ROBATA

JAPANESE HOME
GRILLING

Silla Bjerrum
Photography
Keiko Oikawa
CONTENTS
Introduction
Fish Robata
Other Robata
Classic Yakitori
Other Skewers
Nibbles
Salads and Sides
Desserts and Drinks
Index
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Over the last two decades we have witnessed a global
explosion in sushi, with Japanese restaurants popping up in
every corner of the world. And with that a more recent
trend has emerged, combining sushi with robata. The word
‘robata’ translates as ‘fireside cooking’, and is a Japanese
style of grilling food, consisting of delicious skewered
morsels of fish, shellfish, meat and vegetables. It is the
perfect marriage of raw and cooked dishes, served
alongside each other and often eaten like tapas, with a
focus on sharing.
My love for robata has evolved through my career as a
sushi chef, and in 2015 I had the opportunity to launch a
sushi and robata restaurant inside Whole Foods Market,
Kensington. Provenance and seasonality have always been
at the core of my cooking, and the chefs and I strived to
fine-tune classic robata and yakitori dishes to great acclaim.
We were cooking on a gas robata grill, a wonderful piece of
equipment; the provenance of the fish, meat and seasonal
vegetables was second to none; and we produced a menu
we were proud of. Yet it was not quite up there with the
authentic Japanese dishes, and so I treated myself to the
real deal – a shichirin grill, sometimes called a konro grill –
and started playing around with charcoals and recipes.
I am married to a barbecue master, and we are renowned
for throwing great summer parties: suckling pig, smoked
briskets, jerk chicken, slow-cooked ribs – all have become
staples in our household. It is all about the wood, the chips,
the charcoal and time, to create slow-cooked barbecue
perfection. We even have a great tradition of smoking our
turkey at Christmas. It is my husband David’s gig, but over
the years I have fallen in love with our smoker, our drum
barbecue and our selection of Weber grills, however
nothing prepared me for owning a shichirin. It is a fast but
very pure form of grilling; the heat of the binchotan
charcoals literally locks in the flavours. It is like creating
quality sushi: marrying simple techniques with great
attention to detail, and using ingredients with natural
flavour-enhancing properties. For traditional robata and
yakitori, the focus is on umami, the fifth taste, which is
accelerated with the use of soy-based sauces, miso,
shiitake, etc.
At its core, robata is the Japanese version of grilling, a
link to our original journey into gastronomy via fire, as
cultures across the world developed their own version of
grilling and barbecuing. The opinion is often held that the
barbecue originated with Jamaican jerk chicken, which was
cooked over direct and indirect heat using pimento wood in
a fire pit, essentially grilling and smoking at the same time,
giving jerk chicken its distinctive flavour.
The backyard formula we are now so familiar with is
based on meat grilled over a direct gas or coal flame. It is
fast and fairly easy to handle, as long as attention is paid to
protein being fully cooked. The more adventurous home
barbecues use slow cooking and indirect grilling, smoking
over coals and/or wood with natural flavour enhancers
added, with wood chips of many origins.
Robata differs significantly compared to the meat fest
that we in the West have elevated to a god-like institution
with the core principle of ‘more is more’. In contrast,
robata is about delicacy, provenance and combining a
selection of ingredients to create a nutritious, well-balanced
meal. It is grilling over an open flame, so relatively fast, but
it is also live theatre, with the robata as the central focal
point. It is slow cooking fast.
In this book, you will find my interpretation of
traditional recipes from Japan and Japanese-style eateries
across the West. I have included some of my own twists
and used artistic licence in my cooking techniques, all in
the search for perfectly grilled Japanese food.
A history of robata
The traditional Japanese home was centred around the irori,
an open stone-lined fire pit and the heart of the home, a
focal point around which the family would gather for
warmth, comfort and to cook daily meals. They would
typically use wood from fallen trees, or more affluent
households would use charcoal; the latter is important for
the evolution of the robata, as it was smoke-free and would
burn for longer than wood. The food grilled would be
seasonal and local, a traditional menu with lots of fish, tofu
and vegetable options.
Hokkaido is the larder of Japan, often talked about by
the Japanese with a twinkle in their eye and a romantic
longing for authentic Japanese food. The origin of robata
stems from the Hokkaido region, where fishermen would
cook their lunch onboard their vessels over small bincho
charcoal fires, which were bought on to the boat in stone
boxes to ensure they didn’t set fire to the wooden boats.
These impromptu daily treats of freshly grilled fish
eventually became popular on land too, and this style of
cooking spread from fishing villages inland, further
supported by a government campaign, which spread its
virtues widely across Japan in the decades after the Second
World War. The custom eventually evolved into
restaurants, which started to add meat and vegetables to the
menu, cooked over the rectangular pits we now associate
with robata.
The first robata restaurant opened in Sendai, in the
Miyagi prefecture, in 1950, and was called Robata, a name
which has stuck. The original format saw chefs sitting
cross-legged behind a stone-walled sunken pit loaded with
smouldering hot binchotan coals. Produce would typically
be laid out in front of the chefs and customers would pick
items, which were handed to the chefs by waiting staff,
grilled, and handed back to the diners on large wooden
ladles representing fishermen’s oars – apparently the way
in which the Hokkaido fishermen would share their lunch
among boats.
Another very popular form of grilling over binchotan
coals is yakitori. Yakitori directly translates as ‘grilled
chicken’ and evolved as an urban phenomenon. Small
yakitori restaurants would pop up across a city as the
perfect place to grab a few beers, some chilled sake and a
few perfectly grilled chicken skewers. Traditionally,
skewers are seasoned with tare sauce, a soy-based basting
sauce, or just seasoned with salt as they come off the
yakitori grill. Most parts of the chicken are used, including
the popular chicken skin and chicken heart.
As such, robata and yakitori are not distinctively
different; perhaps the differentiation is that robata had its
roots in fish and vegetable dishes, traditionally eaten at
home, and originating in Hokkaido and rural areas. Yakitori
dishes originally consisted of chicken and seasonal
vegetables, as these were cheap and accessible proteins in
urban areas, and are a relatively new addition to binchotan
cooking. The robata grill tends to be made of clay, which
can withstand high temperatures, whereas a yakitori grill is
narrower and typically made of reinforced steel strong
enough to withstand the very high temperature. What both
styles share is that they are grilled over binchotan coals and
direct heat.
How to cook robata
WHY BINCHOTAN?
Japan has been producing charcoal for almost 5,000 years
as a smoke- and flame-free source of heat for houses. The
country has large land areas covered in forest, so taking
down trees and producing charcoal has been an important
part of maintaining forestry through millennia. Binchotan
(bincho) charcoals, sometimes referred to as white charcoal
due to the white residue found on its surface, is a style of
charcoal made from a heavy, dense species of oak tree,
such as the 20–30-year-old ubame oak tree from Minabe in
the Wakayama Prefecture, where some of the finest bincho
is produced. Bincho coals were first adopted by the
aristocracy as a smoke-free fuel to heat their palaces, before
being adapted for cooking purposes and popularized by the
new portable cooking tool, the hibachi, a rectangular or
round box with inner walls covered in an inflammable
ceramic material, which took cooking on charcoal from a
luxury to an everyday custom.
Bincho coals now have an almost mythical status among
chefs. Grilling with bincho makes the surface of the food
crisp and keeps the inside juicy, a result of the far-reaching
infra-red heat produced by the coals. The crispness of the
outside is aided by the absence of moisture from the
bincho, as it produces no steam. When droplets of natural
fat and meat juices drip on to the charcoal it creates a
reverse cooking effect by creating puffs of smoke projected
back on to the meat; according to Japanese chef folklore,
this is the secret to tender, perfectly grilled chicken
yakitori.
There are various styles and quality of bincho charcoals;
some are shaped like the original pieces of wood, while
others have been pressed into long cylinder-shaped
briquettes, made from surplus sawdust from sawmills. It
takes at least three days to produce constantly burning
bincho coals in a clay-clad kiln. For the first two days the
wood is sealed off from the elements and burned, then
oxygen is gradually added until the raw wood has been
totally carbonized. This method produces strong-burning,
long-lasting charcoal, and bincho can burn for many hours
without producing smoke.
A bigger and more recent version of the traditional
hibachi grill is the shichirin, or robata grill, a rectangular
cooking device made in black iron and light ceramic clay,
which can withstand temperatures of up to 800°C (1500°F).
For the diehard robata fan I do recommend investing in a
shichirin, as it retains the heat of the bincho phenomenally
well and gives hours of quality grilling. They are not too
heavy and can be moved easily if you do not have a
dedicated permanent outdoor space for your grill.
Rule number one with a shichirin is not to get it wet; if
kept outdoors, ensure it is always covered and, post-
grilling, I recommend removing the charcoals with a set of
tongs and leaving them to cool down in a metal bucket of
water. If you have set up your robata session with
underlaying lump charcoal, spread this across the base of
the shichirin and leave it to burn out. With the bincho
charcoals removed, they should take no more than 30
minutes to cool down. Remove the charcoal dust from the
chamber of the shichirin, and wipe the inside of the grill
clean with a very light damp cloth.
It is worth mentioning that there are many other uses for
bincho coals: to control moisture and damp under
floorboards, to eliminate odours in the fridge; they can be
used as fertilizer, enhancing the natural growth of leaf
vegetables; and to purify water, including during rice
cooking, making the rice fluffy due to the mineral content
of sodium and potassium causing the grains to swell.
SETTING UP THE ROBATA GRILL
Traditionally, bincho charcoals are burned initially in a
charcoal starter (a portable metal cylinder-shaped chimney,
which allows air to circulate and speeds up the heating of
the coals) over a gas flame, then decanted in to the robata
grill. The purer the charcoal, the cleaner the food, both
literally and in its taste profile, so do avoid firelighters and
cheap briquettes. The best alternative to bincho charcoals
would be hardwood charcoal; ideally source a local
charcoal devoid of chemicals. Standard commercial
charcoal briquettes are often mixed with carbohydrates
such as wheat and corn, which may explain their limitations
in terms of burn time and heat.
Depending on your menu, build up the robata grill
accordingly. If you are throwing a larger party, cooking for
ten people or more, I recommend going 100 per cent
bincho and building up your robata chamber with bincho
charcoals only. In a charcoal chimney, build up the bincho
with some old newspaper and small pieces of natural
firelighter, then start the funnel, and when all sides of the
bincho are ash white, decant them into the robata grill. You
need about 2kg (4lb. 6oz.) of coals per starter, and it takes
about 20 minutes for each chimney starter. Decant the
bincho to the robata as they are ready. Alternatively, start a
bincho charcoal fire in a smaller barbecue adjacent to the
robata grill. I recommend using a bag of good-quality lump
charcoal; set this alight and wait for the coals to turn grey.
Then place the bincho on top of the coals, rotating the
bincho with a set of tongs as they take colour. When all the
bincho charcoal is glowing, transport it to the robata grill
using a set of tongs. This set up will need a certain amount
of attention, however, whereas the chimney allows you to
get on with other preparation.
Subject to the size of your robata chamber, you will
need 2–3 sets of bincho coals. When all the coals are ready,
build up two sections of different heat intensity in the grill.
It is important to arrange the bincho neatly, preferably
lengthways and to the same length as the skewers. Chicken
should be cooked slowly, allowing the fat of the chicken to
render, whereas fish requires a more intense heat. For some
dishes, such as ribs, you may need two different kinds of
heat: the hotter section seals the meat, but once the glaze is
added – and therefore sugar and alcohol – you want to
continue grilling on the cooler side of the robata to avoid
burning the protein. The binchotan heat settles after about
40 minutes, so the first batch of coals will be ideal for the
cooler part of the grill.
DIY ROBATA GRILL
As a robata novice, it is worthwhile ordering a box of
bincho charcoal online and having a play around with these
to ensure you have the bug before investing large amounts
of money in a robata. It is a great exercise in understanding
the power and purity of bincho charcoal. If you cook
professionally, I could not think of a more perfect idea for a
small start-up food business with which to tour local
markets and join in the festival season.
Conventional barbecue charcoal will typically burn at a
maximum of 400°C (750°F), and it is important to keep this
in mind, as many standard barbecues are built from steel
and able to withstand only this level of heat. As bincho
charcoal potentially burns at twice the intensity, I would
not recommend placing these at the base of a standard
barbecue as they could burn through the bottom. A drum or
brick barbecue or a Weber barbecue are ideal for the DIY
robata. Or the latest must-have is the Green Egg, an
evolution of the hibachi – an egg-shaped cast-iron kettle
lined with ceramic, which is able to withstand intense heat.
Designed for direct and indirect grilling, it is very suitable
for robata too.
Use the compressed style of bincho charcoal as these
keep their shape as they burn, which ensures that none of
the charcoal falls to the base of the barbecue, as it does
with traditional lump wood. The best method is to place a
sturdy wire rack across the base, of a similar quality to the
racks used in a standard conventional oven and made from
steel strong enough to withstand the high heat. If the rack is
too thin it will eventually be damaged by the heat and there
is a risk of contaminating the robata feasts with small
pieces of steel. You will need two wire racks of the same
quality which fit inside the barbecue and which can be
hung from hinges attached to the inside walls. Check that
the wire racks fit and ensure both are clean.
 To grill on the DIY robata, start the bincho coals in a
charcoal chimney, just as you would when grilling on the
robata grill. When the bincho charcoals are ready, place
them neatly in a block on the wire rack at the base. Use a
pair of long tongs for this as the heat will be very intense.
Then place the second wire rack on top, ensuring this is
attached to the hinge on the side of the barbecue to create a
space between the bincho charcoal and the second wire
rack; the wire rack should not balance on the bincho, but be
secured to the side of the barbecue. If possible, the second
wire rack should have a grid pattern.
To build a pit inside the barbecue for grilling over the
bincho, take four bricks – either fire-resistant bricks, or
wrap standard bricks in a couple of layers of tin foil (not
lined with paper) – and place them on the bottom rack,
wide enough apart so that the skewers can rest on each side.
I recommend placing these across the direction of the line
of wires as they will rest more securely. When the bincho
coals are ready to be moved from the charcoal chimney,
place them inside the makeshift pit.
When the barbecue is ready, the heat will be good and
the pure taste from the bincho charcoal will penetrate the
ingredients as they are grilled. The DIY robata will not
retain heat to the same degree as a shichirin chamber, but it
will be a pretty good example of Japanese-style robata.
In my opinion, all seasons are robata seasons; as the
Danes says, there is no wrong weather, just wrong clothing.
But if it is raining and you do not have suitable cover or do
not fancy cooking under an umbrella, then the oven is the
get-out clause.
For a makeshift robata pit in the oven, turn the oven grill
to its highest setting. On a baking sheet, create a mini pit
high enough for the skewers not to touch the base. I have
previously used eight sushi rolling mats: take two mats and
fold them into a rectangle, then wrap tightly in a few layers
of foil (not lined with paper) and tuck in the ends so the
bamboo is totally covered. As we are now operating in the
realm of modernity, using either gas or electricity, we have
lost some of the pure binchotan heat and the reverse smoke
created from fat droplets. Therefore, place the skewers
across the pit and brush with sunflower oil, then turn the
skewers and brush with oil again. Wait for the skewers to
take on colour and cook through, then start brushing with
tare sauce, rotating and repeating until nicely covered. The
trick here is to ensure the skewers are just cooked before
adding the sauce; if the sauce is added too early, the food
will be steaming in sweet soy sauce instead of grilling.

TOOLS
There are two methods of grilling on the robata, either on a
wire rack placed over the coals, or on skewers directly over
the coals. The latter tend to be wooden skewers, either
round or rectangular-shaped with a pointy tip and small
handle; should you be tempted to eat straight from the
skewer, this will come in handy. Both types of skewer
come in various lengths, to be placed across the grill,
thereby avoiding using tongs and just rotating the skewers
by hand. This is an important detail as less handling of the
meat creates a more tender result.
When cooking on a wire rack you will need a wire brush
and a neutral oil such as vegetable oil. The rack should be
scrubbed clean after each robata session, and when reused
should be heated by the charcoal to remove any debris and
products which may have remained after the last clean.
When you have finished cooking, rub the rack down with
the wire brush, leave to cool, then clean in soapy water.
Furthermore, it is important to rub down the wire rack
between dishes so as not to contaminate the flavours; for
example, after fish and before fruit you really want to
ensure the wire rack is clean. Most dishes will need a light
coating of oil on both the wire rack and the ingredient, and
it’s best to use a silicone pastry brush or grill brush for this
task. Oiling the wire rack may cause a flare of flames; just
stand back, allow the flames to settle, then place the food
on the rack.
Your knife will probably be your most prized tool when
cooking Japanese food. Handmade Japanese knives are an
art form, and a centuries-old tradition of sword- and knife-
making is evident in their craftsmanship. There are three
basic categories of traditional Japanese knives. The usuba
is typically used for vegetable preparation and shredding.
The deba knife is another preparation knife, typically used
to fillet fish and for more strenuous tasks, such as removing
fish heads and scales, or cutting through bone and cartilage.
The long-bladed yanagiba, along with the sashimi knife, is
used for preparing sashimi, and is suitable for raw and
seared protein preparation. With the yanagiba, you cut from
the heel of the knife, drawing the blade towards yourself to
utilize the full length. I believe there is one perfect knife for
each of us: invest heavily and maintain with care and you
have a knife for life.
Other essential tools include a small saucepan in which
to heat the tare sauce, a sauce mop, tongs, spatula and a
frying pan (skillet).
Left to right: basic yanagiba knife; yanagiba knife for advanced skills;
sashimi knife; all-purpose knife; deba knife
Clockwise from top left: small saucepan and whisk, wire brush,
spatula, silicone brushes, tongs, sauce mop
Key Japanese ingredients
Japanese food, in all its incarnations, has some basic
building blocks, a set of key ingredients which have
evolved over the centuries and which are very specific to
this kind of cuisine. The defining feature of many of these
ingredients is umami, the fifth taste, best described as a
savoury ingredient which acts as a natural flavour
enhancer, lifting the original ingredient. Umami is found in
shiitake, kombu, soy, miso and bonito flakes; the latter are
used in hon dashi, the base stock for many marinades,
broths and soups. Soy, brewed using fermented soy beans,
is used instead of salt, although some of the more
Westernized dishes in this book use sea salt in its place.
Shown here are all the various Japanese flavours, sauces
and seaweeds I have grown fond of over the years. It is not
an exhaustive list, but these are what give robata and
yakitori that special twist. My personal three favourites are
miso, yuzu and wasabi.

MISO
Miso is an ancient food which has been eaten in the Far
East for thousands of years. It is made from soy beans,
which are soaked, steamed and then fermented for a
minimum of 3 months with a koji mould starter and either
wheat, rice or barley to aid the process. It is relatively easy
to make and traditionally would have been primarily
homemade. However, as urban cities grew, so did miso
vendors, who traditionally sold miso by weight, served up
in large wooden barrels. The vendors are still to be found in
Japan to this day, although miso is now widely available in
health food stores, Asian stores and leading supermarkets
globally.
Miso has many properties for good health: it is low in
fat, high in protein and packed full of lovely bacteria,
similar to those found in live yogurt, sauerkraut, sourdough
and kimchi. Miso paste has a naturally high umami content,
and for miso soup this is enhanced with the addition of
kombu, hon dashi and shiitake, then served with wakame,
tofu and spring onions (scallions) in its classic incarnation.
There are many varieties of miso soup, with the addition of
more vegetables, or other proteins such as fish, but its uses
reach far beyond soup. Miso is now entering mainstream
cooking and is a fantastic addition to endless dishes, not
only adding flavour, but increasing protein count while
lowering fat in dips and dressings.
Sweet miso is the youngest, fermenting for just 3
months; the more common yellow miso is typically
fermented for 6 months; and the richer red miso is aged for
a minimum of 12 months, the flavour becoming more
layered and complex over time, providing it is kept in the
correct conditions, including the slow ferment in a
traditional cedar wood barrel. Sweet miso is less salty,
tends to be more expensive, but is great for sweet dishes
such as Miso Ice Cream. White miso is less sweet, and is
used in soups, dressings and as a marinade; mirin, sake and
sugar are often added to white miso, as the alcohol and
sugar stimulate the properties of the miso when used on
fish, meat or tofu, creating smooth caramelized protein.

YUZU
Yuzu is Japanese citrus, best described as a fruit with a
flavour profile somewhere between a pink grapefruit and
lime, and with the appearance of a yellow tangerine. It is
very tart and commonly used in savoury dishes, like ponzu
sauce, dips and marinades. Recently yuzu juice has become
more easily available and chefs have started experimenting,
using it in classic dessert recipes like pannacotta,
cheesecake and ice cream. I recommend using the purest
yuzu juice, but be aware that the juice is sometimes slightly
salted to enhance its shelf life, so do adjust recipes
accordingly, use sparingly and store in the fridge. Its
distinctive flavour does lift a dish, however.
Yuzu kosho is a condiment served with many dishes,
including robata. It is tart, tangy, bitter and hot, all at the
same time, and made from fermented yuzu rind, yuzu juice,
green or red chilli.
Fresh yuzu is magical and is now successfully grown in
hotter climates outside Japan, in both America and Europe.
My autumn sanctuary is my friend Vicente Todoli’s Citrus
Foundation, a citrus nursery near the coast of Valencia,
dedicated to the preservation of at least 380 rare species,
and counting. Vicente has transformed his father’s orange
nursery into a shrine for live citrus past and present, to
actively promote bio-diversity and create a playground for
citrus enthusiasts, scientists, academics and chefs alike. The
yuzu is harvested around December/January, an event I
never miss when, with a child’s greed, I go yuzu picking at
the Citrus Foundation’s orchard.
The aroma of a freshly picked yuzu is mesmerizing. It is
a relatively soft fruit and its pores are almost oozing with
juices. It is very soft inside with large pips; to me it is so
precious that I use the whole fruit with the exception of the
pips. Yuzu leaves are included in the recipe shown here;
they are not as perfumed as lime leaves, but have a mild
aroma of yuzu, perfect for hot smoking.
WASABI
Wasabi was originally foraged from the wild, and would
typically be found along gravel water streams. Wasabi has
been cultivated in Japan since the sixteenth century and
became an important part of the evolution of sushi, being
served as an accompaniment to sushi with pickled ginger
and soy. The three key components which make sushi safe
to eat raw are the pH of the pickled sushi rice; the freshest,
finest-quality fish prepared with Japanese sword-quality
knives; and the properties of wasabi as both a flavour
enhancer and antiseptic. However, most of the wasabi we
consume comes in powder form and is made from mustard
powder, English horseradish, flavourings, colourings, and
about 1 per cent real wasabi.
Real wasabi is now grown in the UK and is available
online, and unsurprisingly the quality is far beyond the
powdered stuff. It grows with beautiful large leaves, which
are also edible – they’re great in salads or used as a wrap to
roll or steam. For wasabi paste, the roots of the plant, the
rhizomes, are grated in circular movements, traditionally on
a shark skin grater, although modern versions made of
plastic are also available for a fraction of the price. Wasabi
is best eaten neat, and is perfect to either spice up soy sauce
or as a tiny dot of seasoning on a piece of protein. It should
be eaten freshly grated for the best potency: it’s sweet when
it first hits the taste buds, but then opens up the back of the
throat and sinuses for a wasabi heat flush. Truly addictive.
1 WAKAME SEAWEED
2 KOMBU
3 BONITO FLAKES
4 PICKLED GINGER
5 WASABI
6 FURIKAKE
7 AONORI SEAWEED
8 BLACK SESAME SEEDS
9 WHITE SESAME SEEDS
21 LIQUID KOMBU DASHI

WAKAME SEAWEED (1) is dehydrated seaweed used most

commonly in miso and soups, but also very suitable as a
salad ingredient and a component of many appetizer dishes.
Wakame looks like black tea, but blooms into beautiful
green leaves when placed in plenty of iced water 20
minutes before use.

KOMBU (2), dried seaweed kelp, is an absolute cornerstone

of Japanese food and is packed full of natural umami. Often
just used as a component while cooking the dish and then
removed, it is an important part of dashi broth. Although
kombu is edible after soaking, finely cut julienne-style in
seaweed salad, bento and sushi bowls, fresh, locally
harvested kombu is becoming more widely available and is
highly recommended.

BONITO FLAKES (3), also called

katsuobushi, is another key
ingredient of dashi, made from the
shavings of smoked dried
fermented bonito fish. Bonito fish
is in the same family as tuna and
mackerel, and most similar to
skipjack tuna. In fact, these days
lots of katsuobushis are made
from skipjack tuna. Bonito contains a high level of
concentrated umami. Also used as a garnish on smaller
dishes, sashimi, sushi and the Japanese version of street
food served at seasonal festivals throughout Japan.

PICKLED GINGER (4) is commonly used in sushi, and was

originally intended as a palate cleanser between different
flavours of sushi. It is a fantastic ingredient in its own right,
with some great shop-bought versions. The general rule is
to look for paler, softer ginger to which no artificial colours
have been added; it is worth checking the label.

WASABI (5) is mostly available in powder form. Wasabi

powder differs from real wasabi root as it contains little
from the real root, but mainly consists of mustard powder,
English horseradish and wasabi flavouring. Wasabi without
colour is the better and healthier option.

FURIKAKE (6) is a Japanese sprinkle, often served on top of

rice or on rice balls, and popular with children. It comes in
many variations. The classic version of furikake contains
sweet nori flakes, bonito flakes, wasabi mustard granules
and sesame seeds.

AONORI SEAWEED (7) are seaweed flakes used to season

okonomiyaki and other Japanese foods. Aonori can also be
used to flavour batters, or in marinades and butters, adding
an even mellow umami flavour and texture.
BLACK SESAME SEEDS (8), the great cousin of white
sesame seeds, are mostly sold pre-toasted and have a
slightly nuttier and deeper flavour than white sesame, albeit
with most of the same health benefits; they are a good
source of essential minerals like magnesium and calcium.
Sesame is a zinc-rich food and the correct intake supports
the immune system.

WHITE SESAME SEEDS (9), from the sesame plant, have

been grown and cultivated for centuries. The seeds have the
same oil content and health benefits as black sesame seeds,
but are milder and an everyday ingredient of Japanese food
as well as across the Middle East. With an oil content of
about 55 per cent, and 20 per cent fat, they are a high
source of both essential fatty acids and certain amino acids.
For Japanese food these are often bought pre-toasted.
10 KIMCHI
11 SRIRACHA
12 SHICHIMI
13 RED MISO
14 YELLOW MISO
15 SWEET MISO
16 MIRIN
17 COOKING SAKE
18 YUZU JUICE
19 SOY SAUCE
20 JAPANESE FISH SAUCE
KIMCHI (10) is a Korean chilli sauce with a complex
mellow, yet hot and slightly smoky flavour. It is a thick
paste containing ingredients like fish sauce, bonito flakes
and Korean chilli flake mix. There are some great shop-
bought brands of kimchi, and it is an ideal store cupboard
item, to be used in dressings, marinades and as the base
sauce for kimchi pickles.

SRIRACHA (11) is Thai chilli sauce, including distilled

vinegar. It is slightly hotter than kimchi, and commonly
available in fast-food joints across the globe. Sriracha is a
great base chilli sauce for dressings and marinades.

SHICHIMI (12), Japanese togarashi, consists of seven

different kinds of flavours, of which two have heat: ground
Sancho and red chilli. Other ingredients are hemp seeds,
aonori, sesame seeds, poppy seeds and orange peel.
Colourful and pretty, it is most commonly used as a
seasoning for noodles, more recently as a sushi topping,
and also in some robata dishes.

RED MISO (13), richer and darker in its flavour profile than
standard miso; it would have been fermented for longer.

MISO (14),or yellow miso, is the standard miso, fermented

for 6–9 months and used as a base ingredient for miso soup,
broths, marinades and dressings.
SWEET MISO (15) is less common and more difficult to
make. It is much sweeter, with a shorter ferment, and good
to use in desserts and baked goods.

MIRIN (16) is a sweet Japanese cooking wine similar to

sake, but with less alcohol and used exclusively in cooking.
Mirin adds a rounded sweetness to many dishes, preferred
to just pure sugar, and is an essential ingredient in Japanese
cooking.

COOKING SAKE (17) is standard sake, of a lesser quality

than drinking sake, but an essential ingredient for cooking
broths and marinades. It has been modified with pure
alcohol, therefore it is not recommended as a tipple as it
gives a terrible headache.

YUZU JUICE (18), made from the Japanese citrus fruit yuzu
(check the label for a pure yuzu), lasts best in the fridge
once open, or can be frozen. Fresh yuzu juice is less
common, but a magical ingredient which freezes well too.
All parts of the yuzu except for the large round white pips
are used in Japanese cooking.

SOY SAUCE (19), the most famous of all Japanese

ingredients, is used in almost all Japanese dishes or served
as a dipping sauce. Made from fermented and strained soy
bean, its savoury and salty flavour seasons most Japanese
cooking.
JAPANESE FISH SAUCE (20) is an important ingredient, not
as strong and harsh in its flavour as Thai or Indonesian fish
sauce, and typically made from small oily fish like
sardines. Used in soups, marinades and pickles.

LIQUID KOMBU DASHI (21) is made from kombu and is a

great flavour-enhancing ingredient used in pickles, sauces
and marinades.

A NOTE ON SOURCING SALMON

Working with Japanese food, I have seen my fair share of
wild and farmed salmon. Unfortunately, wild salmon has
never really been a viable option due to its price tag,
scarcity, short season, and the fact that salmon is the most
popular option for sushi.
I am a big advocate for responsibly farmed salmon for
many reasons; beyond supply and demand, I believe many
parts of the salmon industry have evolved dramatically over
the last three decades, responding well to concerns and
always improving. Try and seek out fisheries with high
standards for husbandry, low-environmental-impact
farming, sourcing sustainable feed, and with a low density
and fallow system working in harmony with the local wild
animal population.
Well-managed, small areas of the ocean can be a viable
option for producing healthy fish for a growing population,
but like all farming, we need to monitor the impact,
ensuring not to damage wild populations, and using feed
based on a healthy stock from a sustainable source – almost
identical to good farming practice. We also need to
consider our own consumption, eating healthy viable
options, just a little less often.
My preference in terms of flavour and texture is firm,
yet smooth; buttery, but not fatty. This is related to the
fitness of the fish, and the combination of fishmeal and fish
oil in the feed. For reassurance, look for the Label Rouge to
indicate good flavour and well-managed, responsibly
farmed salmon and animal welfare.
Salmon should be equally delicious raw as cooked, and
for salmon recipes (and the sea trout) in this book, the trick
is not to overgrill, so the fish is ‘just’ cooked, flaky, and the
product is enhanced.
For tips on preparing salmon, and details of the various
different cuts, see my website: sillabjerrum.com.
small salmon steaks for salmon negishio (shown here, here); trimmed
salmon; (front) salmon belly, (back) salmon skin (shown here)

SAUCES AND MARINADES

Tare sauce, made with soy, mirin and sake, is the most
commonly used basting sauce for robata recipes. Other
ingredients would typically include ginger, garlic, shiitake
and chicken stock. The sauce adds a lot of additional
flavour and depth to the robata, and it is highly
recommended to vary the flavours of the tare sauce across
different dishes. For a gluten-free version, replace soy
sauce with a good-quality tamari sauce (this is also alcohol-
free for a halal meal). To apply the tare sauce, use the dip
or brush method: decant the sauce into a rectangular
container long enough to hold the skewered produce, then
simply dip or use a sauce mop or silicone brush to brush
over the sauce.
I tend to thicken my tare sauce with potato flour; this is
not authentically Japanese, but I find it gives a slightly
thicker sauce, which needs fewer applications and therefore
doesn’t overcook the meat. I also like to brine yakitori
dishes as I find it keeps the chicken that bit more moist and
tender; again, this is an addition of my own.
Marinades, mostly soy-, miso- and dashi-based, are used
for robata dishes, and are a great way of enhancing and
altering the flavours of meat, fish and vegetables. These
dishes need a longer preparation time – anything from 1 to
48 hours – which requires extra planning, but makes the
workload less on the day of cooking.

TARE SAUCE
Place 12 chicken wing tips, 250ml (1 cup) boiling water, 2
dried shiitake mushrooms and a pinch of salt in a small
saucepan and simmer for 1 hour. Drain, retaining only the
liquid. Peel a 3cm (11/4in.) piece of fresh ginger and slice
thinly. Return the liquid to the pan, add 150ml (2/3 cup) soy
sauce, 150ml (2/3 cup) mirin, 2 cloves of garlic and the
ginger, and heat gently for 20 minutes until just before
boiling point. Combine a little potato flour with a little
water, reduce the heat and gradually add the flour mixture
until you have a thick, smooth sauce.

SAKE-MIRIN SPRAY
Bincho charcoal creates less dust than conventional
barbecue coals, and I like to use a sake-mirin spray to
control the flames and add moisture and flavour to the
food, particularly to protein-based dishes which have not
been marinated. It also builds up the sweetness and
crispiness of the food. I use a simple recipe of 100ml (scant
1/2 cup) each of cooking sake and mirin, and 300ml (11/4

cups) water in a spray bottle (do not recycle a cleaning

bottle, but invest in a food-only spray bottle).

COOKING TIMES
Grilling relies on many different things affecting the end
result: the quality of coals, the cooking device, weather and
quality of ingredients, so timings vary and are not set in
stone. Rule number one is to stay with the robata
throughout, as some dishes cook in a matter of minutes, or
need rotating, so no distractions!
Cooking on skewers is easier as all pieces are the same
size and, providing the coals are stacked neatly, the pieces
of meat should cook evenly. Follow the timing instructions
in the recipes, but if in doubt use one skewer as a tester,
cutting into a piece to check if it is cooked.
When cooking poultry on the bone, I recommend cutting
in as far as the bone of one piece to ensure the meat is
cooked all the way through. If it looks slightly raw and
bloody, return it to the robata. For red meat, press a finger
into the centre of the piece: if very soft and it feels like the
finger could sink into the meat, it is just seared; if it is soft
to touch and the imprint of the finger remains on the meat
for a few seconds, it is medium-rare; and if firm to the
touch then it is well done. Most red meat dishes would be
rare to medium-rare – robata-style dishes are rarely well
done – but do check your guests’ preferences.
Most recipes in this book will also be perfectly delicious
cooked in a conventional oven, but it goes without saying
that the true magic happens on the robata with the
binchotan.
How to enjoy the robata meal
Robata is a leisurely style of restaurant eating. It is slow
fast-food for diners, whereas yakitori tends to be more of
an impulsive snack with a few drinks – fast fast-food. The
major difference between yakitori and the commercial fast-
food we have encountered in the West for the last three
decades, is that more preparation and thought would have
gone in to the typical yakitori restaurant; it is very possible
to find a good-quality yakitori joint which is affordable and
tasty at the same time, both in Japan and in metropolitan
cities across the globe. I tend to find that the focus in
Japanese food is often on getting the maximum yield out of
the ingredients, and not so much about provenance, in
terms of animal welfare or fish sustainability. This is
obviously a very general observation, and new concepts
and restaurants are emerging in which themes around
sustainability are taking centre stage, so do ask questions to
help you find your favourite places.
Old-school robata restaurants based on the traditions of
Hokkaido tend to be expensive, but it is worth it simply for
the culinary experience, and it is usually a longer meal
experience. If you are eating in Japan, and are not fluent in
Japanese, it is easy to order as the menu will be laid out in
front of you. Typically, there will be a mixture of fish,
vegetables and tofu, enjoyed with a few small side plates
and miso soup, all served on long wooden trays to resemble
fishermen’s oars.
More modern robata-style places mix different kinds of
protein, including many meat dishes and other items from
the Japanese menu, such as sushi, sashimi and noodles.
Places like these are becoming a global trend and a great
form of dining as there is likely to be something on the
menu for everyone.
Nonetheless, this book is to encourage you to replicate
this style of cooking at home. It is all about buying good-
quality ingredients, having the right robata set-up for
grilling, and setting aside some time. The preparation is
time consuming, but should be recreational and in no way
stressful. For your first robata feast I recommend doing no
more than five grilled dishes for a maximum of ten people.
Include a mixture of all categories, but also select three side
dishes and a few nibbles.
Robata-style cooking is the perfect opportunity to
include local, seasonal dishes. When it comes to both fish
and animal protein robata dishes in particular, free-range
and sustainable is highly recommended. For beef, eating
less, and less often, is part of the larger solution to some of
the ecological challenges faced by our planet, and sharing a
steak among other dishes is achievable within the
parameters of the perfect robata meal.
At its core, robata-style eating is like tapas: dishes are
served as and when they are ready, and to be shared. It is
the perfect informal dinner party food, focusing on a few
great ingredients eaten in balance with vegetables and side
dishes. It is an antidote to our busy modern lifestyle, with
its emphasis on eating together, ‘breaking bread’ with
friends and family for comfort and sustenance.
There are no restrictions in terms of beverages, but I do
recommend including a miso soup as it lines the stomach
and is a great warming start to a meal; on a very hot day a
chilled tofu agadashi will have a similar cooling effect.
Guests can linger over nibbles with either a Japanese
twisted cocktail, good-quality chilled sake, a simple
Japanese beer, crisp chilled white wine or a full-bodied not-
too-sweet red – there really is no restriction. For alcohol-
free options, a yuzu cordial, green tea or mocktails are all
great.

Enjoy.
 fish robata
When chefs and home cooks know their fish, this should be
applauded; the best option is MSC-certified wild fish, which
gives you the reassurance that stocks are well managed and
fishing methods assessed to be sustainable with minimal
impact on the environment. There are many smaller, well-
managed fisheries who have the know-how and skills, built
over decades, to fish without harming the bio-diversity of the
sea.
Talk to your fishmonger about seasonality to ensure you
choose species when they are at their best. I cannot emphasize
enough the pleasure of going to your local fish market (aside
from the 4am start); this is how you get to know which fish are
in season, which traders have the best quality, when to buy and
how much to pay. I have had the pleasure of being associated
with London’s famous Billingsgate Fish Market, both as a
tenant and a teacher at the superb Seafood School, for over a
decade, and I struggle to find better quality anywhere in
London.
The beauty of robata is that the world is your oyster. The
recipes should inspire and can be easily adapted to alternative
species. Throw your net wide.
Large Blue Rope Mussels with Miso
Butter
This is a very simple recipe; all it takes is great-quality mussels
and some smouldering hot coals. I dress these in miso butter as
it gives a deep umami flavour. This is the perfect sharing dish to
serve after a few starter courses.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

60g (2oz./1/4 cup) unsalted butter

40g (11/2oz.) white miso
1kg (2lb. 4oz.) blue rope mussels
1/2 bunch of spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
1/2 bunch of coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper

Place the butter in a mixing bowl, cream it with a fork and add the miso
paste. Carry on working until it is a smooth consistency, then season with
pepper, place on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and make into a small
cylinder shape. Twist either end until you have an even shape, then leave in
the freezer to rest.

Start the robata grill. Clean the mussels: place all mussels in a large colander
under running water. Remove any open shells which do not close when
lightly tapped against a hard surface; these are dead and must be discarded.
Clean the rest one by one, removing any dirt or sand, and pull off the small
beard that sometimes appears along the opening of the mussel. Place the
mussels in a second colander as you progress and give them a final rinse
when done.

Pour all the mussels on to a wire rack over the robata, rotating them
occasionally; when they pop open they are cooked. Place the mussels on a
serving dish as they are ready, but keep the dish covered with a clean tea
(dish) towel as you work, just to keep them piping hot. Discard any mussels
which do not open during cooking (do not be tempted to force these open).
When they are all done, fetch the miso butter from the freezer, cut it into fine
slices and place on top of the mussels. Sprinkle with chopped spring onions
(scallions) and coriander (cilantro) and serve immediately.
Teriyaki Mackerel
Mackerel, the king of all fish in my humble opinion. Over the
years, the Japanese-style cured mackerel has become one of
my signature dishes, but equally fantastic is mackerel in a
teriyaki marinade, grilled to perfection on the robata. Only use
the freshest whole mackerel for this dish.

SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

31/2 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra for dipping

1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
2 tbsp yuzu juice (or pink grapefruit juice)
2 tbsp brown muscovado sugar
2 whole mackerel or 4 medium-sized fillets
2 tbsp potato flour
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
shichimi chilli powder
2 tbsp wasabi powder
1/2 pink grapefruit
vegetable oil

Place the soy, 11/2 tablespoons of water, ginger, yuzu juice and sugar in a
small bowl, then whisk rigorously to ensure all the ingredients are combined.
Set the marinade aside.

Ask your fishmonger to prepare your mackerel fillets on the day of cooking,
or ideally follow the tutorial on my website:
sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial. Pin-bone the mackerel and turn the fillet
skin side up. Cut inserts across each fillet about 5mm ( 1/5in.) apart. Place the
mackerel skin side up in a shallow tray, pour over the marinade and leave for
20 minutes in the fridge.
Start the robata grill. Remove the mackerel from the marinade and set aside
in the fridge. Pour the marinade into a small saucepan and heat gently. Dilute
the potato flour in a little water and add a little at a time to the marinade until
it thickens to a smooth, silky consistency.

Prepare the garnish: peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest setting of
a grater, then squeeze hard to get rid of the liquid and divide into four
portions. Shape into little round balls and sprinkle with the chilli powder.
Mix the wasabi powder with a little water and shape into four little balls. Cut
the grapefruit into eight wedges.

Place a wire rack over the robata and brush the mackerel and wire rack with a
little oil, then place the fish flesh side down and press flat with a spatula.
Grill for a few minutes until it takes on colour, then brush the skin side with
more oil and turn the fillets to fry the skin side for another few minutes until
light golden. Brush generously with sauce, rotate and repeat a few times.

Place the mackerel on a large serving dish, garnish with the mooli, wasabi
and pink grapefruit wedges. Serve with soy sauce as a dipping sauce on the
side.
Salmon Tataki in Nori Crust
Tataki is sashimi that has been seared on the outside and is
therefore still raw in the middle. Here, it is served on a bed of
crunchy mooli (daikon) with a ponzu dipping sauce.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce

2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp yuzu juice (or lemon juice)
2 tbsp honey
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of kombu
1/2 medium-sized mooli (daikon)
2 sheets of nori
400g (14oz.) salmon loin (the thicker end of one salmon fillet)
olive oil
coriander (cilantro) cress (optional)

Make the ponzu dipping sauce: add soy, mirin, yuzu and honey to a small
saucepan and heat through gently. Wipe the kombu clean with a damp cloth,
add to the dipping sauce and leave to simmer for 5 minutes to infuse. Decant
the ponzu into a plastic container, cover and leave in the fridge to infuse
further.

Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate along the length on the finest setting of a
Japanese mandoline. Place in a mixing bowl, add a handful of ice cubes and
top up with cold water to cover the mooli (daikon) fully.

Toast the nori in a dry frying pan (skillet) for a few minutes until crisp. Place
in a small blender or food processor, or use a pestle and mortar, and pulverize
the nori then spread out in a shallow tray.
Start the robata grill. Brush the salmon with oil and grill for 30 seconds to 1
minute on all its four sides, holding on to the loin with a set of tongs. Once
seared, place the salmon in the tray with the nori dust and roll until fully
covered, then place on a chopping board and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

Drain the mooli (daikon) salad and place on a long rectangular plate. With a
sharp sashimi knife, cut the salmon fillet into bite-sized pieces, place on top
of the mooli salad and sprinkle with coriander (cilantro) cress, if desired.
Serve with the ponzu dipping sauce.
Shiso-Marinated Giant Prawns
(Shrimp)
Shiso (or oba) leaves are Japanese leaves used in temaki rolls,
sashimi selections and cocktails. They have an aniseed flavour
to them, and are very delicate with a frilly mouth-feel, almost
like a large, thin mint leaf. These are commonly available at
Asian supermarkets or good-quality grocery stores that carry a
selection of micro cresses. Here the prawns (shrimp) are served
with a warm Sriracha chilli tomato salsa for additional punch.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12

4 spring onions (scallions)

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
3 cloves of garlic
1 lemon
1 pack of shiso leaves (about 12)
6 large king prawns (shrimp)
3 large heirloom or sun-ripe tomatoes
2 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce
1 tbsp toasted mixed sesame seeds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

First make the marinade. Peel, clean and remove the top half of the spring
onions (scallions) and chop into fine rings, then add to a mixing bowl with
the olive oil. Peel two cloves of garlic and slice thinly. Cut the lemon into
eight pieces, squeeze and add both juice and the lemon to the mixing bowl.
Take eight shiso leaves, roll into a tight cylinder shape, cut finely and add to
the marinade.

Now prepare the prawns (shrimp). Place a prawn (shrimp) on the chopping
board and stretch out its body, belly side down. Starting from the head, cut
the prawn (shrimp) straight down along the middle into equal-sized halves.
Along the back of one of the halved prawns (shrimp) the intestinal tract will
be visible; gently remove it with the tip of a knife and discard. Repeat with
the remainder of the prawns (shrimp). Place the prawns (shrimp) in a large
zip-lock bag, pour in the marinade and massage into the flesh. Align the
prawns (shrimp) inside the bag and fold the bag over to get rid of as much air
as possible. Zip the bag and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour.

While the prawns (shrimp) are marinating, make the salsa. Halve the
tomatoes and scoop out the seeds. Cut into quarters and then into tiny little
squares and add to a mixing bowl. Peel and finely chop the remaining clove
of garlic and add to the bowl with the mirin, soy, Sriracha and sesame seeds.
Taste and season with salt and pepper, then set aside.

Start the robata grill. Remove the prawns (shrimp) from the marinade and
place flesh side down on the grill for a few minutes, then turn and cook in the
shell for another few minutes. Pour in a little of the leftover marinade to
poach and keep the prawns (shrimp) moist. Turn the prawns (shrimp) for a
matter of seconds, then take off the grill to avoid overcooking.

Place a prawn (shrimp) on a chopping board, remove the flesh from the shell
and cut into four bite-sized pieces, then place back into the shell. Repeat with
the remainder and place on a serving dish. Spoon the salsa over the prawn
(shrimp) pieces and serve.
◁ Sea Bream Fillet with Summer
Pickles of Lemon and Courgette
(Zucchini)
Sea bream is a relatively inexpensive fish, but hugely
overlooked, which is a shame as it lends itself very well to
Asian-style dishes, either fried or grilled. The fish I use is wild-
caught in the north European seas, or farmed, mainly in
Greece, where it is known as black gilthead bream.
The flesh is not dissimilar to bass, but has a deeper flavour
and firmer texture, so is good with complex flavours. Here, it is
served with spring pickles of yellow courgette (zucchini) and
Sicilian lemon, and a jalapeño wakame salsa. The pickles will
benefit from at least day three days’ pickling, and will keep for
up to a month in a sterilized jar kept in a cool place. These
pickles are inspired by my own mother’s teaching, so have a
more Nordic leaning, using vinegar as the pickling medium as
opposed to the traditional Japanese technique of salt, dashi
and/or fish sauce.
SERVES 4

2 sea bream, scaled and gutted

1 knob of fresh ginger
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
salt

FOR THE WAKAME SALSA

10g (1/3oz.) dried wakame seaweed
1 small green courgette (zucchini)
1/2 cucumber
2 fresh jalapeño chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp kimchi or Sriracha chilli sauce

FOR THE SUMMER PICKLES

1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
300–400ml (11/4–13/4 cups) sushi vinegar
1 tsp peppercorns
1 large red chilli
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
4 sprigs of lemon thyme
1 yellow courgette (zucchini)
1 Sicilian or unwaxed lemon

You will need: large sterilized jar for the pickles (shown here)

First make the pickles. Toast the coriander and mustard seeds in a saucepan
for a few minutes until the aromas are released. Add the vinegar,
peppercorns, chilli, sugar and lemon thyme and stir for a few minutes until
the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.

Wash the yellow courgette (zucchini), cut into quarters lengthways and
remove the seeds. Cut each quarter into 1cm (1/2in.) pieces and place in the
jar. Peel the lemon with a peeler (retain the peel for another recipe) and
remove as much of the pith as possible without bruising the flesh. Cut the
lemon into very thin slices. Slide these along the sides of the pickling jar.
When the pickling liquid is cooled, pour into the jar, seal the lid and leave for
at least 3 days in a dry, cool place.
On the day of cooking, scale the sea bream, then slit open the fish and
remove the stomach sac and other innards. Rinse the fish under the cold tap
and check all scales are removed; these tend to be very large on this fish. Dry
the fish in kitchen (paper) towel and score each with three slits about 5mm
(1/5in.)deep, allowing the marinade to penetrate the flesh.

Rub the ginger clean under a cold tap and dry on kitchen (paper) towel. Slice
into thin slices, place in a shallow tray and pour in the oil and soy sauce.
Place the sea bream in to marinate. Place in the fridge for 15 minutes, then
turn the fish and marinate for a further 15 minutes.

Start the robata grill. Meanwhile, make the wakame salsa. Place the wakame
in a large container of ice-cold water; I like to use a 1:10 ratio of wakame to
water to ensure it blooms as much as possible. Wash the courgette (zucchini)
and cut into tiny cubes. Repeat with the cucumber, removing the seeds as
well. Place the courgette (zucchini), cucumber, chillies and garlic in a bowl
with the olive oil and chilli sauce, and season with salt. When the wakame is
fully bloomed, drain, chop finely and add to the salsa.

Grill the sea bream on an oiled wire rack over the robata for 3–4 minutes on
each side, turning four times. Use a fish slice or spatula to carefully lift off
the wire rack when turning, so as not to tear the skin. Place the fish on a plate
with the salsa alongside and serve with a helping of seasonal summer pickles
on the side and the Summer Salad of Okra, Tomatoes and Toasted Quinoa.
◁Lemon Sole with Sancho Pepper
and Squash Kimchi
In this recipe I am using lemon sole, as the delicate white flesh
cooks easily on the robata. Here, it’s served with Sancho, a
pepper harvested from the Japanese prickly ash; Sancho has a
distinctive lemony flavour similar to yuzu, perfect for grilled
fish.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

1 white scallop squash (or any soft-skin variety of squash)

4 spring onions (scallions)
50g (2oz.) flaky sea salt
31/2 tbsp shop-bought kimchi marinade
1 lemon sole, gutted
11/2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
vegetable oil
Sancho pepper
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sake-Mirin Spray

The kimchi pickles take up to 4 hours to pickle and can be made one day in
advance. Wash the squash, cut it in half and deseed. Cut it into thin half-
moon shaped slices and place in a mixing bowl. Clean the spring onions
(scallions), removing the first outer layer, and trim either end, then cut into
four equal pieces and cut each piece in half again, then add to the mixing
bowl and spend a few minutes rubbing the sea salt into the vegetables.

Place a plate on top of the squash and weigh it down with something heavy.
Leave to cure for 3 hours, but return to it every 30 minutes to turn; after 3
hours the liquid should have run out of the squash and be in the base of the
bowl. Drain in a colander and taste the vegetables. They should be tender, but
not too salty. If they’re very salty, rinse in cold water if needed. Mix in the
kimchi marinade and place in an airtight container; these will last for up to a
week in the fridge.

Start the robata grill. Ideally, serve this dish later in the meal, as the coals
should not be too hot and are best after 1 hour, or the fish will cook too fast.

On the darker skin side, slit the fish 4–5 times, about 5mm (1/5in.) deep. Rub
the fish in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place a wire rack
over the robata and brush one half of the rack with vegetable oil, then place
the lemon sole white side down. Grill for 4–5 minutes until it starts taking on
colour. Brush the other part of the wire rack with vegetable oil and brush the
skin of the lemon sole an additional time too, then using a large spatula, flick
over the fish, ready to grill the skin side, using the sake-mirin spray to control
the flames. Grill the skin side for 8–10 minutes, until the flesh is cooked to
the core; a skewer inserted into the centre of the fish will be hot to the touch
when the fish is cooked through. Gently run the spatula in between the wire
rack and the fish, lifting the fish off the robata carefully so as not to tear the
crispy skin.

Transfer to a large serving dish, sprinkle with Sancho pepper and serve with
kimchi pickles and additional pickles such as the Kappa Pickles and Pickled
Baby Turnips.
◁Chilean Sea Bass with Choy Sum and
Onion Relish
Chilean sea bass, also known as a Patagonian toothfish, is a
white flaky fish in the cod family. It is a large, slow-growing,
deep-swimming fish that mostly inhabits the southern Pacific
and Antarctica. Not an inexpensive fish, but a real treat and
now MSC-certified. Chilean sea bass is found in the fish counter
at most good fishmongers.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

1 medium-ripe mango
1kg (2lb. 4oz.) red onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp kombu dashi
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 x 170g (6oz.) Chilean sea bass steaks, skin on
olive oil
large bunch of choy sum
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) and line a baking tray with a
silicone sheet. Peel the mango, then continue to peel the flesh, making strips
of mango. Place the strips a few centimetres apart on the baking tray, then put
the tray in the oven and leave for 2–3 hours, checking the mango every 20
minutes.

Make the onion relish. Place the onion in a sauté pan with the kombu dashi,
red wine vinegar and 300ml (11/4 cups) of water, and leave to simmer over a
low heat for 30 minutes, until the onions are soft and almost disintegrated.
When the relish and mango garnish are ready, start the robata grill.

Pin-bone the Chilean sea bass steaks, rub in a little olive oil, season with salt
and pepper, then set aside. Trim the ends of the choy sum, remove and
discard any bruised leaves, then cut the choy sum in half, keeping both leaves
and stalks. Set up a steamer and steam for a few minutes, then turn the
steamer off and leave the choy sum inside to keep warm.

When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the robata and place a small
saucepan of red onion relish on the heat. Oil the wire rack and grill the sea
bass for 8–12 minutes, carefully flipping over midway. Use the sake-mirin
spray to calm the flames and keep the fish moist. To ensure the Chilean sea
bass is cooked through before removing from the heat, insert a fine metal
skewer into the middle of the fish. If the tip of the skewer is hot, the fish is
cooked through.

When the fish is ready, place a little onion relish on four plates, some choy
sum on top, followed by the sea bass, and garnish with the mango chips.
Miso-cured Black Cod, Atlantic Cod
and Salmon
Miso black cod is a true triumph. Black cod is also known as
sablefish and very different to the cod we know. It is packed
with omega 3 oils, and not dissimilar to halibut in its fat
content, but much more mellow in its flavour. Due to its high
fat content it is not an easy fish to cook, and the miso marinade
really ties the flaky flesh together. I recommend a marinating
time of around 24 to 36 hours, which gives great results. Black
cod is available frozen in specialist stores; it is delicious and a
great culinary experience without being too complicated to do
at home. It is not commonly available, but a good fishmonger
should be able to source black cod if ordered in advance. That
said, I do think the same technique works very well with other
fatty fish, and I have included Atlantic cod and salmon here,
which are slightly less fatty and firmer in the flesh, so the miso
curing time can be reduced further to 18–24 hours.
For the miso marinade, the sugar, sake and mirin are added
to enhance its potency. If a sweet white miso were used
instead there would be no need for the additional ingredients,
but it would also be very expensive, so adding the other
ingredients to the miso marinade is common.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

400g (14oz.) yellow miso

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
4 x 150g (5oz.) fillets of black cod, salmon or Atlantic cod
sunflower oil

Place the miso, sugar, mirin and sake in a saucepan and melt over a gentle
heat. Using a whisk, ensure that the miso does not burn on the base or sides
of the pan. When all the ingredients are fully incorporated, pour into a
shallow dish and leave to cool for 10 minutes.

Place the fish fillets in the miso paste, and turn and rub in the marinade to
ensure they are fully covered. Cover the tray with cling film (plastic wrap)
and leave to cure for 18–24 hours for Atlantic cod and salmon, and 24–36
hours for black cod. It is recommended to turn the fillets 2–3 times in the
marinade.

On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Remove the fish from the fridge
and use your hands to remove most of the marinade, then with a damp
disposable cloth, wipe off the last of the marinade. It is important that no
residue of the marinade is left on the fish as it will cause the fish to poach
instead of grilling.

Brush the skin side with oil and place on a wire rack on the robata, skin side
down. Leave to grill for a few minutes until starting to crisp. Turn the fish,
brushing the skin with oil, and leave until just cooked through, about 8–10
minutes depending on the intensity of the robata. Use a metal skewer to
check if the fish is cooked through: a skewer inserted into the centre of the
fish will be hot to the touch when the fish is cooked through.
◁Smoked and Robata’ed Salmon
Belly
Responsibly farmed or wild salmon is a precious commodity
and therefore best enjoyed with the mantra of nose to tail
eating. Buy whole salmon and use all parts – bones and head
for a light salmon stock base for miso, the descaled skins as
crispy shards in salads, and so on. It is easy to end up with a
surplus of salmon belly, so I am smoking this part of the
salmon, adding a mellow flavour of green tea and then crisping
up the skin on the robata grill.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 tbsp genmai tea leaves

2 tbsp demerara (raw brown) sugar
2 tbsp brown rice
4 x 150g (5oz.) pieces of salmon belly
300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) Japanese rice
2 spring onions (scallions)
30g (1oz.) Japanese pickled ginger
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
11/2 tbsp Teriyaki Sauce
vegetable oil

Combine the genmai tea leaves, demerara (raw brown) sugar and brown rice
and place in the base of a wok. Place four loose chopsticks and a sushi rolling
mat inside the wok, well above the rice mixture, put the salmon bellies on top
and cover with tin foil. Smoke the salmon belly for 12–14 minutes under the
foil lid, then gently transfer to a chopping board to cool a little.
Wash the rice four times under cold water, drain, and leave to rest for 10
minutes. Place the rice in a saucepan with about 10 per cent more water than
rice. Bring the rice to the boil, then allow to simmer for 15 minutes until all
the water is absorbed, and leave to rest for 10 minutes in the pan.
Alternatively, use a rice cooker.

Start the robata grill. Prepare the garnish for the Japanese rice: cut the spring
onions (scallions) in fine rings, rinse in water and leave to drain for a few
minutes in a sieve. Finely chop the pickled ginger and combine with the
sesame seeds and spring onions (scallions) in a bowl.

Place a wire rack on the robata and oil with a little vegetable oil. Place the
salmon belly skin side down and grill for a few minutes until the skin has
crisped up. Divide the rice between four bowls, sprinkle over the seed and
ginger mixture, place the salmon belly on top and drizzle with teriyaki sauce.
◁ Cured and Robata’ed Sea Trout
Sea trout is an excellent alternative to salmon. It has a beautiful
deep pink colour and fine slim fat lines for a firm fish. In this
recipe it is cured for only a few hours for a gravadlax effect, and
can be flavoured with any fresh herbs. The grilling creates a
caramelized seared edge.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp sake
1/2 side of wild sea trout (the wider side closest to the head), about 800–
900g (1lb. 12oz.–2lb.)
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
140g (5oz./2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
70g (21/2oz.) coarse sea salt
bunch of fresh herbs, such as mint or shiso leaves
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Pour the sake into a shallow tray. With a pointy knife, pierce the flesh side of
the sea trout about eight times, then place the fish flesh side down in the tray
and leave to marinate for 20 minutes at room temperature.

Meanwhile, toast the fennel and coriander seeds in a dry pan until their aroma
is released, then add to a pestle and mortar and crack the seeds. Add the sugar
and salt and combine with the toasted spices.

Remove the sea trout from the sake marinade and place on a piece of baking
parchment, flesh side up. Press the sugar cure on to the flesh and top with
chopped fresh herbs. Ensure the flesh is evenly and fully covered, then wrap
the fillet tightly in the paper, ensuring all folds are neat and even. Wrap in
cling film (plastic wrap) and place in a shallow tray in the fridge and weigh
down with a heavy milk carton or similar for 3–5 hours.

On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Unwrap the sea trout and discard
the wrapping and residue sugar mix. Ensure that all of the curing mixture is
removed, but avoid washing the fish. Skin the fillet and discard.

Brush the sea trout with a little oil and grill over the robata pit for a few
minutes until the skin is crisp and the fish is lightly cooked, about 4 minutes
on each side. Cook the sea trout later in a robata setting, when the coals are
not at the height of their heat. Due to the sugar and alcohol which have
penetrated the flesh during the short cure, you will need to work very fast so
as not to burn the fish, aiming for a grilled outside but the fish on the inside
just heated through. Control the flames with a little sake-mirin spray. Serve
with Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Crispy Balsamic Onigiri.
◁ Salmon Smoked on Yuzu Leaves
This recipe uses the technique of packing a whole salmon with
yuzu, fresh herbs and olive oil, wrapping it in a newspaper
(avoiding any coloured ink) and tying it tightly. The trick is then
to submerge the whole wrap in water until soaked through,
then put it over direct heat on a barbecue, and as the
newspaper dries and burns, the fish inside will partially poach
and partially smoke, giving a very light and delicate result.
However, since we are grilling on the robata and the heat is
more intense than a normal barbecue, I have altered the recipe
slightly to allow for more soaking time.
Yuzu is such a precious fruit, and the skin, rind and juice all
find their way into Japanese cuisine. Yuzu leaves may not be
easy to get hold of, but using a combination of lemongrass and
lime leaves also creates a stunning result.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

1/2 side of salmon (the wider end near the head), about 1kg (2lb. 4oz.)
40 yuzu leaves (alternatively, use 20 lime leaves and 3 stalks of bashed
lemongrass)
3 tbsp yuzu juice
grated zest of 2 yuzu (or use 1 organic pink grapefruit)
good-quality olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the salmon skin side down, trimming off the tail end for other dishes.
Cut the salmon into two equal-length blocks. One will be slightly wider than
the other, but that is fine as long as you keep this one on the bottom when
putting the recipe together.

Rub the flesh side of each piece well in olive oil, and season with salt and
pepper. Take half the leaves and spread out into a rectangle on the newspaper
so the large side of the salmon just fits on top. Place the larger piece of
salmon on the leaves, flesh side up. Pour half the yuzu juice on to the flesh,
rubbing the juice into the flesh so it does not run off the fillet. Add the yuzu
zest, season again with salt and pepper, and pour over the remainder of the
yuzu juice, then place the other salmon fillet on top, flesh side down so flesh
sits on flesh. Wrap the newspaper tightly around the salmon fillets, like a
perfectly wrapped Christmas present. Rest the wrap on its fold and then tie
with cooking string. Now soak the whole pack in water while starting the
robata grill, about 20–30 minutes.

Remove the salmon from its water and leave to drain on a draining board.
Place a wire rack over the coals and grill over a medium direct heat; because
the newspaper is damp it should not catch fire, however if the paper dries and
start burning, control it with the sake-mirin spray. The salmon will essentially
smoke inside the paper, and I recommend doing this dish at the end of the
robata session as the coals start calming down. Cook for approximately 20–
25 minutes; this is a little longer than the usual robata-style grilling, as the
heat needs to penetrate the wrap. Serve with Grilled Onigiri with Furikake
and Seaweed Salad with Smooth Wasabi Dashi Dressing.
◁ Heavenly Salmon 5 Ways
Salmon is one of the most popular fish across the Western
world when making Japanese food; it may not be that
common in Japan, but outside its borders the salmon is king. In
this show-stopper recipe it is given the finest robata treatment,
with five different incarnations of the fish, using salmon skin,
salmon ikura, salmon negishio, salmon tskune and salmon
teriyaki.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

skin of 1/2 fillet of salmon

300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) Japanese rice
4 small salmon steaks (for negishio)
4 salmon fillets (for teriyaki)
100g (31/2oz.) salmon offcuts
1 spring onion (scallion), finely chopped
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp potato flour
1/2 tsp sesame oil
1/2 cucumber
1 red chilli
200ml (3/4 cup) sushi vinegar
1 portion Negishio Dressing
4 shiso leaves
30g (1oz.) salmon eggs (ikura)
1/2 piece of nori
olive oil
FOR THE TERIYAKI SAUCE
90ml (6 tbsp) soy sauce
90ml (6 tbsp) mirin
90ml (6 tbsp) sake
50ml (31/2 tbsp) local honey
2 tbsp potato flour

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3. Rinse the salmon skin in

water, place outer skin side up on a baking tray lined with a silicone baking
sheet or baking parchment, and cook in the oven for 40–50 minutes, until
crisp. Wash the rice four times in cold running water and leave to rest for 20
minutes. Cook the rice in a saucepan with about 10 per cent more water than
rice, for 17 minutes. Alternatively, cook the rice in a rice cooker. Set aside.

For the teriyaki sauce, place the soy sauce, mirin, sake and honey in a small
saucepan and warm gently over a medium heat. Just before it reaches boiling
point, combine the potato flour with a little cold water and gradually add to
the pan to thicken the sauce. You may not need all the potato flour. Set aside.

Prepare the salmon for the negishio and teriyaki (see here, and my website
for guidance: sillabjerrum.com). Now make the salmon tsukune. Use any
offcuts from preparing the negishio and teriyaki pieces of salmon. Finely
chop the salmon, add to a bowl with the spring onions (scallions), garlic
powder, potato flour and sesame oil. Leave to rest in the fridge for 10
minutes to firm up, then mould into four equal-sized balls and shape into
round discs. Skewer each with two skewers.

Start the robata grill. Slice the cucumber on the finest setting of a Japanese
mandoline. Add to a bowl with the chilli and sushi vinegar, and leave to
pickle. When the robata is ready, grill the pieces of salmon for the negishio,
teriyaki and tskune on an oiled wire rack. Leave for a few minutes to take on
colour, then turn to grill for a further few minutes on the other side. Dip and
rotate the salmon teriyaki in the teriyaki sauce and return to the grill for a few
seconds to caramelize. Do the same with the tskune, basting it in the teriyaki
sauce. Dress the salmon negishio in the negishio dressing.
Now it is time to assemble. Place a little rice in the base of four individual
shallow serving bowls. Add a portion of cucumber pickle, lean a shiso leaf
against the cucumber pickle and spoon some salmon eggs alongside. Place
one piece of tsukune, teriyaki and negishio in each bowl. Drizzle any
remaining sauce over the negishio and teriyaki salmon, and garnish with
shards of salmon skin and nori.
◁ Tuna Tataki with Salsa Verde
A classic tataki dish using yellowfin tuna loin. Tuna is another
complicated matter, and I personally took the ethical decision
not to eat or serve bluefin tuna back in the late 1990s when it
became very apparent what an enormous pressure this mighty
fish had been under for at least four decades. Bluefin tuna is
the king of fish in Japanese food, in particular for sushi and
sashimi, famed for its smooth texture and the fatty part named
toro. However, wild stock is on the brink of collapse and
currently the outlook is grim. The best alternative is yellowfin
from the Eastern Pacific, where stock is healthy and fishing is
well managed and monitored.
To me, yellowfin tuna is equally tasty and actually easier to
work with as it comes in a firm, even loin not dissimilar to a
good piece of beef. I recommend eating tuna in moderation,
but really go to town when you do: source the finest quality
from the fish market or a reputable fishmonger.

SERVES 4–6 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

700–800g (1lb. 9oz.–1lb. 12oz.) tuna loin, middle cut

2g (1/2 tsp) dried wakame seaweed
1 tsp wasabi powder
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1/2 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp mirin
40g (11/2oz./1/4 cup) drained capers, finely chopped
150ml (2/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to coat the fish
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the tuna loin on a chopping board: cut away the sinew part of the
loin, which constitutes the belly flap on a yellowfin tuna (store this in the
fridge and scrape out the tuna with a spoon when needed, to use in another
recipe). Divide the loin left on the chopping board into rectangular logs about
2.5cm (1in.) in diameter, getting 4–6 blocks out of the loin. Pour a little olive
oil into a shallow tray and season with salt and pepper. Roll the loins in the
oil, ensuring they are well coated, and set aside in the fridge, covered.

Now make the salsa verde. Dilute the wakame in 500ml (2 cups) cold water
and leave to bloom for 10 minutes. Mix the wasabi powder with a little water
to make a paste. In a mixing bowl, combine the parsley, garlic, wasabi paste,
mustard, mirin, capers and olive oil. Drain and chop the wakame and add to
the bowl, then set aside.

Start the robata grill. When it is ready, grill the tuna on a wire rack for less
than a minute on each side, so it is evenly seared. With a very sharp cook’s
knife or sashimi knife, slice the tuna in 5mm (1/5in.) thick slices, starting
from the heel of the knife and pulling the knife towards yourself in one even
movement, to avoid sawing through the protein and tearing the flesh.

Arrange the tuna tataki slices along the length of the serving dish,
overlapping one another. Spoon a little salsa verde on top and serve with
Green Beans and Sugar Snap Peas with Mustard Miso.
◁ Giant Scallop Sake Poached in Shell
This is such a simple recipe and works fantastically well with
giant hand-dived king scallops, but if these are not available,
good-quality large, hand-dived scallops are the perfect
substitute.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

4 king scallops, live and in shell

1 tbsp salted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp sake
2 tsp mirin
2 tsp light soy sauce
few sprigs of chives

Insert a shucking or filleting knife into the hinge of the scallop and twist the
knife a few times until the two shells separate slightly. Run the knife along
the flat shell to detach the scallop and remove this shell. Now gently cut
between the scallop meat and the shell to detach the scallop from the curvy
shell. Remove and discard the ‘frilly’ membrane and stomach. Gently clean
the scallop and orange coral under cold running water; be very sparing with
the water to avoid washing away the sweetness of the scallop, while still
ensuring these are cleaned. Set the scallops aside. Discard the flat shells and
clean the curved shells.

Start the robata grill. Place the clean shell on the robata when ready, then
gently melt a little butter in each. Add a quarter of the shallot and garlic to
each. Fry for approximately 1 minute, then add the scallop and turn a few
times to take on colour. Add a little sake and mirin to each and simmer until
just cooked through. Finish with soy sauce and cook for a further 1 minute.
Place the scallops on a serving dish and garnish with chives.
◁Seared Scallops on Quinoa Brown
Seeded Rice
Serving this dish in individual bowls works best and is a good
way to ensure all guests are ‘equally’ fed. The essence of robata
is of course to serve dishes tapas-style and everybody tuck in to
share, however sometimes it works really well having at least
one course served individually. In this recipe, I have used a
mixture of complex carbohydrates for the base, but it can also
be served with plain white Japanese rice.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) red quinoa

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) basmati brown rice
100g (31/2oz./2/3 cup) toasted buckwheat
20 medium hand-dived fresh scallops, in shell or shucked
300g (101/2oz.) steamed broccoli
20g (3/4oz.) chia seeds (white, black or both)
20g (3/4oz.) mixed sesame seeds
4 tbsp soy sauce
1 small knob of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 clove of garlic, peeled and grated
30g (1oz./11/2 tbsp) butter
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) Teriyaki Sauce
100g (31/2oz.) pea shoots or coriander (cilantro) micro cress
1 red chilli, cut into thin slices on the diagonal, seeds discarded
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the three grains together and rinse three times under cold running water,
then leave to rest for 10 minutes. Cook the grains in double the amount of
water (2:1), by first bringing to the boil and then leaving to simmer over a
low heat for 35–40 minutes. When all the water is absorbed and the grains
nice and fluffy, leave to rest for 20 minutes, covered.

If you bought the scallops in their shells, you need to shuck these. Insert a
shucking or filleting knife into the hinge and twist the knife a few times until
the shells separate slightly. Run the knife along the flat shell to detach the
scallop and remove this shell. Gently cut between the scallop meat and the
shell to detach the scallop from the curvy shell. Remove and discard the
‘frilly’ membrane and stomach. Clean the scallop and orange coral under
running water; be very sparse with the water to avoid washing away the
sweetness of the scallop, but ensure they are cleaned. Place the scallops and
corals on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel.

Start the robata grill. Wash the broccoli in cold water, drain, add to a mixing
bowl and dress in olive oil. Mix the grains with the chia and sesame seeds
and season with salt and pepper. Divide the grains between four bowls and
cover to keep warm. For the dressing, make a soy butter. Pour the soy sauce
into a small saucepan, add the ginger, garlic and butter and melt over a gentle
heat.

Place a wire rack over the robata, brush with oil and start grilling the
broccoli, rotating every few minutes until al dente and slightly charred. Move
the broccoli to the side of the robata to keep hot. Now grill the scallops and
corals, turning every few minutes and spraying intermittently with the sake
spray. The scallops only need a few minutes to sear on the outside, literally
until just warmed through and still translucent on the inside. Toss the cooked
scallops in the teriyaki sauce, then place the scallops and broccoli on top of
the grains, drizzle with the soy butter, top with pea shoots or micro cress and
a few slices of chilli, and serve.
◁ Lobster with Yuzu Drizzle
This dish is all about simplicity: grilled lobster with a delicious
yuzu drizzle, similar to a loose hollandaise sauce. Use local
lobster from a well-managed fishery to avoid food miles on this
mighty crustacean.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 lobsters, approximately 700g (1lb. 9oz.) each

1 tbsp olive oil
120g (41/4oz/1/2 cup) unsalted butter
2 egg yolks
3 tbsp yuzu juice
handful of small mint leaves, finely chopped
handful of pea shoots or pea shoot cress
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
zest of 1 unwaxed lemon, sliced julienne-style
salt and freshly ground black and white pepper

Start the robata grill. With a large cook’s knife in one hand, use the other
hand to place the lobsters on a chopping board, belly side down, and stretch
out. Cut the lobster into two equal halves from the top of the head to the tail.
Brush the flesh inside with olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.
Set aside while making the yuzu drizzle.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. In a separate small saucepan, bring some
water to a simmer and place a heatproof bowl on top. Place the egg yolks and
yuzu in a food processor and process to a foamy consistency, then gently add
the melted butter and process to make a smooth emulsion. Pour the sauce into
the bowl over the pan of water and whisk until light and fluffy, ensuring the
eggs do not congeal. Add the mint leaves and season with salt and white
pepper to taste.

Place a wire rack on the robata, brush with oil and grill the lobsters until
cooked and tender. Transfer to a serving plate with the yuzu drizzle alongside
the lobster. Top with pea shoots and sprinkle with sesame seeds and lemon
zest.
◁ Soft-Shell Crab on Crab Rice
Most soft-shell crabs are eaten breaded and shallow-fried,
particularly in the USA, or in the Japanese tradition they’re
dipped in tempura batter or cornflour (cornstarch) and deep-
fried. However, these are absolutely fantastic on the robata too,
and here they’re served on a crab-flavoured rice. In the UK,
Devon crab is my preference; it is sweet and succulent during
the summer season. Ideally, use the best-quality crab from the
coastal areas nearest to where you live, or source it from a good
fishmonger or fish market.
SERVES 4–6 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

8 large soft-shell crabs

300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) round-grain Japanese sushi rice
1/3 cucumber, halved lengthways, deseeded and chopped into small cubes
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sushi vinegar
50g (2oz.) edamame beans
200g (7oz.) hand-picked crab meat
1/2 bunch of fresh dill, stalks removed, finely chopped
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
2 tsp yuzu juice or juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sake-Mirin Spray

Ensure the soft-shell crab are defrosted; if not, keep them in their individual
wraps under a running tap until defrosted.
Wash the sushi rice 6–8 times until the water runs clear. Leave to rest for 30
minutes, then place in a saucepan and add water – about 10 per cent more
water than rice – bring to the boil and leave to simmer over a low heat for 17
minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 15 minutes.
Alternatively, prepare the rice in a rice cooker. When the rice is ready, decant
it into a mixing bowl to cool.

Remove the crabs from their plastic wraps ready for cleaning. They have a
soft, thin shell across their body: gently lift this from the side and rinse the
main body, removing any light gunk beneath its skin. Be careful not to detach
the shell. Repeat on the other side and with the remainder of the crabs. Line a
tray with kitchen (paper) towel and place the crabs on it, spread out side by
side in their full glory, then transfer to the fridge while preparing the other
ingredients.

Start the robata grill. Place the cucumber in a bowl and cover with sushi
vinegar. Cover the edamame beans in boiling water and a pinch of salt for 5
minutes, then drain.

Check through the hand-picked crab meat to remove any bones. In a bowl,
mix the crab meat with the drained cucumber pickles, edamame, dill, sesame
seeds, yuzu or lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Fold into
the lukewarm rice and set aside while grilling the soft-shell crabs.

Brush the soft-shell crabs with olive oil and season with a pinch of sea salt.
Place on a wire rack over the robata and grill for a few minutes until they
start to take on colour. Spray with the sake-mirin spray to keep them moist
and add flavour. The crabs are done when bright pink. Spoon the rice salad
into a large serving bowl and place the soft-shell crabs on top, ready to serve.
 other robata
Traditionally, robata dishes were centred around fish, based on
the daily catch of the Hokkaido fishermen and the local
seasonal vegetables available. As robata has evolved, both in
Japan and globally, there has been a rush to adapt great pieces
of meat and more interesting vegetables using the robata
treatment.
In this chapter, sharing dishes of pork, lamb, beef and
poultry are included, all suitable for communal eating. The
provenance of meat is important for both ethical and quality
reasons, so do shop with consideration; you get what you pay
for. I recommend free-range meat, or organic if viable, not only
for quality, but as a matter of principle, as our eating habits
impact the planet we all share.
Traditionally, larger pieces of meat are not often found in
robata restaurants, but are perfect for cooking at home.
Moderation is key. The beauty of robata is that it allows the
option of serving a glorious piece of meat for a group to share,
in combination with some fish, vegetable and carbohydrate-
based dishes. It also caters easily for carnivores, vegetarians and
pescatarians, all in the same meal.
Butterflied Poussin with Yuzu Honey
Glaze
Poussin is a great small bird for robata, benefiting from the
intense heat and short cooking time, leaving it tender with a
slight hint of gamey flavour.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 whole poussin
2 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tbsp yuzu juice
11/2 tbsp runny honey
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start the robata grill. To prepare the poussin, remove the neck and parson’s
nose, cut down the centre of the back and open up the poussin (like a book).
Turn the bird flesh side up, then place your hands flat on the bird and press it
flat using your body weight. Rinse the birds under cold running water, dab
dry with kitchen (paper) towel, then rub the birds in olive oil and season with
salt and pepper. Mix the yuzu juice with the honey in a bowl and set aside.

Place a wire rack over the robata pit, place the birds over the hotter part of the
robata to seal in the juices, then move to the cooler part, turning every 2
minutes and keeping them moist with the sake-mirin spray. Brush the skin
with the honey and yuzu glaze, continuing to turn the birds and using up the
glaze. These birds cook fast, so keep rotating. This process takes up to 20
minutes depending on the intensity of the coals. When the birds are cooked,
place on a chopping board, cut into four pieces each, and serve with Aonori
Flatbread.
Japanese Yam Potato
This is a torpedo-shaped starchy crop with deep pink skin and
creamy flesh, also known as mountain yam, and available from
Japanese grocery stores.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

4 medium yam potatoes

30g (1oz.) chives
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt

With a clean, hard brush, scrub the potatoes clean of dirt, but keep the skin as
intact as possible. Cut the tip off each potato, then cut the potatoes in half
along the length and then into three wedges each. Start a steamer and steam
the wedges for 5–7 minutes; pierce them with a knife to check they are al
dente, then remove from the steamer. Leave to cool for at least 10 minutes.

Start the robata grill. When the robata is ready, place a wire rack over the
coals and brush with oil. Place the potatoes on top, brush with olive oil and
leave to take on colour for a few minutes. Control the heat and flames with
the sake-mirin spray.

Rotate the potatoes regularly, brushing with oil and controlling the flames
with the spray. Once cooked, dress with a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly
snipped chives.
Miso Lamb Chops
This is a classic dish in modern robata joints in most
metropolitan cities. It works best with a baby rack of lamb cut
into chops, a good size for finger food. These are so good and
should be one of the hero dishes of a robata meal.

SERVES 4 | MAKES 12

300g (101/2oz.) white miso

4 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp sake
4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
12 lamb chops from a baby rack of lamb, (about 2 x 300g/101/2oz. racks)

FOR THE SRIRACHA MISO DIP

60g (21/4oz.) yellow miso
2 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce

Place the miso, mirin, sake and sugar in a small saucepan. Heat through over
a medium heat, whisking well to melt the sugar and incorporate the sake and
mirin. Decant into a shallow tray and leave to cool while preparing the lamb.

Cut the racks between each joint into chops of equal thickness. Ensure that
each cutlet’s bone is free of meat or sinew as these work as the ‘handle’ for
eating with. Place the cutlets in the miso marinade, turn a few times, ensuring
they are fully covered, and leave to marinate in the fridge for a minimum of 4
hours or overnight.

For the dip, place all the ingredients in a bowl, mix well and set aside.
Start the robata grill and place a wire rack over the bincho coals. Now rinse
the miso marinade off the cutlets; it is very important that all the marinade is
removed as otherwise it will ‘encase’ the meat, which will poach instead of
grilling. Grill the cutlets for 2–3 minutes on each side, rotating a few times to
ensure the cutlets are cooked. Serve medium-rare or cooked through,
according to preference, with the Sriracha miso dip alongside.
Cubed Sirloin with Chilli Butter
Eating locally reared free-range beef is always the best option,
and a good-quality sirloin steak is great for sharing.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

50g (2oz./1/4 cup) unsalted butter

1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
1 tsp kimchi chilli sauce
350–400g (121/2–14oz.) free-range or organic sirloin steak
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the chilli butter, mix the soft butter with the chilli powder and sauce, then
place on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and mould to a 1 x 1cm (1/2 x
1/2in.) square. Place in the freezer for at least 1 hour.

Start the robata grill. Season the steak with salt and pepper, then grill on each
side for 2 minutes, turning twice until medium-rare. The steak should be soft
to the touch and bounce back. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 5
minutes, then slice into bite-sized pieces and add thin slices of the ice-cold
butter.
◁ Whole Miso-Marinated Baby Chicken
Marinating in miso is truly delicious, giving an umami richness
to the chicken, ensuring moistness and a great caramelization
of the meat. This is a larger meat dish to be shared, but use a
small chicken to ensure it cooks through evenly during the
grilling. For optimal results, marinate the chicken for 24–48
hours, giving the miso marinade plenty of time to penetrate
the protein and tenderize the meat. Use either a high-quality
sweet miso paste (more expensive, but it needs no further
alteration) or a standard yellow miso paste, adding sake, mirin
and sugar to aid the fermenting qualities of the miso. To
butterfly the chicken, have a deba knife and flexible filleting
knife to hand.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

200g (7oz.) sweet miso or 150g (5oz.) yellow miso

2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 small chicken
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the miso, sake, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan over a low heat,
stirring constantly with a whisk until all the ingredients have dissolved to
form a smooth paste. Leave to cool in the saucepan.
Place the chicken on a chopping board and use a deba or cook’s knife to cut
away the neck and the parson’s nose. Now cut along either side of the
backbone of the chicken and remove. Open up the chicken, like a book, and
remove the soft breast bone inside the chicken using a filleting knife: run the
knife along either side of the bone and pull it out with your hands. Turn the
chicken again, with skin side facing upwards, and using your full body
weight, place your hands flat on the chicken and press the bird flat. Pierce the
chicken with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate the protein.

Rub the miso marinade into the chicken, ensuring all areas are covered. Place
in a shallow tray, cover with cling film (plastic wrap), and leave the miso to
work its magic for 24–48 hours in the fridge.

On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Rinse off all the miso paste from
the chicken under cold running water, dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel, rub
in a little olive oil and season with sea salt and black pepper. Place the
chicken above the sizzling hot bincho coals, turning every 2–3 minutes and
spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray on the skin side for a crisp
result. Continue until cooked through but still moist. Check by slicing away a
small piece between the main body and leg, ensuring the meat is cooked to
the bone.

Leave the chicken to rest for 10 minutes on a chopping board, then chop into
12 bite-sized pieces and serve.
◁ Chicken Drumettes with Coriander
(Cilantro) Pesto Dipping Sauce
Use the leftover drumettes from the recipe here; the drumette
is the top part of a three-piece chicken wing, which looks like a
mini chicken drumstick. This recipe is not cooked on the
robata but in the oven.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) kimchi or Sriracha chilli sauce

1 tbsp aonori seaweed
pinch of sea salt
24 chicken drumettes
4 tbsp Coriander (Cilantro) Pesto (see below)
2 tbsp Japanese Mayonnaise
4 spring onions (scallions)

Place the kimchi or chilli sauce, aonori and salt in a bowl, add the chicken
drumettes and marinate for 20–30 minutes in the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4).

Mix the pesto and mayonnaise together to create a dipping sauce. Chop the
spring onions (scallions) into fine rings, rinse in cold water and leave to
drain.

Line a baking tray with baking parchment and place the chicken on the tray.
Cook in the oven for 45 minutes, then remove from the oven, sprinkle with
the spring onions (scallions) and serve with the dipping sauce.
Coriander (Cilantro) Pesto
I do not add Parmesan to this pesto, as I am looking for a clean,
herby flavour. Keep any surplus of the pesto in the fridge for up
to five days; it is delicious on soba noodles, brown rice, in sushi
or even on pasta, with an additional helping of good-quality
Parmesan cheese.

MAKES APPROX. 200ML (3/4 CUP)

50g (2oz./1/3 cup) whole almonds

1 small clove of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp kimchi sauce
31/2 tbsp olive oil
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) grapeseed oil
1 large bunch of coriander (cilantro), stalks removed
1 large bunch of basil, stalks removed

Toast the almonds in a frying pan (skillet), chop roughly and add to a food
processor with the garlic, honey and kimchi. Combine the two oils in a jug.

Whizz the ingredients in the processor for a few minutes, then stop and
ensure all are evenly chopped. Turn the machine back on and gradually add
the oils, followed by the herbs, until you have a smooth, even paste. Place in
a bowl or a small squeezy bottle and keep in the fridge for up to 5 days.
◁ Yuzu Chicken
Dairy products are not a part of traditional Japanese cuisine,
but being Danish I have grown up with a large amount of dairy
in my diet, including as a cooking ingredient, and so I have
reached for the yogurt pot. To ensure the yuzu flavour
penetrates the chicken fully, but to avoid its acidity overcuring
the meat, the yogurt tenderizes the meat as the live bacteria
work their magic on the protein.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

500ml (2 cups) full-fat natural yogurt

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) yuzu juice
2 tbsp runny honey
8 pieces of organic (or free-range) chicken (legs and thighs)
grated zest and juice of 1 organic pink grapefruit, plus extra wedges to
serve
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp soft brown sugar
31/2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine the yogurt with the yuzu and honey in a large mixing bowl, and
season with salt and pepper. Rub the chicken pieces in the yogurt marinade,
place in a container and pour the reminder of the marinade on top. Leave to
marinate in the fridge for 24–36 hours.
Start the robata grill. Put the grapefruit juice into a bowl and combine with
the soy sauce and sugar.

Rinse the yogurt off the chicken and dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel, then
dress the chicken in a little olive oil. When the coals are ready, place a wire
rack over the robata pit, brush with oil and place the chicken on top. Seal the
chicken, controlling the heat by moving the chicken from hotter to colder
areas and vice versa. Use the sake-mirin spray to control the flames and
reduce the heat. When the chicken is cooked through and the skin is nice and
crispy, place on a serving dish. Drizzle with the grapefruit juice mixture,
sprinkle with the chopped zest and sesame seeds, and serve with a few
wedges of grapefruit on the side.
◁Duck Breast with Dashi Sweet Mash
and Robata Baby Carrot
This dish was inspired by a very talented sushi and grill chef I
have worked with over the years, Tsvetan Gerganov. With his
Bulgarian heritage he has fine-tuned his understanding of the
sea, the land and their seasons, mastering both raw and
cooked cuisine, and serving a perfect on-trend combination of
sushi and robata in Western-style Japanese restaurants.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 medium sweet potatoes

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) dashi
10–12 baby carrots
2 medium duck breasts, about 120g (41/4oz.)
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp aonori seaweed
2 tsp white balsamic vinegar

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4). Wash and dry the sweet
potatoes, then bake in the oven in their skins for 3–4 hours, until soft and
starting to caramelize at the edges, oozing trails of sugars. When the potatoes
are ready, they will be hot to handle, so either use a cloth or wear rubber
gloves. Cut the potatoes open and place the cooked flesh in a food processor.
Start running the machine and gradually add the dashi until you have a
smooth paste, then set aside.

Start the robata grill. Remove the tops of the carrots, leaving about 2cm (3/4
in.) of the green part; with a clean scourer, rub the baby carrots clean and
rinse under cold running water.
Score the duck breasts on the skin side, criss-crossing four cuts on each. Mix
the sea salt with the aonori seaweed and rub in well to the scored skin. Place
a wire rack over the coals with a small cast-iron frying pan (skillet). Place the
duck skin side down in the pan and render the fat of the skin for 2 minutes or
until the skin looks crisp. Then place the breast flesh side down on the wire
rack and grill for 3–4 minutes until the flesh starts taking on colour. Turn the
duck breast one more time for the skin side to crisp up on the wire rack for a
further 1–2 minutes.

Meanwhile, grill the baby carrots, rotating regularly and brushing with white
balsamic vinegar to build up a nice sweet glaze. Take the meat off the heat
and leave to rest for 2 minutes. Cut the duck breast into thin slices, and serve
alongside the sweet potato mash, garnished with carrots.
◁ Teriyaki Duck with Asparagus Pickles
Duck is a newcomer to robata menus. It can be a challenge to
achieve a tender bite through grilling only, so I slow-cook the
duck in the oven first.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

4 spring onions (scallions), plus extra for garnish

4 duck legs
31/2 tbsp light olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
5cm (2in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely sliced
300ml (11/4 cups) sake
1 red chilli
100ml (scant 1/2cup) soy sauce
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
4 star anise
2 tbsp potato flour
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

FOR THE ASPARAGUS PICKLES

2 asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into 3cm (11/4in.) pieces on the
diagonal
2 spring onions (scallions), trimmed and cut into 3cm (11/4in.) pieces on the
diagonal
1/2 fresh jalapeño chilli, deseeded and finely sliced
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp honey

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas mark 3). Trim and clean the spring
onions (scallions), then cut each into three pieces. Cut the duck legs into two
pieces, thigh and leg, then cut 2–3 slits into each piece.

Heat the olive oil in a roasting tin. Add the garlic, ginger and spring onions
(scallions), cook for a few minutes, then add the duck, skin side down. Press
the duck into the pan with a spatula while it takes on colour and the skin
crisps up, then turn over to brown the flesh side of the duck.

Pour in the sake and leave to cook for a few minutes for the alcohol to
evaporate. Cut the chilli straight down the middle and add to the tin, then add
the soy, mirin and star anise to the mix and leave to infuse over the heat for a
few minutes. Cover with foil and slow cook in the oven for 1 hour and 20
minutes.

For the pickles, combine the soy, liquid kombu dashi and honey in a bowl.
Add the asparagus, spring onions and jalapeño, ensuring all are well dressed
in the pickling liquid. Place the pickles in a zip-lock bag, roll the bag into a
cylinder and press out the air, then leave to pickle in the fridge for 1 hour.

Start the robata grill. Remove the duck pieces and set aside, then strain the
poaching liquid into a saucepan through a sieve. With a small sieve, skim the
surface of the liquid, then reheat and thicken with potato flour diluted in a
little cold water, until you have a smooth, silky sauce. Pour into a bowl ready
for basting the duck while grilling.

When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the top, brush both rack and
duck with oil and start grilling. Turn and move them regularly to ensure they
cook through, and spray intermittently with the sake-mirin spray to control
the flames and keep the meat moist.

When the duck is ready, place in a mixing bowl, pour over the sauce and toss
well. Place on a serving dish, sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped spring
onions. Serve with the pickles and Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette.
◁ Baby Back Pork Ribs
I recommend buying good-quality free-range reared pork for
this dish from a good butcher. This recipe is all about
tenderizing the meat in advance so it literally falls off the bone.
SERVES 4–6 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 cloves of garlic, sliced

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce
2 dried chillies
200ml (3/4 cup) dashi
10 whole peppercorns
8 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 racks of baby back pork ribs
4 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tbsp potato flour
1/2 bunch of spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas mark 7). First prepare the poaching
liquid for the ribs. Place the garlic in a mixing bowl with half the soy sauce,
the dried chillies, dashi, peppercorns and shiitake mushrooms. Pour in about
1 litre (4 cups) of boiling water. Gently bring to the boil and leave to simmer.

Place the ribs on a chopping board with the curved size facing up. There is a
fine white membrane running along the bones on top of the flesh connecting
them together. Pull this off and place the ribs in a shallow tray, curved side
facing down. Place in the oven for 10 minutes to seal the ribs. Remove from
the oven and reduce the heat to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4). Pour over the
poaching liquid, boil the kettle, and top up the tray until the ribs are fully
covered. Cover with a piece of foil and cook in the oven for 1 hour 40
minutes.

When the ribs are ready, remove from the poaching liquid and place on a
tray, then re-cover with foil. Place a sieve over a saucepan and drain the
liquid into the pan, discarding the contents of the sieve. Cook the liquid over
a medium heat until it has reduced to one-third, then add the sugar and
remaining soy and, when this is incorporated, add a little potato flour mixed
with water and stir until the liquid thickens to a silky smooth sauce. You may
not need all the potato flour mixture.

Start the robata grill. Remove the racks of ribs from the marinade and cut
them in half. Place a wire rack over the coals, brush the wire rack and the ribs
with a little oil and grill over a medium–high heat. Rotate the meat until it is
sealed all over, then baste with the teriyaki sauce.

Carry on basting, repeating to build up a nice glaze. Control the heat by

moving between high to medium; control the flames with the spray. When
the ribs are ready, move to the coolest part of the robata and leave to rest for
10 minutes. Cut the ribs and arrange on a large oval serving dish, sprinkled
with spring onions (scallions) and sesame seeds. Serve with Japanese Slaw
with Garlic Mayo and Hibiki.
Lamb Ribs with Shiso ▷
A carnivore’s feast, these will stimulate your inner cave(wo)man
as you embark on a serious session of messy eating. The rib
cage of a lamb is smaller than that of a pig, and so the rack
comes curved with differing sizes of rib. To ensure even
cooking across all shapes and sizes, these are sealed, poached
and marinated before being grilled on the robata.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2–3 lamb ribs

2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
2 tbsp potato flour
10 shiso leaves, chopped
handful of mint leaves, chopped
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE POACHING LIQUID

10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) piece of konbu
6 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
2 tbsp soy sauce
1.5 litres (6 cups) boiling water

FOR THE MARINADE

1 small onion, peeled and grated
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 cans of ginger ale/beer
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp honey

Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F/Gas mark 9). Place the lamb ribs in a
roasting tray and season with salt and pepper. Cover the ribs with foil and
cook in the oven for 10 minutes to seal the meat.

Meanwhile, make the marinade. Add the onion, garlic and ginger to a mixing
bowl with the ginger ale, soy sauce, olive oil and honey. Mix well. Add all
the ingredients for the poaching liquid to a separate mixing bowl, holding
back 500ml (2 cups) of the boiling water.

When the ribs are sealed, remove from the oven and pour over the poaching
liquid until fully submerged. You may have to top up with some of the extra
water. Cover with foil, reduce the heat to 160°C (325°F/Gas mark 3) and
cook for 40 minutes.

When the ribs have finished poaching, remove from the oven, retaining the
poaching liquid, and place them in a plastic container. Pour over the
marinade and leave in the fridge for 2 hours (longer is fine).

Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a saucepan and cook over a
medium heat until reduced by two-thirds. When the sauce is reduced, add the
mirin, soy sauce and sugar and heat through.

About 30 minutes before the ribs have finished marinating, start the robata
grill. When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the robata grill, brush
the rack with oil, remove the ribs from the marinade and start grilling. When
they have taken on colour, turn the ribs; the coals will flare up as the fat
drips, so control the flames with the sake-mirin spray. After turning a couple
of times, start basting with the sauce, repeating to build up a nice glaze. The
ribs will cook very quickly, so keep rotating. When the ribs have finished
cooking, move to the colder area of the robata grill to rest for a few minutes,
then place on a serving dish, drizzle over any remaining sauce and sprinkle
with a handful of freshly chopped shiso and mint leaves.
◁ Charred Leeks with Spicy Dip
There is a Spanish spring onion called calcot, which is eaten in
Catalonia to celebrate the arrival of spring. Similar to a small
leek, they are grilled until charred and then wrapped in
newspaper to give a steam finish. Inspired by this great
celebration of the arrival of spring, here are robata baby leeks
with a romesco-inspired dipping sauce, substituting a few of
the traditional Spanish ingredients with their Japanese
counterparts.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

8 medium-sized leeks
olive oil

FOR THE SAUCE

1 medium red pepper, halved and deseeded
1 large tomato
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) whole almonds
40g (11/2oz./3/4 cup) panko breadcrumbs
small handful of coriander (cilantro)
1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp mirin
1 tsp rice vinegar
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
salt, to taste
Start the robata grill and place a wire rack over the bincho coals. Grill the
peppers and tomato on the rack until charred. When slightly burned on the
edges (this gives a great smoky flavour), place in a zip-lock bag in the freezer
to cool down. This will make them easier to peel.

Clean the leeks: if they still have the root, wash these thoroughly until free of
any dirt. Any outer leaves looking tatty or torn should be removed. Cut a
small insertion about 4cm (11/2in.) from the top of the leeks and gently rinse
the insides to remove any soil or sand. Once thoroughly clean, steam the baby
leeks in a steamer for 8–10 minutes, until just al dente.

For the sauce, add the garlic to a food processor with the almonds and pulse
until you reach a smooth paste. Remove the tomato and red peppers from the
freezer, remove the skins, the white membrane from the peppers, and deseed
the tomato. Chop roughly and add to the machine, then pulse until
incorporated. Add the panko breadcrumbs, pulse again, then add the
remaining ingredients and process until you have a dipping sauce.

When the leeks are ready, plunge straight into ice-cold water to retain the
colour. Leave for a few minutes, then transfer to a colander to drip dry.

Dress the leeks in a little olive oil, then grill until very well done (charred).
Place on a serving dish and spoon over the great romesco sauce before
serving.
◁ Butterflied Red Miso Lamb
This is the pièce de résistance when throwing a dinner party for
a larger group of people, and works well as a centrepiece
served alongside smaller robata dishes. I recommend serving
this dish towards the end of a robata setting to ensure your
guests enjoy this at a good pace. The curing of the lamb in sake
and miso tenderizes the meat perfectly, and brings out the
umami notes of the lamb. It’s not a traditional combination in
Japan, but it tones down the fattiness of the lamb and
enhances the texture of the meat.
SERVES 8–12

300g (101/2oz.) red miso

31/2 tbsp sake
31/2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 medium-sized leg of lamb, 700–800g (1lb. 9oz.–1lb. 12oz.) deboned (see
recipe)
2 cloves of garlic
1 rosemary sprig, leaves roughly chopped
olive oil

Place the miso in a small saucepan with the sake, mirin and sugar. Cook over
a low heat until the sugar is melted and the mirin and sake are incorporated.
Set aside and leave to cool.

Place the leg of lamb on a chopping board. Debone the lamb by cutting into
the bone with a filleting knife where the bone is almost exposed underneath
the flesh. With small precise slicing movements, remove the bone, ensuring
the maximum amount of flesh is left behind.

Add the garlic and rosemary to the miso mixture. Place the lamb in a shallow
tray, then pour the miso mixture over the lamb and rub the mixture into the
flesh. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate for 24–48
hours.

On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Rinse off the miso marinade,
ensuring all is removed, and dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel. Rub in a
little olive oil and place in a clean shallow tray. Place a wire rack over the
robata pit and grill the lamb meat, turning regularly until cooked to medium-
rare. Press your fingertip into the meat – it should bounce back well – or cut a
small insertion into the meat. When done, and the surface of the meat is
nicely caramelized, leave to rest on a chopping board for 20 minutes to relax
the meat. Slice finely and serve as the centrepiece of your robata meal,
alongside New Potatoes with Uni Butter and the Paper-Thin Seasonal Salad.
◁ Beef Tataki
Eat these like little wraps with additional crunchy veggies and
sauces. I use baby gem leaves, but any similar salad or herb
leaves, like shiso, young spinach or young kale, would make a
great substitute.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

10cm (4in.) piece of cucumber, plus 1/2 cucumber, for pickling

10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
400g (14oz.) rib eye steak
8 shiso leaves or baby gem leaves
2 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
sushi vinegar
olive oil
furikake, for sprinkling

Start the robata grill.

Using a Japanese mandoline with a medium blade, grate the cucumber into
julienne-style strips from the green skin and firm flesh, discarding the seeds.
Set the strips of cucumber aside. Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the
same setting, right into the core. Place the mooli (daikon) in iced water and
leave to crisp up. Change the grating blade on the mandoline to a fine setting,
place over a bowl and slice the cucumber half. Pour over enough sushi
vinegar to just cover the finely sliced cucumber and set aside.

Trim the beef into 8–10cm (3–4in.) blocks. Rub the beef in a little oil, place a
wire rack over the robata pit and grill the beef for just a few minutes on each
side. Set the meat aside for 10 minutes to rest.
Cut the beef on a 45-degree angle into slices about 5mm x 3cm (1/5 x 11/4in.).
Place on a serving plate in the middle of the table with the accompanying
garnishes and shiso or baby gem leaves in small bowls surrounding it. To eat,
place a piece of beef inside a leaf, garnish with cucumber, mooli (daikon),
spring onions (scallions), a few slices of pickled cucumber, and sprinkle with
furikake. Serve with Portobello Mushrooms stuffed with Shimeji and
Shiitake.
◁ Porterhouse Steak with Uni Butter
The Porterhouse is a bigger version of the T-bone steak and is
carved from a larger portion of the tenderloin and typically
shared between two people. Like the T-bone steak, one side is
a tenderloin fillet and the other side steak (strip steak in
American steakhouses). It is an expensive piece of meat, but
ideal for sharing in a robata setting. Here it’s served with uni
butter, enhancing an already umami-packed piece of meat.
Eating beef is a treat in my eyes, and choosing a free-range cut
is an important ethical stance, so buy your beef from a butcher
with a passion for the trade. Sushi-grade sea urchin is available
from Japanese wholesalers.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) unsalted butter

50g (2oz.) sea urchin (uni)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp yuzu juice
pinch of shichimi chilli
10 chive sprigs, finely chopped
4 thyme sprigs, leaves finely chopped
1 Porterhouse steak, about 600–700g (1lb. 5oz.–1lb. 9oz.)
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start the robata grill.

First, make the uni butter. Add the butter, sea urchin, soy sauce, mustard,
yuzu juice and chilli to a food processor, and run until all the ingredients are
incorporated. Add the herbs to the processor and pulse until they are evenly
distributed. Place the mixture on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and
shape into a cylindrical log. Twist both ends tight until you have a smooth,
even log. Place in the freezer to chill.

Prepare the Porterhouse steak by rubbing in a little oil, then season with salt
and pepper. When the bincho coals are a smouldering grey, place a wire rack
over the coals and lightly brush with oil, then place the steak on the rack,
controlling any flares from the flames with the sake-mirin spray. Seal the
steak on each side, then grill for 4–5 minutes on each side until medium-rare
and soft to the touch with a little bounce back. Remove from the grill and
leave to rest for 10 minutes, then cut off the bone and into strips.

Remove the uni butter from the freezer and serve alongside the pieces of
steak, with Red Onion Pickles, Asparagus with Sea Salt and Kappa Pickles.
◁ Robata Garden in Quinoa Soil
This dish works with an endless combination of vegetables, so
use what is in season. Some vegetables will need par-boiling,
just to ensure that all are evenly cooked and on time when
coming off the robata grill.

SERVES 4

12 baby carrots
8 spring onions
8 baby parsnips
4 baby fennel
200ml (3/4 cup) vegetable oil
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) quinoa
1 pack soft silken tofu (drained weight about 160g/51/2oz.)
2 tbsp sesame paste or tahini
1 tsp yuzu juice or a squeeze of lemon juice
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start the robata grill. Place a pot containing 3 litres (12 cups) water on the
hob (stove top) over a high heat. Rinse all the vegetables in cold water,
ensuring to rub any dirt off carefully. When the water is boiling, salt the
water, reduce the heat to medium and cook the vegetables until al dente, less
than 5 minutes. Drain the vegetables and plunge straight into ice-cold water
to cool for 10 minutes. Drain the vegetables in a colander, then dab dry with
kitchen (paper) towel, lay them out on a tray, brush with olive oil and season
with salt and pepper, ready for grilling.

Heat the vegetable oil in a small heavy-based saucepan. Fry the quinoa for 2–
3 minutes. Place a metal sieve over a metal bowl and drain the quinoa. Line
another shallow tray with kitchen (paper) towel and spread the quinoa out to
dry. Do keep the oil for future use, as it has hardly taken on any flavour from
the quinoa.

Break the tofu into 5–6 chunks and place in a food processor with the sesame
paste, yuzu, and salt and pepper. Process until you have a smooth paste with
the same consistency as full-fat Greek yogurt. Spoon the mixture on to a
serving plate and sprinkle with the toasted quinoa.

Place a small wire rack over the smouldering hot coals. Place all the
vegetables on top and rotate every 2 minutes until nicely browned,
occasionally brushing with additional olive oil to keep them moist. When the
vegetables are cooked through and gently charred in places, remove from the
robata and stick into the tofu dip ready for sharing.
◁ Robata Tofu Agadashi
Tofu agadashi is a classic Japanese appetizer of silken tofu,
deep-fried and served in a smooth dashi broth with bonito
shavings on top. Here it is reinvented with firm organic tofu. For
a truly exclusive version I highly recommend using fresh
wasabi, which can be ordered online. The plants are also
available and easy to grow in a pot, however you will be in for
the long haul as it takes at least two years for the plant to
mature.
SERVES 4

1/2 pack firm organic tofu (drained weight about 150g/5oz.)

2 tsp freshly grated wasabi, or good-quality wasabi powder
200ml (3/4 cup) dashi
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp light soy sauce
handful of shaved bonito flakes
1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
grapeseed oil
You will need: 8 wooden skewers soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Start the robata grill.

Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel to draw out the liquid (if not
using the other half of the block straight away, this will last up to a week in
the fridge kept in refreshed water).

If not using fresh wasabi, add 2 tablespoons of wasabi powder to a bowl, add
a little cold water and mix to a smooth, even paste. Set aside.
Cut the tofu into four equal-sized squares. Skewer with two skewers each.
Brush each with oil and grill on a wire rack over bincho coals for a few
minutes on each side until taking on colour.

Meanwhile, heat the dashi in a small saucepan next to the tofu on the robata,
adding mirin and soy sauce.

When the tofu is a nice golden colour with a few grill marks, add to
individual bowls, decorate with the bonito flakes, a dot of ginger, a small dot
of wasabi, and pour the dashi stock into each bowl. The dish is ready to
serve.
◁ Black Miso Tofu
The magic of miso, being very high in protein, is that it also
works well with fish, and even tofu. Allow the tofu to marinate
for 24–48 hours for best results.
SERVES 4

11/2 packs firm organic tofu (drained weight about 400–500g/14oz.– 1lb.
11/2oz.)
200g (7oz.) yellow miso
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
grapeseed oil

Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and leave
to allow the liquid to drain out.

Add the miso, mirin, sake and sugar to a saucepan and heat gently over a
medium heat, stirring constantly to make sure the miso does not burn. When
everything is dissolved and combined, set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Cut each block of tofu into four pieces. Smother each piece in miso paste,
ensuring the tofu is fully covered. Place in a shallow tray, cover and leave in
the fridge for 24–48 hours to cure.

On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Gently scrape the miso paste off
the tofu and rinse off any remaining marinade under cold running water. It is
important that all miso paste is removed, otherwise the tofu would end up
steaming instead of grilling.

Dab the tofu dry with kitchen (paper) towel. Brush each piece with oil and
grill on the robata until cooked through with a nice caramelization. Serve
with Asparagus Pickles and Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette.
 classic yakitori
Yakitori literally means ‘grilled bird’ and originated as more of
an urban phenomenon in Japan, before spreading like wildfire
around the globe. It is a great way of eating, accessible to all,
and the perfect street food.
Almost any part of a chicken can be diced and skewered,
then grilled over binchotan (or cheaper hardwood coal) on a
narrow yakitori grill, seasoned with either sea salt or a generous
helping of tare sauce. It is a pretty simple kind of eating, but
with additional care and attention I do not think anything can
beat the home-cooked version. It is also a good starting point
to perfect cooking on the robata grill, as the technique is
relatively easy to master.
At the traditional yakitori joint you may also find vegetarian
options, such as shiitake, baby turnips and asparagus, and
surprisingly grilled pork, which is outside the remit of ‘grilled
bird’ but is delicious all the same.
What unites all these dishes is that they are served on
wooden skewers, from specialist yakitori skewers to simple
round skewers. Do soak the skewers to avoid them burning
over the coals. In terms of length, it is all down to how heavy
their burden will be.
Chicken Tskune
These are delicious lollipop-style chicken skewers. The dish is
not brined, and I use garlic powder instead of fresh, to keep the
mixture as dry as possible.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

250g (9oz.) minced (ground) chicken

2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions (scallions)
1 tsp soy sauce
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1 tbsp potato flour
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

In a large bowl, mix together the minced (ground) chicken, spring onions
(scallions), soy sauce, garlic powder and potato flour, and place in the fridge
for 30 minutes to firm up a little.

Divide the chicken mixture into eight portions and mould into 1cm (1/2 in.)
thick oval-shaped discs, and skewer each with two parallel skewers.

Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack over the over the glowing bincho
coals, place the chicken skewers on top, and after a few minutes, when the
tskune have started taking on colour, spray with the sake-mirin spray. Turn
the skewers, then repeat the process at 2-minute intervals until the chicken is
just cooked.

Now start brushing the tskune with tare sauce, turning the skewers 4–5 times
until cooked through. Serve immediately.
Negima Yakitori
A very popular yakitori dish, with spring onion/scallion (negima)
and chicken.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar

50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
300g (101/2oz.) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 bunch spring onions (scallions)
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

First, make a brine. Place the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl, then pour over
the boiling water and mix well. Top up the brine with the ice-cold water.
Trim any sinew or loose bits from the chicken. Cut the chicken into 1.5 x
1.5cm (1/2 x 1/2 in.) cubes, add to the brine and leave to cure in the fridge for
2 hours.

Start the robata grill. Trim and discard the dark green ends of the spring
onions (scallions), then rinse in cold water and cut into 2cm (3/4in.) pieces.
Divide the chicken into eight portions. Thread the pieces on to the skewers,
alternating chicken and spring onions (scallions), starting and finishing with a
chicken piece.

Place the skewers directly over the bincho coals, resting them on either edge
of the robata pit. After 2 minutes’ grilling, rotate the skewers to cook the
other side, then rotate again after a further 2 minutes, spraying intermittently
with the sake-mirin spray. Brush the chicken with tare sauce. Repeat, adding
more tare sauce and turning the chicken until slightly charred and crispy, but
still juicy.
Chicken Wings with ‘Addictive
Cabbage’
Crispy chicken wings are another staple on the yakitori menu,
and here are served with the classic cabbage dish which most
often accompanies the yakitori meal. Known as ‘addictive’
cabbage – it surely is in all its simplicity!
SERVES 4 | MAKE 8

24 x 3-joint chicken wings

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
1/2 white cabbage
1 tbsp sea salt
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp chia seeds
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

First prepare the wings. Using a cook’s knife or deba knife, divide each wing
into wing tip, middle wing piece and upper wing piece, also called the
drumette. Use the wing tips for the tare sauce or discard, and set aside the
drumettes for the Chicken Drumettes recipe.
For the brine, put the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl with the boiling water
and whisk well until dissolved. Top up the bowl with the ice-cold water.
Leave the chicken wings in the brine for 4–6 hours.

Prepare the ‘addictive cabbage’: cut the white cabbage into quarters and
remove the stalk. Cut each quarter into 3 wedges and then cut each wedge
into diamond-shaped pieces. Place the cabbage in a mixing bowl, add the sea
salt, give it a good mix and set aside for 20 minutes.

Start the robata grill. Rinse the cabbage, place in a serving bowl and dress in
sesame oil, olive oil and chia seeds.

Prepare the skewers, allowing three wings per portion, threaded on to two
parallel skewers. Place the chicken wings over the glowing bincho coals,
resting the skewers on either edge of the robata pit. After 2 minutes, spray
with the sake-mirin spray, then turn the skewers and repeat the process at 2-
minute intervals until the chicken is just cooked. Now start brushing the
wings with the tare sauce, turning the chicken wings four times until tender,
crisp and sticky. Serve immediately.
◁ Chicken Skin Yakitori
This is a labour of love and takes some patience, but the results
are fabulous. Ask your butcher to put the chicken skins aside
for you. There are various methods of rendering the fat of the
skins; in this recipe it is done with a gentle boil, but the skins
could also be skewered and precooked in a medium–hot oven
or in a pressure cooker. I prefer the gentle boil as I can control
what is happening, and at the same time be reassured that all
the fat is removed from the skins. Crispy skin is traditionally
served with a sprinkle of sea salt.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

32 chicken skins from chicken breasts (fillets)

Maldon sea salt
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Place the chicken skins in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the
boil. Leave the skins to simmer for 30 minutes, regularly removing the foam
and fat as it rises to the surface. Drain the skins, and when they have cooled a
little, spread them out on a flat surface to ensure they do not stick together or
break.

Trim each skin into a square-ish shape; they should all be approximately the
same size. Fold each skin into three, like folding a letter. Then skewer four
skins on each skewer, folding each folded strip in three again. Pack them
tightly, but with room for heat to circulate around the skins.

When the chicken skins are ready, start the robata grill. Place the skins over
the robata pit and grill over the heat, rotating regularly and spraying with the
sake-mirin spray to control any flares from the flames. Sprinkle with the sea
salt and serve.
Chicken Hearts
Unfortunately, these are not readily available, but give your
local butcher a few days’ warning and I am convinced they will
put them aside for you at a very favourable price. Frozen hearts
work well too, as long as they are from a bird with good animal
husbandry, as this will show in the flavour. In the true spirit of
original yakitori, I marinate these in the classic blend of soy,
mirin and sake. They are very good to serve early in the meal.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

about 40 chicken hearts (300–350g/ 101/2–121/2oz.)

3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp mirin
3 tbsp sake
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp matcha powder
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

If the chicken hearts are frozen, defrost in a colander over a bowl and cover
with a plate for 30 minutes. Rinse the chicken hearts before marinating; it is
important that any blood residue is removed. Leave any fat partially encasing
the hearts as this only improves the flavour.

Put the soy sauce, mirin and sake in a bowl, add the chicken hearts and leave
to marinate for 30 minutes in the fridge. In a separate bowl, combine the sea
salt and matcha for a matcha salt.
Start the robata grill. Thread 5–6 hearts on to each skewer and grill over the
robata pit, turning regularly and controlling the flames with the sake-mirin
spray. These really only need a few minutes to cook through, then place on a
serving plate, sprinkle with matcha salt and serve.
Teriyaki Chicken Breasts (Fillets)
Chicken breast (fillets) should be moist to be enjoyed the most.
This is best achieved by giving the chicken a gentle bashing,
followed by a good soak in classic Japanese ingredients.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

4 tbsp soy sauce

2 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
1 small knob of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp sake
2 large free-range or organic chicken breasts (fillets), skin on
1 tbsp potato flour
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Pour the soy sauce into a small saucepan, heat over a gentle heat until just
before boiling point, then remove from the heat and add the shiitake
mushrooms.

Put the garlic and ginger in a small square plastic container and add the
shiitake mushrooms with the soy sauce, mirin and sake.

Place 1 chicken breast (fillet) in a zip-lock bag, skin side down, and bash
with a meat cleaver. Do not be too forceful; the main purpose is to tenderize
the fibres in the breast (fillet) and have an even thickness without tearing the
meat or breaking the skin. Repeat with the second chicken breast (fillet), then
add both to the marinade and leave to steep in the fridge for 2 hours.
Start the robata grill. When the chicken has finished marinating, drain in a
colander over a small saucepan, discard the shiitake, ginger and garlic, but
retain the liquid. Cut each chicken breast into four equal-sized strips and
skewer, then leave in the fridge while preparing the teriyaki sauce.

Gently heat the marinade until just before boiling point. Mix the potato flour
with a little cold water and gradually add to the marinade until you have a
silky-smooth teriyaki sauce. You may not need all the potato flour mixture.

Now place the chicken skewers over the robata pit, turning as they take on
colour and basting the skin in teriyaki sauce. Use the sake-mirin spray to
control the flames. Repeat a few times until the chicken is just cooked and the
skin is sticky and crispy.
◁ Pork Tskune with Golden Beetroot
(Beet) Pickles
Not traditionally Japanese, however Frikadellen (meatballs) is
the national dish of the Nordic countries and works deliciously
well coated in tare sauce. The pickles are best made a week in
advance to give them time to infuse, and can last up to three
months stored in a sterilized jar in a cool place.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12

1 small onion, peeled and finely grated

1 small clove of garlic, peeled and finely grated
2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions (scallions)
400g (14oz.) minced (ground) pork (20% fat content)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp potato flour
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce

FOR THE PICKLES

500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) golden beetroots (beets)
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
1 star anise
1 tsp dill seeds
500ml (2 cups) sushi vinegar
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
You will need: 24 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water; sterilized
jar (shown here) for the pickles

For the pickles, remove the tops of the beetroots (beets), leaving a few
centimetres of the stalks in place, then wash the beetroots (beets) in cold
water to rub off all dirt. Cook in plenty of salted water until all dente, drain,
then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down.

Make the pickling liquid: toast the coriander seeds, Sichuan peppercorns, star
anise and dill seeds in a pan for a few minutes to release their aromas. Pour
over the sushi vinegar and add the bay leaves and sugar. Leave to simmer for
10 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to cool down.

Peel the beetroots (beets), cut in half, then quarters, and then into a further 3–
4 wedges subject to their size. Place them in the sterilized jar, packing them
tight, then pour over the pickling liquid. Poor the liquid right to the top, close
the jar tight and turn upside down to create a vacuum. Leave for a good hour
before storing away.

To prepare the pork tsukune, place the onion and garlic in a mixing bowl.
Add the spring onions (scallions), minced (ground) pork, soy sauce, mirin
and potato flour. Mix until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated, then
leave in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up a little.

Start the robata grill. Divide the mixture into 12 equal-sized balls, then shape
each one into an oval and skewer with two skewers.

When the coals are ready, place a wire rack on top, brush with oil, then place
the pork skewers on top. Leave to grill for a few minutes, until they start to
take on colour, then turn. Before turning a third time, dip in the tare sauce
and return to the robata grill, repeating 3–4 times until the pork is cooked
through and the outside is caramelized. Serve with the golden beetroot (beet)
pickles and Asparagus with Sea Salt.
◁ Pork Belly Yuzu Miso
Pork belly is a great inexpensive robata option, with its
flavoursome strips of fat. I recommend using belly from free-
range rare breeds. To break the grease and enhance the
flavours, this is served with a simple yuzu miso topping to add
umami and acidity simultaneously.

SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

100g (31/2oz./1/2cup) caster (superfine) sugar

50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
600g (1lb. 5oz.) strips of pork belly
Sake-Mirin Spray

FOR THE YUZU MISO DRESSING

1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz.) yellow miso
11/2 tbsp yuzu juice

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

First, make a brine. Place the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl, then pour over
the boiling water and mix well. Top up the brine with the ice-cold water.

Trim the pork belly, removing the rind and leaving as much of the fat
attached to the meat as possible. Cut into 1 .5 x 1.5cm (1/2 x 1/2 in.) wide
pieces, add to the brine and leave to soak for 2 hours in the fridge.
For the dressing, place the mirin, sugar and miso in a small saucepan over a
gentle heat and stir until the sugar is melted and the mirin incorporated.
Remove from the heat, stir in the yuzu juice, and set aside to cool down.

Start the robata grill. Drain the pork belly through a colander, discarding the
liquid. Divide the pork between the eight skewers. Grill over the bincho
coals, spraying with sake-mirin spray and rotating every 2 minutes. Repeat
until the pork is cooked through and crisp on the edges, about 8–10 minutes.
Remove from the robata and, while still piping hot, add dollops of the yuzu
miso to the crispy pork, then place in a serving dish and serve with Red
Onion Pickles.
◁ Bacon-Wrapped Robata Lollies
This recipe works with lots of different fillings: the main
principles are that your chosen filling adds flavour and is round!
I use quail eggs, cherry tomatoes and scallops.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12

6 quail eggs
6 rashers of good-quality smoked streaky (lean) bacon
4 hand-dived scallops
4 cherry or baby plum tomatoes, rinsed
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 12 skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Cook the quail eggs for 3 minutes in boiling water, then plunge straight into
cold water and leave to cool. Place the bacon slices on a large chopping board
and place a sheet of baking parchment on top. With a rolling pin, roll the
bacon so that it stretches out by about one-third. Cut the slices in half to
create 12 pieces in total.

Clean the scallops: remove them from the shell, carefully remove the coil and
the digestive sac, and wash under minimal running water; you want to ensure
you remove any dirt and sand, but not wash away the great sweetness of the
scallop.

Gently roll the cooled quail eggs across a flat surface to break the shell, and
peel carefully, ensuring they stay intact. You have two spare just in case one
breaks.

Start the robata grill. Roll all the prepared ingredients in the thin slices of
bacon and spear with a skewer. Place a rack over the bincho coals and cook
the bacon lollies, spraying them with the sake-mirin spray before rotating.
Repeat until crisping up on the edges and the ingredients in the centre are just
cooked.
 other skewers
This chapter includes beef, fish and vegetarian dishes, often
referred to collectively as skewers or sticks. This is a great
category in which to move away from the traditional and
include some great new combinations; the guiding principles
are flavour and the use of seasonal produce.
For smaller, rounder ingredients, skewering makes it easier
to grill over the robata, and is mostly done over a small pit
instead of on the wire rack, to ensure the ingredients don’t
stick. Choosing the right length of skewer is important here, so
the skewers sit comfortably over the pit. Flavours can be added
through marinades, with the addition of a tare sauce or an
additional garnish or sauce.
The following recipes are intended to inspire you to think
about and create your own skewers, and most of the garnishes
and sauces can be used in various combinations. For more
delicate dishes, such as smaller, thinner vegetables like
asparagus or okra, it makes a far neater dish if these are lined
up on two skewers; it is also easier to control the grilling in this
way. Always soak wooden skewers in water before using to
prevent them burning.
Baby Turnips with Miso Salt
Baby turnips – mini moolis (daikon) – are simply delicious.
These can be pickled or steamed, but work surprisingly well on
a skewer over the robata.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

12 baby turnips
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

FOR THE MISO SALT

100g (31/2oz.) yellow miso
30g (1oz.) fine sea salt

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

For the miso salt, preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Place a
silicone sheet on a baking tray, and spread the miso paste across the sheet in a
thin layer. Transfer to the oven for 3 hours, then leave to dry overnight in a
hot corner of your kitchen covered with a tea (dish) towel.

The following day the miso paste should be like a dry pulp; if still moist,
return to the oven at the same temperature as the day before for a few hours.
In the summer I often dry these for an additional hour outside, too. When
completely dry, pulverize in a food processor. Mix with the salt and store in a
jar for up to 3 months, using liberally as an alternative to salt.

Start the robata grill.

Clean the baby turnips and cut in half. Steam for 2 minutes in a steamer, then
plunge straight into ice-cold water to cool down. Skewer three turnip halves
on to each skewer and brush with olive oil.
Place a wire rack over the robata pit and grill the turnips for a few minutes on
each side, spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray. Place on a
serving dish and sprinkle with miso salt.
Asparagus Wrapped in Beef Tskune
Tskune-wrapped asparagus works well with a good-quality
ground (minced) beef and the addition of sesame paste for a
little more flavour.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

1 small onion
1 large clove of garlic
400g (14oz.) minced (ground) beef (fat content 5%)
1 tbsp sesame paste or tahini
2 tbsp soy sauce
8 medium-thick, long asparagus spears
4 tbsp Tare Sauce
freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE PICKLED BABY TURNIPS

16–20 baby turnips
1 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp fish sauce, Thai or Japanese

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

For the pickles, cut the baby turnips in half, steam for 2–3 minutes in a
steamer until al dente, then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down. Drain
well, transfer the turnips to a zip-lock bag and pour in the kombu dashi and
fish sauce. Gently massage the dashi mixture into the turnips, fold over the
bag to remove as much air as possible, then leave to pickle in the fridge for
about 1 hour.

Peel the onion, then grate half on the coarse side of a grater and the other half
on the fine side. Peel the garlic and grate on the fine side of a grater. Place the
minced (ground) beef in a food processor, add the onion and garlic, sesame
paste, soy sauce and a little pepper. Whizz until combined, but do not
overwork the mixture.

Align the tips of the asparagus and trim the ends so they are all the same
length. Cut each into three equal pieces. Divide the beef mixture into 24
balls, then press each into a flat disc. Place a piece of asparagus in the middle
of the patty and wrap the mixture around it. Repeat until you have 24 log-
shaped patties, then thread three on to each skewer. Cover and place in the
fridge for a few hours to firm up.

Start the robata grill. Brush each beef-wrapped asparagus skewer with a little
oil, then grill over the robata pit, rotating every 2 minutes and brushing with
tare sauce before rotating. Repeat until the skewers are cooked through, with
a nice covering of the tare sauce. Serve with the pickled baby turnips.
Rib Eye with Wasabi
Wasabi is another cornerstone of Japanese cuisine, mostly
found in powder form and often made from horseradish,
mustard seeds and added wasabi flavouring. This is a great
product, but nothing beats real wasabi root, freshly grated. This
is now grown successfully outside Japan and available online.

SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)

1 small knob of fresh ginger
fresh wasabi root or 1 tsp good-quality wasabi powder
2 x 240g (81/2oz.) rib eye steaks
good-quality olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Start the robata grill.

Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest side of a grater. Squeeze out
any excess liquid, then repeat this process with the ginger. Grate the fresh
wasabi, if using, by rotating it on a specialist wasabi grater. If using wasabi
powder, add a teaspoon of water to the powder and mix until it is a smooth
paste, then divide into four loose dots. The wasabi loses its kick very quickly,
so this could be done just as the beef comes off the robata for maximum
impact.

Trim the fat line of the rib eye steaks and cut into cubes of 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4
in.), about 32–36 equal-sized pieces of meat. Divide the beef between the
skewers. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper.
Place the skewers across the robata pit, resting them on the two sides. Rotate
the beef and intermittently spray with sake-mirin spray until this caramelizes
on the edges. Place the skewers on a plate and garnish with the mooli
(daikon), ginger and wasabi.
Rump Steak with Mooli (Daikon) and
Kombu Dashi
This is another very simple robata dish, with the added umami
of kombu dashi jelly and grated mooli (daikon) as a garnish. I
cook my meat medium-rare, but check with your dinner
companion(s) as to how they like theirs. It is difficult to specify
an exact grilling time for the meat as there are so many
variables to consider, such as the temperature of the grill, the
fat content of the meat, the quality of the meat, and the
temperature of the meat as it goes on to the grill to name a
few. The touch method works well here: when rare, the steak
will feel soft and spongy; when medium-rare it is soft to the
touch with some resistance; medium will have some give; and
well done is firm to the touch – all broadly speaking.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of kombu seaweed
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 piece of agar agar, about 7g (1/4oz.)
2 rump steaks, on the bone (approx. 400–500g/14oz.–1lb. 11/2oz.)
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

First, make the kombu dashi jelly. Add the soy sauce, sugar, liquid kombu
dashi, kombu seaweed, shiitake mushrooms and 100ml (scant 1/2 cup) water
to a small saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes to infuse.
Drain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pan, discarding the kombu
seaweed and shiitake mushrooms, but leave the sieve sitting over the liquid.

In a separate pan, melt the agar agar in 11/2 tablespoons of water over a gentle
heat. Avoid stirring the agar, but tilt the pan gently from side to side to ensure
it is all melted. Once melted, add a few tablespoons of the warm kombu
liquid, stir gently, pour into the sieve sitting over the remainder of the liquid,
then stir again. Pour into a small square container and leave to set for 1 hour
in the fridge.

Start the robata grill. Season the steak with a little olive oil, salt and pepper,
and set aside. Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest side of a grater.
Squeeze the mooli (daikon) with your hands to remove any excess liquid, and
place in a small serving bowl.

Cut the rump steaks into 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) cubes, about 40 cubes in total.
Thread 4–5 pieces of meat on to each skewer. Season the meat with a
sprinkle of olive oil, salt and pepper, then grill over the robata pit until
medium-rare, rotating and spraying with the sake-mirin spray as the meat
cooks.

Set the skewers aside on a board and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile,
cut the kombu dashi jelly into small squares and place in a bowl. Transfer the
skewers to a plate, and serve with the mooli (daikon) and kombu dashi jelly.
◁ King Prawns (Shrimp)
I’ve always preferred king prawns (shrimp) over tiger prawns
(jumbo shrimp), despite the latter being more common in
Japanese cuisine. I recommend buying the finest quality
prawns (shrimp) and cooking them simply.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

1kg (2lb. 4oz.) frozen king prawns (shrimp), preferably MSC-certified

Sake-Mirin Spray

Defrost the prawns (shrimp) in the fridge in their pack in a shallow tray
overnight.

Start the robata grill. Remove the prawns (shrimp) from the pack, rinse under
cold running water and leave to drain in a colander for a few minutes. These
are cooked in their shell, but you do need to remove the intestine to ensure
they are not gritty. Insert a small metal skewer into the top of the prawns
(shrimp), between the head and the body. Ensure you get a good grip beneath
the intestine tube, then pull it out. If the intestine breaks in the process, go
further down the top of the prawn (shrimp) and repeat the process; it will be
visible to the eye through the shell. Wash the prawns (shrimp) one more time.

When the coals are ready, grill the prawns (shrimp) on the griddle. When
they start taking on colour, rotate and spray with the sake-mirin spray to keep
them nice and moist. When the prawns (shrimp) are cooked – they should be
bright red – place on a serving dish.
Live and Let Dive: Scallops with
Seaweed Butter
Guy Grieve, a good friend and truly ethical fisherman, has been
fishing off the Isle of Mull in Scotland for the last decade. Guy is
literally foraging the seabed for the finest-quality scallops,
carefully selecting the correct size and putting back smaller
scallops in good hiding places until they have grown to the
perfect size. Scallops are best in the winter when the sea is
colder.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 4

1/2 tsp wakame seaweed

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) good-quality unsalted butter
1/2 tsp aonori seaweed
1/2 clove of garlic, finely chopped
squeeze of 1/4 lemon
12 scallops, cleaned and out of the shell
pinch of sea salt

You will need: 4 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Start the robata grill. Place the wakame seaweed in a pestle and mortar or
small food processor and crush until a fine powder. Gently melt the butter in
a small saucepan, adding the wakame powder, aonori, garlic and lemon juice.
Pour into a shallow tray, large enough to hold a skewer.

Thread three scallops on to each skewer, then place over the robata pit,
rotating just as they take on colour, about 1–2 minutes. Dip or roll in the
seaweed butter and return to the robata for another minute to seal in the
flavours. Place all the skewers on a serving dish, sprinkle with the sea salt
and drizzle with the remainder of the butter.
Salmon Negishio
This is a simple recipe, which originated from Kyoto as a
Donburi-style dish, but it also works well as a chunky piece of
salmon with the sauce on top.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

1/4 side of salmon fillet

olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE NEGISHIO DRESSING

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sesame oil
1 spring onion (scallion), chopped into fine rings
1 tsp white sesame seeds

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Start the robata grill. First, make the negishio dressing. Add the sesame oil to
a bowl, then mix in the spring onion (scallion), white sesame seeds and a
sprinkle of sea salt.

Cut the salmon into small ‘half side’ steaks (shown here). Skewer each piece
with two skewers, then season with salt and pepper.

Place a wire rack over the robata pit, brush with oil and grill the salmon on
each side until just cooked; this will only take a few minutes. Place on a
rectangular serving dish, garnish with the negishio sauce and serve
immediately.
◁ Faux Unagi – Herring Kabayaki Style
Eel (unagi) is a very popular fish, both for sushi and as a street
snack, usually grilled and basted in a lovely sticky kabayaki
sauce. Unfortunately, the European eel population is on the
brink of collapse due to overfishing of glass eels to supply the
eel farms in the Far East. Until the eel population stabilizes, I
like to play around with alternatives. In this recipe I use herring,
which are similar to eels, with a fatty, meaty texture, albeit they
are a sea fish whereas the eel spends its mature life in
freshwater river systems.
Herring has again become one of the most sustainable fish
available, with the majority now being MSC-certified. It is
mostly eaten cured and pickled, as has been the tradition in
the northern hemisphere for over a thousand years. This
method was originally born out of necessity, as a way of
preserving this highly nutritious fatty fish; it is now a speciality
food, particularly enjoyed around the festive season. One tricky
part about herring is an additional set of bones; these normally
soften through traditional pickling, so you would not notice
them, but it is near impossible to serve herring sashimi-style. I
suggest you ask your fishmonger to butterfly fillet the herring
so the larger bones are all removed. Do not worry about the
very small bones hardly visible to the eye – these will soften
through the grilling.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
4 tbsp soft brown sugar
2 tsp potato flour
8 medium herring

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Make the kabayaki sauce by placing the soy, mirin, sake and sugar in a
saucepan over a gentle heat and stirring until the sugar is melted, all the
ingredients are incorporated and the alcohol has evaporated. Mix the potato
flour in a little cold water, adding a little at a time to the sauce, and continue
to cook until you have a thick, sticky sauce, similar in consistency to runny
honey. Set aside.

Start the robata grill. To prepare the herring, cut each butterflied fillet across
the width of the fillet into two blocks, so you have two equal-sized half fillets
per portion. Now skewer two of the half fillets with two skewers each, and
repeat until you have eight portions.

When the robata is ready, place the herring skewers across the robata pit and
fry for a minute or so on each side, just to seal and take on colour. Baste the
herring with the kabayaki sauce, rotating repeatedly and continuing to baste
until you start to build up a nice caramelization on the fish. When done, stack
high on a plate ready for sharing, and serve with Japanese Slaw with Garlic
Mayo and Hibiki.
◁ Sardines Japanese-Style
Sardines in Japan are eaten in a very similar manner to those in
the Mediterranean, however there is a twist, and here they are
served in their Japanese configuration: with finely grated
wasabi, ginger and mooli (daikon), the holy trinity. This dish is
packed with omega 3 oils, benefiting from the counter balance
of the traditional Japanese condiments. In this recipe I use
fresh wasabi, available online, however this can be replaced
with powdered wasabi if not accessible.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 cloves of garlic
2 tbsp yuzu juice (alternatively, use grapefruit juice)
1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
6 shiso leaves or 1/2 bunch of mint leaves
12 small sardines, cleaned and gutted
10cm (4in.) piece of fresh ginger
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
1 fresh wasabi root (or 2 tbsp powder)
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) light soy sauce
olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

You will need: 12 fine metal skewers

Peel and crush the garlic and add to a mixing bowl with the yuzu juice,
shichimi chilli powder, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and a little sea salt and
freshly ground black pepper. Roll the shiso or mint leaves into a cylinder, cut
into fine strips and add to the marinade. Mix well. Place the sardines in a
shallow tray and spoon over the marinade, rub gently into the fish and turn
them over so they are fully covered. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Start the robata grill. Meanwhile, prepare the garnish. Peel the ginger with a
spoon by scraping off the brown skin, then grate on the fine side of the grater
into a pulp, squeezing out the juice (the juice is not used, but do drink it as a
quick energizing shot). Divide the ginger pulp into four small balls. Repeat
this process with the mooli (daikon). To grate the wasabi, use a specialist
grater. Remove the outer layer at the end of the wasabi with a very sharp
knife, cutting away from yourself and creating a pointy edge to start grating
from. Thereafter, using gentle round movements, grate the wasabi into a soft
paste, getting as much out of one rhizome as possible. Ensure to remove all
the wasabi from the grater using a pastry or specialist wasabi brush. If using
wasabi powder, mix with a little water into a smooth paste. Divide into four
portions and arrange four dipping trays with a dot of ginger, mooli (daikon)
and wasabi in each.

Skewer the sardines through their length with a metal skewer, just to give
them some additional support. Place a wire rack over the robata pit, brush
with a little oil and grill the sardines for 2–3 minutes on each side until just
cooked through.

Place the sardines on a serving tray. Pour the light soy sauce into a dipping
tray and the dish is ready to eat. Encourage diners to mix the ginger, mooli
(daikon) and wasabi with the soy sauce, pick pieces of the sardines and dip
these in the mixture – perfect little mouthfuls.
◁Baby Squid Stuffed with Mountain
Rice
This recipe is very delicate and quite fiddly, so do allow plenty
of time for stuffing the baby squid. I promise all the hard work
will pay off. This recipe includes Japanese Mountain Rice; you
will not need a full portion, so I suggest either halving the
recipe, or plan to serve the leftover rice as a side dish (which
would be easier). I allow for a few extra squid in this recipe just
in case a couple turn out slightly wobbly or split.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

10 fresh cleaned large baby squid

1/2 portion Japanese Mountain Rice
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8–10 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

To prepare the squid, hold on to the body of the squid with one hand, and
with the other hand pull away the head, including intestines and tentacles.
Cut away the small head (and eyes) and discard. In the middle of the tentacle
sits a small beak-like mouth – pull this away and discard. Inside the squid
you will find a quill which looks like plastic – again, remove this and discard.
Now wash the squid tubes and tentacles and dab dry with kitchen (paper)
towel.

Place a frying pan (skillet) on the hob (stove top), add a generous dash of
olive oil and heat to smoking point. Fry the tentacles, repeatedly tossing them
until crisp and curly. Place on a chopping board, chop finely and add to the
mountain rice, mixing well.
To stuff the squid tube, make a short 1cm (1/2in.) slit at the opening of the
squid along its fold. Holding a tube in one hand, fold down the opening of the
squid to make it slightly larger, but without tearing the fish further. With your
other hand, gather a small handful of the rice mixture and gradually stuff the
tubes until just the top opening is unfilled, then fold this over and secure with
a skewer. Repeat until all the squid are stuffed.

Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack on the robata, brush the stuffed squid
with oil and place on the heat. Rotate every few minutes and spray with the
sake-mirin spray in between to add flavour. Place on a serving dish and
garnish with Kappa Pickles; serve with cutlery on this occasion, as they are
best enjoyed in slices.
◁ Octopus and Dashi Pickles
Octopus is possibly my favourite fish; to me it will always be a
testimony to a chef’s skills as the outcome reflects their
attitude to ingredients. Here, the octopus is served with fresh
pickles to complement this wonderful creature. It is not the
easiest of fish to work with. Octopus is a mollusc, but does not
benefit from a hard shell like other invertebrates such as
scallops and clams. There are many ways of tenderizing
octopus, through brine, vinegar-based cures, marinades and
slow cooking. The Japanese way is slightly different and
includes a gentle massage and a marinade. Fresh octopus is
not always easy to get hold of, but frozen octopus is mostly of
very good quality and works really well too. I recommend
buying this from a good fishmonger.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

3–4 octopus arms (about 500g/ 1lb. 11/2oz.)

2 tsp salt
2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin
olive oil

FOR THE DASHI PICKLES

1 small mooli (daikon)
1/2 cucumber
10 round radishes
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp fish sauce
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

If using frozen octopus, ensure this is fully defrosted, preferably in the fridge
overnight in a colander over a bowl.

Rinse the octopus and place in a large plastic or metal mixing bowl, sprinkle
over the salt and massage the fish for 20 minutes, working the salt into all
parts of the fish. After 20 minutes, rinse off the salt and add the sake and
mirin to the bowl with the octopus. Mix well and place in a zip-lock bag,
squeeze out all the air, zip up the bag and fold over, then leave to cure in the
fridge for about 1 hour.

Peel the mooli (daikon) and split in half lengthways. Cut two-thirds into half
discs about 5mm (1/5in.) thick. Cut the remainder into very fine slices on the
finest setting of a Japanese mandoline. Split the cucumber lengthways, and
then again into quarters. Remove the seeds and discard, then cut the
cucumber into 1cm (1/2in.) pieces. Wash the radishes, keeping the green tops,
and cut each one in half.

Dilute the liquid kombu dashi in 3 tablespoons of cold water, then add the
fish sauce. Add all the vegetables to a freezer bag and pour in the pickling
liquid, shake well and roll up the bag tightly, getting rid of any air, then seal.
Leave to pickle for at least 1 hour, or keep in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Start the robata grill. Cut the octopus into 2cm (3/4 in.) pieces, thread on to
eight skewers, mixing the pieces so each skewer is even-sized, but ensuring
the pieces are not skewered too tightly. When the robata is ready, brush each
skewer with oil and place across the robata pit to grill. Grill on each side for
2–3 minutes until they start taking on colour. Brush the octopus with oil
between each turn, and cook until crispy at the edges. Transfer to a serving
dish and serve with the pickles in a small bowl.
Baby Cuttlefish
Cuttlefish is another shellfish in the mollusc category, in the
same family as squid and octopus. Cuttlefish has the potential
to grow to an enormous size, but is mostly found at the
fishmonger or market at 500–700g (1lb. 11/2oz.– 1lb. 9oz.) in
weight, and 15–25cm (6–10in.) in length. It has an oval, cushion-
shaped body with eight arms and two tentacles protruding
from underneath its head. It is apparently a very intelligent
animal, with the largest brain-to-body ratio of all the squid. In
the UK we have fantastic cuttlefish, however a lot is exported.
At the start of the season I sometimes come across baby
cuttlefish at London’s Billingsgate Fish Market; these are so
tender and work well grilled by themselves or in salads.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

1 tbsp sea salt

24–30 baby cuttlefish (about 500g/ 1lb. 11/2oz.), cleaned
olive oil

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Place the salt in a large bowl of water, clean the cuttlefish by gently rubbing;
if the small ink sac is attached, remove this with the innards. If the cuttlefish
are already cleaned, do still wash them in salted water. Drain and dab dry
with kitchen (paper) towel.

Start the robata grill. Prepare the cuttlefish by threading 3–4 cuttlefish on to
each skewer. When the robata pit is ready, brush the cuttlefish with oil and
grill over the coals, rotating every few minutes and brushing with more oil
until slightly charred at the edges, then serve.
◁ Duck Breasts with Coffee Sauce
This recipe was first introduced to me by a colleague, Masa
Tanaka, and to my great surprise the coffee sauce cut through
the duck breast very well. Originally made with sweet
condensed milk, I have given it my own little Nordic twist using
Skyr with local honey.

SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

60g (21/4oz.) fresh shiitake mushrooms

2 duck breasts, about 120g (41/4oz.)
1 shot of espresso
2 tbsp Skyr
2 tbsp soured cream
1 tbsp honey, preferably local
sea salt
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Start the robata grill.

Brush the mushrooms free of any dirt and cut into slices about 5mm (1/5in.)
thick. Score the duck breasts on the fatty side in a diamond pattern, with
score marks just 5mm (1/5in.) apart. Rub in some sea salt and cut each breast
into cubes. Thread them on to skewers, alternating between duck and
mushroom, ensuring not to pack them too tightly.

For the coffee sauce, mix the shot of espresso (or alternatively, dilute a good-
quality instant coffee in 11/2 tablespoons of boiling water) with the Skyr,
soured cream and honey in a bowl to create a thick, shiny sauce.
When the coals are ready, grill the duck skewers directly over the robata pit,
moving them from intense flame to medium flame as necessary. Rotate as the
meat sears, spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray to add moisture
and control the flames.

When the duck is ready and the skin crisp, place on a serving platter and add
a little of the coffee sauce to each skewer.
◁ Tofu Lollies with 3 Toppings
These tofu sticks work best with a good-quality firm organic
tofu. This gives both the taste of fresh tofu and the perfect little
platform for a sauce to complement the delicacy of the tofu. In
this recipe there are three flavour variations: a fruity seasonal
miso compote, a fresh coriander (cilantro) shiso pesto, and a
fiery chilli jam. For the fruity seasonal miso compote I have
used rhubarb, but it also works well with stone fruit such as
plums, and soft fruits like blackberries or raspberries.
Homemade chilli jam is a labour of love; it is ideal for pasta
dishes and stir-fries, and the depth and aroma of the chillies
will spread throughout the kitchen. I recommend making this
a few days in advance. Chilli jam is available from some Asian
grocers, but do watch out for MSG, as unfortunately this is
often added.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12

11/2 packs firm organic tofu (drained weight about 400–500g/ 14oz.–1lb.
11/2oz.)
4 pieces of rhubarb
1/2 vanilla pod (bean)
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz.) white miso
4 tsp Coriander Pesto
4 tsp Chilli Jam
grapeseed oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 24 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and leave
to allow the liquid to drain out.

For the rhubarb compote, peel the rhubarb by loosening the stringy ends and
pulling off the coarse outer layer. Cut the rhubarb into 3cm (11/4in.) batons,
place in a small saucepan and just cover with water. Split the vanilla pod
(bean) down the middle and add this to the rhubarb along with the cinnamon
and sugar. Cover and leave to simmer over a medium heat on the hob (stove
top), stirring the mixture at 5-minute intervals for about 20 minutes. Once
softened, add the white miso and leave to rest in the saucepan.

Start the robata grill. Cut the tofu block in half and half again, then cut each
piece into three equal-sized rectangular shapes. Skewer each with two
skewers and brush gently with grapeseed oil. Place all the skewers on a
griddle directly over the bincho coals, turning at 1–2-minute intervals and
spraying regularly with the sake-mirin spray to retain moisture and add
flavour. Repeat the process until the tofu is a light golden colour with a few
charred marks.

Place the tofu on a serving plate and top with a teaspoon of the rhubarb
compote, coriander pesto or chilli jam.
◁ Asparagus Namban
A favourite Japanese dish of mine is chicken namban, a weird
combination of West meets East – a tempura chicken in a
sweet and sour soy marinade, with an egg salad served on top,
a dish which apparently arrived in Japan with Portuguese
traders. It occurred to me that this Japanese version of an egg
salad would be great on top of asparagus; it is so addictive, and
works better than a warm béchamel as the cold egg mixture
and the piping hot asparagus complement one another. Get
ready for some messy eating!
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

15 good-quality asparagus spears, in season

1 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise
1 tbsp natural yogurt
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp French mustard
1 tbsp white miso
2 medium hard-boiled eggs
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 stick of celery, cut into tiny cubes
2 shiso leaves
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and
blanch the asparagus for 2 minutes, then plunge into ice-cold water. Drain
and leave to dry on kitchen (paper) towel.

In a mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, rice vinegar, French

mustard and white miso until all incorporated. Peel the hard-boiled eggs and
use a fork to mash the eggs into small pieces, then add to the bowl with the
onion and celery. Set aside in the fridge to cool and firm a little.

Roll up the shiso leaves and chop into shreds. Align five asparagus spears
with the tips together, and starting from the top cut them into 5cm (2in.)
pieces. Repeat with the remaining asparagus. Make little blocks of five pieces
of asparagus, skewer with two skewers to secure, and repeat to make eight
skewers. Brush with oil and place over a small rack on the robata grill. Grill
for about 2 minutes on each side, turning 4–5 times until they are cooked
through and gently charred on the edges. Place one set on top of another, then
top with the egg mixture, sprinkle with shiso leaves and serve.

VARIATION:
Sometimes asparagus is so good that it just calls for a simple
sprinkling of good-quality sea salt. Follow the instructions
above, but omit the namban egg salad and simply sprinkle
the asparagus with flaky sea salt when ready to serve.
 nibbles
Most Japanese meals are accompanied by a selection of small
side dishes, often consisting of vegetables, tofu or lighter bites,
gently seasoned with soy, mirin and kombu dashi – little plates
of freshly made pickles, or tofu dressed in an umami-based
sauce, served chilled or hot depending on the season. They are
eaten as appetizers or alongside the main meal. Nibbles are
also great served with drinks while waiting for main dishes to
come off the robata grill.
Miso soup is one of the cornerstones of a Japanese meal.
Miso really is the elixir of life, packed with beneficial bacteria
from the fermenting process, so it’s not only a cooking
ingredient but the base of a very healthy and satisfying dish. I
have included a miso soup recipe here – slightly salty, savoury,
and based on fermented soy bean paste, it is delicious,
promoting longevity and good health.
Another popular appetizer are edamame beans, fresh soy
beans served in the shell, and with the highest protein count of
any vegetable. Commonly steamed and served with a sprinkle
of sea salt, they work well grilled on the robata too, with a soy-
or miso-based dipping sauce.
Panko-Crusted Yuzu Tofu
This dish of shallow-fried tofu bites is utterly delicious served in
a simple yuzu dipping sauce.
SERVES 4

1 pack firm tofu (drained weight about 340g/12oz.)

2 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
1 tbsp mirin
1 unwaxed lemon
1 large free-range egg
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour
pinch of salt
100g (31/2oz./2 cups) panko breadcrumbs
300ml (11/4 cups) grapeseed (or sunflower) oil, for frying
shiso cress

Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel (without any patterns or
marks) to draw out the liquid. Repeat the process with a fresh piece of
kitchen (paper) towel and leave to rest while preparing the dipping sauce.

Mix 1 tablespoon of yuzu with the honey and mirin in a bowl. Remove the
peel from half the lemon with a peeler, ensuring you only take the peel and
none of the white flesh. Chop the lemon peel into fine strips and set aside.
Grate the zest of the other half of the lemon on a microplane grater and set
aside. Cut the lemon in half and add all the juice to the yuzu dipping sauce.

Whisk the egg in a shallow dish and add the remaining tablespoon of yuzu.
Place the flour in another shallow dish and season with the salt. Add the
panko breadcrumbs to a third shallow dish and mix in the finely grated lemon
zest.
Cut the tofu block into 12 rectangular pieces. Now work in three batches (you
will need to rinse your hands between batches as it gets messy), first pressing
the tofu into the flour, then dipping in the egg and finally pressing into the
panko, ensuring all sides are well coated. Set aside on a large plate and repeat
the process with the rest of the tofu.

Heat the oil in a shallow pan or small wok. When the oil reaches 180°C
(350°F), fry the tofu in two batches. After 1 minute, turn the tofu pieces and
fry for 1 more minute for an even golden colour. Add to a rectangular serving
dish, garnish with lemon peel strips and shiso cress, and gently pour the
dipping sauce into the base of the dish. Serve hot.
Lemongrass-Poached Mussels
Wrapping small shellfish such as mussels, clams and cockles in
foil parcels and steaming on the robata grill works wonders.
SERVES 4

500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) small Blue Rope Mussels

1 stalk of lemongrass
5 shiso leaves
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped

Start the robata grill. Place the mussels in a bowl of cold water, rub clean on
the outside, and discard any open shells which do not close when tapped.
Rinse once more and leave to drip in a colander. Bash the end of the
lemongrass with the handle of your knife to bruise it. Roll up the shiso leaves
and finely chop into shreds, then set aside. Combine the mirin and sake
together in a bowl.

Take a large piece of foil, place the mussels in the middle and fold up the
edges a little. Pour in the liquid, sprinkle with the garlic, and place the
lemongrass on top. Close the parcel, allowing plenty of space inside for the
steam to work its magic.

Place the parcel on a wire rack over the bincho coals and leave to steam for
8–10 minutes; take a peek by opening the parcel in one corner to see if the
mussels have started to open. When all of the mussels are cooked, gently
pour into a shallow serving bowl, removing any unopened shells. Sprinkle
with the shiso leaves and serve, encouraging your guests to scoop up the
poaching juices with the shells. This dish works well with the Aonori
Flatbread to soak up the juices.
Miso Soup
To many Japanese, a meal is not complete without miso soup.
It has a fantastic savoury, smooth flavour and great health
benefits, including natural probiotics developed through the
fermentation of the soy bean into miso. Miso is also naturally
high in protein and low in fat. Sometimes hon dashi, made
from cured and dried bonito fish, is added, but actually kombu,
shiitake and a hint of onion work equally well for a vegan boost
of umami. Use yellow miso in this recipe; I recommend trying
various brands until you find the flavour that seems right for
you. Traditionally, miso is served with wakame, tofu and spring
onion (scallion). This soup is to be drunk straight from the miso
bowl, and chopsticks used to pick up the wonderful garnish. It
is not customary to serve the soup with a spoon and it is
actually a bit of a faux pas to do so when it comes to Japanese
etiquette.
SERVES 4

1 small onion
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) piece of kombu
1.5 litres (6 cups) boiling water
100g (31/2oz.) yellow miso
5g (1/6oz.) wakame seaweed
1/2 x 340g (12oz.) pack silken tofu
2 spring onions (scallions)
Peel the onion and cut in half, then add to a saucepan with the shiitake
mushrooms, kombu and water. Return to the boil and leave to simmer over a
low heat for 20 minutes. Add the miso and leave to simmer for a further 10
minutes, until the miso has dissolved into the soup.

Remove the kombu, shiitake and onion and discard. Add the wakame
seaweed and leave to simmer for a further 5 minutes until it has bloomed.
Meanwhile, cube the tofu and place in four miso bowls. Peel, rinse and trim
the spring onions (scallions), then cut into fine slices.

Ladle the miso soup over the tofu, ensuring there is an equal share of wakame
in each. Garnish with the spring onions (scallions) and serve.
Lotus Crisp with Fresh Crab
Taramasalata
If you can, I recommend hand-picking your own crab meat for
the best flavour. Alternatively, buy the finest sustainable ready
picked crab from a coastal fishery local to you.

SERVES 4

1 lotus root
500ml (2 cups) grapeseed (or sunflower) oil, for frying
300g (101/2oz.) brown crab meat
2 egg yolks
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
juice of 1/2 lemon
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
200g (7oz.) white crab claw meat
sea salt
freshly grated nutmeg
cayenne pepper, to sprinkle

Peel the lotus root. On the finest setting on a Japanese mandoline, slice the
lotus into paper-thin discs and leave to rest in cold water for 20 minutes or so.

Drain the lotus crisps, spread flat on a tea (dish) towel and press dry. Heat the
grapeseed oil in a small wok or shallow pan and fry the lotus root until just
golden. Remove from the hot oil, place on a lined baking tray and season
with sea salt.

Push the brown crab meat through a sieve, pressing a wooden spoon against
the sides to remove all liquid. Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering
water and gently heat. Add the egg yolks and whisk until you have a smooth
emulsion. Add the garlic and lemon juice and stir in. Now drizzle in the olive
oil in a gentle stream, stirring constantly to ensure the egg mixture doesn’t
cook, and carry on until all the olive oil is absorbed. Add the brown crab
meat and stir for a few minutes until heated through. Remove from the heat
so as not to overcook, and pour into a shallow dish.

Place the white crab meat on top of the brown crab mixture. Season with
grated nutmeg and a sprinkle of cayenne pepper, and serve alongside the
lotus crisps.
Shishito (Padron) Peppers
Shishito peppers are very popular at your typical robata joint
across Japan. They are similar to Spanish padron peppers,
widely available across Europe.
SERVES 4

500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) shishito (padron) peppers

2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt

Start the robata grill. Wash the peppers, drain in a colander and place on
kitchen (paper) towel, folding it over to dab the peppers dry. Put a grid over
the hot bincho coals and grill the peppers until just charred and slightly
collapsing.

Place in a mixing bowl, add the olive oil and mix until all the peppers are
coated. Pour into a small shallow dish, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve.
Yuzu Miso-Marinated Salmon Bites
For this recipe, we are using good-quality fresh salmon,
however there is no need to use the prime cuts as the tail part
or brown meat is perfectly suitable for this recipe as long as it is
a good-quality responsibly farmed salmon. The miso works
wonders on the raw salmon as the fermented soy bean cures
the salmon, while the yuzu adds a sharpness to the taste, but
without the acidity of the yuzu ‘cooking’ the salmon as
sometimes happens when a tartare or ceviche is left to
marinate a little too long (we are talking minutes here).
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

2 tbsp sweet miso

1 tsp mirin
1 tsp yuzu juice
100g (31/2oz.) fresh salmon (use offcuts if available)
10g (1/3oz.) mixed sesame seeds
1/4 bunch of chives
8 shiso leaves
alfalfa sprouts, to garnish
coriander (cilantro) micro cress, to garnish

In a small mixing bowl, combine the miso, mirin and yuzu into a smooth
paste. Chop the salmon by hand into pieces no larger than 5 x 5mm (1/5 x 1/5
in.), then add to the dressing. Add the sesame seeds and chives and stir all the
ingredients until fully incorporated. Leave to marinate for 10 minutes.

Place the shiso leaves on a serving dish, spoon the salmon mixture equally
between the eight leaves. Garnish with alfalfa sprouts and coriander (cilantro)
micro cress, and the bites are ready to serve.
Chilled Tofu Agadashi
This is a classic dish, most often served warm in the winter
months as a small appetizer or as a component of the
traditional Japanese meal. For the hot version, the dipping
sauce is served warm and the tofu coated in cornflour
(cornstarch) and shallow-fried. There is a robata version shown
here.
This dish works well served in individual bowls as an opening
course to the headline acts coming off the robata. The recipe
includes dashi, the Japanese stock so essential to much of
Japanese cooking. It is simple to make providing you have
access to katsuobushi and kombu (shown here), both available
from Japanese grocery stores or online. For a vegan version, the
go-to product would be liquid kombu dashi; check the
packaging and if it contains corn syrup, omit the mirin to
adjust the sweetness.
SERVES 4

1 pack soft silken tofu (drained weight 160g/51/2oz.)

11/2 tbsp mirin
11/2 tbsp light soy sauce
small piece of fresh ginger
1 heaped tsp wasabi powder
2 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings

FOR THE DASHI

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) filtered or mineral water
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of dried kombu
2 small handfuls bonito flakes (about 10g/1/3oz.)

Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel (without any patterns or
marks) to draw out the liquid. Place on a plate and leave in the fridge to firm
and chill for 30 minutes.

Make the dashi: pour the water into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer
(not boiling). Wipe clean the kombu with a damp cloth and add to the water.
Add two-thirds of the bonito flakes to the simmering water for 2 minutes,
then remove the saucepan from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, run the liquid through a sieve, discarding the bonito flakes
and kombu and retaining the liquid. Add the mirin and soy sauce, mix well
and place in the fridge to cool down.

Peel the ginger and grate on the finest blade of a traditional grater. Add a
teaspoon of cold water to the wasabi powder to make a firm paste, and divide
into four portions, then shape into small round balls.

Remove the tofu from the fridge and cut into four equal-sized squares, place
in small shallow bowls, garnish with wasabi, grated ginger, spring onions
(scallions) and the remaining bonito flakes. Just before serving, pour the
chilled dashi into the base of each bowl and serve with a spoon.
Grilled Baby Gem with Miso and
Honey
Local honey is a cure for all ills, boosting our immune systems. I
reach for it at the first sign of a cold; without the bees we
would literally be doomed.

SERVES 4

4 baby gem lettuces

1 tbsp dark red miso
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
1 tbsp soy sauce
juice of 1/2 lemon

FOR THE DRESSING

1 small clove of garlic
pinch of sea salt
2 tbsp white miso
1 tbsp local honey
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes

Remove and discard the outer layer of the lettuces and cut each one in half.
Wash gently under running water and leave to dry on kitchen (paper) towel
for 20 minutes, cut edge facing down.

Dissolve the red miso in the olive oil, whisking gently with a small whisk,
and add the soy sauce and lemon juice. Dress the baby gem in the miso oil,
ensuring the oil penetrates in between the layers of leaves without peeling
them apart, as you want the baby gem to stay tightly packed for the grilling.
Start the robata grill. Place the garlic and sea salt in a pestle and mortar and
pulp until the garlic is smashed and you have an even paste. Add the white
miso and work it into the garlic, followed by the honey. Gradually drizzle in
the extra-virgin olive oil, and carry on grinding until you have a smooth
dressing.

Skewer each piece of lettuce with two skewers, one either side, to hold it
together. Place cut side down on the robata and char a little before rotating.
Repeat a few times, ensuring the lettuce doesn’t burn; they only need a few
minutes. Place on a serving plate, cut edge upwards and drizzle with the
dressing.
Steamed/Grilled Edamame with Sea
Salt
Steamed and salted edamame, the most famous of all
Japanese appetizers, can also be given the robata treatment
for a smoky flavour.

SERVES 4

200g (7oz.) edamame beans, in their pods

11/2 tbsp soy sauce
11/2 tbsp mirin
11/2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
lime wedges

You will need: a frying basket to place over the bincho coals

Start the robata grill. Ensure the edamame are fully defrosted (leave them out
of the freezer for 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge). In a mixing bowl,
combine the soy sauce, mirin and olive oil, then add the edamame and toss
well until fully covered.

Add the edamame to the frying basket and place it across the robata pit,
tossing occasionally until slightly charred on the edges and piping hot.
Decant into a serving bowl and sprinkle with sea salt. Add wedges of lime
and serve.
 salads+sides
The Japanese bowl: a beautiful handcrafted container with its
own character. I like to choose the perfect size to show off the
beauty of its contents to the recipient. Bowl food is ingrained in
Japanese culture, from traditional noodle dishes to the newer
incarnations of the poke bowl and buddha bowl – the ideal
vessel for individual eating.
Salads in their modern configuration as a bowl food are not
traditionally eaten in Japan, but have become popular in
Asian-themed restaurants globally as a brilliant way of using
seasonal produce and including some of the great Japanese
ingredients available. With the growing interest in complex
carbohydrates and ancient grains, using brown rice, quinoa
and seeds has been a natural development, as most of these
are widely available in traditional Japanese cuisine – bar the
excellent quinoa, which is a newcomer to most of us and is in
fact a seed, not a grain, hence its high protein count.
This chapter features a selection of salad bowls, which can
be eaten alone or as a side with a selection of robata dishes. I
would include at least two of these dishes in a robata setting to
balance the meal.
◁ Buckwheat, Papaya and Tofu Salad
Buckwheat is used for soba noodles in Japan, which contain
either 100% buckwheat or a combination of buckwheat and
wheat flours. They are served chilled on ice with a soy dipping
sauce with wasabi, spring onion (scallion) and ginger. Due to its
durability, buckwheat was grown in mountainous areas where
other crops would struggle, but these days Japan imports a lot
of its buckwheat.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1 pack organic firm tofu (drained weight about 325g/111/2oz.)

300g (101/2oz./2 cups) roasted buckwheat
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 ripe papaya
50g (2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
1 tbsp black sesame seeds
1 tbsp black chia seeds
1 tbsp poppy seeds
2 eggs
plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting
300ml (11/4 cups) sunflower oil, for frying
1/2 portion Red Onion Pickles
salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE PAPAYA DRESSING

dried papaya seeds (from the papaya above, see recipe)
1 clove of garlic
1 tsp wasabi powder
2 tsp yuzu juice
31/2 tbsp olive oil

Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and leave
to draw out the liquid.

Rinse the buckwheat in cold water, drain, and place in a saucepan, covered
with water so that the water line is 1cm (1/2in.) above the buckwheat. Bring to
the boil, leave to simmer for 17 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave
to rest for 17 minutes. Season the buckwheat with the olive oil, salt and
pepper, and leave to cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Cut the papaya in half,
scoop out the seeds, place on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 20
minutes to dry. Scoop out the papaya flesh and chop roughly. Leave the
edamame to defrost on a plate.

Now prepare the tofu for its chia seed crust. In a pestle and mortar, crush the
black sesame seeds coarsely, decant into a bowl and mix with the chia and
poppy seeds, then season with freshly ground pepper and salt. Crack the eggs
into a bowl and whisk. Add the flour to a third bowl. Cut the tofu into 2 x
2cm (3/4 x 3/4 in.) squares. In batches, dust the tofu first in the flour, then dip
in the egg, and finally press into the seed mixture until fully coated. Repeat
until all the tofu is done.

To make the dressing, crush the papaya seeds in a pestle and mortar. Add the
garlic and a pinch of salt, crush and incorporate into a paste. Add the wasabi
and yuzu, mix well, and when smooth, gradually add the oil to make a
dressing.

Heat the oil in a wok, fry the tofu in two batches for 2 minutes each, and
leave to drain on kitchen (paper) towel.

In a salad bowl, place the buckwheat and the red onion pickles. Add the
papaya flesh, edamame and half the dressing. Scatter the tofu on top and
drizzle with the remaining dressing.
◁Japanese Green Bean Salad with
Crispy Tofu
Soy is one of the cornerstones of the Japanese diet. I often had
a salad on the menu celebrating the various versions of soy in
one dish – a protein on protein festival. This dish is highly
nutritious, the perfect vegan feast, and really packs a punch.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1 pack organic firm tofu (drained weight about 325g/111/2oz.)

100g (31/2oz.) French green beans
100g (31/2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
100g (31/2oz./3/4 cup) unblanched almonds
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
100g (31/2oz.) mixed baby leaves
100g (31/2oz.) mangetout (snow peas)
2 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)
150ml (2/3 cup) sunflower oil, for frying
1/2 white salad onion, finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE YUZU-MIRIN DRESSING

2 cloves of garlic, crushed
2 tbsp mild American mustard
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
11/2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp sushi vinegar
31/2 tbsp yuzu juice
3 tbsp mirin
200ml (3/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil

Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and leave
to draw out the liquid.

Trim the green beans and cut in half. Bring 1 litre (4 cups) of water to the
boil in a medium saucepan with a steamer on top. Steam the beans and
edamame for 2 minutes, then plunge into iced water to retain the colour and
cool them down.

Roast the almonds in a dry frying pan, and when they have taken on colour,
add the soy sauce and honey. Stir for a few minutes to ensure all the almonds
are coated. Place on baking parchment to cool down.

Wash the baby leaves and dry them in a salad spinner. Slice the mangetout
(snow peas) into three pieces on the diagonal.

For the dressing, place the garlic in a food processor with the mustard and
sugar, and give everything a whizz until all is incorporated. Add the soy
sauce, sushi vinegar, yuzu and mirin, turn the machine back on, and after a
few minutes gradually add the olive oil until the dressing is smooth and even.

Cut the tofu into 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4 in.) squares. Season the cornflour
(cornstarch) with salt and pepper and dust the tofu in the seasoned flour. Heat
the oil in a wok and fry the tofu for 3 minutes until crisp all over, then drain
on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel.

Place the soy-coated almonds on a chopping board and chop roughly.

Assemble all the ingredients in a salad bowl with 3–4 tablespoons of the
dressing, and toss until all is mixed well. The remaining dressing will keep
for up to 2 weeks in the fridge, but shake well before use.
◁ Herb-Cured Tofu on Soba Noodles
This recipe uses a Chinese black vinegar in the dressing, adding
sweetness and aroma to the dish.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1 pack firm tofu (drained weight about 340g/12oz.)

8 shiso leaves or 16 mint leaves
1/2 large bunch of coriander (cilantro) leaves, finely chopped
1/2 large bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
10 sprigs of chives, snipped into rings
4 tbsp olive oil
1 x 250g (9oz.) pack soba noodles
2 tbsp black vinegar
1 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
100g (31/2oz) rocket (arugula) leaves
100g (31/2oz.) Red Onion Pickles
200g (7oz.) cherry tomatoes, halved
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and leave
to draw out the liquid. Roll up the shiso or mint leaves and cut into strips.

Mix all the herbs together in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and
season with salt and pepper. Cut the tofu into 1 x 1 cm (1/2 x 1/2in.) cubes and
add to the bowl, turning gently in the marinade to ensure it is fully covered.

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, for 7–8 minutes, until
al dente. Drain and rinse under cold running water for a few minutes; this
gives the noodles a nice shine.
Make the salad dressing by combining the black vinegar, kombu dashi and
the remaining olive oil in a bowl or jug and mixing well.

In a large salad bowl, add the soba noodles, rocket (arugula), red onion
pickles, cherry tomatoes and half the dressing and mix well. Scatter the tofu
pieces on top and drizzle the remainder of the dressing over all the
ingredients.
Seaweed Salad with Smooth Wasabi
Dashi Dressing
Seaweed has been eaten in Far East Asia for centuries, and is
part of the daily diet. Full of nutrients and very sustainable, it is
perfect for salads.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

20g (3/4oz.) kaiso seaweed mix

20cm (8in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
2 tbsp wasabi powder
2 tbsp honey (preferably local)
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
80–100ml (1/3–scant 1/2 cup) grapeseed oil

Place the seaweed in a large bowl, top up with 2 litres (8 cups) of cold water
and add some ice. Peel the mooli (daikon), cut in half and grate on the fine
setting of a Japanese mandoline. Add to another mixing bowl and cover with
ice-cold water.

Now make the dressing: mix the wasabi with a little water to create a smooth
paste, and add to a food processor with the honey and liquid kombu dashi.
Whizz to form a smooth paste, then gradually add the grapeseed oil until you
have a good emulsion.

Drain the mooli (daikon), rinse a couple of times, then drain again. Drain the
seaweed. Place the mooli (daikon) in a large serving bowl, top with the
seaweed, then drizzle over the dressing and serve.
Green Beans and Sugar Snap Peas in
Mustard Miso
A great little side dish with plenty of crunch.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

300g (101/2oz.) green beans

100g (31/2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
200g (7oz.) sugar snap peas
1 cos lettuce

FOR THE DRESSING

2 tbsp miso paste
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp red wine vinegar
1/2 small red onion
1 clove of garlic
1 tsp pumpkin seed oil
grapeseed oil

First prepare the dressing. In a bowl or jug, combine the miso paste with the
mustards and the red wine vinegar. Grate the red onion and crush the garlic,
then add to the mixture with the pumpkin seed oil. Mix well and gradually
add enough grapeseed oil to make a thick, smooth emulsion. Set aside.

Trim the green beans at either end, then cut in half. Steam all three beans
together in a steamer, then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down and retain
their colour.

Wash the cos lettuce leaves, tear into large pieces and set aside in a colander.
Drain the beans, then add to a serving bowl with the lettuce leaves. Toss
through the dressing and serve.
Heritage Tomato, Wakame and Dashi
Salad
This recipe really is a triple umami feast, including the fifth
taste element in three different food sources: tomatoes,
seaweed and dashi. The tomatoes in this recipe are mixed
heritage tomatoes, but could be any perfectly ripe tomato; if
growing your own, this recipe would be even more perfect. The
dressing uses liquid kombu dashi, but would also work with a
homemade dashi (shown here), although the dish would no
longer be vegetarian.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

10g (1/3oz.) dried wakame seaweed

1 tbsp wasabi powder
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
1 tbsp light soy sauce
31/2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
11/2 tbsp olive oil
300g (101/2oz.) sun-ripe heritage tomatoes
flaky sea salt

Add the wakame seaweed to a bowl and pour over 500ml (2 cups) of cold
water. Leave to unfold for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. In a bowl, mix the wasabi powder with 1
tablespoon of water to create a paste. Add the honey, soy sauce and kombu to
a mixing bowl and whisk well. When all the ingredients are incorporated,
gradually add the oil a little at a time, whisking constantly until combined as
a luscious dressing.
Drain the wakame seaweed in a colander. Rinse the tomatoes, cut into
quarters and place on a serving dish. Arrange the wakame seaweed in little
pockets among the tomato wedges, drizzle with the dashi dressing and season
with sea salt.
Early Summer Salad of Asparagus,
Carrot and Mangetout (Snow Peas)
This salad awaits the arrival of local asparagus, but when it
comes into season it should almost be eaten daily. So here is a
Japanese version which works very well as an accompaniment
to robata dishes. All the vegetables are steamed separately for
a few minutes, and it is very important to have a bowl of iced
water to hand for instant cooling and to retain colour.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

100g (31/2oz.) mizuna or rocket (arugula) leaves

1 bunch of asparagus
1 bunch of young carrots
100g (31/2oz.) mangetout (snow peas)
50g (2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sesame paste or tahini
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
2 tbsp light soy sauce
squeeze of lemon juice
10g (1/3 oz.) mixed sesame seeds

Rinse the mizuna thoroughly, then spin in a salad spinner to dry and set aside.
Trim the woody end of the asparagus; if the spears are young and have just
come into season, the majority of the stalk will be fresh and crunchy, so do
not overdo this process. Wash in cold water and cut each spear into three
pieces on the diagonal. Remove the tops from the carrots, but leave about
2cm (3/4in.) of green stalks – these are edible and look pretty too. With a
clean kitchen pad/scourer, gently scrub the carrots to remove any dirt, wash
in cold water, then cut into quarters lengthways, and then again into 2–3
pieces each, to approximately the same length as the asparagus. Wash the
mangetout (snow peas), stack in piles of three, then cut each pile into three
pieces on the diagonal.

Heat a little water in a saucepan with a steamer on top. Have a large bowl of
ice-cold water ready nearby. Steam the vegetables separately, plunging each
one into ice-cold water straight after cooking to retain the colour and crunch.
Steam the asparagus for 3 minutes, the carrots for 3–6 minutes – do check
these with a pointy knife; they should be firm to the touch and al dente – and
the mangetout (snow peas) for 2 minutes. Steam the edamame beans for 2
minutes – they are ready when bright green – then plunge into the ice-cold
water. Leave all the vegetables to cool in the iced water while making the
dressing.

In a mixing bowl, add the sesame paste, honey, soy sauce and lemon juice,
and mix well until all the ingredients are incorporated. Drain the steamed
vegetables. Place the mizuna leaves in the base of a salad bowl, arrange the
steamed veg rustic-style on top, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and finally
drizzle with the sesame dressing and serve.
Summer Salad of Okra, Tomatoes and
Toasted Quinoa
For this recipe I would use the best-quality ripe local tomatoes
available. I am using heritage tomatoes combined with extra
tiger tomatoes, as their tartness works perfectly with the grilled
okra.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

400g (14oz.) medium okra

1 tbsp good-quality olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sunflower oil
100g (31/2oz/2/3 cup) quinoa
80g (3oz./1/2 cup) whole almonds, skin on
200g (7oz.) mixed baby leaves, washed
4–5 heritage tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths of roughly similar size
4 green tiger tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths of roughly similar size
4 shiso leaves or a handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped
handful of dill, stalks removed, roughly chopped
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE DRESSING

1 x 3cm (11/4in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and grated
1 tsp wasabi powder
2 tbsp honey
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tbsp sushi vinegar
3 tbsp good-quality olive oil

Start the robata grill. Wash the okra and drain in a colander, then cut one tiny
slit in the side of each okra to allow the steam to escape when grilling. Dress
the okra in the olive oil and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper.

Heat the sunflower oil in a small, heavy-based saucepan and fry the quinoa
until golden and toasted, about 15 minutes. Place a sieve over a bowl, line
with a piece of kitchen (paper) towel and drain the quinoa, leaving it to drip
while preparing the rest of the salad.

To make the dressing, place the ginger and garlic in a food processor. Mix
the wasabi with an equal amount water to form a smooth paste and add to the
processor with the honey, lemon juice and sushi vinegar. Gradually add the
olive oil until you reach a smooth emulsion, then set aside.

Place a wire rack over the smouldering coals, place the okra on the rack and
grill until slightly charred, rotating a few times while spraying with the sake-
mirin spray to keep them moist. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a small
frying pan (skillet) on the robata grill.

Now assemble the salad in a large serving dish. Place the salad leaves at the
base, top with the tomatoes and okra, then dress with the dressing and
sprinkle with quinoa, fresh herbs and toasted almonds.
Paper-Thin Seasonal Salad
This salad works well with a lot of seasonal vegetables. For best
results, I recommend using a Japanese mandoline on its finest
setting. Caution is required here, as a standard rite of passage
for any aspiring chef or home cook is to slice half a fingertip off
on this very sharp instrument. The mandoline comes with a
guard and I highly recommend using this to ensure the
vegetables are firmly secured against the blade. For the spring
version, suggestions for vegetables would be young carrots,
cucumbers and radishes; for summer, yellow and green
courgettes (zucchini); for autumn (fall), candied, red or golden
beetroots (beets); and for winter, fennel, celeriac and turnips.
The permanent fixture should be mooli (daikon), which is
commonly eaten by the Japanese raw or poached. Here is the
summer version, but the principle is the same for every season.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1 young carrot
1 Lebanese cucumber
6 French breakfast radishes
6 standard red radishes (or purple, if available)
10cm (4in.) long piece of mooli (daikon)
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1 large clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp honey
4 shiso leaves
chives, to garnish
shiso cress, to garnish

Half-fill a large bowl or container with iced water. Peel the carrot, slice along
the length and add to the iced water. Slice the cucumber along the length,
turning it to avoid the seeds in the core; discard the core and add the
cucumber slices to the water. Remove the leaves from the radishes, but keep
a little of the stalk. Slice each radish along the length; it will be difficult to
attach the mandoline guard for the smaller vegetables, so do this slowly. Add
the radishes to the iced water. Finally, peel the mooli (daikon) and cut into
four pieces along the length, then grate each piece into long strips and add to
the iced water. Cover the bowl or container and leave in the fridge for 30
minutes.

For the dressing, add the red onion and garlic to a mixing bowl. Pour in the
soy sauce, mirin and honey, and mix well.

Drain all the vegetables in a colander and spread out on clean kitchen (paper)
towels. Gently dab the vegetables dry, then add to a mixing bowl and pour
over the dressing. Using your hands, gently turn all the vegetables in the
dressing to ensure all the surfaces get a nice coating. Place in a serving dish.

Roll up the shiso leaves and cut into long strips. Cut the chives into 5cm
(2in.) lengths. Trim about half a punnet of shiso cress, then liberally scatter
all the fresh herbs over the salad and it is ready to serve.
Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette
An ideal side dish for many of the robata recipes in this book.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

10g (1/3oz.) hibiki seaweed

1 small clove of garlic
1/2 portion Japanese Mayonnaise
1/2 medium white cabbage
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Soak the hibiki seaweed in iced water for 30 minutes. Peel the garlic, add to a
pestle and mortar, then add a pinch of salt and mash into a fine paste. Add to
the mayonnaise, season with pepper and set aside.

Cut the cabbage in half and then into quarters. Remove the outer leaves and
hard core and slice on the finest setting on a Japanese mandoline (or into
ultra-thin slices with a very sharp, wide bladed knife). Add the cabbage to a
mixing bowl and pour over the mayonnaise. Drain and add the hibiki
seaweed, mix well and serve.
◁Japanese Slaw with Garlic Mayo and
Hibiki
The perfect slaw, with crunch and a variety of colours and
textures.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1/4 medium white cabbage

10 radishes, preferably French
2 medium carrots
1/2 red onion
1/2 bunch of chives

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE

1 tsp sushi vinegar
1 tsp wasabi powder
1 tsp honey
1/2 tsp Sriracha chilli sauce
4 tbsp yuzu juice
41/2 tbsp grapeseed oil
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

First prepare the vegetables. Peel away the outer layer of the white cabbage
and remove the stalk. Clean the radishes, removing the long string at the tip
and green top, but leave about a centimetre (1/2in.). Peel the carrots, remove
the ends and cut in half. Grate the cabbage and radishes on the finest setting
of a Japanese mandoline. For the carrots, add a medium-sized blade, then
soak the julienned carrot in ice-cold water for 10 minutes to crisp up, then
drain. Chop the chives into fine rings and mix all the vegetables and herbs
together in a serving bowl.
For the yuzu vinaigrette, combine all the ingredients, except the oils, to form
a smooth paste. Then mix the olive and grapeseed oils together and gradually
add to the mixture to form a smooth emulsion. Pour over the vegetables, mix
well and serve (pictured opposite).
Chilled Iceberg with Red Onion Soy
This is a spin on an American barbecue salad that I had in New
York with blue cheese dressing. The whole family was fighting
over the iceberg salad – something normally considered the
devil’s food among us, and in the same category as baby
sweetcorn and Golden Delicious apples. In its Japanification,
this salad is trimmed into rectangular squares and frozen for
up to two hours prior to serving – it’s not called iceberg salad
for nothing!
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

1/2 large or 1 medium iceberg lettuce

1 small red onion
2 large cloves of garlic
31/2 tbsp soy sauce
31/2 tbsp mirin
small handful of bonito flakes, to serve
micro cress, to serve

First trim the iceberg lettuce: to get maximum yield, cut the iceberg on all
four sides into a square-ish shape, then cut into four rectangular blocks. Place
the lettuce in iced water in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Make the salad dressing. Using the finest blade of a traditional grater, grate
the onion and garlic. Add to a mixing bowl and pour over the soy sauce and
mirin, mix well and set aside to infuse.

When ready to serve, remove the iceberg from the freezer and place it on a
long rectangular plate. Gently pour over the dressing so it penetrates between
the lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with bonito flakes and micro cress and serve.
Okonomiyaki Masquerading as Prawn
(Shrimp) Toast
This recipe is a great marriage of a Chinese classic with a
Japanese street food favourite. But why fiddle with a classic
and not use toasted bread, you might ask. Put simply, toast is
the devil’s food – its invention and popularity is a total mystery
to me! Prawn (shrimp) toast with this savoury twist – using
okonomiyaki pancakes packed with umami, egg and cabbage
as a substitute base for the prawn (shrimp) mixture – is
fantastic. Most Japanese stores carry okonomiyaki flour, which
mainly contains Japanese dried yam, powdered bonito flakes
and wheat flour, and comes in different flavour variations.
Watch out for MSG in the ingredients list, though. The
traditional okonomiyaki is served with Kewpie mayonnaise,
aonori and bonito flakes, and with a zigzag pattern of a sauce
similar to Worcestershire sauce.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

FOR THE PANCAKES

2 eggs
90g (31/4oz./1 cup) okonomiyaki flour
1/4 white cabbage, finely shredded
1 bunch of spring onions (scallions), cut into fine rings
grapeseed oil, for frying

FOR THE TOPPING

1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 thumb-size knob of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
150g (5oz.) raw, de-veined prawns (shrimp)
1 egg
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tbsp potato flour
40g (11/2oz./1/3 cup) white sesame seeds

3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce, for dipping

First make the okonomiyaki batter. Whisk the eggs until smooth, then add
125ml (1/2 cup) of cold water and the flour, and carry on whisking to create a
smooth batter. Add the cabbage and spring onions (scallions) and stir until all
ingredients are incorporated.

Heat a little grapeseed oil in a non-stick frying pan (skillet) and ladle in the
pancake batter. Make four pancakes and leave to cool on a wire rack.

Now make the prawn (shrimp) topping. Place the garlic and ginger in a food
processor with the prawns (shrimp), egg, soy sauce, sesame oil and potato
flour. Run the machine until a smooth paste forms, decant the paste into a
bowl and leave to firm up in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Cut each pancake into four and smear each piece on one side with the prawn
(shrimp) mixture. Pour the sesame seeds on to a plate and press the prawn
(shrimp) side of each piece into the seeds, ensuring the seeds stick to the
mixture.

Pour grapeseed oil into a shallow pan to about 2cm (3/4 in.) deep. Fry the
okonomiyaki ‘toast’ pieces in batches of four, prawn (shrimp) side down,
until light golden. Leave to drain on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel for a few
minutes, then serve with the sweet chilli dipping sauce.
Japanese cured mackerel – a Silla
classic
I learned how to cure mackerel on my first ‘cheffing’ trip to
Tokyo back in 1996. As part of sharing and spreading the gospel
of what an amazing fish mackerel is, I often teach students
how to prepare this in my Japanese cooking classes. Most are
bowled over by how smooth and delicate mackerel is after this
light cure. I must emphasize that only market-fresh mackerel
has the provenance that this curing technique demands.
In the next two recipes (shown here and here) we are using
cured mackerel sashimi-style. It is a common myth that
mackerel is eaten raw by the Japanese. Because this is a wild
and oily fish, the traditional preparation is to first salt and then
cure it to ensure any micro parasites are eliminated. Make sure
the mackerel is super fresh, preferably whole, with guts
removed. A basic rule is that fresh fish should not smell fishy, a
contradiction in terms, but very accurate as a fishy smell is in
fact the early stages of spoilage. The gills should be red and
spongy, and the eyes should be fresh-looking, like round glass
eyes. Ask your fishmonger to fillet the mackerel, or if you’d like
to do this yourself there is a step-by-step tutorial on my
website: sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial.
Mackerel is particularly good in the northern hemisphere
during September and October, after fattening up over the
summer ready for the winter, so is buttery and packed with
good omega 3 oil. Avoid mackerel in February and March when
it is the spawning season.

2 tbsp Genmai green tea (for the Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi), or 1 x

5cm (2in.) piece of kombu seaweed (for the Kombu-Cured Mackerel)
200ml (3/4 cup) sushi vinegar
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 large fresh mackerel (or 2 medium), filleted
flaky sea salt

To prepare the mackerel:

For the Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi, add the green tea to a cup and pour
over no more than 100ml (scant 1/2 cup) water at 85°C (185°F), leave to brew
for 4 minutes, then strain. For the Kombu-Cured Mackerel, wipe the kombu
clean with a damp cloth, being careful to not remove too much of the natural
sea salt.

In a jug, combine the sushi vinegar, green tea or kombu, and soy sauce and
set aside. Place the mackerel fillets in a shallow tray, flesh side up. Sprinkle
generously with sea salt, ensuring they are completely covered. Place in the
fridge and leave to cure for 20 minutes; this process will eliminate any micro
nasties and will also draw out water to firm up the flesh.

Remove from the fridge, rinse the fish under a gentle running cold water,
ensuring all the salt is removed. Place skin side up on a piece of kitchen
(paper) towel. Clean out the shallow tray and pour in the vinegar mixture,
place the mackerel in the tray skin side up, and leave to cure for 20 minutes at
room temperature or in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Remove the mackerel from the curing liquid and pin-bone each fillet; it is
easier to do this at this stage as the salting and curing will have softened the
bones. Place the fillets on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel, skin side up. It
helps to leave the fillets to rest for 3 hours before removing the outer skin;
this is not strictly necessary, but you will retain more of the beautiful silver
pattern if the mackerel has rested.
Place the fillets on a chopping board and, starting from the widest part of the
fillet, gently loosen the skin. When enough skin is loosened across the fillet,
peel it back from the whole fillet in one fast movement (like removing a
plaster from a child’s knee). Cut the mackerel in slices on the diagonal, about
2cm (3/4 in.) wide.
◁ Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi
Genmai tea is a version of Japanese green tea, containing
popped brown rice giving it a rich and roasted flavour, which
goes well with mackerel.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

2 cured mackerel fillets (shown here)

5g (1/6oz.) dried wakame seaweed
1 bulb of fennel
1 tbsp lemon juice
300g (101/2oz.) rocket (arugula) leaves
1/2 cucumber, halved lengthways, then sliced thinly on the diagonal
4 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
100g (31/2oz./2 cups) sprouts, such as alfalfa or sprouting chickpea

FOR THE DASHI DRESSING

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) liquid kombu dashi
80g (3oz.) ready mixed wasabi paste (or substitute some with a little
freshly grated wasabi)
80ml (1/3 cup) honey, preferably local
41/2 tbsp sesame oil

Prepare the mackerel fillets as described shown here; use any resting times to
prepare the other parts of the salad.

For the dressing, place all the ingredients in a food processor, whizz to an
even, smooth paste, and decant into a suitable bottle.

Place the wakame seaweed in 500ml (2 cups) ice-cold water. Cut the fennel
bulb in half and remove any bruised leaves, then use a Japanese mandoline to
carefully create ultra-thin slices. Place the slices in ice-cold water with the
lemon juice so as not to discolour.

Drain the wakame and fennel and add to a salad bowl with the rocket
(arugula), cucumber and spring onions (scallions). Dress well with a couple
of tablespoons of the dressing, then flake the mackerel on top. Drizzle over
another couple of tablespoons of dressing, scatter with the sprouts and the
salad is ready to eat. The remaining dressing will keep for up to 2 weeks in
the fridge; shake well before use.
◁ Kombu-Cured Mackerel with Mooli
(Daikon) and Courgette (Zucchini)
Mooli (daikon) is by far the most popular vegetable in Japanese
cuisine; it is a giant white radish and is eaten raw, poached or
as a pickle.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

2 cured mackerel fillets (shown here)

10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
1 yellow courgette (zucchini)
1 green courgette (zucchini)
pea shoots
shiso cress

FOR THE DRESSING

2 tbsp honey
1 tsp wasabi
1 tsp sushi vinegar
31/2 tbsp yuzu juice
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil

Prepare the mackerel fillets as described shown here.

Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate into discs on the finest setting of a Japanese
mandoline. Rinse the green and yellow courgettes (zucchini), then grate in
the same manner as the mooli (daikon). Take a large mixing bowl, add ice
and cold water and leave the mooli (daikon) and courgette (zucchini) to crisp
up in the fridge for 20 minutes.
Prepare the dressing. Mix the honey, wasabi and sushi vinegar in a jug until
incorporated, then add the yuzu and whisk well. Gradually add the olive oil,
whisking into a smooth dressing.

Drain the courgette (zucchini) and mooli (daikon), then transfer to a kitchen
(paper) towel and dab dry. Return to the mixing bowl and pour in half the
dressing, mixing well until all the vegetables are covered.

Cut the mackerel fillets into diamond-shaped pieces. Arrange the vegetable
discs on a round serving dish. Place the mackerel on top, drizzle the
remainder of the dressing on the mackerel and garnish with pea shoots and
shiso cress.
◁ Rice Wrapped in Banana Leaves
These wrapped rice parcels are made with banana leaves,
which are available from Chinese wholesalers. This recipe uses
chilli jam, but it could also be made with a teriyaki or tare
sauce.

SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

80ml (1/3 cup) Chilli Jam

1 portion Japanese Mountain Rice
1 pack fresh banana leaves

You will need: 8 small wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Make the chilli jam at least a day in advance, following the recipe shown
here.

Make a portion of Japanese mountain rice, following the recipe shown here.
1 Cut the banana leaves into large 30 x 30cm (12 x 12in.) squares. If the
robata grill is already on, grill the banana leaves for 20 seconds on each side.
Or do this in a large non-stick frying pan (skillet) on the hob (stove top) for
about 1 minute on each side, until softened and shiny.
2 Place the banana leaves shiny side down. Spread a teaspoon of chilli jam in
the middle of each leaf, in a 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) square.
3 Then add 100g (31/2oz.) of Japanese mountain rice to each one, moulded
into the same square shape.
4 Wrap each parcel, folding over the top and bottom, then fold in each side
and secure with a small skewer.

Place in a steamer for 10 minutes, until piping hot, and serve immediately.
Japanese Mountain Rice
I first tried this rice in a Japanese restaurant in Tokyo, with
smoked salmon belly on top. We asked the lovely waiter what
it was called and the answer was ‘Mountain Rice’ – this name
has stuck ever since, but it is basically a flavoured Japanese
rice.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

250g (9oz./11/4 cups) uncooked Japanese round grain rice

100g (31/2oz.) shimeji mushrooms
100g (31/2oz.) enoki mushrooms
4 small spring onions (scallions)
11/2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
10g (1/3oz.) mixed sesame seeds
2 shiso leaves or a handful of fresh mint leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the rice 4–5 times under cold running water, drain in a colander and
leave to rest for 30 minutes. Place the rice in a saucepan and add water –
about 15 per cent more water than the volume of rice. Bring to the boil and
leave to simmer for 17 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave to rest
for 17 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker.

Trim the ends of the shimeji and enoki mushrooms and cut the buds and
stems into 5mm (1/5in.) lengths. Keep the heads of the mushrooms intact.
Trim and peel the first layer of the spring onions (scallions), then chop into
fine rings.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) and gently fry the mushrooms until
soft. Add the garlic and spring onions (scallions) and fry for a further 2
minutes. Add the sesame seeds, and season to taste.

Mix the mushroom mixture into the rice, then roll up the shiso or mint leaves
into a cylinder and cut finely. Decant the rice into a large serving bowl and
serve with a selection of robata dishes.
New Potatoes with Uni Butter
Potatoes are not uncommon in Japan, but are mostly included
in dishes like katsu curry. As potatoes are such an essential part
of most variations of Western cuisine, I am including one of my
favourite umami-packed spuds. This recipe works well with
small earthy potatoes like Charlotte or Anya, freshly dug,
scraped clean with a small herb knife and served with the skin
on. Sea urchin, also called uni, is a spiky shellfish typically fished
from Japanese or Canadian waters. The shell is carefully cut
open with a pair of pointed scissors and the little tongue-sized
fillets are removed from the inside. These can be purchased
frozen as uni is not widely available, but you should find it in
Japanese specialist stores or online. The butter recipe here
makes a double portion, so freeze half to use on barbecued
meat or pasta. For an alternative to sea urchin, try 50g (2oz.) of
red miso paste.
SERVES 4–6 AS A SIDE DISH

500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) small new potatoes of your choice

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) unsalted butter
2 tbsp wasabi powder
30g (1oz.) sea urchin (uni)
1 tbsp finely chopped chives
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp yuzu juice (or lemon juice)
freshly ground white pepper
shiso leaves or mint, to garnish
Soak the potatoes in water for 5 minutes, then refresh the water and, using a
small herb knife, scrape away any dirt and loose skin, leaving a fine layer of
skin remaining on the potato. Rinse the potatoes a couple of times under cold
running water, then bring to the boil in a large pan of salty water and leave to
simmer until al dente.

While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the sea urchin butter. Place the
butter, wasabi, sea urchin, chives, soy sauce and yuzu juice in a food
processor and blend until incorporated. Season to taste with white pepper.
Divide into two portions, freeze one, and place the other in the fridge until
the potatoes are ready.

Drain the potatoes and give them a gentle shake in a colander to get rid of
any excess water, then place in a mixing bowl. Add the sea urchin butter, mix
well and pour into a serving bowl. Roll up the shiso leaves or mint, slice into
thin strips and scatter over the potatoes, then serve.
◁ Grilled Onigiri with Furikake
This is a great way to use up leftover rice. To work best, it has to
be white round grain rice, as used in Japanese cooking, so that
it sticks together. In this recipe, the onigiri is moulded like
lollipops and stuck on to the skewers.

SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

200g (7oz.) uncooked or 350g (121/2oz.) cooked rice

1 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp mirin
pinch of salt
pinch of white pepper
dash of rice vinegar
31/2 tbsp groundnut (peanut) oil
furikake, to garnish

You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Wash the rice four times, drain and leave to rest for 20 minutes. Place the rice
in a saucepan or rice cooker and add water – about 15 per cent more water
than the volume of rice. If cooking rice on the hob (stove top), bring the
water to the boil and let the rice simmer for 17 minutes, then leave to rest for
12 minutes.

Divide the rice into two equal-sized batches. Take one batch and divide into a
further four portions. In a pestle and mortar, mash the rice one portion at a
time, then transfer all the rice to a mixing bowl, add the yuzu and mirin and
season with the salt and pepper.

Have ready a bowl of cold water with the rice vinegar. Wet your hands and
dive in to the mix, incorporating the ingredients evenly with your fingers.
Mould the rice into eight equal-sized rectangular squares, ensuring it is
packed tight; keep your hands damp by occasionally dipping in the vinegar
water. Skewer each onigiri and leave to dry out a little on a chopping board.

Start the robata grill. When ready, brush the onigiri with oil, grill for a few
minutes on each side, rotate, and add more oil until the surface is nice and
crisp. Place the onigiri on a serving plate and sprinkle with furikake.

VARIATION:
For Crispy Onigiri with Balsamic, brush the onigiri with
balsamic vinegar in place of the groundnut (peanut) oil.
Portobello Mushrooms Stuffed with
Shimeji and Shiitake
Shiitake and Parmesan cheese both have a very high content
of natural umami. These savoury mushrooms are almost
‘meaty’ in their flavour, and are great as either a side dish or a
vegetarian option.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

4 large, very fresh Portobello mushrooms

2 fresh shiitake mushrooms
1/2 punnet shimeji mushrooms
1 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp mirin
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 ball of mozzarella cheese, torn into small pieces
3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Brush the Portobello and shiitake mushrooms clean with a brush and remove
and discard the stalks. Cut the shimeji mushroom buds, discarding the stalks
and base. Chop the shiitake mushrooms.

Place all the ingredients, except the Portobello mushrooms and sake-mirin
spray, in a mixing bowl, season with a little salt and pepper and stir to
combine.

Place the Portobello mushrooms on a plate with the top facing down. Divide
the stuffing mixture into four portions and stuff the mushrooms firmly. Set
aside.
Start the robata grill. When the coals are ready, cover them with a wire rack
and place the mushrooms over a less hot area of the grill, to allow the
mushrooms to cook slowly. Control the flames and keep the mushrooms
moist with the sake-mirin spray. Cook for 15–20 minutes, until the
mushrooms are cooked through and the filling is runny, then transfer to a
serving dish.
Nasu Deganku
This is a classic Japanese dish of miso-glazed aubergine
(eggplant). It is usually made using half an aubergine
(eggplant) as the serving vessel and cooked in the oven, but
here it has been deconstructed to create a robata version. It is
an utterly addictive dish and served in many Japanese eateries
across the globe. Newer versions of this dish cut the aubergine
(eggplant) into strips or chunks, some serve it with skin and
some without. The skin can be bitter, so in this recipe I have
done half and half, as the skin does help keep the shape of the
pieces but should not overpower the dish.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES

2 large aubergines (eggplants)

1/2 tbsp sea salt
100g (31/2oz.) miso paste
11/2 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
3 spring onions (scallions), cut into fine rings
2 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds

Trim the top of the aubergines (eggplants), then peel them vertically to create
a stripy pattern. Cut them into eight equal-sized pieces along the length and
season with sea salt. Set aside for 20 minutes.

Place the miso, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan, heat over a medium heat
and whisk to create a smooth glaze. Set aside. Soak the spring onion
(scallion) rings in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside.
Start the robata grill. When the aubergine (eggplant) slices have finished
salting, rinse in cold running water and leave to dry for 5 minutes in a
colander. Then dress the slices in the sesame oil. Place a wire rack over the
robata grill and start grilling the slices. They will take up to 10 minutes to
soften, but will need constant turning. When the aubergine (eggplant) is
grilled and soft, place on a rectangular serving plate and dress with the miso
glaze, sprinkle with sesame seeds and spring onions (scallions), and serve.
Goma Spinach
Eat your greens! Steamed spinach sprinkled with sesame seeds
and served with a smooth sesame dressing is a classic
appetizer or small side dish in Japanese cuisine. It is also one of
my favourites: it’s tasty and a good source of fibre and iron,
extremely high in vitamins K and A, and full of antioxidants.
The soy sauce can be replaced with tamari for a gluten-free
version.
SERVES 4

2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi

2kg (4lb. 8oz.) baby leaf spinach
100g (31/2oz.) sesame paste or tahini
4 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds

Bring approximately 3 litres (12 cups) of water to the boil in a large

saucepan, adding the liquid kombu dashi. Meanwhile, wash the baby spinach
leaves twice and give them a good spin in a salad spinner.

Add the baby spinach to the pan, ensuring it is fully submerged, and cook for
2 minutes, until just blanched. Drain in a colander and plunge into a bowl of
iced water, then leave to rest for 10 minutes, until cooled fully, giving the
spinach an occasional stir.

Drain the spinach in a colander and press against the sides to remove as much
water as possible. Divide into four portions, give a final squeeze to remove
any excess water, and mould into a ball shape. Place in the middle of a large
sheet of cling film (plastic wrap), lift all four corners of the cling film (plastic
wrap) and twist to make a tight ball. Leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes
(this can be done a day in advance).

For the dressing, add the sesame paste, soy sauce, honey and 2 tablespoons of
water to a food processor and blend for a few minutes until smooth. Pour into
the base of four serving bowls.

To serve, steam the spinach in a steamer for 3–4 minutes, until heated
through, then place one ball of spinach in each bowl and sprinkle with the
sesame seeds.
Okra Robata
Okra fares very well on the robata grill; pierce it a few times and
marinate for a short time to add a wonderful flavour.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8

500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) medium to large okra

3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp mirin
3 tbsp sake
1 tbsp potato flour
1 tbsp black sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water

Wash the okra in cold water and leave to drain in a colander. Combine the
soy sauce, mirin and sake together in a bowl. Pierce each okra with a pointy
knife; it just needs to be a small straight cut along the okra, no more than
5mm ( 1/5in.), to let out steam. Add to the bowl and leave the okra to
marinate for 20 minutes.

Start the robata grill. Place a colander over a saucepan and drain the okra,
reserving the marinade. Heat the leftover marinade to just below boiling
point. Dilute the potato flour with a little cold water, adding a little at a time
to the marinade, mixing to incorporate. You may not need it all; you want a
silky-smooth consistency no thicker than the texture of double (heavy) cream.
Set aside.

Thread the okra on to the skewers, around five per portion held on two
skewers.
When the robata grill is ready, place a wire rack over the coals. Brush the
rack with a little vegetable oil and grill the okra skewers until slightly
charred, rotating a few times and spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin
spray. These grill very fast, so cook them just before serving, while the other
dishes are resting.

Stack on a serving platter, drizzle over the sauce and sprinkle with the seeds.
◁ Aonori Flatbread
Originally inspired by the Indian flatbread paratha, I have
added a twist to these using buckwheat flour and aonori.
Aonori is a green powdered seaweed typically used in
okonomiyaki, tempura batter or on sumo fries. It adds a certain
umami and crispiness when incorporated into a dish.

MAKES 16

150g (5oz.) buckwheat flour

150g (5oz.) 00 flour, plus extra for dusting
75g (21/2oz./2/3cup) cornmeal
75ml (5 tbsp) soured cream
75ml (5 tbsp) boiling water
80g (3oz./1/3 cup) unsalted butter, melted
20g (3/4oz.) aonori seaweed in a shaker
sunflower oil, for frying

To make the dough, combine all three flours in a mixing bowl, create a well
in the middle and add the soured cream and boiling water. Mix in the liquids
with a fork until all are incorporated, then knead for about 10 minutes, until
the dough is smooth. Let the dough rest, covered with cling (plastic wrap),
for at least 1 hour.

Divide the dough into 16 equal-sized portions and shape into round balls.
Dust a work surface with flour and roll one ball at a time into a disc shape
(slightly larger than a CD). Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with
aonori, roll into a tight cylinder, then coil into a snail shape. Dust the work
surface again and roll out again to a disc shape, about 5mm ( 1/5in.) thick,
then stack in a pile with baking parchment in between the layers. Repeat the
process until all 16 are done.
Heat a little sunflower oil in a small frying pan (skillet) and fry the flatbreads
until golden on each side. Place on baking parchment and repeat the process
until all breads are cooked. These can be done in a frying pan (skillet) over
coals if you are using bincho, as these stay hot for so long that it’s worth
getting maximum usage.

Keep warm in the oven at 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) until just before
serving. These breads freeze well before frying, so if 16 seems too many for
your party, hold some back for future barbecues.
Chilli Jam
This chilli jam has been in my repertoire for decades. It is slow
cooked in the oven instead of on the hob (stove top), as I find it
easier to control and less likely to burn. This recipe makes
plenty, so you can give some to your nearest and dearest as the
perfect little gift. This chilli jam has many uses beyond this
book, and is a proper store cupboard gem, free of preservatives
and MSG, unlike most shop-bought brands.

400g (14oz.) red chillies

100g (31/2oz.) bird’s eye (Thai) chillies
2 large white Spanish onions, peeled and chopped into rough chunks
20 cloves of garlic
300ml (11/4 cups) sunflower oil
30g (1oz./1/4 cup) flaky sea salt
1/2 pack tamarind pulp (about 150g/5oz.)
500g (1lb. 11/2oz./21/2 cups) light demerara (raw brown) sugar
31/2 tbsp Kikkoman soy sauce

You will need: several preserving jars. To sterilize, wash in soapy water, rinse with
boiling water and leave to dry upside down on a clean tea (dish) towel. Then
place the cleaned and rinsed jars in the oven at 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) for
30 minutes. If not sterilizing in the oven, add a shot of white alcohol (vodka, gin
or rum) to the cleaned jar, close and give the jar a good swirl.

Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas mark 3).

Remove and discard the stalks from the red chillies and cut in half. Nip the
tops off the bird’s eye (Thai) chillies. Working in batches, place a mixture of
the two chillies, the onion and garlic in a food processer, add a generous
helping of the sunflower oil, and run the machine until you have a chunky
paste. Pour into an ovenproof metal tray and repeat until all the ingredients
have been used. Top up the tray with the remainder of the oil and sprinkle
over the sea salt, then stir the mixture and cover tightly with a sheet of foil.
Place in the oven and cook for 1 hour, returning after 30 minutes to give the
mixture a good stir, ensuring it does not stick to the sides.

Reduce the oven temperature to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) and cook for a
further 5 hours, until dark red and soft. Just before the 5 hours are up, place
the tamarind pulp in a bowl, pour over boiling water and leave to soften for
about 20 minutes.

Remove the chilli mixture from the oven and pour into a heavy-based
saucepan. Place the pan over a low heat and stir in the sugar and soy sauce.
Strain the tamarind through a sieve, pressing the pulp against the sides of the
metal mesh, then add the liquid to the chilli mixture and stir well. Cook the
jam for 30–40 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes to ensure the mixture does
not burn, then leave to cool, covered, on the hob (stove top). Once cool,
decant the jam into the sterilized jars, then store in a cold place for up to 6
months.
Kappa Pickles
One of the most widely used pickles in Japan, these are often
served as a small appetizer. In Japan, small cucumbers are
used for this dish; the best option in the UK is to use Lebanese
cucumbers. I use sushi vinegar for the pickles as this is sweet
already and gives a smoother result than adding sugar to rice
vinegar. These keep well in the fridge in a sterilized jar for up to
two weeks.

6 small cucumbers
2 tbsp sea salt
small piece of fresh horseradish
2 dried chillies
5 Sichuan peppercorns
2 tbsp white sesame seeds
400–450ml (13/4–scant 2 cups) sushi vinegar

You will need: a clean, dry, sterilized jar (see opposite)

Cut the cucumbers into 2cm (3/4 in.) thick discs, place in a mixing bowl and
dress in salt. Leave to cure for 15 minutes, then rinse well in cold water and
leave to dry in a colander.

Place the cucumber in the pickling jar. Prepare two pieces of horseradish,
preferably the length of the jar, cut into 5 x 5mm (1/5 x 1/5in.) batons and
place inside the jar. Add the chillies, peppercorns and sesame seeds. Close
the jar and shake well to ensure the flavourings are distributed through the
jar.

Open the jar and pour over the vinegar. Place the jar upside down for 10
minutes, then top up further with vinegar to ensure the cucumbers are fully
submerged.

Remove a small portion of pickles from the jar at a time and serve as an
appetizer or to complement robata dishes.
Red Onion Pickles
These turn fluorescent red in their vinegar and are a great
accompaniment to fatty meats, providing a tart counter-
balance. I use sushi vinegar, as the sweet and sourness is pre-
blended for best results.

2 medium red onions

200–300ml (3/4–11/4 cups) sushi vinegar
small 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) piece of kombu

Cut the red onions in half, then slice finely along the grain. Place in a mixing
bowl and pour over the sushi vinegar so the onion is just covered. Wipe clean
the kombu with a damp cloth and add to the liquid. Leave to pickle for 1
hour, and serve with robata or in salads.
Japanese Mayonnaise
This is a yuzu mayonnaise and has been with me for twenty
years. Make sure the eggs are fresh and free-range accredited
eggs.

100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil

200ml (3/4 cup) grapeseed oil
1 whole egg, plus 2 free-range egg yolks
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 tbsp sushi vinegar
1 tbsp yuzu juice

Combine the two oils in a jug. Place the egg, egg yolks, sugar, sushi vinegar
and yuzu in the bowl of a stand mixer and run until light and airy. Gradually
pour the oils into the machine until you have a light yellow, shiny, smooth
mayonnaise. Decant into a squeezy bottle or small container and keep for up
to 7 days in the fridge.
 desserts+drinks
Traditionally, desserts are not really eaten in Japan, with the
exception of mochi, a pounded rice dough with a delicious red
bean or matcha filling. Matcha, the concentrated green tea
powder used in the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, is an
antioxidant super-charger, great in desserts, drinks, cocktails
and juices. Matcha works particularly well with dark chocolate
for a slightly bitter and impactful flavour profile.
Sencha green tea accompanies most meals in Japan, jam-
packed with antioxidants and good caffeine. Green tea is best
brewed at 85°C (185°F) from good-quality leaves. Make sure you
choose a brand with a good fresh flavour, high antioxidant
content and no added sugars.
Sake is a wonderful drink and finally gaining real
momentum outside of Japan. I am particularly fond of Junmai
Daiginjo-shu, the queen of sake, made with at least 50 per cent
polished rice, water and koji, producing a purer, smoother
taste.
The cocktails in this book all have a grown-up feel and use
key Japanese ingredients, combining sake with quality spirits. I
prefer to use agave syrup, as it is gentler on the alcohol and not
overly sweet.
◁ Drunken Pineapple
This is an old-school classic, served to the Courts across Europe
through the centuries. In this recipe it is given an Asian twist.
Here served by itself, for a more substantial dessert, serve with
the Miso Ice Cream.

SERVES 4

1 ripe pineapple
125ml (1/2 cup) Sochu plum wine
250ml (1 cup) Caribbean rum
4 tbsp honey
2 tbsp mirin
2 star anise
4 shiso leaves
Sake-Mirin Spray

Trim the pineapple, removing all outer skin, then cut into quarters, remove
the core and place in a shallow container. Mix all the other ingredients in a
bowl, ensuring the honey is dissolved in the liquid. Pour over the pineapple
and leave to marinate in a cool place for up to 2 hours; if the pineapple is not
fully submerged in liquid, make sure you rotate it a few times during the
marinating.

About 20 minutes before the pineapple is ready, start the robata grill. If using
the robata for other dishes beforehand, make sure you scrub the wire rack
with a wire brush so as not to get any meat or fish flavours on to the
pineapple.

Remove the pineapple from its marinade and place it on the wire rack. Grill
for a few minutes on each of the three sides, then rotate. When all pieces are
sealed, start basting the pineapple in the leftover marinade. This dish will take
up to 20 minutes to cook to soft, repeatedly re-basting with the marinade to
build up a golden caramelization. You will need to work fast to ensure the
fruit does not burn – use sake-mirin spray to control any flare ups. Serve
immediately on a shiso leaf with a little of the leftover marinade.
◁Grilled Stone Fruit with Miso Ice
Cream
The miso ice cream in this dish is sweet and savoury. The recipe
makes a little over 1 litre (4 cups), so either halve the quantities
for this dessert, or keep the ice cream for future dinners, but
eat within a month of freezing.
SERVES 4

6 large free-range egg yolks

150g (5oz./3/4 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
300ml (11/4 cups) single (light) cream
600ml (21/2 cups) double (heavy) cream
300g (101/2oz.) sweet miso
4 medium ripe peaches or 6 medium ripe plums
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) Japanese plum wine
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray

First make the custard for the ice cream. Place the egg yolks in a stand mixer
with the sugar, and whisk until light and fluffy. Meanwhile, place the two
creams in a heavy-based saucepan and heat to just before boiling point, then
remove from the heat to cool for a few minutes.

Pour a little of the cream into the egg yolk mixture and mix until
incorporated. Now pour all of the egg mixture into the remaining cream in
the pan, place over a medium heat and whisk well. Heat through until it
reaches 74°C (165°F). I prefer the reassurance of a thermometer to ensure the
custard does not curdle, but if you do not have one you can also use a wooden
spoon: dip the spoon into the custard, and draw a line through the custard
with the spoon; when the line remains in place, the custard has reached the
correct temperature. Remove from the heat and pour into a mixing bowl to
stop the cooking.

In another bowl, place the sweet miso and add about 200ml (3/4 cup) of the
custard, whisk until smooth, then return to the bowl with the remaining
custard.

If using an ice cream maker, cool the mixture in the fridge for 1 hour. Then
place in the ice cream maker in two batches, decanting them into a freezer-
proof container when they are the consistency of soft ice. If freezing straight
away, place in a suitable container and return every 20 minutes, 4–5 times, to
whisk the mixture. Leave in the freezer for 2–3 hours before serving.

Cut the fruit in half and remove the stones. With the tip of a knife, score the
fruit so the plum wine can penetrate. Pour the plum wine into a dish, place
the fruit flesh side down in the dish and leave to soak up the alcohol for about
30 minutes.

Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack over the coals and brush with oil.
Place the fruit on the grill, flesh side down, and grill until the fruit is soft and
the flesh slightly charred. Use the sake-mirin spray to aid grilling. Place the
fruit in small serving bowls with a scoop of the miso ice cream alongside.
◁ Toasted Bincho Dust Marshmallows
I have never really understood shop-bought marshmallows; I
find them stale and boring. But I have had a lot of fun playing
around with homemade versions, and with my children I have
been through a full repertoire of recipes and flavours. For the
binchotan theme I am adding the contents of activated
charcoal capsules, available from healthfood stores. Other
great Japanese-inspired flavours include candied yuzu and
matcha with vanilla.
MAKES 18 | PLENTY FOR 10 PEOPLE

7 sheets of gelatine
275g (93/4oz/11/3 cups) caster (superfine) sugar
140g (14oz.) golden (light corn) syrup
10 activated charcoal capsules
50g (13/4oz) icing (powdered) sugar
50g (13/4oz) cornflour (cornstarch)
vegetable oil spray

You will need: 20 x 30cm (8 x 12in.) baking tray and 21 long, round wooden
skewers soaked in water for 30 minutes

Start this recipe a day in advance. Soak the gelatine in plenty of water and oil
the baking tray with the vegetable oil spray.

Melt the sugar and golden (light corn) syrup in a heavy-based saucepan with
80ml (1/3 cup) water; place a jam thermometer inside the pan and keep a
watchful eye on it until the sugar mixture reaches 122°C (250°F). Meanwhile,
squeeze out the soaked gelatine sheets and place them in a bowl set over a
pan of simmering water, stirring gently until melted.
Place the melted gelatine into the bowl of a stand mixer and start whisking
while waiting for the sugar to reach the stipulated temperature. When the
sugar is ready, decant it into a metal jug and gently add to the bowl of the
stand mixer in a thin drizzle down the side. Ensure the mixer is on full speed
and leave to churn until the mixture thickens into a sticky, smooth mass.
While the machine is running, cut open the charcoal capsules and carefully
pour the contents into a small bowl. Add the charcoal dust to the sugar
mixture and keep the machine running until everything is incorporated. Pour
into the baking tray, smooth over with a warm palette knife and leave to stand
for 24 hours.

On the day of cooking, combine the icing (powdered) sugar with the
cornflour (cornstarch) in a bowl. Place a piece of baking parchment on a large
chopping board, then turn out the marshmallow. Cut it twice horizontally to
create three equal blocks, then cut six times vertically to create 18 pieces in
total. Clean and dry the baking tray, then add the icing (powdered) sugar
mixture. Roll 4–5 pieces of marshmallows in the mixture at a time until fully
coated, then thread on to the wooden skewers and place on a tray. Repeat
until all the marshmallows are done. Cover with a clean tea (dish) towel and
set aside.

When ready for dessert, invite your guests to toast their own marshmallows
over the bincho coals until soft and warm. Eat immediately.

VARIATION:
For a yuzu version, add 11/2 tbsp yuzu juice to the sugar mixture
in place of the charcoal capsules. Before pouring the mixture
into the tray to set, chop 50g (2oz.) candied yuzu (available
online or in specialist stores) and spread in the base of the tray.
For a matcha version, sift 1 tbsp matcha powder into the sugar
mixture in place of the charcoal capsules.
◁Yuzu Almond Cake with Sesame
Brittle
I have a total obsession with yuzu. My good friend Vicente
Todolí grows these on his citrus farm in Valencia (shown here).
Vicente also has the most stunning kaki tree, the Japanese
version of persimmon fruit, so here it is perfectly matched with
yuzu as a tribute to a truly foodie friend.
SERVES 8

FOR THE CAKE

300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) caster (superfine) sugar
300g (101/2oz./11/3 cups) unsalted softened butter, plus extra for greasing
300g (101/2oz./21/2 cups) ground almonds
4 large free-range eggs
110g (4oz./1 cup) polenta (cornmeal)
grated zest of 2 yuzu or Sicilian lemons
1 tsp baking powder
pinch of sea salt
80ml (1/3 cup) unsalted yuzu juice

FOR THE SESAME BRITTLE

100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
20g (3/4oz.) toasted white sesame seeds

FOR THE PLUM WINE SABAYON

4 large egg yolks
50g (13/4oz./1/4 cup) caster sugar
80ml (1/3 cup) Japanese plum wine
pinch of salt
120ml (1/2 cup) double (heavy) cream

2 kaki fruit

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas mark 5), and line and grease a 30cm
(12in.) round cake tin (pan). In a stand mixer, beat the sugar and butter until
light and fluffy. Stir in the ground almonds, followed by one egg at a time.
Combine the polenta (cornmeal) with the yuzu or lemon zest, baking powder
and sea salt in a bowl. Fold into the butter mixture, pour in the yuzu juice and
fold again until everything is evenly incorporated. Transfer to the cake tin
(pan) and bake for 35 minutes. Then cover the cake with a piece of tin foil
and cook for a further 10–15 minutes, until baked through. Use a skewer to
check the centre of the cake; the cake is ready when there is no mixture
sticking to the skewer.

For the sesame brittle, melt the sugar in a small saucepan to create a caramel.
As the sugar melts, tip the saucepan from side to side, avoiding using a
spoon. When all the sugar has turned to a caramel, pour onto a silicone sheet
and leave to set.

To make the plum sabayon, place the egg yolks, sugar, plum wine and salt
into a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, whisking until thickened,
about 8–10 minutes. Take off the heat and stir occasionally to cool. In a
separate bowl, whip the cream into thick peaks. When the egg mixture is
lukewarm, mix in the cream and leave in the fridge to chill for at least 45
minutes, or up to 2 hours.

Take the cake out of the oven to cool in the tin (pan) for 10 minutes before
transferring from the tin (pan) to a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before
removing the baking parchment. Leave the oven on for the sesame brittle.

Place the caramel in a food processer and process until it is the consistency of
sand granules. Place the silicone sheet on a baking sheet, then spread the
caramel dust evenly on it and place the baking sheet in the oven for about 20
minutes, until the caramel dust has melted again. Remove from the oven and
carefully lift the silicone sheet, holding it so that the mixture runs to the edges
of the sheet and is spread as thinly as possible. Then place flat on a work
surface and sprinkle with the sesame seeds and leave to set. When cool,
shatter into large shards.

Place two ultra-thin slices of kaki fruit on each plate, then add a spoonful of
plum wine sabayon. Add a slice of yuzu cake and decorate with shards of
sesame brittle.
◁ Matcha Chocolate Truffles
As mentioned in the introduction to this chapter, traditional
Japanese desserts are non-existent, with the exception of
mochi, which to many is an acquired taste. However, like the
French, I do favour something sweet after a satisfying meal,
and am quite happy with something small and grown-up in its
taste profile, so these matcha truffles fit the bill. Ideally, try and
track down superior-quality, ethically sourced matcha powder
for use in this recipe.
MAKES 20 | PLENTY FOR 10 PEOPLE

120ml (1/2 cup) double (heavy) cream

3 tbsp maple syrup
1 tbsp soft brown sugar
11/2 tbsp matcha powder
170g (6oz.) best-quality 85% dark chocolate, broken into chunks

Line a baking tray with baking parchment. In a small heavy-based saucepan,

heat the double (heavy) cream until simmering, then add the maple syrup and
brown sugar. Add 1 tablespoon of matcha powder, sifting it straight into the
mixture and stirring until fully incorporated, then remove from the heat.

Place the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water and heat
until melted, then gently stir in the cream mixture with a wooden spoon.
Decant into the baking tray and place in the fridge for 45 minutes.

Take the chocolate mixture out of the fridge. Sift the remaining matcha
powder over a large plate. With a teaspoon, scrape across the chocolate,
moulding it into little nuggets – these can be quite rough around the edges –
and roll in the matcha powder. Serve with a cup of freshly brewed sencha
green tea.
Kombu Sour
A Pisco Sour is one of my favourite cocktails of all time: light,
refreshing, and the egg white means I can happily have an
extra one – it is high in protein, is it not?

1 free-range egg white

30ml (2 tbsp) Bols Genever
30ml (2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
juice of 1/2 lime
11/2 tbsp kombu liquid (see below)

FOR THE KOMBU LIQUID

45g dried kombu/kelp
31/2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

To make the kombu liquid, soak the kombu overnight in plenty of water, then
drain and blend with the sesame oil, soy sauce and sugar. Decant into a
sterilized bottle and keep for up to 1 month.

To mix the cocktail, place the egg white in a cocktail shaker, add the Bols
Genever, sake, lime juice and kombu liquid, then shake well until the egg
whites thicken. Add four ice cubes to the mixture, then strain the mixture into
a thick-based rounded glass.
Bincho on the Rocks
This cocktail uses activated charcoal as an ingredient. Ironically,
activated charcoal is prescribed for detoxification purposes, as
a liver cleanse, but please be aware that its addition to this
cocktail does not counteract the impact of the alcohol! These
are delicious and beautiful nonetheless, and great for a
binchotan theme.

6 activated charcoal capsules

20ml (11/2 tbsp) good-quality vodka
30ml (2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
2 tbsp agave syrup
2 tsp yuzu juice

Cut open the charcoal capsules and place in a cocktail shaker. Place one large
ice cube in a thick-based glass.

Add the remainder of the ingredients to the cocktail shaker, shake, then strain
over the ice and serve.
Canton Hibiscus Tea Royale
To create the sugar syrup for my twist on Kir Royale, I have used
a green tea infused with berry and hibiscus – light and
delicious. The same syrup also works perfectly as a cordial or as
a non-alcoholic choice.

6 berry and hibiscus tea bags

2 green tea bags
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) agave syrup
1 x 75cl bottle chilled prosecco

Make the syrup first. In a saucepan, gently boil the tea bags in 200ml (3/4
cup) of water for 15 minutes, until the liquid is well infused. Discard the tea
bags and add the agave syrup, cook for a few more minutes, then leave to
cool. Decant into a small squeezy bottle.

To serve, squeeze about 1 tablespoon of syrup into the base of a champagne

glass, pour over ice-cold prosecco, then stir and serve immediately.
Lotus Blossom Martini with Lotus Root
Caramel
I love martinis, but often find them overly sweet; here the
sweetness is on the side with a caramel lotus crisp.

1 tsp light demerara (raw brown) sugar

3 lotus nuts (canned)
3 shiso leaves (or small handful of mint leaves if not available)
20ml (11/2 tbsp) good-quality vodka
20ml (11/2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake

FOR THE LOTUS ROOT CARAMEL

1 fresh lotus root, peeled
31/2 tbsp mirin
200g (7oz./1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
10g (1/3oz.) toasted white sesame seeds

Prepare the lotus root: peel the lotus root and slice on a Japanese mandoline
into 3mm discs. Soak the discs in water for 30 minutes, then discard the
water and place the discs in a saucepan with 150ml (2/3 cup) fresh water. Add
the mirin and simmer for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Drain the lotus root, place
on a silicone-lined baking sheet, and dry in the oven for 1 hour. Once dry,
melt the sugar in a saucepan to create a caramel, coat the lotus root discs in
the caramel and place on a wire rack to dry. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds
and store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Muddle the sugar, lotus nuts and shiso together in a bowl to release the
aromas, then pour over the vodka and sake, mix on ice and strain into a
martini or tall glass, garnished with a lotus caramel.
Index
A
agadashi: chilled tofu agadashi 161
robata tofu agadashi 100
almonds: yuzu almond cake 214
asparagus: asparagus pickles 84
asparagus namban 148
asparagus with sea salt 148
asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and mangetout (snow peas) 175
aubergines (eggplant): nasu deganku 194

B
bacon-wrapped robata lollies 118
banana leaves, rice wrapped in 188
beef: asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
beef tataki 94
cubed sirloin with chilli butter 75
Porterhouse steak with uni butter 96
rib eye with wasabi 126
rump steak with mooli (daikon) and kombu dashi 127
beetroot (beet) pickles, golden 114
bincho on the rocks 220
binchotan 10, 11
brittle, sesame 214
buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
butters: chilli butter 75
miso butter 30
seaweed butter 131
uni butter 96, 191
C
cabbage, ‘addictive’ 109
cake, yuzu almond 214
Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
carrots: early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and mangetout (snow peas)
175
robata baby carrot 83
chicken: chicken drumettes with coriander (cilantro) pesto 78
chicken skin yakitori 110
chicken tskune 108
chicken wings with ‘addictive cabbage’ 109
negima yakitori 108
teriyaki chicken breasts 113
whole miso-marinated baby chicken 76
yuzu chicken 80
chicken hearts 112
Chilean sea bass with choy sum and onion relish 40
chillies: chilli butter 75
chilli jam 202
chocolate truffles, matcha 217
choy sum, Chilean sea bass with 40
cod: miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
coffee sauce, duck breasts 144
cooking times 23
coriander (cilantro) pesto dipping sauce 78
courgettes (zucchini), kombu-cured mackerel with mooli (daikon) and 186
crab: fresh crab taramasalata 157
soft-shell crab on Devon crab rice 68
crisps, lotus 157
cuttlefish 143

D
dashi: dashi pickles 142
dashi sweet mash 83
 heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
kombu dashi 127
smooth wasabi dashi dressing 172
drinks 218
drunken pineapple 206
duck: duck breast with dashi sweet mash and robata baby carrot 83
duck breasts with coffee sauce 144
teriyaki duck with asparagus pickles 84

E
edamame with sea salt, steamed/grilled 162

F
faux unagi – herring kabayaki style 134
fish 26
see also cod; salmon, etc
flatbread, aonori 200
fruit: grilled stone fruit with miso ice cream 208
furikake 20
grilled onigiri with furikake 192

G
garlic mayo 178
genmai-cured mackerel sashimi 184
goma spinach 195
green beans: green beans and sugar snap peas in mustard miso 172
Japanese green bean salad 168

H
herb-cured tofu on soba noodles 170
herring kabayaki style 134
hibiki, Japanese slaw with garlic mayo and 178
hibiscus tea: Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
I
ice cream, miso 208
ingredients 16

J
jam, chilli 202
Japanese cured mackerel 182
Japanese green bean salad 168
Japanese mayonnaise 203
Japanese mountain rice 190
Japanese slaws 178
Japanese yam potato 74

K
kappa pickles 203
kimchi 21
squash kimchi 38
kombu 20
kombu-cured mackerel 186
kombu dashi 21, 127
kombu sour 220

L
lamb: butterflied red miso lamb 92
lamb ribs with shiso 90
miso lamb chops 75
leeks: charred leeks with spicy dip 91
lemon sole with Sancho pepper and squash kimchi 38
lettuce: chilled iceberg with red onion soy 180
grilled baby gem with miso and honey 162
lobster with yuzu drizzle 66
lotus root: lotus root caramel 221
lotus crisps 157
M
mackerel: genmai-cured mackerel sashimi 184
Japanese cured mackerel a Silla classic 182
kombu-cured mackerel 186
teriyaki mackerel 31
mangetout (snow peas), early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and 175
marshmallows, toasted bincho dust 212
martini, lotus blossom 221
matcha chocolate truffles 217
mayonnaise: garlic mayo 178
Japanese mayonnaise 203
miso 16, 21
black miso tofu 102
butterflied red miso lamb 92
miso and honey dip 162
miso butter 30
miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
miso ice cream 208
miso lamb chops 75
miso salt 124
miso soup 156
mustard miso 172
pork belly yuzu miso 116
whole miso-marinated baby chicken 76
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
mooli (daikon): kombu-cured mackerel with mooli (daikon) 186
rump steak with mooli (daikon) and kombu dashi 127
mushrooms: Japanese mountain rice 190
Portobello mushrooms stuffed with shimeji and shiitake 193
mussels: large blue rope mussels with miso butter 30
lemongrass-poached mussels 155

N
namban, asparagus 148
nasu deganku 194
negima yakitori 108
negishio, salmon 131
noodles, herb-cured tofu on soba 170

O
octopus and dashi pickles 142
okonomiyaki masquerading as prawn (shrimp) toast 181
okra: okra robata 197
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
onigiri: grilled onigiri with furikake 192
onions: chilled iceberg with red onion soy 180
onion relish 40
red onion pickles 203

P
papaya: buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
pesto, coriander (cilantro) 78
pickles: asparagus pickles 84
dashi pickles 142
golden beetroot (beet) pickles 114
kappa pickles 203
red onion pickles 203
summer pickles 36
pineapple, drunken 206
pork: baby back pork ribs 86
pork belly yuzu miso 116
pork tskune with golden beetroot (beet) pickles 114
potatoes: new potatoes with uni butter 191
poussin: butterflied poussin with yuzu honey glaze 74
prawns (shrimp): king prawns (shrimp) 130
okonomiyaki masquerading as prawn (shrimp) toast 181
shiso-marinated giant prawns (shrimp) 33
prosecco: Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
 Q
quinoa: robata garden in quinoa soil 99
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176

R
relish, onion 40
rice: baby squid stuffed with mountain rice 138
grilled onigiri with furikake 192
Japanese mountain rice 190
rice wrapped in banana leaves 188
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
soft-shell crab on Devon crab rice 68
robata: history of 8
how to cook 10
how to enjoy 24

S
sake 21, 23
giant scallop sake poached in shell 62
lotus blossom martini 221
salads: buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
early summer salad 175
heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
Japanese green bean salad 168
Japanese slaws 178
paper-thin seasonal salad 177
seaweed salad 172
summer salad 176
salmon: heavenly salmon 5 ways 56
miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
salmon negishio 131
salmon smoked on yuzu leaves 54
salmon tataki in nori crust 32
 smoked and robata’ed salmon belly 46
sourcing 22
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
salsa verde 58
sardines Japanese-style 136
sashimi, genmai-cured mackerel 184
sauces and marinades 23
scallops: giant scallop sake poached in shell 62
scallops with seaweed butter 131
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
sea bass: Chilean sea bass with choy sum and onion relish 40
sea bream fillet with seasonal pickles 36
sea trout, cured and robata’ed 48
seaweed 20
aonori flatbread 200
seaweed butter 131
seaweed salad 172
seeds: seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
sesame brittle 214
shishito (padron) peppers 157
shiso: lamb ribs with shiso 90
shiso-marinated giant prawns (shrimp) 33
skewers 104
soup, miso 156
soy sauce 21
red onion soy 180
spinach, goma 195
squash kimchi 38
squid: baby squid stuffed with mountain rice 138
sugar snap peas: green beans and sugar snap peas in mustard miso 172
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
sweet potatoes: dashi sweet mash 83

T
taramasalata, fresh crab 157
tare sauce 23
tataki: beef tataki 94
salmon tataki 32
tuna tataki 58
teriyaki: teriyaki chicken breasts 113
teriyaki duck with asparagus and pickles 84
teriyaki mackerel 31
tofu: black miso tofu 102
buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
chilled tofu agadashi 161
herb-cured tofu on soba noodles 170
Japanese green bean salad with crispy tofu 168
panko-crusted yuzu tofu 154
robata tofu agadashi 100
tofu lollies with 3 toppings 146
tomatoes: heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
tools 14
truffles, matcha chocolate 217
tskune: asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
chicken tskune 108
pork tskune 114
tuna tataki with salsa verde 58
turnips: baby turnips with miso salt 124

V
vodka: bincho on the rocks 220
lotus blossom martini 221

W
wakame 20
heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
wasabi 17, 20
 rib eye with wasabi 126
smooth wasabi dashi dressing 172

Y
yakitori 104
yam potatoes, Japanese 74
yuzu 16, 21
butterflied poussin with yuzu honey glaze 74
lobster with yuzu drizzle 66
panko-crusted yuzu tofu 154
pork belly yuzu miso 116
salmon smoked on yuzu leaves 54
yuzu almond cake 214
yuzu chicken 80
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
yuzu vinaigrette 178
 Acknowledgements
Firstly, Heather Holden-Brown, my literary agent, has been
forever supportive, and has given great guidance
throughout this project. I would like to thank Jacqui Small
for publishing the book; her immense knowledge and
guidance has taken the book in a great direction. And to the
rest of the team at Jacqui Small who have worked on this
book with me: Fritha Saunders, my commissioning editor,
for shaping the book and getting the myriad of recipes in
the right order and format; Penny Stock, for her calm and
collected approach and great design; Lucy Harvey, for
sourcing very special props, and an extended thank you to
Victoria Allen for the stunning props from Props Ltd;
Rachel Malig, for her support, patience and persistence in
editing and unravelling the text; and to the amazing Keiko
Oikawa for the stunning photography – her talent and
special eye for light and detail is second to none.
On a personal front, to my husband David Wright, for
his support and ruthless (but loving) criticism. To my
children, Sugar Ray and Mia Ray, for happily tucking in,
trying new foods and giving constructive feedback. To my
sister, Trine Hahnemann, for moral support and for sharing
her network. To local friends, growers, colleagues and
foodies Donna Freed and Hiromi Frateantonio for their
support and gung-ho attitude to life – anything is possible,
come rain or shine. To Vicente Todoli and all his associates
for the citrus, oil, dinners and company through the
seasons, a truly inspiring bunch who always inject sunshine
and thirst for a creative life.
A big thank you to all my key suppliers who have
supported me with this book. As Jeremy Rose, my business
partner for many years when we were running our sushi
empire, used to say: ‘You are only as good as your
suppliers.’ They are: Jon Old and the rest of the team at
The Real Wasabi Company, for their vision in growing this
amazing Japanese ingredient in the UK
(thewasabicompany.co.uk); Jennifer Wood, the finest tea
connoisseur in the land, tracking mountain high and valley
low for the finest-quality teas, always sharing and inspiring
(cantonteaco.com); Juliet and Guy Grieve at The Ethical
Shellfish Company on the Isle of Mull, for the most
fantastic, succulent, sweet, and by far the most sustainable
scallops (ethicalshellfishcompany.co.uk); Manami and the
team at Tombo Tea for the beautiful matcha; Bruce Ward
from Shields, the most caring fish merchant in London,
sharing knowledge and tricks of the trade freely; Shaun and
Alan Henderson for the great sweet crab meat and local
lobster (and a great annual crab festival); CJ Jackson and
Fred Stroyan from Billingsgate Training School for being
great fish buddies (www.seafoodtraining.org); Jamie Angus
and the rest of the team at MSC UK for the sponsorship and
the great support over the years – one of the finest
ecolabels available (msc.org) – I never had a more
impressive fish delivery. Finally, to Naine Woodrow of
North Street Potters, whose dedication to her craft, people
and community is awe-inspiring; every single piece of
crockery from the North Street collective is created with
passion and care, with its own individual signature by the
most inspiring team of potters (northstreetpotters.com).
 About the Author
SILLA BJERRUM is an award-winning expert in Japanese
cooking. She is a permanent staff member at the
Billingsgate Seafood Training School in London, and co-
founded the popular restaurant chain Feng Sushi, which
was awarded the City of London Prize for Sustainability in
2011 and 2012, and the Sustainable Restaurant
Association’s Prize for Innovation for her six-season menu.
She also won the Marine Steward Council (MSC) Chef of
the Year in 2015. Silla is currently working as a consultant
to the Japanese restaurant trade in the UK and
internationally, while still a committed chef teaching sushi
and Japanese food courses and skills workshops. She is also
a regular feature on the pop-up restaurant scene.
DEDICATION: This book is for my family,
David, Sugar Ray and Mia Ray
First published in 2018 by Jacqui Small
An imprint of The Quarto Group
74–77 White Lion Street
London N1 9PF

Text copyright © 2018 by Silla Bjerrum

Design and layout copyright © Jacqui Small 2018

The author’s moral rights have been asserted.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a

retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

Publisher: Jacqui Small

Senior Commissioning Editor: Fritha Saunders
Managing Editor: Emma Heyworth-Dunn
Art Director: Penny Stock
Editor: Rachel Malig
Photography Keiko Oikawa
Props stylist: Lucy Harvey
Production: Maeve Healy

Digital edition: 978-1-91112-795-6

Hardcover edition: 978-1-91112-734-5

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

2017 2016 2015