Delhi, Agra & Jaipur (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
Delhi, Agra & Jaipur (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
DELHI
AGRA & JAIPUR
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
DELHI
AGRA & JAIPUR
Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi
Dharmendar Kanwar & Ranjana Sengupta
Project Editor Aruna Ghose
Art Editor Alpana Khare
Editors Ira Pande, Madhulita Mohapatra, Razia Grover
Designers Anand Naorem, Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi
Cartography Uma Bhattacharya
Picture Editor Radhika Singh
Main Contributors
Anuradha Chaturvedi, Dharmendar Kanwar, Partho Datta,
Premola Ghose, Ranjana Sengupta, Subhadra Sengupta
Illustrators
Contents
Ajay Sethi, Ampersand, Ashok Sukumaran, Avinash,
How to Use This Guide 6
Dipankar Bhattacharya, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN 978-0-24100-699-3
Introducing
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor”
Delhi, Agra
is the floor above ground level. & Jaipur
Great Days in Delhi,
Agra & Jaipur 10
Entertainment
in Delhi 124
with its own chapter. A last chapter, On Independence, this grand imperial capital
became the official and bureaucratic centre
of the new Indian nation. Today, the former
26 January the Republic Day Parade
is held (see p75). The National Museum
is on Janpath. To the north are Connaught
Viceroy’s House is the president’s residence, Place, the Birla Mandir and the cultural
Further Afield, covers peripheral and ministers and civil servants live nearby in
spacious bungalows along the tree-lined
complex at Mandi House. Despite strict
security restrictions, New Delhi is the
avenues. Kingsway, the east-west city’s most impressive area.
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s
sights. All sights are numbered Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Streets and Plazas Gardens Restaurants pp250–52 sights by category: Mosques and
1 Rashtrapati Bhavan t Lodi Gardens 1 Big Chill
New
Delhi 16 Varq
w Jantar Mantar PA R ROAD
NC BAZAA 17 Veda
H KUMAIN
1 Area Map
18 Wasabi
IA
N
G
M AR
RK Ashram RO
Marg AD
CHO
IRA
R
Shivaji DE
DI
Bridge EN
W
D
(IN
K)
SHAHEED BHAGAT DA
L UP
AM
AD
C U BA
S
KA AU
HR
Shivaji HY
G H T CIR
N
LI RA AY
AS
Stadium AK
BA AR RO KHAM Barakhamba Rd A
MG
NA
RI
KA
RO KH MG AD BA
MG
ISH
AD BA
ST
BA SIN GH Tilak
KR
Bridge
LSTOY MG
AD
MA
House S IK A NDRA
TO
BA
AS RD
NS
RA
PANDIT PANT MG
C OPERNICUS MARG
Janpath
J A N PAT H
HO AD
SA
GA
TAL K Patel RO
G
M AT H U R A
ND
KA Chowk
AR
0 metres 750 TO RO AH
SH
HI
T
KIDWAI MG
NORTH AVE
RA AD ZE
EN
M
FE RO
SC
750 RO
RE
0 yards
AD AS
ISI K
LA
RA RD
A
MUGHAL P RAS A D RO A D NA
Central Secretariat RA
RAFI AHMED
ROAD
GARDENS PU A RD
QIL
SOUTH AVENUE
Udhyog
HE
TH Bhawan
M OT
OT
RO
YA
AD
PANDARA
MA GA IL AL RO
DR
ME
NE
HR 16 18
•
ZA
NO
JA
R
ISH
BA U
AH
K IR
RAJ A JI MG
MG
J AN PATH
AK
Khan
NA
SH
MG
Market
TE
HU
EN TI
M UR AR
SS
TI 3•11 BH
(pages 126–35).
A IN
M
MAKARIOS MG
MG IA
ARCHBISHOP
Race AN
AD
AD
M A H ARI SHI RA
Course RO AM
RO
AR
B BR
MG
SU
SA
ZE
G
DE L HI GO L F
NG
MAX MUELLER
FD
RA
AJ
C O UR S E
AR
AU
TUG
IR
JU
HV
HLU
NG
M AN
IT
LODI
D
ROA
PR
Q RD
GARDE NS
RO
LO D I
MG
AD
ROAD
See also Street Finder LO D I
maps 1, 2, 5
The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap
Stars indicate the sights that no visitor the Canopy and the National Stadium at the far end.
Sansad Bhavan is
overlooks a grand vista. built by a pir called Sayyid Sahib. Shady trees are
a standard feature of all Lutyens’s avenues.
Roundabout
Beautifully
landscaped road
intersections are a
should miss. North Block has
an imposing
also known as
Parliament House.
Vayu Bhavan
Udyog
Bhavan
haven for workers
during lunch.
Central Hall India Gate
which is open
to the public.
D
D
A
A
R
R
S
IE U
J
S N
A
U H
R
O E
A
L I
B
A
GH
Lutyens saw in ROA
D
Chiswick, England,
these are held by
ME
G
IX
NO
N M
A
AR
RA
G
P
J
U
D
M
3 Detailed information
rule, the house built for the Bhavan, through the pre- and India was drafted here in the 1936. The statue is now at MF Husain, Ram Kumar, KG
viceroy, which is today the post-Independence periods. early days of Independence. Coronation Park (see p107). Subramanyam and Anjolie Ela
President of India’s official To the west of the grounds Today, both the Rajya Sabha Around India Gate are the Menon are also seen here.
residence, stands at the are the formal Mughal (Upper House) and the Lok stately homes of erstwhile Reproductions of paintings
crest of Raisina Hill. This Jaipur Column, Gardens with water-
20th-century architectural Rashtrapati Bhavan courses and fountains
masterpiece covers an built on three levels,
Sabha (House of the People)
meet here when Parliament
is in session. The Lok Sabha’s
The Neo-Classical Cathedral Church of the
Redemption
Indian princes, including
Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), where the Constitution of India was drafted
private papers. Opposite is the
Indira Gandhi National Centre
signals the end of the parade.
to the symbols used is on
the back flap of the book.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA 141
NORTH OF DELHI
Lying between the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, this agriculturally
1 Introduction
prosperous region is held to be the cradle of Indian civilization.
Beyond Delhi
Its historical and mythological past extends from the ancient brick
cities of the Indus Valley and the early Aryan settlements to the
later Muslim and European forts and cities. Each culture has
enriched the region and contributed to its remarkable diversity. The landscape, history
This vast plain, from about the second To most Indians, however, this is the sacred and character of each Area by Area
millennium on, has remained one of territory of the Mahabharata (see p145), where
India’s most densely populated areas.
As time went on, ancient fortified city
states developed into medieval walled
gods and epic heroes fought a legendary
battle at Kurukshetra and where Krishna
(see pp166–7) expounded the famous
region is outlined here, Apart from Delhi, the region has
towns which contained prosperous
agricultural lands and flourishing markets.
Many of these are today important
Bhagavad Gita. The development of
ideas that led to the later compilation
of the Vedas and Upanishads, the
showing how the area been divided into three areas,
industrial centres. Since the area has had
such a diverse history, its architectural
remains are an eclectic mixture of styles
bedrock of Hindu philosophy and
ethics, are believed to have taken
place here as well. Panipat, the site
has developed over the each of which has a separate
so that ancient brick structures, Mughal
monuments and colonial churches rub
of three decisive battles that changed
the history of North India, lies close by. centuries and what it has
shoulders with modern factories. To the northeast and northwest lie the
chapter. The most interesting
To the north are the pilgrim towns of
Haridwar and Rishikesh, where the Ganges,
now forgotten towns of Narnaul, Hansi and
Sardhana, associated with the medieval to offer to the visitor today.
India’s most holy river, enters the plains.
With the splendid backdrop of the Shivalik
Hills, this area, rich in flora and fauna, offers
Tughlaq and Sur dynasties, and European
freebooters and nabobs such as Skinner,
Reinhardt and his wife, Begum Samroo.
cities, towns and villages,
exciting places for adventure sports such
as white-water rafting.
Meerut, the epicentre of the Indian Mutiny,
is now a busy market and trading centre. and other places to visit are
numbered on a Regional Map.
184 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 185
2 Regional Map
Getting Around
Jaipur’s airport is at Sanganer (see p286), and two
This historically rich territory is centred around the old superfast trains (the Pink City Express and Shatabdi
capital of Amber and the “newer” city of Jaipur with its Express) connect the city to Delhi. Air-conditioned luxury
palace, observatory, temples and bazaars and impressive
modern buildings. To Jaipur’s north are the attractive
Samode palace and Shekhawati areas, while to its
coaches from Delhi to Jaipur are run by Rajasthan Tourism
(see p291). The rest of the region is best explored by road.
The Palace on Wheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
This shows the road network
(see p289) offer luxury rail tours for well-heeled tourists who
northeast is the wooded area of the Aravallis, where
Alwar, a former princely state, and the Sariska National
Park are situated. To the southwest, past the textile
Churu
Lutu
Chirawa
Bagar
wish to savour the trip through the desert in royal comfort.
Delhi
and gives an illustrated
towns of Sanganer and Bagru, are the religious
sites of Ajmer and Pushkar. Southeast of Jaipur
lies Chaksu, a pilgrim centre, and Tonk, once the
Bikaner
Fatehpur
Mandawa
Jhunjhunu
Maonda Bahror
which is the spectacular tiger sanctuary of Tarla
A sacred tank at Galta
T
HA
Kot Putli
Nim Ka
Thana Bansur
Sikar Pragpura
Khandela ALWAR
Thoi
Kuchaman
Ramgarh
CHOMU
SAMODE
Partabgarh
BHANGARH
RAJGARH
Agra
and around, the region by
MAKRANA
SAMBHAR
SALT LAKE
Bheslana
Phulera JAIPUR
AMBER
Ramgarh
Basi
Dausa
Mahwa
Sakrai
Maota Lake in front of Amber Palace
car and public transport.
A roadside tea stall Toda Bhim
BAGRU Sights at a Glance
Gurha
Roopangarh SANGANER Tunga 1 Jaipur (see pp186–203)
Dudu Nandauti Hindaun 2 Amber (see pp204–7)
Bari 3 Sanganer
Key KISHANGARH
Phagi CHAKSU 4 Bagru
Highway Lalsot
Major road
Minor road PUSHKAR
AJMER
Arain
Sewa
Nimera
Banwara
Hingonia
Mandaori
Gangapur
Karauli
5 Alwar (see pp210–11)
6 Siliserh
7 Rajgarh
Each area can be quickly
Ganor
Railroad
State border
Nasirabad
Kaser
Malpura
Nawai
Bonli
RANTHAMBHORE Sapotra
8 Sariska National Park
(see pp214–15)
9 Bairat
identified by its colour coding,
NATIONAL PARK
0 kilometres 25 Beawar
Bandanwara
Sarwar
Junia
Toda Raisingh
TONK
Jhonpra
SAWAI
Khandhar
0 Bhangarh
q Chomu
w Samode
shown on the inside front cover.
Kekri MADHOPUR
0 miles 25 r Sambhar Salt Lake
Udaipur t Makrana
Uniara
Behraonda
Nagar y Kishangarh
Devli u Pushkar (see pp220–21)
i Ajmer (see pp222–5)
Kota INDERGARH o Chaksu
p Tonk
a Sawai Madhopur
s Ranthambhore National Park
(see pp228–9)
d Indergarh
Tours
Pushkar’s spectacular cattle fair in progress Printed textiles drying in the sun at Sanganer e Shekhawati
186 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA For keys to symbols see back flap JAIPUR 187
1 Jaipur Y Talkatora
N of Jai Niwas Bagh. Open daily. s
later filled in and developed
as a residential area.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
3 Detailed information was built. This may have been Brahmpuri: Open 5am–8pm daily. on NH8. * 3,073,500. n RTDC,
chance to see the medieval alongside the Swagatam Complex (0141) 220
one of the reasons why this This large open area near the
modern. On its colourful streets, camels jostle site was chosen for the new City Palace derives its name 0595. Rajasthan Tourism, MI Rd,
for space with motorbikes, and turbaned village city. When excavated, it was from chaugan, an ancient Persian (0141) 511 0598. ( Mon–Sat.
All the important towns elders rub shoulders with youngsters in jeans.
Often called the Pink City because its
prominent buildings are washed with this
surrounded on three sides by
a lake known as Rajamal ka
Talab, making it look like a
form of polo played with a curved
stick. In the past, this area was
used for festival processions,
_ Kite Flying (mid-Jan), Elephant
Festival (Feb–Mar), Gangaur
(Mar–Apr), Teej (Jul–Aug).
talkatora, literally a “bowl in wrestling matches, as well as Transport
and other places to visit colour, Jaipur’s old walled area has the City
Palace Museum, a medieval astronomical
Govind Dev Temple, dedicated to Krishna
observatory, and bazaars that sell everything from precious channels and fountains. Towards
a lake”. Sawai Jai Singh II was
particularly fond of this rather
secluded spot and used
elephant and lion fights. The
Jal Mahal,
GAITOR
k Sanganer. £ @ Sindhi Camp.
Bagh
AAR
TA
to him. Jai Singh then moved Chaugan is not played any more,
RAS NSHI
JH
O
AZ
ROTW
ROO
TA
D
See pp192–5. to the Chandra Mahal, at the OA but the stadium is the venue for
MU
RI B
A AR
A R Govind Dev MOT
KA
D A
AN Temple RA
AAR
BAZ
ICH CHAND AAR
KA
NT
KA POLE City Palace
Govind Dev Temple V
BAZ
GAN
PAI J AY
TH CH
Museum held at the time of Holi (see p42).
CO L L E C T O R
AN
HAL
Inter-state
RD
TA
LE B Jantar
OA
A
RAS
A
Open 5–11am, 6–8pm daily. rulers. Devotees R Mantar
A
AS R
A M
Mahal
D
_ Holi (Mar), Janmashtami N PINK CITY
LO N
AD
KA
A
AAR
NIK
H TRIP
AT E
ION C OLI
K A E WA
NA AR
A B
TA
N JI
S TAT
(Jul–Aug), Annakut (Oct–Nov). AR
AZ
AZ
a brief glimpse of AAR
RA
NS
RAS
Jaipur Railway
S ATG
E B
K A LYA
SA RAM
GHO
Station
JAN
TA
HL
J BA
RAS
I
Masjid ZA
KHA
AR
unusual temple is the flute- times a day,
GOP
URA
I NA
AAR
TH IND
MA IRA
playing Krishna (also known and on special MIR
BAZ
KIS
RG BAZ
CHA
ZA I AAR GALTA
AZ
SMA
as Govind Dev). This image, festivals such IL R
ARI
A B
OAD NE
OAD B A ZH R U
JOH
ER R AAR
WA J
information on important
RO AN
AD
M
A
L Gate
LV
G H AT
ASH
PA OK Gate
late 17th century to save it Y Jai MAR
MA
G
R
PR Zoo (Mammals
A
RG
RA M Govt Central
RD
AGRA
VIR
O
RG
10pm daily. AD
this temple was once a garden at a festival
HA
Ram
MA
AD
CIRCLE
HOSP Bagh
ITAL
RO
R G PAT
ROAD
D
AR
RD
RD
GA
RD
GH
K
ON
SMS
LA
RU
S
SA
being built. Legend has it that Bagh, planned as a Sawai Jai Singh II, a brilliant statesman, scholar
DA
DO
TI
Hospital
SIN
EH
YU Central Park
one night, the king awoke from private leisure ground
L N
DH
AN
BH MA IST
MO
M
AW
RLA
RG IR
his sleep to find himself in for the ladies of the years and was awarded the
W
RA
the presence of Krishna who royal household. Inspired AR IN Museum of title of “Sawai” (“one-and-a-quarter”),
A
W
G GH
BH
JAW
Indology
SA
demanded that his devasthan by the classic Mughal charbagh, a metaphor for one who is extra-
AMBEDKAR NA
(“divine residence”) be returned it has features such as water CIRCLE RA
IN S
INGH RD
ordinary, by Mughal emperor
Sanganer Airport
Rambagh
Palace Hotel
Jawahar Kala Kendra
& Moti Doongri Palace
Muhammad Shah when he was just
11 years old. Along with Bengali scholar
and engineer, Vidyadhar Chakravarty,
15km (9 miles)
Jai Singh supervised the building of a new
will need to plan your visit.
SANGANER
capital south of Amber and named
Sights at a Glance it Jaipur (“city of victory”). Work started
Sawai Jai Singh II
1 City Palace Museum in 1727 and took six years to complete.
(r.1700–43)
2 Govind Dev Temple Surrounded by a crenellated wall
3 Jai Niwas Bagh 0 metres 500 pierced by seven gates, Jaipur is one of
4 Talkatora
North India’s finest examples of a planned urban city. Its grid of nine
0 yards 500
rectangular sectors, believed to represent the nine cosmic divisions
5 Chaugan Stadium
of the universe, is actually based on a geometric and pragmatic
6 Tripolia Bazaar plan with a system of main streets, intersected by spacious market
7 Jantar Mantar squares. Jai Singh encouraged traders and artists to settle here,
Key
8 Hawa Mahal giving tax incentives to merchants to ensure economic prosperity.
A view of the walled city of Jaipur 9 Govt Central Museum Street-by-Street area
One of the world’s most famous buildings, the Taj Main Practical Information
Mahal commemorates both the Mughal emperor entrance Taj Mahal. Tel (0562) 233 0498.
Open 6am–7pm Sun–Thu.
Shah Jahan, and Mumtaz Mahal, his favourite wife. The Dome Closed Fri. & = _ Taj
Its perfect proportions and exquisite craftsmanship The 44-m (144-ft) double dome Mahotsav (18–27 Feb). Museum:
have been described as “a prayer, a vision, a dream, is capped with a finial. Open 10am–5pm Sun–Thu.
a poem, a wonder.” This sublime garden-tomb, an image Closed public hols. &
of the Islamic garden of paradise, cost nearly 41 million
rupees and 500 kilos of gold. Around 20,000 workers
laboured for almost 22 years to complete it in 1653.
Story boxes explore
. Marble Screen
The filigree screen
related topics.
delicately carved
from a single block
of marble was
meant to veil
the area around
the royal tombs. The Lotus Pool
Named after its lotus-shaped fountain spouts,
the pool reflects the tomb. Almost every visitor
is photographed sitting on the marble bench here.
Pishtaq
Recessed arches
provide depth while
their inlaid panels
reflect the changing
light to give the tomb
a mystical aura.
. Pietra Dura
Inspired by the paradise garden,
intricately carved floral designs inlaid
with precious stones embellish the
austere white marble surface to give
it the look of a bejewelled casket.
Taj Mahal
4 The region’s top sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
1 Main Tomb
2
1 3 2 Masjid (mosque)
3 Mehmankhana
(guesthouse)
4 Charbagh
are dissected to reveal their
KEY
1 Plinth
4
5 Gateway
River
Yamuna
(131 ft) high and crowned
by a chhatri, frame the tomb,
highlighting the perfect
Calligraphic Panels
The size of the Koranic Key
towns or city centres are
. Tomb Chamber symmetry of the complex.
Museums and
Shopping in Delhi
Two Adults allow at least
₹5,000
•
Take a short historical
walk to the National
Museum
•
Enjoy an al fresco lunch
at Lodi Gardens
•
Discover the Crafts
Museum and the fine
shops in Khan Market
Morning
The main gateway to Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi Start the day with a walk down
majestic Rajpath (see p75), New
A Family Day Out is the Nehru Planetarium Delhi’s main ceremonial street, to
in Delhi (see p82). A dome-shaped India Gate (see p75). The lawns
screen and a sky theatre here are a great vantage point to
Family of 4 allow at least hold live and taped shows view the magnificent sweep of
₹5,000 on astronomy, with a Carl Zeiss Lutyens’s capital complex. A brisk
•
Visit the Rail Museum Spaceflight master projector walk to Janpath will bring you to
and Nehru Planetarium to view the sky. You can also the National Museum (see pp76–9).
•
Shop at the Santushti see the historic module, Soyuz Highlights include objects from
Shopping Complex T-10, which carried Rakesh the Indus Valley Civilization,
Sharma, India’s first astronaut, miniature paintings and the Indo-
•
Explore Humayun’s Tomb to space in 1984. Chinese Buddhist art sections.
Afternoon
Morning Take a lunch break at Basil
Start the day by viewing and Thyme at the nearby
vintage trains at the Rail Santushti Shopping Complex
Museum (see p108). A toy (p122), where some of the city’s
train takes visitors around best boutiques provide a
and, on some days, the old tempting distraction. After a
Patiala State Steam Monorail delicious meal and
is steamed up as well. A bit of shopping, head for
must-see is the Fairy Queen, Humayun’s Tomb (see p87).
manufactured in 1855 and Set in the centre of a stylised
listed in the Guinness Book of garden, India’s first great
Records as the world’s oldest Mughal garden tomb is
working locomotive. Next, visit a tranquil place. Pause to
the Nehru Memorial Museum examine the fine trellis-work
and Library (see p82), once of the stone screens. The
the official residence of India’s lawns provide space for
first prime minister, Pandit children to run around and
Jawaharlal Nehru, and now enjoy themselves after a India Gate, surrounded by lawns, a pleasant
a museum. Within its grounds morning spent indoors. picnic spot
Miniature painting of a Rajput prince, surrounded by female attendants in a garden pavilion
G R E AT D AY S I N D E L H I , A G R A & J A I P U R 11
A Day in Jaipur
Morning
Begin your day with a trip to the
dramatic 16th-century hill fort of
Amber (see pp204–5). An elephant
ride takes you to the complex, with
courtyards, private gardens and
Taj Mahal at sunrise, a sublime experience pillared apartments. Back in Jaipur,
a city of palaces, start palace-
A short taxi ride from here will bring day to visit the Taj as the after- hopping by first going to the City
you to Lodi Gardens (see p83) for noon sun heats the marble Palace (see pp192–3), a part of
a delicious al fresco lunch at Lodi and makes it difficult to walk which still houses the erstwhile
Garden Restaurant (see p250). barefoot (mandatory here). royal family. Close by is the Jantar
Nothing can top this experience, Mantar (see pp196–7), still used to
Afternoon so break off for lunch to recover calculate astronomical events.
After lunch, visit the Crafts your breath. Finally, visit Hawa Mahal (see p190),
Museum (see pp90–91), to see a whimsical façade of windows
an unusual art collection. Open Afternoon and quite unlike any other palace.
courtyards with shady trees Head for Itmad-ud-Daulah’s
provide good resting places Tomb (see pp162–3) to see Afternoon
for children and the elderly. the superb pietra dura interiors A leisurely lunch at the Rambagh
End your day at lively Khan and the delicate marble Palace Hotel (see p199) comes
Market (see p83), exploring the screens, that almost rival those with all the trappings of a royal
excellent bookshops, boutiques of the Taj. The last lap of the day feast, including splendidly attired
and cafés to be found there. must belong to historic Agra waiters. However, don’t miss out
Fort (see p154). Shah Jahan on an afternoon of shopping at the
was imprisoned by his son lively bazaars around Bari Chaupar
A Day in Agra in the fort’s Musamman Burj. (see pp188–9) for brightly printed
He spent his last days gazing textiles, hand-made paper and
Two Adults allow at least lovingly at the Taj, across the silver jewellery. Also check out
₹5,000 river. You can stand at the same Johari Bazaar’s jewellery shops,
•
View the sunrise over window to say your final good- showcasing the famous kundan
the Taj Mahal bye to the Taj. and precious stone work.
•
Discover the glories
of the Itmad-ud-
Daulah Tomb
•
Say goodbye to the Taj,
Shah Jahan style
Morning
Try and reach Agra the evening
before so that you can watch
the sun rise over the Taj Mahal
(see pp158–9) – the changing
colours of the marble make for
an unforgettable experience.
It is also the best time of the Elephants waiting for visitors outside Amber Fort, Jaipur
12 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Next, visit the nearby National the Red Fort (pp98–9), where
Three Days in Delhi Museum (pp76–9), which you can wrap up your Old
has a great collection of historic Delhi adventure with a sound-
Two Adults allow at least antiquities on display. For a and-light show. Visit nearby
₹5,000 more contemporary perspective Connaught Place (p80) for
•
View the antiquities at of India, pop into the National dinner – there are plenty
the National Museum Gallery of Modern Art (p75). of options, varying from the
•
Watch the Son et Lumière Don’t miss out on the gallery’s more traditional to fusion,
at the Red Fort stunning journey through Asian and European.
Indian art, titled In the Seeds of The pretty colonnaded
•
Climb to the top of the Time, which includes works by streets make for a good
Qutb Minar eminent artists such as Amrita walk after dinner.
•
Explore Hauz Khas Village Shergill and Jamini Roy.
•
Experience Bollywood at Day 2
the Kingdom of Dreams Afternoon Take a cycle Morning Spend your morning
rickshaw tour of Chandni at the Qutb Minar (pp116–17).
Chowk (94–7), and explore Visit the complex early, before
the network of streets that the tourists arrive, and enjoy
Day 1 take you to the heart of Old a peaceful stroll around the
Morning Begin the day with Delhi. Catch a glimpse of the ancient monuments. The most
a stroll around India Gate beautiful Naughara street, prominent feature of the
(p75). Designed by the British which is lined with old, brightly- complex is the stunning, five-
architect Edwin Lutyens, the painted havelis (mansions). On storeyed Victory Tower. The
monument commemorates your way, stop by the jalebiwalla tower was built with materials
the Indian soldiers who for a taste of traditional sweets from ransacked Hindu temples,
died during World War I. in Chandni Chowk. Then, visit and the architecture reflects
From here, take a walk along the peaceful Jami Masjid a fascinating cross of Hindu
Rajpath (p75), the city’s main (p96), one of Shah Jahan’s finest and Islamic styles. If you have
ceremonial street, towards architectural wonders. Afterwards, time, visit the nearby village
the parliament buildings. head out of Chandni Chowk to of Mehrauli (p117), which
has an array of beautiful
monuments as well.
There are many private galleries, tickets for the show in advance).
boutiques, coffee shops and tea Described as the carnival
rooms around the area. If you of India, this all-singing and
browse through the eccentric dancing ensemble gives insight
stores, you can find vintage into India’s other great love –
Bollywood movie posters, funky cinema. The interior of the
souvenirs and classic kurtas Kingdom of Dreams complex
(Indian shirts). Later, take a short offers a glimpse of every
drive to the Baha’i House of region in India. From Goan
Worship (p119), better known architecture, with its vividly-
as the Lotus temple. Completed painted buildings, to ornate
in 1986, the temple is shaped sculptures reminiscent of
like a lotus, and designed in Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh,
a contemporary fashion. The the auditorium is a sight to
Baha’i faith emphasizes on behold. You can sample
monotheism, and is dedicated traditional foods from every
to the spiritual unity of all races, region – buttermilk from
religions and castes. Devote the Himachal Pradesh, delicious
evening to the Lodi Gardens Bara Gumbad or the “big dome” at the snacks from Gujarat, and spicy
(p83), a popular sunset spot. Lodi Gardens vindaloo (curry) from Goa.
This green oasis is usually
crowded with people, walking over the country. There is much To extend your trip…
and running, during all hours to buy in this market – from a Take a four-hour drive from
of the day. There are several variety of handicrafts to shawls, Delhi to Alwar (pp210–11),
monuments within the park jewellery, lamps, and much a city that offers a totally
that can be explored, such more. The market offers hassle different experience of the
as the tomb of Sikander Lodi. free shopping. Sample food region. There are plenty of
Have dinner at the Lodi Garden from states as diverse as Kashmir majestic fort hotels with
Restaurant (p250), or head to and Goa. The Rajasthani stall commanding views and
the nearby Khan Market (p83) has particularly good kulfi fabulous suites. The City
for drinks, dinner and some (ice cream) and delicious Palace (p210), built in the
retail therapy. kejsangri (desert beans). 18th century, gives visitors
a view of beautiful Rajput
Day 3 Afternoon After lunch, make a architecture. The Vinai Vilas
Morning Start with a trip quick visit to Humayan’s Tomb Mahal within the palace has
to the National Rail Museum (p87). This majestic mausoleum stunning, ornate balconies
(pp108–9), which offers insight belongs to the second Mughal and intricate stone carvings.
into India’s extensive rail emperor, Humayun, and is an The City Palace Museum
network. Tour the area on architectural marvel of the (p210) has a fine collection
the toy train, which takes you period. Afterwards, catch the of Indian miniature paintings.
around the park. Next, head Delhi metro to Gurgaon. Get Enjoy the view of the
to Dilli Haat (p109), which is off at the IFFCO metro station countryside around this
themed like a village market for a Bollywood-style show at elegant property.
and features artisans from all the Kingdom of Dreams (book
Day 1 The beautifully carved sandstone pillars of the palace of Fatehpur Sikri
Morning The best time to
visit the Taj Mahal (pp158–61) palace, Machchhi Bhawan (p154) of Agra. His tomb is a marvellous
is early in the morning. It is ideal and the Musamman Burj (p154), symmetrical structure, set in
to arrive an evening prior to your the tower where Shah Jahan a beautiful garden, and the
visit, and get a timely start the was later imprisoned. It is also room has wonderful acoustics.
next day. Famously described by possible to take a boat along the Make sure you experiment
Rabindranath Tagore as “a solitary river for splendid views of the Taj. with sound in the burial chamber,
tear suspended on the cheek and ask your guide for more
of time”, the Taj is a magnificent Day 2 information on the use of
sight to behold at dawn. Explore Morning Start off with a short these acoustics. End the
the chambers and the gardens. drive from Agra to the deserted day with a walk through
The calligraphic panels and the city of Fatehpur Sikri (pp174–7). the bazaars (pp259–61) of
jewelled marble patterns are Built by Akbar in 1571, it served Agra, where you can shop for
exquisite. Unwind over lunch at as his capital for 14 years. How- nick-nacks. To enjoy good food
nearby Dasprakash (p254). ever, the lack of an adequate and live instrumental music, have
supply of water led to its eventual dinner at Esphahan (p254)
Afternoon Spend the after- abandonment. The city has since at the Oberoi Amarvilas.
noon exploring the incredible been restored and today, it is
red arches of Agra Fort (p154). an enchanting sight. Visit the To extend your trip…
Located across the Yamuna River, Buland Darwaza (p177), and The Keoladeo Ghana
the fort has an arrangement of the marvellous Tomb of Sheikh National Park (p172–3) is
halls, galleries and courtyards, Salim Chishti (p177), where a great stopover between
and the Taj Mahal can be viewed many passersby tie knots of Agra and Jaipur. Ride a
from almost everywhere. There thread and make wishes. Get an bicycle through the bird
is much to learn and see here – early start to avoid the crowds. sanctuary, or take a walk
from the emperor Shah Jahan’s in the park. Travel further to
private mosque, Mina Masjid Afternoon Akbar himself Mathura (p165), and discover
(p154), and the grape garden, is buried at Sikandra (p164), the Krishna temples.
Anguri Bagh (p154), to the fish a small village on the outskirts
b
in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Both Delhi Tso Moriri
and Jaipur have international airports, Jammu
Kullu
while Agra is serviced by domestic
flights. The region also has good road Amritsar HIMACHAL
PRADESH
and railway connections, with Agra
about three hours and Jaipur about PUNJAB
Shimla
four by train from Delhi. Chandigarh
Manasarovar
Mussoorie Lake
Dehra Dun
Yamuna UTTARAKHAND
HARYANA Nainital
Ga nges
PAKISTAN
Bikaner Delhi
UTTAR
PRADESH
Jaisalmer RAJASTHAN Agra
Jaipur Lucknow G
Ajmer l
Jodhpur ba Kanpur
am
Ch Gwalior
in
Lu
Jhansi Allahabad
Kota
Khajuraho
Udaipur
GUJARAT
Bhuj M A DHY A P R A D E SH
Gandhinagar
Bhopal
Kandla Ahmedabad
Jamnagar Jabalpur
Rajkot Vadodara Indore
C
Narmad a
Bhavnagar
Tapti
I N D I A
Surat Raipur
Diu Nagpur Durg
Ajanta
Nasik
MAHARASHTRA
Ellora Aurangabad
Pune
Nizamabad
Karimnagar
Satara Bidar
Warangal
Solapur
God
Hyderabad av
ANDHRA
ari
PRADESH
KARNATAKA na
Panaji Krish
For keys to symbols see back flap
PUTTING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR ON THE MAP 17
C H I N A
Tibet Lhasa
Tsangpo N O R T H E A ST
ST A T E S
N E P A L
Ziro
SIKKIM Thimphu Dibrugarh
Kathmandu Itanagar
Gangtok BHUTAN
orakhpur Raxaul Jorhat
Bagdogra Tezpur
Dimapur
Guwahati
Kohima
a
Brahmaputr
Patna Shillong
Varanasi Imphal
B IH AR
Silchar
So n
Gaya BANGLADESH
Tamu
JHARKHAND Aizawl
Shantiniketan Dhaka Agartala Kale Kalewa
Ranchi WEST
HHATTIS- BENGAL MYANMAR
GARH Kolkata
Haldia
ODISHA Ma
ha
n a di
Sittwe
Bhubaneswar
Puri
Port Blair
Kyaukpyu
0 kilometres 200
Visakhapatnam
0 miles 200
NAYA BAZAAR
The sights described in this book are grouped within three areas, Sadar A SAD
Bazaar
each of which can be explored by foot. Vijay Chowk is the vantage
point for the grand sweep of Raj buildings grouped on Raisina Hill. KHARI BAOLI
Q U TA B
ROAD
BA L L I M
To the north, the magnificent Jami Masjid, with its busy hive of
LA
L
lanes, was once the heart of the Mughal empire and is still the
KU
AR
AN
AN
ROA
focus of Old Delhi. The past and present mingle here and yet
BA
ZA
AR
preserve their own space and identity. To the east, the medieval
RD
quarter around the dargah of the Sufi Nizamuddin Auliya leads
along Mathura Road to the ruined Purana Qila. This ancient site
has interesting origins, going back to a distant mythological past.
New
C HELM SFOR D R O A D
Delhi
AD
AD
PA A R RO
B A ZA
RO
NC MAIN
AD
HK
RO
ND
UI
NT
AN
RD
NA
SA
G
KA
RK Ashram
RO
BA
AR
HIB
Marg
VE
AD
M
SA
A CHOW
VI
LA
IR
R
NG
DI
D
AN
BA
)
(IN
N
Rajiv
MA
G
SH A HEED BHAG AT
BHAI VIR SINGH MG
M
RK
CON
AM
TU
BA
HR
MG R
U S AKH
NA
KA Shivaji UG
AS
L I Stadium GH H T CIRC RO A
BA SIN AD MB
AK
RG
RI A
A
AR
KA
RO
HN
KH
MA
AD
ST
BA
RIS
BA MG
UR
AK
GH AD LSTOY MG
BA
SIN TO
M
NS
R D AS
RA
JAI
BA
SA
GA
AS H
HA
M
M
OK
ND
BIS AR
RD
J A N PAT H
Vijay Chowk (see p74), at the base of Raisina Hill, Patel Janpath
MG
TA D R G
HI
AH
Chowk
LK
NORTH AVE
SH
MG
MG
O OZ
PANT
E RA AD
FER
KIDWAI MG
SC
AD
A
CR O NN
RE RO AD ING
NS
AD AS
C RD
PANDIT
HO
SA
I NA K
R AIS RD
GARDENS
VIJAY
CHOWK R A J PAT H R A J PAT H
MA N S IN G H RO
National
Museum
AV EN UE
Udhyog
R
TH Bhawan MO
YA TIL RD
OT
GA R
AL BA
MG
RA
AK
M
JA
NE
ME
MG HR
KR ON M
SOUTH
U
N
ISH G
MG
AD
J A N PAT H
AD
NA
RA J AJI
Delhi MU BA
AK
TU GHL UQ R D
NH10
1
RT
I M
G
AD
Race
AD
RO
Dariya Course
RO
Kirit New Delhi Ganj
SA
E B
Nagar GZ
FD
N
MAX MUELLER
RA
AR
T UG
AU
AJ
The
JU
IR
una
Ridge
H LU
NG
HV
Yam
LOD I
IT
Q R
New
RO
PR
Delhi 24 G A RD E N S
NH
D
AD
Delhi
MG
Cantonment
ROAD
Hazrat LO D I
Indira Gandhi Nizamuddin
International
Airport Lajpat
Nagar
NH
2
NH 8
Vasant Siri
Vihar Fort
Agra
Mahipalpur Mehrauli
0 kilometres 8
0 miles 8 Tughlakabad
Chhatarpur
Key
Major sight
RI
NG
MUKHERJI MA RO
RG
A
D
Chandni
Chowk
CH ANDN I CHO WK
C H AN D N I
M A H AT M A
NA
Red Fort
N E TA
I
CH O W K
SA
RA
K
Chawri Bazaar
JI
RI
ZAAR
RI BA
NG
AW
CH CH
SU
GA
SI UR
TA I WAL
BH
I
ND
RA
RO
GA
ASH
M
HI
AN
LI
BA
AD
SAR
ZA
BA
ZA
MA R G
AR
AR R
CH
MAR G
AS I
ROAD
AF
D
TL
ALI
IQ
AB
RO
AR
AD
TA J AW A H A R L A L N
G EHRU MARG
T SINGH MG
RD ORE
AD
RO
MIRDARD M ARG
R ANJEE
ZAFA R MG
RING
Shivaji
Bridge KO
DE TL
JA
EN A
RA
DA
ROAD
MARG
HA
YA
L
MA
UP
AD
Barakhamba Rd HY Jami Masjid (see p96), the city’s main mosque
AY
A
MG near Chandni Chowk
Mandi
House Tilak Bridge
SIKA NDR A RD
MARG
M AT H U R A
RIN
Pragati
G
Maidan
G
AR
P R A GATI
COPERNICUS
M A IDA N
Indraprastha
K
LA
Pragati
ROA
ROAD
Maidan
TI
NA
RA
PU A RD
D
Crafts
QIL Museum
BHAIRON MA R
G
MATHURA
SH
ER
SH
A H RD
AD AN
MA
RO JAH
DR
ROAD
HA
AH
ZA
SH
TM
KIR
G
M
PANDARA
I Purana Qila (see p88), Delhi’s oldest historical site, now an integral
ROAD
HU
Khan A RT
BH
SS
Market
AI N
M ZO O LO GI CAL
IA
ARCHBISHOP MAKA R I
ND
AN
PARK
M
M
RA
HI
AR
B
SU
MAHARISHI RAM
MAR
DE LHI GOL F
COURSE
MA
G
TH
O
AN MG
SM
Humayun's
UR
Tomb
G
D
ROA
KI S A R A I R D
LO D I
AB
HARSHA RD
Nizamuddin
RO
AR
Station
AD
RA
HIM
KH
A
BA N
R ISBT
RO P U
Sarai Kale
A
AD L
Khan
LA
H
R
F LY O V E
0 metres 800
A PORTRAIT OF DELHI,
AGRA & JAIPUR
The Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region lies at the geographical heart of
North India. Its strategic location along the north-south and east-west
routes has given it a focal position in Indian history and many great
empires have been ruled from here. What we see today is a dynamic
blend of the old and the new, a proudly traditional social structure
within a modern liberalized economy.
and by the 13th century, Hinduism power of the British East India
had been influenced by the Bhakti Company. In 1858, the East India
Movement which stressed the need Company’s territories in India were
for a personal god. This resulted in the transferred to the British Crown,
Krishna cult, centred around Mathura and the country settled down to
and Brindavan – places associated with a 90-year span of Pax Britannica.
the youth of this popular god. Even as The legacy of the British Raj lives
the Bhakti Movement flourished, invaders on in modern India’s administrative
from Afghanistan and Central Asia and educational systems, and English
conquered the north. Delhi, and later is today the common language of
Agra, became the capitals of the communication between India’s
Muslim sultans. The cross-fertilization different linguistic regions and states.
of indigenous and Islamic cultures In 1947, British rule came to an
bred a unique hybrid that influenced end and India became an independent
art, architecture, music and cuisine, nation. Since then, the country has faced
reaching its zenith with the Mughals. the challenge of building industries,
The 19th century saw the decline of and tackling the social problems of
the Mughal empire and the growing illiteracy, poverty and the caste
system. As the population of India
raced towards one billion, these
problems became more pressing.
So, in the 1990s, India adopted
an open-market economy, adding
yet another dimension of change
to a land that is constantly on
the move.
Religions
India is a mosaic of different religions, varying from the
ancient animistic beliefs of the tribal communities to the
rigid orthodoxies of the Hindu caste system. The majority
of India’s population are Hindus, while around 138 million
(13 per cent) are Muslims. Several other religions, such as
Sikhism, Buddhism, Jainism, Zoroastrianism, Judaism and
Christianity, also flourish. Jawaharlal Nehru (see p82) saw
a unity in this diversity, and the Constitution of India
declares it to be a secular republic, where the state has
no official religion and all faiths can be freely practised.
Christianity
The rise of Christianity in
this region dates to the late
15th century when Catholic
missionaries travelled to India
in the wake of Portuguese
traders. About this time,
Christian Armenian
communities also settled
in Mughal India, procuring
a licence to trade. There is
evidence that the Mughal Jain nuns cover their mouths to avoid swallowing insects, in respect of all life forms
28 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Hanuman, the
monkey god, is a
faithful attendant
of Lord Rama. Vishnu, the Preserver, floats on
Kshirsagar (the sacred ocean),
the source of all life.
Garbhagriha, the
womb-like inner
sanctum sanctorum.
The entrance
is spanned
by a square
Piled stone stone lintel,
blocks raise the carved with
temple’s height sacred images.
Geometric
ornamentation is
an Islamic feature.
Jaali is
extensively used
for privacy and
ventilation.
Decorative
panels are inlaid
with precious
stones.
Ajmer’s Mayo College, built in the Indo-Saracenic style in 1875 (see p223)
Bungalows
An architectural legacy of the Raj,
originally designed to house Europeans
living in remote outposts, bungalows have
broad, covered verandahs, a front porch
and a balustraded roof. The term was a Government bungalow in New Delhi (see p73)
corruption of “Bangla”, or Bengal,
for its basic structure was derived from the indigenous Bengali rural hut. Until 1947, few bungalows
outside towns had running water or electricity but their high ceilings and shaded interiors kept
them dark and cool in summer. However, when Herbert Baker (see p72) designed a bungalow for
New Delhi’s mandarins, its unhappy occupants christened his airless edifice “Baker’s Oven”.
32 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Architectural Styles
Some of India’s finest forts and palaces lie in this region. Forts often served both as
defensive buildings and as self-sufficient walled cities, built along natural outcrops or near
rivers. Palaces were either part of a fort complex, or individual royal residences with public
and private spaces separated by gardens and courtyards. Later, during the Raj, fortified
palaces gave way to stately mansions inspired by European models. The beautiful garden
tombs, of which the Taj is the most famous example, were a Mughal innovation. In contrast
to these are rural houses that blend into the landscape. These eco-friendly structures, based
on indigenous building skills, are well insulated, and both cheap and easy to build.
Forts
Most Mughal forts, built of red sandstone with
marble trimmings, contained a city complex
with private and public areas and were seats Ramparts have pierced
of imperial power. Rajput forts, like Amber (see holes for cannons.
pp204–5) and Gwalior (see p178), on the other
hand, follow a different plan and their solid
bastions were built primarily for self-defence. The burj acted as
a watchtower.
Palaces
Some of the region’s most A grand flight of
The bangaldar roof
spectacular palaces date to steps leads to the The simple
is crowned with
the 19th century in a style gorgeous interior. exterior conceals
decorative spikes.
that imitated English stately a rich interior.
homes. The older, medieval
palaces nestle within forts
and had separate quarters
for men (mardana) and
women (zenana) with
landscaped gardens and
private mosques or temples.
Samode Palace, built in the 19th century and now a heritage hotel
(see pp236–7), has fabulously gilded and mirrored rooms. It is built in
the traditional design but has period furniture rather than the usual
Detail from a mirrored room cushions and floor coverings used in older palaces.
A PORTRAIT OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 33
Glossary of Terms
The Garden Tomb Baoli Underground stepwell,
The charbagh (see p171) is a such as Ugrasen’s Baoli (see p80).
terraced garden that surrounds
the tomb to give its austere lines Burj Residential or fortificatory tower;
a soft focus. The Taj Mahal, set at also bastion.
the edge of one, is the most
Chajja Overhanging
famous example of this style.
eaves or cornices
to protect
buildings
The dome Arched from the
surmounts the cloisters lead sun and rain.
central space. to the crypt.
Chhatri Open
square or Chhatri
Humayun’s tomb octagonal pavilion,
(see p87) is one of literally an umbrella.
the earliest Mughal
garden tombs, Diwan-i-Aam Hall of
which were set Public Audience.
on a raised plinth
within a charbagh. Diwan-i-Khas Hall
of Private
Other features
Audience.
include a private
mosque and crypts Gumbad/
for other royal graves. gumbaz Dome,
Gumbad often crowned
with a finial; the
Traditional Houses Thatched roofs
term is also used for a
Mud walls are keep the interiors
Indian villagers reinforced with cool and shaded. mausoleum.
usually live in simple straw and cowdung.
houses made of local Ritual paintings Jharokha
brighten mud walls. Overhanging oriel
material, often mud
window supported
and thatch. They have on brackets; some
cool, shaded interiors were used for the
and are brightly official appearances
decorated on the of the ruler.
outside. Building
materials come from Masjid Mosque.
Jharokha
the land and are
Mihrab Arched niche
renewed annually
facing Mecca in a mosque.
at Diwali (see p41). A rural Indian house at Mandawa (see p217)
Minar Free-standing
tower such as the Qutb
Havelis Minar (see p116).
The terrace gave an
The haveli, a multi-storeyed mansion for airy overview of the
wealthy merchant families, was usually Mohalla Quarter of town
surroundings.
inhabited by members
built around one or more courtyards which
Covered of one caste.
formed a focal point for the domestic activity
verandahs
of the joint family. Shekhawati’s painted separated living Namazgah Space near
havelis (see pp216–17) are examples of areas into smaller mosque for celebration
this architectural style. private units. of major Muslim
Minar festivals.
Lehenga, a long
skirt worn over
tight pyjamas,
accentuates the
swirling movement
of the dancer.
Rapid body
movements
keep time with
Nautch Girl was the pejorative
the beat of the title given to dancing girls in
accompanying the 19th century when Kathak
percussionist. became mere entertainment.
Kathak
This North Indian classical dance
form, which received lavish
patronage in the court of
Jaipur, derives from the
epic tales (kathas)
narrated by balladeers.
A typical Kathak
performance is a
blend of complex
footwork and facial
expressions (abhinaya) to enact
an episode, often from Krishna’s life.
Zakir Hussain
plays the tabla, a pair Contemporary theatre draws on classical
of drums that Sanskrit and folk drama (above). Avant-garde
provide percussion street plays are popular with fringe and protest
to most music and theatre groups. The National School of Drama
dance performances. (see p124) often produces Indian adaptations
of classics, such as King Lear and Macbeth.
36 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Painting
Two distinct schools of painting, Rajput and Mughal,
emerged in 16th-century North India. The meteoric
growth and popularity of miniature painting was due
to the introduction of paper as well as the lavish patronage
of Muslim and Rajput rulers. The Mughals encouraged
Persian miniature painters to settle in India where they
came into contact with indigenous traditions. A fusion Jain palm leaf manuscripts,
of the two styles under the rulers Akbar, Jahangir and such as this piece (c.1439), use
Shah Jahan led to a burst of artistic activity when court bright primary colours. Their
painters, such as Mansur, produced folios of birds, flowers, large-eyed human figures and
narrative depiction of themes
royal portraits and illustrated manuscripts. As Mughal influenced early Rajput art.
patronage declined in the 18th century, other regional
centres of art developed in North India. Monsters symbolize the threats
to Krishna at birth.
Space is divided
into units, each
dealing with a
separate episode
of the story.
Colours and
pigments were
extracted from
precious stones
and plants.
The Company School
flourished in the colonial
period. This portrait of King
Edward VII and Queen
Alexandra, attired in Indian
clothes and ornaments, was
painted by a local artist as a
specially commissioned work.
Rajput Miniatures
Rajput ateliers were named after their patron
courts (see p219), each with a distinctive style,
such as this 18th-century Mewar miniature,
Krshna Revealing his Divinity as Visnu to
his Parents. Rajput paintings have a narrative
theme – a court episode or a mythological
tale. Unlike Mughal paintings, their treatment
of space and the natural world is poetic rather
than realisitic and evokes a musical mood or
rasa (see p34). Baramasa (cycle of seasons)
and Ragamala (garland of ragas) paintings
are famous examples of this romantic style.
Indian Design
Indian design has evolved out of a very close bond
between the artist and his craft, in which the skill of
the hand is regarded as a sacred gift, passed down from
father to son in an unbroken line. This has ensured a design
tradition that is both a living art form as well as a means
of fulfilling the everyday needs of the community, be they
Geometric designs, or
sacred or functional. Freely enriched by the traditions of rangolis, form the base of
other races and cultures, India’s artistic heritage is renowned traditional decoration.
throughout the world for its vibrancy and creativity.
Mud and thatch are
regarded as sacred
media, being the gift
of Mother Earth.
The rounded
shape of the Pottery has a 5,000-year-old history
pot has not (see pp48–9) making it one of the
changed since world’s oldest skills. The potter’s
2500 BC.
wheel produces cheap, eco-
friendly objects of daily use.
Colour
The colours of Indian design are taken from nature, with names
to match. The five shades of white are lyrically compared to the
clouds when the rain is spent, the August moon, conch shell, jasmine
flower and the surf of the sea. Indigo, madder and turmeric are valued
for their dyes, and the crushed flowers of the flame of the forest
(Butea monosperma) yield a soft yellow colour still used in rural India
for playing Holi (see p40). Each colour has a ritual significance as well:
red is auspicious, celebratory and associated with weddings and
festivals, saffron symbolizes renunciation, yellow is worn during
the spring festival of Vasant, and green in the monsoon. The Indian
dyer (right) uses plants and roots for extracting colour. A dyer at work
A PORTRAIT OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 39
The lotus
is associated
with grace
The poppy, the
and purity. iris, narcissus and
tulip are textile
Paisley motifs are motifs inspired
stylized representa- by Mughal art.
tions of the mango
and cypress.
Marble inlay can be traced
to Mughal pietra dura
(see pp160–61). Agra still has
families of craftsmen whose
ancestors worked at the
Mughal court.
Wall paintings
are often inspired
by nature.
Varsha (Jul–Sep)
With the monsoon comes
Janmashtami, the birth of
Lord Krishna on a moonless
night. Celebrations reach
their peak at midnight, while
the day is given to fasting.
The Urs, one of the biggest
Muslim fairs in the subcontinent, Muslim pilgrims gathered at the Urs in Ajmer
takes place in Ajmer. It is held
over 13 days at the dargah of fireworks to be set alight the festival of lights, marks
the great Sufi saint Moinuddin on the last day, Vijaya Dashami. Rama’s joyous entry into
Chishti (see pp224–5). Onam Dussehra is preceded by Ayodhya when the town
heralds the harvest season the navaratri fasts. Bengalis was lit with lamps to greet
in Kerala, and falls between celebrate this period as Durga him. It also heralds the Hindu
August and September. Puja, when grand marquees New Year when old accounts
Ganesh Chaturthi is a (pandals) are erected over are closed. Hindus believe
10-day event in honour of images of the goddess Durga. that Lakshmi, the goddess
the birth of Lord Ganesha. In October, Id-ul-Fitr marks of wealth, visits her devotees
It is marked by ceremonious the end of Ramadan or on that night, so houses are
processions of Ganesha’s idols. Ramzan, the month of fasting painted, sweets exchanged,
for Muslims, commemorating and a profusion of melas
the period when the Prophet encourages wild spending
received the message of the on homes and clothes.
Koran from Allah. The actual Bhai Duj, two days later,
day of celebration varies is a family festival in honour
according to the sighting of brothers, who give gifts
of the new moon. A special to their sisters.
namaaz is held at Delhi’s Another festival soon after
Jami Masjid. This festival is Diwali is Govardhan Puja
also called Mithi (sweet) Id, or Annakut, celebrated in
as sewian, a delicacy made both Rajasthan and Mathura.
with sweetened vermicelli, It commemorates the day
is prepared in celebration. Lord Krishna lifted the
Govardhan
hillock on his
Painting of Dussehra effigies that Hemant (Nov–Jan) little finger to
will later be set alight The onset of the winter season protect the
ushers in cool days and a large area from a
Sharad (Sep–Oct) number of festivals. Diwali, or deluge sent
This season of festivals begins by an irate Indra,
with Dussehra. For ten days, the god of rain.
Ramlilas (see p34) are held On the full moon A parrot-shaped
and fairs organized to celebrate after Diwali, Sikhs paper kite
the legend of Rama. These celebrate Guru
dramatize episodes from the Purab, the birthday of Guru
Ramayana: the exile of Rama, Nanak, the founder of Sikhism.
his brother Lakshman and In Rajasthan, the Pushkar Fair
wife Sita. Her abduction by (see pp220–21) attracts throngs
the demon-king Ravana of of tourists as well as pilgrims
Lanka and the epic battle for and herdsmen. Christmas
her rescue glorifies the monkey and New Year, now national
god, Hanuman, who helped festivals, are celebrated with
Rama defeat Ravana and return flair all over the country.
in triumph to Ayodhya. Huge At this time, restaurants fill
effigies of Ravana, his brother A variety of Diwali crackers are available and brightly-lit streets bustle
and his son are stuffed with at pavement stalls during the festival with throngs of busy shoppers.
42 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Summer (Mar–Jun)
From mid-March until June
the North Indian plains
experience a hot and dry
summer. The temperatures
in March and April can be mild
and variable, but by May and
June the heat builds up to a
crescendo with the mercury
rising up to 46° C (114° F).
This is a signal for many
residents to move to the
Himalayan hill stations. Those
who stay back remain indoors Procession of Buddhist lamas on Buddha Jayanti
and only venture out after
sunset. Most festivities, too, symbolize Hindu-Muslim Bejewelled images of the
come to a halt at this point. unity. Its origins date to the goddess are carried through
Holi (Mar). This exuberant late-17th century when local the city, escorted by bullock-
festival of colour marks the leaders decided to merge drawn chariots, bands of
end of winter. In and around festivities held concurrently musicians and women
Brindavan (see p166), Holi at both shrines. Today, this singing hymns. Shankarlal
celebrations last two weeks. is more a fun-filled carnival Sangeet Sammelan (Mar),
Elephant Festival (Mar), than a religious event (see Delhi. This is the capital’s
Jaipur. Around Holi, 60 p87). Jahan e Khusrau (Mar), oldest classical vocal and
decorated elephants parade Delhi. The three-day instrumental music festival.
through the streets bearing international Sufi music Baisakhi (13 Apr). On this day
revellers who throw colour at festival is one of the city’s Gobind Singh, the last Sikh
one another. Elephant polo most eagerly awaited events. guru, founded the Khalsa, the
matches are also held at Performances are held at “Holy Army of the Pure”. Gala
Chaugan Stadium. Humayun’s tomb. ITC Sangeet processions, dancing
Nauchandi Mela (Mar), Sammelan (Mar), Delhi and feasting mark the
Meerut. Held around (sometimes held in Calcutta). occasion. It also signals the
the shrine of a Muslim This important Hindustani onset of summer and the
saint and a temple, classical music event, start of the harvest season.
this fair has come to sponsored by a major Indian Urs (Apr), Delhi. For three days
industrial house, devotees of the Sufi saint
Elephant attracts music- Nizamuddin Auliya (see p86)
Festival lovers from far celebrate his birth anniversary
and wide. with night-long qawwalis and
Gangaur a funfair. Buddha Jayanti
Festival (May), Delhi. The Buddha’s
(Mar/Apr), birth, his attaining
Jaipur. For enlightenment, and his death
18 days, all fell on the full moon of the
new brides fourth lunar month. Prayer
and young girls meetings are held at Delhi’s
worship Gauri, one of the Buddha Jayanti Park. National
manifestations of Parvati, Film Festival (Jul), Delhi.
the consort of Shiva. During this two-week-long
DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR THROUGH THE YEAR 43
Monsoon (Jul–Aug)
July, August and most of
September are hot and humid
with intermittent showers.
All newspapers eagerly report
the progress of the southwest
monsoon and though rainfall is
scanty in the region, this season Popular belief maintains that a dancing peacock heralds the much-awaited monsoon
is celebrated for its magical
transformation of the earth. Raksha Bandhan (full moon in are performed, and in Delhi,
Mango Festival (early Jul), Delhi. Aug). Young girls tie sacred there are shows of Krishna
Held at the peak of the threads (rakhis) on their brothers’ Katha, a dance-drama on the
mango season, over wrists as a token of love, and Krishna story.
1,000 varieties of receive in exchange gifts and a
delicious mangoes promise of everlasting protection. National Holidays
grown in North Janmashtami (Aug). Krishna’s
India are on birth is celebrated all over Republic Day (26 Jan)
view at the India. In Brindavan, Raslilas Independence Day (15 Aug)
Talkatora Gandhi Jayanti (2 Oct)
Stadium.
Teej (Aug), Public Holidays
Jaipur. Young Shivaratri (Feb)
Shehnai player girls, dressed Holi (Mar)
at Teej in green, sing Id-ul-Zuha (Mar)
songs and play
on specially erected swings. Good Friday (Apr)
This joyous event venerates Baisakhi (13 April)
Parvati, the goddess of marital Ramnavami (Apr)
harmony. It also heralds Mahavir Jayanti (Apr/May)
the advent of the much
Buddha Jayanti (May)
awaited monsoon.
Independence Day (15 Aug). Milad-ul-Nabi (May/Jun)
This is a national holiday, Janmashtami (Aug)
commemorating India’s Dussehra (Oct)
freedom from British rule
Diwali (Oct/Nov)
in 1947. The Prime Minister
addresses the nation from Guru Purab (Nov)
the ramparts of the historic Public gathering for the Prime Minister’s Christmas (25 Dec)
Red Fort in Delhi. speech on Independence Day, Red Fort
44 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Early Civilizations
Indian civilization first flourished between 2500 and
s
du
Ga
1500 BC in the Harappan settlements along the River Indus. I n Mathura ng
es
These sophisticated urban settlements, with an underground
drainage system and well laid out streets, were spread over an
area much larger than either ancient Egypt or Mesopotamia.
The reasons for the decline of this early civilization are still
unclear, but by 1500 BC, the Aryans, who had entered India
through the passes of the Hindu Kush, had settled down in Early Civilizations
northwest India. Sacred texts such as the Rig Veda record Extent of Indus Valley Civilization
aspects of their culture. By 600 BC, with the gradual adoption Extent of Aryan settlements
of widespread crop cultivation, several new urban sites had
emerged in the Ganges Valley. Many of these were capitals
of independent kingdoms, and some cities of that age, such
as Mathura, Patna and Varanasi, still exist.
Harappan Culture
The Indus Valley (or Harappan) The Origin of Life
Civilization (2500–1500 BC) had an An 18th-century painting
efficient system of government based on depicting the popular Hindu
trade and a thriving agricultural economy. myth that life was created
Worshippers of a mother goddess and when the divine nectar (amrit),
trees, they used water for ritual practice. hidden in the Ocean of Milk,
These Harappan artifacts are in the was won by the gods from
National Museum. the demons (see p29).
Ancient Empires
Under the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, North India saw its
first large-scale empire. Contact with Central Asia, which
began around 200 BC, determined crucial political alliances
after the Mauryas, and by the 1st century AD, the Kushanas
from Central Asia had an empire that extended as far as the
Ganges Valley. This period also saw the rise and spread of
Buddhism. In the 4th century, the Gupta kings presided over
the flowering of classical Sanskrit at the hands of writers such Early Empires
as Kalidasa. The emergence of the Holy Trinity (see pp28–9) Mauryan Empire
and temple worship also date from the Gupta Age. Kushana Empire
Gupta Empire
Ashokan Edict
(3rd century BC)
Considered valuable
historical records, such
rock edicts, installed
throughout his kingdom,
proclaim Ashoka’s ethical
code (dhamma) as well
as important events.
273–232 BC
180–165 BC Foundation
Ashoka’s reign of Indo-Greek empire AD 78–110 Reign of
261 BC Battle of Kalinga by Demetrius Kushana king Kanishka;
80 BC Maues, Shaka king
leads Ashoka to Fourth Buddhist Council 2nd-century Buddhist
in northwest India
embrace Buddhism held in Kashmir begging bowl
200 BC 100 BC AD 1 AD 100 200
Vasantasena, a courtesan,
slumped in a drunken state,
is helped to her feet.
Gandhara
Sculpture
After the 1st
century AD, a
Mathura School of Art distinct Hellenistic
style first emerged in Gandhara in
Between the 1 st and 6th centuries
the northwest. The Buddha was
AD, a renowned school of art now depicted in a sublime human
flourished at Mathura (see p165). form, rather than through symbols
Statues of Jain, Buddhist and such as the lotus and chakra, with
Hindu divinities, with remarkably expressions that recall classical
expressive faces, were produced Greek sculpture.
along with secular art such as this
dramatic 2nd-century Kushana
panel, The Drunken Courtesan.
Iron pillar
300–399 Ramayana, Mahabharata 500–527 Hun control
compiled. Bhagavad Gita written over North India 630–44 Hiuen
Tsang, a Chinese
375–415 Reign of 399–414 Chinese Buddhist scholar,
Chandragupta II traveller Fa Hsien travels in India
in India
300 400 500 600 700
Rajput Dynasties
Rajput clans rose to prominence in North India from Delhi
TOMARS
CHAUHANS
the late 7th century. Claiming a high caste warrior status Sambhar KACHHAWAHAS
CHANDELLAS
(kshatriya), they traced their lineage to the sun and moon PARAMARS
Sacred Beliefs
Rajput kings were patrons
of Hinduism and worshipped
martial gods such as Hanuman Sati Sites
(see p201) and Shakti. They Hand imprints mark the sites where
were also prolific builders women immolated themselves by
of beautiful temples. jumping into their husband’s funeral
pyre. This cruel practice, called sati,
was made illegal in 1829.
800 Shankaracharya,
11th-century copper the Hindu philosopher,
plate inscriptions challenges Buddhism
of a Rajput king, and Jainism
A Rajput court dress
Raja Chachuka
THE HISTORY OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 53
Where to See
Rajput India
Amber (see pp204–5)
The ruler and the jungle fort at
epitomizes Ranthambhore (see pp228–
the best of
Rajput chivalry
9) are some famous Rajput
and valour. forts in this region. The
museum inside the City
Palace, Jaipur (see pp192–3)
and Alwar (see p210) display
private collections. The
National Museum, New
Delhi, also has a wide
display of Rajput miniature
Weapons are an paintings (see pp36–7),
essential part of sculpture and jewellery.
a Rajput’s attire.
A Royal Procession
Rajput princes enjoyed a divine status in the eyes
of their clan. Rajputana, literally the land of
princes, once had some 21 kingdoms ruled by
rival clans which included the Sisodias of Mewar,
Kachhawahas of Amber and Jaipur, Rathors of
Marwar and Bikaner, Haras of Kota and Bundi,
Amber Fort (see pp204–5)
Chauhans of Ajmer, and Bhattis of Jaisalmer.
Ceramic Tiles
Jamali Kamali
(see p115) has
fine examples of
this Islamic art.
Qutbuddin Aibak
built the first storey of
the Qutb Minar and a
mosque to proclaim his
victory over the Rajputs.
Illustrated Koran (17th century)
The noble Islamic art of calligraphy was
introduced by Muslim rulers and used to
embellish royal decrees, manuscripts and
copies of the Koran, as well as buildings.
Quwwat-ul-Islam,
which means
“Might of Islam”,
was the first
congregational
mosque in Delhi.
Madrasa
and tomb of
Alauddin Khilji
Persian Wheel
The water wheel came in the wake of Muslim
rule. Its simple technology is still used in rural
areas to draw underground water for irrigation.
1266–87 Reign of
1210–36 Reign of Balban
1192 Defeat of Prithviraj Iltutmish
Chauhan in Second Battle 1236–40 Reign of
of Tarain at the hands of Razia, first woman
Sultanate weaponry
Muhammad Ghori ruler of Delhi
THE HISTORY OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 55
Nizamuddin Auliya
Mystic sages called Sufis were
Alai Darwaza was among the immigrants from
built by Alauddin Central Asia. This 17th-century
Khilji in 1311. miniature shows Nizamuddin
Auliya (see p86) with the poet
Amir Khusrau. Together, they
raised metaphysical love,
poetry and music to the
level of divine worship. Begumpuri Masjid (see p113)
Music
Amir Khusrau, poet
and musician, is said to
have introduced the
multi-stringed sitar and
the raga style to North
Indian music.
Iran and the Tudors of England, were one of the greatest Fatehpur
Sikri
Agra
Hierarchy of nobles
depended on the rank
given by the emperor.
Mughal Art
A ruby-studded ceremonial
gold spoon, Jahangir’s
jade wine cup, a gold
enamelled glass hookah
base and Mughal miniature
paintings (see pp36–7) offer
vivid glimpses of the Mughals’
extravagant patronage of art.
A railing
separated the
imperial circle
from lower
state officials.
British officer
killing a rebel leader
at Fatehpur.
Economic Exploitation
A 19th-century lithograph Indian rebels led by
shows the impoverishment disgruntled princes
ultimately lost the war.
of cotton ginners as cheap
English mill-made cloth
flooded the Indian market.
1750 1775
1739 A Maratha
Nadir Shah invades Delhi 1764 soldier
Battle of Buxar gives the 1771
Company the Diwani of Marathas occupy Delhi
Bengal and the right to 1770
collect revenue Great Bengal Famine
THE HISTORY OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 59
Palanquins transported
rebel princes and gentlefolk Indian Sepoys
The plains of North to the scene of battle. The Company’s commercial interests
India were the main were protected by its military
battle areas. establishment, which employed
Indian foot soldiers called sepoys.
Where to See
European India
Sardhana (see p146) has a
cathedral built by Begum
Samroo, the Indian wife of
Walter Reinhardt, a European
mercenary. Meerut’s church,
where the first shots of the
sepoy mutiny were fired,
survives in mint condition
(see p146). The cantonments
in Meerut and Agra, the
Agra cemetery (see p156)
and St James’s Church in Delhi
(see p105) are other sites that
go back to the time of the
Indian Mutiny.
1856 Annexation
1835 Company strikes its own coins of Oudh leads
omitting Mughal emperor’s name to wide public
Queen Victoria’s head on a outrage against
Company coin Oudh’s Nawab the Company
Wajid Ali Shah
60 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
Pax Britannica
The foundation of British rule, or the Raj, was laid only after Delhi
the Indian Mutiny, which truly revealed the unpopularity of RAJPUTANA
Jaipur
Gwalior
Calcutta
the East India Company. An Act of Parliament in 1858 brought
its rule to a close and its Indian territories became part of Bombay
Britain’s empire. India was now ruled directly by the Crown Madras
Northern Gate of
the Jami Masjid.
Indian attendants in
viceregal livery re-enact
a Mughal procession.
1875
Raj Cuisine
While kebabs, curry
and rice became
a part of British
culinary preference,
Westernized Indians
took to drinking
tea and nibbling
biscuits. An early
20th-century biscuit
tin label reflects this
exchange of tastes.
A Sahib Travelling
A vast rail network was set up by the British to
facilitate commerce and travel. This lithograph
of first-class travel, a privilege of “whites only”,
is from the 19th century.
Caparisoned
Where to See British India
elephants carry Crowds line the streets to Raisina Hill and the surrounding
the new rulers. see the grand spectacle. area (see pp72–3), Agra’s St John’s
College (see p156), and Mayo College
(see p223) in Ajmer are examples
of colonial architecture. Delhi’s
Coronation Memorial (see p107)
and the University area (see p107)
are other sites with a Raj connection.
1900
Delhi
Indians a platform from which to demand freedom from Chauri Chaura
Champaran
foreign rule. Their ideology was provided by Gandhi, whose Dandi Calcutta
Rabindranath Tagore
1913 Rabindranath 1914 Canada refuses Indians
Tagore wins the Nobel aboard the ship Kamagata Maru
1907 Congress splits Prize for Literature permission to land
at Surat between the
moderates and extremists 1915 Home Rule League
started by Annie Besant
1910 1920
New Delhi
New Delhi was Where to See the
declared the Raj’s
capital in 1911. This
Freedom Movement
early photo shows The National Archives (see
Parliament House, p75) and the Gandhi Smriti
then the Legislative (see p82) have a permanent
Assembly building. exhibition on the Freedom
Movement. Panels on this
theme are also displayed at
the Jawahar Pavilion in Pragati
Maidan (see p89). Teen Murti
House (see p82) offers a
view of Nehru’s life.
Nehru and Jinnah
Gandhi delivered Prominent lawyers who
his powerful mes-
joined Gandhi’s national
sage of freedom at
public meetings. movement, they enjoyed
an iconic status in India Gandhi Samadhi, Rajghat
and Pakistan after (see p101)
Independence.
Mahatma Gandhi
Called Mahatma (“great spirit”), MK Gandhi
returned to India from South Africa in 1915
as a protest against apartheid. He travelled
across the subcontinent, launching a moral
crusade that encouraged non-violent Civil
Disobedience against colonial rule.
rights are safeguarded and well represented. The three Population Figures
major national political parties are the Congress, the Growth of population
Rural India
More than half the
country’s population
lives in its villages.
An adult literacy
programme is
under way to
educate the
disadvantaged,
particularly women.
Cricket
Introduced by the
British, this game
is now a national
obsession. Recently
retired Sachin
Tendulkar, the “little
master”, is regarded by
many as the greatest
batsman since
Donald Bradman.
Industrial Development
Nehru, the architect of the country’s industrial base,
hailed factories as the new temples of modern India.
India is now a major industrial power with a huge
workforce of skilled workers.
Protest Rallies
India’s vibrant democracy expresses itself
through popular protest (dharna) in which
women figure prominently. The Narmada
Bachao activists, seen here, have mobilized
women and displaced tribal people against
the World Bank-funded Narmada Dam.
Contemporary Literature
India has a rich writing
tradition in all languages.
The White Tiger, written by
Aravind Adiga (right), won
the Man Booker Prize in
The Republic Day Parade 2008. The Lives of
Others, by Neel
A magnificent parade on 26 January celebrates Mukherjee, was
the day when India became a republic in 1950. shortlisted for the
A colourful flypast, folk dances and floats display Man Booker in
its pluralistic society, and the president, as head of 2014, as was The
the republic, takes the salute at Rajpath. Lowland, by
Jhumpa Lahiri,
the year before.
Delhi at a Glance
Situated along the Yamuna river, Delhi was built
by the British in the 1930s and is the youngest of
several historic cities that have occupied this site.
Now a noisy and chaotic metropolis of 25 million
people and a mélange of shanty settlements and
smart colonies, it is still dotted with the remains
of its interesting past. There are museums and
art galleries with impressive collections, and
its shops offer a tempting array of handicrafts.
Delhi is a major cultural centre of the country CHAND NI CHOW K
with music, dance and art events held
throughout the year. The Jami
Masjid (see p96)
Q U TA
is the largest
Connaught Place congregational
B
(see p80), was built mosque in OLD DELHI
RO A D
in the 1930s as the Asia with lively (See pp92–101)
business centre bazaars in the AS
AF
of New Delhi, surrounding lanes. AL
CHE LMS F O R D R O A D
I
ROA
in concentric D
AD
circles round a
PA
NC
RO
HK
central park. Its UI
ND
AN
stately colonnaded
NA
RO
AD
KA
corridors contain
VE
shops and offices.
VI
MG
GH
SIN
K
RA
G
A
KA
AR
KH
BA
M
ST
BA
UR
AD
BA
NS
SA
MARG
GA
TA
AS
HO NEW DELHI
ND
L K (See pp70–83)
KA
HI
TO
RA RO
COPERNICUS
MG
N T AD
CE RO
ES AD
CR
A
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD
TERES
R AJPATH
MO
ER
TIL
RO
TH
NE
HR
JA
M
designed by Edwin Lutyens and
SH
G
JA N PAT H
TE
EN
occupies the crest of Raisina Hill. M A D
UR RO
Its forecourt is the venue for TI
M B AR
G AK
colourful state pageantry.
AD
AD
O
BR
RO
G ZE
R AN
AU
AJ
IR
HV
LO D I
most comprehensive RO AD
LO DI
collection of antiquities
in the country. This
2nd-century Sunga
panel of a grieving
woman is part of a
stunning section on sculpture
from various periods and places.
The beautiful 27-petalled Lotus Temple, better known as the Baha’i House of Worship
D E L H I AT A G L A N C E 69
RI
NG
RO
A
D
RIN
GA
BHA
ND
G
HI
RO
SH
AD
MA R G
MARG
The Crafts
Museum
ROAD
(see pp90–91)
complex offers an
insight into India’s
cultural, craft and
rural traditions. The
museum exhibits
textiles, folk art and
M AT H U R A
objects of everyday
RG
RIN
MA
use in terracotta,
G
ROAD
ROA
D
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
MA
H AT
MA
DR
ZA
GA
KI
NIZAMUDDIN TO
ND
RH
HI
U
PURANA QILA
SS
AI
(See pp84–91)
MA
N
M
RG
AR
G
M
AT
HU
RA
ROAD
RO
AD
NEW DELHI
The British built New Delhi, between 1911 processional avenue leading to India
and 1931, to be the showcase of the Empire. Gate, is now Rajpath, where every
On Independence, this grand imperial capital 26 January the Republic Day Parade
became the official and bureaucratic centre is held (see p75). The National Museum
of the new Indian nation. Today, the former is on Janpath. To the north are Connaught
Viceroy’s House is the president’s residence, Place, the Birla Mandir and the cultural
and ministers and civil servants live nearby in complex at Mandi House. Despite strict
spacious bungalows along the tree-lined security restrictions, New Delhi is the
avenues. Kingsway, the east-west city’s most impressive area.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Streets and Plazas Gardens Restaurants pp250–52
1 Rashtrapati Bhavan t Lodi Gardens 1 Big Chill
2 Vijay Chowk Shops and Markets 2 Daniell’s Tavern
4 Rajpath 3 Dhaba
0 Connaught Place
6 India Gate 4 Elan
y Khan Market
Churches and Temples 5 Khan Chacha
Theatres and Art Galleries 6 Kwality
3 Cathedral Church of Redemption
8 Mandi House Complex 7 Latitude 28
q Lakshmi Narayan Mandir
8 Lodi Garden Restaurant
Museums 9 Pind Balluchi
5 National Museum 10 Saravana Bhavan
7 National Gallery of Modern Art 11 Sevilla
e Nehru Memorial Museum and Library 12 Smokehouse Bar & Grill
r Gandhi Smriti 13 Spice Route
Monuments 14 The Shim Tur
15 Triveni Tea Terrace
9 Ugrasen’s Baoli
C HEL M SF O R D R D
New
Delhi 16 Varq
w Jantar Mantar PA R ROA
D
N BAZAA 17 Veda
CH MAIN
KU 18 Wasabi
IA
N
RG
MA
RK Ashram RO
Marg AD
CHO
IRA
IR
Shivaji D
BHAI VIR SINGH MG
ND
Bridge EEN
W
D
MA
(IN
K)
SI N GH M AR G Rajiv Chowk YA
CON
UP L
AM
AD
U B
S
KA AU
HR
Shivaji C HYA
CIR
N
LI G HTRA A
AK
AS
Stadium
BA AR RO KHA Barakhamba Rd YA M
A
RI
KA
KH MG AD M B G
HN
RO
BA H
MG
AD A
ST
BA SING
IS
Tilak
KR
Mandi
UR
Bridge
LSTOY MG
AD
MA
House S I KAN D R
TO A RD
BA
AS
NS
RA
PANDIT PANT MG
C OPERNICUS MARG
Janpath
J A N PAT H
HO AD
SA
GA
TA K Patel RO
G
M AT H U R A
L
ND
KA Chowk H
AR
0 metres 750 TO RO S HA
HI
T E
KIDWAI MG
NORTH AVE
RA AD OZ
EN
M
SC FER
MG
750 RO
RE
0 yards
AD RD AS
HO
NA
K
C
ISI K
LA
RA RD
A
NA
T E RE S
PU A RD
ROAD
GARDENS
QIL
R A J PAT H
SINGH RD
M AN
R
SOUTH AVENUE
Udhyog
HE
T Bhawan
HY MO
OT
RO
A AD
PANDARA
MA GA TIL
RO
DR
N
M
AL
ME
R G R AJ
RD
HA
KR ON M
A NE
H R 16 18
•
ZA
N
JA
AR
ISH G
U
AH
B
KIR
RAJ A JI MG
MG
J A N PATH
AK
Khan
NA
SH
MG
Market
TE
HU
EN TI
MU AR
SS
RT 3•11 BH
AI
I M M
MAKARIOS MG
IA
N
ARCHBISHOP
G AN
Race AD
AD
M A H ARI SHI RA
AM
M
Course RO
BR
RO
AR
EB SU
MG
SA
Z
G
NG DELHI GO LF
MAX MUELLER
FD
RA
AJ
CO URSE
AU
AR
TUG
IR
JU
HV
H LU
NG
M AN
IT
LOD I
D
ROA
PR
G A RD EN S
Q R
RO
LO D I
M
D
AD
ROAD
See also Street Finder LO D I
maps 1, 2, 5
The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap
72 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Sansad Bhavan is
also known as
North Block has Parliament House.
an imposing
Central Hall
which is open
to the public.
D
A
O
R
IE
S
U
O
The Iron Gates L
H
Copied from a pair A
D
Lutyens saw in
Chiswick, England,
these are held by
highly ornamental
sandstone gateposts.
TH
OLD DELHI
NEW DELHI
NIZA
MUDDIN
TO
PURANA
QILA
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4
Sunehri Bagh
This gently curving street leads to a picturesque
roundabout with a simple 18th-century mosque
built by a pir called Sayyid Sahib. Shady trees are Roundabout
a standard feature of all Lutyens’s avenues. Beautifully
landscaped road
intersections are a
Udyog haven for workers
Bhavan during lunch.
Vayu Bhavan
India Gate
S
U
J
N
A
H
R
E
A
R
M
I
B
A
A
K
GH
ROA
D
D
A
KR
ISH
O
NA
R
ME
IX
NO
N M
E
A RG
L
P
U
D
Statue of Kamaraj
Kumarasami Kamaraj
was Congress Party
President (1963–7).
0 metres 25
0 yards 25
. Bungalow-lined Avenues
Strict building bylaws preserve the original
Key
architecture of the colonial bungalows in
the tree-lined avenues of this area. Suggested route
74 DELHI AREA BY AREA
2 Vijay Chowk
Map 4 F2. N Block: Open 9am–6pm
Mon–Fri. Sansad Bhavan: Open 11am–
5pm Tue–Sat. Visit is subject to
Parliament not being in session.
Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), where the Constitution of India was drafted
NEW DELHI 75
3 Cathedral Church for the Arts (IGNCA), with an Hyderabad House where official
of the Redemption archive of rare manuscripts. state banquets are held, and
It holds many national and Jaipur, Bikaner, Patiala and
1 Church Rd, North Avenue. Map 4 E1.
international exhibitions Baroda Houses.
Tel (011) 2309 4229. Open 8am–noon;
4–6pm daily.
and symposia.
5 National Museum
Five millennia of Indian history can be explored at
the National Museum, with a collection of more than
200,000 pieces of Indian art. The nucleus collection of
about 1,000 artifacts was sent to London in the winter
of 1948–9 for an exhibition at the Royal Academy. After
its return, it was housed in the Durbar Hall of Rashtrapati
Bhavan until the present building was complete in 1960.
The collection of Indus Valley relics and Central Asian treasures
from the Silk Route is considered among the finest in the . Dara Shikoh’s
world. Some sections of the museum are undergoing Marriage Procession
An 18th-century Mughal
renovation and exhibits may not be on display. miniature painting in gold
and natural pigments.
Ground floor
. Kubera
A rare example of
a Hindu god shown
as a 2nd-century
Kushana (see pp50–51)
Library
grandee with marked
Central Asian features
is among a large
collection of
Mathura Art.
Harappan Civilization
Gallery
Gold Brocade
This pretty 18th-
century purple silk
Baluchari sari is
Copper Plates embellished
Gallery with motifs in
gold thread.
Second floor
. Illuminated Koran
First floor A superb example of the elegant
Islamic art of calligraphy, this
gilded 18th-century Koran is
one of a collection that also has
a 8th-century Koran in the ancient
Kufic script. The latter is among
the oldest of its kind in the world.
Key to Floorplan
Ancient & Medieval Sculptures
Chola Bronzes, Jewellery,
Wood Carving
Gallery Guide
Buddhist Art, Decorative Art
The collection is displayed on three floors, grouped
Central Asian Antiquities, according to theme, epoch and style. The central
Indian Manuscripts and
Coins, Wall Paintings foyer itself has a display of sculptures from various
Early Man parts of the country. The museum also has a library
and auditorium where film shows and lectures are
Pre-Columbian and Western Art
regularly held. Information on these is published in the
Ajanta Paintings, newspapers, and material regarding catalogues and
Thanjavur Paintings, Indian
Miniature Paintings souvenirs can be found at the ticket office in the foyer.
Textiles, Arms and Armour, The display is changed from time to time for variety,
Musical Instruments and special exhibitions are also held.
78 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Decorative Arts
The immense variety of
India’s decorative arts fills
two adjoining galleries. Even
everyday objects, such as a
19th-century silver rosewater
sprinkler from Delhi, or a
hookah base enamelled
in blue and green from
18th-century Rajasthan
have individual flourishes.
Court patronage ensured that
artists fashioned innumerable Durga Killing Demon Raktabija, Malwa, c.1640
objets d’art to delight royal
whims. Thus, floral arabesques timeless relationship. There are
adorn a 17th-century Mughal also hunting scenes from Kota Textiles, Arms and
degcha (cooking pot). Daintily where the depiction of nature Armour, Musical
carved ivory statues and artifacts is real and vibrant. Court Instruments
and elegant Hyderabad bidri painters at Mewar produced The textile collection displays
ware, delicately inlaid with silver, detailed depictions of a a selection of Indian weaving
are also on display. variety of royal pursuits techniques, including the world
ranging from court activities famous gold and silk brocades
to recreation and leisure. of Varanasi from the Mughal
Basholi paintings period; ikat and tie-and-dye from
with their bold and Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat; and
intense colours, and 19th-century kantha embroidery
delicate portraits from from Bengal in intricate hemstitch.
Guler are part of the Also worth noting is a hand-
large collection of embroidered rumal from
Pahari paintings from Golconda dating to 1640.
the northern hill states. The Arms and Armour
An 18th-century bidri Deccani art from Hyderabad, Gallery has the 18th-century
ware jewel box a fusion of the Islamic idiom painted rhinohide shield of
with indigenous styles, the Rajput king, Maharana
produced masterpieces Sangram Singh.
Indian Miniatures such as A Picnic Party (early The Musical Instruments
Over 350 paintings from a 18th century). Also on display Gallery has some artifacts
large collection of 18,000 are are later provincial schools that that are over 200 years old,
on display in the new miniature developed after the Mughals, including an ivory inlaid
gallery. There are some Mughal as well as Company art, tanpura (a stringed instrument)
masterpieces from the Jahangir produced for the British from the 18th century. The
and Shah Jahan period, from the mid-18th century. core collection was donated
including the famous Jahangir by Sharan Rani, a famous
Holding the Picture of Madonna sarod player.
(c.1620) and Camel Fight Central Asian Antiquities
(c.1615–20). Insightful portraits Sir Aurel Stein’s collection of
of the Mughal rulers Babur, treasures (see p76) discovered
Jahangir, Shah Jahan, and from the legendary Silk Route
other court personalities such in Chinese Turkestan comprises
as Tansen, the legendary court this invaluable section.
musician of Akbar’s time, bring Included are paintings on
Mughal history to life. silk (3rd century) and a
Also on view are a selection 10th-century caravan scene
of Ragamala series depicting on paper from Dun-huang
the mood of each raga. The in China that re-create the
Rajasthani miniatures illustrate romance of those times.
Hindu mythological themes, Fragments of another fabu-
particularly the devotional love lous silk painting, Ladies in a
between Krishna and Radha. Garden, from Astana, show
The Kishangarh paintings, Boat lovely-looking women in
of Love and Radha and Krishna, elaborate coiffures with
both mid-18th century, bring impressive gold filigree pins, An intricately-woven, 17th-century
lyricism and beauty to this lounging among blossoms. jamawar shawl
80 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Athpula, the 17th-century bridge near the entrance to Lodi Gardens on South End Road
DELHI AREA BY AREA 85
NIZAMUDDIN
TO PURANA QILA
The Nizamuddin area, named after the Mughal emperor. In this neighbourhood, the
famous 14th-century Sufi saint, Nizamuddin medieval and modern co-exist harmoniously.
Auliya, is bisected by Mathura Road and Busy Mathura Road swirls past the Subz Burj
has a clearly visible split personality. East tomb with its blue-tiled dome, today a traffic
Nizamuddin is the quieter half, with island. Humayun’s Tomb and the Sundar
Humayun’s Tomb (see p87) resting peacefully Horticulture Nursery are to the west. Further
at the centre of a Persian garden. West north is the up-market residential colony of
Nizamuddin, the old Muslim quarter around Sundar Nagar with antique shops, Delhi Zoo
the saint’s dargah, is a lively basti which still and Purana Qila, the “old fort”(see p88). The
retains its medieval character. This important crumbling battlements of the fort overlook
pilgrim centre also has the graves of famous the Crafts Museum, the small shrine of Matka
poets such as Amir Khusrau and Mirza Ghalib, Pir, a Sufi saint, and the exhibition grounds of
as well as the tombs of Jahanara, the Pragati Maidan. To the east stands the Khair-
daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan, and the ul-Manazil Mosque, built by Maham Anga
dilettante Muhammad Shah Rangila, a later in the mid-16th century.
Monuments
3 Purana Qila Indraprastha
4 Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque
ROA
Museums Pragati
Maidan
ROAD
SH
HA
ER
S HAH RD
TM
A
DR
M AT H U R A
GA
ZA
KI
ND
R
NATIONAL
HI
HU
ZOOLOGICAL
SS
PARK
ROAD
MA
AI
N
RG
M
AR
0 metres 750
G
0 yards 750
M
AT
HU
RA
KI S A R A I R D
AB
Nizamuddin
HARSHA RD
RO
AR
Station
AD
RA
HIM
KH
AN
BA ISBT
RA
RO P U
Sarai Kale
AD L L
Khan
A
H
FL
See also Street Finder map 6 Y OVER
A group of women praying at the Nizamuddin Dargah, Delhi For keys to symbols see back flap
86 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Atgah Khan’s
LA
UR
RA
RO
HI
M
J P AT
AD
Khan i K H A N
the grave of the lowly”. 0 metres 300
•
Khanan’s RO
AD
RAI
BA
RA
Tomb
0 yards 300 PU
LL ER
PAT H
AH V
F LYO Baha'i
Temple
NIZAMUDDIN TO PURANA QILA 87
Geometric designs
inlaid on panels
Jaalis
Such fine trellis
work in stone later
became a signature
Mughal feature.
5 Crafts Museum
For centuries, Indian craftsmen, such as potters and
weavers, masons and carvers, have created a range
of objects for everyday use that are both beautiful
and practical. A unique project was started in 1956 to
promote indigenous artisans by displaying their work
in one place, and by the early 1980s, over 20,000 Wooden ritual mask
objects had been collected. This was the core around of Bhima
which grew India’s first Crafts Museum.
. Bandhini Odhni
This exquisite veil is the work of the
Khatri community in Bhuj, Gujarat.
In tie-and-dye (bandhini), grains are
used to set the pattern. Threads
are tied around them and the
cloth dyed in different colours.
Key
Gallery of Aristocratic Arts
Gallery of Ritual Arts
Gallery of Folk and Tribal Cultures
Collection of Handicrafts
Gallery of Textiles
Administration Block Saranga
Temporary Exhibition Gallery Amphitheatre
Visual Store
Gallery Guide
The museum’s display is spread over two floors
Crafts Demonstration Area of the complex, divided into separate areas by
Artisans from all over India set courtyards that also double up as exhibition
up workshops each month spaces. A large open area is designated for live
(barring the monsoon) to art displays by visiting artisans each month,
display their skill to visitors. except during the rainy season.
NIZAMUDDIN TO PURANA QILA 91
Mukhalinga
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A rare, late 19th-
century brass
Practical Information
and silver phallic
Bhairon Marg, Pragati Maidan.
image (linga)
Map 6 D2. Tel (011) 2337 1887.
with a human
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
face (mukha).
Closed Mon, public hols. & = -
Crafts demonstration: Open 10am–
6pm daily. Closed Jul–Sep.
∑ nationalcraftsmuseum.nic.in
. Charakku
These enormous, circular vessels
are cast of an alloy known as bell
metal. They are still used in Kerala
for wedding feasts or at temples
for making payasam (a type of rice
pudding) for devotees during festivals.
Kalamkari panel
This traditional hand-painted textile
from Andhra Pradesh depicts
a female deity with 12 arms.
. Bhuta Figure
These life-sized wooden
figures were made
200 years ago as part
of the Bhuta cult of
spirit worship in
the southern state
of Karnataka.
Library
Entrance
Jain shrine
This 18th-century wooden
shrine from Gujarat once
belonged to a wealthy
Shvetambara Jain family. Lota, Crafts Museum Shop
It features elaborate wood Located on the premises of the
carvings of elephants, Crafts Museum, the shop sells a
celestial musicians and wide selection of fine Indian folk
the Goddess Laxmi. crafts and textiles.
DELHI AREA BY AREA 93
OLD DELHI
What is known as Old Delhi today was orig- called galis and katras, of the walled city.
inally the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad, In 1739, the Persian freebooter Nadir Shah
built by Shah Jahan when he moved the came to plunder the city of Shahjahanabad
imperial court from Agra to Delhi. Construc- and left a bleeding ruin behind him. The final
tion began in 1638, and ten years later the deathblow was, however, dealt when the
Red Fort, Jami Masjid, Chandni Chowk and British troops moved into the Red Fort after
the surrounding residential and mercantile the Mutiny of 1857, turning it into a military
quarters were ready for occupation. garrison, while a railway line cut the walled
The city was surrounded by a rubble wall city in half. Yet, the spirit of the place has
pierced by 14 gates of which three – Delhi, survived all these vicissitudes and its busy
Turkman and Ajmeri – survive. An elegant, galis continue to support a vibrant life.
mannered lifestyle flourished, enriched Modernity has brought a new urgency
by the courtiers and merchants, artists and to the pace of the traditional traders
poets who lived in the lanes and quarters, who still live and operate from here.
SH
YA
M A PR RI
NAYA BAZAAR
AS A NG
Sadar D MUKHERJI M RO
Bazaar ARG AD
H C SEN RD
Chandni
Chowk
KHARI BAOLI
ROAD CHANDNI C HO WK
M A H AT M A
LA
Q U TA
B AL
L
NA
KU
I SA
N E TA
LI
AN
RA
RA
M
SHR
B
BA
K
RA
J
ZA
JI
AD
Chawri Bazaar
ROA
AR
DH
G AN
AZAAR
RO
GH
RI B
AN
SU
D
AD
AW
C H CHU
AN
DH
AT
BH
SI RI
D
TA WALI G
I
ASH
M
RA
AR
AL
M
MA
I
G
BA
AN
BY
Z
RG
SAR
ZA
BA
PA S
M ARG
AA
AR
R RO
CH
S
IT
ROAD
AS
ARG
AF
LI
D
QA
ALI
B H AV B HU T I M
BA
R OA D
D
RO
R
AD
AD AN
ROKAN
TA J AW A H A R L A L N
EHRU MARG
AHARAJA RANJEET
AD
G
RD ORE
VE
RO
SING H MARG
VI
AN
M
RING
RK
MIRDARD M ARG
TU
ROAD
KO
M
DE TL
EN A
DA
YA MARG
L UP
AD
HY
AY
A
M
AR S T H A MA RG
G I ND R A PR A
0 metres 750
0 yards 750
See also Street Finder
maps 1, 2
A view of Old Delhi from the Masjid-i Jahān-Numā, or the Jami Masjid For keys to symbols see back flap
94 DELHI AREA BY AREA
WK
HO
I C
N DN
A
CH
Fatehpuri Masjid
(built in 1650)
R
BAZAA
KINARI
DA
Nai Sarak RI
BA
KA
LA
N
N
IYA
UL
. Kinari Bazaar A R G
C ZA
Tightly packed stalls sell all H BA
manner of glittering gold E
L
and silver trimmings such P
U
as braids, tinsel garlands R
I
and turbans for weddings
and festivals.
Shiv Temple
Karim’s
Tucked away in a lane to the
south of Jami Masjid is Delhi’s
most authentic Mughlai
eatery (see p251). Named after
a legendary 19th-century
Key
chef, the restaurant is now
run by his descendants. Suggested route
OLD DELHI 95
OLD
DELHI
NEW
DELHI NIZAMUDDIN
TO
PURANA
QILA
Locator Map
. Lahore Gate See Street Finder map 2
This imposing red sandstone
gateway is the main entrance to
the Red Fort. The Prime Minister
addresses the Independence
Day rally here.
N
ET
A
JI
SU
BH
A
SH
M
A
RG
ES
P
LA Dariba Kalan
N
A Gold and silver ornaments
D
E are sold in this lane. Gulab
R
O Singh’s famous attar shop
A
D (see p123) is located here.
Karim’s
0 metres
1 . Jami Masjid
25
India’s largest mosque stands on a mound. Its two
0 yards 25 slender minarets flank three marble domes.
96 DELHI AREA BY AREA
RG
MA
E R JI
K H MO RE S AR A I R
MU
NE
OAD
AD
H
RAS
TA
C
A PChandni
Lajpat Rai Kinari Bazaar
SE
JI
AM
Market
specializes in tinsel
N
SH Y Chowk
RO
MAHATMA
accessories, and
SU
AD
CHU
shoppers.
DA
Katra Town
AS
K
RIB
Neel Hall
M IS
OW
A
Sisganj
H
C H Kinari
SI O N
Gurudwara
ES
M
A
I
DN
Bazaar AR
LA
PL
Chunnamal
N
AN G
AN
M
Haveli Meena
A
RD
UR
AR
H
BH A LI
C Bazaar
AD
D
OJP
A
G
RO
BA
I
A OL
LL
I B
CH
RO
AR
I
N
KH M
RIY A
EL
DLE
AN
RE M A
AD
A T N
B A AT R
RA H E A
K A S AN
K AN
N RA T I
PU
S
K
SA Jami
RI
CH R
A Masjid
LI
AR K
GA
KH
IW R
LA AL A
L A G A
KU N A Z
AN LI A
BA B
ZA I
AR
R
CHU GALI
W
RO RI W LAN
A
AD A
H
C
LI
SIT
GA
AR
AM
E R I G AT E RD
BA
LAM B I
ZAA
R R
OA
D
0 metres 500
A JM
Dariba Kalan is
0 yards 500 the jewellers’ lane
where artisans have
worked for over
two centuries.
Churiwali Gali
has garlands of
Nai Sarak is very glass bangles
popular among strung along rods
students as school to match every
and college Chawri Bazaar has sari or lehenga.
textbooks and every conceivable It is popularly
stationery are variety of paper, called the “lane of
sold on this street. sold here by weight. bangle-sellers”.
98 DELHI AREA BY AREA
3 Red Fort
Red sandstone battlements give this imperial citadel its
name, Red Fort (Lal Qila). Commissioned by Shah Jahan
in 1639, it took nine years to build and was the seat
of Mughal power until 1857, when the last emperor,
Bahadur Shah Zafar, was dethroned and exiled. Lahore
Gate, one of the fort’s six gateways, leads on to the
covered bazaar of Chatta Chowk, where brocades and Detail of a Gilded Pillar
jewels were once sold. Beyond this lies the Naqqar The Mughal love of opulence is
Khana, from where musicians played three times a day. visible in the lavish use of marble
and gold in the fort.
Moti Masjid
Named after the pearly
sheen of its marble,
the tiny “pearl mosque”
was added by Emperor
Aurangzeb in 1659.
. Hamams
The royal bath has three
enclosures. The first provided
hot vapour baths, the second
sprayed rose-scented water
through sculpted fountains, and
the third contained cold water.
. Diwan-i-Aam
The emperor gave daily audiences
to all his subjects in this 60-pillared
hall. The intricately carved throne
canopy stands on a platform,
while the low marble bench
was for the chief minister (wazir).
OLD DELHI 99
Khas Mahal
The royal apartments were
divided by the “Stream of
Paradise”. The emperor’s
prayer room (Tasbih Khana)
was flanked by his sleeping
chamber (Khwabgah) and
sitting room (Baithak). This
overlooked the Yamuna river
and led to a balcony where
he appeared before his
subjects at sunrise.
Rang Mahal
Inside these gilded chambers,
once exclusively for women, is an inlaid
marble fountain shaped like an open lotus.
10 9 87 5 6
The Red Fort
1 Delhi Gate
14 2 Lahore Gate
3 Naqqar Khana
11 4 Diwan-i-Aam
13 12 4
5 Rang Mahal
3 6 Moti Mahal
1 7 Khas Mahal
8 Diwan-i-Khas
9 Hamams
10 Shah Burj (Tower)
11 Sawan (Pavilion)
12 Bhadon (Pavilion)
13 Zafar Mahal
2 14 Moti Masjid
Key 0 metres 200
6 Zinat-ul Masjid
Ansari Rd, Daryaganj. Map 2 F3.
q Kashmiri Gate. Open 10am–
5pm daily.
FURTHER AFIELD
There is much to see and explore beyond is a more recent addition, with many affluent
the city centre. An undulating wooded area, suburbs, smart residential colonies, shops,
the Ridge, sweeps across Delhi from the cinemas and restaurants. Further south,
southwest to the north. The north contains the historic Mehrauli Archaeological Park
the university campus and Civil Lines, an encompasses 19th-century hunting lodges,
orderly civilian enclave created by the British, tombs, pavilions and the towering Qutb
and the west houses the army Cantonment. Minar. This picturesque area was the site
South Delhi, juxtaposed between the old of Delhi’s first city, Qila Rai Pithora, built
cities of Siri, Jahanpanah and Tughlaqabad, around Lal Kot, a Tomar Rajput fortress.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Sites Tombs
2 Old Delhi GPO w Safdarjung’s Tomb
5 Civil Lines s Sultan Ghari
8 Delhi University
0 Delhi Cantonment Markets
t Hauz Khas e Dilli Haat 0 kilometres 3
y Siri Fort
0 miles 3
u Chiragh Delhi
i Khirkee
o Jahanpanah
p Mehrauli Archaeological Park pp114–17
d Tughlaqabad
Cemeteries
3 Nicholson Cemetery RO
H TA
KR
OA
PA D
Parks and Gardens TE Red
L
RO Fort
4 Qudsia Gardens A D
7 Northern Ridge
una
TO
9 The Ridge DA
AD
Ya m
PU O
Connaught
R
G
R
AR
Monuments Place
MAHA
M
M
6 Coronation Memorial
RA
TM A
TA
MA
A
India
G
Museums ND Gate 24
DE
HI M
G NH
VAN
RING ROAD
ARG
Delhi
Airport
NH
BINDO M
Key
RD
ELA
AUR
Agra
AN
Major road
LS
NE
Minor road
MEH
RAU
LI B
AD ARP
UR
R O AD
5 km Jaipur Surajkund
The 4th-century iron pillar at the Qutub Complex, Mehrauli For keys to symbols see back flap
104 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Shop Façades
The grand old shops are
now shabby and derelict.
3 Nicholson
. Kashmiri Gate Cemetery
The Mughals used to
set off from this gate
to spend the summer
in Kashmir. In 1857, it
was the scene of a bitter
battle and a plaque on the
western side honours “the
engineers and miners who died NICHOLSON RD
while clearing the gate for British
forces on September 14, 1857”. AD
RO
R CH
C HU
K MARG
LO
T
H
IA
N
R AMLAL CHANHO
R
O
A
D
Fakr-ul-Masjid
The domes and minarets of this small
mosque rise above the rows of shops AR
ZA
and offices along this busy street. Local BA
residents come here to worship every Friday. RA
BA
Key
Suggested route
Old Hindu
College
0 metres
Old St Stephen’s
50
College
0 yards 50
FURTHER AFIELD 105
1 St James’s Church
Lothian Rd, Mori Gate. q Kashmiri
1. St James’s Church Gate. Open 8am–noon; 2–5pm daily.
Delhi’s oldest and most Services: 9am Sun.
historic church, consecrated
in 1836, is an impressive A tablet in the church founded
edifice, painted yellow by Colonel James Skinner
and white. explains: “This church is
erected at the sole expense of
Colonel James Skinner” in fulfil-
ment of a vow made on the
Northern
battlefield. Built at the cost of
Railways Office Rs 80,000, the church (now the
This Indo-Saracenic oldest in Delhi) is in the shape
fantasy was once the of a Greek cross, surmounted
residence of the British by an imposing eight-leafed
Commissioner, William dome. The two stained-glass
Fraser, one of Skinner’s windows were installed in the
closest friends. 1860s. Skinner died at Hansi
(see p144). A marble tablet, in
front of the altar, marks his
simple grave.
CH
UR
CH
RO
AD
5 Civil Lines
Bounded by Shamnath Marg and
Mahatma Gandhi Marg. q Civil Lines.
White-plastered façade of the Oberoi Maidens Hotel in the Civil Lines area
FURTHER AFIELD 107
Purana Qila
Siri, Delhi’s second city,
can still be seen near the
Siri Fort Auditorium and
the adjacent village of
Shahpur Jat (see p112).
The once prosperous
city of Siri was built by
Alauddin Khilji in 1303. Purana Qila, the
citadel (see p88) of
Delhi’s sixth city, was
built by Humayun.
It was captured and
occupied by the Afghan
Siri chieftain, Sher Shah
Sur (r.1540–45) who
Jahanpanah
called it Shergarh.
Tughlaqabad
. Jahaz Mahal
Venue of the
Phoolwalon ki Sair
(see p44), this square
pleasure pavilion,
built during the
Lodi era (1451–1526),
seems to float on the
Hauz-i-Shamsi tank.
KEY
1 Bagichi Masjid
2 Jharna (waterfall) was so-called
because after the monsoon, water
from the Hauz-i-Shamsi would flow
over an embankment into a garden.
3 Hauz-i-Shamsi is a large reservoir
built in 1230 by Iltutmish, who is
supposed to have been guided to
this site by the Prophet in a dream.
4 Zafar Mahal is a palace
named after the nom de plume Madhi Masjid
of the last Mughal emperor, Surrounded by bastions and
Bahadur Shah Zafar. a high wall, this fortress-like
mosque has a large open
5 Mehrauli village courtyard and a three-
6 Dilkusha arched, profusely
ornamented prayer hall.
M E H R A U L I A R C H A E O LO G I C A L PA R K 115
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Anuvrat Marg, Mehrauli.
Open 8am–7pm daily. = m 0
_ Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct).
Transport
q Qutb Minar.
Adham Khan’s Tomb
Built by Akbar in the 16th century,
this was rescued from decay by Lord . Qutb Minar
Curzon (see p61). The Qutb (Arabic for pole or axis)
area saw the advent of Islamic rule
in India. The world’s highest brick
minaret, this is the focus of an early
Islamic complex (see p116).
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
New Delhi
Rajon ki Baoli
This dramatic three-
storeyed stepwell was also
called Sukhi Baoli (dry well).
Nearby is the five-storeyed
Gandhak ki Baoli, named
after its strong sulphur
(gandhak) smell. These
baolis once supplied
fresh water to the area.
Balban’s Tomb
Balban’s 13th-century tomb
lies in a square rubble-built
chamber, open to the sky.
Qutb Minar
The five-storeyed Victory Tower
started by Qutbuddin Aibak
was completed by his
successor, Iltutmish.
Carved Panels
Panels, carved with
inscriptions from
the Koran, embellish
the gateway.
Alai Darwaza
This gateway to the complex, erected in
1311 by Alauddin Khilji, is one of the earliest
buildings in India to employ the Islamic
principles of arched construction (see p30).
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Mehrauli, Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.
Tel (011) 2336 5358. Open 5:30am–
7pm daily. & _ Qutb Festival
(Oct–Nov). 8 = 0
Transport
q Qutb Minar.
Dargah Qutb Sahib, shrine of the Sufi saint Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar “Kaki”
The lotus-domed Baha’i House of Worship, one of Delhi’s most spectacular sights
walls. Adilabad was built f Kalkaji Temple Legend has it that a farmer, on
by Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq Block 9, Lotus Temple Rd, Nehru Place.
discovering that his cow regularly
(r.1325–51), who is believed q Kalkaji Mandir. Open 6am–10pm offered her milk to the goddess,
to have killed his father daily. _ Navaratri (Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct). built this temple in her name.
Ghiyasuddin by contriving
to have a gateway collapse This temple is a good place to
on him. They are both buried see Hinduism in bustling, popular g Baha’i House
in Ghiyasuddin’s Tomb, joined practice. It is approached through of Worship
to the Tughlaqabad Fort by a a narrow winding alley, lined with Bahapur, Kalkaji. Tel (011) 2644 4029.
causeway that crossed the stalls selling laminated religious Open Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
dammed waters of a lake. prints, bangles, sindur (vermilion Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
The tomb was the first in India powder) and fruit, while devotional Closed Mon & public hols. Prayer
to be built with sloping walls, a hymns blast from rival cassette services: 10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm.
design that was repeated in all stalls. The 12-domed temple,
subsequent Tughlaq architecture. with a heavily decorated pillared Just opposite the Kalkaji Temple
Its severe red sandstone walls, pavilion, was built in the mid-18th is the Baha’i House of Worship,
relieved by white marble inlay, century on an older site by Raja a world where silence and order
are surmounted by a white Kedarnath, prime minister of prevails. The arresting shape of its
marble dome. The red sandstone Emperor Akbar II. Thereafter, many unfurling 27-petalled white marble
kalasha (urn) which crowns it and contemporary additions, financed lotus has given it its more popular
the lintel spanning the arched by rich merchants, have been name, the Lotus Temple. The
opening, decorated with a lotus made. The goddess Kali or Kalka, edifice, circled by nine pools and
bud fringe, are both influenced draped in silks, sits under silver 27 acres (92 ha) of green manicured
by Hindu architecture. umbrellas and a marble canopy. lawns, is one of Delhi’s most
innovative modern structures.
The Baha’i sect originated in
Persia and this temple was
designed by the Iranian architect,
Fariborz Sahba. Construction
began in 1980 and was com-
pleted in 1986. Inside, the lofty
auditorium can seat 1,300 and all
are welcome to meditate there
and attend the daily 15-minute
services. Concerts with a social
message are held here often.
There is an Information Centre as
well, designed for those interested
to learn about the faith. The temple
looks spectacular after dark when
the lighting gives the marble
Inside the Kalkaji Temple panels a luminous, ethereal quality.
120 DELHI AREA BY AREA
1 Sultanpur
Day Trips from Delhi Bird Sanctuary
If you want a break from the hustle and bustle of Delhi
46 km (27 miles) W of Delhi. n Haryana
and wish to explore the surrounding countryside, there Tourism, Chanderlok Building, Janpath,
are several interesting sights to visit, all within a 50-km Delhi, (011) 2332 4911. q Huda City
(30-mile) radius of the city. The lake at Sultanpur is a haven Centre. Open sunrise–sunset Wed–
for migratory birds in winter, and in Pataudi is a beautiful Mon. Closed Tue. - & = O
palace which belongs to its cricket-loving nawabs, now open This sanctuary, a two-hour
to tourists. Surajkund, with its vast medieval reservoir, is the drive from Delhi, has been
venue of a popular crafts fair held every February. All these developed around a low-
excursions take about eight hours. Since they are not lying marshy area that is dry
in summer, but fills up during
particularly easy to reach by public transport, it is best to
the monsoon to form a shallow
hire a car and driver for the day, which can be organized lake (jheel). Sultanpur is at
by your hotel or local taxi rank and is relatively inexpensive. its best in the winter when
this shallow sheet of water
provides a haven for
NH1
Rohtak
Yam
NH
10
migratory birds.
Several pleasant walks,
una
Bahadurgarh
Rampur including a paved pathway
New NH24
Jhajjar Delhi
which runs around the small
Indira Gandhi
Ghaziabad lake, allow visitors to explore the
International
Airport 35-km (22-mile) area, while
the many hides or machans,
Gurgaon Faridabad mounted on stilts, provide a
good view of the birdlife on
NH2
2 Pataudi
60 km (37 miles) S of Delhi. Ibrahim
Kothi: 0 Advance reservations are
essential. Tel (011) 4666 1666.
SHOPPING IN DELHI
The hallmark of shopping in Delhi is vegetables, fruits and traditional
the fabulous variety of styles, merchandise handicrafts to designer clothes and
and markets. Besides Connaught Place, the latest imported electronic items.
almost every residential colony boasts Be prepared to bargain where required,
a market. Old, established shops and even a small success will make your
bazaars co-exist happily with glitzy high- shopping spree in Delhi a complete
end boutiques and department stores, and satisfying experience. For practical
and one can buy anything from seasonal information, see page 258.
Leather
Leather goods, in particular
shoes and bags, are found in
most major shopping areas
such as Connaught Place, Khan
Market and South Extension.
For quality hand-made shoes
and jackets, the Chinese-
owned outlets, such as John
Brothers, still set the standards
for comfort and durability.
For trendier goods there is
Da Milano, which has
Brass and copper vessels and other objects on sale, Sundar Nagar market several branches.
SHOPPING IN DELHI 123
DIRECTORY
Antiques, Carpets Textiles Leather Books, Music
and Shawls and Quilts and Newspapers
Da Milano
Cooke & Kelvey Abraham & Thakore 39–B, Khan Market. Full Circle
3, Scindia House, India 4, Nelson Mandela Marg, Map 5 B3. Khan Market.
Connaught Lane, Janpath. DLF Emporium, Vasant Tel (011) 4175 1755. Map 5 B3.
Map 1 C5. Kunj. Tel (011) 4606 0995. John Brothers Tel (011) 2465 5641.
Tel (011) 2331 4095. Anokhi 216, Competent House, Motilal Banarsidas
32, Khan Market. Map 5 B3. F-Block, Connaught
Cottage Industries Jawahar Nagar.
Tel (011) 2460 3423. Place. Map 1 C4.
Jawahar Vypar Bhawan, Tel (011) 2385 8335.
Tel (011) 2331 6158.
Janpath. Map 1 C5. Cottons Tekson’s Bookshop
Tel (011) 2332 0439. N-Block Market, Handicrafts South Extension Market.
Crafts Museum Shop Greater Kailash I. and Gifts Tel (011) 4164 6505.
Pragati Maidan. Map 6 D2. Tel (011) 4163 5108.
Good Earth Speciality Shops
Tel (011) 2337 1887. Fabindia Santushti. Map 4 E4.
Ravissant N-Block Market, Tel (011) 2410 0108. Aapki Pasand
50–51, Commercial Greater Kailash I.
Kamala 15, Netaji Subhash
Complex, New Friends Tel (011) 4669 3725/23.
Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts Marg. Map 2 E3.
Colony. Tel (011) 2683 7278. Shyam Ahuja Bhavan, Baba Kharak Tel (011) 2326 0373.
Santushti. Map 4 E4. Singh Marg. Map 1 B5.
The Carpet Cellar Tel (011) 2467 0112. Gulab Singh
1, Anand Lok, August Kranti Tel (011) 6596 9600.
Johri Mal
Marg. Tel (011) 4164 1777. The Shop 320, Dariba Kalan,
10, Regal Building, The Neemrana Shop
Sansad Marg, Connaught 26–A, Khan Market. Chandni Chowk.
Jewellery Place. Map 1 C5. Map 5 B3. Map 2 E2.
Tel (011) 2334 0971. Tel (011) 4358 7183. Tel (011) 2327 1345.
Bharany’s
14, Sundar Nagar Tulsi Tibet House Steak House
Market. Map 6 D3. Santushti. Map 4 E4. Lodi Rd. Map 5 B5. Jor Bagh Mkt.
Tel (011) 2435 8528. Tel (011) 2687 0339. Tel (011) 2461 1515. Tel (011) 2461 1129.
124 DELHI AREA BY AREA
ENTERTAINMENT IN DELHI
Delhi, as the capital of India, has a rich a culturally conservative city, jazz, theatre
and varied cultural life, mainly because and rock concerts are frequent, and there
the government has, over the last 50 years are several good bars and night clubs.
or more, consciously promoted a revival The city’s cultural calendar livens up
of traditional art forms. As a result, dancers, between October and March when the
musicians and folk artistes from all over India season is in full swing. The number of events
deem it an honour to perform here before multiply as all major festivals of music, dance,
discerning audiences. Although Delhi is still theatre and cinema are held at this time.
DIRECTORY
Music and Dance Films Exhibitions Nightlife
Indian Council for 3C’s Art Heritage Agni
Cultural Relations 15, Feroze Gandhi Marg, Triveni Kala Sangam. The Park, Sansad Marg.
Azad Bhavan, IP Estate. Lajpat Nagar III. Map 2 D5. Map 1 C5.
Map 1 C4. Tel (011) 2984 7846. Tel (011) 2371 9470. Tel (011) 2374 3000.
Tel (011) 2337 9309.
British Council National Gallery Aura
India Habitat Centre 17, Kasturba Gandhi of Modern Art Claridge’s Hotel.
Lodi Rd. Map 5 B5. Marg. Map 1 C5. Jaipur House, Dr Zakir Map 5 A3.
Tel (011) 2468 2001. Tel (011) 2371 0111. Hussain Marg, India Gate. Tel (011) 3955 5082.
Kamani Auditorium Map 5 C2. Club Bar
DT Cinemas
Copernicus Marg. Tel (011) 2338 4640. The Oberoi, Dr Zakir
Saket & Vasant Kunj.
Map 2 D5. Tel (011) 2614 0000. National Museum Hussain Marg.
Tel (011) 4350 3351. Janpath. Map 6 D4.
French Cultural Tel (011) 2436 3030.
Pragati Maidan Map 5 A2.
Centre
Map 6 D1. Tel (011) 2379 2775. Olive Bar &
2, Aurangzeb Rd.
Tel (011) 2337 1540. Restaurant
Map 5 A3. Vadehra Art Gallery
One Style Mile, Haveli 6,
Siri Fort Auditorium Tel (011) 3041 0000. D-178, Okhla Phase 1.
Kalka Das Marg, Mehrauli.
Asian Village Complex. Tel (011) 6547 4005.
Max Mueller Bhavan Tel (011) 2957 4444.
Tel (011) 2649 3370.
3, Kasturba Gandhi Marg. Lectures and Q’Ba
Triveni Kala Sangam Map 2 D5.
205, Tansen Marg.
Discussions E-42 & E-43, Inner Circle,
Tel (011) 2347 1100. Connaught Place.
Map 2 D5. India International
PVR Plaza Map 1 C4.
Tel (011) 2371 8833. Centre
H Block, Connaught Place. Tel (011) 4517 3333.
40, Lodi Estate,
Theatre Map 1 C4.
Max Mueller Marg. Rick’s
Tel (011) 4760 4200. Taj Mahal Hotel.
National School Map 5 A4.
Map 5 B3.
of Drama PVR Priya Tel (011) 2461 9431.
Tel (011) 2302 6162.
Bahawalpur House. 61, Community Centre,
Indira Gandhi
Map 2 E5. Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar.
National Centre
Tel (011) 2338 9402. Tel (011) 4760 4300.
for the Arts
Shri Ram Centre PVR Saket 1, CV Mess, Janpath.
Mandi House. Map 2 D5. Community Centre, Saket. Map 5 A4.
Tel (011) 2371 4307. Tel (011) 4710 4000. Tel (011) 2338 3895.
DELHI AREA BY AREA 127
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
N E TA
Q UT A B
MAH AT M A
JI S
U
ROAD
BH
AS H M A R G
G A N D H I M AR G
Old Delhi
Shops at the entrance to the Dargah
at Nizamuddin PA
NC
HK
UI A
N
RD
M AT H U R A
T
EN
AD
C
ES
RO
ON CR
GE
R A J PAT H
RID
New Delhi
GD
ROAD
R
PE
IN
Yam
UP
L
ZA
IL
W
KI
G
u
AR
na
R
M
Ri v
HU
L
TE Nizamudin To
er
PA
SS
AI
AR Purana Qila
H
RD
PA T
SA
MG
TI
ROAD
AN
LO D I
RI
NG
SH
RO
AD
Key
Major sight Police station
Place of interest Temple
Other buildings Gurudwara
Railway station Church
Metro station Mosque
Bus terminus Tomb Scale of maps 1-6
Tourist information Railway line 0 metres 500
RA SH
AD
LI
UR
GA SHY
BAG TRA
RH
AMA
N AYA
RO
AD
N
BAH
BAR UJ I
LI
HIN I
GA
DU
AD
BAZAAR
RA
O
RO
RO
AR
AD
AK
Sadar
ZA
TIL
Bazaar
BA
MA
S IO
RG
HA
IA
RAJ
TI LA K
MA
A
N MA RG
RG
MA AGGARSAIN
EL
RG Lahori
AD
I
MA
IK
AM
MA
ND Gate
SADAR
LM
RO
IR
MA KHARI BAOLI ROAD
BA
CH
AD
DA
NGH
RG UL Fatehpuri
NA Y
BAZAAR
AM
AT
RO
I
SH
RANI
R A M MARG Masjid
BA N A Y
RI
UT
R SI
A
Rohtak NS A
HA
I A
GA
TR AN
BA
GA L
MA
B
KA RIY
HIA
K K A NDLE
NS
WA
NE BA
BA
W
N
NA
HOS
A SA
ZA
JHAN
RO LI
AR
HT GA
D
Shahi
Q U
OA
AK Idgah
KR
LA
RO IDGAH ROAD
G A L I R ULA
L
AR
AD
TA B
SI
KU
EP
AD
AK
MOTIA KHAN
AN
RO
BE I D F
KH
AJ PARK Lal Kuan
BA
OO
AD
G
ROAD
SJ
RI Bazaar
MA
ZA
R O
MA
RO
LA
RG
A
R
A
JHA
N DE W ROAD
A D
S
IZ
H
FA
I
MARG
R
R
FA
D
A
SI
ROA
K KUCHA
B I GALI
L
D
D
RO
BI
PA
H
THANA
DI
AD
N
A
DE T
A
N
LAM
UR
SH
N
BA ROAD
A
ABP
ND R
N
HU
A
D
N AG
KAS
GU
SADA
PT
M
A
RO
A
AD
R
A
G
ARY
DESH
BAN ARA Madrasa of
DHU KS H
M A R C H A R YA
AN ROAD
Ghazi-ud-
Ajmeri
GUP din Khan
Gate
TA
G
Jhandewalan A
G
MAR
RA
A
LIN M
RO
ABH
AN ROAD
RO B
K A AG AD
URU
VA LL
D
D
RO H
ROA
RAJG
AD DA
LAL RBARI
TR A S H
MAR GALI
MARG
G TILAK New Delhi
U P TA
G A L I HA LW
AI WA L I
SA N G
RAG
Prince
ROA D
Polonia ROA
D BHAV BHU T I
AR
CHIT
A
BAZ
N
MAI
Balmiki
Temple PAHAR
AD
PA GANJ
S TAT E
Ramakrishna
RD
RO
Mission
N
CH
A
C H E LMSF O
AD AR
NT
R OD W
K
SA
ENTR
G
ND
Arya Samaj RA U
BA
M
AS MA IA
RA
Temple
NA
RK Ashram
AM
HR K
N
Y
AM RIS Marg
HR
KA
H PK
G
LA NA RO LA
ROAD
AR
AS
NE NE
VE
BA
A
M
NA
SA
VI
D
AD
NT
SH
LA
R
RO
NE
DI
RI
Lady
AK
AN
A CHOW
B
HI
Hardinge
PE IR
M
K)
RADIAL RD 4
M
SA
SH Hospital Yorks
D
RA
W CIRC
N
5
A DLE
LA
LE
RD
RO ID
(I
RG
M Nirulas
NG
AD
AL
MA
RA
DI
BA
DI 6
RA
Hotel AL RD
AN
Gole Marina
RD IAL
3 AD
HY
S H A H E E D B H A G AT R
Market
CO N N A U G H T
SINGH MARG
UD
Rajiv
The Connaught
Lakshmi Narayan PLA C E 2 Chowk
MARG
DI DIA
L Palika Inn AL
OAD
A NE RA R D
RG
Bazaar
BH A I V I R S IN G H L AN E
Shivaji
RADIAL RD 1
LA 7
LE
RO
OL RC
MA
AD Stadium
RG
CI
BANGLA SAHIB R
S
AD
O
C
SINGH
CH DLE
U
S MID
A
O
RO
A N C
AN
Y
AR
State AR M N TCI R
CI
HY
GH
AU
E
M
Hanuman
NC
Emporia GH T NE
UD
AM
N Mandir LA
RE
SI
VIR
T
GH
J A N PAT H
W
HR
AD AU
AK
KA Sacred CO NN
LA
RO
AS
LI
K
Heart
AR
The
BHAI
BA AN
NA
RI Cathedral UM Park
T
KH
N
KA HA
BANGLA SAHIB LANE
RO
SH
LI
AD
RE
BA
BA
RI
RI
AK
YMCA
BA
ST
AT
LA
Tourist Jantar
M
N
UL
AR
RG Mantar
RA
Gole Hostel
E
Bangla
MA
NT
GH
AS IN LS
G
ME
HO I S TO
VE
JA
Ram Manohar K A YWCA YWCA Imperial
JANPATH LN
Centre
LIA
MA
PA
RG
H A M I LT O N Kashmiri Gate
R O AD Old GPO
Old Delhi RI
N
G
PRASAD MUKHERJ Salimgarh
Chandni I MARG RO Fort
Chowk MO A
MAHATMA
RE
SA D
H C SEN ROA
RA
IR
GANDHI PARK O
AD Electric
Crematorium
Katra Shah
Neel Central Lajpat Rai Burj
Town
Chunnamal Hall Baptist Market Moti
Church Masjid
D
Haveli Lahore
C H AND N I Sunehri Gauri Gate Diwan-i-Khas Vijay Ghat
C H O W K Masjid Shankar Chhatta
Khas
BALLI
Mumtaz
O Hospital
BH
CHANDNI
Mahal
RA
AN
R A H MEET
N
Red Fort
A
CHOWK
E S P LAN A D E
ST R
N RD
Dariba Archaeological
NA
Kalan Museum
CHEL PURI
I
CH
NE
AR
Nai
M A H AT
SA
KH
Sarak Meena
TA
IW
RA
Bazaar
AL
ROAD
K
AN
JI
Maulana
GA
Azad's Tomb
RO
LI
R
Z A A
A
SU
V
DE Jami Meena
D
HA B A S H AN T I VA N
MA ALI R I Masjid Bazaar A M A RG
M
AL G Chawri
BH
A W C
PADAM SINGH
PIP Bazaar K A S T U R B A HO S
Shanti Vana
C H H PI
A
TA
MARG
U L M
AS
D RI Karim’s
SI A
W RG
R
TA AL
Churiwali
H
AT E
R AN GA
A LI
M Gali
GA
KALANA MAHAL R D
I G
ROAD AIN
Chawri B Kasturba
A
AR
Hospital
ER
Bazaar ZA Sitara
MARG
P R EM N
ND
A
JM
R Bazaar D A K H N I RA I ST Zinat-ul-
DI
A
R
AN
D
IW
G A L I CH
GA ARI A ROAD
HI
D RG
BA
LI MA
AJ R
LAL G H AT A M A S J I D
KEDAR NATH LANE
RG
ZA
A
I
S AB ZI MAND
PAT R
A
Sultan
SAM
RA CH Shroff Sthal
TUR
AS I R Kalan Razia's
HER
AF O AD IT Eye Hospital
Masjid LI
A R YA
AL Tomb
KM
MARG
LK
I Q DAYANAND RD
AD
H
A
RO ALI S A F RU SHAH A B U AY RD
HA E S
BA
AN
AD G SIR S D
MA E
R AH MA
L
SH
M
BAZ
JA
AN S A R I
A MEDICAL ASSOCIATION RD
GALI
W R
G
AH
AA
RAMLILA HINDI
AR
RR
L A GROUND PARK
L N
D
Gate D
)
RD
RU
M AS Hotel
AF
TO
AR ALI Broadway
G ROA
IN
D A N S AR I R O A D
(M
TA
GO Delhi Gate Rajghat
RE JAWAHARLAL Samata Sthal
RD
RO NEHRU MARG
AD Guru Nanak
Eye Hospital Jai Prakash Dr Ambedkar Gandhi
JA Govind Narain Hospital Stadium Memorial
R IN G
HA Ballabh Pant
MARG
NG Hospital Museum
IR
D
RO
RO
AD Cricket Stadium
N
Ashoka
A
SINGH
Khuni Pillar
M
MIRDARD MARG
RK
MATA SUNDARI
Darwaza
TU
PR Feroze
R O A D
B AH A D UR
ES Shah
ROAD
S M ATA SUN
DA RI LAN
RO E Kotla
AD Maulana Azad
LN
Medical College
T
ARI
EE
SU N D
Indian
NJ
Express
KO Bal
RA
Office
M ATA
DE UR TL Bhavan
DU A
EN GH M
AR
JA
FIR
S HAH
AR
EB DA G MARG Times of Indira Gandhi
M KOTLA
RA
NE AD G
E L
HA
BA
RA Interconti- UP
K
L A H A M nental
BA AD
A
BA
NE B M HY
M
A R AH
RO AW AY
AD
Z A FA
Barakhamba AT A Gandharva
Bengali
BA Road Market
KH
AN M Mahavidyalaya
AR
RA AB UL RO
G
FA
Modern
KH AD
ZA
R M ARG
Hans AM TODARMAL RD
RO
Foundation
NE AL
BA G
A
TH A M AR
LA RM
Kala
I TO I ND R A PR AS
DA
RO Sangam
G
CO
TO
IM
HA Hans
ILE AD LL
M
YL EG Tilak Bhavan
SH
AN Natural E
Bridge
A
E LA
H
History NE
R
Shri Ram
A
Ugrasen's Museum
FD
Baoli Centre
AD Mandi
RO House
SIKANDRA ROAD
LE
Y NSD D
HA
I NE Rabindra
ra
LA Bhavan
IL Mandi LN n
i
AK BH S
V
Kamani House AG
WA DA
N
Auditorium
G
AR
M
AM
AR
AT
M
E
D
N
VA
C ENT RAL RID G E BUDDHA
R ES E RVE D F O R EST JAYANTI
PARK
Malcha
Mahal
SI
M
O
N
B
O
RG
LI
V
A
A
AD
M RG
EL
A
M
RO
M
A
T O
T
PA
R
O
BHAGWAN JD
G
RA
MAHAVIR R
A
E
DH
VANASTHALI
RD
AR
DG
SA
AM
M
RA
M
A
RI
AR
DH
G
RG
MA
MA
LCH
A
OOT
R
MA
RG
PE
RAJD
PA
NC
G HS
UP
AR
HE
EL
M MA
RG
T EL American
PA
Embassy
CHANAKYAPURI
CR
ITC OS
AR
S
Maurya RO
D AD
AR
2
French
Sardar Patel S Austrian
Embassy Embassy
Taj CR
OS
Palace S
RO
AD
RG
Swedish 3
AD
MA
Delhi Embassy
RG
Bulgarian
RO
Airport Russian
Embassy
MA
CR
TA
OS
S Embassy
IN
UP
M
RO
RT
AD
AG
4
AH
A
A
M
DR
AY
AN
NY
AT
Dhaula N
SA
CH
Kuan KW
M
Chanakyapuri AM
TI
E
A
Italian N K R U
AN
Embassy MA
GA
JHEEL PARK SA H
TY
SH
AM MA
AR RG
ND
G
Canadian High
Commission
HI
SMRITI
M
G SA
AR VATIKA
TY
RG
D
AM
AR
M
ROA
EZ A RG
MA
R
UA NATIONAL
G
J
ICE
YA
O ROSE
IT
RV
YA
N
BE GARDEN
SE
National Rail G
AR
Museum M
S AT Y A
M
AH
RD
PANDIT PANT
TALKATORA RD
NC
RE
MARG
RG
GARDENS Indian
T
W
Airlines
TA A D Office
EN
LA
MA
L KA RO
J
C TO AN
ES
AVENUE
RA BG Reserve
KA
CR
ain
RA Bank of
AD
India
A RO
AR
NS
Dr
NORTH
A RU
DW AD PTI
S GU
SA
M A RG
E
R
Red
TE
RE Cross
RG D
MA
C R Society
BH
A O SS AD
SA RD RO
R
K
CHURCH ROAD LO
Parliament Central
HE
RA
JY
A House Secretariat
BRASSEY AVENUE
SA
NA
KIDWAI
BH
MOT
ISI
A
MUGHAL M
RA
AR
RASHTRAPATI GARDENS Rashtrapati
G
GARDENS Rail Krishi
Bhavan Bhavan Bhavan
North Block
CHOWK
AH M E D
Central
RAISINA HILL Secretariat R A JP AT H
V I J AY
PRESIDENT'S CHOWK
Vayu Udyog
MARG
Bhavan Bhavan
RAFI
MO
A D
RO
SIE
V I J AY
OU
LH
TH
DALHOUSIE ROAD DA
Udyog
RD Bhawan
ER
AJ
N EW D EL HI
TH
AR
AVENUE LANE
Dandi March YA
Statue GA M
KA
AVENUE
RA
JA
BA G H R O A D
T
M RD
E
AR
IX
KR
R
G LE
S P
E
A DU ISH
SOUTH
NA
SOUTH
N E H RI
C
KA
K
ME
EV
RE
MA
EN
SU
SC
NO
TE
AD
RA
R
RO
LA
EN
N
J
Hotel
MARG
N AK
LA
H
Diplomat E
MA
T K US
NE
NE
RG
LA
Vishwa N
K
NO
A
PT U Yuvak Kendra ME
U
DIK M A HANKA A
TI
SH S R IS HN
LY
RG
RAJAJI
IT MARG TE KR
MA
A
EN
G TI
Nehru AD
M
AR R Planetarium M RO
A
M MU UR
RG
TI R
BA
BA
ROAD
N
EE M Gandhi
AK
RD
T Nehru Memorial AR
OL
Museum G Smriti
RG
OI
A and Library
M
MA
TUGHLAQ
A
RG
NE
AY
KA Indira
LA
NE RY
U
NY
TH
TI Gandhi SAFD
LA NUA
LY
TI
Smriti A
PA
UR
A
JA
AD
RJ
M
UNG LAN
RO
S
MA
TE E
EN
TI
TE
SE
AD
RG
G
AN
UR
E
RO
AR
CO
SH
EB
M
CE
Gymkhana
British High GZ Race
RA
Club
AN
TI
Commission Course
SA
R
NI
AU
FD
K MARG
TUG
AR
TUR
Ashok AT A
TU
K AMA L
JU
HLA
Australian Hotel
GHLAQ C
RG
NG
Embassy P A
Q
AN
C H S HEE L M
RO
Delhi
TH
ROA
R
PA
Course
ES
Pakistan C
EN
Embassy T
Santushti
Complex
RSE
MARG
U
RG
E CO
Japanese
MA
Embassy NEHRU
RAC
PARK Golf
TI
Polo
NI
German Embassy
Embassy Safdarjung's
RG
Tomb
AU R OBI N D O
SA
MA
TY
A
G SA
D
Y
RA
A CE
NA
SA N C O URSE
TY
A
MA Jor
VI
BH
GR E NE NE Court
LE LAN LA LA
A
JANPATH
TE UR
AD
G
TH TA
W
Hotel H E
A ME AN
RO
M
A
L
Janpath HC BR
KA
N
RG ICU
S
MARG
AH MA RN
D
LA PE
H AD
ST
A
K CO
ES HU RO
S
JANTAR MANTAR RD
Z S G
UR
AR
RO
Hotel IN ROA
M AT H U R A
NK C NN
Indraprastha FE SH
A CA
D
C O P E R NI C US
BA
AN
VI NI
WINDSOR RA NG
PLACE PT
G
RO
AR
AD
GA
AD
R O Le
M
ND
AS
SINGH ROAD
A
SIN Meridien HO
JASWANT
I K
RA
HI
JENDRA PRA S A Baroda
AK
RA RO
D AD TILA
DR LA House K
TI L
NE
LA
ROAD
AR
NE
Hyderabad
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD ROAD House AD
G
RO
National Indira Gandhi LA
National Centre
Patiala QI
Archives House A
for Arts AUGUST KRANTI R AN
MANSINGH
Shastri MAIDAN PU
J A N PAT H
Bhavan
R A J P A T H India Gate
Major Dhyan Chand
National Stadium
ROAD
National
Museum
Archaeological Vigyan CHILDREN’S
Survey of India D PARK SH
Bhavan A ER
R O SH
AD
AZAD ROAD
Nirman M A U L A N A Bikaner National AH
Bhavan R Gallery of ROAD
Lal
B A
House
RO
A AR
Shastri ROAD M Delhi
Smriti High Court
JUS TICE SB Khair-ul-
DR
N
Manazil
HA
Pandara
MOTILAL
NEHRU Market
JA
PLACE
ZA
H
M
OT
PA N D ARA
AH
PA RK KI
RO LN
PAN DA R A
Hotel
SH
R EH
AK
BA RU
M
R
J A N PAT H
AR HU
G Judah
HU
RG
Hymn Hall
SS
M
LANE AY A
UN M
H
AI
AT
RO
NP
PR AD
N
JA
IT Cemetery
H
VI I
TE RT
RA
The
ES Ambassador A
AD
JA J
ARC H BISHOP
NU LA BH
M
Gandhi A R Y RO N
G
E
R
MG Khan
A
Smriti Delhi
M
Market
RG
Claridges
L
Market
IL
Hotel EB
A
GZ M
ER
IA
O
AN
SH
N
MA K AR IOS MA RG
R
R A
AU
E
A
AN M
IT
A
MAHARISH
L
BR
J
D
M
EN
SU
GOLF DELHI
A
H
UT Sikandar
IR
SO
GOLF COURSE
L I N KS
Lodi's
V
Tomb
I RAMAN M
H
LO D I
C EN TR AL GOLF LIN
IT
MAX MU
R
Athpula
ESTAT E
A
R
M
P
L
IL
LODI
G
ARG
1
ER
ROAD
ELLE
GARDENS
SH
K ROA D
Bara Gumbad
E
R MARG
A
ROAD 2
N
IT
LA
A D
R
R O
L
M
IL
India
G
3
A
ROAD
D I
ER
International
SH
Centre ROAD
4 L O
TA
RI
M
Muhammad
A
House
Centre Nehru Stadium
JOR
FO U RT
AN M AR G
BAG
VA RD M
M P IT A
SE CO N
H CO
M A RG
H
AN
VA RD M
L
D AV EN
AV EN U
O NY R O A D
STADIUM MG
M
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
FIR ST AV
AH
RO A D
E
U
BA G H
LODI AJAY
E
M AR G
JO R
E
AHUJA Jawaharlal
JOR BAGH
COLONY
ROAD PARK Nehru
Stadium
VY
AS
M
AR
G
AL
AK
NA NE )
ND OV TO JU
A T S (N
BOA
M OF
AR GE
RA G Indraprastha B R ID
M
GA
NG Pragati
A
M
AR Maidan
G
KR
IS HN BH
A AR
MA AM
RG P UT
RA
R I
MG
PRAGATI
N G
TA
MAIDAN
MB
RA
Matka PA
RIN
Pir I MA
RG
National
Crafts Science Centre
Museum
BHAIRON MARG
Taliqi
R O
Darwaza
A D
Qila-i-Kuhna
Ya
Boating
Mosque
Lake
mu
Purana
Qila
Sher na
Mandal
Riv
er
Maharani
Guest House
Z O OLO G I C A
La Sagrita
Tourist Home
M AT H U
Jukaso
Inn
L
NATIONAL
PA
ZOOLOGICAL
ZO
RK
OL
Sundar PARK
OG
Nagar
RO
ICA
RA
AD
Market L
PA
GE
ID
RK
BR
RO
AD
ROAD
M A
N
D DI
MU
ZA
H A
NI
T M
SUNDAR
WALA BURJ
A
The
Oberoi
LAL
RAJIV GANDHI
MARG
GUID ES SMRITI VAN
& MILLENNIUM
THE CHARBAGH
SCO U T INDRAPRASTHA
S
AT
BAH
AR PARK
BH BU HALIMA’S
G A
Masjid
AT
ROA
RL
H UIZAH
WA Hazrat
MU
L
NA
N I Z A MU D D IN M Nizamuddin
T
M A
RI
R AROAD
NI ZAMUD D I N EAS T
HARSHA
ISBT Sarai
WES T
ROAD
Kale Khan
R G
RA
O VER H
LY BA F IM
RA
PUL B
K
LA H A
H
SARAI
RA
A
N
PU
RO
D LL
ra A
KALE KHAN
AD
JANGPURA
R
i n H
O
BI
RB
RO
A
AL
A
Baha'i
D
RO
D House of
AD
Agra Worship
Jangpura
134 DELHI STREET FINDER
Lal Kuan Bazaar Road 1 C2 Naya Bans Gali 1 C1 Ramakrishna Mission 1 B3 Supreme Court 5 C1
Lambi Gali 1 C2 Naya Bazaar 1 C1 Ramdwara Road 1 B4 Swedish Embassy 3 C4
La Sagrita Tourist Home 6 D3 Nyaya Marg 3 C5 Ramlila Grounds 2 D3
Le Meridien 5 A1 Nehru Memorial Museum Rang Mahal 2 F1
Link Road 1 A3 and Library 4 E3 Rani Jhansi Road 1 A2
T
Lodi Estate 5 B4 Rashtrapati Bhavan 4 E2 Tagore Road 2 D3
Nehru Park 4 D5
Lodi Gardens 5 A4
Nehru Planetarium 4 E3 Red Cross Road 4 F1 Taj Mahal Hotel 5 B3
Lodi Road 5 A5
Netaji Subhash Marg 2 E2 Red Cross Society 4 F1 Taj Palace Hotel 3 A4
continues 5 C4
Lok Sabha Marg 4 F1 New Delhi 4 E2 Red Fort 2 E2 Talkatora Road 4 E1
New Delhi Railway Reserve Bank of India 4 F1 Talkatora Gardens 4 D1
Station 1 C3 Ring Road 2 E1 Tansen Marg 2 D5
continues 6 E2 Teen Murti Lane 4 E4
M New Rohtak Road 1 A2
Russian Embassy 3 C4 Teen Murti Marg 4 E3
Nirman Bhavan 5 A2
Madrasa of Ghazi-ud- The Ambassador 5 B3
Nirulas 1 C4
din Khan 1 C3
Mahadev Road 4 F1
Niti Marg 4 D4 S The Connaught 1 B4
continues 4 D5 The Oberoi 6D4
Maharaja Aggarsain Road 1 B1 Sacred Heart Cathedral 1 A5
Nizamuddin Bridge 6 F3 The Park 1 B5
Maharaja Ranjeet Singh Sadar Bazaar 1 B1
Nizamuddin East 6 E5 Thyagaraja Marg 4 E2
Marg 2 D4 Sadar Bazaar Railway
Maharani Guest House 6 D3 Tibet House 5 B5
Nizamuddin Railway Station 1 C1
Maharishi Balmiki Marg 1 A1 Tilak Bridge Railway
Station 6 E5 Sadar Thana Marg 1 B2
Maharishi Raman Marg 5 B4 Station 2 E5
Nizamuddin West 6 D5 Safdar Hashmi Marg 2 E5
Mahatma Gandhi Marg 2 F2 Tilak Marg 5 C1
North Avenue 4 E1 Safdarjung Aerodrome 4 E5
continues 3 A5 Times of India Office 2 F4
continues 6 E4 North Block 4 E2 Safdarjung Lane 4 F4
Todarmal Lane 2 D5
Mahatma Gandhi Park 2 D1 Safdarjung Road 4 F4
Todarmal Road 2 E5
Mahatma Jyoti Rao P Safdarjung’s Tomb
Salimgarh Fort
4 F5
2 F1
Tolstoy Marg 1 C5
Phule Road 5 C1
Town Hall 2 D1
Mahawat Khan Road 2 E5 Padam Singh Marg 2 F2 Samata Sthal 2 F3
Main Bazaar Road 1 B3 Triveni Kala Sangam 2 D5
Paharganj 1 B3 San Martin Road 3 B5
Malcha Mahal 3 C2 Tughlaq Crescent 4 F4
Palika Bazaar 1 C5 Sansad Marg 4 F1
Malcha Marg 3 C3 Tughlaq Road 4 F4
Panchkuian Road 1 B4 Santushti Complex 4 E4
Mandi House 2 E5 Turkman Bazaar Road 2 D3
Panchsheel Marg 3 C4 Sardar Patel Marg 3 C3
Mandir Marg 1 A1 Turkman Gate 2 D3
continues 4 D4 Sardar Patel Railway
Mandir Marg 1 A4 Turkman Road 2 D4
Pandara Market 5 B2 Station 3 A4
Mansingh Road 5 B2
Masjid Fakrula Beg Gali 1 C2 Pandara Park 5 C3 Satya Marg 3 C5
Mata Sundari Lane 2 E4 Pandara Road 5 B3 continues 4 D5 U
Mata Sundari Road 2 D4 Scindia Road 1 A4
Pandit Pant Marg 4 E1 Udyog Bhavan 4 F2
Mathura Road 5 C1 Second Avenue 5 A5
Parliament House 4 F1 Ugrasen’s Baoli 2 D5
continues 6 D3 Service Road 3 C5
Parliament Street 1 B5 Upper Ridge Road 3 A3
Matka Pir 6 D2 Shah Burj 2 F1
Maulana Azad Patiala House 5 C1 Urdu Ghar Marg 2 E4
Shah Jahan Road 5 B3
Medical College 2 E4 Peshwa Road 1 A4
Shaheed Bhagat Singh
Polo Ground 4 E5
Maulana Azad Road
Maulana Azad’s Tomb
5 A2
2 E2 Pragati Maidan 6 D1
Marg 1 B4 V
Shahi Idgah 1 A2
Max Mueller Marg 5 B4 President’s Estate 4 D2 Shakti Sthal 2 F3 Vakil Lane 2 D5
Medical Association Road 2 F3 Prince Polonia 1 B3 Vallabhacharya Marg 1 A3
Shakuntalam Theatre 6 D1
Meena Bazaar 2 E2 Prithviraj Lane 5 B3 Vande Mataram Marg 3 B1
Shankar Marg 1 B2
Middle Circle 1 C4 Vardman Marg 5 B5
Prithviraj Road 5 A4 Shanti Path 3 C5
Minto Road 2 D3
PTI (Press Trust of India) 4 F1 continues 4 D4 Vayu Bhavan 4 F2
Mirdard Marg 2 E4
Purana Qila 6 D2 Shanti Vana 2 F2 Vigyan Bhavan 5 A2
Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb 6 D4
More Sarai Road 2 D1 Purana Qila Road 5 C2 Shanti Vana Marg 2 E2 Vijay Chowk 4 F2
Moti Masjid 2 F1 Shastri Bhavan 5 A2 Vijay Ghat 2 F1
Motia Khan Park 1 A2 Shershah Road 5 C2 Vikas Marg 2 F4
Motilal Nehru Marg 5 A3
Q Shraddhanand Marg 1 C2 Vinay Marg 4 D5
Motilal Nehru Place 5 A3 Qutab Road 1 C2 Shringar Theatre 6 D1 Vishwa Yuvak Kendra 4 D3
Mughal Gardens 4 D2 Shroff Eye Hospital 2 F3 Vivekanand Road 1 C4
Muhammad Shah Shyama Prasad
Lodi’s Tomb 5 A5 R
Mumtaz Mahal 2 F2
Mukherji Marg 1 C1 W
Rabindra Bhavan 2 D5 Sikandar Lodi’s Tomb 5 A4
Murli Marg 6 E5
Race Course 4 E4 Sikandra Road 2 E5 War Memorial Arch 5 B2
Race Course Road 4 E4 Simon Bolivar Marg 3 B3 Welcomgroup Maurya
N Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Sisganj Gurudwara 2 D2 Sheraton 3 B4
Nai Sarak 2 D2 Sitaram Bazaar 2 D3 Willingdon Crescent 4 D1
Marg 4 F2
Nalwa Road 6 D5 Sitaram Bazaar Road 2 D2 continues 4 D3
Rahim Khan Road 6 E5
National Archives 5 A2 Smriti Vatika 3 B5 Windsor Place 5 A1
Rail Bhavan 4 F2
National Gallery of South Avenue 4 E3
Raisina Road 4 F1
Modern Art 5 C2
National Museum 5 A2 continues 5 A1
South Block
South End Lane
4 E2
5 A4
Y
National Rail Museum 3 C5 Rajaji Marg 4 E3 Yamuna River 6 F2
Sri Ram Centre 2 E5
National Rose Garden 3 C5 Rajdoot Marg 3 C3 Yashwant Place 4 D5
State Emporia Complex 1 B5
NSD (National School Rajghat 2 F3 Yorks 1 C4
Subz Burj 6 D4
of Drama) 2 E5 Rajguru Marg 1 B3 Subramaniam Bharti YMCA Tourist Hostel 1 B5
National Science Centre 6 D2 Rajpath 5 A2
National Stadium 5 C2 Marg 5 B3 YWCA 1 B5
Rajya Sabha Marg 4 F1 Sultan Razia’s Tomb 2 D3 YWCA Guest House 1 B5
National Zoological Park 6 D3
Natural History Museum 2 D5 Ram Manohar Lohia Sundar Nagar Market 6 D3
Hospital 1 A5 Sundar Nursery 6 D4
Naubat Khana
Nawab Road
2 E2
1 B1 Ramakrishna Ashram Sunehri Bagh Road 4 F3
Z
Naya Bans Bazaar 1 C1 Marg 1 A4 Sunehri Masjid 2 D1 Zinat-ul-Masjid 2 F3
BEYOND DELHI
AREA BY AREA
Hisar
JAIPUR AND
Ajmer ENVIRONS
(See pp182–229)
0 kilometres 100
50
Tonk
0 miles
Dehra Dun
Haridwar
Roorkee
Panipat
NORTH OF
DELHI
(See pp140–49) Roorkee (see p147), a small town on the way to
Haridwar, lies in the heart of a rich horticultural
belt. Its famous Engineering College, established
DELHI
in 1847, is housed in an elegant colonial building.
Mathura
Agra
Jhansi
Orchha
NORTH OF DELHI
Lying between the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, this agriculturally
prosperous region is held to be the cradle of Indian civilization.
Its historical and mythological past extends from the ancient brick
cities of the Indus Valley and the early Aryan settlements to the
later Muslim and European forts and cities. Each culture has
enriched the region and contributed to its remarkable diversity.
This vast plain, from about the second To most Indians, however, this is the sacred
millennium on, has remained one of territory of the Mahabharata (see p145), where
India’s most densely populated areas. gods and epic heroes fought a legendary
As time went on, ancient fortified city battle at Kurukshetra and where Krishna
states developed into medieval walled (see pp166–7) expounded the famous
towns which contained prosperous Bhagavad Gita. The development of
agricultural lands and flourishing markets. ideas that led to the later compilation
Many of these are today important of the Vedas and Upanishads, the
industrial centres. Since the area has had bedrock of Hindu philosophy and
such a diverse history, its architectural ethics, are believed to have taken
remains are an eclectic mixture of styles place here as well. Panipat, the site
so that ancient brick structures, Mughal of three decisive battles that changed
monuments and colonial churches rub the history of North India, lies close by.
shoulders with modern factories. To the northeast and northwest lie the
To the north are the pilgrim towns of now forgotten towns of Narnaul, Hansi and
Haridwar and Rishikesh, where the Ganges, Sardhana, associated with the medieval
India’s most holy river, enters the plains. Tughlaq and Sur dynasties, and European
With the splendid backdrop of the Shivalik freebooters and nabobs such as Skinner,
Hills, this area, rich in flora and fauna, offers Reinhardt and his wife, Begum Samroo.
exciting places for adventure sports such Meerut, the epicentre of the Indian Mutiny,
as white-water rafting. is now a busy market and trading centre.
Ambala
Sahabad
Guhla
Pehowa KURUKSHETRA
Nilu Kheri
Kaithal
Ratiya Tohana Pundri
Ujhana Karnal
Nasang
Gharaunda
Babura Narwana Asandh
Sirsa Un
Fatehabad Uklana
Munak
Nikuran Kairana
Agroha Safidon
Barwala PANIPAT
Jind
Israna
HARYANA Chharprauli
Hissar Gohana
HANSI Julana
Sonipat
Bhatgaon
Maham Baghpat
Getting Around Kharkhauda
Rohtak
This area is well served by roads, including the famous
Bawana
Grand Trunk Road (now National Highway 1). There are Kalanaur
good tourist lay-bys with clean toilets and cafés along it. Bahadurgarh
The high-speed Shatabdi Express between New Delhi
Chuchakwas Jhajjar New Delhi
railway station and Dehra Dun, as well as the overnight
Mussoorie Express to Haridwar, are other ways to reach Najafgarh
Haridwar. The Kalka–New Delhi Shatabdi Express
Mahrauli
stops at Ambala from where a taxi can be taken to Khosla
Kurukshetra. Taxis and tourist buses also ply at regular Gurgaon
intervals between New Delhi and Haridwar, and New Mahendragarh Pataudi
Delhi and Chandigarh. Sohna
Rewari
Bawal Nuh
NARNAUL
Key Bhadas
Jaipur
Highway
Major road Firozpur
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Dehra Dun
Brahmapuri Devaprayag
Yamunanagar
a RISHIKESH
un A LO HE
m NG T
G A N GES
Ya
Sarsawa Fatahpur
HARIDWAR
SAHARANPUR
Pathri
U T TA R A K H A N D
Rampur
Lansdowne
Gangoh ROORKEE
) Kotdwara
Deoband es
Jalalabad ng
Ga
(
Ganga
Bubana Najibabad
Kalan
Bohpa
Nagina
Muzaffarnagar
Jansath Bijnor
Dhampur
Burhana Jaspur
Khatauli
UTTAR PRADESH
Baraut SARDHANA Candpur Nurpur
Mawana
Binauli
MEERUT
Modinagar Garhmuktesar
Muradnagar
Moradabad
Hapur
Gan
Ghaziabad
Gulavthi Siyana
ga (
Dadri
Tranquil canal waters near Sardhana
G
an g
Sikandarabad
e
)
s
3 Panipat
Bareilly
Palwal 4 Kurukshetra
Aligarh 5 Meerut
6 Sardhana
7 Saharanpur
Hodal 8 Roorkee
9 Haridwar
Agra 0 Rishikesh
0 kilometres 50 Tour
0 miles 25 q Along the Ganges
144 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
1 Narnaul
Narnaul district. 132 km (82 miles) SW
of Delhi. Road map C3.
The Mahabharata
Considered an inexhaustible fund of knowledge and ideas, the Mahabharata
is about an eponymous battle between the Pandavas and Kauravas. Said to be
first narrated by a sage, Ved Vyas, the epic was written down only between the 6th
and 7th centuries BC. Eight times the length of the Iliad and Odyssey put together,
the subtle moral subtext of its legends and stories codifies notions of theology
and statecraft that inspired rulers down the ages.
The Bhagavad Gita, a later insertion of 700 stanzas, records the sermon that was
given by the divine charioteer, Lord Krishna, to the Pandava prince Arjuna on the epic
battlefield of Kurukshetra. It extols the virtues of performing one’s moral duty without
seeking reward, and condones the use of violence against injustice. Its philosophy of
righteous living and the importance of one’s dharma (duty, calling) continues to guide
the lives of millions of Indians. In the 1990s, a television serial on the Mahabharata
became so popular that life came to a virtual standstill when it was transmitted.
The battle is an allegory for Folk art often uses the epic as Krishna is seen as the divine
the war between right and a theme. This patachitra from charioteer who steers the mind
wrong. The epic’s didactic Eastern India is used as a visual (chariot) and five senses (the five
tone made it an authoritative aid by minstrels, while ganjifa horses that pull Arjuna’s chariot) to
manual on moral rules and playing cards similarly use follow the right path through life.
righteous conduct. Arjuna as the icon for a king.
Arjuna, the skilled archer, shoots the Lord Krishna gives the sermon of the Gita
eye of a fish reflected in water. This act to Arjuna on the battlefield of Kurukshetra.
won him the hand of Draupadi and As the charioteer of the Pandavas in the
the envy of the Kaurava princes. war, this god plays a crucial role in the epic.
146 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
7 Saharanpur
Saharanpur district.165 km (103 miles)
NE of Delhi on NH24. Road map D1.
* 700,000.
Mango
The mango, or aam, is the best-loved fruit
of the country. The Mughal emperor Babur
called it the “finest fruit of Hindostan.”
Hundreds of varieties, with exotic names
and pedigrees, are available from May to
July, before the monsoon arrives. While
ripe mango is savoured for its sweet pulp,
the raw fruit is also valued for its medicinal
properties, as well as its sharp tang, and is
made into pickles and chutneys eaten through
the year. The popular design motif of the paisley Langra mangoes
is derived from the shape of its fruit, and mango
leaves, considered auspicious, are used as buntings
Saharanpur’s Botanical Gardens, a at festive occasions.
repository of rare plants
148 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
0 Rishikesh
Haridwar district. 238 km (148 miles)
N of Delhi. Road map: D1. * 102,000.
n GMVN Tourist Office, Muni-
ki-Reti (0135) 243 0799/0372.
_ International Yoga Week (Feb).
Pilgrims taking a dip in the holy Ganges at Haridwar
This twin city of Haridwar,
9 Haridwar of the river. The main ghat, situated at the confluence
Har-ki-Pauri, is named after a of the Chandrabhaga and
Haridwar district. 214 km (133 miles)
N of Delhi. Road map: D1. * 310, 500. supposed imprint of Vishnu’s the Ganges, is the start of the
n GMVN Tourist Office, Rahi Motel feet there. Hundreds attend the holy Char Dham pilgrim route
(0133) 422 6430/8686. @ Railway Rd. daily evening aarti at this ghat, to the Himalayas. Muni-ki-Reti
_ Kumbh Mela (every 12 years; when leaf boats are filled with (literally “sand of the sages”),
Feb–Mar); Ardh Kumbha Mela (every flowers, lit with lamps and set lies upstream from the Triveni
6 years; Feb–Mar); Haridwar Festival adrift on the Ganges. Further Ghat and is believed to be a
(Oct); Dusshera (Oct–Nov). south, a ropeway connects the blessed site since ancient sages
town to the Mansa Devi Temple meditated here. It has several
The Ganges, India’s holiest river, across the river with a panoramic famous ashrams, such as the
descends from the Himalayas to view of Haridwar. South of Sivanand, Purnanand and
the plains at Haridwar. This gives the town, the famous Gurukul Shanti Kunj ashrams, which
the town such a unique status Kangri University is renowned offer courses to those interested
that a pilgrimage to Haridwar is as a centre of Vedic knowledge, in India’s ancient knowledge
every devout Hindu’s dream. where students are taught systems. Maharishi Mahesh
Remarkably bare of ancient in the traditional oral style. Yogi, a cult figure during the
monuments, Haridwar’s most It also has a section displaying 1960s, when the Beatles
famous “sight” and a constant archaeological exhibits. were his followers, also
point of reference is the Ganges A good way to experience has an ashram here.
and its numerous bathing Haridwar’s ambience, which Rishikesh is a popular
ghats, tanks and temples. has changed little since ancient destination for adventure
These bustling sites of ritual times, is to stroll along the sports such as river rafting,
Hindu practices, performed riverside bazaar, lined with rappelling and kayaking
by pilgrims for the salvation stalls full of ritual paraphernalia (see p269). Eco-rafting and
of their ancestors and for their – small mounds of vermilion eco-camping are also preva-
own expiation, demonstrate powder, coconuts wrapped in lent here since the increase
their deep faith in the power red and gold cloth, and brass in environmental awareness.
Kumbh Mela
According to Hindu mythology, four drops of the immortal
nectar (amrit) wrestled by the gods from the demons, spilled over
Haridwar, Allahabad, Ujjain and Nasik. A Kumbh Mela is held once
every 12 years by rotation at these venues in Magh (Feb–Mar), when
the sun transits from Pisces to Aries, and when Jupiter is in the sign
of Aquarius (Kumbh in Hindu astrology). Hindus believe that they
can imbibe the immortal amrit and wash away their sins by bathing
in the Ganges at this propitious time. The mela is regarded as the largest
congregation of human beings in one place anywhere in the world,
when millions come for a holy dip, and to attend the seminars, discourses
and debates held in the camps of leading Hindu sages and theologians.
Haridwar’s last Kumbh Mela, held in 2010, attracted over ten million
people. A smaller celebration, called the Ardh Kumbh (half-Kumbh), Pilgrims thronging the ghats at the
is held every six years. Kumbh Mela
NORTH OF DELHI 149
2 Marine Drive
This campsite is
named after a Devaprayag
Bombay prome-
nade famous for
its views. The Wall
J
J
1 Kaudiyala
The starting point
J
Golf Course
3 Shivpuri
The beautiful Glasshouse
on the Ganges (see p239)
offers a spectacular
view of the river and the
surrounding countryside.
4 Brahmapuri
An ashram, one of many Key
along the Ganges, is Tour route
located here.
Roads
River
5 Lakshman Jhula
A modern suspension
bridge replaced the old
rope bridge in 1929. This Tips for River Rafters
leads to the quieter east Length: 36 km (22 miles).
bank of Rishikesh where Stopping-off points: White-
most ashrams are situated. water rafting can be done in
leisurely stages, over two days,
with a night halt at the Kaudiyala
6 Rishikesh Camp. Stopover points are
An ancient spiritual centre, provided at Marine Drive, Shiv-
Rishikesh is serenely located puri and Brahmapuri. However,
0 kilometres 10
on the banks of the Ganges a shorter tour of the same stretch
amid lush, wooded hills. 0 miles 5 can also be covered in one day.
The imperial Mughal highway which still After the decline of the Mughals, some
runs south along the Yamuna between of the more ambitious bandits declared
Delhi and Agra is a link to the region’s themselves kings and built for themselves
historical past. The rich pastoral and small, but powerful kingdoms with
agricultural land around Brindavan, the magnificent fortresses in this harsh
supposed homeland of Krishna (see p166), area. Their architecture, which is a happy
was the main axis of the Mughal empire. amalgam of traditional Hindu with
The outer fringes of this area, formed by Muslim building styles, can be seen
Mathura, Bharatpur and Deeg, have in Datia, Orchha and Deeg.
wetlands that attract many rare migratory Itinerant poets and musicians in
birds, such as the Siberian crane, who this area still sing of daring kings and
come each winter to the World Heritage queens such as Laxmibai, the Rani of
Site of the Keoladeo Ghana National Park. Jhansi. Her spirited resistance to the
As one goes further west and south, the British forces during the Indian Mutiny
greens and gold of the Yamuna lands give of 1857 made her a popular icon during
way to the scrub and ravines along the the Freedom Movement. Close by lies
River Chambal. This is the centre of the Gwalior. This significant princely state
subcontinent: hot, dusty and vast. These has a magnificent fort that goes back
awesome ravines were the preferred habitat to the 3rd century, and splendid palaces
of robbers and dacoits (armed bandits). built by its Scindia rulers.
Marble filigree screen surrounding the tombs at the Taj Mahal, Agra
Red sandstone architecture of the Jahangiri Mahal, Agra Fort
152 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
region contains some of the best examples of Indian art and BHARATPUR
architecture, while the wetlands around Bharatpur provide
a natural habitat for a range of wildlife and migratory birds. KEOLADEO
GHANA NP
Jaipur FATEHPUR
SIKRI
Bayana
Jogner
BARI
RAJASTHAN
l
ba
am
Ch
Sabalgarh
Sawai
Madhopur
Jakhoda Burda
Sheopur
Khankar
Goras
MADHYA
Pohri
Shivpuri
Kolaras
Key
Highway
Badarwas
Major road
Guna
Minor road
Railroad
State border
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
Atrauli
Khair Bareilly
Aligarh
Akrabad
Kasganj
Iglas Sikandra Rao
Hathras U T TA R
Raya PRADESH Etah
Sadabad Jalesar Temples and bathing ghats along the Yamuna at Mathura
Umargarh
SIKANDRA Etmadpur Mainpuri
AGRA Bhongaon
Shikohabad
Lucknow
and the Taj Express between Delhi and
KH
Mohana Dabra
Agra. Several trains pass through Jhansi,
AN
Garaja Bhander
from where easy car trips can be made
D
PRADESH
t
Be
Jhansi
Tahrauli
Karera
Sights at a Glance
1 Agra pp154–63
Amola ORCHHA 2 Sikandra
Mau Ranipur Karara 3 Mathura
4 Brindavan
Pichor
6 Deeg
Nowgong
Jatara 7 Bharatpur
Ranod
Lalitpur 8 Keoladeo Ghana National Park
pp172–3
Isagarh 9 Fatehpur Sikri pp174–7
0 Dholpur
Tikamgarh q Bari
w Gwalior
e Datia
t Orchha pp180–81
Tours
5 Brajbhumi
r Bundelkhand
1 Agra
Agra was the imperial Mughal capital during the 16th and
17th centuries. It was from here that the emperors Akbar,
Jahangir and Shah Jahan governed their vast empire. The
city flourished under their patronage, attracting artisans
from Persia and Central Asia, and also from other parts of
India, who built luxurious forts, mausoleums and gardens.
Agra’s strategic location on the banks of the Yamuna as well
as on the Grand Trunk Road linking eastern India with the west,
made it a trading station, visited by merchants and travellers
from all over the world. With the decline of the Mughals, Agra
was captured by the Jats, the Marathas, and finally the British.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Agra district. 223 km (139 miles)
SE of Delhi. Road map: D3.
* 3,600,000. n UPTDC Taj Rd,
(0562) 222 6431; Government
of India Tourist Office, 191 Mall
Rd, (0562) 222 6368. _ Kailash
Fair (Aug–Sep).
Transport
~ Kheria 16 km (10 miles).
£ Agra Cantonment (0562) 242
1039/139; Raja ki Mandi (0562)
Jami Masjid, built by Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter Jahanara 285 4477; Agra Fort (0562) 296
0457. @ Idgah (0562) 242 0324.
U Jami Masjid pattern dominate this section
Open daily. of the town. The eastern
A magnificently proportioned courtyard wing was demolished alleys can be a rewarding
building in the heart of by the British in 1857 experience, offering glimpses
the medieval town, (see pp58–9). Of interest of a close-knit way of life
the “Friday Mosque” are the tank with its reminiscent of Mughal Agra.
was sponsored by shahi chirag (“royal This is also the city’s crafts and
Shah Jahan’s favourite stove”) for heating trade centre, where a vast array
daughter, Jahanara water within the of products such as jewellery,
Begum, who also courtyard, and the zari embroidery, dhurries, sweets,
commissioned a separate prayer shoes and kites are available.
number of other A detail of the minaret chamber for ladies. Some of the main bazaars are
buildings and gardens, Johri Bazaar, Kinari Bazaar, Kaserat
including the canal that once Environs Bazaar and Kashmiri Bazaar. The
ran down Chandni Chowk in The area around Jami Masjid was quieter back lanes such as Panni
Delhi (see pp94–5). Built in 1648, a vibrant meeting place, famous Gali have fine buildings with
the mosque’s sandstone and for its kebab houses and lively decorative upper storeys and
marble domes with their bazaars. A stroll or rickshaw ride imposing gateways to secluded
distinctive zigzag chevron through the network of narrow courtyards and craft workshops.
2 Jami Masjid
HIL
3 Railway Station
N
St Peter’s
I INT R
D RA
RA S
A Church Belanganj
I R HA
4 St John’s College
J IN
B Station
G A LWANT St John’s
AR IC
OA
H R
TIWKAL
MATHURA
IT
D
NDI RO
H O S P I TA L St John’s
A R
RO Church
C H H AT T
AD
River
A
P I PA L M
N AT I O N A L H I G
JOHRI
BAZAAR Agra Fort
RD Railway
G H A L I B PU Jami
Ya m u
RA Station
SI
RD Masjid
RE
DA
M A N T OL A RO Agra
YA M
A D
H Fort
W AY
na
N Station Agra
UN
O.
Fort
Agra Fort
A
Kheria Airport
2
RD
FAT E D
G WA L I O R
A
A
HPUR
SIKRI RO AL A RD A
R
RD
P RO
G E N ER
Fatehpur AD
C A R I AP
Idgah
LA
Sikri
Station
TO
I
PI
H
FA
H Khwajasara’s Tomb
PU
R
S
Cantonment
IK
0 kilometres 1 Idgah
RI
Bus Stand
RD
0 miles 1
P Firoz Khan
Khwajasara’s Tomb
S of Agra, on Gwalior Rd. Open daily.
A signpost on the Gwalior
Road indicates the turning
to this unusual 17th-century
octagonal tomb, standing
on the edge of a lake. This
is where Firoz Khan, eunuch
and custodian of Shah Jahan’s
palace harem, is buried. The red
sandstone structure stands on
a high plinth and has a gateway
attached to the main building.
St George’s Church in Agra Cantonment Steps lead to the upper storey
where a central pavilion
include those of a Venetian public buildings, churches, containing the cenotaph is
doctor, Bernardino Maffi, and cemeteries and bungalows in located. Highly stylized stone
Geronimo Veroneo (once a medley of styles dating from carvings decorate the surface.
wrongly regarded by some the British days. St George’s Interestingly, unlike other
as the architect of the Taj). Church (1826), a yellow ochre buildings of the period, there
Near the chapel is the tall plastered building, visible even is an absence of calligraphic
obelisk marking the grave of the from the Taj, is a typical example inscriptions. If the tomb is
four children of General Perron, of the North Indian cantonment closed, the chowkidar from
French commander of Scindia’s style of architecture. JT Boileau, the village will open the gate.
forces. Another Frenchman, a the architect, also built the
member of the Bourbon family Christ Church in Shimla.
and kinsman of Henry IV of France, Havelock Memorial Church
is also buried at this site. (1873), constructed in a “trim
The largest and most Classical style”, commemorates
impressive grave is that of one of the British generals of
John Hessing (d.1803) who the 1857 mutiny. Queen Mary’s
first ventured out east as a Library and the Central Post
soldier with the Dutch East India Office are other buildings in
Company at Kandy (Sri Lanka). the area.
He came to India in 1763 and Structures such as the Agra
joined the service of the Nizam Club, once the hub of British
of Hyderabad in the south, cantonment social life, and
before moving northwards to be the hybrid Indo-Saracenic
a mercenary with Scindia’s forces. government Circuit House,
His red sandstone tombstone, which used to accommodate
interestingly modelled on the officials of the Raj, are also The central pavilion where Firoz Khan
lines of the Taj Mahal, was built located in the cantonment. is buried
by a local architect.
One of the tombs, in memory
of Father Santos, is enclosed by Gold Thread and Bead Zardozi
a trellis frame where Hindus and Agra’s flourishing local craft tradition of elaborate gold thread and
Muslims tie threads, praying for bead embroidery is known as zardozi. This technique was Central
the fulfillment of their wishes. Asian in origin and came to the region with the Mughal emperors.
To its south, on Wazirpura Local craftsmen in the old city added further refinements to create
Road, is the Roman Catholic garments and accessories for the Imperial court. However, with the
Cathedral, constructed in the decline of court patronage, the skill languished and almost vanished.
18th century at the expense It owes its recent revival to encouragement from contemporary
of Walter Reinhardt. An old, fashion designers. The
derelict church from Akbar’s delicate stitches and
complicated patterns
time stands next to it.
in genuine gold thread
and coloured beads
P Cantonment
are now widely used
Bounded by Mahatma Gandhi Rd, for both traditional
Grand Parade Rd and the Mall Rd. and contemporary
The pleasant, tree-shaded army garments and accessories,
cantonment area, with its own including shawls and
railway station and orderly scarves, bags and shoes. Detail of a zari-embroidered textile
avenues, has many interesting
158 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Taj Mahal
One of the world’s most famous buildings, the Taj
Mahal commemorates both the Mughal emperor
Shah Jahan, and Mumtaz Mahal, his favourite wife. The Dome
Its perfect proportions and exquisite craftsmanship The 44-m (144-ft) double dome
have been described as “a prayer, a vision, a dream, is capped with a finial.
a poem, a wonder.” This sublime garden-tomb, an image
of the Islamic garden of paradise, cost nearly 41 million
rupees and 500 kilos of gold. Around 20,000 workers
laboured for almost 22 years to complete it in 1653.
. Marble Screen
The filigree screen
delicately carved
from a single block
of marble was
meant to veil
the area around
the royal tombs.
KEY
1 Plinth
2 Four minarets, each 40 m
(131 ft) high and crowned
River by a chhatri, frame the tomb,
Yamuna highlighting the perfect
. Tomb Chamber symmetry of the complex.
Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph, raised on a platform, 3 The Charbagh was irrigated by
is placed next to Shah Jahan’s. The actual graves, the waters of the River Jamuna.
in a dark crypt below, are closed to the public.
TA J M A H A L 159
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Pishtaq
Recessed arches
provide depth while
their inlaid panels
reflect the changing
light to give the tomb
a mystical aura.
. Pietra Dura
Inspired by the paradise garden,
intricately carved floral designs inlaid
with precious stones embellish the
austere white marble surface to give
it the look of a bejewelled casket.
Taj Mahal
1 Main Tomb
2 2 Masjid (mosque)
1 3
3 Mehmankhana
(guesthouse)
4 Charbagh
5 Gateway
Calligraphic Panels
The size of the Koranic Key
verses increases as the arch 5
gets higher, creating the Central illustration
subtle optical illusion of a Charbagh
uniformly flowing script.
160 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Pietra Dura
The Mughals were great naturalists
who believed that flowers were the
“symbols of the divine realm”. In the
Taj, pietra dura has been extensively
used to translate naturalistic forms into
decorative patterns that complement
the majesty of its architecture.
Floral sprays,
carved in relief on
the marble and
sandstone dado
levels, are framed
with pietra dura and
stone inlay borders.
The profusion of
floral motifs in the
Taj symbolizes
the central
paradise theme.
Calligraphy
Inlaid calligraphy in black marble was used as a
form of ornamentation on undecorated surfaces.
The exquisitely detailed panels of inscriptions of
Koranic passages, which line the recessed arches
like banners, were designed by the Persian
calligrapher, Amanat Khan.
162 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
E bank of Yamuna. 8 km
(4 miles) upstream from the
Taj Mahal. Tel (0562) 228 0030.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. &
The Tomb
The square two-storeyed tomb stands
in the centre of a charbagh. At the
four corners of the low platform
are four squat attached minarets.
. Tomb Chamber
The roof has incised,
painted and gilded
stucco and stalactite
patterns. The yellow
marble caskets appear
to have been carved
out of wood.
Chhatri
Each minaret is
crowned by an
open-pillared,
domed chhatri.
. Pietra Dura
Entrance The polished marble
surface is covered with
stone inlay, the first time
this technique was
extensively used in
Mughal architecture.
Vishram Ghat at Mathura where every evening at sunset oil lamps are floated on the river
4 Brindavan
Mathura district. 68 km (42 miles)
NW of Agra off NH2. Road map D3.
* 63,000. @ n Old Bus Stand,
Mathura. _ Holi (Feb–Mar), Rath
ka Mela (Mar), Hariyali Teej (Jul),
Janmashtami (Aug–Sep). ( daily.
Delhi
5 Brajbhumi Driving Tour Kosi
This was the
Devotees believe that the area around Braj treasure-house
of Krishna’s foster
is composed of sacred mandalas (circuits) father, Nand.
that map the idyllic pastoral landscape of
Krishna’s early life. Divided by the Yamuna,
this tour partly follows the chaurasi kos ki
yatra, a traditional pilgrimage of about 300
km (186 miles), undertaken around the
Janmashtami celebrations.
4 Barsana
With its 17th-century
Ladliji temple, Barsana
is believed to be the
home of Radha.
5 Nandgaon
Krishna lived here
with foster parents 3 Govardhan
Nand and Yashoda This pilgrim town has grown around the
after his escape hill that legend says Krishna lifted on his
from Gokul and finger to shield the people of Braj from
the evil Kamsa. torrential rain. Nearby is Kusum Sarovar.
AGRA AND AROUND 167
. Sawan Pavilion
Shaped like an upturned boat,
its ingenious water system created
a semi-circle of falling water.
Mughal
Marble Swing
This was a part
of Suraj Mal’s
war booty, now
placed in front
of Gopal Bhavan.
KEY
1 Bhadon Pavilion
2 Gopal Sagar Tank
3 Rup Sagar Tank
4 Kishan Bhavan
5 The roof-level reservoir had
water drawn to it from four wells.
Pipes led from holes in its sides . Gopal Bhavan
to supply the chutes and fountains This elegant complex is flanked by the boat-shaped Sawan-Bhadon
with a continuous stream of water. pavilions. Its numerous overhanging kiosks and balconies are
6 Charbagh reflected in Gopal Sagar from which it seems to rise. The interior
still retains the original furnishings and objets d’art of this palace.
DEEG 169
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Bharatpur district. 95 km (59 miles)
NW of Agra. Road map D3.
Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily.
. Keshav Bhavan Closed Fri, the day after Holi (Mar).
Heavy lithic balls were placed on the roof here. When water _ Jawahar Mela (Sep). ( Mon. &
gushed up the hollow pillars and pipes inside the arches, the
balls rolled on the roof to produce “thunder”. Transport
@
Lotus Quoins
Placed at each corner
of the plinth, these
urns were inspired
by Mughal designs.
Suraj Bhavan
A pillared, secluded pavilion with
a splendid view of the charbagh,
it was part of the zenana enclosure.
Monsoon Architecture
In the dry areas of North India, light and wind
direction guided architecture. Underground rooms,
water channels, fountains, latticed screens, terrazzo
floors and open courtyards were devices to keep
homes cool before the advent of electricity. The
Sawan-Bhadon pavilions at Deeg, named after
the months of the monsoon (July–August),
are an architectural style inspired by the rainy
season. Built to savour the thunder and rain of the
Coloured water fountains at Deeg monsoon, such pavilions adorned forts and palaces.
170 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
7 Bharatpur
Bharatpur district. 55 km (34 miles) W
of Agra. Road map D3. * 2,552,600.
n opp RTDC Hotel Saras Circle, Agra
Rd (05644) 22 2542. @ _ Jaswant
Mela (Oct).
9 Fatehpur Sikri
See pp174–7.
0 Dholpur
Dholpur district. 54 km (34 miles)
S of Agra. Road map D3. * 130,200.
n Bharatpur, (05644) 22 2542. @
.
Shanti
Kutir
J
Mrig
Sapanmari
Tal
Ramnagar
Lala Pyare
Around the Park ka Kund
Expert boatmen navigate the wetlands and point
out bird colonies. Bicycles and cycle-rickshaws are
also available for touring the forest paths.
Birds,
Resident and J
al
an
Migrant
aC
an
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Bharatpur district. 52 km
(32 miles) SW of Agra.
Road map D3. n RTDC,
opposite Hotel Saras Circle, Agra
Rd, Bharatpur, (05644) 22 2542.
Open 6am–6pm daily. & 8 -
Bharatpur
0 = m s Bicycles and cycle-
City
rickshaws available to rent.
Jatoli Agra
0 kilometres 1 Turtle
0 miles 1 Other species thriving here include turtles, otters,
foxes and reptiles such as the rock python.
Python
point
Hans White-throated Kingfisher
Sarovar
One of the most commonly sighted
birds in the park, the vividly-
coloured kingfisher is usually
found near the ponds, lakes
and marshlands, perched
on branches of trees,
waiting for its prey.
Koladahar
Bahnera
l
na
Barpur Ca
na
ksa
Chi
Naswaria
Nesting
Darapur With the arrival of the
monsoon (late June),
thousands of birds set up
nesting colonies. As many as 60
noisy nests on one tree may be
seen during this season.
For keys to symbols see back flap
174 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
9 Fatehpur Sikri
Built by Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1571 in honour of the
famous Sufi saint, Salim Chishti, Fatehpur Sikri was the
Mughal capital for 14 years. An example of a Mughal
walled city with defined private and public areas and
imposing gateways, its architecture, a blend of Hindu
and Islamic styles, reflects Akbar’s secular vision as well
Pillar in the Diwan-i-Khas
as his style of governance. After the city was abandoned, The central axis of Akbar’s court,
some say for lack of water, many of its treasures were supported by carved brackets,
plundered. It owes its present state of preservation to was inspired by Gujarat buildings.
the initial efforts of Lord Curzon (see p61), a legendary
conservationist.
Jami Masjid
Khwabgah
The emperor’s private
sleeping quarters, this
“chamber of dreams”
with murals and Persian
calligraphy has an
ingenious ventilating
shaft near his bed.
Entrance
. Diwan-i-Khas
Perhaps a debating
chamber, the real
function of this unique
structure is still unknown.
Ankh Michauli
Sometimes identified as the treasury,
this building has mythical guardian
beasts carved on its stone struts. Its
name means “blind man’s buff”.
Jami Masjid
This grand open mosque towers over the city
of Fatehpur Sikri and was the model for several
Mughal mosques. Flanked by arched cloisters,
its vast namazgah has monumental gates to the
east and south. However, the spiritual focus of
the complex is the tomb and hermitage of the
Sufi mystic, Salim Chishti, as popular today as
it was in the days of its Mughal patrons.
Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti
Exquisite marble serpentine brackets and
almost transparent screens surround the
inner tomb which has a mother-of-pearl
canopy inlaid with sandalwood.
Badshahi Darwaza
Akbar used the
steep steps of this
royal gateway to
enter the complex.
Hujra The view of the
Symmetrically flanking the main mosque, this pair sacred mosque,
of identical cloistered prayer rooms has flat-roofed directly across,
pillared galleries that run round the complex. greeted his entry.
Corridors
r A Tour of Bundelkhand
Gwalior and the adjoining region of Bundelkhand, named
after the Bundela Rajputs, make up a culturally distinctive
area in Central India. Innumerable forts and monuments,
situated in a boulder-strewn landscape of great beauty,
still echo with stories of the valour and pageantry of the
Bundela Rajput courts, and warriors such as the Rani of
Jhansi. The area’s glorious history and refined cultural
traditions are reflected in the architectural treasures of
1 Gwalior The capital city
Gwalior, the magical, medieval town of Orchha, and the
of many great dynasties
hilltop temples of Sonagiri. since its origins in the 1st
century AD, Gwalior is the
most splendid of the
2 Pawaya Agra
“gateways” to the
The remains of an Bundelkhand region.
ancient fort can be
seen in this capital
of the Nag kings (3rd
century AD) from the 3 Sonagiri
highway at Dabra. This impeccably
maintained complex
of 77 Jain temples
is approached
through a thriving
Dabra nd pilgrim settlement.
Si
4 Datia
This erstwhile Bundela
capital surrounded
by numerous small
lakes, has scenically Bundelkhand
located palaces
on hillocks.
a
tw
Be
Key
Tour route
Other roads Lalitpur
Rivers 5 Jhansi
The town is best
known for its impressive
0 kilometres 20
fort and the heroic Rani
6 Orchha Laxmi Bai, who died
0 miles 10 leading her troops in
The temples, cenotaphs and
tiered palaces here are perfect the 1857 Indian Mutiny.
Tips for Drivers examples of Bundelkhand
architecture (see pp180–81).
Length: 120 km (75 miles).
Stopping-off points: Gwalior,
Sonagiri, Datia, Jhansi, Taragram,
Orchha. After Gwalior, there is a 7 Taragram
petrol pump at Dabra on NH3. Its fascinating
Accommodation in the form handmade paper
of state tourism hotel and factory is an
guesthouses is available at interesting
Gwalior, Jhansi and Orchha. experimental
Local buses run between centre aimed at
the major stops. upgrading local
craftsmanship.
180 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Jahangiri Mahal
Named after the Mughal emperor Jahangir, who spent
one night here with his Bundela ally Bir Singh Deo, this
is an excellent example of Rajput Bundela architecture.
The many-layered palace has 132 chambers off and above the
central courtyard and an almost equal number of subterranean
rooms. The square sandstone palace is extravagantly embellished
with lapis lazuli tiles, graceful chhatris and ornate jaali screens.
The palace also has a modest museum.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Palace Complex.
Open 8am–6pm daily.
Closed public hols. n MPTDC,
Sheesh Mahal. & 8 0 m
Museum: Open 10am–5pm.
. Screened Corridor
A screened corridor runs round the fourth level
which has eight pavilions with lavishly painted
interiors, separated by courts.
Glazed Tilework
Geometric lapis motifs
decorate the outer
façade at the
upper levels.
Plan of Orchha
The fortified town of Orchha
encloses three major palaces
and ruined ancillary structures.
KEY
1 Jahangiri Mahal 3
1 Carved niches line the
outer walls. 2 Sheesh Mahal
3 Raj Mahal
2 Jahangir’s bedroom 2
4 Rai Praveen Mahal 1
3 Fortified bastions protect
5 Hamam 6
the palace.
6 Stable
4 The central courtyard can be 5
viewed from each part of the palace Key 4
and has a small museum in a set of
rooms that run along it. Area illustrated above
BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA 183
At the end of the 11th century, the alliances paved the way for peace
Kachhawahas of Jaipur established their in the region. The result was a cultural
kingdom at Amber. In the region around it and social synthesis which produced
lay other Rajput kingdoms – the Chauhan some outstanding art and architecture.
stronghold of Ajmer that would soon fall The British also followed this policy of
to Muslim forces, and the massive Rathore appeasement and offered the princes
jungle fort of Ranthambhore, which would military protection in return for their
later become a Mughal preserve. By the loyalty. The rule of the princely states
18th century the fierce feudal lords of ended when, after Independence, they
Shekhawati would become vassals of were incorporated into the modern
Amber-Jaipur, while Jat kings would rule Indian state of Rajasthan, with Jaipur
over Bharatpur, the only non-Rajput as the administrative capital.
kingdom in the area. But despite democracy, the Rajput
The early Rajput states engaged in feudal tradition, with its code of loyalty
bitter internecine clan wars, but with to the local chieftain, and immense pride
the rise of the Delhi sultans (see pp54–5), in their past, remains alive. This is perhaps
their energies were directed at keeping what has preserved the extraordinary
their lands safe from the marauding culture of the region, so that for many
Muslim troops. Finally, under the Mughal it still remains the romantic land of forts,
emperor Akbar, military and matrimonial palaces and kings it was in medieval times.
SH
site of a powerful medieval kingdom, beyond Dundlodh
EK OUR
Maonda
which is the spectacular tiger sanctuary of Tarla
T
HA
Ranthambhore, nestling beneath the grand Lachhmangarh
Nawalgarh
WA
ramparts of a historic medieval fort. Udaipur
TI
Nim Ka
Thana
Sikar
Khandela
Thoi
Bosana
Palsana Ringas
RAJASTHAN
SAMODE
Ramgarh
CHOMU
Kuchaman
Bheslana
MAKRANA
SAMBHAR JAIPUR
SALT LAKE Phulera
A roadside tea stall
BAGRU
Roopangarh SANGANER
Dudu
Key KISHANGARH
Phagi
Highway Sewa
Major road
AJMER Nimera
Minor road PUSHKAR Arain Banwara
Railroad Ganor
Kaser
State border
Nasirabad Malpura
Junia
TONK
Bandanwara
0 kilometres 25 Beawar Sarwar Toda Raisingh
Kekri
0 miles 25
Udaipur
Nagar
Devli
Kota
Getting Around
Jaipur’s airport is at Sanganer (see p286), and two
superfast trains (the Pink City Express and Shatabdi
Express) connect the city to Delhi. Air-conditioned luxury
coaches from Delhi to Jaipur are run by Rajasthan Tourism
(see p291). The rest of the region is best explored by road.
The Palace on Wheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
(see p289) offer luxury rail tours for well-heeled tourists who
wish to savour the trip through the desert in royal comfort.
Delhi
Narnaul
Tijara
Bahror
A sacred tank at Galta
Kishangarh
Jindoli
Kot Putli
Bansur
Pragpura
ALWAR
SILISERH
BAIRAT Milakpur
Malakhera
Shahpura Mathura
Sariska
SARISKA NP
Partabgarh
RAJGARH
BHANGARH
Agra
Mahwa
AMBER Maota Lake in front of Amber Palace
Ramgarh Dausa Sakrai
Basi
Toda Bhim
Sights at a Glance
Gurha
Tunga 1 Jaipur (see pp186–203)
Tours
Printed textiles drying in the sun at Sanganer e Shekhawati
1 Jaipur
A labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, opulent
palaces and historic sights, Jaipur offers a
chance to see the medieval alongside the
modern. On its colourful streets, camels jostle
for space with motorbikes, and turbaned village
elders rub shoulders with youngsters in jeans.
Often called the Pink City because its
prominent buildings are washed with this
colour, Jaipur’s old walled area has the City
Govind Dev Temple, dedicated to Krishna
Palace Museum, a medieval astronomical
observatory, and bazaars that sell everything from precious channels and fountains. Towards
jewellery to camel skin shoes. Recent additions include a the north of the sight is Badal
multi-arts centre, yet the city’s focal point is still the myriad- Mahal, a five-arched hunting
windowed pink Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds. pavilion on the banks of the
Talkatora. Its ceilings still bear
faint traces of the cloud
(badal) patterns.
E City Palace Museum to him. Jai Singh then moved JH
O
ROTW
See pp192–5. to the Chandra Mahal, at the AD A AR
A RO D A
R
ND
opposite end of the garden, N T ICH
A
CHAND
KA POLE
Govind Dev Temple and installed the image as the VI
PA J A
THY
CO L L E C T O R
RD
Bus Terminal
ROAD
A
R
D
N
_ Holi (Mar), Janmashtami are allowed only N R
OA
D
A
VA M
H
AT E
TIO C
S TA
NA AR
N
SA
TH
Station
The presiding deity of this their god seven
I L
RG
RO AN
Temple in Brindavan (see p166), (see p43). A
M
AD
M
AL
DAHAG
YA
PA
Y Jai
MA
PR
A
RG
VI SARO J I N I
SA
M
RD
RA
Aurangzeb. It is believed that Open 6am– J R
A
IR
OA
RG
AV
Raj Mahal
M
S TAT U E
pavilion called Suraj Mahal, Just behind the Palace
EL
CIRCLE
H O SP
ITA L
R G PAT
RD
K
LA
S
SA
YU Central Park
one night, the king awoke from private leisure ground D
AN
BH MA HIST
AW RG IR
his sleep to find himself in for the ladies of the
W
A
M NI S
AG
Sanganer Airport
15km (9 miles)
SANGANER
Sights at a Glance
1 City Palace Museum
2 Govind Dev Temple
3 Jai Niwas Bagh
4 Talkatora
5 Chaugan Stadium
6 Tripolia Bazaar
7 Jantar Mantar
8 Hawa Mahal
A view of the walled city of Jaipur 9 Govt Central Museum
JAIPUR 187
Bagh
AAR
TA
WA
AZ
ROO
TA
I KA
BAG
Temple T RA
AAR
GAU
BAZ
AAR
KA
City Palace
BAZ
GAN
JAI
CH
Museum held at the time of Holi (see p42).
AN
HAL
DPO
OAD
TA
LE B Jantar
AZ AAR Hawa THE
A
RAS
Mantar
AS R
A M
Mahal
PINK CITY
LO N
A
AAR
HAW
NIK
TRIP
JI K
OLI
K A E WA
A B
TA
AZ
AZA
RA
AR
AN
RAS
E B
RAM
GHO
JAN
TA
K A LY
Jami GAN
POL
J BA
RAS
Masjid Z
KHA
AAR
AAR
HAN
URA
AAR
IND
IRA
BAZ
KIS
BAZ
CHA
AAR GALTA
BAZ
ARI
NE
B A ZH R U
AJA
JOH
AAR
Ajmeri BA
BAZ PU
RW
Gate AAR
T DA
New
Gate
GHA
Bagh
RO
ROA
D
D
RD
GA
GH
ON
SMS
RU
Hospital
SIN
EH
L N
RLA
AHA
I
JAW
Indology
SA
I A
O L
R I P
T
M
A
N
IH
Chandpol
A
R
O
N
N
AT
Chhoti Chaupar
A
A
N
(“small square”)
R
IY
leads to Kishanpol
S
O
T
A
N
Bazaar, famous
for its shops
KA
K
selling rose-,
RA
I S
saffron-, almond-
ST
and vetiver-
H
A
A
flavoured sherbets.
N
P O
L
B
A
Z A
. Hawa Mahal
An unfamiliar rear view of the Hawa Mahal, seen
from the City Palace. . Johari Bazaar
Badi Chaupar Vegetable sellers sit at one end of this
street where the big gem dealers also
have their offices and shops.
Surajpol
JO
H
A
R
IB
A R A
Z
Z A A
B A A
R
C
H
A
U
R
A
ST
A
RA
R
A
KA
S
T
I
A
J
P AL
GO 0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Key
Jami Masjid
Tall minarets define the “Friday
Mosque”, its three storeys
fronted by arched screens.
Pottery Shop
Large terracotta urns, pots of all sizes, bells, statues,
foot-scrapers and oil lamps made by traditional
craftsmen are sold here.
190 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
P Hawa Mahal
Sireh Deori Bazaar. Tel (0141)
261 8862. Open 9am–5pm
daily. Closed Holi & public hols.
& 8 9 extra charges.
A whimsical addition to
Rajasthan’s rich architectural
vocabulary, the fanciful Hawa
Mahal or “Palace of Winds” was
erected in 1799 by the aesthete
Sawai Pratap Singh (r.1778–
1803). Its ornate façade has
become an icon for the city, a
tiered baroque-like composition Façade of Hawa Mahal
of projecting windows and
balconies with perforated P Tripolia Bazaar (slippers) and feather-light
screens. Though five storeys To the south of the City Palace cotton quilts. In the centre of
high it is just one room deep, is one of the walled city’s this lively commercial artery
with walls no thicker than 20 busiest streets and bazaars. stands the majestic Tripolia
cm (8 inches). Built of lime and The shops here mainly sell (“triple-arched”) Gate.
mortar and painted pink, this an enormous range of metal Constructed in 1734, this was
structure was so designed to goods and kitchenware. The once the main entrance to the
enable the purdahed ladies of pavements outside the shops palace and on festive occasions,
the harem to watch unnoticed attractively display utensils crowds watched the royal
the colourful street scenes and in brass, copper, entourage of
state processions on Sireh aluminium and the maharaja
Deori Bazaar below. Visitors steel as well and his nobles
are permitted to climb up as crowbars, (thakurs), clad
the winding ramp to the top. chisels and in ceremonial
Pratap Singh was a poet, other assorted robes, seated
composer and patron of the hardware. on elephants
arts. A devotee of Krishna, he Sometimes, and horses, pass
dedicated the Hawa Mahal to handicrafts, Detail of a painted gate through this
him, and many believe that plastic and impressive gate.
when seen from afar, the paper products, such as the Today, its use is confined to
building looks like the mukut traditional red cloth-bound members of the royal family and
(crown) that often adorns bahi khathas (account books) their special guests, and a guard
Lord Krishna’s head. still used by merchants and on duty reminds visitors that
A gateway towards the west moneylenders, are also laid this is not a public thoroughfare.
leads into the complex and to out. At Badi Chaupar, towards A short distance from Tripolia
the administrative offices and the end of the street, are Gate, towards the east, is the
the Archaeological Museum. flower-sellers with baskets full well-maintained Nawab Saheb
of fragrant roses, marigolds, ki Haveli, named after Nawab
E Archaeological Museum tuberoses and jasmine, and Faiz Ali Khan, Ram Singh II’s
Tripolia Bazaar. Open 9am–5:30pm. shops selling silver jewellery, (see p198) prime minister.
Closed Fri & public hols. & hand-embroidered jootis This 18th-century mansion was
once the residence of Vidyadhar
Chakravarty (see p187), who is
believed to have chosen this site
to supervise the building of the
new city of Jaipur. Its enclosed
terrace offers some marvellous
views of the city. Other havelis
of eminent citizens can be seen
in the narrow alleys off the main
street. Some of these gracious
old buildings are still occupied
by descendants of the original
owners, others have been
rented out to schools, shops
and offices.
Jewellery
Be it the fabulous emeralds and rubies sported by former maharajas and their queens
or the splendid silver and bone ornaments worn by peasants, jewellery is an integral
part of Rajasthani culture. Even camels, horses and elephants are adorned with specially
designed anklets and necklaces. Jaipur is one of the largest ornament-making centres
in India, and meenakari (enamelling) and kundankari (inlaying) are two traditional
techniques for which it is most famous. In the 16th century, Man Singh I (see p53), influ-
enced by the prevailing fashions of the Mughal court, brought the first five Sikh enamel
workers from Lahore to his state. Since then, generations of highly skilled jewellers have
lived and worked here. Jaipur caters to every taste, from chunky silver ornaments to
elegant designs intricately set in gold with precious stones.
. Mubarak Mahal
This sandstone “Welcome Palace”
was built in 1900 by Madho Singh II
to receive guests, hence the name.
It is now the costume and textile gallery.
. Silver Urns
Two giant silver urns in
the Diwan-i-Khas, listed in
the Guinness Book as the
largest silver vessels in the
world, carried sacred Ganges
water for Madho Singh II’s
visit to London in 1901.
Sabha Niwas
Sparkling glass mirrors embellished
with intricate designs are among the
many stunning features in the
Entrance Durbar Hall (audience hall).
Textiles and
Costumes Gallery
A glittering collection of textiles
and costumes from the royal
toshakhana (treasure house)
is displayed on the ground floor
of Mubarak Mahal. Also known
as the Welcome Palace, this was
a reception centre for visiting
dignitaries. On view here are
rich brocades, known as
kimkhabs, from Surat,
The palatial interior of the Chandra Mahal Aurangabad and Varanasi,
exquisitely embroidered and
The second floor, Suhk Niwas handloom-woven shawls from
Chandra Mahal (Hall of Pleasure), has an open Kashmir, embroidered silks,
The beautiful Chandra Mahal terrace. Possibly built in honour embossed velvets and light,
(Moon Palace) or Satkhana of Sawai Jai Singh’s beloved gossamer muslins typical of
Mahal (Seven Storied Palace) queen, Sukh Kanwar, it is Dhaka (today in Bangladesh),
is located in the north-west decorated with colourful floral which collectively represent
of the vast City Palace. It was designs and Mughal miniatures. India’s great textile tradition.
planned and built by Jaipur’s Rang Mandir (Temple of Colour), The expert and refined crafts-
chief architect Vidhyadhar the third floor, is embellished manship that existed in Jaipur
Chakravorty for Maharaja with mirrors in the walls, pillars almost three centuries ago is
Sawai Jai Singh II (see p187), and ceilings, as is the fourth floor, visible in the wide variety of
and was completed in 1734. hand-blockprinted textiles from
Each of the seven floors is nearby Sanganer and tie-and-
luxuriously decorated with dye (bandhini) pieces specially
paintings, floral decorations, produced by the printers and
tiling and mirrors. The ground dyers from the palace
and first floors of the palace workshops. Equally breathtaking
house the extensive art is the incredible range of well-
collection of the Maharaja preserved royal garments.
Sawai Man Singh II Museum. Dazzling gathered skirts and
Artworks include life-sized long, flowing veils (odhnis),
portraits of Jaipur rulers by decorated with delicate zari
the German artist AH Muller (gold thread embroidery) and
(1878–1952) and miniatures gota (gold or silver frill), worn
of the Rajasthani, Persian and by the ladies of the court, vie
Mughal schools. Enamelware, for attention with the brocaded
weaponry, carpets, and dresses robes, waistbands (patkas),
and costumes worn by former pyjamas and turbans that
royals of Jaipur complete One of the rare Mughal miniatures in the comprised the male attire.
the collection. Chandra Mahal The most striking of these
C I T Y PA L A C E M U S E U M 195
Transport Gallery
A comparatively recent addition
is the Transport Gallery situated
near the Art Gallery. It exhibits
palanquins, chariots, ikkas,
buggies and carriages from
the old Buggi Khana which
fell into disuse after the motor
car became popular with
Fragment of a 16th-century Persian carpet the maharajas.
196 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Jantar Mantar
Of the five observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh II,
the one in Jaipur is the largest and best preserved; the
others are in Delhi (see p81), Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi.
A keen astronomer himself, Jai Singh was aware of the latest
astronomical studies in the world, and was most inspired
by the work of Mirza Ulugh Beg, the astronomer-king of
Samarkand. Built between 1728 and 1734, this observatory Narivalaya Yantra
resembles a giant sculptural composition of 16 instruments Inclined at 27°, these
and has been described as “the most realistic and logical represent the two hemi-
landscape in stone”. Some of the instruments are still used to spheres and are sundials
that calculate time by
forecast how hot the summer months will be, the expected following the solar cycle.
date of arrival, duration and intensity of the monsoon, and
the possibility of floods and famine.
Unnatansha Yantra
was used to determine
the positions of stars and
planets at any time of day
or night.
City Palace
Museum
Entrance
Chakra Yantra
A brass tube passes through
the centre of two circular
metal instruments through
which the angle of stars and
planets from the equator can . Ram Yantra
be observed. Vertical columns support an equal number of horizontal slabs
in two identical stone structures that comprise this instrument.
The readings from these determine the celestial arc from
horizon to zenith, as well as the altitude of the sun.
JAIPUR 197
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chandni Chowk, outside City Palace.
Tel (0141) 261 0494. Open 9am–
5pm daily. Closed Holi & public
hols. & 8 9 extra charges.
m Son et Lumière: 6:30pm daily.
Jantar Mantar
The complex of stone and metal instruments was
repaired with the addition of marble inlay
by Madho Singh II in 1901.
. Samrat Yantra
Jai Singh believed that gigantic
instruments would give more
accurate results. This 27-m (90-ft)
high sundial forecasts the crop
prospects for the year.
Hawa Mahal
Rashivalaya Yantra
This is composed of 12 pieces, each of
which represents a sign of the zodiac and
so faces a different angle and constellation.
This unique yantra is still used by astrologers
to make accurate horoscopes.
known as Balaji). This endearing the Jaipur court created a tranquil Kachhawahas. It was built
deity is cherished by the local summer retreat in this valley, by the dynasty’s founder,
people who treat him with tender when the area would bustle with Duleh Rai (r.1093–1135),
care, and in winter wrap his image the constant coming and going after he defeated the local
in a muffler and quilt to keep him of aristocracy. Now, the deserted Meenas by attacking them
warm. The monkeys that inhabit havelis, temples and bathing ghats on a Diwali night when
the area are equally well looked are all that remain of this once they were forbidden to
after. Every evening at 4pm, a exclusive resort. On either side carry weapons.
charming ritual takes place when, of the road are dense rows of A lake created here in
to the call of the priests, hordes of niched façades perforated by tiny the 19th century was once
silver grey langurs with black faces windows and arched chhatris, Jaipur’s main source of
and long tails descend on the elegant eaves and domes, while drinking water but has
temple for a meal specially among the ruins and winding been dry for several years
cooked for them. Then, swishing alleys, a number of tea-stalls and due to insufficient rainfall.
their tails, they head back to the little shops selling trinkets and On its northern bank is
valley that bears their name. souvenirs have sprung up. Ramgarh Lodge, an elegant
hunting lodge built in 1931
P Ghat ki Guni P Ramgarh for the Jaipur royal family.
6 km (4 miles) E of Jaipur on Agra Rd. 40 km (25 miles) E of Jaipur. It is now a pleasing heritage
In the 18th and 19th centuries Ramgarh is the site of one of hotel and makes a relaxing
the ministers and dignitaries of the earliest fortresses of the retreat from Jaipur.
2 Amber Fort
The fort palace of Amber was the Kachhawaha
citadel until 1727, when their capital moved to Jaipur.
However, successive rulers continued to come here on
all important occasions to seek the blessings of the family
deity, Shila Devi. The citadel was established in 1592 by
Man Singh I on the remains of an earlier 11th-century fort,
but various buildings added by Jai Singh I (r.1621–67)
constitute its magnificent centrepiece.
. Sheesh Mahal
The flame of a single candle,
reflected in the tiny mirrors
embedded in this chamber,
transforms it into a starlit sky.
Jas Mandir
This hall of private audience has latticed
windows, a floral ceiling of elegant alabaster
relief work and glass inlay. A marble screen here
overlooks the Maota Lake and wafts in cool air.
Location of KEY
Amber Fort
Protected by 1 Jai Mandir
Jaigarh Fort, the
2 Aram Bagh, the pleasure garden.
massive ramparts
of Amber Fort 3 Sukh Niwas
follow the 4 Diwan-i-Aam
contours of a
natural ridge. 5 Sattais Katcheri
AMBER 205
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jaipur district. 11 km (6 miles)
N of Jaipur. Road map C3.
Tel (0141) 253 0293.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm daily.
Closed public hols. & 8=-
Son et Lumiere: 7:30pm daily.
. Ganesh Pol
The shimmering three-storeyed
gateway built in 1640 leads to the
private apartments, connected by
the screened upper-most level
for ladies in purdah.
Kesar Kyari Bagh, named after rare saffron flowers once planted in its star-shaped flower beds
AMBER 207
4 Bagru
Jaipur district. 32 km (20 miles) SW
of Jaipur past Sanganer on Ajmer Rd.
Road map C3. @ ( daily.
Blockprinted Textiles
Delicate flowers and foliage, paisleys, birds and animals on a white background are
Sanganer’s typical motifs. Handed down from father to son, these designs were inspired
by the flower studies of miniature paintings (see pp36–7) and Mughal pietra dura motifs
(see pp160–61). Blockprinting can be seen in the workshops of the city’s Chhipa Mohalla,
where each stage of this ancient technique, from chiselling intricate patterns on wooden
blocks, to dyeing the fabric in huge copper vats on wood-fed fires, and printing, is all
done by hand. In the more complex designs, a single motif may use up to ten different
colours with as many blocks, each with a different design. In the final stage, swathes of
printed cloth are spread on riverbanks or hung on huge frames to dry under the sky.
Handmade Paper
The Kagazi Mohalla, the
Bagru’s floral, colony of papermakers,
figurative and geo- recycles scraps of cloth
metric motifs are and silk thread to produce
printed on a coarse an impressive range of
cotton cloth that is decorative and functional
made into blouses paper products. Fabric is first
and gathered skirts converted into pulp and then
worn by local women. flattened on a wire mesh. The
However, in recent thin sheets of paper are finally
years, these earthy peeled off and hung up to dry.
prints have become These craftsmen jealously
popular in urban preserve their trade secrets Sheets of handmade
centres too. and seldom marry outsiders. paper hung to dry
210 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
5 Alwar
Situated between Mughal and Rajput territories, Alwar’s
place in history was manipulated by its rulers who made
shrewd alliances to gain political leverage. Alwar’s growth
from a vassal state of the Kachhawaha kings to a significant
Rajput state came about after Pratap Singh captured the
fort of Bala Qila in 1775. Later, as the British cultivated it
as a friendly base in Rajputana, there followed a burst of
architectural extravagance that went along with a lavish
round of tiger shoots, as its rulers tried to rival the glittering
lifestyle of their cousins in Jaipur. Today, Alwar is a dusty
provincial town with some remarkable monuments, mostly
visited by tourists on their way to the Sariska National Park.
City Palace version of the rare and precious From the Gulistan, an 18th-century
Near Collectorate. Gulistan of the great Persian Mughal manuscript, City Palace Museum
Open 10am–4:30pm. poet Sa’adi, as well as the Babur
A stunning profusion of Nama or “Memoirs of Babur” E City Palace Museum
architectural features marks this (1530). The awesome armoury Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Fri
palace, with Rajput bangaldar display includes the swords of & public hols. & ^
eaves and elegant chhatris Mohammed Ghori, Akbar and T Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri
alongside Mughal floral tracery Aurangzeb, and a macabre coil Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Fri &
and jaalis. Built in 1793, the called nagphas, used for public hols. & Shoes not allowed.
palace is now largely occupied strangling enemies. The first
by the District Collectorate room contains a silver dining T Bala Qila
and Police Headquarters, so table with dividers, through Open daily. Written permission
it is best viewed from the which moving metal shoals is needed from the office of the
large central courtyard. A of swimming fish can be seen. Superintendent of Police, City Palace.
stairway flanked by two Behind the palace, across a Perched on a steep hill above
marble kiosks leads from magnificent kund, is the the city, easily accessible by car,
here to the Durbar Hall and cenotaph of Maharaja the Bala Qila was originally a
Sheesh Mahal, where special Bakhtawar Singh (r.1791– 10th-century mud fort. Several
entry permission is required. 1815). It is locally known as additions were made to it by the
A door on the right of the Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri Jats and Mughals (Babur is said
courtyard leads to the City after his mistress who to have spent a night here) until
Palace Museum, spread performed sati here it was finally captured in 1775 by
over three halls of the Dagger, City when he died. One of Pratap Singh of Alwar. Now a
upper storey. These Palace Museum Rajasthan’s most elegant police wireless station, this
contain some treasures monuments, blending sprawling fort was defended by
of the erstwhile rulers, such brown sandstone and white 66 large and small towers. The
as their famed collection of marble, its carved pavilion has frescoed palace within, the
miniature paintings of the domed arches with exquisite Nikumbh Mahal, was named
Alwar, Jaipur and Mughal floral tracery, and ceilings after its first occupants, the
schools. The 7,000 rare adorned with fading gold leaf Nikumbh Rajputs. The entire city
manuscripts in Persian, Arabic, paintings of mythological can be seen from the fort’s exten-
Urdu and Sanskrit include an characters and sive ramparts, which give an idea
illuminated Koran, a courtly scenes. of its scale and of the engineering
skills that went into its building.
Also visible are the ruins of Salim
Mahal, named after Jahangir
(Salim), who was exiled here after
he plotted to kill Abu’l Fazl, Akbar’s
official biographer and one of
the “nine gems” of his court.
Y Company Bagh
Vivekanand Marg. Open 6am–6pm.
A lovely garden when it was laid
out in 1868, the Company Bagh
The elegant marble pavilion at Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri is now a shadow of its former
JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 211
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Alwar district. 150 km (93 miles)
NE of Jaipur. Road map C3.
* 315,300. n TRC, near
Railway Station, Alwar, (0144) 234
7348; Paryatan Bhavan, MI Road,
Jaipur, (0141) 511 0595. ( daily.
_ Jagannathji Fair (Mar–Apr),
Laldas Mela (May), Sawan Teej
(Jul–Aug), Diwali (Oct–Nov).
Transport
£ Nehru Marg. @ Manu Marg.
The aqueduct which brought water from Siliserh to the Company Bagh
self. It was originally named after five-storeyed monument, palace-fortress to the south
Alwar’s British ally and protector, constructed in 1647. Dominated of the Company Bagh blown
the East India Company. Later, by an enormous dome, its walls up because it offended his
it was christened Purjan Vihar and ceiling have raised plaster sensibilities. Vijay Mandir was
by Maharaja Jai Singh. An reliefs, and fine calligraphic his last official residence and
enchanting greenhouse here inscriptions can be seen on he lived here for many years.
is named “Simla”, because it the first floor. A school now The former ruling family still
reminded the maharaja of the occupies the tomb’s compound. occupies it and reserves the
British summer capital in North right of admission to it.
India. A 3-km (2-mile) long Environs Alwar is full of apocryphal
aqueduct, made of solid stone To the north of Alwar, located stories of Jai Singh’s strange
masonry, brought water from a at the edge of Vijay Sagar tastes. His Bugatti cars were
reservoir at Siliserh to this garden. Lake, is the 105-roomed Vijay “buried” after he tired of
Mandir Palace, built to look them, and he once famously
Fateh Jang’s Tomb like an anchored ship by Jai ordered a custom-made
Near Alwar Railway Station. Singh (r.1892–1937). A great gold Lancaster car that
Open 9:30am–4:30pm. builder of palaces, the eccen- resembled the King of
The tomb of Fateh Jang, one tric Jai Singh had the famous England’s coronation
of Shah Jahan’s ministers, is a 100-roomed Moti Doongri coach, minus the horses!
Moosi
Shiva
RAGHU MA
Maharani
ki Chhatri Temple
NEHRU MARG
City Palace
Complex New Tej
Theatre
B H A G AT
BAJA SINGH
JA B Clock
AZA AR R CIRCLE J AY
D Tower MARG
Station
Company
Bagh
Railway
Station
NANGALI
CIRCLE
DELHI
V I N AY M A R G
NEHRU MARG
G
GHU MAR
Phool
Bagh
RA
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
JAIPUR
6 Siliserh
Alwar district. 13 km (8 miles) SW
of Alwar. Road map C3. n Tourist
Office, opposite Railway Station,
Alwar, (0144) 234 7348. @
Environs
On the road to Bhangarh
is Ajabgarh, built by Madho
Singh’s grandson as a new
settlement for the people of
Bhangarh. Part of the old town
is under water, but a fort and
Carved bracket from the Mangala Devi Temple, Bhangarh some ruins may still be seen.
Sariska Palace
An elegant 19th-
century hunting lodge
of the Alwar rulers, this
palace, now a luxury
hotel, has a collection
Ba
of vintage photographs
ra
of past hunts, and
Na
la
period furnishings.
Sariska
Bharthari
Jaipur Bandipol
Thanaghazi Karnawas
Udainath Kankwadi
Entrance
J
Kalighati
Endangered Species
Rampant poaching in the past years has depleted the
park’s tiger population. Approximately five remain.
Tehla
Water Holes
To combat the chronic
shortage of water in
the region, the Forest
Department has laid out
a series of water holes at
Pandupol, Bandipol, Slopka,
Kalighati and Talvriksha.
These make good vantage
points to view wildlife,
especially at sunset, when
herds of animals flock to
them to quench their thirst.
JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 215
Flora
The dry deciduous forests
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of Sariska come to life during
Practical Information
the brief spring and early
Alwar district. 103 km (22 miles)
summer when the flowering
NE of Jaipur. Road map C3.
dhak (Butea monosperma)
n Field Director, Project Tiger
and laburnum bloom. The
Sanctuary, Sariska (0144) 284
date palm begins to bear
1333. Open 6–10am, 3–6pm.
fruit, while berries, locally
Closed Jul–Sep. & extra for
known as kair (Capparis
personal vehicles or jeeps.
decidua) appear
8-0
on the bushes.
Transport
@ Alwar.
Alwar
Jackal
Jackals and hyenas often lead trackers to a tiger kill.
Along with panthers and jungle cats, these carnivores
feed on the many species of deer, nilgai or blue bull,
wild boar and porcupine in the forest.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 2
Pandupol
J
J Umri
Slopka
Cheetal
The gentle cheetal or spotted
deer, like the sambar, is
commonly seen at the park’s
water holes, or resting under
the trees. The other deer
species, the chowsingha (four-
horned antelope), is specific
to Sariska and can be seen
around Pandupol.
Key
Major road
Minor road Grey Partridge
The hides at Kalighati and Slopka are ideal for observing the
Park border park’s birdlife, such as the crested serpent eagle, the great
Trails Indian horned owl, wood-peckers, kingfishers and partridge.
For keys to symbols see back flap
216 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
q Chomu
Jaipur district. 32 km (20 miles) NW
of Jaipur. Road map C3. n Paryatan
Bhawan, Khasa Kothi Hotel Campus,
MI Rd, Jaipur, (0141) 511 0598. ( daily.
e A Tour of Shekhawati
Northeast of Jaipur, situated along the old camel caravan
trade route, lies Shekhawati, or the “garden of Shekha”,
named after Rao Shekha, a fiercely independent ruler
who consolidated the region in the 15th century. Today,
the region resembles a vast open-air museum full of
frescoed mansions. A network of excellent roads through
semi-arid scrubland connects most towns and villages
where the painted havelis of India’s leading merchant
families stand today in ghostly splendour.
Gods and goddesses frolic on the wall of
Biyani Haveli, Sikar
4 Mandawa
The fort-palace is
now a charming hotel
and a convenient base
from which to visit the
neighbouring towns.
3 Fatehpur
This picturesque mid-15th
century town is best known for the
Singhania, Goenka and Jalan havelis.
Jhunjhunu
Key
Tour route Mukundgarh
Roads 5 Dundlod
Its fort-palace
Rivers and two splendid
Goenka havelis
are worth a visit.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10 6 Nawalgarh
The Poddar and the
Aath (“eight”) havelis
2 Lachhmangarh are renowned for
This 19th-century town is their frescoes.
based on Jaipur’s grid plan.
The Char Chowk (“four
coutyards”) Haveli, owned by
the Ganeriwala family, is said to
be the grandest in the region.
Nagaur
y Kishangarh The old city is certainly worth the region is famous. The Phool
Ajmer district. 30 km (19 miles) NE
exploring as it remains much Mahal, a privately-owned
of Ajmer on NH 8. Road map B4. as it was in the past. The narrow palace which is now a heritage
* 155,000. n Khadim Hotel, Ajmer. streets are lined with havelis, hotel (see p241), has an idyllic
some of which have been setting on the banks of a
Of all Rajputana’s princely states, converted into shops, and on lake that attracts a variety of
this was the smallest. It was the pavements are vendors waterbirds. Shady balconies,
established in the early 17th selling all kinds of merchandise, courtyard gardens and brass
century by Kishan Singh, a Rathore including red chillies for which doors flanked by paintings
prince from Jodhpur, on lands hint at its past glory.
near Ajmer. The king’s sister was
one of Jahangir’s wives, a privilege T Phool Mahal
that gave him a special status at Tel (01463) 24 7405/7505.
the Mughal court. An obvious
outcome of this proximity was Environs
that the Kishangarh kings tried The 17th-century Roopangarh
to emulate the cultured lifestyle Fort, 25 km (15 miles) from
of the Mughal emperors, and Kishangarh, was once the
when the arts lost imperial capital of the state. Among
patronage under the leadership the riches of this splendid
of the austere Aurangzeb, this tiny heritage hotel is a rare
state became a haven for several Roopangarh Fort, built in the 17th century, collection of the famous
migrant miniature painters. now a charming heritage hotel Kishangarh miniatures.
u Street-by-Street: Pushkar
A peaceful pilgrim town of lakes and 400 temples, Pushkar
derives its name from pushpa (flower) and kar (hand) after a
legend that says that its lakes were created from the petals that
fell from the divine hands of Brahma, the Creator (see pp28–9).
Today, life revolves around its lakeside ghats, temples and
vibrant, colourful bazaars, and it is this harmonious mix of
the spiritual and commercial that draws people to Pushkar.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
SA
D
A
R
BA
ZA
A
R
To Savitri Temple
RG
A
Badi Ganeshji
. Brahma Temple
M
Temple
A
Parshuram Temple
Pushkar Lake
On top of a hill, by
the sacred lake at
Puskhar, is the
temple of Savitri.
Across the lake, on
Key
another hill, is the
Suggested route Gayatri Temple.
JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 221
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Ajmer district. 144 km (89 miles)
SW of Jaipur. Road map B4.
* 15,000. ( 9am–8pm daily.
_ Pushkar fair (Nov). No eggs,
meat or alcohol available/
allowed. n RTDC, Hotel Sarovar,
Pushkar Lake, (0145) 277 2040.
Transport
@ RTDC, Hotel Sarovar, Pushkar Camel race at the Pushkar fair
Lake, (0145) 277 2040.
Rangaji Temple Pushkar Mela
This temple is conspicuous for its In the Hindu month of
South Indian style of architecture. Kartik (Nov), ten days after
Its gopuram (pagoda) towers over Diwali, this quiet town and
the area. The temple is not open its environs come alive as
to foreign visitors. the much-anticipated annual
cattle fair gets going. Several
campsites and temporary
Digambar Jain tents suddenly appear to
Dharamshala accommodate the thousands
Mosque of pilgrims, tourists and
Women at Sadar Bazaar villagers who come here
with herds of cattle, horses
and camels to participate
To Ajmer bus stop
in this spectacular event.
To th Pushkar has always been
e fai
r gro the region’s main cattle market
und
for local herdsmen and farmers
buying and selling camels
and indigenous breeds of
cattle. Over the years, this
AR To trade in livestock has
BAZA S un increased in volume and
SADAR set
po has become one of Asia’s
int
largest cattle fairs.
In the vast, specially-built
amphitheatre that lies on the
outskirts of the town, camel,
horse and donkey races and
contests take place amid lusty
cheers from a huge audience.
A festive funfair atmosphere
prevails over Pushkar during
the Mela’s two-week duration.
Chhatri Giant ferris wheels and open-
air theatres offer amusement,
while food and souvenir stalls
do brisk business. In the
evenings, people huddle
round campfires, listening
to the haunting strains of
Rajasthani folk ballads.
The fair reaches a crescendo
on the night of the full moon
(purnima), when pilgrims take
a dip in the holy lake. At dusk,
during the mesmerizing
. Ghats deepdan ceremony, hundreds
Pushkar has 52 ghats. Devout Hindus make at least one of clay lamps on leaf boats
pilgrimage to Pushkar and bathe at the holy ghats to wash are lit and set afloat in a
away their sins and thereby earn themselves salvation. magical tableau.
222 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
E Government
P Taragarh Fort Museum Ajmer
Taragarh Rd. Tel (0145) 262 7426. Near bus stand. Tel (0145) 262 0637.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. Open 10am–4:30pm daily.
The rugged, sprawling 7th-century Closed public hols. &
“Star Fort” occupies the summit Akbar’s fort and palace was the
of Beetli Hill. A series of five first seat of Mughal power in
gateways lead into this once- Rajasthan and was later used by
impregnable citadel, said to be the British as an arsenal. On the
the earliest hill fort in the country. orders of Viceroy Lord Curzon, it
Many ruined buildings lie within was converted into a museum in
it, among which are a mosque, 1908. Formerly known as the
still in use, and the shrine of Miran Rajputana Museum, its varied
Sayyid Hussain, a 12th-century collection highlights sculpture
governor of the fort. The later The Dargah Sharif dome rising above the and other antiquities gathered
structures were added by the surrounding houses from sites all over Rajasthan. The
British whose troops occupied most impressive exhibits are the
the fort in the 19th century. religious fair held during the sculptures dating from the 4th to
Urs in the 18th century. Like 12th centuries, of which the most
Dargah Sharif the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque at remarkable are the four-armed
See pp224–5. Delhi’s Qutb complex (see p117), Vishnu seated on Garuda, and a
also built at the same time, pillars door-frame from the ancient site
T Adhai Din ka Jhonpra and fragments from nearby of Baghera, depicting the ten
N of Dargah Sharif, Nalla Bazaar. Hindu and Jain temples were avataras of Vishnu. Other important
Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Mon used for its construction. displays include antique coins,
& public hols. The mosque itself, said to have inscriptions, copper plates,
This impressive complex of been built over a demolished paintings and weapons.
pillared cloisters is all that remains Jain college, stands on a platform
of a mosque built around AD 1198 cut out of the hillside, with ten Nasiyan Temple
by the ruler of the Slave dynasty, shallow domes supported by Anok Chowk, Prithviraj Marg.
Qutbuddin Aibak. Some say that 124 columns. The glory of the Open summer: 8am–5pm;
the mosque’s name, which winter: 8:30am–5pm daily. &
means “a hut of two-and-a-half Built in the 19th century,
days”, indicates the time taken to the “Red Temple” in the
build it. However, it is more likely heart of Ajmer is a
that it refers to the duration of a
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Ajmer district. 135 kilometres
(112 miles SW of Jaipur).
Road map B4. * 543,000.
n RTDC Hotel Khadim,
(0145) 262 7426. _ Urs (July).
Transport
@ Near Hotel Khadim.
£ Station Rd.
~ Sanganer.
The Aravalli Range, picturesquely framing the Anasagar Lake
fine example of a Jain religious Prithviraj Chauhan. Charmed by princes, the school’s main
building. Just behind the main its scenic beauty, Jahangir laid building, designed by Charles
temple (closed to non-Jains) out a garden, Daulat Bagh, Mant, is a jewel of Indo-Saracenic
is the double-storeyed Svarna and Shah Jahan built the architecture (see p31). Its early
Nagari Hall. It is elaborately marble pleasure pavilions. students were allowed to live
decorated with coloured glass Overlooking this popular in their individual “houses”
mosaics, and large gilded picnic spot is a grand with English private tutors
wooden figures re-create colonial building, now and family retainers.
scenes from Jain mythology, the Circuit House, where Some, such as the prince
such as the birth and life of the British Resident of Alwar, would ride to
Rishabhdeva, the first Jain once lived. school after vacations
tirthankar (saint). on an elephant. After
P Mayo College 1947, commoners
P Anasagar Lake Shrinagar Rd. Tel (0145) 266 were allowed entry,
Circular Rd. Open 7am–10pm. 1286. Can visit with Lord Mayo and today, along with
This tranquil lake to the north Principal’s permission. its girls’ section, Mayo is
of the city is named after Anaji Set up in 1875 by Lord Mayo as rated as one of India’s best
(r.1135–50), the grandfather of an “Eton of the East” for Rajput public schools.
3 Goverment Museum
G
AR L
Ajmer
I NK R O
AD T OD 4 Nasiyan Temple
RO A RMA
LR
L
GA
O 5 Anasagar Lake
AD
HA
AD
Anasagar Lake
6 Mayo College
LO
JAIPUR
PUSHKAR SA
DAULAT BAG
Daulat V ITR
I A D
Bagh I RO
G
L 'S
UR
R
CO IP
LLE JA
Merwara State
G
Azad Park
E
PU
Bus Stand
H RO
Estate D
RD
OA
RR
SH
PU
IR
AD
AR
K
CU
I
RO
JA
AD
LA
Pushkar
AD
Nasiyan AJM
Bus Stand ER
PR
R
RO
Temple BY
PA
RO
ITH
SS
RY
Goverment HW
VI
HE
Delhi Gate
AD
Y
RA
Museum
TC
J
Ajmer
BAZAR ROAD
KU
MA
DARGAH
Daulat
RG
Khana
STAT I O N R
AD
NALA BAZAR RO
Adhai Din Ajmer Junction
CI
ka Jhonpra
K A W A N D AS P U R A
RC
Dargah Khwaja
ULAR R O A
Chishti Dargah
SHRINAG
D
AR RO
AD
Taragarh Fort
Mayo
0 metres 800 College
0 yards 800
Dargah Sharif
A revered Muslim pilgrim centre since the 12th century,
the Dargah Sharif contains the tomb of the famous Sufi
saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti (1143–1236), popularly
called Garib Nawaz, or “protector of the poor”. Reputed to
possess miraculous powers, the saint draws people of every
faith to his dargah to seek favours and blessings. It is said
that the saint entered his cell to pray in seclusion until his
death on the sixth day. Each year, six days in the seventh
lunar month (October) are marked as his Urs (death
anniversary celebrations). Over the years, the saint’s . Mehfil Khana
Built in 1888 by the fabulously
royal devotees built grand extensions to the tomb, wealthy Nizam of Hyderabad, this is
so that today the dargah complex, teeming with the venue for all-night qawwalis.
pilgrims and tourists, is virtually a township in itself.
. Shahjahani Masjid
Emperor Shah Jahan built this marble
mosque. The Mughals made many such
generous endowments.
Qawwali Singers
Qawwalis (see p34), always sung by a
group, are specially composed to sing
the saint’s praises in front of his tomb.
. Mazar Sharif
Chishti’s tomb, begun during the
saint’s lifetime by Iltutmish, was
KEY
completed in the 16th century by
Emperor Humayun. Later Mughal 1 Ibadat Khana (prayer hall)
princes added to it. A marble dome
surmounts the simple brick tomb, 2 Nizam Gate
enclosed by a silver railing and 3 Shahjahani Gate
a marble lattice screen.
AJMER 225
Akbar’s Mosque
Akbar, Chishti’s most illustrious
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
devotee, walked from Agra to
Practical Information
Ajmer twice: once for enabling
Ajmer district. 141 km (87 miles)
his conquest of Chittor, and again
SW of Jaipur. Road map B4.
after the birth of his heir, Prince
n RTDC TO Hotel Khadim
Salim, the future Jahangir.
(0145) 262 7426. Open daily.
_ Urs (July). =
Pilgrims
People of every faith come
to seek favours and bring
flowers and chadors as
thanksgiving offerings.
Dargah Bazaar
Buland Darwaza
This imposing entrance
doorway was
erected by one of
the Khilji rulers. A
flag is hoisted over
its ramparts to mark the
start of the Urs ceremony
held each October.
Dargah Bazaar
The long road that lies
outside the Nizam Gate,
the main entrance to the
Degs complex, is the location
Two enormous degs (iron cauldrons), one of a bustling market.
nearly 10 ft (3 m) in diameter, are used Colourful stalls and
during the Urs for cooking a special rice kiosks sell baskets of
pudding, tabarrukh. After they have been rose petals as well as
emptied, professional divers “loot” the degs chadors for devotees
by jumping in and scooping out the dregs. to offer at the dargah.
226 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Fort (now in the park), a strategic s Ranthambhore huddled beneath the ramparts
point on the main route to National Park of a picturesque hill fort which
Central India, was the scene of is clearly visible from the flat
many terrible battles between See pp228–9. rooftops of houses where, in
its Rajput chieftains and the summer, people sleep at night.
invading armies from Delhi Though dilapidated, some fort
and Agra. The fort was attacked d Indergarh areas still bear traces of
by Alauddin Khilji (see pp54–5) Kota district. 52 km (33 miles) S of
exquisite murals depicting
and later by Akbar in 1569. This Sawai Madhopur. Road map C4. colourful court scenes and
later battle has been glorified Indergarh Fort: Open 8am–5pm daily, legends. Indergarh’s two main
in Mughal miniatures and bards on request to the caretaker who lives temples, one dedicated to
have sung about the heroic below the fort. Donation optional. Bijasan Mata (a form of Durga)
deeds of its Rajput defenders. and the other to Kuanwalji
The fort was eventually This small town, founded (Lord Shiva), are popular places
handed over to the Amber by Raja Indrasal in 1605, lies of worship for pilgrims.
kings (see pp204–5). This jungle
fort, despite its ruined state, looks
daunting. Its massive gateways, Tale of the Tiger
ramparts and bastions make The tiger plays a major role
entry a tricky affair. Within in Indian myth, as a symbol
it is an 8th-century temple of supreme power, kingship
dedicated to Ganesha, whose and manhood. In Puranic legend
priest receives sacks of letters, it is Durga, the fearsome goddess
sometimes addressed simply to with ten arms, who rides a tiger and
“Shri Ganesha, Ranthambhore”, defeats the invincible buffalo-headed
especially during the marriage demon, Mahishasura. Yet, for all its
season, in order to invoke the aura of strength and power, the tiger
deity’s blessings. Clumps of grass, is a vulnerable creature today.
tied together by newly- Statistics claim that at the turn Durga riding a tiger, detail of a
weds for luck, are also seen of the 20th century, India’s tiger miniature painting
population was about 40,000, but
along the way to the fort temple.
by 1972, the figure had dropped to
roughly 1,800. This was when a special Task Force of the Indian
Environs Board for Wildlife constituted Project Tiger to address the alarming
About 37 km (24 miles) issue of dwindling tiger populations across the country. In the first
west of Sawai Madhopur year of Project Tiger, nine wildlife sanctuaries were declared tiger
is the sprawling Uniara Palace. reserves, one of them being Ranthambhore.
Further towards Tonk, past There are now 27 Project Tiger Reserves, and the number of
Hathi Bhata, a life-sized tigers has grown substantially, though persistent habitat destruction,
elephant carved out of a single illegal poaching and trading of tiger parts for medicinal and other
rock, is the picturesque Kakod derivatives in many Far Eastern countries continue to threaten
Fort. East of Sawai Madhopur, the life of this supreme predator.
is the vast Mansarovar Lake.
228 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Ranthambhore Fort
The park derives its name from this great Rajput
jungle fort that is 1,000 years old and stands at Dausa
a height of 215 m (705 ft).
a
rd
ka
La
Malik
Talao
Padam Rajbagh
Talao Talao
Sawai
al
rV
Madhopur
pu
Tonk
ha
La
y
Sambar Stag le
al
Large herds of sambar t iV
ha
are seen around the lakes, lg
Na
wallowing in the water,
swimming and feeding on
aquatic plants, unperturbed
by jeeps and visitors. Mumbai
Man Sarovar
Banyan Tree
India’s second-largest
banyan tree (Ficus
bengalensis) lies in
the grounds of Jogi
Mahal. Its several 0 kilometres 5
spreading branches are
all supported by roots. 0 miles 2
JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 229
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Sawai Madhopur district.
130 km (81 miles) SE of Jaipur.
Road map C4. Tel 92127 77223/
Delhi 77225. n RTDC Hotel Vinayak,
Sawai Madhopur, (07462) 22
1333. Open Oct–Jun. Timings
vary, check website. Closed Jul–
Sep. & 8 = The Dastkari Kendra,
Tiger opposite Kutalpura village on way
Sighting the park’s main to Kundera. No walking. Only jeeps
predator is a matter of hired at Hotel Vinayak (which gives
chance, but traces of its permits) are allowed inside the park.
activities are often seen. ∑ ranthamborenationalpark.com
Transport
@ Sawai Madhopur.
Ban
as
Lakarda
J Galai Sagar
Khandhar
J Fort
Lahapur
Marsh Crocodiles
Muggers, or marsh crocodiles, are commonly seen
submerged in water or basking on the shores of the
lakes. Ungulates are their main prey, and sometimes one
can glimpse a crocodile dragging the carcass of a deer
into the water. The monitor lizard and python are
some of the other reptiles found in the park.
Khatola
Sloth Bear
Key
This shaggy bear with
short hind legs and a
Major road long muzzle emerges
Park border at dusk to feed. During
the day it shelters in
Trails the rocky outcrops
and is difficult to sight.
For keys to symbols see back flap
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Popularly known as the Golden triangle, leading Indian chains, to guesthouses and
the Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region receives the youth hostels. In addition, there are state-run
largest number of tourists in India. Naturally, tourist hotels, with comfortable board and
this area has a wide range of places to stay, lodging at reasonable rates. On the more exotic
though prices, particularly in Delhi and Agra, side are the grand old palaces and lovingly
can be higher than the rest of the country. restored havelis of the region which re-create
Jaipur and the rest of Rajasthan offers a huge the lavish lifestyles of former rulers and aristo-
variety of accommodation with a lot of cracy. For the budget traveller, there is a choice
competitively priced heritage and boutique of ashrams and small guest-houses, sometimes
options. The choice of accommodation with extremely basic facilities. For more
available throughout the region ranges from information on places to stay in this region,
upmarket luxury hotels run by international or refer to the detailed listings on pages 238–41.
Touts
At the airport or railway station
you may be besieged by touts
(see p259), many of whom
also operate as taxi and three-
wheeler drivers, who insist
on taking you to hotels where
Picturesque surroundings of the Glasshouse on the Ganges in Rishikesh (see p239) they get a commission. The best
W H E R E TO S TAY 235
Facilities for Children Aesthetic living room of the grand presidential suite at Taj Palace, Delhi (see p238)
The staff at hotels are usually very
good with children. Many hotels levels within them, with no backpackers to business
will willingly add an extra bed for ramp or lifts for easy movement. travellers, and across as wide a
a child in your room at a small Do check out these facilities price range as possible for their
extra charge. Very few provide before making your bookings. excellent facilities, good location
baby-sitting services; you and usually great value. They
should check at the front desk, have been listed according to
but usually parents are expected Tipping region for your convenience
to look after their children. Most Tips are expected even though and will provide excellent
hotels do not have any special there may be a service charge accommodation and facilities
facilities for children. on bills. The amounts are at the based on your budget.
discretion of the guest, starting The hotels have broadly been
with ₹10 for car parking divided into seven categories:
Travellers with Disabilities attendants, slightly more for a Luxury, Heritage, Great Value,
Only the newer and fancier porter, and 10 per cent of the Boutique, Rural Retreat,
hotels make an effort to total bill for waiters. Some hotels Tourist Lodge and Guesthouse.
provide ramps, special lifts have a tip box in the lobby. Throughout our listings, we have
and wheelchairs for disabled marked recommended hotels as
travellers. However, you can DK Choice. These establishments
always seek the help of the staff. Recommended Hotels have been highlighted in
Many of the older hotels, The many hotels featured in recognition of an exceptional
especially in Rajasthan, which this guide have been selected feature – a stunning location,
are converted from palaces and keeping in mind a broad notable history, great ambience
private mansions, have several spectrum of travellers, from or outstanding value.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Chains Taj Group Tel (01483) 77 3331. Sri Aurobindo
Taj Mahal, Mansingh Rd, ∑ munjeetatravel.com Ashram
Ashok Group Delhi. Map 5 B3. Aurobindo Marg, Delhi.
Scope Complex, Core-8, 7 Tel (011) 2302 6162. RTDC
Tel (011) 2656 7863.
Lodhi Rd, Delhi. ∑ tajhotels.com Govt Hostel, MI Rd, ∑ sriaurobin-
Tel (011) 2436 0303. Oberoi Group Jaipur. Tel (0141) 237 1641.
∑ theashokgroup.com doashram.net
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Swagatam Tourist
Marg, Delhi.Map 6 D4. Campus.
ITC Hotels Tel (011) 2389 0606. National
ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel ∑ oberoihotels.com Tel (0141) 511 0598. Parks and
Marg, New Delhi. Camping Sites
Tel (011) 2611 2233. Heritage Hotels Dharamshalas
∑ itchotels.in Aquaterra
Heritage Hotels and Ashrams Adventures
Sheraton Association of India S–507, Greater Kailash II,
Mandawa Haveli, Sansar International
District Centre, Saket, Delhi. Tel (011) 2921
New Delhi. Chandra Rd, Jaipur. Rest House
Tel (0141) 237 1194. Shri Krishna-Balaram 2641. ∑ aquaterra.in
Tel (011) 4266 1122.
∑ starwoodhotels. ∑ indianheritage Temple, Brindavan. GMVN Tourist Office
com/sheraton hotels.com
Tel (0565) 254 0021. Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh.
Radisson Paying Guest Ramakrishna Mission Tel (0135) 243 0799.
Accommodation Ramakrishna Ashram ∑ gmvni.com
National Highway 8,
Mahipalpur Rd, Delhi. Munjeeta Travel Marg, Delhi. Tourist Village
Tel (011) 2677 9191. 12 Cavendish Rd, Woking, Tel (011) 2358 7110. Pushkar.
∑ radissonblu.com Surrey GU22 OEP, UK. ∑ rkmdelhi.org Tel (0145) 277 3074.
236 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Heritage Hotels
The title “heritage hotel” is given to some palaces and
havelis that have been discreetly modernized to meet
the needs of international travellers and run as high-
class hotels. Fitted with modern plumbing and air-
conditioning and with facilities such as swimming
pools and tennis courts, such hotels take care that
their history, architecture and innate elegance are Neemrana Fort Palace, Neemrana
suitably highlighted. The interiors display old sepia Built in 1464, this fort was one of
photographs, memorabilia and exquisite furniture India’s first heritage hotels. Meticulously
tended by a caring staff, often old family retainers. restored to recreate the original plan
and architecture, its interior is an eclectic
The high tariffs of such hotels are compensated for by blend of traditional design and its
their special ambience. modern interpretations (see p241).
Mandawa
Neemrana
Sikar
Alwar
Dehra Dun
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50
Panipat
NORTH OF
DELHI
DELHI
Agra
Bharatpur
Gwalior
Jhansi
Where to Stay
Claridges Price Guide
Delhi Luxury Map 5 A3 Prices are based on one night's stay in
12 Aurangzeb Rd high season for a standard double room,
New Delhi Tel (011) 3955 5000 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Prince Polonia ∑ claridges.com up to 4000
Great Value Map 1 B3 Stylish rooms at this slightly old- 4000 to 10000
over 10000
2325–26 Tilak Gali, off Main world hotel. Outdoor pool and
Bazaar Paharganj an array of dining options.
Tel (011) 4762 6600 The Park
∑ hotelprincepolonia.com ITC Maurya Boutique Map 1 C5
Situated in a busy backpacker area Luxury Map 3 B4 15 Parliament Street
conveniently close to Connaught Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Tel (011) 2374 3000
Place. Modern facilities, free Wi- Marg ∑ theparkhotels.com
Fi, and a rooftop swimming pool. Tel (011) 2611 2233 Close to the historic Jantar Mantar,
∑ itchotels.in the hotel has an array of stylish
YWCA Blue Triangle Premier hotel that has an exquisite rooms and good restaurants.
Great Value Map 1 B5 art collection and smart rooms. Rejuvenate at the spa or the pool.
Ashoka Rd, Connaught Place Favoured choice for state guests
Tel (011) 2336 0133 and foreign dignitaries. Enjoy fine Vivanta by Taj
∑ ywcaofdelhi.org dining at the popular Dum Pukht. Luxury Map 5 B3
Clean, basic rooms and a friendly, Sujan Singh Park, Subramania
safe atmosphere. Recommended Maiden's Bharti Marg
by young, female travellers. Heritage Tel (011)6626 1000
7 Sham Nath Marg, Old Delhi ∑ vivantabytaj.com
YWCA International Tel (011) 2397 5464 At a stone’s throw away from Lodi
Great Value Map 1 B5 ∑ maidenshotels.com Gardens and Khan Market, this
10 Parliament Street Established in 1903, this is one of hotel has smart decor, great
Tel (011) 2334 5235 Delhi’s oldest hotels with classic style restaurants and a lovely pool.
∑ ywcaindia.org and great views of the Delhi Ridge.
Comfortable, basic rooms at this
centrally located hostel. Good for Taj Palace Nizamuddin
solo women travellers. Luxury Map 3 A4 B Nineteen
Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Boutique Map 6 E5
Jyoti Mahal Marg B–19 Nizamuddin East
Boutique Map 1 B3 Tel (011)2 611 0202 Tel (011) 4182 5500
2488–90 Nalwa Street, Chuna ∑ tajhotels.com ∑ bnineteen.com
Mandi, off Main Bazaar, Paharganj A beautiful location and elegant Set against Humayun Tomb, this
Tel (011) 2358 0523 rooms complemented with modern lovely B&B has comfortable rooms
∑ jyotimahal.net facilities. A lovely place for high tea. and facilitates access to kitchen.
Excellent heritage-style property
in a central location. Stylish decor The Lodhi
and a lovely rooftop restaurant. DK Choice Luxury
The Imperial Lodhi Road Map 5 C4
Master Bed & Breakfast Luxury Map 1 C5 Tel (0124) 465 3333
Boutique 1 Janpath (close to ∑ thelodhi.com
R–500 New Rajender Nagar Connaught Place) Formerly the Aman, this opulent
Tel (011) 2874 1089 Tel (011)2334 1234 property has rooms with private
∑ master-guesthouse.com ∑ theimperialindia.com plunge pools and balconies.
A delightful option with just three Experience a graceful confluence
stylish rooms and lovely com- of the colonial heritage and the
munal areas. Delicious breakfast. magnificence of modern Delhi
at this hotel. Designed as a part
Palace Heights of Lutyen’s vision of Delhi, this
Great Value Map 1 C5 elegant hotel has hosted Gandhi
D26–28 Connaught Place and Nehru while they discussed
Tel (011)4546 0000 issues related to India’s indepen-
∑ palaceheights.com dence. Today it offers evocative
This plush property, at an enviable charm, nostalgic decor, award-
location in the heart of Connaught winning restaurants, world-class
Place, offers stylish rooms and a spa and every modern amenity.
good restaurant, Zaffran.
Old Delhi
Hotel Broadway
Heritage Map 2 E3
4/15A Asaf Ali Rd (Near Delhi Gate)
Tel (011) 4366 3600
∑ hotelbroadwaydelhi.com
Stylish, with old-world charm and
themed restaurants. Organizes
heritage walks of Old Delhi.
South Delhi
Tree of Life B&B
Guesthouse
D–193, Saket A spacious and exquisite room at The Imperial, Delhi
Tel 981 027 7699
∑ tree-of-life.in RISHIKESH: Rainforest House
Close to the Saket metro station North of Delhi Rural Retreat
and the Qutb Minar, this B&B offers HARIDWAR: Teerth Badrinath Rd, Brahmpuri
comfort and modern amenities. Great Value Tel 800 677 9298
Subhash Ghat, Har-ki-Pauri ∑ rainforest-house.com
Amarya Villa Tel (0133) 422 5211 Beautiful, quiet oasis with stylish
Boutique ∑ hotelteerth.com rooms and a lovely café serving
A–2/20, Safdarjung Enclave Basic accommodation close to the classic Italian and local cuisine.
Tel (011) 4103 6184 Ganges, with rooms offering views
∑ amaryagroup.com of the main ghat, Har-ki-Pauri. RISHIKESH: Ananda
Stylish three-storey villa offers nine Luxury
spacious rooms, each themed on HARIDWAR: Haveli Hari Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal
one of nine auspicious gemstones Ganga Tel (0124) 451 6650
or navratna. Pretty terrace garden. Luxury ∑ anandaspa.com
Pilibhit House, 21 Ramghat Try this award-winning spa-resort
The Manor Tel (0133) 426 5207 with great views, for ayurvedic
Luxury ∑ havelihariganga.com and holistic treatments.
77 Friends Colony West Right on the river, a lovely hotel
Tel (011) 4323 5151 with option for yoga on the ghats. RISHIKESH: Glasshouse on the
∑ themanordelhi.com Ganges
Charming hotel with lovely grounds. RISHIKESH: Bhandari Swiss Heritage
Acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, Cottage 23rd Milestone Badrinath Rd,
Indian Accent. Modern amenities. Great Value Gular-Dogi
High Bank, Tapovan Bypass Rd Tel 941 207 6420
The Rose Tel (0135) 243 2939 ∑ neemranahotels.com
Boutique ∑ bhandariswisscottage.com Exclusive resort with classic rooms
T–40 Hauz Khas Village Picturesque views across the river and a private beach. Garden with
Tel (011) 6450 0001 and valley. Basic rooms with a tropical plants and rare birds.
∑ therosenewdelhi.com verandah and a good restaurant.
Homely yet modern hotel with
contemporary decor, lovely café RISHIKESH: Divine Ganga
and an art gallery. Lively ambience. Cottages Agra and Around
Rural Retreat AGRA: Amar Yatri Niwas
Tapovan, Laxman Jhula Tourist Lodge
Tel (0135) 244 2175 181/1, Tourist Complex Area,
Further Afield ∑ divinegangacottage.com Fatehabad Rd,
The Leela Ambience Renovated rooms with great views Tel (0562) 223 3030
Gurgaon and a charming garden restaurant. ∑ amaryatriniwas.com
Luxury This hotel offers spacious rooms
Ambience Island, Gurgaon and an on-site café and restaurant.
Tel (0124) 477 1234 DK Choice
∑ theleela.com RISHIKESH: Camp Silver AGRA: Mayur Tourist Complex
Elegant property featuring fully Sands Tourist Lodge
serviced rooms and residences, Rural Retreat Fatehabad Rd
award-winning restaurants, pool Beach no. 12, Badrinath Rd Tel (0562) 403 2310
and spa. Next to Ambience Mall. Tel (011) 2921 2760 ∑ mayurcomplex.com
∑ aquaterra.in Little cottages with lawns and a
Tikli Bottom A perfect place to relax, swimming pool. Basic amenities.
Rural Retreat rejuvenate and be one with
Tikli Bottom, Gairatpur Bas, Gurgaon nature. Tented camps on the AGRA: Hotel Taj Plaza
Tel 931 337 0853 river bank with campfire and Great Value
∑ tiklibottom.com delicious food. Enjoy white-water Taj East Gate Rd
Lutyens-style four-bedroom rafting and adventure sports Tel (0562) 694 1550
haveli, surrounded by farmland. with one of the most acclaimed ∑ tajplaza.in
Food is sourced from the adventure companies in India. Comfortable rooms with great
organic farm; pool facilities. rooftop views of the Taj Mahal.
For more information on types of hotels see page 235
240 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
JAIPUR: Hotel Pearl Palace JAIPUR: Samode Haveli NEEMRANA: Neemrana
Great Value Luxury Fort Palace
51 Hathroi Fort, Hari Kishan Gangapole Luxury
Somani Marg Tel (0141) 263 2407 Neemrana Village, 122nd Milestone,
Tel (0141) 237 3700 ∑ samode.com Delhi–Jaipur Highway
∑ hotelpearlpalace.com Aesthetic rooms and heritage Tel (01494) 24 6007
A range of rooms with intricate suites with lavish decor. Charming ∑ neemranahotels.com
artwork, and modern amenities. garden views. State-of-the-art spa. Relax at the luxurious rooms with
Friendly service; rooftop restaurant. unique themes or be adventurous
JAIPUR: The Farm with camel rides and zip-lining.
JAIPUR: Diggi Palace Boutique
Heritage Pritvisinghpura, Dhankiya Rd, Bad ke PUSHKAR: Inn Seventh Heaven
Diggi House, Shivaji Marg, C-Scheme balaji, Ajmer highway Boutique
Tel (0141) 237 3091 Tel 982 802 3030 Next to Mali ka Mandir, Chotti Basti
∑ hoteldiggipalace.com ∑ thefarmjaipur.com Tel (0145) 510 5455
Spacious rooms with a blend of Charming rooms with eclectic art ∑ inn-seventh-heaven.com
old-world charm and modern decor and quirky design features Restored ancient haveli with
luxury. Hosts the famous Jaipur such as tables made from Enfield beautiful themed rooms and
Literary Festival. Cookery courses. motorbikes. Large grounds. fantastic rooftop restaurant.
JAIPUR: Mosaic Guest House KISHANGARH: Phool Mahal SAMODE: Samode Palace
Rural Retreat Palace Heritage
Siyaram Ki Doongri, Amber Heritage Samode Village, Tehsil Chomu
Tel (0141) 253 0031 Phool Mahal Palace Tel (01423) 240 014
∑ mosaicsguesthouse.com Tel (01463) 24 7405 ∑ samode.com
Beautiful guesthouse adorned ∑ royalkishangarh.com Upscale property that blends
with mosaic artwork by the French With the majestic Kishangarh Fort traditional decor and modern
owner. Rooftop lounge with grand as the backdrop, comfortable luxury. Beautiful rooms and suites.
views of the Amber Fort. rooms; striking frescoes.
SARISKA: Sariska Tiger Camp
JAIPUR: Pratap Bhavan B&B Rural Retreat
Guesthouse DK Choice Village Dhawala, Jaipur Rd
A–4 Pratap Bhawan, Jamnalal Bajaj MANDAWA: Mandawa Tel (0144) 288 5311
Marg, C-scheme Haveli ∑ sariskatigercamp.com
Tel 982 907 4354 Heritage A good option for the family, this
∑ pratapbhawan.com Near Sonthaliya Gate, Mandawa hotel offers comfortable rooms,
Lovely homestay with traditional Tel (0141) 237 4112 grounds and swimming pool.
decor and modern facilities. Wild- ∑ mandawahotels.com
life photography tours and walks Beautifully restored haveli with SAWAI MADHOPUR:
can be organised by the owners. incredible frescoes, combining Ranthambhore Bagh
old-world charm and modern Rural Retreat
JAIPUR: Umaid Bhawan facilities. Rooms are lavishly Ranthambhore Rd
Boutique designed. Central courtyard and Tel 823 9166 777
D1–2A, behind Collectorate, a good option for rooftop dining. ∑ ranthambhorebagh.com
(Via) Bank Rd, Bani Park Enjoy splendid views of the Run by a wildlife photographer;
Tel (0141) 231 6184 Nahargarh Fort from the terrace. offers both rooms and luxury
∑ umaidbhawan.com tents. Fantastic campfire dinners.
Elegant hotel with exquisitely
painted interiors and traditional NAWALGARH: Apani Dhani SAWAI MADHOPUR: Sher
handicrafts. Rooftop restaurant Rural Retreat Bagh
and courtyard swimming pool. Old Jhunjhunu Rd, Nawalgarh, Luxury
Shekhawati Sherpur–Khiljipur Village
JAIPUR: Rajvilas Tel (01594) 22 2239 Tel 746 225 2120
Luxury ∑ apanidhani.com ∑ sujanluxury.com
Oberoi Rajvilas Relax at this ecolodge with Unwind in wilderness at this
Tel (0141) 268 0101 comfortable rooms. Winner of tented safari camp. Pool,
∑ oberoihotels.com 2013 Responsible Tourism Award. campfire and jungle spa.
Sprawling, large, royal resort
in a beautiful fort setting.
Magnificent suites, luxury tents
and landscaped gardens.
Coffee Shops
All big hotels have 24-hour
coffee shops where guests can
get snacks and light meals.
Western coffee shop chains
such as Costa Coffee and
Coffee bars and fast food outlets in Connaught Place, New Delhi Starbucks can be found around
Delhi. At busy market places,
Restaurants or early meals are best had at there are also coffee shop-like
There is an array of eateries in the 24-hour coffee shops found cafés that are open from 10am
Delhi, ranging from snack bars inside the hotels. to midnight, offering a variety of
in markets to speciality refreshments and simple multi-
restaurants in luxury hotels. cuisine dishes that may range
Every commercial area has Speciality Restaurants from Indian to Indianized
mobile vans which offer low- Upmarket restaurants that Western and Chinese. It is safer
priced sandwiches, burgers and specialize in international to order the more common
Indian-style Chinese chowmein cuisines such as Japanese, dishes, and to avoid the fish and
and soups. South Indian eating Italian and Spanish are prawns specials.
places are widespread and immensely popular, particularly
good value for money with a in Delhi. Most of these
wide choice of dishes. Other restaurants are in luxury hotels,
places specialize in North Indian though a few independent
tandoori meats and fish. Many ones are located in places such
of the American fast food giants, as the Hauz Khas Village and
such as Pizza Hut, McDonald’s Greater Kailash in Delhi. Diva,
and Dominos are firm favourites run by gastronome Ritu Dalmia,
in the capital. Agra and Jaipur is one such restaurant. It serves
also have a wide range of excellent Italian fare. The prices
restaurants where good quality may be a bit steep, but the
international cuisine is served. food and stylish ambience are
The five-star hotels here house worth it. Visitors can also find
some exceptional fine-dining authentic Tibetan and
restaurants. Most places are Mediterranean food in select
open from 11am to midnight. It places. Most restaurants in
is a good idea to book in Jaipur serve traditional
advance for the popular Rajasthani dishes such as the A light prosciutto starter at Diva in Greater
gourmet restaurants. Late hour kej sangari (desert beans) or Kailash, New Delhi
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 243
Vegetarian Food
Most roadside food stalls in
India are strictly vegetarian.
Delhi, Agra and Jaipur have
excellent vegetarian restaurants,
which include the ubiquitous
South Indian eateries that offer
vegetarian thalis. Some of them
display signs that read: “Cooked
in pure ghee” or “Cooked in ghee
made from cow’s milk” which is A roadside stall selling popular street food in Agra
244 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Korma is fragrant with Dal combines lentils with Gulab Jamun may be served
cardamom and cloves. This a heady mix of onions, garlic hot or cold. These syrupy little
rich, creamy curry is eaten with and spices. It is considered dough balls are often topped
either Indian bread or rice. India’s “soul food”. with ice cream.
246 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Mughlai Kebab is
minced lamb spiced
in the Mughlai style
Sweets
Sweets are mainly milk-based.
Gajar ka Halwa
Grated carrots cooked
in milk and sugar and
browned with pistachios
and almonds.
Gulab Jamun
Deep-fried milk and flour
dumplings in a thick syrup.
Kulfi
Hand-churned ice-cream
flavoured with pistachios.
Phirni A Mughlai riceflour
A streetside restaurant specializing in parathas pudding, flavoured
with saffron (kesar).
Kair Sangri a special curry Rabri
Small local berries cooked with powder. Thickened milk and
spinach-like leaves. sugar garnished
Khumb-matar Curry Breads with nuts.
A mushroom and pea curry. Common breads Rasmalai
Malai Kofta cooked on a A flatter version
Cottage cheese dumplings in a griddle are the of the rasgulla (paneer
thick tomato gravy. chapati, paper-thin Gajar ka Halwa balls in a thin syrup)
Masala Baingan roomali roti and paratha. in a mildly flavoured
Stuffed aubergines (eggplants) Pooris are deep fried, while creamy sauce.
braised in oil. tandoori breads include the
Paneer tandoori and khastha roti and naan.
Paneer (cottage cheese), an Drinks
all time favourite, is cooked Elaichi Chai
in a variety of combinations. Rice Cardamom-flavoured tea.
Palak paneer is with spinach, Biryanis and pulaos are eaten Lassi
and matar paneer with peas. with raitas (whipped yoghurt Whipped yoghurt shake.
Paneer Makhani mixed with onions, tomatoes, Nimbu Pani
Cottage cheese in a tomato coriander and green chillies), Fresh, sweetened or salted lime
and butter sauce. and a wide range of pickles juice with water or soda.
Sarson ka Saag and chutneys. Panna
Mustard leaves cooked in milk Biryani Peeled raw mango boiled,
and served in a puréed form Mutton or chicken korma puréed, and mixed in water
with butter. is layered with rice, cooked with salt, sugar and cumin.
on a slow charcoal fire, and Sherbet
flavoured with saffron. A flavoured sweet drink.
Lentils Navratan Pulao
Dal, a lentil curry, is Rice cooked with nine types
the staple meal. of vegetables. Paan
Masur and Yakhni Pulao Betel leaf packed with areca
moong are Rice and mutton cooked in nut, lime (catechu) paste, and
two varieties. stock flavoured with aniseed other ingredients such as
Chhola and whole spices. cardamoms and cloves.
Bhatura
Chickpeas
thickly coated
Chhola Bhatura with a spicy
sauce eaten with
a puffed, deep-fried bread
(poori).
Dal Makhani
Unhulled dal cooked
in cream and butter.
Rajma Curry
A red kidney-bean curry.
Sambhar
A South Indian speciality
made with arhar dal and Paan, a good digestive, can be made to suit individual tastes
250 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Khan Chacha
North Indian Map 5 B3
50, First floor, Khan Market
Tel (011) 2463 3242
Savour scrumptious tandoori
food – kebabs, tikkas and roomali
rolls. Try the chicken tikka roll
and the mutton seekh. Expect
long queues.
Pind Balluchi
North Indian Map 1 C5
13 Regal Building, Connaught Place
Tel (011) 4372 0507
Colourful, rustic interiors and a
wide selection of hearty Punjabi
dishes. The kebabs are succulent
and fresh. The elegant interiors of Varq
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 251
Wasabi
Japanese Map 5 B3
Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Man Singh Rd
Tel (011) 6651 3585
Watch the chefs perform the
elaborate knifework of the
Teppanyaki style of cooking. All
ingredients are fresh and are
flown in from Tokyo daily. The
food is excellent and there is a
wonderful sake bar that offers
an impressive collection of
Japanese sakes.
Nizamuddin
Three Sixty Degree Kitschy decor of the Japanese restaurant, Wasabi
Multi-cuisine Map 6 D4
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg Oh! Calcutta TLR – The Living Room
Tel (011) 2436 3030 Bengali Map 2 D5 Multi-cuisine
In addition to their renowned Ground Floor, International Trade 31, Hauz Khas Village
Sunday brunch, Three Sixty Towers, E Block, Nehru Place Tel (011) 4608 0544
Degree is popular for its delicious Tel (011) 3040 2415 Spread over three floors, this is
Japanese food and wood-fired Acclaimed Bengali restaurant an excellent place for a relaxed
pizzas. The service is excellent. that serves authentic kosha lunch. In the evenings, the
mangsho (a traditional spicy restaurant comes alive as a bar
mutton dish) – a must-try. Their with live music and other events.
Old Delhi fish fry is also quite popular.
Karim's Yeti
North Indian Map 6 D5 Tibetan/Nepalese
16, Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid DK Choice 2nd Floor, 50A Hauz Khas Village
Tel (011) 2326 4981 Park Balluchi Tel (011) 4067 8649
An institution in Old Delhi, North Indian Map 1 B3 This simple, comfortable
Karim’s has been serving tasty Inside Deer Park, near Hauz restaurant serves well-prepared
Mughlai kebabs and juicy Khas Village specialties from the high
tandoori raan (leg of lamb) for Tel (011) 2685 9369 Himalayas – momos, thukpa and
over 100 years. The Chicken Located amid the lush greenery sukuti sadeko (buffalo jerky).
Jahangiri is also recommended. of the Deer Park, Park Balluchi
serves classic North Indian food Bukhara
Chor Bizarre such as tikkas and kebabs. Their North Indian Map 3 B4
North Indian Map 2 E3 signature dishes include the ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave,
Hotel Broadway, 4/15A Asaf Ali Rd popular dal Balluchi and Sardar Patel Marg
Tel (011) 4366 3600 tandoori gulnar (marinated Tel (011) 4621 5125
Eclectically designed restaurant cauliflower florets slowly Rated amongst the best tandoori
that serves authentic, flavoursome cooked in the tandoor). The restaurants, with a lively open
Kashmiri food. Try the delicious staff is friendly and efficient. kitchen that serves rich, bold
gushtaba (spiced meat balls flavours. The dal Bukhara is
cooked in yoghurt). very popular.
Sagar Ratna
South Indian Diva
South Delhi 18, Defence Colony Market Italian
Naivedyam Tel (011) 2433 3658 M-8A, M Block Market,
South Indian Famed for enormous 1 m- (4 ft-) Greater Kailash II
1, Hauz Khas Village long family dosas, Sagar Ratna is Tel (011) 3310 6265
Tel (011) 2696 0426 an excellent place to get the true Award-winning restaurant that
Offers delicious, reasonably- taste of South India. The serves scrumptious Italian fare
priced South Indian dishes. The restaurant serves great along with an excellent
thali and the rasam vadai are vegetarian thalis and authentic collection of wines. The menu
recommended, as is a close look South Indian filter coffee. changes seasonally.
at the exquisite wall paintings.
Tamura Dum Pukht
Elma's Japanese North Indian Map 3 B4
Multi-cuisine S16 Uphar Commercial Complex, ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave,
31, 2nd floor, Hauz Khas Village Green Park Extension Market Sardar Patel Marg
Tel (011) 2652 1020 Tel (011) 2653 5769 Tel (011) 3310 5108
Furnished with big, comfortable Apart from the regular sushi Pristine marble interiors in a
armchairs, Elma's is perfect for dishes, Tamura serves lesser- magnificent gold and blue decor,
those in need of a laid-back known Japanese fare such as complement the traditional
repast. The extensive menu salmon rice in Japanese tea and slow-cooked courtly cuisine. Try
includes mezze platters and lamb sweet pork in vegetable stew. It the Shahi Nehari (stewed lamb
roulade, but the highlight is their also has a well-stocked bar. shanks with spices), Dum Phukt
indulgent array of cakes such as There is another branch in New biryani and the kheer (rice pudding).
red velvet and apple crumble. Friends Colony. Reservation recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 243
252 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Guppy by ai
Japanese Map 5 B5
28, Main Market, Lodi Colony
Tel (011) 3310 7928
Run by the renowned Olive Bar &
Kitchen group, the restaurant
serves outstanding Japanese
food in an Animé-style setting.
Their Mushroom Suimono soup,
California rolls, garlic fried rice
and flambéd blueberry crêpes
are highly recommended.
DK Choice
Indian Accent
Contemporary Indian
The Manor, 77 Friends Colony West
Tel (011) 4323 5151
Try the award-winning chef
Manish Mehrotra’s inventive
dishes such as tandoori bacon
prawns with wasabi cream,
chicken tikka quesadillas and Beautiful diya trees at Indian Accent
butter chicken kulcha. Or opt
for the chef’s tasting menu for a include signature dishes such Swagath
broader experience of modern as the pan-seared sea bass or Multi-cuisine
Indian cuisine – old classics wood-fired pizzas. 14, Defence Colony Market
with an experimental twist. Tel (011) 2433 0930
Tables are only available at Nanking Serves some of the most
7pm and 9:45pm. There is Asian delicious regional dishes from
live music on Saturdays. 6C, Local Shopping Complex, Tamil Nadu and Mangalore in the
Vasant Kunj capital and is best known for its
Tel (011) 2613 8939 seafood. Other cuisines such as
Kainoosh Friendly restaurant, well-known Chinese and Continental also
Contemporary Indian for its dim sums, fried corn feature on the menu.
122–124 DLF Promenade Mall, curd and sticky spare ribs.
Vasant Kunj The kung pao chicken is Thai High
Tel (011) 3310 6161 absolutely delicious. Asian
Feast on enormous thalis that 1091/1, Ambawatta Complex,
include nutmeg-infused lamb Olive at the Qutub Kalkadass Marg, Mehrauli
kofta and cardamom-saffron Mediterranean Tel (011) 2664 4289
chicken. It also has a great bar, One Style Mile, Haveli 6, Mehrauli Offers a wide range of tempting
Keya, right next door. Tel 981 023 5472 Thai dishes. Try the signature Thai
Situated in the shadow of High chicken and yam phak krob
La Piazza the Qutub Minar, the rustic (crispy vegetables in a tangy sauce).
Italian restaurant serves perfectly Diners can sit outside and admire a
Hyatt Regency Delhi, Ring Rd, Bhikaji grilled bass, seafood risotto beautiful view of the Qutub Minar.
Cama Place and blue cheese gnocchi.
Tel (011) 6677 1338 The Great Kabab Factory
Sunday brunch is very popular. Orient Express North Indian
The wide-ranging, tempting Continental Map 3 A4 1st Floor, MGF Metropolitan
choices on the à la carte menu Taj Palace Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave Mall, Saket
Tel (011) 2611 0202 Tel (011) 3310 6148
A 5-star dining experience Serves an extraordinary 160
themed on the legendary train varieties of succulent kebabs,
that transverses Europe. The including quite a few vegetarian
restaurant is ornately styled as options as well. They have
a railway carriage to create just branches in Connaught Place,
the right ambience. The menu Noida and Mahipalpur.
reflects the cuisine of the various
regions the train journeys The Kylin Experience
through. Dinner only. Asian
24 Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar
Smokehouse Bar & Grill Tel 958 200 1010
Multi-cuisine Map 5 B3 Try the generous sushi platter,
17, First Floor, Khan Market Indonesian gado-gado (mixed
Tel (011) 3310 5615 vegetable salad with peanut
Offers a wide array of meat and sauce dressing) and asparagus
seafood dishes. Guests can gorge tempura rolls with the finest
on juicy tenderloin and lamb Japanese sake. The earthy
The ornatly designed dining room patties or crunchy prawn skewers. interiors have a number
at Kainoosh Also has a branch in Hauz Khas. of nice, cosy nooks.
Key to Price Guide see page 250
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 253
Rishikesh: Green
Italian
Swarg Ashram
Tel (0135) 243 1242
Serves a wide variety of
wholesome lasagne and pizzas. A
fairly reliable free Wi-Fi connection
is also available. View of Chotiwala, a popular eatery in Rishikesh
For more information on types of restaurants see page 243
254 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Meerut: Alfa
Multi-cuisine
Bombay Bazaar, near
Hanuman Chowk
Tel (0121) 266 0532
Try the North Indian dishes,
such as the tikkas prepared with
mustard or paneer butter masala. The airy courtyard of Silver Saloon
For more information on types of restaurants see page 243
256 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Antiques
Antiques and art objects that
are more than 100 years old
cannot be taken out of the
country. If in doubt about your
purchases, consult the office
of the Archaeological Survey of
India (see p272). You should also
get a certificate from the shop
stating the age of the artifact. Roadsides flooded with colourful, seasonal fruit
260 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
North of Delhi
Smaller towns near Delhi
have their own craft specialities.
There are several weaving
centres producing pile carpets
which are sent to Delhi and
other cities to be sold. Panipat
is famous for its attractive
cotton floor coverings and
woven home furnishings.
In Saharanpur, you will find
all kinds of woodcarved items
in intricate designs and brass Weaving a carpet on a traditional pit-loom
SHOPS AND MARKETS 261
DIRECTORY
Government Textiles Paintings and Shoes
Emporia Objets D’art
Anokhi Bharat Boot House
Handloom House C 11, 2nd Floor, Juneja Art Gallery 87, Johari Bazaar, near
21, MI Rd, Jaipur. KK Square, Prithviraj 6–7, Ground Floor, LMB Hotel, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 236 5331. Rd, Jaipur. Lakshmi Complex, Tel (0141) 257 7914.
Tel (0141) 400 7244. MI Rd, Jaipur.
Khadi Ghar Mojari
Tel (0141) 403 4964.
MI Rd, Jaipur. Cottons Bhawani Villa, Gulab Path,
Tel (0141) 237 3745. Hari Bhawan, Jacob Rd, Saurashtra Chomu House, Jaipur.
Civil Lines, Jaipur. Oriental Arts Tel (0141) 237 7037.
Oswal Emporium
Tel (0141) 222 3870. 3–4, Opposite Ayurveda
30, Munoro Rd, Sadar
College, Inside Zoravar Marble Inlay
Bazaar, Agra. Naika Singh Gate, Amer Rd.
Tel (0562) 222 5711. Tholia Building, Tel (0141) 263 0242. Akbar International
Rajasthali MI Rd, Jaipur. 289, Fatehabad Rd, Agra.
Tel (0141) 236 2664. Shree Ganpati Arts
MI Rd, opposite Ajmeri Tel (0562) 233 0076.
S-17, Golimar Garden,
Gate, Jaipur. Ratan Textiles Amer Rd, Jaipur. Ganesi Lal
Tel (0141) 510 3329. Shop No. 5, Shalimar Tel (0141) 267 2212. International
Rajasthan State Bagh, Chitrakoot Clarks Shiraz, Agra.
Ajmer Rd, Tagore Ved Pal Sharma
Handloom Dev. Tel (0562) 222 6114.
Nagar, Jaipur. Banno
Corp. Ltd. Shop No. 1401,
Gulab Path, Chomu Tel (0141) 222 2526 UP Handicrafts
Chanakya Marg, Complex
House, Jaipur. Shilpi Handicrafts Subhas Chowk, Jaipur. Handicrafts Nagar,
Tel (0141) 237 1109. Near Siliberi, Sanganer. Tel (0141) 260 3450. Fatehabad Road,
Tel (0141) 273 1106.
Jewellery Blue Pottery
Taj Ganj, Agra.
Soma Shop Tel (0562) 233 3167.
Amrapali 5, Jacob Rd, Civil Neerja International
Tholia Building, Panch Lines, Jaipur. Anand Bhawan, Jacob Rd, Bazaars
Batti, MI Rd, Jaipur. Tel (0141) 222 2778. Civil Lines, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 237 7940. Agra
Tel (0141) 411 2609
Embroidered Johari Bazaar
Bhuramal
Textiles Handmade Paper Cotton dhurries.
Rajmal Surana
Kinari Bazaar
Johari Bazaar, Jaipur.
Indian Crafts Salim’s Paper Jewellery and zari work.
Tel (0141) 257 0429.
Gallery Gramodyog Rd, Sanganer. Taj Ganj
Dwarka’s Fatehabad Rd, Agra. Tel (0141) 273 0222. Marble inlay.
61 B, Sardar Patel Marg, Tel (0562) 223 0336.
C Scheme, Jaipur. Books, Tea Jaipur
Thar Inc. and Spices Johari Bazaar,
Tel (0141) 236 9798.
65, Mathur Vaishya Gopalji ka Rasta,
Gem Palace Nagar, Tonk Rd, Books Corner Haldiyon ka Rasta
MI Rd, Jaipur. Sanganer, Jaipur. Shop No. 82, Jewellery and
Tel (0141) 237 4175. Tel (0141) 272 1913. MI Road, Jaipur. tie-and-dye textiles.
Tel (0141) 236 6323. Khajanewalon ka Rasta
Koh-i-Noor
41, MG Rd, Agra.
Carpets and Marble carving.
Bookwise
Tel (0562) 246 0855.
Dhurries Mall 21, MI Rd, Jaipur. Kishanpol Bazaar
Ambika Exports Tel (0141) 236 4755. Tie-and-dye textiles.
Munshi
Naila House, Moti Maniharon ka Rasta
Ganeshi Lal Grah Sangrah
Doongri Rd, Jaipur. Lac bangles.
& Son Dept Store
Tel (0141) 261 5059. Nehru Bazaar
9, MG Rd, Agra. Khasa Kothi Circle,
Embroidered jootis.
Tel (0562) 233 0168. Jaipur Rugs Villa Station Rd, Jaipur.
Ramganj Bazaar
G 250, Mansarovar Tel (0141) 220 3600.
Silver Mountain Shoes.
Shop No. 141, Industrial Area, Maharaja Exports
Mirza Islam Rd, Jaipur. Tel (0141) Fatehabad Rd,
Jaipur. Tel (0141) 239 8948. Near MG Tower, Agra.
400 1603. Tel (05612) 400 5622.
Kanu Carpet
Surana Jewellers Factory Saroj Handicrafts
B 7E, Surana Enclave, 8/166/E, Purani and Arts
Sawai Ramsingh Rd, Mandi, Fatehabad Rd, A-2, Tilak Marg, C-Scheme,
Jaipur. Taj Ganj, Agra. Nandanam Apts, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 237 2544. Tel (0562) 233 1307. Tel (0141) 511 0927.
262 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
What to Buy
The bazaars, markets and boutiques of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
showcase the wide range of the region’s arts and crafts. In
many places shoppers have the joy of watching artisans at
work and buying directly from them. The quality can vary,
but the range is unbelievable, from exotic, aromatic spices
to ceramics and handicrafts, carpets, textiles and jewellery.
There are also elegant contemporary interpretations of
traditional design.
Jewelled and enamelled
armband
Jewellery
Antique and jewellery shops stock
exquisite pieces of gem-encrusted
kundan and enamelled
meenakari jewellery. Also
available are the silver
ornaments worn by
local men and women.
Silver anklets, bracelet and armband
Hand-crafted
cutlery
A pencil holder
A goblet in
mixed metal
Metal
Bronze and brass objects of
everyday use, such as pots,
lamps or boxes, are widely
available along with an Silver fan
exciting range of artifacts in (pankha)
silver and other metals created Brass pots
by contemporary designers. (lotas)
Pottery
Abundant earthenware vessels
and toys made by local potters
can be seen stacked along the
roadside. Commonly found are
a sophisticated range of
patterned tableware from
Khurja, and Jaipur’s famous
Door-knobs blue pottery.
Terracotta
votive figure
Textiles
Blockprints and silk and cotton woven
textiles in a dazzling choice of colours
and designs can be bought by the yard
or ready-made garments, scarves and
saris. Floor coverings are either the thick
pile carpets or the colourful cotton
dhurries used in Indian homes.
Window Scarves by
blinds Abraham
& Thakore
Light-weight
cotton quilts
Herbal Products
Traditional natural remedies have been
re-invented to suit the contemporary need
for eco-friendly cosmetics, soothing oils and
lotions, tea and joss sticks (incense).
Joss sticks
(agarbatti)
Traditional perfumes
(attar)
Ayurvedic cosmetics
Soap
Natural Rosewater
Herbal tea
Handmade
Handicrafts paper box
Materials such as
handmade paper,
leather, stone and
wood are used to
make decorative and
functional objects
such as shoes, plates, Embroidered
boxes and puppets. slippers
264 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT
Except for Delhi, which offers a wide range during the peak season. One reason for
of cultural entertainment round the year this is that most Indians prefer to spend their
(see pp124–5), options in most other cities evenings or holidays with the family. As outings
are often restricted to the cultural fare offered invariably include children, the cinema is a
by the hotels. Although both Agra and Jaipur favourite, while religious festivals, which offer
have a strong tradition of folk and classical free entertainment, are also popular. However,
performing arts, these can only be seen dining out is a rising fad among the urban elite.
DIRECTORY
Performing Welcomgroup Inox Bars
Art Centres Rajputana Crystal Palm Mall, C Scheme,
Palace Sheraton Cheeta
Sardar Patel Marg, Jaipur.
Birla Auditorium Palace Rd, Jaipur. Hotel Jaipur Ashok, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 511 7299.
Statue Circle, Jaipur. Tel (0141) 510 0100. Tel (0141) 220 4491.
Tel (0141) 238 5224. Raj Mandir Polo Bar
Cinemas C 16, Bhagwan Das Rd, Rambagh Palace, Bhawani
Jawahar Kala Kendra Panch Batti, Jaipur. Singh Rd, Jaipur.
Jawaharlal Nehru Big Cinema
Tel (0141) 237 4694. Tel (0141) 238 5700.
Marg, Jaipur. Agra: TDI Mall, Phase 1,
Taj Nagri Scheme, Agra. Sanjay Talkies Rajwada Library Bar
Tel (0141) 270 6560.
Tel 936 810 3619. Sanjay Place, Rajvilas, Jaipur.
Ram Niwas Bagh Jaipur: B 6, Central Spine, Civil Court, Agra. Tel (0141) 268 0101.
Behind Central Vidhyadhar Nagar. Tel (0562) 285 0384. Rana Sanga
Museum, Jaipur. Tel 931 410 6185.
Shree Roof Top Bar
Tel (0141) 256 5244. Entertainment Mansingh Palace, Jaipur.
National Highway 2,
Paradise Tel (0141) 237 8771.
Ravindra Manch Byepass Rd, Agra.
Jawahar Circle, Jaipur.
JN Marg, Jaipur. Tel (0562) 285 3737.
Tel (0141) 512 7591.
Tel (0141) 261 9061.
Golcha Chandra Space 1-2-3
Sur Sadan Mahal City Plaza, Bani Park,
Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Near New Gate, Jaipur. Jaipur. Tel (0141)
Agra. Tel (0562) 285 4498. Tel (0141) 257 7011. 220 8444.
266 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SPORTS AND
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Previously, only the traditional sports such while the tumultous mountain streams
as cricket and polo provided visitors with above Rishikesh are ideal for white-water
opportunities for participating in outdoor rafting and kayaking. A camel or horse
activities. But today, the tourism industry safari is a good way to experience the
offers a vast diversity of choices for specialist haunting beauty of the Rajasthan desert,
holidays. For sports lovers, the main cities, and wildlife enthusiasts can visit the national
especially Delhi and Jaipur, offer clubs and parks for tiger-spotting and birdwatching.
grounds for golf, tennis, swimming and For those wishing to delve deeper into the
riding. Those in search of adventure can mystique of the region, there are centres
explore the foothills of the Himalayas and for yoga and meditation, naturopathy
the Aravallis by trekking or rock climbing, and spiritual studies.
Golf
All major cities have well-
maintained golf courses. In
Delhi, the oldest and most
prestigious course is at the
Delhi Golf Club, located next
to The Oberoi Hotel. This 27-hole
course, creatively developed
The open-air Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, New Delhi around a cluster of beautiful
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 267
Ecotourism
This relatively new concept
in tourism, which combines
various aspects of nature
study along with participation
in conservation activities, is
steadily gaining ground in India. Trekking in the Himalayan foothills
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 269
DIRECTORY
Sports Children’s Cultural Studies Vipassana Sadhana
Activities Sansthan
Classic Golf Resort Aurobindo Ashram Village Bhatti, opposite
NH8 (to Gurgaon), National Off Aurobindo Marg, Radha Saomi Satsang,
Distt Gurgaon. Science Centre Delhi. Tel (011) 2656 7863. Chatterpur Temple
Tel (0124) 237 8849. Bhairon Marg, Pragati Rd, Delhi.
Ayurveda Tel (011) 2645 2772.
Maidan, Delhi. Map 6 D1. Kendra Clinic
Delhi Golf Club
Zakir Hussain Marg, Tel (011) 2337 1893. Rishikesh.
∑ nscdelhi.org Tel (0135) 243 0626.
River Rafting
Delhi. Map 5 C4.
Tel (011) 2430 7100. Nehru Planetarium Indo Asia Tours Himalayan River
∑ delhigolfclub.org Teen Murti House, Delhi. 56, Insititutional Area, Runners
Sector 44, Gurgaon. 101, Ashirvad Building,
Map 4 E3.
Delhi Riding Club Tel (0124) 453 4500/600.
Green Park, Delhi.
Safdarjung Rd, Delhi. Tel (011) 2301 4504. Tel (011) 2685 2602.
Map 4 F5. Kairali Health Resort ∑ hrrindia.com
Tel (011) 2301 1891. Camping D 120, Andheria More, World Expeditions
Jai Club
and Trekking Mehrauli, Delhi. India
Tel (011) 6566 4447. G-1, MG Bhavan,
Mahaveer Marg, Indian ∑ kairali.com Madangir, Delhi.
C Scheme, Jaipur. Mountaineering
Tel (0141) 237 2321/22. Sivananda Tel (011) 4164 9358.
Federation
Benito Juarez Road, Delhi. Yoga Vedanta
Rajasthan Polo Club Nataraja Centre
Ambedkar Circle, Near Tel (011) 2411 7935.
∑ indmount.org A 41, Kailash
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur. Colony, Delhi.
Tel (0141) 222 7375. Tel (011) 3206 9070.
Ecotourism ∑ sivananda.org.in
Heli-Tourism
WWF India Tushita Mahayana
Deccan Aviation 172-B, Lodhi Estate, Delhi. Meditation Centre
G-11, Haus Khas Market, Map 5 A4. 9, Padmini Enclave, Delhi.
Delhi. Tel (011) 2652 0036. Tel (011) 4150 4815. Tel (011) 2651 3400.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
India’s most popular travel route, via the and Uttar Pradesh. There are innumerable
three cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, receives travel agencies in these cities but it is wise
the majority of the 5 million tourists who to approach a reputable one when booking
visit the country annually. Because of this, your accommodation, travel tickets and
the range of transport, accommodation and sightseeing tours. It is also sensible to plan
information offered in these cities is among and book in advance if you wish to make
the best in India. The government-run a visit in the winter, since this is the peak
Incredible India tourist department has a tourist season. The more remote areas
centrally located office in Delhi and many are still not equipped to cater to the
overseas branches. You can also get up-to- international traveller who may be used
date visitor information at the local state to better banking facilities or prefer to
tourist departments of Delhi, Rajasthan pay by credit card.
DIRECTORY
Visas and Passports Delhi. Map 5 A5. Tel (011) 2331 5322. Student and
Tel (011) 2436 0605. ∑ delhitourism.nic.in Senior Travellers
Foreigners’ Regional ∑ moef.nic.in
Registration Office Incredible India Vishwa Yuvak Kendra
Agra: 16 Idgah Colony. Embassies and Agra: The Mall. Agra: Sanjay Place, MG Rd.
Tel (0562) 236 7563. Consulates Tel (0562) 222 6378. Tel (0562) 285 4462.
Delhi: 8, East Block, RK Delhi: 88, Janpath. Delhi: 1, Circular Rd,
Puram Sector I. Australia Teen Murti Marg,
Map I C5.
Tel (011) 2671 1443. Tel (011) 4139 9900. Chanakyapuri. Map 4 D3.
Tel (011) 2332 0008.
Jaipur: Police Headquarters, ∑ india.embassy. gov.au Tel (011) 2301 3631.
Jaipur: State Hotel,
Behind Hawa Mahal. Ireland Jaipur: Bhagwan Das Rd.
Tel (0141) 261 8508. Khasa Kothi.
Tel (011) 4940 3200. Tel (0141) 274 0515.
Tel (0141) 237 2200.
Ministry of ∑ irelandinindia.com YHAI
∑ incredibleindia.org
Home Affairs Agra: Youth Hostel Agra,
New Zealand
North Block, Central
Tel (011) 4688 3170.
Rajasthan Tourism Hotel Chanakya,
Secretariat, Mansingh Rd, Delhi: Bikaner House, Shamshabad Rd.
∑ nzembassy. com/india
Delhi. Map 4 E2. Shahjahan Rd. Map 5 B2. Tel (0562) 223 0959.
Tel (011) 2309 2011. United Kingdom Tel (011) 2338 9525. Delhi: International
∑ mha.nic.in Tel (011) 2419 2100.
Youth Hostel, 5, Nyaya
Jaipur: TRC Govt Hostel,
∑ ukinindia.fco.gov.uk
MI Road. Tel (0141) 511 0598. Marg, Chanakyapuri.
Customs USA Tel (011) 2611 0250.
Information ∑ rajasthantourism.
Tel (011) 2419 8000. gov.in Jaipur: Youth Hostel
Archaeological ∑ newdelhi. Jaipur, D 81, Shiv Hira
Survey of India usembassy.gov Uttar Pradesh Tourism Path, C Scheme, Chomu
Janpath, Delhi. Map 5 A2. Agra: 64 Taj Rd. House Circle.
Tel (011) 2301 3574. Tourist Tel (0562) 222 6431. Tel (0141) 236 1971.
∑ asi.nic.in Information Delhi: Chandralok ∑ yhaindia.org
Etiquette
Friendly and easy-going by nature, Indians consider hospitality
intrinsic to their culture and religion. Guests are treated with
immense courtesy, and people on the street will go out of their
way to help you. If you need any guidance on issues regarding
fares, rates or directions, feel free to ask around. Don’t be afraid
of haggling, bargaining is a normal practise in India. As there
are diverse religions, castes and social hierarchies in the region,
it is advisable to address everyone with respect without
making allusions to their religious, ethnic or regional group.
Public display of affection, like kissing, is frowned upon.
Customs and rules of etiquette still follow traditional Indian
norms, except in very Westernized sections of urban society. Devotees with their heads covered in a
place of worship
shorts. Shoes are taken off at Hotel staff, porters and most taxi
the door and you should sit drivers expect a tip of between
with your feet turned away 10 and 20. A few rupees given
from the idol or the holy book. to the person who minds your
In Hindu temples, it is shoes outside a place of wor-
permissible to offer flowers and ship will be happily accepted.
incense for worship. Apart from
the central deity, the temples
often have subsidiary shrines Smoking and Alcohol
in other parts of the temple Though cigarette kiosks
precincts. Even those in ruins abound and pavement sellers
are considered holy. Some sell one cigarette at a time,
Hindu temples do not welcome smoking in Delhi is officially
non-Hindus although this is banned in public places.
rarely the case. However, if Some buildings have smoking
stopped at the door, do not Traditional village women, veiling their areas within their premises.
take offence. In mosques and faces with ghunghats Only certain restaurants
in gurudwaras, cover your head are licensed to serve alcohol,
with a scarf, not a hat. You taste. Readymade clothes and you are not allowed to
should avoid entering a for both men and women drink in parks, buses or trains.
mosque during prayers, and are available in most markets Drinking near a place of worship
men should stay away from at reasonable prices. is considered very offensive
the women’s enclosure. and can lead to arrest.
Bargaining
Bargaining is a part of life in Beggars
India but do not fret over it. Visitors can find beggars
Firmly state what you would difficult to handle as they
like to pay and walk away if the target foreigners and can be
shopkeeper does not agree. extremely persistent. Tourists
Larger shops and malls usually who give money to one soon
have fixed price tags and find themselves surrounded
advertise discounts if any. by a raucous throng demanding
baksheesh. Be careful of being
pickpocketed in the confusion.
Eating Indian-style Beggars are found in the largest
Shoes left at the entrance of a Though most Indian restaurants numbers around places of
religious temple provide cutlery, Indian meals worship as they are more likely
are often eaten with hands to to be given alms there. But it is
Suitable Dress facilitate the tearing of the best not to encourage beggars
The Indian style of clothing is chapati or bread and to scoop and to walk on till they leave
relatively modest and covers up rice and curry. It is considered you alone. If necessary, com-
the body well. In small towns, impolite to use your left hand plain to a nearby policeman
women still prefer the traditional to eat. Many restaurants also or raise an alarm if in trouble.
sari or the salwar-kameez and provide finger bowls at the If you do want to give charity
seldom wear Western outfits, end of the meal. directly, your hotel may have
though very young girls can a donation box or the staff
be seen in skirts or dresses. will be able to suggest a few
Delhi has a more cosmopolitan Taxes and Tipping charitable institutions.
attitude, and in the trendier parts There are no fixed norms
of the city, jeans, short skirts and for tipping, or baksheesh,
shorts are quite common. How- as it is called. Most larger
ever, Indian men tend to stare restaurants add a service
at women, so be prepared charge so often there is
for this, whatever you wear. no need to tip extra.
Agra and Jaipur are relatively In smaller eateries, the
conservative cities, therefore, waiter would be pleased
Western clothes might attract if you round up the bill
some unwanted attention. as there usually is not
Indians like to dress up for a service charge.
occasions. You can choose Most upmarket hotels
to experiment with traditional add a luxury tax of
Indian clothing or wear anything around 12.5 per cent The traditional Indian thali meal, eaten with the right
that is smart and suits your onto the price of a room. hand, seated on the floor
278 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
What to be Aware of
Travelling in the region is
relatively safe for tourists.
Since Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
are major tourist centres, there
are bound to be touts, beggars
and pickpockets who target
travellers. Take simple safety
measures, such as wearing a
money belt under your shirt
to keep money and important
documents in. Protect your A hospital ambulance
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 279
Legal Assistance
Legal problems are very rare
for travellers, but if you do
find yourself in a legal tangle,
immediately contact your Pavement vendors peddling healing salves and ointments
280 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
The symptoms of both include similar symptoms but takes a the spinal cord and brain, is
violent shivering followed by longer time to manifest itself in accompanied by high fever
high fever and sweating, the human body. If not treated and occasional seizures. It is
sometimes accompanied by with a course of prescription transmitted by a bacterial
headaches. A parasite carried drugs, this can later become a or viral infection sometimes
in the saliva of the female recurring, chronic ailment. The carried by rodents. Penicillin
Anopheles mosquito same is true of drugs are effective in combating
triggers the illness, giardiasis, a type of it, but patients must be rushed
and the incubation chronic diarrhoea, to a hospital immediately.
period can vary from caused by drinking If you are bitten by an animal,
a few days to several contaminated water. clean the wound with an
weeks. Another Some forms of antiseptic solution and seek
serious mosquito- hepatitis, a serious medical help at once in order
borne disease is liver ailment, such to avoid getting rabies or any
dengue fever, as hepatitis A and other infection. The necessary
carried by B, can be prevented anti-rabies treatment involves
the Aëdes egypti with a vaccine. a course of injections. There is
mosquito. The Mosquito repellent coil Symptoms of the also a vaccination to prevent
symptoms are similar and cream illness include it. Vaccination against tetanus
to malaria and include extreme fatigue, body is essential before travelling.
rashes and severe pain in the aches, jaundice, fever and severe This potentially fatal infection
joints and muscles. The dengue chills. The only treatment is transmitted through open
mosquito is more active during is to drink plenty of boiled water, wounds that have been in
daytime, while the insects rest and a strictly controlled diet. contact with a bacteria found
causing malaria are active If you are visiting a site in soil and manure, and its
between sunset and dawn. ravaged by floods you must symptoms include lock-jaw, stiff
If you are sleeping in a room get yourself fully vaccinated muscles and fatal convulsions.
without air-conditioning, keep against cholera at least one As a rule, if you badly cut yourself,
the screened windows closed week before travelling there. you should clean the wound
at all times. You can also ask the Cholera is a serious disease and go to a good doctor
hotel for a mosquito repellent that can be fatal unless the without delay.
gadget, as well as a net over patient is rushed to a hospital Tuberculosis, commonly
your bed. Avoid wearing dark for rehydration and medication. transmitted through coughing
clothing and strong perfumes Typhoid, which has a vaccine, and close household contact
as these tend to attract is another gastro-intestinal with an infected person, is
mosquitoes. If going outdoors disease transmitted through not a great risk for travellers.
in the evenings, you should contaminated water or food. Before an injection, buy your
wear clothes that completely Early symptoms may seem like own disposable syringe, or insist
cover your arms and legs, and flu, but develop into high fever, that a new syringe and needle
rub mosquito repellent cream leading to acute dehydration is unwrapped in front of you.
on exposed body parts. and weight loss. A doctor should Avoid shaves at dubious barber
If you experience symptoms of be immediately consulted for shops, and insist on a new razor
malaria or dengue fever, it is best the right antibiotics. blade. Any procedure using
to seek medical help immediately. Since these are the most needles, such as tattooing and
For the latest information on common ailments faced by ear-piercing, is best avoided.
malaria medication and whether travellers to India, it is best to
to take a course of preventive remain hygiene conscious and
antimalarial drugs, call a travel eat only clean food and drink
clinic or check the MASTA website bottled mineral water through-
(see p279) for information. out the course of your stay.
DIRECTORY
Banks Tel (011) 6757 4314. Map 1 B5. MasterCard
Jaipur: Raj Bank Building, Tel (011) 2340 7935. Tel 000 800 100 1087.
Allahabad Bank Sir Mirza Ismail Rd. Jaipur: Tilak Marg. Visa
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54,
Tel (0141) 325 6145. Tel (0141) 510 1547. Tel 000 800 100 1219.
Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6531.
Standard Chartered Wiring Money
Central Bank of India Debit and
Delhi: 23, Barakhamba Rd,
Agra: 37/2/4, Sanjay Place. Credit Cards
Narian Manzil, Connaught Citibank
Delhi: 3, Bahadurshah
Place. Delhi: Shop No. 124,
Jafar Road, New Delhi. American Express
Map 2 D5. Jeevan Bharti Building,
Tel 1800 200 1911. Delhi: Hamilton House, Connaught Place. Map 1
Tel (011) 3940 1500.
ICICI Connaught Place. C5. Tel (011) 2336 6205.
Agra: 5, Saket Colony, Shah State Bank of India Map 1 C4. HSBC
Ganj. Tel (0512) 233 1042. Agra: Chhipitola Complex, Delhi: Birla Towers, Ashoka
Tel 1800 22 2639.
Delhi: 9A, Phelps Building, MG Rd. Estate, Barakhamba Rd.
Inner Circle, Connaught Tel (0562) 226 2663. Diners Club Map 2 D5.
Place. Map 1 C4. Delhi: 11, Sansad Marg. Tel (44) 1244 47 0910. Tel (011) 2371 9403.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 283
Bank Notes
All currency is minted by the Reserve Bank of India.
The notes have either Mahatma Gandhi or the
Ashoka lions on one side.
₹10 note
₹20 note
₹50 note
₹100 note
₹500 note
Coins
The following silver coins are ₹1,000 note
in circulation, with variations
of the ₹1 coin. All bear the
national insignia.
₹1 ₹2 ₹5 ₹10
284 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones Tel (011) 4297 4297, 98996 Tel (011) 2336 4111. Newspapers
18482 (centralized number). Jaipur: Mirza Ismail Rd. and Magazines
Airtel ∑ blazeflash.com
∑ airtel.in
Tel (0141) 237 4000. Delhi Diary
DHL Courier Service India Post ∑ delhidiary.in
Reliance Delhi: 47–48, G5, Pragati
∑ rcom.co.in Agra: Tel (0562) 252 1863. First City
House, Nehru Place.
Delhi: Tel (011) 2332 4214. ∑ firstcitydelhi.com
Tata Dokomo Tel (011) 2643 0490.
∑ tatadocomo.com ∑ dhl.co.in Jaipur: Tel (0141) 401 1061. Hindustan Times
∑ overnitenet.com ∑ hindustantimes.com
Vodafone Desk to Desk Courier
∑ indiapost.gov.in
∑ vodafone.in Tel (011) 3300 4444. India Today
∑ dtdc.com Speed Post ∑ indiatoday.intoday.in
Internet ∑ speedpost.org.in
FedEx Courier Service Outlook
British Council Agra: Tel (0562) 2600 0015. ∑ outlookindia.com
UPS Courier Service
Tel (172) 274 5195. Delhi: Tel (011) 2386 0502.
Agra: 19 & 20, Bhavana The Times of India
∑ britishcouncil.org/ Jaipur: Tel (0141) 606 4639.
∑ timesofindia.
india.htm ∑ fedex.com.in Tower, Sector 16,
indiatimes.com
Mathura Rd.
American Library Foreign Post Office World-Newspapers
Tel (0562) 645 6148.
Tel (011) 2347 2000. Kotla Marg, Near ITO ∑ world-newspapers.
∑ newdelhi.usembassy. Delhi. Map 2 F4. Delhi: D 12/1, Okhla
com/india
gov/americanlibrary.html Tel (011) 2323 1281. Industrial Area, Phase II.
Tel (011) 7172 6200.
Postal Services General Post Office
Jaipur: E 51, Chittaranjan
Agra: The Mall.
Blazeflash Couriers Tel (0562) 246 3886. Marg, C Scheme.
Delhi: C 143, Phase I, Delhi: Ashok Rd. Tel (0141) 511 3800.
Naraina Industrial Area. Map 4 F1. ∑ UPS.com
286 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most international visitors to India arrive run Air India has the widest network of air
by air. Road and rail links are also used for routes. Private airlines including Indigo and
travel between India and her neighbouring Jet Airways cover many cities in this region.
countries such as Pakistan, Nepal and Indian Railways is one of the world’s most
Bangladesh. Travelling within the country, widespread networks and travelling first
and especially between the three cities class is a good way to see and explore the
of the Golden Triangle, is possible by air, entire country. The long-distance luxury
train and road. The triangular distance coach is another viable option. Whatever
between Agra, Jaipur and Delhi is less than your mode of transport, you should be
250 km (155 miles) and should only take a prepared for delays and unexpected
couple of hours by road or rail. The state- detours that may test your patience.
Agra (only charters) (0562) 240 0844 16 km (10 miles) Road: 45 minutes
Discounts
If planning to travel extensively
around India, the Indrail Pass
A modern diesel engine train is a good option, as it will save
you hours of queueing time
The Railway Network Tickets and Fares and, if you book in advance,
The Indian railway network Be sure to buy your tickets reservation charges. It offers
is divided by region, and the in advance with reserved seat unlimited travel across the
cities of Agra, Delhi and Jaipur numbers noted on them. Your country, in either class, for 7
are served by the Northern Railway. hotel travel counter or travel to 90 days. It can be bought
Delhi major railway stations are: agent can arrange this for you. in India or abroad, but must
Old Delhi, New Delhi, Sarai Rohilla Avoid buying tickets from touts, be paid for in foreign currency.
and Hazrat Nizamuddin. as this is illegal and unreliable. Occasionally the pass may be
Taj Express and the Bhopal An International Tourist more expensive than buying
Shatabdi Express provide the Bureau, on the first floor of individual trip tickets, so work
fastest morning trains for Agra. New Delhi Station, is open out what trips you want to
With a journey time of Monday to Saturday, make before purchasing.
less than 3 hours, these from 7:30am to 5pm, here Also, ensure that you have a
services make a day you can purchase tickets, confirmed seat reservation for
trip possible. Other payable in US dollars or each journey by checking online
speedy options to pounds sterling, backed or contacting the train station.
reach Agra include by exchange certificates
the Kerala Express, a and get priority
morning service taking reservations. Tickets
1 hour and 15 minutes, Train timetable are refundable, subject
and Tamil Nadu Express, to cancellation charges.
departing at night with Booking centres are also
a journey time of 1 hour located at other railway stations.
and 40 minutes.
The Ajmer Shatabdi Express
and Jammu All Express are the Trains and Timetables
fastest routes between Delhi There are three kinds of trains:
and Jaipur, both taking less passenger, mail and express.
than 5 hours. Another train to It is best to take the express
Jaipur from Delhi is the Ashram trains as they have fewer stops
Express, which takes 5 hours and offer better facilities and
and 30 minutes. services. Avoid passenger trains A crowded railway platform
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 289
DIRECTORY
The Railway Network
Agra Station
Civil Lines. Tel 36 4612.
Hazrat Nizamuddin Station
Harsha Road, Nizamuddin East.
Map 6 E5. Tel (011) 2435 8753.
Jaipur Station
Railway Rd, Shanti Nagar,
Hasanpura. Tel 131.
Old Delhi Station
Shyama Prasad Mukherji Marg.
Map 2 D1. Tel 131.
Railway ticket booking centre at New Delhi Railway Station
New Delhi Station
Services elsewhere. Go to the Upper & Rail Yatri Niwas
Connaught Place. Map 1 C4.
When at a station look for the Class Waiting Rooms. Left
Tel 6663 3333.
licensed porters or coolies to luggage facilities, called cloak-
assist you with your luggage. rooms, are offered at most Northern Railway
They wear red shirts and stations. The quality ∑ nr.indianrailways.gov.in
armbands with a of food and drinks at Sarai Rohilla Station
metal tag bearing stations is good, both Near Rohtak Rd, Sarai
a licence number at the canteens Rohilla, New Delhi.
on it. Note the and from platform
porter’s number vendors. Make sure that Tickets and Fares
incase you lose sight you carry a good supply
International Tourist Bureau
of him in the chaos. of bottled mineral water to
Map 1 C3. Tel (011) 2334 6804.
Tariffs vary according avoid any health hazards.
to weight, although Trains and Timetables
₹40–75 per item is an
acceptable rate – settle On Board Indian Railways
on a fee at the time of Indians travel with a large ∑ indianrail.gov.in
hiring your porter. amount of luggage and like
The Rail Yatri Niwas making friends while travelling Discounts
(see The Railway by train. So unless you bury Indrail Pass
Network), at New Delhi yourself in a book, be ∑ indiarail.co.uk
Station, offers very prepared to spend
basic facilities, but is time talking to fellow The Royal Trains
a convenient and safe Porters in red, easy passengers. Try to get
night halt. Otherwise to recognize a window seat or the Palace on Wheels
∑ palaceonwheels.net
railway waiting rooms, uppermost sleeper.
most having proper beds, are Toilets are of the Indian and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
the best place to spend the Western kind. Carry your own ∑ royalrajasthanonwheels.com
night if you are unable to go toilet paper, soap and towel.
DIRECTORY
State Government-
run Buses
Idgah Bus Stop
Agra: Model Town, Idgah Colony.
Tel (0562) 242 0324.
Maharana Pratap Inter
State Bus Terminus
Delhi: Kashmiri Gate, Mori Gate.
Tel (011) 296 0290.
∑ delhigovt.nic.in/newdelhi/
dept/transport/tr6.asp
Rajasthan State Road
Transport Bus Stop
Delhi: Bikaner House, Pandara Rd.
Map 5 B2. Tel (011) 2338 9525.
An overcrowded local bus in Rajasthan ∑ indiatransit.com/public_
transport/rajasthan_state_
run by private operators and of week or longer itineraries road.aspx
travel agencies have regular and extensive package holidays Sarai Kale Khan Bus Stop
coach services departing from that make it possible to visit Delhi: Mahatma Gandhi Rd.
Delhi during the peak tourist many of the region’s best Map 6 F5. Tel (011) 2463 8092.
season of October to March. landmarks with ease. Most of Sindhi Camp Bus Stop
It is feasible to have a day trip these tours are by private coach. Jaipur: Near Station Rd.
Tel (1800) 200 0103.
to Agra, however, if you want Tourism offices and travel
to visit Fatehpur Sikri and all agents who specialize in Department of
of Agra’s sites as well as go adventure tours (see p265) Tourism-run Buses
shopping, it would be wise offer excursion packages in Ashok Tours & Travels
to stop-over for the night. smaller vehicles, including Delhi: Jeevan Vihar Building,
The same is true if you wish guides and accommodation. 3rd Floor, Parliament St.
to take a one- or two-day Map 1 B5. Tel (011) 2374 8165.
trip to Jaipur. ∑ attindiatourism.com
If you have booked a short Tickets and Reservations Uttar Pradesh
bus trip through a travel agent, Ordinary bus fares are slightly Tourism Department
a guided tour is usually included higher than passenger train Tel (0522) 230 7037.
as is an overnight stay at a hotel. tickets, however, deluxe bus ∑ up-tourism.com
Luxurious coaches collect fares are cheaper than first-class Package Tours
passengers from several or air-conditioned train tariffs.
pick-up points, usually It is important to consider what Mercury Travels
Delhi: Jeevan Tara Building,
designated hotels. vehicle you will be travelling in
Sansad Marg. Map 1 B5.
You can reserve a place on before purchasing your ticket. Tel (011) 2336 2008.
a short private tour through Ordinary coaches are slow, Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraj,
your hotel’s reception desk uncomfortable and usually very 54, Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6531.
or by visiting a travel agency. crowded. In hot weather, an ∑ mercury-india.com
State tourism departments air-conditioned bus is essential Sita World Tours
and private tour companies, for long-distance travel. Tickets Delhi: Tower B, Delta Square,
such as TCI, Mercury Travels, and seat reservations for top- Sector 25, MG Rd, Gurgaon.
Sita World Tours and Thomas of-the-range buses can be Tel (0124) 470 3400.
∑ sitatours.com
Cook India, offer a wide range booked in advance.
TCI
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54,
Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6521.
Delhi: 520, Udyog Vihar Phase III,
Gurgaon. Tel (0124) 612 0100.
Jaipur: 19 C, Gopal Bari, Ajmer Rd.
Tel (0141) 236 2075.
∑ tcindia.com
Thomas Cook India
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54, Taj Rd.
Tel (0562) 285 7777.
Delhi: M 32, M Block Market, Greater
Kailash I. Tel (011) 4163 4521.
Jaipur: 19 C, Gopal Bari,
Ajmer Rd. Tel (0141) 510 2344.
∑ thomascook.in
Clean and comfortable luxury tourist buses
292 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travel by Road
Travelling by car is a comfortable and leisurely way to travel
within and between the three cities, allowing you to move
at your own pace and visit whatever sites you wish along
Hand-cart Bullock-cart
the way. Hiring a chauffeur-driven car makes shopping and prohibited prohibited
sightseeing much easier, as it relieves you of the stress of
negotiating traffic and locating destinations. This is often
cheaper than hiring a self-drive car. Vehicles can be hired
from car rental companies, hotels and taxi stands.
What to Take more often the exception than No horn please Bicycle crossing
If you plan to drive yourself, the rule. Bear in mind that there
make sure you bring your are numerous types of road names, to names of well-known
international driving licence. users, from pedestrians to cyclists, Indian or international figures.
It is possible to get a temporary bullock carts and buses. On Therefore it is important to carry
one from the Automobile highways, be wary of trucks that up-to-date and clear maps for
Association of Upper India muscle in whenever possible. the areas you wish to travel.
(AAUI) in Delhi, provided you There are also some unwritten Good maps are available of
have a valid driving licence rules that should be kept in Agra, Delhi and Jaipur as well
from your own country. How- mind. Note that flashing head- as of some of north India’s smaller
ever, you may be required to lights indicates the driver is cities and towns. It is best to buy
take a driving test. coming through, not giving any maps you need before you
You should also have a you way to over take. Few road travel, but you can also purchase
good map or GPS system to users adhere to staying within them when you arrive in India.
help you navigate the often their lane, and often illegally If buying before you leave,
confusing road network. For overtake from the left side Stanfords is always reliable for
more information on this see without any warning. Driving quality maps. For Delhi there is
Directions and Road Signs. through red lights is one of the an excellent city map available
biggest hazards and the cause from Eicher. Agra and Jaipur
of most accidents. Horns are also have clear state tourism
Rules of the Road used constantly, even in city maps which display all
Though there are established “No Horn” areas. the major roads and sights.
traffic rules, such as driving All maps are available in English.
within your own lane and If you are travelling by road
the discreet use of high-beam Directions and between the three cities, it is
lights, traffic can be chaotic on Road Signs advisable to acquire a road map
Indian roads. All too frequently The placement of road signs of North India from the AAUI.
traffic lights do not function, is erratic and at times they are The government Survey of India
and though major crossings not in English. Road names also has a good collection of
should have police guiding have also changed, particularly detailed maps available at their
oncoming vehicles, this is in Delhi, from the old English office. These maps indicate lesser
known places and various road
categories. Road signs of food
and bed symbols will inform
you of approaching motels
and eateries on the highway.
It may also be a good idea
to buy a GPS system to help
you navigate your way through
the crowded streets and high-
ways. MapmyIndia offers GPS
systems that specialise in India’s
extensive road network.
Parking
Parking can be a serious
problem in busy shopping
centres and in the commercial
complexes of the three cities.
A busy street in Delhi crammed with different modes of transport Most parking lots have been
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 293
Buses
Bus services in most Indian
cities are never adequate for
the large numbers who can
only afford this cheap means
of travel, and so buses are
always crowded. You can buy Different vehicles jostling in the streets of Jaipur
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 295
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Amanat Khan 161 Art Heritage (Delhi) 125
main entries. Amar Singh Gate (Agra Fort) 154 Aryabhatta 51
Amaravati (Andhra Pradesh) 78 Aryans 21, 47, 48
A Ambala 105 Ashley, Edwina (Mountbatten) 107
Aam Aadmi Party 64 Ambedkar Stadium (Delhi) 266 Ashok Group 233, 235
Aapki Pasand (Delhi) 123 Amber 185, 204–7 Ashok Tours & Travel (Delhi) 290, 291
Aath (“eight”) Havelis (Nawalgarh) 217 history 183, 186, 187 Ashoka, Mauryan emperor 50, 212
Abdar Khana (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 township 207 Ashokan edict 50
Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan 109 Amber Fort 11, 15, 204–6 Ashokan pillars 101, 107
Abhimanyu 213 Ambika Exports (Jaipur) 261 Ashoka tree (Saraca indica) 25
Abraham & Thakore (Delhi) 123 Ambikeshwar Mahadev Temple Ashrams see Dharamshalas and
Abu’l Fazl 210 (Amber) 207 ashrams
Accommodation see Hotels American Express 282 Asian Games Village Complex 112
Achariyon ki Haveli (Galta) 200 American Library (Delhi) 284, 285 Asiatic Society of Bengal 59
Addresses 285 Amir Khan 226 Atamsukh 195
Adhai Din ka Jhonpra (Ajmer) 222 Amrapali (Jaipur) 261 Atgah Khan’s tomb (Delhi) 86
Adham Khan 86, 89 Anaji 223 Athpula 83
Adham Khan’s Tomb (Mehrauli) 115, Anangpal 121 ATMs 282
117 Anangpur Dam 121 Attar 95
Adi Granth 27 Anasagar Lake (Ajmer) 222, 223 Aurangabad 194
Adiga, Aravind 65 Ancient Monuments Preservation Act Aurangzeb, Mughal emperor 57, 77,
Adilabad 118–19 1904 61 98, 101, 154, 186, 210, 226
Admission prices 273 Andaman Islands 62 Aurobindo Ashram (Delhi) 268
Aëdes egypti mosquito 281 Anglo-Afghan Wars Auto-rickshaws 294–5
Afzal Khan 162 Sedcond 61 Automobile Association of Upper
Agra 139, 151, 154–63 Third 75 India (AAUI) 292, 293
A Day in Agra 11 Anglo-Arabic School 100 Ayurveda Kendra Clinic (Rishikesh)
food and drink 245 Anglo-Indian community 27 268, 269
hotels 239–40 Anguri Bagh (Agra Fort) 14, 154
map 155 Anhilwad 53 B
restaurants 254 Ankh Michauli (Fatehpur Sikri) 175 Baba Kharak Singh Marg 81
shopping 260 Annakut 41 Babri Masjid (Delhi) 65
Two Days in Agra 14 Anokhi (Delhi) 83, 122, 123 Babur, Mughal emperor 56, 88, 144,
Agra and around 150–81 Anokhi (Jaipur) 261 147, 162, 218
exploring Agra and around 152–3 Anoop Talao (Fatehpur Sikri) 174, 175, and the Paradise Garden 171
hotels 239–40 176 Babur Nama 36, 78, 210
restaurants 254–5 Anopheles mosquito 281 Badal Mahal (Jaipur) 186
Agra Club 157 Antiques 122, 123, 259, 272 Badi Chaupar (Jaipur) 11, 190
Agra Fort 11, 14, 150, 151, 154, 170 Apartheid 63 street-by-street 188–9
Agra Fort Railway Station 156 Aquatera Adventures (Delhi) 234, 235 Badkhal Lake 269
Ahmad Shah Abdali 144 Arab ki Sarai 87 Badshahi Darwaza (Fatehpur Sikri)
AIDS 281 Arab traders 26 177
Air France 286, 287 Aram Bagh (Agra) 162 Baghera 222
Air India 286, 287 Aram Bagh (Amber) 206 Bagru 15, 208, 209, 260
Air travel 286–7 Aram Mandir (Jaigarh) 203 Bahadur Shah Zafar 98, 100, 101, 114,
Ajabgarh 213 Aravallis 21, 24, 108, 138, 183, 212, 117
Ajitgarh 107 214, 228, 266 Baha’i House of Worship (Delhi) 13,
Ajmer 138, 183, 222–5 Arayish 202 66–7, 119
hotels 240 Archaeological Museum (Gwalior) Baha’i sect 119
map 223 178 Bahlol Lodi’s tomb (Delhi) 83, 112
restaurants 255 Archaeological Museum (Jaipur) 190 Bahri & Sons (Delhi) 83
Ajmeri Gate (Delhi) 93, 100 Archaeological Survey of India 109, Bairat 212–13
Akbar, Mughal emperor 56, 115, 144, 207, 222, 259, 272, 275 Baisakhi 40, 42
154, 156, 174, 183, 195, 206, 227 Architecture 30–33 Baker, Herbert 31, 72, 74
tomb (Sikandra) 31, 164 colonial features 31 Bala Qila (Alwar) 210, 212
Akbar II, Mughal emperor 117, 119 early Indian 30 Balban 54
Akbar International (Agra) 261 early Indian architecture 30 Balban’s Tomb (Mehrauli) 115
Akbari Mosque (Amber) 207 fort architecture 32 Balloon Mela (Delhi) 44
Akbar’s Mosque (Ajmer) 225 glossary of 33 Bandung Conference 64
Alai Darwaza 30, 55, 116 history of 30–31 Banganga, River 213
Alamgiri Koran Sharif 226 Islamic 30 Bangladesh 64
Albert, Prince of Wales 198 Monsoon architecture 169 Bani Thani 219
Alcohol 243, 277 Mughal 31, 163 Banke Bihari Temple (Brindavan) 167
Alexander the Great 49, 165 palace architecture 32 Banks 282–3
All India Institute of Medical Sciences Arjuna 145, 213 Banyan tree (Ficus bengalensis) 24,
(Delhi) 278, 279 Armenian communities 27 228
Allahabad 148 Art Bara Darwaza (Delhi) 88
Alliance Française (Delhi) 124 Buddhist 51, 165 Bara Gumbad (Delhi) 13, 83
Alwar 13, 138, 210–11, 212 contemporary Indian 37 Bara Hindu Rao (Delhi) 107
hotels 240 Islamic 226 Baradari 206
map 211 Mughal 56, 79 Baramasa 37
restaurants 255 Rajput 53 Bargaining 277
GENERAL INDEX 297
Jai Prakash Yantra (Delhi) 81 Johari Bazaar (Jaipur) 189, 261 Ketu 144
Jai Prakash Yantra (Jaipur) 197 John Brothers (Delhi) 122, 123 Khadi 82
Jai Singh I 195, 204, 211 Jones, William 59 Khadi Ghar (Jaipur) 261
Jai Singh II 186, 188, 192 Jorawar Singh Gate (Gaitor) 203 Khair-ul-Manazil (Delhi) 85, 89
Jai Van 203 Jugal Kishore Temple (Brindavan) 167 Khajanewalon ka Rasta (Jaipur) 261
Jai Vilas Palace (Gwalior) 178 Juneja Art Gallery (Jaipur) 261 Khajuraho temples 53
Jaigarh 202, 203, 204, 207 Khalsa 27, 42
Jain, OP 118 K Khan, Amjad Ali 34
Jain votive plaque (Mathura) 78 Kachhawahas 183, 194, 201, 202, 204, Khan, Chenghiz 54
Jainism 27, 208 206, 208, 210 Khan, Dr Sahib 83
Digambaras 27 Kachi-ki-Sarai 164 Khan, Ghazi-ud-Din 100
Svetambaras 27 Kadamba (Anthocephatus cadamba) Khan, Iqbal 110
Tirthankaras 208, 223 25 Khan, Isa 87
Jaipur 138, 186–203 Kagazi Mohalla (Sanganer) 209 Khan, Nawab Faiz Ali 190
Badi Chaupar street-by-street 188–9 Kair (Capparis decidua) 215 Khan Abdul Ghaffar Khan 83
building of 187 Kairali Health Resort (Delhi) 268, 269 Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah 100, 113
A Day in Jaipur 11 Kakod Fort 227 Khan Market (Delhi) 11, 13, 83, 122,
food and drink 245 Kala Hanumanji 203 123
hotels 241 Kala Pani 62 Khari Baoli 96, 97
jewellery 191 Kalan Masjid (Delhi) 100 Khas Mahal (Agra Fort) 154
restaurants 255–7 Kalbelia 264 Khas Mahal (Red Fort) 99
shopping 260 Kali 29, 119 Kheri Gate (Amber) 207
Two Days in Jaipur 15 Kalidasa 50 Khilji, Alauddin 55, 110, 111, 112, 116,
Jaipur and environs 182–229 Kalinga War 50 227
exploring Jaipur and environs Kaliyamardan Krishna (Chola Bronze) Khiljis 54
184–5 78 Khirkee 100, 113
hotels 240–41 Kalkaji Temple (Delhi) 119 Khuni Darwaza (Delhi) 101
restaurants 255–7 Kamagata Maru 62 Khusrau, Amir 55, 85, 86
Jaipur House (Delhi) 75 Kamala (Delhi) 123 Khwabgah (Fatehpur Sikri) 174, 176
Jaipur Literature Festival 45 Kamani Auditorium (Delhi) 80, 124 Khwabgah (Red Fort) 99
Jaipur Rugs 261 Kamaraj, Nadar 73 Kikar 108
Jaipur Vision 264 Kamasutra 51 Kimkhabs 194
Jal Mahal (Narnaul) 144 Kamsa 165, 166 Kinari Bazaar (Agra) 155, 261
Jal Mahal (near Jaipur) 203 Kanak Vrindavan Temple (near Jaipur) Kinari Bazaar (Delhi) 94, 97
Jalan haveli (Fatehpur) 217 203 King cobra 25
Jaleb Chowk (Amber) 206 Kanch Mahal (Sikandra) 164 Kingfishers 120
Jamali-Kamali Mosque and Tomb Kanchana Ghat (Orchha) 180 Kingsway (Delhi) 71
(Mehrauli) 115 Kanishka 50, 51, 165 Kishangarh 219
Jama’t Khana Mosque (Delhi) 86 Kannauj 52 hotels 241
Jamawar shawl 79 Kans Qila (Mathura) 165 Kishangarh, Maharaja of 236
Jami Masjid (Agra) 155 Kantha embroidery 79 Kishangarh School of Painting 219
Jami Masjid (Delhi) 12, 19, 68, 92, 93, Kanu Carpet Factory (Agra) 261 Kishanpol Bazaar (Jaipur) 261
95, 96 Kanvinde, Achyut 89 Koh-i-Noor (Agra) 261
Jami Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 177 Karbala 40 Koran 26, 41, 54, 77
Jami Masjid (Jaipur) 189 Kargil 65 Koran-e-Kamal 226
Jami Masjid (Mathura) 165 Karim’s (Delhi) 94, 251 Kos minar 144, 152
Jami Masjid (Meerut) 146 Karnal 100, 107 Kosi 166
Jami Masjid (Saharanpur) 147 Karnataka 91 Kotwali 96
Janata Party 64, 65 Kartik 221 Krishna 29, 40, 41, 145, 165, 166
Janmashtami 41, 43, 167, 186 Kaserat Bazaar (Agra) 155 Krishna Cult 22, 144, 166, 167
Janpath (Delhi) 71, 75, 81, 82, 122 Kashmir 50, 65, 104 Krishna Katha 43
Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 81 Kashmiri Bazaar (Agra) 155 Krishna Museum (Kurukshetra) 144
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 11, 15, 188, Kashmiri Gate (Delhi), street-by-street Krshna revealing his Divinity as Visnu
196–7 104–5 to his parents 36–7
Japan Airlines 286, 287 Kasumbhil 110 Kuanwalji (Lord Shiva) 227
Jas Mandir (Amber) 204, 206 Katcheri Bagh (Bharatpur) 170 Kubera 76
Jawahar Burj (Bharatpur) 170 Kathak 35, 124, 264 Kufic script 77, 222
Jawahar Kala Kendra (Jaipur) 199, Kathak Bindadin Mahotsav (Delhi) 45 Kumar, Ram 75
264, 265 Kathak Kendra 45 Kumbh Mela 139, 148
Jawahar Mela 168 Kathak Utsav (Delhi) 44 Kundankari 191
Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium (Delhi) 266 Kathakali 124 Kuru tribe 144
Jawahir Singh 167 Katra Neel 97 Kurukshetra 144, 145, 213
Jeep and desert safaris 267 Katras 97 Kushak Mahal 82
Jet Airways 286, 287 Kaudiyala 149 Kushak-i-Shikar 107
JetLite 286, 287 Kauravas 144, 145, 213 Kushanas 21, 47, 50, 76, 165
Jewellery 191 Kayaking 269 Kusum Sarovar 166
shopping 261, 262 Kedarnath, Raja 119 Kutch 90
Jews 27 Kennedy, Jacqueline 199
Jhansi 179 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 14, L
Jhor 171 151, 172–3 Lachhmangarh 217
Jinnah, MA 63 Kerala 91 Ladliji Temple (Barsana) 166
Jodha Bai’s Palace (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 Kesar Kyari Bagh (Amber) 206 Laghu Samrat Yantra (Jaipur) 196
Jogi Mahal (Ranthambhore) 228 Keshav Bhavan (Deeg Water Palace) Lahiri, Jhumpa 65
Jogmaya Temple (Mehrauli) 44, 117 168 Lahore Gate (Delhi) 32, 95, 98
Johari Bazaar (Agra) 155, 261 Keshi Ghat (Brindavan) 167 Lajpat Nagar (Delhi) 122
302 GENERAL INDEX
Radio 285 Rashivalaya Yantra (Jaipur) 197 Salar Masa-ud Ghazi’s maqbara
Radisson 232, 235 Rashtrapati Bhavan (Delhi) 68, 72, (Meerut) 146
Rafting 269 74, 76 Salim Mahal (Alwar) 210
Raga 55, 79 Raslila 34 Salim’s Paper (Sanganer) 261
Raga Todi 35 Ratan Textiles (Jaipur) 261 Sambar 24, 228
Ragamala 35, 36, 79 Rathors 183, 202, 219 Sambhar Salt Lake 218
Rahu 144 Raushan Chiragh-i-Dehlvi 112 Samode 216
Rai Pithora 52 Ravana 41, 44, 201 hotels 241
Rai Praveen Mahal (Orchha) 180 Ravindra Manch (Jaipur) 264, 265 Samode Bagh 216
Rail travel 288–9 Ravissant (Delhi) 122, 123 Samode Palace 32, 216, 236, 241
Rail Yatri Niwas 289 Ray, Satyajit 265 Samrat Yantra (Delhi) 81
Railways, construction of 61 Razia, Sultana 54 Samrat Yantra (Jaipur) 197
Rainfall chart 44 grave of 100 Samudragupta 51
Raisina Hill 65, 68, 72, 74 Red Fort (Delhi) 12, 32, 43, 69, 93, 96, Sanganer 15, 185, 194, 200, 208, 260
Raj 60–61 98–9 Sanganeri motifs 209
Raj Mahal Palace (Jaipur) 199 plan 99 Sangeet Natak Akademi (Delhi) 80
Raj Mandir (Jaipur) 265 Reinhardt, Walter 146, 156 Sanghi Jutharam Temple (Amber)
Raja ki Mandi (Agra) 156 Religions 21–2, 23, 26–7 207
Rajamal ka Talab (Jaipur) 187 gods and goddesses 28–9 Sanghiji Temple (Sanganer) 208
Rajasthali (Jaipur) 261 religious symbols 28 Sangin Burj (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
Rajasthan 183 Remembrance Day 108 Sangram Singh, Maharana 79
Rajasthan Polo Club 267, 269 Republic Day Parade 45, 64–5, 71, 75 Sanjay Talkies (Agra) 265
Rajasthan State Handloom Dev. Corp. Responsible tourism 275 Sanjhi craft 167
Ltd. (Jaipur) 261 Restaurants 242–57 Sannahit Sarovar (Kurukshetra) 144
Rajasthan State Road Transport 290, coffee shops 242 Sansad Bhavan (Delhi) 72, 74
291 eating Indian-style 277 Sansar Chand, Raja 37
Rajasthan Tourism (RTDC) 233, 235, Flavours of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Sanskrit 50
269, 273, 275 244–5 Sanskriti (Museum) 118
Rajbagh (Ranthambhore) 228 Flavours of the Tandoor 246–7 Santos, Father 157
Rajbagh Talao (Ranthambhore) 228 glossary of typical Indian food Santushti (Delhi) 10, 122
Rajendra Pol (Jaipur) 192 248–9 Sarai Kale Khan (Delhi) 290, 291
Rajgarh 212 prices and tipping 243 Sarai Rohilla Railway Station (Delhi)
Rajgarh Palace (Datia) 178 speciality restaurants 242 288, 289
Rajghat 101 vegetarian 243 Saraswati 28
Rajiv Chowk (Delhi) 80 Rewal, Raj 89 Sardhana 141, 143, 146
Rajon ki Baoli (Mehrauli) 115 Rickshaws 294–5 Sariska 213, 268
Rajpath (Delhi) 10, 12, 45, 65, 71, 72, The Ridge (Delhi) 103, 107, 108 hotels 241
74, 75 Rig Veda 48, 49 Sariska National Park 138, 210, 212,
Rajput art 53 Rishabhdeva 223 214–15
Rajput Bundela architecture 180 Rishikesh 141, 148, 149, 268, 269 Sariska Palace 214
Rajput dynasties 52–3 hotels 239 Saroj Handicrafts and Arts (Jaipur)
Rajput miniature paintings 36, 37, restaurants 253 261
198 River rafting 269 Sarojini Nagar (Delhi) 122
Rajwada Library Bar (Jaipur) 265 Riverine areas 25 Sarus crane 120, 172
Rajya Sabha 74 Road signs and road maps 293 Sas-Bahu ka Mandir (Gwalior) 178
Raksha Bandhan 43 Road travel 292–3 Sati Burj (Mathura) 165
Ram Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 265 Rock climbing 268 Sati sites 52
Ram Niwas Gardens (Jaipur) 198 Roe, Sir Thomas 222 Satpula 113
Ram Raja (Orchha) 180 Rohilla Fort (Saharanpur) 147 Sattais Katcheri (Amber) 206
Ram Singh II 190, 195, 198, 199, 203 Rolls Royce cars 170 Saurashtra Oriental Arts (Jaipur) 261
Ram Yantra (Delhi) 81 Roman Catholic Cemetery (Agra) 156 Savitri 220
Ram Yantra (Jaipur) 196 Roopangarh Fort 219 Savitri Temple (Pushkar) 220
Rama 29, 41, 44, 201 Roorkee 139, 142, 147 Sawai Jai Singh II 81, 138, 165, 186,
Ramadan (Ramzan) 41 Roshanara 154 187, 194, 195, 196, 198, 199, 200,
Ramakrishna Mission (Delhi) 233, 235 Round Table Conference 62 202, 203
Ramayana 41, 44, 51, 81, 201, 226 Roy, Jamini 75 Sawai Jai Singh Benevolent Trust 199
Rambagh (Agra) 162 Royal Trains 289 Sawai Madho Singh I 195
Rambagh Palace (Jaipur) 11, 199 Rudraman 50 Sawai Madhopur 226–7
Ramdas, Guru 178 Rules of the road 293 hotels 241
Ramganj Bazaar (Jaipur) 261 Russell, Robert Tor 80, 82 Sawai Man Singh Medical College
Ramgarh 201 (Jaipur) 279
Ramgarh Lake 269 S Sawai Pratap Singh 190, 195
Ramlila 34, 41 Sa’adi 210 Sawan Pavilion (Deeg Water Palace)
Ramnavami 40 Sabha Niwas (Jaipur) 193, 194, 195 168
Rana Sanga Roof Top Bar (Jaipur) 265 Safdarjung’s tomb (Delhi) 109 Sawant Singh, Raja 219
Randiyon ka Mahal (Bhangarh) 213 Safety 278–9 Sayyids 54, 55, 83
Rang Mahal (Red Fort) 99 Sagar (Amber) 207 Scindia Museum (Gwalior) 178
Rangaji Temple (Pushkar) 221 Saharanpur 147, 260 Scindias 151, 156, 157, 178
Rangila, Muhammad Shah 85 Sahdev 144, 213 Scott, Alfred 106
Ranthambhore 183 Sahitya Akademi (Delhi) 80 Scott, Ida 106
Ranthambhore Fort 228 St John’s College (Agra) 156 Scythians 47
Ranthambhore National Park 15, 226, St Stephen’s College (Delhi) 107 Secretariat Buildings (Delhi) 74
227, 228–9 St Thomas 27, 50 Self-drive 293
Rao, Narasimha 65 St Thomas’s Church (Saharanpur) 147 Senior travellers 274, 275
Rao Shekha 217 Sal tree (Shorea robusta) 24 Sepoys 59
306 GENERAL INDEX
Serindian collection (National Shops and markets (cont.) Sri Ranganathji (Brindavan) 166
Museum) 76 rights and refunds 259 Stanfords 292, 293
Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor 57, 93, shoes 261 State Bank of India (Delhi) 258
96, 98, 111, 139, 154, 155, 157, 158, tea and spices 261 State government-run buses 290
162, 195, 211, 223, 224, 226 textiles 261 State Museum (Bharatpur) 170
court 57 what to buy 262–3 State tourism departments 274
Shah Nazar Khan 156 Shree (Agra) 265 The Statesman 45
Shah Pir’s Maqbara (Meerut) 146 Shree Ganpati Arts (Jaipur) 261 Statue Circle (Jaipur) 199
Shahi chirag 155 Shri Ganesha (Ranthambhore) 227 Steakhouse (Delhi) 123
Shahjahanabad 57, 93, 96, 100, 111 Shri Ram Centre (Delhi) 124 Stein, Joseph Allen 89
Shahjahani Masjid (Ajmer) 224 Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra 44 Stein, Sir Aurel 76, 79
Shahji Temple (Brindavan) 167 Shyam Ahuja (Delhi) 122, 123 Serindian collection 76
Shahpur Jat (Delhi) 112, 122 Shyam ki Burj (Jaipur) 187 Steppe eagle 172
Shakti 52 Siberian crane 172 Stepwells 33, 80, 115, 206, 216
Shankar, Ravi 34 Sikandar Lodi 110, 113, 164 Stomach upsets 280
Shankaracharya 52 tomb of 83 Stone Age 48
Shankarlal Sangeet Sammelan Sikandra 14, 31, 164 Storks 172
(Delhi) 42 Sikar 217 Street food 243
Shanti Kunj Ashram (Rishikesh) 148 Sikhism 27 Student travellers 274, 275
Sharad 41 festivals 41 Sub-Himalayan region 24
Sharan Rani 79 Siliserh 212 Subhat Niwas (Jaigarh) 203
Shawls 122, 123 Siliserh Lake 212 Subramanyam, KG 75
Sheesh Gumbad 83 Silk Route (Chinese Turkistan) 51, 76, 79 Subz Burj 85
Sheesh Mahal (Agra Fort) 154 Silver Mountain (Jaipur) 261 Sufi 26, 55
Sheesh Mahal (Alwar) 210 Sind 51 Sufi dargah 144
Sheesh Mahal (Amber) 15, 204, 206 Sindhi Camp (Jaipur) 290, 291 Sufi qawwali 264
Sheesh Mahal (Rajgarh) 212 Singh, Gobind 27, 42 Sugar & Spice (Delhi) 83
Sheesh Mahal (Samode) 216, 236 Singh, Ishwari 188 Sukh Kanwar 194
Shekhawati 15, 33, 183, 267 Singh, Jagat 203 Sukh Niwas (Amber) 206
frescoes 216 Singh, Kishan 219 Sukhi Baoli (Mehrauli) 115
tour of 217 Singh, Maharaja Bakhtawar 210 Sulabh shauchalayas (public toilets)
Sher Mandal 88 Singh, VP 65 273
Sher Shah Gate (Lal Darwaza) 88 Singh Manmohan 65 Sultan Ghari (Delhi) 118
Sher Shah Sur 56, 87, 88, 101, 111, Singhania haveli (Fatehpur) 217 Sultan Mahal (Samode) 216
144, 164 Sireh Deori Bazaar (Jaipur) 190 Sultanate architecture 30
Sher Shah’s mosque 88 Siri 103, 110, 111 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 120, 268
Sheraton 232, 235 Siri Fort Auditorium (Delhi) 42, 43, Summer 42–3
Shergarh (Delhi) 88, 111 112, 124 Summer Theatre Festival (Delhi) 43
Shergarh Fort (Dholpur) 171 Siri Fort (Delhi) 55, 112 Sundar Horticulture Nursery (Delhi) 85
Shergill, Amitra 37, 75 Sisganj Gurudwara (Delhi) 94, 96 Sundar Nagar Market (Delhi) 85, 122
Shesh Nag 28 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh 200 Sunehra Makan (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
Shiha-bu’d-Din Ahmed Khan 89 Sita 41, 201 Sunehri Bagh (Delhi) 73
Shila Devi 204, 205 Sita World Tours (Delhi) 291 Sunehri Kothi (Tonk) 226
Shila Devi Temple (Amber) 15, 205, 206 Sivanand Ashram (Rishikesh) 148 Sunehri Masjid (Delhi) 94, 96
Shilpi Handicrafts (Sanganer) 261 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Nataraja Sungas 50
Shishir 40 Centre (Delhi) 268, 269 Sunshine chart 43
Shitala Ashtami 40 Skinner, James 105, 141, 144 Sur dynasty 141
Shitala Devi 40 Skinner’s Horse 105, 144 Sur Sadan (Agra) 264, 265
Shitla Mata 226 Slave dynasty 54 Suraj Bhavan (Deeg Water Palace) 169
Shiv Kumar Sharma 35 Sloth bear 229 Suraj Mal, Raja 167, 168, 170
Shiva 29, 40, 42, 76 Smog 280 Suraj Pol (Amber) 206
Shiva Temple (Moti Doongri, Jaipur) Smoking 277 Surajkund 121
198 Snacks 248 Surajkund Crafts Mela 45, 121
Shivalik Hills 141 Snake bird 172 Surajpal 121
Shivaratri 40, 45 Solani, River 147 Surana Jewellers (Jaipur) 261
Shivpuri 149 Soma Shop (Jaipur) 261 Survey of India 292, 293
Shoosmith, Arthur Gordon 108 Someshwar Temple (Bhangarh) 213 Surya Temple (Galta) 200
The Shop (Delhi) 122, 123 Sonagiri 179 Svarna Nagari Hall (Ajmer) 223
Shops and markets 258–61 South Africa 63 Swami Haridas 167
around Agra 260 South Delhi Swami Shraddhanand’s statue 96
around Jaipur 260 hotels 239 Swimming 266
bargaining 258, 277 restaurants 251 hotel pools 232
books 261 Spear, Percival 107
carpets and dhurries 261 Special interest tours 268 T
Delhi 122–3 Special needs, travellers with 274 Tabla 35
how to pay 258 Speciality shops, Delhi 123 Tadolini of Rome 146
jewellery 261 Spectator sports 266 Tagore, Abanindranath 75
marble inlay 261 SpiceJet 286, 287 Tagore, Rabindranath 37, 62, 75
Museums and Shopping in Delhi Spier, Private 108 Taj Ganj (Agra) 261
10–11 Sports and outdoor activities 266–9 Taj Group 232, 235
North of Delhi 260 Sri Aurobindo Ashram (Delhi) 233, Taj Mahal (Agra) 11, 14, 33, 57, 87,
opening hours 258 235, 269 139, 151, 158–61, 218
paintings and objets’d’art 261 Sri Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple Taj Mahotsav (Agra) 45, 264
paper 261 (Mathura) 165 Taklamakan Desert 76
pottery 261 Sri Ram Centre (Delhi) 80 Talab Shahi 171
GENERAL INDEX 307
Taliqi Darwaza (Delhi) 88 Train travel 288–9 Vijay Mandir Palace 211
Talkatora (Jaipur) 186, 187 Travel Corporation of India (TCI) 291 Vijay Sagar Lake 211
Talkatora Stadium (Delhi) 43 Travel information 286–95 Vijaya Dashami 41, 44
Tandoori food 246–7 Agra and Around 153 Vinay Singh 212
Tansen 167, 175, 178 air travel 286–7 Vindhya mountains 228
Tansen Festival 44 bus travel 290–91 Vintage Car Rally (Delhi) 45
Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 222 Delhi see Delhi City Map (inside Vipassana Sadhana Sansthan
Taragram 179 back cover) (Delhi) 268, 269
Tasbih Khana (Red Fort) 99 Jaipur and Environs 185 Virat, King 213
Taxes 277 local transport in cities 294–5 Viratnagar 213
hotels 234 North of Delhi 142 Visa 282
Taxila (Pakistan) 21 road travel 292–3 Visas 272, 275
Taxis 294 train travel 288–9 Vishnu 28, 29, 116, 222
to/from airport 287 Traveller’s cheques 283 Vishram Ghat (Mathura) 165
Teej (Jaipur) 43 Trees, Indian 24–5 Vishwa Yuvak Kendra (Delhi) 274, 275
Teen Murti (Delhi) 63, 82 Trekking 268, 269
Tekson’s Bookshop (Delhi) 123 Tripolia Bazaar (Jaipur) 188, 190 W
Telegraph Memorial (Delhi) 105 Tripolia Gate (Jaipur) 190 Waiting rooms, railway 289
Telephone services 284, 285 Triveni Ghat (Rishikesh) 148 Wajid Ali Shah 59
Television 285 Triveni Kala Sangam (Delhi) 80, 124, Water holes (Sariska
Teli ka Mandir (Gwalior) 30, 178 125, 268 National Park) 214
Temperature chart 45 Tropic of Capricorn 40 Water Palace (Deeg) 167, 168–9
Tempos 295 Tuberculosis 281 Water sports 269
Tendulkar, Sachin 65 Tughlaq dynasty 54, 141 Water-borne diseases 281
Tennis 266 Tughlaqabad 103, 111, 118–19 Weights and measures 275
Tetanus 281 Tughlaqabad Fort 118–19 Welcomgroup Rajputana Palace
Textiles 263 Tughra 222 Sheraton (Jaipur) 265
blockprinted 209 Tulsi (Delhi) 122, 123 Wetlands 25
National Museum (Delhi) 79 Turkish Sultana’s House (Fatehpur White ibis 172
shopping for 122, 123, 260, 261 Sikri) 174, 176 White-throated Kingfisher 173
Thana 59 Turkman Gate (Delhi) 93, 100 Wildlife 24–5
Thar Desert 24, 138, 183 Tushita Mahayana Meditation Centre Willingdon, Lady 83
Thar Inc. (Jaipur) 261 (Delhi) 268, 269 Willingdon, Lord 107
Theatre 34–5, 264–5 Typhoid 281 Willoughby, Captain 105
contemporary 35 Winter 44–5
Delhi 124, 125 U Wiring money 283
Theft 278 Ugrasen, Raja 80 Women travellers 274
Thomas, George 144, 146 Ugrasen ki Baoli (Delhi) 80 World Bank 65
Thomas Cook India 291 Ujjain 148 World Book Fair (Delhi) 89
Thomson Civil Engineering College UNESCO World Heritage Sites 151 World Cup (cricket) 266
(Roorkee) 147 Uniara Palace 227 World Expeditions India
Tibet House (Delhi) 123 Unnatansha Yantra (Jaipur) 196 (Delhi) 267, 269
Tibetan Buddhists 27 UP Handicrafts Complex (Agra) 261 World Trade Centre 89
Tickets Upanishads 26, 49, 141 World War I 72, 75, 82
airline 287 Urs World War II 62, 108
bus 291 Ajmer 41, 222, 224–5, 264 World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)
entertainment 124, 264 Delhi 42, 86 218, 268, 269
train 288 Usha Kiran Palace (Gwalior) 237, 240 World-Newspapers 285
Tie-and-dye (bandhini) 194, 260 Uttar Pradesh Tourism Department
Tiger 24, 214, 227, 229 290, 291 Y
Tikamgarh 180 Yagna Stambha 203
Tilak, BG 62 V Yamuna, River 24, 25, 88, 99, 111, 151,
Time Out Delhi 124 Vadehra Art Gallery (Delhi) 125 153, 154, 162, 165, 166
Time zone 274–5 Vajpayee, AB 65 Yashoda 166
The Times of India 285 Valley of Monkeys 200 Yellow Boys 105
Timetables, train 288 Vana Vihar Ram Sagar YMCA 233, 274, 275
Timur the Lame 55, 101 Wildlife Reserve 171 Yoga asana 268
Tipping 277 Varanasi 48, 49, 77 Youth hostels 233
in hotels 235 Varma, Raja Ravi 75 Youth Hostels Association of India
restaurants 243 Varsha 41 (YHAI) 274, 275
Toilets 273 Vasant 40 Yudhishthira 213
Tomar Dynasty 121 Vasant Panchami 40, 45 YWCA 44
Tongas 295 Vasantasena 51
Tonk 226 Ved Pal Sharma Banno (Jaipur) 261 Z
Tourist information 273 Ved Vyas 145 Zabita Khan’s Mosque
Tourist lodges 233 Vedas 26, 141 (Saharanpur) 147
Tourist offices 275 Vegetarian food 243, 248–9 Zafar Mahal (Mehrauli) 114
Tourist Village (Pushkar) 234, 235 Veroneo, Geronimo 157 Zakir Hussain 35
Tours Viceroys of India 60 Zakir Hussain College 100
Brajbhumi Driving Tour 166–7 house of, 71, 74 Zardozi 157, 260
River Tour along the Ganges 149 Victoria, Queen 60 Zenana (Amber Fort) 206
A Tour of Bundelkhand 179 Vidyadhar ka Bagh (near Jaipur) 200 Zinat Mahal (Delhi) 100
A Tour of Shekhawati 217 Vijay Chowk (Delhi) 18, 74 Zinat-ul-Masjid (Delhi) 101
Touts 259 street-by-street map 72–3 Zinat-un-Nisa Begum 101
hotels 234–5 Vijay Mandal (Delhi) 118 Zoroaster 27
308 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people Vijayan Kannampilly is a journalist and painter based in Delhi and
whose contributions and assistance have made the prepara- has a special interest in Indian design and contemporary art.
tion of this book possible.
Editorial and Design
Contributors Publisher Douglas Amrine
Anuradha Chaturvedi is a consultant on architectural Editorial Director Vivien Crump
conservation with the Indian National Trust for Art and Art Director Gillian Allan
Cultural Heritage (INTACH). Senior Managing Editor Louise Bostock Lang
Production Marie Ingledew
Dharmendar Kanwar is a well-known travel writer based in
Jaipur. She has published several books on the architecture Map Coordinator David Pugh.
and culture of the region.
Revisions & Relaunch Team
Partho Datta teaches Indian history at a college in Delhi Ashwin Raju Adimari, Parnika Bagla, Shruti Bahl, Ipshita Barua,
University. He is interested in modern urban studies on which Imogen Corke, Dipika Dasgupta, Nick Edwards, Aditya Katyal,
he has written several papers. Jasneet Kaur, Sumita Khatwani, Kirit Kiran, Hayley Maher,
Sushmita Malaviya, Kiran Mohan, Vandana Mohindra, Casper
Premola Ghose is a gifted writer and illustrator of children’s Morris, Preeti Morris, Nandini Mehta, Janice Erica Pariat, Lucy
books. She is the Programme Officer at the India International Richards, Ellen Root, Tara Sharma, Beverly Smart, Anna
Centre, New Delhi. Streiffert, Avantika Sukhia, Priyanka Thakur, Stuti Tiwari,
Deepika Verma, Tanveer Zaidi.
Ranjana Sengupta is a journalist and author of books on
Ajanta and contemporary Indian society. She is currently Cartography Assistance
writing a book on Delhi after 1947. Kishorchand Naorem, Shivanand.
Proof Reader Abha Kapoor.
Subhadra Sengupta is a freelance journalist based in Delhi Fact Checking Ranee Sahney
who writes on travel and tourism for several Indian Indexer Bibhu Mohapatra.
newspapers and magazines. Additional Contributors
Consultants Anirudh Goswami, Rani Kalra, Ira Pande, Ranee Sahaney.
Ajai Shankar is a senior civil servant with the Government of
Additional Illustrations
India and is the Director-General of the Archaeological Survey
Aniket Vardhan, Arun P, Mugdha Sethi.
of India (ASI).
Additional Photography
Aman Nath has written extensively on the crafts and Ashwin Raju Adimari, Idris Ahmed, Ipshita Barua, Benu Joshi,
architecture of Rajasthan. He is involved in the restoration of Rajnish Kashyap, Aditya Katyal, Mathew Kurien, Anand
heritage properties in this region. Naorem, Mugdha Sethi, Anal Shah.
Daljeet Kaur is the curator of the Indian miniature paintings DTP Designers
section in the National Museum, New Delhi and has written Shailesh Sharma, Jessica Subramanian,.
several books and articles on this subject.
Special Assistance
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the regional and
Ebba Koch has travelled extensively in the sub-continent and
local tourist offices in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur for their valuable
is an internationally acknowledged expert on the art and
help. Particular thanks also to: Ajai Shankar, ASI, New Delhi;
architecture of the Indo-Islamic and Mughal periods.
Dr Daljeet, National Museum, New Delhi; Malaynil Singh, TCI;
Delhi School of Planning and Architecture; Siraj Qureshi and
Giles Tillotson is Senior Lecturer in South Asian Art at SOAS
RVI Singh in Agra
(University of London), and the author of books on
architecture in India during the Mughal, Rajput and British Photography Permissions
periods. Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for their
kind permission to photograph their products: Preeti Paul.
Jyotindra Jain is the founder-director of the Crafts Museum, New The publishers would also like to thank the following for
Delhi, and has authored several books on Indian crafts. permission to photograph at their establishments: Biotique,
New Delhi; City Palace Museum, Jaipur; Crafts Museum, New
Kishore Singh is one of India’s leading travel writers and is Delhi; Gem Palace, Jaipur; Mathura Museum, Mathura;
with the Business Standard in Delhi. He has written several Maulana Abul Kalam Azad Arabic & Persian Research Institute,
books on Rajasthan. Tonk; The Next Shop, New Delhi; Ogaan, New Delhi.
Kumkum Roy is an Associate Professor of Ancient History at
the Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi. She writes for Picture Credits
several prestigious academic journals. a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre; f = far;
l = left; r = right; t = top.
Martand Singh is one of the country’s best-known experts on The publishers are grateful to the following individuals,
textiles. He is based in Delhi and is a founding member of the picture libraries and companies, for permission to reproduce
Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH). their photographs:
Narayani Gupta is a Professor of Modern Indian History at
Jamia Millia Islamia in New Delhi. Her book on the history of Alamy Images: Danita Delimont/Walter Bibikow 195tr,
Delhi is widely regarded as an authoritative text. dbimages 65tc, 270-271, Dinodia Photos 170tr, Alexei Fateev
RV Smith is a journalist who writes on the history and legends 14b,Stuart Forster 274tl, Anil Ghawana 242cl, Cris Haigh 285tl,
of Delhi. His column, “Quaint Corner”, has been a regular imageBROKER 243br, Martin Lindsay 151b, Alan Moore 294ca;
feature in The Statesman for over 25 years. David Pearson 253br; Purepix 2-3, Jan Wlodarczyk 15cl.
Satish Grover heads the Department of Architecture at the
School of Planning and Architecture, Delhi. He has written Baluchi: 257tr. B.R. British Library, London: 47b.
three seminal books on the history of Indian architecture. Bobby Kohli: 58 & 59c, 59b, 60 & 61c, 61tr.
Dean K Brown: 82t.
Sunil Kumar is an Associate Professor in Medieval Indian
History at Delhi University. He has a special interest in the Chopra Films: 213b.
Sultanate period and is currently writing a book on the subject. Claridges: 233bl.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 309
Corbis: Danny Lehman 12bl, epa/David Clifford 44cl, Frederic Lonely Planet Images: Andrew Bain 10br; Patrick Horton
Soltan 185cra; Spaces Images / Bryan Mullennix 14tr. Crafts 122bl.
Museum, New Delhi, Pankaj Shah: 90tc, 91cr, 91bc, 91br. National Museum, New Delhi: 48t/cl/bl, 49b, 50c, 50cb, 50 &
Surya Deogun: 80br, 89cr, 100b, 105cr, 258bl, 265tr. 51c, 51b, 54t, 55t/bl, 57tr, 76tl/tr/ca/cl/bl/br, 145br, 171b; JC
Diggi Palace: 256br. DK Classic Asian Cook Book: 248tc/ Arora: 47t, 58bl, 59bl, 68b, 78tl/tr, 79t; RC Dutta Gupta: 33t,
crb. DK Picture Library: Rowan Greenwood Collection 48cla/clb/br, 48 & 49c, 49tlc/cl/cr, 50b, 51tr/cl, 52t/b, 56t, 58t,
11br. DN Dube: 56bl/b, 57cr, 79bc, 174tr, 175t, 176tr/c. 78b, 79c/br. National School of Drama: 35br. Neemrana
Dreamstime.com: Antonella865 92; Boonsom 154tr; Palace Hotels: 52ca, 53tr, 234b, 243t.
Jorg Hackemann 126; Milosk50 150; Dmitry Rukhlenko
102; Sergeychernov 15br. Oberoi Amarvilas: 254tl.
The Oberoi Group of Hotels: 234t. Otto Pfister: 172t/bl,
Fotomedia Picture Library: 33tr, 56tc, 58clb, 59tr, 60cb, 109b, 173t/c, 215c, 264t.
124c (4 pics), 289bl; Aditya Arya: 289br; Akhil Bakshi: 25t, 26bcr,
32br/b, 33b, 36clb, 199b, 283t, 288t/b/bl; Amar Talwar: 64cl, P. Roy: 191cr/cb. Peacock: John Eiberger 256tl. Photolibrary:
176b, 245clb, 263b, 290t; Amita Prashar Gupta: 260b; Ashim Gtw Gtw 194 cl; Imagebroker.net/Gtw Gtw 194br, 194cl.
Ghosh: 25bl, 26bcl, 54b, 62cb, 177b, 272b, 274b, 277t, 295t; Photoshot: VWPics / Lucas Vallecillos 20. Avinash Pasricha:
Ashish Chandola: 172b; Ashish Khokar: 277c, 291t; Ashok 32cla/clb, 32 & 33c, 124b, 286c, 287t.Press Information
Dilwali: 154b, 174tl, 176tl; Ashok Kaul: 65tl, 219b; Bimla Verma: Bureau: 62 & 63c, 63cr.
24tl, 26t, 27cr, 53bl, 97b, 145bl, 167b, 262br/bcr; BN Khazanchi:
40c, 41br; BPS Walia: 147br, 264c; Christine Pemberton: 19c,
44cl; Dharmendar Kanwar: 260t; E Hanumantha Rao: 22tl/clb/ Radisson Blu Agra: 254br. Rick’s Bar: 125tr. Robert Harding
bc, 215trc, 229cb/b; François Gautier: 25b; J Saha: 24b; Jatinder Picture Library: Gavin Hellier 182; John Wilson 193crb.
Singh: 24tr; Jitendra Singh: 26bc; Joanna van Gruisen: 22cra/b/ Satish Sharma: 26 & 27c, 27tl/tc/b, 38bl, 35tl.
bl, 23cra/bl, 52cb, 65ca, 214b, 228cl; M Balan: 37bcl, 173b; Manu Taj Hotels: 232cr, 235tr, 238br, 240tl, 241br, 250br, 251tr,
Bahuguna: 43b, 75b, 95b, 236br, 267t; Marie D’ Souza: 37cr, 255br, 257bc.
184t, 263br; Mathew Titus: 27br; Mohit Satyanand: 268b; MS The Imperial: 230-231, 239tr.
Oberoi: 26br, 248t; Nagaraja: 215t; Neeraj Mishra: 22cla; Nihal Teen Murti Memorial Library: 60bl/br, 61b, 62ca, 63tc/bl/br,
Mathur: 228tr; NP Singh: 36b, 188bl; NPS Jhalla: 262bc; NS 64cb. Textile Art Society: Benoy K Behl 37tc. Theatre and
Chawla: 31c; Pallava Bagla: 22tr, 23tl/tr/tc/trc, 42t, 214tl; Pankaj Television Associates: Tulsi: Hemant Mehta 263tl.
Sekhsaria: 173trc; Pradeep Das Gupta: 249tc; Pradeep Mandhani: Courtesy of the Board of Trustees of the V & A Museum:
65t; Prakash Israni: 21tl, 26cl, 41b, 167tlc, 177bl, 268t; Prem 56cl/ca/cb.
Kapoor: 41c, 42b, 50t, 64tl, 64 & 65c, 65br; Raj Salhotra: 36cla; www.nicopix.com / © Nicolas Chorier: 66-67
Ravi Kaimal: 21c; RK Wadhwa: 27cra; RS Chundawat: 22crb,
120b, 214tr, 215b; S Nayak: 172c; S Venugopal: 145c; Sanjay
Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of
Saxena: 36cl, 149c, 189b; Sanjeev Saith: 141b, 269t/b; Sanjiv
the following copyright holders:
Misra: 45t; Shalini Saran: 24c, 32tr, 34cl, 36 & 37c, 41t, 42c, 50br,
53tl, 54 & 55c, 56br, 57br, 58br, 61tl, 67 77t/b, 111b, 118t,156tl, © National Gallery of Modern Art, New Delhi: 34 & 35 (all
157b, 177tl, 178b, 220tl; SK Panda: 23cla; Subhash Bhargava: pictures except 34cl).
21b, 27ca, 40t/b, 43c/bl, 54cb, 58cla, 62t, 148b, 168t/cl/b, Special Assistance in Photography
169ca/b, 188t, 196c/bl, 204b, 229t, 232c, 248c, 262cr, 267c/b, Ajai Shankar, Director-General, Archaeological Survey of India,
268tr; Sudhir Kasliwal: 52c, 191t/b/bl/cl, 199t, 262tr/trc; Tarun
New Delhi; Aman Nath; Anjali Sen, Director, National Gallery
Chopra: 53br; Thakur Dalip Singh: 37bc; Toby Sinclair: 22br,
of Modern Art, New Delhi; Aruna Dhir, The Oberoi Hotel, New
23crb/clb, 37bl, 214cb, 228tl/c/b, 229ca, 264b; TS Satyan: 23br,
80c, 145t, 201b, 232t, 246b (2pics), 249b; V Muthuraman: 245cb; Delhi; Dr Daljeet Kaur, National Museum, New Delhi; JC
Grover, National Museum, New Delhi; Jyotindra Jain, Crafts
Frazer & Haws, New Delhi: 122c. Fredrik & Laurence Museum, New Delhi; OP Jain, Sanskriti Museum; Dr RD
Arvidsson: 18, 93t; Ganesh Saili: 105b. Chowdhouri, Director-General, National Museum, New Delhi.
Getty Images: AFP 35bc; Daniel Berehulak 266cr; India Today Front endpaper: Left: Dreamstime.com: Milosk50 br; Getty
Group 266bl; JTB Photo 140; Lonely Planet Images 136-137; Images: JTB Photo tr; Robert Harding Picture Library: Gavin
David Levenson 65crb; Mail Today 242br; Henry Wilson: Hellier cl.
216t,236c. Right: Idris Ahmed br; Dreamstime.com: Antonella865 tr,
Dmitry Rukhlenko tc; DK Images: Ashwin Raju Adimari clb
Hotel Pushkar Palace: 236clb.
Idris Ahmed: 10tr, 173crb, 221tr, 258bl. Indian Accent: 252tr. Map cover – 4Corners: SIME/Marco Pavan.
ITC Hotel Ltd. Welcomgroup: 232bl, 233c. Front Jacket and Spine – Alamy Images: Stock Connection
Blue c. DK Images: Dinesh Khanna bl.
Kainoosh: 252bl.
Kaleva: 255tr. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders,
Kamal Sahai: 49tr/cla, 51tl. and we apologize for any unintentional omissions. We would
Rajnish Kashyap: 15tl. be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgments in all
Laxmi Vilas Palace: 237cr. subsequent editions of this publication.
Further Reading
Architecture Indian Painting Randhawa, M.S. Myths and Symbols in Indian Art
Delhi and its Neighbourhood and Galbraith, J.K., Vakils, Feffer and Civilization Zimmer, H., Harper
Sharma, Y.D., Archaeological Survey & Simon Limited, Bombay 1982. and Brothers, New York 1962.
of India, Delhi 1982. Masterpieces from the National Symbols in Art and Religion Werner, K.
Delhi, the City of Monuments Museum Collection (ed.), Motilal Banarsidass Publishers
Dube, D.N. and Gupta, S.P., National Museum, Pvt. Ltd., Delhi 1991.
Ramanathan, J., Timeless New Delhi 1985. The History of India Dodwell, H. H. (ed.),
Books, New Delhi 1997. Paradise as a Garden Moynihan, 6 vols, Cambridge University Press,
Fatehpur Sikri Brand, M. and E.B., George Braziller Inc., Cambridge 1934.
Lowry, G.D. (eds.), Marg New York 1979. The Great Moghuls
Publications, Mumbai 1987. The Arts of India Birdwood, Gascoigne, B., Dorset Press,
Indian Architecture Brown, G.C.M., Nanda Book Service, London 1971.
P., (2 vols), D.B. Taraporevala Sons & Delhi 1997. The Wonder that was India Basham,
Co. Pvt. Ltd., Bombay 1964. The Golden Calm Kaye, M.M. (ed.), A.L., Rupa and Co.,
Mughal Architecture Koch, E., Webb & Bower, Exeter 1980. New Delhi 1966.
PRESTEL-Verlag, Munich 1991. The Painted Walls of Shekhawati
Mughal India Tillotson, G.H.R., Nath, A. and Wacziarg F., Croom Nature and Wildlife
Penguin, London 1991. & Helm, London 1982. Bharatpur: Bird Paradise Ewans, M.,
Sacred Architecture Pereira, J., The Splendour of Mathura Art Lustre Press, New Delhi 1992.
Islamic Books & Books, and Museum Sharma, R.C., DK Book of Indian Animals Prater, W.,
New Delhi 1994. Printworld (P) Ltd., New Delhi 1994. Bombay Natural History Society,
Stones of Empire Morris, J., Bombay 1948.
Oxford University Press, Fiction Book of Indian Birds Ali, S.,
Oxford 1983. A Passage to India Forster, E. M., Bombay Natural History Society,
Taj Mahal: The Illumined Penguin, London 1924. Bombay 1941.
Tomb Begley, W.E., Aga A Suitable Boy Seth, V., Viking, The Garden of Life Patnaik, N.,
Khan Program for Islamic New Delhi 1993. Doubleday, New York 1993.
Architecture, Massachussetts 1989. City of Djinns Dalrymple, W., Flamingo, In Danger Manfredi, P., Ranthambhore
The Architecture of India Grover, S., London 1994. Foundation, New Delhi 1997.
(2 vols), Vikas Publishing The Raj Quartet Scott, P., Heinemann, Indian Wildlife Israel S. and
House Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi 1981. London 1976. Sinclair T. (eds.), APA Publications,
Train to Pakistan Singh, K., Ravi Dayal Singapore 1989.
The Forts of India Fass, V., Collins,
Publisher, Delhi 1988. Nature Watch Singh, K. and Basu, S.,
London 1986.
Lustre Press, New Delhi 1990.
The History of Architecture in India
History Birds of India Grewal, B., Local Colour,
Tadgell, C., Phaidon, London 1990.
A History of India (Vol 2), Spear, P., Hong Kong 2000.
The Palaces of India Fass, V. and
Penguin, London 1956. Tigers: The Secret Life Thapar, V., Elm
Maharaja of Baroda, Collins,
A Princess Remembers Gayatri Devi, Tree Books, London 1989.
London 1980.
The Penguin Guide to the Monuments Rupa and Co., New Delhi 1995.
of India (Vol 2) Davies, P., Viking, Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan
London 1989. Tod, J., Oxford University Press,
Oxford 1920.
Culture and Crafts Delhi Between Two Empires
A Second Paradise Patnaik, N., Sidgwick Gupta, N., Oxford University
and Jackson Ltd., London, 1985. Press, Delhi 1981.
Catalogue of the Crafts Museum New Delhi and its Monuments Spear, P.,
Delhi 1982. Gupta N. and Sykes, L., Oxford
Curry and Bugles Brennan, J., Penguin, University Press, New Delhi 1994.
London 1992. Freedom at Midnight Lapierre, D.
Dance of the Peacock Bala Krishnan, U. and Collins, L., Vikas Publishing
and Kumar, M.S., India Book House, House Pvt. Ltd., Delhi 1976.
Mumbai 1999. India Britannica Moorhouse, G.,
The Essence of Indian Art Goswamy, B. Paladin Books, London 1984.
N., Mapin International, San Indian Mythology Ions, V., Paul
Francisco 1986. Hamlyn, London 1967.
Hanklyn-Janklin Hankin, N., Banyan Jaipur Nath, A., India Book House,
Books, Delhi 1992. Mumbai 1993.
Indian Art Dehejia, V., Phaidon, Lives of the Indian Princes Allen, C.
London 1997. and Dwivedi, S. London 1985.
GLOSSARY 311
Glossary
Architecture phad: painted cloth scroll from Mahabharata: famous Hindu epic
ashram: hermitage Rajasthan (see p53) (see p145)
bagh: garden pichhwai: cloth painting depicting namaaz: ritual prayers of Muslims
bangaldar: curved roof Krishna lore pir: Muslim saint (see p86)
derived from Bengali hut (see p32) qawwali: style of devotional Sufi puja: ritual prayer (see p28)
baradari: pavilion with 12 pillars music (see p34) Ramayana: epic on the
(see p200) raga: melodic structure with a fixed legend of Lord Rama
basti: settlement sequence of musical notes (see p34) samadhi: memorial platform over
charbagh: quadripartite garden rasa: mood; essence (see p35) site of cremation (see p101)
(see p33) sati: practice of self-immolation
shahtoosh: a fine shawl, now
dharamshala: charitable rest house by a widow on her husband’s
banned, that can pass through a
for pilgrims funeral pyre
ring. It is woven from the down of
ghar: house, crypt (see p118) Shaivite: followers of Shiva
the endangered chiru antelope.
gali: lane tirthankara: Jain prophet
tala: rhythmic cycle of
jaali: carved lattice work on stone Upanishads: philosophical texts
varying beats (see p34)
screens (see p31) regarded as sacred scripture, dating
thal-posh: dish cover (see p195)
katra: side lane (see p93) to the later Vedic age (see p26)
khirkee: window
Dress Vaishnavite: followers of Vishnu
kotla: a citadel or fortified area
Vedas: texts codifying Aryan beliefs
within a city burqa: concealing cloak worn by
and principles, these were orally
kund: pool, tank (see p121) some Muslim women
transmitted until transcribed
mahal: palace chador: ceremonial pall of cloth or
into Sanskrit as the Rig Veda,
mardana: men’s quarters in flowers placed over a Muslim tomb
Sama Veda, Yajur Veda and
a palace (see p86)
Atharva Veda (see p26)
maqbara: burial-palace, mausoleum, dhoti: unstitched garment of Hindu
yagna: vedic rite
sepulchre (see p146) men which covers the lower half of
masjid: mosque the body
Miscellaneous
mehmankhana: guesthouse gota: gold or silver frill
badal: cloud (see p186)
minar: freestanding tower jootis: slippers (see p190)
bahi khatha: cloth bound
minaret: tower in mosque khadi: hand-woven, hand-spun
account book (see p190)
for calling the faithful to prayer cloth popularized by Gandhi
charpoy: string cot
pol: gate (see p192) (see pp62–3)
chowkidar: watchman
toshakhana: state treasury lehenga: flounced skirt (see p34)
Doctrine of Lapse: this gave the
(see p194) mukut: crown (see p190)
British the right to take direct
zenana: women’s quarters zari: gold thread
control of princely states that
in a palace
did not have an undisputed
Religion heir (see p60)
Craft and Culture aarti: ritual of Hindu worship
bandhini: tie-and-dye haat: open-air market
ahimsa: non-violence ikka: pony trap (see p195)
(see p90)
amrit: sacred nectar of the gods jheel: shallow lake
dholak: drum (see p101)
(see p29) katar: two-sided blade
Dhrupad: style of North Indian
Balaji: one of Hanuman’s many loo: hot westerly wind that blows
classical music (see p34)
names in North India (see p201) over North India from April to June
ganjifa: set of playing cards
bhajan: devotional song (see p32) machan: look-out post
(see p145)
gharana: school of classical music Chishtiyas: followers of the mohur: Mughal gold coin
or dance (see p34) 12th-century Sufi saint, nawab: a Muslim prince
ikat: tie-and-dye yarn woven Moinuddin Chishti (see p86) pachisi: a ludo-like dice
in a pattern dharma: duty, calling (see p145) game (see p175)
katha: epic tale (see p35) kalasha: urn (see p119) Raj: the period of British rule in
matka: earthenware pot lila: divine sport (see p167) India (see pp60–61)
mela: fair, fête linga: phallic emblem of Satyagraha: a form of moral protest
patachitra: painted scroll with Lord Shiva (see p90) started by Gandhi (see pp62–3)
mythological tales (see p145) madrasa: Islamic theological college thakur: Hindu chieftain
312 PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book
Hindi is the national language of India and even though rather), most feminine nouns end with –i (as in thin),
it is not the mother tongue of a major proportion of the while all plural nouns end in –e (as in hen). Verb
population, it is spoken widely in this region. All nouns endings also differ if it is a man or woman speaking.
are either masculine or feminine and the adjective agrees In the present tense, a man ends his verbs with –a,
with the noun. Most masculine nouns end with –aa (as in a woman ends hers with –i.