Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ESTONIA, LATVIA
& LITHUANIA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ESTONIA, LATVIA
& LITHUANIA
Contents
How to Use
this Guide 6
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Design Managers Sunita Gahir, Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Alka Thakur Introducing
Project Designer Rajnish Kashyap
Editors Jyoti Kumari, Ipshita Nandi Estonia, Latvia
Designers Namrata Adhwaryu, Anchal Kaushal
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya and Lithuania
Cartographers Mohammad Hassan, Jasneet Kaur
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Assistant Picture Researcher Shweta Andrews
Senior Dtp Designer Vinod Harish
Dtp Designer Azeem Siddiqui
Contributors
Howard Jarvis, John Oates, Tim Ochser, Neil Taylor
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Linda Whitwam Door knocker, Tallinn
Illustrators
Chinglemba Chingtham, Sanjeev Kumar, Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Suman Saha, Discovering Estonia,
Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner, Chapel Design & Marketing Ltd
Latvia and Lithuania 10
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 2009 Putting Estonia, Latvia

17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 and Lithunia
Published in the United States by on the Map 18
DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017 A Portrait of Estonia,

Copyright © 2009, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above,
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
The Climate of Estonia,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of Estonia,
ISSN 1542-1554 Latvia and Lithuania 34
ISBN 978-1-4654-6033-2
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral in Karosta,

Front cover main image: The colourful rooftops of Rīga in Latvia near Liepāja, Latvia
Striking onion domes of St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral, Latvia
Estonia Region by
Region
Estonia at
a Glance 46
A Portrait of Estonia 48
Estonia Through Picturesque Island Castle at Trakai, Lithuania

the Year 52
Lithuania Region Entertainment 344
The History of Estonia 54 by Region
Outdoor Activities and
Tallinn 58 Lithuania Specialist Holidays 356
at a Glance 206
Western Estonia 88
A Portrait of
Eastern Estonia 106 Lithuania 208
Lithuania Through
the Year 212
The History of
Lithuania 214 Amber jewellery, sold in souvenir shops all
over the Baltic region
Vilnius 220
Survival Guide
Central Lithuania 252
Practical Information 364
Western Lithuania 272
Statue of King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden,
Tartu, Estonia Travel Information 376
Travellers’ Needs
Latvia Region Where to Stay 292 General Index 394
by Region
Where to Eat and
Acknowledgments 408
Latvia at Drink 308
a Glance 130
Shopping 332 Phrase Book 411
A Portrait of
Latvia 132
Latvia Through
the Year 136
The History of Latvia 138
Rīga 142
Western Latvia 166
Eastern Latvia 186

The spectacular Vilnius Cathedral, Lithuania
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from a history and descriptions of important
visit to the Baltic States, providing detailed sights using visuals and maps. Information
prac tical information and expert recom- about hotels, restaurants, shops and
mendations. Introducing Estonia, Latvia and markets, entertainment and sports is
Lithuania maps the three countries, sets them found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival
in their historical and cultural context, and Guide has tips on everything from
describes events throughout the year. Each making a telephone call to using
country has its own chapter, with a portrait, local transport.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A Helsinki,
St Petersburg
P U T T I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A O N T H E M A P 19
Putting Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania on the Map
Mariehamn,
Stockholm
Kapellskar Tallinn
Tapa
Rakvere
Sillamäe
Jõhvi
Narva
Chudovo Lithuania on the Map
Luga
Slantsy
With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski
the south, the Baltic States lie on the southeastern shore of

the Baltic Sea. The region is bordered in the east by Russia and
in the south by Poland, Belarus and the Russian enclave of Kärdla
Vormsi
Island
Riisipere
Paide
Lake Plyussa
Veliky Novgorod
The orientation map shows the
Kaliningrad. The Baltic States’ total land area is 173,000 sq km
(66,778 sq miles). Latvia and Lithuania are of roughly equal
size, while Estonia is about a third smaller and has a relatively
Hiiumaa
Island
Muhu
Haapsalu
Lihula
E S T O N I A
Pe i p s i
Strugi Krasnye
Zapolye
Shimsk
location of the Baltic States in
flat terrain in comparison to the other two countries. The Island Tartu
three capital cities – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – are home
to around a third of the region’s 6.3 million people. Saaremaa
Island
Pärnu
Viljandi
Lake
Vortsjärv relation to their neighbouring
R U S S I A
Porkhov
countries. In this book, each

Kuressaare
Kihnu Pskov
Island Otepää Võru
Dedovichi
Gulf of Rīga Valga
Stockholm
Valmiera
Alūksne Ostrov
Chikhachevo
country is divided into three main

Bezhanitsy
Ventspils
Cape Kolka
Cēsis
Smiltene
Gulbene
Pytalovo
sightseeing areas that are covered
Gauja
L A T V I A
in a full chapter. These areas are
Talsi Sigulda
Opochka
Nynashamn, Rīga Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Tukums Jūrmala
Travemunde
Sabile Ogre Ludza Pustoshka
highlighted on other maps

Kuldīga
Da
ug Rēzekne
Key ava
Pāvilosta Jelgava
Motorway Baltic Jēkabpils
Saldus Dobele
Major road Sea Nevel
throughout the book.

Preiļi
Minor road Liepāja
Railway line Biržai
Joniškis
International border
Mažeikiai Krāslava
Rokiškis Daugavpils BELARUS
Telšiai Šiauliai
Travemunde
Europe
Palanga Plungė Panevėžys
Utena
Karlshamn,
Kiel Klaipėda Gargždai L I T H U A N I A SWEDEN
FINLAND
Raseiniai Ukmergė NORWAY

0 kilometres 50 Molėtai
0 miles 50 N Šilutė ESTONIA

RUSSIA
em
Curonian
North
un
Spit Tauragė Jonava LATVIA

Sea
as
Nynäshamn DENMARK LITHUANIA

Jurbarkas Kaišiadorys
Kaunas Vilnius UNITED

KINGDOM
NETH.
GE RM ANY
P OL AND
BELARUS
A locator map shows the
Kaliningrad Vilkaviškis BELGIUM
country in relation to other

CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Marijampolė
KALININGRAD Alytus F RANCE AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA
SWITZ.
(RUSSIA)
European countries.
Lebork CROATIA ROMANIA
Nemunas
Varėna SERBIA
Gdańsk ITALY
Lazdijai BULGARIA
Elblag
P O L A N D SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida
For keys to symbols see back flap
Estonia, Latvia and

Lithuania Region L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 187
by Region
Each country has been
1 Introduction
The landscape, history
and character of each
EASTERN LATVIA
The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as
rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
divided into three regions region are described

the terrain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two
extensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of
these have well-developed tourist facilities, while others
with a map at the start of here, including an

remain isolated and untouched.
When the German crusaders arrived, best-known writers and musicians. Today
the section. The key to the account of how they

they found the Livs and Lettgallians
inhabiting the region which now forms
Vidzeme is second only to Rīga as a
travel destination, with the Gauja
Vidzeme, while Latgallians and Selians National Park combining natural beauty
symbols is on the back flap. have changed over the lived further east in what is now Latgale. and historical attractions.
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled
west and east of Vidzeme, while central by Poland until 1772. The Polish
centuries and what Vidzeme and most of Latgale was

claimed by the Livonian Order. After the
collapse of the Livonian Order in 1561
influence fostered a strong Catholic
tradition, particularly evident in the
pilgrimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was
they have to offer to the whole of the east fell under

Lithuanian, and later Polish, rule.
The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in
later absorbed directly into the Russian
Empire, unlike other Latvian regions
which were ruled as separate provinces.
the visitor today. 1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia

and Vidzeme. The Russians conquered
Vidzeme in 1721. Reliant economically
This isolation from the rest of the country
means that it has long been neglected
as a predominantly Russian backwater.
on agriculture, forestry and wood Despite this, its villages and serene lakes
Sights at a Glance lists the 188 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N processing, the region is sometimes E A S T charm
claimed as the cradle of Latvian culture
E R N Lvisitors the
A T V I Aand 1 8 regional
9 capital,
Daugavpils, is slowly shaking off its
chapter’s sights by category, such Exploring Eastern Latvia

as it produced many of the country’s image as a grey Soviet throwback.
Getting Around
The highlights of Gauja National Park are easily reached
as Churches and Cathedrals, The most popular tourist attraction in Eastern Latvia is Gauja
National Park, which combines beautiful forests with attractions
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
such as the historic town of Cēsis and the restored Turaida Castle.
Towns, Resorts and Villages and A significant part of the region is covered by the North Vidzeme
Biosphere Reserve, famous for its coastal meadows, sandstone
Unguriņi
that run several times a day. The public transport
network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
cliffs and extensive wetlands. The route from Rīga to when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
Islands and National Parks. Daugavpils, the regional capital, runs along the
Daugava Valley and includes several worthwhile Pe
d ele
Tartu
towns, but services are not very frequent.
MAZSALACA Valka
stops, while the cathedral at Aglona is a major AINAŽI a Staicele
ac Pskov
da
centre for Catholic pilgrimage. For most visitors, Lake Turna S e

l
Sa
Burtnieks Rencēni
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its Zabolova
SALACGRĪVA Vilzēni e
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and m
ze
Drieliņi Vijciems
Lubāns, the two largest in the country. G a uja Lāzbergi
Gaujiena
id Abul
Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
V
s
VALMIERA Vireši Liepna
Smiltene G
Sights at a Glance LIMBAŽI
sa
Umurga
au
l Kuprava
Pa Jaunanna
ja
Jelgavkrasti Mālumuiža
o Rēzekne
AL
Towns, Resorts and Villages GULBENE– Viļaka

a Ludza ALŪKSNE
N
2 Valmiera DUNTE Old houses RAILWAY Kubuliin history

and tower in Cēsis, a town steeped
O
s Vecpiebalga Vidriži Ūdrupe Balvi

Rauna
RK I
3 Ainaži
A AT
Skulte Cēsis
d Alūksne
ze
TuraidaGulbene
pe
4 Salacgrīva Castle among the trees of Gauja National Park

N
Peded
Inciems Čilipīne
Balu
5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI JA P uj

a
Tirza Medņi
U Taurene Ga
6 Limbaži 9 Ikšķile GA Baltinava
2 Regional Map 7 Dunte ja Ostrov

w Koknese G au Sigulda
Gauja VECPIEBALGA
8 Saulkrasti f Gulbene–Alūksne Vangaži Skujene Lake
Nītaure Inesis Grebņeva
0 Lielvārde Railway Ogre Bērzpils
Kuja
Lautere Lubāna
q Skrīveri
This map shows the

Ķīšezers Iča
Lī
Mālpils
ču
Ropaži Mergupe Ērgļi

e Jēkabpils National Park Madona Goliševa
pe
Lake Žogotas
Lubāns
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga
Ķeipene
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93 Bērzaune Lazdona Dricāni Aizpūre
Rēze
Zaļmežnieki
Malt
road network and gives y Krāslava

Ogre
Irši Lake
kne
a
Tour
L AT G
u Aglona IKŠĶILE Cirma

Lake Istalsna
i Preiļi p Latgale Lakes p202 Dau
LIELVĀRDE
Odzes
s te LUDZA
gav
a iek Grozas
Brigi
v Viļāni RĒZEKNE
an overview of the
Ai Ņukši
AL
KOKNESE Atašiene
SKRĪVERI Kūkas
E
Troškas Čornaja
LA
Taurkaene
JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši
topography of the entire

K
Nagļi
Riebiņi L a Malta S Rāzna
E
Lake D
Piksteres Birži aug
av
tg Čerņavski
Viesīte a LĪVĀNI PREIĻI a Puša Lake
le
Du
Ežezers
region. All the sights are

Viesīte Aglonas
bn
Rušons Bērziņi
Zalve Stacija
a
Ērberğe Jersika
Slate Kapiņi Dagda
AGLONA
Nereta Aknīste
Asūne
numbered and there are

Špoği
Kalupe
Dviete
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
also useful tips on getting Key

Svente
DAUGAVPILS
Daugava Piedruja
Motorway Silene
around by car, bus and train. Main road

Secondary road Utena
Demene
Minor road 0 kilometres 20
Railway 0 miles 20
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–303 and pp324–5 For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
234 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION VILNIUS 235
Street-by-Street: Town Hall Šv Kazimiero

Street
Square to the Gates of Dawn A narrow
3 Street-by-Street Map cobblestone street

Lithuania’s distinctive Baroque architecture, known as Vilnius named after St
Casimir snakes
Baroque, can be admired in the outstanding monuments around the back of
clustered around the Gates of Dawn and the Church of St
This gives a bird’s-eye Casimir. The enchanting collection of towers and sculptures
was created during the 17th and 18th centuries by Italian and
the church towards
Užupis, with its
jumble of roofs.
Locator Map
Polish architects and their Polish-Lithuanian noble patrons. See Street Finder Map pp250–51
view of interesting and The buildings are elegantly designed with symmetrical
façades, reflecting an unmistakable Italian influence.
Nonetheless, the mystical atmosphere, so unique to Vilnius,
f. Church of St Casimir
This church was the city’s
museum of atheism from 1963 Church of the
important parts of each distinguishes the area from any other European city. to 1991. The crown symbolizes
St Casimir’s royal lineage.
Holy Spirit
sightseeing area. The
VĖ
j . Church of St Theresa
AT
Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered
G
numbering of the sights
M
for her mystical writings, adorn the
D
U
vaulted nave of the church. The
AU
IA
frescoes were painted in the late
KŠOS GAT VĖ
18th century following a fire.
A
D
ties in with the area map

ID
B
ŽI
SU
OJ
I
GA
T V
s Town Hall Ė
and the fuller description With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.
AUŠROS VAR TŲ GAT V
Ė
of the entries on the pages
Ė
T V
that follow.
GA
A
R
K
L
VĖ
NŲ
Ių
RŪDN
AT
Ų G G
EČI A
JO
VOKI T
V
Ė
LI
INKų
ZI
BA
GA
V T
Ė
Key
A suggested route takes in some of Suggested route

Basilian Gate
the fascinating and attractive streets in d Contemporary Art Centre

is a Soviet-era venue for
the area. Vokiečių Street
One of the city’s
groundbreaking modern art.
oldest, Vokiečių Street

resembles a park
during the summer k. Gates of Dawn
months, with its Basilian Monastery A site of pilgrimage, this gateway
outdoor cafés and a 0 metres 100
The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a to the Old Town protects a silver-
pleasant central tree- prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet covered painting of the Virgin Mary,
lined walkway. 0 yards 100 Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. said to have miraculous powers.
For hotels and restaurants see pp304–305 and pp326–8
Numbers refer to each

sight’s position on the Coloured tabs refer to the
area map and its place in regions. The same tab is used
the chapter. for pages relating to a Stars indicate the sights that no
particular region. visitor should miss.
92
1
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Paldiski
Road Map C1. * 4,000. £
@ 145 from Tallinn. ∑ paldiski.ee
Deriving its name from the

On the east coast, the
promenade is another fine
legacy of the town’s imperial
glory days. From Africa Beach
the promenade winds its way
Tchaikovsky in Haapsalu
Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich
Tchaikovsky and his brothers
Anatoly and Modest spent the
WESTERN ESTONIA 93
4 Detailed Information
All the major cities, towns and
tourist attractions are described
Estonian pronunciation of past the spa hall at Kuursaal and summer of 1867 in Haapsalu. Living
in a small house on Suur-Mere
individually. They are listed in an

baltiyskiy, which means “Baltic” leads to the Museum of Coastal
in Russian, Paldiski was Swedes, which traces the Street, the 27-year-old Pyotr
worked on The Voyevoda, his first
established by Peter the Great in history of the Swedes.
opera and one of his major compo-
1718. Paldiski was known to be sitions. Tchaikovsky Bench on the
of strategic importance for the
Russian Empire. In 1962, when
the Soviet Navy nuclear sub-
marine training centre was set
E Museum of Coastal Swedes
Sadama 31/32. Tel 473 7165.
Open 11am–4pm Tue–Sat. &
∑ aiboland.ee
promenade commemorates his
stay and, at the press of a button,
blares out a part of the Sixth
Symphony, thought to have been Tchaikovsky Bench on the
order that follows the numbering
up here, the area already had
two nuclear reactors and
employed some 16,000 people.
Haapsalu’s medieval castle, with an adjoining cathedral
Environs 2 Haapsalu
inspired by an Estonian folk song. promenade in Haapsalu
on the area map at the start
The Soviets finally withdrew in Pakri, a stunning peninsula
Road Map C2. * 12,000. @ from
the island and its beautiful 4 Matsalu National
1994 and the town quickly fell
into chronic disrepair. The
Swedish director Lukas
3 km (2 miles) west of Paldiski,
boasts Estonia’s tallest light-
house. Also here are the ruins of
Tallinn. g from Hiiumaa, Vormsi.
n Karja 15, 473 3248. _ Early Music
Festival (4–8 Jul), White Lady Days
landscapes make it perfect for
hiking and cycling. The island
is well known for its lush
Park
Matsalu rahvuspark of the section.
Moodysson shot his Peter the Great’s ambitious but pine forests and an abundance Road Map C2. n Matsalu Nature
(Aug). ∑ haapsalu.ee
extraordinarily bleak film unfinished fortress project. of juniper bushes, as well as Centre, Penijõe Manor; 472 4236.
Lilya-4-Ever (2002) in Paldiski, Situated on a small spit of land spectacular stretches of Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun. 8 ∑ matsalu.ee
though it was described as an jutting out into a narrow bay, rocky coastline.
unnamed “former republic of the popular resort town of Some people believe that
the Soviet Union” in the film. Haapsalu dates back to the 13th Vormsi means “Snakes Island”, as Situated around the narrow
Located 52 km (32 miles) century. Its impressive Bishop’s the name derives from the old Matsalu Bay, Matsalu National
west of Tallinn, Paldiski is a Castle ruins still serve as the Swedish word for snake. Others, Park was founded in 1957 as a
fascinating place to visit main focal point for the town, however, claim that it was sanctuary for nesting and
and it attracts a steady stream despite the fact that its named after a pirate called Orm. migratory birds. The area is a
of tourists. The countless formidable fortifications were Picturesque houses in one of the villages on Either way, Vormsi Island was bird-watcher’s paradise, with
derelict military buildings largely dismantled by Peter the Vormsi Island home to some 2,000 Swedes some 275 species found in its
testify to the prominent role Great in the 18th century. The prior to World War II, and their coastal wetlands. Six obser-
Paldiski once played in the castle watchtower houses the 3 Vormsi Island influence can be seen all over vation towers dotted along the
Soviet defence system. Today, Castle Museum, displaying the island. coast offer the chance to see
Road Map C1. * 350. @ from
however, the town is slowly medieval weaponry. The Haapsalu. g from Rohuküla, 10 km
The island’s main settlement the fauna and birdlife up
but surely being revitalized. adjoining Dome Cathedral is (6 miles) W of Haapsalu. ∑ vormsi.ee is Hullo, 3 km (2 miles) west of close. Viewing platforms
The port area is booming and the largest single-nave church the ferry port at Sviby. The overlook some of the islets
Paldiski’s natural beauty makes in the Baltic region. Estonia’s fourth-largest island, 14th-century St Olav’s Church and coastal meadows. Most
it an attractive site for The red-painted lighthouse at Pakri, Over the course of the 19th Vormsi is only 10 km (6 miles) by is especially worth visiting for its of the observation towers are
residential development. near Paldiski century, Haapsalu became a 20 km (12 miles) in size. The Baroque pulpit and a cemetery reached by car or bus,
fashionable holiday resort, island is ruggedly beautiful and with a striking collection of although Penijõe tower, on the
famed for its curative mud blissfully unspoiled despite circular Swedish crosses bank of the Penijõe river, is a
Estonia’s Swedish Community
treatments and pretty beaches. being only 3 km (2 miles) looming out of hand-made short walk from the Matsalu
Swedish settlers in Estonia were first mentioned in 1294 in Haapsalu’s Its landmark 216-m (709-ft) long from the mainland. The size of mounds of grass. Nature Centre.
town records. It is generally thought that Swedes settled along
the western coastal areas in the 13th and 14th centuries to secure
trade routes. From 1561 to 1700 Estonia was directly under Swedish
train platform is an enduring
monument to the era when
Russian royalty and high society
The visitors’ checklist gives all the
rule. By the early 20th century, there were some 8,000 Swedish-
speaking Estonians, most of
whom lived on Vormsi Island and
flocked to the town every
summer. The platform was built
in 1904 to receive Tsar Nicholas
practical information needed to
in the Haapsalu region. The
Estonian-Swedes were a
recognized minority with their
own periodical and distinct
II and his entourage, and its
ornate wooden canopy was
designed to protect them from
plan your visit.
cultural identity. However, the bad weather. The station closed
majority of them fled to Sweden in 1995 and the building now
during World War II. It is estimated houses the Estonian Railway
that some 2,000 Estonian-Swedes Museum with models of
remained behind, but life in the engines used between the late
Soviet Union soon effaced their 19th and early 20th centuries.
Swedish circular crosses in St Olav’s way of life and they effectively Paralepa Beach, just to the
Church cemetery, Hullo disappeared as a minority. west of the station, is Haapsalu’s
228 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION VILNIUS 229
most popular bathing spot. The Matsalu Bay islet, part of the idyllic Matsalu National Park
8 Vilnius Cathedral High Altar
The marvellously
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika intricate tabernacle door
Practical Information
on the High Altar, which
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
was created in the 1620s,
Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251, Vilnius Tel 85261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
is fashioned from gold
daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th century. and silver. Two biblical
to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius, brought scenes, the Last Supper
souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
and Christ Washing the
the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque Vilnius, his northern entrance for timings
Disciples’ Feet, are
idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being a visual and prices. =
beautifully depicted on
re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was closed by the panel.
Story boxes provide the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use as a garage
for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened as a picture Valavičius Chapel
Members of the Valavičius family
gallery. It was eventually returned to the Catholic Church in
information about his- 1989 and reconsecrated a year before

independence was declared.
were governors and bishops of
Vilnius. Their lavish chapel was
created in the early 17th century.
torical or cultural topics

relating to the sights.
Stucco Sculpture
A sculpture depicting a . St Casimir’s Chapel
Practical information provides bird sacrifice can be

seen on the
tympanum of
Italian masters created this
superb chapel, one of the major
Baroque jewels of Vilnius, from
the façade. 1623 to 1636. Its main highlights
everything you need to know to visit are the marble columns,
magnificent stucco figures and
colourful frescoes.
each sight. Map references pinpoint

the sight’s location on the road map
St Casimir (1458–84)
on the inside back cover. For the three Casimir was the second
son of a Grand Duke,
whose siblings became
capital cities, map references relate to The entrance is
via a huge
Classical portico.
kings and queens of
European states
through lineage and
the Street Finder maps. marriage. Pious Casimir

shunned the luxuries of
court life and would
often go to the cathedral to
pray. When he died of
tuberculosis aged 25, it was
Wall Painting of the rumoured that his coffin
Crucifixion could cure disease. A fresco
The oldest surviving fresco Statue of Luke, the Evangelist . Crypt in St Casimir’s Chapel shows
in Lithuania, dating from Of the statues of the Four A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of two how a sick orphan, who
the 14th century, can be Evangelists on the southern façade, Grand Dukes and two wives of Sigismund prayed beneath the coffin, Richly decorated altar of
found in the crypt. It was Luke appears with a bull, which is a Augustus (r.1548–72), the last descendant of was miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
discovered in 1925. symbol of service and sacrifice. Gediminas (r.1316–41).
5 Major Sights
Historic buildings are dissected to
reveal their interiors.
INTRODUCING
ESTONIA, LATVIA
AND LITHUANIA
Discovering Estonia, Latvia

and Lithuania 10–17
Lithuania on the Map 18–19
A Portrait of Estonia, Latvia
Climate of Estonia, Latvia
The History of Estonia, Latvia
10 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
DISCOVERING ESTONIA,
LATVIA AND LITHUANIA
The following itineraries have been begins with a two-day tour of the country’s
designed to take in as many of the Baltic distinctive and characterful capital city,
States’ highlights as possible, covering the followed by 12 days exploring the rest of
beautiful and diverse landscapes of each the country. Pick, combine and follow your
country, while keeping long-distance travel favourite tours, or simply dip in and out
to a minimum. Each of the three itineraries and be inspired.
Tallinn
Kärdla
Kõpu
Haapsalu
Hiiumaa Island
Sõru
Muhu Island
Angla
Saaremaa Island
Vilsandi Kaali Meteor

Crater Pärnu
National Park
Kõpu Lighthouse, Estonia Kuressaare
One of the world’s oldest functioning lighthouses, this
beacon, built in 1531 and reinforced in the 1980s, shines Sõrve
Peninsula
from the western end of ruggedly beautiful Hiiumaa Island.
Gulf
0 kilometres 80 of Riga
Ventspils
0 miles 80
Sigulda
Riga
Pavilosta
Jaunpils
Castle
14 Days in Estonia
Jelgava
Liepāja
•
Admire the meticulously Rundāle
restored buildings of Palace
Tallinn’s Old Town.
•
Visit the historic windmills, Hill of Crosses
Palanga
thatched barns and inns Šiauliai
at the Estonian Open- Klaipėda
Air Museum. Curonian Spit
•
Relish the unspoiled nature
National Park LITHUANIA
on sparsely populated Nida
Hiiumaa Island.
•
Marvel at a meteor’s impact Kaunas
at the Kaali Crater on Pažaislis Monastery
Saaremaa Island. Rumšiškes
Trakai
•
Spend a day boating on Island
Castle
Lake Võrtsjärv.
•
Don a hard hat and head Key
deep under the ground at
14 Days in Estonia
the Kohtla Underground
Mining Museum. 14 Days in Latvia Druskininkai
14 Days in Lithuania
A View of Tallinn with Hattorpe Tower by Alexander Georg Schlater (1834–79)

D I S C O V E R I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 11
14 Days in Latvia
•
Immerse yourself in the •
Look out for bears
warren of narrow streets and elk in Gauja
in Rīga’s Old Town. National Park.
•
Appreciate the •
Explore the picturesque
marvellous Art Nouveau waters of the Latgale
architecture of Rīga’s Lakes region.
Quiet Centre. •
Visit the stunning
•
Relax on the windswept 18th-century Rundāle
beaches of Latvia’s Palace, one of the finest
western coast. in the Baltic States.
Lahemaa
National Park
Ontika Rīga’s Art Nouveau Architecture, Latvia
Coast
Palmse
Sillamäe The Quiet Centre in Rīga has the finest
Narva collection of Art Nouveau buildings in
Kohtla Underground
Mining Museum Europe, including this elaborate edifice
designed by Mikhail Eisenstein in 1905.
ESTONIA Mustvee
Raja
Lake
Peipsi
14 Days in Lithuania
Tartu
Rannu •
Lose yourself in the
Lake Kiidjärve-
Võrtsjärv Taevaskoja Area
labyrinthine streets of
Vilnius’s Old Town.
•
Investigate the quirky cafés
and galleries of Vilnius’s
artists’ republic of Užupis.
•
Step back in time at Trakai
Cēsis
Island Castle and then drift
Līgatne
past it in a pedalo.
•
Enjoy a day of being pamper-
ed and pummelled in the
L AT V I A Lake
Lubāns spa resort of Druskininkai.
Ludza
•
Discover unspoilt nature at
Rēzekne Aukštaitija National Park.
Jēkabpils
Lake
•
Stand atop the shifting
Aglona Ežezers sands of the Curonian
Spit’s giant dunes.
Daugavpils
Aukštaitija
National Park
Ignalina
Vilnius
Trakai Island Castle, Lithuania

During the 15th century, this castle
was the impenetrable stronghold of
the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Today
its picturesque reconstruction is the
country’s biggest tourist draw.
12 INTRODUCING ESTONIA
largest island. Sparsely populated

14 Days in Estonia Hiiumaa (pp94–5) is a delight
for nature lovers with its pine
•
Airports Arrive and depart forests and deserted beaches.
from Tallinn Airport. The small town of Kärdla makes
•
Transport This tour can be a good base from which to
made using Estonia’s bus explore the island. Be sure to
and rail network, but head to Kõpu, where you can
hiring a car would allow visit one of the world’s oldest
more flexibility. functioning lighthouses.
To extend your trip…

Day 1 Tallinn Spend an extra day on
Morning The best starting Hiiumaa Island visiting
point for a first visit to Tallinn is Suuremõisa Manor and
the picturesque Old Town the tiny island of Kassari
where a visit to the Tallinn City (pp94–5).
Museum (p67) provides a
fascinating overview of the Viru Gate, marking the entrance to Tallinn’s
city’s history. Wander down Old Town Day 5 Saaremaa Island
bustling Viru Street, past the The picturesque Saaremaa
colourful façades of historic northeast of Tallinn to see the Island (pp96–9) can be reached
buildings towards the impressive lovely Botanical Gardens (p84). by a short ferry trip from Sõru
Gothic Town Hall (p64). Take a lift up to the TV Tower’s on the southern tip of Hiiumaa
Niguliste Church (p66), another viewing platform (p84) for Island. Visit the iconic five
Gothic masterpiece, is nearby. unbeatable city views. wooden windmills of Angla
(p98) close to the port of Leisi,
Afternoon The fortified walls of Day 3 Haapsalu and stop by the tiny Karja
Toompea (pp72–3) enclose a Dominated by the imposing Church (p99) to admire its
warren of intriguing buildings ruins of its 13th-century castle, elaborate stone carvings, then
dating back to the 13th century. Haapsalu (p92) is a pleasant travel west along the coast to
Pay a visit to Toompea Castle seaside resort. Worthwhile the unspoiled Vilsandi
(p74), now home to Estonia’s attractions include the Castle National Park (p99).
Parliament, and the impressive Museum in the ruins’
Russian Orthodox Alexander watchtower, the attached Day 6 Kuressaare on
Nevsky Cathedral (p74). Don’t Dome Cathedral and the Saaremaa Island
miss the splendid views over Estonian Railway Museum Spend a pleasant day in and
the Old Town and out to the where the town’s grand 216 m around Kuressaare (p98),
harbour from Patkuli Viewing (708 ft) railway platform, built to Saaremaa’s attractive main
Platform (p73). receive Tsar Nicholas II in 1904, town. The spectacular Bishop’s
has been preserved. Castle, dating back to the
Day 2 Tallinn 14th century, is a must-see as is
Morning Enjoy a stroll through Day 4 Hiiumaa Island the main street of delightful old
Kadriorg Park (pp78–9), Tallinn’s From the port of Rohuküla, 9 km buildings. For an afternoon
most popular green space. The (6 miles) east of Haapsalu, take excursion, either travel down
park was originally laid out for the ferry to Estonia’s second the Sõrve Peninsula (p96) to
Peter the Great with his grand
summer residence, Kadriorg
Palace (p80), at its heart. Pop
into Peter the Great House
Museum (p81), a tiny cottage
where the Tsar lived while the
palace was being built, and allow
time for a visit to the Estonian
Art Museum’s main collection,
housed within the futuristic
Kumu Art Museum (p80).
Afternoon Choose to either

visit the Estonian Open-Air
Museum (p85) with its
remarkable collection of
historic rural buildings from
all over Estonia, or head to the The well-preserved medieval Bishop’s Castle in Kuressaare on Saaremaa Island
For practical information on travelling around Estonia, see pp376–81
Saaremaa’s magnificent wind-

swept southern tip, or visit the
intriguing Kaali Meteor Crater
(p98), 15 km (9 miles) to the
northeast of town.
Day 7 Pärnu
Return to the mainland via
Muhu Island and head for
Pärnu (pp102–103), Estonia’s
summer capital and most
popular seaside resort.
Attractions include a lovely
7 km (4 mile) sandy beach,
historic Old Town buildings
and several peaceful parks.
Boulders along the coastline of Käsmu peninsula in Lahemaa National Park
Day 8 Tartu
There’s plenty to see in Estonia’s picturesque Kiidjärve- constructed during the Soviet
vibrant college town, Tartu Taevaskoja Recreational Area era along with a uranium mine
(pp118–21), home to the is a wonderful spot for picnics (closed in 1991), for the Soviet
venerable Tartu University and hiking. It’s home to nuclear programme. Today its
and around 20,000 students. Kiidjärve Watermill (p126) and ornate Stalinist-era buildings are
The 14th-century St John’s the stunning Taevaskoja an intriguing sight.
Church has a fascinating interior Sandstone Cliffs (p126), which
containing terracotta figures and tower over the Ahja river. Day 13 Along the north coast
the Tartu Art Museum houses The limestone cliffs of the
a fine collection of Estonian art Day 10 Lake Võrtsjärv Ontika Coast (p115), just west
in a leaning building. The KGB For a day of boating, sun- of Sillamäe, are a magnificent
Cells Museum sheds a grim bathing and swimming, head sight and well worth visiting for
light on the activities of the west to Lake Võrtsjärv (p122), the views across the Gulf of
Soviet agency and the suffering Estonia’s second-largest lake. Finland alone. Spend the
of many Estonians under the Stop at the visitor centre in afternoon at the Kohtla
regime. Toomemägi (Cathedral Rannu to organize boat hire or Underground Mining
Hill) (pp120–21) features pretty book a tour of the lake aboard Museum (p115) for a fascinating
historic buildings amidst a historic wooden sailing guided tour deep within the oil-
parkland and a warren of boat (kalepurjekas). shale mine before continuing to
narrow streets. Palmse within Lahemaa
Day 11 North to Narva National Park (pp110–14).
From Tartu, travel north to the
historic border town of Narva Day 14 Lahemaa National
(p116), breaking the three-hour Park
journey on the shores of Lake The grand manor houses at
Peipsi (p127), which straddles Palmse (p112) and Sagadi
the border with Russia. At over (p113) both provide an intrigu-
3,500 sq km (1,350 sq miles), it’s ing glimpse of 18th-century
Europe’s fifth largest lake. Aim aristocratic life. From Palmse
for lakeshore villages Mustvee consider a trip to the tiny
and Raja (p127), where Old coastal village of Võsu (p112)
Believers still follow traditional or head to pretty Käsmu
ways of life. Mustvee’s small village (p112). If time allows
museum offers an illuminating visit the fishing village of Altja
glimpse into the history and (p113) to see its traditional
daily lives of the community. thatched-roof houses before
returning to Tallinn.
Day 12 Narva and Sillamäe
The renovated medieval cathedral, now a The sheer-sided castle, the To extend your trip…
library, in the Toomemägi area, Tartu museum in the castle’s tall white Spend a day hiking or hire a
tower and the neighbouring bicycle to tour the Käsmu
Day 9 Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja riverside park are the highlights peninsula (p114), exploring
Recreational Area of the border city of Narva (see the striking outcrop of giant
In the Põlva region, 50 km p116), where 96 per cent of the boulders and historic
(31 miles) south of Tartu and population speaks Russian. Käsmu village (p112).
perfect for a day trip, the Nearby Sillamäe (p115) was
14 I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
14 Days in Latvia
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Rīga Airport.
•
Transport This tour can be
made using Latvia’s bus and
rail network, but hiring a car
would allow more flexibility.
Day 1 Rīga
Morning Start the day with a
visit to the Old Town, Rīga’s
ancient heart. The city lost
many of its splendid historic The wonderfully reconstructed buildings of Town Hall Square, Rīga
buildings during World War II,
but a large number have been contemporary historical historic buildings and sculpture
meticulously restored in recent perspective head for the nearby park at Turaida Museum
years. The area around Town Museum of the Barricades of Reserve (p192) are also worth
Hall Square (see pp150–51) is 1991 (p146), which documents visiting and are just a few
dominated by the mighty the Latvian people’s overthrow kilometres from Sigulda.
St Peter’s Church (p153), of Communist rule.
and many of the area’s other Day 4 Gauja National Park –
magnificent buildings, including Day 2 Rīga Līgatne and Cēsis
Mentzendorff House (p152) Morning Choose either to From Sigulda, travel northeast
and the Town Hall, have explore the UNESCO-listed Art to Līgatne and the Līgatne
been returned to their former Nouveau architecture of Rīga’s Education and Recreation
glory. The immense Soviet- Quiet Centre (pp156–7) or Centre (p193). This delightful
era Modernist slab of concrete travel to Dauderi (p160), the wooded nature park is home
which normally houses the stately Neo-Gothic mansion to brown bears, beavers, elk,
Museum of the Occupation once used as the presidential lynx and European bison and
of Latvia (p152), currently summer residence, and now can be explored either on foot
closed for renovation, is housing a rather eclectic or by car. Continue northeast
generally considered an eyesore. museum on local history. to lovely Cēsis (p192), one of
Neighbouring Mežaparks Latvia’s oldest towns, where
Afternoon After lunching at (p160) is a residential district the narrow streets are lined
one of the Old Town’s many of lovely Modernist and Art with 18th and 19th-century
outdoor restaurants, enter the Nouveau homes popular with wooden and stone houses.
cool interior of the 13th-century well-to-do Latvians.
Dome Cathedral (p146), the To extend your trip…
largest place of worship in the Afternoon Don’t miss the Rent a canoe and spend a
Baltics, before continuing to the Latvian Ethnographic Open- day or two paddling along
Museum of Rīga’s History and Air Museum (p163), a vast the Gauja river. You can
Navigation (p146) at the rear of expanse of woodland on the arrange boat hire and
the cathedral. For a more shores of Lake Jugla dotted with transport through a river-trip
thatched homesteads, churches, specialist (p359 and p361).
windmills and other traditional
structures from all over the coun-
try – they provide a wonderful Day 5 On to Ventspils
insight into Latvia’s rural history. Head back to Rīga before
continuing west to the historic
Day 3 Gauja National Park – coastal town of Ventspils
Around Sigulda (pp180–81), where pleasant
Sigulda (p192) lies 50 km cafés, parks and a white sandy
(31 miles) northeast of Rīga and beach await.
makes a great base for explor-
ing the forested wilderness of Day 6 Ventspils
Gauja National Park (pp190– Despite its long heritage as a
93). Named after the river that trading centre and member of
wends its way through the the Hanseatic League, Ventspils
park’s sandstone hills, it’s a was little more than a tanker
Ventspils Castle, a 14th-century Livonian wonderful place to hike and the port for much of the Soviet era
Order stronghold in the resort of Ventspils trails are very well marked. The and has only recently become
For practical information on travelling around Latvia, see pp382–7
the country’s most popular Day 9 Jelgava

seaside destination. The 13th- From Liepāja, take the highway
century Ventspils Castle is northeast and branch off to
one of the main attractions, Jelgava (p170), pausing along
along with the town’s attractive the way to admire the turreted
Russian and Lutheran churches, Jaunpils Castle (p174), an
and the lovely Blue Flag beach. impressive 14th-century affair
The Seaside Open-Air with a small museum and its
Museum, with its fishermen’s own hotel (p301). Despite losing
cottages, smokehouses and much of its architectural heri-
even a narrow-gauge railway, tage during World War I and
is also worth a visit. World War II, Jelgava still has a
number of attractions. Chief
Day 7 Pavilosta among them are the elegant
Reached by a windswept 18th-century Jelgava Palace
coastal road from Ventspils that and the Orthodox Cathedral
affords the occasional glimpse of St Simeon and St Anna in The ruins of Rēzekne Castle in Rēzekne, the
of the sea, Pavilosta (p183) is a the Old Town. centre of the Latgale region
remarkably laid-back port town
with a splendid marina and Day 10 Rundāle Palace Fortress is definitely worth
miles of pristine sandy beaches Head to stunning Rundāle exploring, particularly as the
popular with wind and kite Palace (pp172–3), a Baroque Mark Rothko Art Centre is
surfers throughout the summer. building with Rococo interiors now housed in its arsenal.
that is one of the finest palaces
To extend your trip… in the Baltics. It’s an easy day- Day 12 Aglona
Experience life on the waves trip from Jelgava, or stop there Moving on from Daugavpils,
by joining a fishing trip or in the morning before driving head northeast to Rēzekne
taking a sailing lesson at on to Daugavpils, four hours (p199) stopping at Aglona
Pavilosta Marina (see p183). away. To get to Daugavpils from (p199) along the way. While
Jelgava by public transport, Aglona itself is unremarkable,
you’ll need to travel via Rīga. it’s home to the towering
Day 8 Liepāja Aglona Basilica; as Latvia’s
The coastal road continues Day 11 Daugavpils most important Catholic
through woodland towards Located in Latvia’s southeastern shrine, it attracts worshippers
Liepāja (pp184–5), Latvia’s vibrant corner, Daugavpils (pp200–201) from all across Russia and the
third city. With both cultural is the country’s second largest Baltic States.
attractions and a fantastic stretch city. It was founded by Ivan
of beach, there’s plenty to the Terrible in the 16th century Day 13 Rēzekne and the
engage visitors here. The main and, with 90 per cent of the Latgale Lakes
street, Lielā iela, is dominated by population speaking Russian, it Having been pulverized to
the 18th-century Holy Trinity retains a distinctly Russian feel. rubble during World War II,
Church, which has superb Among its attractions is the Rēzekne has few buildings of
views from its tower. To the onion-domed Cathedral of historic interest, but it makes a
southwest the well-tended Saints Boris and Glebe, Latvia’s good base for exploring the
Seaside Park runs parallel to largest Russian Orthodox cathe- more than 80 bodies of water
the town’s Blue Flag beach. dral. The extensive Daugavpils that make up the picturesque
Latgale Lakes (p202). Lake
Lubāns, the largest, is great for
bird-watching and fishing.
Southeast of Rēzekne, Lake
Ežezers is considered one of
the most beautiful, with many
islands to explore by boat. To
the east of Rēzekne, the pretty
town of Ludza (p203), with its
many wooden houses, sits
between two lakes.
Day 14 Rēzekne to Rīga

Break the four-hour journey
back to Rīga at Jēkabpils (p198),
where a fine Orthodox church
and an open-air ethnographic
Picturesque Jaunpils Castle, built in the 14th-century and subsequently reconstructed museum are the main sights.
16 INTRODUCING LITHUANIA
Afternoon Explore the many

14 Days in Lithuania grand buildings and court-
yards that comprise Vilnius
•
Airports Arrive and depart University (p226) before
from Vilnius Airport. strolling along Pilies Street.
•
Transport This tour can be Lined with historic churches
made using Lithuania’s bus and houses, the street is the Old
and rail network, but hiring a Town’s main thoroughfare. Look
car would allow you much out for St John’s Church (p226)
more flexibility. and the Church of St Paraskeva
(p227) before reaching the grand
Church of St Casimir (p236),
Day 1 Vilnius Old Town Vilnius’s oldest Baroque church.
Morning The characterful Exit the Old Town through the
buildings and winding streets Gates of Dawn (p239), pausing
of Vilnius’s marvellous Old Town to view the miracle-working
have changed little in the past icon, The Madonna of Mercy,
several hundred years. Though within its chapel, which attracts The Town Hall in Kaunas, known locally as
the city was founded in the pilgrims from all over Lithuania the White Swan
11th century, much of Vilnius’s and Poland.
current architectural heritage Day 3 Trakai Island Castle
dates back to the late 18th Day 2 Vilnius Lying just 25 km (16 miles)
century, when a series of fires Morning The Old Town boasts west of Vilnius, Trakai Island
consumed many of its wooden a number of excellent muse- Castle (pp256–7) is an easy
structures and stone houses ums, including two that cover day-trip from Vilnius but can
were built to replace them. tragic events in moving detail: also make an enjoyable
A tour of the Old Town should the KGB Museum (p242) reveals overnight stop. Occupying one
start with its centrepiece – the the Soviet reign of terror and of Lake Galvė’s many islands,
stunning, temple-like Vilnius includes the basement prison the heavily fortified medieval
Cathedral (pp228–9), which cells of the KGB building; and castle is Lithuania’s best-known
stands on the site of an early the Holocaust Museum (p242) monument and once rivalled
pagan shrine. Behind is the covers life in the Jewish Vilnius for power. In summer
Royal Palace, part of the Lower ghettoes and the horror that yachts and peddle boats are
Castle (p230), home to Lithu- befell the community during available for hire.
ania’s Grand Dukes for four World War II.
centuries. The original Renais- Day 4 Kaunas
sance palace was demolished in Afternoon Either visit the self- With its well-preserved Old
1801; the existing building is a declared artists’ republic of Town, leafy parks and laid-
reconstruction opened in 2009. Užupis (p244), a fascinating back pavement cafés, Kaunas
Perched on a hill above is the last quarter of cafés and indepen- (pp262–5) makes for an
remaining tower of the Upper dent galleries, or head west to enjoyable stay. Old Town
Castle (p230), with fantastic the pleasant Žvėrynas district highlights include the pretty
views of the city. The Lithuanian (p245), with its wooden villas, 16th-century Old Town Hall
National Museum’s (p230) lovely park and wonderful (p262), the ruins of Kaunas
absorbing collection is a short views from the nearby TV Castle (p262) and the Gothic
walk from the Upper Castle. Tower (p245). Cathedral of Sts Peter and
Paul (p263). To learn more
about the city’s past, visit
the Vytautus the Great
War Museum (p264). The
nearby Devils Museum
(p264) is worth seeing for its
quirky collection of sculptures
and carvings of devils and
witches from all around
the world.
Day 5 Around Kaunas

An easy day-trip from Kaunas,
the Baroque Pažaislis
Monastery (p265), founded in
the 17th century, can be visited
on the way to the Rumšiškės
The remains of Vilnius’s Upper Castle, including the symbolic western tower on the right Open-Air Museum (p265), a
For practical information on travelling around Lithuania, see pp388–93
symbol of political will, having

been dismantled by the Soviet’s
numerous times, as it is an
outpouring of deep religious
faith.
Day 10 Palanga
From Šiauliai , head west to
the coastal town of Palanga
(p286) and spend a peaceful
afternoon on the sandy beach
before joining locals and
tourists on the pier to watch
the sunset.
Day 11 Klaipėda
Lithuania’s only seaport,
Klaipėda (see pp284–5) is a
Tranquil lake fringed by thick forest and marshy shores, Aukštaitija National Park popular spot with an atmos-
pheric Old Town and a vibrant
wonderful collection of To extend your trip… nightlife scene. Pay a visit to the
traditional buildings from Hire a rowing boat at Palušė Clock Museum to marvel at its
around the country that have and follow the circular water intriguing collection of time-
been meticulously reassembled trail around the lakes. pieces from all over the world
in picturesque surroundings. and consider a visit to the
Picture Gallery and the large
Day 6 Druskininkai Day 9 Šiauliai sculpture park just behind.
Travel south to Druskininkai Head 240 km (150 miles) west
(p259) and spend the rest of the to Šiauliai (pp276–7), historic Day 12 Curonian Spit
day relaxing in this tranquil spa site of the Battle of the Sun in Accessible by ferry from
resort where numerous spa 1236, which saw the defeat of Klaipėda to Smiltynė , the
centres offer massage, mud the Livonian Order at the hands Curonian Spit (pp288–9) is
baths, beauty treatments and of the pagan Samogitians. one of Lithuania’s most
mineral water cures. Today it’s a thriving modern remarkable natural sights.
city with a well-preserved Old No more than 4 km (2 miles)
To extend your trip… Town and numerous museums, wide at any point and as
Spend a day hiking or but it’s probably best-known narrow as 400 m (440 yards)
cycling along well-marked for the incredible Hill of in places, it’s a slender sliver
paths in the forests Crosses (see p277), just a little of land made up of sand dunes,
surrounding Druskininkai. ways north at Jurgaičių. The beaches and woods that
small hill is covered with stretch from Klaipėda to
thousands upon thousands the Sambian Peninsula in
Day 7 Aukštaitija National of crosses and religious sculp- Kaliningrad. Enjoy a peaceful
Park tures from all over the world, stay at one of the many small
From Druskininkai, take the and is almost as much a guesthouses in and around
northeastern road via Vilnius Nida (p306), which can be
to Ignalina, a small rural town reached by minibus.
that lies just outside Aukštaitija
National Park. Day 13 Curonian Spit
Spend the day exploring the
Day 8 Aukštaitija National Curonian Spit on foot or by
Park bicycle. Points of interest
Dotted with glacial lakes, rock include the Hill of Witches
formations, and ancient pine, (p289) created by local sculptors
spruce and birch forests, just outside Juodkrantė , and
Aukštaitija National Park the 52-m (171-ft) Parnidis
(see pp270–71) is a delightful Dune (p288), which offers
area to explore. Worthwhile marvellous views of the area.
sights include Salos II Cultural
Reserve for its exhibition of Day 14 Curonian Spit
traditional thatched houses, to Vilnius
and Ladakalnis Hill for its The journey back to Vilnius by
panoramic view of the The popular 18-km (11-mile) beach at the car, bus or train takes around
national park. resort of Palanga 5 hours.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A Helsinki,
St Petersburg
Mariehamn,
Putting Estonia, Latvia and Stockholm
Lithuania on the Map Kapellskar Tallinn
With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski
the south, the Baltic States lie on the southeastern shore of

the Baltic Sea. The region is bordered in the east by Russia and Vormsi Riisipere
in the south by Poland, Belarus and the Russian enclave of Kärdla
Island
Kaliningrad. The Baltic States’ total land area is 173,000 sq km Haapsalu

Hiiumaa
(66,778 sq miles). Latvia and Lithuania are of roughly equal Island
size, while Estonia is about a third smaller and has a relatively Muhu Lihula
flat terrain in comparison to the other two countries. The Island
three capital cities – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – are home

to around a third of the region’s 6.3 million people. Pärnu
Saaremaa
Island
Kuressaare
Kihnu
Island
Gulf of Rīga
Stockholm
Cape Kolka
Ventspils
Talsi Gauja
Nynashamn, Rīga
Tukums Jūrmala
Travemunde
Sabile
Kuldīga
Key
Pāvilosta Jelgava
Motorway Baltic
Saldus Dobele
Major road Sea
Minor road Liepāja
Railway line
Joniškis
Mažeikiai
Telšiai Šiauliai
Travemunde
Palanga Plungė
Karlshamn,
Kiel Klaipėda Gargždai L I T H
0 kilometres Raseiniai
50
0 miles 50 N Šilutė
em
Curonian
u
Spit Tauragė
na
s
Nynäshamn Jurbarkas
Kaliningrad Vilkaviškis
Marijampolė
KALININGRAD
Lebork
(RUSSIA)
Gdańsk
Lazdijai
Elblag
P O L A N D

P U T T I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A O N T H E M A P 19
Sillamäe
Narva
Jõhvi Chudovo
Rakvere
Tapa
Luga
Slantsy
Veliky Novgorod
Paide
Lake Plyussa
Pe i p s i Zapolye
Shimsk
E S T O N I A Strugi Krasnye
Tartu
Viljandi
Lake
Vortsjärv
R U S S I A
Porkhov
Pskov
Otepää Võru
Dedovichi
Valga
Chikhachevo
Valmiera Ostrov
Alūksne
Bezhanitsy
Smiltene
Cēsis Pytalovo
Gulbene
Sigulda
L A T V I A
Opochka
Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Ogre Ludza Pustoshka
Da
ug Rēzekne
ava
Jēkabpils
Preiļi Nevel
Biržai
Krāslava
Rokiškis Daugavpils BELARUS
Europe
Panevėžys
Utena
U A N I A SWEDEN
FINLAND
Ukmergė NORWAY
Molėtai
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
Jonava North
Sea LATVIA
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Kaišiadorys
Kaunas Vilnius UNITED

KINGDOM BELARUS
NETH.
PO L A N D
GE R MANY
BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Alytus F R ANC E AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA
SWITZ.
CROATIA ROMANIA
Nemunas
Varėna SERBIA
ITALY
BULGARIA
SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida
Architectural Styles
Ever since the wooden fortifications of the Baltic tribes were
replaced by stone castles in the 13th and 14th centuries,
foreign influences have dominated the architecture of
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Today, the Baltic capitals are
architectural treasure troves, with Tallinn particularly noted
for its medieval buildings, Vilnius for its Italian Baroque and
Rīga for its Art Nouveau. The Soviet era saw the building of
inexpensive mass housing. Since independence private
investment has funded ambitious new projects. Detail of the extravagant Gothic brickwork
of Perkūnas House, Kaunas
Romanesque and Gothic

Brought to Tallinn and Rīga by medieval The Estonian
German invaders, the Romanesque style, with History Museum
its heavy vaulting, round arches and restrained was built in Tallinn for
the Great Guild, a
ornamentation, lasted briefly in the region. The
powerful organization
ornate Gothic ribbed vaults, pointed arches
of German-speaking
and decorative façades were more popular. merchants. This early
Tallinn boasts the finest examples, while most 15th-century
of Rīga’s were destroyed as part of the building has a stern
19th-century rebuilding of the city. Gothic façade and
vaulted halls.
The Church of
St Anne, Vilnius’s
most celebrated
Gothic building,
was constructed
using 33 types of
red brick. So
impressed was
Napoleon
Bonaparte that he
is said to have Kuressaare Castle, on Saaremaa Island, is the only
wanted to take it intact Gothic-style medieval castle in the Baltic
back to Paris. States. It is built in local dolomite.
Renaissance and Baroque

The 15th- and 16th-century revival of Classical learning,
which favoured architectural features such as regularity,
symmetry and a central axis, found little expression in
Lithuania. In Latvia and Estonia, however, it led to the
addition of new façades to existing buildings. The bold 17th-
and 18th-century Baroque style, endorsed by the Catholic
Church, found favour in the religious climate of Vilnius.
Pažaislis Monastery, in
Kaunas, is one of Eastern
Europe’s most
prominent Baroque
monuments. Built in the
17th century by Italian
architects, the
monastery church has a The House of Blackheads, in Tallinn, was
twin-towered façade, used by the Brotherhood of Blackheads.
behind which soars the It was formerly a 14th-century building,
52-m (171-ft) dome. which was redesigned in a Renaissance
A wealth of marble style in 1597. The interiors were renovated
enriches the interior. in Neo-Classical style in 1908.
A P O R T R A I T O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 21
Neo-Classical and Historicist

The Neo-Classical style arrived in the Baltic States as late as
the 1780s. The style had a strong influence on Tartu, as well
as some of the finest manor houses throughout Estonia.
However, most examples today are found in Tallinn, often as
façades on earlier buildings; some Latvian and Lithuanian
palaces also exhibit the style. Around 1820, the Historicist
movement became popular, drawing inspiration from various
styles including Gothic, Renaissance and Neo-Baroque.
Tartu’s Town Hall is an

elegant Neo-Classical
edifice, eye-catchingly
painted in lilac and orange.
It was designed in the 18th
century by J H B Walter for
the Pistohlkors family.
Kaunas’s Town Hall, locally known

as the “White Swan”, was renovated
in 1870 in Neo-Classical style. It
also bears Baroque traces, most The Latvian National Theatre, in Rīga, was designed in a
obviously in its 53-m (174-ft) tall superb Neo-Baroque style. It was completed in 1902 by architect
stepped tower. Augusts Reinbergs under the influence of Historicist aesthetics.
Art Nouveau, Modernist and Contemporary

The second half of the 19th century saw Art Nouveau gaining a hold in Rīga.
After World War I there was a reaction against earlier flamboyant styles, with
Modernists emphasizing function and Soviets favouring severe Functionalism.
Since independence, further construction has taken place in the capitals, but
it is not always in harmony with older architectural styles.
Alberta iela 13,

in Rīga, is a fine Europa Tower, in Vilnius,
example of eclectic is one of a growing
Art Nouveau, blend- number of skyscrapers
ing Classical and in the Baltic capitals,
Symbolist imagery marking the return of
and Neo-Baroque the private sector.
stylistic features.
The National
Library, in Tallinn, is
an architectural
triumph of the late
Soviet period. Raine
Karp, the Estonian
architect who
designed it, used
local dolomitic
limestone.
Landscape and Wildlife

The three Baltic countries are heavily forested with
pine, spruce and birch and enjoy a predominantly flat
terrain, although there are hilly areas such as the
Vidzeme Upland in Latvia. The highest point in the
region is Estonia’s Suur Munamägi peak, which rises to
about 318 m (1,043 ft) above sea level. The Baltic States
are known for their dramatic coastlines, innumerable
lakes and rivers as well as extensive wetlands which,
along with forests, provide habitats for a wide range of
wildlife. The countries are also on major bird migration Erratic boulders, some of them very
large, are common on the coastline
paths, making them popular with ornithologists all of Estonia’s Käsmu Peninsula (see
over the world. All three countries are still extensively p114). They were dragged there by
covered with peat bogs, marshes and lakes. glaciers during the last Ice Age.
Forest Wetlands
Around 40 per cent of the total landscape in The extensive wetlands of the region are ideal
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania is forested. Pine, habitats for migrating birds, and for supporting
spruce and birch are the main species, alongside plants such as cranberries and orchids. In
other trees such as oak, ash, elm and maple. Estonia, raised bogs in which thick layers of peat
Trees were highly valued in the region’s have built up are common. Many are protected
pre-Christian religions. by national parks.
Fauna Bees are highly valued in

the region, as apiculture is
The Baltic States are home to large mammals such as an important industry and
lynx, elk, deer, wolves and brown bears. With the a part of the Baltic States’
region lying on major migration routes there are cultural heritage.
numerous nesting bird species including white stork,
crane, barn swallow and grouse. The rivers and lakes
teem with fish such as perch, trout and carp.
White storks are

emblematic of the Wolves are found in the
region and are often region’s forests, especially
found nesting atop in Lithuania. However,
chimney pots or they are a rare sight, as
telegraph poles. hunting has resulted in
Black storks are a dwindling numbers of
relatively rare sight. this predatory animal.
Flora Arctic lichen is a

The Baltic States’ extensive forests and wetlands type of fungus found
provide an environment in which a diverse range in Hiiumaa Island’s
of plants can thrive. Many edible varieties of fungi Landscape Reserve.
and berries grow here. There is an orchid trail near Like other lichen, it
Lake Engure, in Latvia, and yellow rattle and sea usually grows in two
holly grow in Saaremaa and Curonian Spit. layers with a growth
of algae in between.
Mushrooms are Orchids grow

mostly wood mostly in the
decomposers or wetlands and
parasites. As the woods. Those
virgin forests are found here
depleting, include rare
species of the North European Berries, such as cran-
former are species that are berries, are eaten and
becoming rarer. facing extinction. also turned into wine.
Lakes and Rivers Coastline

The region is dotted with lakes, of which Lake Estonia has a sprawling coastline. It includes
Peipsi in Estonia is the largest. There are a a stretch of the Baltic Klint, which is a long
number of short rivers in the area. The low erosional escarpment stretching from Sweden
salinity of the Baltic Sea limits the number of to Russia. Another striking coastal feature is the
plants and animal species it can support. Thus Curonian Spit, a long sandy strip in Lithuania
many of those present are freshwater species. stretching to Kaliningrad.
The barn Ringed seals are protected

swallow, the and can be found off
national bird the coast of Saaremaa
of Estonia, often and other
builds its nests Estonian islands.
in man-made
structures.
Elk is a game
Brown bears are species that
omnivores and can usually lives in
be spotted in the forests and
forests of Estonia and wetlands. It often
Latvia, although they appears on
are usually sighted restaurant
only with the help menus in the
of a guide. Baltic States.
Religion
Although the Baltic lands were officially Christian by the end
of the 14th century, pagan beliefs persisted and mingled
with the new religion. Protestantism left its mark in the
16th century, but Lithuania soon returned to the Catholic
fold. Today, it is the only Baltic State where the church plays
a major public role – in Estonia and Latvia, the surge in
religious participation after independence in 1991 proved
short-lived. A significant number of ethnic Russians belong Aerial view of the Orthodox Cathedral in
Rīga, Latvia
to the Russian Orthodox church, while other minority
religious groups include Jews and Muslims.
Orthodox Christianity
Orthodox missionaries arrived
in the region as early as the
10th century but had little
success. Orthodox Christianity
was largely eclipsed by
Catholicism, except among
the Setu (see p124). This
changed only under Russian
rule in the 19th century, with
many magnificent Orthodox
churches built at that time.
Today, almost all Orthodox
worshippers in the region are
ethnic Russians. Their churches
Priest performing a Romuva ritual based on ancient pagan beliefs are known for the abundance
of icons – images of Christ,
deities show aspects of one Mary and various saints – often
Paganism divine being. Pagan overtones displayed in rows on a screen
Christianity came late to the are still present in a number of called an iconostasis. The
Baltic region, with the Grand Christian celebrations. region also contains small
Duchy of Lithuania holding out The first period of indepen- communities of Old Believers
until 1387, a year after Grand dence in the 20th century saw (see p126), descendants of
Duke Jogaila was baptized. The attempts to revive old worshippers who broke away
details of pagan beliefs are traditions. Some local organi- from the Orthodox Church in
sparse, and scholars rely on zations, such as Dievturība in protest against reforms
surviving traditions and folk Latvia, were nationalist in tone. introduced by Patriarch Nikon
songs. Animism, the belief that After years of Soviet margina- in 1652. Bringing Russian
plants and animals possess lization, Dievturība has now Orthodox rites in line with the
spirits, prevailed. Trees had been revived, though the Greek, his motives were both
great significance, with prayers Lithuanian pagan group religious and political. The Old
offered at sacred groves. Romuva has a stronger Believers sought to retain the
Shamans communicated following in the country. purity of their faith, and the
with the gods, but there was
no organized priesthood. For
Latvians and Lithuanians major
deities included Dievs or Dievas
(the Sky God), Saule (the Sun),
Pērkons or Perkūnas (Thunder),
Velns or Velnias (Trickster),
Mēness or Menulis (the Moon)
and Laima (Fate). The Estonians
and Livs (see p176) worshipped
Taara (War), Uku (Thunder and
Lightning), Vanetooni (the Dead),
Maaema (Land), Ahti (Water)
and Vanejumi (Fertility). Some
scholars argue that these various Devotees lined up in Alexander Nevsky Church, Tallinn, Estonia
result was the Russian term

raksol (schism) and their
subsequent persecution. Many
Old Believers fled from Russia,
and today the main
communities in the Baltic
States are around Lake Peipsi
(see p127) in Estonia and in the
Latgale region of Latvia.
Differences in rites include
making the sign of the cross
with two fingers (the Orthodox
church now uses three) and
changes to the wording of the
Creed. Old Believers regard
shaving a man’s beard as sinful, Catholic Church of the Holy Spirit, Vilnius, Lithuania
and there are restrictions on
smoking tobacco. Members Counter-Reformation, the trained and there was an
often wear long traditional Catholic Church’s response increased use of indigenous
Russian shirts. to the threat posed by languages for religious
Lutheranism. The newly activities. The first Bible in
established Jesuit order built Latvian was published in 1689
schools and made efforts to by the Lutheran theologian
use the native language, also Ernst Glück (1654–1705).
emphasizing the importance There was a brief revival
of the Virgin Mary in an in religious activity after
attempt to win back worship- independence from the
pers. Today Lithuania is the oppressive Soviet regime,
only country out of the three during which many churches
Baltic States where religion is had been converted for other
central to national identity. uses. Although Estonia and
Latvia are still officially
Lutheran, participation has
Protestantism declined in recent years and
The Reformation was quickly there are now marginally
felt in Estonia and Western more Catholics than Lutherans
Latvia with the introduction of in Latvia.
the revolutionary ideas
Old Believers’ Church, made of wood, near of Lutheranism, a major
Lake Peipsi branch of Protestant
Christianity. The
offshoot emphasized
Catholicism receiving God’s grace
Catholicism was brought to through faith alone,
the region by force, with Pope rather than through
Innocent III authorizing a good works. It first
crusade against the northern appeared in Estonian
pagans in 1198. The areas urban centres during
which are now known as the 1520s. Initially, the
Estonia and Latvia fell first, landowners resisted
with Lithuania hanging on the change, but soon
until 1387. they recognized it as a
The new religion was useful way to resist the
regarded as alien by the indi- influence of the Pope.
genous population, a feeling Peasants were
exacerbated by the use of expected to follow the
Latin in services. Catholicism faith of their landlords.
found its strongest roots in The new beliefs were
Eastern Latvia and Lithuania, further bolstered by
both under the influence of Swedish rule in the
Poland. These foundations 17th century, when
were strengthened by the more pastors were Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church, Otepää
Famous People
A history of cultural domination by other nations explains why
only a handful of figures from the Baltic States are internationally
known. It was only with the 19th-century national awakening
movements that the notion of distinctive Baltic cultures gained
popularity. After the brief confidence of the first independence,
the restrictions of the Soviet era meant that most famous
people from the region were either of Russian heritage or
were living outside their native countries. In the years since
independence in 1991, the arts have been hampered by
A portrait by Michael Sittow, a
reduced state funding. 15th-century Tallinn-born artist
Visual Arts
Estonia’s best-known painter was Eduard Wiiralt (1898–
1954), while in the 20th century animators Elbert Tuganov
(1920–2007) and Priit Pärn (b.1946) gained international
praise. Within Latvia, painter Janis Rozentāls (1866–1916)
remains most beloved, although Mark Rothko (see p200) is
more famed abroad. Lithuania has produced several
notable photographers, including Antanas Sutkus (b.1939).
Sergei Eisenstein (1898–

1948), one of the most Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis
influential film directors (1875–1911), Lithuania’s pre-eminent
and theorists of all time, composer, was also an accomplished
was born in Rīga. His artist. His work draws extensively upon
groundbreaking use of Symbolism and the influence of music
editing is best seen in his can be found in his emphasis on mood,
early Marxist cinematic interest in harmony and development
works, including Strike! of themes across a series of paintings.
(1924) and Battleship The tempera on canvas shown above
Potemkin (1925). is entitled The Offering (1909).
Literature
Key to the 19th-century national awareness was the
preservation and creation of stories by authors such
as Latvian Andrejs Pumpurs (1841–1902), Estonian
Friedrich Kreutzwald (1803–82) and Lithuanian Jonas
Mačiulis (1862–1932). Modern literature is equally
celebrated and famous contemporary authors include
Estonian poets Jaan Kaplinski (b.1941) and Jaan Kross
(1920–2007), and Lithuanian novelists Ričardas Gavelis
(1950–2002) and Jurga Ivanauskaitė (1961–2007).
Anton Hansen Tammsaare (1878–1940) is

regarded as the greatest Estonian writer. His
work Truth and Justice is a five-volume series of
novels covering subjects that include rural
Estonia and the Russian Revolution of 1905.
Czesław Miłosz (1911–2004) was born into a Polish

aristocratic family and educated in Vilnius. A poet and
intellectual, Miłosz won the Nobel Prize for Literature
in 1980. He is perhaps best known for The Captive
Mind, a prose critique of Communist ideology.
Music
Estonia has a strong tradition of classical
composition. Veljo Tormis (b.1930) is Arvo Pärt (b.1935), an
influenced by Estonian folk music, while Estonian composer, made
Erkki-Sven Tüür (b.1959) mixes avant-garde early experiments with
techniques with early music and progressive Schoenberg’s 12-tone
technique and the use of
rock. The father of Latvian classical music is
chance. He is internationally
Jāzeps Vītols (1863–1948), and the country is
known for “sacred
also known for pop and rock performers minimalism”, drawing on
such as the band Brainstorm. Lithuania is medieval traditions and
renowned for jazz musicians, including the Orthodox Christianity. Pärt
Ganelin Trio, while its finest classical describes his music as
composer was M K Čiurlionis. tintinnabuli (like bells).
Theatre and Dance

Professional theatre was once the domain of the ruling
classes, but from the mid-19th century plays were written by
authors such as Estonia’s Eduard Vilde (1865–1933) and
Latvia’s Rūdolfs Blaumanis (1863–1908). Lithuania’s lively
theatre scene is dominated by director Eimuntas Nekrošius
(b.1952). Ballet thrived during the Soviet era, with the Rīga
Ballet promoting Alexander Godunov (1949–95).
Mikhail Baryshnikov
(b.1948), born in Rīga, is
of Russian descent.
Baryshnikov began his
ballet studies in the Latvian
city before progressing to
Leningrad (now St Voldemar Panso (1920–77), the
Petersburg). He defected famous theatre director, rejected
while on tour in Canada in Soviet ideology in favour of com-
1974. He later became a plex characters and the ambiguity
citizen of the USA and of Symbolism. He also founded the
founded a dance centre in Estonian Youth Theatre (later the
New York. Tallinn City Theatre).
Sport
The talent of Baltic athletes was, for many decades, obscured by
their status as Soviet citizens. Estonia’s most famous Olympian
was heavyweight wrestler Kristjan Palusalu (1908–87), while
Latvian long-distance walker Jānis Daliņš (1904–78) won the
Olympic silver in 1932. Lithuania’s top Olympic athlete is discus-
thrower Virgilijus Alekna (b.1972). The region has also produced
exceptional basketball players, including Lithuanian Arvydas
Sabonis (b.1964), Latvian Uljana Semjonova (b.1952) and
Estonian Tiit Sokk (b.1964).
Erki Nool (b.1970) won a

gold medal in the decathlon
at the 2000 Sydney Olympics, Uljana Semjonova (b.1952), a
a controversial result since a basketball player of Russian-
judge had disallowed all Latvian origin, won two Olympic
three of his discus attempts gold medals in 1976 and 1980.
before the competition She dominated the world
referee over-ruled him. In basketball scene throughout the
2007, Nool was elected to the 1970s and 80s and never lost any
Estonian Parliament. official international match.
Folk Songs and Music

The traditional songs of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania
typically deal with everyday events, calendar rituals and
rites of passage, though stories of epic heroism and
grandeur also exist. These songs are sung by women.
Efforts to compile the songs began in earnest in the late
19th century and this was an important facet of the region’s
growing national awareness. Later, between 1987 and 1990,
the struggle for freedom from the Soviet Union came to be
known as the Singing Revolution, partly due to the role Cover of the 1998 album Beyond the River:
played by huge open-air concerts. Seasonal Songs of Latvia
Traditional Lithuanian songs, or dainos, deal

with daily life. They are sung solo, in unison or
polyphonically. One of the best-known forms is
the duophonic sutartinė from the northeast.
Monophonic
Estonian songs,
or runo, are related
to those from
Finland, and their Baltica Festival
roots are much
older than those This annual international folklore festival
of Latvia and was first held in Estonia in 1987 and is
Lithuania. The Setu hosted cyclically by the Baltic States. The
people of Eastern three Baltic flags were hoisted together for
Estonia have their the first time during the second festival in
own distinctive 1987. Today, the festival brings together
polyphonic around 3,000 participants and includes
singing traditions. concerts, parades and workshops.
Latvian folk songs, or

dainas, consist of one or two
stanzas each with two non-
rhyming couplets. This
singing tradition is lyrical and
usually draws inspiration
from pagan mythology or
daily life. Traditionally, these
songs were accompanied by
instruments such as bagpipes
and psalteries, with
accordions and fiddles added
in the 17th century.
Veljo Tormis Baltic Folk Singers

(b.1930) is a
celebrated com- The Soviet era saw government-approved
poser of choral performers refine folk songs with classical
music based on harmonies and accompaniment, but enthusiasts
the folk songs of worked to preserve genuine traditions. Today, a
his native Estonia. number of festivals are held all over the region.
Many of his more
political pieces of
the 1970s and 80s
were censored
by the Soviet
government.
Iļģi, the famous Latvian folk music band, was formed

in 1981. Like most folk musicians of the country, they
revived forgotten traditions and developed into a
band that used folklore as an impulse for creating
music of their own.
Veronika
Povilionienė
(b.1946) has
enjoyed success
since the late
1960s, initially
promoting folk
singing as a mode
of anti-Soviet
protest. In recent
years, she has also
recorded pop and
jazz albums.
The Baltic Psaltery

The most characteristic instrument used by the region’s folk singers is the Baltic psaltery. It exists
in numerous variations, and is known as kokle in Latvia, kanklės in Lithuania and kannel in Estonia.
In the late 19th century, hybrids influenced by German and Austrian zithers were developed.
The body is a single A bridge connects

piece of wood with Wooden the strings to the
an ornamented pegs are resonator, unlike
soundboard added. used to tune traditional
the strings. psalteries.
Strings made from

steel, bronze or
natural fibres
number between
5 and 12. Strings of the
modern zither-
Strings are like hybrids can
positioned number many
unevenly. more than those
used in the tradi-
tional kanklės.
Kannel Kokle Kanklės
Baltic Amber
Amber has been valued for millennia, with amber jewellery
found dating back to the early Neolithic period (around 7000 BC).
Many medical authorities of the ancient world, including
Hippocrates, believed that amber had healing properties. A trade
network, now known as the Amber Road, arose at the height of
the Roman Empire. In the medieval period, amber was used to
make rosaries. Today, it still washes up on Latvian and Lithuanian
shores, although 90 per cent of the world’s amber is mined in the
Curonian Spit of neighbouring Kaliningrad. One of the many amber stalls
found in tourist areas
Identifying Amber
Sellers may pass off copal or plastic as genuine amber. Genuine
amber floats in salt water and exudes a pine scent when touched
with a red-hot needle, but only laboratory tests are conclusive.
Amber-catchers in the Baltic

Sea are shown in this litho-
graph from the 1850s. In the
13th century, local amber-
gathering was forbidden by
the Teutonic Knights. Their Unpolished amber of different
monopoly was lifted only in colours and shapes
the 19th century, reviving
amber-working traditions.
Amber pieces are regularly

washed ashore in Pāvilosta
(see p183), a small port town
in Latvia. There are a handful
of professional amber-
catchers, and tourists can
arrange to go out with them.
Formation of Amber
Before it is washed up on the coasts of the Baltic States, which happens especially after raging storms,
amber takes millions of years to transform from pine resin into a sought-after substance. Often clear,
amber can also contain pine needles or insects which were trapped in the resin before it solidified.
Tree Exuding Resin Insects Trapped in Amber Copal Formation

Certain trees exude a sticky resin, Any insects stuck in the resin are Copal, or hardened resin,
which has a range of defensive prevented from decaying, as the becomes incorporated into the
functions. Its antiseptic qualities substance is antiseptic and ground after the tree dies. The
kill bacteria and fungi, while its lacking in water. Slowly, the solidification process continues
stickiness inhibits physical attack volatile components evaporate, for millions of years, until the
from insects. leaving behind copal. inert substance becomes amber.
Uses of Amber The Amber Road

In addition to its decorative value, amber
An EU-funded project has
was once considered to have healing devised a modern-day Amber
powers and even today some Lithuanians Road that links a series of towns
consider it to be a cure for goitre. The along the Baltic Coast. Starting
Aztecs and Maya are known to have from Ventspils (see pp180–81),
burned amber as incense. the route takes in Palanga (see
p286), Liepāja (see pp184–5)
and Klaipėda (see pp284–5).
While some of these towns
have amber museums, Palanga
Delicately crafted also has an amber-processing
Knife decorated with amber amber jewellery workshop. Nida in Lithuania
has a museum that exhibits
amber. The route also takes in
Karklė and Pāvilosta, with
professional amber-catchers.
Juodkrantė, once the site of
major amber-mining activity,
boasts a collection of prehistoric
amber artifacts. Further south
Exquisite brooch fashioned is Kaliningrad, a Russian outpost
Typical inlaid amber box in amber that is the source of the vast
majority of the world’s amber.
Ventspils •
Liepāja LATVIA
•
The Amber Museum in Palanga

(see p286) features a stunning
collection of amber pieces with
prehistoric insects trapped inside, as • Šventoji
well as amber jewellery. There is also
Palanga •
a display presenting the natural • Karklė

history of amber. Klaipėda •
Juodkrantė • LITHUANIA
An amber-polishing workshop, Nida •
held by experts, offers participants

Kaliningrad
the opportunity to create their own RUSSIA
jewellery. Some amber museums
Key
across the Baltic States conduct
these workshops. Amber Road
Amber in Folklore
A popular Lithuanian folk tale recounts the love
between the fisherman Kastytis and the goddess
Juratė, who lived in an amber palace at the bottom
of the sea. Angry that a mortal had dared to touch a
goddess, the god Perkūnas sent lightning to destroy
the palace and drown Kastytis. It is believed that pieces
of the palace have been washing up on the shore ever
since. The well-known story was first recorded in
writing by Liudvikas Adomas Jucevičius in 1842, and
the tale has even been adapted into a rock opera. Jūratė kaj Kastytis by Nijolė Ona Gaigalaitė
The Climate of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania

With the Baltic Sea as a moderating influence, the Baltic region
has a temperate climate without the extremes that afflict
neighbouring Russia. Winters are gloomy, however, with short
days and bitter winds. The first snow usually falls in November, WESTERN
and inland there can be constant snow cover from December ESTONIA
to April. The snowy season is shorter on the coast, where
temperatures are noticeably lower in summer and higher in Pärnu
winter. At other times the weather is unpredictable, with rain Kuressaare
even in the middle of summer, when days are long and warm.
PÄRNU
Average monthly
21/70
° C/F
maximum temperature Ventspils
13/55
7/45 9/48
4/39
0/32
-3/27 Average monthly
minimum temperature WESTERN
-9/16 Rīga
6 10 3 1
LATVIA
hrs hrs hrs hr Average daily hours of
Jelgava
sunshine Liepāja
36 72 60 36
mm mm mm mm
Average monthly
month Apr Jul Oct Jan rainfall
WESTERN Šiauliai
LIEPĀJA Klaipėda LITHUANIA
20/68
° C/F 14/57
11/52
8/47 6/43
2/36
-1/30
-5/23
6 9 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr Kaunas
37 66 77 53
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
KLAIPĖDA RĪGA KAUNAS
20/68 22/72 22/72

° C/F ° C/F ° C/F
14/57 12/54
9/48 10/50 12/54 10/50 11/52 12/54 11/52
6/43 4/39
2/36 2/36 4/39
1/34
0/31 -2/28 -3/27
-5/23 -8/18 -9/16

6 9 3 1 6 10 3 1 6 9 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr hrs hrs hrs hr hrs hrs hrs hr
36 74 80 50 41 85 60 34 42 80 45 39
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
T H E C L I M AT E O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 33
TALLINN
Tallinn 21/70
° C/F
12/54 9/48
8/46
4/39
0/32
-2/28
EASTERN
ESTONIA -8/18
6 10 2 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
Tartu
36 78 73 48
Viljandi
mm mm mm mm
TARTU
22/72
° C/F
11/52
9/48 9/48
3/37
0/32
-4/25
EASTERN
-11/12
LATVIA
8 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
33 71 52 29
Jēkabpils mm mm mm mm
Daugavpils
DAUGAVPILS
23/73
° C/F
10/50 12/54 10/50
1/34 3/37
CENTRAL -4/25
LITHUANIA
-10/14
6 8 3 1
0 km 50
hrs hrs hrs hr
0 miles 50
42 79 52 37
Vilnius mm mm mm mm
VILNIUS
22/72
° C/F
11/52 12/54 10/50
2/36 3/38
-4/25
-9/16
6 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
46 78 53 41
mm mm mm mm
Estonia’s winter landscape with snow-capped forest

T H E H I S TO R Y O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 35
THE HISTORY OF
ESTONIA, LATVIA
AND LITHUANIA
The history of the Baltic region begins in 3000 BC with the arrival of the early Baltic
tribes, the ancestors of today’s Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians. Despite
a shared experience of conquest, foreign occupation and struggles for
independence, the three countries have preserved their distinct cultural
identities, emerging in 1991 as sovereign states.
Archaeological evidence suggests that the coast, the Prussians beyond the Nemunas
Baltic region was inhabited as early as river, the Zemgalians in central Latvia and
10,000 BC, at the end of the Ice Age. The the Selonians and Latgalians further east.
earliest occupied site, at Kernavė in For several centuries, the Balts remained
Lithuania, dates back to 9000 BC. These firmly rural, living off the land. Until the early
Stone Age people used bows, arrows and 1200s, there were similar but unrelated
spears for hunting and fishing. It was not settlements all along the coast, from what is
until 3000 BC, however, that the ancestors now Klaipėda as far as St Petersburg. There
of the current inhabitants began to arrive. are very few records of life at that time as
Surviving by hunting and fishing, the the local communities used wood rather
Finno-Ugrians – the future Finns and than stone for all their fortifications and
Estonians – were among the first to drift housing. Archaeological research has shown
across Europe from Asia. They were pushed that there were extensive trading networks
back by the Indo-European groups that across the sea from this area to Sweden and
arrived in 2000 BC. The Indo-Europeans, Germany and inland towards Russia. The
who introduced crop cultivation and little written material from that time talks
animal rearing to the traditional modes about the Balts as good boat-builders and
of subsistence, mingled with the existing dreaded pirates.
groups, eventually forming the races At a time when the rest of Europe had
now known collectively as the Balts. embraced Christianity, the Balts staunchly
During the first centuries AD, distinctive practised paganism. After haphazard
regional tribes began to form. These attempts by small groups of Western
were the Samogitians (Lowlanders) and European missionaries to convert the area
Aukštaitijans (Highlanders) in western and to Christianity failed, the first Baltic crusade
eastern Lithuania, the Curonians along the was sanctioned by Pope Innocent III in 1198.
Pope Innocent III (1160–1216)

10,000 Earliest 3000 Finno- 98 Roman 1198 The first Baltic
traces of human Ugrians arrive writer Tacitus 700 Vikings use Latvian crusade sanctioned
life in the in the region describes the rivers to trade with by Pope Innocent III
Baltic region “Aestii” people Persia and Turkey
10,000 BC 5000 BC AD 1 AD 600 AD 1190
9000 Hunting- 2000 Indo- 1009 The name

fishing groups European 100 Romans begin trading in Lithuania appears
flourish in Kernavė groups arrive amber along the Baltic coast in written form for
the first time
Early Neolithic bone objects, Narva, Estonia
Detail from Jan Matejko’s Battle of Grünwald (1878) showing Grand Duke Vytautas defeating the Teutonic Knights in 1410
Germans in Estonia and Latvia Saaremaa, was subjugated in 1227.

After the papal declaration of the crusade, A fortress built in 1260 at its capital,
the Teutonic Knights, or the German warrior- Kuressaare, is the only one in the Baltic
monks who had previously called themselves region to be preserved largely as the
the Brotherhood of the Sword, began to Teutonic Knights built it. Livonia flourished
venture along the Baltic Coast. The phrase under the Knights, as they built cities
“Drang nach Osten” (“Thrust Eastwards”), throughout the region. After joining the
which would become notorious in World Hanseatic League, a trading confederation
War II, dates from this time. Religious and of German port-cities and merchants’
commercial zeal drove the crusaders to associations, Tallinn and Rīga began to
establish colonies along the Baltic Coast. In thrive. The new social order, dominated by
1201, a bishopric was set up in Rīga, which the Germans, excluded the local inhabi-
became the basis for the Baltic conquest. tants not only from mercantile activities,
Expanding into Estonia from the south, the but also agriculture, where they could only
Knights created Livonia in 1207. Comprising be hired as serfs.
Latvia and Estonia, Livonia was recognized
as part of the Holy Roman Empire, with Polish Domination in Lithuania
Rīga as the capital. Estonia’s largest island, Lithuania has a very different history from
that of the area to its north. While
Christianity was dominant in much of the
Baltic region, Lithuania continued to be
resolutely pagan until 1385, when
Duke Jogaila married a Polish princess,
embraced Christianity and assumed the
crowns of Poland and Lithuania. Long
before him, in 1251, Mindaugas had briefly
adopted Christianity so that he could be
crowned by the Pope. In 1410, Jogaila and
his cousin Vytautas (r.1410–30), Grand
Prince of Lithuania, decisively defeated the
Teutonic Knights in the Battle of Žalgiris, or
Grünwald. Under Vytautas, the Grand
Duchy of Lithuania (see pp216–17) emerged
as one of the largest states in Europe.
Eventually, however, it came increasingly
under the control of the Poles, with the
relationship culminating in the creation of
the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in
A 19th-century lithograph showing the Battle of Grünwald (1410) 1569. With the Polish takeover, the right to
1237 The Brotherhood of the 1372 German 1410 Lithuanians

1201 German Sword becomes Livonian Order replaces Latin and Poles defeat the
crusaders set as the official Teutonic Knights
up a bishopric 1260 Building of Kuressaare language in at the Battle of
in Rīga Castle starts Kuressaare Castle Rīga and Tallinn Žalgiris (Grünwald)
1200 1250 1300 1350 1400 1450
1230 Mindaugas 1385 Lithuania 1430 The Grand

unites the Grand 1282 Rīga joins the united with Poland Duchy reaches
Duchy of Lithuania Hanseatic League; Tallinn under Jogaila the Black Sea
1207 Livonia becomes part of follows three years later
the Holy Roman Empire
lived colonies in Africa and the Caribbean.

The Swedish occupation, regarded as the
gentlest Livonia ever endured, was marked by
a benign governance. The Germans, mean-
while, continued to hold sway in Livonia,
socially and culturally. When an alternative to
Latin was needed in the churches, German
was the obvious choice. The universities at
Siege of Narva by the Russians in 1558 during the Livonian Wars Rīga and Tartu taught exclusively in German.
German merchants were granted special
own land was lost, the privileges of the rights by the Swedish rulers, Charles XI
peasantry were curbed and serfdom was (r.1660–97) and Charles XII (r.1697–1718),
firmly established in Lithuania. to ensure the continuity of commerce.
After the German barons’ estates were
The Swedes and the Russians expropriated by the Swedish crown, they
Sweden and Russia fought two major wars turned to Russia for help. In 1700, Charles XII
to ensure control over the Baltic Sea and defeated Peter the Great of Russia at Narva,
the surrounding land. In the Livonian Wars marking the beginning of the Great Northern
(1558–83), Poland and Lithuania were War (1700–21). The loss at Narva inspired the
involved in resisting the armies of Russia’s Tsar to create a modern army and, in 1709,
Ivan the Terrible (r.1533–84), in view of the using a bitter winter to his advantage, he
destruction he had wrought in Livonia. The defeated the Swedes at the Battle of Poltava.
immediate aftermath of the war resulted in In 1710, Tallinn and Rīga were occupied and
most of Estonia coming under Swedish soon Estonia and Latvia were brought
rule, while Latvia endured a Polish under Russian control.
occupation and Lithuania’s full union with
Poland was formalized. Southern and
Eastern Latvia, commonly known as
Courland and Latgale respectively, became
duchies owing allegiance to Poland.
War soon broke out again, this time
between the Poles and the Swedes, and in
1621, the Swedes seized Rīga and northern
Latvia. The Duchy of Courland stayed in Polish
hands, although the dukes almost became
rulers in their own right. The most prominent
of them, Duke Jakob Kettler (r.1642–82),
brought the duchy to the pinnacle of its
wealth and power, even establishing short- Battle of Poltava, a work by M Lomonosov (1711–65)
1520
Lutheranism
established in 1572 First reference 1642–82 Courland flourishes
Estonia, and a to a synagogue 1600–29 Polish- under Duke Jakob Kettler
year later in Latvia in Vilnius Swedish War
1500 1550 1600 1650 1700
1536 First 1700–21 Great Northern

record of 1558–83 War between Sweden
Jewish merchants Livonian Wars and Russia
in Rīga between Sweden
and Russia
King Charles XII of Sweden (1682–1718)
Army marched through Vilnius en route to

Moscow, and was greeted by the people
as liberators. In the same year Napoleon
returned there, retreating ignominiously,
not because the Russians had fought him
successfully, but because they denied him
supplies. In a pre-emptive move, the
Russians burned down the wooden
suburbs of Rīga to give them a clear firing
line for defending the town. Eventually,
the French army was forced to retreat.
Tsar Alexander I, with a soldier holding the Imperial Standard
A Century of Uneasy Peace
Under Tsarist Rule Under Alexander I, a series of agrarian laws
Peter the Great treated his new conquests were passed. Serfdom was abolished
with respect, as the Swedes had done before between 1816 and 1819, and peasants
him. He continued to give the local German were allowed to buy and sell land.
community considerable autonomy, both Civil unrest, however, came from the
with their trading rights in the towns and intelligentsia in the towns who were
with their manor houses in the countryside. dissatisfied with the religious domination
After his death in 1725, a unique century of of the Orthodox Church and the
peace followed. There were neither invasions increasing use of the Russian language.
nor local uprisings. The Jews (see pp40–41), Between 1830 and 1831, the movement
who had flourished under the Duchy of was at its strongest in Lithuania and one
Lithuania, gradually spreading into Latvia of the counter-measures taken by the
and parts of Estonia, continued to thrive. Russian authorities was to close Vilnius
By the 18th century, Vilnius had University in 1832, in the hope
become the Jewish capital of that this would quell the
Eastern Europe, and was referred unrest. In 1864, they resorted
to as Vilna. Under Catherine the to banning the publication of
Great (r.1762–96), the Russian books in Lithuanian using the
Empire expanded to include Latin alphabet; books were
Lithuania’s Grand Duchy, which now to be transcribed into
resulted from the third, and final, Cyrillic. This encouraged
partition of Poland in 1795. publishers in Prussia to
Tsar Alexander I (r.1801–25) was produce books in the Latin
forced to forsake his dreams of alphabet and to smuggle
reconstituting the Grand Duchy, An 1864 print in Lithuanian, them across the border. By the
when, in 1812, Napoleon’s Grand using the Latin alphabet 1860s, nationalist movements
1721 Sweden 1812 Napoleon’s

surrenders Estonia failed attempt to
and Latvia to Russia conquer Russia
Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821)
1725 1750 1775 1800
1767 Completion of
Latvia’s Rundāle 1795 Lithuania absorbed
Palace under into the Russian Empire
Catherine the Great
Catherine the Great
(1729–96)
were equally active in Latvia and Estonia. War Returns

In 1869, the first Estonian Song Festival was Strikes and demonstrations took place in
held, and in the following year, the writer 1905 in many cities throughout Russia, to
Lydia Koidula produced her first play in pressurize the Tsarist regime to grant civil
Estonian, having previously only written in rights and improve social conditions. Given
German. It is significant that both events the size of its industrial workforce at this
took place in Tartu and not in Tallinn, where time, Rīga was an active participant in this
German and Russian influence was still unrest. In the countryside, the protests
too strong. The Latvian writer were directed against the German
Krišjānis Valdemārs also caused a landed gentry and manor houses all
stir in Tartu by printing his name- over the region were attacked.
card in Latvian. It was not until These were social rather than
1900, however, that Estonians, nationalistic movements, partly as
Latvians and Lithuanians could the Balts were now able to use their
freely proclaim their nationalities own languages openly and could
in their capital cities. Latvian writer Krišjānis also take part in local administration.
In the 19th century, as in the Valdemārs (1825–91) National aspirations were, however,
18th, the Russians delegated forcibly dampened at the outbreak
local administration to the Germans. It was, of World War I (1914–18). The Russian
therefore, the Germans, and not the Revolution of 1917, which resulted in the
Russians, who gained from the commercial collapse of Tsarist Russia and brought the
potential of mass production, railways and Bolsheviks to power, played a significant
steamships. Rīga and Tallinn expanded role in changing the course of the region’s
hugely as ports and manufacturing centres. history. The Civil War that followed soon
The prospect of work drew many people after was seen as an opportunity for the
from rural areas into the larger towns. Baltic States to take control of their destiny.
A turn-of-the-19th-century postcard impression of Rīga, one of Eastern Europe’s most vibrant cities
1854 Crimean War 1870 Tallinn–St

breaks out; British Petersburg 1917 Russian Revolution and
Navy blockades railway opens Civil War stimulate Baltic
Russian Baltic ports independence movements
1825 1850 1875 1900
1832 Russians close 1916

Vilnius University to 1899 First Baltic electric 1905 Urban and Election of
curtail spread of tram line opens in Liepāja rural attacks on first Latvian
nationalist ideas German and mayor
Liepāja tram 1 at Russian businesses of Rīga
Liela iela, Latvia
Jewish History
The history of Jewish settlement in the Baltic region
began in the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas
invited merchants and craftsmen into the Grand Duchy of
Lithuania. Estonia only ever had a small Jewish population,
while Jews arrived in Latvia in the 15th century, but were
only allowed to settle in Rīga much later. During World War
II, almost all Jews who did not flee were killed. Although
some returned, the Jewish communities today are
dwindling, partly due to emigration to Israel.
Jewish Vilna’s itinerant clothes-sellers,
photographed in 1915
The Gaon of Vilna

(1720–97) was
Lithuania’s most
famous Jewish scholar,
whose writing and
research still guide
many in the Jewish
community today. In
1997, the celebration
of the bicentenary of
his birth brought
Litvaks, former
Lithuanian Jews, back
to Vilnius from all over
the world.
Jews in the Baltic Region

Banned from buying property and taking up
professions until the late 19th century, the Jewish
population lived largely as itinerant tradesmen
and market stall-holders. After World War I, they
were granted full rights as citizens. Until their
persecution by the Nazis in 1941, when Jews
were killed in large numbers, the Jews were
active in the professions, business and politics.
Rīga’s Great Choral Synagogue was built in 1869 for Children celebrating Purim were photo-
the city’s Jews, who thrived after the laws restricting graphed in 1933 in Vilnius. Purim, a joyful
Jewish residence were lifted in 1840. The site of a festival in the Jewish calendar, is still
Jewish massacre executed by the Nazis in 1941, the celebrated by the Jewish community
synagogue no longer exists. in the Baltic region today.
Kenesa, a 20th-century synagogue in Trakai, is where

the Karaim (see p257) congregate. An ethnically Turkish
community from the northern shores of the Black Sea,
they first settled in Trakai in the 14th century.
The Makkabi Sports Association was

one of the Jewish organizations that
thrived in independent Latvia between
1920 and 1940, when the government
worked hard to eliminate anti-Semitism.
The Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (see

p248), just outside Vilnius, commemorates the
70,000 Jews who were murdered here during
the Nazi occupation (1941–44). In Latvia,
66,000 Jews were massacred, while Estonia,
where 4,300 Jews lived prior to World War II,
was declared “Jew free”.
Tallinn’s Beit Bella

Synagogue was
opened on 16 May 2007.
The city had been with-
out a synagogue since
the destruction of an
earlier one during
World War II. Today, a
3,000-strong Jewish
Rīga’s Museum of the Jews in community lives in
Latvia documents 500 years of Estonia, while in Latvia
Jewish history in the region, and Lithuania, the Jews
and includes this poster used now number over 9,000
by anti-Semitic groups. and 4,000 respectively.
to some extent by seizing Memel (Klaipėda)

in 1923 from French troops.
For the next 20 years, the three countries
operated in a very similar manner. Weak,
ever-changing governments in the 1920s
gave way in the 1930s to strong statesmen
who ran the state on Mussolini’s corporatist
model. Even though nobody in any Baltic
government had held a senior position
before independence, it was remarkable
what they were able to achieve in such a
Estonia’s Constituent Assembly in session, 1919 short period of time. In Estonia and Latvia,
the German estates were seized but the
Independence Declared many successful urban businesses that had
As Western Europe welcomed peace in been established in the previous century
November 1918, the Baltic area was one were allowed to continue as before.
enormous battlefield. Anti-Bolsheviks still
hoped to overthrow the new Soviet regime, The Soviet Occupation
and the Germans wanted to make up for losses On 17 June 1940, the Baltic countries fell to the
in the West with victories in the East. The Poles Russians, as had been agreed in the Molotov-
were keen to form another commonwealth Ribbentrop Pact, a non-aggression treaty
with Lithuania. As a result, there was little signed between Germany and the USSR in
interest in supporting the declarations of 1939. All traces of the previous 20 years of
independence made by the three Baltic States independence were removed. Senior
early that year. Only a large British fleet, members of the three governments were
stationed off the Estonian coast, was happy executed. Flags, national anthems and Bibles
to supply arms to Estonia and Latvia and, were banned. The Soviet Union did not want
therefore, help them achieve independence. to be reminded of its failure to conquer the
By early 1920, Estonia and Latvia were Baltic States at the end of World War I. In
able to fight off all their June 1941, a massive
enemies and get them to deportation to Siberia was
agree to borders, which would organized of around 10,000
hold until 1940. Lithuania was Estonians, 15,000 Latvians
forced to give up Vilnius, after and 30,000 Lithuanians,
the Poles seized it later that most of whom died. A week
year. Subsequently, Kaunas later, Germany invaded the
was made the temporary Baltic States, violating the
capital. Lithuanians The USSR and Germany signing the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.
compensated themselves Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact of 1939 Soviet forces, who called
1918 The three Baltic States 1939 Molotov- 1941 German occupation of 1956 Baltic deportees
declare independence Ribbentrop Pact signed the Baltics begins allowed back
1922 Russia becomes between the USSR 1945 Soviet from Siberia
Soviet Union (USSR) and Germany reoccupation
1925 1935 1945 1955 1965
1920 Russia 1940 The three 1960 Foreign tourists are

recognizes indepen- Baltic countries once more allowed to visit
dence of the three incorporated into the Baltic capitals
Baltic States the USSR
Soviet tanks in Rīga, 1940
A chain of people joining hands to form the “Baltic Way” across the three Baltic States
themselves “liberators”, slowly reconquered “Baltic Way”, was formed across the three
most of the Baltic region during the autumn Baltic States to draw the world’s attention
of 1944, as they drove the Germans west- to their shared history of suffering.
wards. In anticipation of their return, many
locals fled to Sweden or Germany. Others Independence Returns
who stayed joined the partisans based in the Perestroika (reform) and glasnost (openness),
countryside. Known as the Forest Brothers, the two buzzwords of Mikhail Gorbachev’s
they were a very effective guerrilla force until regime (1985–91), had a dramatic effect in the
the mid-1950s, disrupting the Soviet Baltic region. Independence could be dis-
administration throughout the region. cussed openly and national flags reappeared.
All the links with the outside world were By 1990, independence for Estonia, Latvia
broken, including trading routes. and Lithuania could be predicted, but only in
Aware that it had only minimal popular the long term. However, its sudden arrival on
support, the Soviet government knew that 21 August 1991, when an attempted coup in
the incorporation of the Baltic States could Moscow against Gorbachev failed, was unex-
only be achieved and maintained pected. During a 48-hour period of
with brute force. In each country, total uncertainty, the three Baltic
the Russian military occupied large States took the opportunity to declare
parts to which access was strictly independence. Russia under Boris
controlled and all the paperwork Yeltsin did likewise, dissolving the
needed was only in Russian. The USSR. Suddenly, what had been
Russification policies followed by provincial backwaters became serious
the Tsars were enforced once again Soviet President European countries, with their own
in order to stamp out the national Mikhail Gorbachev airlines, currencies and embassies and,
identities of Estonia, Latvia and above all, recognition on a worldwide
Lithuania. They imposed such uniformity that basis. In 2004, the three Baltic States joined
it became challenging for an outsider to the EU and NATO (North Atlantic Treaty
distinguish one Baltic State from the other. Organization), and by 2015, all had adopted
In 1989, a human chain, referred to as the the EU’s common currency, the euro.
1994 Last Russian troops

leave the Baltic region 2002 Eurovision 2015
Song Contest held Lithuania
1991 Independence 2011 Estonia joins the
in Tallinn; a year
restored to the three joins the Eurozone
later in Rīga
Baltic countries Eurozone
1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1980 Moscow 1989 Two million people hold 2014 Latvia

Olympics sailing hands from Tallinn to Vilnius in a 2004 Baltic States joins the
events held chain known as the “Baltic Way” join EU and NATO Eurozone
in Tallinn
Coin issued in 1999 to mark the tenth anniversary of the “Baltic Way”
ESTONIA
Estonia at a Glance 46–47

A Portrait of Estonia 48–51
Estonia Through the Year 52–53
The History of Estonia 54–57
Tallinn 58–87
Western Estonia 88–105
Eastern Estonia 106–127
46 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Estonia at a Glance ESTONIA
The smallest of the Baltic States, Estonia is divided into

two geographical regions, Western Estonia and Eastern LAT VIA
Estonia. Apart from the hilly region in the southeast,
most of the country is low-lying and is punctuated with LITHUANIA
innumerable lakes and rivers. Estonia’s deeply indented

coastline and archipelago of many islands offer some
dramatic scenery. The country is sparsely populated
and made up of forests, wetlands and peatbogs that
teem with wildlife.
Tallinn (see pp58–87), the

capital of Estonia, is among
the best-preserved historic
cities in Northern Europe.
The city is a compact and
harmonious blend of medieval
and modern architecture.
Maardu
Tallinn TALLINN
(see pp58–87)
Paldiski
Keila
0 km 30
0 miles 30 Kohila
Rapla
Paide
Märjamaa
Kärdla Haapsalu
Türi
Hiiumaa WESTERN ESTONIA
Island (see pp88–105)
Käina
Lihula Vändra
Muhu
Island
Pärnu Sindi
Saaremaa
Island
Kuressaare Kilingi-
Kihnu Nõmme
Island
Gulf of Rīga
Kuressaare
(see p98)
Pärnu (see pp102–3) is the summer capital of

Estonia, thanks to its pristine beach and relaxed,
resort-like ambience. It offers plenty to do and
see, and boasts some stunning architecture. It is
also close to Kihnu Island and two national parks.
The red roofs of Tallinn’s Old Town, with the industrial port beyond
E S TO N I A AT A G L A N C E 47
Lahemaa National Park (see pp110–13), the

largest national park in Estonia, has diverse
terrain criss-crossed by hiking trails. It is dotted
with villages such as Palmse, whose manor
house contains the park’s information centre. Narva (see p116) has a fortified
medieval castle, which illustrates
that the largely Russian-speaking
city was at the frontline of regional
Gulf of Finland power struggles for centuries.
Narva
Jõhvi
Rakvere
Tapa
EASTERN ESTONIA Lake

(see pp106–127) Peipsi
Jögeva
Põltsamaa
Lake Peipsi (see p127) is a huge body of

water bordering Russia. A number of
Tartu settlements with wooden houses mark the
lakeshore. The Old Believers (see p126) live
Lake in numerous little lakeshore villages
Viljandi
Võrtsjärv
Elva
towards the north, while the Setu people
(see p124) live in the southern environs.
Põlva
Karksi-Nuia
Võru
Vastseliina
Valga
Tartu (see pp118–19), Estonia’s second-largest city,

is famed for its university and has an exciting
cultural and nightlife scene. One of its notable
sculptures is of an imaginary meeting between
English writer Oscar Wilde and Estonian writer
Eduard Vilde. The city rivals Tallinn in charm and
splendour, as well as historic significance.
A PORTRAIT OF ESTONIA 49
A PORTRAIT OF ESTONIA
Now presenting a heady mix of medieval heritage and technological advance-
ment, Estonia rebuilt itself in the post-Soviet era, adapting to the demands of
the modern world while preserving a distinct cultural identity. With its rich
historic architecture, natural landscapes and dynamic culture, the country makes
a significant impression on the ever-growing number of visitors that it attracts.
Estonia has had a tumultuous history, a Estonia is sometimes referred to as

result of its geographical position at a e-Estonia due to its reputation for
crossroads between Eastern and Western technological innovation, and is home
Europe. With Russia dominating its to many IT companies. It pioneered
eastern border, Scandinavia surrounding electronic voting and Wi-Fi is available
it to the north and west and the other throughout most of the country.
two Baltic States to its south, Estonia Although the rural areas still lag behind
was considered a prize strategic asset by the cities in raising living standards,
the ruling powers in the region over Estonia has grown into a major travel
the centuries. destination. Its forests and marshlands,
After regaining independence from the pristine islands and traditional villages
Soviet Union in 1991, Estonia was left are as alluring as its capital, Tallinn, a
severely dilapidated. During the long pulsating city with a medieval Old Town.
slog towards NATO and EU membership
throughout the 1990s, the country was Society and Culture
often held up by Eastern Europe as an In general, Estonians are more strongly
example of how to rapidly modernize influenced by Scandinavian culture than
while preserving national heritage and by that of their Baltic neighbours. Finns
improving overall living conditions. and Estonians also share close linguistic
A typical Estonian rural scene, with the bright colours of autumn

One of the five Angla Windmills on Saaremaa Island
life, although hundreds of

years of foreign occupation
led to many people converting
to Christianity, including
Lutheranism and Russian
Orthodoxy. The most important
aspects of Estonian culture are
distinctly pagan in origin. The
hugely popular midsummer
festival Jaanipäev (St John’s
Day), characterized by drinking,
dancing and revelry in the
evening on 23 June and through
to 24 June, has a pagan origin.
Political Life
Estonia underwent a major
political transition in the 1990s,
adopting a parliamentary
democracy which introduced
neo-liberal economic and
political policies.
In the early years of
Participants awaiting their turn at the Estonian Song and Dance Festival independence, there was a
lingering cynicism towards
links through the Finno-Ugric language politics, as many former Communist Party
family. A sizeable Russian-speaking leaders continued to hold high offices,
minority remained in Estonia after the and corruption was a regular part of the
Soviet withdrawal, leading to some dip- political process. This changed in 2000, as
lomatic skirmishes with Russia over the the nation prepared to join the European
years. Today, there are fewer instances of Union and decisions from Brussels now
conflict between Russians and Estonians. have just as much effect as local ones.
Estonians take great pride in their Estonia is governed by a coalition of
heritage. The country’s medieval past is parties. The major parties are the centre-
visible not only in some of its architecture, right Reform Party and the populist
but also in festivals that have their roots in Centre Party, while several smaller parties
that era. Folk culture is central to national often hold the balance of power.
identity, as Estonians were
predominantly reduced to serfdom,
with no right to own land or
property, until the country’s first
spell of independence in 1918. The
Estonian Song and Dance Festival,
which was first held in 1869 and has
since taken place every five years,
remains a significant icon for the
nation, rousing affirmation of
Estonian identity.
Religion does not play a
particularly large part in Estonian Parliamentary session in progress
A PORTRAIT OF ESTONIA 51
Tallinn’s new modern city centre, with the Radisson Blu Hotel (left) and SEB bank buildings (right)
Economy Tourism
Until about 2007, Estonia had a large Tourism has been instrumental in
growth in GDP and low unemployment. transforming Estonia from a drab post-
Its capital, Tallinn, underwent a transition Soviet state into a thriving nation, and the
with the economic boom, with office private sector has been quick to adapt and
towers shooting up and expensive new respond to the business opportunities that
shops and restaurants enjoying good have opened up. Tallinn was inevitably the
trade. The property market boomed, as first part of the country to benefit, but
did the market for new cars, paid for tourism has stimulated a social renaissance
mostly on credit borrowed from in parts of the country that had languished
Swedish banks. in poverty for many years, and towns
This changed with the global financial throughout the country have seen a steady
crisis, which wiped out the growth rate increase in tourism-related investment.
and pushed unemployment beyond Many Estonians fly south for their holidays,
15 per cent. The government cut its although domestic tourism is strong and
spending as it attempted to meet the weekend spa breaks are popular.
economic criteria necessary to
enter the Eurozone, and in July
2010 the EU gave approval for the
adoption of the euro in Estonia
with effect from January 2011.
Income levels are still below
the EU average, although
consumer prices are relatively
similar to those in the richer
western EU countries. The
main industries are real estate,
manufacturing, retail, transport
and communications. There is
also a large focus on information
technology, a sector that has been
breeding start-ups. Tourists enjoying Tallinn’s roof-top panorama from Toompea Hill
ESTONIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
Estonians celebrate a host of seasonal also the time when a series of concerts
festivals through the year. These encompass are held throughout the country, and
everything from religion, folk culture and when the Folklore Baltica Festival (see p136),
handicrafts to art, music, dance and theatre, which showcases the region’s distinct
mak ing the festival calendar both colourful traditional culture, takes place. In addition
and remarkable. Much of the festive frenzy to the annual festivals, a number of
occurs in the summer, peak ing with the commemorative days are observed
Midsummer’s Eve celebrations. Summer is throughout Estonia.
Spring
As is to be expected in a
country so attuned to the
seasons, spring is a joyful time
marked by a lively range of
long-established festivals.
March
Tallinn Music Week (late Mar),
Tallinn. An interesting line-up
of more than 200 acts of differ-
ent music genres and events
in art, design, food and drink.
April
Estonian Music Days (early
Apr). Contemporary Estonian Horse-riders in medieval costumes, celebrating Tallinn Old Town Days
classical music is showcased in
Tallinn and other cities. early May). During this festival, resplendent summers with an
International Choir Festival (one Tartu’s students hold bizarre abundance of festivals to
week, late Apr), Tallinn. As well as concerts, shows and parties welcome in the new season.
a choral contest, concerts are open to everybody.
staged at churches around Tallinn. June
Jazzkaar (late Apr). This big jazz May Midsummer’s Eve (Jaanipäev)
festival held throughout Spring Farm Days (mid-May), (23 Jun). This summer
Estonia includes local and Tallinn. The Estonian Open-Air celebration is marked by
international names. Museum celebrates the a night of joyous drinking,
Tartu Student Days (late Apr– traditional spring farming eating and age-old rituals
tasks, such as growing crops around a bonfire.
and rearing livestock. Pärnu Hanseatic Days (late Jun).
Tallinn Literature Festival This two-day festival includes
(late May), Tallinn. Local and a procession, a crafts fair and a
international authors gather in knights’ tournament.
the Old Town. Juu Jääb Muhu Music
Tallinn Old Town Days (late Festival (late Jun), Muhu
May–early Jun). Tallinn’s Island. A small and enjoyable
medieval past is celebrated with open-air festival of local and
re-enactments of old traditions international music, tending
like jousting. The streets are towards jazz and world music.
filled with market stalls and
people in costume. July
Haapsalu Early Music Festival
(early Jul). Set in the pretty
Summer surroundings of Haapsalu
After the long months of wintry Castle, this is a celebration of
Saxophonist playing at a concert gloom and darkness, Estonians early classical music.
during Jazzkaar make the best of their short but Õllesummer Festival (early
ESTONIA THROUGH THE YEAR 53
Old Town Christmas Market

Autumn (Dec–early Jan), Tallinn.
The festival season winds down Equally popular with tourists and
a bit in the autumn, though locals, the market has a variety of
most cities have a few annual goods on sale from the
events on offer. traditional to the novel.
September January
Credo International Festival Pärnu Contemporary Music
of Orthodox Sacred Music Days (mid-Jan). An outstanding
(early–late Sep), Tallinn. festival of classical music
Orthodox sacred music which also features lectures,
concerts held in churches workshops and theatre
and concert halls. performances.
Matsalu Nature Film
Festival (late Sep). An unusual
Audience watching performers on stage, festival screening the works
Viljandi Folk Festival of various natural history
film-makers.
Jul), Tallinn. This huge beer
festival also features major November
concerts, from jazz to rock, as Black Nights Film Festival
well as sideshows. (mid–late Nov), Tallinn.
Old Town Medieval Market A celebration of some of
(early Jul), Tallinn. An exciting the best independent and
series of concerts, workshops world cinema films, most
and costumed performances, of which are screened with
as well as traditional English subtitles. Tickets
market stalls. can be purchased from
Viljandi Folk Festival (late Jul). Piletilevi outlets. The festival
Folk music ensembles from also runs smaller events in
all over Estonia perform in the other towns.
castle grounds. Skiiers participating in the popular Tartu
Ski Marathon
August Winter
Birgitta Festival (mid-Aug), Despite long and bitterly cold February
Tallinn. Operas, concerts and spells, winter also holds Baroque Music Festival (early–
recitals are held in the the promise of a wonderful mid-Feb), Tallinn. A festival
atmospheric ruins of Pirita snow-blanketed landscape and favourite offering a series of
Convent. Food is served on a season of festivity. Baroque music concerts in
the summer terrace. various venues around the
SAAL Biennial (late Aug), December Old Town.
Tallinn. A biennial celebration Christmas Jazz Festival Tartu Ski Marathon (mid–late
of the best in contemporary (early Dec). A series of jazz Feb). This hugely popular
dance, including guest concerts held in Tallinn and ski-fest features events and
performances by famous several other towns in the run-up competitions, but the high-
international troupes. to Christmas. light is the 63-km (39-mile)
ski marathon.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Independence Day (24 Feb)
Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
May Day (1 May)
Võidupüha Victory Day
(23 Jun)
St John’s Day (24 Jun)
Restoration of
Independence (20 Aug)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
A brightly illuminated Christmas tree in the Old Town Christmas Market, Tallinn
THE HISTORY OF
ESTONIA
Historical references to Estonia date from the early 13th century, when the German
crusading knights arrived, introducing a new social order in which the Germans
dominated for several centuries. A brief but benevolent period of Swedish rule in the
17th century was followed by Russian and German oppression, which continued
with a short-lived inter-war independence. Estonia became a republic only in 1991.
The German crusading order, the their land given away to the Knights
Brotherhood of the Sword, started and bishops. The feudal system, in
a bitter struggle for control of which the Germans owned
Estonia that lasted from 1208, manor estates and the locals
when they established their hold were obliged to work as serfs,
over Otepää, until 1211. The Danes, survived until the 19th century.
too, were contending for control. Fragment of a seal of Danish Tallinn was acquired again by the
In 1206, they tried in vain to sub- King Valdemar II Germans in 1346, when large-
jugate Saaremaa, the country’s largest and scale protests against feudal exactions forced
most prosperous island. Denmark’s King the Danes to relinquish their possessions in
Valdemar II (r.1202–41) occupied Tallinn in Estonia. During this time, many guilds and
1219, but his attempts to expand Danish merchants’ associations emerged, and towns
territory further were unsuccessful. such as Tallinn, Tartu, Viljandi and Pärnu
thrived as members of the Hanseatic League.
German Conquest Tallinn, particularly, prospered as one of
In 1227, the whole of Estonia had been Northern Europe’s largest towns.
conquered. In 1237, the Brotherhood of the
Sword was absorbed into another crusading
order, the Teutonic Knights, who controlled
Tallinn until 1238, when it was returned to
the Danes. The Knights took over a stone
castle built by the Danes and rebuilt it as the
Toompea Castle the same year. The found-
ations for a new social order were laid, with
the Germans serving as the nobility, as well
as merchants and craftsmen. The Estonians
were forcibly converted to Christianity and An impression of Tallinn’s Toompea Castle in 1227
Detail, Town Hall

1343 Peasants’ 1372 German Pharmacy door
1208 Germans capture Otepää uprising replaces Latin
in southern Estonia 1422 Tallinn Town Hall
(St George’s as the official
Pharmacy opens on site,
1227 Germans conquer
Night) against written
where it still operates today
all of Estonia the Danes language
1200 1300 1400 1500
1346 Danes sell

1219 Danes Tallinn to 1574 First Lutheran service
seize Tallinn the Germans preached in Estonia at St
Olav’s Church in Tallinn
St Olav’s Church, Old Town, Tallinn

THE HISTORY OF ESTONIA 55
as well as curbing use of the Estonian

language. The resulting discontent among
the intelligentsia found expression in the
rebellion led by the students of Tartu
University in the late 19th century.
In 1905, as in many other places in Russia,
Estonia witnessed widespread unrest. In the
towns, factory
workers lent support
to the nascent
Tartu University, Estonia’s prestigious seat of learning Bolshevik movement,
while several German
The Swedish Rule manors were burned
The 16th century saw Estonia as the major down in the country-
battleground between Russia and Sweden in side. During World
the Livonian Wars (see p37). By 1629, the War I (1914–18), the
whole country was in Swedish hands. The prospects for Estonian
Swedes achieved much over the next independence
50 years, including the establishment of Tartu seemed bleak.
University, the introduction of schools all However, the 1917 Estonian Army recruiting
around the country, printing of books in Revolution that poster, 1918
Estonian and the construction of several ended the Tsarist regime in Russia and the
buildings, especially in Narva and Tartu. Narva chaos that followed in Moscow, encouraged
was built as the second Swedish capital. The Estonia to declare independence in February
social system created by the Germans was left 1918, in Pärnu. The Treaty of Tartu, signed
undisturbed, however. Later Swedish kings with Russia in February 1920, formally
interfered by seizing German-owned estates, confirmed Estonian independence.
incurring the wrath of the Germans who
turned to Russia’s Peter the Great for help.
Struggle Against the Russians

The Swedish troops were initially able to
resist the Russians, but in 1709, the final
battle between the Swedish king, Charles XII,
and Peter the Great sealed Estonia’s fate for the
next 200 years, during which time there would
be little threat to Tsarist rule. The Russians
as well as the Baltic Germans actively kept
Estonians out of any positions of responsibility, Declaration of independence in February 1918, Pärnu
1885 Russification of
1710 Treaty of Nystadt brings 1872 The first the Baltics begins
Estonia into the Tsarist Empire strike organized
1632 Opening of 1918 Declaration of
Tartu University by by the women Estonian indep-
Swedish Lutherans of Narva endence signed
1600 1700 1800 1900
1629 Estonia passes into 1920 Treaty of Tartu

Swedish hands 1869 First Estonian Song confirms Estonia’s
Festival held in Tartu independence
1886 First Estonian newspaper,
Postimees, launched 1905 Uprisings in Tallinn
Diamond order of Peter the Great
by many in Estonia as a sort of liberation.

Tallinn-born Alfred Rosenberg, who was
appointed by Nazi Germany to run the Baltic
States, treated the general population less
harshly than his counterparts in other
countries subjected to Nazi occupation. In
September 1944, the advancing Red Army
President Konstantin Päts (centre) in 1939 returned to Estonia, forcing the Nazis to
surrender, and Estonia once again became
Freedom and World War II part of the Soviet Union.
Although there were 20 coalition govern-
ments between 1919 and 1933, they all Soviet Estonia
agreed to immediately distribute the The 10 years which followed the Soviet
Baltic-German landholdings among the local reoccupation were traumatic for Estonia. The
community. Education and state pension deportation programme, restarted in 1944,
systems were introduced nationwide. People saw its climax in March 1949 with the arrest of
who had been active in the national move- 20,000 Estonians. The Soviets wanted to curb
ment before World War I took senior positions any opposition to the establishment of
in government. The most prominent of collective farms. The deportations were also
these politicians was Konstantin Päts, who meant to sabotage the successful guerrilla
staged a coup in February 1934 and dissolved campaign run by the Forest Brothers, a
Parliament, although he began to restore resistance group active until the early 1950s
democratic institutions in 1938. For most throughout Estonia. Stalin’s death in 1953 led
Estonians day-to-day life was hardly to a slightly less oppressive regime in Estonia,
affected by these develop- as it did throughout the
ments. Industry, agriculture USSR. From the 1960s,
and international trade Estonia’s link with the
continued as before. Päts non-Soviet world began
ruled until the Soviet inva- to grow. A ferry link
sion on 16 June 1940, which between Tallinn and
brought a sudden and Helsinki was started
brutal end to independent twice a week. The 1980
Estonia. The Russians Moscow Olympics turned
executed several prominent out to be invaluable for
Estonians, including Päts Estonia because it
himself, and many others staged the yachting
were deported to Siberia. events, which brought
The German invasion, which Soviet tanks thwarting the Germans’ landing attempt thousands of foreign visi-
came a year later, was seen in Estonia in September 1941 tors to Tallinn. As a result,
1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact

1921 Flights puts Estonia under USSR Estonia’s Tallink ferry service
from Tallinn linking Tallinn and Helsinki
1934 Bloodless
to Stockholm 1941 Nazi Germany
coup staged by 1965 A ferry linking Tallinn and
begin occupies Estonia
Konstantin Päts Helsinki begins sailing
1925 1935 1945 1955 1965
1944 Return of 1964 Finnish president

1924 Coup 1937 The navy Soviet forces; visits Estonia
attempted by acquires its Stalinist era begins
Estonian first British- 1940 Soviet 1953 Stalin dies; Soviet oppression
Communists built submarine occupation begins slightly relaxed
THE HISTORY OF ESTONIA 57
Independence
The years 1992 and 1993 turned out
to be a challenging time for Estonia.
The immediate reintroduction of the
kroon as the national currency wiped
out savings accumulated in Soviet
roubles and inflation was not
immediately curtailed. Prime Minister
Mart Laar, who served his first term
from 1992 to 1994, coined the phrase
“the little country that can” and it
Olympic torch inaugurating the yachting events held in 1980, Tallinn did, very quickly. Many suffered
temporarily, as factories closed and
foreign newspapers, direct-dial international collective farms were abandoned, but few
phone calls and a range of consumer suffered long-term as tourism, Finnish
goods not seen in Tallinn since 1940 were assembly plants and international call
introduced. After the Games, all these quickly centres quickly absorbed any spare labour.
disappeared, but the memory of them did Returning to power in 1999, Laar was able
not; frustration with the USSR turned in the to steer the country out of the financial
1980s to total disillusionment as Finnish TV crisis that stemmed from the collapse of
showed the different lifestyle Russia’s economy in 1998.
being enjoyed just 50 km From 2000 onwards, Estonia
(31 miles) from Tallinn. enjoyed record growth and
When Mikhail Gorbachev increased prosperity. Many
came to power in 1985 as public works projects were built
General Secretary of the with European Union funds and
Communist Party of the Soviet foreign banks gave generous
Union, Estonians took private loans. This ended with
advantage of his liberal policies the global financial crisis in 2008,
to revitalize the cultural scene and although Estonia was not as
and to restructure factories badly affected as other Baltic
and small businesses. Plans to Former Estonian prime minister nations, the economy slowed
reform the economy were Mart Laar considerably. In July 2010,
made, the key element of which was the Estonia was given approval to enter the
introduction of a stable currency. At the Eurozone. In January 2011 the euro
time of the collapse of the USSR in 1991, replaced the kroon as legal tender.
Estonians were better prepared, at least in Relations with Russia have improved
theory, for a capitalist economy than were markedly, although diplomatic, cultural
any of the other Soviet republics. and even trade hiccups still occur.
1980 Olympics sailing 2011 The euro replaces the

and yachting events open President Lennart Meri (1929–2006)
kroon as Estonia’s currency;
in Tallinn Toomas Hendrik Ives
2004 Estonia
1992 Lennart Meri re-elected president for a
joins NATO
elected as president and EU second term
1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1991 Estonia 1994 Russian troops 2007 World’s first

declares withdrawn; MS Estonia national Internet
independence sinks, claiming 850 lives election held
Pirita Yachting Centre, venue for

1980 Olympics yachting events
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION 59
TALLINN
In a little over 20 years, the Estonian capital has grown into
a dynamic, chic and exciting city. An architectural wonder,
Tallinn has some stunning examples of modern architecture
that reflect the newfound confidence of its people. In
addition to restoring the medieval architecture of its Old
Town, the city has experienced a major construction boom.
An overview of Tallinn from Toompea Hill Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
shows how the city has made the best since 1991, is a living monument to this
of its extraordinary historic foundations. golden period of Tallinn’s history. Tallinn
Tallinn first appeared on the Western was relatively stagnant during the Tsarist
European map in 1154. The city came Russian period, which began in 1710
to be known as Tallinn after the Danes under the rule of Peter the Great. For
conquered it in 1219 and built a most of the 19th century, it was little
stronghold on Toompea Hill. “Tallinn” is more than a summer resort for wealthy
an abbreviation of the Estonian name Russians. However, the introduction of
Taani Linnus, meaning “Danish the Tallinn–St Petersburg railway in 1870
stronghold”. However, Tallinn officially restored the city’s former glory as a
bore the Teutonic name of Reval until major trading centre. During the
Estonia’s first period of independence Soviet occupation a vast influx of
in 1918. With the arrival of German predominantly Russian-speaking
merchants in 1230, the city was divided workers swelled Tallinn’s population.
into the Upper Town (Toompea) and Since independence in 1991,
the Lower Town. improved air and sea transport links with
In 1346, the Danish king sold Tallinn to Western Europe has made Tallinn easily
Germany. The city flourished in the 14th accessible. The city has forged close ties
and 15th centuries, when it was one of with neighbouring Finland and the
the leading members of the powerful Tallinn–Helsinki ferry line is among
Hanseatic League. The brilliantly restored the busiest in the world.
Diners at an alfresco restaurant at the heart of Old Town in Tallinn

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral with its striking onion domes
Exploring Tallinn
The vast majority of sights in Tallinn are
concentrated in and around Town Hall Square
and Toompea, in the medieval Old Town.
Relatively easy to explore on foot, the winding
cobbled streets are dotted with elegant back
alleys, courtyards and spired churches, as well
as fascinating museums that present the
city’s historic and cultural traditions. There
are also many notable buildings around the
fringes of the Old Town, all within easy walking
distance. On the eastern section of the city wall, The imposing towers of Viru Gate, one of
Viru Gate serves as one of the main access the best-known landmarks in Tallinn
points into the Old Town. I
UM
ASI
TO RNI DE
GUMNA
VÄLJAK
S U UR- K LOO ST R I
Central Railway Station

150 m (170 yards)
N
U
N N
E
Sights at a Glance
N U N N E
Churches and Monasteries
K IR
IK U P ÕI K
HTU
3 Holy Spirit Church I P I K

K
TL
KO
VO
6 Niguliste Church pp68–9 ÜÜ OR
HU
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OM EH
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0 Dominican Monastery TO
E
PIIS
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OP
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r Church of the Transfiguration IAE

D TU
JA
EV
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of Our Lord KO
KK
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A
NK
DU
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TOO M-KOOLI
t St Olav’s Church KIRIKU

S
PLATS
TA
o Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

RA
p Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin

RUTU NIGULISTE
LG
JA
G
Museums IKK
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KE
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HI
4 Great Guild Hall

LÜ
RÜÜT
5 Museum of Estonian
Photography LOSSI
LI
PLATS
J U
7 Museum of Theatre and Music TA A N I

LO S S I
H A R
K U N IN G A
q Tallinn City Museum G A RD EN
e Estonian Museum of Applied
P L AT S
F A L G I T E E
Art and Design K OM
AN
DA
ND RÜÜTLI
a Museum of Occupations I T
E E
f Adamson-Eric Museum
Historic Buildings and

Sights of Interest
1 Town Hall Harj umägi
TOOM
VABADUS E
VÄL JAK
2 Town Hall Pharmacy
PEA
8 Viru Gate
9 St Catherine’s Passageway
TEE
w House of Blackheads IES
PU
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y Three Sisters K AA
u Fat Margaret Tower
i Toompea Castle
s Knights’ House
d Kiek-in-de-Kök
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp314–16
TA L L I N N 61
Ferry Terminal
500 m (550 yards) 0 metres 200
0 yards 200
E
TE
ÄE
I
LA
AM Key
NN
RA
K
P I K
Place of interest
I
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Pedestrian street
O
TO
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I
L A
LA
I OL
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UM
SU
IST
RI E
U
O
U U S
R
TO PA
T
RA
Ü
O GA
K
AB RI
I
A V
ID A
IM
I
G
A U
Ä
IM
V
LE
O
K
I K
P
I
L A
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VE
MU
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HA
U U S
PÜ
NE
Fat Margaret Tower, a formidable 16th-century fortification,

MÜ
VE
ND
APTEE now housing the Estonian Maritime Museum

I
GI
K AT
A R II
RAEKOJA NA
K Ä IK
PLATS
Getting Around
RA
EKO
Walking is the best way to explore Tallinn’s Old Town.
JA
VIRU However, public transport is required to see some
RG A
HE
major sights, such as Kadriorg Park east of the Old

TU AN
V
RIVA
GA
K UNIN Town, as well as Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanical
Gardens, which are all situated to the northeast of
ÜÜ
A
N
U
Kadriorg Park. The city’s public transport system is a

SA
I
L L
V
Ä network of buses, trolleybuses and trams. Nearly all
V A
IK
E-
KA buses and trolleybuses leave from Vabaduse Square
R
or the Viru Keskus terminal, while most tram lines pass

JA
V
A
NA
-P
by the Old Town. Tallinn has transport links with all
OS
TI major towns and cities in Estonia.
E
I VAH
M ÜÜR
E
E
T
N
A
A
USE VÄ
LJAK M
VABAD
U
N
R
PÄ
Lennart Meri
Tallinn Airport
4 km (2.5 miles)
The city’s skyline, as seen from Toompea Hill

Street-by-Street: Around
Town Hall Square
In the heart of the Old Town, the magnificent Town
Hall Square has, for centuries, served as a marketplace.
Gently sloping, the cobblestoned square is surrounded by
a ring of elegantly designed medieval buildings. The early
14th-century Town Hall is Northern Europe’s only surviving
late Gothic town hall. A meeting point for locals and visitors, Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp86–7
the square captures the essence of the Old Town. In summer,
it is filled with the tables of open-air cafés and restaurants.
House of
Blackheads
q Tallinn City Museum

Housed in a medieval
MU
merchants’ house, this
PÜHAVAI
museum presents Tallinn’s
history through a variety
of fascinating exhibits
and artifacts.
PI
KK
KIN GA
EHE
RIM
2. Town Hall Pharmacy V
OO
Worth a visit just for the impressive interior, this
long-running pharmacy also has a charming little
museum displaying old curiosities.
I
DUN KR
Key
Suggested route
3 Holy Spirit Church

Regarded as one of Tallinn’s most
attractive churches, this splendidly
0 metres 100
preserved structure houses a
treasure trove of medieval and
0 yards 100 Renaissance features.
TA L L I N N 63
0 Dominican Monastery
Among Tallinn’s oldest buildings, this monastery complex also
includes an atmospheric museum which has some beautiful
stone carvings.
Viru Street
One of the most famous streets in the
Old Town, Viru Street is packed with a
variety of restaurants, bars, cafés and shops.
M
Ü
Ü
RI
VA
H
E
V
E
N
E
SA
IR
UN
V
1. Town Hall
Taking pride of place in Town Hall
Square, this imposing Gothic building
5 The Museum with an octagonal tower has been the
of Estonian focus of civic life since the Middle Ages.
Photography has
SUUR K A an extensive
RJA
collection housed
A
in two buildings.
NG
NI
KU
I
ST
H
PO
A
TE
NA
R
JU
VA
IS
UL
6 Niguliste Church
IG
This remarkable Gothic

N
church is now a Tallinn

landmark boasting an
excellent museum of
religious art. The
R church holds organ
ü recitals every weekend.
ü
TL
I
1 Town Hall modest museum with a small Its whitewashed exterior

Tallinna raekoda selection of historical exhibits includes the oldest public clock
Raekoja plats 1. Map 1 C2. Tel 645 including medical instruments in Tallinn, with carvings dating
7900. @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open Jul– and curative treatments. Ask from 1684. The stepped gable
Aug: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat; Sep–Jun: to try the spiced wine, which is topped by a striking Baroque
by appointment. Tower: May–Aug: was a popular purchase in tower. The spire was nearly
11am–6pm daily. & 8 - medieval times. According to destroyed by fire in 2002,
∑ tallinn.ee/raekoda a local legend, marzipan was but was restored within a year.
accidentally created here and Inside, the church is a treasure
One of the most revered named Martin’s Bread. trove of religious artifacts and
symbols of Tallinn, the Town Hall architecture, from the
dates back to 1404. Its high- magnificently intricate Baroque
pitched roof is supported by pews to the Renaissance-era
two tall gables and a late- pulpit. The sublime altar
Renaissance spire crowns triptych, The Descent of the Holy
the slender octagonal tower. Ghost (1483), by Lübeck artist
The narrow windows and Berndt Notke, is the main
crenellated parapet complete highlight. The church holds a
the building’s impressive special place in Estonian history,
appearance. Facing Town Hall as the first Estonian-language
Square, a vaulted arcade runs sermons were delivered here in
along the north façade, where a 1535 following the Reformation.
small café puts out tables in the
summer. Inside, it is possible to
see the Citizens’ Hall and the 4 Great Guild Hall
Council Hall, although most Suurgildi hoone
visitors head straight for the
Pikk jalg 17. Map 1 C2. Tel 696 8690.
tower and the 115-step ascent @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open May–Sep:
to the top. 10am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–
Graceful Baroque tower of the Holy 6pm Thu–Tue. & =
Spirit Church ∑ ajaloomuuseum.ee
2 Town Hall
Pharmacy 3Holy Spirit One of the most important
Raeapteek Church buildings in medieval Tallinn, the
Pühavaimu kirik Great Guild Hall was constructed
Raekoja plats 11. Map 1 C2.
Tel 5887 5701. @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4.
in 1417. It was owned by a
Pühavaimu 2. Map 1 C2. Tel 646 4430.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat. = @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open Oct–Apr: powerful union of wealthy
∑ raeapteek.ee 10am–2pm Mon–Fri; May–Sep: 9am– merchants. The building holds
5pm Mon–Sat. & 5 1pm Sun (in a significant place in the city’s
The Town Hall Pharmacy is English); 6pm Mon (music hour). history. It was mainly used as the
famed for being one of the ∑ eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu gathering place for its members
oldest pharmacies in Europe. but at times it was also rented
The building’s exterior dates The 13th-century Holy Spirit out for wedding parties and
back to the 17th century, Church is one of the most court sessions. It was the
but there is evidence that a beautiful churches in Tallinn. starting as well as the end point
pharmacy existed on the site as The Gothic building served as of most festive processions in
long ago as 1422. In one corner the Town Hall chapel before Tallinn. The late Gothic building
of the shop’s interior there is a being converted into a church. has retained its original appear-
ance through the centuries,
although the windows were
remodelled in the 1890s.
The Great Guild Hall’s majestic
interior provides a perfect setting
for a branch of the Estonian
History Museum (see also p82).
The museum’s collection of
historical artifacts covers Estonian
history from the Stone Age to the
mid-19th century in fine detail.
The exhibits, which include
everything from jewellery to
weaponry, are accompanied by
explanatory texts in Estonian,
Interior of the Town Hall Pharmacy, with well-stocked shelves Russian and English.
TA L L I N N 65
Medieval Architecture
Tallinn’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval architecture in
Northern Europe. With its winding cobblestoned streets and rows of elegantly gabled
façades, the Old Town retains the true character of a medieval town centre. The
labyrinthine street structure developed in relation to the power seat of Toompea above
and the harbour below, with the all-important Town Hall Square and marketplace at
the heart of it. Although Tallinn flourished as a centre of trade in medieval times, it was
relatively quiet in the 19th century, which is probably why the Old Town was spared from
demolition. Tallinn’s medieval fortifications are also very well preserved, with some
2 km (1 mile) of the town wall and half of the original 46 towers still intact.
The gabled upper storey

was used for storage,
with a winch used to hoist
up merchandise.
A model of a medieval
merchant’s house can
be seen at the Tallinn
City Museum (see p67),
a 14th-century
building. The upper
storey was used to store
merchandise, and
guests were entertained
on the first floor.
Medieval towers are famous symbols of

the city’s history. Kiek-in-de-Kök (see p75)
and Fat Margaret Tower (see p71) are now
museums. Visitors can get a view of the
area by climbing the adjoining Nunna,
Sauna and Kuldjala towers.
Saiakang alley, which is just off Town Hall Square, is

one of the narrow medieval streets and passageways
that make the Old Town so fascinating.
Lühike jalg, also known

as the “Short Leg”, is a
steep, atmospheric
passageway that was
built in the 13th century
as a link between the
stronghold of Toompea,
or the Upper Town, and
the rest of Tallinn. In the A dragonhead waterspout can be
Middle Ages, a number seen just below the Town Hall’s roof.
of coppersmiths This, and the other waterspouts on the
and locksmiths had Town Hall’s façade, are fine examples of
their workshops on the mischievous details that adorn
Lühike jalg. many of Tallinn’s medieval buildings.
The display, which includes rare programmes. The papers and

daguerreotypes, ambrotypes instruments of the eminent
and ferrotypes, showcases Estonian composer Peeter Süda
some of the finest works by (1883–1920) form a small part
well-known early Estonian of the museum’s collection.
photographers, including The staff are happy to play the
H Tiidermann, B Lais and instruments for a small fee. The
N Nyländer. Pride of place is museum owns the copyright
given to the tiny Minox camera to the work of composer
which was reputedly invented Heino Eller (1887–1970)
in Estonia in 1936. The gallery and since 1998, it has been
also hosts temporary exhibitions awarding the prestigious
of contemporary works. Heino Eller Music Prize to
distinguished figures.
An 1898 photograph, Museum of
Estonian Photography 6 Niguliste Church
Niguliste kirik 8 Viru Gate
5 Museum of See pp68–9. Viru tänav. Map 2 D3. @ 5, 40.
Estonian v 1, 2, 3, 4.
Photography On the eastern section of the
Fotomuuseum 7 Museum of city wall, the Viru Gate serves
Raekoja tänav 4/6. Map 1 C3. Tel 644 Theatre and Music as one of the main access
8767. @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open Teatri-ja muusikamuuseum points into the Old Town. Its
Mar–Oct: 10:30am–6pm Thu–Tue; picturesque, slightly skewed
Müürivahe 12. Map 1 C3. Tel 644
Nov–Feb: 10am–5:30pm Wed–Mon. stone towers are one of Tallinn’s
& 8 = ∑ linnamuuseum.ee
6407. @ 5, 40. v 3, 4. Open Sep–
May: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Jun–Aug: best-known sights. The pair of
10am–6pm Mon–Sat. & towers that make up the gate
Tucked away behind the Town 8 call in advance. ∑ tmm.ee were built in the 14th century
Hall, the Museum of Estonian and were part of a larger
Photography consists of two This museum focuses on a gatesystem. The surrounding
separate buildings, one dating much-loved part of the country’s stretch of city wall dates back
back to the 14th century and cultural heritage, and also serves to the 16th century. A moat
the other to the 18th century. as an academic centre. Founded and water mill, which once
They once served as the town in 1924, the music museum existed between the foregates
prisons and were also used was combined with a theatre and the main gate, were
to hold court sessions. The museum in 1941. There is much demolished in 1843. In the early
buildings now house an for music and theatre aficionados 20th century, Viru Street was
extensive collection of Estonian to enjoy, from a fine selection of regarded as one of the city’s
photography, covering the folk instruments to a collection most fashionable and is now
period from 1840 to 1940. of original theatre production a major tourist spot.
Stone towers of the Viru Gate, one of the most iconic sights in Tallinn
TA L L I N N 67
9 St Catherine’s q Tallinn City

Passageway Museum
Katariina käik Tallinna linnamuuseum
Katariina käik. Map 2 D2. @ 5, 40. Vene 17. Map 1 C2.
v 1, 2, 3, 4. Tel 615 5195. @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4.
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Wed–Mon.
A fascinating medieval & - ∑ linnamuuseum.ee
alleyway with uneven stone
walls and overhead vaulting, Located in a 14th-century
St Catherine’s Passageway joins merchant’s house, the Tallinn
Vene and Müürivahe streets. City Museum was opened in
A string of arts and crafts 1937 to introduce locals to
workshops line the passage, the city’s rich cultural heritage.
where it is possible to watch Today, the vast collection,
resident artisans working set over three floors, offers
with jewellery, ceramics and a fascinating overview of
glass or binding books. A well at the medieval Dominican Tallinn’s history. Highlights
The passage runs along the Monastery, Old Town include a cutaway model of a
surviving wall of St Catherine’s 16th-century merchant’s house
Church, which was built in monastery and forced the and a fine model recreating
1246. The church was Tallinn’s monks into exile. In 1531, a fire a 19th-century domestic
largest in its day and several damaged most of the dese- interior. There is also a replica
gravestones, some dating from crated St Catherine’s Church, model of Old Thomas, the
the 14th century, still line this which had formed its famous weather vane that
narrow passageway. south wing. sits atop the Town Hall
After suffering neglect for four steeple. The floors are
centuries, the ruined monastery interspersed with lifelike wax
was renovated in 1954. Today a figures, dressed in period
serene cloister, its atmospheric costumes. Also on view are
passageways and pretty inner collections of silverware,
garden draw visitors. The star porcelain and pewter and
attraction, however, is the numerous tapestries.
fine Dominican Monastery The museum’s display of
Museum, with Estonia’s largest 20th-century exhibits includes
collection of medieval and photographs of the vast
Renaissance stone carvings by crowds that congregated in
local stonemasons. One of the the Old Town after Estonia
prominent works, a decorative regained its independence
relief of an angel on a triangular from the Soviet Union in 1991.
slab, is attributed to Hans von One of the main draws is the
Aken, the 16th-century German intriguing exhibit entitled
Mannerist painter. The Town That Will Never Be
Ready. It was inspired by a local
The medieval St Catherine’s Passageway, E Dominican Monastery legend that claims Tallinn
home to arts and crafts workshops Museum will disappear the moment
Open mid-May–mid-Sep: 10am–6pm someone proclaims it is finally
daily. & completed as a city.
0 Dominican
Monastery
Dominiiklaste klooster
Vene 16/18. Map 2 D2. Tel 515 5489
or 511 2536. @ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4.
Open No regular opening hours.
Call to arrange a visit. & 8 tour
offered to the monastery’s inner
chambers through the cloister. =
∑ kloostri.ee or ∑ claustrum.eu
Founded by Dominican monks

in 1246, this monastery was a
renowned centre of learning.
It thrived until the Reformation
riots broke out in 1524. The
Lutherans destroyed the Model of Tallinn from the 1820s displayed in the Tallinn City Museum
6 Niguliste Church
Niguliste kirik
Dedicated to St Nicholas, Niguliste Church was originally built
in the 13th century, although nearly all that remains today is
from the 15th century. Most of Tallinn’s medieval artworks
were destroyed in the Reformation riots of 1524. However,
according to legend, Niguliste Church escaped being
ransacked due to the laudable efforts of the church warden,
who sealed the door with melted lead. Today, Tallinn’s most
impressive collection of medieval religious artworks are
housed here. The building has served as a museum ever since
it was extensively rebuilt during Soviet times after being
damaged by Soviet air raids in World War II. The church
regularly holds organ and choral concerts. Exterior of the Niguliste Church, one of
Tallinn’s medieval treasures
. Altarpiece Depicting St Nicholas

Painted in 1482 by Hermen Rode of
Lübeck, this superbly detailed
altarpiece shows a variety of scenes
from the life of St Nicholas, as well as
the beheading of St George.
Altar Triptych of
St Mary and
the Brotherhood
of Blackheads
The main panel
shows St George
and St Maurice
standing beside
the Madonna, while
St Francis and
St Gertrude stand
in the wings.
KEY
1 The Silver Chamber is located in

the far corner of the church.
2 A collection of bells from
churches all over Estonia is displayed
inside the church.
3 The spire, originally built in 1696,
was finally restored in 1984.
Stone Figure
4 Bernt Notke’s frieze Danse This sculpture is one of
Macabre, which is kept inside the the wonder fully evocative
church, depicts the universality stone figures that are part
of death. of the original design of
Niguliste Church. Entrance
TA L L I N N 69
Stone Carving
A stone skull and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
crossbones can be seen
at the entrance to the Practical Information
chapel, near the church’s Niguliste 3. Map 1 C3.
main door. Stone Tel 631 4330. Open May–Sep:
carving, a vital element 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
in Estonian architecture, 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & tickets
was largely done in available until 4:30pm (call 644
dolomite and sandstone. 9903). 8 book in advance; extra
charges for guided tour (up to 35
people) in a foreign language.
Silver Chamber: Open 10am–5pm
Wed–Sun. 8 extra charges (up
to 10 people). Organ Music: Sat &
Sun at 4pm for 30 mins.
. Bernt Notke’s Danse Macabre

The 15th-century frieze by Bernt Notke
(1440–1509) is widely considered the pièce
de résistance of the church. Only a fragment
of the 30-m (98-ft) original remains.
Display, the Silver Chamber

This small side chamber contains a
fascinating display of ornate silverware
that belonged to various guilds and
organizations, such as the influential and
wealthy Brotherhood of Blackheads.
Dancing with Death

Part of a 15th-century frieze
by Bernt Notke, Danse
Macabre is considered one of
Estonia’s most prized works
of art, as it is the only known
surviving example of its
genre on canvas. Skeletal
figures of death are shown as
enticing a king and his nobles
to dance along with them. No
one knows exactly how the
painting came to Tallinn, but it
is possible that Notke had
reproduced a similar frieze he
completed in 1461 in his native
Lübeck in Germany. Detail showing a king
of porcelain, dating from the

1930s to the 1960s, by the
legendary Estonian artist
Adamson-Eric (see p75).
Since the museum opened
in 1980 it has done a formidable
job of promoting Estonian
design at home and abroad.
Be sure to pick up a copy of the
map, which highlights some
notable examples of public
design around Tallinn.
r Church of the
Transfiguration of
Our Lord
Issandamuutmise kirik
Suur-Kloostri 14–1. Map 1 C2. Tel 565
1090. @ 3. v 1, 2. Open 9am–2pm
Sun. ^ 510am Sun.
∑ teelistekirikud.ekn.ee
Located close to a stretch of the

medieval city wall, the secluded
Renaissance-era House of Blackheads, with ornate front door Church of the Transfiguration
of Our Lord has an impressive
w House of regularly hosts chamber music Baroque-style spire and a richly
Blackheads concerts in its elegant main decorated interior. The church
Mustpeade maja hall, which is noted for its originally belonged to St
wood-panelled interior. Michael’s Convent of the
Pikk 26. Map 1 C2. Tel 669 9947. Cistercian Order but was closed
@ 5, 40. v 1, 2, 3, 4. Open only for down during the Reformation.
chamber music concerts (call for Briefly serving as a church for
timings). ∑ mustpeademaja.ee e Estonian the Swedish garrison, it was
This 15th-century Renaissance Museum of Applied handed over to the Orthodox
building was the meeting Art and Design Church in 1716 during the rule
place of the Brotherhood of Eesti tarbekunsti ja of Peter the Great, who donated
Blackheads, an association disainimuuseum the extraordinary iconostasis by
of unmarried merchants and Russian architect Ivan Zarudny.
Lai 17. Map 1 C2. Tel 627 4600.
shipowners who were then @ 3. v 1, 2. Open 11am–6pm
The church also has a bell
able to join the more power ful Wed–Sun. & = ∑ etdm.ee dating from 1575, the oldest
Great Guild upon marriage. in Tallinn.
The unusual name was derived Housed in a converted
from the North African 17th-century granary, the
St Maurice, the organization’s Estonian Museum of Applied
patron saint, whose image can Art and Design features the
be seen on the ornate front best in Estonian design from
door of the building. the early 20th century to the
Unlike their counterparts present day. The vast selection
in Rīga (see p152), the Tallinn of exhibits, which include
Blackheads were obliged to jewellery, ceramics, glass, furni-
defend the city in times of ture and textiles, is a splendid
strife and proved themselves example of the pride that
especially formidable adversaries Estonia takes in applied arts.
during the Livonian Wars Many of the exhibits meld
(1558–83). However, in general, Scandinavian-style refinement
it seems that the wealthy young with subtle Baltic irony to
Blackheads lived somewhat excellent effect. Some of the
leisurely and hedonistic lives. fantastic examples of furniture
The association survived until are especially eye-catching and
the Soviet invasion in 1940, and a delight for art enthusiasts. Baroque spire of the Church of the
today the House of Blackheads There are also some fine pieces Transfiguration of Our Lord
TA L L I N N 71
the vaulted ceiling is impressive u Fat Margaret

and the church tower has Tower
a viewing platform with breath- Paks Margareeta
taking vistas of the city. The
exterior rear wall features an Pikk 70. Map 2 D1. Tel 641 1408. @ 3.
elaborately carved 15th-century v 1, 2. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
& 8 call in advance. =
tombstone of Johann Ballivi, a
∑ meremuuseum.ee
victim of the plague.
The 16th-century tower’s
evocative name derives from
y Three Sisters the fact that it was the largest
Kolm õde part of the city’s fortifications,
with walls measuring 4 m
Pikk 71. Map 2 D1. @ 3. v 1, 2.
(13 ft) thick. It was originally
built to defend the harbour
Situated at the northern end
as well as to impress visitors
of Pikk Street, the Three Sisters
arriving by sea. Later, the tower
are three adjoining medieval
was transformed into a prison
merchants’ houses that have
Tallinn and the Baltic Sea, as seen from been tastefully converted and was the scene of an
St Olav’s Church outbreak of violence during
into a single luxury hotel (see
the 1917 Revolution, when the
p297). The houses were built
t St Olav’s Church prison guards were murdered
in 1362 and were functional
Oleviste kirik commercial premises, by a mob of workers, soldiers
and sailors.
complete with loading hatches
Lai 50. Map 1 C1. Tel 641 2241. @ 3.
v 1, 2. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm and winches to hoist sacks Fat Margaret Tower now
daily. & 5 ∑ oleviste.ee of goods up and down. The serves the more peaceful
function of housing the
houses’ original owners, who
St Olav’s 124-m (407-ft) spire is were mostly guild elders, town
Estonian Maritime Museum
a major Tallinn landmark and councillors and burgomasters,
(Eesti meremuuseum), with a
the church holds a proud place also used their premises to curious collection of nautical
in local history. The legend entertain foreign guests whom
paraphernalia spread out
goes that Tallinners they met on their
over four storeys. The exhibits
wanted to build business trips abroad.
include an insight into
the tallest spire in the The elegant gabled
shipbuilding and historical
world to attract houses are amongaccounts of Estonia’s harbours.
merchant ships and the best-preserved
There is also a scale model
a complete stranger buildings from the
of the Estonia, the car and
promised to help 14th century andpassenger ferry that sank
them. As payment form a valuable between Tallinn and
he wanted the city Detail of stone carving on addition to the Stockholm in 1994. There are
people to guess his rear of St Olav’s Church magnificent surround-
gorgeous views of the Old
name. When the ings of Pikk Street.
Town and Tallinn’s harbour and
church was nearing The Three Sisters Hotel proudly
bay from the top of the tower.
completion, the city fathers counts the UK’s Queen
sent a spy to his home and Elizabeth II and the singer E Estonian Maritime Museum
found out his name. They Sting among its many famous Pikk 70. Tel 641 1408.
called out “Olev” when he was past guests. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
fixing the cross and he lost his
balance and fell. In fact, the
name of the church was in
homage to King Olav II of
Norway. The original 159-m
(522-ft) spire made the church
the tallest building in the world
until a lightning strike burned it
down in 1625. Amazingly, the
church was struck by lightning
six times and burned down
twice between then and 1820.
The original 16th-century
structure of the church was
renovated extensively in the
19th century. St Olav’s interior is
not especially striking, although The Seaplane harbour at the Estonian Maritime Museum
Street-by-Street: Toompea
Set on Toompea Hill, some 50 m (164 ft) above sea level,
Toompea lies southwest of the Old Town. It dates back to the
13th century, when the Danes erected a stone castle on the site.
The hill has changed hands many times over the centuries, but
still remains enclosed in the impressive limestone fortifications
built during the Livonian Wars (1558–83). The eclectic complex
of Toompea Castle now houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s Locator Map
Parliament, in Castle Square. The centre of the square is
dominated by the imposing Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
Toompea Hill offers a spectacular view of the Old Town and
makes an ideal starting point for a tour of Tallinn.
Pikk Hermann Tower
LI
O
O
K
M
i. Toompea Castle O
O
This hilltop castle compound comprises T
several architectural styles, from
medieval stone towers to a vibrant
pink Baroque façade.
TS
A
L O
K
P
S
II
I
P
S
S
LO
PI
K
K
JA
KO
MA
ND
AN
o . Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

DI
Tallinn’s most grandiose Russian Orthodox

TE
cathedral was named after the war hero who

E
victoriously led Russian soldiers into battle at Lake

Peipsi in 1242.
Kiek-in-de-
Kök Museum
entrance
d. Kiek-in-de-Kök
The superbly preserved medieval
cannon tower now houses a large
museum on Tallinn’s history.
TA L L I N N 73
p Cathedral of
St Mary the Virgin
Originally built as a
wooden church by
the Danes in 1240,
St Mary’s is the oldest
church in mainland
Estonia. Most of its
austere Gothic
exterior, however,
dates from the
14th century.
Patkuli Viewing Platform

One of Toompea’s secluded hideaways,
this picturesque spot has great pano-
ramic views of the Old Town’s red roofs
as well as of the harbour.
Key
Suggested route
KI
RI
KU
PL
AT
I
P
O
KO
HTU
AL
G
The Kohtuotsa viewing

Pikk Jalg Gate Tower
platform, swarming
With a striking red roof, the tower
with postcard sellers and
at the end of cobbled Pikk jalg
tour groups, looks out
dates from the 14th century.
over the Old Town.
0 metre 100
0 yards 100
0 Knights’ House
The Neo-Renaissance building
was built in 1848 to serve as the
headquarters of the Knighthood,
the then local aristocracy. The
well-preserved interior is a blend
of various styles.
of the Russification policies

carried out by Alexander III, it
was due to be demolished in
1924, but the controversial plan
was never carried out.
The extravagant altar is made
up of a dazzling display of
icons, while the sheer scale
of the cathedral’s interior is
equally impressive.
p Cathedral of
St Mary the Virgin
Toomkirik
Toomkooli 6. Map 1 B2. Tel 644 4140.
v 3, 4. Open Jun–Aug: 9am–5pm
daily; Sep–May: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
5 5pm Wed, noon Sat, 11am Sun.
∑ eelk.ee/tallinna.toom
Popularly known as Dome

Church, St Mary’s is believed to
be the oldest church in Estonia.
It was built in 1240 by the Danes
and underwent extensive
rebuilding over the years. The
somewhat plain Gothic exterior
dates from the 14th century,
while the beautiful interior
boasts an elaborate Baroque
The Neo-Byzantine Alexander Nevsky Cathedral pulpit and a widely admired
organ built in 1878. Other
i Toompea Castle privileges until 1878, when it significant features include 107
Toompea loss was officially merged with aristocratic coats of arms and the
the rest of the city below. fine Renaissance tomb of the
Lossi plats 1a. Map 1 B3. Tel 631 6345.
v 3, 4. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
French-born mercenary Pontus
8 call in advance. 7 ^ de la Gardie, who captured
∑ riigikogu.ee
oAlexander Narva for the Swedes from the
Nevsky Cathedral Russians in 1581, during the
The elegant and unassuming Aleksander Nevski katedraal Great Northern War (1558–82). In
pink Classical façade of this vital
Lossi plats 10. Map 1 B3. Tel 644
seat of power belies its history. 3484. v 3, 4. Open 8am–8pm Sat,
The castle is now home to 8am–7pm Sun–Fri. 5 8:30am
Riigikogu (Estonia’s Parliament), Mon–Sat, 10am Sun. ^ =
but for some 700 years it ∑ teelistekirikud.ekn.ee
belonged to various occupying
foreign powers. In the 9th The imposing Alexander Nevsky
century, a wooden fortress Cathedral was built between
stood on the site, which was 1894 and 1900, under the
conquered by the Danes in orders of Tsar Alexander III. As
1219, who then constructed the intended, the Neo-Byzantine
stone fortifications around the edifice dominates Castle Square
hill, much of which still survive. with its towering onion domes
The architecturally diverse and golden crosses.
castle complex features the Legend has it that the
50-m (164-ft) Pikk Hermann cathedral was built on the grave
Tower, above which flies the of the Estonian folk hero Kalev.
Estonian flag. The unique- It is named after the sainted
looking Riigikogu building, Russian duke Alexander Nevsky
which was built in 1920–22, (1219–63), who defeated the
is situated in the castle court- Livonian Knights on the banks
yard. Toompea as a whole of Lake Peipsi in 1242. Disliked Intricately designed Baroque pulpit,
enjoyed its own rights and by many Estonians as a symbol Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin
TA L L I N N 75
1684, the church was badly

damaged in a fire that swept
Toompea and had to be sub-
stantially reconstructed. Today,
the church remains at the very
heart of Estonian Lutheranism.
aMuseum of
Occupations
Okupatsioonide muuseum
Exterior of the 19th-century Knights’ House, now a venue for concerts
Toompea 8. Map 1 B3. Tel 668 0250.
v 3, 4. Open 10am–6pm daily. &
8 call in advance. 7 - = which occasionally hosted and now houses a five-floor
∑ okupatsioon.ee concerts, is currently closed to museum devoted to Tallinn’s
the public. history. The highlights include
This comprehensive museum medieval artillery and a
provides a look at life in Estonia plague doctor’s protective
under both the Nazi and Soviet d Kiek-in-de-Kök uniform.
occupations. The fascinating Komandandi 2. Map 1 B3. Tel 644
exhibits include examples 6686. v 3, 4. Open Mar–Oct:
of bureaucratic paperwork, f Adamson-Eric
10:30am– 6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:
gut-wrenching accounts 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 call Museum
of mass deportation and 644 6686 for a guided group tour of Lühike jalg 3. Map 1 C3. Tel 644 5838.
execution, as well as posterart secret tunnels under the bastion. = v 3, 4. Open May–Sep: 11am–6pm
propaganda, which was an ∑ linnamuuseum.ee Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 11am–6pm Wed–
essential weapon for the Sun. & 8 group tours of 10–35; call
occupying forces. One of the strongest cannon in advance. ^ allowed only without
The open-space museum towers in 16th-century the flash. = ∑ adamson-eric.ee
remembers the countless Northern Europe, Kiek-in-de-
victims of the occupations, Kök was built in 1475 as Located in a medieval house
and its symbolic location Toompea’s main bastion. on a narrow stairway con-
at the foot of Toompea adds The tower stands 38 m necting the Old Town
a certain poignancy. It was (125 ft) tall and its with Toompea, the
partly founded by Kistler-Ritso, walls are 4 m (13 ft) Adamson-Eric
an Estonian World War II thick. The curious Museum is a branch
refugee to the United States. Low German name of the Art Museum
He donated 2 million dollars means “to peek into of Estonia.
to the museum, the largest the kitchen”, Adamson-Eric (1902–
private donation in suggesting that 68) is one of the key
Estonian history. soldiers had a good Painted porcelain plate, figures of 20th-century
vantage point over Adamson-Eric Museum Estonian art. His
the enemy. Some, idiosyncratic and
s Knights’ House however, believe that they diverse body of work spanned
Rüütelkonna hoone literally peeked into people’s several decades and influenced
kitchens. The tower fell into countless artists after him.
Kiriku plats 1. Map 1 B2. v 3, 4.
disuse in the mid-18th century The Tartu-born artist was
Built in 1848, the Knights’ primarily a painter, but also
House originally served as a worked with ceramics, metal
meeting place for the knight- forms, jewellery and leather,
hood, an influential segment among other media. Although
of the Toompea gentry. It was he held several prominent
home to the Foreign Ministry positions in various Soviet art
during the first independent committees during the latter part
republic, which lasted from of his life, he was thrown out of
1920 to 1940. During Soviet the Communist Party in 1949 and
times, the building housed the forced into factory work for four
Estonian National Library. years. After suffering a stroke in
It temporarily accommodated 1955 and losing the use of his
the main collection of the right hand, he taught himself
Art Museum of Estonia before to paint using his left hand.
it moved to its new permanent The collection on display was
home in the Kumu Art Museum Bitter Death, a cannon replica displayed in donated to the Art Museum of
(see p80). The building, Kiek-in-de-Kök Estonia by the artist’s widow.
Exploring Beyond the Old Town 1 Estonian Drama

There is much more to Tallinn than its tourist-packed Old Theatre
Town. A little way east is Kadriorg Park, with its splendid Eesti draamateater
palace, the Kumu Art Museum and the nearby Song Festival Pärnu mnt 5. Tel 680 5555.
Grounds. Further east is Maarjamäe Palace, which houses @ 5, 36, 40. v 3, 4. Open 10am–
5pm Mon–Fri. & 7 ^ -
the Estonian History Museum. A little further north of this
∑ draamateater.ee
lies the fascinating Pirita Convent. A short distance west of
the Old Town is the Estonian Open-Air Museum with some This popular theatre occupies
of Estonia’s oldest rural architecture. The well-connected one of the most striking
suburb of Nõmme to the south is also worth exploring. buildings on the fringes of the
Most places are within easy reach of public transport. Old Town. Built in 1910 as a
German-language theatre, it
was purchased by the Estonian
Drama Theatre in 1939.
The elegant Art Nouveau
Baltic
Sea exterior includes rustic-style
features in a manner unique to
E
TE
the Baltic States. Under Soviet

TA
SO
RI
Tallinn
O
occupation, the theatre’s name
PI
PÕH Ferry Terminal

JA PST
NA RVA MAA N
was changed to the Tallinn
T EE T EE
ÄE
AM Drama Theatre, in an effort to
NN
MERE PST
RA AH U KR I
TR TU E remove nationalist affinities asso-
K
E
I NTE
P IK
Ä
MAA M
VA
JÕE
NAR
SN
A
ciated with it. However, in 1989 it
LA
J V
VIR U
E reverted to its original name.
U
TE
IL
HARJ
NA
MSI
E AG The theatre is the largest in

TE LA
KSI
M A AN
Estonia, with a 40-member

ON
0 km 5
PR
company and an average of

U
0 miles 5
RN
JUH 500 performances per season.

PÄ
KE
LA I A
L I I VA NT A
LI The productions are usually in
Baltic
Sea
Estonian, with rare exceptions
during theatre festivals.
V EE
N TEE
RENN
MAA
E
NU
E
T
PÄR
A
AN
EV
Lennart
0 metres 800 Meri Tallinn
V
Lake Airport
R
Ülemiste
JÄ
0 yards 800
8 Maarjamäe Palace
t Estonian Open-Air Museum
Key
Grand entrance of the Estonian
Historic Buildings Drama Theatre
Central Talinn
3 Rotermanni Quarter and Salt
Motorway
Storage Warehouse 2 Estonian National
Main road
6 Russalka Memorial Opera
Minor road
9 Soviet War Memorial Rahvusooper Estonia
0 Pirita Convent
Estonia pst 4. Tel 683 1215. @ 5, 36,
q TV Tower
40. v 3, 4. Open 11am–7pm daily
Sights at a Glance Parks and Gardens (box office). & 7 ^ -
∑ opera.ee
5 Kadriorg Park pp78–81
Theatres, Concert Halls
w Tallinn Botanical Gardens The imperious bulk of the
and Museums
Estonian National Opera
1 Estonian Drama Theatre Islands and Suburbs
dominates the view along the
2 Estonian National Opera e Lasnamäe stretch of Estonia Avenue that
4 Energy Centre r Nõmme skirts the eastern edge of the
7 Song Festival Grounds y Aegna Island Old Town. The sprawling building
TA L L I N N 77
Imposing façade of the Estonian National Opera
houses the Estonian National Rotermann, a 19th-century 4 Energy Centre

Opera and its ballet company industrialist, and was a major Tehnika-ja teaduskeskus
in one wing and the Estonian industrial hub before most of Põhja pst 29. Tel 620 9020. @ 3.
National Symphony Orchestra its factories and warehouses fell v 1, 2. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Fri,
in another, while the Winter into disuse and disrepair during 11am–7pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^
Garden is regularly used to host the Soviet era. In 2007 the ∑ energiakeskus.ee
state functions. district underwent a
The Estonian major redevelopment. Situated in a former power
National Opera was Several buildings station, the Energy Centre is an
completed in 1913, with brave enormous museum that forms
through public architectural part of the Tallinn Science and
donations, and was designs were Technology Centre. It has
intended to serve as constructed to numerous interactive exhibits
an impressive house boutique which are used to demonstrate
showcase for Estonian shops, offices the rudiments of science.
culture that would Charles Abraham and restaurants. The centre is charmingly
overshadow similar Rotermann The impressive old-fashioned and relies on
German and Russian limestone building the joy of learning through
institutions in Tallinn. In recent of the Salt Storage Warehouse, entertainment, rather than the
years, the opera company has located nearby, is home to slick presentation and hi-tech
gained an outstanding inter- the Museum of Estonian gadgetry used by most modern
national reputation and its Architecture. It was once used science institutes. There is an
cutting-edge productions can as the city’s salt warehouse, and especially enjoyable array of
be seen for a fraction of the price today, it houses a range of hands-on exhibits downstairs.
visitors would pay in most architecture-related exhibits, The centre also hosts various
European capitals. spread out over its vast three- other more serious science-
floor interior. related exhibitions and seminars.
3 Rotermanni
Quarter and Salt
Storage Warehouse
Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum
Ahtri 2. Tel 625 7007. @ all buses
to Viru Bus Terminal. v 1, 2, 3, 4.
Museum of Estonian Architecture:
Tel 625 7007. Open 11am–6pm
Wed–Sun. & 8 7 ^ =
∑ arhitektuurimuuseum.ee
The Rotermanni Quarter is

situated east of Mere Avenue
on the fringes of Tallinn’s port
area and within comfortable
walking distance of the Old
Town. The district is named
after Charles Abraham Salt Storage Warehouse, home to the Museum of Estonian Architecture
5 Kadriorg Park
Kadriorg Park is one of Tallinn’s most interesting features
outside the Old Town. It centres on the magnificent
18th-century Baroque palace built as a summer residence
for Peter the Great and boasts a wealth of small museums,
historic monuments and art galleries. The park stretches for
1.5 km (1 mile) from its southwest corner to the northeast.
It is a popular and picturesque place for a leisurely stroll.
The elegant and affluent residential streets near the south
entrance are also well worth a look and include museums
dedicated to Eduard Vilde and Anton Hansen Tammsaare, Statue of Friedrich Reinhold
Kreutzwald
two of Estonia’s most prominent 20th-century literary figures.
This grand statue honours
the writer of Kalevipoeg,
considered the founding work
of Estonian literature.
Swan Lake
The Swan Lake is one of the
park’s focal points, although its
elegant island pavilion is
mostly enjoyed by swans.
Anton Hansen Tammsaare Museum

The museum offers an insight into how the
writer Tammsaare (1878–1940) lived and also
exhibits his literary works and personal items.
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
Eduard Vilde Memorial Museum

This attractive summer house serves as a living
memorial to one of Estonia’s most revered writers.
Vilde lived and worked here until his death in 1933.
TA L L I N N 79
2 km (1 mile) E of the Old Town.
70-
Transport
@ 1a, 5, 8, 19, 34a, 35, 38.
v 1, 3.
. Kadriorg Palace
Peter the Great’s Baroque palace now houses the Estonian Russalka Memorial
Art Museum’s foreign collection. However, the museum’s This imposing
main exhibits are displayed at the Kumu Art Museum. monument (see p82)
commemorates the
sinking of the
Russalka near
Finland in 1893.
President’s Palace Peter the Great House Museum

The great Russian Tsar once
used this cottage as a
temporary residence.
. Kumu Art Museum

Arguably the most
architecturally impressive
Mikkel Museum museum in the Baltic States,
The small museum is the magnificently designed
renowned for its porcelain Kumu houses the main exhibits
vases and beautiful figurines. of the Estonian Art Museum.
Exploring Kadriorg Park collecting art during the inter-

war period and over the years
With forested paths, statues and ponds, Kadriorg Park is a amassed a valuable private
charming place to explore. The surrounding area has a collection that is today consi-
number of beautiful houses and manicured gardens and is dered one of the best in Estonia.
The exhibits range from the
also associated with art because of the museums, such as the
16th to the 20th centuries and
Kumu Art Museum and Mikkel Museum, located here. Nearly include an impressive selection
all the park’s main sights are on, or close to, Weizenbergi. of porcelain vases and figurines.
Kadriorg Park is not very large and it is quite easy to cover its There are some fine examples of
entire length on foot. Located a short distance from the Old classical European art, such as
Town, the park and its quiet neighbourhood are, nevertheless, Portrait of Thomas Chaloner
(1620), attributed to the Flemish
a pleasant 30-minute stroll away. Regular buses and trams painter Anthony Van Dyck.
connect Kadriorg Park with the Old Town.
E Kumu Art Museum
Weizenbergi 34. Tel 602 6000.
Open Apr–Sep: 11am–6pm Tue,
Thu–Sun, 11am–8pm Wed; Oct–Mar:
11am–8pm Wed, 11am–6pm Thu–Sun.
& 8 7 0 - = ∑ kumu.ee
The Kumu Art Museum is the
Estonian Art Museum’s first
purpose-built building; it was
designed to provide a fitting
home for the museum’s main
collection. The structure is built
into a limestone bank on the
edge of Kadriorg Park and is a
The attractive garden of Kadriorg Palace work of art in itself.
The museum’s enormous and
P Kadriorg Palace Johannes Mikkel (1907–2006), beautifully designed interior is a
Weizenbergi 37. Tel 606 6400. whose collections are exhi- labyrinth of artistic discovery,
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue, bited in the Mikkel Museum, with one exhibition hall leading
Thu–Sun, 10am–8pm Wed; Oct–Apr: donated some 600 works of to another. The exhibits in the
10am–8pm Wed, 10am–5pm Thu– foreign art to the Estonian Art rooms are arranged in chrono-
Sun. & 8 7 - = ∑ ekm.ee Museum in 1994. The museum logical order. Among the many
This palace was built in 1718 boasts a fine selection of delights on show, Konrad Mägi’s
under the orders of the Russian European painting. However, brilliantly coloured canvases
Tsar Peter the Great, its main attraction is stand out as a wonderful
who intended it to the astonishingly example of early 20th-century
serve as a summer ornate Great Hall, Estonian art. Eduard von
residence for the which ranks among Gebhardt’s Sermon on the Mount
royal family. It was the finest examples (1904) is another painting to
later named in of Baroque exuber- relish for both its epic excellence
honour of his wife ance in Northern
Catherine. Kadriorg Europe. The well-
Palace was designed manicured orna-
in the Northern mental garden with
Baroque style by Portrait of Thomas Chaloner fountains behind
the famous Italian by Van Dyck the palace is also
master architect open to the public.
Nicola Michetti. The Russian
emperor intended the three- E Mikkel Museum
winged palace to look like an Weizenbergi 28. Tel 601 5844.
Italian villa, and no expense Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue,
was spared in creating a Thu–Sun, 10am–8pm Wed; Oct–Apr:
magnificently lavish building 10am–8pm Wed, 10am–5pm Thu–
in the Italian Baroque style Sun. & 8 ∑ ekm.ee
of which he was so fond. Located in the former kitchen
After undergoing extensive of Kadriorg Palace, the Mikkel
renovation, the palace now Museum comprises the private
houses the Estonian Art collection of the art collector Row of busts on display in a room at the
Museum’s foreign collection. Johannes Mikkel. He began Kumu Art Museum
TA L L I N N 81
and subtle irony. The fourth floor

is devoted to a permanent
Eduard Vilde (1865–1933)
exhibition entitled “Difficult Author of Estonian classics such as The
Choices”, exploring the complex War in Mahtra and The Milkman from
relationship between art and the Mäeküla, Eduard Vilde is one of the
Soviet state, while the fifth floor is most revered figures in Estonian
given over to the best in literature and is generally credited
contemporary art. However, the as being the country’s first
most striking exhibition of all is professional writer.
the room filled with hundreds of Vilde spent a great deal of time
travelling abroad and he lived for some
busts eerily staring into space.
time in Berlin in the 1890s, where he was
influenced by materialism and socialism.
His writings were also guided by the
naturalism of the French writer Emile Zola Eduard Vilde,
(1840–1902). In addition to being a writer, writer and diplomat
Vilde was also an outspoken critic of Tsarist
rule and of the German landowners. With the founding of the first
Estonian republic in 1919, Vilde served as a diplomat in Berlin for
several years. He spent the last years of his life editing and revising
an enormous volume of his collected works.
E Anton Hansen Tammsaare’s life and work.

Tammsaare Museum The collection of almost 6,000
Koidula 12a. Tel 601 3232. artifacts includes several
Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sat. & photographs, letters and
8 ∑ linnamuuseum.ee manuscripts and even the
Catherine I’s bedroom, Peter the Great Anton Hansen Tammsaare writer’s death mask.
House Museum (1878–1940) is Estonia’s most
important literary figure. His E Eduard Vilde Memorial
E Peter the Great House five-volume epic Truth and Museum
Museum Justice takes a sweeping look at Roheline aas 3. Tel 601 3181.
Mäekalda 2. Tel 601 3136. Open May– Estonian society from the 1870s Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sat. &
Aug: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Sep–Apr: to the 1930s. 8 ∑ linnamuuseum.ee
10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & The museum is situated in the The Eduard Vilde Memorial
∑ linnamuuseum.ee attractive wooden house in Museum is housed in a Neo-
This museum is housed in the Kadriorg where the novelist and Baroque summer house beside
17th-century cottage which his wife lived from 1932 until his Kadriorg Park which was
the Russian emperor used as death in 1940. The building was presented to the writer as a
a summer residence while converted into a museum in 60th birthday gift by the
Kadriorg Palace was being built. 1978. On the first floor is the Estonian government.
The cottage was purchased couple’s five-room flat, while a Vilde was one of Estonia’s
along with the surrounding separate wing serves as a most prolific writers, and his
land in 1713 and was enlarged museum dedicated to works amount to a staggering
with an additional wing so that 33 volumes. The museum
it contained a hall, a kitchen showcases the six-room flat
and four rooms. where Vilde lived with his
After Peter the Great died in wife from 1927 to 1933. The
1725, his successors opted to authentic furnishings are
stay in the more lavish Kadriorg accompanied by period art
Palace and the cottage fell into pieces and provide a fascinating
disrepair until Alexander I look at literary life in Tallinn in
ordered it to be restored after the 1920s. It is said that Vilde
a visit to Tallinn in 1804. The could often be seen enjoying
house contains few remains of long talks with his neighbour,
Peter the Great’s time, but it still the famous writer A H
affords an intriguing glimpse Tammsaare, in the nearby park.
into the life of the enigmatic The museum has been in
ruler. The bedroom has a four- existence since 1946 and is
poster bed and a pair of slippers an interesting monument.
which supposedly belonged to The balusters of the wooden
the Tsar himself. There is an staircase, dating from the turn
exhibition in the basement Exterior of the modest A H Tammsaare of the 19th and 20th century,
about his life and achievements. Memorial Museum have survived.
6 Russalka
Memorial
Near the junction of Pirita tee & Narva
mnt. @ 1a, 34, 38. 7
This imposing memorial was
erected in honour of the 177
soldiers who drowned when
the Russian ship Russalka, or
“Mermaid”, sank en route to
Finland in 1893. Designed by
the renowned Estonian sculptor
Amandus Adamson (1855–
1929), the monument was
erected in 1902. It features a
bronze angel standing on
tiptoe, holding aloft an
Orthodox cross. The pedestal on
which the angel stands is made
of roughly hewn blocks of
granite, evoking stormy sea Aerial view of the impressive shell-like Song Festival Bowl
conditions. The monument is
one of several locations around been a strong symbol for recreations of domestic
Tallinn which young couples Estonians ever since thousands interiors. The 1940s and 50s are
visit to be photographed on of people gathered here during represented by army uniforms,
their wedding day. the 1988 Song and Dance photographs and weapons.
Festival in a show of unity There is an original hut used by
against Soviet occupation. the Forest Brothers (see p122),
In summer, the venue hosts the legendary partisans who
concerts, as well as the Beer fought against the Soviet
Festival. The 42-m (138-ft) high occupation, and a replica of a
Light Tower beside the Song desk used by a Communist
Festival Bowl offers good views Party secretary.
of the Old Town. On weekday Visitors can go to the back of
evenings, the tower is used as the palace to see some of the
a climbing post. gigantic Soviet-era bronze
monuments lying there in an
8 Maarjamäe unceremonious heap.
Palace E Estonian History Museum
Pirita tee 56. Tel 622 8600. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
@ 5, 34, 38. Closed for renovations Research: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
until 2018. & 8 call in advance.
Angel with an Orthodox cross, standing ∑ ajaloomuuseum.ee
atop the Russalka Memorial An elegant Neo-Gothic summer
house, Maarjamäe Palace was
built in 1874 by the Russian
7 Song Festival Count Orlov-Davydov. The
Grounds building has since served
Lauluväljak as a consulate, a hotel and
restaurant, and a base for
Narva mnt 95. Tel 611 2102. @ 1a, 5, trainee pilots as well as the
8, 34a, 38 (to Lauluväljak); 19, 29, 35, Soviet army. However, today
44, 51, 60, 63 (to Lasnamägi). it houses another branch of
Open daily. 7 ∑ lauluvaljak.ee
the Estonian History Museum
The centrepiece of the Song (see also p64).
Festival Grounds is the Song The museum, inaugurated in
Festival Bowl, the large, shell-like 1987, picks up where its counter-
amphitheatre built in the 1960s. part in the Old Town leaves off,
During the four-yearly Estonian in the mid-19th century, to
Song and Dance Festival, the cover the political and social
stage holds up to 15,000 choral upheavals of the 20th century.
singers, with room for many The exhibits include historically Maarjamäe Palace, housing a branch of the
more on an extra platform. It has costumed mannequins and Estonian History Museum
TA L L I N N 83
Peter the Great (1672–1725)

Russia had long coveted Estonia as a much-needed outlet to Western Europe, but it
was Peter the Great who finally achieved this. When the Treaty of Nystad ended the
Great Northern War between Russia and Sweden in 1721, Estonia finally fell under
Russian control. The Russian Tsar visited Tallinn 11 times during his reign and left an
impressive legacy behind. From the magnificent Kadriorg Palace (see p80), which was
built as a royal summer residence, to the reconstruction of the ports in Tallinn and
Paldiski, Peter the Great’s formidable influence is still visible. The Tsar so loved Estonia
that he once remarked, “If Tallinn and Rogewiek [Paldiski] had been mine in 1702, I would
not have established my residence and the capital of European Russia on the low-lying
river Neva but here.”
The epic battle of Narva took place in 1700 between Russia

and Sweden during the Great Northern War. It ended in a
Peter the Great is represented as severe loss for Peter the Great, but by 1721, Russia had defeated
a great statesman in this portrait the Swedes to become the dominant regional power.
by Hippolyte Delaroche, painted
in 1838. The Tsar’s political
intelligence and military prowess
turned Russia into a major
European power.
The cottage in Kadriorg Park (see p81)

was used by Peter the Great and his wife
Catherine I as a summer residence while
Kadriorg Palace was being built. The
cottage is now a museum.
Catherine I (1684–1727)
Originally named Marta Skavronskaya, Catherine I was a
Lithuanian peasant’s daughter and is thought to have been
born in present-day Estonia. A beautiful girl, Marta joined the
household of Prince Aleksandr Menschikov, who introduced her
to Peter the Great in 1703. They became lovers soon after that.
In 1705, she converted to Russian Orthodoxy, whereupon she
changed her name to Catherine. The couple lived a modest
life in a two-room log cabin during the construction of
St Petersburg and were secretly married in 1707. In 1709,
Catherine gave birth to Elizabeth, who later ruled Russia from
1741 to 1762. In 1724, Catherine was officially declared co-ruler
Portrait of Catherine I, painted by of the Russian Empire with her husband. Kadriorg (see pp78–81),
Jean-Marc Nattier in 1717 or Catherine’s Valley, was named in her honour.
9Soviet War
Memorial
Maarjamäe
Pirita tee. @ 1a, 5, 8, 34a, 38. 7
The Soviet War Memorial is a

typical example of Soviet war
monuments in both its grand
scale and rather kitsch
appearance. The 35-m (115-ft)
obelisk at the centre of the
complex was erected in 1960
to commemorate the Russian
sailors who died in 1918, during
World War I. The surrounding
features were built in the 1970s,
in memory of the Soviet soldiers
killed in 1941 under the Nazi
onslaught. In a dilapidated state
today, the site includes an eerie
concrete amphitheatre and
large concrete and iron figures.
A German cemetery filled
with stone crosses lies just
behind the memorial site,
serving as yet another reminder Pirita Convent, screened by trees, with the cemetery in the foreground
of the fierce struggle for control
over the region. lodgings in their home, contin- off between Estonians and Soviet
uing a tradition that has existed troops in 1991, which was resol-
for hundreds of years. ved peacefully when the Soviet
0 Pirita Convent troops withdrew. The tower is an
Pirita klooster amazing spectacle and hosts an
Merivälja Tee 18. Tel 605 5044. @ 1a,
q TV Tower advanced interactive exhibition.
Teletorn There are great views from the
5, 8, 34a. Open Nov–Mar: noon–4pm
observation deck, especially
daily; Apr–May: 10am–6pm daily; Jun– Kloostrimetsa 58a. @ 34a, 38.
with its new Walk on the Edge.
Aug: 9am–7pm daily; Sep–Oct: 10am– Open10am–7pm daily. 7 - =
6pm daily. & ∑ piritaklooster.ee ∑ teletorn.ee
Founded in 1407 by the St Inaugurated in 1980, the 314-m wTallinn Botanical

Bridget Order, Pirita Convent (1,030-ft) tall TV Tower, or Tallinn Gardens
was consecrated in 1436. It Tower, was designed as an Tallinna botaanikaaed
served as the largest convent impressive demonstration of
Kloostrimetsa tee 52, 10 km (6 miles)
in then Livonia (present-day superior Soviet engineering. NE of city centre. Tel 606 2666.
Estonia and northern Latvia), It was the scene of a tense stand- @ 34a, 38. Open Apr–Sep:
until it was badly damaged in 11am–6pm; Oct–Mar: 11am–4pm. &
a siege by Ivan the Terrible 8 7 ∑ botaanikaaed.ee
in 1577. Over the following
decades, the convent was Located in a beautiful stretch
reduced to a skeletal structure, of woodland, the Tallinn
as locals plundered it for Botanical Gardens have an
building materials. In the exotic palm house as the main
17th century, a cemetery was attraction. Adjoining the palm
established in the compound. house are several greenhouses
Despite centuries of neglect containing a superb selection
and oblivion, the impressive of rare orchids and fascinating
ruins retain some splendour. cacti. The outdoor collections
The most striking feature is the include a rose garden, an
perfectly intact 35-m (115-ft) arboretum, a limestone rock
high gable and the walls of the garden and a permanent
main hall. The site is run by display of “useful plants”.
Bridgettine nuns, who live in a The grounds are located in a
state-of-the-art, award-winning The TV Tower, a brilliant example of protected area of the Pirita River
building close by. The nuns offer Russian engineering Valley and have a designated
TA L L I N N 85
4-km (2-mile) nature trail that buildings from all around the
goes through a lush range of country. The exhibits range
habitats, from dry meadows from the 18th to the
to pine forests. 20th centuries and give a
fascinating picture of how
rural architecture developed in
e Lasnamäe Estonia over the years. There
5 km (3 miles) NE of Tallinn.
are wooden windmills,
thatched barns, a village inn
A vast Soviet-era suburb and an 18th-century wooden
founded on a limestone plateau church alongside numerous
in 1977, Lasnamäe houses farmsteads and outbuildings.
almost a third of the city’s A variety of activities are
population. The industrial part offered, including nature trails
of the district is centred around and horse and carriage rides,
Peterburi Street. Seemingly while regular music and
endless rows of housing blocks theatre productions are held
are lined up beside Laagna Baron von Glehn Castle in lush here too. Annual highlights
Street, which is a smaller road surroundings, Nõmme include the Midsummer’s Eve
that passes through the celebrations (see p52) and the
so-called “Canyon”, a road an impressive sight. The castle is Autumn Fair.
blasted through limestone. only open for special events but
The ambitious plans for the the surrounding park, with
making of Lasnamäe were never some particularly eye-catching y Aegna Island
finished and several aborted statues, can be visited any time. Aegna saar
building projects that abruptly 14 km (9 miles) NE of Tallinn.
came to a halt when Estonia + Baron von Glehn Castle
g from Pirita Harbour.
broke away from the Soviet Vana-Mustamäe tee 48. Tel 652 5076.
Union, can still be seen. Open by appointment only. The tiny 3-sq-km (1-sq-mile)
Although there is little of island of Aegna is situated in
interest, the area as a whole is a the northeastern part of Tallinn
strangely impressive sight and t Estonian Open- Bay. It has pristine sandy
offers an intriguing glimpse of a Air Museum beaches and unspoiled nature,
side of the city that most visitors Eesti vabaõhumuuseum which may, however, be the
rarely see. target of future development.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. Tel 654
9100. @ 21, 21b. Open May–Sep: The few traces of human
10am–8pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am– activity that can be found are
r Nõmme 5pm daily. & 8 call in advance. almost all military. There was a
8 km (5 miles) S of Tallinn. £ from 7 - = ∑ evm.ee cannon battery here during
Tallinn. @ 14, 18, 33. Tsarist rule, and after being briefly
One of the few major sights used by the Estonian army
The beautiful residential district outside the city centre, the during the country’s first period
of Nõmme was developed as a Estonian Open-Air Museum is of independence, Aegna became
suburb after a railway station situated in the sprawling a closed Soviet military zone.
opened there in 1872. Soon after, grounds of the former Rocco The island is now governed by
wealthy Tallinners began building al Mare summer estate, with a Tallinn City Council and improved
elegant summer villas with stunning backdrop of Kopli Bay. ferry links have led to a steady
spacious gardens, and by 1926, The museum is an enormous increase in visitors. It is a popular
the area had grown sufficiently village made up of historic rural place to pitch a tent in summer.
to officially become a town.
However, in 1940 the Soviets
incorporated it into Tallinn.
Today, Nõmme is one of the
most attractive areas of the city,
with its own outdoor market,
historic centre, cafés and
restaurants, and some fine
museums. The Kristjan Raud
Museum is dedicated to the
artist who illustrated the epic
poem Kalevipoeg, while the
Baron von Glehn Castle, built
by a Baltic-German landlord
who largely founded the area, is Old wooden house by the sea, Estonian Open-Air Museum
PÕH
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FI
HER N E
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION 89
WESTERN ESTONIA
The region enjoys some of the country’s most stunning natural
landscapes and is also historically entwined with the Estonian
national identity in countless ways. The erratic, time-worn
coastline is punctuated with numerous places of cultural
interest as well as some lively summer resorts, while the
archipelago is remarkable for its unspoiled, timeless beauty.
Estonia’s history has, to a large extent, occupation in the form of countless

been shaped by its west coast. Swedes crumbling buildings that once served
settled in large numbers on the islands the enormous submarine base there,
and around Haapsalu, as they were in while the beautiful cliffs around the
the path of Nordic trading routes. Peter peninsula make it a wonderful place for
the Great seized Estonia and, in 1718, hiking. The whole coastline is dotted
built a port and naval base at Paldiski with tiny, picturesque villages, while
because he wanted a “window into the countless manor houses, medieval
West”. In Soviet times, the coastline churches, iconic lighthouses and other
served as a heavily guarded border zone. places of interest are strewn throughout
Western Estonia’s main coastal town this region.
is Pärnu, in the south, the country’s Of the Estonian islands, Saaremaa is
“Summer Capital”. Further north, Haap- both the largest and the most popular.
salu was a stylish resort during the 19th The island of Vilsandi is the remotest
century and has remained every bit as of all of Estonia’s national parks but,
attractive today. Soomaa National Park, covered with interesting sights, it is
which lies just inland, is an enchanting one of the most rewarding to visit. The
waterworld of bogs and rivers, while islands of Hiiumaa, Vormsi and Muhu are
Matsalu National Park is one of the less developed but their rugged beauty
biggest nesting grounds for birds in is a strong attraction for visitors seeking
Europe. On the northwest coast, the serenity of a pristine and somewhat
Paldiski offers testimony to the Soviet remote environment.
Traditionally attired dancers forming a circle at a celebration on Hiiumaa Island

The historic Ekesparre Boutique Hotel (see p298) in the grounds of the Bishop’s Castle in Kuressaare, Saaremaa Island
Exploring Western Estonia

Western Estonia offers an irresistible blend of cultural heritage
and wild natural beauty. Pärnu is a good base from which
to explore the bogs and wetlands of Soomaa National Park
to the east and the flourishing bird sanctuary of Matsalu
National Park to the north. The popular spa resort of Haapsalu
is within easy driving distance of Tallinn and visitors can
explore the ruggedly beautiful coastal area around Paldiski
on the way. The islands of Kihnu, Muhu, Saaremaa, Vormsi Wooden trail through Riisa Bog in Soomaa
and Hiiumaa are well connected to the mainland by ferry National Park
and can be reached from Pärnu and Haapsalu.
Növa
Spithami
Riguldi
Sutlepa
Vo
Lehtma
o
si
VORMSI
St
ra
ISLAND
i
Kärdla
t
Hullo
Lauka Hellamaa HAAPSALU
Rohuküla
Kalana Heltermaa
Ahli
HIIUMAA
ISLAND Käina
Kassari
Leisu
Sõru Nõmmküla
Emmaste MUHU
ISLAND Virtsu
Metsküla Kuivastu
Angla Leisi
Tagaranna Pöide
Karja
Elegant church with historical architecture Undva
D
in Pärnu
N
Kõruse Laimjala
A
L
IS Kõljala
Vilsandi Kihelkonna AA Siiksaare
National E M
Sights at a Glance Park AR
SA
Towns and Cities
Kuressaare G ulf
Kipi Vätta
1 Paldiski Nasva of Rī ga
2 Haapsalu
Tiirimetsa
6 Lihula
9 Pärnu pp102–3
National Parks and Reserves

4 Matsalu National Park Mõntu
0 Soomaa National Park pp104–5
Sääre
Islands
3 Vormsi Island
5 Hiiumaa Island
7 Muhu Island
8 Saaremaa Island pp96–9
q Kihnu Island
Sights of Interest 0 kilometres 20
w Tori Stud Farm 0 miles 20
WESTERN ESTONIA 91
Key
Motorway
Main road
Secondary road
Minor road
Rohuneeme Ihasalu Kaberneeme Railway
Maardu Rakvere International border
Tallinn
Aruküla Soodla
So
Vääna
od
Lohusalu Aegviidu
la
Luige
Kiviloo Jänijõgi Jäneda
PALDISKI Keila
Pirita
Vas Aruvalla
ale Keila Rakvere
Tõdva
m
Ääsmäe
Jä
ma
Kose Albu
ga
la
Vasalemma
Vih
Kohila
Audevälja Ardu
te r p
Kernu
lu
a
Kuimetsa Anna
Turba
Seljaküla Rapla
Varbola
Tartu Getting Around
Risti Paide
Raikküla Kädva The main motorway in the
region is Highway 4, which
la
Lelle
a
Märjamaa Käru Türi leads all the way from Latvia to

Vig
Taebla Männiku
e Pärnu and onwards to Tallinn.
Martna Velis
Valgu Laupa
It is also called the Estonian
MATSALU Eidapere segment of the Via Baltica. The
NATIONAL Paljasmaa main road number 9 connects
PARK Vändra
Kergu Tallinn and Haapsalu and
Matsalu Vöhma
LIHULA branches off at Risti into main
dra
Pärnu- road number 10, which leads

Vän
Oidrema Jaagupi Kaansoo to the port of Virtsu, the main

Kõmsi Suigu link to Saaremaa and Muhu.
Lavassaare TORI
STUD FARM The port at Rohuküla, almost
a
Paadrema
nu
ug
Kalli 3 km (2 miles) west of

SOOMAA
Sa
Ahaste
Pä
Paa
NATIONAL PARK Haapsalu, has ferry connec-

drema
Sindi tions to Hiiumaa and Vormsi

Kihlepa Tipu
islands. Kihnu and Saaremaa
Hallis
Paikuse Kõpu
Matsi Tõstamaa PÄRNU islands can be reached by
te
Pärnu Bay Kanaküla plane from Pärnu. Tallinn and

Uue-
Liu Kariste Pärnu are also connected by
Lao Võiste rail. Small dirt roads are com-
monplace in remote areas.
Ur
Kilingi-
a
Nõmme Valga
KIHNU
ISLAND Jäärja
Häädemeeste
Kabli Massiaru
Ikla
Rīga
Looking out to sea from the watchtower at Haapsalu Castle

1 Paldiski
Road Map C1. * 4,000. £
@ 145 from Tallinn. ∑ paldiski.ee
Deriving its name from the

Estonian pronunciation of
baltiyskiy, which means “Baltic”
in Russian, Paldiski was
established by Peter the Great in
1718. Paldiski was known to be
of strategic importance for the
Russian Empire. In 1962, when
the Soviet Navy nuclear sub-
marine training centre was set
up here, the area already had Haapsalu’s medieval castle, with an adjoining cathedral
two nuclear reactors and
employed some 16,000 people. Environs 2 Haapsalu
The Soviets finally withdrew in Pakri, a stunning peninsula
1994 and the town quickly fell 3 km (2 miles) west of Paldiski, Tallinn. g from Hiiumaa, Vormsi.
into chronic disrepair. The boasts Estonia’s tallest light- n Karja 15, 473 3248. _ Early Music
Swedish director Lukas house. Also here are the ruins of Festival (4–8 Jul), White Lady Days
Moodysson shot his Peter the Great’s ambitious but (Aug). ∑ haapsalu.ee
extraordinarily bleak film unfinished fortress project.
Lilya-4-Ever (2002) in Paldiski, Situated on a small spit of land
though it was described as an jutting out into a narrow bay, the
unnamed “former republic of popular resort town of Haapsalu
the Soviet Union” in the film. dates back to the 13th century.
Located 52 km (32 miles) Its impressive Bishop’s Castle
west of Tallinn, Paldiski is a ruins still serve as the main focal
fascinating place to visit point for the town, despite the
and it attracts a steady stream fact that its formidable fortifica-
of tourists. The countless tions were largely dismantled
derelict military buildings by Peter the Great in the 18th
testify to the prominent role century. The castle watchtower
Paldiski once played in the houses the Castle Museum,
Soviet defence system. Today, displaying medieval weaponry.
however, the town is slowly The adjoining Dome Cathedral
but surely being revitalized. is the largest single-nave church
The port area is booming in the Baltic region.
and Paldiski’s natural beauty Over the course of the 19th
makes it an attractive site for The red-painted lighthouse at Pakri, century, Haapsalu became a
residential development. near Paldiski fashionable holiday resort,
famed for its curative mud
treatments and pretty beaches.
Estonia’s Swedish Community
Its landmark 216-m (709-ft) long
Swedish settlers in Estonia were first mentioned in 1294 in Haapsalu’s train platform is an enduring
town records. It is generally thought that Swedes settled along monument to the era when
the western coastal areas in the 13th and 14th centuries to secure Russian royalty and high society
trade routes. From 1561 to 1700 Estonia was directly under Swedish flocked to the town every
rule. By the early 20th century, there were some 8,000 Swedish- summer. The platform was built
speaking Estonians, most of in 1904 to receive Tsar Nicholas
whom lived on Vormsi Island and II and his entourage, and its
in the Haapsalu region. The
ornate wooden canopy was
Estonian-Swedes were a
recognized minority with their
designed to protect them from
own periodical and distinct bad weather. The station closed
cultural identity. However, the in 1995 and the building now
majority of them fled to Sweden houses the Estonian Railway
during World War II. It is estimated Museum with models of
that some 2,000 Estonian-Swedes engines used between the late
remained behind, but life in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Soviet Union soon effaced their Paralepa Beach, just to the
Swedish circular crosses in St Olav’s way of life and they effectively west of the station, is Haapsalu’s
Church cemetery, Hullo disappeared as a minority. most popular bathing spot.
On the east coast, the
WESTERN ESTONIA 93
promenade is another fine

legacy of the town’s imperial
Tchaikovsky in Haapsalu
glory days. From Africa Beach Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich
the promenade winds its way Tchaikovsky and his brothers
past the spa hall at Kuursaal and Anatoly and Modest spent the
leads to the Museum of the summer of 1867 in Haapsalu. Living
Coastal Swedes, which traces in a small house on Suur-Mere
the history of the Swedes. Street, the 27-year-old Pyotr
worked on The Voyevoda, his first
opera and one of his major compo-
E Museum of the Coastal
sitions. Tchaikovsky Bench on the
Swedes
promenade commemorates his
Sadama 31/32. Tel 473 7165.
stay and, at the press of a button,
Open 10am–4pm daily. & blares out a part of the Sixth
∑ aiboland.ee Tchaikovsky Bench on the
Symphony, thought to have been
inspired by an Estonian folk song. promenade in Haapsalu
island and its beautiful 4 Matsalu National

landscapes make it perfect for Park
hiking and cycling. The island Matsalu rahvuspark
is well known for its lush pine
forests and an abundance of Road Map C2. n Matsalu Nature
juniper bushes, as well as Centre, Penijõe Manor; 472 4236.
spectacular stretches of Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun. 8 ∑ matsalu.ee
rocky coastline.
Some people believe that
Vormsi means “Snakes Island”, as Situated around the narrow
the name derives from the old Matsalu Bay, Matsalu National
Swedish word for snake. Others, Park was founded in 1957 as
however, claim that it was a sanctuary for nesting and
named after a pirate called Orm. migratory birds. The area is a
Picturesque houses in one of the villages on Either way, Vormsi Island was bird-watcher’s paradise, with
Vormsi Island home to some 2,000 Swedes some 275 species found in its
prior to World War II, and their coastal wetlands. Six obser-
3 Vormsi Island influence can be seen all over vation towers dotted along the
the island. coast offer the chance to see
Road Map C1. * 350. @ from
Haapsalu. g from Rohuküla, 10 km
The island’s main settlement the fauna and birdlife up
(6 miles) W of Haapsalu. ∑ vormsi.ee is Hullo, 3 km (2 miles) west of close. Viewing platforms
the ferry port at Sviby. The overlook some of the islets
Estonia’s fourth-largest island, 14th-century St Olav’s Church and coastal meadows. Most
Vormsi is only 10 km (6 miles) is especially worth visiting for its of the observation towers
by 20 km (12 miles) in size. The Baroque pulpit and a cemetery are reached by car or bus,
island is ruggedly beautiful and with a striking collection of although Penijõe tower, on the
blissfully unspoiled despite circular Swedish crosses bank of the Penijõe river, is a
being only 3 km (2 miles) from looming out of hand-made short walk from the Matsalu
the mainland. The size of the mounds of grass. Nature Centre.
The Matsalu Bay islet, part of the idyllic Matsalu National Park
which have well-tended

gardens. A branch of the
Hiiumaa Museum is housed in
a one-storey wooden building
which was the home of a
Swedish manager of a textiles
factory in the 19th century. A
seaside park lies just north of
the museum and is filled with
families and sunbathers
throughout the summer.
The Hill of Crosses (Ristimägi),
located 4 km (2 miles) west of
The pristine coastline of Hiiumaa Island Kärdla, is an impressive sight.
The hill is packed with crosses
5 Hiiumaa Island beauty and revitalizing made out of local wood. It is
Road Map C2. k Hiiesaare, 5 km
atmosphere. The shallow waters believed that the tradition of
(3 miles) E of Kärdla. @ from Tallinn. off the northeast coast are placing crosses at the site
g from Rohuküla, Triigi. n Hiiu 1, very popular for canoeing and began with the deportation
Kärdla, 462 2232. _ St John’s Day kayaking in the summer, and of Swedes in 1781 by the
(Jun). ∑ hiiumaa.ee numerous hiking and cycling Russians. Today, most of the
routes traverse the island. Public new crosses at the site are
Estonia’s second-largest island, transport is limited and is best brought by tourists.
Hiiumaa is a paradise for nature not relied on as the main means
lovers due to its rugged and of getting around. + Suuremõisa Manor
diverse landscape. Although it is Suuremõisa.
only 22 km (14 miles) from the Kärdla Although Estonians customarily
mainland, it is far less developed * 4,000. n Hiiu 1, 462 2232. refer to Suuremõisa (Big Manor)
as a tourist destination than ∑ hiiumaa.ee Hiiumaa Museum: as a castle, it is actually a manor
neighbouring Saaremaa (see Vabriku Väljak 8. Open 10am–5pm house. It was built in 1755 for
pp96–9). Over half the island is Mon–Fri. & Ebba Margaretha Stenbock, a
covered in forest that is home to This small town is of interest relative of the powerful de la
an abundance of wildlife, such primarily as a base for exploring Gardie family, who owned much
as elk, wild boar and lynx. The Hiiumaa. However, it is also a of Hiiumaa until the Russians
rest of the territory consists of picturesque place, full of pretty acquired it in 1710. The widowed
meadows, peat bogs, heathland wooden houses, nearly all of Stenbock lived in the manor with
and endless miles of unspoiled her children, after winning back
coastline. Although there are the rights to her ancestral land. In
plenty of interesting sights on Tahkuna Lehtma
1796, the manor was bought
the island, the majority of by a shipping magnate
visitors come to Hiiumaa to who was deported to
enjoy its amazing natural Malvaste Siberia in 1803
Reigi Kärdla
Paluküla
Kõrgessaare
Otste
Hellamaa
Baltic Sea Lauka
Nõmba
Ludija Heiste HIIUMAA

Kalana Heltermaa
Puski
Kaleste Kõpu Suuremõisa
Lake
Tihu Männamaa
Mardihansu
Käina
Bay
Taterma
0 km 10 Kassari
Orjaku
0 miles 10 Leisu Jausa
Valgu
Sõru Emmaste
Key
Major road
Minor road

WESTERN ESTONIA 95
the islands of Muhu and

Saaremaa. Lihula was the site
of a major castle in the 13th
century, which was almost
destroyed during the Livonian
Wars (1558–83). The impressive
ruins stand atop a hill offering
spectacular views of the region.
Housed in an old manor house,
the nearby Lihula Museum
offers a comprehensive account
The Sprawling Suuremõisa Manor, fronted by a verdant lawn of the town’s history.
for murdering one of his ships’ 1500 and completed in 1531. E Lihula Museum
captains in the house. There are At the end of the 1980s, the Linnuse tee 1. Tel 477 8880.
64 rooms in this grand manor, crumbling edifice was Open irregular hours; call for timings.
which currently houses two reinforced with four thick
schools. Although the interior sloping buttresses, giving it its
is not open to the public, it is highly distinctive appearance. 7 Muhu Island
possible to take a stroll around The equally distinct Ristna Road Map C2. @ from Tallinn, Pärnu.
the manor’s vast grounds. Lighthouse (1874) stands only g from Virtsu. 0 - =
10 km (6 miles) further west, ∑ muhu.info
} Kassari at the tip of the peninsula.
* 90. @ from Kärdla. 8  Most people generally pass
Hiiumaa Museum: Open May–Aug: through Muhu Island on their
10am–5:30pm Mon–Sun. & way to Saaremaa without
A small island connected to spending much time here.
Hiiumaa by a causeway, Kassari However, Muhu is an extremely
is known for its natural beauty. attractive island whose small
The 18th-century Kassari size makes it easy to explore.
chapel-turned-church is the The village of Liiva, just 6 km
only functioning church with (4 miles) from the ferry terminal,
a reed roof in Estonia. Near the is home to the 13th-century
church is the village of Kassari St Catherine’s Church, while
itself, home to the Hiiumaa the nearby coastal village
Museum, which gives an of Koguva is a picturesque
overview of Hiiumaa from the ensemble of stone farmhouses
Stone Age through to the Kõpu Lighthouse, one of the world’s oldest with thatched roofs.
present. The island culminates functioning lighthouses Muhu Island has preserved
in the stunning Sääre Tirp its charming tradition of
peninsula in the south, a 2-km brightly painted farmhouse
(1-mile) spit that can be 6 Lihula doors, some of which depict
covered on foot or by car. Road Map C2. * 1,600. n Tiigi 5,
symbols that are said to keep
The Orjaku Nature Trail 477 8191. ∑ lihula.ee evil spirits away.
explores Käina Bay, a major bird The rugged natural beauty
sanctuary. The coastal water The quiet town of Lihula leads of the island also makes it a
around Kassari is said to be to Matsalu National Park (see wonderful place for long
the warmest in Estonia and the p93) and also serves as the last walks, especially along the
island has plenty of good stopping-off point en route to pristine coastline.
beaches, especially in the south.
With only four villages, Kassari
retains its peace even in the
height of summer.
P Kõpu Lighthouse
Kõpu village, 35 km (22 miles) W of
Kärdla. Open May–end Sep:
10am–8pm daily. Tel 469 3474. & 8
Midway along the rocky Kõpu
peninsula, this is the world’s
third-oldest working lighthouse.
Built on the highest hill of
Hiiumaa, it was commissioned
by the Hanseatic League in Stone farmhouses in the fishing village of Koguva, Muhu Island
8 Saaremaa Island
Saaremaa is Estonia’s largest island and the jewel of its
archipelago. The capital, Kuressaare, is a strikingly picturesque
town whose relatively tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal
base from which to explore the island. The place has a lot to
offer in terms of things to see and do, but its extraordinary
natural beauty is the real attraction and the reason why so
many people feel compelled to return here. The breathtaking
landscape of Vilsandi National Park, the abundance of old
churches and the fascinating historic relics dotted throughout
the island are just some of the main highlights (see pp98–9).
Art Nouveau lion statues outside the

information centre, Kuressaare
Võhma
Mustjala
. Vilsandi National Park
Known for its awe-inspiring landscapes,
unspoiled islets and bird sanctuaries, this park
was established in 1993 to preserve the
ecology of Estonia’s coast.
Kihelkonna
Karla
0 km 5 Lűmanda
0 miles 5
Salme
Sõrve
Peninsula
Mõntu
Sääre
Key
Sõrve Peninsula Major road
The scenery along Sõrve Peninsula is some of the most Minor road
spectacular on the island, culminating in the magnificently wild
and windswept tip. The best way to explore the ravishing Ferry route
coastline is to take a bike or car trip. Park boundary
WESTERN ESTONIA 97
. Angla Windmills
Standing along the main
road from Kuressaare to Leisi,
the five wooden windmills
Road Map C2. n Tallinna 2,
at Angla are an iconic
Kuressaare, 453 3120. Open mid-
symbol of Saaremaa Island
May–mid-Sep: 9am–5pm Mon–
and one of Estonia’s most
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; mid-
photographed sights.
Sep–mid-May: 9am–5pm Mon–
Fri. 8 ∑ visitsaaremaa.ee
Transport
k Kuressaare. @ from Tallinn,
Tartu, Pärnu to Kuressaare.
g from Virtsu to Kuivastu
(Muhu Island), Hiiumaa Island to
Triigi, Roomassaare to Ruhnu.
Book ferry in advance.
Hiiumaa
Island
Muhu
Island
Leisi
Liiva
Orissaare
Angla Karja
Church Kuivastu
Karja
Tagavere
Laimjala
Kaali
Kaarma
Upa Koljala
Kuressaare
Poppy Fields
Ruhnu Due to its temperate climate and fertile soil,
Island Saaremaa has over 200 local species of flora.
Abruka
Orchids and poppies grow wild in some parts.
KEY
1 Mihkli Farm Museum, an

authentic 19th-century farmstead,
offers a fascinating glimpse into rural
life on the island in the past.
2 Kihelkonna Church, a splendid
13th-century place of worship, has a
steeple that was added in 1897.
3 Kiipsaare Lighthouse
. Bishop’s Castle 4 Kaarma Church, which dates
The formidable castle is the most important landmark from the 13th century, has a striking
in Kuressaare. It has Teutonic order architecture with a 15th-century pulpit.
powerful defence tower and a slender watchtower.
Today the castle houses an informative museum.
Exploring Saaremaa Island little room where the resident

bishop could retire for
The best way to explore Saaremaa Island is by car. The island’s reflection, and a particularly
size makes it difficult to visit the major sights by bicycle, while eye-catching medieval lavatory.
public transport is extremely limited and erratic. Saaremaa
Kaali Meteor Crater
has excellent, well-signposted roads on the whole, although Kaali. @ from Kuressaare
bumpy dirt tracks are common in the more remote parts. to Kõnnu, 15 km (9 miles) NE, then
The majority of visitors stay in Kuressaare but there is an walk for 3 km (2 miles). n Kaali
abundance of excellent farmstead-style guesthouses Visitors’ Centre, 459 1184. 0 =
∑ kaali.kylastuskeskus.ee
scattered throughout Saaremaa for a more authentic
experience of rustic island life. All the major sights are The meteor crater at Kaali is
arguably one of the most
within comfortable driving distance of the capital. extraordinary geological sights
in Estonia. At first glance, it
appears to be a small lake, until
visitors notice the perfectly
rounded banks above the water
and the protruding shards of
dolomite that were thrown up
by the impact.
Scientists estimate that the
meteor struck sometime
between 4,000 and 7,500 years
ago. With a diameter of 110 m
(360 ft), the crater is the eighth-
largest in the world, and it
exudes atmosphere, inspiring
visitors to look upwards.
P Angla Windmills
Buildings interspersed with greenery in the attractive town of Kuressaare 15 km (9 miles) N of Kaali.
@ from Kuressaare.
Kuressaare out of local dolomite, it is a Lined up along the Upa–Leisi
* 16,000. k 4 km (2 miles) SW of spectacular sight, as visitors road, the five Angla Windmills
town centre. n Tallinna 2. _ St John’s approach it through the (Angla tuulikud) are the last
Eve (23 Jun). ∑ kuressaare.ee surrounding landscaped park. remaining group of windmills in
This small, attractive and serene The castle houses the intriguing Saaremaa. In the mid-19th
town epitomizes the spirit of Saaremaa Regional Museum, century, there were 800 working
Saaremaa. Kuressaare’s main whose labyrinthine interior is windmills on the island. Four of
thoroughfare, Lossi, which turns a joy to explore. The exhibits the Angla Windmills are
into Tallinna, is lined with a about Saaremaa are well constructed on the traditional
stunning stretch of beautiful arranged and offer a vivid Saaremaa model, while the
buildings, including the green- account of the island’s largest is a wooden version of a
domed St Nicholas’s Church epic history. Dutch windmill. Together, they
(Nikolai kirik) and the step- Highlights of the castle form a mesmerizing sight amid
gabled Weigh House, which include the Bishop’s Living the wide open landscape.
now serves as a pub known as Quarters with a dingy, spartan Although the windmills are not
Vaekoja. Most of all, though, the
town makes a delightful place
for a stroll, especially on a
pleasant evening.
P Bishop’s Castle
Lossihoov 1, Kuressaare. Tel 455 7542.
Open May–Aug: 10am–6pm daily;
Sep–Apr: 11am–6pm Wed–Sun.
& 8 call in advance. -
∑ saaremaamuuseum.ee
Dating back to the 14th century,
the Bishop’s Castle (Piisko-
pilinnus) in Kuressare is one of
the best-preserved medieval
castles in the Baltic States. Built The Bishop's Living Quarters set in the lush grounds of the Bishop’s Castle
WESTERN ESTONIA 99
R Kihelkonna Church
3 km (2 miles) NW of Kihelkonna.
Tel 454 6558. Open Jun–Aug: 10am–
5pm daily. 5
On the west coast of the island,
along the border of Vilsandi
National Park, this 13th-century
church is a treasure trove of
religious architecture and
artifacts. The organ, built in
1805, is the oldest in the
country, while the beautiful
pulpit dates from 1604. The altar
triptych, The Last Supper, is a
superb example of Renaissance
Two of the five Angla Windmills, standing tall in an open landscape church art.
open to the public, there is a nowhere, but people once } Vilsandi National Park
wonder ful assortment of flocked here for Sunday services 10 km (6 miles) W of Kihelkonna.
traditional play apparatus for from the surrounding villages. g from Papisaare. Tel 454 6880.
children just behind them. n Vilsandi National Park
E Mihkli Farm Museum Visitors’ Centre, Loona Manor.
R Karja Church 28 km (17 miles) NW of Kuressaare. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 -
Viki. Tel 454 6613. Open mid-May– ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
2 km (1 mile) NE of Angla Windmills,
Karja village. Open mid-May–mid- Aug: 10am–6pm daily; Sep–mid-Oct: This huge national park
Sep: 10am–6pm daily. 5 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & comprises Vilsandi Island along
∑ saaremaamuuseum.ee
The medieval Karja Church (Karja with some 150 islets and a
kirik) is the smallest church in In the sleepy village of Viki, narrow strip of coast culminating
Saaremaa, but also one of the Mihkli Farm Museum in the rugged Harilaid Peninsula.
the most beautiful. It is (Mihkli talumuuseum) is a The park was established thanks
well known for its elabo- picturesque farmstead to a lighthouse keeper named
rate stone carvings, consisting of beautiful Artur Toom, who set up a bird
which include a relief thatched cottages, a sanctuary here in 1910. The
of the Crucifixion windmill, a brewery 239-sq-km (92-sq-mile) park in its
above the side door and even an old present form was founded in 1993.
and some remarkable sauna. Most of the The most significant bird
figures inside depic- buildings date from sanctuaries are located on the
ting saints. There is 1827–56. The Vaika Islands, off the western tip
also a famous bas museum has of Vilsandi, from where the
relief showing Mary Stone carving outside authentic displays imposing 40-m (131-ft) Vilsandi
and John at Cavalry, Karja Church of rural architecture Lighthouse can be seen. For
along with the two and traditional living some of the most striking
thieves whose souls depart their styles. The farm was active scenery, head to the Harilaid
bodies in the form of children. until Soviet times, when Peninsula. From here, it is
collectivization broke it up. possible to take an invigorating
R Kaarma Church Today, visitors can learn hike up to the leaning light-
15 km (9 miles) NW of Kuressaare, traditional methods of making house. The trail offers
Kaarma village. Tel 459 5322. bread and butter. evocative scenery.
Open no regular opening hours. 5
Dating from the 13th century,
Kaarma Church (Kaarma kirik) is
one of the oldest churches in
Western Estonia. A stone tablet
over the front portal attests to
repairs made to the church in
1407 and is considered to be
the first written example of
the Estonian language. The
15th-century pulpit with a
polychrome figure of Joseph
beneath it is especially
impressive. The church may
appear incongruously large,
standing in the middle of Display showing the interior of a rural household, Mihkli Farm Museum
The leaning Kiipsaare Lighthouse, Harilaid Peninsula, Saaremaa Island
102  ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
9 Pärnu equally opulent interior.

Intended as an architectural
Often referred to as Estonia’s summer capital, Pärnu has showpiece, St Catherine’s had
historic buildings, pastel-coloured wooden houses and a significant influence on
elegant late 19th-century villas set along leafy streets. The Orthodox churches through-
out the Baltic States.
town centre is situated on an estuary between the Pärnu river
and the Baltic Sea, with all the main sights located within F Pärnu Concert Hall
walking distance. The Old Town is centred around the Aida 4. Tel 445 5800. Open 10am–
pedestrianized Rüütli Street, with the most popular beach a 6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat (box
office). & 7 = ∑ concert.ee
10-minute walk away. With an ultra-modern concert hall and
high-quality theatre, Pärnu also has an exciting cultural scene. The Pärnu Concert Hall is a
source of great pride for local
people. The curvaceous glass
P Town Hall and steel building is a strong
Uus 4/Nikolai 3. example of modern architecture
The elegant Neo-Classical in the country and compares
building that is now the Town favourably with similar
Hall was erected in 1797 as a structures in other European
wealthy merchant’s residence. cities. Its seashell-like shape was
In 1819, the structure was intended to symbolize Pärnu’s
slightly altered to serve as the status as a coastal town. The
house for the town’s governor multifunctional building mostly
and, in 1839, it took on its hosts theatre performances and
current function as Pärnu’s Town concerts, although it also
Hall. What makes it worth houses an art gallery, music
visiting is the magnificent Art school and music shop.
Nouveau extension built in
1911. Its brooding dark exterior P Tallinn Gate
is in total contrast to the bright Mere pst.
yellow façade of the original The only trace of the 17th-
structure and provides a century ramparts that protected
fascinating juxtaposition of Green domes and yellow walls of Pärnu at one time, Tallinn Gate
two radically different St Catherine’s Church still offers a significant glimpse
architectural styles. of the once impressive
R St Catherine’s Church fortifications. Until 1710, when
R Elizabeth’s Church Vee 16. Tel 444 3198. Open 9am– Swedish rule came to an end,
Nikolai 22. Tel 443 1381. Open Jun– 5pm daily. 5 it was known as Gustav’s Gate,
Aug: 10am–6pm daily, Sep–May: Built in 1768 for the Pärnu named after King Gustav
10am–2pm Mon–Fri. 5 garrison during the reign of Adolphus of Sweden
∑ eliisabet.ee Catherine the Great, St (1594–1632).
Another excellent example of Catherine’s Church (Ekateriina Today, the Tallinn Gate’s only
local Baroque architecture, kirik) is arguably the finest function is to provide an elegant
Elizabeth’s Church (Eliisabeti Baroque church in Estonia. With portal between the Old Town
kirik) has an elegant ochre bottle-green domes and lemon- and the area leading to the sea.
exterior and a maroon spire yellow walls, the church boasts The cobblestoned passageway
towering above the surroun- an elegant exterior and an offers a pleasant walk.
ding narrow side streets. It was
founded specifically as a
Lutheran church, in 1747, by
the Russian Empress Elizabeth
(1709–61). Today, it serves as
the largest Protestant place of
worship in Pärnu.
The wood-panelled interior is
refined and understated, but all
the more impressive for it. The
church’s spire was built by
Johann Heinrich Wülbern, who
also constructed Rīga’s St Peter’s
Church. Elizabeth’s Church is
also renowned for its organ,
one of the best in Estonia, built
in 1929 by H Kolbe. Verdant setting of the Tallinn Gate, formerly known as Gustav’s Gate
WESTERN ESTONIA  103
E Lydia Koidula Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

J V Jannseni 37. Tel 443 3313. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 call in Practical Information
advance. ∑ parnumuuseum.ee Road Map D2.* 44,000.
A short walk across the Pärnu n Uus 4, 447 3000. _ Pärnu
river, the Lydia Koidula Museum Film Festival (Jul), Oistrakh Festival
provides a moving testimony to (Jul). ∑ visitparnu.com
Estonia’s most revered female Transport
poet. Established in 1945, it is k £ Riia mnt 116.
situated in the building where @ Pikk tänav.
her father, Johann Valdemar
Jannsen, ran a primary school Kronstadt. Although very
from 1857 to 1863. little of Lydia Koidula’s work is
A highlight of the museum is available in English, the museum
a reconstruction of the bedroom is worth visiting for an interesting
Detail featuring an Art Nouveau mask, where Koidula died of cancer in insight into Estonian literature
Ammende Villa 1886 in the Russian town of of the period.
P Ammende Villa
Mere pst 7. Tel 447 3888. See Where to Lydia Koidula (1843–86)
Stay p298 and Where to Eat and Drink Lydia Emilia Florentine Jannsen is a highly influential figure in
p317. ∑ ammende.ee Estonian history. Although she was forced to write under the
Built in 1905 by a wealthy local pseudonym Koidula, meaning “of the
merchant for the wedding party dawn”, because writing was not
of his beloved daughter, considered a suitable career for a
Ammende Villa is one of the woman at that time, her poetry was
most impressive examples of ecstatically received. Her My Country is
Art Nouveau architecture in the My Love became the unofficial national
country. Over the years, it has anthem during Soviet times. Some critics
believe that Koidula’s finest writing was
served as a casino, a health
her passionate correspondence with the
establishment and a library,
writer Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald,
before two Estonian business although his jealous wife eventually put
men renovated it and converted an end to it. Koidula later married a
it into a luxury hotel, with a Latvian doctor. She died of cancer in
beautiful finedining restaurant. Kronstadt, in the Gulf of Finland, pining Lydia Koidula, a major Estonian
The villa is located a short walk for her country to the last. writer and poet
from the sea and the Old Town.
Pärnu Pärnu Airport

5 km (3 miles)
Lydia Koidula
Museum
1 Town Hall Pärnu

RIIA MAANTEE
2 Elizabeth’s Church
Pärnu
HOMMIKU
3 St Catherine’s Church KA
Concert Hall
LDA
4 Pärnu Concert Hall AIDA
AKADEEMIA
TU
VE E
5 Tallinn Gate
ÕH
Railway Station
PÕHJA
6 Ammende Villa
5 km (3 miles)
PIKK Bus
K E S KVÄ L J A K Station
MALMÖ
P Ü H AVA I
HOM
HOSPIDALI
St Catherine’s Town
Church Hall
MIK
UUS
M U NG A
ÕHTU
ÕHTU P
MU
U
VEE
V N -TA L L I NN A
R Ü Ü TL I
R Ü Ü T LI
NIKOLA
KUNINGA
I
KUNINGA Elizabeth’s
Church
RIN LÕ U N A Koidula
PÜHA
GI
NA Park
Tallinn LÕ U
Gate
VA I M
VEE
U
GA
UR
M RI
U
EL
N RINGI
MER
MM
GI
NIKOLAI
E
RE
UI
P
ES
TEE
ES
PL
0 metres AN
200 Ammende AA ESPLANA
ADI
DI
Villa
0 yards 200

0 Soomaa National Park E S T O N I A
Soomaa National Park, an enchanting self-enclosed world

of bogs, rivers, swampland, meadows and virgin forest, was
Area of the
established in 1993. The 390-sq-km (151-sq- mile) park gets Pärnu map illustrated Viljandi
flooded in spring, which locals call the “fifth season”. However,

Soomaa’s five bogs are its best natural feature. Approximately
6 m (20 ft) high in places, they can be accessed along a series
of hiking trails set on wooden platforms. The park’s stunning Key
Soomaa National Park
wildlife includes wolves, roe deer, brown bears, lynx, elk, wild
boar and lesser spotted eagles.
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
esti
Nav
te
llis
Ha
. Riisa Bog Trail Pärnu

The 5-km (3-mile) long bog trail,
close to the border of the park,
culminates in a group of bog pools. Riisa
gi
mjō
Raudna Lem
Tõramaa
Tõrama
Ingatsi Bog Trail

Half of the 4-km (2-mile) trail is a
boardwalk that leads through swamp
forest and bog pools.
Halli
ste
Lake
Karuskose Farm Oordi
Close to hiking trails Viljandi
and bog-land, this farm
offers guided walks,
fishing, canoeing and
traditional canoe-
building courses.
Key . Tõramaa Wooded Meadow Trail

Minor road
A 2-km (1-mile) walk leads to this
pretty trail, which allows visitors to
Trail explore the park and its well-
Park boundary preserved meadow.
WESTERN ESTONIA  105
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST w Tori Stud Farm

Tori hobusekasvandus
Pärnu mnt 10, Tori. Road Map D2.
Road Map D2.
@ from Pärnu. Tel 503 1892.
n National Park Visitors’ Centre,
Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. &
Tõramaa, 435 7164. Open mid-
8 call one day in advance.
Apr–mid-Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
∑ torihobune.ee
mid-Sep–mid-Apr: 10am–4pm
Mon–Fri. 8 Aivar Ruukel, 506
Situated in the beautiful village
1896. ∑ soomaa.com
8  ® Karuskose Farm.
of Tori, Tori Stud Farm is a good
stopping-off point on the way
Transport to nearby Soomaa National
£ from Tallinn. @ from Pärnu. Park. Estonia’s oldest horse farm,
it was established in 1856 by
the Livonian gentry with the
aim of breeding a strong local
stock. After several failed
attempts at improving the local
Kihnu Jõnn's grave on Linaküla, the main breed, a crossbred Norfolk-
village on Kihnu Island Roadster horse was brought in,
which became the basis for the
q Kihnu Island new breed. The stud farm is still
Road Map C2. * 600. k from
used for breeding purposes
Pärnu. g from Munalaid, 40 km today, although its horses are far
(25 miles) SW of Pärnu. ∑ kihnu.ee more likely to be used for giving
horse-riding lessons than for
The tiny island of Kihnu has a ploughing the fields.
significant place in Estonian Tori Stud Farm is also a
culture. It is the only part of worthwhile excursion in itself.
the country where women still Visitors to the farm can partake
wear traditional dress and the in a range of activities, including
Flora islanders continue to live largely a guided tour of the farm which
The peat moss of the traditional lifestyles. Fishing introduces them to some of the
bogs is ideal for heather, remains a major source of 90-odd horses. Those interested
cranberries and Labrador income, as do the much- in old-fashioned transport can
tea. The sundew plant admired handmade clothes take a tour of the farm and
gets additional nutrition and mittens. There are four village in a horse-driven carriage
by catching insects. villages on the island, but as it is for a small fee charged on an
only 7 km (4 miles) long and hourly basis. It is possible to go
Raudna
3.5 km (2 miles) wide, it is easy sleigh-riding in winter.
to get around. The farm also boasts a
KEY In the main village of Linaküla wonderful little museum situ-
lies the grave of the legendary ated in a thatched wooden
1 Meiekose Hiking Trail, a
Kihnu Jõnn (1848–1913), the barn. Its collection features a
5-km (3-mile) route, is also
suitable for cycling.
island’s most famous inhabitant. fascinating assortment of exhi-
Born on Kinhu, Jõnn was a larger- bits relating to the history of
2 Kuresoo Bog, at 110 sq km than-life, hard-drinking sailor horse-breeding as well as the
(42 sq miles), is the largest of the
who sailed around the globe. history of the local village.
bogs. Birds nest here in spring.
3 Lemmjõgi River Spit Forest
Trail is 5 km (3 miles) long.
4Kuuraniidu Study Trail has
information boards describing
the local flora.
5 Hüpassaare Hiking Trail is
5 km (3 miles) long, and passes
through forest and bog pools
before finishing at the Mart Saar
House Museum.
6 Öördi Hiking Trail, a 7-km
(4-mile) forest trail, starts from Iia
village on the Kõpu-Jõesuu road
and leads to Lake Öördi.
Tori Stud Farm, breeder of some of Estonia’s finest horses
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION  107
EASTERN ESTONIA
The landscape of Eastern Estonia, punctuated with rolling hills,
lush forests, limestone escarpments and pristine lakes, is more
diverse than the country’s western part. This truly fascinating
region combines idyllic scenery with picturesque old manor
houses and the unique cultural heritage of the Setu people
and Old Believers, which have survived through the centuries.
Despite its stunning landscape, some parts country’s nature reserves for the variety of
of Eastern Estonia are less frequented by its landscape and natural features. Further
tourists, especially the far northeast, along, the Ontika Coast, with its huge
southeast and around Lake Peipsi. The vast limestone escarpments and cascading
mass of Lake Peipsi dominates the central waterfalls, is breathtaking.
part of this region. The western shores of Sights of political, historic and social
the lake are dotted with the sizeable settle- history abound in the southeast as a
ments of Russian Old Believers who have whole. Viljandi is famous for its Folk Music
been living here for countless generations. Festival, while Estonia’s national flag was
Captured and conquered repeatedly by sanctified in Otepää, the winter sports
Russians from 1558 until Estonia’s capital, where snowboarding and ice
independence in 1991, the historic fortress skating bring the town to life. Tartu,
city of Narva still bears testimony to the Estonia’s second-largest city and its
enormous role Russia has played in spiritual and intellectual capital, is
shaping Estonia’s history. During World home to the nation’s oldest university.
War II, the value of oil-shale mining rose With attractions such as the grand
significantly, bringing Kohtla-Järve into Sangaste Manor and the captivating Suur
sharp focus. Today, this heavily industrial Munamägi viewing tower at the country’s
town serves as a vast, sprawling living highest point, the south and southeast are
monument to Soviet-era industry. among Estonia’s most scenic areas. In the
East of Tallinn, Lahemaa National Park far southeast, the ethnographically distinct
is arguably the most beautiful of the Setu people continue to live traditionally.
Migrating flock of gulls flying across Lake Peipsi

Cathedral ruins rebuilt during the 19th-century as the university library, Tartu
Exploring Eastern Estonia Viinistu Käsmu Altja

Vainupea
Võsu Karepa
Eastern Estonia has strikingly diverse attractions.
LAHEMAA Sagadi
Lahemaa National Park boasts some of the NATIONAL PARK Palmse
country’s most beautiful landscapes, with count- Valgejõgi
Lo
ob
u Viitna Haljala
less villages dotted throughout the area. A stunning
coastline stretches to the medieval city of Narva and
Va l ge
Tallinn RAKVERE
the pristine beach at Narva-Jõesuu. To the south is
jõ
i
g
Lake Peipsi. The picturesque landscape of the south- So
od
east provides a beautiful backdrop to attractive towns Udriku Pajusti
Tapa
la
Aegviidu
such as Viljandi and Otepää, as well as to countless Kullenga
places of historic significance. Tartu makes an
VÄIKE-
ideal base from which to explore the region. Käravete Tamsalu MAARJA
Jä
ga
a Vajangu Kiltsi
l
Järva-
Ardu Madise
0 kilometres 20 Järva-
Roosna- Jaani Rakke
0 miles 20 Alliku
Koeru
Anna
Müüsleri
Vahastu
ENDLA NATURE
Sights at a Glance PAIDE RESERVE
Towns, Cities and Resorts Käru Koigi

Türi ti Tapiku
4 Sillamäe ves
Tallinn Särevere Na
5 Narva Imavere
6 Narva-Jõesuu
7 Kuremäe PÕLTSAMAA
8 Rakvere u
rn Kõo Umbusi
9 Väike-Maarja Pä
Vändra
Suurejõe Navesti Kolga-
Põ
q Paide Jaani
lt
sa
w Põltsamaa
m
a
Kaansoo
a
Pärnu
e Tartu pp118–21 Mudiste
t Viljandi Leie
a
y Otepää Oiu
ks
O Vastemõisa
assilma
o Rõuge Rau än
dna
T
a Vastseliina
VILJANDI LAKE
s Võru Tipu
VÕRTSJÄRV
d Põlva
Hall
Kõpu Kö Ramsi Paistu

pu
iste
Buildings and Sights of Interest Mustla

Sultsi Kivilõpe
2 Kohtla Underground Mining Uue-
Museum Kariste
u Sangaste Manor Pärnu Halliste Kärstna Pikasilla

Abja-Paluoja
i Mõniste Open-Air Museum Veisjärv
Karksi-
f Kiidjärve Watermill Mõisaküla
Nuia
Rutumägi
145 m (475 ft)
Tõrva
National Parks and Reserves
Ala
1 Lahemaa National Park
pp110–113 Holdre
Hummuli
0 Endla Nature Reserve
Areas of Natural Beauty

3 Ontika Coast
r Lake Võrtsjärv
Valmiera
p Suur Munamägi
g Taevaskoja Sandstone Cliffs
Tour
h Lake Peipsi p127 Medieval Ivangorod Castle, seen from Narva
EASTERN ESTONIA  109
NARVA- Getting Around

Gulf of Finland JÕESUU
Highway 1 (the E20 under
Mahu SILLAMÄE
ONTIKA Toila the European system)
Viru-Nigula
COAST Kohtla- NARVA leads east out of Tallinn
Järve Narva and skirts Lahemaa
Sirgala veehoidla National Park before following
Kiviõli Jõhvi
Sämi KOHTLA the coast to Narva. Highway 2
UNDERGROUND (E263) connects Tartu and Võru and
MINING MUSEUM järve Metsa
u
Highway 3 (E264) links Tartu and
ns
Ko
Valga, skirting the northern part of
KUREMÄE
Anguse Tarumaa Lake Peipsi along the way. The town of
Kuningaküla
a
Rakvere also has a road leading to Tartu.
Tudu A railway connects Tallinn with Rakvere,
n
ge
un
Roela Jaama Narva, Tartu and Viljandi. Tartu also has a

ap
Isaku
small airport. In the southeast an intricate
nn
Peressaare
Ra
Kellavere Mägi Tudulinna network of signposted dirt roads connects

Vasknarva
155 m (509 ft)
Kauske most of the villages in the area.
Arukse
Avinurme Lohusuu
ed
P
ja
LAKE
Sadala Mustvee PEIPSI
Kantküla Torma Raja
Ku Omedu
lla u Ranna
ve
ed
re
Om
Jögeva
Kallaste
Kaarepere
Alatskivi
Kolkja
Koosa Kasepää
Puurmani Tabivere
Vara
Varnja
Laeva
e Kevastu
m Meerapalu
m
A
Kärevere
Ahja
TARTU
Rekusaare
Reola Võnnu
Rasina Fishing village in Lahemaa National Park
Naha
Ahja
Kambja
Rannu Elva KIIDJÄRVE WATERMILL
Vastse-
Kuuste
Maaritsa TAEVASKOJA
Rõngu SANDSTONE CLIFFS
Saverna PÕLVA Mikitamäe
Viluste Värska
Kuutse Mägi OTEPÄÄ Vana-
217 m (712 ft) j Kojola
a
Ah
Pühajärv
u
an d
Vaartsi
Keeni Kärgula Väimela
h
Lasva
Võ
Piusa
SANGASTE Obinitsa
MANOR Sõmerpalu VÕRU
Antsla Meremäe Key
Laatre i
õg
j Motorway
sti Haanja VASTSELIINA
Mu
Valga RÕUGE Main road
MÕNISTE OPEN- Secondary road
AIR MUSEUM SUUR MUNAMÄGI
Koikküla Minor road
Scenic route
Krabi
Taheva Railway
Peak

1 Lahemaa National Park Gulf of

Finland Area of the
map illustrated
Extending across the north coast of Estonia, Lahemaa National
Park, or Lahemaa Rahvuspark, is a nature lover’s paradise. It is
the largest park in Estonia and also the first area to be desig
Va
lg
nated a national park in the erstwhile Soviet Union. The diverse
ejõ
gi
ESTONIA
terrain covers four peninsulas jutting out into the Gulf of Finland
and stretches inland over an area of 725 sq km (280 sq miles). Key
The park teems with wildlife and has several marked trails Lahemaa National Park
through its forests and bogs and along its meandering
coastline. Many impressive manor houses and picturesque
villages can be found throughout the area (see pp112–13).
Pärispea
Viinistu G ul f o f
Fi n l a n d
Suurpea
Pä ri sp e a
Pe n i n su l a Käsmu
Viinistu P en i n s ul a
Once a fishing village, Viinistu has developed Kasispea
E ru B a y
into a local cultural centre. It is home to an
impressive art gallery.
Har a
Bay Loksa
Lake
K ä s mu
Vihasoo
L ak e
L ohja
Lo
bu
Ilumäe
Va
lg
ej
õg Joaveski
i
. Käsmu Peninsula
The rugged coastline of Käsmu Peninsula, strewn
with giant boulders left behind by retreating glaciers
after the last Ice Age, has an ethereal beauty.
Flora and Fauna 0 km 2

With forest covering more
than 70 per cent of Lahemaa, 0 miles 2
the area is rich in flora and
fauna. The landscape has
many raised bogs, including Key
the 7,000-year-old Laukasoo Minor road
Reserve. The thriving wildlife
includes a population of Trail
wolves, bear and lynx. Park boundary
Road Map D1. n National Park
Võsu Visitors’ Centre, Palmse, 329 5555.
A beautiful stretch Open mid-May–Sep: 9am–5pm
of beach, a tranquil daily; Oct–mid-May: 9am–5pm
atmosphere and Mon–Fri. 0 - =  available
stunning natural at Võsu (May–Sep).
surroundings make ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe
this historic village
a very popular Transport
@ from Tallinn to Võsu, Altja,
holiday resort.
Käsmu, Viinistu.
The Oandu Forest Nature Trail
is a well-signposted 5-km
(3-mile) long route. Wildlife
can be seen foraging along the
largely moss-covered path.
K äs m u
Bay
Lame
Pihlaspea
. Altja Village
Ve rg i With its timber houses with
Pe ni ns ul a ornately thatched roofs, the
Altja fishing village of Altja provides
an authentic glimpse of a
Võsu bygone era, when its survival
depended on the sea.
Oandu
Koljaku
Sagadi
Manor
Sagadi
Metasnurga
Palmse
Sagadi Manor
The grounds of Sagadi Manor,
one of the most attractive of
. Palmse Manor House the region’s manor houses, are
The stately Baroque house has now been restored as a filled with sculptures, while its
museum, while its converted outhouses and extensive numerous outhouses include
grounds offer several other attractions. the Forestry Museum.
Exploring Lahemaa National Park since the late 19th century. The
resort is 2 km (1 mile) long and
The sheer size of Lahemaa National Park makes getting packed with elegant wooden
around it by bike or car the best option. When driving to houses from end to end.
Lahemaa along the Tallinn-Narva Highway, turn off at the The most distinctive building
in the village is the old Fire
crossroads at Viitna and head north towards Palmse village, Tower, which now houses an art
where there is a National Park Visitors’ Centre. From Palmse, it gallery. Its beach, with Blue Flag
is a relatively short drive to all the main villages, sites and status, is also one of the most
areas of natural beauty. Käsmu and Võsu make convenient attractive along the north coast.
hiking and cycling bases, with plenty of good accommodation, With its soft white sand and
although most places are often booked up well in advance pine-fringed dunes, it offers
gentle shade during the hot
during summer. summer days. It is also a
convenient base for further
explorations of Oandu and Altja.
} Käsmu
16 km (10 miles N of Palmse.) * 130.
0- Käsmu Maritime Museum:
Tel 323 8136. Open May–Sep:
10am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr:
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. ∑ kasmu.ee
Approximately 6 km (4 miles)
long and 3 km (2 miles) wide,
Käsmu village is situated on the
smallest of the four peninsulas
in Lahemaa National Park. It is
often referred to as the prettiest
Regal interior of the ornately decorated Palmse Manor House village in the region due to its
proudly kept homesteads.
P Palmse Manor House landscaped. In summer, visitors Käsmu has a history as a
8 km (5 miles) N of Viitna. Tel 324 can take a boat tour of the shipbuilding centre of repute
0070. Open May–Sep: 10am–7pm serene Swan Lake and soak up in the 19th century, while the
daily, Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm daily. & the surrounding tranquility. largely ice-free bay made it a
8 call in advance. 7 0 - regular place of anchor in winter.
∑ palmse.ee } Võsu A maritime school was set up
The attractive village of Palmse 8 km (5 miles) N of Palmse. in the village in 1884 and the
is the ideal starting point for a * 480. @ from Tallinn. 0 - building now houses the
tour of the enchanting Lahemaa ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe Käsmu Maritime Museum.
National Park. It also has a well- A charming and quiet little The museum’s emphasis is on
run visitors’ centre. The focus of coastal village, Võsu is a popular the 1920s and 30s through
the village is the splendid holiday resort. Its peaceful World War II and the Soviet era,
Palmse Manor House, an ambience and stunning natural and it has an eclectic collection
elegant Baroque building that beauty have made it a favourite of artifacts honouring the
originally served as a Cistercian summer getaway for families village’s seafaring past.
convent. In 1677, it became the Käsmu is also called the
family home of the von Pahlens, Captain’s Village, because of the
a leading family of Baltic barons. 62 captains who resided here
Today, the manor house between World War I and World
serves as a museum, offering War II. It was decimated by the
an interesting overview of the Soviets in the 1940s, with many
estate’s history. The old distillery families sent to Siberia and
has been converted into a hotel others fleeing across the sea.
with an excellent restaurant, Today, the village enjoys a
while a lovely café now reputation as one of the best
occupies the bathhouse. holiday resorts in the park.
The manor house runs a wine It also boasts a fascinating
tour, where visitors can enjoy a coastline strewn with giant
glass of sparkling wine or locally erratic boulders, a large
produced wine made from scattering of which lie in a
berries grown in the nearby stone field near the village. This
Brest Pavilion. The manor Tourists enjoying themselves at the is the highlight of the famous
grounds are beautifully pine-fringed beach in Võsu Käsmu Boulder Walk (see p114).
} Altja and lush pine forest. Visitors are

15 km (9 miles) E of Võsu. Altja Tavern: likely to spot tracks left by
Tel 520 9156. Open May–Sep: 11am– foraging wild boar, elk and
9pm daily; Oct–Apr: 11am– 8pm brown bears.
Sun–Thu, 11am–9pm Fri–Sat.
0 Oandu: 10 km (6 miles) S of Võsu. Viinistu
 free National Park campsite.
9 km (6 miles) W of Käsmu. * 150.
∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe 0 - Viinistu Art Museum: Tel 5373
Situated to the east of Lahemaa 6446. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
National Park, Altja is a lovely & ∑ viinistu.ee
tiny fishing village that skirts the Lying on the eastern tip of the
rugged coastline of the park. Its Pärispea Peninsula, the village
main landmark is a large of Viinistu is an
wooden swing that intriguing little place.
stands in an open It profited from the
space at the eastern smuggling of
end of the village. vodka to Finland
Just beyond, during prohibition The beautiful 18th-century manor house
along the beach, in the 1920s, but at Sagadi Manor
are the abandoned during the Soviet
huts of fishermen. era it was incor- P Sagadi Manor
The village’s timber Water barrel, porated into the 8 km (5 miles) NE of Palmse. Tel 676
houses with Viinistu Art Museum nearby Loksa indus- 7888. Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm
thatched roofs make trial complex. daily; Oct–Apr: by prior arrangement.
it seem like an open-air Today, it has been reinvented & 8 call in advance. 7 -
museum. There is a picturesque due to the efforts of Jaan ∑ sagadi.ee
wooden suspension bridge. Manitsky (b.1943), a wealthy Built in 1749, Sagadi Manor
Beyond Altja, in nearby local businessman who opened (Sagadi mõis) consists of several
Oandu, there are two fantastic a hotel and the Viinistu Art buildings symmetrically laid out
nature trails where visitors can Museum by the harbour. The around a sprawling courtyard in
get a taste of Lahemaa National museum has an impressive front, with a manicured park
Park’s varied forest landscape. collection of 20th-century and pond to the rear. The attrac-
The 2-km (1-mile) long Oandu Estonian art and uses two tive 18th-century Baroque
Beaver Trail passes by several converted water-towers for manor house is now home to
beaver dams and countless temporary exhibitions. a museum which offers an
skilfully gnawed tree stumps. The harbour has been authentic glimpse of the lives of
The 5-km (3-mile) long circular restored and it is possible to the Baltic-German aristocratic
Oandu Forest Nature Trail travel northeast from Viinistu family who lived here in the
passes through sweet-smelling to the barren Mohni Island. mid-18th century. The manor
house later served as a primary
school and part of a collective
farm until it finally opened as a
museum in 1987.
The Baroque gatehouse, which
used to be the main entrance to
the manor house, is particularly
grand. There are also some truly
fascinating sculptures scattered
around the grounds.
Today, the outhouses on
one side of the courtyard are
occupied by the Forestry
Museum (Metsamuuseum),
which provides a detailed
overview of the diverse flora
and fauna of Estonia’s forests.
Housed in the building nearby
is a hotel called Sagadi Manor
(see p298). A former bailiff’s
residence now serves as the
Sagadi hostel. The historic estate
is also home to a Nature School
where ecological research is
Wooden swing in the quaint fishing village of Altja carried out.
Käsmu Boulder Walk

The smallest of the four peninsulas in Lahemaa, Käsmu
boasts the most impressive chain of boulders. These form
a formidable outcrop in the shallow waters, creating a
dramatic coastline. Old Jüri, the tallest boulder at 5.5 m
(18 ft), lies just off the northwest tip. Starting from Käsmu
village, a path leads along the coast to the northwest tip
of the peninsula before turning back towards the village
through dense forest. There are clearly marked hiking Cosy wooden cottage snuggled in the heart
trails and a cycling route. of Käsmu village
Saartneem
Island
Gulf of Finland
Er u Bay
Käsmu
Bay
2 Saartneem
A path leads from
3 Scenic Views Käsmu village to the
One of the most northwest tip of the
stunning routes in the peninsula, where a
park, this path follows chain of erratic boulders
the whole length of stretches out to the
the coast. island of Saartneem.
Käsmu
Peninsula
4 Cycle Route
The scenic bicycle route
is about 14 km (9 miles) Lake Võsu
Käsmu
long and is marked with
blue ribbons.
1 Käsmu Village
Key Käsmu village is one of
the most popular resorts
Walk route in Lahemaa. With plenty
Bicycle route of B&B accommodation,
Other road it is an ideal base for
exploring the Käsmu
Peninsula as a whole,
as well as the other
regions of Lahemaa.
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Käsmu village.
Length: 11 km (7 miles).
Walking trails: An 11-km (7-mile)
long path marked with red
ribbons leads north of Käsmu 5 Erratic Boulders
village from Old Jüri. A shorter The Stone Plantation on the
walk is the path west of Käsmu trail west of Käsmu village has
village, which leads through the a bizarre expanse of boulders. 0 km 1
Stone Plantation. These attract a large number
of visitors to the area. 0 miles 1

2 Kohtla water has carved its way

Underground through a bed of 470 to
570 million-year-old rocks
Mining Museum to create an amazing sight.
Kohtla kaevanduspark-muuseum
Road Map E1. Tel 332 4017. @ from Environs
Kohtla-Järve. Open May–Sep: 11am– The beautiful Oru Park, Toila
7pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun & Mon; is located 14 km (9 miles) east
Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. & of Ontika Coast and is worth
8 book in advance. 0 summer
visiting. The park is spread
only. ∑ kaevanduspark.ee
out over an area of 1 sq km
(0.4 sq m) along the coast.
Undoubtedly one of the most
fascinating museums in Estonia, Exhibit at the intriguing Kohtla
Kohtla Underground Mining Underground Mining Museum 4 Sillamäe
Museum is located in the Road Map E1. * 17,000. @ from
sprawling industrial area of before World War II, it saw speedy Tallinn, Narva. ∑ sillamae.ee
Kohtla-Nõmme. Set in a massive development during the Soviet
oil-shale mining complex, the era with the expansion of the Situated midway between
museum operates guided tours oil-shale mines in the area. Kohtla-Järve and Narva,
in which the history, technology Sillamäe makes for a fascinating
and purpose of mining are excursion. This Soviet-era town
explained before visitors are 3 Ontika Coast was the site of a uranium mine
taken to explore the dark, damp Road Map E1. @ from Tallinn to for the Soviet nuclear
labyrinth of the mines. Jõhvi, then bus or taxi to Toila, Ontika. programme. However, it was
Visitors can see the infernal ∑ ida-virumaa.ee so secret that it was not even
mining machines at work and marked on official maps.
can even attempt to drill for oil- The coastal limestone cliff of The town is a living example
shale or ride an underground Ontika forms one of the most of the more elegant side of
bike. There is also the added striking areas of natural beauty late-Stalinist residential
option of sampling a miner’s in Estonia. Sprawling over architecture. Many of the
lunch under ground. almost 20 km (12 miles) ornately decorated apartment
The outdoor tour continues between Saka and Toila, the blocks set along tree-lined
on to the very impressive Ontika cliff is the highest point boulevards and manicured
mountains of mined stone and of the North Estonian limestone parks are very attractive. The
it is possible to see one of the escarpment. At Ontika, the cliff mine was closed in 1991 and
biggest diggers in the world. reaches a height of 57 m (184 ft) a number of other industries
Wall and mountain climbing are and offers a view across the Gulf have since moved in. Sillamäe
some of the adventure sports of Finland. Valaste, which lies is slowly but surely reinventing
offered here. Located nearby is 5 km (3 miles) east, has Estonia’s itself as an upcoming coastal
the vast industrial town of highest waterfall. The 26-m and historical tourist
Kohtla-Järve. A small town (85-ft) stream of cascading destination of interest.
The limestone cliffs set against the azure Baltic Sea, Ontika Coast
5 Narva
Road Map E1. * 65,000. £ from
Tallinn. @ from Tallinn, Tartu.
n Peetri 3, 359 9137. _ Narva Days
(early Jun), Narva History Festival
(Aug). ∑ narva.ee
After centuries of being bitterly

fought over, Narva now marks
the EU border with Russia.
Although most of the city’s
much-admired medieval centre
was levelled by the Soviet air
force towards the end of World
War II, there is still plenty to see
and do.
On the west coast of the
Narva river stands the imp-
ressive Narva Castle, whose
main tower, Tall Hermann,
houses the predominantly
war-themed Narva Museum.
A splendid riverside park
surrounds the castle.
With a population that is 96
per cent Russian-speaking, Narva
has a different feel from Tallinn.
The city is also close to a number
of attractions in the area.
E Narva Museum Exterior of Dormition Cathedral at Pühtitsa Convent in Kuremäe

Tel 359 9230. Open 10am–6pm daily.
& ∑ narvamuuseum.ee Present-day Narva-Jõesuu it a cheerful air. The convent
enjoys a white sandy beach, a also has a hostel for guests
lively nightlife and a booming and pilgrims.
water-sports industry.
R Pühtitsa Convent
Tel 337 0715. Open 7am–7pm daily.
7 Kuremäe 8 5 = ∑ orthodox.ee
Road Map E1. * 370. @ from

Tallinn, Narva.
8 Rakvere
The small village of Kuremäe Road Map D1. * 17,000. @ from
is celebrated for its Russian Tallinn, Narva. n Laada 14, 324 2734.
Orthodox Pühtitsa Convent, ∑ rakvere.kovtp.ee
one of the most notable sights
in Estonia. The convent was The town of Rakvere, with
Narva Castle, home to the war-themed founded in 1891 and today restored historic buildings and
Narva Museum some 150 nuns live there. a striking main square, has been
There are six churches in the transformed into an attractive
6 Narva-Jõesuu complex, which tourist destination.
Road Map E1. * 2,600. @ from
is dominated Its most famous
Narva. 0 - ∑ narva-joesuu.ee by the striking landmark, the 13th-
Dormition century Rakvere Castle
The attractive summer resort of Cathedral, built in on Linnamägi Hill, is
Narva-Jõesuu is famed for its 1910. The convent is now a medieval theme
pristine beach. Lined with pine surrounded by a thick park. The exhibits cover
trees and old wooden houses, granite wall and has a the castle’s history from
the beach stretches for 7 km majestic entrance its early existence until
(4 miles) from Narva-Jõesuu to gate with seven it fell to ruins. A
Meriküla. It was a fashionable large bells. The grand and slightly
spa resort in the 19th century bright façade and Picasso-esque
and was popular with pristine appearance Statue of a bull on Vallimägi statue of a bull,
St Petersburg’s high society. of the place gives Hill, Rakvere created by local
artist Tauno Kangro (b.1966), to explore than the larger the Järvamaa Museum offers
stands on top of Vallimägi Hill national parks. One of the a much broader look at the
and is a new symbol for the six hiking trails, the stunning nature and history of the area.
town. Rakvere’s inhabitants are Männikjärve Trail, stretches for The Town Hall Square is the
proud of the fact that the 1 km (half a mile) over a long focal point of the well-kept
renowned composer Arvo Pärt plank platform. To the east of town centre and offers a small
(see p27) went to school and the reserve, Emumägi Hill is variety of decent restaurants
began his music studies here. the area’s highest point. Its and cafés.
observation tower offers a
+ Rakvere Castle superb view of the countryside. E Järvamaa Museum
Vallimägi. Tel 322 5500. Open May– Lembitu 5. Tel 385 1867.
Sep: 11am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr: Open Apr–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–Sat;
10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & @ svm.ee Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
∑ jarvamaamuuseum.ee
9 Väike-Maarja
Road Map D1. * 5,000.
w Põltsamaa
@ from Rakvere. n Pikk 3, 326 1625. Road Map D2. * 5,000. @ from
∑ v-maarja.ee Tallinn, Tartu. n Lossi 1, 775 1390.
∑ poltsamaa.ee
A typical parochial Estonian
town, Väike-Maarja is steeped The idyllic town of Põltsamaa is
in history and has a number set amid the ruins of Põltsamaa
of quirky sights of interest. Castle. Once the centre of power
Housing the local tourism for Duke Magnus, the king of
information centre, the Väike- The medieval octagonal tower Livonia in the 16th century, the
Maarja Museum offers an amid castle ruins, Paide castle stronghold is an amazingly
eclectic and detailed overview eclectic jigsaw of archtectural
of the town’s history, including q Paide styles. The exquisite Rococo
exhibits showing how the Road Map D1. * 9,000. @ from
palace was built in the 18th
Forest Brothers (see p122) used Tallinn. n Keskväljak 8, 385 0400. century on the site of an old
to live. It is also possible to ∑ paide.ee convent, while the elegant
have a “Forest Brothers’ picnic” Lutheran St Nicholas’s Church
in a reconstructed bunker. Located in the centre of Estonia, dates from 1633 and was re-
Other interesting sights Paide makes the ideal base from constructed in 1952. Located in
include a Soviet missile base, which to explore the heartland an old storehouse in the castle
the Vao Stronghold Tower of the country. To emphasize its yard, the Põltsamaa Museum
Museum and the 14th-century central location, the town has boasts some fine exhibits.
town church. adopted a heart shape as its
official logo. Paide’s biggest R St Nicholas’s Church
R Väike-Maarja Museum tourist draw is the beautifully Lossi 3. Tel 776 9915. Open Jun–Aug:
Pikk 3. Tel 326 1625. Open May–Sep: restored 13th-century 10am–3pm daily. 5 11am Sun. &
10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Oct–Apr: octagonal castle tower and E Põltsamaa Museum
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. surrounding ruins. The tower Loss tänav 1. Tel 775 1390.
houses a museum focusing on Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
the town’s early history, while Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat. &
0 Endla Nature
Reserve
Endla Looduskaitseala
Road Map D1. @ from Tartu.
n Reserve Headquarters, Tooma,
70 km (43 miles) NW of Tartu, 676
7999. 8 call in advance.
∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
A scenic maze of peat bogs,

rivers, swamp forests and lakes,
the Endla Nature Reserve is
considered to be one of the
most important freshwater
systems in the country.
Although the reserve straddles
three counties, its relatively
small size makes it much easier Well-maintained church inside the castle grounds at Põltsamaa
e Tartu P Tartu University Main

Building
Best known for being home to the venerable Tartu University, Ülikooli 18. Tel 737 5384. Open 11am–
the city is frequently referred to as the intellectual capital of 5pm Mon–Fri. & 8 7 ∑ ut.ee
Estonia. The university was founded in 1632 by King Gustav Finished in 1809, Tartu University
Main Building (Tartu ülikooli
Adolphus of Sweden (1594–1632) and has played a major role peahoone) is one of Estonia’s
in Estonian history ever since. With the second-largest finest Neo-Classical buildings. It
population in the country, Tartu has a thriving cultural scene contains the impressive Art
and exciting nightlife, and makes a convenient base from Museum, from where the
which to explore the southeast of the country. imposing Assembly Hall and the
far more amusing Lock-Up can
be visited. Unruly students were
confined to the Lock-Up as
punishment, and their doodles
and scribbles, which adorn its
walls, make for amusing reading.
R St John’s Church
Jaani 5. Tel 744 2229. Open May–
Sep: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–
1pm Sun. & 5 11am Sun.
∑ jaanikirik.ee
Dating from 1330, St John’s
Church (Jaani kirik) was severely
damaged by bombing during
World War II. However, even after
Town Hall Square, with the Kissing Students Fountain in the centre extensive renovations and the
addition of a new spire in 1999,
P Town Hall Square pink Town Hall overlooking it the church remains one of the
Tartu’s historic centre is set from the top. The Great Fire of best examples of brick Gothic
around Town Hall Square 1775 burned down most of the architecture in Northern Europe.
(Raekoja plats), with the city and today the square’s Neo- Hundreds of elaborate
Emajõgi river in the front and Classical look is in sync with the terracotta figures, dating from
Toome-mägi (see pp120–21) just rest of the city centre. The the Middle Ages, adorn the
behind it. The gently sloping famous Kissing Students church’s interior. It is believed
cobble-stoned square is dis- Fountain, in front of the Town that there were originally more
tinctly Neo-Classical, with the Hall, was erected in 1998. than 1,000 of them.
Tartu
1 Town Hall Square
MA G AS IN
2 Tartu University
RÜÜ
Main Building St John’s

Church MU
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A
JA
TLI
U
I
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3 St John’s Church
AN
LU
I
I
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4 Tartu Art Museum
USE
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5 Father and Son K A GILD
MA
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Emajõg
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PA
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Tartu University I
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Main Building KÜ
Tartu Art
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TOOMEMÄGI
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Hall Square O JA
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RA 100 m (110 yards)
KÜ
Cathedral SS
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P OBus Station
I
LO Angel’s 320 m (350 yards)

SS Bridge
I
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0 metres 150
IK
Father and
O
Railway Station Son Statue

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1.5 km (1 mile) Devil’s

LI
0 yards 150 Bridge

University
Estonian Observatory
National Museum
Tartu Airport
3.5 km (2 miles)
Key VI
KGB Cells
IK RAA Museum
ALL
Street-by-Street area V
see pp120–21

E KGB Cells Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Riia 15b. Tel 746 1717.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8 Practical Information
∑ linnamuuseum.tartu.ee Road Map E2. * 100,000.
In the basement of the regional n Raekoja plats 9, 744 2111. _
headquarters of the KGB/NKVD Tartu City Day (29 Jun), Student
(People’s Commissariat for Days (around 1 May). ∑ tartu.ee
Internal Affairs), the KGB Cells Transport
Museum (KGB kongid) offers k £ A3, Vaksali 6, 1.5 km (1 mile)
grim testimony to the nightmare W of centre. @ C2, Soola 2, E of
of the Soviet occupation. Some the centre. 4 Narva mnt 2.
of the former cells have been
turned into exhibition spaces,
while others have been restored E Estonian National
to their original condition to give Museum
a picture of what so many Kuperjanovi 9. Tel 735 0445.
Estonians suffered under the Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Leaning building in which the Tartu Art Soviet regime. Much attention is call in advance. 7 - = ∑ erm.ee
Museum is housed paid to the mass deportations Estonia’s most important
that took place between 1940 ethnological centre, the Estonian
E Tartu Art Museum and 1949, including the official National Museum (Eesti rahva
Raekoja plats 18. Tel 744 1920. plans for carrying them out. muuseum) boasts over one
Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 There are gut-wrenching artifacts million artifacts collected since
call in advance. - ∑ tartmus.ee from the Gulags, the notorious 1909. The museum focuses on
Housing one of the finest correction camps where Estonia and other Finno-Ugric
collections in the country, thousands of Estonians died. cultures, and its collection
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu covers every imaginable aspect
kunstimuuseum) features the of life. From chairs made of
works of prominent Estonian gnarled birch wood to warped
artists such as Elmar Kits (1913– wooden beer tankards, the
72), Ülo Sooster (1924–70) and displayed objects eloquently
Marko Mäetamm (b.1965). A attest to a way of life that seems
thorough and captivating quaintly anachronistic today.
overview of Estonian art, which In addition, there are vast
spans the 19th century through photographic and documental
to the present, is also provided. archives and a fascinating
The museum’s other impressive costume collection, which
aspect is the building that houses includes a punk jacket (circa
it. Leaning conspicuously to one 1982–85). The museum is
side, it belonged to the famous dedicated to the great Estonian
Russian Field Marshal Barclay de folklorist and linguist Jakob
Tolly (see p122), who successfully Hurt (1839–1907). The
led the Russian army against museum occasionally holds
Napoleon in 1812. temporary exhibitions that
A desk in the KGB Museum, with Stalin’s encompass themes from
Father and Son Statue portrait on the wall furniture to photography.
Küüni (close to Poe St).
Originally planned for Tallinn,
this delightful little statue by Karl Ernst von Baer (1792–1876)
Ülo Õun (1940–88) was con- A Baltic-German biologist, Karl Ernst von Baer
ceived in 1977. It was cast in was one of the founders of embryology. His
bronze in 1987, purchased by pioneering work in this area was recognized
the Tartu Town Government in by Charles Darwin, although Baer himself
2001 and, finally, unveiled on was extremely critical of the theory of
Children’s Day (1 June) in 2004. evolution. Baer studied at Tartu University
The father figure is modelled and later taught at Königsberg and the
St Petersburg Academy of Sciences, before
after the sculptor, and the child
living out his last years in Tartu. A statue of
is modelled after his son Baer, looking pensive, takes pride of place
Kristjan, when he was around on a plinth on Toomemägi. A rather
18 months old. Interestingly, endearing tradition takes place every year,
both father and son are on the eve of St Philip’s Day (1 May),
proportionately equal in this when Tartu University students wash Statue of Karl Ernst von Baer
highly unusual and extremely Baer’s bronze hair. on Toomemägi
touching monument.
Street-by-Street: Toomemägi
With its labyrinthine layout of narrow, winding streets and
elegant historic buildings, Toomemägi (Cathedral Hill) is
full of delightful surprises. In medieval times a fortress
and cathedral stood on the hill but both were abandoned
during the Livonian Wars (1558–83). Today, Toomemägi is
home to a variety of prominent public buildings. Many of
them belong to Tartu University, which was re-established
here in 1802. There are several impressive monuments to
some of the university’s most esteemed graduates in the
landscaped parks dotted around the hillside. The hill also Statue of two Wildes outside Vilde’s Health
Café (see p319)
commands some wonderful rooftop views of the city of
Tartu spread out below.
Devil’s Bridge
The bridge was built
in 1913 to honour
three centuries of
rule by the Russian
Romanov dynasty. The
bridge was dedicated
to Tsar Alexander I.
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
K
LI
Ü
. University Observatory
When it was built in 1820, the
observatory had the most . Angel Bridge
powerful achromatic tele- It is a local tradition to
scope in the world. It was hold one’s breath and make
separated from the university a wish while crossing this
in 1946 and now serves as a 19th-century yellow-and-
science centre. black bridge.
Cathedral Ruins
The massive ruins bear testimony to the
original grandeur of the cathedral. Damaged
during the Livonian Wars, it was rebuilt as a
library after the reopening of the university in
1802. Visitors can climb the renovated towers.
The sacrificial
stone was the site
of worship for
pagan Estonians.
. Statue of Karl Ernst von Baer

This impressive monument
befits Tartu University’s most
eminent graduate and founder
of modern embryology.
L
O
S
S
I
Tartu University
When the first students registered here in
1632, it was only the second university in
the province of Swedish Livonia. Since its
establishment, the university has played a
crucial role in Estonia’s history.
LI
O
O
Town Hall
Dating back to 1786, the current Town
Hall is the third of its kind to occupy this
position at the heart of Tartu. Its elegant
early Classicist architecture was considered
very fashionable in the 18th century.
r Lake Võrtsjärv
Road Map D2. @ from Viljandi,
Otepää. n Visitor Centre, Rannu,
527 5630. Open May–Sep: 10am–
6pm daily; Oct: 11am–5pm daily;
Nov–Apr: by arrangement. 8
∑ vortsjarv.ee
Straddling the counties of

Viljandi, Tartu and Valga, Lake
Võrtsjärv is the second-largest
lake in Estonia after Lake Peipsi
(see p127). The northern part of
the lake has some beautiful
sandy beaches, while the
southern part is swampier. Magnificent view of Otepää, set amid lush landscape
The Visitor Centre is a great
place to gather information surrounding landscape. A y Otepää
before your visit, and you can crucial staging post on the Road: Map E2. * 2,300. @ from
also rent a canoe or boat from Hanseatic trade route (see p36), Tartu, Võru, Tallinn. n Tartu mnt 1,
here. There are several attractions Viljandi emerged as one of 766 1200. _ Tartu Marathon (Feb).
scattered around the lake. Estonia’s leading strongholds in ∑ otepaa.ee
The mausoleum of Barclay de the 16th century. By the end
Tolly (1757–1818), the Russian of the 19th century, the local Situated amid the beautiful
general credited with helping area had become one of the rolling hills of southeast
to defeat Napoleon, is in wealthiest in Estonia. Estonia, Otepää is equally
Jõgeveste, south of the lake. Viljandi is notable for its well- popular as a summer and
The bagpipe farm in Riidaja, at preserved historic buildings, winter holiday retreat. The
the southwest corner of the with an abundance of pretty town also holds a special
lake, is one of the area’s more timber cottages and early place in Estonian history. In
unusual sights. A popular 20th-century brick houses. 1884 the national flag was
summer activity is to take a tour In the small plaza, at the consecrated in the parish
of the lake aboard a kalepur- junction of Lossi and Tartu, is a church, which now houses
jekas, a traditional sailboat. statue that pays homage to Carl the Flag Museum. The totemic
Robert Jakobson (1841–82). This Energy Column at Mäe Street
zealous 19th-century Estonian is an intriguing reminder of
nationalist helped get the how strongly pagan beliefs
National Awakening underway prevail in Estonia.
by founding the Estonian- Lake Pühajärv, 3 km
language newspaper Sakala in (2 miles) south of Otepää, has
Viljandi in 1878. The statue is the some splendid beaches and
main focal point for the town. dining spots from which to
Viljandi is also a major centre enjoy the magnificent scenery.
for folk art and music, with
a large music academy and a E Flag Museum
popular yearly festival. Tel 765 5075. Open 11am-4pm Tue-Sat.
The Forest Brothers

After the Soviet Union reoccupied Estonia
A section of the medieval castle on Castle in 1944, thousands of men fled to the
Hill, Viljandi woods to take up arms. They became
known as the Forest Brothers and
t Viljandi fought a guerrilla-style campaign
Road Map D2. * 20,000. £ from against the Soviet system, most
Tallinn. @ from Tartu. n Vabaduse 6, prominently in Viljandi and Tartu,
433 0442. _ Viljandi Folk Festival (late with strong support from locals.
Jul). ∑ viljandi.ee However, the NKVD units ruthlessly
targeted the partisans’ families and
The pleasant town of Viljandi is by 1949 their support network had
centred on the medieval castle largely been broken. By 1953, only a
ruins sitting atop Castle Hill, few of the Forest Brothers were left. An underground bunker used
which afford spectacular views The last active member died in 1980. by Forest Brothers
of the nearby lake and
Skiing and Snowboarding

Skiing is a popular winter pastime in Estonia. When Estonia won three gold medals for
skiing events at the 2006 Winter Olympics, the medallists were hailed as national heroes
and “ski fever” gripped the country. Although Estonia has a flat terrain, there are
numerous ski hills, such as the 318-m (1,043-ft) high Suur Munamägi, that offer snow-
boarding and downhill skiing. There are many ski resorts around Otepää. However, since
Estonia is blanketed in snow throughout winter, the ski resorts are crowded until spring.
The annual Tartu Ski Marathon (see p53) is held at Kuutsemäe Ski Resort and has seen as
many as 10,000 participants. Snowboarding is also fast gaining popularity in the region
and Baltic snowboarders compete with the best in Europe in “trick park” acrobatics.
The Tartu Ski Marathon

is one of the highlights
of the winter sports
calendar in Estonia.
This 63-km (39-mile)
WorldLoppet series event
attracts competitors from
all over the world.
The festive proceedings
also provide plenty of
other skiing activities
for non-professionals
as well as children.
Winter time in Otepää draws hordes of ski-

lovers, as this idyllic “Winter Capital” has
several resorts, such as the one on Väike
Munamägi (Small Egg Hill), 2 km (1 mile)
from Otepää. Snowboarding, ice skating and
snowtubing are popular in this attractive
southern town.
Kristina Šmigun-Vähi (b.1977)

A cross-country skier, Tartu-born Kristina Šmigun has Kuutsemäe Ski Resort is a seven-slope
achieved remarkable success in her field, which has skiing facility about 14 km (9 miles)
made her a national hero among sports enthusiasts in outside Otepää. Its cross-country skiing
Estonia. Her parents, Anatoli Šmigun and Rutt Rehemaa, tracks are well marked out.
were also successful skiers. Kristina has won six medals at
the FIS Nordic World
Championships, including a
gold medal in 2003. Her
Andrus Veerpalu
greatest success to date,
(b. 1971), winner of
however, was to become two Olympic gold
the first Estonian woman to medals and one silver
win two gold medals at medal, is Estonia’s most
the 2006 Turin Winter successful Olympic
Olympic Games. She won athlete. The cross-
the 2 x 7.5 km (4.5 miles) country skier has
double pursuit and the Kristina Šmigun at the Turin also won gold and
10 km (6 miles) classical. Winter Olympic Games silver in the World
Championships.
farm buildings, which are

surrounded by the tranquil
and beautiful forests of the
Võru countryside. The
museum offers plenty of
activities for visitors and special
events are regularly held
throughout the summer, which
focus on the essential aspects
of traditional rural life such as
milking cows, working with
wood and flax and baking
bread. Apart from trying their
The English Gothic Revival exterior of Sangaste Manor hands at authentic farm work,
visitors can also spin yarn, roll
u Sangaste Manor ground floor used to hold grand linen and make rope. One of
Sangaste loss balls and still retains an air of the most interesting activities
grandeur, while the spacious is learning how Estonian
Road Map D2. Tel 767 9300. @ from
Tartu, Otepää. Open 10am–4pm daily.
dining room, which is criss- farmers used local plants
& 8 call in advance. 7 0 - crossed with Tudor-style rafters, and trees to treat ailments.
∑ sangasteloss.com is particularly impressive.
Sangaste is surrounded by a
One of the most attractive 0.8-sq-km (0.3-sq-mile) forest
buildings of its kind in Estonia, park, making it a favourite place
Sangaste Manor was built in for wedding receptions.
the English Gothic Revival style
between 1879 and 1883. It
was commissioned by Count i Mõniste Open-Air
Friedrich von Berg to prove to Museum
an English aristocrat, whose Mõniste muuseum
daughter he was wooing, that
Road Map E2. Kuutsi, Mõniste village.
he was not the “savage from
Tel 789 0622. @ from Tartu.
Russia” that the prejudiced Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily,
nobleman deemed him to be. Oct–Apr: 10am–2pm Mon–Fri. & 8
Sangaste’s striking redbrick ∑ monistemuuseum.ee
façade, crenellated gables and
elegant towers lend it the Established in 1948, Mõniste
appearance of a whimsical Open-Air Museum is the oldest
castle rather than a parochial museum of its kind in the St Mary’s Church, set in lush rolling
manor house. The arched country. It is located in fields, Rõuge
vestibule Dome Hall on the 19th- and early 20th-century
o Rõuge
The Setu People Road Map E2. * 440. @ from
Võru. n Haanja mnt, 785 9312.
Living in the southeast of Estonia, Open May– Sep: 10am–6pm daily.
the Setu people form a distinct ∑ rouge.kovtp.ee
ethnographic group. Unlike the
majority of Estonians, the Setu are The small village of Rõuge
Orthodox, having lived in a region perfectly embodies the languid
that was Christianized by the Russian charm of southeast Estonia
Orthodox Church. They also have and is considered by many
their own unique language, known Estonians to be the most
as Võru-Setu, which differs beautiful village in the country.
considerably from standard Estonian.
Situated on the shores of Lake
Traditional Setu folk music is among
Rõuge Suurjärv, the deepest in
the most beautiful in Estonia,
although its plaintive polyphonic the country at 38 m (125 ft),
form is strikingly Slavic-sounding. and with the magnificent Valley
The Setu people are also famous for of the Nightingales looming
A Setu woman wearing a traditional their traditional costumes and behind it, the village is an
headdress and full-skirted dress handicrafts. The best starting point exceptionally tranquil place.
to explore Setu culture is Obinitsa. There are a series of nature trails
Located at the centre of Setumaa, or “the Land of the Setu”, the through the valley which start
little village celebrates several Setu festivals. behind St Mary’s Church. The
church dates back to 1730 and
was the site of an Estonian

F R Kreutzwald (1803–82)
stronghold until the 12th
century. Adjacent to the church One of Estonia’s best-loved writers, Friedrich
is an old wooden school dating Reinhold Kreutzwald is revered as one of
from 1888 which has some the most pivotal figures in the National
beautiful wooden carvings and Awakening of the 19th century. The
sculptures on its exterior. enormous body of literature created by
Opposite the church is a monu- him in the Estonian language still instils a
strong sense of identity and confidence
ment honouring the Estonians
among patriotic Estonians. Despite being
who lost their lives in the war of impoverished, he studied medicine at Tartu
independence (1918–20). University, where he developed a passion-
ate interest in national folklore. He wrote Kreutzwald Memorial
many epics based on Estonian folklore, the Monument in Võru
p Suur Munamägi most celebrated of which is Kalevipoeg
(Son of Kalev). Published between 1857 and 1859, it was part
Road Map E2. Tel 786 7514. @ from fiction, part influenced by existing folk stories.
Võru. Open Apr–Aug: 10am–8pm
daily; Sep–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
Nov–Mar: noon–3pm Sat & Sun. &
- ∑ suurmunamagi.ee
a Vastseliina
Road Map E2. @ from Võru. * 620.
Situated just south of the ∑ vastseliina.ee
village of Haanja, Suur
Munamägi (Great Egg Hill) The small town of Vastseliina is
is the highest point in the visited mainly for the 14th-
Baltic States. At a mere 318 m century castle located 4 km
(1,043 ft) above sea level, it (2 miles) east of it. The castle
gives an idea of how flat the was originally a border strong-
Baltic region is. However, the hold built by the Germans as a
surrounding landscape of defence against the Russians. It
farmsteads, forests and hills became the site of a miracle in
is breathtaking enough to 1353, when a cross was seen
merit a trip to the top of the suspended in the middle of the Well-preserved wooden house on Jüri
hill. On clear days, it is possible castle’s chapel altar. The incident Street in Võru
to see all the way to Russia was reported by the Bishop of
and Latvia. Rīga to Pope Innocent VI and s Võru
At the peak, there is an the castle subsequently became
Road Map E2. * 14,000. @
elegant observation tower a place of pilgrimage. In 1702, n Jüri 12, 782 1881. _ Võru Folklore
which was built in 1939 and the castle was completely Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ voru.ee
renovated to include the glass- destroyed during the Northern
fronted Suur Munamägi Tower War (1700–21), but the ruins are Situated in the centre of the
Café (see p319) and a lift. a vivid reminder of this once southeast corner of Estonia,
Delightfully quirky wooden fiercely contested area. Võru is a good base for explor-
carvings, which peer down from In Vana-Vastseliina, at the foot ing the surrounding region.
the trees, can be seen while of the castle hill, Piiri Tavern – The town is best known for its
walking up the steep path to first mentioned in 1695 – still impressive 18th-century
the top of the forested hill. serves food. wooden architecture.
Võru’s main sight is the
Kreutzwald Memorial Museum,
the former house of writer
F R Kreutzwald, who had a
medical practice in the town.
The sandy shores of Lake
Tamula almost reach the town
centre and are perfect for walks.
Environs
Obinitsa, 30 km (19 miles) east
of Võru, is the largest village of
the Setu community.
E Kreutzwald Memorial
Museum
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun;
View from the observation tower, Suur Munamägi Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
Sweeping view of Lake Põlva with the spire of St Mary’s Church in the background
d Põlva includes sandcliffs. The water- most beautiful. Close to the

mill is the largest redbrick Small Taevaskoja is the Maiden’s
Tartu. n Kooli 1, 799 5001. structure of its kind in the Baltic Cave, which was carved by the
_ Town Days (first weekend in June). region. There are many hiking spring water flowing out of the
∑ polva.ee trails that start at Kiidjärve Devonian sandstone and is also
village. Horse-riding, cycling a source of numerous legends
The town is set around the and canoeing are also popular and myths. Nearby is the Big
artificial Lake Põlva, whose ways to see the area. The Taevaskoja, a striking sandstone
sandy shores are crowded with famous Akste Anthills, some wall, widely regarded as a
sunbathers in summer. Legend of which stand 2 m (7 ft) high, national symbol.
has it that a girl was immured are among the area’s most
in a kneeling position in fascinating sights.
St Mary’s Church to keep the
devil away. This is reputedly
g Taevaskoja
how Põlva, meaning “knee”
in Estonian, got its name. Sandstone Cliffs
The town was developed Road Map E2. @ from Põlva.
around St Mary’s Church, £ from Tartu. 8 Taevaskoja Tourism
which lay in ruins for a long & Holiday Centre, 5373 6406.
period until it was rebuilt after ∑ taevaskoja.ee
the Northern War (see p37).
Nearby, the Cultural Centre, Taevaskoja, meaning “Heaven’s
an award-winning building, Hall”, is famous for its sandstone
houses an art gallery, concert cliffs and natural beauty. The Big
hall and café, and offers and Small Taevaskoja cliffs are
panoramic views of the town among the main attractions in
from its terraced roof. Põlva is the Põlva area. They run along
also famous for the Intsikurmu the striking Ahja river, which is Sandstone cliffs at Taevaskoja, along the
Song Festival Grounds. Set in a regarded as one of Estonia’s Ahja river
small forested area on the west
side of the town, it regularly
hosts concerts. The Russian Old Believers
Opposing the sweeping reforms brought about by Patriarch Nikon
(1605–81), the Old Believers split from the Russian Orthodox
f Kiidjärve Church in the 17th century. Due
Watermill to persecution, many moved to
southeast Estonia, especially near
Road Map E2. @ from Põlva. Lake Peipsi where they have adhered
n Kiidjärve village, 799 2122. to their traditional way of life ever
8 ∑ visitestonia.com since. Today, there are 11 congrega-
tions of Old Believers in Estonia, com-
Built in 1914, the Kiidjärve prising about 15,000 members. They
Watermill is situated in are known for their love of onions,
the Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja which they grow in abundance. It
Recreational Area, a 32-sq-km is a local belief that onions ward off
(12-sq-mile) pocket of stunning Congregation of Old Believers various ills if eaten in large amounts.
natural beauty that also
h Lake Peipsi
The fifth-largest lake in Europe, Lake Peipsi stretches across
a large part of the eastern border with Russia. It is a tranquil
place, steeped in history and tradition, with the immense
lake dominating every aspect of life. The region is famous
for being home to the Old Believers as well as the Setu
people (see p124). The lakeshore has beautiful stretches
of sandy beach dotted with small fishing villages.
Lohusuu
1 Mustvee Fishing, a common activity on the
A small museum coast of Lake Peipsi
dedicated to the Old
Believers and three
churches are the main ESTONIA
sights here.
Omedu RUSSIA
Ranna
2 Raja
Famed for its Old
Kallaste
Believers’ Church, the
4.5-km (3-mile) long
Raja is considered to 3 Kolkja
L a k e Pe i p si
be the longest village The Museum of Old
in Estonia. Believers is the
highlight of Kolkja. The
village also has a good
0 km Varnja
15 restaurant that offers a
0 miles 15 taste of local cuisine.
Meerapalu
Laaksaare
Mehikoorma
5 Piirissaar
This island, on
which fishermen
Räpina and onion-
growers live,
can be reached
4 Kasepää by boat
Kasepää is part of a 7-km (4-mile) from Tartu
stretch of villages that adhere to and Värska.
the Old Believers’ way of life.
Tips for Drivers

Starting point: Mustvee.
Length: The road stretching from
Mustvee to Varnja is 46 km
(28 miles) and Meerapalu to
Key
Värska is 56 km (35 miles).
Driving conditions: It is not 6 Värska Tour route
possible to drive the entire Sandy beaches and wildlife Other road
length. There are plenty of places make this village a pleasant
getaway. The Setu Village Ferry route
to stay just north of Kallaste.
Museum is a big draw. International border

LATVIA
Latvia at a Glance 130–131

A Portrait of Latvia 132–135
Latvia Through the Year 136–137
The History of Latvia 138–141
Rīga 142–165
Western Latvia 166–185
Eastern Latvia 186–203
130  L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Latvia at a Glance
Latvia is traditionally divided into four regions, roughly
ESTONIA
corresponding to the territories of the old Baltic tribes.
Its long, sandy coastline includes two of the country’s
largest ports, while the western region of Kurzeme is LAT VIA
heavily forested in the north. To the south, the flat and

fertile plains of Zemgale border Lithuania. In the north, LITHUANIA
Vidzeme has the most varied landscape, with a long

coastline as well as forests, wetlands and hills. Bordering
Russia and Belarus, the culturally distinct easternmost
Latgale region remains largely rural and undeveloped.
Rīga (see pp142–65) is the largest

city in the Baltic region, boasting a
UNESCO-listed historic centre and
one of the world’s greatest collections
of Art Nouveau architecture.
Ainaži
Salacgrīva
Limbaži
Ventspils Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
Talsi Lake Saulkrasti
Lake Engure
Usmas
Engure Sigulda
Kuldīga Tukums Jūrmala

Pāvilosta Rīga
WESTERN LATVIA RĪGA
(see pp166–185) (see pp142–165)
Ogre
Aizpute Olaine
Saldus Lielvārde
Durbe Skrunda
Liepāja Dobele Jelgava
Iecava
Lake Auce
Liepāja Priekule
Bauska
Rundāle Palace (see pp172–3), Latvia’s

most impressive surviving stately
home, was designed by Rastrelli
(1700–71), the Italian architect of St
Petersburg’s Winter Palace. Most of the
rooms at the palace are decorated in
the fanciful Rococo style of the second
half of the 18th century.
Picturesque Old Town as seen from a church tower in Rīga
L AT V I A AT A G L A N C E  131
Gauja National Park (see pp190–

93) is one of the most attractive
parts of the country and a popular
destination for both local and
foreign tourists. In addition to
providing a compelling mix of
natural attractions and historic
sites, it also offers some of
Latvia’s best opportunities for
outdoor activities, from
canoeing to bobsleighing.
0 km 25
0 miles 25
Valka
Lake
Burtnieks
Valmiera
Smiltene Alūksne
Cēsis
The Latgale lakes area (see

Gulbene Balvi p202) is studded with many
Vecpiebalga lakes. Although the Latgale
EASTERN LATVIA Uplands rise no higher than
(see pp186–203) 300 m (984 ft), the crystal-clear
Ērgļi
lakes enhance the beauty of
Madona this region, which is blessed
Lake
Lubāns with unspoiled countryside.
Skrīveri
Ludza
Rēzekne
Jēkabpils
Lake
Līvāni Preiļi Rāzna
Aglona
Daugavpils Krāslava
Aglona (see p199), the most important site of

Catholic pilgrimage in the region, is famed for a
17th-century icon of the Virgin Mary which is
only displayed on special occasions. The
busiest day of the year is the feast of the
Assumption, on 15 August, when thousands
of visitors flock to the Baroque church.
A P O R T R A I T O F L AT V I A  133
A PORTRAIT OF LATVIA
Lying between the other two Baltic States, Latvia is characterized by delightful
forests and lakes, fascinating historic towns and dynamic cities, which are, by
and large, unexplored. Nonetheless, the country’s exciting capital, Rīga, draws
hordes of Western Europeans throughout the year. The largest city in the Baltic
region, Rīga boasts a well-preserved Old Town packed with cultural treasures
and revels in its status as a hedonistic nightlife destination.
Long before the arrival of the German While still trying to come to terms with the
crusaders in 1201, local Latvian tribes had social, economic and political legacies of
established trading links with merchants the 20th century, the country entered the
as far afield as Byzantium, while Orthodox 21st century with confidence. The historic
Christianity had made inroads from the cores of Rīga and other major cities have
East. Yet, it was the crusaders who were been restored, while the rural areas are
responsible for ushering in eight centuries being developed for ecotourism.
of foreign domination. A short period
of self-determination in the early People
20th century ended with occupation first The most obvious ethnic divide is
by Nazi Germany and then by Soviet between the country’s Latvian and
Russia. The Soviet era brought rapid Russian communities, who make up
industrialization, while the restoration of 60 and 30 per cent respectively of the
independence in 1991 further hastened country’s population of 2 million.
the pace of the country’s modernization. Although Russians form the majority in
Nonetheless, a distinctively Latvian culture Latvia’s major cities, a significant pro-
developed and survived, assimilating portion of them are not citizens, as they
foreign influences and substantial regional have not taken the mandatory language
differences. A connection with nature, and citizenship tests. They cannot vote
reflecting centuries of rural toil, has in national elections, nor are they allowed
remained intact at the same time. to travel and work freely in the EU.
A splendid view of the countryside in Sigulda, Gauja National Park

One of the many cobbled lanes in Rīga’s Old Town
134  I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
Traditional Latvian folk dancers performing at the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, near Rīga
Minority groups include Lithuanians, Latvians have never taken strongly

Poles, Belarusians and Ukranians. Most to organized religion and today only
of Latvia’s Jews were executed or fled around a third of the population identify
during World War II, although some of themselves as Christians, mostly
the survivors returned and small Evangelical Lutheran.
communities exist today.
Politics and Economy
Society and Culture Since the restoration of independence,
Latvians are, by and large, socially Latvia has seen the birth of dozens of
conservative, and although employment political parties that have formed a
levels are equal for women and men, the succession of short-lived centre-right
latter are usually better paid. Women coalition governments. The end of
play a prominent role in public life, Communist rule has not meant the end
including making a mark on Latvian of widespread corruption, with a small
politics, but the female domain is still number of powerful oligarchs using
often considered to be the home. political influence to promote vested
The strict social hierarchy imposed financial interests. All this has bred a
by the Baltic Germans ensured the
survival and adaptation of many
folk traditions. Echoes of Latvia’s
pagan past remain to this day,
most obviously in the passionate
celebration of Midsummer, and
even city-dwellers profess a
connection with nature.
This is also reflected in the
popularity of flowers as gifts,
although it is important to give
bunches with an odd number
of stems, as even numbers are
associated with funerals. Latvian president at the anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Latvia
A P O R T R A I T O F L AT V I A  135
general sense of scepticism

towards the political system.
The Soviet authorities took
a primarily agricultural
economy and transformed it
to one based largely around
heavy industry, with an
associated influx of Russian
workers into the cities. The
collapse of the Soviet planned
economy between 1989 and
1992 meant a sudden loss of
markets for Latvia’s goods,
and the country was plunged
into further crisis when four Ships docked at Liepāja harbour, a former Soviet naval base
newly privatized banks
crashed in 1995. From then tourist map. The area around the Old
until the economic crisis of 2008, priva Town is transforming to accommodate
tization, economic reform and low wages the growing number of visitors. The city
fostered rapid growth. Most raw materials is striving to recover its prized epithet of
are imported, with the exception of “Paris of the North”, which it once shared
timber, but industry has succeeded in with several other European cities.
attracting foreign investment. Exports However, the most fertile area for
include pharmaceuticals, timber, textiles, growth probably lies outside of the
electrical and electronic goods, ships, dairy urban areas, where the forests, rivers
products, beef and grains. Latvia has and lakes seem serenely untouched.
capitalized on its status as an East–West Even though the infrastructure is still
trade hub, while bettering its reputation developing, tourism offers genuine
as one of the best countries in central opportunities for reviving rural
Europe for the ease of doing business. economies, with some farmsteads
Although money has been flooding already embracing the possibilities
into the country, for the average person, of ecotourism.
the improvement in living
conditions has been slow.
A lack of employment
opportunities has
precipitated migration
from rural areas, either to
Latvian cities or to other
EU countries.
Tourism
One very evident change
in recent years has been
the rapid growth in
tourism. While much
of the country remains
underexplored by foreign
visitors, Rīga has firmly
established itself on the A group of rafters in the forested Kurzeme region
LATVIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
With the pagan past never entirely erased concentrated in Rīga, although other cities,
by the German crusaders, the Latvian particularly Liepāja, have their share, and
calendar is punctuated by celebrations many smaller towns celebrate folk festivals.
which mark the rhythm of passing seasons. The best time to visit is from May to mid-
Many folk traditions are incorporated into September. Rīga, however, gets plenty of
Christian festivals, and they provide a tourists throughout the year due to its
chance to experience traditional activities. vibrant cultural life and it can look very
International cultural events are attractive on a clear winter’s day.
Art Days and Museum Nights.

Spring At this lively festival, artists display
The rain and mud of early their work in streets and squares
spring can dampen the spirits. across the country. Concerts and
However, by April the country theatre performances are held,
side comes alive with dance and many museums stay open
and music. into the night.
March
Piano Stars (Mar–Apr), Liepāja. Summer
This festival was established in The summer months are the
1993 and attracts pianists from best time to visit, not only
around the world. because the weather is at its
most enjoyable, but because it
April is festival season.
International Baltic Ballet Knights fighting in the Baltic
Festival (Apr–May). The festival, June Medieval Festival
which features styles of dance Rīga Opera Festival (mid-Jun),
ranging from classical to avant Rīga. An international festival Midsummer (23–24 Jun).
garde, is held in Rīga as well as marking the end of the Latvian On Herb Day (Līgo), houses
other towns. National Opera season, with an and barns are decorated with
over view of the previous year. branches, flowers and leaves.
May Arts and Crafts Fair (first In the evening, songs are
Livonian Festival (late May), weekend), Rīga. This event has sung around fires which
Cēsis. Highlights include been in existence since 1971, remain lit until the dawn
medieval music, food, crafts with music, theatre, dance and of St John’s Day (Jāņi).
workshops and battle traditional crafts demonstrations
reenactments held in the at the Ethnographic OpenAir July
town’s Livonian Order castle. Museum (see p163). Sea Festival (second weekend).
Fishermen are honoured
along with the God of the Sea
in this nationwide festival.
Latvian Song and Dance
Festival, Rīga. This amateur
choral festival is the largest of
its kind in the world. It is held
every five years and is next
scheduled for 2018.
Folklore Baltica Festival, Rīga.
The three Baltic capitals host
the event in turns.
Rīgas Ritmi (first week), Rīga.
Jazz and world music artists
perform at this music festival.
Summer Sound, Liepāja.
This festival confirms the city’s
claim to be the home of
Performers at the Rīga Opera Festival Latvian rock music.
L AT V I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R  137
September Old Town Christmas Market

Railway Festival (first Sat), (Dec–early Jan), Rīga. Popular
Gulbene–Alūksne Narrow- with tourists and local people,
Gauge Railway (see p203). Events this festive market has a number
are held at various stops along of stalls selling handicrafts and
this 33-km (21-mile) railway line, warming winter treats, such as
with a restored steam engine as mulled wine.
the star attraction.
January
October Silver Bells International
New Music Festival Arēna Sacred Music Festival
(Oct–Nov), Rīga. A month- (mid-Jan), Daugavpils. A
long showcase for contem- competition with perform-
porary compositions. ances from a range of choirs,
Dancers in a street performance during ensembles and soloists.
Rīga City Festival November
Mārtiņdiena (10 Nov). This
Positivus, Mazsalaca. Latvia’s marks the beginning of
biggest pop and rock festival is winter. Events take place at
held next to the Baltic Sea and Rīga’s Ethnographic Open-Air
attracts international artists. Museum (see p163).
Lāčplēšis Day (11 Nov). A
August number of events are held on
Assumption of the Blessed this day in honour of Latvian
Virgin Mary (15 Aug), Aglona. freedom fighters.
Thousands of pilgrims visit
Latvia’s most important Catholic
place of worship. Winter
Rīga City Festival (mid-Aug). Short days and poor weather
First held in 2001 for the 800th can make travelling in winter a
anniversary of Riga’s founding, challenging proposition, but on
the festival includes concerts, a clear day Latvia’s snow-bound
street theatre and dance. landscape can be beautiful.
December Exhibit at the International Ice Sculpture

Autumn Christmas (25–26 Dec). Festival, Jelgava
Autumnal colours can make Yule logs are dragged from
this season a pleasant time to house to house, collecting February
see the countryside, but the misfortunes of the International Ice Sculpture
temperatures fall rapidly from previous year before being Festival (early Feb), Jelgava.
mid-September. ceremonially burned. One of the largest festivals of
its kind in the world. After the
event, the sculptures remain
on display until they melt in
the sun.
Public Holidays
Good Friday (March/April)
Easter Sunday and Monday
(March/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Restoration of the
Independence of the
Republic of Latvia (4 May)
Mother’s Day (second
Sunday in May)
Midsummer (23–24 June)
Proclamation of the
Republic of Latvia (18 Nov)
Visitors enjoying the beautiful city of Rīga in autumn
THE HISTORY OF LATVIA

Latvia’s history is traditionally considered to have begun with the advent of the
Teutonic Knights in 1201, which started German dominance of the area for three
centuries. From the mid-16th to the early 18th century, Latvia was divided between
Poland and Sweden. By 1795, all of Latvia had been absorbed into Russia. Final
independence from foreign domination was only achieved in 1991.
Latvia’s strategic geographical position, The Germans and the Swedes

which prompted its more powerful The power of the Germans quickly
neighbours to gain control over the extended across all of Latvia. Castles
region, largely decided the course of were built in Cēsis (1209), Kuldīga
its history. By the late 12th century, (1242) and Valmiera (1283) to prevent
Latvia’s trade route up the Daugava any local resistance. Meanwhile,
river was increasingly visited by Rīga, Cēsis and Ventspils began to
merchants from Western Europe. thrive as members of the Hanseatic
The Teutonic Knights, German League (see p36). The beneficiaries of
warrior-monks who first arrived in Teutonic Knight in this growth were the Germans, who
1200, were looking for conquests as battle gear also owned large manors in the
well as new converts in a pagan countryside. The Latvians, on the
land. In 1201, they founded Rīga, other hand, were dispossessed and forced
which grew into an important centre for to become serfs.
trade between the Baltic region and The early 16th century saw the
Western Europe. population lending zealous support to
the Reformation movement, and soon
after, Protestantism was declared as the
state religion. In 1561, during the Livonian
Wars (see p37), Poland conquered Latvia
and Catholicism was firmly established.
The separate Duchy of Courland, owing
allegiance to Poland, was created in the
south and west.
The clash between the Protestant
Swedes and Catholic Poles in the late
16th century resulted in Swedish rule in
northern Latvia for much of the 17th
King Gustav Adolphus landing near the Baltic coast in 1630 century. The Swedes were responsible for
1201 Rīga founded 1282 Rīga 1561 Latvia occupied

by Bishop Albert joins the by Poland
of Bremen Hanseatic
Stone coat of arms of the 1558 Livonian
League Wars begin
Hanseatic League
1200 1300 1400 1500
1211 Building of Rīga 1536 First

Cathedral begins 1372 German record of
replaces Latin as 1520 First Lutheran Jewish
official language service held merchants
in Rīga
Rīga Cathedral
T H E H I S TO R Y O F L AT V I A  139
spreading education in the Latvian German control of many businesses

language throughout the country. and farms. The 1905 uprisings in
Under Gustav Adolphus (r.1611–32), Russia found a sympathetic echo in
Sweden consolidated its hold Rīga and across the Latvian country
over Livonia, which was then side, where over 100 manor houses
under Polish rule. Around the Jakob Kettler, Duke of were burned down.
same period, the Duchy of Courland
Courland flourished under Jakob The Fight for Freedom
Kettler (r.1642–81), who built a powerful navy When World War I broke out in 1914, Latvia
at Ventspils and also founded Latvia’s only became the main battleground between
colonies, on the Caribbean island of Tobago Germany and Russia, neither ever seizing its
and on the Gambia river in West Africa. entire territory. Latvia’s national aspirations
took a blow as many Latvians were forced
The Russian Empire to join the Russian army. The Latvians, who
In 1710, during the Great Northern War were permitted to form their own army in
(see p37), the Swedes surrendered Rīga to 1915, put up a spirited fight against the
Peter the Great of Russia. The Russians Germans at the Battle of Christmas, which
introduced 200 years of stability. Serfdom began on 23 December 1916. However, the
was abolished in 1819, which enabled Latvians were ultimately defeated and the
farmhands to migrate to the towns as Germans captured Rīga. The Allied victory in
industrialization and the railways created a 1918 forced the German troops to withdraw.
wide range of new employment. Power Within a few days, on 18 November, Latvian
and money would, however, stay firmly in independence was declared.
German and Russian hands.
German merchants still
enjoyed the privileges that
they had secured from the
Swedish rulers.
Towards the end of the
19th century, the Russians
attempted to replace
German with Russian as the
national language. This
infuriated the Latvian intelli
gentsia, who saw it as a sign
of oppression. They began
organizing political move
ments hostile to the Tsarist
regime and continuing A 19th-century oil painting of ships at a Latvian port
1621 Rīga seized by King King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden (1594–1632) 1905 Socialist rev
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden olution demands
1822 First independence
1680 Rīga’s first 1873 First
Latvian
newspaper, in Latvian Song
newspaper 1917 Russian
German, started Festival held
printed Revolution
1600 1700 1800 1900
1689 Bible 1710 Rīga 1850s National 1918 Formal
translated into conquered 1817 Serfdom Awakening 1914 German declaration of
Latvian by Peter outlawed Movement occupation of Latvian
1629 Sweden the Great in Kurzeme formed Latvia begins independence
colonizes Latvia
The First Independence Latvia a part of the USSR. Anyone who had
Latvia’s newly formed government was played a significant role in “bourgeois”
forced to flee to Liepāja in January 1919, Latvia was either executed or deported to
returning to Rīga in July, when the city had Siberia. The German invasion followed a
been freed of Bolshevik troops. year later, in June 1941, and most
Throughout that year, many forces of Latvia was occupied within
were ranged against Latvian inde 10 days. The Nazi regime was as
pendence and against each other, brutal, but with different targets.
including the Germans, Poles and Most of its victims were from the
Russians. Latvia was only assured of its Jewish community, which had
independence when it signed a peace grown considerably after the
treaty with Russia on 11 August 1920. laws which restricted Jewish
Despite the constantly changing residence were lifted in 1840.
governments that ruled until 1934, President Kārlis Ulmanis
much was achieved during this (1877–1942) The Return of the Russians
period of independence. Trade was The Soviets returned to Eastern
redirected westwards and away from Russia, Latvia and Rīga as “liberators” in autumn
the Latvian language had a resurgence and 1944, though the Germans held out until
Rīga came to be regarded as the Baltic May 1945 in the country’s west. This
region’s capital. The leading political figure enabled nearly 100,000 Latvians to escape
throughout this period was Kārlis Ulmanis to Germany and Sweden, from where many
(1877–1942), who staged a coup in 1934 and continued on to Britain, Canada and
abolished parliament. He proclaimed himself Australia. In March 1949, the Russians
president, taking Mussolini as his role model. carried out more deportations; this time
Progress came to a grinding halt with the their victims were mostly farmers unwilling
Soviet invasion on 17 June 1940, making to join the new collectives. As Latvians
were forcibly removed from their own
country, Russians were happy to take their
place, and their numbers grew throughout
the Soviet era. By 1990, half the population
of the country was Russianspeaking and
there was a serious threat that Latvian would
disappear as the national language. The
first public protest took place in 1987, when
a crowd gathered around the Freedom
Monument in Rīga, to commemorate the
1941 deportations to Siberia. New political
groups began to emerge a year later. The
Soldiers marching through Rīga in 1940 most forceful of them, the Popular Front of
1919 Bolshevik 1934 Coup 1939 Russia and Germany sign 1956 Athlete Inese
government in establishes the RibbentropMolotov Pact Jaunzeme becomes the
power in Rīga for Kārlis Ulmanis first Latvian to win
1940 First Soviet
six months as president Olympic gold
occupation
1925 1935 1945 1955 1965
1935 The Freedom

1920 Russia Monument erected 1945 Reoccupation
recognizes Latvia’s in Rīga by Soviet Union
independence
Freedom Monument, Rīga 1941 Occupation by Nazi Germany
T H E H I S TO R Y O F L AT V I A  141
Gorbachev, but it collapsed within two

days and Latvia suddenly found itself free.
Latvia was led during the first eight years
of independence by Guntis Ulmanis
(b.1939). Governments came and went
as they had done in the 1920s, but they
largely agreed on a slower policy of
privatization than the Estonians were
practising. The poor salaries being paid in
the public sector continued the low-level
corruption prevalent in the Soviet era and
introduced it at higher levels too.
The beginning of the 21st century saw
PLF supporters campaigning during the 1990 elections the effective integration of Latvia into
Western Europe, particularly with its joining
Latvia (PLF), demanded full independence the European Union in 2004, and
and won the elections in 1990. subsequent adoption of its shared currency,
the euro. Nonetheless, Latvia has still
Independence at Last managed to maintain its trading links with
The violence that broke out in January 1991 Russia. The status of Latvia’s population
showed the determination of the Latvians who speak Russian as their first language is
for independence. Eight people were killed a problem likely to trouble its post-
in clashes with Soviet forces in Rīga. In independence governments. However,
August, Moscow’s conservative Communists sensitive handling of this issue can ensure
staged a coup against President Mikhail the country’s long-term security.
Jews in Latvia
In the early 19th century, Jews in the Russian Empire were
barred from the academic world, government and the
army officer corps. Anti-Semitism worsened under
Tsar Alexander III (1881–94). Between the two world wars,
President Ulmanis firmly suppressed the activities of fringe
groups that wanted to promote anti-Semitism. As part of
its Latvian invasion in June 1941, Nazi Germany put its
extermination policies into practice at once. The genocide
was carried out in two phases that year. By 1945, only
about 1,000 Jews, from a pre-war population of 95,000, had
survived. Jewish institutions were re-established in 1988, at
the end of the Soviet era. A proper evaluation of Jewish
history in all eras could only be carried out after Pro-German Latvian militia standing guard over
independence in 1991. captured Jews in Liepāja in 1941
President Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga (b.1937) 2007 Valdis Zatlers sworn in as president
1999 Vaira Vīķe- 2009 A riot in Rīga leads to the

1991 Latvian Freiberga becomes
independence dismissal of the government, as
Latvia’s first economic crisis hits Latvia
re-established woman president
1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1970 Latvia’s Jewish 2004

population grows to 1990 PLF wins elections Latvia 2006 Latvia
50,000, most of 2001 Rīga joins hosts the 70th
whom live in Rīga 1993 A democratic celebrates its NATO IIHF Ice Hockey 2014 Latvia
constitution adopted 800th anniversary and EU Championships adopts the euro
L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N  143
RĪGA
With its long history as a mercantile centre, Rīga is the largest
and most cosmopolitan city in the Baltic States. This is reflected
in the buildings that line its streets and squares. The Old Town
boasts an engaging array of medieval warehouses and Dutch
Renaissance apartments. Remarkable Art Nouveau buildings,
which secured the city UNESCO World Heritage Site status, can
also be found.
When German crusader Bishop Albert Blackheads, have been rebuilt or

von Buxhoevden chose Rīga as a restored. The “liberation” of Rīga by
strategic location for his fortress in 1201, the Red Army in 1944 ushered in almost
the area was already inhabited by tribes five decades of Communist rule, and
who traded with Russian and there are still more ethnic Russians than
Scandinavian merchants. The German Latvians in Rīga; relations between the
settlement became the headquarters two communities are cordial but
for the subjugation of the region and rarely warm.
prospered as a member of the Since Latvia regained independence
Hanseatic League of trading cities. in 1991, Rīga has flourished, becoming
Ruled by Sweden from 1621 to 1710, a vibrant tourist destination with an
Rīga experienced a 19th-century impressive range of museums and a
heyday under the Russians. New spirited nightlife. Change has been rapid
suburbs were built for incoming and not always smooth, with the arrival
workers, the harbour was expanded, a of low-cost airlines in particular bringing
ring of boulevards was created in place its own challenges. Fashionable new bars
of the old fortifications, and in the and restaurants cater to growing crowds
20th century, industries such as auto- of visitors, and new glass and steel
mobile construction were developed. buildings have sprung up alongside
The capital of an independent Latvia the cobbled streets and church spires
between the world wars, Rīga suffered of the medieval Old Town. This is not a
heavily during both conflicts and many picture-perfect city stuck in time, but
of its oldest buildings were devastated. a lively metropolis intent on shedding
Several, including the striking House of the trappings of Soviet rule.
Outdoor café on Cathedral Square (Doma laukums)

Figure at the top of the Freedom Monument, affectionately referred to as “Milda”
Exploring Rīga
For many centuries Rīga was largely contained within the city walls on LA
IE
the right bank of the Daugava river. Now known as the Old Town, this EK
U
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area contains most of the city’s sites of interest. The main route through R
ĒL
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LA
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the tangle of picturesque streets and squares is Kaļķu Street, leading
from the Stone Bridge (Akmens tilts) to Brīvības Street and the E L IZ A
BETE
S
Freedom Monument. When the city walls were removed in the IE L A
mid-19th century, the space was developed into a ring of
KA
boulevards and parks. The main train and bus stations lie on IE
LA
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KRONVALDA A
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the southeastern edge of this ring. To the north is the late PARK
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19th- and early 20th-century extension of the city known A
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as the Quiet Centre, which includes some of Riga’s most
ĀR
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impressive Art Nouveau architecture. J
AL IELA
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Sights at a Glance ĀR
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Churches and Cathedrals u House of Blackheads VA
1 Dome Cathedral o Latvian Riflemen Monument ŅA

JĀ R
4 St Saviour’s Church p Mentzendorff House IŠ A
KR IŅ
8 St Jacob’s Cathedral h Bastejkalns A
a St Peter’s Church j Freedom Monument
f St John’s Church
A
l Orthodox Cathedral IEL Pi
BA
BASTEJKALNS
RA ls
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DEM Canals
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Museums and Galleries VA L U

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2 Museum of the Barricades ŠJĀ
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of 1991 TO R Ņ A
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3 Museum of Rīga’s
TORŅA IE
BA
LA
History and Navigation PILS

LAUKUMS
IELA
7 Art Museum Rīga Bourse

V
A
ĻŅ
0 Arsenal Museum of Art IE

LA
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PILS IELA U M SM
LA
e Powder Tower/Latvian War IL Š

11
IL ŠU
E PIL SM IELA
G ĀT S IE
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Museum PO
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i Museum of the Occupation

LA
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DOMA
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LAUKUMS
BR
of Latvia IE
K
LA
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KR
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and Design A
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d Porcelain Museum KR JU
AL
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g Photography Museum
UN
LA
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ST
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k Krišjānis Barons Memorial
A
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Da
LA
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Museum LA
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z Latvian National Museum LAUKUMS

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of Art
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x Museum of Jews in Latvia

11
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c Pauls Stradiņš Museum of
O
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the History of Medicine

B
LA
R
ŪD
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A
TS
LA
K
EN
v Art Nouveau Museum U

R
L LD
IE
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PE
ST
AD
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M
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EN
A
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Buildings and Monuments K

M Ā
RS
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5 Rīga Castle S I
ELA
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TER
6 Three Brothers
S
IN
M
9 Parliament
q Swedish Gate
w St Jacob’s Barracks
r Cats’ House
0 metres 200
t Great Guild
y Small Guild 0 yards 200
RĪGA  145
Key
Place of interest
Railway
D
ZI Pedestrian Street
RN
A
V
U
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LA
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Z
IR
N Town Hall Square, Rīga
A
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Getting Around
S
LA
LA
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O
SK
A IZ
IE
L A The Old Town is compact and best explored on
LA
BE
IE
TE foot: cars are only allowed on a few streets, and

S
A
S
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there is no public transport. The main Art

ZN
IE
BA
ESPLANĀDE LA Nouveau district is within walking distance

of the Old Town, while a network of
KA trams, trolleybuses and buses provides
DZ
LP access to further-flung attractions.

IR
A
KA
Taxis are also abundant outside the
S
NA
RI
Ā
BU Old Town. The two tourist

VU
LV
LV
BU
Ā
RI information offices can offer
IE
S
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advice on guided tours.

S
B
LA
A
U
IZ
ĪB
LV
AB
ĪV
IELA
Ā TĒRBA
TA S
BR
R
ET
IS
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VĒRMANES
M
PARK
ER
ĶE
ĻA
RA
IE
LA
IŅ
Ā AS
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LV Ī B
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A
BU RĪV
B
BU
LA
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SP
IE
ĀR
A
A
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N
JA
IS
RO LA
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VA
BA IE
ĻŅ
B
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LV
S
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JA
LA
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AUDĒJU
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13
Rīga’s Old Town next to the Daugava river

is video footage shot around

the barricades, showing people
installing huge blocks of
concrete to defend strategic
points, including the Interior
Ministry and TV Tower. Scenes
shot at night are punctuated
by gunfire and shouting.
A final room is dedicated to
the people who were killed
in Bastejkalns (see p154).
3 Museum of Rīga’s
History and
Impressive Cross-Vaulted Gallery of the Dome, Dome Cathedral Navigation
Rīgas vēstures un kuğniecības muzejs
1 Dome Cathedral 19th-century stained glass. The
Palasta iela 4. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721
Doma baznīca woodwork of the 17th-century
1358. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm
pulpit is ornate, however, as is
Doma laukums 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
the organ case, which is & 8 ∑ rigamuz.lv
7573. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily Mannerist with Baroque and
(to 5pm Wed & Fri); Oct–Apr: 10am–
Rococo additions. It is possible Founded in 1773, this museum
5pm daily. Closed for special events.
to visit the Cross-Vaulted is the oldest in Rīga. Housed in
& 5 8am Mon–Sat; noon Sun.
∑ doms.lv
Gallery of the Dome, a an impressive building with
Romanesque cloister and tiled stoves and stained-glass
Founded as St Mary’s in 1211 by courtyard, all year round. windows, it is also one of the
Bishop Albert von Buxhoevden, city’s most interesting and
the cathedral became one of varied museums. The exhibition
the city’s three seats of power 2 Museum of the on navigation stresses the
alongside the Town Hall and the Barricades of 1991 strong maritime history of the
castle. It gained its current 1991 Gada barikāžu muzejs city up until World War I, and
name from the German word includes several large model
Dom, meaning “cathedral”, dur- Krāmu iela 3. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721 3525. ships and material on Krišjānis
ing the Reformation. The cathe- Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. Valdemārs (see p195). Other
& donations. 8 ∑ barikades.lv
dral looks as if it has sunk, but in rooms cover everything from
fact the land around it has been prehistory to independence.
raised to keep out floodwater This museum recalls the pivotal Highlights from the Middle
from the Daugava river. days of January 1991 when the Ages include the Madonna on a
The largest place of worship people of Rīga took to the Crescent Moon, a sculpture of the
in the Baltic region, the streets, following the threat patroness of the Great Guild
cathedral has been altered over of direct presidential rule from dating from the late 15th
the years and its bulky structure Moscow and the stationing of century, which was taken to
exhibits a variety of styles. The Soviet tanks outside the Germany during World War II,
altar alcove and the east wing Supreme Council in Vilnius. The and Big Kristaps, a large 16th-
crossing are Romanesque, with most fascinating of the exhibits century statue of St Christopher.
a cross-vaulted ceiling and rows
of semi-circular windows.
Simpler Neo-Gothic additions
are characterized by pointed
arches, large windows and
lierne vaulting, while the
eastern pediment and the
steeple are in an 18th-century
Baroque style. The portal was
added in the 19th century,
followed by an Art Nouveau
vestibule in the 20th century.
Most of the interior decor
was destroyed during the
Reformation, and it is now very
plain except for the tombs
of merchants and the Interior of the Museum of the Barricades of 1991
RĪGA  147
4 St Saviour’s 6 Three Brothers collection of 16th–20th-century

Church Trīs brāļi European paintings and
19th- century paintings from
Anglikāņu baznīca 17–21 Mazā pils iela. Map 1 C3.
China and Japan. There is also a
Anglikāņu iela 2a. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 Museum of Architecture: Tel 6722
collection of porcelain and glass,
2259. 5 11am every Sun. Free 0779. Open 9am–6pm Mon,
9am–5pm Tue–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri.
which features pieces from the
lunchtime concerts are held at 1pm Danish Royal Porcelain Factory.
& donations. ∑ archmuseum.lv
every Wed. ∑ anglicanriga.lv
This row of buildings on Mazā
Funded by British merchants, pils Street known as the Three
this small Neo-Gothic church, Brothers covers three distinct
built in 1857, is the only architectural styles. Number 17,
Anglican place of worship in the with a stepped gable and
city. The English bricks were Gothic niches, dates from the
brought as ballast on trading 15th century and is Rīga’s oldest
ships, and the church was even residential building made out of
built on a layer of British soil. stone. The ears of wheat on the
During the Soviet era it was stones beside the door indicate
used by students as a disco and that it was owned by a baker.
recording studio, but since the The wooden interior of the
second independence in 1991 it 17th- century building at num-
has been reopened for worship, ber 19 now houses the small
and the congregation includes Museum of Architecture. The Entrance of St Jacob’s Cathedral, the seat of
English-speaking expatriates. green building at number 21 Rīga’s Catholic archbishop
was built in the 18th century.
8 St Jacob’s
Rīga Castle
Art Museum Rīga Cathedral
5
7
Rīgas pils Sv Jēkaba katedrāle
Bourse
Pils laukums 3. Map 1 C3. Klostera iela 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6732
History Museum of Latvia: Tel 6722
Mākslas muzejs Rīgas Birža
6419. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm;
1357. Open check website for details. Doma laukums 6. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 Oct–Apr: 9am–6pm. 5 8am.
& 8 ∑ history-museum.lv 3434. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to Sited outside the old city walls,
8pm Fri). ∑ rigasbirza.lv
St Jacob’s was built in 1225 to
The city’s original Livonian This impressive building, built in serve the surrounding villages.
Order castle was destroyed the ornate Venetian Renaissance The church was renowned for
by Rīga’s citizens during a war style in 1856, was once one of having its bell not in the Gothic
against the Order lasting from the city’s most elegant edifices. steeple but hanging from a
1297 to 1330. After losing, the However, years of neglect and a cupola, which is still visible on
townspeople were forced to fire in 1979 destroyed much of its the southern side although the
build a new castle on the beauty. After three years of bell has gone. It was rung to
present site just outside the city. renovation, it opened its doors in signal that an execution was
Continuing quarrels led the 2011 as the home of the new Art taking place in the city,
Master of the Order to leave Museum Rīga Bourse, which has although another story insists
the capital, but Rīga Castle was taken over the collection of the that it was heard when unfaithful
destroyed by the citizens once Foreign Art Museum once women passed by the church.
more in 1484. Again they were housed in Rīga Castle. The Today, the cathedral is the seat
defeated and the next castle the museum has an extensive of Rīga’s Catholic archbishop.
townspeople were compelled
to build forms the core of the
current structure and was the
headquarters of the Livonian
Order until 1561.
As well as being the official
residence of Latvia’s president,
the building houses the History
Museum of Latvia, which is
currently closed. The castle was
damaged during a fire in 2013;
The first phase of reconstruction,
covering the president’s quarters
finished in 2016. A second phase,
covering the museum, will not
be fully completed until 2024. Changing of the guard outside Rīga Castle
9 Parliament
Saeima
Jēkaba 11. Map 1 C3. ∑ saeima.lv
This rather anonymous

building, constructed from
1863 to 1867 with Florentine
Renaissance features, and
renovated several times since,
was originally used for meet-
ings of the local landed gentry.
From 1919 to 1934, as today,
it served as the seat of Latvia’s Imposing façade of Latvia’s Parliament
Parliament, while during World
War II it was the headquarters customs house between 1828 but pleasant, Aldaru Street.
of Friedrich Jeckeln – the SS and 1832 in the style of Russian Newly married couples include
officer who oversaw the killing Classicism. The name “Arsenal” the gate on their tour of the city,
of Latvia’s Jews, Roma and comes from a previous building as passing through it is said to
other “undesirables”. Later it on the same spot, built by the bring good luck.
was used by the Supreme Swedes. The downstairs
Soviet of Latvia. Nearby stands exhibition space particularly
a monument that was built benefits from airy rooms and
to commemorate those who high ceilings.
died in the Barricades of 1991
(see p146).
q Swedish Gate
0 Arsenal Museum
Zviedru vārti
of Art Between Torņa iela & Aldaru iela.

Map 1 C3.
Mākslas muzejs Arsenāls
Torņa 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6735 7527. The sole remnant of eight city
Open noon–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri; gates, the Swedish Gate was
noon–8pm Thu; noon–5pm Sat & Sun. built in 1698 during a period of
& ∑ lnmm.lv
Swedish rule in Rīga. It runs
This is Rīga’s premier venue through the ground floor of the Swedish Gate, built through the ground
for shows of cutting-edge house at Torņa 11, and legend floor of an old house
art. There is no permanent has it that the gate was created
collection, but the temporary illegally by a wealthy merchant
exhibitions are generally of high to give him more direct access w St Jacob’s
quality. The emphasis is on to his warehouse. More likely, Barracks
art from the middle of the it was built for the use of the
20th century onwards, either soldiers stationed at St Jacob’s Jēkaba kazarmas
produced in Latvia or by Barracks. Today the gate Torņa iela. Map 2 D3.
Latvians living abroad. The provides access between the
imposing one-storey building popular strip of shops and bars Built in the 17th century to
on Jēkaba Square was built as a on Torņa Street and the quieter, house Swedish soldiers, this
yellow block is now home to
shops and restaurants. The
barracks also played a brief
role in the nation’s cultural
development, as the site of an
artists’ commune opened in
1917, although the building
retained its military purpose.
Many of the members went
on to join the influential Rīga
Artists’ Group of the 1920s and
30s. Opposite is the oldest
remaining stretch of the city
wall, dating from the 13th to
16th centuries but restored
Paintings and sculpture exhibited at the Arsenal Museum of Art during the Soviet era.
RĪGA  149
e Powder Tower/ t Great Guild

Latvian War Lielā Ģilde
Museum Amatu 6. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722 4850.
Pulvertornis/Latvijas kara muzejs
Smilšu 20. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722 8147. Established in the 13th century,
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; the Great Guild had a monopoly
Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. & on trade in Rīga for centuries.
donations. 8 ∑ karamuzejs.lv The building that served as the
guild’s headquarters was built
The cylindrical Powder Tower is from 1853 to 1860. An old guild
all that remains from a total of chamber displays symbols of
18 towers that were once part Hanseatic cities and the bridal
of the city’s defences. Its chamber was once used by
14th-century foundations are guild members’ children on
among the oldest in the city, Old issue of Lāčplēšis magazine at the their wedding nights. Today,
but the rest of the structure Latvian War Museum the building holds concerts by
dates from 1650, being rebuilt the Philharmonic Orchestra.
after it was destroyed by r Cats’ House
the Swedish army in 1621.
The 2.5-m (8-ft) thick walls
Kaķu māja y Small Guild
were intended to protect the Meistaru iela 10. Map 2 D3. Mazā Ģilde
gunpowder stored inside, Amatu iela 5. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722
after which the tower was This yellow Art Nouveau building 3772. Open for concerts and confer-
named. Nine Russian cannon- on the corner of Meistaru and ences only. ∑ gilde.lv/maza
balls remain embedded in Amatu streets is a popular image
the walls as proof of the of Rīga for its two feline statues While the Great Guild counted
tower’s strength. on its rooftop. The story goes that the city’s merchants as its mem-
The tower was bought by a before World War I a merchant bers, the less powerful
German student fraternity at who owned the building was Small Guild existed to
the end of the 19th century refused entry to the Great Guild promote the interests of
and in 1919 it housed a because he was Latvian and Rīga’s German arti-
military museum reflecting membership was sans. This guild
on the then-recent fight for reserved for may have been
independence as well as on Germans only. In less prestigious
World War I. The annexe retaliation, he put than its neigh-
building was constructed from two statues of bour, but with its
1937 to 1940, but the Soviet black cats – with turret and spire it is a
occupation meant that it did arched backs and tails Statue on the roof of more attractive
not fulfil its function until up – onto the roof, Cats’ House building. The Italian
several decades later. From positioning them so mosaic floor in the
1957 the tower housed the that their backsides faced the entrance hall is particularly
Museum of the Revolution in guildhall. After a lengthy court noteworthy. The current struc-
the Soviet Republic of Latvia. battle the merchant eventually ture was started between 1864
The current museum, the gained entry into the guild and and 1866, and then completed
Latvian War Museum, occupies turned the cats around. after an interval of 20 years.
both the tower and the
annexe. While the oldest
exhibit – part of a cannon
discovered during the 1930s –
dates from the 15th century,
the museum largely concen-
trates on 20th-century war fare.
World War I is covered with
interesting displays of
weapons, uniforms and
propaganda posters, as well
as items made by the Latvian
Riflemen (see p152). Other
rooms examine the role
of Latvians in the Russian
Revolution, the Latvian War of
Independence, World War II
and the Soviet occupation. Splendid exterior of the Small Guild
Street-by-Street: Around Town Hall Square

Until a local government reform in 1877, the Town Hall Square
was Rīga’s administrative centre. Built in 1334, the Town Hall
was one of three focuses of power alongside Dome Cathedral
and Rīga Castle, representing the interests of the city’s
residents. The square has functioned as a marketplace and
a site where festivials were held and executions carried out.
The impressive step-gabled House of Blackheads has been
completely rebuilt, while the Town Hall is a modern building
behind a Neo-Classical façade. Out of place at the square’s Locator Map
edge is a Soviet-era building housing the Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia.
Town Hall
Town Hall Square

Many of the square’s elaborate
buildings, destroyed by German
bombs during World War II, have
benefited from a restoration
project tied to the city’s 800th
anniversary in 2001.
LA
IE
Statue of Roland KU
IE
A legendary medieval figure and C IN
one of Charlemagne’s knights, Ē
GR
Roland became a symbol of
the independence of cities
from the local nobility.
i. Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

Covering the Soviet and Nazi occupations of the 20th century,
Key
the exhibitions of this museum are housed in the former
US Embassy while the building undergoes reconstruction. Suggested route
RĪGA  151
a . St Peter’s Church
This striking building has been destroyed and rebuilt several
times over since its original 13th-century incarnation.
Konventa Sēta
The winding Convent
Courtyard has been
renovated and is now home
to shops, galleries and the
Porcelain Museum (see p153).
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
S
K
Ā
R
Ņ
U
IE
L
A
St John’s
Church
LA
IE
ļU
A
ST
Jāņa Sēta
R
Ā
The courtyard of St John’s Church is

M
lined with tables and chairs in summer.
Photography Museum
Mentzendorff House
p Mentzendorff House
Dannenstern House This restored late
was the largest 17th-century building is
dwelling in home to a museum of
17th-century Rīga. the merchant class.
experienced by deportees. The

renovated building will include
a memorial to the victims of
Communist occupation. An
exhibition has been opened in the
former KGB Building at Brīvības 61.
o Latvian Riflemen
Monument
Strēlnieku piemineklis
Strēlnieku laukums. Map 1 C4. 7
Depicting three brooding Latvian

House of Blackheads, set behind Schwab House Riflemen, this controversial granite
sculpture has stood in the square
u House of until 2016, while renovation work bearing its name since 1970. The
was carried out at Rīga Castle Riflemen were a unit of the Russian
Blackheads (see p147). The city’s main tourist army, formed to defend their
Melngalvju nams information office can be found homeland against Germany in
Rātslaukums 7. Map 1 C4. Tel 6704
in Schwab House. 1915. Radicalized by the heavy
4300. n Schwab House. Open for losses they suffered during
events only. ∑ melngalvjunams.lv i Museum of
fierce fighting, they went on to
support Lenin during the 1917
Together with the adjoining the Occupation Revolution. Some of the Riflemen
Schwab House, the House of of Latvia later returned to Latvia, while
Blackheads is one of Rīga’s most Latvijas okupācijas muzejs others became Lenin’s most
impressive reconstruction trusted troops. Some local people
projects. It was originally built in Strēlnieku laukums 1. Map 1 C4. see the Riflemen as Latvian military
1334 for the city’s guilds, after Tel 6721 1030. Closed for renovations; heroes, while for others they recall
the Livonian Order seized the temporarily housed at Raina the repressive Soviet period.
bulvaris 7. & donations. 8 =
existing guild buildings. Over
∑ occupationmuseum.lv
time, the Blackheads, a guild of
unmarried foreign merchants, p Mentzendorff
became the sole occupants. This Soviet-era concrete structure House
Their name derives from their was built to house a museum Mencendorfa nams
patron, St Maurice (who was honouring the Latvian Riflemen,
often depicted as a Moor), and but since 1993 it has provided Grēcinieku 18. Map 2 D4. Tel 6721
they were known for their a sobering account of Latvians’ 2951. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm
riotous parties. suffering at the hands of Nazi daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
& 8 ∑ mencendorfanams.com
The building’s ground floor Germany in World War II and the
housed shops, while the guild- later Soviet occupation. The col-
hall was on the first floor. The lection includes photographs and Constructed in 1695 as the
step-gabled Dutch Renaissance eyewitness accounts of deporta- premises for a glass-cutter, this
façade was added in the late tions and political represssion. The tall building got its current
1500s, the astronomical clock replica of a Gulag barracks room name from a delicatessen based
in 1622, and the Hanseatic offers an insight into the hardship on the ground floor in the early
emblems and the four figures
(Neptune, Mercury, Unity and
Peace) in 1896. Schwab House
was built to complement its
neighbour in 1891.
The Blackheads disbanded
when the Baltic Germans were
asked by Hitler to return home
at the beginning of World War II.
Both buildings were devastated
by bombing in 1941 and the
Soviet authorities demolished
the remnants seven years later;
the current structures date from
1999. The building served as a
temporary presidential residence Beautifully restored wall paintings in a room of Mentzendorff House
RĪGA  153
20th century. Extensively

restored in the 1980s and 90s,
the building is now a museum
devoted to the life of Rīga’s
merchant class in the 17th and
18th centuries. Each room is
decorated in period style. One
highlight is the wall paintings,
influenced by the work of
French artist Antoine Watteau,
depicting the wealthy relaxing.
a St Peter’s Church
Pēterbaznīca
Skārņu 19. Map 2 D4. Tel 6718 1430. Vera Viduka’s 1977 textile at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7
except tower. & for tower
∑ peterbaznica.riga.lv
for Rīga’s original Livonian Order f St John’s Church
castle in 1208, and became a Jāņa baznīca
First mentioned in 1209, St Peter’s separate church after the castle
Church was, unlike other was destroyed in 1297. After Jāņa 7. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 4028.
churches, largely built by the Livs the Reformation it was used as Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
5 6:30pm Wed, 10am Sun.
(see p176) and not by foreigners. a warehouse, and traces of
None of the original wooden sacred and profane uses have Built as the cloister chapel for a
church remains, but parts of the been retained in the building. Dominican Order monastery in
walls date from the 1200s. The The museum gives an over- 1234, St John’s was devastated
semi-circular apse and its five view of decorative arts from by 15th-century fighting
chapels were built in the 15th the 1890s to the present day. between the Livonian Order
century, while the three Baroque Temporary exhibitions are and the city. Only the main
dolomite entrance portals shown on the ground floor, door and porch remain, with
were added in the late while the first floor, the rest rebuilt in Gothic style,
17th century. The covering the 1890s to including a web-vaulted red-
church, which had the 1960s, is the most brick nave with an apse, choir
become Lutheran in interesting part of and tower. In 1582, the Polish
1523, was damaged the main collection. king Stefan Bathory gave the
by fire in 1721, when Highlights include church to the Lutherans, and it
Peter the Great is said painted ceramics from was further expanded in the
to have headed the the Baltars studio and Mannerist style. The interior
failed efforts to rescue it. Lenin plate, carpet designs by includes a Baroque altar
The church’s steeple Porcelain Museum Jūlijs Madernieks. dating from 1769 and a
has been rebuilt several painting, Krustā sistais (The
times over. The current one was Crucified, 1912), by Janis
d Porcelain
built in 1973. Reaching a height Rozentāls in the sacristy.
of 123 m (403 ft), it provides Museum
excellent views across the city. Rīgas porcelāna muzejs
Kalēju 9/11. Map 2 D4. Tel 6701 2944.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
s Museum of ∑ porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv
Decorative Arts
and Design Situated in the Convent
Dekoratīvās mākslas un dizaina Courtyard, this museum reflects
muzejs the history of porcelain manu-
facturing in Latvia, which dates
Skārņu iela 10/20. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 back to the late 19th century.
2235. Open 11am–5pm Tue & Thu– The 6,000 exhibits include a
Sun; 11am–7pm Wed. & 8 = wide range of dinner services,
∑ lnmm.lv
as well as a huge red-and-gold
vase made to celebrate the
This museum is housed in the city’s 700th anniversary in 1901.
former St George’s Church, Rīga’s Of historic importance is a
oldest surviving stone building. display of vases and statues Impressive ceiling and nave of
It was constructed as the chapel portraying Soviet leaders. St John’s Church
fatherland – as well as Latvian

heroes including Lāčplēšis. It
also bears the motto “Tēvzemei
un brīvībai” (For Fatherland and
Freedom). The slender granite
column is topped by a female
figure, commonly known as
Milda, holding aloft three
golden stars, which represent
the three cultural regions of
Latvia – Kurzeme, Vidzeme and
Latgale. During the Soviet era
the authorities banned people
from laying flowers at the
Boating on the city canal in Bastejkalns park base of the monument and
placed a statue of Lenin a short
g Photography h Bastejkalns distance away.
Museum Basteja bulvāris. Map 2 D3.
Latvijas fotogrāfijas muzejs
Situated next to the Freedom
Mārstaļu iela 8. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 Monument, this leafy park was
2713. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm set out in the mid-19th century
Wed & Fri–Sun, noon–7pm Thu; Oct– on the mound of a 17th-century
Apr: 11am–5pm Wed & Fri–Sun, bastion. It is a pleasant place to
noon–7pm Thu. & 8 relax, but it also contains a
∑ fotomuzejs.lv
reminder that the path to Latvia’s
independence was not without
This museum traces the develop- bloodshed. On the night of
ment of photography in Latvia 20 January 1991, OMON troops –
from 1839 to 1941 through also known as the Black Berets –
displays of photographs and tried to storm barricaded
camera equipment. The images government buildings. Two
also serve to illustrate life in filmmakers (Gvido Zvaigzne
Latvia, depicting events such as and Andris Slapiņš), two militia-
the 1905 Revolution (see p139) men (Sergejs Konoņenko and
and scenes of daily life during the Vladimirs Gomanovics) and a
first period of independence. In schoolboy (Edijs Riekstiņš) were
one room, an early 20th- century killed in the ensuing gunfire in
photographic studio has been Bastejkalns. Local people regu-
re-created and in another there is larly renew the flowers on the
a display dedicated to the Minox, memorial stones which bear The imposing Freedom Monument,
or “spy” camera, invented by Rīga- their names, located close to a designed by Kārlis Zāle
born Walter Zapp (1905–2003). small bridge.
More unusual items include
stereoscopic images and viewers k Krišjānis Barons
and there is also a gallery that jFreedom Memorial Museum
holds temporary exhibitions. Monument Krišjāņa Barona memoriālais muzejs
Brīvības piemineklis Kr Barona iela 3. Map 2 E3. Tel 6728
Brīvības bulvāris. Map 2 D3. 7 4265. Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
8 = ∑ baronamuzejs.lv
Built in 1935 on a site previously

occupied by a statue of Peter Located in an apartment
the Great, the 42-m (138-ft) tall where the famous folklorist
Freedom Monument is a potent spent the last years of his life,
symbol of Latvian independence. this museum displays photo-
It was designed by the sculptor graphs and documents
Kārlis Zāle, also responsible for relating to Barons’s life and
the ensemble at the Brothers’ work. The most important
Cemetery (see p161). The granite exhibit is the Dainu skapis
base is decorated with reliefs (Cabinet of Latvian Folk Songs),
and statues representing four a specially designed chest of
Large plate camera, exhibited at the virtues – work, spiritual life, drawers in which Barons
Photography Museum family and protection of the organized the texts of over
RĪGA  155
There are, unsurprisingly,

Krišjānis Barons many paintings by Latvia’s best-
In a nation where singing is one known artist Janis Rozentāls (see
of the most important forms of p26) and his works on display
cultural expression, Krišjānis include Leaving the Cemetery
Barons (1835–1923) is perceived (1895), and Portrait of Malvīne
as a hero. Influenced by Krišjānis Vīgnere-Grinberga (1916). Other
Valdemārs (see p195) and part
Latvian artists represented
of the group of nationalist
intellectuals known as the Young
include Jēkabs Kazaks (1895–
Latvians, Barons is known for Krišjānis Barons 1920) and Romāns Suta
systematizing Latvia’s four-line folk (1896–1943), who were
songs (dainas). He did not collect them in person, but by selecting both members of the Rīga
certain songs as central and then listening to the differences Artists’ Group.
between them, he was able to include 217,996 songs in the six-
volume work he published between 1894 and 1915.
x Museum of Jews
350,000 four-line folk songs z Latvian National

in Latvia
Muzejs Ebreji Latvijā
sent by thousands of singers Museum of Art
and informants. Each was Skolas iela 6. Map 2 D2. Tel 6728
written according to Barons’s Latvijas Nacionalāis mākslas musejs 3484. Open 11am–5pm Mon–Thu,
instructions on a slip of paper Kr Valdermāra 10a. Map 2 D2. Tel 6732 Sun; Jun–Aug: 11am–5pm Fri. &
the same size as cigarette- 4461. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Thu, donations. ∑ jewishmuseum.lv
paper boxes, which he used for 10am–8pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun.
storage before the cabinet was & 8 ∑ lnmm.lv Housed inside a Jewish
built. Contrary to popular community centre, this
belief, not all the slips were The interior of this early museum is based around
rewritten by Barons. 20th-century Neo-Baroque the collections of Holocaust
building still has its original gilt survivors Zalman Elelson
and marble embellishments. and Marğers Vestermanis. It
l Orthodox While the collection was tells the story of the Jewish
Cathedral originally eclectic, in the 1920s community in Latvia, which
Pareizticīgo katedrāle and 30s the director Vilhelms begins in the 16th century
Purvītis (1872–1945), himself one with the first records of Jews
Brīvības iela 23. Map 2 D3. Tel 6721 of the country’s most famous in the country and progresses
2901. 5 8am, 6pm Mon–Sat; 6:30am, artists, decided to focus on to photographs of early 20th-
8:30am, 6pm Sun.
Latvian works. The first floor, century family life. Inevitably,
therefore, traces the develop- though, the focus is on the
Situated on the edge of ment of Latvian art from the mid- horrific years of the Nazi
Esplanade Park (Esplanāde), this 19th century to 1945, while the occupation. The museum does
Neo-Byzantine Russian ground floor displays 18th- and not shy away from distressing
cathedral is officially called the 19th-century Balto-Germanic images of the Holocaust, and
Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity and Russian art. The latter collec- it even includes footage of
(Kristus dzimšanas katedrāle). tion also includes many icons the massacre of Jews on
An attractive structure topped from the 16th to 20th centuries. Liepāja beach.
by five domes, it was built from
1876 to 1884 for the city’s
growing Russian community
and was part of a deliberate
process of Russification. It
became a Lutheran church
during the brief German
occupation of Rīga in World War I,
and once again an Orthodox
church in 1921.
As with many places of
worship, the Soviet authorities
found alternative uses for the
building during their occupa-
tion. In the 1960s they turned it
into a lecture hall and planet-
arium. The interior decorations
were nearly destroyed, and are
still being replaced. The elaborate domed roof of the Orthodox Cathedral
c Pauls Stradiņš
Museum of the Art Nouveau Architecture
History of Medicine Rīga’s collection of Art Nouveau buildings has been
Paula Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures
recognized by UNESCO as unparalleled anywhere in the
muzejs
world, with most found in the Quiet Centre (Klusais Centrs).
Antonijas iela 1. Map 2 D2. Tel 6722
Many of the early examples – dating from the turn of the
2665. @ 2, 24. Trolleybus 1, 19.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm 20th century – are categorized as eclectic Art Nouveau,
Thu). Closed last Fri of the month. making use of asymmetry, symbolic ornamentation and
& 8 ∑ mvm.lv details drawn from nature. Two other Art Nouveau styles
found here are perpendicular, which placed emphasis on
Opened in 1961, this museum vertical composition, and National Romanticism, which
is based around the collection
of cancer specialist Dr Pauls incorporated folk motifs and the use of natural materials.
Stradiņš and is one of the
world’s three biggest medical
museums. Its aim is to explore
the history of medicine in
relation to scientific develop-
ment. Ancient uses of
medicinal herbs, trepanning
(the oldest known surgery,
which involves making a hole
in the patient’s skull) and
Soviet developments in space
RŪP
biology and medicine are w Elizabetes iela 13
NIEZ
VĪL
covered. The oddest exhibit is Less ornately decorated than
ĪBAS
AND
a stuffed two-headed dog, others in the area, and

AU
ES
which was the result of judicious in its use of space,

SEK
IELA
IELA
experimental grafting. the façade of this building

ĻA
illustrates the principle of amor

IEL
vacui (love of space).

v Art Nouveau
A
IELA
Museum ELIZA
BETES
Jügendstila muzejs
Albert iela 12. Map 2 D2. Tel 6718
1464. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 ∑ jugendstils.riga.lv
This museum celebrates the Art

Nouveau movement for which
Rīga is most famous. It is located
in the former apartment of the
building’s architect, Konstantīns
Pekšēns (1859–1928), who lived
here around 1900.
Before you enter the apart- 9 Strēlnieku iela 4a
ment, note the elaborately Symbols of victory adorn this eclectic Art Nouveau edifice, including
decorated balconies and corner maidens clutching wreaths and bald eagles. The building, designed by
tower. Once indoors, it is worth Mikhail Eisenstein, now houses a private school.
climbing the staircase to the
fifth floor in order to view the
paintings that adorn the
ceilings. The interior is furnished
q Strēlnieku iela 2
throughout as it would have An example of perpendicular
been during the time when Art Nouveau, the architectural
Pekšēns lived here, although design of this building is
few of the items are original. relatively restrained, with
Visitors are guided by staff in ornamental details integrated
period costume, and there is a into the structure, including
short film about Art Nouveau carvings of grain at the top.
buildings in Rīga.
RĪGA  157
0 Elizabetes iela 23
This building has anthropomorphic
carvings and a pediment with the
words “Labor vinvit omnia” (Work 4 Alberta iela 4
conquers all), which commemo 8Alberta iela 13 Lions are uncommon in Art
rates architect Mārtiņš Nukša. The numerous female Nouveau, but in this eclectic
figures on this building building their wings indicate
IELA display a range their traditional connection
EKU with the sun.
ME
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Key List of Sites PU
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PU
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1 Elizabetes iela 10b 2 Elizabetes iela 33
2 Elizabetes iela 33 8 Alberta iela 13 This early experiment with Art
3 Alberta iela 2a 9 Strēlnieku iela 4a Nouveau by Mikhail Eisenstein, one
4 Alberta iela 4 0 Elizabetes iela 23 of the foremost proponents of the
5 Alberta iela 8 q Strēlnieku iela 2 eclectic style, draws upon
Historicist architecture.
6 Alberta iela 11 w Elizabetes iela 13
7 Alberta iela 12 e Vīlandes iela 2
Elsewhere in the City

Although the Quiet Centre includes
some of Rīga’s finest examples of
Art Nouveau, there are many other
buildings worth visiting elsewhere in
the city. Examples in the Old Town
include Kalēju iela 23, with its tree
shaped portal, and the city’s oldest
Art Nouveau building at Audēju
iela 7. There are excellent examples of
National Romanticism at Tērbatas iela
15/17 and A Čaka iela 26, and many
6 Alberta iela 11
impressive buildings on Brīvības iela
A fine example of National and Hamburgas iela. Art Nouveau
Romanticism, this building, cons in Rīga (Silvija Grosa, published by Brightly coloured façade,
tructed in natural stone, has bay Jumava) has good walks of the city. Kalēju iela 23
windows resembling turrets.
Further Afield Sights at a Glance

1 Moscow Suburb
Although primarily residential, Rīga’s suburbs include numerous 2 Central Market
places of interest for visitors. The Moscow Suburb, southeast of 3 Left Bank
the Old Town, has long been home to immigrant communities, 4 Botanical Gardens
including many Jews before World War II. In contrast, the 5 Aviation Museum
exclusive Mežaparks to the north was built for wealthy Baltic 6 Dauderi
7 Mežaparks
Germans. Across the Daugava river is the Left Bank, where old
8 Rīga’s Cemeteries
wooden buildings and a variety of museums can be found.
9 Biķernieki Forest
0 Motor Museum
0 km 5 Garkalne q Salaspils
•
A1
0 miles 5 w Rumbula Forest
e Vecāķi
r Latvian Ethnographic
A2
Kīšezers Open-Air Museum
A4
Key
Priedaįne Central Rīga
• •
Ūlupji Motorway
•
Ulbroka Main road

Rīga
International
Airport Minor road
Railway
Marupe
A4
Da
•
A5
ug
A8
A6
ava
Salaspils balcony on the 17th floor is

open to the public.
1 Moscow Suburb building with Jewish families E Rīga Ghetto Museum

and burned it to the ground. Maskavas 14a. Tel 6727 0827.
Maskavas forštate
The memorial includes the Open 10am–6pm Sun–Fri. ∑ rgm.lv
@ A18, T15. v 3, 7, 9.
names of the 270 Latvians T Choral Synagogue Ruins
known to have rescued Jews Corner of Gogoļa & Dzirnavu iela.
The area to the east of the during the war and the image
Central Market has long been of Žanis Lipke, who, with his R Russian Orthodox Church of
known as the Moscow Suburb, wife Johanna, saved more than the Annunciation
Gogoļa iela 9. Tel 6722 0566.
for the road to Moscow ran 50 lives.
through it and many of its Other religious buildings in R Church of Jesus
inhabitants were impoverished the area include the small and Elijas iela 18. Tel 6722 4123.
Russians. They were joined by atmospheric Russian Orthodox 5 6pm Thu, 10am Sun.
Jews – who had previously Church of the Annunciation P Academy of Sciences
been banned from settling in (Tserkva blagoveshtenya) and Akadēmijas laukums 1. Tel 2008 8097.
the city – in the second half of the domed Grebenshchikov Balcony Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm
the 19th century. When the Church (Grebenščikova baznīca) daily. &
German army arrived in 1941, where Old Believers (see p126)
they established a Jewish worship. The distinctive
ghetto in the suburb, bounded octagonal Lutheran Church
by Kalna, Lauvas, Ebreju, Jersikas of Jesus (Jēzus baznīca), the
and Daugavpils streets. largest wooden church in the
Still home to many non- city, is also worth visiting.
Latvians today, it is a quiet area The Academy of Sciences
with cobbled side-streets and (Latvijas zinātņu akadēmija) is
numerous wooden and a more controversial landmark.
religious buildings. The nearby Rīga’s first skyscraper, it was built
Rīga Ghetto Museum attempts between 1953 and 1957 in a
to depict life inside the Jewish pseudo-Baroque style which
ghetto, with barbed-wire fences, earned it the nickname “Stalin’s
original cobblestones and other Birthday Cake”. The ornamenta-
artifacts. A memorial was tion includes both Latvian folk
unveiled at the Choral imagery and hammer-and-
Synagogue Ruins on 4 July sickle motifs, and while parts of
2007, exactly 66 years after it are in need of repair it remains Academy of Sciences, nicknamed “Stalin’s
German soldiers had filled the an impressive structure. The Birthday Cake”
RĪGA  159
Gunnar Birkerts, houses the

National Library of Latvia. Its
unusual, sloping shape sym-
bolizes a mythic castle said to
have sunk into an ancient lake
only to re-emerge once Latvians
were masters of their own land.
Opened in 2014, the library hosts
exhibitions and cultural events.
E Railway Museum
2–4 Uzvaras bulvāris. Tel 6723 2849.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm
Thu). & ∑ railwaymuseum.lv
E Castle of Light
Mūkusalas iela 3. Tel 6780 6135.
Well-maintained locomotives on show at the Railway Museum, Left Bank Open 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ lnb.lv
2 Central Market and some of the country’s best
wooden architecture, found in
Centrāltirgus
Āgenskalns district. 4 Botanical
Centrāltirgus 1. Open 8am–5pm daily.
^ ∑ centraltirgus.lv
Just across the Stone Bridge Gardens
(Akmens tilts) is the city’s Railway Botāniskais dārzs
Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļa
Housed in five Zeppelin hangars, muzejs), the highlight of which is Kandavas iela 2. Tel 6745 0852. v 5
Rīga’s Central Market is one of the collection of rolling stock in to Konsula iela. Open Apr–Jun: 9am–
7pm; Jul–Aug 10am–9pm; Sep–Mar:
the most distinctive in Europe. the yard outside. Exhibits housed
9am–4:30pm. & 8 in English,
The hangars, which the German inside a renovated engine
Russian or German by arrangement.
Kaiser’s army had abandoned in warehouse include photographs 7 ∑ botanika.lu.lv
Kurzeme during World War I, were of Latvian stations, old tickets and
moved to their current site during posters, railway staff uniforms Founded in 1922 as part of the
the 1920s. The market building and signalling equipment. University of Latvia, the Botanical
sells mostly fresh food, while the Close by is Victory Park Gardens have been in their
area around it is crammed with (Uzvaras parks), named for current location since 1926. The
stalls selling other goods. the Red Army’s victory over site includes 5,400 species of
the Nazis, which was depicted plants, with approximately 400
by the Soviet regime as a of them native to Latvia; many
3 Left Bank “liberation” of the city. The war of them are rare or endangered.
Pārdaugava memorial depicting soldiers In the centre of the garden is a
being greeted by a welcoming complex of five greenhouses,
@ A8, T9. v 2, 4, 5, 10. figure of Victory is controversial including a palm house, a
and Latvian nationalists have large collection of ferns, and a
Although most sites of interest twice tried to blow it up. greenhouse devoted to cacti and
lie on the right bank of the The massive Castle of Light other succulents. The gardens
Daugava river, the Left Bank (Gaismas pils), designed by are particularly attractive from
includes specialist museums Latvian-American architect spring through to summer.
Greenhouse set amid the lush grounds of Rīga’s Botanical Gardens

5 Aviation Museum
Aviācijas muzejs
Rīga Airport. Tel 2686 2707.
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun
by arrangement. & 8 - =
∑ aviamuseum.org
Located just beside Rīga’s

airport, this private open-air
museum claims to have the
largest collection of Soviet
aircraft outside the Common-
wealth of Independent States.
The impressive array of aero-
planes and helicopters is the
legacy of the Young Pilot’s Neo-Gothic façade of Dauderi mansion dating from the 19th century
Club, an organization founded
in 1956 which was granted periods of time. The Soviet army whom later returned to Germany
used military aircraft for later occupied the building, at the beginning of World War II.
training purposes. After the and in turn the Germans placed During the war a concentration
break-up of the Soviet Union, anti-aircraft guns in the grounds. camp was set up in the area by
funding dried up, but in 1998 The mansion has also been the Nazis, housing Jews brought
the equipment was moved used as a kindergarten and as from liquidated ghettos across
onto airport territory. In tasting rooms for the Ministry Eastern Europe. The camp was
addition to the aircraft, both of Food. closed when the Red Army
military and civilian, there is Now converted into a invaded in 1944 and nothing
a small exhibition of uniforms museum, the rooms are remains of it today. During the
and other equipment. Opening decorated and furnished Soviet period many of the
hours can be erratic so visitors in the style of the suburb’s buildings fell
should call ahead. 1920s and 30s. There into disrepair. Since
are displays dedi- independence,
cated to the life however, property
of Ulmanis, the prices in Mežaparks
nation’s first period have risen, and the
of independence area is now predo-
and the cultural minantly Latvian
activities of Latvian with a significant
exiles during World Cherubs decorating the ceiling number of foreign
War II and the of Dauderi mansion owners including
subsequent Soviet several embassies.
occupation. The collection Some of the new residents are
is eclectic and includes building homes which are
photographs, medals, puppets grand, if not always tasteful,
and folk costumes. The mansion while others are restoring older
is surrounded by a park buildings. The area is fascinating
containing sculptures and to walk around for its mix of
artificial ruins. contemporary, Modernist and
M16 airplane, on show at the Art Nouveau buildings, with
Aviation Museum Hamburgas Street a particular
7 Mežaparks highlight of the area.
Another reason to visit
v 11.
6 Dauderi the area is Rīga Zoo (Rīgas
Sarkandaugavas iela 30. Tel 6739
Previously called Kaiserwald zooloğiskais dārzs), a well-
1780, 6739 2229. v 5 or 9 to Aldaris. (German for “Emperor’s Forest”) maintained site which is popular
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & in reference to its use as a base with families. It is known for its
∑ history-museum.lv by the invading Swedish king bears and has an excellent
Gustav Adolphus in the 17th tropical house, although the
This late 19th-century Neo- century, this part of northeast zoo’s star attraction is a pair of
Gothic mansion, 6 km (4 miles) Rīga became Europe’s first rare Amur tigers. Rides in a
from Rīga’s city centre, was the garden city in the early 20th horse-drawn carriage are
summer residence of Latvian century. Renamed Mežaparks, available during the summer,
president Kārlis Ulmanis from meaning “Forest Park”, it was and special events take place
1937 to 1940, although he only designed as a suburb for throughout the year, including
ever stayed here for short wealthy Baltic Germans, most of the weighing of the zoo’s
RĪGA  161
tortoises in June, and Wolves’ districts as well as soil from every 9 Biķernieki Forest
Day in September. pagasts (parish). Biķernieku mežs
Close to the zoo is the Song The Rainis Cemetery (Raiņa
@ A16, T14.
Stadium (Mežaparka estrāde), kapi) existed before the writer
which was built to host the and atheist Janis Pliekšāns,
National Song Festival, held known as Rainis, was buried This site was chosen by the
every five years. With the finale there in 1929, but it was Nazis for the execution and
including more than 10,000 renamed in his honour. His burial of around 40,000 Jews
singers on stage at one time, memorial allegorically depicts a and other “undesirables” brought
the stadium is built on a very youthful Latvia awakening from from Germany and several
large scale. its slumber. Rainis’s wife Elza occupied European countries
Rozenberga, who wrote under between 1941 and 1944. The
O Rīga Zoo the name Aspazija, lies beside memorial is the most moving of
Meža prospekts 1. Tel 6751 8409. him, and many other those in the Rīga area. A path
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Latvian artists and leads from Biķernieku Street
Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. & 8 musicians have also been under a white concrete
∑ rigazoo.lv buried here. arch, revealing a field of
The Woodlands jagged stones huddled
Cemetery (Meža kapi) together into sections,
8 Rīga’s Cemeteries opened in 1913 and is the each representing a city
Aizsaules iela. @ A9. v 11.
burial place for many from which Jews were
Open daily. political figures from deported. The centre-
Latvia’s first period of piece is a concrete
Rīga’s three most interesting independence. It was canopy under which a
cemeteries are located just south intended that the main black stone stands,
of Mežaparks along Aizsaules alley would lead with an inscription
Street. The grandest is the straight to the Mother Latvia statue, reading “O earth,
Brothers’ Cemetery (Brāļu kapi), memorial to Latvia’s first Brothers’ Cemetery cover not thou my
built for Latvians who died president, Janis Čakste blood, and let my cry
defending their country during (1859–1927), but during the have no place” (Job 16:18).
World War I and the War of Soviet era smaller gravestones Further smaller memorials
Independence. The best-known were put in the way. Janis nearby mark mass graves. The
sculptures are three patriotic Rozentāls (see p26) was also laid site can be reached on foot
works by Kārlis Zāle: Two Brothers, to rest at the site, while the most from the Motor Museum (see
The Wounded Horseman and famous sculpture is the Grieving p162) although the route is not
Mother Latvia. The memorial Mother, which marks the signposted; the trolleybus stop
features the 19 coats of arms of suspicious death of the nation’s is about 1 km (half a mile) from
the Latvian administrative foreign minister in 1925. the memorial.
Evocative jagged stones of the Holocaust Memorial, Biķernieki Forest

several occupied countries 1941. The victims, mostly

after Rīga’s main ghetto was women, children and the
closed. The number of people elderly from the Rīga ghetto,
who died in the camp is were shot and their bodies
disputed as the Soviet regime dumped in five mass graves.
subsequently exaggerated the Just three people are known to
figures as a propaganda tool, have survived. The location of
but it is thought that hundreds the killings came to light after
were either killed directly or the war, when two local people
died as a result of the camp’s tried to sell jewellery found in
harsh conditions. the area.
The entrance to the camp Until the late 1980s, the
is marked by a long, sloping memorials identified the dead
concrete block placed at an as Soviet citizens, although
angle to the ground, intended members of the Jewish com-
to symbolize the boundary munity illegally tended the site
Auto Union V16 racing car on display at the between life and death. The text and were eventually allowed to
Motor Museum on the block reads “Behind this add a modest stone bearing
gate the earth groans” – a line Hebrew text. The focal point of
0 Motor Museum from a poem by Eižens Vēveris, the memorial, constructed in
Rīgas motormuzejs who was a prisoner at camp. 2002, is a large menorah (seven-
Inside the block is a small branched candlestick),
S Eizenšteina 6. Tel 6702 5888. @ 5, exhibition which, like the surrounded by broken stones,
15; minibus 207, 263. Open 10am– rest of the site, has a each of which is inscribed with
6pm daily. & 8 in English or
rather neglected air. the names of a murdered family.
Russian. - =
∑ motormuzejs.lv
Beyond this, the shape
of the camp has been
Row after row of gleaming indicated, and a metro-
e Vecāķi
cars, motorcycles and nome ticks inside a block 15 km (9 miles) NE of central Rīga. £
bicycles are housed in this of stone – its slow beat @ A24.
modern, hangar-like building. seemingly coming from
There are over 240 vehicles deep inside the earth. This stretch of coast is a popular
in total – both Latvian-made Sculpture Dominating the site is a escape from the city during
and foreign. The highlight is at Salaspils series of huge sculptures summer, although its beach is
a series taken from the erected in 1967, with rarely crowded. At the eastern
Kremlin’s collection. The titles such as The Humiliated end there is an area reserved for
former Soviet president Leonid and The Unbroken. naturists. It is worth walking west
Brezhnev, in particular, was a along the coast, towards the
motor enthusiast and one of the mouth of the Daugava river, to
exhibits is a 1966 Rolls Royce w Rumbula Forest see the remains of fortifications
Silver Shadow which he crashed Rumbulas mežs built to protect what was one of
in Moscow – a startled-looking Europe’s biggest ports. Many
waxwork sits behind the wheel. 11 km (7 miles) from central Rīga, of the bunkers date from the
There is also a heavy armoured along Maskavas iela. £ time of the Napoleonic Wars,
ZIS 115S limousine used by Stalin. but were last used during
Small panels give background At least 25,000 Jews were World War I. The fortifications
information on the vehicles and murdered in Rumbula Forest on have not been well maintained,
tell the story of the automotive 30 November and 8 December so exercise caution.
industry in Latvia. The museum
shop sells model cars.
q Salaspils
15 km (9 miles) SE of central Rīga.
£ Dārziņi. ∑ salaspils.lv
Although its history stretches

back to the 12th century,
Salaspils is notorious as the
location of a World War II
German concentration camp.
Its original inmates were
prisoners of war, but they were
joined by Jews brought from Vast sandy coastline of Vecāķi, northeast of central Rīga
RĪGA  163
rLatvian Ethnographic VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Open-Air Museum Practical Information

Brīvības gatve 440. Tel 6799 4510.
Latvijas Etnogrāfiskais brīvdabas muzejs
Open 10am–5pm daily. & 8
Occupying 86 ha (213 acres) of woodland on the shores of 5 10am Sun. -
Lake Jugla, this site includes over 118 homesteads, churches, ∑ brivdabasmuzejs.lv
windmills and other structures from across Latvia. Founded Transport

in 1924, the museum is organized according to Latvia’s ethno- @ 1.
graphic regions – Vidzeme, Kurzeme, Zemgale and Latgale –

drawing attention to variations in building design and living
arrangements in different parts of the country. With craftspeople
working on-site during the summer, and many buildings
containing everyday artifacts, the museum offers an insight
into 19th-century rural life and takes at least 2 hours to explore.
Vidzeme Spinning Dutch Windmill

Wheel-Maker’s Homestead The windmill (1890) is from
Latgale and can operate two
grindstones simultaneously.
. Kurzeme Peasants’
Homestead
This wooden building with a
reed-thatched roof is typical of
19th-century rural architecture
in southwest Kurzeme.
Zemgale Peasants’
Homestead
includes a dwelling-
house, a bath-house,
granaries and a
threshing barn.
Handicrafts
Handicraft displays
include traditional
wickerwork.
Kurzeme
Fishermen’s
Village
Entrance
. Usma Church
Most wooden
churches were Old Believers’ House
replaced by stone Located in a Latgale village, the
buildings in the 19th house exhibits a loom for
century, making this a weaving thread and a samovar
rare survivor. used to boil water for tea.
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WESTERN LATVIA
Known for its dense forests and fertile plains, lively cities and
sleepy rural towns, Western Latvia enchants visitors with its
contrasts. The Kurzeme region is quiet and sparsely populated,
with the major exceptions of the busy ports of Ventspils and
Liepāja. Running along the Lithuanian border, the largely
agricultural Zemgale region is dotted with castles and manor
houses recalling past glories.
Prior to the arrival of the German crusaders, (r.1642–81). The Duchy was incorporated
the heavily forested western region now into the Russian Empire in 1795, and its
called Kurzeme was dominated by the fate was thereafter tied up with that of the
Kurši tribe, while the Livs inhabited its rest of what is now Latvia.
northern coast. The fertile and well- Today, most of Kurzeme retains its rural
drained terrain running along the Lielupe character, although the cities of Liepāja
river in the south was home to the and Ventspils are among the largest and
Zemgaļi; together with an eastern region most vibrant in the country. The few
formerly called Selonia, this area is now remaining speakers of the Liv language
known as Zemgale. The Kurzeme tribes continue their fishing traditions on the
were defeated in 1267 and just over two northern coast. The area has several pictur-
decades later the same fate befell the esque small towns, including Kuldiga and
Zemgaļi – the last of the Latvian tribes Talsi. The Zemgale countryside consists
to surrender. mainly of flat farmland, with exceptions
When the Livonian Order collapsed in such as forest parks in the hills around
the 16th century its last master, Gotthard Tērvete. Jelgava’s Old Town was
Kettler, retained control of the entire devastated during World War II, although
region as a largely independent fiefdom of the duke’s palace is still standing. The most
Poland. With Jelgava as its capital, the popular tourist attraction, however, is
Duchy of Courland and Semigallia reached Rundāle Palace with its Baroque exterior
its zenith under Duke Jakob Kettler and restored Rococo interior.
Bright yellow rape fields in full bloom, Kurzeme

Tree-lined approach to the splendid Rundāle Palace
Exploring Western Latvia

Cape
Kurzeme’s long, unspoiled coastline has some tranquil villages Kolka
as well as the cities of Ventspils and Liepāja. Ventspils is one of THE LIVONIAN
COAST
Latvia’s busiest ports, while Liepāja has been transformed from Kolka
a derelict port to a vibrant cultural centre. Further inland, Slītere
National
Kuldīga is among the country’s most attractive small towns and Park
makes a good base for exploration, while Pedvāle is popular Muņi

for its outdoor sculptures. In Zemgale, Rundāle Palace, VIRAC Miķeļtornis
Oviši
Bauska Castle and a Neo-Classical palace at Mežotne
DUNDAGA
are highlights. Jelgava, a major transport hub, is a Ance
good base from which to explore the region. Virpe

Staldzene Ğibzde
Blāzma
VENTSPILS
Ste
nd
e
Vārve Ugāle
0 kilometres 20
Lībciems
0 miles 20
Ušava Spāre
Ziras Ven Lake

ta Usmas
Zlēkas
Abava Renda
Sights at a Glance
Ul
ava
Ozoli
Towns and Cities Ēdole
R ie ž u p e
1 Jelgava
KULDĪGA
4 Bauska Alsunga Krogsētas
7 Dobele Vārme
Rīva
9 Ķemeri Birži
0 Tukums PĀVILOSTA Snēpele Šķēde
Saka
e Dundaga
Te b ra Aprīķi
t Ventspils pp180–81 Ķikuri Druva
u Tals
Du
me
be
Aizpute Kazdanga
r
i Sabile
rze
Ziemupe
p Saldus
Cīrava
Ku Skrunda
a Kuldīga Vērgale
Saraiķi
d Liepāja pp184–5 Kalvene
Durbe
Ve n
Sights and Buildings of Interest

a t
Grobiņa Pampāļi
2 Mežotne Palace Tadaiķi Embūte
3 Rundāle Palace pp172–3 LIEPĀJA
Dubeņi Zaņa
5 Skaistkalne Roman Catholic
Lake Liepāja Priekule Vaiņode
Church
Pērkone
8 Jaunpils Castle
Rude Gramzda
y VIRAC
o Pedvāle Open-Air Museum Klampjuciems Bārta Bārta
Parks and Reserves Jūrmalciems

6 Tērvete Nature Park Dunika
f Lake Pape Nature Reserve
LAKE PAPE Lake
Area of Natural Beauty NATURE Pape Rucava
RESERVE Key
w Lake Engure
Motorway
Beaches and Resorts
Main road
q Jūrmala pp174–5
Secondary road
s Pāvilosta
Minor road
Tour Railway
r The Livonian Coast p177 International border
W E S T E R N L AT V I A  169
Ģipka
Roja
Kaltene
Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
Bērzciems
Valdgale Krievragciems
Ruins of the 15th-century Bauska Castle, perched on a grassy mound
LAKE
TALSI ENGURE
Nurmuiža Engure
Dižstende
Cēre Apšuciems
Sēme
SABILE JŪRMALA
Kandava
Rīga Jēkabpils
Lake
PEDVĀLE TUKUMS Sloka Babites
OPEN-AIR
MUSEUM ĶEMERI
Sāti Baloži
Vāne Slampe Tīreļi Ķekava
Ab
Vaski
av
kste Kalnciems
a
Zante Mi
Džū sa
Olaine
Džūkste
Viesati Jaunbērze Zem Stūri
JAUNPILS gal
a
Klāvi
at
s
Vi e CASTLE e
Pilsblīdene Annenieki JELGAVA Garoza
Svēte Iecava Stelpe
SALDUS Upenieki DOBELE
Vircava
Emburga
Svete
Ie
L ie
va
a
ca
Sesav
lu p
Striķi Zalenieki Bārbele

e
TĒRVETE
Puijas Skares NATURE Tērvete
MEŽOTNE SKAISTKALNE
PARK Eleja PALACE ROMAN
Kursīši Auce Bēne CATHOLIC
te
BAUSKA
ve
CHURCH
RUNDĀLE
r
Tē
Grīvaši Augstkalne
Bukaiši PALACE Kamārde
Ruba Ukri Šiauliai
Panevėžys
Getting Around
To explore Western Latvia’s remote towns and villages, it is
generally best to travel by car. By contrast, it is also possible to visit
the region’s many other attractions by using public transport.
While buses are a good option for reaching Bauska and most
of Kurzeme’s sights, taking a train is preferable for trips to Jelgava
and Tukums. However, as there are no direct routes between Rīga
and Rundāle, visitors will need to travel to Bauska and take an
onward bus from there. The port towns of Ventspils and Liepāja
have good ferry connections with Rīga as well as with other
European cities. There are also airports at Liepāja and Ventspils.
Jelgava Palace, built on an island in the Lielupe river, Jelgava
1 Jelgava who died in 1917 in Latvia as to the grandchildren of the

Road Map C4. * 66,000.
German prisoners of war during Russian Tsarina Catherine II.
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga. World War I. The original design by Italian
n Akadēmijas iela 1, 6300 5445. architect Giacomo Quarenghi
_ International Ice Sculpture Festival + Jelgava Palace was developed by local archi-
(Feb). ∑ visit.jelgava.lv Lielā iela 2. Tel 6300 5617. Open mid- tect J G Berlitz. The Lieven
May–Aug: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat; Sep– family lost the manor in 1920
Between 1578 and 1795, mid-May: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. & 8 during the agrarian reforms,
Jelgava was the capital of the R Orthodox Cathedral of and it was partly destroyed
Duchy of Courland. The most St Simeon and St Anna during World War II. Today, the
prominent remnant of the Raiņa iela 5. Tel 6302 0207. palace is used for functions and
duchy period is the Jelgava Open 9am–5pm daily. 5 5pm. as a hotel, but it is also open
Palace (Jelgavas pils), the winter to visitors. The highlight is the
E History and Art Museum
residence of Ernst Johann Biron Akadēmijas iela 10. Tel 6302 3383.
Dome Hall, with artificial marble
(see p173). Built in the 18th Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & pillars and walls, and a dome
century by Francesco B Rastrelli, painted to give the illusion of
the building today houses the E Latvian Railway Museum three-dimensional decoration.
Latvian University of Agriculture. Stacijas iela 3. Tel 6309 6494. The grounds are in the style of
None of the original interiors Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sat (to an English park, and in summer
remain intact, but a small 7pm Thu). & 8 boats take visitors across the
museum houses archive photo- Lielupe river. On the other side
graphs of the palace’s pre-war of the river is a castle mound,
state. Museum staff also provide 2 Mežotne Palace site of one of the largest
access to the burial vault of the Road Map D4. Tel 6396 0711. Semigallian castles and scene
dukes of Courland. Around 50 Open 9am–8pm daily. & 0 of their final battle against the
wild horses roam the meadows ∑ mezotnespils.lv German crusaders (1290).
on the island behind the palace.
The Old Town offers a handful This restored Neo-Classical
of interesting sights. The structure was built in 1802 for 3 Rundāle Palace
impressively restored Orthodox Charlotte von Lieven, governess
See pp 172–3.
Cathedral of St Simeon and
St Anna (Sv Sīmaņa un Annas
pareizticīgo katedrāle) was
designed by Rastrelli for Biron’s 4 Bauska
patron, Anna Ivanovna. A Baroque Road Map D4. * 11,000. @ from
building houses the History Rīga. n Rātslaukums 1, 6392 3797.
and Art Museum (Vēstures un _ Early Music Festival (Jul),
mākslas muzejs), which docu- International Country Music Festival
ments local history, while the (Jul). ∑ tourism.bauska.lv
quirky little Latvian Railway
Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļu A small country town, Bauska
muzejs) attracts rail enthusiasts. is known mainly for its
15th-century Bauska Castle
Environs (Bauskas pils), which was built at
The small Nikolai Cemetery, the confluence of the Mēmele
4 km (2 miles) southeast of and Mūsa rivers to help control
Jelgava, contains the graves Pastel-coloured exterior of the the trade route between Rīga
of 36 British soldiers and sailors Neo-Classical Mežotne Palace and Lithuania. Later, it became
the property of the Duchy of artificial marble palisades and E Anna Brigadere Museum
Courland and Semigallia and a an ornate altarpiece. Plump, Sprīdīši. Tel 2653 2691. Open May–
fortified residence was added pastel-coloured cherubs Oct: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
for the duke. Restoration work decorate the pulpit and organ, E Tērvete History Museum
has reversed inauthentic Soviet and two sets of paintings Lielķēniņi. Tel 2695 0975. Open May–
alterations, including the represent the Stations of the Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
renewal of the original sgraffito Cross. Call ahead, as the church
decoration on the towers. is often locked.
It is possible to climb one of 7 Dobele
the towers for a small fee,
and tours of the castle are 6 Tērvete Nature Road Map C4. * 11,100. £ @
n Baznicas iela 6, 6372 3074.
illuminating. Park ∑ dobele.lv
Besides a number of fine Tērvetes dabas parks
wooden buildings, the town Situated on the banks of the
Road Map C4. @ n Tērvetes Sils,
also boasts a 16th-century 6372 6212. Open 9am–7pm daily
Bērze river, Dobele is visited
Lutheran church and the (Nov–Feb: to 5pm). & mainly for its ruined Livonian
riverside Bauskas Alus brewery. - = 7 partial. Order castle, built in 1335.
∑ tervetesparks.lv Destroyed several times dur-
+ Bauska Castle ing the Polish-Swedish
Tel 6392 2280. Open May–Sep: This popular nature Wars (1600–29), the
9am–7pm daily; Oct: 9am–6pm daily; park was developed in castle began to be
Nov–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & the forest around restored only in 2002. The
∑ bauskaspils.lv Tērvete, which was small Dobele History
Bauskas Alus famous as the home of Museum recounts the
Tel 2945 1942. Open by appointment. Sprīdītis, a Tom Thumb- town’s history and
8 ∑ bauskasalus.lv like character in the mounts temporary
beloved fairytale by exhibitions. On the
Anna Brigadere edge of town, the
(1861–1933). Her Wooden figure, Dobele Horticultural
summer house has Tērvete Nature Park Plant Breeding
been preserved as Experimental Station
the Anna Brigadere Museum. houses a museum dedicated to
The theme of the fairytale noted horticulturalist Pēteris
is evident throughout the Upītis (1896–1976). One of the
park, with its Dwarf Forest largest lilac collections in the
and Fairytale Forest dotted world can also be found here.
with carved wooden creatures. Classical music concerts are held
Summertime attractions in the gardens every spring,
include the park’s own witch, while the flowers are in bloom.
and there are quieter paths
through the Old Pine Forest. Environs
Nearby are a Livonian Order A drive of 13 km (8 miles)
castle mound with an impos- down a gravel road west of
Embellished altarpiece, Skaistkalne Roman ing replica fort and the Tērvete town, the Pokaiņi Forest is an
Catholic Church History Museum, which area of spiritual significance
displays a collection of farm due to its numerous unusual
5 Skaistkalne utensils and textiles. rock formations.
Roman Catholic
Church
Skaistkalnes Romas katoļu baznīca
Road Map D4. Slimnīcas iela 2,
Skaistkalne. Tel 6393 3154. 8
Built for the Jesuits in 1692

and now maintained and
administered by monks of
the Paulian Order, Skaistkalne
Church is Latvia’s most popular
place of pilgrimage after Aglona
(see p199). Raised on a mound,
the white building has a red
roof and a rounded apse. The
Baroque interior features Ruins of the 14th-century Livonian Order castle in Dobele
3 Rundāle Palace
Designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700–71),
Rundāle is one of the finest palaces in the Baltic region. Work
began in 1736 on a Baroque summer residence for Ernst
Johann Biron, but was left unfinished when he was exiled.
Following Biron’s return, the interiors were renovated in the
Rococo style. Biron’s son removed most of the furnishings
when he left in 1795, after Courland was annexed by Russia.
The structure suffered damage during the 20th century, and
the rooms have served as an elementary school and a
granary. Restoration began in 1972 and is still in progress.
Detail, Rose Room
Rococo touches, such as fake
marble, silver detailing and floral
motifs, adorn the room.
. Duke’s Bedroom
This room was the focal point of
Biron’s private apartments, which
occupied the central
block of the palace.
The Corner Room

The Russian Neo-Classical style reflects the
taste of Count Zubov, who inhabited the . Gold Hall
palace after Courland was absorbed into The initials of the palace’s owner, “EJ”, can be
the Russian Empire. seen amid the ornate gilt scrolls.
Ernst Johann Biron
The son of a minor landlord, Ernst Practical Information
Johann Biron was asked to leave the Road Map D4. Tel 6396 2274.
academy in Königsberg (present- Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
day Kaliningrad) for bad behaviour. Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
Failing to establish himself in the 8 0 ∑ rundale.net Park:
Russian court, he returned to Open Jun–Sep: 10am–7pm daily
Jelgava and became close to the (to 9pm Fri–Sun); May & Oct: 10am
widowed Duchess of Courland, –6pm; Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily.
Anna Ivanovna. In 1730, Anna
Transport
became empress of Russia,
@ from Bauska.
and three years later Biron was
appointed Duke of Courland. Duke of Courland, Ernst Johann Biron
After his patron died in 1740, the (1690–1772)
unpopular Biron was sent into exile,
returning only in 1763. A year later, Catherine II made him duke
once more, but he abdicated in 1769 in favour of his son Peter.
Duchess’s Boudoir
The duchess could rest and receive visitors
during the day in the splendidly decorated
boudoir, which has now been restored.
The duchess and other family members
lived in the western wing.
KEY
1 The Grand Gallery was where

guests would dine before dancing in
the White Hall. Wall paintings were
uncovered during restoration.
2 Rose Room
3 Duke’s Reception Room
4 The Marble Hall was used as a
school gym in the 20th century.
5 An exhibition on the palace’s
construction is on display in the
building’s basement.
6 A display of period clothes fills
three rooms with fashions from the
17th and 18th centuries.
7 The courtyard has gateposts
. White Hall
topped by the duke’s emblem – a
This ballroom boasts
heraldic lion.
lavish stucco work by
German sculptor 8The Oval Porcelain Cabinet,
Johann Michael Graff. made by Johann Michael Graff,
The restrained colour was designed to display the house-
scheme gives the hold’s collection of fine china.
room its name.
8 Jaunpils Castle
Jaunpils pils
Road Map C4. Tel 6310 7082.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & -
∑ jaunpilspils.lv
Built by the Livonian Order in

1301, with its distinctive round
tower added in the 15th century,
Jaunpils Castle was owned by
the German von der Recke
family from 1561 to 1922. On
24 December 1905, the castle
was burned down by
revolutionaries (see p139), and
the current structure is almost One of a dozen bridges across the Vēršupīte river, Ķemeri Park
entirely the result of subsequent
reconstruction. The small 9 Ķemeri Ķemeri Park, encompasses an
museum inside includes replicas Road Map C3. @ from Rīga.
Orthodox church, pavilions and
of weapons and armour, as well n Meža Māja, 6773 0078. 8 canoe bridges across the Vēršupīte river.
as some interesting photographs trips & wildlife tours arranged at Ķemeri is also the entry
of the castle before 1905. Across visitors’ centre. ∑ daba.gov.lv point to Ķemeri National Park,
the courtyard from the museum which has rivers, lakes, mea-
is a pub, and the castle also has A popular resort in the early 20th dows, inland dunes, sulphur
eight atmospheric hotel rooms century, Ķemeri is considered springs and forests. A 3-km
(see p301). Guided tours also take part of Jūrmala, although it has (2-mile) wooden pathway
in Jaunpils town’s Evangelical not seen the same scale of traverses the park’s 6,000-ha
Lutheran Church and the early rejuvenation experienced further (14,830-acre) bog, which
19th-century watermill. east. The town’s main attraction, attracts bird-watchers.
q Jūrmala
Literally meaning “seaside” in Latvian, Jūrmala is an attractive
stretch of beaches, pine forests and small towns alongside
the Gulf of Rīga. During the 19th century, the area became
famous for its medicinal mud and sulphur-rich spring water.
Jūrmala soon grew into a popular resort and it became
fashionable to own a summerhouse here. The wooden houses
as well as older sanitaria still dot the area, standing alongside
modern guesthouses and upmarket spas.
Jomas Street in Majori is a
pedestrianized strip that forms the
Jūrmala heart of Jūrmala. It is lined with a
Area of Lielupe large number of outdoor cafés,
G u l f o f Rī ga main map
Dubulti restaurants and hotels, as well as
Majori a variety of shops.
Kaugari
Vaivari Jaundubulti Gulf of
Sloka Rīga
Marienbāde
Sanitarium was Majori
built in 1870. Beach
IELA
AS
JŨR
A
IEL
JŪRMALA AS
A PROSPE JOM
VIC KTS MAJORI
Aspazija House was IER
O
E
the last home of one of Z M Lielupe
Latvia’s most famous
poets, Elza Rozenberga D U B U LT I
(1865–1943), DUB
U LT U
TS
nicknamed PRO
SPEK
“Aspazija”. The
S LO K A
Jūrmala City Museum charts

house is now a the growth of the seaside
branch of the
S IELA
resort from the early 19th

Jūrmala Town Museum. century to today.
0 Tukums from the 1920s and 30s. It is a distinctive red-brick manor

Road Map C3. * 19,000. £ from
is considered to be Latvia’s house with step gables and
Rīga. @ n Talsu 5, 6312 4451. foremost gallery outside Rīga. chimneys. Many of the rooms
( Tue, Thu, Sat. _ Rose Festival of this former hunting lodge are
(Jul). ∑ visittukums.lv Environs decorated in an ornate style.
Durbes Pils, a manor house on A highlight is a large tiled stove
Meaning the “Land of the End” in the eastern edge of Tukums, is bearing images of Rīga and
Livonian, Tukums stands at the an 1820s Neo-Classical building Jūrmala. The forest museum
point where the Zemgale plains with a 17th-century core. The upstairs includes oddities such
meet the Kurzeme uplands. restored rooms include displays as a collection of silver cigarette
Little remains of the town’s on local history, holders. It is possible to climb
history as an ancient but the foremost the tower for stunning views of
Liv settlement, exhibition is the the surrounding countryside.
while the only ethnological
remnant of the collection in E Local History Museum
Livonian Order castle is the former servants’ Brīvības laukums 19a. Tel 6312 4348.
the Palace Tower (Pils quarters. About 5 km Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
10am–4pm Sun. &
tornis). Restored in 1767 to (3 miles) east of Tukums is
serve as a granary and jail, the 15th-century Šlokenbeka E Tukums Art Museum
it now houses the Monument to freedom Manor, home to Harmonijas 7. Tel 6318 2392.
Local History the Latvian Road Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm
fighters, Tukums
Sat & Sun. &
Museum, which dis- Museum. Many
plays dioramas and exhibits are of special- + Durbes Pils
temporary exhibitions. ist interest but the collections of Mazā parka 7. Tel 6312 2633.
The oldest buildings in the old horse-drawn carriages and road Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
11am–4pm Sun. & 8 ^
town date from the late 19th building machines have a more
and early 20th centuries. The general appeal. E Latvian Road Museum
main highlight, Tukums Art Jaunmoku Pils (see p323), Milzkalne. Tel 2990 4147.
Museum, houses Latvian art 5 km (3 miles) west of Tukums, Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri. &
Dzintari Beach, is a popular

stretch of sand that draws hordes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of tourists in summer. It is dotted
with beer tents and volleyball
Road Map C3. n Lienes iela 5,
nets during this time.
Majori, 6714 7900.
Aspazija House: Meierovica prosp
20, Dubulti. Tel 6776 9445.
0 km 1 Jūrmala City Museum: Tirgoņu
0 miles 1 iela 29, Majori. Tel 6776 4746.
Dzintari Concert Hall: Turaidas iela
1. Tel 6776 2086. Morbergs’
Summer Cottage: Dzintaru
Prospekts 52/54. Tel 6722 7175.
Dzintari Concert Hall
Bulduri
hosts open-air Beach LIELUPE Transport
summer concerts. KTS
SPE £ from Rīga.
PE KTS PRO
PR OS M EŽA
Dzintari RU
LDU
Beach BU
K TS
PE
R OS
D Z I N TA R I A S P BULDURI
U RG
U INB
AR S ED
INT KT
DZ OSPE
PR
LA
S IE
RĪGA
The coastal towns which make up Jūrmala

Morbergs’ Summer
Cottage, built in
are situated among picturesque pine forests.
1883 in Neo-Gothic Strict building regulations preserve the
style, sits amid 19th-century wooden summerhouses and
beautiful gardens. restrict construction in the area.
ships in the late 19th and

early 20th centuries, fish
canning and the local Banga
fishermen’s collective.
E Sea-Fishing Museum
Selgas iela 33. Tel 6326 9594. Open
Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–
May: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
e Dundaga
Road Map C3. * 4,000. @
Reed-filled part of Lake Engure, with boats moored along the shore n Pils iela 14, 6323 2293.
∑ visit.dundaga.lv
w Lake Engure Ornithological Centre, running
Engures ezers through dry pine forest and a First recorded in 1245, Dundaga
chalky grass swamp in which 22 has a restored 13th-century
Road Map C3. 8 for boating:
Abragciems Kempings, 4 km (2 miles)
species of orchid can be found. Livonian Order castle that today
N of Engure, 6316 1668; for fishing Many parts of the lake houses the tourist office.
permits: Ornithological Centre, are choked with reeds The coats of arms of the
Bērzciems, 6947 4420 (open by as a result of pollution last owners decorate
appointment only). ∑ eedp.lv by chemical fertilizers, the tower over the
and a number of fish entrance to the
Latvia’s third-largest lake, Engure species have disap- northwestern section.
is a significant bird habitat. peared, although The Lutheran church
Around 160 species have been fishing permits can nearby has an
spotted in the wetlands, still be obtained at altarpiece by Janis
including cranes and grey the centre. Coat of arms at the Rozentāls (1866–
herons. A road leads around castle, Dundaga 1916). The church’s
the western edge of the lake, Environs 19th-century wooden
between the towns Mērsrags The small fishing port of Roja, organ case is unusual, as it is the
and Engure, while the 26 km (16 miles) northwest work of Latvian craftsmen who
Ornithological Centre on the of Mērsrags, offers more generally produced functional
eastern side of the lake can be accommodation options than items while foreign masters
reached by turning inland just most places on the coastal made decorative pieces.
north of Bērzciems. One bird- route from Rīga to Ventspils. Dundaga features a large,
watching tower is situated close Exhibits in the town’s bizarre sculpture of a crocodile
to the centre, while another is Sea-Fishing Museum (Rojas at the corner of Talsu and
directly opposite it across the jūras zvejniecības muzejs) look Dinsberga streets, honouring
lake. A 3.5-km (2-mile) orchid at the naval schools of Krišjānis local crocodile hunter Arvīds
trail starts close to the Valdemārs (see p195), sailing Blūmentāls (1925–2006). He
emigrated to Australia during
World War II and is said to have
The Coast-Dwelling Livs been the inspiration for the film
A Finnic people related to the Estonians, the Livs settled along the Crocodile Dundee (1986).
Gulf of Rīga around 5,000 years ago, long before the arrival of
the Latvian tribes. They referred to themselves as raandalist (coast-
dwellers) and kalāmīed (fishermen), and the sea has always been
central to their way of life. German
crusaders devastated Livonian culture
in the 13th century and the Livs were
gradually assimilated into the other
Baltic tribes. During the 19th and 20th
centuries, children were educated in
German and later Russian rather than
in Livonian. Many of the remaining Livs
were forced to leave the region when
the Soviets declared the coast a military
zone. Since 1991 there have been
concerted efforts to preserve and
strengthen Liv culture. Today, not
Monument to Livonian Culture more than 200 people are officially
in Mazirbe registered as Livs. Large concrete crocodile sculpture on a bed
of stones in Dundaga
r The Livonian Coast Tips for Drivers

A narrow strip of land running along the edge of the Gulf Tour length: 60 km (37 miles).
of Rīga and the Baltic Sea and dominated by sand dunes Stopping-off points: There are
small guesthouses and campsites
and pine forests, the Livonian Coast is separated from in several of the coastal villages.
the rest of Kurzeme by the Zilie kalni (Blue Hills). It is Booking ahead is advisable.
home to one of Europe’s smallest ethnic groups, the Livs. Road conditions: Conditions can
The coastal route also provides access to some of Latvia’s be difficult once off the main
roads, particularly in poor weather.
most beautiful scenery. It is only a short walk between
fishing villages and attractively secluded beaches.
2 Cape Kolka
The point at which the
Baltic Sea meets
the Gulf of Rīga is
a popular place for
Latvian holidaymakers.
Cape Kolka
3 Vaide
The Museum of Horns is the main 1 Pūrciems White Dune
highlight of Vaide. It showcases the A walkway leads across the
personal collection of a forest Uši dune, while signboards indi
Vaide
warden, formed over decades. cate a Neolithic settlement.
Melnsils
Pitrags
Slītere Ģipka Žocene

National
pe
Park
su
Mazirbe Vidale
Pil
Sīkrags
4 Košrags Slītere Muņi
The typical coastal village
of Košrags is dotted with Jaunciems Kalķi
18thcentury wooden
Neveja
buildings, including a
small B&B.
0 km 7
0 miles 7
5 Mazirbe 6 Slītere Lighthouse

Located in Mazirbe village, Indicating the start of the
the Folk House of the Livs is Slītere nature trail, the
a museum with a collection lighthouse can be climbed for
of old photographs showing Key a view of Slītere National Park’s
ropemaking, leather forests. Inside, there is a display
softening and other daily Tour route focusing on the lighthouses
activities of the Livs. Other road along Latvia’s coastline.
For keys to symbols see back flap Jelgava Palace, the former island winter residence of Ernst Johann Biron
t Ventspils screens. As a Livonian Order

stronghold, it was a self-
Founded in 1290, Ventspils has long been a trading centre contained world complete with
and was a member of the Hanseatic League. In the 18th a dormitory, refectory, chapel
century, war and plague ravaged the city, but it later thrived and meeting hall. Later, the
chapel was used as a Lutheran
as part of the Russian Empire. church, while the building
A hub for Russian oil tankers till recently, Ventspils has served as a prison at various
gained an air of affluence since independence. In order to times from 1824 to 1959. It
limit its reliance on Russia, the city has been spruced up to became the barracks for the
boost tourism. Enlivened by parks, flower beds and fountains, German army during World
Ventspils has a bustling modern centre and a well-restored War I and for Soviet border
guards from 1962 to 1983. The
Old Town. The historic core is best explored on foot and a rooms in which the exhibits are
walk along Ostas Street offers a chance to see bovine laid out bear fragments of wall
sculptures left after the 2012 Cow Parade. paintings from the 15th to the
17th centuries, and there are
also displays of traditional
costumes and jewellery.
The pleasant restaurant on
the premises, Melnais Sivēns Pils
Krogs (see p324), is one of the
best places to eat in the city.
During summer, it is possible
to try archery and, by
arrangement, fire a small
cannon in front of the castle.
Exterior of the 13th-century Livonian Order castle, Ventspils Castle R Russian Orthodox Church
of St Nicholas
E Ventspils Castle 14th century. Devastated by Plosta iela 10. Tel 6362 1616.
Jāņa iela 17. Tel 6362 2031. Open the Swedish army in 1659, the The onion-domed Russian
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 0 castle has been restored many Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
∑ muzejs.ventspils.lv times since. Parts of the red- (Sv Nikolaja pareizticīgo baz-
On the bank of the Venta river, brick gallery in the inner court- nīca) was consecrated in the
this Livonian Order castle is one yard were built as recently as early 20th century. Although the
of the finest in Latvia. Although the 1870s. Neo-Byzantine exterior needs to
it began life as a late 13th- The museum inside the castle be restored, the interior has an
century stone tower, its current recounts its history through excellent collection of icons.
form largely dates from the engaging displays and touch
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R Lutheran Church of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST y VIRAC (Ventspils

St Nicholas
Tirgus 2. Tel 6362 2750. Practical Information
International Radio
Open 9am–4pm daily. Road Map C3. * 44,000. Astronomy Centre)
With a portico at the front and n Dārza iela 6, 6362 2263. Ventspils Starptautiskais
a tower with an obser vation ∑ visitventspils.com Radioastronomijas Centrs
platform, this attractive yellow- Transport Road Map B3. Tel 2923 0818.
and-white church (Sv Nikolaja £ Dzeaizceļnieku iela. @ Open Mar–Nov: 6am–6pm daily. &
Luterāļu baznīca) stands on the Kuldīga iela 5. g Plosta iela 7. 8 call in advance. ∑ virac.venta.lv
old market square. Dating from
1835, it was built in accordance Situated in a former Russian
with the wishes of Tsar Nicholas I. of fishing boats and anchors, and army town, the 1970s military
a Narrow-Gauge Railway. Until installation is believed to
E Seaside Open-Air the 1960s, the steam engine have spied on commu-
Museum linked seaside villages, but now nications between Europe and
Riņķa 2. Tel 6362 4467. Open May– it takes a 1.4-km (0.8-mile) trip the USA for at least a decade.
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 - through Seaside Park. When they left in 1994, the
∑ ventspilsmuzejs.lv Narrow- Russians took the smallest
Gauge Railway: May–Oct: Sat & Sun. dish, leaving the two heavier
The Seaside Open-Air Museum ones, which are 16 m (52 ft)
(Piejūras brīvdabas muzejs) was and 32 m (105 ft) in diameter.
opened in 1954 to preserve The bigger one is the largest
the heritage of Latvia’s fishing radio telescope in Northern
villages, which began to Europe and the world’s
disappear as the Soviet eighth largest.
authorities regarded the shores A combination of size
as areas of military importance. and precision engineering
Buildings were moved from makes the larger dish
their original location and especially valuable to
reassembled here and the site scientists. Guided tours of it
now includes homesteads, begin with the ground-floor
smokehouses, curing cabins, net laboratory. Visitors can climb
sheds and even a large windmill. Water slides and swimming pools at the up to a viewing platform
Traditional crafts are displayed Aqua Park and then step into one of
around the site in summer. the suspended laboratory
There are also large collections Aqua Park pods. The structure was built
Medņu iela 19. Tel 2642 9684. Open by a naval factory in the
May–Sep: 10am–9pm daily. & - Ukraine, and the interiors
LA
Hercogs With three pools, several slides, are reminiscent of a ship.
IE
Jēkabs A
ST
P LO
Russian Orthodox Jacuzzis and saunas as well as a The unmarked road to VIRAC,
Church of
St Nicholas
variety of water playgrounds, the leading past eerily empty
TIRGUS
Aqua Park (Akvaparks) is popular residential buildings, is just

LIE
LĀ
I EL A
P ILS with families. Swimming gear east of an electrical substation
Lutheran Church
of St Nicholas can be rented on site. on the P124. Book in advance
for a guided tour.
L Ventspils Beach
IE L A
AS 2 km (1 mile) S of town. 7
B R ĨV ĨB A S I E LA
L DĨG Bus
KU Station
The residents of Ventspils are
LA
proud of their beach, particu-

UK
RAIŅA
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U
SA
RK
larly the 1.2-km (0.7-mile)
DA ANM
A L E K SA ND R A
MB UIŽ stretch that received an EU

IS AS
Blue Flag in 1999 for meeting
JŪ RA S
IE LA Railway Station
international standards. This was
130 m (140 yards) a remarkable achievement, since
the coast had been contaminated
Ventspils by industrial pollution during
the Soviet era. Parts of the
1 Ventspils Castle beach have been set aside for
2 Russian Orthodox Church of windsurfers, nudists and smokers,
St Nicholas and there are playgrounds for
3 Lutheran Church of St Nicholas children. At the northern end of
4 Seaside Open-Air Museum the beach is a breakwater, with
5 Aqua Park a promenade leading to a Radio telescope at VIRAC, the largest of its
6 Ventspils Beach lighthouse at the end. kind in Northern Europe
u Talsi Kurzeme Duchy (1561–1795),

Road Map C3. * 12,500. @ but viniculture may have begun
n Liela iela 19–21, 6322 4165. long before. In the 1930s, the
_ Mara’s Craft Market Fair (Aug). vineyard was used to experiment
∑ talsitourism.lv with grape varieties, but this
ceased during the Soviet period.
The administrative centre of Work began again in 1989, and
northern Kurzeme and a there are now 650 vines of 15
transport hub for the region, varieties. Wine-tasting is possible
Talsi is an attractive town spread at the annual wine festival.
out around two lakes and across
nine hills. It was originally a Liv Environs
settlement, captured by the Mara’s Caves (Māras kambari),
Kurši during the 10th century, named after an ancient Latvian
and then by the Livonian Order goddess, are 12 km (7 miles)
in 1263. A mound remains southwest of Sabile. In the Middle
where the Order’s castle stood Latvian grape variety Zilga growing at Vīna Ages, these sandstone caves were
on Watermill Hill (Dzirnavkalns). Kalns, Sabile’s renowned vineyard used as a hiding place by bandits.
Talsi’s oldest surviving
building is the 18th-century i Sabile } Drubazas Botany Trail
Lutheran church, atop Church “Drubazas” Abavas pagasts. Tel 2837
Road Map C3. * 3,500. @
Hill (Baznīckalns). The most 0702. Open call in advance. &
n Pilskalna iela 6, 6325 2344.
noted pastor of the church was _ Wine Festival (Jul). ∑ sabile.lv
Karl Amenda (1771–1836), a
close friend of composers A small town on the banks of o Pedvāle Open-Air
Beethoven and Mozart. Nearby, the Abava river, Sabile was first Museum
the cobblestoned Kalēju and mentioned in 1253, by which Pedvāles brīvdabas mākslas muzejs
Ūdens streets are notable for time it had long been inhabited
water troughs. by the Kurši tribe. Only a mound Road Map C4. Strauta 4. Tel 6325
2249. @ Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm
The Talsi Regional Museum remains of the tribe’s castle,
daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. &
(Talsu novada muzejs), housed although the stones were used 8 - ∑ pedvale.lv
in a late 19th-century Neo- to repair the town’s 17th-century
Classical residence, features an Lutheran church, which houses The near-derelict buildings and
interesting exhibition on the Latvia’s oldest bell, made grounds of Pedvāle
Livs. The building’s original in 1450. Manor, a short
painted ceiling can be seen in Just 1 km (half walk uphill from
one of the rooms. a mile) from Sabile, were
Sabile centre is the bought by sculptor
Environs farmstead Drubazas, Ojars Feldbergs in
Laumas Nature Park, 20 km where you can 1991. A year later,
(12 miles) north, has several follow a 2-km they were opened as
walking and cycle paths. Guided (1-mile) guided walk Sculpture, Pedvāle the Pedvāle Open-Air
tours are available, including through forests and Open-Air Museum Museum, one of
one focusing on bees. It also marshes, and vist the Latvia’s most
has a camp site. farmhouse for wine tastings. interesting museums. Scattered
Sabile Wine Hill, Sabiles Vīna around the 100-ha (247-acre)
E Talsi Regional Museum Kalns, is said to be the northern- site are over 150 works by
K Mīlenbaha 19. Tel 2910 2628. most vineyard in the world. The Latvian and international artists.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & - strong and sour wine it produces Many of the artworks are
∑ talsumuzejs.lv was popular in the court of the designed specifically for the
museum during conferences
and workshops. The on-site
ticket office provides a map to
help visitors in their exploration.
Some of Feldbergs’s own work
can be found exhibited in the
attractively decaying estate
buildings at the far end of the
site, while other buildings
have been renovated to
accommodate visiting artists.
The former manor house is
now a guest house open to
Picturesque view of Talsi with a canopy of trees rising behind the public.
Environs
The Riežupe Sand Caves
(Riežupes smilšu alas), 4 km
(2 miles) north of Kuldīga, form
the longest cave system in
Latvia. A quarter of the 2-km
(1-mile) site is open to visitors.
E Kuldīga District Museum

Pils iela 5. Tel 6332 2364.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
s Pāvilosta
Rows of crosses marking the graves of German soldiers, near Saldus
Road Map B4. * 3,000. n Dzintaru
p Saldus capitalize on the river and a land iela 2, 6349 8229. _ Sea Festival (Jul).
Road Map C4. * 11,000. £

route linking Prussia with the Founded in 1879, the small port
n Striķu iela 3, 6380 7443. lower Daugava Valley. town of Pāvilosta was named
In the 16th century, Kuldīga’s after Paul Lilienfeld, Governor of
Set amid scenic countryside, castle was one of the residences Kurzeme from 1868 to 1885.
close to Lake Ciecere, Saldus is of Duke Gothard Kettler and the Tourist activities in Pāvilosta
best known for the Janis town traded with Rīga and revolve around the sea,
Rozentāls Museum of Jelgava. The streets near the including yacht and canoe hire
History and Art (Jaņa attractive old Town hall and trips out in a fishing boat.
Rozentāla Saldus Vēstures Square, running The surrounding area is also a
un Mākslas Muzejs). alongside the popular spot for windsurfing
Rozentāls (see p155), who Alekšupīte river, and is home to the country’s
was born near Saldus, feature 17th- and
first world-class yacht marina,
reconstructed the 18th-century
Pāvilosta Marina.
building in 1900. The timber buildings. Also
The Local History Museum
artist’s home till 1901, it here are a couple of
(Pāvilostas novadpētniecības
is now a museum that attractive churches,
muzejs), located in the town’s
showcases his works. St Catherine’s (Sv
Temporary art exhibi- Katrīnas baznīca) and oldest building, exhibits
tions are housed in the Holy Trinity (Sv everyday items from the region
an adjacent building. Trīsvienības Katoļu and displays about local history
Statue of Janis baznīca). A short walk (in Latvian only).
Environs Rozentāls, Saldus away is the Venta
 Pāvilosta Marina
Vācu Karavīru Kapi, Waterfall (Ventas
7 km (4 miles) south of town, is rumba), the widest in Europe. Ostmalas iela 4. Tel 6349 8581.
∑ pavilostamarina.lv
a war cemetery where German Close by is a 164-m (538-ft) brick
soldiers who died in Latvia were bridge, one of Europe’s longest. E Local History Museum
re-buried in a single place. Overlooking the river is Kuldīga Dzintaru iela 1. Tel 6349 8276. Open
District Museum (Kuldīgas mid-May–mid-Sep: 11am–5pm Wed–
E Janis Rozentāls Museum of novada muzejs), best known for Fri, noon–4pm Sat & Sun; mid-Sep–
History and Art its collection of playing cards. mid-May: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. &
Striķu iela 22. Tel 6388 1547.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm
Sat & Sun. &
a Kuldīga
Road Map B3. * 14,000. @ n
Baznīcas iela 5, 6332 2259. _ Town
Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ visit.kuldiga.lv
With a well-preserved Old Town

and an attractive location
alongside the Venta river,
Kuldīga is one of Latvia’s most
alluring provincial towns. It was
founded in 1242 by the Livonian
Order, who chose the site to Ferries anchored at the harbour in the port town of Pāvilosta
d Liepāja
Although Liepāja was officially declared a town in 1625, it
expanded only in the early 19th century. The deepening of
the ice-free port and the building of a railway link were
followed, in 1890, by the foundation of a Tsarist naval port at
Karosta. Today, Liepāja is Latvia’s third-largest city and it has a
vibrant cultural life. It is dotted with many interesting sights,
most of which are located in its historic core. Many of the
city’s older buildings have been extensively restored. Beautifully carved Baroque altar of
St Anne’s Basilica
R Holy Trinity Church adorned with gilt detailing and R St Anne’s Basilica
Lielā iela 9. Tel 6342 2208. woodcarvings. The centrepiece Veidenbauma iela 1. Tel 6342 2208.
Open 10am– 6pm daily. & is an organ built in 1773 by First documented in 1508, the
donations. Organ recital: Jul: Sat H A Contius, a favourite organ current Neo-Gothic St Anne’s
(call for timings). builder of composer J S Bach. Basilica (Sv Annas baznīca) dates
The modest exterior of the Expanded in 1885, it was the only from the end of the 19th
mid-18th-century Holy Trinity world’s largest organ until 1912. century. The plain interior is
(Svētās Trīsvienības baznīca) Wooden steps lead up the dominated by the huge Baroque
belies one of the finest church clock tower for views. altar, carved for Duke Jakob
interiors in the Baltic region, Kettler (see p139) in 1697 by
House of Craftsmen Nicolas Sefrens. The altar painting
Dārza iela 4–8. Tel 2654 1424. depicts the Passion of Christ in
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. = three panels, with the Crucifixion
With a wide variety of fine at the bottom, the wrapping of
handicrafts on sale, the House his body in the centre and the
of Craftsmen (Amatnieku Ascension at the top.
namiņš) is a place where
one can watch skilled artisans E Occupation Museum
as they weave traditional K Ukstiņa iela 7/9. Tel 6342 0274.
textiles. The world’s longest Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. ^
amber necklace, 123 m (404 ft) The interesting Occupation
long and weighing 60 kg Museum (Okupāciju režīmos)
(132 lb), is also on display, offers an absorbing account of
Details on the exterior of Holy along with photographs the city’s treatment at the hands
Trinity Church documenting its creation. of Nazi Germany and the Soviet
Liepāja Airport
Liepāja LA I VI N I E KU 8 km (5 miles)
KRU
KUGINIEKU
Railway Station KAROSTA

STA
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800 m (875 yards)
LT
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Nevsky Craftsmen
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Union, with copious notes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST f Lake Pape Nature

available in English. Exhibits Reserve
include everyday objects left Practical Information
Papes dabas parks
behind by repatriated Baltic Road Map B4. * 85,750.
Germans at the start of World n Rožu Laukums 5/6, 6348 0808. Road Map B4. Tel 2616 7333.
( daily. _ Piano Star Festival n Buši, Rucava village, 2913 4903;
War II, photographs of people
deported en masse by the (Mar), Summer Sound (Jul), Bārtas iela 6, Nica, 6348 9501. & 8
International Organ Music Festival ∑ pdf-pape.lv
Soviets in June 1941 and an
(Sep). ∑ liepaja.travel
account of the killing of the
city’s Jews and other Transport Just 10 km (6 miles) from the
“undesirables”. k Cimdenieki, Lidostas iela 8. Lithuanian border, the wetlands,
The exhibition ends with a £ Rīgas iela. @ Rīgas iela. pine forests, dunes, grasslands
display about the events leading and coastline of the Lake Pape
up to independence. The offices EU Blue Flag. The long, sandy area make an excellent trip from
of the Popular Front, which was Liepāja Beach (Liepājas Liepāja. Sponsored by the World
based in the building, have been pludmale) is separated from Wide Fund for Nature, the
left intact. Rooms upstairs house the Old Town by the wooded reserve covers around 52,000 ha
an exhibition of antique Seaside Park (Jūrmalas parks). (128,495 acres), and is best
photographic equipment. The nearby streets are lined with known for its savvaļas zirgi
elegant Art Nouveau buildings (semiwild horses) and sumbru
R St Joseph’s Cathedral that used to be summerhouses. ganības (European bison).
Rakstvežu iela 13. Tel 6342 9775. Guided tours, taking around 90
Decorated inside with scenes minutes, are available from the
from the Bible, the yellow St ticket office at the entrance to
Joseph’s Cathedral (Sv Jāzepa the signposted grazing area.
katedrāle) attained its current The reserve is popular with
towering form in the 19th cen birdwatchers, due to its
tury. The congregation needed location on a migration path.
a larger church, but had no land Some 271 species have been
on which to build one, which is sighted here, 15 of which are
why they simply expanded the on the European Red List of
existing building upwards. endangered species. The area
is sparsely populated, although
E Liepāja Museum there are three villages within
Kūrmājas prospekts 16/18. Tel 6342 the reserve. One of them is the
2604. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & duneenclosed settlement of
∑ liepajasmuzejs.lv Pape, home to Vītolnieki, a
Set amid a small sculpture Façade of St Nicholas’s Orthodox branch of the Latvian Ethno
garden, the Liepāja Museum Cathedral, Karosta graphic OpenAir Museum
(Liepājas muzejs) is housed in (see p163).
an ornate early 20thcentury Karosta
building with an impressive 4 km (2 miles) N of town. @ 3, 4, 7. E Vītolnieki
galleried hall. The displays trace ∑ karosta.lv St Nicholas’s Orthodox Pape village. Tel 2926 2283.
local history, with exhibits Church: Katedrāles 7. Military Prison: Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–
including the heads of stone Invalīdu 4. & 8 Sun. 8 by appointment.
cherubs from St Anne’s Basilica, A military harbour built by the
a series of pewter drinking Russians during the late 19th
vessels topped by human century, Karosta was offlimits to
figures and traditional southern civilians. In its heyday, it housed
Kurzeme costumes. Also here 40,000 personnel. Today, it has a
is a reconstruction of the ghosttown feel, with streets of
workshop of the famous huge, unoccupied buildings.
sculptor Mikelis Pankoks (1894– One reason for visiting Karosta
1983), who vanished in 1944 is to see the striking onion
and was presumed dead. He domed St Nicholas’s Orthodox
had fled the country incognito, Cathedral (Sv Nikolaja pareizti
and ended his days in a Swiss cīgo catedrāle), used as a cinema
mental hospital. and gym by the Soviets. The old
Military Prison (Karostas cietums)
L Liepāja Beach is now the Kurzeme region’s
Although the coast here was major tourist attraction, offering
once an environmental disaster a chance to be locked up and
area, it has now been thoroughly yelled at by “guards” for a couple Bird-watching tower at the Lake Pape
cleaned up and proudly flies its of hours or overnight. Nature Reserve
EASTERN LATVIA
The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as
rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
the terrain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two
extensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of
these have well-developed tourist facilities, while others
remain isolated and untouched.
When the German crusaders arrived, best-known writers and musicians. Today
they found the Livs and Lettgallians Vidzeme is second only to Rīga as a
inhabiting the region which now forms travel destination, with the Gauja
Vidzeme, while Latgallians and Selians National Park combining natural beauty
lived further east in what is now Latgale. and historical attractions.
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled
west and east of Vidzeme, while central by Poland until 1772. The Polish
Vidzeme and most of Latgale was influence fostered a strong Catholic
claimed by the Livonian Order. After the tradition, particularly evident in the
collapse of the Livonian Order in 1561 pilgrimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was
the whole of the east fell under later absorbed directly into the Russian
Lithuanian, and later Polish, rule. Empire, unlike other Latvian regions
The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in which were ruled as separate provinces.
1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia This isolation from the rest of the country
and Vidzeme. The Russians conquered means that it has long been neglected
Vidzeme in 1721. Reliant economically as a predominantly Russian backwater.
on agriculture, forestry and wood Despite this, its villages and serene lakes
processing, the region is sometimes charm visitors and the regional capital,
claimed as the cradle of Latvian culture Daugavpils, is slowly shaking off its
as it produced many of the country’s image as a grey Soviet throwback.
Old houses and tower in Cēsis, a town steeped in history
Turaida Castle among the trees of Gauja National Park

Exploring Eastern Latvia

The most popular tourist attraction in Eastern Latvia is Gauja
National Park, which combines beautiful forests with attractions
such as the historic town of Cēsis and the restored Turaida Castle.
A significant part of the region is covered by the North Vidzeme
Biosphere Reserve, famous for its coastal meadows, sandstone
Unguriņi
cliffs and extensive wetlands. The route from Rīga to
Daugavpils, the regional capital, runs along the
Daugava Valley and includes several worthwhile
MAZSALACA
stops, while the cathedral at Aglona is a major AINAŽI a Staicele
centre for Catholic pilgrimage. For most visitors, ac Lake
l
Burtnieks Rencēni
Sa
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its
SALACGRĪVA
me
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and Vilzēni
Drieliņi e
dz
Lubāns, the two largest in the country.
i
V VALMIERA
Sights at a Glance LIMBAŽI Umurga

Jelgavkrasti
o Rēzekne
AL
Towns, Resorts and Villages
a Ludza
N
2 Valmiera DUNTE
O
s Vecpiebalga Vidriži
RK I
3 Ainaži Cēsis
A AT
d Alūksne Skulte
4 Salacgrīva
N
Inciems
5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI JA P
U
6 Limbaži 9 Ikšķile GA
7 Dunte w Koknese ja
Gauja G au Sigulda
8 Saulkrasti f Gulbene–Alūksne Vangaži
0 Lielvārde Nītaure
Railway
q Skrīveri Ķīšezers
Ropaži Mergupe Mālpils
e Jēkabpils National Park
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga
Ķeipene
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93
y Krāslava
Tour Ogre
u Aglona IKŠĶILE
i Preiļi p Latgale Lakes p202 Dau
LIELVĀRDE
gav
a
SKRĪVERI
Taurkaene
Viesīte
Ērberğe
Key
Motorway
Main road
Secondary road
Minor road
Railway
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
E A S T E R N L AT V I A  189
Getting Around
The highlights of Gauja National Park are easily reached
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
that run several times a day. The public transport
network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
towns, but services are not very frequent.
Pe Tartu
d ele
Valka
Pskov
da
Turna S e
Zabolova
Vijciems
G a uja Lāzbergi
Gaujiena
Abul
Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
s
Vireši Liepna
Smiltene G
sa
l
au
Pa Jaunanna Kuprava
ja
Mālumuiža
GULBENE– Viļaka
ALŪKSNE
Ūdrupe RAILWAY Kubuli Balvi
Rauna
Gulbene
ze
pe
Peded
Čilipīne
Balu
a
uj Tirza Medņi
Taurene Ga
Baltinava
Ostrov
Skujene Lake VECPIEBALGA

Inesis Grebņeva
Ogre Bērzpils
Lubāna
Kuja
Lautere
Iča
Lī
ču
Ērgļi Madona Goliševa

Lake
pe
Žogotas
Lubāns
Bērzaune Lazdona Dricāni Aizpūre

Zaļmežnieki
Rēze
Malt
Irši Lake
kne
a
Cirma
L AT G
Lake Istalsna
Odzes
st e LUDZA
iek Grozas
Ai
v Viļāni RĒZEKNE Ņukši
Brigi
KOKNESE
AL
Atašiene
Kūkas
E
Troškas Čornaja
LA
JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši

Nagļi L a Malta
K
Riebiņi S Rāzna
Lake
E
Da
Piksteres Birži ug
av
tg Čerņavski
a LĪVĀNI PREIĻI a Puša Lake
le Ežezers
Du
Viesīte Aglonas Bērziņi

bn
Zalve Stacija Rušons

a
Jersika
Slate Kapiņi Dagda
AGLONA
Nereta Aknīste
Špoği Asūne
Kalupe
Dviete
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
Svente Daugava Piedruja

DAUGAVPILS
Silene
Demene
Utena
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20

1 Gauja National Park Valmiera
Latvia’s first and most popular national park was established

in 1973 and stretches for about 100 km (62 miles) along the Gulf of Cēsis
Rīga
Gauja River Valley. But the area has been attracting tourists to
u ja
its so-called “Alpine trails” since the 19th century. Almost half Ga
Sigulda Area of the
of the 92,000-ha (227,337-acre) park is forested, and it is home map illustrated
to about 900 plant, 149 bird and 48 mammal species. Around L AT V I A

4 per cent of the park forms a closed nature reserve, but the
rest is accessible by road. Canoeing and boating are great Key
ways to see the caves, cliffs and ravines carved out by the river Gauja National Park
since the glaciers receded 12,000 years ago. In addition to its
natural attactions, the area also has some of Latvia’s most
fascinating historic sites (see pp192–3). Lake
Ungurs
Lielstraupe
Inčiems
. Turaida Museum Reserve
The extensively restored Turaida Castle houses historical exhibitions,
while the grounds include outbuildings and a sculpture park.
ja
Gau
Turaida
Sigulda
Ragana
New Castle in Sigulda

This fanciful manor house was built in 1867 near
the ruins of a Livonian Order castle, where there is
now an open-air stage.
Gauja
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Key
Bobsleigh Run
Sigulda offers a rare
Major road chance to experience
Minor road the thrill of a world-class
Other road
bobsleigh run at a
reasonable price. In
Railway line summer, a slower,
Park boundary wheeled vehicle is used.
. Līgatne
Education and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Recreation Centre
Inside the park,
Road Map D3. n Gauja
footpaths and tracks
National Park Visitors’ Centre,
for vehicles wind
Turaidas iela 2a, Sigulda, 2665
past spacious
7661. 8 guided canoe trips
enclosures housing
organized by Campo in Rīga (2922
animals, including
2339), Makars in Sigulda (2924
elk, brown bears and
4948).  ∑ entergauja.com
European bison.
Transport
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
Cēsis
Raiskums
Cīrulīši
Lake
Āraiši
Drabeši
Kārļi
Am
. Cēsis
at
Once the seat of the German

a
Skaļupe
Gaujasmala Zvārte Rock crusaders, Cēsis is a romantic town
with a lakeside park.
leriķi
Līgatne
Līgatn
e
Augšligatne
Zvārte Rock, a
35-m (115-ft) high Lake Āraiši
sandstone outcrop, boasts Archaeologists found the remains of a fortress on the lake bed
excellent views. It is locally here. This reconstruction of it offers a glimpse into Latgallian
believed to be a haunt of life in the 9th and 10th centuries.
witches and demons.
The Rose of Turaida

According to a popular legend, in 1601 a young
orphan girl found in the aftermath of a battle
between the Swedish and Polish armies was
named Maija and raised in Turaida Castle. She fell
in love with Viktor, a gardener from Sigulda Castle.
One day a deserter from the Polish army
lured Maija into the nearby Gūtmaņa Cave under
false pretences, but she tricked him into killing
her rather than surrendering her chastity. The
so-called grave of the Turaida Rose in the Turaida
Museum Reserve is considered a romantic spot Gravestone of the Turaida Rose, the
for newlyweds. beautiful Maija

Exploring Gauja National Park extensively restored. Plaques

help visitors to understand the
The park follows the Gauja River Valley as it flows southwest site, while exhibitions inside
from Valmiera. Road access to the park is good, with the A2 deal with the history of
and A3 running alongside. The most convenient access points the castle and illustrate the
restoration process. Near
from Rīga are Sigulda, where the park information office is the museum entrance are the
located, and Cēsis. In addition to hotels and guesthouses remains of the Turaida estate,
along the major routes and close to the tourist sites, the park as well as a working smithy
includes a network of 22 campsites. They are arranged along and exhibitions on farming
the Gauja, Amata and Brasla rivers, making canoeing an and woodcraft.
appealing way to see the area. The stretch between Sigulda Close to the castle is the
Turaida Church. Built in 1750, it
and Cēsis is particularly attractive. is one of the oldest wooden
churches in Latvia. Outside is a
Sigulda memorial to the Turaida Rose
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga. (see p191) and tucked away
n Train station, Ausekla iela 6, behind the church is the Folk
6797 1335. ∑ sigulda.lv Song Park (Dainu kalns), where
A spacious town set in scenic 25 sculptures celebrate the
woodland, Sigulda is a centre work of Krišjānis Barons (see
for outdoor activities and is p155). Nature trails lead down
also a good base for visiting slopes from the park.
Krimulda and Turaida. After
the Brotherhood of the Sword Cēsis
subdued the Liv population 35 km (22 miles) NE of Sigulda.
in 1207, they gave the valley’s £ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
right bank to the Bishop of Rīga n Pils laukums 9, 6412 1815.
and built their own castle on ∑ tourism.cesis.lv
the left bank. The Brotherhood, Cable car carrying visitors from Sigulda Museum of Art and History: Pils
renamed the Livonian Order, to Krimulda laukums 9. Open May–Sep: 10am–
6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–
lost the town to the Poles in
Sun. & inc New Castle. 8 =
1562, and it passed between now a rehabilitation centre
the Poles and Swedes for for children, with a café and One of the oldest towns in
150 years until it was taken by basic accommodation. Latvia, Cēsis has winding streets
Russia in the Great Northern lined with attractive wooden
War (1700–21). + Turaida Museum Reserve and stone buildings. It was once
The castle ruins are tucked 6 km (4 miles) N of Sigulda. @ from an important trading centre,
away behind the 19th-century Sigulda. Tel 6797 2376. Open May– becoming a member of the
New Castle (Jaunā pils) and Oct: 9am–8pm daily; Nov–Apr: Hanseatic League in 1383.
its fine gardens. Close by is 10am–5pm daily. & 8 5 11am Sun. The town served as the
a Lutheran church and the - = ∑ turaida-muzejs.lv headquarters of the Brothers
impressive viewpoint called The Turaida Museum Reserve of the Sword, and later the
Artists’ Hill (Gleznotāju kalns). mainly consists of a castle and Livonian Order, for much of the
Paths run through the woodland a group of outbuildings. period between 1237 and 1561.
to Satzele Castle Mound, once a Turaida Castle was built by the In 1577, Ivan the Terrible took
Liv fortress, and Peter’s Cave on Brotherhood of the Sword in Cēsis. Further damage was
the bank of the Vējupīte river. 1214. It was left in ruins after a inflicted during the Great
fire in 1776 and has since been Northern War and the town also
Krimulda
@ from Sigulda.  from Sigulda
9am–5pm Mon–Fri. n 6797 2232.
8 - ∑ krimuldaspils.lv
The Bishop of Rīga had a castle
built in Krimulda after taking
control of the right bank of the
Gauja Valley in 1207. Krimulda
Castle (Krimuldas pils) was
destroyed by the Swedish army
in 1601, and little remains of
the ruins. It is easier to spot
the nearby 19th-century
Neo-Classical manor house
(Krimuldas muižas pils). It is The Cēsis castle complex contains some of the most impressive ruins in the Baltic States
Picturesque view of the wooden dwellings of Āraiši Lake Fortress
witnessed extremely fierce Lake Āraiši, now reconstructed Y Līgatne Education and
fighting during the War of as a tourist sight. A wooden Recreation Centre
Independence (1918–20). platform holds 16 single-room 15 km (9 miles) NE of Sigulda. @ from
The Cēsis Castle complex is the dwellings with log walls and bark Cēsis. Tel 6415 3313. Open May–Sep:
town’s major attraction. Visitors roofs. Each of them could 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat &
are given builders’ accommodate three Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
helmets and lanterns for to eight people. A clay ∑ visitligatne.lv
the tour of the 15th- to stove was used for A wooded nature park, Līgatne
16th-century towers of heating and cooking, Education and Recreation Park
the 13th-century Old while a small structure (Līgatnes mācību un atpūtas
Castle. The pink New to the right of each parks) is home to the likes of
Castle, built in 1777, is doorway was used brown bears, lynx, beavers, elk
home to the Museum for storage or to and European bison. Large
of Art and History keep cattle. enclosures are connected by
(Cēsu vēstures un Sign, Līgatne Education Today, guides in 5.5 km (3.4 miles) of walking
mākslas muzejs). The and Recreation Centre costume re-create the trails and a 5-km (3-mile) route
highlight is the well- atmosphere of the for vehicles. The site includes
presented “Treasures of Cēsis” settlement, and a dugout boat a 22-m (72-ft) viewing tower,
exhibition. Cēsis Exhibition House can be hired. Back on shore is a horse-riding facilities, spots
(Cēsu izstāžu nams), a renovated ruined Livonian Order castle and for campfires and several car
18th-century coach house, several reconstructed Stone, parks. Dogs are not allowed
stands on the square in front of Bronze and Iron Age dwellings. on the trails.
the New Castle. To the north, the
Castle Park is a popular place to
relax in the summer, while the The Latvian Flag
Old Town is to the southeast of According to tradition, the Latvian
the castle. national flag was born in Cēsis around
Other attractions include the 1280. The story goes that warriors from
19th-century Cēsis Brewery, one of the Latvian tribes wrapped their
although the beer is now brewed dying chieftain in a white flag, which
outside the town. they had captured from their Estonian
enemies. After giving a stirring speech,
+ Āraiši Lake Fortress the chieftain died and the warriors
10 km (6 miles) S of Cēsis. Tel 6410
removed the flag from his body to find
7080. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
that his blood had left two red stripes
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & 8
on it; the white stripe in the middle was
where he had lain. The warriors took the
Tales of sunken castles are new flag into battle and defeated their
common in Latvian folklore, enemies. The present-day version of the
appearing to stem from the flag was designed by artist Ansis Cīrulis
9th- to 10th-century Latgallian in May 1917. The Museum of Art and
practice of building settlements History in Cēsis has an exhibition Latvian flag hoisted on the New
on islets. In 1965, archaeologists dedicated to the Latvian flag. Castle, Sigulda
found one such settlement in
tower for a view of the city. Fire-fighters’ Museum (Ainažu

Just beyond the church lie ugunsdzēsības muzejs).
the ruins of the Livonian Exhibits in the main building
Order castle and the Museum include hand-operated water
of Local Studies (Valmieras pumps, uniforms and insignia,
novadpētniecības muzejs). The while the garage displays fire
museum covers local history trucks. The museum staff are
and hosts exhibitions. Close by former fire-fighters.
is the city’s oldest wooden
building, a former pharmacy E Naval College Museum
built in 1735. Valdemāra iela 47. Tel 6404 3349.
Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun;
Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
R St Simon’s Church
Bruņinieku iela 2. Tel 6420 0333. E Fire-fighters’ Museum
Forlorn remains of the Livonian Order castle Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. Valdemāra iela 69. Tel 6404 3280.
in Valmiera Open May–Sep: 10am–4pm Tue–Sat,
E Museum of Local Studies
10am–2pm Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm
2 Valmiera Bruņinieku iela 3. Tel 6422 3620.
Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat.
Road Map D3. * 30,000. £ from
Rīga. @ from Cēsis. n Rīgas iela 10,
6420 7177. _ Winter Music Festival
(Jan), City Festivities (Aug), St Simeon’s 3 Ainaži
Fair of the Middle Ages (Oct), Road Map D2. * 1,800.
Christmas Market (Dec). @ from Cēsis. n Valdemara iela 49a,
∑ visit.valmiera.lv 6404 3241. ∑ salacgriva.lv
Once a Hanseatic League Close to the Estonian border,

member, Valmiera was founded Ainaži occupies a crucial place
in 1283 and has a distinguished in Latvia’s maritime history. For
history of trade due to its centuries, the coastline was
position on the Gauja river. sparsely inhabited, justifying the
Today, it is the second-largest town’s name, which is derived
city in Vidzeme after Rīga, but its from the Livonian word ainagi Striking snowcapped Liv Sacrificial Caves
Old Town was devastated in meaning “solitary”. However, by near Salacgrīva
World War II. Most sights of the 19th century, it had
interest are clustered together become an important fishing 4 Salacgrīva
beside the river, just east of the centre, and in 1864, was chosen Road Map D3. * 6,000. @ from
city’s main roundabout. by Krišjānis Valdemārs as the Rīga. n Rīgas iela 10a, 6404 1254.
The 13th-century St Simon’s location for his naval school, _ Positivus Music Festival (Jul).
Church (Sv Sīmaņa baznīca) which closed only in 1919 ∑ tourism.salacgriva.lv
has been destroyed several during the civil war. The original
times and its current appear- school building is now the Positioned at the mouth of the
ance dates from 1739. The Naval College Museum (Ainažu Salaca river, the fishing port of
altarpiece shows a depiction of jūrskolas muzejs), which displays Salacgrīva officially became a
the Temptation of Christ by photographs, documents, town in 1928. There is evidence
Christiana Vogels-Vogelstein. model ships and a collection of that German traders may have
Visitors can climb the church anchors. Ainaži also boasts the visited the Salaca before reaching
the Daugava river. Salacgrīva is a
good jumping-off point for
exploring the area nearby.
Environs
On the banks of the Svētupe
river, 10 km (6 miles) east of
town, are the Liv Sacrificial
Caves (Lībiešu upurala). Coins
and artifacts dating from the
14th to the 19th centuries have
been found here, and there are
runes carved into the walls.
The Randu Meadows (Randu
pļavas), about 8 km (5 miles)
north of Salacgrīva, are rich in
Nautical objects displayed in the garden of the Naval College Museum, Ainaži birdlife and rare plants.
5 Mazsalaca
Road Map D2. * 1,200. @ from
Rīga. n Rūjienas iela 1, 2837 4774.
∑ mazsalaca.lv
This sleepy town has little to

detain visitors, except for the
Mazsalaca Regional Museum,
with its unusual collection
of woodcarvings on a Satanic
theme by Valters Hirte. It is
an ideal base, though, for
exploring nearby attractions,
such as the spookily named
Werewolf Pine and Devil’s
Caves, 2 km (1 mile) from town,
where the spring water is said
to have healing powers.
Skaņaiskalns (Sound Hill),
a sandstone cliff southwest
of Mazsalaca, is noted for its
echoes. It can be reached via a
park full of wooden sculptures,
which can be viewed on the
drive through, but are better
seen on foot. The 2-km (1-mile)
path begins at the Valtenburg
manor house (now a school) on
Parka Street.
E Mazsalaca Regional Museum The Orthodox Church in Limbaži, dating back to the early 20th century
Rīgas iela 1. Tel 6425 1781.
Open May–Oct: 11am–4pm Wed– Limbaži’s stone castle, built display of artifacts that recount
Sun; Nov–Apr: 11am–4pm Tue–Thu. by the Brotherhood of the the region’s history. Close by is
Sword in 1223, served as the 1903 Orthodox Church,
the Archbishop of Rīga’s which still retains some of its
residence. A town grew up original splendour. A statue of
around the castle and formed Kārlis Baumanis, composer of
part of the Hanseatic League. the national anthem, stands in
The castle, now in ruins, was Jūras Street.
destroyed in the 1602 Polish-
Swedish War. E Museum of Regional Studies
Offering tours of the castle Burtnieku iela 7. Tel 6407 0632.
ruins is the Museum of Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sat;
Regional Studies (Limbažu Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
muzejs), with its fascinating 8 for castle. =
Carved wooden soldiers in the park leading
to Skaņaiskalns, Mazsalaca
Krišjānis Valdemārs
6 Limbaži One of the key figures of the Latvian National
Road Map D3. * 9,200.
Awakening, Krišjānis Valdemārs (1825–91) was
@ from Rīga. n Torņa iela 3, 6407
a writer, educationist, political thinker and
ideologist. During Valdemārs’s time the majority
0608. ∑ visitlimbazi.lv
of Latvian literary works were written by Baltic
Although it is one of Latvia’s Germans, and he sought to change this. From
oldest towns, Limbaži has 1862 until its suppression in 1865, Valdemārs
edited a Latvian-language publication, Pēterburgas
retained little of its prosperous
Avīzes, alongside Krišjānis Barons and poet Juris
past. The area, which was Alunāns, which criticized the Baltic German sense
known during the 13th of cultural superiority. He encouraged Barons and
century as Metsepole (Indriķis Fricis Brīvzemnieks to start a Latvian folk songs
in Latvian), was one of three collection (see pp28–9), and was instrumental
Liv territories mentioned in the in establishing the Ainaži Naval College, where Valdemārs’s bust,
early 13th-century chronicle tuition was free and not dependent on social status. Naval Museum
written by Henry of Livonia.
House set amid idyllic scenery reflected in one of the many clear-water lakes near Dunte
7 Dunte guesthouses along the main 9 Ikšķile

Road Map D3. * 2,890. @ from road. Nonetheless, it remains a Road Map D3. * 6,250.
Valmiera. popular getaway for Rīga £ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
residents. The main activity is
Pretty and close to the coast, walking along the coastline, In the mid12th century, the
Dunte is known for the and a trail stretching for 4 km Augustinian monk Father
Münchausen Museum (2 miles) has several viewing Meinhard, the first Bishop of
dedicated to Karl Friedrich points, including a platform on Ikšķile, accompanied German
Hieronymus von Münchhausen the White Dune (Baltā kāpa). merchants along the Daugava
(1720–97). An officer in the The privately river. He built
Russian cavalry, Baron Münch owned Bicycle St Mary’s Church
hausen married a local woman Museum here, the first church
and visited Dunte on his (Saulkrastu in the territories of
honeymoon. He became unwit velosipēdu muzejs) Latvia’s tribes. The
tingly famous when a collection is housed in a large local Livs resisted
of fantastical stories featuring shed in the owners’ being converted to
him was published anonymously garden. The superb Christianity and
in 1781, and his association with collection, a work of Meinhard made little
exaggeration continues to this many years, features headway. The church
day. Museum staff dress in oddities such as a Cycle badges at Bicycle was the first stone
period costumes, and one room wooden bicycle Museum, Saulkrasti building in the
is a fanciful reconstruction of his made by an aero Baltics, and its ruins
wife’s boudoir. A screen shows a plane engineer. There are also have been covered with a metal
1943 German film adaptation mockups of a repairs workshop roof to protect them from the
of his tales. Upstairs are wax and a shop of bicycle parts. elements. Following the
works of famous Latvians. construction of a hydroelectric
E Bicycle Museum dam on the river, the ruins
E Münchausen Museum Rīgas iela 44a. Tel 2888 3160. stand on an island, although
Duntes Manor. Tel 6406 5633. Open Open call in advance. & there is nothing much to see.
May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm
Sat & Sun); Nov–Apr: 10am– 5pm Sat
& Sun, by appt Wed–Fri. & 8 =
8 Saulkrasti
Rīga. @ from Rīga. n Ainažu iela 13b,
6795 2641. _ Town Festival (Jul),
International Jazz Festival (Jul), Organ
Music Festival (Aug). ∑ saulkrasti.lv
A seaside resort since the

19th century, Saulkrasti is little
more than a string of homes and Ruins of St Mary’s Church in Ikšķile, one of Latvia’s earliest churches
0 Lielvārde Andrejs Pumpurs and Lāčplēšis

Rīga. n Edgara Kauliņa aleja 20, 6505
Born in Birzgale, close to
3759. _ Regional Festival (Jul), Lielvārde, Andrejs Pumpurs
Birthday of Andrejs Pumpurs (Sep). (1841–1902) was an unlikely
∑ lielvarde.lv literary figure. Working on
the land before volunteering
The town of Lielvārde is best to fight in Serbia against the
known as the site of the climactic Ottoman Empire in 1876, he
battle between the heroic became a loyal officer in the
Lāčplēšis and the Black Knight. Russian army but was also a
staunch promoter of Latvian
The conflict ended when the two Mural of Lāčplēšis and Laimdota at the Andrejs
culture. Convinced of the
warriors disappeared into the Pumpurs Museum
need for a national epic, he
Daugava river close to an early chose the folk story of
13th-century castle, the ruins of Lāčplēšis the Bear Slayer, whose mixed animal-human parentage is
which stand on a hillock. Tall evident in his bear-like ears. Pumpurs also drew from Latvian folklore to
wooden sculptures nearby create a strongly allegorical plot filled with demons and witches.
illustrate Lāčplēšis’s story, while a Lāčplēšis defeats the Estonian giant Kalapuisis and convinces him of the
pair of large stones are said to be need to work together against their foreign foes. Towards the end of the
the bed and blanket of the hero, epic, Lāčplēšis unites the Latvian people and repels the invaders, but the
who reputedly returns to the wicked turncoat Kangars reveals the hero’s secret – his strength is in his
bank each night to sleep. ears. The Black Knight, a Germanic giant, cuts off Lāčplēšis’s ears,
Also close to the river is the plunging Latvia into 700 long years of misery. The story goes that
Andrejs Pumpurs Museum Lāčplēšis will rise again after he defeats his rival.
(Andreja Pumpura muzejs),
dedicated to the eminent writer.
A small display is devo- Upīša memoriālmajā), w Koknese
ted to Lielvārdes josta. which draws visitors inte- Road Map D4. * 3,000. £ from
These belts, used in tradi- rested in Latvian litera- Rīga. @ n Melioratoru iela 1, 6516
tional weddings, are for ture. The exhibition about 1296. _ International Folk Music
sale at the museum. the noted author, critic Festival (Jul). ∑ koknese.lv
At the western end of and Communist polemi-
town is Uldevena Castle cist is displayed in his Once the main settlement
(Uldevena pils), a former home. The Tree of the Selonian tribe, which
reconstruction of a Park (Dendroloğiskais was subjugated by the
wooden Liv fortification. parks) close to Skrīveri is Livonian Order in 1208,
It was built in 1997 to the a pleasant, peaceful Koknese also appears in the
design of a local artist place to wander, its tale of Lāčplēšis as the home
and takes elements paths running through of Laimdota – the beautiful
from other structures, forests made up of and virtuous young woman
thus representing an Wooden sculpture almost 400 species of with whom the hero falls in
“ideal” rather than a of Lāčplēšis tree from around the love. Today, the picturesque
single castle. world. Each one has ruins of the Livonian Order
been tagged with both its castle, built in 1209 but
E Andrejs Pumpurs Museum Latvian and Latin names. destroyed during the Great
E Kauliņa aleja 20. Tel 6505 3759. Northern War (1700–21),
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: E Andrejs Upīts Memorial makes Koknese popular with
11am–3pm Sun). & 8 Museum visitors. The site was even more
Daugavas iela 58. Tel 6519 7221. attractive before a hydro-
+ Uldevena Castle
Open mid-May–Oct: 10am–5pm electric power station was built
Parka iela 3. Tel 2946 5792. Open Apr– Tue–Sun. & ∑ upisamuzejs.lv on the Daugava river in 1965.
Nov: 10am–6pm Thu–Sun. & 8
q Skrīveri
Rīga. n A.Upīša iela 1, 2837 3530.
∑ skriveri.lv
Although the town has a long

history, Skrīveri was devastated
during World War I. Its main
attraction is the Andrejs Upīts
Memorial Museum (Andreja Livonian Order castle with the Daugava river in the distance, Koknese
During the post-war era, the

Soviet regime built large bio-
chemical and construction faci-
lities, many of which became
obsolete after independence.
Recent efforts to improve the
town’s fortunes include the
establishment of the Latgale
Art and Craft Centre, which
hosts exhibitions, besides con-
ducting ceramics and weaving
workshops for visitors.
E Glass Museum
Domes 1b. Tel 6538 1855. Open Jun–
Neo-Byzantine St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church in Jēkabpils Aug: Tue–Sun; Sep–May: Tue–Sat. &
= ∑ latgalesamatnieki.lv
e Jēkabpils and one of them displays E Latgale Art and Craft Centre
Russian military memorabilia. Domes 1. Tel 6538 1855.
Road Map D4. * 28,000.
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga,
Open Tue–Sat. & 7 =
R St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church
Daugavpils. n Brīvības iela 140/142,
Brīvības iela 202. Tel 6522 3886.
6523 3822. ∑ jekabpils.lv
E Mans’s Gallery t Daugavpils
Founded as a settlement for Old Brīvības iela 154. Tel 6523 1953. Open See pp200–201.
Believers (see p126), Jēkabpils 9am–6pm Mon–Sat. ∑ manss.lv
received town rights from Jakob
E Selian Farmstead
Kettler, Duke of Courland (see
Filozofu iela 6. Tel 6522 1042.
p139), in 1670.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,
y Krāslava
In the town centre, the Neo- 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & Road Map E4. * 11,500. @ from
Byzantine St Nicholas’s Ortho-
+ Krustpils Castle
Daugavpils. n Pils iela 2, 6562 2201.
dox Church (Sv Nikolaja ∑ visitkraslava.com
pareizticīgo baznīca) was built Rīgas iela 216b. Tel 6522 1042.
in 1910. Close by, the large Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, Attractively set alongside the
private Mans’s Gallery was one 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr: Daugava river, the town of
of the first to open in post- 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat Krāslava is largely composed of
& Sun. ∑ jekabpilsmuzejs.lv
Soviet Latvia. East of the centre, two-storey wooden buildings.
the Selian Farmstead (Sēļu Although there are few specific
sēta) is an open-air museum sights to draw visitors, it is a
with 19th-century buildings, r Līvāni pleasant place to visit.
including a farmhouse, a smithy Road Map E4. * 11,000. £ Standing on an artificial hill,
and a windmill. n Domes iela 1b, 6538 1856. the 1750 Baroque Krāslava Castle
On the opposite side of the _ Town Festival (Jul), International (Krāslavas pils) houses the
Daugava river lies the 13th-cen- Folk Festival (Sep). ∑ livani.lv Krāslava Museum, dedicated
tury Krustpils Castle (Krustpils to local arts and history. The
pils). Destroyed during the With a long history as an indus- Catholic Church (Katoļu baznīca)
Livonian Wars (1558–83), it was trial centre, Līvāni takes pride in stands on the town’s other hill. It
reconstructed in 1585 and mod- its glass factory, which opened is the finest of the Baroque build-
ified in 1849. Though the castle in 1887. The on-site Glass ings in Latgale. Its imposing
is largely dilapidated, several of Museum (Stikla muzejs) offers fresco, depicting St Ludovik leav-
its rooms have been restored, glass-blowing demonstrations. ing for the Crusades, was painted
Krāslava town, with rows of pretty houses along the Daugava river
by the Italian artist Philippo of the family’s three manor hous the Latgale region and also
Kastaldi in the 18th century. es still stands but is in poor con serves as a good base for
dition. In the gatekeeper’s house, visiting the area’s lakes.
E Krāslava Museum the History and Applied Arts The bestknown sight is
Pils iela 8. Tel 6562 3586. Open Museum (Preiļu vēstures un Latgales Māra, a statue created
10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, lieņtišķ mākslas muzejs) has by Leons Tomašickis, which
10am–2pm Sun. & exhibits including old photo stands in the centre of a large
graphs of Preili and samples of roundabout on Atbrīvošanas
the pottery for which it is Avenue. The religious icono
renowned. More local ceramics graphy of the statue depicting
can be found – and bought – at the pagan goddess Māra
the P Čerņavskis Pottery holding aloft a Christian cross
Workshop-Museum may be ambiguous but the
(P Čerņavska keramikas darbnīca politics are not: the plinth
muzejs). The late 19th simply reads “Vienoti
century Roman Catholic Latvija” (“United for
Church (Romas katoļu Latvia”). Unveiled in
bazīca) contains an 18th 1939, it commemorates
century crucifix, and two the 1917 meeting in
sculptures stand out Rēzekne which decided
side; one is dedicated that Latgale would no
Dazzling exterior of the majestic to Mother Latvia and longer remain a part of
Aglona Basilica the other is a monument Russia’s Vitebsk province.
to the politically Jug, Latgale Culture and Removed by the
u Aglona repressed during the History Museum Russian authorities in
Soviet regime. 1940, the statue was
Road Map E4. @ from Rīga.
n Somersetas 34, 6532 2100. reinstated by the occupying
E History and Applied Arts German army. Destroyed in
_ Feast of the Assumption (15 Aug).
Museum 1950, the statue was rebuilt by
Catholic pilgrims from across Raiņa 28. Tel 6532 2731. Tomašickis’s son after Latvia
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri, gained its independence in
the Baltic region and Russia
10am–4pm Sat. &
flock to this otherwise unre 1991. The inauguration of the
markable town to visit Aglona E P Čerņavskis Pottery replica took place in 1992.
Basilica and attend the Feast Workshop-Museum Just north of the statue is
of the Assumption. Lithuanian Talsu iela 21. Tel 2942 9630. the Latgale Culture and
members of the Dominican Open by appointment. History Museum (Latgales
Order were invited by a local R Roman Catholic Church kultūrvēstures muzejs), which
landowner to build a monastery Tirgus laukums 11. Tel 6532 2041. focuses on the ceramics of the
and school in 1697. The basilica, Open by appointment. region, including traditional
then a church, was built in the branched candelabra. South of
18th century. Pope John Paul II the statue, on a small mound
declared it a basilica in 1980, o Rēzekne with excellent views of a
marking the 200th anniversary Road Map E4. * 37,000. £ from
Catholic church, are the ruins
of its completion, and visited Rīga. @ from Daugavpils. n Krasta of the city’s castle.
it in 1993. The basilica is famous iela 31, 6460 5005. ∑ rezekne.lv
for its early 17thcentury icon E Latgale Culture and
of the Virgin Mary, brought by Although most of its old History Museum
the Dominicans and said to buildings were destroyed Atbrīvošanas aleja 102. Tel 6462 2464.
have healing powers. It is during World War II, Rēzekne is Open May–Sep: Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr:
hidden behind a lesser icon, one of the cultural centres of Tue–Sat. &
which slides down only during
special services.
i Preiļi
Rīga. n Kārsavas iela 4, 6532 2041.
∑ preili.lv
From about 1475 until 1866, the

market town of Preiļi was under
the control of the Borgh family,
who were originally from
southern Italy. The most recent Exhibits displayed inside the History and Applied Arts Museum, Preiļi
t Daugavpils u Synagogue
Cietokšņa 42. Tel 6542 0092.
The second-most populous city in Latvia, Daugavpils is often Open by appointment.
regarded as a “Russian city” as the majority of its residents are Prior to World War I, over half
Russian. Its history can be traced to 1275 and a Livonian Order of the town’s population was
Jewish. There were at one time
castle called Dinaburga. In the 16th century, a settlement
48 synagogues, of which only
grew on the banks of the Daugava river, and was occupied by one remains in use. It was
Poles, Russians and Swedes at various times. When the town renovated in 2006 with the
was developed into a Tsarist fortress in the early 19th century, help of Mark Rothko’s children,
civilians were relocated southeast to the land that today who had visited it in 2003, the
forms the city centre. An industrial hub for the erstwhile centenary of their father’s birth.
Soviet Union, Daugavpils has suffered from economic neglect R Cathedral of Sts Boris
since independence, though the city’s image is improving. and Glebe
Tautas iela 2. Tel 6545 3544.
This blue-and-white building,
resplendent with its ten golden
cupolas, is the largest Russian
Orthodox cathedral in the
country. Built in 1905, it is
named after the two saints on
whose feast day the Russian
army entered Daugavpils in
1656. The Russian name for the
town, Borisoglebsk, was also
taken from the saints’ names.
The icons and frescoes inside
were copied from those in
Sophia Cathedral in Kiev, Russia.
R Church of the Birth of

the Mother of God
Puškina 16a. Open services only. ^
A solid pink structure with
Stately exterior of the Museum of Regional Studies and Arts diminutive blue domes, this
Old Believers’ (see p126) church is
E Museum of Regional BC to the present day, but rarely open to the public. Visitors
Studies and Arts focusing on the period may, however, be able to look
Rīgas iela 8. Tel 6542 4155. between the second half of inside during services, when
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 the 18th century and 1918. candles are lit in front of the icons
= ∑ dnmm.lv Paintings by the city’s second- that line the walls. The solemn
Housed in an attractive build- most famous artist, Leonīds chanting of the congregation
ing dating from 1883, this Bauļins, occupy one room, adds to the atmosphere.
museum is dedicated to local while other rooms document
history from the 9th century regional flora and fauna.
Mark Rothko (1903–70)

The artist Mark Rothko was born Marcus Rothkowitz into a Jewish
family in Daugavpils at a time when the Russian Empire was scarred by
pogroms. His family emigrated to Portland,
Oregon, USA, in 1913. He received a
scholarship to study at Yale University, but
left after two years and trained in art in New
York. Rothko changed his name in 1940, and
by 1950 he had developed a unique style, in
which soft-edged rectangular forms are
aligned in front of coloured backgrounds.
They are described as Abstract Expressionist,
although Rothko himself insisted that he
was interested in pure form. Following
Mark Rothko, Abstract an aneurysm and the breakdown of his
Expressionist marriage, Rothko committed suicide in 1970. Beautiful interior of the Cathedral of
Sts Boris and Glebe
Road Map E4. * 110,000.
n Rīgas 22a, 6542 2818.
∑ visitdaugavpils.lv
Transport
£ Rīgas iela. @ Viestura iela 10.
T Daugavpils Fortress
Cietokšņa iela. Tel 6542 4043. Open
24 hours. 8 Mark Rothko Art Centre:
Mihaila iela 3. Tel 6543 0279. Open
11am–5pm Tue & Sun, 11am–7pm
Wed–Sat. & ∑ rothkocenter.com
The construction of this walled
Russian fortress began in 1810
but was interrupted when
Napoleon’s army attacked in July
1812. The moat encircling it once
contained tunnels that con-
nected it to the Daugava river,
but they have since been
blocked. The fortress served as
a German concentration camp
and was later occupied by the
Soviet Army until 1993. The Mark
Rose-coloured façade of Church of the Birth of the Mother of God Rothko Art Centre, located in
the former arsenal building,
R Martin Luther Church R Virgin Mary Catholic provides space for exhibitions
18 Novembra iela 66. Tel 2957 4349. Church and displays original works
Open Sun or by appointment. A Pumpura 11a. Open evening mass. by the world-famous artist,
This redbrick, Neo-Gothic According to local legend donated by his children. Guided
church dates from 1893 but has the daughters of a rich tours and maps are available
been completely renovated. merchant drowned in a lake from the renovated water tower
During the Soviet regime, it was on the spot where the church that now houses the fortress’s
used as a boxing gym. now stands. culture and information centre.
Daugavpils 0 metres 500
0 yards 500
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2 Synagogue
3 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe
4 Church of the Birth of the Mother
A S IELA
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p Latgale Lakes
Latvia’s relatively hilly southeastern corner, known as the
Latgale Uplands (Latgales augstiene), is covered with a
patchwork of many lakes. On a sunny day it is easy to see
why this part is called the Land of Blue Lakes. Unfortunately,
public transport is limited here, although if time permits the
area can be explored by bus. The route also passes through
Rēzekne, where the tourist office can provide advice on
activities such as angling and bird-watching in the area, and
a trip to Ludza en route is also possible.
Lake Lubāns, one of Latvia’s favourite
spots for bird-watchers
8 Lake Lubāns 6 Musical Instruments

One of the best places for Workshop, Gaiglava
bird-watching and Visitors can watch
fishing in the I ča artisans at work
country, this is and learn to
Latvia’s lar- Īdeņa
play traditional
gest lake by instruments.
Lake
surface area. Lubāns
Ma
Žogotas
lta
Dricāni
7 Teirumnīki Nagļi
A boardwalk Ivgolova
circles the lake and
Kantinieki
runs through a
swamp where Rēzekne
Ludza 5 Rēzekne
cranberries grow. Rēzekne The cultural centre of
Skastagals
Latgale, Rēzekne is
Janopole
known for its
Balbiši
statue of pagan
goddess Māra.
Višķeri Lake
Kaunata
Rāzna
Zosna
Lipuški
4 Lake Rāzna
The largest in Latvia by
3 Mākoņkalns volume, Lake Rāzna Andrupene
Cloud Hill, at 248 m (814 ft), is a offers a number of
Andeņi Lake
popular viewpoint, with ruins decent accommo-
Ežezers
of a castle on the summit. dation options.
Dagda
2 Lielais Liepukalns
Key
At 289 m (948 ft), this hill is the 0 km 10
Tour route highest point in the region and
the third-highest in the country. 0 miles 10
Other road
Tips for Drivers

1 Lake Ežezers
Starting point: Lielais liepukalns.
Translated as
Length: 114 km (71 miles).
“Hedgehog Lake”,
Stopping-off points: Rēzekne is
Lake Ežezers is
an ideal stop. It is possible to stay
considered one of
at Ežezers, Rāzna and Lubāns.
the most beautiful
Driving conditions: Avoid
lakes in Latgale. Its
driving around the western edge
36 islands can be
of Lake Rāzna in bad weather.
explored by boat.
a Ludza with Ernst Glück (1654–1705), a

German Lutheran clergyman
Road Map E3. * 10,500. £ @
n Baznicas 42, 2946 7925. ( who was the first to translate
_ Ludza Town Festival (Aug). the Bible into Latvian. His home
has been turned into the Ernst
Perhaps the oldest town in Glück Museum of the Bible.
Latvia, Ludza traces its foun The Museum of Local Studies
dation back to about 1177. The and Art is housed in a manor
central square is home to the house built in 1861 for Baron
tourist information office and Vietinghoff. There are displays
the Orthodox Cathedral. on local history, arts and crafts,
The Handicrafts Centre and the museum can also
(Ludzas amatnieku centrs), close arrange excursions.
to the central square, has a
potter’s kiln and space for E Ernst Glück Museum
artisans. Visitors can participate of the Bible
in workshops by prior arrange Statue of Liena, heroine of Mērnieku laiki, Pils 25a. Tel 6432 3164. Open May–
ment. Handicraft objects are on in Vecpiebalga Oct: Tue–Sat; Nov–Apr: by
sale here as well. There is also a appointment. &
monthly food and crafts market. It occupies the summerhouse
The town’s Museum of Local of revolutionary writer Kārlis
History (Ludzas novadpētniecības Skalbe (1878–1945). Further fGulbene–Alūksne
muzejs) occupies the former villa along the road is the Janskola
of Jakov Kulnev (1764–1812), a Museum, housed in the former Narrow-Gauge
Russian war hero who lived in home of composer Emīls Railway
Ludza. The grounds contain late Dārziņš (1875–1910). The Road Map E3. Tel 6447 3037.
19th and early 20thcentury displays include works by _ Railway Festival (first Sat in Sep).
wooden buildings from various Latvian poet Janis Sudrabkalns ∑ visitgulbene.lv
parts of Latgale. (1894–1975).
This 33km (21mile) stretch
E Handicrafts Centre E Kaudzīte Brothers of railway track constitutes the
Tālavijas iela 27a. Tel 2946 7925. Open Memorial Museum only functioning narrowgauge
Mon–Sat. ∑ ludzasamatnieki.lv Kalna kaibēni. Tel 2618 5382. Open railway within Latvia. The
midMay–midOct Wed–Sun. & 90minute journey has stops
E Museum of Local History
Kulneva iela 2. Tel 6572 3931. en route, including Stāmeriena,
Open Mon–Sat. & which has a manor house,
d Alūksne and Umernieki.
Road Map E3. * 9,500. £ from
The Ates Mill Museum is the
s Vecpiebalga Gulbene. @ from Cēsis. n Pils 25a, primary incentive for visiting
Road Map D3. * 4,000. @ 6432 2804. ∑ visitaluksne.lv Umernieki. Around the mill
n 2611 0724. ∑ vecpiebalga.lv is an ethnographic museum,
In 1342, the Knights of the consisting of 13 buildings
With a history dating back to Sword built a castle on an island which have been brought from
the early 14th century, this in Lake Alūksne, after destroying around Vidzeme.
small town is famed as the the existing fortress. The
home of prominent cultural Swedish army demolished the E Ates Mill Museum
figures. Notable among them castle in 1702 rather than let it Ate, Kalncempji village. Tel 2940 0393.
were the brothers, Reinis fall into Russian hands. Alūksne Open Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: closed Sun).
(1839–1920) and Matīss is best known for its association & 7 _ Harvest Festival (Sep).
Kaudzīte (1848–1926), who
wrote Mērnieku laiki (The Times
of the Land Surveyors). Among
the bestloved Latvian novels,
it is based on the sale of a
landlord’s estates to peasant
farmers. The authors’ home is
now the Kaudzīte Brothers
Memorial Museum.
Environs
There are other interesting sites
close to Vecpiebalga. The Kārlis
Skalbe Museum is about 4 km
(2 miles) from the town. Soviet-era steam engine locomotive at Gulbene railway station
LITHUANIA
Lithuania at a Glance 206–207

A Portrait of Lithuania 208–211
Lithuania Through the Year 212–213
The History of Lithuania 214–219
Vilnius 220–251
Central Lithuania 252–271
Western Lithuania 272–289
206  LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Lithuania at a Glance
An unblemished natural landscape of rolling hills, Lithuania
ESTONIA
is blessed with thousands of lakes that create a complex
network of streams and rivers. In this low-lying, post-glacial
countryside, almost all the land lies at less than 200 m (656 ft) LAT VIA
above sea level. The eastern half of the country is known as

the “highlands” and the western half the “lowlands”. The main LITHUANIA
features of the Lithuanian coast are its fascinating sandy

dunes and beaches. Despite Lithuania’s tumultuous history,
many of the country’s fine historic buildings have survived.
Hill of Crosses
(see p277)
Mažeikiai Naujoji
Skuodas Akmenė
Joniškis
Kuršėnai
Palanga Telšiai
Plungė Šiauliai
WESTERN LITHUANIA
(see pp272–89) Radviliškis
Klaipėda Rietavas
Kelmė
Priekulė
Palanga (see p286) is a
popular beach resort that Šilalė
draws hundreds of visitors
each summer. Once a quiet Šilutė
Raseiniai
little fishing hamlet, today
it is a vibrant place filled Tauragė
with innumerable
bars and cafés.
Jurbarkas
Šakiai
0 km 25
0 miles 25
Marijampolė
Kalvarija
Parnidis Dune towers over

the fishing village of Nida,
on the Curonian Spit (see
pp288–9). Views from the
summit take in both the
Baltic Sea and the Curonian
Lagoon and stretch
southwards to Kaliningrad.
Farm on the shore of the Nevis river at the archaeological site of Kernavė
L I T H UA N I A AT A G L A N C E  207
Kernavė (see p258) is a

UNESCO World Heritage Site,
set in the Neris River Valley.
Once the capital of the
Grand Duchy of Lithuania, it
is now one of the largest
archaeological sites in the
Baltic region. The state
museum, established here in
1989, was converted into a
cultural reserve in 2004.
Biržai
Pasvalys
Rokiškis
Pakroujis
Kupiškis
Zarasai
Panevėžys
Vilnius Cathedral (see
pp228–9), a Neo-Classical
structure, houses the
Ramygala lavish Baroque Chapel
Utena of St Casimir and a
CENTRAL LITHUANIA crypt that provides an
(see pp252–271) Ignalina insight into Lithuania’s
Kėdainiai
complex history.
Ukmergė Molėtai
Jonava
Pabradė
Kaunas
VILNIUS
(see pp220–251)
Birštonas Vilnius
Trakai
Alytus
Merkinė
Trakai Island Castle (see pp256–7), in the

picturesque village of Trakai, is a fairytale fortress that
makes a beautiful day-trip from the capital during
Pažaislis Monastery any season of the year. An optional trip by yacht or
(see p265) rowing boat rounds off the experience.
A PORTRAIT OF LITHUANIA  209
A PORTRAIT OF
LITHUANIA
The largest of the three Baltic States and one of the hidden jewels of Europe,
Lithuania takes pride in its relatively secluded landscape of clean lakes, ancient
forests and coastal dunes. The capital, Vilnius, which has a UNESCO-protected
Old Town, combines the romance of its breathtaking Baroque architecture with
the modern trappings of 21st-century Europe.
Lithuania successfully repelled Germanic teeming with wildlife. Excellent roads

invaders as early as 1410 at the Battle of wind through attractive villages and
Grünwald. In the subsequent centuries, towns that are remarkably tranquil. A
however, the country experienced a resurgence in the popularity of folk
tumultuous series of invasions. Most culture is colouring every corner of the
recently, the two world wars and the country, with wooden crosses, altars
massacre of one of Europe’s largest and shrines being crafted and folk
Jewish communities were followed by song and dance traditions being
the neglect of the Soviet era. explored. An explosion of printed and
Since its independence in 1991, electronic materials in Lithuanian, a
Lithuania has strived to restore its language related to Sanskrit, has taken
national identity. Vilnius possesses one place since the Singing Revolution
of Europe’s finest Old Towns, with (1987–90). At the same time, Lithuania
several Baroque masterpieces. Across is forging a positive political and
the country, areas of serene natural cultural role for itself in the expanded
beauty have become protected reserves European Union.
A sweeping view of Parnidis Dune, or the Great Dune, in the Curonian Spit National Park
Façade of Rokiškis Manor House, embellished with Neo-Baroque details
210  INTRODUCING LITHUANIA
Despite its pagan past, Lithuania has

a strong Catholic identity that sets it
apart from Estonia and Latvia, where
the Germans introduced Lutheranism.
The efforts of the Soviet authorities to
stamp out religious worship by
converting churches into warehouses,
cinemas, art galleries and museums,
destroying their interiors and depor ting
large numbers of priests to Siberia,
failed. As a result, only 10 per cent
of the people do not identify with any
religious group today. Religious groups
other than Catholics include Russian
Catholics worshipping the Virgin Mary in Vilnius Orthodox (5 per cent) and small
communities of Old Believers
Ethnic and Religious Identity and Lutherans.
Lithuania is the most ethnically
homogeneous of the Baltic countries. Politics
By staying largely agrarian it managed to Since regaining independence in 1991,
stem the incoming tide of large numbers Lithuania has vacillated between left-
of Russians and other nationalities whom and right-wing governments, while
the Soviet authorities wanted to man the struggling to find its feet on the
new factories being built across the Baltic international stage. Achieving the
region. Of its population of 3 million, goals of NATO and EU membership in
84 per cent are Lithuanian, while only 2004 was of huge significance for the
5.8 per cent are Russian and 6.6 per cent Baltic region, wrenching it away from
Polish. Other minorities include Russia’s influence. The impeachment of
Belarusians and Ukrainians, as well as a President Rolandas Paksas for violating
small group of Tatars and Karaim. In Vilnius, the constitution, also in 2004, was the
the most ethnically diverse city, Russian climax of a wave of public scepticism in
and Polish can commonly be heard. politics. High-profile corruption cases
A Lithuanian folk dance group dressed in national costume

A P O R TA I T O F L I T H UA N I A  211
farms have been turned into

attractive countryside farmsteads
providing tourist activities
and accommodation.
Modern Life
The countless art galleries
in the cities and towns reveal
the importance of art and
culture to Lithuania. The walls of
most households are adorned with
real paintings and graphics rather
Lithuanian president Dalia Grybauskaitė at a meeting in Vilnius than framed reproductions.
Cultural figures, such as M K
revealing how politicians have lobbied Čiurlionis and adored novelist and
on behalf of business interests in painter Jurga Ivanauskaitė, have
exchange for money have created apportioned their skills to more than
the feeling that moral leadership in one medium. Symphonies, chamber
Lithuania is waning. Some politicians, concerts, classical ballet and opera
however, including current, two-time are performed regularly throughout
president Dalia Grybauskaitė, remain the country. On the stage, the dark,
untainted by scandal. post-industrial version of Hamlet, by
acclaimed theatre director Eimuntas
Economy Nekrošius, is one of the most popular
The Lithuanian economy is one of theatrical pieces.
the fastest-growing in Europe. A In sport, Lithuania has produced
dynamic private sector feeds strongly achievers such as the discus-thrower
on niche industries including laser Virgilijus Alekna and ice-dancer
optics and biotechnology, as well as Margarita Drobiazko, but basketball
core industries such as construction remains its national obsession. While the
and energy. Lithuanian laser and Kaunas-based Žalgiris team and Vilnius-
biotech companies are among the based Lietuvos Rytas team dominate the
strongest in Europe. Lithuania’s largest domestic scene, the Lithuanian Olympic
company by turnover is the Mažeikių basketball team has put the country on
Nafta oil refinery near Mažeikiai. The the world sporting map.
Soviet-era Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant
has been decommissioned, but a new
nuclear power plant is likely to be
constructed to reduce reliance on
Russian energy.
Agriculture was rapidly privatized
following independence, and then
heavily subsidized once Lithuania
joined the European Union. Although
this has made much of the land more
productive, negative results include large
swathes of abandoned land and wide-
spread rural poverty. However, ways are
being found to invest in sustainable
industries such as tourism. Many small High-energy Euroleague basketball match
LITHUANIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
Lithuanians celebrate a host of festivals of the country’s events, and it ranges from
where traditional events and folk culture classical, jazz and blues to electronic and
blend with ancient pagan and Catholic contemporary. Christmas is usually white
rituals. Most of the year’s events take place but the thick snows fail to thwart the
in summer, when after months of wintry merrymaking, which culminates in
gloom the country comes alive with music, New Year’s Eve celebrations. A number
dance, cinema, folk culture, handicraft and of commemorative days are observed in
food festivals. Music is at the centre of most addition to the traditional annual events.
Summer
The sultry Lithuanian summer
initiates great festivities. Classical
music takes precedence in the
warm evenings, along with jazz
and blues.
June
Cow-Swimming Festival,
Aukštaitija National Park.
A quirky custom where locals
dress in folk costumes and
watch as cows wearing
wreaths are led into a lake
to swim to the other side.
Kaziuko Crafts Fair, held every year to mark St Casimir’s Day Medieval Festival, Trakai.
Knights’ fights with swords
May and battleaxes are the
Spring New Baltic Dance (early May), festival’s highlight.
Lithuanians welcome spring Vilnius and Klaipėda. This Joninės (24 Jun). The summer
with joyful celebrations. The eclectic event celebrates modern solstice is celebrated all over
warmer weather wakes the dance and theatre. Lithuania on St John’s Day.
country up to a new season Poetry Spring, Vilnius. An It is also known as Rasos,
of fairs and festivals. international poetry festival and meaning “of the dew”, for
the most outstanding annual dew’s healing properties.
March literary event in Lithuania. Pažaislis Music Festival (Jun–
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (4 Mar), Kaunas City Day (late May). A Aug), Kaunas. Hosted at the
Vilnius. A feast of traditional folk art fair with concerts, fun- Baroque Pažaislis Monastery, it
arts and crafts marking fairs and fireworks. stages music performances.
St Casimir’s Day, with stalls
selling all manner of curios. July
Cinema Spring (late Mar– Christopher Summer Festival
early Apr), Vilnius. One of the (Jul–Aug), Vilnius. A hugely
largest international film enjoyable musical fiesta with
festivals in the Baltic region, it performances at different
showcases the best foreign- venues all over the city.
language films of the year, most Statehood Day (6 Jul). Pomp and
with English subtitles. ceremony are the hallmarks of this
national holiday dedicated to the
April coronation of King Mindaugas.
Garso Galerija, Vilnius. Varniai Blues Nights features
A festival of new electronic blues and jazz performers with
music, often featuring radical the isolated Lake Lukštas as
international songwriters. the backdrop.
Kaunas Jazz (late Apr). One of Sea Festival (late Jul), Klaipėda.
the best international jazz Local folk dressed in traditional costume, The freedom of the seas
festivals in the country. Kaunas City Day festival expressed in a carnival.
LITHUANIA THROUGH THE YEAR  213
Vilnius Jazz (mid-Oct). Jazz,

blues and swing are per formed
by talented contemporary
Lithuanian musicians and
singers at this festival.
Winter
Lithuania looks stunning in winter
as it is often covered in a blanket
of snow. However, the chill does
not curb the festive spirit.
November
Scanorama (mid-Nov), Vilnius.
Guards at the Presidential Palace in Vilnius, on Statehood Day Scandinavian films take over the
capital’s multiplexes for this
August September annual 10-day film festival.
Christopher’s Guitars, Vilnius. Mushroom Festival (late Sep),
A festival featuring classical Varėna. A traditional festival December
guitar and flamenco concerts dedicated to mushrooms Christmas (24–26 Dec). The
as its highlight. that includes the Lithuanian festivities culminate in most
Mėnuo Juodaragis (late Aug). Mushroom-Picking homes with a 12-course meat-
Translated as “Black Horned Championship. free meal on Christmas Eve.
Moon”, this annual musical Fire Sculptures Festival Christmas Day is celebrated with
event of folk, metal and (21–23 Sep). Straw figures are mass in church, and concerts.
electronica is held in a different set alight at night in this festival New Year’s Eve (31 Dec).
location every 3 years. that honours Grand Duke Celebrations and parties take
Capital Days (late Aug–Sep), Gediminas and also celebrates place throughout the country,
Vilnius. A multi-art event during the autumn equinox. and at the stroke of midnight
which Gedimino Avenue is fireworks light up the sky.
flooded with crafts and food October
stalls, while the squares of Sirenos Theatre Festival January
central Vilnius become rock (Oct), Vilnius. Works by Epiphany (6 Jan), Vilnius. Shortly
and pop music venues. international and local artists after New Year, a colourful pro-
are showcased. cession of the Three Kings graces
International Festival of the streets of the Old Town.
Autumn Modern Dance (early Oct),
Autumn, which is from mid- Kaunas. A festival of free-style February
September to December, is a contemporary dance, it attracts Užgavėnės (mid-Feb). People
visual treat. However, there are the best dancers from all over throughout Lithuania don
fewer annual events. the world. masks of witches, devils, goats
and other creatures and feast on
heartwarmingly rich food in this
farewell to winter.
Public Holidays
Independence Day (16 Feb)
Restoration of
Independence (11 Mar)
Easter (Mar/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Midsummer’s Day (23 Jun)
Joninės (24 Jun)
Statehood Day (6 Jul)
Assumption Day (15 Aug)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Musicians jamming at the Vilnius Jazz festival
THE HISTORY OF
LITHUANIA
Europe’s last pagan stronghold, Lithuania rose as a powerful state by the late 14th
century, surviving until the 16th century. It was thereafter subjugated first by the
Poles and then the Russians. The long periods of occupation endured by the
country stirred a reawakening of national identity in its people. An independent
republic, briefly created during the inter-war era, was finally established in 1991.
At the start of the 13th century, of Lithuania (see pp216–17), led by a

Lithuanian tribes, such as the dynasty established by Gediminas
Samogitians in the west and (r.1316–41). The crusaders
Aukštaitiai in the east, began to occupied the Grand Duchy for
unite in the face of regular 100 years, until they were finally
incursions by Germanic crusaders. and decisively defeated at the
The brutal attacks grew with Battle of Grünwald (Žalgiris) in 1410
increasing intensity before the 13th-century seal of the by the powerful allied armies of
resolutely pagan Samogitians Germanic crusaders Lithuania and Poland.
vanquished the Knights of the
Sword at the Battle of the Sun in 1236. Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
Grand Duke Jogaila (r.1362–1434) married
The Lithuanian Grand Duchy Jadwiga of Poland in 1386 and accepted
Duke Mindaugas (r.1235–63), who was Christianity, which led to mass baptisms
rapidly adding territory to his base in throughout Lithuania in the ensuing years.
Aukštaitija, united the tribes in
1240, crowning himself king in
1253. His acceptance of
Christianity to appease the
crusaders enraged the
Samogitians, who murdered him,
took over his land and reverted to
paganism. By the beginning of
the 14th century, large numbers
of crusaders returned from the
Middle East and joined the fight
against the pagan Grand Duchy Impression of the Union of Lublin by 19th-century artist Jan Matejko
King Mindaugas (c.1203–63)

1236 Samogitian 1253 Duke
victory at the Mindaugas 1386 Lithuania 1392 Grand Duchy of
Battle of the Sun crowned and Poland Lithuania reaches the
unite Black Sea
1200 1300 1400 1500
1240 Duke 1410 Battle of Grünwald

Mindaugas 1316 Accession 1382 Crusaders (Žalgiris) destroys the
unites Lithuania of Gediminas seize Samogitia Teutonic Knights
THE HISTORY OF LITHUANIA  215
The marriage formed a Polish-Lithuanian hand, were deprived of all political rights as
alliance that endured for centuries. This well as the right to own land, while the
proved particularly effective as peasants were forced to become
a bulwark against enemies in serfs, subject to severe punishment
the West and in the East. if they attempted to flee.
Under Grand Duke Vytautas The 17th century was a
(r.1401–30), Lithuania was able disastrous period for Lithuania, with
to extend its reach between misrule in Warsaw, plague and fires
the Baltic and the Black seas. in Vilnius and a calamitous invasion
Throughout the first half of by the Russians in 1655. Governed
Portrait of Grand Duke Vytautas
the 16th century, however, a on a tile by a string of ineffective rulers and
militant Russia compelled a noblemen who were either
stronger union between Lithuania and deliberately divisive or simply uninterested
Poland, cemented at the Union of Lublin in in state affairs, the steadily weakening
1569. The Commonwealth that resulted Commonwealth became, throughout the
lasted for over 200 years. 18th century, little more than a puppet state
to Tsarist Russia. In a series of partitions in
Decline of the Commonwealth 1772, 1793 and 1795, the vast lands of the
When King Sigismund Augustus (r.1548–72) Commonwealth were divided between
died without an heir, the combined Russia, Prussia and Austria, despite brave
position of Grand Duke of Lithuania and armed resistance by Lithuanian patriots.
King of Poland became an elected one, One such failed uprising was led by Jokūbas
chosen by the all-powerful nobility. Warsaw, Jasinskis (1761–94). By 1795, with the final
midway between the old capitals of Vilnius partition of the Commonwealth, Poland and
and Kraków, became the base. Stefan Lithuania had ceased to exist.
Bathory (1533–86) was one of the
most successful of these elected
heads of state. Apart from founding
Vilnius University, he also introduced
sweeping military and judicial
reforms. During the Livonian Wars
(see p37), he successfully led a
decisive campaign against the
Russians, regaining control over
Livonia in 1582.
Under the Commonwealth, Poland
established its hegemony, with the
Poles dominating the Lithuanian
nobility. The bourgeoisie, on the other Russians paying tribute to Stefan Bathory in a painting by Jan Matejko
1569 Union of Lublin creates Polish-

Bronze doors of the Vilnius
Lithuanian Commonwealth University library
1579 Vilnius’s academy assumes the
1772 First partition of 1795 Final partition of
status of a university
the Commonwealth the Commonwealth
1600 1700 1800
1568 Jesuits 1793 Second Partition of the

found an 1655 Russian Commonwealth
academy army
in Vilnius sacks Vilnius
Coat of arms, Polish-
Lithuanian Commonwealth
The Grand Duchy of Lithuania

Founded in the 13th century by King Mindaugas and TALLINN VELIKIY
Baltic NOVGOROD
strengthened further by Grand Duke Gediminas in the Sea RĪGA TVER
MOSCOW
14th century, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania reached its VILNIUS Polatsk
greatest territorial extent under Vytautas the Great. Minsk Bryansk
Brest
Originally a defensive military union, the Duchy quickly CRACOW
Chernigov
Lutsk Kiev
started expanding eastwards and southwards, eventually Bratslav
Poltava
stretching across much of present-day Belarus and Ukraine. MOLDAVIA

KINGDOM
The Duchy was dominated in Vilnius by a military class that OF HUNGARY Black Sea
later became a privileged nobility. Vilnius flourished as the Key

capital of culture and architecture. Grand Duchy under Vytautas
The Battle of Grünwald

Nothing quite symbolizes the Grand
Duchy at the height of its achieve
ments like Jan Matejko’s masterpiece,
painted in 1878. Vytautas the Great is
shown at the centre, victorious in the
Battle of Grünwald (Žalgiris) against
the Teutonic Knights in 1410. The
Knights were decisively defeated by
the combined armies of the Grand
Duchy and Poland, led by Vytautas
and King Jogaila, respectively.
Grand Duke Gediminas (1275–1341)

extended the Duchy’s borders, moved
the capital to Vilnius and built a
powerful chain of defensive fortresses.
Albert II Radvila (1595–1656), who
was descended from a long line of
influential nobles, effectively ruled
the Grand Duchy as Grand
Chancellor of Lithuania within the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
Grand Duke Vytautas (1350–1430),

shown here in a 17th-century portrait,
is today revered as a national hero.
Under his reign, the Grand Duchy grew
to its greatest geographical extent,
covering swathes of land between the
Baltic and Black seas.
Surviving the Centuries

Artifacts found during excavations of the remains of the Royal
Palace in Vilnius include decorative tiles, coins and exquisitely
crafted jewellery. While the tiles and coins date from the 16th
century, some of the jewellery dates back to the 14th century.
The collection is likely to go on display once the newly
reconstructed palace is completed.
Tile, 16th century Coin, 16th century
Vilnius University, which the

Jesuits had founded as an academy
in 1568, was upgraded to a
university 11 years later by Stefan
Bathory (1533–86), the Grand Duke
of Lithuania and King of Poland.
The icon of the Virgin Mary at the

Gates of Dawn in Vilnius is a fine
example of religious painting from
the period. It was originally painted
on oak panels in the 1620s.
Grand Duke Vytautas The first book printed in the

Lithuanian language was
Catechism (1547) by Martynas
Mažvydas. Appearing in the
Duchy at a time when Polish
was the preferred language of
the aristocracy, the book had a
great appeal for the pagan
rural masses.
The Christianization of Lithuania took place in

1387, following the union of Lithuania and
Poland. However, unlike the dramatic mass
conversion depicted in this 19th-century painting
by Jan Matejko, many parts of Lithuania remained
pagan into the 16th century.
which involved a conscious

eradication of all traces of traditional
Lithuania. Catholic churches were
converted to Orthodox ones and
Lithuanian-language books in the
Latin alphabet were banned.
However, language and identity were
kept alive by smuggling books in from
East Prussia as well as the printing and
circulation of the first Lithuanian-
Napoleon’s Grand Army crossing the Nemunas river in 1812 language newspapers, Aušra (Dawn)
and Varpas (Bell).
Tsarist Russian Rule
More than 120 years of occupation followed Nationhood Regained, and Lost
the break-up of the Commonwealth, with As the chaos of World War I and the 1917
most of the land once governed by the Revolution weakened Russia, an elected
Grand Duchy of Lithuania now absorbed council in Vilnius declared Lithuanian
into the Russian Empire. Resistance independence on 16 February 1918.
constantly simmered under the surface, International recognition was slow in
however, and hopes of independence were coming. In October 1920, Józef Piłsudski
revived when Napoleon marched through (1867–1935), the nationalist head of state of
Kaunas and Vilnius in June 1812. Poland, which had also regained
These hopes were crushed six its independence in 1918, sent
months later when the an army to occupy Vilnius. The
demoralized, half-frozen remnants Lithuanian government was,
of the French Grand Army retreated therefore, forced to re-establish
from Moscow through Vilnius. itself in Kaunas. Vilnius was
When a rebellion led mainly by indisputably Lithuania’s
the rural nobility failed in 1831, historical capital, but by now,
repressive measures were launched almost half of the city’s
such as the closure of Vilnius population was Jewish, and the
University and the enforced use of other half consisted of Polish-
Russian in Lithuanian schools. Even speakers. Kaunas was declared
harsher oppression followed President Antanas Smetona Lithuania’s temporary capital
another rebellion in 1863, with over (r.1926–40) and remained so until 1939. An
100 of the resistance leaders hunted element of pride was restored
down and hanged, while others were when Lithuania snatched control of Memel
deported with their families to Siberia. The from a caretaker French garrison in early
Russification of the whole country followed, 1923 and renamed it Klaipėda.
1812 Napoleon’s 1832 Russians close 1918 Lithuania

advance and down Vilnius Dr Jonas Basanavičius, one of the declares
disastrous retreat University signatories of the Lithuanian independence
Independence Act
1815 1855 1895
1863 Lithuanian 1866 Ban on Lithuanian-language books in

1831 Rebellion rebels persecuted the Latin alphabet; 40 years of book-
against by Russia smuggling from East Prussia begins
Tsarist rule
The Republic of Lithuania

In 1988, encouraged by the greater
openness of Soviet premier Mikhail
Gorbachev’s reforms, a group of
intellectuals founded the Sąjūdis
movement to rally popular support for the
demonstrations that had begun the previous
year. The response was immediate. Peaceful
protests increased and, on 11 March 1990,
Lithuania declared its independence, the
first of any of the Soviet republics to do so.
In January 1991, Soviet tanks and troops
Adolf Hitler entering Klaipėda in 1939 stormed the Vilnius TV Tower, killing
14 unarmed civilians and injuring 700.
Independent Lithuania was led, between In August 1991, the failure of the
1926 and 1940, by the authoritarian Antanas hardliners’ putsch in Moscow finally gave
Smetona. For Lithuanians, this was a time of Lithuania freedom. The first presidential
growing prosperity as agricultural exports elections brought Algirdas Brazauskas to
boomed. However, they were also uneasy power. Several years of economic hardship
years, as the resurgent powers of Germany followed. Lithuania’s EU and NATO
and Russia loomed on either side. Klaipėda membership in 2004 has brought the
was retaken by the Nazis in 1939 and the country far greater security and prosperity.
Red Army occupied the rest of Lithuania It also adopted euro in 2015.
following an ultimatum from Moscow in
1940. The Red Army carried out mass
deportations and horrific massacres. The
reign of terror continued under the Nazis,
who, in June 1941, launched Operation
Barbarossa, the code name for Germany’s
invasion of the Soviet Union. An estimated
200,000 people, most of them Jews, were
taken outside virtually every town and city
to be executed. In 1944, as part of its Baltic
Offensive, the Red Army pushed back
through Lithuania. Over the next 10 years,
between 120,000 and 300,000 people were
deported to the Siberian Gulags. A brave,
but futile, partisan war was fought from the
Lithuanian forests until the early 1950s. A Lithuanian independence rally in 1989, Kaunas
1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact places 1990 Declaration

1988 Sąjūdis of independence
Lithuania under Soviet control
movement
1941 Nazi Operation
founded 2004 Lithuania joins NATO;
Barbarossa launched becomes member of EU
1935 1975 2015
1944 1955 Partisan war 2015 Lithuania

1926 President Soviets against Soviet adopts the euro as
Smetona reoccupy occupation dies away its national currency
seizes power Lithuania 1991 Bloody assault
on Vilnius’s TV Tower
Vilnius’s TV Tower
LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION  221
VILNIUS
Whether viewed from one of the hills that overlook the Old Town or
from one of the many pavement cafés with tall spires rising all
around them, Vilnius is unmistakably a city of great beauty. The
Old Town, on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1994, blends
Gothic and Neo-Classical styles with a breathtaking late flourish
of Baroque. Vilnius is in itself an architectural monument.
The character of Vilnius, the Lithuanian rebuild the city resulted in the rich
capital, has been retained partly because offshoot of the Baroque style that is
of its isolated location. Yet, the ebb and typical of its architecture today.
flow of history has given it a more Vilnius regained its status as the
multicultural feel than the country’s capital of Lithuania in 1918, but only
other cities. for a year. Occupied by Poland, with
The earliest written reference to Vilnius Lithuania’s government forced to
exists in a letter from Grand Duke relocate to Kaunas, it declined in
Gediminas in 1323, inviting citizens from economic importance until the
towns in Germany to settle here, Soviets invaded it in 1939. World War II
pledging freedom from taxes and devastated Vilnius and annihilated
granting other rights. Pagan Vilnius most of its Jewish population, but
sustained many attacks during the under the ensuing Soviet occupation
Northern Crusades, yet by the 14th the city expanded.
century it had become the capital of an Vilnius has been transformed from a
empire that stretched from the Baltic Sea sleepy backwater to a lively, modern
to the Black Sea. Vilnius was reduced to European capital that provides a
the status of a provincial city in the wonderful setting for shopping, dining
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, but and nightlife. However, with Vilnius
following a period of devastating wars, University, Town Hall Square and several
invasions and fires between the early carefully restored churches, the city has
17th and mid-18th centuries, efforts to retained its charm.
Colourful mural by Antanas Kmieliauskas decorating the ceiling of Vilnius University’s bookshop, Littera
Bronze doors of Vilnius University Library
Exploring Vilnius
Although its Old Town is one of the largest in Europe, Vilnius is a
surprisingly compact city that can easily be explored on foot.
Two of the best places to begin a tour of
the Old Town and its Baroque treasures
are Vilnius Cathedral in the north and
the Gates of Dawn in the south.
S
Gedimino Avenue, the main
G AT 1 6 -O S IO
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NŲ
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Sights at a Glance LY
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p Orthodox Church of St Nicholas , State Jewish Museum
f Church of St Casimir . Holocaust Museum
h Church of the Holy Spirit ! KGB Museum
j Church of St Theresa
Sights of Interest
x Church of St Nicholas
c Franciscan Church 1 Vilnius University
v Dominican Church 3 Presidential Palace s Town Hall Square

b Church of St Catherine 6 House of Signatories g Basilian Gate
9 Cathedral Square k Gates of Dawn
Museums and Galleries 0 Lower Castle z Artillery Bastion
4 Vilnius Picture Gallery q Upper Castle m Radvila Palace
7 Šlapelis House Museum r Hill of Three Crosses / Frank Zappa Statue
VILNIUS  223
Key
Place of interest
Pedestrian street
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BAZI
LIJON DA Getting Around
Ų GA M
TV Ė
Walking is the best way to explore the Old
Bus Station Railway Station
660 m (720 yards) 550 m (600 yards) Town. Cycling is another popular way of
Vilnius International Airport getting around the area. Bicycles can be
6 km (4 miles) rented from the tourist office in the Old Town.
Outlying sites, such as the TV Tower and
Puškin Museum, can be reached by bus or
trolleybus, but others, for example Verkiai Palace,
are more easily reached by car or taxi.
Street-by-Street: Pilies Street and

Vilnius University Applied Arts
Museum lies inside
Narrow lanes, hidden courtyards and some of the Old Town’s finest the Old Arsenal.
architecture make Pilies Street and nearby Vilnius University a delight to
stroll around and explore. The university, which is over 400 years old, is
one of the oldest in Eastern Europe. Traffic is restricted, and in summer
restaurants and cafés spill out onto the streets. Souvenir stalls and
shops on Pilies sell amber and interesting gifts, while the
surrounding buildings are testimony to the city’s long and
eventful history.
q Upper Castle
The best visual
introduction to Vilnius
is from the viewing
platform on the
castle’s last surviving
tower. The Lithuanian
flag was raised here in
1919 and in 1988.
0 Royal Palace
Also known as the Lower
Castle, it was the main
residence of the Grand
Dukes and was the
political and cultural
heart of Lithuania.
8 Vilnius Cathedral
The austere Neo-Classical exterior of
U
N
Lithuania’s main basilica belies its

IV
hidden jewels, which include the

ER
Baroque Chapel of St Casimir and the

SI
TE
winding passages of the crypt.

TO
3 Presidential Palace
Key
A 14th-century nobleman’s residence, this building
has hosted many historical figures. It became the
Suggested route Presidency in 1997.
VILNIUS  225
. Pilies Street
With a view of the Upper
Castle ever present, Pilies
is one of the city’s oldest
streets. It was once
Vilnius’s commercial
centre but today the
street is popular with
visitors hunting for
amberware and other
local products. Locator Map
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
u Church of St Anne
NŲ GAT VĖ
ARDI The flamboyant Gothic redbrick church fell
RN
BE victim to Napoleon’s soldiers, who used it
as a barracks on their way to Moscow in
1812. Fortunately, the beautiful façade has
PI
V
T
LI
A survived the turbulent centuries.

ES
G
LO
GA
O
YK
TV
M
Ė
.
ŠV
St John’s Church has a

sweeping Baroque
façade.
Littera Bookshop
G
This charmingly decorated bookshop at the

A
eastern edge of the university’s Sarbievijaus

TV
Courtyard also sells university souvenirs.

Ė
1. Vilnius University
Lithuania’s largest university, it occupies a
sizeable part of the Old Town. The university has
over 13 courtyards and multiple buildings.
1 Vilnius University removed during further rebuil

Vilniaus universitetas ding in the 19th century. At
68 m (223 ft), the bell tower,
Universiteto 3. Map 2 D3. Tel 268
7001. Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat.
which was given two extra
8 for prior booking call 268 7103. = tiers by Glaubitz, is the tallest
∑ vu.lt structure in the Old Town. A lift
runs to the top, from where
The oldest university in Eastern there are fine views.
Europe was founded as a
Jesuit College in 1568, before
becoming a school of higher 3 Presidential
education in 1579. The current Palace
campus, constructed between Lietuvos respublikos prezidentūra
the 16th and 18th centuries, is a
Daukanto aikštė 3. Map 2 D3.
combination of different Tel 266 4154. Open 9am–5pm Sat
architectural styles. Façade of St John’s Church and the (call in advance). 8 for group tour
The most impressive of the adjacent belfry call 266 4073. ∑ president.lt
university’s 13 courtyards, the
Great Courtyard has open 2 St John’s Church Formerly a residence for high
galleries dating from the Šv Jono bažnyčia ranking bishops, this ornate
17th century, which were building has existed since
Šv Jono 12. Map 2 D3. Tel 261 1795.
later lined with dedications Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. 5 6pm
Lithuania’s conversion to
to professors. Accessed via a Tue–Thu, 11am & 1pm Sun. Christianity at the end of the
passage from the western 14th century. The palace was
side of the Great Courtyard, At the southern edge of the rebuilt in the late 1820s in the
the Observatory Courtyard by university campus, the impres NeoClassical style by Vasily
contrast is a serene enclosed sive façade and separate bell Stasov (1769–1848), an architect
garden from which the tower of the Church of St John from St Petersburg. It has
observatory and its zodiac the Baptist and St John the hosted a number of important
symbols can be seen. Evangelist dominate the Great personalities, including
North of the Great Courtyard Courtyard. The original Gothic Napoleon Bonaparte and Tsar
is the Sarbievijaus Courtyard, church, built here in 1426, was Alexander I. The former used
the oldest part of the university. reconstructed in 1749 in the palace during his doomed
At its far end, a bookshop, flamboyant Baroque style by advance on Moscow.
Littera, can be found. The Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz (see p237). The palace was later used for a
frescoes caricaturing professors The 10 magnificent altars in faux variety of ceremonial purposes
and students that decorate the marble with Corinthian columns before becoming the Presidential
interior of the bookshop were illuminate the otherwise austere Palace in 1997. When the presi
painted in 1978 by Antanas interior. Initially there were 22 dent is in Vilnius, a flag flies
Kmieliauskas (b.1932). columns, most of which were showing his coat of arms.
Colourful interior of Littera, with its collection of books for leisure and study material, Vilnius University
VILNIUS  227
Elegantly displayed paintings in one of the exhibition rooms, Vilnius Picture Gallery
4 Vilnius Picture Peter the Great baptized a nine- of Lithuania signed the deed
Gallery year-old African slave by the that restored Lithuania’s
Vilniaus paveikslų galerija name of Hannibal, later Major- independence. The Štralis
General Abram Petrovich Coffee House on the ground
Didžioji 4. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 4258. Hannibal (1696–1781), great- floor, created during renovation
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, noon– grandfather of the Russian poet in the 1890s, was a popular
5pm Sun. & 8 = ∑ ldm.lt Alexander Pushkin. The current meeting place for leading
building, designed by Nikolai figures in the Lithuanian
The imposing, enclosed Neo- Chagin, dates from 1865. Closed national revival.
Classical courtyard of this gallery during the Soviet period, it has The second-floor room,
offers a reflection of 19th-century been returned to the Russian where the independence
Vilnius, when these premises Orthodox faith. act was signed, has been
were used by Vilnius University re-created. Unfortunately,
and the Medical Academy. Inside, the displays on this historic
the paintings on display show event are a little sparse.
how the main art movements of
the 19th and early 20th centuries
influenced the development of 7 Šlapelis House
Lithuanian art. Lithuanian Girl Museum
with Verbos by Kanutas Ruseckas Šlapelių namas-muziejus
(1800–60) is an icon of the
Pilies 40. Map 2 D4. Tel 261 0771.
Romantic aesthetic in Lithuanian Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (call in
art. Similarly, the later move- advance). 8 ∑ vilniausmuziejai.lt
ments of Realism and
Impressionism are reflected, Presenting a journey back in
respectively, in intimate portraits, time to Vilnius during the
such as Alfredas Romeris’s Study troubled first half of the 20th
of a Girl’s Hands, and open century, this modest, yet
landscapes, such as Juozas evocative, museum is dedicated
Balzukevičius’s Across a Ryefield. to Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis.
Although a native Polish-
speaker, Marija secretly ran a
5 Church of The small Russian Orthodox Church of Lithuanian-language bookshop
St Paraskeva St Paraskeva on nearby Domininkonų Street
Šv Paraskevos cerkvė while the city was under
Russian, Polish, Nazi and Soviet
Didžioji 2. Map 2 D4. Tel 215 3747. 6 House of occupations between 1906
Also known as Pyatnitskaya Signatories and 1949.
Church, this attractive little Signatarų namai On display are furnishings,
Orthodox church stands on a newspapers, books, music
Pilies 26. Map 2 D3. Tel 231 4437.
site that has been used for rituals Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. 8 -
sheets and postcards from
and prayer for many centuries. this time. In addition, photo-
In the mid-14th century, Grand The House of Signatories, with graphs showing a number
Duke Algirdas built a church an extravagant façade, has of family reunions following
here for his Orthodox wife, played a crucial role in the end of Soviet occupation
before which it had been a Lithuania’s modern history. It can be found beneath 17th-
pagan sanctuary. Here, at the was here that, on 16 February century beams in what used
beginning of the 18th century, 1918, the newly created Council to be the kitchen.
8 Vilnius Cathedral
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a

Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251, Vilnius
Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th century.
The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius, brought
the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque Vilnius, his
idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being a visual
re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was closed by
the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use as a garage
for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened as a picture Valavičius Chapel
gallery. It was eventually returned to the Catholic Church in Members of the Valavičius family
were governors and bishops of
1989 and reconsecrated a year before Vilnius. Their lavish chapel was
independence was declared. created in the early 17th century.
Stucco Sculpture
A sculpture depicting a
bird sacrifice can be
seen on the
tympanum of
the façade.
The entrance
is via a huge
Classical portico.
Wall Painting of the

Crucifixion
The oldest surviving fresco Statue of Luke, the Evangelist
in Lithuania, dating from Of the statues of the Four
the 14th century, can be Evangelists on the southern façade,
found in the crypt. It was Luke appears with a bull, which is a
discovered in 1925. symbol of service and sacrifice.
VILNIUS  229
High Altar
The marvellously
intricate tabernacle door
on the High Altar, which
Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
was created in the 1620s,
Tel 261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
is fashioned from gold
daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
and silver. Two biblical
to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
scenes, the Last Supper
souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
and Christ Washing the
northern entrance for timings
Disciples’ Feet, are
and prices. =
beautifully depicted
on the panel.
. St Casimir’s Chapel
Italian masters created this
superb chapel, one of the major
Baroque jewels of Vilnius, from
1623 to 1636. Its main highlights
are the marble columns,
magnificent stucco figures and
colourful frescoes.
St Casimir (1458–84)
Casimir was the second
son of a Grand Duke,
whose siblings became
kings and queens of
European states
through lineage and
marriage. Pious Casimir
shunned the luxuries of
court life and would
often go to the cathedral
to pray. When he died of
tuberculosis aged 25, it was
rumoured that his coffin
could cure disease. A fresco
. Crypt in St Casimir’s Chapel shows
A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of two how a sick orphan, who
Grand Dukes and two wives of Sigismund prayed beneath the coffin, Richly decorated altar of
Augustus (r.1548–72), the last descendant of was miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
Gediminas (r.1316–41).
the residence of the viewing platform at the top

Grand Dukes that stood provides a panorama of
at the foot of Castle Hill the spires and rooftops of the
and survived the sieges Old Town to the south, as
of the 14th century – well as a glimpse of the new
form the Lower Castle. skyscrapers rising to the west.
In the 1520s, the Royal A funicular offers a ride to the
Palace was renovated Upper Castle.
in Renaissance style by The original stone buildings
Italian architects invited of the Upper Castle were
by Sigismund the Old built in 1419, with restoration
(r.1506–48) and his wife. work taking place in the 1950s.
The palace became the According to legend, while
hub of a vibrant cultural on a hunting trip, Grand
life. Excavations carried Duke Gediminas dreamed
out here in 1987 to 2001 of an iron wolf howling from
unearthed decorative the hills in the park. This,
tiles, tapestries, jewellery his pagan priest said, was a
and armour from this sign that a powerful fortress
Vilnius Cathedral Belfry, Cathedral Square period and earlier. These should be built there. Wooden
objects are thought upper and lower castles and
9 Cathedral Square to have lain buried since the another on the adjacent hill
Katedros aikštė palace was destroyed by Tsarist were the result.
authorities in 1802 as they did
Map 2 D3. @ 10, 11, 33.
not want a symbol of Lithuanian
The paving stones around the power dominating the city. w Lithuanian
square show the outline of the
wall around the Lower Castle,
National Museum
Lietuvos nacionalinis muziejus
a defence that made Vilnius a q Upper Castle
14th-century bastion against Aukštutinė pilis Arsenalo 1. Map 2 D3. Tel 262 9426.
the crusades. @ 10, 33. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Arsenalo 5. Map 2 D3. & 8 ∑ lnm.lt
At the square’s western end
Tel 261 7453. @ 10, 11, 33.
is the Vilnius Cathedral Belfry. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–9pm daily;
It was originally part of the Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily. & An early 19th-century building,
fortifications. There was also a known as the New Arsenal,
western gate where Vilnius The western tower, the only houses the Lithuanian National
Cathedral stands today. The remaining part of the Upper Museum. In front of it stands
square’s eastern end is domi- Castle complex, which once a statue of King Mindaugas,
nated by a statue of Grand included defensive structures, which was unveiled together
Duke Gediminas. Unveiled in is today the symbol of with the nearby bridge in July
1996, it conveys the city independent Lithuania. The 2003. The museum presents
founder’s predilection for
diplomacy over force. In the
square’s centre is a tile marked
stebuklas (miracle), reputed to
be the point where the Baltic
Way (see p43), the human chain
linking Vilnius, Rīga and Tallinn
in 1989, started from. Locals
believe that turning around on
it three times makes a wish
come true.
0 Lower Castle
Žemutinė pilis
Katedros 4. Map 2 D3. Tel 212 7476.
@ 10, 11, 33. Open 8am–5pm Mon–
Fri (to 3:45pm Fri). 8
∑ valdovurumai.lt
A group of buildings, including

Vilnius Cathedral, the Old
Arsenal and the Royal Palace – Western tower, the Upper Castle’s lone surviving structure
VILNIUS  231
prolific craftsman who carved

hundreds of shrines for rural
farmsteads and villages in the
Kėdainiai and Kaunas regions
(see pp262–5).
r Hill of Three
Crosses
Trijų kryžių kalnas
Kalnų parkas. Map 2 E3.
A recognizable landmark and

symbol of Vilnius, the three
crosses on the hill adjacent to
the Upper Castle are replicas of
a monument destroyed by the
Soviet authorities in the 1950s.
Three wooden crosses were
first placed here in the 16th
century to commemorate,
according to legend,
Franciscan friars tortured and
murdered by a pagan rabble.
The incident took place
during the rule of Grand Duke
Algirdas, when Lithuania was
stubbornly resisting Roman
Catholic conversions. Seven
of the friars were hacked to
death, while the others were
Lithuanian traditional costumes on display, Lithuanian National Museum tied to crosses and cast into
the Vilnia river.
a glimpse of everyday life in e Applied Arts The view of the Old Town
Lithuania before World War II. Museum from the crosses is unrivalled.
Ordinary lives are evocatively Taikomosios dailės muziejus A footbridge and a path along
documented in the exhibits, the Vilnia leads to steps up the
which include plates and Arsenalo gatvė 3a. Map 2 E3. Tel 262 hillside. An easier alternative
spoons, decorative boxes and 8080. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, route is via a side road leading
perfume bottles, and even an 11am–4pm Sun. & ∑ ldm.lt up through the park from
old stone with a hollow used where T Kosciuškos Street
for pagan rituals. The 16th-century Old Arsenal crosses the Vilnia.
The museum’s main highlight houses the Applied Arts Museum,
is the first-floor room, which which hosts major state-
gives a pictorial history of the sponsored exhibitions on topics
Lithuanian Grand Duchy from mainly relating to the history of
the Battle of the Sun to the Lithuania, the Grand Duchy and
18th-century partitions (see p215). sacred art.
The museum as a whole One of the permanent
gives a concise overview of exhibitions in the museum
Lithuanian history from the displays Lithuanian folk art from
13th century to the present. the 17th to the 19th centuries,
Fascinating exhibits show- illustrating the heavy impact
cased in the museum include that Christian themes had on
an executioner’s sword, tellingly traditional mediums such as
broken into two pieces, a sculpture. The collection
wonderfully ostentatious includes wayside wooden
18th-century sleigh and a crosses, shrines, saints and
handprint in iron of Peter the rūpintojėlis (Lithuanian folk-art
Great. There is also a display representations of a weary
of folk costumes and a superb Christ holding his head in his
life-size re-creation of a right hand). Particularly
typical Lithuanian peasant illuminating is the work of Hill of Three Crosses, a distinctive symbol
family farmstead. Vincas Svirskis (1835–1916), a of Vilnius
eventually given back to the

friars. The church’s original
16thcentury frescoes are being
restored and include depictions
of the sobriety and solemnity
observed by friars, as well as
St Christopher, and scenes from
the Passion of Christ.
Just outside the church
grounds is a statue of Adam
Mickiewicz, created in 1984. In
August 1987, the statue was
the meeting point for the first
public rally under Soviet
occupation that called for
Lithuania’s national rights.
Elegant façade of the Russian Orthodox Holy Mother of God Church
tHoly Mother of were added to the interior. u Church of
God Church However, of these only the St Anne

Skaisčiausios Dievo Motinos cerkvė main altar, carved by Italian Šv Onos bažnyčia
craftsman Daniele Giotto,
Maironio 14. Map 2 E4. Tel 215 3747. Maironio 8/1. Map 2 E3. Tel 6981
remains today. The intriguing 7731. @ 10, 11, 33. 5 5:30pm Mon–
@ 10, 11, 33. 5 10am, 4pm Sat,
façade combines Gothic Sat, 9am & 11am Sun.
9am Sun. windows and Baroque scrolls.
Both church and friary were According to local folklore, this
The current structure of this closed after the 1863 uprising church charmed Napoleon into
Russian Orthodox church, (see p218), becoming barracks exclaiming how he wished he
designed by Russian architect for Russian troops, but were could take it back to Paris on
Nikolai Chagin, dates from the
19th century. One of the icons,
The Mother of God, was brought
by Tsar Alexander II, who also
gave funds for the reconstruc
tion work. For over 60 years
before its renovation the church
had been used as dissection
rooms for the Medical Academy
and as a military barracks. Just
like the Church of St Paraskeva
(see p227), it stands where
pagan Grand Duke Algirdas
built a place of worship for his
wife, in the 14th century.
y Bernardine
Church
Bernardinų bažnyčia
Maironio 8. Map 2 E3. Tel 260 9292.
@ 10, 11, 33. 5 7:30am Mon–Thu;
6pm Sat; 9am (in English), 10:30am,
1pm, 5pm Sun.
In 1469, the austere Franciscan

Observant friars, known as the
Bernardines after their founder
St Bernardino of Siena, arrived in
Vilnius. The Bernardine Church,
which they built in around 1525,
still retains the late Gothic
crystal vaulting above the aisles.
In the 1770s, a series of Baroque
wooden altars and confessionals Church of St Anne, a Gothic gem said to have dazzled Napoleon
VILNIUS  233
in various languages. The

Adam Mickiewicz (1798–1855) museum also houses the first
“Oh Lithuania, my country, thou editions of a number of his
art like good health; I never knew great poems. The museum
till now how precious, till I lost often hosts literary meetings
thee.” So begins Pan Tadeusz, the and poetry evenings.
lyrical masterpiece of the great
Polish Romantic poet Adam
Mickiewicz. He was born into a p Orthodox Church
family of Polish nobles near of St Nicholas
Nowogrodek, in present-day Šv Mikalojaus cerkvė
Belarus, three years after the
partition of the Polish-Lithuanian Didžioji 12. Map 2 D4. Tel 261 8559.
Commonwealth. His nomadic life Open 1–6:30pm Mon–Fri, 7:30am–
was dominated by a strong 3pm Sun. 5 5pm Tue–Sat, 9am Sun.
yearning for an idyllic lost home-
land. His epic poems are full of The serene, candlelit interior
ancient forests, groves and open of the Orthodox Church of St
Statue of Adam Mickiewicz, outside the landscapes. Gražyna (1822), Nicholas contrasts sharply with
Bernardine Church written in his youth, is about the bustle on Didžioji, the Old
the female chief of a pagan Town’s main street. Originally
Lithuanian tribe who outwits the cross-and-sword-wielding Teutonic a Gothic church dating from
Knights. The Byronesque Konrad Wallenrod (1828) describes these 1514, it passed into the hands
battles with even greater mastery. of the Uniates, or Greek
Catholics, in 1609 before
getting a Baroque overhaul,
the palm of his hand. St Anne’s that decorate the ceiling. Since including the bell tower. The
is a Gothic beauty; its ornate 2009, the building has housed church was returned to the
façade of flowing ogee arches the Church Heritage Museum, Russian Orthodox Church in
and slender windows is a which displays treasures from 1827. The overtly Russian
unique monument to the style Vilnius Cathedral and other Byzantine façade of the church,
in a city of Baroque. The finials sacred art. together with most of the
and the spires are covered interior, is an example of
evenly with decorative crockets the change that took place in
o Mickiewicz
– bricks made to resemble the city’s religious landscape
flowers or curled leaves and Museum following the doomed January
so favoured by Gothic archi- Adomo Mickevičiaus memoralinis 1863 uprising.
tects. One set of historians butas-muziejus The domed chapel on the
found 33 different shapes of Bernardinų 11. Map 2 E3. Tel 279 left is dedicated to Count
brick used in the façade. Inside, 1879. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, Mikhail Muravyov (1796–1866),
the three Baroque altars were 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. 8 the governor-general who
designed by Jan Krzysztof dealt harshly with the
Glaubitz (see p237). The free- The legendary poet uprising’s participants.
standing bell tower was built Adam Mickiewicz, who
much later, in the 1870s. romanticized his Polish-
Lithuanian homeland,
stayed at this apartment,
i Church of which belonged to a
university professor, for
St Michael a brief period in 1822. Set
Šv Mykolo bažnyčia inside a lovely enclosed
Šv Mykolo 9. Map 2 E3. Tel 269 7803. courtyard, the museum
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. attempts to re-create the
atmosphere of the era in
The Renaissance-style Church which the poet lived.
of St Michael was built during Period furniture, which
the early 17th century, as a Mickiewicz himself is
convent for Bernardine nuns said to have used while
and a mausoleum for the writing his first folk-
Sapiega family. Its interior inspired ballads, includes
features several of the nobles’ a table and chair from
funerary monuments. These Kaunas and a chair from
include one to Leonas Sapiega, Paris. Portraits of the
whose initials mark some of poet are set alongside
the crests, motifs and rosettes volumes of his works Façade, Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
Street-by-Street: Town Hall

Square to the Gates of Dawn
Lithuania’s distinctive Baroque architecture, known as Vilnius
Baroque, can be admired in the outstanding monuments
clustered around the Gates of Dawn and the Church of
St Casimir. The enchanting collection of towers and sculptures
was created during the 17th and 18th centuries by Italian and
Polish architects and their Polish-Lithuanian noble patrons.
The buildings are elegantly designed with symmetrical
f. Church of St Casimir
façades, reflecting an unmistakable Italian influence. This church was the city’s
Nonetheless, the mystical atmosphere, so unique to Vilnius, museum of atheism from 1963
distinguishes the area from any other European city. to 1991. The crown symbolizes
St Casimir’s royal lineage.
D
ID
ŽI
OJ
I
GA
T V
s Town Hall Ė
With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.
A
R
K
Ė L
T V Ių
RŪDN
Ų GA
EČ I
VOKI
INKų
GA
V T
Ė
Key
Suggested route
d Contemporary Art Centre

is a Soviet-era venue for
groundbreaking modern art.
Vokiečių Street
One of the city’s
oldest, Vokiečių Street
resembles a park
during the summer
months, with its
outdoor cafés and a 0 metres 100
pleasant central tree-
lined walkway. 0 yards 100
VILNIUS  235
Šv Kazimiero
Street
A narrow cobble-
stone street named
after St Casimir
snakes around the
back of the church
towards Užupis,
with its jumble
of roofs.
Locator Map
Church of the
Holy Spirit
VĖ
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AT
Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered

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Basilian Gate
k. Gates of Dawn
Basilian Monastery A site of pilgrimage, this gateway
The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a to the Old Town protects a silver-
prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet covered painting of the Virgin Mary,
Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. said to have miraculous powers.
Panoramic view of Town Hall Square, with flagpoles and church spires
a Čiurlionis House a court, and prisoners were f Church of

Čiurlionio namai marched from its cells to the St Casimir
square to be beheaded. The hall Šv Kazimiero bažnyčia
Savičiaus 11. Map 2 D4. Tel 262 2451.
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat (entrance
was constructed at the end of
the 18th century and designed Didžioji 34. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 1715.
from side door). 5 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am &
by the Classical architect
The former house of Mikalojus Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (see noon Sun.
Konstantinas Čiurlionis (see p228). Today, the hall hosts
p265) was turned into a about 200 cultural and social The city’s first Baroque church,
museum in 1995, to mark the events around the year. St Casimir was destroyed by fire
120th anniversary of the birth three times after being built by
of Lithuania’s beloved artist the Jesuits between 1604 and
and composer. Čiurlionis lived 1635, prompting heavy
here in relative poverty with reconstruction in the 1750s.
his wife Sofija, from October Much of the interior was
1907 until June 1908, when destroyed in 1812, when
they left Vilnius in search of Napoleon’s army used the
success in St Petersburg. church as a granary. It became
Quite modest in scale, this a Russian Orthodox church
museum does not attempt to during the 19th century and
rival the more extensive one onion domes were added to it.
dedicated to Čiurlionis in During World War I, it served
Kaunas (see p264). Instead, it “Extreme Crafts”, art exhibits at the as a Lutheran church for the
mainly serves as an information Contemporary Art Centre German army and was then
resource and a venue to hear returned to the Jesuits and
his chamber music concerts. d Contemporary restored in the 1920s. The dome
Reproductions of the artist’s Art Centre was rebuilt in 1942 and the
paintings adorn the walls, as Šiuolaikinio meno centras crown was added. The Soviets
do photographs of him. Even used the church as a museum
today, Čiurlionis’s grand piano Vokiečių 2. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 1945. of atheism from 1963. It was
stands here. Open noon–7:30pm Tue–Sun. & - reconsecrated in 1991.
= ∑ cac.lt
s Town Hall Square The main gallery space for

Rotušės aikštė modern art exhibitions in Vilnius,
the Contemporary Art Centre
Didžioji 31. Map 2 D4. _ Kaziuko
features works by both
Crafts Fair (Mar). ∑ vilniausrotuse.lt
Lithuanian and international
Town Hall: Tel 261 8007. n Didžioji
31, 262 6470. Open 9am–1pm, artists. The star attraction is the
2–6pm daily. Fluxus Room, with a permanent
exhibition dedicated to Fluxus,
Fully repaved in 2006, Town Hall the radical art movement that
Square was for centuries a emerged in New York in the
market place and the centre of 1960s. The room pays special
public life. It still bustles with tribute to the movement’s
activity, mainly during the annual creator, Kaunas-born George
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (see p212), Maciunas (1931–78). Memorabilia
when craft stalls line the square. evoking the populist spirit of
The square’s main building, the Fluxus festivals and photographs Altarpiece at the Church of St Casimir,
Town Hall, was earlier the site of of Maciunas fill the room. depicting the saint’s resurrection
VILNIUS  237
Baroque Vilnius
The sensual waves, rich colours and theatrical stucco figures of Baroque architecture
reached Lithuania during the first half of the 17th century, replacing Gothic and
Renaissance. Italian masters, invited by Lithuania’s rulers, built Baroque gems such as
St Casimir’s Chapel (see p229) and the Church of St Theresa. In the mid-17th century came
a second resurgence of the style, when architects living in Vilnius began to develop a
distinct branch of Baroque. Led by Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz, they began to transform the
Old Town’s panorama by designing opulent façades, matched by voluptuous interiors
and multiple altars. By the end of the 18th century Baroque had been replaced by the far
more restrained values of Neo-Classicism.
St Casimir’s Chapel, in Vilnius

Cathedral, is an early Baroque
gem, beautified intricately with
marble from Galicia and the
Carpathians, lavish stucco and
17th-century frescoes.
St John’s Church (see

p226), one of Glaubitz’s
first works in Vilnius,
boasts an overwhelming
four-tier façade made up
of clusters of columns.
Inside there are 10
interconnected altars.
The Basilian Gate (see

p238) of the Basilian
monastery was built by
Glaubitz in 1761. The
18-m (59-ft) structure Church of St Theresa (see
carries a depiction of p238) boasts radiant frescoes,
the Holy Trinity, to glittering altars and an image
which the church in the of the Madonna that is
complex is dedicated. believed to be miraculous.
Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz (1700–67)

The most influential of Vilnius’s late Baroque architects,
Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz developed a distinct school of Lithuanian
Baroque known as Vilnius Baroque. Born in Silesia, Glaubitz was a
Lutheran of German origin who moved to Vilnius at the age of 37
and designed structures for all faiths in this multi-religious city.
Among his most celebrated works are the magnificent façades of
the Basilian Gate, St John’s Church, Church of St Catherine (see
p241), the Church of the Holy Spirit (see p238) and the now Exterior of the Church of St Catherine,
destroyed Great Synagogue (see p243). Old Town
The Uniates who live here now j Church of

are sometimes willing to show St Theresa
visitors round. Šv Teresės bažnyčia
R Church of the Holy Trinity Aušros vartų 14. Map 2 D5.
Tel 212 2578. 5 5:30pm Mon–Sat, Tel 212 3513. 5 7:30am (Latin),
10am Sun. 6:30pm Mon–Fri; 11am, 6:30pm Sun.
Another early feature of the

hChurch of the Baroque landscape, built from
Holy Spirit 1630 to 1655, is the Church of
Šv Dvasios cerkvė St Theresa, which stands in front
of the Gates of Dawn. Materials
Aušros vartų 10. Map 2 D5. Tel 212
7765. ^ 5 8am, 5pm Mon–Fri; like black marble in the portal
7am, 10am, 5pm Sun. and sandstone from Sweden,
used to beautify its façade, were
This Baroque church is the also used in St Casimir’s Chapel
Ornate Baroque entranceway of the religious centre of the city’s inside Vilnius Cathedral (see
Basilian Gate Russian Orthodox faithful. p229) around the same time.
Though completed in This has led some
g Basilian Gate 1634, it remains researchers to believe
Bazilijonų vartai remarkably intact, the that Italian craftsmen
only alterations to the who designed the
Aušros vartų 7b. Map 2 D5.
exterior being a raised chapel also contributed
The awe-inspiring Basilian Gate façade and a new to the Church of
was designed in 1761 in dome added in the late St Theresa. The main
flamboyant late Baroque style 19th century. The attraction of the church
by J K Glaubitz (see p237). An all- painting over the is its interior, with its
seeing eye peers out from the doorway depicts frescoes and altars
central niche. The white bas- Sts Anthony, Ivan and Painting, Church of dating back to the
relief at the top portrays the Eustachius, whose St Theresa second half of the 18th
Holy Trinity, a hint of what lies remains lie within, century. The painting
beyond the gate. The Church of miraculously preserved. In the on the high altar is The Exaltation
the Holy Trinity, placed in the 14th century, the three were of St Theresa by Szymon
hands of the Uniates in 1598, Christians in the court of pagan Czechowicz (1689–1775). St
stands at the centre of an Grand Duke Algirdas. When the Theresa of Ávila in Spain inspired
enclosed courtyard. This was pagan priests demanded that the formation in 1593 of the
once a secluded monastery, but they renounce their faith, they Discalced (Barefoot) Carmelites,
in 1823 the Tsarist authorities refused and were hanged from a Roman Catholic order whose
turned it into a prison for an oak tree. They were canonized emphasis was on discipline and
anti-Russian revolutionaries and in 1547 and the nearby Church prayer. A convent was located
held Adam Mickiewicz (see of the Holy Trinity was built in next door, but today it is a hotel,
p233) there the same year. place of the oak. the Domus Maria (see p304).
Frescoes on the ceiling of the Church of St Theresa

VILNIUS  239
Other rooms have over 150

maps, including some of
Lithuania dating from 1507.
The book section has around
7,000 volumes of unique
publications. The collection
includes a number of books
by famous illustrators.
Varnelis, renowned for
creating optical illusions
based on geometric patterns
in his paintings, rarely meets
visitors now.
z Artillery Bastion
Bastėja
Bokšto 20/18. Map 2 E4. Tel 261 2149.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
Constructed as part of the

Image of the Virgin Mary, seen through the window of the Gates of Dawn city defences in the first half of
the 17th century, the bastion
k Gates of Dawn l Kazys Varnelis had fallen into ruin by the end
Aušros vartai Museum of the 18th century. It was
Kazio Varnelio namai-muziejus used as an orphanage and the
Aušros vartų 12. Map 2 D5. Tel 212
3513. 5 7:30am, 9am, 10am, 5:30pm,
city’s pre-eminent rubbish
Didžioji 26. Map 2 D4. Tel 279 1644. heap, and was finally cleaned
6:30pm Mon–Sat; 9am, 9:30am, 11am, Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat (by
6:30pm Sun. ∑ ausrosvartai.lt up by the Germans during
appointment only). & 8
World War I to store ammu-
The Classical chapel of Gates of nition. Its cool interior made
Dawn follows the centuries-old An extraordinary collection of it an ideal space for storing
custom of having a chapel or a modern art, maps, graphics, vegetables during the early
religious image in every gateway paintings, sculptures, vintage Soviet period.
to safeguard the city from furniture, books and ceramics, In 1987 it was opened as
outside enemies and to protect as well as art from around a museum, and in 2014 it
departing travellers. The focus the world, fill the home of the opened again following
of this chapel is The Madonna of famous Lithuanian-American renovation. Although there
Mercy, an image reputed to have artist Kazys Varnelis (b.1917). is not a great deal to see, the
miracle-working powers. It was Some of the rooms look truly museum holds a certain fasci-
painted on oak in the 1620s and avant-garde, mixing Italian nation for history enthusiasts.
encased in silver 150 years later. Renaissance furniture and Outside, there are pleasant
The miracles attributed to it were French Baroque with 20th- views of the Old Town and
faithfully recorded by nuns at the century American modern art. the hilly Užupis district.
neighbouring Carmelite convent.
The walls surrounding the
painting are covered with silver
votive offerings .
The Classical chapel that
houses the image dates from
1829, when it was rebuilt from an
earlier Baroque version. A flight of
steps leads up to the chapel from
a door in the street. A site of
pilgrimage, it was one of the first
stops for Pope John Paul II when
he visited Lithuania in 1993.
This is the only gateway from
the early 16th-century city walls
to have survived. It becomes
more evident when viewed
from the outside, where round
holes that were used for
cannons are still visible. The redbrick Artillery Bastion, dating from the 17th century
x Church of the poorest of urban areas,

St Nicholas reaching out to the destitute,
Šv Mikalojaus bažnyčia often outside the safety of
the city walls. The Gothic main
Šv Mikalojaus 4. Map 2 D4. Tel 262 doorway dates from this earlier
3069. 5 8am, 6pm Mon–Fri; 9am Sat; period, but the rest of the
8am, 10am, 2pm Sun.
structure was built in the 1770s.
After the 1863 uprising (see
One of the oldest churches in p218), the church and friary
Lithuania, the Church of were closed and used as a
St Nicholas was built when granary and an archive. The
the country was still pagan. altars and the now unidentifiable
Most of its simple Gothic façade frescoes above the nave were
and interior dates from the virtually destroyed, as was a tall
16th century. The interior is Gothic bell tower that stood on
defined by the decorative brick Pranciškonų Street.
veins of the vaulting. Some
colourful paintings discovered Surviving fragment of a fresco on the v Dominican
here include a striking image ceiling of the Franciscan Church
of the sun. Church
The church has patriotic c Franciscan
Šv Dvasios bažnyčia
connotations for Lithuanians, as
from 1901 to 1939, when Vilnius
Church Domininkonų 8. Map 2 D4. Tel 262
9595. 5 3pm, 6pm Mon–Fri;
Pranciškonų bažnyčia
was occupied by Russia and 8am–6pm Sun.
then Poland, it was one of the Trakų 9/1. Map 1 C4. Tel 261 4242.
few churches allowed to hold 5 7:30am Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri; Also known as the Church of
Lithuanian-language services. 9am, 10:30am, 1pm & 5pm Sun. the Holy Spirit, the current
In the churchyard, the statue building of the Dominican
of St Christopher carrying the The cracked and cavernous, yet Church dates from the years
Infant Christ, created in 1959, highly evocative, Franciscan of repair that followed the
also helped to keep the spirits Church is also known as the destructive war of 1655–61
of the people alive. The Church of Our Lady of the during the Russian occupation.
sculptor, Antanas Kmieliauskas Assumption. It stands on a spot A church has stood on this spot
(b.1932), was expelled from the where, in the 14th century, since the 14th century.
Association of Artists because Franciscan friars established a The unassuming doorway,
of it. He later frescoed Littera base on the road to Trakai (see which can be easily missed,
bookshop in Vilnius University pp256–7). The Conventual belies the sumptuous interior.
(see p226). Franciscans chose to settle in Figures in stucco stand out on
Lavishly decorated interior of the Dominican Church, featuring Rococo altars

VILNIUS  241
15 lavishly decorated Rococo

altars. The altars, which are
embellished with colourful
paintings, also feature gilded
frames and faux marble
Corinthian columns – all
hallmarks of the late Baroque
style. The fresco-lined vestibule,
which forms a passage into the
nave from the street, gives the
church a cavern-like quality,
emphasized by the dark,
candlelit interior.
During Napoleon’s chaotic
retreat in 1812, the friary next to
the church was converted into a
hospital and the crypt was used
as a morgue. Today, the crypt is
still full of stacks of mummified
corpses from this period, which Movie cameras on display at the Theatre, Music and Film Museum
have been preserved by the dry
air. The crypt is, however, off- Lithuania’s much-celebrated Ministry of Culture. The
limits to visitors. Baroque architect, Jan Krzysztof museum’s expansive collection
Glaubitz (see p237). is a tribute to the Lithuanians’
The church suffered some love of theatre and classical
damage during World War II music. The exhibits include
and was reopened in 2006 after theatre memorabilia ranging
lengthy renovation. It is now from old costumes and
regularly used as a popular puppets to stage-set pieces,
venue for classical music mostly from the 19th and
concerts and performances. In early 20th centuries. The
the garden facing the church, superb collection of folk instru-
there is a bust monument of the ments features a number of
well-known Polish composer kanklės (decorated Lithuanian
Stanislaw Moniuszko (1819–72), stringed instruments related
who wrote his first operas while to the zither).
working as an organist in Vilnius. The space given to cinema is
The area to the east of the limited and not as informative,
church is where a large convent although there are some
for Benedictine nuns stood from displays on cinematography.
Façade of the Church of St Catherine, with 1622 until the Soviet period.
strawberry-and-cream towers The church’s interior is highly
decorated but not fully repaired, m Radvila Palace
b Church of giving it an air of authenticity. Radvilų rūmai
St Catherine Vilniaus 24. Map 1 C3. Tel 262 0981.
Šv Kotrynos bažnyčia
n Theatre, Music Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun. & ∑ ldm.lt
Vilniaus gatvė 30. Map 2 D3.
and Film Museum
Lietuvos teatro, muzikos, kino The early 17th-century palace,
Originally a small wooden muziejus once grand in size, was reduced
structure, the Church of to just one wing by the end of
Vilniaus 41. Map 1 C4. Tel 231
St Catherine formed part of a the Northern War (1700–
2724. Open 11am–6pm Tue–
Benedictine monastery in the Fri, 11am–4pm Sat. &
21). Now an art gallery,
early 17th century. The church ∑ ltmkm.lt it hosts a permanent
was rebuilt in stone in 1703, display, including 165
almost 50 years after the Housed inside a portraits of members
Russians burned it down. The 17th-century of the Radvila family.
structure, as it appears today, mansion once owned Temporary exhibitions
was built and considerably by the powerful feature little-known,
expanded between 1741 and Radvila family, who but often surprisingly
1773. Its sophisticated design, ruled Lithuania in the impressive, paintings
highlighted by the delightful 16th century, this by Lithuanian artists
strawberry-and-cream twin absorbing museum Phonograph, Theatre, from the 19th and
towers, is attributed to was founded by the Music and Film Museum early 20th centuries.
! KGB Museum
Genocido aukų muziejus
Aukų 2a. Map 1 C2. Tel 249 8156.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. & 8 =
∑ genocid.lt
Also known as the Museum

of Genocide Victims, the
KGB Museum was opened in
1992 on the ground floor of the
former KGB building. In this
Holocaust Museum in the Green House, annexe of the State Jewish Museum effectively designed display
area, personal stories are used
, State Jewish was executed. Descriptions of to reveal the regime of terror
Museum the harsh conditions inside the under Stalin until 1940 and then
Valstybinis Vilniaus gaono žydų ghettoes are followed by until 1991 under the former
Muziejus
eyewitness accounts of the Soviet Union.
mass killings in the forests of The exhibits chronicle the
Pylimo 4. Map 1 C3. Tel 212 7912. Paneriai (see p248). Soviet occupation of Lithuania,
Open 9am–1pm Mon–Fri. & 8 the cattle-car deportations to
excursions of the museum & Vilnius Siberia and the futile efforts of
Old Town offered. ∑ jmuseum.lt / Frank Zappa
the Forest Brothers (see p122)
The hub of the city’s now tiny Statue who fought the Soviets. Below
Jewish community, this small Kalinausko 1. Map 1 C3. ground, the cells were in use
museum displays copies of right up until the late 1980s
ghetto diaries and handwritten The world’s first statue of the and are even more
notes on the backs of cigarette prolific Californian rock overwhelming. They
packets about life in the ghetto, legend Frank Zappa was include tiny cells used
plus items that remained created in Vilnius shortly in winter with no glass
from the museum that existed after his death from in the window and a
before World War II. Several cancer in 1993. A floor filled with water,
objects that miraculously group of local artists and an execution
survived from the Great wanted to test the limits chamber displaying, under
Synagogue include a bas-relief of newly independent glass, the dug-up remains
of the Ten Commandments. Lithuania’s proclamations of of victims. In 1997, the
The museum building also democracy and freedom museum was taken over
hosts a Union of Former Ghetto and were pleasantly by the Genocide and
and Concentration Camp surprised when their idea Resistance Research Centre
Prisoners, a Union of Jewish War for the statue was approved. of Lithuania, a state
Veterans, a youth club and a The bust was created by Bust of institution dedicated to
newspaper in Yiddish, English, the then 70-year-old Frank Zappa investigating atrocities
Lithuanian and Russian called Konstantinas Bogdanas, that occurred in the
Jerusalem of Lithuania. known for his statues of Lenin country during the Nazi and
and other notable Communists. Soviet occupations.
.Holocaust
Museum
Holokausto ekspozicija
Pamėnkalnio 12. Map 1 C3. Tel 262
4590. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu,
9am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm Sun. & 8
∑ jmuseum.lt
Located in the Green House,

this annexe of the State
Jewish Museum reveals some
of the horrors that befell the
Jews of Lithuania during World
War II. A display on Jewish life
before the Holocaust unfolded
is followed by maps and
photographs showing how
and where the Nazi genocide Exhibits in the corridor outside the former execution chamber, KGB Museum
VILNIUS  243
Jewish Vilnius
Until it was eliminated during the Holocaust, Jewish Vilna, or Vilnius, was home to a large,
influential Jewish community. About 250,000 Jews lived in Lithuania at the turn of the
19th century, compared to just 4,000 today, and 40 per cent of Vilnius’s population was
Jewish. By the early 19th century, Vilnius had emerged as a major centre of Jewish
learning and bustled with life. The religious customs of the Litvaks, as Lithuanian Jews
are known in Yiddish, were marked by a rigid analysis of the Talmud, the Jewish laws and
traditions. As a result, other Jewish communities in Eastern Europe saw the Vilna Jews as
being old-fashioned and staunch intellectuals. Decimated by World War II and ravaged
further by the Soviets, Jewish Vilna is a ghostly reminder of a vanished world.
Jewish Vilna before World War II had its cobbled lanes

crowded with artisans’ workshops and cafés. A maze of
courtyards and passages that lay around Vokiečių and
Žydų streets, concealed synagogues and prayer houses.
The Great Synagogue, built in 1572,

was restored with an Italian Renaissance Vilnius Choral
interior by Glaubitz. The Soviets Synagogue was the
destroyed the remains of the Jewish only synagogue in the
quarter after World War II, broadening country to survive
Vokiečių Street and bulldozing this awe- World War II. Located on
inspiring building. Pylimo Street 39, it
started functioning in
1903. Although it was
smaller in scale and
simpler in design
than Vilnius’s other
Elijah Ben Solomon
synagogues, the Choral
(see p40), known as Vilna
Synagogue has an
Gaon, or “genius”, was
enchanting interior.
a leading Talmud
scholar who wrote
extensive commen-
taries on ancient
Hebrew books. He
advocated an
empirical study of
religious scriptures
over mysticism.
A map of Vilna Ghetto is shown on the

wall at Rūdininkų 18. The ghetto is where
the Jews of Vilnius were imprisoned during
World War II, and the wall marks the place
where its only gate once stood.
Further Afield Paupio Street. The statue of an

angel, the symbol of Užupis,
As most of Vilnius’s main sites are concentrated in the Old stands on nearby Užupio Street.
Town, visitors often ignore the suburbs. It can be rewarding, The bizarre Alternative Art
however, to escape the bustling city centre and to discover Centre, where the door is
always open, stands by the river
Vilnius as a living city as well as a picturesque time capsule. between Užupio and Malūnų.
A trip to the TV Tower affords excellent views on a clear day, A stroll further east leads to the
while Vingis Park and Verkiai Palace are ideal for walking serene Bernardinų Cemetery.
and a breath of fresh air. Paneriai and Antakalnis Cemetery, The terrace of the Tores café
meanwhile, recount Lithuania’s often tragic history. on Krivių has one of the city’s
best views. Another viewpoint
can be found on an unmarked
Ė
Ų GATV
TU GA
BU
T NA R T O ŠNIPIŠKĖS footpath behind the school on
SK TV
G AT V Ė
U Ė
K O NS
TI T
LĖ
Krivių Street. The footpath then

K A LVARIJ
UC
N
IJO
Ų
Ė
ŽVĖRYNAS S G AT V
A
plunges down the Vilnia Valley
TO
G
A G O Š T AU
TA
into Kalnų Park.
OLA N D Ų
Š
U TO G
LO
ris
NA
Ne
ARS E VĖ
AT
G
GA
VĖ RO
T
2 Church of Sts
0 km 2 O
OLD B AT
S
TOWN
GELEŽIN
0 miles 2
Peter and Paul
M
2
A
10
IRO
N IO G
A14
IO VILKO GATVĖ
See pp246–7.
VĖ
Ė D AU
TV
KŠ
M
G AT
GA
OS
A2
Ų
I VI MARKUČIAI
LI
RE
EP
KI LĖL I Ų
KA
KA
3 Antakalnis
LN
RA
SŲ GAT V Ė
IO
GAT V
SU
0 km 1
Cemetery
Ė
0 miles 1
Antakalnio kapinės
V ILNIUS
Karių kapų 11. Tel 234 0587.
1 Užupis
101
@ 11.
The largest public cemetery in
MIN
Vilnius brings together much
SKO
PLE
NTA
Tucked inside a bend in the of the city’s modern history.
Vilnius
A3 S Vilnia river, Užupis translates Statues and memorial stones
A15
International
Airport
as “Behind the River”. This cover the verdant landscape,
picturesque part of central the crosses and tombs
Sights at a Glance Vilnius has narrow streets filled inscribed in Lithuanian, Russian
1 Užupis with cafés, art galleries and and Polish. The main path leads
2 Church of Sts Peter and Paul
mysterious hidden courtyards. past a wave of identical stone
pp246–7 The artists who live here crosses dedicated to Polish
declared independence in 1997, soldiers who died during World
3 Antakalnis Cemetery
with their own flag, president War I. At the heart of the
4 Green Bridge
and independence day (1 April). cemetery is a sweeping semi-
5 Parliament
Their constitution, which circular memorial cut into the
6 Vingis Park and Žvėrynas features articles such as “Every- hillside for the 14 civilians who
7 TV Tower one has the right to understand were killed while defending
8 Pushkin Museum nothing”, is nailed to a wall on the TV Tower and the
9 Rasos Cemetery
0 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial
q Calvary Church of the
Holy Cross
w Trinapolis Church
e Verkiai Palace
Key
City centre
Motorway
Main road
Minor road Imaginatively painted façade of the Alternative Art Centre, Užupis
VILNIUS  245
congregate, stands on Liubarto

Street. Vingis Park, reached via a
suspension footbridge on the
western side of Žvėrynas, is
filled with towering pine trees
and footpaths. At the centre
of the park is an open-air
auditorium used for concerts
and, every five years, the
climax to the World Lithuanian
Song Festival. To the east, where
the pleasant M K Čiurlionio
Street meets the park, a
cemetery for German soldiers
killed during the two world
Graves of civilians killed by Russian tanks in 1991, Antakalnis Cemetery wars has been restored.
Parliament in 1991. A path to The similarly monumental

the right of the cemetery National Library, constructed 7 TV Tower
entrance leads to Soviet-era 20 years earlier, stands beside Vilniaus televizijos bokštas
war memorials. it on the other side of Sausio 13–Osios 10. Tel 252 5333.
Independence Square. @ 49. Open 11am–9pm daily
It was in the Seimas, on (to 10pm Fri & Sat). & 8 0 =
4 Green Bridge 11 March 1990, that the act ∑ tvbokstas.lt
Žaliasis tiltas declaring independence from
the Soviet Union was signed. The grand 326-m (1,070-ft) TV
The first bridge crossing During the subsequent siege, Tower is set against a striking
the river at this point was in 1991, concrete backdrop of tall pines. On the
made of wood and was barricades and Catholic ground floor, there is a small
built in the 16th century. shrines were put up display paying tribute to those
The current around the who were shot or crushed
bridge dates building to beneath Soviet tanks while
from 1952, the protect it trying to defend the tower on
year before Stalin’s against Soviet 13 January 1991. Granite markers
death. At its four corners tanks. These were outside show where they fell.
stood Socialist Realist finally removed The tower’s observation deck
statues of confident in 1993, and houses a state-run café,
workers, peasants the remnants Paukščių Takas, at a height of
and soldiers, that emblazoned with 165 m (541 ft). The rotating deck
were originally built Soviet-era statues that adorned graffiti demand- makes a full circle in about 50
to instill optimism the Green Bridge until 2015 ing freedom and minutes and offers spectacular
among the masses in democracy can views of the area. On a clear day,
a brave new Communist future. still be seen on the western visibility is 70 km (43 miles) in
They were regarded as genuine side of the Seimas. every direction, with views
works of art by locals. For years, stretching into Belarus, about
debate raged about whether or 40 km (25 miles) away.
not to take these corroded-iron 6 Vingis Park and
statues away, and they were Žvėrynas
eventually removed in July @ 11, 24. 0 - =
2015. Now debate is raging as
to what to replace them with. The leafy Žvėrynas district was
created from the Radvila family’s
forest-covered hunting grounds,
which were sold off from 1893
5 Parliament as plots of land for develop-
Lietuvos respublikos seimas ment. The streets are lined
with old wooden villas and
Gedimino 53. Tel 239 6060. @ 24.
8 ∑ lrs.lt contemporary mansions. The
silver-domed Orthodox Church
The far end of Gedimino of the Apparition of the Holy
Avenue is marked by the Mother of God (1903) looms
Seimas, Lithuania’s Parliament. over the Neris river. The tiny
Built in 1982, the building is Kenesa (1922), where the Elegant TV Tower, soaring high above
typical of the late Soviet era. Karaim (see p257) used to its surroundings
2 Church of Sts Peter and Paul

Šv Petro ir Povilo bažnyčia
With its breathtaking interior of over 2,000 white stucco

figures featuring angels and demons, biblical scenes and
some gruesome historical images, the Church of Sts Peter
and Paul is essentially a glorified Baroque mausoleum to its
wealthy patron, Michal Kazimierz Pac (1624–82). He was a
Lithuanian military leader and the provincial governor of
Vilnius. Pac’s portrait hangs by the altar, his crest is positioned
over the door and his body lies under the front steps. Built
over the remains of two earlier wooden churches, the second Twin-towered façade of the
of which was badly damaged during a brutal war with Church of Sts Peter and Paul
Moscow from 1655 to 1661, the church was intended to
stand as a lasting monument to peace.
Boat-Shaped Chandelier
A late addition to the interior and
a reference to St Peter’s profession
as a fisherman, the glass-bead
chandelier was made by Latvian
craftsmen in 1905.
Altar
The original high altar was replaced
by The Parting of St Peter and St Paul
(1801), created by the Polish
historical painter Pranciškus
Smuglevičius (1745–1807).
KEY
1 The interior is a fine ensemble

of exquisite stucco and richly
decorated chapels.
2 The inscription above the
balcony reads “Regina pacis funda
nos in pace” (“Queen of Peace protect . Chapel of the Holy Queens
us in peace”), probably a play on the The chapel to the north of the nave is rich in stucco.
patron’s name. The female figure perched over the arch giving a
coin to a beggar denotes compassion.
VILNIUS  247
. Vaulted Nave and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Cupola
The exuberance of the
decoration attains a
Antakalnio gatvė 1. Tel 234 0229.
dizzying scale as the nave 5 7am, 7:30am, 6pm Mon–Sat;
reaches the cupola – the
8:30am, 1pm Sat; 7:30am, 10am,
rectangular reliefs, flowers
11:30am, 1pm, 6pm Sun. Services
and cartouches giving
in Lithuanian & Polish only.
way to a spiral of
animated angels and the
face of God at the apex.
The Italian Connection

The first flowering of Lithuanian Baroque
in the early 17th century took place
when Lithuania’s rulers invited Italian
architects and sculptors to redesign
the city. Matteo Castello (1560–1632)
designed St Casimir’s Chapel (see p229).
His nephew, Constante Tencalla (1590–
1646), completed it, then created the
façade of the Church of St Theresa (see
p238). Half a century later, artists Perti,
Galli and Palloni arrived in Vilnius to
adorn the Church of Sts Peter and Paul.
Smiling Madonna in the Chapel of St Casimir in

Vilnius Cathedral
. Chapel of
St Ursula
Ursula was an English
princess seized by the
Huns with 10 virgin
companions and shot with
arrows. Images of their fate
are balanced by four
sculptures of female saints
including Mary Magdalene.
Ornate Stucco Portico

The rippling central shield above the doorway, flanked
by figures of young boys, displays a fleur-de-lis, a
symbol from Pac’s coat of arms. The glorious stucco
work adorning the entire church is attributed to the
Italian masters Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli.
founder of the first Lithuanian-

language newspaper, Aušra
(Dawn), composer and painter
M K Čiurlionis (see p265) and
Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis (see
p227). A more controversial
monument is the tomb of the
man responsible for Poland’s
annexation of Vilnius in 1920,
Józef Pilsudski (1867–1935). His
body lies among those of the
kings and queens of Kraków,
but by his wishes his heart was
cut out and placed here under
a granite slab. The cemetery
Delightful wooden building of the Pushkin Museum is spiritually significant for
Lithuanians. In 1956, a crowd
8 Pushkin Museum house, behind a statue of gathered here to protest the
Puškino memorialinis muziejus Pushkin, are acres of tranquil suppression of the Hungarian
grounds and a small onion- uprising against Soviet occupation.
Subačiaus 124. Tel 260 0080.
@ 10,13. Open 10am–5pm Wed– domed family mausoleum.
Sun. & 8 ∑ vilniausmuziejai.lt Steps lead down to a lake, and
the paths that reach out into 0 Paneriai
This museum is located in a
bright yellow wooden house,
the surrounding countryside
are a delight to explore.
Holocaust
which stands out on a pleasant Memorial
grassy hill. It was not the great Panerių memorialinis muziejus
Russian poet, but his son 9 Rasos Cemetery Agrastų 17, 8 km (5 miles) SW of
Grigorij (1835–1905) who Rasų kapinės Vilnius. Tel 6808 1278. £ from Vilnius.
lived here with his wife Varvara Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, Sun.
Rasų gatvė. Tel 265 6563. @ 31.
(1855–1935). Founded in
1940 and opened in 1948, the Revered national figures and Centuries of Jewish culture and
museum is now home to many ordinary Vilnius folk lie side by tradition in Vilnius ended at this
volumes of Alexander Pushkin’s side in this cemetery, founded in major Holocaust site. About
works and the ground floor 1769. Some of the distinguished 70,000 Jewish men, women and
is furnished in the late 19th- tombstones include those of children were slaughtered in the
century style. At the back of the Jonas Basanavičius (1851–1927), forests of Paneriai between July
Imposing tombstones of Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis at the Rasos Cemetery

VILNIUS  249
1941 and August 1944. Around e Verkiai Palace

29,000 Poles, Russians and Verkių rūmai
people of other nationalities
Žaliujų ežerių 49. Tel 272 9834.
were killed, as were many Roma @ 35, 36, 76. Open by appointment.
and about 500 Catholic priests. &80
The executions were carried out
by Nazi units with the help of a This once-immense Classical
squad of Lithuanians. The sites, mansion was designed by
including a large pit where, in Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius
1944, the retreating Nazis (1753–98) and Marcin Knackfus
attempted to destroy the last of (1740–1821). The two distin-
the bodies with acid, are now guished architects were com-
an open-air memorial. The first missioned in 1781 to create a
memorial was raised here in 1948. summer retreat for the Bishop
The tiny visitor centre is open only of Vilnius. They built the palace
by appointment in winter, but on a site that, some 400 years
the rest of the site is accessible. Twin-towered façade of the 18th-century previously, had been granted
Trinapolis Church by Grand Duke Jogaila (see
pp214–15) on his conversion
w Trinapolis Church to Christianity, to the new
Šv Trejybės bažnyčia diocese of Vilnius.
Verkių 70. @ 35, 36, 50.
The Classical gem was
unfortunately short-lived. It
The original wooden church was ravaged so much by the
lasted only 6 years before it French army in 1812 that
burned down in 1710. The solid the subsequent owners had
Baroque structure that replaced the central part pulled down.
it in 1722 was designed by Only two wings of the palace
Pietro Puttini, a Veronese survive and some decoration
architect. Following the 1831 is still visible on the ceilings
uprising, the church was closed and the woodwork.
by the Russians and the interior Verkiai Palace is also a
destroyed. In 1849, it was popular place to visit because
converted into an Orthodox of its magnificent location on
church and the Metropolitan, a hilltop above the Neris river.
Fresco in a Station of the Cross, the city’s highest-ranking The views from here of the
Calvary Church of the Holy Cross Russian Orthodox personage, surrounding forests are
used the neighbouring stunning. A centuries-old
q Calvary Church monastery as his summer legend tells how a sacred fire
of the Holy Cross residence. In 1917, the church here was once tended by a
Kalvarijos bažnyčia was returned to the Catholics pagan priest and beautiful
and the Archbishop set up virgins. A winding path leads
Kalvarijų 327, 5 km (3 miles) N of Vilnius residence here. The church from the mansion gates down
Old Town. Tel 269 7469. @ 35, 36, 50. was closed during the Soviet to Vandens Malūnas, a former
5 7am, 7pm Mon–Fri; 10:30am, noon,
era and is still not open to watermill that is now a
4pm Sun. ∑ vilniauskalvarijos.lt
the public. restaurant (see p326).
This twin-spire Baroque church

towering over the Neris Valley
was built by the Dominicans in
the 1750s. The prime feature
of its interior is a series of
ceiling frescoes depicting
the life of Christ. The main
highlights are the nearby
Stations of the Cross. Some
35 chapels, set along a 7-km
(4-mile) hillside route, many
in the Baroque style, were
a popular attraction for
19th-century pilgrims. In
1962, they were destroyed by
the Soviets. Several of the
chapels have been re-created. Vandens Malūnas, a former watermill near Verkiai Palace
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LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION  253
CENTRAL LITHUANIA
Rolling hills, swathes of untouched ancient forest and
thousands of clear lakes characterize Central Lithuania.
Much of the land is protected, allowing birds, animals and
plants to thrive. While Vilnius and Kaunas are the region’s
most vibrant cities, the less-visited towns and villages of the
region, with their beautiful churches and farmsteads, also
attract a number of visitors.
Lithuania’s heartland is symbolized by berries line the roads, particularly

the mysterious mounds and fort-hills of along the route from Vilnius to the spa
Kernavė, where Mindaugas, the first king town of Druskininkai. Some parts of
of Lithuania, is said to have united the Dzūkija, which stretches from Alytus in
Baltic tribes in an effort to hold back the the west to Vilnius in the east, have large
crusading armies of the Teutonic Knights. Polish-speaking communities. Aukštaitija,
Similarly, Trakai, with its fairytale Island which literally means “the highlands”,
Castle that once stood as the kernel of consists of relatively high ground that is
one of Europe’s biggest empires, stirs dotted with lakes. Although some forest
romantic nationalism in Lithuanians. has survived the centuries, much of
Kaunas, which served as the capital of Aukštaitija was used for agriculture
independent Lithuania between the two during the 20th century. With the
world wars, is often seen as the original exception of the Russian-speaking
seat of its nationhood, rather than town of Visaginas, Aukštaitija is
Vilnius, the present-day capital. almost exclusively Lithuanian-
Three of the country’s four speaking and is the country’s archaic
ethnographic regions, each with its hinterland. Centred around Marijampolė,
own dialect and traditions, are located Suvalkija, or Sūduva, is the smallest
in this area. Much of Dzūkija, in the ethnographic region, with its dress and
south, is thickly forested. In summer and customs once influenced by Prussia as
autumn, villagers selling mushrooms or well as Poland.
Permanent display entitled “Space of Unknown Growth” at the open-air art museum, Europe Park
The onion-domed Russian Orthodox Church in Druskininkai
Exploring Central Lithuania

The well-kept roads winding through the region offer great
opportunities for exploring the forests around the spa town Nemunėlio
Rīga Radviliškis
of Druskininkai in the south, as well as the lakes and villages
of Aukštaitija National Park in the northeast. The best way to
experience this pristine landscape is to venture off the main
Kiemėnai
BIRŽAI
roads, onto the scenic minor routes connecting Trakai–
Birštonas, Varėna–Marcinkonys–Merkinė and Molėtai–
Mu
Ap
aš
ša
Ignalina. However, Central Lithuania is more than just lakes a
či
Tetirvina
and forests. The towns are scenic and there is a good choice Pasvalys Gedžiūnai
Jonišlėlis
of old-fashioned farmsteads to visit.
Pakroujis
Py
Pušalotas es
v
a
Rozalimas
L evuo
Paliūniškis
Smilgiai
Šiauliai
PANEVĖŽYS
Dapšioniai
Upytė
Troskūnai
Krekenava N
ev
Ramygala
Do
eži
s
tnu
vėl
Surviliškis
ė
Dotnuva
Ilgiżiai Ukmergė
Flower beds in the pedestrianized centre of Panevėžys uš
Š
vė KĖDAINIAI
Jurbarkas
Josvainiai
Labūnava Vepriai
Didieji Jonava
Babtai Bėnai
Liukonys
Sights at a Glance
is
Vilkija
Ner
Nemunas
Towns and Resorts
3 Kernavė Kaišiadorys
4 Varėna
KAUNAS
Ezėrėlis
5 Druskininkai Garliava
Electrėnai
Nemunas
8 Alytus Mauručiai
9 Kalvarija J ū rė
Slabadai
0 Marijampolė Uzuguostis
Pilviškiai
q Birštonas Prienai
sia
BIRŠTONAS
Iie
w Kaunas pp262–5 Kaliningrad

Verknė
e Kėdainiai Punia
Virbalis MARIJAMPOLĖ
r Panevėžys Skraičionys
t Biržai
Varnupiai
y Rokiškis ALYTUS
Vištytis
u Anykščiai KALVARIJA Lake
Simnas Daugu
i Molėtai Lakelands
Liubavas Lake
o Visaginas Merkinė
Dusios
Zervynos
National Parks DZŪKIJA NATIONAL
1 Trakai Island Castle pp256–7 PARK
Kučiūnai Liškiava
7 Dzūkija National Park Marcinkonys
p Aukštaitija National Park pp270–71 GRŪTAS
DRUSKININKAI PARK
Sights of Interest Gerdašiai
2 Europe Park
6 Grūtas Park
CENTRAL LITHUANIA  255
Getting Around
The A1 motorway between Vilnius and Kaunas and
onwards to the coast, and the A2 motorway from Vilnius to
Panevėžys are the region’s major arteries. Good bases for
exploring are Kaunas, Druskininkai, Anykščiai and Palūšė,
each of which is reachable by bus. Buses traverse Aukštaitija
and Dzūkija national parks, but the best way to enjoy the
surroundings is to reach the pretty villages of Zervynos and
Kvetkai
Čedasai Salos II on foot. Trains go to Kaunas and Ignalina from the
Ne
mu capital, but road transport should be taken to all other
neli
s areas. There are airports at Vilnius and Kaunas.
Pandėlys ROKIŠKIS
Aleksandrevėlė
Kriaunos
Panemunėlis
Lake Daugavpils Key
Sartai
Kupiškis Kamajai Zarasai Motorway
Dusetos Main road

Degučiai Secondary road
Svėdasai VISAGINAS
Minor road
Dūkštas
Vyžuonos Scenic route
Niūronys AUKŠTAITIJA Lake
NATIONAL Dysnai Railway
ANYKŠČIAI Utena PARK International border
Kuktiškės
Ignalina
ji
Didžiasalis
nto
Lake
Šve
Alanta Labanoras Kretunas

Mielagėnai
Kaltanėnai
Molėtai MOLĖTAI Adutiškis
LAKELANDS
Svencionys
Inturkė
Šešuoliai 0 km 20
Sariai
Arnionys 0 miles 20
Širvintos Visalaukė
Magūnai
EUROPE
PARK
Ner
is Nemenčinė
KERNAVĖ
N eris
Sudervė
Vilnia Lavoriškės
TRAKAI Vilnius
ISLAND
CASTLE Rukainiai
Trakai Juodšiliai Minsk
Rūdiškes
Tiltai Šalčininkėlia
Valkininkai Šalčininkai
Salčia
Lida
VARĖNA Eišiškės
Rudnia
Fishing at Lake Srovinaitis, Aukštaitija National Park

1 Trakai Island Castle

A formidable stronghold for any invader to overcome, the
Island Castle in Trakai was built as a seat of power during
the reign of Vytautas the Great and completed just before
the Grand Duchy’s crushing victory over the Teutonic Knights
at the Battle of Grünwald (see p216). As Vilnius grew in
importance, Trakai lost its significance and was destroyed
by the Cossacks during the 1655 Russian invasion. In the
late 19th century, the elegiac island ruins captured the
imaginations of poets and painters during the national
revival. Oddly, it was the Soviet authorities who, in the Dry moat, separating the main castle from
1950s, sanctioned the reconstruction of this monument the outer courtyard
to Lithuania’s glorious past. It was completed in 1987.
. Lakeside Walk
One way to appreciate Trakai’s
idyllic lake-filled landscape
and the scale of the castle’s
construction, is to take the
pretty walk that follows
the shore of the island.
KEY
1 A wooden footbridge links the

shore to the Island Castle.
2 The circular defence towers
have 4-m (13-ft) thick bases.
3 The Ducal Palace’s keep, which
is 30 m (100 ft) high, served as the
residence of the Grand Duke.
4 Yachts from the nearby Žalgiris
Yacht Club are moored next to the
Island Castle between May and
October. They can be hired by the
hour; charges vary.
Lake Galvė
Serving as a moat VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
around the castle, the
lake has 21 tiny islands. Practical Information
Rowing and paddle Road Map D5. n Vytauto
boats can be hired gatvė 69. Tel (528) 51 934.
along the quayside for Žalgiris Yacht Club: Žemaitės
a spectacular view of gatvė 3. Tel (528) 52 824.
the castle. History Museum: Tel (528) 53 946.
Open Mar, Apr & Oct: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 10am–7pm
daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm Tue–
Sun. & ∑ rakai-visit.lt
Transport
@ from Vilnius. £ from Vilnius.
. History Museum
The museum showcases a wide array
of weaponry as well as items found
during excavations, including
16th-century tankards, tiles and coins.
The Karaim of Trakai

The Karaim, a community of Turkic settlers practising
a particular kind of Judaism, lend a distinctly exotic
flavour to Trakai. Their ancestors were taken prisoner
by Vytautas the Great during his military venture to
the Crimea in 1397, and subsequently served as royal
guards. The Karaim have maintained their customs
and traditions. Their characteristic wooden houses,
each typically with gable ends and three windows
facing the street, the Karaim synagogue or Kenesa
and the Karaim Museum, are all on Karaimų Street. Graves in the Karaim Cemetery, partially
The Karaim cemetery is by Lake Totoriskiai. hidden by long grass
2 Europe Park steps lead to the summits

Europos parkas of the hills, where there are
breathtakingly beautiful views
Road Map D5. Tel (370) 237 7077.
@ from Vilnius. Open 10am–sunset
of the surrounding terrain.
daily (last adm in summer: 7pm). &
8 - = ∑ europosparkas.lt Environs
The scenic road from Vilnius to
The 55ha (136acre) park Kernavė passes several villages.
contains contemporary Sudervė, 20 km (12 miles) south
sculptures. The aim of its founder, of Kernavė, has an unusual
Gintaras Karosas (b.1968), was white circular church designed
to give an artistic response to by Lithuania’s legendary early
the French National Geographic 19thcentury NeoClassicist,
Institute’s statement in 1989 Laurynas StuokaGucevičius.
that a point about 17 km
(11 miles) north is Europe’s Wooden steps crossing fort-hills, Kernavė’s
precise geographical centre. archaeological reserve 4 Varėna
Around 100 works of art are Road Map D6. * 11,000.
set in a landscape of forests, hills that the site was inhabited as £ from Vilnius. @ from Vilnius.
and lakes. The American artist far back as 9000 BC. In the n J. Basanavičiaus 9, (310) 31 330.
Dennis Oppenheim (b.1938) 13th century, Kernavė was the _ Mushroom Festival (Sep).
created two monumental pieces first capital of the united ∑ gamtosritmu.lt
– Chair/Pool (1996) and Drinking Lithuanian tribes and a busy
Structure with Exposed Kidney Pool trading centre. The Northern Surrounded on all sides by
(1998). Double Negative Pyramid Crusaders ransacked the thick forest, Varėna is situated
(1999) by Sol Le Wit (1928– prosperous pagan town in on the eastern edge of
2007), is a reflection in concrete 1365. In 1390, another attack Dzūkija National Park (see
of ripples on a lake. Karosas’s was launched by a mighty p260). The town is regarded
own work, LNK Infotree (2000) is army consisting of knights, as the mushroom capital of
a maze of 3,000 old TV sets. soldiers and mercenaries from Lithuania. Although a rich
Germany, France, Italy and variety of mushrooms grows
England. Henry IV (1367– all over the country, here they
3 Kernavė 1413), the future king of proliferate like a carpet on the
England, also participated in forest floor. One day a year,
Road Map D5. * 500. @ from
Vilnius. n Kerniaus 4, (382) 47 385. the assault, from which the usually the last Saturday in
_ Days of Live Archaeology (Jul). town never recovered. September, the sleepy town
∑ kernave.org Today, Kernavė is Lithuania’s springs to life to celebrate the
foremost archaeological res Mushroom Festival (see p213).
The small, sleepy village of erve. In 2004, it was declared a
Kernavė overlooks the idyllic UNESCO World Heritage Site. Environs
Neris Valley, where steepsided The protected area comprises The road from Varėna to
forthills hint at the passing of five large mounds, which Marcinkonys, 22 km (14 miles)
a longlost civilization. contained medieval ramparts southwest, winds pleasantly
Archaeological finds show and fortifications. Wooden through Dzūkija National Park.
Farmstead with wooden barns, on the edge of the forest in Zervynos, near Varėna
6 Grūtas Park
Grūto parkas
Road Map D6. Parko 47, Grūtas
village, Druskininkai. Tel (370) 3135
5511. Open 9am–sunset daily. & 8
7 - ∑ grutoparkas.lt
Around 90 statues and busts

of figures once glorified by the
Soviet regime stand in alcoves
on a forest trail in Grūtas village.
Most of them once graced
squares and gardens, before
being torn down by cheering
Lithuanians in 1991. The park’s
owner, Viliumas Malinauskas,
was awarded the Ig Nobel
Russian Orthodox Church with striking domes, Druskininkai Peace Prize in 2001, the year
the park opened.
Immediately on the left inside futuristic-style buildings still Information in English
the park, a road leads to survive, including the now- is given on each of these
Zervynos, a village with unpaved closed Soviet-era physiotherapy ideological relics. A massive
streets and the scenic Ūla river treatment centre with deco- metal statue of Lenin that
bubbling underneath the foliage rative waves of solid concrete once stood in front of the
and wooden bridges. hanging in mid-air. KGB building in Vilnius lost a
The serene town inspired thumb while being wrenched
painter and composer by a crane from its pedestal.
5 Druskininkai M K Čiurlionis (see p265), who Another statue shows Lenin
lived here from 1890 to 1911. with the Lithuanian
Vilnius. n Gardino 3, (313) 608 00. The Čiurlionis Memorial Communist Party’s First
∑ druskininkai.lt Museum, located in his family’s Secretary, Vincas Mickevičius-
wooden house, displays period Kapsukas. Both statues were
Lithuania’s foremost spa resort, furniture, his notebooks and decapitated in 1991, but their
Druskininkai is a haven of peace copies of his artwork. Another heads have been joined back.
and tranquility. Main roads museum in the town, the There is an image of Stalin,
bypass the town, tucked inside Jacques Lipchitz Museum, is which once stood outside
a bend on the thickly forested dedicated to the Cubist sculptor Vilnius train station until it
Nemunas river, and noise who was born here in 1891. was dismantled in 1960.
restrictions allow peace to Rusų Karys (Russian Soldier)
prevail. After thriving on 200 E Čiurlionis Memorial Museum is a statue made by Nazi
years of popularity, Druskininkai M K Čiurlionio 35. Tel (370) 313 51131. prisoners of war from metal
suffered an economic shock in Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. taken from the wrecks
the 1990s, when it found itself Closed last Tue of the month. & 8 of German planes shot down
deprived of Polish, Belarusian E Jacques Lipchitz Museum by the Soviets. There are also
and Russian tourists, who once Šv Jokubo 17. Tel (313) 56 077. statues of Red Army liberators,
stayed in its sanitaria. Open call ahead for opening hours. & poets and other heroes.
Wellness tourism has,
however, been revived since the
1990s. The sanitaria offer water
and mineral mud treatments,
massages, beauty programmes
and fitness trails through the
forest. Bike rides and long walks
are possible along the Sun Path,
which leads through the
picturesque Ratnyčia Valley.
The boulevard-lined town
centre preserves wooden villas
from the 19th and early 20th
centuries, mainly found on
Laisvės Square. The delightful
Russian Orthodox Church also
stands in the same square.
On Vilniaus Street, some Busts of Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin in Grūtas Park
View of the Nemunas river and surrounding area from the fort-hill at Merkinė, near Dzūkija National Park
7 Dzūkija National scenic hamlet of Liškiava, at the the city and the Dzūkija forests
Park southwestern edge of the park. to the south. In the centre, the
Dzūkijos nacionalinis parkas The 14th-century castle that Museum of Local Lore has a
stood here defended the Grand collection of 65,000 antiques.
Road Map D6. £ from Vilnius to Duchy against the mighty The bridge across the Nemunas
Zervynos, Marcinkonys. @ from Vilnius Teutonic Knights. Another has a bas-relief depicting a
to Merkinė. n Vilniaus 3, Merkinė, striking landmark is the domed battle that occured here
(310) 44 641. Headquarters: Miškininkų
18th-century Holy Trinity between Lithuanians and
61, Šilagėlių 11, Marcinkonys, (310) 44
Church, with a rich interior Bolsheviks in 1919. It
466. 8 English-speaking guides
arranged in Merkinė, Marcinkonys.
featuring seven late Baroque claimed the life of Antanas
∑ dzukijosparkas.lt altars. A series of frescoes Juozapavičius, the first
depicting images from the Lithuanian officer to die in the
This densely forested park history of Christianity were independence struggle. His
covers 550 sq km (212 sq miles) covered in plaster in 1823 and tomb lies by the Guardian
of countryside. Besides an were only restored in 1997. Angels’ Church.
enormous area of ancient pine In Marcinkonys, a village Much of the city centre was
forest in the sandy Dainava 8 km (5 miles) southwest of destroyed in 1941. Soon after, all
plain, the park also covers Zervynos, a track leads south- the city’s 60,000 Jews were
sweeping bends in the wards to Čepkeliai killed in Vidzgiris Forest, a site
broad Nemunas Valley. Reserve. This area marked in 1993 by a monument
More than 200 species protects the country’s of a broken Star of David.
of flora and fauna are most extensive marsh, Gravestones in the city
protected in the park, which stretches into cemetery remember the Jews.
including many rare Belarus, and the migra-
species of stork. tory birds that stop here.
The few villages that Paths and raised wooden
are located in the park walkways reach
offer a glimpse of White stork, Dzūkija observation platforms
Eastern European life National Park offering great views.
that has remained the
same for a century or more.
The ethnographic reserve of 8 Alytus
Zervynos is on the park’s
eastern edge. Kaunas. @ from Vilnius, Kaunas.
The ancient settlement of n S.Dariaus ir S.Girėno 1, (315) 52
Merkinė lies at the confluence 010. ∑ alytus.lt
of the Nemunas and Merkys
rivers. A fort-hill, the site of a Lithuania’s sixth-largest city
14th-century castle, offers began as a hilltop fortress
extensive vistas of the park. where the tiny Alytupis river
Another fort-hill overlooking trickles into the Nemunas. The Mass of crosses in the churchyard of
the Nemunas river is in the hill still offers views of both Guardian Angels’ Church, Alytus
Environs then shot on the banks of q Birštonas

From Alytus, the Nemunas river Lake Orija. The synagogue has
sweeps towards Kaunas (see been partially restored as a Road Map D6. * 4,600. @ from
Vilnius, Kaunas. n B Sruogos 4, (319)
pp262–5) around several huge, national monument.
65 740. _ Birštonas Festival (Jun),
forest-covered bends. One of The Church of the Blessed
Birštonas Jazz (Mar, alternate years).
these bends can be viewed Virgin Mary, with its statues ∑ visitbirstonas.lt
from an evocative fort-hill at the of angels and kings on the
far end of the quiet village of pediments above the portico The secluded spa town of
Punia, located 15 km (9 miles) and gate, was built in 1840. Birštonas is quite different from
north of Alytus. the bustling wellness centre of
Druskininkai (see p259). Though
E Museum of Local Lore 0 Marijampolė open to paying guests as well
Savanorių 6. Tel (315) 53 370. as patients, Birštonas’s clinical
Road Map C6. * 61,000.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm sanitaria have remained
£ from Kaunas. @ from
Sat. & ∑ alytausmuziejus.lt trapped in a bygone era.
Kaunas. n J Basanavičiaus 8,
(343) 31 020. ∑ marijampoletic.lt Nonetheless, the well-ordered
landscape planning and a
This town takes its name from pleasant pedestrian boulevard
an 18th-century monastery alongside the Nemunas river
built for the Marian Fathers, a makes it a delightful town to
religious order founded in 1673. explore. On the town’s eastern
The Church of St Michael edge stands Vytautas Castle
became a part of the complex Hill, the site of a hunting lodge
in 1824, but the monastery’s of Grand Duke Vytautas. A large
activities were restricted carved stone statue of Vytautas
after the 1831 uprising. on horseback stands near the
The church was revived fort-hill. Birštonas is
by Bishop Jurgis dotted with wooden
Matulaitis (1871–1927), houses, which date
whose remains are from the mid-19th
marked by a tombstone century, when the reputa-
and sarcophagus. During tion of the town’s mineral
Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary the Soviet occupation in waters and muds began
in Kalvarija 1944, over 6,000 residents to grow. A tiny yellow
were deported to Siberia. building in the town
9 Kalvarija Anti-Soviet partisans centre contains a tap
mounted a struggle, a Vytautas’s statue, with free access to the
Kaunas. story told at the Tauras Birštonas rich well of water
District Partisans and below. The town
Another Lithuanian town Deportation Museum. A attracts a lot of visitors during
deeply haunted by the cemetery on Varpio Street and a Birštonas Jazz, Lithuania’s
Holocaust, Kalvarija emerged chapel on Tylioji Street remember oldest jazz festival. Held once
in the 17th century as a trading the victims of the Soviet regime. every two years, the three-day
town on the Warsaw–St marathon features a range of
Petersburg road. Jews made E Tauras District Partisans and styles. Birštono Seklytėlė (see
up a significant part of the Deportation Museum p328), a valley-top restaurant,
population, some of them Vytauto 29. Tel (370) 3435 0754. has a grand view of the pine-
wealthy merchants who Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. & covered Nemunas.
exported grain to Germany,
but the majority were poor
workers who manned several
factories making brushes and
medicinal alcohol. Wooden
synagogues were built and,
in 1803, a stone synagogue
complex was constructed,
including a rabbi’s house and
beit midrash (a place of study
and prayer).
In 1941, the Nazis and the
Soviet army exterminated the
entire Jewish population in
town. Lithuanian and Jewish
Communists were tortured, The Nemunas river, seen from the promenade at Birštonas
w Kaunas R Church of St George

Papilio 7/9. Tel (37) 224 659. 5 6pm
Lithuania’s second-largest city, Kaunas stands at the confluence Mon–Fri, 10am Sat, 5pm Sun.
of the Nemunas and Neris, the country’s biggest rivers. A series Constructed for Bernardine friars
of disasters hindered the city’s development, including in the 15th century, this Gothic
church was destroyed twice
invasions by the Russians (1655), Swedes (1701) and Napoleon’s
by fire before its interior was
Grand Army (1812). Rapid growth in the 19th century restored in the Baroque style. The
culminated in Kaunas becoming the temporary capital of newly church was further damaged by
independent Lithuania in 1919. Later, the city suffered under the Russians in the 17th century
Nazi and Soviet occupations. Today, Kaunas is a modern city and in 1812 by Napoleon’s
with a boulevard and a host of museums. The main historic soldiers, who used it as a ware-
house. It was finally returned to
sights are located in its well-preserved Old Town. the Franciscans in 1993.
T Kaunas Castle
Pilies 17. Tel (37) 300 672. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat.
The ruins of Kaunas Castle
are a reminder of the strategic
importance of its location,
between the two rivers, Neris and
Nemunas. Little is known about
what stood here before the first
stone structure was erected in
the 13th century. Crusaders
damaged the castle in 1362.
Soon after reconstruction, the
Teutonic Knights were dealt their
Bridge over the Nemunas river leading to the Old Town decisive blow at the Battle of
Grünwald (see p216) and the
P Old Town Hall fire station and theatre. Town castle consequently fell into ruins.
Rotušės aikštė. Hall Square, where it stands, was The structure was used as a
Known locally as the “White once a busy marketplace and prison in the 18th century, but
Swan” and resembling a church the focal point of the Old Town. was restored in the 1920s.
with its single-tiered tower, the
Old Town Hall has been a R Church of the Holy Trinity E Pharmacy Museum
marriage registry office since Rotušės aikštė 22. Tel (37) 323 734. Rotušės 28. Tel (37) 201 569.
the 1970s. It continues to be the 5 10am Sun. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
photogenic backdrop for Built for a Bernardine convent in A powder for epilepsy made
newlyweds. Built in the mid- the late 1620s, this church has from the heads of corpses, a
16th century, it housed remained in good condition. tincture of “Venus hair” to
merchants, magistrates and the Its blend of Renaissance and improve one’s allure and a
mayor, as well as a subterranean Gothic styles and pastel colours 19th-century herbal remedy
prison. It has been used as an brighten up the northwestern
ammunition store, clubhouse, corner of Town Hall Square. A KLAIPĖDA,
Ninth Fort
redesign of the interior was JU
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Elegant Old Town Hall, locally called the Zapyškis Church
“White Swan” 0 yards 500
for male vitality called Erektosan paintings, the 17thcentury VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
are among the exhibits at this Suffering Mother of God, repu
unique museum. Chilling tedly has miraculous powers. Practical Information
medicinal apparatus and the Road Map D5. * 320,000.
occasional waxwork, such as E Perkūnas House n Laisvės alėja 36, 323 436.
a shaman curing a baby, add Aleksoto 6. Tel (37) 6414 4614. _ International Jazz Festival
to the atmosphere. The Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Fri; other (Apr). ∑ kaunastic.lt
museum also runs a times by appointment. 8 Transport
homoeopathic pharmacy. The ogee arches and pinnacles k 10 km (6 miles) N of town.
of this redbrick Gothic building, £@
R Cathedral of Sts Peter resemble those of the Church
and Paul of St Anne (see p232), Vilnius. It
Vilniaus 1. Tel (37) 324 093. 5 7am, was named after Perkūnas, R Vytautas Church
8am, 9am, 6pm daily. the pagan god of Aleksoto 3. Tel (37) 203 854. 5 6pm
Several reconstructions thunder, when Tue–Thu, 10am & 6pm Sat–Sun.
have culminated in the renovation in the 19th Standing on the bank of the
Gothic and Renaissance century revealed that Nemunas river, this church was
exterior of this 15th it may once have been built on the orders of Vytautas
century cathedral. The the site of a pagan the Great after the Holy Roman
broadly late Baroque temple. Dating from Emperor decided in 1413, much
interior, however, has the early 1500s, it was to the ire of the Teutonic Knights,
remained largely originally a meeting that the land on the river’s right
unchanged since 1800. Painting, Cathedral of house for merchants bank belonged to the Grand
A tombstone on the Sts Peter and Paul in the Hanseatic Duchy of Lithuania. Already an
exterior of the south League. Bought by army storehouse, the church was
wall is that of Maironis (1862– the Jesuits, the house was con converted to serve a Russian
1932), a priestpoet whose verse verted into a chapel before Orthodox congregation. A full
romanticized Lithuanian becoming, in the 19th century, reconstruction took place after
legends and landmarks. Inside, a theatre and then a school. Lithuania’s first independence in
the sculptures surrounding the Later, during the Soviet period, 1918, post World War I. In 1930,
high altar are overpowering. it was used as a warehouse. It is a medallion was placed in the
The oldest of the cathedral’s now back with the Jesuits. church wall to commemorate
the 500th anniversary of
Kaunas Vytautas’s death.
1 Old Town Hall 9 Folk Music Museum
2 Church of the Holy Trinity 0 Laisvės Avenue
3 Church of St George q Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery
4 Kaunas Castle w Church of the Resurrection
5 Pharmacy Museum e M K Čiurlionis Art Museum
6 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul r Vytautas the Great War Museum
7 Perkūnas House t Devils Museum
8 Vytautas Church
Airport VILNIUS,
10 km (6 miles) RUMŠIŠKĖS Redbrick Gothic structure of
Vytautas Church
R OS
Ė A UŠ
TV Ė
GA
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TV Church of the
E Folk Music Museum
E
GA S
M
TA Resurrection
US K
A
ČI
A PE Devils Zamenhofo 12. Tel (37) 422 295.
IČ
EV
I OS Museum
IU
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AC
V PUTVINSKIO
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
G
A M K Čiurlionis G AT V Ė
A
Q
R I Art Museum V Sat. & 8
T
Vytautas the Great Ė

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Philharmonic
K D ON E L A I Č
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G AT V Ė
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E Laisvės
Avenue
LAISVĖS
ALĖJA ing pipes and whistles. Only 500
G AT V Ė City of them are on display due to
DAUKANTO
Garden NEPRIKLAUSOMYBĖS
IAUS
AIKŠTE
the museum’s small size. The
KĘSTUČIO G
staff can give demonstrations of
MICKEVIČ
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TV TO
Mykolas Žilinskas
Ė
Art Gallery many of these. Stranger pieces,

G AA N
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M IND
AUGO PROSPEKT
AS such as the table bass, a pine
Bus Station
450 m (500 yards) table with four strings and a
A
Railway Station
800 m (885 yards)
Pažaislis
Monastery
pig’s bladder, are also displayed.
Exploring Modern Kaunas However, the main focus of

the museum is the re-creation
Stretching eastwards from the Old Town is Kaunas’s of the story of the doomed
modernized New Town. The process of its expansion began in transatlantic flight of the
the 19th century, and today it is the hub of commercial and Lituanica in July 1933. The pilots,
Steponas Darius and Stasys
cultural life in the city. The museums and other sites are found
Girėnas, died in the crash, but
around the heart of modern Kaunas in Laisvės (Freedom) the distance covered (6,411 km/
Avenue. This broad, leafy, pedestrianized boulevard is lined 3,984 miles) was the second-
with shops, pavement cafés, restaurants and bars, and is the longest flight ever recorded. The
place local people come to stroll and mingle. plane’s wreckage is on display.
E Devils Museum
R Church of the V Putvinskio 64. Tel (37) 221 587.
Resurrection Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Žemaičių 31. Tel (37) 229 222. 5 6pm -=
Mon–Fri; 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm Sun. This museum’s fine collection of
With a 70-m (230-ft) steeple, this representations of devils, demons
church was built in 1918 to mark and witches from Lithuania and
Lithuanian independence. After around the world, was brought
World War II, the Soviets turned it together by avid collector
into a radio factory. With indepen- Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876–
dence regained, the factory was 1966). A sculpture of the horned
evicted. After reconstruction the figures of Hitler and Stalin fight-
church was consecrated on ing over Lithuania in a pit of
Christmas Day 2004. bones is grim, but most of the
Laisvės Avenue leading to the Church devils are shown as playful,
of St Michael E M K Čiurlionis Art musical and frequently drunk.
Museum
P Laisvės Avenue V Putvinskio 55. Tel (37) 229 475. E Ninth Fort
At the eastern end of this Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to Žemaičių 73. Tel (37) 377 750.
boulevard are the blue-silver 7pm Thu). & 8 ∑ ciurlionis.lt Open 10am–6pm Thu–Mon.
onion domes of the Church of Housing virtually all of Čiurlionis’s 8 ∑ 9fortomuziejus.lt
St Michael. Originally Russian paintings, this museum also The ninth in a series of
Orthodox when it was built in covers the development of art in fortifications constructed by
the early 1890s, it was later Lithuania. With 335,000 exhibits, Tsarist Russia to protect its
converted to serve the Lithuanian it holds Lithuania’s biggest art western borders was built in the
army. A monument by the park collection, but there is only room early 20th century, only
outside the Music Theatre at to display a fraction of the pieces. to become a prison in 1924.
Laisvės 4 marks the spot where Artifacts from other cultures During World War II, it was used
Romas Kalanta, a Lithuanian include some oddly juxtaposed for incarceration and exterm-
student, set fire to himself on pieces from Ancient Egypt. ination by the Nazis. The fort
14 May 1972 in protest against also housed Soviet political
Soviet rule. His suicide sparked E Vytautas the Great prisoners. Part of a farm after the
student protests, which were War Museum war, it opened as a “museum to
ruthlessly suppressed. Donelaičio 64. Tel (37) 320 939. the victims of Fascism” in 1958.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 The renovation in 2015 has
E Mykolas Žilinskas Lithuania’s national war museum resulted in expanded displays
Art Gallery exhibits weapons that the on the Nazi and Soviet occupa-
Nepriklausomybės 12. Tel (37) 222 853. country has used to defend itself. tions and the history of the fort.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
An exile who had fled from
Kaunas to West Berlin in advance
of the Soviets in 1940, Mykolas
Žilinskas (1904–92) later built a
valuable art collection, which he
donated to Kaunas in the 1970s.
Besides canvases and porcelain
from the 16th to the 20th
centuries, including The Crucifixion
by Rubens and some early Soviet
avant-garde art, there are also
pre-war paintings and sculptures
by Baltic artists. Artillery on show at the Vytautas the Great War Museum
+ Raudondvaris
5 km (3 miles) W of Kaunas. @ from
Kaunas. ∑ raudondvariodvaras.lt
Built by the crusaders in the
14th century, Raudondvaris
(Red Manor) became a part of
Lithuania after the Battle of
Grünwald (1410). The legend
says that it was presented as a
gift in 1549, by Sigismund
August to Barbora Radvilaitė, a
year before their marriage. After
her death in 1551, the castle fell
into ruin and was rebuilt as a
manor house in the 17th century Merchants’ houses lining the square of the Old Town, Kėdainiai
by the Tyszkiewicz family. Its
library and collection of reassembled. The rolling country- Its colourful Old Town has a
paintings were lost during side overlooking Lake Kaunas series of elaborately gabled
World War I. A chapel close by creates a perfect backdrop. merchants’ houses in the main
contains the Tyszkiewicz tombs square. Close by, the Renaissance-
that survived the 20th century. R Zapyškis Church style Town Hall dates from 1654
15 km (9 miles) W of town. and holds Kėdainiai’s admin-
One of Lithuania’s loveliest istrative offices. In another
buildings, the triangular red- square, two synagogues dating
brick Gothic Zapyškis Church from 1837 stand side by side.
is set in a field by the They were once used by the
Nemunas river. Built in the town’s thriving Jewish commu-
16th century, it has remained nity. Another synagogue, now
miraculously intact despite the Multicultural Centre, holds
invasions and occupations. a museum on Kėdainiai’s
cultural history.
e Kėdainiai Environs
Paberžė, 30 km (19 miles)
A red manor with manicured lawns Kaunas, Vilnius. @ from Kaunas, Vilnius. north of Kėdainiai, with its
at Raudondvaris n Didžiosios rinkos 6, (347) 56 900. delightful wooden church,
_ Cucumber Festival (Jul), Broma was the residence of Father
R Pažaislis Monastery Jazz Festival (Aug), Ice Cream Festival Stanislovas (1918–2005), a
7 km (4 miles) E of town. Tel (37) 458 (Aug). ∑ kedainiutvic.lt revered Tolstoyan hermit and
868. Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri, Capuchin friar.
10am–4pm Sat. With a history as a trading town
One of Eastern Europe’s great on the route between Kaunas E Multicultural Centre
Baroque monuments, Pažaislis and Rīga, Kėdainiai was first men- Senoji rinka 12. Tel (347) 51 778.
Monastery and its central, cupola- tioned in written sources in 1372. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
domed Church of the Visitation
of the Blessed Virgin Mary were
constructed by Italian architects M K Čiurlionis (1875–1911)
in the 17th century. There is finely A tortured soul and artistic genius, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis is
detailed stucco work inside the Lithuania’s most famous painter and composer. He started out as a
church and in the corridors of the prodigious composer of atmospheric symphonic and organ works, but
monastery, much of it framing at the age of 27 he began to study drawing. The next nine years were
intricate frescoes painted by the filled with feverish creativity.
Italian artist Michelangelo Palloni. Before his early death from
pneumonia, he had created
E Rumšiškės Open-Air
around 300 works of music,
painting and poetry. Many of his
Museum
mystical paintings mirrored his
L Lekavičiaus 2, 15 km (9 miles) E of
musical compositions and some
town. Tel (346) 47 392. Open May–Sep:
were named as pieces of music,
10am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–
such as Spring Sonata (1907) and
4pm (park only). & 8 7 ∑ llbm.lt
Funeral Symphony (1903). Despite
At Rumšiškės Open-Air Museum, their melancholy, Čiurlionis’s
traditional thatched farmsteads painted and musical works can be Painting by Čiurlionis, displayed at the
and other elements of village surprisingly uplifting. M K Čiurlionis Art Museum
life have been carefully
Trakai’s fairytale castle, an island stronghold
y Rokiškis
Panevėžys. @ from Panevėžys, Vilnius.
n Nepriklausomybès 8, (458) 52 261
or (458) 51 044. _ Lake Sartai Horse
Race (first Sat in Feb). ∑ rokiskiotic.lt
Set amid glorious countryside,

Rokiškis is blessed with fort-hills,
forests and picnic sites. However,
it is best known for its cheese
company, Rokiškio Sūris.
Having started as a small local
dairy, it now sells cheeses all
Interior of the Neo-Baroque Cathedral of Christ the King, Panevėžys over the Baltic region.
Rokiškis Manor House, the
r Panevėžys Sėla Museum, housed in the town’s main sight, was built in
Road Map D5. * 105,000.
17th-century Biržai Castle. 1801 by the Tyzenhaus family.
£ from Klaipėda. @ from Vilnius. Visitors can enjoy the live folk The Polish architects who
n Laisvės aikšte 11, (45) 508 081. music per formed here, but redesigned it in 1905 created
∑ panevezysinfo.lt should book ahead. an English-style interior, but its
In 1701, Peter the Great of exterior has Baroque elements.
One of Lithuania’s largest cities, Russia and King Augustus II of It houses the Rokiškis Museum,
with a modern commercial Poland signed the pact against which offers tours of the lavish
centre, Panevėžys is a crucial Sweden in this castle on the Great Hall and a separate
transport hub in the region. eve of the Great Northern War building that exhibits fine
South of its centre lies the (see p37). wooden folk sculptures by
Cathedral of Christ the King, a In the grounds are the ruins of Lionginas Šepka (1907–85).
Neo-Baroque structure built in an older castle, whose defences
1904. A sweeping painting in the mid-1500s involved Environs
above the altar depicts a victo- damming two rivers to create Kriaunos, 15 km (9 miles)
rious medieval Lithuanian army. Lithuania’s oldest man-made southeast of Rokiškis, has a local
A few streets north, the Civic lake, Širvėna. A 525-m (572-yard) Historical Museum filled with an
Art Gallery often holds wooden bridge leads across the eclectic collection of flax tools,
eccentric exhibitions of local lake to Astravas Manor Park, with linen fabrics, tubs and troughs.
modern art. East of the centre its sprawling 19th-century manor Hidden upstairs, the “loft of
is Glasremis, a working gallery house, watermill and old dam. witches” is a coven of 400 witches,
creating glass items. mermaids, fairies and goblins.
E Sėla Museum The island in Lake Dviragis
Environs J Radvilos 3. Tel (450) 31 883. in the village of Salos, 20 km
In Pakruojis, 50 km (31 miles) Open May–Sep: 10am–5:30pm (12 miles) southwest of Rokiškis,
northwest of Panevėžys, the Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–5:30pm was a sanctuary for its inhabitants
country’s largest 18th-century Wed–Sat. & 8 in the early 15th century.
manor lies in a 6-ha (15-acre)
park, with a five-arch stone
bridge and 40 other structures.
E Civic Art Gallery

Respublikos 3. Tel (45) 584 802.
Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
E Glasremis
J Biliūno 12. Tel (45) 430 403.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. =
t Biržai
Road Map D4. * 28,000.
@ from Panevėžys. n J Janonio 2,
(450) 33 496. ∑ birzai.lt
The small town of Biržai is

best known for its traditional
breweries. The local brew can
be sampled in the cellar of the Wooden bridge across the castle moat into the older castle, Biržai
Forest-lined lakes with inlets,

such as Baltieji and Juodieji
Lakajai, and, further south,
Asveja, are protected as part
of the 55,000-ha (136,000-acre)
Labanoras Regional Park.
Molėtai is one of the oldest
settlements in the country,
although it has preserved
very few historical monuments.
The Molėtai Astronomical
Observatory offers sweeping
views of area. Inside, the Ethno-
cosmology Centre displays
Restored Classical façade of Salos Manor House near Rokiškis an intriguing exhibition on
the links between cosmology
Now connected by a bridge to paddock or in a horse-drawn and the pagan rituals of the
the rest of the village, the island carriage, can be had for a ancient Lithuanians.
forms a calm backdrop to a small fee. There is also a mini-
Classical 19th-century manor and playground for children.
a Neo-Gothic wooden church.
E Anykščiai Northern
E Rokiškis Museum Railway Museum
Tyzenhauzų 5. Tel (458) 52 261. Vilties 2. Tel (370) 38 15 4597.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily,
Nov–Apr: by appointment. & 8 -
E Historical Museum
∑ siaurukas.eu
Kriaunų village. Tel (458) 41 718.
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat (call in E Horse Museum
advance). & 8 Niūronių village. Tel (381) 51 722.
Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily,
Oct–Apr 9am–5pm. & 8
u Anykščiai ∑ arkliomuziejus.lt

Panevėžys. @ from Panevėžys,
Kaunas. n Gegužės 1, (381) 59 177. i Molėtai Lakelands Exterior of the Ignalina Nuclear Power
∑ antour.lt Lithuanian Narrow- Plant, near Visaginas
Road Map D5. * 21,000.
Gauge Railway: ∑ siaurukas.eu £ from Vilnius, Daugavpils. @ from
Vilnius, Daugavpils. n Inturkės 4, o Visaginas
Nestled in a landscape of rolling (383) 53 091. Road Map E5. * 22,000. £ from
pastures, Anykščiai creates a Vilnius, Daugavpils. @ from Vilnius,
picturesque setting for the The lakes that extend east from Daugavpils. n Ateities 23, Ignalina,
160-km (100-mile) Lithuanian the town of Molėtai are some (386) 52 597. _ Visagino Country
Narrow-Gauge Railway. Only of the Baltic region’s cleanest, Music Festival (mid-Aug).
68 km (42 miles) of Europe’s making them perfect for ∑ visaginas.lt
longest functional narrow-gauge camping and swimming.
railway is in regular use today. With only 15 per cent of
Its locomotives pull carriages its population ethnically
across open countryside, Lithuanian, Visaginas has a
along the Šventoji river to unique atmosphere in a country
the scenic shores of Lake that is 85 per cent Lithuanian. It
Rubikiai with its 16 islands. was created in 1974 to house
Tickets are sold at the tourist the nuclear scientists who built
information centre. The old and then worked at the nearby
station boasts the Anykščiai Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant,
Northern Railway Museum, until recently the Baltic region’s
providing further insights into only nuclear power station.
train travel. Hidden in forests down a
single road, Visaginas has no
Environs discernable centre. High-rise
In Niūronys, 6 km (4 miles) housing blocks cover the town
north of Anykščiai, the Horse from east to west. The power
Museum hosts exhibitions on station was closed in December
various horse-related products. Lake Želva’s Ethnocosmology Centre, 2009, but a new plant may open
Rides on real horses, around the Molėtai Lakelands at the same site in the future.
p Aukštaitija National Park Tauragnai
The oldest and most beloved of Lithuania’s national parks,

Aukštaitija National Park was established in 1974 to protect
local biodiversity. About 60 per cent of the country’s plant Area of the Ignalina
map illustrated
species can be found here, in addition to ancient pine
forests, fort-hills, burial mounds and old thatched cottages
in villages such as Salos II. Palušė makes an ideal base for
exploring the 400-sq km (154-sq mile) park. The park’s central
point, Ladakalnis Hill, is its highest, from which five lakes are Key
visible. Rowing boats can be hired from Palušė, enabling Aukštaitija National Park
visitors to make a circular trip or drift at a leisurely pace
along the water trail.
Šeimatis
Lake
Mokas Stones Utenas
Lake
Tauragnas Lake
Taurapilis, one of Utenykštis
several ancient Tauragnai

fortifications found in
the park, is situated
above Lake Tauragnas,
affording extensive Sėla
views in all directions.
Lake
Baluošas
Stripeikiai
Ginuciai
Watermill
Lake
Pakasas
J
Kireikiai Ladakalnis Hill

175 m (574 ft)
. Beekeeping Museum
Sculptures of characters from Lithuanian folklore stand Salos
J
together on a grassy hillside with wooden hives, in the
village of Stripeikiai.
. Ladakalnis Hill
The best panoramic view
of the park can be
experienced from the hill
above Lake Linkmenas.
The area is noted for its
mesmerizing greenery
and clear lakes.
. Salos II Cultural Reserve

The ethnographic village is
arranged like a live, open-air
0 km 2
museum, with several well-
0 miles 2 preserved timber houses.
Beekeeping
Lithuanians have a long and Practical Information
enduring history of apiculture. Road Map D5.
Forest beekeeping, in which n Park Headquarters and Visitors’
bees lived in tree hollows and Centre, Palušė, (386) 53 135.
their keepers mounted elaborate 8 on foot or by bus, offered at
climbing apparatus to collect the the Park Headquarters. Rowing
honey, was widely practised in boats and canoes can be hired
the Middle Ages when beeswax during summer. - ∑ anp.lt
and honey were vital to the ∑ paluse.lt
economy. In the 15th century,
a law was passed to prosecute Transport
£ from Ignalina.
Unusually shaped beehives at the people who harmed the bees,
@ from Ignalina.
Beekeeping Museum or the trees.
Pabaluoše Trainiškis
In the village of Trainiškis
stands a mighty tree believed
to be more than 800 years old
J Trainškis Vaišniūnai and said to have once been a
site of pagan sacrifices.
Valčių
Pervežimas
Lake
Dringis
Lake
J Asalnai Gaveikėnai
Ignalina
Lake
Lūšiai Valčių Pervežimas Water Trail
Visitors can rent a boat for a circular
Palušé
trip around the park from lake to
lake, going via Valčių Pervežimas,
the water trail that links Lake
Baluošas and Lake Dringis.
Key
Main road
Other road
Railway
Trail
Gaveikėnai Watermill Water trail
One of several original watermills in the park,
Gaveikėnai Watermill was built around 1800. Park boundary
Today, it houses a café. Peak

LITHUANIA AREA BY AREA  273
WESTERN LITHUANIA
Isolated for centuries, the little towns and villages of Žemaitija,
the local name for the low-lying land of Western Lithuania, have
a mystical atmosphere. Rustic wooden farmsteads and
settlements are nestled between knolls and marshes.
Klaipėda and Šiauliai are charming cities with distinct
surroundings characterized by tiny, hidden lanes
with a surfeit of cafés and museums.
Žemaitija is the ancient heartland of Some of the surviving Germanic-style

Samogitia, a medieval pagan duchy that half-timbered houses, once used by
managed to repel the innumerable merchants, characterize the streets of
incursions of its hostile, mostly Christian the Old Town today.
neighbours. With stubborn determination A short ferry ride from Klaipėda lies the
the Samogitians fought off the crusaders Curonian Spit, with its towering dunes
for more than 250 years, before finally and scenic villages like Nida. Inland,
being absorbed into the Grand Duchy of quaint little towns, such as Šilutė and
Lithuania in 1422. It was the last corner of Kretinga, are easily reachable and a
Europe to be converted to Christianity and delight to stroll around. The quiet village
age-old rituals dedicated to pagan deities of Rusnė and the surrounding Nemunas
continued in more isolated parts until the Delta region attract many rare birds,
20th century. which breed in their lush marshes.
Klaipėda, the country’s only seaport city, Žemaitija National Park, close to Lake
is an ideal base for embarking on day-trips Plateliai, conceals a former Soviet missile
into Western Lithuania. Although the port base. Cycle paths stretch all along the
area was secretively closed off during the Lithuanian coast from Nida up to the
Soviet era, it has since reopened to cruise Latvian border and pass the coastal
ship and ferry passengers. Originally resorts of Palanga and Šventoji, both
known as Memel, Klaipėda was part of offering beaches, spas and all-night bars
Prussia and Germany for over 500 years. and clubs.
Pretty wooden houses along a street in Nida, a village in the Curonian Spit National Park
Boldly coloured weather vanes, Klaipėda
Exploring Western Lithuania

The northwest corner of Lithuania offers the twin attractions of
Žemaitija National Park, with its Soviet-era missile base, and the
memorable Orvidas Garden. The UNESCO-protected Curonian
Spit, a long and narrow strip of land between the Baltic Sea and
the Curonian Lagoon, is worth visiting for its towering dunes,
charming fishing villages, cycle paths and beaches. Western
Lithuania also gives an insight into the country’s unique
Catholic and pagan mysticism, which is keenly felt in small
towns such as Tytuvėnai and Šiluva.
MAŽEIKIAI
Sights at a Glance Skuodas Tirkšliai

Kaukolikai Viekšniai
Towns and Resorts Seda
Lenkimai
1 Šiauliai pp276–7 Liepāja
3 Šeduva
ŽEMAITIJA
NATIONAL PARK
4 Tytuvėnai
5 Šiluva ORVIDAS Eigirdžiai
6 Raseiniai
Šventoji
Darbėnai GARDEN
PLATELIAI TELŠIAI
nta i
7 Raudonė
8 Panemunė
a la
Tūbausiai S Rainiai
9 Jurbarkas PLUNGĖ Žlibinai
0 Telšiai PALANGA Kartena Žarėnai
q Mažeikiai KRETINGA Stalgėnai
w Plateliai
ja
M ini
e
r Plungė Varniai
D an
Giruliai Rietavas
y Klaipėda pp284–5 Vežalčiai ra
Lake
Gargždai Ait Lūkstas
u Kretinga
a
Jūr
i Palanga KLAIPĖDA
o Smiltynė
Veivirżėnai
a Šilutė SMILTYNE Mickai Kvėdarna
Ka
Priekulė
ipe d
Sights of Interest Švėkšna

N SPI T
Šilalė
L PA R K
Ašva
o
2 Hill of Crosses
sK
an Pajūris
al Saugos nys
e Orvidas Garden Tene
Curonian
ONIA
Lagoon Pagramantis
IONA
National Parks Žemaičių

Naumiestis Vainutas
Minija
t Žemaitija National Park pp282–3 Ventė
C UR
ŠILUTĖ
N AT
p Curonian Spit National Park

Rusnė Juknaičiai Tauragė
pp288–9 NEMUNAS
DELTA Lauksargiai
Area of Natural Beauty Usėnai
Zelenogradsk
s Nemunas Delta
Žukai
PANEMUNĖ
Kaliningrad
0 km 20
0 miles 20
Beach on the eastern shore of Lake Plateliai, Žemaitija National Park

WESTERN LITHUANIA  275
Getting Around
The A1 motorway between Kaunas and Klaipėda is the fastest east–
west route across the region. Buses serve the region well, and good
bases from which to explore it are Palanga, Kaunas, Šiauliai and
Klaipėda. Trains offer a less flexible means of transport, and even the
Kaunas–Klaipėda line makes a detour via Šiauliai. The regional airport,
at Palanga, provides international connections, most notably with the
transit hubs of Copenhagen and Rīga.
Rīga
Žagarė
Kriukai
Naujoji Skaistgirys Žeimelis
Akmenė
Dameliai
Joniškis
Pašvitinys
Ven Venta Kinkiai
t Linkuva
a
Pamūšis
Meškuičiai Muš
lpe
Z ižma
a
Ku
Tryškiai HILL OF Pakroujis

Kuršėnai CROSSES
Žeimiai Rozalimas
ŠIAULIAI Derveliai
Vent a
Uopyna Aukštelkė Lake

Bekyvos Radviliškis Panevėžys
Bubiai
ŠEDUVA
sa
Laikšės Sidariai
Be
Duby
Užventis Key
rže
Siaulėnai Motorway
Šiniša
Kiaunoriai
Main road
Karklėnai
Secondary road
Kražiai Kelmė TYTUVĖNAI
Grinkiškis Minor road
ŠILUVA Railway
Vosiliškis
Katauskiai International border
Nemakščiai
Upyna
Ilgiżiai
RASEINIAI
Skaudvilė
a
Arči
Ariogala
irza
Beb
Pašaltuonys
Šimkaičiai Juodaičiai
Erżvilkas
va
Stakiai ku
Ki
Eičiai
RAUDONĖ
M
Veliuona
itu
Kaunas
va
Nemunas
JURBARKAS Gelgaudiškis
Lukšiai
Slavikai
Šakiai
Griškabudis
N ova
Kudirkos Marijampolė
Naumiestis
Painting of the Madonna and Child, Tytuvėnai

1 Šiauliai with a vast collection of

historical, architectural and
Lithuania’s fourth-biggest city, Šiauliai first appeared in historical archaeological artifacts, spread
sources in 1236, the date of the Battle of the Sun (see p214). over 11 locations. The history of
A major industrial centre since the 18th century, it saw its the daily life of the townspeople
of Šiauliai is the focus of Aušra
population rise from 6,200 in 1866 to 23,600 at the outbreak of Avenue Palace. A special section
World War I. The war destroyed more than 60 per cent of the is dedicated to the repression of
city. Today, Šiauliai is enjoying a wave of development. New the Soviet post-war period.
shopping centres are being built, pedestrianized streets laid The Bicycle Museum reveals
and monuments renovated. The city’s most attractive part, with the story of cycling in Lithuania,
traditional houses and museums, is the Old Town. with almost 100 bicycles on
display, including a child’s
tricycle from 1905. Replicas of
historic bikes are also exhibited.
One of Lithuania’s very few Art
Nouveau buildings from the
early 20th century, the Chaim
Frenkel Villa, depicts Jewish
daily life in centuries past.
The Photography Museum,
housed in a reconstructed Art
Deco-style building, covers
the development of art and
photography in the city, and
holds contemporary exhibitions.
Old bicycle outside the Bicycle Museum, a part of the Aušra Museum R Cathedral of Sts Peter
and Paul
E Aušra Museum 140. Tel (41) 524 395. Open 10am–6pm Aušros Takas 3. Tel (41) 528 077.
Aušra Avenue Palace: Aušros 47. Tel (41) Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 5 7am, 7:30am, 5pm, 6pm Mon–
8 times vary. ∑ ausrosmuziejus.lt Fri; 8am, 10am, 5pm, 6pm Sat; 8am,
524 391. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
Bicycle Museum: Vilniaus 139. Tel (41) The Aušra Museum, founded in 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 6pm Sun.
524 395. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 1923, is the oldest museum A church has stood on this spot
11am–5pm Sat & Sun. Chaim Frenkel in the city. It was named in since 1445 and the precise loca-
Villa: Vilniaus 74. Tel (41) 524 389. Open honour of the first Lithuanian tion of the earlier wooden place
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & newspaper. The museum is a of worship is marked by a metal
Sun. Photography Museum: Vilniaus treasure trove of art and culture cross. The old church was
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 2 Hill of Crosses

Kryžių kalnas
Practical Information Jurgaičių village. Road: Map C4.
Road Map C4. * 115,000. @ from Šiauliai. Tel (41) 370 860.
n Vilniaus gatvė 213, (41) 523 ∑ kryziukalnas.lt
110. _ Saulės Žiedas Folk
Festival (Jul), Šiauliai City Days One of Lithuania’s most awe-
(Sep). ∑ tic.siauliai.lt inspiring sights, this saddle-
Transport shaped knoll in a field filled with
£ Višinkio gatvė 44, S of thousands of crosses, crucifixes
Draugystės prospektas. and rosaries is an insight into
@ Tilžės gatvė 109. the significance of Catholicism
to Lithuania.
Crosses started appearing
across the world, from Austria on the hill after the ruthless
Prominent tower of the Cathedral of to Zambia, this museum is a suppression of the 1831
Sts Peter and Paul haven for catlovers. Established uprising against Tsarist Russian
in May 1990, the museum has rule. By the end of the 19th
burned down and in 1625, the exhibits of cats in every con- century, 150 large crosses stood
existing one was built in stone ceivable pose cramming the here, 200 by 1914, and many
to give it more permanence. display area. They have been more by the time the Soviets
Seen from afar, the cathedral’s crafted from porcelain, came to occupy
gleaming white 70-m (230-ft) amber, marble, crys- Lithuania in 1940.
tower makes the building look tal, glass and other Seen by the
more modern than it actually is. materials. There atheist regime
The cathedral is built in are cats in as an unneces-
Renaissance style with some stained-glass sary religious
features typical of medieval windows, cats in symbol, the Hill
architecture. Its thick walls are artistic photo- of Crosses was
accompanied by details that graphs, cats on Colourful wooden cats, hacked down in
appear to have been defensive postage stamps, in Cat Museum 1961, but the crosses
but in fact were not. On the books and on cards. reappeared soon after.
southern side of the cathedral is Interesting odes to cats have It was bulldozed in 1973 and
Lithuania’s oldest sundial. Sts been collected in over 4,000 again in 1975, but the crosses
Peter and Paul Church was ele- poems written in various kept appearing. Finally, the hill
vated to cathedral status in 1997. languages. There are lamps was left in peace. By the time
with cats as ornamentation as Pope John Paul II visited it, in
Sundial Square well as furniture and a set of 1993, it had crosses and religious
Ežero gatvė. banisters with delightful sculptures from all over the
A sundial was erected in the feline designs. country and around the world.
square in 1986 to mark the
750th anniversary of the Battle
of the Sun. The slender sundial,
surmounted by a sculpture of a
golden archer, towers over
Lake Talšos.
Sundial Square is laid out like
an amphitheatre and brings
together three significant
symbols of the city – the archer
Šaulys, after whom, according
to legend, the city was named;
the sun, images of which can be
found all over Šiauliai; and time,
represented on the square by the
numbers of the clock, 12, 3, and
6, which when brought together
form the date of the battle.
E Cat Museum
Žuvininkų 18. Tel 6836 9844.
With almost 10,000 exhibits,
not just from Lithuania but Collection of crosses in all shapes and sizes at the Hill of Crosses
3 Šeduva Holy Stairs was modelled on

the Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs) in
Šiauliai, Panevėžys. @ from Šiauliai, Rome. Each of the steps, which
Panevėžys. pilgrims mounted on their
knees, contains a sacred relic
The little town of Šeduva brought here from Jerusalem
is a composite of wooden in the 1730s.
houses preserved as a historic
monument. One of its main
sights is the twin-towered 5 Šiluva
Church of the Holy Cross. Built Road Map C5. * 800. @ from
in 1649, the church elegantly Šiauliai. _ Šilinės Pilgrimage (Sep).
blends Renaissance and
Baroque elements. Šiluva is one of Lithuania’s great
Šeduva’s most delightful spot pilgrimage places. Legend has
is the mid-19th-century estate it that 400 years ago, the town
of Prussian Baron Otto von Crucifix above the altar, Friary of the was the site of a miraculous
Ropp, located 2 km (1 mile) east Blessed Virgin Mary, Tytuvėnai apparition of a weeping Virgin
of town. Aside from the original Mary holding the infant Jesus
redbrick buildings, which have 4 Tytuvėnai in her arms. In the late 16th
given the estate the local name Road Map C5. * 3,000. £ from century, as Šiluva became
Raudondvaris (Red Manor), Šiauliai. @ from Šiauliai. ∑ trp.lt Calvinist, its last priest buried a
there is a school and a hotel, bundle of Catholic documents
and the lakeside grounds are a Once the site of a 13th-century and a miracle-working painting
pleasure to stroll through. hilltop fortress, Tytuvėnai of the Virgin Mary in an iron
became the secluded setting for box in the grounds of the
Environs a magnificent monastery and ruined church.
The grounds of Burbiškis Manor, the church of the Friary of the In 1610, the Virgin Mary
12 km (7 miles) east of Šeduva, Blessed Virgin Mary in the appeared, standing on a rock
are decorated with sculptures of 1630s. The buildings were before children tending their
lions, fauns and historical figures created for the Franciscans herds. The box was later
created in 1912 by sculptor and set amid rolling hills and discovered by the rock and, as
Kazimieras Ulianskas. A dazzling tranquil lakes. The courtyard of fame about the apparition grew,
display of tulips adorns the the monastery is decorated with a wooden chapel was built
manor grounds in spring, when faded frescoes, while a beautiful close by. It was replaced in 1785
the Tulip Festival is celebrated. painting on the wooden sacristy by the Church of the Nativity
door depicts the Resurrection. of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
+ Burbiškis Manor The highlight of the church’s The painting of Mary, now
Burbiškis village. Tel (422) 42 001 colourful interior is an elaborate embellished by a golden frame,
or (673) 69 836. Open 11am–8pm altar encircled by four Baroque was hung on the altar. The
Wed–Sun. & _ Burbiškis Tulip figures of Franciscan saints. In painting is concealed, except
Festival (mid-May). the grounds, the Chapel of the on feast days, by a 1920
Bright evening view of the lakeside buildings at Raudondvaris, near Šeduva

Façade of the Neo-Gothic castle at the Raudonė estate, seen from across its lush grounds
painting of the Annunciation. hilltop Church of the Ascension, Environs

On his visit in 1993, Pope John built in 1729, survived the war, Veliuona, a village 10 km
Paul II prayed at the church. as did the Independence Statue (6 miles) east of Raudonė, is
The obelisk-style structure of in the town’s main square. known for its secluded fort-hill
the Church of the Apparition Created by Vincas Grybas where Gediminas (see p216) was
of the Blessed Virgin Mary, (1890–1941) in 1934, the statue reputedly slain.
which was completed in 1924, shows a man in a flowing cloak
can be seen from afar. and bast shoes, together with
a bear he has tamed. The bear 8 Panemunė
is a symbol of Samogitia, the Road Map C5. Tel (447) 41 729.
independent duchy that Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. @ from
fought the Teutonic Order in Kaunas. ∑ panemunespilis.lt
the 13th century, but it was
later ceded to the Grand Duchy Panemunė boasts a castle with
of Lithuania. two tall circular towers and
red-tiled rooftops. Most of the
building was erected by a family
7 Raudonė of Hungarian nobles during
the reign of Stefan Bathory, the
Road Map C5. Tel (447) 45 445.
Transylvanian prince who
Open Jun–Aug: 10am–4pm daily. &
ruled the Polish-Lithuanian
Originally a 16th-century family Commonwealth between 1575
estate owned by Prussian and 1586. Two centuries later,
timber merchants, the castle at the castle was bought by the
Raudonė was acquired in 1810 Polish-Lithuanian Gelgaudas
by Platon Zubov, once a family. The Tsarist authorities
favourite consort of Catherine seized it after Antanas Gelgaudas
the Great. Catherine had played led the 1831 uprising (see p218).
an important role in obtaining Today, the castle belongs to the
Raseiniai’s attractive main square, featuring much of the Polish-Lithuanian Vilnius Academy of Art.
the Independence Statue Commonwealth during the
partitions (see p215). After her
6 Raseiniai death, the count lived in
Road Map C5. * 37,000.
seclusion at Rundāle Palace
@ from Kaunas. (see pp172–3) in Courland.
The count’s daughter gave
An important Samogitian town, the family castle in Raudonė
Raseiniai played a crucial role in its current Neo-Gothic appear-
the region’s history. In 1941, the ance and its tall and slender
town witnessed a fierce four- fairytale tower. Destroyed by
day battle between hundreds the retreating Germans at the
of German and Soviet tanks. By end of World War II, the tower
the end of World War II, 90 per was rebuilt in 1968 and today
cent of Raseiniai had been offers a panoramic view of the One of the castle’s tall circular towers
destroyed. Miraculously, the Nemunas Valley. in Panemunė
9 Jurbarkas The terrible event took place on

the nights of 24 and 25 June
Kaunas. n Vydūno 19, (447) 51 485. 1941, shortly after Nazi Germany
∑ jurbarkotic.lt invaded the then Soviet Union.
Today, a granite cross marks the
The ancient Karšuva Forest, spot and the Rainiai Chapel of
about 3 km (2 miles) west of the Suffering, consecrated in 1991,
tiny industrial town of Jurbarkas, stands nearby. Just 30 km
was the site of one of the (19 miles) southeast of Telšiai,
earliest fortresses built by the Šatrija Hill offers splendid views
crusaders on the Nemunas river, of the Žemaitija landscape.
in 1259. The pagan Lithuanians Lake Lūkstas, 40 km (25 miles)
erected their own castle above south of Telšiai, has beaches
the Imsrė river, a tributary of the that liven up in July during the
Nemunas, and both sides fought Blues Night festival.
bitter battles for the next 150
years. Although nothing rem-
ains of the castles, the forest can Embellished interior of the Cathedral of q Mažeikiai
be explored. One of Lithuania’s St Anthony of Padua, Telšiai Road Map C4. * 57,000. £ from
largest and most secluded Šiauliai. @ from Šiauliai. n Ventos
forests, the 427-sq-km 0 Telšiai 8a, (443) 67 177. ∑ mazeikiutvic.lt
(165-sq- mile) stretch has Road Map C4. * 47,000. £ from
enchanting trails leading Vilnius, Šiauliai, Klaipėda. @ from A minor village in the mid-19th
through its towering pines. Vilnius, Šiauliai, Klaipėda. n Turgaus century, Mažeikiai rapidly grew
21, (444) 53 010. ∑ telsiaitic.lt into Lithuania’s eighth-largest
Environs city by the end of the 20th
In Gelgaudiškis, 10 km (6 miles) According to legend, Telšiai was century. The Vilnius–Liepāja
east of Jurbarkas, lie the ruins of founded by a knight named railway, which reached Mažeikiai
the 19th-century manor of the Džiugas on a hill above Lake in 1869, was responsible for its
Gelgaudas family, the Polish- Mastis. In 1765, the Franciscans initial growth; it is also home to
Lithuanian ancestors of actor built a church here, which the Baltics’ only oil refinery.
Sir John Gielgud. The manor became the Cathedral of St The Mažeikiai Museum has
boasted a lavish interior with Anthony of Padua, after Telšiai displays on the town’s develop-
paintings, silver, crystal, bronze was made a diocese in 1926. ment and regional folklore, and
and porcelain works until it was The second-floor gallery has its paintings by Alfonsas Dargis
ransacked during World War II. own altar and paintings framed (1909–96), a Lithuanian artist
Today, the manor hosts village by Corinthian columns. These who joined the New York
festivals and music evenings in include an altar painting of Modernist movement.
its grounds. St Anthony and Infant Jesus,
Mount Rambynas, 60 km embellished with faux gold and Environs
(37 miles) west of Jurbarkas, held aloft by angels garbed in The 4,000-ha (9,884-acre)
is a 46-m (50-yard) escarpment, pink and green. Kamanos State Reserve, 20 km
and a mystical location for (12 miles) east of Mažeikiai,
Lithuanians. A pagan altar Environs protects one of the region’s most
that once stood here was One of the worst massacres by valuable clayfields. Richly diverse
used for rituals up until the the Soviets took place in the in flora and fauna, the reserve
19th century. Today, the hill forests near Rainiai, 4 km has an area of marshland as well
offers views over Kaliningrad. (2 miles) southeast of Telšiai. as lakes and tiny islands.
In Viekšniai, a small town
15 km (9 miles) southeast of
Mažeikiai, the Pharmacy
Museum is considered miracu-
lous, having survived two fires
that devastated the town.
E Mažeikiai Museum
V Kudirkos 6. Tel (443) 26 037. Open
8am–5pm Mon–Thu (until 3:45 Fri). &
Y Kamanos State Reserve
Tel (425) 59 285. & 8
E Pharmacy Museum
Tilto 3. Tel (443) 37 420.
Rainiai Chapel of Suffering, commemorating the massacre in 1941 Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat. &
Samogitian figures and a park

featuring the Thunder Oak
tree, now a natural monument.
The manor also houses the
Žemaičiai Art Museum, which
displays works by Western
Lithuanian artists.
Environs
About 2,236 of Plungė’s jews
died in the Holocaust. Much of
the killing took place in Kaušėnai,
a village 4 km (2 miles) west of
town. Here, a series of moving
wooden sculptures have been
Boats on the eastern shore of Lake Plateliai, bordering Plateliai village carved by Jacob Bunka (b.1922),
chairman of Plungė’s 13-member
w Plateliai creatures, carvings and rock Jewish community.
Road Map B4. * 1,000. @ from
paintings of pagan and religious Gandinga Hill, 5 km (3 miles)
Plungė. n Didžioji 8, (448) 49 231. imagery, painted missile shells southwest of Plungė, offers a
_ Shrove Tuesday Carnival (Feb/Mar). and a disused Soviet tank. panoramic view of the Žemaitija
Hidden gardens appear out of forests. A fortress, Gandinga,
The administrative centre of nowhere and there is no set once stood here, built as a
Žemaitija National Park (see path, adding to the maze-like defence against the Teutonic
pp282–3), Plateliai is a sleepy feel. The dark caverns conceal Knights. Pagan burial grounds
lakeside village. It has the further oddities, and a pond- dating from the 9th century
wooden Church of Sts Peter side hut hidden among trees is have been discovered nearby.
and Paul (1744) and a park that reputedly the home of pixies Another remarkable outdoor
was the grounds of a manor. and gnomes. museum is the Museum of
The Witch’s Ash, Lithuania’s big- Unique Rocks in Mosėdis, 40 km
gest ash tree, which stands in (25 miles) northwest of Plungė.
the park, has many legends r Plungė Exhibits range from a display of
attached to it. One involves Road Map C5. * 39,000. fossils and rock fragments inside
a baker who threw a loaf of £ from Šiauliai, Klaipėda. @ from a restored watermill to a park
bread at a witch sitting on Šiauliai, Klaipėda. n Dariaus ir Gireno full of mossy boulders and
its branches. The loaf is still 27, (448) 55 108. ∑ visitplunge.lt crude stone sculptures. The
visible – the knobbly bit museum was founded in 1979
where the branches divide. The town of Plungė is the by Dr Vaclovas Intas.
Across the road on Didžioji main gateway to Žemaitija
Street, elaborate Shrovetide National Park (see pp282–3). E Žemaičiai Art Museum
masks are displayed in the One of Lithuania’s most opulent Parko 1. Tel (448) 52 492.
manor barn. These are worn manors, the well-preserved Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
during the Shrove Tuesday Plungė Manor was built by E Museum of Unique Rocks
Carnival. The most popular Mykolas Oginskis, a descendant Salantų 2. Tel (440) 76 291. Open
sight is Castle Island, which of a family of Lithuanian nobles. 8am–6pm (10am–6pm Sat & Sun).
takes its name from a fortress It includes 16 sculptures of Closed Nov–Apr: Sat & Sun. & 8
that stood on the nearest
island of Pilies.
e Orvidas Garden
Orvidų sodyba-muziejus
Road Map B4. Tel (613) 28 624.
Open June: 10am–7pm Tue–Sun,
July–May: 10am–7pm Wed–Sun. &
The creative work of local mystic

and genius Vilius Orvidas
(1952–92), this garden is one of
Eastern Europe’s most bizarre
sights. Eclectic and enormous, it
is a complex network of crosses
and tombstones, boulders and
treetrunks, sculptures of odd Plungė Manor, seen across a lake, with a sculpture in the foreground
t Žemaitija National Park Key

Minor road
Shrouded in folklore and legend, the Žemaitija region was the Hiking trail
last stretch of Europe to accept Christianity. Pagan gods were Park boundary
worshipped here till the 19th century, and carvings and
crosses in the villages still blend Catholic and pagan imagery.
Established in 1991, the Žemaitija National Park spreads 0 km 2
across 220 sq km (85 sq miles), with its headquarters and
0 miles 2
information centre in the town of Plateliai. There are several
Barstyčiai
hiking trails that meander around Lake Plateliai through
isolated stretches of forest. Campsites and rural farmsteads
cater to tourists.
Mikytai
Pūčkoriai
Visvainiai
Virkšai
. Mikytai Hill and Devil’s Footprint Stone
The forest-covered “sacred hill” of Mikytai is believed by
local people to be haunted. On the hill’s northern
slope, the Devil’s Footprint Stone was once used for
pagan sacrifices.
Lake
Plateliai Plateliai
Beržoras
Lake
Beržoras
Church of St
Lake Ilgis
Stanislav in
Beržoras
This church (1746) Grigaičiai
is made of spruce
Godeliai
logs. Its Chapels of
Salantai
the Cross were
destroyed by the
Babrungènai
Soviets but restored
in 2001.
KEY
Mill-Gallery
1 Godeliai has a rare collection A stone watermill,
of obscure paintings and converted into a Plunge
crucifixes in its Museum of folk art gallery,
Folk Art. stands in the
2 Plateliai serves as the riverside village of
park’s main service and infor- Babrungėnai, once
mation centre. famed for its
beaver hunters.
. Žemaičių Kalvarija VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Churches and white
Chapels of the Cross give
this town a spiritual
Road Map C4. n Didžioji 8,
atmosphere. The Church
Plateliai, (448) 49 231;
Festival, held in July each
to book, 86778 6576. 
year, is its main attraction. ∑ zemaitijosnp.lt
Mill-Gallery: Open 9am–6pm
daily. Plokštinė Former Soviet
Missile Base: 8 book at the
park’s information centre.
Transport
@ from Plungė to
Žemaičių Kalvarija.
Mound of Šarnelė
Žemaičių
Kalvarija Excavations on this
hill, in Šarnelė village,
have revealed that it
Gegrenai was a small fortified
town in the third
century BC.
Skurvydai
Platakiai
Plokštine
. Plokštinė Former Soviet Missile Base

Between 1962 and 1978, this secret Soviet rocket site,
with its recently patched up silos, aimed missiles at cities
in Western Europe.
Folk Legends of Lake Plateliai

Lake Plateliai had tremendous significance to the
pagans of the historical regions of Samogitia and
Žemaitija. Drownings occasionally occur here and
according to one of the many legends associated
with the lake, a great white horse lives in the water
and takes the life of at least one swimmer every year.
The water level has risen in recent times and
archaeologists diving in the lake have excavated
standing stones with pagan symbols under the
surface. To this day, Plateliai, on the lake’s western
Yacht moored along the shore of shore, celebrates many colourful traditional
Lake Plateliai Samogitian festivals.

y Klaipėda E Lithuania Minor History

Museum
First mentioned in 1252, when the Christian Livonian Order Didžioji vandens 2. Tel (46) 410 524.
built a fortress named Memelburg at the mouth of the Danė Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 4pm
Fri). &
river, Klaipėda for many centuries was an important Prussian
Lithuania Minor is what the
port city called Memel. Today, as Lithuania’s only sea port, local people call East Prussia,
Klaipėda is thriving, despite serious damage during World War which today is the territory of
II and its status as a military-industrial centre during the Kaliningrad as well as Klaipėda.
Soviet years. For those who enjoy walking, central Klaipėda The Lithuania Minor History
and its Old Town, with narrow, criss-crossing streets, is a Museum, inside one of the Old
Town’s loveliest buildings, tells
delightful place to explore. Half-timbered buildings and
the region’s history. Coins,
cobbled lanes conceal gift shops, galleries and café-bars. clothes, maps, postcards, old
photographs and models give
a glimpse of the lives and the
differences between the local
German- and Lithuanian-
speaking communities before
World War II. Situated opposite
the museum is the town’s old
post office.
E Blacksmiths’ Museum
Šaltkalvių 2a. Tel (46) 410 526.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 4pm
Fri). & 8
Black metal crosses, fences and
cemetery gates in a garden
beside an old working smithy
are among this museum’s
exhibits. Some of the crosses
Visitors and local people relaxing in cafés in Klaipėda were rescued from destruction
when the Sculpture Park
Ännchen of Tharau the original Ännchen of Tharau replaced the city’s main ceme-
Teatro aikštė. statue, made by local artists, tery in the 1970s. Lithuania’s
The heart of Klaipėda’s Old Town was placed in the middle of cross-crafting tradition, in metal
is Theatre Square. A statue the fountain. and in wood, was recognized by
called Ännchen of Tharau, which UNESCO in 2001.
stands in front of the theatre, is E Castle Museum
the focal point of the fountain Pilies 4. Tel (46) 410 527. Open 10am
dedicated to Simon Dach –5pm Tue–Sat (to 4pm Fri). &
(1605–59), one of the city’s Not much remains of the
distinguished personalities. Born 17th-century castle that houses
in Klaipėda, then known as the Castle Museum. The castle
Memel, Dach became a was built on the foundations
leading Prussian poet from of the 1252 fortress when
the late 1630s until his Memel was part of the Duchy
death. He is well known of Prussia. In 2002, an
throughout Germany for exhibition opened inside
his songs, hymns and one of the ramparts,
dialect poems, such as illustrating the develop-
Ännchen of Tharau, written ment of the fortress and the
in 1637. city. The exhibits on display
The original statue was include authentic furniture
created in 1912, but it and re-created models. The Old wooden clock inside the exceptional
mysteriously vanished on highlight is a Renaissance- Clock Museum
the eve of World War II. era gold ring encrusted
Adolf Hitler made a with diamonds. Today, this E Clock Museum
speech from the theatre castle has become one Liepų 12. Tel (46) 410 414; 410 413
balcony behind its of the most recog- (excursions). Open noon–6pm Tue–
original location, on nized symbols Sat, noon–5pm Sun. & 8
23 March 1939. In Statue of Ännchen of Tharau in associated with A fascinating insight into the
1989, a replica of Theatre Square modern Klaipėda. development of man’s attempts
to measure time, from sundials near Königsberg and settled VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to atomic clocks, is the focus of in South Africa in 1949. Heavily
this unique museum. The Clock influenced by the Norwegian Practical Information
Museum was opened in 1984 Symbolist painter Edvard Road Map B5. * 180,000.
inside a villa built in 1820 by Munch (1863–1944), Domšaitis n Turgaus 7, (46) 412 186.
John Simpson, an English won recognition for his art in _ Klaipėda Jazz Festival (mid-
merchant. Reconstructions of inter-war Germany and later in Jul), Sea Festival (late Jul).
∑ klaipedainfo.lt
ancient calendars, sun, fire, South Africa. The gallery exhibits
water and sand clocks, and 20th-century Lithuanian art as Transport
timepieces showing the well as a permanent exhibition £ Priestočio gatvė 1. @
changes in the faces and of works by Domšaitis. Priestočio gatvė. g New Port,
mechanisms of clocks from Dedicated to the author of Nemuno 8, (46) 365 018, (46) 311
Renaissance times form the bulk the first Lithuanian book, 117; Old Port, Danės 1, 86203
of the exhibits. Martynas Mažvydas (1510–63), 4561, (46) 311 117. Jun–Aug:
The pleasant courtyard, the Sculpture Park is situated 6:30pm–2:15am daily, Sep–May:
featuring a large sundial, is a behind the gallery. Until the at least hourly 6:30pm–2am.
popular venue for music, dance 1970s it was the site reserved
and poetry evenings. The house for the city’s cemetery. It covers and intriguing sculptures by
next door was built by another almost 10 ha (25 acres) and is various artists. New works are
English merchant and indus- scattered mainly with abstract added to the park each year.
trialist, Mae Lean. In 1905, it
was reconstructed in the Art
Nouveau style. The Neo-Gothic
post office close by is another
striking building in the
neighbourhood.
E Picture Gallery and

Sculpture Park
Liepų 33. Tel (46) 410 412.
Open noon–6pm Tue–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun. &
The city’s main state-run art
gallery is named after Pranas
Domšaitis (1880–1965), a
Lithuanian artist who was born Unique creations laid out in the Sculpture Park
Klaipėda Railway Station

1 km (0.6 mile)
1 Ännchen of Tharau Picture

LA
Gallery and Bus Station

IV
2 Castle Museum 1 km (0.6 mile)

U
Sculpture Park
SK
3 Lithuania Minor History

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Car Ferry
1 km (0.6 mile)
0 metres 200
0 yards 200

u Kretinga created by the French landscape

Road Map B5. * 41,000.
architect Edouard André
£ from Klaipėda. @ from Klaipėda. (1840–1911). Since 1963, the
palace has housed the Amber
This pretty town is based Museum, which exhibits 4,500
around a 17th-century pieces, including some unusual
Franciscan monastery, a manor ones such as amber with trapped
house, now the Kretinga prehistoric insects and plants.
Museum, and gardens that At the far end of the palace’s
stretch alongside a stream grounds is Birutės Hill, said to be
and open up into a park. The where the future wife of Grand
Franciscans played a major Duke Kęstutis tended a pagan
role in developing the town, sacred fire before he wed her.
particularly in independent Close by is one of Lithuania’s
inter-war Lithuania when they best-known sculptures, Eglė,
opened a college specializing Queen of the Grassy Snakes (1960),
in agriculture and beekeeping. inspired by a fairytale.
They also arranged a Lourdes- Locals and visitors enjoying the sandy
style grotto in the park with beach in Palanga Environs
an image of the Virgin Mary. The quiet fishing village of
One of the highlights of the i Palanga Šventoji, 15 km (9 miles) north
Kretinga Museum is the Winter Road Map B5. * 16,000. k 5 km
of Palanga, is blessed with
Garden, originally built when (3 miles) N of town. £ from Klaipėda. windswept dunes. It was a
Count Josef Tyszkiewicz @ from Klaipėda. n Vytauto 94, thriving port in the 16th and
reconstructed the manor in (460) 48 811. _ Summer Feast (Jun). 17th centuries. An attraction
1875. Destroyed during World ∑ palangatic.lt here is Fisherman’s Daughters
War II, these gardens were (1982), a statue of three girls
re-created in 1987 and today The coastal town of Palanga, dancing on the dunes.
house around 600 plants. first mentioned in a 13th-
Other museum exhibits century land partition pact E Amber Museum
include furniture and paintings between the Teutonic Order Vytauto 17. Tel (460) 51 319.
rescued from the Tyszkiewicz and the Livonians, became a Open Jun–Aug: 10am–8pm Tue–Sat,
mansions in Kretinga and permanent part of Lithuania 11am–7pm Sun; Sep–May: 11am–5pm
Palanga, iron crosses that are in 1435. Today, it is a popular Tue–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun. & 8
a blend of Catholic and pagan beach resort, with its dune-and- ∑ pgm.lt
imagery and Curonian clothing pine-bordered sands stretching
and jewellery. The Church 18 km (11 miles). It also has
of the Annunciation has a boulevards crammed with o Smiltynė
towering steeple and an restaurants, clubs and bars, Road Map B5. * 100.
ornate interior with giving it a carnival-like atmos- g from Klaipėda.
17th-century paintings. phere. The pier, first built in
1882, is a popular spot to Officially part of Klaipėda city
E Kretinga Museum watch the sunset. (see pp284–5), Smiltynė is the
Vilniaus 20. Tel (445) 77 323. A Neo-Renaissance palace northernmost settlement on
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 was built in the 1890s by the the Curonian Spit, directly facing
- = ∑ kretingosmuziejus.lt Tyszkiewicz family, with grounds Klaipėda’s busy port. In earlier
times, the spit was the main land
route used by dispatch riders,
postmen and the military,
between the Prussian cities of
Königsberg and Memel, modern
Kaliningrad and Klaipėda
respectively. However, the final
ferry trip was disrupted by
storms or trapped ice. In 1525,
an inn was established in
Sandkrug (Sand Inn), as Smiltynė
became known.
A string of elegant villas line
the water’s edge. The town’s star
attraction, however, is the
Sea Museum. It is located in
Kopgalis Fortress, a sea bastion
Tropical conservatory in Kretinga Museum’s Winter Garden, Kretinga built by Prussia in 1865.
Lietuvininkų Street in the town of Šilutė
The main highlights are the for German troops after 1944, and ice melt, 20 per cent of the
regular dolphin and sea lion and was an official unit of the delta gets flooded, attracting
shows. Permits must be Gulag from 1948 to 1955. 200 species of birds to breed,
purchased for photography. Today, it comprises the Macikai while hundreds of other species
Concentration Camp Museum migrate through the area every
E Sea Museum and a grave site. year. A bird ringing station at
Smiltynės 3. Tel (46) 492 250. Ventė is one of the oldest in
Open Oct–Apr: 10:30am–5pm E Šilutė Museum Europe, dating from 1929.
Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 10:30am–6pm Lietuvininkų 36. Tel (441) 62 207. The floods annually threaten
Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug: to 6:30pm). & Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8 to cut off Rusnė, located 11 km
8 - = ∑ muziejus.lt E Macikai Concentration (7 miles) southeast of Ventė.
Camp Museum A Lutheran church, built from
Macikai. Tel (441) 62 207. 1809 to 1827, is a sign of Rusnė’s
pCuronian Spit Open mid-May–Oct: 11am–3pm East Prussian background. It was
National Park Tue–Sat. 8 changed into a sports hall in
See pp288–9.
the Soviet period, but reverted
to receiving congregations
s Nemunas Delta in 1994. An ethnographic
a Šilutė Road Map B5. * 1,700.
farmstead gives a snapshot of
@ from Šilutė. ∑ nemunodelta.lt past life in the delta region.
Road Map B5. * 21,500.
£ from Klaipėda. @ from Klaipėda. Almost 8 km (5 miles)
n Lietuvininkų 4, Parko 2, (441) 77 The low-lying delta of the northwest from Rusnė is the
785. ∑ siluteinfo.lt Nemunas, Lithuania’s largest village of Minija, situated where
river as it streams into the the Minija river meets the
Originally the site of an inn Curonian Lagoon, has great Nemunas Delta. The river serves
for travellers riding between potential for outdoor activities. as the main thoroughfare in
Klaipėda and Kaliningrad, Šilutė The wetlands, protected as a the village. Protected as
became a part of the German regional park, are a popular spot architectural monuments,
Empire in 1871. It was seized by for angling and bird-watching. 19th-century wooden houses
Lithuania in 1923, but annexed Every spring, when the snow stand on both riverbanks.
by Nazi Germany 15 years later.
German influence is still
visible in the low, red-tiled roofs
of the public buildings. On tree-
lined Lietuvininkų Street, the
tiny Šilutė Museum displays
18th-century furniture and
folk-themed exhibits. The
Evangelical Lutheran Church,
built in 1926, is decorated with
startlingly colourful murals of
biblical scenes.
Environs
Just 3 km (2 miles) northeast of
Šilutė, Macikai was used as a
German prisoner-of-war camp
from 1939, then a Soviet camp The Nemunas Delta countryside, near Šilutė
p Curonian Spit National Park Klaipėda
A narrow 98-km (61-mile) strip of land on the Baltic Coast,

the Curonian Spit (Kuršių nerija) was formed 5,000 years ago.
Juodkrantė
Its landscape consists largely of pine forests, dunes and sandy BALTIC
SEA Area of the
beaches. The park’s forests are rich in wildlife such as roe deer, map illustrated
elk, foxes and wild boars. The dunes that tower over the Nida
village of Nida fall like cliffs into the Curonian Lagoon and
villages have been buried beneath the shifting sands. The
Curonian Spit National Park was created in 1991 to preserve Key
the dunes, lagoons and surrounding area. The national park, Curonian Spit National Park
which covers most of the spit, has been a UNESCO World
Heritage Site since 2000.
. Nida
The highly characteristic red-and-blue
fishermen’s cottages in Nida have
remained unchanged for centuries. Some
ancient weatherbeaten fishing boats lie in
the gardens outside the cottages.
Baltic Beach
The entire length of the spit on the
side of the Baltic Sea is one long
sandy beach. Areas adjacent to the
a
villages are popular in summer, but

e
cS
other parts are little visited. Parking

lti
throughout the spit is allowed only

Ba
at designated parking areas.
Preila
. Parnidis Dune
Looming 52 m (171 ft) above Nida Vecekrug Dune, the
Nida, Parnidis (Great) Dune offers highest wooded dune
stunning views and is one of the (67.2 m/220.5 ft), is
highest points on the spit. A bypassed by taking
sundial was erected here in 1995. the cycling track.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp 330–31
. Hill of Witches VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Comically
demonic wooden Practical Information
statues, such as Road Map B5. n Taikos 4, Nida,
this ghoulish (469) 52 345. Bike rentals can be
figure, lurk arranged at the centre. &
alongside a path ∑ visitneringa.com or
through the pine ∑ nerija.lt
Juodkrante forest behind
Juodkrantė. The Transport
statues were set @ Naglių 18e, Nida, (469) 52 859.
up by a group g Naglių 14, Nida, (469) 51 101.
of local sculptors Several operators offer cruises
in the 1980s. in vessels, including a replica
kurėnas. Local trips, as well as
excursions across the lagoon or
along the shoreline to the Dead
Dunes, are available.
Dead Dunes
These once-shifting
dunes are now held in
place with vegetation
and offer a sanctuary to
birds, animals and plants.
Paths stretch from
Avikalnio Dune in the
north to Agilo Dune
in the south.
Forest Trails
It is possible to walk or cycle
the entire length of the spit.
The path, indicated by the
dotted red line on the map,
Prevalka takes visitors past isolated
stretches of sandy beach.
0 km 2
0 miles 2
Shifting Dunes
In the 17th century, when
the forests on the Curonian
Spit were cut down to fuel
industry and supply constant
military campaigns, the
mountainous dunes were released.
In the Baltic winds, the sand
started to shift up to 20 m (66 ft) Parnidis Dune, seen from the harbour
Key a year in places, burying entire at Nida
villages. It was not until the
Main road 19th century, when a vast number of trees were planted to
Trail reforest the area, that the moving dunes were stopped.
Ferry route

TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 292–307

Where to Eat and Drink 308–331
Shopping in Estonia, Latvia
Entertainment in Estonia,
Latvia and Lithuania 344–355
Outdoor Activities
and Specialist Holidays 356–361
292  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The Baltic States offer every form of accom early autumn. In smaller towns and the
modation, from luxury hotels and citycentre countryside, it is very easy to find a place to
hostels to rural guesthouses and lakeside spa stay for the night. Booking is straightforward
complexes. Although there is an abundance as even the smallest guesthouses have
of goodquality midrange and budget stay their own website and are advertised
options in the three capital cities of Tallinn, through several other sources as well. The
Rīga and Vilnius, it is still advisable to book in recommended options on pages 296–307
advance during late spring, summer and will help you get your hotel search started.
rarity, although fitness centres,

spas and saunas are common,
as is high-quality cuisine and
Wi-Fi access (although an extra
charge is sometimes levied).
Modern Hotels
Affordable, good-quality
accommodation is readily
available throughout Estonia,
Latvia and Lithuania. There is a
wide choice of modern hotel
accommodation in the mid-
price range in all areas within
The thatched guesthouse at Toomalõuka Tourist Farm, Saaremaa Island, Estonia (see p298) the three Baltic States.
Most of the larger towns and
Booking hotel there are significant cities provide a variety of modern
Reservations can be made by discounts during the off-season hotels, although only a handful
telephone, email, through months. It is also worth keeping are located in the Old Town
hotel websites, and via online an eye out for special offers and areas of Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius.
reservation sites such as discounts, or package deals. Most of the hotels can be found
booking.com. For more out-of- either downtown or in slightly
the-way locations, there are more peripheral locations. The
specialist tour operators as well Tipping quality of modern hotels can
as websites run by local tourist Generally, it is not customary vary considerably so it is always
authorities and associations of to tip taxi drivers, bar staff sensible to do some research
hotel business owners. Local and porters in the Baltic States. prior to booking, such as
tourist information offices can As a rule of thumb though, tip checking the website and some
also book rooms, and can be those who provide you with independent guest reviews.
helpful if upon arrival you find especially good service.
most hotels are booked up.
Luxury Hotels
Prices and Payment Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius have
It is advisable to confirm accept- a large range of luxury hotels,
able modes of payment prior to some of which attract heads of
arriving, especially for rural areas, state and other VIPs. Often these
although all major hotels accept hotels are in historic buildings
the principal credit cards for that have been converted to
payment. Visitors should be provide state-of-the-art facilities
aware of what is included in the while retaining their original
advertised rate. Many hotels features. There are also several
include breakfast and the use superb hotels that are run by
of amenities such as a fitness the big international hotel
centre, while other facilities, groups, such as the Radisson Blu
including saunas, can cost extra. Astorija Hotel in Vilnius (see p305)
Pricing structures vary and Europa Royale Rīga (see p300).
considerably from country Even in the swankiest hotels
to country and from hotel to in the Baltic States, swimming Corner entrance of the Kolonna Hotel,
hotel, but across many types of pools remain something of a Rēzekne, Latvia (see p303)
Pleasant town-square garden, Tallinn
W H E R E TO S TAY  293
Baltic States that many of these

guesthouses are booked out
all through the summer. It is
advisable to make a reservation
well in advance.
Hostels
The first accommodation choice
for young travellers on a tight
budget, hostels were once few
and far between in the Baltic
States. With the growth in
tourism, even at the budget
end, backpackers and other
travellers looking for sociable
Pädaste Manor, housed in a 16th-century farmhouse on Muhu Island, Estonia (see p297) and affordable accommodation
are now well served throughout
Apartments and modelled on rustic-style timber the three countries.
Private Homes buildings and have become an Most hostels are of a decent
Apartment rental is an excellent integral part of the Baltic coun- standard and have beds in
accommodation option that is tryside. They invariably offer a communal dormitories for
comparatively under-used in the range of activities for guests, reasonable rates, as well as a
Baltic States. Several agencies such as swimming, sports and small selection of private rooms,
in the capital cities offer this saunas, and the owners can offered for considerably less
service – Erel Apartments & sometimes arrange guided than the average hotel rate.
Residences and Goodson tours of local sights. Meals are Hostels also offer a range of
& Red Apartments in Tallinn, usually optional, but a hearty, amenities, including at least
Lilija Plus Real Estate Agency home-made breakfast or dinner Internet access, kitchen facilities
in Rīga and Barbacan costs less than similar fare and a common room, and
Apartments and Eugenijus in a local restaurant. extending to licensed bars,
Apartments in Vilnius. Also The choice of rural guest- sightseeing tours and, in the
available in some other major houses is enormous throughout case of the Red Emperor in
cities, apartments can be opulent the Baltic States and their Tallinn (see p296), live music
or spartan, but in general most availability extends to the most and a skateboard ramp.
are of a high standard. Most remote areas of each country. Many hostels are privately run
agency-managed apartments Bookings can be made through and you'll find some of these
are in central locations. Rates are their websites or via the rural listed on pages 296–307. Others
usually very competitive and the tourism association – Estonian are affiliated with the worldwide
apartments often provide better Rural Tourism in Estonia, Baltic network of youth hostel
facilities than those offered at a Country Holidays in Latvia associations, Hostelling
hotel in the same price range. and Countryside Tourism International. Membership is
Numerous properties are also Association in Lithuania. required to stay at one of these
listed on vacation rental sites Rural tourism has become hostels, but joining is cheap and
such as Airbnb. such a popular sector in the can be done while booking.
Guesthouses
In major cities, guesthouses are
small, moderately priced hotels,
sometimes family-run, of eight
to twenty rooms. They can be
convenient places to stay, with
many right in the old centres,
and often in older buildings
with a little character.
In rural areas, guesthouses
can be the best form of lodging,
offering cosy, clean accommo-
dation at very reasonable rates.
Most rural guesthouses tend to
be built close to a family home,
so a personal touch is assured.
Aesthetically, they are loosely Understated suite in Rīga‘s stylish Neiburgs Hotel (see p301)
cost of extra services. Therefore,

it is advisable to check the exact
prices of meals, drinks, saunas,
guided tours, or any such addi-
tional services in advance, to
avoid any awkwardness at the
time of settling the bills.
Children
Children are amply catered for
in nearly all hotels and guest-
houses in all three countries. A
number of hotels have rooms
designed for families travelling
with children. If not, then most
hotels gladly provide extra beds
for children. Many rural guest-
houses offer special play areas
and activities for children and
most decent hotels can provide
cots for very young children,
while babysitting services are
Swimming pool at Vanagupe hotel at the beach resort of Palanga, Lithuania (see p307) becoming increasingly
common. Some larger hotels
Camp Sites Hidden Extras offer special family rates that
Camping is an extremely Most decent hotels in cities include a number of family-
popular summer activity in throughout the three Baltic oriented excursions.
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. States operate in a transparent
As a result, there are a number manner and will not add any
of camp sites scattered hidden extras to the bill. Smoking
throughout each of the Baltic However, it is worth checking In keeping with the ban on
countries. These are usually very the cost of drinks from the smoking in public places in
cheap and offer basic amenities minibar and calls made from the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania,
such as communal showers and hotel room telephone, before all hotels prohibit smoking in
an on-site pub-style restaurant. using either of these services – their public areas. Smoking is
However, not all camps are the price is often exorbitant. In not allowed in lobbies and
equipped with washing smaller hotels, it is a good idea restaurants, although some
facilities and toilet blocks. to find out if breakfast is larger hotels provide special
National parks have official included in the room rate. smoking zones. These zones
camping spots, which are free Rural guesthouses tend to can be recognized by a green
of charge. Many commercial be peculiarly reticent about the smoking-allowed symbol.
camp sites also offer basic cabin
accommodation, sometimes
with kitchen facilities.
In general, there is a very
relaxed attitude towards
camping in the Baltic States
and people often camp
alongside beaches and lakes
and in forests at improvised
camp sites. Many guesthouses
allow campers to pitch a tent in
their grounds for a nominal fee.
For camping on private pro-
perty, however, it is imperative
to obtain permission from the
owner beforehand.
A full list of camp sites can
be found on national tourism
websites (see p365) and rural
tourism websites. In Estonia,
RMK is an efficient organization
that arranges camping. Well-appointed room at the Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel in Vilnius (see p305)
W H E R E TO S TAY  295
DIRECTORY
Apartments and
Private Homes
Airbnb
∑ airbnb.com
Barbacan Apartments
Vilnius.
Tel +370 6151 2688.
∑ barbacan.lt
Erel Apartments &

Residences
Tartu mnt 14, Tallinn 10149,
Estonia.
Dignified decor at the SamaraH Hotel Metropole, Rīga (see p300) Tel +372 663 1640.
∑ erel.ee
Most hotels still offer guests a Jaunpils Castle in Western Latvia
choice between smoking and have antique four-poster beds Eugenijus Apartments
non-smoking rooms. and fireplaces (see p301); and Vilniaus 25–1,
Monte Pacis hotel in Kaunas, Vilnius.
Lithuania, is housed in an Tel +370 6994 2456.
Disabled Travellers elegantly furnished 17th-century ∑ vilniusapartments.lt
Until recently, access and monastery (see p306). Goodson & Red Apartments
facilities for disabled travellers There are also numerous Jõe 5, Tallinn.
was limited to high-end rustic getaways, perfect for spa Tel +372 666 1650.
establishments and large chain treatments or convening with ∑ goodsonandred.com
hotels. However, most major nature. Akmenine Rezidencija
Lilija Plus Real
new hotels in the three capital in Lithuania (see p306) is a Estate Agency
cities have incorporated romantic bolthole on a lake, Rīdzenes iela 25, Rīga.
facilities for disabled guests into while Taevaskoja Salamaa in Tel +371 6721 6040.
their design and the situation Estonia (see p299) is a simple ∑ lilarealty.lv
has greatly improved. In many rural retreat perfect for families.
upscale hotels, guest rooms are Throughout the listings some Guesthouses
appointed with facilities for venues are labelled DK Choice.
disabled people. It is important These are outstanding in Baltic Country Holidays
to remember, however, that some way. They might have (Lauku ceļotājs)
very few rural guesthouses have an atmospheric historic Kalnciema 40, Rīga.
facilities for disabled visitors. setting, magnificent views, Tel +371 6761 7600.
particularly good amenities or ∑ celotajs.lv
an idyllic location. Whatever Estonian Rural Tourism
Recommended Hotels the reasons, a DK Choice Vilmsi tänav 53 G,
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania will provide an especially Tallinn.
have an excellent range of hotel memorable stay. Tel +372 600 9999.
accommodation, though the ∑ maaturism.ee
more luxurious options are Lithuanian Countryside
mostly to be found in the Tourism Association
historic Old Towns of the Donelaičio gatvė 2–201,
capitals. The listings on pages Kaunas.
296–307 cover a wide choice Tel +370 37 400 354.
of accommodation types, from ∑ atostogoskaime.lt
luxury and mid-range modern
hotels to apartments, guest- Hostels
houses, hostels and camp sites.
Across the Baltic States there Hostelling International
are wonderfully atmospheric ∑ hihostels.com
historic hotels to be found. The
Three Sisters Boutique Hotel
Camp Sites
in Tallinn is a magnificent RMK
conversion of three medieval Toompuiestee 24,
houses (see p297); Rīga‘s Hotel 10149, Tallinn
Justus occupies a 14th-century Tel +372 676 7500.
cathedral dormitory (see p300); The pine-clad interior of Akmeninė ∑ rmk.ee
rooms in the 13th-century Rezidencija, Trakai, Lithuania (see p306)
Where to Stay in Estonia

CRU Hotel €€ Price Guide
Tallinn Historic Street Finder D3 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Viru 8, 10640
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Economy Hotel € Tel 611 7600
Modern Street Finder B1 ∑ cruhotel.eu € up to €80
Kopli tee 2c, 10412 A splendid hotel in a 15th- €€ €80 to €180
€€€ over €180
Tel 667 8300 century building with exposed
∑ economyhotel.ee beams and period features. The
The cosy Economy Hotel offers restaurant is excellent.
rooms with work desks and DK Choice
stripped wooden floors. It is Delta Apartments €€ Merchant’s House Hotel €€
conveniently close to the Apartments Street Finder C2 Historic Street Finder C2
main train station. Pikk 36, 10133 Dunkri 4/6, 10123
Tel 5302 2565 Tel 697 7500
Go Hotel Shnelli € These smart apartments in the ∑ merchantshousehotel.com
Modern Street Finder B2 Old Town are spacious, clean and Set in a 16th-century building
Toompuiestee 37, 10133 have well-equipped kitchens. right at the heart of the Old
Tel 631 0100 Some apartments have saunas. Town, this boutique hotel offers
∑ gohotels.ee wonderfully characterful rooms
This stylish hotel offers spotless Hotel Bern €€ that make the most of the
rooms, some with Old Town Modern Street Finder D2 building’s rustic medieval
views. Generous breakfasts, a Aia 10, 10111 features. The vaulted basement
casino and spa facilities add to Tel 680 6630 houses a restaurant, where
its appeal. Efficient, friendly staff ∑ tallinnhotels.ee guests can enjoy a generous
and free parking. Rooms are on the small side, but breakfast buffet.
service is great and the breakfast
Old Town Münkenhof € is plentiful at this pleasant hotel
Hostel Street Finder D2 in a utilitarian brick building. My City Hotel €€
Munga 4, 10123 Modern Street Finder C3
Tel 507 4766 Hotel Palace €€ Vana-Posti 11/13, 10146
∑ oldtownmunkenhof.ee Modern Street Finder C3 Tel 622 0900
Choose between immaculate Vabaduse Väljak 3, 10141 ∑ mycityhotel.ee
private rooms or 4- to 6-bed Tel 680 6646 This delightful Old Town hotel, a
dorms at this hostel in an ∑ tallinnhotels.ee few steps from the town square, has
atmospheric Old Town house. This chic hotel features an ultra- airy, elegantly furnished rooms and
There is a communal kitchen. elegant interior. Rooms have Old exceptionally high service standards.
Town views. Facilities include
Red Emperor Hostel € steam bath, sauna and small pool. Original Sokos Hotel Viru €€
Hostel Street Finder D2 Modern Street Finder D3
Aīa 10, 10111 Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark €€ Viru Väljak 4, 10111
Tel 615 0035 Spa hotel Street Finder D2 Tel 680 9300
∑ redemperorhostel.com Aia 18, 10111 ∑ sokoshotels.fi
A funky modern hostel with Tel 649 3300 A vast hotel complex, Original
great facilities, private rooms and ∑ kalevspa.ee Sokos has two restaurants, a
mixed dorms. Be warned that its With an enormous waterpark that nightclub and a shopping centre.
lively bar attracts young locals is free for guests and features three The wide range of well-appointed
who like to party until late. slides and a large pool, this central rooms are suitable for families as
hotel is great for families. Spacious well as business travellers.
Romeo Family Apartments € rooms are stylishly furnished.
Apartments Street Finder C3 Videviku Villa Apartments €€
Suur-Karja 18, Apt 38, 10149 Apartments
Tel 5690 4786 Videviku 30, 10139
∑ romeofamily.ee Tel 648 2299
These family-run, great-value ∑ videviku.hostels.ee
Old Town apartments come Choose from several spacious
with microwaves and washing apartments located in a peaceful
machines; some have full kitchens, neighbourhood. Facilities include
too. Breakfast is included. fully equipped kitchens and
antique-style furnishings.
Vabriku €
Guesthouse Street Finder B1 Hotel Telegraaf €€€
Vabriku 24, Põhja-Tallinn 15010 Luxury Street Finder C2
Tel 646 6287 Vene 9, 10123
∑ vabrikuhostel.eu Tel 600 0600
Simply furnished double and ∑ telegraafhotel.com
triple rooms are offered in this An old telegraph office has been
lovely house with a garden, a transformed into one of Tallinn’s
short walk from the Old Town. top hotels. It offers sumptuously
There are shared kitchen facilities, A room with canopy bed in The Three furnished rooms, faultless service
plus a barbecue area. Sisters Boutique Hotel, Tallinn and a great restaurant (see p316).
Tallinn Street Finder see pp86–7; Road Map see back inside cover
W H E R E TO S TAY I N E S TO N I A  297
Radisson Blu Sky Hotel €€€

Luxury Street Finder E3
Rävala puiestee 3, 10143
Tel 682 3000
∑ radissonblu.com
An ultra-modern hotel in a glass
building a short walk from the Old
Town, Radisson Blu Sky has a
rooftop bar with panoramic
views of the sea and the city.
St Petersbourg Hotel €€€

Historic Street Finder C2
Rataskaevu 7, 10123
Tel 628 6500
∑ hotelstpetersbourg.com
First opened in 1850, this is Understated “Superior Double” room at the Schlössle Hotel, Tallinn
Tallinn’s oldest hotel and one of
its finest. The spacious rooms are HAAPSALU: Fra Mare beauty. Rooms are large and
extravagantly furnished with Thalasso Spa €€ cosy and there’s space for
touches of Art Deco whimsy. Spa hotel Road Map C2 backpackers in the hay loft.
Ranna tee 2, 90403
Schlössle Hotel €€€ Tel 472 4600 MUHU ISLAND: Igaküla
Historic Street Finder C2 ∑ framare.ee Matsi Puhkemaja €
Pühavaimu 13/15, 10123 This modern seafront hotel offers Guesthouse Road Map C2
Tel 699 7700 a range of spa and beauty treat- Matsi farmstead, Igaküla village,
∑ schloesslehotel.com ments. It has bright, airy rooms, an 94722
This atmospheric five-star hotel excellent pool complex and gym, Tel 5668 2681
occupies several 14th-century and a large sauna. ∑ matsitalu.ee
houses. Lavishly furnished rooms This appealing 19th-century
complement the medieval interior HIIUMAA ISLAND: Kassari wooden farmhouse with a
perfectly. Fine restaurant (see p315). Puhkekeskus €€ thatched roof is surrounded by
Modern Road Map C2 immaculate gardens. The three
Swissotel Tallinn €€€ Kassari village, Käina parish, 92111 spacious rooms are cosily
Luxury Street Finder E3 Tel 469 7169 furnished and accommodate
Tornimäe 3, 10145 ∑ kassarikeskus.ee up to five people. Three small
Tel 624 0000 Ideal for families, this superb hotel log cabins are also available.
∑ swissotel.com by the sea has a large garden, a
Occupying Tallinn’s tallest children’s play area and capacious
building, this stunning hotel has a rooms with kitchenettes. DK Choice
spa centre, a pool with sauna, and MUHU ISLAND: Pädaste
a top-floor bar and restaurant KIHNU ISLAND: Tolli Tourism Manor €€€
with spectacular city views. Farm € Luxury Road Map C2
Guesthouse Road Map C2 Pädaste, 94716
The Three Sisters Sääre village, Kihnu parish, 88005 Tel 454 8800
Boutique Hotel €€€ Tel 527 7380 ∑ padaste.ee
Historic Street Finder D1 ∑ kihnukallas.ee A stunning, high-class hotel,
Pikk 71 / Tolli 2, 10133 An authentic farmstead in an Pädaste Manor is housed in
Tel 630 6300 idyllic rural setting. Guests can a renovated 16th-century
∑ threesistershotel.com take trips out to sea with the farmhouse ensconced in
Three medieval houses have been island’s fishermen. Sporting woods at the waterfront.
magnificently converted into activites are also on offer. Oozing period charm, it has
Tallinn’s premiere luxury boutique antique furniture, open fires
hotel. Large, comfortable rooms MATSALU NATIONAL PARK: and exposed brickwork
feature both modern fittings Altmõisa Guesthouse € throughout. Its top-notch
and period detail. Guesthouse Road Map C2 facilities include a helipad, spa
Tuuru village, Ridala parish, 90426 centre, billiards room and a
Tel 472 4680 world-renowned restaurant (see
∑ altmoisa.ee p317). The ideal place to get
Western Estonia An endearing guesthouse with away from it all in style.
sea views and great bird-watching
HAAPSALU: Lahe Guesthouse € and hiking opportunities.
Guesthouse Road Map C2 PALDISKI: Padise Manor €€
Lahe 7, 90503 MATSALU NATIONAL PARK: Historic Road Map C1
Tel 516 3023 Algallika €€ Padise village, Padise parish, 76001
∑ lahemaja.com Guesthouse Road Map C2 Tel 608 7877
In a century-old villa, this Mäe farmstead, Ranna village, ∑ padisemois.ee
peaceful family-run guesthouse Hanila parish, 90115 In an 18th-century manor house
has large, classically furnished Tel 5556 6088 overlooking the ruins of a 13th-
rooms. It is set in beautiful ∑ algallika.ee century monastery, this hugely
gardens a short walk from the This delightful rural guesthouse atmospheric hotel has an elegant
sea and local sights. sits amidst acres of natural interior and flawless service.
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–5
PÄRNU: Rannahotell €€ SAAREMAA ISLAND: Ekesparre

Spa hotel Road Map D2 Boutique Hotel €€€
Ranna puiestee 5, 80010 Luxury Road Map C2
Tel 444 4444 Lossi 27, Kuressaare, 93815
∑ rannahotell.ee Tel 453 8778
Most of the rooms at this elegant ∑ ekesparre.ee
seafront hotel overlook the beach. Ekesparre is the island’s oldest hotel
There is a spa centre, sauna, and one of its best. Outstanding
tennis court and kids’ play area. service and great location right
beside the Bishop’s Castle (see p98).
PÄRNU: Villa Ammende €€€
Luxury Road Map D2 SOOMAA NATIONAL PARK:
Mere puiestee 7, 80010 Guesthouse Linnamehe €
Tel 447 3888 Guesthouse Road Map D2
∑ ammende.ee Kuiaru village, Tori parish, 86806
A glorious hotel in an Art Nouveau Tel 517 8379 The functionalist Rannahotell, Pärnu, built
mansion with a wonderful restau ∑ linnamehe.ee in the1930s
rant (see p317). The service is fault A pretty wooden cottage close to
less and the rooms are beautifully Soomaa National Park offers LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK:
furnished in authentic period style. simple accommodation, verdant Merekalda Guesthouse €€
Close to the beach and Old Town. gardens, a children’s play area and Guesthouse Road Map D1
swimming pond. The hospitable Neeme tee 2, Käsmu village, 45601
PÄRNU: Frost Boutique owners organize local tours. Tel 323 8451
Hotel €€€ ∑ merekalda.ee
Luxury Road Map D2 VORMSI ISLAND: Elle-Malle € Snug apartments have a patio or
Kuninga 11a, 80011 Guesthouse Road Map C1 balcony and a kitchenette at this
Tel 5303 0424 Hullo village, 91301 seaside getaway in a stunning
∑ frosthotel.ee Tel 473 2072 spot ideal for hiking and cycling.
A lovely Old Town hotel with This restful guesthouse has
individually designed rooms several rustic rooms, a romantic LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK:
incorporating wood and double in a converted windmill, Sagadi Manor Hotel €€€
stone with modern accents. and a separate cottage. Bikes are Luxury Road Map D1
Transparent bathroom doors are available to get around the island. Sagadi village, Vihula parish, 45403
one of the more unusual features. Tel 676 7888
VORMSI ISLAND: Rumpo ∑ sagadi.ee
SAAREMAA ISLAND: Mäe Farm € In the grounds of the beautiful
Toomalõuka Tourist Farm € Guesthouse Road Map C1 Sagadi Manor estate (see p113),
Guesthouse Road Map B2 Rumpo village, 91309 this hotel has charming rooms in
Kopli farmstead, Toomalõuka village, Tel 472 9932 the elegantly converted stables.
Salme parish, 93261 ∑ rumpomae.ee
Tel 5646 6567 A charming converted farmstead NARVA-JÕESUU: Pansionaat
∑ toomaloukaturism.ee and campsite by the sea, Mäe Valentina €€
This fantastic rustic farm complex Farm offers simple, tidy rooms Guesthouse Road Map E1
has a thatched guesthouse and selfcatering facilities. Aia 47, 29023
boasting comfortable wood Activities include seakayaking, Tel 357 7468
panelled rooms and a barn that archery, fishing and cycling. ∑ pansionaatvalentina.com
sleeps up to 20. The energetic In a spectacular location amidst
owners organize fishing, sea dense woods beside the sea, this
kayaking, cycling and diving tours. guesthouse has a choice of two
Eastern Estonia simply furnished rooms and a
SAAREMAA ISLAND: much smarter pair of apartments.
Georg Ots Spa Hotel €€ KUREMÄE: Kuremäe Hostel €
Spa hotel Road Map C2 Hostel Road Map E1 NARVA-JÕESUU: Meresuu Spa
Tori 2, Kuressaare, 93810 Kuremäe village, Illuka parish, 41201 & Hotel €€€
Tel 455 0000 Tel 525 0896 Spa hotel Road Map E1
∑ gospa.ee Basic but adequate twin rooms, Aia 48a, 29023
Outstanding facilities and service some with a shared bathroom, Tel 357 9600
feature at this hotel that boasts are offered in this cosy house ∑ meresuu.ee
views of the sea or castle from close to Pühtitsa Convent. The A smart, modern hotel towering
many rooms. Generous breakfast small cafébar serves light meals. over the tree tops, near the
and great restaurant (see p318). beach. The spa facilities are first
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: rate. Many rooms have sea views.
SAAREMAA ISLAND: Kuursaal Sae Hostel €
Guesthouse €€ Hostel Road Map D1 ONTIKA COAST: Toila Spa
Modern Road Map C2 Koljaku village, Vihula parish, 45419 Hotel €€
Lossipark 1, Kuressaare, 93815 Tel 5656 0901 Spa hotel Road Map E1
Tel 453 9749 ∑ saehostel.weebly.com Ranna 12, Toila 41702
∑ kuressaarekuursaal.ee In an idyllic cottage in the woods, Tel 324 2900
A charming place next to the this hostel has simply furnished ∑ toilaspa.ee
castle, this guesthouse has airy rooms, a shared kitchen and living The accommodation at this vast
ensuite rooms with mosquito area, and a sauna. The friendly seafront complex includes
nets and a restaurant serving owners hire out bikes and can selfcatering apartments and a
French and Estonian cuisine. advise on local trips. camp site. Rather dated interior.
For key to prices see p296; Road Map see back inside cover
W H E R E TO S TAY I N E S TO N I A  299
OTEPÄÄ: Pühajärve Spa & interesting example of Stalinist VILJANDI: Just Rest
Holiday Resort €€ Neo-Baroque architecture. The Automatic Hostel €
Spa hotel Road Map E2 rooms are spacious, but rather Hostel Road Map D2
Pühajärve, 67414 dated and sparsely furnished. Ranna puiestee 6, 71003
Tel 766 5500 Tel 520 6772
∑ pyhajarve.com SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Haanjamehe ∑ justrest.eu
In a beautiful location, this hotel Talu € A fantastic hostel with automated
offers a range of wellness and Guesthouse Road Map E2 check-in and space-age styling.
beauty treatments, as well as Vakari village, Haanja parish, 65101 Rooms with one to four beds have
billiards, a bowling alley, a gym Tel 786 6043 bathrooms and secure lockers.
and a large pool. ∑ haanjamehetalu.ee
This cosy log-built farmstead VILJANDI: Grand
PÕLTSAMAA: Guesthouse Carl offers accommodation in Hotel Viljandi €€
Schmidt € converted granaries or in the Modern Road Map D2
Guesthouse Road Map D2 main house. Activities include Tartu 11, 71004
Kesk 4, 48105 local excursions, kayaking Tel 435 5800
Tel 5346 8303 and – depending on the ∑ ghv.ee
This well-run establishment in the season – sleigh or carriage rides. An opulent hotel in an Art Deco
town centre has its own pub and building with classically styled
a delightfully rustic interior. rooms and good fitness facilities. A
Rooms are on the small side, but DK Choice morning sauna session is included.
the friendly service compensates. TAEVASKOJA: Taevaskoja
Salamaa € VÕRU: Hämsaare Guesthouse €
PÕLVA: Hotel Pesa € Guesthouse Road Map E2 Guesthouse Road Map E2
Modern Road Map E2 Taevaskoja tee 32, Põlva parish, Meegomäe village, 65603
Uus 5, 63308 63229 Tel 5551 5759
Tel 799 8530 Tel 5345 6480 ∑ hamsa.ee
∑ kagureis.ee ∑ salamaa.eu This 19th-century log farmhouse
The congenial Hotel Pesa has Tucked away in the woods, is now an idyllic lodging with
comfortable rooms and a large this simple, peaceful guest- cosy rooms and a rustic tavern
pool with separate children’s pool. house makes for the perfect serving traditional Estonian fare.
Local excursions can be arranged. rural retreat. Rooms are
individually furnished with folk- VÕRU: Kubija Hotel and
RAKVERE: Hotell Wesenbergh € tale themes and, with families Nature Spa €
Modern Road Map D1 in mind, come with bunk beds. Spa hotel Road Map E2
Tallinna 25, 44311 Alternatively, visitors can pitch a Männiku 43a, 65603
Tel 322 3480 tent at the campsite. There’s a Tel 504 5745
∑ wesenbergh.ee large shared kitchen and a great ∑ kubija.ee
Named after the local castle, this outdoor play area complete This tranquil hotel in a forest has
hotel is smartly furnished to a with trampoline and swings. five pools, four saunas and an
high standard. Several rooms Kayaking, cycling and hiking are abundance of wellness treatments.
come with a private sauna. among the activities on offer. Remarkably good value.
RÕUGE: Rõuge Suurjärve € VÕRU: Piusa Ürgoru

Guesthouse Road Map E2 TARTU: Antonius Hotel €€ Holiday Centre €
Metsa 5, 66201 Luxury Road Map E2 Guesthouse Road Map E2
Tel 785 9273 Ülikooli 15, 51003 Väiko-Härma village, Meremäe
∑ maremajutus.ee Tel 737 0377 parish, 65354
A great base for exploring the ∑ hotelantonius.ee Tel 528 9134
surrounding area, this wooden In a meticulously restored ∑ puhkemaja.ee
guesthouse has simple, comfort- 16th-century house, this very A village-like complex with a main
able rooms and rustic-style break- atmospheric Old Town hotel house, converted granary, several
fast. Lunch and dinner on request. features antique furniture and log cabins and a campsite. Trout
exposed beams. Excellent service. fishing and a traditional sauna.
SANGASTE MANOR: Sangaste
Castle Hotel €€
Historic Road Map D2
Lossi village, Sangaste parish, 67005
Tel 529 5911
∑ sangasteloss.com
This redbrick manor, built in
English Gothic Revival style,
offers wonderfully atmospheric
rooms with high ceilings and
old wooden beams.
SILLAMÄE: Hotel Krunk €€

Modern Road Map E1
Kesk 23, 40231
Tel 392 9030
∑ krunk.ee
Constructed in the 1950s
during the Soviet era, this is an Merekalda Guesthouse on the Gulf of Finland, within Lahemaa National Park

Where to Stay in Latvia

Baltvilla €€ Monika Centrum Hotels €€
Rīga Spa hotel Modern Street Finder C2
Senču prospekts 45, Baltezers, LV-2164 Elizabetes 21, LV-1010
Art Hotel Laine € Tel 6784 0640 Tel 6703 1900
Guesthouse Street Finder E2 ∑ baltvilla.lv ∑ monika.centrumhotels.com
Skolas 11, LV-1010 On the edge of Lake Baltezers, Housed in an attractive Neo
Tel 6728 9823 15 km (9 miles) from the centre, Gothic building in the main
∑ laine.lv Baltvilla specializes in spa and Art Nouveau district, this
Housed in an Art Nouveau build medical treatments. Good spotless hotel offers spacious
ing, this bright hotel has spotless facilities for disabled guests. and cosy rooms.
ensuite doubles and cheaper
rooms with shared facilities. Europa Royale Rīga €€ SemaraH Hotel Metropole €€
Historic Street Finder E3 Historic Street Finder D4
Elizabeth’s Youth Hostel € K Barona 12, LV-1050 Aspazijas bulvāris 36/38, LV-1050
Hostel Street Finder E4 Tel 6707 9444 Tel 6601 0300
Elizabetes 103-2, LV-1050 ∑ groupeuropa.com ∑ semarahhotels.com
Tel 2701 0611 Remarkably plush, this 19th Open since 1871, this is one
∑ youthhostel.lv century building features high of the city’s oldest hotels.
This large, clean hostel has mixed ceilings, huge doors, stained The renovated interior is
dorms and rooms with shared glass windows and a casino. thoroughly modern but there
facilities. It is located close to the is no airconditioning.
train station and the Old Town. Hotel Garden Palace €€
Historical Street Finder C4 Wellton Centrum Hotel & Spa €€
Guesthouse Jakob Lenz € Grēcinieku 28, LV-1079 Spa hotel Street Finder D4
Guesthouse Street Finder D1 Tel 6722 4650 Kalēju 33, LV-1050
Lenču 2, LV-1010 ∑ hotelgardenpalace.lv Tel 6713 0670
Tel 6733 3343 Indulge in oldfashioned elegance ∑ wellton.com
∑ guesthouselenz.lv at this wellpriced hotel. Rooms This is an unusually central Old
In the Art Nouveau district, this are opulently furnished and Town location for such a well
wellkept lodging has bright some have terraces. equipped spa hotel. Note that
doubles with shared bathrooms use of the spa is not included in
and a few ensuite family rooms. the standard roomrate. The
DK Choice service is excellent though.
Hotel B&B Rīga € Hotel Justus €€
Guesthouse Street Finder E3 Historic Street Finder C4 Astor Rīga Hotel €€€
Ģertrūdes 43, LV-1011 Jauniela 24, LV-1050 Modern Street Finder D3
Tel 6727 8505 Tel 6721 2404 Z A Meierovica bulvāris 10, LV-1050
∑ bb-riga.lv ∑ hoteljustus.lv Tel 6721 7777
A short walk from the Old Town, Occupying the 14thcentury ∑ astorrigahotel.lv
this familyrun B&B overlooks a dormitories of the cathedral, Opened in 2012, this grand hotel
courtyard. Most of the spacious this enormously atmospheric in the Old Town acquired an
rooms have cooking facilities. Old Town hotel has distressed excellent reputation in a very
period features and exposed short period of time. Standard
Hotel Edvards € brick walls, some with murals rooms are a little on the small side.
Modern Street Finder E2 painted by the onceresident
Dzirnavu 45/47, LV-1010 monks. Tastefully styled rooms Dome Hotel & Spa €€€
Tel 6743 9960 have antique furniture along Luxury Street Finder C3
∑ hoteledvards.lv with airconditioning and WiFi. Miesnieku 4, LV-1050
An immaculate hotel with plain Tel 6750 9010
rooms in a 19thcentury building. ∑ domehotel.lv
There’s a good choice at breakfast This fivestar boutique hotel in a
and free tea and coffee all day. 17thcentury Old Town mansion,
which was renovated in 2009 by
Albert Hotel €€ Latvian designers, is an absolute
Modern Street Finder D2 treat. Rates include use of the
Dzirnavu 33, LV-1010 hammam, but the spa and
Tel 6733 1717 wellness treatments are extra.
∑ alberthotel.lv The service is impeccable.
This central hotel towers over its
neighbours, offering superb city Gallery Park Hotel €€€
views from its rooftop bar and Luxury Street Finder D2
many of its rooms. K Valdemāra 7, LV-1010
Tel 6733 8830
Apartments – Laipu €€ ∑ galleryparkhotel.com
Apartments Street Finder C3 In an imposing 19thcentury
Laipu 1, LV-1050 building that is part of the
Tel 6781 4680 Châteaux & Hôtels Collection,
Fully equipped apartments have this opulent fivestar hotel has an
elegant, highceilinged rooms. The blue façade of Wellton Centrum Hotel & indoor pool, secure underground
Great service; immaculate rooms. Spa, centrally located in Rīga’s Old Town parking and a great restaurant.
For key to prices see p296; Rīga Street Finder see pp164–5; Road Map see back inside cover
W H E R E TO S TAY I N L AT V I A 301
Grand Palace Hotel €€€

Luxury Street Finder C3
Pils 12, LV-1050
Tel 6704 4000
∑ grandpalaceriga.com
A first-rate hotel with an acclaimed
restaurant and sophisticated bar.
The rooms have heated floors
and modern furnishings.
Hotel Bergs €€€

Luxury Street Finder C2
Elizabetes 83/85, LV-1050
Tel 6777 0900
∑ hotelbergs.lv
This prestigious boutique hotel
has large rooms and modern,
understated decor. There is an
excellent restaurant (see p321). Sleek room in the boutique Dome Hotel & Spa, set in a 400-year-old Rīga building
JŪRMALA: Light House €€€

DK Choice DK Choice Luxury Road Map C3
Neiburgs Hotel €€€ JAUNPILS: Jaunpils Castle €€ Gulbenes 1a, LV-1205,
Historic Street Finder C4 Historic Road Map C4 Tel 6751 1445
Jauniela 25/27, LV-1050 Pils, Tukuma district, LV-3145 ∑ lighthousejurmala.lv
Tel 6711 5522 Tel 6310 7082 This small luxury complex with a
∑ neiburgs.com ∑ jaunpilspils.lv glass-fronted restaurant and
Occupying a splendid Art Perfect for a romantic break, terrace sits right on the beach.
Nouveau mansion in the centre this 13th-century castle (see Each of the 11 individually themed
of the Old Town, this stylish p174) is as atmospheric as they rooms has full kitchen facilities.
hotel is among the best in the come. Most of the rooms are
city. Large, smartly furnished en-suite with four-poster beds, KANDAVA: Hotel Kandava €
rooms and apartments with full tiled or parquet floors and open Modern Road Map C3
kitchen facilities are available, fireplaces. Those on a tighter Sabiles 3, LV-3120
along with a sauna, a steam budget can opt for a bed in a Tel 2640 6733
bath and an excellent restaurant. mixed dorm within the castle. ∑ hotelkandava.viss.lv
A good-value option with clean
and comfortable rooms. A simple
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija €€€ JELGAVA: Hotel Jelgava €€ café-restaurant offers a choice of
Modern Street Finder C2 Modern Road Map C4 local dishes. Helpful, efficient staff.
Elizabetes 55, LV-1010 Lielā 6, LV-3001
Tel 6777 2222 Tel 6302 6193 KOLKA: Guesthouse Vītoli €
∑ radissonblu.com ∑ hoteljelgava.lv Guesthouse Road Map C3
This monolithic 26-floor hotel A short walk from Jelgava Palace, Vītoli, Kolka, LV-3275
looms over the city. Facilities are this smart hotel offers spacious, Tel 2913 5764
first-rate and the views from rooms well-appointed rooms, a pleasant ∑ lai-ripo.lv/atputa
and top floor bar are fabulous. garden and a complimentary Close to the sea in the picturesque
morning sauna for guests. Slītere National Park, this modest
guesthouse has a pretty garden
JŪRMALA: Dzintari Park and basic rooms with shared
Western Latvia Hostel € bathroom and kitchen facilities.
Hostel Road Map C3
BAUSKA: Hotel Bērzkalni € Piestātnes 6/14, LV-2010 KULDĪGA: Metropole €
Modern Road Map D4 Tel 2586 2000 Modern Road Map B3
Bērzkalni 11a, LV-3901 An impeccable hostel in a Baznīcas 11, LV-3301
Tel 6392 6888 tastefully converted redbrick villa Tel 6335 0588
∑ berzkalni.lv just 200 m (650 ft) from the sea. ∑ hotel-metropole.lv
This great-value hotel is 2 km There’s a choice of bright, Although this hotel has kept its
(1 mile) from the centre and offers spacious rooms and mixed or original façade dating from 1910,
airy doubles and triples, some single-sex dorms. its interior was renovated in 2006
with shared bathroom, a small to a minimalist design. Sloping
indoor pool and a restaurant. JŪRMALA: Villa Joma €€ ceilings give it character. There is
Historic Road Map C3 a fine restaurant (see p322).
DUNDAGA: Laumas € Jomas 90, LV-2015
Guesthouse Road Map C3 Tel 6777 1999 LAKE ENGURE: Guesthouse
Laumas, LV-3261 ∑ villajoma.lv Mikas €
Tel 2640 3240 This stately building first Guesthouse Road Map C3
A wonderful retreat in the Laumas functioned as a hotel back in Ābragciems, Engure district, LV-1048
Nature Park with immaculate the late 19th century and has Tel 2924 4653
wood-panelled en-suite rooms an enviable location right at A short walk from the sea, this
and apartments, situated in idyllic the heart of the resort. It has a peaceful property has cosy
woodlands. Activities include lovely elegant interior and fine rooms with shared bathroom
fishing, hiking and mini-golf. restaurant (see p322). and kitchen and a large garden.
302 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
LIEPĀJA: Pie Jāna € SABILE: Firks Pedvāle €

Hostel Road Map B4 Historic Road Map C4
Raiņa 43, LV-3401 Pedvāle, LV-3295
Tel 2036 4552 Tel 6325 2249
∑ hotelpiejana.lv This manor house in the grounds
There is a choice of private rooms of Pedvāle Open-Air Museum (see
or beds in spacious dorms at this p182) has basic, but atmospheric,
characterful, central hostel. rooms with shared bathrooms.
LIEPĀJA: Libava €€ TALSI: Martinelli €€

Modern Road Map B4 Guesthouse Road Map C3
Vecā ostmala 29, LV-3401 Lielā 7, LV-3201
Tel 6342 5318 Tel 6329 1340
∑ libava.lv ∑ martinelli.lv
This serene canal-side hotel in a A tiny lodging with tastefully
converted 18th-century customs furnished rooms. The restaurant
house has seven stylish rooms serves delicious Latvian cuisine as
with contemporary decor, and a well as hearty breakfasts (see p323).
first-rate restaurant.
TĒRVETE: Pūteļkrogs € Cosy wood-panelled room at Lacu Miga,
MEŽOTNE: Mežotnes Pils €€ Guesthouse Road Map C4 “the Bear’s Den”, in Gauja National Park
Luxury Road Map D4 Zaļenieku parish, LV-3001
Bauskas district, LV-3918 Tel 2925 5010 DAUGAVPILS: Leo €
Tel 6396 0711 ∑ puteli.lv Modern Road Map E4
∑ mezotnespils.lv A few minutes’ drive from Tērvete Krāslavas 58, LV-5401
This exquisitely restored 19th- Nature Park, this converted dairy Tel 6542 6565
century manor house with a offers snug rooms and a café- ∑ hotelleo.lv
Neo-Classical interior is set in acres restaurant with a pretty garden. A well-established motel-style
of grounds (see p170). Stately hotel in the centre of town, Leo
rooms come with heavy antique TUKUMS: Hotel Tukums € has reasonably sized rooms that
furniture and woodland views. Modern Road Map C3 are spotless and comfortable.
Pils 9, LV-3101
NĪCA: Nīcava € Tel 6312 5747 DAUGAVPILS: Villa Ksenija €€
Guesthouse Road Map B4 ∑ hoteltukums.lv Guesthouse Road Map E4
Nīcas parish, Nīcas district, LV-3473 On a quiet street a short walk Varšavas 17, LV-5400
Tel 2921 4661 from the centre, this pleasant Tel 6543 4317
∑ nicava.lv hotel has en-suite rooms that are ∑ villaks.lv
The large rooms are dated but small but adequate. This beautifully restored 19th-
comfortable at this lakeside villa century mansion, with an elegant
set in charming gardens. It has a TUKUMS: Jaunmoku Palace €€ interior, has smart, spacious rooms
good restaurant with a tree- Historic Road Map C3 and a lovely shaded garden.
shaded terrace (see p323). Tumes parish, Tukuma district
Tel 2618 7442 GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
PĀVILOSTA: Viga € ∑ jaunmokupils.lv Eglaines €
Guesthouse Road Map B4 This one-time aristocratic hunting Guesthouse Road Map D3
Viļņu 3, LV-3466 lodge has five rooms, one of them Kārļi, Drabešu parish, LV-4139
Tel 2642 4389 reputedly haunted, and twenty Tel 2917 2332
In a quiet neighbourhood near more in the manor next door (see ∑ hoteleglaines.lv
the sea, this wonderful guest- p175). Popular for weddings. With just two rooms, this
house has cosy rooms. Free tea enchanting forest retreat is often
and coffee throughout the day. VENTSPILS: Kupfernams € booked up. An exceptionally
Guesthouse Road Map B3 charming place and great value.
ROJA: Rēderi € Kārļa 5, LV-3601
Modern Road Map C3 Tel 6362 6999 GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Kaltene, Roja, LV-3264 ∑ hotelkupfernams.lv Lacu Miga €
Tel 6322 0558 A charming property with a Guesthouse Road Map D3
∑ hotelrederi.lv traditional wooden façade and Gauja 22, Līgatne, LV-4110
A contemporary wood-clad hotel interior decor that blends modern Tel 6415 3481
with bright, spacious rooms and style and period features. ∑lacumiga.lv
sea views. Meals can be taken in Lacu Miga is a snug log cabin
the adjoining café-restaurant. with spacious rooms, deep inside
the park. It is also home to an
RUNDĀLE: Baltā Māja € Eastern Latvia army of teddy bears.
Historic Road Map D4
Pils Rundāle, LV-3921 AGLONA: Aglonas Cakuli € GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Tel 6396 2140 Guesthouse Road Map E4 Karlamuiza Country Hotel €€
∑ hotelbaltamaja.lv Ezera 4, LV-5304 Historic Road Map D3
Housed in the old servants’ Tel 2933 3422 Kārļi, Drabešu parish, LV-4139
quarters of Rundāle Palace (see ∑ aglonascakuli.lv Tel 2616 5298
pp172–3), rooms have shared Friendly, family-run guesthouse ∑ karlamuiza.lv
bathrooms, original paved flooring with a rustic feel on Lake Ciriša. Large rooms have vintage furni-
and tiled stoves. Open out of Breakfast includes home-made ture and basic kitchens at this
season only by prior arrangement. pancakes. Bikes and boats for hire. manor on a forested estate.
W H E R E TO S TAY I N L AT V I A 303
GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Spa some with self-catering facilities, SAULKRASTI: Medzābaki €
Hotel Ezeri €€ on Lake Cirma. There is a common Guesthouse Road Map D3
Spa hotel Road Map D3 kitchen and living area with sauna. Medzābaki-2, Lilaste, LV-2163
Siguldas parish, LV-2150 Tel 2009 6060
Tel 6797 3009 LUDZA: Lucia € ∑ lilaste.eu
∑ hotelezeri.lv Modern Road Map E3 A wonderful thatched-roof guest-
A well-run spa hotel set in several Kr. Barona 20-1, LV-5701 house on Lake Lilaste with bright,
acres of gardens. Guests can Tel 2625 3535 spacious rooms facing the water.
enjoy a wide variety of wellness ∑ lucia.lv Holiday cottages are available too.
treatments as well as the chance One of the few central options,
to plunge into an icy pond this brightly decorated hotel has SAULKRASTI: Pie Maijas €
following their sauna. large, clean rooms, a café serving Guesthouse Road Map D3
light meals, and helpful staff. Murjāņu 3, LV-2160
IKŠĶILE: Spadrops € Tel 2940 5480
Modern Road Map D3 PREIĻI: Pie Pliča € ∑ hotelmaija.lv
Rīgas 18 , LV-5052 Historic Road Map E4 An idyllic spot with self-catering
Tel 2643 0430 Raiņa bulvāris 9, LV-5301 cabins tucked away in the trees,
∑ spadrops.lv Tel 2912 1689 just a short walk from the beach.
A well-appointed hotel and This peaceful establishment was Rooms are adequately furnished
recreation centre outside Rīga, the town’s first hospital. Today it’s and there’s a large garden with a
with a good restaurant (see p324), a well-regarded guesthouse with children’s play area.
a pool, a sauna, cycling, hiking characterful rooms and a sauna.
trails and croquet. STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €
RĀZNA: Rāzna Hotel € Guesthouse Road Map E3
KOKNESE: Orinoko € Modern Road Map E4 Skolas 1, LV-4406
Guesthouse Road Map D4 v. "Astici", Kaunata parish, LV-4622 Tel 2922 5805
Beģēni, Kokneses parish, LV-5113 Tel 2999 4444 ∑ vonadzini.lv
Tel 2663 7918 ∑ razna.lv This thatched-roof hotel has
∑ orinoko.lv On Lake Rāzna, this large pleasant rooms overlooking Lake
This small guesthouse in a recreation centre has smartly Ludza. It offers a wide range of
picturesque location has bright, furnished rooms, self-catering recreational activities.
airy rooms with river views. villas and excellent facilities.
Activities include motorboat VALMIERA: Wolmar €
trips, badminton and volleyball. RĒZEKNE: Kolonna Hotel € Modern Road Map D3
Modern Road Map E4 Tērbatas 16a, LV-4201
KRĀSLAVA: Priedaine € Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6420 7301
Guesthouse Road Map E4 Tel 6460 7820 ∑ hotelwolmar.lv
Klusā 2, LV-5601 ∑ hotelkolonna.com A large, central hotel that’s a short
Tel 2643 0798 An unpretentious hotel with a walk from the main tourist sights,
A popular guesthouse on the good restaurant (see p325) and Wolmar offers spacious rooms
banks of the Daugava river, just summer terrace overlooking the with walk-in showers. Facilities
outside the town centre, Priedaine river, and attentive service. There include sauna and Jacuzzi.
has spotless rooms with basic is a generous breakfast buffet.
furnishings and river views. VALMIERA: Dikli Palace Hotel €€
SALACGRĪVA: Kapteinu Osta €€ Luxury Road Map D3
Guesthouse Road Map D3 Dikļi parish, Kocēnu district, LV-4223
DK Choice Pērnavas 49a, LV-4033 Tel 6420 7480
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ Tel 6402 4930 ∑ diklipalacehotel.com
Luxury Road Map D3 ∑ kapteinuosta.lv Housed in a beautifully restored
Bīriņi, LV-4013 A seafront complex with spotless, 19th-century manor in wooded
Tel 6402 4033 nautically themed rooms, self- parkland, this hotel offers
∑ birinupils.lv catering cabins, and a campsite. opulent rooms, a pool, relaxing
Surrounded by acres of park- Guests can use the yacht club’s spa treatments and a stunning
land, Bīriņu manor house is a living area and sauna. restaurant (see p325).
stately Neo-Gothic building
dating from the mid-19th
century. Book a comfortable en-
suite room in the neighbouring
neighbouring
Gardener’s House or splash
out on a regal room in the
castle itself, though it’s often
booked up for weddings and
other events. There is an
excellent restaurant (see p325).
LUDZA: Cirmas Ezerkrasts €

Guesthouse Road Map E3
Zvirgzdenes parish, Ezernieki, LV-4600
Tel 2833 2523
∑ cirmasezerkrasts.lv
This is a secluded complex of
smart log cabins of varying sizes, Façade of Kupfernams Guesthouse with traditional shuttered windows, Ventspils

Where to Stay in Lithuania

Vivulskio Apartments € Hotel Rinno €€
Vilnius Apartments Street Finder B4 Modern Street Finder C4
Tel 6300 0162 Vingriu gatvė 25, LT-01141
∑ vivulskioapartamentai.lt Tel (5) 262 2828
DK Choice This complex of doubles and ∑ rinno.lt
Comfort Hotel LT € apartments is a 10-minute walk This well-established Old Town
Modern Street Finder C5 from the Old Town. There's a hotel has high standards of service
Mindaugo gatvė 27, LT-03212 sauna, hot tub and optional in- and rooms furnished in classical
Tel (5) 250 5111 room breakfast service. style. Delicious pancake breakfast.
∑ comforthotel.lt
Part of the Nordic Choice Hotel Amberton €€ Mabre Residence €€
chain, the hip Comfort Hotel LT Modern Street Finder D3 Historic Street Finder E4
features large rooms with ultra- L Stuokos-Gucevičiaus gatvė 1, 01122 Maironio gatvė 13, LT-01124
stylish decor. There is free tea Tel (5) 210 7461 Tel (5) 212 2087
and coffee for guests, as well as ∑ ambertonhotels.com ∑ mabre.lt
use of the gym. The excellent Opposite Cathedral Square, this This plush four-star hotel occupies
restaurant is run by a top chic hotel has a good choice of an imposing old monastery
Lithuanian chef and the Old large, smartly furnished rooms, with a courtyard garden. The
Town is a 10-minute walk away. plus an excellent restaurant. comfortable rooms lack historic
features but the restaurant
Artis €€ retains a vaulted ceiling.
Fabrika Hostel & Gallery € Spa hotel Street Finder D3
Hostel Street Finder C2 Totorių gatvė 23, LT-01120 Novotel Vilnius Centre €€
A Vienuolio gatvė 4, LT-01104 Tel (5) 266 0366 Modern Street Finder C3
Tel (5) 203 1005 ∑ centrumhotels.com Gedimino prospektas 16, LT-01103
∑ fabrikahostel.com Located in the Old Town, this Tel (5) 266 6200
This trendy hostel in an industrial hotel offers free morning use of ∑ novotel.com
space hosts art exhibitions. It has the pool and sauna. Upper floor Appealing to both tourists and
great facilities, but soundproofing rooms have lovely views. business travellers, this popular,
between rooms is minimal. central hotel has excellent
Dvaras €€ facilities and consistently high
Litinterp Vilnius € Guesthouse Street Finder D3 standards of service. Upper floor
Guesthouse Street Finder E3 Tilto gatvė 3, LT-01101 rooms have great views.
Bernardinu gatvė 7, LT-01124 Tel (5) 210 7370
Tel (5) 212 3850 ∑ dvaras.lt Secret Garden
∑ litinterp.com The creaky floorboards and fine Boutique B&B €€
A simple B&B in an 18th-century furnishings of this classy Old Town Guesthouse Street Finder E3
Old Town house, Litinterp has guesthouse give it the feel of a Bernardinu gatvė 4, LT-01124
bright, airy rooms with kitchen- richly designed country cottage. Tel 6827 2034
ettes and some shared bathrooms. ∑ secretgarden.lt
Hotel Domus Maria €€ This quaint cottage has a
Old Vilnius Apartments € Historic Street Finder D5 courtyard garden and two comfy
Apartments Street Finder E3 Aušros Vartų gatvė 12, LT-01129 en-suite rooms. High-speed Wi-Fi,
S Skapo gatvė 10, LT-01122 Tel (5) 264 4880 great breakfast and free parking.
Tel 6114 3637 ∑ domusmaria.com
∑ oldvilniusapartments.lt This former 16th-century nunnery Gaono Residence
A 17th-century Old Town building has smart rooms with period Apartments €€€
with five immaculate apartments, features and sloping ceilings. Luxury Street Finder D4
a pleasant courtyard seating area Gaono gatvė 8, LT-01103
and free tea and coffee. Tel 6878 4525
∑ g-rez.lt
Park Villa € Large, lavishly appointed apart-
Spa hotel ments in a historic Old Town
Vaidilutes gatvė 6a, LT-10100 mansion. Each apartment
Tel (5) 211 3356 has its own private entrance
∑ parkvilla.lt and separate living area and
A perfect getaway from the bedrooms, but no kitchen.
bustle of the city, this tranquil
hotel is set in wooded parkland a Kempinski Hotel Cathedral
10-minute drive from the centre. Square €€€
Luxury Street Finder D3
Vilnius Home B&B € Universiteto gatvė 14/2, LT-01122
Guesthouse Street Finder C3 Tel (5) 220 1100
Pylimo gatvė 14b, LT-01117 ∑ kempinski.com
Tel 6560 5036 A flawless hotel overlooking the
∑ vilniushome.eu cathedral and Gediminas Tower,
The rooms at this clean, central Kempinksi offers opulent rooms
B&B share bathrooms, a kitchen and suites, excellent facilities
and a living area. Breakfast is Understated façade of Old Town guesthouse including a pool and spa and
pancakes and home-made jam. Litinterp Vilnius a huge breakfast buffet.
For key to prices see p296; Vilnius Street Finder see pp250–51; Road Map see back inside cover
W H E R E TO S TAY I N L I T H UA N I A 305
The Narutis Hotel €€€

Historic Street Finder D3
Pilies gatvė 24, LT-01123
Tel (5) 212 2894
∑ narutis.com
Some of the luxurious rooms in
this 16th-century building have
original ceiling murals. There is a
spa centre and small pool.
Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel €€€

Luxury Street Finder D4
Didzioji gatvė 35/2, LT-01128
Tel (5) 212 0110
∑ radissonblu.com
In a century-old building, this is
one of the city’s best hotels. It has
well-appointed rooms, superb Elegant and well-furnished room at the Narutis Hotel in Vilnius
service and first-rate facilities.
BIRŠTONAS: Audenis €
DK Choice Modern Road Map D6
DK Choice ANYKŠČIAI: SPA Vilnius Lelijų gatvė 3, LT-59207
Ramada Hotel & Suites €€€ Anykščiai €€ Tel (319) 61 300
Luxury Street Finder D4 Spa hotel Road Map D5 ∑ audenis.lt
Subačiaus gatvė 2, LT-01127 Vilniaus gatvė 80, LT-29142 This smart hotel in the centre of
Tel (5) 255 3355 Tel (313) 53 811 town has simply furnished rooms,
∑ ramadavilnius.lt ∑ anyksciai.spa-vilnius.lt excellent service and a cosy café-
Rated among Lithuania’s best This four-star spa complex restaurant with a fireplace.
hotels, this regal place is housed tucked away in the woods has a
in a beautifully reno
renovated
vated 16th- striking modern design and large BIRŠTONAS: Nemuno Slėnis €€
century building. The opulently rooms with balconies and floor- Spa hotel Road Map D6
furnished rooms feature richly to-ceiling windows. Its restaurant Kampiškių gatvė 8, LT-59107
patterned wallpaper, sumptuous caters for a wide range of dietary Tel 6996 4028
fabrics and marble bathrooms. needs. There are indoor and out- ∑ nemunoslenis.lt
door pools, a children’s playroom Hidden away in the woods, this
and a range of spa treatments. lakeside hotel has a flamboyant
Relais & Châteaux Stikliai interior and heavy, antique-style
Hotel €€€ furniture. Facilities include a spa
Luxury Street Finder D4 AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK: centre, pool and tennis courts.
Gaono gatvė 7, LT-01131 Šakarva €
Tel (5) 264 9595 Guesthouse Road Map E5 DRUSKININKAI: ViLaima €
∑ relaischateaux.com Šakarva, Ignalinos r. sav, LT-30204 Guesthouse Road Map D6
Rooms boast beautiful upholstery Tel 6871 6136 Žalioji gatvė 28, LT-66116
in rich fabrics and luxurious bath- ∑ sakarva.lt Tel 6752 4494
rooms in this lavish Old Town A picturesque lakeside spot with ∑ vilaima.wordpress.com
hotel with Baroque and Gothic three wooden cottages, each of Close to the river, this family-run
features. Popular with celebrities. which has a kitchen and will sleep guesthouse has a pretty garden.
many. Kayaks and bicycles for hire. Guests have the use of a shared
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel €€€ kitchen and dining area.
Luxury Street Finder E3 AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Bernardinu gatvė 8/8, LT-01124 Žuvėdra € DRUSKININKAI: Grand Spa
Tel (5) 266 5885 Modern Road Map E5 Lietuva Hotel Druskininkai €€
∑ shakespeare.lt Mokyklos gatvė 11, Ignalina, Spa hotel Road Map D6
Converted from a 17th-century LT-30119 V Kudirkos gatvė 45, LT-66120
mansion, this atmospheric Old Tel 6860 9069 Tel (313) 51 200
Town hotel has original oak beams ∑ zuvedra.com ∑ grandspa.lt
and an indulgent breakfast. Each Just outside the park, this lake- This well-equipped complex
of its rooms is named after a writer. side hotel has deluxe rooms with has free access to the spa facilities
lake views and a good restaurant and two excellent restaurants
with a summer terrace (see p328). (see p328). It has a wave pool
and water slides for children.
Central Lithuania AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Miškiniškės €€ DRUSKININKAI: Hotel
ALYTUS: Motel Linas € Guesthouse Road Map E5 Violeta €€
Guesthouse Road Map D6 Kazitiškio sen., Ignalina, LT-30252 Spa hotel Road Map D6
Senoji gatvė 2, LT-62121 Tel 6160 0692 Kurorto gatvė 4, LT-66126
Tel 6826 5950 ∑ miskiniskes.lt Tel (313) 60 600
∑ motelislinas.lt Combining comfort with ∑ violeta.lt
This welcoming venue on a quiet isolation, this rustic farmstead Surrounded by parkland, this
street near the town centre has has log cabins and cottages with grand riverside hotel offers a
simply furnished en-suites, an out- stoves. Guests can try archery range of facilities including pools,
door pool and children’s play area. and axe throwing. a spa centre and tennis courts.
KAUNAS: Kauno MOLĖTAI LAKELAND: Apple

Arkivyskupijos € Island €
Guesthouse Road Map D5 Camp site Road Map D5
Rotušės aikštė 21, LT-44279 Grabuostas lake, Žalvariai village
Tel (37) 322 597 Tel (383) 50 073
∑ kaunas.lcn.lt/guesthouse ∑ appleisland.lt
This Old Town guesthouse is run An idyllic island camp site with
by the Kaunas Archdiocese. The cosy wooden cottages. Numerous
clean, airy rooms have parquet activities are available including
floors and huge windows. canoeing, tennis and billiards.
KAUNAS: The Monk’s Bunk € MOLĖTAI LAKELAND: Spa

Hostel Road Map D5 Hotel Belvilis €€
Laisvės al. 48-2, LT-44238 Spa hotel Road Map D5
Tel 6209 9695 Kirneilės kaimas, LT-33166
A popular hostel just outside the Tel (383) 51 098
Old Town with clean, spacious ∑ belvilis.lt
dorms and a shared living area. This luxurious lakeside complex
Helpful staff ensure a pleasant stay. in picturesque woodlands offers
beautifully designed rooms and Beautiful pine-clad double room at rustic
KAUNAS: Best Western cottages, and an exhaustive getaway Akmeninė Rezidencija, Trakai
Santakos Hotel €€ choice of spa treatments.
Modern Road Map D5
J Gruodžio gatvė 21, LT-44293 PANEVĖŽYS: Romantic Hotel €€ Western Lithuania
Tel (37) 302 702 Historic Road Map D5
∑ santakahotel.eu Kranto gatvė 24, LT-35173 CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
A reliable option on the edge of Tel (45) 584 860 PARK: Nidos Kempingas €
the Old Town with an appealing ∑ romantic.lt Camp site Road Map B5
interior featuring exposed brick- In an old flour mill, this hotel has Taikos gatvė 45a, Nida, LT-93121
work. Guests have free morning well-designed rooms in earthy Tel 6824 1150
use of the pool and sauna. browns, a fitness centre, pool and ∑ kempingas.lt
upscale restaurant (see p329). Offering a huge range of
activities in a picturesque wood,
DK Choice TRAKAI: Villa Sofia € this is a well organized and
KAUNAS: Monte Pacis €€ Guesthouse Road Map D6 popular camp site. Rooms and
Historic Road Map D5 Zemaitės 13, LT-21142 self-catering apartments are also
T Masiulio gatvė 31, LT-52436 Tel 6153 5113 available. Book well ahead.
Tel 6559 5185 Wonderful cottage-style accom-
∑ montepacis.lt modation in a secluded villa with CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
Located in a still-functioning just three en-suite rooms. Guests PARK: Mariu Krantas €€
old monastery just outside have free use of the hotel’s bikes. Guesthouse Road Map B5
Kaunas, Monte Pacis offers a Purvynes gatvė 9-2, Nida, LT-93123
hugely atmospheric stay. TRAKAI: Akmeninė Tel 6882 6910
Baroque-style rooms feature Rezidencija €€ In the woods just outside Nida,
four-poster beds, high ceilings Guesthouse Road Map D6 this peaceful guesthouse has
and polished wood floors. It’s a Bražuolė village, LT-21100 large rooms with views of the
great spot to wind down in Tel 6983 0544 lagoon through French
complete peace and quiet. ∑ akmeninerezidencija.lt windows. Attentive staff.
Guests without transport will This divine lakeside getaway has
have to rely on taxis. snug rooms and rustic villas with CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
views of Trakai Castle, as well as a PARK: Nerija €€
fine restaurant (see p329). In winter Modern hotel Road Map B5
KĖDAINIAI: Grėjaus Namas € the lake becomes a skating rink. Pamario gatvė 13, Nida, LT-93124
Historic Road Map D5 Tel 6823 8948
Didžioji gatvė 36, LT-57257 VARĖNA: Vila Ula € ∑ neringahotels.lt
Tel (347) 51 500 Guesthouse Road Map D6 Located on a quiet road a short
∑ grejausnamas.lt Burokaraistėlės km., Perloja, LT-65383 distance from the centre of Nida,
One of Kėdainiai’s best hotels, Tel 6799 3318 Nerija has spacious rooms with
Grėjaus Namas has large, modern ∑ vilaula.lt large windows and balconies.
rooms and apartments in an 18th- Each lakeside room, apartment
century building. Excellent service and cabin here has a large balcony CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
and restaurant (see p329), but only with a terrific view. Snorkelling, PARK: Nidos Seklyčia €€
some rooms have air-conditioning. cycling and hiking are on offer. Guesthouse Road Map B5
Lotmiškio gatvė 1, Nida, LT-93123
MARIJAMPOLĖ: Mercure € VISAGINAS: Gabriella € Tel (469) 50 000
Modern Road Map C6 Modern Road Map E5 ∑ neringaonline.lt
J Basanavičiaus a. 8, LT-68308 Jaunystės gatvė 21, LT- 31230 This intimate four-room guest-
Tel (343) 97 778 Tel (386) 70 171 house has four-poster beds
∑ mercure.com ∑ gabriella.lt and antique-style furniture, plus
Overlooking the main square, A functional hotel with clean, good sauna and steam bath
this hotel with a restaurant is simple rooms. Guests have the facilities. The restaurant has
popular with both tourists and use of a small fitness centre with delicious home-cooked food
business travellers. sauna and steam bath. (see p330).
For key to prices see p250–51; Road Map see back inside cover
W H E R E TO S TAY I N L I T H UA N I A 307
KLAIPĖDA: Klaipėda Hostel € guesthouse a short distance from PLUNGĖ: Žemsodis €

Hostel Road Map B5 the centre. There's a pretty garden Camp site Road Map C5
Butku Juzes 7-4, LT-92228 with an outdoor seating area. Mardosų kaimas , LT-90103
Tel (46) 211 879 Tel 6202 6033
∑ klaipedahostel.com PALANGA: Boutique Vila ∑ zemsodis.lt
Next to the bus and train Artemide €€ Cosy log cabins at this riverside
stations, this spotless hostel has Guesthouse Road Map B5 camp site come with a fireplace
several large mixed dorms with Ievu gatvė 8, LT-00155 and a kitchenette. A popular spot
shared bathrooms. Tel 6180 8158 for fishing and canoeing.
∑ vilaartemide.lt
KLAIPĖDA: Pirklių Namai € In a quiet suburb, this lodging has ŠIAULIAI: Saulininkas
Guesthouse Road Map B5 chunky wooden furniture and Guesthouse €
Naujoji Sodo gatvė 12, LT-91227 antique design touches through- Guesthouse Road Map C4
Tel (46) 313 179 out. Outdoor pool. Lukauskio gatvė 5, LT-76236
∑ pirkliunamai.lt Tel (41) 436 555
Six elegantly furnished rooms PALANGA: Palanga Spa ∑ saulininkas.com
are offered at this intimate Design Hotel €€€ A functional option with bright,
guesthouse in a meticulously Luxury Road Map B5 simple rooms. Simple meals are
restored 18th-century mansion. Birutės al. 60, LT-00135 available in the restaurant.
Tel (460) 41 414
KLAIPĖDA: Hotel Navalis €€ ∑ design.palangahotel.lt ŠIAULIAI: Turnė €
Modern Road Map B5 This strikingly modern five-star Modern Road Map C4
H Manto gatvė 23, LT-92234 hotel has opulently furnished Rūdės str. 9, LT-77155
Tel (46) 404 200 rooms with comfortable seating Tel (41) 500 150
∑ navalis.lt areas and private balconies. ∑ turne.lt
Housed in a 19th-century red- Simply furnished rooms, a decent
brick building, the contemporary PALANGA: Vanagupe €€€ breakfast, and a warm welcome
rooms here are elegant. There is Luxury Road Map B5 are offered at this modest hotel
a good restaurant. Vanagupes gatvė 31, LT-00169 in a leafy neighbourhood.
Tel (460) 41 199
KLAIPĖDA: National Hotel €€ ∑ vanagupe.lt ŠIAULIAI: Girelė €€
Historic Road Map B5 A plush five-star beach hotel, this Guesthouse Road Map C4
Žvejų gatvė 21/Teatro gatvė 1, has a classy restaurant and a Domantų kaim. 1a, Meškuičių
LT-91247 well-equipped spa centre, plus village, LT-81439
Tel (46) 211 111 horse riding and tennis facilites. Tel (41) 211 043
∑ nationalhotel.lt ∑ sodybagirele.lt
With an enviable location over- Conveniently located for a visit
looking the port and the Old Town, DK Choice to the Hill of Crosses, Girelė offers
this comfortable hotel makes a PALANGA: Villa Chateau spotless modern rooms in several
good base. Excellent service. Amber €€€ large timber cottages. There are
Luxury Road Map B5 fishing opportunities nearby.
KLAIPĖDA: Radisson Blu Hotel Naglio aleja 17, LT-00136
Klaipėda €€€ Tel 6143 9919 ŽEMAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Luxury Road Map B5 ∑ chateauamber.eu Linelis €
Sauliu gatvė 28, LT-92231 Right on the beach and edged Modern Road Map C4
Tel (46) 490 800 by a pine forest, Villa Chateau Paplatelės village, LT-90423
∑ radissonblu.com Amber boasts one of the best Tel 6557 7666
This four-star option with stylish, locations in the region. Its ∑ linelis.lt
well-appointed rooms and windows overlook the sea and By far the best accommodation
consistently high standards is in a golden sand dunes, and the in the park, this large leisure
central location. Facilities include sunset views are unbeatable. complex has its own beach on
state-of-the-art conference rooms, The facilities and service are Lake Plateliai and organizes
a fitness centre and a steam bath. first-rate, too. canoeing, sailing and diving trips.
It has a good restaurant (see p331).
NEMUNAS DELTA: Ventainė €
Holiday complex Map B5
Marių gatvė 7, Ventė, LT-99361
Tel (441) 68 525
∑ ventaine.lt
On the shore of the Curonian
Lagoon, this guesthouse, camp site
and leisure centre complex is ideal
for boat trips, canoeing, tennis and
horse riding. There is also a sauna
and a restaurant (see p331).
PALANGA: Villa Gamanta €

Guesthouse Road Map B5
Baltijos aikštė 12, LT-00131
Tel (460) 48 885
∑ gamanta.lt
Bright, modern self-catering rooms
are offered in this well-presented Cosy double room at Villa Sofia, Trakai
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Restaurant culture in Estonia, Latvia and and popular resort towns also have a fairly
Lithuania has changed dramatically in impressive choice of dining options.
recent years. Although traditional food is Good food is an integral part of Baltic
still very popular, there has been a huge culture and the abundance of traditional-
increase in all kinds of new restaurants style restaurants in each country attests to
specializing in everything from eclectic the pride many people take in their national
international cuisine to quality pizza. The cuisine. Traditional Baltic food may not be
considerable rise in the diversity and par ticularly subtle, but it is tasty and makes
standards of restaurants has happened for a hearty meal. It is often best enjoyed in
across all three Baltic States, although there the countryside where portions are
is far more variety and choice of cuisine in generous and ingredients tend to be
the capital cities. A few other large cities deliciously fresh.
Types of Restaurants
Restaurants and cafés in the
Baltic States are locally referred
to as restoran and kohvik in
Estonia, restorāns and kafejnīca
in Latvia, and restoranas and
kavinė in Lithuania. Both types
of establishment vary widely in
the type of food they offer.
Restaurants can either be very
luxurious and modern places or
basic food-and-beer joints that
do not differ significantly from
pubs. Similarly, cafés can be
pleasant and stylish. Most of
them offer a decent but cheap
meal of hearty proportions.
Sometimes they act as a meet- Rustic styling at Estonian restaurant Kuldse Notsu Körts in Tallinn (see p315)
ing place for local drinkers. All
cafés have a good selection of are common in small towns and Big breakfasts are rare in the
alcohol on sale. Most modern in the countryside. Sometimes, Baltic States. Until quite recently,
bars often have a small but they are rustically furnished the only breakfast foods
good-quality menu which is places that offer an excellent available were pastries or
available until late. Locally run standard of traditional food pancakes. These days, however,
pubs are known as kõrts in and local beer. Fast food has restaurants offer a range of
Estonia, krogs in Latvia and not really taken off in the breakfasts, including variations
baras in Lithuania. Although rare Baltic States and can only be on the English fry-up. Lunch is
in Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius, pubs found in central locations in still the main meal of the day
the capitals. for many people. Nonetheless,
eating out has become such a
recreational habit that
Dining Hours restaurants often fill up in the
The rise in restaurant culture evenings, although people
has seen a proliferation of tend to eat early, normally
restaurants which keep similar between 6pm and 9pm.
opening hours throughout the Café culture is big in the
Baltic States. They open between Baltic States. Most cafés open
10 and 11am and close between any time from 8am to 10am
11pm and midnight. In small and close around 9pm or
towns, restaurants are more 10pm, although in small
likely to open later and close towns they often close earlier.
earlier, and in some very In more remote places,
seasonal destinations a few many cafés remain closed
restaurants are open only on Sundays. Pubs and cafés
Bright contemporary dining room at one of during summer months, always have an array of
Riga’s best restaurants, Neiburgs (see p321) closing entirely out of season. snacks available.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 309
Disabled Visitors
Few restaurants, besides the
new ones, offer easy access for
disabled people in the Baltic
States, but the situation is
improving. Tallinn is slightly
ahead of Vilnius and Rīga in this
regard. Hotel restaurants are a
good option for disabled visitors
as they have more facilities.
Smoking
Smoking in enclosed public
spaces, such as restaurants, bars,
Dining outside at Domini Canes, right at the heart of Rīga’s Old Town (see p321) clubs, hotel lobbies, buses and
trains, is banned in the Baltic
Menus somewhat lower than in other States. The only option for
English-language menus are European countries, as is the smokers is to sit at an outdoor
commonplace in the capital cost of alcoholic drinks. Prices table in the summer, although
cities and tourist resorts. In small are highest in the capital cities, some restaurants even prohibit
towns and the countryside, particularly in tourist spots. outdoor smoking. However, a
however, such menus are much Tax is always included in the few cigar bars have been
scarcer. Most people in the price. Cover charges are quite licensed to allow smoking.
Baltic States speak some English, rare, and usually only apply to
so it may be possible to ask for restaurants or bars which
help in deciphering the menu. include special live music sets. Recommended
After Russian, German is the Cafés are the most affordable Restaurants
most common language in eating option, but many only There is a broad choice of
Latvia and Estonia. Consequently, accept cash. However, credit restaurants in Estonia, Latvia
menus often come with German and debit card payment is and Lithuania, and the listings
or Russian translations. becoming common throughout on pages 314–31 cover a wide
the Baltic States. range of eateries and cuisine
types across all three Baltic
Vegetarians States. They include characterful
Meat is integral to Baltic Tipping cafés, taverns and traditional
cuisine. Although there is Tipping is a relatively new restaurants serving hearty
an increasing choice of concept in the Baltic States. national or local fare, numerous
vegetarian (vegetaarlane in Service charges are usually ethnic eateries, some vegetarian
Estonian, veģetārie in Latvian included in the bill though venues and elegant fine-dining
and vegetaras in Lithuanian) some leading restaurants add options offering international
dishes on offer in most decent a service charge to the total, or marvellously inventive
restaurants, these vegetarian which should be clearly fusion menus.
menu options are limited to indicated. Tipping is generally Throughout the listings, those
the capital cities. only expected in larger establishments that stand out
establishments with table from the crowd for their
service. The general rule is to exceptional cuisine and service,
Reservations leave 10 per cent or less of the ambience or historic or unique
Reservations are usually made total bill. Tipping in cafés and setting have been flagged as a
by phone, although in some bars is rare. DK Choice. Among these high-
cases they can be made via the lighted restaurants are some of
Internet. It is unnecessary to the Baltic States’ finest and most
make a booking for lunch, but it Children innovative dining options. A few
is sensible to reserve a table for Although children are examples are Tchaikovsky in
dinner, in a good restaurant in welcome in restaurants, only Tallinn (see p316), serving superb
one of the capital cities, a few popular chains offer Russian–French fusion cuisine,
particularly on a Friday or provisions such as half portions. DikĮu Pils in Valmiera, Latvia (see
Saturday evening. In bigger towns and cities, p325), offering modern takes of
however, menus for children local specialities made with
are becoming more common. fresh ingredients and Lithuania’s
Paying It is usually possible to arrange Uoksas restaurant in Kaunas (see
The price of eating out has for something off the menu p329), serving highly creative
increased considerably in the to be prepared to meet international dishes prepared
Baltic States, but it is still children’s needs. with the latest technologies.
The Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania

Traditional Baltic cooking is hearty and filling, designed to satisfy
after hard physical labour and during long, gloomy winters. In the
past, staple dishes were mostly soups and porridges made with
grains such as barley, although coastal communities also ate fresh
and preserved fish. Meat was usually reserved for festivals. Today it
is central to most dishes, typically accompanied by boiled potatoes
and rye bread. Popular seasonings include garlic, onions, caraway
seeds and dill. Baltic cuisines have been influenced by those of
neighbouring countries, particularly Russia and Germany in Estonia
and Latvia, and Poland in Lithuania. Bunch of fresh dill
animal could be wasted. and an extensive network of

Chicken and beef are also rivers and lakes throughout the
widely available, while region. Many traditional recipes
game such as wild boar, fell out of use during the Soviet
hare and venison, may be era when most fish was
found in both rural and exported. The Baltic sprat, in
urban restaurants. particular, was canned and
eaten throughout the Soviet
Union. Today, fish is usually
Fish and Seafood prepared by frying or baking,
Fishing is a venerable history in but it is also smoked and
the Baltic States, with the long salted. The prevalence of this in
Basket of wild mushrooms gathered in the coastlines of Estonia and Latvia Estonia is said to show a link
woods of Latvia
Salmon fillet
Plaice Herrings
Sprats
Trout Bream
Meat, Poultry and Game
Pork is on almost every Baltic
menu, whether breaded and
fried like a schnitzel or in the
form of bacon and sausages.
Roast pork has long been a
festive treat. Pork fat is also
eaten, often accompanied by
rye bread, and several dishes,
such as Lithuanian liežuvis
(cow’s tongue), stem from a
time when no part of the Some of the many varieties of fish caught in the clear Baltic waters
Baltic Dishes and Specialities

The long list of Baltic soups and porridges includes
Latvian putra (porridge with pork fat, often
with meat or smoked fish added).
Popular sausages include
Lithuanian vėdarai, made from
pig’s intestines stuffed with
potato. Estonia is noted for
verevoorst (blood sausage)
and verleib (blood bread). Latvia’s
signature dish is pelēkie zirņi (grey peas
Red caviar on rye bread with bacon). Lithuania’s kugelis (grated
potato pudding often incorporating bacon, onion and eggs) is
served with sour cream. A favourite Lithuanian snack is kepta duona, Pīrāgi (Latvia) and pirukas
also known as grauzdini (fried rye bread with garlic) in Latvia and (Estonia) are small leavened
served with cheese. Throughout the region, you can sample Russian- pasties, usually filled with bacon
style pelmeni (dumplings). or cabbage.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 311
They are eaten raw, made into

tarts, puddings or compotes, or
preserved for the winter.
Dairy Produce
Dairy products feature strongly
in Baltic cuisine. Local butter
is held in high regard, while
Estonian kefir (fermented cow’s
milk), Lithuanian varškė (cheese
curd) and Latvian rūgušpiens
(curdled milk) are also very
popular. Caraway cheese is
eaten by Latvians, especially
Baked goodies at a cake shop in Rīga in midsummer. The most
ubiquitous dairy product is sour
with Scandinavian traditions. caperata, meaning “gypsy cream. A base for many Baltic
Popular freshwater fish include mushrooms”, are also picked. sauces, it is also poured directly
pike, eel and elvers. Caviar is Local apples, plums and pears on to a wide range of dishes.
also available, including the appear in fruit pies and tarts, but
relatively affordable red variety. the true fruit bounty of the ON THE MENU
region is its berries and currants.
Picking berries is a popular Kartupeļu pankūkas (Latvia)
Fruit and Vegetables summer pastime (see p359). Potato pancakes.
The Baltic climate limits the Kibinai (Lithuania) Mutton and
cultivation of fruit and onion pies, a speciality of the
vegetables, and they are not Karaim community.
strongly represented in Šližikai (Lithuania) Biscuits
traditional recipes. By far the served with poppy seed milk
most common vegetable is traditionally on Christmas Eve.
the potato, introduced in the Rosolje (Estonia) Herring,
18th century and now served meat, beetroot and apple salad,
at almost every meal. Other in a whipped cream and
accompaniments include mustard dressing.
simple salads, often just Seljanka (Estonia) and soļanka
cucumber and tomato. Mush- (Latvia) A soup made with meat,
rooms are popular and, every pickled vegetables or fish, which
autumn, people roam the forests has Russian origins.
to gather mushrooms, either to
Zrazai (Lithuania) Thin slices of
eat or to sell (see p359). Cepe is beef rolled with onion, bread and
preferred, although varieties Freshly picked redcurrants at an often mushrooms, then baked.
such as chanterelle and rozites Estonian farm
Šaltibarščiai (Lithuania) is a Cepelinai (Lithuania), or Pannkoogid (Estonia), huge,

chilled soup made of beetroot, “zeppelins”, are meat-stuffed fluffy pancakes served with a
cucumber, chopped egg, kefir potato dumplings in a sour berry compote, show the
and dill. cream, onion and bacon sauce. influence of Russian cuisine.
What to Drink
Beer is popular in the Baltic States and several of the region’s
breweries date back to the 19th century. Vodka is not as
popular as it was during the Soviet era, although it is still
widely drunk and both local and Russian brands are available.
The region also has some unusual spirits and liqueurs made
with herbs. Although wine-drinking does not have a
distinguished history, imported wine is available in
restaurants and many affordable local sparkling wines are
available. The most prominent traditional soft drink, kali in
Rīga Black Bobelinė,
Estonia, kvass in Latvia or gira in Lithuania, has been claimed Balsam, Latvia Lithuania
as a forerunner of strong beer. Customarily made from rye
bread and very mildly alcoholic, it is a refreshing alternative blackcurrant juice or vodka.
to aerated drinks such as cola. Specialist shops, and some
bars, also sell Latvian liqueurs
such as the caraway-flavoured
Wines stopped during the Soviet Allažu Ķimelis.
Although the Baltic States are occupation. It has been Lithuania has a range of
not a major wine-producing restarted but is very limited and herbal liqueurs, including Trejos
region, both Latvia and often the only chance to try the Devynerios. Concocted by a
Lithuania produce sparkling wine is by attending the annual pharmacist in the late 19th
wines, such as Rīga wine festival in summer. century, Trejos Devynerios was
Šampanietis and Alita listed as a legal patent medicine
Šampanas respectively. In between the two world wars.
Estonia, mulled red wine, Spirits and Liqueurs Vodka drinkers may want to try
known as hõõgvein or glögg, is The best-known Estonian Starka, which is distilled from
popular in winter. Served liqueur is the sweet-tasting rye grain, while other traditional
warm, it has a spicy taste due Vana Tallinn, which has drinks are honey-based mead
to the cinnamon and cloves ingredients such as citrus oils, and bobelinė, a liqueur made
used to flavour it. Fruit wines, cinnamon, vanilla and rum. It with cranberry juice. In rural
such as Põltsamaa Kuldne, can be drunk neat but is areas throughout the
which is made from apples, are worth trying in coffee or region, local people brew
also common. over ice cream. It is also their own, very potent,
Latvia appears in the Guinness used to make cocktails or vodka. Visitors should be
Book of World Records for the mixed with white wine or wary of this, as it is
northermost open-air vineyard champagne. Vodka is also usually of low quality and
in the world. Sabile Wine Hill popular in Estonia, and there have been cases
vineyard (Sabiles, Vīna Kalns) Viru Valge is the most where batches have
(see p182), has a long history of common local brand. In Vana Tallinn been contaminated
viniculture, but production addition to the original liqueur with methanol. In
version, it is available Lithuania, a legitimate
in flavoured varieties drink takes the name of this
such as vanilla, lemon illegal vodka, Samanė, but is not
and watermelon. as strong.
For visitors to Latvia, Rīga
Black Balsam is an
unmissable drink and Beer
makes a popular After independence in 1991, the
souvenir, although region’s state breweries were
perhaps as much for privatized and many of them
its ceramic bottle as were subsequently bought by
for the liquid inside. large international corporations.
Developed in 1752 as Baltic Beverages Holdings,
a medicinal tonic, jointly owned by Carlsberg and
it is composed of a Scottish & Newcastle, owns
top-secret list of several of the region’s biggest
ingredients and is an brands, such as Saku in Estonia,
acquired taste. Aldaris in Latvia and Utenos and
Occasionally drunk Švyturys in Lithuania. The
Rīgas sparkling Põltsamaa Kuldne Glögg mulled neat, it is often mixed Finnish company Olvi has
wine, Latvia fruit wine, Estonia wine, Estonia with cola, hot bought Cēsis, which is Latvia’s
W H AT TO E AT A N D D R I N K 313
oldest brewery, A Le Coq in

Estonia and Ragutis – now
branded Volfas Engleman – in
Lithuania. Also in Lithuania,
Kalnapilis is owned by the
Danish Brewery Group. These
major brands predominate in
both bars and shops, although
some of the more popular
international beers are also
available in the three countries.
The two main categories are
light (helein in Estonian, gaišais
in Latvian and šviesus in
Lithuanian) and dark (tume in
Estonian, tumšais in Latvian and
tamsus in Lithuanian). However,
the major breweries have diversi- Saku Brewery, producer of some of the most popular beer in Estonia
fied their ranges and produce
everything from very light US- microbrewery on the premises mass-produced drink is usually
style ice beers to rich, dark por- of the huge LIDO Recreation made from malt extract and
ters. Lager drinkers will certainly Centre, just outside Rīga. In flavourings. Another common
find a light beer to suit their Lithuania, the Biržai region is lunchtime drink across the
palate, although visitors often known for its longstanding region is kefir, a very mildly
find the dark beers appealing. brewing traditions and is home alcoholic fermented milk, which
The arguably more interesting to several breweries, including is one of the key ingredients of
products of small- and medium- the popular Rinkuškiai, which šaltibarščiai (see p311).
sized breweries do make it into has both light and dark beer.
some bars, particularly in the
area where they are produced
and in the capital cities, and Soft Drinks
larger supermarkets also often The most popular soft drink in
have a decent range. Estonia’s the Baltic States is a drink
islands produce stronger drinks traditionally made from
than most of the mainland fermented rye bread and
breweries, and Saaremaa õlu is sometimes flavoured with fruit
particularly well received. or herbs, alternatively called
Interesting breweries in Latvia kali, kvass and gira. Strictly
include Užavas, which produces speaking, it is not a soft drink
unpasteurized beers that cannot and is beer-like, although it has
be stored for long and are not a very low alcohol content,
exported. Other brands worth usually about 1 per cent. It
looking out for are Valmiermuižas, vanished from the market at Kefir, fermented Kvass, malted
Tērvetes and Bauskas. The LIDO the time of the collapse of milk, Lithuania drink, Latvia
chain of restaurants brew their the Soviet Union because of
own brand of beer, with a concerns about the conditions A very popular soft drink in
of its production and storage, Estonia is Tartu Limonaad, while
since it used to be Latvia has the very rustic bērzu
dispensed from sula, made from birch sap. It is
large outdoor tanks. fermented in a barrel with
Once reintroduced, barley seeds sprinkled on top
it proved a threat and sometimes rye bread
to the market crusts are added. Traditional
dominance of flavourings for the juice include
Coca-Cola, which peppermint and sprigs of black-
responded by currant, while more modern
buying the drink additions include lemon or
manufacturers in orange zest, raisins and
the three coun- cinnamon. Something else to
tries, who now look out for in Latvia is veselība,
produce Linnuse which is a soft drink sold in
Saku Aldaris Kalnapilis Švyturys Kali, Pilskalna vessels akin to beer bottles and
Originaal, Zelta, Grand, Gintarinis, Kvass and Bajorų advertised as being fortified
Estonia Latvia Lithuania Lithuania Gira. Today, this with an abundance of vitamins.
Where to Eat and Drink in Estonia

faux rustic decor and Baltic dishes Price Guide
Tallinn at budget prices. Prices are based on a three-course meal
per person, with a half-bottle of house
wine, including tax and service.
Pan y Vino €
DK Choice Mediterranean Street Finder C1 € up to €15
III Draakon € Lai 35 €€ €15 to €35
€€€ over €35
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tel 521 4461
Town Hall, Raekoja plats 1 At this tiny wine bar, the affable
Tel 627 9020 owner cooks and serves light Vapiano €
Rough wooden tables, bare meals accompanied by a good Italian Street Finder E2
stone walls and staff dressed in choice of Italian, French and Hobujaama 10
traditional attire make for a South American wines. Tel 682 9010
proper medieval experience at This is part of a popular restaurant
this fantastic tavern in the city’s Papa Joe € chain where chefs cook pasta to
Town Hall. Elk soup is a popular Middle Eastern Street Finder E1 order in an open kitchen as diners
menu choice, as are the tradi- Sadama 25-4 stand watching. It serves fresh,
tional pasties filled with meat, Tel 5685 4660 Closed Mon tasty dishes at reasonable prices.
vegetables or fruit, all washed This great little Lebanese take-
down with beer, wine or vodka. away, serving up the best falafel Vegan Restoran V €
sandwiches and hummus in Vegan Street Finder C2
Tallinn, is perfect for vegetarians. Rataskaevu 12
Bogapott € Baba ghanoush (stewed Tel 626 9087
Estonian Street Finder C3 aubergine) and dolma (vine Dishes from around the world,
Pikk 9 leaves stuffed with rice) are such as yam and coconut curry,
Tel 631 3181 also on the menu. spicy tofu and avocado coconut
Dishes are served on handmade pudding are served at this snug
crockery at this café that doubles Pizza Americana € restaurant with a fireplace.
as a ceramics studio. A great place American Street Finder C3
to sample some light Estonian Müürivahe 2 Alter Ego €€
dishes such as mulgipuder (potato Tel 644 8837 Mediterranean Street Finder E2
and barley porridge). One of the oldest pizzerias in town, Roseni 8
Pizza Americana serves large thin Tel 5456 0339
Clayhills Gastropub € and thick crust American-style Situated in the fashionable
International Street Finder C2 pizzas with a huge variety of Rotermanni Quarter, Alter Ego
Pikk 13 toppings. Great value. serves exquisitely presented
Tel 641 9312 Mediterranean-style dishes
Modelled on Britain’s upmarket Sushi Cat € prepared from local ingredients
gastropubs, Clayhills offers a Japanese Street Finder C4 such as wild venison. Home-made
wide-ranging menu that Roosikrantsi 16 bread and an exhaustive wine list.
includes fish and chips, lamb Tel 503 0911
curry and New York steak. Lively This fun sushi restaurant extends Beer House €€
atmosphere and friendly staff. its manga and Japanese pop- German Street Finder C2
culture theme to life-size anime Dunkri 5
Faeton € portraits on the walls and staff Tel 5819 0670
Azerbaijani Street Finder F2 dressed-up as anime characters. Resembling a German beer
Köleri 2 Top-notch sushi at bargain prices. hall, this pub serves a wide
Tel 687 2125 range of brews including live,
In historic Kadriorg, this Azerbaijani unpasteurised beers and medovar
restaurant has an open fire and (honey beer). There’s pizza, but
bare stone walls. Govurma also plenty of sausage, plus crispy
(mutton stew) is typical of the pigs’ ears and chicken gizzards.
meat-heavy dishes, but there are
vegetarian options too. Controvento €€
Italian Street Finder C2
Kompressor € Vene 12
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tel 644 0470
Rataskaevu 3 A quintessential Italian restaurant
Tel 646 4210 on a narrow cobbled street with
This self-styled “Legendary Pancake outdoor tables. Many ingredients
House” lives up to its billing with are imported from Italy.
generous servings of sweet and
savoury pancakes. Soups and Farm €€
salads are also available. Estonian Street Finder C2
Viru 11
Lido € Tel 517 3261
Latvian Street Finder D3 This restaurant, with rustic decor,
Solaris Centre, Estonia puiestee 9 offers a modern take on local
Tel 609 3364 cuisine, from seed-studded bread
In a mall and part of a Latvian Diners in Lido restaurant at Solaris to baked duck fillet. All the dishes
chain, this bustling canteen has Centre, Tallinn are made from local farm produce.
Tallinn Street Finder see pp86–7
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K I N E S TO N I A 315
Golden Dragon €€
Chinese Street Finder C2
Pikk 37
Tel 631 3506
Occupying a vaulted cellar,
Golden Dragon is quite possibly
the best Chinese restaurant in
Tallinn. Portions are generous
and the extensive menu has
plenty of vegetarian options.
Grillhaus Daube €€
International Street Finder C3
Rüütli 11
Tel 645 5531
A great-value eatery with a blazing Restrained luxury at the elegant Bordoo in the Three Sisters Boutique Hotel, Tallinn
open fire and exposed brick walls.
The meat-based menu features serves an excellent selection Dominic €€€
tender steaks along with grilled of reasonably priced inter- Estonian Street Finder C2
duck, chicken, pork and salmon. national dishes. Grilled duck is Vene 10
a local favourite. Tel 641 0400
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts €€ This Old Town restaurant in a
Estonian Street Finder C2 Von Krahli Aed €€ historic building has a classical
Dunkri 8 European Street Finder C2 interior, antique-style crockery and
Tel 628 6567 Rataskaevu 8 professional service. International
This charming cellar restaurant Tel 626 9088 dishes prepared with locally
serves a satisfying selection of At this hip restaurant with sourced ingredients include deer
typically meaty traditional dishes comfy chairs and faded chops and mushroom risotto, all
such as crispy pigs’ ears and decor the emphasis is on served with excellent wines.
blood sausage, plus some healthy eating. There is a
vegetarian options. good selection for vegetarians; Gloria €€€
the menu indicates whether French Street Finder D3
Masha €€ dishes contain lactose, egg Müürivahe 2
Russian Street Finder F1 or gluten. Tel 640 6800 Closed Sun
Lootsi 14-2 This elegant restaurant and wine
Tel 600 3633 Bocca €€€ cellar dates from 1937 and specia-
This brightly lit restaurant, just International Street Finder C2 lizes in old-fashioned haute cuisine.
outside the centre, serves Olevimägi 9 Favourites such as foie gras and
excellent Russian staples such as Tel 611 7290 duck confit can be accompanied
pelmeni (stuffed dumplings) and A sleek, minimalist restaurant by a splendid selection of wines.
blini (pancakes). There is live music with atmospheric lighting
and colourful folk dancing from and a suitably contemporary Korsaar €€€
7pm, Wednesday to Saturday. menu. Among the enticing Caribbean Street Finder C2
options are ravioli stuffed with Dunkri 5
Mix €€ rabbit, roast dove and grilled Tel 666 8064
Fusion Street Finder C2 rack of lamb. First-rate service. A fun, nautically themed restaurant
Vana-Posti 11/13 Book ahead. packed with aquariums swimming
Tel 622 0998 Closed Sun with live sharks, tropical fish and
Traditional European recipes Bordoo €€€ turtles. Superb exotic dishes include
are combined with those of International Street Finder D1 Patagonian toothfish steak with
Central Asia and the Far East at Pikk 71/ Tolli 2 mango, grilled stingray fins
this smart Old Town restaurant. Tel 630 6300 with coconut-ginger tapioca, and
Creative dishes include tuna Luxurious Bordoo is nestled Madagascar chocolate ganache.
steak with rhubarb sauce and in the Three Sisters Boutique
salmon stuffed with mussels. Hotel (see p297). Intricate,
artfully presented dishes DK Choice
Rataskaevu16 €€ are served by attentive staff. Neh €€€
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tables are set well apart to Estonian Street Finder F2
Rataskaevu 16 ensure diners’ privacy and Lootsi 4
Tel 642 4025 there’s also a pleasant courtyard. Tel 602 2222
This great little restaurant with This superb restaurant with
friendly staff and superb food is Chedi €€€ an exposed redbrick interior
one of the city’s best. Roast elk Asian Street Finder C2 sources its recipe ideas from
with blackcurrant sauce and Sulevimägi 1 the Nordic islands, so there’s
warm chocolate cake are among Tel 646 1676 plenty of pickled, dried and
the tempting options. This multiple award-winning salted ingredients on the
restaurant has a stylish, menu. Dishes are imaginatively
Restoran Spot €€ modern interior with black presented on wood, glass
International Street Finder C2 slate cladding. Modern takes and slate, and the service is
Vene 4 on traditional Asian recipes excellent. Advance booking
Tel 600 4977 are stunningly presented. is essential and can be done
Run by an enthusiastic young Advance booking is via the restaurant’s website.
team, this stylish restaurant recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
local vibe. The menu features

Western Estonia plenty of tasty dishes that are
made with local meat and fish, as
HAAPSALU: Muuriaare well as some vegetarian options.
Café €
International Road Map C2 HIIUMAA ISLAND: Vetsi Tall €
Karja 7 Estonian Road Map C2
Tel 473 7527 Kassari village
A cosy venue with comfy arm- Tel 462 2550
chairs and a laid-back vibe, Occupying the tastefully
Muuriaare Café caters for all renovated stables of Kassari
tastes with a good choice of manor, Vetsi Tall is an old-style
dishes for vegetarians and inn with a lovely central fireplace.
vegans as well as meat-eaters. It serves an enticing range of
Gluten-free meals are indicated traditional Estonian dishes,
on the menu. The cakes are a including various types of
highlight. smoked fish, as well as some
international options.
HAAPSALU: Hapsal
Flower-filled roadside patio at Hapsal Dietrich €€ KIHNU ISLAND: Kurase
Dietrich, Haapsalu International Road Map C2 Café €
Karja 10 Estonian Road Map C2
Restaurant Ö €€€ Tel 509 4549 Sääre village
Estonian Street Finder D2 This casual, café-restaurant with Tel 525 5172 Closed out of season
Mere puiestee 6e a 1930s feel serves fresh, locally Despite being a humble affair,
Tel 661 6150 Closed Sun caught fish, organic beef and Kihnu Island’s only eatery serves
At this smart, upmarket crispy duck among other surprisingly good food. The
restaurant with a quirky modern tempting options. There is menu has a number of local
interior and unerring service the separate children’s menu and a specialities, including the island’s
award-winning chefs come up choice of delicious cakes. There renowned fish dishes. Open only
with short seasonal menus that is outdoor patio seating in in summer.
use locally sourced ingredients summer. Friendly service.
wherever possible. Rabbit, MATSALU NATIONAL PARK:
quail and beef usually feature. Amanda Puhvet €
There is an exemplary wine list. DK Choice Estonian Road Map C2
Advance booking is essential. HAAPSALU: Kuursaal Üdrumal village, Kullamaa parish
Summer Café €€ Tel 5550 9223
Schlössle Restaurant €€€ International Road Map C2 This is an appealing, out-of-
International Street Finder C2 Promenaadi 1 the-way eatery just off the
Schlössle Hotel, Puhavaimu 13/15 Tel 5646 2466 Closed out road to Saaremaa and Matsalu
Tel 699 7780 of season National Park – the large
A welcoming cellar restaurant One of the best restaurants in wooden watch-tower makes
beneath the Schlössle Hotel Haapsalu, Kuursaal occupies it hard to miss. It serves hearty
(see p297), with open fire, a delightful 19th-century soups, a range of mains and
traditional decor and building on the promenade. delicious pasties.
comfortable chairs. Finely With its superb acoustics, the
cooked dishes such as grilled restaurant hall is the perfect MATSALU NATIONAL PARK:
venison fillet and smoked duck spot to enjoy live classical music Roosta Holiday Village
are accompanied by an equally while tucking into the café’s Restaurant €
good wine list. delicious selection of pasta and International Road Map C2
fish dishes. As its name implies, Elbiku village , Noarootsi parish
it is open only in summer. Tel 525 6699
DK Choice Part of a lovely ensemble of
Tchaikovsky €€€ holiday cottages, this smart
Russian–French Street HAAPSALU: Wiigi Kohvik €€ restaurant offers a good mixture
fusion Finder C2 International Road Map C2 of well-prepared local and inter-
Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9 Suur-Lossi 25 national dishes. The summer
Tel 600 0610 Tel 473 3112 terrace has delightful sea views.
This atmospheric, glass-roofed The west-facing summer
restaurant in the luxury terrace at this charming seafront MUHU ISLAND: Muhu €
Hotel Telegraaf (see p296) restaurant is perfect for watching Estonian Road Map C2
consistently ranks among the the sun go down. The wide- Liiva village
top five in Flavour of Estonia’s ranging menu of well-prepared Tel 459 8160 Closed out
rigorous selection of the best dishes includes hummus, pasta, of season
restaurants in the country. duck, beef and several fish This charming, friendly restaurant
Tchaikovsky’s skilled chefs options. Helpful service. occupying a renovated dairy
create an exquisite selection is decorated with traditional
of dishes that fuse traditional HIIUMAA ISLAND: Liilia € colourful blankets and local
Russian and French recipes. Estonian Road Map C2 paraphernalia. The rather eclectic
Fine wines and faultless Hiiu 22, Käina menu is prepared from local
service are provided by Tel 463 6146 produce and includes ostrich
elegantly attired staff.ff This welcoming restaurant, part meat from a nearby farm.
of the Lillia Hotel, has a friendly Open only in summer.
For key to prices see p314; Tallinn Street Finder see pp86–7; Road Map see back inside cover
PÄRNU: Kohvik Supelsaksad €€ SAAREMAA ISLAND: Pub

DK Choice International Road Map D2 Vaekoda €
MUHU ISLAND: Alexander Nikolai 32 Estonian Road Map C2
Restaurant €€€ Tel 442 2448 Closed Mon Tallinna 3, Kuressaare
Estonian Road Map C2 The award-winning design at Tel 453 3020
Pädaste this café-restaurant features Housed in a 17th-century
Tel 454 8800 vintage wallpaper and brightly weighing house in the centre
Voted Estonia’s best restaurant upholstered furniture. It serves of the Old Town, Pub Vaedoka
4 years in a row, this exclu sive
exclusive home-made cakes and first-rate is a lively tavern popular with
venue within the luxurious Estonian and international dishes. both locals and tourists. Tasty
Pädaste Manor hotel (see p297) Estonian cuisine is served in
offers an exceptional dining PÄRNU: Kuursaal €€ generous portions.
experience. Locally sourced International Road Map D2
ingredients, including herbs Mere puiestee 22 SAAREMAA ISLAND: Hotel
and vegetables from the Tel 442 0368 Saaremaa Restaurant €€
manor’s grounds, are used to A popular, lively pub in a late Estonian Road Map C2
prepare innovative dishes 19th-century seafront building. Mändjala village,
inspired by traditional Nordic The menu will please most, with Kaarma parish
cuisine. Superb service. satisfying main courses such as Tel 454 4100
local herring with sour cream, Occupying an idyllic wooded
T-bone steak and grilled sausages. location overlooking Mändjala
PALDISKI: Peetri Toll Tavern € beach, this modern restaurant
Russian/Estonian Road Map C1 PÄRNU: Trahter Postipoiss €€ offers a seasonal choice
Mere 10 Russian Road Map D2 ranging from gourmet-style
Tel 5342 3425 Vee 12 Estonian cuisine to health
Paldiski’s oldest pub serves filling Tel 446 4864 food-style minimalism.
Russian, Estonian and international This tavern-style restaurant with a
cuisine using local ingredients. rustic interior gets lively at week- SAAREMAA ISLAND: La Perla €€
Delicious desserts include blini ends. Staff in folk costume serve Italian Road Map C2
(pancakes) and fruit pies. blini (pancakes), Siberian pelmeni Lossi 3, Kuressaare
(dumplings), ox fillet and baked Tel 453 6910
PALDISKI: Wicca Restaurant at salmon, plus other Russian dishes. At this acclaimed restaurant
Laulasmaa Resort €€ in the centre of Kuressaare
Estonian Road Map C1 PÄRNU: Villa Ammende €€€ the menu offers a broad
Puhkekodu 4, Laulasmaa Mediterranean Road Map D2 choice of well-prepared pasta
Tel 687 0870 Mere puiestee 7 dishes that incorporate local
This relaxed, award-winning Tel 447 3888 ingredients such as bream,
restaurant with splendid sea Exquisite Mediterranean and salmon and shrimp.
views from its summer terrace French food is served in three
serves wonderful local dishes regal halls in this Art Nouveau SAAREMAA ISLAND: Rose €€
such as quail, marinated elk fillet manor house (see p298) with Estonian Road Map C2
and rhubarb sorbet. immaculate attention to detail. Grand Rose SPA Hotel, Tallinna 15,
There is a lovely summer terrace. Kuressaare
PÄRNU: Ahoy Sushi Bar € Tel 3726667000
Japanese Road Map D2 SAAREMAA ISLAND: Kaali A cosy cellar restaurant, Rose
Kuninga 34 Tavern € is among the best eateries in
Tel 443 8543 Estonian Road Map C2 town. The vaulted brick
As the only sushi bar in Pärnu, Kaali village ceilings and partitioned
Ahoy is a rather exotic spot and Tel 459 1182 rooms create an intimate
sports a white, minimalist interior. Located close to the Kaali meteor setting perfect for sampling the
Polite, efficient service. impact site, this pub-restaurant in beautifully presented local and
an old farm building is the per- international specialities such
PÄRNU: Café XS € fect stop after a day’s sightseeing. as boar sirloin and grilled ribs.
International Road Map D2
Munga 2
Tel 443 1316
With a stylish, modern interior
and a summer terrace, Café XS
offers a choice of meaty salads,
sweet and savoury pancakes and
pasta dishes along with a tempting
selection of home-made cakes.
PÄRNU: Café Grand €€

Kuninga 25
Tel 444 3412
Open since 1927, Café Grand
offers a glimpse into Pärnu’s high
society of days past. Bow-tied
waiting staff serve German and
French-influenced specialities and
there’s afternoon tea from 5pm. Bright blue furniture, part of the award-winning design at Kohvik Supelsaksad, Pärnu
SAAREMAA ISLAND: Georg Ots NARVA: Petchki-Lavotchki €€

Spa Hotel Restaurant €€€ Russian Road Map E1
Estonian Road Map C2 Tallinna maantee 19c, 20303
Tori 2, Kuressaare Tel 357 9333
Tel 455 0000 This pleasant restaurant attached
Set in the Georg Ots Spa Hotel to the Café Geneva nightclub
(see p298), this stylish restaurant serves traditional specialities such
creates wonderfully inventive as blini (pancakes), borsch and
cuisine that strikes a balance pelmeni (dumplings) prepared
between healthy and indulgent by the resident Russian chef.
ingredients. Mains include pork
tenderloin, gently smoked trout ONTIKA COAST: Mio Mare €€
and slow-cooked chicken breast. Estonian Road Map E1
Ranna 12, Toila, 41702
VORMSI ISLAND: Krog € Tel 334 2915
Estonian Road Map C1 The low-key restaurant within the
Hullo village Toila Spa Hotel (see p298) offers
Tel 514 1418 an outstanding menu of
This is a friendly, family-run exquisitely prepared meat and
restaurant in a Swedish-style Traditional table-settings at Italian fish dishes including wild boar in
wooden cottage characteristic trattoria, La Dolce Vita, Tartu red wine sauce and grilled lamb.
of Vormsi Island. Authentic
home-cooked dishes include LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: OTEPÄÄ: Hotel Karupesa €
wild boar stew and freshly Viitna Korts €€ International Road Map E2
caught herring. Larger groups Estonian Road Map D1 Tehvandi 1a
should book ahead. Viitna village, Kadrina parish, 45202 Tel 766 1500
Tel 520 9156 Located in the woods outside
Originally a staging post on Otepää, this resaurant has
the Tallinn-Narva highway, this romantic lighting and a cosy
Eastern Estonia atmospheric log cabin continues interior. The menu caters for
to be a popular resting place both vegetarians and meat-
KUREMÄE: Wironia €€ for travellers. There is plenty of eaters with a mixture of local
Estonian Road Map E1 fish and meat on the menu as and international dishes.
Rakvere 7, Jõhvi, 41531 well as mulgipuder (potato and
Tel 5303 6505 barley porridge). PAIDE: Paide Plaza €
This smart hotel restaurant Estonian Road Map D1
serves well-presented, hearty NARVA: China House € Keskväljak 15, 72711
local favourites such as sweet Chinese Road Map E1 Tel 5698 8777 Closed Sun
and savoury stuffed pancakes. Tallinna maantee 6b, 20304 A somewhat simple, centrally
The adjoining pub stays open Tel 552 4777 located restaurant, Paide Plaza is
until late. This highly regarded restaurant geared towards large groups, but
with a colourful interior has serves decent food. The traditional
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: managed to hire the only menu features pancakes, salads
Kadaka-baar € Chinese chef in the region, and grilled meat and fish.
Estonian Road Map D1 ensuring the food is close to
Viitna village, 45202 authentic. The long menu PÕLTSAMAA: Rivaal Café €
Tel 325 5550 includes many vegetarian options. Estonian Road Map D2
Tucked away in the dense woods, Veski 1, 48106
this welcoming log cabin pub is NARVA: Gulliver € Tel 776 2620
a cosy resting place for hikers Estonian Road Map E1 This riverside café-restaurant
and tourists. Expect large Lavretsovi 7 offers a good choice of dishes.
portions of meaty Estonian fare. Tel 356 0777 There is an open fire in winter and
This rustic pub has a large tree-shaded terrace in summer.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: summer terrace. The typically
Lahemaa Kohvikann €€ meat-based local food is PÕLVA: Aal €
Estonian Road Map D1 prepared to a good standard Estonian Road Map E2
Palmse village, 45405 and includes pork on a spit F Tuglase 2, 63308
Tel 323 4148 Closed Mon, Tue and schnitzel. It tends to get Tel 517 1818
Run by a hospitable couple, this lively at weekends. About as good as it gets for eating
simple, cheerful restaurant near out in Põlva, Aal is a lakeside
the park serves hearty local food NARVA: German Pub €€ café-restaurant with a menu of
with German influences. Estonian Road Map E1 traditional staples. The summer
Pushkini 10, 20308 terrace has picturesque lake views.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 359 1548
Sagadi Manor €€ This popular pub in the centre PÕLVA: Pizza Olive €
International Road Map D1 of town offers hearty food in a Italian Road Map E2
Sagadi village, Vihula parish, 45403 relaxed interior adorned with Ihamaru village, Kõlleste parish, 63503
Tel 676 7888 antique paraphernalia and Tel 5663 0054
On the Sagadi estate (see p113), vintage boxing photographs. At this secluded pizza restaurant
this classy restaurant offers an Pancakes, salted fish, caviar well outside of Põlva hospitable
enjoyable dining experience with and herring are among the staff serve fantastic traditional
mutton, vegan lentil stew and offerings along with some wood-fired pizzas and home-
Sagadi carrot cake on the menu. great German beers. made desserts.
RAKVERE: Katariina Kelder €

Estonian Road Map D1
Pikk 3, 44307
Tel 322 3943
This simple restaurant in the
cellar of a guesthouse is one of
the best places in town for a
satisfying meal. The menu
features imaginatively presented
local cuisine accompanied by a
small selection of wines.
SILLAMÄE: Krunk €€
Estonian Road Map E1
Kesk 23, 40231
Tel 392 9033
Part of the town’s refurbished
Soviet-era hotel (see p299), Krunk
has an oddly appealing aura of Artfully mismatched tiles at Fellin, Viljandi
faded elegance. The well-
presented, meaty fare is the TARTU: Püssirohu Kelder €€ small café-restaurant serving
best food served in town. There International Road Map E2 typical Estonian food relies
is live music at weekends. Lossi 28, 51003 on the passing tourist trade.
Tel 730 3555 Sandwiches and snacks are
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Café Suur Built into a hillside, this popular also available.
Muna € pub-restaurant in an old gun-
International Road Map E2 powder cellar has, at 11 m (36 ft), VILJANDI: Fellin €€
Haanja village the world’s highest pub ceiling. International Road Map D2
Tel 5866 4668 Great beers are served and the Kauba 11, 71011
A peaceful rural café in an idyllic menu is packed with meaty Tel 435 9795
spot with a modern wood- dishes. It gets pretty lively late at The innovative menu at the
panelled interior, Café Suur has night and at weekends. wonderfully cosy Fellin has
a short menu of various egg- a great selection of health-
themed dishes in honour of Suur TARTU: Chez André €€€ conscious dishes made from
Munamägi (Big Egg Hill). There International Road Map E2 locally sourced ingredients.
is a lovely summer terrace. Küütri 3, 51007 Artfully presented options
Tel 744 2085 include crispy quail and charcoal
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Suur This acclaimed restaurant really grilled mature entrecôte.
Munamägi Tower Café € pushes the boundaries with its
International Road Map E2 innovative and artistic combina- VILJANDI: Suur Vend €€
Haanja village tions of exquisite nouvelle cuisine. International Road Map D2
Tel 5822 9895 The intriguing menu includes Turu 4, 71003
This little glass-fronted café at the strawberry and duck pasta, beef Tel 433 3644
top of the Suur Munamägi tower tenderloin steak with Alaska Plenty of meat and fish dishes,
(see p125) sits at the highest point crab, and smoked ice cream. as well as a few vegetarian
in the Baltic States, at 347 m options, are on the menu at this
(1,139 ft) above sea level. Enjoy friendly pub. There is live music
fantastic views of the region DK Choice Wednesday to Saturday evenings.
along with a light refreshment. TARTU: La Dolce Vita €€€
Italian Road Map E2 VÕRU: Mõisa Ait €
TARTU: Vilde € Kompanii 10, 51007 International Road Map E2
International Road Map E2 Tel 740 7545 Jüri 20c, 65608
Vallikraavi 4 Serving an enormous selection Tel 782 5587
Tel 734 4191 Closed Sun of authentic dishes, Old Town Meat-eaters are well catered
Ultra-healthy dishes made restaurant La Dolce Vita has for at this welcoming pub-
from locally produced organic won numerous awards. Pizzas restaurant in a lovely old
ingredients are served at this great are cooked in a traditional building. There’s a good choice
café-restaurant with quirky decor. wood-fired oven, the pasta is of fish, beef, pork and chicken
Meals that are gluten or lactose- home-made and many of the dishes, but far fewer options
free are marked as such on the ingredients are imported from for vegetarians.
menu and there’s an abundance Italy. The delightful interior
of vegetarian options. is reminiscent of an authentic VÕRU: Café Spring €€
trattoria and the service International Road Map E2
TARTU: Yakuza Sushi Bar € is excellent. Petseri 20
Japanese Road Map E2 Tel 782 2777 Closed Sun
Tasku Shopping Centre 4th floor, In a stylishly renovated wooden
Turu 2, 51014 VÄRSKA: Hirvemäe house right beside Lake Tamula,
Tel 741 2732 Puhkekeskus € Café Spring offers a good
Inside a central shopping mall, Estonian Road Map E2 choice of artistically presented
this restaurant serves a well- Silla 6 vegetarian and meat dishes.
presented choice of sushi Tel 797 6105 The pleasant interior has exposed
options along with soups and Part of a holiday complex close brick, a wood-burning stove and
rice and noodle dishes. to Setu Village Museum, this a comfy upstairs lounge.
Where to Eat and Drink in Latvia

Raw Garden € offers freshly baked bread
Rīga Vegetarian Street Finder E2 along with dishes made from
Skolas 12 fresh, locally sourced vegetables
Aragats € Tel 2778 0489 and fruit. Eat in or take away in
Armenian Street Finder F1 Rīga’s only raw food restaurant a funky box.
Miera 15 serves an imaginative selection
Tel 6737 3445 Closed Mon of dishes packed with nutrients. Victory Pub €
The distinctly Soviet-era decor at It has great smoothies, juices International Street Finder C4
this family-run restaurant in a and desserts as well as hot Tirgonu 10
converted apartment is offset by vegetarian meals. Tel 2922 8310
the delicious Caucasian cuisine Popular with locals and tourists,
on offer. The menu features lots this is an English-style pub in a
of lamb, but there are also DK Choice historic Old Town building. The
vegetarian options and fish is Stock Pot € wide-ranging menu includes
often available too. International Street Finder E2 fish and chips, steak, bacon
Gertrudes 6 sandwiches, chicken curry and
Fazenda € Tel 2783 2165 Closed Sun, Mon various omelettes.
International Street Finder E2 This great little family-run
Baznīcas 14 restaurant with a short menu Bellevue €€
Tel 6724 0809 features original combinations International Street Finder A5
Fazenda is a quaint little café of Mediterranean, Indian, Thai Slokas 1
and bakery which serves great and Latvian dishes. Choices vary Tel 6706 9040
fresh bread and pastries along daily and might include Thai red On the eleventh floor of the
with light Latvian and interna- curry with fish, Indian butter Maritim Park Hotel, this smart
tional dishes. Reminiscent of a chicken or “chili con soya”. There fusion-food restaurant has
country cottage, it has been are plenty of meat-free options splendid views of the riverfront
deftly decorated with floral and vegan, vegetarian and and Old Town. In a plush interior,
wallpaper, white-washed brick lactose-free dishes are labelled it offers professional service and
walls, carefully chosen antique as such. Excellent value. artistically presented versions of
furniture and old prints and tiles. international and Latvian cuisine,
often with a Chinese influence.
Himalajas € Sweetday Café €
Nepalese Street Finder F1 International Street Finder C4 Benjamiņš €€
Brīvības 10 Tirgonu 9 International Street Finder E3
Tel 2037 2938 Tel 2653 7235 Kr Barona 12
Despite its rather unappealing A popular café in the city centre Tel 6707 9410
decor, this family-run restaurant adorned with artworks and an Occupying five opulent rooms
is one of the very best places eye-catching display of within a stately 19th-century
in Rīga for authentic Nepalese irresistible cakes and pastries. building, Benjamiņš has retained
and Indian cuisine. Dishes can Sandwiches, snacks, salads and many original features such as
be spiced according to each light meals are also served. stained-glass windows and
diner’s request. parquet floors. Expect superb
Terra € service and fine international
LIDO Alus Sēta € Vegetarian Street Finder E3 cuisine, such as monkfish fillet
Latvian Street Finder C3 Blaumaņa 9 and roast duck.
Tirgoņu 6 Tel 6765 0001
Tel 6722 2431 This stylish vegetarian eatery, Bon Vivant €€
Serving authentic Latvian cuisine with buffet-style self-service, Belgian Street Finder D4
in a farmhouse-style setting, Mārstaļu 8
this is the most central of the Tel 6722 6585
popular LIDO chain of self- A café-restaurant with a dark
service restaurants. Queue up wood interior, Flemish memora-
for chicken or pork shashlik bilia and more than ten Belgian
(grilled meat on a skewer) and beers on tap. Bon Vivant serves
pile your plate high with chips. meat-heavy dishes including
sausages served in half-metre
Pelmeni XL € lengths, Flemish beef stew and
Russian Street Finder D3 several good mussel options.
Kalķu 7
Tel 6707 3956 Čemodāns €€
A cheerful buffet restaurant, Mediterranean Street Finder F3
Pelmeni XL is completely Ģertrūdes 39
devoted to Russian dumplings Tel 2955 4605
(pelmeni). Diners can choose A popular restaurant, Čemodāns
from chicken, beef, pork, serves an attractive selection
vegetarian or seafood varieties. of wonderful dishes from
Portions are large, providing very France, Spain, Portugal and Italy,
good value for the low prices. A as well as Latvia. Classical interior
beer or a shot of vodka make for Patio seating outside self-service styling and top-notch service
the perfect accompaniment. LIDO Alus Sēta, Rīga add to its appeal.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K I N L AT V I A 321
Da Sergio €€
Italian Street Finder F2
Tērbatas 6
Tel 6731 2777
This is one of Rīga’s best Italian
restaurants, with a well-
established reputation for
consistently high standards of
service and cuisine. Pizzas are
cooked in a traditional wood-
fired oven and there’s a great
choice of pasta and seafood.
Demokrātisks Vīna
Bārs Garage €€
Latvian Street Finder E3
Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
Tel 2662 8833
The menu changes daily, Extra-long bar at modern and inventive restaurant Bibliotēka No 1, Rīga
according to which seasonal
ingredients are available, at this Province €€ Bergs €€€
chic restaurant and wine bar in a Latvian Street Finder C4 International Street Finder E3
starkly modern converted Kaļķu 2 Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
garage. Tapas complement the Tel 6722 2566 Tel 6777 0957 Closed Sun
wide selection of wines. An Old Town restaurant with a Part of boutique Hotel Bergs (see
rustic interior and some great p301), this is one of Rīga’s
Domini Canes €€ local cuisine. The tasting menu is classiest restaurants. It offers an
International Street Finder D4 a good starting point; it includes exciting fusion of Latvian and
Skārņu 18/20 beef fillet tart, black peas with European cuisine created by top
Tel 2231 4122 bacon and herring tart. Latvian chef Kaspars Jansons.
This intimate restaurant has just
ten tables and is located right Tēvocis Vaņa €€ Bibliotēka No 1 €€€
at the heart of the Old Town Russian Street Finder C3 Latvian Street Finder D3
opposite St Peter’s Church. Smilšu 16 Tērbatas 2
Delicious international dishes Tel 2788 6963 Tel 2022 5000
with Latvian influences are “Uncle Vanya” is an upmarket Boasting a summer terrace over-
prepared with locally sourced Russian restaurant with an looking a leafy park, Bibliotēka
ingredients. Book ahead. elegant interior featuring vintage No 1 serves a high standard of
wallpaper, ceramic knick-knacks, innovative cuisine. Smoked
Gan Bei €€ antique books and comfortable Latgale eel and chicken-liver ice
Asian Street Finder D2 chairs. It serves a menu of Slavic cream are among the offerings.
Dzirnavu 67 classics including a highly-rated
Tel 6728 8420 beef stroganoff. Le Dome €€€
Located at the top floor of Latvian Street Finder C3
the popular Galleria Rīga mall, Uzbekistāna €€ Miesnieku 4
this restaurant serves a range Uzbek Street Finder C4 Tel 6755 9884
of dishes from Asian cuisine Bruņinieku iela 33 This award-winning fish
such as sushi to dishes from Tel 6729 2270 restaurant on a quiet street is
Chinese, Indian and Thai cuisines. This is reputed to be the city’s part of the Dome Hotel and Spa
Wonderful rooftop terrace. first and finest restaurant to be (see p300). It specializes in freshly
serving Uzbek and Central Asian caught Baltic fish, but also serves
International SV €€ food. Favourites include dump- beef, pork and chicken dishes.
International Street Finder F1 lings, shashlik (kebabs) and freshly
Hospitāļu 1 baked bread. Traditional as well as Melnie Mūki €€€
Tel 6749 1212 authentic food and friendly staff. International Street Finder D4
At this top restaurant with a Jāņa Sēta 1
sleek, modern interior, diners can Tel 6721 5006
choose several mini-portions DK Choice The well-established Melnie
of exquisitely presented main 3 Pavaru €€€ Mūki, or Black Monks, occupies
dishes. Options include beef International Street Finder C3 the cellar of an old monastery
Wellington, ostrich fillet, potato Torņa 4/2b and serves an eclectic menu of
gnocchi and cheese fondue. Tel 2037 0537 Latvian and international cuisine.
Outstanding service. Run by three of Latvia’s most
promising chefs, 3 Pavaru is one Neiburgs €€€
Ķiploku Krogs €€ of Rīga’s most exciting dining Latvian Street Finder C4
International Street Finder C3 experiences. Diners can watch Jauniela 25/27
Jēkaba 3/5 the seasonal Latvian dishes Tel 6711 5544
Tel 6721 1451 being prepared with modern Part of the Neiburgs Hotel (see
In keeping with its name, cooking techniques in the open p301), this charming restaurant
which means “garlic bar,” this kitchen, with chefs wielding is among the best in Rīga. It has
quirky little restaurant puts blowtorches and pouring a bright, classy, modern interior
garlic in just about everything, vapourizing liquid nitrogen. and beautifully presented Latvian
including the ice cream. and international dishes.
Ostas Skati €€€ JŪRMALA: Café 53 €

International Street Finder A1 Latvian Road Map C3
Matrožu 15, Ķīpsala Jomas 53, LV-2015
Tel 2669 3693 Tel 6781 1771
This sophisticated glass-fronted With a laid-back vibe, this great
riverside restaurant, serving a centrally located restaurant
variety of classy fish and meat serves a reasonably priced choice
dishes, has lovely river views and of specialities such as mutton
a great summer terrace. Best with beans, barley porridge and
reached by car or taxi. jellied pike. There are delicious
pizzas and desserts too.
Rozengrāls €€€
Latvian Street Finder C3 JŪRMALA: International €€
Rozena 1 International Road Map C3
Tel 6722 0356 Vienibas prospekts 6, LV-2010
Occupying an enormously Tel 6776 7735
atmospheric 13th-century cellar, This chic centrally located
this medieval-themed restaurant restaurant with a stylish modern
features waiting staff in full interior and an excellent
costume and local dishes international menu offers a
prepared from historical recipes. broad range of fish and meat
Smoked deer, rabbit stew and dishes. Options include ostrich Elegant dining room with large windows
oven-baked pumpkin are among fillet, beef Wellington, catfish at Metropole, Kuldīga
the offerings. fillet and Burgundy snails.
KULDĪGA: Metropole €€
Vincents €€€ JŪRMALA: Villa Joma €€ Latvian Road Map B3
International Street Finder C2 Mediterranean Road Map C3 Baznīcas 11, LV-3301
Elizabetes 19 Jomas 90, LV-2015 Tel 6335 0588
Tel 6733 2830 Closed Sun Tel 6777 1999 Despite its faded elegance, this
Run by celebrity chef Mārtiņš The bright, airy restaurant in the hotel restaurant (see p301) is the
Rītiņš, Vincents is just as fresh Villa Joma hotel (see p301) has a most upmarket dining option in
and innovative as it was when cosy open fire in winter and a town. International and Latvian
it first opened in 1993. It serves pleasant summer terrace. It dishes are prepared with fish and
adventurous dishes with serves well-prepared game sourced from local farms.
spectacular presentation, often Mediterranean cuisine with
aided by liquid nitrogen. some Latvian specialities. LAKE ENGURE: Cope Café €
Impeccable service. Latvian Road Map C3
JŪRMALA: MaMa €€€ Rideļu Dzirnavas, Engure parish,
Mediterranean Road Map C3 LV-3113
Tirgoņu 22, Majori, LV-2015 Tel 2653 6532
Western Latvia Tel 6776 1271 A cosy café serving wholesome
Voted the best hotel restaurant snacks and light meals prepared
DUNDAGA: Jūras Sapņi € in Latvia for 4 years running, with local ingredients. The home-
Latvian Road Map C3 this stunning venue with its made bread and pancakes use
Vīdales ielā 2, LV-3270 eclectic boutique interior flour from the neighbouring
Tel 2946 2622 Closed out of season makes for a hugely enjoyable Rideji Watermill, while mushroom
Of the few dining options dining experience. It has a and berry fillings are collected
available in Dundaga, Jūras Sapņi Mediterranean menu with from the surrounding forests.
is perhaps the best. Cheerful Latvian influences.
nautical decor features palm LIEPĀJA: Boulangerie €
trees and boat-related parapher- KOLKA: Zitari € International Road Map B4
nalia. Standard fare such as pork, Latvian Road Map C3 Kuršu 2, LV-3401
chicken and potatoes is on offer. Rutas iela, LV-3275 Tel 2713 4686
Open only in summer. Tel 2001 9608 Closed out of season Serving rustic home-made bread
One of the few eateries in tiny and cakes, light snacks and
Kolka, Zitari also functions as a sandwiches, this enormously
DK Choice guesthouse. The hosts are popular café-bakery in the town
JELGAVA: La Tour de Marie €€ wonderfully hospitable and serve centre has downstairs seating as
French/Latvian Road Map C4 large portions of hearty fare that well as a pleasant roof terrace
Akadēmijas 1, LV-3001 includes delicious locally smoked with great views. Excellent value.
Tel 6308 1392 Closed Mon fish. Open only during the
Jelgava’s finest restaurant is summer holiday season. LIEPĀJA: Bel Cibo €€
located on the seventh floor of Italian Road Map B4
the Holy Trinity Church Tower. KULDĪGA: Stenders Pica € Graudu 21, LV-3401
It’s a remarkably atmospheric Latvian Road Map B3 Tel 2783 0274 Closed Mon–Wed
location, with bare brick walls Suru 2, LV-3301 An enthusiastic team ensures
and windows in the four clock Tel 6332 3763 that customers have the best
faces, plus views of the city that As well as pizzas, this restaurant possible dining experience at
are better than those from any in the centre of Kuldīga serves a this tiny, but highly regarded
other restaurant in Latvia. It good selection of Latvian cuisine. Italian restaurant. Authentic
serves superb French and Various meaty mains and tasty cuisine is prepared and
Latvian cuisine. sweet and savoury pancakes are presented to an exceptionally
among the possibilities. high standard.
LIEPĀJA: Olive €€ RUNDĀLE: Baltā Māja € TALSI: Martinelli €

Fusion Road Map B4 Latvian Road Map D4 Latvian Road Map C3
Klaipēdas 104c, LV-3416 Pils Rundāle, LV-3921 Lielā 7, LV-3200
Tel 2666 0935 Tel 6396 2140 Tel 6329 1340
On the second floor of the Baata In a 250-year-old house that A cosy, farmhouse-style
shopping centre, Olive serves a also offers bed and breakfast restaurant, the menu at Martinelli
range of pasta and Latvian–Asian (see p302), this café-restaurant encompasses traditional fare
fusion dishes such as Japanese serves delicious home-cooked and includes some family recipes.
dumplings and Tokyo salmon. fare, served in an endearing, The dining room has a fireplace,
farmhouse-style dining room. hefty wooden beams and a
LIEPĀJA: Pastnieka Māja €€ The desserts and freshly baked summer terrace overlooking
Latvian Road Map B4 black bread are particularly a peaceful garden. The owners
Fr Brīvzemnieka 53, LV-3401 good. Open only by reservation also run a guesthouse here
Tel 2949 6233 out of season. (see p302) and have a small winery
Occupying a former post office next door.
with a modernized interior, RUNDĀLE: Rundāles Pils €€
Pastnieka Māja is considered Latvian Road Map D4 TUKUMS: Karē €
the town’s best restaurant. Rundāle, LV-3921 Latvian Road Map C3
Specialities include soft rabbit Tel 6396 2274 Pasta 25, LV-3101
roll and stuffed bull’s testicles. Conveniently located for visiting Tel 6312 2555
Rundāle Palace, this elegant The menu at this restaurant in
MEŽOTNE: Mežotnes Pils €€ restaurant occupies the Duke of central Tukums features a well-
Latvian Road Map D4 Courland’s former kitchens. It prepared selection of typical
Mežotnes pagasts, Bauskas novads, serves superb and exquisitely chicken, pork, beef and fish
LV-3918 presented Latvian cuisine with dishes. The dining room is simple
Tel 6396 0711 plenty of choices for meat-eaters but comfortable. Friendly service.
The Mežotnes Pils hotel’s but few options for vegetarians.
(see p302) dining room has TUKUMS: Liepaleja €€
spectacular views of the palace SABILE: Dare € Latvian Road Map C3
grounds and serves traditional Latvian Road Map C3 Tumes parish, Tukuma district,
specialities. Impeccable service. Pedvāle, LV-3294 LV-3139
Advance booking recommended. Tel 6325 2273 Tel 2618 7442 Closed Sun
Right by the entrance to Pedvāle Housed within the impressive
NĪCA: Nīcava € Open-Air Museum (see p182), Jaunmoku Pils (see p175), a
Latvian Road Map B4 Dare serves a selection of manor house set in acres of
Nīcas novads, Nīcas pagasts, LV-3473 traditional staples in a relaxed parkland, Liepaleja offers a
Tel 2921 4661 atmosphere. The outdoor terrace relaxed dining experience in
The elegant restaurant in the is a popular in summer. elegant surroundings. The
Nīcava hotel (see p302) has an menu has a good choice of
attractive summer terrace. SABILE: Zviedru Cepure € salads, as well as meat and
Smartly dressed waiting staff Latvian Road Map C3 fish dishes.
serve typically meaty cuisine. Piltiņi Matkule parish, LV-3132
Tel 2640 5405 VENTSPILS: Jūras Brīze €
PĀVILOSTA: Vēju Paradīze € Zviedru Cepure is a popular Latvian Road Map B3
Latvian Road Map B4 recreation centre 3.5 km (2 miles) Vasarnicu 34, LV-3601
Smilšu 14, LV-3466 from Sabile that offers children’s Tel 6362 2524
Tel 2644 6644 activities, skiing, horse-riding This restaurant, with friendly
This bright café-restaurant with and a lengthy toboggan run. Its and cheerful ambience, offers
floor-to-ceiling windows is in rustic log cabin café-restaurant generous servings of delicious
a hotel that’s popular with serves wholesome traditional Latvian-style dishes from kotletes
windsurfers. It serves light dishes. The restaurant is open (home-made meatballs) to herring
meals and sandwiches. throughout summer, and in with cottage cheese. It is popular
winter if there is snow. with locals and great for families.
ROJA: Dzintarkrasts €
Latvian Road Map C3
Žocene village, Rojas parish, LV-3264
Tel 2860 0600
Part of a holiday complex, this
sophisticated restaurant serves
specialities from the local
Kurzeme region such as sorrel
and bacon soup.
ROJA: Otra Puse €

Latvian Road Map C3
Jūras iela 6, LV-3264
Tel 2947 7602
Part of the Otra Puse recreation
complex, this pretty stone
building is a good spot to try
some local cuisine, such as the
fish that’s smoked nearby. There is
live music on Saturday evenings. Rustic outdoor seating at Pastnieka Māja, a former post office in Liepāja

VENTSPILS: Skroderkrogs € DAUGAVPILS: Villa Ksenija €€€ GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:

Latvian Road Map B3 International Road Map E4 Vilhelmīnes Dzirnavas €
Skroderu 6, LV-3601 Varšavas 17, LV-5400 Latvian Road Map D3
Tel 6362 7634 Tel 6543 4317 Spriņģu 1, Līgatne, LV-4110
Considered by many to be This elegant, classically styled Tel 2755 1311
the best restaurant in Ventspils, restaurant is in the imposing This bustling pub in a tiny village
this cosy spot with quirky tables four-star Villa Ksenija guesthouse serves wholesome cuisine in
made from antique sewing (see p302). The menu has an rustic surroundings. Dishes
machines is a lovely venue emphasis on fish dishes, include home-made meatballs,
in which to eat. It serves well- which are artfully presented. grilled trout and grilled banana.
presented Latvian and There is a lovely garden with
international dishes. shaded outdoor seating. GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Alexis €€
VENTSPILS: Ostas 23 €€ GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Allas Latvian Road Map D3
Latvian Road Map B3 un Vinetas Kārumlāde € Vienibas laukums 1, Cēsis LV-4101
Jana 17, LV-3601 International Road Map D3 Tel 6412 0122
Tel 6362 2396 Rīgas 12, Cēsis, LV-4101 In the grand Kolonna Hotel, Alexis
The “Port 23” is a wonderfully Tel 2939 2810 offers splendid views of the sur-
atmospheric pub-restaurant A bright and cheerful café rounding park. Traditional Latvian
with candles and worn wooden where the friendly owners, Alla cuisine, as well as other European
tables, located in the cellar and Vineta, serve delicious fare, is served by attentive staff.
of the city’s Livonian Order home-made cakes and great
castle. Staff donning suitably coffee. They also prepare fresh GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
traditional garb serve medieval- and nicely presented salads, Aparjods €€
style dishes such as black soups and sandwiches. Latvian Road Map D3
pudding (blood sausage). Ventas 1a, Sigulda, LV-2150
GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 6797 4414
Cili Pica € Part of a complex of thatched
Italian Road Map D3 holiday cottages, Aparjods is
Eastern Latvia Strēlnieku 2, Sigulda, LV-2150 decorated with antiques. It
Tel 6797 3955 serves excellent Latvian and
AGLONA: Upenīte € Part of a successful pizza chain international cuisine.
Latvian Road Map E4 with outlets all over the country,
Tartakas 7, LV-5304 this centrally located pizzeria GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Tel 2631 2465 has a colourful modern interior. Kungu Rija €€
As a member of the European There is a reliable selection Latvian Road Map D3
Network of Culinary Heritage, the of pizzas, pasta dishes, salads Turaida, LV-2147
medieval-style dining room of and pancakes, and the service Tel 6797 1473
the lakeside Upenīte Guesthouse is fast and efficient. Plenty of hearty Latvian dishes
is one of the more interesting such as roast piglet, trout and leg
dining options around Aglona. GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: of lamb are served at this log
Curd pancakes made using a Mr. Biskvīts € cabin restaurant with a large
traditional Latgalian recipe are International Road Map D3 fireplace and a pleasant garden
one of the specialities. Ausekļa 9, Sigulda, LV-2150 and pond.
Tel 6797 6611
DAUGAVPILS: Gubernators €€ This great little self-service café, GULBENE: Lācītes €
Latvian/Russian Road Map E4 with a rugged interior hung with Latvian Road Map E3
Lāčplēša 10, LV-5401 cow bells, is renowned for its Ranka parish, LV-4416
Tel 6542 2455 superb cakes and has a good Tel 2659 9997
Decorated with an unusual selection of light lunches and Better than the average roadside
assortment of Soviet-era evening meals. It gets crowded eatery, this thatched log cabin
paraphernalia, this quirky at times, but there is extra space has a very good selection of
pub-restaurant with a lively outdoors in the summer. traditional cuisine.
atmosphere serves an extensive
range of Russian-influenced IKŠĶILE: Meidrops €€
Latvian cuisine. There is a good Latvian Road Map D3
selection of draft beers, many Rīgas 18, LV-5052
of them local. Tel 6503 0466
On the Daugava river, this tran-
DAUGAVPILS: Plaza €€ quil thatched-roof restaurant is
Mediterranean Road Map E4 part of the Spadrops Hotel (see
Gimnazijas 46, LV-5401 p303) and serves regional cuisine
Tel 6540 4900 made with local ingredients.
Situated on the tenth floor
of the Latgola Hotel in central JĒKABPILS: Uguntiņa €
Daugavpils, Plaza has a wall Latvian Road Map D4
of floor-to-ceiling windows, Pasta 23b
which provides fantastic views Tel 6523 1907
of the city. It serves skilfully Overlooking the Old Town square,
presented Mediterranean this simple eatery is a local
cuisine and some Latvian favourite. It offers a wide variety of
and regional specialities. Wholesome food at Līgatne’s busy pub, local dishes as well as some more
Attentive service. Vilhelmīnes Dzirnavas, Gauja National Park unusual options such as sushi.
JĒKABPILS: Luiize €€
Brīvības 190
Tel 2770 5777
A stylish restaurant in an old
building with a hotel and
nightclub attached, Luiize has
a menu that typically consists
of plenty of meat dishes. It
has expanded the choice even
further by adding more unusual
options such as crocodile,
kangaroo and quail.
KRĀSLAVA: Mārīte €
Latvian Road Map E4
Tīrgus 2, LV-5601 Bīriņu manor house with crenellated towers, containing a restaurant in its cellar, Limbaži
Tel 6562 4039
This popular central café with RĒZEKNE: Latgale €€ VALMIERA: Cili Pica €
bright scarlet decor and cheerful Latvian Road Map E4 Italian Road Map D3
service is the best eatery in Atbrīvošanas aleja 98, LV-4601 Georga Apiņa 10a, LV-4201
Krāslava. It offers a straight- Tel 2616 4444 Tel 6422 8558
forward menu of Latvian The Latgale Hotel’s ground-floor Part of a national chain, this
standard dishes. There is live restaurant has a rather dated and brightly decorated pizzeria offers
music at weekends. formal interior, but is a pleasant quick service and delicious pizzas.
place to eat nonetheless as Pasta dishes, soups, salads and
LIELVĀRDE: Baltu Ozols €€ the traditional cuisine is well- desserts are also on the menu.
International Road Map D4 prepared and the service is good.
Lāčplēša 35, LV-5070 VALMIERA: Rātes Vārti €
Tel 6505 5017 RĒZEKNE: Rozalija €€ International Road Map D3
Creatively presented dishes, International Road Map E4 Lāčplėša 1, LV-4201
attentive service and a Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6428 1942
reasonable wine list can all be Tel 6460 7840 A quaint little restaurant near
found at this idyllically situated A stylish dining option in the St Simon’s church with stripped
riverside restaurant, located Kolonna Hotel (see p303), Rozalija wood floors, white tablecloths
inside a small hotel. serves a good choice of meaty and comfortable seating. The
regional dishes alongside wide selection of Latvian and
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ international favourites. It has a international dishes includes
Latvian Road Map D3 terrace overlooking the river. several couscous options.
Bīriņi, LV-4013
Tel 6402 4033 SALACGRĪVA: Rakari €
A selection of imaginative dishes, Latvian Road Map D3 DK Choice
based on traditional Latvian Rakari, Svētciems, LV-4033 VALMIERA: Dikļu Pils €€
cuisine, are served at this Tel 2666 4447 Latvian Road Map D3
atmospheric restaurant in the A smart pub-restaurant just off Dikļi parish, LV-4223
brick-lined, vaulted cellar of the Via Baltica (Rīga–Tallinn) Tel 6420 7480
Bīriņu manor house (see p303). motorway that’s part of a well- Housed within the impeccably
Options include beaver broth, equipped recreation complex restored Dikli Palace Hotel (see
organic lamb with baked apple, with a children’s play area. The p303), this restaurant has a
and pickled beaver. menu has the usual choice of formal yet relaxed dining
well-prepared traditional cuisine. atmosphere. The menu features
PREIĻI: Levaž € exquisitely presented Latvian
Latvian Road Map E4 SALACGRĪVA: Zvejnieku Sēta € specialities made with locally
Kooperatīvā 1c, LV-5301 Latvian Road Map D3 sourced ingredients. Tempting
Tel 2643 2050 Closed Sun Rīgas 1, LV-4033 options include smoked pike
The menu has a simple choice Tel 2632 3846 perch soup, roast rabbit with
of local dishes at this small, This well-established, central fish apple sauce, and baked
modest café in the centre of restaurant, decked out with all pumpkin with marzipan for
town. It is known as “the green- sorts of fishing paraphernalia, dessert. Excellent service.
house” for its marvellous tropical- serves a broad choice of cuisine
style interior, glass walls and made with fresh fish and locally
winter garden. sourced ingredients. VECPIEBALGA: Jumurdas
Muiža €€
RĒZEKNE: Guru €€ STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €€ International Road Map D3
Italian Road Map E4 International Road Map E3 Ērgļu district, LV-4844
Atbrīvošanas aleja 100, LV-4601 Skolas 1, LV-4406 Tel 6487 1791
Tel 2835 3538 Tel 2922 5805 Part of a hotel complex of
A sophisticated restaurant which A lovely lakeside restaurant within converted manor buildings 19 km
offers good food and views of the Vonadziņi hotel complex of (12 miles) south of Vecpiebalga,
the city centre by day, and attracts thatched log buildings (see p303). this secluded lakeside restaurant
a combination of hipsters, A good choice of dishes is served has a lovely summer terrace. A
cocktail quaffers and disco on the summer terrace or, in the sophisticated blend of Latvian
lovers by night. winter months, by a blazing fire. and European cuisine is served.
Where to Eat and Drink in Lithuania

Prie Katedros € Vegafe €
Vilnius International Street Finder D3 Vegetarian Street Finder D4
Gedimino prospektas 5 Augustijonų 2
Beigelistai € Tel 6057 7555 Tel 6597 7072 Closed Sun
International Street Finder D5 This well-established micro- A great place to cleanse your
Pylimo 58 brewery is replete with gleaming system when you’ve had enough
Tel 6821 0971 vats, piping and ducts. The tasty of meat-heavy Lithuanian cuisine,
This welcoming café specializes honey beer is a local favourite, as Vegafe is a wonderful vegetarian
in freshly baked bagels – filled are the boar sausages and plums and vegan restaurant with a yoga
with anything from salmon and wrapped in bacon. centre upstairs. Diners can choose
cream cheese to Nutella with to sit on chairs or floor cushions.
strawberries. The most RawRaw €
interesting of the several Vegetarian Street Finder D3 Burė No 1 €€
locations is the one at the Totorių gatvė 3 International Street Finder D1
bustling Halės farmers’ market. Tel 6995 2022 Lvovo 25
As the name suggests, just Tel 6717 8676 Closed Sat, Sun
Briusly € about every dish at this stylish Ambitiously promising 365
Asian Street Finder C3 restaurant is served uncooked. different dishes a year upon
Islandijos 4 Vitamin-packed smoothies and opening, the owners of Burė No 1
Tel 6914 1205 juices are on offer, and the have done a great job of creating
Named after legendary Kung Fu healthy, filling dishes include an evolving menu of innovative
fighter Bruce Lee, this informal and turnip ravioli stuffed with nuts. cuisine using locally sourced
reasonably priced restaurant serves The open-plan kitchen lets diners organic ingredients.
“food with attitude” – a tasty watch the action.
selection of oriental dishes – and Didžioji Kinija €€
attracts a young, trendy crowd. Užupio Klasika € Chinese Street Finder C1
Lithuanian Street Finder E4 Konstitucijos 12
Cozy € Užupio 28 Tel 6864 0560
International Street Finder D4 Tel (5) 215 3677 Vilnius has a large number of
Dominikonų 10 This tiny, romantic restaurant- Chinese restaurants, but this
Tel (5) 261 1137 café is the perfect spot for an mainstay is one of the best. Browse
Contemporary jazz complements intimate rendezvous. The food is a catalogue-sized menu before
the subtly lit interior and a DJ delicious, although service can selecting such delicious dishes as
plays most nights until late at this be slow. Expect to be serenaded king prawns on a hot plate or the
hip café-restaurant in the Old by a musician. fantastically presented carp in the
Town. The menu has a good form of a chrysanthemum.
choice of pasta, soups, meaty Vandens Malūnas €
mains and desserts. Lithuanian
Verkių 100 DK Choice
Forto Dvaras € Tel (5) 271 1666 Ertlio Namas €€
Lithuanian Street Finder D3 Occupying a restored 19th- Lithuanian Street Finder D4
Pilies gatvė 16 century watermill in a lush valley Šv. Jono 7
Tel 6561 3688 just below Verkiai Palace (see Tel 6697 5515
Part of a popular chain of folksy p249), this delightful restaurant Located in a historic building,
Lithuanian restaurants, Forto serves simple fare. The stone- this elegant Old Town
Dvaras is a reliable option for walled interior has a roaring fire restaurant combines age-old
hearty local fare. Dishes include in winter and there is a shaded recipes with contemporary
potato pancakes with various terrace in summer. cooking styles. The chefs
fillings and a choice of meat dishes. use the best produce sourced
from the local farms to
Pilies Kepyklėlė € create wonderful dishes such
International Street Finder C3 as quail with blackberry sauce,
Pilies gatvė 19 wild hare and bean stew
Tel (5) 260 8992 with asparagus, among others.
A popular meeting place, Pilies Booking ahead is advisable.
Kepyklėlė offers a fantastic
selection of freshly made cakes
and pastries, as well as more Holy Miko’s €€
substantial savoury crêpes. International Street Finder D3
Šv Mykolo 4
Pinavija € Tel 6882 2210
International Street Finder C3 A cosy, family-run restaurant
Vilniaus 21 with friendly service and
Tel 6764 4422 beautifully presented food.
Renowned for its cakes and Dishes are a modern take on
pastries and for its freshly baked Lithuanian and international
kibinai (see p311) in particular, this cuisine and include potato
laid-back, cosy café and bakery pancakes, dumplings with
serves great breakfasts. It has Cellar dining area of popular traditional cottage cheese, and strawberry
some outdoor seating. restaurant Forto Dvaras in Vilnius and rhubarb gazpacho.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K I N L I T H UA N I A 327
Miyako €€
Japanese Street Finder C1
Konstitucijos 7a
Tel 6185 2112
This superb restaurant and sushi
bar is located on the top floor of
the Europa shopping centre. The
high-quality sushi is prepared by
expert chefs in full view of diners.
Rib Room €€
International Street Finder D1
Šeimyniškių 1
Tel (5) 210 3012
The Holiday Inn’s restaurant is
the place to indulge in all things
meaty, from thick rib soup to
spicy spare ribs and grilled veal
ribs. There’s also a good choice Mexican restaurant Sofa de Pancho’s homely interior, Vilnius
of fish dishes.
with heat warnings where Medininkai €€€
Saint Germain €€ necessary and the service from International Street Finder D4
French Street Finder D4 the energetic waiting staff is Aušros Vartų gatvė 8
Literatų 9 very professional. Tel 6008 6491
Tel (5) 262 1210 This well-respected Old Town
Hugely popular with both ex-pats Böff Steakhouse €€€ establishment sports crisp white
and locals, this shabby-chic French International Street Finder D2 linens in the 16th-century
restaurant is among the best in Olimpiečių 1 courtyard dining areas. The
the city. The food is impressive Tel (5) 219 9498 Closed Sun service is impeccable, and the
and reasonably priced, and there Upon opening, this steakhouse award-winning chef ensures
is an excellent choice of wines. quickly established itself as one that the standard of cuisine is
of the city’s best restaurants. consistently high.
Senoji Trobelė €€ The steaks, which are from
Lithuanian Street Finder B4 all over the world, are cooked Narutis €€€
Naugarduko 36 to perfection. International Street Finder D3
Tel 6099 9002 Pilies gatvė 24
The menu at this rustic-style Brasserie de Verres en Vers €€€ Tel (5) 212 2894
restaurant offers an extensive French Street Finder D4 Serving an exceptionally high
choice of meaty national staples Didžioji gatvė 35/2 standard of both international
served on pretty traditional Tel (5) 236 0840 cuisine and traditional Lithuanian
crockery. If you are taken by it, This high-end restaurant in the dishes, Narutis offers quality
you can purchase the dining Radisson Blu Astorija luxury dining in the elegant environ-
ware as a souvenir. There is a Old Town hotel (see p305) has a ment of the Narutis Hotel (see
shaded outdoor terrace. small but carefully selected p305), with thick carpets and
menu of dishes. House plush furniture. The service is
Sky Bar €€ specialities include mussels of course excellent.
International Street Finder C1 steamed in white wine, roasted
Konstitucijos 20 duck breast and seafood stew. La Pergola €€€
Tel (5) 231 4823 International Street Finder D4
The views from this 22nd-floor Da Antonio €€€ Ligoninės 7
bar atop the Radisson Blu Hotel Italian Street Finder C3 Tel (5) 266 0322 Closed Sun
are the best in Vilnius. Guests can Vilnius 23 Part of the splendid Grotthuss
enjoy light meals accompanied Tel (5) 262 0109 Boutique hotel, La Pergola offers
by first-class cocktails. A grand entrance of columns a high-end dining experience
and a portico welcomes diners with first-class service and a
Sofa de Pancho €€ to this well-established Italian menu of flawlessly prepared
Mexican Street Finder D4 restaurant. Pizzas are cooked in a dishes. Enticing options include
Visų Šventųjų 5 wood-fired oven and the pasta is halibut fillet in crispy pastry,
Tel 6738 9002 Closed Sun, Mon prepared fresh on site. and roasted scallops with
Enthusiastic staff prepare top- cream sauce.
notch tacos, tortillas and chili con Imperial €€€
carne, as well as great cocktails, at International Street Finder D4 La Provence €€€
this brilliant little restaurant with Subačiaus gatvė 2 Mediterranean Street Finder D4
a smart yet eclectic interior. Tel (5) 238 8388 Vokiečių 22
Influenced by American gourmet Tel (5) 262 0257 Closed Sun
Sue’s Indian Raja €€ cuisine, the menu at this This exclusive restaurant attracts
Indian Street Finder D3 restaurant in the Ramada Hotel a constant flow of VIPs, diplomats
Odminių 3 (see p305) features fresh North and celebrities. The interior is
Tel (5) 266 1888 Atlantic lobster, grilled veal and theatrical and even a little bit
Sue’s is a reliable Old Town suckling pig. The opulent interior quirky, while the menu is wide-
restaurant serving the city’s has gleaming chandeliers, a ranging and expensive, featuring
most authentic Indian cuisine. marble fireplace, and wood- a skilful fusion of Mediterranean
Delectable dishes are labelled panelled walls and ceilings. and Lithuanian cuisine.
Stikliai €€€ and has a lovely summer terrace

French Street Finder D4 with views of the nearby lake. It
Gaono gatvė 7 serves delicious national and
Tel (5) 264 9580 Closed Sun, Mon regional dishes made with
Part of the luxurious hotel of the locally sourced ingredients.
same name, Stikliai offers a
sophisticated French-influenced BIRŠTONAS: Birštono
gourmet experience in an Seklytėlė €
elegant glass-roofed dining Lithuanian Road Map D6
room. Margaret Thatcher, Ronald Prienų 10
Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev Tel (319) 65 800
have dined here in the past. Perched high above the
Nemunas river, Birštono
Telegrafas €€€ Seklytėlė’s main attraction is the
International Street Finder D3 stunning views from its terrace.
Universiteto gatvė 14 Tables along its rim are the most
Tel (5) 220 1600 popular, but the window-side
With its high-class cuisine and seats in the dining room also
splendid views over Cathedral provide great views. Good
Square from within the Kempinski national fare is served. Minimalist, modern decor at Uoksas, one
Hotel (see p305), Telegrafas is hard of Kaunas’s top restaurants
to beat. The international and BIRŠTONAS: Sonata €
Lithuanian menu includes a Lithuanian Road Map D6 DRUSKININKAI: Sicilia €
superb signature dish of cepelinai Algirdo 34 Italian Road Map D6
(potato dumplings). Tel (319) 65 825 Taikos 9
This secluded restaurant within Tel (313) 51 865
the Sonata Hotel on the banks of An enormously popular pizzeria
the Nemunas river has lush forest in central Druskininkai, Sicilia
Central Lithuania views from its stylish redbrick boasts consistently high
interior. A broad selection of standards of service and
ALYTUS: Dzūkų Svetainė € regional and international cuisine. The wide-ranging
Lithuanian Road Map D6 cuisine is on offer. menu includes pizza, sweet
Rotušės aikštė 16 and savoury pancakes, potato
Tel (315) 73 780 BIRŽAI: 19-tas Kilometras € pie, and various chicken, pork
In a town with few decent dining Lithuanian Road Map D4 and beef dishes.
options, Dzūkų Svetainė stands Raubonių village, Pasvalio region
out as a reliable venue for well- Tel (451) 39 676 DRUSKININKAI: Keturi Vėjai €€
prepared Lithuanian food Located just off the Via Baltica International Road Map D6
along with pizza and other motorway to Rīga, this canteen- V Kudirkos gatvė 45
international dishes. style eatery serving cutlets, Tel 6180 0966
pancakes and salads is a good The Grand Spa Lietuva Hotel
ANYKŠČIAI: Nykščio Namai € place to break the journey (see p305) has two excellent
International Road Map D5 between capital cities. It also has restaurants – the elegant ground-
Liudiškių 18 its own zoo. A convenient pit floor Druskininkai and the smart
Tel 6503 1881 stop rather than a dining eighth-floor Keturi Vėjai, which
This smart restaurant is located destination in its own right. boasts panoramic views of the
in a recreation complex off the town and serves beautifully
Molėtai road to the southeast of BIRŽAI: Sucré € presented regional and
Anykščiai. It serves a good Lithuanian Road Map D4 international cuisine.
selection of well-presented Vytauto 36
international dishes, accompanied Tel 6652 1207 Closed Sat dinner, Sun KAUNAS: Žalias Ratas €
by local wines and brandies. This delightful café and bakery Lithuanian Road Map D5
serves great coffee and a Laisvės 36b
ANYKŠČIAI: Romuvos Parkas € delicious range of traditional Tel 6747 3815
International Road Map D5 Lithuanian breads and pastries, Providing great value and
Žaliosios village, 20km (12 miles) east along with sandwiches, pizza friendly service, this delightfully
of Anykščiai slices and other light snacks. It’s rustic restaurant, with a central
Tel 6867 7858 a good spot to try šakotis, a open fireplace and shaded
The intimate restaurant in the distinctive local cake made by summer terrace, is a great place
Romuva Park Hotel and leisure applying layers of dough onto a to sample reasonably priced,
complex has panoramic views of rotating spit over an open fire. authentic local cuisine.
the surrounding pine forests. The
menu offers a wide choice of local DRUSKININKAI: Kolonada € KAUNAS: Bernelių Užeiga €€
and international cuisine. Lithuanian Road Map D6 Lithuanian Road Map D5
V Kudirkos gatvė 22 M Valančiaus 9
AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 6620 6062 Tel 6140 5236
Žuvėdra € Occupying an early 20th-century This tavern-style restaurant in
Lithuanian Road Map E5 colonnaded building in a park, an 18th-century building serves
Mokyklos gatvė 11, Ignalina Kolonada is popular with the generous portions of traditional
Tel 6860 9069 local arty crowd. A good selection cuisine. Mouthwatering options
Part of the Žuvėdra Hotel (see of national dishes is served though include potato dumplings,
p305), this pleasant restaurant is service can be slow. There is live mutton cooked in beer, rabbit
surrounded by pretty gardens jazz, blues and classical music. stew and potato pancakes.
KAUNAS: Buon Giorno €€ view. The food cannot quite serves an appetizing choice of
Italian Road Map D5 match the panorama, but the Karaim cuisine, including fish
Daukanto 14 simple fare and a children’s baked in pastry and other similar
Tel 6106 3777 playground make it an attractive pasty-style dishes.
Revelling in Italian gastronomy, destination for families. On
Buon Giorno serves great pizza, the Vilnius–Sudervė–Kernavė TRAKAI: Senoji Kibininė €
pasta and bruschetta. This branch road, turn left towards Vievis, Karaim Road Map D6
is a trattoria with full meals. For continue for a couple of Karaimų 65
drinks and lighter bites head to kilometres and it’s on the left. Tel (528) 55 865
the taverna of the same name Located in an atmospheric barn,
(and quality) found at Vilniaus 34. MARIJAMPOLĖ: Sudavija € Senoji Kibininė specializes in
Lithuanian Road Map C6 traditional čenakai (stewed
KAUNAS: Moksha €€ Sodo 1a cabbage) and kibinai, Karaim
Indian Road Map D5 Tel (343) 52 995 pasties stuffed with a choice of
Vasario 16-osios 6 Expect home-cooked food filling including mutton, beef
Tel 6767 1649 served by attentive waiting staff and vegetables or, for dessert,
Highly regarded for its Indian and at this cosy dining room in the chocolate and nuts.
Thai food, Moksha is an intimate Sudavija Hotel. The relaxed interior
place in the Old Town with features crisp white tablecloths, a TRAKAI: Bona €€
whitewashed walls and simple fireplace and a piano. International Road Map D6
furniture. Dishes are spiced to Karaimų 53a
European tastes, and the staff PANEVĖŽYS: Hesburger Tel (528) 55 595
provide efficient service. Panevėžys Babilonas II € Bona is an upmarket pizzeria
International Road Map D5 with an enviable lakeside spot
KAUNAS: Pompėja €€ Klaipėdos 143 providing wonderful views of
Mediterranean Road Map D5 Tel 6730 2758 the castle. Well-prepared inter-
V Putvinskio 38 Part of an ubiquitous Baltic chain national dishes are available in
Tel (37) 422 055 of McDonald’s-style fast-food addition to pizza.
Pompėja has a well-deserved restaurants, Hesburger has
reputation for fine Mediterranean hamburgers, fries, wraps, cakes TRAKAI: Remus €€
food. Mock Classical frescoes and and salads. With efficient service, International Road Map D6
clay floor tiles conjure up the it is convenient for a quick meal. Karaimų 93a
spirit of ancient Rome. Tel 6981 3777
PANEVĖŽYS: Déjà vu €€ Serving first-class European and
International Road Map D5 Lithuanian cuisine, this luxurious
DK Choice Kranto gatvė 24 venue modelled on an English
KAUNAS: Uoksas €€ Tel (45) 584 859 rowing club features plenty of
International Road Map D5 Panevėžys’ classiest restaurant is polished wood, antique boating
Maironio 28 located within the Romantic paraphernalia and even a small
Tel 6863 8881 Closed Sun Hotel (see p306) and features an museum dedicated to rowing.
One of Kaunas’s best restaurants, elegant interior with paintings
Uoksas has an open kitchen and soft furnishings. Imaginative TRAKAI: Akmeninė
where diners can watch the dishes include caramelized duck Rezidencija €€€
chefs prepare inventive dishes breast, baby octopus risotto, Caucasian Road Map D6
using liquid nitrogen and other and pear salad. Bražuolės village
cutting-edge cooking methods. Tel 6983 0544
Innovative food presentation TRAKAI: Kybynlar € Nestled in a picturesque spot on
features
features the use of slate, stone Karaim Road Map D6 the shore of Lake Akmena, the
and wooden slabs in place of Karaimų 29 rustic yet elegant restaurant at
plates and rough woollen bread Tel 6980 6320 this secluded hotel (see p306)
baskets instead of traditional This riverside restaurant with a serves dishes such as baked
wicker ones. pleasant summer terrace and rabbit’s liver, smoked eel, and
traditionally decorated interior meat and fish shashlik (kebab).
KĖDAINIAI: Grėjaus Namas €

Lithuanian Road Map D5
Didžioji gatvė 36
Tel (347) 51 500
Housed in the vaulted cellar of
the Old Town hotel bearing the
same name (see p306), Grėjaus
Namas is one of the loveliest
restaurants in Central Lithuania
and serves first-class cuisine in
elegant surroundings.
KERNAVĖ: Pušynėlis €
Lithuanian Road Map D5
Verkšionys, near Dūkštai
Tel 6991 4103
Situated above a thickly forested
bend in the Neris river, Pušynėlis
commands an almost primordial Alfresco eating at traditional Karaim restaurant, Kybynlar in Trakai
TRAKAI: Apvalaus Stalo CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL

Klubas €€€ PARK: Lyra € PARK: Nidos Seklyčia €€
French/Lithuanian Road Map D6 Lithuanian Road Map B5 International Road Map B5
Karaimų 53a Preilos 15, Preila Lotmiškio gatvė 1, Nida
Tel (528) 55 595 Tel 6124 6447 Tel (469) 50 000
With floor-to-ceiling windows, Located in Preila, one of the One of Nida’s classiest
this classy lakeside restaurant Curonian Spit’s smaller fishing restaurants is located in the
enjoys splendid views of the villages, this unpretentious Nidos Seklyčia guesthouse (see
castle. It serves gourmet French seasonal restaurant serves p306). The restaurant has an
food and exquisitely presented generous portions of Lithuanian elegant interior and a tree-
Lithuanian specialities. food. The back garden’s summer shaded summer terrace with
terrace has lovely views over gorgeous views out to sea.
VILNIUSKLAIPĖDA the lagoon. The menu features imaginative
MOTORWAY: Tvirtovė prie cuisine fusing Lithuanian and
Didžiulio € CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL international recipes.
Lithuanian Road Map D5 PARK: Po Vyšniom €
Dėdeliškių village, 20km (12 miles) Lithuanian Road Map B5 CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
west of Vilnius Nagliu 10, Nida PARK: Vela Bianca €€
Tel (5) 243 2389 Tel 6125 2822 Italian Road Map B5
In a modern three-storey brick Despite having a short menu, L Rėzos 1a, Juodkrantė
castle by the A1 motorway, this this café-restaurant in a pretty Tel 6211 2503
restaurant with kitsch decor wooden cottage surrounded by One of the Curonian Spit’s finest
serves simple food and beer, and idyllic gardens fills up quickly in restaurants, Vela Bianca occupies
has fine views of the countryside. season. Book in advance. an enviable waterside spot with
panoramic views of the lagoon
VILNIUSMOLĖTAI ROAD: CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL and harbour. It specializes in
HBH Vilnius € PARK: Tik Pas Joną € fabulous seafood creations and
Lithuanian Road Map D5 Lithuanian Road Map B5 great carrot cake.
Molėtų plentas, 17km (11 miles) Nagliu 6-1, Nida
north of Vilnius Tel 6208 2084 KLAIPĖDA: Čili Pica €
Tel 6570 7007 A simple outdoor restaurant Italian Road Map B5
Just off the A14 to Molėtai, this specializing in locally smoked Liepų 2
thatched mansion has a warren of fish. Smoked eel is a favourite, Tel (46) 210 201
atmospheric dining rooms serving and all food is served on paper The most central of the national
excellent dishes, including stewed plates with plastic cutlery. pizza chain’s eateries in Klaipėda,
dumplings and potato pasties. Splendid sea views. this is a pleasant venue for tasty
pizza, pasta and salad served by
VILNIUSPANEVĖŽYS ROAD: CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL a busy team of enthusiastic
Le Paysage €€€ PARK: In Vino €€ young waiters.
French Road Map D5 International Road Map B5
A2 motorway, 19km (12 miles) north Taikos gatvė 32, Nida KLAIPĖDA: Forto Dvaras €
of Vilnius Tel 6557 7997 Lithuanian Road Map B5
Tel (5) 273 9700 An excellent choice of well- Sukilėlių 8
Part of the vast lakeside Vilnius prepared dishes is accompanied Tel 6403 7654
Grand Resort, Le Paysage is by an extensive wine list at this With a view across Theatre
an upmarket restaurant with laid-back wine bar and restaurant. Square, this highly regarded
impeccable service and exquisite There are stunning views of the Old Town restaurant has a superb
food. There are fabulous views sea from both inside and looking choice of meat-based and
from its summer terrace. out from the rooftop terrace. vegetarian Lithuanian cuisine.
Advance booking is
VISAGINAS: Prospektas € recommended. KLAIPĖDA: Herkus Kantas €
Lithuanian Road Map E5 International Road Map B5
Taikos 10 Kepėjų 17
Tel 6206 0056 Tel 6858 7338 Closed Sun, Mon
Meaty mains, salads and desserts This vibrant Old Town bar in the
can be enjoyed at this smart cramped cellar of a historic
restaurant, a popular choice for building specializes in beers from
weddings and banquets. small Lithuanian breweries and
serves a selection of international
dishes. The waterfront terrace
is open in summer.
Western Lithuania
KLAIPĖDA: Senoji Hansa €
CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL Lithuanian Road Map B5
PARK: Ešerinė € Kurpių 1
International Road Map B5 Tel (46) 400 056
Naglių 2, Nida Popular during the day for
Tel (469) 52 757 coffee breaks and light meals,
A thatched-roof restaurant and and in the evening for reasonably
bar with sweeping sea views. priced Lithuanian cuisine,
Popular with both drinkers and this Old Town eatery has a
diners, it has a good choice of Stairs leading down to Russian restaurant great central location with
local and international cuisine. Stora Antis, Klaipėda outdoor seating.
DK Choice
KLAIPĖDA: Ararat €€
Armenian Road Map B5
Liepų 48a
Tel (46) 410 001
For an exotic dining experience,
head for this restaurant in the
Ararat Hotel, where modern
decor is com bined with the
combined
bright colours of Armenian
textiles. The meaty menu
features beautifully presented
dishes including sublime
lamb options.
KLAIPĖDA: Momo Grill €€

International Road Map B5 Cellar dining room at Lithuanian restaurant Arkos in Šiauliai
Liepų 20
Tel 6931 2355 Closed Sun, Mon PALANGA: 1925 € ŠIAULIAI: Juonė Pastuogė €
Known as one of the best places International Road Map B5 Lithuanian Road Map C4
in town for steak, this great little J Basanavičiaus 4 Aušros al. 31a
restaurant is often booked up Tel (460) 52 526 Tel (41) 524 926
well in advance thanks to its A pub-restaurant with a wood- A broad choice of imaginative
superb service and a weekly panelled interior and open fire- dishes is offered here. There is
menu that changes according place that has great food and first- live pop and folk music most
to what’s in season. class service. International dishes evenings and outdoor
and Lithuanian staples such as performances at weekends.
KLAIPĖDA: Stora Antis €€ smoked pigs’ ears are on offer.
Russian Road Map B5 ŠIAULIAI: Arkos €€
Tiltų gatvė 6 PALANGA: Vila Žvaigždė € Lithuanian Road Map C4
Tel (46) 493 910 Closed Sun, Mon Ukrainian Road Map B5 Vilniaus 213
This candlelit restaurant occupies S Daukanto 6 Tel 6503 1330
a vaulted brick cellar in the Old Tel 6565 9691 Enjoy authentic cuisine at this
Town. Well-known favourites This well-established restaurant cellar-based bar-restaurant with
such as borsch (beetroot soup) serves delicious food such as high wood-beamed ceilings. Fish
and pelmeni (stuffed dumplings) potato pancakes and home- predominates in summer while
are on the menu. made dumplings. Vintage meats ranging from beef to
wallpaper and black-and-white ostrich are prevalent in winter.
KLAIPĖDA: Viva la Vita €€€ photographs add to the appeal. Excellent wine list.
International Road Map B5
Naujojo Sodo 1 PALANGA: De Cuba €€ ŠIAULIAI: My Thai €€
Tel (46) 404 372 International Road Map B5 Thai Road Map C4
Though it serves exotic cocktails J Basanavičiaus 28 P Višinskio 41b, IIa
and exquisitely presented Tel (460) 51 011 Tel 6000 3056
international cuisine, the main The huge menu at this lively bar- For those in search of something
reason people come here is for restaurant has potato pancakes, a little more exotic in Šiauliai, this
the views from the 20th floor of cepelinai (potato dumplings) and peaceful restaurant run by
the Amberton Hotel. international choices. There is Lithuanians with a passion for
plenty of outdoor seating around Thai cuisine is the perfect choice.
KRETINGA: Pas Grafą € an ornamental pond.
Lithuanian Road Map B5 ŠILUTĖ: Rambynas €
Vilniaus 20 PALANGA: Žuvinė €€ International Road Map B5
Tel (445) 51 366 International Road Map B5 Lietuvininkų gatvė 68a
This elegant café-restaurant in J Basanavičiaus 37a Tel (441) 77 055
the glass-enclosed winter Tel (460) 48 070 This central restaurant also serves
gardens of Count Tyskiewicz’s This wonderful beachfront res- as a bar, café and nightclub. The
19th-century palace is perfect for taurant has an impressive choice extensive menu includes
coffee and a pastry. More sub- of fish and seafood, from simple Lithuanian staples as well as
stantial meals are available too. herrings to oysters and fine black pizza, hamburgers and more.
caviar. Efficient service.
NEMUNAS DELTA: Ventainė € ŽEMAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Lithuanian Road Map B5 RASEINIAI: Karpynė € Linelis €
Marių gatvė 7, Ventė village Lithuanian Road Map C5 International Road Map C4
Tel 6867 0490 Karpynės 2, Gabšių village Paplatelės village
Part of a secluded hotel, campsite Tel (428) 70 123 Tel 6557 7666
and aquapark beside the Curonian Try your luck catching carp, trout This cosy lakeside restaurant is
Lagoon (see p307), this simple or pike in the lake or just stop by set amidst pretty gardens and is
restaurant has great views from its this thatched mini-village with part of the Linelis hotel (see p307).
summer terrace and serves freshly rooms, a campsite, a brewery and The menu features local and
caught fish and regional dishes saunas for a hearty fish or international cuisine and a good
made with local ingredients. meat meal. selection of wines.
SHOPPING IN ESTONIA
Traditional handicrafts and souvenirs can be specialities, including handicrafts, locally
found all over Estonia. The country’s retail woven textiles such as blankets and rugs, and
sector is, in general, quite uniform outside high-quality organic honey from local farms.
the major towns of Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu. Most towns hold small markets where visitors
Shopping malls have had a considerable can find food and household items. Antique
impact on smaller towns and the same stores stores also sell some interesting objects.
and brand names fill out the bulk of these Prices are usually lower outside Tallinn.
identikit malls. Despite this, towns and Estonian chocolate, alcohol and cigars are
villages are good places to find local readily available in most supermarkets.
can claim a VAT refund

on some goods over
€127. Ask the shop
for a VAT refund
cheque, which then
needs to be stamped
by customs. You can
get a refund at Tallinn
Airport, or check
www.globalrefund.com
for locations.
Sales
Throughout Estonia,
sales are usually held
in the middle and at
Stockmann, one of the best department stores in Estonia the end of a season,
although the most
Opening Hours Rights and Refunds significant reductions are
Most shops are generally open In Estonia, all goods come reserved for the New Year
from 10am to 6 or 7pm on with a two-year warranty sales. Watch out for a sign in
weekdays, and from 10am under EU law. However, after shop windows, which may
to 5pm on Saturdays and a period of six months from read as allahindlus (discount),
Sundays. Shopping centres the date of purchase, the soodusmüük (sale), lõpumüük
usually open from 10am to 8 or customer might be asked to (final sale), or tühjendusmüük
9pm daily. In small towns and prove that the defect existed (everything must go).
villages, opening hours are at the time of buying and was
more erratic at weekends, with not introduced later. Warranties
many shops only opening for are only effective on produc- Markets
half a day or staying closed. tion of a valid receipt. Just about every Estonian
Grocery stores normally keep Refunds remain discretionary town has a market, known as
longer hours, and in Tallinn on the part of the seller, a turg, although they often
there are several 24-hour although most major stores only sell fruit, vegetables,
convenience stores. will provide a refund as long household goods and other
as there is no damage to the everyday items. There is little
goods and the receipt is in the way of souvenirs or
How to Pay produced. Legal guidance can curios to be found in these
All large stores and the majority be sought from the Consumer markets. Kuressaare market in
of small shops throughout Centre of Estonia (see p335), Saaremaa is a rare exception.
Estonia accept most major which protects consumer It also sells trinkets, such as
credit and debit cards. Retail rights in the case of cross- dolomite-carved objects, in
outlets prominently display border purchases. addition to local produce. For
logos for accepted credit and Estonian mementos the best
debit cards. Visitors may be bet is to attend one of the
asked for proof of identity when VAT Exemption annual folk or town festivals
paying with a credit card. Nearly all goods and services held across the country. During
However, most market stalls are subject to 20 per cent VAT, these, temporary markets are
and out-of-the-way places which is always included in the set up, with stalls selling an
accept only cash. display prices. Non-EU citizens array of local delicacies, quirky
SHOPPING IN ESTONIA 333
souvenirs. In Tallinn, traditional

items, such as hand-knitted
mittens and socks, lace,
ceramics, amber, leather-bound
books, silver ware and objects
carved out of limestone, are
widely available. Kihnu Island
(see p105) is famed for its
colourful and elaborately
patterned handmade rugs,
as well as thick woollen
fishermen’s jumpers made
by the island’s inhabitants.
In southeastern Estonia,
home to the Setu people
(see p124), one can purchase
authentic examples of the
embroidered shawls and ornate
Fashionable clothes and accessories displayed at the Kaubamaja store in Tallinn jewellery that are unique to
their culture. The Setu were also
gifts and a fascinating range but they offer little for the the only people in Estonia to
of handicrafts, including discerning shopper. commonly use pottery, which is
colourful ceramics, stained Supermarkets, such as sold in several ceramics shops.
glass and woodcarvings. Selver and Rimi, are extremely Today, pottery fairs peddle their
common throughout Estonia. wares in the main Setu towns.
These enormous hypermarkets The use of dolomite is unique
Department Stores and sell just about everything one to Saaremaa Island (see pp96–9).
Shopping Malls can think of, from everyday Dolomite is used to make a
The country’s best department household items to an wide range of souvenirs, such
stores, such as Stockmann extensive range of alcoholic as carved ashtrays and pestles
and Kaubamaja (see p335), drinks, chocolates, cigarettes and mortars. Muhu Island is
are in Tallinn, although and music. famous for its embroidered
Kaubamaja has opened a handmade slippers and bright
huge department store in orange knitwear. Pärnu (see
Tartu. Shopping malls are far Regional Specialities pp102–3) is known for its linen
more prevalent and are Visitors can buy a number of and the most popular souvenirs
springing up in town centres popular local products from all in the coastal resort of Haapsalu
and suburbs all around the over Estonia. The country has a (see pp92–3) are hand-woven
country at a phenomenal rate. stunning selection of regional and beautifully patterned
Malls are good for essentials, specialities that make ideal white shawls.
Beautifully crafted cane baskets on sale in a local market

Shopping in Tallinn
Tallinn has witnessed a proliferation of sleek new shopping
malls in recent years. Most international brand names can be
found alongside a considerable range of popular Scandinavian
brands. Tallinn’s Old Town, which has some exclusive fashion
boutiques and speciality art shops, is also one of the best places
in the capital for gift shopping and souvenir hunting. Almost
every street has something in the way of traditional handicrafts,
such as ceramics, glassware, linen, wooden utensils and toys.
There are plenty of stores and market stalls which specialize in
art, antiques, jewellery, amber, knitted woollens, patchwork Colourful ceramic collection at the stylish
quilts and interesting knick-knacks. The Christmas Market in Bogapott studio
Town Hall Square is especially popular and brings together
virtually every imaginable Estonian product.
Handicrafts
Much more than just souvenirs
aimed at tourists, Estonian
handicrafts are synonymous
with a traditional way of life that
persists even today. Tallinn
abounds with a bewildering
variety of handicrafts. Wooden
toys and utensils are particularly
common as are a wide range of
ceramics, including candle-
holders modelled after the Old
Town buildings. Traditionally
woven rugs are still made today,
some of which are more like
Russian dolls and amber jewellery for sale on one of Tallinn’s souvenir stalls works of art with their beautiful
and elaborate patterns.
Markets the corner of Viru and Bogapott, an exclusive
Tallinn’s main market, the Müürivahe covers a sizeable ceramics studio, and Galerii
open-air Central Market, offers stretch of the Old Town wall Kaks, with its wide range of
a glimpse into the everyday life and is a great place to find a textiles, are worthy of a visit.
of the city’s inhabitants. Stalls gift. Uus Käsitööturg, a popular Nukupood stocks handmade
full of fresh produce may not stall in the market, has a good toys as well as dolls dressed in
offer much variety for the selection of traditional traditional folk costumes of
average souvenir-hunter, but handicrafts and souvenirs. The Estonia. In Katariina Gild,
the Central Market’s bustling Christmas Market in Town Hall craftsmen can be seen creating
atmosphere is worth the Square (see pp62–3), which runs handicrafts, jewellery and
experience. Those interested in through December, features ceramics. A-Galerii has a
shopping can try and haggle. everything from knitwear and dazzling selection of local
The market selling knitwear at decorative items to marzipan. handmade jewellery.
Art and Antiques

Tallinn’s contemporary art scene
offers plenty of galleries and
small shops that stock all
manner of attractive oil
paintings, graphic art, textiles,
sculpture and off-beat ceramics.
The city has several antique
stores selling everything from
Soviet-era paraphernalia to
exorbitantly priced Russian
icons. Emerging only in the
1990s, antique shops have
quickly become a fascinating
Woven baskets, knitting wool and textiles at the Town Hall Square market and flourishing retail niche.
SHOPPING IN ESTONIA 335
Special permission is needed DIRECTORY

to take some objects out of
the country, so check with the Handicrafts
shop manager before buying.
A-Galerii
With a stunning range of bronze
Hobusepea 2. Tel 646 4101.
items, silverware and crystals,
Reval Antiik and Shifara Art & Bogapott
Antiques are among Tallinn’s Pikk jalg 9. Tel 631 3181.
best antiques stores. ∑ bogapott.ee
Galerii Kaks
Books and Music Lühike jalg 1. Tel 641 8308.
The best bookstore in Tallinn for Katariina Gild
English-language books is
Vene 12. Tel 644 5365.
Apollo. This outlet has a range
∑ katariinagild.eu
of gift books relating to Estonian Kaubamaja store, one of Tallinn’s leading
culture and history, as well as a shopping venues Nukupood
small selection of Estonian Raekoja plats 18. Tel 644 3058.
novels translated into English. halvah and blood sausage,
Look out for the English during the Christmas season. Art and Antiques
translation of The Czar’s Try the gourmet section at
Madman and Treading Air by Kaubamaja for a variety. For Reval Antiik
Jaan Kross (1920–2007), the chocolate lovers, Kalev, Estonia’s Harju 13. Tel 644 0747.
esteemed Estonian writer. largest and oldest chocolate ∑ reval-antique.ee
Estonia’s wealth of choral and and confectionary producer,
Shifara Art & Antiques
classical music also makes offers a wide range of
Vana-posti 7. Tel 644 3536.
for a great gift. CDs of luxury chocolates
∑ shifara-antique.ee
the works of with picturesque
renowned composers, prints of Tallinn on
such as Heino Eller the box. These choco-
Books and Music
(1887–1970), Eduard Logo of lates can be bought Apollo
Tubin (1905–82) and Kalev chocolate from local food stores. Estonia pst 9. Tel 633 6000.
Arvo Pärt (see p27), are Real chocolate
∑ apollo.ee
widely available, as are folk music connoisseurs should try the
One of several branches.
and choral music compilations. handmade delicacies at Anneli
Lasering, one of the leading Viik. There are also numerous Lasering
music stores in Tallinn, has an bakeries selling delicious Pärnu mnt 38. Tel 627 9279.
impressive selection of various pastries and cakes. Stockmann, ∑ lasering.ee
kinds of music and a separate one of the largest department One of several branches.
section on classical music. stores, also stocks cakes, bagels
and savouries. Food and Drink
Vana Tallinn (see p312), a very
sweet brown liqueur, is Anneli Viik
considered to be the national Pikk 30. Tel 644 4530.
drink of Estonia. Those without a ∑ anneliviik.ee
sweet tooth may prefer it mixed
with coffee, while some people Kaubamaja
even drink it with milk. In terms Gonsiori 2. Tel 667 3100.
of sheer consumption, beer is ∑ kaubamaja.ee
by far the most popular drink in Liviko
Estonia. Saku Originaal is the Mere pst 6. Tel 683 7745.
dominant brand, but Tartu
∑ liviko.ee
Alexander and A Le Coq beers
One of several branches.
are popular brews as well. There
Apollo, Tallinn’s primary bookstore, stocks a is an abundance of locally made, Stockmann
range of gift books as well as quality imported, Liivalaia 53. Tel 633 9539.
vodka, which is considerably ∑ stockmann.ee
cheaper than in other European
Food and Drink countries. Saare Džinn, a gin Rights and Refunds
Estonian food products are flavoured with berries from the
ubiquitous and can usually be Estonian islands, is good too. Consumer Centre of Estonia
found in any supermarket. Rye Liviko, one of Estonia’s leading Pronksi 12. Tel 620 1708.
bread is a local staple, as are alcohol producers, has stores all ∑ consumer.ee
sprats, smoked fish and cheese, over Tallinn.
SHOPPING IN LATVIA
Numerous supermarkets and shopping normally good places to pick up interesting
centres have opened in major towns and cities mementos when a town or village lacks a
throughout the country since 1991. However, dedicated souvenir retailer. Several workshops
Rīga undoubtedly has the country’s largest across the country allow visitors to watch
range of shopping options. This is particularly artisans at work and even make their own
true when it comes to items likely to be of pottery, woodwork and other items to take
interest to visitors, although outside the home. Latvian markets cater mostly to local
capital it is usually possible to find typical people, but can still be fascinating places to
handicraft items such as amber jewellery and visit. Local honey, chocolate, beer or a bottle of
embroidered knitwear. Museum gift shops are Black Balsam can make excellent gifts.
Opening Hours in the airport or the land at tourists and are most useful
Most shops in Latvia open borders with Russia, at for everyday food purchases.
around 10am. Small shops close Terehova and Grebņeva. However, some markets are
around 6 or 7pm, while bigger For departures from other extremely atmospheric, such
malls and shopping centres locations, the receipt should as Petertirgus in the covered
usually stay open until 10pm. be stamped and sent to Global market hall in Liepāja (see
Many small shops remain closed Blue Latvia (see p339), along pp184–5), which is a real throw-
on Sundays. with the visitor’s bank details, back to the Soviet era. In the
within six months. summer months, some
markets, like the ones in
How to Pay Jūrmala, sell souvenirs as
In cities and large towns, it is Sales well as fresh produce.
possible to pay with debit Although locally made items
cards and major credit cards are fairly cheap compared to
such as MasterCard or VISA. those in other EU countries, Department Stores and
Some places will also accept prices for imported goods tend Shopping Malls
American Express and Diners to be high in Latvia, a situation Most sizeable towns have at
Club. In smaller towns and which has not been helped by least one department store or
villages cash payment in the regular bouts of high inflation. supermarket. Several malls and
local currency, the euro, may One way of picking up a shopping centres have been
be the only option. bargain is to visit the end-of- built in important cities such
It is rare for traveller’s season sales, when shops as Rīga, Ventspils, Liepāja and
cheques to be accepted as reduce their prices. Daugavpils. Some of these
payment outside Rīga, the malls are located in the
capital city, although those outskirts of the cities, while
issued by major companies Markets others are more central and
can usually be exchanged at Most Latvian towns have easy to access. The larger
most banks. regular or even daily markets, retailers include Rimi, Maxima
although they are rarely aimed and Mego.
VAT Exemption
Visitors from non-EU countries
are entitled to a VAT refund of
up to 12 per cent, provided
that the items were purchased
in a shop displaying the “Tax
Free” logo and the total price
of purchases made from the
shop was at least 50 euros.
Identification must be shown
at the point of purchase, and a
Global Refund receipt com-
pleted. Purchased items
cannot be used until the
receipt is stamped by a
customs official when leaving
the country. The VAT can be
reclaimed at the customs zone Collection of fresh produce for sale at the Central Market, Rīga
S H O P P I N G I N L AT V I A 337
Handcrafted items displayed at the Ludza Handicrafts Centre, Eastern Latvia

Handicrafts Kalniņš making replicas of lost during war and occupation.
Traditional Latvian handicrafts ancient designs. Another place In spite of this, antique shops
include handmade linen, amber to find handicraft items is the are well worth exploring,
jewellery, woodwork and branch of Tornis in the tower of especially because they often
knitwear embroidered with Turaida Castle near Sigulda. stock interesting items.
popular Latvian folk symbols. The best place to buy art is
Motifs from the natural world, in commercial art galleries.
such as the sun, stars or trees, Food and Drink A licence, which is available at
are commonly used as part of Available in many varieties, most shops, is usually required
the repertoire of geometric Laima (see p339) chocolate has before genuine antiques can be
designs found on many been made in Latvia for decades exported. The shops are helpful
handcrafted goods. A parti- and is among the country’s most with the paperwork.
cularly attractive popular buys.
example is the Another common
Lielvārdes josta, a gift is Rīga’s Black Amber
long red-and- Balsam, a herbal Amber jewellery is a popular
white woven belt liqueur that is Latvian souvenir, despite the
which features A bar of Laima, Latvia’s supposed to have fact that resin is less commonly
symbolic patterns, favourite chocolate medicinal properties, discovered in Latvia than
and is a part of which comes in an Lithuania. It is readily available
Latvian wedding costumes. attractive ceramic bottle. Visitors in tourist areas, such as Jūrmala,
These belts are available in usually prefer it in cocktails or and in some museum shops.
souvenir shops in Rīga, and can with blackcurrant juice rather Buyers should be aware that
be seen on display at the than neat. not all amber is genuine, as
Pumpurs Museum in Lielvārde, Beer also makes a good gift. various plastics are used to
or even made to order. Latvians are enthusiastic beer- emulate it. Visitors spending a
Visitors can watch artisans at drinkers so there are several large sum of money on amber
work in several places, such as brands to choose from. The objects should ask for a
the House of Craftsmen in most popular ones are inter- certificate of authenticity, and
Liepāja. The Handicrafts Centre nationally owned, but more it is generally safer to buy from
in Ludza has workshops where unusual brews include the an established shop rather
visitors can try their hand at craft- yeasty Užavas, which is made than a street-seller.
ing items themselves. Musical near Ventspils, and Valmiera’s
instruments can be purchased Valmiermuiža.
from the Musical Instruments Roadside Stalls
Workshop in Gaigalava. In the countryside, especially in
The Smithy of Ancient Art and Antiques rural Latgale, it is common to
Jewellery in the New Castle in Genuinely valuable Latvian see stalls at the side of the road
Cēsis calls itself a workshop of antiques are not easy to find, selling fresh produce. Latvian
experimental archaeology, with partly because the 20th century honey is particularly delicious
master craftsman Daumants saw many of them destroyed or and also makes a good gift.
Shopping in Rīga designs, while modern styles

from up-and-coming designers
Once a member of the powerful Hanseatic League (see p36), can be found at Klase in
the Latvian capital has had a distinguished mercantile history. Berga Bazaars.
Although its harbour is no longer one of the most important In addition to countless
places selling amber necklaces
in the region, commerce has flourished since the restoration
and bracelets, there are several
of independence, with boutiques and department stores shops offering more unusual
springing up throughout the city. Specialist shops can be jewellery. The stylish Putti
found all over the Old Town and in shopping malls, while gallery stocks jewellery by
major high-street brands are available in Centrs. Souvenir Latvian designers and also
shops, mostly found in the Old Town, sell handicrafts of holds exhibitions.
variable quality including linen, amber jewellery and
knitwear. Handmade chocolates and Rīga Black Balsam, Handicrafts
the city’s signature drink, are popular gifts. There are numerous souvenir
shops in the Old Town stocking
items such as linen and
Department Stores and clientele for folk wooden toys. In some
Shopping Malls recordings. Rīga’s best cases, however, these
The years since independence music outlet is Upe, a are mass-produced
have witnessed the development chain owned by the former rather than handmade. More
of many shopping centres and frontman of folk-rock band unique and practical gifts can
department stores as well as the Jauns Mēness. Upe specializes be found in Riija, which offers
renovation of stalwarts such as in folk music from Latvia and ecologically produced crafts
the 1920s Galerija Centrs. beyond, and also has a and household items.
Upmarket boutiques and wine bar. Randoms is Decorative wall lamp Pienene boasts a wide
galleries can be found at Berga perhaps the biggest range of souvenirs, while
Bazārs, a 19th-century enclave music shop in the Baltic States. more can be found in the open-
of shops, offices, restaurants and Cheap CDs can be bought at the air Egle craft market. Some shops
apartments. The Galleria Rīga Central Market, although bootleg also sell Russian objects such as
shopping mall is the hub of versions are rife. matryoshka, wooden dolls of
designer fashion, while mc² has various sizes that are placed
stores specializing in gourmet one inside the other.
food and home accessories. Clothing and Jewellery
For more basic shopping there Handwoven garments, lace
is Stockmann, on the edge of items and knitwear are popular Art and Antiques
the Old Town. souvenirs. Designer clothes are There are many commercial art
available at upmarket stores, galleries in Rīga and the tourist
while smaller shops sell information office can provide an
Markets traditional woollen garments. up-to-date list. Māksla XO is one
Housed in five huge zeppelin Tines sells handmade wool of the city’s most highly regarded
hangars, Rīga’s Central Market and linen items in traditional galleries. Art Nouveau Rīga, a
has most of its indoor space
dedicated to food, while the
stalls and kiosks selling CDs,
clothes and electrical goods are
outside. Also of interest is the
covered outdoor antiques and
organic food market on the
second and fourth Sunday of
each month at Berga Bazārs.
Latvians love to give flowers
and the city’s main Flower
Market is open 24 hours a day,
through the year.
Music
Folk music was a key part of the
National Awakening Movement
(1856), although in the years
since independence it has
become harder to find a sizeable A shopper browsing for souvenirs at Art Nouveau Rīga
S H O P P I N G I N L AT V I A 339
Food and Drink

Laima has been one of Latvia’s
leading chocolate makers since
1870 and it has many shops
throughout Rīga, as well as a
chocolate museum. In recent
years, however, its position
has been challenged by
the more upmarket Emils
Gustavs Chocolate, which
also has several sophisticated
stores in Rīga.
For something more
Amber jewellery displayed in a shop window traditional, many varieties of
honey are available for tasting
leading souvenir shop, offers Amber at the Jāņa Bišu Honey Room,
attractive reproductions, along Rīga has dozens of shops along with other bee-related
with scarves, mugs and other selling amber jewellery. products. Desa & Co (Sausage
objects inspired by early Hard to miss is Amber Line, & Company) is one of the few
20th-century designs. The shop which has numerous places in the city where visitors
is conveniently located at the branches all over the city. can taste and buy deer, wild
end of Alberta iela, a street with IG Romuls, under the pig and bison, all raised on
the city’s most impressive Town Hall, sells amber their farm in the Latvian
Art Nouveau buildings. jewellery in traditional countryside, along with
Rīga also has a fine selection of and more modern styles, other locally produced
antique shops, mostly clustered designed by two ecological items. The
around Brīvības iela. Upmarket generations of the famous Rīga Black Balsam
emporiums include Doma Romuls family. Amber also makes a popular gift,
Antikvariāts, while Art Embassy can also be bought from which probably has as
specializes in diverse artworks street stalls and even in much to do with the
created in Latvia during the 20th the Central Market, but ceramic bottles it comes
century. Religious icons and be aware that such in as with the drink itself.
musical instruments are available items might not be Rīga Black It is widely available
at Volmar. the genuine article. Balsam throughout the city.
DIRECTORY
Department Upe Riija IG Romuls
Stores and Vaļņu iela 26. Tel 6720 Tērbatas iela 6/8. Ratslaukums 1. Tel 2655
Shopping Malls 5509. ∑ upeveikals.lv Tel 6728 4828. ∑ riija.lv 5363. ∑ romuls.lv
Berga Bazārs Clothing and Art and Antiques Food and Drink
Dzirnavu iela 84. Jewellery
∑ bergabazars.lv Art Embassy Desa & Co
Klase Ausekla iela 6A. Maskavas iela 4.
Galerija Centrs Dzirnavu iela 83/85. Tel 2918 5957. Tel 6721 6186.
Audēju iela16. Tel 2779 1635. Art Nouveau Rīga Emils Gustavs
Tel 6701 8018. ∑ modesklase.lv Strēlnieku 9. Chocolate
∑ galerijacentrs.lv
Putti Tel 6733 3030. Blaumaņa iela 38/40.
Galleria Rīga Peitavas iela 5. Tel 6721 Doma Antikvariāts Tel 2765 9383.
Dzirnavu iela 67. Tel 6750 4229. ∑ putti.lv Smilšu iela 8. ∑ emilsgustavs.com
8000. ∑ galleriariga.lv Tel 2916 6504.
Tines Jāņa Bišu
mc² Vāgnera iela 5. Māksla XO Pēterbaznīcas iela 17.
Krasta iela 68a. Tel 6721 1009. ∑ tines.lv Elizabetes iela 14. Tel 6722 4355.
Tel 6700 6868. ∑ mc2.lv Tel 2948 2098. ∑ daugmalesmedus.lv
Stockmann
Handicrafts Laima Museum & Shop
Volmar
13 Janvāra iela 8. Tel 6707 Egle Krāmu iela 4. Miera iela 22. Tel 6615
1222. ∑ stockmann.lv Kalķu iela 1a. Tel 2550 Tel 6721 4278. 4777 . ∑ laimaso-
5268. ∑ spogulegle.lv koladesmuzejs.lv
Music Amber
Pienene VAT Exemption
Randoms Kungu iela 7/9. Amber Line
Kaļķu iela 4. Tel 6722 Tel 6721 0400. Torņa iela 4. Tel 6732 Global Blue Latvia
5212. ∑ randoms.lv ∑ studijapienene.lv 5058. ∑ amberline.lv ∑ global-blue.com
SHOPPING IN LITHUANIA
The souvenirs and gifts available in Lithuania superior quality and in greater variety can be
usually consist of traditional arts and found at specialist shops, which are
handicrafts made from local materials such commonly located close to the major tourist
as amber, ceramics and wood. Beautiful sights. Food and drink in Lithuania are
handmade flax or linen tablecloths and throw distinctive in taste. The local cheeses and
blankets, garments and soft toys are often smoked meats on offer are varied and
available at reasonable prices. The shops and delicious. The wide choice of Lithuanian
stalls of the Old Towns in the larger cities, as alcohol – such as trauktinės, often described
well as the various resorts, are flooded with as a bitter brandy – as well as vodka and beer,
most of these objects. Handicrafts of a are great souvenirs to carry back home.
Opening Hours shopping cheque, available at Shopping malls have a main

Shops in Lithuania are usually stores where the “Tax-Free anchor tenant, which tends to
open from 9 or 10am until 6pm Shopping” sign is displayed. be one of the leading nation-
on weekdays. Some gift and Shoppers should have their wide supermarket chains. As a
souvenir shops open at 10am. passport with them at the time result, the range of goods
Food shops and supermarkets of purchase. VAT can be paid available is practically the same
belonging to larger chains often back only if the outward journey as that found in the rest of
open at 8am and close late in is made by air, road or sea; rail is Europe. For more authentic
the evening. exempt. Visitors need to spend a shops, visit the Old Towns in
The Soviet-era practice of minimum of 50 euros, including the major cities.
closing for an hour for lunch is VAT, in a shop in one day to
slowly fading and a handful of claim the refund of sales tax.
supermarkets are open 24 Amber
hours a day. Many shops open Lithuanian artisans have
on Saturdays until 4pm, and Department Stores and applied great imagination to
some in tourist areas and in Shopping Malls the crafting of amber, an indis-
large city and town centres are To meet the growing demands putable part of the country’s
open on Sundays as well. In of local consumers, sprawling cultural heritage. They fashion
smaller towns and villages, local modern shopping complexes it into jewellery, lampshades,
stores close early so visitors are being constructed in writing materials and a great
should avoid leaving shopping Vilnius as well as in most of range of other objects.
until the evening. Lithuania’s large towns and Amber comes in browns,
cities. The malls are replacing greens and other colours,
the old department stores besides the more familiar
How to Pay dating from the Soviet era, yellow. It is also available as
As in the other countries of whose interiors were usually original polished stones, of
the Baltic region, almost all adapted in the 1990s to fit the which the most valuable
shops in Lithuania accept needs of small traders. and exquisite are those that
major international credit
and debit cards. Some smaller
retail outlets may accept only
cash. Bargaining is rarely
practised except at some
market and souvenir stalls, but
visitors are welcome to try.
VAT and Tax-Free

Shopping
In Lithuania sales tax, known
locally as pridėtinės vertės
mokestis (PVM), is levied on most
goods at a flat rate of 21 per
cent. By law, visitors from non-EU
nations can claim a refund of
sales tax from customs when
they leave the country, provided
they have completed a tax-free Europa (see p342), a stylish shopping mall in Vilnius
SHOPPING IN LITHUANIA 341
fillings), spurgos (doughnuts),

smoked and steamed cheeses
and a range of products made
from curd and sour milk.
Smoked meats are usually
sold as long, thick sausages or,
even more authentically,
bound in balls. The best local
fish to buy is herring, normally
marinated and sold in sealed
packets. Some supermarkets
also have cafés where a tradi-
tional Lithuanian meal of
cepelinai (potato dumplings), as
well as kugelis (baked potato
pudding) and vėdarai (potato
sausage) can be sampled.
Lithuanian rye bread, such as
Souvenir stall on Theatre Square, Old Town, Klaipėda the widely used black bread or
the greyer palangos, can be
have insects, plants, leaves and The agricultural nature of bought from local stores.
feathers preserved in the Lithuania has helped in Traditional šakotis (tree cake)
fossilized resin. preserving many local customs and tinginys (handmade cakes)
and traditions. Black are commonly
ceramics, in the form of available. Mushrooms
Handicrafts and Regional pots, jugs, cups and and forest berries can
Specialities figures, are among the also make unusual gifts,
Lithuanian craftsmen make all specialities of the but visitors need a
manner of objects out of wood, southern region of customs clearance to
such as handcarved spatulas Dzūkija. Further north, carry them back. Local
and spoons, and grotesque Aukštaitija is known for favourites, such as
masks of devils and witches, its rich tradition of starka (aged, caramel-
whose distorted, freakish faces music and instruments, Cognac bottles coloured vodka), or
are traditionally displayed every especially its horns and on display trejos devynerios (herbal
Shrovetide. A far more pipes. In the west, the panacea), should not
acceptable wooden memento people of Žemaitija value their be missed. The best of the
is the rūpintojėlis, a constantly religious images, miniatures and many varieties of degtinė
worrying Christ-like figure who shrines, which often incorporate (Lithuanian vodka) include the
sits with his chin on one hand. traditional pagan symbols. excellent gold-topped
Another religiously themed Lithuanian vodkas, while the
souvenir commonly made out company Alita makes a popular
of wood is the crucifix. Food and Drink eponymous brand of brandy.
For the musically inclined, Traditional foods of all kinds are Švyturys Premium Pils and the
handcarved musical instru- sold in Lithuanian shops, Švyturys Ekstra Draught are
ments, such as the alluring including blynai (a thin potato both very fine bottled beers.
Lithuanian kanklės, or zither, pancake similar to a crêpe with For more information on food
make an ideal gift. Russian both sweet and savoury and drinks see pages 310–13.
matryoshka dolls can be easily
bought from local markets.
Some of the most original
items of clothing that can be
bought in Lithuania are made
of flax. Shirts and blouses,
dresses and hand-crocheted
hats are all widely available,
particularly in the capital’s gift
and souvenir shops. A hand-
woven juosta, which is a sash
or waistband often used as
wedding attire besides being
used as a traditional form of
fortune-telling, is also widely
available and makes a good
souvenir to take home. Matryoshka dolls for sale at one of the many souvenir stalls in Lithuania
Shopping in Vilnius mini-malls dotting the avenue,

boasts the Baltic region’s popu-
The main streets of the Old Town are lined with countless lar fashion stores such as Lindex
souvenir shops, stalls and galleries that specialize in the and H&M. However, most of
national favourites of amber, linen, wood and ceramics. the outlets for more expensive
brands tend to be found in the
Many of the better quality craft shops and art galleries are
Old Town along Vokiečių and
also hidden in the Old Town’s labyrinth of narrow lanes and Didžioji gatvė (street). Vilnius
courtyards, so it is worth exploring off the beaten track. also has its own treasured and
Away from the Old Town, Gedimino prospektas (avenue) has highly sought-after designers
a number of clothing stores, bookshops and several shopping with their individual boutiques,
centres, while bigger malls with huge spaces for fashionable such as Ramunė Piekautaitė.
Perhaps Lithuania’s most visually
shopping can be found further afield. With so many choices, impressive shopping mall is
Vilnius has evolved into a shopper’s paradise. Europa, which brands itself as
a fashion and style centre.
Markets
The most extraordinary market Traditional Arts and
in Lithuania is Gariūnai, located Crafts
next to Vilnius’s towering water- Shops and stalls selling
heating facility, about 5 km traditional Lithuanian arts and
(3 miles) southwest of the city crafts are most easily found
centre. The market sells along Pilies, Didžioji and
everything from cheap clothes, Aušros vartų streets. Prices
shoes, toys, toiletries and vary, so it is best to scan the
cosmetics to food, gadgets and market stalls before buying
even cars. Traders come from One of the paintings for sale on anything. Quaint outlets selling
far and wide to sell their wares Pilies gatvė handmade artifacts at cheaper
and, unlike at other markets in rates are tucked away in
the country, bargaining is which mostly stocks a variety the narrow lanes leading
widely practised in Gariūnai. It of fresh fruit and vegetables, off the Old Town artery.
is open from sunrise to lunch- cheese, meat and cakes. Linen & Amber Studio, a
time every day of the week chain of gift shops, is among
except Mondays. The best the best places to find
time to visit the market is on Fashion and Clothing handicrafts made of amber and
weekend mornings. The spruced-up Gedimino flax. These shops stretch up the
At the southern edge of the prospektas is the best place to entire length of Pilies gatvė
Old Town, near the bus and shop for clothes and footwear. and beyond; the one on Stiklių
train stations, is Halės Market, Gedimino 9, one of the new gatvė is among the largest.
Market stall displaying traditional amber jewellery in Vilnius’s Old Town

SHOPPING IN LITHUANIA 343
For those interested in gifts

and accessories made by
local textile artists, a good
destination is Aukso Avis.
Funky felt hats, bags and
jewellery, screen-printed
shirts, garments and silk-
printed wall pieces can be
purchased here. Visitors can
also craft their own souvenirs
on the spot. Sauluva is one of
the best and most reliable
options as it stocks an assort-
ment of Lithuanian handicraft
items made of wood, ceramics,
glass, dried flowers and amber.
Art Galleries Inside the elaborately frescoed Littera bookshop, Vilnius University
Vilnius has an astonishing
range of imaginative gift ideas, lined with a surfeit of galleries Vilnius University complex,
displayed in a number of small and gift shops. Among them, is attractive and has a lively
art galleries such as Galerija Užupio Galerija, a working atmosphere. It is worth visiting
R&A. Quirky paintings, colour- gallery selling metal and enamel as much for the stunning
ful plates designed with old pieces, is the most interesting. frescoed walls and ceiling as it
photographs, vases and curios is for its books.
for shelves and mantelpieces There is a lack of a single,
cover the gallery space. At Books and Music all-encompassing record store
e.k.art in the Old Town, original Vilnius has a large number of in Vilnius. However, Muzikos
artwork and antiques from small, yet very intriguing, book- Bomba in the Europa mall has
the last few centuries, from stores. Most of them sell locally a fair collection of Lithuanian
Lithuania and abroad, are published English-language and international music. It
eclectically displayed reference and coffee- also sells music under its own
in one place. Many table books, original as record label. Fans of jazz, blues
upscale galleries in well as translated local and rock should not forget
Vilnius mount shows and international to visit Thelonious, a quirky
of the work of fiction, along with basement store in the Old
Lithuania’s foremost maps and postcards. Town stacked with records,
painters and Vaga has a whole CDs and old-fashioned hi-fi
sculptors. These upper floor which equipment. The Humanitas
works are regularly has a good collection bookstore has a fine selection
offered for sale. of books in English. of art books in English, as well
The bohemian Colourful painting at an Littera (see p226), the as a small collection of local
district of Užupis is art gallery bookshop within the music CDs.
DIRECTORY
Markets Ramunė Piekautaitė Sauluva Books and Music
Didžioji 20. Tel 231 Literatų 3 & Pilies 21. Tel
Gariūnai Market 2270. ∑ ramunepiek 212 1227. ∑ sauluva.lt Humanitas
Vilnius–Kaunas highway. autaite.com Dominikonų 5. Tel 262
Halės Market Art Galleries 1153. ∑ humanitas.lt
Pylimo & Bazilijonų street Traditional Arts
and Crafts e.k.art Littera
corner.
Didžioji 27. Tel 6052 2222. Vilnius University,
Aukso Avis ∑ ek-art.lt Universiteto 5.
Fashion and
Pilies 38. Tel 250 2602.
Clothing Galerija R&A
Tel 261 0421.
Pranciškonų 8. Tel 6858 Thelonious
Europa Linen & Amber
Konstitucijos 7a. Tel 6169 0080.∑ galerijara.lt Stiklių 12. Tel 212 1076.
Studio
5680. ∑ pceuropa.lt ∑ thelonious.lt
Didžioji 10. Užupio Galerija
Gedimino 9 Tel 210 7279. Užupio 3–l. Tel 231 Vaga
Gedimino 9. Tel 262 9812. ∑ lgstudija.lt 2318. ∑ uzupioart Gedimino 50. Tel 249
∑ go9.lt One of several branches. gallery.com 8393. ∑ vaga.lt
ENTERTAINMENT IN ESTONIA
Estonia has a strikingly dynamic and eclectic part in their social lives. A vast array of rustic-
entertainment scene. The larger towns and style pubs can be found in major towns and
cities, especially Tartu and Pärnu, have a cities, offering a hearty meal, a friendly
crowded cultural calendar as well as a good environment and sometimes vibrant, toe-
nightlife scene. Classical music lovers are tapping folk music. Smaller towns, such as
spoiled for choice all through the year as a Haapsalu, Narva and Kuressaare, have
range of nationwide and local concerts takes numerous bustling nightclubs and bars.
place, given by a fine selection of national A major part of Estonia’s cultural life revolves
and international performers. Saaremaa around folk festivals, with almost every town
Island hosts many classical music festivals hosting some kind of celebration throughout
throughout the summer. Estonians are fond the year. For entertainment in Tallinn, refer
of wining and dining, which plays an integral to pages 346–7.
Classical Music Music Festival, held in June,

and Ballet was established to explore the
Estonia has an outstanding connections between traditional
tradition of classical music and and world music. Other events
recitals are regularly hosted that draw large numbers of local
all over the country. Tartu’s and international musicians are
main concert venue, the the Viljandi Early Music Festival
Vanemuine, stages theatre, and the Saaremaa Opera Days.
classical music performances, For indie music fans, the
ballet, comedy, musicals highlight is the annual Plink
and special shows for Plonk festival in Tartu.
children. Pärnu Concert Eesti Muusika-
Hall (see p102) hosts a festivalid, available
wide range of concerts online, has the details of
A jam session in progress at the Viljandi and music events. all nationwide festivals.
Early Music Festival
Music Festivals Logo of Illusioon Nightlife
Information A number of festivals nightclub, Tartu Tartu has an impressive
A good starting point for news are organized to range of pubs, clubs
about local concerts and promote modern and and bars to choose from. One
events is the nearest tourist traditional music. Vilandi’s of the best-known nightclubs
information office. The Baltic annual Suure-Jaani Music is Atlantis, while the most
Times also offers information Festival is held to comme- exclusive is Illusioon. Another
on arts and entertainment. All morate popular composers favourite is the Eduard Vilde
Estonian towns have their own Mart Saar and Villem Kapp, Lokaal, which has consistently
websites, which usually carry while Muhu Island’s Juu Jääb attracted a huge clientele. For
listings of what is happening
when. The publication In Your
Pocket covers Tallinn, Tartu,
Pärnu and other major
Estonian cities.
Booking and Prices

Bookings for cultural events can
be made at the venue or
through ticket agencies.
Piletilevi, the biggest ticketing
agency, offers both online
booking and ticket purchase.
A number of retail outlets
throughout Estonia also offer
the same service, particularly at
the Selver supermarket chain
and Statoil petrol stations. Brightly illuminated exterior of Tartu’s favourite nightclub, Atlantis
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N E S TO N I A 345
DIRECTORY
Booking and Prices
Piletilevi
∑ piletilevi.ee
Classical Music
and Ballet
Vanemuine
Vanemuise 6, Tartu. Tel 744 0100.
∑ vanemuine.ee
Music Festivals
Eesti Muusikafestivalid
∑ festivals.ee
Performers at one of the many folk festivals held in Estonia
Nightlife
something more laid-back, Cinema
Atlantis
head to Möku, which has a Films are shown in their Narva mnt 2, Tartu. Tel 738 5485.
casual, bohemian feel. original language with Russian ∑ atlantis.ee
Pärnu also has a lively subtitles, though the choice
Eduard Vilde Lokaal
nightlife. Lime Lounge is a of films outside Tallinn is Vallikraavi 4, Tartu.
stylish place for a drink, while decidedly poor. Most Tel 734 3400. ∑ vilde.ee
Postipoiss is a restaurant-cum- reasonably large towns have
pub with frequent live music. a small cinema which shows German Pub
The slickest nightclub in town the latest blockbusters a few Puškina 10, Narva. Tel 359 1548.
∑ germanpub.ee
is Sugar, while Mirage, another weeks after they are shown in
club, is often packed. the capital. Hollywood films Illusioon
In Narva, head for the are regularly shown at Pärnu’s Raatuse 97, Tartu. Tel 742 4341.
German Pub for a drink small Apollo Kino. Tartu’s ∑ illusion.ee
in enjoyable surroundings. trendy Kino Ekraan, located John Bull Pub
Lemon Lounge, the club in in a shopping mall, is part of Lossipark 4, Kuressaare.
Haapsalu, is the place to head the same chain as Forum Tel 453 9988.
for fun weekend night outs. Cinemas Astri.
Lemon Lounge
Kuressaare has a good choice The Black Nights Film Festival Posti 41, Haapsalu. Tel 473 7770.
of quality restaurants, pubs (see p53), celebrated in
and bars. With an attractive November and December, Lime Lounge
outdoor deck, the John Bull travels to Tartu, Viljandi, Narva, Hommiku 17, Pärnu. Tel 449 2190.
∑ limelounge.ee
Pub is cheerful. Jöhvi and Kärdla, while Pärnu
has a small film festival of its Mirage
own in July. Rüütli 40, Pärnu. Tel 447 2404.
Folk Festivals ∑ mirage.ee
Some of the most important Möku
festivals take place in July. Of Magasini 5, Tartu. Tel 2527 1030.
these, the Viljandi Folk Festival
is the biggest, attracting vast Postipoiss
Vee 12, Pärnu. Tel 446 4864.
numbers of dancers, musicians
∑ trahterpostipoiss.ee
and singers each year. Another is
the Hiiu Folk Festival in Hiiumaa Sugar
(see pp94–5), which has a parti- Vee 10, Pärnu. Tel 442 1100.
cularly authentic ambience ∑ sugarclub.ee
created by its rustic setting.
August is also a busy month.
Cinema
The splendid Narva Historic Apollo Kino
Festival stages an enactment of Lai 5, Pärnu. Tel 633 6000.
the Great Northern War (see p37) ∑ apollokino.ee
in Narva. Obinitsa hosts several Forum Cinemas Astri
festivals celebrating Setu culture Tallinna 41, Narva.
(see p124). The White Lady Days, ∑ forumcinemas.ee
held on the August full moon,
is a festival filled with merry- Kino Ekraan
Riia 14, Tartu. Tel 734 3380.
making in the grounds of the Poster for an Estonian-language film,
∑ forumcinemas.ee
castle in Haapsalu (see p92). Sigade Revolutsioon
Rock, Pop, Jazz and Blues

Entertainment in Tallinn Live music lovers are spoiled
Entertainment in Tallinn is astonishingly vibrant. Its classical for choice in Tallinn. Café
music and opera performances are world renowned and a Amigo attracts the biggest
major tourist draw. In recent years, the city has also started to local rock, pop and blues
bands and holds nightly
attract some big international pop artists, although its local performances. Von Krahl Baar
live-music scene is far more enjoyable. A plethora of venues in is one of the best places in the
Tallinn regularly host rock, jazz, blues and alternative music city to experience the local
performances by local bands. The city’s pulsating nightclub alternative music scene, while
scene covers diverse genres, from mainstream pop to the industrial setting of the
Rock Café has a diverse range
underground club music. There is a large choice of places to
of live music, ranging from
enjoy a drink. These usually stay open late into the night and blues to funk. Most of the
range from ultra-chic lounge bars to good old-fashioned, popular international acts that
pint-in-hand pubs. Theatre in Tallinn is generally of a very come to Tallinn play at the
high quality, but is mostly performed in Estonian, except outdoor Song Festival Grounds
during international festivals. (see p82). No99 hosts cosy
jazz concerts on Fridays and
Saturdays, as well as some jazz
Classical Music, Opera acts during the Jazzkaar
and Dance festival (see p52).
Concerts by the Estonian
National Symphony Orchestra,
which are often held in the Pubs and Bars
Estonian Concert Hall (see Tallinn’s Old Town is packed
pp76–7) and the Estonian with bars and pubs of every
National Opera, regularly sell imaginable size and description.
out thanks to their consistently There are several well-acclaimed
high-quality performances and Irish and English-style pubs, such
productions. However, there are as Mad Murphy’s and Scotland
also wonderful chamber and Yard, which are as much
choral concerts held in favoured by expats as by foreign
churches and other visitors. Stylish and
more intimate Old classy lounge bars
A scene from Carlo Gozzi II Corvo at the Town locations are also extremely
Tallinn Linnateater every week, such popular among the
as Niguliste Church city’s well-heeled.
Information (see pp68–9), the Logo of Hell Some of the best
Visitors can check Tallinn In Your House of Blackheads (see Hunt pub venues include the
Pocket, The Baltic Times and book- p70) and the Estonian chic Déjà Vu and the
ing website Piletilevi (see p345) Music Academy. The best of extravagant Lounge 24, which
for upcoming events in the city. both contemporary Estonian as affords spectacular views from
well as international dance the 24th floor of the Radisson Blu
performances are usually Sky Hotel (see p297). There are
Theatre hosted at Kanuti Gildi Saal. also several smaller, cosier pubs
Tallinn has a proud tradition
of theatre and the flagship
Estonian Drama Theatre (see
p76) does a fine job of preser-
ving the national repertoire.
The Tallinn Linnateater specia-
lizes in contemporary work. The
best place for serious theatre
lovers is the Von Krahl Theatre,
the leading avant-garde theatre,
though English translations are
rare. It often stages various
intensely visual multimedia
productions. Russian-speakers
can visit the Russian Drama
Theatre, which puts on a range
of classic and contemporary
Russian theatre. Atmospheric interior of the stylish Déjà Vu lounge bar
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N E S TO N I A 347
Cinema
In Tallinn, films are screened
in their original language with
subtitles. The diversity of
choice has dwin.dled due to
the arrival of the multi-screen
Coca-Cola Plaza and Solaris,
which show the latest
Hollywood blockbusters and
Estonian films. Arthouse and
independent films are
screened at the impressive
Sõprus and Kino Artis. The
Panoramic view of the city from the terrace of Lounge 24, one of Tallinn’s classic lounge bars Black Nights Film Festival
(see p53) is a cinema lover’s
scattered around the Old Town, Vu and Studio, are just good, treat, when the best in world
which are far less frequented simple, fun places and are cinema gets a rare screening
by boisterous visitors. Intimate equally popular with locals and in smaller cinemas.
places, such as Hell Hunt, foreign visitors. For the most
Tallinn’s first real tavern, and the exclusive hangouts head to
Drink Bar, which occasionally Club Privé or Vabank and
features live bands, offer an marvel at the preening clientele.
amiable atmosphere for a chat For showy bartending, clubbers
over a relaxing drink. could try out Venus Club.
Not all nightclubs in Tallinn
will suit all tastes, and some are
Nightclubs downright dubious and as a
The amazing choice and variety result are best avoided. Rather
of nightclubs draws people than wandering into the first
from far and wide to Tallinn. nightclub they come across,
Most of the city’s best clubs are visitors are advised to do
situated in the Old Town, or some research and choose
within walking distance of it. their places of evening Movie posters displayed at the
Many, such as Café Amigo, Déjà entertainment carefully. Coca-Cola Plaza
DIRECTORY
Theatre Rock, Pop, Jazz Hell Hunt Vabank
and Blues Pikk 39. Tel 681 8333. Harju 13.
Russian Drama ∑ hellhunt.ee Tel 660 5299.
Theatre Café Amigo ∑ vabank.ee
Vabaduse väljak 5. Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4. Lounge 24
Tel 641 8246. Tel 680 9380. Radisson Blu Sky Hotel, Venus Club
∑ veneteater.ee ∑ amigo.ee Rävala pst 3. Vana-Viru 14.
Tel 682 3424. Tel 551 9999.
Tallinn Linnateater No99
Lai 23. Sakala 3. Tel 668 8798. Mad Murphy’s Cinema
Tel 665 0800. Mündi 2.
∑ linnateater.ee Rock Café Tel 601 1070. Coca-Cola Plaza
Tartu mnt 80d. Tel 681 ∑ madmurphys.ee Hobujaama 5.
Von Krahl Theatre 0878. ∑ rockcafe.ee Tel 680 0684.
Rataskaevu 10. Scotland Yard ∑ forumcinemas.ee
Tel 626 9090. Von Krahl Baar Mere pst 6e.
∑ vonkrahl.ee Rataskaevu 10/12. Tel 653 5190. Solaris, Kino Artis
Tel 626 9090. ∑ scotlandyard.ee Estonia Pst 9.
Classical Music, ∑ vonkrahl.ee Tel 630 4111.
Dance and Opera Nightclubs ∑ kino.ee
Pubs and Bars Sõprus
Estonian Music Club Privé
Vana-Posti 8.
Academy Déjà Vu Harju 6.
Tel 644 1919.
Rävala 16. Vana Viru 8. Tel 631 0580.
∑ kinosoprus.ee
Tel 667 5700. Tel 5688 4455. ∑ clubprive.ee
∑ ema.edu.ee ∑ dejavu.ee
Studio
Kanuti Gildi Saal Drink Bar Sauna 1.
Pikk 20. Väike-Karja 8. Tel 5894 3261.
Tel 646 4704. ∑ saal.ee Tel 644 9433. ∑ clubstudio.ee
ENTERTAINMENT IN LATVIA
Latvia’s major cultural events are concentrated in clubs every evening. There are also some
in Rīga, although the dynamic festival good rock clubs, in addition to numerous
calendar includes plenty of reasons to explore bars that host live music. The seaside resort
the country beyond the capital. A few of Jūrmala is another hotspot during summer.
concerts and events are scheduled through Here, many bars and clubs open only for the
the year, but visitors need to consult a website tourist season and the Dzintari Concert Hall
or the tourist board as they are not regular. hosts concerts ranging from classical to pop.
The major exception is Liepāja, which has a Valmiera, considered to be the cultural capital
vibrant cultural life and its own symphony of the Vidzeme region, is another lively city.
orchestra. The city is also considered the For entertainment options in Rīga, see
home of Latvian rock bands, and DJs perform pages 350–51.
extra fee. Ticket Service has an Classical Music

even larger network of outlets, and Opera
including at many post offices, The Latvian Music Information
Narvesen stores and Statoil Centre is a good resource for
petrol stations. Tickets can be details of musical performances
booked online and collected across the country. Some of the
from a sales office, or delivered best classical music concerts
to an address within Latvia. Both take place at annual events,
agencies’ websites have such as the International Early
instructions in English, although Music Festival, which includes
most event descriptions are outdoor concerts in Rundāle
only in Latvian. Palace (see pp172–3) and
Bauska Castle (see pp170–71).
In Jūrmala, the Dzintari
Theatre Concert Hall (see p175) stages
Most theatrical performances very high-quality events from
are in Latvian or Russian. June to August, on Saturdays.
One of Rīga’s tourist offices, which has Liepāja Theatre produces a Liepāja’s Holy Trinity Church
details of events in the capital mix of intimate drama and (see p184) hosts organ recitals.
expansive theatrical works. The Liepāja Symphony
Information The building’s restored Art Orchestra specializes in
Tourist information offices in Nouveau and Neo-Classical romantic music and hosts
Rīga provide details of interior is well worth a look. concerts throughout Latvia in
entertainment in the capital There are also occasional major cities such as Rīga,
and the rest of the country, travelling performances at Valmiera and Cēsis.
while regional tourist offices Saulkrasti Open-Air Stage With the exception of special
focus on local areas. Online and at the open-air stage in events, such as the annual
resources include the Latvian Reņķa Gardens, Ventspils. Sigulda Opera Festival, there
Culture Portal, which has a
searchable nationwide
calendar, and Latvijas
Koncerti for classical
music events.
Booking and Prices

Tickets for cultural events are
generally very affordable in
Latvia, and bookings can be
made at the venue or through
a ticket agency. Biļešu
Paradīze has offices in several
of Rīga’s shopping centres and
major venues as well as con-
cert halls and cultural centres
around Latvia. Tickets can be
delivered internationally for an Scene from Uncle Vanya, by Anton Chekhov, performed at Liepāja Theatre
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L AT V I A 349
DIRECTORY
Information
Latvian Culture Portal
∑ culture.lv
Latvijas Koncerti
∑ latvijaskoncerti.lv
Booking and Prices

Biļešu Paradīze
∑ ticketparadise.lv
Ticket Service
∑ ticketservice.lv
The open-air theatre near Rundāle Palace Theatre

are few chances to see opera by Jelgavas Baltie Krekli. Like Liepāja Theatre
outside Rīga. The Latvian its sister club, Četri Balti Krekli in Teātra iela 4. Tel 6340 7811.
National Opera does leave Rīga, it has a strictly-Latvian ∑ liepajasteatris.lv
the capital to perform else- music policy. Saulkrasti Open-Air Stage
where in Latvia, but venues for Ainažu iela 42a.
these shows include cultural
centres in several towns and Jazz Classical Music
Krustpils Open-Air Stage Regular jazz nights are scarce and Opera
near Jēkabpils. outside Rīga, but local tourist
Krustpils Open-Air Stage
offices may provide information.
Tel 6522 1051.
Saulkrasti Jazz Festival is an
Rock, Pop and important event in the calendar, Latvian Music Information
Alternative as is the Sigulda Jazz Festival Centre
The liveliest music scene in Liepāja. Tel 6722 6797. ∑ lmic.lv
outside the capital is in Liepāja, Liepāja Symphony
which boasts a few decent Orchestra
places to see a band. Fire Bar Bars and Clubs
Tel 6348 9272. ∑ lso.lv
features mostly jazz bands, but Most places in Latvia have at
does host rock acts too. It’s a least a couple of bars, some of Rock, Pop and
small place and can get rather which turn into discos on week- Alternative
smoky. Another option is end nights. Some of the better
Fire Bar
Fontaine Palace, which features ones include the Fire Bar and
Stūrmaņu 1, Liepāja. Tel 6348
a mixture of bands and DJs. It Fontaine Palace, both in Liepāja.
9777. ∑ firebar.lv
has a more relaxed bar
downstairs, and a fast-food Fontaine Palace
outlet next door. The summer Dzirnavu iela 4, Liepāja. Tel 6348
sees performances on Liepāja’s 8510. ∑ fontainepalace.lv
open-air stage, Pūt Vējiņi, as Jelgavas Baltie Krekli
well as the Summer Sound Lielajā ielā 19a. Tel 6302 2259.
festival (see p136) in July. ∑ tamitami.lv
Jūrmala hosts plenty of live
Positivus
music in summer. The
∑ positivus.lv
programme at the Dzintari
Concert Hall features popular Pūt Vējiņi
Latvian and Russian musicians. Cēsis Historical Film Festival, held every Peldu iela 57, Liepāja.
The major Russian-language August in Cēsis Castle
pop competition, New Wave, Jazz
held every July, attracts huge Cinema
Saulkrasti Jazz Festival
crowds, while the biggest music State funding for Latvian films ∑ saulkrastijazz.lv
festival, Positivus, takes place has almost dried up and many
near Salacgrīva and features cinemas have closed since Sigulda Jazz Festival
∑ jazzfest.lv
bands from all over the globe independence. Most cinemas
(see p137). The schedule at the tend to screen Hollywood Cinema
open-air stage in Ogre, on the movies with Latvian and Russian
way to Daugavpils, includes subtitles. Cēsis Castle hosts the Cēsis Historical Film Festival
rock and pop acts, while the annual Cēsis Historical Film ∑ filmuskate.cesis.lv
nightlife in Jelgava is enlivened Festival in August.
Entertainment in Rīga established during the Soviet

period continues today.
Since independence Rīga has been working hard to recapture Although the National Opera
its reputation as the cultural capital of the Baltic region. Apart closes in the summer, there are
from world-class performances of opera, ballet and classical special performances in
August. Tours of the building
music, the city also has a thriving live-music scene. Local bands
are also available for a
play diverse genres from jazz to rock, often alongside minimum of 10 people.
international performers. The summer months see a few
festivals offering music and more, but in winter there is usually
Classical Music
some form of cultural event or other taking place regularly. The
city is also renowned for its energetic nightlife. On Friday and There are a number of concert
venues in Rīga, including the
Saturday nights, many Old Town bars buzz with foreign visitors, Dome Cathedral (see p146),
though it is not difficult to find a peaceful place for a drink which hosts regular recitals.
among local people. Clubs, which range from small and hip to Ave Sol hosts chamber and
huge and mainstream, stay open throughout the night. choral music performances.
The Latvian Philharmonic
Orchestra performs at the Great
Information on a range of productions, Guild (see p149), while chamber
Most hotels in Rīga stock an from traditional to experi- music is played at the Small
assortment of free pocket-sized mental. Other options include Guild across the road. Spīķeri
magazines containing listings the New Rīga Theatre and Concert Hall, located in
and other information, of which the Russian Drama Theatre. the warehouses next to
the best is RigaNOW! The afford- Rīga’s most important theatre Rīga’s Central Market, is a
ably priced and comprehensive festival is Homo Novus, held contemporary venue for
bi-monthly Rīga In Your Pocket in September, usually every classical music and is the
is available to browse or alternate year. It concentrates home of the Sinfonietta Rīga
download as a PDF from the on cutting-edge experimental chamber orchestra.
company’s website. The Latvian theatre and dance.
Culture Portal (see p349) website
is also helpful. Rock, Pop and
Opera and Ballet Alternative
Since the 18th century, Rīga has Major international artists
Theatre maintained a strong tradition of perform at the Arēna Rīga,
Theatre performances are opera and ballet. The Latvian while local bands play at a host
mainly in Latvian or Russian, National Opera has an of smaller venues. Kaļķu Vārti
making them of limited interest imposing Neo-Classical building is noted for booking some of
to most visitors. The Latvian with a Baroque interior. It is the country’s top artists. Depo
National Theatre, housed in the venue for world-class features alternative music
a Neo-Classical building, has a performances that are usually from ska to metal and Sapņu
significant place in Latvian in their original language with Fabrika offers a range of diverse
history, as independence was subtitles in Latvian and English. genres from world music to
declared here on 18 November The building that houses the rock. Četri Balti Krekli offers
1918. The Dailes Theatre, Latvian National Opera isalso Latvian music.
directed by Eduards Smiļğis home to the Rīga Ballet. The
(1886–1966) for 40 years, puts strong ballet tradition
Jazz and Blues
The best blues venue in the
city is Moonshine, which
has live music on weekend
evenings. It also serves
surprisingly good food,
while iconic American images
adorn the wall and a converted
Cadillac overlooks the square.
The smaller-scale Hamlets
club hosts jazz performances.
Rīgas Ritmi (Rīga’s Rhythms)
organizes concerts featuring
local and international jazz,
blues and world musicians
at various venues throughout
A lavishly decorated hall in the Latvian National Theatre the year.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L AT V I A 351
Bars and Clubs Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta Casinos

With a wide range of bars and and Studio 69, feature DJs on Although there are numerous
clubs, Rīga has a swinging the weekend, while Folkklubs establishments that describe
nightlife. Balzambārs is a Ala offers a mix of folk bands themselves as casinos, most
popular place to try various and more traditional music, plus provide only slot machines.
cocktails. Skyline Bar in the tasty traditional food too. Establishments with gaming
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija (see Rīga’s gay scene remains tables include the Olympic
p301) is one of the favourite bars low-profile. XXL, the only well- Voodoo Casino in the Radisson
in town. I Love You attracts a advertised gay club, has live Blu Hotel Latvija (see p301) and
youthful local crowd, while shows on Friday and Saturday the Royal Casino. It is compul-
Paddy Whelan’s Irish pub is nights. Golden, a gay-friendly sory to register at casinos, so
a favourite among expats. bar, plays house music and you must be sure to carry valid
The best-known nightclubs, offers a warm ambience. photo ID.
Cinema
There are several multi-screen
cinemas in Rīga, mostly offer-
ing Hollywood films. The
largest is the Coca-Cola
Forum, which has 14 halls and
several cafés. Splendid Palace,
the city’s first cinema house,
has been renovated and also
shows non-Hollywood films.
K Suns is the best place for art-
Sweeping view of Rīga from the Skyline Bar, Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija house cinema.
DIRECTORY
Theatre Spīķeri Concert Hall Moonshine Studio 69
Maskavas iela 4/1. Kaļķu iela 12. Terbatas 73.
Dailes Theatre Tel 6721 5018. Tel 6722 2203. Tel 6750 6030.
Brīvības iela 75. ∑ moonshineriga.lv ∑ info.studio69.lv
∑ sinfoniettariga.lv
Tel 6727 0463.
∑ dailesteatris.lv Rīgas Ritmi XXL
Rock, Pop and ∑ rigasritmi.lv Kalniņa iela 4.
Latvian National Alternative Tel 6728 2276.
Theatre
Arēna Rīga
Bars and Clubs ∑ xxl.lv
Kronvalda bulvāris 2.
Skanstes iela 21. Tel 6738 Balzambārs
Tel 6700 6337.
8200. ∑ arenariga.com
Casinos
∑ teatris.lv Torņa iela 4. Tel 6721 4494.
Četri Balti Krekli Folkklubs Ala Olympic Voodoo
New Rīga Theatre Casino
Vecpilsētas iela 12. Tel Peldu iela 19. Tel 2779
Lāčplēša iela 25. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
6721 3885. ∑ krekli.lv 6914. ∑ folkklubs.lv
Tel 6728 0765. ∑ jrt.lv Elizabetes iela 55.
Depo Golden Tel 6782 8777.
Russian Drama
Vaļņu iela 32. Ģertrūdes iela 33–35.
Theatre Royal Casino
Tel 6721 1374. Tel 2550 5050.
Kaļķu iela 16. Tērbatas iela 73.
∑ klubsdepo.lv ∑ mygoldenclub.com
Tel 6722 4660. Tel 6709 2299.
∑ trd.lv Kaļķu Vārti I Love You
Kaļķu iela 11a. Aldaru iela 9. Tel 6722 Cinema
Opera and Ballet Tel 6722 4576. 5304. ∑ iloveyou.lv
Coca-Cola Forum
∑ kalkuvarti.lv Paddy Whelan’s
Latvian National Janvara iela 8.
Opera Sapņu Fabrika Grēcinieku iela 4. Tel 6721 ∑ forumcinemas.lv
Aspāzijas bulvāris 3. Lāčplēša 101. 0150. ∑ pub.lv
K Suns
Tel 6707 3777. Tel 2201 1811. Pulkvedim Neviens Elizabetes iela 83–85.
∑ opera.lv ∑ sapnufabrika.lv Neraksta ∑ kinogalerija.lv
Peldu iela 26–28. Tel 6721
Classical Music Jazz & Blues 3886. ∑ pulkvedis.lv Splendid Palace
Elizabetes iela 61.
Ave Sol Hamlets Skyline Bar ∑ splendidpalace.lv
Citadeles iela 7. Jāņa sēta 5. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
Tel 6718 1637. Tel 6722 9938. Elizabetes iela 55.
∑ avesol.riga.lv ∑ hamlets.lv Tel 6777 2222.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
LITHUANIA
Lithuania offers its visitors a wide variety of the summer solstice. Lively pop festivals
entertainment, with something for everybody. sometimes brighten up summer resorts such
Most cities have a strong cultural tradition. as Palanga and Juodkrantė. Outside Vilnius the
Panevėžys has a popular drama theatre, while entertainment options tend to be limited,
the residents of Klaipėda are more inspired by although Klaipėda provides some atmospheric
music, embracing both improvised and venues for live music. Baroque and chamber
traditional jazz, blues and operetta. Trakai and music concerts are regularly performed
Kernavė provide scenic backdrops to summer throughout the year in many of Lithuania’s
events, including medieval festivals of archery churches. For entertainment options in Vilnius
and swordfighting and mystical celebrations of see pages 354–5.
Information
The English-language In Your
Pocket guides, found in hotels,
at newsstands and online, cover
restaurants, hotels, shopping
and nightlife in most of
Lithuania’s livelier towns. The
official websites of Lithuanian
Tourism and Tourism Vilnius
are also useful resources.
Lithuania has a large number
of visitor information centres Imposing exterior of the Klaipėda State Drama Theatre in Klaipėda
with English-speaking staff and
English-language leaflets, book- theatre culture, although an classical music recitals that
lets and up-to-date local informa- equal passion for theatre exists often have no entry charges.
tion. All of Lithuania’s towns and outside the city. Zapyškis Church (see p265),
cities have their own dedicated The Klaipėda State Drama outside Kaunas, is a particularly
websites, which usually contain Theatre, which dates from atmospheric venue in
schedules and information on 1819, is one of the oldest the countryside.
culture and events. functioning theatres in On the coast, the Klaipėda
Lithuania and the most famous State Music Theatre holds a
outside Vilnius. In Panevėžys, wide array of classical music
Booking and Prices the Juozo Miltinio Drama concerts, opera and other
The booking service Bilietai Theatre is named after legen- performances. Panevėžys
LT has kiosks in most concert dary stage actor and director Civic Art Gallery (see p268)
venues and shopping centres Juozas Miltinis (1907–94), who and Kėdainiai’s Multicultural
in major cities, where tickets taught actors to reject Centre (see p265) also hold
can be bought with credit conservatism and to draw regular concerts.
cards or cash. Tickets can also on their own life experiences
be booked by telephone or while acting.
through a website and can be
collected from a sales office,
or delivered to any address in Classical Music
Lithuania. Prices usually vary Kaunas has several concert
anywhere between 10 and halls that feature music
50 euros per person. regularly. The Kaunas State
Musical Theatre and the Great
Hall of Vytauto Didžiojo
Theatre University are among the
Lithuanian theatre developed preferred venues, but the
during the period of indepen- Kaunas City Symphony
dence between the world Orchestra and Kaunas State
wars, producing young and Choir also perform at less
talented playwrights such as formal venues including the
Balys Sruoga and Kazys Binkis. Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery Beautiful exterior of the Kaunas State
Vilnius has a particularly strong (see p264). Some churches host Musical Theatre
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I T H UA N I A 353
Music Festivals
Several music festivals have
grown in popularity over
the years. The magnificent
Baroque Pažaislis Monastery
complex (see p265), near Kaunas,
forms the backdrop to the
annual Pažaislis Music Festival.
The Edvard Grieg and M K
Čiurlionis Festival, hosted in
Kaunas each spring, features
classical music concerts. The
Muzikinis Pajūris (Musical
Seaside) festival of opera and
symphony takes place every
summer in Klaipėda.
Nightlife
Club life is not limited to the
capital city. Klaipėda has an
increasingly lively and varied
nightlife. A popular place for
dancing and expertly mixed
cocktails in an Old Town attic
is Mr. Bond. Newer venues are
gradually taking the place of
the duller bars and discos in and
around the Old Town. They offer
casinos, concerts and restaurants,
besides dance floors. Klaipėda’s
Kanto Street also has some People enjoying at a brightly lit nightclub in Vilnius
spirited bars full of fun and revelry.
Kaunas has a mix of low-key Jazz, Blues and Folk Music Cinema
bars such as BO in the Old Town Jazz features prominently in Movies screened in Lithuania
and the swinging Nautilus the country’s cultural scene. are shown in their original
Centre, a club frequented by the Among the best jazz festivals is language, which means that
young. The other party-town in Kaunas Jazz (see p212). Kurpiai they can be enjoyed by locals
Lithuania is the coastal resort of in Klaipėda also hosts jazz and visitors. Only one modern
Palanga, where in summer the and blues performances. Folk multiplex, the Forum Cinemas,
entire area around Basanavičiaus music features at the Days of exists in both Vilnius and
gatvė (street) turns into a Live Archaeology amid the Kaunas. However, other cities
pulsating open-air disco from ancient hills forts of Kernavė have decent cinemas, such as
dusk virtually until dawn. (see p258), in July. Cinamon in Klaipėda.
DIRECTORY
Information Klaipėda State Drama Music Festivals Nautilus Centre
Theatre Savanorių 124, Kaunas.
Lithuanian Tourism Teatro 2. Tel (46) 314 464. Edvard Grieg and M K Tel (37) 338 228.
∑ lithuania.travel ∑ kldt.lt
Čiurlionis Festival
∑ kaunofilharmonija.lt
Tourism Vilnius Jazz, Blues and
∑ vilnius-tourism.lt Classical Music Muzikinis Pajūris Folk Music
∑ klaipedosmuzikinis.lt
Booking and Great Hall Kurpiai
Pažaislis Music
Prices S Daukanto 28, Kaunas. Festival Kurpių 1a, Klaipėda.
Tel (37) 327 869. ∑ pazaislis.lt
Bilietai LT ∑ bilietai.lt Tel (46) 410 555.
Kaunas State Musical
Nightlife Cinema
Theatre Theatre
Laisvės alėja 91, Kaunas. BO
Juozo Miltinio Drama Cinamon
Tel (37) 227 113. Muitinės 9-1, Kaunas.
Theatre ∑ cinema.lt
Laisvės 5, Panevėžys. Klaipėda State Music Mr. Bond
Tel (45) 584 614. Theatre Žvejų 10, Klaipėda. Forum Cinemas
∑ miltinio-teatras.lt Danės 19. Tel (46) 397 404. Tel 6086 1007. ∑ forumcinemas.lt
Entertainment in Vilnius St Casimir (see p236). On week-

days during term time, students
The range of entertainment on offer in Vilnius has changed and professors at the Lithuanian
rapidly in recent years. Trendy clubs and lounge bars have Academy of Music often give
sprung up, but, at the same time, there has been a resurgence free-of-charge recitals at
different venues in the city.
of traditional folk singing and dancing. Sutartinės, music with
The standard of opera and
rural roots, helped sustain national identity through the ballet is generally high in Vilnius,
periods of occupation and today it has made a comeback in although the repertoire is fairly
folk-themed restaurants. Classical music was promoted conservative. In addition to
during the Soviet period, but it was also significant in the classical performances, the
20th-century national revivals. Classical music, opera and innovative choreography of the
Anželika Cholina Dance Theatre
ballet performances in Vilnius are excellent. Live music is attracts big audiences and is very
played in several key venues frequented by a small but popular among locals and
enthusiastic and faithful crowd. Tourist information points visitors. The famous National
provide news on most cultural events. Opera & Ballet Theatre is funded
by Lithuania’s Ministry of Culture.
Tickets for its performances often
sell out quickly and it is advisable
to visit the ticket office to check
on availability.
Folk Music
Lithuania’s folk music can be
heard in folk-themed restau-
rants, which are as popular with
locals as they are with visitors.
For an authentic experience,
A scene from the play Three Sisters at the State Small Theatre of Vilnius enjoy the music with a tradi-
tional meal of meat-and-
Information provide pre-recorded English potatoes and Lithuanian beer
Vilnius In Your Pocket, which translations for some perform- at venues such as the rustic
covers the whole spectrum of ances, which can be heard Fort Dvaras (see p326) or the
restaurants, entertainment and using headphones. atmospheric Marceliukės Klėtis.
shopping, as well as upcoming Folk festivals are often played
events, is available at numerous out in the courtyards and halls
shops and kiosks and most of Classical Music, Opera of Vilnius University (see pp224–
the city’s hotels. Brochures and and Ballet 5), or in more low-key spots
leaflets about cultural events can Vilnius has a good classical music such as the Teachers’ House.
be found at the capital’s tourist scene. Both the opulent National
information centres. Posters are Philharmonic and the contemp-
another source of information. orary Congress Palace hold Rock, Blues and Pop
Tickets for concerts, opera, superb concerts. Chamber music Several outstanding Lithuanian
ballet and plays can be pur- concerts are often held at rock and pop performers play
chased at the appropriate the atmospheric Church of regularly at atmospheric venues
venue or booking kiosks. Tickets St Catherine (see p241) and, such as Tamsta Club, Brodvėjus
for all major events in Lithuania occasionally, at the Church of and the Forum Palace. Names
can be bought online from
Bilietai LT.
Theatre
The residents of Vilnius have a
passion for theatre. Productions
by two of the country’s most
outstanding directors, Oskaras
Koršunovas and Eimuntas
Nekrošius, are highly
recommended. The Lithuanian
National Drama Theatre and
the more avant-garde State
Small Theatre of Vilnius A classical music concert in progress at the Congress Palace
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I T H UA N I A 355
Nightlife
Though a little quieter than
many other European capitals,
Vilnius has an abundance of
bars and clubs featuring a
variety of music genres and
both local and international DJs.
The uproarious Bix is for heavy
metal fans, while Mojo Lounge,
hosting parties of all kinds in
the Old Town, attracts the best
DJs. A little more central are
Paparazzi, popular for its
friendly atmosphere and wide
range of cocktails, and Pabo
Latino, a nightclub specializing
in Latin rhythms. Bands often
Live band playing at the Tamsta Club in the Old Town play live at Aula.
to look out for include the jazz was associated with

punky Biplan, the singer and freedom. The birth of Lithuania’s Cinema
songwriter Andrius Mamontovas modern jazz scene came in Vilnius has two modern
and the more soulful Jurga. 1961, at a recital by 17-year-old multiplex cinemas, both oper-
International artistes on tour pianist Vyacheslav Ganelin at ated by Forum Cinemas (see
tend to play at the modern the Academy of Music, during p353). One of them is housed
Siemens Arena or the which the audience was in the Coca-Cola Plaza, while
less pretentious Utenos mesmerized. Ganelin still makes the other is in the Akropolis
Entertainment Centre, which rare appearances in Vilnius, shopping centre. Films from
doubles as an ice rink. often with saxophonist Petras other countries are usually
Vyšniauskas. Another big name screened in their original
to look out for is singer-flautist language with Lithuanian sub-
Jazz Neda Malūnavičiūtė. titles. Lithuanian films do not
With a small but fanatical The best jazz in town is usually have English subtitles.
following, jazz forms an inex- showcased at the Vilnius Jazz Art-house cinemas have all but
tricable part of the Lithuanian festival, which is held in disappeared. A rare survivor,
lifestyle. During the Soviet era, October (see p213). however, is Skalvija.
DIRECTORY
Information Congress Palace Rock, Blues Jazz
Vilniaus 6–14. and Pop
Bilietai LT Tel 261 8828.
Vilnius Jazz
∑ bilietai.lt Brodvėjus ∑ vilniusjazz.lt
∑ lvso.lt
Vokiečių 4.
Theatre National Opera & Tel 210 7208. Nightlife
Ballet Theatre ∑ brodvejus.lt
Lithuanian National Aula
Vienuolio 1.
Drama Theatre Forum Palace Pilies 11. Tel 268 7173.
Gedimino 4. Tel 262 0727.
Konstitucijos 26.
Tel 262 1593. ∑ opera.lt Bix
Tel 263 6666.
∑ teatras.lt Etmonų 6. Tel 262 7791.
National Philharmonic ∑ forumpalace.lt
State Small Theatre Aušros vartų 5. Mojo Lounge
Siemens Arena
of Vilnius Tel 266 5216. Vokiečių 2.
Ozo 14.
Gedimino 22. ∑ filharmonija.lt Tel 6576 6500.
Tel 249 9869. Tel 247 7576.
∑ vmt.lt ∑ siemens-arena.lt Pablo Latino
Folk Music Trakų 3. Tel 6576 6500.
Tamsta Club
Classical Music, Marceliukės Klėtis A Strazdelio 1. Paparazzi
Opera and Ballet Tuskulėnų gatvė 35. Tel 212 4498. Totorių 3. Tel 212 0135.
Tel 5272 5087. ∑ tamstaclub.lt
Anželika Cholina
Cinema
Dance Theatre Teachers’ House Utenos
Šimulionio 4–103. Vilniaus 39. Entertainment Centre Skalvija
Tel 6883 4181. Tel 262 3514. Ąžuolyno 9. A Goštauto 2–15.
∑ ach.lt ∑ kultura.lt Tel 242 4444. ∑ skalvija.lt
356 TRAVELLERS' NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND

SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Bereft of dramatic peaks and raging rivers, the discover the region on horseback are endless,
Baltic States nevertheless abound with subtle with excursions for both novices and experi-
charms and this has helped develop rural enced riders. Winter changes the landscape,
tourism in the three countries. Exploring the and skiing, ice-skating, snowboarding and
lakes and rivers allows the scenery to unfold at snowmobiling take over. For visitors who
a leisurely pace, while back on land, the forests simply want to relax, the region has a series
are perfect for rambling. Fishing, berry- and of stylish spa resorts which draw on decades of
mushroom-picking and bird-watching are tradition. Brewery tours tempt those impressed
among the most popular activities and can by local beer. However, the infrastructure varies
easily be arranged by reputable tour operators. from region to region and it is best to contact a
The opportunities for those who wish to reputable tour operator.
Information Tourism, Latvia‘s Country

In the Baltic States, most tourist Holidays (Lauku ceļotājs) and
information centres have lists of the Lithuanian Countryside
both state-run and private tour Tourism Association.
operators, who organize a
variety of outdoor activities
depending on the time of year. Bird-Watching
Most companies have their own Located on major migration
dedicated websites (see p361). routes, with a high proportion
of fish-rich wetlands and little
intensive farming, the Baltic
Rural Tourism States are an ideal destination
The development of rural for bird-watchers. Ducks, geese,
tourism as an organized activity swans, corncrakes, bitterns,
began in the mid-1990s with common coots and white storks
support from the Ministry of are easily spotted. Bird-watching tower near Lake
Agriculture, along with other It has been estimated that Lubans, Latvia
organizations. It has now around 50 million waterfowl,
become one of the biggest including most of the world’s best in October at Põõsaspea
tourist attractions in the Baltic tundra swans and barnacle Cape, close to Haapsalu. Several
region, and it is often advisable geese, visit Estonia’s coastal tour operators, including
to arrange for accommodation wetlands every spring. The peak Estonian Nature Tours, arrange
well in advance. Bookings can time for bird-watching is the bird-watching trips. For further
be made through the various beginning of May at sites such as information contact Estonian
rural tourism associations (see Matsalu National Park (see p93). Ornithological Society.
p295), such as Estonian Rural The autumn migration is at its Good bird-watching spots in
Latvia include Gauja National
Park (see pp190–93) and Lake
Lubans (see p202). The Engure
Ornithological Centre, situated
in Lake Engure (see p176), has
been monitoring and
protecting duck populations
since 1958. The Latvian Birding
website keeps up-to-date lists
of sightings in the country.
Over 330 species of birds can
be spotted in Lithuania, including
great snipes, white-tailed eagles,
ferruginous ducks, corncrakes
and aquatic warblers, among
which are endangered species
that breed in the country. The
Latvia’s Ķemeri National Park, home to a large number of birds main migration route follows the
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 357
Among the Lithuanian

companies offering walking
trips, the Nemunas Tour is one
of the most popular.
Cycling
The relatively flat terrain and
breathtaking scenery of the Baltic
States makes cycling a pleasant
way to get around. However,
mountain bikers will find little to
challenge their skills. It is not all
smooth riding, though, as some
roads are in poor condition. A
Cyclists on a winding path in Gauja National Park, Latvia popular international route is the
EuroVelo route 10, which runs
coast and crosses the Curonian Latvia’s Gauja National Park is along the north of Estonia
Spit, and a particularly good good for walking, particularly through Tallinn, across to the
spot is the Vente Horn on the along the well-marked Līgatne islands of Hiiumaa and Saaremaa
tip of the Nemunas Delta Nature Trail (see p193). There are via ferry, on to Rīga and then
National Park (see p287). The also numerous short trails further south to Klaipėda.
biggest draws are the migra- in the Tērvete Nature Park Bicycle rental is easy in
tions in spring and autumn, (see p171) and visitors Estonia and Latvia, while
mainly between September and looking for hills might in Lithuania there are hire
early October. Early spring is a head for the Latgale outlets in the larger towns
good time to observe seabirds, Uplands (see p202). Tour and cities. A good point
owls, woodpeckers and grouse, companies, such as Eži, of contact for all three
while the largest number of organize walking trips in countries is BaltiCCycle, a
species can be spotted during Valmiera (see p194). non-profit organization
the breeding season between Lithuania has almost 300 which provides details of
late May and early June. hiking trails, of which organized tours, bicycle
The Lithuanian Society of around 170 are in rental and self-guided
Ornithologists also arranges regional or national A cycle sign at cycling. It is also
bird-watching tours. parks. Dzūkija National Vaide, Latvia possible to hire a bike
Park (see p260) is a in one Baltic country
favourite and some of its paths and return it in another.
Hiking and Trekking and facilities have been In Estonia, popular areas for
Despite their lack of hilly terrain, especially adapted for disabled cycling include Lahemaa
the Baltic States attract walkers visitors. Short, well-signposted National Park and the islands
with their extensive forests, walks include the 5-km (3-mile) of Muhu (see p95), Saaremaa
attractive rivers, lakes and rural long Šeirė Nature Trail and the and Hiiumaa. City Bike is a
calm. The relatively high chance route through the Čepkelių bog notable organization that
of spotting wildlife such as roe from the park’s headquarters. provides cycling tours and
deer, wild boar, moose and rental services in Estonia.
wolves also draws a number of Easy rides in Latvia include
walkers here. Each country the route from Rīga to Jūrmala
has a good selection of well- (see pp174–5), while the best
marked trails with campsites opportunity for mountain
and guesthouses along the biking is in the Gauja Valley
way, and local tourist offices near Sigulda (see p192). There
can suggest routes or arrange are marked biking routes
guides for visitors. around Kuldīga (see p183) and
In Estonia, Lahemaa National from Cēsis (see p192–3) to
Park (see pp110–11) has trails Valmiera; Eži arranges trips in
of varying lengths covering a the latter area.
diverse terrain. There are also The Lithuanian section of the
pleasant routes surrounding Baltic Coast route includes an
Tartu (see pp118–19) and on the attractive stretch between
islands of Saaremaa (see pp96–7) Palanga (see p286) and Klaipėda
and Hiiumaa (see pp94–5). (see pp284–5). There is also a
A more unusual activity is marked route along the coast
bog-walking in Soomaa The rolling hills of Dzukija National Park, of the Curonian Lagoon to
National Park (see pp104–5). Lithuania Nemunas Delta National Park.
tench and grayling. Fishing

permits are required throughout
the region, and additional
licences are required for some
areas. Major tour operators can
provide or assist visitors in
obtaining the required permits.
Estonia’s long coastline offers
numerous angling opportunities.
Inland, several companies
organize fishing trips to Lake
Peipsi (see p127) and Lahemaa
National Park. A good starting
point is Estfly, a fishing club
located in Kunda midway
between Tallinn and Narva,
which issues permits that can
Riders practising their equestrian skills, Pärnu, Estonia otherwise be difficult to arrange.
In Latvia, Lake Engure and Lake
Horse-Riding In Latvia, tourist attractions Kaņieris in Ķemeri National Park
Horses are a common sight offering horse-riding include (see p174) are particularly good
in the rural areas of the Baltic the Līgatne Nature Trail. Visitors for pike. There are also many
States, especially in Latvia’s interested in emotional therapy other suitable lakes in the Latgale
Latgale region, where traditional can visit Zirgzandales near and Vidzeme regions, and fish
ploughing methods still persist Rīga. Lietuvos Žirgynas, farms around the country. The
alongside mechanized farming. Lithuania’s oldest and biggest Latvian Anglers Association can
Horses can be hired at most horse-breeding farm, about provide information on fishing
horse-breeding farms; some 10 km (6 miles) north of Vilnius, sites, and permits are usually easy
farms also offer instruction. breeds about 300 Lithuanian to obtain.
It may be possible to hire Žemaitukas, Arabic and The key spots in Lithuania
carriages, traps and even horse- Trakehner horses and Shetland are in the east of the country,
drawn sleighs during winter. ponies and has the country's particularly near Ignalina in the
The sandy tracks of Lahemaa largest indoor riding hall. Aukštaitija National Park (see
National Park are popular for pp270–71) and Molėtai Lakelands
horse-riding in Estonia. One (see p269), and in the south. The
unusual option is the Tihuse Fishing Nemunas river is also popular,
Riding Farm on the island of Fishing is a very popular year- particularly around the town of
Muhu, where guests can also round activity in the Baltic Rusnė, as is the Curonian Spit
participate in ploughing fields States. In winter, hardy local (see pp288–9). Most fishing tackle
with the help of horses. Visitors people trek out onto frozen shops and park offices sell
to the Tori Stud Farm (see p105), lakes and cut holes in the ice. licences; otherwise they are
in Estonia, can enjoy a tour of the Common fish include perch, available from the Lithuanian
farm in a horse-drawn carriage. brown trout, pike, carp, bream, Fishing Services.
Fishermen angling from the banks of the Lielupe river in Jelgava, Latvia
Mushroom- and
Berry-Picking
Picking berries in spring and
mushrooms during autumn
are popular activities in the
Baltic States. In fact, mush-
rooms are often a source of
income in rural areas.
Often, the best way to
arrange mushroom- and berry-
picking is to ask your hotel or
guesthouse to organize it. It is
advisable to take a local along
for guidance on both where
to look and which varieties of
mushroom are edible and tasty.
The Estonian Rural Tourism Canoeing in Soomaa National Park, Estonia
website has details of farms
which can offer mushroom- skiing in Latvia is Žagarkalns, Water Activities
and berry-picking. The Džukija located close to Cēsis, but there With hundreds of rivers and
and Aukštaitija national parks are numerous other options lakes, and an extensive coastline,
offer some of the best listed in the Country Holidays the Baltic States offer ample
opportunities. Visitors must website (see p295). Visitors opportunities for canoeing,
bear in mind that it is usually seeking adventure should try kayaking, windsurfing and
illegal to pick the cranberries the bobsleigh run in Sigulda rafting. The lack of any serious
which grow on peat bogs. operated by Taxi Bob. In rapids may deter keen white-
Berry-picking with Vaskna Lithuania, Ignalina is a favoured water enthusiasts, but it is perfect
Turismitalu near Võru also destination for skiers. The for leisurely river excursions.
teaches visitors how to make Lithuanian Winter Sports Canoeing is one of the best
traditional alcoholic Christmas Centre is one of several options ways to explore the wilderness
drinks. The website of in the area, with four downhill of Soomaa National Park in
Countryside Tourism of pistes, cross-country skiing and Estonia, where visitors can also
Lithuania has useful infor- a skating rink. For ice-skating on try to build haabjas (longboats).
mation on mushroom- frozen lakes, including Trakai, A number of water activities are
and berry-picking. visitors may contact Kempingas provided by Vesipapp, Surf
Slėnyje. Camping Villa Paradise and Reimann Retked.
Ventainė regularly organizes Of the Baltic countries, Latvia
Winter Sports snowmobiling and ice-fishing has the most developed water
With long winters usually on the Curonian Lagoon. tourism and the Gauja river is a
providing several months popular spot. Specialist
of snow coverage, it is not operator Campo offers
surprising that cross-country a range of river trips
skiing is popular. What may be and Pāvilosta Marina
more unexpected is the number arranges catamaran
of downhill ski runs in a region sailing lessons. In
where the highest point is just Lithuania, the Aukštaitija
about 318 m (1,043 ft) above region, with almost
sea level. Although the Baltic 300 lakes linked by
States do not attract hardcore waterways, allows
skiers and snowboarders, there tour companies to
are adequate opportunities for create multi-day sailing
those who enjoy the sport. trips. Elsewhere, the
In Estonia, some of the best Trakai National Sports
skiing, snowboarding, and Health Centre
snowmobiling, snowtubing and offers kayaking,
ski-jumping are found around canoeing, yachting and
Otepää (see p122), such as diving. Similarly, the
at Kuutsemäe Resort. Cross- Zarasai Water Sports
country skiing is also possible at Centre offers water-
the Soomaa National Park. skiing and windsurfing.
Details for winter activities are Klaipėda’s Oktopusas
listed on the Estonian Rural diving centre arranges
Tourism website (see p295). Enthusiasts enjoying skiing in Kuutsemäe, dives in lakes and
A premier spot for downhill Otepää, Estonia the Baltic Sea.
era, drawing visitors from across

the former Soviet Union for relax-
ation or medical treatment. There
was a decline in the spa industry
after independence. However,
since then new spa hotels have
opened and older ones have been
renovated. Treatments are cheaper
than in Western Europe, and
there are special deals in winter.
There are several spa hotels
on the Estonian islands and
also establishments within, and
close to, the capital, such as the
Kalev Spa, a huge facility on
the edge of the Old Town, and
Meriton Spa at the Park
Latvian ice-hockey player in action in an IIHF World Championship match Inn hotel. The Estonian Spa
Association represents several
Spectator Sports members of the Estonian Golf of the country’s spas.
The Baltic States are among the Association. The Estonian Golf The main spot for a spa break
few parts of Europe where & Country Club is seeking to be in Latvia is Jūrmala, a string
football is not the dominant a part of the PGA Tour. There are of seaside towns providing
spectator sport. The region’s most 18-hole courses in Otepää, everything from lively bars to
enthusiastic football fans are the Saaremaa and Tallinn, the last of secluded beaches. Another
Estonians, and their national which is well maintained. good choice is the Spa Hotel
team has improved in recent The premier course in Latvia is Ezeri (see p303).
years. However, in Estonia, the at the Ozo Golf Club on Rīga’s In Lithuania, the best spas
biggest of the stadium sports is outskirts, while the country’s can be found in Druskininkai
basketball and major fixtures can other 18-hole course is Saliena, (see p259), one of which is
be seen at the Kalev Stadium. located between Rīga and Spa Vilnius. Palanga is also a
In Latvia, the most popular Jūrmala. Golf clubs in Lithuania popular spa destination.
sport is ice hockey, particularly with 18-hole courses include
since the national team beat Sostinių and Europos Centro.
Russia in the 2000 Ice Hockey There are also plans to open a Brewery Tours
Championships. Many of the best golf complex near Klaipėda, Beer brewing has a celebrated
players are members of overseas featuring an additional spa hotel. history in the Baltic States,
teams, making domestic games a and there are several brewery
little lacklustre, but support is tours available in the region.
enthusiastic for international Spa Breaks Try A Le Coq Brewery in
games at the Arena Rīga. Visitors There have been health resorts in Estonia or the Užavas or
to Daugavpils will find the city in the Baltic States since the 19th Valmiermuižas facilities in
the thrall of speedway racing. century, although there is evi- Latvia. Lithuania has the best
Enthusiasts should not miss a dence of mud and spring water choice of breweries open to
visit to the Lokomotive Stadium. being used in folk medicine the public, including Utenos,
The most popular spectator much earlier. The resorts were Švyturys, Volfas Engelman,
sport in Lithuania is basketball. hugely popular during the Soviet Kalnapilis and Rinkuškiai.
The national team has won a
bronze medal at the Olympic
Games three times and was the
European champion in 2003.
Žalgiris Kaunas and Lietuvos
Rytas Vilnius are the leading
domestic teams. To watch
players practising, visit the
Siemens Arena.
Golf
Soviet Russians were not keen
on golf, so the sport is relatively
new to the region and there are
few good courses. In Estonia, a
number of golf clubs are Entrance to the Spa Vilnius, one of the best spas in Druskininkai, Lithuania
DIRECTORY
Bird-Watching Fishing Pāvilosta Marina Saliena
Ostmalas 4, Pāvilosta, Egļuciems, Babītes
Engure Estfly Pagasts, Latvia. Tel 716
Latvia. Tel 2748 0131.
Ornithological Centre Mäe 22–21, Kunda. 0300. ∑ capitals.lt
∑ pavilostamarina.lv
Tel 2847 4420. Tel 5645 2789. Sostinių
∑ eedp.lv ∑ estfly.com Reimann Retked
Pipiriškių k, Pastrėvio sen,
Tel 511 4099.
Estonian Nature Latvian Anglers Lithuania. Tel 6199 9999.
∑ retked.ee
Tours Association ∑ kalevspa.ee
Linnuse tee 1, Lāčplēša 23–17. Tel 2928 Surf Paradise
Läänemaa. 5934. ∑ dzivaisudens.lv Ristna, Hiiumaa, Estonia. Spa Breaks
∑ paap.ee
Tel 477 8214. Lithuanian Fishing Estonian Spa
∑ naturetours.ee Services Trakai National Sports Association
Estonian Taikos 43, Neringa. and Health Centre Sadama 9–11, Haapsalu.
Ornithological Tel 6762 2766. ∑ lithua Karaimų 73, Lithuania. ∑ estonianspas.eu
nianfishing.com Tel 5285 5501.
Society Kalev Spa
Veski 4, Tartu. Vesipapp Aia 18, Tallinn. Tel 649
Tel 742 2195. Mushroom- and Tel 511 9117. 3300. ∑ kalevspa.ee
∑ eoy.ee Berry-Picking ∑ vesipapp.ee
Meriton Spa
Latvian Birding Countryside Tourism Zarasai Water Sports Toompuiestee 27, Estonia.
∑ putni.lv Tel 3740 0354. Centre Tel 667 7111.
∑ atostogoskaime.lt Laukesos village, Zarasai, ∑ parkinn.com
Lithuanian Society of Lithuania. Tel 6123 6862.
Ornithologists Vaskna Turismitalu Spa Vilnius
∑ poilsiobaze.lt
Naugarduko 47–33, Haanja vald, Võrumaa, Dineikos k 1, Druskininkai.
Vilnius. Tel 8521 30498. Estonia. Tel 782 9173. Tel 3135 3811.
Spectator Sports
∑ birdlife.lt ∑ spa-vilnius.lt
Winter Sports Arena Rīga
Hiking and Skanstes iela 21. Brewery Tours
Camping Villa
Trekking Tel 6738 8200.
A Le Coq Brewery
Ventainė
∑ arenariga.lv
Eži Ventės k, Lithuania. Laulupeo 15, Tartu,
Beātes iela 30a, Valmiera, Tel 4416 8525. Kalev Stadium Estonia. Tel 744 9711.
Latvia. Tel 6420 7263. ∑ ventaine.lt Juhkentali tänav 12, ∑ alecoq.ee
∑ ezi.lv Tallinn. Tel 644 5171. Kalnapilis
Kempingas Slėnyje
Slėnio 1, Trakai, Lithuania. Lokomotive Stadium Taikos avenue 1,
Nemunas Tour
Tel 5285 3880. Jelgavas iela 54, Panevėžys, Lithuania. Tel
Gėlių 50, Ringaudai,
∑ camptrakai.lt Daugavpils, Lithuania. 262 7526. ∑ kalnapilis.lt
Lithuania. Tel 3756 3766.
∑ lokomotive.lv
∑ nemunastour.com Kuutsemäe Resort Rinkuškiai
Tel 766 9007. Siemens Arena Alyvų 8, Birži, Lithuania.
Cycling ∑ kuutsemae.ee Ozo 14, Lithuania. Tel 4503 5293.
Tel 5247 7576. ∑ rinkuskiai.lt
BaltiCCycle Lithuanian Winter ∑ siemensarena.lt Švyturys
Tel 6995 6009. Sports Centre
Kūlių vartų 7, Klaipėda,
∑ bicycle.lt Sporto 3, Ignalina. Golf Lithuania. Tel 4648 4000.
Tel 3865 4193. ∑ lzsc.lt.
City Bike ∑ svyturys.lt
Estonian Golf
Vene 33, Tallinn. Taxi Bob Association Utenos
Tel 511 1819. Peldu iela 2, Sigulda, Tel 504 1792. Pramonės 12, Utena,
∑ citybike.ee Latvia. Tel 2924 4948. ∑ golf.ee Lithuania.
∑ taxibob.lv ∑ utenosalus.lt
Horse-Riding Estonian Golf &
Žagarkalns Country Club Užavas
Lietuvos Žirgynas Tel 2626 6266. Manniva küla, Jõelähtme, Užavas pagasts, Ventspils,
Žirgų 2, Riešė, Lithuania. ∑ zagarkalns.lv Harjumaa. Tel 602 5290. Latvia. Tel 6363 0595.
Tel 610 02810. ∑ egcc.ee ∑ uzavas-alus.lv
Water Activities
Tihuse Riding Farm Europos Centro Valmiermuižas
Hellamaa, Muhu, Estonia. Campo Girijos village, Lithuania. Dzirnavu iela 2, Valmiera,
Tel 514 8667. Kronu 23d, Rīga. Tel 2922 Tel 6162 6366. Latvia. Tel 2026 4269.
∑ tihuse.ee 2339. ∑ campo.laivas.lv ∑ golfclub.lt ∑ valmiermuiza.lv
Zirgzandales Oktopusas Ozo Golf Club Volfas Engelman
Mārupes novads, near Mainų 29, Klaipėda, Milgravja 16, Rīga. Kaunakiemio 2, Kaunas,
Rīga. Tel 2912 8841. Lithuania. Tel 4638 1850. Tel 739 4399. Lithuania. Tel 8007 2427.
∑ eng.zirgzandales.lv ∑ oktopusas.lt ∑ ozogolf.lv ∑ volfasengelman.lt
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 364–375

Travel Information 376–393
364 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
After so many years of being excluded from centres that often extends into small towns
the map of Europe, the Baltic States of Estonia, and offers an abundance of useful literature
Latvia and Lithuania are now drawing a great to help visitors get the best out of their trip.
number of eager visitors to discover the Moreover, with the region’s capitals only a
region’s hidden treasures. These countries are relatively short drive away from each other,
extremely visitor-friendly destinations that it is easy to explore the Baltic States either
offer a wealth of historic sights and cultural individually or as a whole. Tour operators are
activities as well as great natural beauty, good growing in number and offer a good variety
food and fascinating insights into the region’s of packages. The practical information below
complex past. Each country has a well- and on pages 366–7 covers each of the three
developed network of tourist information Baltic States.
When to Visit
The best time to visit the Baltic
States is from May to October,
when the weather is generally
mild and rarely very cold. It is an
ideal time to explore the region’s
natural wonders by visiting one
of the many national parks or
taking long treks in the country-
side, camping or going swim-
ming in the sea or one of the
numerous lakes. The best festivals
generally take place in summer,
while some small museums and
historic sights are only open
between May and September.
The Old Towns of Tallinn and
Rīga are especially crowded at
the peak of summer. Vilnius’s
larger Old Town, however, is less
cramped. Autumn is often Impressive building of the French Embassy in Rīga, Latvia
splendid in the Baltic States, but
the weather can abruptly turn significantly at any time. The least Travel Safety Advice
chilly as early as October. pleasant time to visit is January, Visitors can get up-to-date travel
The capitals are also very the coldest month, and the rainy safety information from the
atmospheric in winter, when they month of April, when the snow Foreign and Commonwealth
are blanketed in snow, although melts into a mass of sludge. Office in the UK (www.gov.uk/
temperatures can plunge foreign-travel-advice), the
State Department in the US
Visas and Passports (www.travel.state.gov) and
Citizens of EU member states, the the Department of Foreign
USA, Canada, Australia and New Affairs and Trade in Australia
Zealand only need a valid passport (www.dfat.gov.au or www.
for entry into Estonia, Latvia and smartraveller.gov.au).
Lithuania for a period of up to
90 days in a half-year period.
Those wishing to stay beyond Customs Regulations
the permitted 90 days will need to EU citizens are not subject to
apply for a national long-term visa customs regulations, provided
or a residence permit. Visitors from they adhere to EU guidelines.
other countries should enquire at All visitors should check for any
the relevant embassy or consulate customs duty or special permi-
for visa requirements before travel- ssion required to export a cultural
ling. The official websites of the object, before buying it. For
Ministry of Foreign Affairs for detailed information on all these
Street café close to Vilnius Cathedral, each of the three countries offers guidelines, entrance regulations
Vilnius, Lithuania information on visa regulations. and visa cost, it is advisable to
Velo-taxi on Tallinn’s Town Hall Square
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 365
DIRECTORY
Visas and Passports
Estonia
∑ vm.ee
Latvia
∑ am.gov.lv
Lithuania
∑ urm.lt
Customs Regulations
∑ ec.europa.eu
Tourist Information
Visitors at the tourist information office in Tallinn, Estonia ∑ visitestonia.com
∑ latvia.travel
visit the official website of the people, who are always eager to ∑ lithuania.travel
European Commission. promote their area and can offer
information on accommodation, Embassies and
museums, historic sights, nature Consulates in Tallinn
Tourist Information trails, entertainment and restau-
Canada
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania rants. Free brochures covering
Toomkooli 13. Tel 627 3311.
have a remarkably well- local and national sights and
∑ canada.ee
developed network of events are available at these
tourist information offices, which also sell UK
centres supported by an more detailed maps and Wismari 6. Tel 667 4700.
equally advanced guidebooks at nominal ∑ ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk
structure of tourism rates. For a full list of all US
websites. All cities and tourist information Kentmanni 20. Tel 668 8100.
most major towns have offices across each ∑ estonia.usembassy.gov
a tourist information Logo, country, visit their
office, which is usually Lithuanian Tourism websites. Latvia and Embassies and
located in or close to the Lithuania also have Consulates in RĪga
town square. In the case of very tourist information centres
small towns, the office is often in the UK, Finland, Germany, Australia
situated in a museum or within Sweden and Russia. Vilandes iela 7. Tel 6732 0509.
some other historic building. Canada
Tourist offices in cities and larger Business Hours
Baznīcas iela 20/22.
towns are open from 9am Throughout Estonia, Latvia and Tel 6781 3945.
to 6pm on weekdays. The offices Lithuania, banks and state institu-
are open for shorter hours on tions are generally open from 9am France
Saturdays and are usually open on to 5 or 6pm. Private businesses are Raina bulvāris 9. Tel 6703 6600.
Sundays. In remote places, open- increasingly working longer hours UK
ing hours are more erratic and it is and are open from 9am to any- J Alunana iela 5. Tel 6777 4700.
advisable to check in advance. where between 6 and 8pm. ∑ ukinlatvia.fco.gov.uk
Tourist offices are staffed by For opening hours of shops,
US
friendly, English-speaking local see pages 332, 336 and 340.
S Velsa 1. Tel 6710 7000.
Embassies and
Consulates in Vilnius
Australia
Vilniaus 23. Tel 212 3369.
Canada
Jogailos 4. Tel 249 0950.
UK
Antakalnio 2. Tel 246 2900.
∑ ukinlithuania.fco.gov.uk
US
Akmenų 6. Tel 266 5500.
∑ vilnius.usembassy.gov
Imposing exterior of the Hipoteku Bank in Limbaži, Latvia
366 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Exhibition on the Lithuanian partisans in the KGB Museum (see p242) in Vilnius, Lithuania
Museums, Churches many museums open for (both buses and trolleybuses),
and Historic Sights shorter hours or just remain free entry to museums and
Museums in the Baltic States closed. Some historic sights can discounts on tours, accom-
keep rather erratic hours, so it is only be visited as part of a modation and restaurants.
advisable to check opening guided tour. Organizers often
times before visiting. Usually, try to accommodate single
they open from 10am to 5 or visitors into a group. Admission Charges
6pm during summer, although In all three Baltic States,
in some cases they open at admission charges vary
11am or even midday. Monday Discount Card Schemes considerably depending
is the official closing day for A cost-effective way of explor- on the type of museum and
most museums, though some ing Tallinn, Vilnius and Rīga is to where it is located. Most
are also closed on Tuesdays. purchase a city card. The Tallinn museums away from the
Nearly all museums open on Card costs €31 for 24 hours, €19 capitals are quite reasonably
Saturdays and many on for 48 hours and €49 for 72 priced. Ticket prices in Tallinn,
Sundays. However, tour hours. It entitles holders to free Rīga and Vilnius are more
operators often arrange for entrance to 40 major expensive, but still
museums to open for a group. museums and tourist reasonable. Students
Other sights, such as castles sights, free sightseeing and senior citizens can
and churches, tend to have tours, use of public obtain discounts. State
fairly regular opening hours in transport and admission museums in Estonia
summer, between 9 or 10am to a range of entertain- offer free entrance on
and 4 or 5pm, Tuesday to ment venues, including the last Saturday of each
Saturday. In winter, however, a bowling centre, a month. In Latvia, state
water park and a major museums give free
nightclub. It can also get admission on the last
visitors a discount in Wednesday of each
many restaurants and Ticket to month, and in Lithuania
shops. The card is on St Peter’s, Rīga many museums do not
sale at tourist infor- charge an entrance fee
mation centres, hotels, travel on Wednesdays.
agents, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn
Port and online. The Rīga Card
costs €16 for 24 hours, €20 for What to Wear
48 hours and €26 for 72 hours. The chilly winters in the Baltic
It entitles holders to free admis- countries make thick layers of
sion to many museums, a clothing necessary, as well as
walking tour of the Old Town gloves, hats and thick-soled
and a discount at a range of waterproof shoes. In summer,
hotels. There are two types of lightweight garments are usually
Vilnius City Card, 24 hours and adequate, but it is best to carry a
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral (see p185) 72 hours. The card entitles jacket for the evenings. In spring,
in Liepāja, Latvia holders to free public transport carry an umbrella. Comfortable
footwear is recommended for

walking on the cobbled streets
of Rīga and Tallinn.
Travelling with Children

The Baltic States are extremely
child-friendly. Most parks have
play areas and some even have
a range of distractions, such as
bouncy toy castles and
trampolines. Many traditional-
style taverns and ethnographic
museums also provide some
wonderfully old-fashioned play
apparatus for children. Some
hotels offer childcare facilities.
For information on eating out Children playing at the Seaside Open-Air Museum (see p181), Ventspils, Latvia
with children, see pages 308–9.
places due to the extremely closer to Finnish. German is quite
narrow streets and pavements. commonly spoken as a second
Disabled Travellers Public transport is another language in all three Baltic States,
Although there has been a major obstacle as trams, while virtually everybody is
significant improvement in trolleybuses and fluent in Russian. However,
recent years, Estonia, Latvia trains do not communicating in English
and Lithuania do not provide provide wheelchair in the capital cities is
many facilities for disabled access in Tallinn and seldom a problem –
people. Most of the new Rīga, and only a very most people speak
upmarket hotels and limited number of it to some extent.
restaurants have taken buses do. The Knowledge of
disabled travellers’ needs situation is better in English is less wide-
into consideration, but such Vilnius, where a large spread in rural areas.
places are few and far number of buses and Signpost at For common words and
between. Owing to their trolleybuses have access Limbaži, Latvia phrases used in the three
historic structure, the Old for disabled people. For languages, refer to the
Towns of the three capital information on access for Phrase Book on pages 411–16.
cities are extremely difficult for disabled travellers in hotels,
disabled people to negotiate. see page 295.
In Tallinn, there are several Measures and
steep, winding cobblestoned Electrical Appliances
streets, and Rīga’s Old Town is Language The Baltic States all use the
also predominantly cobbled. Both Latvian and Lithuanian metric system. The mains
Although very little of Vilnius’s belong to the Baltic family of voltage is 230 volts in Estonia
Old Town is cobbled, it is still languages. Estonians speak a and Lithuania and 220 volts in
difficult to get around in many Finno-Ugric dialect, which is Latvia. Standard Continental
European two-pin plugs are
used. Although UK plug adapt-
ers are available, they are not
easy to find, so it is advisable to
bring any necessary adapters
with you.
Local Time
The clocks of the Baltic States
are set to Eastern European
Standard Time and are two
hours ahead of Greenwich
Mean Time (GMT+2) and seven
hours ahead of Eastern Standard
Time (EST+7). Clocks go forward
one hour on the last Sunday in
March and go back one hour on
The cobbled Viru Street in Tallinn’s Old Town the last Sunday in October.
368 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health problem, but visitors should take

care of wallets and handbags.
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are generally safe countries, with In Rīga, avoid using the
relatively rare instances of theft and mugging. However, tunnels around Central Station
visitors should remain vigilant in the capitals, particularly in at night; use the traffic light
crossings instead. It is also a
and around the Old Towns. Generally, Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius good idea to avoid using
are far safer than many other Western capitals, although the ATMs in quiet spots at night.
same precautions should be exercised as in any other major Also, never carry large
city in the world. The quality of medical care is improving and amounts of cash around with
is mostly level with that of Western European countries. you while visiting popular
Pharmacies in bigger cities are open all day and all three tourist destinations.
countries provide free emergency care.
Personal Safety
As you would do anywhere,
limited powers of arrest. In an using common sense is the best
emergency, it is best to call the way to ensure your personal
state police. safety. Never accept drinks from
In Lithuania, the policija (police) strangers, no matter how affable
uniform consists of a dark green they might seem, and never
jacket and trousers, black boots accept invitations from people
and a cap. They drive white cars to go with them to another bar
with a green stripe along the side or nightclub. Be vigilant and
and “police” written in large avoid disreputable-looking
letters across the car’s bonnet. clubs, as a number of scams can
happen in such places. It is
advisable to carry a mobile
General Precautions phone, with a record of all
Although the vast majority emergency numbers.
of visitors to the Baltic States do Avoid drinking excessively.
Busy western end of Basanavičiaus Street in not have any problems with There are a handful of thugs in
Palanga, Lithuania theft, it always helps to take each of the Baltic capitals who
some basic precautions to make a point of preying on
Police safeguard valuables. Car theft inebriated foreigners as they
The Estonian politsei (police) remains a persistent problem in stumble out of bars in the early
usually wear a dark blue jacket all three Baltic States, so park in hours and head back to their
and trousers, black boots and a central and well-lit areas, and hotels, although they normally
baseball-like cap. They drive keep expensive objects hidden target solitary people. Also,
white cars with a blue stripe and from view. Using a guarded refrain from ostentatious
the word politsei written on the parking lot is safer still. behaviour, such as carrying
side doors and bonnet. In Pickpocketing is a minor luxury items.
Tallinn, the police have a
significant street presence,
especially in the Old Town,
during summer. The municipal
police force wear dark green
uniforms and have limited
powers. Therefore, the state
police should be contacted to
report a crime.
In Latvia, the policija (police)
wear dark blue uniforms Estonian police car
consisting of a suit-like jacket
with epaulets and a maroon tie,
although when on patrol they
mostly wear dark blue overalls
with a luminous yellow vest and
a broad cap. The Latvian police
drive white cars with a grey
stripe along the side. The Rīga
municipal police usually wear
all-black uniforms and patrol the
Old Town, although they have Latvian police car
Health Care
Standards of health care in
the Baltics are now at least
equal to those in other
European countries. EU citizens
will be treated free of charge
provided they bring their
Health Insurance card (EHIC)
with them, together with
another form of photographic
identification.
Minor medical complaints
can be dealt with at a pharmacy.
Most pharmacies stock a wide Interior of the Town Hall Pharmacy (see p64), in Tallinn’s Old Town
range of international drugs. For
serious health concerns visit the Rīga all have a choice of safe to drink, but is best avoided
nearest hospital. standard Western European as it does not taste very good.
Private clinics exist in all major clinics that are significantly Bottled mineral water is better.
cities and are an option if you cheaper than private clinics
require non-emergency in the West. Check to see if
treatment. Tallinn, Vilnius and your existing insurance policy Pharmacies
covers all emergencies. If not, Minor ailments and accidents
it is advisable to take out can often be treated by staff at a
comprehensive travel insurance. local pharmacy (apteek in
As there are virtually no Estonian, aptieka in Latvian and
significant health risks in the vaistinė in Lithuanian), which
Baltic States, precautionary will usually stock a large
immunization is not mandatory. selection of international drugs
However, there is the risk as well as many herbal
of acquiring tick-borne medicines that are produced
encephalitis in woodland areas, locally. Pharmacies generally
so if you are planning to spend open from 8am to 7 or 8pm on
any length of time in a forest weekdays and until 3 or 4pm on
in summer, you should get Saturdays. There are a few
Exterior of the Medical Diagnostic vaccinated against it. In Tallinn, 24-hour pharmacies in Tallinn,
Centre, Vilnius Rīga and Vilnius, tap water is Rīga and Vilnius.
DIRECTORY
Emergency in Tallinn Central Medical Help Fire
Estonia Hospital in Rīga Tel 01, 112.
Ravi 18.
Ambulance 24-Hour Pharmacy Police
Tel 622 7070. Tel 02, 112.
Tel 112. Audēju 20.
∑ itk.ee
Tel 6721 3340.
Fire Roadside Assistance
Tel 112. Tallinn Mustamäe ARS Tel 1888.
Hospital Skolas 5. Tel 6720 1007.
Police J Sütiste 19. ∑ ars-med.lv Medical Help
Tel 112.
Tel 617 1300. in Vilnius
Roadside Assistance ∑ regionaalhaigla.ee
Paul Stradiņš Clinical
Tel 1888. University Hospital 24-Hour Pharmacy
Emergency Pilsoņu 13. Gedimino pr 27.
Medical Help in Latvia Tel 6706 9600. Tel 261 0135.
in Tallinn ∑ stradini.lv
Medical Diagnostic
Ambulance Rīga Hospital
24-Hour Pharmacy and Treatment Centre
Tel 03, 112. Number One
Tõnismägi 5. V. Grybo 32A.
Tel 644 2282. Fire Bruņinieku 5. Tel 6727 Tel 233 3000 or 698
Tel 01, 112. 0491. ∑ 1slimnica.lv 00000.
Qvalitas Swedish-
∑ medcentras.lt
Estonian Medical Police Emergency
Centre Tel 02, 112. in Lithuania Vilnius University
Parnu mnt 102c. Emergency Hospital
Tel 605 1500. Roadside Assistance Ambulance Šiltnamių 29.
∑ qvalitas.ee Tel 1888. Tel 03, 112. Tel 216 9140.
370 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency in DIRECTORY

Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania Banks and Bureaux
de Change
The Baltic States have a thriving banking sector and all three
Latvijas Banka (Latvia)
countries have now joined the Eurozone, using the common
Jana dalina iela 15, Rīga.
currency, the euro. The best and most convenient way to
∑ bank.lv
obtain euros while travelling in the Baltic States is by with-
drawing them from debit accounts using the ATMs of major Lietuvos Bankas (Lithuania)
banks. Bureaux de change and banks offer money-changing Totorių 4, Vilnius.
∑ lb.lt
services, as do hotels but the exchange rates are unfavour-
able. Check rates of commission before changing currency, SEB (Estonia)
and shop around as exchange rates may vary considerably. Tornimäe 2, Tallinn.
∑ seb.ee
Swedbank
Banking Hours ∑ swedbank.ee
In Estonia and Latvia, banks are
usually open from Monday to Credit Cards
Friday between 9am and 6pm.
Major banks in big cities stay MasterCard
open on Saturdays, from 9am to ∑ mastercard.com
2pm in Estonia and from 10am Visa Electron
to 3pm in Latvia. In Lithuania,
∑ visa.com
opening hours vary, with bank
branches operating from 8am
to 5pm on weekdays. Banks in
big cities open on Saturdays largest networks. Banks
from 8am to 3pm or 10am to usually charge between 2 and
5pm, and, in rare cases, for a few 3 per cent commission for
hours on Sundays. changing money.
Distinctively signposted bureau de change Bureaux de change are
in Latvia extremely widespread in the
ATMs three capitals and are open
There is an extremely wide for long hours, 7 days a week.
network of ATMs in the Baltic Banks and Bureaux They offer rates competitive to
States, spread across most de Change the banks, except in Estonia,
major town centres and the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania where commission can be as
capital cities. Some petrol have a staggering number high as 25 per cent. Changing
stations have ATMs and most of banks. The biggest is the money in hotels in all three
small towns have at least two or Swedish-owned, pan-Baltic countries should also be
three. Most ATMs have English- Swedbank. It has branches in avoided, as they often offer
language options and accept all just about every town as well unfavourable exchange rates.
major international credit and as many branches and ATMs in
debit cards, such as MasterCard, the cities. Sampo Bank and SEB
Visa Electron, VisaPlus and are major banks in Estonia. In Credit Cards and
Cirrus/Maestro, and you can Latvia, Latvijas Banka, SEB, Traveller’s Cheques
withdraw cash with no Citadele and Nordea are well Traveller’s cheques are best
additional charges. However, established. In Lithuania, avoided as very few banks now
most ATMs issue high- Vilniaus Bankas (SEB) and change them and they are
denomination banknotes. Lietuvos Bankas have the unheard of in shops. As there
is a wide network of ATMs
across all three countries,
either cash or a credit card
is a preferable option.
All the major credit cards are
widely accepted, except in the
smallest shops and cafés. Some
museums outside the capitals
also require cash payment. Bus
and train fares must usually
be paid in cash, both at the
One of the many 24-hour ATMs of Snoras, a bank in Lithuania stations and on board.
phased out later that year; one featuring designs of

The Euro Latvia’s lat was replaced in fictional architectural structures.
The euro (€) is the common January 2014; and Lithuania’s The coins, however, have one
currency of the European litas in January 2015. side identical (the value side),
Union. It went into general EU members using the euro and one side with an image
circulation on 1 January 2002, as their sole official currency are unique to each country. Both
initially for 12 participating known as the Eurozone. Euro notes and coins are exchange-
countries. Estonia joined in notes are identical throughout able in each of the participating
January 2011, with the kroon the Eurozone countries, each Eurozone countries.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven denom-
inations. The €5 note (grey in colour) is
the smallest, followed by the €10 note
(pink), €20 note (blue), €50 note
(orange), €100 note (green), €200 note
(yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 2- and 1-euro coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5- , 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
372 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media a month and covers news,

business, arts and entertainment
across Estonia, Latvia and
The three Baltic States have a highly developed communi- Lithuania. It includes weekly
cations network that is on a par with those of Western Europe. entertainment listings and infor-
Mobile phone usage is extremely high and access to Wi-Fi is mation on concerts, exhibitions
widespread. It’s advisable to travel with a mobile phone as and films. In Your Pocket (around
public telephones no longer exist in Latvia or Estonia, and €1) provides comprehensive
and well-researched write-ups
there are very few public phones left in Lithuania. The flat on everything from restaurants
terrain in the Baltic countries has always ensured good mobile and bars to nightclubs and
phone coverage, although you may discover the occasional shopping, as well as up-to-date
blind spot in the remoter areas. For long-distance calls, information on museum
international calling cards are readily available. The national opening times. Both
publications are widely
postal services are generally dependable and major
available at kiosks and some
international couriers operate in all three countries. retail outlets. Free listings
magazines come and go in all
Mobile Phones widespread as they used to be. three capitals and are available
GSM mobile phone networks In smaller towns, those that still at hotel reception desks.
have complete coverage in the exist are signposted with an International editions of
Baltic States. The main mobile “@” sign. Some hotels have British and American news-
networks have partnerships business centres or PCs for papers and magazines, such as
with Western European service public use, but most presume The New York Times, International
providers such as Orange and that guests arrive with their Herald Tribune and The
Vodafone, so travelling with own devices. Economist, can be found in
your own phone is generally some news outlets in central
straightforward. Another Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius.
option is to buy a prepaid SIM Postal Services
card from a local provider and Mail services in the Baltic
insert it into your own handset States are efficient and very Radio and Televsion
for relatively cheap calls and dependable. Post offices BBC Radio is easily found in
SMS rates. provide a range of services at all three Baltic countries.
However, roaming rules competitive postal rates. Mail Most other international radio
introduced in the European can be sent poste restante to stations can be easily accessed
Union mean that the cost of any post office in the Baltic via the web. Hotels of all kinds
making and receiving calls region, but a passport is continue to provide televisions
when abroad in the EU is now usually needed to collect it. in all rooms with access to
substantially cheaper than it Post offices sell cheaper the major international
used to be. The EU has imposed postcards than many shops. television stations, such as
maximum tariffs on all member the BBC, CNN and Euronews,
states for calls, texts and as well as sports and music
downloading. For travellers from Newspapers and channels. A few five-star hotels
outside the EU, high roaming Magazines are starting to introduce smart
charges will likely still apply. The Baltic Times is the only TVs that integrate entertain-
Contact your service provider to pan-Baltic, English-language ment and wirelessly stream
determine the rates. newspaper. It comes out once data from smartphones.
As of 2014, European operators
are not allowed to exceed the
following rates for mobile use:
€0.19 per minute for outgoing
voice calls; €0.05 per minute for
incoming voice calls; €0.06 per
SMS messsage for outgoing
texts; and €0.20 per megabyte
for online data downloads.
The Internet
Nearly all hotels have Internet
connections and many cafés
and restaurants have Wi-Fi
access, most of which is free.
Internet cafés are not as Customers at a newspaper kiosk in Ventspils, Latvia
Communications in Estonia DIRECTORY

Estonia’s communications infrastructure is very efficient. Useful Numbers
All phone lines are digital, ensuring high-quality connections Collect Calls
and easy-to-make international calls. Internet and mobile Tel 16116.
phone usage is particularly high. A wide range of services Directory Enquiries
can be paid for through mobile phones, including parking Tel 1182.
charges. Wi-Fi coverage in Estonia is almost total, and mostly Operator
free, including on the main islands and even on some Tel 165.
beaches. The post offices offer a range of express delivery
Mobile Phones
options, including a special pan-Baltic option.
Elisa
The Internet ∑ elisa.ee
Virtually everywhere you go in Tele2

Tallinn and the rest of Estonia, ∑ tele2.com
Wi-Fi internet access is Telia
available in public places. ∑ telia.ee
Almost every café, restaurant,
hotel and public building offers Postal Services
Wi-Fi openly and free of charge,
making Internet cafés all but Cargobus
∑ cargobus.ee
redundant, though one or two
are still around. DHL
∑ dhl.ee
Postal Services DPD

∑ dpd.ee
The state-owned Estonian
postkontor (post office), called Omniva
Omniva, is an efficiently run ∑ omniva.ee
enterprise. It has 500 outlets Tallinn Central Post Office
around the country opening Narva mnt 1. Tel 661 6616.
Accessing the free Wi-Fi available just from 9am to 6 or 7pm on ∑ post.ee
about everywhere across Estonia weekdays, and between
9am and 3pm on Saturdays.
Tallinn Central Post Office in Estonia, while Cargobus
Making a Phone Call is open from 8am to 8pm is a reliable Estonian parcel
Estonia has an extremely simple on weekdays, and from delivery company. The
and efficient digital telephone 10am to 4pm on Saturdays cheapest way of sending a
network. In 2004, the country and Sundays. parcel home is probably with
did away with all city codes, as The cost of sending a letter the state post office company
a result of which all landline of up to 50 g (about four Omniva. They can send
numbers are now seven digits. pages) in Europe is €1.20. To parcels to a specific address,
Calls to landlines are usually less send it registered costs around from post office to post office,
expensive than those to mobile €3. It is possible to package, or via courier.
phones. The public phone label and pay for sending
system has been decommis- letters and parcels via Dialling Codes
sioned, and there are now no Omniva’s online e-service.
public telephones to be found Major international couriers • All mobile numbers begin
anywhere in the country. such as DHL and DPD operate with 5 or 8; almost all other
lines start with other numbers.
• Toll-free numbers start with 80;
Mobile Phones premium rate numbers start
with 70.
Estonian mobile numbers start • To make an international call
with 5 or 8 and usually have from Estonia, first press “+”,
seven or eight digits. The main then the destination’s country
mobile phone operators are code and number.
Telia, Elisa and the pan-Baltic • To call Estonia from abroad dial
Tele2. EMT Simpel and Tele2 the international access code
both offer pre-paid SIM cards, (00 from the UK, 011 from the
which are useful for visitors US and Canada), followed by
planning to stay in Estonia for Estonian postbox outside the Central Post 372, Estonia’s country code.
a significant length of time. Office, Tallinn
374 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications in Latvia DIRECTORY

The telephone and mail networks in Latvia are both efficient Useful Numbers
and reliable, although some post office branches need
Directory Enquiries
modernization. Nevertheless, post offices are present in most
Tel 1188.
towns and villages of significant size. With the rise of mobile
phone use, under-used public phones have been removed Mobile Phones
across the country. Internet access is excellent in Rīga and
other major cities, with Wi-Fi hotspots in many cafés and Bite
hotels, and continues to improve throughout Latvia. ∑ bite.lv
LMT
∑ lmt.lv
Tele2
∑ tele2.lv
Postal Services
DHL
∑ dhl.lv
DPD
∑ dpd.lv
A Plus Punkts kiosk selling SIM-card packages and top-up credit, Rīga
Latvijas Pasts
Making a Phone Call second phone, which can be Brīvības bulvāris 32, Rīga.
All valid telephone numbers in found at shops and stalls in Tel 6750 2815.
Latvia have eight digits, except shopping malls, and signing up ∑ pasts.lv
those for contacting some to a pay-as-you-go plan.
special public services. All
mobile numbers start with 2; open longer, from 7am to 9pm,
landlines start with 6, and The Internet on weekdays, from 9am to 8pm
occasionally 5. Speedy, free-of-charge Wi-Fi is on Saturdays and from10am to
Now that public telephones widely available at restaurants, 8pm on Sundays.
have been withdrawn, the hotels and cafés in Rīga and Major international couriers
easiest way to make much of the rest of Latvia. The such as DHL and DPD
international calls is simply with rapid growth of its availability operate in Latvia, but the
your own mobile phone after means that Internet cafés have cheapest way of sending a
registering with one of the three become redundant and are parcel home is probably with
mobile phone operators active virtually non-existent. One can Latvijas Pasts. They can send
in the country, LMT, Tele2 or easily be guided by a local to parcels to a specific address,
Bite. EU regulations ensure the nearest Wi-Fi connection. from post office to post office,
that roaming charges are not or via courier.
extortionate for those using
a European phone. If roaming Postal Services
charges are a concern, you Branches of Latvia’s state-
Dialling Codes
could purchase a prepaid owned post office, Latvijas • Mobile numbers start with
2; landline numbers tend to
calling card for international Pasts, are found all over the
start with 6.
calls, which allows connection country. In Rīga the biggest
• Toll-free numbers begin
through a toll-free number and is located at Brivibas iela 32 with 80; premium-rate
gives automated instructions in (entrance on Merkela iela), but numbers start with 8 or 9.
numerous languages. there are smaller post offices in • To make an international call
the city centre. Sending a letter from Latvia, first press “+”,
of up to 50 g within Europe then the destination’s
Mobile Phones costs €0.90; to send it country code and number.
Latvia’s three mobile phone registered costs €1.70. • To call Latvia from abroad
operators LMT, Tele2 and The busy Brivibas post office dial the international access
Bite provide prepaid SIM cards branch is open from 7:30am to code (00 from the UK, 011
(your own phone will need to 7pm on weekdays and from from US and Canada),
be unlocked). Visitors staying in 9am to 3pm on Saturdays, but followed by 371, Latvia’s
Latvia for longer periods have is closed on Sundays. A branch country code.
the option of buying a cheap at the central train station is
Communications in Lithuania DIRECTORY

The widespread network of telephone and mail services in Useful Numbers
Lithuania is very efficient. The huge popularity of mobile Directory Enquiries
phones has ensured that the few public phones that exist are Tel 118.
rarely used. Post offices can be found in all towns and larger
Mobile Phones
villages. Internet usage is virtually universal and finding an
access point is seldom a problem. Bitė
∑ bite.lt
Omnitel
Mobile Phones ∑ omnitel.lt
There are three mobile phone
Tele2
operators in Lithuania, namely ∑ tele2.lt
Omnitel, Tele2 and Bitė. They
provide prepaid SIM cards Postal Services
which might be helpful to those
from outside the EU who are DHL
Phone card, available with the service concerned about roaming ∑ dhl.lv
provider, Teo LT charges. Keep in mind that DPD
your phone would need to be ∑ dpd.lv
Making a Phone Call unlocked. Visitors staying for
Lietuvos Paštas
Public telephones are steadily longer periods have the
Gedimino 7, Vilnius. Tel 261 6759.
disappearing from Lithuania, option of buying a cheap
∑ post.lt
but a few can still be found. All phone on a pay-as-you-go
valid telephone numbers in basis to take advantage of
Lithuania have eight digits low local rates. Phones can be
(including the area code), with purchased in shops and stalls on Saturdays and from 10am
the exception of special public in indoor shopping centres. to 8pm on Sundays.
services such as four-digit Sending a letter of up to 20 g
numbers for taxi companies. in Europe costs €0.75; to send it
All mobile numbers currently The Internet by registered mail costs €2.84.
start with 6. Fast, free-of-charge Wi-Fi can Major international
Area codes are one to three be found at restaurants, hotels couriers such as DHL and
digits and need to be left off and cafés in Vilnius and much DPD operate in Lithuania, but
when dialling locally from a land of the rest of Lithuania, and the cheapest way of sending
line. In Vilnius for example the old-fashioned internet cafés a parcel home is probably with
area code is 5. When in Vilnius are becoming difficult to find. Lietuvos Paštas, either to a
you dial seven digits, leaving If you find that Wi-Fi is not specific address, from post
off the 5. When dialling from immediately available wherever office to post office, or
another area code, dial 8 first, you happen to be, a local will shipped via courier.
then the full eight-digit number undoubtedly be able to tell you
including the area code. When where you might find it.
calling any number from a
Dialling Codes
mobile phone, dial the • Mobile numbers start
complete eight-digit number, Postal Services with 6.
including the area code. Branches of Lietuvos Paštas, • Lithuania’s city codes
Now that public telephones Lithuania’s state-owned post include 5 for Vilnius, 37 for
have been withdrawn, the office company, are found all Kaunas, 46 for Klaipėda, 313
easiest way to make interna- over the country. In large for Druskininkai, 460 for
tional calls is simply with your towns and cities they are Palanga and 469 for Nida.
• Toll-free numbers start with
own mobile phone after increasingly located in indoor
8; premium-rate numbers
registering with one of the three shopping centres where
start with 9.
mobile phone operators active opening hours are long and • To make an international call
in the country, Omnitel, Tele2 include Sundays. In Vilnius, the from Lithuania, first press “+”,
and Bitė. EU regulations ensure main post office is on the main then the destination’s
that roaming charges are not street, at Gedimino 7, and is country code and number.
extortionate. If roaming charges open from 8:30am to 7pm • To call Lithuania from
are a concern, you could pur- on weekdays and from 9am abroad dial the international
chase a prepaid calling card for to 2pm on Saturdays, but is access code (00 from the
international calls, which allows closed on Sundays. A branch at UK, 011 from US and
connection through a toll-free the central train station is open Canada), followed by 370,
number and gives automated longer: from 7am to 9pm on Lithuania’s country code.
instructions in many languages. weekdays, from 9am to 8pm
376 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVELLING TO ESTONIA
It is easy to reach Estonia by air, as several station are only a short taxi or bus ride away.
major international carriers from many Tallinn has good coach connections with the
European cities provide links to Tallinn, the rest of Europe, although travelling by coach
capital of Estonia. The country is also well can be slow. Reaching Estonia from Western
served by ferries, with regular services to Europe by train is almost impossible, as the
Tallinn and the island of Saaremaa. In Tallinn, only international service is from Russia.
the ferry port and main railway station are A pan-Baltic train, Rail Baltica, is in the works,
conveniently located close to the Old Town but is a complex and expensive undertaking,
and city centre, while the airport and coach with completion set for 2024.
Other Estonian Airports

Estonia’s other airports are
situated in Pärnu, Kuressaare
and Kärdla. These are serviced
by small regional airlines with
connections to Tallinn. There
are special summer flight
services from Sweden to
Saaremaa Island and from
Finland to Tartu’s recently
upgraded airport.
Arriving by Sea
Estonia is very well served
by ferry, with Tallinn’s
Passenger Port (reisisadam)
Gleaming interior of Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport handling about 7 million
passengers a year. The main
Arriving by Air London Stansted and line, Tallink, has routes to
The sleek-looking Lennart Meri Manchester; easyjet flies Helsinki (Finland), Rostock
Tallinn Airport is the only from London Gatwick. (Germany) and Stockholm
Estonian airport with regular (Sweden), while other carriers,
scheduled flights. In recent such as Viking Line and Eckerö
years, the airport has become From Tallinn Airport to Line, are accessible from
a regional hub with approxi- the City Centre Helsinki and Stockholm. Linda
mately 12 airlines using the Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Line runs a hydrofoil service
airport, including major carriers is about 3 km (2 miles) from to Helsinki.
such as Finnair and Lufthansa. the city centre. Taxis wait Travellers from Helsinki are
The Latvian airline airBaltic outside and the ride to the spoiled for choice, with a
makes regular flights to Tallinn city centre costs around €10. range of catamarans and
with a quick stop in Rīga. Bus number 2 takes up to ferries making the crossing.
Nordica is the rightful 15 minutes to reach the centre The Passenger Port is within
successor to the bankrupt and costs around €1.50. It walking distance of Tallin’s Old
national airline, Estonian Air. leaves every 20 minutes from Town and a taxi ride should
Based in Tallinn, it offers Monday to Saturday, and cost between €3 and €5,
a good standard of service in every 30 minutes although it is close enough
both business and tourist class. on Sunday. to walk. The local bus no. 2
The airline has direct links with connects the port with the city
several major European destina- centre, bus station and airport.
tions as well as some Estonian Tallinn is also included
cities and islands. Visitors from in a choice
outside Europe need to catch a of Baltic Sea
connecting flight from cities such cruises. Pärnu
as London, Helsinki, Copenhagen and Saaremaa
or Stockholm. Island are also
A couple of low-cost carriers included in
provide daily flights to Tallinn some cruise
from the UK: Ryanair flies from Taxi stand near Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport ship itineraries.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 377
DIRECTORY
Airlines
airBaltic
∑ airbaltic.com
easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
Finnair
∑ finnair.com
Lufthansa
∑ lufthansa.com
Nordica
∑ nordica.ee
Ryanair
Tallink ferry on a voyage across the Baltic Sea ∑ ryanair.com
Arriving by Coach Arriving by Train Airports

International coach routes Tallinn’s main railway station,
Kärdla Airport
to Estonia are provided by Balti Jaam, is a short walk away ∑ kardla-airport.ee
Lux Express and Ecolines, from the Old Town. There is a
which operate connections nightly train to Moscow. Tickets Kuressaare Airport
between Tallinn and Berlin, should be pre-booked, since ∑ kuressaare-airport.ee
Munich, Kaliningrad, Warsaw Russian visa specifications insist Lennart Meri Tallinn
and St Petersburg, among on dates of entry and exit. Airport
others. International coaches In 2010, the Tartu–Volga line Lennujaama 1.
arrive at Tallinn Bus Station reopened, making it possible to Tel 605 8888.
(bussijaam), which is a short travel from Tallinn to Rīga. There ∑ tallinn-airport.ee
taxi ride from the city centre. are plans to build the Rail Baltica Pärnu Airport
Alternatively, catch the route to Warsaw. ∑ parnu-airport.ee
numbers 2 or 4 trams, or
numbers 17, 17a or 23 buses Tartu Airport
from the main bus station Arriving by Car ∑ tartu-airport.ee
into the city centre. Passengers Since 2007, when the Baltic
Ferry Companies
travelling to Tallinn by bus States agreed to the Schengen
from Rīga or Vilnius can get Agreement (under which Tallink
off at the more central Viru systematic border controls were ∑ tallink.ee
väljak bus stop. There are also abolished), there are no border Viking Line
limited international coach restrictions for Schengen visa ∑ vikingline.fi
connections with Pärnu, Narva holders. Crossing the border
and Tartu. The coach network from Latvia is easy, especially for Ferry Port
is efficiently run and cheap. EU passport holders. The border
Services are clearly posted crossing with Russia is slower Passenger Port
in coach and bus stations. and border guards are likely to Sadama 25. Tel 631 8550.
scrutinize your documents. To ∑ portoftallinn.com
bring your own car into Estonia,
Coach Companies
the Vehicle Registration docu-
ment, an international driving Ecolines
permit and a valid Green Card ∑ ecolines.ee
insurance policy are mandatory. Lux Express
Estonia, reputed to be one ∑ luxexpress.eu
of the world’s most digitally
well-connected country for Coach Station
various services, also became the
pioneer in Europe to fully legalize Tallinn Bus Station
ride-sharing companies such Lastekodu 46. Tel 680 0900.
as Uber. With this initiative, ∑ bussireisid.ee
Estonia has embraced the model
Ridesharing
of sharing economy and also
promoted an efficient public Uber
transport scheme. A ride with ∑ uber.com/cities/tallinn
Lux Express coach, connecting Tallinn to Uber from Tallinn’s airport to the
Germany, Poland and Russia Old Town could cost up to €6.
378 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Estonia endless stops in small towns and

villages. Route operators include
The best way of getting around Estonia is by car, as all the main SEBE and Taisto. The Tartu–
sights are, at most, a few hours’ drive away from each other. The Tallinn route is the busiest and
country’s rail network is cheap but with a limited reach and most convenient, with coaches
departing every hour until late at
often frustratingly slow. A far better public transport option is
night. Tickets can be bought
the country’s well-developed bus system, which links all the from the bus station or the driver
major towns and cities as well as more remote areas. However, on boarding. On busier routes, it
rural bus services are sparse, and the buses tend to crawl along is best to buy tickets in advance.
at no more than about 30 kmph (19 mph). Alternatively, there Although ticket prices vary, they
is a good range of ferries serving the islands but many of these are generally very reasonable,
but slightly higher than those for
do not run in winter, when the sea freezes over. Some regular rail travel. The fares of buses
domestic flights connect Estonia’s mainland cities, and there bound for the islands are usually
are regular air connections to several islands. higher as they always include
the price of the ferry crossing.
To check bus schedules visit
Bussireisid’s website.
Luggage is usually carried
onto the bus and passengers
may have to pay a small
additional fee to stow any large
items in the compartment
underneath the bus.
Travelling by Ferry
The Estonian islands are well
served by a number of car and
passenger ferry connections.
There are also regular services
Local train waiting at Tallinn railway station between Rohuküla harbour
(near Haapsalu), Heltermaa
Travelling by Train or updated and services are (on Hiiumaa Island) and Vormsi.
Estonia’s rail network is the usually posted on large display Virtsu harbour (north of Pärnu)
least efficient way to see the boards at the stations. has hourly connections with
country. Services have been Muhu Island, which is linked with
so drastically reduced that nearby Saaremaa Island by road.
the choice of destinations is Travelling by Bus Saaremaa itself is connected
limited. There are rail routes The bus network in Estonia is with Hiiumaa from Triigi harbour
between Tallinn and Narva, efficiently run and is good value in the northeast. Saaremaa has a
Tartu, Pärnu and Viljandi, and for money. Inter-city buses run special summertime ferry service
an electric train runs between regularly and are generally to Ventspils in Latvia. Check
Tallinn and Paldiski 10 times a comfortable. Some companies Saaremaa Shipping Company
day. It is usually advisable to run express routes, which avoid Limited’s official website for
catch a kiirrong (fast train),
although these are still rela-
tively slow compared to those
in Western Europe. However,
there are now express trains,
with first-class carriages,
between Tallinn and Tartu.
Edelaraudtee runs inter-city
passenger services and
Elron, a government-owned
train operator, runs local
electric trains.
It is best to buy pilet (tickets)
on board, although some can
be bought online or at the
ticket offices in Tallinn. There
are no passes for rail travel.
Timetables are rarely printed Bussireisid’s air-conditioned inter-city express bus en route from Tartu
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Edelaraudtee
∑ edel.ee
Elron
∑ elron.ee
Travelling by Bus
Bussireisid
∑ bussireisid.ee
SEBE
∑ sebe.ee
Taisto
∑ taisto.ee
Ferry from Virtsu on its way to Saaremaa Island
Travelling by Ferry
route details. Veeteed runs a Travelling by Car
Saaremaa Shipping
ferry service between Pärnu and Driving is by far the best way to Company Limited
the islands of Kihnu and Vormsi, get around Estonia. Conditions ∑ tuulelaevad.ee
although the service is less are generally good on main
Veeteed
regular. In summer, ferries tend roads and distances are relatively
∑ veeteed.com
to quickly fill up and passengers short. However, country roads are
can be left waiting in long severely potholed and dirt roads Travelling by Air
queues if they don’t reserve are also common in many rural
their tickets well in advance. parts of the country. Avies
Passengers travelling by car There are no motorways and ∑ avies.ee
should arrive at the harbour overtaking is the norm. It is
about 20 minutes before the mandatory by law to drive with Car Hire
scheduled departure time. the headlights on at all times Avis
In winter, ferry services are of the day. Wearing a seatbelt is ∑ avis.com
often cancelled when the compulsory for drivers as well as
sea freezes over, although passengers. The speed limit is Budget
∑ budget.com
officially designated ice roads 50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up
are established if the ice is areas and 90 kmph (56 mph) Easy Car Rent
thick enough. on the main roads. In Estonia, ∑ easycarrent.eu
drinking alcohol and driving is Europcar
illegal. By law, winter tyres must ∑ europcar.com
Travelling by Air be fitted between December
Estonian Air, the country’s and March. Hertz
Petrol stations are quite rare in ∑ hertz.com
national carrier (see p376),
operates domestic flights that remote places so it is advisable National
connect the major cities. Avies to fill up on petrol when leaving ∑ nationalcar.com
also runs a few daily flights a city or town.
between Tallinn, Kuressaare and
Kärdla. It is best to book well in
advance because their planes Car Hire
are very small and can only seat There are numerous car rental
up to seven passengers. There firms, including Avis, Budget,
are also some flights from Pärnu Europcar, Hertz and National.
Airport to Kuressaare and Kihnu A local company, Easy Car Rent,
which are reasonably priced, also offers good deals. All
and a good option in winter require a major credit card
when the sea is frozen. Tartu and a valid international driver’s
Airport has connections to Rīga licence. Rental rates are
and Stockholm. Kärdla acts comparable to those in Western
mainly as a stopover point Europe. Outside Tallinn, there
for chartered flights in Europe. are few rental options except in
The daily domestic service to major towns. However, some of
Tallinn is the only regular the Tallinn-based chains can
service coming from the airport organize car hire in other parts Autorent Terminal of Avis, a global car
at Kärdla. of the country. rental chain
380 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Tallinn cost between €1 and €2 depend-

ing on how far the destination is.
Most of the main sights in Tallinn are within comfortable Tickets can only be purchased
walking distance of each other. The Old Town is so compact from the drivers on boarding.
that it can easily be covered on foot. Public transport in Tallinn
is cheap and efficient. It is made up of an integrated network Driving
of trolleybuses, buses and trams serving sites away from the
Driving around Tallinn may be
city centre. Cycling is another good way of getting around the a little disorienting for visitors.
city. In general, Tallinn’s transport options are very good, and There are several confusing
there is no need for a car unless you plan to take a day trip or one-way systems and traffic
explore the outer parts of the city. jams are common during rush
hour. Also, tram tracks are often
in the middle of the road.
Buses, Trolleybuses premium, it is best to buy Drivers have to stop and wait for
and Trams tickets, either individual or a tram when it pulls in at a
Tallinn’s public transport system as booklets, at kiosks. Tallinn station so that passengers can
operates daily between 6am and Card (see p366) holders are safely alight. Driving conditions
midnight. Buses are the best way entitled to unlimited travel on are especially difficult at night
to reach the airport and other all public transport. because of the dangerous habit
outlying areas. The terminal for of overtaking on narrow roads
many routes is in Viru Keskus, the and speeding. The speed
central shopping mall. The nine Minibuses limit in Tallinn is 50 kmph
trolleybus lines mainly connect Minibuses, or route-taxis as they (31 mph), except on some
to residential areas near are often called, are a larger roads where the limit
the centre. The main faster option for travel- is 70 kmph (43 mph).
stops are on Vabaduse lers. They connect the
väljak and Balti Jaam. city centre to outlying
Trams follow the main residential areas. These Parking
arteries in and out of the white vans, operated by There are plenty of parking
city centre. The four tram many small private com- options in Tallinn, though it can
lines running across the panies, follow set routes, be hard to find a good spot in
city converge at the picking up and dropping the heart of the city during
Hobujaama stop on Bus sign, off passengers at any weekdays. In the city centre,
Narva maanti (road). Tallinn spot they request along paid parking is in force between
The same tickets can the route. Most mini- 7am and 7pm on weekdays and
be used on all three systems buses leave from a stop at 8am and 3pm on Saturdays,
and schedules in English can be Estonia puiestee (boulevard) just although the first 15 minutes
found at the Tallinn Bus opposite the Estonian Drama are free. Tickets can be bought
Company’s website. As drivers Theatre. Destinations are usually from street-side machines or
only sell single tickets at a displayed in the window. Tickets kiosks or, in some areas, by
Tallinn tram, a convenient mode of transport for short hops around the city
DIRECTORY
Buses, Trolley Buses
and Trams
Tallinn Bus Company
∑ soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
Taxis
Reval Takso
Tel 601 4600.
A taxi waiting in a cobblestoned street in the Old Town, Tallinn
∑ reval-takso.ee
using a mobile phone, following journey and ensure that the Tallink Takso
instructions posted on signs. meter is running. Tel 640 8921.
Rates range from around €1 per ∑ tallinktakso.ee
15 minutes to €4.60 per hour.
The Old Town has a seven-day, Cycling Tulika Takso
24-hour paid parking in effect, Getting around Tallinn by Tel 612 0001.
which starts at €0.75 per bicycle is a good option, ∑ tulika.ee
15 minutes. A relatively although it is not so practical in
convenient option might be to the cobbled streets of the Old Cycling
leave your car at one of several Town. There are plenty of
centrally located guarded bicycle rental firms in the city, CityBike
parking lots. These range in such as CityBike, that offer a Tel 5111 819.
price from about €0.75 to wide range of organized tours ∑ citybike.ee
€1.90 per hour. In the summer accompanied by a guide. It is
months, paid parking is also in also possible to rent a bicycle Velotaxi
effect in the Pirita istrict. and take off by yourself. As there
are hardly any bicycle lanes in Green Gears
Tallinn, special care should be Tel 5385 5353.
Taxis taken when cycling along ∑ greengears.ee
There is an abundance of taxis congested streets.
in Tallinn, although it is best to
take one from a taxi stand or from most hotels and tourist
to book one in advance from Walking information centres.
reputable companies such as Walking is the ideal way to
Tulika Takso, Tallink Takso or experience the busy streets
Reval Takso. Taxi stands can be of Tallinn’s Old Town and Velotaxi
found near large hotels, major the city centre. In general, Velotaxis, or bicycle-taxis, are a
intersections and also next to Tallinn is a pedestrian-friendly novel way of seeing the city.
the Estonian Drama Theatre. environment, although a good They operate from March to
Hailing a taxi on the street is road map is useful to avoid October and cost around €2.25
risky, as there are many getting lost in its labyrinthine for an adult and €0.95 for a
dishonest taxi drivers who streets. A huge number of child, and can be ordered on
overcharge foreign visitors. walking tours are available the Green Gears website.
However, legislation has been
introduced to help improve the
situation. All taxi drivers are
obliged to display their prices
in English, on the vehicle’s rear
right-hand window, and to
provide a receipt on request. If
the driver fails to give a receipt,
the passenger is legally entitled
not to pay the fare.
Starting fares normally range
from €2.25 to €4.50, with a rate
of about €0.50 per kilometre,
although prices can vary
considerably from operator to
operator. It is advisable to ask
the driver for an approximate
price before starting your The fascinatingly novel velotaxi, available for hire in Tallinn
382 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVELLING TO LATVIA
Most visitors arrive in Latvia by air, at Rīga international passenger flights. For those who
International Airport. Since independence wish to avoid air travel and who have more
there has been a rapid growth in the number time, there are sea routes from Germany and
of European cities directly linked to Rīga, Scandinavia, as well as comfortable trains and
mainly because of the arrival of low-cost coaches from other parts of the Continent.
carriers that raised the capital’s profile as a Arriving by car is also perfectly feasible,
destination for weekend breaks. In contrast, the provided the driver has the correct documents
country’s regional airports are little used for and is willing to tackle a variable road network.
Arriving by Air
The majority of visitors to Latvia
arrive at Rīga International
Airport, the largest airport in
the Baltic region by passenger
numbers. The airport is
connected to most Western
European cities as well as to
Prague, Moscow, Kiev, Tallinn,
Vilnius and Warsaw. Services
at the airport include a
currency exchange and ATMs,
which remain open until the
last flight arrives. Rīga International Airport
The country’s national
carrier, airBaltic, was estab- From Rīga Airport Other Latvian Airports
lished in 1995 and offers some to the City Centre The other international
very affordable flights. Rīga is Rīga Airport is located about airports are in Ventspils
also served by other major 8 km (5 miles) from the city and Liepāja. Neither is
airlines including LOT, SAS, centre. The cheapest way to much used by scheduled
Lufthansa and Finnair. Several reach the city is by taking a passenger services.
low-cost carriers, such as Wizz bus from outside the airport
Air and Ryanair, also fly to Rīga terminal. Bus 22 runs approxi-
from various European cities. mately every 10 to 20 minutes, Arriving by Sea
There are very few direct from 5:45am to midnight, and Passenger ferries take longer
flights to Latvia from the USA, takes 30 minutes to reach than air travel, though crossing
New Zealand, Canada or Abrenes iela (street); stops the Baltic Sea has its own
Australia. Visitors often transfer along the way include 11 appeal. Ferries operated by
at another European airport Novembra krastmala and Tallink connect Rīga to
such as Copenhagen or the Central Railway Station. Stockholm (Sweden). Stena
Helsinki. It may be more airBaltic operates the Airport Line connects Liepāja
economical to arrange a long- Express every 30 minutes, to Lübeck (Germany), and
haul flight to a transport hub from 5:30am to 12:30pm; it Ventspils to Nynashamn
such as London, along with a costs €5. Taxis reach the city (Sweden) and Lübeck. Rīga’s
separate onward flight. centre in 15 minutes. main Ferry Terminal can be
reached by trams 5, 7 or 9
from the bus station or
outside the National Opera.
There are marinas at Rīga,
Jūrmala, Liepāja, Pāvilosta,
Salacgrīva and Ventspils for
those with their own boats.
The Latvian Coast website
offers information.
Arriving by Coach
This is the best way to travel
between the three Baltic
Express bus waiting outside Rīga International Airport capitals. International carriers,
such as Ecolines, Lux Express are more luxurious two-bunk DIRECTORY

and Nordeka, run services compartments on the trains
between Rīga and several other from Moscow. Airports
European and Russian cities.
Liepāja Airport
Rīga’s main bus terminal,
Autoosta (see p385), is five Arriving by Car ∑ liepaja-airport.lv
minutes south of the Old Town. Since the Schengen Agreement Rīga International Airport
Travelling by coach costs less (see p377), there are no border
10/1 Mārupes civil parish.
than travelling by air, although controls between Estonia, Latvia
Tel 1187.
the difference is negligible, and Lithuania. Entering from
except during peak season. Russia or Belarus may take ∑ riga-airport.com
International coaches are several hours. Ventspils Airport
equipped with air conditioning It is essential to bring along
∑ airport.ventspils.lv
and reclining seats, and some, the vehicle’s registration
such as those in Lux Express’s document, a valid third-party
Airlines
lounge class, have well-spaced insurance policy and either a
single seats, extra legroom and European driving licence or an airBaltic
in-seat touch-screen consoles. International Driving Permit.
∑ airbaltic.com
Vehicles must be in roadworthy
condition and it is compulsory Finnair
to carry a first-aid kit, fire ∑ finnair.com
extinguisher and hazard-
warning triangle in your vehicle LOT
at all times. From December to ∑ lot.com
March, winter tyres must be
Lufthansa
used, and between September
and April, drivers should fit ∑ lufthansa.com
spiked tyres. Ryanair
∑ ryanair.com
Passengers queuing up outside the ticket Arriving by Bicycle SAS

office at a bus station Since Latvia acceded to the ∑ flysas.com
Schengen Agreement, cycling
Arriving by Train into Latvia from Estonia or Wizz Air
The main railway station in Rīga, Lithuania has been simple. ∑ wizzair.com
Central Railway Station (see p385), The flat landscape makes it
is located south of the Old Town. an attractive option during Ferry Companies
Although there are no trains from summer. Carry appropriate
Vilnius to Rīga, it is possible to spares and a waterproof jacket. Stena Line
ride the rails between Talinn and There are two EuroVelo cycle ∑ stenaline.com
Rīga, although passengers need routes passing through Latvia,
Tallink
to change trains at the border. though they are not always well
∑ tallinksilja.com
There are rail routes heading east marked, and much of the riding
towards Moscow, Vitebsk, Odessa is on country roads. EV10
and St Petersburg. The most follows the Baltic coastline, Ferry Port
comfortable way to travel on while EV11 crosses the Estonian Ferry Terminal
most routes is a kupeja (four-bunk border at Valka and traverses
Eksporta iela 3A, Rīga.
compartment). However, there Eastern Latvia to Daugavpils.
Tel 6732 6200. ∑ rigapt.lv
Ventspils Port
Tel 636 22586.
∑ portofventspils.lv
Coach Companies
Ecolines
∑ ecolines.ee
Lux Express
∑ luxexpress.eu
Nordeka
∑ nordeka.lv
Passenger train passing through the lush pine forests of the Latvian countryside
384 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Latvia If the journey starts at a major

station, it is best to buy a ticket
The public transport network in Latvia is extensive and before boarding. Otherwise
affordable. Travelling by coach tends to be quicker than by train, tickets can be purchased from
although the buses are often old and can be uncomfortable. the driver. If your luggage is
very large, you may have to pay
Major urban areas and places of interest to visitors usually
to stow it in the luggage
benefit from frequent coach services. However, in the country- compartment, but otherwise it
side, there may be only one bus or train per day in each is normal to take it on board.
direction. This means that visitors who wish to get off the beaten
path will find it difficult to rely on public transport. Car hire is a Understanding
popular choice, despite the variable state of the roads in the Timetables
country. The combination of a flat landscape and relatively short Outside of Rīga, it can be
distances makes cycling pleasant, especially in good weather. difficult to find station staff
who speak English. Timetables
are written on boards at the
railway station and are also
available by telephone and on
the Internet. Details of several
common routes are also
available in the publication
Rīga in Your Pocket (see p387).
For further enquiries visit the
Latvian Railways website.
Timetables at train or
bus stations rarely include
timings of return journeys from
various destinations. Express
buses are generally indicated
by the letter “E”, while the
Commuters entering the Central Railway Station, Rīga equivalent for trains is
indicated by three-digit route
Travelling by Train visit several towns in a single numbers. Pietur indicates
The state-owned Latvian day. Although more expensive that a train or bus stops at a
Railways runs all trains in the than travelling by train, bus particular destination, while
country. Trains tend to take a travel is still good value. For nepietur means that it does
little longer than buses to reach overnight journeys, it is not. Buses and trains listed as
their destinations, but the advisable to carry a blanket darbdienās run on weekdays,
journey is slightly more com- or sleeping bag. and the days of the week are
fortable, especially if travellers Autoosta (Rīga’s central bus often listed by their initial.
bring along cushions for the station) runs services to Bauska, Latvian stations number their
hard benches. However, the Cēsis, Sigulda, Daugavpils, perons (platform) and ceļš
windows rarely open, making Liepāja, Valmiera and Ventspils. (track) separately.
the carriages stuffy in summer.
The heating can be erratic.
The most useful routes are
from Rīga to Jūrmala Beach,
Jelgava and destinations in
Gauja National Park. There are
also train services to places
further afield such as Valmiera,
Daugavpils and Rēzekne. Rail
enthusiasts should take the
narrow-gauge line between
Alūksne and Gulbene.
Travelling by Coach
Regular coach services run
between most large towns and
cities. Other places are less
frequently served, therefore
careful planning is important to One of the many extra-long public buses typical of Daugavpils
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Latvian Railways
Gogoļa iela 3, Rīga.
Typical car rental sign at the Domestic Airport, Rīga Tel 6723 1181.
∑ ldz.lv
Travelling by Car major roads, degvielas stacija
and Motorcycle (service stations) are often Travelling by Coach
Bringing or renting a vehicle open 24 hours, but in rural areas
is an excellent way to see it can be hard to find a place Autoosta
Latvia for those who come to refuel. Prāgas iela 1, Rīga.
for short trips, or wish to visit Parking is usually easy outside
Tel 9000 0009.
out-of-the-way corners of the Rīga, although some cities,
∑ autoosta.lv
country. However, neither notably Daugavpils and Liepāja,
car rental nor petrol is cheap, have parking meters in certain
and road conditions vary areas. There is also a fee of €2 Car Hire
dramatically. Most major routes to enter Jūrmala, collected at
are in an acceptable state, a roadside booth. Budget Rent A Car
but minor roads can be in Tel 6720 7327.
poor condition. Many are ∑ budget.lv
surfaced with gravel or dirt. Car Hire
In winter, gritting is not Vehicle hire is most easily
widespread, and some minor arranged in Rīga, although other Travelling by Bicycle
roads become impassable towns and cities have hire offices. Cycling is a good way to
without a sturdy four-wheel- Most international car rental get around the relatively flat
drive vehicle. companies are represented in terrain of Latvia. Bicycles can be
Latvians tend to drive the capital, and many of them hired in many towns and cities.
aggressively and overtaking have offices at the airport. The tourist information board
on blind corners is There are many smaller can provide details of cycle
common. Congestion companies as well. routes, such as the popular
is rare outside the Check the condition and easy trail from Rīga to
capital. The legal blood of the vehicle and the Jūrmala and routes in
alcohol limit is 0.05 per insurance cover provided. Gauja National Park and its
cent, with a 10-day Car hire services are surrounding valley. There are
prison sentence for Bumpy road sign operated by companies also two European Cycle Routes
exceeding it. Seat belt at Krāslava such as Budget Rent in Latvia, one of which, part of
use is mandatory in the A Car. Most companies the EuroVelo 10, runs along the
front seats, as well as in the rear stipulate a minimum age for entire coast.
if fitted, and crash helmets must the person hiring the car. Bicycles are permitted on
be used on motorcycles. It is Requirements state that the trains, although you need to
compulsory to drive with driver should have held a licence buy a ticket for them. There are
the headlights switched on for at least a year. The driver may designated areas at the end of
at all times. The speed limit is also need to leave his credit card each carriage, marked with a
50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up details or a large deposit. bicycle symbol.
areas and 90 kmph (56 mph)
elsewhere. Traffic police cannot
always be spotted outside
towns and cities, but they are
strict about speeding and collect
fines on the spot. Remember to
ask for a receipt if you are fined.
In the countryside, changes
in speed limit are not always
signposted and it is up to
the driver to notice signs
indicating built-up areas.
These are white rectangles
usually bearing the name of
the town or village.
Signposting is poor across
the country, making it essential
to buy a good roadmap. On Cyclists riding through a field of dandelions in Gauja National Park
386 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Rīga Minibuses

Rīga’s mikroautobuss (minibus)
Rīga’s compact Old Town is a pleasure to wander around and network runs along the major
is best explored on foot. The cobbled streets, however, can boulevards and out into the
prove difficult for those with mobility problems. Several suburbs, and usually offers great
hotels are located within the Old Town, while many others are comfort and speed. The main
within easy walking distance. It is also a short walk to the stops are outside the Central
Railway Station and the
unmissable Art Nouveau district from the city centre. Orthodox Cathedral. Tickets cost
Attractions further afield, such as the Latvian Ethnographic marginally more than those for
Open-Air Museum, can be reached via the city’s extensive other public transport.
network of buses, minibuses, trolleybuses and trams. Tickets
are available on board, while passes valid for various lengths Driving
of time can be purchased from newspaper kiosks. Taxis are
Driving in Rīga is seldom a
readily available outside the Old Town. pleasant experience, marred by
heavy traffic during peak hours
and aggressive drivers. Petrol
stations are readily found, and
roads tend to be in good condi-
tion, with just a few potholes.
It is worth noting that you
must not pass a tram that has its
doors open, since this might
endanger passengers, and you
must be careful not to block the
tram lines.
Parking
Parking can be difficult to find
in the city centre. It is also
Passengers boarding a bus at Rīga Bus Station expensive. Rates are €2 for the
first hour and €3 per hour on
Buses, Trolleybuses responsible for public transport, the streets of the Old Town. For
and Trams SIA Rīgas Satiksme. Until those who really need a car, it is
With several bus, trolleybus and 2009 different payment systems best to choose a hotel with
tram routes, Rīga’s public operated for buses, trams and parking space.
transport system is a cheap and trolleybuses but now they
efficient way of getting around have finally been integrated.
outside the Old Town. It brings There is a single fare of €1.20 Taxis
many museums, hostels and paid to the driver on boarding. Taxis are abundant in Rīga and
hotels within easy reach of the There is no extra charge for are a comfortable, though
town centre and also offers luggage. However, it is better to relatively expensive, way of
access to the zoo, the Song purchase your ticket first from a getting around. They do not
Festival grounds and to several kiosk for €0.60. The etalon smart come in a standard colour,
large parks. card covers five, ten or twenty although all official cabs have
There are timetables at the journeys at a discount. Public yellow licence plates. Fares
various bus stops, but usually transport is free to holders of a vary from €0.35 to €0.70 per
no route maps are shown; Rīga Card (see p366). kilometre depending on the
therefore it is advisable to carry
one when travelling. Public
transport on most routes runs
between 5:30am and 11:30pm,
with some services operating
hourly throughout the night.
Autoosta (see p385) is close to
both the Central Railway
Station and Central Market.
Other transport hubs include
the stretch in front of the
Orthodox Cathedral.
Various organizations merged
in 2005 to form a single body Taxis for hire outside Rīga International Airport
taxi company. Fares tend to

increase by about 50 per cent
after midnight. It is usually
better to book a taxi in
advance, rather than flag one
down in the street, and you
might obtain a better price by
calling a reputable company
such as Rīga Taxi or Rīgas
Taxometru Parks. Taxis waiting
outside the upmarket hotels
tend to be more expensive.
Passengers must note that
drivers often refuse to accept a
fare of less than €5, and try to
charge at least that much to
take passengers from the bus
or railway station to a nearby
hotel. Visitors must ensure that
the meter is used, or at least
negotiate a fare in advance,
before entering the taxi. It is
rarely difficult to find a taxi Pedestrians at a zebra crossing, Aspazijas bulvāris
during the day, while at night
taxis congregate at each end of particularly pleasant to wander popular Rīga In Your Pocket
Kaļķu iela. around in summer, when many guide, but it is only detailed
streets and squares are lined enough if you do not plan to
with terrace seating outside stray far from the centre. The
bars and cafés, and the weather guide also indicates public
is more suitable for walking. The transport routes.
area immediately north of the
Old Town is home to some DIRECTORY
impressive Art Nouveau
buildings and several smart Buses, Trolleybuses
shops and restaurants. The main and Trams
street in Rīga’s Art Nouveau
district is Elizabetes iela, which SIA Rīgas Satiksme
intersects with Brīvības bulvāris Tel 8000 1919.
(avenue). In addition, Alberta ∑ rigassatiksme.lv
and Strēlnieku iela also feature
examples of this style. Taxis
The Rīga Card (see p366) offers
Rīga Taxi
Cycling in Rīga, a quick and easy way of free entry to many museums, a
getting around the city free walking tour of the Old Tel 8000 1010. ∑ taxi.lv
Town, and free public transport Rīgas Taksometru Parks
Cycling within Rīga and Jūrmala. Since Tel 8383. ∑ rtp.lv
Getting around Rīga by bicycle is public transport is already so
a good option, despite the Old cheap in the country, investing Cycling
Town’s cobbled streets and the in the card is worthwhile only
heavy traffic in other parts of the if visitors are interested in the Eat Rīga
city. One of the more pleasant walking tour or in visiting Tel 2246 9888.
places for a ride is the pristine several museums in a single day. ∑ eatriga.lv
suburb of Mežaparks (see p160). The card is available in hotels, at
Eat Rīga can offer help with Rīga Airport and in the tourist City Card
bicycle rental in the city. information offices.
Rīga Card
Tel 6721 7217. ∑ rigacard.lv
Walking Maps
The Old Town is relatively The most widely available map Maps
small, with plenty of of the city is published by Jāņa
recognizable landmarks, making Sēta, at a scale of 1:20,000 with Rīga in Your Pocket
the walk manageable as well the centre shown at a detailed Laipu iela 8–9a. Tel 6722 0580.
as enjoyable, in spite of the 1:7000. A much smaller version ∑ inyourpocket.com
cobblestoned streets. It is of the map is included in the
388 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVELLING TO LITHUANIA
The quickest and easiest way to reach regular departures from London, Paris
Lithuania is by air. Most airlines fly to Vilnius, and other European capitals. However,
which has direct connections with many getting to Lithuania by car is long and
European cities. Some international flights hazardous, given the bad roads in Poland.
arrive at Kaunas and Palanga airports. A daily train service links Warsaw with
Lithuania has only one sea port, at Klaipėda, Kaunas and Vilnius, with a change at
which offers a limited number of passenger Sestokai, on the Polish-Lithuanian frontier.
ferry services across the Baltic Sea to Lithuania is not covered by Eurail or
Germany and Scandinavia. By land, it is best InterRail, making travelling by train from
to travel to Lithuania by coach. There are Western Europe expensive.
Arriving by Air
Lithuania is well connected
with Europe and, via major
European transport hubs such
as London, Copenhagen and
Amsterdam, to the rest of the
world. Connectivity has
improved, with flights to and
from Vilnius timing in well with
intercontinental flights. Since
March 2008, the control of
internal borders among the
Schengen states, which also
include Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania, was abolished.
Opened in 1944, Vilnius
Airport is the arrival point for
most flights. It is the only
airport among the Baltic International check-in hall at Vilnius Airport
capitals to have maintained its
original appearance of a Airlines, Norwegian, Nordica, as the majority of tickets are
formulaic, erstwhile Soviet-era Finnair, Lufthansa, Ryanair purchased on the Internet. In
terminal. Services at the airport and SAS. accordance with international
include car rental offices, From the United States, the agreements, most airline
currency exchange and cafés, most common routes to services operate a system of
as well as newspaper kiosks Lithuania are via Warsaw, then reduced rates for children,
which also sell bus tickets. on to Vilnius with LOT; students and pensioners, as
airBaltic offers increased Stockholm or Copenhagen, well as pre-arranged groups.
services between Rīga and then on to Vilnius with SAS;
Vilnius, and direct services from or Helsinki, then on to Vilnius
Vilnius to several European with Finnair. Norwegian airlines From Vilnius Airport to
cities, including Amsterdam, fly via Oslo. the City Centre
Copenhagen, Dublin and Canadian visitors tend to Vilnius Airport is located 5 km
London. British Airways pulled fly via Frankfurt and Brussels (3 miles) south of the city
out of serving Vilnius due to with Lufthansa. centre. There is a train from the
low-cost airline competition. Travelling from Australia airport to Vilnius Main Station,
As a result, major international or New Zealand also requires which takes about 7 minutes,
flights and low-cost carriers multiple carriers, and it is although buses also operate.
from around 40 cities arrive in worth shopping around for Tickets are cheaper if bought
Lithuanian airports. These the best prices. at airport kiosks.
include almost all the capitals airBaltic has implemented a The bus stop and taxi rank
of Western Europe, as well as one-way ticket system, which are both outside the arrivals
Prague, Moscow, Minsk, Gomel, ensures the prices of tickets area. The official rate for taxis
Kiev, St Petersburg, Tbilisi, depend directly on demand. into town is about €8, but
Kaliningrad, Baku, Tel Aviv and The traditional “Sunday rule”, tourists will find it difficult to
other cities further east. Other with prices being higher on pay less than €15. Taxis take
European carriers that serve weekdays than on the about 20 minutes to reach
Vilnius include Austrian weekends, does not hold true, the city centre.
Other Lithuanian
Airports
The airports at Kaunas and
Palanga have scheduled inter-
national flights, although they
are fairly limited compared to
those at Vilnius Airport. New
terminals are being built at both
the airports in an effort to make
them better equipped. From
Kaunas Airport, shuttle bus
number 120 goes to Savanorių
prospektas (avenue) and the
Old Town, while bus number International cargo and passenger carrier sailing out of Klaipėda
29 goes to the bus station. A
Arriving by Sea
minibus shuttle travels twice DIRECTORY
daily between Kaunas Airport Lithuania’s only commercial
and Vilnius, connecting all maritime harbour, Klaipėda Airlines
Ryanair flights, as that is the only State Sea Port, is linked by airBaltic
carrier operating in Kaunas at ferry to ports in Germany, ∑ airbaltic.com
the moment. For information Sweden and Denmark. There
on airport bus services, log on are connections between Austrian Airlines
to Ollex. There are hourly buses Klaipėda and Kiel and Mukran ∑ austrian.lt
from Palanga Airport to in Germany, Copenhagen- Finnair
Palanga and many buses Fredericia, Aabenraa-Aarhus ∑ finnair.com
operate between Palanga in Denmark and Karlshamn
LOT
and Klaipėda. airBaltic offers in Sweden.
∑ lot.com
its passengers free minibus
services from Palanga Airport to Lufthansa
Klaipėda. Buses head north from Arriving by Coach ∑ lufthansa.com
the airport to Liepāja in Latvia. Lithuania has an extensive Nordica
network of roads connecting ∑ nordica.ee
the country to neighbouring
Arriving by Car states. It is fairly simple to reach Norwegian
∑ norwegian.com
As Lithuania is part of the Lithuania by bus or coach from
Schengen zone, there are no Estonia or Latvia as there are Ryanair
restrictions on entering it from numerous crossing points. ∑ ryanair.com
Schengen countries. Drivers There are express passenger SAS
entering the country by car do coaches from Vilnius to Rīga ∑ flysas.com
not need an international and Tallinn, as well as other
driver’s licence, but it is essential cities including Warsaw, Berlin, Airports
that they carry the vehicle’s Prague, Vienna, Kaliningrad and
registration documents, Moscow. On the other hand, Kaunas Airport
insurance papers, a passport the journey from countries such Karmėlava.
and a licence from their country. as Germany or the UK is very Tel (37) 399 396.
∑ kaunas-airport.lt
All cars must carry a first-aid kit long and the inconvenience is
and fire extinguisher. best avoided. Palanga Airport
Liepojos pl 1.
Tel (460) 52 020.
∑ palanga-airport.lt
Vilnius Airport
Rodūnios kelias 10a.
Tel 273 9305.
∑ vilnius-airport.lt
Airport Bus Services

Ollex
∑ ollex.lt
Ferry Information
Klaipėda State Sea Port
∑ portofklaipeda.lt
Airport terminal building, Palanga Airport in Western Lithuania
390 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Lithuania Travelling by Train

The national rail network is run
Lithuania’s excellent road network makes it very easy to get by Lietuvos Geležinkeliai
around. Buses are the fastest and most convenient mode of (Lithuanian Railways). The main
public transport in the country. Express buses link virtually routes are from Vilnius to Šiauliai
and Klaipėda, Vilnius to Visaginas,
every town in Lithuania and are also a great way to see the
which passes by Ignalina and
countryside. Trains are cheaper, but also less frequent and Aukštaitija National Park, Šiauliai
with far fewer routes. The roads in Lithuania are some of the to Panevėžys and Rokiškis, and
best-maintained in Central and Eastern Europe, which often the comparatively speedy and
makes hiring a car the most comfortable way to travel. The regular Vilnius to Kaunas route.
country’s relatively flat landscape, punctuated by low hills, The Vilnius to Varėna line conti-
nues to Dzūkija National Park
makes it ideal for cycling as well. before heading into Belarus.
One of the most enjoyable and
scenic train journeys in
Lithuania is on the Narrow-
Gauge Railway, which runs from
Panevėžys to Lake Rubikiai.
All train tickets must be
purchased at the ticket desks
at railway stations. Reductions
are available for young child-
ren, pensioners and also
disabled passengers.
Lithuania’s autobusų stotis (bus
stations) and traukinių stotis
International luxury coach at the bus station in Panevėžys (railway stations) are generally
located close to one another
Travelling by Bus buy them from the driver on and are within easy walking
Buses form the main mode boarding, especially on minor distance of the town centre.
of Lithuania’s public transport routes. In summer, or during Theft is rare, although it is best
network. The privately owned weekends when services are to keep an eye on your
bus company Toks operates more regularly used, it is worth belongings. Risk to personal
comfortable buses on more buying tickets in advance. Tickets safety is seldom an issue when
than 50 routes countrywide as have to be paid for in cash and travelling in Lithuania, but
well as 11 international routes there are no facilities for reserving security guards are often
for Eurolines. Although them by telephone or on the deployed at Vilnius Bus Station.
travelling by bus is usually a Internet. Disabled passengers, However, bus and train
little more expensive than by senior citizens over the age of 70 stations place little emphasis on
train, buses are quicker and and children below the age of cleanliness and hygiene,
connect more places. ten, are entitled to a 50 per cent although the stations at Vilnius
Schedules are written on signs discount. Pre-school children and Kaunas have now been
at the head of each stand, as well travel free. Groups of ten passen- modernized. At the larger
as inside the bus station building. gers or more get price reductions railway stations it is also possible
Express buses, marked by an “E” if travel is arranged in advance. to leave your baggage at the
in the schedules, sometimes
operate on intercity routes,
bypassing smaller towns and
villages along the way. Many of
the bus services to the coast, for
instance to Palanga or Nida, are
seasonal and operate in summer
only. For more information on
frequency of services check the
official website for Toks.
Vilnius Bus Station is the
country’s biggest bus transport
hub, although Kaunas Bus
Station also has links with
various European cities.
Tickets can be bought at ticket
desks in bus stations in larger
towns, although you can also The Narrow-Gauge Railway, one of the most scenic and enjoyable train journeys
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Bus
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.lt
Kaunas Bus Station

Vytauto 24. Tel (37) 409 060.
Toks
∑ toks.lt
Vilnius Bus Station

Sodų 22. Tel 8900 01661.
∑ autobusubilietai.lt
Well-maintained ticket office in the railway station, Vilnius Travelling by Train

left luggage room for a small built-up areas is 50 kmph Lietuvos Geležinkeliai
fee, or deposit it in a self- (31 mph), but drivers are rarely ∑ litrail.lt
service locker. stopped for speeding unless
they exceed a speed of 60 kmph Car Hire
(37 mph).
Travelling by Car Drink driving is a punishable Aunela
Roads in Lithuania are excellent offence and local authorities ∑ aunela.lt
by post-Soviet standards, and sometimes use roadblocks and
present no special problems to breathalyzer tests as
drivers. There are different enforcement tools. Road Signs
categories of road, with different Signposting on motorways,
speed restrictions. The highest country roads and minor roads
category is the motorway, but Car Hire is comprehensible. When
there are only two of these, A large number of local and entering a town or village, the
Kaunas to Klaipėda (A1), and well-known international car settlement’s name appears
Vilnius to Panevėžys (A2). hire companies offer a wide on a sign with black lettering
Although the Vilnius–Kaunas range of vehicles for rental in on a white background. This
and Kaunas–Klaipėda roads Lithuania. Some have desks at indicates that drivers must slow
look the same, the former Vilnius Airport and upmarket down to the speed limit for
stretch is not the “motorway” hotels. Many others can be built-up areas. Small blue signs
class because of its hilly terrain. found in Vilnius city centre. near road junctions in Vilnius
There are no toll roads in Local firms, such as Aunela, city centre point the way to
Lithuania, except through the have a range of newer and older streets, sights and landmarks.
Curonian Spit National Park. Western makes of car. The Key road signs to look out for
Lithuanian regulations state minimum rental period is are those regulating speed,
that every car must carry a small usually 24 hours. Payments for controlling roadside parking
fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, a car hire can be made with and preventing right or left
reflective warning triangle and cash or through any major turns. These are often
reflective safety vest. It is credit card. monitored by traffic police.
mandatory for the driver and
passengers to wear seat belts.
Motorists must use headlights
at all times, both during the day
and night. The traffic police may
not be able to speak fluent
English but are stringent about
rules and can collect fines on
the spot.
The maximum permissible
speed limit on motorways is
130 kmph (81 mph) from May
to October and 110 kmph
(68 mph) for the rest of the year,
the exception being the Vilnius–
Kaunas motorway where the
speed limit remains 110 kmph
(68 mph). The speed limit in Part of Klaipėda’s recently modernized road network
392 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Vilnius woes in the short term. With

the rise in the number of
The best way to explore Vilnius is on foot as most sights such vehicles, tailgating and over-
as churches, museums, restaurants and cafés are within easy taking have become standard
walking distance of each other. It is only a short walk to the practice. Central Vilnius has an
extensive one-way system,
main sights from the city’s main thoroughfare, Gedimino
which can be quite tricky to
Avenue. Vilnius’s Old Town is among the biggest in Europe negotiate without a road map.
and much of the city’s inner traffic is kept to roads that circle its
boundary. To reach the sights and restaurants that lie outside
Parking
the city centre, visitors can use the reliable network of
trolleybuses and buses. Taxi services are usually trustworthy Multi-storey car parks in Vilnius
are few. Most often drivers use
but getting around by road is best avoided at rush hour. roadside parking. In the city
centre, drivers can use
controlled parking between
8am and 6pm, using a pay-
and-display machine. Parking
is more expensive in the Old
Town. Failing to pay results in
a wheel-clamp, a lengthy wait
and then a very heavy fine.
In parked cars, all objects,
including bags and clothing
should be locked out of sight.
Modern trolleybus, part of Vilnius’s public transport network Taxis

Taxis are easily available in
Buses and Trolleybuses peak hours, especially early Vilnius, although during rush
Vilnius has a very dependable mornings and late evenings. hour and late on weekend
network of trolleybuses and The problem is further com- evenings it may be necessary
buses with frequent services that pounded by the erstwhile to call several companies
span the city. Some of the older Soviet city planning. The lack before finding a free cab.
vehicles are now being replaced of roads is a serious issue that Ordering a taxi by telephone is
with modern ones. However, Vilnius’s city council is strug- cheaper than hailing one on
public transport is best avoided gling to solve with the help the street. The average charge
during rush hour, when trolley- of EU funds. However, road is €0.50 per kilometre, though
buses and buses are crowded. construction causes further prices are higher at night.
A detailed map of the city’s bus blockades, adding to drivers’ Companies such as Romerta
routes is available on the Vilnius
Transport website. The time-
tables for every stotelė (stop) can
be viewed by clicking “autobusų”
for buses and “troleibusų” for
trolleybuses. Few services run
between 11pm and 5am.
A standard bilietas (ticket) is
valid on both buses and trolley-
buses. This must be bought in
advance at a kiosk or from the
driver on boarding, and then
validated by punching it in one
of the machines on board.
Passes for one, three and ten
days are available. Penalties for
travelling without a valid ticket
are high.
Driving in Vilnius
Traffic density has increased
rapidly in Vilnius in recent years,
resulting in congestion during A busy road in Vilnius during peak traffic hour
and transport. West Express

organizes specialized tours, such
as Jewish Vilnius. Balloon flights
with Ballooning Centre are
especially memorable.
Car Hire
A convenient alternative for
getting around the city and
taking day-trips to nearby
Martono Taksi, an expensive but reliable option attractions such as Trakai is to
hire a car. International car
and Ekipažas are generally shopping, festivals and parades, rental companies, such as
reliable. All taxis must have a besides being an attraction in Europcar, Avis and Hertz, and
working meter, so check the itself. Stretching from Cathedral local companies such as Aunela,
initial reading as you get in. Square in the east to Žvėrynas offer insured vehicles.
in the west, it becomes
Cycling
pedestrianized in the DIRECTORY
evenings. The lush districts of
Conditions for cyclists vary Žvėrynas and Užupis are on Buses and Trolleybuses
considerably around the city. either sides of the Old Town. Vilnius Transport
Bicycle routes are clearly The former leads to the Sodų 22. Tel 216 0054.
marked on many of the pave- splendid views of the Neris ∑ vilniustransport.lt
ments in the Old Town, along river and Vingis Park, reachable
roads such as Gedimino and by a pedestrian bridge. A walk Taxis
Konstitucijos avenues and into to Užupis may culminate in a
districts such as Žvėrynas and peaceful wander around Ekipažas
Šv Stepono 33a. Tel 233 7958.
Vingis Park. EuroVelo route 11 is Bernadinų Cemetery, or you
∑ ekipazastaksi.lt
an Eastern European cycle route could continue on as far as
that runs through the eastern Belmontas and the Church of Romerta
Baltic region, taking in Vilnius Sts Peter and Paul. Garsioji 9. Tel 275 6969.
and Tartu. It has now been ∑ romerta.lt
extended to Vilnius from the
southwest to the northeast, Cycling
towards Verkiai. However, Baltic Cycle
cycling along roads that do Vytenio 6–110. Tel 6995 6009.
not have bicycle lanes is not ∑ bicycle.lt
recommended. Bicycles can
be rented at Baltic Cycle. Sightseeing Tours
Ballooning Centre
Walking Upės 5. Tel 6520 0510.
∑ ballooning.lt
Each sight is just a few steps
from the next one, allowing Senamiesčio Gidas
visitors to experience the Old Aušros vartų 7. Tel 6995 4064.
Town’s magnificent architecture ∑ vilniuscitytour.com
from close quarters. There are Visit Lithuania
many pedestrianized streets L Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1.
and, despite the occasional Visitors walking down Pilies Street towards Tel 262 5241.
reckless driver, traffic is rarely Upper Castle, Old Town ∑ visitlithuania.net
a hindrance. West Express
Crossing roads in Vilnius can Sightseeing Tours
A Stulginskio 5. Tel 255 3255.
sometimes be hazardous. At Tour guides in Vilnius are ∑ westexpress.lt
many crossings a “red man” and professional and speak fluent
“green man” guide pedestrians English. A typical sightseeing Car Hire
on when to cross. However, at tour arranged by Senamiesčio
road junctions, there are traffic Gidas includes a trip to the Old Avis
∑ avis.com
lights just for cars. When at a Town, Užupis and the Church of
pedestrian crossing without Sts Peter and Paul. Customized Europcar
lights, cars must give way to tours can also be arranged. ∑ europcar.com
pedestrians, but they do not Travel agencies such as Visit Hertz
always do so. Gedimino Avenue Lithuania also arrange guided ∑ hertz.com
is the city’s main street for tours as well as accommodation
394 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Anykščiai Northern Railway Museum Basanavičius, Dr Jonas 218, 248
main entries. 269 Basilian Gate (Vilnius) 237, 238
Apartments 293, 295 Basilian Monastery (Vilnius) 235, 237
A Apparition of the Holy Mother of God Basketball 360
Abava river 182 Church (Vilnius) 245 Bastejkalns (Rīga) 154
Academy of Sciences (Rīga) 158 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 231 Bathory, Stefan 153, 215, 217, 279
Accommodation 292–307 Aqua Park (Ventspils) 181 Battle of Grünwald (Matejko) 34, 216–17
Estonia 296–9 Āraiši Lake Fortress 193 Battle of Poltava (Lomonosov) 37
Latvia 300–303 Architecture 20–21 Bauļins, Leonīds 200
Lithuania 304–7 Art Nouveau in Rīga 156–7 Baumanis, Kārlis 195
see also Apartments; Camp sites; Baroque Vilnius 237 Bauska 169, 170–71
Guesthouses; Hostels; Hotels; Private Medieval 65 hotels 301
homes Museum of Estonian Architecture Bauska Alus brewery 171
Adamson, Amandus 82 (Tallinn) 77 Bears, brown 23
Adamson-Eric 70 Arctic lichen 23 Beer 312–13
Adamson-Eric Museum (Tallinn) 75 Arsenal Museum of Art (Rīga) 148 Brewery tours 360, 361
Admission charges 366 Art Days and Museum Nights (Latvia) Bees 22, 270, 271
Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85 136 Beekeeping 271
Aglona 15, 131, 171, 187, 199 Art Museum Rīga Bourse 147 Beekeeping Museum (Aukštaitija
hotels 302 Art Nouveau 20, 21 National Park) 270, 271
restaurants 324 Art Nouveau Museum (Rīga) 156 Beethoven, Ludwig van 182
Aglona Basilica 199 Rīga 143, 156–7 Beit Bella Synagogue (Tallinn) 41
Ahja river 126 Art shops Beit midrash (Kalvarija) 261
Ainaži 194 Latvia 337 Belfry (Vilnius Cathedral) 230
Air travel Rīga 338–9 Berg, Count Friedrich von 124
Estonia 376, 377, 379 Tallinn 334 Berlitz, J G 170
Latvia 382, 2833 Vilnius 343 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Lithuania 388–9 Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Berry-picking 359, 361
Airport transfers Artists’ Hill (Sigulda) 192 Bērze river 171
Rīga 382 Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Beržoras 282
Tallinn 376 Arts, visual 26 Bicycle Museum (Saulkrasti) 196
Vilnius 388 Aspazija see Rozenberga, Elza Bicycle Museum (Šiauliai) 276
Aken, Hans von 67 Aspazija House (Jūrmala) 174 Biķernieki Forest 161
Akste Anthills 126 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Birds 22–3
Albert II Radvila 216 (Liepāja) 137 bird-watching 356–7, 361
Alberta iela (Rīga) 21, 157 Astronomical Observatory (Molėtai) 269 Nemunas Delta 287
Alekna, Virgilijus 27, 211 Ates Mill Museum (Umernieki) 203 Ornithological Centre (Lake Engure)
Alekšupīte river 183 ATMs 370 176
Alexander I, Tsar 38, 81, 226 Augustus II of Poland 268 see also Wildlife
Alexander II, Tsar 232 Aukštaitija/Aukštaitijans 35, 214, 253 Birgitta Festival (Tallinn) 53
Alexander III, Tsar 74, 141 Aukštaitija National Park 11, 17, 212, Birkerts, Gunnar 159
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) 255, 270–71 Biron, Duke Ernst Johann 170, 172, 173
12, 24, 58, 72, 74 hotels 305 Birštonas 261
Algirdas, Grand Duke 227, 231, 232, restaurants 328 hotels 305
238 Aušra 218, 248 restaurants 328
Alternative Art Centre (Užupis) 244 Aušra Avenue Palace (Šiauliai) 276 Birštonas Jazz 261
Altja 13, 111, 113 Aušra Museum (Šiauliai) 276 Birutuės Hill (Palanga) 286
Alūksne 203 Aviation Museum (Rīga) 160 Biržai 268
Alunāns, Juris 195 restaurants 328
Alytupis river 260 B Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 92
Alytus 253, 260–61 Babrungėnai 282 Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98
hotels 305 Bach, J S 184 Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12
restaurants 328 Baer, Karl Ernst von 119 Black Knight 197
Amber 30–31 statue (Tartu) 119, 121 Black Nights Film Festival (Tallinn) 53
Amber Museum (Palanga) 31, 286 Ballet Blackheads see Brotherhood of
The Amber Route 31 Estonia 344, 345 Blackheads
amber-catchers 30 Rīga 350, 351 Blacksmiths’ Museum (Klaipėda) 284
in folklore 31 Tallinn 346, 347 Blaumanis, Rūdolfs 27
formation of 30 Vilnius 354, 355 Blue Hills (Zilie kalni) 177
shops in Latvia 337, 339 Ballivi, Johann 71 Blūmentāls, Arvīds 176
shops in Lithuania 340–41, 342 Balloon flights (Vilnius) 393 Bobsleigh Run (Sigulda) 190
Ambulances 369 Baltic Beach (Curonian Spit) 288 Bogdanas, Konstantinas 242
Amenda, Karl 182 Baltic crusade 35 Bonaparte, Napoleon see Napoleon I,
Ammende Villa (Pärnu) 103 Baltic Klint 23 Emperor
André, Edouard 286 Baltic psaltery 29 Book shops
Angel Bridge (Tartu) 120 Baltic tribes/Balts 35, 39, 253 Tallinn 335
Angla Windmills (Saaremaa) 12, 48, 97, Baltic Way 43, 230 Vilnius 343
98–9 Baltica festival 28–9 Botanical Gardens (Rīga) 159
Animism 24 Balzukevičius, Juozas 227 Brazauskas, Algirdas 219
Anna, Empress of Russia 173 Banking 370–71 Brewery tours 360, 361
Ännchen of Tharau (Klaipėda) 284 Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Brezhnev, Leonid 162
Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Barons, Krišjānis 155, 192, 195 Brigadere, Anna 171
Antiques Krišjānis Barons Memorial Museum Anna Brigadere Museum (Tērvete)
Latvia 337 (Rīga) 154–5 171
Rīga 338–9 Baroque architecture 20 Brīvzemnieks, Fricis 195
Tallinn 334–5 Baroque Vilnius 237 Brotherhood of Blackheads
Vilnius 343 Baroque Music Festival (Tallinn) 53 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 143, 150,
Anykščiai 269 Bars and pubs 308 152
hotels 305 Latvia 349, 351 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70
restaurants 328 Baryshnikov, Mikhail 27 Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 68, 69
GENERAL INDEX 395
Brotherhood of the Sword 36, 54, 192, Castles and fortifications (cont.) Čepkeliai Reserve 260
195 Tallinn city walls 65, 66 Cēsis 14, 138, 187, 191, 192–3
Brothers Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Tallinn Gate (Pärnu) 102 festivals 136
Bunka, Jacob 281 Taurapilis (Aukštaitija National Park) Chagin, Nikolai 227, 232
Burbiškis Manor 278 270 Chaim Frenkel Villa (Šiauliai) 276
Bureaux de change 370 Toompea Castle (Tallinn) 12, 54, 72, 74 Chapels
Buses Trakai Island Castle 11, 16, 207, 253, Chapel of the Holy Queens (Sts Peter
Estonia 378 256–7, 266–7 and Paul, Vilnius) 246
Rīga 386, 387 Turaīda Castle 186, 190, 192 Chapel of the Holy Stairs (Friary of the
Tallinn 380, 381 Uldevena Castle (Lielvārde) 197 Blessed Virgin Mary, Tytuvėnai) 278
Vilnius 392, 393 Upper Castle (Vilnius) 16, 224, 230 Chapel of St Ursula (Sts Peter and
Business hours 365 Vao Stronghold Tower Museum Paul, Vilnius) 247
Buxhoevden, Bishop Albert von 138, (Väike-Maarja) 117 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 235,
143, 146 Vastseliina Castle 125 239
Veliuona fort-hill 279 Rainiai Chapel of Suffering 280
C Ventspils Castle 14, 15, 180 St Casimir’s Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
Čakste, Janis 161 Vytautas Castle Hill (Birštonas) 261 207, 224, 229, 237, 238, 247
Calvary Church of the Holy Cross Cat Museum (Šiauliai) 277 Valevičius Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
(Vilnius) 249 Cathedral Hill (Tartu) see Toomemägi 228
Camp sites 294, 295 Cathedral Square (Rīga) 143 Charles XI of Sweden 37
Canoeing 359 Cathedral Square (Vilnius) 230 Charles XII of Sweden 37, 55
Cape Kolka 177 Cathedrals Children
hotels 301 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) in hotels 295
restaurants 322 12, 24, 58, 72, 74 in restaurants 309
Capital Days (Vilnius) 213 Cathedral of Christ the King travelling with 367
Car hire (Panevėžys) 268 Choral Synagogue (Vilnius) 243
Estonia 379 Cathedral ruins (Tartu) 121 Choral Synagogue Ruins (Rīga) 40, 158
Latvia 385 Cathedral of St Anthony of Padua Christianity
Lithuania 391 (Telšiai) 280 in Estonia 50, 54
Vilnius 393 Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin introduction of 36
Casimir, St 229 (Tallinn) 73, 74–5 in Latvia 134
Casinos (Rīga) 351 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe in Lithuania 210, 214, 217, 273
Castello, Matteo 247 (Daugavpils) 15, 200 Christmas 137, 213
Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christmas, Battle of 139
Castle of Light (Rīga) 159 (Kaunas) 16, 263 Christmas Jazz Festival (Estonia) 53
Castles and fortifications Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christopher Summer Festival (Vilnius)
Āraiši Lake Fortress (Gauja National (Šiauliai) 276–7 212
Park) 191, 193 Dome Cathedral (Haapsalu) 12, 92 Christopher’s Guitars (Vilnius) 213
Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 14, 138, 146 Church Heritage Museum (Vilnius) 233
Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Dormition Cathedral (Kuremäe) 116 Churches
Bauska Castle 169, 170–71 Orthodox Cathedral (Rīga) 24, 155 opening hours 366
Biržai Castle 268 Orthodox Cathedral of St Simeon Aglona Basilica 15, 199
Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 12, 91, 92 and St Anna (Jelgava) 15, 170 Apparition of the Holy Mother of God
Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98 St Jacob’s Cathedral (Rīga) 147 Church (Vilnius) 245
Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12 St Joseph’s Cathedral (Liepāja) 185 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Castle Museum (Haapsalu) 92 St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral Calvary Church of the Holy Cross
Castle Museum (Klaipėda) 284 (Karosta) 2–3, 185 (Vilnius) 249
Cēsis Castle Complex 193 Vilnius Cathedral 16, 207, 224, 228–9 Church of the Annunciation
Daugavpils Fortress 15, 201 Catherine I, Empress of Russia 80, 81, 83 (Kretinga) 286
Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Catherine II (the Great), Empress of Church of the Apparition of the
Ivangorod Castle 108 Russia 38, 170, 173, 279 Blessed Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 279
Jaunpils Castle 15, 174 Catholicism 24, 25 Church of the Ascension (Raseiniai)
Kaunas Castle 16, 262 Cats’ House (Rīga) 149 279
Kernavė medieval ramparts and Caves Church of the Birth of the Mother of
fortifications 258 Devil’s Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 God (Daugavpils) 200
Kiek-in-de-Kök (Tallinn) 65, 72, 75 Gutmana Cave 191 Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Krāslava Castle 198 Liv Sacrificial Caves (near Salacgrīva) (Kalvarija) 261
Krustpils Castle (Jēkabpils) 198 194 Church of the Friary of the Blessed
Kuressaare Castle 20 Maiden’s Cave (Taevaskoja) 126 Virgin Mary (Tytuvėnai) 278
Lihula Castle 95 Mara’s Cave (near Sabile) 182 Church of the Holy Cross (Šedura)
Liškiava Castle 260 Peter’s Cave (Sigulda) 192 278
Livonian Order Castle (Dobele) 171 Riežupe Sand Caves (near Kuldīga) Church of the Holy Spirit (Vilnius) 25,
Livonian Order Castle (Dundaga) 176 183 237, 238
Livonian Order Castle (Koknese) 197 Werewolf Pine Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 Church of the Holy Trinity (Kaunas)
Lower Castle (Vilnius) 224, 230 Cemeteries 262
Narva Castle 47, 116, 117 Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Church of the Holy Trinity (Vilnius)
New Castle (Sigulda) 190, 192 Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161 238
Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264 Karaim Cemetery (Trakai) 257 Church of Jesus (Rīga) 158
Nunna, Sauna and Kuldjala towers Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170 Church of the Nativity of the Blessed
(Tallinn) 65 Rainis Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 278–9
Paide Castle Tower 117 Rasos Cemetery (Vilnius) 248 Church of the Resurrection (Kaunas)
Palace Tower (Tukums) 175 Rīga cemeteries 161 264
Panemunė Castle 279 Vācu Karavīru Kapi (near Saldus) 183 Church of St Anne (Vilnius) 20, 225,
Põltsamaa Castle 117 Woodlands Cemetery (Rīga) 161 232–3
Powder Tower (Rīga) 149 Central Lithuania 252–71 Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 16, 234,
Punia hill fort 261 hotels 305–6 236
Rakvere Castle 116 map 254–5 Church of St Catherine (Vilnius) 237,
Raudonė 279 restaurants 328–30 241
Rīga Castle 147 travel 255 Church of St George (Kaunas) 262
St Jacob’s Barracks (Rīga) 148 Central Market (Rīga) 159 Church of St John (Vilnius) 237
396 GENERAL INDEX
Churches (cont.) Cinema (cont.) Dairy produce 311

Church of St Michael (Kaunas) 264 film festivals 53, 212, 213 Daliņš, Jānis 27
Church of St Michael (Marijampolė) Latvia 349 Dance 27
261 Lithuania 353 Estonia 344, 345
Church of St Michael (Vilnius) 233 Rīga 351 Rīga 350, 351
Church of St Nicholas (Vilnius) 240 Tallinn 347 Tallinn 346, 347
Church of St Paraskeva (Vilnius) 16, Vilnius 355 Vilnius 354, 355
227 Cinema Spring (Vilnius) 212 Dannenstern House (Rīga) 151
Church of St Stanislav (Beržovas) 282 Cīrulis, Ansis 193 Danse Macabre (Notke) 68, 69
Church of St Theresa (Vilnius) 235, Čiurlionis, Mikalojus Konstantinas 26, Dargis, Alfonsas 280
237, 238, 247 27, 211, 248, 265 Darius, Steponas 264
Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Vilnius) Čiurlionis House (Vilnius) 236 Darwin, Charles 119
246–7 Čiurlionis Memorial Museum Dārziņš, Emīls 203
Church of the Transfiguration of Our (Druskininkai) 259 Dauderi (Rīga) 14, 160
Lord (Tallinn) 70 M K Čiurlionis Art Museum (Kaunas) Daugava river 162, 194, 196, 197, 198
Dome Church (Tallinn) see Cathedral 264, 265 Daugavpils 200, 201
of St Mary the Virgin The Offering 26 Rīga 144, 145, 158, 159
Dominican Church (Vilnius) 240–41 Čiurlionis, Sofija 236 as trade route 138
Elizabeth’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Civic Art Gallery (Panevėžys) 268 Daugavpils 15, 187, 200–201
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Šilutė) Classical architecture 21 climate 33
287 Classical Music festivals 137
Franciscan Church (Vilnius) 240 Estonia 344, 345 hotels 302
Guardian Angels’ Church (Alytus) 260 Latvia 348–9 restaurants 324
Holy Mother of God Church (Vilnius) Lithuania 352, 353 Dead Dunes (Curonian Spit) 289
232 Rīga 350–51 Delaroche, Hippolyte, Portrait of Peter
Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 62, 64 Tallinn 346, 347 the Great 83
Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 15, 184 Vilnius 354, 355 Denmark, captures Tallinn 54, 59
Holy Trinity Church (Liškiava) 260 Climate 32–3 Department stores
Kaarma Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 when to visit 364 Estonia 333
Karja Church (Saaremaa) 12, 99 Clock Museum (Klaipėda) 284–5 Latvia 336, 338
Kihelkonna Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 Clothes Lithuania 340
Lutheran Church of St Nicholas shops in Rīga 338 Devil’s Bridge (Tartu) 120
(Ventspils) 181 shops in Vilnius 342 Devil’s Footprint Stone (Žemaitija
Martin Luther Church (Daugavpils) what to wear 366–7 National Park) 282
201 Clubs (Latvia) 349, 351 Devils Museum (Kaunas) 16, 264
Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 12, 63, Coach travel Dialling codes 373–5
68–9 Estonia 377 Dievturība 24
Old Believer’s Church (Lake Peipsi) 25 Latvia 383 Disabled travellers 367
Orthodox Church (Limbaži) 195 Lithuania 389 in hotels 295
Orthodox Church of St Nicholas Coastline 23 in restaurants 309
(Vilnius) 233 Communications 372–5 Discount card schemes 366
Roman Catholic Church (Preiļi) 199 Estonia 373 Diving 359
Russian Orthodox Church Latvia 374 Dobele 171
(Druskininkai) 252, 259 Lithuania 375 Dobele History Museum 171
Russian Orthodox Church of the Consulates 365 Dobele Horticultural Plant Breeding
Annunciation (Rīga) 158 Contemporary architecture 21 Experimental Station 171
Russian Orthodox Church of St Contemporary Art Centre (Vilnius) 234, Dome Cathedral (Haapsalu) 12, 92
Nikolas (Ventspils) 180 236 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 14, 138, 146
St Anne’s Basilica (Liepāja) 184 Contius, H A 184 Dome Church (Tallinn) see Cathedral of
St Catherine’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Counter-Reformation 25 St Mary the Virgin
St Catherine’s Church (Tallinn) 67 Courier services 373, 374, 375 Dominican Monastery (Tallinn) 63,
St George’s Church (Rīga) 153 Cow-Swimming Festival (Aukštaitija 67
St John’s Church (Rīga) 151, 153 National Park) 212 Dominican Church (Vilnius) 240–41
St John’s Church (Tartu) 13, 118 Crafts see Handicrafts Domšaitis, Pranas 285
St John’s Church (Vilnius) 16, 225, 226 Credit cards 370 Dormition Cathedral (Kuremäe) 116
St Mary’s Church (Ikšķile) 196 Credo International Festival of Dragonhead waterspout (Tallinn Town
St Mary’s Church (Põlva) 126 Orthodox Sacred Music (Tallinn) 53 Hall) 65
St Mary’s Church (Rõuge) 124–5 Crime 368 Drinks 312–13
St Nicholas’s Church (Kuressaare) 98 Crimean War 39 Driving
St Nicholas’s Church (Põltsamaa) 117 Cultural Centre (Põlva) 126 Estonia 377, 379
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church Culture Latvia 383, 385
(Jēkabpils) 198 Estonia 49–50 Lithuania 389, 391
St Olav’s Church (Hullo) 92, 93 Latvia 134 Rīga 386
St Olav’s Church (Tallinn) 54, 71 Lithuania 211 Tallinn 380
St Peter’s Church (Rīga) 14, 151, 153 Curonian Lagoon 288–9 Vilnius 392, 393
St Saviour’s Church (Rīga) 147 Curonian Spit 273, 274, 288–9 Drobiazko, Margarita 211
St Simon’s Church (Valmiera) 194 Curonian Spit National Park 11, 17, 209, Drubazas Botany Trail (Sabile) 182
Skaistkalne Roman Catholic Church 273, 288–9 Druskininkai 11, 17, 252, 253, 259
171 hotels 306 hotels 305
Trinapolis Church (Vilnius) 249 restaurants 330 restaurants 328
Turaida Church 192 Curonians 35 Ducal Palace (Trakai) 257
Usma Church (Latvian Ethnographic Currency 370–71 Duchy of Courland
Open-Air Museum) 163 Customs regulations 364–5 Bauska 171
Virgin Mary Catholic Church Cycling 357, 361 Ernst Johann Biron 173
(Daugavpils) 201 Latvia 383, 385 Jelgava 170
Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church Rīga 387 and Poland 37, 138, 139, 167
(Otepää) 25 Tallinn 381 Russian annexation 172
Vytautas Church (Kaunas) 263 Vilnius 393 Dundaga 176
Zapyškis Church (Kaunas) 265 Czechowicz, Szymon 238 hotels 301
see also Cathedrals; Chapels; restaurants 322
Monasteries and convents D Dunes, shifting 289
Cinema 26 Dach, Simon 284 Dunte 196
Estonia 345 Dainos (traditional songs) 28 Durbes Pils (Tukums) 175
GENERAL INDEX 397
Dutch Windmill (Latvian Ethnographic Estonian Maritime Museum (Tallinn) 71 Forest Brothers 43, 82, 117, 122, 242
Open-Air Museum) 163 Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Forests 22
Dzintari Beach (Jūrmala) 175 Design (Tallinn) 70 Biķernieki Forest 161
Dzintari Concert Hall (Jūrmala) 175 Estonian Music Days 52 forest trails (Curonian Spit National
Džiugas 280 Estonian National Library (Tallinn) 75 Park) 289
Dzūkija 253, 260, 341 Estonian National Museum (Tartu) 119 Forestry Museum (Lahemaa National
Dzūkija National Park 258–9, 260 Estonian National Opera (Tallinn) 76–7 Park) 111
Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn) Forestry Museum (Sagadi Manor) 113
E 10, 12, 85 Karšuva Forest 280
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Estonian Railway Museum (Haapsalu) Oandu Forest Nature Trail (Lahemaa
hotels 298–9 12, 92 National Park) 111, 113
map 108–9 Estonian Song and Dance Festival 39, Pokaiņi Forest 171
restaurants 318–19 50, 55, 82, 107 Rumbula Forest 162
travel 109 Estonian Youth Theatre 27 Tērvete Nature Park 171
Eastern Latvia 186–203 Ethnic mix Franciscan Church (Vilnius) 240
hotels 302–3 Estonia 49–50 Frank Zappa Statue (Vilnius) 242
map 188–9 Latvia 133–4 Freedom Monument (Rīga) 140, 142,
restaurants 324–5 Lithuania 210 154
travel 189 Ethnocosmology Centre (Molėtai) 269 Friary of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Economy The Euro 43, 51, 57, 141, 371 (Tytuvėnai) 278
Estonia 51 Europa Tower (Vilnius) 21 Fruit 311
Latvia 135 Europe Park 253, 258
Lithuania 211 European Union (EU) 43 G
Eisenstein, Mikhail 11, 156, 157 Estonia 49, 51, 57 Gaigalaitė, Nijolė Ona, Jūratė kaj Kastytis
Eisenstein, Sergei 26 Latvia 135, 141 31
Ekesparre Boutique Hotel (Kuressaare) Lithuania 209, 210, 219 Gaiglava 202
88, 298 Evangelical Lutheran Church (Šilutė) 287 Galgaudas family 279, 280
Electrical appliances 367 Galli, Giovanni Maria 247
Elelson, Zalman 155 F Game 310
Elizabetes iela (Rīga) 156–7 Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Gandinga Hill 281
Elizabeth, Empress of Russia 83, 102 Father and Son Statue (Õun) (Tartu) Ganelin Trio 27
Elizabeth II of Great Britain 71 119 Gaon of Vilna 40
Elizabeth’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Fauna see Wildlife Gardie, Pontus de la 74
Elks 23 Feast of the Assumption 131 Garso Galerija (Vilnius) 212
Eller, Heino 66 Feldbergs, Ojars 182 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 239
Embassies 365 Ferry travel street-by-street map 234–5
Emergencies 369 Estonia 376, 377, 378, 379 Gauja National Park 131, 133, 186,
Emumägi Hill (Endla Nature Reserve) Latvia 283, 382 190–93
117 Lithuania 389 hotels 302–3
Encephalitis, tick-borne 369 Tallinn–Helsinki ferry 56, 59 itineraries 11, 14
Endla Nature Reserve 117 Festival of Female Choirs and Men’s restaurants 324
Energy Centre (Tallinn) 77 Choruses (Tukums) 175 Gauja river 190, 194
Engels, Friedrich 259 Festivals Gauja Valley 190–93
Engure see Lake Engure Estonia 52–3 Gaveikėnai Waternill (Aukštaitija
Entertainment Latvia 136–7 National Park) 271
booking and prices 344, 348, 352 Lithuania 212–13 Gavelis, Ričardas 26
Estonia 344–7 Film see Cinema Gebhardt, Eduard von 80
information sources 344, 346, 348, Finno-Ugrians 35 Gediminas, Grand Duke 214, 216, 221,
350, 352, 354 Fire Sculptures Festival (Lithuania) 213 230
Latvia 348–51 Fire services 369 death 279
Lithuania 352–5 Fire Tower (Võsu) 112 Fire Sculptures Festival 213
Rīga 350–51 Fire-fighters’ Museum (Ainaži) 194 and the Jews 40
Tallinn 346–7 FIS Nordic World Championships 123 Gelgaudas, Antanas 279
Vilnius 354–5 Fish 310 Gelgaudas Manor (Gelgaudiškis) 280
see also Cinema; Dance; Music; Sport; Fisherman’s Daughters (Šventoji) 286 Gelgaudiškis 280
Theatre Fishing 358, 361 German community
Epiphany 213 Flag, Latvian 193 in Latvia 37, 139
Erratic boulders 22, 114 Flag Museum (Otepää) 122 under Russian rule 38
Estonia 48–127 Flora 23 German crusaders see Teutonic Knights
14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13 Lahemaa National Park 110 Gielgud, Sir John 280
climate 32–3 Soomaa National Park 105 Giotto, Daniele 232
communications 373 Fluxus 236 Girėnas, Stasys 264
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Folk festivals (Estonia) 345 Glasnost 43
economy 51 Folk legends (Lake Plateliai) 283 Glasremis (Panevėžys) 268
entertainment 344–7 Folk Music Museum (Kaunas) 263 Glass Museum (Līvāni) 198
festivals 52–3 Folk Song Park (Turaida Museum Glaubitz, Jan Krzysztof 226, 233, 237,
getting around 378–9 Reserve) 192 238, 241
history 54–7, 89, 107 Folk songs and music 28–9 Glück, Ernst 25
hotels 296–9 Lithuania 353 Ernst Glück Museum of the Bible
outdoor activities and specialist Vilnius 354, 355 (Alūksne) 203
holidays 356–61 Folklore, amber in 31 Godeliai 282
phrase book 411–12 Folklore Baltica Festival 52, 136 Gods and goddesses, Pagan 24
restaurants 314–19 Food and drink Godunov, Alexander 27
shopping 332–5 Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Golf 360, 361
society and culture 49–50 Lithuania 310–11 Gomanovics, Vladimirs 154
Tallinn 58–87 shops in Latvia 337 Gorbachev, Mikhail 43, 57, 141, 219
tourism 51 shops in Lithuania 341 Gothic architecture 20
travelling to 376–7 shops in Rīga 339 Graff, Johann Michael 173
Western Estonia 88–105 shops in Tallinn 335 Grand Duchy of Lithuania 36, 214,
Estonian Art Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80 What to drink 312–13 216–17
Estonian Drama Theatre (Tallinn) 76 see also Bars and pubs; Beer; absorbed into Russian Empire 218
Estonian History Museum (Tallinn) 20, Restaurants; Wine Battle of Grünwald 256
64, 82 Football 360 introduction of Christianity 24
398 GENERAL INDEX
Grand Duchy of Lithuania (cont.) Hippocrates 30 International Baltic Ballet Festival (Rīga)
and the Jews 40 Hirte, Valters 195 136
Kernavė 207 Historical Museum (Kriaunos) 268, 269 International Choir Festival (Tallinn) 52
Liškiava 260 Historicist architecture 21 International Festival of Modern Dance
Samogitia 273, 279 History (Kaunas) 213
Great Egg Hill see Suur Munamägi Estonia 54–7 International Folk Music Festival
Great Guild (Rīga) 149 Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania 34–43 (Koknese) 197
Great Guild Hall (Tallinn) 64 Jewish History 40–41 International Ice Sculpture Festival
Great Northern War 37, 139, 192, 197, Latvia 138–41 (Jelgava) 137
268 Lithuania 214–19 Internet 372–5
Peter the Great 83 History and Applied Arts Museum Islam 24
Great Synagogue (Vilnius) 237, 242, 243 (Preiļi) 199 Islands
Green Bridge (Vilnius) 245 History and Art Museum (Jelgava) Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85
Grieving Mother 161 170 Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281
Grünwald, Battle of 36, 209, 214, 256, History Museum (Trakai) 257 Hiiumaa Island 89, 94–5
262 History Museum of Latvia (Rīga) 147 Kihnu Island 105
Grūtas Park 259 Hitler, Adolf 219, 284 Mohni Island 113
Grybas, Vincas, Independence Statue Holocaust Memorial (Biķernieki Forest) Muhu Island 89, 95
279 161 Piirissaar Island (Lake Peipsi) 127
Grybauskaitė, Dalia 211 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 16, 242 Saaremaa Island 89, 96–9
Guardian Angels’ Church (Alytus) 260 Holy Mother of God Church (Vilnius) Vilsandi Island 89, 99
Guesthouses 293, 295 232 Vormsi Island 89, 92, 93
Gulbene, restaurants 324 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 62, 64 Itineraries 10–17
Gulbene-Alūksne Narrow-Gauge Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 15, 184 14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13
Railway 203 Holy Trinity Church (Liškiava) 260 14 Days in Latvia 11, 14–15
Gulf of Finland 110 Horse Museum (Niūronys) 269 14 Days in Lithuania 11, 16–17
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden 102, 118, Horse-riding 358, 361 Ivan the Terrible 37, 84, 192
138, 139, 160 Hospitals 369 Ivanauskaitė, Jurga 26, 211
Gutmana Cave 191 Hostels 293, 295 Ivangorod Castle 108
Hotels 292–307
H booking 292 J
Haanja 125 Central Lithuania 305–6 Jadwiga of Poland 214
Haapsalu 12, 89, 92–3 children in 294 Jakobson, Carl Robert 122
festivals 52 disabled travellers 295 Jāņa Sēta (Rīga) 151
hotels 297 Eastern Estonia 298–9 Jannsen, Johann Valdemār 103
restaurants 316 Eastern Latvia 302–3 Janskola Museum (Vecpiebalga) 203
Tchaikovsky in 93 Estonia 296–9 Järvamaa Museum (Paide) 117
Haapsalu Early Music Festival 52 hidden extras 294 Jasinskis, Jokūbas 215
Handicrafts Latvia 300–303 Jaunmoku Pils (Tukums) 175
Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Lithuania 304–7 Jaunpils Castle 15, 174
Estonia 333 luxury 292 hotels 301
Handicrafts Centre (Ludza) 203 modern 292 Jaunzeme, Inese 140
House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 prices and payment 292 Jazz and blues
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (Vilnius) 212, 236 Rīga 300–301 Latvia 349
Latgale Art and Craft Centre (Līvāni) smoking in 294–5 Lithuania 353
198 Tallinn 296–7 Rīga 350, 351
Latvia 337 tipping 292 Tallinn 346, 347
Lithuania 341 Vilnius 304–5 Vilnius 354, 355
Lithuanian cross-crafting tradition Western Estonia 297–8 Jazzkaar (Estonia) 52
284 Western Latvia 301–2 Jeckeln, Friedrich 148
Rīga 338 Western Lithuania 306–7 Jēkabpils 15, 198
Tallinn 334 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 152 restaurants 324–5
Vilnius 342–3 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70 Jelgava 15, 167, 170
Hannibal, Major-General Abram House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 festivals 137
Petrovich 227 House of Signatories (Vilnius) 227 hotels 301
Hanseatic League 36 Hullo 92, 93 restaurants 322
Cēsis 192 Hüpassaare Hiking Trail (Soomaa Jelgava Palace 15, 170, 178–9
Estonia 54 National Park) 105 Jewellery
Kaunas 263 Hurt, Jakob 119 amber 31
Köpu Lighthouse 94 shops in Rīga 338
Latvia 138 I shops in Vilnius 342–3
Limbaži 195 Ice hockey 360 Jews 24
Rīga 143 Ig Nobel Peace Prize 259 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 242
Tallinn 59 Ignalina 17, 271 Jewish history 40–41
Valmiera 194 Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant 211, Jewish Vilnius 243
Ventspils 180 269 Kalvarija 261
Harilaid Peninsula 99 Ikšķile 196 Karaim of Trakai 257
Health care 369 hotels 303 Latvia 133, 138, 141, 155, 161, 162
Hendrik, Toomas 57 restaurants 324 Lithuania 209, 219, 221
Henry IV of England 258 Iļģi 29 Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 155
Henry of Livonia 195 Imsrė river 280 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius)
Herb Day (Latvia) 136 Independence 42, 43 41, 248–9
Hiiumaa Island 10, 12, 89, 94–5 Estonia 55, 57 Plungė 281
hotels 297 Latvia 139–40, 141, 146, 154 spread from Lithuania 38
restaurants 316 Lithuania 218–19, 227, 245 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
Hiiumaa Museum (Kärdla) 94 Independence Statue (Grybas) Vidzgiris Forest 260
Hiiumaa Museum (Kassari) 95 (Raseiniai) 279 Jogaila, Grand Duke 24, 36, 214, 249
Hiking and trekking 357, 361 Indo-Europeans 35 Jõgeveste 122
Hill of Crosses (Jurgaičių village) 17, Ingatsi Bog Trail (Soomaa National John Paul II, Pope 199, 239, 277, 279
277 Park) 104 Jomas Street (Jūrmala) 174
Hill of Crosses (Kärdla) 94 Innocent III, Pope 25, 35 Joninės (St John’s Day) 212
Hill of Three Crosses (Vilnius) 231 Innocent VI, Pope 125 Jōnn, Kihnu 105
Hill of Witches (Curonian Spit) 17, 289 Intas, Dr Vaclovas 281 Jucevičius, Liudvikas Adomas 31
GENERAL INDEX 399
Juozapavičius, Antanas 260 Kihnu Island (cont.) L

Jūratė kaj Kastytis (Gaigalaite) 31 restaurants 316 Laar, Mart 57
Jurbarkas 280 Kiidjärve Watermill 13, 126 Labanoras Regional Park 269
Jūrmala 174–5 Kiidjärve–Taevaskoja Recreational Area Lāčplēšis 154, 197
hotels 301 13, 126 Lāčplēšis Day (Latvia) 137
restaurants 322 Kiipsaare Lighthouse (Saaremaa) 97, Ladakalnis Hill (Aukštaitija National
Jūrmala City Museum 174 100–101 Park) 17, 270
Juu Jääb Muhu Music Festival (Muhu Kissing Students Fountain (Tartu) 118 Lahemaa National Park 13, 47, 107, 109,
Island) 52 Kistler-Ritso Foundation 75 110–14
Kits, Elmar 119 fauna and flora 110
K Klaipėda 17, 35, 272, 273, 284–5 hotels 298
Kaali Meteor Crater (Saaremaa) 10, 13, climate 32 restaurants 318
98 festivals 212 Lais, B 66
Kaarma Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 history 42, 218, 219 Laisvės Avenue (Kaunas) 264
Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 12, 79, 80, 81, hotels 307 Lake Āraiši 191
83 restaurants 330–31 Lake Asveja 269
Kadriorg Park (Tallinn) 12, 78–81 Kmieliauskas, Antanas 221, 226, 240 Lake Baltieji 269
Kalanta, Romas 264 Knackfus, Marcin 249 Lake Baluošas 271
Kalēju iela (Rīga) 157 Knights’ House (Tallinn) 73, 75 Lake Dringis 271
Kalev 74 Knights of the Sword 214 Lake Dviragis 268
Kaliningrad 280, 284 Koguva (Muhu Island) 95 Lake Engure 176
Kalvarija 261 Kohtla Underground Mining Museum hotels 301
Kamanos State Reserve 280 10, 13, 115 restaurants 322
Kandava, hotels 301 Kohtla-Järve 107, 115 Lake Ežezers 15, 202
Kangro, Tauno 117 Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform (Tallinn) Lake Galvė 257
Kanklės 29 73 Lake Jugla 163
Kannel 29 Koidula, Lydia 39, 103 Lake Juodieji Lakajai 269
Kaplinski, Jaan 26 Lydia Koidula Museum (Pärnu) Lake Linkmenas 270
Karaim 41, 210, 245, 257 103 Lake Lubāns 15, 202
Karaim Cemetery (Trakai) 257 Kokle 29 Lake Lūkstas 280
Karaim Museum (Trakai) 257 Koknese 197 Lake Mastis 280
Kärdla 12, 94 hotels 303 Lake Orija 261
Kärdla Airport 377 Kolbe, H 102 Lake Pape Nature Reserve 185
Karja Church (Saaremaa) 12, 99 Kolka see Cape Kolka Lake Peipsi 13, 23, 25, 47, 107, 127
Karosas, Gintaras 258 Kolkja 127 Lake Plateliai 273, 274, 281, 282–3
Karosta 185 Kononeņko, Sergejs 154 folk legends 283
Karp, Raine 21 Konventa Sēta (Rīga) 151 Lake Põlva 126
Karšuva Forest 280 Kõpu Lighthouse (Hiiumaa) 10, 12, Lake Pühajärv 122
Karuskose Farm (Soomaa National 95 Lake Rāzna 202
Park) 104 Košrags 177 Lake Rõuge Suurjärv 124
Kasepää 127 Kraków 215 Lake Rubikiai 269
Käsmu Boulder Walk 13, 112, 114 Krāslava 198–9 Lake Širvėna 268
Käsmu Maritime Museum 112 hotels 303 Lake Srovinaitis 255
Käsmu Peninsula 22, 110, 112, 114 restaurants 325 Lake Talšos 277
Käsmu village 13, 112, 114 Krāslava Castle 198 Lake Tamula 125
Kassari 12, 95 Krāslava Museum 198–9 Lake Tauragnas 270
Kastaldi, Philippo 199 Kretinga 273, 286 Lake Võrtsjärv 10, 13, 122
Kaudzīte, Matīss and Reinis 203 restaurants 331 Lake Želva 269
Kaudzīte Brothers Memorial Museum Kretinga Museum 286 Lakes 23
203 Kreutzwald, Friedrich Reinhold 26, 85, Land of Blue Lakes see Latgale Lakes
Kaunas 16–17, 253, 262–5 103, 125 Landscape 22–3
climate 32 Kreutzwald Memorial Museum (Võru) Language 367
festivals 212, 213 125 Estonian 411–12
history 42, 218, 221 monument (Võru) 125 Finno-Ugric 50
hotels 306 statue 78 Latvian 413–14
restaurants 328–9 Kriaunos 268 Lithuanian 415–16
Kaunas Airport 389 Krimulda 192 Liv 167
Kaunas Castle 262 Kross, Jaan 26 Võru-Setu 124
Kaunas City Day 212 Krustpils Castle (Jēkabpils) 198 Lasnamäe (Tallinn) 85
Kaunas Jazz 212 Kuldīga 138, 167, 183 Latgale 154, 163, 187, 198–9, 202
Kaušėnai 281 hotels 301 Latgale Art and Craft Centre (Līvāni)
Kayaking 359 restaurants 322 198
Kazaks, Jēkabs 155 Kuldīga District Museum 183 Latgale Culture and History Museum
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (Vilnius) 212, 236 Kulnev, Jakov 203 (Rēzekne) 199
Kėdainiai 265 Kumu Art Museum (Tallinn) 12, 75, 79, Latgale Lakes 11, 15, 131, 202
hotels 306 80–81 Latgale Uplands 202
restaurants 329 Kuremäe 116 Latgallians 35, 187, 189
Ķemeri 174 hotels 298 Latvia 128–203
Ķemeri National Park 174 restaurants 318 14 Days in Latvia 11, 14–15
Ķemeri Park 174 Kuresoo Bog (Soomaa National Park) climate 32–3
Kenesa (Trakai) 41, 257 105 communications 374
Kernavė 35, 204–5, 207, 253, 258 Kuressaare 12, 36, 96, 98 Eastern Latvia 186–203
restaurants 329 Kuressaare Airport 377 entertainment 348–51
Kęstutis, Grand Duke 286 Kuressaare Castle 20 festivals 136–7
Kettler, Duke Gotthard 167, 183 Kurši tribe 167, 182 flag 193
Kettler, Duke Jakob 37, 139, 167, 184, Kurzeme 130, 167, 177, 182–3 getting around 384–5
198 Freedom Monument (Rīga) 154 history 133, 138–41, 167, 187
KGB Cells Museum (Tartu) 13, 16, 119 Kurzeme Peasants’ Homestead hotels 300–303
KGB Museum (Vilnius) 242 (Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air map 130–31
Kiek-in-de-Kök (Tallinn) 65, 72, 75 Museum) 163 outdoor activities and specialist
Kihelkonna Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 Kuuraniidu Study Trail (Soomaa holidays 356–61
Kihnu Island 105 National Park) 105 people 133–4
hotels 297 Kuutsemäe Ski Resort 123 phrase book 413–14
400 GENERAL INDEX
Latvia (cont.) Lithuania (cont.) Magnus, Duke, King of Livonia 117

politics and economy 134–5 hotels 304–7 Maiden’s Cave (Taevaskoja) 126
restaurants 320–25 modern life 211 Maironis see Mačiulis, Jonas
shopping 336–9 outdoor activities and specialist Makkabi Sports Association 41
society and culture 134 holidays 356–61 Mākoņkalns 202
tourism 135 phrase book 415–16 Malinauskas, Viliumas 259
travelling to 382–3 politics 210–11 Manitsky, Jaan 113
Western Latvia 166–85 restaurants 326–31 Männikjärve Trail (Endla Nature
Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air shopping 340–43 Reserve) 117
Museum 14, 134, 163, 185 travelling to 388–9 Manor houses
Latvian National Museum of Art (Rīga) Western Lithuania 272–89 Burbiškis Manor 278
155 Lithuanian Baroque 247 Durbes Pils (Tukums) 175
Latvian National Opera 136 Lithuanian Minor History Museum Gelgaudas Manor (Gelgaudiškis)
Latvian National Theatre (Rīga) 21 (Klaipėda) 284 280
Latvian Railway Museum (Jelgava) 170 Lithuanian Narrow-Gauge Railway 269 Jaunmoku Pils (near Tukums) 175
Latvian Riflemen Monument (Rīga) 152 Lithuanian National Museum (Vilnius) Palmse Manor House (Lahemaa
Latvian Road Museum (Tukums) 175 16, 230–31 National Park) 13, 111, 112
Latvian Song and Dance Festival (Rīga) Littera Bookshop (Vilnius) 225, 226, Pedvāle Manor 182
136, 139, 161 240, 343 Plungė Manor 281
Latvian University of Agriculture Lituanica 264 Raudondvaris (Kaunas) 265
(Jelgava) 170 Līvāni 198 Raudondvaris (Šeduva) 278
Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149 Livonia 36, 37, 215 Rokiškis Manor House 208, 268
Laukasoo Reserve (Lahemaa National The Livonian Coast 177 Sagadi Manor (Lahemaa National
Park) 110 Livonian Festival (Cēsis) 136 Park) 13, 111, 113
Laumas Nature Park 182 Livonian Order 35 Salos Manor House 269
Le Wit, Sol 258 Cēsis 136, 192 Sangaste Manor 107, 124
Lean, Mae 285 collapse of 167 Suuremõisa Manor (Hiiumaa Island)
Left Bank (Rīga) 158, 159 Daugavpils 200 12, 94–5
Lemmjõgi River Spit Forest Trail Dobele 171 Mans’s Gallery (Jēkabpils) 198
(Soomaa National Park) 105 Dundaga 176 Maps
Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich 152, 259 Jaunpils Castle 174 Amber Route 31
Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Tallinn) Klaipėda 284 Aukštaitija National Park 270–71
376, 377 Koknese 197 Curonian Spit National Park 288–9
Lettgallians 187 Kuldīga 183 Daugavpils 201
Lielais Liepukalns 202 Latvia 187 Estonia: Eastern Estonia 108–9
Lielupe river 167, 170 Rīga 147, 152, 153 Estonia: Western Estonia 90–91
Lielvārde 197 Sigulda 190, 192 Estonia at a Glance 46–7
restaurants 325 Tallinn 74 Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania on the
Liepāja 15, 135, 167, 184–5 Talsi 182 Map 18–19
climate 32 Tērvete Nature Park 171 Gauja National Park 190–91
festivals 136 Tukums 175 Grand Duchy of Lithuania 216
history 39 Valmiera 194 Hiiumaa Island 94
hotels 302 Ventspils Castle 14, 180 Jūrmala 174–5
restaurants 322–3 Livonian Wars 37, 55, 95, 138, 198 Käsmu Boulder Walk 114
Liepāja Airport 383 Brotherhood of Blackheads 70 Kaunas 262–3
Liepāja Beach 185 Lithuania 215 Klaipėda 285
Liepāja Museum 185 Tartu 120 Lahemaa National Park 110–11
Lieven, Charlotte von 170 Livs 153 Lake Peipsi 127
Līgatne Education and Recreation coast-dwelling 176 Latgale Lakes 202
Centre (Gauja National Park) 14, 191, Eastern Latvia 187, 192, 196 Latvia: Eastern Latvia 188–9
193 Liv Sacrificial Caves (near Salacgrīva) Latvia: Western Latvia 168–9
Lighthouses 194 Latvia at a glance 130–31
Kiipsaare Lighthouse (Saaremaa) 97, Paganism 24 Liepāja 184
100–101 Talsi 182 Lithuania: Central Lithuania 254–5
Kõpu Lighthouse (Hiiumaa) 10, 12, 95 Western Latvia 167 Lithuania: Western Lithuania 274–5
Pakri Lighthouse 92 Local History Museum (Pāvilosta) 183 Lithuania at a glance 206–7
Ristna Lighthouse (Hiiumaa) 95 Local History Museum (Tukums) 175 Livonian Coast 177
Slītere Lighthouse 177 Lomonosov, M, Battle of Poltava 37 Pärnu 103
Vilsandi Lighthouse 99 Lower Castle (Vilnius) 224, 230 Rīga: Around Town Hall Square street-
Lihula 95 Lublin, Union of 214, 215 by-street 150–51
Lihula Museum 95 Ludza 15, 203 Rīga: Art Nouveau Architecture 156–7
Lilienfeld, Paul 183 hotels 303 Rīga: city maps 387
Limbaži 195 Lühike jalg (Tallinn) 65 Rīga: Exploring Rīga 144–5
hotels 303 Lutheran Church of St Nicholas Rīga: Further Afield 158
restaurants 325 (Ventspils) 181 Rīga: Street Finder 164–5
Linaküla 105 Lutheranism 25 Road map of Estonia, Latvia and
Lipke, Žanis 158 Luxury hotels 292 Lithuania see back endpaper
Lipschitz, Jacques, Jacques Lipchitz Saaremaa Island 96–7
Museum (Druskininkai) 259 M Šiauliai 276
Liqueurs 312 Maarjamäe Palace (Tallinn) 82 Soomaa National Park 104–5
Liškiava 260 Macikai 287 Tallinn: Around Town Hall Square
Literature 26 Macikai Concentration Camp Museum street-by-street 62–3
Lithuania 204–89 287 Tallinn: Beyond the Old Town 76
14 Days in Lithuania 11, 16–17 Mačiulis, Jonas 26, 263 Tallinn: Exploring Tallinn 60–61
Central Lithuania 252–71 Maciunas, George 236 Tallinn: Street Finder 86–7
climate 32–3 Madernieks, Jūlijs 153 Tallinn: Toompea street-by-street
communications 375 The Madonna of Mercy (Vilnius) 239 72–3
economy 211 Mäetamm, Marko 119 Tartu 118
entertainment 352–5 Magazines, listings 344, 354, 372 Tartu: Toomemägi street-by-street
ethnic and religious diversity 210 Lithuania 352 120–21
festivals 212–13 Rīga 350 Ventspils 180–81
getting around 390–91 Tallinn 346 Vilnius: Exploring Vilnius 222–3
history 209, 214–19, 253, 273 Mägi, Konrad 80 Vilnius: Further Afield 244
GENERAL INDEX  401
Maps (cont.) Modernist architecture 21 Museums and galleries (cont.)

Vilnius: Pilies Street and Vilnius Mohni Island 113 Dauderi (Rīga) 14, 160
University street-by-street 224–5 Molėtai Lakelands 269 Devils Museum (Kaunas) 16, 264
Vilnius: Street Finder 250–51 hotels 306 Dobele History Museum 171
Vilnius: Town Hall Square to the Gates Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact 42, 56, 140, Dominican Monastery Museum
of Dawn street-by-street 234–5 219 (Tallinn) 67
Žemaitija National Park 282–3 Monasteries and convents Eduard Vilde Memorial Museum
Mara’s Cave (near Sabile) 182 Basilian Monastery (Vilnius) 235, 237 (Tallinn) 78, 81
Marcinkonys 258, 260 Dominican Monastery (Tallinn) 63, 67 Energy Centre (Tallinn) 77
Marienbāde Sanitarium (Jūrmala) 174 Friary of the Blessed Virgin Mary Ernst Glück Museum of the Bible
Marijampolė 253, 261 (Tytuvėnai) 278 (Alūksne) 203
hotels 306 Konventa Sēta (Rīga) 151 Estonian Art Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80
restaurants 329 Pažaislis Monastery (Kaunas) 16, 20, Estonian History Museum (Tallinn) 20,
Markets 265 64, 82
Estonia 332–3 Pirita Convent (Tallinn) 84 Estonian Maritime Museum (Tallinn)
Latvia 336 Pühtitsa Convent (Kuremäe) 116 71
Lithuania 341 St Michael’s Convent (Tallinn) 70 Estonian Museum of Applied Art and
Rīga 338 Mõniste Open-Air Museum 124 Design (Tallinn) 70
Tallinn 334 Moniuszko, Stanislaw 241 Estonian National Museum (Tartu)
Vilnius 342 Monument to Freedom Fighters 119
Martin Luther Church (Daugavpils) 201 (Tukums) 175 Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn)
Marx, Karl 259 Monument to Livonian Culture 10, 12, 85
Matejko, Jan 214, 217 (Mazirbe) 176 Estonian Railway Museum (Haapsalu)
Battle of Grünwald 34, 216–17 Moodysson, Lukas 92 12, 92
Matsalu Bay 93 Morbergs’ Summer Cottage (Jūrmala) Ethnocosmology Centre (Molėtai)
Matsalu National Park 89, 93, 95 175 269
hotels 297 Moscow Suburb (Rīga) 158 Fire fighters’ Museum (Ainaži) 194
restaurants 316 Mosėdis 281 Flag Museum (Otepää) 122
Matsalu Nature Centre 93 Mother Latvia (Zāle) 161 Folk Music Museum (Kaunas) 263
Matsalu Nature Film Festival (Estonia) Motor Museum (Rīga) 162 Forestry Museum (Lahemaa National
53 Motorcycling (Latvia) 385 Park) 111
Matulaitis, Bishop Jurgis 261 Mound of Šarnelė 283 Forestry Museum (Sagadi Manor) 113
Mažeikiai 211, 280 Mount Rambynas 280 Glasremis (Panevėžys) 268
Mažeikiai Museum 280 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 182 Glass Museum (Līvāni) 198
Mazirbe 176, 177 Muhu Island 89, 95 Hiiumaa Museum (Kärdla) 94
Mazsalaca 195 hotels 297 Hiiumaa Museum (Kassari) 95
festivals 137 restaurants 316–17 Historical Museum (Kriaunos) 268,
Mazsalaca Regional Museum 195 Multicultural Centre (Kėdainiai) 265 269
Mažvydas, Martynas 285 Munch, Edvard 285 History and Applied Arts Museum
Catechism 217 Münchhausen, Karl Friedrich (Preiļi) 199
Meat 310 Hieronymus von, Münchausen History and Art Museum (Jelgava)
Media 372 Museum (Dunte) 196 170
Medieval architecture 65 Muravyov, Mikhail 233 History Museum (Trakai) 257
Medieval Festival (Trakai) 212 Mūsa river 170 History Museum of Latvia (Rīga) 147
Meiekose Hiking Trail (Soomaa Museums and galleries Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 16, 242
National Park) 105 opening hours 366 Horse Museum (Niūronys) 269
Meinhard, Bishop of Ikšķile 196 Adamson-Eric Museum (Tallinn) 75 Jacques Lipchitz Museum
Memel see Klaipėda Amber Museum (Palanga) 31, 286 (Druskininkai) 259
Mēmele river 170 Andrejs Pumpurs Museum (Lielvārde) Janis Rozentāls Museum of History
Menschikov, Prince Aleksandr 83 197 and Art (Saldus) 183
Mentzendorff House (Rīga) 14, 151, Andrejs Upīts Memorial Museum Janskola Museum (Vecpiebalga) 203
152–3 (Skrīveri) 197 Järvamaa Museum (Paide) 117
Mėnuo Juodaragis (Lithuania) 213 Anna Brigadere Museum (Tērvete Jūrmala City Museum 174
Meri, Lennart 57 Nature Park) 171 Karaim Museum (Trakai) 257
Meriküla 116 Anton Hansen Tammsaare Museum Kārlis Skalbe Museum (Vecpiebalga)
Merkinė 260 (Tallinn) 78, 81 203
Merkys river 260 Anykščiai Northern Railway Museum Käsmu Maritime Museum 112
Mērsrags 176 269 Kaudzīte Brothers Memorial Museum
Mežaparks (Rīga) 14, 158, 160–61 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 224, (Vecpiebalga) 203
Mežotne Palace 170 231 Kazys Varnelis Museum (Vilnius) 239
hotels 302 Arsenal Museum of Art (Rīga) 148 KGB Cells Museum (Tartu) 13, 119
restaurants 323 Art Museum Rīga Bourse 147 KGB Museum (Vilnius) 16, 242
Michetti, Nicola 80 Art Nouveau Museum (Rīga) 156 Kohtla Underground Mining
Mickevičius-Kapsukas, Vincas 259 Ates Mill Museum (Umernieki) 203 Museum 10, 13, 115
Mickiewicz, Adam 233, 235, 238 Aušra Museum (Šiauliai) 276 Krāslava Museum 198–9
Mickiewicz Museum (Vilnius) 233 Aviation Museum (Rīga) 160 Kretinga Museum 286
statue (Vilnius) 232, 233 Beekeeping Museum (Aukštaitija Kreutzwald Memorial Museum (Võru)
Midsummer 136 National Park) 270, 271 125
Midsummer’s Eve (Jaanipäev) 50, 52 Bicycle Museum (Saulkrasti) 196 Krišjānis Barons Memorial Museum
Mihkli Farm Museum (Viki) 97, 99 Bicycle Museum (Šiauliai) 276 (Rīga) 154–5
Mikkel, Johannes, Mikkel Museum Blacksmiths’ Museum (Klaipėda) 284 Kristjan Raud Museum (Tallinn) 85
(Tallinn) 79, 80 Castle of Light (Rīga) 159 Kuldīga District Museum 183
Mikytai Hill (Žematija National Park) Castle Museum (Haapsalu) 12, 92 Kumu Art Museum (Tallinn) 12, 75,
282 Castle Museum (Klaipėda) 284 79, 80–81
Military Prison (Karosta) 185 Cat Museum (Šiauliai) 277 Latgale Art and Craft Centre (Līvāni)
Mill-Gallery (Babrungėnai) 282 Church Heritage Museum (Vilnius) 233 198
Miłosz, Czesław 26 Čiurlionis House (Vilnius) 236 Latgale Culture and History Museum
Mindaugas, Duke 36, 214, 230, 253 Čiurlionis Memorial Museum (Rēzekne) 199
Minibuses (Druskininkai) 259 Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air
Rīga 386 Civic Art Gallery (Panevėžys) 268 Museum (Rīga) 14, 134, 163, 185
Tallinn 380, 381 Clock Museum (Klaipėda) 17, 284–5 Latvian National Museum of Art
Minija 287 Contemporary Art Centre (Vilnius) (Rīga) 155
Mobile phones 372–5 234, 236 Latvian Railway Museum (Jelgava) 170
402  GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) National Awakening Movement
Latvian Road Museum (Milzkalne) 175 Picture Gallery and Sculpture Park (Latvia) 139, 195
Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149 (Klaipėda) 17, 285 National Library (Tallinn) 21
Liepāja Museum 185 Põltsamaa Museum 117 National Library of Latvia (Rīga) 159
Lihula Museum 95 Porcelain Museum (Rīga) 153 National parks
Līthuania Minor History Museum Pushkin Museum (Vilnius) 248 Aukštaitija National Park 11, 17, 212,
(Klaipėda) 284 Railway Museum (Rīga) 159 255, 270–71
Lithuanian National Museum (Vilnius) Rīga Castle 147 Curonian Spit National Park 11, 17,
16, 230–31 Rīga Ghetto Museum 158 273, 288–9
Local History Museum (Pāvilosta) 183 Rokiškis Museum 268, 269 Dzūkija National Park 258–9, 260
Local History Museum (Tukums) 175 Rumšiškės Open-Air Museum 16–17, Gauja National Park 11, 14, 131, 133,
Lydia Koidula Museum (Pärnu) 103 265 186, 187, 190–93
M K Čiurlionis Art Museum (Kaunas) Saaremaa Regional Museum Ķemeri National Park 174
264, 265 (Kuressaare) 98 Laahemaa National Park 13, 110–14
Macikai Concentration Camp Sea Museum (Smiltynė) 286–7 Lahemaa National Park 107, 109
Museum 287 Sea-Fishing Museum (Roja) 176 Matsalu National Park 89, 93, 95
Mans’s Gallery (Jēkabpils) 198 Seaside Open-Air Museum (Ventspils) Slītere National Park 177
Mark Rothko Art Centre (Daugavpils) 15, 181 Soomaa National Park 89, 90, 104–5
15, 201 Sėla Museum (Biržai) 268 Vilsandi National Park 12, 96, 99
Mažeikiai Museum 280 Setu Village Museum (Värska) 127 Žemaitija National Park 273, 274, 281,
Mazsalaca Regional Museum 195 Šilutė Museum 287 282–3
Mickiewicz Museum (Vilnius) 233 Šlapelis House Museum (Vilnius) 227 National Romanticism 156, 157
Mihkli Farm Museum (Viki) 97, 99 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242 Nationalist movements 38–9
Mikkel Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80 Tallinn City Museum 12, 62, 65, 67 NATO 43, 49, 57, 141, 210, 219
Mill-Gallery (Babrungėnai) 282 Talsi Regional Museum 182 Nattier, Jean-Marc, Portrait of Catherine I
Mõniste Open-Air Museum 124 Tartu Art Museum 13, 119 83
Motor Museum (Rīga) 162 Tauras District Partisans and Nature reserves
Multicultural Centre (Kėdainiai) 265 Deportation Museum (Marijampolė) Čepkeliai Reserve 260
Münchausen Museum (Dunte) 196 261 Endla Nature Reserve 117
Museum of Architecture (Rīga) 147 Tērvete History Museum 171 Kamanos State Reserve 280
Museum of Art and History (Cēsis) 193 Theatre, Music and Film Museum Lake Pape Nature Reserve 185
Museum of the Barricades of 1991 (Vilnius) 241 Laukasoo Reserve (Lahemaa National
(Rīga) 14, 146 Tukums Art Museum 175 Park) 110
Museum of Coastal Swedes Turaida Museum Reserve 190, 191, Laumas Nature Park (near Talsi) 182
(Haapsalu) 93 192 Naval College Museum (Ainaži) 194
Museum of Decorative Arts and Väike-Maarja Museum 117 Nazi occupation see World War II
Design (Rīga) 153 Vao Stronghold Tower Museum Nekrošius, Eimuntas 27, 211
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Väike-Maarja) 117 Nemunas Delta 273, 287
(Tallinn) 77 Viinistu Art Museum 113 hotels 307
Museum of Estonian Photography Vilnius Picture Gallery 227 restaurants 331
(Tallinn) 63, 66 Vītolnieki (Pape village) 185 Nemunas river 35
Museum of Genocide Victims see KGB Vytautas the Great War Museum Central Lithuania 259, 260, 261, 262
Museum (Kaunas) 16, 264 Kaunas 262, 263, 265
Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 41, Žemaičiai Art Museum (Plungė) 281 Napoleon’s army crosses 218
155 Mushrooms 23 Western Lithuania 273, 279, 280
Museum of Local History (Ludza) 203 Mushroom Festival (Varėna) 213, 258 Neo-Baroque architecture 21
Museum of Local Lore (Alytus) 260, mushroom picking 311, 359, 361 Neo-Classical architecture 21
261 Music 27 Neris river 204–5, 207, 245, 262
Museum of Local Studies (Valmiera) Estonia 344–5 Nevsky, Alexander 74
194 Latvia 348–9 New Baltic Dance (Vilnius and
Museum of Local Studies and Art Lithuania 352–3 Klaipėda) 212
(Alūksne) 203 Rīga 350, 351 New Music Festival Arena (Rīga) 137
Museum of the Occupation of Latvia Tallinn 346, 347 New Years’ Eve 213
(Rīga) 14, 150, 152 Vilnius 354–5 Nīca
Museum of Occupations (Tallinn) 75 Music festivals hotels 302
Museum of Regional Studies Estonia 52–3, 344 restaurants 323
(Limbaži) 195 Latvia 136–7 Nicholas I, Tsar 181
Museum of Regional Studies and Arts Lithuania 212, 213, 353 Nicholas II, Tsar 92
(Daugavpils) 200 Music shops Nicholas, St 68
Museum of Rīga’s History and Rīga 338 Nida 17, 273, 288
Navigation 14, 146 Tallinn 335 Nightlife
Museum of Theatre and Music Vilnius 343 Estonia 344–5
(Tallinn) 66 Music Theatre (Kaunas) 264 Latvia 349
Museum to the Victims of Fascism Musical Instruments Workshop Lithuania 353
(Kaunas) 264 (Gaiglava) 202 Rīga 351
Museum of Unique Rocks (Mosėdis) Mussolini, Benito 42, 140 Tallinn 346–7
281 Mustvee 13, 127 Vilnius 355
Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery (Kaunas) Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 12, 63, 68–9
264 N Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170
Narva Museum 116 Napoleon I, Emperor 38, 218, 225, 226, Nikon, Patriarch 24, 126
Naval College Museum (Ainaži) 194 236 Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264
Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5 Kaunas 262 Niūronys 269
P Čerņavskis Pottery Workshop- retreat 241 Nõmme (Tallinn) 85
Museum (Preiļi) 199 Narva 13, 47, 107, 116 Nool, Erki 27
Pauls Stradiņš Museum of the History history 37, 55 Notke, Berndt 69
of Medicine (Rīga) 156 restaurants 318 Danse Macabre 68, 69
Pedvāle Open-Air Museum 182 Narva, Battle of 83 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 64
Peter the Great House Museum Narva Castle 116, 117 Nukša, Mārtiņš 157
(Tallinn) 12, 79, 81, 83 Narva Museum 116 Nyländer, N 66
Pharmacy Museum (Kaunas) 262–3 Narva-Jõesuu 116 Nystadt, Treaty of 55, 83
Pharmacy Museum (Viekšniai) 280 hotels 298
Photography Museum (Rīga) 154 National Awakening Movement O
Photography Museum (Šiauliai) 276 (Estonia) 122 Oandu 113
Oandu Beaver Trail (Lahemaa National Palaces (cont.) Patkuli Viewing Platform (Tallinn) 12, 73
Park) 113 Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 12, 79, 80, Päts, Konstantin 56
Oandu Forest Nature Trail (Lahemaa 81, 83 Pāvilosta 15, 183
National Park) 111, 113 Maarjamäe Palace (Tallinn) 82 hotels 302
Obinitsa 124, 125 Mežotne Palace 170 restaurants 323
Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5 Presidential Palace (Vilnius) 224, 226 Pāvilosta Marina 15, 183
The Offering (Čiurlionis) 26 Radvila Palace (Vilnius) 241 Pažaislis Monastery (Kaunas) 16, 20,
Oginskis, Mykolas 281 Royal Palace (Vilnius) 16, 217, 224, 230 265
Oil-shale mining 107, 115 Rundāle Palace 11, 15, 130, 166, 167, Pažaislis Music Festival (Kaunas) 212
Olav II of Norway 71 172–3 Pedvāle Manor 182
Old Believers 24–5, 47, 107, 126, 127, Tyszkiewicz Palace (Palanga) 286 Pedvāle Open-Air Museum 182
198, 200, 210 Verkiai Palace (Vilnius) 249 Pekšēns, Konstantīns 156
Old Believer’s Church (Lake Peipsi) 25 Palanga 17, 206, 273, 286 Perestroika 43
Old Believers’ House (Latvian hotels 307 Perkūnas House (Kaunas) 20, 263
Ethnographic Open-Air Museum) 163 restaurants 331 Personal security 368–9
Old Town Christmas Market (Rīga) 137 Palanga Airport 389 Perti, Pietro 247
Old Town Christmas Market (Tallinn) 53 Paldiski 89, 92 Peter the Great 37, 38, 55, 83
Old Town Hall (Kaunas) 16, 21, 262 hotels 297 Biržai 268
Old Town Medieval Market (Tallinn) 53 restaurants 317 Church of St Paraskeva (Vilnius) 227
Õllesummer Festival (Tallinn) 52–3 Palloni, Michelangelo 247, 265 gains Estonia 89
Olympic Games Palmse Manor House (Lahemaa gains Latvia 139
Estonia 56–7 National Park) 13, 111, 112 hand print 231
Latvia 140 Palusalu, Krištjān 27 Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 78, 79, 80
Lithuania 211 Palūšė 270 Paldiski 92
Winter Olympics 123 Panemunė 279 Peter the Great House Museum
Ontika Coast 13, 107, 115 Paneriai 242, 248–9 (Tallinn) 12, 79, 81, 83
hotels 298 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius) portrait (Delaroche) 83
restaurants 318 41, 248–9 St Peter’s Church (Rīga) 153
Öördi Hiking Trail (Soomaa National Panevėžys 254, 268 Tallinn 59
Park) 105 hotels 306 Peter the GreatmKadriorg Park (Tallinn)
Opening hours restaurants 329 78
banks 370 Pankoks, Mikelis 185 Pharmacies 369
monuments, churches and historic Panso, Voldemar 27 Pharmacy Museum (Kaunas) 262–3
sights 366 Paralepa Beach (Haapsalu) 92 Pharmacy Museum (Viekšniai) 280
shops 332, 336, 340 Pārispea Peninsula 113 Photographers 26
Opera Parking Photography Museum (Rīga) 154
Estonian National Opera (Tallinn) Rīga 386 Photography Museum (Šiauliai) 276
76–7 Tallinn 380–81 Phrase books
Latvia 348–9 Vilnius 392 Estonian 411–12
Rīga 350, 351 Parks and gardens Latvian 413–14
Tallinn 346, 347 Bastejkalns (Rīga) 154 Lithuanian 415–16
Vilnius 354, 355 Botanical Gardens (Rīga) 159 Piano Stars (Liepāja) 136
Operation Barbarossa 219 Europe Park 253, 258 Pickpockets 368
Oppenheim, Dennis 258 Folk Song Park (Turaida Museum Picture Gallery (Klaipėda) 285
Orchids 23 Reserve) 192 Piiri Tavern (Vasteliina) 125
Orlov-Davydov, Count 82 Grūtas Park 259 Piirissaar Island (Lake Peipsi) 127
Ornithological Centre (Lake Engure) Kadriorg Park (Tallinn) 12, 78–81 Pikk Hermann Tower (Tallinn) 74
176 Ķemeri Park 174 Pikk Jalg Gate Tower (Tallinn) 73
Orthodox Cathedral (Rīga) 24, 155 Labanoras Regional Park 269 Pikk Street (Tallinn) 71
Orthodox Cathedral of St Simeon and Līgatne Education and Recreation Pilies Street (Vilnius) 16, 222
St Anna (Jelgava) 15, 170 Centre (Gauja National Park) 14, 191, street-by-street 224–5
Orthodox Christianity 24–5 193 Piłsudski, Józef 218, 248
Orthodox Church (Limbaži) 195 Oru Park (Toila) 115 Pirita Convent (Tallinn) 84
Orthodox Church of St Nicholas Orvidas Garden 281 Pirita river 84
(Vilnius) 233 Sculpture Park (Klaipėda) 285 Pirita Yachting Centre (Tallinn) 57
Oru Park (Toila) 115 Seaside Park (Liepāja) 15, 185 Plateliai 281, 282
Orvidas, Vilius 281 Tallinn Botanical Gardens 12, 84–5 Pliekšāns, Janis 161
Orvidas Garden 281 Tērvete Nature Park 171 Plokštinė Former Soviet Missile Base
Otepää 54, 107, 122 Tree Park (Skrīveri) 197 283
hotels 299 Victory Park (Rīga) 159 Plungė 281
restaurants 318 Vingis Park (Vilnius) 245 hotels 307
winter sports 123 Winter Garden (Kretinga) 286 Plungė Manor 281
Õun, Ülo, Father and Son Statue (Tartu) Parliaments Poetry Spring (Vilnius) 212
119 Rīga 148 Pokaiņi Forest 171
Outdoor activites 356–61 Tallinn 74 Poland
Vilnius 245 and Duchy of Courland 37, 138, 139
P Pärn, Priit 26 rule in Latvia 187
Paberžė 265 Parnidis Dune (Curonian Spit) 17, 206, Police 368, 369
Pac, Michal Kazimierz 246 209, 288, 289 Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
Paganism 24, 35, 36 Pärnu 13, 46, 89, 90, 102–3 36–7, 214–15, 221
Estonia 50 climate 32 partitions of 215, 279
Latvia 134 festivals 52, 53 Politics
Lithuania 269, 271, 273 history 54, 55 Estonia 50
von Pahlen family 112 hotels 298 Latvia 134–5
Paide 117 map 103 Lithuania 210–11
restaurants 318 restaurants 317 Poltava, Battle of 37
Pakri 92 Pärnu Airport 377 Põltsamaa 117
Pakruojis 268 Pärnu Concert Hall 102 hotels 299
Paksas, Rolandas 210 Pärnu Contemporary Music Days 53 restaurants 318
Palaces Pärnu Hanseatic Days 52 Põltsamaa Museum 117
Aušra Avenue Palace (Šiauliai) 276 Pärnu river 102 Põlva 126
Ducal Palace (Trakai) 257 Pärt, Arvo 27, 117 hotels 299
Jelgava Palace 15, 170, 178–9 Passports 364, 365 restaurants 318
Porcelain Museum (Rīga) 153 Raudonė 279 Rokiškis 268

Portrait of Catherine I (Nattier) 83 Rāzna, hotels 303 Rokiškis Manor House 208, 268
Portrait of Peter the Great (Delaroche) 83 von der Recke family 174 Rokiškis Museum 268, 269
Portrait of Thomas Chaloner (van Dyck) Reformation 25 Roland, statue of (Rīga) 150
80 Estonia 67 Romanesque architecture 20
Positivus (Mazsalaca) 137, 349 Latvia 138 Romans 35
Postal services 372–5 Rehemaa, Rutt 123 Romeris, Alfredas 227
Poultry 310 Reinbergs, Augusts 21 Romuva 24
Povilionienė, Veronika 29 Religion 24–5 Ropp, Baron Otto von 278
Powder Tower (Rīga) 149 Estonia 50 Rose of Turaida 191, 192
Precautions, general 368 Latvia 134 Rosenberg, Alfred 56
Preiļi 199 Lithuania 210 Rotermann, Charles Abraham 77
hotels 303 Renaissance architecture 20 Rotermanni Quarter (Tallinn) 77
restaurants 325 Restaurants 308–31 Rothko, Mark 26, 200
Presidential Palace (Vilnius) 224, 226 Central Lithuania 328–30 Mark Rothko Art Centre (Daugavpils)
Prices children in 309 15, 201
entertainment 344, 348, 352 dining hours 308 Rõuge 124–5
hotels 292 disabled travellers in 309 hotels 299
restaurants 309 Eastern Estonia 318–19 Royal Palace (Vilnius) 16, 217, 224, 230
Private homes, staying in 293, 295 Eastern Latvia 324–5 Rozenberga, Elza 161, 174
Protestantism 24, 25 Estonia 314–19 Aspazija House (Jūrmala) 174
Prussia/Prussians 35, 215, 218, 253 Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Rozentāls, Janis 26, 153, 161, 176
Klaipėda 273, 284 Lithuania 310–11 Janis Rozentāls Museum of History
Public holidays Latvia 320–25 and Art 183
Estonia 53 Lithuania 326–31 Latvian National Museum of Art
Latvia 137 menus 309 (Rīga) 155
Lithuania 213 paying 309 Rubens, Peter Paul 264
Pubs see Bars and pubs reservations 309 Rumbula Forest 162
Pühtitsa Convent (Kuremäe) 116 Rīga 320–22 Rumšiškės Open-Air Museum (Kaunas)
Pumpurs, Andrejs 26, 197 smoking 309 16, 265
Andrejs Pumpurs Museum (Lielvārde) Tallinn 314–16 Rundāle Palace 38, 130, 166, 167,
197 tipping 309 172–3
Punia 261 types of 308 hotels 302
Pūrciems White Dune 177 vegetarians 309 itineraries 11, 15
Purim 40 Vilnius 326–8 restaurants 323
Purvītis, Vilhelms 155 Western Estonia 316–18 Runo (monophonic Estonian songs) 28
Pushkin, Alexander 227 Western Latvia 322–4 Rural tourism 356
Pushkin Museum (Vilnius) 248 Western Lithuania 330–31 Ruseckas, Kanutas 227
Pushkin, Grigorij 248 What to drink 312–13 Rusnė 273, 287
Pushkin, Varvara 248 Rēzekne 15, 199, 202 Russalka Memorial (Tallinn) 79, 82
Puttini, Pietro 249 hotels 303 Russian Civil War 39
restaurants 325 Russian Orthodox Church
Q Riekstiņš, Edijs 154 (Druskininkai) 252, 259
Quarenghi, Giacomo 170 Riežupe Sand Caves (near Kuldīga) 183 Russian Orthodox Church of the
Quiet Centre (Rīga) 11, 14, 144, 156–7 Rīga 130, 132, 133, 142–65 Annunciation (Rīga) 158
Around Town Hall Square street-by- Russian Orthodox Church of St Nikolas
R street 150–51 (Ventspils) 180
Radio 372 Art Nouveau architecture 11, 156–7 Russian Revolution 39, 55, 139
Radvila Palace (Vilnius) 241 climate 32 Russian rule 37, 38–9
Radvilaitė, Barbora 265 entertainment 350–51 in Estonia 55
Rafting 359 festivals 136, 137 in Latvia 139
Rail travel Further Afield 158–63 in Lithuania 218
Anykščiai Northern Railway Museum getting around 145, 386–7 Russians, ethnic 24
269 history 36–9, 42, 138, 139, 140, 143 in Estonia 50
Estonia 377, 378 hotels 300–301 in Latvia 133, 141, 143
Gulbene-Alūksne Narrow-Gauge itineraries 11, 14 in Lithuania 210
Railway 203 map 144–5
Latvia 383 Old Town 128–9 S
Latvian Railway Museum (Jelgava) restaurants 320–22 SAAL Biennial (Tallinn) 53
170 shopping 338–9 Saaremaa Island 10, 12–13, 89, 96–9
Lithuania 390–91 Street Finder 164–5 history 36, 54
Lithuanian Narrow-Gauge Railway 269 Rīga Card 366, 386, 387 hotels 298
Railway Festival (Gulbene-Alūksne Rīga Castle 147 restaurants 317–18
Narrow-Gauge Railway) 137 Rīga City Festival 137 Saaremaa Regional Museum
Railway Museum (Rīga) 159 Rīga Ghetto Museum 158 (Kuressaare) 98
Rainiai 280 Rīga International Airport 382, 383 Saartneem 114
Rainis Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Rīga Opera Festival 136 Sabile 182
Raja 13, 127 Rīga Zoo 160–61 hotels 302
Rakvere 116–17 Rīgas Ritmi 136 restaurants 323
hotels 299 Riisa Bog Trail (Soomaa National Park) Sabiles Vīna Kalns 182, 312
restaurants 319 104 Sabonis, Arvydas 27
Rakvere Castle 116, 117 Ristna Lighthouse (Hiiumaa Island) 95 Safety 368–9
Randu Meadows (Salacgrīva) 194 Rivers 23 travel safety advice 364
Raseiniai 279 Roadside stalls (Latvia) 337 Sagadi Manor (Lahemaa National Park)
restaurants 331 Rock and pop 111, 113
Rasos Cemetery (Vilnius) 248 Latvia 349 Sailing 359
Rastrelli, Francesco Bartolomeo 130, Rīga 350, 351 St Catherine’s Passageway (Tallinn) 67
170, 172 Tallinn 346, 347 St Jacob’s Barracks (Rīga) 148
Ratnyčia Valley 259 Vilnius 354–5 Salaca river 188, 194
Raud, Kristjan, Kristjan Raud Museum Rode, Hermen 68 Salacgrīva 194
(Tallinn) 85 Roja 176 hotels 303
Raudondvaris (Kaunas) 265 hotels 302 restaurants 325
Raudondvaris (Šeduva) 278 restaurants 323 Salaspils 162
Saldus 183 Sirenos Theatre Festival (Vilnius) 213 Stāmeriena (cont.)

Sales Sittow, Michael 26 restaurants 325
Estonia 332 Skaistkalne Roman Catholic Church 171 Stanislovas, Father 265
Latvia 336 Skalbe, Kārlis, Kārlis Skalbe Museum Stasov, Vasily 226
Salos 268–9 (Vecpiebalga) 203 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
Salos II Cultural Reserve (Aukštaitija Skaņaiskaln (near Mazsalaca) 195 Statehood Day (Lithuania) 212
National Park) 17, 270 Skiing 359 Stenbock, Ebba Margaretha 94
Salos Manor House 269 Estonia 123 Stone Age 35
Salt Storage Warehouse (Tallinn) 77 Skrīveri 197 Storks 22, 260
Samogitians 17, 35, 214, 273, 279 Šlapelis, Jurgis and Marija 227, 248 Stradiņs, Pauls, Pauls Stradiņš Museum
festivals (Lake Plateliai) 283 Šlapelis House Museum (Vilnius) 227 of the History of Medicine (Rīga) 156
Sangaste Manor 107, 124 Slapiņš, Andris 154 Strēlnieku iela (Rīga) 156
hotels 299 Slītere Lighthouse 177 Stripeikiai 270
Sapiega, Leonas 233 Slītere National Park 177 Student Days (Tartu) 119
Sapiega family 233 Small Guild (Rīga) 149 Stuoka-Gucevičius, Laurynas 228, 234,
Šarnelė 283 Smetona, Antanas 218, 219 236, 249, 258
Šatrija Hill 280 Šmigun, Anatoli 123 Sūda, Peeter 66
Saulkrasti 196 Šmigun-Vähi, Kristina 123 Sudervė 258
hotels 303 Smiltynė 286–7 Sudrabkalns, Janis 203
Šaulys 277 Smoking Sūduva 253
Scala Santa (Tytuvėnai) 278 in hotels 294–5 Summer Sound (Liepāja) 136
Scanorama (Vilnius) 213 in restaurants 309 Sun, Battle of the 214, 231, 276, 277
Schlater, Alexander Georg, A View of Smuglevičius, Pranciškus 246 Sun Path (Druskininkai) 259
Tallinn with Hattorpe Tower 8–9 Snowboarding 359 Sundial Square (Šiauliai) 277
Schwab House (Rīga) 152 Estonia 123 Suta, Romāns 155
Sculpture Park (Klaipėda) 285 Socialist Revolution (Latvia) 139 Sutkus, Antanas 26
Sea Festival (Klaipėda) 212 Society Suur Munamägi 22, 107, 123, 125
Sea Festival (Latvia) 136 Estonia 49–50 hotels 299
Sea Museum (Smiltynė) 286–7 Latvia 134 restaurants 319
Sea-Fishing Museum (Roja) 176 Lithuania 210 Suuremõisa Manor (Hiiumaa Island) 12,
Seafood 310 Soft drinks 313 94–5
Seals, ringed 23 Sokk, Tiit 27 Suvalkija 253
Seaside Open-Air Museum (Ventspils) Solomon, Elijah Ben 243 Šv Kazimiero Street (Vilnius) 235
15, 181 Song Festival Bowl (Tallinn) 82 Šventoji 273, 286
Seaside Park (Liepāja) 15, 185 Song Festival Grounds (Tallinn) 82 Šventoji river 269
Šeduva 278 Song Stadium (Rīga) 161 Svētupe river 194
Sefrens, Nicolas 184 Songs, folk 28–9 Svirskis, Vincas 231
Sėla Museum (Biržai) 268 Soomaa National Park 89, 90, 104–5 Swallows, barn 23
Selians 187 hotels 298 Swan Lake (Kadriorg Park, Tallinn) 78
Selian Farmstead (Jēkabpils) 198 Sooster, Ülo 119 Swan Lake (Palmse Manor) 112
Selonians 35, 197 Sõrve Penninsula 12, 96 Swedish community (Estonia) 92, 93
Semigallia 167, 170, 171 Soviet era Swedish Gate (Rīga) 148
Semjonova, Uljana 27 the arts 26, 27, 29, 81 Swedish rule
Šepka, Lionginas 268 Estonia 56–7 in Estonia 37, 55, 89
Setu people 24, 124, 125, 127 Forest Brothers 122 in Latvia 37, 138–9
Setu Village Museum (Värska) 127 Grūtas Park 259 Symbolism 21, 26
Shopping Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant 211, 269 Synagogues
department stores and malls 333, KGB Cells Museum (Tartu) 13, 16, 119 Beit Bella Synagogue (Tallinn) 41
336, 340 KGB Museum (Vilnius) 242 Choral Synagogue (Vilnius) 243
Estonia 332–5 Kohtla-Järve 107, 115 Choral Synagogue Ruins (Rīga) 40,
how to pay 332, 336, 340 Latvia 135, 140–41 158
Latvia 336–9 Lithuania 219 Daugavpils 200
Lithuania 340–43 Museum of the Occupation of Latvia Great Synagogue (Vilnius) 237, 243
opening hours 332, 336, 340 (Rīga) 14, 150, 152 Kėdainiai 265
regional specialities 333, 337, 341 Museum of Occupations (Tallinn) 75 Kenesa (Trakai) 41, 257
Rīga 338–9 Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5 Stone Synagogue Complex (Kalvarija)
rights and refunds 332 Plokštinė Former Soviet Missile Base 261
sales 332, 336 283
Tallinn 334–5 Sillamäe 115 T
VAT exemption 332, 336, 340 Soviet occupation 42–3 Tacitus 35
Vilnius 342–3 Soviet War Memorial (Tallinn) 84 Taevaskoja 13, 126
see also Markets Tauras District Partisans and Deportation hotels 299
Shrove Tuesday Carnival (Plateliai) 281 Museum (Marijampolė) 261 Taevaskoja Sandstone Cliffs 13, 126
Šiauliai 17, 273, 276–7 TV Tower (Tallinn) 84 Tallinn 44–5, 46, 49, 58–87, 290–91
hotels 307 “Space of Unknown Growth” (Europe airport 376–7
restaurants 331 Park) 253 architecture 20–21
Sightseeing tours (Vilnius) 393 Spas Around Town Hall Square street-by-
Sigismund II Augustus, Grand Duke Biršstonas 261 street 62–3
(King of Poland) 215, 229, 265 Druskininkai 259 Beyond the Old Town 76–85
Sigulda 14, 133, 190, 191, 192 Jūrmala 174 climate 33
Sillamäe 13, 115 spa breaks 360, 361 economy 51
hotels 299 Specialist holidays 356–61 entertainment 346–7
restaurants 319 Spectator sports 360, 361 festivals 52, 53
Šilutė 273, 287 Speedway racing 360 getting around 61, 380–81
restaurants 331 Spirits 312 history 36, 37, 39, 54, 56–7, 59
Šilutė Museum 287 Sport 27 hotels 296–7
Šiluva 278–9 Lithuania 211 itineraries 10, 12
Silver Bells International Sacred Music outdoor activities 356–61 map 60–61
Festival (Daugavpils) 137 spectator 360, 361 medieval architecture 65
Silver Chamber (Niguliste Church, Spring Farm Days (Estonia) 52 Old Town 62–75
Tallinn) 69 Stalin, Joseph 56, 162, 242, 245, 259 restaurants 314–16
Simpson, John 285 Stāmeriena 203 shopping 334–5
Singing Revolution 209 hotels 303 Street Finder 86–7
Tallinn (cont.) Toomemägi (Tartu) (cont.) TV Tower (Tallinn) 12, 84

Toompea street-by-street 72–3 street-by-street 120–21 TV Tower (Vilnius) 16, 219, 244, 245
Tallinn Botanical Gardens 12, 84–5 Toompea (Tallinn) 12, 59, 72–4 Tyszkiewicz, Count Josef 286
Tallinn Card 366, 380 street-by-street 72–3 Tyszkiewicz family 265, 286
Tallinn City Museum 12, 62, 65, 67 Toompea Castle (Tallinn) 12, 54, 72, 74 Tyszkiewicz Palace (Palanga) 286
Tallinn City Theatre 27 Toompea Hill (Tallinn) 51, 59 Tytuvėnai 275, 278
Tallinn Drama Theatre see Estonian Tõramaa Wooded Meadow Trail Tyzenhaus family 268
Drama Theatre (Soomaa National Park) 104
Tallinn Gate (Pärnu) 102 Tori Stud Farm 105 U
Tallinn Literature Festival 52 Tormis, Veljo 27, 29 Ūla river 259
Tallinn Old Town Days 52 Tourism Uldevena Castle (Lielvārde) 197
Tallinn Science and Technology Centre Estonia 51 Ulianskas, Kazimieras 278
77 Latvia 135 Ulmanis, Guntis 141
Tallinn Tower see TV Tower Lithuania 211 Ulmanis, Kārlis 140, 141, 160
Tallinn–Helsinki ferry 56, 59 Tourist information 365 Umernieki 203
Talsi 167, 182 Tours UNESCO
hotels 302 Lake Peipsi 127 Curonian Spit 274, 288–9
restaurants 323 Latgale Lakes 202 Kernavė 207, 258
Talsi Regional Museum 182 Livonian Coast 177 Lithuanian cross-crafting tradition 284
Tammsaare, Anton Hansen 26, 81 Town Hall Pharmacy (Tallinn) 54, 62, 64 Rīga 143
Anton Hansen Tammsaare Museum Town Hall Square (Rīga) 14, 145 Tallinn 59
(Tallinn) 78, 81 street-by-street 150–51 Vilnius 209, 221
Tartu 13, 47, 107, 118–21 Town Hall Square (Tallinn) 64, 262–3 University of Latvia (Rīga) 159
climate 33 Town Hall Square (Tartu) 118 University Observatory (Tartu) 120
festivals 52, 53 Town Hall Square (Vilnius) 221, 236 Upītis, Pēteris 171
history 39, 54, 55 street-by-street 234–5 Upīts, Andrejs, Andrejs Upīts Memorial
hotels 299 Town Halls Museum (Skrīveri) 197
restaurants 319 Old Town Hall (Kaunas) 16, 21, 262 Upper Castle (Vilnius) 16, 224, 230
Toomemagi street-by-street 120–21 Pärnu 102 Usma Church (Latvian Ethnographic
Tartu Airport 377 Rīga 14, 150 Open-Air Museum) 163
Tartu Art Museum 13, 119 Tallinn 12, 64, 65 Užgavėnės (Lithuania) 213
Tartu City Day 119 Tartu 21, 118, 121 Užupis (Vilnius) 11, 16, 239, 244
Tartu Ski Marathon 53, 123 Vilnius 234, 236
Tartu Student Days 52 Trainiškis 271 V
Tartu, Treaty of 55 Trakai 41, 256–7 Vaide 177
Tartu University 13, 37, 55, 106, 121 festivals 212 Väike Munamägi 123
Tartu University Main Building 118 hotels 306 Väike-Maarja 117
Tauras District Partisans and restaurants 329–30 Väike-Maarja Museum 117
Deportation Museum (Marijampolė) Trakai Island Castle 207, 253, 256–7, Valaste 115
261 266–7 Valčių Pervežimas Water Trail
Taxis itineraries 11, 16 (Aukštaitija National Park) 271
Rīga 386–7 Trams Valdemar II of Denmark 54
Tallinn 381 Rīga 386, 387 Valdemārs, Krišjānis 39, 146, 176, 194,
Vilnius 392–3 Tallinn 380, 381 195
Tchaikovsky, Pyotr Ilyich, in Haapsalu 93 Traniškis (Aukštaitija National Park) 271 Vallimägi Hill (Rakvere) 117
Teirumnīki 202 Travel Valmiera 138, 194
Telephones 372–5 Central Lithuania 255 hotels 303
Television 372 Eastern Estonia 109 restaurants 325
Telšiai 280 Eastern Latvia 189 Van Dyck, Anthony, Portrait of Thomas
Tencalla, Constante 247 Estonia 376–81 Chaloner 80
Tērvete 167 Latvia 382–7 Vandens Malūnas (Vilnius) 249
hotels 302 Lithuania 388–93 Varėna 258–9
Tērvete History Museum 171 Rīga 386–7 festivals 213
Tērvete Nature Park 171 Tallinn 380–81 hotels 306
Teutonic Knights 253, 279, 281 travel safety advice 364 Varnelis, Kazys, Kazys Varnelis Museum
amber 30 Vilnius 392–3 239
Battle of Grünwald 216, 256, 262 Western Estonia 91 Varniai Blues Nights 212
in Estonia 36, 54 Western Latvia 168–9 Varpas 218
in Latvia 54, 138, 187 Western Lithuania 275 Värska 127
in Lithuania 214, 260 see also Air travel; Buses; Car hire; restaurants 319
Theatre 27 Coach travel; Cycling; Driving; Ferry Vastseliina 125
festivals 213 travel; VAT
Latvia 348, 349 Motorcycling; Rail travel Estonia 332
Lithuania 353 Traveller’s cheques 370 Latvia 336
Rīga 350, 351 Tree Park (Skrīveri) 197 Lithuania 340
Tallinn 346, 347 Trinapolis Church (Vilnius) 249 Vecāķi 162
Vilnius 354, 355 Trolleybuses Vecekrug Dune (Curonian Spit) 288
Theatre, Music and Film Museum Rīga 386, 387 Vecpiebalga 203
(Vilnius) 241 Tallinn 380, 381 restaurants 325
Theatre Square (Klaipėda) 284 Vilnius 392, 393 Veerpalu, Andrus 123
Three Brothers (Rīga) 147 Tuganov, Elbert 26 Vegetables 311
Three Sisters (Tallinn) 71 Tukums 175 Vegetarians 309
Thunder Oak tree (Plungė) 281 hotels 302 Vējupīte river 192
Ticks 369 restaurants 323 Veliuona 279
Tiidermann, H 66 Tukums Art Museum 175 Velotaxis (Tallinn) 381
Time zone 367 Tulip Festival (Burbiškis Manor) 278 Venta river 180
Tipping Turaīda Castle 186 Venta Waterfall (Kuldīga) 183
in hotels 292 Turaida Church 192 Ventė 287
in restaurants 309 Turaida Museum Reserve 14, 190, 191, Ventspils 14–15, 138, 139, 167, 180–81
Tolly, Field Marshal Barclay de 119, 122 192 hotels 302
Tomašickis, Leons 199 Turaida Rose 191, 192 restaurants 323–4
Toom, Artur 99 Tüür, Erkki-Sven 27 Ventspils Airport 383
Toomemägi (Tartu) 13, 118 TV Tower (Rīga) 146 Ventspils Beach 181
Ventspils Castle 14, 15, 180 Vormsi Island (cont.) World War I (cont.)
Verkiai Palace (Vilnius) 249 restaurants 318 Šiauliai 276
Vēršupīte river 174 Võru 125 Soviet War Memorial (Tallinn) 84
Vestermanis, Margers 155 hotels 299 Vecāķi 162
Vēveris, Eižens 162 restaurants 319 Ventspils Castle 180
Victory Park (Rīga) 159 Võsu 13, 111, 112 World War II 42–3
Vidzeme 22, 154, 163, 187, 188, 194 Vytautas, Grand Duke of Lithuania 36, Alytus 260
Vidzgiris Forest 260 215, 216, 256–7, 263 Dauderi (Rīga) 160
Viekšniai 280 statue (Birštonas) 261 Estonia 56
Vietinghoff, Baron 203 Vytautas Castle Hill (Birštonas) 261 Holocaust Memorial (Biķernieki
A View of Tallinn with Hattorpe Tower Vytautas Church (Kaunas) 263 Forest) 161
(Schlater) 8–9 Vytautas the Great War Museum Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 242
Viinistu 110, 113 (Kaunas) 16, 264 Jelgava 167
Viinistu Art Museum 113 Kalvarija 261
Viitna 112 W Latvia 140, 141
Viķe-Freiberga, Vaira 141 Walking Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149
Viki 99 Käsmu Boulder Walk 13, 112, 114 Lithuania 219
Vikings 35 Lakeside walk (Trakai) 256 Macikai Concentration Camp
Vilde (café) (Tartu) 120, 319 Rīga 387 Museum 287
Vilde, Eduard 27, 81 Tallinn 381 Mežaparks (Rīga) 160
Eduard Vilde Memorial Museum Vilnius 393 Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 41,
(Tallinn) 78, 81 see also Hiking and trekking 155
statue (Tartu) 47, 120 Walter, J H B 21 Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
Viljandi 107, 122 Water parks, Aqua Park (Ventspils) 181 (Rīga) 14, 150, 151, 152
festivals 53 Water sports 359, 361 Museum of Occupations (Tallinn) 75
history 54 Watteau, Antoine 153 Museum of Rīga’s History and
hotels 299 Weigh House (Kuressaare) 98 Navigation 146
restaurants 319 Weights and measures 367 Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264
Viljandi Folk Festival 53, 107 Wellness tourism 259 Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5
Vilna Ghetto (Vilnius) 243 Western Estonia 88–105 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius)
Vilnia river 231 hotels 297–8 41, 248–9
Vilnius 209, 220–51, 253 restaurants 316–18 Rainiai 280
Baroque architecture 234, 237 travel 91 Raseiniai 279
climate 33 Western Latvia 166–85 Rēzekne 199
entertainment 354–5 hotels 301–2 Rīga 148
festivals 212, 213 restaurants 322–4 Rīga Ghetto Museum 158
Further Afield 244–9 travel 168–9 Rumbula Forest 162
getting around 223, 392–3 Western Lithuania 272–89 Salaspils 162
history 38, 42, 215–19, 221 hotels 306–7 Soviet War Memorial (Tallinn) 84
hotels 304–5 map 274–5 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
itineraries 11, 16 restaurants 330–31 Vilna Ghetto 243
Jewish Vilnius 40, 243 travel 275 Vilnius 221
map 222–3 Wetlands 22 Wulbern, Johann Heinrich 102
Pilies Street and Vilnius University White Lady Days (Haapsalu) 92
street-by-street 224–5 Wi-Fi 372–5 Y
restaurants 326–8 Wiiralt, Eduard 26 Yeltsin, Boris 43
shopping 342–3 Wilde, Oscar 47, 120
Street Finder 250–51 Wildlife 22–3 Z
Town Hall Square to the Gates of Lahemaa National Park 110 Zāle, Kārlis
Dawn street-by-street 234–5 Līgatne Education and Recreation Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161
Vilnius Academy of Art 279 Centre (Gauja National Park) 14, 191, Freedom Monument 154
Vilnius Airport 388, 389 193 Mother Latvia 161
Vilnius Cathedral 16, 207, 224, 228–9 Orjaku Nature Trail (Hiiumaa) 95 Žalgiris, Battle of see Grünwald, Battle
Vilnius City Card 366 Rīga Zoo 160–61 of
Vilnius Jazz 213 Tori Stud Farm 105 Žalgiris Yacht Club (Trakai) 256
Vilnius Picture Gallery 227 see also Birds; National parks; Nature Zapp, Walter 154
Vilnius University 16, 220, 221, 226 reserves Zappa, Frank, statue (Vilnius) 242
history 38–9, 215, 217, 218 Windsurfing 359 Zapyškis Church (Kaunas) 265
street-by-street 224–5 Wine 312 Zarudny, Ivan 70
Vilnius–Molėtai Road, restaurants 330 Sabile 182 Zatlers, Valdis 141
Vilnius–Panevėžys Road, restaurants Winter Garden (Kretinga) 286 Žemaičiai Art Museum (Plungė) 281
330 Winter Olympics 123 Žemaičių Kalvarija 283
Vilsandi Island 99 Winter sports 359, 361 Žemaitija 273, 280, 281, 282–3
Vilsandi National Park 12, 96, 99 Estonia 123 Žemaitija National Park 273, 274, 281,
Vingis Park (Vilnius) 245 Witchcraft 264, 281 282–3
VIRAC (Venspils International Radio Witch’s Ash (Plateliai) 281 hotels 307
Astronomy Centre) 181 Wolves 22 restaurants 331
Virgin Mary Catholic Church Woodlands Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Zemgale 130, 163, 167, 175
(Daugavpils) 201 World Lithuanian Song Festival Zemgale Peasants’ Homestead
Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church (Otepää) (Vilnius) 245 (Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air
25 World War I 39 Museum) 163
Viru Gate (Tallinn) 60, 66 Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244 Zemgaļi 167
Viru Street (Tallinn) 63 Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Zemgalians 35
Visaginas 253, 269 Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Zervynos 259, 260
hotels 306 Central Market (Rīga) 159 Žilinskas, Mykolas, Mykolas Žilinskas Art
restaurants 330 Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 236 Gallery (Kaunas) 264
Visas 364, 365 Estonia 55 Žmuidzinavičius, Antanas 264
Vītolnieki (Pape village) 185 Latvia 139 Zola, Emile 81
Vītols, Jāzeps 27 Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149 Zubov, Count Valerian 172
Vogels-Vogelstein, Christiana 194 Lithuania 218 Zubov, Platon 279
Vokiečių Street (Vilnius) 234 Museum of Rīga’s History and Zvaigzne, Gvido 154
Vormsi Island 89, 92, 93 Navigation 146 Zvārte Rock (Gauja National Park) 191
hotels 298 Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170 Žvėrynas (Vilnius) 16, 245
408  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Revisions Team
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Emma Anacootee, Claire Baranowski, Marta
of this book. Bescos, Imogen Corke, Dipika Dasgupta, Joel Dullroy,
Alice Fewery, Anna Freiberger, Howard Jarvis, Sumita
Contributors Khatwani, Kathryn Lane, Maite Lantaron, Carly Madden,
Howard Jarvis has been editor of numerous publications Alison McGill, George Nimmo, Bhavika Mathur, Vikki
including RigaNOW!, The Baltic Times, TTG Nordic and Minsk Nousiainen, Susie Peachey, Helen Peters, Rada Radojicic,
In Your Pocket. He has been a regular contributor for the Lucy Richards, Ellen Root, Sands Publishing Solutions,
Jane’s Information Group since 2000. Susana Smith, Neil Taylor, Richa Verma, Matt Willis
John Oates, winner of the Guardian newspaper’s Young Photography Permissions

Travel Writer of the Year award, has contributed to Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for
numerous newspapers, magazines and guidebooks. their assistance and kind permission to photograph at
their establishments:
Tim Ochser has been living in Rīga and Vilnius since 2001
where he has been working as a teacher and freelance Ainaži Naval College Museum, Andrejs Pumpurs
journalist. He has written several novels and plays. Museum, Anton Hansen Tammsaare Museum,
Aqua Park, Arsenal Museum of Art, Art Nouveau in
Neil Taylor is a writer, a tour operator and a consultant. He Rīga, Aviation Museum, Beekeeping Museum, Bicycle
writes for British newspapers on the Baltics and has Museum, Calvary Church of the Holy Cross, Cathedral
published several guidebooks on the region. of Christ the King, Cathedral of St Anthony of Padua,
Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin (Toomkirik), Cathedral
of Sts Boris and Glebe, Cat’s House, Church of
Fact Checkers
St Casimir’s, Church of St Theresa, Church of Sts Peter
Eat Latvia, Nicholas Archdeacon, Joel Dullroy, Irja Luks,
and Paul, Coca Cola Plaza, Tallinn, Contemporary Art
Brigita Pantelejeva, Nat Singer
Centre, Dauderi, Déjà Vu Lounge Bar, Tallinn, Dome
Cathedral, Dominican Church, Dominican Monastery,
Proofreaders
Old town, Dundaga, Europa Mall, Vilnius, Folk House of
Deepthi Talwar, Debra Wolter
the Livs, Franciscan Church, Friary of the Virgin Mary,
Tytuvenai, House of Blackheads, KGB Cells Museum,
Indexers
KGB Museum, Vilnius, Kohtla Underground Mining
Ajay Lal Das, Helen Peters
Museum, Kiek in de Kök, Tallinn, Kumu Art Museum,
Latgale Culture and History Museum, The Latvian
Design and Editorial
Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, Latvian Museum of
Managing Editor Douglas Amrine
Photography, Rēzekne, Liepāja Museum, Lithuanian
Managing Art Editor Jane Ewart
National Museum, Littera Bookshop, Vilnius University,
Senior Editor Michelle Crane
Mentzendorff House, The Mihkli Farm Museum,
Production Controller Lousie Daly Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis National Museum
Picture Research Ellen Root of Art, Motor Museum, Museum of the Barricades of
DTP Designer Natasha Lu 1991, Museum of Decorative Arts and Design,
Museum of History and Applied Arts, Preiļi, Museum
Additional Photography of Horns, Museum of Rīga’s History and Navigation,
Peter Dennis, Rose Horridge, Niguliste Church, Tallinn, Palmse Manor House,
Rajnish Kashyap, Ian O’Leary. Pedvāle Open-Air Museum, Peter The Great House
Museum, The Palanga Amber Museum, Photo
Additional Illustrations Museum, Tallinn, Porcelain Museum, Powder Tower/
Chapel Design & Marketing Ltd Latvian War Museum, Railway Station, Vilnius, Rundāle
Palace, Latvia, Sea Museum-Aquarium and Dolphinarium
Cartography in Smiltynė, Setu Village Museum (Lake Peipsi),
Casper Morris, Stuart James Shakespeare Boutique Hotel, Skaistkalne Roman Catholic
Church, Skyline Bar (Reval Hotel, Latvija), St Anne’s
Cartographic Research Basilica, St John’s Church, Tallinn International Airport,
Netmaps Tamsta Club, Tērvete Nature Park, Theatre, Music and
Film Museum, Town Hall Pharmacy in Tallinn, Trakai
Special Assistance Island Castle, Tukums, Vilnius Cathedral, Vilnius Picture
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Gallery, Vilnius University, Vincents Restaurant,
for their assistance: Sonata Šiaučiulytė at Vilnius Tourist Rīga, Vytautas The Great War Museum, Žemaitija
Information Centre National Park
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  409
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410  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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PHRASE BOOK  411
Phrase Book: Estonian

In Emergency Useful Phrases
Help! Appi! Awpy! How are you? Kuidas läheb? Cooi-das la-heb?
Stop! Peatuge! Beh-atu-gay! Very well, thank Aitäh, väga hästi. Ai-tah, va-ga has-ti.
Call a Kutsuge arst! Coot-soo-gay arst! you.
doctor! Pleased to meet Meeldiv tuttavaks Mayl-div too-
Call an Kutsuge kiirabi! Coot-soo-gay you. saada. taw-vawks saa-daw.
ambulance! keer-awbi! See you soon! Varsti näeme! Vaarsti nay-me!
Call the Kutsuge Coot-soo-gay po- Is there … here? Kas siin on ...? Cos scene onn …?
police! politsei! leet-say! Where can Kust ma Coost ma sawk-
Call the fire Kutsuge Coot-soo-gay I get …? saaksin ...? sin …?
department! tuletõrje! too-lei-tur-ye! How do you Kuidas minna ...? Cooi-dass min-
Where is the Kus on lähim Coos onn la-him get to? na …?
nearest telephone? telefon? telefon? How far is …? Kui kaugel on ...? Cooi cow-kel onn …?
Where is the Kus on lähim Coos onn la-him Do you speak Kas te räägite Cos tay ra-gi-tay
nearest hospital? haigla? high-glaa? English? inglise keelt? ing-li-say keylt?
I can’t speak Ma ei oska Maw ey oska
Communication Essentials Estonian. eesti keelt. eysti kaylt.
Yes Jah Yah I don’t Ma ei saa aru. Maw ey saw aru.
No Ei Ey understand.
Please Palun Pa-loon Can you Kas saate mind Cos saw-tay
Thank you Aitäh Ai-tah help me? aidata? meend eye-data?
Excuse me Vabandage Va-ban-da-gay Please speak Palun rääkige Pa-loon ra-ki-
Hello Tere Te-re slowly. aeglaselt. gay ayg-la-selt.
Goodbye Head aega Heyad ayga Sorry! Vabandust! Va-ban-doost!
Good night Head õhtut Heyad ewh-toot
morning hommik hom-mik Useful Words
afternoon pärastlõuna pa-rawst-lew-na big suur suur
evening õhtu ewh-tu small väike vayke
yesterday eile eilay hot kuum coom
today täna ta-naw cold külm kewlm
tomorrow homme hom-may good hea he-ya
What? Mida? Meeda? bad halb halb
When? Millal? Meelal? enough küllalt cool-alt
Why? Miks? Meeks? well hästi hasti
Where? Kus? Coos? open avatud aw-va-tud
closed suletud soo-laytud
left vasak vaw-sawk
right parem paw-rem
Guidelines for Pronunciation straight otse ot-say
near lähedal la-hay-dawl
The Estonian alphabet consists of the following far kaugel kaw-ghell
letters: a, b, d, e, f, g, h, i , j, k, l, m, n, o, p, r, s, š, z, ž, up ülal oolal
t, u, v, õ, ä, ö, ü. The letters c, q, x, y, z are used only down all all
early vara va-raw
in proper names (of places and people) and in late hilja hill-yaw
words borrowed from foreign languages. Unlike entrance sissepääs see-say-pa-es
English, all letters in Estonian are pronounced (for exit väljapääs val-yaw-pa-es
toilet tualett too-a-lett
example: the silent k in “knee”). free/unoccupied vaba vaw-baw
free/no charge tasuta taw-soo-taw
Some letter sounds:
a as in the “u” in cut Making a Telephone Call
Can I call abroad Kas ma saan siit Cos maw sawn seet
b similar to “p” in English from here? välismaale helistada? va-lees-maw-lay
g similar to “k” in English hay-lees-taw-da?
j as in the “y” in yes I would like to Tahaksin helistada Taw-haw-ksin
call collect. vastaja kulul. hay-lees-taw-da
r like in English, but rolled vaws-taya koo-lool.
š “sh” local call kohalik kõne kohaw-lik kew-ne
ž as in the “s” in pleasure I’ll ring back Helistan hiljem Hay-lees-tawn heel-
õ like the “o” in own later. tagasi. yem taw-gaw-si.
Could I leave Kas ma saaksin Cos maw sawk-
ä as in the “a” in bat a message? teate jätta? seen tyate ya-taw?
ö similar to the “u” in fur Could you speak Kas saate natuke Cos saw-tay naw-
ü as in the “u” in cube up a little, please? valjemini rääkida? too-kay vawl-ye-
meenee ra-ki-daw?
Some letter combination sounds:
ai as in the “ai” in aisle Shopping
ei as in the “ei” in vein How much is Kui palju see Cooi pawl-yu say
oo as in the “a” in water this? maksab? mawk-sab?
I would like ... Tahaksin ... Taw-hawk-sin ...
uu as in the “oo” in boot Do you have ...? Kas teil on ...? Cos tayl onn …?
öö as in the “u” in fur I’m just looking. Vaatan lihtsalt. Vaw-tan liht-sawlt.
Some points to remember: Do you take Kas krediitkaardiga Cos kre-diit-kawrd-
credit cards? saab maksta? eega sawb mawk-
• Usually the first syllable of a word is stressed. sta?
However, quite a few words with foreign origins What time do Mis kell teil Mees kell tayl a-vaw-
and some native Estonian words, such as aitäh, you open? avatakse? tawk-say?
What time do Mis kell teil Mees kell tayl su-
don’t follow this pattern. you close? suletakse? lay-tawk-say?
• Vowels and consonants can be short (written this one see cee
with one letter), long or extra long (written with that one too toe
two letters). expensive kallis kaw-lees
cheap odav oh-dav
size suurus soo-rus
412  PHRASE BOOK
antique dealer antiigipood an-tiiki-pode kohv k-oh-v coffee

souvenir shop suveniiripood sou-ve-niiri-pode kook, saiad coke, sigh-ad cake, pastry
bookshop raamatupood raw-maw-too-pode koor core cream
café kohvik koh-fik küüslauk koos-lauk garlic
chemist apteek ap-tayk lambaliha lawm-ba-leeha lamb
newspaper kiosk ajalehekiosk a-ya-le-he-kii-osk leib/sai layb/sei bread
department store kaubamaja cow-ba-mawya liha lee-ha meat
market turg toorg loomaliha lo-ma-leeha beef
mereannid mayrey-awnid seafood
Staying in a Hotel mineraalvesi min-e-rawl-vaysi mineral water
Have you any Kas teil on vaba Cos tayl onn muna moona egg
vacancies? tuba? vawba too ba? õli ewli oil
double room kahene tuba ka-hay-ne tooba õlu ewlu beer
with double bed laia voodiga la-ya vo-diga pannkook pawn-coke pancake
twin room kahe voodiga tuba ka-hay vo-diga too peekon paykon bacon
single room ühene tuba ew-hene too-ba piim peem milk
non-smoking mittesuitsetajatele meetay-sooitse-ta-
pipar peepar pepper
ya-lay
room with a tuba too-ba pirukas piru-kaws pie
bath/shower vanniga/dušiga vaw-niga/doosh-iga praeliha praey-leeha steak
porter portjee port-ye praetud praeytud fried
key võti vew-ti punane vein poo-naw-nay vein red wine
I have a Mul on Mool onn re-se-veri- puuvili puu-veelee fruit
reservation. reserveeritud. tood. puuviljamahl puu-vil-ya-mawhl fruit juice
riis rees rice
Sightseeing rull rule roll
bus buss boos salat sawlat salad
tram tramm trawm sealiha seya-leeha pork
trolley bus troll trol seened say-ned mushrooms
train rong row-ng sink sink ham
bus stop bussipeatus boo-si-peya-toos šokolaad shok-o-lawd chocolate
tram stop trammipeatus tra-mi-peya-toos sool sole salt
art gallery kunstigalerii koonsti-gale-ree suhkur suhkoor sugar
palace palee pa-lay suitsukala suit-soo-kawla smoked fish
castle loss lowss supp soup soup
cathedral katedraal caw-tay-dral tee te tea
church kirik kee-reek täidetud tayde-tood stuffed
garden aed eye-ed valge vein val-gay vein white wine
library raamatukogu raw-maw-too-kogu vorst vorst sausage
museum muuseum mu-seum võileib voi-layb sandwich
tourist information turismiinfo too-ris-me-info
closed for public külastajatele suletud koo-las-taya-tayle
soo-le-tood
Numbers
holiday puhkepäev pooh-ke-payev 0 null nul
travel agent reisibüroo ray-see-bu-roh 1 üks ewks
2 kaks kawks
Eating Out 3 kolm colm
A table for … Palun üks laud ...Pa-loon ooks 4 neli ne-li
please inimesele la-ood …eenee- 5 viis viis
me-selay 6 kuus kuus
I want to reserve Tahaksin reserveerida Taw-hawk-sin re- 7 seitse say-tsey
a table. lauda. ser-veri-da la-ooda. 8 kaheksa kaw-hex-a
The bill, please Palun arve Pa-loon arvay 9 üheksa ew-hex-a
I am a vegetarian. Olen taimetoitlane. Olayn tai-may- 10 kümme kewmme
toyt-lanay. 11 üksteist ewx-taste
I’d like … Tahaksin ... Ta-hawk-sin… 12 kaksteist kawks-taste
waiter/waitress kelner/ettekandja kel-ner/etay-kandya 13 kolmteist colm-taste
menu menüü men-oo 14 neliteist nayli-taste
wine list veinimenüü veini-men-oo 15 viisteist viis-taste
chef’s special firmaroog feer-ma-rogue 16 kuusteist kuus-taste
tip jootraha yot-rawha
17 seitseteist saytse-taste
glass klaas klas
bottle pudel poo-del 18 kaheksateist kawheksaw-taste
knife nuga noo-ga 19 üheksateist ewheksaw-taste
fork kahvel kawf-fel 20 kakskümmend kawks-kew-mend
spoon lusikas loo-si-kaws 30 kolmkümmend colm-kew-mend
breakfast hommikusöök hom-miku-sook 40 nelikümmend nayli-kew-mend
lunch lõuna lewna 50 viiskümmend viis-kew-mend
dinner õhtusöök euh-tu-sook 60 kuuskümmend kuus-kew-mend
main courses praed prayed 70 seitsekümmend say-tse-kew-mend
starters eelroad el-rowad 80 kaheksakümmend kaw-heksa-
vegetables köögiviljad koo-gi-vilyad kew-mend
desserts magustoidud maw-gus-toy-dud 90 üheksakümmend ew-heksa-
rare pooltoores pole-toe-res kew-mend
well done küps cewps 100 sada sa-da
1000 tuhat too-hawt
Menu Decoder
äädikas a-di-kaws vinegar Time
aurutatud ow-ru-tawtud steamed
one minute üks minut ewks minut
friikartul free-kartool chips
grillitud grilly-tud grilled hour tund toond
jäätis ya-tis ice cream half an hour pool tundi pole toondi
juust youst cheese Sunday pühapäev pew-ha-payev
kala kaw-la fish Monday esmaspäev esmas-payev
kana kawna chicken Tuesday teisipäev taysi-payev
kartul kar-tool potatoes Wednesday kolmapäev kolma-payev
kaste kaws-tey sauce Thursday neljapäev nelya-payev
keedetud kay-day-tud boiled Friday reede re-de
klimbid klim-bid dumplings Saturday laupäev lauw-payev
PHRASE BOOK  413
Phrase Book: Latvian

In Emergency Why? Kāpēc? Kaa-pehts?
Help! Palīgā! Pu-lee-gaa! Where? Kur? Koor?
Stop! Apstāties! Up-staat-eas!
Call a doctor! Izsauciet ārstu Iz-sowts-eat ahr-stoo! Useful Phrases
Call an Izsauciet ātro Iz-sowts-eat aa-troa How are you? Kā jums klājas? Kaa yooms klaa-yus?
ambulance! palīdzību! pu-leedz-ee-boo! Very well Ļoti labi Lyot-ee lu-bi
Call the police! Izsauciet policiju! Iz-sowts-eat po- Pleased to meet Prieks iepazīties. Preaks ea-pu-zeet-
lits-ee-yoo! you. eas.
Call the fire Izsauciet Iz-sowts-eat oo- See you soon! Uz drīz redzēšanos! Ooz dreez redz-e-
department! ugunsdzēsējus! goons-dseh-say-oos! shun-oas!
Where is the Kur ir tuvākais Koor ir too-vaak-ais Is there … here? Vai šeit ir ….? Vi shayt eer …?
nearest telephone? telefons? tel-e-fons? Where can Kur es varu dabūt …? Koor es vu-roo
Where is the Kur ir tuvākā Koor ir too-vaak-aa I get …? du-boot ...?
nearest hospital? slimnīca? slim-neets-u? How do you Kā es varu tikt līdz? Kaa es vu-roo
get to? tikt leedz?
Communication Essentials How far is …? Cik tālu atrodas …? Tsik taa-loo ut-
Yes Jā Yaa roa-dus ...?
No Nē Neh Do you speak Vai jūs runājat Vy yoos roon-aa-yut
Please Lūdzu Loodz-oo English? angliski? ung-lees-kee?
Thank you Paldies Pul-deas I can’t speak Es nerunāju latviski. Es ne-roon-aa-yoo
Excuse me Atvainojiet Ut-vy-noa-yeat Latvian. lut-vees-kee.
Hello Sveiki / Labdien Svay-key / lub-dean I don’t Es nesaprotu. es ne-sup-roat-oo.
Goodbye Uz redzēšanos Ooz redz-ee-shun-oas understand.
Good night Ar labu nakti Ur lub-oo nukt-i Can you Vai varat man Vy vu-rut mun
morning rīts reets help me? palīdzēt? pu-leedz-eht?
afternoon pēcpusdiena pehts-poos-dea-nu Please speak Lūdzu, runājiet Loodz-oo roon-aa-
evening vakars vu-kars slowly. lēnām. yeat lehn-aam.
yesterday vakar vu-kar Sorry! Atvainojiet! ut-vy-noa-yeat!
today šodien shoa-dean
tomorrow rīt reet Useful Words
What? Ko? Kuah? big liels leals
When? Kad? Kud? small mazs muzs
hot karsts kahrsts
cold auksts owksts
Guidelines for Prounciation good labs lubs
bad slikts slikts
Latvian is, for the most part, a phonetic language enough pietiekami pea-teak-um-ee
and the stress is almost always on the first syllable. well vesels vas-als
open atvērts ut-vehrts
Each letter and vowel combination (dipthong) has closed slēgts slehgts
a particular sound, as indicated below: left kreisi pu krays-i
right labi pu lu-bi
Vowels straight taisni tai-sni
Either short or long (with a macron): near tuvu toov-oo
far tālu taal-oo
a like “u” in “under” up augšā owg-shaa
ā like “a” in “star” down lejā lay-aa
e like “e” in “bed”, or “a” in “cat” here šeit shayt
there tur toor
ē like “ai” in “hair”, or “a” in “glad” early agri ug-ri
i like “i” in “sit” late vēlu vehl-oo
ī like “ee” in “feet” entrance ieeja ea-ey-u
exit izeja iz-ey-u
o like “o” in “corn”, or “oa” in “oar” toilet tualete toou-le-te
u like “oo” in “book” free/unoccupied brīvs breevs
ū like “oo” in “school” free/no charge bezmaksas bez-muk-sus
Dipthongs Making a Telephone Call

ai like “i” in “line” Can I call abroad Vai no šejienes var Vy noa shay-ean-ess
au like “ow” in “cow” from here? zvanīt uz ārzemēm? vur zvun-eet ooz
ei like “ay” in “clay” aar-zem-ehm?
I would like to Es gribu, lai maksā Es grib-oo, lai
ie like “ea” in “clear” call collect. zvana saņēmējs. muks-aa zvu-nu
oi like “oy” in “boy” suny-eh-mehs.
ui like “ui” in “ruin” local call vietējā saruna veat-ay-aa su-roo-nu
I’ll ring back Es atzvanīšu vēlāk. Es ut-zvun-ee-shoo
Consonants later. vehl-aak.
Could I leave Vai es varu atstāt Vy es vuroo ut-
Same as English, except for: a message? ziņu? staat ziny-oo?
c like “ts” in “hats” Could you speak Lūdzu, runājiet Loodz-oo, roon-aa
č like “ch” in “church” up a little, mazliet skaļāk? yeat muz-leat
please? skuly-aak?
dz like “ds” in “hands”
dž like “j” in “joke” Shopping
ģ like “d” in “duty” How much is this? Cik tas maksā? Tsik tus muk-saa?
j like “y” in “yellow” I would like ... Es vēlētos ... Es veh-leh-toas ...
ķ like “c” in “cute” Do you have ...? Vai Jums ir ...? Vy yooms ir ..?
I’m just looking. Es tikai skatos. Es tik-ai skut-oas.
ļ like “li” in “million” Do you take Vai es varu maksāt Vy es vu-roo muk-
ņ like “n” in “new” credit cards? ar kredītkarti? saat ur kred-eet-kurti?
r like “r” in “run” What time do Cikos tiek atvērts Tsik-oas teak ut-
you open? veikals? vehrts vay-kuls?
š like “sh” in “shut” What time do Cikos tiek slēgts Tsik-oas teak slehgts
ž like “s” in “treasure” you close? veikals? vay-kuls?
this one šo shoa
414  PHRASE BOOK
that one to toa Menu Decoder

expensive dārgs daargs
alus ul-oos beer
cheap lēts lehts
augļu sula ow-gly-oo soo-la fruit juice
size izmērs iz-mehrs
baltvīns bult-veens white wine
antique dealer antikvariāts un-teek-vur-i-aats
bekons bek-ons bacon
souvenir shop suvenīru veikals soo-ve-near-oo
cepts tsepts fried
vay-kuls
cūkgaļa tsook-guly-u pork
bookshop grāmatu veikals graa-mut-oo vay-
cukurs tsoo-koors sugar
kuls
desa des-u sausage
café kafējnīca ku-fay-neets-u
etiķis et-iky-is vinegar
chemist aptieka up-teak-u frī kartupeļi free kur-too-pely-i chips
newspaper kiosk avīžu kiosks u-veezh-oo kee- grilēts gril-ehts grilled
osks jēra gaļa yehr-u guly-u lamb
department store universālveikals oo-ni-ver-saal- jūras veltes yoor-us vel-tes seafood
vay-kuls kafija kuf-i-yu coffee
market tirgus tir-gus kartupeļi kur-too-pely-i potatoes
kūpinātas zivis koop-in-aat- smoked fish
Staying in a Hotel us ziv-is
Have you any Vai jums ir brīvas Vy yooms ir krējums kray-ooms cream
vacancies? istabas? breev-us is-tu? liellopa gaļa leal-loap-u guly-u beef
double room istaba ar divvietīgu is-tu-bu ur div- maize maiz-e bread
with double bed gultu veat-ee-goo gool-too mērce mehr-tse sauce
twin room divvietīga istaba div-veat-ee-gu is- minerālūdens min-er-aal-oo-dens mineral water
tu-bu ola oal-u egg
single room vienvietīga istaba vean-veat-ee gu is- pankūka pun-koo-ku pancake
tu-bu piens peans milk
non-smoking nesmēķētāju ne-smee-kyeh-taay-oo pildīts pild-eets stuffed
room with a ... istaba ar is-tu-bu ur vun- pipars pi-purs pepper
vannu/dušu ... oo/doosh-oo ... rīsi rees-i rice
porter portjē port-yay saldējums sul-day-ums ice cream
key atslēga ut-sleh-gu sāls saals salt
I have a Man ir pasūtīts mun ir pus-oo-teets salāti sul-aa-ti salad
reservation sarkanvins sur-kun-veens red wine
siers sears cheese
šķinķis shkyinky-is ham
Sightseeing smalkmaizīte smulk-maiz-ee-te pastry
bus autobuss ow-to-boos šokolāde shok-o-laa-de chocolate
tram tramvajs trum-vuys steiks stayks steak
trolley bus trolejbuss trol-ay-boos tēja they-u tea
train vilciens vilts-eans tvaicēts tvai-tsehts steamed
bus stop autobusa pietura ow-to-boos-u pea- vārīts vaar-eets boiled
too-ru vista vis-tu chicken
tram stop tramvaja pietura trum-vuy-u pea- zivis ziv-is fish
too-ru zupa zoop-u soup
art gallery māklsas galerija maak-slus gul-e-
ree-yu Numbers
palace/castle pils pils 0 nulle nooll-e
cathedral katedrāle kut-e-draa-le 1 viens veans
church baznīca buz-neets-u 2 divi di-vi
garden dārzs daarzs 3 trīs trees
library biblioteka bib-li-oa-te-ku 4 četri chet-ri
museum muzejs mooz-ays 5 pieci peat-si
tourist tūristu informācija toor-is-too in-for- 6 seši se-shi
information maats-i-ya 7 septiņi sept-iny-i
closed slēgts slehgts 8 astoņi us-toany-i
holiday brīvdiena breev-dea-nu 9 deviņi dev-iny-i
travel agent ceļojumu aģentūra tsely-oy-oo-moo 10 desmit des-mit
udy-en-toor-u 11 vienpadsmit vean-puds-mit
12 divpadsmit div-puds-mit
Eating Out 13 trīspadsmit trees-puds-mit
14 četrpadsmit chet-r-puds-mit
A table for … Galdiņu …. Guld iny oo…pehr
15 piecpadsmit peats-puds-mit
please. personām, lūdzu. soa naam, loodz oo. 16 sešpadsmit sesh-puds-mit
The bill ... Rēķinu ... Rehky-i-noo ... 17 septiņpadsmit sept-iny-puds-mit
I am a vegetarian. Es esmu veģetārietis. Es as-moo vedy-e- 18 astoņpadsmit us-toany-puds-mit
taar-ea-tis. 19 deviņpadsmit dev-iny-puds-mit
I’d like … Es vēlos … Es veh-loas ... 20 divdesmit div-des-mit
waiter/waitress oficiants / oficiante of-its-i-unts/of-its- 30 trīsdesmit trees-des-mit
i-unte 40 četrdesmit chet-r-des-mit
menu ēdienkarte eh-dean-kurt-e 50 piecdesmit peats-des-mit
wine list vīnu karte veen-oo kurt-e 60 sešdesmit sesh-des-mit
chef’s special īpašais šefpavāra ee-push-ais shef-pu- 70 septiņdesmit sept-iny-des-mit
ieteikums vaa-ru eat-ay-kums 80 astoņdesmit us-toany-des-mit
tip dzeramnauda dzer-um-now-du 90 deviņdesmit de-viny-des-mit
bottle pudele poo-de-le 100 simts simts
knife nazis nu-zis 1000 tūkstotis took-stoa-tis
fork dakša duk-shu
spoon karote kur-oa-te
breakfast brokastis broa-kus-tis Time
lunch pusdienas poos-dea-nus one minute viena minūte vean-u min-oo-te
dinner vakariņas vuk-ur-iny-us hour stunda stoon-du
main courses galvenie ēdieni gul-ven-ea eh- half an hour pus stunda poos stoon-du
dea-ni Sunday svētdiena sveet-dea-nu
starters uzkodas ooz-koa-dus Monday pirmdiena pirm-dea-nu
vegetables dārzeņi daarz-eny-i Tuesday otrdiena oa-tr-dea-nu
desserts saldie ēdieni/deserti sul-dea ee-dea- Wednesday trešdiena tresh-dea-nu
ni/dess-er-ti Thursday ceturtdiena tset-oort-dea-nu
rare asiņains us-iny-ains Friday piektdiena peakt-dea-nu
well done labi sacepts lu-bi suts-apts Saturday sestdiena sest-dea-nu
PHRASE BOOK  415
Phrase Book: Lithuanian

In Emergency When? Kada? Kaadaa?
Why? Kodėl? Kodel?
Help! Gelbėkit! Galbekit!
Stop! Sustokit! Soostokit! Where? Kur? Koor?
Look out! Atsargiai! Aatsaargyai!
Call a doctor! Kvieskit gydytoją! Kvieskit geedeetoyaa! Useful Phrases
Call an Kvieskit greitąją! Kvieskit greitaayaa! How are you? Kaip sekasi? Kaip sakaasi?
ambulance! Very well, thank Ačiū, labai gerai. Aachyoo, laabai
Call the police! Kvieskit policiją! Kvieskit politsiyaa! you. gerai.
Call the fire Kvieskit gaisrinę! Kvieskit gīsrine! Pleased to meet Malonu susipažinti. Maalonoo
department! you. soosipaazhinti.
Where is the Kur yra artimiausias Koor eeraa See you soon! Iki greito Iki greito
nearest telefonas? artimyowsyaas pasimatymo! paasimaateemo!
telephone? telefonaas? Is there … here? Ar čia yra ...? Ar che eeraa ...?
Where is the Kur yra artimiausia Koor eeraa Where can Kur galiu gauti ...? Koor gaalyoo
nearest hospital? ligoninė? artimyaausyaa I get …? gowti ...?
ligonine? How do you Kaip nuvykti iki ...? Kaip nooveekti
get to …? iki ...?
Communication Essentials How far is …? Koks atstumas iki ...? Koks aatstoomaas
Yes Taip Taip iki ...?
No Ne Ne Do you speak Ar kalbate Ar kaalbaate
Please Prašom Praashom English? angliškai? aanglishkai?
Thank you Ačiū Aachyoo I can’t speak Aš nekalbu Aash nekaalboo
Excuse me Atsiprašau Aatsipraashoa Lithuanian. lietuviškai. lietoovishkai.
Hello Sveiki Sveiki I don’t Aš nesuprantu. Aash nesoopraantoo.
Goodbye Viso gero Viso gero understand.
Good night Labanakt Laabaanaakt Can you Ar galite man Ar gaalite maan
morning rytas reetaas help me? padėti? paadeti?
afternoon popietė popiete Please speak Prašau kalbėti Praashoa kaalbeti
evening vakaras vaakaraas slowly. lėčiau. lechyoa.
yesterday vakar vaakar Sorry! Apgailestauju! Aapgīlestowyoo!
today šiandien shyaandien
tomorrow rytoj reetoy Useful Words
What? Kas? Kaas? big didelis didelis
small mažas maazhaas
hot karštas karshtaas
Guidelines for Prounciation cold
good
šaltas
geras
shaaltaas
geraas
bad blogas blogaas
Lithuanian has a complicated wandering accent enough gana gaanaa
that can change whenever a word changes its well gerai gerai
ending, as is seen with “mato matoe” (he/she/it/ open atidarytas aatidareetaas
closed uždarytas oozhdareetaas
they see) and “matau matoe” (I see). left kairė kīre
Diphthongs hold the sound longer than that of a right dešinė dashine
straight tiesiai tiesyai
simple vowel: near šalia shaalyaa
ai like “a” in “made” or “i” in “child” far toli toli
au like “ow” in “cow” or “o” in “note” up aukštyn owkshteen
down žemyn zhemeen
ei like “a” in “made” early anksti aanksti
ie like “ie” in “sienna” late vėlai velai
ui like “ooey” in “gooey” entrance įėjimas eeyeyimaas
exit išėjimas isheyimaas
uo like the word “woe” toilet tualetas tuaaletaas
free/unoccupied laisva/neužimta līsvaa/neoozhimtaa
Vowels have only one sound: free/no charge nemokamai nemokaamai
a like “a” in “father”
e like “e” in “bet” Making a Telephone Call
ę like “a” in “man” Can I call abroad Ar galiu iš čia Ar gaalyoo ish che
from here? paskambinti paaskaambinti ee
ė like “a” in “made” į užsienį? oozhsienee?
i like “i” in “bit” but before an “a”, “o”, or “u”, it is I would like to Aš norėčiau Aash norechyoa
sounds like the “y” in “canyon” call collect. paskambinti paaskaambinti
abonentui aabonentui
y like į jo sąskaita. yo saaskītaa.
o like “o” in “boat” local call vietinis pokalbis vietinis pokaalbis
u like “oo” in “wood” I’ll ring back Aš pats vėliau Aash paats velyoa
ą, į, ų, and ū just hold the sound of later. paskambinsiu. paaskaambinsyoo.
Could I leave Ar galiu palikti Ar gaalyoo paalikti
a, i, and u longer a message? žinutę? zhinoote?
Could you speak Ar galite kalbėti šiek Ar gaalite kaalbeti
Any consonant before an “e”, “i”, or “y” is palatalized up a little, please? tiek garsiau? shiek tiek garsyoa?
or softened like “n” in “bunion”. Consonants that do
not sound like their English counterparts include: Shopping
c like “ts” in “Betsy” How much is this? Kiek tai kainuoja? Kiek tai kīnuoyaa?
I would like … Aš norėčiau ... Aash norechyoa …
č like “ch” in “chunk” Do you have …? Ar turite ...? Ar toorite ...?
j like “y” in “yellow” I’m just looking Aš tik žiūriu Aash tik zhyooryoo
š like “sh” in “shot” Do you take Ar priimate Ar priimaate
credit cards? kreditines korteles? kreditines korteles?
ž like “s” in “measure” What time do Kada pradedate Kaadaa
g is always hard like in “go” you open? darbą? praadedaate
r is trilled on the tip of the tongue. darbaa?
What time do Kada baigiate Kaadaa
you close? darbą? baigyaate darbaa?
416  PHRASE BOOK
this one šitas shitaas dešra dashraa sausage

that one anas aanaas duona duonaa bread
antique dealer antikvariatas aantikvaryaataas druska drooskaa salt
bookshop knygynas kneegeenaas ėriena erienaa lamb
department universalinė ooniversaaline grietinėle grietinele cream
store parduotuvė parduotoove įdarytas eedareetaas stuffed
market turgus toorgoos jautiena yowtienaa beef
newspaper kiosk spaudos kioskas spoados kyoskaas jūros gėrybės jyooros gereebes seafood
souvenir shop suvenyrų sooveneeroo kava kaavaa coffee
parduotuvė parduotoove kepenėlės kepeneles liver
keptas ant kaptaas aant grilled
Staying in a Hotel grotelių grotalyoo
keptas kaptaas fried/roasted
Have you any Ar turite laisvų Ar toorite līsvoo
keptuvėje/ keptooveye/
vacancies? kambarių? kaambaryoo?
orkaitėje orkaiteye
double room dvivietis dvivietis
kiauliena kyoalienaa pork
with double bed kambarys kaambarees
kiaušinis kyoashinis egg
twin room kambarys su kaambarees soo
košė koshe porridge
dviem lovom dviem lovom
kumpis koompis ham
single room vienvietis kambarys vienvietis
ledai ledai ice cream
kaambarees
mėsa mesaa meat
non-smoking nerūkantiems nerookaantiems
mineralinis mineraalinis mineral
room with a kambarys su kaambarees soo
vanduo vaanduo water
bath/shower vonia/dušu vonyaa/dooshoo
padažas paadaazhaas sauce
porter nešikas neshikaas
pienas pienaas milk
key raktas raaktaas
pipirai pipirai pepper
I have a Mano vardu Maano vardoo
pyragas peeraagaas pie/cake
reservation. rezervuotas. rezervuotaas.
raudonas vynas roadonaas veenaas red wine
rūkyta žuvis rookeetaa zhoovis smoked fish
Sightseeing ryžiai reezhyai rice
bus autobusas owtoboosaas salotos saalotos salad
tram tramvajus traamvaayoos šokoladas shokolaadas chocolate
trolley bus troleibusas troleiboosaas sumuštinis soomooshtinis sandwich
train traukinys troakinees sūris sooris cheese
bus stop autobusų stotelė owtoboosoo stotale sriuba sryoobaa soup
tram stop tramvajaus stotelė traamvaayoas stotale vaisių sultys vīsyoo sooltees fruit juice
art gallery meno galerija mano gaaleriyaa virtas virtaas boiled
palace rūmai roomai virtas garuose virtaas garuose steamed
castle pilis pilis virtiniai virtinyai dumplings
cathedral katedra kaatedraa vištiena vishtienaa chicken
church bažnyčia baazhneechyaa žuvis zhoovis fish
garden sodas sodaas
library biblioteka biblyotekaa Numbers
museum muziejus moozieyoos 0 nulis noolis
tourist turizmo informacija toorizmo 1 vienas vienaas
information informaatsiyaa 2 du doo
closed for nedirbama – nedirbama – 3 trys trees
public holiday valstybinės šventės vaalsteebines 4 keturi ketoori
shventes 5 penki penki
6 šeši sheshi
Eating Out 7 septyni septeeni
A table for … Ar yra staliukas ... Ar eeraa 8 aštuoni aashtuoni
please staalyookaas ... 9 devyni deveeni
I want to reserve Norėčiau rezervuoti Norechyoa rezervuoti 10 dešimt dashimt
a table. staliuką. staalyookaa. 11 vienuolika vienuolikaa
The bill, please! Prašom sąskaitą! Praashom saaskītaa! 12 dvylika dveelikaa
I am a vegetarian. Aš vegetaras. Aash vegetaraas. 13 trylika treelikaa
I’d like … Norėčiau ... Norechyoa ... 14 keturiolika ketooryolikaa
waiter/waitress padavėjas/padavėja paadaaveyaas/ 15 penkiolika penkyolikaa
paadaaveyaa 16 šešiolika sheshyolikaa
menu meniu menyoo 17 septyniolika septeenyolikaa
wine list vynų sąrašas veenoo saaraashaas 18 aštuoniolika aashtuonyolikaa
chef’s special rekomenduojama rekomenduojaamaa 19 devyniolika deveenyolikaa
paragauti paraagowti 20 dvidešimt dvideshimt
tip arbatpinigiai arbaatpinigyai 30 trisdešimt trisdeshimt
glass stiklinė stikline 40 keturiasdešimt ketooryaasdashimt
bottle butelis bootelis 50 penkiasdešimt penkyaasdashimt
knife peilis peilis 60 šešiasdešimt shashyaasdashimt
fork šakutė shaakoote 70 septyniasdešimt septeenyaasdashimt
spoon šaukštas showkshtaas 80 aštuoniasdešimt aashtuonyaas-
breakfast pusryčiai poosreechyai dashimt
lunch pietūs pietoos 90 devyniasdešimt deveenyaasdashimt
dinner vakarienė vaakariene 100 šimtas shimtaas
main courses pagrindiniai paagrindinyai 1000 tūkstantis tookstaantis
patiekalai paatiekaalai
starters pirmieji patiekalai pirmieyi paatiekaalai Time
desserts desertai desertai one minute minutė minoote
rare pusžalis pooszhaalis hour valanda vaalaandaa
well done gerai išvirtas gerai ishvirtaas half an hour pusvalandis poosvaalaandis
Sunday sekmadienis sekmaadienis
Menu Decoder Monday pirmadienis pirmaadienis
actas aatstaas vinegar Tuesday antradienis aantraadienis
alus aaloos beer Wednesday trečiadienis trechyaadienis
arbata arbaataa tea Thursday ketvirtadienis ketvirtaadienis
baltas vynas baaltaas veenaas white wine Friday penktadienis penktaadienis
bekonas bekonaas bacon Saturday šeštadienis sheshtaadienis
bifšteksas bifshteksaas steak
blynas bleenaas pancake
cukrus tsookroos sugar

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

First American Edition, 2009 Putting Estonia, Latvia

Reprinted with revisions 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017 A Portrait of Estonia,

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral in Karosta,

Estonia Through Picturesque Island Castle at Trakai, Lithuania

The History of Latvia 138

Western Latvia 166

Eastern Latvia 186

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

the south, the Baltic States lie on the southeastern shore of

countries. In this book, each

Gulf of Rīga Valga

country is divided into three main

highlighted on other maps

throughout the book.

Raseiniai Ukmergė NORWAY

0 miles 50 N Šilutė ESTONIA

Spit Tauragė Jonava LATVIA

Nynäshamn DENMARK LITHUANIA

Kaunas Vilnius UNITED

country in relation to other

For keys to symbols see back flap

Estonia, Latvia and

divided into three regions region are described

with a map at the start of here, including an

the section. The key to the account of how they

centuries and what Vidzeme and most of Latgale was

they have to oﬀer to the whole of the east fell under

the visitor today. 1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia

chapter’s sights by category, such Exploring Eastern Latvia

centre for Catholic pilgrimage. For most visitors, Lake Turna S e

VALMIERA Vireši Liepna

Towns, Resorts and Villages GULBENE– Viļaka

2 Valmiera DUNTE Old houses RAILWAY Kubuliin history

s Vecpiebalga Vidriži Ūdrupe Balvi

4 Salacgrīva Castle among the trees of Gauja National Park

5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI JA P uj

2 Regional Map 7 Dunte ja Ostrov

This map shows the

Ropaži Mergupe Ērgļi

road network and gives y Krāslava

u Aglona IKŠĶILE Cirma

topography of the entire

region. All the sights are

numbered and there are

also useful tips on getting Key

around by car, bus and train. Main road

Minor road 0 kilometres 20

234 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION VILNIUS 235

Street-by-Street: Town Hall Šv Kazimiero

3 Street-by-Street Map cobblestone street

sightseeing area. The

ties in with the area map

of the entries on the pages

A suggested route takes in some of Suggested route

the fascinating and attractive streets in d Contemporary Art Centre

oldest, Vokiečių Street

Numbers refer to each

Deriving its name from the

individually. They are listed in an

information about his- 1989 and reconsecrated a year before

torical or cultural topics