Composting at home

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 $
Compost bin rebate
West Torrens residents can use the food waste
recycling voucher in the ‘Four easy ways to recycle
your food scraps’ booklet available from Council for
a rebate of up to 50 per cent (up to $50) on a new
compost bin, whether purchased through Council or
privately.
The voucher offer is limited to one per household
while funds are available.

Sources:
Home Composting: Environmental Educator Fact Sheet, Department of
Environment and Conservation, Waste Authority, WA.
Compost Revolution, compostrevolution.com
Composting and Worm Farming Manual: Christopher Day,
Every Day Sustainable Living
How Composting Works, howstuffworks.com
Alan Shepard
Images courtesy of WA Waste Authority.

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Contents
Composting - the benefits.............................................................4
What to compost...........................................................................4
What not to compost.....................................................................5
Helpful hints..................................................................................6
Compost systems...........................................................................7
Choosing a location.......................................................................8
How to compost............................................................................8
Compost issues............................................................................10

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Composting
Composting is simply a process by which the natural decomposition of organic
materials such as garden waste and kitchen scraps are converted into a soil-
enriching substance called humus. It is easy to do, cheap and provides many
benefits.

Composting - the benefits

• Improves soil structure, aeration and health
by the addition of vital organic matter and
nutrients.
• Increases water retention capacity of soil which
reduces water use.
• Saves money spent on fertilisers and mulch.
• Reduces the cost of waste disposal to the
community.
• Reduces greenhouse gases produced by material
rotting in landfill.
• Reduces landfill

What to compost
Most things that once grew, or are made from something that once grew can be


composted.
Materials that are suitable fall into two categories:
• Nitrogen rich (usually ‘moist/green’
materials).
These provide energy for the micro-
organisms in the compost to live and
grow.
• Carbon rich (usually ‘dry/brown
materials).
These provide structure to the compost.
Nitrogen-rich (moist/green) materials
include:
• Food scraps (fruit, vegetable matter).
• Bread, cake, pasta and cereals.
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• Fresh grass clippings.
• Manures (cow, horse, sheep, chicken, pigeon).
• Fresh leaves.
• Hair (pet and human).
• Plant material from the garden (cut up, non woody).
Carbon-rich (Dry/Brown) materials include:
• Paper (tissues, paper towel, shredded paper/newspaper).
• Cardboard (heavily-soiled pizza boxes, ripped egg cartons).
• Dry leaves and grass clippings.
• Tea bags and coffee grounds.
• Egg shells.
• Hay/straw.
• Old potting mix.
• Wool.
• Sawdust.

What not to compost

• Inorganic material such as soft plastic (cling wrap and
bags), bread ties.

• Meat and seafood.
• Dairy products.
• Oils.
• Twigs and woody material.
• Invasive or bulbous weeds (couch grass, sour
sobs)*
• Dog and cat faeces (and other meat-eating
animals)*
*Home composting generally does not reach the temperature needed (over
550C) for the period of time needed to kill weed seeds or harmful micro-
organisms.
Faeces from pets that are carnivores are not suitable. Items that are not
suitable for home composting can be placed in the organics bin for commercial
composting.
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Helpful hints
Successful compost needs:
Air
Oxygen is essential: without it the compost will become anaerobic (low air),
break down slowly and produce unpleasant odours. Regular turning of your
compost (about once a fortnight) introduces air to the mix and will encourage
aerobic bacteria to thrive and increase the speed of decomposition. In addition,
firm or fibrous materials such as straw, pea straw and plant stems create air
pockets for aerobic bacteria to thrive.
A compost aerator (metal turning screw) is ideal for compost bins. Alternatively
a perforated PVC or drainage pipe inserted upright in the centre of your system
will allow air to circulate.
Diverse ingredients
The more diverse the organic material, both in
type and size, the faster the material will
decompose and the greater the nutrient
content of the finished compost will be.
Shredding paper, ripping cardboard, chopping
food scraps and garden prunings will also assist
the compost to break down faster.
Nitrogen/Carbon in balance
Opinions vary as to the real quantities of nitrogen-
rich (moist/green) material to carbon-rich (dry/
brown) material needed: some suggest a ratio
of one part moist/green to two parts dry/brown,
others a ratio of 1:3 parts. Although there is no hard
and fast rule, more brown organics than green are needed to
keep your compost balanced.
Moisture
Ideally the moisture content of your compost should be 40-60 per cent. It should
feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge, not saturated and not crumble when
squeezed. A dry mix will slow down the composting process and too much
moisture may cause the compost to smell unpleasant.

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Aliveness
Compost systems need living organisms and creatures to break the materials
down. These include worms, slaters, beetles, micro-organisms, bacteria and fungi.
In every new compost heap add some ‘starter’, i.e. some compost from another
heap which is in the process of breaking down. This will accelerate the process.

Compost systems
A number of composting systems are available.
Compost bin
Ideal for smaller gardens. They can be
purchased from our Council or from
hardware stores or nurseries. Having more
than one bin allows material in one to
mature while composting proceeds in
another.
Effective composting should mean no rats or
mice, but if you are concerned about them,
rodent-proof your bin by placing a layer of fine
chicken wire under the base and fold it up the
sides a short distance. Alternatively, line the inside of the
bin with chicken wire with at least 10cm in the soil.
Compost tumbler
Ideal for smaller gardens. They comprise a barrel on a frame that can be rotated.
With the increased aeration, they are often quicker to produce compost than
other methods and are less likely to have rodent or fly problems as they are fully
enclosed apart from the air vents.
Bays
Useful for large quantities of material. Enclosures can be made from pallets,
non-treated timber, wire mesh, bricks, concrete blocks or corrugated iron sheets.
The best dimensions are between one to two metres wide and one metre high.
Allow an access area at the front for turning the compost.
Bays can be simple one-compartment structures or multi-compartment,
generally three-bay, structures. The more bays the better, however the choice
depends on the effort, space and expense that you wish to devote to the
process. Multi-bay composting allows you to store green, non-woody material
waiting to be chopped up, to add new material to one bay, and to place finished
compost in another.
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Choosing a location
Find a level, well-drained area of soil at a convenient location in your garden
away from your neighbours. Contact with the soil allows drainage and access
for insects and worms to start working on breaking down the contents.
A warm, sunny spot will help to increase the temperature in the compost and
speed up the process. However the location should have some shade from the
afternoon sun in summer so a spot next to a deciduous tree would be ideal.

How to compost
1. Setting up your system
Whether you are using a bin or a bay, the
best way to start the process is to arrange
carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials in
alternate layers. If you have some existing
compost, start with a small quantity
otherwise start with a good layer of
carbon-rich materials for aeration and
good drainage. Then place a thin layer
of nitrogen-rich material. Repeat the
addition of carbon-rich and nitrogen-
rich material. This layering achieves a well-
structured compost pile which is well aerated with good moisture content to
promote rapid composting.
The layered process is the most convenient and suitable for the average home
as it allows for the addition of food scraps or garden material as they become
available. This method, however, takes longer to create usable compost and is
sometimes referred to as ‘cool’ or ‘slow’ composting.
Alternatively, if you have a stockpile of materials, you could fill your compost bay
or bin to the top with a mixture of carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials and
not add any further materials. This method is referred to as ‘hot’ composting.
You may consider inserting a perforated PVC or drainage pipe upright in the
centre of your system to allow air to circulate.
2. Maintaining your system
Check the moisture level regularly. It should feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge
when squeezed. Water should be added if the composting material is too dry.

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Mix or turn occasionally to increase aeration and prevent unpleasant odours:
fortnightly should suffice. A compost screw is ideal. The insertion of a perforated
PVC drainage pipe will minimise the need to turn for aeration.
When adding food scraps, place them at/near the middle of the bay/bin where
the temperature is the highest and then cover them with dry material such as
straw. This will help to prevent pests. A compost screw is an ideal way to create
the space in the materials.
In summer in particular, cover the top layer in a bin with some damp newspaper
or hessian bag before placing the lid on to prevent the materials from drying
out. For a compost bay, cover with a piece of non-synthetic carpet or hessian
bags to allow airflow, reduce pests and prevent the heap drying out.
3. Completed compost
The speed at which compost breaks down depends on the volume and diversity
of materials, the temperature of the compost, the moisture content and aeration
during the process. It will slow down in cool weather. Generally the process
takes three - six months.
Don’t add to the bay/bin when it is full to allow the material to break down and
mature. Start adding material to an adjoining bay/bin.
Mature compost:
• Smells earthy - not sour or putrid.
• No longer heats up after being turned or
watered.
• Has a dark brown colour and a
texture which resembles soil.
• Is crumbly and doesn’t have
identifiable contents such as food
or leaves.
If your compost does not appear
crumbly this could be due to the weight
of the layers of undecomposed material above compacting it and it may be quite
damp. Fluff up the compost with a garden fork so that it will separate into a
crumbly texture.
Home compost will be visibly different from commercially produced compost
which has been screened to remove materials that are too large.

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4. Using your compost (humus)
It is important to ensure that compost is ready to use as partially decomposed
material can harm plants or slow their growth. This is due to the continuation
of the decomposition process which depletes nitrogen in the soil and produces
acids which damage roots. Material which has not decayed properly can also
harbour pests and diseases.
Wear gloves, and if you touch the compost, make sure you wash your hands
thoroughly. If the compost is dusty, wear a paper mask and moisten the contents
to prevent dust generation.
Mix compost with soil on a 1:1 ratio to create a new garden bed or potting mix,
or dig it in around existing plants. It can also be soaked in water in a container,
strained and poured around plants using a watering can.
Compost is suitable for vegetables and exotics but is too rich for most native
plants.

Compost issues
Smells
If the mix smells like sulphur (rotting
eggs), it is too wet. Add carbon-rich,
dry materials and turn the compost to
aerate it.
If it smells like ammonia (acidic), it has
too much nitrogen-rich material. Add
carbon-rich, dry materials, turn the
compost to aerate it and add gardeners
lime or dolomite to balance the pH.
Slimy compost
This is a sign of too much nitrogen-rich material which results in poor structure
and inadequate aeration likely to produce odour. Add carbon-rich, dry materials
and turn the compost to aerate it.
Rodents
If they are common in your neighbourhood, they may be attracted to your
compost.
• Ensure that you are putting food scraps in the middle and covering them with
dry materials such as straw.

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• Avoid foods rich in carbohydrates, sugars and meat.
• If using a bin, rat/mice-proof it as suggested on page 7 and check that the lid
is secure and there are no gaps.
Pests: e.g. cockroaches, flies, ants
Cockroaches and ants are
attracted to warm, dry
environments which are
undisturbed. Moisten the
materials or add nitrogen-rich
materials and mix thoroughly,
particularly around crevices/sides.
If the compost is slightly acidic,
add some gardeners lime or
dolomite to neutralise the pH.
Most flies in compost are small
vinegar flies which are harmless
and indicate that the compost
is working properly. If blowflies
are attracted to the compost,
it is usually because unsuitable
materials, such as meat or dairy,
have been added or they are attracted to the warmth. Make sure the lid on a bin
fits securely or that a bay is well-covered.
Takes too long to break down
If you are only adding small amounts, it will take longer to ‘cook’ or ‘brew’.
Increase the size of the bay or heap: it should be at least 1 cubic metre in size.
Smaller quantities will not heat up as well and may dry out faster.
The bin/bay may not be creating the heat needed for active decomposition.
The temperature can be raised by adding nitrogen-rich material such as cow or
poultry manure.
Check the moisture content and, if it is too dry, add water. Turning the compost
will add oxygen which will reinvigorate the composting process by increasing the
temperature.
Stop adding new materials, leave it to mature, and start a new bin or heap.

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 165 Sir Donald Bradman Drive, Hilton 5033
P: 8416 6333
E: [email protected]
W: westtorrens.sa.gov.au

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