tobacco Factory (Seville) Kasbah (Tangier) 174
Cabopino 37 56, 57 Melilla La Vieja 175
Cabra 140, 151 Carmona 136–7 San Sebastián fort (Cádiz) 171
festivals 39 hotels 217 Segura de la Sierra 160
Cadiar 205 restaurants 230 see also Palaces
festivals 40 Los Carnavales 41, 43, 168 Cathedrals
Cádiz 13, 14, 168–71 La Carolina 155 Almería 206
A 90-Minute Walk Around Cars Baeza 157
Historic Cádiz 170–71 driving in Andalusia 270–71 Cádiz 124, 168, 171
1812 Constitution 56–7, 170 hiring 265, 271 Córdoba 138, 148–9
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276 GENERAL INDEX
Cathedrals (cont.) Churches (cont.) Columbus, Christopher (cont.)

Granada 194 Iglesia de la Asunción (Palma La Cartuja (Seville) 105
Guadix 29, 204 del Río) 142 Castillo de Colomares
Jaén 125, 152 Iglesia de la Asunción (Priego (Benalmádena) 186
Jerez de la Frontera 166 de Córdoba) 154 Fiestas Colombinas 39
Málaga 184 Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville) Huelva 131
Seville 12, 76, 82–3 72, 95, 111 Monasterio de la Rábida 131
Catholic Church 23, 255 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Monasterio de Santa María de
Catholic Monarchs see Fernando O (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) 28, las Cuevas (Seville) 109
II of Aragón; Isabel of Castilla 166 monument to (Seville) 85
Caves Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Palos de la Frontera 127, 132
cave paintings 46 O (Seville) 109 sails to America 52, 53
Cueva de los Leteros 205 Iglesia de San Hermenegildo Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166
Cueva de los Murciélagos 46 (Seville) 94 ships 53
Cuevas de Nerja 184 Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Seville) statue of (Punta del Sebo) 131
Cuevas de la Pileta 47, 179 81, 95 tomb of 83
Gruta de la Maravillas 130 Iglesia de San Marcos (Seville) Comares 185
St Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar) 177 28, 91, 94 Communications 262–3
Cayón, Gaspar 204 Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda) Cómpeta 185
Cazalla de la Sierra 136 158–9 Concurso Nacional de Flamenco
hotels 217 Iglesia de San Pedro (Seville) 90, (Córdoba) 38
Cazorla 141, 160 94, 95 El Condado 133
hotels 217 Iglesia de Santa Ana (Granada) Constantina 136
restaurants 231 28, 196 Constitution (1812) 56–7, 170
Cecilio, San 197 Iglesia de Santa Ana (Seville) Consulates 254, 257
Celts 46, 47 107, 109, 111 Convents see Monasteries and
Cerámica Santa Ana (Seville) 106, Iglesia de Santa Catalina convents
239, 241 (Seville) 91, 95 Conversion chart 257
Ceramics Iglesia de Santa María la Córdoba 14–15, 144–50
azulejos 80 Coronada (Medina Sidonia) 172 entertainment 244–7
Triana (Seville) 106 Iglesia de Santa María de la festivals 38, 39, 42–3
What to Buy in Andalusia 242 Oliva (Labrija) 136 hotels 217–18
Certamen Internacional de Iglesia del Salvador (Seville) 79 map 147
Guitarra Classica Andrés Iglesia San Ildefonso (Jaén) 153 Mezquita 14, 124, 138, 145,
Segovia (Almuñécar) 41 Iglesia San Jorge (Palos de la 148–9
Cervantes, Miguel de Frontera) 132 Moorish conquest 50–51
Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84 Iglesia San Juan Bautista patios 150
Corral de los Olmos 84 (Hinojosa del Duque) 142 restaurants 231–2
Don Quixote 55 Oratorio de San Felipe Neri shops 239, 241
imprisonment 78 (Cádiz) 169, 171 Street-by-Street map 144–5
Ceuta 175 Santa María de los Reales transport 267–9, 272, 273
Charco de la Pava Flea Market Alcázares (Úbeda) 158 Córdoba and Jaén 139–61
(Seville) 108, 240 Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza Exploring Córdoba and Jaén
Children 155 140–41
clothes shops 241 Templo San Juan (Almería) 206 hotels 217–18
entertainment for 246, 247 visiting 255 restaurants 231–2
in restaurants 221 Churrigueresque architecture 29 Córdoban Caliphate 26
Chipiona 166 Cinemas see Film El Cordobés 142
Chocolate, drinking 227 Civil War 45, 58–9, 155 Cornejo, Pedro Duque 109, 149
Christians, Reconquest 52–3 Classical music 245, 247 Coronel, Doña María 95
Churches Claudius, Emperor 173 Corpus Christi 39, 43
Basílica de la Macarena (Seville) Climate 39–41 Corral del Carbón (Granada) 194
13, 93 Clothes Corrida Goyesca (Ronda) 40, 181
Capilla de los Marineros (Seville) in churches 255 Cortés, Hernán 101
107 in restaurants 220 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84
Capilla Real (Granada) 15, shops 241 conquers Mexico 54
194 Coach travel 269 Cortés, Captain Santiago 155
Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda) Cobos, Francisco de los 158 Cortes de la Frontera
158 Coffee 227 hotels 218
Capilla de San Andrés (Jaén) Coín Costa de Almería 37
152–3 restaurants 233 Costa de la Luz 36, 163, 173
Capillita del Carmen (Seville) Coja, Paquita la 209 Costa del Sol 39, 187
107 Columbus, Christopher 101, 131, beaches 36, 37, 163
Ermita de Nuestra Señora del 192 golf 37, 249, 251
Rocío 133 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84 history 60, 61
GENERAL INDEX 277
Costa del Sol (cont.) Entertainment (cont.) Festival Internacional de Jazz

landscape 24 rock, pop and jazz 245, 247 (Granada) 40
Costa Natura 37 theatre 244, 247 Festival Internacional de Música y
Costa Tropical 36, 193 Equestrian sports 248–9, Danza (Granada) 39, 245
Coto Doñana see National parks 251 Festival Internacional de Teatro y
Courier services 262, 263 Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Danza (Seville) 38
Credit cards 260 Rocío 133 Festival de Música Antigua
in hotels 214 Estepa 137 (Seville) 41
lost 258 Estepona 187 Festival de los Patios (Córdoba)
in restaurants 221 restaurants 233 38, 42–3, 150
in shops 238 Etiquette 255 Festivals 38–43
Crime 258 Expo ’92 45, 60, 61, 105, 108, 109 Fiesta de San Marcos (Ohanes) 38
Cristo de la Expiración (Orgiva) 38 Fiesta de la Vendemia (La Palma
Cuban War 58 F del Condado) 40
Cueva see Caves Fadrique, Infante Don 92 Fiesta de los Verdiales (Málaga)
Culture 22–3 Falange 58, 59 41
Currency 61, 261 Falconete, Pedro Sánchez 73 Fiesta del Vino (Cadiar) 40
Cycling 248, 251, 273 The Fall of Granada (Vigarney) Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen 39
52–3 Fiestas 30, 38–43
D Falla, Manuel de 58, 171 Fiestas Colombinas (Huelva) 39
Dalí, Salvador 187 tomb of 168 Fiestas de la Exaltación del Río
Dance see Flamenco Fashion shops 241 Guadalquivir (Sanlúcar de
Department stores 238, 241 Felipe II, King 54, 85 Barrameda) 39
Desfiladero de Despeñaperros Felipe III, King 55 Figueroa, Antonio Matías de 100
139, 155 Felipe IV, King 55 Figueroa, Leonardo de
Día de la Cruz (Córdoba/Granada) Felipe V, King 56 Hospital de los Venerables
38, 42 Felipe el Hermoso 194 (Seville) 85
Día de Reyes 41 Feria de Abril (Seville) 38, 42, 60 Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville)
Día de la Toma (Granada) 41 Feria de Almería 39, 43 72
Dialling codes 262 Feria del Caballo (Jerez de la Iglesia del Salvador (Seville)
Díaz, Daniel Vásquez 131 Frontera) 38 79
Disabled travellers 256, 257 Feria de Málaga 39, 43 Iglesia de Santa Catalina
in hotels 214, 215 Feria de Mayo (Córdoba) 38 (Seville) 95
in restaurants 221 Feria de Pedro Romero (Ronda) Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville)
Domes, Moorish 26 40 71
Don Carlos (beach) 37 Fernández, Alejo 109 Film 245, 247
Don Juan 73 Fernando II of Aragón Festival de Cine Iberoamericano
Doñana, Parque Nacional de 25, Alcazaba (Almería) 206 (Huelva) 40
127, 134–5 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos spaghetti westerns 208
Drake, Sir Francis 54, 168 (Córdoba) 146 Finis Gloriae Mundi (Valdés Leal)
Drinks see Food and drink and Christopher Columbus 131 73
Driving licences 270 death 54 Fino 226
Las Dunas 37 festivals 41 First aid 258, 259
Granada Cathedral 194 First Republic 57
E marriage 53 Fishing 248, 251
Écija 137 Real Chancillería (Granada) 196 Flamenco 21, 32–3, 244, 247
Egas, Enrique de 143, 194 Reconquest 52, 192 Bienal de Arte Flamenco 40,
Eisenhower, Dwight D. 60 Santa Fé 192 244
El Ejido 25 tomb of 15, 194 Jerez Annual Flamenco Festival
Electrical adaptors 257 Fernando III, King 41
Embassies 257 Castillo de Santa Catalina (Jaén) Museo del Baile Flamenco
Emergency numbers 258, 259 152 (Seville) 79
Entertainment 244–7 conquers Baeza 156 shops 241
booking tickets 244, 247 Córdoba 146 Flores, Rosario 245
bullfighting 246, 247 Reconquest 52 FOCUS (Fundación Fondo de
for children 246, 247 statue of (Seville) 78 Cultura de Sevilla) 85
cinema 245, 247 Fernando VI, King 56 Folk music 245
flamenco 244, 247 Fernando VII, King 56, 57 Food and drink
folk music 245 Ferries, to North Africa 265 Andalusian cuisine 220
football 246, 247 Festival de Cine Iberoamericano Flavours of Andalusia 222–3
nightlife 245, 247 (Huelva) 40 markets 240
opera and classical music 245, Festival de la Guitarra (Córdoba) sherry 34–5
247 39 shops 241
outdoor activities 248–51 Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro tapas 222, 224–5
practical information 244, 247 (Cádiz) 40 What to Buy in Andalusia 243
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278 GENERAL INDEX
Food and drink (cont.) Granada (cont.) Hotels 212–19

What to Drink in Andalusia shopping 240, 241 booking and checking in 213
226–7 transport 268, 269, 272, 273 Cádiz and Málaga 218–19
see also Restaurants Granada and Almería 189–209 Córdoba and Jaén 217–18
Football 246, 247 Exploring Granada and Almería disabled travellers 214, 215
Ford, Richard 21, 100, 227 190–91 grading and facilities 212–13
Forestier, Jean-Claude 102 hotels 219 Granada and Almería 219
Fortresses see Castles and restaurants 236–7 Huelva and Sevilla 217
fortresses Granados, José 79 paradors 213, 214
Franco, General Francisco Grand Socco (Tangier) 174 paying in 214
and Cádiz 168 Grapes, sherry 35 prices 213
Civil War 58, 59 Grazalema 178 Seville 216
death 45, 60, 61 festivals 39 where to look 212
World War II 60 hotels 218 Hoyos, Cristina 40
Frigiliana 185 El Greco 155 Huelva 131
Fuengirola 186 Greeks, ancient 46, 47 festivals 39, 40, 42
restaurants 233 Green travel 264 restaurants 230
Fuente Agria 204 Gruta de la Maravillas 130 Huelva and Sevilla 127–37
Fuente Obejuna 142 Guadalquivir, River 68, 110 Exploring Huelva and Sevilla
Fuente de Piedra 182–3 bridges 60–61 128–9
Guadix 189, 204 hotels 217
G Cathedral 29 restaurants 230–31
Galleries see Museums and Guided tours 272 Huercal Almería
galleries Guitars, Spanish 32, 239, 243 restaurants 237
García, Esteban 79 Guzmán, Fernando Gómez de Humeya, Aben 205
Garcilaso de la Vega 151 142 Hungry Years 60
Gardens see Parks and gardens Guzmán el Bueno 110, 173
Garganta del Chorro 163, 182 Gypsies 32, 197, 258 I
Gaucín 13, 14, 178 Ibero-American Exposition (1929)
restaurants 233 H 59, 97, 98, 100, 101, 102
Gay and lesbian travellers 256, Habsburg dynasty 45 Iglesia see Churches
257 Hadrian, Emperor 48, 101 Immigration 254
Generalife (Granada) 202 birthplace 136 Los Infiernos 192
Gerena Al Hakim II 50, 146, 148, 155 La Inmaculada (Valdés Leal) 70
restaurants 230 Hannibal 152 La Inmaculada Concepción
Gibraltar 176–7 Health 258–9 (Seville) 41
airport 265 Henry II of Trastámara 52, 53 Inquisition 55
Great Siege of (1779–83) 56 Herbs and spices 243 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
history 46, 56 Hercules 168, 169 (Córdoba) 146
hotels 218 Hermenegildo, St 94 autos-da-fé 55, 78
restaurants 233 Hernández, Rafel Rodríguez 93 expulsion of Moors 54
World War II 60 La Herradura 37 headquarters 109
La Giralda (Seville) 12, 54, 76, 82 Herrera, Francisco de 95 Ronda 180
Golden Age, Seville 54–5 Herrera, Juan de 29, 84 Insurance
Golf 37, 249, 251 Hinojosa del Duque 142 car 270
González, Anibal 102, 107 Hiring cars 265, 271 health 259
González, Felipe 60, 61 History 45–61 travel 258, 259
González, Gutiérrez 153 Holidays, public 41 Internet 262, 263
Gothic architecture 28 Holy Roman Empire 54 Interpreters 259
Goya y Lucientes, Francisco José Homo sapiens 45, 46 Inurria, Mateo 146
de Horse-drawn carriages 76, 102, Irving, Washington 77, 197
Corrida Goyesca (Ronda) 40 272 Alhambra apartments
El Gran Capitán 195 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) 69, (Granada) 199
Granada 15, 194–7 73 Tales of the Alhambra 57
airport 265 Hospital de la Reina (Alhama de Isabel II, Queen 56, 57
Albaicín Street-by-Street map Granada) 192 Isabel of Castilla
196–7 Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda) Alcazaba (Almería) 206
Alhambra 190, 198–9 159 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
entertainment 244–7 Hospital de los Venerables (Córdoba) 146
festivals 38–41, 43 (Seville) 12, 77, 85 and Christopher Columbus 131
Generalife 202 Hospitals 259 death 54
hotels 219 Hotel Alfonso XIII (Seville) 99, 100 festivals 41
map 195 Hotel Balneario (Alhama de Granada Cathedral 194
Reconquest 52–3 Granada) 192 Iglesia de la Encarnación
restaurants 236–7 Hotel Continental (Tangier) 175 (Alhama de Granada) 192
GENERAL INDEX 279
Isabel of Castilla (cont.) Lawyers 259 Maps (cont.)

marriage 53 Leandro, San 49 Almería 207
Real Alcázar (Seville) 86 Lebrija 136 Las Alpujarras tour 204–5
Real Chancillería (Granada) 196 Lee, Laurie 163, 187, 193 Andalusia at a glance 124–5
Reconquest 52 Legal assistance 259 Baeza 156–7
Santa Fé 192 Leone, Sergio 208 beaches 36–7
tomb of 15, 194 Libraries Cádiz and Málaga 164–5
Isabelline architecture 28 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, Civil War 58
Isicio, San 160 84–5 Córdoba and Jaén 140–41
Isidoro, San 49 La Linea de la Concepción 177 Discovering Seville 10–11
Isla Cristina 130 restaurants 234 early Andalusia 46
festivals 41 Loja 192 Granada 195
hotels 217 hotels 219 Granada: Albaicín 196–7
restaurants 230 restaurants 237 Granada and Almería 190–91
Isla Mágica (Seville) 108, 246 Lopéz, Julian (El Juli) 31 Greater Seville 18
La Isleta 209 Lorca, Federico García 30 Huelva and Sevilla 128–9
Itálica 124, 127, 136 Blood Wedding 209 Jaén 153
Roman remains 48–9 death 59 Jerez de la Frontera 167
Yerma 59 Landscape of Andalusia 24–5
J Lost property 258 Moorish domain (800) 50
Jabugo 130 Lucena 151 Moorish domain (1350) 52
restaurants 231 Lucía, Paco de 32 Parque Nacional de Doñana
Jaén 15, 125, 139, 152–3 Lunes de Toro (Grazalema) 39 134–5
festivals 42–3 Lynxes 135 present-day Andalusia 60
hotels 218 Pueblos Blancos tour 178–9
map 153 M Rail network 267
parador 152 La Macarena (Seville) 13, 89–95 Roman Spain 48
restaurants 232 area map 89 Ronda 180–81
Jaén (province) see Córdoba hotels 216 Seville 18–19
and Jaén restaurants 229 Seville: Across the River 105
Jamete, Esteban 158 Street-by-Street map 90–91 Seville: El Arenal 67, 68–9
Jamón ibérico (ham) 130 Machado, Antonio 156 Seville: Around the Universidad
Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 13, Maeda, Asensio de 93 98–9
85 Maestranza Seville: at a Glance 64–5
Jazz 245, 247 hotels 216 Seville: La Macarena 89, 90–91
Jerez de la Frontera 14, 166 Maestranza Bullring (Seville) see Seville: Parque María Luisa 97
bodegas 167 Plaza de Torros de la Seville: Santa Cruz 75
equestrian sports 249 Maestranza Seville: Santa Cruz Street-by-
festivals 38, 41 Magazines 263 Street 76–7
restaurants 233 listings 244 Seville: Street Finder 112–21
Jews 51 Magellan, Ferdinand 54, 98 Seville: Triana 106–7
Córdoba 144 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 sherry regions 34
Jimena de la Frontera 13, 14, 173, Maimónides 51 Sierra Morena tour 142–3
178 statue of (Córdoba) 146 Spain 16–17
Jiménez, Juan Ramón Málaga 13, 14, 184–5 Spain in Europe (1812) 56
Museo de Zenobia y Juan airport 265 Spanish empire (1700) 54
Ramón Jiménez (Moguer) 132 Alcazaba 184–5 Tangier 174
Juan Carlos I, King 60, 61 Civil War 58 Úbeda 159
Juan de la Cruz, San festivals 38, 39, 41, 43 Western Europe 17
159 hotels 218 Marbella 13, 14, 186–7
Juana la Loca 194 restaurants 234 beaches 36
Junta de Andalucía 254 transport 268, 269 hotels 218
Justa, Santa 106 Málaga (province) see Cádiz and restaurants 234–5
Málaga Marbella Golf 37
K Mañara, Miguel de 73 María Cristina, Queen 58
Kasbah (Tangier) 174 Manilva María Luisa, Princess
Ketama 32 restaurants 234 Costurero de la Reina (Seville)
Knights Hospitallers 196 Mano Negra 58 98
Knights Templar 130 Manolete 31 Parque María Luisa (Seville)
Al Mansur 51, 148 102–3
L Maps statue of (Seville) 102
Lafita, José 76, 84 A 90-Minute Walk Around Markets 240
Landscape 24–5 Historic Cádiz 170–71 Charco de la Pava Flea Market
Lanjarón 15, 191, 193 A 90-Minute Walk in Seville (Seville) 108, 240
festivals 39 110–11 Martínez, Domingo 71
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280 GENERAL INDEX
Martínez, Ginés 157 Montañes, Juan Martínes (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Matadors 30–31 Iglesia del Salvador (Seville) 79 Centro de Interpretación
Matalascañas 133 St John the Baptist 94 Cuevas de Guadix (Guadix) 204
restaurants 231 statue of (Seville) 79 Centro de Recepción e
Mazagón 132 Montefrío 192 Interpretación de la Naturaleza
hotels 217 Montes de Málaga 185 (Parque Natural de Cazorla,
Mecina Bombaron Montilla 151 Segura y las
hotels 219 Montoro 143 Villas) 160
Medical treatment 259 Montpensier, Dukes of 100 Centro del Vino Condado de
Medina Azahara 27, 50, 51, Moors 21–2, 45, 50–51 Huelva (El Condado) 133
142–3 Las Alpujarras uprisings 54 Convento de Santa Paula
Medina Sidonia 172 architecture 26–7 (Seville) 94
Medina Sidonia, Duchess of 60 azulejos 26, 80 Dar El Makhzen (Tangier) 174
Medina Sidonia, Dukes of 134, 172 expulsion from Spain 54, 55 Gibraltar Museum (Gibraltar)
Medinaceli, Dukes of 81 Granada 194 177
Melilla 175 Reconquest 52–3 Museo de Alfarería (Guadix) 204
Mena, Pedro de 194 Morocco 174–5 Museo de Almería 207
Mendoza, Rodrigo de 203 travel to 265 Museo Arqueológico (Baza) 205
Menus 220–21 Moros y Cristianos (Válor) 40 Museo Arqueológico (Córdoba)
Merimée, Prosper 57, 100 Mosaics 147
Mesa, Juan de 94 azulejos 80 Museo Arqueológico (Granada)
Metropol Parasol 95 Roman 48 195, 197
Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 124, 138, Mosques Museo Arqueológico (Málaga)
145, 148–9 Grand Mosque (Tangier) 174 185
Mijas Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 138, Museo Arqueológico (Seville)
hotels 218 145, 148–9 13, 101, 103
restaurants 235 Motorways 270–71 Museo Arqueológico (Úbeda)
Millán, Gómez 93 Motril 159
Los Millares 46, 47, 207 hotels 219 Museo Arqueológico Cueva de
Minas de Riotinto 130 restaurants 237 Siete Palacíos (Almuñécar) 193
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada) Moulay Ismail, Sultan 174 Museo de Artes y Costumbres
195 Mountain refuges 214, 215 Populares (Seville) 13, 101, 103
Miró, Joan 187 Movies see Film Museo del Baile Flamenco
Mobile phones 262, 263 Mudéjar architecture 26, 28, 52 (Seville) 79
Moguer 132 azulejos 80 Museo de Bellas Artes
Mojácar 15, 209 Muhammad V, Caliph 198, 199 (Córdoba) 146
hotels 219 Mulhacén 25, 203 Museo de Bellas Artes
Molina, Tirso de 73 Murallas (Seville) 94 (Granada) 195
Monachil Murallas de San Carlos (Cádiz) 170 Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville)
hotels 219 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 70, 12, 66, 70–71
Monasteries and convents 110, 146, 168 Museo de Cádiz (Cádiz) 168–9
Convento de la Merced Calzada baptism 72 Museo Carmen Thyssen
(Seville) 70 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) (Málaga) 13, 14, 184, 185
Convento de Santa Clara 69, 73 Museo del Grabado
(Seville) 92 Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 85 Contemporáneo (Marbella) 187
Convento de Santa Inés (Seville) Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84 Museo Hispano-Musulman
95 Santa Justa and Santa Rufina (Granada) 195
Convento de Santa Paula 106 Museo Julio Romero de Torres
(Seville) 91, 94 Seville Cathedral 83 (Córdoba) 146
Monasterio de la Cartuja La Virgen de la Servilleta 71 Museo de la Legión (Cueta)
(Granada) 29, 195 Young Beggar 55 175
Monasterio de la Rábida 131 Museums and galleries Museo Minero (Riotinto) 130
Monasterio de San Clemente admission charges 254–5 Museo de Picasso (Málaga) 13,
(Seville) 92 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, 14, 184, 185
Monasterio de Santa Clara 84–5 Museo Provincial (Huelva) 131
(Moguer) 132 La Atalaya Theme Centre (Jerez Museo Provincial (Jaén) 153
Monasterio de Santa María de de la Frontera) 166 Museo de Zenobia y Juan
las Cuevas (Seville) 109 Casa Museo de Martín Alonso Ramón Jiménez (Moguer) 132
Real Monasterio de Santa Clara Pinzón (Palos de la Frontera) 132 opening hours 255
(Jaén) 153 Casa Natal de Picasso (Málaga) Palacio de Nájera (Antequera)
Santa Isabel (Seville) 94 184, 185 183
Money 260–61 Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla) Music
Montañes, Juan Martínes 160 festivals 38–43
Convento de Santa Clara Centro Andaluz de Arte flamenco 32–3, 244, 247
(Seville) 92 Contemporáneo (Seville) 109 folk 245
GENERAL INDEX 281
Music (cont.) Opening hours 255 Palma del Río (cont.)

opera and classical music 245, banks 260 restaurants 232
247 shops 238 Palomares incident (1966) 60
rock, pop and jazz 245, 247 Opera 245, 247 Palomino, Antonio 195
Order of Calatrava 154 Palos de la Frontera 127, 132
N Ordóñez, Bartolomé 194 restaurants 231
Napoleon I, Emperor Orea, Juan de 206 Pampaneira 15, 203
Alhambra (Granada) 198 Orgiva 203, 204 Paquirri 143
Battle of Bailén 153 festivals 38 Paradors 213, 214
and Cádiz 169 hotels 219 Parking 271
Napoleonic Wars 56 restaurants 237 Parks and gardens
Naranjas y Limones (Torres) 146 Osuna 137 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
Nasrid dynasty 45, 194 restaurants 231 (Córdoba) 144
Alhambra (Granada) 198–9 Osuna, Dukes of 137 Generalife (Granada) 202
architecture 26 Outdoor activities 248–51 Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 13,
Generalife (Granada) 202 Oviedo, Juan de 85
Reconquest 52 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 81 Moorish gardens 26
National parks Convento de la Merced Calzada Parque Genovés (Cádiz) 170
Parque Nacional de Doñana 25, (Seville) 70 Parque María Luisa (Seville) 12,
127, 134–5 Convento de Santa Clara 13, 97, 102–3
Sierra Nevada 203 (Seville) 92 Parque Ornitológico
Nature reserves (Almuñécar) 193
Bahia de Cádiz Nature Reserve P Real Alcázar (Seville) 86
169 Pacheco, Francisco de 81 Parlamento de Andalucía
Parque Natural de Cabo de Palaces (Seville) 93
Gata 15, 125, 208 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos Parque María Luisa (Seville) 12,
Parque Natural de Cazorla, (Córdoba) 14, 144, 146 97–103
Segura y Las Villas 160, 161 Alhambra (Granada) 27, 125, area map 97
Parque Natural de Los 198–9 restaurants 228–9
Alcornocales 13, 14, 173 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 12, 80, 81 Street-by-Street: Around the
Parque Natural de Montes de Casa de los Tiros (Granada) Universidad 98–9
Málaga 185 194–5 Parque Nacional see National parks
Parque Natural Sierra de las Medina Azahara 142–3 Parque Natural see Nature reserves
Nieves 182 Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84 Passports 254, 258
Parque Natural del Torcal 183 Palacio de las Cadenas (Úbeda) Patio de las Doncellas (Seville) 80,
Yesos de Sorbas 209 158 86
Naturism 250, 251 Palacio Carlos V (Granada) 29, Patios of Córdoba 150
Las Navas de Tolosa, Battle of 195, 199 Pechina
(1227) 52 Palacio de Jabalquinto (Baeza) hotels 219
Neanderthals 46 28, 156 Pedrajas, Francisco Javier 154
Necrópolis Romana (Carmona) Palacio de Lebrija (Seville) 13, 78 Pedro I (the Cruel), King
137 Palacio de la Madraza (Granada) Alcázar del Rey Pedro
Nelson, Admiral Horatio 57, 173 194 (Carmona) 137
Neolithic period 46 Palacio del Marqués de la death 53
Nerja 184 Gomera (Osuna) 29, 137 Real Alcázar (Seville) 86
beach 165 Palacio del Marqués de Reconquest 52
hotels 218 Salvatierra (Ronda) 181 Pedroche 143
restaurants 235 Palacio del Mayorazgo (Arcos Pemán, José Maria 168
New World 54 de la Frontera) 179 Peñarroya-Pueblonuevo 142
Newspapers 263 Palacio Mondragón (Ronda) 180 Peninsular War 56, 57
Niebla 133 Palacio Pedro I (Seville) 53 People of Andalusia 22–3
Nightlife 245, 247 Palacio de Pemartín (Jerez de la Pérez, Juan 131
Níjar 209 Frontera) 166 Perfume shops 241
“NO8DO” 79 Palacio de Peñaflor (Écija) 137 Personal security 258–9
Noche de San Juan 39 Palacio de San Telmo (Seville) Petrol 271
96, 99, 100 Pharmacies 259
O Palacio de Viana (Córdoba) 23, Phoenicians 46, 47, 168
Ocampo, Andrés de 94 147 Picadores 30
Ohanes Real Alcázar (Seville) 12–13, 77, Picasso, Pablo 58, 187
festivals 38 86–7 Casa Natal de Picasso (Málaga)
Ojén see also Castles and fortresses 184, 185
hotels 218 La Palma del Condado 133 Museo de Picasso (Málaga) 13,
Olavide, Pablo de 155 festivals 40 14, 184, 185
Olives 25, 49 Palma del Río 142 Self-portrait 58
olive oil 152 hotels 218 Pickman, Charles 109
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282 GENERAL INDEX
Pickpockets 258 Real Chancillería (Granada) 196 Roldán, Pedro (cont.)

Pico Veleta 203 Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Iglesia de Santa Catalina
Pinzón, Martín 132 Ecuestre (Jerez de la Frontera) (Seville) 91, 95
Pinzón, Vincente 132 166, 246 Romans 45, 48–9
Pisano, Nicola 94 Reccared, King 49 Acinipo 179
Pizzaro, Francisco 54 Reconquest 52–3 Baelo Claudia 173
Plateresque architecture 29 architecture 28 Itálica 136
Playa Agua Amarga 37 Religious objects shops 241 Necrópolis Romana (Carmona)
Playa de los Genoveses 37, 209 Renaissance architecture 29 137
Plaza de la Corredera (Córdoba) RENFE 266, 267 Romería de los Gitanos (Cabra)
146–7 Republican army, Civil War 39
Plaza del Pópulo (Baeza) 157 58–9 Romería de Nuestra Señora de la
Plaza de San Juan de Dios (Cádiz) Responsible travel 256–7 Cabeza (Andújar) 38, 43, 155
170 Restaurants 220–37 Romería del Rocío (Huelva) 38,
Plaza Santa Cruz (Seville) 77, 110 Andalusian cuisine 220 42, 133
Plaza de Toros (Antequera) 183 Cádiz and Málaga 232–6 Romería de San Isidro 38
Plaza de Toros (El Puerto de Santa children in 221 Romería de San Miguel
María) 167 Córdoba and Jaén 231–2 (Torremolinos) 40
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza disabled travellers 221 Romerías 42
(Seville) 12, 68, 72, 246 Flavours of Andalusia 222–3 Romero, Pedro 40, 181
Plaza del Triunfo (Seville) 76, 84 how to dress 220 Ronda 13, 14, 163, 179, 180–81
Plaza Vieja (Almería) 206 Granada and Almería 236–7 bullfighting 181
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes (Seville) Huelva and Sevilla 230–31 festivals 40
12, 76, 84 meal times 22, 220 hotels 219
Police 258, 259 reading the menu 220–21 restaurants 235
Pop music 245 Seville 228–9 Street-by-Street map 180–81
Poqueira Valley 203, 204 smoking 221 Ronda la Vieja 179
Post-Moorish architecture 28–9 tipping 255 Roquetas de Mar 208
Postal services 262, 263 what it costs 221 restaurants 237
El Postigo (Seville) 69 wine choices 221 Royal Tobacco Factory (Seville)
Pottery see Ceramics Riaño, Diego de 79, 110 56, 57, 80, 99, 100–101
Pozo, Aurelio del 73 Ribera, Catalina de 93 Rue es Siaghin (Tangier) 175
Pozoblanco 143 Ribera, José de 137 Rueda, Jerónimo Sánchez de 154
Priego de Córdoba 154 Rincón de la Victoria 37, 185 Rufina, Santa 106
PSOE (political party) 61 hotels 219 Ruiz, Hernán
Public holidays 41 La Rinconada Córdoba Cathedral 149
Public toilets 255 restaurants 231 La Giralda (Seville) 82
Pueblos Blancos tour 14, El Rinconcillo (Seville) 91 Puente Romano (Córdoba) 147
178–9 Riofrío 192 Ruiz, Hernán the Younger 93
Puente de Isabel II (Seville) 57, Riotinto Company 128, 130, 131
107, 111 Rivas, Felipe de 92 S
Puente Nuevo (Ronda) 180 Rivera, General Primo de 58, 59 Sacromonte (Granada) 197
Puente Romano (Córdoba) 145, Roads Saint Bruno in Ecstasy (Zurbarán)
147 crossing 272 168
Puerta de Purchena (Almería) driving in Andalusia 270–71 St John the Baptist (Montañés) 94
206–7 road signs 270 Salares 185
Puerto Banús 187 El Rocío 127, 133 Sales tax 238, 255
Puerto de la Ragua 205 hotels 217 Salido, Fernando Ortega 158
El Puerto de Santa María 167, 169 restaurants 230 Salobreña 193
hotels 219 Rock music 245 restaurants 237
restaurants 235 Rodalquilar 209 San see also Churches
Punta Umbría 131 Rodríguez, García San Fernando
Andalusian Patio 150 restaurants 235
Q Rodríguez, Ventura 153, 192 San Hugo en el Refectorio
Queipo de Llano, General 59 Roldán, José 153 (Zurbarán) 70
Quesada, Diego de 95 Roldán, Luisa 93 San Jerónimo (Torrigiano) 70
Roldán, Pedro San José 208–9
R Hospital de los Venerables hotels 219
Radio 263 (Seville) 85 San Pedro de Alcántara 187
Rail travel 266–8 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Sánchez Coello, Alonso 54–5
Rainfall 40 O (Seville) 109 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166
Raphael, St 145 Iglesia San Ildefonso (Jaén) festivals 39
Real Alcázar (Seville) 12–13, 77, 153 hotels 219
86–7 Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Seville) restaurants 235
azulejos 80 81 Santa Cruz (Seville) 12, 75–87
GENERAL INDEX 283
Santa Cruz (Seville) (cont.) Shopping (cont.) Tapas 222, 224–5

A 90-Minute Walk in Seville markets 240 Tapas bars 225
110–11 VAT exemption 238, 255 Tarifa 13, 14, 173
area map 75 What to Buy in Andalusia beach 37
hotels 216 242–3 hotels 219
restaurants 228–9 when to shop 238 restaurants 235
Street-by-Street map 76–7 Sierra de Aracena 126, 127, 128, Tarifa, 1st Marquess of 81
Santa Fé 192 129, 130 Tariq ben Ziyad 50
Santa Justa station (Seville) 267 Sierra de Cabo de Gata 208 Tarraconensis 49
Santiponce 136 Sierra de Cazorla 25, 139, 161 Tartessus 46, 47
Santuario see Churches Sierra de Grazalema 13, 24 Taxes, VAT exemption 238, 255
Scenic routes 268 Sierra Morena 136, 139 Taxis 273
Scipio Africanus Sierra Morena tour 142–3 safety 258
founds Itálica 48, 127, 136 Sierra Nevada 25, 189, 203 Teatro see Theatres
Punic Wars 155 skiing 249, 251 Tejero, Antonio 61
Security, personal 258–9 Sierra Norte 136 Telephone services 262, 263
Segovia, Andrés 58, 194 Siestas 39 Television 263
Certamen Internacional de Siloé, Diego de 158 Telmo, St 100
Guitarra Classica Andrés Almería Cathedral 206 Temperatures 41
Segovia (Almuñécar) 41 Granada Cathedral 194 Tena, Lucero 33
Segura de la Sierra 160 Guadix Cathedral 204 Tennis 249, 251
Self-catering accommodation 214 Iglesia de la Encarnación Tenorio, Don Juan 73
Semana Santa 23, 38 (Alhama de Granada) 192 Terán, Luis Marín de 73
in Seville 42 Iglesia de la Villa (Montefrío) 192 Theatres 244, 247
Virgen de la Macarena 93 Málaga Cathedral 184 Gran Teatro (Córdoba) 244, 247
Seneca the Elder 48 Real Chancillería 196 Teatro Lope de Vega (Seville) 99,
Seneca the Younger 48, 146 Templo de San Gabriel (Loja) 101, 244, 245
Senior travellers 256, 257 192 Teatro de la Maestranza (Seville)
Setenil 179 Skiing 249, 251 68, 72–3, 244, 245
Sevilla (province) see Huelva and Smoking 221, 255 Theme parks
Sevilla Soraya, Sultana 202 Isla Mágica (Seville) 108, 246
Sevilla en Otoño (Seville) 40 Sorbas 209 Mini Hollywood (Tabernas) 246,
Seville 63–121 Sotogrande 177 247
A 90-Minute Walk in Seville Soult, Marshal 73, 84 Tivoli World (Benalmádena) 246,
110–11 Spaghetti westerns 208 247
Across the River 105–9 Spanish Foreign Legion 175 Theodosius, Emperor 49
airport 264 Spas and Arab baths 250, 251 Tickets
El Arenal 67–73 Alhama de Granada 192 buses 273
Cathedral and La Giralda 76, Baños del Alcázar Califales coaches 269
82–3 (Córdoba) 144, 146 entertainment 244, 247
entertainment 244–7 Baños Arabes (Jaén) 152 trains 266
festivals and fiestas 38–42 El Bañuelo (Granada) 195, 197 Tiles 26, 80, 106
Golden Age 54–5 Fuente Agria 204 Time zones 257
hotels 216 Lanjarón 193 Timetables, train 267
La Macarena 89–95 Special needs, travellers with see Tipping 255
maps 18–19, 64–5 Disabled travellers in hotels 214
maps: Street Finder 112–21 Specialist holidays 250, 251, 256, Toilets, public 255
Museo de Bellas Artes 70–71 257 Toledo
Parque María Luisa 12, 97–103 Speed limits 270 fall of (1085) 51
Real Alcázar 12–13, 86–7 Sports 246, 248–9, 251 Third Council of (589) 49
restaurants 228–9 Spring in Andalusia 38 El Torcal 14, 183
Santa Cruz 12, 75–87 Stamps, postage 262 Torcuato, San 204
shopping 239, 241 Stations 267–9 Torre de la Calahorra (Córdoba)
Three Days in Seville 12–13 Steinacher, Gustavo 107 147
transport 266–9, 272–3 Student travellers 256, 257 Torre de Don Fadrique (Seville)
Triana 106–7 Suárez, Adolfo 60 92
Two Days in Seville 12 Summer in Andalusia 39 Torre del Oro (Seville) 12, 69, 73
Seville School 70 Sunshine 39 Torre Tavira (Cádiz) 13, 169, 171
Sherry 34–5, 226 Susillo, Antonio 100 Torremolinos 186
Jerez de la Frontera 166–7 Synagogues festivals 40
El Puerto de Santa María 167 Córdoba 144, 146 restaurants 235–6
Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 Torres, Julio Romero de
Shoe shops 241 T Museo Julio Romero de Torres
Shopping 238–43 Tabernas 208 (Córdoba) 146
how to pay 238 Tangier 174–5 Naranjas y Limones 146
www.ebook3000.com
284 GENERAL INDEX
Torrigiano, Pietro Valdés Leal, Juan de (cont.) Wildlife 25

San Jerónimo 70 La Inmaculada 70 Aquarium (Roquetas de Mar)
Tortello, Benvenuto 81 Valencina de la Concepción 208
Tourist information 254, 257 hotels 217 Bahia de Cádiz Nature Reserve
Tours by car Valera, Lorenzo Coullaut 169
Las Alpujarras 204–5 Glorieta de Bécquer 102 Centro Rescate de la Fauna
Pueblos Blancos 178–9 Válor 205 Sahariana (Almería) 207
Sierra Morena 142–3 festivals 40 Fuente de Piedra 182–3
Trafalgar, Battle of (1805) 56, 57, Vandals 49 Parque Nacional de Doñana 25,
173 Vandelvira, Andrés de 156 134–5
Trains 266–8 Baeza Cathedral 157 Parque Natural de Cabo de
Trajan, Emperor 48, 101 Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda) 158 Gata 208
birthplace 136 Cathedral (Jaén) 152 Parque Natural de Cazorla,
statue of (Baelo Claudia) 173 Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda) 159 Segura and Las Villas
Triana (Seville) 105, 106 Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda) 159 25, 161
Trams 272–3 Palacio de las Cadenas (Úbeda) Parque Natural de Los
Translation services 259 158 Alcornocales 173
Travel 264–73 El Vapor Boat (Cádiz) 169 Parque Natural de Montes de
air 264–5 VAT exemption 238, 255 Málaga 185
bus 272, 273 Vázquez de Molina, Juan 158 Parque Natural de Torcal 183
Cádiz and Málaga 165 Vega, Garcilaso de la 151 Selwo Aventura (Estepona) 246,
car 270–71 Vega, Lope de 247
coach 269 Fuente Obejuna 142 Selwo Marina (Benalmádena)
Córdoba and Jaén 141 Teatro Lope de Vega (Seville) 101 246, 247
cycling 273 Vejer de la Frontera 14, 172 Sierra Nevada 203
Granada and Almería 191 hotels 219 wildlife and birdwatching
Huelva and Seville 129 restaurants 236 holidays 248, 251
insurance 258, 259 Velázquez, Diego 55 Yesos de Sorbas 209
rail 266–8 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79 Zoobotánico (Jerez de la
taxis 273 baptism 90, 95 Frontera) 246, 247
walking 272 Los Vélez, Marqués de 205 Windfarms 173
Traveller’s cheques 260 Vélez Blanco 205 Wine 133, 226
Trevélez 15, 204 Vélez Málaga 185 in restaurants 221
Triana (Seville) 12, 105 Vera Winter in Andalusia 41
A 90-Minute Walk in Seville restaurants 237 Wiring money 260
110–11 Veronica, St 152 Women 22–3
hotels 216 Vespasian, Emperor 48 World War II 60
Street-by-Street map 106–7 Victor’s Beach 37
Triana, Rodrigo de 106 Vigarney, Felipe de 194 Y
The Fall of Granada 52–3 Yegen 205
U Virgen de la Macarena 88, 93 Yerbabuena, Eva 33
Úbeda 15, 158–9 La Virgen de la Servilleta (Murillo) 71 Yesos de Sorbas 209
hotels 218 Virgin Mary 23 Youth hostels 214, 215
map 159 Visas 254
parador 158 Visigoths 45, 48, 49 Z
restaurants 232 architecture 27 Zahara de los Atunes 14, 172
Ubrique 178 Moorish Conquest 50 restaurants 236
UNESCO World Heritage Sites 15, Zahara de la Sierra 178
156–9 W Zamora, Niceto Alcalá 154
Universidad (Seville) 98–9, 100– Walking Zoobotánico (Jerez de la
101 in towns 272 Frontera) 246, 247
Utrecht, Treaty of (1713) 56, 176 walking and trekking holidays Zuheros
248, 251 hotels 218
V War of the Spanish Succession Zurbarán, Francisco de 55, 146,
Valdés, Lucas 56, 176 168
Hospital de los Venerables Washington, George 84 Apoteosis de Santo Tomás de
(Seville) 85 Water, drinking 227 Aquino 71
Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville) Water sports 249, 251 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79
72 Weather 39–41 Iglesia de la Magdalena 72
Monasterio de San Clemente 92 Welles, Orson 175 Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84
Valdés Leal, Juan de 69, 146 Wheelchair access see Disabled St Bruno in Ecstasy 168
Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79 travellers San Hugo en el Refectorio 70
Finis Gloriae Mundi 73 “White Villages” see Pueblos The Sleeping Girl 166
Hospital de los Venerables Blancos
(Seville) 85 Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt 131
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 285
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people Sevilla de Junta de Andalucía and other departments of the Junta
whose contributions and assistance have made this book possible. de Andalucía. Particular thanks also to: Javier Morata, Jose Luis de
Andrés de Colsa and Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas at Acanto
Main Contributors Arquitectura y Urbanismo, Madrid; Juan Fernández at Aguilar for
David Baird, resident in Andalusia from 1971 to 1995, has written his helpful comments; Robert op de Beek at Alvear, Montilla;
many articles and books on Spain, including Inside Andalusia. Francisco Benavent at Fundación Andaluza de Flamenco, Jerez
Martin Symington is a travel journalist and author who has de la Frontera; staff at the Locutorio, Granada; Paul Montegrifo;
written extensively on Spain. He is a regular contributor to Amanda Corbett at Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Sevilla;
The Daily Telegraph and also worked on the Eyewitness Travel José Pérez de Ayala at the Parque Nacional de Doñana; Gabinete
Guide to Great Britain. de Prensa, RENFE, Sevilla; Graham Hines and Rachel Taylor at
Nigel Tisdall, contributor to the Eyewitness Travel Guide to France, the Sherry Institute of Spain, London; Dr David Stone; Joaquín
is the author of many travel publications, including the Insight Sendra at Turismo Andaluz SA; 6 Toros 6 magazine, Madrid.
Pocket Guide to Seville.
Photography Permissions
Additional Contributors The publisher would like to thank all those who gave permission
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Janet Mendel, Steve Miller, Javier Gómez Morata, Clara Villanueva, galleries, hotels, museums, restaurants, shops, transport services
John Gill, Mari Nicholson. and other establishments too numerous to thank individually.
Additional Illustrations
Richard Bonson, Louise Boulton, Brian Cracker, Roy Flooks, Picture Credits
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Partnership, John Woodcock.
Additional Cartography Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of the
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PHRASE BOOK 287
Phrase Book
In Emergency more más mahs
less menos meh-nohs
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh
Stop! ¡Pare! pah-reh
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon Shopping
médico! meh-dee-koh
Call an ambulance! ¡Llame a una yah-meh ah oonah How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
ambulancia! ahm-boo-lahn- does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
thee-ah I would like … Me gustaría … meh goos-tah-ree-ah
Call the police! ¡Llame a la yah-meh ah lah Do you have? ¿Tienen? tee-yeh-nehn
policía! poh-lee-thee-ah I’m just Sólo estoy soh-loh ehs-toy
Call the fire brigade! ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs looking. mirando, gracias. mee-rahn-doh
bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs grah-thee-ahs
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah Do you take ¿Aceptan ah-thehp-tahn
telephone? teléfono más ehl teh-leh-foh-noh credit cards? tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs deh
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- crédito? kreh-dee-toh
moh What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah do you open? abren? ah-brehn
hospital? hospital más ehl ohs-pee-tahl What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- do you close? cierran? thee-yehr-rahn
moh This one. Este ehs-teh
That one. Ese eh-seh
expensive caro kahr-oh
Communication Essentials cheap barato bah-rah-toh
size, clothes talla tah-yah
Yes Sí see size, shoes número noo-mehr-oh
No No noh white blanco blahn-koh
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr black negro neh-groh
Thank you Gracias grah-thee-ahs red rojo roh-hoh
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Hello Hola oh-lah green verde vehr-deh
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs blue azul ah-thool
Good night Buenas noches bweh-nahs noh- antique shop la tienda de lah tee-yehn-dah
chehs antigüedades deh ahn-tee-gweh-
Morning La mañana lah mah-nyah-nah dah-dehs
Afternoon La tarde lah tahr-deh bakery la panadería lah pah-nah-deh
Evening La tarde lah tahr-deh ree-ah
Yesterday Ayer ah-yehr bank el banco ehl bahn-koh
Today Hoy oy book shop la librería lah lee-breh-ree-ah
Tomorrow Mañana mah-nya-nah butcher la carnicería lah kahr-nee-theh-
Here Aquí ah-kee ree-ah
There Allí ah-yee cake shop la pastelería lah pahs-teh-leh-
What? ¿Qué? keh ree-ah
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh chemist la farmacia lah fahr-mah-
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh thee-ah
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh fishmonger la pescadería lah pehs-kah-deh-
ree-ah
greengrocer la frutería lah froo-teh-ree-ah
Useful Phrases grocery la tienda de lah tee-yehn-dah
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah comestibles deh koh-mehs-
usted? oos-tehd tee-blehs
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-yehn hairdresser la peluquería lah peh-loo-keh-ree-ah
thank you. gracias. grah-thee-ahs market el mercado ehl mehr-kah-doh
Pleased to Encantado de ehn-kahn-tah-doh newsagent el kiosko ehl kee-yohs-koh
meet you. conocerle. deh koh-noh- de prensa deh prehn-sah
thehr-leh post office la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
See you soon. Hasta pronto. ahs-tah prohn-toh correos deh kohr-reh-ohs
That’s fine. Está bien. ehs-tah bee-yehn shoe shop la zapatería lah thah-pah-teh-
Where is/are …? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs- ree-ah
está/están …? tah/ehs-tahn supermarket el supermercado ehl soo-pehr-mehr-
How far is it to …? Cuántos metros/ kwahn-tohs meh- kah-doh
kilómetros hay trohs/kee-loh- tobacconist el estanco ehl ehs-tahn-koh
de aquí a …? meh-trohs travel agent la agencia de lah ah-hehn-thee-ah
eye deh ah-kee ah viajes deh vee-ah-hehs
Which ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh
way to …? se va a …? seh vah ah
Do you speak ¿Habla ah-blah
Sightseeing
English? inglés? een-glehs art gallery el museo de arte ehl moo-seh-oh
I don’t understand No comprendo noh deh ahr-teh
kohm-prehn-doh cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh-drahl
Could you ¿Puede pweh-deh church la iglesia lah ee-gleh-see-yah
speak slowly hablar ah-blahr la basílica lah bah-see-lee-kah
please? más despacio mahs dehs-pah- garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen
por favor? thee-oh library la biblioteca lah bee-blee-yoh-
pohr fah-vohr teh-kah
I’m sorry. Lo siento. loh see-ehn-toh museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh
tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
information información deh een-fohr-mah-
Useful Words office turística cee-yohn
big grande grahn-deh too-rees-tee-kah
small pequeño peh-keh-nyoh town hall el ayuntamiento ehl ah-yoon-tah-
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh mee-yehn-toh
cold frío free-oh closed for cerrado por thehr-rah-doh pohr
good bueno bweh-noh holiday vacaciones vah-kah-cee-
bad malo mah-loh yoh-nehs
enough bastante bahs-tahn-teh bus station la estación de lah ehs-tah-ee-yohn
well bien bee-yehn autobuses deh owtoh-
open abierto ah-bee-ehr-toh boo-sehs
railway la estación lah ehs-tah-thee-
closed cerrado thehr-rah-doh
station de trenes ohn deh treh-nehs
left izquierda eeth-key-ehr-dah
right derecha deh-reh-chah
straight on todo recto toh-doh rehk-toh Staying in a Hotel
near cerca thehr-kah
far lejos leh-hohs Do you ¿Tiene tee-yeh-neh
up arriba ah-ree-bah have una oo-nah
down abajo ah-bah-hoh a vacant habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
early temprano tehm-prah-noh room? libre? yohn lee-breh
late tarde tahr-deh double habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah room doble yohn doh-bleh
exit salida sah-lee-dah with double con cama de kohn kah-mah deh
toilet lavabos, lah-vah-bohs bed matrimonio mah-tree-moh-
servicios sehr-vee-thee-ohs nee-oh
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288 PHRASE BOOK
twin room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- la pimienta pee-mee-yehn-tah pepper

con dos camas yohn kohn dohs el plátano plah-tah-noh banana
kah-mahs
single room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- el pollo poh-yoh chicken
individual yohn een-dee-vee- el postre pohs-treh dessert
doo-ahl el queso keh-soh cheese
room with habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
a bath con baño, yohn kohn bah- la sal sahl salt
nyoh las salchichas sahl-chee-chahs sausages
shower ducha doo-chah la salsa sahl-sah sauce
porter el botones ehl boh-toh-nehs
key la llave lah yah-veh seco seh-koh dry
I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-na el solomillo soh-loh-mee-yoh sirloin
reservation. habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
la sopa soh-pah soup
reservada. yohn reh-sehr-
vah-dah la tarta tahr-tah pie/cake
el té teh tea
Eating Out la ternera tehr-neh-rah beef
las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast
Have you ¿Tienen tee-yeh-nehn
got a table mesa meh-sah el vinagre bee-nah-greh vinegar
for …? para …? pah-rah el vino blanco bee-noh blahn-koh white wine
I want to Quiero kee-yeh-roh el vino rosado bee-noh rosé wine
reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr
a table. una mesa. oo-nah meh-sah roh-sah-doh
The bill La cuenta lah kwehn-tah el vino tinto bee-noh teen-toh red wine
please. por favor. pohr fah-vohr
I am a Soy soy Numbers
vegetarian vegetariano/a beh-heh-tah-ree-
yah-no/na 0 cero theh-roh
Waitress/ Camarera/ kah-mah-reh-rah 1 uno oo-noh
waiter camarero kah-mah-reh-roh
menu la carta lah kahr-tah 2 dos dohs
fixed-price menú del meh-noo dehl 3 tres trehs
menu día dee-ah 4 cuatro kwa-troh
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh 5 cinco theen-koh
vinos bee-nohs
glass un vaso oon vah-soh 6 seis says
bottle una botella oo-nah boh-teh-yah 7 siete see-yeh-teh
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh 8 ocho oh-choh
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr 9 nueve nweh-veh
spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo-
chah-rah 10 diez dee-yehz
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah- 11 once ohn-theh
yoo-noh 12 doce doh-theh
lunch la comida lah koh-mee-dah
13 trece treh-theh
el almuerzo ehl ahl-mwehr-
thoh 14 catorce kah-tohr-theh
dinner la cena lah theh-nah 15 quince keen-theh
main course el primer plato ehl pree-mehr 16 dieciséis dee-eh-thee-seh-ees
plah-toh
starters los entremeses lohs ehn-treh- 17 diecisiete dee-eh-thee-see-
meh-sehs yeh-teh
dish of the day el plato del día ehl plah-toh dehl 18 dieciocho dee-eh-thee-oh-choh
dee-ah 19 diecinueve dee-eh-thee-
coffee el café ehl kah-feh
rare poco hecho poh-koh eh-choh nweh-veh
medium medio hecho meh-dee-yoh 20 veinte beh-yeen-teh
eh-choh 21 veintiuno beh-yeen-tee-oo-
well done muy hecho mwee eh-choh
noh
22 veintidós beh-yeen-tee-dohs
Menu Decoder 30 treinta treh-yeen-tah
al horno ahl ohr-noh baked 31 treinta y uno treh-yeen-tah ee
asado ah-sah-doh roast oo-noh
el aceite ah-theh-ee-teh oil 40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
las aceitunas ah-theh-toon-ahs olives 50 cincuenta theen-kwehn-tah
el agua mineral ah-gwa mineral water 60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
mee-neh-rahl
el ajo ah-hoh garlic 70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
el arroz ahr-rohth rice 80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
el azúcar ah-thoo-kahr sugar 90 noventa noh-behn-tah
la carne kahr-neh meat 100 cien thee-yehn
la cebolla theh-boh-yah onion 101 ciento uno thee-yehn-toh oo-
la cerveza thehr-veh-thah beer
noh
el cerdo therh-doh pork
el chocolate choh-koh-lah-teh chocolate 102 ciento dos thee-yehn-toh dohs
el chorizo choh-ree-thoh red sausage 200 doscientos dohs-thee-yehn-
el cordero kohr-deh-roh lamb tohs
el fiambre fee-ahm-breh cold meat 500 quinientos khee-nee-yehn-tohs
frito free-toh fried 700 setecientos seh-teh-thee-yehn-
la fruta froo-tah fruit
los frutos secos froo-tohs seh-kohs nuts tohs
las gambas gahm-bahs prawns 900 novecientos noh-veh-thee-yehn-
el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream tohs
el huevo oo-eh-voh egg 1,000 mil meel
el jamón serrano hah-mohn cured ham 1,001 mil uno meel oo-noh
sehr-rah-noh
el jerez heh-rehz sherry
la langosta lahn-gohs-tah lobster Time
la leche leh-cheh milk one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
el limón lee-mohn lemon
la limonada lee-moh-nah-dah lemonade one hour una hora oo-na oh-rah
la mantequilla mahn-teh-kee-yah butter half an hour media hora meh-dee-a oh-rah
la manzana mahn-thah-nah apple Monday lunes loo-nehs
los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
la menestra meh-nehs-trah vegetable stew Wednesday miércoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
la naranja nah-rahn-hah orange
Thursday jueves hweh-vehs
el pan pahn bread
el pastel pahs-tehl cake Friday viernes bee-yehr-nehs
las patatas pah-tah-tahs potatoes Saturday sábado sah-bah-doh
el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Seville & Andalusia, Revised Edition

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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Seville & Andalusia, Revised Edition

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Horse and carriage at Plaza de

Seville Córdoba and Jaén 138 Survival Guide

Where to Mixed green olives

Shops and Markets 238 Travel

Outdoor Activities and Phrase Book 287

Parque María Luisa 96

Across The River 104

A Guided Walk 110

Seville Street Finder 112

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Seville Area by Area SEVILLE AREA BY AREA 75

SANTA CRUZ All pages relating to central

and Galleries, Historic Buildings,

GO JOSE LUIS PEDRO E S

described. All the sights are

PLAZA 4 Iglesia del Salvador

Streets and Plazas, etc.

CA 9 Plaza del Triunfo

numbered and plotted on an

SAGASTPL DEL HUELVA FA

L E AGUILAS 7 Seville Cathedral and

Area Map. The detailed

5 Museo del Baile Flamenco

information for each sight is

Area Map For easy reference,

DE LOS REYES EOS EN

presented in numerical order,

PLAZA DEL PLAZA

the sights are numbered and

thereby making it easy to

located on a map. The sights

locate within the chapter.

A locator map shows where

Street-by-Street: Santa Cruz Calle Mateos Gago

and tapas bars. Bar Giralda at No. 2, with

tapas bars and strolling guitarists, there are plenty of

picturesque alleys, hidden plazas and flower-decked

patios to reward the casual wanderer. Once a Jewish

This gives a bird’s-eye Palacio Arzobispal, the

is still used by Seville’s clergy. AN

view of the heart of each GA

Encarnación (see p84) AZ

A suggested route for a walk

covers the more interesting

home for elderly priests

has a splendidly restored

streets in the area.

Seville’s most popular sights. NT This alley alongside

the Alcázar walls offers

into plant-filled patios.

the great arthquake q . Real Alcázar 0 yards 50

The perfect place to pause for

9 Plaza del Triunfo Façade of the Archivo de Indias by

Lying between the cathedral

The archive of the Indies punches

140 ANDALUSIA AREA BY AREA CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN 141

Exploring Córdoba and Jaén Sights at a Glance

This shows the main road

network and provides an

Embalse del del Puerto