New Lecture, Special Yarn, TEX 413 1

Md.
Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering (AUST)
Special Yarn
1.Yarn: It‘s a product of substantial length, containing fibers of filaments which cross-section
is 1000 times smaller than it‘s length with or without twist.
2.Special yarn : Special yarn are those in which some deliberate decorative discontinuity or
interruption is introduced, of either color or form, or of both color and form. This discontinuity is
incorporated with the intention of producing an enhanced aesthetic effect.
3.Two-for-One Twister (TFO):

The method of twisting two or more single yarns is called doubling or folding or ply twisting.
Such yarns are designated as doubled yarn, folded yarn or plied yarn and the machines intended
for the purpose are called doublers, ply-twisters or two-for-one (TFO) twisters.
In TFO, there is a double-twist spindle i.e. twisting element (spindle) inserts two turns of twist
for its each revolution.
A TFO, twisting spindle has a package mounted on a stationary platform. A rotating hollow
spindle passes through the platform and the package, and a curved radial hole in the lower part of
the spindle connects the hollow spindle with the outside yarn packages at maximum diameter.
The yarn path is shaped as a letter U and at each revolution of spindle, one turn of twist is
inserted in each arm of the letter U. This is possible because the doubled yarn package does not
move; instead it is the yarn that revolves around the package.
As shown in Figure below, the yarn undergoes first twist between its entry into and exit from the
spindle (A-B) and second twist between point B and the thread guide C.
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Lecturer
[ Fig: Two-for-One Twister (TFO) ]
3.1.Advantages of TFO:
a) The advantages offered by this machine, in comparison with the old ring twisting machines,
are the that two twists are imparted for each turn of the spindle.
b) At the yarn stage, TFO renders improved evenness, strength and elongation the material.
c) It also enhances the luster and abrasion resistance of the yarn.
d) At the fabric stage, however TFO aids in attaining higher stability, better handle, visual
characteristics and improved fabric roll.
4.Yarn conditioning:
It is a process to regain the moisture of yarn at the end before selling to customers. Yarn
conditioning simultaneously work as heat setting that provides flexibility, better performance in
onward process for all types of yarn.
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Lecturer
4.1.Why conditioning is needed?
During purchase the moisture content in raw cotton is about 8 to 9% but at the end of yarn
spinning process it get reduced to 5% .In this respect spinners are buying cotton with water &
selling yarn with less quantity water. Obviously the matter is loosing money . Yarn conditioning
is a process to regain the moisture of yarn at the end before selling to customers. Yarn
conditioning simultaneously work as heat setting that provides flexibility, better performance in
onward process for all types of yarn.
High speed spinning machines generate more friction thus giving additional heat to the yarn and
as a result of such heat transfer the yarn moisture content is vaporized. Rising speeds in spinning
result in decreased yarn quality for other processes and it is well known that dry yarns have
worse properties. Below graph shows the moisture reduction scenario in cotton process.
[ Fig: Cotton process & moisture content ]
Weight gaining is a very useful utilization of yarn conditioning. Increment of weight depends on
the conditioning process especially in cotton. Temperatures, vacuum time, steaming time, types
of steam are the main variables of yarn conditioning.
Another crucial achievement of conditioning is the development of quality level. The hairiness,
unevenness reduces for conditioning.
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Lecturer
4.2.Types of conditioning:
Yarn conditioning at the end of spinning processes is mostly done by using steam. But another option of
conditioning is available which is mostly used in different spinning processes to control humidity and
temperature is to use humidifiers. Humidifiers are very less used for yarn conditioning at the end of
spinning. So, conditioning has two types:
a) Conditioning by steam.
b) Conditioning by humidifiers.
a) Conditioning by steam:
Saturated steam is used to provide enough humid atmosphere to yarn packages for natural moisture regain
of fibers. Steam could be produced by a separate boiler or by a machine which provides moisture to yarn
packages. Steam conditioning has two methods of application:
# Conventional conditioning.
# Vacuum / Mechanical conditioning.
# Conventional conditioning:
In this process saturated steam of 100OC is produced by a boiler and supplied to yarn conditioning room
where yarn packages are placed. Yarn packages are kept in conditioning room for 24 hours for moisture
absorption. Cotton fibers absorb moisture to 8.5% in conditioning room and regain their moisture that was
evaporated in spinning operations. Water jets could also be used instead of steam.
# Vacuum / Mechanical conditioning:
Xorella introduced CONTEXXOR process of yarn conditioning. In this method a capsule shaped space is
used by machine and steam is produced within the machine and no separate boiler is required. Low
temperature (40-60OC) saturated steam is produced in which 100% moisture is converted to gaseous
state.
In process, yarn packages enter in capsule and vacuum is created in it to eliminate air pockets in between
yarn structure. Then 100% gaseous steam is supplied and due to vacuum moisture is evenly distributed
from outer layer to inner layer of the package in 40-45 minutes.
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Lecturer
[ Fig: Mechanical Conditioning ( XORELLA )]
b) Conditioning by humidifiers:
Humidifiers are the devices used to add moisture to any area where humid atmosphere is
required. Humidifiers are only used for conventional conditioning and add moisture to the room
where packages are placed for 24 hours.
Different types of humidifiers are available:
# Spray type air washers.
# Pan evaporative humidifiers.
# Electrically operated humidifiers.
# Air operated humidifiers.
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# Spray type air washers:
Air washers consist of a row of spray nozzles inside a chamber or casing. A tank at the bottom of
the chamber provides collection of water as it falls through the air and comes into contact with
the wet surface of the chamber baffles. The principal functions of the air washers are to cool the
air passed through the spray chamber and to control humidity.
# Pan evaporative humidifiers:
The evaporative type humidifier is fully automatic, the water level being controlled by means of
a float control. In operation, when the relative humidity drops below the humidity-control
setting, the humidifier fan blows air over the surface of the heated water in the tank. The air
picks up moisture. The air is blown to the space to be humidified. When the humidity control is
satisfied, the humidifier fan stops.
# Electrically operated humidifiers:
Dry-steam electrically operated humidifiers operate by means of a solenoid valve, which is

energized by a humidistat. When the relative humidity drops slightly below the desired level set
by the humidistat a solenoid valve actuated by the humidistat, admits steam from the separating
chamber to the re-evaporating chamber. The fan (which is energized when the solenoid valve
opens) assists in dispersing the steam into the area to be humidified.
# Air operated humidifiers:
These utilize a pneumatic hygrostat as a humidity controller and an air operator to open or close
the steam valve. A decrease in relative humidity increases the air pressure under a spring loaded
diaphragm to open the steam valve wider. An increase in relative humidity reduces the pressure
under the diaphragm and allows the valve to restrict the steam flow.
5.Moisture content (M)&Moisture Regain (R):

Their definitions are:
Mass of absorbedwater in specimem(W )
Moisturecontent ( M )  100
Mass of originalundried specimen(W  D)
Mass of absorbedwater in specimen(W )

MoistureRe gain( R)  100
Mass of dry specimen( D)
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Lecturer
From these definitions, the conversion between regain (R) and moisture content (M) can be
worked out according to the equation below:
R
M
1 R
In Australia, the conventional regain rates for some fibres are given in the Table below:
5.1.Calculate the commercial mass to invoice (cw):
dw 100  R %
cw  GW  
gw 100
• Extract a sample of mass (gw) from the lot (whose total gross weight is GW).
• Determine the dry weight (dw) of the sample by oven drying to completely evaporate the
moisture contained in it.
• Calculate the commercial mass to invoice (cw), based on a conventional regain R%.
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Lecturer
Example:
Suppose a lot of worsted yarn is to be shipped to a buyer, and the gross weight of lot is 1000 kg.
We now need to work out the commercial mass to invoice for the lot of yarn.
Answer:
We first extract a small sample (say 500 grams) from the lot. After oven drying of this small
sample, the dried mass becomes, say, 450 grams. For worsted yarn, the conventional regain rate
is 18.25% according to Table 1.2. Therefore, the commercial mass to invoice should be:
450 100  18.25

cw  1000   1064.25 ( kg )
500 100
6. Metallic Yarn:
The yarn which are composed of metals or as a blend of metallic fiber with other
fibers. Metallic fibers are fine drawn filaments of metals which spun and woven.By using this
process yarn is: o Thinner o Flexible o Durable Note: Metallic yarn may Shaved from wires.
Metallic fibre, in textiles, synthetic fibre, known generically as metallic,

including manufactured fibres composed of metal, metal-coated plastic, or of a core covered
by metal (usually aluminum). Trademarked names include Chromeflex, Lurex, and Melora.
6.1.Manufacturing Process of Metallic Yarns:
The raw material used is a roll of aluminum foil of 0.00045-inch thickness and 20 inch wide. On
the both sides of the sheet, a thermoplastic adhesive is applied, and the required coloring matter
is also added. Then the adhesive-coated foil is heated to about 90-95 °C, and a sheet of cellulose
acetate-butyrate transparent film is laminated to each side of the foil by passing through squeeze
rollers. The laminated material is then slit into filaments of the required width; the most popular
width being made is 1/64 inch although other sizes up to 1/120 inch are also made.
Gold is the most important color, which is produced by the addition of an orange-yellow dyestuff
to the adhesive. Silver is simply the color of the aluminum itself. Other colors such as bronze,
peacock blue and red are obtained by using the suitable pigment. Multi-colored effects, e.g. red
and green alternating irregularly along the length of the yarn, are obtained by pre-printing the
plastic film and laminating in the usual way.
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[Fig. Preparation of metal yarns by slitting of metalized film]
6.2.Properties of the Metal Yarns:

a) Highly conductive.
b) Radar reflective.
c) Light weight.
d) Flexible.
e) Antistatic behavior.
f) Cut resistant.
6.3.Types of metal coating:

(i) Metal coating with a binder, (ii) Vacuum deposition, (iii) Sputter coating & (iv) Electroless
plating.
6.4.Applications of Metallic Yarn:

1. The most common application of metallic fibres are in making fabrics like lame and brocade
which are then used for making luxurious dresses. Lame and brocade fabrics are also used in
upholstery such as curtains, sofa covers etc.
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Lecturer
2. Steel fibres are used in making carpets where they are dispersed along with other fibres. These
fibres help to conduct electricity so that the static shock is reduced. Such carpets are often used
in high volume computer areas where the chance of producing static shock is much greater.
3. As they are shock resistant, the metallic fabrics are also used in space suits, protective
clothing, cut resistant gloves of butchers, and in garments for people who work with risky
machinery.
4. These fibres are sometimes twisted with other fibres like wool, cotton, synthetic, and nylon to
make yarns, which give extra attraction to the finished garments.
5. Fashion designers often use these fibres to make ultra glamorous apparels for giving that extra
edge to their clothing lines. Metallic fabrics of gold, silver and bronze are hot favorites with
these professionals.
6. When not in cloths, they can be found on other fashion accessories such as handbags, belts,
and even shoes.
7. These yarns are used in conductive textiles (smart textiles).
8. Widely used in sarees
9. These fibres are extensively used for embellishing apparels, braids, draperies, laces, military
uniform decorations, ribbons, table linens, etc.
10. In Bangladesh, Lurex metallic yarn is widely used in knitting. Lurex is the registered brand
name for a type of yarn with a metallic appearance. Metallic Lurex knitting yarn is made from
synthetic film, onto which a metallic aluminium, silver, or gold layer has been vaporized. Lurex
is a great way to add the perfect amount of shimmer to the yarn.
7.What is Slub Yarn:

Slub yarn refers to yarn that has been purposely spun with slubs (thicker sections along the yarn)
while it was once seen only as a defect, slub yarn is now intentionally created to give fabric more
personality.
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Lecturer
7.1.Slub:
Slub is usually considered as a yarn fault. If any random thick & thin places are there in normal
yarn, it is considered as fault.
7.2.Factors affect the visual effect of slub yarns:
Specification of slubs consists of the following dimensions:
i) Number of slubs per unit length (Numbers)

ii) Diameter of slubs (in %)
iii) Length of slubs (in cm)
iv) Spacing between slubs (in cm)
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Lecturer
7.3.Slub yarns can be classified according to their visual effect:
1) Pattern/ regular slub yarn: Factors mentioned above such as (i) number of slubs per unit
length, (ii) diameter of slubs, (iii) length of slubs and (iv) spacing between slubs remain same for
this type of slub yarn.
2) Non-pattern/irregular slub yarn: Any factor mentioned above may be changed for nonpattern
slub yarns.
3) Multicount slub with pattern or/and non-pattern: In pattern and non-pattern types, dimensions
of slubs change very frequently but in multicount type, slubs are of longer in length and spacing
is also longer that cause count variation. In case of former two types, count remains almost same.
7.4.Production of slub yarn (Ground/Positive) in ring frame:
1. In the ring frame, there is a servo motor with slub gear and
another with twist gear.
2. Back and middle rollers get motion from the same gearing and
the front rollers get motion from separate gearing.
3. Slub is produced by the speed variation of back and middle
rollers.
4. Break draft is always maintained properly, otherwise roving
breakage will be created.
5. Back roller speed will be increased continuously after a certain
time. As a result more material will be feed, whereas during that
time the draft of front zone remains constant. So a thick place in
the final yarn will be created after a certain time (0.16 seconds)
6. The controller controls the following:-
 After how much time (mili second) the speed of back

roller will be increased.
 How longer the increased speed will remain.
 Amount of speed that to be increased.
7. Twist gear is optional, the speed of front roller is fixed when twist gear is not used.
8. Twist is controlled by changing the speed of front roller.
[Fig.: Production of slub/positive slub

yarn in ring frame]
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Lecturer
7.5.Classification of slub yarns:
A variety of methods are available for producing slub yarns, and the resulting yarns may be
divided into the following classes:
1) Ground/Positive Slub.
2) Reverse/Negative Slub.
3) Inject Slub.
Reverse/Negative slub:
The reverse or negative slub is obtained by intermittent deceleration of the slub gears. It reduces
the yarn thickness.
Inject slub:
The creel is equipped with a double number of rovings. A roving that will be injected is fed in
the back (3rd) roller. The base roving is fed in the middle (2nd) roller. The front and middle
rollers are always turning with a fixed draft to produce the base yarn. By rotating the third roller
for a definite period of time, a bundle of fibres is injected on the base roving. This group of
fibres will create a slub of a different color of the yarn.
[Fig.: Production of inject slub yarn in ring frame]
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Lecturer
7.6.Production of Slub Yarn in Rotor Frame:
In rotor frame, the slub yarn is produced by sudden acceleration of the speed of the sliver feed
roller. The system runs on the same basis as on ring frames that is identical in technology as far
as the motor and programming are concerned.
[ Fig. Production of Slub Yarn in Rotor Frame ]
7.7.Challenges for slub yarn spinners:

Besides the challenges of the slub yarn industry today, discussions with many slub yarn spinners
reveal the most frequent problems they have to face in the daily production of slub yarns. These
are:
1. Slub yarns not meeting the requirements or set standards.
2. Randomness of the intended slub effect.
3. Yarn mix-up (wrong bobbins).
4. Repeat patterns/Wrong setting of slub programme.
5. Mass decreases before or after the slub.
6. Definition of the settings for different slub insertion systems that should produce the same slub
yarn.
7. Relating the settings of the slub insertion system to characteristics or parameters of a slub yarn
and eventually relating them to the fabric appearance.
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Lecturer
7.8.Typical faults in slub yarns :

1. Missing slubs over a long distance
2. Slubs not being produced correctly
3. Outliers-An outlier is defined as a slub, which does not meet the defined specifications
regarding the slub length and the mass increase of the slub.
4. Yarn mix-ups-A serious fault is the mix-up of yarns, ie, wrong bobbins are wound
together on the winding machine.
7.9.Uses of slub yarn:
Slub yarn are used mainly in fashion industry, ready made garment industry, high-end shirting materials,
value-added knitwear, home textiles, woolen knitting industry, furnishing industry and handicraft
industry, etc., for creating eye catching designs in fabrics and other end products. Some of end products
images are given below for information.Now a days denim fabric is made from warp yarn which is at
least 30 per cent novelty cotton yarn having irregularly spaced effects (e.g., slubs) about one-half inch to
two inches in length.According to industry sources, annual growth rate in demand of slub yarn will be 5
to 7 per cent globally. In India, since the growth has just begun it is expected to be in the range of 15-20
per cent for the next 3-4 years.
7.10.Technical data :
Slub length=10 to 30000 mm
Interval Length – 10 to 30000 mm
Slub Diameter – 1.2 to 9.99 times of normal yarn
Negative Slub – 0.4 to 0.8 times of normal
8.Siro-spun Yarns:
Siro spinning is the similar type of ring spinning process in which two rovings are fed to drafting
at the same time & twisted together as a double yarn, which is known as Siro spinning.
8.1.Benefits of Siro Yarn:
8.2.Manufacturing of Siro-spun yarn:

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Lecturer
[ Fig: Siro-spun yarn manufacturing process ]
Single yarns are plied to attain particular physical characteristics that cannot be obtained with a
single yarn of similar count to the plied yarn. A plied yarn is produced by doubling and twisting
of two or more single yarns together. Extra assembly winding and twisting processes make the
ply yarn production much more expensive than the equivalent single yarn. In recent times, due to
production costs, there is ever increasing interest in the industry to the topic of new spinning
methods which enable the plied yarn production with a single operation. One of the alternative
spinning methods is Siro spinning system. In this system, two strands are spun on conventional
ring spinning frame by feeding two rovings. The rovings are drafted simultaneously with a
predetermined separation. Following the drafting, two strands of fibres are combined and twisted
together on the same spindle using the conventional ring and traveler arrangement. The yarn has
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Lecturer
unidirectional twist like a single yarn but the fibres are bound sufficiently for the yarn to survive
downstream processes.
Siro spinning process combines spinning, doubling and twisting in one operation and hence the
system is now widely employed in the textile industry. Other benefits of Siro spinning process
are excellent yarn strength, smooth yarn surface and less hairiness.
8.3.Vario-siro yarn:
For producing colorful vario-siro yarn in ring spinning frame, two rovings are fed continuously
but with different speeds. Feeding of the two rovings is controlled independently by two separate
servo motors. Feeding speeds of two rovings are changed/varied in such a way that the mean
thickness of fibre strand entering the main drafting zone remains constant. As a result, produced
yarn will have varying color composition in cross-section but constant linear density.
By controlling the feeding speed of roving, vario-siro slub yarns are also possible to produce.
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Lecturer
8.4.Why discovery of siro yarn production is so important for worsted fabric

production?
Traditional worsted fabric production uses ‗twofold yarns‘ which require two stages of
production. First a ‗singles‘ yarn is spun on a ring-spinning frame and then two of these yarns are
twisted together on a twisting frame to produce the twofold yarn. Both of these are relatively
low-production, high cost processes, because of physical limitations to the rate at which twist can
be inserted. A singles yarn is not suitable for weaving, because the surface fibers of the yarn are
not tightly enough bound into the yarn structure to survive the abrasive forces it is exposed to on
the weaving loom. In the twofold yarn the surface fibers of each single yarn are continuously
trapped between the two yarns and are thus firmly bound into the yarn structure. The twofold
yarn can be described as a ‗two-strand‘ yarn with twist in each of the individual strands.
In cotton fabric production the abrasion problem of singles yarns is solved by a process known as
sizing, in which the surface fibers are literally glued to the surface by passing the yarn through a
starch solution. This is a much cheaper process than two-folding, but has not proved suitable for
worsted yarns.
The essence of Siro-spun is the combination of spinning and doubling in the one process. At the
same time the productivity of the Spinning Frame is effectively doubled. Fabrics produced from
Siro-spun yarns have a smoother handle than those produced from the traditional two-fold yarns,
which made them particularly suitable for the light-weight, ‗Cool Wool‘ fabrics being introduced
to the trade at the time by the International Wool Secretariat (IWS).
8.5.Write the advantageous characteristics of siro-spun yarn over single yarn

and plied yarn:
a) The use of siro-spun yarns eliminates two processing stages in comparison with the two-fold
yarns production process and consequently, reduces the cost of production.
b) Better abrasion resistance and lower hairiness in comparison with single yarn.
c) Yarn tenacity lies between single yarn and plied yarn.
d) Low pilling tendency.
e) Smooth and luster yarn.
f) The productivity per spindle of the ring frame is effectively doubled.
g) Evenness is good.
h) Uniform dye uptake could be attributed to its better uniformity and less hairiness.
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Lecturer
i) The twist in the yarn is unidirectional.

j) Smooth & good abrasion resistance.
k) Good wear resistance.
l) Better fibre orientations.
m) Fewer joints.
n) No singing & sizing is required.
o) Unwinding is smooth & positive.
p) Fewer variations in the uniformity in the yarn.
q) The fancy yarn is produced by feeding two different colors of rovings.
r) Good moisture management property.
8.6. Applications of Siro-Spun Yarn:
a) SIRO yarns for men‘s, women‘s outerwear in the form of plain & raised clothes.
b) Medium & light quality fabrics for dresses and blouses.
c) Flat woven fabrics for drapery, upholstery, velvets.
d) Knitted fabrics, men‘s socks.
e) Cotton Compact Siro Spun yarns are used for woven & knitted applications.
9.Mosaic Yarns:
The mosaic yarn is a new revolutionary yarn. The yarn is colored striped following a prefixed
pattern. The yarn suddenly changes color, not by dyeing or printing but by a change of the feed
roving. Length of the color portion in striped yarn can be controlled by programming. The
transition from one color to the next is usually extremely short, less than 1 cm, so the change is
clear and precise, no tails of the previous color are dragged behind.
Besides striped yarn, the system can make Moulin yarn (chain yarn), and regular slubs. All these
can be combined at the same time. Multiple variables are precisely controlled such as length,
thickness and randomness.
9.1.Manufacturing process of mosaic yarn:

The different color rovings are fed in the drafting zone. One is fed at the 3rd roller and the
second roving is fed at the second roller. The first roving is not affected by the speed of the
second roller and the second roving is not affected by the third roller. The two roving are thus
drafted without any break draft. When one roving is stopped, the other has to start immediately
after, otherwise the yarn would break. In order to join the end of one roving with the beginning
of the other, a compact system is necessary to make the splicing of both yarns. The speed and
timing of the second and third roller can be controlled independently. So any of the two roving
can be fed at will.
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[ Fig: Mosaic Yarn Manufacturing Process ]
It is also possible to integrate the mosaic and slub effect in a printed yarn. There is no portion in
final yarn body of mosaic slub yarn where two different rovings are doubled. But in the injected
slub yarn, two rovings are doubled together in final yarn body that means there have always a
continuous base portion and an intermittent effect portion. This is the basic distinction between
mosaic slub and injected slub yarn.
9.2.The keys of Mosaic Yarn:
a)Creel:
Ring frame‘s creel has to be modified in order to allow the placement of both types of roving
(base and effect). PinterCaipo can carry on this modification and supply all necessary
components, including creel bars and bobbin hangers (optional under request), as well as the
design of the new optimized creel.
b) Driving Unit:
—High precision brushless servomotors of low inertia and constant pair, with very direct
transmission to machine drafting rollers for a faster reaction.
—Precise mechanical adaptation according to ring frame‘s drafting system.
—In case of upgrade of existing Pinter or Caipo slub system, adaptation of the driving unit to do
injected slub.
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c) Compact Yarn required:

In order to join the end of one roving with the beginning of the other, a compact system is
necessary to make the splicing of both yarns. In case the ring frame is already equipped with a
compact spinning system, it can be used with this purpose.
9.3.Technical Specifications of Mosaic Yarn:
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9.4.Possibilities for Unlimited combinations of Mosaic Yarn:
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10.core-spun yarns:
10.1.Define core spinning and core yarn. What is understood by elastomeric

core spun yarn?
Core-spinning is a process by which fibers are twisted around an existing yarn, either filament or
staple spun yarn, to produce a sheath– core structure in which the already formed yarn is the
core.
Core-spun yarns are two-component structure with Core and sheath. Generally continuous
filament yarn is used as core and the staple fibers used as sheath covering.
One of the most common types of core-spun yarns is the elastomer core-spun yarn, which
involves a core of elastomeric fiber such as polyurethane fiber with a covering of staple fibers.
10.2.Common methods of core yarn production:

The production of Core-spun yarns done successfully by many spinning systems.
1. Conventional core spinning attachment with ring spinning systems

2. Bobtex spinning system
3. Rotor spinning system
4. Friction spinning system and
5. Air jet spinning system. Etc.
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10.3.Discuss the structure of core spun yarn & Write the types of core yarn:
Core yarn has two parts: 1. Sheath & 2. Core
Sheath is always in staple form and core is always a continuous material (filament, ring yarn). In
core polyester/nylon is used as a rigid filament and lycra is used as elastic yarn. Sheath and core
must be of different materials. As sheath, long staple fiber should be used because short staple
fiber cannot give appropriate twist to produce sheath. Core part may be twisted or non-twisted.
Normally used denier is 70 denier for 30-40 Ne core yarn. Textured yarn may be used as core
part
also.
Types of core yarn:
a. Filament core spun yarn: high tenacity man made filament yarn (polyester, nylon) is used as
core part.
b. Elastomeric core yarn: Elastic filament (spandex) is used as a core in centre.
c. Staple core yarn: A staple yarn is used as core part and staple fibers are used as sheath part.
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10.4.What is understood by following notation: 75 D/96/Zero DTY?
75D: denier, 96: No. of filament, Zero: No. of twist, DTY: drawn textured yarn.
10.5. Describe the manufacturing process of core spun yarn in ring spinning
system with diagram:
A special attachment can be retrofitted in conventional ring frame for manufacturing core spun
threads. The roving is drafted in the normal way and the core component is fed into the system at
the front roller nip (see Fig.) through guides and a pre-tensioning device. Core yarn emerges in
close contact with the drafted fibre strand, they are twisted together and the resulting core-spun
yarn has the core component buried in a cover or sheath of staple fibres. The more uniform and
more complete cover is obtained if the fibrous material is fed as a double roving and the core
component is introduced between the two.
Core-spun yarns used commercially are of two types – those with no elastic cores and those with
elastic cores. In the former, nylon or polyester continuous filament is the most common core
component. They are used in such articles as tarpaulins, car safety belts, and net twins, which
require strength and toughness provided by the core combined with such properties as softness
and suitable frictional properties derived from the covering.
Sewing threads are made from polyester cores with cotton fibre coverings. The polyester core
provides the advantages of synthetic thread such as high strength, resistance to abrasion, and
high resistance to chemical and bacteriological attack and at the same time cotton sheath
provides appearance and finish of natural fibre to the thread. To avoid slippage of the sheath
fibres during high sewing speed, the single core-spun yarns are folded to form two or more folds.
The plying core-spun threads results in better strength, less imperfection, balanced structure, and
also ensure no sheath slippage. Two methods can be used for doubling of core-spun yarns:
● Conventional ring doubling
● Two-for-one twisting
Polyester/polyester core-spun yarn is also produced to provide excellent seam strength to

sewing thread. Poly/poly core-spun yarn thread is about 15% stronger than spun polyester thread.
In making a continuous elastomeric core-component (mainly spandex whose extensibility is

about 600-800%), the elastic core component is generally extended by 3.5-5.5 times before
combining with the drafted roving. This can be done by arranging by means of feed rollers of the
spandex whose speed is adjusted as required in relation to the speed of the delivery roller.
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Core-spun elastic yarns are used in the production of stretch fabrics, swimsuits, and other form-
persuasive garments, in which they supplanted covered rubber threads. The amount of spandex
may be as little is 1% in the core-spun yarn; thus the resultant fabric has all the characteristics of
the predominant staple fibre together with the advantages of stretching. The fibre cover provides
good moisture and perspiration absorbency as well as aesthetic qualities, and protects the
spandex core from damage.
[Fig: core spun yarn in ring spinning system]
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10.6. Effect of process variables on the properties of ring core-spun yarns:
The process variables that affect the properties of core spun yarns are:
i) Core-sheath ratio
ii) Pre-tension applied to the core material
iii) Spinning draft
iv) Number of roving feed and
v) Twist
vi) Traveller mass
i) Core-sheath ratio: It has been found that decreasing sheath content will increase the strength
of the core-spun yarn. Apart from this there is an improvement in the extension and the evenness
properties. In the case of core-spun sewing threads, a 2:1 ratio of core sheath gives poor core
coverage, and may raise problem of stripping off the sheath during the sewing, whereas, with a
1:1 core sheath ratio the striping off problem reported to minimize.
ii) Pre-tension to Core material: The pre-tension is needed to regulate the geometrical position
of the filament. This input tension varies with the twist factor, size and the quality of the
filaments used. It was found that pretension of approximately 10% breaking load of the core yarn
provides the optimum covering of core yarn. An introduction of a compensatory tensioner is
used to reduce the tension variation of input core. An extension of 1 % to the core filaments
while feeding to the ring frame ensures no buckling or curling of sheath fibres. If insufficiently
tensioned, the filament will either periodically appear at the yarn surface or become wrapped
around the fibre ribbon as the ribbon being twisted.
iii) Spinning draft: Spinning drafts can be varied to obtain the required yarn count based on the
core the sheath ratio.
iv) Number of Roving feed: The possible ways of feeding the core material at the front roller
-rove feeding (Filament at the center of

the rovings) provides better core positioning and control during spinning influences the structure
and properties of core-spun yarns.
v) Twist: Adequate cohesion in between sheath and core is obtained at high twist rates and it
minimizes the sheath slippage. In addition to this, the filament pre-twist in opposite direction to
the ring twist reduce the sheath slippage. The extension of the core-spun yarn tends to reduce at
higher twist levels.
vi) Traveller mass: The weight of the traveller should be greater than for pure cotton yarns with
the same linear density.
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10.7.Write the advantages and limitations of core yarn production in ring

spinning system:
Advantages:
a) With little effort and with small cost, ring frame can be converted to produce core yarn.
b) No need of complicated attachment
c) Reduction of end breakage in spinning, so production rate is more
d) The same frame can be used for ordinary spinning process if core spinning is not available.
Limitations:
a) In case of roving breakage , 100% filament is produced and in case of filament breakage 100%
cotton yarn is produced.
b) Roller lapping is maximum for tension variation
c) More manpower is required because
i) Piecing is difficult
ii) for continuous tension check
iii) to correct the lapping problem
iv) Tension should be checked continuously
10.8.Describe the core yarn production in rotor spinning system with figure:
Core yarns are also manufactured in rotor spinning system with a view to obtain higher
productivity. For producing core yarn by open-end spinning process, it is necessary to make
some modifications in the conventional rotor spinning machinery. The working principle
illustrating production of open-end core yarn is shown in Figure.
The spinning unit, which is fed by a drafting system, has a self-cleaning rotor with a speed of
around 50,000 rpm. In order to increase the contact area between the yarn arm and the doffing
tube, a copper flange is soldered to the inner end of the doffing tube. The doffing tube is
mounted on ball bearing and is rotated by a small motor. A speed of 5000 rpm in the opposite
direction to that in, which the rotor rotates, is required for the doffing tube to continue spinning.
In order to start spinning the feed is first started as usual in open-end spinning. Then a seed yarn
is allowed to be inhaled through the doffing tube and withdrawn as soon as it reaches the
collecting surface. Then the doffing tube is made to rotate about 5000 rpm in the opposite
direction to that of the rotor. Afterwards a continuous filament is inserted through the feed roller
to the rotor to make contact with a yarn. The filament is drawn through the doffing tube by the
yarn and thus passes straight through the rotor as shown in the Figure. The filament, before
entering into the rotor, must pass through the tensioner to maintain the tension of 15cN. The
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Lecturer
rotating doffing tube acts as a false twister and pushes twist back to the peeling point while the
rotation of the rotor wraps the yarn arm around the continuous filament core. Approximately 10
wraps/cm is sufficient to cover the core.
10.9.Advantages of core yarn production in rotor spinning system:

The possible advantages listed for producing core spun yarns on a rotor spinning system are:
a) The core spun yarn is more likely to retain all the strength contributed by the core component
and the full length of the core component, since the continuous filaments are not twisted during
spinning and will therefore not suffer twist contraction.
b) Since the evenness of rotor spun yarns is better than that of equivalent ring spun structures,
the evenness of rotor core spun yarns is expectedly better than that of equivalent ring core spun
yarns.
c) The bulkiness of rotor core spun yarn should be greater than that of the equivalent ring spun
structures, since the staple fiber yarns spun on the rotor spinning machine are more bulky than
the equivalent yarns spun on the conventional system; thus a reduction in cloth set will be
required to obtain the same cover from rotor core spun yarns.
d) The production rate of the rotor spinning machine in terms of the yarn delivery rate is higher
than that of the ring spinning machine; hence the production rates for rotor core spun yarns
should also be greater than those for conventional systems.
e) The direct winding of the core spun yarn from the rotor onto cheeses or cones eliminates the
rewinding process necessary for the conventional system and thus results in a significant cost
reduction.
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10.10.Uses of core spun yarn:

i) Core-spun yarns with a polyester core and wrapping cotton fibres can produce sewing threads
with a high tenacity and abrasion resistance and low shrinkage that are suitable for high-speed
sewing.
ii) Core-spun yarns with a polyester core and wrapping fibres of cotton or viscose are burnt-out
core-spun yarns.
iii) Core-spun yarns with a polyester core and wrapping antibacterial fibres can produce
underwear, socks and hygienics textiles.
Shell fabrics include denim, corduroy, poplin, khaki, velour, and so on. The end products are
shirts, coats, underwear, sportswear, swimwear, stockings, gloves, elastic bands, medical
bandages, fire hoses, conveyor belts and tents.
10.11.What is understood by skinning back of core yarn?

A common problem associated with core-spun yarns is the slippage of staple fibers relative to the
filament core part because of the abrasive action of further textile processes. which results in the
core filaments appearing in some parts of the core-spun yarn and sheath fibers forming clumps at
one end of these bare filaments. This effect is known as ‗strip-back‘ or ‗barber pole or ‗skinning
back‘.
10.12. Why Use Core Spun Threads For Denim Sewing In Place Of Spun Poly
Threads?
a) Higher strength per size (higher tenacity).
b) Greater uniformity in size, strength and other physical characteristics.
c) A higher initial modulus or resistance to stretching contributing to better loop formation and
reduced seam puckering.
d) Better ply security – fewer unravel type thread breaks.
e) Superior abrasion resistance & durability.
f) Cotton wrapped polyester can used for high-speed sewing machines. 100%Cotton threads has
difficult to accompany the sewing machine with high speed rate, similarly 100%Synthetic
threads has limitations due to high needle temperature. Hence the Core-spun sewing threads can
meet the high speed.
g) Cotton wrapped polyester specific used for cotton fabric or other cotton products.
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10.13.Calculate the required DCP for producing 20 Ne cotton-spandex core

spun yarn in ring spinning frame. [Given, Draft constant of ring frame= 1000,
Roving hank= 1 Ne, Lycra count= 70 Denier]
Answer:
Now
Where, Drafted roving count= N1= ?
Filament count = N2= 70 Denier= 76 Ne [“Den = Tex × 9”]
Core yarn count= N= 20 Ne
So, drafted roving count = 27.14 Ne
Draft required = 27.14 Ne / 1 Ne = 27.14
= 1000/27.14 = 36.85 ≃ 37 [Ans]
11.Neppy yarn:
11.1.Neppy yarn: Neps are small tight bundles of fibres whose presence in yarn are usually
regarded as defect. But neps are deliberately created in producing fancy yarn, called
‗Nepp/Neppy Yarn‘. Neps may be created in multiple colors and sizes so as to produce a more
fancy effect throughout the yarn.
Nepp effect was first made on the woollen system. Later on, this effect was introduced in cotton
and blend yarns. Nepps show strongly contrasting spots on the surface of the yarn.
11.2.Preparation of Nepp:
In order to produce nepp, fibres (white or colored, according to the requirements, most of the
time PET fibres) are fed to a carding machine. The flat is set extremely wide from cylinder to
avoid fibre loss. From the doffer, fibre web is collected prior to sliver formation.
The manufactured web is fed to another carding machine in which only a high-speed taker-in is
in operation. Resultantly, the fibres are overlapped in the taker-in and after a certain time, the
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fibres start to form neps and drop under the taker-in. These neps are collected and stored to feed
to the blow-room to produce neppy yarn.
[ Fig: Neps formation ]
11.3.Production of Nepp yarn:

The fibres and neps are mixed by hand mixing method according to the mixing ratio and fed to
the feed lattice of the cleaning machine in blow-room with cleaning index set to Zero (0) so that
no nep can be removed as trash.
Slivers of Nepp yarn are produced in carding machine with wider flat-cylinder setting to ensure
that nepps are not carded out. Other procedures of yarn formation are carried out as the
production of carded yarn. Spindle speed in ring frame is kept lower (9,000-10,000 rpm) so that
nepps are not lost (fled away) from the high-stress of balloon.
11.4.Classification of Nepp yarn according to color:

i) Mono-color Nepp yarn: Mono-color nepp yarn is of single color contrast used on the ground
yarn.
ii) Multicolor Nepp yarn: Multicolor nepp yarns are made of several colored nepps on the base
yarn.
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12. Mélange Yarn:

12.1. Mélange yarn:
Mélange Yarn is the yarn which is produced with the mixture of raw and dyed fibers therefore
creating a unique mixed color effect with a wavy pattern. The fibers can be in cotton or others.
100% Cotton as well as blended. It is also possible to produce mélange yarn ring frame by
doubling roving of different color to produce ring mélange yarn.
12.2. Type of Mélange Yarns:
1. 100% Cotton Mélange

2. Poly Cotton Mélange
3. Poly Viscose Mélange
4.100% Polyester Mélange
5. Siro Mélange
6. Core spun Mélange
7. Slub injected Mélange
12.3.Important features of mélange yarn:

i. Environmental Friendly: Mélange yarn is a yarn dyed product, which means that part of the
fibers are dyed before mixing into the raw fibers (those fibers that have not been dyed) for
spinning. Mélange yarn processing can save around 50% water compared to the conventional
processing of spinning before dyeing, and reduces around 50% of waste water, which all feature
mélange yarns with apparent advantages of energy saving, emission reduction and environmental
protection. The fabric which knitted by grey mélange yarn is not need to dyeing.
ii. Fashion: Mélange yarns are popular due to their very attractive and unique fabric appearance.
The wavy like effect due to different fibers blending and wide range of color tones due to
different fibers blending makes it much popular and rich in look. Its fabric smoothness is much
better. The fabric may have very soft feel and shiny look.
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12.4.Common problems in making mélange yarn:

Following is the common problems occurring during manufacturing of mélange yarn:
i) Shade variation: Whenever there is the difference between the colors of two ―LOTS‖ of the
same running order, this is termed as ―Shade Variation‖. There will be difference in the color of
the yarn / knitted fabric on the whole, which should be removed in order to avoid rejection of
LOT.
There is variety of reasons of this variation as far as my knowledge is concerned. Some of

them are listed below:
exactly the same
ii) Variation in ratio (esp. in PC/PV/CVC) yarns: This error is observed in Blended mélange
yarn i.e. mostly in PC/PV/ Heather Grey yarn. This can make the shade dark or lighter. This is
because of the increase in percentage of any of the constituents of the yarn. This can be avoided
again by periodic wrapping and sliver hank checking over the draw frames and the Speed frames.
Ratio can also be checked and verified whether the calculations done are exact or not?
iii) Spots in the fabric: This issue is related to quality parameters of the fabric. It tells us about
the final quality of the fabric/ yarn. It should be kept in mind that there should not be any of the
white spots (neps) on the surface of dark shades. Similarly, there should be no dark neps on
lighter shades. So, raw material used should be considered before to avoid such problems. For
instance, any darker shade say 80% is shade and 20% is white cotton. So we should use combed
sliver in mixing recipe instead of cotton bales that may cause the neps in the final fabric. If we
use colour mélange yarns with higher percentage of Viscose, the fabric made with these yarns
will have higher shrinkage.
12.5.Types of mélange yarn on the basis of %dyed fibre:
There are three types of mélange yarn on the basis of %dyed fibre:
i. Ecru mélange – when in yarn up to 7.5% wt. is dyed fibre

ii. Grey mélange – when in yarn more about 15% wt. is dyed fibre
iii. Anthra mélange – when dyed fibres in yarn in between 20-25%
Mélange yarns are produced from mostly cotton and dyed viscose fibres. Nowadays cotton/dyed
cotton and polyester/dyed cotton mélange (PC mélange) yarns are also produced.
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12.6. Give the classification of mélange yarn in general:

Mélange yarn can be classified into two of its vary basic types:
i) Blended mélange yarn
ii) Non‐blended mélange yarn
i) Blended Mélange Yarn:

Such type of yarn in which different fibers are mixed/blended together in a certain fixed ratio for
instance PC (Polyester: Cotton blend) 50:50, PV (Polyester: Viscose) 80:20, CV (Cotton:
Viscose) 60:40 etc. Mélange yarns are generally made with Cotton and Viscose fibers. In these
yarns, the cotton portion will be in light shade and the Viscose portion will be in dark shade.
ii) Non‐Blended Mélange Yarn:

Yarn in which there are no different fibers blended together, but different colored fibers of same
type are used to make the yarn e.g. 100% cotton dyed yarn, etc.
12.7. Applications of mélange yarn?
i) Mélange Yarns are being used in knitwear and denim industry.

ii) In knitwear t-shirts, uppers, trousers, under garments, swim wear, socks, bed sheets, curtains, towels.
iii) In Denim it is mainly used in weft.
13. Textured yarns:
13.1.Textured yarn: yarns of synthetic fibers that differ from ordinary textile yarns in their
greater bulk, strong crimp, loose structure, and, in some cases, high stretchability.
Texturing improves the use characteristics and hygienic properties of synthetic yarns.
13.2. Texturing: Texturing is a process used to increase the volume and the elasticity of
filament fibres. The essential properties of textured yarns and the products made from them are
softness, fullness, a high degree of elasticity, thermal insulation and moisture transporting
properties. All yarns which can be shaped by heat are suitable for texturing. The prime purpose
of texturing filament yarn is to create a bulky structure.
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13.3.Characteristics of textured yarns:

In the majority of the texturing processes, filaments yarns are subjected to mechanical action
(twisting, crimping and pressing, stretching on a sharp edge etc.) with simultaneous heating for
setting the modified structure. Pneumatic texturing may also be employed. Textured yarns differ
from the continuous filament (CF) yarns (called flat yarn) by high bulkiness, crimpiness,
porosity, softness, high elastic extensibility, resilience and warmth. Goods of textured yarns
feature good draping capacity and coverage, air permeability, moisture absorption and
evaporation.These goods present comparatively high hygienic characteristics.
13.4.Applications of textured yarns:

i) Textured yarns are largely used in the knitting industry for manufacturing hosiery, sportswear,
outerwear, and others.
ii) They are successfully used for manufacturing underwear, dressings, suiting and coatings,
blankets, carpets, draperies, etc.
iii) The attractive appearance, high wear resistance, and comparatively low cost of goods
manufactured from textured yarns ensure their high demand.
iv) Textured yarns are mainly made of polyamide and polyester yarns which are enrich with high
strength and elasticity, thermoplasticity and capacity of maintaining the setting effect in
consecutive treatment and usage of goods.
13.5.Fibres used for Textured Yarns:
Textured yarns may be produced either by the fibre producer or trade-texturizer who serves as an
intermediary between the fibre producer and the fabric manufacturer (the user-texturizer).
Texturing may be dome from unoriented/undrawn yarn, partially oriented yarn (POY), or fully
oriented yarns (FOY).
A major source of textured yarns is from fully oriented yarns/filaments. The two major fibres
such as nylon and polyester are used for texturing. Nylon textured yarns are used for sportswear
and ladies hosiery, and polyester textures yarns are for apparel and home furnishing.
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13.6. Objectives of textured yarn production:

Filament is subjected to texturizing process in order to
a) To increase the bulkiness of filament by geometrical deformation.

b) To increase the covering power of fabric.
c) To decrease the luster of filament.
d) To increase the insulation power.
e) To increase the warmth of fabric.
f) To increase the softness of fabric.
g) To increase the air permeability.
h) To increase the moisture absorption (air trapped in interstices of textured yarn retains
moisture.
i) To increase the extensibility, pilling resistance etc.
13.7. Classification of heat-set thermoplastic textured yarns:

There are four general types of heat-set thermoplastic yarns:
i) Coil
ii) Curl
iii) Crimp and
iv) Wavy.
i) Coil Type: (False-Twist Method):
There are basically two types of twisting techniques used on false-twist texturing
machines:
1. Twist tube (spindle) type
2. Friction twisting
a. Bush type
b. Stacked disc type
1. False-twist texturing by spindle:
When a torque is applied to a yarn clamped from two sides, twists of equal amount but of
opposite directions will be inserted from both sides of the twisting mechanism (S twist on one
side and Z twist on the other side). If simultaneously with the application of torque, the yarn is
displaced in longitudinal direction in respect to the twisting mechanism, the yarn will be twisted
before the twisting zone and untwisted after it because of the equal and opposite nature of the
twist.
When a heater box is installed before the twisting mechanism, the twist imparted to the yarn in
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Lecturer
the twisting zone will be set and when the yarn emerging from the twisting mechanism is
untwisted, its structure will retain i.e. the yarn will acquire a coil-like, bulky and springy
character. Thus by the employment of false-twist mechanism and a heater box, high-stretch yarn
may be obtained in a single process stretch mechanism by the continuous method.
Most of the world‘s stretch yarn is made by this method because it is more economical and faster
to produce.
2.a. False-twist friction (bush-type) texturing:

Friction twisting, as the name implies, inserts twist into the yarn by frictional contact with a
rotating head or a bush (as shown in Fig, 12.12 a & b of Goswami & Martindale, page 399). The
yarn attains twist by rolling inside the moving inner surface of a hollow tube of plastic or rubber.
The inner diameter of the cylinder is considerably larger than that of the yarn, which means that
one revolution of the tube produces a very large number of rotations in the yarn, neglecting any
slippage. Consequently, the yarn can be fed at relatively high linear speeds at comparatively low
rotational speed of the twisting unit. Twisting rates of up to 4 million rpm are claimed
commercially, which would correspond to the bush speeds of 20,000 – 25,000 rpm. One great
disadvantages of this system is the large amount of slippage, up to 50%, that occurs during
twisting. This results in uneven crimping of the yarn as compared to the pin-type spindle false-
twist process. But, because of the higher production rate, this system is of increasing commercial
importance in producing fine-denier textured yarn.
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2.b. False-twist friction (stacked disc-type) texturing:

A second type of friction twisting device commonly used in the industry is the stacked disc-type
friction unit (as illustrated in Fig, 12.12 a & b of Goswami & Martindale, page 400-401). In this
principle, the yarn is twisted by frictional contact with the outer surface of the disc sets located
on three shafts. The axes of the shafts are positioned on the apex points of an equilateral triangle.
The stacked disc-type generally has nine discs and the angles of contact of 1000 – 1300 degrees
can be realized effectively. The torsional moment is proportional to the product of the coefficient
of friction of the surface and the contact angle. To assure desirable results, friction surface with a
high coefficient of friction (rubber or plastic) is used.
Friction surface materials such as rubber and polyurethane are commonly used for bush- and
disc-type twisting. Discs have a tendency to wear slower than bushes. Heavy-denier yarns can be
processed easily on disc-type units since they offer less wear and fine-denier is processed in bush
type units.
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iii) Crimp type:
a) Crimp type by Stuffer Box Method:
This process is essentially one of tightly cramming thermoplastic yarn into a container, named
stuffer box, and heat-setting it in this cramped condition, thereby forming a random zigzag
crimp. The yarn is soft and quite bulky, but it has limited stretch.
b) Crimp Type by Gear Method:
In this method, the thermoplastic yarn is passed through the heated closely meshed gears. The
gear is heated so that the crinkle produced in the yarn is permanent. The frequency and
amplitude of the crimp can be varied over a wide range, depending on the type of gears used.
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iv) Wavy type:
Wavy Type by Knit-Deknit Method:

A thermoplastic flat yarn is knitted into a fabric and then heat-set. When the yarns are unraveled
from the fabric, loops remain permanently in the yarn and give a wavy or crimpy structure. The
crimp frequency and shape can be varied by varying the needle gauge on the machine and the
fabric structure such as plain jersey, rib, interlock, double jersey etc.
13.8.Intermingling:
Inter-fiber friction imparted by twist is the main cohesive force that holds a bundle of staple
fibers in spun yarn. The cohesive force among fibers contributes the yarn to carry the stress
during yarn and fabric stage as well as during wearing or industrial application.
13.9.Principle of intermingling process:

Intermingling is a process of imparting inter-filament cohesion by entwining the filaments (flat
and textured filaments) instead of addition to inserting twist. The entwining is usually achieved
by passing the filaments under light tension through the turbulent zone of an intermingling jet
(nozzle).
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13.10.Manufacture of intermingled yarns:

Figure shows a simple intermingling nozzle which consists of a yarn channel, and an air inlet in
the center of the channel. The compressed air impinges on the traversing yarn vertically and
entwining the yarn at regular intervals to form a compact section. No change is created in the
basic filament both physically and chemically, though the filament spatial position is altered.
Therefore the overall yarn properties do not change appreciably i.e. a flat yarn is still flat and a
stretch texture yarn is still stretchable. Intermingling process just imparts intermittent mingled
and opened sections along the filaments by means of a cold air stream.
Intermingling is also termed as tangle lacing, tangling, entanglement, interlacing and comingling.
The latter, however, incorporates intermingling of two end yarn are together to form a single
intermingled yarn. Each mingled section created by the process is referred as ―tangling place,
tangling point, entanglement point, interlace, interlacing point and hip‖.
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Mathematical problems solutions:
1).Question: Calculate the production in kg/shift for TFO. Where spindle speed=1100 rpm,
TPI=18.15, efficiency=95%, no of spindle=192, yarn count=40/2 Ne.
Answer:
Spindle speed
Production in kg/shift =
TPI
11000×60×8×192×0.95
=
18.15×20×840×36×2.2045
= 39.7979 kg/shift (Ans.)
2).Question: Calculate the conditioned count of 500 meters of cotton yarn in tex, if it‘s
ovendry weight is 10 gms.
Answer:
Ovendry weight in gms + standard moisture regain% 1000 meters

Conditioned count in tex= ×
Length in meters 1 gms
The standard moisture

regain of cotton is 8.5%
and it‘s standard moisture
content is 7.83%. 10 + (10×8.5%) gms 1000 m
= ×
500 m 1 gms
= 21.7 tex (Ans.)

[N.B: But without condition the yarn count was=20tex]
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3).Question: Calculate the conditioned count in Ne of 20 kilometers cotton yarn, if it‘s ovendry
weight is 800 gms.
Answer:
Length in yards 453.6 gms
Conditioned count in Ne = ×
Ovendry weight in gms + standard moisture regain% 840 yards
20×103×1.0936 yards 453.6 gms

= ×
800+(800×8.5%) 840 yards
= 13.6 Ne (Ans.)
[N.B: But without condition the yarn count was=14.76 Ne]
4).Question: Calculate the moisture regain, moisture content and conditioned weight of 100 gms of
cotton yarn, if it‘s woven dry wet is found to be 94.5 gms.
Answer: Original weight – Ovendry

weight × 100%
Moisture regain =
Ovendry weight
100 – 94.5
= × 100%
94.5
= 5.82 % (Ans.)
Original weight – Ovendry

Moisture content= weight × 100%
Original weight
100 – 94.5
= × 100%
100
= 5.5 % (Ans.)
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Lecturer
Conditioned weight = Ovendry weight in gms + standard moisture regain%
= 94.5 gms + (94.5×8.5%)
= 102.53 gms (Ans.)
14. The structure and formation of fancy

yarns
Diagrams of these structures are provided in order to provide some framework of understanding for an
overview of the developments in fancy spinning. The yarn structures have necessarily been simplified in
the diagrams that follow, in order to show the important elements of each structure.
14.1 Marl yarn:
The simplest of the fancy effects, a marl yarn is one in which two yarns of the same count and twist, but
of different colours or textures, are folded together to form a balanced yarn. The yarn diagram in Fig.
shows clearly both the alternation of the colours that is the primary effect of a marl yarn, and the plain
structure, which is that of an ordinary folded yarn.
[Fig. Marl Yarn]
14.2 Spiral or corkscrew yarn:
A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that displays a characteristic smooth spiralling of one
component around the other. Fig. shows the basic structure, which can be produced relatively simply on a
doubling frame or under the ring spinning system.
[Fig. Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn]
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Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
14.3 Gimp yarn:
A gimp yarn consists of a twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped around it so as to produce wavy
projections on its surface. This structure is shown in Fig.
[Fig. Gimp Yarn]
Since a binder is needed to ensure the stability of the structure, the yarn is produced in two stages. First,
two yarns of widely differing count are plied together, thick around thin. In the second stage they are then
reverse bound. The process of reverse binding removes most of the twist inserted during the first process.
It is this removal of twist that creates the wavy profiles, by making the effect yarns longer than the actual
length of the completed yarn.
14.4 Eccentric yarn:
An eccentric yarn is an undulating gimp yarn, often produced by binding an irregular yarn, for example a
stripe, slub or knop yarn, in the direction opposite to the initial stage, creating graduated half-circular
loops along the compound yarn. It produces an uneven but relatively controllable texture. Because it can
be produced using one of several different irregular yarns to create the effect, and because the basic
morphology is very similar to that of a gimp yarn, no diagram of the structure has been included, since at
its most straightforward it would be a repeat of gimp yarn figure. .
14.5 Mock-chenille yarn:
A mock chenille does not at all resemble a true chenille yarn in its appearance as a yarn, but when it is
woven into a fabric it will give a very similar effect. It is in fact a doubled corkscrew or gimp yarn, and it
is made by doubling together two or more unbalanced corkscrew or gimp yarns in the reverse direction
with sufficient twist to form a balanced structure.
14.6 Diamond yarn:
A diamond yarn is made by folding a thick single yarn or roving with a fi ne yarn or fi lament of
contrasting colour using an S-twist, and cabling it with a similar fi ne yarn using a Z-twist. A true
diamond yarn will show some compression effect upon the thick yarn from the thin ones, an effect which
in the interests of clarity has been omitted from Fig.
[Fig. Diamond Yarn]
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Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
14.7 Loop yarn:
This compound yarn consists of a core with an effect yarn wrapped around it and overfed so as to produce
almost circular projections on its surface. Figure shows the structure of a loop yarn, simplified by
showing the core as two straight bars. In reality, the core – which for a loop yarn always consists of two
yarns – is twisted, and partially entraps the effect. As a general rule, four yarns are involved, of which
two form the core or ‗ground‘ yarns. The effect yarn or yarns are overfed by 200% or more, and it is
important that these are of the correct type and quality: an elastic and pliable yarn is required with an
even, low twist. The effect yarn or fibre is not completely entrapped by the ground threads, so a binder is
needed. The size of the loops may be influenced by the amount of overfeed, the groove space on the
drafting rollers, the spinning tension, or the twist level of the effect yarn. Loop yarns may also be made
using fibre instead of yarn feeds to create the effect.
[Fig. Loop Yarn]
14.8 Snarl yarn:
Like the loop yarn, the snarl yarn is based around a twisted core, although the core has been shown in
Figure as two parallel bars. A snarl yarn is one that displays ‗snarls‘ or ‗twists‘ projecting from the core.
It is made by a similar method to the loop yarn, but uses as the effect a lively, high-twist yarn, and a much
greater degree of overfeed.
[Fig. Snarl Yarn]
Page 47 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
14.9 Knop yarn:
A knop yarn is one that contains prominent bunches of one or more of its component threads, arranged at
regular or irregular intervals along its length, as shown in very simplified form in Fig.
[Fig. Knop Yarn]
14.10 Stripe yarn:
A stripe yarn contains alternating elongated knops, revealing a separate core. The sections of yarn
between the knops take on the appearance of a multi-threaded marl yarn.
14.11 Cloud or grandrelle yarn:
A cloud or grandrelle yarn is made using the apparatus used to create knop yarns. The two threads of
different colours used to create the yarn are manipulated in such a manner that each thread alternately
forms the base and cover to ‗cloud‘ the opposing thread. It is made by alternate fast and slow deliveries
from two pairs of rollers. Because the yarns alternate in forming the base yarn, no dedicated core yarn is
required. The structure is shown in Fig.
[Fig. Cloud or Grandrelle Yarn]

14.12 Button yarn:
The ‗button‘ is an intermittent effect, created by a sudden pause in the progress of the core yarns, which
allows a build-up of the effect material, usually in this case a sliver or roving ( Fig. 4.12 ). While in yarn
form it can offer a truly dramatic effect, it is less than straightforward to process into fabric, and in
practice it is usually found in its more discreet manifestations. The exception to this is of course in hand
knitting yarns, since it can be expected that a hand knitter will be able to devote the time and care
required to achieve a successful result.
[Fig. Button Yarn]
Page 48 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
14.13 Fasciated yarn:
This is a staple fibre yarn which, by virtue of the method used in its manufacture, consists of a core of
parallel fibres bound together by wrapper fibres. The yarns produced under the hollow spindle method are
also frequently described as fasciated, since the binder is applied to an essentially twistless core of
parallel fibres.
[Fig. Fasciated Yarn]
14.14 Tape yarn:
Tape yarns may be made by a variety of methods, and take the form of fl at ribbons or tapes. In recent
years, these materials have become better known, especially in fashion knitwear. They may take the form
of genuine ribbons or tapes, woven on narrow-fabric looms, or they may have a knitted or braided
structure.
14.15 Eyelash or feather yarn:
The eyelash or feather yarn has an asymmetric structure consisting of a looped spine or core, with a
fringe of effect yarn to one side of it. It is created using enhancements to the chainette process and is
popular in fashion knitwear, where it creates a shaggy pile effect. In F ig. 4.15 the eyelash yarn has been
shown with both cut and uncut fringe loops.
[Fig. Eyelash or feather Yarn]
14.16 Chenille yarn
Figure shows the basic structure of a chenille yarn. It consists of a cut pile, which may be made of a
variety of fi bres helically disposed around the two axial threads that secure it. Chenille yarns are
traditionally used in the manufacture of furnishing fabrics and trimmings, fashion knitwear, and as
decorative threads in embellishment.
Page 49 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
15. Yarn Designation:

15.1 Yarn Designation
The factors or parameters which are required to express the yarn structure and properties are called yarn
designation.
15.2 The factors of yarn designation
The factors are:

I. Linear density.
II. Number of filament.
III. Number of components in folding.
IV. Direction and amount of twist.
V. Number of components in cabling.
VI. Fiber components.
15.3 Systems and rules of yarn designation
Two systems can be used for yarn designation.
I. Single-to-fold notation (preferred)

This is the preferred system, where single component of the yarn is described first, followed by a
description of how the components are combined together to make up the resultant yarn.
II. Fold-to-single notation

This notion is opposite to the single-to-fold notation. The whole structure is described first, followed by a
description of its components.
15.4 General rules
The following general rules should be noted:
I. Use tex for staple spun yarns and dtex for filament yarns.
II. "fn" indicates numbers filaments in a single mono (n=1) or multifilament yarn.
III. "t0" indicates components combined without twist.
IV. "Rxyz tex" specifies the "resultant" count of the yarn (xyz tex) in its final form.
V. Specification after a semi-colon is optional
The following sections list examples of yarn designations.
15.5 Single yarns
The details used in the designation of spun yarns include:

 Linear density (tex)
 Direction of twist (S or Z)
 Amount of twist (turns per metre)
Page 50 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
For example, the designation “40 tex Z 660” describes a spun yarn that has a count of 40 tex,
with a twist level of 600 turns per metre, and the twist is applied in Z direction.
15.6 Mono-filament yarns
The details used in the designation of mono-filament yarns include:

 Linear density (dtex)
 Symbol f
 Symbol t0 if not twisted; otherwise twist direction and amount
For example, the designation “17 dtex f1 t0” describes a mono-filament (f1) yarn with a count of
17 dtex, without any twist (t0) in the yarn.
15.7 Multi-filament yarns
The details used in the designation of multi-filament yarns include:

 Linear density
 Symbol f
 Number of filaments
 Symbol t0 if not twisted; otherwise twist direction and level
 Resultant linear density
For example, the designation “140 dtex f40 t0” means a multi-filament yarn with a count of 140 dtex,
consisting of 40 individual filaments which are not twisted. Please note that the linear density of each
individual filament will be =140/40 =3.5 dtex.
15.8 Multiple wound yarns
These are the yarns that have several components wound up together, without inserting any twist. This is
also known as assembly wound yarns
i. Multiple wound yarns with similar components

The details used in the designation of such yarns include:
 Notation according to single yarn used
 Multiplication sign, .
 Number of single yarns laid together
 Symbol t0
Example:“40 tex S155 2 t0”
ii. Multiple wound yarns with dissimilar components

 Notation according to single yarn used, connected by the addition sign + and put in brackets
 Symbol t0
Example: “(25 tex S420 + 60 tex Z80) t0” (Can you describe this yarn?)
Page 51 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
15.9 Folded or plied yarns
These are the yarns that have several components twisted up together.
i. Folded yarns having similar components

 Notation according to single yarn used
 Multiplication sign.
 Number of single yarns twisted together
 Direction of folding twist
 Amount of folding twist
Example: “34 tex S600 2 Z400; R69.3 tex”

A singles yarn of 34 tex with a twist of 600 turns per metre in S direction is twisted together with another
yarn of the same descriptions. The folding twist is 400 turns per metre in Z direction, and the resultant
yarn count is 69.3 tex (slightly higher than 34 x 2 due to twist contraction).
ii. Folded yarns having similar components

 Notation according to single yarn used, connected by the addition sign + and put in brackets
 Direction of folding twist
 Amount of folding twist
Example: “(25 tex S420 + 60 tex Z80) S360; R89.2 tex” (Can you describe this yarn?)
15.10 Cabled yarns
Cabled yarns have several components, which can be either similar or dissimilar in structures.
i. Cabled yarns having similar components

 Notation according to folded yarn used
 Multiplication sign, .
 Number of folded yarns cabled together
 Direction of cabling twist
 Amount of cabling twist
Example: “20 tex Z700 2 S400 3 Z200; R132 tex” (Can you describe this yarn?)
Page 52 of 53
Md.Redwanul Islam
Lecturer
ii. Cabled yarns having dissimilar components

 Notation according to single and folded yarns used, connected by the addition sign + and put in
brackets.
 Direction of cabling twist
 Amount of cabling twist
Example: “(20 tex Z700 3 + 34 tex S600) Z200; R96 tex” (Can you describe this yarn?)
15.11 Single-to- fold versus fold-to-single notations
So far we have used the preferred single-to-fold notation for yarn designation. Examples of fold-to-single
notation are given below, together with their equivalent single-to-fold notation.
Example 1:
133 dtex f40 S 1000; R 136 dtex (single-to-fold)
R 136 dtex f 40 S 1000; 133 dtex (fold-to-single)
This (fold-to-single) describes a multifilament yarn of 136 dtex after twisting to 1000 t/m in the S
direction. Before twisting, the count was 133 dtex, and the individual filament linear density is 133/40 =
3.3 dtex.
Example 2:
20 tex Z 700 x 2 S 400 x 3 Z 200; R 132 tex (single-to-fold)
R 132 tex Z 200 / 3 S 400 / 2 Z 700; 20 tex (fold-to-single)
This (fold-to-single) describes a cabled yarn built up from a singles yarn of 20 tex with 700 t/m Z, plied
with itself with 400 t/m S, which is subsequently three-plied with 200 t/m Z twist.
Example 3:
(25 tex S 420 + 60 tex Z 80) S 360; R 89.2 tex (single-to-fold)
R 89.2 tex S 360 / (S 420 + Z 80); 25 tex + 60 tex (fold-to-single)
This describes a two ply yarn with dissimilar components, plied together in the S direction with 360
t/m.
15.12 Review questions

Describe yarns with the following designations:
a. (25 tex S420 + 60 tex Z80) S360; R89.2 tex

b. (25 tex S420 + 60 tex Z80) t0
c. (20 tex Z700 3 S400 + 34 tex S600) Z200; R96 tex
d. 20 tex Z700 2 S400 3 Z200; R132 tex
Page 53 of 53

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Md.

3.Two-for-One Twister (TFO):

[ Fig: Two-for-One Twister (TFO) ]

4.1.Why conditioning is needed?

[ Fig: Cotton process & moisture content ]

# Vacuum / Mechanical conditioning.

# Vacuum / Mechanical conditioning:

[ Fig: Mechanical Conditioning ( XORELLA )]

Different types of humidifiers are available:

# Spray type air washers.

# Pan evaporative humidifiers.

# Electrically operated humidifiers.

# Air operated humidifiers.

# Spray type air washers:

# Pan evaporative humidifiers:

# Electrically operated humidifiers:

Dry-steam electrically operated humidifiers operate by means of a solenoid valve, which is

# Air operated humidifiers:

5.Moisture content (M)&Moisture Regain (R):

Mass of absorbedwater in specimen(W )

5.1.Calculate the commercial mass to invoice (cw):

450 100  18.25

Metallic fibre, in textiles, synthetic fibre, known generically as metallic,

6.1.Manufacturing Process of Metallic Yarns:

[Fig. Preparation of metal yarns by slitting of metalized film]

6.2.Properties of the Metal Yarns:

6.3.Types of metal coating:

6.4.Applications of Metallic Yarn:

7. These yarns are used in conductive textiles (smart textiles).

8. Widely used in sarees

7.What is Slub Yarn:

7.2.Factors affect the visual effect of slub yarns:

Specification of slubs consists of the following dimensions:

i) Number of slubs per unit length (Numbers)

7.3.Slub yarns can be classified according to their visual effect:

7.4.Production of slub yarn (Ground/Positive) in ring frame:

6. The controller controls the following:-

 After how much time (mili second) the speed of back

 How longer the increased speed will remain.

 Amount of speed that to be increased.

[Fig.: Production of slub/positive slub

7.5.Classification of slub yarns:

[Fig.: Production of inject slub yarn in ring frame]

7.6.Production of Slub Yarn in Rotor Frame:

[ Fig. Production of Slub Yarn in Rotor Frame ]

7.7.Challenges for slub yarn spinners:

7.8.Typical faults in slub yarns :

7.9.Uses of slub yarn:

8.1.Benefits of Siro Yarn:

8.2.Manufacturing of Siro-spun yarn:

[ Fig: Siro-spun yarn manufacturing process ]

8.4.Why discovery of siro yarn production is so important for worsted fabric

8.5.Write the advantageous characteristics of siro-spun yarn over single yarn

c) Yarn tenacity lies between single yarn and plied yarn.

d) Low pilling tendency.

e) Smooth and luster yarn.

f) The productivity per spindle of the ring frame is effectively doubled.

i) The twist in the yarn is unidirectional.

8.6. Applications of Siro-Spun Yarn:

9.1.Manufacturing process of mosaic yarn:

[ Fig: Mosaic Yarn Manufacturing Process ]

9.2.The keys of Mosaic Yarn: