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414 M at e ri a l s — C h a r ac t e r ist ic s a nd Applicat ions

Textile Construction
Fibers are made into a textile or cloth by various construction methods. Each method creates distinctive aesthetic
and structural features that affect the fabric’s serviceability, installa­tion, and maintenance requirements. In turn,
these factors will influence the suitability of the fabric for end-use applications. The method of construction also
has a direct effect on the cost of the end product, which is an important criterion in the selection of most residen-
tial and commer­cial interior textile products. The most common fabrication methods use yarn as the basic ele­ment;
however, there are some methods that do not require fiber in a yarn form. The most common fabric construction
methods are described in the following sections.

Weaving
Weaving is still the dominant form of fabric construction. Weaving is done on looms and is the interlacing of
lengthwise yarns called warp and filling yarns called weft (an old English word) or woof; the latter run crosswise
and usually at right angles. The filling yarns hold the warp together. The pattern of the interlacing and the number
of yarns used determine the type of weave. Several basic categories of weaves—plain, leno, twill, satin, pile, and
Jacquard—are produced on looms (Figure 13.36).

PLAIN WEAVES  The plain weave simply interlaces one filling yarn over and under one warp yarn in a regular
sequence. It generally can be identified by its appearance of a checkerboard pattern. Using different sizes of yarns
or adding extra yarns in one direction creates variety. For example, a rib weave creates a lengthwise or crosswise
rib effect by interweaving heavy yarns with thinner ones, and a basket weave creates a distinct pattern by using
two or more warp yarns interlacing two or more filling yarns.

LENO WEAVES  Leno weaves, a variation of the plain weave, are produced when the warp yarns form an hour-
glass twist. They interweave the filling strands to create an open, lacy effect that resists distortion better than a
corresponding plain weave does. Leno is the most common lace weave and is often used for casement fabrics,
because it produces an open mesh appearance.

TWILL WEAVES  Twill weaves produce a definite diagonal line or wale on the surface of a fabric; this wale is
created by having the warp yarns “float” across a number of filling yarns in a regular pattern. Textiles woven in
twill weaves generally have high strength and resist soil and wrinkling better than textiles of plain weaves of
similar quality. Twills are often used on furniture upholstery for their soil- and stain-hiding capabilities. Typical twill-
woven textiles in­clude serge, hound’s-tooth, denim, and gabardine.

SATIN WEAVES  One warp yarn is floated over four or more filling yarns in the satin weave. The floats in the
satin weave are longer than in the twill weaves and minimize the over-under texture. Satin-woven fabrics are
characterized by high luster and sheen produced by fine, lustrous yarns and the reflection of large amounts of light
from the smooth, uninterrupted surface areas of the floats. The level of luster will be reduced if abrasion ruptures
the floating yarns during use. Textile examples of this weave category include satin, sateen, and chino.

PILE WEAVES  The pile weave adds a third set of yarns (pile yarns) to the basic warp and weft sets of yarns
during the weaving process. In the finished textile, the pile yarns protrude from the background, introducing

Figure 13.36 Common textile weaves

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