Eastern & Central Europe Travel Guide
Eastern & Central Europe Travel Guide
eastern and
central europe
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
EASTERN AND
CENTRAL EUROPE
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Senior Editorial Manager Savitha Kumar
Senior Design Manager Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Arundhti Bhanot
Project Designer Mathew Kurien
Editors Jyoti Kumari, Parvati M. Krishnan, Jayashree Menon, Beverly Smart
Designers Kaberi Hazarika, Rajnish Kashyap, Saroj Patel, Neha Sethi
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya
Senior Cartographer and Assistant Manager Suresh Kumar Forested hills, Western Tatras, Slovakia
Cartographer Mohammad Hassan
DTP Designers Rakesh Pal, Azeem Siddiqui
Senior Picture Research Coordinator Taiyaba Khatoon Contents
Main Contributors
Jonathan Bousfield, Matthew Willis How to Use This Guide 6
Main Photographer
Jonathan Smith
Visiting Eastern
Illustrators
Chinglemba Chingtham, Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, T. Gautam Trivedi
and Central
Europe
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 2010 Putting Eastern and
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Central Europe on
Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc.,
the Map 14
345 Hudson Street, New York 10014
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright Eastern and
reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored
in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form,
Central Europe
or by any means (electronic, mechancial, photocopying, recording, or
otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright
at a Glance
owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
Landscapes 26
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554
Great Capitals 28
ISBN 978-1-46542-704-5
Historic Cities 30
Czech Republic
222
Embroidered hood of Bishop Trzebicki’s
Slovakia 286 cope, Cathedral Museum, Krakow
Latvia 74
Estonia 98
Moscow and
St Petersburg 122
The coloured map on the inside front South Eastern Europe at a Glance Peleş Castle (see pp558–9) is
nestled in the Transylvanian Alps.
3 city chapters in this guide. Orthodox monasteries and Muslim holy sites in the same
region. The region’s island-scattered Adriatic coast and the
golden-hued sands of Romania and Bulgaria offer ample
SOUTH
EASTERN
EUROPE
0 miles 100
Mount Triglav (see pp418–19),
the highest peak in Slovenia, stands at
the heart of a national park filled with
jagged summits, evergreen woodland
and glacier-carved lakes. Suceava
Satu Mare
1 At a Glance
Iaşi
Oradea
Târgu
Maribor Cluj-Napoca Mureş
Braşov
Bârlad
Galaţi
towns and sights in the countries Zagreb (see pp466–73), capital of Croatia
(see pp430–483)
Zadar
(see pp484–501)
Jajce
Sarajevo
Zvornik
Požarevac
SERBIA
(see pp520–541)
Craiova
Bucharest
Constanţa
covered by each of the guide’s and an important regional cultural centre, Calafat Ruse
Užice Paraćin
boasts a fine collection of museums and Split Jablanica
Pleven
galleries and a year-round supply of Niš Montana Sofia (see pp578–85), capital of
Varna
top-quality music and theatre. MONTENEGRO Bulgaria, is rich in Roman
Veliko Tûrnovo
Sofia
BULGARIA
(see pp574–611) Burgas
remains, medieval treasures
and Orthodox churches. The
cavernous Neo-Byzantine
Aleksandûr Nevski Memorial
medieval Bosnian capital, is a Podgorica
History
During the 5th and 6th centuries the
Slavs arrived in the Danube Lowlands,
but they were later conquered by the
Danube Lowlands, including much
of modern-day Slovakia. From this
period the Czechs and Slovaks were
exposed to different cultural and
political influences. In 1025, the Slovak
Lands became part of the kingdom
of Hungary. The turning point in
2 Country Introduction
This section gives the reader an
insight into the country’s history,
nomadic Avars. In 795 the Avars were Slovakia’s history came with the Battle
beaten by Charlemagne (r. 742–814), of Mohács (1526), when the invading
geography and culture. A chart lists
the key dates and events in the
country’s history.
Bos
16
Prijedor 17
a
Modriča
independence from Austria, and led themselves, while the Bosnian Serbs
Un
Omarska Brčko
Laktaši
Bihać Kotorsko
Bijeljina
the radical Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip created Republika Srpska (the Serb 5 Sanski Most
Banja Luka
15 Gračanica Srebrenik
to assassinate the Austro-Hungarian Republic) within the borders of Bosnia Kulen Bosanski Kotor Varoš
Spr
eč 4 Janja
Sa
heir Franz Ferdinand and his wife in and Herzegovina. The army of the
16
a
a
Vr
17
Un Bočac b
ac Ključ Tuzla
an
14-2
Žepče Živinice
Mrkonjić
extent, the Croatian army, carried Drvar Grad Jajce Zvornik
18
a Travnik
v
Kupres
16
Podromanlja SERBIA
1
Gornji Vakuf
trade agreement between Bosnia SARAJEVO
creating a single Bosnian state made
16
3
Motorway
20 Goražde
King Tvrtko I Major road Jezero Konjic a
17
Foča rin
of the country and a Serb republic Ne
D
Tjentište
International border
1908 Austria-Hungary annexes Bosnia Despite sharing a common Mostar
Međugorje 6-1
and Herzegovina
government, Bosnia’s ethnic
17
the order in which the sights 2006 Constitutional amendment for EU integration
rejected in Parliament
Islam have combined with Austro-
Hungarian and Catholic traditions
to create a unique culture. Church of St James in the central square at Međugorje
0 miles 50
are covered in the chapter. For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
4 Street-by-Street Map
This gives a bird’s-eye
view of interesting and
402 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Street-by-Street: Ljubljana
Old Town
Located between the medieval castle and the leafy
A funicular railway from Krekov
Square transports visitors to the
wooded Castle Hill.
LJUBLJANA 403
VO
The Town Hall, a Renaissance
D
Statue of
N
building dating from 1719, has
IK
Valentin an attractive courtyard.
O
A suggested route takes in some
V
Vodnik
SQ
U
A
R
E
A
of the area’s most fascinating and
D
A
M
IČ
L
U
attractive streets. N
D
R
O
V
O
N
A
B
2 St Nicholas’s Cathedral
R MESTN
E I TRG
Ž
The cathedral’s bronze doors, JE
decorated with scenes from The Market
the history of Christianity in Colonnade, an
Slovenia, were created in 1996 elongated pavilion
to commemorate the visit of built by architect
Pope John Paul II to Ljubljana. Jože Plečnik in 1939,
houses food shops JE
and a fish market. EŽ
BR
A
N Fountain of the Three Rivers
The Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) was VO of Carniola
JE
Key designed for pedestrians by Jože AR Completed in 1751, Francesco Robba’s
NK
Plečnik in 1932 as part of the reno- CA Fountain of the Three Rivers symbolizes
Suggested route vation of the riverbank area. the three main rivers of Slovenia.
RNOV T
9 Royal Palace medieval religious objects
ŠE
E
and National collected during the PR
couple’s travels. Franciscan Church of
Art Museum
ČOPOVA
the Annunciation
Palatul Regal şi Muzeul Ljubljana’s most attractive
Naţional de Arta w Museum of the Baroque church, with a
0 metres
Calea Victoriei 49–53. Map D3. Romanian Peasant single nave and two rows 50
Tel (021) 313 3030. @ 178. Open Muzeul Ţăranului Roman of lateral chapels, con- 0 yards 50
ULIC
May–Sep: 11am–7pm Wed–Sun; Oct– tains a splendid 18th-
Apr: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 = Str Şoseaua Kiseleff 3. Map C1. century altar by Italian The Prešeren Statue,
∑ mnar.arts.ro Tel (021) 317 9661. @ 300. sculptor Francesco one of Ljubljana’s best-known
A
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Robba, richly adorned landmarks, honours Romantic . Ljubljanica Riverbank
An imperial residence since ∑ muzeultaranuluiroman.ro with spiral columns poet and national icon The east bank of the river is lined with willow trees, orange- and red-
the mid-19th century, the and figurines. France Prešeren. roofed townhouses and fabulous terrace cafés and restaurants.
Royal Palace has undergone Housed in a red-brick edifice
several renovations during built in 1906, the Museum of the For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
its lifetime. King Carol I (see Romanian Peasant was intended
p558) was responsible for as a celebration of the country’s Replica of a typical Romanian house at the Village Museum, Herãstrãu Park
much of the current layout, traditions at a time when
redesigned in 1906. Further industrialization was beginning worth a visit. Also of interest the notice of invading tribes.
reconstruction took place to alter the rural face of Romania. are the handmade wooden However, the highlights of
after a catastrophic fire in Transylvanian biblical icons on stained glass, Museum of Art Collections With around 100,000 exhibits, chairs collected from villages the museum are the oak
1926 and heavy bombing in the collection covers the regions around the country, displayed houses from Maramureş
5 Detailed Information
World War II. Its location next 0 Museum of Art 19th-century French furniture of Romania. It includes mock- on the first floor. county, which have beautifully
to Revolution Square led to Collections and tapestries. ups of craftsmen’s workshops, a carved hunting and animal
further damage from gunfire Muzeul Colecţiilor de Arta 19th-century classroom and scenes on their gateways.
in December 1989. numerous colourful traditional e Herăstrău Park The museum shop stocks an
Housed in the north wing
of the palace, the National Art
Museum was opened in 1950
Calea Victoriei 111. Map D3. Tel (021)
212 9641. @ Open May–Sep:
11am–7pm Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr:
10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
q Storck Museum
Muzeul de Arta Frederic Storck şi
Cecilia Cutescu-Storck
costumes. The highlight, how-
ever, is an enormous wooden
18th-century windmill, which
and Lake
Parcul Herăstrău
Str Kiseleff 32. Map F1. @ Village
excellent range of souvenirs.
Cities, towns and other sights
to house the royal family’s art has been reconstructed on the r Museum of Old
collection. It closed in 1989
following the revolution when
as many as 1,000 artworks were
Housed in a Neo-Classical
mansion with a surprisingly
unassuming interior, the
Str V Alecsandri 16. Map D2. @
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
. Gothic Room
3 Bran Castle Distinctly Gothic in style, this vaulted
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Castelul Bran room is furnished with sculptures and Practical Information
furniture dating back to the 14th
Numbers correspond to each sight’s Perched on a rocky bluff, Bran Castle was built in the 13th
century and first used as a defence against the Ottomans.
century. Among these is the 16th-
century wooden sculpture of St Anne.
195 km (121 miles) NW
of Bucharest.
Tel (0268) 237 700.
Although the ruler of Wallachia, Vlad Ţepeş, better known Open Check website for
position on the country map and its as Dracula, never lived here, it is believed that he was briefly
imprisoned here by the Hungarians. In more recent times,
timings. & 8 =
∑ bran-castle.com
Transport
place in the chapter. the castle was the favourite summer residence of Queen
Marie (granddaughter of Queen Victoria of England), who
refurbished the entire building and had electricity installed.
@ from Braşov.
6 Major Sights
Historic buildings are dissected
to reveal their interiors, while Queen Marie’s Music Saloon and Library
Dark wooden floors and rustic furniture create an inviting
. Queen Marie’s
Bedroom
Decorated in Art Nouveau
style, the queen’s bedroom
contains several pieces
of furniture she commis-
sioned herself, including
a rosewood Italian
Baroque bed and an
armchair adorned with
Stars indicate the features that no 60-m (197-ft) deep well led to a passage
that opened out into a park in the valley.
bring in food supplies
in times of siege.
7
best way to ensure personal good standard of service in both increasing number of Baltic central Viru väljak bus stop.
by both domestic and international ferries, with regular services
to Tallinn and the popular island of Saaremaa.
safety. Visitors should never
accept drinks from strangers
and avoid disreputable-looking
business and economy class. The
airline has direct links with several
major European destinations as
Sea cruise itineraries, although
these normally only allow
for a day’s stopover.
There are also limited interna-
tional coach connections to
Pärnu and Tartu. The coach
Practical Information
When to Visit
The best time to visit Estonia is
from May to September when
adhere to EU guidelines. All
visitors should check for any
customs duty or special permis-
nightclubs. It is wise not to
carry any luxury items.
well as many Estonian cities and
islands. Visitors from outside
Europe need to catch a connect-
ing flight from cities such as
Rail Travel
Tallinn’s main railway station,
network is efficiently run and
cheap, and services are clearly
posted in bus stations. Timetables
and fares for international
This section covers topics
Facilities for the Disabled
it is pleasantly warm. July and
August are the warmest months.
Winter, between October and
March, is cold, dark and damp
sion required to export a cultural
object, before buying it. For
detailed information on all these
guidelines, entrance regulations
Although there has been a
significant improvement in
recent years, Estonia is not
London, Copenhagen, Helsinki
or Stockholm.
As a consequence of the EU
“open-skies” policy, which was
Balti Jaam, is a short walk away
from the Old Town. The only
international link is a nightly
train to Moscow. There is no
routes are available on the
carriers’ websites. such as visas, security, travel,
but very atmospheric when
forests are laden with snow.
January, the coldest month,
and visa charges, it is advisable
to visit the official website of the
European Commission.
very well equipped in providing
facilities for the disabled.
In Tallinn, there are several
implemented in 2004, several
economical carriers, such as
easyJet, now provide daily
longer a service to St Petersburg.
Tickets should be pre-booked,
since Russian visa specifications
Travelling by Car
Since 2007, when the Baltic
States agreed to the Schengen
shopping and entertainment.
is best avoided, as is the rainy steep winding cobblestoned flights to Tallinn from London. insist on dates of entry and Agreement (under which sys-
month of April, when the
snow melts and turns sludgy. Visitor Information
The network of information
streets. Trolleybuses, trams
and trains do not provide
wheelchair access and only Arriving by Sea
exit. In 2012, a direct train link
from Tartu to Riga was laid,
avoiding the need to change
tematic border controls were
abolished between Schengen
countries), there are no border
The larger countries are
centres in the country is sup- a few buses do. Estonia is very well served by trains in Valga. restrictions for Schengen visa
Documentation
Citizens of EU member-states,
the US, Canada, Australia and
ported by an equally advanced
structure of tourism websites.
Most towns have a tourist Banking and Currency
ferry, with Tallinn’s Passenger
Port (reisisadam) handling
about 7 million passengers a Travelling by Coach
holders. Crossing the border
from Latvia is easy, especially for
EU passport holders. The border
covered in greater detail.
New Zealand can enter Estonia information office located in or In Estonia, banks are usually year. The main line Tallink has International coach routes crossing with Russia is slower
for a period of up to 90 days in a close to the town square. There open from Monday to Friday routes to Helsinki (Finland), Rostock to Estonia are provided by and border guards are likely
half-year period on presentation are no tourist offices at the land between 9am and 6pm. Major (Germany) and Stockholm Eurolines and Ecolines, which to scrutinize all documents.
of a valid passport. Those borders or at Tallinn airport but banks stay open on Saturdays (Sweden), while other carriers operate connections between Visitors bringing their own car
wishing to stay beyond 90 days there is one at the Tallinn harbour. from 9am to 2pm. Exchange such as Viking Line and Eckerö Tallinn and Berlin, Munich, into Estonia are required to
will need to apply for a national Offices are generally open from bureaus are widespread and Line are accessible from Helsinki Kaliningrad, Warsaw and show the Vehicle Registration
long-term visa or a residence 9am to 6pm on weekdays and for have better exchange rates and Stockholm. Travellers from St Petersburg, among others. document, an international
permit. Visitors from other
countries should enquire at their
local Estonian embassy or consu-
shorter hours on Saturdays; many
are also open on Sundays. The
staff are friendly and speak
than hotels. ATMs are found
everywhere, including petrol
stations. In 2011 Estonia
Helsinki are spoilt for choice,
with a range of catamarans,
International coaches arrive
at the Tallinn Bus Station
driving permit and a valid
Green Card insurance policy. Directory boxes give contact
late to check visa requirements English. Free brochures listing introduced the euro, and the DIRECTORY
before travelling. The official
website of the Estonian Ministry
of Foreign Affairs offers informa-
local sights and events are
available at these offices, which
also sell maps and guidebooks.
former currency, the kroon,
was withdrawn. Documentation Emergency
Numbers
Lennart Meri Tallinn Tallink
∑ tallink.ee
information for the services and
∑ vm.ee Airport
tion on visa regulations. EU
citizens are not subject to customs
regulations, provided they
Estonia’s official tourism website
has a list of all the tourist
information offices in the country.
Communications
Estonia’s communications
∑ ec.europa.eu
Visitor
Ambulance
Tel 112.
Tel 605 8888.
∑ tallinn-airport.ee
Viking Line
∑ vikingline.fi venues mentioned in the text.
infrastructure is very efficient. Information Fire Lufthansa Rail Travel
All phone lines are digital, Tel 112.
The Climate of Estonia ∑ visitestonia.com ∑ lufthansa.com Balti Jaam
TALLINN ensuring high-quality connec- Police
tions. Mobile phone usage is Toompuiestee 37, Tallinn.
From May to September Embassies Tel 112. SAS
20/75 particularly high. The post offices Tel 3721 447.
there is little risk of cold ∑ flysas.com
° C/F Canada ∑ baltijaam.ee
weather, but winters are offer a range of express delivery Arriving by Air
12/63 Toomkooli 13, Tallinn. Tel
freezing, with temperatures 10/61 options. Free Wi-Fi is available
7/61 627 3311. ∑ canada.ee airBaltic Arriving by Sea Arriving by Coach
dipping to -12° C (10° F). 4/48 4/39 in most places.
0/46 United Kingdom ∑ airbaltic.com
Rain comes in brief, sharp 0°C
32°F -10/14 Eckerö Line Ecolines
outburst throughout the year. Wismari 6, Tallinn. Tel 667 easyjet ∑ ecolines.ee
Days are short in December 10
Arriving by Air 4700. ∑ ukinestonia. ∑ easyjet.com
∑ eckeroline.fi
31
hrs
68
2 hrs 1 hrs
68 39
The sleek-looking Lennart Meri
Tallinn Airport is the main
Estonian airport with regular
fco.gov.uk
United States
Estonian Air
∑ estonian-air.ee
Passenger Port
Sadama 25, Tallinn.
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.ee
St Petersburg Vienna
Tallinn
R U SSI A N
E S T ONIA FE D E R AT I ON •
Take a stroll around the
streets of Old Vienna.
Rīga
L AT V IA •
Watch the elegant horses of
Baltic the Spanish Riding School.
Sea L IT HUANIA
RUS.
FED
•
Enjoy the panorama from
Vienna’s famous Ferris wheel.
BELARU S
POLAND
0 kilometres 500
Prague
0 miles 500 Morning
CZECH
Krakow Start at the landmark
RE P UBLIC Stephansdom (p386) cathedral
UKRAIN E
SLOVAKIA then wander around the
Vienna
Budapest pedestrianized streets of Old
AUSTRIA M OLD OVA
HUNGARY Vienna. Take a stroll along
S LO VENIA
ROMAN I A
Kärntnerstrasse, the city’s main
CROATIA shopping street, and check for
Belgrade
BO S NIA AND Bucharest tickets for a performance at the
Adriatic HERZEGOV I NA
SERBIA
Sea Spanish Riding School (p384),
MONT E - Black held most days at 11am. Finish
NE GR O BULGA R I A Sea
Dubrovnik K OS OV O
AL B ANI A
the morning at The Hofburg
M AC E DONIA TURKEY Complex (pp382–4), the imperial
GREECE
palace of the Habsburgs. Opt
for a tour of the opulent State
Kinský Palace (p242) features Apartments, before stopping for
Prague ancient art in the shadow of the lunch in one of the many typical
spire-topped Church of Our Lady Viennese cafés nearby.
•
Tour Prague Castle, Before Týn (p246). Head north
a Gothic gem. into Josefov, Prague’s former
•
Watch the Town Hall Clock Jewish quarter, and take an
evocative stroll through the
strike the hour on Old
Old Jewish Cemetery (p250).
Town Square.
•
Cross the statue-studded Afternoon
Charles Bridge. Cross Charles Bridge (pp240–41),
lined with statues of saints, to the
Malá Strana quarter. Make your
Morning way up Nerudova Ulice (p236)
Begin the day by admiring the to Hradčany Hill, taking a tour of
medieval and Baroque buildings the Gothic architectural wonder
lining the Old Town Square (p244). St Vitus’s Cathedral (pp232–3)
Be at Town Hall Clock (p245) on and the Old Royal Palace (p230).
the hour, when its chimes are Be sure to visit the quaint Golden
accompanied by a parade of Lane (p231), or Zlatá Ulička. Spectacular interiors of the
mechanical figures. The pretty Spend the evening in Malá Strana. Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna
Outdoor cafés line a street in downtown Braşov, Romania
DISCOVERING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE 11
Afternoon
Walk a city block from the Hofburg
Dubrovnik
to the MuseumsQuartier Wein
(p385), a superb cultural •
Walk the full circuit of
complex that contains the Dubrovnik’s perfectly
Leopold Museum, home to an preserved medieval walls.
unmissable collection of Klimts •
Stroll down Stradun, the
and Schieles, Next door is the
pedestrianized main street.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
(p385), boasting hall after hall of •
Ascend by cable car to
old masters. Finally, ride Vienna’s Mt Srđ to enjoy a stunning
swift and efficient metro to take panorama of the city.
some fresh early-evening air in
Prater park, and take a spin on
the famous giant Ferris wheel. Morning
Start with a tour of the city walls
(p434), a popular destination The imposing Kalemegdan Fortress
Krakow that can get crowded later in in Belgrade
the day. Follow this with a stroll
•
Admire the Gothic spires, along the Stradun (p435), the
murals and altars of Old Town’s main street and the
Belgrade
St Mary’s Church. site of many of its cafés. At the
•
Gaze upon the graves of eastern end of Stradun, St •
Retrace Belgrade’s turbulent
Poland’s medieval kings Blaise’s Church (p438) honours history from the ramparts
at Wawel Cathedral. the city’s patron saint. Visit the of Kalemegdan Fortress.
nearby Dominican Monastery Admire the Ottoman-
•
Soak up Krakow’s •
•
Tour the shops and cafés up the belfry of St Peter’s Church Town Hall Square, one of
of Strada Lipscani in the (p84) for a birds-eye view of the Europe’s best-preserved
historical centre. medieval marketplaces.
•
Admire Gothic art in the
medieval Niguliste Church.
Morning
Begin the day at Piaţa Revoluţiei, •
Enjoy lakes, meadows and
the set-piece square where tree-shaded avenues in the
crowds famously heckled the grounds of Kadriorg Palace.
communist dictator, Nicolae
Ceauşescu in December 1989.
Head down Calea Victoriei, Morning
Bucharest’s main shopping The obvious place to start
street to the National History exploring Tallinn’s charming
Museum (p550), rich in ancient Old Town is Town Hall Square
and medieval treasures. (pp104–5), a delightful cobbled
Cross the Dimboviţa river and space surrounded by medieval
reach the colossal Palace of merchants’ houses. Climb the
Parliament (pp548–9), the Relaxing in the Town Hall Square in the Town Hall Tower (p106) to
famously megalomaniac project Old Town, Rīga enjoy sweeping views of the
begun by Ceauşescu. Next,
visit the National Museum
of Contemporary Art (p548)
in the palace’s northern wing.
Afternoon
Cross the river again and dive
into Bucharest’s historical centre,
explore Strada Lipscani, a pedes-
trianized warren of streets dating
back to medieval times and today
filled with fashionable shops. The
richly ornamented Old Court
Church (p550), and mural-filled
Stavropoleos Church (p550) are
surviving monuments. Spend
the evening in Strada Lipscani. Colourful buildings line the Town Hall Square in Tallinn
DISCOVERING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE 13
Afternoon
Descend from Toompea for a
spot of lunch in one of the Old
Town’s many restaurants before The magnificent golden dome of St Issac’s Cathedral visible from the Moyka river
heading northeast along Pikk,
one of the Old Town’s most National Gallery (p328)
representative streets. Peek inside contains a stunning collection
St Petersburg
the Holy Spirit Church (p106) of artworks from medieval
before admiring the Renaissance times to modern. •
Admire the opulent interiors
portals of the House of the and art collections of the
Blackheads (p107). Exit the Afternoon Hermitage Museum.
Old Town at Fat Margaret Descend from Buda and cross •
Get your photograph
Tower (p108), and take a tram to the Pest side of the river via taken next to the Bronze
to Kadriorg Palace (p109) and the Chain Bridge. Walk along
Horseman, famous statue
its extensive park. Consider a the Danube riverbank to café-
of Peter the Great.
visit to Kadriorg’s Kumu Art filled Vigadó Square (p339)
Museum (p109), a spectacularly before taking a leisurely stroll •
Take a boat ride across the
modern building showcasing along Váci Utca (p339), central River Neva to the Peter and
the best of Estonian art. Pest’s most famous shopping Paul Fortress.
and promenading street. Walk
along Múzeum Körút to get
Budapest a flavour of 19th-century Morning
Pest, visiting the Hungarian Head to Palace Square (p147),
•
Explore the romantic National Museum (p340) a huge space surrounded by
backstreets of old Buda. for a thorough run-down Baroque and Rococo facades.
•
Survey the century- of Hungarian culture. Finish Next, visit The Winter Palace
spanning art collections up at the Art Nouveau-styled (pp154–5), home to The
of the Hungarian Museum of Applied Arts Hermitage (pp148–9) – with its
(p340) before exploring the stunning state rooms and an art
National Gallery.
restaurants of Ráday utca. collection ranging from Leonardo
•
Window-shop your da Vinci to Matisse. Walk along
way along Váci utca, the Neva riverbank past the
Budapest’s most animated Admiralty (p146) building to
downtown area. reach the Bronze Horseman
(p146), the landmark equestrian
statue of Peter the Great.
Morning
Take the Sikló funicular to Afternoon
the hilltop settlement of Buda, Follow Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa
packed with historic buildings (p147) then the banks of the
and evocative Baroque-era streets. Moyka river to reach the Pushkin
Admire the richly decorated House Museum (p157), filled
interior of the Mátyás Church with the poet’s personal effects.
(pp330–31) before checking Next, take a ferry across the River
out the sweeping views of Pest Neva to the Peter and Paul
from the nearby bastions. From Fortress (pp144–5). You’ll need
here it’s a short stroll to the the rest of the afternoon to
former Royal Palace (pp326–7) explore this walled naval fort with
with its ornamental gateways, its glittering Baroque cathedral,
courtyards and gardens. Inside The striking Gothic exterior of the Mátyás well-preserved ramparts and
the palace, the Hungarian Church in Budapest, Hungary numerous museum collections.
14 VISITING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE
Gävle
Torsby
Gdynia
Koszalin
Gdańsk
Hamburg
NETHERLANDS
Szczecin
Oldenburg
Amsterdam Bydgoszcz
Toruń
Braunschweig
Dortmund Berlin Włocławek
Antwerpen
Brussels Poznań
BELGIUM Köln
Zielona Góra Kalisz Łódź
G E R MA N Y
Leipzig
POLAND
Frankfurt Legnica Wrocław
LUX.
Mainz Karlovy Vary Opole
Luxembourg
Prague
Paris Plzeň
Metz Krakow
Karlsruhe CZECH Ostrava
Strasbourg
Nürnberg REPUBLIC Olomouc
Turku
St Petersburg Vologda
Helsinki Cherepovets
Chagoda
Tallinn
Hiiumaa
Island ESTONIA Veliky
La k e Novgorod Yaroslavl
Peipsi
Saaremaa
Island
Pärnu
Tartu RUSSIAN
FEDERATION
G u lf o f
Ventspils R īg a
Tver
Rīga LATVIA
Liepāja Jūrmala Rzhev
Velikiye Luki Moscow
Šiauliai Daugavpils
Vyazma
Klaipėda LITHUANIA Vitebsk
Smolensk
RUSSIAN Kaunas
Vilnius
FEDERATION Europe
N O R WAY F I N LA N D
Chernivtsi UKRAINE
Miskolc
Satu Mare MOLDOVA Melitopol’
Debrecen Mykolaiv
Ploiești Key
Belgrade
Piteşti
Motorway
Bucharest Constanţa
SERBIA Craiova Major road
D a nub Ruse
e International border
Dobrich
Niš Pleven 0 kilometres 250
BULGARIA Veliko Varna
0 miles 250
Tûrnovo
Sofia Black
KOSOVO Burgas
Stara Zagora
Sea
Plovdiv TURKEY
MACEDONIA GREECE Istanbul
16 VISITING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The countries in Eastern and Central Europe throughout the region. Accommodation
have undergone a great transformation and public transport are well organized
since the collapse of Communism in 1990. and reliable in North Eastern Europe. In the
Some states have adapted quickly to the southeast, on the other hand, travel may
change and are now active members of be slower and standards less predictable.
the European Union (EU), while others However, with an impressive diversity of
continue to wrestle with serious economic history, culture and folklore to discover,
and political problems. As a result, the Eastern and Central Europe makes for a
quality of tourist facilities varies greatly rich and enjoyable travel experience.
from an ISIC issuing office or from Personal Security adapted for wheelchair users,
branches of STA travel (see p21). Although Eastern and Central while elsewhere much of this
For US students, this card also Europe is a relatively safe region work still remains to be done. In
includes some medical cover. in which to travel, visitors should general terms, the cities of South
always take certain precautions. Eastern Europe lag behind those
Pickpocketing and petty theft of Central and North Eastern
Customs and Duty-Free are by far the biggest threats to Europe in serving disabled
Duty-free allowances are not visitors, although these are more travellers. Not all destinations
available to visitors travelling common in some countries than provide adapted accommodation
from one EU country to another. in others – specific information for those with special needs;
However, duty-free goods can is given in the practical and travel wheelchair users should plan
be purchased on entry or exit information section of each their itinerary carefully and
from the EU as a whole. The country chapter. much in advance.
allowances are as follows: tobacco The safest way of carrying
(200 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 250 money is in the form of traveller’s
g/ 9 oz of loose tobacco); alcohol cheques. Visitors should have Recommended Hotels
(1 litre/2 pints of strong spirits, their belongings adequately and Restaurants
2 litres/4 pints of alcohol under insured before leaving home The hotel and restaurant options
22 per cent proof, and 2 litres/4 and not leave them unattended. in this guide have been selected
pints of wine); coffee (500 g/18 In the event of a robbery, it across a wide range of prices and
oz) and perfume (60 ml/0.1 pint). should be reported immediately locations. The hotel listings have
When returning to their home to the local police and a copy of been chosen for their excellent
country, visitors may be asked the report acquired. Visitors are facilities and good value, and vary
to declare any items purchased advised to keep their valuables from luxury retreats to boutique
abroad and pay duty on any well concealed, especially in hotels, humble B&Bs and historic
amount that exceeds their home crowded areas or on public lodgings. Similarly the selected
country’s allowance; the scope transport. If driving, it is safer restaurants adhere to a criterion
of these allowances will vary to leave the car in a car park of great food and atmosphere.
from one country to another. rather than on the street. These include restaurants
specialising in regional cuisine.
For the best of each country, look
Value Added Tax Insurance and out for entries designated as DK
In both EU member-states Medical Treatment Choices. Each of these has one or
and most other countries in Travel insurance is essential more exceptional features, such
Eastern and Central Europe, all to cover any loss or damage to as stunning location, a compelling
goods and services (except possessions and for unexpected history or a special ambience.
certain items such as food medical and dental treatment.
and children’s clothing) are Many major credit cards offer
subject to Value Added Tax some insurance if travellers Conversion Chart
(VAT), which is included in purchase their flight tickets or The metric system is used
most prices. Visitors may claim holiday package through them, throughout Eastern and
a refund on this tax if they so it is advisable to check before Central Europe.
are neither citizens of the EU buying a separate policy. If
nor of the particular country possible, it is better to buy a Imperial to Metric
they are visiting, but it can policy that pays for medical 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
be a lengthy process. treatment on the spot, rather 1 foot = 30 centimetres
The easiest way to do this is than one that reimburses later. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
to shop at places displaying the Most general insurance policies 1 ounce = 28 grams
“Euro Free Tax” sign, although do not cover potentially hazardous 1 pound = 454 grams
the stores that offer this service outdoor activities such as 1 US pint = 0.47 litre
may be expensive or sell only climbing, skiing and scuba diving, 1 UK pint = 0.55 litre
luxury goods. Visitors need to although these can be included 1 US gallon = 3.8 litres
show their passport to the shop at an extra cost. 1 UK gallon = 4.6 litres
assistant and complete a form,
after which VAT will be deducted Metric to Imperial
from the bill. In certain countries, Facilities for the Disabled
1 millimetre = 0.04 inch
visitors need to keep their Conditions for disabled travellers 1 centimetre = 0.4 inch
receipts and VAT forms and are improving rapidly throughout 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
present them at a tax refund desk Eastern and Central Europe, how- 1 kilometre = 0.6 mile
with their unopened purchases ever facilities can vary drastically 1 gram = 0.035 ounce
when they leave the country. from one country to the next. In 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
These forms will be processed some cities, pavements, tourist 1 litre = 2.1 US pints
and a refund is eventually sent attractions such as museums 1 litre = 1.76 UK pints
to their home address. and public transport have been
18 VISITING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE
The Euro other countries in the region it is always better to carry local
The euro (the common are planning to adopt the euro currency in case it is not. The price
European Union currency) has so in the future, although this may of accommodation and transport
far been adopted by five of the take several years. is frequently quoted in euros in
countries in this guide: Austria, In countries outside the euro order to make it easier for visitors
Estonia, Slovenia, Slovakia and, zone, the euro is sometimes to calculate their expenditure, but
despite not yet being an EU accepted by hotels, restaurants actual payment is usually made in
member, Montenegro. Several and shops in big resorts, but the local currency.
Bank Notes
Euro banknotes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes feature the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Several North American considering, as they offer airports are included in the
travel companies, including flexibility and save the effort of FlightPass scheme, but it is still
Adventures Abroad, Gate 1 arranging for the two separately. a useful way of getting around
and Tradesco, offer week-long the vast European continent.
or 21-day holidays to the region,
either focusing on one country Internet Booking
or combining several in a The Internet has become a Flights Within Eastern
busy itinerary. popular way of booking tickets. and Central Europe
Similar packages are offered Many scheduled and budget Travelling from one end of
by Abercrombie & Kent, which airlines now offer their cheapest the region to the other can
specializes in upmarket accom- rates on the Internet, and these be time consuming for those
modation and is therefore fares frequently undercut who attempt to do it by road
slightly more expensive than anything offered by the or rail. Fortunately, there is an
the other operators. Those who high-street travel agencies. extensive network of flights
specialize in Eastern and Central As well as checking individual between the major capitals.
European destinations and airline websites, travellers National carriers such as CSA
provide the services of local should also browse the Czech Airlines and LOT Polish
guides include Regent Holidays websites of Internet-based Airlines offer the biggest
in the UK, and Gateway Travel travel agents such as Opodo, choice of regional flights, with
and Contal Travel in Australia. Expedia and Travelocity. They Prague, Budapest and Warsaw
Travellers who want to are particularly useful for finding serving as the main hubs for
experience the great outdoors out the best deals on one-stop their respective networks.
should consider adventure- or two-stop flights to Eastern Several budget airlines also
holiday companies such as and Central Europe, which may operate regional flights,
Exodus and Explore, which involve more than one airline. especially in the summer,
offer hiking and activity holidays These agents also offer book- when travellers from North
with itineraries to suit all levels ings in select hotels, allowing Eastern Europe head for the
of fitness. visitors to sort out their flights Mediterranean and Black
and accommodation in one go. Sea beaches. The Latvian
The US company Europebyair company AirBaltic has services
Fly-Drive offers a FlightPass for non- linking the capitals of North
Many airlines and travel European citizens, operating Eastern Europe. In addition,
companies offer fly-drive one-way flights between the budget airline Wizzair
packages, which combine selected European cities for offers summer flights from
flights and car rental. These a reasonable price. Only a Poland and Hungary to the
deals are often worth handful of East European Bulgarian coast.
DIRECTORY
Flying to Eastern Qantas Contal Travel Tradesco
and Central ∑ qantas.com.au Tel 02 9212 5077 (Aus). Tel 800 448 4321 (US).
Europe Ryanair ∑ contaltours.com.au ∑ tradescotours.com
Aeroflot ∑ ryanair.com
Exodus Internet Booking
∑ aeroflot.ru Wizzair Tel 020 8675 5550 (UK).
∑ wizzair.com ∑ exodus.co.uk
Europebyair
Air Canada ∑ europebyair.com
∑ aircanada.com
Budget Travel Explore
Expedia
American Agencies Tel 0845 013 1537 (UK). ∑ expedia.com
∑ aa.com ∑ exploreworld wide.
STA Travel Opodo
Austrian Airlines ∑ statravel.com
com
∑ opodo.com
∑ austrian.com
Trailfinders Gate 1
Travelocity
Continental ∑ trailfinders.com Tel 800 682 3333 (US).
∑ travelocity.com
∑ continental.com ∑ gate1travel.com
CSA Czech Airlines
Package Deals Flying Within
Gateway Travel
∑ czechairlines.com Abercrombie & Kent Tel 02 9745 3333 (Aus).
Eastern and
Tel 800 554 7016 (US). Central Europe
Delta ∑ russian-gateway.
∑ delta.com ∑ abercrombie kent.com
com.au AirBaltic
Adventures Abroad ∑ airbaltic.com
easyJet Regent Holidays
Tel 800 665 3998 (US),
∑ easyjet.com Tel 0845 277 3317 (UK).
0114 247 3400 (UK).
LOT Polish Airlines ∑ adventures-abroad. ∑ regent-holidays.
∑ lot.com com co.uk
22 VISITING EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE
Europe, including most of the available everywhere in most catch a ferry from Italy to Croatia.
countries covered in this guide; destinations. Driving at night Jadrolinija and SNAV are the
Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and can be dangerous in rural areas, two biggest operators. Most
Russia are the exceptions. where roads might be narrow ferries depart from the Italian
The pass comes in two and winding. port of Ancona, although there
versions – one for adults, and a are services from Bari as well.
less expensive one for travellers
under the age of 26. It covers Car Rental
DIRECTORY
periods ranging from five days to Car rental is a competitive
one month. It is not valid for the business in the region, so prices Information and
country in which it is purchased, are generally affordable. The Timetables
where full-price individual rail biggest car rental companies German Railways
tickets must be bought. are Avis, Budget, Europcar, (Deutsche Bahn)
Hertz and Sixt, all of which ∑ bahn.de
offer excellent services.
Driving Permits The Man in Seat 61
∑ seat61.com
Visitors planning to drive in
Eastern and Central Europe Travelling by Bus Thomas Cook
are advised to acquire an Domestic bus services offer an ∑ thomascookpublishing.
International Driving Permit alternative to trains throughout com
(IDP) before they travel. Eastern and Central Europe, and
The IDP is not compulsory provide the only means of Rail Passes for
everywhere in the region, but getting to those places that are Non-Europeans
regulations differ from one not served by the rail network. Eurail
country to the next, and Buses running between major ∑ eurail.com
many of the region’s car-hire cities are often fast and comfort-
companies require an IDP in able, and may also have air Railpass
Tel 1 877 724 5727 (US).
addition to a national driving conditioning. However, rural
∑ railpass.com
permit issued in the visitor’s services frequently make
home country. The IDP is valid use of slow, ageing vehicles. Rail Passes for
for one year and can be Most towns and cities have Europeans
obtained from the national a central bus station where
motoring organization in a visitors can check information Rail Europe
traveller’s home country. and purchase tickets. Advance Tel 08448 485 848 (UK).
reser vations are advisable when ∑ raileurope.co.uk
travelling on major intercity
Driving in Eastern and routes at weekends or during
Car Rental
Central Europe the summer holiday period. Avis
In Eastern and Central Europe, There is a wide network of ∑ avis.com
people drive on the right-hand international buses, especially
Budget
side of the road and overtaking in the Baltic States and in
∑ budget.com
is from the left. Visitors should South Eastern Europe, where
note that they are not allowed international trains are slow or Europcar
to overtake more than one infrequent. International bus ∑ europcar.com
car at a time. Distances are services are run by several Hertz
measured in kilometres. Speed local companies, but the ∑ hertz.com
limits are usually 120–130 kmph international operator Eurolines
Sixt
(75–80 mph) on motorways, runs an extensive network of
∑ sixt.com
80–100 kmph (50–60 mph) on routes across the continent.
secondary roads, and 50 kmph Travelling by Bus
(30 mph) in built-up areas,
although there are differences Travelling by Ferry Eurolines
from one country to the next. Ferries constitute a lifeline in Tel 0871 781 8178 (UK).
Some countries charge toll countries such as Estonia and ∑ eurolines.co.uk
fees on particular motorways, Croatia, where they provide
while others such as Austria and the only access to many of Travelling by Ferry
Slovenia charge a one-time fee the offshore islands. A ride Jadrolinija
which must be paid on entering on the ferry which runs along Tel 385 51 666 111 (Cro).
the country. Elsewhere, the vast the Croatian coast from Rijeka ∑ jadrolinija.hr
majority of roads are free. Petrol to Dubrovnik is one of South
SNAV
stations are common on Eastern Europe’s classic journeys. Tel 39 71 207 6116 (Ita).
motorways and main roads For visitors travelling from ∑ snav.it
but are less frequent in Western Europe, one of the
rural areas. Unleaded fuel is quickest ways to get there is to
EASTERN AND
CENTRAL
EUROPE AT A
GLANCE
Landscapes 26–27
Great Capitals 28–29
Historic Cities 30–31
Castles and Fortresses 32–33
Jewish Culture 34–35
The History of Eastern and
Central Europe 36–41
26 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Landscapes
A range of climatic and geological conditions has forged
an impressive variety of landscapes in Eastern and
Central Europe. Despite the impact of human activity,
there are many areas of wilderness that remain intact.
From the bogs of North Eastern Europe and the
wetlands of the Danube delta to striking mountain
ranges such as the Carpathians, stretching from the
Czech Republic to Romania, the region’s diverse land-
scapes offer endless opportunities for exploration. Slovakia
Running along Slovakia’s border
with Poland, the Tatra Mountains
(see pp306–7) feature towering
peaks and deep blue lakes. At
2,655 m (8,711 ft), Gerlachovský
Štít is the range’s highest point.
Bal ti c
Sea
Slovenia
Much of western Slovenia is made up of karst – dry
limestone plateau dotted with caves. Caverns at
Postojna (see pp408–9) and Škocjan (see p410) contain POLAND
a spectacular array of stalagmites and stalactites.
CZECH
REPUBLIC
S LO VA K I A
Vienna
AUSTRIA
H U N G A RY
SLOVENIA
CROATIA
BOSNIA AND
Croatia HERZEGOVINA
Croatia’s heavily indented Adriatic coast boasts SERBIA
stunning maritime scenery, with stark mountains
overlooking turquoise seas. Charming stone-built
villages and Mediterranean flora characterize the MONTENEGRO
string of islands along its length.
Montenegro
The granite massif of Mount Durmitor
offers some of the wildest landscapes in the
western Balkans. The most dramatic feature
is the Tara Gorge, hemmed in by jagged cliffs.
Detail of biblical scenes painted on a monastery church wall in Bucovina, Romania
LANDSCAPES 27
Latvia
Eastern Latvia’s Gauja National Park
(see pp90–91) is dotted with green hills,
sandstone cliffs and riverside castles.
Highlights include the wildlife reserve
at Līgatne and the Iron-Age Latvian
village at Lake Āraiši.
St Petersburg
E S T O NIA
RUSSIAN
F E D E R AT ION
L ATV I A Moscow
LIT H U A NIA
Lithuania
Running parallel to the Baltic
coast, the Curonian Spit
(see pp66–7) is a thin sliver of
land formed by wind-blown
sand. Quaint fishing villages,
such as Nida, are bordered by
striking golden dunes.
0 kilometres 250
0 miles 250
Romania
With its heavy concen-
tration of marshes, lakes
and floodplains, the
reedy Danube delta
is a paradise for flocks
of migrating birds,
while attracting a
small population of
fishermen and farmers.
R OM A NIA
Black
Sea
B U LGA R IA
Bulgaria
Some of Eastern Europe’s most
exhilarating hiking terrain is found
in the Rila Mountains, where bare grey
summits loom over shimmering glacial
lakes. At 2,925 m (9,596 ft), Mt Musala
is Eastern Europe’s highest peak.
28 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Great Capitals
Until the 20th century, Eastern and Central Europe were
characterized by powerful empires rather than indepen-
dent nation states. These royal dynasties built magnificent
cathedrals, palaces and castles to symbolize their greatness
and assert their supremacy, giving rise to some of Europe’s
most impressive capital cities. Several imperial cities,
including Vienna and Budapest, were repositories of a
fascinating mix of cultures, reflecting the rich ethnic 0 km 250
diversity of the local population. 0 miles 250
Prague
This remarkable city on the
Vltava river has long been
considered one of Europe’s
most magical capitals, boasting
cobbled medieval alleys, soaring Bal ti c
Gothic spires and lively squares. Sea
POLAND
CZECH
REPUBLIC
S LO VA K I A
Vienna
Vienna
In terms of imperial
grandeur, few cities A U STRIA
can match Vienna,
once capital of the SLOVENIA HUNGARY
Habsburg Empire and
still the epitome of CROATIA
Central European style.
BOSNIA AND
HERZEGOVINA
SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
Budapest
Straddling the Danube river,
the Hungarian capital enjoyed
something of an architectural
golden age in the 19th century,
endowing the city with an
array of fine buildings.
G R E AT C A P I TA L S 29
Vilnius
The capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which
stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea in its
15th-century heyday, Vilnius is packed with
grand architecture befitting its wide-ranging
historical heritage.
St Petersburg
E STON I A
RUSS I AN
FEDE RATI O N
Moscow
LATV IA
L I T HUA NIA
Moscow
Capital of Russia since
1480, Moscow rose
to become the nerve
centre of the Tsarist
Empire. Though displaced
by St Petersburg
from 1712–1918, this
fascinating city remained
the heartland of Russian
Orthodox culture as
R O MA NIA is evident from the
fine churches lining
its central squares.
Black
Sea
B U LGARIA
Warsaw
Elegant Neo-Classical Warsaw was almost
completely destroyed by the Germans in
1944. Painstakingly reconstructed after
World War II, today it is an enduring
symbol of Polish national survival.
30 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Historic Cities
Since time immemorial, Eastern Europe has been crossed by major
trade routes to Russia, Central Asia and the Near East. Market towns
grew rich from this commerce, and their streets and squares were
lined with fine architecture. Some trading towns, such as Krakow
in Poland, became, for a time, the seat of royal dynasties and the
centre of political power before being sidelined by history. Others,
notably the prominent Baltic ports of Rīga and Tallinn, spent
centuries on the fringes of large empires before finally emerging
as the capitals of independent states.
Krakow
The capital of Poland’s medieval
kings and the site of the biggest
market square in Europe, Krakow
is packed with buildings from the
medieval and Renaissance periods.
Bal ti c
Sea
Ljubljana
The Slovenian capital is rich in Baroque POLAND
churches and red-tiled mansions. The
tree-lined banks of the Ljubljanica river
provide the perfect setting for a stroll.
CZECH
REPUBLIC
Vienna S LO VA K I A
AUSTRIA
H U N G A RY
SLOVENIA
C R O AT I A
Sarajevo
BOSNIA AND
An important trading centre in the Ottoman Empire, HERZEGOVINA
Sarajevo has, over the centuries, been home to
Muslim, Orthodox, Catholic and Jewish communities, SERBIA
all of whom have left their striking architectural
imprint on the city.
MONTENEGRO
Dubrovnik
The Adriatic port of
Dubrovnik, in Croatia, was
an independent city-state
that thrived on trade with
the Ottoman Empire.
The Baroque Old Town,
surrounded by stout
defensive walls, has
been well preserved.
HISTORIC CITIES 31
Tallinn
The Estonian capital is one of the
best-preserved medieval cities in
Europe. Its cobbled streets are lined
with churches and guild halls built
by Baltic merchants of the past.
St Petersburg
E S TON I A
RUSSIA N
FEDE RATI O N
Moscow
L ATV IA
L I T H U AN I A
Rīga
Rīga has been a major
Baltic port since the
12th century. It still enjoys
the reputation of a city
driven by commerce
and business, while
wonderfully restored
Gothic buildings add
character to the
city centre.
R OMA NIA
0 km 250
0 miles 250
Black
Sea
B ULG AR IA
Plovdiv
Providing a useful lesson in Balkan
history, Plovdiv boasts an impressive
Roman amphitheatre and Ottoman
mosques, as well as 19th-century
mansions built by Bulgarian merchants.
32 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Bal ti c
Sea
Malbork
A religious and political centre,
Malbork Castle (see p209) was
built to serve as the capital POLAND
of the Teutonic knights,
the Germanic crusaders
who carved out an empire
in North Eastern Europe.
The castle contains an
imposing medieval church. CZECH
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
Vienna
AUSTRIA
H U N G A RY
SLOVENIA
C R O AT I A
BOSNIA AND
HERZEGOVINA
MONTENEGRO
Karlštejn
Residence of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, Karlštejn
Castle (see pp256–7) symbolizes the power and influence
enjoyed by medieval Czech rulers. Paintings in the castle’s
chapel represent a high point of Gothic art.
Tvrđa
Built by the Austrians to serve as their military
command centre in South Eastern Europe, the
fort of Tvrđa (see p476) in Osijek is a virtual city-
within-a-city. Complete with squares, mansions
and churches, it is one of the best-preserved
Baroque ensembles in the continent.
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES 33
Trakai
Romantically situated on an island in the
middle of a lake, Trakai Castle (see pp60–61) was
the one-time residence of Grand Duke Vytautas
the Great, who extended Lithuanian power as
far as the Black Sea.
St Petersburg
ESTONIA
Moscow
LAT VIA RU S S I AN
FE DERATI O N
L I T HU AN IA
Bran
The captivating hilltop
stronghold of Bran (see
pp556–7) was built in the
14th century to defend
Europe from the Turks. It
was subsequently used as
a holiday home by the
Romanian royal family.
R OM ANIA
B l ack
Sea
SERBIA
B ULGARIA Tsarevets
A fortress that also served as Bulgaria’s capital
city, Tsarevets (see pp600–601) was home to the
Bulgarian tsars from 1185 to 1393. It now plays
host to a spectacular son-et-lumiere show on
summer evenings.
Kalemegdan
Affording access to the Danube river, this
medieval fortress (see pp526–7) was used by
Serbian, Ottoman and Austrian rulers. It now
serves as Belgrade’s most popular park, offering
sweeping views from its battlements.
34 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Jewish Culture
One of the key heartlands of Jewish culture, Eastern and
Central Europe was home to two main groups of Jewish
communities. The first to arrive were the Ashkenazi, who
emigrated from the Rhine valley from the 12th century
onwards. They were followed by the Sephardic Jews, who,
after being expelled from Spain in 1492, resettled in South
Eastern Europe. Although over 90 per cent of the region’s
Jewish population perished during World War II, traces of
their heritage can still be seen in the carefully preserved A 19th-century line engraving
historic quarters of many European cities. depicting the expulsion of Jews
from Spain on the orders of King
Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.
Jewish Heritage
Eastern and Central Europe’s rich Jewish
heritage is evident in the large number of
synagogues found across the region. Dating
from the 1850s, Budapest’s Great Synagogue
(see p341) is a testament to the size and
prestige of Hungary’s Jewish community.
Built in the Moorish Revival style, the interior
features both Byzantine and Gothic elements.
Mark Rothko
Eminent Jews
(1903–70), a pioneer
Banned from taking up most of brooding, medi-
professions until the late 19th tative abstract art,
century, Jews lived largely as was born in the
traders. However, over time Latvian city of
many gained recognition in Daugavpils. He later
the fields of art and literature. moved to New York.
2500 BC Sophisticated
earthenware is produced
in the Danube valley, most 300 BC Thracian goldsmiths
notably the Vučedol Dove produce jewellery, ceremonial
(see p473) in present goblets and funeral
-day Croatia masks (see p580)
1270
Construction
of the
AD 550 Poreč’s Basilica of Euphrasius perfectly
(see pp464–5) decorated with proportioned
captivating mosaics Gothic
Old-New
850 The Rotunda of St Donat
Synagogue
in Zadar (see p458) exemplifies
(see pp248–9),
the Romanesque style
Prague
1261 Teutonic
knights build
Bishop’s Castle
(see p111)
1240 Master
Radovan carves the
Romanesque portal
of the Cathedral
AD 305 Roman Emperor Diocletian builds of St Lawrence
the palace that still forms the centrepiece 1180 Studenica Monastery (see (see p456), Trogir
of the Croatian city of Split (see pp446–9) p534) founded by Serbian
ruler Stefan Nemanja
38 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
1754 Francesco
Bartolomeo Rastrelli
begins construction of
St Petersburg’s Winter 1897 Gustav Klimt and others
Palace (see pp154–5) form the Vienna Secession in a
direct challenge to the
established art world
40 E A S T E R N A N D C E N T R A L E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Age of Imperialism
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
Art Nouveau Art Deco and Modernism
1900–10 Rihard Jakopič, Ivan Grohar and 1929 Slovene architect Jože Plečnik
Matej Šternen spearhead the Slovene redesigns the riverside quarter in
Impressionist Movement (see p405) Ljubljana (see pp402–403)
1977 Invented
by a local
mathematician, 1984 In Belgrade, work
the world’s first commences on St Sava (see 2014 Croatia joins the EU,
Rubik’s Cube p531), the world’s largest Russia annexes the Crimea.
goes on sale Orthodox church
in Budapest 2010 Polish president Lech
Kaczyński and 95 others die
in a plane crash
Kuressaare
Ba lt ic
Sea
Gulf of
Rīga
Ventspils
Rīga
Tukums
Pāvilosta
Jelgava
Liepāja
Telšiai Šiauliai
Palanga
LITHUANIA
Rundāle Palace (see pp88–9), regarded as Klaipėda (see pp46–73)
Latvia’s most impressive surviving stately home,
Raseiniai
was designed by Italian architect Francesco Šilutė
Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700–71). It features ornate
rooms decorated in the Rococo style of the Jurbarkas
second half of the 18th century. Kaunas
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Jõhvi
Rakvere
Paide
Lake
Peipsi
ESTONIA
(see pp98–121)
Tartu
Viljandi
Võru
Valga
Alūksne
Smiltene
Krāslava
Daugavpils
Panevėžys
Utena
Ukmergė
Jonava
Vilnius
Druskininkai
LITHUANIA
The largest of the three Baltic States and one of the hidden jewels of Europe,
Lithuania takes pride in its relatively undiscovered landscape of clean lakes,
ancient forests and coastal dunes. The capital Vilnius, which has a UNESCO-
protected Old Town, combines the romance of breathtaking Baroque
architecture with the modern trappings of 21st-century Europe.
Children playing in the sand dunes near Nida, Curonian Spit National Park
Yachts moored near the enchanting red-brick Trakai Island Castle, Trakai
48 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
Exploring Lithuania
With its rich history and wealth of scenic beauty, Lithuania
offers many attractions. Its capital Vilnius possesses one of
Europe’s finest Old Towns. While Vilnius and Kaunas are the
most vibrant cities, the less-visited towns and villages, with
their beautiful churches and farmsteads, and the coast, with
its fascinating sandy dunes and beaches, also draw visitors.
Trains are cheap, but not frequent, and there are few routes.
The country’s flat landscape makes it ideal for cycling.
Sights at a Glance
1 Vilnius pp50–59
2 Trakai Castle pp60–61
3 Kaunas pp62–3
View of Upper Castle across the Neris
4 Klaipėda pp64–5
river, Vilnius
5 Curonian Spit National Park
pp66–7
L ATVIA
Biržai
A10
Joniškis
Mažeikiai
A12
Panevėžys
Palanga A6
Plungė
Karlshamn,
Kiel
Utena
A1
2
Klaipėda Gargždai
A1
A14
A13
A8
Ukmergė Molėtai
Curonian Spit Šilalė Raseiniai
National Park
Šilutė A6
A2
N
A1
em
nia
14 Tauragė Jonava
un
Nida 1 Ne
Vil
as
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Vilkaviškis
A16
A15
Marijampolė
Alytus
Ne m u n a s
A4
Lazdijai Varėna
0 kilometres 50 POLAND
Druskininkai
0 miles 50
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway
International border
Vast sand dunes, Curonian Spit National Park
For keys to symbols see back flap
50 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
1 Vilnius
Whether viewed from one of the hills that overlook the
Old Town or one of the many pavement cafés with tall spires
rising all around, Vilnius is unmistakably a city of great beauty.
The city, now home to 600,000 people, sustained a series
of wars, invasions and fires between the early
17th and mid-18th centuries. Efforts
to rebuild the city resulted in the rich
offshoot of the Baroque style that is
typical of Vilnius today. The Old Town,
S
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on the UNESCO World Heritage list
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Sights at a Glance IS
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3 Ducal Palace
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St Catherine
7 St John’s Church KLA IPĖ DO
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8 Town Hall Square
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9 Church of St Casimir
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Genocide Victims
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Getting Around
Vilnius is a compact city that can easily be explored on
foot. Walking is the best way to explore the Old Town.
Cycling is another popular way of getting around the
town centre, and the tourist office in the Old Town
offers bicycles to rent. Outlying sites can be reached by
bus, but others, located further away from the city
centre, are more easily reached by car or taxi.
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Key
Bus Station Railway Station
660 m (720 yards) 550 m (600 yards)
Street-by-Street area: see pp56–7
Vilnius International Airport
6 km (4 miles)
Major sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
1 Vilnius Cathedral
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a
Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251,
Vilnius Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th
century. The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius,
brought the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque
Vilnius; his idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being
a visual re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was
closed by the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use
Valavičius Chapel
as a garage for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened Members of the Valavičius family
as a picture gallery. It was eventually were governors and bishops of
returned to the Catholic Church in Vilnius. Their lavish chapel was
built in the early 17th century.
1988 and reconsecrated in 1989, a year
before independence was declared.
Statue of
St Helena
Stucco Sculpture
This sculpture
depicting a bird
sacrifice can be seen
on the tympanum
of the façade.
Main entrance
Wall Painting of
the Crucifixion
The oldest surviving fresco
in Lithuania, dating from
the 14th century, can
be found in the crypt.
It was discovered in 1985.
High Altar
The marvellously
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
intricate tabernacle door
Practical Information
on the High Altar, which
Katedros aikštė. Map D2.
was created in the 1620s,
Tel (5) 261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
is fashioned from gold
daily. 8 mandatory to visit the
and silver. Two biblical
crypt. Enquire at the souvenir
scenes, the Last Supper
shop at the north entrance for
and Christ Washing the
timings and fees. 5 8am,
Disciples’ Feet, are
5:30pm, 6:30pm daily, also 9am,
beautifully depicted
10am, 11:15am, 12:30pm Sun. =
on the panel.
. St Casimir’s Chapel
Italian masters created this
superb chapel, one of the
major Baroque jewels of Vilnius,
from 1623 to 1636. Its main
highlights are the marble
columns, magnificent stucco
figures and colourful frescoes.
St Casimir (1458–84)
Casimir was the second son
of King Casimir IV of Poland,
whose siblings became
kings and queens of
European states through
lineage and marriage.
Pious Casimir shunned
the luxuries of court life
and would often go to
the cathedral to pray.
When he died of tuber-
culosis at the age of 25,
it was rumoured that his
coffin could cure the disease.
A fresco in St Casimir’s
. Crypt Chapel shows how a sick
A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of orphan, who prayed
two grand dukes and two wives of Sigismund beneath the coffin, was Richly decorated altar of
Augustus (r. 1548–72), Gediminas’ last miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
descendant (r. 1316–41).
54 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
The paving stones around 4 Upper Castle Arsenalo gatvė 3a. Map E2.
Tel (5) 262 8080. Open 11am–6pm
Cathedral Square show the Aukštutinė pilis Tue–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun. &
outline of the wall around
the Lower Castle, a defence that Arsenalo 5. Map E2. Tel (5) 261 7453. The 16th-century Old Arsenal
@ 10, 11, 33. Open May–Sep: 10am–
made Vilnius a 14th-century houses the Applied Arts
7pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm
bastion against the crusades. daily. &
Museum, which hosts major
At the square’s western end state-sponsored exhibitions on
is the Vilnius Cathedral Belfry, The oldest part of the Vilnius Castle topics relating mainly to the
which was originally part of complex is the Upper Castle, history of Lithuania, the Grand
the fortifications. There was also also known as Gedimino pilies Duchy and sacred art.
a western gate where Vilnius bokštas, built atop Gediminas One of the permanent
Cathedral stands today. The Hill. The western tower, the only exhibitions in the museum
square’s eastern end is dominated remaining part of this complex, displays Lithuanian folk
by a statue of the city’s founder, which once included defensive art from the 17th to the
Grand Duke Gediminas. Unveiled structures, is today the symbol 19th centuries, illustrating
in 1996, it conveys his predilec- of independent Lithuania. The the heavy impact that Christian
tion for diplomacy over force.
In the square’s centre is a tile
marked stebuklas (miracle),
reputed to be the point from
where the Baltic Way, the human
chain linking Vilnius, Rīga and
Tallinn in 1989, started. Locals
believe that turning around
on the tile three times makes
wishes come true.
3 Ducal Palace
Valdovų Rũmai
Katedros 4. Map E2. Tel (5) 212 7476.
@ 10, 11, 33. Open call in advance
for timings. 8 ∑ valdovurumai.lt
Colourful interior of Littera, with its collection of books and study material, Vilnius University
Vilnius Cathedral
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Key
Suggested route
Contemporary Art
Vokiečių Gatvė Centre, a Soviet-era
One of the city’s building, is now a venue
oldest streets, Vokiečių for groundbreaking art.
resembles a park during
the summer, with its
outdoor cafés and a
pleasant central tree-
lined walkway.
For hotels and restaurants see p72 and p73
VILNIUS 57
Šv Kazimiero Gatvė
Named after
St Casimir, this
narrow street snakes
around the back of
the church towards
Užupis, a district
filled with cafés
and art galleries.
. Church of St Theresa
Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered for her
Church of the mystical writings, adorn the vaulted nave of the
Holy Spirit church. The frescoes were painted in the late 18th
century following a fire in the 17th-century church.
0 metres 100
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M AUŠROS GAT VĖ
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Basilian Gate
0 . Gates of Dawn
Basilian Monastery A pilgrimage site, this gateway to the
The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a Old Town protects a silver-covered
prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet painting of the Virgin Mary, said to
Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. have miraculous powers.
58 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
0 Gates of Dawn
Aušros Vartai
Aušros vartų 12. Map D5.
Tel (5) 212 3513. 5 9am, 6:30pm
Mon–Fri. Chapel: 6am–9pm.
The Classical chapel of Gates
of Dawn follows the centuries-
old custom of having a chapel
or a religious image in every
gateway to safeguard a city
from outside enemies and
protect departing travellers.
This is the only gateway from
Vilnius’ original defensive
walls to have survived a series
of attacks.
Nave and altar in the Church of St Casimir The focus of this chapel is
The Madonna of Mercy, an image
8 Town Hall Square was destroyed in 1812, reputed to have miracle-working
Rotušės Aikštė when Napoleon’s Army used powers. It was painted on oak in
the church as a granary. It the 1620s and encased in silver 150
Didžioji 31. Map D4. Town Hall: became a Russian Orthodox years later. The miracles attributed
Tel (5) 261 8007. n (5) 262 6470.
church during the 19th cen- to it were faithfully recorded
Open 9am–6pm daily. _ Kaziuko
Crafts Fair (Mar). ∑ vilnius.lt
tury, when onion domes by nuns at the neighbouring
were added to it. Carmelite convent. Hundreds
Fully repaved in 2006, Town It served as a Lutheran church of hearts of different sizes stand
Hall Square was for centuries for the German Army during World out on plates of silver around
a marketplace and the centre War I, and was then returned the painting.
of public life. It still bustles to the Jesuits and restored in The image was originally
with activity, especially the 1920s. The central dome placed on the gate, in a recess,
during the annual Kaziuko was rebuilt in 1942 and a crown with shutters to protect it from
Crafts Fair, a festival of traditional was added. The Soviets used the the elements, but was shifted to
arts and crafts marking St church as a museum of atheism a wooden chapel in the 17th
Casimir’s Day, when stalls line from 1963. It was reconsecrated century. The chapel that houses
the square. The main building in 1991 after heavy renovation. the image today dates from
of the square, the Town Hall,
was earlier the site of a court;
prisoners were marched from
its cells to the square to be
beheaded. The building was
constructed at the end of the
18th century. Today, the Town
Hall hosts cultural and social
events through the year.
9 Church of
St Casimir
Šv Kazimiero Bažnyčia
Didžioji 34. Map D4. Tel (5) 212
1715. 5 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am
& noon Sun.
The first Baroque church of the
city, St Casimir was destroyed
by fire three times after being
built by the Jesuits between
1604 and 1635, prompting
extensive reconstruction led by
the architect, mathematician
and astronomer Tomas
Žebrauskas (1714–58) in the
1750s. Much of the interior The Madonna of Mercy, seen through the window of the Gates of Dawn
For hotels and restaurants see p72 and p73
VILNIUS 59
wHolocaust
Museum
Holokausto Ekspozicija
Pamėnkalnio 12. Map B2 and C2.
Tel (5) 261 6253. Open 9am–5pm
Mon–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm
Sun. & 8 ∑ jmuseum.lt
Also known as the Green
House, this department of the
State Jewish Museum reveals
some of the horrors that befell
the Jews of Lithuania during
World War II. A display on
Jewish life before the terror
unfolded is followed by maps
and photographs of how and
where the Holocaust was
executed. There are also des- Holocaust Museum, annexe of the State
criptions of the harsh life Jewish Museum
Stained-glass window at the State in the ghettos and eyewitness
Jewish Museum accounts of the mass killings deportations to Siberia and
of 100,000 people in the forests the futile efforts of the Forest
1829, when it was rebuilt to of Paneriai, outside Vilnius. Brothers, who fought a guerrilla-
replace an earlier Baroque style campaign against the Soviet
version. A site of pilgrimage, regime with strong support from
it was one of the first stops e The Museum of the locals. Underground, the cells
made by Pope John Paul II Genocide Victims that were in use right up until the
when he visited Lithuania Genocido Aukų Muziejus late 1980s are even more over-
in 1993. whelming. They include the
Aukų 2a. Map B2. Tel (5) 249 8156.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sat,
smaller cells used in winter with
10am–5pm Sun. & 8 = no glass in their windows and
qState Jewish ∑ genocid.lt the floors covered with water, as
Museum well as an execution chamber
Valstybinis Vilniaus Gaono Also known as the KGB Museum, displaying, under glass, the
Žydų Muziejus the Museum of Genocide Victims recently exhumed remains
was opened in 1992, on the first of victims of the era.
Naugarduko 10/2. Map C3. Tel (5) 231
floor of the former KGB building. In 1997, the museum was
2357. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, till
3:30pm Fri. & 8 excursions of the
In the effectively designed display taken over by the Genocide
museum & Vilnius Old Town offered. area, personal stories are used to and Resistance Research Centre
∑ jmuseum.lt reveal the regime of terror under of Lithuania, a state institution
the Soviet occupations of 1940– dedicated to investigating
The hub of the city’s now tiny 41 and 1944–91. The exhibits atrocities that occurred in the
Jewish community, this small here chronicle Soviet repression country during the Nazi and
museum displays copies of in Lithuania, the cattle-car Soviet occupations.
ghetto diaries and handwritten
notes on the backs of cigarette
packets about life in the ghetto,
as well as items that remained
from the museum that existed
before World War II. Several
objects that miraculously survived
from the Great Synagogue,
demolished by the Soviets,
include a Ten Commandments
bas-relief.
The building plays host to a
newspaper in Lithuanian, English,
Yiddish and Russian, Jerusalem of
Lithuania. It is also the venue where
groups, such as the Union of
Former Ghetto and Concentration
Camp Prisoners and the Union
of Jewish War Veterans, meet. Exhibition of Lithuanian partisans at the Museum of Genocide Victims
60 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
2 Trakai Castle
Trakų pilis
Located on one of the 21 islands in Lake Galvė in the
peninsula town of Trakai, the castle was built as a seat of
power during the reign of Vytautas the Great in the 13th
century. Building was completed just before the Grand
Duchy’s crushing victory over the Teutonic knights at the
Battle of Grünwald. As Vilnius grew in importance, Trakai
lost its significance and was destroyed by the Cossacks
during the 1655 Russian invasion. In the late 19th century,
the elegiac island ruins captured the imagination of poets Dry moat, separating the main castle from
and painters during the National Revival. Oddly, it was the outer courtyard
the Soviet authorities who, in the 1950s, sanctioned the
reconstruction of this monument to Lithuania’s glorious
past. It was completed in 1987.
. Lakeside Walk
One way to appreciate
Trakai’s idyllic lake-filled
landscape and the scale
of the castle’s construction
is to take the pretty walk
that follows the shore of
the island.
Yachts
Between May and
October, yachts from
the nearby Žalgiris
Yacht Club are moored
next to the castle.
The boats can be
hired by the hour,
but charges vary.
For hotels and restaurants see p72 and p73
LITHUANIA 61
Lake Galvė
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This lake serves as
a moat around the
Practical Information
castle. Rowing boats
30 km (19 miles) W of Vilnius.
and paddle boats
n Vytauto gatvė 69, (528) 51 934.
can be hired along
Žalgiris Yacht Club: Žemaitės
the quayside on the
gatvė 3. Tel (528) 52 824. History
Lithuanian mainland
Museum: Kęstučio gatvė 4. Tel (528)
for a spectacular view
53 946. Open May–Sep: 10am–
of the castle.
7pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun (to 6pm Mar, Apr & Oct).
& ∑ trakaimuziejus.lt
Transport
@ from Vilnius. £ from Vilnius.
KEY
. History Museum
This museum showcases a wide array of
weaponry as well as items found during
excavations, including 16th-century
tankards, tiles and coins.
AR
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Kaunas
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Park St George
Cathedral St Gertrude’s
Church of the Church
of Sts Peter
Holy Trinity
and Paul GR U O D ŽIO
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Old
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NK
OD
O
House Ž IU
EKS
J N
ZAM
LINI
AL
GA
SAMA
Vytautas TV
Ė
Church
Ne mu nas KARALIAUS
0 metres 500
GA S Church of the
E
S A
AU
M
VI S
IČ
E Devil’s
A CK RO Open Oct–May: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun;
P
IU
M Museum
A
V PUTVINSKIO Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
G
G AT V Ė
İŲ
A
OR &8-=
M K Čiurlionis V
T
Ė
V AN Art Museum
SA
Ė S
K DON ELA I ČIO
This museum’s (Velnių muziejus)
I EN GAT VĖ
E SK Philharmonic collection of representations
EŠ Hall
OŽ
G AT V Ė
G AT V Ė
Garden NEPRIKLAUSOMYBĖS
IAUS
Music
Theatre by avid collector Antanas
KĘSTUČIO G
MICKEVIČ
AT V Ė
Žmuidzinavičius. A sculpture
TV TO
Mykolas Žilinskas
Ė
G AA N
Art Gallery
of Hitler and Stalin fighting
I K
Railway Station
800 m (885 yards) is grim, but most of the devils
are shown with humour.
For keys to symbols see back flap
64 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
E Blacksmiths’ Museum
Šaltkalvių 2a. Tel (46) 410 526.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. & 8
Black metal crosses, fences
and cemetery gates are exhib-
ited in a garden beside an
old working smithy originally
owned by Gustav Katzke, a
metalwork artist of the early
20th century. Some of the
crosses were rescued from
Cafés lining a pedestrian street in the Old Town destruction when the Sculpture
Park replaced the city’s main
Ännchen of Tharau behind its original location. In cemetery in the 1970s.
Taravos anikė. 1989, a replica of the original Lithuania’s cross-crafting
In front of the theatre in the statue was placed in the tradition, in metal and in
Theatre Square, which is the middle of the fountain. wood, was recognized by
heart of Klaipėda’s Old Town, UNESCO in 2001.
stands the statue Ännchen of E Castle Museum
Tharau. The statue is the focal Pilies 4. Tel (46) 313 323.
point of the fountain dedicated Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat.
to Simon Dach (1605–59), one &
of the city’s eminent personali- Housed in a 17th-century castle,
ties. Born in Klaipėda, then this museum (Pilies muziejus)
known as Memel, Dach was is one of modern Klaipėda’s most
a leading Prussian poet from recognized symbols. The castle
the late 1630s until his was built on the foundations
death. He is well known of the city’s first fortress
throughout Germany for dating back to 1252. In 2002,
his songs, hymns and an exhibition opened inside
dialect poems. The one of the ramparts, illus-
statue was inspired by trating the development
his poem Ännchen of of the fortress and the city
Tharau, written in 1637. from the 13th to the 17th
The original statue, centuries. The exhibits Old wooden clock inside the Clock Museum
created in 1912, include weapons, house-
mysteriously vanished hold articles, wooden tools E Clock Museum
on the eve of World and re-created models Liepų 12. Tel (46) 410 413.
War II to make way for of the castle and the city Open noon–5:30pm Tue–Sat,
a statue of Adolf Hitler. in the 17th century. noon–4:30pm Sun. & 8
On 23 March 1939, A Renaissance-era From sundials to atomic clocks,
Hitler made a gold ring encrusted this unique museum offers a
speech from the Ännchen of Tharau in with diamonds is fascinating insight into man’s
theatre balcony Theatre Square the highlight here. attempts to measure time. The
For hotels and restaurants see p72 and p73
LITHUANIA 65
Gallery and
IV
Airport
3 History Museum of
G
35 km (22 miles)
Ė
J K AT V
Lithuania Minor TV Ė
GA TV
G
AR Ė
GA
OS
H M
P Ų
4 Blacksmiths’ Museum VĖ IE
O
T L
GA Clock
AN
S
6 Picture Gallery and YT
A
TV
Ė NĖ
V GA DA
GA
Sculpture Park DO
SO
TV
ė
JO
J I Dan
Ė
U
NA
Ė
NA
TV
A
UJ
JI G Ė
O
UO TV
ĖS
TI
A
ST N G
LT
O A
Ų
D E JŲ
G
G
AT ŽV Ė
A
V OLD
TV
VĖ AT
TE
VE
G TOWN
Ė
AT
US
AT
RO
THEATRE A
RG
S
G
EN
AT
SQUARE
TU
ė
D
VĖ
N
an
VA
Ännchen of
D
JI
History Museum of
O
Tharau
ŽI
Lithuania Minor
ID
SUK
ŠA
D
L
G TKA
ILEL
PI
AT L
VE VIŲ
LI
Blacksmiths’
IŲ
ES
Museum O ATV Ė
P Y L I M O NI
GA
GA
0 metres
G A LI
200
T VĖ
TV
Ė
Curonian
park’s forests are rich in wildlife such as roe deer, elk, foxes Lagoon
and wild boars. The dunes that tower over the village of Nida
Key
fall like cliffs into the Curonian Lagoon. Entire villages have
Curonian Spit National Park
been buried beneath the shifting sands. The Curonian Spit
National Park, covering most of the spit, was created in 1991
to preserve the dunes, lagoons and surrounding area, and
has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000.
. Nida
The highly characteristic red-and-blue
fishermen’s cottages in Nida have remained
unchanged for centuries. Some old weather-
beaten fishing boats lie in the gardens
outside the cottages.
Baltic Beach
a
Vecekrug Dune,
. Parnidis Dune at 67 m (220 ft),
Looming 52 m (171 ft) above Nida, Parnidis Dune Nida is the highest
offers great views and is one of the highest points wooded dune and
on the spit. A sundial erected here in 1995 collapsed can be seen from
during a storm in 1999. Only a part of it has the forest trail.
been reconstructed.
For hotels and restaurants see p72 and p73
LITHUANIA 67
Dead Dunes
Res
These once-shifting
dunes are now held in
al
bounds to visitors.
Na
Naglių
Dune
Forest Trails
It is possible to walk or cycle the
entire length of the spit. The path
takes visitors past isolated stretches
of sandy beach and is lined
with rich local flora.
Pervalka
Key
Main road
Trail
Ferry route
Shifting dunes
In the 17th century, when the Curonian Spit forests were cut down
to fuel industry and constant military campaigns, the mountainous
dunes were released. Carried by
the Baltic winds, the sand started
to shift up to 20 m (66 ft) a year
0 km 2 in places, burying entire villages.
It was only in the 19th century,
0 miles 2
when a vast number of trees were
Parnidis Dune seen from the harbour planted to reforest the area, that
at Nida the moving dunes were stopped.
DIRECTORY
Documentation United Kingdom Arriving by Air Lufthansa
Antakalnio 2, Vilnius. ∑ lufthansa.com
European Commission airBaltic
∑ britain.lt RyanAir
∑ ec.europa.eu ∑ airbaltic.com
United States ∑ ryanair.com
Visitor Auracom
Akmenų 6, Vilnius. Vilnius Airport
∑ airport-bus.lt
Information ∑ usembassy.lt Raudūnios Kelias, Vilnius.
Austrian Airlines Tel (5) 273 9305.
∑ tourism.lt
Emergency ∑ vilnius-airport.lt
∑ austrian.lt
Embassies Numbers Arriving by Sea
Czech Airlines
Australia Ambulance ∑ czechairlines.com Klaipėda State
Vilnius 23. Tel 03, 112. Sea Port
Finnair
∑ portofklaipeda.lt
Tel (5) 212 3369. Fire ∑ finnair.com
Canada Tel 01, 112.
Kaunas Airport
Rail Travel
Jogailos 4, Vilnius. Police Karmėlava, Kaunas. Lietuvos Geležinkeliai
∑ canada.lt Tel 02, 112. ∑ kaunas-airport.lt ∑ litrail.lt
70 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
Theatre Klaipėda is best known for its is popular with locals and visitors
Lithuanians are passionate about jazz and blues concerts. alike. The famous National Opera
theatre. Productions by Oskaras Several outstanding Lithuanian & Ballet Theatre is often packed
Koršunovas and Eimuntas Nekrošius rock and pop performers play to capacity. Theatres in Klaipėda
are highly recommended. The regularly at atmospheric venues and Kaunas organize regular
Lithuanian National Drama such as Tamsta Club, Brodvėjus classical music concerts and
Theatre and the more avant-garde and the Forum Palace in Vilnius. opera performances.
State Small Theatre of Vilnius International artistes tend to play
provide pre-recorded English at the modern Siemens Arena
translations for some performances. or the Pramogų Arena. Music Festivals
The Klaipėda State Drama Theatre, Folk festivals are often Several music festivals have grown
which dates from 1819, is the most organized in the premises in popularity over the years. The
famous theatre outside Vilnius. of Vilnius University. magnificent Baroque Pažaislis
Monastery complex, near Kaunas,
forms the backdrop to the annual
Live Music Classical Music, Opera Pažaislis Music Festival. The
With a small but fanatical and Ballet Edvard Grieg and M K Čiurlionis
following, jazz forms an inex- Vilnius has a good classical Festival, hosted in Kaunas each
tricable part of the Lithuanian music scene. Both the National spring, features classical music
lifestyle. The Holiday Inn Vilnius Philharmonic and the Congress concerts. The Muzikinis Pajūris
hosts excellent jazz performances Palace hold superb concerts. The (Musical Seaside) festival of opera
and both Vilnius and Kaunas have innovative choreography of the and symphony takes place
brilliant jazz festivals. Kurpiai in Anželika Cholina Dance Theatre every summer in Klaipėda.
DIRECTORY
Markets Užupio Galerija Lithuanian National Tamsta Club
Užupio 3–l, Vilnius. Drama Theatre Subačiaus 11, Vilnius.
Gariūnai Gedimino 4, Vilnius. Tel (5) 212 4498.
Tel (5) 231 2318.
Vilnius–Kaunas Highway. Tel (5) 262 1593. ∑ tamstaclub.lt
Halės Market Nightlife ∑ teatras.lt
Classical Music,
Pylimo and Bazilijonų State Small Theatre Opera and Ballet
Aula
street corner, Vilnius. of Vilnius
Pilies 11, Vilnius. Anželika Cholina
Gedimino 22, Vilnius.
Traditional Crafts Tel (5) 268 7173. Dance Theatre
Tel (5) 249 9869.
Bix ∑ vmt.lt
Šimulionio 4–103, Vilnius.
Aukso Avis Tel (5) 6883 4181.
Pilies 38, Vilnius. Etmonų 6, Vilnius.
Tel (5) 262 7791. Live Music Congress Palace
Tel (5) 261 0421.
Vilnius 6–14, Vilnius.
Linen & Amber Pabo Latino Brodvėjus Tel (5) 261 8828.7.
Trakų 3, Vilnius. Vokiečių 4, Vilnius.
Studio National Opera &
Tel (5) 262 1045. Tel (8) 652 57790.
Didžioji 5, Vilnius. Ballet Theatre
Žvejų 4, Klaipėda. ∑ brodvejus.lt
Tel (5) 262 4986. Vienuolio 1, Vilnius.
∑ lgstudija.lt Tel (46) 403 040. Forum Palace Tel (5) 262 0727.
(One of several branches). Konstitucijos 26, Vilnius.
Paparazzi National
Tel (5) 263 6666.
Sauluva Totorių 1, Vilnius. Philharmonic
∑ forumpalace.lt
Literatų 3, Vilnius. Tel (5) 212 0135. Aušros Vartų 5, Vilnius.
Tel (8) 686 43906. Holiday Inn Vilnius Tel (5) 266 5216.
Siena ∑ filharmonija.lt
∑ sauluva.lt Šeimyniškių 1, Vilnius.
Laisvės 93, Kaunas. Tel (5) 210 3000.
Fine Art and Tel (37) 424 424. ∑ holidayInnvilnius.lt Music Festivals
Antiques Skliautai Kurpiai Edvard Grieg and M K
Aušros Vartų 11, Kaunas. Kurpių 1a, Klaipėda. Čiurlionis Festival
Artists’ Union
Tel (37) 411 955. Tel (46) 410 555. ∑ kaunofilharmonija.lt
Exhibition Hall
Vokiečių 4/2, Vilnius. Pramogų Arena Muzikinis Pajūris
Tel (5) 261 9516.
Theatre ∑ muzikinis-teatras.lt
Ąžuolyno 9, Vilnius.
∑ galerija-lds.lt Klaipėda State Tel (5) 242 4444. Pažaislis Music
Drama Theatre Festival
Rūtos Galerija Siemens Arena
∑ pazaislis.lt
Pranciškonų gatvė 8, Manto 45, Klaipėda. Ozo 14, Vilnius.
Vilnius. Tel (46) 314 453. Tel (5) 247 7576.
Tel (8) 685 80080. ∑ kldteatras.lt ∑ siemens-arena.lt
72 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Vilnius Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Grybų Namai
B&B Map D5 under 250 Lt
Aušros Vartų 3a, 01129 250–500 Lt
over 500 Lt
Tel (5) 261 9695
∑ grybashouse.com
Located near the Gates of Dawn, this B&B, located close to
this is a family-run B&B in a lovely the lagoon shore, is a fisherman’s
old house with vintage design cottage with a traditional
touches. Fully equipped rooms thatched roof.
with free Wi-Fi.
KAUNAS: Best Western
Litinterp Santakos
B&B Map E3 Historic
Bernardinų 7, 01124 Gruodžio 21, 44293
Tel (5) 212 3850 Visitors relax on the porch of Stikliai Tel (37) 302 702
∑ litinterp.com in Vilnius ∑ santakahotel.eu
An excellent bargain with Set in an elegant, red-brick
small but comfortable rooms Historic Old Town building building in the Old Town,
in a typical Old Town alley with contemporary touches added this hotel has plush rooms,
setting. Breakfast delivered to its original Gothic features. a good restaurant, indoor
to the door. Elegantly furnished rooms. pool and excellent service.
LATVIA
Lying between Lithuania and Estonia, Latvia is characterized by delightful
forests and lakes, fascinating historical towns and dynamic cities, which are,
by and large, under-explored. By contrast, the country’s exciting capital, Rīga,
draws hordes of Western Europeans all year round. The largest city in the Baltic
region, Rīga revels in its cultural treasures and hedonistic nightlife.
Bank of the Gauja river below Eagle Cliff, Gauja National Park
Dutch Renaissance façade of the House of Blackheads, Rīga’s Old Town
76 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
When World War I broke out in 1914, Latvia to a halt with the Soviet invasion on 17 June
became the main battleground between 1940, which saw Latvians of influence either
Germany and Russia. The Allied victory in executed or deported to Siberia. The
1918 forced the German troops to withdraw Germans invaded a year later, with brutal
and Latvia was declared an independent consequences for the Jewish community.
nation. Despite the constantly changing The Soviets returned to eastern Latvia and
governments that ruled until 1934, much Rīga as “liberators” in the autumn of 1944.
was achieved during this period of Further deportations were carried out, and
independence. However, progress came Russian numbers swelled, posing a serious
threat to Latvian culture.
KEY DATES IN LATVIAN HISTORY In 1988, new political groups began to
AD 1201 Rīga founded by Albrecht of Buxhoeveden emerge. The most forceful of these, the
1282 Rīga joins a trading confederation of German Popular Front of Latvia (PLF), demanded full
port cities and merchants’ associations independence and won the elections in
1372 German replaces Latin as official language 1990, provoking clashes with Soviet forces.
1561 Latvia occupied by Poland Moscow’s conservative Communists staged
1629 Sweden colonizes Latvia a coup against President Mikhail Gorbachev
1710 Rīga conquered by Peter the Great of Russia in August 1991, but it collapsed and Latvia
1822 First Latvian newspaper printed finally found itself free. Since then governments
1850s National Awakening Movement formed have come and gone, but the beginning of
1905 Socialist revolution demands independence the 21st century saw the effective integration
1915 German troops enter Latvia of Latvia into Western Europe, particularly
1918 Formal declaration of Latvian independence with its entry into the EU and NATO in 2004.
1920 The Soviet Union recognizes Latvia’s
independence Language and Culture
1940 First Soviet occupation of Latvia
Latvian is the official language of the people,
1941 Occupation by Nazi Germany
although a sizeable Russian-speaking
1944–91 Second Soviet occupation of Latvia
minority also exists.
1988 Pro-independence Popular Front is formed
Echoes of Latvia’s pagan past remain to
1989 Baltic Way demonstratation occured
this day, most obviously in the celebration
1991 Latvian independence re-established
of Midsummer. The Latvian calendar is
2004 Latvia joins NATO and the EU
2007 Valdis Zatlers sworn in as president
punctuated by festivities which mark the
2014 Rīga is the European capital of culture
passing of seasons; many folk rituals are
incorporated into Christian celebrations.
L AT V I A 77
Exploring Latvia
Latvia is extremely visitor friendly. At its heart lies Rīga,
the largest and most cosmopolitan city in the Baltic States.
Strategically positioned on the Gulf of Rīga, it has a long
history as a thriving mercantile centre. Beyond the capital,
western Latvia enchants with its contrasts – dense forests
and fertile plains, lively cities such as Liepāja and sleepy
rural towns. Eastern Latvia, meanwhile, boasts some of
the country’s most popular attractions, such as the Gauja
National Park. Most places of interest are connected by
regular trains and buses, although public transport is less
reliable for getting off the beaten track. Renting a vehicle
is a good way to get around the country on a short trip.
Talsi aja
A1 Gu Sigulda
Ērgli
P36
0
Baltic Jūrmala RĪGA A2
Sea Madona
A4
Sabile Ludza
Latgale
Ogre
Kuldīga Tukums 2
Da A1
Venta
Pāvilosta Zem ug
ga l e
Ku r zeme A9 Jelgava
ava A6
Rēzekne A1
2
3
A1
A8
A7
P6
2
L I T HUANI A Krāslava
A11
A6
Daugavpils
B E LA R U S
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Sights at a Glance
1 Rīga pp78–85
2 Jūrmala
3 Kuldīga
4 Liepāja
5 Rundāle Palace pp88–9
6 Sigulda
7 Gauja National Park pp90–91
The Marble Hall in Rundāle Palace 8 Cēsis
1 Rīga
For many centuries Rīga was largely contained within the city
walls on the bank of the Daugava river. Now known as the Old
Town, this area contains most of the city’s sites of interest. The
main route through the tangle of picturesque streets and
squares is Kaļķu iela, leading from the Stone Bridge (Akmens
tilts) to Brīvības bulvāris and the Freedom Monument. When the A
ĀŅ
city walls were removed in the mid-19th century, the space was I ŠJ
KR
developed into a ring of boulevards and parks. The main train
and bus stations lie on the southeastern edge of this ring. To the
north is the late 19th- and 20th-century extension of the city
known as the Centre (Centrs), which includes some of Rīga’s R
A
IŅ
most impressive Art Nouveau architecture. Today the city is A
home to about 700,000 residents.
M
Pi BASTEJKALNS
EI
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V nāls
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JĒKABA
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Ferry Port A
1 km (0.6 mile) LAUKUMS BU
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Statue of L A Church
KU
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SQUARE
11
Da
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LA
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STRĒLNIEKU Photography
IEK
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LAUKUMS Museum
B
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Rīga International
IN
Airport
M
13 km (8 miles)
Getting Around
The best way to get around the Old Town is on foot: parking is
expensive and there is no public transport available. The main Art
Nouveau district is within walking distance of the Old Town, while
a network of trams, trolleybuses and buses provides access to far-
flung attractions. Taxis are also abundant on Town Hall Square
(Rātslaukums). The main tourist information office here can offer
advice on guided tours.
Greater Riga
A1
P1 A2
Kišecers
D
Z
LA IR Lake
IE N Jugla
A Priedaįne
V Rīga
LA
A U Ūlupji
ĀR
IE
IE P4
A10
S
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LA
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A5
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A7
LA
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B Rīga International
IE
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S
A
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Da
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BA
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ESPLANĀDE
A8
A7
IE E S A6
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5
A ĪB
0 miles
G ĪV
Baloži
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LP
A Orthodox
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Cathedral
Ā
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Freedom
LA
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Monument
ĻA
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LV Ī B A
LA
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LA
IE
LA
LA
IE Rīga Central
IEL
U Railway Station
AUDĒ J
A
Autoosta
LA (Main Bus Station)
IE 300 m (330 yards)
Ē JU A
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13 Sights at a Glance
1 Dome Cathedral
2 Museum of Rīga’s History
and Navigation
Key
3 Rīga Castle
Street-by-Street area: see pp82–3 4 St James’s Cathedral
Major sight / Place of interest 5 Swedish Gate
6 Powder Tower
Pedestrian street
7 Museum of the Occupation
Major Road of Latvia
Railway 8 House of Blackheads
9 St Peter’s Church
0 Museum of Decorative Arts
0 metres 200 and Design
0 yards 200 q Museum of Jews in Latvia
w Latvian Ethnographic
Open-Air Museum
3 Rīga Castle
Rīgas pils
Pils laukums 3. Map B3. Museum of
Foreign Art: Tel 6722 6467. Open 11am–
Impressive cross-vaulted gallery of the Dome Cathedral
5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 ∑ vmm.lv
History Museum of Latvia: Tel 6722 1357.
1 Dome Cathedral plain, except for the tombs of Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun. & 8
Doma baznīca merchants and the 19th-century
stained glass. The woodwork of The city’s original Livonian
Doma laukums 1. Map B3. Tel 6722
7573. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm Sat–
the 17th-century pulpit is ornate, Order castle was destroyed
Tue, Thu, 9am–5pm Wed & Fri; Oct–Apr: however, as is the organ case, by Rīga’s citizens during a war
10am–5pm daily. Closed for special which is Mannerist with Baroque against the Order lasting from
events. & 5 10am Sun. ∑ doms.lv and Rococo additions. The organ 1297 to 1330. After losing, the
was built in Germany in 1884. townspeople were forced to
Founded as St Mary’s by Bishop In the summer it is possible to build a new castle on the
Albert von Buxhoeveden in 1211, visit the cross-vaulted gallery of present site just outside the
the cathedral became one of the Dome, the Romanesque city. Continuing quarrels
the city’s three seats of power cloister and courtyard. resulted in the Master of the
along with the Town Hall and Order leaving the capital, but
Rīga Castle. It gained its current Rīga Castle was destroyed by
name from the German word 2 Museum of the citizens once more in
dom (cathedral) during the Rīga’s History 1484. They were defeated
Reformation. The cathedral looks again and the next castle the
as if it has sunk, but in fact the and Navigation townspeople were compelled
land around it has been raised Rīga’s vēstures un to build forms the core of the
to keep out flood-water from kuğniecības muzejs current structure and was the
the Daugava river. Palasta iela 4. Map B3. Tel 6721 1358. headquarters of the Livonian
One of the largest places Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; Order until 1561. As well as
of worship in the region, the Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun. & being the official residence of
cathedral has been altered over 8 ∑ rigamuz.lv Latvia’s president, the building
the years and its bulky structure also earlier housed the History
exhibits a variety of styles. The Founded in 1773, this museum is Museum of Latvia (Latvijas
altar alcove and the east wing the oldest in Rīga. Housed in an
crossing are Romanesque, with a impressive building with tiled
cross-vaulted ceiling and stoves and stained-glass win-
rows of semi-circular windows. dows, it is also one of the city’s
Simpler Neo-Gothic additions most interesting museums. The
are characterized by pointed exhibition on navigation covers
arches, large windows the maritime history of the
and lierne vaulting, city up until World War I,
while the eastern and includes several
pediment and the large models of ships
steeple are in and material on
18th-century Krišjānis
Baroque style. The Valdemārs
portal was added (1825–91), a key
in the 19th century, figure of the Latvian
followed by an Art Model ship at the Museum of National Awakening.
Nouveau vestibule Rīga’s History and Navigation Other rooms cover
in the 20th century. everything from
Most of the interior’s decor prehistory to independence,
was destroyed during the with an emphasis on the mid- Changing of the guard outside Rīga Castle
Reformation, and it is now very 19th to mid-20th centuries. in the Old Town
For hotels and restaurants see p96 and p97
RĪGA 81
Key
Suggested route
A
L
IE
U
Ķ
Town Hall A
Ļ
K
anniversary in 2001.
Ķ
Ļ
A
K
LA
IE
U
EK
I NI
Statue of Roland ĒC
GR
A legendary medieval figure and
one of Charlemagne’s knights,
Roland became a symbol of the
independence of cities from
the local nobility.
Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia
8 . House of
Blackheads
Damaged by bombing in
1941, the ornate building
was restored to its former
glory during the 1990s.
For hotels and restaurants see p96 and p97
RĪGA 83
0 metres 100
S
K
Ā
R
Ņ
U
IE
L
A
K
U
N
G
U
LA
IE
LA
IE
ĻU
A
9 . St Peter’s Church
ST
Photography
Museum traces
the development
of photography
from 1839 to 1941
through photo-
graphs and camera
equipment.
Mentzendorff House
Constructed in 1695 to
Dannenstern House house an apothecary, this
was the largest dwelling building is now a museum
in 17th-century Rīga. devoted to the life of Rīga’s
merchant class in the 17th
and 18th centuries.
84 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
0 Museum of
Decorative Arts
and Design
Dekoratīvās mākslas un
dizaina muzejs
Skārņu iela 10/20. Map C3.
Tel 6722 7833. Open 11am–5pm
Tue–Sun. & 8 = ∑ dlmm.lv
Vidzeme Spinning
Wheel-Maker’s Homestead Dutch Windmill
Built in 1890, this windmill,
from Latgale, has a movable
“cap” including sails, a shaft
and a gear wheel.
. Kurzeme Peasants’
Homestead
This wooden building with a
reed-thatched roof is typical of
19th-century rural architecture
in southwest Kurzeme.
Zemgale Peasants’
Homestead
includes a dwelling-
house, a bathhouse
and a granary.
Handicrafts
Handicraft displays
include traditional
wickerwork.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Kurzeme
Fishermen’s
Village
Entrance
. Usma Church Old Believers’ House
Most wooden churches were Located in a Latgale village,
replaced by stone buildings the house exhibits a loom
in the 19th century, making for weaving and a samovar
this a rare example. used to boil water for tea.
86 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
2 Jūrmala
20 km (12 miles) W of Rīga. * 56,000.
£ from Rīga. n Lienes iela 5 Majori,
6714 7900. ∑ jurmala.lv
R St Joseph’s Cathedral
Rakstvežu iela 13. Tel 6342 9775.
Decorated inside with scenes
from the Bible, St Joseph’s
Cathedral (Šv Jāzepa katedrāle)
attained its current towering
form in the 19th century. The
congregation needed a larger
church but had no land on
which to build, so they expanded
the existing building upwards. Beautifully carved Baroque altar, St Anne’s Basilica, Liepāja
88 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
5 Rundāle Palace
Rundāles pils
Designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli, Rundāle Palace
is one of the finest in the region. Work began in 1736 on a
Baroque summer residence for Ernst Johann Biron, but was
left unfinished when he was exiled. After Biron’s return,
the interiors were renovated in Rococo style. Biron’s son
removed most of the embellishments when he left in 1795,
when Courland was annexed by Russia. Damaged in the
20th-century restoration begun in 1972, work is still in
progress. The rooms have served as government offices, Detail, Rose Room
an elementary school and a granary. Rococo touches such as fake
marble, silver detailing and floral
motifs adorn the room.
. Duke’s Bedroom
This room was the focal point of
Biron’s private apartments, which
occupied the central
block of the palace.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
42 km (26 miles) SW of Rīga.
Tel 6396 2274. Open 10am–6pm
daily. & 8 call in advance for
excursions and events. 0 The
gardens: Open May–Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm
daily. ∑ rundale.net
Transport
@ from Bauska.
Duchess’s Boudoir
The duchess could rest and receive visitors during the
day in her splendidly decorated boudoir, which has
now been restored. The duchess and other family
members lived in the west wing.
. White Hall
This ballroom boasts a
parquet floor and lavish
stuccowork by German
sculptor Johann Michael
Graff. The restrained Duke of Courland, Ernst Johann Biron
colour scheme gives the (1690–1772)
room its name.
90 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
6 Sigulda
50 km (31 miles) NE of Rīga.
* 15,000. £ from Rīga. @ from
Rīga. n Valdemāra iela 1a, 6797 1335.
∑ sigulda.lv
stretching for about 100 km (62 miles) along the Gauja uja
Sigulda Ga
•
Inčiems
uja
Ga
Cēsis
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Once the seat of the German
crusaders, Cēsis is a romantic
Practical Information
town with a lakeside park.
40 km (25 miles) NE of Rīga.
n Gauja National Park Visitors’
Centre, Baznicas iela 7, Sigulda,
CĒ SIS 6797 4006. 8 guided canoe
trips organized by Campo in Rīga
(2922 2339) and Makars in
Sigulda (2924 4948).
Raiskums Cīrulīši ∑ daba.gov.lv
Transport
£ from Rīga. @
a
uj
Āraiši
Ga
Drabeši
Kārļi
Am
at
a
Gaujasmala
Leriķi
Līgatne
Līga tne
Lake Āraiši
The remains of a rudimentary fortress were found on
Augšligatne the lake bed. A lakeside reconstruction re-creates life
here in the 9th and 10th centuries.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Key
Līgatne Education and Major road
Recreation Centre Minor road
This centre hosts wildlife,
such as brown bears and Other road
European bison. Its footpaths Railway
and motorable tracks wind past Park boundary
the spacious animal enclosures.
For keys to symbols see back flap
92 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
DIRECTORY
Documentation United Kingdom Finnair Tallink
J Alunana iela 5, Rīga. ∑ finnair.com ∑ tallink.com
∑ am.gov.lv
∑ ec.europa.eu Tel 6777 4700. KLM Terrabalt
United States ∑ klm.com ∑ terrabalt.lv
Visitor Raiņa bulvāris 7, Rīga. Lufthansa
Information Tel 6703 6200. ∑ lufthansa.com
Rail Travel
∑ latviatourism.lv Central Railway
Emergency Ryanair
∑ liveriga.com/ Station
Numbers ∑ ryanair.com
en/3613 ∑ ldz.lv
Rīga International
Ambulance Airport Travelling
Embassies and Tel 03.
Consulates ∑ riga-airport.com by Coach
Fire. SAS Autoosta
Australia Tel 01. ∑ flysas.com ∑ autoosta.lv
Lienes iela 28, Rīga. Police
Tel 6722 4251. Arriving by Sea Ecolines
Tel 02. ∑ ecolines.ee
Canada Ferry Terminal Eurolines
Baznīcas iela 20/22, Rīga.
Arriving by Air ∑ freeportofriga.lv ∑ eurolines.com
Tel 6781 3945. airBaltic Lisco
France ∑ airbaltic.com. ∑ lisco.lt
Raina bulvāris 9, Rīga. easyJet Scandlines
Tel 6703 6600. ∑ easyjet.com ∑ scandlines.lt
94 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
Latvian music. The best blues Festival in Rīga are also important expansive theatrical works. Rīga’s
venues in Rīga are the Bites events. Ave Sol also hosts small most important theatre festival,
Blūza Klubs, Hamlets and Carpe classical concerts. Homo Novus, concentrates on
Diem restaurant. The summer The Latvian National Opera experimental theatre and dance.
sees performances on Liepāja’s is the venue for world-class per- The Latvian Music Information
open-air stage Pūt Vējiņi. formances of opera and ballet. Centre provides details of perfor-
Some of the best classical The Latvian National Theatre, mances across the country.
music concerts take place at the Dailes Theatre, the New Bookings can be made at the
annual events such as the Rīga Theatre and the Russian venue or through ticket agencies
International Early Music Festival Drama Theatre are some of the such as Biļešu Paradīze. Tickets
in Rundāle Palace (see pp88–9). best places to see theatre in can also be booked online on
Saulkrasti Jazz Festival and Latvian or Russian. The Liepāja the Latvian Culture Vortal, which
the International Music Theatre in Liepāja produces has a nationwide calendar.
DIRECTORY
Markets Food and Drink Pulkvedim Neviens Hamlets
Neraksta Jāņa sēta 5, Rīga.
Central Market Emihls Gustavs Peldu iela 26–28, Rīga. Tel 6722 9938
Negu St 7, Rīga. Chocolate Tel 6721 3886.
Tel 6722 9985. Homo Novus
Aspazijas bulvāris 24, Rīga. ∑ pulkvedis.lv
∑ theatre.lv
Handicrafts ∑ sokolade.lv Rīgas Balzāms
International Music
Torņa iela 4, Rīga.
Grieži Laima Festival
Tel 6721 4494.
Mazā miesnieku iela1. Ģertrūdes iela 6, Rīga. ∑ rigasritmi.lv
Rīga. Tel 6750 7236. ∑ laima.lv
Sapņu Fabrika
Kaļķu Vārti
Lāčplēša 101, Rīga.
Sāmsalas Kalēji Kaļķu iela 11a, Rīga.
Latvijas Balzams Tel 6722 9045.
Laipu iela 6, Rīga. ∑ kalkuvarti.lv
Audēju iela 8, Rīga. ∑ sapnufabrika.lv
Tel 6722 4496. Latvian Culture
Tel 6722 8814. Skyline Bar
Tine Vortal
Reval Hotel Latvija,
Vaļņu iela2, Rīga. Latvijas Bite ∑ kultura.lv/en
Elizabetes iela 55, Rīga.
Tel 6721 6728. Ģertrūdes iela 13, Rīga. Tel 6777 2222. Latvian Music
Tel 6727 9495. Information Centre
Art and Antiques Tobago Casino Club ∑ lmic.lv
Aspāzijas bulvāris 22, Rīga.
Art Nouveau Rīga Nightlife Latvian National
Tel 6722 5411.
Strēlnieku 9, Laipu 8, Rīga. Opera
Casino Aladins
Tel 2836 7112. Music, Theatre Aspāzijas bulvāris 3, Rīga.
Dzirnavu iela 57, Rīga.
and Dance ∑ opera.lv
Doma Antikvariāts Tel 2929 6060.
Doma laukums 1a, Rīga. Arēna Rīga Latvian National
Tel 6781 4401. Fontaine Palace Skanstes iela 21, Rīga. Theatre
∑ antikvariats.lv Dzirnavu iela 4, Liepāja. ∑ arenariga.com Kronvalda bulvāris 2, Rīga.
Tel 6348 8510. ∑ teatris.lv
Māksla XO Ave Sol
Skārņu 8, Rīga. ∑ fontainepalace.lv Valdemāra Iela 5, Rīga. Liepāja Theatre
Tel 2948 2098. Tel 6704 3631 Teatra iela 4, Liepāja.
I Love You
Retro A Tel 6340 7811.
Aldaru iela 9, Rīga. Biļešu Paradīze ∑ liepajasteatris.lv
Tallinas 54, Rīga. ∑ bilesuparadize.lv
Tel 6722 5304.
Tel 6731 5306. New Rīga Theatre
∑ iloveyou.lv Bites Blūza Klubs
Volmar Lāčplēša iela 25, Rīga.
La Rocca Dzirnavu iela 34a, Rīga. ∑ jrt.lv
Šķūņu 6, Rīga.
∑ bluesclub.lv
Tel 6721 4278. Brivibas iela 96, Rīga. Pūt Vējiņi
Tel 6750 6030. Carpe Diem Peldu iela 57, Liepāja.
Amber ∑ larocca.lv Meistaru iela 10–12, Rīga. Tel 6342 4479.
∑ carpediem.lv
Amber Line Latvia’s 1st Rock Café Russian Drama
Torna 4, Rīga. Četri Balti Krekli Theatre
Stendera 18/20, Liepāja. Vecpilsētas iela 12, Rīga.
Tel 6732 5058. Kaļķu iela 16, Rīga.
Tel 6348 1555. ∑ trd.lv
Dzintara Galerija Dailes Theatre
∑ pablo.lv
Torņa iela 4, Rīga. Brīvības iela 75, Rīga. Saulkrasti Jazz
Tel 6732 5157. Nautilus ∑ dailesteatris.lv Festival
Kungu iela 8, Rīga. ∑ saulkrastijazz.lv
Dzintara Muzejs Depo
Kalēju iela 9/11, Rīga. Tel 6781 4455. Vaļņu iela 32, Rīga.
Tel 6708 7545. ∑ nautilus.lv ∑ klubsdepo.lv
96 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Rīga Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
B&B Rīga €
B&B Map F2 € under €75
Ģertrūdes iela 43, LV-1011 €€ €75 to €150
€€€ over €150
Tel 6727 8505
∑ bb-riga.lv
This family-run B&B, located in KULDĪGA: Metropole €
the 19th-century part of town, Historic
has tasteful en suites equipped Baznicas iela 11, LV-3301
with TV and fridge. Tel 6335 0588
∑ hotel-metropole.lv
Cinnamon Sally € Skillfully restored, 19th-century
Hostel Map E3 building in the centre of the
Merķeļa iela 1, 3rd Floor, LV-1001 historic little town. Tidy en suites
Tel 2204 2280 and a friendly ambience.
∑ cinnamonsally.com Guests relax in the bright, colourful lounge
On the 3rd floor of an apartment of Cinnamon Sally, Rīga LIEPĀJA: Libava €€
block, this hostel has a homely Luxury
atmosphere and good social but comfortable rooms, friendly Vecā ostmala 29, LV-3401
areas. Choice of dorms and service and decent breakfast. Tel 6342 5318
private doubles. ∑ libava.lv
Grand Palace €€€ Canalside hotel providing an
Homestay € Luxury Map B3 affordable slice of luxury with
B&B Map D3 Pils iela 12, LV-1050 smart en suite rooms, a
Stockholmas iela 1, LV-1014 Tel 6704 4000 basement spa centre and a
Tel 6755 3016 ∑ grandpalaceriga.com sofa-filled conservatory.
∑ homestay.lv Elegant, upmarket hotel with
Family-run B&B in the leafy plush, superbly equipped rooms LIEPĀJA: Promenade €€€
suburb of Mežaparks. Cosy rooms and a range of facilities that Luxury
in a modern timber house. Just a includes a gym, sauna and two Vecā ostmala 40, LV-3401
20-minute tram ride away from haute cuisine restaurants. Tel 6348 8288
the Centre. ∑ promenadehotel.lv
Hotel Bergs €€€ Superbly renovated red-brick
Albert Hotel €€ Design Map E2 warehouse on a canalside
Business Map D1 Elizabetes iela 83/85, LV-1050 location. Offers luxurious rooms
Dzirnavu iela 33, LV-1010 Tel 6777 0900 with all mod cons and a classy
Tel 6733 1717 ∑ hotelbergs.lv café-restaurant.
∑ alberthotel.lv The tasteful luxury suites at this
Just round the corner from the design-conscious hotel boast RUNDĀLE: Baltā Māja €
celebrated Art Nouveau district, chic contemporary fittings, sleek B&B
this contemporary hotel offers bathrooms and fully equipped Pilsrundāle, LV-3921
neat, comfortable en suites. Great kitchenettes. Tel 6396 2140
views from top-floor café too. Located in what were previously
servants' quarters just outside
Rundāle Palace, this 8-room B&B
DK Choice Rest of Latvia offers simple accommodation
Hotel Centra €€ with a rustic touch.
Boutique Map C4 CĒSIS: Hotel Kolonna €€
Audēju iela 1, LV-1050 Historic SIGULA: Hotel Sigulda €€
Tel 6722 6441 Vienibas laukums 1, LV-4101 Historic
∑ hotelcentra.lv Tel 6412 0122 Pils iela 6, LV-2150
A well-run boutique hotel, ∑ hotelkolonna.com Tel 6797 2263
the quiet and calm Centra is Dating from the 1930s, this ∑ hotelsigulda.lv
located in the heart of Rīga's refurbished hotel in the centre of This historic building in the
nightlife district. Set in a town, offers plush rooms with leafy centre of town provides
handsomely restored 19th- spacious bathrooms. smart, cosy rooms and an
century building the hotel indoor pool in its interesting
offers spacious rooms that JŪRMALA: Jūrmala Spa €€€ modern annexe.
favour a clean, minimalist style. Spa
Jomas iela 47/49, LV-2015 SIGULDA: Spa Hotel Ezeri €€
Tel 6778 4415 Spa
Radi un Draugi €€ ∑ hoteljurmala.com Sigulda, LV-2150
B&B Map C4 Modern spa resort and Tel 6797 3009
Mārstaļu iela 1/3, LV-1050 conference centre with swanky ∑ hotelezeri.lv
Tel 6782 0200 rooms, offering a full range of spa Out in the countryside with
∑ hotelradiundraugi.lv and beauty treatments. Located well laid out Scandinavian-style
Centrally located hotel that offers on the main pedestrianized strip rooms, a spa centre, pools and a
excellent value with its simple near the golden beaches. pleasant restaurant.
For map references see pp78–9
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 97
Neiburgs €€€
International Map C3
Jauniela 25, LV-1050
Tel 6711 5522
Quality Latvian–European fare
in a beautifully light and airy
Art Nouveau building. Choose
between pastas, salads, roast
meat and fish dishes. Attractive dining area at Neiburgs, Rīga
NORTH EASTERN EUROPE 99
ESTONIA
Presenting a heady mix of medieval heritage and technological advancement,
Estonia has rebuilt itself in the post-Soviet era, adapting to the demands of the
modern world while preserving a distinct cultural identity. With its rich historic
architecture, natural landscapes and dynamic culture, the country makes a
significant impression on the ever-growing number of visitors that it attracts.
A group of Estonian folk dancers performing in traditional costume during a local festival
Tourists exploring the Old Town in Tallinn
100 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
Great for help. In 1709, Peter defeated and 1933. In 1934, a prominent
the Swedish King Charles XII, which nationalist politician, Konstantin
consigned the country to tsarist rule for Päts, staged a coup.
the next 200 years. He continued to rule until the Soviet
During World War I (1914–18), the invasion on 16 June 1940, which brought
prospect of Estonian independence a brutal end to independent Estonia.
seemed bleak. However, the 1917 The German invasion, which came a year
Revolution that ended the tsarist regime later, was seen by many in Estonia as a
in Russia encouraged Estonia to declare liberation. In September 1944, the Red
independence in February 1918, in Army returned to Estonia, forcing the Nazis
Pärnu. Political stability proved difficult to surrender, and subjecting the country to
to establish, however; there were 20 almost five decades of Soviet rule.
coalition governments between 1919 From the 1960s, Estonia’s link with
the non-Soviet world began to grow.
KEY DATES IN ESTONIAN HISTORY At the time of the collapse of the USSR
1219 Danes seize Tallinn in 1991, Estonians were better prepared
1227 Germans conquer all of Estonia for a capitalist economy than any of the
1558–83 Northern Estonia comes under Swedish other Soviet republics. Thirteen years
rule, southern Estonia under Polish rule after independence, entry into the EU
1629 Estonia passes into Swedish hands in 2004 and NATO has further
1709 Great Northern War between Charles XII strengthened the economy.
of Sweden and Peter the Great results in
Russian victory Language and Culture
1885 Russification of the Baltics begins
In general, Estonians are more strongly
1918 Declaration of Estonian independence signed;
Germany loses World War I
influenced by Scandinavian culture than
1920 Treaty of Tartu confirms Estonia’s independence
by that of their Baltic neighbours. Finns
1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact puts Estonia under
and Estonians also share close linguistic
the influence of the USSR links through the Finno-Ugric language
1940 Soviet occupation begins family. The most important aspects of
1941 German occupation begins Estonian culture are distinctly pagan in
1944 Return of Soviet forces; Stalinist era begins origin, such as the Midsummer festival
1953 Stalin dies Jaanipaev (John’s Day), characterized by
1989 Baltic Way demonstratation occured drinking, dancing and revelry. Folk culture
1991 Estonia declares independence is central to national identity, and the All
2004 Estonia joins NATO and the EU Estonian Song Festival, held every five
2011 Introduction of the euro years since 1869, remains an iconic
occasion for the nation.
ESTONIA 101
Exploring Estonia
Estonia offers an irresistible blend of cultural heritage
and natural beauty. Walking is an ideal way to explore the
country’s historic towns. Highlights include the capital
Tallinn, with its lovely Old Town dotted with church spires
and fascinating museums, picturesque Pärnu, with its
elegant 19th-century villas and long sandy beach, and the
charming university town of Tartu. The best way of getting
around the country is by road, as most sights are within a
few hours’ drive of each other. A well-developed bus system
links all the major towns and cities. Estonia’s largest island,
Saaremaa, is well connected to the mainland by ferry.
View towards the Baltic Sea from St Olav’s
Sights at a Glance Church, Tallinn
1 Tallinn pp102–109
2 Saaremaa Island pp110–11
3 Pärnu pp112–13 Helsinki,
Stockholm, St Petersburg Gulf of Finland
4 Tartu pp114–15 Mariehamn
St Petersburg
Sillamäe •
•
Narva
1 •
1 Jõhvi
Kapellskar •
• Kiviõli
TALLINN Rakvere
Tapa
3
•
Paldiski •
Baltic
2
4
•
Sea Ääsmäe
Vormsi Lake
Island Paide Peipsi
9
•
Kärdla Märjamaa
•
•
RUSSIAN
a la
•
FEDERATION
3
Haapsalu Põltsamaa
ig
Hiiumaa V •
Island 5
4
gi
Muhu • 10
jo
Lihula a
Island Em
• 92 Tartu
Trigi r nu Viljandi • Lake
Pärnu Pä
Vortsjärv
92
Saaremaa 3
Island
6
6 Viluste •
Kuressaare Kihnu
• • 2
Island Otepää Võru
4
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway
International border
Elizabeth’s Church, graced by an elegant spire, Pärnu
For keys to symbols see back flap
102 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
1 Tallinn
Founded by the Danes at the beginning of the 13th century,
Tallinn was for ages known by its Teutonic name, Reval. The
city flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries, when it was
one of the leading members of the powerful Hanseatic League.
The brilliantly restored Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
since 1997, is a living monument to this golden period of Tallinn’s
history. The vast majority of sights in the city are concentrated
in and around Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) and Toompea, in
the medieval Old Town. Its winding cobbled streets are dotted
with elegant back alleys, courtyards and spired churches, as
well as fascinating museums that present the city’s historic and
cultural traditions. An architectural wonder, Tallinn has grown
into a dynamic, chic and exciting city over the years, with a MI
IU
population of about 400,000 people.
AAS
TORNIDE Church of the
GUMN
VÄLJAK Transfiguration
of Our Lord
S U U R - K LO O S T R
I
Sights at a Glance Central Railway Station
150 m (170 yards)
1 Town Hall N
U
2 Holy Spirit Church N N
E
3 Great Guild Hall
4 Dominican Monastery
5 Niguliste Church
TU
6 House of Blackheads O
H
NUNNE
K IR
K
7 Estonian Museum of Applied H
U
IK U PÕ IK
RA
8 St Olav’s Church OM
IM
HT
EH
TO
KO
E
LG
ED
U
EV
NK
q Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
A
DU
SK
RA
TOOMPEA
LG
RUTU NIGULISTE
LG
JA
JA
K
PIK
KE
HI
LÜ
RÜÜTLI
LO S S I
J U
P L AT S
TA A N I
H A R
LO S S I
KUNINGA
GARDEN
P L AT S
F A L G I T E E
KO
MA RÜÜTLI
ND
AN
DI
TE
E
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
HARJUMÄGI VABADUSE
VÄLJAK
TOOM
PEA
TEE
IES
PU
L I
AR
KA
Key
Street-by-Street area: see pp104–105
Major sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Greater Tallinn
Ferry Terminal
500 m (550 yards)
Baltic Sea
Kalamaja
T EE Tallinn
Ferry Terminal
ÄE LA
I
M
NA Central Railway
R AN Station
K
PIK
Tallinn
I
M
U
TO LLI
RI
2
Kompassi Raua Kadriorg
O
TO
RA
8
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Torupilli
Sibulaküla 2
Tõnismäe Sikupilli
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Veerenni
Tallinn Lennart
Meri Airport
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IM
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0 yards 800
O
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Key
Tallin City
Area of the main map
Museum
HA
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PÜ
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Pharmacy
E
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I
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V
K AT
as Kadriorg Palace, east of the Old Town,
MÜÜRIVAHE
A R II
RAEKOJA NA
K Ä IK
P L AT S and other sights of interest situated further
away. Tallinn’s transport options are very
RA
EKO
JA
good, made up of an integrated network
Museum of
Estonian
VIRU
of trolleybuses, buses and trams. Driving
Photography
around Tallinn may be a little disorienting
INGA
KUN
for visitors. There are several confusing one-
A
V
SUUR-KAJRA
Ä
V A
IK
E-
KA
trolleybuses leave from Vabaduse Square
or the Viru Keskus Terminal, while most
R
JA
V
A
NA tram lines pass by the Old Town.
-P
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ÜR IVA
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St John’s
Church
Tallinn Lennart
Meri Airport
4 km (2.5 miles)
Street-by-Street: Around
Town Hall Square
In the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, the magnificent Town
Hall Square has for centuries served as a marketplace.
Gently sloping, the cobblestoned square is surrounded by
a ring of elegantly designed medieval buildings. The early
14th-century Town Hall is northern Europe’s only surviving
late-Gothic town hall. A meeting point for locals and visitors,
the square captures the essence of the Old Town. In summer,
it is filled with open-air cafés and restaurant tables. Busy market in Town Hall Square, seen from
the Town Hall tower
6 House of
Blackheads
was the
meeting
place for the
Brotherhood
of Blackheads.
IMU
PÜHAVA
PLA OJA
TS
K
RAE
Key
Suggested route
4 Dominican Monastery
Among Tallinn’s oldest buildings, the monastery complex also
includes an atmospheric museum which has some beautiful
stone carvings.
Viru Street
One of the most famous in the Old Town,
this busy street is packed with a variety
of restaurants, bars, cafés and shops.
M
Ü
Ü
RI
VA
H
E
V
E
N
E
SA
IR
UN
V
1 . Town Hall
Occupying pride of place in Town Hall
Square, this imposing Gothic building
A Museum of has been the focus of civic life since
RJ
KA Estonian the Middle Ages.
E
VāIK Photography
SUUR K A has an extensive
RJA
collection housed
A
in two buildings.
NG
NI
KU
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IS
UL
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5 Niguliste Church
This remarkable Gothic church is now a
Tallinn landmark boasting an excellent
R museum of religious art. The church
Ü
Ü holds organ recitals every weekend.
TL
I
106 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
2Holy Spirit
Church
Pühavaimu kirik
Pühavaimu 2. Map D3. Tel 646 4430.
@ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open May–Sep:
9am–5pm Mon–Sat; Oct–Apr: 10am–
3pm Mon–Sat. & 5 3pm (in English).
∑ eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu
5 Niguliste Church
Niguliste kirik
Niguliste 3. Map C4. Tel 631 4330.
@ 5, 40. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
& tickets available until 4:30pm (call
644 9903 for bookings). 8 book in
advance; extra charges for guided
tours (up to 35 persons) in a foreign
language. ∑ nigulistemuuseum.ee
Dedicated to St Nicholas,
Niguliste Church was built in
the 13th century, although
nearly all that remains today is
from the 15th century. Most of
A passageway in the medieval Tallinn’s medieval artworks were
Dominican Monastery destroyed in the Reformation
riots of 1524. However, according Ornate front door of the Renaissance House
4Dominican to legend, Niguliste Church of Blackheads
Monastery escaped being ransacked due
Dominiiklaste klooster to the laudable efforts of the of the magnificent 30-m (98-ft)
church warden, who sealed original remains. Organ and
Vene 16/18. Map D3. Tel 515 5489. the door with melted lead. The choral concerts are regularly
@ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open May– church was restored during Soviet held here at weekends.
Sep: 10am–6pm daily. Private tours times after being damaged by
are available year round. & 8 tour
Soviet air raids in World War II
offered to the monastery’s inner
and since then has served as 6 House of
chambers through the cloister.
= Dominican Monastery Museum:
a museum. Blackheads
Open mid-May–mid-Sep: 10am–6pm Today, the building houses Mustpeade maja
daily; winter: by appointment. Tallinn’s most impressive
Pikk 26. Map D3. Tel 631 3199.
& ∑ kloostri.ee collection of medieval religious @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open only
artworks. These include the for chamber music concerts (call for
Founded by Dominican detailed altarpiece, painted in timings & fill entry permit application
monks in 1246, this monastery 1482 by Herman Rode of Lübeck, on website) or by appointment.
was a renowned centre of showing scenes from the life ∑ mustpeademaja.ee
learning and thrived until the of St Nicholas, as well as the
Reformation riots broke out in beheading of St George, and This 15th-century Renaissance
1524. The Lutherans destroyed Dance Macabre, a 15th-century building was the meeting
the monastery and forced the frieze by the German painter and place of the Brotherhood of
monks into exile. In 1531, a fire sculptor Bernt Notke, considered Blackheads, an association
damaged most of the desecrated the church’s finest object. of unmarried merchants and
St Catherine’s Church, the Unfortunately only a fragment shipowners, who could join the
monastery’s south wing. more powerful Great Guild upon
After suffering neglect for marriage. The unusual name was
four centuries, the ruined inspired by the North African
monastery was renovated in St Maurice, the organization’s
1954. Today a serene cloister, patron saint, whose image can
its atmospheric passageways be seen on the ornate front
and a pretty inner garden door of the building.
draw visitors. Unlike their counterparts
The star attraction, however, in Rīga, the Tallinn Blackheads
is the excellent Dominican were obliged to defend the city
Monastery Museum, with in times of strife and proved
Estonia’s largest collection themselves especially formidable
of medieval and Renaissance adversaries during the Livonian
stone carvings created by Wars (see p99). However, in
local stonemasons. One of the general, it seems that the wealthy
prominent works, a decorative Blackheads lived somewhat
relief of an angel on a triangular leisurely and hedonistic lives.
slab, is attributed to Hans von The association survived until
Aken, the popular 16th-century the Soviet invasion in 1940.
German Mannerist painter. The Today, the House of Blackheads
collection also includes carved Exterior of Niguliste Church, one of Tallinn’s regularly hosts chamber music
14th-century tombstones. medieval treasures concerts in its elegant main hall.
108 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
7 Estonian
Museum of Applied
Art and Design
Eesti tarbekunsti ja
disainimuuseum
Lai 17. Map D2. Tel 627 4600. @ 3.
v 1, 2. Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun.
& = ∑ etdm.ee
0 Toompea Castle
Toompea loss
Lossi plats 1a. Map B4. Tel 631 6357.
v 3, 4. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
8 call in advance. 7 ^
∑ riigikogu.ee
2 Saaremaa Island
The largest island in Estonia, Saaremaa is the jewel of its
archipelago. The capital, Kuressaare, is strikingly picturesque,
and its relatively tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal base
from which to explore the island. Sareema has a lot to offer
in terms of things to see and do, but its extraordinary natural
beauty is the real attraction and the reason why so many
people feel compelled to return here. The breathtaking
landscape of Vilsandi National Park and the abundance of
old churches and fascinating historical relics that dot the
island are just some of the highlights.
Võhma
isa
mõ
a nsula
i
Pe g
Ta
n
Mustjala
0 miles 10
Saime
G ul f o f
Rī g a
Sõrve
Peninsula
Mõntu
Sääre
Key
Mihkli Farm Museum Major road
This museum has one of the most authentic Minor road
displays of rural architecture and traditional
lifestyles in Estonia. Many of the buildings Ferry route
here were built between 1827 and 1856. Park boundary
Angla Windmills
Standing along the main
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
road from Kuressaare to Leisi,
Practical Information
the five remaining wooden
220 km (137 miles) SW of Tallinn.
windmills at Angla are an
n Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, 453
iconic symbol of Saaremaa
3120. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm
Island. In the mid-19th century
Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, Sun;
there were 800 functional
Oct–Apr: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri,
windmills on the island.
10am–4pm Sat, Sun. 8
∑ saaremaa.ee
Transport
k Kuressaare. @ from Tallinn,
Tartu & Pärnu to Kuressaare.
g from Virtsu to Kuivastu, Hiiumaa
Island to Triigi & Roomassaare to
Ruhnu, (372) 14204.
Hiiumaa Island
18km (11 miles)
Muhu
Island
Leisi
Triigi
Liiva
Angla Orissaare
Kuivastu
Karja Virtsu
Tagavere
8 km (5 miles)
Tallinn
145 km (90 miles)
Laimjala
Kaali
Koljala
Upa
Kuressaare
Karja Church
The medieval church is best known for its
Ruhnu elaborate stone carvings, which include
Island a relief of the Crucifixion above the side
Abruka 75 km
(45 miles)
door and some remarkable figures inside
depicting saints.
KEY
VE E
6 Ammende Villa
ÕH
Railway Station
5 km (3 miles)
PÕHJA
PIKK
K E SKVÄL JA K Bus
MALMÖ Station
P Ü H AVA I
HOM
HOSPIDALI
St Catherine’s Town
Church Hall
MIK
UUS
M UNG A
ÕHTU
ÕHTU P
MU
0 metres 200
VEE
VN -TAL L I N N A
RÜ ÜT L I
0 yards 200
RÜ Ü TLI
NIKOLA
KUNINGA
I
LÕ U N A
ST
RIN Koidula
IE
PÜ H AV
GI
NA
PU
Park
LÕ U
E
ER
M
ESPLA
VEE
AIMU
U
UR
EE
M RI
ST
N RINGI
NA
GI
IE
NIKOLAI
A
PU
I
D
RE
E
M ES
PL
Ammende AN ADI
AA
DI ESPLANA
Villa
R St John’s Church
Jaani 5. Tel 744 2229. Open Jun–Aug:
10am–7pm Mon–Sat; Sep–May:
10am–7pm Tue–Sat. & 5
∑ eelk.ee/tartu.jaani
Dating from 1330, this church
(Jaani kirik) was severely
damaged by bombing during
World War II. Despite extensive
Town Hall Square, with the Kissing Students Fountain in the centre renovations and the addition of
a new spire in 1999, the church
P Town Hall Square erected in 1998. Most of the remains one of Northern Europe’s
Tartu’s historic centre is set square’s original medieval best examples of brick Gothic
around this square (Raekoja architecture burned down architecture. Hundreds of elabor-
plats), with the Emajõgi river in the Great Fire of 1775, ate terracotta figures, dating from
to the east and Toomemägi and today, the gently sloping the Middle Ages, adorn its
hill just behind. Overlooking it cobblestoned square is interior and exterior. Originally
from the top is the Town Hall, distinctly Neo–Classical, a there were more than 1,000
in front of which stands the look that is in harmony with figures but some have been
Kissing Students Fountain the rest of the city centre. destroyed over time.
St John’s A
ÜTL
NG
Building Church MU
JA
U
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VA B
TS
I
AN
LU
3 St John’s Church
I
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AD
GILD
4 Tartu Art Museum
USE
KOM
JA I
K A GILD
MA
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Emajõg
O
5 Father and Son Statue U
PA
GI
PUI
ÜLIKO
M
B
LAI
ST
I
NI
EST
RI
I
Tartu University I
ÜTR
OLI
i
EE
TOOMEMÄGI RA
EK
OJA
River Boat Pier
Cathedral 100 m
Town Hall TOWN (110 yards)
HALL SQUARE
I
SS
LO E
P OBus Station
KÜ
SS Bridge
I
Ü
I
LI
KO
Father and
Son Statue
O
LI
For hotels and restaurants see p120 and p121 For keys to symbols see back flap
ESTONIA 115
DIRECTORY
Documentation Emergency Lennart Meri Tallinn Tallink
Numbers Airport ∑ tallink.ee
∑ vm.ee
∑ ec.europa.eu Ambulance Tel 605 8888. Viking Line
Tel 112. ∑ tallinn-airport.ee ∑ vikingline.fi
Visitor
Information Fire Lufthansa Rail Travel
Tel 112.
∑ visitestonia.com ∑ lufthansa.com Balti Jaam
Police
Toompuiestee 37, Tallinn.
Embassies Tel 112. SAS
Tel 3721 447.
∑ flysas.com ∑ baltijaam.ee
Canada Arriving by Air
Toomkooli 13, Tallinn. Tel
627 3311. ∑ canada.ee airBaltic Arriving by Sea Arriving by Coach
United Kingdom ∑ airbaltic.com
Eckerö Line Ecolines
Wismari 6, Tallinn. Tel 667 easyjet ∑ ecolines.ee
4700. ∑ ukinestonia. ∑ eckeroline.fi
∑ easyjet.com
fco.gov.uk Eurolines
Estonian Air Passenger Port ∑ eurolines.ee
United States
∑ estonian-air.ee Sadama 25, Tallinn.
Kentmanni 20, Tallinn. Tallinn Bus Station
Tel 668 8100. ∑ estonia. Finnair Tel 631 8550. Lastekodu 46, Tallinn.
usembassy.gov ∑ finnair.com ∑ portoftallinn.com Tel 3721 2550.
118 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
Music, Theatre and Dance of contemporary Estonian and cultural events can be made at
Lovers of live music are spoilt international dance. the venue or through ticketing
for choice in Tallinn. Café Amigo The best place for serious agencies such as Piletilevi.
attracts the biggest local rock, theatre lovers is the Von Krahl
pop and blues bands. Von Krahl Theatre (though English trans-
Baar is one of the best places in lations are rare) and the Tallinn Folk Festivals
the city to experience the local Linnateater, which specializes in A major part of Estonia’s cultural
alternative scene, while Rock contemporary works. life revolves around folk festivals.
Café offers everything from blues In Tartu, the main concert Among the most important, the
to funk. No99 hosts jazz concerts venue, Vanemuine, stages Folkloorifestival in Võru is one
on Fridays and Saturdays. theatre, classical music, ballet and of the biggest, while the Hiiu
Estonia has an outstanding other shows while in Pärnu, the Folk Festival in Hiiumaa has a
tradition of classical music. town’s Concert Hall hosts a wide particularly authentic ambience
Tallinn’s National Symphony range of concerts and events. created by its rustic setting. The
Orchestra regularly puts on sell- Eesti Muusikafestivalid has a splendid Narva Historic Festival
out performances. Concerts also list of nationwide music festivals involves a re-enactment of the
take place in churches and in the and The Baltic Times and In Your Great Northern War, while
Estonian Music Academy. Kanuti Pocket offer information on arts Obinitsa hosts several festivals
Gildi Saal usually hosts the best and entertainment. Bookings for celebrating Setu culture.
DIRECTORY
Handicrafts Liviko Lounge 24 National Symphony
Mere pst 6, Tallinn. Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Orchestra
A-Galerii Tel 683 7745. Rävala pst 3. ∑ erso.ee
Hobusepea 2, Tallinn. Tel 682 3424.
Tel 646 4101.
Stockmann No99
Liivalaia 53, Tallinn. Maailm Sakala 3, Tallinn.
Bogapott Tel 633 9539. Rüütli 12, Tartu. Tel 668 8798.
Pikk jalg 9, Tallinn. Tel 742 9099.
Tel 631 3181. Nightlife Piletilevi
Mirage ∑ piletilevi.ee
Galerii Kaks Atlantis Rüütli 40, Pärnu.
Lühike jalg 1, Tallinn. Narva mnt 2, Tartu. Tel 447 2404. Rock Café
Tel 738 5485. Tartu mnt. 80d, Tallinn.
Tel 641 8308. Molly Malone’s Tel 681 0878.
Katariina Gild BonBon Mündi 2, Tallinn. ∑ rockcafe.ee
Vene 12, Tallinn. Mere pst 6e, Tallinn. Tel 631 3016.
Tel 661 6080. Tallinn Linnateater
Tel 644 5365. Oscar Lai 23, Tallinn.
Nukupood Bonnie and Clyde Sadama 6, Tallinn.
Tel 665 0800.
Olümpia Hotel, Liivalaia Tel 661 4721.
Raekoja plats 18, Tallinn. ∑ linnateater.ee
33, Tallinn. Tel 682 3000.
Tel 644 3058. Postipoiss
Vanemuine
Bravo Vee 12, Pärnu. Tel 446 4864.
Vanemuise 6, Tartu.
Art and Antiques Hommiku 3, Pärnu.
Tel 444 1847. Scotland Yard Tel 744 0165.
Navitrolla Galerii Mere pst 6e, Tallinn. ∑ vanemuine.ee
Pikk tanav 36, Tallinn. Club Privé Tel 653 5190.
Harju 6, Tallinn. Von Krahl Baar
Tel 631 3716. Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn.
Tel 631 0545. Music, Theatre
Reval Antiik and Dance Tel 626 9090.
Déjà Vu ∑ vonkrahl.ee
Harju 13, Tallinn.
Sauna 1, Tallinn. Café Amigo
Tel 644 0747. Tel 645 0044. Von Krahl Theatre
Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4,
Shifara Art & Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn.
Genialistide Klubi Tallinn. Tel 680 9380.
Antiques ∑ amigo.ee
Tel 626 9090.
Lai 37, Tartu.
Vana-posti 7, Tallinn. ∑ vonkrahl.ee
Tel 5348 5530. Eesti Muusikafestivalid
Tel 644 3536.
Hell Hunt ∑ festivals.ee Folk Festivals
Food and Drink Pikk 39, Tallinn. Estonian Music
Tel 681 8333. Folkloorifestival
Academy ∑ werro.ee
Anneli Viik Illusion Rävala 16, Tallinn.
Pikk 30, Tallinn. Raatuse 97, Tartu. Tel 667 5700. Hiiu Folk Festival
Tel 644 4530. Tel 742 4341. ∑ ema.edu.ee ∑ hiiufolk.ee
Kaubamaja Lime Lounge Kanuti Gildi Saal Narva Historic
Gonsiori 2, Tallinn. Hommiku 17, Pärnu. Pikk 20, Tallinn. Festival
Tel 667 3100. Tel 449 2190. Tel 646 4704. ∑ saal.ee ∑ narvamuseum.ee
120 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
perfectly complement the Price Guide
Tallinn lavishly furnished rooms. Its Prices are based on one night’s stay in
restaurant is outstanding. high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hotel G9 €
B&B Map F1 € under €75
Gonsiori 9, 10117 DK Choice €€ €75 to €150
€€€ over €150
Tel 626 7130 Three Sisters €€€
∑ hotelg9.ee Historic Map E1
Strikingly decorated, decent Pikk 71, 10133 PÄRNU: Ammende Villa €€€
rooms located on the third floor Tel 630 6300 Historic
of an office building that is a ten- ∑ threesistershotel.com Mere puiestee 7, 80010
minute walk from the Old Town The three tall, narrow, 14th- Tel 447 3888
and conveniently close to several century merchants’ houses at ∑ ammende.ee
restaurants, theatres, bars the corner of Pikk and Tolli have In a glorious Art Nouveau house
and casinos. long been a Tallinn landmark. built in the early 1900s, this
Renovated to form a luxury luxurious hotel has features
The Monk’s Bunk € hotel, The Three Sisters offers 23 rooms in authentic period style.
Hostel Map C5 individually furnished rooms
Tatari 1, 10116 and suites. Original features, from SAAREMAA: Linnahotell €€
Tel 636 3924 timber beams to wall frescoes Spa
∑ themonksbunk.com that have been left intact, add Lasteala, Kuressaare, 93819
Located just 5 minutes outside considerable charm. Tel 453 1888
the Old Town, this smart hostel ∑ linnahotell.com
with a friendly buzz has a bar Despite its rather minimalist
and plenty of social areas Von Stackelberg €€€ exterior, Linnhotell offers neat
including some that are used Luxury Map F1 and comfortable rooms. Just off
to project films. Toompuiestee 23, 10137 the town's historic centre.
Tel 660 0700
Old House Guesthouse ∑ vonstackelberghotel.com SAAREMAA: Georg Ots
and Hostel € Once the residence of a Baltic Spa Hotel €€€
B&B Map E2 baron; has warm and stylish Spa
Uus 26, 10111 rooms that are equipped with Tori 2, Kuressaare, 93810
Tel 641 1281 state-of-the-art facilities. Tel 455 0000
∑ olhouse.ee ∑ gospa.ee
Excellent-value accommodation Warm and intimate hotel known
located in the Old Town with nice for its excellent swimming pool
rooms and a communal kitchen. Rest of Estonia and spa.
Dorm-style accommodation for
backpackers is also available, PÄRNU: Rannahotell €€ TARTU: Villa Margaretha €
just a few doors away on the Resort B&B
same street. Ranna puiestee 5, 80010 Tähe 11/13, 50108
Tel 443 2918 Tel 731 1820
Merchant’s House Hotel €€ ∑ rannahotell.ee ∑ margaretha.ee
Design Map C3 A modernist masterpiece Gorgeous Art Nouveau villa
Dunkri 4/6, 10123 dating from 1937, the hotel offers with atmospheric rooms, many
Tel 697 7500 stylish rooms with balconys in a with original Art Nouveau-style
∑ merchantshousehotel.com beachside building that looks like decoration. A contemporary
A chic, medieval-meets-modern an ocean liner. annexe has split-level suites.
hotel in a tastefully adapted
14th-century building, just off TARTU: Pallas €€
the Town Hall Square. Design
Riia 4, 51004
Pirita Cloister Guesthouse €€ Tel 730 1200
B&B Map F1 ∑ pallas.ee
Merivälja tee 18, 11911 Rooms with big windows and
Tel 605 5000 great city views, each decorated
∑ piritaklooster.ee in the style of an artist who
Close to Pirita’s long, sandy beach passed through Tartu's famous
and next to the ruins of medieval Pallas Art School.
Pirita Abbey, this is an award-
winning modern guesthouse. TARTU: London €€€
Luxury
Schlössle €€€ Rüütli 9, 51007
Luxury Map D3 Tel 730 5555
Pühavaimu 13/15, 10123 ∑ londonhotel.ee
Tel 699 7700 With classically decorated
∑ schloesslehotel.com rooms and attentive staff right
The splendid medieval-style in the centre of town, this is
interiors of this elegant hotel Flags adorn the entrance of the among Tartu’s best business-
in the heart of the Old Town, Schlössle in Tallinn class hotels.
For map references see pp102–103
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 121
PÄRNU: Steffani €
DK Choice Italian
Bordoo €€€ Nikolai 24, 80011
French Map E1 Tel 443 1170
Pikk 71, 10133 Eternally popular pizzeria on
Tel 630 6300 the route from Old Town to the
Located in the luxurious Three beach, serving a big choice
Sisters Hotel, Bordoo oozes of thin-crust pies alongside
class. The seasonally-changing, pastas, salads and a few Mexican-
primarily French menu, includes inspired dishes. Gets busy.
classic meat and seafood mains
in addition to the multi-course SAAREMAA: Veski €€
tasting menus. Dine in the Estonian
charming summer courtyard. Pärna 19, Kuressaare, 93814 Diners enjoying a hearty meal in
Tel 453 3776 Olde Hansa, Tallinn
NORTH EASTERN EUROPE 123
MOSCOW AND
ST PETERSBURG
From her 12th-century origins as an obscure defensive outpost, Moscow has
come to govern one sixth of the globe. The story of her rise is laced with glory
and setbacks, including the two centuries when St Petersburg was the capital
of Russia and Moscow lived as a dignified dowager. Today, both cities symbolize
the “New Russia”.
Onega
M18
St Petersburg
Volkhov Belozersk
Kolpino
M11 Gatchina
Cherepovets
Vologda
M20
Novgorod
M1
0 Yaroslavl
lga
0 km 100
Vo
Tver
0 miles 100
8
M
Key
M9
Motorway Zelenograd Vladimir
M7
Major road MOSCOW Elektrostal
Railway
M1
M5
M2
1 Moscow
With a population of over ten million, the Russian
capital is now a place where past and present combine
to captivate and charm. Most of Moscow’s sights are
situated in the city centre, within the area bounded by
the Garden Ring (Sadovoye Koltso) and the Boulevard
Ring (Bulvarnoye Koltso). From the gleaming onion
domes of its churches to the graves of Soviet heroes, Sixteenth-century frescoes in the Cathedral
reminders of the city’s past appear in almost every of the Assumption
corner. At the heart of the city lies the Kremlin – a source
BOL
of wealth and power that has dominated Russian life for NIKI
TSKA
NI
MA
YA
KI
over 800 years – comprising an impressive complex of
LK
ISLOV S K I Y P E
TS
Moscow
buildings from the 15th to the 20th centuries.
KI
Conservatory
ER
Y
IY P
BU L V A R
VSK
R
K IS LO
Sights at a Glance House of
Friendship
BOL
1 Trinity Tower
U L VO ZD VIZ
2 Ivan the Great Bell Tower Arbatskaya HE NK A
ULITSA NOVYY ARBAT Shchusev
3 Cathedral of the Assumption ARBATSKAYA Museum of
BOLS
PLOSHCHAD
Architecture
4 Cathedral of the Archangel T
HOY
KAY A UL BA
RS
AYA P L
ITO AR
G O G O LE
OZ
NIKO
U
6 State Armoury PE R
Museum AM
OY
SKOV
SPA
SMOLENSK
NN EN
OV SK IY
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7 Resurrection Gate KA
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8 Red Square
OV
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9 Lenin Mausoleum KA R
MA UL
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0 St Basil’s Cathedral pp134–5 Bely House- AT
BU L
RB OK
OA EUL
PE R
Museum
RIV PER HEK
q GUM K
SEV
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P LO T
SIVT
S TA R O KO N Y U S HE N N Y Y P E R
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Smolenskaya
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Museum of
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V SK IY PE
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Private Collections
DE
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SEVSKIY PER
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Kropotkinskaya V
P E R EU LO K
LASE
GAGAR K
U
P E R E U LO
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L V
Redeemer
SMO
PL
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PRECHISTENSKIE
BO
VOROTA
y Tretyakov Gallery pp140–41
RE
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NK YM
UL
HIST
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u Gorky Park K IY
IS ON
OK
K PE H O
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SKIY
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PE Y Y
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BO
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BUL
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Getting Around
Moscow’s centre is quite spread out and not
easily covered on foot. However, the area
within the Boulevard Ring contains many
sights and is good for walking. The city’s vast
metro network is the most reliable way of
getting around, and trolleybuses are a good
option in the city centre. Taxis are the most
flexible, but the most expensive way of
Ivan the Great Bell Tower, with the Tsar Bell in getting around. River cruises are pleasant
the foreground and pass several major sites of interest.
Greater Moscow
Leningradskiy
Kazanskiy
Belorusskiy EVA
R D RI N G
UL
BO
Kurskiy
Kievskiy
Andronovka
G
R
IN
PE Bolshoy R
IY
RS
K Theatre GAR D E N
GE
ER R
M
NYY P
KA
TRAL
TEATRALNAYA
PLOSHCHAD Paveletskiy
TEA
E
R Hotel Lubyanka 0 kilometers 5
P Teatralnaya Metropol
Y
SA
PLOSHCHAD
Y
0 miles 5
K
REVOLYUTSII
TN
IT
LO
Ploshchad
UL
U
ZE
RE
PE
AY
Ryad
G
History
K
IY
LS
of Moscow
SK
MANEZHNAYA Museum
IT
N
IK
ST
Kazan
N
UL Monastery of
I T University
A
Historical Cathedral the Epiphany
IP
RA
SA A
Museum K
AT
NIK
IN
YA
EV
IL
R
OLS
PE
SK
PL
KRASNAYA S A
ALEXANDER IT
RY
OV
IY
KIY
GARDENS PLOSHCHAD L
BN
AN
U
PE
PL VARVARSKIE
YY
ROM
UL
PE
VOROTA
R
Manège Church of
R
PE
UL
SO
Arsenal Saviour's Gate in Nikitniki
R V AR K A
LY
Biblioteka VA
IY
UL
R
A
Presidential
im Lenina
PE
ORODSK
NK
Chambers of
YY
KREMLIN
Old
Aleksandrovskiy
A
D
the Romanov
LN
Sad English
PROEZ
TE
Boyars
BOL MOSKVORE
YA
Court
Borovitskaya I TA
KITAYG
HNA
SP
Great
VO
Kremlin
Palace
NEZ
M O S K VO R E T S K A
Pashkov YA N
NAB AB E
MA
House Mosk
va R EZ
YA HN
TSKIY MOST
KA AY
S A
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L EV NAY
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BO
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A BA LC
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PLOSHCHAD N A ER
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BE AY
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os
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ITSK
1-Y
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M
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UL
HI N
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ST
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Novokuznetskaya
AR
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Tretyakovskaya
EVS
ON
Church of the
KIY
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Consolation
NY
KL IMENT O VS K I Y
P ER
of All Sorrows P E R E U LO K
Y P
POL
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N
PER
SKIY
HEV
KA
PYZ
0 yards 500
Key
Street-by-Street area: see pp128–9
Street-by-Street area: see pp136–7
Major sight / Place of interest
The atmospheric ulitsa Arbat, the heart of Old Arbat Pedestrian street
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Key
Suggested route
Terem
Palace has a
6 . State Armoury chequered roof and
The State Armoury was designed to complement the 11 golden cupolas
Great Kremlin Palace. Constructed in the 19th century, it topped by crosses – the
is now a museum. It houses the imperial collections of only visible part of this
decorative and applied art and the State Diamond Fund. hidden building.
For hotels and restaurants see p164 and p165
MOSCOW 129
Patriarch’s Palace
An imposing palace, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
rebuilt for Patriarch Nikon
Practical Information
between 1652 and 1666,
Map D2 & D3. Tel 679 0349.
now houses the Museum
Open 10am–5pm Fri–Wed. &
of 17th-century Life and
tickets sold at the Kremlin
Applied Art.
entrance and separately at some
sights. 8 English (book in
advance on 697 4115). 7
complex, but not buildings. =
∑ kreml.ru
Transport
q Biblioteka imeni Lenina,
Borovitskaya. @ 6, К.
v 1, 2, 12, 33.
4 Cathedral of
the Archangel
Архангельский собор
ArkhanAelskiy sobor
The Kremlin. Map D3. &
7 Resurrection Gate
Воскресенские ворота
Voskresenskie vorota
Krasnaya ploshchad. Map D2.
q Okhotnyy Ryad, Ploshchad
Revolyutsii.
0 St Basil’s Cathedral
Собор Bасилия Блаженного
Sobor Vasiliya Blazhennovo
Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible to mark the capture of the
Mongol stronghold of Kazan in 1552 and completed in 1561, this
cathedral is reputed to have been designed by Postnik Yakovlev.
According to legend, Ivan had him blinded so he could never design
anything as exquisite again. Officially, it was called the Cathedral of
the Intercession since the final siege of Kazan began on the Feast of
the Intercession of the Virgin. However, it gets its popular name from
the “holy fool” Basil the Blessed whose remains are interred here. Its
design was inspired by Russian timber architecture and is a riot of
gables, roofs and domes.
. Domes
Destroyed by fire in 1583,
these multi-faceted onion
domes replaced the original
helmet-shaped cupolas. The
domes have been colourfully
painted since 1670, but at
one time St Basil’s was white
with golden domes.
Chapel of St Cyprian
This is one of eight main
chapels commemorating
the campaigns of Ivan
the Terrible against the
town of Kazan, east of
Moscow. It is dedicated
to St Cyprian.
Transport
q Okhotnyy Ryad, Ploschad
Revolyutsii. @ 25. v 8.
. Main Iconostasis
The Baroque-style iconostasis
in the Central Chapel
of the Intercession dates
from the 19th century.
However, some of the
icons inside were painted
much earlier.
KEY
Y
Novyy Arbat D
BO
O
SP
SL
Y
ASPE
O
N
EN
O PR E
M
KA
E SU L O
K
LO
KO K
U K
e . Pushkin House-Museum RE LO
VS
PE U
The poet Alexander Pushkin lived RE
KI
here just after his marriage in 1831. PE
IY
Y
The interior of the house has been SK
carefully renovated. IT
AN
RM
KA
Ulitsa Arbat
DE ER
P
Bely House-Museum
Influential polymath Andrei
Bely (1880–1934), best
known for a novel, Petersburg,
and his memoirs, lived in this
flat for the first 26 years of his life. Now a The Foreign Ministry
museum, its exhibits include this photo is one of the seven
of Bely with his wife and his fascinating Stalinist-Gothic sky-
Symbolist illustration, Line of Life. scrapers in Moscow.
For hotels and restaurants see p164 and p165
MOSCOW 137
Spasopeskovskiy
Pereulok
On one side of this lane
is the 18th-century Church
of the Saviour on the Sands.
It overlooks a secluded
square and garden, a
reminder that the Arbat
was at that time a
genteel suburb.
BO
LS
HO
Y
. Skryabin House-Museum
NI REU
PE
K O LO
AT
RB
A The Vakhtangov Theatre was
A
KA
Pre-Revolution apartments,
designed for wealthy
UL
sculptures of knights.
TN
IKO
Pushkin
Museum of
V P
0 metres 100
Fine Arts
ER
0 yards 100
EUL
OK
Herzen House-Museum
was the home of the
radical writer Aleksandr
Herzen from 1843 w Melnikov House
to 1846. Built in the 1920s by Constructivist
architect Konstantin Melnikov, who
lived here until his death in 1974,
this unusual cylindrical house is
Key now dwarfed by the apartments
Suggested route on ulitsa Arbat
138 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
yTretyakov
Gallery
Третьяковскyя yалерея
TretyakovskayA GAlereya
See pp140–41.
u Gorky Park
Cathedral of Christ the Redeemer, rebuilt in Парк культуры и отдыха
the 1990s at huge cost имени М. Горyкоrо
Park Kultury i otAykha imeni
rebuilding project was contro- M. Gorkovo Five-tier iconostasis in the cathedral of
versial from the start, on the Novodevichiy Convent
Krymskiy val 9. Map F1. Tel 237 0707.
grounds of taste and cost. In q Park Kultury, Oktyabrskaya.
1995 a presidential decree Open 10am–10pm daily (pleasure park include fairground rides,
declared that no public money open May–Oct). & 7 - woodland walks, boating lakes,
should be spent on it. Funds a 10,000-seat outdoor theatre
were to come via donations Moscow’s most famous park and, in winter, an ice rink.
from the public, the Russian is named in honour of the
Church and foreign donors. writer Maxim Gorky (1868–
Much of the US$200 million 1936) and extends for more i Novodevichiy
spent, however, came from the than 120 ha (297 acres) along Convent
state budget, at a time when the Moskva river. Opened in Новодевичий мyнастырь
Muscovites were suffering 1928 as the Park of Culture Novodevichiy monAstyr
extreme poverty. and Rest, it incorporates the
Novodevichiy proezd 1. Map E1.
The original cathedral was Golitsyn Gardens, laid out by Tel 246 8526. q Sportivnaya. @ 64,
built to commemorate the Matvey Kazakov (1738–1812) 132. 5, 15. Open 10am–5:30pm
deliverance of Moscow from in the late 18th century, and a Wed–Mon. & 8 book in advance.
Napoleon’s Grande Armée in 19th-century pleasure park. 7 grounds only. 5 =
1812. Begun in 1839, but not The park was immortalized in
completed until 1883, it was the opening scenes of Michael Considered one of the most
designed by Konstantin Ton, Apted’s film Gorky Park. However, beautiful of the semi-circle of
who also designed the State due to the tense political climate fortified religious institutions
Armoury. The cathedral was of 1983, the film was shot in to the south of Moscow,
Moscow’s tallest building then, Finland. During the Soviet era, Novodevichiy Convent was
the gilded dome rising to a loudspeakers across the park founded by Basil III in 1524
height of 103 m (338 ft) and delivered speeches by Communist to commemorate the capture
dominating the skyline for leaders. Today, the highlights of Smolensk from the
Lithuanians. The Cathedral
of the Virgin of Smolensk was
built at this time though the
five-tier iconostasis, frescoes
and onion domes were added
in the 17th century. Most of
the other buildings were also
added in the late 17th century
by Peter the Great’s half-sister,
the Regent Sophia. In 1812,
Napoleon’s troops tried to
blow up the convent but,
according to one story, it was
saved by the nuns. The ceme-
tery here is the final resting
place of several famous
Russians, such as the writer Nikolai
Gogol and the composer
Outdoor ice-skating in Gorky Park, a popular activity in the winter months Dmitry Shostakovich.
140 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
y Tretyakov Gallery
Третьяковская галерея
Tretyakovskaya galereya
The gallery was founded in 1856 by Pavel Tretyakov, a wealthy Stairs down to
merchant, who presented it to the city in 1892. It continued to expand ground floor
after the Revolution as numerous private collections were nationali-
zed. Today it has the largest collection of Russian art in the world –
with more than 100,000 works on display. The building has a striking
façade, with a bas-relief of St George and the dragon at its centre. A
new wing was added in 1930. Many of the early 20th-century works
are now in the New Tretyakov Gallery, an annexe to the main building.
First floor
34
The Appearance of
33
Christ to the People is
by the 19th-century 18
Romantic artist,
32
Aleksandr Ivanov.
17
31
21
19
16
22
20
30
24
15
12
25
14
23
10
13
45
6
46
47
Stairs from
basement Portraits by Ilya Repin
(1844–1930)
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Lavrushinskiy Pereulok 10.
Map E4.
Tel 951 1362.
Open 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 Eng. 9 Eng. 7
0 - = ∑ tretyakov
gallery.ru
Transport
q Tretyakovskaya. @ 6, K, 25.
v 1, 4, 8, 33, 62.
Religious Procession in Kursk Province (1880–83)
Ilya Repin, a socially committed artist, painted this to contrast
the religious devotion of the peasants with the cold hypocrisy
of the rich.
The Morning of
the Execution
Ground of the Streltsy is
floor by Vasiliy Surikov.
29
28
39
60
He dedicated it to the
43
monastery’s founder,
54
62
St Sergius of Radonezh.
53
55
59
56
52
51
57
50
58
Gallery Guide
49
Russian
jewellery Key
18th and early 19th centuries
Main Façade Second half of the 19th century
The gallery’s façade was Late 19th and early 20th centuries
designed in 1902 by Viktor
Vasnetsov. An example of Drawings and watercolours of the
18th–20th centuries
the Russian-Revival style, it
has a frieze inspired by Icons and jewellery
medieval manuscripts. Non-exhibition space
142 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
KA
ME
NN
St Petersburg
OO
2
KR
O
NV
ST
ERK
RO
Once Russia’s capital and known as its “Window on
SKA
VS
A
M IR
UL
the West”, St Petersburg was built on the marshy lands
KI
INA
YA
POTK
KRO O VA
Y
TSA OSK
ULI
ULI
where the Neva river joins the Gulf of Finland. With UL V
SA
MA
LA
PR
TSA
BLIN
YA
a population of just under five million, it is Russia’s
ULIT
SKA
KT
SAM
E
YA
second largest city. The southern bank of the Neva, AR O
SP Gorkovskaya
U
KI
PR
L
NA
Palace Embankment, is lined with glorious palaces.
CH UL LIZ
AY
P E T R O G R A D S K AYA
To the east is Gostinyy Dvor, the commercial hub of the KIN Y
Y
STORONA
KI
OY
KS
city, with bars and restaurants lining Nevskiy Prospekt.
ER
A LE KSA N D ROVSKIY
K RONV
To the southwest lies Sennaya Ploshchad, combining P A RK
NA
B
ER
YA
tree-lined canals with decrepit reminders of the
P
Z OO A
NSKIY
K
S
SA D K
R
19th-century life decribed in Fyodor Dostoevsky’s E
MYTNI
V
N
O
novels. Vasilevskiy Ostrov, the city’s largest island,
R
K
celebrates St Petersburg’s naval heritage with its PROSPEKT
DOBROLYUBOVA
M
scholarly institutions and museums. Petrogradskaya, to Y
B
A
TN
N
YA
IN
the north, is dominated by the Peter and Paul Fortress. K A
S a
Y MO ST
v
Mal e
NA Neva N
BE
BIRZHEVO
REZ
KT HNA
PE YA Rostral
OS
PE
MAKARO
PR VA Columns
RE
B IR L I
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NI
UL
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D
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RE
KA
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PLOSHCHAD
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Vasileostrovskaya HEVOY
A
B
ME
RZ
TS
BI NA
2-
ND
KA
Naval
YA
A
VA S I L E V S K I Y Museum
EL
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4-Y
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VA
A
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DV
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D
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LIN
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REZHN AYA REK
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LS B B DVORTSOVAYA
BO
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NA NA PLOSHCHAD
I
PLOSHCHAD YA N A B E REZHN
SHEVCHENKO Y A a KA
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KA v YS
TS e TE
TE N AL
SI
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V NEV
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U B AD SKIY
Admiralteyskaya PRO
PR SPEK
BLA
PLOSHCHAD KI
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G
UL
Lieutenant YS
OV
NA
MO
U
IR A
KA Cathedral of
ZH AY
CH
M
ST
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I
EN
YK
BE Y OR O
KI M
SKIY
M of Kazan
O
A
NA ITSYS AY
A
YA IM
UL DE AL K
YA AR R M HA YA
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NA G V LVA LS NA
A ER O BO EZH
AY
L UL BE R
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GL SK
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SA
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PLOSHCHAD C
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TRUDA SA UL
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PROSPEKT
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KA M O Y KI KA
TSA
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IST
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BO BE BR SA Sadovaya
L IT
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KA
SA NS
A
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A ZH
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BO AYA
G
TEATRALNAYA KAN PLOSHCHAD
NALA GRI
HN ALA Sennaya
PLOSHCHAD
BE Z
Ploshchad
KA RE
GRIB
Getting Around OED
MOSK OVSKIY PR
O VA
VOZNESENSKIY
U
A
L
N
EF
Spasskaya
A
IM
O
GLIN
VA
H
KORSAKO VA
EZ
ER
-
VO
N AB
S KO
along its waterways. Metro lines, tram, PR
RIM
YUSUPOVSKIY
bus and trolleybus routes radiate out from
PER BOYTS O
St Nicholas’ SAD
Cathedral
Nevskiy Prospekt, criss-crossing the city UL KI
AY
A AN
with a network of rail tracks. These can OV FO
NT
VA
D
SA KI
be crowded during the day, particularly R E anka
t
A Fo n
at rush hour, but are still the best way to HN
AY
EZ
make short trips around the city centre. B ER
NA
The metro is used mainly to get to and
from the outer districts of the city.
Sights at a Glance
1 Peter and Paul Fortress 9 The Hermitage pp148–55
pp140–41 0 Summer Palace
2 Menshikov Palace q Summer Garden
P E TR O G R
SA SAMPSONIEVSKIY
3 The Bronze Horseman w Pushkin House-Museum
LIT
P O SA
DS K AY
A
U MOST
4 The Admiralty e Church on Spilled Blood
5 St Isaac’s Cathedral r Russian Museum
AD
A
EV
SH
SKA
YB
Y
UL 6 St Isaac’s Square t Arts Square
KU A
YA
AY
U
L OV Cruiser 7 Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa y Nevskiy Prospekt
PENK
Aurora
AB
Trinity
Bridge
ITS
KIY
MO
VA
ZO
ST
U TU
BK
NA
SUVOROVSKAYA Key
PLOSHCHAD
Fontan
NA
L ETNI V
Major sight / Place of interest
B LE
S AD
ka
A
BYA
TS Pedestrian street
LI
U Field of
ZHE
Mars
VO
KA N
ALA
KONYUSHENNAYA
PLOSHCHAD
O VA
Engineer’s
Castle
OYED
KLE
N
OVA
GRIB
INZHEN
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ERNAY
A ULI
TSA
ULIT
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SA
KANA
Font
Nevskiy
A UL
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Prospekt
LO
anka
ITALY
KARAVANNAY
MIKHAY
A NSKA
YA
UL
NAB
NEV
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PRO
Gostinyy SPE
KT
Gostinyy Dvor
Dvor
A TSENTRALNY
I
UL
NK
ITS
TS
A
LI RAYON
A
U
T
LO
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ROSS EVO
M
O
VA
O
N
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O DC
D VA
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A
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O A
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RG N
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U
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LO
K E
R
E
B
A
N
A
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
KEY
Transport
q Gorkovskaya.
St Peter’s Gate
Completed in 1718, this ornate
Baroque structure features the
Romanov double eagle with
an emblem of St George and
the dragon.
Kamennoostrovskiy Prospekt,
Gorkovskaya Metro and
Trinity Bridge
Engineer’s House
This building, dating from 1748–9,
houses temporary exhibitions of artifacts
used in everyday life in St Petersburg
before the Revolution.
146 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
5 St Isaac’s Cathedral
Ochre-painted southern façade of Prince Menshikov’s 18th-century palace Исаакиевский собор
Isaakievskiy sobor
2 Menshikov Palace was unveiled in Decembrists’
Isaakievskaya ploshchad 4. Map C4.
Меншиковский дворец Square (Ploshchad Dekabristov)
Tel (812) 315 9732. @ 3, 10, 22, 27,
Menshikovskiy dvorets in 1782, as a tribute from K-169, K-190, K-289. 5, 22.
Catherine the Great. The French Open May–Sep: 10am–11pm Thu–
Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 15.
sculptor, Etienne Falconet, Tue; Oct–Apr: 11am–7pm.
Map B3. Tel (812) 323 1112. @ 7,
47, K-47, K-187, K-209, K-298. v 6.
spent over 12 years over-
1, 11. Open 10:30am-6pm seeing the project. The One of the world’s largest
Tue–Sat, 10:30am–5pm Sun. pedestal weighs 1,625 cathedrals, St Isaac’s, was
& 8 compulsory (English, French, tonnes (1,791 tons) and designed in 1818 by
German available). was hewn from a block architect Auguste de
of granite, which was Montferrand. The
Completed in 1720, this hauled from the Gulf engineering opera-
Baroque palace was one of of Finland. It bears tion needed to erect
the earliest stone buildings in the inscription the cathedral was,
St Petersburg. It was designed “To Peter I from The Bronze Horseman, Tribute at the time, of an
by Giovanni Fontana and Catherine II” in to Peter the Great almost unprece-
Gottfried Schädel for Prince Latin and Russian. A dented scale.
Menshikov, friend and advisor serpent, beneath the horse’s Opened in 1858, it was desig-
to Peter the Great. Menshikov hooves, symbolizes treason. nated a museum of atheism
entertained here, often on during the Soviet era. Officially
behalf of Peter the Great, who still a museum today, the
adopted the palace as a pied- 4 The Admiralty church is filled with hundreds
à-terre. Now a branch of the Адмиралтейство of impressive 19th century
Hermitage (see pp148–55), Admiralteystvo works of art. The gilded dome,
it houses exhibitions on early adorned with angels, offers
Admiralteyskaya naberezhnaya 2.
18th-century Russian culture, views across the city. Inside,
Map C3. @ 7, 10, K-187, K-209.
revealing the extent to which 1, 5, 7, 10, 17, 22.
ringed by gilded stucco moul-
the court was influenced by dings and white marble, the
Western tastes. Peter and Built as a shipyard between ceiling is decorated with a
Menshikov often received 1704 and 1711 by Peter the painting of the Virgin in Majesty
guests in the Walnut Study. Great, the Admiralty’s purpose (1847) by Karl Bryullov. The
The Great Hall decorated in was to gain access to the sea iconostasis has three rows of
gold is where balls and ban- icons that surround the royal
quets were held. Upstairs, doors. Pyotr Klodt’s sculpture,
rooms are decorated with Christ in Majesty (1859), rests
17th- century Dutch engrav- above the doors, while splendid
ings of Leyden, Utrecht malachite and lapis lazuli
and Krakow. columns frame the
pretty iconostasis.
3The Bronze
Horseman 6 St Isaac’s Square
Медный Всадник Исаакиевская площадь
Mednyy Vsadnik Isaakievskaya ploshchad
Ploshchad Dekabristov. Map B3. Map C4. @ 3, 10, 22, 27. 5, 22.
@ 3, 10, 22, 27. 5, 22.
Dominated by St Isaac’s
The statue of Peter the Great, Cathedral, this square was
known as The Bronze Horseman Tower and spire of the Admiralty, built created during the reign of
after Pushkin’s famous poem, between 1806 and 1823 Nicholas I (r. 1825–55), although
For hotels and restaurants see p164 and p165
ST PETERSBURG 147
7Malaya
Morskaya Ulitsa
Малая Морская улица
Malaya morskaya ulitsa
Map C4. @ 3, 10, 22, 27. 5, 22.
From 1902 to 1993 Malaya
Morskaya ulitsa was named
ulitsa Gogolya after the great
writer, Nikolai Gogol, who lived
at No. 17 between 1833 and
1836. It was here that Gogol
wrote The Diary of a Madman
and The Nose, two biting satires The Alexander Column and the General Staff Building, Palace Square
148 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
9 The Hermitage
Эрмитаж
Ermitazh
One of the most famous museums in the world, the Hermitage
occupies a grand ensemble of buildings. The most impressive is the
Winter Palace (see pp154–5), to which Catherine the Great added
the more intimate Small Hermitage. In the 18th century, she built the
Large Hermitage to house her collection of art. The Theatre was built
in the 18th century, the New Hermitage between 1839 and 1851. The
New and Large Hermitages were opened by Nicholas I in 1852 as a
museum. From 1918 to 1939 the Winter Palace was incorporated into
the museum. The Neo-Classical General Staff Building was added in
the late 1990s. Mid- and late-19th-century collections are in the
process of being moved there.
Atlantes
Ten 5-m (16-ft) tall granite
Atlantes hold up what used to
be the public entrance to the
Hermitage museum from 1852
until after the Revolution.
KEY
Hanging Gardens
This unusual, raised garden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
is decorated with statues
Practical Information
and fountains. During the
Dvortsovaya ploschad 2.
Siege of Leningrad in 1941,
Map C3. Tel (812) 710 9079.
Hermitage curators grew
Open 10:30am–6pm Tue–Sat,
vegetables here.
10:30am–5pm Sun. (last
admission one hour before
closing). & 8 English
(571 8446). 7 - =
Transport
@ 7, 10, 24, K-187, K-209, K-252.
1, 7, 10.
Main entrance
via courtyard
Winter Palace Façade
Rastrelli embellished the
palace façades with 400
columns and 16 different
window designs.
General
Staff
Building
. Pavilion Hall
Andrey Stakenschneider’s
white marble and gold hall
replaced Catherine’s original
interior. The hall houses . Winter Palace State Rooms
Englishman James Cox’s The tsars spared no expense in
famous Peacock Clock, decorating rooms such as the Hall
which was once owned of St George. These rooms were not
by Catherine’s secret lover, intended for private life, but were
Prince Grigory Potemkin. used for state ceremonies.
150 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
First floor
Ground floor
The Litta Madonna (c. 1491)
One of two works by Leonardo da
Vinci here, this was much admired European Gold
by his contemporaries. Collection
Gallery Guide
Individual visitors enter via
Palace Square, then cross the main
courtyard; group tours use other
entrances by arrangement. Visitors
can start with the interiors of the
Winter Palace State Rooms on the first
floor to get an overview of the museum.
For 19th- and 20th-century European Art,
it is best to use either of the staircases on
the Palace Square side of the Winter
Palace. However, some collections
may move.
The Hall of
Twenty Columns
Main
entrance
. Abraham’s
Sacrifice (1635)
In the 1630s Rembrandt
painted religious scenes
Ticket Office
in a High Baroque style,
using dramatic and
striking gestures rather
than detail to convey Entrance for tours and
his message. guided groups
For hotels and restaurants see p164 and p165
ST PETERSBURG 151
. Ea Haere Ia Oe (1893)
This is one of the first paintings by
Paul Gauguin after he had left France
for Tahiti. His desire to escape
convention and artificiality found
Stairs to expression in his innovative use of
first floor primitive art as inspiration.
Stairs to
Numismatic
Collection
Stairs to
second floor
. La Danse (1910)
Henri Matisse used strong tones of three colours –
blue, green and red – to heighten the drama and
Stairs to second concentration of the figures, totally lost in their dance.
floor, Numismatic
Collection only
Key to Floorplan
Prehistoric: 11–24, 26, 33
Classical: 102, 107–117, 121,
127–131
Numismatic Collection: 398–400
Oriental: 34–47, 55–66, 69, 100,
351–371, 381–397
Russian: 147–153, 155–189, 190–198,
204, 260, 269–271, 282, 304–307
Italian and Spanish: 207–223,
226–242
Flemish, Dutch and German: 243,
Greek and 245–254, 258–259, 261–268
Oriental Gold French and English: 272–281,
Collection Statue of Voltaire (1781) 283–287, 290–302
Catherine the Great corresponded 19th- and 20th-century
The Winter Palace (see with Voltaire for over 15 years. She European: 314–325, 328–350
pp154–5) State Rooms commissioned a marble statue by
Temporary exhibition space
contain magnificent Jean-Antoine Houdon, in which
Russian and European the French writer is dressed as a Non-exhibition space
objets d’art. Greek philosopher. No access
152 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
. Malachite Room
Over 2 tonnes (2 tons)
. Main Staircase of ornamental stone
This vast, sweeping staircase was was used in this room,
Rastrelli’s masterpiece. It was from which is decorated with
here that the imperial family watched malachite columns
the Epiphany ceremony of baptism and vases, gilded doors
in the Neva river, which celebrated and ceiling, and rich
Christ’s baptism in the Jordan. parquet flooring.
For hotels and restaurants see p164 and p165
ST PETERSBURG 155
KEY
1 North façade overlooking the 6 The Armorial Hall, with its vast a display of Western European
Neva river gilded columns, covers over 800 sq m carved gems.
(8,600 sq ft). Hospital beds were set
2 The Nicholas Hall, the q West Wing
largest room in the palace, was up in this cavernous room during
World War I. w The Gothic Library and
always used for the first ball other rooms in the northwest part
of the season. 7 The French Rooms, designed by of the palace were adapted to suit
Bryullov in 1839, house a collection
3 The Field Marshals’ Hall Nicholas II’s bourgeois lifestyle. This
was the reception room where of 18th-century French art. wood-panelled library was created
the devastating fire broke out 8 South façade on by Meltzer in 1894.
in 1837. Palace Square
e The Rotunda connected the
4 The Hall of St George has 9 The White Hall was decorated private apartments on the west side
monolithic columns and wall for the wedding of Alexander II with the state apartments on the
facings of Italian Carrara marble. in 1841. north side.
5 The 1812 Gallery has portraits 0 The Gold Drawing Room was
of Russian military heroes of the created in the 1850s. This room was
Napoleonic Wars, most by English decorated in the 1870s with all-over
artist George Dawe. gilding of walls and ceiling. It houses
156 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
0 Summer Palace
Летний дворец
Letniy dvorets
Naberezhnaya Kutuzova.
Map D2. Tel 314 0374. @ 46, 49.
Open May–Nov: 10am–6pm Wed–
Mon. Closed last Mon of each month.
&8
wPushkin
House-Museum
Музей-квартира А. С.
Пушкина Muzey-kvartira
A.S. Pushkina
Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 12.
Map C3. Tel 571 3531. Open 10:30am–
6pm Wed–Mon. Closed last Fri of
each month. & 8
∑ museumpushkin.ru
y Nevskiy Prospekt
Невский проспект
Nevskiy prospekt
Map C3. q Nevskiy Prospekt,
Gostinyy Dvor.
foyers and some restaurants. Arriving by Sea of the train’s wheels are
These accept credit cards or Arriving by boat can be one changed to fit the wider
phone cards, which are sold in of the most exciting ways to Russian tracks.
most major hotels, restaurants approach St Petersburg. How-
and clubs, but calls are expensive. ever, ferries and cruises operate
Moscow’s Main Post Office irregularly, so it is best to check Travelling by Coach
and St Petersburg’s Westpost with a travel agent for details. It is possible to get to Moscow
and Post International offer Ferries from Scandinavia usually by coach, but it is usually only
ordinary, express, courier and dock at the Maritime Passenger worth it if visitors are travelling
poste restante services. Terminal. Trolleybus No. 10 from a neighbouring country or
and bus No. 7 run from here to are on a tight budget. There are
the centre or, heading in the coach routes to Moscow from
Arriving by Air other direction, to Primorskaya the Czech Republic, Poland,
There is a reasonable choice of metro station. Hungary and Slovakia. Ecolines
flights to Moscow from the UK. Luxury cruise ships from the coaches offer a more affordable
British Airways, Aeroflot and US, London and elsewhere alternative to trains.
Transaero operate direct flights, arrive at St Petersburg’s cargo
while SAS, KLM and Austrian port, 5 km (3 miles) southwest
Airlines run flights via various of the centre. Ships have their Travelling Between
destinations. The international own coaches to carry tourists Moscow and St Petersburg
terminal is Domodedovo. into town and back. The most popular form of
Transaero and Aeroflot operate transport between the two cities is
flights from the US, Australia and the train, of which there are ten or
Canada. Transaero is considered Rail Travel more a day. Prices vary according
a good alternative to Aeroflot. Rail is a relatively inexpensive to the class of the train – the Red
Direct flights from the UK way to travel within Russia. Arrow being the most expensive –
to St Petersburg run daily on Moscow can be reached by and the choice of seat.
British Airways and three days train from Paris, Brussels, Berlin Regular commercial flights
a week on Rossiya, while those and several other European run by Aeroflot, Rossiya and
from Ireland, Canada, South capitals, while St Petersburg is Transaero also connect the two
Africa, Australasia and the US connected to Moscow, Helsinki cities. Prices are modest and
are limited. The modernized and London. Travellers should tickets are available from the
international Pulkovo Airport, be prepared for a lengthy wait airport or the Central Air
meets international standards. at the Russian border while all Communication Agency.
DIRECTORY
Documentation New Zealand International Clinic Domodedovo
∑ nzembassy.com MEDSI Tel (495) 933 6666.
∑ petersburgcity.com
Tel (495) 933 7700. KLM
United Kingdom
OVIR ∑ ukinrussia.fco.gov. Medem ∑ klm.com
Tel (499) 238 6400. ∑ medem.ru Pulkovo Airport
uk/en
∑ pulkovoairport.ru
Visitor United States Communications
Information ∑ usembassy.ru Rossiya
Main Post Office Tel (812) 647 0647.
DenRus ∑ rossiya-airlines.com
Emergency Myasnitskaya ulitsa 26,
∑ denrus.ru
Numbers Moscow. SAS
MIR Travel Company Tel (495) 624 0250. ∑ sas-airlines.com
Tel (812) 325 2595. Ambulance
Tel 03, 112. Post International Transaero
∑ mir-travel.com ∑ transaero.ru
Tel (812) 309 0990.
VisitRussia.com Ltd. Fire
Tel 01, 112. Westpost Arriving by Sea
∑ visitrussia.com
Nevskiy prospekt 86,
Police St Petersburg. Maritime Passenger
Embassies Tel 02, 112. Terminal
Tel (812) 275 0784.
Australia Tel (812) 322 6052.
∑ russia.embassy. Health and Arriving by Air
Security Rail Travel
gov.au Aeroflot
∑ aeroflot.ru ∑ rzd.ru
Canada Euromed
∑ canadainternational. Tel (812) 327 0301. Austrian Airlines Travelling by
gc.ca/russia-russie/ ∑ aua.com Coach
European Medical
Ireland Centre British Airways Ecolines
∑ embassyofireland.ru Tel (495) 933 6655. ∑ britishairways.com ∑ ecolines.ru
162 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE
contemporary Russian writers, punk bands. The Great Hall of performed at the Mikhailovsky
while performances at the the Philharmonia, the Small Theatre. The Mariinskiy Theatre
Gypsy Theatre consist of gypsy Hall of the Philharmonia and the is the epitome of the best in
dancing and singing. Academic Capella are the historic Russian ballet and opera while
In St Petersburg, gig venues venues that are used for classical the Alexandriinskiy Theatre
include Pyatnitsa, which features concerts. Opera and ballet are is the oldest in Russia.
DIRECTORY
Markets Serebryaniy Ryad Karma Bar Great Hall of the
Arbat 18, Moscow. Pushechnaya ul 3, Moscow. Philharmonia
Izmaylovo Market Tel (495) 691 7308. Tel (495) 624 5633. Mikhaylovskaya ul 2,
Izmaylovskoe Shosse, St Petersburg.
Moscow. S.P.A.S. Kult
Tel (812) 710 4290.
Naberezhnaya Reki Moyki Ul Yauzskaya 5, Moscow.
Handicrafts 93, St Petersburg. Tel (495) 917 5706. Gypsy Theatre
Tel (812) 571 4260. Metro Leningradskiy prospekt
Dom Farfora 32/2, Moscow.
Tertia Ligovskiy prospekt 174.
Leninskiy prospekt 36, Tel (495) 251 8522.
Italyanskaya ul 5, Tel (812) 766 0204.
Moscow.
Tel (499) 995 6023. St Petersburg. Propaganda Lenkom Theatre
Tel (812) 710 5568. Bolshoy Zlatoustinskiy Ul Malaya Dmitrovka 6,
Gostinyy Dvor Moscow.
Union of Artists pereulok 7, Moscow.
Nevskiy prospekt 35, Tel (495) 699 0708.
Bolshaya Morskaya ul 38, Tel (495) 624 5732.
St Petersburg.
Tel (812) 710 5408. St Petersburg. Secret Bar Malyy Theatre
Tel (812) 314 3060. Stoleshnikov pereulok Ul Rubinsteyna 18,
Imperial Porcelain St Petersburg.
6/3, Moscow.
Factory Food and Drink Tel (812) 713 2078.
Tel (495) 921 0750.
151 Obukhovskoy Oborony
prospekt, St Petersburg. Chocolate Museum Soho Rooms Mariinskiy Theatre
Tel (812) 560 8544. Nevskiy prospekt 17, Savvinskaya Teatralnaya pl 1,
St Petersburg. naberezhnaya 12/8, St Petersburg.
Russkiye Uzory Tel (812) 326 4141.
Tel (812) 315 1348. Moscow. Tel (495) 988 7474.
Ul Petrovka 16, Moscow.
Tel (495) 923 1883. Krupskaya Fabrika Tribunal Mikhailovsky Theatre
Ul Vosstaniya 15, Karavannaya ulitsa 26, Pl Iskusstv 1, St Petersburg.
Salon of the Moscow Tel (812) 595 4305.
St Petersburg. St Petersburg.
Cultural Fund
Tel (812) 346 5532. Tel (812) 314 2423. Moscow Arts Theatre
Pyatnitskaya ul 16, Moscow.
Tel (495) 951 3302. Passazh Kamergerskiy Pereulok 3,
Music, Theatre Moscow.
Souvenir Market Nevskiy prospekt 48, and Dance
St Petersburg. Tel (495) 629 8760.
Naberezhnaya Kanala
Griboedova, St Petersburg. Tel (812) 571 1426. A2 Moscow Conservatory
Medikov prospekt 3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ul 13/6,
Sedmoi Kontinent
Art and Antiques St Petersburg. Moscow.
Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ul
Tel (812) 309 9922. Tel (495) 629 9401.
Anna Nova 63, Moscow.
Tel (495) 721 3862. Academic Capella Mossoviet Theatre
Ul Zhukovskovo 28,
Nab Reki Moyki 20, Bolshaya Sadovaya 16,
St Petersburg.
Tel (812) 275 9762.
Nightlife St Petersburg. Moscow. Tel (495) 699 2035.
Tel (812) 314 1058.
Antique Centre Cuba libre Sixteen Tons
Sadovaya 7-9-11, Alexandriinskiy Presnenskiy Val 6, Moscow.
3-ya Sovetskaya ul 36/5,
St Petersburg. Theatre Tel (495) 253 5300.
St Petersburg.
Tel (812) 983 5526. Ploshchad Ostrovskovo 2,
Tel (812) 327 8271. Small Hall of the
St Petersburg.
The Foreign Dorffman Tel (812) 710 4103. Philharmonia
Book Store Taganskaya pl 12/2, Nevskiy prospekt 30,
Moscow. Bolshoy Theatre St Petersburg.
Malaya Nikitskaya ul
Tel (495) 679 8688. Teatralnaya pl 1,
16/5, Moscow. Tel (812) 312 4585.
Tel (495) 250 7317
Tel (495) 290 4082. Fabrique (Moscow). Nab Reki Taganka Theatre
Ivantsarevich Kosmodamianskaya Fontanki 65, Zemlyanoy Val 76, Moscow.
Ul Arbat 4, Moscow. Naberezhnaya 2. Tel (812) 310 9242 (St Tel (495) 915 1015.
Tel (495) 291 7444. Tel (963) 687 8888. Petersburg).
Tchaikovsky Concert
Pushkinskaya 10 Griboedov ESSE Jazz Club Hall
Ligovskiy prospekt 53, Voronezhskaya ul 2A, Pyatnistkaya ulitsa 27/3a, Triumfalnaya ploshchad
St Petersburg. St Petersburg. Moscow. 4/31, Moscow.
Tel (812) 764 5371. Tel (812) 764 4355. Tel (495) 951 6404. Tel (495) 299 3681.
164 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Moscow DK Choice Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Hotel Baltschug high season for a standard double room,
Kempinski inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Business Map E3 under 3,000 rouble
DK Choice Ulitsa Balchug 1 3,000 to 6,500 rouble
over 6,500 rouble
Hotel Metropol Tel (495) 287 2000
Luxury Map E2 ∑ kempinski-moscow.com
Teatralnyy proezd 2 Located by the Moskva river, this Kempinski Hotel
Tel (499) 501 7800 elegant hotel offers magnificent Moika 22
∑ metmos.ru views of the Kremlin and St Basil’s Luxury Map C3
A wonderful example of Cathedral from its rooms on the Naberezhnaya Reki Moyki 22
Style-Moderne, the Metropol riverside. Facilities include a Tel (812) 335 9111
boasts spectacular interiors business centre, spa and beauty ∑ kempinski.com
adorned with mosaics, centre. Taxi services are available Great views of the Hermitage
golden chandeliers and from the hotel’s fleet of luxury cars. from some rooms. The restaurant
stained glass. offers international cuisine.
Indulge in the Turkish bath.
Szczecin
Piła
Poznań
Zielona
Góra
Wrocław
Hradec
Cheb Králové
Prague
České Švýcarsko (see pp262–3), otherwise known as “Bohemian
Plzeň
Switzerland”, in the Czech Republic, is an area of extraordinary CZECH REPUBLIC
sandstone formations, with weathered pillars of rock towering above (see pp222–285)
dense green forests. The landscape is best characterized by Pravčicka Jihlava
Písek
Brána – the largest natural rock bridge in Central Europe.
Brno
Český
Krumlov
VIENNA
(see pp380-391)
Szombathely
Nagykanizsa
View of the Chain Bridge at sunset with Parliament in the background, Budapest, Hungary
INTRODUCING CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE 169
Gdańsk
Krakow (see pp184–99), in southern Poland, has historic
monuments spanning hundreds of years, and has been
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its most impres-
Olsztyn sive building, the Cloth Hall (see p187), dominates the
Main Market Square. Dating from the 16th century,
Bydgoszcz Białystok
Ostrołęka it is a lively example of Renaissance architecture.
Toruń
Łodź
Radom
Kielce
Opole Zamość
Katowice
Tarnów
Kraków
Przemyśl
Ostrava
Olomouc
Žilina Prešov
Tatra Mountains (see pp306–307), the spectacular
SLOVAKIA Košice mountain range on the border of Poland and
(see pp286–319)
Slovakia, are among the highest in Central Europe,
with several peaks above 2,500 m (8,202 ft).
Miskolc
Bratislava
Győr Debrecen
Budapest
HUNGARY Szolnok
(see pp320–379)
Szekszárd 0 km 100
Szeged
Pécs 0 miles 100
POLAND
Located between Russia and Germany, Poland has always been a fiercely
contested land. Released from the Eastern Bloc in 1989, the country is now
developing rapidly, especially the cities of Warsaw, Krakow, Gdańsk and
Wrocław. Monuments attest to a stormy history, but Poland is famed for its
virtues, especially the generosity of its people and the excellence of its vodka.
Exploring Poland
Bordering the Baltic Sea, Poland is one of the largest countries
of Central Europe. Warsaw, its capital, is in the centre of the
country and is an ideal base for visiting other cities, such as
Krakow, the ancient royal capital; Gdańsk, the Hanseatic
city and Poznań, one of the oldest Polish cities. Declared a
World Heritage Site in 1978, Krakow, with a host of historical
monuments, is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.
Key
Motorway
Motorway under construction 0 km 100
Railway
Zygmunt Chapel at Krakow
International border
Cathedral, Krakow
Karlskrona Nynashamn
Baltic RUSSIAN
Sea Gdynia F E DE RAT IO N
Słupsk
Trelleborg, Sopot
Ystad 6
LITHUANIA
1
8
Koszalin Gdańsk
Suwałki
Świnoujście
11
Malbork
51
25 16
61
7
A1
Olsztyn
22 16
Szczecin
10 53
A6
Bydgoszcz ęca 65
Piła Drw Ostrołęka Łomża
a
Białystok
dr
Noteć Toruń
61
7
22 10
O
60
Gorzów 8
5
Bu
19
Wielkopolski g
kr
Włocławek
a
A2 Poznań BELARUS
WARSAW
60
Konin
Rogalin
GERMANY Raczyński A2
A2
Siedlce 2
A1
Palace Biała
Odra
Zielona Góra
Podlaska
17
Kalisz
12 Łodź W
isł
5
a
8
Pilica
11
Sieradz
8 Piotrków Radom Lublin 12
1
4 Trybunalski
Wrocław Warta Chełm
94
7
45
19
Katowice A4
Kraków A4
CZEC H Tarnów
REPU BL I C 12 9 Przemyśl
Bielsko- Krosno UKRAINE
Biała Nowy
Sącz
SLO VA K IA
Sights at a Glance
1 Warsaw pp174–83
2 Krakow pp184–99
3 Wrocław pp200–203
4 Poznań pp204–207
5 Raczyński Palace
6 Toruń pp208–209
7 Malbork
8 Sopot
Traditional house decoration, Warsaw 9 Gdańsk pp210–15
D Z IK
1 Warsaw STAW
KI
M
A
UR
NISKA A
NO
WS
KA
Warsaw is believed to have been founded in the late KI
EG
O
SA
W S
LE
KA R MEL IC K A
T.
castle here overlooking the Vistula river. It became the
DER
D
U
ZAMENHOFA
BO
IS
N
capital of Poland in 1596, making it one of Europe’s
KI
A A
A
EW
ŁOW
youngest capital cities, with a population of nearly two
AW
NAL
MORDE
WA
CHAJA A
YSŁ
NIE
million. Most places of interest are located in the historic LEW
ICZA
AD
PAWI A ŚWI
ĘTO
centre, the geographical heart of the city, which has now JE R SKA
.WŁ
DZIELNA DZIELNA
GEN
OGRÓD
KARSIŃSKICH
Town (Stare Miasto), partially surrounded by medieval NO W OL IP K I
KA RM ELI CKA
AL. JANA PAWLA II
recent New Town (Nowe Miasto), which became a separate
urban entity in 1408. Almost completely destroyed during DŁU G A
Ratusz
World War II, the reconstruction of these two districts was AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
BI
an undertaking on a scale unprecedented in the whole
EL
AŃ
SK
of Europe. Today, they are the most popular tourist
A
PLAC
BANKOWY
destinations in Warsaw. SENATORSKA
EL EK TO R A L N A
P LA C
M I RO
WSKI
P TA
SIA
OGRÓD
SASKI
GR Z YBO WSKA
KRÓLEWSKA
ŁK O W S KA
ZI EL NA
PLAC P R ÓŻ NA
T WA R DA GRZYBOWSKI
PLAC HENRYKA
DÁBROWSKIEGO
M AR SZ A
Świętokrzyska
J AS N A
Rondo
ONZ ŚWIĘTO
KRZYS
KA
ŚL ISK A
M ON I U
A
S ZK I
SK
A ŁK O W
S IE NK I EW IC
ER
ZA
P L AT T
PLAC
DEFILAD
ZŁ O TA
MARSZ
SZPITALNA
EMILII
ZG
OD
Warszawa
A
Śródmieście
Centrum
W ID OK
AL. JEROZ
OLIM
SKIE
The elaborate ballroom of the Royal Castle
Sights at a Glance
1 Zygmunt’s Column
CZA
2 Royal Castle
KRU
3 Cathedral of St John
4 Old Town Market Square
5 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising
6 St Hyacinth Church
7 Ulica Freta
8 Krakowskie Przedmieście pp180–81 PIĘ
KN
9 Pac Palace A
S ANGU
SKA
WÓJTOWSK
ZAKROCZY
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Śląsko-Dąbrowski
NO Getting Around
KO ZI A
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TEATRALNY Church of
The sights in the Old and New Towns
IEŚC
SOW
St Anne
BE D N
are easily visited on foot, since most of
DOBRA
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the streets are pedestrianized. Trams
FU RM
Church
Vi
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st
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and two metro lines with Świętokrzyska
IE
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Church of W I ŚL AN A
the Visitation to find in the city centre. Although driving
A
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less crowded here than in most
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Mannerist sanctuary of
IE
K
Our Lady of Mercy, the
A
R
patron saint of Warsaw,
S
K
was rebuilt after
A
World War II.
1 Zygmunt’s Column
is the oldest secular
monument in Warsaw. S
Ń
JA
O
T
IĘ
A W
Ś
N
IW
P
P L AC
ZAMKOWY
2 . Royal Castle
This former royal residence, rebuilt
in the 1970s, is today the symbol of
Polish independence.
Barbican and
City Walls
This impressive brick
fortification, constructed
between the 14th and
16th centuries, once
protected the northern
approach to the city.
Zygmunt’s Column
ID
U
N
1 Zygmunt’s
A
J
A
K
JS Column
IE Kolumna Króla Zygmunta
M
O
W Plac Zamkowy. Map D2.
K
O
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 190, 222, 503,
O
N
Ł
O
8Street-by-Street: Krakowskie
Przedmieście
Rebuilt after World War II, Krakowskie Przedmieście is one
of the most beautiful streets in Warsaw. Lined with trees,
green squares and statues of distinguished Poles, the street
is dominated by several palaces such as the Presidential
Palace (Pałac Namiestnikowski). Some of these now house
government departments. On weekdays, this is one of the Carmelite Church
This Baroque church was built
liveliest streets, as two great institutions of higher education – for the order of the Discalced
the University of Warsaw and the Academy of Fine Arts – Carmelites between 1661
are situated here. Numerous restaurants, bars and cafés and 1682.
line the street.
Presidential Palace
was rebuilt in the Neo-
. Church of St Anne Classical style for the tsar’s
This Gothic church was governor. It is now the
built for the Bernardine president’s residence.
Order in the second half
of the 15th century. The
Neo-Classical façade was
a later addition.
KA
RO
W
A
BE
DN
AR
IE
SK
OW
SK
K
K RA
A
OSS
OLIŃSKIC
TR
EM
BA
WA
H
CK
DO
A
ZI
A
KO
MIO
KOPERNIK A
Staszic Palace,
built between 1820
and 1823 in the late
Neo-Classical style,
now houses the
Polish Academy
of Sciences.
IE
ŚC
IE
DM
ZE
PR
KR
ÓL
EW
SK
A
. University of Warsaw
The university is the largest educational institution in Poland Key
but only some of the faculties are situated at its main site on Suggested route
Krakowskie Przedmieście.
182 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
2 Krakow
For nearly six centuries, Krakow was the capital of Poland and the BASZTO W A
country’s largest city. Polish rulers resided at Wawel Royal Castle PLANTY
until the court and parliament moved to Warsaw in 1596. Even
GO
P IJ A RS K A
IE
ŚW
SK
A
SK
. M
spiritual heart and rulers were still crowned and buried in
W
A
OW
RK
JE
A
NA
the cathedral on Wawel Hill. Most places of interest are
WK
DU
SŁA
located in its fairly compact historic centre. A good PLAC
NA
J.
SZCZEPAŃSKI
. JA
Cultural
place to start is Wawel Hill with its imposing castle SZ
CZ Information
ŚW
EP Centre
SZ AŃ
and Gothic cathedral. North of Wawel Hill lies the EW
SK
SK
A
S TA R E
A
A
SK
Old Town, with an attractive market square, the Church of St
Ń
MIASTO
LO
Anne
Church of St Mary and the picturesque Cloth Hall.
EL
ŚW
GI
.A RYNEK
NN PLAC
JA
To the south of the hill is the Kazimierz district, Y GŁÓWNY MARIACKI
POD
with its preserved Jewish quarter. Today, the city Collegium
Maius
WAL
St Barbara’s
has 750,000 inhabitants, and in recent years many GO
ŁĘ
Church
BIA
buildings and monuments have been restored to E
NA
St Adalbert’s
IŚL
KA
Church
their former glory.
BRACKA
RS
LA
S TO
Sights at a Glance
ANCISZKAŃSKA
1 Cloth Hall FR
DOMINIKA ŃSK
Franciscan A
2 City Hall Tower Church
GRODZKA
3 Ulica Floriańska
4 Church of St Mary pp188–9
F. S T
7 Szołaysky House
PLANTY
8 Fortifications on the Wawel
K IE G
ZA
NIC
St Andrew
0 “Lost Wawel” Exhibition
NO
Church of
KA
r Auschwitz pp196–9
D
ZI
EG
O
KA
ŃS
DY
N AR
B ER
Church of the
Bernardines
SM O
C ZA
K
TE
SU
LE
KO
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NN
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FA DIETL A
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st
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Paulite
a
Church
ŚW
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IL I PA
RYNEK
KLEPARSKI KURNIKI
Getting Around
PAWIA
PLAC
JANA Kraków Central Krakow is small and compact, making it
MATEJKI WO Główny
RC
easy to get around on foot or by public transport.
ZE
EL
LA
C IS
BA
St Florian’s
SZ
TO regular on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
W
Gate A PLAC At night, only buses operate, and many bus routes
KOLEJOWY
PIJARSKA extend to the suburbs. A number of private firms
LU BI CZ run minibus services within the inner and outer city
KA
Matejko
ŃS
PLAC
F LO
ŚW. DUCHA
OFA Kazimierz district.
NA
L. ZAMENH
W IŁ Ł OW
AL
ŚW
PIT
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AR
SZ
ŚW KA
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SK A
O MA
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RPL
A
MI
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ŁA Greater Krakow
RZ
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A
. K
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MAŁY
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7
RYNEK M . K O PE RNI K A
W
94
79
A4
Trzebinia
SIE Krzeszowice
NN Chrzanów Zabierzów
A Church of the
Dominican Nuns
79
Libiąz
A4
Dominican 79
John Paul II
Church Alwemia International KRAKÓW
780 Airport
44 V is
tu l a
Skawina A4
28
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44
7
0 km 10
ERTR
0 miles 10
Ś W. G
Locator map
Area of the main map
ŚW. SE
B AS T I A
N A
STRADOM
ŚW
.S
Key
EB
LA
AS
TIA
ET
BRZ
Church of the OZO
WA
Street-by-Street area: see pp186–7
NA
DI
Missionaries
Street-by-Street area: see pp190–91
IE
EZ
FA
Remu’h
RZ
DB
PO
Synagogue
AR
SZER
JÓ
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D A JW
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IŚ
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Motorway
A
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PLAC
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Isaak’s
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Synagogue
AKA Old Major road
NO
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ISE High
WA
E
B. M Synagogue Minor road
BOŻ
BA RT
PLAC
FA
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WĄ
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O S ZA
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KAZIMIERZ
GU
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Corpus
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K OWS K
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Catherine Church
WA
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0 metres 250
4 . Church of
Street-by-Street: Main St Mary
Market Square The façade of this
church, with its two
The huge Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) impressive towers,
is one of the finest
was laid out when Krakow received its new Gothic structures
municipal charter in 1257. One of the largest in Poland.
squares in Europe, it brims with life all year
round. In summer, pedestrians negotiate the
3 Ulica
maze of café tables that fill the lively square, Floriańska is
along with a host of shops, antique dealers, one of the busiest
restaurants, bars and clubs. There are also streets in Krakow.
numerous interesting museums, galleries
and historic sights, including some splendid
Renaissance and Baroque houses and mansions.
FL
OR
IAŃ
SK
SŁA
A
WK
OW
SKA
St Adalbert’s Church
This is a small but splendid KA
AŃS
Romanesque church. It ZEP
SZC
predates the planning of the
vast Main Market Square and
is all but lost in it now. RYNEK S
GŁÓWNY
A
WSK
SZE
BR
AC
KA
1 . Cloth Hall
This beautiful Renaissance building
replaced an earlier Gothic market hall.
The upper floor houses a branch
of the National Museum.
3 Ulica Floriańska
Map D2. @ 152, 352, 502. v 2, 4, 8,
10, 14, 18, 20. Matejko House: Tel (012)
Church of St Barbara 422 5926. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
Dating from the late 14th 10am–4pm Sun. Closed Mon.
century, this church contains & free on Sun. 8 Jama Michalika:
many treasures, including a Open 9am–10pm Sun–Thu,
15th-century Gothic pietà. It Frenzy, by Władysław Podkowiński, 9am–11pm Fri, Sat.
was the principal Polish church Cloth Hall
in Krakow during Austrian rule. This charming street in the
1 Cloth Hall Old Town is full of restaurants,
Sukiennice cafés and shops. It leads from
the Main Market Square to the
Rynek Główny 1/3. Map C2.
@ 152, 502. v 3, 4, 8, 10, 14, 18, 20. Florian Gate and was once
Merchant’s House,
also known as “At a Museum of 19th Century Art: part of the Royal Route, along
Sign of the Lizard”, Tel (012) 433 5400. Open 10am–8pm which rulers would ride on
gets its name from the Tue–Sun. & ∑ muzeum.krakow.pl their way from Warsaw to
relief of lizards carved their coronation in Krakow.
in stone above the main Set in the centre of the Main Matejko House (Dom
portal. It is now a pub Market Square, the Cloth Hall Matejki), at No. 41, is the birth-
and cultural centre. replaced an earlier Gothic place of the painter Jan Matejko.
trade hall dating from the late He spent most of his life here.
14th century. Destroyed in a On display is a collection of his
fire then rebuilt by Giovanni paintings and his studio, full
Maria Padovano, it owes part of artist’s materials.
A of its present appearance to A little further on, at No. 45,
NN
SIE Tomasz Pryliński’s Romantic- is Jama Michalika, a café that
style restoration between 1875 was very fashionable in the late
and 1879. Today, the ground 19th to early 20th centuries.
floor is filled with a selection The fine Art Nouveau decor
of souvenir shops and cafés. by Karol Frycz can still be seen.
The Musuem of 19th Century The Florian Gate at the end
Art, a branch of the National of the street is one of the few
Museum, is located on the surviving remnants of the city’s
upper floor. It has a collection medieval fortifications, along
of 19th-century paintings by with a section of the city wall.
renowned artists, including Jan
Matejko and Henryk Siemiradzki.
G
R
O
D 2 City Hall Tower
Z
K Wieża Ratuszowa
A
Rynek Główny 1. Map C2. @ 152,
502. v 2, 4, 8, 10, 13, 14, 18, 20.
Historical Museum: Tel (012) 426 4334.
Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–6pm daily.
Closed 1, 3 May & 15 Aug. &
. Crucifix
4 Church of St Mary The large sand-
Kościół Mariacka stone crucifix by
Veit Stoss is a fine
The imposing Church of St Mary was example of
built by the citizens of Krakow to rival 15th-century
sculpture.
the Krakow Cathedral on Wawel Hill (see
pp190–91). Construction began in 1355,
and continued until the mid-15th century;
the lower tower was not completed
until the early 16th century. Inside,
Neo-Gothic paintings cover the walls.
This great basilica, with its rows of
side chapels, contains an exceptional
number of works of art.
Hejnał Tower
The famous trumpet call –
the Hejnał – is sounded hourly
from the watchtower. As per
legend, the call is unfinished,
in memory of a medieval
trumpeter, shot while
sounding the alarm.
The Hejnał is broadcast
live on Polish radio
daily at noon.
Main
entrance
Ciborium
Baroque Porch This intricately constructed
The exuberant pentagonal ciborium in the form of a
porch was built in the mid- Renaissance church was
18th century to a design by made by Giovanni Maria
Francesco Placidi. Padovano around 1552.
For hotels and restaurants p220 and p221
KRAKOW 189
Street-by-Street:
The Wawel
In about 1038 Kazimierz the Restorer made
the citadel on Wawel Hill the seat of Polish
political power. In the 16th century the
Jagiełłonian rulers transformed the Gothic w . Wawel Royal Castle
castle into a magnificent Renaissance palace. Once home to the Jagiellonian kings,
the Wawel Royal Castle has survived without
Once the site of coronations and royal burials, major damage. It incorporates the walls
the cathedral is regarded as a shrine by of older Gothic buildings
Poles. The Wawel Royal Castle beside
it is a symbol of national identity.
8 Fortifications on
the Wawel have been
demolished and renewed
several times since the
Middle Ages – right up
to the 20th century
Monument
of Tadeusz
Kościuszko
q . Krakow Cathedral
The Gothic cathedral, lined with
royal burial chapels from different
ages, has some extraordinarily
valuable furnishings
9 Cathedral Museum
On display are religious and royal
regalia from the cathedral treasury,
including the magnificent robe
of Stanisław August Poniatowski
(see p178)
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
8 Fortifications on
The Crown Treasury and the Wawel
Armoury situated in the Fortyfikacje, Mury Obronne
historic Gothic rooms of the
castle were used for storing Wawel. Map C4. v 1, 3, 8, 10,
the Polish coronation 18, 22.
insignia and Crown Jewels. The Wawel Hill was fortified
Memorabilia of the Polish from early times but today only
monarchs and objects from fragments of the oldest Gothic
the former treasury are also fortifications remain. However,
on display here. three towers raised in the
second half of the 15th century Embroidered hood of Bishop Trzebicki’s
still survive – the Senatorial cope, Cathedral Museum
Senatorial Tower, the Thieves’ Tower and
Tower the Sandomierz Tower. Of the from 1504 and has quilted
fortifications dating between embroidery depicting scenes
the 16th and 17th centuries from St Stanisław’s life. Some
the most interesting is the fascinating pieces of royal
Vasa Gate. The monument to memorabilia are also on display
the national hero Tadeusz at the museum.
Kościuszko, leader of the failed
insurrection of 1794, on the
Władysław Bastion is another 0 “Lost Wawel”
highlight. The Wawel continued Exhibition
to play a defensive role into Wawel Zaginiony
the 19th century, and a system
of fortifications dating from Wawel 5. Map C4. Tel (012) 422 5155.
v 3, 8, 10, 18. Open Apr–Oct:
the late 18th and mid-19th
9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–1pm
centuries can still be seen.
Mon, 10am–5pm Sat–Sun; Nov–Mar:
9:30am–4pm Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm
Sun. Closed public hols. & free
Nov–Mar: Sun; Apr–Oct: Mon.
∑ wawel.krakow.pl
q Krakow Cathedral
Królewska Katedra na Wawelu
Krakow Cathedral, which stands on
the Wawel (see pp190–91), is one of the most
important churches in Poland. Before the
present cathedral was erected (1320–64), two
churches stood on the site. The cathedral has
many features, including a series of chapels
founded by bishops of which the most
beautiful is the Renaissance Zygmunt Chapel.
There are royal tombs in the cathedral and
the Crypt of St Leonard, a remnant of the
Romanesque Cathedral of St Wacław.
Zygmunt Bell
Constructed in 1520,
this is the largest bell
in Poland. Weighing
almost 11 tonnes
(24,251 lbs), it has a
diameter of over
2 m (6 ft).
. Tomb of Kazimierz
the Jagiełłonian
Completed in 1492, this
royal tomb in the Chapel
of the Holy Cross is one of
the last commissions that
the German sculptor Veit
Stoss fulfilled in Poland.
Main entrance
Shrine of St Stanisław
The silver coffin containing
KEY the relics of St Stanisław, the
bishop of Krakow to whom
1 The top of the clock tower is the cathedral is dedicated, was
decorated with statues of saints. built between 1669 and 1671
2 High Altar by Pieter van der Rennen, a
goldsmith from Gdańsk.
For hotels and restaurants see p220 and p221
KRAKOW 193
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Wawel 3. Map C4. Tel (012) 422
5155. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 12:30–5pm Sun; Oct–
Mar: 9am–4pm Mon–Sat, 12:30–
4pm Sun. & Royal Tombs &
Zygmunt Bell. 8 7
Stalls Transport
The early Baroque oak stalls @ 103, 502. v 8, 10, 18, 20.
in the chancel were built
around 1620.
w Wawel
Royal Castle
Zamek Królewski na Wawelu
Wawel Hill. Map C4. Tel (012) 422
1697. @ 103, 502. v 8, 10, 18, 40.
Open Nov–Mar: 9:30am–4pm Tue–
Sat; Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & Nov–Mar:
Sun. 8 Royal Private Apartments.
∑ wawel.krakow.pl
A
the quarter was destroyed in the Nazi invasion,
W
O
but recently many galleries, cafés and bars
D
IO
have opened here.
M
J
A
A
K
W
U
O
B
D
A
IO
M
Temple Synagogue
The decoration of this synagogue,
built in the Neo-Renaissance style,
was influenced by Moorish art.
Key 0 metres 50
K
U
Jewish Tombs
The signs carved on Jewish tombs have A
symbolic value. The grave of a rabbi is K
A
indicated by hands joined in prayer. Those A
IZ
of Levites are distinguished by basins and
jugs for the ritual ablution of hands. Three
interlaced snakes feature on the grave of a
physician, and a crown of knowledge on that
of a learned man. A lion or a six-pointed Star
of David signifies a descendant of Judah.
Kupa Synagogue
Built in the
17th century, this
synagogue, financed
by the Kahal, the
municipality of
Kazimierz, was also
used for non-religious
purposes. It has
recently been con-
Intricately carved symbolic motifs on Jewish tombs verted into a Jewish
cultural centre.
For hotels and restaurants see p220 and p221
KRAKOW 195
Remu’h Synagogue
This synagogue is dedicated
to Rabbi Remu’h, who was
reputed to be a miracle
D
is still venerated by
JW
Jewish pilgrims.
Ó
R
S
Z
E
R
O
K
A
A Synagogue on
F
B
E
Z the Hill
A
Ó
RT
J
OZ
A
Isaak’s Synagogue is
named after its founder,
Isaak Jakubowicz, a
Jewish elder.
. Old Synagogue
High Synagogue Although destroyed by the
Designed in Gothic style, Nazis, Poland’s oldest synagogue
the High Synagogue is has been painstakingly restored.
one of Krakow’s most This menorah is among its
attractive synagogues. many treasures.
196 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
r Auschwitz I
Oświęcim
For most people, Auschwitz represents the ultimate horror of
the Holocaust. The Nazis began the first mass transportation
of European Jews to Auschwitz in 1942 and it soon became
the centre of extermination. Over the next three years, more
than one and a half million people, a quarter of those who
died in the Holocaust, were killed at Auschwitz and the Exhibitions
neighbouring Birkenau camp (see pp198–9), also known as The daily horrors of life in the
Auschwitz II. Today, Auschwitz is a UNESCO World Heritage camp are displayed in some
of the barracks.
Site and the camp has been preserved as a poignant
memorial. The prison blocks have been turned into a
museum charting the history of the camps and of
persecution in Poland.
The Camp
Auschwitz I opened in 1940 on the site of
former Polish Army barracks. Originally
built to incarcerate only Polish political
prisoners, further buildings were
added in the spring of 1941 as the
number of prisoners drastically
increased. Camp administration
was also based here.
Maksymilian Kolbe
This Franciscan priest,
who was later canonized,
chose to die to save
another inmate’s life
here. He was sentenced
to death by starvation.
1939 1940 First deportation 1941 Hitler reported to have 1944 As the Soviet 1945 27 Jan,
1 Sep, of German Jews into ordered the “Final Solution”. Army closes in on Soviet soldiers
Hitler Nazi-occupied Poland. Auschwitz, the SS liberate the few
invades begin destroying all remaining prisoners
Poland. 1942 First section of evidence of the camp. at Auschwitz.
Birkenau camp completed.
1940 Oświęcim 1941 Himmler 1942 1943 Four gas chambers 1945 7 May,
chosen as the site makes first visit 1941 First gas Beginning built for mass murder. Germany
of the Nazis’ new to Auschwitz chamber goes of mass finally
concentration and orders its into operation. deportation 1945 18 Jan, 56,000 prisoners surrenders
camp. expansion. to Auschwitz. evacuated on “Death March”. to the Allies.
198 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Auschwitz II–Birkenau
Oświęcim-Brzezinka
Birkenau was primarily a place of execution. Over one
million people were killed in its four gas chambers, 98
per cent of whom were Jewish. Victims included Poles,
Russian prisoners of war, gypsies and Czech, Yugoslav, French,
Austrian and German citizens. Birkenau was also an enormous
concentration camp, housing 90,000 slave labourers by mid- Hell’s Gate
1944 and providing labour for many of the factories and farms In 1944, the numbers arriving
at the camp began to increase
of southwestern, Nazi-occupied Poland. The gas chambers
dramatically. A railway line was
were quickly destroyed by the Nazis shortly before the extended into the camp. The
Soviet Army liberated the camp in January 1945. entrance gate through which
the trains passed was known
as “Hell’s Gate”.
Visiting Birkenau
There is little left of the camp
today; its main purpose is for
remembrance. Most visitors
come to pay their respects at
the Monument to the Victims
of the Camp, on the site of
the gas chambers.
KEY
Kanada
This was the nickname of the
barracks where property stolen
from prisoners was stored. It was
the preferred place to work at
Auschwitz II-Birkenau as it offered
opportunities for inmates to pilfer
items to barter for food or
medicine later.
The Sauna
New arrivals selected for work were
deloused and disinfected in this
building, which became known as
the “sauna”. Periodic disinfection of
existing prisoners was also carried
out here.
3 Wrocław
The beautiful city of Wrocław bears the stamp of several
cultures. It was founded by Duke Vratislav of Bohemia in the
10th century and a Polish bishopric was established here in
AD 1000. Later it became the capital of the Duchy of Silesian
Piasts, and then came under Czech rule in 1335. In 1526, with
the whole Czech state, it was incorporated into the Habsburg
Empire, and in 1741 was transferred to Prussian rule. The
fierce defence that German forces put up here at the end
of World War II left almost three quarters of Wrocław in ruins
Baroque pietá in the University Church
but the city has now been painstakingly reconstructed. of the Blessed Name of Jesus
Ostrów Tumski
Cathedral of St John the Baptist: pl.
Katedralny 18. Open 10am–4pm University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus
Mon–Sat, 2–4pm Sun.
∑ katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl Wrocław University
PLAC
Once an island in the Odra Arsenal
KA UNIWERSYTECKI
DZ
SKA
river, Ostrów Tumski is where C IE GRO U N IW
ERS
SZY YTE
ŃSK
ZAŃ
H CKA
IC IE G
the history of Wrocław began. TK CH
YS TY
O
NO
ODR
Airport SZ IĘ ŁAZ ŻOW
Współczesny
In the 19th century, the 11 km (7 miles) W Ś W
Theatre
IEN
NA
NIC
ZA
S
Church of E L Ż BW.
ZA
northern arm of the Odra IE T Y
SKA
St Barbara Ś W.
NIC
MIK Church of
was filled in and Tumski OŁA
JA
SZEW
St Elizabeth
AT
KUŹ
ZA
ZA
ceased to be an island. Ostrów MAIN
WI
RU
Ź N IC
SK MARKET
N IC
A RY N
NOWY Ś
SQUARE
Tumski’s principal landmark, EK W
BAŚ
S T W I TA
RZE
GAR
NCA
P O D WA L E
EK
ŻEL IE ZA
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RYN
AŹN
PS
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the Baptist (Katedra św Jana ŚW IE N E
IE
RY N
PA W Ł A
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EK
despite having suffered the O F IA
RO Kameleon
Ś
KA
W IĘ Store
ravages of World War II. Other W University C IM
CKA
ŁO
IARS
DK S K IC
OW Library H
highlights include the two-
KA
ŁAC
DNI
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A
KA
WS
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ŚWI
Royal ER
IC
SZ E
Palace ZA
PN
IEG
Henry IV, the Pious and the O
PO PLAC
Archdiocesan Museum, a rich DW WOLNOŚCI Church of Sts
Wenceslas, Stanisław
repository of Gothic art built AL and Dorothy M E
E NNIC
PLAC ZA
between 1519 and 1527. TEATRALNY
T E AT
A walk through the narrow Dolnośląska
A ŁA
A
RALN
A
ICK
Opera Hause
streets can be followed by a Lalek
CI
IDN
O Theatre
BO ŻEG
visit to the Botanical Gardens. 0 metres 200
ŚW
M. Kopernik
Park
0 yards 200
P Wrocław University Central Wrocław POD
WALE
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Tel (071) 375 1 Ostrów Tumski
2215. Assembly Hall: Open 10:30am– and paintings by Christoph 2 Wrocław University
3:30pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 11am–5pm Handke glorifying Wisdom,
Fri–Sun. & 3 University Church of the Blessed
Knowledge and Science, and
Name of Jesus
Established as an academy the founders of the academy.
by Emperor Leopold I in 1702, 4 Nankiera Bishop’s Square
Wrocław University (Uniwer- 5 National Museum
sytet Wrocławski) was given 6 Panorama of Racławice
its current status in 1811. The 7 Bernadine Church and
university has produced eight Monastery
Nobel Laureates including the 8 St Mary Magdalene’s Church
nuclear physicist Max Born. 9 Kameleon Store
Since 1945 it has been a Polish
0 Main Market Square
centre of learning.
q Town Hall
The highlight of this Baroque
building is the Assembly Hall w Church of St Elizabeth
(Aula Leopoldina) whose e Royal Palace
interior includes stuccowork, The richly ornamented interior of Wrocław r Church of Sts Wenceslas,
gilding by Franz Josef Mangoldt University’s Assembly Hall Stanisław and Dorothy
For hotels and restaurants see p220 and p221
POLAND 201
BISHOP’S EG
O
Polish works.
M
SQUARE
O
DUN
OD
IEG
I KOWSK
PIASK
IEGO
RZ E W S K I E G O
K. JANICK
most
NOWY Pokoju
National
TARG
Museum
PL. POWSTAŃ CÓW W
GO
J A N A E WA N G E L I S T Y P U R KY N I E AR
SZA
WY
Y Ń S KA
Awangarda Church of
Gallery
Y
St Adalbert Panorama
ARZYN
J. Słowacki
NARD
of Racławice
Park
Bernadine Church
BE R
A JULI
USZ WA C K I E G O
A SŁO
ŚW
OŁA
WSK
A
PLAC
DOMINIKAŃSKI
Façade of the National Museum
Church of
St Christopher
The church, used by the Panorama of Racławice
Piasts as a mausoleum, still ul. Purkyniego 11. Tel (071) 344 1661.
A
ALE
RGI
ZBOW
PODW
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1727 by Pompeo Ferrari. Over EN
. T
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I
this is a painting illustrating a I U
SZ UTRZE
BY
C
legendary episode from the KSI ĘC IA J Ó Z E
FA
Ś
Cemetery
O
K
T.
life of St Stanisław. Then a
Discalced Carmelites’
bishop, he was accused by Church of St Joseph
Church of
the Polish King Bolesław III St Adalbert
Wrymouth (1085–1138) of St Adalbert’s
not paying for a village he had Hill
DZIAŁO
ŚW
order to prove his innocence,
.W
WO
OJ
St Stanisław is believed to LNI
WA
CI
CA
EC
have resurrected the
H
A
GO
ŁY
M
Heart of Jesus owner of the PLAC
W
WIELKOPOLSKI
A L . K . M A R C I N KO
land to testify
A
PLAC TEG O
R Church of the Most Sacred 23 LU
NIECK
on his behalf.
A
CYRYLA Przemysław
WSK
RATAJSKIEGO Castle
Heart of Jesus The Baroque
WRO
ŻYDO
ul. Szewska 18. Tel (061) 852 5076/ buildings of a
M A
ŁA
ZE OR
3
YS
PR G
MA
STAR Y
853 3359. former Jesuit Raczyński RY NE K
JA
7 km (4 miles) Archaeological
a Dominican church until the brotherhood
SZ K O
PO Museum
1920, when it was passed to between 1701 DG
ÓR
GOŁ Ę
BIA
Former Kaiser NA Church of Sts
the Jesuits. During the German and 1733. Today, District Ś W. Mary Magdalene
MARCIN
occupation in World War II, a they are used by PLAC
and Stanisław
WIOSNY
repository was set up here for the city council for SOK
A LUDÓW Chopin
WY PO
Polish books removed from secular purposes. ST D G Park
A
R Ó
IE JS K
ZE RN
the libraries in Poznań. LE A
CK
P Ó ŁW
A
P Old Town Square Railway Station
1.6 km (1 mile) Z I ELON
A
Archdiocese
GARBARY
PA N Museum
NY Lubrański
IEGO
BOŻNICZA
W Academy
M
WA
AR
D
K I P OS A Z E G O
AŃSK
II
a
SKO
rt
OSTRÓW
a
LUBR
PIA
T
TUMSKI RÓW UMSK
OST I
Church of
M A ŁE St Mary
GARB KI Façade of the magnificent Działyński Palace
A RY MS Poznań
TU
Psalter Cathedral
E. E
ÓW
S TAW
NA ST
KO
TR
S
KA
Chrobrego
W
E
I SZ 0 metres 250
AL between 1785 and 1787. The
W
WIELKA CH 0 yards 250 columned Red Room is worth
WOŹN
a visit. The building is now
A
Other collections of paintings used as a library, theatre and
W O DN
A can be seen in the Royal Hall concert hall.
RY
+ Przemysław Castle
Jesuit P Działyński Palace Góra Przemysła 1. Tel (061) 856 8186.
M O
College
Stary Rynek 78. Tel (061) 852 0950. Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, noon–9pm
ST
WSZYSTKICH
This palace (Pałac Działyńskich)
OW
ŚWIĘTYCH
Sat. ∑ mnp.art.pl
A
6 Toruń
Founded by the Teutonic knights in 1233, Toruń quickly
became a major centre of trade. In 1454, when its citizens
rebelled against the knights’ rule, it passed to the kings of
Poland. Famous as the birthplace of the astronomer Nicolaus
Copernicus (1473–1543), the city is also renowned for its
architecture. Picturesquely situated on the banks of the Vistula
river, the Old Town of Toruń retains its medieval street plan, and
has a rare calm, since most of the streets are closed to traffic. A room in the 15th-century
Copernicus House
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
211 km (131 miles) NW of
Warsaw. * 203,000. n Rynek
Staromiejski 25, (056) 621 0931.
_ Kontakt Theatre Festival (May/
Jun), Probaltica Baltic Arts and
Music Festival (mid-May).
∑ torun.pl
Transport
£ Toruń Główny, ul. Kujawska 1.
@ ul. Dąbrowskiego 26.
JA
PLAC
NA
SOLIDARNOŚCI
Z
9 Gdańsk
KO
KI
LN
DO
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Among the finest cities of northern Europe, Gdańsk
WS
ŁA
has a history that goes back more than 1,000 years.
STO
GI
PIA
One of the wealthiest cities in Poland, it was
EW
NI
completely destroyed during World War II, but a
ŁY
KI
WA
postwar rebuilding programme has restored many W
A
ŁO
of its grand buildings. Most of the historic buildings W
A
RA
remarkable of which is the medieval Church of
JS
Gdańsk
KA
Główny
St Mary, dating back to the 14th century.
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Sights at a Glance
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1 Monument to the Fallen
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0 metres 200 KA
Major sight / Place of interest
0 yards 200
Pedestrian street
1 Monument
to the Fallen
Shipyard Workers
Pomnik Połeglych Stoczniowców
plac Solidarności. Map C1. @ v
WA Ł
A OW
TN A This monument was built a
I
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SA few months after the Gdańsk
AK
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RN
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S (see p172). Erected in honour of
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the shipyard workers who were
BA
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A monument was designed by
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U FUR TY
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with a group of artists includ-
S TA R O RYBNY t
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ROBLA IV
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4 Church of
St Catherine
Kościół św Katarzyny
ul. Profesorska 3. Map C2.
Tel (058) 301 1595.
The Church of St Catherine,
or “Katy” as locals call it, was
built between 1227 and 1239
by the dukes of Gdańsk-
Pomerania. Regarded as the
oldest and most important
parish church in the Old Town,
it underwent major rebuilding
in the 14th century.
The 76-m (250-ft) high
Baroque tower of the church
was added in 1486. It also
houses an impressive 49-bell
carillon. A major landmark,
the tower was demolished
The impressive façade of Great Mill in 1944 and then rebuilt. It is
well worth climbing to the
2 Old Town Hall Kultury). The main room on the top of the tower; the effort is
Ratusz Starego Miasta ground floor houses a changing rewarded by wonder ful views
series of exhibitions devoted to of the city. The presbytery on
ul. Korzenna 33/35. Map C3. local, regional, cultural and the east side of the church has
Tel (058) 301 1051. 7 0 - = historical themes. In the main a fine late-Gothic gable. Most
Built by Antonis van Opbergen hall is the bronze figure of Jan of the Gothic, Baroque and
between 1587 and 1595, Hevelius, a Polish astronomer Mannerist furnishings that the
the Old Town Hall is an and city councillor. church once contained were
outstanding example of pillaged or destroyed in 1945
Dutch Mannerist architecture. at the end of World War II. The
A compact building with no 3 Great Mill most notable surviving pieces
distinctive ornamentation, Wielki Młyn are paintings by Anton Möller
it is equipped with a strong and Izaak van den Blocke,
defence tower. The stone door- ul. Wielkie Młyny 16. Map C2. the Baroque memorials to
way was probably made by Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, various townspeople and
10am–3pm Sat. 7 =
artist Willem van der Meer at the tombstone of the Polish
the end of the 16th century. The seven-storey Great Mill astronomer Jan Hevelius and
Beneath each bracket are two is regarded as one of the his family, dating from 1659.
distorted masks personifying largest industrial buildings in
Vice, and two smiling, chubby medieval Europe. Construction
masks, representing Virtue. began during the rule of the
Even though very little is left Teutonic Knights, who seized
of the original decorative the town in 1308, and was
scheme of 1595, the paintings, completed around 1350. Built
sculptures and furniture within in brick, it is crowned by a tall
the Town Hall are fascinating. Of and steeply pitched roof. The
particular interest is the painted mill consisted of a two-storey
ceiling in one of the rooms by bakery with a chimney set
Hermann Hahn, a 17th-century against its gable that reached
artist from Pomerania. It was the height of its roof. Also part
removed from a house at ulica of the mill were 12, later 18,
Długa 39 and transferred to this large poles to which millstones
building some time after 1900. were attached for grinding
The theme of the ceiling various types of grain. The mill
paintings are allegorical: the was destroyed by fire in 1945,
central one depicts The Lord’s but was restored after World
Blessing and the Polish King War II. This remarkably old
Zygmunt III also appears in the edifice has now been con-
painting. Today, the building verted into a modern shop-
houses the Baltic Sea Culture ping centre although traces of Gothic tower of the Church of
Centre (Nadbałtyckie Centrum the original building still exist. St Catherine
For hotels and restaurants see p220 and p221
POLAND 213
6 Church of
St Mary
Kościół Mariacki
ul. Podkramarska 5. Map D4.
Tel (058) 301 3982. Open 9am–
6:30pm Mon–Sat, 1–6:30pm Sun (5pm
in winter). Tower: Open 9am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. &
∑ bazylikamariacka.pl
qNational
Maritime Museum
Narodowe Muzeum Morskie
ul. Ołowianka 9–13. Map E3.
Tel (058) 301 8611. @ 106, 111, 138.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 4pm
winter). Closed public hols. &
∑ nmm.pl
DIRECTORY
Documentation United States Arriving by Air Rail Travel
al. Ujazdowskie 29/31,
∑ visitpoland.com Air France InterCity
Warsaw.
∑ intercity.pl
Embassies Tel (022) 504 2000. ∑ airfrance.com
∑ poland. usembassy. Polish Rail Network
Australia gov British Airways ∑ pkp.pl
ul. Nowogrodzka 11, ∑ britishairways.com
Warsaw. Visitor Information Rozkład
Tel (022) 521 3444. easyJet ∑ rozklad.pkp.pl
∑ poland.embassy. Orbis ∑ easyjet.com Warsaw Central
gov.au ∑ poland.travel Tel (022) 94 36.
Lufthansa
Canada Emergency
ul. Matejki 1/5, Warsaw. ∑ lufthansa.com Travelling by Car
Tel (022) 584 3100. Ambulance, Fire Ryanair Avis
∑ canada.pl and Police Tel (012) 629 6108.
Tel 112. ∑ ryanair.com ∑ avis.pl
New Zealand
al.Ujazdowskie 51, Road Emergencies SAS Hertz
Warsaw. Tel (012) 429 6262.
Tel 981. ∑ flysas.com
Tel (022) 521 0500. ∑ hertz.com.pl
∑ nzembassy.com/ Facilities for Wizzair
poland the Disabled Arriving by Ferry
∑ wizzair.com
United Kingdom Gdańsk Ferry
ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw. Disabled People’s
Warsaw Okęcie Terminal
Tel (022) 311 0000. National Council
Airport Tel (058) 343 1887.
∑ ukinpoland.fco. ul. Andersa 13, Warsaw.
gov.uk Tel (022) 530 6570. Tel (022) 650 4220.
218 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
in Yiddish and is the only such Krakow. Poland’s two best agencies. Tickets can be
place in the country. In Krakow, ballet companies perform in bought from the Cultural
Teatr Stary is considered one the Teatr Wielki in Warsaw Information Centre.
of the country’s best theatres. and Poznań.
In Warsaw, information about
advance booking for cultural Festivals
events can be found at Kasy Classical and Folk Music Poland hosts several local
ZASP. In Krakow, tickets can There are over 20 classical and international festivals.
be bought in advance at the orchestras in Poland and they A major theatre festival is the
Cultural Information Centre. perform in almost all of its Malta International Drama
Local tourist information big cities. Particularly renowned Festival, held from late June
offices can also provide are the National Philharmonic to early July in the streets
information on shows and Orchestra (Filharmonia and theatres of Poznań. In
booking procedures. Narodowa) in Warsaw, the Warsaw, the Street Theaters
Filharmonia Bałtycka in Gdańsk Festival runs throughout
and the Poznań Philharmonia, the summer. Opera festivals,
Musicals, Opera which performs in the University such as the Mozart Festival
and Ballet Hall. Classical music shows are in Warsaw, and Poznan’s
Musicals, opera and ballet can held in museums, churches ballet festivals are also popular.
provide the best form of enter- and palaces throughout the For those interested in religious
tainment even for those who year. In the rest of the country, music, the Wratislava Cantans
do not speak Polish. Operettas many bands perform the are held in September in
and musicals are performed at traditional folk music of individual Wrocław. Jazz festivals are
Opera i Operetka in Krakow regions, but it can be difficult also quite renowned in
and at Roma in Warsaw. For to track down their concerts. Poland and major events
opera-lovers, the productions of The best chance of seeing them include the Warsaw Jazz
the Great Theatre (Teatr Wielki) is at various music festivals in Jamboree, Jazz on the Oder
in Warsaw are recommended. the summer. Many folk groups in Wrocław (May) and Jazz
There are also opera houses in also perform in concerts All Souls’ Day in Krakow
Gdańsk, Wrocław, Poznań and organized by hotels or tourist (early November).
DIRECTORY
Markets Antiques Nightlife Musicals, Opera
and Malls and Ballet
Antykwariat Daes Blue Note Club
Galeria Krakowska pl. Kościuszki 15, Wrocław. ∑ bluenote.poznan.pl Opera i Operetka
ul. Pawia 5, Krakow. Tel (071) 343 7280. ul. Lubicz 48, Krakow.
Hybrydy
Tel (012) 428 9900. Tel (012) 296 6100.
∑ hybrydy.com.pl
Gifts and Roma
Hala Targowa Souvenirs In Your Pocket ul. Nowogrodzka
ul. Pańska, Gdańsk. ∑ inyourpocket.com
Bolesławiec 49, Warsaw.
Stary Kleparz ul. Prosta 2/14, Warsaw. Theatre Tel (022) 628 7071.
Rynek Kleparski, Krakow. Tel (022) 624 8408. Teatr Wielki
Ateneum pl. Tatralny 1, Warsaw.
Złote Tarasy
Jewellery ul. Jaracza 2, Warsaw. Tel (022) 692 0200.
ul. Złota 59, Warsaw.
Tel (022) 625 2421.
Tel (022) 222 2200. Bursztynowa
Komnata Cultural Information Classical and
Art and Crafts ul. Długie Pobrzeże Centre Folk Music
1, Gdańsk. ul. św Jana 2, Krakow. Filharmonia Bałtycka
Art Gallery ZPAP Tel (058) 346 2717. ∑ karnet.krakow.pl ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk.
ul. Krakowskie
Kasy ZASP Tel (058) 320 6262.
Przedmieście 17, Warsaw. Nord Amber Gallery
Tel (022) 828 5170. ul. Mariacka 44/45, al. Jerozolimskie 25, National
Gdańsk. Warsaw. Philharmonic
Cepelia Tel (058) 305 5550. Tel (022) 621 9454. Orchestra
∑ cepelia.pl ul. Sienkiewicza
Teatr Stary
Food and Drink 10, Warsaw.
Kocioł Artystyczny pl. Szczepański 1,
ul. Sławkowska 14 (1st Tel (022) 551 7111.
Wedel Krakow. Tel (012) 422
floor), Krakow. ul. Szpitalna 8, Warsaw. 4040. Poznań Philharmonia
Tel (012) 429 1797. Tel (022) 827 2916. ul. św Marcin 81, Poznań.
Teatr Żydowski Tel (061) 852 4708.
Zapiecek Wawel pl. Grzybowski
ul. Zapiecek 1, Warsaw. Rynek Główny 33, Krakow. 12/16, Warsaw.
Tel (022) 831 9918. Tel (012) 423 1247. Tel (022) 620 6281.
220 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Warsaw Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Chmielna Guesthouse
B&B Map D4 under 200 zloty
ul. Chmielna 13, 00-021 200 to 400 zloty
over 400 zloty
Tel (022) 828 1282
∑ www.chmielnabb.pl
Small, but charming rooms (some MALBORK: Stary Malbork
with shared facilities) grouped Historic
around a common lounge. ul. 17 Marca 26, 82-200
Tel (055) 647 2400
∑ hotelstarymalbork.com.pl
DK Choice A 19th-century Roman-Gothic
Rialto building with comfortable
Design rooms, many with big half-
ul. Wilcza 73, 00-670 moon windows. It also boasts
Tel (022) 584 8700 a small bar, restaurant and
∑ hotelrialto.com.pl cosy fireplace.
Within walking distance of
the central station, this elegant POZNAŃ: IBB Andersia
hotel has an Art Deco theme. Art Deco interior at the Rialto Design
Every detail down to the light in Warsaw Plac Andersa 3, 61-894
fittings, faithfully reproduces Tel (061) 667 8000
the “Roaring Twenties”. Modern GDAŃSK: Podewils ∑ andersiahotel.pl
amenities and helpful staff. Boutique Map E4 Located in Poznań's tallest
ul. Szafarnia 2, 80-755 building, the Andersia Tower,
Tel (058) 300 9560 this superbly-equipped hotel
Sofitel Victoria ∑ podewils.pl offers minimalist rooms with
Business Map C3 Full of antiques and oil paintings, this great views.
ul. Królewska 11, 00-065 Baroque-style old-world residence
Tel (022) 657 8011 overlooks Gdańsk's marina. SOPOT: Villa Baltica
∑ sofitel.com Luxury
Facing central Warsaw’s lush KRAKOW: Mundo Hostel ul. Emiliii Plater 1, 81-777
Saxon Gardens, Sofitel offers well- Hostel Map D5 Tel (058) 555 2800
furnished rooms with all amenities. ul. Sarego 10, 31-047 ∑ villabaltica.com
Tel (012) 422 6113 Chic rooms, some with sea
Hotel Bristol ∑ mundohostel.eu views, in a historic building
Historic Map D3 Comfortable boutique hostel that also boasts of a modern
Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44, 00/325 with ethnic textiles and objets spa centre, which offers
Tel (022) 551 1000 d’art. Offers private double rooms. a full range of luxury
∑ hotelbristolwarsaw.pl beauty treatments.
Luxurious fin de siècle building KRAKOW: Pollera
with a guest list that spans Historic Map D5 TORUŃ: Petite Fleur
presidents and rock stars. ul. Szpitalna 32, 31-024 Boutique
Tel (012) 422 1044 Piekary 25, 87-100
∑ pollera.com.pl Tel (056) 621 5100
An Art-Nouveau classic, Pollera ∑ petitefleur.pl
Rest of Poland was opened in 1834 and has Intimate Old-Town hotel
welcomed guests with style with smart en suites, attention-
GDAŃSK: Happy Seven and grace ever since. to-detail service and a
Hostel Map E2 good restaurant.
ul. Grodzka 16, 80-841
Tel (058) 320 8601 DK Choice WROCŁAW: Stop Wrocław
∑ happyseven.com KRAKOW: Hotel Stary B&B
Centrally located in a medieval Luxury Map D5 ul. Sienkiewicza 31, 50-349
building offering a mix of private ul. Szczepańska 5, 31-011 Tel 519 115 075
singles, doubles, triples and dorms. Tel (012) 384 0808 ∑ stopwroclaw.pl
∑ stary.hotel.com.pl Pretty 19th-century town house
GDAŃSK: Wolne Miasto Once a merchant’s residence, the near the Botanical Garden, with
Historic Map D4 hotel retains many of the original small, characterful rooms.
ul. Św. Ducha 2, 80-834 features that include high ceilings
Tel (058) 322 2442 and plenty of exposed brick and WROCŁAW: Granary
∑ hotelwm.pl stone. There is a swimming pool Design
A row of reconstructed tenement in an arched red-brick basement. Mennicza 24, 50-057
buildings that hide well-equipped The hotel also offers facilities for Tel (071) 395 2600
rooms. The accommodation saunas and has a spa centre that ∑ thegranaryhotel.com
captures the spirit of pre-War features salt inhalation among Lovingly restored red-brick
Danzig, with sepia photos of its treatments. granary that has luxurious
the city in its heyday. suites, each with a kitchenette.
For map references see pp174–5 (Warsaw), 184–5 (Krakow) & 210–11 (Gdańsk)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 221
CZECH REPUBLIC
The Czech Republic is one of Europe’s youngest states. In the years after World
War II, foreign visitors to what was then Czechoslovakia rarely ventured further
than the capital, Prague. Today, the country’s beautifully preserved medieval
towns, palaces and castles, which were neglected during the Communist era,
are attracting an ever-increasing number of visitors.
Sights at a Glance
1 Prague pp226–55 9 Český Krumlov pp272–3
2 Karlštejn Castle pp256–7 0 Telč
3 Kutná Hora pp258–9 q Třebíč Beautifully restored house,
w Znojmo Český Krumlov
4 Hradec Králové pp260–61
e Mikulov
5 České Švýcarsko pp262–3
r Brno pp276–7
6 Karlovy Vary pp264–5
t Kroměříž
7 Plzeň pp266–9
y Olomouc pp278–9
8 České Budějovice pp270–71
České
Švýcarsko
Liberec
GERMANY Děčín
13
Teplice
Terezín Turnov
PO L AN D
Chomutov Mladá
13
D8
Boleslav 33
Karlovy Žatec
Cheb 6 Vary 6 10 Poděbrady Hradec
ře PRAGUE Králové
Oh
20
D11 Or
27
lic
21
Marienbad 12
e
D5 Kutná Hora
D1
Plzeň
Karlštejn Ostrava
D5
37
Castle
D1
26 Svitavy
Bohemia
a
av
Humpolec Olomouc 47
Vlt
Příbor
27
Hranice
Moravia
Tabor
Klatovy Písek 34 Jihlava D1
19
Strákonice Jindřichův Brno Kroměříž
Hradec D1
Buchlovice
22
23
Třebíč
4
České Telč 38
Budějovice
D2
Malse
AUS TRI A
0 km 100
0 miles 100
Key
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Railway
The magnificent Town Hall on Horní náměstí, Olomouc International border
1 Prague
The capital of the Czech Republic, Prague has a population
of just over one million. In the late Middle Ages, during the
reign of Charles IV, Prague’s position at the crossroads of
Europe led it to evolve into a magnificent city, larger than
Paris or London. In the 16th century, it was taken over by the
Austrian Habsburgs, who built many of the Baroque palaces
and gardens that delight visitors today. Some of these now
house important museums. The fascinating Jewish Quarter
has a handful of synagogues and a cemetery that remarkably The Three Fiddles, an old house sign in
survived the Nazi occupation. Despite neglect under Nerudova ulice
Communist rule, the historic centre of the city has been
preserved, making Prague one of the most beautiful
and interesting of all European capitals.
CHOTKOV
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The historic centre of Prague
covers a relatively small area and VÍTĚZNÁ
is best explored on foot. Prague’s
subway, or metro, is the fastest way
of getting to other parts of the city.
It has three lines, A, B and C, and 61
stations. Line A covers the majority
of the city centre. There is an efficient
network of buses and trams. Trams
operate during the night as well. Key
Routes 14, 17 and 22 pass many Street-by-Street area: see pp228–9
major sights on both banks of the
Street-by-Street area: see pp242–3
Vltava. While the metro and trams
serve the city centre, buses are Major sight / Place of interest
used to reach the suburbs. Pedestrian street
Sights at a Glance
1 Prague Castle Picture Gallery r Charles Bridge pp240–41 l Estates Theatre
2 Old Royal Palace t Old Town Hall pp244–5 z Municipal House pp252–3
3 St Vitus’s Cathedral pp232–3 y Celetná ulice x Wenceslas Square
4 St George’s Basilica and u Church of Our Lady before Týn c Church of Our Lady
Convent i Church of St James of the Snows
5 Zlatá ulička o Convent of St Agnes v National Museum
6 Castle Square p Spanish Synagogue b Mucha Museum
7 Sternberg Palace pp234–5 a Old-New Synagogue pp248–9 n Charles Square
8 Nerudova ulice s Jewish Town Hall m U Fleků
9 Strahov Monastery d Maisel Synagogue , National Theatre
0 Petřín Hill f Old Jewish Cemetery
q Little Quarter Square g Pinkas Synagogue
w Church of St Nicholas pp238–9 h Museum of Decorative Arts
e Wallenstein Palace and j Karlova ulice 0 metres 200
Gardens k Church of St Giles 0 yards 200
TIŠK U
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Street-by-Street: Prague
Castle
The history of Prague began with the foundation of Prague
Castle in the 9th century. Despite fires and invasions, the
castle has retained churches, chapels and towers from every
period of its history, from the Gothic splendour of St Vitus’s
Cathedral (see pp232–3) to the 16th-century Renaissance
additions. The courtyards date from 1753–75, when the whole
area was rebuilt in the late-Baroque and Neo-Classical styles.
The castle became the seat of the Czechoslovak president
in 1918 and the current president of the Czech Republic has
an office here.
3 . St Vitus’s Cathedral
The Powder Tower, used in the past This relief in the Gothic St Vitus’s
for storing gunpowder and as a bell Cathedral decorates the
foundry, is now a museum. Golden Portal.
President’s Office
To Royal Garden
Second courtyard
Matthias Gate
First courtyard
To Castle Square
Third courtyard
Church of the
Holy Rood
Castle Gates
The gates of the castle
are crowned by copies of
18th-century statues called
Fighting Giants by Ignaz Platzer.
South Gardens
Here 18th-century statues
stand along the old ramparts.
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
PRAGUE 229
4 . St George’s
Basilica
The superb vaulted
chapel of the royal
Bohemian martyr
St Ludmila is decorated
with 16th-century
paintings.
5 . Zlatá Ulička
White Tower The picturesque artisans’ cottages
along the inside of the castle wall
were built in the late 16th century for
the castle’s guards and gunners.
KÁ
ŘS
JI
Dalibor Tower takes its name
from the first man to be
imprisoned in it.
4 St George’s
Convent
The convent houses
19th-century Czech
art such as a piece
titled Summer
Countryside with
Chapel by Adolf
Kosárek.
2 . Old Royal
0 metres 60
Palace
The uniform exterior 0 yards 60
of the palace conceals
many Gothic and
Renaissance halls.
Coats of arms cover Key
the walls and ceiling Suggested route
of the Room of the
New Land Rolls.
230 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
3 St Vitus’s Cathedral
chrám sv Víta
Rose Window
Designed by František Kysela in
the 1920s, the window above the
portals depicts scenes from the
biblical story of the Creation.
Gargoyles
On the ornate west front,
gutter spouts are given
their traditional disguise
as gargoyles. Main entrance
1619 Calvinists
c.925 Rotunda 1359 Masterbuilder take over
of St Vitus built by Peter Parler cathedral 1929 Consecration of
St Wenceslas summoned to as house completed cathedral,
continue work on of prayer nearly 1,000 years after
the cathedral Bust of Peter Parler death of St Wenceslas
on triforium
1000 1200 1400 1600 1800
1872 Joseph
1589 Royal tomb Mocker
1060 Building of completed begins work
triple-aisled 1344 King John of on west nave
basilica begins Luxembourg founds Gothic 1421 Hussites
on orders of cathedral. French architect occupy 1770 New steeple added
Prince Spytihněv Matthew of Arras begins work St Vitus’s to tower after fire
. Flying Buttresses
The slender buttresses that
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
surround the exterior of the
Practical Information
nave and chancel, supporting
Prague Castle, third courtyard.
the vaulted interior, are
Map B3.
richly decorated.
Cathedral: Open Apr–Oct:
9am–5pm Mon–Sat; Nov–Mar:
9am–4pm Mon–Sat. Great South
Tower: Open 9am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: till 5pm. & 7 5
∑ hrad.cz
Transport
v 22 to Pražský hrad.
q Hradčanská, Malostranská.
. Chapel of
St Wenceslas
The opulent, jewel-
studded chapel,
home to the
saint’s tomb, is
the highlight of a
visit to St Vitus’s
Cathedral. This
bronze ring hangs
on the chapel’s
north portal.
. Golden Portal
Until the 19th century, this
was the main cathedral
entrance and it is still used
on special occasions. Above
it is a mosaic of The Last
Judgment by 14th-century
Venetian craftsmen.
KEY
1 Nave
2 West front
3 Twin west spires
4 Triforium
5 The Renaissance bell tower
is capped with a Baroque “helmet”.
6 Chancel
Gothic Vaulting
The skills of architect Peter 7 To Old Royal Palace (see p230)
Parler are clearly seen in the 8 The tomb of St Wenceslas
delicate fans of ribbing that is connected to an altar, decorated
support the three Gothic with semi-precious stones.
arches of the Golden Portal.
234 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
7 Sternberg Palace
šternberský palác
First floor
Garden Room
Stairs to
second floor
Passageway to
Ticket Office Castle Square
Transport
v 22. q Malostranská,
Hradčanská.
Chinese
Cabinet
Second
floor Gallery Guide
The gallery is arranged on
three floors around the central
courtyard of the palace. The
ground floor, reached from the
courtyard, houses German and
Austrian art from the 15th to
19th centuries. The stairs to the
upper floors are just beyond the
ticket office. The first and second
floors have works of art from
Stairs down to
various European countries.
other floors
and exit . Head of Christ
Painted by El Greco in the 1590s,
this portrait emphasizes the
humanity of Christ. At the same
time the curious square halo Key
gives the painting the qualities German and Austrian Art
of an ancient icon. 1400–1800
Flemish and Dutch Art 1400–1600
Italian Art 1400–1500
Roman Art
Flemish and Dutch Art 1600–1800
French Art 1600–1800
Icons, Classical and Ancient Art
Venice 1700–1800 and Goya
. The Martyrdom of Spanish Art 1600–1800
St Thomas (1636) Naples and Venice 1600–1700
This magnificent work is by Peter
Paul Rubens, a Flemish Baroque Italian Art 1500–1600
painter from the 17th century. Non-exhibition space
236 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
8 Nerudova Ulice
Map B3. v 12, 20, 22.
q Malostranská.
w Church of St Nicholas
Kostel sv Mikuláše
Baroque Organ
A fresco of St Cecilia watches over the superb
organ, built in 1746 by Tomás Schwarz. There
were originally three Schwarz organs here.
KEY
1 Chapel of St Catherine
2 Chapel of St Anne
3 Entrance from west side of
Little Quarter Square
4 The dome was completed by Façade
Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer in 1751, St Paul, by John Frederick
shortly before his death. Kohl, is one of the statues
5 The belfry, added in 1751 and that grace the curving façade.
1756, was the last part to be built. It was completed in 1710
Visitors can climb up it to admire by Christoph Dientzenhofer,
the view. who was influenced by Italian
architects Borromini and Guarini.
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
PRAGUE 239
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Malostranské náměstí.
Map C3. Tel 257 534 215.
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm daily;
Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily.
& 8 ^ 5 Concerts.
∑ psalterium.cz
Transport
v 12, 20, 22 to Malostranské
náměstí. q Malostranská.
. Dome Fresco
Franz Palko’s superb fresco, The Celebration
of the Holy Trinity (1753–4), fills the 70-m
(230-ft) high dome.
High Altar
. Statues of the Eastern A copper statue of St Nicholas by
Church Fathers Ignaz Platzer (1717–87) surmounts
The impressive statues of the church the high altar. Below it is the
fathers, which stand at the four corners painting of St Joseph by Johann
of the crossing, are the work of Lukas Kracker.
Ignaz Platzer.
r Charles Bridge
Karlův most
Prague’s most familiar monument was built by Peter Parler
(see p232) for Charles IV in 1357 after the Judith Bridge was
destroyed by floods. It connects the Old Town (Staré Město)
with the Little Quarter (Malá Strana) and was the only bridge
across the Vltava until 1741.
Malá Strana
Malá Strana
Bridge Tower
St Adalbert, (1709)
Judith Bridge Adalbert, Bishop of Prague,
Tower, 1158 founded St Lawrence Church on
Petřin Hill in 991. The Czechs
know him as Vojtěch.
St Vitus, 1714
St Francis Xavier
St Francis Borgia, 1710 St John the Baptist, 1855 St Joseph with
infant Jesus, 1854
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
PRAGUE 241
Crucifix Tower
For 200 years this entrance
crucifix stood alone on
the bridge. The gilded
Christ dates from 1629
and the Hebrew words
“Holy, Holy, Holy Lord”
were paid for by a Jew as
punishment for blasphemy.
Madonna and
St Bernard, 1709
St Ivo, 1711
Kinský Palace
The palace, built by Kilian Ignaz
Dientzenhofer, has a stucco
façade crowned with statues
of the four elements.
STAROMĚSTSKÉ
The Jan Hus Monument was NÁMĚSTÍ
erected in 1915 on the 500th
anniversary of Jan Hus’s (see
p224) burning at the stake.
MALÉ
NÁMĚSTÍ
Ž
E
L
E
Z
N
Á
Powder Gate, a
much-restored
Týn courtyard Gothic gate, is a relic
of the time when
there was a royal
palace located here,
at the entrance to
the Old Town.
JAKUBSK Á
U
PR
ŠTUPARTSK Á
Aš
NÉ
BR
ÁNY
CELE TN
Á
House of the
Black Madonna
H
TR
Ý
CN
VO
O
y Celetná Ulice
l Estates Theatre
This ornamental Baroque
featured in Miloš Forman’s
plaque is the emblem of
1984 film, Amadeus.
the House at the Black
Sun, on the famous
Celetná ulice.
The Carolinum
This was the heart of the
university founded by 0 metres 100
Charles IV in 1348. A carved
0 yards 100
Oriel window projects from
the oldest surviving part.
244 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Oriel Chapel
Old Town Coat of Arms The original stained-glass
Above the inscription, windows on the five-sided
“Prague, Head of the chapel were destroyed in the
Kingdom”, is the coat of last days of World War II, but
arms of the Old Town, which were replaced in 1987.
was adopted in 1784 for
the whole city.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Staroměstské náměstí 1.
Map E3. Tel 236 002 629.
Open Halls: 9am–6pm daily
(11am Mon); Tower: 9am–10pm
daily (11am Mon). & 8 7
∑ staromestskaradnicepraha.cz
Transport
q Staroměstská, Můstek.
v 17, 18.
. Astronomical Clock
Mechanical figures
perform above
the zodiac signs
in the upper
section; the
lower section
is a calendar.
KEY
Right-hand
a Old-New Synagogue Nave
Staronová synagóga The glow from
the chandeliers
Built around 1270, this is the oldest synagogue provides light for
in Europe and one of the earliest Gothic buildings worshippers, who
sit in the seats
in Prague. The synagogue has survived fires, the
lining the walls.
slum clearances of the 19th century and many
Jewish pogroms. Residents of the Jewish Quarter
have often had to seek refuge within its walls and
it is still the religious centre for Prague’s Jews. It
was originally called the New Synagogue until
another synagogue, which was later destroyed,
was built nearby.
. Jewish Standard
The historic banner
of Prague’s Jews is
decorated with a Star
of David, within which
the hat that had to
be worn by Jews in
the 14th century
is depicted.
. Five-rib Vaulting
Two massive octagonal
pillars inside the hall
support the five-rib vaults:
one rib was added to the
traditional four ribs.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Červená. Map D3 & E3.
Tel 224 800 812. Open Apr–Oct:
9:30am–6pm Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar:
9:30am–5pm. Closed Jewish
hols. & ^ u 7:30am Mon–Fri,
9am Sat. ∑ synagogue.cz
Transport
v 17, 18 to Staroměstská, 17 to
Law Faculty. q Staroměstská.
East Façade
The east and west
façades possess an
austerity that is in
contrast with the
Gothic interior. Exterior of Maisel Synagogue, rebuilt in
Gothic style
d Maisel
Synagogue
Maiselova synagóga
Maiselova 10. Map E3.
q Staroměstská. v 17, 18. @ 207.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Sun–Fri;
Nov–Mar: 9am–4:30pm Sun–Fri.
Closed Jewish hols. & ^ 7
∑ jewishmuseum.cz
hMuseum of
Decorative Arts
Uměleckoprůmyslové muzeum
17 Listopadu 2. Map D3.
Tel 251 093 111. @ 207. v 17, 18.
q Staroměstská. Open 10am–6pm
Wed–Sun, 10am–7pm Tue. & 7 ^
- ∑ upm.cz
j Karlova Ulice
Map D4. q Staroměstská.
z Municipal House
Obecní dům
Prague’s most prominent Art Nouveau building
was built between 1905 and 1911 on the site of
the former royal palace. On 28 October 1918, the
Municipal House was the scene of the proclamation
of the new independent state of Czechoslovakia. The
flamboyant interior, decorated with works by leading
Czech artists, including Alfons Mucha, is well worth
visiting. It includes Prague’s top concert venue, as
well as other smaller halls, a restaurant and café.
. Mayor’s Salon
This splendid room has furniture
by J Krejčuk and murals depicting
Czech heroes by Alfons Mucha – a
Czech master of Art Nouveau.
Main Hall
Lifts in the main hall have
beautiful Art Nouveau details
and ornaments.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Náměstí Republiky 5.
Map F3. Tel 222 002 101.
Gallery: Open only during guided
tours: 10am–7pm daily. 8 by
arrangement. 7 0 -
∑ obecnidum.cz
Transport
v 5, 8, 24, 26. q Náměstí
Republiky.
b Mucha Museum
Muchovo muzeum
Panská 7. Map F4. Tel 224 216 415.
v 3, 9, 14, 24, 26. q Můstek,
Náměstí Republiky. Open 10am–6pm
daily. 8 - 7 ∑ mucha.cz
The 18th-century Kaunicky
Palace is home to the Mucha
Museum, dedicated to Alfons
Mucha (1860–1939), the Czech
master of Art Nouveau. The
exhibits include personal mem-
orabilia, paintings, drawings,
photographs – some taken by
Mucha – and also a docu-
mentary film. The artist’s time
spent in Paris is well docu-
mented. During summer, the
museum’s central courtyard is
The towering Church of Our Lady of the Snows converted into a café.
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
PRAGUE 255
n Charles Square
Karlovo náměstí
Map E5. v 3, 4, 6, 10, 16, 18, 21, 22,
24. q Karlovo náměstí.
2 Karlštejn Castle
hrad Karlštejn
This Gothic castle is one of the most visited historic sites in the
country. It was built for the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV in
1348 as a royal residence and a treasury where the imperial
insignia and crown jewels as well as documents, works of art
and holy relics were stored. In the 16th century, Karlštejn was
remodelled in the Renaissance style. The castle was restored in
the 19th century by Josef Mocker, who returned the building
to its original appearance.
Voršilka Tower
The Voršilka Tower was once the castle’s main
entrance. Now the entrance is via the gate below
the tower, and along the former moat.
Transport
£ from Prague.
St Catherine’s Chapel
Used as a place of meditation
by Charles IV, this tiny chapel has
walls that are richly decorated with
paintings and semi-precious stones.
Madonna Statue
The 14th-century marble
statue of the Madonna,
in the royal bedchamber,
belonged to King Charles IV.
KEY
3 Kutná Hora
A rich source of silver between the 13th and
18th centuries, Kutná Hora was the second
most important town in Bohemia, after Prague.
Its wealth funded many beautiful buildings,
including St Barbara’s Cathedral (sv Barbora);
the Italian Court (Vlašský Dvůr), which housed
the royal mint and later the Town Hall; the
14th-century Church of St James (sv Jakub) and
the 15th-century Stone House (Kamenný Dům).
Since 1995 the historic centre of Kutná Hora
Cathedral’s Front Façade
has been on the UNESCO Cultural Heritage List. In 1388, German architect Peter
Located to the northeast of the centre is the Parler planned this five-aisled
suburb of Sedlec, home to an extraordinary building, with three
ossuary where bones accumulated over cen- tented spires.
turies were put together by carver František
Rint in 1870 to form crosses, a coat of arms
and a chandelier.
. Vault
The central nave,
with its magnificent
geometric vaulted
ceiling, was designed
in the early 16th
century by Benedikt
Ried. It incorporates
coats of arms from
local crafts guilds.
Organ
The Baroque organ
case dating from 1740–60
hides a much newer
mechanism installed in the early
20th century by local organ maker
Jan Tuček.
St Barbara’s Cathedral
Dedicated to the patron saint of miners, St Barbara’s
Cathedral is one of Europe’s most spectacular Gothic
churches. Both the interior and exterior are richly
ornamented, and the huge windows ensure it is filled
with light. Many of the side chapels are decorated with
interesting frescoes, some of which depict miners at work
and men striking coins in the mint, reflecting the sources
of the town’s wealth.
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
CZECH REPUBLIC 259
Pulpit
The pulpit dating from 1655
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
is decorated with four stone
Practical Information
reliefs, depicting the four
70 km (45 miles) E of Prague.
Evangelists. It was produced in
* 21,000. n Palackého
1566 by Master Leopold.
náměstí 377, 327 512 378.
Cathedral: Open 9am–6pm daily.
& Ossuary: Open daily. &
∑ kutnahora.cz
Transport
£ @ from Prague.
Oak Stalls
The late 15th-century stalls,
originally designed for St Vitus’s
Cathedral in Prague, feature
Gothic spired canopies and
carved balustrades.
Stained-glass
Window
The Art Nouveau
stained-glass windows
designed by František
Urban were added in
the early 20th century.
. High Altar
The central scene of the Neo-Gothic
high altar (1901–5), a replica of the
original, depicts the Last Supper.
Balustrade
The stone balustrade of the presbytery
includes the initials of King Vladislav
Jagiello (“W”) and his son Ludwig (“L”).
260 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Hradec Králové
Town Centre
1 Big Square
SMET
Ghost NÁMĚSTÍ
5 KVĚTNA A
TŘ ŠIMKOV
ÍDA
3 White Tower KA
O NÁ
RLA Former
IV
4 Church of the
NÁBŘEŽÍ
Synagogue
DIVIŠOVA S KÉ ARM
VEN
BŘE
MASARYKOVO LO ÁDY
Assumption of the NÁMĚSTÍ ČES
KOS LO
VA
PÍŠ
PO S
ŽÍ
R O VA PE
Ú ZKÁ
Prague ČK NÁMĚSTÍ
7 Museum of Eastern NOVÉ NÁMĚSTÍ Bridge T O M K O VA
U
SVOBODY Modern
Bohemia MĚSTOH Town Hall Art Gallery
A
ÁC
IPK
Í
8 Prague Bridge VL
EŽ
be
La
Cathedral of the
VO
KY
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CA
TY
NO
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VA
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NA
NA
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BA
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LB
I. H ER M
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Orlice
0 metres 200 U PŘÍVO Z U
N Á BŘ EŽ Í BRN
ĚNS
KÁ
0 yards 200
5 České Švýcarsko
Famous for its extraordinary natural beauty, České
Švýcarsko is a landscape of forests and fantastically
shaped sandstone rocks, criss-crossed by gorges and
ravines. Attracting visitors as early as the 19th century,
a section of the region was designated a national park
in 2000. Spread over an area of 79 sq km (30 sq miles)
the geological park contains some of the area’s
most spectacular natural treasures and is a haven
for wildlife.
Pravčická Brána
This is the largest natural rock bridge
in Central Europe, at 26 m (85 ft)
long, 7–8 m (25 ft) wide, and rising
to a height of 16 m (52 ft).
Museum.
Mezní Louka
Hřensko
Dĕčin Mezná
12km (7 miles)
Kame
nice
Saunstejn
Kamenická
Stráň
Kamenice Gorge
This narrow gorge runs
between vertical walls
of rocks, 50–150 m
(165–500 ft) high.
Boat trips go up- or
downstream. The
Tichá Soutěska footpath along its
Known as the “quiet gorge”, this banks was built in
section of Kamenice Gorge the 19th century by
stretches for 960 m (3,150 ft). Italian workers.
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
CZECH REPUBLIC 263
Wildlife in the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
National Park
České Švýcarsko National
Practical Information
Park is home to a range of
144 km (89 miles) N of Prague.
animal species including
n Hřensko 82, 412 554 286.
the European beaver, river
National Park Museum: Falcon’s
otter and lynx, which
Nest. Tel 604 238 209. Open Apr–
settled here in the 1930s, as
Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
well as the Alpine chamois,
10am–4pm daily. &
introduced in 1907.
∑ pbrana.cz
Transport
@ from Děčín.
Sokolí vrch
486 m
(1,594 ft) Trails
A network of clearly
Doubice
signposted hiking and
cycling trails covers the
entire area of the park.
Ostroh
J
484 m
(1,588 ft)
e
J
ng
é Ra
v ick
Šaunštejn ho
t řic
Je
Vysoká Jetřichovice
Lípa Rynartice
Šaunštejn
This high rock platform, which was
once the site of the small Šaunštejn
Castle, can be reached by a series
of vertical stepladders.
0 km 1
0 miles 1
Key
Jetřichovice
Road
This scenic village, whose timber houses provide
accommodation to many walkers, makes a good Trail
base for forays into the Jetřichovické Range. Summit
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
126 km (78 miles) W of Prague.
* 53,600. n Smetanovy sady
1145/1, (355) 321 171.
_ International Film Festival
(late Jun–Jul). ∑ karlovyvary.cz
Transport
£ main and local stations.
Columns of the Mill Spring Colonnade @ Varšavská.
LO
A
VA
Á
DO V
V
SK
5 Market Colonnade
JIŘ
SA
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LÍ
H
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KRÁLE
D
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Mill Spring C
6 Mill Spring Colonnade
Á
Church of E
BŘ
Paul KÉ
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V V R C CKÝ
DÉ
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8 Church of Sts Peter and Paul
LN
T
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Í
ŇSKÁ
Te p á
Colonnade
ZE
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KŘ I Ž Í K O
V
LÁ
KOLM Á
ÍŠT É
Church of St Mary
KOSTELNÍ Magdalene
TRŽ
NÁMĚSTÍ
MO
R AV
0 metres 200 SKÁ
NA
0 yards 200 A DIVADELNÍ
I
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UŠ
U NÁMĚSTÍ
LIB
LO
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Á UK Karlovy Vary
ST LO
VÁ Theatre
NO
Karlovy Vary ŠK TYL
OV
Museum RO
A
Diana U
PO
Viewpoint MAR
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KOL
Á
Te
pl
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SK
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Á
Imperial
Baths
P Town Hall
Náměstí Republiky.
Open 8am–6pm daily.
The lovely Renaissance Town
Hall (Stará radnice) was designed
by Italian architect Giovanni de
Statio. This four-storey edifice
with its spectacular gables was
built between 1554 and 1559.
The interesting sgraffito deco-
rations on the façade are the work
of J Koul, produced between
1907 and 1912. Standing in front
of the Town Hall is the Plague
Column built in 1681. It was
erected to give thanks for the
The distinctive Plague Column on relative mildness of the epidemic
Náměstí Republiky suffered at that time. Onion-domed twin towers of the
Great Synagogue
P Republic Square P Imperial House
The market square of Plzeň, Náměstí Republiky 41. F Tyl Theatre
(Náměstí Republiky) is one Located to the west of the Town Smetanovy sady 16.
of the largest in the Czech Hall, this Renaissance edifice Tel 378 038 070. ∑ djkt-plzen.cz
Republic, covering an area of (Císařský Dům), dating from This theatre (divaldo JK Tyla) is
2.5 ha (6.5 acres). Standing at 1606, played host to Emperor named after Josef Kajetan Tyl,
its centre is the Cathedral of Rudolph II twice. Today, it houses Czech playwright and novelist,
St Bartholomew. The square the tourist information office. and a champion of national
is fringed by a number of The adjacent Pechlátovský culture in the 19th century.
beautiful houses, with the House (Pechlátovský dům) This Neo-Classical-style building
best-preserved along was created by combining was erected in 1902 and, like
the southern side. two Renaissance buildings the National Theatre (see p255) in
Particularly striking is and adding a Neo-Classical Prague, its design was intended
the Red Heart House façade to them. to symbolize and reinforce Czech
(U červeného srdce), patriotism. The figures on the
built in 1894 and u Great Synagogue theatre’s façade are allegories of
sporting magnificent Sady Pětatřicátníků 11. opera and drama. The beautiful
sgraffito. Painted by Tel 377 235 749. Open Apr–Oct: stage curtain was painted by
Mikuláš Aleš, the wall 10am–6pm Sun–Fri. Closed Augustin Němejc.
decoration shows Jewish festivals.
two mounted knights The world’s third largest R Franciscan Monastery and
in full tournament sacred Jewish building, Church of the Assumption
gear. The Bhishoprie after the synagogues in Františkánská.
(Biskupství) is located Jerusalem and Budapest This early-Gothic monastery
on the west side of (see p341), the Great (Františkánský klášter s kostelem
the square. A market Synagogue (Velká Nanebevzetí) is one of the oldest
is occasionally held in synagóga) was built in the buildings in the city. Off the
the square. 1890s. It was funded by lovely cloisters is the 13th-century
donations from the Plzeň Chapel of St Barbara; the chapel
R Cathedral of Jewish community. Its is decorated with frescoes from
St Bartholomew A statue on architect, Rudolf Štech, around 1460. The monastery’s
See pp268–9. Císařský dům designed it in a Moorish- Church of the Assumption has a
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
CZECH REPUBLIC 267
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
92 km (57 miles) SW of Prague.
* 170,000. n Náměstí
Republiky 41, 378 035 330.
Open Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm daily;
Oct–Mar: 9am–6pm daily.
( occasionally (during festivals).
_ Beer Festival (early Oct).
∑ plzen.eu
Transport
£ Nádražní 102/9.
Frescoes in the Franciscan Monastery @ Husova 2713/60
TYRŠ
5 Great Synagogue O VA
ÁT N
KOVA
KÁ N SKIN I-
6 Tyl Theatre
Á
TŘÍC
DOM
SEDLÁČ
AV ÍN OV Brewery Museum
A
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Cathedral of St PR AŽ SK
Á
T
Bartholomew
Y
9 Brewery Museum
R
Great
ŠO
REPUBLIC DŘ EV EN
Synagogue Á Pilsner Urquell
0 Pilsner Urquell Brewery SQUARE
V
PR EŠ O
A
VS KÁ Brewery
JE
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Á
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Tyl PRA
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Theatre Á U
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AV
db
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N O VA
Ra
AN
JU NG M AN
AMERICKÁ Railway
Station
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
Stained-glass Windows
The striking elongated stained-
glass windows in the aisles
and the presbytery, which
provide the church interior
with beautiful light, were fitted
in the early 20th century.
KEY
1 Main door
2 The tower has a balcony at the
top, which is open to the public.
3 This small tower is over the
main nave.
4 The presbytery was given its
present form in around 1360.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Náměstí Republiky.
Tel 377 236 753.
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sat;
Nov–Mar: Wed–Fri. &
Tower: Open 10am–6pm
daily. & ∑ plzen.eu
. Sternberg Chapel
The Sternberg family founded
this chapel in the early 16th
century. It has a beautiful
altar and marvellous
Renaissance paintings.
Rood Arch
Standing on the beam of
Entrance
the rood arch are figures in
a Calvary scene. The crucifix
was made in the 1470s by the
Bohemian Master of Plzeň.
270 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
P Butchers’ Market
Krajinská 13.
The Renaissance Butchers’
Market (Masné krámy) is now
home to one of the most famous
restaurants, Masné krámy, in
České Budějovice. The building
has three stone masks and the
year of its construction, 1531,
České Budějovice’s Town Square, one of Europe’s largest squares on its façade.
1 Town Square OV
A
NA
HUS
2 Town Hall SA
DE
CH
3 Dominican Monastery and Ml NOV
Á
HRADEBN ýns
Church of the Sacrifice of Í ká
Sto
ka
KÁ
the Virgin
ČESKÁ
NA S
KRAJINS
4 Butchers’ Market
ÉH O
NA
M A
LÝ DE
5 Black Tower H
NÉ
PL A C H
N
RA CH
VĚ ŽE
DE
U Č ER
SK
PIARISTICKÉ
É
6 St Nicholas’s Cathedral
ST
NÁMĔSTĺ
BN
OC
H R OZ NO VÁ
Í
Motorcycle
E
CKÁ
and Church of the Samson’s
Á
A
DR. STEJSKAL
ŠIROKÁ
South Bohemia
Iron Maiden Museum
ZÁTK
O VO N CH
DE
DU
ÁBŘ
EŽI
Mal SA
KE
0 metres 200 še
NA
LS
KÁ
0 yards 200
P Latrán
The old quarter of Latrán was
once a village inhabited by
craftsmen and merchants,
who provided services for the
Part of the façade of the former Jesuit College in ulice Horní Krumlov Castle. It is linked to
For hotels and restaurants see p284 and p285
CZECH REPUBLIC 273
Budějovice
1 Egon Schiele Centre Gate
2 Concord Square
LAT RÁN
3 Church of St Vitus
4 Ulice Horní
5 Latrán Convent of the
6 Krumlov Castle Poor Clares
Castle
Theatre Krumlov
Castle Z ÁMEK ERNÍ
KLÁŠT Brewery
L AT R Á N
L A T R Á N N O VÉ M Ě S T O
D LO U HÁ
NICKÁ
Š I RO K Á
NI
Á
IC
AS
V
DN
Á
SOUKE
O
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’K
RA
KÁN
Egon Schiele J ÍŽ Bus
CONCORD Regional B
Centre O Station
ŘSK
SQUARE Museum
HORN Í
KA
VNITŘNÍ
Á
PL
ÍCK
MĚSTO Church of Á
0 metres 100 St Vitus
0 yards 100
L IN E
CKÁ
0 Telč
161 km (100 miles) SE of Prague.
* 5,600. £ @ n Náměstí
Zachariáše z Hradce 10, 567 112 407.
∑ telc.eu
+ Znojmo Castle
Přemyslovců 8. Tel 515 222 311.
Open Apr: 9am–5pm Sat & Sun;
May–Sep: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Panoramic view of Znojmo, one of Moravia’s oldest towns & 7 limited access.
e Mikulov
251 km (156 miles) SE of Prague.
* 7,000. £ @ n Náměstí 1, 519
510 855. ∑ mikulov.cz
Mikulov Castle, set above the red rooftops of the pretty town of Mikulov
276 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
r Brno
The second largest city in the Czech Republic, Brno occupies
the site of what was in the 9th century the main settlement in
the Great Moravian Empire. Located on the confluence of the
Svitava and Svratka rivers, the city developed at the foot of
Petrov Hill. In 1641 it became the new capital of Moravia but
did not develop significantly until the 19th century. World
War II devastated the city and despite being totally rebuilt,
Brno has never quite regained its former lustre. However, its
buoyant theatre life and museums have made Brno a major
cultural centre. The city’s Old Town is focused around two Sculptures by Anton Pilgram on the Old
squares – Zelný Square and Freedom Square. Town Hall’s doorway
R Augustinian Monastery
Mendlovo náměstí. Tel 543 424 010.
Museum: Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
(to 5pm Nov–Mar). & 7
The Augustinian monastery
(Augustiniánský klášter) has
a fine Gothic church, but it is
famous above all as the place
where Gregor Mendel (1822–
84) discovered and formulated
his theory of genetics. A Museum,
known as the Mendelianum
and dedicated to his work,
is located in the monastery’s
Brno’s Freedom Square, with its Baroque Plague Column west wing.
JAKUBSKÉ
8 Špilberk Í NÁMĚSTÍ
OS
KO
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LN
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Plague MALINOVSKÉHO
Moravian Gallery KOBLIŽNÁ NÁMĚSTÍ
Column
House of the Four Mamlases
Špilberk NÁMĚSTÍ KÁ
KO
New SVOBODY NS
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Town Hall
Moravian Gallery DOMINIKÁNSKÉ K Á
NS
VA
NÁMĚSTÍ PA
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St Michael’s O
OBR A
BEN
ICK
Augustinian Church
OVA
P E L L I C H O VA
A
Reduta
ZELNÝ SQUARE Theatre
PEKAŘSKÁ
Dietrichstein Palace KAPUCÍNSKÉ
NÁMĚSTI
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Á Ž
D RA 200 m (220 yards) Airport
NÁ
10 km (6 miles)
1.
CK
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1. M JE
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KÁ Olomouc
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Bus Station
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SQUARE Chapel
M IC
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Holy Trinity ŠK Church of
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KÁ
public phone booths are found including Lufthansa, operate especially in summer, to book
all over the country. Telefonní flights from the US via another well in advance. Eurolines and
karta (phone cards) are available European city. Student Agency are the main
at post offices and newsstands. Čedaz runs an inexpensive operators of international bus
International calls can be made minibus service from Prague’s routes to Prague.
from public phones, post offices Ruzyně Airport to the city Within the Czech Republic,
or hotels, although the latter centre. Taxis are also available there is an extensive network of
option is expensive. Most post from the airport to Prague. inter-city bus routes operated
offices are open from 8am to 6 by a variety of national and
or 7pm, Monday to Friday, and regional companies. Travelling
on Saturday morning. Známky Rail Travel by bus is cheaper than by train,
(stamps) can be purchased at Prague is connected by rail to and sometimes it is faster.
most newsstands as well as post all the major capitals of Europe. The main bus terminal in
offices. All towns have at least Nearly all international trains Prague is Florenc Station, which
one Internet café. Many hotels arrive at and depart from Hlavní serves international and long-
also offer Internet access. Nádraží, the city’s biggest and distance domestic routes.
busiest station.
The rail network is run by
Arriving by Air Czech Railways, České Dráhy Travelling by Car
The country’s biggest air (ČD), which operates several Well-maintained roads and
transport hub for both types of domestic routes. Express long sections of motorway
international and domestic trains (rychlík) stop only at major make driving one of the best
flights is Prague’s Ruzyně towns and cities and it is best methods of exploring the
Airport, which is about 20 km to reserve a místenka (seat) on country. Visitors driving on
(12 miles) from the city centre. these. Slower, cheaper trains, or Czech roads must carry a valid
The main Czech carrier is Czech osobní, stop at every station and International Driving Permit
Airlines (ČSA), although Prague run on local routes. Czech railway and an ID card. To travel on the
is also served by most major stations are well equipped. motor ways, visitors are required
European airlines as well as a Detailed information on train to purchase a dálniční známka
number of low-cost carriers, services, fares and timetables is (tax disc). These are valid for
including easyJet, Jet2.com available on the ČD website. either 10 days or a month and
and Wizzair from the UK. are available from post offices
Those travelling from and petrol stations.
Australia, New Zealand and Travelling by Bus Most of the major car
Canada will need to fly to Travelling by bus between Prague rental firms, including Avis and
another European capital and and other European cities is Budget, have offices in Prague
take a connecting flight to significantly less expensive than and at Ruzyně Airport, but
Prague. A number of carriers, rail or air travel. It is advisable, hiring is relatively expensive.
DIRECTORY
Documentation New Zealand Facilities for the Rail Travel
∑ mzv.cz Malé náměstí 1, Prague. Disabled
Tel 23 47 84 777.
České Dráhy (ČD)
Prague Organization Tel 840 112 113.
Visitor United Kingdom of Wheelchair Users ∑ cd.cz
Information Thunovská 14, Prague. Benediktská 6, Prague.
∑ czechcentres.cz Tel 257 402 111. Tel 224 827 210. Travelling by Bus
∑ britain.cz
Prague Information Arriving by Air Eurolines
United States ∑ eurolines.co.uk
Service Czech Airlines (ČSA)
Tržiště 15, Prague.
Tel 221 714 444. ∑ csa.cz Travelling by Car
Tel 257 022 000.
∑ praguewelcome.cz
∑ usembassy.cz easyJet Avis
∑ easyjet.com
Embassies Klimentská 46, Prague.
Emergency Jet2.com Tel 221 851 225.
Numbers ∑ jet2.com ∑ avis.cz
Australia
Klimentská 10, Prague. Ambulance Lufthansa Budget
Tel 221 729 260. Tel 112 or 155. ∑ lufthansa.com Ruzyně Airport, Prague.
Tel 235 325 713.
Canada Fire Ruzyně Airport ∑ budget.cz
Muchova 6, Prague. Tel 112 or 150. ∑ prg.aero
Tel 272 101 800. Police Wizzair
∑ canada.cz Tel 112 or 158. ∑ wizzair.com
282 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
also has an active classical companies in the city: the State café and restaurant. It attracts
music scene with the National Opera and the Estates Theatre. many world music artists.
Theatre another superb venue Both stage first-class operas and Agharta Jazz Centrum is Prague’s
for concerts. ballets. The State Opera presents best jazz club. Karlovy láznĕ
Theatre has played an all its performances in the (Charles Spa) is a famous three-
important role in the cultural language in which they are storey club close to the Charles
development of the Czech written, usually Italian. Bridge entrance, with five stages
Republic. Most large towns have offering different kinds of music
a theatre, often a historic building from house to R&B. There are a
with a beautiful interior. Prague’s Music Festivals number of rock venues hosting a
National Theatre is the city’s main Czech music festivals are one of variety of groups, Roxy is one of
drama venue, but there are many the country’s greatest attractions the most popular. Prague also has
mainstream and fringe theatres, for music lovers. Of these the a lively gay and lesbian scene;
such as the Laterna Magika and most famous is the Prague Friends is one of the most
the Komedie Theatre, both of Spring International Music popular gay bars.
which stage more avant-garde Festival. Prague Castle also Most cities and larger towns
productions. Tickets for the stages Strings of Autumn, a have venues with live music at
National Theatre can be purchased traditional music festival held night, mainly performed by local
on the Internet, with group tickets from October to December. bands and musicians. Techno
to the most popular performances and dance is very popular
available well in advance. throughout the country.
As a rule, theatres display the Nightlife Information on events in
plays that are currently in their Every large Czech town has a music Prague can be found in the
repertoire on the front of the club, although Prague naturally weekly English-language Prague
building. Few productions outside has the greatest number. The Post. Other sources of information
Prague are performed in English. best-known cultural centre in the are the leaflets and posters in the
During the 20th century, opera capital is the Palace Akropolis local area. For information on gigs
became popular in Prague and complex, including a theatre, and clubs outside Prague, check
there are now two major opera concert hall, exhibition space, the posters around town.
DIRECTORY
Markets Dorotheum Komedie Theatre Music Festivals
Ovocný trh 2, Prague. Jungmannova 1, Prague.
Havel Market Tel 224 222 734. Prague Spring
Tel 224 216 676.
Havelská, Prague. International Music
∑ divadlokomedie.cz
Pražské Starožitnosti Festival
Prague Market
Mikulandská 8, Prague. Laterna Magika ∑ praguespring.cz
Holešovice, Prague.
Národní 4, Prague.
Tel 224 930 572. Tel 224 930 572. Strings of Autumn
Tel 224 901 448. ∑ strunypodzimu.cz
∑ holesovickatrznice.cz
Food and Drink Municipal House
Glass and Náměstí Republiky 5, Nightlife
Jan Paukert
Ceramics Prague. Tel 222 002 101.
Delicatessen and Agharta Jazz
Český Porcelán Wine Bar ∑ obecnidum.cz Centrum
Perlová 1, Prague. Národní 17, Prague. National Theatre Železná 16, Prague.
Tel 224 210 955. Tel 222 211 275.
Tel 224 222 615. Dvořákova 11, Brno.
∑ agharta.cz
Dana-Bohemia Tel 542 158 111.
Národní 43, Prague. Cinema ∑ ndbrno.cz Friends
Tel 224 214 655. Bartolomějská 11, Prague.
Cinema City Flora National Theatre Tel 226 211 920.
Erpet Bohemia Vinohradská 151, Prague. Národní 2, Prague. ∑ friendsprague.cz
Staromĕstské námĕstí 27,
Tel 255 741 002. Tel 224 901 448.
Prague. Tel 224 229 755. Karlovy Láznĕ
∑ cinemacity.cz ∑ narodni-divadlo.cz
Smetanovo nábreží 198,
Moser
Rudolfinum Prague. Tel 222 220 502.
Na Přikopě 12, Prague. Classical Music,
Alšovo Nábřeží 12,
Tel 224 211 293. Theatre and Palace Akropolis
Prague. Tel 227 059 227. Kubelíkova 27, Prague.
Opera ∑ ceskafilharmonie.cz
Antiques Tel 296 330 911.
Estates Theatre State Opera ∑ palacakropolis.cz
Antikvariát Pražský
Almanach Ovocný trh, Prague. Wilsonova 4, Prague. Roxy
Újezd 26, Prague. Tel 224 901 448. Tel 224 227 266. Dlouhá 33, Prague.
Tel 224 812 247. ∑ narodni-divadlo.cz ∑ opera.cz ∑ roxy.cz
284 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
NEW TOWN: Carlo IV ||| Price Guide
Luxury Map F4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Senovážné náméstí 13, Praha 1 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Tel 224 593 111
∑ prague.boscolohotels.com | under 3,000 Kč
Stylish rooms, Italian opulence || 3,000 to 6,000 Kč
||| over 6,000 Kč
and impressive spa facilities.
OLD TOWN:
La Degustation |||
International Map E3
Haštalská 18, Praha 1
Seating at the well-reviewed Kampa Park in the Little Quarter Tel 222 311 234
Step into La Degustation for
a popular nightclub in the same the ultimate Prague dining
Prague building, so stay after dinner for experience. Expect several
a fun night out. courses of imaginative dishes
LITTLE QUARTER: prepared with skill and verve.
Café Lounge | LITTLE QUARTER:
Café Kampa Park ||| OLD TOWN: Plzeňská |||
Plaská 615/8, Praha 1 Fusion Map C3 Czech Map F3
Tel 257 404 020 Na Kampě 8b, Praha 1 Náměstí republiky 5, Praha 1
A beautiful café with a secret Tel 296 826 102 Tel 222 002 770
courtyard. The great coffee and The place for modern fusion An enjoyable evening is in store
creative menu make this a go-to cuisine with a focus on seafood, at this restaurant with fabulous
place from morning till night. served up in extravagantly Art Nouveau interiors, friendly
decorated rooms on Kampa staff, and authentic Czech dishes.
LITTLE QUARTER: Island, on the Vltava river.
La Terrassa ||
Spanish NEW TOWN: Nota Bene ||
Janáčkovo nábřeží – Dětský Czech Rest of the Czech
ostrov, Praha 5 Mikovcova 4, Praha 2 Republic
Tel 725 161 616 Tel 721 299 131 Closed Sun
Enjoy tapas and other Spanish A rotating beer list and authentic ČESKY KRUMLOV:
fare on a beautifully renovated Czech fare make Nota Bene one Pivovar Eggenberg ||
boat. Attentive staff and a good of the hottest places around. Czech
wine list ensure a stream of Head to the basement beer Latrán 27, 381 01
regular customers. hall for beer and snacks. Tel 380 711 917
Beer sets the tone at this eatery,
OLD TOWN: Lokál | located in the cooling rooms of
DK Choice Czech Map E3 a former brewery. It is a good
LITTLE QUARTER: Dlouhá 33, Praha 1 place to enjoy hearty Czech fare
Lehká Hlava || Tel 222 316 265 that can be washed down with
Vegetarian Map D4 This old-style pub serves Czech local light and dark beers.
Boršov 2/280, Praha 1 classics and lots of refreshing
Tel 222 220 665 Pilsner Urquell beer. Modern KARLSBAD KARLOVY VARY:
One of the best vegetarian lighting and long wooden tables Lázně 5 |||
restaurants in Prague, with a create a cozy but cool ambience. International
creative take on its extensive Smetanovy sady 1145/1, 360 01
menu – ranging from Asian to OLD TOWN: Sansho || Tel 602 266 088
Mexican to Lebanese. The Thai Fusion Located in a historic spa building,
red curry with tofu is a real treat, Petrská 25, Praha 1 this elegant restaurant offers
and the burrito will probably Tel 222 317 425 Closed Sun & Mon traditional Czech fare as well as
force diners to skip dessert. Hip Quality Asian-influenced fusion Mediterranean cuisine. Láznĕ 5
ambience and cool interiors. cuisine in a casual living-room is justly famous for its steaks.
space. The menu depends on
what is fresh at the local market. OLOMOUC:
LITTLE QUARTER: SaSaZu || Svatováclavský Pivovar ||
Asian OLD TOWN: Czech
Bubenské nábřeží 13, Praha 7 Grosseto Marina ||| Mariánská 4, 779 00
Tel 284 097 455 Italian Map D3 Tel 585 207 517
Classic Indonesian, Thai, and Alšovo nábřeží, Praha 1 A centrally located restaurant with
Vietnamese dishes are prepared Tel 605 454 020 a huge range of own-brewed
with flair and served in Oriental- Enjoy superb service, beautiful beers, daily specials, and a long
palace surroundings. There is also river views, and excellent Italian menu of meat and dumplings.
CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE 287
SLOVAKIA
A province of the kingdom of Hungary for nine centuries and part of
Czechoslovakia for 70 years, Slovakia has had a tumultuous past. It gained
independence in 1993 and is now one of Europe’s youngest countries. With
diverse topography, beautifully preserved architecture and rich folk culture,
the country holds a great appeal for visitors.
Exploring Slovakia
Slovakia surprises visitors with its diverse scenery and cultural
wealth. The majority of the historic sights in the capital city of
Bratislava can be found in its compact Old Town centre. Western
Slovakia boasts the city of Trnava, with its many magnificent
Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neo-Classical buildings.
Central Slovakia, regarded as the country’s true heart, is primarily
a mountainous region, encompassing the High Tatra Mountains.
Eastern Slovakia’s towns of Spiš and Levoča are treasure-houses
of the country’s history, while Košice enjoys a well-deserved
reputation as its cultural centre. The country’s well-developed
network of public transport can be used for exploring Tablet in the Church of
the region. St James, Levoča
Sights at a Glance
1 Bratislava pp290–99 6 Levoča
2 Trnava pp300–303 7 Spišská Kapitula
3 Bojnice Castle pp304–305 8 Spiš Castle pp310–11
4 Banská Bystrica 9 Košice pp312–13
5 Tatra Mountains pp306–307
POLAND
Tatra Bardejov 77
11
Mountains Medzilaborce
Lab
18
Oravský
67
73
68
Spiš ore
59
Poprad Castle 74
Žilina D1 c
CZECH 18 Prešov
Martin D1 Humenné
REPUBLIC Levoča 18
D1 Vlkolínec Spišská
65
D1
66
64
Bojnice 72 Kapitula 50
59
Trenčin Košice
Castle Hron
Onda
Bystrica
Zvolen HUNGARY
D2
Vel'ké
50
50
64
Váh
Uherce
Smolenice Lučenec
Trnava
71
Nitra 5 75
1
D1 Levice
75
Galanta Nové 75
BRATISLAVA Zámky
76
Dunajská
64
Streda 63
D a n u be Komárno
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Key
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Railway
Winter landscape in the Tatra Mountains International border
1 Bratislava
Founded by the Celts in the 2nd century BC,
Bratislava is Slovakia’s administrative centre and
has long been the focus of the country’s social and
cultural life. Most of the historic sights are located in
the Old Town centre on the left bank of the Danube
(Dunaj) river. Some of the finest buildings, such as the
Mirbach Palace and the Old Town Hall, can be seen
around Franciscan Square (Františkánské námestie).
The landmark Bratislava Castle is on a hill above the
city. The views from the open-air observation decks
here, or from the restaurant on SNP Bridge (Slovenské Detail of the elegant altarpiece in St Anne’s
Národné Povstanie), are breathtaking. Chapel, St Martin’s Cathedral
HODŽOVO
5 Michael’s Gate NÁMESTIE
6 Bratislava Castle
7 House at the Good
PO
Á
K NSK
LÝ C
Shepherd O
ZI PA
NE
ŠT
A
EJN
OV
8 St Martin’s Cathedral
A
SUCHÉ MÝTO
Á
DR
pp296–7 EV
DY
Á EN
TN Á
EN
9 Slovak National NV
ISA
KO
EJ
K
O
VETE
SK
ZI
Theatre KÁ
A
P ÁL
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Á
DN
RN
TS
ZOC
VO
0 Reduta HO
HOV Á
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A
DJA
BC
OM
O
PO
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A
HURBANOVO NÁMESTIE
NÁMESTIE
ST
KO SNP
ZIA
ŽUPNÉ
NÁMESTIE
VA
OD E
SCH ROV
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Y
P I LÁRI KO
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Á KÁ
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UR
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KL
SK
A
A
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Á U S
ŽIDOVSKÁ
LN ŠK
K
A VŘ
PRIMACIÁLNE
Á
FRANTIŠ-
SK BIELA NÁMESTIE
NA KÁNSKE
NÁMESTIE
S TA R O M
OLNÁ
KOST
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ZÁM O CKÁ
RS SE
PI T
FA DL
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HLAVNÉ
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A DN
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SK Á
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MIKULÁŠ
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VSKÁ
REPO B ÁR
P SK
ZE LENÁ A
VENTÚ R S K
BR
SKA
ÚZKA
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Á
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A
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HVIEZDOSLAVOVO
RUDNAYOVO NÁMESTIE
HO
NÁMESTIE
VÉ
L A
B EB
VO ZÁMO
M O ST O
CKÉ
DNÝ V RCH S C H OD Y
RYBNÉ
SCHOD O
Y PRI NÁMESTIE YH
VÁ
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J VODÁ Á UL
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OV
ŽID Esterházy
RIEČNA
RIGELEHO
ŽIŽKOV
A Palace
NÁMESTIE
L'. ŠTÚRA
N ÁB R A R M G E N L
SVOBODU RÁZUSOVO NÁBREŽIE
D a n u b e
2
Bratislava
50
The historic centre of Bratislava is mostly 503
pedestrianized, so the best way to explore
1
it is on foot. For longer trips within the city 50
504
and into its environs, there is a quick and
S L OVA K I A
49
efficient network of buses, trams and trolley-
buses. These also run at intervals throughout
D2
the night, starting from Námestie SNP. Drivers
Mora
2
D1
50
2
should be aware that it can be difficult to
va
get a parking space, and that leaving a 3 61 62
car illegally parked could incur a heavy Bratislava
fine. From April to October ferries and Dan R1
ub
sightseeing boats operate from a jetty e
9
on the Danube at Fajnorovo Nábrežie. 0 km 10
50
A U S TR I A 0 miles 10
JÁ
Key
NS
A KA
Area of the main map
TN
Ý
M KOLLÁROVO
NÁMESTIE
Á
SOK
VY
M
A
R
Á
IÁ
DN
N
SK
HO
A
BC
O
H
O
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ÉH
O
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A
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PO
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O
A
OV
VÁ
KAMENNÉ
KA NÁMESTIE
IC
ČN
NE
BU
DB
O
KL
A LO
VA
Museum
of Music
Á
SK
IN
UR
LA
O
ÉH
RK
ŠT
GO O
ĒH
Ú
SK
RO
S EN
JE
V
A
KOMENSKÉHO
NÁMESTIE 0 metres 200
A
OV
HO
0 yards 200
LER
MEDEN
CÉ
LA
TA L
PA
VA
O IČ O
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PAL A TOBR BR
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E NÁ
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IE
REŽ
NOVA
B
O NÁ Key
KÉH
VA
NS
VA J A FAJNOROVO NÁBREŽIE
Street-by-Street area: see pp292–3
Major sight / Place of interest
D a n u b e Starý Most Pedestrian street
K A
ČNÍC
ZAMO
4 Mirbach Palace A
K
One of Bratislava’s finest architectural relics, this
S
N
Rococo palace now houses the City Gallery.
SE
D
LÁ
RS
K
A
HLAVNÉ
NÁMESTIE
NÁ RY
LE
ZE BÁ
RS
Hlavné Námestie K
At the centre of A
the main square
is the 1572 Maximilian
Fountain, designed
by Andreas Luttringer,
from where Roland,
a medieval French
knight adopted as
patron by the locals,
surveys the square.
For hotels and restaurants see p318 and p319
B R AT I S L AVA 293
3 . Franciscan Church
Bratislava’s oldest religious building, the Franciscan
Church, was erected in the 13th century. Remodelled
several times, it acquired its Baroque form in
the 18th century.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
UR
ŠU
LÍ
NS
KA
KA
N IC Museum of Music
B UČ The birthplace of Johann
O
LN
Á KL Nepomuk Hummel, a celebrated
STO NE composer and pianist, this
KO IÁL
AC STIE Renaissance house has displays
IM
PR ÁME about his life and works, as
N
well as the history of music
in Bratislava.
RA
DN
IČ
NA
The Museum of
Wine Production, part
of the City Museum,
displays wooden grape
Key
presses that are over 1 Old Town Hall
Suggested route 200 years old. Remodelled and rebuilt many times since the
13th century, the Old Town Hall is now home to
the impressive City Museum, which houses
exhibits related to the history of Slovakia.
294 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
4 Mirbach Palace
Mirbachov Palác
Františkánske námestie 11. Map C4. City
Gallery: Tel (02) 5443 1556. Open 11am–
6pm Tue–Sun. & ∑ gmb.sk
Presbytery
After completing the hall the
builders realized that the
section by the altar was
too small, and added a
presbytery with a fine
net vault. The coat
of arms on the
vault is that of the
Hungarian King
Mátyás Corvinus
(see p321).
. Sculpture of St Martin
Originally made for the main
altar, this statue of St Martin
(1734) by sculptor Georg
Raphael Donner depicts
St Martin in Hungarian
dress, cutting his
cloak to share it
with a beggar.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Rudnayovo náměstí 1.
Map B5. Tel (02) 5443 1359.
Open Apr–Oct: 9–11:30am,
1–6pm Mon–Sat, 1:30–4pm
Sun; Nov–Mar: times vary.
5 7:30am & noon Mon–Sat,
7:45am, 9am, 10:30am, noon,
5pm Sun. &
∑ dom.fara.sk
Interior
In the late 19th century the Baroque
furnishings were replaced with Neo-
Gothic ones and the main altar, along
with its angels paying homage to
St Martin, was removed.
Stained-glass Windows
The stained glass in the presbytery
dates from the second half of
the 19th century and was mostly
produced by the Viennese
company, K Geyling.
. Altar of
St Anne’s Chapel
The central section of
the ornate altarpiece
in St Anne’s Chapel
depicts the scene of
the Crucifixion of Christ.
KEY
1 St Anne’s Chapel
2 The tower, 85 m (280 ft) tall, is
topped with a slender cupola, and
includes a tiny copy of the Hungarian
crown, a reminder that this was once
the venue of royal coronations.
3 The Canons’ Chapel and
the Chapel of the Czech queen
Sophia are adjacent to the sacristy
under the tower.
4 Main portal with Neo-
Gothic vestibule
298 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
e Devín Castle Coat of arms from the well in the courtyard of Red Stone Castle
Hrad Devín
8 km (5 miles) W of Bratislava. Map E2.
French Army during the r Red Stone Castle
Tel (02) 6573 0105. @ 29. 4 from
Napoleonic Wars. In the 19th hrad Červený Kameň
Central Bratislava. Open 10am–5pm century, during the period
155 km (96 miles) N of Bratislava. Map F1.
Tue–Sun (May–Sep: until 7pm Sat & of national rebirth, the castle Tel (033) 690 5803. @ Open May–
Sun). & became a symbol in the Sep: 9am–5pm daily; Oct–Apr: 9:30am–
shaping of Slovak national 3:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 _ Historic
At the confluence of the identity, promoted by L’udovít Fencing festival (May).
Morava and the Danube rivers Štúr, the leader of the Slovak ∑ hradcervenykamen.sk
lie the ruins of Devín Castle, Nationalist Movement (see p288).
perched on a high rock. The During the 1980s the castle The remarkable Red Stone
rock was once the site of a area, separated from Austria Castle is regarded as one
Celtic settlement. Later, the by the Danube, was closed to of the best-preserved castles
Romans built a fortress here the public. Now, it is a popular in Slovakia. A mighty edifice
and in the 9th century, Prince recreational spot for Bratislavans. with four corner towers, it was
Rastislav, king of Great Moravia One section of the castle acquired in the 16th century
between 846 and 870, chose it has been reconstructed, by a German banking family,
for his stronghold. It changed and features the remains of the Fuggers. Anton Fugger, one
hands many times until 1809, a Roman fortress and an of the richest men in 16th-
when it was blown up by the archaeological museum. century Europe, converted the
original 13th-century fort into
a Renaissance castle. When
the Pálffy family took it over in
1580, they converted it into a
Baroque residence.
The castle’s interior includes
finely preserved porcelain and
furnishings while the castle
chapel has lavishly decorated
walls and marble altars. An
unusual feature is the 1656
sala terrena, an artificial grotto
with trompe l’oeil paintings
and stuccoes. The castle also
houses collections from the
Slovak National Museum,
including a gallery of paintings
with portraits of the Habsburgs
and Pálffy family members.
Environs
Častá, about 1 km (0.6 mile)
east of Red Stone Castle, has
been a centre of wine-making
for centuries and several cellars
offer tastings. Its 15th-century
Gothic Church of St Imre has
The ruins of Devín Castle, high above the Danube river interesting medieval paintings.
300 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
2 Trnava
One of Slovakia’s oldest towns, Trnava was granted town
privileges in 1238. In the 16th and 17th centuries, it was the seat
of the Hungarian primate and the headquarters of the Church
of Hungary. Known as the “Slovak Rome”, the town acquired
numerous churches and monasteries. The historic town centre
is enclosed within old walls, forming an almost complete square.
The main Holy Trinity Square is at its heart. The chief attractions
of the town are its religious buildings and relaxed ambience.
É BAŠTY
ORN
HL
IC H
H
3 Church of St Nicholas Cathedral of
BO
O VA
SKÁ
ALID
INV
5 Music Museum
PEK Á R SK
UNIVERZITNE
FRANT
NÁMESTIE
ŠTE
6 Synagogue Church of
P O TOČNÁ
St Nicholas
FÁN
SQUARE
A
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M S ÉHO
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K
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TRN
HO
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Palace
A
Church of
P IT
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AD
SK
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Municipal
Á
SK
Assumption of
O VÁ the Virgin Mary
PA
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VA
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ÍCK
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West Slovakia
LNÉ
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Church of
St Helen
RSK
0 metres 400
KÁ
ELEC
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STR
0 yards 400
Main Portal
The inscription in Latin above the
entrance refers to Count Miklós Esterházy,
the cathedral’s founder.
Main entrance
Interior
The walls, windows and vault are decorated with stucco
ornamentation – figurative, floral and geometric – by
artists Giovanni Rossi and Tornini.
For hotels and restaurants see p318 and p319
SLOVAKIA 303
St John’s Pulpit
This Baroque pulpit, decorated
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
with figures depicting the Fathers
Practical Information
of the Church, was built by artisans
Univerzitne námestie.
B Kniling and V Stadler in 1640.
Tel (033) 551 4586.
Open May–Oct: 10am–noon,
2–5pm & 30 min before each
mass. 5 7:30am daily, 9:30 &
11:30am Sun. 8
Ornate Door
Above the richly carved wooden
door leading to the sacristy is
an ornate metal grille with
gilded elements.
3 Bojnice Castle
Zámok Bojnice
Originally built in the 12th century, the romantic
Bojnice Castle is one of Slovakia’s greatest attractions.
In the 13th century, it passed into the hands of the
most powerful Hungarian warlord of the time, Matúš
Čák. In 1527, the Thurzo family converted the castle
into a comfortable Renaissance residence and in the
19th century, its last owner, Count Ján Pálffy, remodelled
it into a stately residence resembling the Gothic
castles of France’s Loire Valley.
Chapel
The chapel, with its stuccoed
Pálffy’s Tomb and painted vault, was built in the
The chapel crypt contains 17th century, in a former bastion.
the impressive Neo-
Romanesque marble
sarcophagus of the
castle’s last owner,
Ján Pálffy.
. Golden Hall
The hall’s spectacular vault, made
of pine and covered with gold leaf,
was modelled on the interior of the
Venetian Academy of Fine Arts.
Music Room
The present Music Room
was once Count Ján Pálffy’s
bedroom. It now houses a
beautiful piano made in
Vienna in 1884.
For hotels and restaurants see p318 and p319
SLOVAKIA 305
Castle Grounds
Bojnice is located in a large
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
park with many rare species
Practical Information
of trees, including what is
181 km (123 miles) NE of
claimed to be the oldest lime
Bratislava. Tel (046) 543 0633.
tree in Slovakia. In summer,
Open May: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun;
various events are staged in
Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; Oct–
the grounds.
Apr: 10am–3pm daily. &
∑ bojnicecastle.sk
Transport
£ @ from Bratislava.
Central Castle
The rooms of the Central
Castle are furnished in Gothic
style. The top floor is the
Knights’ Hall, with 14- to
17th-century weapons.
Entrance Tower
and Gate
. Bojnice Altarpiece
KEY The altarpiece, painted by Italian painter Nardo di
Cione, is the only complete surviving work by the artist.
1 Castle courtyards Painted in the mid-14th century, using tempera paint
2 Neo-Gothic gallery on a wooden panel, it is the most important piece
from Ján Pálffy’s collection.
306 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
5 Tatra Mountains
Slovakia’s Northern Tatra Mountains consist of three ranges:
the Western Tatras (Západné Tatry), the High Tatras (Vysoké
Tatry) and the small area of Eastern Tatras (Belianske Tatry), a
protected reserve that is closed to the public. All of them are
within the Tatra National Park. The most spectacular range,
the High Tatras, is a major draw for hikers.
J
The historic sights are J
concentrated along the pedestri-
Salatín
anized Dolna, the large market 2050 m
Volovec
2064 m
square námestie SNP, and Horna. (6726 ft)
(6772 ft)
The central square is flanked
Baranec
by buildings of the old castle
J
2184 m
complex. Of these, the parish (7165 ft)
Transport
k Poprad-Tatry. £ from Poprad
to Tatranská Lomnica, Starý
Smokovec, Štrbské Pleso.
Lomnický Štít
The second highest peak,
at 2,632 m (8,635 ft), it is
accessible by cable car.
Bukowina
Tatrzanska
10 km (6 miles)
Javorina Ždiar
Kasprov Vrch BE
Vrchy LIA
né
1985 m
(6512 ft) NS
KÉ
e
Červ
Krzesanica
J Švinica TATRY
2122 m 2301 m
(6962 ft) (7549 ft) Spišská Belá
J
16 km (10 miles)
Lomnický štít
J
Kamienista 2632 m
Vel’ká Kopa
2121 m (8635 ft)
2053 m
(6959 ft)
Bystrá (6735 ft)
2248 m J Gerlachovský štít Tatranská
(7375 ft) 2654 m Lomnica
J
Y
ATR Y
(8707 ft)
NĒ T Kriváň
TR
ZĀPAD 2494 m
(8182 ft) VYOSKĒ
TA Starý
Smokovec
Po pr ad
Štrbské
Pleso
Bi el y Vá
lá
Be
Poprad
h
a
bic
14km (9 miles)
Hy
Východná Važec
Hybe
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road Starý Smokovec
0 km 5
International This attractive spa complex has several
border 0 miles 3 hotels, pensions and restaurants that blend
Summit well with their woodland surroundings.
For keys to symbols see back flap
308 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Main Hall
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The main hall’s vaulted
ceiling bears witness to
Practical Information
the Gothic origin of the
Námestie Majstra Pavla. Tel (053)
Town Hall.
451 2449. Open 9am–5pm daily.
Spiš Museum: Open 9am–5pm
daily. & ∑ snm.sk
. Council Chamber
In 1998, this room was used for a summit meeting
between the presidents of 11 European countries,
including Slovakia, Poland, the Czech Republic,
Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria and Slovenia.
. Wall Paintings
The impressive Renaissance
wall paintings on the south
elevation of the building
depict the civic virtues of
restraint, courage, justice
and patience.
KEY
1 Coat of arms
2 The Spiš Museum, on the first
floor, contains several important
historical artifacts as well as an
exhibition on the town’s history.
3 The Neo-Classical pediments
date from the 19th century.
4 Corner column buttresses were
added in the 19th century to protect
the arches from structural failure.
310 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
8 Spiš Castle
Spišskỳ hrad
The ruins of Spiš Castle are part of a historic complex, along
with the small town of Spišské Podhradie (podhradie means
“below the castle”) and Spišská Kapitula to the northwest;
all three are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list.
Spiš Castle was the administrative capital of the Spiš region, a
historic province populated by Saxon settlers. Its oldest parts
date from between the 11th and 12th centuries. In 1780, the
Impressive Church of the Holy Spirit in
castle burned down, but it is now gradually being restored.
Žehra near Spišská Kapitula Most impressive from a distance, it is nonetheless worth a
visit for its spectacular views.
7 Spišská Kapitula
400 km (249 miles) NE of Bratislava.
@
Environs
The village of Žehra lies 6 km
(4 miles) southeast of Spišská
Kapitula. It features the historic
UNESCO-protected 13th-century
Romanesque Church of the
Holy Spirit (sv Duch), a white
building with a tower and a
bell, topped with onion-shaped
wooden cupolas. Inside, 13th–
15th-century frescoes cover the
presbytery and a wall of the nave,
and there is a 13th-century
stone font.
Gate
R St Martin’s Cathedral The entrance gate leads to a vast
Open May–Oct: 10am–4:30pm daily, lower courtyard, nearly 300 m (985 ft)
1–4:30pm Sun. & 8 long and 115 m (380 ft) wide.
For hotels and restaurants see p318 and p319
SLOVAKIA 311
Transport
Walls
£ @ from Spišské Podhradie.
The Zápolya family, who
owned the castle in the
15th and 16th centuries, had
the defensive walls rebuilt,
reinforced and equipped
with new gun positions.
. Upper Castle
Situated at the highest
point on the hill, the
Upper Castle, with its
Romanesque palace
and tower, was built
in the 13th century.
Burnt down in 1780,
it was not rebuilt.
Tournaments
During summer, colourful . Museum
historical pageants and The museum has a range of exhibits,
tournaments are held in including pieces from the castle kitchens,
the castle courtyards, bedrooms and bathrooms as well as
featuring men dressed from the medieval torture room and
as knights. castle armoury.
312 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
KASÁRENSKÉ
6 St Michael’s Chapel NÁMESTIE
ŠT
VN
7 Former Synagogue
EF
Á
IČN
ÁN
Á
ZBROJ N
8 Executioner’s Bastion
IK
Á
KO
DN
MÄI
OV
9 Jesuit Church VO
VÁ Č
MOYZESO
A
SIAR
Mestsky
SKA
HRN
LA
BIE Park
ČIA
VA
VA
Executioner’s
PO ŠT O
RSK
UNIV
Levoča
State Theatre House
ORL
Á
NSK
Singing Fountain M LY
IA
Hall
A
ALŽB NÁMESTIE
Bus Stations
ÁR
OV
A
ZV
HLA
VRÁ A
TN OV
0 metres 300 A E LT
EV
TIMONOVA OS
VNÁ
RO
0 yards 300 Airport
VA
INO 6 km (4 miles)
P R IB
to at least one carriage, but it efficient, but not all public is 12 km (7 miles) from the
is often difficult to get through telephones allow international city centre. Vienna’s airport
the station to reach the carriage. calls. Those that do not allow also operates a bus service
outgoing calls to international to Bratislava.
and mobile numbers are
Banking and Currency marked with an orange sticker.
The national currency of Post offices can be found in Rail Travel
Slovakia is the euro. Most Slovak all towns and larger villages. Trains in Slovakia are run by ŽSR
banks are open from 8am to A poste restante service is (Želenice Slovenskej Republiky).
5pm and accept traveller’s available in the main post office Travelling by train is more
cheques, which can also be in every major town and city. comfortable than by coach, but
cashed in exchange bureaus. An it should be stressed that stand-
increasing number of services ard fares on international train
and retail outlets now accept Arriving by Air routes are usually very high – so
credit card payments. It is easy Bratislava’s M R Štefánika Airport travelling by air might not cost
to find a bank for exchanging is served by airlines from all over much more. Discounted fares
or withdrawing money in towns Europe, but the most popular may be available on advance
and tourist resorts. The most are Air Slovakia, Czech Airlines, bookings or with concessions.
common are branches of large Austrian Airlines, Ryanair, Slovakia’s principal station is the
banks such as Slovenská Aeroflot, Lufthansa and KLM. Bratislava Main Train Station.
Sporitel’ňa, VÚB and Tatra Visitors to southern Slovakia
Banka. Slovak banks are generally can fly to Vienna’s Schwechat
open from 8am to 5pm. International Airport, less Travelling by Coach
than 50 km (30 miles) from the Visitors can travel to Slovakia
border, while those heading for by coaches operated by inter-
Communications northern Slovakia can consider national carriers. These run
Slovak telephone and postal taking a flight to Krakow in scheduled services between
services are widely available Poland, which is closer than Autobusová Stanica Bratislava
and efficient and are usually Bratislava, and head south and major European cities.
open from 8am to 5pm. Public from there. Travelling by coach is generally
phones are mostly in good Low-cost airlines offer a less expensive than by air, but
working order, and making a good range of deals on flights it may be less comfortable,
local or international call is fairly to Prague, Brno, Bratislava and takes much longer. The
easy. Payphones in Slovakia are and Krakow in Poland, and coaches on international
both coin- and card-operated. the number of routes is steadily routes are well equipped
The service is quick and increasing. Bratislava’s airport with air conditioning.
DIRECTORY
Documentation United States VÚB Schwechat
Hviezdoslavovo námestie Mlynské Nivy 1, 82990, International Airport
∑ slovakia.org
4, 811 02, Bratislava. Bratislava. ∑ viennaairport.com
∑ ec.europa.eu Tel (02) 5443 3338. ∑ vub.sk
Visitor Rail Travel
Emergency
Information Numbers Arriving by Air Bratislava Main Train
∑ slovakia.travel Ambulance Aeroflot Station
Tel 155, 112. ∑ aeroflot.ru Predstaničné námestie
Asociácia
1, Bratislava.
Informačných Centier Fire Austrian Airlines
Tel (02) 18 188.
Slovenska Tel 150, 112. ∑ astrian.com
ŽSR
∑ aices.sk Police Czech Airlines
∑ slovakrail.sk
Tel 158, 112. ∑ czechairlines.com
Bratislavská
Informačná Služba Banking and KLM Travelling by
Currency ∑ klm.com Coach
∑ bkis.sk
Slovenská Sporitel’ňa Lufthansa Autobusová Stanica
Embassies Nám Snp 18, Bratislava. ∑ lufthansa.com Bratislava
∑ slsp.sk Mlynské Nivy
United Kingdom M R Štefánika Airport
Tatra Banka 31, 821 09, Bratislava.
Panská 16, 814 99, ∑ letiskobratislava.sk
Hodžovo námestie 3, Tel (02) 18 211,
Bratislava. Bratislava. Ryanair (02) 5542 2734.
Tel (02) 5998 2000. ∑ tatrabanka.sk ∑ ryanair.com ∑ slovaklines.sk
316 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
contemporary Astorka Theatre autumn. The best-known Visitors are advised to visit
in Bratislava is marvellous. Other Slovak festival of popular music tourist offices for the most
theatres there include Radošin is Bratislava Lyre, which was one up-to-date information.
Naive Theatre, GUnaGU and of the flagship national entertain-
Aréna. Slovakia also hosts a ment events under Communist
number of international theatre rule, and is now a nationwide Folk Festivals
festivals, including the biennial song festival. The Jewish folklore Most folk festivals take place
Bábkarska Bystrica (festival of music group Pressburger in summer. The International
puppet theatres), held during Klezmer Band often perform Historic Fencing Festival in
March–April in Banská Bystrica, at festivals. Trenčín (Jul–Aug), Červený Kameń
and the annual Divadelná Nitra, The free English-language Castle (May), Levice (Jun) and
held in Nitra in September. weekly The Slovak Spectator and Banská Bystrica (Sep), draws the
Numerous music events the monthly magazine What’s biggest crowds. The Janošíkove
and festivals also take place on – Bratislava & Slovakia are Dni (Janosik’s Days) folklore
throughout Slovakia. The most good sources of information festival, held in July–August in
prominent are the Bratislava about the events in the capital Terchova, is also popular, with
Music Festival and Bratislava and around the country, and art, theatre and book presen-
Jazz Days, both held in the contain some good reviews. tations as well as music.
DIRECTORY
Handicrafts Nightlife Trafo Hungarian Theatre
Venturska 1, Bratislava. Thalia Mojmirova 3, 04001
UL’UV Stores 17’s Bar Košice.
Hviezdoslavovo námestie Tel (02) 2092 2744.
Main store: Obchodná Tel (055) 622 5866.
17, 811 22 Bratislava. ∑ trafo.sk ∑ thaliaszinhaz.sk
64, 816 11 Bratislava.
Tel (09) 0363 7038.
Tel (02) 5273 1351. Pressburger
Apollon Gay Club
Music and Klezmer Band
Other branches: Panenská 24, Theatre ∑ klezmer.sk
Dolná 14, 974 01 820 00 Bratislava.
Aréna Radošin Naive
Banská Bystrica. Tel (02) 9154 8031. Theatre
Tel (04) 8412 3657. ∑ apollon-gay-club.sk Viedenská Cesta 10,
Škultétyho 5,
851 01 Bratislava. 831 04 Bratislava.
Hlavná 5, 917 00 Trnava. Café Kút
Zámočnická 11, Tel (02) 6720 2557. Tel (02) 5556 3508.
Tel (03) 3551 3684.
∑ uluv.sk 811 03 Bratislava. Astorka Theatre Romany Theatre
Tel (02) 5443 4957. Stefanikova 4,
Nám Snp 33 Bratislava.
Art and Antiques Casa del Havana
040 01 Košice.
Tel (02) 5441 2245. Tel (055) 622 4980.
Pod Michalskou
Corvus ∑ astorka.sk ∑ romathan.sk
Bránou, Bratislava.
Europalia 24, 945 01 Tel (02) 9107 97222. Slovak National
Bábkarska Bystrica
Komárno, Bratislava. Theatre
D4 Marionet’s Festival
Tel (02) 9035 72125. Hviezdoslavovo Nám 1,
Jedlíkova 9, 811 06 ∑ BDNR.sk 811 02 Bratislava.
Folk – Folk Bratislava. Tel (02) 2047 2111.
Bratislava Jazz Days ∑ snd.sk
Obchodná 24, Harley Davidson
∑ bjd.sk
811 01 Bratislava. Rebarborová 1, Slovak Philharmonic
Tel (02) 5443 4874. 821 07 Bratislava. Bratislava Music Orchestra
Tel (02) 4319 1094. Festival Palackého 2,
I.N.A. Business 811 02 Bratislava.
Jazz Café Michalská 10, Tel (02) 5920 8233.
Obchodná 60,
Ventúrska 5, 811 01 811 03 Bratislava. ∑ filharm.sk
Bratislava.
Bratislava. Tel (02) 5443
Tel (02) 5443 0378.
LÚČ Vydavatelské 4661. ∑ jazz-cafe.sk Folk Festivals
∑ bhsfestival.sk
Družstvo Randal Club Jánošíkove Dni
Špitalská 7, Karpatská 2, Bratislava. Divadelná Nitra (Jánošik’s Days)
813 59 Bratislava. Tel (02) 9077 49413. Festival ∑ janosikovedni.sk
∑ randalclub.eu ∑ nitrafest.sk
Tel (02) 6042 1233. International Historic
Subclub GUnaGU Fencing Festival
U Žofky
NábrArm. Gen. L. ∑ serm.sk
Michalska 5, Na Františkánskom
Svobodu, Bratislava.
811 01 Bratislava. Tel (02) 5411 1183. námestie 7, Bratislava.
Tel (02) 5443 1994. ∑ subclub.sk Tel (02) 5443 3335.
318 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
this modern hotel carries Price Guide
Bratislava the theme inside with retro Prices are based on one night’s stay in
furnishings and inspired decor. high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hostel Blues €
Hostel Map E3 € under €70
Špitálska 2, 811 08 DK Choice €€ €70 to €120
€€€ over €120
Tel 905 204 020 Marrol's Boutique €€€
∑ hostelblues.sk Boutique Map D5
This centrally located hostel has Tobrucká 4, 811 02 KOŠICE: Yasmin €€
bunk-bed dorms, private doubles, Tel (02) 5778 4600 Boutique
comfortable social areas and live ∑ hotelmarrols.sk Tyršovo nábrežie 1, 040 01
blues or jazz concerts in its bar. One of the most exclusive Tel (055) 795 1100
hotels of the city, Marrol’s is ∑ hotel-yasmin.sk
Arcadia €€ located close to the exit from Stylish ten-storey hotel with
Historic Map C4 the Old Bridge. It offers ultra- a modern design and pleasing
Františkánska 3, 811 01 modern conveniences, and interiors. It offers comfortable,
Tel (02) 5949 0500 impeccable service. Rooms spacious rooms, a wellness
∑ www.arcadia-hotel.sk and apartments have retro- centre and is well-equipped
High ceilings, rich textiles and old- styled furnishings and come for holding large conferences.
school furnishings characterize this in a variety of sizes. Outstanding
plush pied-a-terre in the Old Town. restaurant, well-equipped gym LEVOČA: Arkada €
and business facilities. Historic
Loft €€ Námestie Majstra Pavla 26, 054 01
Boutique Tel (053) 451 2372
Štefánikova 864/4, 811 05 ∑ arkada.sk
Tel (02) 5751 1000 Bright and airy en suites
∑ lofthotel.sk Rest of Slovakia on Levoča's evocative Town
Loft combines a modern and a Square, in a lovely building
19th-century building through BOJNICE: Kaskada € that dates back to the late
a central atrium and offers sleek Resort Middle Ages.
modern rooms. Located close to Jánošiková 1301/24, 972 01
the city centre. Tel (046) 518 3010 SPIŠSKÉ PODHRADIE: Hotel
∑ www.kaskada.sk Kapitula €
Tatra €€ A modern hotel with its own Historic
Historic Map C2 aquapark, Kaskada offers plush Spišská Kapitula 15, 053 04
Nám. 1 Mája, 811 06 fully equipped rooms and a wide Tel (053) 454 2581
Tel (02) 5927 2111 range of facilities. ∑ hotelkapitula.eu
∑ hoteltatra.sk In a 15th-century historic
Located centrally, this 1930s KOŠICE: Bankov €€ Gothic building in the
hotel offers modern rooms, many Boutique immediate vicity of several
with views of the presidential Dolny Bankov 2, 040 01 cultural monuments; offers
palace on Hodžovo námestie. Tel (055) 632 4522 spacious well-styled en suites
∑ hotelbankov.sk and facilities for events and
Mamaison Sulekova €€ Situated beside the woods on conferences.
Luxury the outskirts of the town, Bankov
Šulekova 20, 811 06 is a romantic retreat with plush STARY SMOKOVEC: Grand Hotel
Tel (02) 5910 0200 rooms, a stylish restaurant and Stary Smokovec €
∑ mamaison.com a spa centre. Luxury
Close to the Bratislava Castle, the Stary Smokovec 38, 062 01
Mamaison offers well-equipped Tel (052) 478 0000
apartments with modern kitchens ∑ www.grandhotel.sk
and swish bathrooms. The Grand occupies a lovely,
Carpathian-style half-timbered
Park Inn €€ 1904 building right in the heart
Luxury Map C5 of the Stary Smokovec mountain
Rybné námestie 1, 811 02 resort. The interior retains many
Tel (02) 5934 0000 original Art Nouveau fittings and
∑ parkinn.com/hotel-bratislava the rooms are richly furnished.
Located in the central Spa facilities on site.
pedestrianized zone, the ParkInn
has plush rooms, fitness centre, TRNAVA: Penzion u Mami €
indoor pool and meeting facilities. B&B
Jeruzalemská 3, 917 01
Tulip House €€ Tel (033) 535 4216
Historic Map D4 ∑ penzionumami.sk
Štúrova 15/10, 811 02 Located on a quiet street near
Tel (02) 3217 1819 the Cathedral of St John the
∑ tuliphousehotel.com Baptist, this hotel offers 11
In an Art Nouveau building that Spacious and comfortable bedroom at comfortably furnished rooms
has a tulip design on the facade, Bankov, Košice as well as a few apartments.
For map references see pp290–91
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 319
HUNGARY
Unique to Central Europe, Hungary is peopled by descendants of Magyars, a
race from Central Asia who settled here in the 9th century. In recent times, the
country has fought against Ottoman, German, Austrian and Soviet occupiers,
yet its indigenous culture remains intact. In 1989 Hungary became the first
Eastern Bloc country to embrace Western-style democracy.
Hungary has a varied landscape, with the Lombards and the Avars. The
forests and mountains dominating the ancestors of the modern Hungarians, the
north and a vast plain covering the rest Magyars, migrated from the Urals in 896,
of the country. The Tisza river and its under the leadership of Prince Árpád,
tributaries shape the eastern regions, whose dynasty lasted until 1301, when
while the west has Lake Balaton, one of King András III died without leaving an
the largest lakes in Europe. The mighty heir. The throne then passed to a series of
Danube flows through the heart of the foreign kings, but the country flourished,
country, bisecting the capital, Budapest, and during the reign of Mátyás Corvinus
where one-fifth of the population lives. (r. 1458–90) it became the greatest
monarchy in Central Europe. The Ottomans
History won a major victory at the Battle of Mohács
In AD 100 the Romans established in 1526. They returned to capture
the town of Aquincum near modern- Buda in 1541, which became the capital
day Budapest, and ruled the area, then of Ottoman Hungary. To quell their
called Pannonia, for three centuries. advance, the Austrians, under Ferdinand
They withdrew completely following of Habsburg, occupied western Hungary,
the arrival of the Huns in the early 5th while the central plains stayed under
century. After the death of Attila the Hun Ottoman control; the eastern region,
in 453, the area was ruled by the Goths, including Transylvania, became
View from Castle Hill across the Danube, with the Parliament visible beyond Elizabeth Bridge, Budapest
The popular Szechenyi thermal baths
322 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Exploring Hungary
Located in the heart of Central Europe, Budapest is the perfect base
for exploring Hungary. Szentendre, with its Serbian religious art, is
Vienna
a short drive north. Pécs, a treasure trove of European history,
A4
lies to the south, while the popular town of Eger in the Mosonmagyaróvár
Sopron
1
Fertőd M1
road infrastructure has expanded in recent years. 85 Csorna
AUST R I A
Pannonhalma
84
86
83
Abbey
81
Kőszeg Ráb
a
Sárvár
Szombathely
Sights at a Glance
82
Herend 8
87
8
1 Budapest pp324–43 r Kőszeg
8 71
2 Szentendre pp344–6 t Sárvár Veszprém
84
76
Zalaegerszeg
ton Siófok
5 Visegrád i Lake Balaton Tour Keszthely Bala
Lake
86
65
75 75
6 Nagybörzsöny and pp356–7 SLOVENIA M7
74
67
Pécs
g Debrecen
C R OATIA
q Fertőd
58
6 Szigetvár
w Fertő-Hanság h Hortobágy and Hortobágy
National Park National Park
e Sopron j Szeged
HUNGARY 323
3 37 Sárospatak U KRA IN E
S LO VAK IA
4
26 za
Szerencs T is Csaroda
25
Danube Miskolc
22 41
21
37
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25
36
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Esztergom
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Szentendre
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5
31
BUDAPEST Jászberény Tisza Hortobágy and Debrecen
31
R OMA N IA
32
34
Hortobágy
7 National Park
M
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44
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54
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1 Budapest
Budapest was founded in 1873 after the unification of three separate towns – Buda
and Obuda on the west bank of the Danube, and Pest on the east. All three towns
developed in the second half of the 12th century; Buda became the seat of
Hungary’s rulers in 1247. A period of Turkish rule from 1541 to 1686 left few
traces, except for the city’s wonderful bathhouses. Now home to two
million people, Budapest is considered one of the most beautiful M A RK
Ó U.
cities in Europe. Many of the historic sights lie along the banks
of the Danube, including the Neo-Classical Parliament,
HO NV ÉD
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Railway
SZ
though it is thought to be near the site of Mátyás Church
íN
(see pp330–31). The Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of
Há
Luxembourg built a Gothic palace on the present site,
Z U
from which today’s castle began to evolve. After the
Ottoman occupation, the Habsburgs built a monumental
palace here in the 18th century. The current form
SZ
dates from the rebuilding of the 19th-century
T
palace after its destruction in February 1945.
GY
During the renovation, the remains of the
ÖR
15th-century Gothic palace were exposed and
GY
archaeologists decided to showcase the defensive
U
walls and royal chambers in the reconstruction.
Sándor Palace
Ornamental Gateway
Dating from 1903, this
gateway leads to the
Habsburg Steps and the
Royal Palace. Nearby, a
bronze sculpture of the
mythical turul bird
guards the palace.
3 . Mátyás Fountain
In the northern courtyard of the Royal Palace stands
the Mátyás Fountain. It was designed by Alajos Stróbl
in 1904 and depicts King Mátyás Corvinus and his
beloved Ilonka.
Lion Gate
This gate, leading to the rear
courtyard of the palace, gets
its name from the four lions
that watch over it. These
sculptures were designed
by János Fadrusz in 1901.
c.1356 Louis I builds 1686 The assault by Habsburg 1849 Royal Palace
Turul
a royal castle on the soldiers leaves the palace is destroyed again, bird
southern slopes of razed to the ground during an un-
Castle Hill successful attack
1458 A Renaissance palace evolves 1749 Maria Theresa builds a vast by Hungarian
under King Mátyás palace comprising 203 chambers insurgents
R
É
T
Y
R G
Ö
Y
G
T
Z
S
Key
2 Budapest Suggested route
History Museum
Buda’s Old Town Hall, crowned with an onion-shaped dome, on Holy Trinity Square
5 Mátyás Church
Mátyás templom
The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was built
on this site between the 13th and 15th centuries.
Some of the architectural style dates from the
reign of Sigismund of Luxembourg, but the
church was named after King Mátyás Corvinus,
one of the greatest Hungarian rulers. Much of
the original detail was lost when the Ottomans
Rose Window
converted the church into the Great Mosque
Architect Frigyes Schulek
in 1541. The liberation of Buda saw the church faithfully reproduced, in
almost totally destroyed, but it was rebuilt in stone, the medieval stained-
the Baroque style by the Franciscan friars. It glass window to its
original Gothic style.
sustained further damage in 1723 but was
restored in the Neo-Gothic style between 1873
and 1896 by the architect Frigyes Schulek. The
crypt houses the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art.
Béla Tower
Named after the church’s
founder, King Béla IV, this
tower has retained several
of its original Gothic features.
. Baroque Madonna
According to legend, the original statue was
set into a wall of the church during the
Ottoman occupation. When the church was
destroyed in 1686, the statue miraculously
appeared. The Ottomans took this
as an omen of defeat.
KEY
Main Portal
Below the arches of the 1 The roof is decorated with
west entrance is an impressive multicoloured glazed tiles.
19th-century bas-relief by 2 The main altar was created
sculptor Lajos Lantai showing by Frigyes Schulek and based on
the Madonna and Child Gothic triptychs.
seated between two angels.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
BUDAPEST 331
Transport
@ Várbusz.
Pulpit
The richly decorated
pulpit of the church
includes the intricately
carved stone figures of
the four Holy Fathers
of the Church and the
four Evangelists.
Stained-glass Windows
This beautiful
19th-century stained
glass depicting Christ
the Lamb, is from
one of the three
arched windows
on the south
elevation.
. Mary Portal
This depiction of the Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin Mary is the most magnificent
example of Gothic stone carving in
Hungary. Frigyes Schulek reconstructed
the portal from fragments.
Elizabeth Bridge
Gellért Hill’s reservoir
H
E
G
. Statue of Y
A
St Gellért L
IA
The statue of Bishop Ú
T
Gellért, blessing the
city with his uplifted
cross, overlooks
Elizabeth Bridge. He is
regarded as the patron
saint of Budapest.
Citadel
Once a spot that inspired terror, the Citadel
now hosts a hotel, restaurant and lounge
bar, where people can relax and enjoy the
splendid view.
Key
Suggested route
Liberation Monument
Designed by Hungarian sculptor
Zsigmond Strobl, the monument
commemorates the liberation of
Budapest by the Soviet Army in 1945.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
BUDAPEST 333
Observation Terraces
The observation terraces on Gellért Hill offer spectacular
views of the southern part of Buda and the whole of Pest.
Rock Church
This church was established in
1926 in a holy grotto. Under the
Communists, the Pauline Order
of monks was forced to abandon
the church, but it was reopened
in 1989.
SZ
EN
0 metres 500
T
0 yards 500
G
EL
LÉ
R
T
Liberty
R
Bridge
A
K
PA
R
T
. Baths
Two separate baths, one for
men and another for women,
are identically arranged. In each
there are three plunge pools –
with water at different
temperatures – a sauna
and a steam bath.
Balconies
The balconies fronting the hotel rooms have fanciful
Art Nouveau balustrades decorated with lyre and
bird motifs.
. Entrance Hall
Like the baths, the interior of the hotel has kept
its original Art Nouveau decor, with elaborate
mosaics, stained-glass windows and statues.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
BUDAPEST 335
Sun Terraces
Situated in the sunniest VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
spot, these terraces are a
Practical Information
popular place for drying
Szent Gellért tér.
off in summer.
Tel (01) 889 5500.
7^0-=
Baths: Kelenhegyi út.
Open 6am–8pm daily. & 7 ^
∑ gellertbath.com
Transport
@ 7, 7A, 86. v 18, 19, 47, 49.
Main Staircase
The landings of the main
staircase have stained-glass
windows by Bozó Stanisits,
added in 1933. They illus-
trate an ancient Hungarian
legend about a magic
stag, referred to in the
poetry of János Arany.
Restaurant Terrace
This first-floor terrace offers diners a
pretty view of Budapest. The ground
and first floors of the hotel house a
total of four cafés and restaurants.
. Main Façade
Behind the hotel’s façade are attractive recreational
facilities and a health spa that is also open to non-
guests. The entrance to the baths is around to the
right from the main entrance, on Kelenhegyi út.
336 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
7 Parliament
Parlamentnek
The largest building in the country,
Hungary’s Parliament has become a symbol
of Budapest. A competition, held to choose
its design, was won by Hungarian architect
Imre Steindl, who based his plans on the
Houses of Parliament in London, built by
Charles Barry in the mid-19th century. Lateral View
The magnificent dome marks the central point
Steindl’s Neo-Gothic masterpiece, constructed
of the Parliament building. Although the façade
between 1885 and 1904, is 96 m (315 ft) is elaborately Neo-Gothic, the ground plan
high and has 691 rooms. follows Baroque conventions.
. Domed Hall
Adorning the massive pillars
that support Parliament’s
central dome are figures of
some of Hungary’s rulers.
. Deputy Council
Chamber
Formerly the lower
house, this is where the
National Assembly now
convenes. Paintings by
Hungarian artist Zsigmond
Vajda (1860–1931) hang
on either side of the
Speaker’s lectern.
Gables
Almost every corner of the Parliament
building features gables with pinnacles
based on Gothic sculptures.
Lobbies
Magnificent corridors, adorned with
stained-glass windows, are the venue
for many political discussions.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
BUDAPEST 337
Dome
The ceiling of the 96-m VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(315-ft) high dome is
Practical Information
covered in an intricate
Kossuth Lajos tér. Map C2.
design of Neo-Gothic
Tel (01) 441 4000. Open Apr–Oct:
gilding combined with
8am–6pm Mon–Fri; till 4pm Sat–
heraldic decoration.
Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am– 4pm Mon–
Sun. 7 - ∑ parlament.hu
Transport
@ 70, 78. v 2, 2A.
q Kossuth tér.
Tapestry Hall
This room, on the Danube
side of the Domed Hall,
has a tapestry depicting
Prince Árpád with seven
Magyar leaders under his
command, as he signs
a peace treaty and
takes an oath.
KEY
9 St Stephen’s
Basilica
Szent István Bazilika
Szent István tér. Map D3. Tel (01) 311
0839. q Deák Ferenc tér. Open 9am–
5pm Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun. & 7 5
∑ bazilika.biz
Gothic and Renaissance sections of Vajdahunyad Castle, seen across the lake in Városliget
344 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
2 Szentendre
With its Baroque architecture, Orthodox churches, cobbled
streets and riverside setting, Szentendre makes for an idyllic
visit. It is also known for its museums, which document the
history of the region. Originally founded by the Romans in the
4th century, the town was settled by Serbian refugees in the
14th century. They fled here first from the Ottoman Turks after
the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, and again after the Battle of
Belgrade in 1690, ushering in a period of great prosperity. In
the 1920s, many Serbs moved away to be replaced by artists
who were attracted by the town’s air and light. It remains
popular with them today. Entrance to the fascinating Charles
Ferenczy Museum
P Fő Square merchants’ houses; it was
Szentendre Gallery: Tel (026) 310 244. converted into a gallery in 1987. Portrait of Mrs Sándor Ernst
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & János Opposite, in an early-19th- (1916) can be seen here. The
Kmetty Memorial Museum: century Saxon-style house, is museum’s fine arts collection
Tel (026) 310 244. Open Apr–Oct: the János Kmetty Memorial has some 8,000 works by
10am–2pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7 Museum, devoted to the local artists.
At the heart of Szentendre lies life and works of the painter
the bustling Fő Square (Fő tér), János Kmetty (1889–1975), P Templom Square
which is packed with hawkers a pioneering Cubist who Czóbel Museum: Tel (026) 312 721.
and street artists in summer. A lived here for 45 years. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
wrought-iron cross was raised &87
here in 1763 by the survivors E Charles Ferenczy Museum This walled square (Templom
of the last major outbreak of Fő tér 6. Tel (026) 310 244. Open 10am– tér), at the top of a hill above Fő
bubonic plague. 4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 Square, stands on the site of the
On the Danube side of ∑ femuz.hu original Roman fort of Ulcisia.
the square is the Orthodox This art museum (Károly The square was the centre of the
Blagoveštenska Church, built Ferenczy muzeum), northeast town in the Middle Ages and is
between 1752 and 1754 and of the Blagoveštenska Church, popular today for the views it
designed by András Mayerhoffer houses the work of Hungarian offers of the streets below.
(1690–1771). Its elegantly curved Impressionist painter Károly The Catholic church in the
balcony and tall, split-level belfry Ferenczy (1862–1917), who middle of the square was first
are fine examples of late-Baroque lived in Szentendre between built in Romanesque style in
simplicity. Inside, frescoes of the 1889 and 1906. Rooms here the 14th century and renovated
Roman emperor, Constantine, a also display the works of his in Baroque style in the 18th
fine choir and a colourful iconosta- wife, painter Olga Fialka, and century. A few original features
sis depicting the Annunciation their three children: a painter, remain, including the sundial
vie for attention. a sculptor and a weaver. on the right-hand side.
Opposite the church is the Although most of Ferenczy’s Opposite the church is a
Szentendre Gallery, featuring best works are on display at charming building housing the
the work of local artists. The the Hungarian National Gallery Czóbel Museum. It is dedicated
building was originally a (see p328), the lucid and comic to painter Béla Czóbel, famous
terrace formed by six identical Acrobats (1912) and his serene for his landscapes and nudes.
He lived in Szentendre from
1946 until his death in 1976.
R Belgrade Church
and Museum of Serbian
Orthodox Ecclesiastical Art
Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (026) 312 399.
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm Wed–Sun;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun. & 7
Constructed by Serbs but often
known as the Greek Church, the
Belgrade Church (Szerb Ortodox
Egyházművészeti Gyűjtemény,
Könyvtár és Levéltár) is the
Hungarian seat of the Serbian
Wrought-iron cross amid pretty, colourful houses in Fő Square Orthodox Patriarch, and is
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 345
Hungarian
1 Fő Square MA
ÚT
Open-Air
Museum RT
2 Charles Ferenczy Museum IN
UT C
TOK
OV
A
IC
UTC
S
PÁT RI ÁR KA
3 Templom Square
BAR
UT Art Mill
CA
ÁK UTCA
200 m
UT CA
RZÓ
Orthodox Ecclesiastical
LC
BO
6 Margit Kovács
H U N YA D
RÁ ALKOTM
ÁNY Imre Ámos/Margit
KÓ Czobel TEMPLOM UT
NA
CZ CA Anna Museum
Ceramics Collection I Museum SQUARE
DU
U
be
I
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7 Barcsay Collection
UTCA
C
Danu
A
Charles Ferenczy
Museum
Town Hall
Blagoveštenska G U TC A
- ZS LI I N G Ö RÖ
B AJ C SY SZ Church
KY Margit Kovács
János Kmetty
Memorial Museum Ceramics Collection
UT
CA FŐ SQUARE
Culture
CA
House
UT
PÉTER-P
ÁL UTCA
K
Peter-Paul
NO
UTCA
Church Barcsay
NO
Collection
KA
KUCS
DUNA
BÜ
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K
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S
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PA
SA
BÜ
KÖ
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KOR
Bü
UTCA
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DU
St
ZÓ
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AB RT
re
0 yards 100 am
IR
Ó
UT
CA
K OS S UTH
UTC A
Požarevačka
Church
Railway and
Bus Stations
500 m (550 yards)
For keys to symbols see back flap
346 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
E Royal Palace
Királyi Kastély. Tel (028) 420 331
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
8 7 - = ∑ kiralyikastely.hu
4 Vác 6 Nagybörzsöny
Esztergom City
VÁ R UTC A
Centre
1 Esztergom Basilica
SZENTGYÖRGYMEZŐ
CA
UT
SZENT
KO
Museum ISTVÁN
IS
TÉR
3 Víziváros
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Dark
S É TÁ N
BÁNOM
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Gate
4 Christian Museum Esztergom
NYI
Basilica
5 Bálint Balassa Museum
Danube
SOBIESKI
BASA
MA
UT
Lower Esztergom Rondella CA
JER UTC
VÍZIVÁROS
IST A
CA
VA
VÁ
UT
SV
N
Christian
SZENT
ÁR
Y
Museum
ÁN
Bálint Balassa
PA
TAMÁS-HEGY
HY
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Museum
NT
TT
Víziváros PÁ Z M Á
U
0 metres E NY UT
TC
150
SZ ÉR
BA
Parish CA
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Church
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NA
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Customs SICS
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House UTCA TY
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UT
Bottyan RIN
R
8 Székesfehérvár
60 km (37 miles) SW of Budapest.
* 105,000. £ from Budapest.
@ from Budapest. Piac tér.
n Tourinform, Piac tér 12–14, (022)
312 818. ( Piac tér, daily.
0 Győr
120 km (74 miles) W of Budapest.
* 125,000. £ from Budapest.
@ from Budapest. n Tourinform,
Árpád utca 32, (096) 311 771. ( daily
flower market, Arany János utca.
_ Győr Spring Festival (Mar).
∑ gyor.hu
Located halfway between
Budapest and Vienna, where
the Danube, Rába and Rábca
rivers meet, Győr has long been
a place where empires met, and
clashed. During the Ottoman
Wars it became home to the
most impregnable fortress in
Hungary. Today it is a modern,
vibrant city, full of monuments
that tell of its eventful past.
Founded in the 11th century,
Győr Cathedral was rebuilt in
Gothic style between 1257 and
1267; its Baroque interior dates
from after the Ottoman period,
when the altarpieces and superb
frescoes by Franz Anton
Maulbertsch were added.
It houses the remains of
St Laszlo, one of Hungary’s Magnificent interiors of a bedroom in the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd
most sacred relics, and a mira-
culous painting of the Virgin ceramics by Hungary’s leading The Neo-Baroque French
Mary, one of its most signi- 20th-century abstract sculptor gardens were laid out at the
ficant pilgrimage sites. (see p346), while to the south, same time, though these
The imposing Bishop’s Palace, Szechényi tér, once the city’s were remodelled along English
next door, saw most of its fortifi- market place, is ringed by ideas of garden design at the
cations added in the 16th century, splendid buildings, many beginning of the 20th century.
to keep out the Ottomans. Nearby, housing museums. The palace is approached
the Diocesan Treasury and through a grand wrought-iron
Library and Lapidary houses a entrance gate, with its Rococo-
treasure trove of manuscripts q Fertőd stone-vase separating columns.
and liturgical items, including 184 km (114 miles) W of Budapest.
Although the palace was badly
an illuminated manuscript once * 3,400. £ from Szombathely. damaged during World War II,
belonging to King Mátyás. @ from Sopron. n Tourinform, the main ballrooms and drawing
Up Apaca utca to the north, Joseph Haydn utca 3, (099) 370 544. rooms have been restored
the Margit Kovács Exhibition _ Haydn Festival (Jun–Sep). to their glorious best, filled
houses a vast collection of with priceless French furniture,
The small town of Fertőd Venetian mirrors and
was created in 1950, when Flemish tapestries.
two former estates belonging Joseph Haydn’s presence at
to the Esterházy family, Süttör the palace, from 1766 to 1790,
and Esterháza, were merged. is celebrated by the annual
For three centuries the Haydn Festival, with concerts
Esterházy family was one of showcasing the Austrian com-
the richest and most powerful poser’s work. The emphasis is
in Hungary. They flourished on his chamber music, which
under the Habsburgs, under is per formed by outstanding
whom family members served musicians in the Grand Gallery
in a variety of political and and the beautiful gardens.
military offices.
Originally constructed as P Esterházy Palace
a hunting lodge in 1720, the Joseph Haydn utca 2. Tel (099) 537
Esterházy Palace is the result 640. Open Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Fri–
Győr's Bishop's Palace, built as a defence of vast extensions by architect Sun; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
against Ottoman invaders Melchior Hefel in the 1770s. 8 7 ∑ eszterhaza.hu
352 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
wFertő-Hanság both as a sailing spot and for its Museum and an outstanding
National Park grassy beaches and attractive art collection.
Fertő-Hanság Nemzeti Park nature walks. The town is built around the
Igazgatósága Many parts of the park can magnificent Belváros – the
only be visited with a special Inner Town. Centred around Fő
195 km (121 miles) W of Budapest. permit or on organized guided tér, an impressive central square
£ from Sopron, Győr. @ from
tours. Information about visits that acts as a focal point, Belváros
Zalaergeszeg. n Rév-Kócsagvár,
and tours is available from the contains most of the town’s
Sarród (Park Administration), (099) 537
park’s administration office main sights. Built between 1861
620. 8 7 ∑ fertohansag.hu
in the small village of Sarród, and 1864, the former Ursuline
Located in northwest Hungary located southwest of the park. Convent houses a fine collection
near the Austria-Hungary border, of ecclesiastical art, owned and
the Fertő-Hanság National Park, managed by Sopron’s Catholic
set around Lake Fertő, was once Convent. Most of the items on
one of the most heavily guarded display date from the Baroque
sections of the Iron Curtain. Now period but there is also a collec-
a designated nature reserve, it tion from the early 1800s. Sopron’s
is regarded as one of Europe’s largest church, the Benedictine
most significant water habitats Church, on Fő tér, was built by
and was included on UNESCO’s Franciscan monks in 1280 and
list of World Heritage Sites displays remnants of medieval
in 2001. frescoes. It is also known as the
Lake Fertő is shallow – in Goat Church, as it is believed
most places less than 1-m (3-ft) that a goatherd financed it
deep – and is famous for its vast from the treasure found by his
expanse of tall reeds. Its main flock. Opposite the Benedictine
sources of water are rainfall Church, the Storno House is
and two streams. More than a grand house built in the
200 species of birds nest here, 1400s, which was home to
including the Hungarian ibis, King Mátyás between 1482
spoonbill, heron and egret, and 1483.
and there are also numerous Originally a Renaissance
rare plant species. building, it was remodelled
With the eastern Alps as its in the Baroque style in 1720.
backdrop, the lake is encircled It displays a collection of art
by one of Europe’s best cycle The Firewatch Tower, a striking and period furniture.
paths, which takes in superb landmark in Sopron Sopron also has a wealth of
scenery in both Hungary and fine Art Nouveau architecture
Austria. Favourable, frequent e Sopron including the Firewatch Tower,
winds also make the lake a from where superb views unfold.
popular place for sailing, while 209 km (130 miles) W of Budapest. In 1921, the townspeople voted
* 56,000. £ from Győr, Vienna.
the shallow waters are regarded to stay in Hungary, rather than
@ from Győr. n Tourinform,
as good swimming spots. The join Austria and the Gate of
Liszt Ferenc utca 1, (099) 517 560.
main resort on the Hungarian ( Csarnok utca, daily. _ Early Music
Loyalty, at the foot of the tower,
side, Fertőrákos, is popular Days (Jun), Sopron Festival Weeks
was added in 1928 to honour
(Jun–Jul), Volt Pop Festival (Jul), the result of that plebiscite.
Sopron Jazz (Sep), Christmas Also worth visiting is the
Market (Dec). medieval Synagogue, one of
the oldest in Europe, believed
A border town of the Pannonia to have been built around 1300.
province, Sopron is regarded Abandoned in 1526, when the
as one of Hungary’s most Jews were expelled from the
attractive towns. Its proximity town, many of its original fea-
to Austria is evident in the tures remain intact, including
street signs and shops with a replica of the Ark of
German-speaking staff that the Covenant.
dominate the town. The coun-
try’s oldest cultural centre, R Benedictine Church
Sopron has remains of Roman Templom utca 1, Fő tér. Tel (099) 523
edifices, and city walls as well 768. Open 8am–6pm daily. & 7
as grand medieval buildings, P Firewatch Tower
including both churches and Fő tér. Open May–Aug: 10am–8pm
Frozen Lake Fertő in the picturesque a synagogue. Among its other Tue–Sun; Apr, Sep–Oct: 10am–6pm
Fertő-Hanság National Park attractions are a Pharmacy Tue–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 353
R St Michael’s Cathedral P Castle Gate and Museum A late-Art Nouveau stained-glass window
Vár utca 27. Tel (088) 426 088. Vár utca. Tel (088) 426 088. Museum: in the Petőfi Theatre
Open May–mid-Oct: 10am–5pm. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–3pm daily.
There was a church here as &7 F Petőfi Theatre
early as 1001, when St Stephen Although it looks medieval, this Óváry Ferenc utca 2. Tel (088) 424 235.
created a bishopric, but the gate (Várkapu) is a replica of the 7 ∑ petofiszinhaz.hu
cathedral’s (Szent Mihály original castle gate that was This late-Art Nouveau municipal
Érseki Székesegyház) present built in 1938 to commemorate theatre building, set in well-
appearance dates back to the Hungarian dead of World kept gardens, is named after
1908, when it was extensively War I. The tower affords good revolutionary playwright and
rebuilt in Neo-Romanesque views of the city from the top. poet Sándor Petőfi. The theatre
style. Remains of earlier styles (Petőfi Szinház) was designed
include the Gothic undercroft P Óváros Square in 1908 by István Medgyaszay,
and the crypt’s vaulting, both Óváros tér. who studied in Vienna. It has
from 1380. The towers were Veszprém’s former market intricate folk motifs on the
built in 1723, and many older square, Óváros Square (Óváros façade, typical of the later
features of the cathedral tér) is surrounded by some Art Nouveau buildings.
have recently been restored.
R Gizella Chapel
Vár utca 18. Tel (088) 426 088.
Open May–mid-Oct: 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun. & 7 ^
This 13th-century Gothic chapel
(Gizella Kápolna) commemorates
the life of Gizella, wife of Stephen
and first queen of Hungary.
The chapel was lost and only
rediscovered in the 1760s, during
building work. It retains original
Byzantine frescoes of the
apostles on its walls. Façade of the Neo-Classical Town Hall, built in 1896
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 355
Hill
RK
PATAK
Ú
TÉR
T
U
C
1 St Michael’s
T
Cathedral St Michael’s
Gizella Cathedral
Museum
2 Gizella Chapel Gizella Chapel Sé
Archbishop's d
3 Archbishop’s Palace Palace
D
EÁ
4 Castle Gate
U
St István K
S
Viaduct and
VE
FE
RE
and Museum
NY
Veszprém Zoo VÁ NC
R UTC Railway Station
FE
A
UT CA 2 km (1.2 miles)
UT
5 Óváros Square CA
TC
A
YI KÚ
T
CS
U VÖ G
ER
Bus Station
6 Petőfi Theatre
UT
Castle Gate
U C TA
HA
KY
CA
JÓ
and Museum
T
KA
T H Ö LÖ
Town Hall JÁ
M
BUHIM
8 Bakony Regional
FESTO UTCA
Market
LAR
Ó
Firetower AP
R
CS
Folk House
U
Pósa ÓVÁROS
TC
House SQUARE
A
J U TÁ
AS
RÁK
V
RANOLDER UT
CA
JÁNOS H
Ó C ZI
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TÉR
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UTCA
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BEM UT C A UT TH
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KO
UTCA
SZABADSÁG
TÉR
BUDAPEST
D
TOBORZÓ
ZS A BR
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ZN ÚT
GY NC YA ST
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GY FE Theatre County UT A
ÚT Á RI Hall CA B UD
0 metres 200 ÓV KORK
IS ÁZ
MEGYEHÁZ UCT
KO New TÉR A
200 LA
TCA
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UT
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MÁR TÍROK U
Laczkó Dezső
A
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ERZSÉBET Museum
ZS
TÉR
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ET
SÉ
Bakony Regional
TÁ
NY
Folk House
q Kis-Balaton
The Kis-Balaton
Marina in Siófok, departure point for pleasure
Nature Reserve at
cruises and water sports the mouth of the
Zala river covers
u Siófok an area of 40 sq km
88 km (54 miles) SW of Budapest. (15 sq miles). It is
* 23,000. £ @ from Budapest. home to many rare
g from Balatonalmádi, Tihany. plants and animals.
n Tourinform, Viztorony, Szabadság
tér (084) 310 117. _ Golden Cockle
Folklore Festival (Jul).
∑ siofoktourism.com
1 Zamárdi
A world away from Tips for Drivers
noisy Siófok, Zamárdi Length: 87 km (54 miles).
is home to some fine Stopping-off points: All the
thatched cottages, resorts along the shore have a
including this arcaded wide range of restaurants. For a
house on Fő utca, now quieter ambience, there are many
the village’s museum. small places in Buzsák. The most
panoramic lake views are from
the top of Bokros-hegy, above
Balatonberény.
∑ balaton-tourism.hu
2 Balatonföldvár
This town owes its name to Iron Age Veszprém
Balatonfűzfő
fortifications called földvár, remains of
which can still be seen. The village’s leafy
promenade is generally considered the Balatonkenese
finest on the south shore. Balatonalmádi
Budapest
3 Kőröshegy Veszprém
A short detour south of
Balatonföldvár is Kőröshegy,
with a well-preserved Gothic J
Balatonfüred
fortified church dating
from 1460.
Tihany
Siófok
J
Zánka
on
l at
Ba
ke
La
Balatonboglár Balatonlelle
Halastó
4 Balatonszemes
This quiet resort has a Postal and
J Carriage Museum. Its tree-lined
streets are ideal for a stroll and
there is an aquapark nearby.
Lengyeltóti
5 Somogyvár
Somogyvár is well worth the detour south
0 kilometres 10
from Buzsák – the impressive ruins of the
Benedictine monastery here date back to 0 miles 5
the 11th century.
Key
6 Buzsák
7 Fonyód The Living Museum of Arts and Motorway
Unremarkable as a resort, Crafts at Buzsák is the best place Tour route
Fonyód sits at the foot of the around Balaton to learn about
Minor road
largest hill on the southern the traditions of the lake and its
shore, the 233-m (764-ft) high people. Fine cloth, pottery and Railway
Várhegy, an extinct volcano. garments are still made here. Ferry route
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
187 km (116 miles) SW of
Budapest. * 10,000.
n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 28,
(083) 314 144. _ Balaton Festival
(May), Helikon Chamber Music
Festival (May). ∑ keszthely.hu
Transport
k 10 km (6 miles) S of centre.
£ Kazinczy utca. @ Kazinczy
Excavated fishing equipment on display at the Balaton Museum utca. 4 Kazinczy utca.
Keszthely Town
A
UTC
R
TÉ
Centre
ZEG
Coach
R
Festetics
S
VÁ S Á
KATO NA
CSER
Museum A
Palace JÓ ZS EF UTC
1 Fő Square and Town Hall
Marzipan
A
K A S T E LY U T
2 Franciscan Church
UTC
Museum UTCA
RÁKÓCZI TA P O L C A I
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3 Kossuth Utca Ó UT
ASZT
PÁ L
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LO V A S S Y
Waxwork CA
J U
D ÓZ SA UT
6 Doll and Waxwork Museum
ADY
Museum
SÁN
UTCA
BEM
Georgikon Farm
ENDRE
Museum VAR O SH Á Z U TC A A
TES SED IK UTC
UTCA
Town Hall M A LO M
BERCSÉNYI
UTCA CA
UTC
FŐ
RÁK
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SZECH Franciscan NC
UT C A RE
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A FE
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IN
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IN
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TC
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N
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B E R I B A LO G A
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FE
LÓ S
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K
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U TCA
River boat
C
Station
CA
ICS
B a l a to n
HONVÉD
RÓMAI
TET
FES
Hévíz-Balaton Airport
10 km (6 miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
360 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
. Baroque Tower
Keszthely: Festetics Palace This Neo-Baroque
Festetics Palota façade is based on the
French stately homes
Originally the home of the Festetics family, of the same era. The
the stately Neo-Baroque Festetics Palace is the central tower’s dome,
however, evokes an
magnum opus of little-known architect Viktor earlier Baroque style.
Rumpelmayer, who redesigned the palace in the
1880s. It was requisitioned by the Soviet Army
in 1944. Today, the palace houses the Helikon
Palace Museum, which is a popular day trip from
Lake Balaton (see p356–7). More than half of the
palace’s 101 rooms are open to the public, and
feature fine examples of exotic art, furniture Main entrance
and arms gathered on the family’s many foreign
expeditions. The palace is famous for its
100,000-volume library and its fine English
gardens, which cover over 42 ha (104 acres).
English Gardens
English stately homes
were the inspiration for the
beautiful palace gardens.
These were laid out by the
English landscape artist
Edward Miller.
Carriage Museum
In the palace’s former stables, the Carriage
Museum is home to a priceless collection of
hunting and parade coaches and carriages
from the 18th and early 19th centuries.
KEY
The World of Islam
1 Weapons display
The Festetics family filled the mansion with
2 Each room is decorated in a treasures brought back from their travels to
different colour scheme and features North Africa and the Middle East. The
priceless artifacts. collection has been enhanced with loans
from the Tareq Rajab Museum, Kuwait.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 361
Transport
£@4
Chapel
The small, private Festetics
Chapel was built in the 1880s,
when the extent of the palace
was considerably expanded.
. Library
The Rococo Helikon
Library holds over
100,000 volumes on
its oak shelves.
Hungary’s literary
elite gathered here in
the 19th century.
György Festetics
A polymath who combined a love for agriculture
and the arts with the progressive ideals of the
Enlightenment, György Festetics (1755–1819) was
the grandson of Kristóf Festetics, who had been
given the Helikon Estate in 1743 by the
Habsburgs. György is best known for
founding Europe’s first agricultural
Portrait Gallery college, the Georgikon (see p359) at
Beautiful portraits of almost every Keszthely in 1797. A great explorer, he went
member of the Festetics family, as on to become a generous patron of the arts
well as prominent members of and organized poetry and music festivals Statue of György
Hungarian and Viennese society, at the palace. Festetics
line the palace’s walls.
362 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
p Pécs
Cosmopolitan Pécs calls itself “Hungary’s Mediterranean city”,
as the sun shines here for more than 200 days a year. Many of
the city’s streets also have an Oriental feel to them. Pécs was
founded by the Romans, who called the place Sopianae, in the
3rd century AD. It served as the capital of Valeria Province and
was an early centre of Roman Christianity – as evidenced by
the 4th-century tombs on Apáca utca. It was the Ottoman
Turks, however, 1,000 years later, who left the deepest marks
on the city’s landscape. Széchenyi tér, the bustling heart of the
city, is dominated by the former Gazi Kasim Pasha mosque,
the largest surviving original Islamic construction in Hungary. Impressive sculpture outside the Modern
The city also boasts excellent galleries, museums and great Hungarian Gallery
examples of Islamic architecture.
Gulácsy and Farkas Molnár. In
the garden there is a collection
R St Peter’s Cathedral and Zala. A bronze statue of Janos of large granite statues by
Bishops’ Palace Pannonius, a leading humanist, Budapest-born sculptor Pierre
Dóm tér. Tel (072) 513 050. stands in front of the cathedral. Szekely. Outdoor events are
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, Opposite is the deep red, also staged here in summer.
1–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm 19th-century Neo-Renaissance
Tue–Sat, 1–4pm Sun. 8 7 Bishops’ Palace (Püspöki Palota). E Csontváry Museum
The historic centre of Pécs, It has a statue of Hungary’s Janus Pannonius utca 11.
Dóm tér, is dominated by most prominent musician Tel (072) 310 544. Open 10am–4pm
St Peter’s Cathedral (Szent Péter Franz Liszt in a raincoat, on the Tue–Sun. & 8 7
Székesegyház), first built as a southern balcony. The palace A tortured soul and former
Neo-Romanesque church in is home to one of Hungary’s pharmacist turned artist, Tivadar
1009 when St Stephen made largest libraries. Kosztka Csontváry (1853–1919)
Pécs a bishopric. The original produced most of his work
church, which burnt down in E Modern Hungarian between 1903 and 1909, after
1064, was replaced by a Baroque Gallery which he moved to Naples. Most
cathedral built over nearly 200 Káptalan utca 4. Tel (072) 514 040. of Kosztka Csontváry’s master-
years. Badly damaged by the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 pieces, including the startling
Mongols, it was almost entirely 7 ∑ jpm.hu View of the Dead Sea from the
rebuilt as a Gothic church in the One of the finest collections Temple Square in Jerusalem (1905),
15th century. The current edifice of 20th-century Hungarian have been on display in this Neo-
dates from 1891, and is the work art in the country with more Renaissance building since 1973.
of Viennese architect Friedrich than 10,000 pieces, this gallery
Schmidt. The interior is impressive, (Modern Magyarképtár) P Apáca Utca and Early
especially the frescoes in the features works by every major Christian Mausoleum
chapel by Károly Lotz and the artist of the age, including Christian Burial Site Apáca utca 14:
reliefs in the crypt by György József Rippl-Rónai, Lajos Tel (072) 224 755. Open by appt only;
book in advance. & 8 Early Christian
Mausoleum: Szent István tér 4. Open
Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–
Mar: 10am–3:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Four graves at Apáca utca
14, all from AD 390, mark one
of the earliest Christian burial
sites in Europe. The bodies are
buried under a chapel, and
not in sarcophagi. Nearby, the
Early Christian Mausoleum
(Ókeresztény Mauzóleum), below
an excavated chapel, is even
older, dating from AD 275. It is
decorated with biblical frescoes.
These and two further burial
chambers at Pécs were declared
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
St Peter’s Cathedral, with its distinctive corner towers in 2000.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 363
JA Walls
IK ÚT CA
2 Modern Hungarian Gallery AN UT
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3 Csontváry Museum St Peter’s Gallery
CA
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0 yards 100 Railway Station
750 m (820 yards)
Szilvásvárad
J
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956 m (3,136 ft)
Szalajka
Istállós-kő
959 m (3,146 ft)
Stimecz-ház
Szarvaskő
Felsőtárkány
Vineyards in Felsőtárkány
The pretty town of Felsőtárkány,
surrounded by vineyards and parks, is one
of the best gateways to Bükk National Park.
Várhegy
669 m (2,195 ft)
KEY Síkfőkút
Eg er
1 Romanesque Bélapátfalva,
Felnémet
erected by Cistercian monks in the
Eger
1200s, is the best preserved abbey
5 km (3 miles)
in Hungary.
2 The Szalajka Narrow Gauge
Railway runs along the entire length
of the Szalajka Valley during summer.
Climbing on Felső-
Borovnyák
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The steep, high cliffs of
Practical Information
the Bükk offer challenging
n Tourinform Eger, Bajcsy-
rock-climbing experiences
Zsilinszky tér 9, (036) 517 715;
for even the most
Tourinform Miskolc, Varoshaz
experienced climbers.
tér 13, (046) 350 425.
Anna Cave: Open 10am–4pm
daily. 8 Subalyuk Cave: Open
Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm daily.
∑ bnpi.hu
Mályinka Transport
143 km (89 miles) NE of
Budapest. £ @ to Eger,
Miskolc, Lillafüred, Szilvásvárad.
ík
e ns
s- F Garadna
Ki Újmassa
Hámori-tó
Hámor
Ómassa
István- Tűzköves
Bánkút lápa Cave 895 m (2,936 ft)
Lillafüred
Anna Cave
ík
ns Bükkszentlászló Six interconnected
- Fe Stará Huta Miskolc caves are accessible via
kk
Bü Rejtek
Bükkszentkereszt 10 km (6 miles) a series of natural
Nová Huta limestone staircases.
Répáshuta
Nagybodzás
668 m (2,192 ft)
Bükk Mountains
The Bükk region is renowned for its clean
Magas-tető air. The highest peak in the mountains is
664 m (2,178 ft)
Istállós-kő.
Hajnoczy
Cave
0 kilometres 3
Bükkzsérc
0 miles 3
Cserépfalu
Key
Major road
Other road
Subalyuk Cave
Railway
Traces of Palaeolithic Man have been
Trail found in this cave, making it one of the
Summit oldest-known dwellings in Europe.
For keys to symbols see back flap
368 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
d Eger E Lyceum
Eszterházy Károly tér 1. Tel (036) 520
Situated off the main road from Budapest to the east of Hungary, 400. Open 9:30am–1pm Sat–Sun.
&87
Eger is a sleepy, provincial town dominated by its castle (see
pp370–71) and the legend of the great siege of 1552. Eger has Founded in 1765 by Bishop
Károly Eszterházy as a Catholic
been rebuilt twice, almost from scratch, by the church. After university, this university
destruction by the Mongols in 1241, it was reconstructed with (Líceum, Eszterházy Károly
money from the Minorite and Franciscan Orders. After the Főiskola) was relegated to
withdrawal of the Ottomans in 1687, the local bishopric revived the ranks of a lyceum by
the town by commissioning many of the Baroque masterpieces the imperial authorities who
opposed the idea of a church
that remain today, including the cathedral, the Lyceum and
university. The highlight is
the Bishop’s Palace. Nowadays, Eger is also known for its the library, which holds over
Bull’s Blood wine (see p371) and its university. 150,000 volumes, including
the first book ever printed in
R Eger Cathedral of the Italian sculptor Marco Hungary, in 1473. The library
Pyrker János tér 1. Tel (036) 515 725. Casagrande. The cathedral’s boasts Johann Kracker’s fresco
Open 8am–8pm daily. 7 5 interior is sombre, brightened of 132 figures, depicting the
The second largest church primarily by Viennese artist meeting of the Council of
in Hungary, Eger Cathedral Johann Kracker’s ceiling Trent (1545–63). The tower is
(Főszékesegyház – Szent János frescoes of the Kingdom of Hungary’s leading centre of
Apostol És Evangélista Szent Heaven on the inside of the astronomy, with a collection
Mihály Főangyal) is the most cupola. The cathedral is also of astronomical items and a
astonishing sight in the town, home to Hungary’s largest 19th-century camera obscura.
though its mixture of Neo- organ, which is played every
Classical and Neo-Romanesque Sunday after morning mass
styles, in bright yellow, may not at 12:45pm.
be to everyone’s taste. It was
built between 1831 and 1837 P Bishop’s Palace
to a design by the architect Széchenyi utca 1. Tel (036) 517 589.
József Hild, who would later Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat.
design the even larger and The second element of central
more stunning basilica at Eger’s ecclesiastical architectural
Esztergom (see p348). triumvirate is the former Bishop’s
The cathedral is unique in Palace (Római Katolikus Érseki
Hungary, with a cupola, which Palota). It was built in Baroque
at 40 m (131 ft) is shorter than style to the designs of 18th-
the two western towers, which century architect Jakab Kellner Façade of the Lyceum, built as a
measure 44 m (144 ft). At the and completed in 1766. Catholic university
other end of the building, The palace houses the
three gargantuan statues Ecclesiastical Collection of the P Kossuth Lajos Utca
loom over the colonnaded Eger Bishopric, and the coronation The wide boulevard of
Neo-Classical façade. These cloak of Habsburg Empress Kossuth Lajos utca has long been
represent Faith, Hope and Maria Theresa among other home to Eger’s most important
Charity, and were the work priceless objects. administrative and ecclesiastical
buildings. At No. 4 is the Vice-
Provost’s Palace, a pastel-shaded
Rococo mansion with a façade
of hewn stone dating from 1758.
On the same side of the street, at
No. 14, is the Franciscan Church
and Monastery, a single-nave
church built in 1738 on the ruins
of a mosque.
Opposite, at No. 9, is
the Baroque County Hall,
completed in 1758. It is famed
for the two grand wrought-iron
gates, crafted by the blacksmith
Henrik Fazola (1730–79), who
moved to Eger from Germany
to take the city’s waters. He is
The sombre interior of Eger Cathedral, brightened by ceiling frescoes also responsible for most of
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 369
S E R V I TA
IC
3 Lyceum G. UTCA
H
UTCA
A
KÁ
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C A Y Castle
S J. U TC K ÖZ ON
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CA
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Corridors
7 Eger Castle pp370–71 Korona Hotel Minaret Under-
Wine Cellar ground
UT
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0 metres 100 Cathedral LA
HÁ
PYRKER H
JÁNOS UT
SS
ZY
100 TÉR
0 yards KO
T Ö RV É N
YHÁZ UTCA
Railway Station
1 km (0.6 mile)
Art Gallery
The Art Gallery hosts an unrivalled
collection of Hungarian Baroque paintings
and sculptures, including this bas-relief
above the entrance.
KEY
1 Round Tower
Dobó Bastion
2 Ticket Office The bastions and walls
3 Cannon Hill were fortified from the
mid-1500s under
4 Three Crosses Hill
István Dobó, who led
5 Tomb of Gárdonyi the defenders during
the siege.
For hotels and restaurants see p378 and p379
HUNGARY 371
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Vár utca, Eger. Tel (036) 312 744.
Open Nov–Feb: 8am–5pm; Mar
& Oct: 8am–6pm; May–Aug: 8am–
8pm; Apr & Sep: 8am–7pm.
& includes all exhibitions,
extra for camera & guided tours.
7 partly. = _ Castle and
Theatre Festival (Aug).
∑ egrivar.hu
. Ruins of Romanesque Cathedral
Among the ruins of a 10th-century baptistry in the inner courtyard Transport
£ @ 11, 12, 14 from
stands the grave of Eger’s first bishop, Buldus.
Eger Station.
. Underground Corridors
Castle Hill is a warren of under-
ground chambers and paths, dug by
the Ottomans in order to attack the
castle from below. Some 200 m
(656 ft) are open to the public.
Main entrance
the Northern Highlands not capital. Taxis are also a quick and fares are available for those
benefiting from the presence of comfortable way of getting into planning extensive rail travel
at least one of the networks. the city. within the country. European
Post offices are open from 8am Rail Passes (Eurail) are also valid.
to 6pm Monday to Friday and
on Saturday mornings. Visitors Rail Travel
should be prepared to wait as The Hungarian national rail Travelling by Bus
service is slow and there are network is efficient, reliable Buses to all European destinations
often long queues. and punctual. Budapest has depart from Népliget Station.
direct rail links to 25 other Within Hungary, the state-owned
capital cities, with Keleti Pu Volánbusz company operates
Arriving by Air Station handling the majority an extensive network of buses
Budapest’s international of international traffic. High- to most cities and towns.
airport is Ferenc Liszt Airport, speed trains to Vienna, the
located 16 km (10 miles) from main communications hub for
the city centre. British Airways Western Europe, depart every Travelling by Car
operates three daily scheduled 3 hours approximately and Although the government
flights from London. Many take about 3 hours to get there. has recently invested in a new
low-cost airlines also operate Almost all trains within motorway network, many towns
daily flights from London. Hungary are operated by Magyar are still only connected by
Other major airlines flying Államvasutak (MÁV), a state- single-lane roads. To hire a car,
from the US and Canada to owned company that offers visitors should be aged 21 or
Hungary include Air France, excellent value for money. There over and they must have held a
British Airways, KLM, Lufthansa are different types of local trains, valid driving license for at least
and Delta Airlines, although each categorized according to a year. An international driving
services entail a transfer or its speed: személy (slow), sebes licence is also useful. Most of
touch down at another (speedy) or gyors (fast). the international car hire firms
European city. There are also modern have offices at the airport in
The Airport Minibus Shuttle Intercity services between Budapest, and rent-als can also
takes passengers from the Budapest and the larger cities. be arranged through travel
airport to any address in the A number of concessionary agencies and at hotels.
DIRECTORY
Documentation United States British Airways Keleti Pu Station
1054 Szabadság tér 12, Tel (01) 411 5555 Kerepesi út 2/6, Budapest.
∑ mfa.gov.hu Tel (01) 313 6835.
Budapest. Tel (01) 475 (Hungary).
4400. ∑ hungary. Tel 0845 773 3377 ∑ mav-start.hu
Visitor usembassy.gov (UK). Tel 877 428 2228 Magyar Államvasutak
Information
(US). Kerepesi út 3, Budapest.
Emergency Tel (01) 313 7214.
BTH Tourinform Numbers Delta Airlines
Liszt Ferenc tér 11, ∑ mav.hu
Tel (01) 301 6680
Budapest. Ambulance (Hungary).
Tel 104. Travelling by Bus
Tel (01) 322 4098. Tel 888 750 3284
Fire (US). Népliget Station
Hungarian National
Tel 105. Üllői út 131, Budapest.
Tourist Office Ferenc Liszt Tel (01) 219 8080.
∑ tourinform.hu Police Airport
Tel 107. Tel (01) 296 9696. Volánbusz
Tourinform Budapest Üllői út 131, Budapest.
Sütö utca 2, Budapest. Facilities for KLM Tel (01) 219 8063
Tel (01) 438 8080. the Disabled Tel (01) 373 7737 (reservations).
∑ tourinform.hu (Hungary). ∑ volanbusz.hu
Hungarian Disabled Tel 800 374 7747 (US).
Embassies Association
1032 San Marco utca 76, Lufthansa
Canada Budapest. Tel (01) 388 Tel (01) 411 9900
1027 Ganz út 12–14, 2388. ∑ meosz.hu (Hungary).
Budapest. Tel 800 645 3880 (US).
Tel (01) 392 3360. Arriving by Air
Rail Travel
United Kingdom Air France
1051 Harmincad utca 6, Tel (01) 483 8800 European Rail
Budapest. (Hungary). Tel 800 237 Passes (Eurail)
Tel (01) 266 2888. 2747 (US). ∑ raileurope.com
376 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
DIRECTORY
Markets Food and Drink Papp László Expresszó Club
Budapest SportArena Brusznyai út 2,
Central Market Hall House of Palinka Veszprém.
Vámház körút 1–3 Stefánia út 2, Budapest.
Rákóczi út 17, Budapest. Tel (020) 938 0411.
Fövám tér, Tel (01) 422 2600.
Tel (01) 338 4219. Mythos Music Club
Budapest. Szabadsag tér 1,
Pécs National Theatre
Tel (01) 366 3300. Music, Opera Veszprém.
Preczel Miklós út 17, Pécs.
and Dance Palace Disco
Folk Art Tel (072) 512 675.
Deák Ferenc
Folkart Centrum A38 St Stephen’s Basilica Sétány 2, Siófok.
Váci út 58, Pázmány Péter Sétány Szent István tér 2, Tel (084) 350 698.
Budapest. 3–11, Budapest. Budapest.
Tel (01) 318 5840. Tel (01) 464 3940.
Tel (01) 318 9159.
Folkart Kézművesház Cultur-Comfort
State Opera House
Régposta út 12, Central Ticket Office
Budapest. Andrássy út 22, Budapest.
Paulay Ede út 31,
Tel (01) 318 5143. Tel (01) 332 7914.
Budapest.
Tel (01) 322 0000. Music Festivals
Porcelain, Crystal
and Antiques Erkel Theatre
Debrecen Jazz
Ajka Crystal Köztársaság tér 30,
Festival
Jozsef Attila 7, Budapest. Budapest.
∑ debrecen.hu
Tel (01) 317 8133. Tel (01) 333 0540.
Where to Stay
PEST: Cotton House Price Guide
Budapest Boutique Map D2 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Jókai út 26, 1066
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
BUDA: Abel Panzió Tel (01) 354 2600
∑ cottonhouse.hu under 15,000 HUF
Value
15,000 to 35,000 HUF
Ábel Jenö utca 9, 1113 This atmospheric hotel has over 35,000 HUF
Tel (01) 209 2537 some of the best-decorated
∑ abelpanzio.hu rooms in Hungary, each themed
This restored family villa in a leafy on a famous stage or screen star. In an atmospheric building from
street in Buda offers charming 1753, this hotel enjoys a main-
rooms and good service. PEST: K & K Opera square location; neat, attractive
Boutique Map D3 rooms, many with castle views.
BUDA: BI & BI Guesthouse Révay utca 24, 1065
Value Tel (01) 269 0222 KESTHELY: Helikon
Retek utca 16, 1024 ∑ kkhotels.com Luxury
Tel (01) 786 0955 Located close to the Opera House, Balaton-part 5, 8360
∑ bibipanzio.hu this hotel offers comfortable Tel (083) 889 600
Stay in neat rooms and enjoy a rooms behind a splendid façade. ∑ hotelhelikon.hu
decent breakfast at this friendly The modern high-rise Helikon
guesthouse close to the Castle PEST: Kempinski offers plush rooms, many with
District and a metro station. Corvinus superb views across the water.
Luxury Map D3
BUDA: Burg Erzsébet tér 7, 1051 PECS: Palatinus
Value Map B2 Tel (01) 429 3777 Boutique
Szantháromság tér 7, 1014 ∑ kempinski.com Király utca 5, 7621
Tel (01) 212 0269 An exclusive hotel popular Tel (072) 889 400
∑ burghotelbudapest.com with visiting heads of state, ∑ danubiushotels.com
The Burg provides small but the Corvinus has luxurious rooms Palatinus is decorated with a
comfortable en-suite rooms, and a host of excellent facilities. mixture of Art Nouveau and Art
several of which boast fabulous Deco styles. Sumptuous rooms
views of the Mátyás Church. PEST: Mamaison and a basement spa centre.
Hotel Andrassy
Boutique PECS: Patria
DK Choice Andrassy út 111, 1063 Boutique
BUDA: Gellert Tel (01) 462 2100 Rákóczi utca 3, 7621
Luxury Map D5 ∑ mamaison.com Tel (072) 889 500
Szent Gellért tér 1, 1111 Situated in a Bauhaus-style ∑ danubiushotels.com
Tel (01) 889 5500 building, the Andrassy offers The wonderfully designed Patria
∑ danubiushotels.com elegance, intimacy, superb is a modernist masterpiece. The
Visited by Hungarian high service, and a touch of romance. rooms are bright and colourful.
society since World War I, this
legendary spa hotel has both SIÓFOK: Janus
indoor and outdoor pools fed Boutique Hotel & Spa
by healing spring waters. The Rest of Hungary Boutique
rooms are opulently decorated, Fö ut 93–95, 8600
and the social areas feature Art EGER: Senator-ház Tel (084) 312 516
Nouveau decor. Massages and Modern ∑ janushotel.hu
other wellness treatments are Dobó tér 11, 3300 Individually designed rooms with
available. Wonderful views Tel (036) 411 711 varied themes ranging from
across the Danube. ∑ senatorhaz.hu Japanese to Gothic.
PEST: Astoria
Boutique Map D4
Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21, 1053
Tel (01) 889 6000
∑ danubiushotels.com
In a predominantly Art Nouveau
building, the Astoria has spacious
rooms, an elegant café, and a lovely
Neo-Baroque breakfast room. The classy Cotton House hotel in Pest
For map references see pp324–5
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 379
VIENNA
Originally a Celtic settlement, Vienna’s hindered its progress, and it was not until
location on the edge of the Hungarian plains 1683, with the final defeat of the Ottoman
made it vulnerable to attacks, and Barbarian Turks, that Vienna was able to flourish. In
invasions reduced the town to ruins by the the mid-19th century, the city’s defences
early 5th century. In the 10th century, the were demolished and the Ringstrasse, a
German Babenberg Dynasty acquired Vienna wide circular boulevard, was built, linking
and it became a major trading centre. Later, new political and cultural institutions. Today,
in the 13th century, Vienna came under the Vienna is an architectural delight, with its
control of the prosperous Habsburgs, who magnificent palaces, imposing churches and
remained in power until 1918. In the 16th world-class museums. The city’s rich cultural
century, the threat of Ottoman invasion scene and vibrant nightlife add to its appeal.
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0 metres 500
Key
. Augustinerkirche
The Habsburgs’ former parish church houses
the late 18th-century tomb of Maria Christina,
Maria Theresa’s daughter.
Prunksaal
The showpiece of the
Austrian National Library is
the grand, wood-panelled
Prunksaal, or Hall of Honour.
KEY
Neue Burg
The last wing of
Hofburg was built just
before the outbreak
of World War I, during
the final days of
the monarchy.
Volksgarten
Schweizertor
This 16th-century
gateway leads to
the Schweizerhof, the
oldest part of
the Hofburg, originally
a stronghold with
four towers.
. State Apartments
The table in the state banqueting
hall is laid as it used to be during
the latter part of the reign of
Franz Joseph I (1848–1916).
384 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE
Augustinerkirche
Augustinerstrasse 3. Tel (01) 5330
9470. ∑ augustinerkirche.at
One of the oldest parts of the
Hofburg complex, the church has
one of the city’s best-preserved
14th-century Gothic interiors. The
Loreto Chapel here has a series of
silver urns that contain the hearts
of the Habsburg family. The church
is also celebrated for its music,
with masses by Schubert or Haydn
performed here on Sundays. Ornamental pond in the Volksgarten, with Burgtheater in the background
For hotels and restaurants see p390 and p391
VIENNA 385
DIRECTORY
Visitor Canada Police Ryanair
Information Tel (01) 531 383 000. Tel 133. ∑ ryanair.com
∑ kanada.at
Jugendinformation Communications Schwechat
Wien United Kingdom International Airport
∑ jugendinfowien.at Tel (01) 716 130. Telekom Austria
∑ telekom.at ∑ viennaairport.com
∑ britishembassy.at
Österreich Werbung
∑ austria.info United States Arriving by Air Rail Travel
Tel (01) 313 39.
Wiener ∑ usembassy.at Austrian Airlines Rail Enquiry
Tourismusverband ∑ aua.com ∑ oebb.at
∑ wien.info Emergency British Airways
Numbers Arriving by Coach
Embassies ∑ britishairways.com
Ambulance Delta Airlines Busterminal Erdberg
Australia Erdbergstrasse 200A.
Tel 144. ∑ delta.com
Tel (01) 506 740.
∑ australian-embassy. Fire Fly Niki Eurolines
at Tel 122. ∑ flyniki.com ∑ eurolines.com
VIENNA 389
Where to Stay
Lively metropolitan hotel located Price Guide
Vienna close to the city’s nightlife. Hearty Prices are based on one night’s stay in
breakfast spread for late risers. high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hotel Post €
Boutique Kaiserin Elisabeth €€ € under €150
Fleischmarkt 24, 1010 Luxury €€ €150 to €250
€€€ over €250
Tel (01) 515 830 Weihburggasse 3, 1010
∑ hotel-post-wien.at Tel (01) 515 260
Uniquely designed rooms at this ∑ kaiserinelisabeth.at Famous for its huge breakfast
6-storey hotel, most with a private Visit this traditional hotel with 63 buffet, this hotel also has a
bathroom. Great on-site restaurant. non-smoking rooms and a host lovely café and a well-
of in-room amenities. stocked bar.
DK Choice Pension Aviano €€
Hollmann Beletage €€ Pension Pension Schottentor €
Boutique Marco-d'Aviano-Gasse 1, 1010 Pension
Köllnerhofgasse 6, 1010 Tel (01) 512 8330 Hörlgasse 4, 1090
Tel (01) 961 1960 ∑ aviano-pension-vienna.h-rez.com/ Tel (01) 319 1176
∑ hollmann-beletage.at Traditional Viennese decor at this ∑ tinyurl.com/l4b2hho
With its sleek tangerine and non-smoking, pet-friendly pension. Family-run three-star pension
granite decor and 25 spacious with neat rooms and all
rooms boasting an array of Palais Coburg €€€ basic amenities.
gadgets, this hotel is an absolute Luxury
gem. Mammoth breakfasts, Coburgbastei 4, 1010 The Levante
friendly staff and a sauna are just Tel (01) 518 180 Parliament €€
a few of the many perks of this ∑ coburg.at Boutique
family-run boutique hotel. Opulence complements history Auerspergstrasse 9, 1080
beautifully at this exclusive hotel. Tel (01) 228 280
Grand rooms and stunning service. ∑ thelevante.com
Hotel Am Parkring €€ Unwind in the gorgeous
Boutique Palais Hansen courtyard of this hotel with
Parkring 12, 1015 Kempinski Vienna €€€ an eye-catching glass bar
Tel (01) 514 800 Luxury and a Finnish sauna.
∑ schick-hotels.com Schottenring 24, 1010
The city views from this privately- Tel (01) 236 1000 Hotel am Konzerthaus €
owned hotel are stunning. It has ∑ kempinski.com Boutique
modern, comfortable rooms. Elegant rooms and suites with all Am Heumarkt 35–37, 1030
high-tech facilities. Great location. Tel (01) 716 160
Hotel Am Stephansplatz €€ ∑ mgallery.com/Vienna
Boutique Altstadt Vienna € This 211-room hotel attracts
Stephansplatz 9, 1010 Boutique a sophisticated clientele
Tel (01) 534 050 Kirchengasse 41, 1070 with sumptuous breakfasts,
∑ hotelamstephansplatz.at Tel 522 66 66 an excellent restaurant and
This hotel is popular with both ∑ altstadt.at high-tech rooms.
business and leisure guests and Choose from 42 exquisitely
features paintings by famous decorated rooms that blend period Imperial €€€
artists such as Patricia Karg. character and exotic modernity. Luxury
Kärntner Ring 16, 1015
Hotel Capricorno €€ Harmonie € Tel (01) 501 100
Boutique Boutique ∑ imperialvienna.com
Schwedenplatz 3–4, 1010 Harmoniegasse 5–7, 1090 Stately 1800s hotel with
Tel (01) 5333 1040 Tel (01) 317 6604 exquisite rooms. Butlers
∑ schick-hotels.com ∑ bestwestern-ce.com serve the suites.
Maribor
Ljubljana
SLOVENIA Zagreb
(see pp396–429)
Virovitica
Rijeka Karlovac Osijek
Novi Sad
BOSNIA AND
CROATIA HERZEGOVINA
(see pp430–483) (see pp484–501)
Jajce Zvornik
Zadar
Zagreb (see pp466–73), capital of Croatia Sarajevo
and an important regional cultural centre, Užice
boasts a fine collection of museums and Split Jablanica
galleries and a year-round supply of
top-quality music and theatre. MONTENEGRO
(see pp502–519)
0 km 100
0 miles 100
Suceava
Satu Mare
Iaşi
Oradea
Târgu
Cluj-Napoca Mureş
ROMANIA Bârlad
Arad (see pp542–573)
Deva
Braşov Galaţi
Buzău
Târgu Jiu
Belgrade Piteşti
Požarevac Bucharest
Constanţa
Craiova
SERBIA
(see pp520–541)
Calafat Ruse
Paraćin
Pleven
Niš Montana Sofia (see pp578–85), capital of
Varna
Bulgaria, is rich in Roman
Veliko Tûrnovo remains, medieval treasures
Grdelica
BULGARIA and Orthodox churches. The
Sofia (see pp574–611) Burgas cavernous Neo-Byzantine
Aleksandûr Nevski Memorial
Kyustendil Plovdiv Haskovo
Church serves as the city’s
graceful centrepiece.
SLOVENIA
Despite being one of Europe’s smallest nations, Slovenia offers magnificently
varied scenery and splendid architecture. Since 1991, it has re-established itself
as a major holiday destination for outdoor pursuits, high-quality health spas
and ski resorts. Economic growth has helped sustain tourism, and the lively
people make Slovenia a welcoming place to visit.
Few countries in South Eastern Europe basin settled in the Drava and Sava
pack as much variety into such a small valleys. A Slav tribal state known as
geographical area as Slovenia. The Carantania came into existence in the
landscape changes swiftly between territory of present-day Slovenia and
the Alps and limestone plateaus, dense southern Austria, but this soon came
forests and Mediterranean coastline, under the control of more powerful
all within a very short distance of each German-speaking rulers.
other. At the heart of the country is In the medieval period, the
Ljubljana, a city combining graceful country was governed by feudal
architecture with an exuberant lifestyle. landowners, including the Babenbergs,
The population is relatively the Spannheims and the Counts
homogenous with 83 per cent of its of Celje. Ultimate authority was
two million inhabitants ethnically also wielded at various times by
Slovene. Small but significant minorities Hungarian kings, German emperors
include Albanians, Bosnians, Croats and and the Austrian Habsburg family,
Serbs, who came to live and work in who established control over most
Slovenia during the Yugoslav period. of Slovenia by the 15th century.
Around the same time, the
History Ottoman Turks mounted attacks
The Slovene nation has its origins in deep into Central Europe, turning
the great migrations of the 6th century, Slovenia into the front line in the
when Slav tribes from the Carpathian region’s defence.
Exploring Slovenia
A delightful destination in its own right, Ljubljana is also a
good base from which to explore the rest of the country.
The city lies at the centre of Slovenia’s road and rail network
and many regional attractions are within a couple of hours’
drive. To the north are the grand Julian Alps, towering
above Lakes Bled and Bohinj. To the west, routes cross the
cave-studded karst region before descending towards the
coast, characterized by Venetian-style architecture and
lush vegetation.
Sights at a Glance
1 Ljubljana pp400–407 q Soča Valley Tour p413
2 Postojna Cave pp408–409 w Kobarid
Traditional Alpine farmhouses along a
3 Predjama Castle e Bovec stream, Lake Bohinj
4 Škocjan Caves r Kranjska Gora
5 Koper t Bled pp416–17
6 Piran y Triglav National Park pp418–21
7 Portorož u Velika Planina
8 Hrastovlje i Logarska Dolina
9 Lipica o Maribor pp422–23
0 Idrija p Ptuj
Murska Sobota
3
Kranjska Gora Dravograd 1
AUS TRI A Maribor Dr A5 Lendava
Jesenice 4 av
Soča Logarska a
Bovec Bled Ptuj
Dolina A1 2 Ormož
Triglav Velenje
Kobarid Tolmin Velika Planina
National Park
9
a
Stahovica D r a vi n j
Soča Celje
Sav
Žalec
A2
A1
Laško CR O AT I A
LJUBLJANA
Idrija Litija
Radeče
a Sevnica
A1
10 ic
Nova Gorica 2 bljan A2
5
H4 Lju
Trebnje
10
A2 Brežice
6
Predjama Castle
Postojna Cave
Kr
ka
A3
Divača Postojna
Lipica Kočevje
Škocjan Caves
Piran Koper Matavun
7 Črnomelj
Portorož Hrastovlje
CR O ATI A Vinica
0 kilometers 40
0 miles 40
Key
Highway
Major road
Railway
Sequin Castle
1 Ljubljana
Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana, began life as the Roman
colony of Emona, a major trading centre that was
sacked by the Huns in AD 452. Reoccupied by Slavs
in the 7th century, the focus of the settlement was
moved to the east bank of the Ljubljanica river,
where both Ljubljana Castle and the Old Town are
located today. With a population of two hundred TIVOLI
PARK
and eighty thousand, it is one of Europe’s smallest
capital cities. The Prešeren Square (Prešernov trg) is Tivoli Castle
A
ST
are located on the left bank.
CE
A
K
LS
O
IV
Sights at a Glance T
1 Ljubljana Castle
0 metres 500
2 St Nicholas’s Cathedral
VA
500
NO
0 yards
3 Market
ŠER
4 Prešeren Square
PRE
5 National Gallery of Slovenia
6 Tivoli Park
Key
7 Museum of Modern Art
8 National Museum of Slovenia Street-by-Street area: see pp402–403
9 National and University Library Major sight / Place of interest
0 Plečnik House Pedestrian street
The Triple Bridge spanning the Ljubljanica river, designed by leading architect Jože Plečnik
A
ST
CE
G
O
KA
SP
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SV
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TA V
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M AL A UL
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House ES
MIK
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POLJA N SKI NA
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REPUBLIKE DOV
VES
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Cankarjev A
CANKARJEV
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Dom RIBJI
ST
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A
VA C Church
ES DVORNI Hall
GLE
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Pod Trančo
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L EVS T I K O V TR G
Museum GO
RN
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TR St Florian’s
G
Church
ZOISO
C E S TA
St James’
VA C E S TA Church
VRTNA ULICA
KAR
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GRUDNOVO N
Gruber ŠK
NSKA
Palace A
CE
ST
KRAKOVSK I NA
A
B A R JA
MI
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ABR
C E S TA
REČNA ULICA
EŽJ
SI
Getting Around
P
GR
AD A Š ULI CA
KA
Lj
Central Ljubljana is small and all
C E S TA
UL I
CA u
TR
O VA
bl
A
ULIC
ja
KA
OL E Z I J S
ni
KARUNOVA
VS
K
An extensive bus network links
ca
K
PR
I
BARJANSKA
IS
TA
N
the city centre to the suburbs,
and buses run from early morning
CA
Z I H E R LO V A ULICA
cheaper if arranged by phone.
A fast modern funicular takes
visitors up the steep hill to
Ljubljana Castle.
Street-by-Street: Ljubljana
Old Town
Located between the medieval castle and the leafy
banks of the Ljubljanica river, Ljubljana’s Old Town
contains one of the best-preserved ensembles of
Baroque buildings in South Eastern Europe. Arcaded
18th-century houses, domed churches and fountain-
studded piazzas add to its elegant character. Narrow
3 . Market
cobbled alleys such as Stari trg and Mestni trg, lined Ljubljana’s lively outdoor market is known
these days with swanky cafés and upmarket shops, for its fresh herbs and dried mushrooms
provide a vibrant introduction to the Slovene capital. alongside every kind of local produce.
VO
D
Statue of
N
IK
Valentin
O
V
Vodnik
SQ
U
A
R
E
A
D
A
M
IČ
L
U
N
D
R
O
V
O
N
A
B
2 St Nicholas’s Cathedral
R
E
Ž
The cathedral’s bronze doors, JE
decorated with scenes from The Market
the history of Christianity in Colonnade, an
Slovenia, were created in 1996 elongated pavilion
to commemorate the visit of built by architect
Pope John Paul II to Ljubljana. Jože Plečnik in 1939,
houses food shops
and a fish market.
P
Franciscan Church of
the Annunciation
Ljubljana’s most attractive
Baroque church, with a
single nave and two rows
of lateral chapels, con-
tains a splendid 18th-
century altar by Italian The Prešeren Statue,
sculptor Francesco one of Ljubljana’s best-known
Robba, richly adorned landmarks, honours Romantic
with spiral columns poet and national icon
and figurines. France Prešeren.
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
LJUBLJANA 403
1 . Ljubljana Castle
Perched high above the Old Town, the castle’s
clock tower provides a great view of the city
with the Karavanke Mountains in the distance.
MESTN
I TRG
JE
EŽ
BR
A
N Fountain of the Three Rivers
VO of Carniola
JE
K AR Completed in 1751, Francesco Robba’s
N
CA Fountain of the Three Rivers symbolizes
the three main rivers of Slovenia.
G
R
RNOV T
ŠE
E
PR
ČOPOVA
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
ULIC
A
. Ljubljanica Riverbank
The east bank of the river is lined with willow trees, orange- and red-
roofed townhouses and fabulous terrace cafés and restaurants.
404 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
8 National Museum
of Slovenia
Narodni muzej Slovenije
Prešernova 20. Map D2. Tel (01) 241
4400. Open 10am–6pm daily (until
8pm Thu). & = ∑ nms.si
2 Postojna Cave
Postojnska jama
Slovenia’s most popular natural attraction, Postojna Cave
constitutes the longest subterranean system in the country,
with over 20 km (12 miles) of chambers and tunnels. It was
formed by the seeping waters of the Pivka river and its
tributaries, which carved out several levels of underground
galleries over a period of roughly three million years. The cave
was first opened to visitors in 1819, with Austrian Emperor
Francis I as the guest of honour. The site currently receives just
under half a million people a year, making it one of the most-
visited natural attractions in Europe. Inside, magnificent
formations of stalactites and stalagmites seem to stretch Visitors outside the main entrance to
endlessly in all directions. Postojna Cave
Stalactites, formed by
constantly dripping
water, hang from the
ceiling of the cave.
. The Diamond
This huge stalagmite,
also called “Brilliant”,
on account of its
Russian Bridge dazzling white surface
Built by Russian prisoners during World and peculiar shape, is
War I, the Russian Bridge leads to the one of the highlights
Macaroni Hall, which is covered with of the spectacular
stunning pure-white stalactites. Winter Chamber.
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
SLOVENIA 409
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
53 km (33 miles) S of Ljubljana.
n Jamska Cesta 9, Postojna,
(05) 700 0100. ∑ tdpostojna.si.
Open Jul & Aug: tours hourly
9am–6pm; May, Jun & Sep: tours
hourly 9am–5pm; Apr & Oct:
tours at 10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm;
Jan–Mar, Nov–Dec: tours at 10am,
noon & 3pm. & 8 0 - =
∑ postojnska-jama.eu
Transport
Big Mountain
£ from Ljubljana.
This 45-m (147-ft) high rocky
@ from Ljubljana.
mound was created when the
ceiling collapsed.
3 Predjama Castle
Predjamski grad
50 km (31 miles) S of Ljubljana.
@ from Ljubljana. Open Jan–Mar,
Nov–Dec: 10am–4pm; Apr &
Oct: 10am–5pm; May, Jun & Sep:
9am–6pm; Jul & Aug: 9am–7pm. &
- _ Erasmus Jousting Tournament
(Aug). ∑ postojnska-jama.eu
The Vivarium
The cave is the natural habitat of There are few fortresses
this rare worm-like amphibian, more dramatically situated
known as the human fish. It can than Predjama Castle, which
be seen in the Vivarium, where stands halfway up a hillside
visitors can learn about species at the mouth of a cave. The
of the underground world. site was fortified as early as
the 13th century. However,
. White Passage most of what remains today
One among a series of chambers is the result of a 16th-century
collectively known as Beautiful renovation by the then
Caves, the White Passage is crammed owner Ivan Kobencl.
with impressive stalagmites The castle museum has
and stalactites. several fascinating rooms
containing period furnishings
and weaponry. Several exhibits
recall its 15th-century owner
Erazem Lueger, a Robin Hood
figure who, according to legend,
was killed by a cannon ball
that hit the castle. Inside the
chapel is a delicately carved
Gothic pietá dating from 1420.
Steep passageways descend
into the Cave below the castle,
an interesting, atmospheric
underground chamber that can
be visited only by guided tour.
A jumble of pastel-coloured
houses on a small peninsula,
Piran is coastal Slovenia’s most
charming town. The town
centres around Tartini Square
(Tartinijev trg), named after local
violinist and composer Giuseppe
Tartini (1692–1770); Antonio dal
Zotto’s statue of Tartini occupies
the centre. The most striking
building on the square is the
14th-century wine-red Venetian
House (Benečanka hiša), with
delicate Gothic windows and
Breathtaking stalactites in a chamber in the Škocjan Caves balustraded balconies. Nearby,
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
SLOVENIA 411
9 Lipica
85 km (53 miles) SW of Ljubljana.
* 50. £ @ ∑ lipica.org
2 Boka Waterfall
This tumbling waterfall in the
hills west of Bovec is a popular Trenta
tourist spot. 15 km
(9 miles)
Žaga
1 Bovec
The main town of the northern Soča valley,
Bovec is Slovenia’s leading resort for
So
adventure sports.
ča
Drežnica
S
o
Vrsno 0 kilometres 5
Robič
č
a
0 miles 5
V
a
ll
ey
ITALY
Most na Soči Idrija
25 km
(15.5miles)
3 Kobarid
The town of Kobarid witnessed the bloodiest
battles of World War I. The town museum
documents the suffering of the soldiers.
4 Tolmin
The museum in Tolmin sheds
light on the costumes, trades and
lifestyles of the valley’s inhabitants.
Key
Tour route 5 Tolminka Gorge
Other road
Northeast of Tolmin lies the steep Tolminka gorge,
with a walking route running precariously above it.
Railway The Tolmin–Čadrg road crosses the gorge at the
International border Devil’s Bridge (Hudičev most).
Bled Island
Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm; Apr & Oct:
9am–6pm. & - =
∑ blejskiotok.si
Perched atop the hummock-
shaped Bled Island (Blejski otok),
the creamy-ochre Church of the
Assumption (Cerkev Marijinega
vnebovzetja) occupies a site that
has been sacred for centuries.
The island initially served
pagan Slavs as a shrine,
inspiring a famous episode
Boats moored on the forested lakeshore, Bled in France Prešeren’s epic
poem “Baptism at the Savica”
} Lake Bled + Bled Castle (“Krst pri Savici”), in which
Just over 2 km (1 mile) long, Tel (04) 572 9782. Open 8am–6pm the Slovene prince, Črtomir,
2 km (1 mile) wide and 30 m daily (until 8pm Apr–Oct). & 0 - falls in love with the beautiful
(98 ft) deep, Lake Bled (Blejsko = ∑ blejski-grad.si Bogomila, daughter of the
jezero) fills a hollow gouged Dramatically located on a island shrine’s guardian.
out by retreating glaciers sheer cliff overlooking the lake’s After the region’s conversion
towards the end of the last eastern end, Bled Castle (Blejski to Christianity, the island
Ice Age. With wooded hills grad) began as the 11th-century became a focus of Catholic
surrounding the lake and stronghold of the Bishops of pilgrimage. It has been asso-
Alpine peaks in the distance, Brixen, who ruled over the area ciated with the cult of the
it is nothing less than truly until 1803. Rebuilt by various Virgin Mary since the early
entrancing. The best way to owners over the years, the castle Middle Ages, when a wooden
soak in the landscape is to walk now houses an absorbing chapel stood on the site of the
along the path which leads museum and a restaurant. current church. Pilgrimages
right around the lake, a circuit
that takes about an hour to
complete. The most stunning
views are from the western
end, with the church spire on
Bled Island set against the
stupendous backdrop of the
snow-capped Karavanke Alps.
On the southern shore of
the lake, visitors can stop by
the gardens of Vila Bled,
built for Yugoslav strongman
Josip Broz Tito in 1947 and
now converted into an
upmarket hotel. Bled Castle, perched on a rock above the town
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
SLOVENIA 417
EŠ
3 Bled Island G
E R N OV
A
CE
BLED
R
ST
A
A
J
SK
A C EST Lesce-Bled
A
KA PRO
AŠ M ENA
DE
DA TA
L
ES
VES
Bled Jezero AC
Railway Station SK
L JA N
UB
K O LO D
LJ ESTA
AC
ŠK
E
ŽEL
OR
V
S
Lake Bled
KA TA
CES
E
Church of the B OD
Assumption SVO AŽ
O
S TA ST R
CE PO
D
Bled
Island
KI
ML
DR
Vila Bled
IN
IČ E V
E
S KA
AC OD
E STA OB 0 metres 500
CE S
SV
A
ST
TA
0 yards 500
CE
VALLEY
I T A LY
ICA
AN
EY PL
LL AR
Vršič
VA M
TA
Strmec
A
Log Pod RIC Razor
NA GE 2,607 m
Mangartom LI OR
(8,553 ft)
M
G
Trenta
ZADN
Alpinium Juliana Zgornja Kršovec J
VALL ICA
Bavšica ča EY
This lush botanical garden on the southern So
approaches of the Vršič Pass showcases the EY
LL
VA
diverse flora of the Slovene Alps. About 600 TA
Soča
EN
Lake
VALLEY OF THE
TRIGLAV LAKES
Pristava
Lepena
Black Lake
Komal
1,520 m (4,987 ft)
Lo
we
rB
Krn oh
2,182 m inj
(7,159 ft) Mo
unt
ains
Soča Trail
This 20-km (12-mile) long trail runs along the Soča Tolminske
river as it carves its way through the pine-fringed Ravne
Trenta valley to the tiny hamlet of Kršovec.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Key
Valley of the
Minor road
Triglav Lakes
Walking trail This sequence of seven
Cycle route glacial lakes, surrounded
Park boundary
by boulders and spruce
trees, constitutes one
International border of the park’s most
summit captivating sights.
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
SLOVENIA 419
Vrata Valley
A classic glacial valley
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
on the northern side
Practical Information
of Mount Triglav, Vrata
n Bled: Ljubljanska cesta 27,
valley is overlooked by
(04) 578 0200; Trenta: Na Logu,
towering limestone
(05) 3889 330; Mojstrana: Pocar
rock formations.
Farm, Zgornja Radovna 25, (04)
578 0200. 8 ® on Lake Bohinj
and in Bled and Kranjska Gora,
just outside the park. ∑ tnp.si
Transport
60 km (37 miles) NW of Ljubljana.
Gozd @ from Bled.
Martuljek
Zgornja
Y
Radovna
L LE
VA
Ra
A
Y
AT
do
RA
LE
VR
vn
DO
AL
Bled
a
VN
TV
EY
AV
6 km (4 miles)
KO
LL
ALL
VA
Mount
EY
Debela Peč
MA
Triglav
2,014 m
KR
2,864 m
(6,608 ft)
(9,396 ft)
KA PLATEAU
Kanjavec POKLJU
2,569 m
(8,428 ft)
Rudno
Polje
VO
JA
VA
LLE
Y
Gorjuše
Pršivec Mount Triglav
1,761 m
Studor Slovenia’s highest peak, Mount
(5,778 ft)
Triglav is a national symbol; its
Lake Stara
Ukanc Bohinj
three-peaked silhouette appears
Fužina on the national flag.
Ribčev Laz
Mount Vogel
1,922 m (6,306 ft)
KEY
Slap Savica
A popular walking trail west from Ukanc
leads to Slap Savica, a pair of waterfalls
surrounded by high cliffs. Their waters feed
the Sava river, which flows southeast to
meet the Danube at Belgrade in Serbia.
Slap Savica
1.5km (1mile)
c
a
vi
Sa
Ukanc
Mount Vogel
1.5 km (1 mile)
Ukanc
The small village of Ukanc, at the lake’s western
end, has pebbly beaches and is surrounded
by the peaks of Pršivec and Komna.
Mount Vogel
At an altitude of 1,800 m (5,906 ft), Mount Vogel is a
paradise for skiers in winter and hikers in summer. The
cable car from the shores of Lake Bohinj ascends to a
plateau from where there are breathtaking views of
the Triglav massif to the north.
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429
SLOVENIA 421
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n Ribčev Laz 48, (04) 574 6010.
Zlatorog campsite, (04) 572
3482. ∑ bohinj.si Mount Vogel
Cable Car: Open May–mid-Oct:
8am–6pm daily. & Cable car
runs every half hour in peak
season, hourly at other times.
Church of St John: Open Jul &
Aug: 9am–noon daily.
Transport
Stara Fužina 82 km (51 miles) NW of Ljubljana.
£ from Lesce-Bled and
With charming Alpine farmhouses, Stara Fužina is one of the best-
preserved traditional villages in western Slovenia. The 13th-century Ljubljana. @ from Bled
St Paul’s Church, in the outskirts of the village, is also worth a visit. and Ljubljana.
Stara
Fužina
La k e Bohi nj
Kozolec
Church of
The meadows around
St John Stara Fužina are dotted
with canopied hay-
drying racks or kozolec,
Ribčev Laz a common feature
of Slovenian farms.
0 metres 500
Key
0 yards 500
Minor road
Trail
KEY
Regional Museum
3 Main Square
ULICA
4 Lent ULICA PA R T I Z A N S K A C E S TA
KA
S LO V E N S Bus and
5 The Jewish Quarter GRAJSKI
TRG
Railway
Stations
VOLKMER JEV PREHO 550 m
D
(600 yards)
DRŽEČNIK ILIJANA
Cathedral of
IM
A.
UL.
SLOMŠKOV J U R Č I Č E VA
ULICA
TRG
ULICA ŠK
A
O R O Ž N O VA ULIC
UL .
A
OB JARK U
A
ROTOVŠ KI
L EK AR N IŠKA
POŠ TNA ULIC
OSK
TRG
A
ULIC
OSVOJITVE
GOS P
Town
V E T R I N J SK
Hall
AM
ŠKA SQUARE
C E S TA
0 yards 200 PLAGUE
St Alosius’s MONUMENT
Church
ULICA SLO
Quarter
Judgement V SKA
Tower DRA
Old Vine Synagogue
A
P R IS TA N
Lent U LIC
USNJAR S K A Water
Tower
Drava
For hotels and restaurants see p428 and p429 For keys to symbols see back flap
SLOVENIA 423
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
133 km (83 miles) NE of Ljubljana.
* 110,000. n Partizanska cesta
6a, (02) 234 6611. ∑ visitmaribor.si
Transport
£ from Ljubljana, Vienna or
Zagreb. @ from Ljubljana.
+ Ptuj Castle
Tel (02) 748 0360. Open May–mid-
Oct: 9am–6pm daily; mid-Oct–Apr:
Water Tower on the banks of the calm Drava river, Maribor 9am–5pm daily. & -
424 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Arriving by Air are not served by train; however, frequent departures, although
The easiest way to reach they are well connected by bus. smaller destinations may only
Slovenia is to fly. The Slovene Within Slovenia, trains fall into have one or two buses a day.
national airline, Adria Airways, three categories. InterCity Slovenia Timetable information regarding
has direct scheduled flights (ICS) operate on the Ljubljana- bus services is available on
from London’s Gatwick Airport Maribor-Ljubljana route. In the the bus station’s website.
to Ljubljana Airport at Brnik, summer and on Saturdays, Buses are comfortable
situated 26 km (16 miles) north Sundays and public holidays, and ticket prices reasonable.
of the capital. In addition, ICS trains also operate along the International services also run
budget airline easyJet flies Maribor-Ljubljana-Koper route daily to Belgrade and Sarajevo.
several times a week from and back. EuroCity (EC) operate
London’s Stansted airport to along major international routes
Ljubljana. There are no direct and connect important economic Travelling by Car
flights from the US and Canada and tourist hubs in Slovenia Slovenia’s well-surfaced
to Slovenia, but there are several and Europe. EuroNight (EN) roads are uncrowded and well
one-stop options involving a are international night trains, signposted. In order to drive
change of flight in Amsterdam, which include sleepers and here each vehicle must display
Frankfurt or London. A regular couchettes. Regional (RG) and a windscreen sticker or vinjeta
bus ser vice runs daily from the other passenger (potniški) trains (vignette), which can be bought
Brnik airport to Ljubljana bus (LV) connect Slovenian towns from petrol stations and
station until around 8pm. A on shorter and longer routes. newspaper kiosks. A weekly
privately operated minibus These are intended primarily vignette for a car costs €15.
shuttle ser vice is also available, for daily journeys to and from Ljubljana’s central location
which runs till slightly later. work or school. means that a drive from
Ljubljana is a good starting here to anywhere else in the
point for onward travel to country can be completed in
Rail Travel Central Europe, with daily trains two hours or less. Two-lane
The Slovene railways run a smooth from the Ljubljana Train highways run southwest
service. Ljubljana stands at the Station to Vienna, Budapest, from Ljubljana to the Adriatic
centre of the rail network, offering Zagreb and Belgrade. coast, and east to Maribor.
fast and punctual services to Note that mountain
destinations such as Maribor, roads, especially the Predel
Postojna, Koper, Ptuj and Bled. Travelling by Bus pass and the Vršič pass in the
Mountainous areas such as the The Ljubljana Bus Station serves Triglav National Park, may be
Triglav National Park (see pp418– most destinations in Slovenia. closed in winter due to harsh
21) and the Soča valley (see p413) Major towns and cities have weather conditions.
DIRECTORY
Documentation Embassies Emergency Easyjet
Numbers ∑ easyjet.com
Slovene National Australia
Železna cesta 14. Ambulance Ljubljana Airport
Tourist Office
Tel 112. Brnik.
∑ slovenia.info Ljubljana.
Tel (04) 206 1981.
Tel (01) 234 8675. Fire ∑ lju-airport.si
Visitor ∑ dfat.gov.au Tel 112.
Information Canada Rail Travel
Police
Free telephone Linhartova cesta Tel 113. Ljubljana Train
49a, Ljubljana. Station
information line
Tel (01) 252 4444. Facilities for Trg Osvobodilne fronte 4.
Tel 080 1900. the Disabled
United Kingdom Tel (01) 291 3391.
Ljubljana Tourist ∑ slo-zeleznice.si
Trg Republike 3, Paraplegics
Information Centre Association of Slovenia
Ljubljana.
Adamič-Lundrovo Travelling by Bus
Tel (01) 200 3910. Štihova 14, Ljubljana.
nabrežje 2, Ljubljana. ∑ ukinslovenia.fco. Tel (01) 432 7138. Ljubljana Bus Station
Tel (01) 306 1215. gov.uk ∑ zveza-paraplegikov.si Trg Osvobodilne
∑ visitljubljana.com fronte, Ljubljana.
United States Arriving by Air Tel 1991.
Slovene Tourist Prešernova 31, ∑ ap-ljubljana.si
Information Centre Ljubljana. Adria Airways
Krekov trg 10, Ljubljana. Tel (01) 200 5500. Tel 080 1300 (Slovenia),
Tel (01) 306 4575. ∑ slovenia.usembassy. (01) 369 1010 (call UK)
∑ slovenia.info gov ∑ adria.si
426 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
DIRECTORY
Crafts and Food and Drink Slovene Filharmonic Ljubljana Summer
Souvenirs Kongresni trg 10, Festival
Čokoladnica Cukrček Ljubljana. Ljubljana.
Etnogalerija Skrina Mestni trg 11, Ljubljana. Tel (01) 241 6026.
Tel (01) 421 0453. Tel (01) 241 0800.
Breg 8, Ljubljana. ∑ ljubljanafestival.si
∑ cukrcek.si ∑ filharmonija.si
Tel (01) 425 5161.
∑ skrina.si Kraševka Slovene National Rafting
Ciril Metodov trg 10, Theatre, Opera and
Galerija Idrijske Ljubljana. Bled Rafting
Ballet
Čipke Tel (01) 232 1445. Cesta svobode 4, Bled.
Župančičeva 1, Ljubljana.
Mestni trg 17, Ljubljana. ∑ krasevka.si Tel (040) 955 955.
Tel (01) 241 5900.
Tel (01) 425 0051. ∑ bled-rafting.si
Pubs and Bars ∑ opera.si
∑ idrija-lace.com
Maya
Galerija Rogaška Metelkova Mesto Festivals Padlih borcev 1, Tolmin.
Mestni trg 22, Ljubljana. Metelkova ulica, Ljubljana. Tel (051) 312 972.
Tel (01) 241 2701. ∑ metelkovamesto.org Druga Godba ∑ maya.si
∑ steklarna-rogaska.si Ljubljana.
Classical Music Tel (01) 241 7299. Soča Rafting
Mladinska Knjiga ∑ drugagodba.si Trg Golobarskih žrtev 14,
Konzorcij Cankarjev Dom Bovec. Tel (05) 389 6200.
Slovenska cesta 29, Prešernova cesta Lent Festival ∑ socarafting.si
Ljubljana. 10, Ljubljana. Maribor.
Tel (01) 241 0657. Tel (01) 241 7100. Tel (02) 229 4000.
∑ mladinska.com ∑ cd-cc.si ∑ festival-lent.si
428 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
with spacious and well-equipped Price Guide
Ljubljana rooms, is conveniently located Prices are based on one night’s stay in
mid-way between the Old Town high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
and the train and bus stations.
DK Choice € under €75
Celica € Maček €€ €€ €75 to €150
€€€ over €150
Hostel B&B Map E3
Metelkova 8, 1000 Krojaška 5, 1000
Tel (01) 230 9700 Tel (041) 827 815 KRANJSKA GORA: Kotnik €€
∑ hostelcelica.com ∑ sobe-macek.si Resort
Making full creative use of the On the banks of the river Borovška cesta 75, 4280
former Yugoslav military police and right above the popular Tel (04) 588 1564
station, ‘The Cell’ is an interior- Maček café-bar, this friendly and ∑ hotel-kotnik.si
design classic – each room informal B&B has bright and Rooms at this intimate and
decorated by a different team cheerfully coloured en suites friendly family-run hotel come
of international artists. It offers with laminated wooden flooring. with Internet connection,
bunk-bed dorms as well as minibar and a hairdryer too.
double rooms. Basic breakfast is Antiq Hotel €€€
included. Book well in advance. Boutique Map E4 LAKE BOHINJ: Hotel Jezero €€
Gornji trg 3, 1000 Resort
Tel (01) 421 3560 Ribčev Laz 51, 4265
Vila Veselova € ∑ antiqhotel.eu Tel (04) 572 9100
Hostel Map D3 Boutique hotel with a lovely ∑ hotel-jezero.si
Veselova 14, 1000 location in the heart of the Old Lakeside location, pool and
Tel (059) 926 721 Town, with rooms ranging from modern rooms that have
∑ v-v.si snug 'economy' doubles with balconies. Jezero is also
In a grand-looking 19th-century shared facilities to regular rooms well-managed.
villa at the edge of Tivoli Park this with en suite bathrooms.
simple but friendly hostel-cum- MARIBOR: Orel €€
pension offers self-contained 4-, Grand Hotel Union €€€ Business
6- and 8-bed dorms. Historic Map E2 Volkmerjev prehod 7, 2000
Miklošičeva 1, 1000 Tel (02) 250 6700
Allegro €€ Tel (01) 308 1270 ∑ hotel-orel.si
Historic Map E4 ∑ union-hotels.eu Located in the heart of Maribor's
Gornji trg 6, 1000 Handsome Art Nouveau building pedestrian zone, this combined
Tel (059) 119 620 near the Tromostovje bridge. hotel and hostel offers three-star
∑ allegrohotel.si ‘Executive’ rooms in the main hotel rooms as well as simply
Rooms with reproduction building are spacious and stylish; decorated doubles and triples.
furniture and loud fabrics but while 'business' rooms in the
crisp modern bathrooms mark modern annexe are more contem- PIRAN: Max €
out this intimate hotel set in a porary in style. There are several B&B
historic house in the Old Town. on-site cafés and restaurants. Ulica IX. Korpusa 26, 6330
Tel (05) 673 3436
City Hotel €€ Best Western Premier ∑ maxpiran.com
Business Map E2 Hotel Slon €€€ On a stepped street near Piran's
Dalmatinova 15, 1000 Luxury Map E2 cathedral, Max offers cosy en
Tel (01) 239 0000 Slovenska cesta 34, 1000 suites, squeezed into a tall thin
∑ cityhotel.si Tel (01) 470 1100 house that has a steep and
This popular mid-range hotel ∑ hotelslon.com narrow staircase.
Right on the main shopping street,
minutes away from the Old Town, PORTOROŽ: Riviera €€€
Slon offers fully-equipped modern Luxury
rooms. Slon meaning ‘Elephant’ Obala 33, 6320
refers to a Habsburg emperor Tel (05) 692 6020
who once stayed at an inn at this ∑ lifeclass.net
site with an elephant. Among the best-equipped of the
many four-star hotels grouped
along the Portorož seafront,
Riviera offers spacious bedrooms
Rest of Slovenia as well as on-site spa facilities.
CROATIA
Situated between Eastern and Western Europe, Croatia has long served
both as a land of passage and a point of contact between different worlds
and cultures. Though small, it has great ethnic, historical and architectural
diversity as well as a variety of landscapes. The beautiful Adriatic coast is an
outstanding attraction and the largely unspoilt interior has great rural charm.
Croatia forms a meeting point between Slav tribes, including the Croats, settled
the Mediterranean, Central Europe in South Eastern Europe from the early
and the Balkans. The north of the 6th century onwards. Croats on the
country has a Viennese look; while to Adriatic coast accepted the rule of
the west, the Adriatic coast boasts a Byzantium, which had inher ited Roman
great deal of Italian-style architec ture. possessions in Eastern Europe. Croats
The 1991–5 war which followed the living inland carved out an independent
break-up of Yugoslavia had a disastrous territory of their own. In the 9th century,
effect on Croatia’s economy but the invading Hungarians were pushed back
country has regained its reputation by Croatian rulers strengthening their
as a popular holiday destination. hold over northern and eastern Croatia.
Over the next 200 years, the Croats
History extended their territories towards
Croatia has been home to human the Adriatic, allowing a Christian Slav
civilization since the Neolithic era. Illyrian culture to flourish.
tribal states established themselves The last Croatian king died childless in
throughout the region dur ing the 1st 1091, and the crown was claimed by the
millennium BC. They were, however, Hungarians. Hungarian monarchs ruled
no match for the Romans, who over Croatia until 1526, when their armies
conquered present-day Croatia in were destroyed by the Ottoman Turks.
the 2nd century BC. Croatia turned to the Habsburg Empire
Ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre in Pula, dating from the 3rd century AD
A breathtaking view of Plitvice Lakes National Park
432 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Exploring Croatia
Croatia is a fascinating country made up of a wide variety
of landscapes. Its capital, Zagreb, is a delight, with plenty of
galleries and museums. The country’s coast and islands are
spectacular, with several national parks to preserve their
natural charm. The rest of Croatia features rolling fields and
hills covered with vineyards. The country also benefits from
an efficient transport system with excellent connections
between the mainland and the islands.
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway The Korzo, an avenue lined with
International border SLOVENIA 19th-century buildings, Rijeka
Čakovec
Ferry route Varaždin
Koprivnica
A4
HUNGARY
ZAGREB
Bjelovar Virovitica
Samobor
Drav a
Osijek
Euphrasian SERBIA
A3
Karlovac Daruvar
Basilica Sisak Našice
Rijeka Kutina
Glina Đakovo Vukovar
A6 Slavonski
Poreč
6 Brod Vinkovci
A1
Rovinj
Venice Krk Senj
Cres A3
Pula
Rab
52
Plitvice Lakes BOSNIA AND
Otočac
National Park HERZEGOVINA
Veli Lošinj Gospic´
Venice 50
Lošinj Pag
Paklenica National Park
Zadar
Knin 0 km 50
Kornati
National Park Drniš 0 miles 50
Sinj
Šibenik A1
Salona
Ancona Adriatic Trogir
Split
Sea
Šolta Brač Makarska
Ploče
Vis Hvar
Pescara Korčula Elaphite
Isles
Lastovo
Dubrovnik
Mljet
Bari Cavtat
Sights at a Glance
1 Dubrovnik pp434–40 e Zadar
2 Elaphite Isles r Paklenica National Park
3 Cavtat t Plitvice Lakes National Park
4 Mljet pp442–3 pp460–61
5 Korčula pp444–5 y Rab
6 Split pp446–9 u Rijeka
7 Salona pp450–51 i Pula
8 Brač o Rovinj
9 Vis p Euphrasian Basilica pp464–5
0 Hvar pp454–5 a Zagreb pp466–73
Pedestrianized street in Dubrovnik’s q Trogir pp456–7 s Varaždin pp474–5
Old Town w Kornati National Park d Osijek pp476–7
1 Dubrovnik
Located on the Adriatic coast, the city of Dubrovnik is renowned
for the beauty of its monuments and its magnificent walls. It
was founded by refugees from Roman Epidaurum, now Cavtat
(see p441), in the 7th century. Dubrovnik (or island of Ragusa
as it was called) came under Byzantine, Venetian and then
Hungarian suzerainty, although by the late 14th century, it
was a de facto self-governing city-state. In the 15th and 16th
centuries, its fleet exceeded 500 ships. Artistically it flourished,
and its wealth increased due to its privileged access to the
trade routes of the Ottoman Empire. Much of the Old Town
centre dates from the rebuilding that took place after the
earthquake of 1667. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik
has been restored to its former glory after the seige in the
1990s by Serb and Montenegrin forces.
The Big Fountain of Onofrio, dating from
1438–44
A superb view from the impressive city walls P Big Fountain of Onofrio
In the square which opens
P Walls towers and the Fort of St John out immediately beyond the
Access to the walls near the Franciscan defend the section facing the Pile Gate is the Big Fountain
Monastery in Poljana Paška Miličevića, Adriatic Sea and the Old Port. of Onofrio (Velika Onofrijeva
the large square behind Pile Gate, Completing the defences to the fontana), one of the best-known
and near the Dominican Monastery. east and west are two fortresses, monuments in the city. It was
n (020) 324 641. Open Jun & Jul: the Revelin and the Lovrijenac. built between 1438 and 1444
8am–7:30pm; Apr, May, Aug & Sep: by the Neapolitan architect,
8am–6:30pm; Oct: 8am–5:30pm; P Pile Gate Onofrio della Cava, who was
Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm. &
The main entrance to the old responsible for designing the
A symbol of Dubrovnik, the walls fortified centre is through the city’s water supply system. He
(Gradske zidine) offer splendid decided to draw water from
views from their parapets. They the Dubrovačka river for this
were built in the 10th century, purpose. The fountain once
with modifications completed in had two storeys, but the upper
the 13th century, and then rein- level was destroyed in the
forced over the years by architects earthquake of 1667, which
such as Michelozzo Michelozzi killed thousands of people and
(1396–1472), Juraj Dalmatinac destroyed countless buildings.
(c. 1400–73) and Antonio Tucked between the city walls
Ferramolino (c. 1490–1550). and the Franciscan Monastery,
The walls and ramparts are opposite the fountain, is the
1,940 m (6,363 ft) long and reach Church of St Saviour (sv
a height of 25 m (82 ft) in some Spas), built after an earlier
parts. Those facing inland are up earthquake of 1520. Its façade
to 6 m (20 ft) wide and strength- is an example of Venetian-
ened by an outer wall with ten Dalmatian Renaissance
semi-circular bastions. Other Pile Gate, leading to the Old Town architecture.
For hotels and restaurants see p482 and p483
DUBROVNIK 435
Ferry Terminal
IS P O
E VA
2 km (1 mile) PE Revelin
OVIĆ A
E VA
Franciscan LIN
NSK
O T IĆ
Fort
NCI
Lovrijenac Monastery E
Dominican SU PI LA
A
UNI
R IJ E
FR AN A
PA L M
IĆ E V
Monastery A
IĆ E V
EŠK
AN T
LO V
Ploče Gate
N IK
A
A
KUN
Pile Gate
IOSK
Church of
N A LJ
AČK
KOV
MI
PRIJE
St Saviour KO
DO
ŽUD
KOV
PETI
BOŠ
Rosary OG
ET
VA
DUN
of Onofrio
D
IZ M
A
TA L
EDU
OK
OD Sponza North
ŠIR
ZA
GE
M House SQUARE OF
THE LOGGIA Old
KA
Bokar Fort
GA
Church of Port
US
A
Rupe
IĆ
BO
NA
Orthodox St Blaise
IPA
Museum
EV
KA
MI
PRED DVOROM
Church
OS
OD
AR
DO
RU South
M.
.J
ŽID
PA GUNDULI- Rector’s
NE
SV
Pier
OD
ĆEVA
A
BO
NJI
Palace
ARIC
POLJANA
RA
Fort of
N.
Walls POLJANA
LUĆ
IJE
AR .
ŠT
M SV
St John
D.
RO MARINA A D A M J AN A
SM
AJE Cathedral DRŽIĆA KN E Z J U D E
O ROV T IJ ERN E
D
KA
A and Treasury O D P US
ŠT
ANDRI
EL Jesuit
BRAĆE A
A
P OB I J A N A
Church a
OD POLJANA
Se
JIĆ
MA R. BOŠKOVIĆA
RG
AR
IT E DM
IR A
t ic
ISP O
r ia
0 metres 150
Ad
0 yards 150
. Cathedral Treasury
The provenance of the
objects here demonstrates
Dubrovnik’s trading
relations with the GUNDULIĆE VA
RIC A
principal cities of LUĆ A POL JANA
the Mediterranean.
With artifacts from the
Byzantine, Middle Eastern,
Apulian and Venetian schools, OM
OR
it features gold and enamel DV
objects as well as paintings ED
PR
by great artists.
POLJANA
MARINA
DRŽIĆA
KN
E
Z
A
Key
D
A
Suggested route
M
JA
NA
JU
DE
Sponza Palace
Built in the 16th century,
this palace features
Renaissance arches and
Venetian Gothic windows.
A Latin inscription in the
courtyard refers to the
public scales that once
stood here. Today, it houses
the State Archives.
Franciscan Monastery
The outer . Dominican Monastery
and the Big Fountain
city walls Since its foundation in 1315, the
of Onofrio
monastery has played a leading
role in the cultural activities of
the city. Important sculptors
PR
ST
in its construction.
RA
KO
DU
N
A
SK
AR
AT 0 metres 50
ZL
0 yards 50
Old Port
S
V
E
T
O
G A
DOMINIK
Ploče Gate
Next to the Dominican Monastery is
the Ploče Gate, which leads to the
suburb of Ploče. From there goods
arrived from, and were sent to, every
port in the Mediterranean.
Fort of St John
This imposing fortress was one of many bulwarks built to make
the city impregnable. It now houses an interesting museum
devoted to the city’s maritime past.
438 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
4 Mljet
The island of Mljet, called Melita by the Romans and
Meleda by the Venetians, covers an area of 98 sq km (37 sq
miles). It is mountainous, with two limestone depressions
in which there are two saltwater lakes linked by a channel.
In Roman times, Mljet was a holiday resort for the wealthy
of Salona (see pp450–51), who built villas here. In 1151,
Duke Desa, Grand Prefect of Zahumlje, in Herzegovina,
gave the island to the Benedictines of Pulsano in Gargano,
Italy, who founded a monastery here. Two centuries later,
Stjepan, Governor of Bosnia, gave it to Dubrovnik (see
pp434–40). In 1960, the western end, which covers an area Roman Palatium
of 31 sq km (12 sq miles) and is entirely forested, was Near Polače lie the ruins of a
declared a national park. Roman settlement named Palatium.
It includes the remains of a large villa
and an early Christian basilica.
Pomena Mijet
Goveđari Polače National Kozarica
Park
Soline
Blato
Monastery of St Mary
In the centre of Veliko jezero is a small island
with a 12th-century Benedictine monastery,
remodelled in the 1500s. It features colourful
altarpieces carved from local stone.
Veliko jezero
Covering about 145 ha (358 acres) Veliko jezero (Big
Lake) reaches a depth of 46 m (150 ft). A channel links
the lake to the sea and another links it to a smaller lake,
Malo jezero.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
70 km (44 miles) W of Dubrovnik.
* 1,300. n Goveđari,
Pristanište 2, (020) 744 041. &
8 Note: The park can be
visited on foot or by bicycle
following the trails. Boats must
be authorized – call information
office for details. ∑ np-mljet.hr
Transport
g from Dubrovnik.
Marine Life
Dozens of species of fish, including grouper, inhabit
the underwater ravines and caves along the coast.
The endangered monk seal, protected in these
waters, is highly valued.
Uninhabited Islands
Nature is left undisturbed
on these islands, with
woods of pine, Holm oak
and oak stretching down
to the rocky shore.
Sobra
Prožura
• Okuklje
Babino Polje
Korita
Maranovići
Key
Major road
Minor road
Park boundary
KEY
Proi zd Prigradica
Hvar Vela Luka
41 km (25 miles)
Key
Major road Blato
Potirna
Minor road
Ferry route Prižba Brna
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
140 km (88 miles) NW of
Dubrovnik. * 17,000. n Obala
dr. Tuđmana 4, (020) 715 701/867.
∑ visitkorcula.eu. _ Moreška
(summer). Lumbarda: n (020)
712 005. ∑ tz-lumbarda.hr
Blato: n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4,
(020) 851 850. _ St Vincenza’s
Day (28 Apr). ∑ tzo-blato.hr
Vela Luka: n Obala 3 br. 19,
(020) 813 619. ∑ tzvelaluka.hr
Transport
g from Orebić, Split. @ 20260
Korčula. g from Split, Hvar.
The beautiful rocky coastline of Korčula
Byzantine icons from the 13th Archaeological Museum of and that of St Jerome date
to the 15th centuries. Outside Zagreb (see p473). Today, the from the 14th century. Every
the walls are the Church and village is the only centre of April, the central square plays
Monastery of St Nicholas (Sv. production for Grk, a liqueur- host to St Vincenza’s Day, which
Nikola), from the 15th century, like white wine made from is celebrated with Kumpanjija
with paintings by Italian artists. grapes of the same name. The dance and drum music.
nearby beaches are famous
E Abbey Treasury for their golden sands. Vela Luka
Trg sv Marka. n (020) 711 049. Situated about 45 km (28 miles)
Open call for information. & Blato west of Korčula town is Vela
E Town Museum The central square of the Luka, known as “the oldest and
Trg sv Marka. Tel (020) 711 420. village of Blato, towards the the newest town”, because it
Open Jul–Sep: 9am–9pm Mon–Sat; western end of the island, has was built at the beginning of the
Apr–Jun: 10am–2pm Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: an 18th-century Baroque loggia, 19th century on the Neolithic
10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Sun: by appt. the Arneri Castle, where the site of Vela Spilja. One of the
E Icon Gallery Civic Museum documents the largest towns on the island, it
Trg Svih Svetih. n (020) 711 306, local history of the town and has a number of industries that
(091) 593 1281. Open summer: displays archaeological finds coexist with attractive bays and
10am–2pm & 5–8pm Mon–Sat; from the surrounding area. islands. The surrounding hills
Winter & Sun: by appt. All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), of shelter the town from the winds
medieval origin, was enlarged from the north and south. Vela
Lumbarda and rebuilt in the 17th century. Luka is also the main port on the
Thought to have been founded The church has an altarpiece of island and there are regular ferry
by Greeks, the village of Lumbarda the Virgin with Child and Saints services to Split (see pp446–9).
lies 6 km (4 miles) southeast of (1540) on the main altar by
Korčula town. In the 16th century, Girolamo di Santacroce and, in
it became a holiday resort for the chapel, the relics of the local
the nobles of Korčula. Some focus of veneration, the martyr
inscriptions from the Greek St Vincenza. The cemetery
period are now kept in the church of the Holy Cross
Dubrovnik
Split 137 km 48 km (30 miles)
Račišće (85 miles)
Orebić
7 km (4 miles)
K O R Č U L A Korčula
Pupnat
Žrnovo
Lumbarda
Zavalatica
0 km 5
Town of Korčula, on a peninsula on the
0 miles 5
northeast coast of the island
For keys to symbols see back flap
446 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
E Museum of Croatian
Archaeological Monuments
Stjepana Gunjace bb. Tel (021) 323
901. Open Jul–Aug: 9am–1pm &
5–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat; Sep–
View of the port and the seafront in Split Jun: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm
Sat. & ∑ mhas-split.hr
P Palace of Diocletian is inscribed with verses by Set up in 1975, this museum
See pp448–9. another famous Croatian (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških
poet, Tin Ujević. spomenika) houses finds from
P Braće Radić Square the area around Split dating
This medieval square (Trg braće P People’s Square from the early Middle Ages.
Radić) is on the southwest corner The busy People’s Square The collection also includes
of the Palace of Diocletian. The (Narodni trg/Pjaca) was Split’s the works of early Croat
tall Hrvoje’s Tower (Hrvojeva centre of business and admin- sculptors, from AD 800. The
kula) is the only evidence of the istration during the 15th century, stone fragments, salvaged from
imposing castle built here by the castles and churches, consist
Venetians in the second half of mainly of tombs, capitals, altar
the 15th century to strengthen fronts, ciboria and windows.
the city’s sea-facing defences. Highlights include Prince Višeslav’s
Built on an octagonal groundplan, 9th-century hexagonal baptis-
it stands on the southern side mal font and the striking
of the square. 10th-century sarcophagus of
On the northern side of the Queen Jelena discovered in
square is the Baroque Milesi Solin, near the ancient Roman
Palace, from the 17th century, city of Salona (see pp450–51).
and at its centre is a striking
bronze statue dedicated to E Meštrović Gallery
Marko Marulić (1450–1524), Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46.
the writer and scholar who Tel (021) 340 800. Open May–Sep:
composed the first epic poem 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
in the Croatian language. His The 15th-century Hrvoje’s Tower on Braće 9am–4pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm
statue, by sculptor Ivan Meštrović, Radić Square Sun. &
GR
EB
NODI
A
Č
K
KRA
A
LJA
VA
NIG TOM
ERO ISLA
D O M A L D O VA
VA VA Strossmayerov
TO
K R U Ž I Ć E VA Park
ON
Golden
ĆA
A
KA
RM
OV KRA Gate
ČI
EN J
NŠ
IKE
D SV. M AR Town
LA
A
LA
MA
IJE
SA
OV
M Hall
PU RG
OBROV
N
BL
Fish
JE
BO
BA
AN
Market PEOPLE’S DO
T
C IJ
NA
SQUARE M IN CARRARINA
IS O
KLE
VA POLJANA
RE
SKA
BA
ZADAR
D IO
PA P
A
Church of A of Split
L IĆ
JEV
Palace of E VA
VA
St Francis
OB
D
Diocletian
IĆ E
RI
VO
Ć
A
RUL
Milesi
YLE
PO
HR
Palace KR LJAN
MA
IS T
Baptistry A A
BRAĆE RADIĆ J E L L J IC E
EN
PER
Food
Bronze Market
Gate
Harbour
Ferry Terminal
0 metres 100 400 m (440 yards)
Railway and Bus
Stations
0 yards 100 200 m (220 yards)
. Temple of Jupiter
Consecrated in the 6th century, the
Temple of Jupiter had an atrium with six
columns, while the main building had a
coffered vault resting on a crypt. In the
early Middle Ages, it was turned into
the Baptistry of St John.
KEY
1 Bronze Gate
2 The Temples of Venus and
Cybele were circular outside and
had a hexagonal ground plan inside.
A colonnaded corridor ran around
the outside.
3 Temple of Cybele
4 The Cardo was the main street
of the complex.
5 The Decumanus, a transverse . Peristyle
path, divided the complex into Near the crossroads where the Cardo and Decumanus
two halves. intersected, the peristyle gave access to the sacred
6 The Silver or Eastern Gate was a area of the palace. On one side were the temples of
simpler version of the Golden Gate. Venus and Cybele and, further back, that of Jupiter,
now the Baptistry of St John.
For hotels and restaurants see p482 and p483
C R O AT I A 449
Golden Gate
The main entrance to the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
palace, the Golden Gate,
Practical Information
facing Salona (see pp450–51),
Cathedral of St Domnius:
was the most imposing of
Open Jun–Aug: 8am–sunset;
the gates, with twin towers
Sep–May: 9am–noon &
and numerous decorations.
4:30–7:30pm daily. &
Temple of Jupiter: Open summer
only (8am–8pm). &
Transport
@ Palace Basement.
Diocletian’s Emblem
After reorganizing the empire,
Emperor Diocletian sought the
spiritual unification of its citizens.
The state religion, personified
by the emperor, grew steadily
in importance and temples
were constructed bearing
his image.
Reconstruction of
Diocletian’s Palace
The spectacular palace,
shown here in its original form,
was laid out in the same way as a
Roman military camp. It was 215-m
(705-ft) long and 180-m (590-ft) wide
and was enclosed by very thick walls, at
times 28-m (92-ft) high. The four-sided
stronghold was reinforced with towers on the
north, east and west sides. There is a gate on
each side, connected by two roads
corresponding to the Roman
Cardo and Decumanus.
. Cathedral of St Domnius
Originally Emperor Diocletian’s mausoleum, the
cathedral was consecrated in the 7th century
when the sarcophagus containing the emperor’s
body was removed. The superb interior features
Roman columns and fine Romanesque carvings.
450 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
7 Salona
The ancient town of Salona, 5 km (3 miles) from Split, is
famous for its Roman ruins, scattered among meadows, olive
groves and vineyards. The name Salona derives from the salt
works in the area, the Latin for salt being sal. Originally an
Illyrian settlement, it later came under Greek control, but only
became an important centre when the Romans built a town
next to the Greek city. Under the rule of Augustus, it became
a Roman colony called Martia Julia Salonae, and in due
course was made capital of the Dalmatian province. In the 1st
century AD, the Romans built theatres, temples, town walls,
towers and an amphitheatre, and Salona became the richest
and most populous town in the mid-Adriatic. In 614, it was
destroyed by the Avars and Slavs; the buildings were stripped
and the stone used for new structures. Main road leading to Salona
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Modern
town
8 Brač
175 km (109 miles) NW of Dubrovnik.
* 14,000. k @ g to Supetar from
Split. Supetar: n Porat 1, (021) 630
551. ∑ supetar.hr Bol: n Porat
bolskih pomoraca bb, (021) 635 638.
∑ bol.hr
Split
Split
18 km (11 miles)
ŠOLTA 17 km (11 miles) Supetar
Nerežišća
Selca
Milna
BRAČ Sumartin
Makarska
Key 14 km (9 miles)
Bol
Major road
Minor road 0 km 10
Split
58 km (36 miles)
Stončica
Vis
Komiža VIS
Podstražje
0 Hvar
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of
scented lavender make this island one of the gems of the
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story
begins in the 4th century BC when Greeks from Paros founded
Pharos and Dimos, present-day towns of Stari Grad and Hvar.
Traces have been left by the Romans, the Byzantines, the
Croatian sovereigns and the Venetians, who ruled from 1278
until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital was Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral of
moved from Pharos to Hvar. In 1886, under Austria-Hungary, St Stephen
the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the town as a Virgin and Saints (1627) by
health resort. Crucially for Croatian literature, Hvar was the Palma il Giovane (1544–1628),
native island of Renaissance poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Pietà (c. 1520) by Juan Boschetus,
Hektorović, both of whom wrote lyrically about the people Virgin with Saints (1692) by
and landscapes of the Adriatic. Domenico Uberti and a fine
16th-century wooden choir.
The Clock Tower, the civic
Loggia below and Hektorović
Palace (Hektorovićeva palača),
recognizable by the beautiful
Venetian Gothic mullioned
window, all date from the
15th century.
On the south side of the
square is the Arsenal, which
dates from the late 16th
century. A theatre was built on
the first floor in 1612. This was
the first “public theatre” in the
A peaceful bay on the island of Hvar Balkans; people of all classes
could come and watch perfor-
Hvar Town Europe. The town was also the mances here, regardless of
This beautiful town is one of the birthplace of the Renaissance their social standing.
most visited on the eastern coast poet Hanibal Lucić (c. 1485–1553) Outside the walls of the
of the Adriatic Sea, thanks to the and the playwright Martin Old Town are the Franciscan
treasures within its 13th-century Benetović (c. 1550–1607). Monastery (Franjevački
walls. During Venetian rule, local The town’s most important samostan), dating from 1461,
nobles and governors decided buildings stand on three sides and the Church of Our Lady of
to make the town a safe harbour of the main square, the fourth Charity (Gospa od Milosti), with
for the fleets going to, or return- side is open to the sea. The a relief on the façade by Nikola
ing from, the Orient. They also Renaissance Cathedral of St Firentinac. Inside are St Francis
transferred the bishopric and Stephen (Katedrala sv Stjepana) receiving the Stigmata and St
built monasteries there. has a trefoil pediment and a Diego by Palma il Giovane, three
Hvar has a long tradition of art 17th-century bell tower standing polyptychs by Francesco da
and culture. It is home to one of to one side. The interior contains Santacroce, Christ on the Cross
the first theatres ever built in many works of art including by Leandro da Bassano, and six
Zavala
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Šćedro
For hotels and restaurants see p482 and p483
C R O AT I A 455
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
165 km (103 miles) NW
of Dubrovnik. * 11,500.
Hvar: n Trg svetog Stjepana bb,
(021) 741 059. ∑ tzhvar.hr
Stari Grad: n Obala dr F.
Tudmana 1, (021) 765 763
∑ stari-grad-faros.hr.
Lavender growing wild on the island of Hvar
Sućuraj: n (021) 717 288.
∑ tz-sucuraj.hr
scenes inspired by the Passion Hektorović (1487–1572),
of Christ by Martin Benetović. which houses an Ethnographic Transport
There are also many works Collection and has a seawater Hvar: g from Split. Stari Grad:
g from Split; Jadrolinija.
of art in the rooms facing fishpond. Hektorović, a poet, built
the cloister. The painter of the the fort in around 1520. He was Sućuraj: g from Drvenik.
Last Supper in the refectory is the author of the poem “Fishing
unknown. The 16th-century and Fishermen’s Conversation”
Španjola fort and early 19th (Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje) in 16th-century Church of St Mary
century Napoleon fort both which he describes a fishing trip (Sv Marija), fortified in 1575 to
offer splendid views of the town. around the islands of Hvar, Brač provide shelter for villagers in the
(see p452) and Šolta. event of a siege. The Baroque
The Dominican Monastery Church of St Lawrence (Sv Lovro)
(Dominikanski samostan) was has a polyptych (c. 1570) on the
founded in 1482. It was rebuilt main altar by Paolo Veronese and
and fortified after destruction a Virgin of the Rosary by Leandro
by the Turks and has a rich library da Bassano.
and a collection of paintings. The
town also has an International Sućuraj
School of Painting and Sculpture. Lying in a sheltered bay at
The cloister of the Franciscan Monastery, the eastern tip of the island
outside Hvar R Dominican Monastery is the village of Sućuraj with
Tel (021) 765 442. Open Jun–Sep: the remains of a castle built
Stari Grad 10am–noon & 4–8pm; Oct–May: by the Venetians in around 1630.
This town was originally called by appt.
Pharos and was founded by the Environs
Greeks in the 4th century BC. To the west of the island are
Remains of the town can be seen the Pakleni Islands. Facing the
in Ciklopska ulica. Around Pod town of Hvar, these islands are
dolom are the ruins of a Roman uninhabited and mostly wooded.
villa with mosaic floors. Their name derives from the
Stari Grad lies at the end paklina (resin) that was once
of a long bay and the key sights extracted from the pines and
are situated around the main used to water-proof boats. During
square. Facing the square are the summer, boat trips to the
the 17th-century Church of Tvrdalj, Stari Grad islands depart from Hvar. The
St Stephen (Sv Stjepan) and nearest island, Jerolim, is given
the Baroque Biankini Palace Vrboska over to naturism.
(Palača Biankini), the home The road leading to this small The island of Šćedro, off the
of an archaeological collection. village is a marvellous sight in south coast of Hvar, is covered in
The heart of the town is June when the surrounding pines and maquis. Illyrian tombs
dominated by Tvrdalj, the fields are covered with lavender. and parts of a Roman villa have
fortified residence of Petar Vrboska is home to the been found here.
Drvenik
7 km
Sućuraj (4 miles) Key
Major road
Bogomolje
Minor road
Ferry route
6 Town Hall
7 Loggia and Clock Tower
8 Church of St John the Baptist BLA
ŽA
JUR
JEV
9 Church of St Nicholas Land Gate A
T
RO
RA
Civic Museum
NIN
St Mark’s Tower IK
A RADOVANOV
A
TRG
EN
UČ E VA
M IĆ Cathedral of
UB
UL
Š Čipiko
H St Lawrence
KI Palace
A TS TRG IVANA
H RV MATI J E G UP C A PAVLA II Town Hall
Stafileo
Palace Loggia and
A
SK
MO
J
SIN St John the Baptist
GU
GRADSKA UL
RN
S T IN
E I VA N A D UK N O VI ĆA
AR
SK
OB
AT
HR
R V
E H
AK
VA
SK
St Mark’s
RO
TIC
TS
Tower MA
A
A
KO
Walls
ŽOT
G
Church of
PR
IĆA
KA
OL
St Nicholas
AR S
KOV
JEČ
VU Church of
A
19
St Dominic
71
Ć A
NA BERISLAVI
Marmont’s OBALA BA
Kamerlengo
Gloriette Castle
RI SL AV IĆ A
BA NA BE
OB AL A
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Lučica
KO Vrulje
RN
AT KORNAT
I
NA
Mana
TIO
NA
L
Piškera PA J
RK Smokvica
Lavsa
Key
Kurba Vela
Trail
Park boundary
0 yards 500
Prošćansko
jezero
Okrugljak
STUBICA
Galovac
Velika
Poljana
Dense Forests
The forests alongside the waters are home to
some of the largest European species of animal,
including wolves, lynx, foxes, wild boars, bears,
roebucks, wild cats, otters and badgers.
For hotels and restaurants see p482 and p483
C R O AT I A 461
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
460 km (288 miles) NW
of Dubrovnik.
n (053) 751 015.
Open summer: 8am–sunset
daily; winter: 9am–sunset daily.
& 8 7 partly.
Flora ∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr
The park flora ranges from waterlilies on the lakes to forests of
gigantic trees. The rich undergrowth is also a source of food for Transport
@ from Zagreb.
the park’s wildlife.
Plitvice
Waterfalls
Signposted routes direct
Draga visitors to viewpoints to
Matijaševac watch the rushing water as
it cascades from the
lake above.
Jezero
Kozjak Zagreb
Gavanovac 160 km
(99 miles)
Entrance 1
Dubrovnik
460 km (288 miles)
Key
Major road View of the Korana River
Minor road
The lakes drain into the Korana river, one of Croatia’s cleanest
waterways. The long-winding river flows between steep cliffs
Trail amidst spectacular scenery, and is a popular place for kayak
Boat route and raft trips.
For keys to symbols see back flap
462 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
u Rijeka
620 km (388 miles) NW of Dubrovnik.
* 130,000. k £ from Zagreb.
@ from Pula, Zadar & Zagreb. g
Jadrolinija, Riva 16. n Korzo 14, (051)
335 882. _ Rijeka Carnival (Feb &
Mar), Rijeka’s Summer Nights Arts
Festival (Jun–Jul). ∑ visitrijeka.hr
p Euphrasian Basilica
Eufrazijeva bazilika
Located in the town of Poreč, this 6th-century church
is a Byzantine masterpiece decorated with mosaics
on a gold background. It was built for Bishop Euphrasius
between 539 and 553 by expanding the existing 4th-
century Oratory of St Maurus Martyr, patron saint of
Poreč. Although the building has undergone many
alterations over the centuries, some of the original floor
mosaics survive. In December 1997, the basilica was
added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Classical
concerts are held in the church from July to August.
. Ciborium
Dominating the presbytery
is a beautiful 13th-century
ciborium supported by four
marble columns. The canopy
is decorated with mosaics.
. Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. Christ and
the Apostles are depicted on the arch, while the Virgin
appears on the vault enthroned with the child and two
angels. Bishop Euphrasius himself is shown with a
model of the basilica.
KEY
Interior
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The entrance leads to
a large basilica with a
Practical Information
central nave and two side
710 km (444 miles) NE of Dubrovnik.
aisles. The 18 Greek marble
Tel (052) 431 635. n Eufrazijeva
columns have carved
ulica 22, (052) 429 030. Open Apr–
capitals featuring animals,
Jun & Sep–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–
some of Byzantine origin
Sat; Jul & Aug: 9am–9pm Mon–
and others Romanesque.
Sat; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm
All bear the monogram
Mon–Sat. &
of Euphrasius.
Transport
@ from Rovinj, Pula & Zagreb.
Baptistry
This octagonal building dates from
the 6th century. In the centre is a
baptismal font and there are also
fragments of mosaics. To the rear
is a 16th-century bell tower.
Atrium
The church atrium is
composed of a square
portico with two columns
on each side. Medieval
tombstones and archaeological
finds are displayed here.
466 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
a Zagreb
Croatia’s capital since 1991, Zagreb is the heart of the
political, economic and cultural life of the country. With a
population of almost 800,000, it is also Croatia’s largest city.
Zagreb is divided into two parts: the Old Town (Gornji grad
or Upper Town), which includes the two districts of Gradec
and Kaptol, and the modern area (Donji grad or Lower
Town). The Upper Town is home to the main centres of
religious, political and administrative power. The Lower Mary with Child, Church of
C
NA
Town developed after 1830 around a U-shaped series of St Mark
KA
parks and open spaces known as the “green horseshoe”,
TUŠ
and the major museums, including the Mimara Museum
and Gallery of Old Masters, are all located here, as well as
the Croatian National Theatre. Around Governor Jelačić
Square (Trg bana Jelačića), where the Upper and Lower STR
ELJ
AČ
KA
towns meet, there are plenty of lively cafés with
DEŽM ANOVA
summer terraces.
Sights at a Glance
1 Cathedral of the Assumption
of the Blessed Virgin Mary ILIC A
2 Archbishop’s Palace
3 Dolac Market
4 Stone Gate Key
A
5 City Museum O PA N SK
MEDULIĆEVA
Pedestrian street
8 Croatian Museum of Naïve Art
9 Lotrščak Tower Railway
0 Church of St Catherine
q Croatian National Theatre
P RI LA Z GJ UR
w Museum of Arts and Crafts E DE Ž EL I ĆA
TRG
e Mimara Museum
MARŠALA TITA
r Gallery of Old Masters
t Archaeological Museum
y Museum of Contemporary Art
KL AI ĆE VA
ROOSEVELTOV
Greater Zagreb TRG
Granešina TRG BRAĆE
MAŽURANIĆ
PE
RK
OV
Sesvete
ČEV
Maksimir
A
ZAGREB MARULIĆEV
TRG
KA
Zagreb
VS
SA
Jarun
Sa
va
Lake
Jarun
A1 Novi Zagreb A3 VODNIKOV A
Botinec
0 km 3 CR
30 Zagreb
NA
TK
OV
A
0 miles 3
Key
Area of the main map
M ED V E DG RAD SK A
NOVA VES
ILIRSKI
VA
TRG
NO
LOU Š I Ć E
GE
T M IK VA
RIB
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PU E ZV
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VK
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BR AZ
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GORNJI GRAD
0 metres 200
KAP
OPATIČKA
0 yards 200
RADIĆ EVA
T KA LČIĆ E VA
TOL
KA
SO
VI
KA
O P AT O V I N A
IČ
MARKOV
SN
TRG
KA ME NIT
ME
Š E VA
A
CIRILOMETODSKA
M AT O
KAPTOL
JEZUITSKI
TRG
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KATARIN LINSKA
B A K A Č E VA
TRG KRVAVI
MOST
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RAD
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MA DOLAC
OSS TA L I
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STR
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ICA
SPLAVN
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PO D Z I D O M
TOMIĆEVA
VL
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KA
C E S AR Č E V A
K U R E L Č E VA
ILI CA TRG
ILICA BANA JELAČIĆA
JU R IŠ IĆ
E VA
GUNDULIĆE VA
PRA ŠKA
PRERADOVIĆEV
TRG BOGOVIĆEVA
PE
MARIĆEV
GA JE VA
PROLAZ
TR
VARŠAVSKA
MIŠKECOV
IN
PROLAZ
JSK
TESLI NA
A
PR ER AD OV
A
OV
YK IĆEVA
S AR IĆ EV A
ĐORĐ
MA BE RI SL AV
IĆ EVA
ZRINJEVAC
DONJI GRAD V I Ć E VA
BOŠKO
I Ć E VA STROSSMAYEROV
K O VA Č
TRG MAT IČIN A
IĆEV A
D O V IĆ
K AT A N Č
The twin spires of Zagreb’s cathedral
GUN DUL IĆEVA
TRE NKO VA H A T Z OV A
ŽER JAV IĆEV A
PETRI NJSKA
SVAČIĆEV
TRG
GA JEV A
HA UL IK O
KU M IČ IĆ EV
Getting Around
TOMISLAVOV Walking is the best way to
VA
STARČEVIĆEV
TRG The central and suburban
BOTANIČKI VRT districts are well connected
GRG URO VA
Zagreb by trams and buses, which run
at regular intervals and have
night services as well. Taxis and
hire cars are also available.
Ban’s Palace
The building dates from the 17th century and
was built after the city became the seat of the Ban,
Governor of Croatia, in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the republic.
A
IC
L
U
A
K
IČ
N
S
E
M
A
IC
UL
VA
KA
ŠE
DS
6 . Meštrović Gallery
The great Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović lived in
this 18th-century building from 1922 to 1941. About
ten years before his death, he donated his home
and all the works of art in it to the state.
KA
A
OV
AČ
Parliament Building
EK
ET
ICA
in 1918.
UL
KA
IČ
MARKOV
TRG
AT
OP
KA
M
EN
IT
A
7 . Church of St Mark
The coloured tiles on the roof of this fine Gothic
IC KA
0 Church of St Catherine
Built on the site of an ancient
Key 0 metres 50
Dominican church, this is the city’s
Suggested route 0 yards 50 most fascinating Baroque building.
470 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
3 Dolac Market
Dolac. Map E2. Tel (01) 481 4959.
6 Meštrović Gallery
Atelje Meštrović
Mletačka 8. Map D2. Tel (01) 485 1123.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
Sat & Sun. &
9 Lotrščak Tower
Kula Lotrščak
Strossmayerovo šetalište. Map D2.
Tel (01) 485 1768. Open Apr–Oct:
9am–9pm Mon–Fri, 10am–9pm Sat
& Sun. &
w Museum of Arts carpets and Ming vases. The first until it was replaced by the
and Crafts floor concentrates on applied art Roman alphabet.
Muzej za umjetnost i obrt and religious sculpture, including
some fine medieval statues. On
Trg maršala Tita 10. Map C4. the top floor, a wide-ranging tArchaeological
Tel (01) 488 2111. Open 10am–7pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. & 8 =
collection of paintings takes in Museum
0 - ∑ muo.hr
Byzantine icons, a Rembrandt, Arheološki muzej
a Rubens, a Renoir and some
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.
This elegant 19th-century delightful still lifes by Manet. Map E3. Tel (01) 487 3101.
building contains the finest Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat (until 8pm
collection of applied art in Thu), 10am–1pm Sun. & 8 by appt.
the country, with an extensive r Gallery of = ∑ amz.hr
display of furniture throughout Old Masters
the ages. Many of the exhibits Galerija starih majstora The Neo-Classical Vraniczany-
are by graduates of the Zagreb Hafner Palace has housed this
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 11.
School of Applied Arts, which Map E4. Tel (01) 489 5117.
museum since 1945. It contains
has been turning out talented Open 10am–7pm Tue, 10am– 4pm artifacts from all over Croatia,
ceramicists, glass-makers Wed–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. ranging from prehistoric finds
and graphic designers since &8 to Greek vases and
its establishment in 1882. medieval Croatian
An outstanding collection In 1880, Bishop jewellery. One of the
of photography and poster Strossmayer of Ðakovo, most captivating
art is also on display. one of the proponents objects on display is the
of the pan-Slav move- Vučedol Dove, a three-
ment, had this building legged pouring vessel
constructed to house in the shape of a bird
the Yugoslav Academy which dates from the
of Arts and Sciences. Copper Age (c. 2500
Now called the BC). Discovered near
Croatian Academy of Vukovar, it is regarded
Arts and Sciences, the as the emblem of the
building houses the St Sebastian, Gallery museum. Among the
Gallery of Old Masters, of Old Masters Egyptian mummies on
which contains one of display is the so-called
the country’s finest picture Zagreb Mummy, dating from
collections, most of which the 3rd century BC.
was donated by Strossmayer
himself. The collection features
Renaissance art including y Museum of
canvases by Tintoretto and Contemporary Art
The Bather (1868) by Renoir in the El Greco. In the entrance hall Muzej suvremene umjetnosti
Mimara Museum is the 11th-century Baška
Avenija Dubrovnik 17. Map A5. Tel (01)
tablet, bearing one of the 605 2700. v 14. Open 11am–6pm
e Mimara Museum oldest-known inscriptions in Tue–Fri & Sun, 11am–8pm Sat. & 8
Muzej Mimara the Glagolitic script. Glagolitic 7 = - ∑ msu.hr
was used by medieval rulers
Rooseveltov trg 5. Map C4. Tel (01)
A major centre of avant-garde
482 8100. Open Oct–Jun: 10am–5pm
art in the years following 1945,
Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–7pm Thu,
10am–2pm Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–7pm
the museum, which opened in
Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 10am–2pm
2009, showcases contemporary
Sun. Closed Mon. & 8 = Croatian art. Highlights of the
display, Collection in Motion,
In 1972, Ante Topić Mimara, include abstract canvases by
a businessman who was also a painters Ivan Picelj, Aleksandar
collector, painter and restorer, Srnec and Julije Knifer and
donated his extensive collections conceptualist pieces by Mladen
to the city of Zagreb, and the Stilinovič, Tomislav Gotovac
Mimara Museum was set up and Vlado Martek. International
for their display. The museum acquisitions include artist Carsten
is housed in a Neo-Renaissance Höller’s toboggan slides. The
building built by the German building is in itself an attraction,
architects Ludwig and Hülsner in displaying both moving images
1895. The ground floor contains Susanna and the Old Men, Gallery of and abstract light displays
archaeological finds, Oriental Old Masters on its façade at night.
474 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
3 Tomislav Square
LJ. GA JEV
A.
ŠEN
TRG
A
5 Church of St John
P. P
Gallery of Old
CA
RE
D
PA
6 Herzer Palace
RAD
I
G
URŠU
Municipal
St John
L IN S
Cemetery SQUARE
the Baptist
IČA
Church KA
U.
Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PA V L I NS
VR
Palace TRG
Cathedral of the
A
AZ
N DUL IĆEV
Assumption
A Patačiċ
IĆ E V
A
KAČ Palace VA
IĆ E
DRA
DEL
HAB
ŠKO
GU
V IĆ
Church of
E VA
A
RC
SA
IN A
CE
U S TA
A UG
KAPUCINSKI
TRG
O VA
the Holy
Z. I FR
200 Trinity
0 yards
Bus
ANK
Station
OPAN
A
P Europska avenija
This avenue is Osijek’s main
thoroughfare, linking Tvrđa
to the Upper Town. It is famous
for the superb row of Art
Nouveau houses built for local
industrialists at the beginning of
the 20th century. It runs
through the leafy Park kralja
Držislava, which contains the
monumental sculpture Soldier in
the Throes of Death (1894) by
The main square, trg sv Trojstva, in the heart of Tvrđa Croatian sculptor Robert
Frangeš-Mihanović.
E Museum of Slavonia There are nine departments:
Trg sv Trojstva 6, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 250 730. natural history, archaeology
Open 9am–7pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 9am– (with prehistoric, antique and
10pm Thu, 5–9pm Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. medieval sections), numismatics,
& 8 ^ = Osijek Archaeological history, department of arts and
Museum: Open 10am–6pm Tue & Wed, crafts, ethnography, the technical
noon–8pm Thu, 10am–4pm Fri, 10am– department and a collection of
2pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon. & 8
old newspapers. There is a rich
On the eastern side of Tvrđa is collection devoted to local folklore,
the old Town Hall, which houses including intricately embroidered
the Museum of Slavonia (Muzej traditional costumes from
Slavonije). The museum has nearly surrounding villages. Local crafts
400,000 registered objects are represented with a range of
grouped into about 100 collections. painted wooden furniture.
The museum also houses the
Osijek Archaeological Museum,
which has displays of statuary
and tombstones from the Roman Soldier in the Throes of Death, Park kralja
settlement of Mursa, as well as Držislava, Europe Avenue
weapons and jewellery belong-
ing to the first Croat settlers. E Museum of Fine Arts
Europska avenija 9. Tel (031) 251 280.
R Church of the Holy Cross Open Sep–Jun: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri
Franjevačka ulica, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 208 (till 8pm Thu), 10am–1pm Sat & Sun;
177. Open 8am–noon & 3–8pm, daily. Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. &
8 by appt.
Northeast of Trg sv Trojstva, on
the site of a sacred medieval This gallery (Muzej likovnih
building, stands this church umjetnosti), founded in 1954,
(Crkva svetog Križa), built by is housed in an elegant 19th-
Statue from Roman Mursa, Osijek the Franciscans between 1709 century house. There are collec-
Archaeological Museum and 1720. Inside is a pretty tions of paintings from the 18th
For hotels and restaurants see p482 and p483
C R O AT I A 477
0 yards 500
GO
RN Drava
JO
O B D R AV Footbridge
AL
A SKA
RIB AR SKA
Š E TA
LIŠTE
KARD. FRANJE ŠEPERA
FRA NJE V AČKA
ŠAM
AŠK
Church of A Church of the
Sts Peter TRG ANTE TRG Holy Cross
KARDINAL
DRŽICA Museum of
PI
TRG L. FR A Slavonia
TR
N JE
A A LO J Z I J
MIRSKOG KUH
D . N EUM ANA
Croatian AČA
Market EUR
A
National KA
PROLAZ
AVE
KN
Theatre
ČKA
K R A LJ NIJA
A
R AD IĆE VA
ME
REBA
STEPINCA
GAJA
IJA
F. K R
ANA
ŽU PA NI JS
ZAG
R IČ A
O VA N
SU N Ć
A
RSK
ESA
RŠ
O . KE
VU
D. C
I S TA
KO
VA
GUNDUL IĆEVA Railway Station Bus Station RS
KA
Airport 400 m (440 yards) 400 m (440 yards) CE
5 km
S TA
(3 miles)
Arriving by Air Ancona and Split four times a Austria and Italy. Within
The national airline, Croatia week all year round. Blue Line Croatia, the bus network
Airlines, links Croatia’s main also runs daily services. is comprehensive but can
airports with the rest of Europe. be expensive. Services are
Other European airlines offering divided into Intercity (direct
scheduled services to Croatia Rail Travel connections between the larger
include Air France, Lufthansa Croatia is well connected to cities) and regional services
and Austrian Airlines. Among the rest of Europe by rail, (with connections to smaller
the budget airlines, Wizz Air flies especially Central Europe. towns and the main cities). For
direct to Zagreb from London Visitors travelling from London information, visitors can contact
Luton airport while easyJet to Zagreb should contact Rail or check the website of the
and Ryanair operate summer Europe or see their website for main bus station, Autobusni
season flights from the UK and information. Connections from kolodvor Zagreb.
Ireland to several cities on the other European cities include
Croatian coast. There are no Munich and Vienna.
direct flights from North America Within Croatia, all the major Travelling by Car
or Australasia although one or towns and cities are linked Travelling to Croatia by car is
two-stop flights involving a by rail, with the exception of most popular with visitors from
change at a major European Dubrovnik, where there is no neighbouring countries. Those
airport are easy to arrange. railway station. The hub of the driving in Croatia need to carry
Croatia has airports at Zagreb, Croatian railway network is in a valid driving licence, the car’s
Split, Dubrovnik, Osijek, Pula, the capital Zagreb, where the log book and a Green Card.
Rijeka and Zadar. All are close head office of Croatian Railways Hiring a car is relatively easy
to their respective city centres is located. and rental agencies can be
and well connected to them found in all the main towns
by regular bus services. and cities. It is best to hire from
Travelling by Bus big companies such as Avis or
Croatia is also well linked Hertz, which offer competitive
Arriving by Sea to other countries by bus. prices. One of the advantages
Several boat companies International buses connect of renting a car through these
operate between Croatia and the country with the bordering companies is having the option
Italy. Jadrolinija, the main ferry states and also with France, of leaving the car in a different
company, runs between Switzerland, Germany, Slovakia, town from the collection point.
DIRECTORY
Documentation Visitor Arriving by Air Arriving by Sea
Information Air France
Croatian Ministry of Blue Line
Foreign Affairs Croatian National ∑ airfrance.com ∑ blueline-ferries.com
∑ mvep.hr Tourist Board Austrian Airlines Jadrolinija
Iblerov trg 10/IV, Zagreb.
∑ austrian.com Riva 16, Rijeka.
Embassies Tel (01) 469 9333.
Croatia Airlines Tel (051) 666 111.
∑ croatia.hr
Australia ∑ croatiaairlines.com
Emergency Rail Travel
Kaptol Centar, Zagreb. Dubrovnik Airport
Tel (01) 489 1200. Numbers Tel (020) 773 100. Croatian Railways
Ambulance ∑ airport-dubrovnik.hr Tel (060) 333 444.
Canada
Tel 194. easyJet ∑ hzpp.hr
Prilaz Gjure Deželića 4,
Zagreb. ∑ easyjet.com Rail Europe
Fire
Tel (01) 488 1200. Lufthansa Tel (08448) 484 064.
Tel 193.
∑ lufthansa.com ∑ raileurope.com
New Zealand General Emergency
Vlaška 50a, Zagreb. Tel 112. Ryanair Travelling by Bus
Tel (01) 461 2060. ∑ ryanair.com
Police Autobusni Kolodvor
United Kingdom Tel 192. Split Airport Zagreb
I. Lučića 4, Zagreb. Tel (021) 203 506. Tel (060) 313 333.
Tel (01) 600 9100. Communications ∑ split-airport.hr ∑ akz.hr
United States Tele2 Wizz Air
∑ tele2.hr ∑ wizzair.com
Travelling by Car
Ul. Thomasa Jeffersona 2,
Zagreb. T-Mobile Zagreb Airport Avis
Tel (01) 661 2200. ∑ hrvatskitelekom.hr Pieso bb HR - 10 150, ∑ avis.com.hr
∑ zagreb.usembassy. Vipnet Zagreb. Tel (060) 320 320. Hertz
gov ∑ vipnet.hr ∑ zagreb- airport.hr ∑ hertz.hr
480 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
DIRECTORY
Markets Souvenirs Hemingway Croatian National
VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc
Avenue Mall Boutique Croata Split. ∑ hemingway.hr Uljarska 1, Rijeka.
Av Dubrovnik 16, Zagreb. Prolaz Oktogon, Tel (051) 337 114.
Tel (01) 652 7645. Močvara
Ilica 5, Zagreb.
Trnjanski nasip bb, Zagreb. Zagrebačko kazalište
Dolac Tel (01) 481 2726. Tel (01) 615 9667. lutaka
Tel (01) 481 3199. Ulica baruna
Food Night Club Fuego
Importanne Centar Brsalje 8, Near Pile Gate, Trenka 3, Zagreb.
Starčevićev trg 7, Zagreb. Natura Croatica Dubrovnik. Tel (01) 487 8445.
Tel (01) 457 7076. Preradovićeva 8, Zagreb. Tel (020) 312 870.
Folk Music
Tel (01) 485 5076. O’Hara
Handicrafts Dubrovnik Summer
Zigante Tartufi Uvala Zenta 3, Split.
Etno butik Mara ∑ ohara.hr Festival
Livade 7, Livade.
Ilica 49, Zagreb. ∑ dubrovnik-
Tel (052) 664 030. Rock Club Uljanik
Tel (01) 480 6511. festival.hr
Dobrilina 2, Pula.
Hrvatska kuća Nightlife Pula Amphitheatre
Veneranda Forum 3, Pula.
Materina priča
Aquarius Club On the hill above Riva, Hvar. Tel (052) 219 197.
Preradovićeva 31, Zagreb.
Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb,
Širok Jarun, Zagreb. Theatre, Dance
Bakačeva 8, Zagreb. Tel (01) 364 0231. and Festivals
Tel (01) 481 6552.
Café-Disco Croatian National
Jewellery Bar Makina Theatre
Putnička obala bb. Trg maršala Tita 15,
Mala Galerija Zagreb. Tel (01) 488 8418;
Užarska 25, Rijeka. Carpe Diem Trg Gaje Bulata 1, Split.
Tel (051) 335 403. Riva, Hvar. Tel (021) 306 908.
482 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
DUBROVNIK: Fresh Price Guide
Sheets B&B Prices are based on one night’s stay in
B&B high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Bunićeva poljana 6
Tel 091 896 7509 under 600 kuna
∑ freshsheetsbedandbreakfast. 600 to 1200 kuna
over 1200 kuna
com
Occupying a unique space
behind the Cathedral, Fresh
Sheets offers a mix of well- ROVINJ: Hotel Lone
equipped and modern double Boutique
rooms and apartments, all Luje Adamovića 31
decorated in bright colours. Tel (052) 800 250
∑ lonehotel.com
DUBROVNIK: Karmen This uber-contemporary hotel
B&B hovers above Lone Bay like a
Bandureva 1 friendly alien spaceship. The
Tel (020) 323 433 rooms are well appointed and
Excellent view from the Hotel Luxe ∑ karmendu.com the social areas, grouped around
in Split Comfortable apartments in one a spiral stairway, a joy to use.
of the Old-Town’s most atmospheric
corners, atractively furnished
Zagreb with bric-a-brac and antiques. DK Choice
SPLIT: Goli&Bosi
ZigZag Integrated Hotel DUBROVNIK: Villa Hostel
Apartments Map E3 Dubrovnik Morpurgova poljana 2
Petrinjska 9 Luxury Tel (021) 510 999
Tel (01) 889 5433 Vlaha Bukovca 6 ∑ gollybossy.com
∑ zigzag.hr Tel (020) 500 300 A converted department
Stylish self-catering apartments ∑ villa-dubrovnik.hr store is home to this innovative
in a variety of sizes conveniently In addition to characteristic design hostel. The hostel
located at the central Petrinjska comfort, seclusion and high provides plenty of accomo-
address and in nearby streets. standards of service, expect dation options–dorm beds
stunning views at Villa Dubrovnik, taking the form of semi-private
DoubleTree by Hilton nestled beneath cliffs to the cubicles, en suite doubles and
Business east of the Old Town, overlooking top-floor family rooms. The
Grada Vukovara 269a the crystal clear waters of hostel's cafe-restaurant spreads
Tel (01) 600 1900 the Adriatic. out into the neighbour ing
neighbouring
∑ hilton.com/zagreb piazza during the summer.
Modern hotel with excellent HVAR: Adriana
service and faciities In the up- Luxury
and-coming commercial district. Obala Fabrika 28 SPLIT: Hotel Luxe
Tel (021) 750 200 Boutique
Esplanade ∑ suncanihvar.com Kralja Zvonimira 6
Historic Map D5 Smart hotel on the harbourfront Tel (021) 314 444
Mihanovićeva 1 with small but stylish rooms, ∑ hotelluxesplit.com
Tel (01) 456 6666 popular top-floor bar and Bright colours and swish design
∑ esplanade.hr swimming pool. characterize this contemporary
Long established as a haven hotel located above the port.
for celebrities, this uber-stylish KORČULA: Lesić-Dimitri
and iconic hotel is set in a regal Luxury TROGIR: Concordia
1920s building combining its Don Pavla Poše 1–6 B&B
Art Deco glamour with every Tel (021) 715 560 Obala Bana Berislavića 22
contemporary convenience. ∑ lesic-dimitri.com Tel (021) 885 400
Luxury apartments occupying ∑ concordia-hotel.net
a row of restored houses in Set in an 18th-century
Korčula's Old Town. Each stone house, Concordia
Rest of Croatia apartment has a fully-equipped offers cosy rooms, many
kitchen and contemporary with harbour views.
BRAČ: Villa Adriatica bathroom.
Boutique VARAŽDIN: Pansion Garestin
Put vele luke 31, Supetar OSIJEK: Waldinger B&B
Tel (021) 755 010 Closed Oct-Apr Historic Zagrebačka 34
∑ villaadriatica.com Županijska 8 Tel (042) 214 314
A chic and well-equipped Tel (031) 250 450 ∑ gastrocom-ugostiteljstvo.com
family-run hotel, Adriatica ∑ waldinger.hr A 10-minute walk from the
is situated in a quiet, peaceful Nineteenth-century city- town’s Baroque centre this
neighbourhood, which is centre building with neat, B&B offers plain but well-
just minutes away from burgundy-hued rooms and equipped rooms above a
the seafront. modern bathrooms. popular restaurant.
For map references see pp466–7
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 483
BOSNIA AND
HERZEGOVINA
In the light of its tragic history in recent times, it is easy to forget
that Bosnia and Herzegovina was one of the most powerful states
in Europe in the Middle Ages. Although the country still wears the
scars of battle, it nevertheless charms visitors with its breathtaking
scenery, atmospheric medieval towns and warm, hospitable people.
Exploring Bosnia
and Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina has a wealth of fascinating
towns to explore as well as stunning natural beauty. The
capital, Sarajevo, is one of Europe’s most lively cities, yet
retains an old-world charm. To the south lies Mostar,
with its atmospheric medieval centre, while to the
northwest Jajce enjoys a picturesque location above
two waterfalls. The country’s rail network is poorly con-
nected, but its roads are in reasonably good condition.
Although most towns are served by buses, car hire
provides greater flexibility.
Sights at a Glance
1 Sarajevo pp488–93 4 Bihać The well-preserved medieval fortress
2 Travnik 5 Mostar pp496–7 dominating the town of Travnik
3 Jajce 6 Međugorje
CROATIA
Bosanska Bosanska Bosanski
Šturlić Dubica Gradiška Brod a
Orašje
n
as
Bos
16
4 Derventa
Vrb
Prijedor 17
a
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Banja Luka
5 Sanski Most 15 Gračanica Srebrenik
Bosanski Spr 4 Janja
Kulen Kotor Varoš eč
Sa
16
a
a
Vr
17
Un Bočac b
ac Ključ Tuzla
an
14-2
4
ja
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Mrkonjić
Drvar Grad Jajce Zvornik
18
a Travnik
v
Pli
Babanovac
Bosansko Kladanj Bratunac
Grahovo Zenica
15
19
Glamoč
as
Kupres
16
A1
Vogošća
-2
6-
Podromanlja SERBIA
1
Gornji Vakuf
SARAJEVO
16
Ne
Foča rin
D
Railway Posušje
ret
va
Tjentište
Tara
International border
Mostar
Međugorje 6-1
17
Stolac Gacko
Caplijina MONTENEGRO
20
Neum
8
Tre Bileća
biš
njic
a
Trebinje
Adriatic
Sea
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
1 Sarajevo
Founded by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century,
the vibrant capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina was at
the centre of the longest siege in modern European
history. Between 1992 and 1995, it lost over 11,000 of
its citizens in the Bosnian War. Today, Sarajevo is home
to a population of nearly half a million people and a
massive reconstruction effort has returned the city to
its former glory. Its bustling streets are now lined with
designer boutiques, trendy bars and cafés catering to
the influx of visitors, while the 16th-century Old Town
(Baščaršija) offers laid-back charm. Scattered through-
out the city are mosques, synagogues and Catholic
and Orthodox churches, a reflection of Sarajevo’s
Sebilj Fountain in the Old Town’s
complex history and rich cultural diversity.
main market
T I TA
LA
Railway Station RŠA
200 m (220 yards) MA
B R A NR D E VA
R A D I Ć E VA
ĐU
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TERA Miljacka
DIZDARA
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Sights at a Glance
1 Old Town 6 Long Bazaar and Brusa Bazaar
0 metres 200
2 City Hall and National Library 7 Latin Bridge
8 Emperor’s Mosque 0 yards 200
3 Archangel Michael and
9 Franciscan Church
Gabriel Orthodox Church
of St Anthony
and Museum 0 Ashkenazi Synagogue
4 Old Synagogue Key
q National Art Gallery
and Jewish Museum w National Museum Major sight / Place of interest
5 Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque e History Museum Pedestrian street
Getting Around
The compact city centre and the Old Town are easily
visited on foot. The pedestrianized Ferhadija runs
through the heart of the city. Efficient tram and bus
services cover the whole city and are a reliable
way of getting around. Taxis are plentiful and fairly
inexpensive; taxi stands can be found all over the
city and operate 24 hours a day.
SAFE T B E G
LO G AV I N A
SA G R D D
G LO D I N A
KEČ I N A
O VA
KARPUZ
ŽIJ
A BAŠAG
E
POTOK L I N I C A
ČEME R L I N A
I ĆA
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RA
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HR
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IPA Š I ĆA
OS
J
IJIN A
BU TRAK
KA PE
ČIKM
A
TA F E B A Š E S K I J E
ETIĆA MULA MUS
DŽEN
O P R KA N J
M E H M E D A S PA H E VELIKA
AVLIJA
JE L I Ć A
KAPTOL
I
SARAČ
B R AVA D Ž I L U
K
FER HA DIJ
A
BAŠČARŠIJA A Novi
BAN
ĆEMALUŠA
most
K U LO V I Ć A
TRG
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AŠČ KUL Milj OVIĆ
ME
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H BERE ISAK
ELENI ALA EGA
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B R AĆ M O R I Ć
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B RA J E VA Latinska
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TA L
C A S AR
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BI S T
KO NAK
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AT-MEJDAN
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Čobanija
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most
HA M D IJEK M ED
F R A N J E VA Č K A A
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VA
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BISTRIK
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PU
The atmospheric Old Town market lined with old buildings and shops
P Old Bridge
Mostar’s symbolic centrepiece,
the elegant stone Old Bridge
(Stari most) spans the Neretva
river, connecting the two sides
of the Old Town. Built by Mimar
Hajruddin in the 16th century,
during the reign of the Ottoman
ruler Suleiman the Magnificent,
the bridge reaches a maximum
height of 21 m (69 ft). Despite
being recognized by UNESCO
The narrow cobbled streets of Mostar’s Old Town as a World Heritage Site, the
bridge became the focus of target
P Old Town a walking tour, the area can practice for Croatian soldiers
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, easily be explored in a day. during the Bosnian War and was
the historic Old Town (Stari grad) The Kujundžiluk Bazaar, with its completely destroyed in November
is the main attraction of Mostar rambling streets of small shops 1993. Reconstruction began soon
with its grand Turkish houses and cafés, is charming, and the after the war ended and the
and the Old Bridge. Ideal for only reminders of the 1990s renovated bridge, which is an
UDA
3 Herzegovina Museum
ĆE
R
FEJ
NU
AD
RN E D
4 Karadjoz-Beg Mosque BU
IĆ A
EMA
A Karadjoz-Beg
5 Bišćević House
EVIĆ
Mosque
B U ĆA
IVIZIJE
BIŠĆ
BRAĆ E
KU
M AR
Bišćević
JUN
BU
House
DŽ
Š ALA
LEV
ILU
LA K I Š I Ć A
K
Ner e
AR
TITA
RA
DE va B A J ATOVA
t
BI Herzegovina
TA
N Museum
CA
O L D TO W N
E
REP
HU S NIJE
BU
ONEŠ Č U
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Old Bridge
AR
MA
VA
E BLA C A
NE
G OJK AĆ
R
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BR
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0 metres 300
AT
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ĆA
ĆA
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0 yards 300
BU
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For hotels and restaurants see p500 and p501 For keys to symbols see back flap
BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA 497
U Karadjoz-Beg Mosque
Kujundžiluk. Open 9am–9pm daily.
On the eastern side of Mostar Statue of the Virgin Mary on Apparition
stands the most significant exam- Hill, Međugorje
ple of sacred Islamic architecture
in Herzegovina. Built in 1557, 6 Međugorje
this mosque (Karadžozbegova 169 km (105 miles) SW of Sarajevo.
džamija) is typical of Ottoman * 5,000. @ ∑ medjugorje.org
architecture, with a marble foun-
tain and an madrasa (Islamic The village of Međugorje, in the
Mostar’s landmark Old Bridge, spanning school) in the courtyard. Its southern part of Herzegovina,
the Neretva river interior was once adorned with is regarded as Bosnia’s most
floral motifs, of which only famous Catholic pilgrimage site.
E Herzegovina Museum fragments remain. The slender The small parish owes its
Bajatova 4. Tel (036) 551 602. minaret offers sweeping views reputation to a series of
Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am– over Mostar and its environs. reported visions of the Virgin
noon Sat. & ∑ muzejher Mary. The “Queen of Peace”,
cegovine.com P Bišćević House as locals refer to her, was
Founded in 1950, the eclectic Bišćevića. n (036) 580 275. initially witnessed in 1981 by
Herzegovina Museum (Muzej Open 9am–6pm daily. & six children. Crowds of eager
Hercegovine) is housed in the The delightful 17th-century pilgrims gathered to see the
residence of Džemal Bijedić, Bišćević House (Bišćevića kuća), is apparition, but it was only
former head of the Yugoslav a fine example of Turkish design. visible to the children, who
government. Built in an Oriental Partially supported by tall stone were reportedly told ten
style with a porch and a columns, the interior of the house secrets about the future of the
courtyard, the building was features segregated living quarters planet. Today, over 20 million
established to promote the and period furnishings. The building people have visited the site
literary and cultural history enjoys a lofty position on the and numerous independent
of Herzegovina. It exhibits a eastern bank of the Neretva river sightings have been recorded.
variety of regional costumes and offers fine views over the town. However, the Vatican has never
acknowledged the apparitions
and dismisses the claims.
A blue cross stands on the
mountain, now called Apparition
Hill, where the first sighting
took place.
Also worth visiting is the
impressive Church of St James,
in the heart of the town.
Completed in 1969, this is the
gathering place for worshippers
and holy masses are regularly
held here in many languages.
Southwest of the town
stands Mount Križevac, on top
of which an 8-m (26-ft)high
cross was planted in 1934 to
commemorate the 1,900th
Elegant interior of the Karadjoz-Beg Mosque anniversary of Christ’s death.
498 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Arriving by Air and overnight trains run north plentiful and often accept
Sarajevo International from Sarajevo to Zagreb and credit cards. Major car rental
Airport, 12 km (7 miles) Ploče in Croatia. The southern firms at Sarajevo Airport include
southwest of the city, is the only line from Sarajevo via Mostar to Budget, Rent a Car Minell and
international airport with daily Ploče, in Croatia, is the country’s Thrifty, as well as Hertz, Avis
flights. It is worth noting that most scenic route. Bosnia is now and more. Those travelling in
the airport is prone to fog in accessible with an InterRail ticket, their own car will need registra-
winter, which can cause flight but not yet with Eurail. Sarajevo tion documents, Green Card
cancellations or delays at short Train Station is easily accessible insurance and an EU or inter-
notice. Mostar’s airport has from the downtown area. national driving licence. Snow
weekly flights to Dubrovnik in chains are essential for winter
Croatia, and caters to charter travel. Drivers should ensure
flights travelling to Međugorje. Travelling by Bus that they carry a dual language
BH Airlines connects Sarajevo The country has a reliable bus road map as most of the road
with many European cities such network with daily services signs in Republika Srpska –
as Amsterdam, Vienna, Frankfurt, covering the whole country. one of the two main political
Zurich and Copenhagen. International buses run daily divisions of the country –
Lufthansa, Austrian Airlines, from Sarajevo to Ljubljana, are in Cyrillic.
Air Serbia, Adria Airways, Kotor, Belgrade, Zagreb and
Pegasus, Scandinavian Airlines Dubrovnik. Eurolines operates
and Croatia Airlines have regular coaches from Sarajevo to Outdoor Activities
flights to Munich, Vienna, Koeln, other European cities through Before Bosnia’s natural
Zagreb, Stuttgart, Belgrade, the Bosnian bus company beauty was marred by
Budapest, Ljubljana, Istanbul, Centrotrans. Reservations can landmines, it was a paradise
and Stockholm. be made through Eurolines for hiking, mountain biking,
offices abroad. climbing and rafting. None
of these activities are now
Rail Travel recommended without a
Bosnia’s rail network suffered Travelling by Car local professional guide.
severe damage during the Travelling by car is the most Both Green Visions and the
Bosnian War. Its services are convenient form of transport Encijan Mountain Association
still limited and journeys are in Bosnia. It is safe to drive all promote sustainable develop-
slow, as the routes tend to around the country, although ment, providing internationally
be circuitous. Mainline connec- the usual landmine warnings qualified guides and running
tions with neighbouring about not straying off the road organized wilderness trips in
capitals have been introduced apply. Petrol stations are areas that are clear of mines.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Emergency Arriving by Air Travelling by Bus
Numbers
United Kingdom Austrian Airlines Centrotrans
Ambulance ∑ aua.com Tel (033) 464 045.
Tina Ujevića 8, Sarajevo. ∑ eurolines.ba
Tel 124. Air Serbia
Tel (033) 444 429.
Fire ∑ airserbia.com
∑ ukinbih.fco.gov.uk Travelling by Car
Tel 123. Adria Airways
United States Police ∑ adria.si Budget
1 Robert C. Frasure St, Tel 122. Tel (033) 766 670; (063)
BH Airlines 047 968. ∑ budget.ba
Sarajevo. Tel (033) 704 ∑ bhairlines.ba
000. ∑ sarajevo. Health and Rent a Car Minell
Security Croatia Airlines Tel (033) 881 188.
usembassy.gov ∑ croatiaairlines.com ∑ rentacarminell.net
Clinical Hospital
Mostar Lufthansa Thrifty
Visitor ∑ lufthansa.com Tel (033) 760 645.
Tel (036) 336 500.
Information Pegasus
∑ thrifty.ba
Emergency Medical
∑ flypgs.com
Mostar Tourist Service Outdoor Activities
Information Centre Kolodvorska 14, Sarajevo. Sarajevo Airport
Tel (033) 611 111. ∑ sarajevo-airport.ba Green Visions
Tel (036) 580 275. ∑ greenvisions.ba
∑ hercegovina.ba Scandinavian Airlines
Landmines ∑ flysas.com Encijan Mountain
Sarajevo Tourist Association
Mine Action Centre ∑ pkencijan.com
Information Centre ∑ bhmac.org Rail Travel
Tel (033) 580 999. UK Foreign Office Sarajevo Train Station
∑ sarajevo-tourism.com ∑ fco.gov.uk Tel (033) 655 330.
500 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Hotel Safr Price Guide
Sarajevo B&B/Guesthouse Map F2 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
ul. Jagodića 3, 71000 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hostel Franz Ferdinand Tel (033) 475 040
Hostel Map E2 ∑ hotelsafir.ba under 100 KM
Jelića 4, 71000 Smart intimate hotel just 100–160 KM
over 160 KM
Tel (033) 834 625 uphill from the Baščaršija
∑ franzferdinandhostel.com offering neat en suites with
Smart, crisply decorated hostel wooden floors. Built on the ruins of a Turkish
on the edge of the Baščaršija, bath, in the centre of the Old
with a choice of cubicle-style Town, this hotel offers sauna
dorm beds or comfortable facilities and smartly-
history-themed doubles. Rest of Bosnia and furnished rooms.
Herzegovina
Traveller’s Home MEĐUGORJE: Villa Petra
Hostel Map E3 BIHAĆ: Ada B&B
Ćumurija 4, 71000 Resort Bijakovići Podbrdo bb, 88266
Tel 70 242 400 Put 5. Korpusa bb, 77000 Tel 63 994 499
∑ myhostel.ba Tel (037) 318 100 ∑ villapetra-medjugorje.com
Stylishly restored Austro- ∑ aduna.ba Pleasant family house set
Hungarian building with parquet Lovely riverside complex with in the Herzegovinian countryside,
floors, fully equipped kitchen and great scenery and comfortable within walking distance of the
a good mix of dorms and private rooms located in the pleasant main pilgrimage sites.
rooms. countryside just outside Bihać.
MOSTAR: Pansion Villa Sara
Garni Hotel Konak Hostel
B&B/Guesthouse Map E2 DK Choice Lacina-Šaša Rogina 4, 88000
Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 54, 71000 BIHAĆ: Kostelski Buk Tel (036) 555 940
Tel (033) 476 900 Resort ∑ villasara-mostar.com
∑ konak.ba Kostela bb, 77000 Well-run establishment
Small friendly setup with Tel (037) 302 340 offering a mix of dorms and
neat en suite rooms that ∑ kostelski-buk.com double rooms, with bathroom
have wooden floors and Located near a popular riverside and kitchen facilities on
contemporary comforts. spot characterized by waterfalls each of its four floors.
Centrally located near the and foaming waters, this hotel
pedestrian zone, a short offers bright and romantic rooms MOSTAR: Bevanda
distance from the Old Town. Local walks, a modest animal Luxury
park and riverside restaurant Stara Ilička bb, 88000
Mejdan Motel ensure that there's plenty to do. Tel (036) 332 332
B&B/Guesthouse ∑ hotelbevanda.com
Mustaj-pašin mejdan 11, 71000 Sophisticated 5-star
Tel (033) 233 563 JAJCE: Stari Grad hotel with opulently
∑ mejdanmotel.com Historic furnished rooms, fitness
Despite the motel tag, this Svetog Luke 3, 70101 facilities and a garden
is an intimate guesthouse Tel (030) 654 006 restaurant with delightful
in the Old Town offering neat ∑ jajcetours.com water fountains.
rooms at an attractive price.
MOSTAR: Muslibegović
Hotel Astra House
Business Map E3 Historic
ul. Zelenih Beretki 9, 71000 Osman Dikića 41, 88000
Tel (033) 252 100 Tel (036) 551 379
∑ hotel-astra.co.ba ∑ muslibegovichouse.com
Located centrally, this hotel Once home to an Ottoman-
with an impressive interior era aristocrat, this beautifully
also has on-site sauna and preserved building is both
conference facilities. a museum and hotel. Its
Efficient staff. atmospheric rooms provide
all modern comforts.
Hotel Colors Inn
Design TRAVNIK: ABA Motel
Koševo 8, 71000 Business
Tel (033) 276 600 ulica Šumeće 166, 72270
∑ hotelcolorsinnsarajevo.com Tel (030) 511 462
Between the train station and ∑ aba.ba
the Old Town is this smart At the foot of forested
modern place with stylish, hills, the recently built ABA
contemporary, colour-themed offers spotless rooms, good
rooms and a bright relaxing Impressive façade of the Muslibegović service and sumptuous
breakfast area. House in Mostar buffet breakfasts.
For map references see pp488–9
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 501
MOSTAR: Ćevabdžinica
DK Choice Tima-Irma
Ćevabdžinica Željo Balkan grill
Balkan grill Map E3 Onešćukova bb, 88000
Kundurdžiluk 19, 71000 Unique interiors of Karuzo Tel 062 958 539
Tel (033) 447 000 in Sarajevo Local staples such as ćevapi,
Full of football-related pljeskavice (grilled meat patties)
memorabilia and named Sedef and sudžukice (spicy sausages)
after the local team Željezničar Bosnian Map D3 served in a cosy interior or on
(Željo for short), this small Ferhadija 16, 71000 the outdoor terrace.
cafe-restaurant is one of the Tel (033) 200 588
best places in town to sample Excellent family-run eatery MOSTAR: Hindin Han
ćevapi, the local fast-food in a warm, atmospheric space, Balkan grill/Seafood
speciality – small spicy cylinders serving fresh salads, high-quality Jusovina bb, 88000
of ground lamb and beef, which grilled meats and traditonal Tel (036) 581 054
are grilled and sandwiched in a soups and stews. Enjoy large portions of grilled
somun (springy flat bread). meats, fresh salads and Adriatic
Karuzo €€€ seafood in a traditional house
Vegetarian/Seafood Map D2 that has a balustraded terrace
Dveri Dženetića Čikma bb, 71000 overlooking the river.
International Map E2 Tel (033) 444 647
Prote Bakovića 12, 71000 This cosy restaurant with MOSTAR: Kriva Ćuprija
Tel (033) 537 020 bench seating and nautical bric- International
With a vast menu extending a-brac has a seasonally changing Onešćukova 23, 88000
from steak to seafood risottos menu of creative vegetarian Tel (036) 360 360
and even the odd tandoori, cuisine as well as sushi Choose from dining on the large
Dveri is a small and cosy and seafood. terrace or indoors under a ceiling
restaurant artfully decorated with wooden beams. The restaurant
with hanging bunches of Morica Han has a large menu comprising
garlic, corn-cobs and Bosnian Map E2 roast meats, seafood, freshwater
potted plants. Sarači 77, 71000 fish, pizza and pasta.
Tel (033) 236 119
Kibe Housed in a 16th-century han MOSTAR: Kulluk
Bosnian (merchants’ inn), this appealing Bosnian/International
Vrbanjuša 164, 71000 restaurant serves traditional Kurluk 1, 88000
Tel (033) 441 936 Bosnian meats and stews in a Tel (036) 551 716
This hillside restaurant quiet cobbled courtyard. Rising above street level with
with great views of the city, a cobbled terrace overlooking
is known for its traditional the Neretva river, Kulluk serves a
Bosnian meat menu, broad range of Bosnian dishes
ncluding some hearty Rest of Bosnia and alongside decent pizza and
stews and roasts. Herzegovina Adriatic seafood.
MONTENEGRO
Famous for its idyllic Adriatic coastline, Montenegro is enormously popular with
those looking to plant beach umbrellas or moor their luxury yachts, though this
small and newly independent country has far more to offer. Venetian-flavoured,
fortified towns line the coast, while national parks protect the best of its
abundant and largely unspoilt natural beauty.
Exploring Montenegro
Montenegro is dominated by towering peaks that
provide a stunning backdrop to the sparkling blue
Adriatic and the sandy beaches that line the country’s
coastline. Its capital is the Ottoman-influenced city of
Podgorica, dotted with mosques, cafés and restaurants.
Among the other cities of interest is Kotor, located on
Montenegro’s most beautiful bay. Getting around is
easy as the bus service is extensive, although sporadic
inland. A railway line runs from Bar to Podgorica, and
on to Belgrade.
Sights at a Glance
1 Podgorica 7 Herceg Novi
2 Lake Skadar National Park 8 Kotor Venetian buildings along the cobbled streets of
3 Bar 9 Lovćen National Park the Old Town, Budva
4 Ulcinj 0 Cetinje
5 Budva q Ostrog Monastery pp512–3
6 Tivat w Durmitor National Park
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Gradac
BOSNIA Pljevlja
AND
HERZEGOVINA
Mratinje Durmitor
National Park
Trsa Kovren
Plužine
Žabljak Durdevića Tara SE RBIA
Goransko
Nedakusi
Piv
Gornja
Ta
Bijelo Polje
ra
a
Bukovica
18
Ravna Rijeka
Šavnik
Mojkovac
2
6 Nikšić 9
2
Lake KOSOVO
ra
Vilusi Andrejevica
Ta
Slansko Ostrog
18
Grahovo
Monastery
Zet
Plav
a
Liješnje
Ribn
Cetinje
Lovćen National Park Tuzi
Rijeka
Crnojevića 2 Golubovci
Budva Vranjina
Virpazar
Sveti Stefan Lake Skadar
Petrovac Godinje
National Park
Adriatic Sutomore Murići
Sea
Bar Veliki Ostros Key
Bari Major road
Krute Vladimir
Valdanos Minor road
Ulcinj Donji Štoj
Railway
International border
The magnificent Lake Skadar National Park, home to numerous species of flora and fauna
For hotels and restaurants see p517 and pp518–9
MONTENEGRO 507
6 Tivat
80 km (50 miles) W of Podgorica.
Igalo’s Healing Mud
* 8,000. k @ n Palih Boraca 8, The town of Igalo, close to Herceg Novi, is
(032) 671324. ∑ tivat.travel famed for the healing Igaljsko blato (Igalo
mud) found on its beach. First documented
Situated on the Bay of Kotor, by an Austro-Hungarian physician in the 19th
Tivat has emerged as a major century, a spa treatment centre was built
tourist attraction, where visi- here, which now operates as a spa hotel
tors promenade along the (see p542). Visitors can also treat themselves
beachfront beneath palm for free by sunbathing on the beach with its Visitor undergoing mud
trees as expensive yachts therapeutic mud. therapy
cruise in and out of
the marina.
Wealthy aristocrats from Austro-Hungarian Clock
Kotor were among the first to Tower (Sahat Kula) has
build their summer residences been a symbol of the town
here in the Middle Ages. The ever since.
Buća-Luković Summer Palace King Tvrtko left his mark
(Vila Buća-Luković) on the by constructing the Forte
seafront was once the seasonal Mare Castle on the seafront,
home of the Bućas, one of the while the Ottomans added
wealthiest families of Kotor. The to the defences with the
palace’s stone tower and small Bloody Tower (Kanli Kula). The
Baroque church date back to latter gained its gruesome
the 15th century. The moniker following its conver-
Renaissance building is now Evening stroll along the broad promenade sion to an infamous prison
used for cultural performances in Tivat during Turkish rule. In the
and exhibitions throughout 1950s, part of the tower was
the summer. turned into a summer amphi-
North of the town centre, 7 Herceg Novi theatre with the Adriatic as
the Town Park is a pleasant its backdrop.
90 km (56 miles) W of Podgorica.
retreat shaded by cypress, * 11,000. @ n Jova Dabovića 12,
In the heart of the Old Town
eucalyptus and oleander trees. (031) 350 820. ∑ hercegnovi.travel is the Church of the Archangel
The small Island of Flowers, Michael (Crkva Sv Arhanđela
connected to the mainland Founded in the 14th century Milaila), completed in 1911.
by a narrow isthmus, is home by the Bosnian King Tvrtko, It harmoniously combines
to the partially excavated ruins Herceg Novi fell to the Romanesque and Islamic
of the Monastery of Archangel Ottoman Empire shortly after architectural features,
Michael, founded in the 13th 1483. Following two centuries exemplified by the central
century by Benedictine monks. of intermittent battles, the cupola flanked by minaret-
Venetians took power in like turrets. Inside is a fine
P Buća-Luković Summer Palace the late 17th century and marble iconostasis made
Nikole Ðurkovića br. 10. Tel (032) 674 stayed until 1797. The Austro- by Croatian masons.
591. Open summer: 8am–1pm & Hungarians then took over
noon–7pm daily; winter: 8am–1pm & until 1918, when the town P Bloody Tower
4pm–11pm Mon–Fri. & - = was finally absorbed into Stari grad. Open 8am–8:30pm daily.
Montenegro. The 19th-century R Church of the
Archangel Michael
trg Belavista. Open 8am–8:30pm daily.
0 Cetinje qOstrog
39 km (24 miles) W of Podgorica. Monastery
* 16,000. @ n (041) 230 250. Manastir Ostrog
∑ cetinje.travel
See pp512–3.
Once the capital of Montenegro,
Cetinje exudes an inescapable
air of faded grandeur. Podgorica wDurmitor
replaced the town as capital in National Park
1946 but despite the loss of its Nacionalni park Durmitor
official status, it is still considered
140 km (87 miles) N of Podgorica.
to be the country’s historic cen- @ from Podgorica. n ulica Jovana
tre; it was here that King Ivan Cvijića, (052) 360 228.
Crnojević established the capital ∑ nparkovi.me
of the old Zeta kingdom in the Façade of the imposing 18th-century
15th century. Pretty houses line Cetinje Monastery Designated a national park
the streets and low rocky hills in 1952 and a UNESCO World
frame the town on all sides. Highlights include the Heritage Site in 1980, Durmitor
The most significant building death mask of the legendary National Park takes in a vast
here, the Cetinje Monastery Albanian ruler Karo Mahmud expanse of spectacular
(Cetinjski Manastir), was con- Pasha Busatlija. On the first scenery. One of the oldest
structed in 1701 to replace floor is the museum’s absorbing protected areas in Montenegro,
the 15th-century Crnojević collection of 19th- and 20th- it is situated on a 1,500-m
Monastery. As the seat of century Montenegrin and (4,920-ft) high plateau, from
Montenegro’s religious leader, Yugoslavian art. which numerous peaks rise
Vladika, the monastery attracted to heights of about 2,500 m
the country’s influential figures Cetinje Monastery (8,200 ft).
and functioned as the unofficial Cetinje BB. Tel (041) 231 021. Known for its glacial lakes,
capital and centre of organized Open 8am–6pm daily. & = waterfalls and crystal-clear
resistance against the Ottomans. rivers, the park has a broad
E Njegoš Museum
Today, the monastery is best range of flora and fauna,
trg Kralja Nikole, Biljarda. Tel (041) 230
known for possessing what is including mountain maple,
310. Open 9am–5pm daily.
believed to be St John the Baptist’s Bosnian iris, edelweiss,
&=
right hand, a tiny fragment of Montenegrin bellflower, and
the original Holy Cross, and for E Montenegrin National bears, wolves, golden eagles
its Treasury Museum. Exhibits History Museum and white-headed vultures.
in the museum include unique Novice Cerovića 7, Vladin Dom. It is also famous for its 400-
religious manuscripts dating Tel (041) 230 310. Open 9am–5pm year-old black pine forest with
back to the 13th century and daily. & = trees up to 50 m (165 ft) tall.
decorative 16th-century crosses
painstakingly carved with
miniature biblical scenes.
Next to the monastery is
Biljarda, a castle-like, single-storey
palace, built in 1838 for Petar II
Petrović Njegoš. Surrounded by
a wall with towers, the palace
now functions as the Njegoš
Museum (Njegošev muzej),
where visitors can see many of
the king’s personal possessions,
including period furniture and
a billiard table.
Nearby is the Montenegrin
National History Museum
(Istorijski muzej Crne Gore),
housed in the Government
House (Zetski Dom), which was
built in 1910 to accommodate
government offices and the
national assembly. On the
ground floor is the History
Museum, which exhibits a vast
array of Turkish war trophies. The superb mountain range around Durmitor National Park
512 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
q Ostrog Monastery
Manastir Ostrog
Founded by St Basil in the 17th century, Ostrog
Monastery was built into a sheer cliff face high above the
Zeta river to guard it from the Ottomans. It comprises two
complexes: Lower Monastery, which houses the administra-
tive buildings, including the abbot’s residence, and the
Upper Monastery, which contains two cave-churches –
the Chapel of the Honourable Cross and the Church of
the Presentation of the Virgin Mary. Montenegro’s most
important place of pilgrimage, Ostrog has been associated
with many healing miracles, attracting Catholic, Christian
and Muslim pilgrims.
St Trinity Church
Part of the Lower Monastery
complex, St Trinity Church is over
200 years old. Its barrel-vaulted
interior is covered with intricate
frescoes in gold and turquoise,
which have been restored
over time.
. Upper Monastery
Completely rebuilt in the 1920s following a devastating
fire, the Upper Monastery provides accommodation for
Ostrog’s 15 monks. The narrow corridors are decorated
with lovely, colourful icons and mosaics.
Lower Monastery
Lower Monastery
The 18th-century Lower Monastery stands
beside St Trinity Church in the valley below
the Upper Monastery.
For hotels and restaurants see p517 and pp518–9
MONTENEGRO 513
. St Basil’s Relics
The Church of the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Presentation of the Virgin
Practical Information
Mary houses St Basil’s
40 km (25 miles) NW of
bones. Pilgrims start
Podgorica. Tel (020) 811 040.
gathering here from early
Open 7am–5pm daily.
in the morning, eager to
5 7am daily. 8 Note: The
catch a glimpse of the
Lower Monastery offers small
holy relics and in the hope
single-sex dorm rooms, while
of witnessing a miracle.
the Upper Monastery offers free
accomodation for pilgrims in
the courtyard for a maximum
of three days.
Transport
@ from Podgorica.
St Basil’s Relics
St Basil
One of the Orthodox Church’s
most revered saints, St Basil
founded the Ostrog Monastery
in 1667 and remained here
until his death in 1671. It was
at Ostrog that he forged his
reputation as a miracle-worker
– a healer of the physically and
mentally afflicted. The saint
also assisted in the renovation Vaulted Candle Room
of numerous monasteries, a Hundreds of flickering votive candles
Portrait of St Basil, patron saint practice forbidden by the fill the atmospheric vaulted Candle
of Ostrog Turkish rulers of the time. Room; its frescoes are barely visible
beneath the soot.
514 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
DIRECTORY
Documentation Visitor Health and Ryanair
Council of Europe
Information Security ∑ ryanair.com
Novaka Miloševa 6, National Tourism As Mediph Arriving by Sea
Podgorica. Organization of Slobode 4, Podgorica.
Tel (020) 230 819. Montenegro Tel (020) 231 800. Montenegro Lines
Rimski trg 47, Vektra ∑ montenegrolines.
Embassies Kbc net
81000 Podgorica. Podgorica bb, Podgorica.
Croatia Tel (020) 235 155. Tel (020) 412 412. Rail Travel
Vladimira Četkovića 2, ∑ montenegro.travel
Podgorica. Arriving by Air Montenegro Railways
In Your Pocket
Tel (020) 269 760. ∑ zcg-prevoz.me
∑ inyourpocket.com Adria Airways
United Kingdom ∑ adria.si Travelling by Car
Ulcinjska 8, Podgorica. Emergency
Air Serbia Delta
Tel (020) 618 010. Numbers
∑ airserbia.com ∑ rentacar-delta.com
∑ gov.uk/government/
Ambulance Croatia Airlines
world/montenegro Meridian
Tel 124. ∑ croatiaairlines.com
United States ∑ meridian-rentacar.
Ljubljanska bb, Podgorica. Fire Montenegro com
Tel (020) 225 417. Tel 123. Airlines
∑ podgorica. Police ∑ montenegroairlines.
usembassy.gov Tel 122. com
516 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Podgorica Rest of Montenegro high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hotel Evropa € BAR: Hotel Princess €€€ € under €75
B&B Resort €€ €75 to €150
€€€ over €150
Orahovoačka 16, 81000 Jovana Tomaševića 59, 85000
Tel (020) 623 444 Tel (030) 300 100
∑ hotelevropa.co.me ∑ hotelprincess.me This atmospheric hostel, located
Many en suites at this pleasant Located on a superb beach, this in a restored medieval building,
B&B have a sloping attic ceiling. 4-star resort hotel has spacious offers dorms, private doubles and
and well-equipped rooms, triples and a relaxing café-bar.
Montenegro Hostel € swimming pool and tennis courts.
Hostel KOTOR: Cattaro €€
Đečevica 25, 81000 BUDVA: Astoria €€ Historic
Tel 69 039 751 Boutique Stari Grad 232, 85330
∑ montenegrohostel.com Njegoševa 4, Stari Grad 85310 Tel (032) 311 000
Conveniently located for bus and Tel (033) 451 110 ∑ cattarohotel.com
train, Montenegro has comfortable ∑ budva.astoriamontenegro.com Occupying what was once the
social areas, doubles and dorms. Chic, intimate hotel with a Rector's Palace, Old Town Hall and
fantastic location within the walls Town Guard, this 4-star has sea
Bojatours €€ of the Old Town. Elegantly battle pictures adorning its walls.
Value furnished rooms with superb sea
Kralja Nikole 10, 81000 views. KOTOR: Vardar €€€
Tel (020) 623 349 Boutique
∑ bojatours.me BUDVA: Šajo €€€ Stari Grad 476, 85 330
Elegant rooms with parquet Resort Tel (032) 325 084
floors, floral rugs and a minibar. Jadranski put bb, 85310 ∑ hotelvardar.com
Tel 86 460 243 Intimate hotel combining antique
Hotel Kerber €€ ∑ sajohotel.com stonework and modern facilities.
Value With high standards of service
Novaka Miloševa 6, 81000 Šajo offers plentiful facilities TIVAT: Pine Hotel €€
Tel (020) 405 405 that include a sauna, gym and Resort
∑ hotelkerber.me pleasant garden restaurant. Obala Pine bb, 85320
Well-equipped, bright, clean Tel (032) 671 255
rooms above a shopping centre. CETINJE: Sport In € ∑ htpmimoza.me
Budget The aptly named Pine Hotel is
Obilića bb, 81250 located on a seafront lined with
DK Choice Tel (041) 234 630 pine trees, the large terrace of its
Hotel Podgorica €€€ ∑ hotel-sportin-cetinje. cafe–restaurant facing the sea.
Luxury host22.com Prim and comfortable rooms.
Svetlane Kane Radević 1, 81000 Sparsely furnished neat
Tel (020) 402 500 en suites as well as triples ULCINJ: Velika Plaža €
∑ hotelpodgorica.co.me and quads in a pre-World War I Resort
Built in the 1960s, this stunning stone building. Velika Plaža bb, 85360
hotel on the riverbank, blends Tel (030) 431 131
modern architecture with the KOTOR: Old Town Hostel € ∑ velikaplaza.com
natural environment. Rooms Hostel Located near the beach, Velika
Stylish furnishings and some Stari Grad 284, 85339 Plaza is a pleasant resort that
have a terrace facing the river. Tel (032) 325 317 offers a choice of hotel rooms
∑ hostel-kotor.me and self-catering bungalows.
CETINJE: Kole €€
International
Crnogorskih Junaka 12, 81250
Tel 69 035 716
Just outside the Old Town, this
smart restaurant with a big
outdoor terrace, provides quality
platters of grilled and roast
meats as well as Adriatic fish.
Vast wine list.
CETINJE: Vinoteka €€
International
Njegoševa 103, 81250
Tel (041) 679 936
Local cheeses and hams
Tall palms trees outside Hotel Mogren, Budva together with steak, pasta
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 519
SERBIA
Lying at the crossroads of Europe, Serbia’s history goes back to the Neolithic
era. Settled by Slavs in the 6th century, the country was home to a thriving
civilization in the Middle Ages, and many of the surviving churches and
monasteries from the period are UNESCO-protected today. Serbia’s natural
forests, pristine mountain lakes and karst rock formations add to its stunning
natural beauty.
View of the 15th-century Nebojša Kula on the Sava river, Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade
Famous townhall of Subotica town, Serbia.
522 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Exploring Serbia
Serbia’s lively capital, Belgrade, stands at the centre
of the country’s transport network. Beyond the capital
are a number of impressive cultural monuments as
well as picturesque towns. North of Belgrade are the
flatlands of Vojvodina, home to the city of Novi Sad
and its riverside fortress as well as the border town
of Subotica, while to the south are the Sopoćani
and Studenica monasteries. Travelling by bus is the
preferred choice of transportation; trains are crowded
and can get delayed.
3 Subotica Bezdan
7 Ada
A1
4 Despotovac Sombor
Tisa
5 Studenica Monastery
6 Niš Srbobran
CROATIA Bač Zrenjanin
7 Novi Pazar
Bačka
8 Sopoćani Monastery Palanka Novi Sad
Danube Plandište
Ruma
A1
Batajnica Uljma
21
A3 ROMANIA
Šabac BELGRADE
Sava
19
Požarevac Kladovo
Loznica
22
24 Kučevo
Lajkovac Mladenovac
4 Petrovac Klokočevac
BOSNIA
D Valjevo
AND Ljig Res
ava Negotin
rin
HERZEGOVINA
21
a
Kragujevac Despotovac
0 kilometres 75
Užice Čačak
Paraćin 5
0 miles 75 5 Zaječar
Studenica BULGARIA
Arilje
25
Monastery
A1
Priboj Knjaževac
5
22
Kruševac
Prijepolje Kapaonik Niš Nis
Raška
av
Prokuplje
a
Pirot
Novi Pazar Kuršumlija
8
Sopoćani Dimitrovgrad
Monastery Leskovac
MONTENEGRO Devil’s Grdelica
Town
KOSOVO Vladičin Han
A1
Vranje
Bujanovac
MACEDONIA
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway
The highly revered Studenica Monastery, above the Raška valley International border
1 Belgrade
The capital of Serbia since 1840, Belgrade, today
with a population of approximately 1.8 million
CA
people, has been a site of strategic importance for RA
DU
a succession of imperial rulers. Over the second ŠA
NA
half of the 19th century it gradually took on the
appearance of a modern European metropolis,
B U L E VAR
K A L EM EG D A N
although the magnificent Kalemegdan Fortress PA R K
VOJ
Kalemegdan Park is the Old Town (Stari grad),
VOD
with remnants from Ottoman times. Today, Knez
E B
Mihailova is the centre of social and commercial
OJ
life in the city. A long, pedestrianized street lined
O
STARI
V
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with handsome 19th-century buildings, it is busy
A
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and night. RI
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Sights at a Glance
ĆE
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1 Kalemegdan Fortress
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pp526–7
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7 Skadarlija
8 St Mark’s Church Brankov
BRANKO
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Major sight / Place of interest MAR
q St Sava’s Church KRALJEVIĆ A
KA
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e Zemun Motorway
RA
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Major road
H
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Stari
Savski TELEZNIČKA
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Railway
Bus
Station
Belgrade
Central
Getting Around
Central Belgrade is easily explored
on foot, with the lively Knez Mihailova
serving as the main route from the
city centre to the Kalemegdan Fortress.
Attractions outside the city centre can
be reached by tram, bus or trolleybus.
Taxis are reasonably priced, although
those booked in advance (hotel recep-
tionists can make the call) are cheaper
than those flagged down on the
street. Driving in the city can be
stressful due to heavy traffic, bad
Intricate stonework detail, Fresco Gallery roads and limited parking.
Danube
Greater Belgrade
13
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1 Kalemegdan Fortress
Kalemegdanska tvrđava
Dominating the confluence of the Sava and Danube
rivers, the Kalemegdan Fortress (kale meaning “fortress”
and meydan meaning “field”) was one of the most
Nebojša Kula
fought-over strategic points in South Eastern Europe.
It was first settled by the Celts, then refortified by
Serbia’s medieval rulers and expanded during the
Ottoman and Austrian occupations, evolving into an
extensive complex of buildings blending various
architectural styles. Today, it is Belgrade’s most popular
park, offering fine views of the Danube from its bastions.
Nebojša Kula
Also known as the
“daredevil tower”, this
15th-century hexagonal
structure was used
as a dungeon under
the Ottomans.
. The Victor
One of the best-known
works by the Croat sculptor
Ivan Meštrović (see p471),
The Victor (Pobednik)
was erected in 1928
to honour the tenth
anniversary of the
end of World War I.
Military Museum
Built in 1929, the Military
Museum resembles a
medieval fortress. Tanks,
cannons and World
War II machinery
are on display.
For hotels and restaurants see p539 and pp540–41
BELGRADE 527
Transport
@
. Zindan Gate
This 15th-century
fortified gate was used as
a zindan (dungeon) by
the Ottomans. There are
good views of the
Danube from its two
barrel-like towers.
KEY
Ivan Meštrović’s
Memorial to France
Meštrović’s sculpture, which
depicts a bathing figure, was
built in honour of the French
troops who played a major role
in liberating Serbia in 1918.
528 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
2 Fresco Gallery
Galerija fresaka
Cara Uroša 20. Map D2. Tel (011) 262
1491. Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed &
Fri, noon–8pm Thu & Sat, 10am–2pm
Sun. &
5 Palace of Princess
Ljubica
Konak Kneginje Ljubice
Kneza Sime Markovića 8. Map C3.
Tel (011) 263 8264. Open 11am–5pm
Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am–6pm Thu,
11am–8pm Sat, 10am–4pm Sun. &
8 St Mark’s Church
Crkva Svetog marka
Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17.
Map E4. Tel (011) 323 1940. @ 25, 26,
27, 32. 5
E Museum of Vojvodina
Dunavska 35. Tel (021) 420 566.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ muzejvojvodine.org.rs
Located in the pedestrian zone,
this museum (Muzej Vojvodine)
displays Neolithic pottery and
tools unearthed in the region.
There is also a wealth of finds
from the Roman city of Sirmium
(now Sremska Mitrovica), just
west of Novi Sad, which served
as Emperor Galerius’s capital city
in the late 3rd century. The
ethnographic diversity of
Freedom Square, the spacious hub of Novi Sad Vojvodina emerges through a
colourful display of Serb,
2 Novi Sad monarchy. Looming over the Hungarian and Slovak cos-
74 km (46 miles) N of Belgrade.
eastern end of the square is the tumes. There are also painted
* 300,000. £ @ n Bulevar Neo-Gothic St Mary’s Cathedral wooden chests and brightly
Mihajla Pupina 9, (021) 421 811; Ulica (crkva sv Marije), the city’s main decorated ceramics in a range
Modene 1, (021) 661 7343. _ EXIT Catholic church and the of traditional folk designs.
Festival (Jul). ∑ turizamns.rs principal venue for Hungarian
and Croatian-speaking masses. P Petrovaradin Fortress
On the north shore of the The church’s plain interior Petrovaradinska tvrđava.
Danube river, Novi Sad is the stands in remarkable contrast Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.
administrative centre of the to its colourful stained-glass City Museum: Tel (021) 643 3145.
Vojvodina region. The town owes windows, made by Czech and 8 9am–5pm (except Mon).
its existence to the strategically Hungarian masters. ∑ museumns.rs
located Petrovaradin Fortress on Stretching northeast from A short walk east of central
the south bank of the river. Forti- the cathedral, Zmaj Jovina Novi Sad, Petrovaradin
fied since Roman times, Petro- ulica is distinguished by Fortress (Petrovaradinska
varadin was turned into an several two-storey build- tvrđava) stretches along
impregnable garrison by the ings painted in pastel hues the high ground on the
Austrians in the 18th century, of yellow, ochre and south bank of the Danube
and the civilian settlement of turquoise. At the end river. Occupied first by the
Novi Sad grew up by its side. of the street stands the Romans, then medieval
Largely populated by Serbs 19th-century Bishop’s St Mary’s Hungarians and Ottoman
fleeing from the Ottoman Palace, designed by Cathedral Turks, the fortress itself
Empire, the town soon became Vladimir Nikolić in a variety dates from the arrival of
a major centre of Serbian of architectural styles. Just around the Austrians in 1692. Eager to
religion, culture and learning. the corner is the Orthodox consolidate their rule over
The first ever Serbian-language Church of St George, dating from Central Europe, they saw
theatre was founded here in 1742, which features a Rococo Petrovaradin as the focal point of
1861, and the key literary and iconostasis and vivacious Art their southern defences and set
cultural society, Matica Srpska, Nouveau stained-glass windows about building a fortress so
moved here from Budapest in by local artist Paja Jovanović. formidable that the Ottomans
1864. Modern Novi Sad houses would be dissuaded from ever
the cultural institutions of taking up arms against Austria
Vojvodina’s Hungarian, Slovak, again. The resulting stronghold
Romanian and Rusyn (a comprised a star-shaped pattern
different ethnic group to the of bastions and trenches, with
Russians) communities. over 15 km (9 miles) of under-
ground galleries to house
P Pedestrian Zone 30,000 defending troops.
A cluster of pedestrianized Positioned high above the
streets constitutes the centre of river, the central citadel offers
Novi Sad. At their heart is the magnificent views of Novi
Freedom Square (trg Slobode), Sad from its ramparts. Inside,
dominated by Ivan Meštrović’s many of the barrack blocks
statue of Svetozar Miletić, a have now been converted
19th-century politician and into artists’ workshops and
lawyer who fought for the rights Monument to Serbian statesman Svetozar galleries, with atmospheric
of Serbs within the Habsburg Miletić at Freedom Square cafés and restaurants.
For hotels and restaurants see p539 and pp540–41
SERBIA 533
View of Petrovaradin Fortress across the Danube river, Novi Sad Environs
Located 8 km (5 miles) east of
Petrovardin’s former arsenal Komor and Jakab’s flamboyant Subotica, the lakeside settle-
(topovnjača) is now occupied architectural style. Mixing ment of Palić was developed
by the City Museum (Gradski red brick with green and yellow as a health resort in the mid-
muzej), home to a fine collect- tiling and topped with a cluster 19th century, and is now a
ion of period furnishings, of plump domes, it is an popular spot for sunbathing
porcelain and fine arts. Guided extraordinarily striking building. and swimming in summer.
tours of the underground Set in one corner of the Here, too, is an ensemble of
galleries (podzemne vojne synagogue enclosure is a mon- buildings designed by Komor
galerije) offer the chance to ument honouring Subotica’s and Jakab, blending Art
explore a subterranean warren 4,000-strong Jewish population, Nouveau style with Hungarian
of gun positions and transported to Nazi death folk motifs. A cone-shaped
ammunition dumps. camps in July 1944. vodotoranj (water tower),
Every July, Petrovaradin The nearby Municipal attached to a gateway of the
becomes the venue for the Museum (Gradski muzej) lakeside park, is among them.
famous EXIT Festival (see p538), houses a colourful ethnogra- The town’s most distinctive
a four-day celebration of rock phic collection rich in traditional building, however, is the
and pop that draws between Hungarian and Croatian Womens’ Beach (Ženski štrand),
150,000 and 190,000 revellers costumes, and a display of an all-timber waterside pavilion
from all over Europe. African folk artifacts collected resembling Transylvanian
by famous local explorer Oskar village huts.
Vojnić. East of the main square,
3 Subotica the pedestrianized Korzo is E Municipal Museum
full of fine buildings from the trg Sinagoge 3. Tel (024) 555 128.
178 km (111 miles) N of Belgrade.
pre-World War I period. Most Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. &
* 150,000. £ @ n trg Slobode 1,
(024) 670 350. _ Palić Film Festival remarkable is the richly deco- E Likovni Susret Gallery
(mid-Jul). ∑ visitsubotica.rs rated apartment house at No. 4. Park Ferenca Rajhla 5. Tel (024) 553
The beehive symbol on its 725. Open 8am–7pm Mon–Fri,
Located close to the Hungarian façade reveals its former 9am–1pm Sat.
frontier, Subotica is a typical
multicultural border town
with a mixed community of
Hungarians, Serbs and Croats.
First documented in the late
14th century as a free-trading
post, the town is known for its
Art Nouveau architecture, of
which the monumental Town
Hall (Gradska kuća) on the
main square is an outstanding
example. Designed in 1908 by
architects Marcell Komor and
Dezső Jakab, it is rich in
Hungarian folk motifs, with
colourfully patterned roof tiles,
oriole windows and decorative
floral designs adorning
the façade.
North of the main square, at
Synaogue square (trg Sinagoge)
stands Subotica’s Synagogue
(Sinagoga), which showcases Subotica’s main square, graced by Art Nouveau buildings
534 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
5 Studenica
Monastery
135 km (84 miles) S of Belgrade. Tel (036)
536 050. @ from Belgrade. Open 5am–
8pm daily. 5 ∑ manastirstudenica.rs
Well-preserved complex of the Studenica Monastery, of special significance to the Serbian Orthodox faith
For hotels and restaurants see p539 and pp540–41
SERBIA 535
Environs
Djavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town),
about 90 km (56 miles) west of
Niš, is so named for 202 eerie
rock formations caused by
centuries of erosion.
P Tower of Skulls
Bulevar Dr Zorana Đinđica. Tel 822
2228. Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Equestrian monument to the Liberation St Peter’s Church in Novi Pazar, the oldest
of 1878, Niš 7 Novi Pazar church in Serbia
270 km (168 miles) S of Belgrade.
6 Niš * 120,000. @ n 28 Novembar 27,
Environs
Around 25 km (16 miles) north-
235 km (146 miles) SE of Belgrade. (020) 338 030. ∑ tonps.rs
* 250,000. £ @ n Voždova 7 east of Novi Pazar, Kopaonik
(018) 523 118. ∑ visitnis.com Situated in mountainous territory National Park lies in a pictur-
in southwest Serbia, Novi Pazar esque plateau surrounded by
The town of Niš has an ancient was founded in the mid-15th high mountain peaks, and is
pedigree. Believed to be the century as a way-station on the popular with skiers and hikers.
birthplace of Emperor Constan- Dubrovnik-Constantinople
tine the Great, it was also an caravan route. The town centre
important Roman trading post. still has some Ottoman-era 8 Sopoćani
Conquered by the Ottomans in buildings and plenty of mosques. Monastery
1386, Niš became a part of the Highlights include the many- 287 km (178 miles) S of Belgrade.
modern Serbian state in 1878. domed Isa Beg Hammam (Isa- @ from Novi Pazar.
Today it is Serbia’s third begov hamam), a 15th-
largest city and centres century bath house Located on a hill surrounded by
around the pedes- beside the Raška river. mountains, the monastery of
trianized Kralja Milana North of the river is the Sopoćani was founded in 1263
Square, where there is Lejlek Mosque, built a by King Uroš I, the grandson of
an equestrian monu- century later, with its Stefan Nemanja. The monastery
ment dedicated to the arched portico over- church is a three-aisled
liberators of 1878. looked by a minaret. Romanesque basilica made
North of the square, a The area around from blocks of stone. The nave is
bridge leads across the Detail from the Tower Novi Pazar was once covered with frescoes painted
Nišava river towards the of Skulls the heartland of the by masters from Constantinople,
18th-century Tvrđava medieval Serbian state with a fine Dormition of the
(Fortress) built by the Ottoman and is dotted with ancient Virgin filling the west wall. Also
Turks, which is now the town churches and monasteries. in the nave are the tombs of
park. Entered via the Istanbul North of the centre stands the Uroš I and his Venetian mother
Gate (Stambul Kapija), the park 9th-century St Peter’s Church Anna Dandolo. The narthex
contains some Ottoman (Petrova Crkva), the original seat contains more frescoes, with
buildings, including a domed of the bishops of Ras and the superb portraits of Uroš and his
bath house and the 15th-cen- oldest surviving church in Serbia. son Dragutin.
tury Mosque of Bali Beg, which
now serves as an art gallery.
South of the main square, the
Copper-workers’ Alley (Kazandžijsko
Sokače) preserves some 19th-
century craft workshops. About
3 km (2 miles) east of the centre
stands the Tower of Skulls (Ćele
Kula), a gruesome monument
dedicated to the origins of the
Serbian Uprising of 1809, when
insurgents blew themselves up
to avoid capture by the Turks. The
Ottomans built a tower studded
with the victims’ heads to serve Evocative fresco of Dormition of the Virgin, Sopoćani Monastery
536 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Belgrade Prices are based on one night’s stay
in high season for a standard double
room, inclusive of service charges
Green Studio Hostel and taxes.
Hostel Map C4 under 7,500 din
Karađorđeva 61, 11000 7,500–15,000 din
over 15,000 din
Tel (011) 218 5943
∑ greenstudiohostel.com
Mix of dorm rooms, self-contained This conveniently located
doubles and triples opposite hotel has comfortable rooms,
Belgrade's train and bus stations. each with Internet access
and reasonable desk space.
Palace Hotel
Historic Map C3 NOVI SAD: Hostel Sova
Topličin venac 23, 11000 Imposing façade of Square Nine Hostel
Tel (011) 218 5585 in Belgrade Ilije Ognjanovića 26, 21000
∑ palacehotel.co.rs Tel (021) 661 5230
Centrally located elegant hotel ∑ hostelsova.com
with rooms decorated in mood- DK Choice En suite double rooms
enhancing creams and reds. Le Petit Piaf and multi-bed dorms in an
Boutique Map E3 apartment building near Novi
Majestic Skadarska 34, 11000 Sad's pedestrianized centre.
Historic Map D3 Tel (011) 303 5252
Obilićev venac 28, 11000 ∑ petitpiaf.com NOVI SAD: Ile de France
Tel (011) 328 5777 Charming hotel located in the B&B
∑ majestic.rs restaurant-packed Skadarlija Cara Dušana 41, 21000
Dating from the 1930s, the district, just round the corner Tel (021) 636 2382
hotel retains a few Art Deco from the pubs of Strahinjića bana. ∑ iledefrance.co.rs
touches. Good mid-range Rooms are decorated in warm Friendly place with bright rooms
choice near the cultural and colours and come with TV, safe that have wooden floors and
shopping spots. and Internet access. The hotel also modern bathrooms. The owner
offers smart two-person suites is French-speaking.
Moskva with living room and kitchenette.
Historic Map D4 NOVI SAD: Leopold I
Terazije 20, 11000 Historic
Tel (011) 364 2071 Square Nine Petrovaradinska tvrđava bb, 21000
∑ hotelmoskva.rs Boutique Map D2 Tel (021) 488 7878
Landmark hotel blending Art Studentski trg 9, 11000 ∑ leopoldns.com
Nouveau details with green Tel (011) 333 3500 Situated in the heart of the
Gothic spires, tastefully combines ∑ squarenine.rs Petrovaradin Fortress, Leopold I
old-style furnishings and modern Centrally located boutique hotel comes with plush rooms and
fittings in its rooms. with elegant rooms, swanky bags of period atmosphere.
bathrooms and spa centre.
Travelling Actor SUBOTICA: Hotel Gloria
B&B Map D2 Business
Gospodar Jevremova 65, 11000 Dimitrija Tucovića 2, 24000
Tel (011) 323 4156 Rest of Serbia Tel (024) 672 010
∑ travellingactor.rs ∑ hotelgloriasubotica.com
Rooms are small but comfortable NIŠ: My Place Intimate hotel just off the
and well-equipped in this intimate Boutique main square offering chic
B&B located in the picturesque Kej 29. Decembar bb, 18000 coffee-and-crimson rooms
Skadarlija district. Tel (018) 525 555 each with a minibar, desk
∑ hotelmyplace.com and free Wi-Fi access.
Hyatt Regency Striking riverside building
Luxury with crisp rooms featuring SUBOTICA: Hotel Patria
Milentija Popovića 5, 11070 a Jacuzzi. Business
Tel (011) 301 1234 Đure Đakovića 1a, 24000
∑ belgrade.regency.hyatt.com NOVI PAZAR: Hotel Tadž Tel (024) 552 320
Expect high levels of comfort Business ∑ hotelpatria.rs
and service at this hotel that Rifata Đurđevića 79, 36300 Centrally located 6-storey hotel
is located amid the modern Tel (020) 311 904 with tastefully furnished rooms
blocks of Novi Beograd. ∑ hoteltadznd.com and modern bathrooms.
For map references see pp524–5
540 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Zaplet
International
Kajmakčalanska 2, 11000
Tel (011) 240 4142
With atmospheric lighting and
loud music, this restaurant is
popular with the affluent and
fashionable. Serves global fare,
from Serbian grilled snacks to
modern European fusion.
Rest of Serbia
NIŠ: Kafana Sinđelić
Serbian
Trg republike bb, 18000
Tel (018) 512 548
Comfortable restaurant in a
19th-century house with a big Outdoor seating at Zak in Novi Sad
garden. Its meat-heavy menu
includes lamb, steaks and a serving an imaginative range of SUBOTICA: Majkin Salaš
delicious mućkalica (spicy stew). large-size pizzas. Plenty of choice International
for vegetarians. Atile Jožefa 79, Palić 24413
NIŠ: Nišlijska Mehana Tel (024) 753 276
Balkan Grill NOVI SAD: Pivnica Gusan Traditional paprika-flavoured
Prvomajska 49, 18000 Balkan Grill stews served in an old-style
Tel (018) 511 111 Zmaj Jovina 4, 21000 farmstead interior filled with
One of the liveliest places for a Tel (021) 425 570 vintage furniture, or in the
night out in Niš, this restaurant In the basement of what once courtyard with a vine trellis.
features folksy tableware, was a cinema theatre, this
traditional wallhangings and enjoyable beer hall serves SUBOTICA: Bosscaffe
the Serbian repertoire of grilled hearty, simple grilled-meat International
meat dishes. dishes and substantial Matije Korvina 7–8, 24000
salads. Tel 065 655 1111
NIŠ: Stara Srbija Popular café–restaurant inside
Balkan Grill NOVI SAD: Bela Lađa a glass-walled pavilion. Serves
Trg republike 12, 18000 International good pizzas, decent steaks and
Tel (018) 521 902 Kisačka 21, 21000 fish, alongside a tempting array
Popular main-square eatery Tel (021) 661 6594 of cakes and pastries.
serving grilled mincemeat snacks Charmingly old-fashioned
and skewer kebabs, alongside restaurant serving hearty SUBOTICA: Gostiona
some more sustantial veal, fish grilled-meat dishes with all the Gurinović
and steak dishes. trimmings. There is a strong list Serbian
of wines from southeastern Bajski put 32, 24000
NOVI PAZAR: Ras Europe as well as an excellent Tel (024) 554 934 Closed Sun
Serbian choice of Serbian brandies. A 10-minute walk from the main
Novi Pazar bb, 36300 square, this folksy place with a
Tel (020) 361 578 NOVI SAD: Plava Frajla beautiful garden offers quality
Just outside town on the road to International north-Serbian cuisine, with
Tutin, Ras offers grilled meats Sutjeska 2, 21000 goulash, roast lamb and duck,
and locally caught trout in folksy Tel (021) 613 675 and local wines to wash it down.
wooden buildings surrounded Tucked into the side of
by a park. a large shopping centre,
the eccentrically-decorated DK Choice
NOVI SAD: Astal Saren "Blue Lady" features checked SUBOTICA: Riblja Čarda
Balkan Grill tablecloths and chairs Seafood
Mite Ružića 2, 21000 hanging from the ceiling. Obala Lajoša Vermeša,
Tel (021) 528 004 The menu covers everything Palić, 24413
Traditional grilled-meat and from Serbian grilled-meat Tel (024) 755 040
sausage dishes served in dishes to Hungarian- Popular out-of-town
generous portions, over a influenced goulashes. destination near the shore of
checked-tablecloth affair in lake Palić, ideal for sampling
what looks like a rustic living NOVI SAD: Zak local fish dishes. The house
room setting. International speciality, riblji paprikašš (fish
Šafarikova 6, 21000 stew rich in paprika), is usually
NOVI SAD: Kuća Mala Tel (021) 447 565 served with locally made pasta
Italian European–Asian fusion similar to tagliatelle. Dine in
Laze Telečkog 4, 21000 cuisine featuring plenty of the pretty dining room with
Tel (021) 422 728 seafood and some exquisite exposed timbers, or outdoors
An intimate, homely place with desserts, served in a chic on the terrace facing the lake.
touches of surreal design inside, interior with live piano music.
SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE 543
ROMANIA
Although the country is unlikely ever to disassociate itself from the myth of Dracula,
in recent years Romania has certainly managed to shake off its Communist-era
image of grey uniformity. Beyond its prettily restored historic towns and cities
lie breathtaking mountains and scenes of rural tranquillity that have changed
little for generations.
Exploring Romania
With plenty of historic sites, Bucharest offers a rich
taste of Romanian culture. Just north of the capital, in
the foothills of the mighty Carpathian Mountains, are the
medieval town of Braşov and Bran Castle, while further
north, Suceava makes a good base for the Bucovina
Monasteries Tour. The delightful towns of Sighişoara and
Sibiu lie to the southwest the Carpathians. An extensive
yet slow network of railways connects many main towns
and Bucharest has a bus service to most towns and
villages across the country. The seaside resorts are best
reached by bus or taxi from Constanţa.
The scenic tree-lined drive to Peleş Castle,
Sights at a Glance southeastern Transylvania
1 Bucharest pp546–54 9 Târgu Mureş
2 Braşov 0 Cluj-Napoca pp564–5
3 Bran Castle pp556–7 q Bucovina Monasteries
4 Peleş Castle pp558–9 Tour p566
5 Curtea de Argeş w Suceava
6 Sibiu e Constanţa
7 Timişoara r Danube Delta
8 Sighişoara pp562–3
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway
International border Carved portal, Old Court Church, Bucharest
For keys to symbols see back flap
546 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
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Unirii
S TO
PIAŢA
UNIRII roads during the day, making travelling
BULEVAR DUL UNIRII
by car, taxi or bus tortuously slow. Sites of
interest are spread widely across the city,
so rather than walk it is a good idea to
use the comprehensive metro system,
which is clean, cheap and safe. However,
metro maps and signs can be confusing.
Taxis are cheap, but visitors should be
wary of being overcharged.
1 Palace of Parliament
Palatul Parlamentului
Towering over the western end of Bulevardul Unirii, the
Palace of Parliament is the second-largest administrative
building in the world, next to the Pentagon. Covering
an area of 33 ha (82 acres), this colossal structure has
15 floors, 5 of which are underground. President Nicolae
Ceauşescu ordered its construction in 1983, clearing
a large area of historic Bucharest to make way for the
The grand chandelier in the Palace Theatre
project. The Romanian government continued the
project after his death and in 1997 moved the Chamber
of Deputies there, followed by the Senate in 2005.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Calea 13 Septembrie 1.
Map C5. n (021) 311 3611.
Open 10am–4pm daily. & 8
- = ∑ cdep.ro The National
Museum of Contemporary Art:
Tel (021) 318 9137.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
& ∑ mnac.ro
Transport
. Unification Hall (Unirii Hall)
@ 136, 385.
The largest room in the building, this hall has walls 15 m (49 ft) high,
ornate marble columns and an immense glass ceiling. The two marble
panels at either end of the room were intended to contain portraits of
Nicolae and his wife Elena.
. Palace Theatre
(Sala CA Rosetti)
Marble pillars, ornate
balconies and a gigantic
central chandelier adorn
this circular theatre. However, it
has only been used for
meetings because it
lacks a backstage area.
9 Royal Palace
and National
Art Museum
Palatul Regal şi Muzeul
Naţional de Arta
Calea Victoriei 49–53. Map D3.
Tel (021) 313 3030. @ 178. Open
May–Sep: 11am–7pm Wed–Sun; Oct–
Apr: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 =
∑ mnar.arts.ro
An imperial residence since
the mid-19th century, the
Royal Palace has undergone
several renovations during
its lifetime. King Carol I (see
p558) was responsible for
much of the current layout,
redesigned in 1906. Further
reconstruction took place
after a catastrophic fire in Transylvanian biblical icons on stained glass, Museum of Art Collections
1926 and heavy bombing in
World War II. Its location next 0 Museum of Art 19th-century French furniture
to Revolution Square led to Collections and tapestries.
further damage from gunfire Muzeul Colecţiilor de Arta
in December 1989.
Calea Victoriei 111. Map D3. Tel (021)
Housed in the north wing
212 9641. @ Open May–Sep:
q Storck Museum
of the palace, the National Art Muzeul de Arta Frederic Storck şi
11am–7pm Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr:
Museum was opened in 1950 Cecilia Cutescu-Storck
10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
to house the royal family’s art
Str V Alecsandri 16. Map D2. @
collection. It closed in 1989 Housed in a Neo-Classical
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
following the revolution when mansion with a surprisingly
as many as 1,000 artworks were unassuming interior, the Built in 1913 by sculptor
damaged, but reopened after Museum of Art Collections and architect Frederick
complete renovation. The has an intriguing variety of Storck, this museum contains
Gallery of Romanian Art includes exhibits, of which the dazzling numerous works of art created
sculptures by world-renowned 17th-century gilt icon of Jesus or collected by Storck and his
sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi Christ is the undisputed high- wife Cecilia. Delightful murals
and paintings by artist Nicolae light. An impressive with floral and
Grigorescu. The European Art range of Romanian feminine motifs
Gallery, spread over 15 rooms, artwork by masters cover the walls of
boasts works by masters such as such as Nicolae the central rooms,
Rubens, Rembrandt, El Greco, Grigorescu, Ştefan which took Cecilia
Tintoretto and Monet. Luchian and Nicolae four years to paint.
Tonitza occupies the Other pictures by
ground floor. On the Cecilia include
first floor, a display of Carpet, Museum of Art seascapes painted
traditional glass Collections at the family villa
Transylvanian icons, in Balchik (now in
remark able for their bright Bulgaria), portraits and still
colours and simplicity, can be lifes. Particularly impressive
seen alongside the Oriental among Storck’s sculptures,
collection, comprising which are exhibited next to
15th-century Chinese porce- his wife’s work, are the bronze
lain, 19th-century Japanese pieces inspired by Rodin.
crockery, statues and a pretty Several rooms are furnished
wooden cupboard inlaid with with lovely ceramic stoves
mother-of-pearl, as well as decorated with floral and bird
Iranian ceramics and Turkish motifs painted by Karl Storck,
rugs. The same floor has a Frederick’s father, who was
selection of antique European the first Romanian teacher
treasures which includes of sculpture in the Fine Arts
Visitors at the Royal Palace and Austrian silver ware, colourful Academy of Bucharest. There
National Art Museum Bohemian crystal and is also a small exhibition of
For hotels and restaurants see p572 and p573
BUCHAREST 553
w Museum of the
Romanian Peasant
Muzeul Ţăranului Roman
Str Şoseaua Kiseleff 3. Map C1.
Tel (021) 317 9661. @ 300.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
∑ muzeultaranuluiroman.ro
Dianthus alpinus,
commonly known as
Alpine pinks, bloom
in late spring. They
can be found growing
above 2,000 m (6,561 ft)
in the Făgăraş
Alpine regions.
3 Bran Castle
Castelul Bran
Perched on a rocky bluff, Bran Castle was built in the 13th
century and first used as a defence against the Ottomans.
Although the ruler of Wallachia, Vlad Ţepeş, better known
as Dracula, never lived here, it is believed that he was briefly
imprisoned here by the Hungarians. In more recent times,
the castle was the favourite summer residence of Queen
Marie (granddaughter of Queen Victoria of England), who
refurbished the entire building and had electricity installed.
Known today as Dracula’s Castle, it is now a museum
dedicated to the history of the Romanian Royal Family.
KEY
Transport
@ from Braşov.
. Queen Marie’s
Bedroom
Decorated in Art Nouveau
style, the queen’s bedroom
contains several pieces
of furniture she commis-
sioned herself, including
a rosewood Italian
Baroque bed and an
armchair adorned with
carved vultures.
Secret Passages
Some of the
castle’s 60 rooms
are connected by
a network of under-
ground passages,
which were used
either for hasty
evacuations or to
bring in food supplies
in times of siege.
Râşnov Fortress
Situated halfway between the towns of Braşov and Bran, Râşnov Fortress overlooks the
small town of Râşnov from a hilltop. Founded in the 13th century by Teutonic knights,
the fortress served as a refuge for the people
of Râşnov during times of seige. The central
courtyard contains a 143-m (469-ft) deep
well, dug to supply drinking water to the
inhabitants. A museum within the complex
displays armour and various finds uncovered
during excavations, among them a skeleton
Râşnov Fortress sitting on a hilltop now encased beneath a glass floor.
558 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
4 Peleş Castle
Castelul Peleş
Statue of King
Carol I
A towering
statue of King
Carol I, by Italian
sculptor Raffa-
ello Romanelli,
overlooks
the park.
KEY
. Hall of Honour
The castle’s main entrance
incorporates a striking three-
storey display of Viennese walnut
carvings that decorate the spiral
staircase and arched balconies
overlooking the Reception
Hall. Light floods into the hall
from the 16-m (52-ft) high
sliding glass roof.
Library
Among the king’s collection of
over 10,000 books are 40 novels
written by Queen Elisabeth under
the pseudonym Carmen Sylva. One
of the beautifully carved book
cases conceals a secret passage
leading to the royal bedroom.
560 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
E History Museum
Str Mitropoliei nr 2. Tel (269) 218 143.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. =
∑ brukenthalmuseum.ro
R Evangelical Cathedral
Piaţa Huet 1. Open 9am–5pm Mon–
Sat, 11am–5pm Sun.
E Museum of Traditional
Folk Civilization
Calea Rasinari. Tel (0269) 242 599.
Open 10am–6pm (Winter: 9am–
The cobbled courtyard of the National Brukenthal Museum, Sibiu 5pm). ∑ muzeulastra.ro
7 Timişoara
347 km (216 miles) NW of Bucharest.
* 310,000. £ @ n Str Alba Iulia
2, (0256) 437 973.
8 Sighişoara
Perched high on a hill above the Târnava Mare river, Sighişoara
was founded in the 12th century by German merchants and
craftsmen who had been invited by the king of Hungary to settle
in the region and defend its borders. The settlement grew into a
major Transylvanian town but was almost abandoned following
a devastating fire in 1676. Most of the buildings today date
from the town’s subsequent rebuild. The Old Town is one of
Europe’s few remaining inhabited medieval citadels, and is now
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sentenced around it are a
number of towers, many of which belonged to the town guilds;
of the 14 towers originally built, 9 have survived. Clustered The Gothic Venetian House, at the corner of
behind the fortified walls is an ensemble of 17th-century build- Museum Square
ings whose fading façades enhance the citadel’s period charm.
murals inside the house,
discovered during renovations,
R Monastery Church depict a figure bearing
Piaţa Muzeului. Open daily. some resemblance to the
Originally part of a 13th- infamous ruler.
century Dominican monastery, The ground floor is now
this Gothic church (Biserica an interesting medieval-
Manastirii Dominicane) themed restaurant while
has been Lutheran since the first floor is home
1556. Its present appear- to the Museum of
ance dates back to the Weapons, which is
late 17th century, when closed on Mondays.
it was rebuilt following
the Great Fire; the Baroque P Venetian House
organ was installed in Piaţa Muzeului.
1680. Its interior walls Located on the corner
are decorated Sign outside of Museum Square
Symbolic wooden figures on the with 300-year-old Dracul’s House (Piaţa Muzeului), the
13th-century Clock Tower Anatolian rugs. Venetian House (Casa
Venetian) was once a mayoral
P Clock Tower P Vlad Dracul’s House residence. Built in the 16th
Piaţa Muzeului 1. Tel (265) 771 108. Str Cositorarilor 5. Tel (265) century, it is named for its
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. & = 771 596. Open 10am–3:30pm Venetian Gothic stone window
Built over the main gate in the Tue–Sun. 0 10am–11pm daily. frames, which were added
13th century, the Clock Tower Casa Vlad Dracul (Vlad during renovations in the 19th
(Turnul cu Ceas) is the dominant Dracula’s House) is said to be century. Today, the house is used
feature of the citadel. Designed the birthplace of Vlad Tepes, by the German Evangelical parish
as a defensive structure, its thick the Wallachian ruler who was and the German Democratic
lower stone walls made it notorious for his methods Forum, founded in 1989, which
difficult for enemies to attack. It of punishment and an inspira- represent the town’s remaining
housed the town council offices tion for Dracula. Some of the German residents.
until 1550. The fifth and sixth
floors, as well as the clock, were
added at the beginning of the
17th century. At midnight every
day one of seven wooden
figures, symbolizing day and
night, emerges from the clock
to face the town. The tower was
destroyed by the Great Fire of
1676 and rebuilt in subsequent
years. Today, it is occupied by
the History Museum and a small
Museum of Torture, which
includes among its exhibits a
ladder that was used to roast
people alive. Sighişoara Monastery Church seen across a cluster of rooftops
For hotels and restaurants see p572 and p573
ROMANIA 563
IHAI
3 Vlad Dracul’s House VITEA
OR
ST
ZUL
R IL
UI
NĂ
4 Venetian House
LUI
NUL
LA
Ă
STR
ZEU
R M
MP
T IO
5 Shoemakers’ Tower
TÂ
MU
ST
ADA
BAS
STR
6 Tailors’ Tower
STR
STR
Tailors' Tower
House on
7 Furriers’ Tower
MORII
N S
OL
Clock TR O
O Vlad
NT
SC
Dracul's CT
A Tower
R
R House PIAŢA A
LO
R
ST VI
ST
MUZEULUI AN
RI
Furriers’ GO
RA
Tower
S T R A D A T U R NU LU I
GA
TO
SI
CO
Butchers’
IE
Tower
R
BR
ST
Covered
EM
Staircase
EC
Church on Tinsmiths'
D
PIAŢA R
A
HERMANN
ST
OBERTH
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
R St Michael’s Church
Piaţa Unirii. 5
With a spire over 76 m
(249 ft) high, this Gothic
church (Biserica Sfântul
Mihail) towers over the city.
Its austere interior is adorned
with stained-glass windows
featuring a portrait of St
Michael, a graceful cream and
gilt altar and a superbly carved
Broad and attractive pedestrianized streets pulpit decorated with doves, Entrance to the Art Museum in the Bánffy
in Târgu Mureş angels and biblical characters. Palace, Unity Square
For hotels and restaurants see p572 and p573
ROMANIA 565
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
440 km (273 miles) NW of
Bucharest. * 305,600.
n B-dul Eroilor 6-8, (0264) 452
244. _ Transylvanian Film
Festival (Jun). ∑ visitcluj.ro
Transport
k 7km (4 miles) NE of centre.
£@
Cluj-Napoca
Synagogue
City Centre Railway and
Bus Stations
250 m (275 yards)
Airport
PIAŢA Market 7 km (4 miles)
STR
VICTORIEI
2 St Michael’s Church Hungarian I - DUL 1989
History SSA B
BRA
FER
Theatre
3 Art Museum
Museum of ADA Orthodox
STR
D IN
Transylvania Cathedral
Parc
4 Orthodox Cathedral PIAŢA
AN
Central Pharmacy
OR
S TRADA
Museum MA
N IU AVRAM N Ţ IL
OBA
D
National Theatre
AN St Michael's ILO R
ST R
S T R AD A H
AC
CO
O M PIAŢA PIAŢA
7 Botanical Gardens SS R
ST
IO U
RV
NU STEFAN
U UNIRII T IA CEL MARE
BRA
IN
RAT
Ethnographic A
P OC A IL IC
OR
Museum of NA M IH
IU
TIL Transylvania
AD
A
LNICEA
NU
M
O
STR KOGA PIAŢA
EA IHAIL
STR M
Babeş-Bolyai BABA NOVAC
L
STR
CA PIAŢA University
Reformed
AD A
L BLAGA
POTAISSA Church
OR CU
I C IL I AN
II
L IN S T R A D A AV R A M
Z
AC
STRA
E A TUR
AD
STR
ST RA DA A V I A
S TR AD A
DA B
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ILAŞ
EUR
BISE
TO
CU
PA S T
Cimitirul
RIC
D
A
0 yards 500 ES
CU
RTODO
Botanical
Gardens
XE
Marginea
3 Moldoviţa Solca
Rebuilt in 1532, the
painted walls here
incorporate references
to the encroaching Vatra Cacica
Ottoman Empire. Moldovitei
Key Frumosul
Tour route
Suceava
Minor road 30 km (19 miles)
Vama
Walking trail Gura
Railway route
Humorului
Frasin
2 Voronet
This fortified monastery was
built in 1488 to celebrate a
victory against the Turks. The
mural of The Last Judgement
on its southern wall is notable Tips for Drivers
for its skilful incorporation of
Starting point: Humor.
Moldavian folk motifs.
Length: 204 km (127 miles).
Getting there: Suceava is
1 Humor 440 km (273 miles) N of Bucharest
Founded in the 15th century 0 km 5 on the E85 Highway.
and rebuilt in 1530, the exterior The monasteries are generally
0 miles 5
walls of this small church feature open from 7am–5pm daily.
impressive murals.
w Suceava
440 km (273 miles) N of Bucharest.
* 107,000. £ @ n Str Stefan cel
Mare 23, (0230) 551 241.
and are operated with a Rail Travel and Târges Mureş. Minibuses
Telekom card sold at post Most international and domestic also leave for various destinations
offices such as the Bucharest trains arrive and depart from around the country from opposite
Main Post Office and at news- Bucharest’s Gara de Nord, which Gara de Nord. Tickets for local
paper kiosks. Mobile phones lies north of the centre. There buses, trams and trolleybuses
with roaming will function are three classes of Romanian can be bought at street kiosks
everywhere, but those visitors train – Intercity is the quickest and should be validated once on
staying longer in the country and most comfortable; InterRegio board. In Bucharest, an Activ Card
are advised to buy a local pre- tend to stop more frequently; (similar to London's Oyster Card)
paid SIM to reduce the cost Regio trains are slow, uncomfor- is required. It can be bought at
of calls. table and best avoided. The first ticket kiosks next to major stops.
Romania has one of two categories require seat
the fastest average internet reservations. Domestic train
speeds in the world, and free, tickets can be bought online Travelling by Car
fast Wi-Fi is ubiquitous in all in advance at the website Driving in Romania is an unsettling
venues - from hotels to cafés - bilete.cfrcalatori.ro, run by the experience, as Romanian drivers
in the cities, most towns and Romanian railway company are very impatient, relying on
even villages. CFR. The Romanian train tailgating and frequent use of
timetable is online at infofer.ro. horns to intimidate other road
Visitors can book international users. In rural areas, horses and
Arriving by Air tickets through the agency carts are a major hazard, partic-
Bucharest's Henri Coandă Wasteels, which has offices in ularly at night when they may not
(Otopeni) airport is located Bucharest and Braşov. have lights. Drivers are required
16 km (10 miles) from the city to carry an EU or international
centre. It is served by a wide licence, Green Card insurance
range of airlines from all over Travelling by Bus or its equivalent and vehicle
Europe, but there are no direct Instead of a central bus station, registration documents. Car hire
flights from destinations such Bucharest has six smaller bus is available in most towns and
as the US or Canada. Visitors stations located around the edges cities. Major rental companies
should note that international of the city. Of these, Filaret Bus are: Avis, Europcar and Hertz.
flights from the UK, Germany Station serves Thessaloniki, Athens Taxis are also plentiful in
and Italy also serve Bacau, and southeastern Romania; bigger towns and cities.
Cluj-Napoca, Craiova, Iasi, Bucureşti Militari serves northern However, passengers should
Sibiu, Targu Mures and destinations including Sibiu; insist on the meter being used,
Timisoara airports. C&I Bus Terminal serves Braşov or agree on a fare in advance.
DIRECTORY
Documentation Emergencies Wizz Air Filaret Bus Station
∑ wizzair.com 1 Gara Filaret Square,
∑ mae.ro/en Ambulance, Police Bucharest.
Tel 112. Tel (021) 336 0692.
Embassies and Rail Travel
Consulates Health and
CFR
Travelling by Car
Australia Security
∑ cfr.ro Avis
34e Titu Maioresću St, Emergency Clinic B-dul Theodor Pallady 51,
Bucharest. Hospital Wasteels Bucharest.
Tel (21) 319 0229. Calea Floreasca 8, Tel (21) 210 4344.
Tel (021) 317 0369.
Bucharest. ∑ avis.ro
United Kingdom ∑ wasteels.ro
Tel (021) 599 2300.
24 Jules Michelet, Europcar
Calea Bucureşti 25-27,
Bucharest. Travelling by Bus Str. Grigore Mora 17,
Braşov.
Tel (21) 201 7200. Bucharest.
Tel (0268) 320 022.
Bucureşti Militari Tel (21) 310 1797.
United States
Communications ∑ europcar.ro
B-dul Liviu Librescu 4–5, Valea Cascadelor 1,
Bucharest. Hertz
Bucharest Main Post Bucharest.
Tel (21) 200 3300. Piata Montreal 10,
Office
Tel (0725) 939 939. Bucharest.
St Matei Millo 10,
Visitor Information Bucharest.
Tel (21) 407 8200.
C&I Bus Terminal ∑ hertz.ro
∑ romaniatourism.
com Arriving by Air Splaiul Unirii 60,
DIRECTORY
Malls Books and Music Theatre Festivals
Anthony Frost National Theatre Bucharest of Old
Afi Palace Cotroceni
English Bookshop ∑ http://ro.earlymusic.
Bulevardul Bălcescu 2,
Bulevardul Vasile Milea 4, Calea Victoriei 45, ro
Bucharest.
Bucharest. Bucharest.
Tel (021) 314 7171. International Jazz
Tel (021) 311 5138.
Festival
Iulius Mall Timişoara ∑ anthonyfrost.ro
Classical Music ∑ sibiujazz.ro
Str Aristide Demetriade Muzica and Opera Sighişoara Medieval
nr. 1, Timişoara. Calea Victoriei 41–43,
Festival
Bucharest. Bucharest National ∑ sighisoara-medieval.
Unirii Shopping Tel (021) 313 9674. Opera ro
Centre Nautilus Bulevardul Kogalniceanu
Str Arh. Ion Mincu 17, Traditional Crafts Fair
Piaţa Unirii 1, 70, Bucharest.
Bucharest. ∑ muzeul-satului.ro
Tel (021) 314 6980.
Bucharest. Tel (021) 222 5030. ∑ operanb.ro Outdoor
∑ nautilus.ro
Gifts and Cluj-Napoca National
Activities
Souvenirs Listings Opera Travel Maker
In Your Pocket Piaţa Ştefan cel Mare 24, Str. Elena Vacarescu 9,
Cellini Bucharest Cluj-Napoca. Tel (0264) Bucharest.
∑ inyourpocket.com 597 175. ∑ operacluj.ro Tel(021) 232 03 31.
Bulevardul N Bălcescu 16,
∑ bucharestcitytour.
Bucharest. Şapte Seri Opera Braşov com
∑ sapteseri.ro Str Bisericii Romane Nr.
Tel (021) 312 2202. Poiana Braşov
51, Braşov.
Curtea Sticlarilor Nightlife Tel (0268) 417 866.
Tel (0268) 419 380. ∑ poiana-brasov.com
Str Selari 9–11, Bucharest. Club A ∑ opera-brasov.ro
Str Blănari 14,
Tel (021) 314 3228. Romanian
Bucharest.
Tel (021) 313 5592. Athenaeum
Romartizana
Mojo Str Franklin 1–3,
Calea Victoriei 16–20,
Str Gabroveni 14, Bucharest.
Bucharest. Bucharest. Tel (021) 315 2567.
Tel (021) 313 14 65. Tel (760) 263 496. ∑ fge.org.ro
572 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
under 300 lei
300–600 lei
over 600 lei
SIBIU: Felinarul
Hostel
Str Felinarului 8, 550183
Tel (0269) 250 282
Lavish lobby at the Athenee Palace, Bucharest ∑ felinarulhostelsibiu.ro
This boutique hostel in a historic
house offers two dorms and one
Bucharest Rest of Romania double, healthy breakfasts and
plenty of genuine hospitality.
Andy Hotel BRAŞOV: Casa Wagner
Boutique Historic
Str Witing 2 Piaţa Sfatului 5, 500031 DK Choice
Tel (021) 300 30 50 Tel (0268) 411 253 SIGHISOARA: Casa
∑ andyhotels.ro ∑ casa-wagner.com cu Cerb
Smart modern hotel near the A 15th-century building in the Historic
railway station with immaculate, main square with large rooms Str Scolii 1, 545400
well-equipped en suites. Doubles featuring exposed beams and Tel (0265) 774 625
with shared facilities also available. period furnishings. ∑ casacucerb.ro
Housed in one of Sighisoara's
Funky Chicken BRAŞOV: Villa Prato oldest buildings, the Casa cu
Hostel Map D3 Boutique Cerb (House of the Stag) is
Str Gen. Berthelot 63 Str St O. Josif 2, 500041 located in the centre of the Old
Tel (021) 312 1425 Tel (0268) 473 371 Town. This delightful historic inn
∑ funkychickenhostel.com ∑ villaprato.ro features barrel-vaulted ceilings,
Crammed into several rooms of a Wonderfully restored villa with exposed brick walls, woodwork
residential block, this lively hostel well-equipped and spacious and plenty of period-style
offers dorms and private rooms. rooms. Enjoy views of the Old furniture. Rooms are neat and
Town over breakfast served in well-equipped. Attic rooms are
Rembrandt the conservatory. particularly charming.
Boutique Map E4
Str Smardan 11 CLUJNAPOCA: Capitolina
Tel (021) 313 93 15 Business SUCEAVA: Continental
∑ rembrandt.ro Str Victor Babes 35, 400012 Suceava
Exquisite town house in the old Tel (0264) 450 490 Business
city centre offering luxurious ∑ hotel-capitolina.ro Str Mihai Viteazul 4–6, 720042
rooms and a great breakfast. Smart hotel with spacious and Tel (0372) 304 904
well-equipped rooms, fitness ∑ continentalhotels.ro
Athenee Palace centre and conference facilities City centre hotel with comfortable
Historic Map E3 just a few minutes from various rooms and a good buffet breakfast.
Str Episcopei 1–3, 10092 shopping and cultural sites.
Tel (021) 303 3777 TIMIŞOARA: Timişoara
∑ hiltonbucharest.com CLUJNAPOCA: City Plaza Business
Once the hotbed of international Hotel Str Marasesti 1–4, 300086
espionage, this member of the Spa Tel (0256) 498 852
Hilton chain is as comfortable and Str Sindicatelor 9–13, 400029 ∑ hoteltimisoara.ro
well-run as you would expect. Tel (0264) 450 101 Relaxing, casual hotel in the heart
∑ cityhotels.ro of the city with spacious rooms
Golden Tulip In a quiet part of town, this that offer good views.
Luxury Map D3 modern hotel offers fully
Calea Victoriei 166, 10096 equipped rooms, spa, swimming TULCEA: Delta
Tel (021) 212 5558 pool and event facilities. Resort
∑ goldentulipbucharest.com Str Isaccei 2, 820169
Superbly located on the main CONSTANŢA: Hotel Voila Tel (0240) 514 720
boulevard, the hotel offers Boutique ∑ hoteldelta.eu
contemporary rooms. Superb Str Callatis 22, 900744 With a Danube riverfront location,
views from the breakfast room Tel (0241) 508 004 this tourist complex offers 3-star
on the top floor. ∑ hotelvoila.ro and 4-star sections.
For map references see pp546–7
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 573
Rossetya
Romanian
Str Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, 21061
Tel (031) 805 9199
Cuisine based on traditional
19th-century Romanian recipe
books. The broad-ranging menu
covers duck, pork and lamb as
well as vegetarian choices.
Rest of Romania
BRAŞOV: Casa Hirscher
French/Mediterranean
Piaţa Sfatului 12–14, 500025
Tel (0268) 410 533 Diners at Caru Cu Bere in Bucharest
SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE 575
BULGARIA
Bulgaria’s stunning scenery and Mediterranean climate have made it one of
Europe’s best tourist destinations. Though famous for its Black Sea beaches and
scintillating ski resorts, it offers the visitor many further rewards through the
sheer diversity of its natural beauty spots, archaeological sites and picture-
postcard villages.
With its warm climate and fertile soil, was falling under the Thracians,
Bulgaria has attracted settlers from who established tribal states across
ancient times and remnants of former Bulgaria, Romania and northern Greece.
civilizations can be found everywhere, By AD 50, however, the Romans had
from prehistoric burial grounds to taken control of the region. The Roman
Ottoman mosques. Among its natural Empire was split in the 5th century and
attributes, its sandy beaches are Bulgaria became part of the eastern
captivating and the mountains Byzantine half. Migrating Slav tribes
provide scope for hiking and skiing. were allowed to settle and live
The country’s proud folk heritage peacefully throughout the region.
contrasts with its recent transformation The Bulgars, a Turkic tribe from
into a modern European nation, Central Asia, crossed the Danube
making Bulgaria a vibrant and in 681 and soon fused with the Slavs
invigorating destination. already living there, creating the
Bulgarian nation. Bulgarian power
History reached its peak under Tsar Simeon
Archaeological discoveries have (r. 893–927), who extended the borders
shown that Neolithic people were almost as far as Constantinople.
living in the region as early as 5500 BC. However, a Byzantine resurgence
By 1000 BC, South Eastern Europe halted further expansion.
Exploring Bulgaria
Few capitals bear the imprint of history as clearly as Sofia,
Bulgaria’s largest city. Roman masonry juts from the walls
of its churches, while fragments of Byzantine fortifications
survive in pedestrian subways. To the south of bustling and
sophisticated Sofia are fascinating highland villages such
as Bansko and Borovets and the monasteries of Rila and
Bachkovo; to the east, on the Black Sea, are the coastal
towns of Varna and Nesebûr and the Golden Sands resort;
while all over the country, medieval fortresses stand as
reminders of Bulgaria’s illustrious history. The country’s rail
network links all the major towns and cities, while rural
Bulgaria is accessible by local bus. Taxis can also be used
for long-distance journeys, if arranged in advance.
Wooden houses along a street in the Old
Sights at a Glance Town, Sozopol
1 Sofia pp578–85 8 Plovdiv pp594–5 y Nesebûr
2 Rila Monastery pp586–9 9 Koprivshtitsa pp596–7 u Burgas
3 Rila National Park 0 Veliko Tûrnovo pp598–601 i Sozopol
4 Borovets q Varna pp602–603
5 Bansko w Stone Forest
6 Melnik e Golden Sands
7 Bachkovo Monastery r Kaliakra
pp592–3 t Sunny Beach
Silistra
Vidin
21
ROMANIA Ruse
Lom
7
2
Dobrich 29
5
Kaliakra
1
Pleven
ûr
3 Razgrad
Isk
Montana Shumen A2
Ya n
1 4 Stone Varna
8
Sevlievo
5 Veliko Tûrnovo Forest
Black Sea
9
Troyan Gabrovo
A2
SOFIA Sliven
6
Karlovo 6 Sunny Beach
Pernik A1 A1 Nesebûr
A1
Koprivshtitsa Kazanlûk 66
Samokov 8
Kyustendil Stara Zagora lia Sozopol
Rume Burgas
6
Tundzha
Borovets Plovdiv
9
5
Rila Monastery
8 Dimitrovgrad
Blagoevgrad Rila National
Park Haskovo A1
Bansko
Bachkovo
8
TURKEY
MACEDONIA Sandanski
Me
Monastery
sta
1
a Kûrdzhali
Melnik Ard
GREECE
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Key
Motorway
Major road
Railway
The popular beach at Golden Sands near Varna, on the Black Sea coast International border
1 Sofia
With a population of over one million people, Sofia
was founded more than 7,000 years ago and has
been the capital of Bulgaria since 1879. Today, the
city’s historic centre bears witness to the diverse
cultural influences that have shaped the country.
Orthodox churches and an Art Nouveau synagogue
are evidence of its rich religious heritage, while
Roman, medieval and Ottoman-era buildings serve
as reminders of the city’s ancient origins. Adding
to the city’s grandeur are the monumental public The magnificent Aleksandûr Nevski
Memorial Church
buildings from the Communist period, appearing
U IL
in the downtown squares and junctions. Beyond
SA M
the city centre, residential suburbs are broken up
TS A R
V
LO
Railway Station
by attractive swathes of green parkland and the NOV
I
1 km (0.6 mile)
BO
looming presence of Mount Vitosha.
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Rotunda of
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16
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Area of the main map
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Theatre A TE Assembly
N
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Ohridski
PT
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3 Archaeological
Museum
Археологически Музей
ul. Saborna 2. Map D4. Tel (02) 988
2406. v 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 12, 18. q Serdika.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
- museum annexe. ∑ naim.bg
Traditionally painted icons in elaborate gilt frames adorning the iconostasis in the Russian Church
582 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Entrance to
the crypt
KEY
Dome Fresco
The dome fresco depicts God VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Creator, with the Christ
Practical Information
Child on his knee, looking down
pl. Aleksandûr Nevski. Map F4.
on the congregation. The frescoes
Main Church: Tel (02) 988 1704.
were painted by Russian and
Open Nov–Feb: 7am–6pm daily;
Bulgarian artists.
Mar–Oct: 7am–7pm daily. Icon
Gallery in Crypt: Tel (02) 981 5775.
Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 3 Mar, 25 Dec. &
5 9:30am Sun, 8am & 5pm
daily (liturgy).
Transport
@ 9, 280, 306. 1, 4, 9, 11.
q Sveti Kliment Ohridski.
. Iconostasis
The marble, onyx and alabaster
iconostasis features carvings of
grapes, palms and peacocks.
The icons include portraits of
Christ and the Virgin.
Tsar’s Throne
Built for Tsar Ferdinand
Clusters of Candles (r. 1887–1918), the throne is
Visitors to the church buy guarded by stone lions and
candles at the entrance crowned by a marble canopy.
and light them as a Behind it is a portrait of the
symbol of prayer. tsar and his wife.
584 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
0 National History
Museum
Национален Исторически
Музей
ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana. Map A5.
Tel (02) 955 4280. @ 63, 111. v 2.
Open Nov–Mar: 9am–5:30pm (last
ticket 4:45pm) Tue–Sat; Apr–Oct:
9:30am–6pm (last ticket 5:30pm) Tue–
Sat. & Free last Mon of the month.
8 - = ∑ historymuseum.org
2 Rila Monastery
Рилски манастир
Arcades
The murals in the arcades vividly
depict sinners thrown into an
apocalyptic vision of Hell. This
contrasts with the arcades’ graceful
structure of arches, slender
columns and blind cupolas.
. Murals
Magnificent murals adorn
the church walls, illustrating
characters and episodes
from the Bible. Zahari
Zograf, Bulgaria’s greatest
19th-century painter, is the
only one of the artists
responsible to have
signed his work.
For hotels and restaurants see p610 and p611
BULGARIA 587
. Iconostasis
This masterpiece was created by a team
of woodcarvers working under Atanas
Telador between 1839 and 1842. The
10-m (33-ft) wide iconostasis, covered
in gold leaf, is elaborately decorated
with complex carvings of stylized floral
elements, symbolic human and animal
images, biblical scenes and wild animals.
St Ivan of Rila
The medieval hermit St Ivan of Rila
(880–946) retreated into the Rila
Mountains to escape what he believed
to be the moral decline of society. He
was venerated both for his wisdom
KEY
and as a healer, and was persuaded by
1 The arcades are decorated his followers to establish a monastery.
with some of the finest murals. After his death, pilgrims came to view
St Ivan of Rila, patron saint his remains, which were believed to
2 The three main cupolas
contain murals of the Holy Trinity. of Bulgaria possess curative powers.
588 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Key
See pp586–7
7 Bachkovo Monastery
Бачковски манастир
. Last Judgment
In the porch of the Church of Sveti Nikola
is a fresco of the Last Judgment by Zahari
Zograf, with sinners falling into the
fires of Hell.
. Iconostasis
The Church of
Sveta Bogoroditsa
also contains a highly
ornate 17th-century
gilt iconostasis, which
Devotees gather here to kiss gleams in the soft
the silver-plated Icon of the light of hundreds of
Virgin, painted in 1310. flickering candles.
Main entrance
Procession of the
Miraculous Icon
The refectory wall on the left
Ayazmoto
of the courtyard bears the
largest panoramic wall painting
in Bulgaria. Painted by Alexi
Atanasov in 1846, it depicts the
annual procession of the Icon of
the Virgin on 15 August, the day
of the Assumption of the Virgin.
After Orthodox Easter, the icon
is carried to Ayazmoto.
Ayazmoto
The nearby hills shelter a
chapel near a locality known
as Ayazmoto. The Icon of the
Virgin was once hidden here
from the Ottomans.
. Refectory
A solid stone table and wooden
benches stretch the length of
the 17th-century refectory.
The vaulted ceiling is covered Procession of the miraculous Icon of the
with frescoes by pupils of Virgin Mary
Zahari Zograf.
594 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
P Hipokrat Pharmacy
ul. Sûborna. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.
The fascinating Hipokrat
The well-preserved Roman Theatre, still used for performances Pharmacy has been preserved
virtually as it was when it was a
T Roman Stadium work in 1972. It was built in the working pharmacy. It is lined
pl. Dzhumaya. 2nd century AD, when Roman with wooden drawers and
Crumbling marble terraces and Plovdiv (Trimontium) was at its contains bottles and jars neatly
columns, oddly incorporated height, and formed part of the labelled in Latin.
into the concrete foundations acropolis. Today, the theatre is
of modern Plovdiv, are almost used for plays and concerts. E Icon Museum
all that remains of the city’s ul. Sûborna 22. Open 9.30am–12:30pm,
once huge Roman stadium. R Church of Sveta 1–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–12:30pm,
Built in the 2nd century AD, it Bogoroditsa 1–5:30pm Sat, Sun. & free on Thu.
could seat 30,000 spectators. ul. Saborna 6. Open 7:30am–6:30pm This interesting museum is
daily. 5 home to a valuable array of
R Church of Sveta Marina The imposing Church of Sveta
ul. Dr Vulkovich 7. Bogoroditsa has a distinctive
The present church was pink and blue bell tower which
built in 1783 on the site of was added with Russian assistance
a 16th-century church. It is in 1880, after the Liberation. Its
renowned for its iconostasis, murals echo the mood of the
which is decorated with tiny late 19th century. They depict
figures painted by various Bulgarian Orthodox saints
artists including Zahari Zograf. alongside leaders of the
Liberation movement.
T Roman Theatre
ul. Hemus. Open 9am–5:30pm P Hristo Danov House
daily. & ul. Mitropolit Paisii 2. Open 9am–
This impressive amphitheatre, noon, 2–5pm Mon–Fri. &
set in the hillside overlooking Built on Taxim Hill (Taxim Tepe)
the city and the Rhodope and approached up steep steps,
Mountains beyond, was dis- Hristo Danov House overlooks The State Gallery of Fine Arts, in an
covered during construction Plovdiv. Its arched gable is imposing Neo-Classical building
For hotels and restaurants see p610 and p611
BULGARIA 595
ATA R O V
1 Roman Stadium MA ASEN ZL
RD
E VA
BUL
B U L E VA R D
PL B U L E VA R D
RI
History
Hindliyan House
N
Museum K N YA Z BOGORIDI I
SH
7 Hipokrat Pharmacy
U L ARTIN
House
GIDIKOV
ISH
R A IK
YOA
TS A N
M
VR EN O
O D
K IM GRU
V
9 Hindliyan House Icon Museum
A SK A
SK
0 Nedkovich House R
T
ZA
Hipokrat
EV
ARE
E
LO V
EL Pharmacy
Û
S
q History Museum HRISTO
DANOV ZH
PA N
PL State Gallery
DZHUMAYA
w Imaret Mosque IM
I
RNA
of Fine Arts
IT
AN
T Roman SÛBO Church of
OL
I ST RAN M ETROPOLIT
OP
V House
KO
MI
V Roman
RA
ZD Theatre
B.
UL K NYAZ
Sa ha t PL
VUZRAZHDANE
Te pe Church of
NAI D EN GEROV
Sveta Marina
OTE
R V UL K O V I
UL D
A L E K XA
Clock
TODO
CH
TS
Tower
PA I
R
SII
0 metres 200
N D ER I
PL
KABL
PONEDELNIK
PAZARV
0 yards 200
ES H
PL
STEPHAN Railway Station
STAMBOLOV 1.5 km (1 mile)
KOV
9 Koprivshtitsa
Копривщица
Considered one of Bulgaria’s most attractive towns due to its
many fine National Revival houses, Koprivshtitsa was founded
in the 14th century. It was originally a rich centre of cattle farm-
ing. Under Ottoman rule its citizens were granted autonomy
in return for collecting taxes on behalf of the Ottoman Empire.
In the early 19th century, Koprivshtitsa’s prosperity attracted
kûrdzhali (bandits), who plundered and torched the town on
several occasions. It was during the ensuing period of recon-
struction that its colourfully painted wood and stone houses
were built. Koprivshtitsa was also the home of several of Kableshkov House, elegant home of the
Bulgaria’s leading revolutionaries, and it was here that the leader of the April Rising
momentous April Rising of 1876 (see p576) was declared.
Bloody Letter, written in the blood
of the revolutionaries’ first Turkish
P Debelyanov House church that was destroyed by the victim. The house was built in 1845
ul. Dimcho Debelyanov. Tel (07184) kûrdzhali. Surrounded by thick to a symmetrical design, the
2077. Open May–Oct: 9:30am– stone walls, it was built slightly central salons on both floors
5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm sunken into the ground so flanked by identical rooms. The
Tue–Sun. & as to comply with Ottoman central bay on the upper floor
This delightful house regulations governing the has stepped windows and a
set above the town was height of Christian churches. decorated ceiling.
the birthplace of the The three-storey bell tower
Symbolist poet Dimcho was added in 1896. The P Bridge of the First Shot
Debelyanov, who was church’s interior is plain, ul. Pûrva Pushka.
killed in action in World but it has a superb A hallowed site in Bulgarian
War I. The house con- iconostasis by wood- history, this humpbacked bridge
tains personal posses- carvers of the Tryavna in a quiet location southwest of
sions, such as books, School. Some of its icons the town centre is the spot
photographs and were painted by Zahari where the first Turk was killed
paintings, including a Zograf. Tragically, the during the April Rising.
portrait of the poet by Statue in the garden of church’s original murals
Georgi Mashev. Debelyanov House were replaced by newly P Lyutov House
painted icons in the ul. Nikola Belovezhdov 2. Tel (07184)
R Church of Sveta course of misguided renovation. 2138. Open May–Oct: 9:30am–
Bogoroditsa 5:30pm Wed–Mon; Nov–Apr:
ul. Dimcho Debelyanov 26. P Kableshkov House 9am–5pm Wed–Mon. &
Open irregular hours. 5 ul. Todor Kableshkov 8. Tel (07184) Designed by master craftsmen
The blue-walled Church of Sveta 2054. Open May–Oct: 9:30am–5:30pm from Plovdiv in 1854, Lyutov
Bogoroditsa played a memorable Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm House features a huge curved
role in Bulgarian history. On 20 Tue–Sun. & gable, symmetrical layout and
April 1876, its bell rang out to This imposing building was the decorative features of Plovdiv
announce the beginning of the home of Todor Kableshkov, leader architecture. In 1906, it was
April Rising. The church was built of the April Rising. He declared acquired by Petko Lyutov, a local
in 1817 on the site of an earlier the start of the uprising with his merchant. The central salon has
an elliptical vaulted ceiling edged
with murals of the cities that Lyutov
visited. The rooms on either side
are furnished with Ottoman-style
benches and European furniture.
On the ground floor is an exhibi-
tion of 18th- and 19th-century
rugs, made in Koprivshtitsa.
P Oslekov House
ul. Gereniloto 4. n (0885) 743 657.
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
(9am–5pm winter). &
This house was built in 1856 for
The Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa, whose bell proclaimed the April Rising the wealthy merchant, Nincho
For hotels and restaurants see p610 and p611
BULGARIA 597
Koprivshtitsa Town
Centre Railway Station its
a
ln
12 km (7.5 miles) po
1 Debelyanov House To
P E TÂ R
D I MC HO D E B E LYANO V
House
3 Kableshkov House
LK
Karavelov
OV
Oslekov House
4 Bridge of the First Shot House
Apriltsi
5 Lyutov House Mausoleum
N I LO PLAZA BL
6 Oslekov House RA 20 APRIL VD
GA
UL
7 Karavelov House
HA
D
ZH
GE
Church of Sveta
C
O
RG
Bogoroditsa
BE
I
A
NK
Kableshkov
K
H
OV
House
S
Lyutov
PU
SK
House Bus
I
Bridge of Station
A
RV
VEZHD O V
B E LO School
IKO LA
UL N Narodno-
chitalishte
To p
0 metres 100
ol
ni
ts
House
P Sarafkina House
ul. Gen. Gurko 88. Tel (062) 635
802. Open 9am–noon & 1–6pm
Tue–Sat. &
With stone walls below and
whitewashed walls above,
shuttered windows and a tiled
roof, this house is typical of the
city’s 19th-century domestic
Church of Sveti Nikolai, built by the 19th-century architect Kolyo Ficheto architecture. It was built in 1861
For hotels and restaurants see p610 and p611
BULGARIA 599
K IRIL
I METOD
II
Slaveykov
5 Asenevtsi Monument
A
Samovodska
OV
House
ZH
K A
MEDN Charshiya
RAF
6 Art Gallery
KA R A D
IKA
RSK
IP
A V Û S TA N I CH E
SH
Church of
OG
SKA
7 Sarafkina House PL. P. R. Sveti Nikolai
TIP
Little Monkey
8 Archaeological Museum
T
ZL
YO
Monument ST
EF
AT
O PA
PAN
A
AR
RA
9 Museum of the National Revival to the Hanged N KO
SK
KO VS
GÛ R
I
LCH E NSKA
ST KI
and Constituent Assembly GE
N. A
PL.
G. KIRKOV
G K R AY B R E Z H N A M
ST
BO
0 Modern History Museum EN
O
O
. GÛRK LO
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V
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IS
EN
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N
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N
IM
Asenevtsi
O
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SE
D
N Monument Church of SS
Ya
PEN
AR
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O
V GE
EV
Park
I
ZH
I VA
N.
Stambolov
D
Sarafkina
A
YA N Bridge Art
HR
GÛ
H
K A LO Gallery House
TSAR
RK
IST
VA
KI
OLIYS
O
MB Tsarevets &
O
ZO
ND
SA
Modern History
0 metres 100 Museum
0 yards 100
Church of St George
Constructed in 1616, the church
contains badly damaged and heavily
restored frescoes of Orthodox saints.
To Veliko
Tûrnovo
Main Gate
Asenova Gate
Reconstructed in 1976, this
three-storey gate tower was
used by the inhabitants of
the Asenova Quarter.
KEY
Church of St Demetrius
This church is dedicated to St Demetrius,
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
patron saint of the Second Bulgarian
Practical Information
Kingdom. Restored medieval frescoes
Tsarevets. Tel (062) 638 841.
decorate its interior.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm daily. &
last Thu (free entrance). 8 (062)
638 841. = Light Show: on all
national holidays.
Rock of Execution
At the northernmost point of the fortress, the
Rock of Execution juts out above sheer cliffs,
with the Yantra river far below. It was from
here that traitors and criminals were pushed
to their deaths.
. Royal Palace
Built in the 12th century, the Royal
Palace was an enclosed complex
with a central courtyard. Now
partially reconstructed, it has
modern concrete staircases
enabling visitors to climb up
for magnificent views of
Patriarchate the surroundings.
At the hill’s highest point is
the 13th-century Church of the
Patriarchate. Defended by thick
walls, it was once part of the
patriarch’s residential complex. 0 metres 50
Striking modern murals
adorn the interior. 0 yards 50
602 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
440 km (273 miles) E of Sofia.
* 343,500. ( daily. _ Varna
Summer (Jul–Sep).
Transport
k 8 km (5 miles) N of centre.
£@v
The torpedo boat, Drûzhki at the entrance of the Navy Museum, Varna below the Sea Gardens is Varna’s
long, sandy beach. Lined with
traces the history of Varna from Y Sea Gardens outdoor restaurants, cafés and
the late 18th century, when it Aquarium: Tel (052) 632 066. bars, it is ideal for lazy days of
was a neglected coastal town, Open May–Sep: 9am–8pm daily; swimming and sunbathing. After
to the mid-20th century, when Oct–Apr: 9am–5pm daily. & 8 dark, the beach is one of the
it became a major port and ∑ aquariumvarna.com Black Sea’s liveliest spots, with
popular seaside resort. Planetarium: Tel (052) 684 441. Open clubs open until the small hours.
Mar–Oct: 5pm, 6pm Tue–Sat, Nov–Feb:
E Navy Museum 5pm Tue–Fri. 8 shows for pre-booked P Evksinograd Palace
groups only. & Dolphinarium: Tel (052)
bul. Primorski 2. Tel (052) 632 018. Tel (052) 393 140. Open 10am–3pm
302 199. & 8 shows during summer
Open Summer: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, only for pre-booked groups
at 10:30am, noon, 3:30pm, 5pm. -
Wed–Sun; Winter: 9am–5:30pm of 5 or more. Closed July & Aug.
= ∑ dolphinarium.festa.bg
Tue–Sat. & Located 8 km (5 miles) from
The prize exhibit of the Navy Begun in 1862, this urban central Varna, the spectacular
Museum is the torpedo boat park was designed by Czech Evksinograd Palace, built for
Drûzhki (Intrepid) displayed landscape architect Anton Prince Aleksandûr Batenberg I,
outside the museum. In 1912, Novak, with trees and plants was completed in 1886, and
during the First Balkan War, the from Bulgaria and around the served as the summer residence
Drûzhki secured the Bulgarian Mediterranean. Among its for Bulgarian royalty until the
navy’s only victory in the conflict flowerbeds and shaded paths are Communists came to power in
when it sank a large Turkish several family-friendly attractions, 1944. It was designed by famous
cruise ship. including an Aquarium with Viennese architect Rumpelmeyer
The museum itself holds stingrays, a Planetarium and and its gardens were laid out by
exhibits relating to navigation a Dolphinarium with regular French landscape designers in
on the Black Sea starting from shows conducted in four the 19th century. Today, the
the 6th century BC. languages. Stretching out palace is still a state property.
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City History
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Побитите камъни
420 km (260 miles) E of Sofia. @
t Sunny Beach
Слънчев бряг
430 km (267 miles) E of Sofia.
@ from Burgas.
∑ sunnybeach.bg.com
DIRECTORY
Documentation Emergency Gatwick Airport Trainseurope
∑ mfa.bg/en
Numbers ∑ gatwickairport.com ∑ trainseurope.co.uk
early August, and the Bansko translations seldom provided. in Bulgarian. Modern multiplex
Jazz Festival in mid-August. However, many are based on cinemas with comfortable seats
Every sizeable town and city improvisation and movement and high-quality sound are
in Bulgaria has at least one rather than text, so they are common in Sofia. Outside the
theatre. Sofia’s leading theatre, accessible even to non- capital, cinemas tend to be old-
the Ivan Vazov National Theatre, Bulgarian speakers. fashioned and badly ventilated.
is the base for Bulgaria’s best The leading opera and Both in Sofia and elsewhere,
actors and directors. Modern ballet companies in the country cinema tickets are inexpensive.
plays are also put on by the operate under the aegis of the
Sofia Drama Theatre, the Aleko National Opera and Ballet
Konstantinov Satirical Theatre, Sofia. The Plovdiv Opera and Folk Festivals
and Tears and Laughter, Sofia’s Philharmonic Society, Stara Performances of traditional
oldest theatre. Zagora Opera and Varna Opera folk music and dancing
The Sfumato Theatre and Philharmonic Society are are an important feature
Workshop is well known the best regional companies. of the Bulgarian calendar.
internationally for putting on Information and tickets for The leading folk festival,
contemporary and avant-garde most cultural events in Sofia held in Koprivshtitsa, is the
plays. However, the main festival are available from the National International Folk Festival,
for challenging modern drama Palace of Culture. at which folk dancers and
is Scene at the Crossroads, musicians from all over
which takes place in Plovdiv Bulgaria perform. This takes
in mid-September. Modern drama Cinema place every five years on a
also forms part of Sozopol’s New Hollywood blockbusters meadow outside the village.
Arts Festival, in early September. and other international films The Folklore Days Festival,
For visitors from other countries, reach Bulgaria a month or two a smaller gathering featuring
the main disadvantage is that after their release elsewhere. local folk singers and dancers,
almost all performances are in They are screened in their is held in central Koprivshtitsa
Bulgarian with simultaneous original language, with subtitles in mid-August each year.
DIRECTORY
Markets Motto National Palace Stara Zagora Opera
ul. Aksakov 18, Sofia. of Culture M M Kussev 30, Stara
Bric-à-Brac Market Tel (02) 987 2723. Zagora. Tel (042) 622 431.
pl. Aleksandûr pl. Bulgaria 1, Sofia, Tel
∑ motto-bg.com ∑ stateopera-
Nevski, Sofia. (02) 916 6300. ∑ ndk.bg
Yalta starazagora.com
Zhenski Pazar bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 20, Plovdiv Opera and Tears and Laughter
bul. Stefan Stambolov, Sofia. Tel (02) 980 1297. Philharmonic Society ul Rakovski 127, Sofia.
Sofia. ∑ yaltaclub.com
Tel (032) 625 553. Tel (02) 987 5895.
Handicrafts Music, Theatre ∑ ofd-plovdiv.org Varna International
and Dance Jazz Festival
Ethnographic Scene at the
Museum Shop Aleko Konstantinov Chaika 50-D-47, Varna.
Crossroads
pl. Aleksandûr Batenberg Satirical Theatre Tel (052) 302 322.
ul. Stefan Karadzha 26, Tel (032) 630 476. ∑ vsjf.com
1, Sofia. Tel (02) 989 5010;
989 6416. Sofia. Tel (02) 988 1060. ∑ scenatepe.com
Varna Opera and
Bansko Jazz Festival Sfumato Theatre Philharmonic Society
Food, Wine Vaptsarov Square, Bansko.
Workshop pl. Nezavisimost 2, Varna.
and Rakiya ∑ bansko-jazz.com Tel (052) 665 022.
ul. Dimitar Grekov 2, Sofia.
Damyanitza Bulgaria Concert Hall ∑ operavarna.bg
Tel (02) 944 0127.
∑ damianitza.bg ul. Aksakov 1, Sofia.
∑ sfumato.info Varna Summer
Tel (02) 987 7656.
Todoroff International Festival
∑ todoroff-wines.com Ivan Vazov National Sofia Drama Theatre ∑ varnasummerfest.
Theatre bul. Y Sakuzov 23a, Sofia. org
Nightlife ul. Dyakon Ignatii 5, Sofia.
Tel (02) 944 2485.
Tel (02) 811 9227. Folk Festivals
Mascara ∑ nationaltheatre.bg ∑ sofiatheatre.eu
bul. G. S. Rakovski 113, Folklore Days Festival
Sofia. Tel 886 272 272. National Opera and Sozopol’s Arts ∑ folklore-bg.com
Ballet Sofia
Festival International Folk
McCarthy’s Irish Pub Dondukov Bul. 30, Sofia.
ul. Alabin 29A, Sofia. Tel (02) 987 1366. Tel (02) 980 7833. Festival
Tel (89) 995 3243. ∑ operasofia.bg ∑ apollonia.bg ∑ varnafolk.org
610 W H E R E TO S TAY
Where to Stay
Sofia Plaza €€€ Price Guide
Sofia Luxury Prices are based on one night’s stay in high
season for a standard double room, inclusive
bul. Hristo Botev 154
Art Hostel € Tel (02) 813 7912 of service charges and taxes. Breakfast is
∑ hotelsofiaplaza.com included, unless otherwise specified.
Hostel
ul. Angel Kanchev 21a Conveniently located for the city’s € under €35
€€ €35 to €70
Tel (02) 987 0545 historic and cultural sites. Chic
€€€ over €70
∑ art-hostel.com rooms and apartment suites.
Full of art with a charming
garden and communal kitchen.
DK Choice
There’s even a bar-gallery Rest of Bulgaria
for exhibitions. PLOVDIV: Renaissance €€
BACHKOVO: Djamoura € Guesthouse
Bulgari €€ Guesthouse pl. Vuzrazhdane 1
Value Map B3 ul. Osvobozhdenya 74 Tel (032) 266 966
ul. Pirotska 50 Tel (03327) 2320 ∑ renaissance-bg.com
Tel (02) 831 0060 ∑ djamura.com Decorated in traditional 19th-
Located in one of Sofia’s Cosy rooms and suites in a century style, this hotel on the
oldest shopping areas. Rooms restored house, next to Bulgaria’s fringes of the Old Town offers
are neatly decorated and have second-largest monastery. rooms with period furniture
TV and desk space. and hand-painted walls.
BANSKO: Kempinski Grand
Scotty's Boutique Hotel €€ Hotel Arena €€€
Boutique Map C3 Luxury KOPRIVSHTITSA:
ul. Ekzarh Yosif 11 ul. Pirin 96 Tryanova Kûshta €
Tel (02) 983 6777 Tel (0749) 88888 Guesthouse
∑ scottyshotel.biz ∑ kempinski-bansko.com ul. Gereniloto
Elegantly transformed block that Plush five-star hotel with Tel (07184) 3057
has themed rooms decorated in service matching its fantastic All-wooden house with comfortable
bright colours and kitschy fabrics. mountain views. Perfect for rooms that feature traditional
ski-lovers. fabrics and pine furniture.
Grand Hotel Sofia €€€
Luxury Map D5 BOROVETS: Rila €€€ VELIKO TÛRNOVO:
ul. Gûrko 1 Luxury Hikers Hostel €
Tel (02) 811 0801 Tel (07503) 2295 Hostel
∑ grandhotelsofia.bg ∑ rilaborovets.com ul. Rezervoarska 91
Leading full-service hotel with Bulgaria's largest ski hotel Tel (0889) 691 661
majestic rooms and efficient service. right next to the slopes, ∑ hikers-hostel.org
offers elegant rooms and Quirky wooden furniture. The
Sheraton Sofia Hotel superb facilities. summer terrace has great views.
Balkan €€€
Luxury Map C4 MELNIK: Litova Kûshta €€ BURGAS: Bulgaria €€
pl. Sveta Nedelya 5 Guesthouse Boutique
Tel (02) 981 6541 Tel (07437) 2313 ul. Aleksandrovska 21
∑ sheratonsofia.com ∑ litovakushta.com Tel (056) 841 291
Sheer opulence, complete Hotel built upon an ancient ∑ bulgaria-hotel.com
with chandeliers, grand wine cellar; rooms with Sophisticated 17-storey building
rooms with plush furnishings hand-painted borders and with fantastic views of Burgas.
and more. wood ceilings.
SOZOPOL: Orion €€
Guesthouse
ul. Vihren 28
Tel (0550) 23193
∑ hotel-orion.net
A modest establishment with ten
rooms and six apartments.
DK Choice
VARNA: Graffit Gallery €€€
Boutique
bul. Knyaz Boris I 65
Tel (052) 989 900
∑ graffithotel.com
This stylish building holds four
floors of chic rooms, each floor
in a different colour. Luxurious
rooms and bath
bathrooms,
rooms, spa
centre and gym.
Picturesque setting of the luxurious Kempinski Grand Hotel Arena in Bansko
For map references see pp578–9
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 611
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) Aquarius Club (Zagreb) 480, 481
main entries 13, 109 Aqueduct (Salona) 451
Alexandriinskiy Theatre Arch of Sergii (Pula) 463
A (St Petersburg) 163 Archaeological Museum (Burgas) 605
A-Galerii (Tallinn) 118, 119 Ali, Adzem Esir 491 Archaeological Museum (Nesebûr) 605
A38 (Budapest) 376, 377 Alighieri, Nicolò 471 Archaeological Museum (Pécs) 363
Aachen, Hans von 230 All Estonian Song Festival 100 Archaeological Museum (Pula) 463
Abádszalók (Lake Tisza) 372 All Saints’ Church (Blato) 445 Archaeological Museum (Sofia) 580
Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 444 All Saints’ Church (Korčula) 444 Archaeological Museum (Split) 447, 450
Abbeys see Monasteries and Convents dell’Allio, Domenico 474 Archaeological Museum (Varna) 602
Abdul Hamid, Sultan 567 Alpár, Ignác 343 Archaeological Museum (Veliko
Abdülmedcid, Sultan 492 Alpinium Juliana (Triglav Tûrnovo) 599
Abercrombie & Kent 21 National Park) 418 Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 459
Abraham’s Sacrifice (Rembrandt) 150 Altmann & Kühne (Vienna) 389 Archaeological Museum
Academic Capella (St Petersburg) 163 Amadeus (film) 243, 251 (Zagreb) 445, 473
Academy of Fine Arts (Gdańsk) 213 Amber jewellery, Poland 218, 219 Archaeology Museum (Wrocław) 203
Accommodation see Hotels Amber Line (Rīga) 94, 95 Archangel Michael and Gabriel
Acrobats (Ferenczy) 344 American (airline) 20, 21 Orthodox Church and Museum
Adalbert, St 240 Ammende Villa (Pärnu) 112–13 (Sarajevo) 490
Adami, Carlo 329 Ámos, Imre 345 Archbishop of Canterbury 492
Adamson-Eric 108 Amphitheatre (Pula) 36, 463, 481 Archbishop’s Palace (Kromĕříž) 275
Admiralty (St Petersburg) 13, 143, 146, Amphitheatre (Salona) 451 Archbishop’s Palace (Trnava) 300
147, 158, 159 András II, King of Hungary 334 Archbishop’s Palace (Veszprém) 354
Adria Airways 425, 499, 515 András III, King of Hungary 321 Archbishop’s Palace (Zagreb) 470
Adventures Abroad 21 Andreotti, Paolo 438 Archdiocesan Museum (Wrocław) 200
Aeroflot 21, 161, 315 Andrew II, King 294, 474 Archdiocese Museum (Poznań) 207
Afi Palace Cotroceni Andrić, Ivo 494 Architecture Museum (Wrocław) 202
(Bucharest) 570, 571 Andropov, Yuriy 133 The Archives of the War Ministry
Agharta Jazz Centrum (Prague) 283 Angla windmills (Saaremaa Island) 111 (St Petersburg) 144
Agnes, St 247 Anitra Travel (Nikšić) 516 Aréna (Bratislava) 317
Air Canada 20, 21 Anna Cave (Bükk National Park) 367 Aréna Rīga 94, 95
Air France 217, 375, 479 Anna Dandolo, Queen 535 The Ark, Old-New Synagogue
Air Serbia 499, 515, 537 Anna Ivanovna, Duchess of Courland 89 (Prague) 249
Air Slovakia 315 Anna, Margit 345 Armorial Hall (Winter Palace) 155
Air travel 20–21 Anna, Tsarina 130 Arneri Castle (Korčula) 445
Bosnia and Herzegovina 499 Anna Vasa 208 Árpád, Prince 321, 337, 350, 359
Bulgaria 607 Anna Nova (St Petersburg) 162, 163 Arsenal (Hvar) 454
Croatia 479 Ännchen of Tharau (Klaipėda) 64 Art Galleries see Museums
Czech Republic 281 Anneli Viik (Tallinn) 118, 119 and Galleries
Estonia 116–17 Antal, Károly 339 Art Nouveau Rīga 94, 95
Hungary 375 d’Anthès (French officer) 138, 157 Artists’ Hill (Sigulda) 90
Latvia 93 Anthony Frost English Bookshop The Artist’s Studio (Vermeer) 385
Lithuania 69 (Bucharest) 570, 571 Artists’ Union Exhibition Hall
Montenegro 515 Anthony of Padova, St 369 (Vilnius) 70, 71
Moscow and St Petersburg 161 Anthony’s Shaft (Idrija) 412 Arts Square (St Petersburg) 158
Poland 217 Antikvariát Pražský Almanach (Prague) Artus Court (Gdańsk) 214
Romania 569 282, 283 As Mediph (Podgorica) 514, 515
Serbia 537 Antique Centre (St Petersburg) 162, 163 Ascension (Koloszvári) 348
Slovakia 315 Antiques Asenevtsi Monument
Slovenia 425 Czech Republic 282 (Veliko Tûrnovo) 598
Vienna 388–9 Estonia 118 Asenova Gate (Veliko Tûrnovo) 600
airBaltic 69, 93, 117 Hungary 376 Ash Pond (Auschwitz II) 199
Ajka Crystal (Budapest) 376, 377 Latvia 94 Ashkenazi Jews 34, 247
Aken, Hans von 107 Lithuania 70 Ashkenazi Synagogue
Aladzha Monastery (Bulgaria) 604 Moscow and St Petersburg 162 (Sarajevo) 489, 492
Albertina (Hofburg Complex) 382 Poland 218 Asimov Tower (Dubrovnik) 439
Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre Romania 570 Asociácia Informačných Centier
(Sofia) 609 Slovakia 316 Slovenska (AICES) 314, 315
Aleksandûr Batenberg I, Prince 603 Antykwariat Daes (Wrocław) 218, 219 Asparuh, Khan 37
Aleksandûr Nevski, Prince Anželika Cholina Dance Theatre Aspazija see Rozenberga, Elza
of Novgorod 582 (Vilnius) 71 Aspazija House (Jūrmala) 86
Aleksandûr Nevski Memorial Church Apáca utca (Pécs) 362 Assembly Hall (Palace of Parliament,
(Sofia) 395, 578, 582–3 Apollon Gay Club (Bratislava) 316, 317 Bucharest) 549
Aleš, Mikoláš 242, 245, 266 Apollonia Arts Festival (Sozopol) 605 Assembly Hall (Wrocław University) 200
Alexander I, Tsar 147 Apor, Vilmos 351 The Assembly of the Olympic Gods
State Apartments (Hofburg The Apostles Peter and Paul (El Greco) 153 (Rubens) 230
Complex) 384 Apotheosis of Gdańsk (Blocke) 214 Assumption of the Virgin (Titian) 348
Alexander II, Tsar Apotheosis of St Charles Borromeo Astorka Theatre (Bratislava) 317
assassination of 154, 157 (Rottmayr) 387 Astronomical Clock (Prague) 10, 245
White Hall (Winter Palace) 155 Apparition Hill (Međjugorje) 497 At the Red Lobster (Bratislava) 295
Alexander III, Tsar 109 The Appearance of Christ to the People Atanasov, Alexi 593
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Ivanov) 140 Ateneum (Warsaw) 218, 219
(Tallinn) 109 Applied Arts Museum (Poznań) 205 Atlantis (Tartu) 118, 119
Archbishop’s Palace (Kromĕříž) 275 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 54–5 ATMs 18
Church on Spilled Blood (St April Rising of 1876 596 see also Banking and Currency
Petersburg) 157 Apted, Michael 139 Atrium Music Club (Balatonfüred) 377
Alexander, King of Yugoslavia 530 Aquariums Attila the Hun 321
Alexander Column (St Petersburg) 147 Dubrovnik 439 Auditorium, National Theatre
Alexander Hall (Winter Palace, St Piran 411 (Prague) 255
Petersburg) 155 Varna 603 Augustinčić, Antun 470
GENERAL INDEX 613
Augustinerkirche (Vienna) 382, 384 Bansko 577, 588, 591 Belgrade Bus Station 537
Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 277 hotels 610 Belgrade Church and Museum of
Augustus III, King of Poland 178 restaurants 611 Serbian Orthodox Ecclesiastical Art
Augustyn Locci the Elder 177 Bansko Jazz Festival 609 (Szentendre) 344–5
Aukso Avis (Vilnius) 70, 71 Baptism of Christ (Hamzić) 438 Belgrade Dance Festival 538
Aula (Vilnius) 70, 71 “Baptism on the Savica” (Prešeren) 416 Belgrade International Theatre Festival
Auracom 69 Bar 507, 516 (BITEF) 538
Auschwitz 196–9, 341, 363 hotels 517 Belgrade Music Festival 538
Auschwitz I 196–7 restaurants 518 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra
Auschwitz II 198–9 Barcsay, Jenő 346 538
Austrian Airlines 20, 21, 69, 161, 315, Barcsay Collection (Szentendre) 346 Bellotto, Bernardo 178
388, 389, 479, 499 Bars and Pubs Bely, Andrei 136
Austrian Museum of Applied Arts Bulgaria 608 Bely House-Museum (Moscow) 136
(Vienna) 387 Croatia 480–81 Benedictine Church (Sopron) 352
Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb 479 Czech Republic 283 Benekit v.o.s. (Bratislava) 316
Autobusová Stanica Bratislava 315 Estonia 118 Benetović, Martin 455
Autoosta 93 Hungary 377 Benkovski, Georgi 597
Ave Sol (Rīga) 95 Latvia 94 Benkovski House (Koprivshtitsa) 597
Avenue Mall (Zagreb) 480, 481 Lithuania 70 Benois, Alexandre 159
Avis 23, 217, 281, 479, 569, 607 Montenegro 516 Beoizlog (Belgrade) 538
Ayazmoto 593 Moscow and St Petersburg 162 Bergl, Johann 340
Poland 218 Bernardine Church and Monastery
B Romania 570 (Wrocław) 202
Babanovac 494 Serbia 538 Berrecci, Bartolomeo 193
Babenberg Dynasty 381 Slovakia 316 Bey, Gazi Husrev 491
Babeş-Bolyai University (Cluj-Napoca) Slovenia 426 BH Airlines 499
565 Barth, Wilhelm 213 Bicycles see Cycling
Babino Polje 443 Bartók, Béla 322 Big Fountain of Onofrio
Bábkarska Bystrica (Puppet Festival) Basil III 139 (Dubrovnik) 434
317 Basil, St 513 Big Square (Hradec Králové) 260
Bacciarelli, Marcello 178 relics (Ostrog Monastery) 513 Bihać 495
Bachkovo Monastery 592–3 Basilian Monastery (Vilnius) 57 hotels 500
hotels 610 Basilicas restaurants 501
restaurants 611 Basilica of St Procopius (Třebíč) 274 Bijedić, Džemal 497
Baer, Karl Ernst von 115 Esztergom Basilica (Esztergom) Bilešu Paradīze (Rīga) 95
Bajloni, Ignat 529 343, 348 Birkenau see Auschwitz II
Bakony Regional Folk House Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 37, 464–5 Biron, Ernst Johann 88, 89
(Veszprém) 355 St Anne’s Basilica (Liepāja) 87 Bišćević House (Mostar) 497
Bakouriani, Abbasi 592 St George’s Basilica and Convent Biševo 453
Bakouriani, Grigori 592 (Prague) 229, 230–31 Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa Island) 111
Bakst, Léon 159 St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 338, Bishop’s Complex (Salona) 450
Balaton Festival 358 376, 377 Bishop’s Palace (Eger) 368, 370
Balaton Museum (Keszthely) 358 Bassano, Leandro da 454, 455 Bishop’s Palace (Győr) 351
Balatonberény 356 The Bather (Renoir) 473 Bishop’s Palace (Novi Sad) 532
Balatonfenyves 356 Baths (Salona) 450 Bishop’s Palace (Pécs) 362
Balatonföldvár 357 Batthyány, Josef (Archbishop) Bishop’s Palace (Székesfehérvár) 350
Balatonmáriafürdő 356 293, 294 Bishop’s Residence (Euphrasian
Balatonszemes 357 Battle of Grünwald (Matejko) 48, 183 Basilica) 464
Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople 600 Battles see by name Bistritsa Palace (Borovets) 590
Baldwin’s Tower (Veliko Turnovo) 600 Bażanka, Kacper 189 Bites Blūza Klubs (Rīga) 95
Bálint Balassa Museum Beaches Bix (Vilnius) 70, 71
(Esztergom) 349 Beach (Peter and Paul Fortress) 144 Black Church (Braşov) 555
Ballet see Dance Jūrmala 86 Black Madonna of Częstochowa 340
The Ballets Russes 159 Liepāja Beach 87 Black Tower (České Budĕjovice)
Balti Jaam (Tallinn) 117 Montenegro 507 270–71
Baltic Beach (Curonian Spit National Sunny Beach 605 Blacksmiths’ Museum (Klaipėda) 64
Park) 66 Bear Tower (Jajce) 495 Blaise, St 434, 438
The Baltic Times 119 Beethoven Frieze (Klimt) 387 Blato (Korčula) 445
Ban Berislavic (Meštrović) 457 Beethoven, Ludwig van 158 Blaž of Trogir 444
Banat Museum (Timişoara) 561 Behrens, Peter 147 Bled 416–17
Banking and Currency 19 Beit Bella Synagogue (Tallinn) 34 hotels 428
Bosnia and Herzegovina 498 Béla III, King 474 map 417
Bulgaria 606 Hungarian National Gallery 328 restaurants 429
Croatia 478 tomb of (Mátyás Church, Bled Castle (Bled) 396, 416
Czech Republic 280 Budapest) 331 Bled Island (Bled) 416–17
Estonia 116 Béla IV, King 326, 343, 471 Bled Rafting 427
Hungary 374 Béla Tower (Mátyás Church, Blocke, Abraham van den 214
Latvia 92 Budapest) 330 Blocke, Izaak van den 212, 214
Lithuania 68 Royal Palace (Visegrád) 347 Bloody Sunday (1905) 147
Montenegro 514 St Stephen’s Cathedral Bloody Tower (Herceg Novi) 509
Moscow and St Petersburg 160 (Székesfehérvár) 350 Blue Line 479
Poland 216 Béla Tower (Mátyás Church, Blue Note Club (Poznan) 218, 219
Romania 568 Budapest) 330 Bninski, Bishop Andrzej 206
Serbia 536 Bélapátfalva 366 Boat travel 23
Slovakia 315 Belgrade 395, 524–31 Croatia 479
Slovenia 424 airport 537 Estonia 117
Vienna 388 hotels 539 Latvia 93
Ban’s Palace (Zagreb) 468 itinerary 11 Lithuania 69
Banská Bystrica 306 map 524–5 Montenegro 515
puppet festival 317 restaurants 540–41 Moscow and St Petersburg 161
restaurants 319 Belgrade, Battle of 344 Poland 217
614 GENERAL INDEX
Casa del Havana (Bratislava) 316, 317 Catenaci, Jan 204, 206 Cathedrals (cont.)
Casagrande, Marco 368 Cathedral Square (Vilnius) 54 St Michael’s Cathedral
Casimir IV, King of Poland 53 Cathedrals (Veszprém) 354
Casimir, St 53 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) St Nicholas’s Cathedral (České
Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 58 13, 109 Budéjovice) 271
Vilnius Cathedral 45 Cathedral of the Annunciation St Nicholas’s Cathedral (Ljubljana)
Casino Aladins (Rīga) 94, 95 (Moscow) 129, 131 402, 404
Častá 299 Cathedral of the Archangel (Moscow) St Peter’s Cathedral (Pécs) 362
Castle Gate and Museum 129, 131 St Stephen’s Cathedral
(Veszprém) 354 Cathedral of the Assumption (Székesfehérvár) 350
Castle Museum (Klaipėda) 64 of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) St Tryphon’s Cathedral (Kotor) 510
Castle Park (Cēsis) 91 467, 470 St Vitus’s Cathedral (Prague) 10, 38,
Castle Square (Prague) 231 Cathedral of the Assumption 228, 232–3
Castle Theatre (Český Krumlov) 273 (Koper) 410 St Wenceslas Cathedral
Castles and Fortresses 32–3 Cathedral of the Assumption (Olomouc) 279
Arneri Castle (Blato) 445 (Moscow) 126, 129, 130–31 Stephansdom (Vienna) 10, 386
Barbican and City Walls (Warsaw) 177 Cathedral of the Assumption Vilnius Cathedral 52–3
Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa Island) 111 (Varaždin) 474 Catherine I, Empress
Bled Castle (Bled) 398, 416 Cathedral of the Assumption Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 109
Bojnice Castle 304–5 (Varna) 602 Summer Palace (St Petersburg) 156
Bokar Fort (Dubrovnik) 439 Cathedral of Christ the Redeemer Catherine II, Empress 89, 124
Bory Castle (Székesfehérvár) 350 (Moscow) 138–9 The Bronze Horseman 146
Bran Castle 33, 542, 556–7 Cathedral of the Holy Ghost (Hradec Classical Art 152
Bratislava Castle 295, 299 Králové) 260 French and English Art 153
Castle of the Teutonic Cathedral of St Anastasia (Zadar) 459 The Hermitage 148–9
Knights (Toruń) 209 Cathedral of St Bartholomew St Catherine’s Church (Pärnu) 112
Devín Castle 299 (Plzen) 268–9 Summer Garden (St Petersburg) 156
Eger Castle 370–71 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split) 449 Cava, Onofrio della 434, 438
Fort of St John (Dubrovnik) 437, 439 Cathedral of St Euphemia Caves
Forte Mare Castle (Herceg Novi) 509 (Rovinj) 463 Anna Cave (Bükk National Park) 367
Fortifications on the Wawel (Krakow) Cathedral of St John the Baptist Cave (Predjama Castle) 409
190, 191 (Maribor) 422 Postojna Caves 408–9
Jurisics Castle (Kőszeg) 353 Cathedral of St John the Baptist Resava Cave (Despotovac) 534
Kaiserhaus Castle (Poznań) 207 (Trnava) 302–3 Riežupe Sand Caves (Kuldīga) 86
Kalemegdan Fortress (Belgrade) 11, Cathedral of St John the Baptist Škocjan Caves 410
33, 395, 526–7 (Wrocław) 200 Subalyuk Cave 367
Kamerlengo Castle and St Mark’s Cathedral of St John (Warsaw) Cavtat 392–3, 441
Tower (Trogir) 457 176, 178 Ceauseşcu, Nicolae (President) 41, 544,
Karlštejn Castle 32 Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) 456 546, 548, 561
Kaunas Castle 62 Cathedral of St Mark (Korčula Communist Party Headquarters
Klaipėda 64 Town) 444 (Bucharest) 551
Krumlov Castle (Český Krumlov) 273 Cathedral of St Mary the Great Palace of Parliament (Bucharest)
Ljubljana Castle 403, 404 (Rab) 462 548–9
Lower Castle (Vilnius) 54 Cathedral of St Stephen (Hvar) 454 Stavropoleos Church (Bucharest) 550
Malbork Castle 32, 209 Cathedral of St Vitus (Rijeka) 462 Çelebi, Evliya 334
Maribor Castle 422 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Celetná Ulice (Prague) 243, 246
Mikulov Castle 275 Paul (Brno) 276 Cellini (Bucharest) 570, 571
Museum of Weapons and Town Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Cemeteries
Fortifications (Bratislava) 295 (Kaunas) 62–3 Municipal Cemetery (Varaždin) 475
New Castle (Sigulda) 90 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 250
Outer Walls (Salona) 450 (St Petersburg) 145 Remu’h Cemetery (Krakow) 195
Peleş Castle 395, 545, 558–9 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 12, 80 Central Eastern Europe 166–391
Peter and Paul Fortress (St Dubrovnik Cathedral 11, 436, 438–9 map 168–9
Petersburg) 13, 144–5 Eger Cathedral (Eger) 368 Central European Time (CET) 16
Petrovaradin Fortress (Novi Sad) 532–3 Evangelical Cathedral (Sibiu) 560 Central Market (Rīga) 94, 95
Prague Castle 222, 228–9 Győr Cathedral 351 Central Market Hall (Budapest)
Predjama Castle 409 Krakow Cathedral 11, 184, 376, 377
Przemysław Castle (Poznań) 205 190, 192–3 Central Railway Station (Rīga) 93
Ptuj Castle 423 Orthodox Cathedral (Belgrade) Centromerkur Building (Ljubljana) 405
Râşnov Fortress 557 11, 529 Centrotrans 499
Red Stone Castle 299 Orthodox Cathedral (Braşov) 555 Cepelia (Poland) 218, 219
Revelin Fort (Dubrovnik) 439 Orthodox Cathedral (Cluj-Napoca) Ceramics
Rīga Castle 12, 80–81 564, 564–5 Czech Republic 282
Royal Castle (Warsaw) 174, 176, 178 Orthodox Cathedral (Timişoara) 561 Hungary 376
Sárvár Castle 353 Orthodox Cathedral of the Ceresola, Venerio 329
Spiš Castle 310–11 Resurrection of Christ Černigoj, Avgust 406
Suceava Fortress (Suceava) 567 (Podgorica) 506 Cēsis 91
Toompea Castle (Tallinn) 109 Poznań Cathedral 207 hotels 96
Trakai Island Castle 33, 46, 60–61 St Barbara’s Cathedral restaurants 97
Travnik Fortress 487, 494 (Kutná Hora) 258–9 České Budéjovice 270–71
Trsat Castle (Rijeka) 462 St Basil’s Cathedral (Moscow) 38, 45, map 271
Tsarevets (Veliko Turnovo) 33, 600–601 132, 134–5 České Dráhy (ČD) 281
Tvrđa Fortress (Osijek) 32, 39, 476 St Elizabeth’s Cathedral (Košice) 312 České Švýcarsko 168, 262–3
Tvrdalj (Stari Grad) 455 St George’s Cathedral (Piran) 411 Český Krumlov 225, 272–3
Tvrđava (Niš) 535 St Isaac’s Cathedral (St Petersburg) hotels 284
Upper Castle (Spiš Castle) 311 125, 146 map 273
Upper Castle (Vilnius) 49, 54 St James’s Cathedral (Rīga) 81 restaurants 285
Vajdahunyad Castle (Budapest) 343 St Joseph’s Cathedral (Liepāja) 87 Český Porcelán (Prague) 282, 283
Varaždin Castle (Varaždin) 474 St Martin’s Cathedral (Bratislava) Cetinje 511
Walls (Dubrovnik) 434 296–7 hotels 517
Wawel Royal Castle (Krakow) 190, St Martin’s Cathedral (Spišská restaurants 518
193, 208 Kapitula) 310 Cetinje Monastery (Cetinje) 511
Znojmo Castle (Znojmo) 274 St Mary’s Cathedral (Novi Sad) 532 Četri Balti Krekli (Rīga) 94, 95
616 GENERAL INDEX
Dance of Death (John of Kastav) 411 Dmitry, Tsarevich (son of Ivan the Eberle, Jakob 264
Dance Macabre (Notke) 38, 107 Terrible) 129 Eckerö Line 117
Dannenstern House (Rīga) 83 Dobó, István 370 Eco Tours (Kolasin) 516
Danov, Hristo 594 Dobó Bastion (Eger Castle) 370 Ecolines 93, 117, 161
La Danse (Matisse) 151 Dokkoló (Budapest) 377 Edvard Grieg and M. K. Čiurlionis
Danube Delta 567 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 470, 480, 481 Festival 71
Danube Museum (Esztergom) 349 Doll and Waxwork Museum Eesti Muusikafestivalid 119
Danube river 321 (Keszthely) 359 Eger 368–71
Dark Corridor (The Winter Palace) 155 Dolphinarium, Sea Gardens (Varna) 603 hotels 378
Dawe, George 155 Dom Farfora (Moscow) 162, 163 map 369
Dayton Agreement 41, 486 Doma Antikvariāts (Rīga) 94, 95 restaurants 379
Dead Dunes (Curonian Spit National Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 12, 80 Egon Schiele Centre (Český
Park) 67 Dominic, St 440 Krumlov) 272
Deák, Ferenc 338 Dominican Church of Our Lady of Eisenstein, Mikhail 40
Debelyanov, Dimcho 596 Victory (Vác) 347 Elaphite Isles 440–41
Debelyanov House (Koprivshtitsa) 596 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik) 11, Elelson, Zalman 84
Debrecen 372 437, 440 Elisabeth of Bavaria, Empress of Austria
Debrecen Jazz Festival 377 Dominican Monastery (Stari Grad) 455 (Winterhalter) 384
Dĕdeček, V 298 Dominican Monastery (Tallinn) Elizabeth II, Queen 508
Déjà Vu (Tallinn) 118, 119 105, 107 Elizabeth, Empress 112
Delacroix, Eugène 584 Dominican Monastery and Church of Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary 332
Delta (car rental) 515 the Sacrifice of the Virgin (České Elizabeth, Queen of Romania 558
Delta Airlines 20, 21, 375, 388, 389 Budéjovice) 270 Elizabeth, Tsarina 154
Demetrius, St 601 Dominican Museum (Dubrovnik) 440 Embarrassing Proposal (Watteau) 153
The Demon (Lermontov) 140 Domodedovo (Moscow) 161 Embassies and Consulates
Demon Seated (Vrubel) 140 Domšaitis, Pranas 65 Bosnia and Herzegovina 499
Denev, Boris 598 Don Giovanni (Mozart) 251, 386 Bulgaria 607
DenRus 160, 161 Donner, George Raphael 444 Croatia 479
Depo (Rīga) 94, 95 Dorffmaister, István 353 Czech Republic 281
Deposition (Trogiranin) 462 Dorffman (Moscow) 162, 163 Estonia 117
Déri, Frigyes 372 Dormition of the Virgin (Sopoćani Hungary 375
Déry, Tibor 323 Monastery) 535 Latvia 93
Desa, Duke 442 Dorotheum (Prague) 282, 283 Lithuania 69
The Descent of the Holy Ghost Dorothy, St 203 Moscow and St Petersburg 161
(Notke) 106 Dostoevsky, Fyodor 147 Poland 217
Despotovac 534 Dracula see Vlad Tepeş Romania 569
Devil’s Museum (Kaunas) 63 Dracula’s Castle see Bran Castle Serbia 537
Devín Castle 299 Dragalevtsi Monastery Slovakia 315
Dezsó, Laczkó 355 (Mount Vitosha) 585 Slovenia 425
Dezsó Kosztolányi Theatre Dragon Surf Club (Ulcinj) 516 Vienna 388
(Subotica) 538 Dragoval, Hrelyo 589 Emergency Clinic Hospitals (Romania)
Diaghilev, Sergey 159 Drašković Palace (Varaždin) 474 568, 569
Dialling codes 18 Drava river 423, 476 Emergency Medical Service (Sarajevo)
The Diamond (Postojna Caves) 408 Dreyer, Johann Benjamin 214 498, 499
Diana Viewpoint (Karlovy Vary) 265 Drink see Food and Drink Emergency numbers
The Diary of a Madman (Gogol) 147 Driving license 23, 93, 117, 281 Bosnia and Herzegovina 499
Diderot, Denis 147 Druga Godba (Ljubljana) 426, 427 Bulgaria 607
Dientzenhofer, Christoph 238, 239 Drûzhki (Intrepid) 603 Croatia 479
Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz 238, 239 Dual Monarchy of Austria-Hungary Czech Republic 281
Church of St Mary Magdalene 322, 338 Estonia 117
(Karlovy Vary) 264 Dubrovnik 30, 433, 434–40, 442 Hungary 375
Kinský Palace (Prague) 242 airport 479 Latvia 93
Minorite Church (Eger) 369 hotels 482 Lithuania 69
Dientzenhofer family 239 itinerary 11 Montenegro 515
Dietrich, Josef 270 map 435 Moscow and St Petersburg 161
Dimitrov-Maistora, Vladimir 581, 594 restaurants 483 Poland 217
Diocletian, Emperor 37 Street-by-Street map: Old Town Romania 569
emblem of 449 436–7 Serbia 537
Palace of (Split) 448–9 Dubrovnik Summer Festival 481 Slovakia 315
Dionysios of Syracuse 453 Ducal Palace (Trakai Island Castle) 61 Slovenia 425
Dionysius (icon painter) 131 Ducal Palace (Vilnius) 54 Vienna 388
Disabled People’s National Council Đukanović, Mizo (President) 504 Emihls Gustavs Chocolate (Rīga) 94, 95
(Poland) 216, 217 Duna-Ipoly National Park (Hungary) 347 Emperor Karl VI Gate (Kalemegdan
Disabled travellers 17 Dunes, Shifting 67 Fortress) 527
Bosnia and Herzegovina 498 Dürer, Albrecht 342 Emperor’s Mosque (Sarajevo) 492
Bulgaria 606 Durmitor National Park Encijan Mountain Association 499
Croatia 478 (Montenegro) 511 Enescu, George 551
Czech Republic 280 Durunger, Hans 213 Engineer’s House (Peter and Paul
Estonia 116 Dušan, Stefan 521, 530 Fortress) 145
Hungary 374 Dutch art, and the Hermitage 153 Engler, Michael 278
Latvia 92 Dutch Windmill (Latvian Ethnographic English art, and the Hermitage 153
Lithuania 68 Open-Air Museum) 85 English Gardens (Festetics Palace) 360
Montenegro 514 Dvorzsák, Ede 342 Entertainment see Shopping and
Poland 216 Działyński Palace (Poznań) 205 Entertainment
Romania 568 Dzintara Galerija (Rīga) 94, 95 Eötvös, Baron József 338
Serbia 536 Dzintara Muzejs (Rīga) 94, 95 Episcopal Church (Curtea de
Slovakia 314–15 Argeş) 555
Slovenia 424 E Erdödy, Toma Bakac 470
Vienna 388 Ea Haere Ia Oe (Gauguin) 151 Erkel, Ferenc 338
Distant Chords (Meštrović) 447 Early Christian Mausoleum (Pécs) 362 Erkel Theatre (Budapest) 376, 377
Divadelná Nitra Festival (Nitra) 317 East Slovak Museum (Košice) 313 Erpet Bohemia (Prague) 282, 283
Diving Association of Montenegro 516 easyJet 20, 21, 93, 117, 217, 281, 425, ESSE Jazz Club (Moscow) 162, 163
Djavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town, Serbia) 535 479, 607 Estates Theatre (Prague) 251, 283
GENERAL INDEX 619
Esterházy, Bishop Károly 368 Fat Mo’s (Budapest) 376, 377 Folk Art, Hungary 376
Esterházy, Count Miklós 302 Father and Son Statue (Tartu) 115 Folk Festivals
Esterházy family 342, 351 Fazola, Henrik 368–9 Bulgaria 609
Esterházy Palace (Fertőd) 351 Feigler, I, Jr 298 Estonia 119
Estonia 98–121 Fellner, Ferdinand 208, 264, 265, 298, Slovakia 317
history 99–100 364, 472, 565 Folk Music
hotels 120 Fellner, Jakab 354 Croatia 481
language and culture 100 Felső-Borovnyák 367 Poland 219
map: Exploring Estonia 101 Felsőtárkány 366 Folk-Folk (Bratislava) 316, 317
restaurants 121 Feniks Store (Wrocław) 202 Folkart Centrum (Budapest) 376, 377
shopping and entertainment 118–19 Feodosius (monk) 131 Folkart Kézművesház (Budapest) 376, 377
travel 116–17 Ferdinand I, Emperor 321 Folkloorifestival (Vŏru) 119
Estonian Air 117 Ferdinand II, Emperor 230, 237 Folklore Days Festival (Koprivshtitsa,
Estonian History Museum (Tallinn) 106 Church of St Giles 251 Bulgaria) 609
Estonian Maritime Museum Executions in the Old Town Folly, Róbert 355
(Tallinn) 108 Square 244 Fontaine, Pierre 206
Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs 116 Ferdinand II, King of Aragon 34 Fontaine Palace (Liepāja) 94, 95
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Ferdinand III 247 Fontana, Giovanni 146
Design (Tallinn) 108 Ferdinand, Tsar 583 Fonyód 357
Estonian Music Academy (Tallinn) 119 Ferenc Liszt Academy of Music Food and Drink
Estonian National Museum (Tartu) 115 (Budapest) 376, 377 Bulgaria 608
Esztergom 348–9 Ferenc Liszt Airport (Budapest) 375 Croatia 480
map 349 Ferenc Nádasdy Museum (Sárvár) 353 Czech Republic 282
Esztergom Basilica (Esztergom) 348 Ferenczy, Károly 344 Estonia 118
Esztergom Castle Festival 348 Fernkorn, Dominik 470 Hungary 376
Ethnographic Collection (Koper) 410 Ferramolino, Antonio 439 Latvia 94
Ethnographic Museum (Belgrade) 11, Ferrari, Pompeo 204 Lithuania 70
528, 538 Ferries see Boat travels Montenegro 516
Ethnographic Museum (Sofia) 581 Ferry Terminal (Rīga) 93 Moscow and St Petersburg 162
shop 608, 609 Fertő-Hanság National Park 352 Poland 218
Ethnographic Museum (Varna) 602 Fertőd 351 Romania 570
Ethnographic Museum (Wrocław) 203 Festetics, György 359, 361 Serbia 538
Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania Festetics, Kristóf 361 Slovakia 316
(Cluj-Napoca) 564 Festetics Palace (Keszthely) 358, 360–61 Slovenia 426
Etnobutik Mara (Zagreb) 480, 481 Festival of Dubrovnik 438 Vienna 389
Etnogalerija Skrina (Ljubljana) 426, 427 Festivals see also Restaurants
Eugene Onegin (Pushkin) 157 Croatia 481 The Foreign Book Store (Moscow)
Eugene of Savoy, Prince 327, 382 Estonia 100 162, 163
Euphemia, St 463 Montenegro 516 The Foreign Ministry (Moscow) 136
Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 37, 464–5 Poland 219 Forest Trails (Curonian Spit National
Euphrasius, Bishop 464 Romania 571 Park) 67
Eurail 22, 23 Serbia 538 Forman, Miloš 251
Euro, the 19 Slovenia 426 Former Kaiser District (Poznań) 207
Eurolines 23, 93, 117, 281, 388, 389 Feszl, Frigyes 339, 341 Former Synagogue (Hradec Králové) 261
Euromed 160, 161 Fialka, Olga 344 Former Synagogue (Košice) 313
Europcar (car rental) 23, 569, 607 Ficheto, Kolyo 598, 599 Förster, Ludwig 341
Europe avenija (Osijek) 476 Fidlovaćka (Kajetán Tyl) 251 Fort of St John (Dubrovnik) 437, 439
European art, the Hermitage 153 The Field Marshals’ Hall (The Winter Forte Mare Castle (Herceg Novi) 509
European Commission 68, 69 Palace) 155 Fortifications on the Wawel (Krakow)
European Danube Commission 567 Fighting Giants (Platzer) 228 190, 191
European Health Insurance Card Filaret, Patriarch 130 Forum (Salona) 451
(EHIC) 216 Filaret Bus Station (Bucharest) 569 Forum (Zadar) 458
European Medical Centre 160, 161 Filharmonia Baltycka (Gdańsk) 219 Fountain of the Three Rivers of Carniola
European Rail Passes (Eurail) 375 Films see Cinemas (Ljubljana) 403, 405
European Union (EU) 16, 41 Finnair 69, 93, 117 Fragonard, Jean Honoré,
Europebyair 21 Finta, József 339 The Stolen Kiss 153
Euzebiusz, Canon 340 Fioravanti, Aristotele 130 Franchioli, Enrico 159
Evangelical Cathedral (Sibiu) 560 Fiorentino, Francisco 193 Francis I, Emperor 294, 408
Evksinograd Palace (Varna) 603 The Fire (Rusev) 594 Francis, St 477
Executioner’s Bastion (Košice) 313 Firentinac, Nikola 454, 457 Franciscan Church (Bratislava) 293, 294
Executions in the Old Town Square Firewatch Tower (Sopron) 352 Franciscan Church (Keszthely) 358
(Prague) 244 Firework Display at the Castel Franciscan Church (Ljubljana) 405
Exhibition of Antique Machinery Sant’Angelo (Wright) 153 Franciscan Church of the Annunciation
(Jūrmala) 86 First Balkan War (1912) 576 (Ljubljana) 402
EXIT Festival (Novi Sad) 533, 538 First Serbian Uprising 39 Franciscan Church of St Anthony
Exodus 21 Fischer von Erlach, Johann Bernhard (Sarajevo) 492
Expedia 21 39, 246, 276, 387 Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik) 435
Explore 21 Fischer von Erlach, Josef Franciscan Monastery (Hvar) 454–5
Expresszó Club (Budapest) 377 Emanuel 343, 384 Franciscan Monastery and Church of
“Fishing and Fishermen’s Conversation” the Assumption (Plzeň) 266–7
(Hektorović) 455 Franciscan Museum (Dubrovnik) 435
F Flagellation of Christ (Tintoretto) 230 Franciscan Square (Bratislava) 291, 292
Fabrique (Moscow) 162, 163 U Flekű (Prague) 255 Frangeš-Mihanović, Robert 476
Fabritius, Carel 183 Flemalle, Master of 153 Franja Partisan Hospital (Idrija) 412
Faceted Palace (The Kremlin, Moscow) Flemish art, and the Hermitage 153 Frankopan, Martin 462
129, 131 Florentine Hall (Peleş Castle) 558 Franz Ferdinand, Archduke 40, 486, 492
Fadrusz, János 326 Florian Gate (Krakow) 187 Franz Joseph I, Emperor 275, 322,
Făgăraş Mountains 543 Fly Niki 388, 389 386, 405
hiking in 554 Fő Square (Keszthely) 358 Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest) 340
Falconet, Etienne 146 Fő Square (Szentendre) 344 Naturhistorisches Museum (Vienna)
Falconi, Giovanni Battista 189 Fokine, Mikhail 159 385
Falcon’s Nest (České Švýcarsko) 262 Fold Bastion Waxworks State Apartments (Hofburg Complex,
Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 13, 108 (Eger Castle) 370 Vienna) 383, 384
620 GENERAL INDEX
Franz Joseph II, Emperor 288 German Railways (Deutsche Great Synagogue (Plzeň) 266
Convent of St Agnes 247 Bahn) 22, 23 Great Theatre (Warsaw) 219
Museum of West Slovakia Geza, Prince 350 El Greco 473
(Trnava) 301 Gheorghiu-Dej, Gheorghe 544, 548 The Apostles Peter and Paul 153
Strahov Monastery 236 Ghetto Uprising of 1943 (Warsaw) 182 Head of Christ 235
Frederick, King of Bohemia 230 Gift shops Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest) 342
Fredro, Aleksander 203 Croatia 480 National Art Museum (Bucharest) 552
Freedom Square (Brno) 276 Montenegro 516 Green House see Holocaust Museum
Freitag, Rudolf 215 Poland 218 Green Visions 499
French art, and the Hermitage 153 Romania 570 Griboedov (St Petersburg) 162, 163
Fresco Gallery (Belgrade) 524, 528 Serbia 538 Grieži (Rīga) 94, 95
Freud, Sigmund 35, 387 Slovenia 426 The Griffin’s Talons 215
Freud Museum (Vienna) 387 Vienna 389 Grigorescu, Nicolae
Friazin, Marco Bon 130 Giordano, Luca 153 Art and Ethnographic Museum
Friedrich III 384 Giovane, Palma il 441, 452 (Braşov) 555
Friends (Prague) 283 St Diego 454 Art Museum (Cluj-Napoca) 564
Frycz, Karol 187 St Francis receiving the Stigmata 454 Museum of Art Collections
Fugger, Anton 299 Virgin and Saints 454 (Bucharest) 552
Fuggers family 299 Giovanni, Pietro di 441 National Art Museum and Royal
Furriers’ Tower (Sighişoara) 563 Gizella, Queen 354 Palace (Bucharest) 552
Fürstenberg, Bedřich (Archbishop) 279 Gizella Chapel (Veszprém) 354 National Brukenthal Museum
Glacial lakes (Făgăraş Mountains) 554 (Sibiu) 560
G Glass Grohar, Ivan 40
Gagarin, Yuriy 41, 133 Czech Republic 282 Groppelli, Marino 436
Galeria Krakowska (Krakow) 218, 219 Hungary 376 Gross, Friedrich 202
Galerii Kaks (Tallinn) 118, 119 Glass of Lemonade (Terborch) 153 Grossschmidt, H 112
Galerija Idrijske Čipke Glaubitz, Jan Krzysztof 55 Grünanger, Friedrich 580
(Ljubljana) 426, 427 Gočár, Josef 246, 260 Grünwald (Žalgiris), Battle of 47
Galerija Rogaška (Ljubljana) 426, 427 Gode, L’udovit 293 Guča Trumpet Festival 538
Galleries see Museums and Galleries Gödöllő 346 Gucci, Santi 193
Galleron, Albert 551 Godunov, Tsar Boris 130 Gučetić, Ivan 440
Gameren, Tylman van 179, 182 Gogh, Vincent Van 153 GUM (Moscow) 133
Gan, David 250 Gogol, Nikolai 139, 158 GUnaGU (Bratislava) 317
The Garden of Eden (Savery) 235 The Diary of a Madman 147 Gurowski, Władysław, Grand
Gardens see Parks and Gardens Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa 147 Marshal of Lithuania 205
Gariūnai (Vilnius) 70, 71 The Nose 147 Gustav II Adolph, King of
Gartner, Jakub 300 Gold Drawing Room Sweden 112, 114
Gas Chambers and Crematoria (Winter Palace) 155 Győr 351
(Auschwitz I) 196 Gold Hall (Rundāle Palace) 88 Györgyi, Dénes 358
Gate 1 21 Golden Chapel (Poznań Cathedral) 207 Gypsy Theatre (Moscow) 163
Gate of Hercules (Pula) 463 Golden Gate (Palace of Diocletian,
Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 57, 58–9 Split) 449
Gateway Travel 21 Golden Hall (Bojnice Castle) 304 H
Gatwick Airport 607 Golden Portal (St Vitus’s Cathedral, Haffner, Jean Georges 209
Gauguin, Paul 151 Prague) 233 Hahn, Hermann 212
Ea Haere Ia Oe 151 Golden Sands 577, 604 Hajós, Alfréd 372
The Great Buddha 138 Golden Unicorn Pharmaceutical Hajruddin, Mimar 496
Gauja National Park 27, 75, 90–91 Museum (Kőszeg) 353 Hala Targowa (Gdańsk) 218, 219
map 90–91 Goldfish (Matisse) 138 Halės Market (Vilnius) 70, 71
Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque Goldmark, Karl 358 The Hall of St George (The Winter
(Sarajevo) 491 Goncharova, Natalya 138 Palace) 155
Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque/Inner City Gorbachev, Mikhail (President) Hamam and Tabhana Turkish Baths
Parish Church (Pécs) 363 41, 76, 123 (Mostar) 496
Gdańsk 210–15 The Goreljek Peat-Bog Nature Trail Hamlets (Rīga) 95
hotels 220 (Triglav National Park) 419 Hamvay, Ferenc 346
map 210–11 Gorky, Maxim 133, 139 Hamzić, Mihajlo 438
restaurants 221 Gorky Park (film) 139 Handicrafts
Gdańsk Crane 213 Gorky Park (Moscow) 139 Bulgaria 608
Gdańsk Ferry Terminal 217 Gorodetskiy, Prokhor 131 Croatia 480
Gediminas, Grand Duke 54 Gostinyy Dvor (St Petersburg) 162, 163 Czech Republic 282
Gellért, Bishop (St) 332, 339 Gothic Library (The Winter Palace) 155 Estonia 118
Gellért Hill (Budapest) 332–3 Gothic Room (Bran Castle) 557 Latvia 94
Street-by-Street map 332–3 Gotovac, Tomislav 473 Lithuania 70
Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex Goya y Lucientes, Francisco de 342 Moscow and St Petersburg 162
(Budapest) 333, 334–5 Graff, Johann Michael 89 Poland 218
General Staff Building Grand Ducal burial vault (Peter and Serbia 538
(St Petersburg) 147 Paul Fortress) 144 Slovakia 316
Generalić, Ivan, Woodcutters 472 Grand Hotel (Sopot) 209 Slovenia 426
Genialistide Klubi (Tartu) 118, 119 Grassalkovich I, Antal 346 Handke, Christoph 200
Genocide and Resistance Research Great Armoury (Gdańsk) 213 Hanging Gardens
Centre of Lithuania 59 The Great Buddha (Gauguin) 138 (The Hermitage) 149
George of Brandenburg, Prince 474 Great Capitals 28–9 Hannibal, Abram 157
George Enescu Memorial Museum Great Catholic Church Harley Davidson (Bratislava)
(Bucharest) 551 (Kecskemét) 364 316, 317
George Enescu Philharmonic Great Guild Hall (Tallinn) 106 Hasenauer, Karl von 385, 386
Orchestra 551 Great Hall of the Philharmonia Hauptman House (Ljubljana) 405
George, St 132 (St Petersburg) 163 Hauser, Eduard 477
George the Warrior, St 129 Great Kremlin Palace (The Kremlin) Hauszmann, Alajos 327
Georgikon Farm Museum 125, 128 Havel, Václav 253
(Keszthely) 359 Great Mill (Gdańsk) 212 Havel Market (Prague) 282, 283
Gerlachovský Štít (Tatra Great Reformed Church Haydn, Joseph 351
Mountains) 307 (Debrecen) 372 Haydn Festival 351
German art, and the Hermitage 153 Great Synagogue (Budapest) 34, 341 Head of Christ (El Greco) 235
GENERAL INDEX 621
Health and Security 17 Hipokrat Pharmacy (Plovdiv) 594 House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 87
Bosnia and Herzegovina 498 Historic Cities 30–31 House of the Golden Sun
Bulgaria 606 Historical Museum (Krakow) 187 (Wrocław) 202
Croatia 478 Historical Museum (Moscow) 132 House of Hungarian Wines (Budapest)
Czech Republic 280 Historical Museum of Poznań 376, 377
Estonia 116 (Poznań) 205 House of the Little Monkey (Veliko
Hungary 374 History 36–41 Tûrnovo) 598
Latvia 92 see also countries by name House of Master Pavol of Levoča
Lithuania 68 History Museum (Braşov) 555 (Levoča) 308
Montenegro 514 History Museum (Melnik) 591 House of the Nuns of Trebnica
Moscow and St Petersburg 160 History Museum (Plovdiv) 595 (Wrocław) 201
Poland 216 History Museum (Sarajevo) 493 House of Palinka (Budapest) 376, 377
Romania 568 History Museum (Sibiu) 560 House of the Seven Electors
Serbia 536 History Museum (Trakai Island (Wrocław) 202
Slovakia 314 Castle) 61 Hradec Králové 260–61
Slovenia 424 History Museum of Latvia (Rīga Castle) map 261
Vienna 388 80–81 Hradec Králové Research Library 261
Heathrow Airport 607 History Museum of Lithuania Minor Hrastovlje 411
Hebenstreit, József 340 (Klaipėda) 64 Hrelyo’s Tower (Rila Monastery) 589
Hefele, Melchior 293 Hitler, Adolf 64 Hristo Danov House (Plovdiv) 594
Esterházy Palace 351 Hlavná (Košice) 312 Hrvatska Kuća Materina prića (Zagreb)
Primate’s Palace 294 Hlavné Námestie (Bratislava) 292 480, 481
Hegedûs, Ármin 334 Hlutev, Gavril see Benkovski, Georgi Hrvoje’s Tower (Split) 446
Heinsch, Jan 246 Hodler, Ferdinand 492 Hummel, Johann Nepomuk 293
Hektorović, Petar 454, 455 Hofburg Complex (Vienna) 10, 382–4 Humor 566
Hektorović Palace (Hvar) 454 Exploring the Hofburg Complex 384 Hungarian Disabled Association
Helikon Palace Museum (Festetics Hofburgkapelle (Hofburg Complex) 374, 375
Palace) 360 382, 384 Hungarian National Gallery (Budapest)
Hell Hunt (Tallinn) 118, 119 Höhne, Anton 205 13, 327, 328, 344
Hell’s Gate (Auschwitz II) 198 Holiday Innn Vilnius 71 Hungarian National Museum
Helmer, Hermann Höller, Carsten 473 (Budapest) 328, 340
Croatian National Theatre Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 59 Hungarian National Tourist Office
(Varaždin) 475 Holy Cross Chapel (Karlštejn 374, 375
Croatian National Theatre Castle) 256 Hungarian Open-Air Museum
(Zagreb) 472 Holy Cross Church (Blato) 445 (Szentendre) 346
József Katona Theatre Holy Relic of St Ivan (Rila Monastery) Hungarian Photography Museum
(Kecskemét) 364 587 (Kecskemét) 364
Karlovy Vary Theatre 264 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 13, 104, 106 Hungarian Theatre (Kosiče) 316, 317
Market Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) 264 Holy Trinity Church (Hrastovlje) 411 Hungary 320–79
National Theatre and Opera (Cluj- Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 87 history 321–2, 323
Napoca) 565 Holy Trinity Church (Trnava) 300 hotels 378
Park Spring Colonnade Holy Trinity Column (Olomouc) 278 language and culture 322–3
(Karlovy Vary) 265 Holy Trinity Monument map: Exploring Hungary 322–3
Slovak National Theatre 298 (Kecskemét) 364 restaurants 379
Wilam Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 208 Holy Trinity Square (Budapest) 329 shopping and entertainment 376–7
Hemingway (Split) 481 Holy Trinity Square (Trnava) 300 travel 374–5
Henry IV of Poland 200, 201 Homage to Prague (Špillar) 252 Hunters in the Snow (Bruegel) 385
Hen’s Foot Tower (Wawel Royal Homeland Museum (Bar) 507 Hurt, Jakob 115
Castle) 193 Homo Novus (dance festival) 95 Hus, Jan 38, 224, 242
Herăstrău Park and Lake Hörger, Anton 329 Hvar 447, 454–5
(Bucharest) 553 Horowitz, Aaron Meshulam 250 hotels 482
Herceg Novi 509 Hortobágy 373 map 454–5
restaurants 518 Hortobágy Máta Stud Farm restaurants 483
Herend (Budapest) 376, 377 (Hortobágy) 373 Hvar Town 454
Herle, Simon 214 Hortobágy National Park 373 Hybrydy (Warsaw) 218, 219
The Hermitage 13, 45, 148–55 Hotel Bristol (Warsaw) 180
collections 150–51 Hotels
gallery guide 150 Bosnia and Herzegovina 500 I
map: Exploring the Hermitage Bulgaria 610 I Love You (Rīga) 94, 95
Collections 150–51 Croatia 482 Iancu, Avram 564
Heroes’ Gate (Kőszeg) 353 Czech Republic 284 Icon of the Archangel Michael
Heroes’ Square (Budapest) 341 Estonia 120 (Cathedral of the Archangel) 131
Hertz (car rental) 23, 217, 479, 537, 569 Hungary 378 Icon Gallery (Korčula) 445
Herzegovina Museum (Mostar) 497 Latvia 96 Icon Gallery in Crypt (Aleksandûr
Herzen House-Museum (Moscow) 137 Lithuania 72 Nevski Memorial Church, Sofia) 582
Herzer Palace (Varaždin) 475 Montenegro 517 Icon Museum (Plovdiv) 594–5
Herzog, Fülöp 342 Moscow 164 Iconostasis
Herzog, Roman 179 Poland 220 Aleksandûr Nevski Memorial Church
Hetzel, Henryk 213 Romania 572 (Sofia) 583
Hevelius, Jan 212 St Petersburg 164 Bachkovo Monastery (Bulgaria) 593
High Synagogue (Krakow) 195 Serbia 539 Rila Monastery 587
Hiiu Folk Festival (Hiiumaa) 119 Slovakia 318 St Basil’s Cathedral (Moscow) 135
Hiking Slovenia 428 Identity cards 16
Făgăraş Mountains 554 Vienna 390 Idrija 412
Slovenia 427 Houdon, Jean-Antoine 151 Igalo, Healing Mud 509
Hild, János 339 House at the Good Shepherd Ignatius of Loyola, St 255
Hild, József 338, 339, 368 (Bratislava) 295 IIC Bratianu Hall, Palace of Parliament
Hildebrandt, Franz Anton 298 House of the Black Madonna (Bucharest) 548
Hildebrandt, Johann Lucas von 202 (Prague) 246 Illusion (Tartu) 118, 119
Hill of Witches (Curonian Spit National House of Blackheads (Rīga) 12, Illyria 36
Park) 67 74, 82, 84 Ilonka 326, 329
Hindliyan, Stepan 595 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 13, Imaret Mosque (Plovdiv) 595
Hindliyan House (Plovdiv) 595 104, 107 Imperial Baths (Karlovy Vary) 264
622 GENERAL INDEX
Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport 116, 117 Ljubljana (cont.) Madonna on a Crescent Moon 80
Lent (Maribor) 423 map 400–401 Madonna of Gdańsk 213
Lent Festival (Maribor) 426, 427 restaurants 429 Madonna of Mercy (Vilnius) 58
Lenuci, Milan 472 Street-by-Street map: Ljubljana Old Madonna of Ołobok 207
Leopold I, Emperor 200 Town 402–3 Madonna of Toporc 328
Leopold, Master 259 Ljubljana Bus Station 425 Mäetamm, Marko 115
Leopold Gate (Kalemegdan Ljubljana Castle 403, 404 Maggi, Baldassare 272
Fortress) 527 Ljubljana Summer Festival 407, Magyar Államvasutak (MÁV) 375
Leopold Museum (Vienna) 385 426, 427 Magyars 37
Lermontov, Mikhail 140 Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre Mahler, Gustav 338
Lesenyei, Márta 333 424, 425 Mahmudiye Mosque (Constanţa) 567
Levoča 308 Ljubljana Train Station 425 Mail services 18
hotels 318 Ljubljanica Riverbank 403 see also Communications
restaurants 319 Lobkowicz Palace (Prague Castle) 229 Main Guard House (Dubrovnik) 438
Liberation Monument (Budapest) Lobnoe Mesto (Moscow) 132 Main Market Square
324, 332 Logarska Dolina 415 (Krakow) 11, 186–7
Libraries Loggia of the Bell (Dubrovnik) 438 Main Market Square (Wrocław) 202
Festetics Palace (Keszthely) 360, 361 Loggia and Clock Tower (Trogir) 457 Main Square (Maribor) 422–3
Gothic Library (The Winter Lokrum (Dubrovnik) 440 Main Square (Olomouc) 278
Palace) 155 Lomnický Štít (Tatra Mountains) 307 Main Town Hall (Gdańsk) 214
Hradec Králové Research Library 261 Long Bazaar (Sarajevo) 491 Maisel, Mordechai 247, 249
National Library (Sarajevo) 490 Longcase Clock (Gdańsk) 215 Maisel Synagogue (Prague) 249
National and University Library Lopud (Elaphite Isles) 440, 441 Māksla XO (Rīga) 94, 95
(Ljubljana) 407 Lord’s Coffin of Garamszent Benedek, Mala Galerija (Rijeka) 480, 481
Pannonhalma Abbey 350 Christian Museum (Esztergom) Malachite Room (Winter Palace,
Peleş Castle Library 559 348–9 St Petersburg) 154
Philosophical Hall (Strahov “Lost Wawel” Exhibition (Krakow) 191 Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa (St Petersburg)
Monastery) 236 LOT Polish Airlines 20, 21 13, 147
Queen Marie’s Music Saloon and Lotrščak Tower (Zagreb) 468, 472 Malbork 32, 209
Library (Bran Castle) 556 Lotz, Károly 337 hotels 220
Raczyński Library (Poznań) 206 St Peter’s Cathedral (Pécs) 362 restaurants 221
Teleki-Bolyai Library (Târgu St Stephen’s Basilica 338 Malczewski, Jacek 183, 206, 207
Mureş) 564 State Opera House 338 Malevich, Kazimir 40, 147
Theological Hall (Strahov The Woman Bathing 328 Maliy, Petrok 130
Monastery) 26–37 Louis I the Great, King 312 Malta International Drama Festival
Liepāja 87 Louis II Jagiełło, King 288 (Poland) 219
hotels 96 Louis XIV, King 246 Malyshev, Ignatiy 157
restaurants 97 Lounge 24 (Tallinn) 118, 119 Malyy Theatre (Moscow) 162, 163
Liepāja Beach 87 Lovćen National Park 510 Mamut (Belgrade) 538
Liepāja Museum 87 Löw, Rabbi 250 The Man in Seat 61 22, 23
Liepaja Theatre 95 Lower Esztergom 349 Manasija Monastery (Despotovac) 534
Lietuvos Geležinkeliai 69 Lower Monastery (Ostrog Mangoldt, Franz Josef 200
Līgatne Education and Recreation Monastery) 512 Many Coloured Mosque (Travnik) 494
Centre (Gauja National Park) 91 Lubrański Academy (Poznań) 206–7 Maps
Ligeti, Miklós 341 Lubrański, Jan (Bishop) 207 Auschwitz I 196–7
Light Show (Veliko Turnovo) 600 LÚČ Vydavatelské Družstvo Auschwitz II 198–9
Likovni Susret Gallery (Subotica) 533 (Bratislava) 316, 317 Belgrade 524–5
Lime Lounge (Pärnu) 118, 119 Lucas Cranach the Elder 153 Belgrade: Kalemegdan
Line of Life (Bely) 136 Lucerna Palace (Prague) 253 Fortress 526–7
Linen & Amber Studio (Vilnius) 70, 71 Luchian, Štefan 552, 564 Bled 417
Lion Gate (Budapest) 326 Lucić, Hannibal 454 Bosnia and Herzegovina: Exploring
Lipica 412 Ludmila, Princess 230 Bosnia and Herzegovina 487
Lipica Stud Farm (Lipica) 412 Ludmila, St 229 Brač 452
Lipizzaner horses 366, 412 Lueger, Erazem 409 Bratislava 290–91
Liptovský Hrádok 306 Lufthansa 69, 93, 117, 217, 281, 315, Bratislava: Old Town 292–3
Liptovský Mikuláš 306 375, 479, 499 Brno 277
Lisco 93 Luitgard, St 241 Bucharest 546–7
Liszt, Franz 322, 338, 339, 362 Lukačić, Ivan 446 Bucovina Monasteries Tour 566
Lithuania 27, 46–73 Luke, St 462 Budapest 324–5
history 47–8 Lumbarda (Korčula) 445 Budapest: Gellért Hill 332–3
hotels 72 Lurago, Anselmo 239 Budapest: The Royal Palace 326–7
language and culture 48 Lurago, Carlo 255, 260 Bükk National Park 366–7
map: Exploring Lithuania 49 Luttringer, Andreas 292 Bulgaria: Exploring Bulgaria 577
restaurants 73 Luzhkov, Yuriy 138 Central Eastern Europe
shopping and entertainment 70–71 Lyceum (Eger) 368 at a Glance 168–9
travel 68–9 Lydia Koidula Museum (Pärnu) 113 České Budéjovice 271
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre 71 Lyutov, Petko 596 České Švýcarsko 262–3
Litomĕřice, Master of 247 Lyutov House (Koprivshtitsa) 596 Český Krumlov 273
The Litta Madonna (da Vinci) 150 Croatia: Exploring Croatia 433
Little Princess (Marton) 339 Curonian Spit National Park 66–7
Little Quarter (Malá Strana) (Prague) M Czech Republic: Exploring the Czech
237–40 M. K. Čiurlionis Art Museum Republic 225
Little Quarter Square (Prague) 237 (Kaunas) 63 Dubrovnik 435
Liviko (Tallinn) 118, 119 M. R. Štefánika Airport (Bratislava) 315 Dubrovnik: Old Town 436–7
Living Museum of Arts and Crafts M. S., Master, The Visitation 328 Eger 369
(Buzsák) 357 Maailm (Tartu) 118, 119 Estonia: Exploring Estonia 101
Livonian Wars 99, 107 Maas (Russian architect) 602 Esztergom 349
Liznjek House (Kranjska Gora) 414 McCarthy’s Irish Pub (Sofia) 608, 609 Gauja National Park 90–91
Ljekama Aligheri (Zagreb) 471 Macho Pub (Balatonfüred) 377 Gdańsk 210–11
Ljubica, Princess 529 Madernieks, Jūlijs 84 Hradec Králové 261
Ljubljana 30, 40, 397, 400–407 Madonna of Bártfa 328 Hungary: Exploring Hungary 322–3
airport 4256 Madonna and Child (Master of Hvar 454–5
hotels 428 Flemalle) 153 Kalemegdan Fortress 526–7
GENERAL INDEX 625
Michael’s Gate (Bratislava) 292, 295 Monasteries and Convents (cont.) Moscow 29, 42–3, 126–41
Michałowicz, Jan 207 Bucovina Monasteries Tour 566 airport 161
Michelozzi, Michelozzo 434, 439 Carmelite Monastery (Székesfehérvár) history 123–4
Michetti, Nicola 109 350 hotels 164
Mickiewicz, Adam 57, 180 Cetinje Monastery (Cetinje) 511 map 126–7
Mieszko I 171, 207 Church and Monastery of St James map: Exploring Moscow and
Mihail Shishman, Emperor 580 (Osijek) 477 St Petersburg 125
Mihkli Farm Museum (Saaremaa Convent of St Agnes (Prague) 247 restaurants 165
Island) 110 Dominican Monastery and Church of shopping and entertainment 162–3
Mikhailovsky Theatre the Sacrifice of the Virgin (České Street-by-Street map: The Kremlin
(St Petersburg) 163 Budèjovice) 270 128–9
Mikkel, Johannes 109 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik) travel 160–61
Mikkel Museum (Kadriorg Palace) 109 11, 437, 440 Moscow Arts Theatre 162, 163
Mikulov 275 Dominican Monastery Moscow Conservatory 162, 163
Mikulov Castle (Czech Republic) 275 (Stari Grad) 455 Moscow Metro 40
Milea, Vasile (General) 551 Dominican Monastery (Tallinn) Moser (Prague) 282, 283
Milena, Queen 507 105, 107 Mosques
Milesi Palace (Split) 446 Dragalevtsi Monastery (Mount Bali Beg (Niš) 535
Miletić, Svetozar 532 Vitosha) 585 Emperor’s Mosque (Sarajevo) 492
Military Museum (Kalemegdan Franciscan Monastery Fethija Mosque (Bihać) 495
Fortress, Belgrade) 526 (Dubrovnik) 435 Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque
Military Museum (Warsaw) 183 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar) 454–5 (Sarajevo) 491
Mill Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) Franciscan Monastery and Church of Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque (Pécs) 363
264–5 the Assumption (Plzeň) 266–7 Imaret Mosque (Plovdiv) 595
Millenium Bridge (Podgorica) 506 Manasija Monastery (Despotovac) Jakovali Hassan Mosque (Pécs) 363
Millennium Monument (Heroes’ 534 Karadžozbegova Mosque
Square, Budapest) 341 Monastery of St Mary (Mljet) 442 (Mostar) 497
Millennium Tower (Zemun) 531 Novodevichiy Convent Lejlek Mosque (Novi Pazar) 535
Miller, Edward 360 (Moscow) 139 Mahmudiye Mosque (Constanţa) 567
Milna (Brač) 452 Ostrog Monastery (Montenegro) Many Coloured Mosque (Travnik) 494
Miloš Obrenović, Prince 529 394, 512–13 Mossoviet Theatre (Moscow) 162, 163
Milošević, Slobodan (President) Pannonhalma Abbey (Hungary) 350 Mostar 484, 496–7
522, 530 Rila Monastery (Bulgaria) 586–9 hotels 500
Mimara, Ante Topić 473 St George’s Basilica and Convent map 496
Mimara Museum (Zagreb) 473 (Prague) 229, 230–31 restaurants 501
Minaret (Eger) 369 St George’s Convent (Prague Mostar Tourist Information
Minćeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 435 Castle) 229 Centre 498, 499
Mindaugas, Duke 47 Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat Motorcycle Museum (České
Mine Action Centre 498, 499 (Rijeka) 462 Budéjovice) 271
Minin, Kuzma 132, 134 Sopoćani Monastery (Serbia) 535 Motto (Sofia) 608, 609
Minorite Church (Eger) 369 Strahov Monastery (Prague) 236–7 Mount Musala 27
Minovici, Dumitru 553 Studenica Monastery (Serbia) Mount Triglav 394419
The Mint (Peter and Paul Fortress) 144 523, 534 Mount Vitosha (Sofia) 578, 585
Miošić, Andrija Kaćić 453 Monastery Church (Sighişoara) 562 Mount Vogel 414, 420, 421
MIR Travel Company 160, 161 Monastery Farm Museum (Rila Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 251
Mirage (Pärnu) 118, 119 Monastery) 589 Mozart Memorial (Vienna) 383
Mirăuţi Church of St George Money 18–19 Mucha, Alfons 40, 254
(Suceava) 567 see also Banking and Currency Municipal House (Prague) 243, 252
Mirbach, Emil 295 Montenegrin National History Museum St Vitus’s Cathedral (Prague) 232
Mirbach Palace (Bratislava) 291, 292, 295 (Cetinje) 511 Mucha Museum (Prague) 254
Mister Bigg Pub (Győr) 377 Montenegrin National Theatre 516 Mud Therapy see Igalo’s Healing Mud
Mlada, Princess 231 Montenegro 26, 502–19 Munch, Edvard 65
Mladinska Knjiga Konzorcij (Ljubljana) beaches 507 Municipal Cemetery (Varaždin) 475
426, 427 history 503–4 Municipal House (Prague) 40, 243,
Mljet 442–3 hotels 517 252–3, 282, 283
Mljet National Park 442 language and culture 504 Municipal Museum (Subotica) 533
Mobile phones 18 map: Exploring Montenegro 505 Municipal Theatre (Trnava) 300
see also Communications restaurants 518–19 Munkácsy, Mihály 328
Mocker, Josef 256 shopping and entertainment 516 Museums and Galleries
Moćvara (Zagreb) 480, 481 travel 514–15 1812 Gallery (Winter Palace) 155
Modern Art Gallery (Hradec Králové) Montenegro Airlines 515 Academy of Fine Arts I(Gdańsk) 213
260–61 Montenegro Lines 515 Applied Arts Museum (Poznań) 205
Modern Art Gallery (Podgorica) 506 Montenegro Railways 515 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 54–5
Modern History Museum (Veliko Montferrand, Auguste de 146, 147 Archaeological Museum (Burgas) 605
Tûrnovo) 599 Monument of Bishop Gregory of Nin Archaeological Museum
Modern Hungarian Gallery (Pécs) 362 (Meštrović) 475 (Nesebûr) 605
Modesty (Augustinćić) 470 Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Archaeological Museum (Pécs) 363
Mohács, Battle of 38, 287, 321 Workers (Gdańsk) 211 Archaeological Museum (Pula) 463
Moholy-nagy, László 364 Monument to the Heroes of the Archaeological Museum (Sofia) 580
Mojo (Bucharest) 570, 571 Ghetto (Warsaw) 175, 182 Archaeological Museum (Split)
Moldoveanu peak 554 Monument to the Liberation of 1878 447, 450
Moldoviţa 566 (Niš) 535 Archaeological Museum (Varna) 602
Möller, Anton 212, 213 Monument to the Victims of June 1956 Archaeological Museum (Veliko
Molli, Clemente 177 (Poznań) 207 Tûrnovo) 599
Molly Malone’s (Tallinn) 118, 119 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 459
Molnár, Pál 339 (Warsaw) 179 Archaeological Museum
Monaco, Lorenzo, The Lamentation of Moravian Gallery (Brno) 277 (Zagreb) 473
Christ 234 The Morning of the Execution of the Archaeology Museum (Wrocław) 203
Monasteries and Convents Streltsy (Surikov) 141 Archangel Michael and Gabriel
Aladzha Monastery (Bulgaria) 604 Moró Antik (Budapest) 376, 377 Orthodox Church and Museum
Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 277 Morozov, Ivan 138 (Sarajevo) 490
Bachkovo Monastery (Bulgaria) Mosaic of Christ (Aleksandûr Nevski Archdiocesan Museum
592–3 Memorial Church, Sofia) 582 (Wrocław) 200
GENERAL INDEX 627
Museums and Galleries (cont.) Museums and Galleries (cont.) Museums and Galleries (cont.)
Archdiocese Museum (Poznań) 207 Ethnographic Museum of Margit Kovács Ceramics Collection
Architecture Museum (Wrocław) 202 Transylvania (Cluj-Napoca) 564 (Szentendre) 346
Art and Ethnographic Museum Exhibition of Antique Machinery Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum
(Braşov) 555 (Jūr