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Chernivtsi Region: Bila Krynytsa (Hlybovytskyi District)
Chernivtsi Region: Bila Krynytsa (Hlybovytskyi District)
Chernivtsi region
Bila Krynytsa
(Hlybovytskyi district)
One of the most exotic places in Chernivtsi is small village Bila Krynytsa, which is
located four kilometres from the Romanian border. It is well-known because of its
citizens, Russian Old Believers or Lipovans. In 1784 Old Believers settle in
Varnytsa, which is commonly known as Bila Krynytsa. Settlers introduced in the
village their own conduct of life, which influenced a look of village with typical
wooden houses, wooden hence and certainly bath,which was enkindle very hard.
Austrian power was interesting in settling of Bukovina and that’s why was treated
leniently to Old Believers. In 1783 Yocyf II exempted them from tax and
guaranteed freedom of belief due to Tsisarskyi patent. From that time Bila
Krynytsa was a center of rehabilitation of hierarchy of Russian Old Believers
diaspora. On the verge of XIX-XX ‘Bilokrynytskyi osidok’ became commonly
popular, because the representatives of Russian elite, such as L. Tolstoi and O.
Hertsen, were interested in it and support it. In 1844 on the basis of
Bilotkrynytskyi friary eparchy was built, and since 1846 it became hierarchy with
metropolitan (Bilokrynytska metropolia), which ordained priests and bishops for
Old Believers through out the world. In 40th last century metropolia was transferred
to Romania and it is there now.
Before Russian power Bila Krynytsa numbers approximately twenty temples, cells
and other cultural buildings, which made this village real religious center. Up till
now only two sacred (holy) places were not devastated. On of them is wooden
Kosmodemyanska church of XVIII, the other is majestic brick Assumption
Cathedral 1990-1908. Cathedral was built in eclectic style with traditional Moscow
Construction, the project was made by architect V. Klik, the money were given by
prince O. Ovsyannikov, in memory of his son who make away with himself
because of unfortunate love. They built this cathedral in order to redeem the soul
of son from hell and make a present for God. Outwardly it looks like Blessed Basil
of Moscow. Cathedral combined all achievements in building technology and arts
and crafts of its time. Cathedral is made of bricks and is tiled with varnished blue,
dark blue and green tiles, it has internal decoration. Thus, cathedral is majestic and
luxurious, but it is unusual to see not whiten walls, which should be paint with
Biblical paintings. There are a lot of unique icons of XVIII inside the building,
beautiful iconostasis made by Suzdal, Moscow and Novgorod masters compel
admiration. Ancient books are kept there, there ag e is eight centuries.
It is worth to go upstairs to steeple. Here, from bird's eye view a village spreads
before the eyes. Near you can see a settlement, which belong to Romania, Old
Believers live there. After finishing of cathedral building in 1908, it had stood
without changes up till 1946, when communist power transformed it on collective
farm. Liturgy in cathedral renovated in 1992 when Ukraine became independent.
Luzhany
(Kitsmanskyi district)
The village Luzhany is located near Chernivtsi on the way to Khotyn. First of all it
is well-known because of Voznesenska church – the oldest temple in Bukovina, is
the majestic example of Bukovina-Moldavia architecture of Middle Ages. This
small size church has thick stone walls up to 1,5m. It fortified by stone buttress,
which resist any storm. Throughout its existence church obtained extension, such
as wooden parts of roof and decorative bathes on the top.
In native literature this temple dates back to 1453-1455. Thus, recent researchers
showed that this church is older, because high-art painting dates back to XIII-XIV.
The walls of Voznesenska church are also covered by ancient inscriptions different
languages. You can find warrior inscriptions, such as: ‘Stefan from town Kolomyia
was here’, ‘Yakiv and Pavlo from Lviv were here’ and others. It means that
through out centuries temple was robbed and devastated, especially in times of
Poland and Turkey opposition.
Khotyn
(district center)
Khotyn is one of the most attractive historic places in Ukraine. Unique
combination of stone cape, on which Dnieper coast is rising above, picturesque
landscape, interesting history attracts tourists from different countries. The history
of Khotyn is a story about wars, victories, defeats, full of secrets and riddles, is
fully connected with a lot of great empires and states. One version of the origin of
name of the city is that it comes from Slavic word ‘Khoten’, the correspondence in
current language is adjective ‘desirable’. The other version is that it comes from
name of Kotyzon, who was the fugleman of Daks tribes.
In the times of Kyivan Rus (XI-XIII) Khotyn was notable population centre. It
covers more than 20 hectares. At that time Khotyn fortress was wooden. In the
middle of XIII c. after conquest of Rus by Mongols Galych-Volun prince Danylo
Galytskyi ordered to built there stone strengthening, which guarded notable
crossing in Dniester and contain assaults of steppe nomad.
Through out XV-XVI c. Khotyn fortress was residence of Moldavian masters. Due
to the thickness and good location Khotyn has become a center of development of
handicraft and trade, which fosters prosperity of culture and economy of city.
Voyevoda Stefan III the Great strengthen the sides of fortress. From that time
Khotyn fortress is guarded by six towers, 60 m high, which resembles to 16 stored
building. There were deep basement inside the fortress, which serves like rooms
for warriors. At that time 65 m long well was dig.
After decline of Moldavian principality the city and the fortress came to turkeys,
they reinforce the fortress. In XVII c. Khotyn composed to Poland. In September
– at the beginning of November the Khotyn war was in the progress, and it became
one of the crucial moments in the history of Osman empire. 35 thousand of Poles
and 40 thousand of Ukrainians under the leadership of Latvian hetman Yan Karol
Hodkevuch and hetman of Zaporozhian Cossacks Petro Konashevych-
Sahaidachnyi were fight with 200 thousand Turkey-Tatar troops, which had
powerful guns and four fighting elephants. Unsuccessful Turkey attacks lasted
whole month. At the same time Cossacks killed and demobilize Turkey troop, as a
result of this Turkeys were forced to sign profitable for Poland and for whole
Europe peace treaty.
The other well-known event in the history of Khotyn fortress was written in the
11th of November 1673, when hetman Yan Sobevskyi at the head of 30 thousand
Pole-Latvian-Cossack troops defeated 40 thousand Turkey army. The crucial
moment of this attack became attack of hussar voyevoda Yablonskyi. Only a few
thousand of Turkeys were rescued from death and bondage.
The wars with Turkeys lasted a long time. Only at the beginning of XVIII c. they
could stay in Khotyn fortress. New masters improved strengthening of citadel. In
1711-1718 France engineers made a reconstruction of stronghold, strengthen its
size, built additional banks with bastions and dig fosse. At that period Khotyn
strengthening became the most powerful node of Osman empire defence in the east
of Europe.
But Turkey did not stay for a long time in the city. Through out XVIII c. Russian
troops conquered Khotyn walls for four times, it impaired Turkey army. The last
fight which decided the fate of Khotyn happened in 1807 when Russian troops
blocked the fortress and forced them to defeat.
At the time of Russian supremacy, instead of renovate actions, the church for
military was built in the fortress. It was sanctify by the name of Alexander Nevskyi
(1832). It is interested that up till 1941 opposite church there was minaret – towel
of last epoch. It was ruined at the beginning of World War the second by troops of
Red army.
At present, fortress is great museum object, which impresses its beauty, power and
territory. A lot of favorite historic films are shot here.
Chernivtsi
(regional center)
The city Chernivtsi belong to most beautiful cities of Ukraine and it is located on
picturesque hills, near river Prut. It is supposed, that its name comes from populous
city-fortress on the South borders of Galych state, its name was ‘Chern’ or
“Chorne misto’. Probably, this name was taken from oak walls of fortress, which
was fully ruined by Mongol conquer Burundai, and from 1259 its citizens settled in
right bank of the river Prut. From 1359 the city became a part of Moldavian state.
First written mentions about Chernivtsi were find in manuscripts of Moldavian
master Alexander Dobryi, which he gave Lviv merchants on the 8th of October
1408. Every year this date is celebrated as the official city day. At that time
Chernivtsi was situated in the cross road from the North-West Europe to Balkany
and to Turkey. From 1457 this city became the place where fairs took place and the
administrative center of the whole region. At the time of its existence Chernivtsi
was several times destroyed and was under the press of Osman empire. During
1774-1918 was the part of Austrian-Hungary Empire and during 1918-1940 –
Romania. Through out the ages under the influence of historical events Chernivtsi
was formed as multinational and multicultural city. It was possible to hear 5
languages in the streets: German, Romanian, Polish, Yiddish and Ukrainian.
Armenians, Poles, Checks, Hungarians and Russians also lived here. But during
Austrian reign till 1918 German language was major language.
Univ
(Peremyshlianskyi district)
The village Univ is situated in 12 km from district center Peremyshliany, in this
village you can find architectural complex defensive monastery Univ Holy
Dormition Lavra. Its unique historic monument of East monasticism, Univ Holy
Dormition Lavra is a one of the oldest monastic complexes of Ukraine. The newest
archaeological materials confirm availability of monastery out of the end of XIII c.
During its existence monastery experienced prosperity and decline, they were
caused by robber attacks of Tatar army on Ukrainian territory. Available written
mentions are that in 1549 ‘monastery was fired by Tatars’. After that the nobleman
Vanko Lahodovskyi started building of defensive church on healing source.
The most valuable thing of architectural complex of monastery became temple St.
Mary's Basilica (1549-1574) is the temple of period of transition from late Gothic
to Renaissance. Loophole in frieze, which stretches out of the roof, affirms about
defensive character of building, it’s belonging to churches- stronghold.
At the end of XVI c. in monastery started to build four towers and walls between
their. In such a way temple stand in the middle of defensive quadrangle, under its
walls 12 stone cells were situated. The monastery was banked. From that time such
a building obtained the fame of fortress with powerful defensive abilities. A lot of
stuff was taken there ‘to the good place with walls’.
Up till 1700 the monastery was orthodox, and union was taken with Lviv
Archidioecesis.
The period of prosperity and build of monastery is fully connected with old
Ukrainian notable family Sheptytskych. In the second part of XVII c. –first part of
XVIIIc. the archimandrites of monastery were Varlaam (from 1668) and Atanasii
(from 1713). Andrei Sheptytskyi renewed the monarchy life of Orthodox East and
Kyivan Rus, which obtained the name ‘studite’. The idea of metropolitan was
continued by his brother, Klymentii. With his help in the period of World War the
second approximately 150 Jewries were rescued in the monastery.
The monastery suffered from destruction particularly in the Soviet times. In 1950
the monastery was closed, the monks were expelled, 80 years old Klymentii was
arrested. Firstly there have been made a concentration camp for Catholic ministry,
then – a shelter for old people, which was conversed on psycho neurologic
boarding house. From 1991 the monastery was given to monks of Studite Rite.
Urych
(Skoliv district)
In six kilometers of Shidnytsa on the way to Verhnie Synovydne left you can see
huge rock with some distant jut. As usual there are a lot of nice legends about this
unique nature and human creation.
Stare village
(Pystomytiv district)
In Stare village you can find the ruins of the greatest castle in Ukraine. Building
has a form of improper pentagon, has a size approximately two hectares, not
including big fosse and bank, which surrounded defensive walls. Massive, irregular
towers with its sophisticated figures contrast with deaf equal walls, emphasizing
solidity of all building. The most attractive is East tower; it has the form of crown.
The stronghold was built in the second part of XVI c. by Ostrozki princes on the
project of well-known Lviv architect Ambrozii Pryhylnyi. In 1620 the castle was
ruined by Turkeys. The stronghold was renewed on the money of son of prince
Zaslavskyi Vladyslav Dominik. They built the walls, and then they were ruined by
Cossacks of Bohdan Khmelnytskyi in 1648. The building was rebuilt, but it was
lately attacked by Cossacks, Tatars and Turkeys.
At the beginning of XVIII c.Adam Synyavskyi repaired the castle, keeping its
defensive character. Thus in XIX c. new owners – Pototski – located brewery in it,
which started the process of gradual degradation of a building. Nowadays,
unfortunately, the castle is in neglected state.