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Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
ESTONIA, LATVIA
& LITHUANIA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ESTONIA, LATVIA
& LITHUANIA
Contents
How to Use
this Guide 6
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Design Managers Sunita Gahir, Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Alka Thakur Introducing
Project Designer Rajnish Kashyap
Editors Jyoti Kumari, Ipshita Nandi Estonia, Latvia
Designers Namrata Adhwaryu, Anchal Kaushal
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya and Lithuania
Cartographers Mohammad Hassan, Jasneet Kaur
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Assistant Picture Researcher Shweta Andrews
Senior Dtp Designer Vinod Harish
Dtp Designer Azeem Siddiqui
Contributors
Howard Jarvis, John Oates, Tim Ochser, Neil Taylor
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Linda Whitwam Door knocker, Tallinn
Illustrators
Chinglemba Chingtham, Sanjeev Kumar, Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Suman Saha, Discovering Estonia,
Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner, Chapel Design & Marketing Ltd
Latvia and Lithuania 10
Printed and bound in China
A Portrait of Estonia 48
Lithuania Through
the Year 212
The History of
Lithuania 214 Amber jewellery, sold in souvenir shops all
over the Baltic region
Vilnius 220
Survival Guide
Central Lithuania 252
Practical Information 364
Western Lithuania 272
Statue of King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden,
Tartu, Estonia Travel Information 376
Travellers’ Needs
Latvia Region Where to Stay 292 General Index 394
by Region
Where to Eat and
Acknowledgments 408
Latvia at Drink 308
a Glance 130
Shopping 332 Phrase Book 411
A Portrait of
Latvia 132
Latvia Through
the Year 136
Rīga 142
18 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A Helsinki,
St Petersburg
P U T T I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A O N T H E M A P 19
Putting Estonia, Latvia and
Putting Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania on the Map
Mariehamn,
Stockholm
Kapellskar Tallinn
Tapa
Rakvere
Sillamäe
Jõhvi
Narva
Chudovo Lithuania on the Map
Luga
Slantsy
With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski
Lihula
E S T O N I A
Pe i p s i
Strugi Krasnye
Zapolye
Shimsk
location of the Baltic States in
flat terrain in comparison to the other two countries. The Island Tartu
three capital cities – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – are home
to around a third of the region’s 6.3 million people. Saaremaa
Island
Pärnu
Viljandi
Lake
Vortsjärv relation to their neighbouring
R U S S I A
Porkhov
Stockholm
Valmiera
Alūksne Ostrov
Chikhachevo
Ventspils
Cape Kolka
Cēsis
Smiltene
Gulbene
Pytalovo
sightseeing areas that are covered
Gauja
L A T V I A
in a full chapter. These areas are
Talsi Sigulda
Opochka
Nynashamn, Rīga Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Tukums Jūrmala
Travemunde
Sabile Ogre Ludza Pustoshka
Utena
Karlshamn,
Kiel Klaipėda Gargždai L I T H U A N I A SWEDEN
FINLAND
Curonian
North
un
European countries.
Lebork CROATIA ROMANIA
Nemunas
Varėna SERBIA
Gdańsk ITALY
Lazdijai BULGARIA
Elblag
P O L A N D SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida
by Region
Each country has been
1 Introduction
The landscape, history
and character of each
EASTERN LATVIA
The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as
rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
When the German crusaders arrived, best-known writers and musicians. Today
symbols is on the back flap. have changed over the lived further east in what is now Latgale. and historical attractions.
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled
west and east of Vidzeme, while central by Poland until 1772. The Polish
as Churches and Cathedrals, The most popular tourist attraction in Eastern Latvia is Gauja
National Park, which combines beautiful forests with attractions
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
such as the historic town of Cēsis and the restored Turaida Castle.
Towns, Resorts and Villages and A significant part of the region is covered by the North Vidzeme
Biosphere Reserve, famous for its coastal meadows, sandstone
Unguriņi
that run several times a day. The public transport
network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
cliffs and extensive wetlands. The route from Rīga to when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
Islands and National Parks. Daugavpils, the regional capital, runs along the
Daugava Valley and includes several worthwhile Pe
d ele
Tartu
towns, but services are not very frequent.
MAZSALACA Valka
stops, while the cathedral at Aglona is a major AINAŽI a Staicele
ac Pskov
da
Burtnieks Rencēni
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its Zabolova
SALACGRĪVA Vilzēni e
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and m
ze
Drieliņi Vijciems
Lubāns, the two largest in the country. G a uja Lāzbergi
Gaujiena
id Abul
Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
V
s
Smiltene G
Sights at a Glance LIMBAŽI
sa
Umurga
au
l Kuprava
Pa Jaunanna
ja
Jelgavkrasti Mālumuiža
o Rēzekne
AL
3 Ainaži
A AT
Skulte Cēsis
d Alūksne
ze
TuraidaGulbene
pe
Peded
Inciems Čilipīne
Balu
Lautere Lubāna
q Skrīveri
Mālpils
ču
Lake Žogotas
Lubāns
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga
Ķeipene
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93 Bērzaune Lazdona Dricāni Aizpūre
Rēze
Zaļmežnieki
Malt
Tour
L AT G
an overview of the
Ai Ņukši
AL
KOKNESE Atašiene
SKRĪVERI Kūkas
E
Troškas Čornaja
LA
Taurkaene
JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši
Nagļi
Riebiņi L a Malta S Rāzna
E
Lake D
Piksteres Birži aug
av
tg Čerņavski
Viesīte a LĪVĀNI PREIĻI a Puša Lake
le
Du
Ežezers
Rušons Bērziņi
Zalve Stacija
a
Ērberğe Jersika
Slate Kapiņi Dagda
AGLONA
Nereta Aknīste
Asūne
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
Motorway Silene
Railway 0 miles 20
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–303 and pp324–5 For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
view of interesting and The buildings are elegantly designed with symmetrical
façades, reflecting an unmistakable Italian influence.
Nonetheless, the mystical atmosphere, so unique to Vilnius,
f. Church of St Casimir
This church was the city’s
museum of atheism from 1963 Church of the
important parts of each distinguishes the area from any other European city. to 1991. The crown symbolizes
St Casimir’s royal lineage.
Holy Spirit
VĖ
j . Church of St Theresa
AT
Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered
G
numbering of the sights
M
for her mystical writings, adorn the
D
U
vaulted nave of the church. The
AU
IA
frescoes were painted in the late
KŠOS GAT VĖ
18th century following a fire.
A
D
B
ŽI
SU
OJ
I
GA
T V
s Town Hall Ė
and the fuller description With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.
AUŠROS VAR TŲ GAT V
Ė
Ė
T V
that follow.
GA
A
R
K
L
VĖ
NŲ
Ių
RŪDN
AT
Ų G G
EČI A
JO
VOKI T
V
Ė
LI
INKų
ZI
BA
GA
V T
Ė
Key
92
1
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Paldiski
Road Map C1. * 4,000. £
@ 145 from Tallinn. ∑ paldiski.ee
4 Detailed Information
All the major cities, towns and
tourist attractions are described
Estonian pronunciation of past the spa hall at Kuursaal and summer of 1867 in Haapsalu. Living
in a small house on Suur-Mere
Environs 2 Haapsalu
inspired by an Estonian folk song. promenade in Haapsalu
on the area map at the start
The Soviets finally withdrew in Pakri, a stunning peninsula
Road Map C2. * 12,000. @ from
the island and its beautiful 4 Matsalu National
1994 and the town quickly fell
into chronic disrepair. The
Swedish director Lukas
3 km (2 miles) west of Paldiski,
boasts Estonia’s tallest light-
house. Also here are the ruins of
Tallinn. g from Hiiumaa, Vormsi.
n Karja 15, 473 3248. _ Early Music
Festival (4–8 Jul), White Lady Days
landscapes make it perfect for
hiking and cycling. The island
is well known for its lush
Park
Matsalu rahvuspark of the section.
Moodysson shot his Peter the Great’s ambitious but pine forests and an abundance Road Map C2. n Matsalu Nature
(Aug). ∑ haapsalu.ee
extraordinarily bleak film unfinished fortress project. of juniper bushes, as well as Centre, Penijõe Manor; 472 4236.
Lilya-4-Ever (2002) in Paldiski, Situated on a small spit of land spectacular stretches of Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun. 8 ∑ matsalu.ee
though it was described as an jutting out into a narrow bay, rocky coastline.
unnamed “former republic of the popular resort town of Some people believe that
the Soviet Union” in the film. Haapsalu dates back to the 13th Vormsi means “Snakes Island”, as Situated around the narrow
Located 52 km (32 miles) century. Its impressive Bishop’s the name derives from the old Matsalu Bay, Matsalu National
west of Tallinn, Paldiski is a Castle ruins still serve as the Swedish word for snake. Others, Park was founded in 1957 as a
fascinating place to visit main focal point for the town, however, claim that it was sanctuary for nesting and
and it attracts a steady stream despite the fact that its named after a pirate called Orm. migratory birds. The area is a
of tourists. The countless formidable fortifications were Picturesque houses in one of the villages on Either way, Vormsi Island was bird-watcher’s paradise, with
derelict military buildings largely dismantled by Peter the Vormsi Island home to some 2,000 Swedes some 275 species found in its
testify to the prominent role Great in the 18th century. The prior to World War II, and their coastal wetlands. Six obser-
Paldiski once played in the castle watchtower houses the 3 Vormsi Island influence can be seen all over vation towers dotted along the
Soviet defence system. Today, Castle Museum, displaying the island. coast offer the chance to see
Road Map C1. * 350. @ from
however, the town is slowly medieval weaponry. The Haapsalu. g from Rohuküla, 10 km
The island’s main settlement the fauna and birdlife up
but surely being revitalized. adjoining Dome Cathedral is (6 miles) W of Haapsalu. ∑ vormsi.ee is Hullo, 3 km (2 miles) west of close. Viewing platforms
The port area is booming and the largest single-nave church the ferry port at Sviby. The overlook some of the islets
Paldiski’s natural beauty makes in the Baltic region. Estonia’s fourth-largest island, 14th-century St Olav’s Church and coastal meadows. Most
it an attractive site for The red-painted lighthouse at Pakri, Over the course of the 19th Vormsi is only 10 km (6 miles) by is especially worth visiting for its of the observation towers are
residential development. near Paldiski century, Haapsalu became a 20 km (12 miles) in size. The Baroque pulpit and a cemetery reached by car or bus,
fashionable holiday resort, island is ruggedly beautiful and with a striking collection of although Penijõe tower, on the
famed for its curative mud blissfully unspoiled despite circular Swedish crosses bank of the Penijõe river, is a
Estonia’s Swedish Community
treatments and pretty beaches. being only 3 km (2 miles) looming out of hand-made short walk from the Matsalu
Swedish settlers in Estonia were first mentioned in 1294 in Haapsalu’s Its landmark 216-m (709-ft) long from the mainland. The size of mounds of grass. Nature Centre.
town records. It is generally thought that Swedes settled along
the western coastal areas in the 13th and 14th centuries to secure
trade routes. From 1561 to 1700 Estonia was directly under Swedish
train platform is an enduring
monument to the era when
Russian royalty and high society
The visitors’ checklist gives all the
rule. By the early 20th century, there were some 8,000 Swedish-
speaking Estonians, most of
whom lived on Vormsi Island and
flocked to the town every
summer. The platform was built
in 1904 to receive Tsar Nicholas
practical information needed to
in the Haapsalu region. The
Estonian-Swedes were a
recognized minority with their
own periodical and distinct
II and his entourage, and its
ornate wooden canopy was
designed to protect them from
plan your visit.
cultural identity. However, the bad weather. The station closed
majority of them fled to Sweden in 1995 and the building now
during World War II. It is estimated houses the Estonian Railway
that some 2,000 Estonian-Swedes Museum with models of
remained behind, but life in the engines used between the late
Soviet Union soon effaced their 19th and early 20th centuries.
Swedish circular crosses in St Olav’s way of life and they effectively Paralepa Beach, just to the
Church cemetery, Hullo disappeared as a minority. west of the station, is Haapsalu’s
228 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION VILNIUS 229
most popular bathing spot. The Matsalu Bay islet, part of the idyllic Matsalu National Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp297–8 and pp316–18
8 Vilnius Cathedral High Altar
The marvellously
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika intricate tabernacle door
Practical Information
on the High Altar, which
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
was created in the 1620s,
Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251, Vilnius Tel 85261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
is fashioned from gold
daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th century. and silver. Two biblical
to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius, brought scenes, the Last Supper
souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
and Christ Washing the
the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque Vilnius, his northern entrance for timings
Disciples’ Feet, are
idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being a visual and prices. =
beautifully depicted on
re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was closed by the panel.
Story boxes provide the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use as a garage
for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened as a picture Valavičius Chapel
Members of the Valavičius family
gallery. It was eventually returned to the Catholic Church in
Stucco Sculpture
A sculpture depicting a . St Casimir’s Chapel
5 Major Sights
Historic buildings are dissected to
reveal their interiors.
INTRODUCING
ESTONIA, LATVIA
AND LITHUANIA
DISCOVERING ESTONIA,
LATVIA AND LITHUANIA
The following itineraries have been begins with a two-day tour of the country’s
designed to take in as many of the Baltic distinctive and characterful capital city,
States’ highlights as possible, covering the followed by 12 days exploring the rest of
beautiful and diverse landscapes of each the country. Pick, combine and follow your
country, while keeping long-distance travel favourite tours, or simply dip in and out
to a minimum. Each of the three itineraries and be inspired.
Tallinn
Kärdla
Kõpu
Haapsalu
Hiiumaa Island
Sõru
Muhu Island
Angla
Saaremaa Island
Sigulda
Riga
Pavilosta
Jaunpils
Castle
14 Days in Estonia
Jelgava
Liepāja
•
Admire the meticulously Rundāle
restored buildings of Palace
Tallinn’s Old Town.
•
Visit the historic windmills, Hill of Crosses
Palanga
thatched barns and inns Šiauliai
at the Estonian Open- Klaipėda
Air Museum. Curonian Spit
•
Relish the unspoiled nature
National Park LITHUANIA
on sparsely populated Nida
Hiiumaa Island.
•
Marvel at a meteor’s impact Kaunas
at the Kaali Crater on Pažaislis Monastery
Saaremaa Island. Rumšiškes
Trakai
•
Spend a day boating on Island
Castle
Lake Võrtsjärv.
•
Don a hard hat and head Key
deep under the ground at
14 Days in Estonia
the Kohtla Underground
Mining Museum. 14 Days in Latvia Druskininkai
14 Days in Lithuania
14 Days in Latvia
•
Immerse yourself in the •
Look out for bears
warren of narrow streets and elk in Gauja
in Rīga’s Old Town. National Park.
•
Appreciate the •
Explore the picturesque
marvellous Art Nouveau waters of the Latgale
architecture of Rīga’s Lakes region.
Quiet Centre. •
Visit the stunning
•
Relax on the windswept 18th-century Rundāle
beaches of Latvia’s Palace, one of the finest
western coast. in the Baltic States.
Lahemaa
National Park
Ontika Rīga’s Art Nouveau Architecture, Latvia
Coast
Palmse
Sillamäe The Quiet Centre in Rīga has the finest
Narva collection of Art Nouveau buildings in
Kohtla Underground
Mining Museum Europe, including this elaborate edifice
designed by Mikhail Eisenstein in 1905.
ESTONIA Mustvee
Raja
Lake
Peipsi
14 Days in Lithuania
Tartu
Rannu •
Lose yourself in the
Lake Kiidjärve-
Võrtsjärv Taevaskoja Area
labyrinthine streets of
Vilnius’s Old Town.
•
Investigate the quirky cafés
and galleries of Vilnius’s
artists’ republic of Užupis.
•
Step back in time at Trakai
Cēsis
Island Castle and then drift
Līgatne
past it in a pedalo.
•
Enjoy a day of being pamper-
ed and pummelled in the
L AT V I A Lake
Lubāns spa resort of Druskininkai.
Ludza
•
Discover unspoilt nature at
Rēzekne Aukštaitija National Park.
Jēkabpils
Lake
•
Stand atop the shifting
Aglona Ežezers sands of the Curonian
Spit’s giant dunes.
Daugavpils
Aukštaitija
National Park
Ignalina
Vilnius
Day 7 Pärnu
Return to the mainland via
Muhu Island and head for
Pärnu (pp102–103), Estonia’s
summer capital and most
popular seaside resort.
Attractions include a lovely
7 km (4 mile) sandy beach,
historic Old Town buildings
and several peaceful parks.
Boulders along the coastline of Käsmu peninsula in Lahemaa National Park
Day 8 Tartu
There’s plenty to see in Estonia’s picturesque Kiidjärve- constructed during the Soviet
vibrant college town, Tartu Taevaskoja Recreational Area era along with a uranium mine
(pp118–21), home to the is a wonderful spot for picnics (closed in 1991), for the Soviet
venerable Tartu University and hiking. It’s home to nuclear programme. Today its
and around 20,000 students. Kiidjärve Watermill (p126) and ornate Stalinist-era buildings are
The 14th-century St John’s the stunning Taevaskoja an intriguing sight.
Church has a fascinating interior Sandstone Cliffs (p126), which
containing terracotta figures and tower over the Ahja river. Day 13 Along the north coast
the Tartu Art Museum houses The limestone cliffs of the
a fine collection of Estonian art Day 10 Lake Võrtsjärv Ontika Coast (p115), just west
in a leaning building. The KGB For a day of boating, sun- of Sillamäe, are a magnificent
Cells Museum sheds a grim bathing and swimming, head sight and well worth visiting for
light on the activities of the west to Lake Võrtsjärv (p122), the views across the Gulf of
Soviet agency and the suffering Estonia’s second-largest lake. Finland alone. Spend the
of many Estonians under the Stop at the visitor centre in afternoon at the Kohtla
regime. Toomemägi (Cathedral Rannu to organize boat hire or Underground Mining
Hill) (pp120–21) features pretty book a tour of the lake aboard Museum (p115) for a fascinating
historic buildings amidst a historic wooden sailing guided tour deep within the oil-
parkland and a warren of boat (kalepurjekas). shale mine before continuing to
narrow streets. Palmse within Lahemaa
Day 11 North to Narva National Park (pp110–14).
From Tartu, travel north to the
historic border town of Narva Day 14 Lahemaa National
(p116), breaking the three-hour Park
journey on the shores of Lake The grand manor houses at
Peipsi (p127), which straddles Palmse (p112) and Sagadi
the border with Russia. At over (p113) both provide an intrigu-
3,500 sq km (1,350 sq miles), it’s ing glimpse of 18th-century
Europe’s fifth largest lake. Aim aristocratic life. From Palmse
for lakeshore villages Mustvee consider a trip to the tiny
and Raja (p127), where Old coastal village of Võsu (p112)
Believers still follow traditional or head to pretty Käsmu
ways of life. Mustvee’s small village (p112). If time allows
museum offers an illuminating visit the fishing village of Altja
glimpse into the history and (p113) to see its traditional
daily lives of the community. thatched-roof houses before
returning to Tallinn.
Day 12 Narva and Sillamäe
The renovated medieval cathedral, now a The sheer-sided castle, the To extend your trip…
library, in the Toomemägi area, Tartu museum in the castle’s tall white Spend a day hiking or hire a
tower and the neighbouring bicycle to tour the Käsmu
Day 9 Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja riverside park are the highlights peninsula (p114), exploring
Recreational Area of the border city of Narva (see the striking outcrop of giant
In the Põlva region, 50 km p116), where 96 per cent of the boulders and historic
(31 miles) south of Tartu and population speaks Russian. Käsmu village (p112).
perfect for a day trip, the Nearby Sillamäe (p115) was
14 I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
14 Days in Latvia
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Rīga Airport.
•
Transport This tour can be
made using Latvia’s bus and
rail network, but hiring a car
would allow more flexibility.
Day 1 Rīga
Morning Start the day with a
visit to the Old Town, Rīga’s
ancient heart. The city lost
many of its splendid historic The wonderfully reconstructed buildings of Town Hall Square, Rīga
buildings during World War II,
but a large number have been contemporary historical historic buildings and sculpture
meticulously restored in recent perspective head for the nearby park at Turaida Museum
years. The area around Town Museum of the Barricades of Reserve (p192) are also worth
Hall Square (see pp150–51) is 1991 (p146), which documents visiting and are just a few
dominated by the mighty the Latvian people’s overthrow kilometres from Sigulda.
St Peter’s Church (p153), of Communist rule.
and many of the area’s other Day 4 Gauja National Park –
magnificent buildings, including Day 2 Rīga Līgatne and Cēsis
Mentzendorff House (p152) Morning Choose either to From Sigulda, travel northeast
and the Town Hall, have explore the UNESCO-listed Art to Līgatne and the Līgatne
been returned to their former Nouveau architecture of Rīga’s Education and Recreation
glory. The immense Soviet- Quiet Centre (pp156–7) or Centre (p193). This delightful
era Modernist slab of concrete travel to Dauderi (p160), the wooded nature park is home
which normally houses the stately Neo-Gothic mansion to brown bears, beavers, elk,
Museum of the Occupation once used as the presidential lynx and European bison and
of Latvia (p152), currently summer residence, and now can be explored either on foot
closed for renovation, is housing a rather eclectic or by car. Continue northeast
generally considered an eyesore. museum on local history. to lovely Cēsis (p192), one of
Neighbouring Mežaparks Latvia’s oldest towns, where
Afternoon After lunching at (p160) is a residential district the narrow streets are lined
one of the Old Town’s many of lovely Modernist and Art with 18th and 19th-century
outdoor restaurants, enter the Nouveau homes popular with wooden and stone houses.
cool interior of the 13th-century well-to-do Latvians.
Dome Cathedral (p146), the To extend your trip…
largest place of worship in the Afternoon Don’t miss the Rent a canoe and spend a
Baltics, before continuing to the Latvian Ethnographic Open- day or two paddling along
Museum of Rīga’s History and Air Museum (p163), a vast the Gauja river. You can
Navigation (p146) at the rear of expanse of woodland on the arrange boat hire and
the cathedral. For a more shores of Lake Jugla dotted with transport through a river-trip
thatched homesteads, churches, specialist (p359 and p361).
windmills and other traditional
structures from all over the coun-
try – they provide a wonderful Day 5 On to Ventspils
insight into Latvia’s rural history. Head back to Rīga before
continuing west to the historic
Day 3 Gauja National Park – coastal town of Ventspils
Around Sigulda (pp180–81), where pleasant
Sigulda (p192) lies 50 km cafés, parks and a white sandy
(31 miles) northeast of Rīga and beach await.
makes a great base for explor-
ing the forested wilderness of Day 6 Ventspils
Gauja National Park (pp190– Despite its long heritage as a
93). Named after the river that trading centre and member of
wends its way through the the Hanseatic League, Ventspils
park’s sandstone hills, it’s a was little more than a tanker
Ventspils Castle, a 14th-century Livonian wonderful place to hike and the port for much of the Soviet era
Order stronghold in the resort of Ventspils trails are very well marked. The and has only recently become
For practical information on travelling around Latvia, see pp382–7
D I S C O V E R I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 15
Day 10 Palanga
From Šiauliai , head west to
the coastal town of Palanga
(p286) and spend a peaceful
afternoon on the sandy beach
before joining locals and
tourists on the pier to watch
the sunset.
Day 11 Klaipėda
Lithuania’s only seaport,
Klaipėda (see pp284–5) is a
Tranquil lake fringed by thick forest and marshy shores, Aukštaitija National Park popular spot with an atmos-
pheric Old Town and a vibrant
wonderful collection of To extend your trip… nightlife scene. Pay a visit to the
traditional buildings from Hire a rowing boat at Palušė Clock Museum to marvel at its
around the country that have and follow the circular water intriguing collection of time-
been meticulously reassembled trail around the lakes. pieces from all over the world
in picturesque surroundings. and consider a visit to the
Picture Gallery and the large
Day 6 Druskininkai Day 9 Šiauliai sculpture park just behind.
Travel south to Druskininkai Head 240 km (150 miles) west
(p259) and spend the rest of the to Šiauliai (pp276–7), historic Day 12 Curonian Spit
day relaxing in this tranquil spa site of the Battle of the Sun in Accessible by ferry from
resort where numerous spa 1236, which saw the defeat of Klaipėda to Smiltynė , the
centres offer massage, mud the Livonian Order at the hands Curonian Spit (pp288–9) is
baths, beauty treatments and of the pagan Samogitians. one of Lithuania’s most
mineral water cures. Today it’s a thriving modern remarkable natural sights.
city with a well-preserved Old No more than 4 km (2 miles)
To extend your trip… Town and numerous museums, wide at any point and as
Spend a day hiking or but it’s probably best-known narrow as 400 m (440 yards)
cycling along well-marked for the incredible Hill of in places, it’s a slender sliver
paths in the forests Crosses (see p277), just a little of land made up of sand dunes,
surrounding Druskininkai. ways north at Jurgaičių. The beaches and woods that
small hill is covered with stretch from Klaipėda to
thousands upon thousands the Sambian Peninsula in
Day 7 Aukštaitija National of crosses and religious sculp- Kaliningrad. Enjoy a peaceful
Park tures from all over the world, stay at one of the many small
From Druskininkai, take the and is almost as much a guesthouses in and around
northeastern road via Vilnius Nida (p306), which can be
to Ignalina, a small rural town reached by minibus.
that lies just outside Aukštaitija
National Park. Day 13 Curonian Spit
Spend the day exploring the
Day 8 Aukštaitija National Curonian Spit on foot or by
Park bicycle. Points of interest
Dotted with glacial lakes, rock include the Hill of Witches
formations, and ancient pine, (p289) created by local sculptors
spruce and birch forests, just outside Juodkrantė , and
Aukštaitija National Park the 52-m (171-ft) Parnidis
(see pp270–71) is a delightful Dune (p288), which offers
area to explore. Worthwhile marvellous views of the area.
sights include Salos II Cultural
Reserve for its exhibition of Day 14 Curonian Spit
traditional thatched houses, to Vilnius
and Ladakalnis Hill for its The journey back to Vilnius by
panoramic view of the The popular 18-km (11-mile) beach at the car, bus or train takes around
national park. resort of Palanga 5 hours.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A Helsinki,
St Petersburg
Mariehamn,
Putting Estonia, Latvia and Stockholm
With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski
Gulf of Rīga
Stockholm
Cape Kolka
Ventspils
Talsi Gauja
Nynashamn, Rīga
Tukums Jūrmala
Travemunde
Sabile
Kuldīga
Key
Pāvilosta Jelgava
Motorway Baltic
Saldus Dobele
Major road Sea
Minor road Liepāja
Railway line
Joniškis
International border
Mažeikiai
Telšiai Šiauliai
Travemunde
Palanga Plungė
Karlshamn,
Kiel Klaipėda Gargždai L I T H
0 kilometres Raseiniai
50
0 miles 50 N Šilutė
em
Curonian
u
Spit Tauragė
na
s
Nynäshamn Jurbarkas
Kaliningrad Vilkaviškis
Marijampolė
KALININGRAD
Lebork
(RUSSIA)
Gdańsk
Lazdijai
Elblag
P O L A N D
Sillamäe
Narva
Jõhvi Chudovo
Rakvere
Tapa
Luga
Slantsy
Veliky Novgorod
Paide
Lake Plyussa
Pe i p s i Zapolye
Shimsk
E S T O N I A Strugi Krasnye
Tartu
Viljandi
Lake
Vortsjärv
R U S S I A
Porkhov
Pskov
Otepää Võru
Dedovichi
Valga
Chikhachevo
Valmiera Ostrov
Alūksne
Bezhanitsy
Smiltene
Cēsis Pytalovo
Gulbene
Sigulda
L A T V I A
Opochka
Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Da
ug Rēzekne
ava
Jēkabpils
Preiļi Nevel
Biržai
Krāslava
Rokiškis Daugavpils BELARUS
Europe
Panevėžys
Utena
U A N I A SWEDEN
FINLAND
Ukmergė NORWAY
Molėtai
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
Jonava North
Sea LATVIA
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Kaišiadorys
Varėna SERBIA
ITALY
BULGARIA
SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida
20 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
Architectural Styles
Ever since the wooden fortifications of the Baltic tribes were
replaced by stone castles in the 13th and 14th centuries,
foreign influences have dominated the architecture of
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Today, the Baltic capitals are
architectural treasure troves, with Tallinn particularly noted
for its medieval buildings, Vilnius for its Italian Baroque and
Rīga for its Art Nouveau. The Soviet era saw the building of
inexpensive mass housing. Since independence private
investment has funded ambitious new projects. Detail of the extravagant Gothic brickwork
of Perkūnas House, Kaunas
Pažaislis Monastery, in
Kaunas, is one of Eastern
Europe’s most
prominent Baroque
monuments. Built in the
17th century by Italian
architects, the
monastery church has a The House of Blackheads, in Tallinn, was
twin-towered façade, used by the Brotherhood of Blackheads.
behind which soars the It was formerly a 14th-century building,
52-m (171-ft) dome. which was redesigned in a Renaissance
A wealth of marble style in 1597. The interiors were renovated
enriches the interior. in Neo-Classical style in 1908.
A P O R T R A I T O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 21
The National
Library, in Tallinn, is
an architectural
triumph of the late
Soviet period. Raine
Karp, the Estonian
architect who
designed it, used
local dolomitic
limestone.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
Forest Wetlands
Around 40 per cent of the total landscape in The extensive wetlands of the region are ideal
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania is forested. Pine, habitats for migrating birds, and for supporting
spruce and birch are the main species, alongside plants such as cranberries and orchids. In
other trees such as oak, ash, elm and maple. Estonia, raised bogs in which thick layers of peat
Trees were highly valued in the region’s have built up are common. Many are protected
pre-Christian religions. by national parks.
Elk is a game
Brown bears are species that
omnivores and can usually lives in
be spotted in the forests and
forests of Estonia and wetlands. It often
Latvia, although they appears on
are usually sighted restaurant
only with the help menus in the
of a guide. Baltic States.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
Religion
Although the Baltic lands were officially Christian by the end
of the 14th century, pagan beliefs persisted and mingled
with the new religion. Protestantism left its mark in the
16th century, but Lithuania soon returned to the Catholic
fold. Today, it is the only Baltic State where the church plays
a major public role – in Estonia and Latvia, the surge in
religious participation after independence in 1991 proved
short-lived. A significant number of ethnic Russians belong Aerial view of the Orthodox Cathedral in
Rīga, Latvia
to the Russian Orthodox church, while other minority
religious groups include Jews and Muslims.
Orthodox Christianity
Orthodox missionaries arrived
in the region as early as the
10th century but had little
success. Orthodox Christianity
was largely eclipsed by
Catholicism, except among
the Setu (see p124). This
changed only under Russian
rule in the 19th century, with
many magnificent Orthodox
churches built at that time.
Today, almost all Orthodox
worshippers in the region are
ethnic Russians. Their churches
Priest performing a Romuva ritual based on ancient pagan beliefs are known for the abundance
of icons – images of Christ,
deities show aspects of one Mary and various saints – often
Paganism divine being. Pagan overtones displayed in rows on a screen
Christianity came late to the are still present in a number of called an iconostasis. The
Baltic region, with the Grand Christian celebrations. region also contains small
Duchy of Lithuania holding out The first period of indepen- communities of Old Believers
until 1387, a year after Grand dence in the 20th century saw (see p126), descendants of
Duke Jogaila was baptized. The attempts to revive old worshippers who broke away
details of pagan beliefs are traditions. Some local organi- from the Orthodox Church in
sparse, and scholars rely on zations, such as Dievturība in protest against reforms
surviving traditions and folk Latvia, were nationalist in tone. introduced by Patriarch Nikon
songs. Animism, the belief that After years of Soviet margina- in 1652. Bringing Russian
plants and animals possess lization, Dievturība has now Orthodox rites in line with the
spirits, prevailed. Trees had been revived, though the Greek, his motives were both
great significance, with prayers Lithuanian pagan group religious and political. The Old
offered at sacred groves. Romuva has a stronger Believers sought to retain the
Shamans communicated following in the country. purity of their faith, and the
with the gods, but there was
no organized priesthood. For
Latvians and Lithuanians major
deities included Dievs or Dievas
(the Sky God), Saule (the Sun),
Pērkons or Perkūnas (Thunder),
Velns or Velnias (Trickster),
Mēness or Menulis (the Moon)
and Laima (Fate). The Estonians
and Livs (see p176) worshipped
Taara (War), Uku (Thunder and
Lightning), Vanetooni (the Dead),
Maaema (Land), Ahti (Water)
and Vanejumi (Fertility). Some
scholars argue that these various Devotees lined up in Alexander Nevsky Church, Tallinn, Estonia
A P O R T R A I T O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 25
Famous People
A history of cultural domination by other nations explains why
only a handful of figures from the Baltic States are internationally
known. It was only with the 19th-century national awakening
movements that the notion of distinctive Baltic cultures gained
popularity. After the brief confidence of the first independence,
the restrictions of the Soviet era meant that most famous
people from the region were either of Russian heritage or
were living outside their native countries. In the years since
independence in 1991, the arts have been hampered by
A portrait by Michael Sittow, a
reduced state funding. 15th-century Tallinn-born artist
Visual Arts
Estonia’s best-known painter was Eduard Wiiralt (1898–
1954), while in the 20th century animators Elbert Tuganov
(1920–2007) and Priit Pärn (b.1946) gained international
praise. Within Latvia, painter Janis Rozentāls (1866–1916)
remains most beloved, although Mark Rothko (see p200) is
more famed abroad. Lithuania has produced several
notable photographers, including Antanas Sutkus (b.1939).
Literature
Key to the 19th-century national awareness was the
preservation and creation of stories by authors such
as Latvian Andrejs Pumpurs (1841–1902), Estonian
Friedrich Kreutzwald (1803–82) and Lithuanian Jonas
Mačiulis (1862–1932). Modern literature is equally
celebrated and famous contemporary authors include
Estonian poets Jaan Kaplinski (b.1941) and Jaan Kross
(1920–2007), and Lithuanian novelists Ričardas Gavelis
(1950–2002) and Jurga Ivanauskaitė (1961–2007).
Music
Estonia has a strong tradition of classical
composition. Veljo Tormis (b.1930) is Arvo Pärt (b.1935), an
influenced by Estonian folk music, while Estonian composer, made
Erkki-Sven Tüür (b.1959) mixes avant-garde early experiments with
techniques with early music and progressive Schoenberg’s 12-tone
technique and the use of
rock. The father of Latvian classical music is
chance. He is internationally
Jāzeps Vītols (1863–1948), and the country is
known for “sacred
also known for pop and rock performers minimalism”, drawing on
such as the band Brainstorm. Lithuania is medieval traditions and
renowned for jazz musicians, including the Orthodox Christianity. Pärt
Ganelin Trio, while its finest classical describes his music as
composer was M K Čiurlionis. tintinnabuli (like bells).
Mikhail Baryshnikov
(b.1948), born in Rīga, is
of Russian descent.
Baryshnikov began his
ballet studies in the Latvian
city before progressing to
Leningrad (now St Voldemar Panso (1920–77), the
Petersburg). He defected famous theatre director, rejected
while on tour in Canada in Soviet ideology in favour of com-
1974. He later became a plex characters and the ambiguity
citizen of the USA and of Symbolism. He also founded the
founded a dance centre in Estonian Youth Theatre (later the
New York. Tallinn City Theatre).
Sport
The talent of Baltic athletes was, for many decades, obscured by
their status as Soviet citizens. Estonia’s most famous Olympian
was heavyweight wrestler Kristjan Palusalu (1908–87), while
Latvian long-distance walker Jānis Daliņš (1904–78) won the
Olympic silver in 1932. Lithuania’s top Olympic athlete is discus-
thrower Virgilijus Alekna (b.1972). The region has also produced
exceptional basketball players, including Lithuanian Arvydas
Sabonis (b.1964), Latvian Uljana Semjonova (b.1952) and
Estonian Tiit Sokk (b.1964).
Monophonic
Estonian songs,
or runo, are related
to those from
Finland, and their Baltica Festival
roots are much
older than those This annual international folklore festival
of Latvia and was first held in Estonia in 1987 and is
Lithuania. The Setu hosted cyclically by the Baltic States. The
people of Eastern three Baltic flags were hoisted together for
Estonia have their the first time during the second festival in
own distinctive 1987. Today, the festival brings together
polyphonic around 3,000 participants and includes
singing traditions. concerts, parades and workshops.
Veronika
Povilionienė
(b.1946) has
enjoyed success
since the late
1960s, initially
promoting folk
singing as a mode
of anti-Soviet
protest. In recent
years, she has also
recorded pop and
jazz albums.
Baltic Amber
Amber has been valued for millennia, with amber jewellery
found dating back to the early Neolithic period (around 7000 BC).
Many medical authorities of the ancient world, including
Hippocrates, believed that amber had healing properties. A trade
network, now known as the Amber Road, arose at the height of
the Roman Empire. In the medieval period, amber was used to
make rosaries. Today, it still washes up on Latvian and Lithuanian
shores, although 90 per cent of the world’s amber is mined in the
Curonian Spit of neighbouring Kaliningrad. One of the many amber stalls
found in tourist areas
Identifying Amber
Sellers may pass off copal or plastic as genuine amber. Genuine
amber floats in salt water and exudes a pine scent when touched
with a red-hot needle, but only laboratory tests are conclusive.
Formation of Amber
Before it is washed up on the coasts of the Baltic States, which happens especially after raging storms,
amber takes millions of years to transform from pine resin into a sought-after substance. Often clear,
amber can also contain pine needles or insects which were trapped in the resin before it solidified.
Ventspils •
Liepāja LATVIA
•
Juodkrantė • LITHUANIA
Amber in Folklore
A popular Lithuanian folk tale recounts the love
between the fisherman Kastytis and the goddess
Juratė, who lived in an amber palace at the bottom
of the sea. Angry that a mortal had dared to touch a
goddess, the god Perkūnas sent lightning to destroy
the palace and drown Kastytis. It is believed that pieces
of the palace have been washing up on the shore ever
since. The well-known story was first recorded in
writing by Liudvikas Adomas Jucevičius in 1842, and
the tale has even been adapted into a rock opera. Jūratė kaj Kastytis by Nijolė Ona Gaigalaitė
32 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
PÄRNU
Average monthly
21/70
° C/F
maximum temperature Ventspils
13/55
7/45 9/48
4/39
0/32
-3/27 Average monthly
minimum temperature WESTERN
-9/16 Rīga
6 10 3 1
LATVIA
hrs hrs hrs hr Average daily hours of
Jelgava
sunshine Liepāja
36 72 60 36
mm mm mm mm
Average monthly
month Apr Jul Oct Jan rainfall
WESTERN Šiauliai
LIEPĀJA Klaipėda LITHUANIA
20/68
° C/F 14/57
11/52
8/47 6/43
2/36
-1/30
-5/23
6 9 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr Kaunas
37 66 77 53
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
36 74 80 50 41 85 60 34 42 80 45 39
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
T H E C L I M AT E O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 33
TALLINN
Tallinn 21/70
° C/F
12/54 9/48
8/46
4/39
0/32
-2/28
EASTERN
ESTONIA -8/18
6 10 2 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
Tartu
36 78 73 48
Viljandi
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
TARTU
22/72
° C/F
11/52
9/48 9/48
3/37
0/32
-4/25
EASTERN
-11/12
LATVIA
8 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
33 71 52 29
Jēkabpils mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Daugavpils
DAUGAVPILS
23/73
° C/F
10/50 12/54 10/50
1/34 3/37
CENTRAL -4/25
LITHUANIA
-10/14
6 8 3 1
0 km 50
hrs hrs hrs hr
0 miles 50
42 79 52 37
Vilnius mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
VILNIUS
22/72
° C/F
11/52 12/54 10/50
2/36 3/38
-4/25
-9/16
6 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
46 78 53 41
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
THE HISTORY OF
ESTONIA, LATVIA
AND LITHUANIA
The history of the Baltic region begins in 3000 BC with the arrival of the early Baltic
tribes, the ancestors of today’s Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians. Despite
a shared experience of conquest, foreign occupation and struggles for
independence, the three countries have preserved their distinct cultural
identities, emerging in 1991 as sovereign states.
Archaeological evidence suggests that the coast, the Prussians beyond the Nemunas
Baltic region was inhabited as early as river, the Zemgalians in central Latvia and
10,000 BC, at the end of the Ice Age. The the Selonians and Latgalians further east.
earliest occupied site, at Kernavė in For several centuries, the Balts remained
Lithuania, dates back to 9000 BC. These firmly rural, living off the land. Until the early
Stone Age people used bows, arrows and 1200s, there were similar but unrelated
spears for hunting and fishing. It was not settlements all along the coast, from what is
until 3000 BC, however, that the ancestors now Klaipėda as far as St Petersburg. There
of the current inhabitants began to arrive. are very few records of life at that time as
Surviving by hunting and fishing, the the local communities used wood rather
Finno-Ugrians – the future Finns and than stone for all their fortifications and
Estonians – were among the first to drift housing. Archaeological research has shown
across Europe from Asia. They were pushed that there were extensive trading networks
back by the Indo-European groups that across the sea from this area to Sweden and
arrived in 2000 BC. The Indo-Europeans, Germany and inland towards Russia. The
who introduced crop cultivation and little written material from that time talks
animal rearing to the traditional modes about the Balts as good boat-builders and
of subsistence, mingled with the existing dreaded pirates.
groups, eventually forming the races At a time when the rest of Europe had
now known collectively as the Balts. embraced Christianity, the Balts staunchly
During the first centuries AD, distinctive practised paganism. After haphazard
regional tribes began to form. These attempts by small groups of Western
were the Samogitians (Lowlanders) and European missionaries to convert the area
Aukštaitijans (Highlanders) in western and to Christianity failed, the first Baltic crusade
eastern Lithuania, the Curonians along the was sanctioned by Pope Innocent III in 1198.
Detail from Jan Matejko’s Battle of Grünwald (1878) showing Grand Duke Vytautas defeating the Teutonic Knights in 1410
36 I N T R O D U C I N G E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A
1520
Lutheranism
established in 1572 First reference 1642–82 Courland flourishes
Estonia, and a to a synagogue 1600–29 Polish- under Duke Jakob Kettler
year later in Latvia in Vilnius Swedish War
1767 Completion of
Latvia’s Rundāle 1795 Lithuania absorbed
Palace under into the Russian Empire
Catherine the Great
Catherine the Great
(1729–96)
T H E H I S TO R Y O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 39
A turn-of-the-19th-century postcard impression of Rīga, one of Eastern Europe’s most vibrant cities
Jewish History
The history of Jewish settlement in the Baltic region
began in the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas
invited merchants and craftsmen into the Grand Duchy of
Lithuania. Estonia only ever had a small Jewish population,
while Jews arrived in Latvia in the 15th century, but were
only allowed to settle in Rīga much later. During World War
II, almost all Jews who did not flee were killed. Although
some returned, the Jewish communities today are
dwindling, partly due to emigration to Israel.
Jewish Vilna’s itinerant clothes-sellers,
photographed in 1915
Rīga’s Great Choral Synagogue was built in 1869 for Children celebrating Purim were photo-
the city’s Jews, who thrived after the laws restricting graphed in 1933 in Vilnius. Purim, a joyful
Jewish residence were lifted in 1840. The site of a festival in the Jewish calendar, is still
Jewish massacre executed by the Nazis in 1941, the celebrated by the Jewish community
synagogue no longer exists. in the Baltic region today.
T H E H I S TO R Y O F E S TO N I A , L AT V I A A N D L I T H UA N I A 41
1918 The three Baltic States 1939 Molotov- 1941 German occupation of 1956 Baltic deportees
declare independence Ribbentrop Pact signed the Baltics begins allowed back
1922 Russia becomes between the USSR 1945 Soviet from Siberia
Soviet Union (USSR) and Germany reoccupation
A chain of people joining hands to form the “Baltic Way” across the three Baltic States
themselves “liberators”, slowly reconquered “Baltic Way”, was formed across the three
most of the Baltic region during the autumn Baltic States to draw the world’s attention
of 1944, as they drove the Germans west- to their shared history of suffering.
wards. In anticipation of their return, many
locals fled to Sweden or Germany. Others Independence Returns
who stayed joined the partisans based in the Perestroika (reform) and glasnost (openness),
countryside. Known as the Forest Brothers, the two buzzwords of Mikhail Gorbachev’s
they were a very effective guerrilla force until regime (1985–91), had a dramatic effect in the
the mid-1950s, disrupting the Soviet Baltic region. Independence could be dis-
administration throughout the region. cussed openly and national flags reappeared.
All the links with the outside world were By 1990, independence for Estonia, Latvia
broken, including trading routes. and Lithuania could be predicted, but only in
Aware that it had only minimal popular the long term. However, its sudden arrival on
support, the Soviet government knew that 21 August 1991, when an attempted coup in
the incorporation of the Baltic States could Moscow against Gorbachev failed, was unex-
only be achieved and maintained pected. During a 48-hour period of
with brute force. In each country, total uncertainty, the three Baltic
the Russian military occupied large States took the opportunity to declare
parts to which access was strictly independence. Russia under Boris
controlled and all the paperwork Yeltsin did likewise, dissolving the
needed was only in Russian. The USSR. Suddenly, what had been
Russification policies followed by provincial backwaters became serious
the Tsars were enforced once again Soviet President European countries, with their own
in order to stamp out the national Mikhail Gorbachev airlines, currencies and embassies and,
identities of Estonia, Latvia and above all, recognition on a worldwide
Lithuania. They imposed such uniformity that basis. In 2004, the three Baltic States joined
it became challenging for an outsider to the EU and NATO (North Atlantic Treaty
distinguish one Baltic State from the other. Organization), and by 2015, all had adopted
In 1989, a human chain, referred to as the the EU’s common currency, the euro.
Maardu
Tallinn TALLINN
(see pp58–87)
Paldiski
Keila
0 km 30
0 miles 30 Kohila
Rapla
Paide
Märjamaa
Kärdla Haapsalu
Türi
Hiiumaa WESTERN ESTONIA
Island (see pp88–105)
Käina
Lihula Vändra
Muhu
Island
Pärnu Sindi
Saaremaa
Island
Kuressaare Kilingi-
Kihnu Nõmme
Island
Gulf of Rīga
Kuressaare
(see p98)
Jõhvi
Rakvere
Tapa
Jögeva
Põltsamaa
Põlva
Karksi-Nuia
Võru
Vastseliina
Valga
A PORTRAIT OF ESTONIA
Now presenting a heady mix of medieval heritage and technological advance-
ment, Estonia rebuilt itself in the post-Soviet era, adapting to the demands of
the modern world while preserving a distinct cultural identity. With its rich
historic architecture, natural landscapes and dynamic culture, the country makes
a significant impression on the ever-growing number of visitors that it attracts.
Political Life
Estonia underwent a major
political transition in the 1990s,
adopting a parliamentary
democracy which introduced
neo-liberal economic and
political policies.
In the early years of
Participants awaiting their turn at the Estonian Song and Dance Festival independence, there was a
lingering cynicism towards
links through the Finno-Ugric language politics, as many former Communist Party
family. A sizeable Russian-speaking leaders continued to hold high offices,
minority remained in Estonia after the and corruption was a regular part of the
Soviet withdrawal, leading to some dip- political process. This changed in 2000, as
lomatic skirmishes with Russia over the the nation prepared to join the European
years. Today, there are fewer instances of Union and decisions from Brussels now
conflict between Russians and Estonians. have just as much effect as local ones.
Estonians take great pride in their Estonia is governed by a coalition of
heritage. The country’s medieval past is parties. The major parties are the centre-
visible not only in some of its architecture, right Reform Party and the populist
but also in festivals that have their roots in Centre Party, while several smaller parties
that era. Folk culture is central to national often hold the balance of power.
identity, as Estonians were
predominantly reduced to serfdom,
with no right to own land or
property, until the country’s first
spell of independence in 1918. The
Estonian Song and Dance Festival,
which was first held in 1869 and has
since taken place every five years,
remains a significant icon for the
nation, rousing affirmation of
Estonian identity.
Religion does not play a
particularly large part in Estonian Parliamentary session in progress
A PORTRAIT OF ESTONIA 51
Tallinn’s new modern city centre, with the Radisson Blu Hotel (left) and SEB bank buildings (right)
Economy Tourism
Until about 2007, Estonia had a large Tourism has been instrumental in
growth in GDP and low unemployment. transforming Estonia from a drab post-
Its capital, Tallinn, underwent a transition Soviet state into a thriving nation, and the
with the economic boom, with office private sector has been quick to adapt and
towers shooting up and expensive new respond to the business opportunities that
shops and restaurants enjoying good have opened up. Tallinn was inevitably the
trade. The property market boomed, as first part of the country to benefit, but
did the market for new cars, paid for tourism has stimulated a social renaissance
mostly on credit borrowed from in parts of the country that had languished
Swedish banks. in poverty for many years, and towns
This changed with the global financial throughout the country have seen a steady
crisis, which wiped out the growth rate increase in tourism-related investment.
and pushed unemployment beyond Many Estonians fly south for their holidays,
15 per cent. The government cut its although domestic tourism is strong and
spending as it attempted to meet the weekend spa breaks are popular.
economic criteria necessary to
enter the Eurozone, and in July
2010 the EU gave approval for the
adoption of the euro in Estonia
with effect from January 2011.
Income levels are still below
the EU average, although
consumer prices are relatively
similar to those in the richer
western EU countries. The
main industries are real estate,
manufacturing, retail, transport
and communications. There is
also a large focus on information
technology, a sector that has been
breeding start-ups. Tourists enjoying Tallinn’s roof-top panorama from Toompea Hill
52 INTRODUCING ESTONIA
ESTONIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
Estonians celebrate a host of seasonal also the time when a series of concerts
festivals through the year. These encompass are held throughout the country, and
everything from religion, folk culture and when the Folklore Baltica Festival (see p136),
handicrafts to art, music, dance and theatre, which showcases the region’s distinct
mak ing the festival calendar both colourful traditional culture, takes place. In addition
and remarkable. Much of the festive frenzy to the annual festivals, a number of
occurs in the summer, peak ing with the commemorative days are observed
Midsummer’s Eve celebrations. Summer is throughout Estonia.
Spring
As is to be expected in a
country so attuned to the
seasons, spring is a joyful time
marked by a lively range of
long-established festivals.
March
Tallinn Music Week (late Mar),
Tallinn. An interesting line-up
of more than 200 acts of differ-
ent music genres and events
in art, design, food and drink.
April
Estonian Music Days (early
Apr). Contemporary Estonian Horse-riders in medieval costumes, celebrating Tallinn Old Town Days
classical music is showcased in
Tallinn and other cities. early May). During this festival, resplendent summers with an
International Choir Festival (one Tartu’s students hold bizarre abundance of festivals to
week, late Apr), Tallinn. As well as concerts, shows and parties welcome in the new season.
a choral contest, concerts are open to everybody.
staged at churches around Tallinn. June
Jazzkaar (late Apr). This big jazz May Midsummer’s Eve (Jaanipäev)
festival held throughout Spring Farm Days (mid-May), (23 Jun). This summer
Estonia includes local and Tallinn. The Estonian Open-Air celebration is marked by
international names. Museum celebrates the a night of joyous drinking,
Tartu Student Days (late Apr– traditional spring farming eating and age-old rituals
tasks, such as growing crops around a bonfire.
and rearing livestock. Pärnu Hanseatic Days (late Jun).
Tallinn Literature Festival This two-day festival includes
(late May), Tallinn. Local and a procession, a crafts fair and a
international authors gather in knights’ tournament.
the Old Town. Juu Jääb Muhu Music
Tallinn Old Town Days (late Festival (late Jun), Muhu
May–early Jun). Tallinn’s Island. A small and enjoyable
medieval past is celebrated with open-air festival of local and
re-enactments of old traditions international music, tending
like jousting. The streets are towards jazz and world music.
filled with market stalls and
people in costume. July
Haapsalu Early Music Festival
(early Jul). Set in the pretty
Summer surroundings of Haapsalu
After the long months of wintry Castle, this is a celebration of
Saxophonist playing at a concert gloom and darkness, Estonians early classical music.
during Jazzkaar make the best of their short but Õllesummer Festival (early
ESTONIA THROUGH THE YEAR 53
September January
Credo International Festival Pärnu Contemporary Music
of Orthodox Sacred Music Days (mid-Jan). An outstanding
(early–late Sep), Tallinn. festival of classical music
Orthodox sacred music which also features lectures,
concerts held in churches workshops and theatre
and concert halls. performances.
Matsalu Nature Film
Festival (late Sep). An unusual
Audience watching performers on stage, festival screening the works
Viljandi Folk Festival of various natural history
film-makers.
Jul), Tallinn. This huge beer
festival also features major November
concerts, from jazz to rock, as Black Nights Film Festival
well as sideshows. (mid–late Nov), Tallinn.
Old Town Medieval Market A celebration of some of
(early Jul), Tallinn. An exciting the best independent and
series of concerts, workshops world cinema films, most
and costumed performances, of which are screened with
as well as traditional English subtitles. Tickets
market stalls. can be purchased from
Viljandi Folk Festival (late Jul). Piletilevi outlets. The festival
Folk music ensembles from also runs smaller events in
all over Estonia perform in the other towns.
castle grounds. Skiiers participating in the popular Tartu
Ski Marathon
August Winter
Birgitta Festival (mid-Aug), Despite long and bitterly cold February
Tallinn. Operas, concerts and spells, winter also holds Baroque Music Festival (early–
recitals are held in the the promise of a wonderful mid-Feb), Tallinn. A festival
atmospheric ruins of Pirita snow-blanketed landscape and favourite offering a series of
Convent. Food is served on a season of festivity. Baroque music concerts in
the summer terrace. various venues around the
SAAL Biennial (late Aug), December Old Town.
Tallinn. A biennial celebration Christmas Jazz Festival Tartu Ski Marathon (mid–late
of the best in contemporary (early Dec). A series of jazz Feb). This hugely popular
dance, including guest concerts held in Tallinn and ski-fest features events and
performances by famous several other towns in the run-up competitions, but the high-
international troupes. to Christmas. light is the 63-km (39-mile)
ski marathon.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Independence Day (24 Feb)
Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
May Day (1 May)
Võidupüha Victory Day
(23 Jun)
St John’s Day (24 Jun)
Restoration of
Independence (20 Aug)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
A brightly illuminated Christmas tree in the Old Town Christmas Market, Tallinn
54 INTRODUCING ESTONIA
THE HISTORY OF
ESTONIA
Historical references to Estonia date from the early 13th century, when the German
crusading knights arrived, introducing a new social order in which the Germans
dominated for several centuries. A brief but benevolent period of Swedish rule in the
17th century was followed by Russian and German oppression, which continued
with a short-lived inter-war independence. Estonia became a republic only in 1991.
The German crusading order, the their land given away to the Knights
Brotherhood of the Sword, started and bishops. The feudal system, in
a bitter struggle for control of which the Germans owned
Estonia that lasted from 1208, manor estates and the locals
when they established their hold were obliged to work as serfs,
over Otepää, until 1211. The Danes, survived until the 19th century.
too, were contending for control. Fragment of a seal of Danish Tallinn was acquired again by the
In 1206, they tried in vain to sub- King Valdemar II Germans in 1346, when large-
jugate Saaremaa, the country’s largest and scale protests against feudal exactions forced
most prosperous island. Denmark’s King the Danes to relinquish their possessions in
Valdemar II (r.1202–41) occupied Tallinn in Estonia. During this time, many guilds and
1219, but his attempts to expand Danish merchants’ associations emerged, and towns
territory further were unsuccessful. such as Tallinn, Tartu, Viljandi and Pärnu
thrived as members of the Hanseatic League.
German Conquest Tallinn, particularly, prospered as one of
In 1227, the whole of Estonia had been Northern Europe’s largest towns.
conquered. In 1237, the Brotherhood of the
Sword was absorbed into another crusading
order, the Teutonic Knights, who controlled
Tallinn until 1238, when it was returned to
the Danes. The Knights took over a stone
castle built by the Danes and rebuilt it as the
Toompea Castle the same year. The found-
ations for a new social order were laid, with
the Germans serving as the nobility, as well
as merchants and craftsmen. The Estonians
were forcibly converted to Christianity and An impression of Tallinn’s Toompea Castle in 1227
1885 Russification of
1710 Treaty of Nystadt brings 1872 The first the Baltics begins
Estonia into the Tsarist Empire strike organized
1632 Opening of 1918 Declaration of
Tartu University by by the women Estonian indep-
Swedish Lutherans of Narva endence signed
Independence
The years 1992 and 1993 turned out
to be a challenging time for Estonia.
The immediate reintroduction of the
kroon as the national currency wiped
out savings accumulated in Soviet
roubles and inflation was not
immediately curtailed. Prime Minister
Mart Laar, who served his first term
from 1992 to 1994, coined the phrase
“the little country that can” and it
Olympic torch inaugurating the yachting events held in 1980, Tallinn did, very quickly. Many suffered
temporarily, as factories closed and
foreign newspapers, direct-dial international collective farms were abandoned, but few
phone calls and a range of consumer suffered long-term as tourism, Finnish
goods not seen in Tallinn since 1940 were assembly plants and international call
introduced. After the Games, all these quickly centres quickly absorbed any spare labour.
disappeared, but the memory of them did Returning to power in 1999, Laar was able
not; frustration with the USSR turned in the to steer the country out of the financial
1980s to total disillusionment as Finnish TV crisis that stemmed from the collapse of
showed the different lifestyle Russia’s economy in 1998.
being enjoyed just 50 km From 2000 onwards, Estonia
(31 miles) from Tallinn. enjoyed record growth and
When Mikhail Gorbachev increased prosperity. Many
came to power in 1985 as public works projects were built
General Secretary of the with European Union funds and
Communist Party of the Soviet foreign banks gave generous
Union, Estonians took private loans. This ended with
advantage of his liberal policies the global financial crisis in 2008,
to revitalize the cultural scene and although Estonia was not as
and to restructure factories badly affected as other Baltic
and small businesses. Plans to Former Estonian prime minister nations, the economy slowed
reform the economy were Mart Laar considerably. In July 2010,
made, the key element of which was the Estonia was given approval to enter the
introduction of a stable currency. At the Eurozone. In January 2011 the euro
time of the collapse of the USSR in 1991, replaced the kroon as legal tender.
Estonians were better prepared, at least in Relations with Russia have improved
theory, for a capitalist economy than were markedly, although diplomatic, cultural
any of the other Soviet republics. and even trade hiccups still occur.
TALLINN
In a little over 20 years, the Estonian capital has grown into
a dynamic, chic and exciting city. An architectural wonder,
Tallinn has some stunning examples of modern architecture
that reflect the newfound confidence of its people. In
addition to restoring the medieval architecture of its Old
Town, the city has experienced a major construction boom.
An overview of Tallinn from Toompea Hill Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
shows how the city has made the best since 1991, is a living monument to this
of its extraordinary historic foundations. golden period of Tallinn’s history. Tallinn
Tallinn first appeared on the Western was relatively stagnant during the Tsarist
European map in 1154. The city came Russian period, which began in 1710
to be known as Tallinn after the Danes under the rule of Peter the Great. For
conquered it in 1219 and built a most of the 19th century, it was little
stronghold on Toompea Hill. “Tallinn” is more than a summer resort for wealthy
an abbreviation of the Estonian name Russians. However, the introduction of
Taani Linnus, meaning “Danish the Tallinn–St Petersburg railway in 1870
stronghold”. However, Tallinn officially restored the city’s former glory as a
bore the Teutonic name of Reval until major trading centre. During the
Estonia’s first period of independence Soviet occupation a vast influx of
in 1918. With the arrival of German predominantly Russian-speaking
merchants in 1230, the city was divided workers swelled Tallinn’s population.
into the Upper Town (Toompea) and Since independence in 1991,
the Lower Town. improved air and sea transport links with
In 1346, the Danish king sold Tallinn to Western Europe has made Tallinn easily
Germany. The city flourished in the 14th accessible. The city has forged close ties
and 15th centuries, when it was one of with neighbouring Finland and the
the leading members of the powerful Tallinn–Helsinki ferry line is among
Hanseatic League. The brilliantly restored the busiest in the world.
Exploring Tallinn
The vast majority of sights in Tallinn are
concentrated in and around Town Hall Square
and Toompea, in the medieval Old Town.
Relatively easy to explore on foot, the winding
cobbled streets are dotted with elegant back
alleys, courtyards and spired churches, as well
as fascinating museums that present the
city’s historic and cultural traditions. There
are also many notable buildings around the
fringes of the Old Town, all within easy walking
distance. On the eastern section of the city wall, The imposing towers of Viru Gate, one of
Viru Gate serves as one of the main access the best-known landmarks in Tallinn
points into the Old Town. I
UM
ASI
TO RNI DE
GUMNA
VÄLJAK
S U UR- K LOO ST R I
Sights at a Glance
N U N N E
Churches and Monasteries
K IR
IK U P ÕI K
HTU
VO
6 Niguliste Church pp68–9 ÜÜ OR
HU
-R IM
OM EH
RA
0 Dominican Monastery TO
E
PIIS
K KIRIKU
LG
OP
U
EV
H
of Our Lord KO
KK
RI
A
NK
DU
PI
K
TOO M-KOOLI
PLATS
TA
G
Museums IKK
JAL
KE
P
HI
RÜÜT
5 Museum of Estonian
Photography LOSSI
LI
PLATS
J U
H A R
K U N IN G A
q Tallinn City Museum G A RD EN
e Estonian Museum of Applied
P L AT S
F A L G I T E E
Art and Design K OM
AN
DA
ND RÜÜTLI
a Museum of Occupations I T
E E
f Adamson-Eric Museum
VABADUS E
VÄL JAK
2 Town Hall Pharmacy
PEA
8 Viru Gate
9 St Catherine’s Passageway
TEE
w House of Blackheads IES
PU
R LI
y Three Sisters K AA
u Fat Margaret Tower
i Toompea Castle
s Knights’ House
d Kiek-in-de-Kök
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp314–16
TA L L I N N 61
Ferry Terminal
500 m (550 yards) 0 metres 200
0 yards 200
E
TE
ÄE
I
LA
AM Key
NN
RA
K
P I K
Place of interest
I
M
TO LLI
U
RI
Pedestrian street
O
TO
RA
BO
I
L A
LA
I OL
EV
UM
SU
IST
RI E
U
O
U U S
R
TO PA
T
RA
Ü
O GA
K
AB RI
I
A V
ID A
IM
I
G
A U
Ä
IM
V
LE
O
K
I K
P
I
L A
NE
VE
MU
VAI
HA
U U S
PÜ
NE
VE
ND
GI
K AT
A R II
RAEKOJA NA
K Ä IK
PLATS
Getting Around
RA
EKO
Walking is the best way to explore Tallinn’s Old Town.
JA
VIRU However, public transport is required to see some
RG A
HE
RIVA
GA
K UNIN Town, as well as Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanical
Gardens, which are all situated to the northeast of
ÜÜ
A
N
U
I
L L
V
Ä network of buses, trolleybuses and trams. Nearly all
V A
IK
E-
KA buses and trolleybuses leave from Vabaduse Square
R
V
A
NA
-P
by the Old Town. Tallinn has transport links with all
OS
TI major towns and cities in Estonia.
E
I VAH
M ÜÜR
E
E
T
N
A
A
USE VÄ
LJAK M
VABAD
U
N
R
PÄ
Lennart Meri
Tallinn Airport
4 km (2.5 miles)
Street-by-Street: Around
Town Hall Square
In the heart of the Old Town, the magnificent Town
Hall Square has, for centuries, served as a marketplace.
Gently sloping, the cobblestoned square is surrounded by
a ring of elegantly designed medieval buildings. The early
14th-century Town Hall is Northern Europe’s only surviving
late Gothic town hall. A meeting point for locals and visitors, Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp86–7
the square captures the essence of the Old Town. In summer,
it is filled with the tables of open-air cafés and restaurants.
House of
Blackheads
MU
merchants’ house, this
PÜHAVAI
museum presents Tallinn’s
history through a variety
of fascinating exhibits
and artifacts.
PI
KK
KIN GA
EHE
RIM
2. Town Hall Pharmacy V
OO
Worth a visit just for the impressive interior, this
long-running pharmacy also has a charming little
museum displaying old curiosities.
I
DUN KR
Key
Suggested route
0 Dominican Monastery
Among Tallinn’s oldest buildings, this monastery complex also
includes an atmospheric museum which has some beautiful
stone carvings.
Viru Street
One of the most famous streets in the
Old Town, Viru Street is packed with a
variety of restaurants, bars, cafés and shops.
M
Ü
Ü
RI
VA
H
E
V
E
N
E
SA
IR
UN
V
1. Town Hall
Taking pride of place in Town Hall
Square, this imposing Gothic building
5 The Museum with an octagonal tower has been the
of Estonian focus of civic life since the Middle Ages.
Photography has
SUUR K A an extensive
RJA
collection housed
A
in two buildings.
NG
NI
KU
I
ST
H
PO
A
TE
NA
R
JU
VA
IS
UL
6 Niguliste Church
IG
Medieval Architecture
Tallinn’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval architecture in
Northern Europe. With its winding cobblestoned streets and rows of elegantly gabled
façades, the Old Town retains the true character of a medieval town centre. The
labyrinthine street structure developed in relation to the power seat of Toompea above
and the harbour below, with the all-important Town Hall Square and marketplace at
the heart of it. Although Tallinn flourished as a centre of trade in medieval times, it was
relatively quiet in the 19th century, which is probably why the Old Town was spared from
demolition. Tallinn’s medieval fortifications are also very well preserved, with some
2 km (1 mile) of the town wall and half of the original 46 towers still intact.
A model of a medieval
merchant’s house can
be seen at the Tallinn
City Museum (see p67),
a 14th-century
building. The upper
storey was used to store
merchandise, and
guests were entertained
on the first floor.
Stone towers of the Viru Gate, one of the most iconic sights in Tallinn
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp314–16
TA L L I N N 67
6 Niguliste Church
Niguliste kirik
Dedicated to St Nicholas, Niguliste Church was originally built
in the 13th century, although nearly all that remains today is
from the 15th century. Most of Tallinn’s medieval artworks
were destroyed in the Reformation riots of 1524. However,
according to legend, Niguliste Church escaped being
ransacked due to the laudable efforts of the church warden,
who sealed the door with melted lead. Today, Tallinn’s most
impressive collection of medieval religious artworks are
housed here. The building has served as a museum ever since
it was extensively rebuilt during Soviet times after being
damaged by Soviet air raids in World War II. The church
regularly holds organ and choral concerts. Exterior of the Niguliste Church, one of
Tallinn’s medieval treasures
Altar Triptych of
St Mary and
the Brotherhood
of Blackheads
The main panel
shows St George
and St Maurice
standing beside
the Madonna, while
St Francis and
St Gertrude stand
in the wings.
KEY
Stone Carving
A stone skull and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
crossbones can be seen
at the entrance to the Practical Information
chapel, near the church’s Niguliste 3. Map 1 C3.
main door. Stone Tel 631 4330. Open May–Sep:
carving, a vital element 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
in Estonian architecture, 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & tickets
was largely done in available until 4:30pm (call 644
dolomite and sandstone. 9903). 8 book in advance; extra
charges for guided tour (up to 35
people) in a foreign language.
Silver Chamber: Open 10am–5pm
Wed–Sun. 8 extra charges (up
to 10 people). Organ Music: Sat &
Sun at 4pm for 30 mins.
r Church of the
Transfiguration of
Our Lord
Issandamuutmise kirik
Suur-Kloostri 14–1. Map 1 C2. Tel 565
1090. @ 3. v 1, 2. Open 9am–2pm
Sun. ^ 510am Sun.
∑ teelistekirikud.ekn.ee
Street-by-Street: Toompea
Set on Toompea Hill, some 50 m (164 ft) above sea level,
Toompea lies southwest of the Old Town. It dates back to the
13th century, when the Danes erected a stone castle on the site.
The hill has changed hands many times over the centuries, but
still remains enclosed in the impressive limestone fortifications
built during the Livonian Wars (1558–83). The eclectic complex
of Toompea Castle now houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp86–7
Parliament, in Castle Square. The centre of the square is
dominated by the imposing Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
Toompea Hill offers a spectacular view of the Old Town and
makes an ideal starting point for a tour of Tallinn.
LI
O
O
K
M
i. Toompea Castle O
O
This hilltop castle compound comprises T
several architectural styles, from
medieval stone towers to a vibrant
pink Baroque façade.
TS
A
L O
K
P
S
II
I
P
S
S
LO
PI
K
K
JA
KO
MA
ND
AN
Kiek-in-de-
Kök Museum
entrance
d. Kiek-in-de-Kök
The superbly preserved medieval
cannon tower now houses a large
museum on Tallinn’s history.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp314–16
TA L L I N N 73
p Cathedral of
St Mary the Virgin
Originally built as a
wooden church by
the Danes in 1240,
St Mary’s is the oldest
church in mainland
Estonia. Most of its
austere Gothic
exterior, however,
dates from the
14th century.
Key
Suggested route
KI
RI
KU
PL
AT
I
P
O
KO
HTU
AL
G
0 metre 100
0 yards 100
0 Knights’ House
The Neo-Renaissance building
was built in 1848 to serve as the
headquarters of the Knighthood,
the then local aristocracy. The
well-preserved interior is a blend
of various styles.
74 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
p Cathedral of
St Mary the Virgin
Toomkirik
Toomkooli 6. Map 1 B2. Tel 644 4140.
v 3, 4. Open Jun–Aug: 9am–5pm
daily; Sep–May: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
5 5pm Wed, noon Sat, 11am Sun.
∑ eelk.ee/tallinna.toom
aMuseum of
Occupations
Okupatsioonide muuseum
Exterior of the 19th-century Knights’ House, now a venue for concerts
Toompea 8. Map 1 B3. Tel 668 0250.
v 3, 4. Open 10am–6pm daily. &
8 call in advance. 7 - = which occasionally hosted and now houses a five-floor
∑ okupatsioon.ee concerts, is currently closed to museum devoted to Tallinn’s
the public. history. The highlights include
This comprehensive museum medieval artillery and a
provides a look at life in Estonia plague doctor’s protective
under both the Nazi and Soviet d Kiek-in-de-Kök uniform.
occupations. The fascinating Komandandi 2. Map 1 B3. Tel 644
exhibits include examples 6686. v 3, 4. Open Mar–Oct:
of bureaucratic paperwork, f Adamson-Eric
10:30am– 6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:
gut-wrenching accounts 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 call Museum
of mass deportation and 644 6686 for a guided group tour of Lühike jalg 3. Map 1 C3. Tel 644 5838.
execution, as well as posterart secret tunnels under the bastion. = v 3, 4. Open May–Sep: 11am–6pm
propaganda, which was an ∑ linnamuuseum.ee Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 11am–6pm Wed–
essential weapon for the Sun. & 8 group tours of 10–35; call
occupying forces. One of the strongest cannon in advance. ^ allowed only without
The open-space museum towers in 16th-century the flash. = ∑ adamson-eric.ee
remembers the countless Northern Europe, Kiek-in-de-
victims of the occupations, Kök was built in 1475 as Located in a medieval house
and its symbolic location Toompea’s main bastion. on a narrow stairway con-
at the foot of Toompea adds The tower stands 38 m necting the Old Town
a certain poignancy. It was (125 ft) tall and its with Toompea, the
partly founded by Kistler-Ritso, walls are 4 m (13 ft) Adamson-Eric
an Estonian World War II thick. The curious Museum is a branch
refugee to the United States. Low German name of the Art Museum
He donated 2 million dollars means “to peek into of Estonia.
to the museum, the largest the kitchen”, Adamson-Eric (1902–
private donation in suggesting that 68) is one of the key
Estonian history. soldiers had a good Painted porcelain plate, figures of 20th-century
vantage point over Adamson-Eric Museum Estonian art. His
the enemy. Some, idiosyncratic and
s Knights’ House however, believe that they diverse body of work spanned
Rüütelkonna hoone literally peeked into people’s several decades and influenced
kitchens. The tower fell into countless artists after him.
Kiriku plats 1. Map 1 B2. v 3, 4.
disuse in the mid-18th century The Tartu-born artist was
Built in 1848, the Knights’ primarily a painter, but also
House originally served as a worked with ceramics, metal
meeting place for the knight- forms, jewellery and leather,
hood, an influential segment among other media. Although
of the Toompea gentry. It was he held several prominent
home to the Foreign Ministry positions in various Soviet art
during the first independent committees during the latter part
republic, which lasted from of his life, he was thrown out of
1920 to 1940. During Soviet the Communist Party in 1949 and
times, the building housed the forced into factory work for four
Estonian National Library. years. After suffering a stroke in
It temporarily accommodated 1955 and losing the use of his
the main collection of the right hand, he taught himself
Art Museum of Estonia before to paint using his left hand.
it moved to its new permanent The collection on display was
home in the Kumu Art Museum Bitter Death, a cannon replica displayed in donated to the Art Museum of
(see p80). The building, Kiek-in-de-Kök Estonia by the artist’s widow.
76 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
SO
RI
Tallinn
O
occupation, the theatre’s name
PI
NA RVA MAA N
was changed to the Tallinn
T EE T EE
ÄE
AM Drama Theatre, in an effort to
NN
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RA AH U KR I
TR TU E remove nationalist affinities asso-
K
E
I NTE
P IK
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MAA M
VA
JÕE
NAR
SN
A
ciated with it. However, in 1989 it
LA
J V
VIR U
E reverted to its original name.
U
TE
IL
HARJ
NA
MSI
0 km 5
PR
0 miles 5
RN
KE
LA I A
L I I VA NT A
LI The productions are usually in
Baltic
Sea
Estonian, with rare exceptions
during theatre festivals.
V EE
N TEE
RENN
MAA
E
NU
E
T
PÄR
A
AN
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Lennart
0 metres 800 Meri Tallinn
V
Lake Airport
R
Ülemiste
JÄ
0 yards 800
8 Maarjamäe Palace
t Estonian Open-Air Museum
Key
Grand entrance of the Estonian
Historic Buildings Drama Theatre
Central Talinn
3 Rotermanni Quarter and Salt
Motorway
Storage Warehouse 2 Estonian National
Main road
6 Russalka Memorial Opera
Minor road
9 Soviet War Memorial Rahvusooper Estonia
0 Pirita Convent
Estonia pst 4. Tel 683 1215. @ 5, 36,
q TV Tower
40. v 3, 4. Open 11am–7pm daily
Sights at a Glance Parks and Gardens (box office). & 7 ^ -
∑ opera.ee
5 Kadriorg Park pp78–81
Theatres, Concert Halls
w Tallinn Botanical Gardens The imperious bulk of the
and Museums
Estonian National Opera
1 Estonian Drama Theatre Islands and Suburbs
dominates the view along the
2 Estonian National Opera e Lasnamäe stretch of Estonia Avenue that
4 Energy Centre r Nõmme skirts the eastern edge of the
7 Song Festival Grounds y Aegna Island Old Town. The sprawling building
For keys to symbols see back flap
TA L L I N N 77
5 Kadriorg Park
Kadriorg Park is one of Tallinn’s most interesting features
outside the Old Town. It centres on the magnificent
18th-century Baroque palace built as a summer residence
for Peter the Great and boasts a wealth of small museums,
historic monuments and art galleries. The park stretches for
1.5 km (1 mile) from its southwest corner to the northeast.
It is a popular and picturesque place for a leisurely stroll.
The elegant and affluent residential streets near the south
entrance are also well worth a look and include museums
dedicated to Eduard Vilde and Anton Hansen Tammsaare, Statue of Friedrich Reinhold
Kreutzwald
two of Estonia’s most prominent 20th-century literary figures.
This grand statue honours
the writer of Kalevipoeg,
considered the founding work
of Estonian literature.
Swan Lake
The Swan Lake is one of the
park’s focal points, although its
elegant island pavilion is
mostly enjoyed by swans.
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
2 km (1 mile) E of the Old Town.
70-
Transport
@ 1a, 5, 8, 19, 34a, 35, 38.
v 1, 3.
. Kadriorg Palace
Peter the Great’s Baroque palace now houses the Estonian Russalka Memorial
Art Museum’s foreign collection. However, the museum’s This imposing
main exhibits are displayed at the Kumu Art Museum. monument (see p82)
commemorates the
sinking of the
Russalka near
Finland in 1893.
6 Russalka
Memorial
Near the junction of Pirita tee & Narva
mnt. @ 1a, 34, 38. 7
This imposing memorial was
erected in honour of the 177
soldiers who drowned when
the Russian ship Russalka, or
“Mermaid”, sank en route to
Finland in 1893. Designed by
the renowned Estonian sculptor
Amandus Adamson (1855–
1929), the monument was
erected in 1902. It features a
bronze angel standing on
tiptoe, holding aloft an
Orthodox cross. The pedestal on
which the angel stands is made
of roughly hewn blocks of
granite, evoking stormy sea Aerial view of the impressive shell-like Song Festival Bowl
conditions. The monument is
one of several locations around been a strong symbol for recreations of domestic
Tallinn which young couples Estonians ever since thousands interiors. The 1940s and 50s are
visit to be photographed on of people gathered here during represented by army uniforms,
their wedding day. the 1988 Song and Dance photographs and weapons.
Festival in a show of unity There is an original hut used by
against Soviet occupation. the Forest Brothers (see p122),
In summer, the venue hosts the legendary partisans who
concerts, as well as the Beer fought against the Soviet
Festival. The 42-m (138-ft) high occupation, and a replica of a
Light Tower beside the Song desk used by a Communist
Festival Bowl offers good views Party secretary.
of the Old Town. On weekday Visitors can go to the back of
evenings, the tower is used as the palace to see some of the
a climbing post. gigantic Soviet-era bronze
monuments lying there in an
8 Maarjamäe unceremonious heap.
Palace E Estonian History Museum
Pirita tee 56. Tel 622 8600. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
@ 5, 34, 38. Closed for renovations Research: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
until 2018. & 8 call in advance.
Angel with an Orthodox cross, standing ∑ ajaloomuuseum.ee
atop the Russalka Memorial An elegant Neo-Gothic summer
house, Maarjamäe Palace was
built in 1874 by the Russian
7 Song Festival Count Orlov-Davydov. The
Grounds building has since served
Lauluväljak as a consulate, a hotel and
restaurant, and a base for
Narva mnt 95. Tel 611 2102. @ 1a, 5, trainee pilots as well as the
8, 34a, 38 (to Lauluväljak); 19, 29, 35, Soviet army. However, today
44, 51, 60, 63 (to Lasnamägi). it houses another branch of
Open daily. 7 ∑ lauluvaljak.ee
the Estonian History Museum
The centrepiece of the Song (see also p64).
Festival Grounds is the Song The museum, inaugurated in
Festival Bowl, the large, shell-like 1987, picks up where its counter-
amphitheatre built in the 1960s. part in the Old Town leaves off,
During the four-yearly Estonian in the mid-19th century, to
Song and Dance Festival, the cover the political and social
stage holds up to 15,000 choral upheavals of the 20th century.
singers, with room for many The exhibits include historically Maarjamäe Palace, housing a branch of the
more on an extra platform. It has costumed mannequins and Estonian History Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp314–16
TA L L I N N 83
Catherine I (1684–1727)
Originally named Marta Skavronskaya, Catherine I was a
Lithuanian peasant’s daughter and is thought to have been
born in present-day Estonia. A beautiful girl, Marta joined the
household of Prince Aleksandr Menschikov, who introduced her
to Peter the Great in 1703. They became lovers soon after that.
In 1705, she converted to Russian Orthodoxy, whereupon she
changed her name to Catherine. The couple lived a modest
life in a two-room log cabin during the construction of
St Petersburg and were secretly married in 1707. In 1709,
Catherine gave birth to Elizabeth, who later ruled Russia from
1741 to 1762. In 1724, Catherine was officially declared co-ruler
Portrait of Catherine I, painted by of the Russian Empire with her husband. Kadriorg (see pp78–81),
Jean-Marc Nattier in 1717 or Catherine’s Valley, was named in her honour.
84 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
9Soviet War
Memorial
Maarjamäe
Pirita tee. @ 1a, 5, 8, 34a, 38. 7
4-km (2-mile) nature trail that buildings from all around the
goes through a lush range of country. The exhibits range
habitats, from dry meadows from the 18th to the
to pine forests. 20th centuries and give a
fascinating picture of how
rural architecture developed in
e Lasnamäe Estonia over the years. There
5 km (3 miles) NE of Tallinn.
are wooden windmills,
thatched barns, a village inn
A vast Soviet-era suburb and an 18th-century wooden
founded on a limestone plateau church alongside numerous
in 1977, Lasnamäe houses farmsteads and outbuildings.
almost a third of the city’s A variety of activities are
population. The industrial part offered, including nature trails
of the district is centred around and horse and carriage rides,
Peterburi Street. Seemingly while regular music and
endless rows of housing blocks theatre productions are held
are lined up beside Laagna Baron von Glehn Castle in lush here too. Annual highlights
Street, which is a smaller road surroundings, Nõmme include the Midsummer’s Eve
that passes through the celebrations (see p52) and the
so-called “Canyon”, a road an impressive sight. The castle is Autumn Fair.
blasted through limestone. only open for special events but
The ambitious plans for the the surrounding park, with
making of Lasnamäe were never some particularly eye-catching y Aegna Island
finished and several aborted statues, can be visited any time. Aegna saar
building projects that abruptly 14 km (9 miles) NE of Tallinn.
came to a halt when Estonia + Baron von Glehn Castle
g from Pirita Harbour.
broke away from the Soviet Vana-Mustamäe tee 48. Tel 652 5076.
Union, can still be seen. Open by appointment only. The tiny 3-sq-km (1-sq-mile)
Although there is little of island of Aegna is situated in
interest, the area as a whole is a the northeastern part of Tallinn
strangely impressive sight and t Estonian Open- Bay. It has pristine sandy
offers an intriguing glimpse of a Air Museum beaches and unspoiled nature,
side of the city that most visitors Eesti vabaõhumuuseum which may, however, be the
rarely see. target of future development.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. Tel 654
9100. @ 21, 21b. Open May–Sep: The few traces of human
10am–8pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am– activity that can be found are
r Nõmme 5pm daily. & 8 call in advance. almost all military. There was a
8 km (5 miles) S of Tallinn. £ from 7 - = ∑ evm.ee cannon battery here during
Tallinn. @ 14, 18, 33. Tsarist rule, and after being briefly
One of the few major sights used by the Estonian army
The beautiful residential district outside the city centre, the during the country’s first period
of Nõmme was developed as a Estonian Open-Air Museum is of independence, Aegna became
suburb after a railway station situated in the sprawling a closed Soviet military zone.
opened there in 1872. Soon after, grounds of the former Rocco The island is now governed by
wealthy Tallinners began building al Mare summer estate, with a Tallinn City Council and improved
elegant summer villas with stunning backdrop of Kopli Bay. ferry links have led to a steady
spacious gardens, and by 1926, The museum is an enormous increase in visitors. It is a popular
the area had grown sufficiently village made up of historic rural place to pitch a tent in summer.
to officially become a town.
However, in 1940 the Soviets
incorporated it into Tallinn.
Today, Nõmme is one of the
most attractive areas of the city,
with its own outdoor market,
historic centre, cafés and
restaurants, and some fine
museums. The Kristjan Raud
Museum is dedicated to the
artist who illustrated the epic
poem Kalevipoeg, while the
Baron von Glehn Castle, built
by a Baltic-German landlord
who largely founded the area, is Old wooden house by the sea, Estonian Open-Air Museum
PÕH
JA P
AJA
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TE
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Key NIIN
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VA N A- K
PU
Major sight Põhja puiestee
A
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HJ
PÕ
Place of interest KO TZE BU
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Railway station U E
EB
TZ
Tram stop KO
Ferry port
KO Balti Jaam St Olav’s
SU
Bus station PL
U
I Church
RT
Balti Jaam
I
Tourist information
KI
Bus Terminal
LA
Hospital Balti Jaam
Central Railway E TORNIDE
Station TE VÄLJAK Estonian Museum
Church ÄE of Applied Art VA
Railway N AM Church of the and Design IM
U
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R AN Transfiguration
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of Our Lord
VI
Pedestrian street
PIK
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SUUR-KLOOSTRI
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House of
N
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Snelli Pond
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Tallinn City
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Estonian
E
MU
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Scale of Map History Museum
PÜ
HA
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Holy Spirit
PU
0 metres 300
NUN NE
Church Town Hall
OM
Knights’
LG
PLATS
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Cathedral of
JA
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VE
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St Mary the Virgin KRI Hall
PIK
KIRIKU DUN
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K A Alexander Museum N IGU L ISTE Estonian
NI TOOM Nevsky Photography
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JA HIK
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KO Music
MA
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A
St John’s
AO
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SO N I
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W I SM
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Occupations IES
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LU
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National
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A-Terminal
Energy
Centre
MA
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Linnahall Tallinn
Ferry Terminal
IES TE E
C-Terminal
KA I
D-Terminal
ME RE PU
Fat Margaret
Tower
Three
RA
Sisters
NN
PIKK
AM
LO O
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TSI
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AH AH Simeon
TR TR
KA
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Salt Storage
MERE
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Warehouse
VENE
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Church
K AT
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NAR
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NARVA M A A N T E E
UUS
Viru Gate
E
EŽI
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Bus Station
HE
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Viru
ARTIS
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TO SIOR RA FR
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Theatre Concert
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HER N E
ESTONIA REGION BY REGION 89
WESTERN ESTONIA
The region enjoys some of the country’s most stunning natural
landscapes and is also historically entwined with the Estonian
national identity in countless ways. The erratic, time-worn
coastline is punctuated with numerous places of cultural
interest as well as some lively summer resorts, while the
archipelago is remarkable for its unspoiled, timeless beauty.
Növa
Spithami
Riguldi
Sutlepa
Vo
Lehtma
o
si
VORMSI
St
ra
ISLAND
i
Kärdla
t
Hullo
Lauka Hellamaa HAAPSALU
Rohuküla
Kalana Heltermaa
Ahli
HIIUMAA
ISLAND Käina
Kassari
Leisu
Sõru Nõmmküla
Emmaste MUHU
ISLAND Virtsu
Metsküla Kuivastu
Angla Leisi
Tagaranna Pöide
Karja
Elegant church with historical architecture Undva
D
in Pärnu
N
Kõruse Laimjala
A
L
IS Kõljala
Vilsandi Kihelkonna AA Siiksaare
National E M
Sights at a Glance Park AR
SA
Towns and Cities
Kuressaare G ulf
Kipi Vätta
1 Paldiski Nasva of Rī ga
2 Haapsalu
Tiirimetsa
6 Lihula
9 Pärnu pp102–3
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18
WESTERN ESTONIA 91
Key
Motorway
Main road
Secondary road
Minor road
Rohuneeme Ihasalu Kaberneeme Railway
Tallinn
Aruküla Soodla
So
Vääna
od
Lohusalu Aegviidu
la
Luige
Kiviloo Jänijõgi Jäneda
PALDISKI Keila
Pirita
Vas Aruvalla
ale Keila Rakvere
Tõdva
m
Ääsmäe
Jä
ma
Kose Albu
ga
la
Vasalemma
Vih
Kohila
Audevälja Ardu
te r p
Kernu
lu
a
Kuimetsa Anna
Turba
Seljaküla Rapla
Varbola
Tartu Getting Around
Risti Paide
Raikküla Kädva The main motorway in the
region is Highway 4, which
la
Lelle
a
Taebla Männiku
e Pärnu and onwards to Tallinn.
Martna Velis
Valgu Laupa
It is also called the Estonian
MATSALU Eidapere segment of the Via Baltica. The
NATIONAL Paljasmaa main road number 9 connects
PARK Vändra
Kergu Tallinn and Haapsalu and
Matsalu Vöhma
LIHULA branches off at Risti into main
dra
Paadrema
nu
ug
Ahaste
Pä
Paa
Paikuse Kõpu
Matsi Tõstamaa PÄRNU islands can be reached by
te
Kilingi-
a
Nõmme Valga
KIHNU
ISLAND Jäärja
Häädemeeste
Kabli Massiaru
Ikla
Rīga
1 Paldiski
Road Map C1. * 4,000. £
@ 145 from Tallinn. ∑ paldiski.ee
The Matsalu Bay islet, part of the idyllic Matsalu National Park
94 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Kõrgessaare
Otste
Hellamaa
Baltic Sea Lauka
Nõmba
Taterma
0 km 10 Kassari
Orjaku
0 miles 10 Leisu Jausa
Valgu
Sõru Emmaste
Key
Major road
Minor road
for murdering one of his ships’ 1500 and completed in 1531. E Lihula Museum
captains in the house. There are At the end of the 1980s, the Linnuse tee 1. Tel 477 8880.
64 rooms in this grand manor, crumbling edifice was Open irregular hours; call for timings.
which currently houses two reinforced with four thick
schools. Although the interior sloping buttresses, giving it its
is not open to the public, it is highly distinctive appearance. 7 Muhu Island
possible to take a stroll around The equally distinct Ristna Road Map C2. @ from Tallinn, Pärnu.
the manor’s vast grounds. Lighthouse (1874) stands only g from Virtsu. 0 - =
10 km (6 miles) further west, ∑ muhu.info
} Kassari at the tip of the peninsula.
* 90. @ from Kärdla. 8 Most people generally pass
Hiiumaa Museum: Open May–Aug: through Muhu Island on their
10am–5:30pm Mon–Sun. & way to Saaremaa without
A small island connected to spending much time here.
Hiiumaa by a causeway, Kassari However, Muhu is an extremely
is known for its natural beauty. attractive island whose small
The 18th-century Kassari size makes it easy to explore.
chapel-turned-church is the The village of Liiva, just 6 km
only functioning church with (4 miles) from the ferry terminal,
a reed roof in Estonia. Near the is home to the 13th-century
church is the village of Kassari St Catherine’s Church, while
itself, home to the Hiiumaa the nearby coastal village
Museum, which gives an of Koguva is a picturesque
overview of Hiiumaa from the ensemble of stone farmhouses
Stone Age through to the Kõpu Lighthouse, one of the world’s oldest with thatched roofs.
present. The island culminates functioning lighthouses Muhu Island has preserved
in the stunning Sääre Tirp its charming tradition of
peninsula in the south, a 2-km brightly painted farmhouse
(1-mile) spit that can be 6 Lihula doors, some of which depict
covered on foot or by car. Road Map C2. * 1,600. n Tiigi 5,
symbols that are said to keep
The Orjaku Nature Trail 477 8191. ∑ lihula.ee evil spirits away.
explores Käina Bay, a major bird The rugged natural beauty
sanctuary. The coastal water The quiet town of Lihula leads of the island also makes it a
around Kassari is said to be to Matsalu National Park (see wonderful place for long
the warmest in Estonia and the p93) and also serves as the last walks, especially along the
island has plenty of good stopping-off point en route to pristine coastline.
beaches, especially in the south.
With only four villages, Kassari
retains its peace even in the
height of summer.
P Kõpu Lighthouse
Kõpu village, 35 km (22 miles) W of
Kärdla. Open May–end Sep:
10am–8pm daily. Tel 469 3474. & 8
Midway along the rocky Kõpu
peninsula, this is the world’s
third-oldest working lighthouse.
Built on the highest hill of
Hiiumaa, it was commissioned
by the Hanseatic League in Stone farmhouses in the fishing village of Koguva, Muhu Island
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18
96 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
8 Saaremaa Island
Saaremaa is Estonia’s largest island and the jewel of its
archipelago. The capital, Kuressaare, is a strikingly picturesque
town whose relatively tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal
base from which to explore the island. The place has a lot to
offer in terms of things to see and do, but its extraordinary
natural beauty is the real attraction and the reason why so
many people feel compelled to return here. The breathtaking
landscape of Vilsandi National Park, the abundance of old
churches and the fascinating historic relics dotted throughout
the island are just some of the main highlights (see pp98–9).
Võhma
Mustjala
. Vilsandi National Park
Known for its awe-inspiring landscapes,
unspoiled islets and bird sanctuaries, this park
was established in 1993 to preserve the
ecology of Estonia’s coast.
Kihelkonna
Karla
0 km 5 Lűmanda
0 miles 5
Salme
Sõrve
Peninsula
Mõntu
Sääre
Key
Sõrve Peninsula Major road
The scenery along Sõrve Peninsula is some of the most Minor road
spectacular on the island, culminating in the magnificently wild
and windswept tip. The best way to explore the ravishing Ferry route
coastline is to take a bike or car trip. Park boundary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18
WESTERN ESTONIA 97
. Angla Windmills
Standing along the main
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
road from Kuressaare to Leisi,
Practical Information
the five wooden windmills
Road Map C2. n Tallinna 2,
at Angla are an iconic
Kuressaare, 453 3120. Open mid-
symbol of Saaremaa Island
May–mid-Sep: 9am–5pm Mon–
and one of Estonia’s most
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; mid-
photographed sights.
Sep–mid-May: 9am–5pm Mon–
Fri. 8 ∑ visitsaaremaa.ee
Transport
k Kuressaare. @ from Tallinn,
Tartu, Pärnu to Kuressaare.
g from Virtsu to Kuivastu
(Muhu Island), Hiiumaa Island to
Triigi, Roomassaare to Ruhnu.
Book ferry in advance.
Hiiumaa
Island
Muhu
Island
Leisi
Liiva
Orissaare
Angla Karja
Church Kuivastu
Karja
Tagavere
Laimjala
Kaali
Kaarma
Upa Koljala
Kuressaare
Poppy Fields
Ruhnu Due to its temperate climate and fertile soil,
Island Saaremaa has over 200 local species of flora.
Abruka
Orchids and poppies grow wild in some parts.
KEY
P Angla Windmills
Buildings interspersed with greenery in the attractive town of Kuressaare 15 km (9 miles) N of Kaali.
@ from Kuressaare.
Kuressaare out of local dolomite, it is a Lined up along the Upa–Leisi
* 16,000. k 4 km (2 miles) SW of spectacular sight, as visitors road, the five Angla Windmills
town centre. n Tallinna 2. _ St John’s approach it through the (Angla tuulikud) are the last
Eve (23 Jun). ∑ kuressaare.ee surrounding landscaped park. remaining group of windmills in
This small, attractive and serene The castle houses the intriguing Saaremaa. In the mid-19th
town epitomizes the spirit of Saaremaa Regional Museum, century, there were 800 working
Saaremaa. Kuressaare’s main whose labyrinthine interior is windmills on the island. Four of
thoroughfare, Lossi, which turns a joy to explore. The exhibits the Angla Windmills are
into Tallinna, is lined with a about Saaremaa are well constructed on the traditional
stunning stretch of beautiful arranged and offer a vivid Saaremaa model, while the
buildings, including the green- account of the island’s largest is a wooden version of a
domed St Nicholas’s Church epic history. Dutch windmill. Together, they
(Nikolai kirik) and the step- Highlights of the castle form a mesmerizing sight amid
gabled Weigh House, which include the Bishop’s Living the wide open landscape.
now serves as a pub known as Quarters with a dingy, spartan Although the windmills are not
Vaekoja. Most of all, though, the
town makes a delightful place
for a stroll, especially on a
pleasant evening.
P Bishop’s Castle
Lossihoov 1, Kuressaare. Tel 455 7542.
Open May–Aug: 10am–6pm daily;
Sep–Apr: 11am–6pm Wed–Sun.
& 8 call in advance. -
∑ saaremaamuuseum.ee
Dating back to the 14th century,
the Bishop’s Castle (Piisko-
pilinnus) in Kuressare is one of
the best-preserved medieval
castles in the Baltic States. Built The Bishop's Living Quarters set in the lush grounds of the Bishop’s Castle
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18
WESTERN ESTONIA 99
R Kihelkonna Church
3 km (2 miles) NW of Kihelkonna.
Tel 454 6558. Open Jun–Aug: 10am–
5pm daily. 5
On the west coast of the island,
along the border of Vilsandi
National Park, this 13th-century
church is a treasure trove of
religious architecture and
artifacts. The organ, built in
1805, is the oldest in the
country, while the beautiful
pulpit dates from 1604. The altar
triptych, The Last Supper, is a
superb example of Renaissance
Two of the five Angla Windmills, standing tall in an open landscape church art.
open to the public, there is a nowhere, but people once } Vilsandi National Park
wonder ful assortment of flocked here for Sunday services 10 km (6 miles) W of Kihelkonna.
traditional play apparatus for from the surrounding villages. g from Papisaare. Tel 454 6880.
children just behind them. n Vilsandi National Park
E Mihkli Farm Museum Visitors’ Centre, Loona Manor.
R Karja Church 28 km (17 miles) NW of Kuressaare. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 -
Viki. Tel 454 6613. Open mid-May– ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
2 km (1 mile) NE of Angla Windmills,
Karja village. Open mid-May–mid- Aug: 10am–6pm daily; Sep–mid-Oct: This huge national park
Sep: 10am–6pm daily. 5 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & comprises Vilsandi Island along
∑ saaremaamuuseum.ee
The medieval Karja Church (Karja with some 150 islets and a
kirik) is the smallest church in In the sleepy village of Viki, narrow strip of coast culminating
Saaremaa, but also one of the Mihkli Farm Museum in the rugged Harilaid Peninsula.
the most beautiful. It is (Mihkli talumuuseum) is a The park was established thanks
well known for its elabo- picturesque farmstead to a lighthouse keeper named
rate stone carvings, consisting of beautiful Artur Toom, who set up a bird
which include a relief thatched cottages, a sanctuary here in 1910. The
of the Crucifixion windmill, a brewery 239-sq-km (92-sq-mile) park in its
above the side door and even an old present form was founded in 1993.
and some remarkable sauna. Most of the The most significant bird
figures inside depic- buildings date from sanctuaries are located on the
ting saints. There is 1827–56. The Vaika Islands, off the western tip
also a famous bas museum has of Vilsandi, from where the
relief showing Mary Stone carving outside authentic displays imposing 40-m (131-ft) Vilsandi
and John at Cavalry, Karja Church of rural architecture Lighthouse can be seen. For
along with the two and traditional living some of the most striking
thieves whose souls depart their styles. The farm was active scenery, head to the Harilaid
bodies in the form of children. until Soviet times, when Peninsula. From here, it is
collectivization broke it up. possible to take an invigorating
R Kaarma Church Today, visitors can learn hike up to the leaning light-
15 km (9 miles) NW of Kuressaare, traditional methods of making house. The trail offers
Kaarma village. Tel 459 5322. bread and butter. evocative scenery.
Open no regular opening hours. 5
Dating from the 13th century,
Kaarma Church (Kaarma kirik) is
one of the oldest churches in
Western Estonia. A stone tablet
over the front portal attests to
repairs made to the church in
1407 and is considered to be
the first written example of
the Estonian language. The
15th-century pulpit with a
polychrome figure of Joseph
beneath it is especially
impressive. The church may
appear incongruously large,
standing in the middle of Display showing the interior of a rural household, Mihkli Farm Museum
The leaning Kiipsaare Lighthouse, Harilaid Peninsula, Saaremaa Island
102 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
P Ammende Villa
Mere pst 7. Tel 447 3888. See Where to Lydia Koidula (1843–86)
Stay p298 and Where to Eat and Drink Lydia Emilia Florentine Jannsen is a highly influential figure in
p317. ∑ ammende.ee Estonian history. Although she was forced to write under the
Built in 1905 by a wealthy local pseudonym Koidula, meaning “of the
merchant for the wedding party dawn”, because writing was not
of his beloved daughter, considered a suitable career for a
Ammende Villa is one of the woman at that time, her poetry was
most impressive examples of ecstatically received. Her My Country is
Art Nouveau architecture in the My Love became the unofficial national
country. Over the years, it has anthem during Soviet times. Some critics
believe that Koidula’s finest writing was
served as a casino, a health
her passionate correspondence with the
establishment and a library,
writer Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald,
before two Estonian business although his jealous wife eventually put
men renovated it and converted an end to it. Koidula later married a
it into a luxury hotel, with a Latvian doctor. She died of cancer in
beautiful finedining restaurant. Kronstadt, in the Gulf of Finland, pining Lydia Koidula, a major Estonian
The villa is located a short walk for her country to the last. writer and poet
from the sea and the Old Town.
3 St Catherine’s Church KA
Concert Hall
LDA
4 Pärnu Concert Hall AIDA
AKADEEMIA
TU
VE E
5 Tallinn Gate
ÕH
Railway Station
PÕHJA
6 Ammende Villa
5 km (3 miles)
PIKK Bus
K E S KVÄ L J A K Station
MALMÖ
P Ü H AVA I
HOM
HOSPIDALI
St Catherine’s Town
Church Hall
MIK
UUS
M U NG A
ÕHTU
ÕHTU P
MU
U
VEE
V N -TA L L I NN A
R Ü Ü TL I
R Ü Ü T LI
NIKOLA
KUNINGA
I
KUNINGA Elizabeth’s
Church
RIN LÕ U N A Koidula
PÜHA
GI
NA Park
Tallinn LÕ U
Gate
VA I M
VEE
U
GA
UR
M RI
U
EL
N RINGI
MER
MM
GI
NIKOLAI
E
RE
UI
P
ES
TEE
ES
PL
0 metres AN
200 Ammende AA ESPLANA
ADI
DI
Villa
0 yards 200
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
esti
Nav
te
llis
Ha
gi
mjō
Raudna Lem
Tõramaa
Tõrama
Lake
Karuskose Farm Oordi
Close to hiking trails Viljandi
and bog-land, this farm
offers guided walks,
fishing, canoeing and
traditional canoe-
building courses.
EASTERN ESTONIA
The landscape of Eastern Estonia, punctuated with rolling hills,
lush forests, limestone escarpments and pristine lakes, is more
diverse than the country’s western part. This truly fascinating
region combines idyllic scenery with picturesque old manor
houses and the unique cultural heritage of the Setu people
and Old Believers, which have survived through the centuries.
Despite its stunning landscape, some parts country’s nature reserves for the variety of
of Eastern Estonia are less frequented by its landscape and natural features. Further
tourists, especially the far northeast, along, the Ontika Coast, with its huge
southeast and around Lake Peipsi. The vast limestone escarpments and cascading
mass of Lake Peipsi dominates the central waterfalls, is breathtaking.
part of this region. The western shores of Sights of political, historic and social
the lake are dotted with the sizeable settle- history abound in the southeast as a
ments of Russian Old Believers who have whole. Viljandi is famous for its Folk Music
been living here for countless generations. Festival, while Estonia’s national flag was
Captured and conquered repeatedly by sanctified in Otepää, the winter sports
Russians from 1558 until Estonia’s capital, where snowboarding and ice
independence in 1991, the historic fortress skating bring the town to life. Tartu,
city of Narva still bears testimony to the Estonia’s second-largest city and its
enormous role Russia has played in spiritual and intellectual capital, is
shaping Estonia’s history. During World home to the nation’s oldest university.
War II, the value of oil-shale mining rose With attractions such as the grand
significantly, bringing Kohtla-Järve into Sangaste Manor and the captivating Suur
sharp focus. Today, this heavily industrial Munamägi viewing tower at the country’s
town serves as a vast, sprawling living highest point, the south and southeast are
monument to Soviet-era industry. among Estonia’s most scenic areas. In the
East of Tallinn, Lahemaa National Park far southeast, the ethnographically distinct
is arguably the most beautiful of the Setu people continue to live traditionally.
Va l ge
Tallinn RAKVERE
the pristine beach at Narva-Jõesuu. To the south is
jõ
i
g
Lake Peipsi. The picturesque landscape of the south- So
od
east provides a beautiful backdrop to attractive towns Udriku Pajusti
Tapa
la
Aegviidu
such as Viljandi and Otepää, as well as to countless Kullenga
places of historic significance. Tartu makes an
VÄIKE-
ideal base from which to explore the region. Käravete Tamsalu MAARJA
Jä
ga
a Vajangu Kiltsi
l
Järva-
Ardu Madise
0 kilometres 20 Järva-
Roosna- Jaani Rakke
0 miles 20 Alliku
Koeru
Anna
Müüsleri
Vahastu
ENDLA NATURE
Sights at a Glance PAIDE RESERVE
q Paide Jaani
lt
sa
w Põltsamaa
m
a
Kaansoo
a
Pärnu
e Tartu pp118–21 Mudiste
t Viljandi Leie
a
y Otepää Oiu
ks
O Vastemõisa
assilma
o Rõuge Rau än
dna
T
a Vastseliina
VILJANDI LAKE
s Võru Tipu
VÕRTSJÄRV
d Põlva
Hall
Tour
h Lake Peipsi p127 Medieval Ivangorod Castle, seen from Narva
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
EASTERN ESTONIA 109
u
Highway 3 (E264) links Tartu and
ns
Ko
Valga, skirting the northern part of
KUREMÄE
Anguse Tarumaa Lake Peipsi along the way. The town of
Kuningaküla
a
Rakvere also has a road leading to Tartu.
Tudu A railway connects Tallinn with Rakvere,
n
ge
un
Isaku
small airport. In the southeast an intricate
nn
Peressaare
Ra
LAKE
Sadala Mustvee PEIPSI
Kantküla Torma Raja
Ku Omedu
lla u Ranna
ve
ed
re
Om
Jögeva
Kallaste
Kaarepere
Alatskivi
Kolkja
Koosa Kasepää
Puurmani Tabivere
Vara
Varnja
Laeva
e Kevastu
m Meerapalu
m
A
Kärevere
Ahja
TARTU
Rekusaare
Reola Võnnu
Rasina Fishing village in Lahemaa National Park
Naha
Ahja
Kambja
Rannu Elva KIIDJÄRVE WATERMILL
Vastse-
Kuuste
Maaritsa TAEVASKOJA
Rõngu SANDSTONE CLIFFS
Saverna PÕLVA Mikitamäe
Viluste Värska
Kuutse Mägi OTEPÄÄ Vana-
217 m (712 ft) j Kojola
a
Ah
Pühajärv
u
an d
Vaartsi
Keeni Kärgula Väimela
h
Lasva
Võ
Piusa
SANGASTE Obinitsa
MANOR Sõmerpalu VÕRU
Antsla Meremäe Key
Laatre i
õg
j Motorway
sti Haanja VASTSELIINA
Mu
Valga RÕUGE Main road
MÕNISTE OPEN- Secondary road
AIR MUSEUM SUUR MUNAMÄGI
Koikküla Minor road
Scenic route
Krabi
Taheva Railway
International border
Peak
Va
lg
nated a national park in the erstwhile Soviet Union. The diverse
ejõ
gi
ESTONIA
terrain covers four peninsulas jutting out into the Gulf of Finland
and stretches inland over an area of 725 sq km (280 sq miles). Key
The park teems with wildlife and has several marked trails Lahemaa National Park
through its forests and bogs and along its meandering
coastline. Many impressive manor houses and picturesque
villages can be found throughout the area (see pp112–13).
Pärispea
Viinistu G ul f o f
Fi n l a n d
Suurpea
Pä ri sp e a
Pe n i n su l a Käsmu
Viinistu P en i n s ul a
Once a fishing village, Viinistu has developed Kasispea
E ru B a y
into a local cultural centre. It is home to an
impressive art gallery.
Har a
Bay Loksa
Lake
K ä s mu
Vihasoo
L ak e
L ohja
Lo
bu
Ilumäe
Va
lg
ej
õg Joaveski
i
. Käsmu Peninsula
The rugged coastline of Käsmu Peninsula, strewn
with giant boulders left behind by retreating glaciers
after the last Ice Age, has an ethereal beauty.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
EASTERN ESTONIA 111
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D1. n National Park
Võsu Visitors’ Centre, Palmse, 329 5555.
A beautiful stretch Open mid-May–Sep: 9am–5pm
of beach, a tranquil daily; Oct–mid-May: 9am–5pm
atmosphere and Mon–Fri. 0 - = available
stunning natural at Võsu (May–Sep).
surroundings make ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe
this historic village
a very popular Transport
@ from Tallinn to Võsu, Altja,
holiday resort.
Käsmu, Viinistu.
The Oandu Forest Nature Trail
is a well-signposted 5-km
(3-mile) long route. Wildlife
can be seen foraging along the
largely moss-covered path.
K äs m u
Bay
Lame
Pihlaspea
. Altja Village
Ve rg i With its timber houses with
Pe ni ns ul a ornately thatched roofs, the
Altja fishing village of Altja provides
an authentic glimpse of a
Võsu bygone era, when its survival
depended on the sea.
Oandu
Koljaku
Sagadi
Manor
Sagadi
Metasnurga
Palmse
Sagadi Manor
The grounds of Sagadi Manor,
one of the most attractive of
. Palmse Manor House the region’s manor houses, are
The stately Baroque house has now been restored as a filled with sculptures, while its
museum, while its converted outhouses and extensive numerous outhouses include
grounds offer several other attractions. the Forestry Museum.
For keys to symbols see back flap
112 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Exploring Lahemaa National Park since the late 19th century. The
resort is 2 km (1 mile) long and
The sheer size of Lahemaa National Park makes getting packed with elegant wooden
around it by bike or car the best option. When driving to houses from end to end.
Lahemaa along the Tallinn-Narva Highway, turn off at the The most distinctive building
in the village is the old Fire
crossroads at Viitna and head north towards Palmse village, Tower, which now houses an art
where there is a National Park Visitors’ Centre. From Palmse, it gallery. Its beach, with Blue Flag
is a relatively short drive to all the main villages, sites and status, is also one of the most
areas of natural beauty. Käsmu and Võsu make convenient attractive along the north coast.
hiking and cycling bases, with plenty of good accommodation, With its soft white sand and
although most places are often booked up well in advance pine-fringed dunes, it offers
gentle shade during the hot
during summer. summer days. It is also a
convenient base for further
explorations of Oandu and Altja.
} Käsmu
16 km (10 miles N of Palmse.) * 130.
0- Käsmu Maritime Museum:
Tel 323 8136. Open May–Sep:
10am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr:
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. ∑ kasmu.ee
Approximately 6 km (4 miles)
long and 3 km (2 miles) wide,
Käsmu village is situated on the
smallest of the four peninsulas
in Lahemaa National Park. It is
often referred to as the prettiest
Regal interior of the ornately decorated Palmse Manor House village in the region due to its
proudly kept homesteads.
P Palmse Manor House landscaped. In summer, visitors Käsmu has a history as a
8 km (5 miles) N of Viitna. Tel 324 can take a boat tour of the shipbuilding centre of repute
0070. Open May–Sep: 10am–7pm serene Swan Lake and soak up in the 19th century, while the
daily, Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm daily. & the surrounding tranquility. largely ice-free bay made it a
8 call in advance. 7 0 - regular place of anchor in winter.
∑ palmse.ee } Võsu A maritime school was set up
The attractive village of Palmse 8 km (5 miles) N of Palmse. in the village in 1884 and the
is the ideal starting point for a * 480. @ from Tallinn. 0 - building now houses the
tour of the enchanting Lahemaa ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe Käsmu Maritime Museum.
National Park. It also has a well- A charming and quiet little The museum’s emphasis is on
run visitors’ centre. The focus of coastal village, Võsu is a popular the 1920s and 30s through
the village is the splendid holiday resort. Its peaceful World War II and the Soviet era,
Palmse Manor House, an ambience and stunning natural and it has an eclectic collection
elegant Baroque building that beauty have made it a favourite of artifacts honouring the
originally served as a Cistercian summer getaway for families village’s seafaring past.
convent. In 1677, it became the Käsmu is also called the
family home of the von Pahlens, Captain’s Village, because of the
a leading family of Baltic barons. 62 captains who resided here
Today, the manor house between World War I and World
serves as a museum, offering War II. It was decimated by the
an interesting overview of the Soviets in the 1940s, with many
estate’s history. The old distillery families sent to Siberia and
has been converted into a hotel others fleeing across the sea.
with an excellent restaurant, Today, the village enjoys a
while a lovely café now reputation as one of the best
occupies the bathhouse. holiday resorts in the park.
The manor house runs a wine It also boasts a fascinating
tour, where visitors can enjoy a coastline strewn with giant
glass of sparkling wine or locally erratic boulders, a large
produced wine made from scattering of which lie in a
berries grown in the nearby stone field near the village. This
Brest Pavilion. The manor Tourists enjoying themselves at the is the highlight of the famous
grounds are beautifully pine-fringed beach in Võsu Käsmu Boulder Walk (see p114).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
EASTERN ESTONIA 113
Saartneem
Island
Gulf of Finland
Er u Bay
Käsmu
Bay
2 Saartneem
A path leads from
3 Scenic Views Käsmu village to the
One of the most northwest tip of the
stunning routes in the peninsula, where a
park, this path follows chain of erratic boulders
the whole length of stretches out to the
the coast. island of Saartneem.
Käsmu
Peninsula
4 Cycle Route
The scenic bicycle route
is about 14 km (9 miles) Lake Võsu
Käsmu
long and is marked with
blue ribbons.
1 Käsmu Village
Key Käsmu village is one of
the most popular resorts
Walk route in Lahemaa. With plenty
Bicycle route of B&B accommodation,
Other road it is an ideal base for
exploring the Käsmu
Peninsula as a whole,
as well as the other
regions of Lahemaa.
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Käsmu village.
Length: 11 km (7 miles).
Walking trails: An 11-km (7-mile)
long path marked with red
ribbons leads north of Käsmu 5 Erratic Boulders
village from Old Jüri. A shorter The Stone Plantation on the
walk is the path west of Käsmu trail west of Käsmu village has
village, which leads through the a bizarre expanse of boulders. 0 km 1
Stone Plantation. These attract a large number
of visitors to the area. 0 miles 1
The limestone cliffs set against the azure Baltic Sea, Ontika Coast
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
116 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
5 Narva
Road Map E1. * 65,000. £ from
Tallinn. @ from Tallinn, Tartu.
n Peetri 3, 359 9137. _ Narva Days
(early Jun), Narva History Festival
(Aug). ∑ narva.ee
artist Tauno Kangro (b.1966), to explore than the larger the Järvamaa Museum offers
stands on top of Vallimägi Hill national parks. One of the a much broader look at the
and is a new symbol for the six hiking trails, the stunning nature and history of the area.
town. Rakvere’s inhabitants are Männikjärve Trail, stretches for The Town Hall Square is the
proud of the fact that the 1 km (half a mile) over a long focal point of the well-kept
renowned composer Arvo Pärt plank platform. To the east of town centre and offers a small
(see p27) went to school and the reserve, Emumägi Hill is variety of decent restaurants
began his music studies here. the area’s highest point. Its and cafés.
observation tower offers a
+ Rakvere Castle superb view of the countryside. E Järvamaa Museum
Vallimägi. Tel 322 5500. Open May– Lembitu 5. Tel 385 1867.
Sep: 11am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr: Open Apr–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–Sat;
10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & @ svm.ee Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
∑ jarvamaamuuseum.ee
9 Väike-Maarja
Road Map D1. * 5,000.
w Põltsamaa
@ from Rakvere. n Pikk 3, 326 1625. Road Map D2. * 5,000. @ from
∑ v-maarja.ee Tallinn, Tartu. n Lossi 1, 775 1390.
∑ poltsamaa.ee
A typical parochial Estonian
town, Väike-Maarja is steeped The idyllic town of Põltsamaa is
in history and has a number set amid the ruins of Põltsamaa
of quirky sights of interest. Castle. Once the centre of power
Housing the local tourism for Duke Magnus, the king of
information centre, the Väike- The medieval octagonal tower Livonia in the 16th century, the
Maarja Museum offers an amid castle ruins, Paide castle stronghold is an amazingly
eclectic and detailed overview eclectic jigsaw of archtectural
of the town’s history, including q Paide styles. The exquisite Rococo
exhibits showing how the Road Map D1. * 9,000. @ from
palace was built in the 18th
Forest Brothers (see p122) used Tallinn. n Keskväljak 8, 385 0400. century on the site of an old
to live. It is also possible to ∑ paide.ee convent, while the elegant
have a “Forest Brothers’ picnic” Lutheran St Nicholas’s Church
in a reconstructed bunker. Located in the centre of Estonia, dates from 1633 and was re-
Other interesting sights Paide makes the ideal base from constructed in 1952. Located in
include a Soviet missile base, which to explore the heartland an old storehouse in the castle
the Vao Stronghold Tower of the country. To emphasize its yard, the Põltsamaa Museum
Museum and the 14th-century central location, the town has boasts some fine exhibits.
town church. adopted a heart shape as its
official logo. Paide’s biggest R St Nicholas’s Church
R Väike-Maarja Museum tourist draw is the beautifully Lossi 3. Tel 776 9915. Open Jun–Aug:
Pikk 3. Tel 326 1625. Open May–Sep: restored 13th-century 10am–3pm daily. 5 11am Sun. &
10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Oct–Apr: octagonal castle tower and E Põltsamaa Museum
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. surrounding ruins. The tower Loss tänav 1. Tel 775 1390.
houses a museum focusing on Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
the town’s early history, while Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat. &
0 Endla Nature
Reserve
Endla Looduskaitseala
Road Map D1. @ from Tartu.
n Reserve Headquarters, Tooma,
70 km (43 miles) NW of Tartu, 676
7999. 8 call in advance.
∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
R St John’s Church
Jaani 5. Tel 744 2229. Open May–
Sep: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–
1pm Sun. & 5 11am Sun.
∑ jaanikirik.ee
Dating from 1330, St John’s
Church (Jaani kirik) was severely
damaged by bombing during
World War II. However, even after
Town Hall Square, with the Kissing Students Fountain in the centre extensive renovations and the
addition of a new spire in 1999,
P Town Hall Square pink Town Hall overlooking it the church remains one of the
Tartu’s historic centre is set from the top. The Great Fire of best examples of brick Gothic
around Town Hall Square 1775 burned down most of the architecture in Northern Europe.
(Raekoja plats), with the city and today the square’s Neo- Hundreds of elaborate
Emajõgi river in the front and Classical look is in sync with the terracotta figures, dating from
Toome-mägi (see pp120–21) just rest of the city centre. The the Middle Ages, adorn the
behind it. The gently sloping famous Kissing Students church’s interior. It is believed
cobble-stoned square is dis- Fountain, in front of the Town that there were originally more
tinctly Neo-Classical, with the Hall, was erected in 1998. than 1,000 of them.
Tartu
1 Town Hall Square
MA G AS IN
2 Tartu University
RÜÜ
TLI
U
I
VA B
TS
3 St John’s Church
AN
LU
I
I
AD
GILD
4 Tartu Art Museum
USE
KOM
JA I
5 Father and Son K A GILD
MA
NG
Emajõg
O
U
PA
GI
PUI
ÜLIKO
M
Statue
B
LAI
ST
I
NI
EST
RI
I
Tartu University I
ÜTR
OLI
i
EE
Main Building KÜ
Tartu Art
RÜÜ
Museum
TOOMEMÄGI
TLI
S
AT
Town PL
Hall Square O JA
EK Riverboat Pier
RA 100 m (110 yards)
KÜ
Cathedral SS
I
Ruins LO E
ÜN
P OBus Station
I
0 metres 150
IK
Father and
O
see pp120–21
Street-by-Street: Toomemägi
With its labyrinthine layout of narrow, winding streets and
elegant historic buildings, Toomemägi (Cathedral Hill) is
full of delightful surprises. In medieval times a fortress
and cathedral stood on the hill but both were abandoned
during the Livonian Wars (1558–83). Today, Toomemägi is
home to a variety of prominent public buildings. Many of
them belong to Tartu University, which was re-established
here in 1802. There are several impressive monuments to
some of the university’s most esteemed graduates in the
landscaped parks dotted around the hillside. The hill also Statue of two Wildes outside Vilde’s Health
Café (see p319)
commands some wonderful rooftop views of the city of
Tartu spread out below.
Devil’s Bridge
The bridge was built
in 1913 to honour
three centuries of
rule by the Russian
Romanov dynasty. The
bridge was dedicated
to Tsar Alexander I.
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
K
LI
Ü
. University Observatory
When it was built in 1820, the
observatory had the most . Angel Bridge
powerful achromatic tele- It is a local tradition to
scope in the world. It was hold one’s breath and make
separated from the university a wish while crossing this
in 1946 and now serves as a 19th-century yellow-and-
science centre. black bridge.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
EASTERN ESTONIA 121
Cathedral Ruins
The massive ruins bear testimony to the
original grandeur of the cathedral. Damaged
during the Livonian Wars, it was rebuilt as a
library after the reopening of the university in
1802. Visitors can climb the renovated towers.
The sacrificial
stone was the site
of worship for
pagan Estonians.
L
O
S
S
I
Tartu University
When the first students registered here in
1632, it was only the second university in
the province of Swedish Livonia. Since its
establishment, the university has played a
crucial role in Estonia’s history.
LI
O
O
Town Hall
Dating back to 1786, the current Town
Hall is the third of its kind to occupy this
position at the heart of Tartu. Its elegant
early Classicist architecture was considered
very fashionable in the 18th century.
122 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
r Lake Võrtsjärv
Road Map D2. @ from Viljandi,
Otepää. n Visitor Centre, Rannu,
527 5630. Open May–Sep: 10am–
6pm daily; Oct: 11am–5pm daily;
Nov–Apr: by arrangement. 8
∑ vortsjarv.ee
Environs
Obinitsa, 30 km (19 miles) east
of Võru, is the largest village of
the Setu community.
E Kreutzwald Memorial
Museum
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun;
View from the observation tower, Suur Munamägi Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
126 ESTONIA REGION BY REGION
Sweeping view of Lake Põlva with the spire of St Mary’s Church in the background
h Lake Peipsi
The fifth-largest lake in Europe, Lake Peipsi stretches across
a large part of the eastern border with Russia. It is a tranquil
place, steeped in history and tradition, with the immense
lake dominating every aspect of life. The region is famous
for being home to the Old Believers as well as the Setu
people (see p124). The lakeshore has beautiful stretches
of sandy beach dotted with small fishing villages.
Lohusuu
1 Mustvee Fishing, a common activity on the
A small museum coast of Lake Peipsi
dedicated to the Old
Believers and three
churches are the main ESTONIA
sights here.
Omedu RUSSIA
Ranna
2 Raja
Famed for its Old
Kallaste
Believers’ Church, the
4.5-km (3-mile) long
Raja is considered to 3 Kolkja
L a k e Pe i p si
be the longest village The Museum of Old
in Estonia. Believers is the
highlight of Kolkja. The
village also has a good
0 km Varnja
15 restaurant that offers a
0 miles 15 taste of local cuisine.
Meerapalu
Laaksaare
Mehikoorma
5 Piirissaar
This island, on
which fishermen
Räpina and onion-
growers live,
can be reached
4 Kasepää by boat
Kasepää is part of a 7-km (4-mile) from Tartu
stretch of villages that adhere to and Värska.
the Old Believers’ way of life.
Latvia at a Glance
Latvia is traditionally divided into four regions, roughly
ESTONIA
corresponding to the territories of the old Baltic tribes.
Its long, sandy coastline includes two of the country’s
largest ports, while the western region of Kurzeme is LAT VIA
Ainaži
Salacgrīva
Limbaži
Ventspils Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
Talsi Lake Saulkrasti
Lake Engure
Usmas
Engure Sigulda
0 km 25
0 miles 25
Valka
Lake
Burtnieks
Valmiera
Smiltene Alūksne
Cēsis
Skrīveri
Ludza
Rēzekne
Jēkabpils
Lake
Līvāni Preiļi Rāzna
Aglona
Daugavpils Krāslava
A PORTRAIT OF LATVIA
Lying between the other two Baltic States, Latvia is characterized by delightful
forests and lakes, fascinating historic towns and dynamic cities, which are, by
and large, unexplored. Nonetheless, the country’s exciting capital, Rīga, draws
hordes of Western Europeans throughout the year. The largest city in the Baltic
region, Rīga boasts a well-preserved Old Town packed with cultural treasures
and revels in its status as a hedonistic nightlife destination.
Long before the arrival of the German While still trying to come to terms with the
crusaders in 1201, local Latvian tribes had social, economic and political legacies of
established trading links with merchants the 20th century, the country entered the
as far afield as Byzantium, while Orthodox 21st century with confidence. The historic
Christianity had made inroads from the cores of Rīga and other major cities have
East. Yet, it was the crusaders who were been restored, while the rural areas are
responsible for ushering in eight centuries being developed for ecotourism.
of foreign domination. A short period
of self-determination in the early People
20th century ended with occupation first The most obvious ethnic divide is
by Nazi Germany and then by Soviet between the country’s Latvian and
Russia. The Soviet era brought rapid Russian communities, who make up
industrialization, while the restoration of 60 and 30 per cent respectively of the
independence in 1991 further hastened country’s population of 2 million.
the pace of the country’s modernization. Although Russians form the majority in
Nonetheless, a distinctively Latvian culture Latvia’s major cities, a significant pro-
developed and survived, assimilating portion of them are not citizens, as they
foreign influences and substantial regional have not taken the mandatory language
differences. A connection with nature, and citizenship tests. They cannot vote
reflecting centuries of rural toil, has in national elections, nor are they allowed
remained intact at the same time. to travel and work freely in the EU.
Traditional Latvian folk dancers performing at the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, near Rīga
Tourism
One very evident change
in recent years has been
the rapid growth in
tourism. While much
of the country remains
underexplored by foreign
visitors, Rīga has firmly
established itself on the A group of rafters in the forested Kurzeme region
136 I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
LATVIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
With the pagan past never entirely erased concentrated in Rīga, although other cities,
by the German crusaders, the Latvian particularly Liepāja, have their share, and
calendar is punctuated by celebrations many smaller towns celebrate folk festivals.
which mark the rhythm of passing seasons. The best time to visit is from May to mid-
Many folk traditions are incorporated into September. Rīga, however, gets plenty of
Christian festivals, and they provide a tourists throughout the year due to its
chance to experience traditional activities. vibrant cultural life and it can look very
International cultural events are attractive on a clear winter’s day.
March
Piano Stars (Mar–Apr), Liepāja. Summer
This festival was established in The summer months are the
1993 and attracts pianists from best time to visit, not only
around the world. because the weather is at its
most enjoyable, but because it
April is festival season.
International Baltic Ballet Knights fighting in the Baltic
Festival (Apr–May). The festival, June Medieval Festival
which features styles of dance Rīga Opera Festival (mid-Jun),
ranging from classical to avant Rīga. An international festival Midsummer (23–24 Jun).
garde, is held in Rīga as well as marking the end of the Latvian On Herb Day (Līgo), houses
other towns. National Opera season, with an and barns are decorated with
over view of the previous year. branches, flowers and leaves.
May Arts and Crafts Fair (first In the evening, songs are
Livonian Festival (late May), weekend), Rīga. This event has sung around fires which
Cēsis. Highlights include been in existence since 1971, remain lit until the dawn
medieval music, food, crafts with music, theatre, dance and of St John’s Day (Jāņi).
workshops and battle traditional crafts demonstrations
reenactments held in the at the Ethnographic OpenAir July
town’s Livonian Order castle. Museum (see p163). Sea Festival (second weekend).
Fishermen are honoured
along with the God of the Sea
in this nationwide festival.
Latvian Song and Dance
Festival, Rīga. This amateur
choral festival is the largest of
its kind in the world. It is held
every five years and is next
scheduled for 2018.
Folklore Baltica Festival, Rīga.
The three Baltic capitals host
the event in turns.
Rīgas Ritmi (first week), Rīga.
Jazz and world music artists
perform at this music festival.
Summer Sound, Liepāja.
This festival confirms the city’s
claim to be the home of
Performers at the Rīga Opera Festival Latvian rock music.
L AT V I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 137
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Good Friday (March/April)
Easter Sunday and Monday
(March/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Restoration of the
Independence of the
Republic of Latvia (4 May)
Mother’s Day (second
Sunday in May)
Midsummer (23–24 June)
Proclamation of the
Republic of Latvia (18 Nov)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
Visitors enjoying the beautiful city of Rīga in autumn
138 I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
1621 Rīga seized by King King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden (1594–1632) 1905 Socialist rev
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden olution demands
1822 First independence
1680 Rīga’s first 1873 First
Latvian
newspaper, in Latvian Song
newspaper 1917 Russian
German, started Festival held
printed Revolution
1600 1700 1800 1900
1689 Bible 1710 Rīga 1850s National 1918 Formal
translated into conquered 1817 Serfdom Awakening 1914 German declaration of
Latvian by Peter outlawed Movement occupation of Latvian
1629 Sweden the Great in Kurzeme formed Latvia begins independence
colonizes Latvia
140 I N T R O D U C I N G L AT V I A
The First Independence Latvia a part of the USSR. Anyone who had
Latvia’s newly formed government was played a significant role in “bourgeois”
forced to flee to Liepāja in January 1919, Latvia was either executed or deported to
returning to Rīga in July, when the city had Siberia. The German invasion followed a
been freed of Bolshevik troops. year later, in June 1941, and most
Throughout that year, many forces of Latvia was occupied within
were ranged against Latvian inde 10 days. The Nazi regime was as
pendence and against each other, brutal, but with different targets.
including the Germans, Poles and Most of its victims were from the
Russians. Latvia was only assured of its Jewish community, which had
independence when it signed a peace grown considerably after the
treaty with Russia on 11 August 1920. laws which restricted Jewish
Despite the constantly changing residence were lifted in 1840.
governments that ruled until 1934, President Kārlis Ulmanis
much was achieved during this (1877–1942) The Return of the Russians
period of independence. Trade was The Soviets returned to Eastern
redirected westwards and away from Russia, Latvia and Rīga as “liberators” in autumn
the Latvian language had a resurgence and 1944, though the Germans held out until
Rīga came to be regarded as the Baltic May 1945 in the country’s west. This
region’s capital. The leading political figure enabled nearly 100,000 Latvians to escape
throughout this period was Kārlis Ulmanis to Germany and Sweden, from where many
(1877–1942), who staged a coup in 1934 and continued on to Britain, Canada and
abolished parliament. He proclaimed himself Australia. In March 1949, the Russians
president, taking Mussolini as his role model. carried out more deportations; this time
Progress came to a grinding halt with the their victims were mostly farmers unwilling
Soviet invasion on 17 June 1940, making to join the new collectives. As Latvians
were forcibly removed from their own
country, Russians were happy to take their
place, and their numbers grew throughout
the Soviet era. By 1990, half the population
of the country was Russianspeaking and
there was a serious threat that Latvian would
disappear as the national language. The
first public protest took place in 1987, when
a crowd gathered around the Freedom
Monument in Rīga, to commemorate the
1941 deportations to Siberia. New political
groups began to emerge a year later. The
Soldiers marching through Rīga in 1940 most forceful of them, the Popular Front of
1919 Bolshevik 1934 Coup 1939 Russia and Germany sign 1956 Athlete Inese
government in establishes the RibbentropMolotov Pact Jaunzeme becomes the
power in Rīga for Kārlis Ulmanis first Latvian to win
1940 First Soviet
six months as president Olympic gold
occupation
Jews in Latvia
In the early 19th century, Jews in the Russian Empire were
barred from the academic world, government and the
army officer corps. Anti-Semitism worsened under
Tsar Alexander III (1881–94). Between the two world wars,
President Ulmanis firmly suppressed the activities of fringe
groups that wanted to promote anti-Semitism. As part of
its Latvian invasion in June 1941, Nazi Germany put its
extermination policies into practice at once. The genocide
was carried out in two phases that year. By 1945, only
about 1,000 Jews, from a pre-war population of 95,000, had
survived. Jewish institutions were re-established in 1988, at
the end of the Soviet era. A proper evaluation of Jewish
history in all eras could only be carried out after Pro-German Latvian militia standing guard over
independence in 1991. captured Jews in Liepāja in 1941
RĪGA
With its long history as a mercantile centre, Rīga is the largest
and most cosmopolitan city in the Baltic States. This is reflected
in the buildings that line its streets and squares. The Old Town
boasts an engaging array of medieval warehouses and Dutch
Renaissance apartments. Remarkable Art Nouveau buildings,
which secured the city UNESCO World Heritage Site status, can
also be found.
Exploring Rīga
For many centuries Rīga was largely contained within the city walls on LA
IE
the right bank of the Daugava river. Now known as the Old Town, this EK
U
AL
BE
RT
I A
area contains most of the city’s sites of interest. The main route through R
ĒL
N IE
LA
ST
the tangle of picturesque streets and squares is Kaļķu Street, leading
from the Stone Bridge (Akmens tilts) to Brīvības Street and the E L IZ A
BETE
S
Freedom Monument. When the city walls were removed in the IE L A
KA
boulevards and parks. The main train and bus stations lie on IE
LA
LP
S
KRONVALDA A
AK
IJ
the southeastern edge of this ring. To the north is the late PARK
TO
N
A
N
19th- and early 20th-century extension of the city known A
BU
LV
as the Quiet Centre, which includes some of Riga’s most
ĀR
A
ĀN
IS
UN
impressive Art Nouveau architecture. J
AL IELA
A
Sights at a Glance ĀR
E M
LD
Churches and Cathedrals u House of Blackheads VA
BASTEJKALNS
RA ls
ST
Ā ta
e s
EJ
DEM Canals
A
JĒKABA LV
ĀR
ŅA LAUKUMS IS
2 Museum of the Barricades ŠJĀ
KRI
JĒKA
of 1991 TO R Ņ A
IELA
3 Museum of Rīga’s
TORŅA IE
BA
LA
M
IE
PILS IELA U M SM
LA
IL ŠU
E PIL SM IELA
G ĀT S IE
NO
L
Museum PO
ĻU A
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A
VE
U
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R
M
DOMA
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IE
LAUKUMS
BR
of Latvia IE
K
LA
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A
I E BĪS ŠĶ
s Museum of Decorative Arts
KR
M
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K Ū
TIR
A Ņ U
PA U ĻĶ
A
AS
and Design A
GOŊU IEL A
G IE K
Ā
TM
LA
KA
LĒ
TE
d Porcelain Museum KR JU
AL
LA
IE ĀM IE
IE
LA
PA
A
LA U
g Photography Museum
UN
LA
SK
ST
JA
Ā
k Krišjānis Barons Memorial
A
R
ŅU
IE
Da
LA
IE
Museum LA
KU
ug
RĀTS
NG
of Art
v
IE
a
IELA
LA
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c Pauls Stradiņš Museum of
O
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GR
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LA
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IE
A
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LA
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EN
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LA
9 Parliament
q Swedish Gate
w St Jacob’s Barracks
r Cats’ House
0 metres 200
t Great Guild
y Small Guild 0 yards 200
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22
RĪGA 145
Key
Place of interest
Railway
D
ZI Pedestrian Street
RN
A
V
U
IE
LA
D
Z
IR
N Town Hall Square, Rīga
A
V
U
LA
IE
IE
Getting Around
S
LA
LA
EL
O
SK
A IZ
IE
L A The Old Town is compact and best explored on
LA
BE
IE
S
IC
IE
BA
A
KA
Taxis are also abundant outside the
S
NA
RI
Ā
LV
BU
Ā
RI information offices can offer
IE
S
EL
B
LA
A
U
IZ
ĪB
LV
AB
ĪV
IELA
Ā TĒRBA
TA S
BR
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VĒRMANES
M
PARK
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LA
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LV Ī B
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BU RĪV
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SP
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LV
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13
3 Museum of Rīga’s
History and
Impressive Cross-Vaulted Gallery of the Dome, Dome Cathedral Navigation
Rīgas vēstures un kuğniecības muzejs
1 Dome Cathedral 19th-century stained glass. The
Palasta iela 4. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721
Doma baznīca woodwork of the 17th-century
1358. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm
pulpit is ornate, however, as is
Doma laukums 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
the organ case, which is & 8 ∑ rigamuz.lv
7573. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily Mannerist with Baroque and
(to 5pm Wed & Fri); Oct–Apr: 10am–
Rococo additions. It is possible Founded in 1773, this museum
5pm daily. Closed for special events.
to visit the Cross-Vaulted is the oldest in Rīga. Housed in
& 5 8am Mon–Sat; noon Sun.
∑ doms.lv
Gallery of the Dome, a an impressive building with
Romanesque cloister and tiled stoves and stained-glass
Founded as St Mary’s in 1211 by courtyard, all year round. windows, it is also one of the
Bishop Albert von Buxhoevden, city’s most interesting and
the cathedral became one of varied museums. The exhibition
the city’s three seats of power 2 Museum of the on navigation stresses the
alongside the Town Hall and the Barricades of 1991 strong maritime history of the
castle. It gained its current 1991 Gada barikāžu muzejs city up until World War I, and
name from the German word includes several large model
Dom, meaning “cathedral”, dur- Krāmu iela 3. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721 3525. ships and material on Krišjānis
ing the Reformation. The cathe- Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. Valdemārs (see p195). Other
& donations. 8 ∑ barikades.lv
dral looks as if it has sunk, but in rooms cover everything from
fact the land around it has been prehistory to independence.
raised to keep out floodwater This museum recalls the pivotal Highlights from the Middle
from the Daugava river. days of January 1991 when the Ages include the Madonna on a
The largest place of worship people of Rīga took to the Crescent Moon, a sculpture of the
in the Baltic region, the streets, following the threat patroness of the Great Guild
cathedral has been altered over of direct presidential rule from dating from the late 15th
the years and its bulky structure Moscow and the stationing of century, which was taken to
exhibits a variety of styles. The Soviet tanks outside the Germany during World War II,
altar alcove and the east wing Supreme Council in Vilnius. The and Big Kristaps, a large 16th-
crossing are Romanesque, with most fascinating of the exhibits century statue of St Christopher.
a cross-vaulted ceiling and rows
of semi-circular windows.
Simpler Neo-Gothic additions
are characterized by pointed
arches, large windows and
lierne vaulting, while the
eastern pediment and the
steeple are in an 18th-century
Baroque style. The portal was
added in the 19th century,
followed by an Art Nouveau
vestibule in the 20th century.
Most of the interior decor
was destroyed during the
Reformation, and it is now very
plain except for the tombs
of merchants and the Interior of the Museum of the Barricades of 1991
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22
RĪGA 147
9 Parliament
Saeima
Jēkaba 11. Map 1 C3. ∑ saeima.lv
Town Hall
LA
IE
Statue of Roland KU
IE
A legendary medieval figure and C IN
one of Charlemagne’s knights, Ē
GR
Roland became a symbol of
the independence of cities
from the local nobility.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22
RĪGA 151
a . St Peter’s Church
This striking building has been destroyed and rebuilt several
times over since its original 13th-century incarnation.
Konventa Sēta
The winding Convent
Courtyard has been
renovated and is now home
to shops, galleries and the
Porcelain Museum (see p153).
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
S
K
Ā
R
Ņ
U
IE
L
A
St John’s
Church
LA
IE
ļU
A
ST
Jāņa Sēta
R
Ā
Photography Museum
Mentzendorff House
p Mentzendorff House
Dannenstern House This restored late
was the largest 17th-century building is
dwelling in home to a museum of
17th-century Rīga. the merchant class.
152 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
o Latvian Riflemen
Monument
Strēlnieku piemineklis
Strēlnieku laukums. Map 1 C4. 7
a St Peter’s Church
Pēterbaznīca
Skārņu 19. Map 2 D4. Tel 6718 1430. Vera Viduka’s 1977 textile at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7
except tower. & for tower
∑ peterbaznica.riga.lv
for Rīga’s original Livonian Order f St John’s Church
castle in 1208, and became a Jāņa baznīca
First mentioned in 1209, St Peter’s separate church after the castle
Church was, unlike other was destroyed in 1297. After Jāņa 7. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 4028.
churches, largely built by the Livs the Reformation it was used as Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
5 6:30pm Wed, 10am Sun.
(see p176) and not by foreigners. a warehouse, and traces of
None of the original wooden sacred and profane uses have Built as the cloister chapel for a
church remains, but parts of the been retained in the building. Dominican Order monastery in
walls date from the 1200s. The The museum gives an over- 1234, St John’s was devastated
semi-circular apse and its five view of decorative arts from by 15th-century fighting
chapels were built in the 15th the 1890s to the present day. between the Livonian Order
century, while the three Baroque Temporary exhibitions are and the city. Only the main
dolomite entrance portals shown on the ground floor, door and porch remain, with
were added in the late while the first floor, the rest rebuilt in Gothic style,
17th century. The covering the 1890s to including a web-vaulted red-
church, which had the 1960s, is the most brick nave with an apse, choir
become Lutheran in interesting part of and tower. In 1582, the Polish
1523, was damaged the main collection. king Stefan Bathory gave the
by fire in 1721, when Highlights include church to the Lutherans, and it
Peter the Great is said painted ceramics from was further expanded in the
to have headed the the Baltars studio and Mannerist style. The interior
failed efforts to rescue it. Lenin plate, carpet designs by includes a Baroque altar
The church’s steeple Porcelain Museum Jūlijs Madernieks. dating from 1769 and a
has been rebuilt several painting, Krustā sistais (The
times over. The current one was Crucified, 1912), by Janis
d Porcelain
built in 1973. Reaching a height Rozentāls in the sacristy.
of 123 m (403 ft), it provides Museum
excellent views across the city. Rīgas porcelāna muzejs
Kalēju 9/11. Map 2 D4. Tel 6701 2944.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
s Museum of ∑ porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv
Decorative Arts
and Design Situated in the Convent
Dekoratīvās mākslas un dizaina Courtyard, this museum reflects
muzejs the history of porcelain manu-
facturing in Latvia, which dates
Skārņu iela 10/20. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 back to the late 19th century.
2235. Open 11am–5pm Tue & Thu– The 6,000 exhibits include a
Sun; 11am–7pm Wed. & 8 = wide range of dinner services,
∑ lnmm.lv
as well as a huge red-and-gold
vase made to celebrate the
This museum is housed in the city’s 700th anniversary in 1901.
former St George’s Church, Rīga’s Of historic importance is a
oldest surviving stone building. display of vases and statues Impressive ceiling and nave of
It was constructed as the chapel portraying Soviet leaders. St John’s Church
154 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
c Pauls Stradiņš
Museum of the Art Nouveau Architecture
History of Medicine Rīga’s collection of Art Nouveau buildings has been
Paula Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures
recognized by UNESCO as unparalleled anywhere in the
muzejs
world, with most found in the Quiet Centre (Klusais Centrs).
Antonijas iela 1. Map 2 D2. Tel 6722
Many of the early examples – dating from the turn of the
2665. @ 2, 24. Trolleybus 1, 19.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm 20th century – are categorized as eclectic Art Nouveau,
Thu). Closed last Fri of the month. making use of asymmetry, symbolic ornamentation and
& 8 ∑ mvm.lv details drawn from nature. Two other Art Nouveau styles
found here are perpendicular, which placed emphasis on
Opened in 1961, this museum vertical composition, and National Romanticism, which
is based around the collection
of cancer specialist Dr Pauls incorporated folk motifs and the use of natural materials.
Stradiņš and is one of the
world’s three biggest medical
museums. Its aim is to explore
the history of medicine in
relation to scientific develop-
ment. Ancient uses of
medicinal herbs, trepanning
(the oldest known surgery,
which involves making a hole
in the patient’s skull) and
Soviet developments in space
RŪP
biology and medicine are w Elizabetes iela 13
NIEZ
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Museum ELIZA
BETES
Jügendstila muzejs
Albert iela 12. Map 2 D2. Tel 6718
1464. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 ∑ jugendstils.riga.lv
0 Elizabetes iela 23
This building has anthropomorphic
carvings and a pediment with the
words “Labor vinvit omnia” (Work 4 Alberta iela 4
conquers all), which commemo 8Alberta iela 13 Lions are uncommon in Art
rates architect Mārtiņš Nukša. The numerous female Nouveau, but in this eclectic
figures on this building building their wings indicate
IELA display a range their traditional connection
EKU with the sun.
ME
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Key List of Sites PU
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PU
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1 Elizabetes iela 10b 2 Elizabetes iela 33
2 Elizabetes iela 33 8 Alberta iela 13 This early experiment with Art
3 Alberta iela 2a 9 Strēlnieku iela 4a Nouveau by Mikhail Eisenstein, one
4 Alberta iela 4 0 Elizabetes iela 23 of the foremost proponents of the
5 Alberta iela 8 q Strēlnieku iela 2 eclectic style, draws upon
Historicist architecture.
6 Alberta iela 11 w Elizabetes iela 13
7 Alberta iela 12 e Vīlandes iela 2
exclusive Mežaparks to the north was built for wealthy Baltic 6 Dauderi
7 Mežaparks
Germans. Across the Daugava river is the Left Bank, where old
8 Rīga’s Cemeteries
wooden buildings and a variety of museums can be found.
9 Biķernieki Forest
0 Motor Museum
0 km 5 Garkalne q Salaspils
•
A1
0 miles 5 w Rumbula Forest
e Vecāķi
r Latvian Ethnographic
A2
Kīšezers Open-Air Museum
A4
Key
Priedaįne Central Rīga
• •
Ūlupji Motorway
•
•
A5
ug
A8
A6
ava
E Railway Museum
2–4 Uzvaras bulvāris. Tel 6723 2849.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm
Thu). & ∑ railwaymuseum.lv
E Castle of Light
Mūkusalas iela 3. Tel 6780 6135.
Well-maintained locomotives on show at the Railway Museum, Left Bank Open 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ lnb.lv
2 Central Market and some of the country’s best
wooden architecture, found in
Centrāltirgus
Āgenskalns district. 4 Botanical
Centrāltirgus 1. Open 8am–5pm daily.
^ ∑ centraltirgus.lv
Just across the Stone Bridge Gardens
(Akmens tilts) is the city’s Railway Botāniskais dārzs
Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļa
Housed in five Zeppelin hangars, muzejs), the highlight of which is Kandavas iela 2. Tel 6745 0852. v 5
Rīga’s Central Market is one of the collection of rolling stock in to Konsula iela. Open Apr–Jun: 9am–
7pm; Jul–Aug 10am–9pm; Sep–Mar:
the most distinctive in Europe. the yard outside. Exhibits housed
9am–4:30pm. & 8 in English,
The hangars, which the German inside a renovated engine
Russian or German by arrangement.
Kaiser’s army had abandoned in warehouse include photographs 7 ∑ botanika.lu.lv
Kurzeme during World War I, were of Latvian stations, old tickets and
moved to their current site during posters, railway staff uniforms Founded in 1922 as part of the
the 1920s. The market building and signalling equipment. University of Latvia, the Botanical
sells mostly fresh food, while the Close by is Victory Park Gardens have been in their
area around it is crammed with (Uzvaras parks), named for current location since 1926. The
stalls selling other goods. the Red Army’s victory over site includes 5,400 species of
the Nazis, which was depicted plants, with approximately 400
by the Soviet regime as a of them native to Latvia; many
3 Left Bank “liberation” of the city. The war of them are rare or endangered.
Pārdaugava memorial depicting soldiers In the centre of the garden is a
being greeted by a welcoming complex of five greenhouses,
@ A8, T9. v 2, 4, 5, 10. figure of Victory is controversial including a palm house, a
and Latvian nationalists have large collection of ferns, and a
Although most sites of interest twice tried to blow it up. greenhouse devoted to cacti and
lie on the right bank of the The massive Castle of Light other succulents. The gardens
Daugava river, the Left Bank (Gaismas pils), designed by are particularly attractive from
includes specialist museums Latvian-American architect spring through to summer.
5 Aviation Museum
Aviācijas muzejs
Rīga Airport. Tel 2686 2707.
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun
by arrangement. & 8 - =
∑ aviamuseum.org
tortoises in June, and Wolves’ districts as well as soil from every 9 Biķernieki Forest
Day in September. pagasts (parish). Biķernieku mežs
Close to the zoo is the Song The Rainis Cemetery (Raiņa
@ A16, T14.
Stadium (Mežaparka estrāde), kapi) existed before the writer
which was built to host the and atheist Janis Pliekšāns,
National Song Festival, held known as Rainis, was buried This site was chosen by the
every five years. With the finale there in 1929, but it was Nazis for the execution and
including more than 10,000 renamed in his honour. His burial of around 40,000 Jews
singers on stage at one time, memorial allegorically depicts a and other “undesirables” brought
the stadium is built on a very youthful Latvia awakening from from Germany and several
large scale. its slumber. Rainis’s wife Elza occupied European countries
Rozenberga, who wrote under between 1941 and 1944. The
O Rīga Zoo the name Aspazija, lies beside memorial is the most moving of
Meža prospekts 1. Tel 6751 8409. him, and many other those in the Rīga area. A path
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Latvian artists and leads from Biķernieku Street
Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. & 8 musicians have also been under a white concrete
∑ rigazoo.lv buried here. arch, revealing a field of
The Woodlands jagged stones huddled
Cemetery (Meža kapi) together into sections,
8 Rīga’s Cemeteries opened in 1913 and is the each representing a city
Aizsaules iela. @ A9. v 11.
burial place for many from which Jews were
Open daily. political figures from deported. The centre-
Latvia’s first period of piece is a concrete
Rīga’s three most interesting independence. It was canopy under which a
cemeteries are located just south intended that the main black stone stands,
of Mežaparks along Aizsaules alley would lead with an inscription
Street. The grandest is the straight to the Mother Latvia statue, reading “O earth,
Brothers’ Cemetery (Brāļu kapi), memorial to Latvia’s first Brothers’ Cemetery cover not thou my
built for Latvians who died president, Janis Čakste blood, and let my cry
defending their country during (1859–1927), but during the have no place” (Job 16:18).
World War I and the War of Soviet era smaller gravestones Further smaller memorials
Independence. The best-known were put in the way. Janis nearby mark mass graves. The
sculptures are three patriotic Rozentāls (see p26) was also laid site can be reached on foot
works by Kārlis Zāle: Two Brothers, to rest at the site, while the most from the Motor Museum (see
The Wounded Horseman and famous sculpture is the Grieving p162) although the route is not
Mother Latvia. The memorial Mother, which marks the signposted; the trolleybus stop
features the 19 coats of arms of suspicious death of the nation’s is about 1 km (half a mile) from
the Latvian administrative foreign minister in 1925. the memorial.
q Salaspils
15 km (9 miles) SE of central Rīga.
£ Dārziņi. ∑ salaspils.lv
. Kurzeme Peasants’
Homestead
This wooden building with a
reed-thatched roof is typical of
19th-century rural architecture
in southwest Kurzeme.
Zemgale Peasants’
Homestead
includes a dwelling-
house, a bath-house,
granaries and a
threshing barn.
Handicrafts
Handicraft displays
include traditional
wickerwork.
Kurzeme
Fishermen’s
Village
Entrance
. Usma Church
Most wooden
churches were Old Believers’ House
replaced by stone Located in a Latgale village, the
buildings in the 19th house exhibits a loom for
century, making this a weaving thread and a samovar
rare survivor. used to boil water for tea.
E KS PO RTA
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L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 167
WESTERN LATVIA
Known for its dense forests and fertile plains, lively cities and
sleepy rural towns, Western Latvia enchants visitors with its
contrasts. The Kurzeme region is quiet and sparsely populated,
with the major exceptions of the busy ports of Ventspils and
Liepāja. Running along the Lithuanian border, the largely
agricultural Zemgale region is dotted with castles and manor
houses recalling past glories.
Prior to the arrival of the German crusaders, (r.1642–81). The Duchy was incorporated
the heavily forested western region now into the Russian Empire in 1795, and its
called Kurzeme was dominated by the fate was thereafter tied up with that of the
Kurši tribe, while the Livs inhabited its rest of what is now Latvia.
northern coast. The fertile and well- Today, most of Kurzeme retains its rural
drained terrain running along the Lielupe character, although the cities of Liepāja
river in the south was home to the and Ventspils are among the largest and
Zemgaļi; together with an eastern region most vibrant in the country. The few
formerly called Selonia, this area is now remaining speakers of the Liv language
known as Zemgale. The Kurzeme tribes continue their fishing traditions on the
were defeated in 1267 and just over two northern coast. The area has several pictur-
decades later the same fate befell the esque small towns, including Kuldiga and
Zemgaļi – the last of the Latvian tribes Talsi. The Zemgale countryside consists
to surrender. mainly of flat farmland, with exceptions
When the Livonian Order collapsed in such as forest parks in the hills around
the 16th century its last master, Gotthard Tērvete. Jelgava’s Old Town was
Kettler, retained control of the entire devastated during World War II, although
region as a largely independent fiefdom of the duke’s palace is still standing. The most
Poland. With Jelgava as its capital, the popular tourist attraction, however, is
Duchy of Courland and Semigallia reached Rundāle Palace with its Baroque exterior
its zenith under Duke Jakob Kettler and restored Rococo interior.
Blāzma
VENTSPILS
Ste
nd
e
Vārve Ugāle
0 kilometres 20
Lībciems
0 miles 20
Ušava Spāre
Ozoli
Towns and Cities Ēdole
R ie ž u p e
1 Jelgava
KULDĪGA
4 Bauska Alsunga Krogsētas
7 Dobele Vārme
Rīva
9 Ķemeri Birži
0 Tukums PĀVILOSTA Snēpele Šķēde
Saka
e Dundaga
Te b ra Aprīķi
t Ventspils pp180–81 Ķikuri Druva
u Tals
Du
me
be
Aizpute Kazdanga
r
i Sabile
rze
Ziemupe
p Saldus
Cīrava
Ku Skrunda
a Kuldīga Vērgale
Saraiķi
d Liepāja pp184–5 Kalvene
Durbe
Ve n
Grobiņa Pampāļi
2 Mežotne Palace Tadaiķi Embūte
3 Rundāle Palace pp172–3 LIEPĀJA
Dubeņi Zaņa
5 Skaistkalne Roman Catholic
Lake Liepāja Priekule Vaiņode
Church
Pērkone
8 Jaunpils Castle
Rude Gramzda
y VIRAC
o Pedvāle Open-Air Museum Klampjuciems Bārta Bārta
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4
W E S T E R N L AT V I A 169
Ģipka
Roja
Kaltene
Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
Bērzciems
Valdgale Krievragciems
Ruins of the 15th-century Bauska Castle, perched on a grassy mound
LAKE
TALSI ENGURE
Nurmuiža Engure
Dižstende
Cēre Apšuciems
Sēme
SABILE JŪRMALA
Kandava
Rīga Jēkabpils
Lake
PEDVĀLE TUKUMS Sloka Babites
OPEN-AIR
MUSEUM ĶEMERI
Sāti Baloži
Vāne Slampe Tīreļi Ķekava
Ab
Vaski
av
kste Kalnciems
a
Zante Mi
Džū sa
Olaine
Džūkste
Viesati Jaunbērze Zem Stūri
JAUNPILS gal
a
Klāvi
at
s
Vi e CASTLE e
Pilsblīdene Annenieki JELGAVA Garoza
Svēte Iecava Stelpe
SALDUS Upenieki DOBELE
Vircava
Emburga
Svete
Ie
L ie
va
a
ca
Sesav
lu p
TĒRVETE
Puijas Skares NATURE Tērvete
MEŽOTNE SKAISTKALNE
PARK Eleja PALACE ROMAN
Kursīši Auce Bēne CATHOLIC
te
BAUSKA
ve
CHURCH
RUNDĀLE
r
Tē
Grīvaši Augstkalne
Bukaiši PALACE Kamārde
Ruba Ukri Šiauliai
Panevėžys
Getting Around
To explore Western Latvia’s remote towns and villages, it is
generally best to travel by car. By contrast, it is also possible to visit
the region’s many other attractions by using public transport.
While buses are a good option for reaching Bauska and most
of Kurzeme’s sights, taking a train is preferable for trips to Jelgava
and Tukums. However, as there are no direct routes between Rīga
and Rundāle, visitors will need to travel to Bauska and take an
onward bus from there. The port towns of Ventspils and Liepāja
have good ferry connections with Rīga as well as with other
European cities. There are also airports at Liepāja and Ventspils.
For keys to symbols see back flap
170 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
the property of the Duchy of artificial marble palisades and E Anna Brigadere Museum
Courland and Semigallia and a an ornate altarpiece. Plump, Sprīdīši. Tel 2653 2691. Open May–
fortified residence was added pastel-coloured cherubs Oct: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
for the duke. Restoration work decorate the pulpit and organ, E Tērvete History Museum
has reversed inauthentic Soviet and two sets of paintings Lielķēniņi. Tel 2695 0975. Open May–
alterations, including the represent the Stations of the Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
renewal of the original sgraffito Cross. Call ahead, as the church
decoration on the towers. is often locked.
It is possible to climb one of 7 Dobele
the towers for a small fee,
and tours of the castle are 6 Tērvete Nature Road Map C4. * 11,100. £ @
n Baznicas iela 6, 6372 3074.
illuminating. Park ∑ dobele.lv
Besides a number of fine Tērvetes dabas parks
wooden buildings, the town Situated on the banks of the
Road Map C4. @ n Tērvetes Sils,
also boasts a 16th-century 6372 6212. Open 9am–7pm daily
Bērze river, Dobele is visited
Lutheran church and the (Nov–Feb: to 5pm). & mainly for its ruined Livonian
riverside Bauskas Alus brewery. - = 7 partial. Order castle, built in 1335.
∑ tervetesparks.lv Destroyed several times dur-
+ Bauska Castle ing the Polish-Swedish
Tel 6392 2280. Open May–Sep: This popular nature Wars (1600–29), the
9am–7pm daily; Oct: 9am–6pm daily; park was developed in castle began to be
Nov–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & the forest around restored only in 2002. The
∑ bauskaspils.lv Tērvete, which was small Dobele History
Bauskas Alus famous as the home of Museum recounts the
Tel 2945 1942. Open by appointment. Sprīdītis, a Tom Thumb- town’s history and
8 ∑ bauskasalus.lv like character in the mounts temporary
beloved fairytale by exhibitions. On the
Anna Brigadere edge of town, the
(1861–1933). Her Wooden figure, Dobele Horticultural
summer house has Tērvete Nature Park Plant Breeding
been preserved as Experimental Station
the Anna Brigadere Museum. houses a museum dedicated to
The theme of the fairytale noted horticulturalist Pēteris
is evident throughout the Upītis (1896–1976). One of the
park, with its Dwarf Forest largest lilac collections in the
and Fairytale Forest dotted world can also be found here.
with carved wooden creatures. Classical music concerts are held
Summertime attractions in the gardens every spring,
include the park’s own witch, while the flowers are in bloom.
and there are quieter paths
through the Old Pine Forest. Environs
Nearby are a Livonian Order A drive of 13 km (8 miles)
castle mound with an impos- down a gravel road west of
Embellished altarpiece, Skaistkalne Roman ing replica fort and the Tērvete town, the Pokaiņi Forest is an
Catholic Church History Museum, which area of spiritual significance
displays a collection of farm due to its numerous unusual
5 Skaistkalne utensils and textiles. rock formations.
Roman Catholic
Church
Skaistkalnes Romas katoļu baznīca
Road Map D4. Slimnīcas iela 2,
Skaistkalne. Tel 6393 3154. 8
3 Rundāle Palace
Designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700–71),
Rundāle is one of the finest palaces in the Baltic region. Work
began in 1736 on a Baroque summer residence for Ernst
Johann Biron, but was left unfinished when he was exiled.
Following Biron’s return, the interiors were renovated in the
Rococo style. Biron’s son removed most of the furnishings
when he left in 1795, after Courland was annexed by Russia.
The structure suffered damage during the 20th century, and
the rooms have served as an elementary school and a
granary. Restoration began in 1972 and is still in progress.
Detail, Rose Room
Rococo touches, such as fake
marble, silver detailing and floral
motifs, adorn the room.
. Duke’s Bedroom
This room was the focal point of
Biron’s private apartments, which
occupied the central
block of the palace.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ernst Johann Biron
The son of a minor landlord, Ernst Practical Information
Johann Biron was asked to leave the Road Map D4. Tel 6396 2274.
academy in Königsberg (present- Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
day Kaliningrad) for bad behaviour. Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
Failing to establish himself in the 8 0 ∑ rundale.net Park:
Russian court, he returned to Open Jun–Sep: 10am–7pm daily
Jelgava and became close to the (to 9pm Fri–Sun); May & Oct: 10am
widowed Duchess of Courland, –6pm; Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily.
Anna Ivanovna. In 1730, Anna
Transport
became empress of Russia,
@ from Bauska.
and three years later Biron was
appointed Duke of Courland. Duke of Courland, Ernst Johann Biron
After his patron died in 1740, the (1690–1772)
unpopular Biron was sent into exile,
returning only in 1763. A year later, Catherine II made him duke
once more, but he abdicated in 1769 in favour of his son Peter.
Duchess’s Boudoir
The duchess could rest and receive visitors
during the day in the splendidly decorated
boudoir, which has now been restored.
The duchess and other family members
lived in the western wing.
KEY
8 Jaunpils Castle
Jaunpils pils
Road Map C4. Tel 6310 7082.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & -
∑ jaunpilspils.lv
q Jūrmala
Literally meaning “seaside” in Latvian, Jūrmala is an attractive
stretch of beaches, pine forests and small towns alongside
the Gulf of Rīga. During the 19th century, the area became
famous for its medicinal mud and sulphur-rich spring water.
Jūrmala soon grew into a popular resort and it became
fashionable to own a summerhouse here. The wooden houses
as well as older sanitaria still dot the area, standing alongside
modern guesthouses and upmarket spas.
Jomas Street in Majori is a
pedestrianized strip that forms the
Jūrmala heart of Jūrmala. It is lined with a
Area of Lielupe large number of outdoor cafés,
G u l f o f Rī ga main map
Dubulti restaurants and hotels, as well as
Majori a variety of shops.
Kaugari
Vaivari Jaundubulti Gulf of
Sloka Rīga
Marienbāde
Sanitarium was Majori
built in 1870. Beach
IELA
AS
JŨR
A
IEL
JŪRMALA AS
A PROSPE JOM
VIC KTS MAJORI
Aspazija House was IER
O
E
the last home of one of Z M Lielupe
Latvia’s most famous
poets, Elza Rozenberga D U B U LT I
(1865–1943), DUB
U LT U
TS
nicknamed PRO
SPEK
“Aspazija”. The
S LO K A
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4
W E S T E R N L AT V I A 175
LA
S IE
RĪGA
E Sea-Fishing Museum
Selgas iela 33. Tel 6326 9594. Open
Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–
May: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
e Dundaga
Road Map C3. * 4,000. @
Reed-filled part of Lake Engure, with boats moored along the shore n Pils iela 14, 6323 2293.
∑ visit.dundaga.lv
w Lake Engure Ornithological Centre, running
Engures ezers through dry pine forest and a First recorded in 1245, Dundaga
chalky grass swamp in which 22 has a restored 13th-century
Road Map C3. 8 for boating:
Abragciems Kempings, 4 km (2 miles)
species of orchid can be found. Livonian Order castle that today
N of Engure, 6316 1668; for fishing Many parts of the lake houses the tourist office.
permits: Ornithological Centre, are choked with reeds The coats of arms of the
Bērzciems, 6947 4420 (open by as a result of pollution last owners decorate
appointment only). ∑ eedp.lv by chemical fertilizers, the tower over the
and a number of fish entrance to the
Latvia’s third-largest lake, Engure species have disap- northwestern section.
is a significant bird habitat. peared, although The Lutheran church
Around 160 species have been fishing permits can nearby has an
spotted in the wetlands, still be obtained at altarpiece by Janis
including cranes and grey the centre. Coat of arms at the Rozentāls (1866–
herons. A road leads around castle, Dundaga 1916). The church’s
the western edge of the lake, Environs 19th-century wooden
between the towns Mērsrags The small fishing port of Roja, organ case is unusual, as it is the
and Engure, while the 26 km (16 miles) northwest work of Latvian craftsmen who
Ornithological Centre on the of Mērsrags, offers more generally produced functional
eastern side of the lake can be accommodation options than items while foreign masters
reached by turning inland just most places on the coastal made decorative pieces.
north of Bērzciems. One bird- route from Rīga to Ventspils. Dundaga features a large,
watching tower is situated close Exhibits in the town’s bizarre sculpture of a crocodile
to the centre, while another is Sea-Fishing Museum (Rojas at the corner of Talsu and
directly opposite it across the jūras zvejniecības muzejs) look Dinsberga streets, honouring
lake. A 3.5-km (2-mile) orchid at the naval schools of Krišjānis local crocodile hunter Arvīds
trail starts close to the Valdemārs (see p195), sailing Blūmentāls (1925–2006). He
emigrated to Australia during
World War II and is said to have
The Coast-Dwelling Livs been the inspiration for the film
A Finnic people related to the Estonians, the Livs settled along the Crocodile Dundee (1986).
Gulf of Rīga around 5,000 years ago, long before the arrival of
the Latvian tribes. They referred to themselves as raandalist (coast-
dwellers) and kalāmīed (fishermen), and the sea has always been
central to their way of life. German
crusaders devastated Livonian culture
in the 13th century and the Livs were
gradually assimilated into the other
Baltic tribes. During the 19th and 20th
centuries, children were educated in
German and later Russian rather than
in Livonian. Many of the remaining Livs
were forced to leave the region when
the Soviets declared the coast a military
zone. Since 1991 there have been
concerted efforts to preserve and
strengthen Liv culture. Today, not
Monument to Livonian Culture more than 200 people are officially
in Mazirbe registered as Livs. Large concrete crocodile sculpture on a bed
of stones in Dundaga
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4
W E S T E R N L AT V I A 177
2 Cape Kolka
The point at which the
Baltic Sea meets
the Gulf of Rīga is
a popular place for
Latvian holidaymakers.
Cape Kolka
3 Vaide
The Museum of Horns is the main 1 Pūrciems White Dune
highlight of Vaide. It showcases the A walkway leads across the
personal collection of a forest Uši dune, while signboards indi
Vaide
warden, formed over decades. cate a Neolithic settlement.
Melnsils
Pitrags
Park
su
Mazirbe Vidale
Pil
Sīkrags
4 Košrags Slītere Muņi
The typical coastal village
of Košrags is dotted with Jaunciems Kalķi
18thcentury wooden
Neveja
buildings, including a
small B&B.
0 km 7
0 miles 7
For keys to symbols see back flap Jelgava Palace, the former island winter residence of Ernst Johann Biron
180 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Exterior of the 13th-century Livonian Order castle, Ventspils Castle R Russian Orthodox Church
of St Nicholas
E Ventspils Castle 14th century. Devastated by Plosta iela 10. Tel 6362 1616.
Jāņa iela 17. Tel 6362 2031. Open the Swedish army in 1659, the The onion-domed Russian
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 0 castle has been restored many Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
∑ muzejs.ventspils.lv times since. Parts of the red- (Sv Nikolaja pareizticīgo baz-
On the bank of the Venta river, brick gallery in the inner court- nīca) was consecrated in the
this Livonian Order castle is one yard were built as recently as early 20th century. Although the
of the finest in Latvia. Although the 1870s. Neo-Byzantine exterior needs to
it began life as a late 13th- The museum inside the castle be restored, the interior has an
century stone tower, its current recounts its history through excellent collection of icons.
form largely dates from the engaging displays and touch
ta
Ve n
JĀ Ņ A
Ventspils A
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Beach S
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Ve n t OS
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KAR LĨV
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SAU
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A
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Aqua Park A
IE L A
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Seaside Open-Air NI
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RI TA LA 500
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Jēkabs A
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Russian Orthodox Jacuzzis and saunas as well as a The unmarked road to VIRAC,
Church of
St Nicholas
variety of water playgrounds, the leading past eerily empty
TIRGUS
I EL A
P ILS with families. Swimming gear east of an electrical substation
Lutheran Church
of St Nicholas can be rented on site. on the P124. Book in advance
for a guided tour.
L Ventspils Beach
IE L A
AS 2 km (1 mile) S of town. 7
B R ĨV ĨB A S I E LA
L DĨG Bus
KU Station
The residents of Ventspils are
LA
RAIŅA
IELA
U
SA
RK
larly the 1.2-km (0.7-mile)
DA ANM
A L E K SA ND R A
Environs
The Riežupe Sand Caves
(Riežupes smilšu alas), 4 km
(2 miles) north of Kuldīga, form
the longest cave system in
Latvia. A quarter of the 2-km
(1-mile) site is open to visitors.
s Pāvilosta
Rows of crosses marking the graves of German soldiers, near Saldus
Road Map B4. * 3,000. n Dzintaru
p Saldus capitalize on the river and a land iela 2, 6349 8229. _ Sea Festival (Jul).
a Kuldīga
Road Map B3. * 14,000. @ n
Baznīcas iela 5, 6332 2259. _ Town
Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ visit.kuldiga.lv
d Liepāja
Although Liepāja was officially declared a town in 1625, it
expanded only in the early 19th century. The deepening of
the ice-free port and the building of a railway link were
followed, in 1890, by the foundation of a Tsarist naval port at
Karosta. Today, Liepāja is Latvia’s third-largest city and it has a
vibrant cultural life. It is dotted with many interesting sights,
most of which are located in its historic core. Many of the
city’s older buildings have been extensively restored. Beautifully carved Baroque altar of
St Anne’s Basilica
R Holy Trinity Church adorned with gilt detailing and R St Anne’s Basilica
Lielā iela 9. Tel 6342 2208. woodcarvings. The centrepiece Veidenbauma iela 1. Tel 6342 2208.
Open 10am– 6pm daily. & is an organ built in 1773 by First documented in 1508, the
donations. Organ recital: Jul: Sat H A Contius, a favourite organ current Neo-Gothic St Anne’s
(call for timings). builder of composer J S Bach. Basilica (Sv Annas baznīca) dates
The modest exterior of the Expanded in 1885, it was the only from the end of the 19th
mid-18th-century Holy Trinity world’s largest organ until 1912. century. The plain interior is
(Svētās Trīsvienības baznīca) Wooden steps lead up the dominated by the huge Baroque
belies one of the finest church clock tower for views. altar, carved for Duke Jakob
interiors in the Baltic region, Kettler (see p139) in 1697 by
House of Craftsmen Nicolas Sefrens. The altar painting
Dārza iela 4–8. Tel 2654 1424. depicts the Passion of Christ in
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. = three panels, with the Crucifixion
With a wide variety of fine at the bottom, the wrapping of
handicrafts on sale, the House his body in the centre and the
of Craftsmen (Amatnieku Ascension at the top.
namiņš) is a place where
one can watch skilled artisans E Occupation Museum
as they weave traditional K Ukstiņa iela 7/9. Tel 6342 0274.
textiles. The world’s longest Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. ^
amber necklace, 123 m (404 ft) The interesting Occupation
long and weighing 60 kg Museum (Okupāciju režīmos)
(132 lb), is also on display, offers an absorbing account of
Details on the exterior of Holy along with photographs the city’s treatment at the hands
Trinity Church documenting its creation. of Nazi Germany and the Soviet
Liepāja Airport
Liepāja LA I VI N I E KU 8 km (5 miles)
KRU
KUGINIEKU
S A U LE S
800 m (875 yards)
LT
Bus Station
AS
EK
SPO R T A
Museum
KTS
3 St Anne’s Basilica Liepāja JAS PR
OSPE
Beach KŨRMÃ
A
4 Occupation
KĻ
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SE
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Museum
HI
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ŪLIH
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Holy Trinity
5 St Joseph’s I E LA
Church
IE
LA
V ĪT OLU GR
A IE L A
A
LA
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Cathedral
IE
BAZ
TOMA
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L D E MĀ R
STE N D E RA
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6 Liepāja Museum A
LIE
ZIV J U IELA
VA
P U RA
A P UM
ŅA
VIT
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LUD VI ĶA
ES
IEL A
KRI
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A
PELD KUN
U IE L A GU
IELA
PELDU
Alexander IELA House of
TO MA I EL A
Nevsky Craftsmen
Seaside Church St Joseph’s
Park Cathedral R A K S TV
ŪLIH
A L EJ A S
LIE P U
EŽ
IELA
U
IELA
DZ IN TA
R OŽ U I ELA
KRI Š JĀ Ņ A
A
LA
I E LA
K U RŠ U
IŅU
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St Anne’s
MU
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BĀR
Basilica
PAL
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0 yards 250
EASTERN LATVIA
The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as
rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
the terrain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two
extensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of
these have well-developed tourist facilities, while others
remain isolated and untouched.
When the German crusaders arrived, best-known writers and musicians. Today
they found the Livs and Lettgallians Vidzeme is second only to Rīga as a
inhabiting the region which now forms travel destination, with the Gauja
Vidzeme, while Latgallians and Selians National Park combining natural beauty
lived further east in what is now Latgale. and historical attractions.
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled
west and east of Vidzeme, while central by Poland until 1772. The Polish
Vidzeme and most of Latgale was influence fostered a strong Catholic
claimed by the Livonian Order. After the tradition, particularly evident in the
collapse of the Livonian Order in 1561 pilgrimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was
the whole of the east fell under later absorbed directly into the Russian
Lithuanian, and later Polish, rule. Empire, unlike other Latvian regions
The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in which were ruled as separate provinces.
1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia This isolation from the rest of the country
and Vidzeme. The Russians conquered means that it has long been neglected
Vidzeme in 1721. Reliant economically as a predominantly Russian backwater.
on agriculture, forestry and wood Despite this, its villages and serene lakes
processing, the region is sometimes charm visitors and the regional capital,
claimed as the cradle of Latvian culture Daugavpils, is slowly shaking off its
as it produced many of the country’s image as a grey Soviet throwback.
l
Burtnieks Rencēni
Sa
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its
SALACGRĪVA
me
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and Vilzēni
Drieliņi e
dz
Lubāns, the two largest in the country.
i
V VALMIERA
AL
Towns, Resorts and Villages
a Ludza
N
2 Valmiera DUNTE
O
s Vecpiebalga Vidriži
RK I
3 Ainaži Cēsis
A AT
d Alūksne Skulte
4 Salacgrīva
N
Inciems
5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI JA P
U
6 Limbaži 9 Ikšķile GA
7 Dunte w Koknese ja
Gauja G au Sigulda
8 Saulkrasti f Gulbene–Alūksne Vangaži
0 Lielvārde Nītaure
Railway
q Skrīveri Ķīšezers
Ropaži Mergupe Mālpils
e Jēkabpils National Park
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga
Ķeipene
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93
y Krāslava
Tour Ogre
u Aglona IKŠĶILE
i Preiļi p Latgale Lakes p202 Dau
LIELVĀRDE
gav
a
SKRĪVERI
Taurkaene
Viesīte
Ērberğe
Key
Motorway
Main road
Secondary road
Minor road
Railway
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5
E A S T E R N L AT V I A 189
Getting Around
The highlights of Gauja National Park are easily reached
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
that run several times a day. The public transport
network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
towns, but services are not very frequent.
Pe Tartu
d ele
Valka
Pskov
da
Turna S e
Zabolova
Vijciems
G a uja Lāzbergi
Gaujiena
Abul
Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
s
Vireši Liepna
Smiltene G
sa
l
au
Pa Jaunanna Kuprava
ja
Mālumuiža
GULBENE– Viļaka
ALŪKSNE
Ūdrupe RAILWAY Kubuli Balvi
Rauna
Gulbene
ze
pe
Peded
Čilipīne
Balu
a
uj Tirza Medņi
Taurene Ga
Baltinava
Ostrov
Lautere
Iča
Lī
ču
Žogotas
Lubāns
Irši Lake
kne
a
Cirma
L AT G
Lake Istalsna
Odzes
st e LUDZA
iek Grozas
Ai
v Viļāni RĒZEKNE Ņukši
Brigi
KOKNESE
AL
Atašiene
Kūkas
E
Troškas Čornaja
LA
Riebiņi S Rāzna
Lake
E
Da
Piksteres Birži ug
av
tg Čerņavski
a LĪVĀNI PREIĻI a Puša Lake
le Ežezers
Du
Jersika
Slate Kapiņi Dagda
AGLONA
Nereta Aknīste
Špoği Asūne
Kalupe
Dviete
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
Silene
Demene
Utena
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
Lielstraupe
Inčiems
. Turaida Museum Reserve
The extensively restored Turaida Castle houses historical exhibitions,
while the grounds include outbuildings and a sculpture park.
ja
Gau
Turaida
Sigulda
Ragana
0 miles 5
Key
Bobsleigh Run
Sigulda offers a rare
Major road chance to experience
Minor road the thrill of a world-class
Other road
bobsleigh run at a
reasonable price. In
Railway line summer, a slower,
Park boundary wheeled vehicle is used.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp324–5
E A S T E R N L AT V I A 191
. Līgatne
Education and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Recreation Centre
Practical Information
Inside the park,
Road Map D3. n Gauja
footpaths and tracks
National Park Visitors’ Centre,
for vehicles wind
Turaidas iela 2a, Sigulda, 2665
past spacious
7661. 8 guided canoe trips
enclosures housing
organized by Campo in Rīga (2922
animals, including
2339), Makars in Sigulda (2924
elk, brown bears and
4948). ∑ entergauja.com
European bison.
Transport
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
Cēsis
Raiskums
Cīrulīši
Lake
Āraiši
Drabeši
Kārļi
Am
. Cēsis
at
Skaļupe
Gaujasmala Zvārte Rock crusaders, Cēsis is a romantic town
with a lakeside park.
leriķi
Līgatne
Līgatn
e
Augšligatne
Zvārte Rock, a
35-m (115-ft) high Lake Āraiši
sandstone outcrop, boasts Archaeologists found the remains of a fortress on the lake bed
excellent views. It is locally here. This reconstruction of it offers a glimpse into Latgallian
believed to be a haunt of life in the 9th and 10th centuries.
witches and demons.
witnessed extremely fierce Lake Āraiši, now reconstructed Y Līgatne Education and
fighting during the War of as a tourist sight. A wooden Recreation Centre
Independence (1918–20). platform holds 16 single-room 15 km (9 miles) NE of Sigulda. @ from
The Cēsis Castle complex is the dwellings with log walls and bark Cēsis. Tel 6415 3313. Open May–Sep:
town’s major attraction. Visitors roofs. Each of them could 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat &
are given builders’ accommodate three Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
helmets and lanterns for to eight people. A clay ∑ visitligatne.lv
the tour of the 15th- to stove was used for A wooded nature park, Līgatne
16th-century towers of heating and cooking, Education and Recreation Park
the 13th-century Old while a small structure (Līgatnes mācību un atpūtas
Castle. The pink New to the right of each parks) is home to the likes of
Castle, built in 1777, is doorway was used brown bears, lynx, beavers, elk
home to the Museum for storage or to and European bison. Large
of Art and History keep cattle. enclosures are connected by
(Cēsu vēstures un Sign, Līgatne Education Today, guides in 5.5 km (3.4 miles) of walking
mākslas muzejs). The and Recreation Centre costume re-create the trails and a 5-km (3-mile) route
highlight is the well- atmosphere of the for vehicles. The site includes
presented “Treasures of Cēsis” settlement, and a dugout boat a 22-m (72-ft) viewing tower,
exhibition. Cēsis Exhibition House can be hired. Back on shore is a horse-riding facilities, spots
(Cēsu izstāžu nams), a renovated ruined Livonian Order castle and for campfires and several car
18th-century coach house, several reconstructed Stone, parks. Dogs are not allowed
stands on the square in front of Bronze and Iron Age dwellings. on the trails.
the New Castle. To the north, the
Castle Park is a popular place to
relax in the summer, while the The Latvian Flag
Old Town is to the southeast of According to tradition, the Latvian
the castle. national flag was born in Cēsis around
Other attractions include the 1280. The story goes that warriors from
19th-century Cēsis Brewery, one of the Latvian tribes wrapped their
although the beer is now brewed dying chieftain in a white flag, which
outside the town. they had captured from their Estonian
enemies. After giving a stirring speech,
+ Āraiši Lake Fortress the chieftain died and the warriors
10 km (6 miles) S of Cēsis. Tel 6410
removed the flag from his body to find
7080. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
that his blood had left two red stripes
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & 8
on it; the white stripe in the middle was
where he had lain. The warriors took the
Tales of sunken castles are new flag into battle and defeated their
common in Latvian folklore, enemies. The present-day version of the
appearing to stem from the flag was designed by artist Ansis Cīrulis
9th- to 10th-century Latgallian in May 1917. The Museum of Art and
practice of building settlements History in Cēsis has an exhibition Latvian flag hoisted on the New
on islets. In 1965, archaeologists dedicated to the Latvian flag. Castle, Sigulda
found one such settlement in
194 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Environs
On the banks of the Svētupe
river, 10 km (6 miles) east of
town, are the Liv Sacrificial
Caves (Lībiešu upurala). Coins
and artifacts dating from the
14th to the 19th centuries have
been found here, and there are
runes carved into the walls.
The Randu Meadows (Randu
pļavas), about 8 km (5 miles)
north of Salacgrīva, are rich in
Nautical objects displayed in the garden of the Naval College Museum, Ainaži birdlife and rare plants.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5
E A S T E R N L AT V I A 195
5 Mazsalaca
Road Map D2. * 1,200. @ from
Rīga. n Rūjienas iela 1, 2837 4774.
∑ mazsalaca.lv
E Mazsalaca Regional Museum The Orthodox Church in Limbaži, dating back to the early 20th century
Rīgas iela 1. Tel 6425 1781.
Open May–Oct: 11am–4pm Wed– Limbaži’s stone castle, built display of artifacts that recount
Sun; Nov–Apr: 11am–4pm Tue–Thu. by the Brotherhood of the the region’s history. Close by is
Sword in 1223, served as the 1903 Orthodox Church,
the Archbishop of Rīga’s which still retains some of its
residence. A town grew up original splendour. A statue of
around the castle and formed Kārlis Baumanis, composer of
part of the Hanseatic League. the national anthem, stands in
The castle, now in ruins, was Jūras Street.
destroyed in the 1602 Polish-
Swedish War. E Museum of Regional Studies
Offering tours of the castle Burtnieku iela 7. Tel 6407 0632.
ruins is the Museum of Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sat;
Regional Studies (Limbažu Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
muzejs), with its fascinating 8 for castle. =
Carved wooden soldiers in the park leading
to Skaņaiskalns, Mazsalaca
Krišjānis Valdemārs
6 Limbaži One of the key figures of the Latvian National
Road Map D3. * 9,200.
Awakening, Krišjānis Valdemārs (1825–91) was
@ from Rīga. n Torņa iela 3, 6407
a writer, educationist, political thinker and
ideologist. During Valdemārs’s time the majority
0608. ∑ visitlimbazi.lv
of Latvian literary works were written by Baltic
Although it is one of Latvia’s Germans, and he sought to change this. From
oldest towns, Limbaži has 1862 until its suppression in 1865, Valdemārs
edited a Latvian-language publication, Pēterburgas
retained little of its prosperous
Avīzes, alongside Krišjānis Barons and poet Juris
past. The area, which was Alunāns, which criticized the Baltic German sense
known during the 13th of cultural superiority. He encouraged Barons and
century as Metsepole (Indriķis Fricis Brīvzemnieks to start a Latvian folk songs
in Latvian), was one of three collection (see pp28–9), and was instrumental
Liv territories mentioned in the in establishing the Ainaži Naval College, where Valdemārs’s bust,
early 13th-century chronicle tuition was free and not dependent on social status. Naval Museum
written by Henry of Livonia.
196 L AT V I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
House set amid idyllic scenery reflected in one of the many clear-water lakes near Dunte
8 Saulkrasti
Road Map D3. * 5,550. £ from
Rīga. @ from Rīga. n Ainažu iela 13b,
6795 2641. _ Town Festival (Jul),
International Jazz Festival (Jul), Organ
Music Festival (Aug). ∑ saulkrasti.lv
q Skrīveri
Road Map D4. * 4,000. £ from
Rīga. n A.Upīša iela 1, 2837 3530.
∑ skriveri.lv
E Glass Museum
Domes 1b. Tel 6538 1855. Open Jun–
Neo-Byzantine St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church in Jēkabpils Aug: Tue–Sun; Sep–May: Tue–Sat. &
= ∑ latgalesamatnieki.lv
e Jēkabpils and one of them displays E Latgale Art and Craft Centre
Russian military memorabilia. Domes 1. Tel 6538 1855.
Road Map D4. * 28,000.
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga,
Open Tue–Sat. & 7 =
R St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church
Daugavpils. n Brīvības iela 140/142,
Brīvības iela 202. Tel 6522 3886.
6523 3822. ∑ jekabpils.lv
E Mans’s Gallery t Daugavpils
Founded as a settlement for Old Brīvības iela 154. Tel 6523 1953. Open See pp200–201.
Believers (see p126), Jēkabpils 9am–6pm Mon–Sat. ∑ manss.lv
received town rights from Jakob
E Selian Farmstead
Kettler, Duke of Courland (see
Filozofu iela 6. Tel 6522 1042.
p139), in 1670.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,
y Krāslava
In the town centre, the Neo- 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & Road Map E4. * 11,500. @ from
Byzantine St Nicholas’s Ortho-
+ Krustpils Castle
Daugavpils. n Pils iela 2, 6562 2201.
dox Church (Sv Nikolaja ∑ visitkraslava.com
pareizticīgo baznīca) was built Rīgas iela 216b. Tel 6522 1042.
in 1910. Close by, the large Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, Attractively set alongside the
private Mans’s Gallery was one 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr: Daugava river, the town of
of the first to open in post- 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat Krāslava is largely composed of
& Sun. ∑ jekabpilsmuzejs.lv
Soviet Latvia. East of the centre, two-storey wooden buildings.
the Selian Farmstead (Sēļu Although there are few specific
sēta) is an open-air museum sights to draw visitors, it is a
with 19th-century buildings, r Līvāni pleasant place to visit.
including a farmhouse, a smithy Road Map E4. * 11,000. £ Standing on an artificial hill,
and a windmill. n Domes iela 1b, 6538 1856. the 1750 Baroque Krāslava Castle
On the opposite side of the _ Town Festival (Jul), International (Krāslavas pils) houses the
Daugava river lies the 13th-cen- Folk Festival (Sep). ∑ livani.lv Krāslava Museum, dedicated
tury Krustpils Castle (Krustpils to local arts and history. The
pils). Destroyed during the With a long history as an indus- Catholic Church (Katoļu baznīca)
Livonian Wars (1558–83), it was trial centre, Līvāni takes pride in stands on the town’s other hill. It
reconstructed in 1585 and mod- its glass factory, which opened is the finest of the Baroque build-
ified in 1849. Though the castle in 1887. The on-site Glass ings in Latgale. Its imposing
is largely dilapidated, several of Museum (Stikla muzejs) offers fresco, depicting St Ludovik leav-
its rooms have been restored, glass-blowing demonstrations. ing for the Crusades, was painted
Krāslava town, with rows of pretty houses along the Daugava river
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5
E A S T E R N L AT V I A 199
by the Italian artist Philippo of the family’s three manor hous the Latgale region and also
Kastaldi in the 18th century. es still stands but is in poor con serves as a good base for
dition. In the gatekeeper’s house, visiting the area’s lakes.
E Krāslava Museum the History and Applied Arts The bestknown sight is
Pils iela 8. Tel 6562 3586. Open Museum (Preiļu vēstures un Latgales Māra, a statue created
10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, lieņtišķ mākslas muzejs) has by Leons Tomašickis, which
10am–2pm Sun. & exhibits including old photo stands in the centre of a large
graphs of Preili and samples of roundabout on Atbrīvošanas
the pottery for which it is Avenue. The religious icono
renowned. More local ceramics graphy of the statue depicting
can be found – and bought – at the pagan goddess Māra
the P Čerņavskis Pottery holding aloft a Christian cross
Workshop-Museum may be ambiguous but the
(P Čerņavska keramikas darbnīca politics are not: the plinth
muzejs). The late 19th simply reads “Vienoti
century Roman Catholic Latvija” (“United for
Church (Romas katoļu Latvia”). Unveiled in
bazīca) contains an 18th 1939, it commemorates
century crucifix, and two the 1917 meeting in
sculptures stand out Rēzekne which decided
side; one is dedicated that Latgale would no
Dazzling exterior of the majestic to Mother Latvia and longer remain a part of
Aglona Basilica the other is a monument Russia’s Vitebsk province.
to the politically Jug, Latgale Culture and Removed by the
u Aglona repressed during the History Museum Russian authorities in
Soviet regime. 1940, the statue was
Road Map E4. @ from Rīga.
n Somersetas 34, 6532 2100. reinstated by the occupying
E History and Applied Arts German army. Destroyed in
_ Feast of the Assumption (15 Aug).
Museum 1950, the statue was rebuilt by
Catholic pilgrims from across Raiņa 28. Tel 6532 2731. Tomašickis’s son after Latvia
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri, gained its independence in
the Baltic region and Russia
10am–4pm Sat. &
flock to this otherwise unre 1991. The inauguration of the
markable town to visit Aglona E P Čerņavskis Pottery replica took place in 1992.
Basilica and attend the Feast Workshop-Museum Just north of the statue is
of the Assumption. Lithuanian Talsu iela 21. Tel 2942 9630. the Latgale Culture and
members of the Dominican Open by appointment. History Museum (Latgales
Order were invited by a local R Roman Catholic Church kultūrvēstures muzejs), which
landowner to build a monastery Tirgus laukums 11. Tel 6532 2041. focuses on the ceramics of the
and school in 1697. The basilica, Open by appointment. region, including traditional
then a church, was built in the branched candelabra. South of
18th century. Pope John Paul II the statue, on a small mound
declared it a basilica in 1980, o Rēzekne with excellent views of a
marking the 200th anniversary Road Map E4. * 37,000. £ from
Catholic church, are the ruins
of its completion, and visited Rīga. @ from Daugavpils. n Krasta of the city’s castle.
it in 1993. The basilica is famous iela 31, 6460 5005. ∑ rezekne.lv
for its early 17thcentury icon E Latgale Culture and
of the Virgin Mary, brought by Although most of its old History Museum
the Dominicans and said to buildings were destroyed Atbrīvošanas aleja 102. Tel 6462 2464.
have healing powers. It is during World War II, Rēzekne is Open May–Sep: Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr:
hidden behind a lesser icon, one of the cultural centres of Tue–Sat. &
which slides down only during
special services.
i Preiļi
Road Map E4. * 10,000. @ from
Rīga. n Kārsavas iela 4, 6532 2041.
∑ preili.lv
t Daugavpils u Synagogue
Cietokšņa 42. Tel 6542 0092.
The second-most populous city in Latvia, Daugavpils is often Open by appointment.
regarded as a “Russian city” as the majority of its residents are Prior to World War I, over half
Russian. Its history can be traced to 1275 and a Livonian Order of the town’s population was
Jewish. There were at one time
castle called Dinaburga. In the 16th century, a settlement
48 synagogues, of which only
grew on the banks of the Daugava river, and was occupied by one remains in use. It was
Poles, Russians and Swedes at various times. When the town renovated in 2006 with the
was developed into a Tsarist fortress in the early 19th century, help of Mark Rothko’s children,
civilians were relocated southeast to the land that today who had visited it in 2003, the
forms the city centre. An industrial hub for the erstwhile centenary of their father’s birth.
Soviet Union, Daugavpils has suffered from economic neglect R Cathedral of Sts Boris
since independence, though the city’s image is improving. and Glebe
Tautas iela 2. Tel 6545 3544.
This blue-and-white building,
resplendent with its ten golden
cupolas, is the largest Russian
Orthodox cathedral in the
country. Built in 1905, it is
named after the two saints on
whose feast day the Russian
army entered Daugavpils in
1656. The Russian name for the
town, Borisoglebsk, was also
taken from the saints’ names.
The icons and frescoes inside
were copied from those in
Sophia Cathedral in Kiev, Russia.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map E4. * 110,000.
n Rīgas 22a, 6542 2818.
∑ visitdaugavpils.lv
Transport
£ Rīgas iela. @ Viestura iela 10.
T Daugavpils Fortress
Cietokšņa iela. Tel 6542 4043. Open
24 hours. 8 Mark Rothko Art Centre:
Mihaila iela 3. Tel 6543 0279. Open
11am–5pm Tue & Sun, 11am–7pm
Wed–Sat. & ∑ rothkocenter.com
The construction of this walled
Russian fortress began in 1810
but was interrupted when
Napoleon’s army attacked in July
1812. The moat encircling it once
contained tunnels that con-
nected it to the Daugava river,
but they have since been
blocked. The fortress served as
a German concentration camp
and was later occupied by the
Soviet Army until 1993. The Mark
Rose-coloured façade of Church of the Birth of the Mother of God Rothko Art Centre, located in
the former arsenal building,
R Martin Luther Church R Virgin Mary Catholic provides space for exhibitions
18 Novembra iela 66. Tel 2957 4349. Church and displays original works
Open Sun or by appointment. A Pumpura 11a. Open evening mass. by the world-famous artist,
This redbrick, Neo-Gothic According to local legend donated by his children. Guided
church dates from 1893 but has the daughters of a rich tours and maps are available
been completely renovated. merchant drowned in a lake from the renovated water tower
During the Soviet regime, it was on the spot where the church that now houses the fortress’s
used as a boxing gym. now stands. culture and information centre.
0 yards 500
1 Museum of Regional Studies and Arts
2 Synagogue
3 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe
4 Church of the Birth of the Mother
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p Latgale Lakes
Latvia’s relatively hilly southeastern corner, known as the
Latgale Uplands (Latgales augstiene), is covered with a
patchwork of many lakes. On a sunny day it is easy to see
why this part is called the Land of Blue Lakes. Unfortunately,
public transport is limited here, although if time permits the
area can be explored by bus. The route also passes through
Rēzekne, where the tourist office can provide advice on
activities such as angling and bird-watching in the area, and
a trip to Ludza en route is also possible.
Lake Lubāns, one of Latvia’s favourite
spots for bird-watchers
Žogotas
lta
Dricāni
7 Teirumnīki Nagļi
A boardwalk Ivgolova
circles the lake and
Kantinieki
runs through a
swamp where Rēzekne
Ludza 5 Rēzekne
cranberries grow. Rēzekne The cultural centre of
Skastagals
Latgale, Rēzekne is
Janopole
known for its
Balbiši
statue of pagan
goddess Māra.
Višķeri Lake
Kaunata
Rāzna
Zosna
Lipuški
4 Lake Rāzna
The largest in Latvia by
3 Mākoņkalns volume, Lake Rāzna Andrupene
Cloud Hill, at 248 m (814 ft), is a offers a number of
Andeņi Lake
popular viewpoint, with ruins decent accommo-
Ežezers
of a castle on the summit. dation options.
Dagda
2 Lielais Liepukalns
Key
At 289 m (948 ft), this hill is the 0 km 10
Tour route highest point in the region and
the third-highest in the country. 0 miles 10
Other road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5
E A S T E R N L AT V I A 203
Environs
There are other interesting sites
close to Vecpiebalga. The Kārlis
Skalbe Museum is about 4 km
(2 miles) from the town. Soviet-era steam engine locomotive at Gulbene railway station
LITHUANIA
Lithuania at a Glance
An unblemished natural landscape of rolling hills, Lithuania
ESTONIA
is blessed with thousands of lakes that create a complex
network of streams and rivers. In this low-lying, post-glacial
countryside, almost all the land lies at less than 200 m (656 ft) LAT VIA
Mažeikiai Naujoji
Skuodas Akmenė
Joniškis
Kuršėnai
Palanga Telšiai
Plungė Šiauliai
WESTERN LITHUANIA
(see pp272–89) Radviliškis
Klaipėda Rietavas
Kelmė
Priekulė
Palanga (see p286) is a
popular beach resort that Šilalė
draws hundreds of visitors
each summer. Once a quiet Šilutė
Raseiniai
little fishing hamlet, today
it is a vibrant place filled Tauragė
with innumerable
bars and cafés.
Jurbarkas
Šakiai
0 km 25
0 miles 25
Marijampolė
Kalvarija
Biržai
Pasvalys
Rokiškis
Pakroujis
Kupiškis
Zarasai
Panevėžys
Vilnius Cathedral (see
pp228–9), a Neo-Classical
structure, houses the
Ramygala lavish Baroque Chapel
Utena of St Casimir and a
CENTRAL LITHUANIA crypt that provides an
(see pp252–271) Ignalina insight into Lithuania’s
Kėdainiai
complex history.
Ukmergė Molėtai
Jonava
Pabradė
Kaunas
VILNIUS
(see pp220–251)
Birštonas Vilnius
Trakai
Alytus
Merkinė
A PORTRAIT OF
LITHUANIA
The largest of the three Baltic States and one of the hidden jewels of Europe,
Lithuania takes pride in its relatively secluded landscape of clean lakes, ancient
forests and coastal dunes. The capital, Vilnius, which has a UNESCO-protected
Old Town, combines the romance of its breathtaking Baroque architecture with
the modern trappings of 21st-century Europe.
A sweeping view of Parnidis Dune, or the Great Dune, in the Curonian Spit National Park
Façade of Rokiškis Manor House, embellished with Neo-Baroque details
210 INTRODUCING LITHUANIA
Modern Life
The countless art galleries
in the cities and towns reveal
the importance of art and
culture to Lithuania. The walls of
most households are adorned with
real paintings and graphics rather
Lithuanian president Dalia Grybauskaitė at a meeting in Vilnius than framed reproductions.
Cultural figures, such as M K
revealing how politicians have lobbied Čiurlionis and adored novelist and
on behalf of business interests in painter Jurga Ivanauskaitė, have
exchange for money have created apportioned their skills to more than
the feeling that moral leadership in one medium. Symphonies, chamber
Lithuania is waning. Some politicians, concerts, classical ballet and opera
however, including current, two-time are performed regularly throughout
president Dalia Grybauskaitė, remain the country. On the stage, the dark,
untainted by scandal. post-industrial version of Hamlet, by
acclaimed theatre director Eimuntas
Economy Nekrošius, is one of the most popular
The Lithuanian economy is one of theatrical pieces.
the fastest-growing in Europe. A In sport, Lithuania has produced
dynamic private sector feeds strongly achievers such as the discus-thrower
on niche industries including laser Virgilijus Alekna and ice-dancer
optics and biotechnology, as well as Margarita Drobiazko, but basketball
core industries such as construction remains its national obsession. While the
and energy. Lithuanian laser and Kaunas-based Žalgiris team and Vilnius-
biotech companies are among the based Lietuvos Rytas team dominate the
strongest in Europe. Lithuania’s largest domestic scene, the Lithuanian Olympic
company by turnover is the Mažeikių basketball team has put the country on
Nafta oil refinery near Mažeikiai. The the world sporting map.
Soviet-era Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant
has been decommissioned, but a new
nuclear power plant is likely to be
constructed to reduce reliance on
Russian energy.
Agriculture was rapidly privatized
following independence, and then
heavily subsidized once Lithuania
joined the European Union. Although
this has made much of the land more
productive, negative results include large
swathes of abandoned land and wide-
spread rural poverty. However, ways are
being found to invest in sustainable
industries such as tourism. Many small High-energy Euroleague basketball match
212 INTRODUCING LITHUANIA
LITHUANIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
Lithuanians celebrate a host of festivals of the country’s events, and it ranges from
where traditional events and folk culture classical, jazz and blues to electronic and
blend with ancient pagan and Catholic contemporary. Christmas is usually white
rituals. Most of the year’s events take place but the thick snows fail to thwart the
in summer, when after months of wintry merrymaking, which culminates in
gloom the country comes alive with music, New Year’s Eve celebrations. A number
dance, cinema, folk culture, handicraft and of commemorative days are observed in
food festivals. Music is at the centre of most addition to the traditional annual events.
Summer
The sultry Lithuanian summer
initiates great festivities. Classical
music takes precedence in the
warm evenings, along with jazz
and blues.
June
Cow-Swimming Festival,
Aukštaitija National Park.
A quirky custom where locals
dress in folk costumes and
watch as cows wearing
wreaths are led into a lake
to swim to the other side.
Kaziuko Crafts Fair, held every year to mark St Casimir’s Day Medieval Festival, Trakai.
Knights’ fights with swords
May and battleaxes are the
Spring New Baltic Dance (early May), festival’s highlight.
Lithuanians welcome spring Vilnius and Klaipėda. This Joninės (24 Jun). The summer
with joyful celebrations. The eclectic event celebrates modern solstice is celebrated all over
warmer weather wakes the dance and theatre. Lithuania on St John’s Day.
country up to a new season Poetry Spring, Vilnius. An It is also known as Rasos,
of fairs and festivals. international poetry festival and meaning “of the dew”, for
the most outstanding annual dew’s healing properties.
March literary event in Lithuania. Pažaislis Music Festival (Jun–
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (4 Mar), Kaunas City Day (late May). A Aug), Kaunas. Hosted at the
Vilnius. A feast of traditional folk art fair with concerts, fun- Baroque Pažaislis Monastery, it
arts and crafts marking fairs and fireworks. stages music performances.
St Casimir’s Day, with stalls
selling all manner of curios. July
Cinema Spring (late Mar– Christopher Summer Festival
early Apr), Vilnius. One of the (Jul–Aug), Vilnius. A hugely
largest international film enjoyable musical fiesta with
festivals in the Baltic region, it performances at different
showcases the best foreign- venues all over the city.
language films of the year, most Statehood Day (6 Jul). Pomp and
with English subtitles. ceremony are the hallmarks of this
national holiday dedicated to the
April coronation of King Mindaugas.
Garso Galerija, Vilnius. Varniai Blues Nights features
A festival of new electronic blues and jazz performers with
music, often featuring radical the isolated Lake Lukštas as
international songwriters. the backdrop.
Kaunas Jazz (late Apr). One of Sea Festival (late Jul), Klaipėda.
the best international jazz Local folk dressed in traditional costume, The freedom of the seas
festivals in the country. Kaunas City Day festival expressed in a carnival.
LITHUANIA THROUGH THE YEAR 213
Winter
Lithuania looks stunning in winter
as it is often covered in a blanket
of snow. However, the chill does
not curb the festive spirit.
November
Scanorama (mid-Nov), Vilnius.
Guards at the Presidential Palace in Vilnius, on Statehood Day Scandinavian films take over the
capital’s multiplexes for this
August September annual 10-day film festival.
Christopher’s Guitars, Vilnius. Mushroom Festival (late Sep),
A festival featuring classical Varėna. A traditional festival December
guitar and flamenco concerts dedicated to mushrooms Christmas (24–26 Dec). The
as its highlight. that includes the Lithuanian festivities culminate in most
Mėnuo Juodaragis (late Aug). Mushroom-Picking homes with a 12-course meat-
Translated as “Black Horned Championship. free meal on Christmas Eve.
Moon”, this annual musical Fire Sculptures Festival Christmas Day is celebrated with
event of folk, metal and (21–23 Sep). Straw figures are mass in church, and concerts.
electronica is held in a different set alight at night in this festival New Year’s Eve (31 Dec).
location every 3 years. that honours Grand Duke Celebrations and parties take
Capital Days (late Aug–Sep), Gediminas and also celebrates place throughout the country,
Vilnius. A multi-art event during the autumn equinox. and at the stroke of midnight
which Gedimino Avenue is fireworks light up the sky.
flooded with crafts and food October
stalls, while the squares of Sirenos Theatre Festival January
central Vilnius become rock (Oct), Vilnius. Works by Epiphany (6 Jan), Vilnius. Shortly
and pop music venues. international and local artists after New Year, a colourful pro-
are showcased. cession of the Three Kings graces
International Festival of the streets of the Old Town.
Autumn Modern Dance (early Oct),
Autumn, which is from mid- Kaunas. A festival of free-style February
September to December, is a contemporary dance, it attracts Užgavėnės (mid-Feb). People
visual treat. However, there are the best dancers from all over throughout Lithuania don
fewer annual events. the world. masks of witches, devils, goats
and other creatures and feast on
heartwarmingly rich food in this
farewell to winter.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Independence Day (16 Feb)
Restoration of
Independence (11 Mar)
Easter (Mar/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Midsummer’s Day (23 Jun)
Joninės (24 Jun)
Statehood Day (6 Jul)
Assumption Day (15 Aug)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
Musicians jamming at the Vilnius Jazz festival
214 INTRODUCING LITHUANIA
THE HISTORY OF
LITHUANIA
Europe’s last pagan stronghold, Lithuania rose as a powerful state by the late 14th
century, surviving until the 16th century. It was thereafter subjugated first by the
Poles and then the Russians. The long periods of occupation endured by the
country stirred a reawakening of national identity in its people. An independent
republic, briefly created during the inter-war era, was finally established in 1991.
The marriage formed a Polish-Lithuanian hand, were deprived of all political rights as
alliance that endured for centuries. This well as the right to own land, while the
proved particularly effective as peasants were forced to become
a bulwark against enemies in serfs, subject to severe punishment
the West and in the East. if they attempted to flee.
Under Grand Duke Vytautas The 17th century was a
(r.1401–30), Lithuania was able disastrous period for Lithuania, with
to extend its reach between misrule in Warsaw, plague and fires
the Baltic and the Black seas. in Vilnius and a calamitous invasion
Throughout the first half of by the Russians in 1655. Governed
Portrait of Grand Duke Vytautas
the 16th century, however, a on a tile by a string of ineffective rulers and
militant Russia compelled a noblemen who were either
stronger union between Lithuania and deliberately divisive or simply uninterested
Poland, cemented at the Union of Lublin in in state affairs, the steadily weakening
1569. The Commonwealth that resulted Commonwealth became, throughout the
lasted for over 200 years. 18th century, little more than a puppet state
to Tsarist Russia. In a series of partitions in
Decline of the Commonwealth 1772, 1793 and 1795, the vast lands of the
When King Sigismund Augustus (r.1548–72) Commonwealth were divided between
died without an heir, the combined Russia, Prussia and Austria, despite brave
position of Grand Duke of Lithuania and armed resistance by Lithuanian patriots.
King of Poland became an elected one, One such failed uprising was led by Jokūbas
chosen by the all-powerful nobility. Warsaw, Jasinskis (1761–94). By 1795, with the final
midway between the old capitals of Vilnius partition of the Commonwealth, Poland and
and Kraków, became the base. Stefan Lithuania had ceased to exist.
Bathory (1533–86) was one of the
most successful of these elected
heads of state. Apart from founding
Vilnius University, he also introduced
sweeping military and judicial
reforms. During the Livonian Wars
(see p37), he successfully led a
decisive campaign against the
Russians, regaining control over
Livonia in 1582.
Under the Commonwealth, Poland
established its hegemony, with the
Poles dominating the Lithuanian
nobility. The bourgeoisie, on the other Russians paying tribute to Stefan Bathory in a painting by Jan Matejko
Brest
Originally a defensive military union, the Duchy quickly CRACOW
Chernigov
Lutsk Kiev
started expanding eastwards and southwards, eventually Bratslav
Poltava
VILNIUS
Whether viewed from one of the hills that overlook the Old Town or
from one of the many pavement cafés with tall spires rising all
around them, Vilnius is unmistakably a city of great beauty. The
Old Town, on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1994, blends
Gothic and Neo-Classical styles with a breathtaking late flourish
of Baroque. Vilnius is in itself an architectural monument.
The character of Vilnius, the Lithuanian rebuild the city resulted in the rich
capital, has been retained partly because offshoot of the Baroque style that is
of its isolated location. Yet, the ebb and typical of its architecture today.
flow of history has given it a more Vilnius regained its status as the
multicultural feel than the country’s capital of Lithuania in 1918, but only
other cities. for a year. Occupied by Poland, with
The earliest written reference to Vilnius Lithuania’s government forced to
exists in a letter from Grand Duke relocate to Kaunas, it declined in
Gediminas in 1323, inviting citizens from economic importance until the
towns in Germany to settle here, Soviets invaded it in 1939. World War II
pledging freedom from taxes and devastated Vilnius and annihilated
granting other rights. Pagan Vilnius most of its Jewish population, but
sustained many attacks during the under the ensuing Soviet occupation
Northern Crusades, yet by the 14th the city expanded.
century it had become the capital of an Vilnius has been transformed from a
empire that stretched from the Baltic Sea sleepy backwater to a lively, modern
to the Black Sea. Vilnius was reduced to European capital that provides a
the status of a provincial city in the wonderful setting for shopping, dining
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, but and nightlife. However, with Vilnius
following a period of devastating wars, University, Town Hall Square and several
invasions and fires between the early carefully restored churches, the city has
17th and mid-18th centuries, efforts to retained its charm.
Colourful mural by Antanas Kmieliauskas decorating the ceiling of Vilnius University’s bookshop, Littera
Bronze doors of Vilnius University Library
222 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Exploring Vilnius
Although its Old Town is one of the largest in Europe, Vilnius is a
surprisingly compact city that can easily be explored on foot.
Two of the best places to begin a tour of
the Old Town and its Baroque treasures
are Vilnius Cathedral in the north and
the Gates of Dawn in the south.
S
Gedimino Avenue, the main
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8
VILNIUS 223
Key
Place of interest
Pedestrian street
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Walking is the best way to explore the Old
Bus Station Railway Station
660 m (720 yards) 550 m (600 yards) Town. Cycling is another popular way of
Vilnius International Airport getting around the area. Bicycles can be
6 km (4 miles) rented from the tourist office in the Old Town.
Outlying sites, such as the TV Tower and
Puškin Museum, can be reached by bus or
trolleybus, but others, for example Verkiai Palace,
are more easily reached by car or taxi.
For keys to symbols see back flap
224 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
q Upper Castle
The best visual
introduction to Vilnius
is from the viewing
platform on the
castle’s last surviving
tower. The Lithuanian
flag was raised here in
1919 and in 1988.
0 Royal Palace
Also known as the Lower
Castle, it was the main
residence of the Grand
Dukes and was the
political and cultural
heart of Lithuania.
8 Vilnius Cathedral
The austere Neo-Classical exterior of
U
N
3 Presidential Palace
Key
A 14th-century nobleman’s residence, this building
has hosted many historical figures. It became the
Suggested route Presidency in 1997.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8
VILNIUS 225
. Pilies Street
With a view of the Upper
Castle ever present, Pilies
is one of the city’s oldest
streets. It was once
Vilnius’s commercial
centre but today the
street is popular with
visitors hunting for
amberware and other
local products. Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp250–51
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
u Church of St Anne
NŲ GAT VĖ
ARDI The flamboyant Gothic redbrick church fell
RN
BE victim to Napoleon’s soldiers, who used it
as a barracks on their way to Moscow in
1812. Fortunately, the beautiful façade has
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Littera Bookshop
G
1. Vilnius University
Lithuania’s largest university, it occupies a
sizeable part of the Old Town. The university has
over 13 courtyards and multiple buildings.
226 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Colourful interior of Littera, with its collection of books for leisure and study material, Vilnius University
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8
VILNIUS 227
Elegantly displayed paintings in one of the exhibition rooms, Vilnius Picture Gallery
4 Vilnius Picture Peter the Great baptized a nine- of Lithuania signed the deed
Gallery year-old African slave by the that restored Lithuania’s
Vilniaus paveikslų galerija name of Hannibal, later Major- independence. The Štralis
General Abram Petrovich Coffee House on the ground
Didžioji 4. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 4258. Hannibal (1696–1781), great- floor, created during renovation
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, noon– grandfather of the Russian poet in the 1890s, was a popular
5pm Sun. & 8 = ∑ ldm.lt Alexander Pushkin. The current meeting place for leading
building, designed by Nikolai figures in the Lithuanian
The imposing, enclosed Neo- Chagin, dates from 1865. Closed national revival.
Classical courtyard of this gallery during the Soviet period, it has The second-floor room,
offers a reflection of 19th-century been returned to the Russian where the independence
Vilnius, when these premises Orthodox faith. act was signed, has been
were used by Vilnius University re-created. Unfortunately,
and the Medical Academy. Inside, the displays on this historic
the paintings on display show event are a little sparse.
how the main art movements of
the 19th and early 20th centuries
influenced the development of 7 Šlapelis House
Lithuanian art. Lithuanian Girl Museum
with Verbos by Kanutas Ruseckas Šlapelių namas-muziejus
(1800–60) is an icon of the
Pilies 40. Map 2 D4. Tel 261 0771.
Romantic aesthetic in Lithuanian Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (call in
art. Similarly, the later move- advance). 8 ∑ vilniausmuziejai.lt
ments of Realism and
Impressionism are reflected, Presenting a journey back in
respectively, in intimate portraits, time to Vilnius during the
such as Alfredas Romeris’s Study troubled first half of the 20th
of a Girl’s Hands, and open century, this modest, yet
landscapes, such as Juozas evocative, museum is dedicated
Balzukevičius’s Across a Ryefield. to Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis.
Although a native Polish-
speaker, Marija secretly ran a
5 Church of The small Russian Orthodox Church of Lithuanian-language bookshop
St Paraskeva St Paraskeva on nearby Domininkonų Street
Šv Paraskevos cerkvė while the city was under
Russian, Polish, Nazi and Soviet
Didžioji 2. Map 2 D4. Tel 215 3747. 6 House of occupations between 1906
Also known as Pyatnitskaya Signatories and 1949.
Church, this attractive little Signatarų namai On display are furnishings,
Orthodox church stands on a newspapers, books, music
Pilies 26. Map 2 D3. Tel 231 4437.
site that has been used for rituals Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. 8 -
sheets and postcards from
and prayer for many centuries. this time. In addition, photo-
In the mid-14th century, Grand The House of Signatories, with graphs showing a number
Duke Algirdas built a church an extravagant façade, has of family reunions following
here for his Orthodox wife, played a crucial role in the end of Soviet occupation
before which it had been a Lithuania’s modern history. It can be found beneath 17th-
pagan sanctuary. Here, at the was here that, on 16 February century beams in what used
beginning of the 18th century, 1918, the newly created Council to be the kitchen.
228 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
8 Vilnius Cathedral
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika
Stucco Sculpture
A sculpture depicting a
bird sacrifice can be
seen on the
tympanum of
the façade.
The entrance
is via a huge
Classical portico.
High Altar
The marvellously
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
intricate tabernacle door
Practical Information
on the High Altar, which
Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
was created in the 1620s,
Tel 261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
is fashioned from gold
daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
and silver. Two biblical
to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
scenes, the Last Supper
souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
and Christ Washing the
northern entrance for timings
Disciples’ Feet, are
and prices. =
beautifully depicted
on the panel.
. St Casimir’s Chapel
Italian masters created this
superb chapel, one of the major
Baroque jewels of Vilnius, from
1623 to 1636. Its main highlights
are the marble columns,
magnificent stucco figures and
colourful frescoes.
St Casimir (1458–84)
Casimir was the second
son of a Grand Duke,
whose siblings became
kings and queens of
European states
through lineage and
marriage. Pious Casimir
shunned the luxuries of
court life and would
often go to the cathedral
to pray. When he died of
tuberculosis aged 25, it was
rumoured that his coffin
could cure disease. A fresco
. Crypt in St Casimir’s Chapel shows
A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of two how a sick orphan, who
Grand Dukes and two wives of Sigismund prayed beneath the coffin, Richly decorated altar of
Augustus (r.1548–72), the last descendant of was miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
Gediminas (r.1316–41).
230 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
0 Lower Castle
Žemutinė pilis
Katedros 4. Map 2 D3. Tel 212 7476.
@ 10, 11, 33. Open 8am–5pm Mon–
Fri (to 3:45pm Fri). 8
∑ valdovurumai.lt
r Hill of Three
Crosses
Trijų kryžių kalnas
Kalnų parkas. Map 2 E3.
y Bernardine
Church
Bernardinų bažnyčia
Maironio 8. Map 2 E3. Tel 260 9292.
@ 10, 11, 33. 5 7:30am Mon–Thu;
6pm Sat; 9am (in English), 10:30am,
1pm, 5pm Sun.
D
ID
ŽI
OJ
I
GA
T V
s Town Hall Ė
With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.
A
R
K
Ė L
T V Ių
RŪDN
Ų GA
EČ I
VOKI
INKų
GA
V T
Ė
Key
Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8
VILNIUS 235
Šv Kazimiero
Street
A narrow cobble-
stone street named
after St Casimir
snakes around the
back of the church
towards Užupis,
with its jumble
of roofs.
Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp250–51
Church of the
Holy Spirit
VĖ
j . Church of St Theresa
AT
AU
IA
KŠOS GAT VĖ
Ė
AUŠROS VAR TŲ GAT V
Ė
T V
GA
NŲ
G
A
JO
T
V
Ė
LI
ZI
BA
Basilian Gate
k. Gates of Dawn
Basilian Monastery A site of pilgrimage, this gateway
The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a to the Old Town protects a silver-
prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet covered painting of the Virgin Mary,
Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. said to have miraculous powers.
236 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Panoramic view of Town Hall Square, with flagpoles and church spires
Baroque Vilnius
The sensual waves, rich colours and theatrical stucco figures of Baroque architecture
reached Lithuania during the first half of the 17th century, replacing Gothic and
Renaissance. Italian masters, invited by Lithuania’s rulers, built Baroque gems such as
St Casimir’s Chapel (see p229) and the Church of St Theresa. In the mid-17th century came
a second resurgence of the style, when architects living in Vilnius began to develop a
distinct branch of Baroque. Led by Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz, they began to transform the
Old Town’s panorama by designing opulent façades, matched by voluptuous interiors
and multiple altars. By the end of the 18th century Baroque had been replaced by the far
more restrained values of Neo-Classicism.
z Artillery Bastion
Bastėja
Bokšto 20/18. Map 2 E4. Tel 261 2149.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
! KGB Museum
Genocido aukų muziejus
Aukų 2a. Map 1 C2. Tel 249 8156.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. & 8 =
∑ genocid.lt
Jewish Vilnius
Until it was eliminated during the Holocaust, Jewish Vilna, or Vilnius, was home to a large,
influential Jewish community. About 250,000 Jews lived in Lithuania at the turn of the
19th century, compared to just 4,000 today, and 40 per cent of Vilnius’s population was
Jewish. By the early 19th century, Vilnius had emerged as a major centre of Jewish
learning and bustled with life. The religious customs of the Litvaks, as Lithuanian Jews
are known in Yiddish, were marked by a rigid analysis of the Talmud, the Jewish laws and
traditions. As a result, other Jewish communities in Eastern Europe saw the Vilna Jews as
being old-fashioned and staunch intellectuals. Decimated by World War II and ravaged
further by the Soviets, Jewish Vilna is a ghostly reminder of a vanished world.
TU GA
BU
T NA R T O ŠNIPIŠKĖS footpath behind the school on
SK TV
G AT V Ė
U Ė
K O NS
TI T
LĖ
UC
N
IJO
Ų
Ė
ŽVĖRYNAS S G AT V
A
plunges down the Vilnia Valley
TO
G
A G O Š T AU
TA
into Kalnų Park.
OLA N D Ų
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ris
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2 Church of Sts
0 km 2 O
OLD B AT
S
TOWN
GELEŽIN
0 miles 2
Peter and Paul
M
2
A
10
IRO
N IO G
A14
IO VILKO GATVĖ
See pp246–7.
VĖ
Ė D AU
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Ų
I VI MARKUČIAI
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LN
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IO
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0 km 1
Cemetery
Ė
0 miles 1
Antakalnio kapinės
V ILNIUS
Karių kapų 11. Tel 234 0587.
1 Užupis
101
@ 11.
The largest public cemetery in
MIN
Vilnius brings together much
SKO
PLE
NTA
Tucked inside a bend in the of the city’s modern history.
Vilnius
A3 S Vilnia river, Užupis translates Statues and memorial stones
A15
International
Airport
as “Behind the River”. This cover the verdant landscape,
picturesque part of central the crosses and tombs
Sights at a Glance Vilnius has narrow streets filled inscribed in Lithuanian, Russian
1 Užupis with cafés, art galleries and and Polish. The main path leads
2 Church of Sts Peter and Paul
mysterious hidden courtyards. past a wave of identical stone
pp246–7 The artists who live here crosses dedicated to Polish
declared independence in 1997, soldiers who died during World
3 Antakalnis Cemetery
with their own flag, president War I. At the heart of the
4 Green Bridge
and independence day (1 April). cemetery is a sweeping semi-
5 Parliament
Their constitution, which circular memorial cut into the
6 Vingis Park and Žvėrynas features articles such as “Every- hillside for the 14 civilians who
7 TV Tower one has the right to understand were killed while defending
8 Pushkin Museum nothing”, is nailed to a wall on the TV Tower and the
9 Rasos Cemetery
0 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial
q Calvary Church of the
Holy Cross
w Trinapolis Church
e Verkiai Palace
Key
City centre
Motorway
Main road
Minor road Imaginatively painted façade of the Alternative Art Centre, Užupis
For keys to symbols see back flap
VILNIUS 245
Boat-Shaped Chandelier
A late addition to the interior and
a reference to St Peter’s profession
as a fisherman, the glass-bead
chandelier was made by Latvian
craftsmen in 1905.
Altar
The original high altar was replaced
by The Parting of St Peter and St Paul
(1801), created by the Polish
historical painter Pranciškus
Smuglevičius (1745–1807).
KEY
. Chapel of
St Ursula
Ursula was an English
princess seized by the
Huns with 10 virgin
companions and shot with
arrows. Images of their fate
are balanced by four
sculptures of female saints
including Mary Magdalene.
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Holy Holy
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Gate Gate
TU
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Church of of
Church
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LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION 253
CENTRAL LITHUANIA
Rolling hills, swathes of untouched ancient forest and
thousands of clear lakes characterize Central Lithuania.
Much of the land is protected, allowing birds, animals and
plants to thrive. While Vilnius and Kaunas are the region’s
most vibrant cities, the less-visited towns and villages of the
region, with their beautiful churches and farmsteads, also
attract a number of visitors.
Permanent display entitled “Space of Unknown Growth” at the open-air art museum, Europe Park
The onion-domed Russian Orthodox Church in Druskininkai
254 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Mu
Ap
aš
ša
Ignalina. However, Central Lithuania is more than just lakes a
či
Tetirvina
and forests. The towns are scenic and there is a good choice Pasvalys Gedžiūnai
Jonišlėlis
of old-fashioned farmsteads to visit.
Pakroujis
Py
Pušalotas es
v
a
Rozalimas
L evuo
Paliūniškis
Smilgiai
Šiauliai
PANEVĖŽYS
Dapšioniai
Upytė
Troskūnai
Krekenava N
ev
Ramygala
Do
eži
s
tnu
vėl
Surviliškis
ė
Dotnuva
Ilgiżiai Ukmergė
Flower beds in the pedestrianized centre of Panevėžys uš
Š
vė KĖDAINIAI
Jurbarkas
Josvainiai
Labūnava Vepriai
Didieji Jonava
Babtai Bėnai
Liukonys
Sights at a Glance
is
Vilkija
Ner
Nemunas
Towns and Resorts
3 Kernavė Kaišiadorys
4 Varėna
KAUNAS
Ezėrėlis
5 Druskininkai Garliava
Electrėnai
Nemunas
8 Alytus Mauručiai
9 Kalvarija J ū rė
Slabadai
0 Marijampolė Uzuguostis
Pilviškiai
q Birštonas Prienai
sia
BIRŠTONAS
Iie
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 255
Getting Around
The A1 motorway between Vilnius and Kaunas and
onwards to the coast, and the A2 motorway from Vilnius to
Panevėžys are the region’s major arteries. Good bases for
exploring are Kaunas, Druskininkai, Anykščiai and Palūšė,
each of which is reachable by bus. Buses traverse Aukštaitija
and Dzūkija national parks, but the best way to enjoy the
surroundings is to reach the pretty villages of Zervynos and
Kvetkai
Čedasai Salos II on foot. Trains go to Kaunas and Ignalina from the
Ne
mu capital, but road transport should be taken to all other
neli
s areas. There are airports at Vilnius and Kaunas.
Pandėlys ROKIŠKIS
Aleksandrevėlė
Kriaunos
Panemunėlis
Lake Daugavpils Key
Sartai
Kupiškis Kamajai Zarasai Motorway
Didžiasalis
nto
Lake
Šve
Širvintos Visalaukė
Magūnai
EUROPE
PARK
Ner
is Nemenčinė
KERNAVĖ
N eris
Sudervė
Vilnia Lavoriškės
TRAKAI Vilnius
ISLAND
CASTLE Rukainiai
Rūdiškes
Tiltai Šalčininkėlia
Valkininkai Šalčininkai
Salčia
Lida
VARĖNA Eišiškės
Rudnia
. Lakeside Walk
One way to appreciate Trakai’s
idyllic lake-filled landscape
and the scale of the castle’s
construction, is to take the
pretty walk that follows
the shore of the island.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 257
Lake Galvė
Serving as a moat VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
around the castle, the
lake has 21 tiny islands. Practical Information
Rowing and paddle Road Map D5. n Vytauto
boats can be hired gatvė 69. Tel (528) 51 934.
along the quayside for Žalgiris Yacht Club: Žemaitės
a spectacular view of gatvė 3. Tel (528) 52 824.
the castle. History Museum: Tel (528) 53 946.
Open Mar, Apr & Oct: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 10am–7pm
daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm Tue–
Sun. & ∑ rakai-visit.lt
Transport
@ from Vilnius. £ from Vilnius.
. History Museum
The museum showcases a wide array
of weaponry as well as items found
during excavations, including
16th-century tankards, tiles and coins.
Farmstead with wooden barns, on the edge of the forest in Zervynos, near Varėna
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 259
6 Grūtas Park
Grūto parkas
Road Map D6. Parko 47, Grūtas
village, Druskininkai. Tel (370) 3135
5511. Open 9am–sunset daily. & 8
7 - ∑ grutoparkas.lt
View of the Nemunas river and surrounding area from the fort-hill at Merkinė, near Dzūkija National Park
7 Dzūkija National scenic hamlet of Liškiava, at the the city and the Dzūkija forests
Park southwestern edge of the park. to the south. In the centre, the
Dzūkijos nacionalinis parkas The 14th-century castle that Museum of Local Lore has a
stood here defended the Grand collection of 65,000 antiques.
Road Map D6. £ from Vilnius to Duchy against the mighty The bridge across the Nemunas
Zervynos, Marcinkonys. @ from Vilnius Teutonic Knights. Another has a bas-relief depicting a
to Merkinė. n Vilniaus 3, Merkinė, striking landmark is the domed battle that occured here
(310) 44 641. Headquarters: Miškininkų
18th-century Holy Trinity between Lithuanians and
61, Šilagėlių 11, Marcinkonys, (310) 44
Church, with a rich interior Bolsheviks in 1919. It
466. 8 English-speaking guides
arranged in Merkinė, Marcinkonys.
featuring seven late Baroque claimed the life of Antanas
∑ dzukijosparkas.lt altars. A series of frescoes Juozapavičius, the first
depicting images from the Lithuanian officer to die in the
This densely forested park history of Christianity were independence struggle. His
covers 550 sq km (212 sq miles) covered in plaster in 1823 and tomb lies by the Guardian
of countryside. Besides an were only restored in 1997. Angels’ Church.
enormous area of ancient pine In Marcinkonys, a village Much of the city centre was
forest in the sandy Dainava 8 km (5 miles) southwest of destroyed in 1941. Soon after, all
plain, the park also covers Zervynos, a track leads south- the city’s 60,000 Jews were
sweeping bends in the wards to Čepkeliai killed in Vidzgiris Forest, a site
broad Nemunas Valley. Reserve. This area marked in 1993 by a monument
More than 200 species protects the country’s of a broken Star of David.
of flora and fauna are most extensive marsh, Gravestones in the city
protected in the park, which stretches into cemetery remember the Jews.
including many rare Belarus, and the migra-
species of stork. tory birds that stop here.
The few villages that Paths and raised wooden
are located in the park walkways reach
offer a glimpse of White stork, Dzūkija observation platforms
Eastern European life National Park offering great views.
that has remained the
same for a century or more.
The ethnographic reserve of 8 Alytus
Zervynos is on the park’s
Road Map D6. * 62,000. £ from
eastern edge. Kaunas. @ from Vilnius, Kaunas.
The ancient settlement of n S.Dariaus ir S.Girėno 1, (315) 52
Merkinė lies at the confluence 010. ∑ alytus.lt
of the Nemunas and Merkys
rivers. A fort-hill, the site of a Lithuania’s sixth-largest city
14th-century castle, offers began as a hilltop fortress
extensive vistas of the park. where the tiny Alytupis river
Another fort-hill overlooking trickles into the Nemunas. The Mass of crosses in the churchyard of
the Nemunas river is in the hill still offers views of both Guardian Angels’ Church, Alytus
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 261
T Kaunas Castle
Pilies 17. Tel (37) 300 672. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat.
The ruins of Kaunas Castle
are a reminder of the strategic
importance of its location,
between the two rivers, Neris and
Nemunas. Little is known about
what stood here before the first
stone structure was erected in
the 13th century. Crusaders
damaged the castle in 1362.
Soon after reconstruction, the
Teutonic Knights were dealt their
Bridge over the Nemunas river leading to the Old Town decisive blow at the Battle of
Grünwald (see p216) and the
P Old Town Hall fire station and theatre. Town castle consequently fell into ruins.
Rotušės aikštė. Hall Square, where it stands, was The structure was used as a
Known locally as the “White once a busy marketplace and prison in the 18th century, but
Swan” and resembling a church the focal point of the Old Town. was restored in the 1920s.
with its single-tiered tower, the
Old Town Hall has been a R Church of the Holy Trinity E Pharmacy Museum
marriage registry office since Rotušės aikštė 22. Tel (37) 323 734. Rotušės 28. Tel (37) 201 569.
the 1970s. It continues to be the 5 10am Sun. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
photogenic backdrop for Built for a Bernardine convent in A powder for epilepsy made
newlyweds. Built in the mid- the late 1620s, this church has from the heads of corpses, a
16th century, it housed remained in good condition. tincture of “Venus hair” to
merchants, magistrates and the Its blend of Renaissance and improve one’s allure and a
mayor, as well as a subterranean Gothic styles and pastel colours 19th-century herbal remedy
prison. It has been used as an brighten up the northwestern
ammunition store, clubhouse, corner of Town Hall Square. A KLAIPĖDA,
Ninth Fort
redesign of the interior was JU
Ė
TV
RB
GA
RAUDONDVARIS GA
outbreak of World War II.
NA
TV
Ė
JO
JI
LIO
ŽA
N eris
ŠAUKLIQ G A T V Ė
V Ė
AT
G TVĖ
G
VO
S GA
NA I KT I N I Q
ŠTO
Kaunas JO BE N E D
Castle
JAK
VĖ
US
S
GAT
UK Š O
A
M VALANCIA
PAP
I LIO ŠV G E
Santakos RTRÙ
ELIU
Park T VĖ
Museum
A MAPU
KUM
St George
Cathedral St Gertrude’s
Church of the of Sts Peter Church
Holy Trinity Old and Paul GR U O D ŽIO
TONO
SANT
AKOS
ROT
UŠĖ Town Hall V I L N I A U S G ATVĖ
TVĖ
O
GA S AIK
O
AR D
TV Ė ŠTĖ
HO F
GA
BIRŠ
Perkūnas
AUG
O
PU
EN
T
NK
House OD
KSO
Ž IU
ZAM
J N
LINI
Folk
A LE
Vytautas GA
SAMA
TV
Church Music Ė
0 metres 500 Ne mu nas Museum KARALIAUS
Elegant Old Town Hall, locally called the Zapyškis Church
“White Swan” 0 yards 500
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 263
for male vitality called Erektosan paintings, the 17thcentury VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
are among the exhibits at this Suffering Mother of God, repu
unique museum. Chilling tedly has miraculous powers. Practical Information
medicinal apparatus and the Road Map D5. * 320,000.
occasional waxwork, such as E Perkūnas House n Laisvės alėja 36, 323 436.
a shaman curing a baby, add Aleksoto 6. Tel (37) 6414 4614. _ International Jazz Festival
to the atmosphere. The Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Fri; other (Apr). ∑ kaunastic.lt
museum also runs a times by appointment. 8 Transport
homoeopathic pharmacy. The ogee arches and pinnacles k 10 km (6 miles) N of town.
of this redbrick Gothic building, £@
R Cathedral of Sts Peter resemble those of the Church
and Paul of St Anne (see p232), Vilnius. It
Vilniaus 1. Tel (37) 324 093. 5 7am, was named after Perkūnas, R Vytautas Church
8am, 9am, 6pm daily. the pagan god of Aleksoto 3. Tel (37) 203 854. 5 6pm
Several reconstructions thunder, when Tue–Thu, 10am & 6pm Sat–Sun.
have culminated in the renovation in the 19th Standing on the bank of the
Gothic and Renaissance century revealed that Nemunas river, this church was
exterior of this 15th it may once have been built on the orders of Vytautas
century cathedral. The the site of a pagan the Great after the Holy Roman
broadly late Baroque temple. Dating from Emperor decided in 1413, much
interior, however, has the early 1500s, it was to the ire of the Teutonic Knights,
remained largely originally a meeting that the land on the river’s right
unchanged since 1800. Painting, Cathedral of house for merchants bank belonged to the Grand
A tombstone on the Sts Peter and Paul in the Hanseatic Duchy of Lithuania. Already an
exterior of the south League. Bought by army storehouse, the church was
wall is that of Maironis (1862– the Jesuits, the house was con converted to serve a Russian
1932), a priestpoet whose verse verted into a chapel before Orthodox congregation. A full
romanticized Lithuanian becoming, in the 19th century, reconstruction took place after
legends and landmarks. Inside, a theatre and then a school. Lithuania’s first independence in
the sculptures surrounding the Later, during the Soviet period, 1918, post World War I. In 1930,
high altar are overpowering. it was used as a warehouse. It is a medallion was placed in the
The oldest of the cathedral’s now back with the Jesuits. church wall to commemorate
the 500th anniversary of
Kaunas Vytautas’s death.
1 Old Town Hall 9 Folk Music Museum
2 Church of the Holy Trinity 0 Laisvės Avenue
3 Church of St George q Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery
4 Kaunas Castle w Church of the Resurrection
5 Pharmacy Museum e M K Čiurlionis Art Museum
6 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul r Vytautas the Great War Museum
7 Perkūnas House t Devils Museum
8 Vytautas Church
Airport VILNIUS,
10 km (6 miles) RUMŠIŠKĖS Redbrick Gothic structure of
Vytautas Church
R OS
Ė A UŠ
TV Ė
GA
Ž
TV Church of the
E Folk Music Museum
E
GA S
M
TA Resurrection
US K
A
ČI
A PE Devils Zamenhofo 12. Tel (37) 422 295.
IČ
EV
I OS Museum
IU
K PR
M
AC
V PUTVINSKIO
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
G
A M K Čiurlionis G AT V Ė
A
Q
R I Art Museum V Sat. & 8
T
E Laisvės
Avenue
LAISVĖS
ALĖJA ing pipes and whistles. Only 500
G AT V Ė City of them are on display due to
DAUKANTO
Garden NEPRIKLAUSOMYBĖS
IAUS
AIKŠTE
the museum’s small size. The
KĘSTUČIO G
staff can give demonstrations of
MICKEVIČ
AT V Ė
TV TO
Mykolas Žilinskas
Ė
M IND
AUGO PROSPEKT
AS such as the table bass, a pine
Bus Station
450 m (500 yards) table with four strings and a
A
Railway Station
800 m (885 yards)
Pažaislis
Monastery
pig’s bladder, are also displayed.
For keys to symbols see back flap
264 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
E Devils Museum
R Church of the V Putvinskio 64. Tel (37) 221 587.
Resurrection Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Žemaičių 31. Tel (37) 229 222. 5 6pm -=
Mon–Fri; 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm Sun. This museum’s fine collection of
With a 70-m (230-ft) steeple, this representations of devils, demons
church was built in 1918 to mark and witches from Lithuania and
Lithuanian independence. After around the world, was brought
World War II, the Soviets turned it together by avid collector
into a radio factory. With indepen- Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876–
dence regained, the factory was 1966). A sculpture of the horned
evicted. After reconstruction the figures of Hitler and Stalin fight-
church was consecrated on ing over Lithuania in a pit of
Christmas Day 2004. bones is grim, but most of the
Laisvės Avenue leading to the Church devils are shown as playful,
of St Michael E M K Čiurlionis Art musical and frequently drunk.
Museum
P Laisvės Avenue V Putvinskio 55. Tel (37) 229 475. E Ninth Fort
At the eastern end of this Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to Žemaičių 73. Tel (37) 377 750.
boulevard are the blue-silver 7pm Thu). & 8 ∑ ciurlionis.lt Open 10am–6pm Thu–Mon.
onion domes of the Church of Housing virtually all of Čiurlionis’s 8 ∑ 9fortomuziejus.lt
St Michael. Originally Russian paintings, this museum also The ninth in a series of
Orthodox when it was built in covers the development of art in fortifications constructed by
the early 1890s, it was later Lithuania. With 335,000 exhibits, Tsarist Russia to protect its
converted to serve the Lithuanian it holds Lithuania’s biggest art western borders was built in the
army. A monument by the park collection, but there is only room early 20th century, only
outside the Music Theatre at to display a fraction of the pieces. to become a prison in 1924.
Laisvės 4 marks the spot where Artifacts from other cultures During World War II, it was used
Romas Kalanta, a Lithuanian include some oddly juxtaposed for incarceration and exterm-
student, set fire to himself on pieces from Ancient Egypt. ination by the Nazis. The fort
14 May 1972 in protest against also housed Soviet political
Soviet rule. His suicide sparked E Vytautas the Great prisoners. Part of a farm after the
student protests, which were War Museum war, it opened as a “museum to
ruthlessly suppressed. Donelaičio 64. Tel (37) 320 939. the victims of Fascism” in 1958.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 The renovation in 2015 has
E Mykolas Žilinskas Lithuania’s national war museum resulted in expanded displays
Art Gallery exhibits weapons that the on the Nazi and Soviet occupa-
Nepriklausomybės 12. Tel (37) 222 853. country has used to defend itself. tions and the history of the fort.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
An exile who had fled from
Kaunas to West Berlin in advance
of the Soviets in 1940, Mykolas
Žilinskas (1904–92) later built a
valuable art collection, which he
donated to Kaunas in the 1970s.
Besides canvases and porcelain
from the 16th to the 20th
centuries, including The Crucifixion
by Rubens and some early Soviet
avant-garde art, there are also
pre-war paintings and sculptures
by Baltic artists. Artillery on show at the Vytautas the Great War Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
CENTRAL LITHUANIA 265
+ Raudondvaris
5 km (3 miles) W of Kaunas. @ from
Kaunas. ∑ raudondvariodvaras.lt
Built by the crusaders in the
14th century, Raudondvaris
(Red Manor) became a part of
Lithuania after the Battle of
Grünwald (1410). The legend
says that it was presented as a
gift in 1549, by Sigismund
August to Barbora Radvilaitė, a
year before their marriage. After
her death in 1551, the castle fell
into ruin and was rebuilt as a
manor house in the 17th century Merchants’ houses lining the square of the Old Town, Kėdainiai
by the Tyszkiewicz family. Its
library and collection of reassembled. The rolling country- Its colourful Old Town has a
paintings were lost during side overlooking Lake Kaunas series of elaborately gabled
World War I. A chapel close by creates a perfect backdrop. merchants’ houses in the main
contains the Tyszkiewicz tombs square. Close by, the Renaissance-
that survived the 20th century. R Zapyškis Church style Town Hall dates from 1654
15 km (9 miles) W of town. and holds Kėdainiai’s admin-
One of Lithuania’s loveliest istrative offices. In another
buildings, the triangular red- square, two synagogues dating
brick Gothic Zapyškis Church from 1837 stand side by side.
is set in a field by the They were once used by the
Nemunas river. Built in the town’s thriving Jewish commu-
16th century, it has remained nity. Another synagogue, now
miraculously intact despite the Multicultural Centre, holds
invasions and occupations. a museum on Kėdainiai’s
cultural history.
e Kėdainiai Environs
Paberžė, 30 km (19 miles)
Road Map D5. * 54,000. £ from
A red manor with manicured lawns Kaunas, Vilnius. @ from Kaunas, Vilnius. north of Kėdainiai, with its
at Raudondvaris n Didžiosios rinkos 6, (347) 56 900. delightful wooden church,
_ Cucumber Festival (Jul), Broma was the residence of Father
R Pažaislis Monastery Jazz Festival (Aug), Ice Cream Festival Stanislovas (1918–2005), a
7 km (4 miles) E of town. Tel (37) 458 (Aug). ∑ kedainiutvic.lt revered Tolstoyan hermit and
868. Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri, Capuchin friar.
10am–4pm Sat. With a history as a trading town
One of Eastern Europe’s great on the route between Kaunas E Multicultural Centre
Baroque monuments, Pažaislis and Rīga, Kėdainiai was first men- Senoji rinka 12. Tel (347) 51 778.
Monastery and its central, cupola- tioned in written sources in 1372. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
domed Church of the Visitation
of the Blessed Virgin Mary were
constructed by Italian architects M K Čiurlionis (1875–1911)
in the 17th century. There is finely A tortured soul and artistic genius, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis is
detailed stucco work inside the Lithuania’s most famous painter and composer. He started out as a
church and in the corridors of the prodigious composer of atmospheric symphonic and organ works, but
monastery, much of it framing at the age of 27 he began to study drawing. The next nine years were
intricate frescoes painted by the filled with feverish creativity.
Italian artist Michelangelo Palloni. Before his early death from
pneumonia, he had created
E Rumšiškės Open-Air
around 300 works of music,
painting and poetry. Many of his
Museum
mystical paintings mirrored his
L Lekavičiaus 2, 15 km (9 miles) E of
musical compositions and some
town. Tel (346) 47 392. Open May–Sep:
were named as pieces of music,
10am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–
such as Spring Sonata (1907) and
4pm (park only). & 8 7 ∑ llbm.lt
Funeral Symphony (1903). Despite
At Rumšiškės Open-Air Museum, their melancholy, Čiurlionis’s
traditional thatched farmsteads painted and musical works can be Painting by Čiurlionis, displayed at the
and other elements of village surprisingly uplifting. M K Čiurlionis Art Museum
life have been carefully
Trakai’s fairytale castle, an island stronghold
268 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
y Rokiškis
Road Map D4. * 35,000. £ from
Panevėžys. @ from Panevėžys, Vilnius.
n Nepriklausomybès 8, (458) 52 261
or (458) 51 044. _ Lake Sartai Horse
Race (first Sat in Feb). ∑ rokiskiotic.lt
t Biržai
Road Map D4. * 28,000.
@ from Panevėžys. n J Janonio 2,
(450) 33 496. ∑ birzai.lt
Šeimatis
Lake
Mokas Stones Utenas
Lake
Tauragnas Lake
Taurapilis, one of Utenykštis
Stripeikiai
Ginuciai
Watermill
Lake
Pakasas
J
. Ladakalnis Hill
The best panoramic view
of the park can be
experienced from the hill
above Lake Linkmenas.
The area is noted for its
mesmerizing greenery
and clear lakes.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Beekeeping
Lithuanians have a long and Practical Information
enduring history of apiculture. Road Map D5.
Forest beekeeping, in which n Park Headquarters and Visitors’
bees lived in tree hollows and Centre, Palušė, (386) 53 135.
their keepers mounted elaborate 8 on foot or by bus, offered at
climbing apparatus to collect the the Park Headquarters. Rowing
honey, was widely practised in boats and canoes can be hired
the Middle Ages when beeswax during summer. - ∑ anp.lt
and honey were vital to the ∑ paluse.lt
economy. In the 15th century,
a law was passed to prosecute Transport
£ from Ignalina.
Unusually shaped beehives at the people who harmed the bees,
@ from Ignalina.
Beekeeping Museum or the trees.
Pabaluoše Trainiškis
In the village of Trainiškis
stands a mighty tree believed
to be more than 800 years old
J Trainškis Vaišniūnai and said to have once been a
site of pagan sacrifices.
Valčių
Pervežimas
Lake
Dringis
Lake
J Asalnai Gaveikėnai
Ignalina
Lake
Lūšiai Valčių Pervežimas Water Trail
Visitors can rent a boat for a circular
Palušé
trip around the park from lake to
lake, going via Valčių Pervežimas,
the water trail that links Lake
Baluošas and Lake Dringis.
Key
Main road
Other road
Railway
Trail
Gaveikėnai Watermill Water trail
One of several original watermills in the park,
Gaveikėnai Watermill was built around 1800. Park boundary
Today, it houses a café. Peak
WESTERN LITHUANIA
Isolated for centuries, the little towns and villages of Žemaitija,
the local name for the low-lying land of Western Lithuania, have
a mystical atmosphere. Rustic wooden farmsteads and
settlements are nestled between knolls and marshes.
Klaipėda and Šiauliai are charming cities with distinct
surroundings characterized by tiny, hidden lanes
with a surfeit of cafés and museums.
Pretty wooden houses along a street in Nida, a village in the Curonian Spit National Park
Boldly coloured weather vanes, Klaipėda
274 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
7 Raudonė
8 Panemunė
a la
Tūbausiai S Rainiai
9 Jurbarkas PLUNGĖ Žlibinai
0 Telšiai PALANGA Kartena Žarėnai
q Mažeikiai KRETINGA Stalgėnai
w Plateliai
ja
M ini
e
r Plungė Varniai
D an
Giruliai Rietavas
y Klaipėda pp284–5 Vežalčiai ra
Lake
Gargždai Ait Lūkstas
u Kretinga
a
Jūr
i Palanga KLAIPĖDA
o Smiltynė
Veivirżėnai
a Šilutė SMILTYNE Mickai Kvėdarna
Ka
Priekulė
ipe d
Šilalė
L PA R K
Ašva
o
2 Hill of Crosses
sK
an Pajūris
al Saugos nys
e Orvidas Garden Tene
Curonian
ONIA
Lagoon Pagramantis
IONA
ŠILUTĖ
N AT
0 km 20
0 miles 20
Getting Around
The A1 motorway between Kaunas and Klaipėda is the fastest east–
west route across the region. Buses serve the region well, and good
bases from which to explore it are Palanga, Kaunas, Šiauliai and
Klaipėda. Trains offer a less flexible means of transport, and even the
Kaunas–Klaipėda line makes a detour via Šiauliai. The regional airport,
at Palanga, provides international connections, most notably with the
transit hubs of Copenhagen and Rīga.
Rīga
Žagarė
Kriukai
Naujoji Skaistgirys Žeimelis
Akmenė
Dameliai
Joniškis
Pašvitinys
Ven Venta Kinkiai
t Linkuva
a
Pamūšis
Meškuičiai Muš
lpe
Z ižma
a
Ku
Laikšės Sidariai
Be
Duby
Užventis Key
rže
Siaulėnai Motorway
Šiniša
Kiaunoriai
Main road
Karklėnai
Secondary road
Kražiai Kelmė TYTUVĖNAI
Grinkiškis Minor road
ŠILUVA Railway
Vosiliškis
Katauskiai International border
Nemakščiai
Upyna
Ilgiżiai
RASEINIAI
Skaudvilė
a
Arči
Ariogala
irza
Beb
Pašaltuonys
Šimkaičiai Juodaičiai
Erżvilkas
va
Stakiai ku
Ki
Eičiai
RAUDONĖ
M
Veliuona
itu
Kaunas
va
Nemunas
JURBARKAS Gelgaudiškis
Lukšiai
Slavikai
Šakiai
Griškabudis
N ova
Kudirkos Marijampolė
Naumiestis
Old bicycle outside the Bicycle Museum, a part of the Aušra Museum R Cathedral of Sts Peter
and Paul
E Aušra Museum 140. Tel (41) 524 395. Open 10am–6pm Aušros Takas 3. Tel (41) 528 077.
Aušra Avenue Palace: Aušros 47. Tel (41) Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 5 7am, 7:30am, 5pm, 6pm Mon–
8 times vary. ∑ ausrosmuziejus.lt Fri; 8am, 10am, 5pm, 6pm Sat; 8am,
524 391. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
Bicycle Museum: Vilniaus 139. Tel (41) The Aušra Museum, founded in 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 6pm Sun.
524 395. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 1923, is the oldest museum A church has stood on this spot
11am–5pm Sat & Sun. Chaim Frenkel in the city. It was named in since 1445 and the precise loca-
Villa: Vilniaus 74. Tel (41) 524 389. Open honour of the first Lithuanian tion of the earlier wooden place
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & newspaper. The museum is a of worship is marked by a metal
Sun. Photography Museum: Vilniaus treasure trove of art and culture cross. The old church was
Ė
Šiauliai
TV
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ER
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E Cat Museum
Žuvininkų 18. Tel 6836 9844.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
With almost 10,000 exhibits,
not just from Lithuania but Collection of crosses in all shapes and sizes at the Hill of Crosses
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp330–31
278 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
Façade of the Neo-Gothic castle at the Raudonė estate, seen from across its lush grounds
E Mažeikiai Museum
V Kudirkos 6. Tel (443) 26 037. Open
8am–5pm Mon–Thu (until 3:45 Fri). &
Y Kamanos State Reserve
Tel (425) 59 285. & 8
E Pharmacy Museum
Tilto 3. Tel (443) 37 420.
Rainiai Chapel of Suffering, commemorating the massacre in 1941 Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp330–31
WESTERN LITHUANIA 281
Environs
About 2,236 of Plungė’s jews
died in the Holocaust. Much of
the killing took place in Kaušėnai,
a village 4 km (2 miles) west of
town. Here, a series of moving
wooden sculptures have been
Boats on the eastern shore of Lake Plateliai, bordering Plateliai village carved by Jacob Bunka (b.1922),
chairman of Plungė’s 13-member
w Plateliai creatures, carvings and rock Jewish community.
Road Map B4. * 1,000. @ from
paintings of pagan and religious Gandinga Hill, 5 km (3 miles)
Plungė. n Didžioji 8, (448) 49 231. imagery, painted missile shells southwest of Plungė, offers a
_ Shrove Tuesday Carnival (Feb/Mar). and a disused Soviet tank. panoramic view of the Žemaitija
Hidden gardens appear out of forests. A fortress, Gandinga,
The administrative centre of nowhere and there is no set once stood here, built as a
Žemaitija National Park (see path, adding to the maze-like defence against the Teutonic
pp282–3), Plateliai is a sleepy feel. The dark caverns conceal Knights. Pagan burial grounds
lakeside village. It has the further oddities, and a pond- dating from the 9th century
wooden Church of Sts Peter side hut hidden among trees is have been discovered nearby.
and Paul (1744) and a park that reputedly the home of pixies Another remarkable outdoor
was the grounds of a manor. and gnomes. museum is the Museum of
The Witch’s Ash, Lithuania’s big- Unique Rocks in Mosėdis, 40 km
gest ash tree, which stands in (25 miles) northwest of Plungė.
the park, has many legends r Plungė Exhibits range from a display of
attached to it. One involves Road Map C5. * 39,000. fossils and rock fragments inside
a baker who threw a loaf of £ from Šiauliai, Klaipėda. @ from a restored watermill to a park
bread at a witch sitting on Šiauliai, Klaipėda. n Dariaus ir Gireno full of mossy boulders and
its branches. The loaf is still 27, (448) 55 108. ∑ visitplunge.lt crude stone sculptures. The
visible – the knobbly bit museum was founded in 1979
where the branches divide. The town of Plungė is the by Dr Vaclovas Intas.
Across the road on Didžioji main gateway to Žemaitija
Street, elaborate Shrovetide National Park (see pp282–3). E Žemaičiai Art Museum
masks are displayed in the One of Lithuania’s most opulent Parko 1. Tel (448) 52 492.
manor barn. These are worn manors, the well-preserved Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
during the Shrove Tuesday Plungė Manor was built by E Museum of Unique Rocks
Carnival. The most popular Mykolas Oginskis, a descendant Salantų 2. Tel (440) 76 291. Open
sight is Castle Island, which of a family of Lithuanian nobles. 8am–6pm (10am–6pm Sat & Sun).
takes its name from a fortress It includes 16 sculptures of Closed Nov–Apr: Sat & Sun. & 8
that stood on the nearest
island of Pilies.
e Orvidas Garden
Orvidų sodyba-muziejus
Road Map B4. Tel (613) 28 624.
Open June: 10am–7pm Tue–Sun,
July–May: 10am–7pm Wed–Sun. &
Mikytai
Pūčkoriai
Visvainiai
Virkšai
. Mikytai Hill and Devil’s Footprint Stone
The forest-covered “sacred hill” of Mikytai is believed by
local people to be haunted. On the hill’s northern
slope, the Devil’s Footprint Stone was once used for
pagan sacrifices.
Lake
Plateliai Plateliai
Beržoras
Lake
Beržoras
Church of St
Lake Ilgis
Stanislav in
Beržoras
This church (1746) Grigaičiai
is made of spruce
Godeliai
logs. Its Chapels of
Salantai
the Cross were
destroyed by the
Babrungènai
Soviets but restored
in 2001.
KEY
Mill-Gallery
1 Godeliai has a rare collection A stone watermill,
of obscure paintings and converted into a Plunge
crucifixes in its Museum of folk art gallery,
Folk Art. stands in the
2 Plateliai serves as the riverside village of
park’s main service and infor- Babrungėnai, once
mation centre. famed for its
beaver hunters.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp330–31
WESTERN LITHUANIA 283
Mound of Šarnelė
Žemaičių
Kalvarija Excavations on this
hill, in Šarnelė village,
have revealed that it
Gegrenai was a small fortified
town in the third
century BC.
Skurvydai
Platakiai
Plokštine
E Blacksmiths’ Museum
Šaltkalvių 2a. Tel (46) 410 526.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 4pm
Fri). & 8
Black metal crosses, fences and
cemetery gates in a garden
beside an old working smithy
are among this museum’s
exhibits. Some of the crosses
Visitors and local people relaxing in cafés in Klaipėda were rescued from destruction
when the Sculpture Park
Ännchen of Tharau the original Ännchen of Tharau replaced the city’s main ceme-
Teatro aikštė. statue, made by local artists, tery in the 1970s. Lithuania’s
The heart of Klaipėda’s Old Town was placed in the middle of cross-crafting tradition, in metal
is Theatre Square. A statue the fountain. and in wood, was recognized by
called Ännchen of Tharau, which UNESCO in 2001.
stands in front of the theatre, is E Castle Museum
the focal point of the fountain Pilies 4. Tel (46) 410 527. Open 10am
dedicated to Simon Dach –5pm Tue–Sat (to 4pm Fri). &
(1605–59), one of the city’s Not much remains of the
distinguished personalities. Born 17th-century castle that houses
in Klaipėda, then known as the Castle Museum. The castle
Memel, Dach became a was built on the foundations
leading Prussian poet from of the 1252 fortress when
the late 1630s until his Memel was part of the Duchy
death. He is well known of Prussia. In 2002, an
throughout Germany for exhibition opened inside
his songs, hymns and one of the ramparts,
dialect poems, such as illustrating the develop-
Ännchen of Tharau, written ment of the fortress and the
in 1637. city. The exhibits on display
The original statue was include authentic furniture
created in 1912, but it and re-created models. The Old wooden clock inside the exceptional
mysteriously vanished on highlight is a Renaissance- Clock Museum
the eve of World War II. era gold ring encrusted
Adolf Hitler made a with diamonds. Today, this E Clock Museum
speech from the theatre castle has become one Liepų 12. Tel (46) 410 414; 410 413
balcony behind its of the most recog- (excursions). Open noon–6pm Tue–
original location, on nized symbols Sat, noon–5pm Sun. & 8
23 March 1939. In Statue of Ännchen of Tharau in associated with A fascinating insight into the
1989, a replica of Theatre Square modern Klaipėda. development of man’s attempts
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp330–31
WESTERN LITHUANIA 285
to measure time, from sundials near Königsberg and settled VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to atomic clocks, is the focus of in South Africa in 1949. Heavily
this unique museum. The Clock influenced by the Norwegian Practical Information
Museum was opened in 1984 Symbolist painter Edvard Road Map B5. * 180,000.
inside a villa built in 1820 by Munch (1863–1944), Domšaitis n Turgaus 7, (46) 412 186.
John Simpson, an English won recognition for his art in _ Klaipėda Jazz Festival (mid-
merchant. Reconstructions of inter-war Germany and later in Jul), Sea Festival (late Jul).
∑ klaipedainfo.lt
ancient calendars, sun, fire, South Africa. The gallery exhibits
water and sand clocks, and 20th-century Lithuanian art as Transport
timepieces showing the well as a permanent exhibition £ Priestočio gatvė 1. @
changes in the faces and of works by Domšaitis. Priestočio gatvė. g New Port,
mechanisms of clocks from Dedicated to the author of Nemuno 8, (46) 365 018, (46) 311
Renaissance times form the bulk the first Lithuanian book, 117; Old Port, Danės 1, 86203
of the exhibits. Martynas Mažvydas (1510–63), 4561, (46) 311 117. Jun–Aug:
The pleasant courtyard, the Sculpture Park is situated 6:30pm–2:15am daily, Sep–May:
featuring a large sundial, is a behind the gallery. Until the at least hourly 6:30pm–2am.
popular venue for music, dance 1970s it was the site reserved
and poetry evenings. The house for the city’s cemetery. It covers and intriguing sculptures by
next door was built by another almost 10 ha (25 acres) and is various artists. New works are
English merchant and indus- scattered mainly with abstract added to the park each year.
trialist, Mae Lean. In 1905, it
was reconstructed in the Art
Nouveau style. The Neo-Gothic
post office close by is another
striking building in the
neighbourhood.
Sculpture Park
SK
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Castle Museum
Car Ferry
1 km (0.6 mile)
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
The main highlights are the for German troops after 1944, and ice melt, 20 per cent of the
regular dolphin and sea lion and was an official unit of the delta gets flooded, attracting
shows. Permits must be Gulag from 1948 to 1955. 200 species of birds to breed,
purchased for photography. Today, it comprises the Macikai while hundreds of other species
Concentration Camp Museum migrate through the area every
E Sea Museum and a grave site. year. A bird ringing station at
Smiltynės 3. Tel (46) 492 250. Ventė is one of the oldest in
Open Oct–Apr: 10:30am–5pm E Šilutė Museum Europe, dating from 1929.
Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 10:30am–6pm Lietuvininkų 36. Tel (441) 62 207. The floods annually threaten
Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug: to 6:30pm). & Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8 to cut off Rusnė, located 11 km
8 - = ∑ muziejus.lt E Macikai Concentration (7 miles) southeast of Ventė.
Camp Museum A Lutheran church, built from
Macikai. Tel (441) 62 207. 1809 to 1827, is a sign of Rusnė’s
pCuronian Spit Open mid-May–Oct: 11am–3pm East Prussian background. It was
National Park Tue–Sat. 8 changed into a sports hall in
See pp288–9.
the Soviet period, but reverted
to receiving congregations
s Nemunas Delta in 1994. An ethnographic
a Šilutė Road Map B5. * 1,700.
farmstead gives a snapshot of
@ from Šilutė. ∑ nemunodelta.lt past life in the delta region.
Road Map B5. * 21,500.
£ from Klaipėda. @ from Klaipėda. Almost 8 km (5 miles)
n Lietuvininkų 4, Parko 2, (441) 77 The low-lying delta of the northwest from Rusnė is the
785. ∑ siluteinfo.lt Nemunas, Lithuania’s largest village of Minija, situated where
river as it streams into the the Minija river meets the
Originally the site of an inn Curonian Lagoon, has great Nemunas Delta. The river serves
for travellers riding between potential for outdoor activities. as the main thoroughfare in
Klaipėda and Kaliningrad, Šilutė The wetlands, protected as a the village. Protected as
became a part of the German regional park, are a popular spot architectural monuments,
Empire in 1871. It was seized by for angling and bird-watching. 19th-century wooden houses
Lithuania in 1923, but annexed Every spring, when the snow stand on both riverbanks.
by Nazi Germany 15 years later.
German influence is still
visible in the low, red-tiled roofs
of the public buildings. On tree-
lined Lietuvininkų Street, the
tiny Šilutė Museum displays
18th-century furniture and
folk-themed exhibits. The
Evangelical Lutheran Church,
built in 1926, is decorated with
startlingly colourful murals of
biblical scenes.
Environs
Just 3 km (2 miles) northeast of
Šilutė, Macikai was used as a
German prisoner-of-war camp
from 1939, then a Soviet camp The Nemunas Delta countryside, near Šilutė
288 LITHUANIA REGION BY REGION
elk, foxes and wild boars. The dunes that tower over the Nida
village of Nida fall like cliffs into the Curonian Lagoon and
villages have been buried beneath the shifting sands. The
Curonian Spit National Park was created in 1991 to preserve Key
the dunes, lagoons and surrounding area. The national park, Curonian Spit National Park
which covers most of the spit, has been a UNESCO World
Heritage Site since 2000.
. Nida
The highly characteristic red-and-blue
fishermen’s cottages in Nida have
remained unchanged for centuries. Some
ancient weatherbeaten fishing boats lie in
the gardens outside the cottages.
Baltic Beach
The entire length of the spit on the
side of the Baltic Sea is one long
sandy beach. Areas adjacent to the
a
Preila
. Parnidis Dune
Looming 52 m (171 ft) above Nida Vecekrug Dune, the
Nida, Parnidis (Great) Dune offers highest wooded dune
stunning views and is one of the (67.2 m/220.5 ft), is
highest points on the spit. A bypassed by taking
sundial was erected here in 1995. the cycling track.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–307 and pp 330–31
WESTERN LITHUANIA 289
Dead Dunes
These once-shifting
dunes are now held in
place with vegetation
and offer a sanctuary to
birds, animals and plants.
Paths stretch from
Avikalnio Dune in the
north to Agilo Dune
in the south.
Forest Trails
It is possible to walk or cycle
the entire length of the spit.
The path, indicated by the
dotted red line on the map,
Prevalka takes visitors past isolated
stretches of sandy beach.
0 km 2
0 miles 2
Shifting Dunes
In the 17th century, when
the forests on the Curonian
Spit were cut down to fuel
industry and supply constant
military campaigns, the
mountainous dunes were released.
In the Baltic winds, the sand
started to shift up to 20 m (66 ft) Parnidis Dune, seen from the harbour
Key a year in places, burying entire at Nida
villages. It was not until the
Main road 19th century, when a vast number of trees were planted to
Trail reforest the area, that the moving dunes were stopped.
Ferry route
WHERE TO STAY
The Baltic States offer every form of accom early autumn. In smaller towns and the
modation, from luxury hotels and citycentre countryside, it is very easy to find a place to
hostels to rural guesthouses and lakeside spa stay for the night. Booking is straightforward
complexes. Although there is an abundance as even the smallest guesthouses have
of goodquality midrange and budget stay their own website and are advertised
options in the three capital cities of Tallinn, through several other sources as well. The
Rīga and Vilnius, it is still advisable to book in recommended options on pages 296–307
advance during late spring, summer and will help you get your hotel search started.
Modern Hotels
Affordable, good-quality
accommodation is readily
available throughout Estonia,
Latvia and Lithuania. There is a
wide choice of modern hotel
accommodation in the mid-
price range in all areas within
The thatched guesthouse at Toomalõuka Tourist Farm, Saaremaa Island, Estonia (see p298) the three Baltic States.
Most of the larger towns and
Booking hotel there are significant cities provide a variety of modern
Reservations can be made by discounts during the off-season hotels, although only a handful
telephone, email, through months. It is also worth keeping are located in the Old Town
hotel websites, and via online an eye out for special offers and areas of Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius.
reservation sites such as discounts, or package deals. Most of the hotels can be found
booking.com. For more out-of- either downtown or in slightly
the-way locations, there are more peripheral locations. The
specialist tour operators as well Tipping quality of modern hotels can
as websites run by local tourist Generally, it is not customary vary considerably so it is always
authorities and associations of to tip taxi drivers, bar staff sensible to do some research
hotel business owners. Local and porters in the Baltic States. prior to booking, such as
tourist information offices can As a rule of thumb though, tip checking the website and some
also book rooms, and can be those who provide you with independent guest reviews.
helpful if upon arrival you find especially good service.
most hotels are booked up.
Luxury Hotels
Prices and Payment Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius have
It is advisable to confirm accept- a large range of luxury hotels,
able modes of payment prior to some of which attract heads of
arriving, especially for rural areas, state and other VIPs. Often these
although all major hotels accept hotels are in historic buildings
the principal credit cards for that have been converted to
payment. Visitors should be provide state-of-the-art facilities
aware of what is included in the while retaining their original
advertised rate. Many hotels features. There are also several
include breakfast and the use superb hotels that are run by
of amenities such as a fitness the big international hotel
centre, while other facilities, groups, such as the Radisson Blu
including saunas, can cost extra. Astorija Hotel in Vilnius (see p305)
Pricing structures vary and Europa Royale Rīga (see p300).
considerably from country Even in the swankiest hotels
to country and from hotel to in the Baltic States, swimming Corner entrance of the Kolonna Hotel,
hotel, but across many types of pools remain something of a Rēzekne, Latvia (see p303)
Pleasant town-square garden, Tallinn
W H E R E TO S TAY 293
Hostels
The first accommodation choice
for young travellers on a tight
budget, hostels were once few
and far between in the Baltic
States. With the growth in
tourism, even at the budget
end, backpackers and other
travellers looking for sociable
Pädaste Manor, housed in a 16th-century farmhouse on Muhu Island, Estonia (see p297) and affordable accommodation
are now well served throughout
Apartments and modelled on rustic-style timber the three countries.
Private Homes buildings and have become an Most hostels are of a decent
Apartment rental is an excellent integral part of the Baltic coun- standard and have beds in
accommodation option that is tryside. They invariably offer a communal dormitories for
comparatively under-used in the range of activities for guests, reasonable rates, as well as a
Baltic States. Several agencies such as swimming, sports and small selection of private rooms,
in the capital cities offer this saunas, and the owners can offered for considerably less
service – Erel Apartments & sometimes arrange guided than the average hotel rate.
Residences and Goodson tours of local sights. Meals are Hostels also offer a range of
& Red Apartments in Tallinn, usually optional, but a hearty, amenities, including at least
Lilija Plus Real Estate Agency home-made breakfast or dinner Internet access, kitchen facilities
in Rīga and Barbacan costs less than similar fare and a common room, and
Apartments and Eugenijus in a local restaurant. extending to licensed bars,
Apartments in Vilnius. Also The choice of rural guest- sightseeing tours and, in the
available in some other major houses is enormous throughout case of the Red Emperor in
cities, apartments can be opulent the Baltic States and their Tallinn (see p296), live music
or spartan, but in general most availability extends to the most and a skateboard ramp.
are of a high standard. Most remote areas of each country. Many hostels are privately run
agency-managed apartments Bookings can be made through and you'll find some of these
are in central locations. Rates are their websites or via the rural listed on pages 296–307. Others
usually very competitive and the tourism association – Estonian are affiliated with the worldwide
apartments often provide better Rural Tourism in Estonia, Baltic network of youth hostel
facilities than those offered at a Country Holidays in Latvia associations, Hostelling
hotel in the same price range. and Countryside Tourism International. Membership is
Numerous properties are also Association in Lithuania. required to stay at one of these
listed on vacation rental sites Rural tourism has become hostels, but joining is cheap and
such as Airbnb. such a popular sector in the can be done while booking.
Guesthouses
In major cities, guesthouses are
small, moderately priced hotels,
sometimes family-run, of eight
to twenty rooms. They can be
convenient places to stay, with
many right in the old centres,
and often in older buildings
with a little character.
In rural areas, guesthouses
can be the best form of lodging,
offering cosy, clean accommo-
dation at very reasonable rates.
Most rural guesthouses tend to
be built close to a family home,
so a personal touch is assured.
Aesthetically, they are loosely Understated suite in Rīga‘s stylish Neiburgs Hotel (see p301)
294 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Children
Children are amply catered for
in nearly all hotels and guest-
houses in all three countries. A
number of hotels have rooms
designed for families travelling
with children. If not, then most
hotels gladly provide extra beds
for children. Many rural guest-
houses offer special play areas
and activities for children and
most decent hotels can provide
cots for very young children,
while babysitting services are
Swimming pool at Vanagupe hotel at the beach resort of Palanga, Lithuania (see p307) becoming increasingly
common. Some larger hotels
Camp Sites Hidden Extras offer special family rates that
Camping is an extremely Most decent hotels in cities include a number of family-
popular summer activity in throughout the three Baltic oriented excursions.
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. States operate in a transparent
As a result, there are a number manner and will not add any
of camp sites scattered hidden extras to the bill. Smoking
throughout each of the Baltic However, it is worth checking In keeping with the ban on
countries. These are usually very the cost of drinks from the smoking in public places in
cheap and offer basic amenities minibar and calls made from the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania,
such as communal showers and hotel room telephone, before all hotels prohibit smoking in
an on-site pub-style restaurant. using either of these services – their public areas. Smoking is
However, not all camps are the price is often exorbitant. In not allowed in lobbies and
equipped with washing smaller hotels, it is a good idea restaurants, although some
facilities and toilet blocks. to find out if breakfast is larger hotels provide special
National parks have official included in the room rate. smoking zones. These zones
camping spots, which are free Rural guesthouses tend to can be recognized by a green
of charge. Many commercial be peculiarly reticent about the smoking-allowed symbol.
camp sites also offer basic cabin
accommodation, sometimes
with kitchen facilities.
In general, there is a very
relaxed attitude towards
camping in the Baltic States
and people often camp
alongside beaches and lakes
and in forests at improvised
camp sites. Many guesthouses
allow campers to pitch a tent in
their grounds for a nominal fee.
For camping on private pro-
perty, however, it is imperative
to obtain permission from the
owner beforehand.
A full list of camp sites can
be found on national tourism
websites (see p365) and rural
tourism websites. In Estonia,
RMK is an efficient organization
that arranges camping. Well-appointed room at the Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel in Vilnius (see p305)
W H E R E TO S TAY 295
DIRECTORY
Apartments and
Private Homes
Airbnb
∑ airbnb.com
Barbacan Apartments
Vilnius.
Tel +370 6151 2688.
∑ barbacan.lt
OTEPÄÄ: Pühajärve Spa & interesting example of Stalinist VILJANDI: Just Rest
Holiday Resort €€ Neo-Baroque architecture. The Automatic Hostel €
Spa hotel Road Map E2 rooms are spacious, but rather Hostel Road Map D2
Pühajärve, 67414 dated and sparsely furnished. Ranna puiestee 6, 71003
Tel 766 5500 Tel 520 6772
∑ pyhajarve.com SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Haanjamehe ∑ justrest.eu
In a beautiful location, this hotel Talu € A fantastic hostel with automated
offers a range of wellness and Guesthouse Road Map E2 check-in and space-age styling.
beauty treatments, as well as Vakari village, Haanja parish, 65101 Rooms with one to four beds have
billiards, a bowling alley, a gym Tel 786 6043 bathrooms and secure lockers.
and a large pool. ∑ haanjamehetalu.ee
This cosy log-built farmstead VILJANDI: Grand
PÕLTSAMAA: Guesthouse Carl offers accommodation in Hotel Viljandi €€
Schmidt € converted granaries or in the Modern Road Map D2
Guesthouse Road Map D2 main house. Activities include Tartu 11, 71004
Kesk 4, 48105 local excursions, kayaking Tel 435 5800
Tel 5346 8303 and – depending on the ∑ ghv.ee
This well-run establishment in the season – sleigh or carriage rides. An opulent hotel in an Art Deco
town centre has its own pub and building with classically styled
a delightfully rustic interior. rooms and good fitness facilities. A
Rooms are on the small side, but DK Choice morning sauna session is included.
the friendly service compensates. TAEVASKOJA: Taevaskoja
Salamaa € VÕRU: Hämsaare Guesthouse €
PÕLVA: Hotel Pesa € Guesthouse Road Map E2 Guesthouse Road Map E2
Modern Road Map E2 Taevaskoja tee 32, Põlva parish, Meegomäe village, 65603
Uus 5, 63308 63229 Tel 5551 5759
Tel 799 8530 Tel 5345 6480 ∑ hamsa.ee
∑ kagureis.ee ∑ salamaa.eu This 19th-century log farmhouse
The congenial Hotel Pesa has Tucked away in the woods, is now an idyllic lodging with
comfortable rooms and a large this simple, peaceful guest- cosy rooms and a rustic tavern
pool with separate children’s pool. house makes for the perfect serving traditional Estonian fare.
Local excursions can be arranged. rural retreat. Rooms are
individually furnished with folk- VÕRU: Kubija Hotel and
RAKVERE: Hotell Wesenbergh € tale themes and, with families Nature Spa €
Modern Road Map D1 in mind, come with bunk beds. Spa hotel Road Map E2
Tallinna 25, 44311 Alternatively, visitors can pitch a Männiku 43a, 65603
Tel 322 3480 tent at the campsite. There’s a Tel 504 5745
∑ wesenbergh.ee large shared kitchen and a great ∑ kubija.ee
Named after the local castle, this outdoor play area complete This tranquil hotel in a forest has
hotel is smartly furnished to a with trampoline and swings. five pools, four saunas and an
high standard. Several rooms Kayaking, cycling and hiking are abundance of wellness treatments.
come with a private sauna. among the activities on offer. Remarkably good value.
GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Spa some with self-catering facilities, SAULKRASTI: Medzābaki €
Hotel Ezeri €€ on Lake Cirma. There is a common Guesthouse Road Map D3
Spa hotel Road Map D3 kitchen and living area with sauna. Medzābaki-2, Lilaste, LV-2163
Siguldas parish, LV-2150 Tel 2009 6060
Tel 6797 3009 LUDZA: Lucia € ∑ lilaste.eu
∑ hotelezeri.lv Modern Road Map E3 A wonderful thatched-roof guest-
A well-run spa hotel set in several Kr. Barona 20-1, LV-5701 house on Lake Lilaste with bright,
acres of gardens. Guests can Tel 2625 3535 spacious rooms facing the water.
enjoy a wide variety of wellness ∑ lucia.lv Holiday cottages are available too.
treatments as well as the chance One of the few central options,
to plunge into an icy pond this brightly decorated hotel has SAULKRASTI: Pie Maijas €
following their sauna. large, clean rooms, a café serving Guesthouse Road Map D3
light meals, and helpful staff. Murjāņu 3, LV-2160
IKŠĶILE: Spadrops € Tel 2940 5480
Modern Road Map D3 PREIĻI: Pie Pliča € ∑ hotelmaija.lv
Rīgas 18 , LV-5052 Historic Road Map E4 An idyllic spot with self-catering
Tel 2643 0430 Raiņa bulvāris 9, LV-5301 cabins tucked away in the trees,
∑ spadrops.lv Tel 2912 1689 just a short walk from the beach.
A well-appointed hotel and This peaceful establishment was Rooms are adequately furnished
recreation centre outside Rīga, the town’s first hospital. Today it’s and there’s a large garden with a
with a good restaurant (see p324), a well-regarded guesthouse with children’s play area.
a pool, a sauna, cycling, hiking characterful rooms and a sauna.
trails and croquet. STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €
RĀZNA: Rāzna Hotel € Guesthouse Road Map E3
KOKNESE: Orinoko € Modern Road Map E4 Skolas 1, LV-4406
Guesthouse Road Map D4 v. "Astici", Kaunata parish, LV-4622 Tel 2922 5805
Beģēni, Kokneses parish, LV-5113 Tel 2999 4444 ∑ vonadzini.lv
Tel 2663 7918 ∑ razna.lv This thatched-roof hotel has
∑ orinoko.lv On Lake Rāzna, this large pleasant rooms overlooking Lake
This small guesthouse in a recreation centre has smartly Ludza. It offers a wide range of
picturesque location has bright, furnished rooms, self-catering recreational activities.
airy rooms with river views. villas and excellent facilities.
Activities include motorboat VALMIERA: Wolmar €
trips, badminton and volleyball. RĒZEKNE: Kolonna Hotel € Modern Road Map D3
Modern Road Map E4 Tērbatas 16a, LV-4201
KRĀSLAVA: Priedaine € Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6420 7301
Guesthouse Road Map E4 Tel 6460 7820 ∑ hotelwolmar.lv
Klusā 2, LV-5601 ∑ hotelkolonna.com A large, central hotel that’s a short
Tel 2643 0798 An unpretentious hotel with a walk from the main tourist sights,
A popular guesthouse on the good restaurant (see p325) and Wolmar offers spacious rooms
banks of the Daugava river, just summer terrace overlooking the with walk-in showers. Facilities
outside the town centre, Priedaine river, and attentive service. There include sauna and Jacuzzi.
has spotless rooms with basic is a generous breakfast buffet.
furnishings and river views. VALMIERA: Dikli Palace Hotel €€
SALACGRĪVA: Kapteinu Osta €€ Luxury Road Map D3
Guesthouse Road Map D3 Dikļi parish, Kocēnu district, LV-4223
DK Choice Pērnavas 49a, LV-4033 Tel 6420 7480
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ Tel 6402 4930 ∑ diklipalacehotel.com
Luxury Road Map D3 ∑ kapteinuosta.lv Housed in a beautifully restored
Bīriņi, LV-4013 A seafront complex with spotless, 19th-century manor in wooded
Tel 6402 4033 nautically themed rooms, self- parkland, this hotel offers
∑ birinupils.lv catering cabins, and a campsite. opulent rooms, a pool, relaxing
Surrounded by acres of park- Guests can use the yacht club’s spa treatments and a stunning
land, Bīriņu manor house is a living area and sauna. restaurant (see p325).
stately Neo-Gothic building
dating from the mid-19th
century. Book a comfortable en-
suite room in the neighbouring
neighbouring
Gardener’s House or splash
out on a regal room in the
castle itself, though it’s often
booked up for weddings and
other events. There is an
excellent restaurant (see p325).
Types of Restaurants
Restaurants and cafés in the
Baltic States are locally referred
to as restoran and kohvik in
Estonia, restorāns and kafejnīca
in Latvia, and restoranas and
kavinė in Lithuania. Both types
of establishment vary widely in
the type of food they offer.
Restaurants can either be very
luxurious and modern places or
basic food-and-beer joints that
do not differ significantly from
pubs. Similarly, cafés can be
pleasant and stylish. Most of
them offer a decent but cheap
meal of hearty proportions.
Sometimes they act as a meet- Rustic styling at Estonian restaurant Kuldse Notsu Körts in Tallinn (see p315)
ing place for local drinkers. All
cafés have a good selection of are common in small towns and Big breakfasts are rare in the
alcohol on sale. Most modern in the countryside. Sometimes, Baltic States. Until quite recently,
bars often have a small but they are rustically furnished the only breakfast foods
good-quality menu which is places that offer an excellent available were pastries or
available until late. Locally run standard of traditional food pancakes. These days, however,
pubs are known as kõrts in and local beer. Fast food has restaurants offer a range of
Estonia, krogs in Latvia and not really taken off in the breakfasts, including variations
baras in Lithuania. Although rare Baltic States and can only be on the English fry-up. Lunch is
in Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius, pubs found in central locations in still the main meal of the day
the capitals. for many people. Nonetheless,
eating out has become such a
recreational habit that
Dining Hours restaurants often fill up in the
The rise in restaurant culture evenings, although people
has seen a proliferation of tend to eat early, normally
restaurants which keep similar between 6pm and 9pm.
opening hours throughout the Café culture is big in the
Baltic States. They open between Baltic States. Most cafés open
10 and 11am and close between any time from 8am to 10am
11pm and midnight. In small and close around 9pm or
towns, restaurants are more 10pm, although in small
likely to open later and close towns they often close earlier.
earlier, and in some very In more remote places,
seasonal destinations a few many cafés remain closed
restaurants are open only on Sundays. Pubs and cafés
Bright contemporary dining room at one of during summer months, always have an array of
Riga’s best restaurants, Neiburgs (see p321) closing entirely out of season. snacks available.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 309
Disabled Visitors
Few restaurants, besides the
new ones, offer easy access for
disabled people in the Baltic
States, but the situation is
improving. Tallinn is slightly
ahead of Vilnius and Rīga in this
regard. Hotel restaurants are a
good option for disabled visitors
as they have more facilities.
Smoking
Smoking in enclosed public
spaces, such as restaurants, bars,
Dining outside at Domini Canes, right at the heart of Rīga’s Old Town (see p321) clubs, hotel lobbies, buses and
trains, is banned in the Baltic
Menus somewhat lower than in other States. The only option for
English-language menus are European countries, as is the smokers is to sit at an outdoor
commonplace in the capital cost of alcoholic drinks. Prices table in the summer, although
cities and tourist resorts. In small are highest in the capital cities, some restaurants even prohibit
towns and the countryside, particularly in tourist spots. outdoor smoking. However, a
however, such menus are much Tax is always included in the few cigar bars have been
scarcer. Most people in the price. Cover charges are quite licensed to allow smoking.
Baltic States speak some English, rare, and usually only apply to
so it may be possible to ask for restaurants or bars which
help in deciphering the menu. include special live music sets. Recommended
After Russian, German is the Cafés are the most affordable Restaurants
most common language in eating option, but many only There is a broad choice of
Latvia and Estonia. Consequently, accept cash. However, credit restaurants in Estonia, Latvia
menus often come with German and debit card payment is and Lithuania, and the listings
or Russian translations. becoming common throughout on pages 314–31 cover a wide
the Baltic States. range of eateries and cuisine
types across all three Baltic
Vegetarians States. They include characterful
Meat is integral to Baltic Tipping cafés, taverns and traditional
cuisine. Although there is Tipping is a relatively new restaurants serving hearty
an increasing choice of concept in the Baltic States. national or local fare, numerous
vegetarian (vegetaarlane in Service charges are usually ethnic eateries, some vegetarian
Estonian, veģetārie in Latvian included in the bill though venues and elegant fine-dining
and vegetaras in Lithuanian) some leading restaurants add options offering international
dishes on offer in most decent a service charge to the total, or marvellously inventive
restaurants, these vegetarian which should be clearly fusion menus.
menu options are limited to indicated. Tipping is generally Throughout the listings, those
the capital cities. only expected in larger establishments that stand out
establishments with table from the crowd for their
service. The general rule is to exceptional cuisine and service,
Reservations leave 10 per cent or less of the ambience or historic or unique
Reservations are usually made total bill. Tipping in cafés and setting have been flagged as a
by phone, although in some bars is rare. DK Choice. Among these high-
cases they can be made via the lighted restaurants are some of
Internet. It is unnecessary to the Baltic States’ finest and most
make a booking for lunch, but it Children innovative dining options. A few
is sensible to reserve a table for Although children are examples are Tchaikovsky in
dinner, in a good restaurant in welcome in restaurants, only Tallinn (see p316), serving superb
one of the capital cities, a few popular chains offer Russian–French fusion cuisine,
particularly on a Friday or provisions such as half portions. DikĮu Pils in Valmiera, Latvia (see
Saturday evening. In bigger towns and cities, p325), offering modern takes of
however, menus for children local specialities made with
are becoming more common. fresh ingredients and Lithuania’s
Paying It is usually possible to arrange Uoksas restaurant in Kaunas (see
The price of eating out has for something off the menu p329), serving highly creative
increased considerably in the to be prepared to meet international dishes prepared
Baltic States, but it is still children’s needs. with the latest technologies.
310 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Dairy Produce
Dairy products feature strongly
in Baltic cuisine. Local butter
is held in high regard, while
Estonian kefir (fermented cow’s
milk), Lithuanian varškė (cheese
curd) and Latvian rūgušpiens
(curdled milk) are also very
popular. Caraway cheese is
eaten by Latvians, especially
Baked goodies at a cake shop in Rīga in midsummer. The most
ubiquitous dairy product is sour
with Scandinavian traditions. caperata, meaning “gypsy cream. A base for many Baltic
Popular freshwater fish include mushrooms”, are also picked. sauces, it is also poured directly
pike, eel and elvers. Caviar is Local apples, plums and pears on to a wide range of dishes.
also available, including the appear in fruit pies and tarts, but
relatively affordable red variety. the true fruit bounty of the ON THE MENU
region is its berries and currants.
Picking berries is a popular Kartupeļu pankūkas (Latvia)
Fruit and Vegetables summer pastime (see p359). Potato pancakes.
The Baltic climate limits the Kibinai (Lithuania) Mutton and
cultivation of fruit and onion pies, a speciality of the
vegetables, and they are not Karaim community.
strongly represented in Šližikai (Lithuania) Biscuits
traditional recipes. By far the served with poppy seed milk
most common vegetable is traditionally on Christmas Eve.
the potato, introduced in the Rosolje (Estonia) Herring,
18th century and now served meat, beetroot and apple salad,
at almost every meal. Other in a whipped cream and
accompaniments include mustard dressing.
simple salads, often just Seljanka (Estonia) and soļanka
cucumber and tomato. Mush- (Latvia) A soup made with meat,
rooms are popular and, every pickled vegetables or fish, which
autumn, people roam the forests has Russian origins.
to gather mushrooms, either to
Zrazai (Lithuania) Thin slices of
eat or to sell (see p359). Cepe is beef rolled with onion, bread and
preferred, although varieties Freshly picked redcurrants at an often mushrooms, then baked.
such as chanterelle and rozites Estonian farm
What to Drink
Beer is popular in the Baltic States and several of the region’s
breweries date back to the 19th century. Vodka is not as
popular as it was during the Soviet era, although it is still
widely drunk and both local and Russian brands are available.
The region also has some unusual spirits and liqueurs made
with herbs. Although wine-drinking does not have a
distinguished history, imported wine is available in
restaurants and many affordable local sparkling wines are
available. The most prominent traditional soft drink, kali in
Rīga Black Bobelinė,
Estonia, kvass in Latvia or gira in Lithuania, has been claimed Balsam, Latvia Lithuania
as a forerunner of strong beer. Customarily made from rye
bread and very mildly alcoholic, it is a refreshing alternative blackcurrant juice or vodka.
to aerated drinks such as cola. Specialist shops, and some
bars, also sell Latvian liqueurs
such as the caraway-flavoured
Wines stopped during the Soviet Allažu Ķimelis.
Although the Baltic States are occupation. It has been Lithuania has a range of
not a major wine-producing restarted but is very limited and herbal liqueurs, including Trejos
region, both Latvia and often the only chance to try the Devynerios. Concocted by a
Lithuania produce sparkling wine is by attending the annual pharmacist in the late 19th
wines, such as Rīga wine festival in summer. century, Trejos Devynerios was
Šampanietis and Alita listed as a legal patent medicine
Šampanas respectively. In between the two world wars.
Estonia, mulled red wine, Spirits and Liqueurs Vodka drinkers may want to try
known as hõõgvein or glögg, is The best-known Estonian Starka, which is distilled from
popular in winter. Served liqueur is the sweet-tasting rye grain, while other traditional
warm, it has a spicy taste due Vana Tallinn, which has drinks are honey-based mead
to the cinnamon and cloves ingredients such as citrus oils, and bobelinė, a liqueur made
used to flavour it. Fruit wines, cinnamon, vanilla and rum. It with cranberry juice. In rural
such as Põltsamaa Kuldne, can be drunk neat but is areas throughout the
which is made from apples, are worth trying in coffee or region, local people brew
also common. over ice cream. It is also their own, very potent,
Latvia appears in the Guinness used to make cocktails or vodka. Visitors should be
Book of World Records for the mixed with white wine or wary of this, as it is
northermost open-air vineyard champagne. Vodka is also usually of low quality and
in the world. Sabile Wine Hill popular in Estonia, and there have been cases
vineyard (Sabiles, Vīna Kalns) Viru Valge is the most where batches have
(see p182), has a long history of common local brand. In Vana Tallinn been contaminated
viniculture, but production addition to the original liqueur with methanol. In
version, it is available Lithuania, a legitimate
in flavoured varieties drink takes the name of this
such as vanilla, lemon illegal vodka, Samanė, but is not
and watermelon. as strong.
For visitors to Latvia, Rīga
Black Balsam is an
unmissable drink and Beer
makes a popular After independence in 1991, the
souvenir, although region’s state breweries were
perhaps as much for privatized and many of them
its ceramic bottle as were subsequently bought by
for the liquid inside. large international corporations.
Developed in 1752 as Baltic Beverages Holdings,
a medicinal tonic, jointly owned by Carlsberg and
it is composed of a Scottish & Newcastle, owns
top-secret list of several of the region’s biggest
ingredients and is an brands, such as Saku in Estonia,
acquired taste. Aldaris in Latvia and Utenos and
Occasionally drunk Švyturys in Lithuania. The
Rīgas sparkling Põltsamaa Kuldne Glögg mulled neat, it is often mixed Finnish company Olvi has
wine, Latvia fruit wine, Estonia wine, Estonia with cola, hot bought Cēsis, which is Latvia’s
W H AT TO E AT A N D D R I N K 313
Golden Dragon €€
Chinese Street Finder C2
Pikk 37
Tel 631 3506
Occupying a vaulted cellar,
Golden Dragon is quite possibly
the best Chinese restaurant in
Tallinn. Portions are generous
and the extensive menu has
plenty of vegetarian options.
Grillhaus Daube €€
International Street Finder C3
Rüütli 11
Tel 645 5531
A great-value eatery with a blazing Restrained luxury at the elegant Bordoo in the Three Sisters Boutique Hotel, Tallinn
open fire and exposed brick walls.
The meat-based menu features serves an excellent selection Dominic €€€
tender steaks along with grilled of reasonably priced inter- Estonian Street Finder C2
duck, chicken, pork and salmon. national dishes. Grilled duck is Vene 10
a local favourite. Tel 641 0400
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts €€ This Old Town restaurant in a
Estonian Street Finder C2 Von Krahli Aed €€ historic building has a classical
Dunkri 8 European Street Finder C2 interior, antique-style crockery and
Tel 628 6567 Rataskaevu 8 professional service. International
This charming cellar restaurant Tel 626 9088 dishes prepared with locally
serves a satisfying selection of At this hip restaurant with sourced ingredients include deer
typically meaty traditional dishes comfy chairs and faded chops and mushroom risotto, all
such as crispy pigs’ ears and decor the emphasis is on served with excellent wines.
blood sausage, plus some healthy eating. There is a
vegetarian options. good selection for vegetarians; Gloria €€€
the menu indicates whether French Street Finder D3
Masha €€ dishes contain lactose, egg Müürivahe 2
Russian Street Finder F1 or gluten. Tel 640 6800 Closed Sun
Lootsi 14-2 This elegant restaurant and wine
Tel 600 3633 Bocca €€€ cellar dates from 1937 and specia-
This brightly lit restaurant, just International Street Finder C2 lizes in old-fashioned haute cuisine.
outside the centre, serves Olevimägi 9 Favourites such as foie gras and
excellent Russian staples such as Tel 611 7290 duck confit can be accompanied
pelmeni (stuffed dumplings) and A sleek, minimalist restaurant by a splendid selection of wines.
blini (pancakes). There is live music with atmospheric lighting
and colourful folk dancing from and a suitably contemporary Korsaar €€€
7pm, Wednesday to Saturday. menu. Among the enticing Caribbean Street Finder C2
options are ravioli stuffed with Dunkri 5
Mix €€ rabbit, roast dove and grilled Tel 666 8064
Fusion Street Finder C2 rack of lamb. First-rate service. A fun, nautically themed restaurant
Vana-Posti 11/13 Book ahead. packed with aquariums swimming
Tel 622 0998 Closed Sun with live sharks, tropical fish and
Traditional European recipes Bordoo €€€ turtles. Superb exotic dishes include
are combined with those of International Street Finder D1 Patagonian toothfish steak with
Central Asia and the Far East at Pikk 71/ Tolli 2 mango, grilled stingray fins
this smart Old Town restaurant. Tel 630 6300 with coconut-ginger tapioca, and
Creative dishes include tuna Luxurious Bordoo is nestled Madagascar chocolate ganache.
steak with rhubarb sauce and in the Three Sisters Boutique
salmon stuffed with mussels. Hotel (see p297). Intricate,
artfully presented dishes DK Choice
Rataskaevu16 €€ are served by attentive staff. Neh €€€
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tables are set well apart to Estonian Street Finder F2
Rataskaevu 16 ensure diners’ privacy and Lootsi 4
Tel 642 4025 there’s also a pleasant courtyard. Tel 602 2222
This great little restaurant with This superb restaurant with
friendly staff and superb food is Chedi €€€ an exposed redbrick interior
one of the city’s best. Roast elk Asian Street Finder C2 sources its recipe ideas from
with blackcurrant sauce and Sulevimägi 1 the Nordic islands, so there’s
warm chocolate cake are among Tel 646 1676 plenty of pickled, dried and
the tempting options. This multiple award-winning salted ingredients on the
restaurant has a stylish, menu. Dishes are imaginatively
Restoran Spot €€ modern interior with black presented on wood, glass
International Street Finder C2 slate cladding. Modern takes and slate, and the service is
Vene 4 on traditional Asian recipes excellent. Advance booking
Tel 600 4977 are stunningly presented. is essential and can be done
Run by an enthusiastic young Advance booking is via the restaurant’s website.
team, this stylish restaurant recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
316 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SILLAMÄE: Krunk €€
Estonian Road Map E1
Kesk 23, 40231
Tel 392 9033
Part of the town’s refurbished
Soviet-era hotel (see p299), Krunk
has an oddly appealing aura of Artfully mismatched tiles at Fellin, Viljandi
faded elegance. The well-
presented, meaty fare is the TARTU: Püssirohu Kelder €€ small café-restaurant serving
best food served in town. There International Road Map E2 typical Estonian food relies
is live music at weekends. Lossi 28, 51003 on the passing tourist trade.
Tel 730 3555 Sandwiches and snacks are
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Café Suur Built into a hillside, this popular also available.
Muna € pub-restaurant in an old gun-
International Road Map E2 powder cellar has, at 11 m (36 ft), VILJANDI: Fellin €€
Haanja village the world’s highest pub ceiling. International Road Map D2
Tel 5866 4668 Great beers are served and the Kauba 11, 71011
A peaceful rural café in an idyllic menu is packed with meaty Tel 435 9795
spot with a modern wood- dishes. It gets pretty lively late at The innovative menu at the
panelled interior, Café Suur has night and at weekends. wonderfully cosy Fellin has
a short menu of various egg- a great selection of health-
themed dishes in honour of Suur TARTU: Chez André €€€ conscious dishes made from
Munamägi (Big Egg Hill). There International Road Map E2 locally sourced ingredients.
is a lovely summer terrace. Küütri 3, 51007 Artfully presented options
Tel 744 2085 include crispy quail and charcoal
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Suur This acclaimed restaurant really grilled mature entrecôte.
Munamägi Tower Café € pushes the boundaries with its
International Road Map E2 innovative and artistic combina- VILJANDI: Suur Vend €€
Haanja village tions of exquisite nouvelle cuisine. International Road Map D2
Tel 5822 9895 The intriguing menu includes Turu 4, 71003
This little glass-fronted café at the strawberry and duck pasta, beef Tel 433 3644
top of the Suur Munamägi tower tenderloin steak with Alaska Plenty of meat and fish dishes,
(see p125) sits at the highest point crab, and smoked ice cream. as well as a few vegetarian
in the Baltic States, at 347 m options, are on the menu at this
(1,139 ft) above sea level. Enjoy friendly pub. There is live music
fantastic views of the region DK Choice Wednesday to Saturday evenings.
along with a light refreshment. TARTU: La Dolce Vita €€€
Italian Road Map E2 VÕRU: Mõisa Ait €
TARTU: Vilde € Kompanii 10, 51007 International Road Map E2
International Road Map E2 Tel 740 7545 Jüri 20c, 65608
Vallikraavi 4 Serving an enormous selection Tel 782 5587
Tel 734 4191 Closed Sun of authentic dishes, Old Town Meat-eaters are well catered
Ultra-healthy dishes made restaurant La Dolce Vita has for at this welcoming pub-
from locally produced organic won numerous awards. Pizzas restaurant in a lovely old
ingredients are served at this great are cooked in a traditional building. There’s a good choice
café-restaurant with quirky decor. wood-fired oven, the pasta is of fish, beef, pork and chicken
Meals that are gluten or lactose- home-made and many of the dishes, but far fewer options
free are marked as such on the ingredients are imported from for vegetarians.
menu and there’s an abundance Italy. The delightful interior
of vegetarian options. is reminiscent of an authentic VÕRU: Café Spring €€
trattoria and the service International Road Map E2
TARTU: Yakuza Sushi Bar € is excellent. Petseri 20
Japanese Road Map E2 Tel 782 2777 Closed Sun
Tasku Shopping Centre 4th floor, In a stylishly renovated wooden
Turu 2, 51014 VÄRSKA: Hirvemäe house right beside Lake Tamula,
Tel 741 2732 Puhkekeskus € Café Spring offers a good
Inside a central shopping mall, Estonian Road Map E2 choice of artistically presented
this restaurant serves a well- Silla 6 vegetarian and meat dishes.
presented choice of sushi Tel 797 6105 The pleasant interior has exposed
options along with soups and Part of a holiday complex close brick, a wood-burning stove and
rice and noodle dishes. to Setu Village Museum, this a comfy upstairs lounge.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
320 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Da Sergio €€
Italian Street Finder F2
Tērbatas 6
Tel 6731 2777
This is one of Rīga’s best Italian
restaurants, with a well-
established reputation for
consistently high standards of
service and cuisine. Pizzas are
cooked in a traditional wood-
fired oven and there’s a great
choice of pasta and seafood.
Demokrātisks Vīna
Bārs Garage €€
Latvian Street Finder E3
Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
Tel 2662 8833
The menu changes daily, Extra-long bar at modern and inventive restaurant Bibliotēka No 1, Rīga
according to which seasonal
ingredients are available, at this Province €€ Bergs €€€
chic restaurant and wine bar in a Latvian Street Finder C4 International Street Finder E3
starkly modern converted Kaļķu 2 Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
garage. Tapas complement the Tel 6722 2566 Tel 6777 0957 Closed Sun
wide selection of wines. An Old Town restaurant with a Part of boutique Hotel Bergs (see
rustic interior and some great p301), this is one of Rīga’s
Domini Canes €€ local cuisine. The tasting menu is classiest restaurants. It offers an
International Street Finder D4 a good starting point; it includes exciting fusion of Latvian and
Skārņu 18/20 beef fillet tart, black peas with European cuisine created by top
Tel 2231 4122 bacon and herring tart. Latvian chef Kaspars Jansons.
This intimate restaurant has just
ten tables and is located right Tēvocis Vaņa €€ Bibliotēka No 1 €€€
at the heart of the Old Town Russian Street Finder C3 Latvian Street Finder D3
opposite St Peter’s Church. Smilšu 16 Tērbatas 2
Delicious international dishes Tel 2788 6963 Tel 2022 5000
with Latvian influences are “Uncle Vanya” is an upmarket Boasting a summer terrace over-
prepared with locally sourced Russian restaurant with an looking a leafy park, Bibliotēka
ingredients. Book ahead. elegant interior featuring vintage No 1 serves a high standard of
wallpaper, ceramic knick-knacks, innovative cuisine. Smoked
Gan Bei €€ antique books and comfortable Latgale eel and chicken-liver ice
Asian Street Finder D2 chairs. It serves a menu of Slavic cream are among the offerings.
Dzirnavu 67 classics including a highly-rated
Tel 6728 8420 beef stroganoff. Le Dome €€€
Located at the top floor of Latvian Street Finder C3
the popular Galleria Rīga mall, Uzbekistāna €€ Miesnieku 4
this restaurant serves a range Uzbek Street Finder C4 Tel 6755 9884
of dishes from Asian cuisine Bruņinieku iela 33 This award-winning fish
such as sushi to dishes from Tel 6729 2270 restaurant on a quiet street is
Chinese, Indian and Thai cuisines. This is reputed to be the city’s part of the Dome Hotel and Spa
Wonderful rooftop terrace. first and finest restaurant to be (see p300). It specializes in freshly
serving Uzbek and Central Asian caught Baltic fish, but also serves
International SV €€ food. Favourites include dump- beef, pork and chicken dishes.
International Street Finder F1 lings, shashlik (kebabs) and freshly
Hospitāļu 1 baked bread. Traditional as well as Melnie Mūki €€€
Tel 6749 1212 authentic food and friendly staff. International Street Finder D4
At this top restaurant with a Jāņa Sēta 1
sleek, modern interior, diners can Tel 6721 5006
choose several mini-portions DK Choice The well-established Melnie
of exquisitely presented main 3 Pavaru €€€ Mūki, or Black Monks, occupies
dishes. Options include beef International Street Finder C3 the cellar of an old monastery
Wellington, ostrich fillet, potato Torņa 4/2b and serves an eclectic menu of
gnocchi and cheese fondue. Tel 2037 0537 Latvian and international cuisine.
Outstanding service. Run by three of Latvia’s most
promising chefs, 3 Pavaru is one Neiburgs €€€
Ķiploku Krogs €€ of Rīga’s most exciting dining Latvian Street Finder C4
International Street Finder C3 experiences. Diners can watch Jauniela 25/27
Jēkaba 3/5 the seasonal Latvian dishes Tel 6711 5544
Tel 6721 1451 being prepared with modern Part of the Neiburgs Hotel (see
In keeping with its name, cooking techniques in the open p301), this charming restaurant
which means “garlic bar,” this kitchen, with chefs wielding is among the best in Rīga. It has
quirky little restaurant puts blowtorches and pouring a bright, classy, modern interior
garlic in just about everything, vapourizing liquid nitrogen. and beautifully presented Latvian
including the ice cream. and international dishes.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
322 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
JĒKABPILS: Luiize €€
International Road Map D4
Brīvības 190
Tel 2770 5777
A stylish restaurant in an old
building with a hotel and
nightclub attached, Luiize has
a menu that typically consists
of plenty of meat dishes. It
has expanded the choice even
further by adding more unusual
options such as crocodile,
kangaroo and quail.
KRĀSLAVA: Mārīte €
Latvian Road Map E4
Tīrgus 2, LV-5601 Bīriņu manor house with crenellated towers, containing a restaurant in its cellar, Limbaži
Tel 6562 4039
This popular central café with RĒZEKNE: Latgale €€ VALMIERA: Cili Pica €
bright scarlet decor and cheerful Latvian Road Map E4 Italian Road Map D3
service is the best eatery in Atbrīvošanas aleja 98, LV-4601 Georga Apiņa 10a, LV-4201
Krāslava. It offers a straight- Tel 2616 4444 Tel 6422 8558
forward menu of Latvian The Latgale Hotel’s ground-floor Part of a national chain, this
standard dishes. There is live restaurant has a rather dated and brightly decorated pizzeria offers
music at weekends. formal interior, but is a pleasant quick service and delicious pizzas.
place to eat nonetheless as Pasta dishes, soups, salads and
LIELVĀRDE: Baltu Ozols €€ the traditional cuisine is well- desserts are also on the menu.
International Road Map D4 prepared and the service is good.
Lāčplēša 35, LV-5070 VALMIERA: Rātes Vārti €
Tel 6505 5017 RĒZEKNE: Rozalija €€ International Road Map D3
Creatively presented dishes, International Road Map E4 Lāčplėša 1, LV-4201
attentive service and a Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6428 1942
reasonable wine list can all be Tel 6460 7840 A quaint little restaurant near
found at this idyllically situated A stylish dining option in the St Simon’s church with stripped
riverside restaurant, located Kolonna Hotel (see p303), Rozalija wood floors, white tablecloths
inside a small hotel. serves a good choice of meaty and comfortable seating. The
regional dishes alongside wide selection of Latvian and
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ international favourites. It has a international dishes includes
Latvian Road Map D3 terrace overlooking the river. several couscous options.
Bīriņi, LV-4013
Tel 6402 4033 SALACGRĪVA: Rakari €
A selection of imaginative dishes, Latvian Road Map D3 DK Choice
based on traditional Latvian Rakari, Svētciems, LV-4033 VALMIERA: Dikļu Pils €€
cuisine, are served at this Tel 2666 4447 Latvian Road Map D3
atmospheric restaurant in the A smart pub-restaurant just off Dikļi parish, LV-4223
brick-lined, vaulted cellar of the Via Baltica (Rīga–Tallinn) Tel 6420 7480
Bīriņu manor house (see p303). motorway that’s part of a well- Housed within the impeccably
Options include beaver broth, equipped recreation complex restored Dikli Palace Hotel (see
organic lamb with baked apple, with a children’s play area. The p303), this restaurant has a
and pickled beaver. menu has the usual choice of formal yet relaxed dining
well-prepared traditional cuisine. atmosphere. The menu features
PREIĻI: Levaž € exquisitely presented Latvian
Latvian Road Map E4 SALACGRĪVA: Zvejnieku Sēta € specialities made with locally
Kooperatīvā 1c, LV-5301 Latvian Road Map D3 sourced ingredients. Tempting
Tel 2643 2050 Closed Sun Rīgas 1, LV-4033 options include smoked pike
The menu has a simple choice Tel 2632 3846 perch soup, roast rabbit with
of local dishes at this small, This well-established, central fish apple sauce, and baked
modest café in the centre of restaurant, decked out with all pumpkin with marzipan for
town. It is known as “the green- sorts of fishing paraphernalia, dessert. Excellent service.
house” for its marvellous tropical- serves a broad choice of cuisine
style interior, glass walls and made with fresh fish and locally
winter garden. sourced ingredients. VECPIEBALGA: Jumurdas
Muiža €€
RĒZEKNE: Guru €€ STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €€ International Road Map D3
Italian Road Map E4 International Road Map E3 Ērgļu district, LV-4844
Atbrīvošanas aleja 100, LV-4601 Skolas 1, LV-4406 Tel 6487 1791
Tel 2835 3538 Tel 2922 5805 Part of a hotel complex of
A sophisticated restaurant which A lovely lakeside restaurant within converted manor buildings 19 km
offers good food and views of the Vonadziņi hotel complex of (12 miles) south of Vecpiebalga,
the city centre by day, and attracts thatched log buildings (see p303). this secluded lakeside restaurant
a combination of hipsters, A good choice of dishes is served has a lovely summer terrace. A
cocktail quaffers and disco on the summer terrace or, in the sophisticated blend of Latvian
lovers by night. winter months, by a blazing fire. and European cuisine is served.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
326 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Miyako €€
Japanese Street Finder C1
Konstitucijos 7a
Tel 6185 2112
This superb restaurant and sushi
bar is located on the top floor of
the Europa shopping centre. The
high-quality sushi is prepared by
expert chefs in full view of diners.
Rib Room €€
International Street Finder D1
Šeimyniškių 1
Tel (5) 210 3012
The Holiday Inn’s restaurant is
the place to indulge in all things
meaty, from thick rib soup to
spicy spare ribs and grilled veal
ribs. There’s also a good choice Mexican restaurant Sofa de Pancho’s homely interior, Vilnius
of fish dishes.
with heat warnings where Medininkai €€€
Saint Germain €€ necessary and the service from International Street Finder D4
French Street Finder D4 the energetic waiting staff is Aušros Vartų gatvė 8
Literatų 9 very professional. Tel 6008 6491
Tel (5) 262 1210 This well-respected Old Town
Hugely popular with both ex-pats Böff Steakhouse €€€ establishment sports crisp white
and locals, this shabby-chic French International Street Finder D2 linens in the 16th-century
restaurant is among the best in Olimpiečių 1 courtyard dining areas. The
the city. The food is impressive Tel (5) 219 9498 Closed Sun service is impeccable, and the
and reasonably priced, and there Upon opening, this steakhouse award-winning chef ensures
is an excellent choice of wines. quickly established itself as one that the standard of cuisine is
of the city’s best restaurants. consistently high.
Senoji Trobelė €€ The steaks, which are from
Lithuanian Street Finder B4 all over the world, are cooked Narutis €€€
Naugarduko 36 to perfection. International Street Finder D3
Tel 6099 9002 Pilies gatvė 24
The menu at this rustic-style Brasserie de Verres en Vers €€€ Tel (5) 212 2894
restaurant offers an extensive French Street Finder D4 Serving an exceptionally high
choice of meaty national staples Didžioji gatvė 35/2 standard of both international
served on pretty traditional Tel (5) 236 0840 cuisine and traditional Lithuanian
crockery. If you are taken by it, This high-end restaurant in the dishes, Narutis offers quality
you can purchase the dining Radisson Blu Astorija luxury dining in the elegant environ-
ware as a souvenir. There is a Old Town hotel (see p305) has a ment of the Narutis Hotel (see
shaded outdoor terrace. small but carefully selected p305), with thick carpets and
menu of dishes. House plush furniture. The service is
Sky Bar €€ specialities include mussels of course excellent.
International Street Finder C1 steamed in white wine, roasted
Konstitucijos 20 duck breast and seafood stew. La Pergola €€€
Tel (5) 231 4823 International Street Finder D4
The views from this 22nd-floor Da Antonio €€€ Ligoninės 7
bar atop the Radisson Blu Hotel Italian Street Finder C3 Tel (5) 266 0322 Closed Sun
are the best in Vilnius. Guests can Vilnius 23 Part of the splendid Grotthuss
enjoy light meals accompanied Tel (5) 262 0109 Boutique hotel, La Pergola offers
by first-class cocktails. A grand entrance of columns a high-end dining experience
and a portico welcomes diners with first-class service and a
Sofa de Pancho €€ to this well-established Italian menu of flawlessly prepared
Mexican Street Finder D4 restaurant. Pizzas are cooked in a dishes. Enticing options include
Visų Šventųjų 5 wood-fired oven and the pasta is halibut fillet in crispy pastry,
Tel 6738 9002 Closed Sun, Mon prepared fresh on site. and roasted scallops with
Enthusiastic staff prepare top- cream sauce.
notch tacos, tortillas and chili con Imperial €€€
carne, as well as great cocktails, at International Street Finder D4 La Provence €€€
this brilliant little restaurant with Subačiaus gatvė 2 Mediterranean Street Finder D4
a smart yet eclectic interior. Tel (5) 238 8388 Vokiečių 22
Influenced by American gourmet Tel (5) 262 0257 Closed Sun
Sue’s Indian Raja €€ cuisine, the menu at this This exclusive restaurant attracts
Indian Street Finder D3 restaurant in the Ramada Hotel a constant flow of VIPs, diplomats
Odminių 3 (see p305) features fresh North and celebrities. The interior is
Tel (5) 266 1888 Atlantic lobster, grilled veal and theatrical and even a little bit
Sue’s is a reliable Old Town suckling pig. The opulent interior quirky, while the menu is wide-
restaurant serving the city’s has gleaming chandeliers, a ranging and expensive, featuring
most authentic Indian cuisine. marble fireplace, and wood- a skilful fusion of Mediterranean
Delectable dishes are labelled panelled walls and ceilings. and Lithuanian cuisine.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
328 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
KAUNAS: Buon Giorno €€ view. The food cannot quite serves an appetizing choice of
Italian Road Map D5 match the panorama, but the Karaim cuisine, including fish
Daukanto 14 simple fare and a children’s baked in pastry and other similar
Tel 6106 3777 playground make it an attractive pasty-style dishes.
Revelling in Italian gastronomy, destination for families. On
Buon Giorno serves great pizza, the Vilnius–Sudervė–Kernavė TRAKAI: Senoji Kibininė €
pasta and bruschetta. This branch road, turn left towards Vievis, Karaim Road Map D6
is a trattoria with full meals. For continue for a couple of Karaimų 65
drinks and lighter bites head to kilometres and it’s on the left. Tel (528) 55 865
the taverna of the same name Located in an atmospheric barn,
(and quality) found at Vilniaus 34. MARIJAMPOLĖ: Sudavija € Senoji Kibininė specializes in
Lithuanian Road Map C6 traditional čenakai (stewed
KAUNAS: Moksha €€ Sodo 1a cabbage) and kibinai, Karaim
Indian Road Map D5 Tel (343) 52 995 pasties stuffed with a choice of
Vasario 16-osios 6 Expect home-cooked food filling including mutton, beef
Tel 6767 1649 served by attentive waiting staff and vegetables or, for dessert,
Highly regarded for its Indian and at this cosy dining room in the chocolate and nuts.
Thai food, Moksha is an intimate Sudavija Hotel. The relaxed interior
place in the Old Town with features crisp white tablecloths, a TRAKAI: Bona €€
whitewashed walls and simple fireplace and a piano. International Road Map D6
furniture. Dishes are spiced to Karaimų 53a
European tastes, and the staff PANEVĖŽYS: Hesburger Tel (528) 55 595
provide efficient service. Panevėžys Babilonas II € Bona is an upmarket pizzeria
International Road Map D5 with an enviable lakeside spot
KAUNAS: Pompėja €€ Klaipėdos 143 providing wonderful views of
Mediterranean Road Map D5 Tel 6730 2758 the castle. Well-prepared inter-
V Putvinskio 38 Part of an ubiquitous Baltic chain national dishes are available in
Tel (37) 422 055 of McDonald’s-style fast-food addition to pizza.
Pompėja has a well-deserved restaurants, Hesburger has
reputation for fine Mediterranean hamburgers, fries, wraps, cakes TRAKAI: Remus €€
food. Mock Classical frescoes and and salads. With efficient service, International Road Map D6
clay floor tiles conjure up the it is convenient for a quick meal. Karaimų 93a
spirit of ancient Rome. Tel 6981 3777
PANEVĖŽYS: Déjà vu €€ Serving first-class European and
International Road Map D5 Lithuanian cuisine, this luxurious
DK Choice Kranto gatvė 24 venue modelled on an English
KAUNAS: Uoksas €€ Tel (45) 584 859 rowing club features plenty of
International Road Map D5 Panevėžys’ classiest restaurant is polished wood, antique boating
Maironio 28 located within the Romantic paraphernalia and even a small
Tel 6863 8881 Closed Sun Hotel (see p306) and features an museum dedicated to rowing.
One of Kaunas’s best restaurants, elegant interior with paintings
Uoksas has an open kitchen and soft furnishings. Imaginative TRAKAI: Akmeninė
where diners can watch the dishes include caramelized duck Rezidencija €€€
chefs prepare inventive dishes breast, baby octopus risotto, Caucasian Road Map D6
using liquid nitrogen and other and pear salad. Bražuolės village
cutting-edge cooking methods. Tel 6983 0544
Innovative food presentation TRAKAI: Kybynlar € Nestled in a picturesque spot on
features
features the use of slate, stone Karaim Road Map D6 the shore of Lake Akmena, the
and wooden slabs in place of Karaimų 29 rustic yet elegant restaurant at
plates and rough woollen bread Tel 6980 6320 this secluded hotel (see p306)
baskets instead of traditional This riverside restaurant with a serves dishes such as baked
wicker ones. pleasant summer terrace and rabbit’s liver, smoked eel, and
traditionally decorated interior meat and fish shashlik (kebab).
KERNAVĖ: Pušynėlis €
Lithuanian Road Map D5
Verkšionys, near Dūkštai
Tel 6991 4103
Situated above a thickly forested
bend in the Neris river, Pušynėlis
commands an almost primordial Alfresco eating at traditional Karaim restaurant, Kybynlar in Trakai
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9
330 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
KLAIPĖDA: Ararat €€
Armenian Road Map B5
Liepų 48a
Tel (46) 410 001
For an exotic dining experience,
head for this restaurant in the
Ararat Hotel, where modern
decor is com bined with the
combined
bright colours of Armenian
textiles. The meaty menu
features beautifully presented
dishes including sublime
lamb options.
SHOPPING IN ESTONIA
Traditional handicrafts and souvenirs can be specialities, including handicrafts, locally
found all over Estonia. The country’s retail woven textiles such as blankets and rugs, and
sector is, in general, quite uniform outside high-quality organic honey from local farms.
the major towns of Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu. Most towns hold small markets where visitors
Shopping malls have had a considerable can find food and household items. Antique
impact on smaller towns and the same stores stores also sell some interesting objects.
and brand names fill out the bulk of these Prices are usually lower outside Tallinn.
identikit malls. Despite this, towns and Estonian chocolate, alcohol and cigars are
villages are good places to find local readily available in most supermarkets.
Sales
Throughout Estonia,
sales are usually held
in the middle and at
Stockmann, one of the best department stores in Estonia the end of a season,
although the most
Opening Hours Rights and Refunds significant reductions are
Most shops are generally open In Estonia, all goods come reserved for the New Year
from 10am to 6 or 7pm on with a two-year warranty sales. Watch out for a sign in
weekdays, and from 10am under EU law. However, after shop windows, which may
to 5pm on Saturdays and a period of six months from read as allahindlus (discount),
Sundays. Shopping centres the date of purchase, the soodusmüük (sale), lõpumüük
usually open from 10am to 8 or customer might be asked to (final sale), or tühjendusmüük
9pm daily. In small towns and prove that the defect existed (everything must go).
villages, opening hours are at the time of buying and was
more erratic at weekends, with not introduced later. Warranties
many shops only opening for are only effective on produc- Markets
half a day or staying closed. tion of a valid receipt. Just about every Estonian
Grocery stores normally keep Refunds remain discretionary town has a market, known as
longer hours, and in Tallinn on the part of the seller, a turg, although they often
there are several 24-hour although most major stores only sell fruit, vegetables,
convenience stores. will provide a refund as long household goods and other
as there is no damage to the everyday items. There is little
goods and the receipt is in the way of souvenirs or
How to Pay produced. Legal guidance can curios to be found in these
All large stores and the majority be sought from the Consumer markets. Kuressaare market in
of small shops throughout Centre of Estonia (see p335), Saaremaa is a rare exception.
Estonia accept most major which protects consumer It also sells trinkets, such as
credit and debit cards. Retail rights in the case of cross- dolomite-carved objects, in
outlets prominently display border purchases. addition to local produce. For
logos for accepted credit and Estonian mementos the best
debit cards. Visitors may be bet is to attend one of the
asked for proof of identity when VAT Exemption annual folk or town festivals
paying with a credit card. Nearly all goods and services held across the country. During
However, most market stalls are subject to 20 per cent VAT, these, temporary markets are
and out-of-the-way places which is always included in the set up, with stalls selling an
accept only cash. display prices. Non-EU citizens array of local delicacies, quirky
SHOPPING IN ESTONIA 333
Shopping in Tallinn
Tallinn has witnessed a proliferation of sleek new shopping
malls in recent years. Most international brand names can be
found alongside a considerable range of popular Scandinavian
brands. Tallinn’s Old Town, which has some exclusive fashion
boutiques and speciality art shops, is also one of the best places
in the capital for gift shopping and souvenir hunting. Almost
every street has something in the way of traditional handicrafts,
such as ceramics, glassware, linen, wooden utensils and toys.
There are plenty of stores and market stalls which specialize in
art, antiques, jewellery, amber, knitted woollens, patchwork Colourful ceramic collection at the stylish
quilts and interesting knick-knacks. The Christmas Market in Bogapott studio
Town Hall Square is especially popular and brings together
virtually every imaginable Estonian product.
Handicrafts
Much more than just souvenirs
aimed at tourists, Estonian
handicrafts are synonymous
with a traditional way of life that
persists even today. Tallinn
abounds with a bewildering
variety of handicrafts. Wooden
toys and utensils are particularly
common as are a wide range of
ceramics, including candle-
holders modelled after the Old
Town buildings. Traditionally
woven rugs are still made today,
some of which are more like
Russian dolls and amber jewellery for sale on one of Tallinn’s souvenir stalls works of art with their beautiful
and elaborate patterns.
Markets the corner of Viru and Bogapott, an exclusive
Tallinn’s main market, the Müürivahe covers a sizeable ceramics studio, and Galerii
open-air Central Market, offers stretch of the Old Town wall Kaks, with its wide range of
a glimpse into the everyday life and is a great place to find a textiles, are worthy of a visit.
of the city’s inhabitants. Stalls gift. Uus Käsitööturg, a popular Nukupood stocks handmade
full of fresh produce may not stall in the market, has a good toys as well as dolls dressed in
offer much variety for the selection of traditional traditional folk costumes of
average souvenir-hunter, but handicrafts and souvenirs. The Estonia. In Katariina Gild,
the Central Market’s bustling Christmas Market in Town Hall craftsmen can be seen creating
atmosphere is worth the Square (see pp62–3), which runs handicrafts, jewellery and
experience. Those interested in through December, features ceramics. A-Galerii has a
shopping can try and haggle. everything from knitwear and dazzling selection of local
The market selling knitwear at decorative items to marzipan. handmade jewellery.
Galerii Kaks
Books and Music Lühike jalg 1. Tel 641 8308.
The best bookstore in Tallinn for Katariina Gild
English-language books is
Vene 12. Tel 644 5365.
Apollo. This outlet has a range
∑ katariinagild.eu
of gift books relating to Estonian Kaubamaja store, one of Tallinn’s leading
culture and history, as well as a shopping venues Nukupood
small selection of Estonian Raekoja plats 18. Tel 644 3058.
novels translated into English. halvah and blood sausage,
Look out for the English during the Christmas season. Art and Antiques
translation of The Czar’s Try the gourmet section at
Madman and Treading Air by Kaubamaja for a variety. For Reval Antiik
Jaan Kross (1920–2007), the chocolate lovers, Kalev, Estonia’s Harju 13. Tel 644 0747.
esteemed Estonian writer. largest and oldest chocolate ∑ reval-antique.ee
Estonia’s wealth of choral and and confectionary producer,
Shifara Art & Antiques
classical music also makes offers a wide range of
Vana-posti 7. Tel 644 3536.
for a great gift. CDs of luxury chocolates
∑ shifara-antique.ee
the works of with picturesque
renowned composers, prints of Tallinn on
such as Heino Eller the box. These choco-
Books and Music
(1887–1970), Eduard Logo of lates can be bought Apollo
Tubin (1905–82) and Kalev chocolate from local food stores. Estonia pst 9. Tel 633 6000.
Arvo Pärt (see p27), are Real chocolate
∑ apollo.ee
widely available, as are folk music connoisseurs should try the
One of several branches.
and choral music compilations. handmade delicacies at Anneli
Lasering, one of the leading Viik. There are also numerous Lasering
music stores in Tallinn, has an bakeries selling delicious Pärnu mnt 38. Tel 627 9279.
impressive selection of various pastries and cakes. Stockmann, ∑ lasering.ee
kinds of music and a separate one of the largest department One of several branches.
section on classical music. stores, also stocks cakes, bagels
and savouries. Food and Drink
Vana Tallinn (see p312), a very
sweet brown liqueur, is Anneli Viik
considered to be the national Pikk 30. Tel 644 4530.
drink of Estonia. Those without a ∑ anneliviik.ee
sweet tooth may prefer it mixed
with coffee, while some people Kaubamaja
even drink it with milk. In terms Gonsiori 2. Tel 667 3100.
of sheer consumption, beer is ∑ kaubamaja.ee
by far the most popular drink in Liviko
Estonia. Saku Originaal is the Mere pst 6. Tel 683 7745.
dominant brand, but Tartu
∑ liviko.ee
Alexander and A Le Coq beers
One of several branches.
are popular brews as well. There
Apollo, Tallinn’s primary bookstore, stocks a is an abundance of locally made, Stockmann
range of gift books as well as quality imported, Liivalaia 53. Tel 633 9539.
vodka, which is considerably ∑ stockmann.ee
cheaper than in other European
Food and Drink countries. Saare Džinn, a gin Rights and Refunds
Estonian food products are flavoured with berries from the
ubiquitous and can usually be Estonian islands, is good too. Consumer Centre of Estonia
found in any supermarket. Rye Liviko, one of Estonia’s leading Pronksi 12. Tel 620 1708.
bread is a local staple, as are alcohol producers, has stores all ∑ consumer.ee
sprats, smoked fish and cheese, over Tallinn.
336 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN LATVIA
Numerous supermarkets and shopping normally good places to pick up interesting
centres have opened in major towns and cities mementos when a town or village lacks a
throughout the country since 1991. However, dedicated souvenir retailer. Several workshops
Rīga undoubtedly has the country’s largest across the country allow visitors to watch
range of shopping options. This is particularly artisans at work and even make their own
true when it comes to items likely to be of pottery, woodwork and other items to take
interest to visitors, although outside the home. Latvian markets cater mostly to local
capital it is usually possible to find typical people, but can still be fascinating places to
handicraft items such as amber jewellery and visit. Local honey, chocolate, beer or a bottle of
embroidered knitwear. Museum gift shops are Black Balsam can make excellent gifts.
Opening Hours in the airport or the land at tourists and are most useful
Most shops in Latvia open borders with Russia, at for everyday food purchases.
around 10am. Small shops close Terehova and Grebņeva. However, some markets are
around 6 or 7pm, while bigger For departures from other extremely atmospheric, such
malls and shopping centres locations, the receipt should as Petertirgus in the covered
usually stay open until 10pm. be stamped and sent to Global market hall in Liepāja (see
Many small shops remain closed Blue Latvia (see p339), along pp184–5), which is a real throw-
on Sundays. with the visitor’s bank details, back to the Soviet era. In the
within six months. summer months, some
markets, like the ones in
How to Pay Jūrmala, sell souvenirs as
In cities and large towns, it is Sales well as fresh produce.
possible to pay with debit Although locally made items
cards and major credit cards are fairly cheap compared to
such as MasterCard or VISA. those in other EU countries, Department Stores and
Some places will also accept prices for imported goods tend Shopping Malls
American Express and Diners to be high in Latvia, a situation Most sizeable towns have at
Club. In smaller towns and which has not been helped by least one department store or
villages cash payment in the regular bouts of high inflation. supermarket. Several malls and
local currency, the euro, may One way of picking up a shopping centres have been
be the only option. bargain is to visit the end-of- built in important cities such
It is rare for traveller’s season sales, when shops as Rīga, Ventspils, Liepāja and
cheques to be accepted as reduce their prices. Daugavpils. Some of these
payment outside Rīga, the malls are located in the
capital city, although those outskirts of the cities, while
issued by major companies Markets others are more central and
can usually be exchanged at Most Latvian towns have easy to access. The larger
most banks. regular or even daily markets, retailers include Rimi, Maxima
although they are rarely aimed and Mego.
VAT Exemption
Visitors from non-EU countries
are entitled to a VAT refund of
up to 12 per cent, provided
that the items were purchased
in a shop displaying the “Tax
Free” logo and the total price
of purchases made from the
shop was at least 50 euros.
Identification must be shown
at the point of purchase, and a
Global Refund receipt com-
pleted. Purchased items
cannot be used until the
receipt is stamped by a
customs official when leaving
the country. The VAT can be
reclaimed at the customs zone Collection of fresh produce for sale at the Central Market, Rīga
S H O P P I N G I N L AT V I A 337
Music
Folk music was a key part of the
National Awakening Movement
(1856), although in the years
since independence it has
become harder to find a sizeable A shopper browsing for souvenirs at Art Nouveau Rīga
S H O P P I N G I N L AT V I A 339
DIRECTORY
Department Upe Riija IG Romuls
Stores and Vaļņu iela 26. Tel 6720 Tērbatas iela 6/8. Ratslaukums 1. Tel 2655
Shopping Malls 5509. ∑ upeveikals.lv Tel 6728 4828. ∑ riija.lv 5363. ∑ romuls.lv
Berga Bazārs Clothing and Art and Antiques Food and Drink
Dzirnavu iela 84. Jewellery
∑ bergabazars.lv Art Embassy Desa & Co
Klase Ausekla iela 6A. Maskavas iela 4.
Galerija Centrs Dzirnavu iela 83/85. Tel 2918 5957. Tel 6721 6186.
Audēju iela16. Tel 2779 1635. Art Nouveau Rīga Emils Gustavs
Tel 6701 8018. ∑ modesklase.lv Strēlnieku 9. Chocolate
∑ galerijacentrs.lv
Putti Tel 6733 3030. Blaumaņa iela 38/40.
Galleria Rīga Peitavas iela 5. Tel 6721 Doma Antikvariāts Tel 2765 9383.
Dzirnavu iela 67. Tel 6750 4229. ∑ putti.lv Smilšu iela 8. ∑ emilsgustavs.com
8000. ∑ galleriariga.lv Tel 2916 6504.
Tines Jāņa Bišu
mc² Vāgnera iela 5. Māksla XO Pēterbaznīcas iela 17.
Krasta iela 68a. Tel 6721 1009. ∑ tines.lv Elizabetes iela 14. Tel 6722 4355.
Tel 6700 6868. ∑ mc2.lv Tel 2948 2098. ∑ daugmalesmedus.lv
Stockmann
Handicrafts Laima Museum & Shop
Volmar
13 Janvāra iela 8. Tel 6707 Egle Krāmu iela 4. Miera iela 22. Tel 6615
1222. ∑ stockmann.lv Kalķu iela 1a. Tel 2550 Tel 6721 4278. 4777 . ∑ laimaso-
5268. ∑ spogulegle.lv koladesmuzejs.lv
Music Amber
Pienene VAT Exemption
Randoms Kungu iela 7/9. Amber Line
Kaļķu iela 4. Tel 6722 Tel 6721 0400. Torņa iela 4. Tel 6732 Global Blue Latvia
5212. ∑ randoms.lv ∑ studijapienene.lv 5058. ∑ amberline.lv ∑ global-blue.com
340 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN LITHUANIA
The souvenirs and gifts available in Lithuania superior quality and in greater variety can be
usually consist of traditional arts and found at specialist shops, which are
handicrafts made from local materials such commonly located close to the major tourist
as amber, ceramics and wood. Beautiful sights. Food and drink in Lithuania are
handmade flax or linen tablecloths and throw distinctive in taste. The local cheeses and
blankets, garments and soft toys are often smoked meats on offer are varied and
available at reasonable prices. The shops and delicious. The wide choice of Lithuanian
stalls of the Old Towns in the larger cities, as alcohol – such as trauktinės, often described
well as the various resorts, are flooded with as a bitter brandy – as well as vodka and beer,
most of these objects. Handicrafts of a are great souvenirs to carry back home.
Art Galleries Inside the elaborately frescoed Littera bookshop, Vilnius University
Vilnius has an astonishing
range of imaginative gift ideas, lined with a surfeit of galleries Vilnius University complex,
displayed in a number of small and gift shops. Among them, is attractive and has a lively
art galleries such as Galerija Užupio Galerija, a working atmosphere. It is worth visiting
R&A. Quirky paintings, colour- gallery selling metal and enamel as much for the stunning
ful plates designed with old pieces, is the most interesting. frescoed walls and ceiling as it
photographs, vases and curios is for its books.
for shelves and mantelpieces There is a lack of a single,
cover the gallery space. At Books and Music all-encompassing record store
e.k.art in the Old Town, original Vilnius has a large number of in Vilnius. However, Muzikos
artwork and antiques from small, yet very intriguing, book- Bomba in the Europa mall has
the last few centuries, from stores. Most of them sell locally a fair collection of Lithuanian
Lithuania and abroad, are published English-language and international music. It
eclectically displayed reference and coffee- also sells music under its own
in one place. Many table books, original as record label. Fans of jazz, blues
upscale galleries in well as translated local and rock should not forget
Vilnius mount shows and international to visit Thelonious, a quirky
of the work of fiction, along with basement store in the Old
Lithuania’s foremost maps and postcards. Town stacked with records,
painters and Vaga has a whole CDs and old-fashioned hi-fi
sculptors. These upper floor which equipment. The Humanitas
works are regularly has a good collection bookstore has a fine selection
offered for sale. of books in English. of art books in English, as well
The bohemian Colourful painting at an Littera (see p226), the as a small collection of local
district of Užupis is art gallery bookshop within the music CDs.
DIRECTORY
Markets Ramunė Piekautaitė Sauluva Books and Music
Didžioji 20. Tel 231 Literatų 3 & Pilies 21. Tel
Gariūnai Market 2270. ∑ ramunepiek 212 1227. ∑ sauluva.lt Humanitas
Vilnius–Kaunas highway. autaite.com Dominikonų 5. Tel 262
Halės Market Art Galleries 1153. ∑ humanitas.lt
Pylimo & Bazilijonų street Traditional Arts
and Crafts e.k.art Littera
corner.
Didžioji 27. Tel 6052 2222. Vilnius University,
Aukso Avis ∑ ek-art.lt Universiteto 5.
Fashion and
Pilies 38. Tel 250 2602.
Clothing Galerija R&A
Tel 261 0421.
Pranciškonų 8. Tel 6858 Thelonious
Europa Linen & Amber
Konstitucijos 7a. Tel 6169 0080.∑ galerijara.lt Stiklių 12. Tel 212 1076.
Studio
5680. ∑ pceuropa.lt ∑ thelonious.lt
Didžioji 10. Užupio Galerija
Gedimino 9 Tel 210 7279. Užupio 3–l. Tel 231 Vaga
Gedimino 9. Tel 262 9812. ∑ lgstudija.lt 2318. ∑ uzupioart Gedimino 50. Tel 249
∑ go9.lt One of several branches. gallery.com 8393. ∑ vaga.lt
344 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN ESTONIA
Estonia has a strikingly dynamic and eclectic part in their social lives. A vast array of rustic-
entertainment scene. The larger towns and style pubs can be found in major towns and
cities, especially Tartu and Pärnu, have a cities, offering a hearty meal, a friendly
crowded cultural calendar as well as a good environment and sometimes vibrant, toe-
nightlife scene. Classical music lovers are tapping folk music. Smaller towns, such as
spoiled for choice all through the year as a Haapsalu, Narva and Kuressaare, have
range of nationwide and local concerts takes numerous bustling nightclubs and bars.
place, given by a fine selection of national A major part of Estonia’s cultural life revolves
and international performers. Saaremaa around folk festivals, with almost every town
Island hosts many classical music festivals hosting some kind of celebration throughout
throughout the summer. Estonians are fond the year. For entertainment in Tallinn, refer
of wining and dining, which plays an integral to pages 346–7.
DIRECTORY
Booking and Prices
Piletilevi
∑ piletilevi.ee
Classical Music
and Ballet
Vanemuine
Vanemuise 6, Tartu. Tel 744 0100.
∑ vanemuine.ee
Music Festivals
Eesti Muusikafestivalid
∑ festivals.ee
Performers at one of the many folk festivals held in Estonia
Nightlife
something more laid-back, Cinema
Atlantis
head to Möku, which has a Films are shown in their Narva mnt 2, Tartu. Tel 738 5485.
casual, bohemian feel. original language with Russian ∑ atlantis.ee
Pärnu also has a lively subtitles, though the choice
Eduard Vilde Lokaal
nightlife. Lime Lounge is a of films outside Tallinn is Vallikraavi 4, Tartu.
stylish place for a drink, while decidedly poor. Most Tel 734 3400. ∑ vilde.ee
Postipoiss is a restaurant-cum- reasonably large towns have
pub with frequent live music. a small cinema which shows German Pub
The slickest nightclub in town the latest blockbusters a few Puškina 10, Narva. Tel 359 1548.
∑ germanpub.ee
is Sugar, while Mirage, another weeks after they are shown in
club, is often packed. the capital. Hollywood films Illusioon
In Narva, head for the are regularly shown at Pärnu’s Raatuse 97, Tartu. Tel 742 4341.
German Pub for a drink small Apollo Kino. Tartu’s ∑ illusion.ee
in enjoyable surroundings. trendy Kino Ekraan, located John Bull Pub
Lemon Lounge, the club in in a shopping mall, is part of Lossipark 4, Kuressaare.
Haapsalu, is the place to head the same chain as Forum Tel 453 9988.
for fun weekend night outs. Cinemas Astri.
Lemon Lounge
Kuressaare has a good choice The Black Nights Film Festival Posti 41, Haapsalu. Tel 473 7770.
of quality restaurants, pubs (see p53), celebrated in
and bars. With an attractive November and December, Lime Lounge
outdoor deck, the John Bull travels to Tartu, Viljandi, Narva, Hommiku 17, Pärnu. Tel 449 2190.
∑ limelounge.ee
Pub is cheerful. Jöhvi and Kärdla, while Pärnu
has a small film festival of its Mirage
own in July. Rüütli 40, Pärnu. Tel 447 2404.
Folk Festivals ∑ mirage.ee
Some of the most important Möku
festivals take place in July. Of Magasini 5, Tartu. Tel 2527 1030.
these, the Viljandi Folk Festival
is the biggest, attracting vast Postipoiss
Vee 12, Pärnu. Tel 446 4864.
numbers of dancers, musicians
∑ trahterpostipoiss.ee
and singers each year. Another is
the Hiiu Folk Festival in Hiiumaa Sugar
(see pp94–5), which has a parti- Vee 10, Pärnu. Tel 442 1100.
cularly authentic ambience ∑ sugarclub.ee
created by its rustic setting.
August is also a busy month.
Cinema
The splendid Narva Historic Apollo Kino
Festival stages an enactment of Lai 5, Pärnu. Tel 633 6000.
the Great Northern War (see p37) ∑ apollokino.ee
in Narva. Obinitsa hosts several Forum Cinemas Astri
festivals celebrating Setu culture Tallinna 41, Narva.
(see p124). The White Lady Days, ∑ forumcinemas.ee
held on the August full moon,
is a festival filled with merry- Kino Ekraan
Riia 14, Tartu. Tel 734 3380.
making in the grounds of the Poster for an Estonian-language film,
∑ forumcinemas.ee
castle in Haapsalu (see p92). Sigade Revolutsioon
346 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Cinema
In Tallinn, films are screened
in their original language with
subtitles. The diversity of
choice has dwin.dled due to
the arrival of the multi-screen
Coca-Cola Plaza and Solaris,
which show the latest
Hollywood blockbusters and
Estonian films. Arthouse and
independent films are
screened at the impressive
Sõprus and Kino Artis. The
Panoramic view of the city from the terrace of Lounge 24, one of Tallinn’s classic lounge bars Black Nights Film Festival
(see p53) is a cinema lover’s
scattered around the Old Town, Vu and Studio, are just good, treat, when the best in world
which are far less frequented simple, fun places and are cinema gets a rare screening
by boisterous visitors. Intimate equally popular with locals and in smaller cinemas.
places, such as Hell Hunt, foreign visitors. For the most
Tallinn’s first real tavern, and the exclusive hangouts head to
Drink Bar, which occasionally Club Privé or Vabank and
features live bands, offer an marvel at the preening clientele.
amiable atmosphere for a chat For showy bartending, clubbers
over a relaxing drink. could try out Venus Club.
Not all nightclubs in Tallinn
will suit all tastes, and some are
Nightclubs downright dubious and as a
The amazing choice and variety result are best avoided. Rather
of nightclubs draws people than wandering into the first
from far and wide to Tallinn. nightclub they come across,
Most of the city’s best clubs are visitors are advised to do
situated in the Old Town, or some research and choose
within walking distance of it. their places of evening Movie posters displayed at the
Many, such as Café Amigo, Déjà entertainment carefully. Coca-Cola Plaza
DIRECTORY
Theatre Rock, Pop, Jazz Hell Hunt Vabank
and Blues Pikk 39. Tel 681 8333. Harju 13.
Russian Drama ∑ hellhunt.ee Tel 660 5299.
Theatre Café Amigo ∑ vabank.ee
Vabaduse väljak 5. Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4. Lounge 24
Tel 641 8246. Tel 680 9380. Radisson Blu Sky Hotel, Venus Club
∑ veneteater.ee ∑ amigo.ee Rävala pst 3. Vana-Viru 14.
Tel 682 3424. Tel 551 9999.
Tallinn Linnateater No99
Lai 23. Sakala 3. Tel 668 8798. Mad Murphy’s Cinema
Tel 665 0800. Mündi 2.
∑ linnateater.ee Rock Café Tel 601 1070. Coca-Cola Plaza
Tartu mnt 80d. Tel 681 ∑ madmurphys.ee Hobujaama 5.
Von Krahl Theatre 0878. ∑ rockcafe.ee Tel 680 0684.
Rataskaevu 10. Scotland Yard ∑ forumcinemas.ee
Tel 626 9090. Von Krahl Baar Mere pst 6e.
∑ vonkrahl.ee Rataskaevu 10/12. Tel 653 5190. Solaris, Kino Artis
Tel 626 9090. ∑ scotlandyard.ee Estonia Pst 9.
Classical Music, ∑ vonkrahl.ee Tel 630 4111.
Dance and Opera Nightclubs ∑ kino.ee
Pubs and Bars Sõprus
Estonian Music Club Privé
Vana-Posti 8.
Academy Déjà Vu Harju 6.
Tel 644 1919.
Rävala 16. Vana Viru 8. Tel 631 0580.
∑ kinosoprus.ee
Tel 667 5700. Tel 5688 4455. ∑ clubprive.ee
∑ ema.edu.ee ∑ dejavu.ee
Studio
Kanuti Gildi Saal Drink Bar Sauna 1.
Pikk 20. Väike-Karja 8. Tel 5894 3261.
Tel 646 4704. ∑ saal.ee Tel 644 9433. ∑ clubstudio.ee
348 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN LATVIA
Latvia’s major cultural events are concentrated in clubs every evening. There are also some
in Rīga, although the dynamic festival good rock clubs, in addition to numerous
calendar includes plenty of reasons to explore bars that host live music. The seaside resort
the country beyond the capital. A few of Jūrmala is another hotspot during summer.
concerts and events are scheduled through Here, many bars and clubs open only for the
the year, but visitors need to consult a website tourist season and the Dzintari Concert Hall
or the tourist board as they are not regular. hosts concerts ranging from classical to pop.
The major exception is Liepāja, which has a Valmiera, considered to be the cultural capital
vibrant cultural life and its own symphony of the Vidzeme region, is another lively city.
orchestra. The city is also considered the For entertainment options in Rīga, see
home of Latvian rock bands, and DJs perform pages 350–51.
DIRECTORY
Information
Latvian Culture Portal
∑ culture.lv
Latvijas Koncerti
∑ latvijaskoncerti.lv
Ticket Service
∑ ticketservice.lv
Cinema
There are several multi-screen
cinemas in Rīga, mostly offer-
ing Hollywood films. The
largest is the Coca-Cola
Forum, which has 14 halls and
several cafés. Splendid Palace,
the city’s first cinema house,
has been renovated and also
shows non-Hollywood films.
K Suns is the best place for art-
Sweeping view of Rīga from the Skyline Bar, Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija house cinema.
DIRECTORY
Theatre Spīķeri Concert Hall Moonshine Studio 69
Maskavas iela 4/1. Kaļķu iela 12. Terbatas 73.
Dailes Theatre Tel 6721 5018. Tel 6722 2203. Tel 6750 6030.
Brīvības iela 75. ∑ moonshineriga.lv ∑ info.studio69.lv
∑ sinfoniettariga.lv
Tel 6727 0463.
∑ dailesteatris.lv Rīgas Ritmi XXL
Rock, Pop and ∑ rigasritmi.lv Kalniņa iela 4.
Latvian National Alternative Tel 6728 2276.
Theatre
Arēna Rīga
Bars and Clubs ∑ xxl.lv
Kronvalda bulvāris 2.
Skanstes iela 21. Tel 6738 Balzambārs
Tel 6700 6337.
8200. ∑ arenariga.com
Casinos
∑ teatris.lv Torņa iela 4. Tel 6721 4494.
Četri Balti Krekli Folkklubs Ala Olympic Voodoo
New Rīga Theatre Casino
Vecpilsētas iela 12. Tel Peldu iela 19. Tel 2779
Lāčplēša iela 25. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
6721 3885. ∑ krekli.lv 6914. ∑ folkklubs.lv
Tel 6728 0765. ∑ jrt.lv Elizabetes iela 55.
Depo Golden Tel 6782 8777.
Russian Drama
Vaļņu iela 32. Ģertrūdes iela 33–35.
Theatre Royal Casino
Tel 6721 1374. Tel 2550 5050.
Kaļķu iela 16. Tērbatas iela 73.
∑ klubsdepo.lv ∑ mygoldenclub.com
Tel 6722 4660. Tel 6709 2299.
∑ trd.lv Kaļķu Vārti I Love You
Kaļķu iela 11a. Aldaru iela 9. Tel 6722 Cinema
Opera and Ballet Tel 6722 4576. 5304. ∑ iloveyou.lv
Coca-Cola Forum
∑ kalkuvarti.lv Paddy Whelan’s
Latvian National Janvara iela 8.
Opera Sapņu Fabrika Grēcinieku iela 4. Tel 6721 ∑ forumcinemas.lv
Aspāzijas bulvāris 3. Lāčplēša 101. 0150. ∑ pub.lv
K Suns
Tel 6707 3777. Tel 2201 1811. Pulkvedim Neviens Elizabetes iela 83–85.
∑ opera.lv ∑ sapnufabrika.lv Neraksta ∑ kinogalerija.lv
Peldu iela 26–28. Tel 6721
Classical Music Jazz & Blues 3886. ∑ pulkvedis.lv Splendid Palace
Elizabetes iela 61.
Ave Sol Hamlets Skyline Bar ∑ splendidpalace.lv
Citadeles iela 7. Jāņa sēta 5. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
Tel 6718 1637. Tel 6722 9938. Elizabetes iela 55.
∑ avesol.riga.lv ∑ hamlets.lv Tel 6777 2222.
352 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN
LITHUANIA
Lithuania offers its visitors a wide variety of the summer solstice. Lively pop festivals
entertainment, with something for everybody. sometimes brighten up summer resorts such
Most cities have a strong cultural tradition. as Palanga and Juodkrantė. Outside Vilnius the
Panevėžys has a popular drama theatre, while entertainment options tend to be limited,
the residents of Klaipėda are more inspired by although Klaipėda provides some atmospheric
music, embracing both improvised and venues for live music. Baroque and chamber
traditional jazz, blues and operetta. Trakai and music concerts are regularly performed
Kernavė provide scenic backdrops to summer throughout the year in many of Lithuania’s
events, including medieval festivals of archery churches. For entertainment options in Vilnius
and swordfighting and mystical celebrations of see pages 354–5.
Information
The English-language In Your
Pocket guides, found in hotels,
at newsstands and online, cover
restaurants, hotels, shopping
and nightlife in most of
Lithuania’s livelier towns. The
official websites of Lithuanian
Tourism and Tourism Vilnius
are also useful resources.
Lithuania has a large number
of visitor information centres Imposing exterior of the Klaipėda State Drama Theatre in Klaipėda
with English-speaking staff and
English-language leaflets, book- theatre culture, although an classical music recitals that
lets and up-to-date local informa- equal passion for theatre exists often have no entry charges.
tion. All of Lithuania’s towns and outside the city. Zapyškis Church (see p265),
cities have their own dedicated The Klaipėda State Drama outside Kaunas, is a particularly
websites, which usually contain Theatre, which dates from atmospheric venue in
schedules and information on 1819, is one of the oldest the countryside.
culture and events. functioning theatres in On the coast, the Klaipėda
Lithuania and the most famous State Music Theatre holds a
outside Vilnius. In Panevėžys, wide array of classical music
Booking and Prices the Juozo Miltinio Drama concerts, opera and other
The booking service Bilietai Theatre is named after legen- performances. Panevėžys
LT has kiosks in most concert dary stage actor and director Civic Art Gallery (see p268)
venues and shopping centres Juozas Miltinis (1907–94), who and Kėdainiai’s Multicultural
in major cities, where tickets taught actors to reject Centre (see p265) also hold
can be bought with credit conservatism and to draw regular concerts.
cards or cash. Tickets can also on their own life experiences
be booked by telephone or while acting.
through a website and can be
collected from a sales office,
or delivered to any address in Classical Music
Lithuania. Prices usually vary Kaunas has several concert
anywhere between 10 and halls that feature music
50 euros per person. regularly. The Kaunas State
Musical Theatre and the Great
Hall of Vytauto Didžiojo
Theatre University are among the
Lithuanian theatre developed preferred venues, but the
during the period of indepen- Kaunas City Symphony
dence between the world Orchestra and Kaunas State
wars, producing young and Choir also perform at less
talented playwrights such as formal venues including the
Balys Sruoga and Kazys Binkis. Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery Beautiful exterior of the Kaunas State
Vilnius has a particularly strong (see p264). Some churches host Musical Theatre
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I T H UA N I A 353
Music Festivals
Several music festivals have
grown in popularity over
the years. The magnificent
Baroque Pažaislis Monastery
complex (see p265), near Kaunas,
forms the backdrop to the
annual Pažaislis Music Festival.
The Edvard Grieg and M K
Čiurlionis Festival, hosted in
Kaunas each spring, features
classical music concerts. The
Muzikinis Pajūris (Musical
Seaside) festival of opera and
symphony takes place every
summer in Klaipėda.
Nightlife
Club life is not limited to the
capital city. Klaipėda has an
increasingly lively and varied
nightlife. A popular place for
dancing and expertly mixed
cocktails in an Old Town attic
is Mr. Bond. Newer venues are
gradually taking the place of
the duller bars and discos in and
around the Old Town. They offer
casinos, concerts and restaurants,
besides dance floors. Klaipėda’s
Kanto Street also has some People enjoying at a brightly lit nightclub in Vilnius
spirited bars full of fun and revelry.
Kaunas has a mix of low-key Jazz, Blues and Folk Music Cinema
bars such as BO in the Old Town Jazz features prominently in Movies screened in Lithuania
and the swinging Nautilus the country’s cultural scene. are shown in their original
Centre, a club frequented by the Among the best jazz festivals is language, which means that
young. The other party-town in Kaunas Jazz (see p212). Kurpiai they can be enjoyed by locals
Lithuania is the coastal resort of in Klaipėda also hosts jazz and visitors. Only one modern
Palanga, where in summer the and blues performances. Folk multiplex, the Forum Cinemas,
entire area around Basanavičiaus music features at the Days of exists in both Vilnius and
gatvė (street) turns into a Live Archaeology amid the Kaunas. However, other cities
pulsating open-air disco from ancient hills forts of Kernavė have decent cinemas, such as
dusk virtually until dawn. (see p258), in July. Cinamon in Klaipėda.
DIRECTORY
Information Klaipėda State Drama Music Festivals Nautilus Centre
Theatre Savanorių 124, Kaunas.
Lithuanian Tourism Teatro 2. Tel (46) 314 464. Edvard Grieg and M K Tel (37) 338 228.
∑ lithuania.travel ∑ kldt.lt
Čiurlionis Festival
∑ kaunofilharmonija.lt
Tourism Vilnius Jazz, Blues and
∑ vilnius-tourism.lt Classical Music Muzikinis Pajūris Folk Music
∑ klaipedosmuzikinis.lt
Booking and Great Hall Kurpiai
Pažaislis Music
Prices S Daukanto 28, Kaunas. Festival Kurpių 1a, Klaipėda.
Tel (37) 327 869. ∑ pazaislis.lt
Bilietai LT ∑ bilietai.lt Tel (46) 410 555.
Kaunas State Musical
Nightlife Cinema
Theatre Theatre
Laisvės alėja 91, Kaunas. BO
Juozo Miltinio Drama Cinamon
Tel (37) 227 113. Muitinės 9-1, Kaunas.
Theatre ∑ cinema.lt
Laisvės 5, Panevėžys. Klaipėda State Music Mr. Bond
Tel (45) 584 614. Theatre Žvejų 10, Klaipėda. Forum Cinemas
∑ miltinio-teatras.lt Danės 19. Tel (46) 397 404. Tel 6086 1007. ∑ forumcinemas.lt
354 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Folk Music
Lithuania’s folk music can be
heard in folk-themed restau-
rants, which are as popular with
locals as they are with visitors.
For an authentic experience,
A scene from the play Three Sisters at the State Small Theatre of Vilnius enjoy the music with a tradi-
tional meal of meat-and-
Information provide pre-recorded English potatoes and Lithuanian beer
Vilnius In Your Pocket, which translations for some perform- at venues such as the rustic
covers the whole spectrum of ances, which can be heard Fort Dvaras (see p326) or the
restaurants, entertainment and using headphones. atmospheric Marceliukės Klėtis.
shopping, as well as upcoming Folk festivals are often played
events, is available at numerous out in the courtyards and halls
shops and kiosks and most of Classical Music, Opera of Vilnius University (see pp224–
the city’s hotels. Brochures and and Ballet 5), or in more low-key spots
leaflets about cultural events can Vilnius has a good classical music such as the Teachers’ House.
be found at the capital’s tourist scene. Both the opulent National
information centres. Posters are Philharmonic and the contemp-
another source of information. orary Congress Palace hold Rock, Blues and Pop
Tickets for concerts, opera, superb concerts. Chamber music Several outstanding Lithuanian
ballet and plays can be pur- concerts are often held at rock and pop performers play
chased at the appropriate the atmospheric Church of regularly at atmospheric venues
venue or booking kiosks. Tickets St Catherine (see p241) and, such as Tamsta Club, Brodvėjus
for all major events in Lithuania occasionally, at the Church of and the Forum Palace. Names
can be bought online from
Bilietai LT.
Theatre
The residents of Vilnius have a
passion for theatre. Productions
by two of the country’s most
outstanding directors, Oskaras
Koršunovas and Eimuntas
Nekrošius, are highly
recommended. The Lithuanian
National Drama Theatre and
the more avant-garde State
Small Theatre of Vilnius A classical music concert in progress at the Congress Palace
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I T H UA N I A 355
Nightlife
Though a little quieter than
many other European capitals,
Vilnius has an abundance of
bars and clubs featuring a
variety of music genres and
both local and international DJs.
The uproarious Bix is for heavy
metal fans, while Mojo Lounge,
hosting parties of all kinds in
the Old Town, attracts the best
DJs. A little more central are
Paparazzi, popular for its
friendly atmosphere and wide
range of cocktails, and Pabo
Latino, a nightclub specializing
in Latin rhythms. Bands often
Live band playing at the Tamsta Club in the Old Town play live at Aula.
DIRECTORY
Information Congress Palace Rock, Blues Jazz
Vilniaus 6–14. and Pop
Bilietai LT Tel 261 8828.
Vilnius Jazz
∑ bilietai.lt Brodvėjus ∑ vilniusjazz.lt
∑ lvso.lt
Vokiečių 4.
Theatre National Opera & Tel 210 7208. Nightlife
Ballet Theatre ∑ brodvejus.lt
Lithuanian National Aula
Vienuolio 1.
Drama Theatre Forum Palace Pilies 11. Tel 268 7173.
Gedimino 4. Tel 262 0727.
Konstitucijos 26.
Tel 262 1593. ∑ opera.lt Bix
Tel 263 6666.
∑ teatras.lt Etmonų 6. Tel 262 7791.
National Philharmonic ∑ forumpalace.lt
State Small Theatre Aušros vartų 5. Mojo Lounge
Siemens Arena
of Vilnius Tel 266 5216. Vokiečių 2.
Ozo 14.
Gedimino 22. ∑ filharmonija.lt Tel 6576 6500.
Tel 249 9869. Tel 247 7576.
∑ vmt.lt ∑ siemens-arena.lt Pablo Latino
Folk Music Trakų 3. Tel 6576 6500.
Tamsta Club
Classical Music, Marceliukės Klėtis A Strazdelio 1. Paparazzi
Opera and Ballet Tuskulėnų gatvė 35. Tel 212 4498. Totorių 3. Tel 212 0135.
Tel 5272 5087. ∑ tamstaclub.lt
Anželika Cholina
Cinema
Dance Theatre Teachers’ House Utenos
Šimulionio 4–103. Vilniaus 39. Entertainment Centre Skalvija
Tel 6883 4181. Tel 262 3514. Ąžuolyno 9. A Goštauto 2–15.
∑ ach.lt ∑ kultura.lt Tel 242 4444. ∑ skalvija.lt
356 TRAVELLERS' NEEDS
Cycling
The relatively flat terrain and
breathtaking scenery of the Baltic
States makes cycling a pleasant
way to get around. However,
mountain bikers will find little to
challenge their skills. It is not all
smooth riding, though, as some
roads are in poor condition. A
Cyclists on a winding path in Gauja National Park, Latvia popular international route is the
EuroVelo route 10, which runs
coast and crosses the Curonian Latvia’s Gauja National Park is along the north of Estonia
Spit, and a particularly good good for walking, particularly through Tallinn, across to the
spot is the Vente Horn on the along the well-marked Līgatne islands of Hiiumaa and Saaremaa
tip of the Nemunas Delta Nature Trail (see p193). There are via ferry, on to Rīga and then
National Park (see p287). The also numerous short trails further south to Klaipėda.
biggest draws are the migra- in the Tērvete Nature Park Bicycle rental is easy in
tions in spring and autumn, (see p171) and visitors Estonia and Latvia, while
mainly between September and looking for hills might in Lithuania there are hire
early October. Early spring is a head for the Latgale outlets in the larger towns
good time to observe seabirds, Uplands (see p202). Tour and cities. A good point
owls, woodpeckers and grouse, companies, such as Eži, of contact for all three
while the largest number of organize walking trips in countries is BaltiCCycle, a
species can be spotted during Valmiera (see p194). non-profit organization
the breeding season between Lithuania has almost 300 which provides details of
late May and early June. hiking trails, of which organized tours, bicycle
The Lithuanian Society of around 170 are in rental and self-guided
Ornithologists also arranges regional or national A cycle sign at cycling. It is also
bird-watching tours. parks. Dzūkija National Vaide, Latvia possible to hire a bike
Park (see p260) is a in one Baltic country
favourite and some of its paths and return it in another.
Hiking and Trekking and facilities have been In Estonia, popular areas for
Despite their lack of hilly terrain, especially adapted for disabled cycling include Lahemaa
the Baltic States attract walkers visitors. Short, well-signposted National Park and the islands
with their extensive forests, walks include the 5-km (3-mile) of Muhu (see p95), Saaremaa
attractive rivers, lakes and rural long Šeirė Nature Trail and the and Hiiumaa. City Bike is a
calm. The relatively high chance route through the Čepkelių bog notable organization that
of spotting wildlife such as roe from the park’s headquarters. provides cycling tours and
deer, wild boar, moose and rental services in Estonia.
wolves also draws a number of Easy rides in Latvia include
walkers here. Each country the route from Rīga to Jūrmala
has a good selection of well- (see pp174–5), while the best
marked trails with campsites opportunity for mountain
and guesthouses along the biking is in the Gauja Valley
way, and local tourist offices near Sigulda (see p192). There
can suggest routes or arrange are marked biking routes
guides for visitors. around Kuldīga (see p183) and
In Estonia, Lahemaa National from Cēsis (see p192–3) to
Park (see pp110–11) has trails Valmiera; Eži arranges trips in
of varying lengths covering a the latter area.
diverse terrain. There are also The Lithuanian section of the
pleasant routes surrounding Baltic Coast route includes an
Tartu (see pp118–19) and on the attractive stretch between
islands of Saaremaa (see pp96–7) Palanga (see p286) and Klaipėda
and Hiiumaa (see pp94–5). (see pp284–5). There is also a
A more unusual activity is marked route along the coast
bog-walking in Soomaa The rolling hills of Dzukija National Park, of the Curonian Lagoon to
National Park (see pp104–5). Lithuania Nemunas Delta National Park.
358 TRAVELLERS' NEEDS
Fishermen angling from the banks of the Lielupe river in Jelgava, Latvia
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 359
Mushroom- and
Berry-Picking
Picking berries in spring and
mushrooms during autumn
are popular activities in the
Baltic States. In fact, mush-
rooms are often a source of
income in rural areas.
Often, the best way to
arrange mushroom- and berry-
picking is to ask your hotel or
guesthouse to organize it. It is
advisable to take a local along
for guidance on both where
to look and which varieties of
mushroom are edible and tasty.
The Estonian Rural Tourism Canoeing in Soomaa National Park, Estonia
website has details of farms
which can offer mushroom- skiing in Latvia is Žagarkalns, Water Activities
and berry-picking. The Džukija located close to Cēsis, but there With hundreds of rivers and
and Aukštaitija national parks are numerous other options lakes, and an extensive coastline,
offer some of the best listed in the Country Holidays the Baltic States offer ample
opportunities. Visitors must website (see p295). Visitors opportunities for canoeing,
bear in mind that it is usually seeking adventure should try kayaking, windsurfing and
illegal to pick the cranberries the bobsleigh run in Sigulda rafting. The lack of any serious
which grow on peat bogs. operated by Taxi Bob. In rapids may deter keen white-
Berry-picking with Vaskna Lithuania, Ignalina is a favoured water enthusiasts, but it is perfect
Turismitalu near Võru also destination for skiers. The for leisurely river excursions.
teaches visitors how to make Lithuanian Winter Sports Canoeing is one of the best
traditional alcoholic Christmas Centre is one of several options ways to explore the wilderness
drinks. The website of in the area, with four downhill of Soomaa National Park in
Countryside Tourism of pistes, cross-country skiing and Estonia, where visitors can also
Lithuania has useful infor- a skating rink. For ice-skating on try to build haabjas (longboats).
mation on mushroom- frozen lakes, including Trakai, A number of water activities are
and berry-picking. visitors may contact Kempingas provided by Vesipapp, Surf
Slėnyje. Camping Villa Paradise and Reimann Retked.
Ventainė regularly organizes Of the Baltic countries, Latvia
Winter Sports snowmobiling and ice-fishing has the most developed water
With long winters usually on the Curonian Lagoon. tourism and the Gauja river is a
providing several months popular spot. Specialist
of snow coverage, it is not operator Campo offers
surprising that cross-country a range of river trips
skiing is popular. What may be and Pāvilosta Marina
more unexpected is the number arranges catamaran
of downhill ski runs in a region sailing lessons. In
where the highest point is just Lithuania, the Aukštaitija
about 318 m (1,043 ft) above region, with almost
sea level. Although the Baltic 300 lakes linked by
States do not attract hardcore waterways, allows
skiers and snowboarders, there tour companies to
are adequate opportunities for create multi-day sailing
those who enjoy the sport. trips. Elsewhere, the
In Estonia, some of the best Trakai National Sports
skiing, snowboarding, and Health Centre
snowmobiling, snowtubing and offers kayaking,
ski-jumping are found around canoeing, yachting and
Otepää (see p122), such as diving. Similarly, the
at Kuutsemäe Resort. Cross- Zarasai Water Sports
country skiing is also possible at Centre offers water-
the Soomaa National Park. skiing and windsurfing.
Details for winter activities are Klaipėda’s Oktopusas
listed on the Estonian Rural diving centre arranges
Tourism website (see p295). Enthusiasts enjoying skiing in Kuutsemäe, dives in lakes and
A premier spot for downhill Otepää, Estonia the Baltic Sea.
360 TRAVELLERS' NEEDS
Golf
Soviet Russians were not keen
on golf, so the sport is relatively
new to the region and there are
few good courses. In Estonia, a
number of golf clubs are Entrance to the Spa Vilnius, one of the best spas in Druskininkai, Lithuania
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 361
DIRECTORY
Bird-Watching Fishing Pāvilosta Marina Saliena
Ostmalas 4, Pāvilosta, Egļuciems, Babītes
Engure Estfly Pagasts, Latvia. Tel 716
Latvia. Tel 2748 0131.
Ornithological Centre Mäe 22–21, Kunda. 0300. ∑ capitals.lt
∑ pavilostamarina.lv
Tel 2847 4420. Tel 5645 2789. Sostinių
∑ eedp.lv ∑ estfly.com Reimann Retked
Pipiriškių k, Pastrėvio sen,
Tel 511 4099.
Estonian Nature Latvian Anglers Lithuania. Tel 6199 9999.
∑ retked.ee
Tours Association ∑ kalevspa.ee
Linnuse tee 1, Lāčplēša 23–17. Tel 2928 Surf Paradise
Läänemaa. 5934. ∑ dzivaisudens.lv Ristna, Hiiumaa, Estonia. Spa Breaks
∑ paap.ee
Tel 477 8214. Lithuanian Fishing Estonian Spa
∑ naturetours.ee Services Trakai National Sports Association
Estonian Taikos 43, Neringa. and Health Centre Sadama 9–11, Haapsalu.
Ornithological Tel 6762 2766. ∑ lithua Karaimų 73, Lithuania. ∑ estonianspas.eu
nianfishing.com Tel 5285 5501.
Society Kalev Spa
Veski 4, Tartu. Vesipapp Aia 18, Tallinn. Tel 649
Tel 742 2195. Mushroom- and Tel 511 9117. 3300. ∑ kalevspa.ee
∑ eoy.ee Berry-Picking ∑ vesipapp.ee
Meriton Spa
Latvian Birding Countryside Tourism Zarasai Water Sports Toompuiestee 27, Estonia.
∑ putni.lv Tel 3740 0354. Centre Tel 667 7111.
∑ atostogoskaime.lt Laukesos village, Zarasai, ∑ parkinn.com
Lithuanian Society of Lithuania. Tel 6123 6862.
Ornithologists Vaskna Turismitalu Spa Vilnius
∑ poilsiobaze.lt
Naugarduko 47–33, Haanja vald, Võrumaa, Dineikos k 1, Druskininkai.
Vilnius. Tel 8521 30498. Estonia. Tel 782 9173. Tel 3135 3811.
Spectator Sports
∑ birdlife.lt ∑ spa-vilnius.lt
Winter Sports Arena Rīga
Hiking and Skanstes iela 21. Brewery Tours
Camping Villa
Trekking Tel 6738 8200.
A Le Coq Brewery
Ventainė
∑ arenariga.lv
Eži Ventės k, Lithuania. Laulupeo 15, Tartu,
Beātes iela 30a, Valmiera, Tel 4416 8525. Kalev Stadium Estonia. Tel 744 9711.
Latvia. Tel 6420 7263. ∑ ventaine.lt Juhkentali tänav 12, ∑ alecoq.ee
∑ ezi.lv Tallinn. Tel 644 5171. Kalnapilis
Kempingas Slėnyje
Slėnio 1, Trakai, Lithuania. Lokomotive Stadium Taikos avenue 1,
Nemunas Tour
Tel 5285 3880. Jelgavas iela 54, Panevėžys, Lithuania. Tel
Gėlių 50, Ringaudai,
∑ camptrakai.lt Daugavpils, Lithuania. 262 7526. ∑ kalnapilis.lt
Lithuania. Tel 3756 3766.
∑ lokomotive.lv
∑ nemunastour.com Kuutsemäe Resort Rinkuškiai
Tel 766 9007. Siemens Arena Alyvų 8, Birži, Lithuania.
Cycling ∑ kuutsemae.ee Ozo 14, Lithuania. Tel 4503 5293.
Tel 5247 7576. ∑ rinkuskiai.lt
BaltiCCycle Lithuanian Winter ∑ siemensarena.lt Švyturys
Tel 6995 6009. Sports Centre
Kūlių vartų 7, Klaipėda,
∑ bicycle.lt Sporto 3, Ignalina. Golf Lithuania. Tel 4648 4000.
Tel 3865 4193. ∑ lzsc.lt.
City Bike ∑ svyturys.lt
Estonian Golf
Vene 33, Tallinn. Taxi Bob Association Utenos
Tel 511 1819. Peldu iela 2, Sigulda, Tel 504 1792. Pramonės 12, Utena,
∑ citybike.ee Latvia. Tel 2924 4948. ∑ golf.ee Lithuania.
∑ taxibob.lv ∑ utenosalus.lt
Horse-Riding Estonian Golf &
Žagarkalns Country Club Užavas
Lietuvos Žirgynas Tel 2626 6266. Manniva küla, Jõelähtme, Užavas pagasts, Ventspils,
Žirgų 2, Riešė, Lithuania. ∑ zagarkalns.lv Harjumaa. Tel 602 5290. Latvia. Tel 6363 0595.
Tel 610 02810. ∑ egcc.ee ∑ uzavas-alus.lv
Water Activities
Tihuse Riding Farm Europos Centro Valmiermuižas
Hellamaa, Muhu, Estonia. Campo Girijos village, Lithuania. Dzirnavu iela 2, Valmiera,
Tel 514 8667. Kronu 23d, Rīga. Tel 2922 Tel 6162 6366. Latvia. Tel 2026 4269.
∑ tihuse.ee 2339. ∑ campo.laivas.lv ∑ golfclub.lt ∑ valmiermuiza.lv
Zirgzandales Oktopusas Ozo Golf Club Volfas Engelman
Mārupes novads, near Mainų 29, Klaipėda, Milgravja 16, Rīga. Kaunakiemio 2, Kaunas,
Rīga. Tel 2912 8841. Lithuania. Tel 4638 1850. Tel 739 4399. Lithuania. Tel 8007 2427.
∑ eng.zirgzandales.lv ∑ oktopusas.lt ∑ ozogolf.lv ∑ volfasengelman.lt
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
After so many years of being excluded from centres that often extends into small towns
the map of Europe, the Baltic States of Estonia, and offers an abundance of useful literature
Latvia and Lithuania are now drawing a great to help visitors get the best out of their trip.
number of eager visitors to discover the Moreover, with the region’s capitals only a
region’s hidden treasures. These countries are relatively short drive away from each other,
extremely visitor-friendly destinations that it is easy to explore the Baltic States either
offer a wealth of historic sights and cultural individually or as a whole. Tour operators are
activities as well as great natural beauty, good growing in number and offer a good variety
food and fascinating insights into the region’s of packages. The practical information below
complex past. Each country has a well- and on pages 366–7 covers each of the three
developed network of tourist information Baltic States.
When to Visit
The best time to visit the Baltic
States is from May to October,
when the weather is generally
mild and rarely very cold. It is an
ideal time to explore the region’s
natural wonders by visiting one
of the many national parks or
taking long treks in the country-
side, camping or going swim-
ming in the sea or one of the
numerous lakes. The best festivals
generally take place in summer,
while some small museums and
historic sights are only open
between May and September.
The Old Towns of Tallinn and
Rīga are especially crowded at
the peak of summer. Vilnius’s
larger Old Town, however, is less
cramped. Autumn is often Impressive building of the French Embassy in Rīga, Latvia
splendid in the Baltic States, but
the weather can abruptly turn significantly at any time. The least Travel Safety Advice
chilly as early as October. pleasant time to visit is January, Visitors can get up-to-date travel
The capitals are also very the coldest month, and the rainy safety information from the
atmospheric in winter, when they month of April, when the snow Foreign and Commonwealth
are blanketed in snow, although melts into a mass of sludge. Office in the UK (www.gov.uk/
temperatures can plunge foreign-travel-advice), the
State Department in the US
Visas and Passports (www.travel.state.gov) and
Citizens of EU member states, the the Department of Foreign
USA, Canada, Australia and New Affairs and Trade in Australia
Zealand only need a valid passport (www.dfat.gov.au or www.
for entry into Estonia, Latvia and smartraveller.gov.au).
Lithuania for a period of up to
90 days in a half-year period.
Those wishing to stay beyond Customs Regulations
the permitted 90 days will need to EU citizens are not subject to
apply for a national long-term visa customs regulations, provided
or a residence permit. Visitors from they adhere to EU guidelines.
other countries should enquire at All visitors should check for any
the relevant embassy or consulate customs duty or special permi-
for visa requirements before travel- ssion required to export a cultural
ling. The official websites of the object, before buying it. For
Ministry of Foreign Affairs for detailed information on all these
Street café close to Vilnius Cathedral, each of the three countries offers guidelines, entrance regulations
Vilnius, Lithuania information on visa regulations. and visa cost, it is advisable to
Velo-taxi on Tallinn’s Town Hall Square
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 365
DIRECTORY
Visas and Passports
Estonia
∑ vm.ee
Latvia
∑ am.gov.lv
Lithuania
∑ urm.lt
Customs Regulations
∑ ec.europa.eu
Tourist Information
Visitors at the tourist information office in Tallinn, Estonia ∑ visitestonia.com
∑ latvia.travel
visit the official website of the people, who are always eager to ∑ lithuania.travel
European Commission. promote their area and can offer
information on accommodation, Embassies and
museums, historic sights, nature Consulates in Tallinn
Tourist Information trails, entertainment and restau-
Canada
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania rants. Free brochures covering
Toomkooli 13. Tel 627 3311.
have a remarkably well- local and national sights and
∑ canada.ee
developed network of events are available at these
tourist information offices, which also sell UK
centres supported by an more detailed maps and Wismari 6. Tel 667 4700.
equally advanced guidebooks at nominal ∑ ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk
structure of tourism rates. For a full list of all US
websites. All cities and tourist information Kentmanni 20. Tel 668 8100.
most major towns have offices across each ∑ estonia.usembassy.gov
a tourist information Logo, country, visit their
office, which is usually Lithuanian Tourism websites. Latvia and Embassies and
located in or close to the Lithuania also have Consulates in RĪga
town square. In the case of very tourist information centres
small towns, the office is often in the UK, Finland, Germany, Australia
situated in a museum or within Sweden and Russia. Vilandes iela 7. Tel 6732 0509.
some other historic building. Canada
Tourist offices in cities and larger Business Hours
Baznīcas iela 20/22.
towns are open from 9am Throughout Estonia, Latvia and Tel 6781 3945.
to 6pm on weekdays. The offices Lithuania, banks and state institu-
are open for shorter hours on tions are generally open from 9am France
Saturdays and are usually open on to 5 or 6pm. Private businesses are Raina bulvāris 9. Tel 6703 6600.
Sundays. In remote places, open- increasingly working longer hours UK
ing hours are more erratic and it is and are open from 9am to any- J Alunana iela 5. Tel 6777 4700.
advisable to check in advance. where between 6 and 8pm. ∑ ukinlatvia.fco.gov.uk
Tourist offices are staffed by For opening hours of shops,
US
friendly, English-speaking local see pages 332, 336 and 340.
S Velsa 1. Tel 6710 7000.
Embassies and
Consulates in Vilnius
Australia
Vilniaus 23. Tel 212 3369.
Canada
Jogailos 4. Tel 249 0950.
UK
Antakalnio 2. Tel 246 2900.
∑ ukinlithuania.fco.gov.uk
US
Akmenų 6. Tel 266 5500.
∑ vilnius.usembassy.gov
Imposing exterior of the Hipoteku Bank in Limbaži, Latvia
366 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Exhibition on the Lithuanian partisans in the KGB Museum (see p242) in Vilnius, Lithuania
Museums, Churches many museums open for (both buses and trolleybuses),
and Historic Sights shorter hours or just remain free entry to museums and
Museums in the Baltic States closed. Some historic sights can discounts on tours, accom-
keep rather erratic hours, so it is only be visited as part of a modation and restaurants.
advisable to check opening guided tour. Organizers often
times before visiting. Usually, try to accommodate single
they open from 10am to 5 or visitors into a group. Admission Charges
6pm during summer, although In all three Baltic States,
in some cases they open at admission charges vary
11am or even midday. Monday Discount Card Schemes considerably depending
is the official closing day for A cost-effective way of explor- on the type of museum and
most museums, though some ing Tallinn, Vilnius and Rīga is to where it is located. Most
are also closed on Tuesdays. purchase a city card. The Tallinn museums away from the
Nearly all museums open on Card costs €31 for 24 hours, €19 capitals are quite reasonably
Saturdays and many on for 48 hours and €49 for 72 priced. Ticket prices in Tallinn,
Sundays. However, tour hours. It entitles holders to free Rīga and Vilnius are more
operators often arrange for entrance to 40 major expensive, but still
museums to open for a group. museums and tourist reasonable. Students
Other sights, such as castles sights, free sightseeing and senior citizens can
and churches, tend to have tours, use of public obtain discounts. State
fairly regular opening hours in transport and admission museums in Estonia
summer, between 9 or 10am to a range of entertain- offer free entrance on
and 4 or 5pm, Tuesday to ment venues, including the last Saturday of each
Saturday. In winter, however, a bowling centre, a month. In Latvia, state
water park and a major museums give free
nightclub. It can also get admission on the last
visitors a discount in Wednesday of each
many restaurants and Ticket to month, and in Lithuania
shops. The card is on St Peter’s, Rīga many museums do not
sale at tourist infor- charge an entrance fee
mation centres, hotels, travel on Wednesdays.
agents, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn
Port and online. The Rīga Card
costs €16 for 24 hours, €20 for What to Wear
48 hours and €26 for 72 hours. The chilly winters in the Baltic
It entitles holders to free admis- countries make thick layers of
sion to many museums, a clothing necessary, as well as
walking tour of the Old Town gloves, hats and thick-soled
and a discount at a range of waterproof shoes. In summer,
hotels. There are two types of lightweight garments are usually
Vilnius City Card, 24 hours and adequate, but it is best to carry a
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral (see p185) 72 hours. The card entitles jacket for the evenings. In spring,
in Liepāja, Latvia holders to free public transport carry an umbrella. Comfortable
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 367
Local Time
The clocks of the Baltic States
are set to Eastern European
Standard Time and are two
hours ahead of Greenwich
Mean Time (GMT+2) and seven
hours ahead of Eastern Standard
Time (EST+7). Clocks go forward
one hour on the last Sunday in
March and go back one hour on
The cobbled Viru Street in Tallinn’s Old Town the last Sunday in October.
368 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Health Care
Standards of health care in
the Baltics are now at least
equal to those in other
European countries. EU citizens
will be treated free of charge
provided they bring their
Health Insurance card (EHIC)
with them, together with
another form of photographic
identification.
Minor medical complaints
can be dealt with at a pharmacy.
Most pharmacies stock a wide Interior of the Town Hall Pharmacy (see p64), in Tallinn’s Old Town
range of international drugs. For
serious health concerns visit the Rīga all have a choice of safe to drink, but is best avoided
nearest hospital. standard Western European as it does not taste very good.
Private clinics exist in all major clinics that are significantly Bottled mineral water is better.
cities and are an option if you cheaper than private clinics
require non-emergency in the West. Check to see if
treatment. Tallinn, Vilnius and your existing insurance policy Pharmacies
covers all emergencies. If not, Minor ailments and accidents
it is advisable to take out can often be treated by staff at a
comprehensive travel insurance. local pharmacy (apteek in
As there are virtually no Estonian, aptieka in Latvian and
significant health risks in the vaistinė in Lithuanian), which
Baltic States, precautionary will usually stock a large
immunization is not mandatory. selection of international drugs
However, there is the risk as well as many herbal
of acquiring tick-borne medicines that are produced
encephalitis in woodland areas, locally. Pharmacies generally
so if you are planning to spend open from 8am to 7 or 8pm on
any length of time in a forest weekdays and until 3 or 4pm on
in summer, you should get Saturdays. There are a few
Exterior of the Medical Diagnostic vaccinated against it. In Tallinn, 24-hour pharmacies in Tallinn,
Centre, Vilnius Rīga and Vilnius, tap water is Rīga and Vilnius.
DIRECTORY
Emergency in Tallinn Central Medical Help Fire
Estonia Hospital in Rīga Tel 01, 112.
Ravi 18.
Ambulance 24-Hour Pharmacy Police
Tel 622 7070. Tel 02, 112.
Tel 112. Audēju 20.
∑ itk.ee
Tel 6721 3340.
Fire Roadside Assistance
Tel 112. Tallinn Mustamäe ARS Tel 1888.
Hospital Skolas 5. Tel 6720 1007.
Police J Sütiste 19. ∑ ars-med.lv Medical Help
Tel 112.
Tel 617 1300. in Vilnius
Roadside Assistance ∑ regionaalhaigla.ee
Paul Stradiņš Clinical
Tel 1888. University Hospital 24-Hour Pharmacy
Emergency Pilsoņu 13. Gedimino pr 27.
Medical Help in Latvia Tel 6706 9600. Tel 261 0135.
in Tallinn ∑ stradini.lv
Medical Diagnostic
Ambulance Rīga Hospital
24-Hour Pharmacy and Treatment Centre
Tel 03, 112. Number One
Tõnismägi 5. V. Grybo 32A.
Tel 644 2282. Fire Bruņinieku 5. Tel 6727 Tel 233 3000 or 698
Tel 01, 112. 0491. ∑ 1slimnica.lv 00000.
Qvalitas Swedish-
∑ medcentras.lt
Estonian Medical Police Emergency
Centre Tel 02, 112. in Lithuania Vilnius University
Parnu mnt 102c. Emergency Hospital
Tel 605 1500. Roadside Assistance Ambulance Šiltnamių 29.
∑ qvalitas.ee Tel 1888. Tel 03, 112. Tel 216 9140.
370 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Swedbank
Banking Hours ∑ swedbank.ee
In Estonia and Latvia, banks are
usually open from Monday to Credit Cards
Friday between 9am and 6pm.
Major banks in big cities stay MasterCard
open on Saturdays, from 9am to ∑ mastercard.com
2pm in Estonia and from 10am Visa Electron
to 3pm in Latvia. In Lithuania,
∑ visa.com
opening hours vary, with bank
branches operating from 8am
to 5pm on weekdays. Banks in
big cities open on Saturdays largest networks. Banks
from 8am to 3pm or 10am to usually charge between 2 and
5pm, and, in rare cases, for a few 3 per cent commission for
hours on Sundays. changing money.
Distinctively signposted bureau de change Bureaux de change are
in Latvia extremely widespread in the
ATMs three capitals and are open
There is an extremely wide for long hours, 7 days a week.
network of ATMs in the Baltic Banks and Bureaux They offer rates competitive to
States, spread across most de Change the banks, except in Estonia,
major town centres and the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania where commission can be as
capital cities. Some petrol have a staggering number high as 25 per cent. Changing
stations have ATMs and most of banks. The biggest is the money in hotels in all three
small towns have at least two or Swedish-owned, pan-Baltic countries should also be
three. Most ATMs have English- Swedbank. It has branches in avoided, as they often offer
language options and accept all just about every town as well unfavourable exchange rates.
major international credit and as many branches and ATMs in
debit cards, such as MasterCard, the cities. Sampo Bank and SEB
Visa Electron, VisaPlus and are major banks in Estonia. In Credit Cards and
Cirrus/Maestro, and you can Latvia, Latvijas Banka, SEB, Traveller’s Cheques
withdraw cash with no Citadele and Nordea are well Traveller’s cheques are best
additional charges. However, established. In Lithuania, avoided as very few banks now
most ATMs issue high- Vilniaus Bankas (SEB) and change them and they are
denomination banknotes. Lietuvos Bankas have the unheard of in shops. As there
is a wide network of ATMs
across all three countries,
either cash or a credit card
is a preferable option.
All the major credit cards are
widely accepted, except in the
smallest shops and cafés. Some
museums outside the capitals
also require cash payment. Bus
and train fares must usually
be paid in cash, both at the
One of the many 24-hour ATMs of Snoras, a bank in Lithuania stations and on board.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 371
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 2- and 1-euro coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5- , 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
372 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
The Internet
Nearly all hotels have Internet
connections and many cafés
and restaurants have Wi-Fi
access, most of which is free.
Internet cafés are not as Customers at a newspaper kiosk in Ventspils, Latvia
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 373
LMT
∑ lmt.lv
Tele2
∑ tele2.lv
Postal Services
DHL
∑ dhl.lv
DPD
∑ dpd.lv
A Plus Punkts kiosk selling SIM-card packages and top-up credit, Rīga
Latvijas Pasts
Making a Phone Call second phone, which can be Brīvības bulvāris 32, Rīga.
All valid telephone numbers in found at shops and stalls in Tel 6750 2815.
Latvia have eight digits, except shopping malls, and signing up ∑ pasts.lv
those for contacting some to a pay-as-you-go plan.
special public services. All
mobile numbers start with 2; open longer, from 7am to 9pm,
landlines start with 6, and The Internet on weekdays, from 9am to 8pm
occasionally 5. Speedy, free-of-charge Wi-Fi is on Saturdays and from10am to
Now that public telephones widely available at restaurants, 8pm on Sundays.
have been withdrawn, the hotels and cafés in Rīga and Major international couriers
easiest way to make much of the rest of Latvia. The such as DHL and DPD
international calls is simply with rapid growth of its availability operate in Latvia, but the
your own mobile phone after means that Internet cafés have cheapest way of sending a
registering with one of the three become redundant and are parcel home is probably with
mobile phone operators active virtually non-existent. One can Latvijas Pasts. They can send
in the country, LMT, Tele2 or easily be guided by a local to parcels to a specific address,
Bite. EU regulations ensure the nearest Wi-Fi connection. from post office to post office,
that roaming charges are not or via courier.
extortionate for those using
a European phone. If roaming Postal Services
charges are a concern, you Branches of Latvia’s state-
Dialling Codes
could purchase a prepaid owned post office, Latvijas • Mobile numbers start with
2; landline numbers tend to
calling card for international Pasts, are found all over the
start with 6.
calls, which allows connection country. In Rīga the biggest
• Toll-free numbers begin
through a toll-free number and is located at Brivibas iela 32 with 80; premium-rate
gives automated instructions in (entrance on Merkela iela), but numbers start with 8 or 9.
numerous languages. there are smaller post offices in • To make an international call
the city centre. Sending a letter from Latvia, first press “+”,
of up to 50 g within Europe then the destination’s
Mobile Phones costs €0.90; to send it country code and number.
Latvia’s three mobile phone registered costs €1.70. • To call Latvia from abroad
operators LMT, Tele2 and The busy Brivibas post office dial the international access
Bite provide prepaid SIM cards branch is open from 7:30am to code (00 from the UK, 011
(your own phone will need to 7pm on weekdays and from from US and Canada),
be unlocked). Visitors staying in 9am to 3pm on Saturdays, but followed by 371, Latvia’s
Latvia for longer periods have is closed on Sundays. A branch country code.
the option of buying a cheap at the central train station is
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 375
TRAVELLING TO ESTONIA
It is easy to reach Estonia by air, as several station are only a short taxi or bus ride away.
major international carriers from many Tallinn has good coach connections with the
European cities provide links to Tallinn, the rest of Europe, although travelling by coach
capital of Estonia. The country is also well can be slow. Reaching Estonia from Western
served by ferries, with regular services to Europe by train is almost impossible, as the
Tallinn and the island of Saaremaa. In Tallinn, only international service is from Russia.
the ferry port and main railway station are A pan-Baltic train, Rail Baltica, is in the works,
conveniently located close to the Old Town but is a complex and expensive undertaking,
and city centre, while the airport and coach with completion set for 2024.
Arriving by Sea
Estonia is very well served
by ferry, with Tallinn’s
Passenger Port (reisisadam)
Gleaming interior of Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport handling about 7 million
passengers a year. The main
Arriving by Air London Stansted and line, Tallink, has routes to
The sleek-looking Lennart Meri Manchester; easyjet flies Helsinki (Finland), Rostock
Tallinn Airport is the only from London Gatwick. (Germany) and Stockholm
Estonian airport with regular (Sweden), while other carriers,
scheduled flights. In recent such as Viking Line and Eckerö
years, the airport has become From Tallinn Airport to Line, are accessible from
a regional hub with approxi- the City Centre Helsinki and Stockholm. Linda
mately 12 airlines using the Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Line runs a hydrofoil service
airport, including major carriers is about 3 km (2 miles) from to Helsinki.
such as Finnair and Lufthansa. the city centre. Taxis wait Travellers from Helsinki are
The Latvian airline airBaltic outside and the ride to the spoiled for choice, with a
makes regular flights to Tallinn city centre costs around €10. range of catamarans and
with a quick stop in Rīga. Bus number 2 takes up to ferries making the crossing.
Nordica is the rightful 15 minutes to reach the centre The Passenger Port is within
successor to the bankrupt and costs around €1.50. It walking distance of Tallin’s Old
national airline, Estonian Air. leaves every 20 minutes from Town and a taxi ride should
Based in Tallinn, it offers Monday to Saturday, and cost between €3 and €5,
a good standard of service in every 30 minutes although it is close enough
both business and tourist class. on Sunday. to walk. The local bus no. 2
The airline has direct links with connects the port with the city
several major European destina- centre, bus station and airport.
tions as well as some Estonian Tallinn is also included
cities and islands. Visitors from in a choice
outside Europe need to catch a of Baltic Sea
connecting flight from cities such cruises. Pärnu
as London, Helsinki, Copenhagen and Saaremaa
or Stockholm. Island are also
A couple of low-cost carriers included in
provide daily flights to Tallinn some cruise
from the UK: Ryanair flies from Taxi stand near Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport ship itineraries.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 377
DIRECTORY
Airlines
airBaltic
∑ airbaltic.com
easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
Finnair
∑ finnair.com
Lufthansa
∑ lufthansa.com
Nordica
∑ nordica.ee
Ryanair
Tallink ferry on a voyage across the Baltic Sea ∑ ryanair.com
Travelling by Ferry
The Estonian islands are well
served by a number of car and
passenger ferry connections.
There are also regular services
Local train waiting at Tallinn railway station between Rohuküla harbour
(near Haapsalu), Heltermaa
Travelling by Train or updated and services are (on Hiiumaa Island) and Vormsi.
Estonia’s rail network is the usually posted on large display Virtsu harbour (north of Pärnu)
least efficient way to see the boards at the stations. has hourly connections with
country. Services have been Muhu Island, which is linked with
so drastically reduced that nearby Saaremaa Island by road.
the choice of destinations is Travelling by Bus Saaremaa itself is connected
limited. There are rail routes The bus network in Estonia is with Hiiumaa from Triigi harbour
between Tallinn and Narva, efficiently run and is good value in the northeast. Saaremaa has a
Tartu, Pärnu and Viljandi, and for money. Inter-city buses run special summertime ferry service
an electric train runs between regularly and are generally to Ventspils in Latvia. Check
Tallinn and Paldiski 10 times a comfortable. Some companies Saaremaa Shipping Company
day. It is usually advisable to run express routes, which avoid Limited’s official website for
catch a kiirrong (fast train),
although these are still rela-
tively slow compared to those
in Western Europe. However,
there are now express trains,
with first-class carriages,
between Tallinn and Tartu.
Edelaraudtee runs inter-city
passenger services and
Elron, a government-owned
train operator, runs local
electric trains.
It is best to buy pilet (tickets)
on board, although some can
be bought online or at the
ticket offices in Tallinn. There
are no passes for rail travel.
Timetables are rarely printed Bussireisid’s air-conditioned inter-city express bus en route from Tartu
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 379
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Edelaraudtee
∑ edel.ee
Elron
∑ elron.ee
Travelling by Bus
Bussireisid
∑ bussireisid.ee
SEBE
∑ sebe.ee
Taisto
∑ taisto.ee
Ferry from Virtsu on its way to Saaremaa Island
Travelling by Ferry
route details. Veeteed runs a Travelling by Car
Saaremaa Shipping
ferry service between Pärnu and Driving is by far the best way to Company Limited
the islands of Kihnu and Vormsi, get around Estonia. Conditions ∑ tuulelaevad.ee
although the service is less are generally good on main
Veeteed
regular. In summer, ferries tend roads and distances are relatively
∑ veeteed.com
to quickly fill up and passengers short. However, country roads are
can be left waiting in long severely potholed and dirt roads Travelling by Air
queues if they don’t reserve are also common in many rural
their tickets well in advance. parts of the country. Avies
Passengers travelling by car There are no motorways and ∑ avies.ee
should arrive at the harbour overtaking is the norm. It is
about 20 minutes before the mandatory by law to drive with Car Hire
scheduled departure time. the headlights on at all times Avis
In winter, ferry services are of the day. Wearing a seatbelt is ∑ avis.com
often cancelled when the compulsory for drivers as well as
sea freezes over, although passengers. The speed limit is Budget
∑ budget.com
officially designated ice roads 50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up
are established if the ice is areas and 90 kmph (56 mph) Easy Car Rent
thick enough. on the main roads. In Estonia, ∑ easycarrent.eu
drinking alcohol and driving is Europcar
illegal. By law, winter tyres must ∑ europcar.com
Travelling by Air be fitted between December
Estonian Air, the country’s and March. Hertz
Petrol stations are quite rare in ∑ hertz.com
national carrier (see p376),
operates domestic flights that remote places so it is advisable National
connect the major cities. Avies to fill up on petrol when leaving ∑ nationalcar.com
also runs a few daily flights a city or town.
between Tallinn, Kuressaare and
Kärdla. It is best to book well in
advance because their planes Car Hire
are very small and can only seat There are numerous car rental
up to seven passengers. There firms, including Avis, Budget,
are also some flights from Pärnu Europcar, Hertz and National.
Airport to Kuressaare and Kihnu A local company, Easy Car Rent,
which are reasonably priced, also offers good deals. All
and a good option in winter require a major credit card
when the sea is frozen. Tartu and a valid international driver’s
Airport has connections to Rīga licence. Rental rates are
and Stockholm. Kärdla acts comparable to those in Western
mainly as a stopover point Europe. Outside Tallinn, there
for chartered flights in Europe. are few rental options except in
The daily domestic service to major towns. However, some of
Tallinn is the only regular the Tallinn-based chains can
service coming from the airport organize car hire in other parts Autorent Terminal of Avis, a global car
at Kärdla. of the country. rental chain
380 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Tallinn tram, a convenient mode of transport for short hops around the city
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 381
DIRECTORY
Buses, Trolley Buses
and Trams
Tallinn Bus Company
∑ soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
Taxis
Reval Takso
Tel 601 4600.
A taxi waiting in a cobblestoned street in the Old Town, Tallinn
∑ reval-takso.ee
using a mobile phone, following journey and ensure that the Tallink Takso
instructions posted on signs. meter is running. Tel 640 8921.
Rates range from around €1 per ∑ tallinktakso.ee
15 minutes to €4.60 per hour.
The Old Town has a seven-day, Cycling Tulika Takso
24-hour paid parking in effect, Getting around Tallinn by Tel 612 0001.
which starts at €0.75 per bicycle is a good option, ∑ tulika.ee
15 minutes. A relatively although it is not so practical in
convenient option might be to the cobbled streets of the Old Cycling
leave your car at one of several Town. There are plenty of
centrally located guarded bicycle rental firms in the city, CityBike
parking lots. These range in such as CityBike, that offer a Tel 5111 819.
price from about €0.75 to wide range of organized tours ∑ citybike.ee
€1.90 per hour. In the summer accompanied by a guide. It is
months, paid parking is also in also possible to rent a bicycle Velotaxi
effect in the Pirita istrict. and take off by yourself. As there
are hardly any bicycle lanes in Green Gears
Tallinn, special care should be Tel 5385 5353.
Taxis taken when cycling along ∑ greengears.ee
There is an abundance of taxis congested streets.
in Tallinn, although it is best to
take one from a taxi stand or from most hotels and tourist
to book one in advance from Walking information centres.
reputable companies such as Walking is the ideal way to
Tulika Takso, Tallink Takso or experience the busy streets
Reval Takso. Taxi stands can be of Tallinn’s Old Town and Velotaxi
found near large hotels, major the city centre. In general, Velotaxis, or bicycle-taxis, are a
intersections and also next to Tallinn is a pedestrian-friendly novel way of seeing the city.
the Estonian Drama Theatre. environment, although a good They operate from March to
Hailing a taxi on the street is road map is useful to avoid October and cost around €2.25
risky, as there are many getting lost in its labyrinthine for an adult and €0.95 for a
dishonest taxi drivers who streets. A huge number of child, and can be ordered on
overcharge foreign visitors. walking tours are available the Green Gears website.
However, legislation has been
introduced to help improve the
situation. All taxi drivers are
obliged to display their prices
in English, on the vehicle’s rear
right-hand window, and to
provide a receipt on request. If
the driver fails to give a receipt,
the passenger is legally entitled
not to pay the fare.
Starting fares normally range
from €2.25 to €4.50, with a rate
of about €0.50 per kilometre,
although prices can vary
considerably from operator to
operator. It is advisable to ask
the driver for an approximate
price before starting your The fascinatingly novel velotaxi, available for hire in Tallinn
382 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVELLING TO LATVIA
Most visitors arrive in Latvia by air, at Rīga international passenger flights. For those who
International Airport. Since independence wish to avoid air travel and who have more
there has been a rapid growth in the number time, there are sea routes from Germany and
of European cities directly linked to Rīga, Scandinavia, as well as comfortable trains and
mainly because of the arrival of low-cost coaches from other parts of the Continent.
carriers that raised the capital’s profile as a Arriving by car is also perfectly feasible,
destination for weekend breaks. In contrast, the provided the driver has the correct documents
country’s regional airports are little used for and is willing to tackle a variable road network.
Arriving by Air
The majority of visitors to Latvia
arrive at Rīga International
Airport, the largest airport in
the Baltic region by passenger
numbers. The airport is
connected to most Western
European cities as well as to
Prague, Moscow, Kiev, Tallinn,
Vilnius and Warsaw. Services
at the airport include a
currency exchange and ATMs,
which remain open until the
last flight arrives. Rīga International Airport
The country’s national
carrier, airBaltic, was estab- From Rīga Airport Other Latvian Airports
lished in 1995 and offers some to the City Centre The other international
very affordable flights. Rīga is Rīga Airport is located about airports are in Ventspils
also served by other major 8 km (5 miles) from the city and Liepāja. Neither is
airlines including LOT, SAS, centre. The cheapest way to much used by scheduled
Lufthansa and Finnair. Several reach the city is by taking a passenger services.
low-cost carriers, such as Wizz bus from outside the airport
Air and Ryanair, also fly to Rīga terminal. Bus 22 runs approxi-
from various European cities. mately every 10 to 20 minutes, Arriving by Sea
There are very few direct from 5:45am to midnight, and Passenger ferries take longer
flights to Latvia from the USA, takes 30 minutes to reach than air travel, though crossing
New Zealand, Canada or Abrenes iela (street); stops the Baltic Sea has its own
Australia. Visitors often transfer along the way include 11 appeal. Ferries operated by
at another European airport Novembra krastmala and Tallink connect Rīga to
such as Copenhagen or the Central Railway Station. Stockholm (Sweden). Stena
Helsinki. It may be more airBaltic operates the Airport Line connects Liepāja
economical to arrange a long- Express every 30 minutes, to Lübeck (Germany), and
haul flight to a transport hub from 5:30am to 12:30pm; it Ventspils to Nynashamn
such as London, along with a costs €5. Taxis reach the city (Sweden) and Lübeck. Rīga’s
separate onward flight. centre in 15 minutes. main Ferry Terminal can be
reached by trams 5, 7 or 9
from the bus station or
outside the National Opera.
There are marinas at Rīga,
Jūrmala, Liepāja, Pāvilosta,
Salacgrīva and Ventspils for
those with their own boats.
The Latvian Coast website
offers information.
Arriving by Coach
This is the best way to travel
between the three Baltic
Express bus waiting outside Rīga International Airport capitals. International carriers,
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 383
Ventspils Port
Tel 636 22586.
∑ portofventspils.lv
Coach Companies
Ecolines
∑ ecolines.ee
Lux Express
∑ luxexpress.eu
Nordeka
∑ nordeka.lv
Passenger train passing through the lush pine forests of the Latvian countryside
384 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Coach
Regular coach services run
between most large towns and
cities. Other places are less
frequently served, therefore
careful planning is important to One of the many extra-long public buses typical of Daugavpils
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 385
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Latvian Railways
Gogoļa iela 3, Rīga.
Typical car rental sign at the Domestic Airport, Rīga Tel 6723 1181.
∑ ldz.lv
Travelling by Car major roads, degvielas stacija
and Motorcycle (service stations) are often Travelling by Coach
Bringing or renting a vehicle open 24 hours, but in rural areas
is an excellent way to see it can be hard to find a place Autoosta
Latvia for those who come to refuel. Prāgas iela 1, Rīga.
for short trips, or wish to visit Parking is usually easy outside
Tel 9000 0009.
out-of-the-way corners of the Rīga, although some cities,
∑ autoosta.lv
country. However, neither notably Daugavpils and Liepāja,
car rental nor petrol is cheap, have parking meters in certain
and road conditions vary areas. There is also a fee of €2 Car Hire
dramatically. Most major routes to enter Jūrmala, collected at
are in an acceptable state, a roadside booth. Budget Rent A Car
but minor roads can be in Tel 6720 7327.
poor condition. Many are ∑ budget.lv
surfaced with gravel or dirt. Car Hire
In winter, gritting is not Vehicle hire is most easily
widespread, and some minor arranged in Rīga, although other Travelling by Bicycle
roads become impassable towns and cities have hire offices. Cycling is a good way to
without a sturdy four-wheel- Most international car rental get around the relatively flat
drive vehicle. companies are represented in terrain of Latvia. Bicycles can be
Latvians tend to drive the capital, and many of them hired in many towns and cities.
aggressively and overtaking have offices at the airport. The tourist information board
on blind corners is There are many smaller can provide details of cycle
common. Congestion companies as well. routes, such as the popular
is rare outside the Check the condition and easy trail from Rīga to
capital. The legal blood of the vehicle and the Jūrmala and routes in
alcohol limit is 0.05 per insurance cover provided. Gauja National Park and its
cent, with a 10-day Car hire services are surrounding valley. There are
prison sentence for Bumpy road sign operated by companies also two European Cycle Routes
exceeding it. Seat belt at Krāslava such as Budget Rent in Latvia, one of which, part of
use is mandatory in the A Car. Most companies the EuroVelo 10, runs along the
front seats, as well as in the rear stipulate a minimum age for entire coast.
if fitted, and crash helmets must the person hiring the car. Bicycles are permitted on
be used on motorcycles. It is Requirements state that the trains, although you need to
compulsory to drive with driver should have held a licence buy a ticket for them. There are
the headlights switched on for at least a year. The driver may designated areas at the end of
at all times. The speed limit is also need to leave his credit card each carriage, marked with a
50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up details or a large deposit. bicycle symbol.
areas and 90 kmph (56 mph)
elsewhere. Traffic police cannot
always be spotted outside
towns and cities, but they are
strict about speeding and collect
fines on the spot. Remember to
ask for a receipt if you are fined.
In the countryside, changes
in speed limit are not always
signposted and it is up to
the driver to notice signs
indicating built-up areas.
These are white rectangles
usually bearing the name of
the town or village.
Signposting is poor across
the country, making it essential
to buy a good roadmap. On Cyclists riding through a field of dandelions in Gauja National Park
386 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Parking
Parking can be difficult to find
in the city centre. It is also
Passengers boarding a bus at Rīga Bus Station expensive. Rates are €2 for the
first hour and €3 per hour on
Buses, Trolleybuses responsible for public transport, the streets of the Old Town. For
and Trams SIA Rīgas Satiksme. Until those who really need a car, it is
With several bus, trolleybus and 2009 different payment systems best to choose a hotel with
tram routes, Rīga’s public operated for buses, trams and parking space.
transport system is a cheap and trolleybuses but now they
efficient way of getting around have finally been integrated.
outside the Old Town. It brings There is a single fare of €1.20 Taxis
many museums, hostels and paid to the driver on boarding. Taxis are abundant in Rīga and
hotels within easy reach of the There is no extra charge for are a comfortable, though
town centre and also offers luggage. However, it is better to relatively expensive, way of
access to the zoo, the Song purchase your ticket first from a getting around. They do not
Festival grounds and to several kiosk for €0.60. The etalon smart come in a standard colour,
large parks. card covers five, ten or twenty although all official cabs have
There are timetables at the journeys at a discount. Public yellow licence plates. Fares
various bus stops, but usually transport is free to holders of a vary from €0.35 to €0.70 per
no route maps are shown; Rīga Card (see p366). kilometre depending on the
therefore it is advisable to carry
one when travelling. Public
transport on most routes runs
between 5:30am and 11:30pm,
with some services operating
hourly throughout the night.
Autoosta (see p385) is close to
both the Central Railway
Station and Central Market.
Other transport hubs include
the stretch in front of the
Orthodox Cathedral.
Various organizations merged
in 2005 to form a single body Taxis for hire outside Rīga International Airport
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 387
TRAVELLING TO LITHUANIA
The quickest and easiest way to reach regular departures from London, Paris
Lithuania is by air. Most airlines fly to Vilnius, and other European capitals. However,
which has direct connections with many getting to Lithuania by car is long and
European cities. Some international flights hazardous, given the bad roads in Poland.
arrive at Kaunas and Palanga airports. A daily train service links Warsaw with
Lithuania has only one sea port, at Klaipėda, Kaunas and Vilnius, with a change at
which offers a limited number of passenger Sestokai, on the Polish-Lithuanian frontier.
ferry services across the Baltic Sea to Lithuania is not covered by Eurail or
Germany and Scandinavia. By land, it is best InterRail, making travelling by train from
to travel to Lithuania by coach. There are Western Europe expensive.
Arriving by Air
Lithuania is well connected
with Europe and, via major
European transport hubs such
as London, Copenhagen and
Amsterdam, to the rest of the
world. Connectivity has
improved, with flights to and
from Vilnius timing in well with
intercontinental flights. Since
March 2008, the control of
internal borders among the
Schengen states, which also
include Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania, was abolished.
Opened in 1944, Vilnius
Airport is the arrival point for
most flights. It is the only
airport among the Baltic International check-in hall at Vilnius Airport
capitals to have maintained its
original appearance of a Airlines, Norwegian, Nordica, as the majority of tickets are
formulaic, erstwhile Soviet-era Finnair, Lufthansa, Ryanair purchased on the Internet. In
terminal. Services at the airport and SAS. accordance with international
include car rental offices, From the United States, the agreements, most airline
currency exchange and cafés, most common routes to services operate a system of
as well as newspaper kiosks Lithuania are via Warsaw, then reduced rates for children,
which also sell bus tickets. on to Vilnius with LOT; students and pensioners, as
airBaltic offers increased Stockholm or Copenhagen, well as pre-arranged groups.
services between Rīga and then on to Vilnius with SAS;
Vilnius, and direct services from or Helsinki, then on to Vilnius
Vilnius to several European with Finnair. Norwegian airlines From Vilnius Airport to
cities, including Amsterdam, fly via Oslo. the City Centre
Copenhagen, Dublin and Canadian visitors tend to Vilnius Airport is located 5 km
London. British Airways pulled fly via Frankfurt and Brussels (3 miles) south of the city
out of serving Vilnius due to with Lufthansa. centre. There is a train from the
low-cost airline competition. Travelling from Australia airport to Vilnius Main Station,
As a result, major international or New Zealand also requires which takes about 7 minutes,
flights and low-cost carriers multiple carriers, and it is although buses also operate.
from around 40 cities arrive in worth shopping around for Tickets are cheaper if bought
Lithuanian airports. These the best prices. at airport kiosks.
include almost all the capitals airBaltic has implemented a The bus stop and taxi rank
of Western Europe, as well as one-way ticket system, which are both outside the arrivals
Prague, Moscow, Minsk, Gomel, ensures the prices of tickets area. The official rate for taxis
Kiev, St Petersburg, Tbilisi, depend directly on demand. into town is about €8, but
Kaliningrad, Baku, Tel Aviv and The traditional “Sunday rule”, tourists will find it difficult to
other cities further east. Other with prices being higher on pay less than €15. Taxis take
European carriers that serve weekdays than on the about 20 minutes to reach
Vilnius include Austrian weekends, does not hold true, the city centre.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 389
Other Lithuanian
Airports
The airports at Kaunas and
Palanga have scheduled inter-
national flights, although they
are fairly limited compared to
those at Vilnius Airport. New
terminals are being built at both
the airports in an effort to make
them better equipped. From
Kaunas Airport, shuttle bus
number 120 goes to Savanorių
prospektas (avenue) and the
Old Town, while bus number International cargo and passenger carrier sailing out of Klaipėda
29 goes to the bus station. A
Arriving by Sea
minibus shuttle travels twice DIRECTORY
daily between Kaunas Airport Lithuania’s only commercial
and Vilnius, connecting all maritime harbour, Klaipėda Airlines
Ryanair flights, as that is the only State Sea Port, is linked by airBaltic
carrier operating in Kaunas at ferry to ports in Germany, ∑ airbaltic.com
the moment. For information Sweden and Denmark. There
on airport bus services, log on are connections between Austrian Airlines
to Ollex. There are hourly buses Klaipėda and Kiel and Mukran ∑ austrian.lt
from Palanga Airport to in Germany, Copenhagen- Finnair
Palanga and many buses Fredericia, Aabenraa-Aarhus ∑ finnair.com
operate between Palanga in Denmark and Karlshamn
LOT
and Klaipėda. airBaltic offers in Sweden.
∑ lot.com
its passengers free minibus
services from Palanga Airport to Lufthansa
Klaipėda. Buses head north from Arriving by Coach ∑ lufthansa.com
the airport to Liepāja in Latvia. Lithuania has an extensive Nordica
network of roads connecting ∑ nordica.ee
the country to neighbouring
Arriving by Car states. It is fairly simple to reach Norwegian
∑ norwegian.com
As Lithuania is part of the Lithuania by bus or coach from
Schengen zone, there are no Estonia or Latvia as there are Ryanair
restrictions on entering it from numerous crossing points. ∑ ryanair.com
Schengen countries. Drivers There are express passenger SAS
entering the country by car do coaches from Vilnius to Rīga ∑ flysas.com
not need an international and Tallinn, as well as other
driver’s licence, but it is essential cities including Warsaw, Berlin, Airports
that they carry the vehicle’s Prague, Vienna, Kaliningrad and
registration documents, Moscow. On the other hand, Kaunas Airport
insurance papers, a passport the journey from countries such Karmėlava.
and a licence from their country. as Germany or the UK is very Tel (37) 399 396.
∑ kaunas-airport.lt
All cars must carry a first-aid kit long and the inconvenience is
and fire extinguisher. best avoided. Palanga Airport
Liepojos pl 1.
Tel (460) 52 020.
∑ palanga-airport.lt
Vilnius Airport
Rodūnios kelias 10a.
Tel 273 9305.
∑ vilnius-airport.lt
Ferry Information
Klaipėda State Sea Port
∑ portofklaipeda.lt
Airport terminal building, Palanga Airport in Western Lithuania
390 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Bus
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.lt
Toks
∑ toks.lt
Driving in Vilnius
Traffic density has increased
rapidly in Vilnius in recent years,
resulting in congestion during A busy road in Vilnius during peak traffic hour
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 393
Car Hire
A convenient alternative for
getting around the city and
taking day-trips to nearby
Martono Taksi, an expensive but reliable option attractions such as Trakai is to
hire a car. International car
and Ekipažas are generally shopping, festivals and parades, rental companies, such as
reliable. All taxis must have a besides being an attraction in Europcar, Avis and Hertz, and
working meter, so check the itself. Stretching from Cathedral local companies such as Aunela,
initial reading as you get in. Square in the east to Žvėrynas offer insured vehicles.
in the west, it becomes
Cycling
pedestrianized in the DIRECTORY
evenings. The lush districts of
Conditions for cyclists vary Žvėrynas and Užupis are on Buses and Trolleybuses
considerably around the city. either sides of the Old Town. Vilnius Transport
Bicycle routes are clearly The former leads to the Sodų 22. Tel 216 0054.
marked on many of the pave- splendid views of the Neris ∑ vilniustransport.lt
ments in the Old Town, along river and Vingis Park, reachable
roads such as Gedimino and by a pedestrian bridge. A walk Taxis
Konstitucijos avenues and into to Užupis may culminate in a
districts such as Žvėrynas and peaceful wander around Ekipažas
Šv Stepono 33a. Tel 233 7958.
Vingis Park. EuroVelo route 11 is Bernadinų Cemetery, or you
∑ ekipazastaksi.lt
an Eastern European cycle route could continue on as far as
that runs through the eastern Belmontas and the Church of Romerta
Baltic region, taking in Vilnius Sts Peter and Paul. Garsioji 9. Tel 275 6969.
and Tartu. It has now been ∑ romerta.lt
extended to Vilnius from the
southwest to the northeast, Cycling
towards Verkiai. However, Baltic Cycle
cycling along roads that do Vytenio 6–110. Tel 6995 6009.
not have bicycle lanes is not ∑ bicycle.lt
recommended. Bicycles can
be rented at Baltic Cycle. Sightseeing Tours
Ballooning Centre
Walking Upės 5. Tel 6520 0510.
∑ ballooning.lt
Each sight is just a few steps
from the next one, allowing Senamiesčio Gidas
visitors to experience the Old Aušros vartų 7. Tel 6995 4064.
Town’s magnificent architecture ∑ vilniuscitytour.com
from close quarters. There are Visit Lithuania
many pedestrianized streets L Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1.
and, despite the occasional Visitors walking down Pilies Street towards Tel 262 5241.
reckless driver, traffic is rarely Upper Castle, Old Town ∑ visitlithuania.net
a hindrance. West Express
Crossing roads in Vilnius can Sightseeing Tours
A Stulginskio 5. Tel 255 3255.
sometimes be hazardous. At Tour guides in Vilnius are ∑ westexpress.lt
many crossings a “red man” and professional and speak fluent
“green man” guide pedestrians English. A typical sightseeing Car Hire
on when to cross. However, at tour arranged by Senamiesčio
road junctions, there are traffic Gidas includes a trip to the Old Avis
∑ avis.com
lights just for cars. When at a Town, Užupis and the Church of
pedestrian crossing without Sts Peter and Paul. Customized Europcar
lights, cars must give way to tours can also be arranged. ∑ europcar.com
pedestrians, but they do not Travel agencies such as Visit Hertz
always do so. Gedimino Avenue Lithuania also arrange guided ∑ hertz.com
is the city’s main street for tours as well as accommodation
394 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Anykščiai Northern Railway Museum Basanavičius, Dr Jonas 218, 248
main entries. 269 Basilian Gate (Vilnius) 237, 238
Apartments 293, 295 Basilian Monastery (Vilnius) 235, 237
A Apparition of the Holy Mother of God Basketball 360
Abava river 182 Church (Vilnius) 245 Bastejkalns (Rīga) 154
Academy of Sciences (Rīga) 158 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 231 Bathory, Stefan 153, 215, 217, 279
Accommodation 292–307 Aqua Park (Ventspils) 181 Battle of Grünwald (Matejko) 34, 216–17
Estonia 296–9 Āraiši Lake Fortress 193 Battle of Poltava (Lomonosov) 37
Latvia 300–303 Architecture 20–21 Bauļins, Leonīds 200
Lithuania 304–7 Art Nouveau in Rīga 156–7 Baumanis, Kārlis 195
see also Apartments; Camp sites; Baroque Vilnius 237 Bauska 169, 170–71
Guesthouses; Hostels; Hotels; Private Medieval 65 hotels 301
homes Museum of Estonian Architecture Bauska Alus brewery 171
Adamson, Amandus 82 (Tallinn) 77 Bears, brown 23
Adamson-Eric 70 Arctic lichen 23 Beer 312–13
Adamson-Eric Museum (Tallinn) 75 Arsenal Museum of Art (Rīga) 148 Brewery tours 360, 361
Admission charges 366 Art Days and Museum Nights (Latvia) Bees 22, 270, 271
Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85 136 Beekeeping 271
Aglona 15, 131, 171, 187, 199 Art Museum Rīga Bourse 147 Beekeeping Museum (Aukštaitija
hotels 302 Art Nouveau 20, 21 National Park) 270, 271
restaurants 324 Art Nouveau Museum (Rīga) 156 Beethoven, Ludwig van 182
Aglona Basilica 199 Rīga 143, 156–7 Beit Bella Synagogue (Tallinn) 41
Ahja river 126 Art shops Beit midrash (Kalvarija) 261
Ainaži 194 Latvia 337 Belfry (Vilnius Cathedral) 230
Air travel Rīga 338–9 Berg, Count Friedrich von 124
Estonia 376, 377, 379 Tallinn 334 Berlitz, J G 170
Latvia 382, 2833 Vilnius 343 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Lithuania 388–9 Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Berry-picking 359, 361
Airport transfers Artists’ Hill (Sigulda) 192 Bērze river 171
Rīga 382 Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Beržoras 282
Tallinn 376 Arts, visual 26 Bicycle Museum (Saulkrasti) 196
Vilnius 388 Aspazija see Rozenberga, Elza Bicycle Museum (Šiauliai) 276
Aken, Hans von 67 Aspazija House (Jūrmala) 174 Biķernieki Forest 161
Akste Anthills 126 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Birds 22–3
Albert II Radvila 216 (Liepāja) 137 bird-watching 356–7, 361
Alberta iela (Rīga) 21, 157 Astronomical Observatory (Molėtai) 269 Nemunas Delta 287
Alekna, Virgilijus 27, 211 Ates Mill Museum (Umernieki) 203 Ornithological Centre (Lake Engure)
Alekšupīte river 183 ATMs 370 176
Alexander I, Tsar 38, 81, 226 Augustus II of Poland 268 see also Wildlife
Alexander II, Tsar 232 Aukštaitija/Aukštaitijans 35, 214, 253 Birgitta Festival (Tallinn) 53
Alexander III, Tsar 74, 141 Aukštaitija National Park 11, 17, 212, Birkerts, Gunnar 159
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) 255, 270–71 Biron, Duke Ernst Johann 170, 172, 173
12, 24, 58, 72, 74 hotels 305 Birštonas 261
Algirdas, Grand Duke 227, 231, 232, restaurants 328 hotels 305
238 Aušra 218, 248 restaurants 328
Alternative Art Centre (Užupis) 244 Aušra Avenue Palace (Šiauliai) 276 Birštonas Jazz 261
Altja 13, 111, 113 Aušra Museum (Šiauliai) 276 Birutuės Hill (Palanga) 286
Alūksne 203 Aviation Museum (Rīga) 160 Biržai 268
Alunāns, Juris 195 restaurants 328
Alytupis river 260 B Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 92
Alytus 253, 260–61 Babrungėnai 282 Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98
hotels 305 Bach, J S 184 Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12
restaurants 328 Baer, Karl Ernst von 119 Black Knight 197
Amber 30–31 statue (Tartu) 119, 121 Black Nights Film Festival (Tallinn) 53
Amber Museum (Palanga) 31, 286 Ballet Blackheads see Brotherhood of
The Amber Route 31 Estonia 344, 345 Blackheads
amber-catchers 30 Rīga 350, 351 Blacksmiths’ Museum (Klaipėda) 284
in folklore 31 Tallinn 346, 347 Blaumanis, Rūdolfs 27
formation of 30 Vilnius 354, 355 Blue Hills (Zilie kalni) 177
shops in Latvia 337, 339 Ballivi, Johann 71 Blūmentāls, Arvīds 176
shops in Lithuania 340–41, 342 Balloon flights (Vilnius) 393 Bobsleigh Run (Sigulda) 190
Ambulances 369 Baltic Beach (Curonian Spit) 288 Bogdanas, Konstantinas 242
Amenda, Karl 182 Baltic crusade 35 Bonaparte, Napoleon see Napoleon I,
Ammende Villa (Pärnu) 103 Baltic Klint 23 Emperor
André, Edouard 286 Baltic psaltery 29 Book shops
Angel Bridge (Tartu) 120 Baltic tribes/Balts 35, 39, 253 Tallinn 335
Angla Windmills (Saaremaa) 12, 48, 97, Baltic Way 43, 230 Vilnius 343
98–9 Baltica festival 28–9 Botanical Gardens (Rīga) 159
Animism 24 Balzukevičius, Juozas 227 Brazauskas, Algirdas 219
Anna, Empress of Russia 173 Banking 370–71 Brewery tours 360, 361
Ännchen of Tharau (Klaipėda) 284 Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Brezhnev, Leonid 162
Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Barons, Krišjānis 155, 192, 195 Brigadere, Anna 171
Antiques Krišjānis Barons Memorial Museum Anna Brigadere Museum (Tērvete)
Latvia 337 (Rīga) 154–5 171
Rīga 338–9 Baroque architecture 20 Brīvzemnieks, Fricis 195
Tallinn 334–5 Baroque Vilnius 237 Brotherhood of Blackheads
Vilnius 343 Baroque Music Festival (Tallinn) 53 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 143, 150,
Anykščiai 269 Bars and pubs 308 152
hotels 305 Latvia 349, 351 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70
restaurants 328 Baryshnikov, Mikhail 27 Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 68, 69
GENERAL INDEX 395
Brotherhood of the Sword 36, 54, 192, Castles and fortifications (cont.) Čepkeliai Reserve 260
195 Tallinn city walls 65, 66 Cēsis 14, 138, 187, 191, 192–3
Brothers Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Tallinn Gate (Pärnu) 102 festivals 136
Bunka, Jacob 281 Taurapilis (Aukštaitija National Park) Chagin, Nikolai 227, 232
Burbiškis Manor 278 270 Chaim Frenkel Villa (Šiauliai) 276
Bureaux de change 370 Toompea Castle (Tallinn) 12, 54, 72, 74 Chapels
Buses Trakai Island Castle 11, 16, 207, 253, Chapel of the Holy Queens (Sts Peter
Estonia 378 256–7, 266–7 and Paul, Vilnius) 246
Rīga 386, 387 Turaīda Castle 186, 190, 192 Chapel of the Holy Stairs (Friary of the
Tallinn 380, 381 Uldevena Castle (Lielvārde) 197 Blessed Virgin Mary, Tytuvėnai) 278
Vilnius 392, 393 Upper Castle (Vilnius) 16, 224, 230 Chapel of St Ursula (Sts Peter and
Business hours 365 Vao Stronghold Tower Museum Paul, Vilnius) 247
Buxhoevden, Bishop Albert von 138, (Väike-Maarja) 117 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 235,
143, 146 Vastseliina Castle 125 239
Veliuona fort-hill 279 Rainiai Chapel of Suffering 280
C Ventspils Castle 14, 15, 180 St Casimir’s Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
Čakste, Janis 161 Vytautas Castle Hill (Birštonas) 261 207, 224, 229, 237, 238, 247
Calvary Church of the Holy Cross Cat Museum (Šiauliai) 277 Valevičius Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
(Vilnius) 249 Cathedral Hill (Tartu) see Toomemägi 228
Camp sites 294, 295 Cathedral Square (Rīga) 143 Charles XI of Sweden 37
Canoeing 359 Cathedral Square (Vilnius) 230 Charles XII of Sweden 37, 55
Cape Kolka 177 Cathedrals Children
hotels 301 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) in hotels 295
restaurants 322 12, 24, 58, 72, 74 in restaurants 309
Capital Days (Vilnius) 213 Cathedral of Christ the King travelling with 367
Car hire (Panevėžys) 268 Choral Synagogue (Vilnius) 243
Estonia 379 Cathedral ruins (Tartu) 121 Choral Synagogue Ruins (Rīga) 40, 158
Latvia 385 Cathedral of St Anthony of Padua Christianity
Lithuania 391 (Telšiai) 280 in Estonia 50, 54
Vilnius 393 Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin introduction of 36
Casimir, St 229 (Tallinn) 73, 74–5 in Latvia 134
Casinos (Rīga) 351 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe in Lithuania 210, 214, 217, 273
Castello, Matteo 247 (Daugavpils) 15, 200 Christmas 137, 213
Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christmas, Battle of 139
Castle of Light (Rīga) 159 (Kaunas) 16, 263 Christmas Jazz Festival (Estonia) 53
Castles and fortifications Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christopher Summer Festival (Vilnius)
Āraiši Lake Fortress (Gauja National (Šiauliai) 276–7 212
Park) 191, 193 Dome Cathedral (Haapsalu) 12, 92 Christopher’s Guitars (Vilnius) 213
Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 14, 138, 146 Church Heritage Museum (Vilnius) 233
Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Dormition Cathedral (Kuremäe) 116 Churches
Bauska Castle 169, 170–71 Orthodox Cathedral (Rīga) 24, 155 opening hours 366
Biržai Castle 268 Orthodox Cathedral of St Simeon Aglona Basilica 15, 199
Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 12, 91, 92 and St Anna (Jelgava) 15, 170 Apparition of the Holy Mother of God
Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98 St Jacob’s Cathedral (Rīga) 147 Church (Vilnius) 245
Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12 St Joseph’s Cathedral (Liepāja) 185 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Castle Museum (Haapsalu) 92 St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral Calvary Church of the Holy Cross
Castle Museum (Klaipėda) 284 (Karosta) 2–3, 185 (Vilnius) 249
Cēsis Castle Complex 193 Vilnius Cathedral 16, 207, 224, 228–9 Church of the Annunciation
Daugavpils Fortress 15, 201 Catherine I, Empress of Russia 80, 81, 83 (Kretinga) 286
Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Catherine II (the Great), Empress of Church of the Apparition of the
Ivangorod Castle 108 Russia 38, 170, 173, 279 Blessed Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 279
Jaunpils Castle 15, 174 Catholicism 24, 25 Church of the Ascension (Raseiniai)
Kaunas Castle 16, 262 Cats’ House (Rīga) 149 279
Kernavė medieval ramparts and Caves Church of the Birth of the Mother of
fortifications 258 Devil’s Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 God (Daugavpils) 200
Kiek-in-de-Kök (Tallinn) 65, 72, 75 Gutmana Cave 191 Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Krāslava Castle 198 Liv Sacrificial Caves (near Salacgrīva) (Kalvarija) 261
Krustpils Castle (Jēkabpils) 198 194 Church of the Friary of the Blessed
Kuressaare Castle 20 Maiden’s Cave (Taevaskoja) 126 Virgin Mary (Tytuvėnai) 278
Lihula Castle 95 Mara’s Cave (near Sabile) 182 Church of the Holy Cross (Šedura)
Liškiava Castle 260 Peter’s Cave (Sigulda) 192 278
Livonian Order Castle (Dobele) 171 Riežupe Sand Caves (near Kuldīga) Church of the Holy Spirit (Vilnius) 25,
Livonian Order Castle (Dundaga) 176 183 237, 238
Livonian Order Castle (Koknese) 197 Werewolf Pine Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 Church of the Holy Trinity (Kaunas)
Lower Castle (Vilnius) 224, 230 Cemeteries 262
Narva Castle 47, 116, 117 Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Church of the Holy Trinity (Vilnius)
New Castle (Sigulda) 190, 192 Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161 238
Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264 Karaim Cemetery (Trakai) 257 Church of Jesus (Rīga) 158
Nunna, Sauna and Kuldjala towers Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170 Church of the Nativity of the Blessed
(Tallinn) 65 Rainis Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 278–9
Paide Castle Tower 117 Rasos Cemetery (Vilnius) 248 Church of the Resurrection (Kaunas)
Palace Tower (Tukums) 175 Rīga cemeteries 161 264
Panemunė Castle 279 Vācu Karavīru Kapi (near Saldus) 183 Church of St Anne (Vilnius) 20, 225,
Põltsamaa Castle 117 Woodlands Cemetery (Rīga) 161 232–3
Powder Tower (Rīga) 149 Central Lithuania 252–71 Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 16, 234,
Punia hill fort 261 hotels 305–6 236
Rakvere Castle 116 map 254–5 Church of St Catherine (Vilnius) 237,
Raudonė 279 restaurants 328–30 241
Rīga Castle 147 travel 255 Church of St George (Kaunas) 262
St Jacob’s Barracks (Rīga) 148 Central Market (Rīga) 159 Church of St John (Vilnius) 237
396 GENERAL INDEX
Dutch Windmill (Latvian Ethnographic Estonian Maritime Museum (Tallinn) 71 Forest Brothers 43, 82, 117, 122, 242
Open-Air Museum) 163 Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Forests 22
Dzintari Beach (Jūrmala) 175 Design (Tallinn) 70 Biķernieki Forest 161
Dzintari Concert Hall (Jūrmala) 175 Estonian Music Days 52 forest trails (Curonian Spit National
Džiugas 280 Estonian National Library (Tallinn) 75 Park) 289
Dzūkija 253, 260, 341 Estonian National Museum (Tartu) 119 Forestry Museum (Lahemaa National
Dzūkija National Park 258–9, 260 Estonian National Opera (Tallinn) 76–7 Park) 111
Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn) Forestry Museum (Sagadi Manor) 113
E 10, 12, 85 Karšuva Forest 280
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Estonian Railway Museum (Haapsalu) Oandu Forest Nature Trail (Lahemaa
hotels 298–9 12, 92 National Park) 111, 113
map 108–9 Estonian Song and Dance Festival 39, Pokaiņi Forest 171
restaurants 318–19 50, 55, 82, 107 Rumbula Forest 162
travel 109 Estonian Youth Theatre 27 Tērvete Nature Park 171
Eastern Latvia 186–203 Ethnic mix Franciscan Church (Vilnius) 240
hotels 302–3 Estonia 49–50 Frank Zappa Statue (Vilnius) 242
map 188–9 Latvia 133–4 Freedom Monument (Rīga) 140, 142,
restaurants 324–5 Lithuania 210 154
travel 189 Ethnocosmology Centre (Molėtai) 269 Friary of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Economy The Euro 43, 51, 57, 141, 371 (Tytuvėnai) 278
Estonia 51 Europa Tower (Vilnius) 21 Fruit 311
Latvia 135 Europe Park 253, 258
Lithuania 211 European Union (EU) 43 G
Eisenstein, Mikhail 11, 156, 157 Estonia 49, 51, 57 Gaigalaitė, Nijolė Ona, Jūratė kaj Kastytis
Eisenstein, Sergei 26 Latvia 135, 141 31
Ekesparre Boutique Hotel (Kuressaare) Lithuania 209, 210, 219 Gaiglava 202
88, 298 Evangelical Lutheran Church (Šilutė) 287 Galgaudas family 279, 280
Electrical appliances 367 Galli, Giovanni Maria 247
Elelson, Zalman 155 F Game 310
Elizabetes iela (Rīga) 156–7 Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Gandinga Hill 281
Elizabeth, Empress of Russia 83, 102 Father and Son Statue (Õun) (Tartu) Ganelin Trio 27
Elizabeth II of Great Britain 71 119 Gaon of Vilna 40
Elizabeth’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Fauna see Wildlife Gardie, Pontus de la 74
Elks 23 Feast of the Assumption 131 Garso Galerija (Vilnius) 212
Eller, Heino 66 Feldbergs, Ojars 182 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 239
Embassies 365 Ferry travel street-by-street map 234–5
Emergencies 369 Estonia 376, 377, 378, 379 Gauja National Park 131, 133, 186,
Emumägi Hill (Endla Nature Reserve) Latvia 283, 382 190–93
117 Lithuania 389 hotels 302–3
Encephalitis, tick-borne 369 Tallinn–Helsinki ferry 56, 59 itineraries 11, 14
Endla Nature Reserve 117 Festival of Female Choirs and Men’s restaurants 324
Energy Centre (Tallinn) 77 Choruses (Tukums) 175 Gauja river 190, 194
Engels, Friedrich 259 Festivals Gauja Valley 190–93
Engure see Lake Engure Estonia 52–3 Gaveikėnai Waternill (Aukštaitija
Entertainment Latvia 136–7 National Park) 271
booking and prices 344, 348, 352 Lithuania 212–13 Gavelis, Ričardas 26
Estonia 344–7 Film see Cinema Gebhardt, Eduard von 80
information sources 344, 346, 348, Finno-Ugrians 35 Gediminas, Grand Duke 214, 216, 221,
350, 352, 354 Fire Sculptures Festival (Lithuania) 213 230
Latvia 348–51 Fire services 369 death 279
Lithuania 352–5 Fire Tower (Võsu) 112 Fire Sculptures Festival 213
Rīga 350–51 Fire-fighters’ Museum (Ainaži) 194 and the Jews 40
Tallinn 346–7 FIS Nordic World Championships 123 Gelgaudas, Antanas 279
Vilnius 354–5 Fish 310 Gelgaudas Manor (Gelgaudiškis) 280
see also Cinema; Dance; Music; Sport; Fisherman’s Daughters (Šventoji) 286 Gelgaudiškis 280
Theatre Fishing 358, 361 German community
Epiphany 213 Flag, Latvian 193 in Latvia 37, 139
Erratic boulders 22, 114 Flag Museum (Otepää) 122 under Russian rule 38
Estonia 48–127 Flora 23 German crusaders see Teutonic Knights
14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13 Lahemaa National Park 110 Gielgud, Sir John 280
climate 32–3 Soomaa National Park 105 Giotto, Daniele 232
communications 373 Fluxus 236 Girėnas, Stasys 264
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Folk festivals (Estonia) 345 Glasnost 43
economy 51 Folk legends (Lake Plateliai) 283 Glasremis (Panevėžys) 268
entertainment 344–7 Folk Music Museum (Kaunas) 263 Glass Museum (Līvāni) 198
festivals 52–3 Folk Song Park (Turaida Museum Glaubitz, Jan Krzysztof 226, 233, 237,
getting around 378–9 Reserve) 192 238, 241
history 54–7, 89, 107 Folk songs and music 28–9 Glück, Ernst 25
hotels 296–9 Lithuania 353 Ernst Glück Museum of the Bible
outdoor activities and specialist Vilnius 354, 355 (Alūksne) 203
holidays 356–61 Folklore, amber in 31 Godeliai 282
phrase book 411–12 Folklore Baltica Festival 52, 136 Gods and goddesses, Pagan 24
restaurants 314–19 Food and drink Godunov, Alexander 27
shopping 332–5 Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Golf 360, 361
society and culture 49–50 Lithuania 310–11 Gomanovics, Vladimirs 154
Tallinn 58–87 shops in Latvia 337 Gorbachev, Mikhail 43, 57, 141, 219
tourism 51 shops in Lithuania 341 Gothic architecture 20
travelling to 376–7 shops in Rīga 339 Graff, Johann Michael 173
Western Estonia 88–105 shops in Tallinn 335 Grand Duchy of Lithuania 36, 214,
Estonian Art Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80 What to drink 312–13 216–17
Estonian Drama Theatre (Tallinn) 76 see also Bars and pubs; Beer; absorbed into Russian Empire 218
Estonian History Museum (Tallinn) 20, Restaurants; Wine Battle of Grünwald 256
64, 82 Football 360 introduction of Christianity 24
398 GENERAL INDEX
Grand Duchy of Lithuania (cont.) Hippocrates 30 International Baltic Ballet Festival (Rīga)
and the Jews 40 Hirte, Valters 195 136
Kernavė 207 Historical Museum (Kriaunos) 268, 269 International Choir Festival (Tallinn) 52
Liškiava 260 Historicist architecture 21 International Festival of Modern Dance
Samogitia 273, 279 History (Kaunas) 213
Great Egg Hill see Suur Munamägi Estonia 54–7 International Folk Music Festival
Great Guild (Rīga) 149 Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania 34–43 (Koknese) 197
Great Guild Hall (Tallinn) 64 Jewish History 40–41 International Ice Sculpture Festival
Great Northern War 37, 139, 192, 197, Latvia 138–41 (Jelgava) 137
268 Lithuania 214–19 Internet 372–5
Peter the Great 83 History and Applied Arts Museum Islam 24
Great Synagogue (Vilnius) 237, 242, 243 (Preiļi) 199 Islands
Green Bridge (Vilnius) 245 History and Art Museum (Jelgava) Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85
Grieving Mother 161 170 Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281
Grünwald, Battle of 36, 209, 214, 256, History Museum (Trakai) 257 Hiiumaa Island 89, 94–5
262 History Museum of Latvia (Rīga) 147 Kihnu Island 105
Grūtas Park 259 Hitler, Adolf 219, 284 Mohni Island 113
Grybas, Vincas, Independence Statue Holocaust Memorial (Biķernieki Forest) Muhu Island 89, 95
279 161 Piirissaar Island (Lake Peipsi) 127
Grybauskaitė, Dalia 211 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 16, 242 Saaremaa Island 89, 96–9
Guardian Angels’ Church (Alytus) 260 Holy Mother of God Church (Vilnius) Vilsandi Island 89, 99
Guesthouses 293, 295 232 Vormsi Island 89, 92, 93
Gulbene, restaurants 324 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 62, 64 Itineraries 10–17
Gulbene-Alūksne Narrow-Gauge Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 15, 184 14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13
Railway 203 Holy Trinity Church (Liškiava) 260 14 Days in Latvia 11, 14–15
Gulf of Finland 110 Horse Museum (Niūronys) 269 14 Days in Lithuania 11, 16–17
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden 102, 118, Horse-riding 358, 361 Ivan the Terrible 37, 84, 192
138, 139, 160 Hospitals 369 Ivanauskaitė, Jurga 26, 211
Gutmana Cave 191 Hostels 293, 295 Ivangorod Castle 108
Hotels 292–307
H booking 292 J
Haanja 125 Central Lithuania 305–6 Jadwiga of Poland 214
Haapsalu 12, 89, 92–3 children in 294 Jakobson, Carl Robert 122
festivals 52 disabled travellers 295 Jāņa Sēta (Rīga) 151
hotels 297 Eastern Estonia 298–9 Jannsen, Johann Valdemār 103
restaurants 316 Eastern Latvia 302–3 Janskola Museum (Vecpiebalga) 203
Tchaikovsky in 93 Estonia 296–9 Järvamaa Museum (Paide) 117
Haapsalu Early Music Festival 52 hidden extras 294 Jasinskis, Jokūbas 215
Handicrafts Latvia 300–303 Jaunmoku Pils (Tukums) 175
Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Lithuania 304–7 Jaunpils Castle 15, 174
Estonia 333 luxury 292 hotels 301
Handicrafts Centre (Ludza) 203 modern 292 Jaunzeme, Inese 140
House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 prices and payment 292 Jazz and blues
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (Vilnius) 212, 236 Rīga 300–301 Latvia 349
Latgale Art and Craft Centre (Līvāni) smoking in 294–5 Lithuania 353
198 Tallinn 296–7 Rīga 350, 351
Latvia 337 tipping 292 Tallinn 346, 347
Lithuania 341 Vilnius 304–5 Vilnius 354, 355
Lithuanian cross-crafting tradition Western Estonia 297–8 Jazzkaar (Estonia) 52
284 Western Latvia 301–2 Jeckeln, Friedrich 148
Rīga 338 Western Lithuania 306–7 Jēkabpils 15, 198
Tallinn 334 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 152 restaurants 324–5
Vilnius 342–3 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70 Jelgava 15, 167, 170
Hannibal, Major-General Abram House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 festivals 137
Petrovich 227 House of Signatories (Vilnius) 227 hotels 301
Hanseatic League 36 Hullo 92, 93 restaurants 322
Cēsis 192 Hüpassaare Hiking Trail (Soomaa Jelgava Palace 15, 170, 178–9
Estonia 54 National Park) 105 Jewellery
Kaunas 263 Hurt, Jakob 119 amber 31
Köpu Lighthouse 94 shops in Rīga 338
Latvia 138 I shops in Vilnius 342–3
Limbaži 195 Ice hockey 360 Jews 24
Rīga 143 Ig Nobel Peace Prize 259 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 242
Tallinn 59 Ignalina 17, 271 Jewish history 40–41
Valmiera 194 Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant 211, Jewish Vilnius 243
Ventspils 180 269 Kalvarija 261
Harilaid Peninsula 99 Ikšķile 196 Karaim of Trakai 257
Health care 369 hotels 303 Latvia 133, 138, 141, 155, 161, 162
Hendrik, Toomas 57 restaurants 324 Lithuania 209, 219, 221
Henry IV of England 258 Iļģi 29 Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 155
Henry of Livonia 195 Imsrė river 280 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius)
Herb Day (Latvia) 136 Independence 42, 43 41, 248–9
Hiiumaa Island 10, 12, 89, 94–5 Estonia 55, 57 Plungė 281
hotels 297 Latvia 139–40, 141, 146, 154 spread from Lithuania 38
restaurants 316 Lithuania 218–19, 227, 245 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
Hiiumaa Museum (Kärdla) 94 Independence Statue (Grybas) Vidzgiris Forest 260
Hiiumaa Museum (Kassari) 95 (Raseiniai) 279 Jogaila, Grand Duke 24, 36, 214, 249
Hiking and trekking 357, 361 Indo-Europeans 35 Jõgeveste 122
Hill of Crosses (Jurgaičių village) 17, Ingatsi Bog Trail (Soomaa National John Paul II, Pope 199, 239, 277, 279
277 Park) 104 Jomas Street (Jūrmala) 174
Hill of Crosses (Kärdla) 94 Innocent III, Pope 25, 35 Joninės (St John’s Day) 212
Hill of Three Crosses (Vilnius) 231 Innocent VI, Pope 125 Jōnn, Kihnu 105
Hill of Witches (Curonian Spit) 17, 289 Intas, Dr Vaclovas 281 Jucevičius, Liudvikas Adomas 31
GENERAL INDEX 399
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) National Awakening Movement
Latvian Road Museum (Milzkalne) 175 Picture Gallery and Sculpture Park (Latvia) 139, 195
Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149 (Klaipėda) 17, 285 National Library (Tallinn) 21
Liepāja Museum 185 Põltsamaa Museum 117 National Library of Latvia (Rīga) 159
Lihula Museum 95 Porcelain Museum (Rīga) 153 National parks
Līthuania Minor History Museum Pushkin Museum (Vilnius) 248 Aukštaitija National Park 11, 17, 212,
(Klaipėda) 284 Railway Museum (Rīga) 159 255, 270–71
Lithuanian National Museum (Vilnius) Rīga Castle 147 Curonian Spit National Park 11, 17,
16, 230–31 Rīga Ghetto Museum 158 273, 288–9
Local History Museum (Pāvilosta) 183 Rokiškis Museum 268, 269 Dzūkija National Park 258–9, 260
Local History Museum (Tukums) 175 Rumšiškės Open-Air Museum 16–17, Gauja National Park 11, 14, 131, 133,
Lydia Koidula Museum (Pärnu) 103 265 186, 187, 190–93
M K Čiurlionis Art Museum (Kaunas) Saaremaa Regional Museum Ķemeri National Park 174
264, 265 (Kuressaare) 98 Laahemaa National Park 13, 110–14
Macikai Concentration Camp Sea Museum (Smiltynė) 286–7 Lahemaa National Park 107, 109
Museum 287 Sea-Fishing Museum (Roja) 176 Matsalu National Park 89, 93, 95
Mans’s Gallery (Jēkabpils) 198 Seaside Open-Air Museum (Ventspils) Slītere National Park 177
Mark Rothko Art Centre (Daugavpils) 15, 181 Soomaa National Park 89, 90, 104–5
15, 201 Sėla Museum (Biržai) 268 Vilsandi National Park 12, 96, 99
Mažeikiai Museum 280 Setu Village Museum (Värska) 127 Žemaitija National Park 273, 274, 281,
Mazsalaca Regional Museum 195 Šilutė Museum 287 282–3
Mickiewicz Museum (Vilnius) 233 Šlapelis House Museum (Vilnius) 227 National Romanticism 156, 157
Mihkli Farm Museum (Viki) 97, 99 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242 Nationalist movements 38–9
Mikkel Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80 Tallinn City Museum 12, 62, 65, 67 NATO 43, 49, 57, 141, 210, 219
Mill-Gallery (Babrungėnai) 282 Talsi Regional Museum 182 Nattier, Jean-Marc, Portrait of Catherine I
Mõniste Open-Air Museum 124 Tartu Art Museum 13, 119 83
Motor Museum (Rīga) 162 Tauras District Partisans and Nature reserves
Multicultural Centre (Kėdainiai) 265 Deportation Museum (Marijampolė) Čepkeliai Reserve 260
Münchausen Museum (Dunte) 196 261 Endla Nature Reserve 117
Museum of Architecture (Rīga) 147 Tērvete History Museum 171 Kamanos State Reserve 280
Museum of Art and History (Cēsis) 193 Theatre, Music and Film Museum Lake Pape Nature Reserve 185
Museum of the Barricades of 1991 (Vilnius) 241 Laukasoo Reserve (Lahemaa National
(Rīga) 14, 146 Tukums Art Museum 175 Park) 110
Museum of Coastal Swedes Turaida Museum Reserve 190, 191, Laumas Nature Park (near Talsi) 182
(Haapsalu) 93 192 Naval College Museum (Ainaži) 194
Museum of Decorative Arts and Väike-Maarja Museum 117 Nazi occupation see World War II
Design (Rīga) 153 Vao Stronghold Tower Museum Nekrošius, Eimuntas 27, 211
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Väike-Maarja) 117 Nemunas Delta 273, 287
(Tallinn) 77 Viinistu Art Museum 113 hotels 307
Museum of Estonian Photography Vilnius Picture Gallery 227 restaurants 331
(Tallinn) 63, 66 Vītolnieki (Pape village) 185 Nemunas river 35
Museum of Genocide Victims see KGB Vytautas the Great War Museum Central Lithuania 259, 260, 261, 262
Museum (Kaunas) 16, 264 Kaunas 262, 263, 265
Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 41, Žemaičiai Art Museum (Plungė) 281 Napoleon’s army crosses 218
155 Mushrooms 23 Western Lithuania 273, 279, 280
Museum of Local History (Ludza) 203 Mushroom Festival (Varėna) 213, 258 Neo-Baroque architecture 21
Museum of Local Lore (Alytus) 260, mushroom picking 311, 359, 361 Neo-Classical architecture 21
261 Music 27 Neris river 204–5, 207, 245, 262
Museum of Local Studies (Valmiera) Estonia 344–5 Nevsky, Alexander 74
194 Latvia 348–9 New Baltic Dance (Vilnius and
Museum of Local Studies and Art Lithuania 352–3 Klaipėda) 212
(Alūksne) 203 Rīga 350, 351 New Music Festival Arena (Rīga) 137
Museum of the Occupation of Latvia Tallinn 346, 347 New Years’ Eve 213
(Rīga) 14, 150, 152 Vilnius 354–5 Nīca
Museum of Occupations (Tallinn) 75 Music festivals hotels 302
Museum of Regional Studies Estonia 52–3, 344 restaurants 323
(Limbaži) 195 Latvia 136–7 Nicholas I, Tsar 181
Museum of Regional Studies and Arts Lithuania 212, 213, 353 Nicholas II, Tsar 92
(Daugavpils) 200 Music shops Nicholas, St 68
Museum of Rīga’s History and Rīga 338 Nida 17, 273, 288
Navigation 14, 146 Tallinn 335 Nightlife
Museum of Theatre and Music Vilnius 343 Estonia 344–5
(Tallinn) 66 Music Theatre (Kaunas) 264 Latvia 349
Museum to the Victims of Fascism Musical Instruments Workshop Lithuania 353
(Kaunas) 264 (Gaiglava) 202 Rīga 351
Museum of Unique Rocks (Mosėdis) Mussolini, Benito 42, 140 Tallinn 346–7
281 Mustvee 13, 127 Vilnius 355
Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery (Kaunas) Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 12, 63, 68–9
264 N Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170
Narva Museum 116 Napoleon I, Emperor 38, 218, 225, 226, Nikon, Patriarch 24, 126
Naval College Museum (Ainaži) 194 236 Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264
Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5 Kaunas 262 Niūronys 269
P Čerņavskis Pottery Workshop- retreat 241 Nõmme (Tallinn) 85
Museum (Preiļi) 199 Narva 13, 47, 107, 116 Nool, Erki 27
Pauls Stradiņš Museum of the History history 37, 55 Notke, Berndt 69
of Medicine (Rīga) 156 restaurants 318 Danse Macabre 68, 69
Pedvāle Open-Air Museum 182 Narva, Battle of 83 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 64
Peter the Great House Museum Narva Castle 116, 117 Nukša, Mārtiņš 157
(Tallinn) 12, 79, 81, 83 Narva Museum 116 Nyländer, N 66
Pharmacy Museum (Kaunas) 262–3 Narva-Jõesuu 116 Nystadt, Treaty of 55, 83
Pharmacy Museum (Viekšniai) 280 hotels 298
Photography Museum (Rīga) 154 National Awakening Movement O
Photography Museum (Šiauliai) 276 (Estonia) 122 Oandu 113
GENERAL INDEX 403
Oandu Beaver Trail (Lahemaa National Palaces (cont.) Patkuli Viewing Platform (Tallinn) 12, 73
Park) 113 Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 12, 79, 80, Päts, Konstantin 56
Oandu Forest Nature Trail (Lahemaa 81, 83 Pāvilosta 15, 183
National Park) 111, 113 Maarjamäe Palace (Tallinn) 82 hotels 302
Obinitsa 124, 125 Mežotne Palace 170 restaurants 323
Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5 Presidential Palace (Vilnius) 224, 226 Pāvilosta Marina 15, 183
The Offering (Čiurlionis) 26 Radvila Palace (Vilnius) 241 Pažaislis Monastery (Kaunas) 16, 20,
Oginskis, Mykolas 281 Royal Palace (Vilnius) 16, 217, 224, 230 265
Oil-shale mining 107, 115 Rundāle Palace 11, 15, 130, 166, 167, Pažaislis Music Festival (Kaunas) 212
Olav II of Norway 71 172–3 Pedvāle Manor 182
Old Believers 24–5, 47, 107, 126, 127, Tyszkiewicz Palace (Palanga) 286 Pedvāle Open-Air Museum 182
198, 200, 210 Verkiai Palace (Vilnius) 249 Pekšēns, Konstantīns 156
Old Believer’s Church (Lake Peipsi) 25 Palanga 17, 206, 273, 286 Perestroika 43
Old Believers’ House (Latvian hotels 307 Perkūnas House (Kaunas) 20, 263
Ethnographic Open-Air Museum) 163 restaurants 331 Personal security 368–9
Old Town Christmas Market (Rīga) 137 Palanga Airport 389 Perti, Pietro 247
Old Town Christmas Market (Tallinn) 53 Paldiski 89, 92 Peter the Great 37, 38, 55, 83
Old Town Hall (Kaunas) 16, 21, 262 hotels 297 Biržai 268
Old Town Medieval Market (Tallinn) 53 restaurants 317 Church of St Paraskeva (Vilnius) 227
Õllesummer Festival (Tallinn) 52–3 Palloni, Michelangelo 247, 265 gains Estonia 89
Olympic Games Palmse Manor House (Lahemaa gains Latvia 139
Estonia 56–7 National Park) 13, 111, 112 hand print 231
Latvia 140 Palusalu, Krištjān 27 Kadriorg Palace (Tallinn) 78, 79, 80
Lithuania 211 Palūšė 270 Paldiski 92
Winter Olympics 123 Panemunė 279 Peter the Great House Museum
Ontika Coast 13, 107, 115 Paneriai 242, 248–9 (Tallinn) 12, 79, 81, 83
hotels 298 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius) portrait (Delaroche) 83
restaurants 318 41, 248–9 St Peter’s Church (Rīga) 153
Öördi Hiking Trail (Soomaa National Panevėžys 254, 268 Tallinn 59
Park) 105 hotels 306 Peter the GreatmKadriorg Park (Tallinn)
Opening hours restaurants 329 78
banks 370 Pankoks, Mikelis 185 Pharmacies 369
monuments, churches and historic Panso, Voldemar 27 Pharmacy Museum (Kaunas) 262–3
sights 366 Paralepa Beach (Haapsalu) 92 Pharmacy Museum (Viekšniai) 280
shops 332, 336, 340 Pārispea Peninsula 113 Photographers 26
Opera Parking Photography Museum (Rīga) 154
Estonian National Opera (Tallinn) Rīga 386 Photography Museum (Šiauliai) 276
76–7 Tallinn 380–81 Phrase books
Latvia 348–9 Vilnius 392 Estonian 411–12
Rīga 350, 351 Parks and gardens Latvian 413–14
Tallinn 346, 347 Bastejkalns (Rīga) 154 Lithuanian 415–16
Vilnius 354, 355 Botanical Gardens (Rīga) 159 Piano Stars (Liepāja) 136
Operation Barbarossa 219 Europe Park 253, 258 Pickpockets 368
Oppenheim, Dennis 258 Folk Song Park (Turaida Museum Picture Gallery (Klaipėda) 285
Orchids 23 Reserve) 192 Piiri Tavern (Vasteliina) 125
Orlov-Davydov, Count 82 Grūtas Park 259 Piirissaar Island (Lake Peipsi) 127
Ornithological Centre (Lake Engure) Kadriorg Park (Tallinn) 12, 78–81 Pikk Hermann Tower (Tallinn) 74
176 Ķemeri Park 174 Pikk Jalg Gate Tower (Tallinn) 73
Orthodox Cathedral (Rīga) 24, 155 Labanoras Regional Park 269 Pikk Street (Tallinn) 71
Orthodox Cathedral of St Simeon and Līgatne Education and Recreation Pilies Street (Vilnius) 16, 222
St Anna (Jelgava) 15, 170 Centre (Gauja National Park) 14, 191, street-by-street 224–5
Orthodox Christianity 24–5 193 Piłsudski, Józef 218, 248
Orthodox Church (Limbaži) 195 Oru Park (Toila) 115 Pirita Convent (Tallinn) 84
Orthodox Church of St Nicholas Orvidas Garden 281 Pirita river 84
(Vilnius) 233 Sculpture Park (Klaipėda) 285 Pirita Yachting Centre (Tallinn) 57
Oru Park (Toila) 115 Seaside Park (Liepāja) 15, 185 Plateliai 281, 282
Orvidas, Vilius 281 Tallinn Botanical Gardens 12, 84–5 Pliekšāns, Janis 161
Orvidas Garden 281 Tērvete Nature Park 171 Plokštinė Former Soviet Missile Base
Otepää 54, 107, 122 Tree Park (Skrīveri) 197 283
hotels 299 Victory Park (Rīga) 159 Plungė 281
restaurants 318 Vingis Park (Vilnius) 245 hotels 307
winter sports 123 Winter Garden (Kretinga) 286 Plungė Manor 281
Õun, Ülo, Father and Son Statue (Tartu) Parliaments Poetry Spring (Vilnius) 212
119 Rīga 148 Pokaiņi Forest 171
Outdoor activites 356–61 Tallinn 74 Poland
Vilnius 245 and Duchy of Courland 37, 138, 139
P Pärn, Priit 26 rule in Latvia 187
Paberžė 265 Parnidis Dune (Curonian Spit) 17, 206, Police 368, 369
Pac, Michal Kazimierz 246 209, 288, 289 Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
Paganism 24, 35, 36 Pärnu 13, 46, 89, 90, 102–3 36–7, 214–15, 221
Estonia 50 climate 32 partitions of 215, 279
Latvia 134 festivals 52, 53 Politics
Lithuania 269, 271, 273 history 54, 55 Estonia 50
von Pahlen family 112 hotels 298 Latvia 134–5
Paide 117 map 103 Lithuania 210–11
restaurants 318 restaurants 317 Poltava, Battle of 37
Pakri 92 Pärnu Airport 377 Põltsamaa 117
Pakruojis 268 Pärnu Concert Hall 102 hotels 299
Paksas, Rolandas 210 Pärnu Contemporary Music Days 53 restaurants 318
Palaces Pärnu Hanseatic Days 52 Põltsamaa Museum 117
Aušra Avenue Palace (Šiauliai) 276 Pärnu river 102 Põlva 126
Ducal Palace (Trakai) 257 Pärt, Arvo 27, 117 hotels 299
Jelgava Palace 15, 170, 178–9 Passports 364, 365 restaurants 318
404 GENERAL INDEX
Ventspils Castle 14, 15, 180 Vormsi Island (cont.) World War I (cont.)
Verkiai Palace (Vilnius) 249 restaurants 318 Šiauliai 276
Vēršupīte river 174 Võru 125 Soviet War Memorial (Tallinn) 84
Vestermanis, Margers 155 hotels 299 Vecāķi 162
Vēveris, Eižens 162 restaurants 319 Ventspils Castle 180
Victory Park (Rīga) 159 Võsu 13, 111, 112 World War II 42–3
Vidzeme 22, 154, 163, 187, 188, 194 Vytautas, Grand Duke of Lithuania 36, Alytus 260
Vidzgiris Forest 260 215, 216, 256–7, 263 Dauderi (Rīga) 160
Viekšniai 280 statue (Birštonas) 261 Estonia 56
Vietinghoff, Baron 203 Vytautas Castle Hill (Birštonas) 261 Holocaust Memorial (Biķernieki
A View of Tallinn with Hattorpe Tower Vytautas Church (Kaunas) 263 Forest) 161
(Schlater) 8–9 Vytautas the Great War Museum Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 242
Viinistu 110, 113 (Kaunas) 16, 264 Jelgava 167
Viinistu Art Museum 113 Kalvarija 261
Viitna 112 W Latvia 140, 141
Viķe-Freiberga, Vaira 141 Walking Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149
Viki 99 Käsmu Boulder Walk 13, 112, 114 Lithuania 219
Vikings 35 Lakeside walk (Trakai) 256 Macikai Concentration Camp
Vilde (café) (Tartu) 120, 319 Rīga 387 Museum 287
Vilde, Eduard 27, 81 Tallinn 381 Mežaparks (Rīga) 160
Eduard Vilde Memorial Museum Vilnius 393 Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 41,
(Tallinn) 78, 81 see also Hiking and trekking 155
statue (Tartu) 47, 120 Walter, J H B 21 Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
Viljandi 107, 122 Water parks, Aqua Park (Ventspils) 181 (Rīga) 14, 150, 151, 152
festivals 53 Water sports 359, 361 Museum of Occupations (Tallinn) 75
history 54 Watteau, Antoine 153 Museum of Rīga’s History and
hotels 299 Weigh House (Kuressaare) 98 Navigation 146
restaurants 319 Weights and measures 367 Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264
Viljandi Folk Festival 53, 107 Wellness tourism 259 Occupation Museum (Liepāja) 184–5
Vilna Ghetto (Vilnius) 243 Western Estonia 88–105 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius)
Vilnia river 231 hotels 297–8 41, 248–9
Vilnius 209, 220–51, 253 restaurants 316–18 Rainiai 280
Baroque architecture 234, 237 travel 91 Raseiniai 279
climate 33 Western Latvia 166–85 Rēzekne 199
entertainment 354–5 hotels 301–2 Rīga 148
festivals 212, 213 restaurants 322–4 Rīga Ghetto Museum 158
Further Afield 244–9 travel 168–9 Rumbula Forest 162
getting around 223, 392–3 Western Lithuania 272–89 Salaspils 162
history 38, 42, 215–19, 221 hotels 306–7 Soviet War Memorial (Tallinn) 84
hotels 304–5 map 274–5 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
itineraries 11, 16 restaurants 330–31 Vilna Ghetto 243
Jewish Vilnius 40, 243 travel 275 Vilnius 221
map 222–3 Wetlands 22 Wulbern, Johann Heinrich 102
Pilies Street and Vilnius University White Lady Days (Haapsalu) 92
street-by-street 224–5 Wi-Fi 372–5 Y
restaurants 326–8 Wiiralt, Eduard 26 Yeltsin, Boris 43
shopping 342–3 Wilde, Oscar 47, 120
Street Finder 250–51 Wildlife 22–3 Z
Town Hall Square to the Gates of Lahemaa National Park 110 Zāle, Kārlis
Dawn street-by-street 234–5 Līgatne Education and Recreation Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161
Vilnius Academy of Art 279 Centre (Gauja National Park) 14, 191, Freedom Monument 154
Vilnius Airport 388, 389 193 Mother Latvia 161
Vilnius Cathedral 16, 207, 224, 228–9 Orjaku Nature Trail (Hiiumaa) 95 Žalgiris, Battle of see Grünwald, Battle
Vilnius City Card 366 Rīga Zoo 160–61 of
Vilnius Jazz 213 Tori Stud Farm 105 Žalgiris Yacht Club (Trakai) 256
Vilnius Picture Gallery 227 see also Birds; National parks; Nature Zapp, Walter 154
Vilnius University 16, 220, 221, 226 reserves Zappa, Frank, statue (Vilnius) 242
history 38–9, 215, 217, 218 Windsurfing 359 Zapyškis Church (Kaunas) 265
street-by-street 224–5 Wine 312 Zarudny, Ivan 70
Vilnius–Molėtai Road, restaurants 330 Sabile 182 Zatlers, Valdis 141
Vilnius–Panevėžys Road, restaurants Winter Garden (Kretinga) 286 Žemaičiai Art Museum (Plungė) 281
330 Winter Olympics 123 Žemaičių Kalvarija 283
Vilsandi Island 99 Winter sports 359, 361 Žemaitija 273, 280, 281, 282–3
Vilsandi National Park 12, 96, 99 Estonia 123 Žemaitija National Park 273, 274, 281,
Vingis Park (Vilnius) 245 Witchcraft 264, 281 282–3
VIRAC (Venspils International Radio Witch’s Ash (Plateliai) 281 hotels 307
Astronomy Centre) 181 Wolves 22 restaurants 331
Virgin Mary Catholic Church Woodlands Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Zemgale 130, 163, 167, 175
(Daugavpils) 201 World Lithuanian Song Festival Zemgale Peasants’ Homestead
Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church (Otepää) (Vilnius) 245 (Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air
25 World War I 39 Museum) 163
Viru Gate (Tallinn) 60, 66 Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244 Zemgaļi 167
Viru Street (Tallinn) 63 Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Zemgalians 35
Visaginas 253, 269 Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Zervynos 259, 260
hotels 306 Central Market (Rīga) 159 Žilinskas, Mykolas, Mykolas Žilinskas Art
restaurants 330 Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 236 Gallery (Kaunas) 264
Visas 364, 365 Estonia 55 Žmuidzinavičius, Antanas 264
Vītolnieki (Pape village) 185 Latvia 139 Zola, Emile 81
Vītols, Jāzeps 27 Latvian War Museum (Rīga) 149 Zubov, Count Valerian 172
Vogels-Vogelstein, Christiana 194 Lithuania 218 Zubov, Platon 279
Vokiečių Street (Vilnius) 234 Museum of Rīga’s History and Zvaigzne, Gvido 154
Vormsi Island 89, 92, 93 Navigation 146 Zvārte Rock (Gauja National Park) 191
hotels 298 Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170 Žvėrynas (Vilnius) 16, 245
408 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Revisions Team
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Emma Anacootee, Claire Baranowski, Marta
of this book. Bescos, Imogen Corke, Dipika Dasgupta, Joel Dullroy,
Alice Fewery, Anna Freiberger, Howard Jarvis, Sumita
Contributors Khatwani, Kathryn Lane, Maite Lantaron, Carly Madden,
Howard Jarvis has been editor of numerous publications Alison McGill, George Nimmo, Bhavika Mathur, Vikki
including RigaNOW!, The Baltic Times, TTG Nordic and Minsk Nousiainen, Susie Peachey, Helen Peters, Rada Radojicic,
In Your Pocket. He has been a regular contributor for the Lucy Richards, Ellen Root, Sands Publishing Solutions,
Jane’s Information Group since 2000. Susana Smith, Neil Taylor, Richa Verma, Matt Willis