Wood Burning Handbook
Wood Burning Handbook
Alternatives to Burning Wood Reducing Wood Smoke Pollution Getting More Heat For Your Fuel Dollar
Cal/EPA Air Resources Board Enforcement Division Compliance Assistance Program In Cooperation With Local Air Pollution Control Districts
Particulate Matter less than 10 microns in diameter (PM10) are very small droplets of condensed organic vapors of wood tar and gases. These particles are a result of unburned fuel and have a diameter of 10 microns or smaller (the diameter of a human hair is about 50 to 100 microns), which allows them to be inhaled into the lungs. Exposure to PM10 aggravates a number of respiratory illnesses.
PM10 includes a smaller group of particles called PM2.5, particles with diameters of 2.5 microns and less. These finer particles pose an increased health risk because they can lodge deep in the lungs and contain substances that are particularly harmful to human health, contributing to lung diseases and cancer. Exposure to PM2.5 may even cause early death in people with existing heart and lung disease.
-600
At temperatures above 600 degrees Fahrenheit the escaping gases start burning, ignited by nearby flames. As the temperature reaches 1000 degrees, the log charcoal burns and emits heat. Burning the charcoal produces most of the fire's usable heat.
As you can see, most of your investment in wood goes up in smoke. This is an expensive way to produce a little heat!
Where Does Your Heat Go? Check your Insulation and Weather-Stripping
Warm air is always escaping from your house, and is replaced by unheated outdoor air. The typical house has one-half to two air exchanges per hour, and more on windy and/or very cold days. If your house has little insulation and many air leaks, you are paying to heat the outdoors. And if the outside air is smoky, soon your air inside will be too. Some air exchange is necessary because of the many sources of air pollution in the home (wood heater, gas stove, consumer products, cigarettes, etc.) Sufficient fresh air inlets are needed to replace air forced out of the house by exhaust fans, dryers, furnaces, water heaters, or wood fires. Here are some suggestions to minimize excess air exchange: Install Ceiling Insulation. When hot air rises, much of the heat is lost through the ceiling and roof. Wall and floor insulation also reduce heat loss. Recommended amounts of insulation have increased in recent years, so be sure your house has all it needs. Caulk around all windows, doors, pipes, and any opening into the house. Weather-strip all door and window openings. Consider installing double-paned glass, outdoor or indoor storm windows, and/or insulated curtains. Close the damper tightly when the heater is not in use. Stoves and fireplaces allow air to leak out of the house even when they are not operating, unless they are literally airtight. Close off unused rooms if you do not use central heating Dont waste the heat!
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Switch to Gas
Gas fireplaces are very popular and look like a real wood fire! They are self-contained units, which can be fitted into your existing (vented) fireplace. They send less of your heated air up the chimney. This equipment burns cleaner, is easy to start, convenient, safe and inexpensive to operate, and is a good source of heat. Gas fireplaces are also a good choice if youre remodeling a home and replacing a wood fireplace.
Catalytic Stoves
Similar to the smog control device on new cars, the catalytic combustor in these stoves allows the volatile gases to burn at lower temperatures. Smoke passes through a ceramic honeycomb coated with a rare-metal catalyst, which allows complete smoke combustion and heat release at only 500-700 degrees F. Their efficiency does drop over time and the catalyst device requires replacement after three to seven years of use.
Non-Catalytic Stoves
These stoves are designed with baffles and/or secondary combustion chambers, which route the burnable gases through the hottest part of the firebox and mix them with sufficient air to burn them more completely. They can attain up to four stages of combustion and completely burn the wood smoke before it escapes.
If your woodstove is not U.S.EPA certified, you should consider buying a new certified woodstove. A new U.S. EPA certified stove will increase combustion efficiency, produce far less smoke and creosote buildup, and reduce air pollution. It uses the latest and best technology available on transfer efficiency, and will provide more heat for your house and less for your flue. If you want to pollute less and save money on fuel, you should insist on an EPA Certified device, which will be clearly labeled as such.
6 grams in 1 hour
Non-Certified Stove
HEATING EFFICIENCY Masonry Fireplace Manufactured Fireplace Freestanding Fireplace Antique Stove How efficiently your wood heater operates depends on 2 more factors: Installation is it located on an outside wall? Too big for house? Flue draws well? Operation Is the wood green? Is the stove stuffed with wood? Is the fire starved for air? Fireplace Insert Airtight Stove Certified Stoves, Inserts, Fireplaces Gas Heater -10% to 10% -10% to 10%
-10% to 30%
Your operating techniques account for the largest variations in your woodstove's heating efficiency.
Look for the Permanent U.S.EPA Label on Certified Devices! For maximum safety and efficiency have a professional installer calculate the correct stove size for the area, install the stove, and design and install the chimney.
If you Still Must Burn Wood, Follow These Tips on Clean Burning To Heat More Efficiently and Reduce Air Pollution!
Start Your Fire With Softwood Kindling
Softwoods (pine, fir) are generally low in density, ignite easily, burn fast and hot and will heat the firebox and flue quickly. They are ideal for kindling and starting your fires, but form creosote easily due to the high resin (sap) content.
To Speed Drying:
Split and Stack logs dry from the outside in, so split big logs right away for faster drying. Stack loosely in a crosswise fashion to get good air circulation. Store High & Dry Stack a foot or more above the ground and away from buildings in a sunny, well-ventilated area. Cover the top to keep dew and rain off the wood, but leave the sides open to breezes.
Light & Refuel your fire quickly and carefully. These are the times it will smoke the most.
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Dont Burn Anything but Clean, Seasoned Wood, Fireplace Logs, and Non-glossy White Paper
- No Garbage - No Rubber - No Particleboard - No Glossy Paper - No Solvent or Paint - No Coal or Charcoal No Plastics No Waste No Plywood No Colored Paper No Oil No Painted/ Treated Wood
Burning these materials can produce noxious, corrosive smoke and fumes that may be toxic. They can foul your catalytic combustor, your flue, and the lungs of your family and neighbors.
Overnight Heating
When using an open fireplace, DO NOT burn overnight unattended - it's a major fire hazard. This can also lead to a back draft of the smoke into your own home, causing very hazardous indoor air pollution. Build a small, hot fire and let it burn out completely. Rely on your home's insulation to hold in enough heat for the night. When the fire is out, close the damper tightly.
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Your State and local air pollution control agencies urge you to burn clean, burn safe, and burn smart. Remember
Lake (707) 263-7000 Lassen (530) 251-8110 Mariposa (209) 966-2220 Mendocino (707) 463-4354 Modoc (530) 233-6419
San Diego (858) 650-4700 San Luis Obispo (805) 781-4247 Santa Barbara (805) 961-8800 Shasta (530) 225-5789 Siskiyou (530) 841-4029
Mojave Desert (760) 245-1661 Tehama (530) 527-3717 No. Sonoma (707) 433-5911 Placer (530) 889-7130 Sacramento (916) 874-4800
California Environmental Protection Agency
http://www.arb.ca.gov
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