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Poland (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
Poland (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF
POLAND
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
POLAND
Main Contributors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer
Małgorzata Omilanowska
Jerzy S. Majewski
Contents
Translators Mark Cole, Marian Dragon, Teresa Levitt, Joanna Pillans, Vera Rich
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 Putting Poland
Copyright © 2001, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
on the Map 16
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, A Portrait of Poland 18
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written Poland Through
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
the Year 38
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of Poland 42
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-46542-822-6 Warsaw
Throughout this book, floors are numbered in accordance with local Polish usage;
ie. the “first” floor is the floor above ground level.
Area By Area
Warsaw at a Glance 64
The Royal
Route 78
Further
Afield 98
Poland Region
by Region
Poland at a Glance 112
Mazovia and
the Lublin Region 114
Krakow 132
Małopolska
(Lesser Poland) 152
Silesia 180
Wielkopolska
(Greater Poland) 212
Gdańsk 236
Pomerania 256
one identified by its own stand in isolation, and meadows stretch to the edge of
valleys where swift rivers flow. For centuries, Podlasie was the
1 Introduction
borderland between the Poles and the eastern Slavonic peoples.
colour code; the cities of The hilly Lublin region has many excellent examples of Renaissance
and Baroque architecture.
Warsaw, Krakow and For centuries, Mazovia was, both culturally politically active yet conservative petty
This section describes the
and economically, one of the least
developed areas of the ethnically Polish
yeoman-gentry. Even today, in the east of
the region and in Podlasie, farmsteads, character and history of
Gdańsk also have their lands of the Commonwealth of Two with humble cottages built in the style
Nations. In the early Middle Ages it was
the homeland of the Mazowie tribe. It was
of mansions, can be seen. Apart from
Warsaw, the towns of Mazovia have each area, highlighting its
own chapters and colour united with the state of the Polanie under always been modest, and this is evident
Prince Mieszko I (963–92). The Principality
of Mazovia came into existence in 1138,
even today in more recent buildings and
modern urban planning. development over the
codes. On the inside front during the division of Poland, and it
preserved its independence for nearly 400
After the Congress of Vienna (1815),
Mazovia and the Lublin region formed
centuries and what it has
years. Mazovia was incorporated into the part of the Congress Kingdom, under
these areas. All the most been influenced by the presence of a on the banks of the Vistula.
International border
of Kazimierz Dolny, is one of the region’s most Ostrołęka Regional border
Przasnysz
2 Regional Map
beautiful sights. Roztocze and Zamość, widely
a Białystok
described as the “pearl of the Renaissance”, Wkr
Toruń OPINOGÓRA
are also very picturesque. Mazovia has CIECHANÓW Róźan
ruins of brick-built castles, and in both
Wh i te Mazowiecka
mansions. Żelazowa Wola is on the Vistula
ra
PUŁTUSK Fo res t
Fryderyk Chopin’s birthplace and Płońsk TREBLINKA
CZERSK
Garwolin
Łuków Międzyrzec
Podlaski
bus. However, many of the
smaller ones are more easily
reached by car. Highway E30
crosses Mazovia from east
are numbered, and there The house of the novelist Stefan Żeromski
(1864–1925) in Nałęczów
Rawa
Mazowiecka Warka
Żelechów
RADZYŃ
PODLASKI
to west. From Warsaw, take
highway E77 for Radom and
highway 17 for Lublin.
ca
Mogielnica i
Pil
3 Detailed Information
1138), Płock was the capital of E Diocesan Museum located in a former monastery Church of the Annunciation, Romantyzmu). Environs
Poland and the favoured royal ul. Tumska 3a. Tel 24 262 26 23. and houses one of the largest founded in the first half of the The romantic park in which Near the town, on the right bank
seat. From 1138 to the end of Open May–Sep: 10am–3pm Tue–Sat, collections of Art Nouveau in 16th century and rebuilt in the the mansion is set also contains of the Narwa, are water meadows
the 15th century, Płock was the 11am–4pm Sun & public hols; the world. Exhibits include 17th, the parish Church of the the parish church, with the and the White Forest (Puszcza
place of residence of the
Mazovian and Płock princes.
In the 12th century, it was an
Oct–Apr: 10am–1pm Wed–Sat,
11am–2pm Sun & public hols.
& 8 ∑ mdplock.pl
reconstructions of domestic
interiors, with works of art,
furniture, textiles and everyday
Nativity of the Blessed Virgin
Mary, dating from the 16th
century, and the modest Neo-
mausoleum of the Krasiński
family where the poet is buried.
Noteworthy too is the marble
Biała), which has a rich variety of
plants and wildlife, including
over 200 species of birds.
All the important towns
important centre of political
and cultural life in Poland.
The buildings of old Płock
are relatively modest, although
The Diocesan Museum
(Muzeum Diecezjalne) contains
a rich collection of cathedral
treasures. Especially noteworthy
objects of the period.
Environs
There are sports facilities on
Gothic town hall, designed by tomb of Count Zygmunt’s
Henryk Marconi in the mid-19th mother, Maria Krasińska, by Luigi
century. The low-rise apartment Pampaloni, dating from 1841.
blocks with gable roofs near the
and other places to visit are
the small Neo-Classical
houses, now restored, make
a picturesque ensemble.
are the gold vessels and
liturgical textiles, particularly
the chasubles, the oldest of
Lake Włocławek, a reservoir on
the Vistula, and a stud farm at
Łąck, 9 km (5 miles) from Płock.
railway station were built during E Museum of Romanticism
the Nazi occupation. After the
fall of Poland in September
ul. Krasińskiego 9. Tel 23 671 70 25.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Apr:
8am–4pm). & 8
described individually. They
Particularly noteworthy is the 1939 and the annexation of
Neo-Classical town hall, built in
1824–7 to a design by Jakub
Kubicki. Here, on 23 September
northern Mazovia to the Third
Reich, the Nazis planned to
settle German colonists in many
4 Pułtusk
are listed in order and follow
1831 during the uprising against towns here. Except for the castle Road map E3. * 19,200. @
Russian rule, the final session of
the insurgent Sejm of the
Kingdom of Poland was held.
and parish church, they n Rynek 41, Town Hall Tower
intended to demolish the whole (23 692 51 32). ∑ pultusk.pl
of Ciechanów and build it anew.
the numbering shown on
Another notable building is
the large Neo-Gothic cathedral
(1911–19) of the Mariavite
Church of Poland. Also worth
E Museum of the
Mazovian Nobility
ul. Warszawska 61a. Tel 23 672 53 46.
Of all the small towns in Mazovia,
Pułtusk has the most beautiful
setting. Its historic centre, located
on an island formed by an arm
the Regional Map. Detailed
seeing are the Baroque church,
the Classical toll-gates and the
remains of the Gothic city walls. Tum Hill from the Vistula, with the cathedral and Benedictine abbey
Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sun (Jul–Aug: of the River Narwa, has one of
10am–6pm). & (free one day a week, the longest market squares in
usually Sat). ∑ muzeumciechanow.pl Europe. The town hall, with its
The town hall at Pułtusk, in one of
Europe’s longest market squares
information is given about
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
194 POLAND REGION BY REGION WROCŁAW 195 The Visitors’ Checklist provides
d Wrocław R Church of the Holy Name VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
practical information about
of Jesus
The city of Wrocław bears the stamp of several cultures. It was
founded by a Czech duke in the 10th century and a Polish
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Tel 71 344 94 23.
This church (Kościół Najświęt-
szego Imienia Jezus), built for
Practical Information
Road map C4. * 630,000.
n Rynek 14 (71 344 31 11).
transport, opening times, events
bishopric was established here in 1000. Later it became the _ Festival of Stage Songs (Mar);
capital of the duchy of Silesian Piasts, and then came under
Czech rule in 1335. In 1526, with the whole Czech state, it was
the Jesuits in 1689–98, is a good
example of Silesian Baroque
church architecture. The modest
Jazz on the Odra (May);
International Street Art Festival
and the closing dates of places of
incorporated into the Habsburg Empire, and in 1741 was (Aug); Wrocław Guitar Festival
exterior conceals a breathtaking
transferred to Prussian rule. The fierce defence that German
forces put up here in the last months of World War II left
interior, built in 1722–34 by
Krzysztof Tausch. The vaulting
(Nov). ∑ wroclaw.pl
Transport
particular interest.
was decorated by the Viennese The Baroque Hochberg Chapel beside the k Strachowice 11 km (7 miles)
almost three-quarters of the city in ruins. However, west of Wrocław. £ ul.
artist Johann Michael Rottmayer Church of St Vincent
reconstruction has largely healed the ravages of the past. in 1704–6. Piłsudskiego 105.
Church of
Baroque pietą in the Church of the St Martin Church of the
Piasek Island Holy Cross Church of
P Wrocław University Holy Name of Jesus Church of
most
Tumski Ś W. St Giles 17th-century paintings,
IDZIE
GO
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Aula Leopoldina: St Anna including works by the Silesian
Church of the K AT PLAC
EDRA KATED-
PLAC ŚW. LNA
Tel 71 375 26 18. Open 10am–4pm Holy Name of Jesus JADWIGI Church of RALNY artist Michael Willmann (1630–
St Mary Archbishop’s Cathedral of
Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am–5pm Fri–Sun. Wrocław University Ossoliński on Piasek Palace St John the Baptist 1706) and wooden sculptures
4
& ∑ uni.wroc.pl
Main Towns
PLAC Library by Thomas Weissfeldt (1630–
Arsenal KA UNIWERSYTECKI Church of OSTRÓW TUMSKI
DZ
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Wrocław University was CIES GRO UNIW
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St Vincent
BU
1712). The second floor is
H ZYŃ TEC LW Od
ZAŃ
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established as an academy 11 km (7 miles) TK
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YC NO
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Church of I KOWSK
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St Barbara Ś W. Church of
MIK NIC
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university. Many of its alumni OŁA St Elizabeth most
I AT
JA
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KUŹ
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ŚNIC
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include nine Nobel laureates, SQUARE P U R KY N I E G O
NOWY
GAR
KI EŁBA
DY Ń SKA
NCA Museum
among them the nuclear
P O D WA L E
Y
AŹN St Adalbert Panorama
physicist Max Born (1882–
PS
ARZYN
ICZ J. Słowacki
E Cathedral of Racławice
NAR
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BE R
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DY
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K AT
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a Polish centre of learning A JULI
Store Zoo
WŁ IĘC
ŚW
University
CKA
ŁAC
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imposing Baroque building is Façade of the National Museum
WS
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Palace ZA Church of
WI
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decoration includes stucco- PO PLAC still contains Gothic ducal tombs. ul. Purkyniego 11. Tel 71 344 16 61.
A
work, gilding and carvings AL Wenceslas, Stanisław Next door, at No. 17, is the Gothic Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (summer:
E and Dorothy M E N N
KA
PLAC
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TEATRALNY
and paintings by Christoph T E AT Macieja), which dates from the for details. & (buy tickets online).
Dolnośląska
A ŁA
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A 7 ∑ panoramaraclawicka.pl
ICK
Opera Hause
Handke glorifying wisdom, 14th and early 15th centuries
CI
O
KS.
knowledge and science, and BO ŻEG Theatre and was once owned by the This painting depicts the Battle
town map
Train station
Central Wrocław 550 m (600 yards)
walls of the House of the Nuns took the artists Jan Styka and
1 Wrocław University of Trebnica, the oldest surviving Wojciech Kossak nine months
2 Church of the Holy Name secular building in the city. to paint. Unveiled in 1894 in
+ Plac Biskupa Nankera Lviv, in Ukraine, it was brought
of Jesus
The buildings in this square date E National Museum to Poland in 1946 and put on
3 Plac Biskupa Nankera
from various periods. The Gothic pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5. Tel 71 display in Wrocław in 1985.
4 National Museum
Church of St Vincent (Kościół 372 51 50. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
5 Panorama of Racławice Wed–Sun (to 6pm Sat); Oct–Mar:
św. Wincentego), at No. 5, was
6 Bernadine Church and Monastery 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (to 5pm Sat).
erected in the 13th to the 15th
7 Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene & 7 (free on Sat, limited
centuries. The late 17th-century
8 Kameleon Store Baroque monastery is now part availability). ∑ mnwr.art.pl
9 Market Square of the University of Wrocław. The ground floor contains
0 Town Hall The group of Baroque examples of Silesian and Gothic
q Church of St Elizabeth monastic buildings at No. 16 art, including the tombstone of
w Royal Palace encloses the small 13th-century Henry IV, the Good, dating from
e Church of Saints Wenceslas, Church of St Clare (Kościół św. 1300. The first floor has a Rotunda containing the Panorama of
The richly ornamented interior of the university assembly hall Stanisław and Dorothy Klary). The church was used by collection of 16th- and Racławice
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16 For keys to symbols see back flap
by a double arch.
.
A
Church of St Arch-
.
Martin
RD
diocesan
KA
Museum
ŚWIĘ TOKRZYSK A
A
A I NK
NI K OM
Tumski Bridge NO . B
.
The present bridge KA RD
KA
was built in 1888– NY
92. The figures of St AL
MOST MŁ
Ś W. DR
Jadwiga and St John MAR
CINA A TE
. K
the Baptist guarding it are PL
by Gustav Grunenberg.
5 Street-by-Street Map
YŃSKI
LNA
RA
ED
KAT
Monument to St
John Nepomuk
main towns and cities with
photographs and captions
WIGI
Stars indicate the sights that A suggested route for a walk covers
no visitor should miss. the more interesting streets in the area.
DISCOVERING POLAND
The following itineraries have been designed everything from vibrant modern cities like
to take in as many of Poland’s highlights as Poznań and Wrocław to quaint medieval
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Toruń and magical Lublin, plus stunning
manageable. First come three two-day tours: natural landscapes and the snow-capped
the first covers the capital Warsaw, a Tatra Mountains of the far south. Ideas for
boisterous modern metropolis, while the extending your stay include the tranquil,
others take in romantic, monument-studded unspoilt Mazurian Lakes and the hauntingly
Krakow and the evocative, history-soaked bare Bieszczady Mountains. Pick, combine
port city of Gdańsk. Next comes a two-week and follow your favourite tours, or simply
tour of the whole country that includes dip in and out and be inspired.
Baltic
Sea
Gdańsk
POMORSKIE
Malbork
ZACHODNIO-
POMORSKIE
a
isł
W
KUJAWSKO-
POMORSKIE
Wa rt a Toruń
Poznań
OPOLSKIE
ŚLĄSKIE
Auschwitz-Birkenau
Memorial Museum
•
Spend a day exploring the •
Study the face of contemporary •
Spend an evening enjoying
imposing riverside fortress Poland in Wrocław, an the alfresco cafés on the main
of Malbork, former capital arresting historic city that is square in Zamość – Poland at
of the Teutonic Knights. the commercial and cultural its most Italianate.
•
Stroll the streets of charming capital of the southwest. •
Immerse yourself in the
Toruń, a laid-back university •
Experience exhilarating magical Old Town atmosphere
town packed with an mountain scenery and a of Lublin, eastern Poland’s
engaging jumble of rich choice of outdoor most evocative city.
medieval, Renaissance activities with a visit to the
and Baroque buildings. Tatra National Park.
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
PODLASKIE
ew
Nar
Key
MAZOWIECKIE Białowieża
National Park Two-Week Grand
Bug Tour of Poland
W is
ła
Warsaw
ŁÓDZKIE
Pulawy
Kozlówka
Kazimierz Dolny Lublin
LUBELSKIE
ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKIE
Zamość
isła
W
Krakow
PODKARPACKIE
Wieliczka
Salt Mine
MAŁOPOLSKIE
Wrocław Cathedral
The Cathedral of St John the Baptist,
with its distinctive spires, was erected
over several centuries, damaged in
World War II and subsequently rebuilt.
12 INTRODUCING POLAND
Day 2
Morning Start the day at the
iconic Palace of Culture and
Science (p95), a Stalinist-era
building that contains a
viewing platform and several
cafés. Admire the extensive
collections of the National
Museum (pp86–7) before taking
a breather at one of the cafés on
Plac Trzech Krzyży (p85).
Day 2
Morning Walk south from the
Main Market Square along
Ulica Grodzka (p142) to the
Wawel (pp144–5). View the
royal tombs at the Cathedral
(pp148–9) and climb the bell
tower before taking a tour of
the Wawel Royal Castle
(pp146–7). Admire the stunning
views of the Vistula river from
the ramparts of the citadel.
Day 7: Wrocław
Drive south from Poznań to
Wrocław (pp194–203), the fast-
The famous Proserpine Fountain in the Old Market Square, Poznań developing capital of Lower
Silesia. Wrocław’s market square,
Two-Week Grand the walled precinct. With a Poland’s second largest, focuses
Tour of Poland son-et-lumière show lighting on an arresting Gothic town
up the fortress in the evening, hall. Visit the extraordinary
•
Airports The best way to there’s plenty here to fill a day. Panorama of Racławice
enjoy this tour is to arrive (p195), a huge circular painting
at and depart from Warsaw. To extend your trip… celebrating an 18th-century
Bear in mind, however, that Spend a day or two in the battle, then head to the quaint
you can also arrive at and resort of Mikołajki, 250 km Ostrów Tumski cathedral
depart from Gdańsk, Poznań, (155 miles) east of Gdańsk, quarter, which is accessed by
Wrocław or Krakow airports, at the heart of the a landmark cast-iron bridge.
and pick up the circuit Mazurian Lake region
described below from a (pp290–91). You can take a Day 8: Oświęcim (Auschwitz)
different starting point. steamboat trip on Lake From Wrocław, travel east,
•
Transport Public transport Śniardwy, hike to the wild towards Krakow. Stop off en
is time-consuming in swan reserve at Łuknajno, route at the town of Oświęcim,
Poland, and although this or simply stroll beside the site of the Auschwitz-Birkenau
itinerary can be tackled chic yachting marina Memorial Museum (p166). This
using a mixture of train or relax in a lakeside café. notorious former World War II
and bus, travel is much concentration camp, with its
quicker by car. moving museum displays, is
Day 5: Toruń on the eastern outskirts of
From Gdańsk, travel south Oświęcim; the much larger
Days 1 and 2: Warsaw along the Vistula river to the Birkenau, where the Nazis
Follow the two-day city itinerary partly walled university town committed mass murder on
on page 12. of Toruń (pp276–9). Spend the an industrial scale, is a further
afternoon strolling around the 3 km (2 miles) to the east.
Day 3: Gdańsk centre, which is packed with Allow several hours to get
Travel north from Warsaw medieval churches and Baroque the most from your visit.
across the green plains of townhouses, taking time to visit
northern Poland to the port the house museum devoted
city of Gdańsk (pp236–55). to Toruń’s most famous son,
Spend the afternoon and the astronomer Nicolaus
evening exploring Gdańsk’s Copernicus. Be sure to stock up
historic heart by following part on piernik, the local gingerbread,
of the first day of the two-day at one of the town’s bakeries.
city itinerary on page 13.
Day 6: Poznań
Day 4: Malbork Travel from Toruń to the vibrant
Take a day trip from Gdańsk commercial and cultural city of
to the town of Malbork Poznań (pp220–25). Begin an
(pp270–71), site of Poland’s afternoon’s sightseeing on the
most complete medieval famously well-preserved market
fortress complex. Built in the square, which is edged by
13th century by the Teutonic brightly coloured merchants’
Knights, it served as the capital houses and features an
of their independent state. The ebullient, Italianate town hall.
Grand Master’s Palace, Cathedral Have your picture taken in front The rocky shore of Lake Śniardwy, one of
and Castle Museum all lie within of the Proserpine Fountain the Great Mazurian Lakes
For practical information on travelling around Poland, see pp346–53
DISCOVERING POLAND 15
ZACHODNIO-
Człuchów
POMORSKIE Grudziàdz
Szczecin Złotów
Bydgoszcz
Piła
Bydgoszcz Toruń
Człopa
Schwedt/
Wittstock Oder Dobiegniew K U J AW S K O -
POMORSKIE
Rogoêno
a
r t Inowrocław
Gorzów Wa
Wielkopolski
Oranienburg Oborniki Gniezno
Frankfurt Poznań
Berlin (Oder) Poznań-Ławica
Łagów
Potsdam Konin
Wolsztyn WIELKOPOLSKIE
Jarocin
Luckenwalde
Zielona Góra Leszno
Cottbus LUBUSKIE Kalisz
Wieruszów
Legnica Oleśnica
Gorlitz
Atlantic
SLOV.
CROATIA
ROMANIA REPUBLIC
Ocean BOSNIA SERBIA
I TA LY HERZ.
MONTEN. Brno
KOS. BULGARIA
MAC.
S PA I N ALBANIA
GREECE
TURKEY
Piestany
Kaunas
Vilnius
RUSSIAN LITHUANIA
FEDERATION
(KALININGRAD)
Marijampolė
Kaliningrad
n
Gulf of
oo
Danzig L ag Šalčininkai
u la Budzisko
st
Vi Lidzbark
Elbląg Warmiński Suwałki
Druskininkai
Pasłęk
Augustów
WA R M I Ń S K O - Ełk
Olsztyn MAZURSKIE Hrodna
Nidzica Slonim
Vaŭkavysk
Brodnica Łomźa Białystok
Mława
Ostrołęka
Zambrów PODLASKIE
MAZOWIECKIE
Ciechanów
BELARUS
Bielsk
Ostrów Podlaski
w
Włocławek Wyszków
Płońsk Bug
Płock
Warsaw Modlin
Wi s ł a Warsaw Siedlce Biała Brest
Kutno Kobryn
Pruszków Podlaska
Warsaw Chopin
Łęczyca Międzyrzec
Garwolin Podlaski
Łódź Kock
Łódź
ŁÓDZKIE Włodawa
Tomaszów
Mazowiecki Puławy
Radom Kovel'
Bełchatów Piotrków Lublin
sła
Trybunalski Lublin
Wi
Iłża Chełm
Skarzysko- LUBELSKIE Volodymyr-
Kamienna Volynsky
Kraśnik
Ostrowiec
Zamość
Kielce Opatów
Częstochowa
ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKIE
Jędrzejów Tarnobrzeg
Nisko
ŚLĄSKIE
Zawiercie
UKRAINE
Katowice Mielec Zhovkva
Rzeszów–Jasionka
Katowice
Kraków Rzeszów Radymno
Kraków Tarnów
PODKARPACKIE Lviv
MAŁOPOLSKIE Przemyśl
Bielsko- Krosno 0 kilometres 100
Biała
Nowy Sącz Sanok 0 miles 50
Rabka
Key
Cadca Svidník
Trstená
Motorway
Žilina
Motorway under construction
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND
Growing numbers of tourists visit Poland every year. Even so, it is still a
relatively unknown country. To travellers crossing the lowlands from Eastern
to Western Europe, there may not appear to be the diversity in landscape
and buildings seen in other European countries, but the pages that follow
show the visitor the variety that Poland has to offer, in terms of its culture,
history and landscape.
The legacy of more than 100 years of The country has a substantial foreign
partition rule is still visible in Poland’s trade deficit, but this is balanced by
cultural landscape today. Russian, Prussian the surplus produced by an unofficial
and Austrian administrations left their cross-border trade. There are, however,
mark not only on rural and urban negative aspects of the reforms –
architecture but also on the among them the budget deficit
customs and mentality of and unemployment. The
the Polish people. latter continues to be
high. The problem of
Democratic Change and unemployment is
Economic Development somewhat mitigated
The fall of Communism in Poland by the illegal employment
Logo of the Polish stock
came about largely thanks to exchange of workers, although this is
the efforts of the trade union usually confined to small firms.
Solidarity (Solidarność), which was There is an ambitious programme of
founded in 1980 but forced to go privatization, but it has not yet been
underground after the imposition fully completed, and some enterprises
of martial law. When the democratic are still state-owned.
opposition won the elections to the Sejm Heavy industry tends to be outdated,
and the Senate in 1989, Poland again unprofitable and economically inefficient.
became a country with a parliamentary There is an ongoing systematic
democracy and a market economy. This
was important enough in itself, but it
had wider implications too: by tackling
its inefficient, crisis-ridden socialist
economy, Poland had set the standard
for economic reform in Central and
Eastern Europe as a whole. Many Polish
industries were privatized, and the drastic
reforms that were carried through over a
number of years accelerated Poland’s
GDP to make it the fastest-growing
economy in Europe. By the end of the
1990s, the Polish economy had become
largely resistant to crisis. Session of the Sejm, the lower house of the Polish parliament
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND 23
Lyme grass
(Elymus arenarius)
grows on the sand
The corn poppy dunes. It has
(Papaver rhoeas) is pointed leaves and
becoming its roots bind the
increasingly rare as it sandy subsoil.
is weeded out from
cereal crops.
Marram grass
Toadflax (Linaria (Ammophila arenarea)
vulgaris) has narrow has narrow grey-green
leaves and yellow- leaves, and flowers
orange flowers with between June and
a characteristic spur. August. Like lyme grass,
It grows in ditches it helps to bind the sand
and on wasteland. dunes where it grows.
26 INTRODUCING POLAND
Romanesque
Architecture Semicircular Triforium with
presbytery decorative columns
The Romanesque style
of architecture seen in
Narrow windows that also
Polish cathedrals, palace
served defensive purposes
chapels and monasteries
flourished largely as a
result of the country’s
conversion to Christianity
in the 10th century.
Unfortunately, few
Romanesque buildings
have survived intact.
Among those that have
are the collegiate church
at Tum near Łęczyca (see
p235) and the monastery
at Czerwińsk (see p120),
both of which are
decorated with stone The collegiate church at Tum near This 12th-century
carvings. The Romanesque Łęczyca, dating from the mid-12th Romanesque doorway is
style reached its apogee century, is Poland’s largest surviving from the Cathedral of St
during the 12th century. Romanesque religious building. Mary Magdalene (see p196).
Gothic Architecture
Gothic elements began to appear in late Romanesque architecture
in the early 13th century; this transitional style can be seen in the
abbeys at Wąchock, Sulejów and Koprzywnica. By the end of the
century, the Gothic style was prevalent throughout Polish
architecture. Many fortified castles were built at this time, more
than 80 being founded by
Kazimierz the Great. Notable
examples are those at Będzin,
Ogrodzieniec and Bobolice (see
pp164–5). Gothic churches and
monasteries were also built
throughout the country,
fine examples surviving in
Krakow and Wrocław. The
oldest surviving wooden
churches, such as that at
Dębno, date from the same
period. In Polish provincial The 15th-century church at The doorway of the early
architecture, the Gothic Dębno (see p171) is one of the 15th-century Church of St
style persisted until the oldest surviving wooden Catherine in Krakow has an
early 17th century. churches in Poland. ornamental stepped frame.
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND 27
Decorative ceilings such as those in the churches of The Zygmunt Chapel (see p149) is one
Lubelszczyzna and Kalisz illustrate provincial of the finest examples of Renaissance
interpretations of Renaissance and Mannerist forms. architecture in Poland.
Gate
Historicism
and Modernism
The second half of the 19th
century saw a proliferation of
Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance
and Neo-Baroque buildings. In
the 1880s there was a movement
towards creating an architecture
in the Polish national style,
which gave rise to some very
picturesque structures. Art
Nouveau was short-lived in The wooden chapel at The Warsaw School of
Poland, although it did leave a Jaszczurówka is an example Economics combines
number of attractive buildings, of a building in the Polish modern features and
primarily in Łódź. national style. traditional elements.
Traditional Architecture
Fine examples of wooden architecture can be found
today at most skansens. Log cabins, often with thatched
roofs, can still be seen in many villages in Poland.
Painted interior of a peasant dwelling Beehive in Windmill at the skansen (open-air museum)
in Zalipie human form in Wdzydze Kiszewskie
30 INTRODUCING POLAND
Turban Headpiece
with heron
feathers
Coats of Arms
The coats of arms of aristocratic families
in Poland number no more than about
200. They were held in common by
members of clans with different names.
Aristocratic titles were not used at the
time of the Republic (with the exception
of the titles of Lithuanian princes), while
magnate families looked to foreign rulers
for titles. Polish heraldic symbols usually
had their origins in individual symbols;
they were therefore relatively simple and
An election gathering, at which the nobility elected the differed from those of Western Europe.
king, is portrayed here. This was one of the greatest
privileges exercised by the gentry.
Kołpak
Polish National Dress
Żupan
Required attire of the nobility
in the Baroque era, its main
elements were the żupan (a
kind of shirt) and the kontusz
(an outer garment tied with a Cielątkowa
waistband). Headgear took
the form of either a kołpak
(fur hat) or a square-
bottomed rogatywka.
Men wore their hair
short and sported a
moustache, and Łodzia Szreniawa
sometimes a beard.
Coffin portraits of
Wyloty the deceased were
painted in oils on
Kontusz sash metal plates cut
to the shape of
The kontusz was
the cross-section
an outer garment
with cutout sleeves, of a coffin, to which
which were thrown they were attached
over the shoulders. during funerals.
The cemetery at
Kruszyniany, one of the few
Muslim burial grounds in
Poland, is used by people of
Tartar descent.
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND 37
The ”Church of
Peace” (Kościół Other Denominations
Pokoju) at
Świdnica was one Some of Poland’s historic churches have
of three churches changed denomination over the years –
to be built for instance, when Polish Catholics took
specifically for over disused Protestant churches.
Silesian Protestants Although the original interiors have
after the Thirty generally not survived, the exteriors have
Years’ War, which often been carefully conserved. Some
ended in 1648. religious denominations no longer have
followers in Poland, although their places
of worship remain. An example is the
Mennonite chapel in Gdańsk.
Open-air altar
Pauline
monastery
Judaic
artifacts in
museums are
poignant
vestiges of the
synagogues that were
once so numerous in
Poland. As a result of the
Holocaust and the ensuing
Communist era, there
are few Jews in
Poland today.
Częstochowa Pilgrimage
The Monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa is
the most important Catholic shrine in Poland –
and one of the greatest in the Christian world.
The image of Our Lady of Częstochowa, also The picturesque wooden churches of the
known as the Black Madonna, draws pilgrims all Ukrainian Uniates, or Greek Catholics, built
year round. The main pilgrimage, which attracts for the Lemk and the Boyk minorities, survive
hundreds of thousands of believers from Poland in the Carpathian Mountains. Their
and beyond, is held in the meadows at the foot congregations were resettled in other areas
of the monastery on 15 August each year. during Operation Vistula after World War II.
38 INTRODUCING POLAND
POLAND THROUGH
THE YEAR
Tourists tend to visit Poland in the summer, autumn. The best way of spending winter
between June and September. During that in Poland is skiing in the mountains. As the
period, the most popular tourist spots are majority of Poles are Catholics, traditional
crowded, and a variety of open-air events, Catholic feast days are the most important
from street theatre festivals to re-enactments holidays. The celebrations that take place
of medieval tournaments, take place at Christmas, Easter and Corpus Christi, as
throughout the country. The main music well as other local church festivals, are
and drama festivals are held in spring and interesting spectacles for tourists.
Sunny days
9
The period from May
to September has the
6 greatest number of
days of sunshine. April
3 and September are
often also sunny, while
0 December has the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec least sunshine.
Average Precipitation
MM Inches
80 3
November
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov). People
visit the graves of their relatives
and light candles there.
All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival, Candles lit at a cemetery on
Inauguration of the academic year Krakow. All Saints’ Day
POLAND THROUGH THE YEAR 41
20 68 Temperatures
Temperatures are highest
10 50 in the summer, when
they can exceed 30° C
0 32 (86° F). In winter,
temperatures can fall
-10 24
below zero (32° F),
-20 14 although this is usually
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec short-lived.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Epiphany (6 Jan)
Easter Monday (variable)
May Day (1 May)
Constitution Day (3 May)
Corpus Christi (variable)
Feast of the Assumption
(15 Aug)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Independence Day (11 Nov)
Christmas (25 and 26 Dec)
Winter cityscape, Gdańsk
INTRODUCING POLAND 43
THE HISTORY OF
POLAND
Poland’s borders have changed almost continuously with the course of
history. The origins of the Polish nation go back to the 10th century, when
Slav tribes living in the area of Gniezno united together under the Piast
dynasty, which then ruled Poland until 1370.
Mieszko I, the first historic prince of this and military weakness led to its
line, converted to Christianity in 966, partitioning by Russia, Prussia and Austria.
bringing his kingdom into Christian In 1795 Poland was wiped off the map of
Europe. The Piast dynasty ruled Poland Europe for more than 100 years. Attempts
with variable fortune and embroiled the to wrest independence by insurrection
nation in domestic quarrels for 150 years. were unsuccessful, and Poland did not
After this dynasty died out, the great regain its sovereignty until 1918. The
Lithuanian prince Jagiełło took the Polish arduous process of rebuilding and uniting
throne and founded a new dynasty. The the nation was still incomplete when, at
treaty with Lithuania signed at Krewo in the outbreak of World War II, a six-year
1385 initiated the long process of period of German and Soviet occupation
consolidation between these nations, began. The price that Poland paid was very
culminating in 1569 with the signing of the high: millions were murdered, including
Union of Lublin. In the 15th century the virtually its entire Jewish population. The
Jagiellonians achieved many military country suffered devastation and there
successes, forming the powerful Republic were huge territorial losses, which were
of Two Nations (Rzeczpospolita Obojga only partly compensated by the Allies’
Narodów). After the Jagiellonian dynasty decision to move the border westwards.
died out in 1572, the authorities After the war, Poland was subjugated by
introduced elective kings, with the nobility the Soviet Union and did not become a
having the right to vote. Poland’s political fully democratic nation until 1989.
Map of the Republic of Two Nations (Rzeczpospolita Obojga Narodów) in the 17th century
Stanisław August Poniatowski, the last king of Poland
44 INTRODUCING POLAND
Bishop Stanisław
of Szczepanów
Tomb of Henry IV
The Silesian prince Henry
IV, the Good (Henryk IV
Probus, 1288–90) tried
to unite Poland but Martyrdom of
died, probably by St Stanisław
poisoning. His tomb
is a fine example of An embroidery of 1504 from
early 14th-century the chasuble in Kmita depicts
Gothic sculpture. the murder of Bishop Stani-
sław of Szczepanów in 1079.
Vistulanian Plate
This Romanesque Vestiges of the Piast
floor laid with Dynasty
plaster c.1170,
preserved in the The Piast dynasty witnessed the
collegiate church development of Romanesque
in Wiślica, depicts and early Gothic architecture.
a scene of Romanesque churches have
adoration. survived in Tum (see p235),
Czerwińsk (see p120) and Tyniec
(see p151). The abbeys in Sulejów,
Wąchock (see p158) and
Koprzywnica date from the 13th
century. Some of the Gothic
castles of Kazimierz the Great
can be seen in the Jura region –
for example at Będzin, Olsztyn
and Bobolice (see pp164–5).
Bolesław
the Bold
1226 Konrad
1370 Louis of
Mazowiecki invites
Hungary (Ludwik
the Teutonic Order
Węgierski) seizes
to Masovia The initials of Kazimierz the Polish crown
the Great on the door of
Coronation sword of Bolesław the Brave Wawel Cathedral
46 INTRODUCING POLAND
Second Treaty
of Toruń
Signed in 1466, the
treaty concluded the
Thirteen Years’ War
with the Teutonic
Knights, who lost
nearly half their
territory to Poland.
Virgin from
Krużlowa Gothic Architecture
This statue, of
Many late Gothic buildings have
around 1400, is a
survived in Poland. Among the
masterpiece of late
most important are the Collegium
Gothic sculpture.
Maius and the Barbican in Krakow
(see p139). After the formation of
Royal Prussia, many parish
Gothic Pax churches were built in the towns
The skill of medieval lying within its territory, the
goldsmiths can be largest being the Church of St
seen in this finely Mary in Gdańsk (see pp244–5).
crafted cross.
Battle of Grunwald
Deposition from
In one of the greatest medieval battles, on Chomranice
15 July 1410, Poland and Lithuania, with This Deposition of
their Ruthenian allies, routed the armies of Christ (c.1450) is
the Teutonic Knights, who never regained held to be the
their former might. The scene is depicted apogee of Polish
in this painting by Jan Matejko of 1878. Gothic art.
The so-called real union between Poland and Lithuania Feudal territories
was concluded in Lublin in 1569. At that time, in terms of
language, nationality and religion, the Republic was the
most diverse state in Europe. Nobleman
Representatives of who brought the
the peoples of the news of the
East and West Chancellor’s death
Opatów Lament
The Renaissance tomb of Chancellor
Krzysztof Szydłowiecki in the collegiate
Codex Behem
church at Opatów features a bas-relief
This illuminated
manuscript of 1505
sculpture depicting the mourning of the
by Baltazar Behem, a deceased, installed after 1532 (see p158).
writer and notary of Around the table are friends of the
Krakow, lists the city’s Chancellor, humanists attached to
privileges, statutes the royal court and foreigners.
and the guild laws.
16th-Century
Tomb of Stefan Batory Architecture
Despite his short
reign, Batory was The first instance of the
one of the most Renaissance style in Poland
illustrious of the dates from 1502. Often imitated
elective monarchs. but never equalled, the most
splendid early Renaissance
building was the Zygmunt
Union of Lublin Chapel in Wawel Cathedral
The federation of Poland and (see p149), completed in 1533.
Lithuania established under the
Union of Lublin in 1569 provided
for a joint Sejm (parliament), king
and foreign policy. However, each
country had its own government,
army, treasury and judiciary.
Zygmunt Vice-chancellor
the Old Piotr Tomicki
1557 Outbreak 1563 Split of Polish Calvinists and 1587 Zygmunt III
of the war with isolation of the Polish Brethren, an Vasa is elected king
Russia over extreme group of Reformationists of Poland
Livonia Grotesque mask
1564 Jesuits arrive from Baranów
in Poland Sandomierski
1560 1580 1600
Moat
Nobleman in a Dance
with Death
The figure of a
common Polish
yeoman in
traditional dress
decorates the
Chapel of the
Oleśnicki family
in Tarłów.
Krzyżtopór Castle
In the first half of the 17th century, dazzling residences were
built in the Republic of Two Nations. The most splendid was
the eccentric castle in Ujazd. Built at great expense, it stood
for barely 11 years. It was demolished in 1655 by the Swedes
and remains in ruins to this day (see p158).
1604 First Moscow 1606 Zebrzydowski 1629 Truce 1634 Władysław IV’s 1655
expedition of the Rebellion with Sweden victory over Russia, Beginning
false Demetrius in Altmark and peace in of the Swedish
Polanów Deluge
Baroque Monstrance
This monstrance, at Pelplin Cathedral 17th-Century
in Pomerania, dates from 1646. Architecture
Many magnificent buildings in
Shrine of St Stanisław the late Mannerist and early
Relics of the patron saint Baroque styles were erected in
of Poland are preserved the first half of the 17th century,
in a shrine that was during the reign of the Vasa
installed in Wawel dynasty. After the destruction
Cathedral wrought by the Swedish Deluge,
between 1626 there was no further artistic
and 1629. flowering until the reign of Jan III
Sobieski. The early Baroque castles
– for example, the Royal Castle in
Warsaw (see pp70–71) – as well as
numerous churches, of which the
The cloister walls most impressive are the Jesuit
around the courtyard are churches in Krakow, Warsaw and
painted with real and Poznań, are all splendid examples
legendary ancestors of of the architecture of this period.
the Ossoliński family.
Bastions
Husaria
The Royal Chapel (see p245) in
Charges by the famous
Gdańsk, commissioned by Jan III
Hussars, the best heavy cavalry
Sobieski, was built by Tylman van
in Europe, decided the outcome
Gameren and Andreas Schlüter
of many battles. Their greatest
in the Baroque style.
victory was against the Turks at
the Battle of Vienna (1683).
Pair of
1660 Peace treaty 1667 Turks invade 1686 Signing of
cherubs
signed in Oliwa the southeastern the Perpetual
ends the Polish- borderlands Peace with Russia
Swedish War
Rococo Statue
from Lvov
In southeastern
Poland, original
altar statues by
sculptors of the
Lvov School can
still be admired.
Rococo Secretaire
This desk incorporates
a clock cabinet and is
decorated with painted
panels depicting
mythological scenes. Portrait of Maria Leszczyńska
After the Polish king Stanisław
Leszczyński lost the throne, his
daughter Maria settled in Nancy
and married Louis XV of France.
August III
This Saxon king 18th-Century
of the Wettin Architecture
dynasty was
an ardent lover During the 18th century – the era
of porcelain. of the late Baroque and Rococo –
His likeness was artists and architects from Saxony
reproduced in joined those who had already
Meissen. come to Poland from Italy. Many
palaces, including Radziwiłł, were
built in Warsaw and the provinces,
such as Białystok (see p294).
Thanks to the patronage of
Tadeusz Kościuszko Stanisław August Poniatowski,
This man fought in the many Neo-Classical buildings
American War of were created, among them
Independence and led Łazienki in Warsaw.
the insurrection against
the Russians in 1794.
Hugo Kołłątaj Prince Józef
Poniatowski
Stanisław
Małachowski,
Speaker of
the Sejm
Constitution of 3 May
The Constitution of 3 May 1791 was a radical experiment
in democracy and reform – the first such in Europe. It was,
however, soon annulled as a result of the Federation of Hugo Kołłątaj
A leading intellectual of
Targowica and the Russo-Polish war. Jan Matejko’s
the Polish Enlightenment,
painting shows members of the Sejm (parliament)
Kołłątaj collaborated on
marching on Warsaw Cathedral to swear allegiance. the Constitution of 3 May.
1794 Insurrection
1764 Coronation 1773 Convocation 1795 Third
of Stanisław against the Russians Partition of
of National
August Education Coat of arms of Poland
Poniatowski Commission Stanisław August
Poniatowski
1760 1780 1800
1793 Second
1772 First 1788–1792 Partition of
1756 Outbreak
Partition of Deliberations of the Poland
of the Seven-
Poland Four-Year Sejm
Year War 1791 Adoption of the
Constitution of 3 May
54 INTRODUCING POLAND
Patrol of Insurgents
This painting by Maksymilian Gierymski of around 1873
shows a scene from the January Insurrection. Several
insurgents are patrolling the land.
Fryderyk Chopin
This genius of a The Great Emigration
composer and
pianist was born In the 30 years following the
in Żelazowa Wola November Insurrection, nearly
and left Poland 20,000 Poles left the country,
forever in 1830. the majority going to France.
An important group of émigrés
gathered around Prince Adam
Czartoryski in Paris. Famous Poles
in exile included the composer
Fryderyk Chopin and poets Adam
Mickiewicz, Zygmunt Krasiński,
Juliusz Słowacki and Cyprian
Stained-glass Window Kamil Norwid.
The stained-glass windows
designed by Stanisław Wyspiański
for the Franciscan Church in Krakow
are among the most beautiful works
of Secessionist art in Poland.
The inhabitants
of Krakow greet
the emperor
Prince Adam Czartoryski, an
exile in Paris, was considered
the uncrowned king of Poland.
1870 1895
1864 Final abolition 1915 Russian
of serfdom troops leave
Warsaw
1863 Start of the January
Insurrection
Secessionist
wall painting
56 INTRODUCING POLAND
Gdynia
Although Poland gained access to the sea, it had
no port. Work on the construction of a port at
Gdynia began in 1922.
Józef Piłsudski
Józef Piłsudski led the Warsaw Uprising
legions which were set
On 1 August 1944 the
up in the Austrian sector
underground Home Army
then dispersed. In 1918 he
(Armia Krajowa) launched an
became the first leader
uprising in Warsaw against the
of an independent Poland.
occupying Germans. Its aim was
to liberate the capital before the
arrival of the Red Army. The
Russians were waiting on the
left bank of the river, allowing
the Germans to suppress the
outburst. The uprising lasted
over two months and led to the
complete destruction of the
city as well as the loss of tens
of thousands of lives.
Bolshevik soldiers
flee the battlefield
Monument to Those Fallen and
Murdered in the East
Hanka Ordonówna This monument honours all the
She was one of the most popular Poles who were killed or deported
actresses between the wars. after the Soviet invasion in 1939.
Modern Poland
In 1945 the allies agreed that Poland should be
included in the Soviet zone of influence. The Big Three
(Britain, the USA and the Soviet Union) also decided to
alter Poland’s borders. After rigged elections in 1947,
the Communists took complete control. Despite
successes in rebuilding the country, the socialist
economy proved ineffective. The formation of
Solidarity (Solidarność) in 1980 accelerated the pace
of change, which was completed when Poland
regained its freedom after the 1989 elections.
1968 In March,
conflicts occur
between students
1966 and security forces.
Celebrations The authorities
marking the provoke incidents
millennium of of an anti-Semitic
Christianity and anti-intellectual
in Poland, nature
organized
1945 After the terrible
separately
devastation of the war, the
1955 30,000 delegates by Church
country is hauled out of the ruins
from 114 countries take and State
by the effort of the whole nation
part in the World Festival
1947 Communists falsify
of Youth in Warsaw. This
the results of elections to is the first time that the
the Sejm (parliament) Iron Curtain has been
briefly lifted
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975
1984
Assassination of
Father Jerzy 1997 On a visit to Warsaw, US president Bill
Popiełuszko, Clinton announces that Poland is to join NATO
Solidarity’s pastor
60 INTRODUCING POLAND
1279–1288
1288–1290 Henry IV, the
Leszek the
Good
Black
1290–1291
Przemysław II
1291–1305 Wacław
II of Bohemia (from
1300)
1305–1306
Wacław III of
1079–1102 Władysław Herman 1229–1232 and 1241–1243 Bohemia
Konrad I Mazowiecki
1058–1079 Bolesław II 1333–1370
1202 and 1228–
Kazimierz III,
1229 Władysław III,
1025–1034 Mieszko II the Great
Spindleshanks
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
Piast Dynasty Period of Disunity Jagiellonian
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
1102–1107
1031 Duke Zbigniew 1306–1333
Bezprym and Władysław I,
Bolesław III the Elbow-
1107–1138 High
Bolesław III
1370–1382 Louis of
Hungary
1138–1146
1384–1399
Władysław II, the
Jadwiga
Exile
1434–1444 Władysław III of
1146–1173 Varna
Bolesław IV,
1447–1492 Kazimierz IV,
the Curly
the Jagiellonian
1173–1177 and 1194–
1202 Mieszko III, the Elder 1492–1501 Jan I Olbracht
1926–1939 Ignacy
Mościcki
1648–1668 Jan II
Kazimierz Vasa 1918–1922
Józef Piłsudski,
1674–1696 Jan head of state
III Sobieski
2005–2010 Lech
1704–1709 and Kaczyński
1632–1648
1733–1736 Stanisław
Władysław IV
Leszczyński
Vasa 2010–
1733–1763 Bronisław
August III Komorowski
1697–1706
1669–1673
and 1709–
Michał
1733 August 1922–1926
Korybut
II, the Strong Stanisław
Wiśniowiecki
Wojciechowski
1947–1956
Bolesław Bierut
1587–1632
Zygmunt III 1989–1990
Vasa Wojciech
Jaruzelski
1995–2005
Aleksander
Kwaśniewski
Warsaw at a Glance
D Z IK
KI
STAW
M
A
UR
Most places of interest are located in the centre of NISKA A
NO
WS
KA
O
Warsaw. This area not only forms the geographical SK
IEG
KA R MEL IC KA
M IŁ A OW
RT
heart of the city, but is also Warsaw’s largest A
SA
W S
LE T.
DER
municipality. It is made up of seven smaller districts, D
U
ZAMENHOFA
BO
IS
N
KI
A A
Śródmieście being the central one. In the pages that
A
EW
ŁOW
AW
NAL
follow, however, Warsaw is divided into three parts: MO RD E C HA
WA
JA
YSŁ
AN IELE
W IC
ZA
the Old and New Towns, the Royal Route and the
AD
PAWI A ŚW
IĘT O
JE R S K A
.WŁ
City Centre. The most interesting historical features
GEN
of Warsaw are located along the Royal Route (Trakt OGRÓD
KARSIŃSKICH
NO W OL IP K I
Królewski), a series of roads linking the Old Town
(Stare Miasto) and the Royal Castle (Zamek
KA RMELI CKA
AL. JANA PAWLA II
Królewski) with the Water Palace (Łazienki) and
DŁU G A
Wilanów, the palace of Jan III Sobieski, which Ratusz
AL.
stands just outside the city. AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
BI
EL
AŃ
SK
A
PLAC
BANKOWY
SENATORSKA
EL E K TO R AL N A
P LA C
M I RO
WSKI
P TA
SIA
OGRÓD
SASKI
GR Z YBO WSKA
KRÓLEWSKA
ŁK O W S KA
The Old Town Square, surrounded by town houses ZI EL NA
PLAC P R ÓŻ NA
rebuilt after wartime destruction, is one of the most T WA R DA GRZYBOWSKI
PLAC HENRYKA
DÁBROWSKIEGO
beautiful features of Warsaw. It teems with tourists
M AR SZ A
J AS N A
Rondo Świętokrzyska
and local people throughout the year. A statue of ONZ ŚWIĘTO
KRZYS
the Mermaid, symbol of Warsaw, is a prominent KA
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Warsaw, despite the ongoing Centrum
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construction of skyscrapers in AL. JEROZ
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the city. The 30th floor has a E
viewing terrace as well as a
multimedia tourist centre.
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Chopin, the
MA
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died in France
WYB
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in 1849, is built
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into one of the
A
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Baroque pillars
RTOSZ
Uniwersytet
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Warszawa Poniatowskiego
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AL. Pedestrian street
CH. DE GAULLE’A JEROZ 3 M A JA
OLIMS
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Railway line
AC
AL . 3 M AJ
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KA
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National
SO
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Most K. J.
Museum
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Poniatowskiego
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KRZYŻY K S IĄ
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The National Museum contains
large collections of Polish art. Among
its treasures is Strange Garden (Dziwny
Ogród) by Józef Mehoffer.
For keys to symbols see back flap
WARSAW AREA BY AREA 67
Sights at a Glance
Churches Historic Buildings and
3 Cathedral of St John p72
Monuments
4 Jesuit Church 1 Zygmunt’s Column
5 Church of St Martin 2 Royal Castle pp70–71
8 Church of the Holy Spirit 7 The Barbican and City Walls
q Church of St Jacek 9 Raczyński Palace
r Church of St Kazimierz 0 Monument to the 1944
t Church of the Visitation Warsaw Uprising
of the Virgin Mary
Historic Streets and Squares
6 Old Town Square
w Ulica Freta
e New Town Square See also Street Finder,
maps 1 & 2
SZKI
SANGU
KONW IKTORS KA
FONDAMIŃ SKIEGO
WÓ JTO WSK A
ÓW
A
MS KA
SK
SAPIEŻYŃSKA
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OR
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MB
PR ZY RY
ZA KR OC ZY
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W YBR ZEŻ
KA
FRANCISZKAŃS
KOŻLA
NOW
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IN IA R
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NA
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0 metres 250
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ŚWIĘTOJERSKA
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0 yards 250
A
WA BOLEŚĆ
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DUN MIASTA
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PLAC
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Śląsko-
KA
O DZ Dąbrowski
GR
I
DARNOŚC
AL. SOLI
Warsaw’s 16th-century Barbican and city walls For keys to symbols see back flap
68 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
4 Jesuit Church
E
L
The Baroque-Mannerist
A
W
P
IE
Mercy, patron saint of
O
K
P
A
R
S
World War II.
K
A
ZA
PI
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1 Zygmunt’s Column
This is the oldest secular
monument in Warsaw.
A A
N K
S
IW Ń
P JA
O
P L AC T
ZAMKOWY IĘ
W
Ś
Vistula
CITY CENTRE
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 2
7 Barbican and City Walls
This brick building once protected
the northern approach to the city.
The Historical
Museum of
Warsaw occupies
the north side of
the market square.
J
NA
DU
W
Ą
KI
SK
ID
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O Statue of Zygmunt III Vasa at the top
U
N
SZ of Zygmunt’s Column
A
J
A
S
K 1 Zygmunt’s
J
IE Column
M
O
W
O Plac Zamkowy. Map 2 D3.
K
N
O
2 Royal Castle
The decision to build the Royal Castle (Zamek
Królewski) was made when Zygmunt III Vasa
moved the capital from Krakow to Warsaw in
1596. It was built in the early Baroque style by
the Italian architects Giovanni Trevano, Giacomo
Rodondo and Matteo Castelli between 1598 and
1619, incorporating the earlier castle of the
Mazovian princes. Successive rulers remodelled
the castle many times. The late Baroque façade
overlooking the River Vistula dates from the time . Ballroom
Decorated with 17 pairs of golden
of August III, and the splendid interiors from that columns, the ballroom is one of the
of Stanisław August. Completely destroyed by castle’s most elaborate interiors.
the Germans during World War II, the castle
was reconstructed from 1971 to 1988.
Royal Princes’
Rooms
Historical paintings
by Jan Matejko are
displayed here.
Senators’ Room
In this room, the
Constitution of 3 May was Main entrance
formally adopted in 1791.
The coats of arms of all the
administrative regions and
territories of the Republic
are depicted on the walls.
A reconstructed royal
throne is also on show.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Plac Zamkowy 4. Map 2 D3.
Tel 22 355 51 70. Reservations:
9am–2pm Tue–Fri (institutions
only). Fax: 22 355 51 27. Open
10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 11am–4pm
Sun. Royal and Grand
Apartments: Open 10am–6pm
daily (from 11am Mon & Sun).
Closed Oct–Apr: after 4pm &
Mon, 1 Jan, Easter Sat & Sun, 1
. Marble Room May, Corpus Christi, 1 Nov, 24, 25,
The interior dates from the time of Władysław IV. The 31 Dec. & (free on Sun except
magnificent portraits of Polish rulers by Marcello Royal and Grand Apartments).
Bacciarelli are the only later additions. 0 m 8 except Sun. No flash.
= d ∑ zamek-krolewski.pl
Transport
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 190, 222,
503. v 20, 23, 26.
Knights’ Hall
The finest piece
in this beautiful
interior is the Neo-
Classical sculpture
of Chronos by le
Brun and Monaldi.
Main
entrance
Małachowski
Family Tomb
Baryczkowski Crucifix This monument, carved
This crucifix, famed for its in white marble, is based
miraculous powers, dates on a design by the
from the start of the 16th Danish Neo-Classical
century and contains sculptor Bertel
natural human hair. Thorvaldsen.
THE OLD AND NEW TOWNS 73
New Town
The New Town took shape at the beginning of the
15th century along the route leading from Old
Warsaw to Zakroczym. Of interest here are the
Pauline, Franciscan, Dominican and Redemptorist
churches and the Church of the Holy Sacrament,
which were all rebuilt after World War II, and the
colourful reconstructed town houses. Ulica
Mostowa, the steepest street in Warsaw, leads
e . New Town Square
up to the fortress that defended one of the
A town hall once stood in the centre
longest bridges in 16th-century Europe. of this irregularly shaped square.
FRA
NCIS
ZK A
ŃS K
A
w Ulica Freta
This is the main thoroughfare in New
Town. Freta means an uncultivated field
or suburb. A
ET
FR
ŚW
D
ŁU
G A
A ET
FR
PO
DW
AL
M
E
O
S
T
O
W
A
A
q . Church of St Jacek R
A feature of the unusually TA
S
elongated interior is the
17th-century mausoleum
of the Kotowski family.
r . Church of St
Kazimierz
This beautiful church
is connected to the The Old Powder
Convent of the Order Magazine was once
of the Holy Sacrament. the bridge gate.
For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp310–11
THE OLD AND NEW TOWNS 75
8 Church of the
Holy Spirit
ul. Nowomiejska 23. Map 2 D2.
Tel 22 831 45 75. @ 116, 175, 178,
OLD AND 180, 222. Open 6–8am, 4–6pm Mon–
NEW TOWNS
Sat, 6:30am–2pm, 4–7:30pm Sun. At
CITY CENTRE
other times, on request.
t Church of the
Visitation of the
Virgin Mary
ul. Przyrynek 2. Map 2 D1. Tel 22 831
24 73. @ 116, 178, 180, 222, 503.
Sights at a Glance
Churches
1 Church of St Anne NO
WY ZD
KO ZIA
A
7 Church of the Holy Cross
Historic Buildings and
IE C
Monuments
E PRZEDMIEŚ
KARO
WA See also Street Finder
Vi
maps 2 & 4
B R O WA R N A
KAROWA
st
4 Namiestnikowski Palace
BRZ
ul
6 University of Warsaw
a
EŻE
KRAKOWSKI
t Parliament
USZ
OBOŹNA
DOBRA
TOP
WS
DY N A S Y
0 Nowy Świat Ś W IĘ
TOKR
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KIE
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e Plac Trzech Krzyży Nowy Świat- EW T
IC
Uniwersytet
OS
ZAJĘCZA
r Aleje Ujazdowskie
Z
ZA
W AR EC Most
KA
ORDY TA M ŚwIętokrzyski
I AT
NACK KA
Museums A TA M K A
S Z P I TA L N A
Centrum
ŚW
Ń-
GÓ RS KIE Nauki
q National Museum GO
GAŁCZY
SKIEGO
SO
KR U C
DOB
Kopernik
LEC
pp86–7
RA
ZKO
CHMI ELNA
w Polish Military Museum FOK SAL
NOWY
ZA
WS
AC
JAR
KI
Warszawa
EGO
SM OLN A Powiśle
RONDO
CH. DE Most
GAULLE’A AL. JER 3 MAJA
OZO LIMSKIE
K. J. Ponia-
towskiego
BRA
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AL . 3 MA
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TRZECH
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KRZYŻY IĄŻ
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K R U C ZK O W SK
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KRUC
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W ILC ZA PR U SA
OWS
A
WI EJS KA
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RĄ
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ST Ó W
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R O Z B R AT
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PIĘK ŚNIEGOCKIEJ
NA
0 metres 500
GÓR
NOŚ
0 yards 500 LĄSK
A
Łazienki Park, with Belvedere Palace in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
80 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
Krakowskie Przedmieście
5 Church of the
Krakowskie Przedmieście is undoubtedly one of Visitation
the most beautiful streets in Warsaw. Rebuilt after Also known as the
the war, the magnificent palaces that lie along it Church of St Joseph,
now generally house government departments. this is one of the
few churches in
There are also pleasant restaurants, bars and cafés. Warsaw that was
The street is lined with trees, green squares and not destroyed
little palaces with courtyards. On weekdays, during World War II.
Krakowskie Przedmieście is one of the liveliest Its interior features
are intact.
streets in Warsaw, as two great institutions of
higher education are situated here: the University
of Warsaw and the Academy of Fine Arts.
3 Carmelite Church
4 Namiestnikowski Palace
The Church of Our Lady This former palace, rebuilt in
of the Assumption and the Neo-Classical style for the
St Joseph the Bridegroom tsar’s governor in the Kingdom
has a splendid early Neo- of Poland, is now the
Classical façade crowned president’s residence.
with a green globe
representing
the earth. KA
RO
W
A
BE
TO
DN
KA
AR
IE
SK
RZE
SK
OSS
OW
A
AK
OLI
WS
KR
ŃSK
KIE
TR
ICH
GO
EM
BA
A
CK
DOW
A
ZI
KO
MIO
2 Statue of Adam
Mickiewicz
The unveiling of the
statue in 1898 was a
great manifestation
of patriotism.
1 . Church of St Anne
The Neo-Classical façade of the The Hotel Bristol, which overlooks the
church is reminiscent of the style Namiestnikowski Palace, is the most
of the 16th-century Italian luxurious, as well as the most expensive,
architect Andrea Palladio. hotel in Warsaw.
For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp310–11
T H E R OYA L R O U T E 81
1 Church of
CITY CENTRE
St Anne
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68.
Map 2 D3. Tel 22 826 89 91.
ROYAL ROUTE @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 195, 222, 503.
v 13, 20, 23, 26.
6 . University of Warsaw
The University of Warsaw is the
largest educational institution
in Poland. Only some of the
faculties are situated at its main Key
site on Krakowskie Przedmieście. Suggested route
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Crystalline vaulting in the cloister of the
Bernadine monastery
82 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
4 Namiestnikowski
2Statue of Adam
Mickiewicz Palace
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. Map 2 D4.
Map 2 D4. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 222,
503. Closed to the public.
This statue of Poland’s most
distinguished Romantic poet The palace owes its elegant Neo-
was unveiled in 1898, on the Classical form to refurbishment
centenary of his birth. Erecting carried out by Chrystian Piotr
the statue during the period Aigner in 1918–19. However, this
of intense Russification that work conceals much older walls,
followed the January as a palace stood on this site as
Insurrection of 1863 was a great early as the mid-17th century.
achievement on the part of the Namiestnikowski Palace was
committee in charge of the home to several prominent
project, led by Michał Radziwiłł familes, among them the
and Henryk Sienkiewicz. The The early Neo-Classical façade of the Koniecpolskis, the Lubomirskis
statue was designed by Cyprian Carmelite Church and, from 1685, the Radziwiłłs.
Godebski, and the plinth by From them the government
Józef Pius Dziekoński and many of its original features. of the Kingdom of Poland
Władysław Marconi. It was The main altar, with bought the palace in 1818
set up in a square off sculptures by Jan Jerzy as the residence of the
Krakowskie Przedmieście Plersch, is beautiful. Plersch governor-general of the tsarist
that was once lined with also carved the sculptural government. Among the
houses flanked by side group of the Visitation of the people who lived here were
streets. The houses were Virgin, a very sophisticated General Józef Zajączek, viceroy
later demolished and the and Romantic piece which of Tsar Alexander, and the
road widened. Only the was transferred from an much-hated General Iwan
statue of the Mother of earlier Dominican church Paskiewicz. The wife of General
God of Passau, dating from and can now be seen on Zajączek was a very colourful
1683, on the edge of the the altar near the rood arch. figure; she was a prima ballerina
square, survives. It was Also noteworthy are the and shocked the town with her
made in the workshop Baroque paintings, love affairs late into old age.
of Szymon Belloti to especially the two The palace escaped serious
a commission from small works in the damage during World War II.
Jan III Sobieski as an side altars near the After refurbishment, it was
offering in thanks chancel, by designated the seat of the
for a Polish victory Szymon Council of Ministers and
at the Battle of Statue of Adam Mickiewicz Czechowicz. witnessed many important
Vienna and for the During the political events: the signing
protection of the royal family. Great Northern War, in 1705, of the Warsaw Pact in 1955,
Stanisław Leszczyński held the treaty normalizing relations
peace negotiations with with Germany in 1970, and the
3 Carmelite Church Charles XII in the church. From Round Table Talks in 1989. Since
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54. 1864, after the closure of the 1994 the palace has been the
Map 2 D4. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, monastery, the monastic residence of the president of
222, 503. buildings housed a seminary. the Republic of Poland.
7 Church of the
Holy Cross
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3. Map 2
D5. Tel 22 556 88 20. @ 116, 175,
178, 180, 222, 503. q Nowy Świat–
Uniwersytet.
Baroque ebony tabernacle in the Church of the Visitation
e Plac Trzech
Krzyży
Map 3 C2, 3 C3. @ E-2, 108, 116, 118,
166, 171, 180, 222, 503.
q National Museum
The National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) was
originally the Museum of Fine Arts, acquiring its
present status in 1916. Despite wartime losses,
today it has a large collection of works of art
covering all periods from antiquity to modern
times. Due to lack of space, not all the exhibits
are on permanent display.
. Virgin and Child
This important painting
. St Anne Fresco by Sandro Botticelli is the
This fresco of St Anne only work by the artist in
is one of the 10th- Polish collections.
century wall paintings
discovered by Polish
archaeologists in
Faras, Sudan.
Battle of
Grunwald,
a painting by
Greek Vase Jan Matejko (see
Some of the Greek vases pp46–7), is the most
displayed in the Gallery famous in the Gallery
of Ancient Art are of Polish Art.
from a private
collection.
Key
Ancient Art
Faras Collection
Medieval Art
19th-century Art
20th- and 21st-century Art
15th- to 18th-century European
Paintings
Ground floor
15th- to 19th-century Polish
and European Portraits
Polish Decorative Art
European Decorative Art Virgin from Wrocław
L. Kronenberg Silver Room This “Beautiful Madonna” is an
early 15th-century sculpture
Temporary exhibitions
that exemplifies the
Non-exhibition areas International Gothic style.
For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp310–11
T H E R OYA L R O U T E 87
Transport
@ E-2, 111, 117, 158, 517, 521.
v 7, 8, 9, 22, 24, 25.
Furniture
This bedroom designed by Karol
Tichy in 1909 reflects the
Second floor utilitarian aspect of 20th-century
design. It is on display in the
Decorative Arts Gallery.
Banquet
The painter and mathematician Leon Chwistek
First floor developed a theory of “zonism”, according to
which various areas of a painting are dominated
by certain shapes and colours, as in this scene.
. Polish Hamlet
This portrait of the aristocrat and
politician Aleksander Wielopolski
painted by Jacek Malczewski in
1903, is in the style of the Polish
Symbolist school.
Gallery Guide
The collections are arranged on three floors. On the ground floor
are the Galleries of Ancient Art, the Faras Collection and the Gallery
of Medieval Art. On the first floor is the collection of Polish art.
Foreign paintings can be seen on the first and second floors.
WARSAW AREA BY AREA 89
Sights at a Glance
Places of Worship
3 Capuchin Church
DZIKA
UB
O- See also Street Finder
LE W A R T OI
S
DER
1 Primate’s Palace
A
maps 1, 2 & 3
ŁOW
I
2 Branicki Palace
AN
WK
Z A M E N H O FA
NAL E
WA
AN IE L E W I C Z A
4 Pac Palace
B O N I F R AT
AL. JANA
A
AW
6 Arsenal DZIELNA
ERSK
ŁAD
KARMELICKA
7 Przebendowski-Radziwiłłów
NOWO LIPKI
A
Palace
GEN.W
OGRÓD
BOHATERÓW
KRASIŃSKICH
r Palace of Culture and Science
PAW L A I I
GETTA
Monuments and
DŁUGA
MI
Commemorative Sites
OD
Ratusz
u Umschlagplatz Monument
OW
AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
A
PLAC
L
ORLA
SENATORSKA PLAC
TEATRALNY
and Murdered in the East ELEK TORA LNA
IA -
DN CHO
PLAC M
AL. J
IROWSK
PR
I
8 Plac Bankowy PTAS
IA
9 Plac Teatralny
ANA
OGRÓD
SASKI
PLAC
Parks MARSZALKA
PILSUDSKIEGO
PA W L
GRZYBO WSKA
0 Saxon Gardens KRÓLEWSKA
PLAC
GRZYBOWSKI
Museums and Galleries
A
ZIEL NA
KA
PRÓŻNA
KREDYTOWA
IE C
TWARDA
q Zachęta
II
ZOW
Rondo
K IE G
ONZ ŚWIĘTO
MA
PLAC
o Museum of the History ŚLISKA POWSTAŃCÓW
MO NIU SZ WARSZAWY
SKA
of Polish Jews KI
AT TE R
JAS NA
AŁKOW
EM ILI I PL
PLAC
DEFILAD ZŁOTA
SZPITALNA
ZG
0 metres 500
MARSZ
OD
CHMIELNA
A
The Palace of Culture and Science, the tallest building in Poland For keys to symbols see back flap
90 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
Ulica Miodowa
Ulica Miodowa lies just outside the much-visited Old Town.
Tourists rarely venture here, but it holds many attractions
nonetheless. The street has three Baroque churches and
several palaces – including the Neo-Classical Primate’s Palace
and the Rococo Branicki Palace – set behind spacious
courtyards. The former Collegium Nobilium, the most famous
Polish school for the children of the nobility in the 18th
century, now houses the Academy of Dramatic Arts. The Basilian church is hidden
behind the palace façade.
Byzantine-Ukrainian masses
are celebrated here.
S
C
H
IL
L
E
R
A
4 . Pac Palace
The 19th-century interiors
are decorated in the Gothic,
Renaissance, Greek and
Moorish styles.
Nike
A L . S
Monument
O L I D
A
W
A R N O
O
D
IO
Ś C I
K
A
P
IT
U
L
N
A
3 . Capuchin Church
In accordance with the rule
of poverty of the Capuchin
order, the altars in this
church have no gilt or
S
polychrome decoration. E
N
A
A
W
T
O
O
R
S
D
K
IO
A
M
2 Branicki
Palace
Rebuilt after World War
II, the palace was crowned
with sculptures derived from
paintings by Canaletto.
For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp310–11
THE CITY CENTRE 91
CITY CENTRE
ROYAL ROUTE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
2 Branicki Palace
The Field Cathedral of the ul. Miodowa 6. Map 2 D3. @ 116,
Polish Armed Forces was 180, 195. Closed to the public.
built in the 17th century as
a church for the Piarist order. Branicki Palace (Pałac
Branickich) was built for Jan
Klemens Branicki, adviser to
Key August III. This powerful
magnate was known both as
Suggested route
a distinguished soldier and a
connoisseur of fine art. Work
began on the palace in 1740,
0 metres 50
to a design by Jan Zygmunt
0 yards 50 Deybel, and was completed Sarcophagus with the heart of Jan III Sobieski
by Giacopo Fontana. in the Capuchin Church
92 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
4 Pac Palace
ul. Miodowa 15. Map 1 C3. Tel 22 634
96 00. @ 116, 175, 180, 195.
Open occasionally.
8 Plac Bankowy
Map 1 B3 and 1 B4. @ E-2, 107, 111,
127, 171, 180, 512. v 13, 18, 20, 23,
26, 35. q Ratusz. John Paul II
Collection: pl. Bankowy 1. Tel 22 620
27 25. Open 10am–5pm (4pm in
winter) Tue–Sun. &
r Palace of Culture
and Science
pl. Defilad 1. Map 3 A1, 3 B1.
Tel 22 656 76 00. @ 109, 117, 127,
128, 131, 158, 160, 171, 175, 227, 501,
504, 507, 517, 519, 521, 522, 525.
v 4, 7, 8, 9, 15, 17, 22, 24, 25, 35.
q Centre (Centrum). Viewing
platform: Open 10am–6pm daily.
& e m ∑ pkin.pl
y Pawiak Prison
ul. Dzielna 24/26. Map 1 A2. Tel 22
831 13 17. @ 107, 111, 180. v 15,
18, 33, 35. Open 9:30am–5pm Wed–
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 7
=m
Further Afield
There are many places of interest outside the centre of
Warsaw. The most important lie along the Royal Route
stretching from the Royal Castle in the north to Wilanów
in the south, and also on the edges of the escarpment that
runs down to the left bank of the River Vistula; here there
are several country mansions with extensive parks. Most
Grave of Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Church
can be reached by tram or by bus.
of St Stanisław Kostka
7
63
Poznań 5 Królikarnia Palace
629
6 Church of St Anthony
Brest
7 Warsaw Rising Museum
Poznań V is tu la 8 Wilanów Palace
9
71
Łódź
631
Key
80
1
City centre
Łódź
72
Main road
4
79
Other road
7
Lublin
8
3 Łazienki Park
Łazienki Park is part of a great complex of heritage gardens.
In the 17th century there was a royal menagerie along the
foot of the escarpment. In 1674, Grand Crown Marshal
Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski acquired the park and,
engaging the services of Tylman van Gameren, he altered
the southern part of the menagerie, building a hermitage
and a bathing pavilion on an island. The pavilion gave the
park its name (Łazienki meaning “baths”). In the second Peacock
half of the 18th century, the park was owned by Stanisław Just as in Stanisław August
August Poniatowski, who commissioned Karol Ludwik Poniatowski’s time, visitors to
Łazienki Park can admire the
Agricola, Karol Schultz and later Jan Christian Schuch to peacocks and take a boat ride
lay it out as a formal garden. Lubomirski’s baths were on the lake, which is full of carp.
refashioned into a royal residence, Łazienki Palace, or
Palace on the Water, which is now a museum.
Old Orangery
In 1774–8, Dominik Merlini created the
Stanisławowski Theatre in the Old Orangery.
It is one of the few remaining 18th-century
court theatres in the world.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Monument to Chopin
This Secessionist monument
was sculpted in 1908 by
Wacław Szymanowski but
not unveiled until 1926.
Positioned at the side of a
lake, it depicts Poland’s most
celebrated composer sitting
under a willow tree, seeking
inspiration from nature.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Łazienki Królewskie, ul. Agrykola 1.
Map 3 C5. Tel 22 506 01 01.
Park: Open daily until dusk.
Palace on the Water: Open
9am–6pm Tue–Sun. & (free on
Thu). Myślewicki Palace: Open
11am–4pm Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–
Sun. & Old Orangery: Open as
Myślewicki Palace. & (free Thu).
. Palace on the Water 8 ∑ lazienki-krolewskie.pl
Stanisław Lubomirski’s 17th-century baths were
converted (1772–93) into the Palace on the Water, Transport
@ 108, 116, 138, 166, 180,
Stanisław August Poniatowski’s summer home.
187, 503.
Myślewicki Palace
Dominik Merlini designed the early Neo-Classical
Myślewicki Palace in 1775–84 for Stanisław August
Poniatowski’s nephew, Prince Józef Poniatowski.
New Orangery
This building in cast
iron and glass was
designed by Józef
Orłowski and Adam
Loewe in 1860–61.
102 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
8 Wilanów Palace
The small Chinese
Wilanów Palace was built at the end Pavilion stands in
of the 17th century as the summer the English-style
residence of Jan III Sobieski. This garden on the north
side of the palace.
illustrious monarch, who valued family
life as much as material splendour,
commissioned Augustyn Locci to
build a modest country house. Later
the palace was extended and adorned
by renowned architects and artists
including Andreas Schlüter and
Michelangelo Palloni.
Great Crimson
Room
Originally a three-
room apartment,
the Great Crimson
Room was
reconstructed in
1900 to house the
museum’s array of
foreign paintings.
Main Gateway
Dating from the time of Jan III Sobieski,
the Main Gateway is crowned with
allegorical figures of War and Peace.
. Poster Museum
A former riding school rebuilt in the 1960s
now houses the Poster Museum, the first
of its kind in Europe.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
ul. SK Potockiego 10/16. Tel 22
544 27 00. Palace: Open 9:30am–
4pm Mon–Sat (6pm Mon & Sat,
8pm Wed), 10:30am–6pm Sun;
Oct–Apr: closes at 4pm. Closed
Jan, Tue (Oct–Apr). & (free Sun).
Park: Open 9am–dusk. & 8
m=-^d
∑ wilanow-palac.art.pl
. Rose Garden
This section of Wilanów’s garden was created in Transport
@ E-2, 116, 164, 180, 317, 379,
the 19th century to the south of the palace.
519, 700, 710, 724, 725, 742.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
. Queen’s
Antechamber
The walls are
covered with original
Baroque fabric while
the ceiling has alle-
gorical paintings.
King’s Bedchamber
The bed canopy is made of
fabric brought back by Jan
III Sobieski from his victory
against the Turks at the
Battle of Vienna in 1683.
104 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
WARSAW S T RE E T FI NDER
The coordinates given alongside the following number are grid references.
names of buildings and attractions in On the plan opposite, Warsaw is divided
Warsaw refer to the street plan on into four sectors corresponding to the four
pages 106–9. Map coordinates are also maps on pages 106–9. The symbols that
given alongside information about appear on the maps are explained in the
Warsaw hotels (see p302) and restaurants key below. The plan of the city identifies
(see pp310–11). The first digit indicates the the most important monuments and
relevant map number; the letter and places of interest.
Key
Major sight
Place of interest
Other building
Railway station
Tram stop
Metro station
Tourist information
Hospital or first aid
Police station
Church
Summer café garden in the Old Town
Railway line
Pedestrianized street
0 yards 250
STAWKI MU
RA
NO
WS
KA
SA
ND ER
II
MO R D E C H A JA
WA A
ANIE L EW I C ZA
PAW ŁA
Old and
A
AD Y S Ł New Towns
GEN. WŁ
JAN A
AL .
ŚCI
AL. SOL IDA RNO
The City
Vis
Centre
CIE
tul
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a
DM
RZ E
KI E P
KRÓ LEWSKA
OW S
KR AK
The
Royal Route
AL.J ERO ZOLI MSK
IE
AL. JERO ZOLI MSK
IE
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G
IE
SK
K R U C ZKO W
A
SK
W
TO
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OK
M
R O Z B R AT
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
D Z IK
Umschlagplatz ARK
Monument MIĘ D Z Y P
STA WK I
A
STAWK I
NISKA
NISKA Monument to those Fallen
and Murdered in the East
G O M
BO NI FR AT
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WS
KA
W
KARMELIC KA
MIŁ A O
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MIŁA
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SA
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DER
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Monument to
N
the Heroes of
A A
the Ghetto
Museum of the History
A
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of Polish Jews
AW
FRANC ISZKA ŃSKA
NAL EWK I
WA
N O W IN
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Pawiak PAW IA
A
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Prison
ŚWIĘTOJE RSKA
DZIELNA DZIELNA PLAC
KRASIŃSKICH
GEN
Krasiński
Palace Monument
OGRÓD to the 1944
KRASIŃSKICH Warsaw Uprising
NOW OLI PKI
NOW OLI PKI
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BOHATERÓ W GETTA
Field Cathedral
KARMEL ICKA
A
UG
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RA
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Pac
Palace
Capuchin
Ratusz
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WS
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Monument
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Municipal CORAZZIEGO I
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PR
Government Building OW
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Hotel
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Church
ZE
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PR
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K RO CH
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PLAC
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the Unknown
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Mercure Zachęta SQUARE
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MARSZAŁKO
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TWARD A GRZYBOWSKI Pasta KREDYTOW A TR A U G
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NO Museum
DĄBROWSKIEGO
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WYBRZE
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NOWEGO
MIASTA Church
F R E TA
of St Kazimierz
Marie Curie
Museum Old gunpowder
ŻE
STAR A
Church magazine
of St Jacek
Church of the BOLEŚĆ
O WA
Holy Spirit MOST
HELSKIE
NO Barbican
GA
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KIL
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Palace R AT U
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PODW A
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ZAP
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ŚW IĘ
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P IW
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KA
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ITU
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Ń SK A
Zygmunt
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Palace Castle
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DO
PLAC
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Palace of St Anne ZD
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FU RM
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SZC
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Hotel
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Church of the
Visitation
MARKIEWICZ
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BR
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National MO NIU SZK I
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Hall Bank of
Holiday Inn Poland
A
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ŁKOWSK
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POLAND
REGION BY
REGION
Szczecin
Piła Bydgoszcz
Toruń
Gorzów Wlkp.
Włocławek
Poznań
Many of the attractive sandy Rogalin
beaches (see p265) on the Baltic Zielona
Góra WIELKOPOLSKA
Sea are backed by cliffs, which are (GREATER POLAND)
vulnerable to storm damage. (See pp212–35)
Łódź
SILESIA
(See pp180–211)
Wrocław
Częstochowa
Opole
Białystok
WARSAW
(See pp62–109)
Rzeszów
KRAKOW
(See pp132–51)
Krasiczyn
For centuries, Mazovia was, both culturally politically active yet conservative petty
and economically, one of the least yeoman-gentry. Even today, in the east of
developed areas of the ethnically Polish the region and in Podlasie, farmsteads,
lands of the Commonwealth of Two with humble cottages built in the style
Nations. In the early Middle Ages it was of mansions, can be seen. Apart from
the homeland of the Mazowie tribe. It was Warsaw, the towns of Mazovia have
united with the state of the Polanie under always been modest, and this is evident
Prince Mieszko I (963–92). The Principality even today in more recent buildings and
of Mazovia came into existence in 1138, modern urban planning.
during the division of Poland, and it After the Congress of Vienna (1815),
preserved its independence for nearly 400 Mazovia and the Lublin region formed
years. Mazovia was incorporated into the part of the Congress Kingdom, under
Kingdom of Poland in 1526 after the death Russian rule. In 1918, the whole area
of the last Mazovian princes, and in 1596, was returned to the reborn Poland.
Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital of The Lublin area differs considerably
the Commonwealth of Two Nations from from Mazovia, in both landscape and
Krakow to Warsaw, in Mazovia. culture. Its architectural jewel is the
Mazovia’s cultural distinctiveness has delightful town of Kazimierz Dolny,
been influenced by the presence of a on the banks of the Vistula.
Or
landscape. The gorge of the Vistula, around the town Mława yc
z
of Kazimierz Dolny, is one of the region’s most
Przasnysz
beautiful sights. Roztocze and Zamość, widely
ra
described as the “pearl of the Renaissance”, Wk
Toruń OPINOGÓRA
are also very picturesque. Mazovia has CIECHANÓW Róźan
ruins of brick-built castles, and in both
Raciąź Narew
regions there are many country
Wk
mansions. Żelazowa Wola is W hit e
ra
PUŁTUSK Fores t
Fryderyk Chopin’s birthplace and Płońsk
Wyszków
nearby Łowicz is a well-known
centre of folklore. Łąck
PŁOCK MA ZO W I E C K I E
Vist Serock
ul
a CZERWIŃSK
Kutno
Wyszogród Legionowo
Kampinoska Forest
Wołomin
Brochów ŻELAZOWA
WOLA WARSAW
Sochaczew
ŁOWICZ Piaseczno
Łódź
NIEBORÓW Zyrardów
ARKADIA Góra
Kalwaria
Skierniewice
Grójec
CZERSK
The house of the novelist Stefan Żeromski Rawa
Mazowiecka Warka
(1864–1925) in Nałęczów
ca
Mogielnica i
Pil
Kozienice
Sights at a Glance Nowe Miasto
Częstochowa nad Pilicą
1 Płock
2 Ciechanów
3 Opinogóra
Przysucha RADOM
4 Pułtusk
5 Czerwińsk on the Vistula Chlewiska Oroʼnsk
6 Żelazowa Wola
7 Łowicz SZYDŁOWIEC
8 Arkadia
IŁŻA
9 Nieborów
0 Treblinka
q Węgrów
w Czersk
e Radom
r Szydłowiec
t Iłża
u Kazimierz Dolny
i Lublin pp126–7
o Kozłówka
p Radzyń Podlaski
a Chełm
s Zamość pp130–31
Tours
y A Tour around
Kazimierz Dolny Landscape of Roztocze, in the Lublin uplands
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 117
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Ostrołęka Regional border
Białystok
Getting Around
Stara Wieś Warsaw, the chief city of Mazovia, has regular air
WĘGRÓW links to major cities worldwide and to principal
Liw towns in Poland. All the larger towns in both
regions have rail links. Travelling by
Kałuszyn Łosice express from Warsaw to Lublin
Siedlce Kobrin takes a little over two hours. All
Mińsk places recommended in this
Mazowiecki
Biała guidebook are accessible by
Podlaska
bus. However, many of the
smaller ones are more easily
Łuków Międzyrzec
Garwolin Podlaski reached by car. Highway E30
crosses Mazovia from east
Żelechów to west. From Warsaw, take
RADZYŃ highway E77 for Radom and
PODLASKI
highway 17 for Lublin.
Kock
Deblin L UB E LS K I E
A TOUR AROUND Włodawa
KAZIMIERZ DÓLNY Polesian
Lubartów
National
Park 0 kilometres 25
Zwoleń Puławy KOZŁÓWKA
0 miles 25
Janowiec Nałęczów
KAZIMIERZ Łęczna
DOLNY LUBLIN
CHEŁM
Krasnystaw
Kraśnik Wy ż y n a
Lubelska
Kielce Hrubieszów
Janów Szczebrzeszyn
Lubelski ZAMOŚĆ
Frampol
Rzesów Biłgoraj
Tomaszów
Lubelski
Tanew
Lviv
Environs
A few miles west of Czerwińsk
is the poor but nonetheless
charming little town of
Wyszogród, overlooking the
Vistula. In the Middle Ages it
had a castle (demolished at the
end of the 18th century) and
was the seat of a castellany.
Evidence of the town’s past
glory survives in the church
and partially preserved former
Franciscan friary, founded in
1406 and rebuilt several times
in the 17th and 18th centuries.
There is also a Baroque parish
church dating from 1779–89. The manor in Żelazowa Wola, birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 121
Environs
At Liw, 6 km (4 miles) west of
Węgrów, are the remains of a
Gothic castle erected in the
15th century. The castle was
surrounded by marshes, and
the gates could be reached only
by a causeway. It was twice
stormed by Swedes in the 17th
century. In 1782, a small house
was erected on the rubble for
the county chancellery. Today
it houses a Museum of Arms
(Muzeum Zbrojownia), which
Monument to the victims of the death camps at Treblinka besides a display of weaponry
contains portraits by the
0 Treblinka q Węgrów 18th-century Sarmatian School.
Road map F3. * 270. £ @ Road map F3. * 12,600. @ In Stara Wieś to the north
is the palace of the Krasiński-
In 1941, the Nazis established a Węgrów is a small town situated Golicyny family, which has
labour camp, Treblinka I, and in on the historical boundary the finest examples in Poland
1942 a death camp, Treblinka II. between Mazovia and Podlasie. of interiors in the English
Around 800,000 people, mainly Its large, rectangular Gothic style.
Jews from liquidated ghettos, marketplace is distinguished by
were murdered here. Those the Gothic-Baroque parish E Museum of Arms
brought to Treblinka II were church, dating from 1703–6. Liw, ul. Batorego 2. Tel 25 792 57 17.
taken off the trains and Its interior is decorated Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 11am–
herded, without even with paintings by 4pm Sun & public hols (May–Sep:
being registered, to the Michelangelo Palloni 11am–6pm Sat & Sun). & 8
gas chambers. Up until and fine Baroque
March 1943, the victims images. The
were buried in mass sacristry contains a
w Czersk
graves. After March 1943, mirror with a Latin Road map E4. * 400. @
the graves were dug up inscription indicating
and the bodies burned. that the legendary Pan Today, Czersk is no more than
Thereafter all bodies were Twardowski – the Polish a small village; in the distant
burned. In November Faust, who reputedly past it was the capital of
1943, Treblinka II was flew to the moon on Mazovia. By 1413 – most
closed and the ground Armour, Museum of the back of a cockerel – probably due to a change
ploughed over and Arms, Liw used it in his practice of in the course of the Vistula,
seeded. Today, the the black arts. Nearby which had suddenly moved
Treblinka Museum of Struggle stands a somewhat neglected away from Czersk – that role
and Martyrdom stands as a post-Reformation church, had passed to Warsaw. The
reminder of the past. dating from 1693–1706. Inside spectacular ruins of the
In 1964, two monuments is an impressive Baroque princely castle tower over
were erected on the site of monument to the founder, the Vistula. The road to the
the camp. The monument at Jan Bonawentura Krasiński, fortress crosses a bridge over
Treblinka II spreads over 13 ha depicting the moat. Here, three high
(30 acres). It gives an impression Chronos and a towers still stand. In the 12th
of “hundreds of thousands of female figure century, Prince Konrad
human beings, coming from pointing to Mazowiecki used one of its
nowhere, in a spectral the spot dungeons to imprison the
pilgrimage, going to their where small boy who later became
deaths”. It is the work of the Krasiński is Prince Bolesław the Shy of
architect Adam Haupt and the buried. Krakow, and Prince Henryk
sculptors Franciszek Duszenko the Bearded of Wrocław.
and Franciszek Strynkiewicz.
E Treblinka Museum of
Struggle and Martyrdom
Kosów Lacki 76. Tel 25 781
16 58. Open 9am–6:30pm daily
(Nov–Mar: to 4pm). & 8
∑ treblinka-muzeum.eu Ruins of the castle at Czersk
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 123
Lublin
Radom Zwoleń
Ple
wk
J
a J
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
8 Czarnolas
This was the home of Jan Kochanowski 1 Janowiec
(1530–84), the greatest poet of the The extensive ruins of the castle that was built for
Polish Renaissance. Little is left of his the Firlej family in the 16th century now house a
wooden manor, and the museum museum. It includes a small skansen where several
devoted to the poet’s life and work is wooden buildings, including an 18th-century
housed in the 19th-century mansion. manor and storehouse, have been re-erected.
5 Puławy 4 Bochotnica
The former residence of the In this hamlet stand the
Czartoryski family is set in a large ruins of a 14th-century
landscaped park, now sadly neg- castle that, according to
lected. Many small ornamental legend, Kazimierz the
buildings, such as the Temple of Great (1333–70) built for
the Sybil and the Gothic House, Esterka, the beautiful
are to be seen here. Jewish girl who became St Christopher, House of Krzysztof Przybyła,
his mistress. Kazimierz Dolny
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map F4. * 343,000. n ul.
Jezuicka 1–3 (81 532 44 12). _
Lublin Folklore Meetings (Jul);
Oldest Songs of Europe Interna-
tional Festival (Oct). ∑ lublin.pl
Transport
£ for information call
19436. @
Neo-Gothic façade of Lublin Castle
Central Lublin
1 Capuchin Church 5 Market Square
2 Church of Our Lady Victorious 6 Town hall
3 Krakow Gate 7 Dominican Church
4 Lublin Cathedral 8 Lublin Castle
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IC
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RU
NA For keys to symbols see back flap
128 POLAND REGION BY REGION
o Kozłówka Palace
Road map F4. * 800. @
s Zamość
Zamość is one of the best- preserved Renaissance towns in
Europe. It was one of the first to be planned and built from
scratch according to Italian concepts of the ideal town. The
moving force behind this project was Jan Zamoyski (1541–
1605), chancellor and commander-in-chief of the Crown, one
of the most powerful and enlightened magnates of Poland’s
Golden Age, and the owner of Zamość. Bernardo Morando
was the architect and work began in 1581, continuing for
more than ten years. A programme of restoration was carried
out in the 1970s, and in 1992 UNESCO declared the town a . Town Hall
With its fine ornamental tower
World Heritage Site. Today, theatrical performances and many and imposing fan staircase,
other cultural events take place in the Main Square. the Town Hall is the focal point
of Zamość.
. Cathedral
The cathedral, designed by
Bernardo Morando in 1587, was
completed in the 1630s. It was
rebuilt in 1824–6. It has an
unusual Mannerist façade and
distinctively decorated vaulting.
Arsenal
The Arsenal, closely connected
with the town’s formidable
fortifications, is today the
Polish Army Museum.
KEY
Bastion Fortifications
The fortifications
around Zamość
allowed the town to
resist a Cossack siege
as well as the Swedish
Deluge of the 1650s.
KRAKOW
Krakow is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Over
the centuries, many important artists and architects came
to work here, among them Veit Stoss from Germany,
Bartolomeo Berrecci and Giovanni Maria Padovano from
Italy, and Tylman van Gameren from Holland. Krakow has
been spared major destruction, so it preserves the largest
assemblage of historic buildings and monuments in Poland.
The earliest mention of Krakow in the Renaissance. The Wawel Royal Castle, the
historical records dates from the middle Cloth Hall in the Main Market Square,
of the 10th century; it had certainly been and many private houses and mansions
incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in the city were rebuilt in the Renaissance
before 992. In 1000 it became a see, and style. Krakow gradually lost its significance,
around 1038 it assumed the importance and in 1596 the capital was moved to
of a capital. Wawel Hill became the seat of Warsaw, but it was in Wawel Cathedral
government, and from 1257, when that successive kings of Poland were
Bolesław the Chaste gave the city a crowned and entombed, and the city
municipal charter, it began to spread and continued to acquire many magnificent
flourish at the foot of the hill. In 1364 the buildings. Under the Partition of Poland
Krakow Academy was founded, increasing (see pp52–5), Krakow came under Austrian
the city’s importance on the European rule, which nevertheless permitted a
stage. During the 14th and 15th centuries, relatively large degree of local autonomy.
large sums of money were spent on the Hence it began to assume the role of the
development of the city, as can be seen from spiritual capital of all Poles, both in their
the numerous Gothic churches and secular native country and abroad. Krakow
buildings that survive to this day. escaped significant damage during the
At the beginning of the 16th century, two World Wars, and in 1978 UNESCO
Krakow came under the influence of the declared it a World Heritage Site.
Memorial to Adam Mickiewicz, Poland’s national poet, outside the Cloth Hall in the Main Market Square
A cupola of the Gothic Cathedral on the Wawel
134 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Exploring Krakow
As most places of interest in Krakow are located in its fairly compact
historic centre, the city is best seen on foot. A good place to start is
Wawel Hill (Wzgórze Wawelskie), with its imposing Wawel Royal
Castle and Gothic cathedral, in the crypt of which many kings of
Poland are interred. North of Wawel Hill lies the old city of Krakow
GO
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with its attractive market, the Church of St Mary, the picturesque
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A Getting Around
P IE K
Krakow has an international airport
A
S K
A W
I Ń and is an important point on the
S K
railway network. By car, it can be
reached by motorway from Katowice
or rapid transit route from Warsaw.
For keys to symbols see back flap
136 POLAND REGION BY REGION
4 Rynek
FLO
Underground
RIA
ŚW
ŃS
. JA
KA
SŁA
NA
WK
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1. Cloth Hall
This beautiful Renaissance
SKA
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3 Church of
St Mary
See pp138–9.
4 Rynek
Underground
0 metres 50 Rynek Główny 1. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–10pm daily (to 8pm Mon, to
0 yards 50
4pm Tue); Nov–Mar: 10am–8pm daily
(to 4pm Tue). Closed 1st Tue of Shrine of St Jack in the
month. & (free on Tue). 9 Dominican church
138 POLAND REGION BY REGION
3 Church of St Mary
The imposing Church of St Mary (Kościół . Crucifix
The large sandstone
Mariacki) was built by the citizens of Krakow
crucifix by Veit Stoss
to rival the Royal Cathedral on Wawel Hill. is a fine example of
Building began in 1355, but work on the 15th-century
vaulting and the chapels continued until sculpture.
the mid-15th century, and the lower
tower was not completed until the
early 16th. At this time, sermons were
preached in German. This great basilica,
with its rows of side chapels, contains
an exceptional number of important
works of art.
Hejnał Tower
The famous trumpet call –
the Hejnał – is sounded
hourly from the tower.
The call is unfinished, in
memory of a medieval
trumpeter, shot while
sounding the alarm.
The Hejnał is
broadcast live by
Polish radio daily
at noon.
Main
entrance
Ciborium
Baroque Porch This large ciborium, in the
This pentagonal porch was built form of a Renaissance church,
in the mid-18th century to a was made by Giovanni Maria
design by Francesco Placidi. Padovano in about 1552.
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp313–14
KRAKOW 139
q Piarist Church
ul. Pijarska 2. Tel 12 422 22 55. @ 124,
152, 502. v 2, 4, 7, 14, 18, 19. Open
during services only.
The Wawel
On the Wawel, the Vistulanians built a
citadel. It was replaced by a series of
buildings, including the Renaissance castle
and Gothic cathedral that stand there
today. Once the site of coronations and
h . Wawel Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski)
royal burials, the Royal Cathedral is The Wawel Royal Castle, once home to the Jagiellonian
regarded by Poles as a spiritual shrine. kings, has survived without major damage. It incorporates
The Wawel Royal Castle beside it, once the walls of older Gothic buildings.
the hub of cultural and political life in
Poland, is a symbol of national identity.
j . Cathedral
The Gothic cathedral, lined
with royal burial chapels
from different ages, has
some extraordinarily
valuable furnishings.
f Cathedral Museum
Important artifacts from the
cathedral treasury are on display
here, including the magnificent
robe of Stanisław August
Poniatowski (1764–95).
Key
Visitor Centre
Suggested route
d Fortifications on
the Wawel
Wawel. v 6, 8, 10, 13, 18.
Sandomierska Tower Open May–Sep:
daily; Oct: Sat & Sun. &
Senators’
Staircase
1st floor
Castle Guide
The area open to visitors consists of part of the
ground floor of the Royal Castle, where items from
the Royal Treasury and Royal Armoury are displayed,
as well as the halls on the first and second floors of
the east and north wings. The castle’s Oriental
collection fills the first floor of the west wing.
Key
Royal Apartments
Royal Treasury
Royal Armoury Entrance to Royal
Oriental Collection Treasury and Royal
Non-exhibition space Entrance to courtyard Armoury
Audience
hall stairs
Ground floor
Bedchamber
The bedchamber is adorned with Italian paintings of
the 14th and 15th centuries donated by Countess
Karolina Lanckorońska. They include the enchanting
Entrance to State Angel by Simone Martini.
Rooms and Royal
Apartments
j The Cathedral
The Cathedral of Saints Stanisław and
Wacław, which stands on the Wawel in
Krakow, is one of the most important
churches in Poland. Before the present
cathedral was erected (1320–64), two earlier
churches stood on the site. The cathedral
has many fine features, including a series
of chapels founded by rulers and bishops,
the most beautiful being the Renaissance
Zygmunt Chapel. There are royal tombs
in both the cathedral and the Crypt of
St Leonard, a remnant of the Romanesque
Cathedral of St Wacław begun in 1038.
Zygmunt Bell
This is the largest
bell in Poland. It
was made in
1520, weighs
almost 11 tonnes
and has a diameter
of over 2 m (6 ft).
Main entrance
Shrine of St Stanisław
The silver coffin
containing the relics of
KEY St Stanisław, the bishop
of Krakow to whom the
1 The top of the clock tower is cathedral is dedicated,
decorated with statues of saints. was made in 1669–71 by
2 High altar Pieter van der Rennen, a
goldsmith from Gdańsk.
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp313–14
KRAKOW 149
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Wawel 3. Tel 12 429 95 16. Open
9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 12:30–5pm
Sun (Oct–Mar: 4pm). & 7 8
Transport
v 3, 6, 8, 10, 18, 40.
Crypt of the Pauline Church on the Rock,
Stalls pantheon to Polish creativity
The early Baroque oak stalls
in the chancel were made k Pauline Church
around 1620. on the Rock
ul. Skałeczna 15. Tel 12 421 72 44.
@ 101, 112, 124, 144, 162, 164, 169,
173, 179, 184, 194, 504. v 8, 10, 13,
18, 22. Open 8am–6pm daily. Crypt of
Honour Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
daily; Nov–Mar: by appt. &
M AŁOPOLSKA
LESSER POLAND
Małopolska is the country’s most picturesque and varied
region. Attractions such as the ski resort of Zakopane,
hiking trails in the Tatra Mountains, the miraculous Black
Madonna of Częstochowa and a lively folk tradition make it
Poland’s most popular tourist destination. Krakow, not only
the regional capital but the spiritual and historic capital of the
nation, is one of the noblest cities in Europe.
In the 9th century, the Vistulanian tribe centres of Polish culture, retaining
established a state in Małopolska. Their their identity despite a succession of
capital was Krakow, or Wiślica. In 990, annexations. Not until 1918, when Poland
Małopolska became part of the Polanian at last regained its independence, did
duchy of Mieszko I, and in 1039, Prince Małopolska again become part of the
Kazimierz the Restorer made Krakow Polish state.
the centre of his realm of power. For The Małopolska region is dotted with
centuries, Małopolska was the heart of picturesque towns, ruined castles, palaces,
Poland. However, its importance began country mansions, great monasteries and
to wane at the end of the 16th century, pretty wooden churches. The eastern
when the capital of the Republic was fringes of the region are distinguished by
moved to Warsaw. their Uniate Orthodox churches. There
After the Partitions of Poland, Małopolska are also many monuments to the Jewish
went into a gradual decline. While Galicia, population that was present in Małopolska
its southern part, came under Austrian before 1945.
rule, its northern part was incorporated In many parts of the region, folk customs
into the Russian Empire. When Galicia survive and flourish, nowhere more than
gained autonomy within the Austro- in the Podhale region; in Zakopane, the
Hungarian Empire, Galician towns, and regional capital of Podhale, folklore and
especially Krakow, became important folk art are a local industry.
The Galician small town of Stary Sącz, at the foot of the Sądecky Beskidy Mountains
The verdant landscape around Trzy Korony Peak, in the Pieniny Mountains
154 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Exploring Małopolska
Małopolska, in the south of Poland, is the country’s main
tourist region. Apart from Krakow, the greatest attractions
for visitors are the mountain ski resort of Zakopane, which
is the winter sports capital, and the picturesque Tatra
Mountains. In summer many hikers are drawn to the
region, and its mountains are traversed by well-marked
hiking trails. There are numerous welcoming hostels for
those in need of overnight shelter. Parts of the Beskid
Niski Mountains are almost without human habitation,
so that it is still possible to walk for several hours without
encountering a single living soul. Spiritual relief can be Interior of a cottage in Zalipie, with
traditional decoration
found deep within the forests, where walkers may be
surprised to encounter pretty wooden churches.
Getting Around
Krakow and Rzeszów can be Łodź
reached by air. The larger towns all
have good rail links with the rest
ica
Pil
of the country. Some small villages OBLĘGOREK
can only be reached by bus or car. KIELCE
CZĘSTOCHOWA Włoszczowa
The E77 highway goes north and Chęciny
south from Krakow, while the E40
Olsztyn
goes eastwards through Tarnów, Janòw ŚWIĘTO
Rzeszów and Przemyśl. Parallel to
it, but further south, major road Szczekociny Jędrzejów
EA
Zawiercie PIŃCZÓW
S’
Ogrodzieniec
N
E
ST
Miechów
WIŚLICA
S
Key Olkusz
T
Katowice
R
Motorway
A
L Proszowice
I
Minor road
Krakow
OŚWIĘCIM NIEPOŁOMICE
Main railway WIELICZKA Bochnia
Minor railway
NOWY
International border WADOWICE KALWARIA WIŚNICZ
Regional border ZEBRZYDOWSKA
ZAKOPANE
Rysy
2499m
Sights at a Glance
r Wiślica b Krynica
1 Oblęgorek t Pińczów n Biecz
2 Kielce y Częstochowa pp162–3 m Krosno
3 Holy Cross Mountains i Oświęcim (Auschwitz) . Krasiczyn Castle
4 Wąchock o Bielsko-Biała / Przemyśl
5 Opatów p Żywiec ! Jarosław
6 Ujazd a Wadowice @ Leżajsk
7 Sandomierz s Kalwaria Zebrzydowska £ Łańcut pp178–9
8 Baranów Sandomierski d Wieliczka $ Rzeszów
9 Rytwiany f Niepołomice
0 Kurozwęki g Zalipie
Tours
q Szydłów h Tarnów u Eagles’ Nests Trail
w Grabki Duże j Dębno near Brzeska c Dunajec Raft Ride
e Busko-Zdrój k Nowy Wiśnicz , Bieszczady Mountains Tour
l Chochołów
z Zakopane
Radom x Dębno Podhalańskie
v Stary Sącz
Skarżysko-
Kamienna
WĄCHOCK
Vistula
HOLY BodzentynOstrowiec
CRO Świętokrzyski
SS M
OU
NT
AI OPATÓW
NS
KRZYSKIE Lublin Niedzica Castle overlooking the artificial lake
UJAZD on the Dunajec
SANDOMIERZ
SZYDŁÓW Klimontów
GRABKI KUROZWĘKI Stalowa Wola
DUŻE Tarnobrzeg
RYTWIANY Nisko
BUSKO- BARANÓW Sa
ZDRÓJ SANDOMIERSKI
n
W i s ł ok
tu la
Vis Mielec
a
RZESZÓW Korczowa
TARNÓW Dębica JAROSŁAW
Radymno
DĘBNO NEAR Pilzno
BRZESKA PODKARPACKIE
Strzyżów Krzywcza PRZEMYŚL
KRASICZYN
Odrzykoń CASTLE Lviv
Harklowa
BIECZ
KROSNO Brzozów
Nowy Sącz
Gorlice
Sanok
Dukla
Zagórz
Carpathian Mou
Lesko
nta M BI
KRYNICA O E Solina
in UN SZC
Muszyna s TA Z A
IN D
Komańcza S T Y
OU
R
0 kilometres 25 Bieszczady
National Tarnica
0 miles 25 Park 1346m
2 Kielce
Road map E5. * 201,000. £ @
n pl. Niepodległości 1 (41 348 00 60).
Tel 41 345 86 81. ∑ um.kielce.pl
Cza
rna
Św. Katarzyna Wo • Sosnówka
• da
Dębno •
Po
rz Radki •
k
yw Chełmowa Góra
J ian
ka 351 m (1,152 ft)
Łysica
612 m (2,008 ft) Podłysica
Krajno
• 556 m (1,825 ft) Nowa
z Słupia
c
ko
•
ar J Św. Krzyż
•
W Łysa Góra
595 m (1,953 ft)
•
•
nianka Poduchowne
Wola Jachowa Kako Bieliny
4 Wąchock
Road map E4. * 2,900. £ @
Cistercian Abbey: ul. Koscielna 14.
Tel 41 275 02 00. Open daily.
Environs
In Raków, 12 km (7 miles)
The Camaldolite church in Rytwiany north of Kurozwęki, is the
Protestant church of the Polish
9 Rytwiany Brethren, founded at the time of
Road map E5. * 950. £ @ the establishment of Raków
Academy in the 1600s.
The main attraction of
Rytwiany is the early Baroque
Camaldolite church that stands
q Szydłów
next to the monastery. It was Road map E5. * 1,100. @ n ul.
built in 1624–5 by the Tęczyński Targowa 3 (41 354 53 13). _ Jousting
family and is considered to be tournament (Jul). ∑ szydlow.pl
one of the finest examples of
Camaldolite architecture in This attractive medieval town is Krakow Gate, the Gothic south gate into the
Europe. In accordance with the reached by crossing a bridge old town of Szydłów
rules of the order, the entrance over a moat and passing through
to the sanctuary leads through one of the old town gates. In
a narrow passageway, with the the 16th century this was a
w Grabki Duże
tiny houses of the monks lying flourishing town, and in 1528 it Road map E5. * 410. @
behind the monastery walls. The even had its own sophisticated
clock in the church tower water supply. By the mid-17th Between 1742 and 1750, the
marked the times for different century, however, it was falling architect Francisco Placidi
activities in the monastery. The into decline. Features of interest built a Rococo palace here
modest appearance of the are the town walls, 2 m (6 ft) for the castellan Stanisław
façade contrasts with the thick and 680 m (2,230 ft) long, Rupniewski. At the time, the
exuberant interior: stuccowork with spiked battlements, and unusual shape of the building
is complemented by colourful the Market Square, dominated aroused suspicions that the
frescoes painted by the prior, by the Church of St Władysław castellan intended it to be for
Venante da Subiaco. The church (Fara św. Władysława), initially in a harem. Rupniewski loved
is hidden deep in the forest in the Gothic style but rebuilt in women, so did nothing to
a vast clearing, putting it, the 17th century. contradict the gossip.
unfortunately, beyond the Also worth a visit are the The nucleus of the “harem”
reach of most tourists. Gothic castle of Kazimierz is a central hall covered with a
The ruins of the 15th-century the Great, with its Regional fanciful roof. This is surrounded
Gothic castle of Wojciech
Jastrzębiec, Archbishop of
Gniezno, which stand on the
edge of the village, are also
worth visiting.
0 Kurozwęki
Road map E5. * 840. @ n ul.
Zamkowa 3 (15 866 74 07). Castle:
Tel 15 866 72 71. Open Tue–Sun.
∑ kurozweki.com
r Wiślica
Road map E5. * 610. @
y Częstochowa
The monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa is the
most famous shrine of the Virgin in Poland and the
country’s greatest place of pilgrimage – for many, its
spiritual capital. The image of the Black Madonna of
Częstochowa, to which miraculous powers are
attributed, is Jasna Góra’s most precious treasure.
Founded in 1382 by Pauline monks who came from
Hungary at the invitation of Władysław, Duke of
Opole (who probably brought the image of the Knights’ Hall
Black Madonna to Częstochowa), the monastery The hall contains a series of late
17th-century paintings depicting major
withstood several sieges, including the legendary events in the monastery’s history.
40-day siege by the Swedes in 1655 (see p50).
Refectory
The ceiling is decorated with rich
frescoes by the 17th-century
painter Karl Dankwart. In 1670,
a wedding reception was held
here for the Polish king Michał
Korybut Wiśniowiecki and his
bride, Eleanor.
KEY
1 Arsenal
2 The 600th Anniversary
Museum has an impressive display
of artifacts made by concentration
Stations of the Cross camp inmates.
The 14 Stations of the Cross 3 Bastion of St Roch (belonging
standing on artificial rocks in the to Morsztynowie)
moat were created by the architect
Stefan Szyller and the sculptor Pius 4 The outdoor altar is where
Weloński in 1900–13. Every day, services are held for the pilgrims.
groups of pilgrims attend a 5 Confessional
religious service here.
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16
MAŁOPOLSKA LESSER POLAND 163
Transport
£@
Treasury
Gold and silver vessels,
church vestments,
tapestries and votive
offerings are among
the items on display.
Monastery Gates
The Lubomirski Gate,
the Stanisław August
Gate, the Gate of the . Basilica of the Holy Cross and the
Sorrowful Virgin Mary Nativity of the Virgin Mary
and the Bank (or The present basilica dates from 1692–
Jagiellonian) Gate 1728. The Baroque decoration of the
all lead to the high altar and of the ceiling, the latter
monastery hill. by Karl Dankwart, is rich in detail.
164 POLAND REGION BY REGION
1 Olsztyn
Every autumn, Wa
rta
thousands of spectators
gather to watch as a
magnificent firework
display and laser show
illuminate the stately sza
ruins of the castle.
em
Czarna Prz
2 Mirów
The castle once
belonged to the
Myszkowski family. It
is perched on a rocky
ridge, turning the
natural lie of the land to Dabrowa
defensive advantage. Górnicza
B łed o ws k i
D es ert
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
4 Ogrodzieniec
In the 16th century
the castle belonged
to the Boner family of
Krakow. With its gate,
towers and galleries,
5 Błędowski Desert
it is one of the most
This miniature desert is 320 sq km (123
picturesque castles
sq miles) of drifting sand and dunes.
on the trail.
Unique in Central Europe, it is slowly
becoming choked with vegetation.
6 Olkusz
The town is well
endowed with
historic buildings.
It owes its
prosperity to
silver and lead
mining.
7 Pieskowa Skała
The well-preserved castle
with its arcaded courtyard
and bastions dominates the
Prądnik valley. It is situated
Pilica on an inaccessible rock
Podzamcze surrounded by spectacular 8 Ojców National Park
scenery. The Prądnik valley has a karst
landscape; there are outcrops of
limestone, a multitude of gorges
and caves with bats. The most
famous rock is the pillar known
Miechów as Hercules’ Club.
Wolbrom
za
s
m
rze
aP
Biał
Klucze
9 Grodzisko
The obelisk with a stone elephant
is an unusual monument. It was
made in 1686 and stands next to
the Church of the Assumption.
Key
0 Imbramowice
Trail
This small village has a late
Other road Baroque Premonstratensian
convent that was built in
Krakow the 18th century.
o Bielsko-Biała
Road map D6. * 174,000. £ @
n Plac Ratuszowy 4 (33 819 00 50).
∑ bielsko.biala.pl
a Wadowice
Road map D6. * 19,400. £ @
n ul. Koscielna 4 (33 873 23 65).
∑ it.wadowice.pl
E Town Museum
ul. Zamkowa 5. Tel 33 861 21 24.
Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ muzeum-zywiec.pl Bernardine church in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
168 POLAND REGION BY REGION
E Museum of
Period Interiors
Tel 14 665 80 35. Open Mar–Dec:
9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat
& Sun. Closed Jan, Feb. & 8
∑ muzeum.tarnow.pl
k Nowy Wiśnicz
Road map E6. * 1,900. @
z Zakopane
Road map D6. * 27,000. £ @ n
ul. Kościuszki 17 (18 201 22 11). _
Autumn in the Tatras; International
Festival of Mountain Folklore (end
Aug). ∑ zakopane.pl
P Villa Atma
ul. Kasprusie 19. Tel 18 202 00 40.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (summer
2–6pm Fri). & (free Sun).
x Dębno
Podhalańskie
Road map E6. * 790. @
The Convent of the Order of St Clare in Stary Sącz
The picturesque larch timber
Parish Church of St Michael the c Dunajec Raft of the Order of St Clare
Archangel (Kościół parafialny św. (Klasztor Sióstr Klarysek),
Michała Archanioła), dating to
Ride founded in 1208 by the Blessed
the middle of the 15th century, See pp172–3. Kinga. The Gothic church was
is one of the most highly consecrated in 1280 and the
regarded examples of wooden vaulting dates from the 16th
Gothic architecture in Europe.
v Stary Sącz century. Its altars, with stucco-
The ceiling, walls and furnishings Road map E6. * 8,800. £ @ work ornamentation made by
are covered with colourful geo- n ul. Rynek 5 (18 446 18 58). Baldassare Fontana in 1696–9,
metric, figural and floral motifs _ Early Music Festival (Jun–Jul). and a pulpit from 1671 showing
painted at the end of the 1500s. ∑ sacz.pl a depiction of the Tree of Jesse,
A magnificent domed tower complement the modern
rises over the church. The church This charming Galician town decoration of the church.
is still used for religious services. has a cobbled Market Square
surrounded by small Environs
houses that in Nowy Sącz is situated 8 km
summer are (5 miles) northeast of Stary
bedecked with Sącz. In the large Market
flowers. Were it not Square stands the Neo-
for the presence of Baroque town hall of 1895–7.
cars, tourists and The town’s major buildings
modern shops, one are the old collegiate church,
might imagine that now the parish Church of St
time had stood still Marguerite (Kościół parafialny
here. The town’s św. Małgorzaty), founded by
finest buildings Zbigniew Oleśnicki in 1466,
Wooden Gothic church in Dębno Podhalańskie include the Convent and a fine synagogue.
Mt Giewont
Mt Kasprowy Wierch Little Giewont Starorobociarski Wierch
1,894 m
Dolina 1,987 m (6,519 ft) Dtugi Giewont 1,728 m (5,670 ft)
(6,214 ft) 2,176 m (7,139 ft)
Białego
1,867 m Burbot
Mt Sarnia Skała Kominiarski Wierch
(6,125 ft) Mt Małołączniak Valley
1,372 m 1,929 m (6,328 ft)
(4,500 ft) 2,096 m (6,876 ft)
172 POLAND REGION BY REGION
0 miles 1 Sromowce
3 Dunajec Dam Wyżne
Despite protests, the
2 Niedzica Castle building of this dam
The castle once guarded Key
went ahead. On the day
the Polish border with Raft ride route of its opening in 1997, it
Hungary. Its ruins perch saved the Dunajec valley
Tour route
on a precipitous outcrop from a disastrous flood.
of rock. Other road
Krościenko
on the Dunajec
6 Trzy Korony
Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) is the
T h ree C rown s most beautiful massif in the Pieniny
range. In 1287, the Blessed Kinga
took refuge from the Tartars in the
Du Castle of the order of St Clare, whose
na
jec
Sromowce ruins stand on one peak.
Średnie Niżne
5 Cerveny Kláštor
The ruins of the Red
4 Kąty Monastery can be seen on the
Departure point for the raft ride. Slovak side of the Dunajec.
6 Połonina Wetlińska
Known as “połoniny”, these
elongated ranges with their
picturesque alpine meadows above
forest level are a characteristic feature
of the Bieszczady Mountains. The
most interesting, 1,250 m (4,100 ft)
ka
up, are Caryńska and Wetlińska.
naw
Tar
Tylawa
2 Lesko
This charming town has
many fine buildings,
including a castle and a
16th-century parish
church. The Baroque
synagogue houses a
museum, and
Krościenko the Jewish cemetery
Sa n is also of interest.
•
Ustrzyki
Lake
Dolne
Myczkowskie
Polańczyk •
Lutowiska
•
3 Solina
Sa
n The highest dam in Poland –
82 m (269 ft) high and 664 m
li n a
Bieszczadzki
National •
Ustrzyki Górne
Park
•
Wołosate
0 kilometres 5
Key 0 miles 5
Tour route
Other road
destroyed by fire in 1852, on the and the banks of the River San,
eve of the marriage of a later goes back to prehistoric times.
owner, Duke Leon Sapieha. The In the Middle Ages it was a
castle is open to visitors; the regional capital and lay on a
residential section contains a busy trade route. The object of
hotel and restaurant. dispute between Poland and
Ruthenia, it became part of
Environs Poland in 1340, later passing
In Krzywcza, 10 km (6 miles) west into Austrian control.
of Krasiczyn, stand the ruins of During World War I, the
the castle of the Kącki family. strongly fortified city successfully
About 12 km (7 miles) south of held out against the besieging
Krasiczyn, in Posada Rybotycka, Russian army. The fortifications
is the only stone fortified Uniate from that time survive. From
church in Poland. In Kalwaria 1939 to 1941 the River San,
Pacławicka, the 18th-century which flows through the city,
Franciscan monastery has about constituted a border between
a dozen chapels marking the territory held by the Soviet
The Divine Tower, one of four towers Stations of the Cross. Passion Union and Germany.
in Krasiczyn Castle plays are performed here on The city’s Catholic and
Good Friday and many Orthodox churches, together
. Krasiczyn Castle processions and plays are with its synagogues, are
Road map F6. * 440. @ Castle: organized during the year for evidence of its multicultural
Tel 16 671 83 12. Open Nov–Mar (call different church festivities. history. Today, a Ukrainian
in advance). & 8 compulsory. 0 minority lives alongside the
- ∑ krasiczyn.com.pl city’s Polish population.
The cathedral, remodelled in
Krasiczyn Castle is one of the 1718–24, is predominantly in
most magnificent castles in the the Baroque style; of its earlier
old Ruthenian territories of the Gothic form only the chancel
Polish crown. Building began in remains. Notable features of
1592 on the site of an earlier the interior include the
castle by Stanisław Krasicki, Renaissance tomb of Bishop
castellan of Przewór. It was Jan Dziaduski, by Giovanni
continued by his son Marcin The funeral of the Virgin enacted in a Maria Padovano, and the late
and completed in 1608. The passion play in Kalwaria Pacławicka Gothic alabaster figure of the
architect was Galeazzo Appiani. Virgin from Jacków. Near the
The castle takes the form of cathedral are the Baroque
an arcaded courtyard, with a tall / Przemyśl Church of the Discalced
clock tower over the gate and Road map F6. * 67,000. £ @ Carmelites and the former
four stout cylindrical towers at n ul. Grodzka 1 (16 675 21 63). Jesuit church, now Uniate,
the corners. The Divine Tower _ Canoe rally (Apr, May); Gitariada dating from 1627–48. The castle,
contains a chapel. The Papal International Festival (Jul). founded by Kazimierz the Great
Tower is crowned by a dome ∑ przemysl.pl in the 1340s, stands on a hill
and decorated with a parapet above the city. The top of its
symbolizing the papal tiara. The history of Przemyśl, tower offers a panorama of the
The Royal Tower has a crown- picturesquely laid out on a hill city and the San valley.
shaped dome, and the Tower
of the Gentry is topped with
sword pommels.
The Baroque sgraffito on the
walls is striking. Mythological
scenes are depicted on the
upper tier; the central tier is
filled with portraits of the kings
of Poland from the 14th-century
Jagiellonian monarchs to Jan III
Sobieski, King of Poland at the
time, as well as portraits of
nobles. In the lowest tier are
medallions with the busts of
Roman patricians. Little of the
original decoration of the
interior survives, as it was Przemyśl, on the banks of the River San
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16
MAŁOPOLSKA LESSER POLAND 177
£ Łańcut
See pp178–9.
$ Rzeszów
Road map F5. * 184,000. £ @
k n ul. Rynek 26 (17 875 47 74).
∑ rzeszow.pl
@ Leżajsk
Road map F5. * 14,500. £ @
n ul. Rynek 1a (17 787 70 67).
_ Organ recitals in the basilica
(Jun–Aug: 7pm; booking required).
£ Łańcut
The town of Łańcut was purchased by Stanisław
Lubomirski in 1629. Securing the services of the architect
Maciej Trapola and the stuccoist Giovanni Battista Falconi,
this powerful magnate went about building a fortified
residence in the town. It was completed in 1641. After
1775 the palace, by then owned by Izabella Lubomirska,
was extended and the interiors remodelled. The Neo-
Classical Ballroom and the Great Dining Room were
created during this period, and the magnificent gardens
with their many pavilions laid out. In the 19th century, . Column Room
The statue in this room is that of the
ownership of the palace passed to the Potocki family. young Henryk Lubomirski, carved by
From 1889 to 1914, the penultimate owners, Roman and Antonio Canova in around 1787.
Elżbieta Potocki, modernized the residence. The palace,
now a museum, attracts numerous visitors.
Mirror Room
The walls are lined with Rococo
panelling brought back to Łańcut by
Izabella Lubomirska – probably from
one of her visits to France.
KEY
Carriage 1 Library
The largest collection of carriages in Poland is displayed 2 Corner tower known as the
in the coach house. It comprises 120 different types of Hen’s Foot
coaches, carriages and other horse-drawn vehicles.
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16
MAŁOPOLSKALESSER POLAND 179
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map F5. * 17,000. Palace:
Tel 17 225 20 08. Open Feb–Nov:
noon–3:30pm Mon, 9am–4pm
Tue–Sun (to 5pm Sun) (Jun–Sep:
extended hours – see website for
details). Closed Easter, 3 May, 2
wks in May, Corpus Christi, 1, 6,
11 Nov. & ^ = - 0 8
∑ zamek-lancut.pl
Transport
@£
. Theatre
The small court theatre was built around 1800. Its present
appearance is the result of remodelling carried out by the
eminent Viennese workshop of Fellner & Helmer. Sculpture Gallery
Many pieces, mostly
19th-century, make
up the collection
on display;
among
them is
this statue
of Psyche
carried by
Zephyrs, a copy
of a piece by
John Gibson.
Neo-Rococo Clock
This typically French
Neo-Rococo gilt clock
is mounted in the
mirror that hangs over . Ballroom
the fireplace in the The Neo-Classical ballroom was designed
Billiard Room. by Christian Piotr Aigner in 1800. The
stuccowork is by Fryderyk Baumann.
Façade
The palace façades are
fundamentally Baroque.
The rustication of the
lower storey, however,
is typical of French
Renaissance style – part of
the remodelling that the
palace underwent at the
end of the 19th century.
POLAND REGION BY REGION 181
SILESIA
Silesia’s great wealth of architectural monuments, its
eventful history and its beautiful and varied landscape
distinguish it from other regions of Poland. The region’s
well-preserved historic towns and the many hiking trails
in the picturesque Sudeten Mountains make it an area
that invites long exploration.
The stormy history of Silesia (Śląsk) and the language was German, many areas,
great variety of cultural influences that especially the Opole region and Upper
have flourished here have given this region Silesia, were inhabited by an influential
a rich heritage. It belonged initially to the Polish minority. After World War I, as a result
Bohemian crown and passed into Polish of the Silesian Uprisings of 1919–21, the
control around 990. When Poland split eastern part of Upper Silesia, together
into principalities, Silesia began to gain with Katowice, was included within Polish
independence. Divided into smaller borders. After 1945, nearly all of historical
independent duchies, it returned to Silesia joined Poland, and its German
Bohemian rule in the 14th century. After population was deported. Poles who had
1526, together with other Bohemian been resettled from Poland’s eastern
territories, it became part of the Habsburg provinces (which had been annexed by
Empire. During the Reformation, many of the Soviet Union) took their place.
its inhabitants were converted to Silesia is an enchanting region, not
Lutheranism. The Thirty Years’ War (1618– only for the breathtaking beauty of its
48) inflicted devastation on Silesia, mountain landscapes but also for its
bringing in its wake the repression of outstanding architecture. The medieval
Protestantism. While Jesuits and Cistercians castles built to defend ancient
erected magnificent Baroque monasteries borderlands, the grand Renaissance
at that time, under the terms of the Peace manor houses and impressive Baroque
of Westphalia of 1648, Protestants were residences, the great Gothic churches
limited to building the three “peace and stately monasteries – all these
churches”. The Habsburgs lost Silesia provide ample attractions and a
to Prussia in 1742. Although the main historic atmosphere.
Exploring Silesia
The most attractive part of the region is Lower
Silesia. A good starting point for exploration is
Wrocław, the provincial capital and a city full Gor zow Wlkp.
Bó b
the nearby slopes in winter. The visitor to
r
Żary
Silesia will also find beautiful palaces and GŁOGÓW
ŻAGAŃ
churches in almost every village. Many
Szprotawa
fine residences, however, are gradually Polkowice
Iłowa
falling into ruin.
Chocianów Lubin
Bolesławiec
LEGNICA
Bó
Zgorzelec GRODZIEC
br
LEGNICKIE
Lubań LWÓWEK
Dresden POLE
ŚLĄSKI
ZŁOTORYJA
CZOCH CASTLE
Pilchowice JAWOR
LUBOMIERZ Świny
JELENIA GÓRA BOLKÓW
Szklarska Poręba Cieplice Wałbrzych
KA Karpacz KSIĄŻ
M OR K O N
UN OSZE
TA I N
S KRZESZÓW
Hradec
Key
Motorway
Main road
Kudowa
Minor road Zdrój
Sheep in the alpine pastures of the Beskid Śląski Mountains
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Regional border
Sights at a Glance
1 Żagań t Bolków l Otmuchów
2 Głogów y Książ z Nysa
3 Lubiąż u Świdnica x Opole
4 Legnica i Zagórze Śląskie c Góra Świętej Anny
5 Legnickie Pole o Mt Ślęża v Cieszyn
6 Jawor p Wojnowice b Pszczyna
7 Złotoryja a Trzebnica n Upper Silesian
8 Grodziec s Oleśnica Industrial Region
9 Lwówek Śląski d Wrocław pp194–203
0 Czoch Castle f Brzeg Tours
q Lubomierz g Henryków w The Foothills of the
e Krzeszów h Kamieniec Ząbkowicki Karkonosze Mountains
r Jelenia Góra k Paczków j Kłodzko Valley
Getting Around
There are rail links between all the major Silesian cities, so
that it is possible to travel by train from Wrocław to Jelenia
Góra, Legnica, Głogów, Świdnica, Wałbrzych and Kłodzko.
There are also good connections between Katowice, Opole
and Wrocław, and trains also stop in Brzeg. Although
smaller towns are accessible by bus, the service can be very
infrequent, so that outside the major cities the best way to
travel is by car. The A4 motorway links several major cities,
while smaller roads provide more scenic routes.
Poznań
Góra
Rawicz
de
O
r
Milicz
(Odra)
Żmigród
Ścinawa
The Baroque plague column in the Market
Wołów Square in Świdnica
Syców
LUBIĄŻ TRZEBNICA
WOJNOWICE OLEŚNICA
Środa Byczyna
Śląska WROCŁAW Namysłów
Praszka
Jelcz-Laskowice
de Kluczbork
DOLNOŚLĄSKIE
O
r ra)
(Od
Jaworzyna
Olesno
Częstochowa
MT ŚLĘŻA
BRZEG
ŚWIDNICA
Wiązów
OPOLSKIE
Strzelin Dobrodzień
ZAGÓRZE
Niemcza Lubliniec
ŚLĄSKIE Grodków
OPOLE
HENRYKÓW
Strzelce
KAMIENIEC Opolskie ŚLĄSKIE
ZĄBKOWICKI Krapkowice Tarnowskie
NYSA Góry
Kłodzko PACZKÓW GÓRA ŚWIĘTEJ
OTMUCHÓW ANNY
KŁ O DZ K O
Głogówek Bytom
Bystrzyca Lądek Kędzierzyn- Zabrze Chorzów
Kłodzka Zdrój Głuchołazy Prudnik Koźle
U
D PPE
IN
Katowice
Głubczyce US R S
V
TR ILESI
ALL E
IAL AN
Rybnik REGION
O der (
Racibórz
Y
Zory
Od
PSZCZYNA
ra
)
Ostrava
Bielsko-
CIESZYN BIała
Wisła
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
5 Legnickie Pole
Road map B4. * 1,300. @
E Gallery of Silesian
Ecclesiastical Art
ul. Klasztorna 6. Tel 76 870 30 86
or 870 23 21. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–5pm Wed–Sun; Nov–Mar:
Tower of the Baroque Church of 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & (free Wed).
Peace in Jawor Gothic doorway of the 15th-century
Grodziec Castle
6 Jawor 7 Złotoryja
Road map B4. * 24,000. £ @ Road map B4. * 15,700.
8 Grodziec
n Rynek 3 (76 870 33 71). £ @ n Basztowa 15 (76 878 Road map B4. * 500. £ Złotoryja.
18 73). _ World Gold-Panning @ Castle: Open daily.
The capital of an independent Championships (May). ∑ grodziec.com
duchy in the Middle Ages,
Jawor is dominated by a castle Derived from the Polish word An imposing fortification
that is a vestige of those times. złoto, meaning gold, the town’s crowning a basalt hill, Grodziec
Reconstruction has robbed the name reflects the fact that the Castle was built in the 15th
castle of much of its original gold-rich sands of the River century in the Gothic style as
splendour, but other buildings, Kaczawa, which flows through the seat of the dukes of Legnica.
which were painstakingly Złotoryja, have been exploited It was extended in 1522–4 and
restored after World War II, since the early Middle Ages. over the next four centuries it
enhance the town’s historic Even today gold-seekers flock to was destroyed several times,
atmosphere. contests organized by the local once during the Thirty Years’ War
The most picturesque gold-panning association. (1618–48). It was rebuilt in the
building is the large Church of Features of interest in Romantic style in 1906–8.
Peace (Kościół Pokoju). It was Złotoryja include the Gothic The walls, which follow the
one of three Protestant “peace Church of St Mary (Kościół contours of the hill, are irregular.
churches” erected in Silesia NMP), which has a 13th-century The castle’s tower and living
after the Peace of Westphalia presbytery, and the remains of quarters survive.
that marked the end of the the town walls. At the bottom of the hill is
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48). It the magnificent, although
was built by Andreas Kempner, Environs neglected, palace built for the
to a design by Albrecht von The volcanic Wilcza Góra Frankenberg family by Johann
Säbisch, in 1654–6. With the Geological Park, also known as Blasius Peintner in 1718–27. Its
church in Świdnica (see p191), Wilkołak, lies 2 km (1¼ miles) overgrown surroundings were
it is among the world’s largest south of Złotoryja. Unusual once attractive gardens.
timber-framed structures. basalt formations known as
Other notable buildings in “basalt roses” can be seen in
Jawor are the 14th-century the western part of the park.
9 Lwówek Śląski
Road map B4. * 9,300. £ @
n pl. Wolności 1 (76 647 79 12).
∑ lwowekslaski.pl
Jakuszyce
Sz
kla
rk
a
3 Szklarska Poręba
This health resort is a good starting point for
excursions into the Karkonosze Mountains. It
is also famous for its glassworks – handmade
crystal artifacts are available in local kiosks.
4 Jagniątków
A picturesque villa was built
here by the Nobel Prize-
winning author Gerhart
Hauptmann for his second
wife in 1900–02. It now
houses a gallery of paintings
illustrating scenes from
Hauptmann’s works.
Environs
A few kilometres from Brzeg is
the small village of Małujowice,
or Mollwitz, where on 10 April
1741 a major battle was fought
in the Austro-Prussian war. The
Gothic church there contains
unusual 14th-century frescoes
Courtyard of the Castle of the Dukes of Oleśnica and Renaissance ceilings.
194 POLAND REGION BY REGION
d Wrocław
The city of Wrocław bears the stamp of several cultures. It was
founded by a Czech duke in the 10th century and a Polish
bishopric was established here in 1000. Later it became the
capital of the duchy of Silesian Piasts, and then came under
Czech rule in 1335. In 1526, with the whole Czech state, it was
incorporated into the Habsburg Empire, and in 1741 was
transferred to Prussian rule. The fierce defence that German
forces put up here in the last months of World War II left
almost three-quarters of the city in ruins. However,
reconstruction has largely healed the ravages of the past.
SKA
Wrocław University was C IE
SZY
GRO U N IW
ERS
ŃSK YTE
ZAŃ
Airport H CKA
established as an academy 11 km (7 miles) IC
TK CH
IE G
O
YS TY NO
ODR
SZ IĘ ŻOW
by Emperor Leopold I in W ŚW Współczesny ŁAZ
IEN
NA
NIC
ZA
Theatre
1702 and in 1811 became a
ZA
Church of
SKA
St Barbara Ś W. Church of
NIC
university. Many of its alumni MIK
OŁA St Elizabeth
I AT
JA
SZEW
KUŹ
ZA
RU
Ź N IC
SK MARKET
N IC
A
include nine Nobel laureates, SQUARE
NOWY
W
BAŚ
S T W I TA
RZE
GAR
NCA
among them the nuclear
P O D WA L E
RSK OS
KIEŁ
ŻEL
AŹN
IE ZA
physicist Max Born (1882–
PS
ICZ
ŚW E Cathedral
IE
. A Town Hall
1970). Since 1945 it has been N of St Mary
BU
TO PLAC
NI SOLNY Magdalene
DY
EG
PA W Ł A
O
a Polish centre of learning O F IA Kameleon
RO
and university. Ś
KA
W IĘ Store
W University C IM
CKA
ŁO
IARS
DK S K IC
The centrepiece of this OW Library H
KA
ŁAC
DNI
IC
A
imposing Baroque building is
WS
KA
ZA
ŚWI
Royal ZIM
IC
ER
PN
Palace ZA
WI
U
KIE
GO
decoration includes stucco- PO PLAC
WOLNOŚCI Church of Saints
DW
work, gilding and carvings AL Wenceslas, Stanisław
E and Dorothy M E N N
ICZA
by Franz Josef Mangoldt PLAC
TEATRALNY
and paintings by Christoph Dolnośląska T E AT
A ŁA
A
RALN
A
ICK
Opera Hause
Handke glorifying wisdom,
CI
O
knowledge and science, and BO ŻEG Theatre
ŚW
Central Wrocław
1 Wrocław University
2 Church of the Holy Name
of Jesus
3 Plac Biskupa Nankera
4 National Museum
5 Panorama of Racławice
6 Bernadine Church and Monastery
7 Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene
8 Kameleon Store
9 Market Square
0 Town Hall
q Church of St Elizabeth
w Royal Palace
e Church of Saints Wenceslas,
The richly ornamented interior of the university assembly hall Stanisław and Dorothy
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16
WROCŁAW 195
Church of
St Martin Church of the
Piasek Island Holy Cross Church of
Church of
most
Tumski Ś W.
IDZIE
St Giles 17th-century paintings,
GO
St Anna including works by the Silesian
K AT PLAC
EDRA KATED-
PLAC ŚW. LNA
JADWIGI Church
of RALNY artist Michael Willmann (1630–
St Mary Archbishop’s Cathedral of
Ossoliński on Piasek Palace St John the Baptist 1706) and wooden sculptures
Library by Thomas Weissfeldt (1630–
Church of OSTRÓW TUMSKI
Chucrh of
St Vincent
BU
1712). The second floor is
LW Od
St Maciej Hala AR
XA
ra devoted to works by
PLAC Targowa W
A . F. ER contemporary Polish artists.
O WA
BISKUPA
NANKERA EG
O
M
O
DUN
OD
IEG
I KOWSK
PIASK
IEGO
RZ E W S K I E G O
K. JANICK
most
NOWY Pokoju
TARG
J A N A E WA N G E L I S T Y P U R KY N I E G O National
DY Ń SKA
Awangarda Museum
Church of
Gallery
Y
St Adalbert Panorama
ARZYN
of Racławice J. Słowacki
NAR
Bernardine Church
Park
BER
A JULI
USZ WA C K I E G O
A SŁO Zoo
ŚW
People's Hall
OŁA
Szczytnicki Park
WSK
A
PLAC Façade of the National Museum
DOMINIKAŃSKI
Church of
St Christopher the Piasts as a mausoleum, and it E Panorama of Racławice
still contains Gothic ducal tombs. ul. Purkyniego 11. Tel 71 344 16 61.
A
ALE
RGI
ZBOW
Next door, at No. 17, is the Gothic Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (summer:
KA
PODW
Church of St Maciej (Kościół św. to 5pm daily). Closed see the website
WIER
RA S
Macieja), which dates from the for details. & (buy tickets online).
PIOT
and was once owned by the This painting depicts the Battle
Knights Hospitallers of the Red of Racławice of 4 April 1794,
Star. The pavilion of the gallery when the Poles defeated the
at No. 8, on the opposite side of Russians. It is 120 m (400 ft)
Train station the street, contains 13th-century long and 15 m (46 ft) high and
550 m (600 yards)
walls of the House of the Nuns took the artists Jan Styka and
of Trebnica, the oldest surviving Wojciech Kossak nine months
secular building in the city. to paint. Unveiled in 1894 in
+ Plac Biskupa Nankera Lviv, in Ukraine, it was brought
The buildings in this square date E National Museum to Poland in 1946 and put on
from various periods. The Gothic pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5. Tel 71 display in Wrocław in 1985.
Church of St Vincent (Kościół 372 51 50. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
św. Wincentego), at No. 5, was Wed–Sun (to 6pm Sat); Oct–Mar:
erected in the 13th to the 15th 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (to 5pm Sat).
centuries. The late 17th-century & 7 (free on Sat, limited
Baroque monastery is now part availability). ∑ mnwr.art.pl
of the University of Wrocław. The ground floor contains
The group of Baroque examples of Silesian and Gothic
monastic buildings at No. 16 art, including the tombstone of
encloses the small 13th-century Henry IV, the Good, dating from
Church of St Clare (Kościół św. 1300. The first floor has a Rotunda containing the Panorama of
Klary). The church was used by collection of 16th- and Racławice
For keys to symbols see back flap
196 POLAND REGION BY REGION
ŚWIĘ TOKRZYSK A
Tumski Bridge
The present bridge
was built in 1888–
92. The figures of St
MOST MŁ
Ś W.
MAR
Jadwiga and St John CINA
the Baptist guarding it are
by Gustav Grunenberg.
YŃSKI
ŚW, JAD
WIGI
. Church of St Mary
on Piasek (Kościół NMP na Piasku)
Key
The interior of the church was
restored after World War II. Suggested route
A
built in the 1230s, is the oldest
D
N
surviving church in Wrocław.
LO
H
.
A
Arch-
.
RD diocesan
KA
Museum
A
NK
NI
A MI
KO
NO B.
KA R D.
KA
N Y
AL
DR
TE
KA
P L.
LNA
RA
ED
KAT
Monument to St
John Nepomuk
R Church of St Martin
ul. św. Marcina 7.
The first ecclesiastical building
raised on the site now occupied
by the Church of St Martin
(Kościół św. Marcina) was a
stronghold chapel erected at Ulica Katedralna, with the Cathedral of St John the Baptist
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16
WROCŁAW 201
E Archdiocesan Museum
ul. Kanonia 12. Tel 71 322 17 55.
Open 9am–3pm Tue–Sat.
The Archdiocesan Museum
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)
stands among a group of
buildings dating from three
historical periods. The earliest
is the Gothic-Renaissance
chapterhouse built in 1519–27,
which has fine portals and
arcades. The later Baroque
chapterhouse was completed in
1756. The purpose-built Neo-
Gothic museum, libraries and
archives of the archdiocese
were built in 1896. The museum The Botanical Gardens on Ostrów Tumski
202 POLAND REGION BY REGION
is surrounded by shady pergolas. The footbridges and pathways landmark in the development
A steel needle, which is 96 m that run among the pavilions of residential architecture in
(316 ft) in height and was made and plants make a charming the 1920s. The houses were
by Stanisław Hempel, stands setting for a leisurely walk. examples of different
outside the main entrance. It was Look out for the rose garden residential buildings designed
erected here in 1948. The hall is a and a small 12th-century for the Exhibition of Living
UNESCO World Heritage Site. wooden church that was and Working Space organized
brought over from Stare by the Deutscher Werkbund
Y Szczytnicki Park Koźle and reconstructed. movement in 1929. Many
North of the exhibition area prominent German architects
is an extensive park whose took part in the project. The
history dates back to the most impressive building is
18th century. It was originally an apartment block (at Ulica
the site of the residence of Kopernika 9) designed by
Duke Friedrich Ludwig von Hans Scharoun, architect
Hohenlohe-Ingelfingen, but of several buildings in Berlin,
that building was destroyed including the National Library
during the Napoleonic Wars and the Berlin Philharmonic
(1799–1815), after which the Orchestra’s Concert Hall.
area was remodelled as a Modern architecture
landscaped park. House designed by Hans Scharoun on the enthusiasts should also visit
One of Szczytnicki Park’s Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy housing estate Sępolno, which was built in
distinctive features is its 1924–8 and is a fine example
delightful Japanese garden, P Mieszkanie i Miejsce of a garden city.
which has been painstakingly Pracy Housing Estate
restored with the help of The Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Z Jewish Cemetery
Japanese gardening experts. housing estate is a unique ul. Ślężna 37/39. Tel 71 791
59 03. Open 8am–dusk daily
(to 6pm summer). 8 until noon.
Closed Jewish holidays.
This is one of the very few
Jewish cemeteries in Poland
that escaped destruction at
the hands of the Nazis during
World War II. Originally opened
in 1856, it was the burial place
of many celebrated citizens
of Wrocław, including the
socialist politician Ferdinand
Lassalle, the painter Clara
Sachs and the parents of
Sister Theresa Benedicta of
the Cross, who was born in
Japanese garden in Szczytnicki Park Wrocław as Edith Stein.
204 POLAND REGION BY REGION
h Kamieniec
Ząbkowicki
Road map B5. * 4,700. £ @
1 Wambierzyce
The village is an ancient place of pilgrimage. The
Pilgrimage Church dates from 1695–1710, although
its oval nave was built in 1715–20. In the village and
nearby hills are more than 130 Stations of the Cross.
3 Kudowa Zdrój
Built in 1776, the Chapel of Skulls
(Kaplica czaszek) near Kudowa
Zdrój contains 3,000 skulls and • Kudowa
other bones of victims of the
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) Nachod Lewin Kłodzki Szczytna
• J
and ensuing plagues. •
4 Duszniki Zdrój
Features of interest in
this health spa are the •
0 Lądek Zdrój
This picturesque resort
has luxurious mineral
baths and a historic
market square. For the
energetic, the ruins of
q Kłodzko Karpień Castle are within
The large 18th-century castle commands walking distance.
a panoramic view over the town. There is
also a Gothic bridge with Baroque carving
and an underground passage. 8 Międzygórze
This delightful
resort at the foot
9 Kletno of the Śnieżnik
Bear’s Cave, the largest in the Sudeten massif in the
range, has 3 km (2 miles) of Wilczka River
subterranean passages on four Valley is an ideal
different levels with stalactites and starting point for
stalagmites in a variety of shapes. mountain hiking.
Wrocław
7 Bystrzyca Kłodzka
The town’s Museum of
Fire-Making is devoted
to the manufacture of
matches and cigarette
lighters. The Gothic
church that towers
over the old town has
an unusual double-
nave interior.
Bia
ła
Ląd
eck
a
•
Stronie Śl.
a
odzk
a Kł
Nys
Domaszków
•
J
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
6 Gorzanów
Key The Renaissance-Baroque
Hiking path palace in Gorzanów dates from
the 16th century. Its present
Other route
form is the result of extensions
carried out in the 17th century.
b Pszczyna
Road map D5. * 26,000. £ @
n Brama Wybrańców (32 212 99 99).
∑ pszczyna.info.pl
WIELKOPOLSKA
GREATER POLAND
Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) is the cradle of Polish
statehood. It was here in the mid-10th century that the
Polonians, the strongest of the Polish tribes, set up an
enduring state structure. It was also in this region that the Piast
dynasty, the first Polish dynasty, emerged to rule the country in
the 10th century. The first two capitals of Poland, Gniezno and
Poznań, lie in Wielkopolska.
During the Thirty Years’ War of 1618–48, part of Wielkopolska and almost the entire
the region of Wielkopolska was settled region as it had been before the Partitions
by large numbers of dissenting Germans, was reincorporated into the Polish state.
particularly from neighbouring Silesia. The inhabitants of Wielkopolska have a
The Protestant faith of the incomers set long-standing reputation for thrift and
them apart from the existing inhabitants, orderliness. The years of Soviet domination
who were Catholics. that followed World War II strained these
During the Partitions of Poland, qualities to the limit, although the local
Wielkopolska was divided. Under the state-owned farms worked more
terms of the Congress of Vienna of 1815, efficiently than those in other parts of
the larger western part fell under Prussian the country and many palaces and
rule, and the smaller eastern part came country mansions have survived in better
under Russian control. In the second half condition than was the case elsewhere.
of the 19th century the Prussian part of Poznań, the capital of Wielkopolska,
Wielkopolska was subjected to repeated abounds in historic buildings, as do other
but unsuccessful campaigns of towns in the region. Almost every town,
Germanization. Polish activists fought however small, contains something of
back in the courts and laid the economic interest. Wielkopolska maintains its identity:
foundations for the Polish section of to this day the customs preserved in many
the population. At the end of 1918, of the region’s towns and villages are
insurrection broke out in the western distinct from those in other parts of Poland.
Exploring Wielkopolska
Wielkopolska’s extensive territory is mainly low-lying, but the Chojnice
Trzcianka
Chodzież
Note ć
Drezdenko Krzyż Czarnków
Wielkopolski
Wągrowiec
Szczecin
Gorzów Wlkp.
WIELKOPOLSKIE
Międzychód Oborniki
Skwierzyna Szamotuły OSTRÓW
Pniewy LEDNICKI
Międzyrzecz POZNAŃ
Lwówek
Rzepin GUŁTOWY
ŁAGÓW
Słubice Nowy Tomyśl KÓRNIK
KOSZUTY
Świebodzin Grodzisk
Wielkopolski ROGALIN
Środa
Wlkp.
Zaniemyśl
Wolsztyn
Getting Around
Kościan
Wielkopolska is situated on main transport routes
between eastern and western Europe. The efficient
express train service from Berlin to Poznań takes
just under 3 hours, and the journey from Warsaw LESZNO Gostyń
Sights at a Glance
1 Łagów t Ląd
2 Leszno y Śmiełów
3 Rydzyna u Gołuchów
4 Rogalin pp218–19 i Kalisz
5 Poznań pp220–25 o Antonin
6 Kórnik p Piotrków Trybunalski
7 Koszuty a Sulejów
8 Gułtowy s Łódź pp234–5
9 Czerniejewo d Łęczyca
0 Ostrów Lednicki
q Gniezno pp228–9 Tours
w Biskupin r Romanesque
Skansen on Lake Lednicki e Lubostroń Architecture Tour
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
W I E L K O P O L S K A G R E AT E R P O L A N D 215
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
LUBOSTROŃ Toruń
Żnin
Inowrocław
BISKUPIN Key
ROMANESQUE Motorway
Vistu
Strzelno ARCHITECTURE TOUR la
Motorway under construction
Lake Main road
GNIEZNO Gopło Kowal
Płock
Minor road
Lubień Kujawski
CZERNIEJEWO Main railway
ŚMIEŁÓW Rychwał
ŁĘCZYCA
Tum
Jarocin Ozorków
r ta
Zgierz
Wa
GOŁUCHÓW
Dobryczy Aleksandrów ŁÓDŹ
Łódzki
KALISZ
Warta Warsaw
Ostrów
ŁÓDZKIE
Wielkopolski
Sieradz Tuszyn
Łask
ANTONIN
Ostrzeszów Złoczew PIOTRKÓW
Opoczno
TRYBUNALSKI
SULEJÓW
Kępno
Wieluń
Opole Kielce
Radomsko
Częstochowa
1 Łagów
Road map B3. * 1,600. £ @ n
68 341 20 62 (Jun–Sep). _ Lubuskie
Film Festival (Jun). ∑ lagow.pl
P Kórnik Library
ul. Zamkowa 5. Tel 61 817 00 81
or 817 19 30. Open 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols,
Easter, 1 Sep, Dec–Feb.
∑ bkpan.poznan.pl
Environs
There are several holiday
villages scattered along the
shores of lakes Kórnik and
Bniń, to the south of Kórnik.
The best known of them is
Zaniemyśl, which boasts
both a bathing beach and
a holiday camp among its
attractions. On Edward Island
there is a 19th-century wooden
A room with coffered ceiling and ornate floor in Kórnik Castle pavilion built in the style of a
Swiss chalet.
6 Kórnik Czartoryski Palace in Puławy
Road map C3. * 7,200. £ @ (see p125). In order to acquire
7 Koszuty
∑ kornik.pl the library at Puławy, Tytus
Działyński persuaded his son Road map C3. * 400. £ @
Set on an island and Jan to marry Izabella, heiress
surrounded by a landscaped to the Czartoryski fortune. In an enchanting 18th-
park, Kórnik Castle is one of The castle has an extensive century country house, set
the most picturesque library and a museum. in a landscaped garden, the
castles in Poland. Its The museum’s interior of a Wielkopolska
present appearance collections include landowner’s mansion has been
dates from the 19th a display of 16th reconstructed and is now the
century, when it was to 19th century Środa Land Museum.
rebuilt in the English Polish and foreign
Neo-Gothic style by paintings, as well E Środa Land Museum
Karl Friedrich Schinkel. as sculpture, drawings Tel 61 285 10 23. Open 9am–3pm
There have also been and an intriguing array Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun.
some subsequent of militaria, including
alterations. Suit of armour, Kórnik a complete suit of Environs
The castle’s original Castle Museum armour. The Kórnik The town of Środa
interior survives: the Library contains Wielkopolska, which is situated
Moorish Hall is decorated in manuscripts of Polish poets’ just 6 km (4 miles) east of
the style of the Alhambra works and a substantial Koszuty, has an interesting
Palace in southern Spain and collection of prints and maps. Gothic collegiate church dating
in the dining room the ceiling There is also a park that contains from the 15th to 16th centuries.
is covered with the coats of
arms of all the Polish knights
who fought at the Battle of
Grunwald (1410). An inscription
in Turkish on the ceiling of
one hall is an expression of
thanks to Turkey, which refused
to recognize the Partitions
of Poland. The castle also
contains a collection of 18th-
and 19th-century porcelain
and other pieces.
The castle became the
repository of the art treasures
that were once kept at Country house in Koszuty dating from the 18th century
218 POLAND REGION BY REGION
French Garden
The French
garden at the
palace’s rear is
elevated at one
end to provide
a view of the
grounds.
. Art Gallery
A pavilion built in
1909–12 contains
a collection of
European and Polish
paintings dating from
about 1850 to the
early 20th century,
including works by
Jacek Malczewski
and Jan Matejko.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Świątniki nad Wartą, ul.
Arciszewskiego 2. Road map C3.
Palace Museum: Tel 61 813 80 30.
Open call for opening times. &
∑ mnp.art.pl
Mausoleum Chapel
Designed in the style of a classical
temple and built in 1817–20, the
The Coach House mausoleum chapel contains the
Built with the stables in around 1801, tombs of prominent members of
the coach house was commissioned the Raczyński family.
by Filip Raczyński.
220 POLAND REGION BY REGION
I
SZ RZEBY
P Old Market Square C
IU
FA
ZE
Ś
Cemetery KSI ĘCI A
The Old Market Square
O
K JÓ
T.
(Stary Rynek) is the heart of
the old town. It is surrounded Carmelite Church of
by town houses with colourful Monastery St Adalbert
DZIAŁO A
ŚW
around the square are filled WO
.W
LNI
CA
OJ
mainly by banks, cafés
CI
EC
and restaurants, and
H
A
GO
SK
Ń
the streets leading
SKIE
ŁY
M PLAC
off the square
W
WIELKOPOLSKI
A L . K . M A R C I N KO
PLAC
Interior of the former Dominican Church contain CYRYLA
A
TEGO
23 LU
NIECK
RATAJSKIEGO
A
Przemysław
WSK
of the Heart of Jesus elegant shops. Castle
WRO
ŻYDO
From spring to Działyński
3
Raczyński Town
of Jesus square bustles
JA
PLAC Library
WOLNOŚCI Hall
ul. Szewska 18. Tel 61 852 50 76 or with life, and the OLD MARKET
853 33 59. outdoor cafés 27 GRUD
NIA National SQUARE
Museum
The Church of the Heart of Jesus with their tables Z IA
Airport KO
(Kościół Serca Jezusowego), and colourful
LN A
7 km (4 miles) Archaeological
built in the 13th century, is the sunshades are
SZ K O
PO Museum
DG GOŁ Ę
Ó BIA
oldest church in the old town. permanently Kaiser District
RN
A Church of Saints
It was a Dominican church busy. Local artists Ś W.
MARCIN Mary Magdalene
display their PLAC and Stanisław Chopin
until 1920, when it passed WIOSNY
LUDÓW Park
A
to the Jesuits. During the paintings, while WY
SOK PO
ST DG
A
EL NA
EC
War II, a repository was set up steps of the town hall. KA
P Ó ŁW
A
here for Polish books removed The square is also a venue ZI ELON
Train Station
1.6 km (1 mile)
from the libraries of Poznań. for cultural events.
P Działyński Palace
Stary Rynek 78. Tel 61 852 48 44.
∑ bkpan.poznan.pl
The palace was built in the late
18th century for Władysław
Gurowski, Grand Marshal of
Lithuania. The elegant Neo-
Classical façade is crowned
with a large eagle and set with
figures of Roman soldiers made
by Anton Höhne in 1785–7.
It is worth going inside to see
the columned Red Room
upstairs. The building is now
used as a library, theatre,
The Old Market Square in Poznań exhibition and concert hall.
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
POZNAŃ 221
PA N
NY
BOŻNICZA
W
Archdiocesan and continued for more than
M
WA
Museum
AR
rt
T
OST
RÓW UMSK
I
role in this extended project,
Church of
M A ŁE St Mary among them Tomasso Poncino,
GARB KI
A RY MS Poznań
Psalter
TU
Cathedral Bartołomiej Wąsowski and
E. E
ÓW
S TAW
NA ST Jan Catenaci.
KO
TR
W S
SK O
IE GO The most impressive aspect
GO YSZY ŃSKIE
Church of the KARD. S. W
Heart of Jesus of the church is probably its
DO M IN most
IK AŃ SK
A Bolesława monolithic interior. Gigantic
O
Chrobrego
W
I SZ
E
columns along the walls lead
AL
W
WIELKA CH 12 times to butt heads. the eye towards the illuminated
The Great Hall, or Renaissance high altar, which was designed
WOŹN
A Hall, on the first floor was and constructed in 1727 by
lavishly decorated to reflect the Pompeo Ferrari.
W O DN
A
affluence of the city’s municipal The Baroque buildings of a
RY
College
collections can be seen in the brotherhood in 1701–33. Today,
ST
ZA BRAMKĄ
WSZYSTKICH
OW
Poznań Cathedral
The first church, a pre-Romanesque basilica, was built in
Poznań in 966, shortly after Poland adopted Christianity,
and the first rulers of Poland were buried there. In 1034–8
the basilica was destroyed during pagan uprisings and
the campaign of the Czech prince
Brzetysław. It was then completely
rebuilt in the Romanesque style. It
was remodelled in the Gothic and
Baroque periods, and after Coffin Portrait
suffering war damage was The cathedral has a
display of these portraits,
restored to its earlier Gothic which were used during
form. Vestiges of the funeral ceremonies in the
pre-Romanesque and 17th and 18th centuries.
Romanesque churches
can be seen in the crypt.
Main entrance
High Altar
The late Gothic polyptych on the
high altar was probably carved in
the workshop of Jacob Beinhart in Wrocław
and painted in the Pasje studio of Upper Silesia.
It was brought to the cathedral in 1952.
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
POZNAŃ 225
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Ostrów Tumski. Tel 61 852 96 42
or 856 04 54. Open Mar–Oct:
9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 2–6pm Sun;
Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm Mon–Sat,
2–6pm Sun.
w Biskupin
Road map C3. * 320. @ n 052
302 50 55. Open summer: 9am–6pm
daily; winter: 9am–5pm daily. &
_ Archaeology Gala (Sep).
∑ biskupin.pl
0 Ostrów Lednicki
Road map C3. @ £ g concides
with opening hours for the Museum
of the Firsts Piasts. Closed 1 Nov–
14 Apr.
r Romanesque
Architecture Tour
See pp230–31.
t Ląd
Road map C3. * 530. @
. Bronze Doors
The bronze doors of the
cathedral, made in the
late 12th century and
depicting scenes from
the life and martyrdom
of St Adalbert, are
among the finest
examples of
Romanesque art
in Europe.
. Tomb of Archbishop
Zbigniew Oleśnicki
This tomb was carved in red
marble by the late Gothic
sculptor Veit Stoss in 1495.
KEY
St Adalbert (St Wojciech in Polish) was a bishop from Prague. In Practical Information
977, at the suggestion of Bolesław the Brave, he left Poland for Road map C3. * 70,000.
the heathen lands of Prussia, where he converted the inhabitants n ul. Rynek 14 (61 428 41 00).
to Christianity but was martyred. Bolesław bought the saint’s Cathedral: ul. Łaskiego 9. Tel 61
body from the Prussians, 428 40 80. Open 9am–6pm.
giving them in return its Closed services, noon–1pm.
weight in gold, and laid the = 8 Bronze Doors: & 8
remains in Gniezno. Pope ∑ gniezno.eu
Sylvester II acknowledged
Transport
the bishop’s martyrdom
£@
and canonized him.
In 1038, when the Czech
prince Brzetysław invaded
the city, the cathedral was Exploring Gniezno
sacked and the saint’s relics Baptism of the Prussians, a scene from Besides its magnificent cathedral,
taken to Prague. the cathedral doors Gniezno has many historic
buildings and fine museums,
making for a pleasant walk
around the city. Gniezno
Nave
Archdiocesan Museum, next
The arcades separating
to the cathedral, has religious
the nave from the
aisles have rich artifacts, including paintings,
sculptural decoration sculpture, textiles and coffin
made from artificial portraits (see p35). A smart street
stone and dating from leads off the Market Square to
the second half of the the Gothic Church of St John
14th century. (Kościół św. Jana), which has
14th-century murals. It is hard to
imagine that this small town was
once the capital of the Polish
nation. The Museum of the
Origins of the Polish State in
Piast Park tells the history of the
city. In the park are the remains
of a late medieval fortified town.
E Gniezno
Archdiocesan Museum
ul. Kolegiaty 2. Tel 61 426
37 78. Open May–Oct:
9am–5pm daily
(to 4pm Sun); Nov–Apr:
9am–4pm Tue–Sat.
& (free for clergy).
∑ muzeumag.com
An impressive
collection of religious
art, including
artifacts from the
cathedral treasury, Monument to Bolesław
Visitors’ is displayed in
entrance the Brave
this museum.
1 Gniezno
2 Trzemeszno By the 14th century, Gniezno’s
In the 12th century an Romanesque church had been
order of Augustinian replaced by a Gothic cathedral,
canons regular settled but the bronze doors of the earlier
here on the site of a building survive (see pp228–9).
pre-Romanesque
basilica and Benedictine
monastery that had
been demolished in
1038. In 1782–91 the
church was rebuilt in
the Baroque style.
Poznań
4 Strzelno
The Rotunda of St Procopius
in Strzelno dates from the
turn of the 13th century.
In the Church of the Holy
3 Mogilno Trinity 12th-century
The Benedictine church probably dates carvings, discovered
from the 11th century. After many phases in 1946, depict
of rebuilding it finally acquired a Baroque personifications of
façade, although many Romanesque the virtues and vices
elements remain, in particular the crypt. of Christian tradition.
7 Lake Gopło
This narrow lake is surrounded Toruń
mostly by marshy meadows. Bydgoszcz
It is home to many birds,
including bitterns, marsh
harriers, lapwings and
wild geese.
Ka
6 Kruszwica
na
tecki
bishopric and the mid-12th-century
Church of St Peter may well have been
its cathedral. The shell and the interior
Barcin of the church are built of granite
ashlars, which survive, remarkably,
Lake
Pakoskie
almost in their original state.
Lake
Gopło Key
Tour route
Radziejów Other road
Konin
0 kilometres 5
i Kalisz
Road map C4. * 103,000. @ £
n ul. Zamkowa (62 598 27 31). _
Theatre Festival (May); International
Jazz Festival (Nov–Dec). ∑ kalisz.pl
Environs
In the village of Bralin, 36 km
(22 miles) north of Antonin, Cistercian abbey in Sulejów
234 POLAND REGION BY REGION
The centre of the Polish textile industry, Łódź developed at an Practical Information
astonishing rate as the industry thrived. Its population grew Road map D4. * 708,000.
n ul. Piotrkowska 87 (42 638 59
from just 15,000 in 1850 to more than half a million in 1914. It 55). _ International Ballet
was a place of great contrasts, which were vividly documented Festival (May).
in the novel The Promised Land (1899) by the Nobel Prize-
Transport
winning author Władysław Reymont. The contrasts can still be £ Railway information: Tel 42 94
seen in the architecture of the city, where vast fortunes and 36. @ Coach information: PKS
abject poverty existed side by side. Factories and opulent Tel 42 631 97 06.
mansions sprang up in their hundreds, contrasting with the
ramshackle homes of the factory workers.
hall, which dates from 1827,
Exploring Łódź when the foundations of
The city’s main thoroughfare is industry were being laid in Łódź.
Ulica Piotrkowska, which is The city’s cemeteries –
several kilometres long. Its most the Catholic and Protestant
important section stretches cemeteries in Ulica Srebrzyńska
from Plac Wolności to Aleje and the Jewish cemetery in
Piłudskiego. It is Poland’s Ulica Bracka – contain some
longest pedestrianized street exceptionally interesting
and is lined with shops, cafés, monuments that bear witness
restaurants and banks. to the variety of cultures and
Behind the town houses, nationalities that existed in Łódź
the brick factory buildings before 1939, when it was a city
still stand, many of them with one of the largest Jewish
now converted into stores. populations in Europe. The
A noteworthy example is the Colourful Art Nouveau stained-glass grand mausoleums were built
one at Piotrkowska 137/139, window in Poznański Palace for local industrialists, who
built in 1907 for the cotton before 1914 were the wealthiest
manufacturer Juliusz Monument to Tadeusz people in the Russian empire.
Kindermann by the architect Kościuszko from 1930, rebuilt The Leopold Kindermann
Gustav Landau-Gutenteger, and after its destruction in 1939 and Villa at Ulica Wólczańska 31/33
featuring a gold mosaic frieze a favourite meeting place for is another Art Nouveau building
depicting an allegory of trade. the city’s youth. Beside it stands designed by Gustav Landau-
In Plac Wolności there is a the modest Neo-Classical town Gutenteger. It was built in 1902
Old Town
NOWO
OW A
OG R OD
Church of 2 Museum of Modern Art
St Joseph
Catholic and PLAC 3 Łódź Historical Museum
Protestant WOLNOŚCI
ÓW 4 Leopold Kindermann Villa
WSCH
Cemeteries LE G IO N Town
S. ST ER
Hall 05
CJI 19
OR G AN
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Jewish
GDAŃS
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Cemetery
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Grand
KA
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Nowy JARAC Theatre
Theatre
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Museum of
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Cinematography
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M O FA
M ENH For keys to symbols see back flap
L. ZA
W I E L K O P O L S K A G R E AT E R P O L A N D 235
GDAŃSK
Gdańsk is among the finest cities of northern Europe,
distinguished by beautiful buildings and a history
that stretches back more than 1,000 years. For many
centuries the wealthiest city in Poland, it was in 1939
the place where the first shots of World War II were
fired. The end of the conflict brought destruction,
but Gdańsk recovered as settlers moved in from other
parts of Poland.
The earliest mention of Gdańsk occurs in the royal courts of Europe, and the city’s
997. For more than 300 years it was the gemstone and amber workshops won
capital of a Slav duchy in Pomerania, and great renown. From 1793 it was
in 1308 it was taken over by the Teutonic incorporated into Prussia, only becoming
Knights. Under their rule, the city grew. a free city under the Treaty of Versailles
In 1361 Gdańsk became a member of the after World War I. It was almost totally
Hanseatic League (a trade association of destroyed during World War II, but a post-
Baltic towns), further bolstering its war rebuilding programme has restored
economic development. From 1466 until many of the city’s finest buildings and
the Second Partition in 1793, the city much of its historic atmosphere.
belonged to Poland; it was the country’s Today Gdańsk, attractively set between
largest Baltic port and an important the coast and wooded hills, is renowned
centre of the grain and timber trade for its mercantile traditions and its
between Poland and the rest of Europe. openness to the world. Together with
A wealthy city, Gdańsk played a pivotal the coastal resort of Sopot and the
role in the Polish Republic (see p48). It port of Gdynia (see p269), it forms the
also became a major centre of the arts – conurbation known as Trójmiasto
goldsmiths fashioned fine jewellery for (“the Tri-City”).
JA
NA
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The most important buildings in terms of the history
KIE
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of Gdańsk are to be found in the city centre, which
STO
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can be reached by taking a bus or tram to the Main
GI
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Station (Dworzec Główny), the Highland Gate (Brama
EW
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Wyżynna) or the Podwale Przedmiejskie, and
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continuing on foot from there. The bus, tram or O
W
A
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W
urban railway (SKM) are all useful for travelling to
outlying parts of the city. You can also take the SKM
.
to reach Oliwa in the northwest, which has a fine NA
Ś WE J A
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group of cathedral buildings, one of which contains GN ZA RT
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Bay of Gdańsk
21
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LA W ENDOWA
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A I II G
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s Green Gate
ŻY TN IA
SZOPY
PRZ
IC Z
CH
ED
MI
TW
EJS
KIE P SZ E
KO
f Spichlerze Island
LA
wa
k Westerplatte
ła
ot
l Wisłoujście Fortress
M
ra
ta
S
The Church of
St Elizabeth was Small Mill
built in 1417 beside
a leprosorium, or
lepers’ sanctuary.
RA
JS
KA
KO
RZ
EL
EN
ŻB
NA
IE
TA
ŃS
CH
KA
KA
S
IA
IE
P
NA
LK
IE
M
ŁY
NY
KO
WA
GA
LSK
RN
CA
A
RS
KA
House of the
Abbots of Pelplin 3 . Great Mill
0 metres 50
Today this medieval brick
0 yards 50 mill houses a modern
shopping centre.
For hotels and restaurants see p304 and p317
GDAŃSK 241
Gdańsk Shipyard
4 . St Catherine’s The Gdańsk Shipyard is known throughout the world as the
Church birthplace of Solidarity (see p59). In December 1970, a shipyard
The memorial to workers’ strike and protests in the city were crushed by the
astronomer authorities. The next strike, in 1980, led to the establishment of
Johannes Hevelius the Independent Solidarity Trade Union. The strike leader was
(1611–87) was Lech Wałęsa, who was to become President of Poland (1990–95).
installed in 1780 Since 1989, in free market conditions, the shipyard has proved
by Daniel G. commercially unviable.
Davisson, his
great-grandson.
Key
Main entrance to the Gdańsk Shipyard
Suggested route
242 POLAND REGION BY REGION
8 Ulica Mariacka
Ulica Mariacka, regarded as
Gdańsk’s finest street, runs
eastwards from the Church of
St Mary to Długie Pobrzeże,
terminating at the Mariacka
Gate on the riverfront. Rebuilt
from the ruins that resulted
from World War II, the street
contains outstanding examples
of traditional Gdańsk
architecture. Here, town houses
that were once owned by
wealthy merchants and
goldsmiths have tall, richly
ornamented façades; others
are fronted by external raised
terraces with ornamented
parapets. It is small wonder
that this picturesque street
has for centuries inspired
writers and artists.
The neighbourly porch
gossip that once upon a time
Ulica Mariacka, once the haunt of writers and artists filled the evening air is, sadly,
no more. Today, however,
7 Gdańsk Crane out over Ulica Długie Pobrzeże, the street is a favourite haunt
ul. Szeroka 67/68. Maritime Museum: which runs alongside the of lovers as well as tourists,
Tel 58 301 69 38. Open Jul & Aug: River Motława. Once known most of whom are looking
10am–6pm daily; Sep–Nov: 10am– as the Long Bridge, it was for picturesque subjects to
4pm Tue–Sun; Dec–Jun: 10am–3pm originally a wooden foot- photograph or browsing
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 bridge that functioned as a through the amber jewellery
∑ nmm.pl quay where ships from all for which Ulica Mariacka is now
over the world tied up. celebrated. During the long
The Gdańsk crane (Żuraw), Today a fleet of yachts summer evenings, a number
icon of the city, is one of its and small pleasure boats of musicians provide free
finest buildings and a medieval offering trips around open-air concerts, and
structure almost unique in the harbour in the the welcoming street
Europe. Built in the 14th century Port of Gdańsk is cafés stay open until
and renovated in 1442–4, moored here. late at night.
when it acquired its present
appearance, it combined the
functions of a city gate and a
port crane.
The crane, an entirely wooden
structure, is set between two
circular brick towers. It was
operated by men working the
huge treadmills within, and was
capable of lifting weights of up
to 2 tonnes to a height of 27 m
(90 ft). The crane was used not
only to load and unload goods
but also in fitting masts to ships.
The crane was destroyed by
fire in 1945. As part of the
rebuilding programme after
World War II it was repaired and
reconstructed, together with its
internal mechanism. It is now
part of the collection of the
National Maritime Museum (see
p251). The Crane Tower looks The Gdańsk Crane, a medieval building almost unique in Europe
244 POLAND REGION BY REGION
9 Church of St Mary
The Church of St Mary (Kościół Mariacki) is the
largest medieval brick-built church in Europe.
Building work began in 1343 and took 150 years to . Astronomical
Clock
complete. The final stage of construction, involving The clock, made by
the 100-m (325-ft) long nave, was carried out by Hans Dürunger in
Henryk Hetzel. From 1529 to 1945, when it was 1464–70, shows the
destroyed, St Mary’s was a Protestant church. Like hour and also the
days, dates of
so many other parts of Gdańsk, it was rebuilt after moveable feasts
World War II. The interior contains furnishings in the and phases of the
Gothic, Mannerist and Baroque styles. Look out for moon. At noon a
the memorial tablets to prominent local families. procession of figures
representing Adam
and Eve, the Apostles,
the Three Kings and
. Tablet of Charity Death appears.
This ornate panel, made
by Anton Möller in
1607, once hung over
the church collection
box. Its purpose was
to encourage
churchgoers to be
generous.
Gothic Sacrarium
The sacrarium, in the
shape of an open-work
tower decorated with
pinnacles, is over The façade of the Dutch Mannerist Arsenal
8 m (26 ft) high. seen from Targ Węglowy
q Arsenal
ul. Targ Węglowy 6. Academy of
Fine Arts: Tel 58 301 28 01.
∑ asp.gda.pl
A
SK
AC
AR
TK
YK
w Highland Gate
KT
ZA
LE
decoration with
IC
TN
inscriptions and
LE
sculptures in the
WA
Italian Renaissance KA
TO
Y
and northern
AR
Mannerist style.
CZ
RB
PO
GA
r Golden Gate
This ceremonial gateway
to the city, made in 1612–
14 and surmounted by
allegorical sculptures,
embodies the spirit of
Gdańsk’s golden age.
e Prison Tower
This was once used to hold prisoners
sentenced to death. The tower
currently houses the Amber Museum.
u . Uphagen House
Key The interior of this restored town
Suggested route house features 18th-century
Rococo panelling, which survived
wartime destruction.
For hotels and restaurants see p304 and p317
GDAŃSK 247
i . Main
Town Hall
The Allegory of Justice
by Hans Vredeman
de Vries decorates
the main council
chamber, also known
as the Red Room.
Locator Map
See pp238–9
p . Artus Court
The bench of the Brotherhood of St
Christopher, in this meeting house for
dignitaries, is adorned with the story
of Lot and his daughter by Laurentius
Lauenstein.
y Ulica Długa
Rebuilt after wartime
destruction, this is the main
street of old Gdańsk.
a Golden House
The unusual façade of the house was once
completely covered in gilt stone carvings.
A
SK
ER
NI
s Green Gate
ś
This building in
KU
DŁ the Mannerist
UG
I T style was the
A
AR
CZ
G official residence
NI
of the Polish
kings when they
W
łA
came to Gdańsk
KA
on state visits.
ŃS
ZA
ZC
ES
MI
Fountain of
Neptune
o Długi Targ
0 metres 100
When the street was rebuilt
0 yards 100 after World War II, the houses
and their stepped terraces
were reconstructed.
248 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Looking down Ulica Długa from the The house that originally stood The city’s first town hall was
Golden Gate to Długi Targ at Ulica Długa 12 was acquired built after 1298 on the orders of
by Johann Uphagen, a town Świętopełk II, Duke of Gdańsk-
y Ulica Długa councillor, in 1775. He had it Pomerania. It functioned as an
demolished, and a new office of the Hanseatic League.
Today, as in the past, Ulica Długa residence was built in its place. Work on the current building
(“Long Street”) is the Main The architect, Johann Benjamin was begun in 1327. An elegant
Town’s principal thoroughfare. Dreyer, completed the project tower was added in 1486–8,
The houses that line the street in 1787. The result was an during one of several phases of
were once inhabited by the attractive building combining rebuilding. After a fire in 1556,
foremost burghers of Gdańsk, Baroque, Rococo and early this Gothic town hall was
and virtually every one has its Neo-Classical features. remodelled in the Mannerist
own colourful history. The sole ornamentation of style. The interior was lavishly
Although the oldest surviving the restrained façade is the decorated in 1593–1608 by the
houses on the street date Rococo decoration to the door, most prominent painters and
from the Middle Ages, most which is inscribed with the craftsmen of the day, including
were built during the heyday initial A, for Abigail, the owner’s Hans Vredeman de Vries, Izaak
of the Hanseatic League. wife. The interiors, featuring van den Blocke and Simon
With their narrow façades Rococo and Neo-Classical Herle. Their combined genius
crowned by a variety of elements, are splendid. produced one of the finest
elements – from coats of arms town halls in all of northern
and symbols to animals, Europe, proof of the city’s
allegorical figures and the wealth and power. It also
heroes of classical mythology – served as a royal residence.
the houses on Ulica Długa are The highlight of the town
typical of the architecture of hall is without doubt the Red
Gdańsk. Unfortunately, when Room, which was once the
they were modernized in the Great Council Chamber. The
mid-19th century, all the Renaissance fireplace is by
stepped terraces that originally Willem van der Meer and the
fronted the entrances to the centrepiece of the ceiling
houses were removed. paintings is the Apotheosis
After the carnage of World of Gdańsk by Izaak van den
War II, almost every building on Blocke. After being destroyed
Ulica Długa was left in ruins. in 1945, the town hall was
Many of the houses were later rebuilt and many of its
reconstructed, but only the furnishings reconstructed. It
finest buildings were rebuilt in The Rococo doorway of now houses the Museum of
architectural detail. Uphagen House the History of Gdańsk.
250 POLAND REGION BY REGION
o Długi Targ court came to discuss the issues most impressive feature of the
of the day and to enjoy the fine house is its façade, which is
Długi Targ, a broad short street beer that was served there in covered in intricate gilt carvings,
that runs on from Ulica Długa unlimited quantities. The first and which fortunately escaped
and terminates at the Green Artus Court in Gdańsk the fires that ravaged the
Gate on the River Motława, was established in the building in 1945.
is the final part of the 14th century, but Today the building houses the
Royal Way leading from the original Maritime Institute. Local people
the Golden Gate building was claim that it is haunted; in one
through to the city destroyed by of the corridors the shining
centre. It also fire in 1477. The present figure of the former lady of the
functioned as a building opened in 1481. Its house, Maria Judyta Speimann,
marketplace as well rear elevation preserves is said to appear and can be
as a site for the public the building’s original heard whispering the words
execution of Gothic style, but the “A just deed fears no man”.
aristocratic prisoners. façade was twice rebuilt,
The town houses on first in 1552 and again in
Długi Targ, like those Fountain of 1616–17 by Abraham van
s Green Gate
elsewhere in the Neptune in Długi den Blocke. The interior ul. Długi Targ 24. Tel 58 307 59 12.
old town, were Targ furnishings were renewed Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
destroyed in 1945 several times, funded Sat & Sun. & ∑ mng.gda.pl
but have been restored. Today mainly by individual fraternities,
the square is filled with souvenir who would gather for meetings With its pinnacled roof and
shops. Its focal point is the seated on benches along the elaborate decorative stonework,
Fountain of Neptune, which walls of the court. Despite the Green Gate hardly
was installed outside Artus wartime destruction, resembles the usual city gate –
Court in 1633. reconstruction has succeeded it is more like a mansion. There
in re-creating something of the is good reason for this, because
court’s historic atmosphere. the gate was intended to serve
A highlight of the interior as a residence for visiting
is the intricately decorated royalty. In the event it was used
16th-century Renaissance in this way only once – when
tiled stove, 12 m (40 ft) high. Maria Louisa Gonzaga arrived in
Gdańsk from France in order
to marry Władysław IV in 1646.
a Golden House The gate was designed in the
ul. Długi Targ 41. Closed to the public. Mannerist style by the architect
Johann Kramer from Dresden,
The Golden House, also known and built in 1564–8 by Regnier
as Speimann House or Steffens from Amsterdam. Its windows
House after its owners, was built provide a magnificent view of
in 1609–18 for Jan Speimann, Ulica Długi Targ and the town
mayor of Gdańsk and a wealthy hall in one direction, and the
merchant and patron of the River Motława and Spichlerze
arts, and his wife Maria Judyta. Island in the other.
St George killing the Dragon, a carving The architect was Abraham van The Green Gate now houses
of 1485 in Artus Court den Blocke, who also executed a branch of the National
some of the stone carving. The Museum (see p253).
p Artus Court
ul. Długi Targ 44. Museum: Tel 58
767 91 80. Open 11am–3pm Tue,
10am–4pm Wed–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun.
& (free on Tue). ^ d = m
Period Gdańsk
This reconstruction of a
merchant’s office is in
the Harbour Town Life
exhibition. It is part of
the display in the
Gdańsk Crane.
Sołdek
The Sołdek, the first
Polish ocean-going ship
Maritime to be built after World
Culture Centre War II, was built in the
Gdańsk Shipyard in 1948.
Its holds are now used
for exhibitions.
Museum Guide
The museum consists of several buildings
either side of the River Motława, with the
head office on Ołowianka Island. There is a
Polish naval exhibition in the Gdańsk
Crane. Skład Kolonialny hosts a collection
of boats from distant parts of the world.
The exhibition in the granaries is dedicated
to Poland and Gdańsk at sea from the
Middle Ages to the present.
Ferry
An easy way from one
building to another is by ferry.
The National Museum is laid out mainly in a former Gothic Practical Information
Franciscan monastery of 1422–1522. It contains a wealth of ul. Toruńska 1. Tel 58 301 70 61.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Jun–
artifacts, from wrought-iron grilles to sculpture and painting. Aug: noon–7pm Thu; Oct–Apr:
The museum’s most prized piece is The Last Judgement by the 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
Flemish painter Hans Memling (c.1430–94). In 1473, it was Sat, Sun). & (free Fri). 9 0
plundered by privateers ∑ mng.gda.pl
Museum Guide
The exhibits on the ground floor
include Gothic art and gold
jewellery. The first floor has more
recent paintings. The upper floor
displays temporary exhibitions.
“The
Griffin’s
Talons”
This bison-
horn cup Longcase Clock
was made A Rococo clock made
in the 15th c.1750 is decorated with
century and scenes from the biblical story
belonged to a of Tobias and the Raising of
sailing fraternity. the Copper Snake.
Key
Pomeranian medieval art
Goldsmithery
Metalwork
Gdańsk and northern European
furniture, 15th–18th centuries
Ceramics
Dutch and Flemish painting
Gdańsk painting, 16th–18th
centuries
Polish painting, 19th and 20th
centuries
19th-century Gdańsk artists
(temporary exhibitions)
Furniture-making in Gdańsk
and eastern Pomerania in the
18th century
The Last Judgement
254 POLAND REGION BY REGION
j Oliwa Cathedral
Oliwa, a district to the northwest of Gdańsk, was
once the base of wealthy Cistercians, who built a
cathedral and monastery here. The present cathedral,
built in the 14th century in the Gothic style, replaced
the original 13th-century Romanesque church that
was destroyed by fire in 1350. While the exterior has
survived without major alteration, the interior has
been redecorated in the Baroque style. Its famous Mannerist Stalls
The stalls in the chancel, decorated
organ can be heard in recitals. The monastery with bas-reliefs of the Apostles, were
buildings are now occupied by branches of the made in 1604.
Diocesan, Ethnographical and
Contemporary Art museums.
Oliwa Park, with lakes and
wooded hills, is a pleasant
place for a walk.
Main
entrance
. Organ Loft
The organ loft was made
KEY by local Cistercian monks in
1763–88. The organ, made
1 The former high altar, built by Jan Wulff and Fryderyk
in 1604–6, has a depiction of the Rudolf Dalitz and completed
Holy Trinity. in 1793, was the largest in
Europe at the time.
For hotels and restaurants see p304 and p317
GDAŃSK 255
Practical Information
Fortress
ul. Biskupa Edmunda ul. Stara Twierdza 1. Tel 58 531 22
Nowockiego 5. Tel 58 552 47 65. 44. @ 106, 606. Open Oct–Apr:
Open daily. Organ recitals: noon 9am–4pm daily. ∑ mhmg.gda.pl
Mon–Sat, 3pm Sun (Jun–Aug:
11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm, 4pm Fortifications were first built on
Mon–Sat, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Sun).
this strategic point at the mouth
Transport of the River Vistula in the time of
£ v 2, 6, 11, 12. @ 117, 122, the Teutonic Knights. Work on
169, 171, 179, 622. the construction of a brick
tower began in 1482. From
here, a duty was levied on
passing ships using a simple
enforcement method that was
The Monument to the Defenders of impossible to avoid – a chain
Westerplatte was stretched across the river,
preventing the ship’s passage,
k Westerplatte and released only when the
@ 106, 138, 606. Ferries in summer captain had made the required
season at Green Gate. Guardhouse payment. Equipped with a
Portrait Gallery
No. 1 Museum: ul. Mjr. H. brazier in which a fire was lit,
Portraits of Polish kings
and Pomeranian dukes, Sucharskiego. Tel 58 767 91 64. the tower was also used as
the founders and Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily (Jun– a lighthouse.
benefactors of the Sep: to 7pm). ∑ mhmg.gda.pl In 1562–3 the tower was
cathedral, hang in the surrounded by a system of
presbytery. It was at Westerplatte that the defences, and afterwards was
They were first shots of World War II were repeatedly fortified and
painted by fired, on 1 September 1939. The refortified as military technology
Hermann German battleship Schleswig advanced. In 1586–7 the entire
Hahn in 1613. Holstein opened fire on Polish complex was reinforced by four
ammunition dumps in the Free bastions, designed by Antonis
City of Gdańsk. The Germans van Opbergen and Jan
expected the capture of the Strakowski, and an outer moat
Westerplatte to take a matter of was added. This was followed
hours, but the 182-man garrison by the addition of a ditch in
under Major Henryk Sucharski 1624–6. Also in the 17th
resisted for seven days, their century, 15 tall barrack buildings
heroism becoming a symbol of were added around the now-
Polish resistance in the struggle ageing tower.
against the Nazi invasion. Over the following years,
Today, ruined barracks and constant building, often by
concrete bunkers, together prominent fortification engineers
with a huge Monument to the of the time, steadily enlarged the
Defenders of Westerplatte fortress. It withstood several
unveiled in 1966, bear witness sieges and was often used to
to that struggle. accommodate visiting royalty.
. High Altar
The altar itself is thought to be by
Andreas Schlüter. It was decorated
by Andreas Stech with images of
the Virgin and St Bernard, patrons
of the monastery at Oliwa. Wisłoujście Fortress, which once defended the mouth of the River Vistula
POLAND REGION BY REGION 257
POMERANIA
Beautiful beaches and the resorts of the Baltic are
Pomerania’s main attractions, which every summer
draw large numbers of holiday-makers in search of
sand and sun. A less crowded but equally attractive
aspect of the region are the Drawsko Lakes and the
alpine scenery of Szwajcaria Kaszubska, west of Gdańsk.
Polish Pomerania is divided into the Pomerania became first Prussian, then
two regions of Western and Eastern German, territory. It was returned to
Pomerania, each with an ethnically Poland in 1945.
diverse population. The border between Eastern Pomerania was Christianized in
the two regions is in the districts of the 10th century. Although it originally
Bytów and Lębork. belonged to Poland, it became an
Christianity was introduced to Western independent duchy from the 12th
Pomerania by Bishop Otto of Bamberg, century. Overrun by the Teutonic Knights
who founded a bishopric in Wolin in 1140. in 1306, it then enjoyed strong economic
The Duchy of Pomerania, established in development. In 1466, after the Second
the 12th century, maintained its Peace of Toruń, areas of Eastern
independence for several centuries and Pomerania, including Royal Prussia, were
secured its economic development ceded to Poland. However, during the
through the strength of its port cities, Partitions of Poland (see p52), Eastern
which were part of the Hanseatic League. Pomerania became part of Prussia. It was
The Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) and the finally returned to Poland in 1919. Gdańsk
death of the last duke of the Gryfici was given the status of a free city and
dynasty brought this independence only became part of Poland in 1945.
to an end. Most of Western Pomerania Pomerania’s landscape was formed
came under the rule of Brandenburg, by the movement of glaciers. Its hilly
while Szczecin and the surrounding countryside with small, clear lakes
area was engulfed by Sweden until 1713. and its varied Baltic coastline make
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Western the region outstandingly beautiful.
Malbork Castle, the great fortress of the Teutonic Knights, on the River Nogat
A sandy beach fringed by pine trees along the Baltic Sea
258 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Exploring Pomerania
Pomerania is one of Poland’s most attractive
regions, and in summer resorts such as
Międzyzdroje, Kołobrzeg, Ustka, Łeba
and Sopot teem with sunbathers and
watersports enthusiasts. The most popular
holiday spots are on the Hel Peninsula,
where swimmers can choose between the
open waters of the Baltic Sea or the calm
of the Gulf of Gdańsk. For sightseeing at
A half-timbered house, typical of the Gdańsk region,
a slower pace there are the villages of in Różyny
Kashubia. The shady, tree-lined lanes in the
region of Słupsk and Koszalin make for
enjoyable cycle tours, while the clean rivers
are attractive for canoeing. Those with an A
interest in history will not be disappointed S E
with the great variety of historic buildings,
DARŁOWO
from castles and cathedrals to small village C
churches and the stately houses of old L T I
seaside resorts. B A Koszalin
KOŁOBRZEG
Kamień
Pomeranian Pomorski Karlino Białogard
Getting Around Bay
D WOLIN Bobolice
Szczecin and Gdańsk can be OUN
Świnoujście AR
reached by air (see pp344–5). Wolin
Płoty Świdwin Polczyn-Zdrój
The best way to tour
Pomerania is by car. The E28 ZACHODNIO-POMORSKIE
connects Gdańsk with Słupsk,
DRAWSKO
Koszalin and Szczecin. Parallel Goleniów LAKES
Drawsko Czaplinek
to it but further to the south is Pomorskie
route 22, which is part of the Złocieniec
old German A1 from Berlin to SZCZECIN
Kaliningrad (Królewiec). The STARGARD Mirosławiec
E75 goes south from Gdańsk SZCZECIŃSKI
a
Pomorski
cities have rail links. In the Gulf Pyrzyce
Choszczno
of Gdańsk there are also
ferries to Sopot and Hel.
Lipiany
Chojna
Myślibórz Strzelce
Krajeńskie
Mieszkowice Dębno
Gorzów Wielkopolski
rt a
Kostrzyn Wa Poznań
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Regional border
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Gdański
UB
SH
BYTÓW
KA
Kościerzyna Tczew
Czersk GNIEW
KWIDZYN
a
tul
Szczecinek Br
d
Vis
Człuchów Chojnice
a
Gw d
Tuchola
Wd
Olsztyn
a
Kamień
Krajeński GRUDZIĄDZ
Jabłonowo
Świecie Pomorskie
Koronowo CHEŁMNO
Więcbork Brodnica
KUJAWSKO-POMORSKIE
Piła Chełmża
BYDGOSZCZ GOLUB-DOBRZYŃ
Poznań TORUŃ
Lipno
CIECHOCINEK
Vistu
Włocławek la
Łódź Płock
Sights at a Glance
1 Szczecin pp260–61 w Gdynia a Toruń pp276–9
3 Stargard Szczeciński e Sopot s Golub-Dobrzyń
4 Drawsko Lakes r Malbork pp270–71 d Ciechocinek
5 Kołobrzeg t Pelplin
6 Darłowo y Gniew
Tours
7 Słupsk u Kwidzyn 2 Around Wolin
8 Słowiński National Park i Grudziądz 0 Kashubia
9 Bytów o Chełmno pp274–5
q Hel Peninsula p Bydgoszcz
1 Szczecin
Szczecin, on the river Odra, is a major port even though it is
more than 65 km (40 miles) from the sea. It serves both
ocean-going vessels and river traffic, and is linked with Berlin
by the Odra and by canals. A castle and a fishing village
existed here in the 9th century. Szczecin was granted a
municipal charter in 1243 and soon after it joined the
Hanseatic League. It became the capital of a Pomeranian
duchy and in 1673–1713 was overrun by the Swedes. Under
Prussian rule it became a major port. The city suffered
severely during World War II; post-war restoration has
The Gate of Prussian Homage, once known
been confined to its more important buildings. as the Royal Gate
Ulica Wały Chrobrego, with the Maritime Museum and local government offices in the distance
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
POMERANIA 261
E Castle Museum
ul. Korsarzy 34. Tel 91 489 16 30.
Open 10am–6pm Fri–Wed. 8
∑ zamek.szczecin.pl
This museum is housed in
the former crypt of the dukes
of Pomerania. Among the Portal of the Cathedral of St James
exhibits are the tin coffins of
the last of the Gryfici dynasty, E Szczecin History Museum
and a special exhibition on the ul. Mściwoja 8. Tel 91 431 52 59. Open
Loitz House, once the home of a history and the restoration of 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Sat; 10am–8pm
family of bankers the castle. Thu; 10am–4pm Sun. & (free Sat).
SZ ŻN A
ŃS
C BO I TA
4 Maritime Museum ZE
ZY
RB PO W
RO
AR
PLAC C
AD A M A O JA
5 Tower of the Seven Cloaks
ST
W
MI C KI E W I C Z A A
Maritime
6 Castle of the Dukes of
ILA
Museum
A
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9 Cathedral of St James
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A Tower of the K O W
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Bus station
KURKOW
SZY NOWY
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Train station KI W
EG A A E
500 m (550 yards) O OJ SK E Ż
IW NA AŃ R Z
ŚC N RZ A B
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Church of IEL
0 metres 300 W
a
St John dr
O
0 yards 300
J Kołczewo
is one of the finest in Poland.
3 Międzyzdroje
This renowned
health resort was
Lake Wicko
created in 1830. It has Wielkie
a seafront promenade J
and a pier from which J
the cliffs can be
admired. It is also a J
good base for hiking
in Wolin National Park.
1 Wolin
2 Świnoujście In the early Middle
The town straddles Ages this small town
Poland’s two islands – was a major Baltic
Wolin and Uznam. The port. Today it is the
only way of moving venue for the Viking
between the two parts of Festival that takes
the town is by ferry. It has place every July as a
a large port, wide beaches reminder of the
and the elegant buildings settlement’s historic
of a coastal resort. importance (see p39).
Key
Tour route
Lake Other road
Wrzosowskie
• Międzywodzie Trzebiatów
Kamienski
Lagoon
W oł cz a
Gryfice
Ni
em
0 km 5
ica
0 miles 5
Kukułowo
6 Kamień Pomorski
•
W
oł
cz The town was the seat
en
nica
ica
of a bishopric from
zyb
6 Darłowo
Road map B1. * 14,300. @ £
n ul. Zamkowa 4 (94 314 35 72).
∑ darlowo.pl
The narrow Hel Peninsula, separating Puck Bay from the Baltic Sea
268 POLAND REGION BY REGION
0 Kashubia
A trip to the part of Kashubia known as Szwajcaria
Kaszubska (“Kashubian Switzerland”) is a chance to
experience the culture of a people who have inhabited
this area for centuries. The Kashubian Museum in
Kartuzy has a collection of original embroidery, toys
and snuffboxes carved from horn, there are working 1 Kartuzy
potteries in Chmielno and in Wdzydze Kiszewskie there The town takes its name from
is a skansen with traditional Kashubian cottages. the Carthusians, who founded a
monastery here in the 1380s. The
2 Chmielno
collegiate church still stands. The
This village has several Kashubian Museum re-creates
workshops producing the daily life of the region.
traditional Kashubian
pottery. Potters can be Wejherowo
seen at work, and their
products are for sale.
Stężyca 6 Wieżyca
At 331 m (1,090 ft)
above sea level, this
is the highest point
Bytów
in Kashubia. Its
Gdańsk slopes are popular
for skiing in winter.
Zblewo
Wdzydze
Tucholskie
•
Fishing boats at the beach in Sopot For keys to symbols see back flap
POMERANIA 269
The Grand Hotel in Sopot, overlooking the beach and the Gulf of Gdańsk
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
270 POLAND REGION BY REGION
r Malbork
Malbork, the castle of the Teutonic Knights, was begun
in the 13th century. In 1309 it was made capital of an
independent state established by the order. The first
major phase of building was the Assembly Castle, a
fortified monastery later known as the Upper Castle.
The Middle Castle was built some time after 1310, and
the Palace of the Grand Master was begun in 1382–99
by Konrad Zöllner von Rotenstein. In 1457 the castle was
taken by Poland and used as a fortress. It was restored
in the 19th century, and again after World War II.
Summer Refectory
It has double rows of windows
and late Gothic palm vaulting
supported on a granite central
column. The Winter Refectory
adjoins it on its eastern side.
. Palace of the
Grand Master
The grandeur of the
four-storey palace
was almost without
equal in medieval
Europe.
. Golden Gate
Built in the late 13th century,
this gate is enclosed by a
porch. The keystone in the
vaulting is carved with the
figure of Christ.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D1. * 40,000.
n ul. Kościuszki 54 (55 647 14
30) (summer). Castle Museum:
ul. Starościńska 1. Tel 55 647
Lower Castle
09 78. Open 9am–7pm daily
These partly reconstructed farm buildings, abutting the former
(Oct–Apr: 10am–3pm). Closed
Chapel of St Lawrence, have been converted into a hotel.
1 Jan, 8 Apr, 1 Nov, 25 Dec.
Courtyard: Open 1 hr longer.
& 8 0 = m Son et
Lumière show: 1 May–15 Sep.
∑ zamek.malbork.pl
Transport
@£
Battlements
A good view of the towers and walls surrounding
the castle can be had from the east side.
Teutonic Knight
The Teutonic Knights,
or the Knights of the
Teutonic Order of the
Hospital of St Mary in
Jerusalem, had a strict
monastic code. In battle
they were distinguished
by the black crosses on
their white cloaks.
Chapel of St Anne
Built in 1331–44 beneath the
choir of the Church of St Mary,
this chapel contains the tombs
of eleven Grand Masters.
272 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Gniew seen from the River Vistula, framed by the Church of St Nicholas and the castle of the Teutonic Knights
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
POMERANIA 273
i Grudziądz
Road map: D2. * 97,000. £ @
n 56 461 23 18. ∑ grudziadz.pl
Grudziądz, situated on an
escarpment overlooking the
River Vistula, was once a major
port. It was founded by the
Teutonic Knights and became
part of Poland in 1466. As a
result of the Partitions of
Poland, it became part of
Prussia from 1772 and in 1918
was returned to Poland.
Despite the damage it suffered
Kwidzyn Cathedral, seat of the bishops of Pomerania in the 13th century during World War II, the town
has some fine buildings. The
In summer the castle hosts including a late Gothic bishop’s Gothic Church of St Nicholas
festivals, jousting tournaments throne of about 1510 and (Kościoł św. Mikołaja) was
and reconstructions of Baroque altars and tombs. The begun in the late 13th century
medieval banquets. presbytery gives access to the and completed in the second
tiny cell of the Blessed Dorothy half of the 15th. It contains a
E Castle Museum of Mątowy, who ordered that late Romanesque font from
ul. Zamkowa 3. Tel 58 535 25 37. she be immured there in 1393. the 14th century. The former
Open Apr–Nov: 10am–4:30pm By the north nave is the Benedictine abbey, including
Tue–Sun. 8 0 Baroque chapel of Otto the Palace of the Abbesses of
∑ zamek-gniew.pl Frederick von Groeben, which 1749–51, is also of interest. Part
R Church of St Nicholas contains a tomb depicting the of the abbey now houses a
ul. Okrzei 4. Tel 58 535 22 16. deceased accompanied in museum and art gallery.
death by his three wives. The huge complex of
The castle resembles a harbour granaries, 26 brick
u Kwidzyn knights’ fortress, although it buildings built side by side
Road map: D2. * 37,000. was in fact the seat of a chapter. along the waterfront, fulfilled
£ @ ∑ kwidzyn.pl It was built in 1322–47 and a defensive function as well as
partially demolished in the being used for storage – seen
From 1243 until 1525, the small 18th century. Among the from the river, the granaries
town of Kwidzyn was the capital interesting features of the castle appear to surround the entire
of the Pomezania bishopric, are the well tower and the hillside. They were built
one of four to be established exceptionally tall latrine tower, mostly in the 17th and 18th
in the territory ruled by the which is connected to the centuries, but some are
Teutonic Knights. After the castle by a gallery supported significantly older.
order was dissolved, the town on large arches.
passed in turn to Prussia, E Grudziądz Museum
Germany and Poland. E Castle Museum ul. Wodna 3/5. Tel 56 465 90 63. Open
The cathedral standing on a ul. Katedralna 1. Tel 55 646 37 80 from 10am Tue–Sun; closing times
high escarpment and the castle or 646 37 97. Open 9am–5pm vary (see website). & (free on Tue).
attached to it are fine examples Tue–Sun. & ∑ muzeum.grudziadz.pl
of Gothic architecture. The
cathedral was built in the 14th
century on the site of an earlier
church, of which only the
narthex (a portico or porch
separated from the nave by
a screen) remains. The porch
dates from 1264–84.
In 1862–4 the cathedral was
remodelled in the Neo-Gothic
style by Friedrich August Stüler.
The interior of this vast pseudo-
basilica has Gothic murals,
which unfortunately were
excessively repainted in the
19th century. Many of the earlier
furnishings are still in place, The granaries in Grudziądz
274 POLAND REGION BY REGION
KA
RY
ŃS KA
6 Church of St James RS
UR
KA CE
NK
NI RY
NA
MI
7 Church of St John
OW
DO Grudziądz
RY
Gate
the Baptist
BA
D 1 km (0.6 mile)
Church of Houses ZIĄ
A
Church of Town UD
St James GR
PO
St John Hall
WO
KL
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the Baptist
AS
ZE
DN
ZT
CZ
A
FR
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NA
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NA
IA
PIA ZN
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KU Chełmno ST
BIS Academy 22
ZK
Church of
AŃ
the Assumption
SK
NA
A
OL
TO
SZK
RU
ŃS
Church of A
KA
St Martin CH
U
D
św. Jana Chrzciciela), built in monastery with a church of her time. She remained a spinster,
1290–1340. It has two storeys, 1545–52, and the Church and reputedly because of her ugly
the lower one having two naves, Convent of the Poor Clares appearance. Today the castle
and the upper a single nave that (Kościół Klarysek), which today hosts such events as jousting
was reserved for the choir of the houses a Regional Museum. The tournaments and oratory
Order of Teutonic Knights. half-timbered granaries on the competitions, as well as New
banks of the Brda, built in the 18th Year’s balls, at which revellers say
E Chełmno Museum and 19th centuries, were used for that the ghost of Queen Anna
Rynek. Tel 56 686 16 41. Open the salt and wheat that the town appears. By ironic coincidence,
10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat, traded and to store the beer for the Miss Poland beauty contests
11am–3pm Sun (Mar–Nov). & which it was renowned. are also held here.
p Bydgoszcz a Toruń
Road map C2. * 359,000. £ @ See pp276–9.
n ul. Stefana Batorego 2 (52 340 45
50). _ Bydgoszcz Music Festival
(Sep); Musica Antiqua Europae
s Golub-Dobrzyń
Orientalis (every 3 years, Sep). Road map D2. * 12,800. £ @
∑ bydgoszcz.pl n 56 683 54 10. _ International
Jousting Tournament (Jul). Graduation tower for the production of
Bydgoszcz lies at the confluence ∑ golub-dobrzyn.pl salt in Ciechocinek
of the River Brda and the
Bydgoszcz Canal, which then This picturesque town was d Ciechocinek
flow into the Vistula. The city originally two separate Road map D3. * 11,000. £ @
was only briefly part of the state settlements, one on either side n ul. Zdrojowa 2 (54 416 01 60).
of the Teutonic Knights, after of the River Drwęca. During the _ Festival of Kujawy and Dobrzyń
which its fate was linked with Partitions, Golub was part of Folklore (Jul); International Festival
that of the rest of Poland. It was Prussia and Dobrzyń part of of Gypsy Song and Culture (Aug).
the scene of dramatic events Russia. Golub’s main feature is the ∑ ciechocinek.pl
on 3 September 1939, when large castle built by the Teutonic
the town’s German minority Knights in 1293– 1310. From Ciechocinek is one of Poland’s
attempted to stage a coup. 1466 Golub was part of Poland, best-known spa towns, which
The Nazis entered the town and in the 17th century the castle grew and prospered thanks to its
and massacred thousands became the residence of Queen iodine-rich salt springs. It is not
of the Polish population. Anna Vasa of Sweden, sister of strictly part of Pomerania but of
The old town of Bydgoszcz is Zygmunt III Vasa. The castle was Kujawy, and has always been a
set on a bend of the Brda. It has rebuilt for her in 1616–23 in the Polish town. The town came into
several monumental town Renaissance style. Highly being in 1824, when Stanisław
houses, the late Gothic church educated and with an interest Staszic started to build saltworks
of Saints Nicholas and Martin in botany and natural medicine, and the first of three salt
(Kościół św. Mikołaja i Marcina) Anna Vasa was an graduation towers. The “towers”
and two monasteries: a Bernadine unusual woman for are huge wooden frames filled
with thorny brushwood which,
washed with brine, accumulates
salt crystals. Each “tower” is more
than 1.7 km (1 mile) wide.
Other features of Ciechocinek
are the group of baths built in a
variety of styles between 1845
and 1913, a fine park with a flower
clock, a pump room designed by
Edward Cichocki, a bandstand and
open-air theatre, and numerous
elegant boarding houses,
sanatoria and hotels dating from
The castle built by the Teutonic Knights in Golub-Dobrzyń the start of the 20th century.
For hotels and restaurants see p305and pp317–19
276 POLAND REGION BY REGION
a Toruń
Toruń’s principal claim to fame is as the birthplace of the
astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus (see p279), but it is also
renowned for its architecture. The city was founded by the
Teutonic Knights in 1233 and quickly became a major centre
of trade; in 1454, when its citizens rebelled against the
knights’ rule, it passed to the kings of Poland. The old town
of Toruń, picturesquely situated on the banks of the River
Vistula, retains its medieval street plan, and has a rare calm,
since most of the streets are closed to traffic.
Ethnographical
Museum
O
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KO RSK
. SI
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PLAC WA
TEATRALNY
Wilam
GO
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The Wilam Horzyca Theatre SK Theatre
K OR DM
SI UR
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F Wilam Horzyca Theatre GE
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CH
ŁY
EŁ
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The delightful theatre, in FRANC SK
ŃS
EW
SZ
KA
Virgin Mary
Neo-Baroque elements, was Museum
PIEK
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A
RI
Y MA OLD MARKET
built in 1904 by the Viennese PA NN SQUARE
of Far East Art
ARY
Town Hall
and Hermann Helmer. The Church of
OMIE
RÓŻ
held here each year in early Cathedral of SS
summer, bringing together TOWN John the Baptist and
AL.
RAPACKIEGO
ŻEG
ŁAJA
over Europe and drawing large MIKO Copernicus
A ŚW
House JANA
LAR
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and enthusiastic audiences
PA W
PIEK
IĘ
POD
SKA
TEGO
KA
WĄ W
Palace of the
IEŻ Ą
Bishops of Kujawy
R Church of the Virgin Mary Crooked B A N K O WA
O
W EN
RZ
ST NI
A CZ Church of building with an internal
TA
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St Catherine
courtyard, was erected in 1391–9
.
A
ŚW
N
A
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LN
TA
ZM
Children’s
PI
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Art Gallery
SZ
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AŁ
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St James van Opbergen added the third
BA ŚW
NEW MARKET
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LO
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SK
NA
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WIELKIE
KA GAR B A RY
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city of Toruń.
ZE
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BU former bakery and wool stalls
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NA
R Cathedral of Saints
John the Baptist and
John the Evangelist
ul. Żeglarska 16. Tel 56 657 14 80.
The origins of the Cathedral
of Saints John the Baptist and
John the Evangelist (Kościoł
św. Janów) go back to 1250.
The oldest surviving part of
the cathedral is the presbytery.
The nave, with its numerous
side chapels, was completed
by Hans Gotland in about
1500, long after the tower
had been finished in 1433.
The interior is a treasury of
art. The presbytery contains
A room in the Copernicus House some fine 16th-century mural
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
TORUŃ 279
R Church of St James
Nicolaus Copernicus ul. Rynek Nowomiejski 6.
Nicolaus Copernicus (Mikołaj Kopernik; Tel 56 622 29 24.
1473–1543), astronomer, mathematician, The Gothic Church of St James
economist, doctor and clergyman, was (Kościoł św. Jakuba) was built
born in Toruń. For most of his life he in the first half of the 14th
lived in Warmia. He wrote treatises century as the new town’s
on economics, but gained the parish church. It was first used
greatest renown for his astronomical by Cistercian monks, and then
observations. His heliocentric theory of by Benedictines. It contains
the universe, which he expounded in wall paintings of the second
De Revolutionibus Orbium Celestium half of the 14th century. In the
(1543), posited the fact that the planets Renaissance epitaph to south aisle is a late 14th-century
rotate around the Sun. Copernicus in Toruń Gothic crucifix in the form of
the Tree of Life, in which the
figure of Christ is nailed to the
paintings. There are also altars, that acted as a sewer – were branches of a tree containing
chandeliers, stained-glass left standing, although part the figures of the prophets.
windows, sculpture and many of the cellars and cloisters Above the rood beam is a
paintings. In one of the side survive. The late Gothic house rare depiction of the Passion of
chapels in the south aisle is that was built on the site in about 1480–90, consisting
the Gothic font where Nicolaus 1489, probably with materials of 22 scenes of the Stations of
Copernicus was baptized scavenged from the castle, the Cross.
and a memorial to him from was the meeting place of
about 1580. He was buried in the Brotherhood of St George.
Frombork Cathedral (see p284).
P New Market Square
+ Castle of the The new town emerged as a
Teutonic Knights separate civic entity in 1264.
ul. Przedzamcze. Tel 56 621 08 89. Although it does not have as
Little more than ruins remain many historic buildings as the
of the castle that the Teutonic old town, there is a good deal of
Knights built in Toruń. Before interest here. In summer the
the castle at Malbork (see square is filled with fruit and
pp270–71) was built, Toruń vegetable stalls. In the centre,
was the knights’ capital. where the town hall once stood,
The castle was built in the is a former Protestant church,
13th century and extended built in 1824, probably by the
in the 14th. However, it was German architect Karl Friedrich
destroyed in 1454 when the Schinkel. It has been converted
people of Toruń rose up in into a gallery of contemporary
rebellion against the knights. art. Fine houses, some with
Only the latrine tower – a ornate façades like that of the
tower overhanging a stream Baroque house at No. 17,
surround the square.
On the corner of Ulica
Królowej Jadwigi and the square Gothic tower of the Church of St James in
is the Golden Lion pharmacy, a the new town
brick-built house originating in
the 15th century. E Ethnographical Museum
ul. Wały gen. Sikorskiego 19. Tel 56
622 80 91. Open mid-Apr–Jun: 9am–
5pm Tue–Fri (to 4pm Wed & Fri),
10am–6pm Sat & Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–
6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am–4pm
Wed & Fri; Oct–mid-Apr: 9am–4pm
Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. &
(free Wed). ∑ etnomuzeum.pl
The museum contains fishing
tools and folk art. There is also
a skansen, in which wooden
houses from the region of
Kujawy, Pomerania and Ziemia
Latrine tower, the surviving part of the Castle of the Teutonic Knights Dobrzyńska are displayed.
POLAND REGION BY REGION 281
WARMIA, MAZURIA
AND BIAŁYSTOK
REGION
Known as the land of a thousand lakes, northeastern Poland
is blessed with vast forests and undulating moraine hills as well as
a large number of lakes and rivers. There are no major industrial areas.
Its three regions, Warmia, Mazuria and Białostocczyzna, are ethnically diverse
and have had very different histories.
Warmia, the western part of the region, Many castles were built by the Knights
was once inhabited by the early Prussians, and some Prussian mansions can be
and in the 13th century was taken over by seen here today.
the Teutonic Knights, who established a The Suwałki and Augustów lakelands
bishopric here. Warmia became part of and Białostocczyzna form the region’s
Poland in 1466, was transferred to Prussia eastern part, which once belonged to the
under the Partitions, and was not returned grand duchy of Lithuania. The area was
to Poland until 1945. There are many covered in primeval forests, and three –
historic churches in the region. the Augustów, Knyszyńska and Białowieża
Mazuria and the Iława Lake District at its forests – remain today. The Biebrza valley
southern and eastern fringes were also contains Poland’s largest stretches of
once controlled by the Teutonic Knights. marshland and peat swamps and offers
When the order was secularized in 1525, plenty for naturalists. Those interested in
the region became known as ducal Prussia religious culture are also well served: the
and was ruled by the Hohenzollern family, Orthodox church in Grabarka, the old
although until 1657 it was a Polish monastery of the Orthodox order of
fiefdom. The area’s subsequent history is St Basil in Supraśl, the mosque in
linked to that of Germany, and it did not Kruszyniany and the synagogue in
become part of Poland again until 1945. Tykocin represent a panoply of faiths.
Bartoszyce Węgorzewo
na
ka
Ły
ELBLĄG LIDZBARK Jezioro
WARMIŃSKI Mamry
KĘTRZYN
Orneta Bisztynek
Gierłoż
Pasłęk RESZEL
Malbork DOBRE Giźycko
MIASTO
ŚWIĘTA LIPKA THE GREAT
MORĄG MAZURIAN
g Biskupiec Mrągowo LAKES
rą
Ły
Mo
na
s ki OLSZTYN
Barczewo Mikołajki
Jezioro
w Śniardwy
I ła WARMIŃSKO-
Ostróda
MAZURSKIE
Iława Pisz
Olsztynek
Szczytno
Grudziądz
GRUNWALD
Nowe Miasto
Lubawskie
NIDZICA
Toruń
Działdowo
Nowogród
Warsaw
Warsaw
Sights at a Glance
1 Frombork t Biebrza National Park
2 Braniewo y Łomża
3 Elbląg u Tykocin
4 Morąg i Białystok
5 Dobre Miasto o Kruszyniany
6 Lidzbark Warmiński p Białowieża National Park
7 Olsztyn a Grabarka
8 Grunwald s Drohiczyn
9 Nidzica
0 Reszel Tours
q Święta Lipka r Canoeing on the Czarna
w Kętrzyn Hańcza River and Baroque façade of the Jesuit church in
e The Great Mazurian Lakes pp290–91 Augustów Canal Święta Lipka
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
WA R M I A , M A Z U R I A A N D B I A ŁY S T O K R E G I O N 283
Getting Around
The main road is Highway No. 16
from Grudziądz via Olsztyn to
Augustów. Highway E77 goes from
the south to Elbląg, highway 51 runs
from Olsztyn to the border with the
Russian Kaliningrad District, while
highway 8 links Augustów with
Białystok. Charter flights depart from
Szymany, the region’s only airport,
near the town of Szczytno, and
there are also connections with some
airports in Germany. There are rail
links with all major towns, and buses
link other towns in the region.
Szeska Góra
309m
Cz
ań
H
cz Suwałki Key
a
Lake
Wigry Motorway
Olecko CANOEING ON
CZARNA HAŃCZA & Motorway under construction
AUGUSTÓW CANAL
Main road
w ski
Augustów al Aug u s to Minor road
Ełk K an
Orzysz Main railway
Białobrzegi
Minor railway
Dąbrowa
Białostocka International border
El
Bi eb r z
k
Grajewo
A RK Grodno Regional border
LP
a
NA Peak
Szczuczyn O Czerwone
TI
Bagno
NA
ZA
r za
Kolno Sokółka
BIEBR
Stawiski
B ie b
PODLASKIE
KRUSZYNIANY
Narew
TYKOCIN Wasilków
Zambrów Zabłudów
Wysokie rew
Mazowieckie Na
GRABARKA
DROHICZYN
Bu
g
Lublin
The history of this fortified town goes back to the second Practical Information
half of the 13th century, when it became a Warmian chapter Road map D1. Cathedral: Open
9am–5pm Mon–Sat (8:30am–3pm
(diocesan capital). The Gothic cathedral, which was erected in winter). Copernicus Tower: Open
1342–88, has an unusual form, with no towers on its west end, 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sat (summer).
giving it the appearance of a Cistercian monastery, and an eight- Museum: Tel 55 244 00 70. Open
bay nave that allowed each member of the chapter to have a 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (4:30 summer).
∑ frombork.art.pl Planetarium:
separate altar. There are also several canons’ stalls in the chancel. Tel 55 244 00 83. Open 9:30am–
The cathedral is surrounded by defensive walls set with towers 5pm daily. & Organ recitals:
and pierced by a large main gate in its south side. In the noon, 3pm (summer). 8
cathedral grounds are a bishop’s palace and chapterhouse.
Main gate
Copernicus
Tower
High Altar
Designed by Franciszek
Placidi in 1742–52, the high
altar is almost identical to that
The Belfry in the collegiate church at
Also known as the Dobre Miasto (see p286). The
Copernicus Tower, it central panel is a painting of
houses a planetarium. the Virgin by Stefan Torelli.
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
WA R M I A , M A Z U R I A A N D B I A ŁY S T O K R E G I O N 285
w Kętrzyn
Road map E1. * 28,300. £ @
n pl. Piłsudskiego 10/1 (89 751 47
65). ∑ ketrzyn.pl
Environs
Ten km (6 miles) east of Kętrzyn
is Gierłoż, location of the “Wolf’s
Lair”, Adolf Hitler’s headquarters
in 1940. It consisted of dozens
of reinforced concrete bunkers
built in woodland. There was
Trompe l’oeil paintings in the pilgrimage church in Święta Lipka also an airfield, railway lines and
a power station. Here, on 20 July
E Castle Gallery
cloisters and outside chapels 1944, the German officer Claus
ul. Podzamcze 4. Tel 89 755 07 59.
were added and the façade and von Stauffenberg made an
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8
belfry were completed in 1729. unsuccessful attempt on
During the Counter- Hitler’s life. The lair was never
Reformation Święta Lipka was discovered by the Allies, and the
q Święta Lipka a Catholic stronghold within bunkers were blown up by the
Road map E2. * 190. @ _ Święta Protestant ducal Prussia. Large withdrawing Germans in
Lipka Music Evenings (Jun–Aug). donations were made for January 1945.
∑ swlipka.org.pl decorating the church, resulting
in one of the finest and most
Święta Lipka has one of the intriguing examples of Baroque
most important shrines of the art in Poland.
cult of the Virgin in Poland. The The magnificent interior
name of the town means “holy contains frescoes, including
lime” (or linden tree), and the trompe l’oeil paintings in the
legend that grew up concerns dome by Mathias Mayer, and
a miraculous sculpture of the the high altar has an image of
Virgin that was carved by a the Virgin dating from about
prisoner in the 15th century 1640. The organ, with its
and hung from a roadside lime moving figurines of angels, built
tree. A chapel containing the in 1721 by Johann Mosengel of
statue of the Virgin, destroyed Królewiec (Königsberg), is a
during the Reformation, was great attraction for both tourists
built around it. In 1619 a and pilgrims. In summer, about
temporary chapel was built eight organ recitals are given
here, followed in 1687–93 by a every day, and during some of
proper church, which was cared them, the figures in the organ Crystalline vaulting in the Church of
for by the Jesuits. In 1694–1708 loft are set in motion. St George in Kętrzyn
290 POLAND REGION BY REGION
J
The Great Mazurian Lakes are the largest in Poland and a popular
Lake
holiday spot in summer. Despite this, the countryside remains Mamry
largely unspoiled, and many rare plants and birds thrive here.
The lakes are interlinked by rivers and canals, and are suitable for J
yachting or canoeing trips. Another way to see the region is to Sztynort
take a cruise aboard a ship of the Mazurian Shipping Company J Lake
or to drive along the roads that wind among the lakeside trees. Dargin
Lake
The district is a paradise for ramblers and for those who delight Dobskie
in discovering secret spots. Its woods conceal overgrown bunkers
built by the Germans in World War II.
Lake
Kisajno
Ryn Lake
The castle that towers over Kętrzyn Dejguny
J
the town was built by J
Konrad Wallenrod, Grand
Master of the Teutonic
Knights, for his brother
Frederick in 1394. It was
rebuilt in the English
Gothic style in 1853.
Ryn Lake
Mragowo Jagodne
Lake
Tałty
J
Lake
Łuknajno
Mikołajki
The summer capital of the Mazurian Lake District is Mikołajki
the location of its main yachting marina. A variety of
vessels – from sailing dinghies, yachts and canoes to
motorboats – are available for hire.
Lake
Śniardwy
KEY
J
1 The Pranie Forester’s House J
Museum honours the poet Konstanty
Ildefons Gałczyński (1905–53), who
spent the last days of his life here.
2 Sztynort, once the residence of
the Prussian Lehndorff family, stands
on a large peninsula. Some of the Wojnowo
oak trees in the park surrounding the Ruciane Nida
house are three centuries old.
3 Lake Śniardwy is not very
deep but, covering an area of Pranie
114 sq km (44 sq miles), it is the Wojnowo
largest in Poland. The church, cemetery
4 The local history museum in and convent at
Pisz features a granite column with Wojnowo were built by Lake
a human face known as the the Old Believers, who Nidzkie
Giżycko
Lake Olecko
Niegocin J
Lake Niegocin
Like most others in
the region, the lake
is popular with
watersports enthusiasts
and swimmers. Holiday
resorts and campsites
are scattered around
the lakes.
Water Lilies
Several varieties of
water lily can be seen
in the region’s lakes.
0 kilometres 10
Orzysz
0 miles 10
Key
Major road
Minor road
Wild Swans
Lake Łuknajno, which is listed by UNESCO as a World Biosphere
Reserve, has become one of Poland’s finest nature reserves for
wild swans. The fact that the lake is shallow – its average depth
Lake Roś does not exceed 1.5 m (4 ft) – makes it easy for the birds to
feed on the weed that grows on the lakebed. In 1922 eggs
laid by the swans of Lake Łuknajno were used to regenerate
Berlin’s swan population.
Pisz Lake Łuknajno attracts
wildlife photographers
from all over the world,
lured by the chance of
Kolno
an unforgettable shot.
To safeguard the natural
habitat, boats are not
A swan on Lake Łuknajno allowed on the lake.
•
Wigry. The mon- Lake Krzywe
astery buildings Stary Folwark
•
Lake
have been converted Gremzdy
into a hotel. Beyond,
the Czarna Hańcza Lake
Białe
River flows from Wigry
the lake. National
Park
Olecko
Lake
Wigry
a
nk
nia
erś
Wi
Fracki
Lake Blizno Cz
ar
na
Ha
ńc
Bliz
Lake Busznica
za
na
Lake
Serwy
Lake Orle
Ro
sp
ud
Lake Sajno
4 Rygol Grodno
Here the river forks,
its right arm joining
the Augustów Canal.
Grajewo
Canoeists may stray
Białystok
off the route and
follow the canal 5 Locks
leading to the border The Augustów Canal connects the
with Belarus, but River Niemen with the River Biebrza
they must turn back and, further on, with the Vistula,
at the last lock before passing through several locks on the
the border, which way. Built in 1823–39, the canal was
is closed. a great engineering achievement.
WA R M I A , M A Z U R I A A N D B I A ŁY S T O K R E G I O N 293
E Tykocin Museum
ul. Kozia 2. Tel 85 718 16 26.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–
Apr: to 5pm). & (free on Sat.) 8 Wooden mosque in Kruszyniany, built by the descendants of the Tartars
For hotels and restaurants see p305 and pp317–19
WA R M I A , M A Z U R I A A N D B I A ŁY S T O K R E G I O N 295
p Białowieża
Białowieża National Park has
National Park been listed by UNESCO as a
Road map G3. @ n Park Pałacowy World Biosphere Reserve.
11 (85 681 29 01). ∑ bpn.com.pl
E Białowieża Forest Museum
The Białowieża Forest, covering Palace Park Botanical Gardens.
almost 1,500 sq km (580 sq Tel 85 682 97 04. Open mid-Apr–
miles), is Europe’s largest natural mid-Oct: 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri,
forest. It lies partly in Poland and 9am–5pm Sat & Sun; mid-Oct–
partly in Belarus. The larger – mid-Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. 9
Belarussian – part is virtually
inaccessible to tourists; the
Polish part became a national
a Grabarka
park in 1932. Many parts of the Road map F3. * 50. £ Nurzec. @
park have preserved their Orthodox convent: Tel 85 655 00 10.
natural character – that of a ∑ grabarka.pl
primeval forest. The areas of Baroque façade of the Benedictine church
greatest interest may be visited For Poland’s Orthodox in Drohiczyn
only with a guide. Recently, the Christians, there is no more
park’s borders have been important place of pilgrimage passed and the hill became a
extended on the Polish side. in the country than the Holy hallowed site.
The forest has an impressive Mountain outside Grabarka. To this day its slopes are
abundance of flora and fauna. The story goes that in 1770, covered with hundreds of votive
There are several thousand when the plague was ravaging crosses. The original wooden
species of plants and 11,000 the town, the inhabitants church, destroyed by an arsonist
species of animals, including of Grabarka were directed in 1990, was replaced by a brick-
many very rare birds, such as by a heavenly sign to erect a built church. The Orthodox
the capercaillie, black stork and cross on the hill. The plague convent next to it is the only
golden eagle. Larger mammals one in Poland.
include elk, deer, roe deer, wild
boar, wolf, lynx and, most
famously, the European bison. s Drohiczyn
On the road through the Road map F3. * 2,100. @
forest there is a bison-breeding n ul. Kraszewskiego 13 (85 655
centre and enclosures of bison, 70 69). ∑ drohiczyn.pl
deer, wild boar and Polish
ponies. The park also has a Drohiczyn, set on a high bank of
forest museum, whose exhibits the Bug River, is today a small,
were once housed in a brick quiet town. As early as the 13th
hunting lodge used by the tsars. century, however, it was a major
It was torched by German forces centre of trade, and in 1520 it
in 1944. Only an Orthodox Part of the forest of crosses on the Holy became the provincial capital of
church remains. Mountain outside Grabarka Podlasie. In 1795, with the Third
Partition of Poland, it was
demoted to the status of an
European Bison ordinary village.
The European bison (Bison bonasus) is the largest mammal native to The oldest surviving church
Europe. The weight of an adult bull may reach 1,000 kg (2,200 lb). The in the town is the Baroque
largest population of bison ever recorded – 1,500 animals – was in Franciscan church, dating
Białowieża in 1860. Hunting these animals has always been restricted, from 1640–60. The cathedral,
but by World War I (1914–18) the species faced extinction. In 1929, originally a Jesuit church, dates
several bison were brought to from 1696–1709. Nearby stands
Poland from zoos in the former Jesuit monastery,
Sweden and
later taken over by the Piarists.
Germany to be bred
The striking Benedictine
in their natural
habitat. The first church, begun in 1744, has a
were set free in typically Baroque undulating
Białowieża National façade and elliptical interior.
Park in 1952. Today bison can also The Orthodox church,
be seen in the other great forests of originally Greek Catholic, dates
Poland, including Borecka, from 1792. To the east of the
Knyszyńska and Niepołomice town, along the winding Bug
(see p168). The European bison River, lies a park, the Podlasie
Bug River Gorge.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The accommodation industry in Poland hotels have sprung up in cities and resorts
has come a long way since the fall of throughout the country. The number of
Communism in 1989. The country is now backpacker hostels has also mushroomed,
home to big international chains, such ensuring that there is a broad choice of
as Radisson Blu and Sheraton, as well as accommodation for all budgets. Visitors
many superbly renovated 19th-century can still expect to pay a premium for
hotels, renowned for their fin-de-siècle hotels in the city centre, but the increased
atmosphere. The best of these have competition is helping to keep prices in
managed to recapture the magnificence check. From all the hotels in Poland, this
that was lost during the period of section highlights some of the best; they
Communist rule. In addition to these have been categorized according to
renovated historic hotels, many new location and price on pages 302–5.
Camping
There is a handful of suburban A cosy room at the Kolory B&B in Krakow (see p303)
campsites in Warsaw, Krakow
and Poznań, and a large number from backpacker hostels to DIRECTORY
of sites in tourist areas such as cosy B&Bs, from boutique
the Baltic coast, the Mazurian hotels to grand historic Internet Booking
Lakes and the Tatra Mountains. establishments and the big, Websites
Most sites are well-equipped luxury skyscrapers for which
Airbnb
affairs with good sanitary Polish cities are increasingly
∑ www.airbnb.com
facilities and electricity for noted. They are listed by price
trailers. The larger ones may also within each area, be that the Booking
offer bungalows, TV lounges, historic quarters of Gdańsk, ∑ www.booking.com
playgrounds and sports pitches. Lublin and Krakow, or the
Hostelworld
While a few campsites are open blissfully unspoiled lakes and
∑ www.hostelworld.com
all year round, most operate villages of rural Poland.
only from early May to the Throughout the listings Disabled Travellers
end of September. The Polish certain hotels have been
Camping and Caravanning highlighted as DK Choice. Office of the Government
Federation provides guides These offer a particularly Plenipotentiary for the
and maps detailing all the special experience, such as Disabled
sites in the country. a beautiful location, a historical Warsaw,
or characterful setting, ul. Nowogrodzka 11.
outstanding views or a Tel 22 529 06 01.
Recommended Hotels great spa . Whatever the ∑ niepelnosprawni.gov.pl
The places to stay listed on reasons, the DK Choice label is
pages 302–5 are the best from a a guarantee of an especially Rooms and
range of accommodation types, memorable stay. Apartments to Let
Krakow Apartments
Tel 502 501 812.
∑ krakow-apartments.com
Sodispar
Tel 12 423 42 44.
∑ sodispar.pl
Camping
Polish Camping and
Caravanning Federation
Warsaw,
ul. Grochowska 331.
Tel 22 810 60 50.
∑ pfcc.eu
Where to Stay
SleepWell Apartments zł zł Price Guide
Warsaw Boutique Map 4 D1 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
ul. Nowy Świat 62, 00-357 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Chmielna Guesthouse zł Tel 600 300 749
B&B Map 3 C1 ∑ sleepwell-warsaw.pl zł up to 200zł
ul. Chmielna 13, 00-021 These centrally located studio zł zł 200zł to 400zł
zł zł zł over 400zł
Tel 22 828 12 82 apartments have a bold design.
∑ chmielnabb.pl
The charming rooms at this hotel Hotel Bristol zł zł zł KAZIMIERZ DOLNY:
have travel-themed decor. Historic Map 2 D4 Hotel Villa Bohema zł zł zł
Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 00-325 Boutique Map F4
Oki Doki zł Tel 22 551 10 00 ul. Małachowskiego 12, 24-120
Hostel Map 1 C5 ∑ hotelbristolwarsaw.pl Tel 81 881 07 56
pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, 00-057 This sumptuous fin-de-siècle ∑ villabohema.pl
Tel 22 828 01 22 establishment has welcomed VIPs A country-house hotel on the
∑ okidoki.pl such as presidents and rock stars. edge of this well-preserved
A budget hotel decorated in market town. Good spa facilities.
thrift-store style. There’s a bar on Marriott zł zł zł
site and a fully equipped kitchen. Luxury Map 3 A2 LESZNO: Akwawit zł zł
al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, 00-697 Spa resort Map B4
Ibis Stare Miasto zł zł Tel 22 630 63 06 ul. Św Józefa 5, 64-100
Chain Map 1 C1 ∑ marriott.com Tel 65 526 08 11
ul. Muranowska 2, 00-209 This skyscraper draws celebrity ∑ akwawit.pl
Tel 22 310 10 00 guests with its superb facilities, This modern business hotel is
∑ ibis.com casino and penthouse bar. also a spa resort. The adjoining
The functional Ibis is an ideal aquacentre features a large pool.
base for exploring the Old Town. Residence St Andrews
Place zł zł zł ŁÓDŹ: Grand Hotel zł zł
Luxury Map 3 A1 Historic Map D4
DK Choice Chmielna 30, 00-020 ul. Piotrkowska 72, 90-102
Rialto zł zł Tel 22 826 46 60 Tel 42 633 99 20
Boutique ∑ residence.com.pl ∑ grand.hotel.com.pl
ul. Wilcza 73, 00 670 Enjoy short- or long-term stays in Expect bags of charm at this hotel
Tel 22 584 87 00 luxury apartments in a renovated in a pre-World War I building.
∑ hotelrialto.com.pl pre-World War I building.
An elegant Art Deco vibe runs ŁÓDŹ: Andel’s zł zł zł
through this hotel close to the Sofitel Victoria zł zł zł Luxury Map D4
central station. Every detail is a Luxury Map 1 C5 ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91-065
faithful reproduction of Roaring Królewska 11, 00-065 Tel 42 279 10 00
Twenties style, and many of the Tel 22 657 80 11 ∑ vi-hotels.com/en/andels-lodz
bathrooms have beautiful tiling. ∑ sofitel.com Rooms have designer furniture
Amenities include flat-screen The well-furnished rooms at this and exposed brickwork at this
TVs and espresso machines; hotel opposite Warsaw’s Saxon hotel in a former textile factory.
staff are helpful and attentive. Gardens have all the amenities.
LUBLIN: Mercure Lublin zł zł
Chain Map F4
al. Racławickie 12, 20-037
Mazovia and Tel 81 533 20 61
∑ mercure.com
Wielkopolska Opposite the Saxon Gardens and
ANTONIN: Pałac close to the sights, this hotel
Radziwiłłów zł zł offers contemporary, fresh rooms.
Historic Map C4
ul. Pałacowa 1, 63-421
Tel 62 734 83 00 DK Choice
∑ palacantonin.pl LUBLIN: Grand Hotel
The palace’s former hunting lodge Lublinianka zł zł zł
is now a 14-room hotel with basic Historic Map F4
comforts, but lots of atmosphere. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 56,
20-002
GNIEZNO: Dom Pielgrzyma/ Tel 81 446 61 00
Adalbertus zł ∑ lublinianka.com
Historic Map C3 A fully equipped spa centre is
ul. Tumska 7a, 62-200 the latest addition to what has
Tel 61 426 13 60 been Lublin’s finest hotel since it
∑ dompielgrzymagniezno.pl opened in 1900. Contemporary
This hotel in a historic building rooms retain the original
by the cathedral has simple marble bathrooms. It is located
The elegant Art Deco building housing the ensuite rooms. It has an Italian on the main shopping street.
Rialto hotel, Warsaw and a Polish restaurant.
W H E R E TO S TAY 303
POZNAŃ: Brovaria zł zł
Boutique Map C3
Stary Rynek 73, 74 61-772
Tel 61 858 68 68
∑ brovaria.pl
An Old Town hotel with its own
microbrewery. Rooms are prim,
with dark woods and soft fabrics.
DK Choice
POZNAŃ: Blow Up
Hall 5050 zł zł zł
Luxury Map C3
ul. Kościuszki 42, 61-891
Tel 61 657 99 80
∑ blowuphall5050.com
Named after Antonioni’s 1966 Striking black-and-white decor at the Blow Up Hall 5050, Poznań
film, this design hotel is located
in the Stary Browar complex, a Kolory zł zł
renovated brewery. Rooms B&B Map D5 Małopolska and
feature contemporary gadgets ul. Estery 10, 31-056 Silesia
and original features, such as Tel 12 421 04 65
the half-moon windows. ∑ kolory.com.pl
Located above Les Couleurs café,
this charming B&B has bright en DK Choice
POZNAŃ: IBB Andersia zł zł zł suites decorated with folk art. BIESZCZADY MOUNTAINS,
Luxury Map C3 WETLINA: Leśny Dwór zł
Plac Andersia 3, 61-894 Andel’s zł zł zł B&B Map F6
Tel 61 667 80 00 Chain Map D5 Wetlina 73, 38-608
∑ andersiahotel.pl ul. Pawia 3, 31-154 Tel 13 468 46 54
The hotel in the Andersia Tower, Tel 12 660 01 00 ∑ lesnydwor.bieszczady.pl
Poznań’s tallest building, offers ∑ andelscracow.com Well signposted from the
superb rooms with great views. Jutting out into the plaza in front western end of the village, this
of the train station like an ocean family-run establishment has
ZAMOŚĆ: Hotel Mercury zł zł liner, Andel’s has chic rooms in carefully furnished rooms, a
Chain Map F5 shades of cream and brown. pleasant garden, good home
Kołłątaja 2/4/6, 22-400 cooking and a small library of
Tel 84 639 25 16 local-interest books. The
∑ accorhotels.com DK Choice Bieszczady Mountains are a
Housed in a beautifully renovated Hotel Stary zł zł zł short walk uphill. Half board only.
Renaissance building with a glass- Luxury Map D5
covered atrium in the Old Town. ul. Szczepańska 5, 31-011
Tel 12 384 08 08 CZĘSTOCHOWA:
ZAMOŚĆ: Hotel Senator zł zł ∑ stary.hotel.com.pl Mercure Centrum zł zł
Historic Map F5 Original features – high ceilings Chain Map D5
ul. Rynek Solny 4, 22-400 and exposed brick and stone – ul. Popiełuszki 2, 43-200
Tel 84 638 76 10 are mixed with contemporary Tel 34 360 31 00
∑ senatorhotel.pl furniture at this 15th-century ∑ accorhotels.com
This hotel has plain but merchant’s house. Facilities This hotel in a central location
comfortable good-value rooms. include a subterranean pool, has comfy modern rooms and a
saunas and a spa centre. grand glass-roofed restaurant.
JELENIA GÓRA:
Krakow Komorowski zł zł zł Hotel Jelonek zł zł
Boutique Map D5 Historic Map B4
Mundo Hostel zł ul. Długa 7, 31-147 ul. 1 Maja 5, 58-500
Hostel Map D5 Tel 505 989 371 Tel 75 764 65 41
ul. Sarego 10, 31-047 ∑ hotelkomorowski.com ∑ hoteljelonek.pl
Tel 12 422 61 13 Rooms at this romantic hotel Rooms have plush furnishings
∑ mundohostel.eu feature lots of rich colours, plush in this 12-room hotel in an
This boutique hostel offers furnishings and exposed brick. 18th-century building.
several private double rooms
decorated with ethnic textiles. Pollera zł zł zł KARPACZ:
Historic Map D5 Hotel Karkonosze zł zł
Elektor zł zł ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Resort Map B5
Historic Map D5 Tel 12 422 10 44 ul. Wolna 4, 58-540
ul. Szpitalna 28, 31-024 ∑ pollera.com.pl Tel 75 761 82 77
Tel 12 423 23 17 An Art Nouveau classic in the Old ∑ hotel-karkonosze.com.pl
∑ hotelelektor.pl Quarter, the Pollera was founded A charming mountain hotel with
One of Krakow’s grand dames, in 1834 and has welcomed a wealth of timber features and
with a subtle Old World feel. guests with style ever since. comfortable, modern rooms.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 298–301
304 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SZKLARSKA PORĘBA:
DK Choice Hotel Kryształ zł zł
KATOWICE: Monopol zł zł zł Resort Map B4
Historic Map D5 ul. 1 Maja 19, 58-580
ul. Dworcowa 5, 40-012 Tel 75 717 49 30
Tel 32 782 82 82 ∑ hotelkrysztal.pl
∑ monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl An alpine-style hotel near ski lifts,
The Monopol is something of with a sauna and bowling alley.
a treasure, occupying a Neo-
Gothic building with Art Deco TARNÓW: Hotel Tarnovia zł zł
additions. The rooms are classy Business Map E5
and modern; extra luxury is ul. Kościuszki 10, 33-100
provided by the underground Tel 14 630 03 50
pool and the lovely dining ∑ hotel.tarnovia.pl
room with exposed brick walls. This hotel near the train and bus
stations has simple, comfortable
rooms as well as business facilities.
KIELCE: Hotel Dal zł Twin room with wrought-iron beds at the
Business Map E5 WROCŁAW: Stop Wrocław zł Stop Wrocław, Wrocław
ul. Piotrkowska 12, 25-510 Hostel Map C4
Tel 41 336 10 00 ul. Sienkiewicza 31, 50-349
∑ hoteldal.pl Tel 519 115 075 Gdańsk
A hotel in a sleek glass-fronted ∑ stopwroclaw.pl
building near the main street. In a 19th-century town house Happy Seven zł
near the Botanical Garden, Stop Hostel Map D1
LĄDEK ZDRÓJ: Willa Arabeska zł Wrocław offers characterful, ul. Grodzka 16, 80-841
Historic Map B5 individually decorated rooms. Tel 58 320 86 01
ul. Paderewskiego 4, 57-540 ∑ happyseven.com
Tel 74 814 79 22 WROCŁAW: Europeum zł zł There are big dorms and private
∑ willa-arabeska.pl Luxury Map C4 doubles in this comfy hostel in a
Enjoy easy access to the spa ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A, 50-077 medieval building.
waters from this historic pension. Tel 71 371 44 00
∑ europeum.pl Hotel Wolne Miasto zł
ŁAŃCUT: Pałacyk zł The stylish rooms here, most with Historic Map D1
Historic/B&B Map F5 floor-to-ceiling windows, are ul. św. Ducha 2, 80-834
ul. Paderewskiego 18, 37-100 decorated in muted colours. Tel 58 322 24 42
Tel 17 225 20 43 ∑ hotelwm.pl
∑ palacyk-lancut.pl WROCŁAW: Qubus Hotel zł zł Well-equipped rooms with photos
A bijou inn with a number of Business Map C4 of the city in its heyday capture
timber-beamed attic rooms. ul. św. Marii Magdaleny 2, 50-103 the spirit of pre-war Gdańsk.
Tel 71 797 98 00
OPOLE: Hotel Piast zł zł ∑ qubushotel.com Stay Inn zł zł
Business Map C5 Guests enjoy contemporary decor Hostel Map D1
ul. Piastowska 1, 45-081 and a range of facilities, including ul. Piwna 28/31, 80-831
Tel 77 454 97 10 a pool, at this central hotel. Tel 58 354 15 43
∑ hotel-piast.com ∑ stayinngdansk.com
Rooms have a floral design at this WROCŁAW: Granary zł zł zł This cross between a design hotel
small hotel on Piaseka Island. Boutique Map C4 and a backpacker hostel features
Mennicza 24, 50-057 dorms, doubles and family rooms.
PRZEMYŚL: Europejski zł Tel 71 395 26 00
Business Map F6 ∑ thegranaryhotel.com Hanza zł zł zł
ul. Sowińskiego 4, 37-700 This lovingly restored red-brick Luxury Map D1
Tel 16 675 71 00 granary houses luxurious suites ul. Tokarska 6, 80-888
∑ hotel-europejski.pl with kitchenettes. Tel 58 305 34 27
A hotel in a 19th-century building ∑ hotelhanza.pl
with small but comfortable rooms. ZAKOPANE: Willa Orla zł Thoughtfully designed rooms
B&B Map D6 come with all mod cons in this
SANDOMIERZ: ul. Kościeliska 50, 34-500 hotel in a riverside building.
Pod Ciżemką zł zł Tel 18 201 26 97
Historic Map F5 ∑ orla.com.pl
ul. Rynek 27, 27-600 In a gabled, highland-style DK Choice
Tel 15 832 05 50 property, Willa Orla's breakfast Podewils zł zł zł
∑ hotelcizemka.pl room is full of vintage clocks. Boutique Map D1
An arcaded 17th-century house ul. Szafarnia 2, 80-755
with characterful en-suite rooms. ZAKOPANE: Litwor zł zł zł Tel 58 300 95 60
Luxury Map D6 ∑ podewils.pl
SZCZYRK: Hotel Klimczok zł zł zł ul. Krupówki 40, 34-500 This elegant Baroque-style
Resort Map D6 Tel 18 202 42 00 mansion has rooms overlooking
ul. Poziomkowa 20, 43-370 ∑ litwor.pl Gdańsk’s small marina, and a
Tel 33 826 01 00 In a chalet-style building on the lobby filled with antiques and
∑ klimczok.pl main street, the Litwor offers oil paintings. Amenities include
A modern mountain lodge with swanky rooms with mountain DVD players and Jacuzzi tubs.
bright decor and sporting facilities. views and an indoor pool.
For key to prices see page 302
W H E R E TO S TAY 305
ŁEBA: Neptun zł zł zł
Historic Map C1
ul. Sosnowa 1, 84-360
Tel 59 866 14 32
∑ neptunhotel.pl
The luxurious rooms in this hotel
in a 1903 building have sea views.
Restaurants
Those who enjoy good food
in a pleasant atmosphere
will not be disappointed in
Poland. Many restaurants in
the big cities are housed in
historic buildings or medieval
cellars, usually painstakingly
restored and tastefully
furnished. Restaurants in
Warsaw, Gdańsk, Krakow
and Wrocław frequently The sleek decor at Asian fusion restaurant Papaya, in Warsaw (see p310)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 307
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed on
pages 310–19 have been
chosen to give a cross-section
of the most noteworthy places
to eat in Poland. Whether
located in the bustling centre of
Warsaw, the evocative former
Jewish quarter of Kazimierz in
Wooden benches at traditional Sielsko Anielsko restaurant, Lublin (see p312) Krakow or the rustic towns and
villages of rural Poland, each
Street Food Vegetarian Food restaurant has earned a
Poland’s favourite street Most restaurants in Poland noteworthy reputation.
snack, the zapiekanka, is a serve at least some vegetarian The listings cover a range
halved baguette covered in dishes. Italian eateries, which of eateries and cuisine types,
meat, cheese and vegetables, usually have a handful of meat- from traditional Polish canteens
then toasted. Zapiekankas are free pizzas and pasta dishes on and Central European and Jewish
sold from fast-food kiosks all their menus, are a good stand- restaurants to pizzerias, Asian
over Poland. Other ubiquitous by. Traditional local dishes – eateries, establishments
features of the Polish street- such as pierogi (dumplings) specializing in fish and seafood,
food scene are grilled sausages filled with sauerkraut, wild characterful cafés and smart,
and, in coastal and lake resorts, mushrooms, cheese or fruit, as elegant restaurants offering
fish and chips. well as all kinds of savoury gourmet dining.
pancakes, omelettes and knedle Some establishments have
(potato dumplings) – are very been labelled as DK Choice.
Prices and Tips popular. Colourful salads are These stand out from the crowd
The price of food in Polish available in all restaurants. and offer something particularly
restaurants is below the Beetroot, carrots, cabbage, special, such as exceptional
European average. Certainly cauliflower, celeriac and leeks food, an inventive menu, great
100zł per person will suffice for are perennial favourites, but value for money, a beautiful
a three-course meal without aubergines, broccoli, celery, setting, particular charm or a
alcohol in all but the most endives and courgettes have combination of these factors.
expensive places. If you do also been introduced to Polish Whatever the reason, it is a
wish to drink alcohol with cuisine. Tasty vegetarian food is guarantee of an especially
your meal, this will add a available not only from most memorable meal.
substantial amount to the
bill. Sometimes, menu prices
apply just to the main dish, and
an extra charge is made for
potatoes, salads and other side
dishes. Fish is often priced by
weight; ask the server what the
likely cost of your meal will be.
Credit cards are becoming
ever more popular and should
be readily accepted by all the
larger restaurants and those
located on the main tourist
trail. Signs on windows or
doors indicate which cards are
accepted by the establishment.
All over Poland a customary
tip amounts to about ten per
cent of the bill. The sheltered patio at the Italian restaurant Del Papa, in Krakow (see p314)
308 TRAVELLER’S NEEDS
Pierogi These ravioli-style Barszcz This beetroot soup, Poppy seed roll A rich yeasted
dumplings may be stuffed with flavoured with lemon and dough is wrapped around a
meat, sauerkraut, mushrooms, garlic, may be served clear or sweet poppy-seed filling and
cheese or fruit. with beans or potatoes. baked until lightly golden.
310 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Dom Polski zł zł zł
Classic Polish
ul. Francuska 11, 03-906
Tel 22 616 24 32
In the embassy-filled Saska Kepa
district, Dom Polski serves some
of the classiest fare in Poland. The
menu is seasonal and often
features fantastic game dishes.
Papaya zł zł zł
Asian fusion Map 4 D1
ul. Foksal 16, 00-372
Tel 22 826 48 51
On a popular bar-and-restaurant
strip, this upscale restaurant
serves imaginative Oriental
meat and seafood dishes in
Enjoying a quick bite at the trendy Kafka Café, in Warsaw über-cool surroundings.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 311
DK Choice
Różana zł zł zł
Classic Polish
ul. Chocimska 7, 00-791
Tel 22 848 12 25
One of the most attractive
restaurants in Warsaw, Różana
is located in a villa southwest
of Łazienki Park. The dining
rooms look like they belong
in an English country house,
and there is a beautiful garden
to boot. Expect traditional food
beautifully presented, with liver,
tenderloin steaks, roast duck,
freshwater fish and game
dominating the menu. The
meringue desserts are a treat.
Chimera zł
Classic Polish Map D5
ul. św. Anny 3, 31-008
Tel 12 292 12 12
At this buffet restaurant in a
roofed courtyard, diners pay
according to plate size, so it is
ideal for trying different dishes.
Lots of vegetarian options, too.
La Petite France zł
Café Map D5
ul. św. Tomasza 25, 31-024
Tel 12 370 20 74
Combining a deli store and a
café, this cosy, intimate spot
serves some of the finest quiche
in Poland, in addition to some
serious gourmet sandwiches. Outdoor seating at Camelot café, Krakow
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 306–7
314 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
BRZESKO: Pawilon zł
Classic Polish Map E5
ul. Wesoła 4, 32-800
Tel 14 663 17 61
Wholesome, good-value Polish
fare, including many types of
pierogi, are served in this inn
decorated with floral folk patterns.
CIESZYN: Kamienica
Konczakowskich zł zł
Classic Polish Map D6
Rynek 19, 43-400
Tel 33 852 18 96
Located on the main square, this
restaurant has retro furnishings,
The vaulted, exposed-brick interior of Del Papa, in Krakow lace tablecloths and a varied
menu of classics, from potato
Aqua e Vino zł zł zł are served in this atmospheric pancakes to roast duck.
Italian Map D5 brick-lined basement room
ul. Wiślna 5/10, 31-007 beneath the Gródek hotel. CZĘSTOCHOWA:
Tel 12 421 25 67 Café Skrzynka zł
At this trendy Italian restaurant, Studio Qulinarne zł zł zł International Map D5
the dishes appear as carefully Gourmet Map D5 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, 42-200
designed as the interior. Expect ul. Gazowa 4, 31-060 Tel 34 324 30 98
imaginative takes on classic Tel 12 430 69 41 A chic, homely café serving a
recipes and superb desserts. One of the most inventive large, inexpensive selection of
restaurants in town, Studio sweet and savoury pancakes.
Copernicus zł zł zł Qulinarne uses fresh Polish Freshly made sandwiches and
Gourmet Map D5 ingredients, Mediterranean flair soups of the day make excellent
ul. Kanonicza 16, 31-002 and a touch of Oriental spice to light lunches.
Tel 12 424 34 21 conjure up an original menu
Superlative food and exemplary served in an elegant interior. GLIWICE: Spichlerz zł zł zł
service are to be enjoyed in this Gourmet Map D5
atmospheric hotel restaurant that Wentzl zł zł zł ul. Wiejska 16b, 44-121
specializes in classic French Gourmet Map D5 Tel 32 333 10 11
cuisine and in game dishes. Rynek Główny 19, 31-008 Located inside a converted
Tel 12 429 52 99 granary, this restaurant serves
Cyrano de Bergerac zł zł zł Traditional Polish fare, with a steaks, local game and classic
Gourmet Map D5 predominance of roast fowl and European dishes in an exposed-
ul. Sławkowska 26, 31-014 pork, is on offer at this historic brick interior.
Tel 12 411 72 88 restaurant boasting high ceilings,
This is a world-class French oak floors and lavish fabrics. GŁOGOCZÓWDWOR:
restaurant with impeccable Nowina zł zł
service, set in two elegant rooms. Contemporary Polish Map D6
Be sure to try the desserts. Dwór, 32-440
Małopolska and Tel 12 273 77 15
Del Papa zł zł zł Silesia Enjoy outstanding game dishes
Italian Map D5 and lavish platters of roast meats
ul. św. Tomasza 6, 31-014 BIESZCZADY MOUNTAINS, at this award-winning restaurant
Tel 12 421 83 43 WETLINA: serving rustic Polish cooking with
One of Krakow’s best Italians, Del Chata Wędrowca zł zł a modern urban twist.
Papa has a menu that features International Map F6
classic meat dishes as well as Wetlina 113, 38-608 KATOWICE: A Dong zł
Mediterranean seafood. Diners Tel 500 225 533 Asian Map D5
can enjoy their meal in a Set back slightly from the main Wawelska 3, 40-096
secluded patio at the back. road at the western end of Tel 32 258 66 62
Wetlina, the “Wayfarer’s Cabin” Decorated with the requisite
Farina zł zł zł is renowned for its local-meets- paper lanterns, this restaurant in
Seafood Map D5 global menu, which features the central pedestrian area offers
ul. św. Marka 16, 31-018 lamb, mountain trout and an extensive menu of good-value
Tel 12 422 18 60 marinated meats. Vietnamese and Chinese dishes.
This informal Mediterranean-
themed restaurant specializes in BRENNA: Skalny Dworek zł KATOWICE: Złoty Osioł zł
fish. Fine white fish is served Classic Polish Map D6 Vegetarian Map D5
grilled, pan-fried or baked. ul. Wyzwolenia 45, 43-438 ul. Mariacka 1, 40-077
Tel 33 853 61 16 Tel 501 465 690
Gródek zł zł zł Large portions of traditional Decked out in Oriental textiles
Gourmet Map D5 country-style cooking, with an and comfortable cushions, this
Na Gródku 4, 31-028 accent on roast meat and legendary vegetarian café offers
Tel 12 431 20 41 poultry, are served in this chalet- an innovative and filling range
Polish and international dishes, style restaurant with a scenic of soups, pasta and tofu dishes,
prepared with flair and invention, summer terrace. and pastries.
For key to prices see page 310
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 315
TARNÓW: Pasaż zł zł
Classic Polish Map E5
pl. Kazimierza Wielkiego 2, 33-100
Tel 14 627 82 78
Plain from the outside but quite
elegant within, Pasaż serves
classic Polish food, including
inexpensive daily specials.
ZAKOPANE:
Mała Szwajcaria zł zł zł
Classic Polish/Swiss Map D6
ul. Zamoyskiego 11, 34-500
Tel 18 201 20 76
This restaurant offers an
intriguing combination of
Polish and Swiss recipes, with
local pork and freshwater fish
vying for attention with the
fondues. Everything is expertly
Le Bistrot Parisien, in Wrocław, re-creating a warm Parisian ambience prepared and stylishly delivered.
For key to prices see page 310
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 317
Fellini zł zł zł
Italian Map D1
Targ Rybny 6, 80-890
Tel 888 010 203
This smart, cosy Italian restaurant
in a riverside area serves home-
made pasta with imaginative
sauces, veal rolled with
prosciutto, and some stand-
out fish dishes.
Metamorfoza zł zł zł
Contemporary Polish Map D1
ul. Szeroka 22/23, 80-835
Tel 58 320 30 30 Closed Mon
Featuring a modern, minimalist
decor, this centrally located
restaurant offers an exquisitely
The lavish decor at Pod Łososiem, Gdańsk prepared fusion of local
ingredients and Mediterranean
spread of good-value traditional cuisine, plus a classic French
Gdańsk snacks, such as marinated approach to the details.
herring, gzik (cottage cheese,
A la Française zł onion and sour cream), as well Pod Łososiem zł zł zł
French Map D1 as steak tartare. Gourmet Map D1
ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, 80-750 ul. Szeroka 52/54, 80-835
Tel 58 765 11 12 Tawerna Mestwin zł Tel 58 301 76 52
This two-storey café-restaurant Classic Polish/Regional Map D1 This opulent restaurant with
with a homely feel offers soups, ul. Straganiarska 20/23, 80-837 its celebrity-spattered guest
baguette sandwiches and Tel 606 745 252 list serves classic fine-feasting
delicious sweet and savoury Crammed with local arts and dishes, including plenty of
pancakes. There are also some crafts, this timeless, homely seafood and game. Grilled
hard-to-resist pastries and eclairs. restaurant is a virtual museum. salmon is the house speciality.
On the menu is traditional
Bar Neptun zł Kashubian cuisine, which Targ Rybny zł zł zł
Classic Polish Map D1 amounts to tasty offerings Seafood Map D1
ul. Długa 33/34, 80-827 of hunks of meat. Welcoming, Targ Rybny 6c, 80-838
Tel 58 301 49 88 friendly service. Tel 58 320 90 11
This traditional bar mleczny, or Boasting an ideal location right
canteen restaurant, serves filling, Kresowa zł zł beside the fish market, this bright
tasty portions of pork, fish, bean Classic Polish Map D1 bistro-style restaurant elevates
stew and potato pancakes in ul. Ogarna 12, 80-826 local fish cuisine to an art form.
sparse but smart surroundings. Tel 58 301 66 53 Highlights include the salmon-
Located near the historic stuffed pierogi and the sea bass
Nowa Pierogova zł shipyard, this excellent baked with artichokes.
Classic Polish Map D1 restaurant borrows liberally
ul. Szafarnia 6 from the culinary traditions
Tel 516 414 200 of the Polish-Lithuanian and
Situated on the river, opposite Polish-Ukrainian borderlands, Pomerania and
the Old Town, this good-value, with waiting staff dressed in Northeastern
cheerful pierogi joint offers traditional Eastern Polish attire.
traditional meat- and cheese- Poland
filled options, as well as some AUGUSTÓW: Kaktusik zł zł
own-recipe variations featuring DK Choice Seafood Map F2
seafood and exotic spices. Kubicki zł zł ul. 29. Listopada 2, 16-300
Classic Polish Map D1 Tel 697 720 033
Pierogarnia u Dzika zł ul. Wartka 5, 80-841 Enjoy fine dining – freshwater
Classic Polish Map D1 Tel 58 301 00 50 fish, home-made pierogi and
ul. Piwna 59/60, 80-831 Founded in 1919, this legendary roast poultry dishes – in this
Tel 58 305 26 76 restaurant remains in the hands timber house surrounded by a
Boar pelts and animal heads add of the same family that founded park. There is also a highly
to the atmosphere at this fast- it. The interior is full of vintage respectable wine list.
food restaurant serving a vast furniture, while the high-quality
selection of pierogi with all sorts food reflects the traditions of BIAŁOWIEŻA: Żubrówka zł zł zł
of fillings, ranging from meat to Poland’s Baltic cities, with Gourmet Map G3
cabbage and fresh fruit. herring, halibut and sole ul. O. Gabiec 6, 16-303
balancing out a menu strong Tel 601 800 815
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa zł in meaty specialities like This hotel restaurant near the
Classic Polish Map D1 golonka (roast pork knuckle) or entrance to the national park
ul. Długi Targ 35/38, 80-830 wild boar. Traditional home- offers a superb selection of
Tel 530 766 945 made desserts include sernik local game dishes flavoured
Open 24 hours, this trendy bar (Polish cheesecake). with forest fruits, and a handful
serves vodka shots, beer and a of freshwater fish options.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 306–7
318 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
BIAŁYSTOK: Cristal zł zł zł
International Map F2
ul. Lipowa 3, 15-424
Tel 85 749 61 59
This popular city-centre eaterie
is famous for its well-presented
Polish classics, which are served
alongside some top-quality
French and Mediterranean fare.
SOPOT: Rucola zł zł
International Map D1
Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53,
81-777
Tel 58 555 53 55
Occupying the basement of the
Sopot Museum, Rucola serves
sophisticated global fusion food,
with an emphasis on Far Eastern
and Mediterranean flavours.
SHOPPING IN POLAND
Poland is known first and foremost for its are produced by the highlanders of Zakopane
handicraft goods. Polish silver and amber and its environs. CDs of Polish classical and
jewellery are especially renowned, but contemporary music are available all over the
hand-embroidered tablecloths, cut glass country. Large-format, lavishly illustrated
from Silesia, porcelain from Ćmielów and books of the Polish landscape and on art,
ceramics from Bolesławiec are also very some of which are published in English,
popular. Thick, hand-knitted woollen French or German, are other tempting
sweaters and ornamented leather slippers souvenirs of a visit to Poland.
Modern Art
An antiques market in Krakow’s Main Market Square Some of the greatest attractions
for tourists in Poland are
Books and Records the market in Zakopane; contemporary paintings, prints
Well-stocked bookshops can be embroidered tablecloths are and posters, which are available
found in most towns and cities. on sale at stalls in Święta at very reasonable prices in
The EMPiK chain of bookshops, Lipka and Kashubian galleries. Art galleries also sell
with outlets in all big cities, ceramics in pottery original glass, ceramics and
offers the widest choice, and workshops in Chmielno. designer jewellery. Silver, in the
not only of books; there are form of sophisticated jewellery
music sections as well. Guide- and various other artifacts, is
books in foreign languages and relatively cheap.
glossy coffee-table books Painting on glass also has a
aimed at the tourist market strong tradition in Poland, and
are available from tourist small pieces, with traditional or
information centres. Many modern designs, are offered for
second-hand bookshops, to be sale in many galleries around
found in the old parts of big the country.
cities, often stock an interesting A shop showroom with ceramics and In Wrocław, the former meat
selection of old books. other Polish handicraft goods market in Kiełbaśnicza has
been taken over by artists. In
Krakow, there are many
Amber Goods galleries in the historic city
Amber is a fossilized tree resin centre – for example, Kocioł
that ranges in colour from cream Artystyczny. In Warsaw, there is
through translucent yellow and Zapiecek and Art Gallery ZPAP
orange to rich brown. Most (Union of Polish Artists and
Polish amber comes from the Designers). There are small
Gulf of Gdańsk, and Polish private galleries in many towns,
Highlanders’ sweaters and other local amber goods are largely made even the smaller ones, and
goods at a Zakopane market in Gdańsk and its environs. prices there are, as one might
Amber jewellery is extremely expect, usually lower than in
popular in Poland. It is sold at a Warsaw. All in all, the Polish arts
Handicrafts range of outlets, but to avoid the and crafts scene is a thriving
Traditional handicraft products risk of buying a fake it is best to one, providing the visitor with
such as hand-woven tapestries, go to an established shop. In a wide range of work at
embroidered tablecloths and Gdańsk there are several such attractive prices.
doilies, leather goods,
decorative cut-outs, ceramics
and even furniture are sold in
Cepelia shops, which are to be
found in all big cities. In Krakow,
most of these shops are located
in the Sukiennice in Main
Market Square. In Gdańsk, the
retail outlet Sklep Kaszubski
specializes in artifacts made
by folk artists from Kashubia.
Local markets are also worth
visiting. For example, one of
the best places to buy
highlanders’ sweaters is at Baskets for sale at the market in Sokółka
322 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Department EMPiK Megastore Galeria Piekary Galeria Sztuki
Stores and Warsaw, Poznań, ul. Święty Marcin Współczesnej Parter
Shopping Centres ul. Nowy Świat 15/17. 80/82. Tel 61 811 35 55. Łódź,
Tel 22 451 04 81. ul. Piotrkowska 82.
Arkadia Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Galeria Pod Podłogą Tel 42 633 25 33.
Warsaw, ul. Jana Grodzkie 8. Lublin, ul. Krakowskie
Koneser
Pawła II 82. Tel 22 451 04 66. Przedmieście 62.
Lublin,
Tel 22 323 67 67. Tel 81 532 68 57.
EMPiK Salon ul. Lubartowska 3.
Blue City Megastore “Junior” Galeria Sztuki Tel 81 534 41 60.
Warsaw, Warsaw, Współczesnej Salon Dzieł Sztuki i
al. Jerozolimskie 179. ul. Marszałkowska Wałbrzych, Zamek Książ, Antyków “Paga”
Tel 22 824 45 55. 116/122. ul. Piastów Śląskich 1. Kielce,
Tel 22 451 04 90. Łódź, ul. Piotrkowska 113.
Dom Towarowy ul. Piotrkowska 2.
Bracia Jabłkowscy Pod Globusem Tel 42 637 17 43. Tel 41 368 13 14.
Warsaw, ul. Bracka 25. Krakow, ul. Długa 1. Galeria Top-Art Ceramics and
Tel 22 826 36 44. Tel 12 422 17 39.
Toruń, ul. Kopernika 21. Glass
Galeria Centrum Tel 56 621 08 46.
Handicrafts
Warsaw, ul. Krosno
Marszałkowska 104.
Galeria ZPAP Krosno,
Cepelia
Tel 22 551 45 17. Krakow, Łobzowska 3. ul. Tysiąclecia 13.
Gdańsk, ul. Długa 47/49.
Tel 12 632 46 22. Tel 13 432 87 55.
Galeria Tel 58 301 27 08.
∑ cepelia.pl Kocioł Artystyczny Salon Czasu
Dominikańska
Wrocław, Bydgoszcz, ul. Krakow, ul. Sławkowska Przemyśl,
pl. Dominikański 3. Gdańska 17. 14, 1st Floor. ul. Franciszkańska 31.
Tel 52 322 17 28. Tel 12 429 17 97. Tel 16 678 53 59.
Tel 71 344 95 10.
Częstochowa, ul. NMP 64.
Galeria Krakowska Tel 34 324 43 48. Wydra Gallery Clothes
Krakow, ul. Pawia 5. Warsaw, Marszałkowska Gdańsk,
Tel 12 428 99 00. 99/101. ul. Mariacka 45 & 49. Elux
Tel 22 628 77 57. Tel 58 301 77 79. Warsaw,
Galeria Mokotów
Krakow, Sukiennice. al. Solidarności 92.
Warsaw, ul. Wołoska 12. Yam
Tel 12 422 55 04. Tel 22 636 90 65.
Tel 22 541 41 41. Zakopane,
Olsztyn, ul. Prosta 1/2. Vistula
Klif Tel 89 527 25 97. ul. Krupówki 63.
Tel 18 206 69 83. Warsaw,
Warsaw, Szczecin, al. Jana Pawła II 82.
ul. Okopowa 58/72. plac Żołnierza 19. Zapiecek
Tel 22 531 45 00. Tel 91 434 57 87. Warsaw, ul. Zapiecek 1. Confectionery
Wrocław, Tel 22 831 99 18.
Promenada
ul. Wita Stwosza 55. E. Wedel
Warsaw,
Tel 71 780 78 77. Warsaw, ul. Szpitalna 8.
ul. Ostrobramska 75c. Antiques
Tel 22 827 29 16.
Tel 22 611 39 52.
Amber Goods Antyki Warsaw, ul. Freta 17.
Reduta Katowice, ul. Mariacka 5. Tel 22 636 04 76.
Warsaw, Bursztynowa Wrocław, ul. Rynek 59.
Komnata Tel 32 253 99 22.
al. Jerozolimskie 148. ∑ desakatowice.com
Tel 71 346 06 92.
Tel 22 823 94 00. Gdańsk, ul. Długie
Pobrzeże 1. Wawel
Antykwariat Daes
Stary Browar Tel 58 346 27 17. Krakow,
Wrocław,
Poznań, ul. Półwiejska 42. Rynek Główny 33.
Nord Amber Gallery pl. Kościuszki 15.
Tel 61 667 14 00. Tel 12 423 12 47.
Gdańsk, Tel 71 343 72 80. Łódź, ul. A. Struga 5.
Wola Park ul. Mariacka 44/45. Tel 42 632 93 18.
Desa
Warsaw, ul. Tel 58 305 55 50. Poznań,
Warsaw,
Górczewska 124. ul. Wrocławska 21.
Tel 22 533 40 00. Modern Art ul. Nowy Świat 48.
Tel 22 826 44 66. Tel 61 853 03 67.
Złote Tarasy Art Gallery ZPAP Warsaw, Rynek Starego
Warsaw, ul. Złota 59. Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie Miasta 4/6.
Tel 22 222 22 00. Przedmieście 17. Tel 22 831 16 81.
Tel 22 828 51 70. Bydgoszcz, ul.
Books
Galeria Miejska Gdańska 20.
EMPiK Wrocław, ul. Tel 52 339 30 50.
Krakow, ul. Floriańska 14. Kiełbaśnicza 28. ∑ galeriabwa.
Tel 22 451 40 20. Tel 71 344 67 20. bydgoszcz.pl
324 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Easter Decorations
Easter eggs and lambs are essential on the Easter table. Not only
are the eggs painted, but patterns are also created by scratching
into the shell and applying paper and ribbons.
Wooden angel
Christmas Decorations
Traditional Polish Christmas
decorations range from
painted glass balls to
ornaments made of
Jug made out of a wood, straw, paper or
Sugar lamb Decorated eggs hollow eggshell coloured ribbons.
SHOPPING IN POLAND 325
Colourful
bas-relief
Silver rings
Jewellery
Silver jewellery is a speciality of Polish
craftsmen. It is relatively cheap and
comes in a variety of sophisticated
modern designs. Nativity scene painted on glass
Paper cut-out
Amber
Amber artifacts
Amber ship
epitomize Polish
craftsmanship. The
translucent material
is turned into
original jewellery
and ornaments and
is also used for
lampshades and
such intricate pieces
as model ships.
Art Nouveau-style
lamp Embroidered Doilies
Embroidered tablecloths, doilies
Alcohol and clothes are part of the folk
Pure vodka is a Polish speciality. High-grade vodkas, those art of many regions of Poland.
with a mixture of herbal and other extracts – żubrówka, for The finest embroidery is that
example – and liqueurs such as Goldwasser are also very popular. of Kashubia and Małopolska.
Cut Glass
Cut glass is made in many Silesian
factories. The delicate hand-cut patterns
on perfectly transparent glass are
Pure vodkas: Cracovia Wyborowa Goldwasser appreciated the world over.
326 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN POLAND
Poland has a vibrant cultural life. In all enjoy taking part in more strenuous
the big cities there is an abundance of pastimes, there is much to satisfy, with
things to do: nightclubs, jazz clubs, casinos, trekking, rock climbing, cycling, windsurfing,
theatres, opera, cinemas and concert halls. canoeing, ice sailing and many other sports
In summer, even the smaller tourist resorts (see pp330–31) on offer. There are also
have much to offer, and it is possible to various spectator sports such as boxing,
chance upon many interesting and unusual soccer, speedboat racing and dirt-track
events, such as a jousting tournament or a motorcycle racing. For animal lovers the
music festival. For those travellers who country boasts a number of zoos.
Venues
Many cultural events, apart from
theatrical performances and
classical concerts, take place in
large public halls. In Warsaw,
José Carreras and Edyta Górniak singing at a charity concert many spectacles are organized
in the Sala Kongresowa in the
Information Ticket Reservations Pałac Kultury. In Katowice, a hall
Visitors looking for information In Warsaw, advance booking called Spodek (The Flying
on Poland’s cultural events for plays, concerts and other Saucer) is the venue for both
should consult the local cultural events in the capital concerts and sports events.
tourist information centres. is dealt with by the ZASP box Wrocław has the Hala Ludowa
In larger cities, information office. In Krakow, tickets can (People’s Hall) and Gdańsk the
bulletins are also issued – in be bought in advance at the Hala Olivia. In summer, concerts
Krakow, for example, there is and festivals are often organized
Karnet. The local supplement in amphitheatres, for example
that is folded into the main in the famous Opera Leśna
copy of Friday’s Gazeta (Forest Opera) in Sopot, the
Wyborcza is another useful amphitheatre in Opole or in
source of information. Details Mrągowo in the Great Mazurian
of cultural events are also Lakes region. In Szczecin and
published in the local press Olsztyn, artistic shows take
and online. place in the castle courtyard.
Bulletins printed in English Castles, palaces and churches
are available in most large all over Poland also host various
hotels and from tourist cultural events.
information centres. These
are entitled Welcome to
Poland… and form a series Theatres
issued for Warsaw, Krakow, In Poland, almost all big cities
Poznań, Gdańsk, Wrocław have their own theatres – the
and Upper Silesia. The Warsaw country has, in total, over 80.
Voice, published in English, Although theatrical companies
has a comprehensive guide move out of town for the
to cultural events in and summer holiday season, their
outside Warsaw. A giraffe in one of Poland’s several zoos premises are often used for
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O L A N D 327
Musicals, Opera
and Ballet
For those who do not
understand the Polish language,
musicals, opera and ballet can
provide the best form of
entertainment, and there is
certainly much to choose from in
these genres. Poland has many
operetta companies. The Teatr
Muzyczny in Gdynia puts on The folk dance group Mazowsze in Krakovian folk costume
328 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Tournaments and
Street Markets
Many of the tournaments
Musical performance at the Dominican Street Market in Gdańsk and street festivals that take
place in Poland are colourful
Rock, Jazz and Łańcut Palace, the Chopin events and are popular with
Country Music Music Festival in Duszniki Zdrój tourists. Medieval jousting
Student clubs and music pubs and the Moniuszko Music tournaments are organized in
are the best places to go to hear Festival in Kudowa Zdrój. medieval castles, some of which
rock, jazz and country music in Events of international renown – Bytów, Gniew and Golub-
Poland. In most big cities it is include Warsaw Autumn, the Dobrzyń – have witnessed
quite easy to obtain information great modern music festival, dramatic though bloodless
on current shows. Polish rock and the excellent Wratislavia skirmishes. As well as the joust-
bands are on tour throughout Cantans, a religious song ing tournaments and displays of
the year, and in summer they festival that takes place in archery, there are often feasts of
usually perform in tourist Wrocław in September. meat roasted on open-air fires.
resorts. There are many festivals Lovers of church music gather Church fairs, festivals, picnics
for particular kinds of music, in Hajnówka in June for the and street markets also take
so whatever the visitor’s taste Festival of Orthodox Church place in towns and villages
it will very likely be catered for. Music. In summer, churches throughout Poland. The best-
and cathedrals with especially known include the Dominican
fine organs host festivals of Street Market held in Gdańsk
Festivals, Concerts organ music; these take place at the beginning of August and
and Reviews in Gdańsk-Oliwa, Kamień St John’s Street Market, held in
Poland hosts many festivals, Pomorski, Koszalin, Słupsk, Poznań. As well as the numerous
both local and international. Święta Lipka, Pasym, Warsaw, stalls selling an extraordinary
Two of the major drama festivals Krakow and other towns. Music range of goods, there are
are Malta International Drama lovers also enjoy such major concerts, games and other
Festival, held from late June to international competitions as events to suit every taste.
early July in the streets and the Chopin Piano Competition,
theatres of Poznań, and which takes place every five
Kontakt, which takes place years in Warsaw in October,
in Toruń from May to June. and the Wieniawski Violin
In Warsaw, there is also the Competition, which is held in
Garden Theatres Competition Poznań every four years.
(Konkurs Teatrów Ogródkowych), Song is celebrated at
which lasts all summer, and the the Polish Music
International Festival of Street Festival in Opole
Theatre (Międzynarodowy in June and at the
Festiwal Teatrów Ulicznych) in International
Jelenia Góra in late September. Festival of Song in
Warsaw Theatre Meetings Sopot in August.
(Warszawskie Spotkania Country Picnic,
Teatralne) are also among the which takes place
most exciting theatrical events. in Mrągowo in
Opera festivals, such as the July, is a country music
Mozart Festival in Warsaw, and festival. Jazz festivals are
ballet festivals, for example in also very popular. Major
Poznań, are also popular. The jazz events include
most famous classical music the Warsaw Jazz
festivals are the Chamber Music Jamboree in late
Days, organized in May in October, Jazz on A knight at a tournament at the castle in Gniew
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O L A N D 329
DIRECTORY
Information and Współczesny (Con- Classical Music Rock, Jazz and
Ticket Sales temporary Theatre) Country Music
Filharmonia
Warsaw, ul. Mokotowska
Cultural Information Krakow, ul. Zwierzyniecka Harenda
13. Tel 22 825 59 79. Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie
Centre 1. Tel 12 619 87 21.
∑ wspolczesny.pl Przedmieście 4–6. Tel 22
Krakow, ul. św. Jana 2. ∑ filharmonia.krakow.
Tel 12 429 51 50. pl 826 29 00. ∑ harenda.pl
Musicals, Opera
∑ karnet.krakow.pl Jazz Club u Muniaka
and Ballet Filharmonia Bałtycka
∑ pogodzinach.pl Gdańsk, ul. Ołowianka 1. Krakow, ul. Floriańska 3.
Kasy ZASP (Central Opera Tel 58 320 62 62. Tel 12 423 12 05.
Box Office) Wroclaw, ul. Świdnicka 35. ∑ filharmonia.gda.pl Jazz Club Tygmont
Warsaw, al. Jerozolimskie 25. Tel 71 370 88 00.
Filharmonia Warsaw, ul. Mazowiecka
Tel 22 621 94 54. ∑ opera.wroclaw.pl 6/8. Tel 22 828 34 09.
Częstochowska
Opera Leśna Częstochowa, ul. Wilsona ∑ tygmont.com.pl
Theatres Sopot, ul. Moniuszki 12. 16. Tel 34 324 42 30. Pod Jaszczurami
Tel 58 555 84 00. ∑ filharmonia.com.pl Krakow, Rynek Główny 8.
Ateneum
Warsaw, ul. Jaracza 2. ∑ operalesna.sopot.pl Tel 12 429 45 38.
Filharmonia im. M.
Tel 22 625 24 21. Karłowicza ∑ podjaszczurami.pl
Opera i operetka
∑ teatrateneum.pl Krakow, ul. Lubicz 48. Szczecin, ul. Małopolska Regeneracja
Tel 12 296 61 00. 48. Tel 91 430 95 10. Warsaw, ul. Puławska 61.
Narodowy (National
Theatre) ∑ opera.krakow.pl Filharmonia Łódzka Tel 22 646 38 08.
Warsaw, Plac Teatralny. Opera Śląska im. A. Rubinsteina
Tel 22 690 26 09. Łódź, Narutowicza 20/22.
Nightclubs
Bytom, ul. Moniuszki 21.
∑ narodowy.pl Tel 32 396 68 00. Tel 42 664 79 99. Blue Note Club
∑ filharmonia.lodz.pl Poznań, C.K. Zamek, ul.
Powszechny ∑ opera-slaska.pl
Warsaw, ul. Zamoyskiego 20. Filharmonia Kościuszki. Tel 61 657 07
Polski Teatr Tańca 77. ∑ bluenote.
Tel 22 818 48 19. Narodowa
Poznań, ul. Kozia 4. poznan.pl
∑ powszechny.art.pl Warsaw, ul. Sienkiewicza
Tel 61 852 42 42.
10. Tel 22 551 71 11. Hybrydy
Teatr im. J. ∑ ptt-poznan.pl
∑ filharmonia.pl Warsaw, ul. Złota 7/9.
Słowackiego
Roma (Musical Filharmonia Tel 22 822 30 03.
Krakow, pl. Świętego
Theatre) ∑ hybrydy.com.pl
Ducha 1. Poznańska
Warsaw, ul. Nowogrodzka Poznań, ul. św. Marcin 81.
Tel 12 424 45 00. Park
49. Tel 22 628 89 98. Tel 61 852 47 08. Warsaw, al.
∑ slowacki.krakow.pl
∑ teatrroma.pl ∑ filharmonia Niepodległości 196.
Teatr Ósmego Dnia poznanska.pl Tel 22 825 91 65.
Śląski Teatr Tańca
Poznań, ul. Ratajczaka 44.
Bytom, ul. Żeromskiego Filharmonia im. Parlament
Tel 61 855 20 86.
27. Tel 32 281 82 53. Witolda Gdańsk, ul. św. Ducha 2.
∑ osmego.art.pl
Studio-Buffo Lutosławskiego Tel 58 320 13 65.
Teatr im. St. Wrocław, ul. Piłsudskiego
Witkiewicza Warsaw, Konopnickiej 6. Platinium
19. Tel 71 342 20 01.
Zakopane, Chramcówki Tel 22 622 63 93. Warsaw, ul. Fredry 6.
∑ nfm.wroclaw.pl
∑ studiobuffo.com.pl Tel 694 413 439.
15. Tel 18 206 82 97.
NOSPR ∑ platiniumclub.pl
Teatr Stary Teatr Muzyczny
Katowice, plac Wojciecha
Poznań, ul. Niezłomnych Remont
Krakow, pl. Szczepański 1. Kilara 1. Tel 32 251 89 03.
1a. Tel 61 852 17 86. Warsaw, ul. Waryńskiego
Tel 12 422 40 40. ∑ nospr.org.pl
12. Tel 22 234 91 11.
Teatr Wielki-Opera Teatr Muzyczny w Opera Bałtycka
Gliwicach Stodoła
Narodowa Gdańsk, al. Zwycięstwa 15. Warsaw, ul. Batorego 10.
Warsaw, pl. Teatralny 1. Gliwice, ul. Nowy Świat 55. Tel 58 763 49 12. Tel 22 825 60 31.
Tel 22 692 02 00. Tel 32 230 67 18. ∑ operabaltycka.pl ∑ stodola.pl
∑ teatrwielki.pl ∑ teatr.gliwice.pl
Studio Koncertowe
Teatr Żydowski Teatr Wielki S1 im. W.
Warsaw, pl. Grzybowski Łódź, pl. Dąbrowskiego 1. Lutosławskiego
12/16. Tel 22 620 62 81. Tel 42 633 99 60. Warsaw, ul. Woronicza 17.
Tel 22 645 52 52.
Wrocławski Teatr Teatr Wielki-Opera
Pantomimy Narodowa Teatr Muzyczny
Wrocław, al. Dębowa 16. Warsaw, pl. Teatralny 1. Gdynia, pl. Grunwaldzki 1.
Tel 71 337 21 04. Tel 22 692 02 00. Tel 58 661 60 00.
∑ pantomima.wroc.pl ∑ teatrwielki.pl ∑ muzyczny.org
330 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Horse Riding
Polish studs have long enjoyed
high esteem for the quality of
their horses. Even when they
were nationalized under
Communist rule, they were
highly regarded. Horse riding is
once again popular, attracting Hiking in the foothills of the Tatra Mountains (see pp170–71)
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O L A N D 331
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Poland’s popularity with visitors has been Railway stations in big cities have been
growing steadily since the mid-1990s, modernized, although those in smaller
and the country’s infrastructure has towns offer only limited facilities. Poland’s
undergone major changes as a result. road network has also undergone a
Tourist information centres are easy to significant overhaul, and there are now
find, and tourist-friendly signs help visitors a number of motorways linking the major
navigate their way around the major towns cities. Elsewhere, roads are frequently busy
and cities. Credit and debit cards are widely with traffic and quite often poorly surfaced,
accepted, and Wi-Fi Internet is a common so travelling around the country by road can
feature of hotels, restaurants and bars. be time-consuming.
Customs Information
If you are travelling to or from
another EU country, there are
few restrictions on items that
can be brought into and taken
out of Poland, for personal use.
Visitors from outside the EU
should check the customs
regulations of their home
country – there are likely to
Relaxing at a café in the Cloth Hall, on Krakow’s Main Market Square be limits on the amount of
cigarettes, alcoholic beverages,
When to Go many guesthouses, hotels, toiletries and gifts that can be
Poland enjoys warm summers; clubs and restaurants in taken home. The maximum
mild springs and autumns; and popular coastal resorts and value of currency that can
cold, dry winters. Spring and lakeside spots are closed. be brought into or taken
summer are frequently hit by out of Poland is €10,000 (or
rain, so it is wise for visitors to equivalent). Sums in excess
pack waterproof clothing Visas and Passports of this must be declared to
regardless of the season. Citizens of countries in the the customs authority.
Spring and summer draw European Union, the USA,
big crowds to much-visited Australia, Canada and New
cities such as Warsaw and Zealand can enter Poland
Krakow, as well as to the without a visa, on production of
country’s coastal, lakeside a valid passport. Visitors from
and mountain resorts. Many other countries should check
cultural institutions, such as the latest visa regulations with
theatres and concert halls, their local Polish embassy.
tend to close in the summer; Poland is a member of the
however, big museums and Schengen group of European
galleries are at their busiest Union countries, which means
at this time. The skiing season that there are unlikely to be any
runs from the end of November border controls when entering
until mid-March. Poland from another Schengen-
If you are travelling in peak zone country.
season, it is a good idea to Foreign embassies are
book accommodation in located in Warsaw, although The tourist information centre in
advance. In spring and autumn, a few countries also maintain Zakopane
A horse-drawn carriage in Warsaw’s Castle Square
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 335
Travelling on a Budget
Young visitors and students
travelling to Poland can enjoy
great benefits by applying for
international youth and
student cards prior to their trip.
The ISIC (International Student
Identity Card) and the
Crowds celebrating the annual Gay Pride parade in Warsaw European Youth Card, for
example, entitle holders to
Travellers with Special screen jukebox. In Krakow, the reduced rates in museums,
Needs Stanisław Lem Garden of tourist attractions and inter-
Facilities for the disabled in Experiences is an outdoor city buses, as well as to
Poland are improving. All science park involving lots discounts at a wide range
renovated and modern public of opportunities for play. of businesses throughout
buildings have ramps or lifts for Poland, from hostels and car
the convenience of disabled hire firms to restaurants and
people. An increasing number of Gay and Lesbian entertainment venues. The
trams and buses have low-floor Travellers businesses offering discounts
entrances for easy wheelchair Poland is a conservative- display the logos of the cards
access, and special wheelchair- minded country in which gay in their windows.
friendly taxis are also and lesbian communities An ISIC card is available to
available. Some pedestrian have not yet met with anyone who is either a full-time
crossings have low kerbs, across-the-board public student or under the age of 26.
and the number of those acceptance. There is a It can be purchased in your
equipped with an audio Gay Pride march in home country or through youth
message for the blind is Warsaw in June, and a tourism specialist Almatur,
on the rise. However, Tolerance march in which has offices in most major
moving around in a Krakow in April/May; Polish cities, providing you have
wheelchair is not always however, both events documentary evidence of your
easy on account of the Parking sign for are frequently met with status. The European Youth
cars parked on disabled people counter-demonstrations Card is available to anyone
pavements. Most organized by religious under the age of 30 and can
shops in cities have groups opposed to gay rights. be bought from numerous
wheelchair access. Warsaw is the most liberal of outlets throughout Europe
Poland’s cities, with a handful of or online via the European
gay-friendly hotels and plenty Youth Card website.
Travelling with Children
The Polish are a family-oriented
people, and they quickly warm
to travellers with small children.
Many public parks feature play
areas, and facilities for kids are
improving in all of Poland’s
major tourist attractions.
In Warsaw, the Copernicus
Centre is largely devoted to
children, with hands-on science
experiments for all ages and
interactive displays for
teenagers. Also in the capital is
the Chopin Museum (see p84),
which has a kids’ corner with
educational toys and a touch- The Copernicus Centre, where the science exhibits will appeal to both children and adults
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 337
Responsible Tourism
Green issues have made little
impact on Poland as a whole.
A handful of hostels advertise
themselves as eco-friendly, and
there are moves to promote
rural B&B tourism under the
“ecotourism” banner, but green Fresh produce on sale at the Stary Kleparz market, Krakow
DIRECTORY
Embassies and United States Wrocław Krakow: Rynek
Consulates Stolarska 9, Krakow. Rynek 14. Tel 71 344 31 11. Główny 27.
Tel 12 424 51 00. ∑ wroclaw-info.pl Tel 12 422 46 68.
Australia ∑ krakow.usconsulate.
Poznań: ul. Ratajczaka 8.
ul. Nowogrodzka 11, gov Travelling with Tel 61 855 76 33.
Warsaw.
Tourist Children Wrocław: al. Armii
Tel 22 521 34 44.
Information Copernicus Centre Krajowej 12a.
∑ australia.pl
Tel 71 343 41 35.
Wybrzeże Kościuskowskie
Canada Polish National ∑ almatur.pl
20, Warsaw.
ul. Matejki 1/5, Warsaw. Tourist Office
Tel 22 596 41 00. European Youth Card
Tel 22 584 31 00. ∑ poland.travel
∑ kopernik.org.pl ∑ eyca.pl
∑ canada.pl Gdańsk
Stanisław Lem ISIC
Ireland Długi Targ 28/29.
Garden of ∑ isic.org
ul. Mysia 5, Warsaw. Tel 58 301 43 55.
∑ gdansk4u.pl Experiences
Tel 22 849 66 33. Aleja pokoju, Krakow. Responsible Travel
∑ embassyofireland.pl Krakow Tel 12 346 1285.
Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny. BioBazar
New Zealand ∑ ogroddoswiadczen.
Tel 12 433 73 10. ul. Żelazna 51/53, Warsaw.
al. Ujazdowskie 51, pl
∑ krakow-info.com
Hala Mirowska
Warsaw.
Poznań Travelling on pl. Mirowski 1, Warsaw.
Tel 22 521 05 00. Stary Rynek 59/60.
∑ nzembassy.com/
a Budget Stary Kleparz
Tel 61 852 61 56.
poland Rynek Kleparski, Krakow.
∑ poznan.pl Almatur
United Kingdom Warsaw Warsaw: ul. Kopernika 23.
sw. Anny 9, Krakow. PKiN (Palace of Culture & Tel 22 826 26 39.
Tel 12 421 70 30. Science), pl. Defilad 1. Gdańsk:
∑ ukinpoland.fco. Map 3 A1/B1. Tel 22 831 al. Grunwaldzka 140.
gov.uk 78 53. ∑ warsawtour.pl Tel 58 301 29 31.
338 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
head for the casualty you are entitled to, and where
department of one of the and how to claim. You may still
big city hospitals. The main have to pay in advance to
pharmacies and hospitals are obtain treatment and claim the
listed in the Directory. money back later. As not all
treatments are covered, it is
advisable to take out additional
Lost and Stolen Property health insurance; you must
If you lose something in a café, keep official medical reports
restaurant or museum in Poland, and receipts in order to recoup
there is a good chance that the the costs of treatment.
staff will keep it for a day or two Make sure you travel with all
in the expectation that you will relevant insurance documents.
return. It is a good idea to write Keep a copy in your hotel room
your phone number inside bags or with a reliable family member
and wallets – in the event of loss, The old-fashioned façade of a pharmacy back home.
a good citizen or a policeman in Krakow
may well call to inform you that DIRECTORY
it has been found. may be subject to a fee, which
If you lose property on the is often required in advance, In an Emergency
Warsaw public transport system, along with a passport for
Ambulance, Police
call 022 663 32 97 (for trams), identification. and Fire
022 655 42 42 (metro) or 022 Treatment for minor ailments Tel 112.
699 72 35 (suburban trains). is available at pharmacies,
Items left on planes, inter-city where helpful trained staff can Hospitals and
trains or buses will be kept at lost provide advice on remedies. 24-Hour Pharmacies
property offices at the airport, Polish pharmacies stock all
railway station and bus station kinds of international over- Gdańsk
respectively. There are two lost the-counter medicines. Apteka Dyżurna
Wały Jagiellońskie 28/30.
property offices in Krakow –
Tel 58 320 78 37.
one for items lost on public
transport (MPK Transport Office, Travel and Health Krakow
ul. Brożka 3, Tel 12 254 11 50), Insurance Szpital im. Gabriela Narutowicza
and one for items misplaced Travel insurance that includes ul. Prądnicka 35.
elsewhere in the city (Biuro provision for health care is Tel 12 416 22 66.
Rzeczy Znalezionych, ul. highly recommended. The Apteka Pod Opatrznością
Wielicka 28, Tel 12 616 57 13). longer you stay abroad, the Karmelicka 23.
For any stolen items, contact more important it is to ensure Tel 12 631 19 80.
the police (see Directory). that you have substantial health Warsaw
cover. Many airlines and travel Apteka Beata
agents offer insurance when al. Solidarności 149.
Hospitals and you book your holiday. World Tel 22 620 08 18.
Pharmacies Nomads is a reputable service Also: Warszawa Centralna
Both state and private health that offers travel insurance to train station
care are available in Poland. citizens of 150 countries. Medicover
Staff are highly trained and EU nationals are entitled to al. Rzeczypospolitej 5.
professional in both sectors, state health care in Poland on Tel 500 900 999.
though private hospitals are production of a valid European ∑ medicover.pl
more likely to have up-to-date Health Insurance Card (EHIC).
equipment. In the state sector, In the UK, this can be obtained Travel and Health
first aid is provided free of from a post office or online. A Insurance
charge, but other treatment booklet details what health care European Health
Insurance Card
For UK residents:
∑ ehic.org.uk
For Irish residents:
∑ ehic.ie
World Nomads
∑ worldnomads.com
Currency
The Polish unit of currency is the złoty, a term that
literally means “golden” and that dates back to the
Middle Ages, when gold pieces were used. Złoty
is most commonly abbreviated to zł, although
you will see the abbreviation PLN in banks and on
your credit card statement. One złoty is made up
of 100 groszy (gr). Polish coins come in denomin-
ations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 gr and 1, 2 and 5 zł. 10 złoty
Bank notes come in
denominations of 10, 20,
50, 100 and 200 zł. Each
bank note bears the
portrait of a Polish king.
20 złoty
Banknotes
Polish banknotes are issued in denominations of
10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 zł. All bear the portrait of
Polish rulers and are embossed to make them
recognizable to blind people. In addition to
standard protection against fraud, the 100- and
200-zł notes are also marked with holograms.
200 złoty
Coins
Polish coins are issued in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy,
and 1, 2 and 5 złoty. The reverse bears the Polish eagle wearing a crown.
The smallest coins – the 1-, 2- and 5-grosz pieces – are made of copper
alloy. The 10-, 20- and 50-grosz coins and the 1-złoty piece are made of
nickel alloy. The 2- and 5-złoty pieces are gold- and silver-coloured.
20 groszy
Television
Most hotel rooms will have a
TV offering a handful of Polish-
language stations and a choice
of German-, English-, Italian-
and French-language stations.
News channels like CNN or
BBC are more common than
entertainment or film channels.
Polish TV stations broadcast a
lot of English-language films
and drama, although these are
usually dubbed into Polish or
People using the Internet at a Krakow bar are narrated by just one person.
T R AV E L I N F OR M AT ION
Most main Polish cities have international car ferries are a good way of approaching
airports, and every region in the country can from Scandinavia and northern Germany.
be reached by air. The flexibility offered by Poland’s rail network is extensive, but station
budget airlines makes it easy to enter the infrastructure and train carriages are in
country at one airport and leave it from various states of modernization. Polish roads
another, enabling visitors to travel around are of mixed quality; modern highways link
more. Coaches from the UK and Western several cities, but slow, traffic-clogged roads
Europe run to virtually every Polish city; are more common.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air
Air France
∑ airfrance.co.uk
Austrian Airlines
∑ uk.austrian.com
British Airways
∑ britishairways.com
easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
The check-in area at Krakow’s John Paul II Airport
Eurolot
Two daytime bus routes (Nos. than tickets booked through ∑ eurolot.com
208 and 292) link the airport to travel agents or tickets booked Germanwings
the main railway station (a near to your date of travel. ∑ germanwings.com
journey time of 40 minutes), Low-cost airlines should
Jet2
running through parts of western be your first port of call if you ∑ jet2.com
Krakow, where several hotels are are looking for inexpensive
situated. Between 11pm and deals. Be aware, however, that LOT
5am, night bus No. 902 makes these airlines usually charge ∑ lot.com
the same journey. extra for each item of hold Lufthansa
The taxi journey into town luggage and add booking fees ∑ lufthansa.com
takes 20–30 minutes and costs dependent on what kind of
Ryanair
about 50zł (expect to pay more credit or debit card you use,
∑ ryanair.com
at night and weekends). driving up costs considerably.
Some airlines offer reductions Wizz Air
for children under 12. Children ∑ wizzair.com
Other Airports under 2 years old usually travel
Airports at Bydgoszcz, Gdańsk, free, providing they occupy Airports
Katowice, Łódź, Poznań, the same seat as the Krakow-Balice John Paul II
Szczecin, Rzeszów and Wrocław accompanying parent. Airport
all receive flights from the UK Tel 12 295 58 00 or 801 055 000.
and Western Europe, mostly run ∑ krakowairport.pl
by budget airlines. Arriving by Sea
Warsaw Chopin Airport
Gdańsk, Łódź, Poznań and The ports of Świnoujście and Tel 22 650 42 20.
Wrocław are popular city-break Gdynia have connections with ∑ lotnisko-chopina.pl
destinations; Bydgoszcz is close northern Germany and
to the medieval city of Toruń; Scandinavia. Stena Line Arriving by Sea
and Katowice is a convenient operates a service to Gdynia
gateway to south-central Poland. from Karlskrona in Denmark; Finnlines
Szczecin is a good entry point for Finnlines serves Gdynia from ∑ finnlines.com
the Baltic coast, and Rzeszów is a Rostock and Helsinki. Polferries Polferries
great springboard to the links Gdańsk with Nynäshamn, ∑ polferries.com.pl
mountains of the rural southeast. near Sweden’s capital
Stena Line
Gdańsk, Poznań and Wrocław Stockholm, while Świnoujście ∑ stenaline.nl
airports are close to their has a regular Unity Line
respective cities and have good connection with Ystadt, Unity Line
bus links. Szczecin, Katowice in southern Sweden. ∑ unityline.pl
and Rzeszów are a bit further For information on fares,
out, and connecting buses are visit the relevant website.
Ferry Ports
less frequent. Gdańsk
Tel 58 343 18 87.
Left Luggage
There is a charge for the left
luggage service – often a kind
of insurance, the price being
dependent on the declared
value of the luggage. Travellers
should, of course, make sure that
their luggage is fully insured
before travelling to Poland.
The larger stations have a
system of coin-operated
luggage lockers.
Kraków Główny, Krakow’s historic main railway station
Słupsk Gdynia
Kaliningrad Mariampol
Kołobrzeg GDAŃSK
Sopot Budzisko
Świnoujście Koszalin Elbląg
Tczew
Starogard Gd.
Malbork
Olsztyn Giżycko
Szczecinek Chojnice Ełk
SZCZECIN
Iława Ostróda Kuźnica
Pasewalk Białostocka Hrodna
Stargard
Szcz. Piła
Białystok
Bydgoszcz
Toruń
Kostrzyn Inowrocław
Berlin Gorzów Ciechanów Bielsk
Wlkp. Podlaski
Gniezno
Świecko Włocławek
POZNAŃ Połowce
Frankfurt
Konin
Kutno WARSAW Mińsk Maz. Terespol
Zielona
Góra Łowicz Siedlce
Brest
Leszno Kalisz Łuków Biała
ŁÓDŹ Skierniewice Podlaska
Głogów Ostrów Wlkp.
Tarnobrzeg Vladimir
Kłodzko Zamość
Kędzierzyn-
Koźle Stalowa
Wola
KATOWICE Hrebenne
Boboszów
Racibórz Tychy KRAKOW Dębica
Rava
Prague
Rus’ka
Opava Oświęcim Tarnów Rzeszów
Medyka
Ostrava Bielsko- Przemyśl
Biała
Nowy Sącz Lviv
Nowy Targ
0 kilometres 150
Zakopane
0 miles 150
348 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Coach Stations
Coach stations in Poland vary
widely – Krakow, for instance,
has a modern, well-signposted
terminal, while many other
cities have old-fashioned, badly
lit stations. Some have good A coach parked outside the bus station at Szczecin
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 349
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Coach
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.com
Jordan
Tel 12 421 21 25.
∑ jordan.pl
Sindbad
Tel 12 429 69 11.
The vibrant livery of PolskiBus ∑ sindbad.krakow.pl
Local Buses
Buses are frequently the only
means of travelling to small
towns and villages not included
on the Polish railway network.
Rural bus services are very
reliable and punctual, but the
buses themselves are often old
and uncomfortable. Tickets are
available from the driver. Be A typical bus stop in Gdańsk
350 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Breakdown Services
National Emergency Road
Service
Tel 96 37.
Car Hire
Avis
Krakow, ul. Lubicz 23.
Tel 601 200 702.
A breakdown van at a garage in Gdańsk Warsaw Airport.
Tel 22 650 48 72.
shopping mall developments petrol stations in the ∑ avis.pl
just outside city centres. countryside may close at Europcar
In central Warsaw there are 6pm or for the weekend. Gdańsk Airport.
parking meters in operation, Tel 58 348 12 22.
as well as many car parks where Krakow Airport.
you pay a fee to an attendant, Breakdown Services
Tel 12 257 79 00.
although the car park is If your car breaks down, the
Warsaw Airport.
unguarded. National Emergency Road
Tel 22 650 25 64.
In the main streets of Service will send help to the ∑ europcar.pl
Gdańsk and Gdynia, coin- scene – usually within 1 hour of
operated parking meters your call, but quicker if you are Hertz
have been installed. near a major urban area. Fees Krakow, al. Focha 1.
Central Wrocław and Poznań for their services depend on Tel 12 429 62 62.
have a system of parking cards, where you are and what the Warsaw Airport.
which are available fault is, so it is Tel 22 650 28 96.
from newsagents; the recommended that ∑ hertz.com.pl
driver circles the date you take out full Joka
and time of parking breakdown insur-
Gdańsk Airport.
and places the card ance. The website Tel 58 320 56 46.
in the windscreen. www.pomoc-
Krakow, ul. Zacisze 7.
In Krakow, most drogowa.pl has
Tel 601 545 368.
of the Old Town is contact telephone
Warsaw, ul. Okopowa 47.
a no-parking zone numbers for car
Tel 22 636 63 93.
for non-residents, mechanics in each
although there are Warsaw town sign region of the country. Wrocław Airport.
usually a limited Tel 71 781 81 88.
∑ joka.com.pl
number of spaces available for
hotel guests. Elsewhere in Car Hire
Krakow, a system of parking All major international car rental
cards similar to that in place in companies – including Avis, pleasure. The rolling lake-
Wrocław and Poznań applies. Europcar and Hertz – operate speckled countryside east
Illegally parked cars are prone in Poland, as well as the Polish of Olsztyn, taking in waterside
to clamping. Details of where to firm Joka. It is best to book a settlements such as Mikołajki,
pay the fine and get the clamp particular make of car before Giżycko and Węgorzewo, is
removed will be posted on the your arrival. Key conditions are an ideal introduction to
windscreen. a valid full driving licence and a northeastern Poland –
minimum age of 21 (or 25, although take note that
depending on the company). this area can be busy on
Petrol Before signing the rental summer weekends. A highlight
In big cities and on major roads, agreement, it is also advisable of the southeast of the country
finding a 24-hour petrol station to check the level of insurance is the Bieszczady Mountains
is not a problem. In addition to cover provided. Travellers would Tour (see pp174–5), which
selling fuel and car accessories, be wise to take out adequate takes in bucolic villages and
petrol stations usually have insurance independently. wooded valleys. South of
shops. Those outside towns also Krakow, the Pieniny mountain
have bars where travellers can trail (see pp172–3), taking in
have a coffee or a hot meal. Great Drives Sczawnica, Krościenko,
Drivers planning journeys to Poland is a largely rural country Czorsztyn and Niedzica,
rural areas, however, should fill and driving away from the involves castles, subalpine
up in advance because most main cities can be a great meadows and lakes.
352 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Trams and Buses
Krakow
Tel 12 191 50.
∑ mpk.krakow.pl
Poznań
Tel 61 646 33 44.
An official taxi waiting for a fare in Gdańsk
∑ ztm.poznan.pl
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Architecture (cont.) Baltic coast 19, 25, 112, 237, 256, 257,
main entries 17th-century 51 258, 263, 269
18th-century 53 Bamberg 221
A Baroque 28 Bandura, Jerzy, Monument to the
Abbeys effects of Partition rule on 22 Battle of Grunwald (Grunwald) 288
Benedictine (Grudziądz) 273 Gothic 26–7, 47 Bank of Poland (Warsaw) 93
Benedictine (Legnickie Pole) 185 Historicism 29 Banks 340
Benedictine (Sieciechów) 124 Mannerist 27, 28, 49 Banquet (Chwistek) 87
Benedictine (Święty Krzyż) 157 Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Housing Barańczak, Stanisław 31
Benedictine (Tyniec) 151 Estate (Wrocław) 203 Baranów Sandomierski 27, 49, 159
Cistercian (Chełmno) 274 Modernist 29, 196, 223 Barbican (Krakow) 12, 47, 139
Cistercian (Henryków) 204 Museum of Architecture (Wrocław) Barbican (Warsaw) 12, 66, 69, 73
Cistercian (Kamieniec Ząbkowicki) 204 196 Barczewo 287
Cistercian (Koprzywnica) 26, 45 Neo-Classical 29 Baroque
Cistercian (Mogiła) 151 Polish Society of Architects (Gdańsk) architecture 28
Cistercian (Pelplin) 272 249 literature 30
Cistercian (Sulejów) 26, 45, 233 Renaissance 27 Barth, Wilhelm, Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245
Cistercian (Wąchock) 26, 45, 158 Romanesque 26, 230–1 Bartolini, Lorenzo 128
Academic Grammar School (Gdańsk) Traditional 29 Baryczkowski Crucifix 72
252 Arkadia 121 Basilicas see Churches
Academies Arp, Hans 235 Bath House (Busko Zdrój) 161
Academy of Dramatic Arts (Warsaw) Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245 Batory, Stefan 49, 61
90 Arsenal (Warsaw) 92 Battle of Grunwald (Matejko) 86
Academy of Fine Arts (Krakow) 139 Arsenal (Zamość) 130 Battles
Academy of Fine Arts (Toruń) 278 Art Cecora 50
Academy of Sciences (Krakow) 55 Academy of Fine Arts (Toruń) 278 Grunwald 46–7, 126, 139, 217, 288
Arian Academy (Leszno) 216 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) Legnica 185
Chełmno Academy 274 140–1 Racławice 195
European Academy (Krakow) 151 folk art 95, 168, 197 Vienna 50, 51, 72, 82, 91, 103
Polish Academy of Sciences (Warsaw) Painted Cottage competition Warsaw 56
81, 84 (Zalipie) 168 Baudarth, Paul, calvary (Kalwaria
Admission prices 334 religious art 201, 225, 229, 261 Zebrzydowska) 167
Affaita, Izydor, Capuchin Church shopping for 321 Baumann, Fryderyk 179
(Warsaw) 91 socialist realism 128 Bay, Karol
Agricola, Karol Ludwik, Łazienki Palace see also Art Deco; Art Nouveau; Church of St Martin (Warsaw) 73
(Warsaw) 100 Museums and galleries Church of the Visitation (Warsaw) 83
Agriculture 23 Art Deco 85 Bażanka, Kacper
Ahorn, Andrzej, Jesuit church (Piotrków Art Nouveau 28, 29 Church of Saints Peter and Paul
Trybunalski) 233 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) (Krakow) 142
Aigner, Christian Piotr 140–1 Piarist Church (Krakow) 140
Church of St Anne (Warsaw) 81 houses at Krynica 172 Beautiful Madonna (Gdańsk) 245
Łańcut Palace 179 Jama Michalika (Krakow) 140 Beautiful Madonna (Wrocław) 86
Namiestnikowski Palace (Warsaw) 82 Józef Mehoffer Museum (Krakow) Będzin 211
Air travel 344–5 141 castle 26, 45
Albrecht of Prussia 204 Krakow Franciscan Church 142 Behem, Baltazar 48
Alcohol 34 Leopold Kinderman Villa (Łódź) 234 Beinhardt, Jakub, Poznań Cathedral 224
shopping for 322, 325 Museum of Mazovia (Płock) 118 Belarus 36, 292, 295
Aleksander of Płock 120 Natural History Museum (Wrocław) Belloti, Giuseppe (Józef ) Simone 75
Alexander I (the Jagiellonian) 61, 99 202 Carmelite Church (Warsaw) 82
Altmark 50 Wilam Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 276 Church of the Holy Cross (Warsaw) 83
Amber Arthur, King 250 Church of St Anne (Warsaw) 81
goods and jewellery 237, 243, 325 Artus Court (Gdańsk) 13, 247, 248, 249, Ład church 227
museum (Gdańsk) 248 250 Mother of God of Passau (Warsaw) 82
shopping for 321, 325 Asam, Cosmas Damian, Church of St Berg, Max, People’s Hall (Wrocław) 202
Amberg, George von, Dukes’ Castle Jadwiga (Legnickie Pole) 185 Berlin 260
(Legnica) 185 Asnyk, Adam 149 Bernadoni, Giovanni Maria, church
Angevin Dynasty 60 ATMs 340 (Kalwaria Zebrzydowska) 167
Anna of Mazovia 75, 77, 81 August II 52, 61, 85, 99, 121, 128 Bernhuser, Church of St Nicholas
Anna Vasa of Sweden 275, 276 ashes of 91 (Elbląg) 285
Antiques 322, 323 August III 53, 61, 70, 91, 216 Berrecci, Bartolomeo 133
Antonin 233 Augustów 293 Royal Castle (Krakow) 27, 146
hotels 302 Canal 292–3 tomb of Zygmunt the Old (Krakow)
Apengheter, Johann, Cathedral of St hotels 305 149
Mary (Kołobrzeg) 263 lakelands 281 Zygmunt Chapel (Krakow) 27
Apollo and the Solar System (S. restaurants 317 Berzevicy family 172
Wyspiański) 139 Auschwitz (Oświęcim) 13, 14, 166 Beskid Culture Week 39
Appiani, Galeazzo, Krasiczyn Castle 176 Austria 22, 43, 54, 56, 57, 153, 210 Beskid Niski 18, 19
Aquarium Gdyńskie (Gdynia) 269 Austro-Prussian war 193 Beskid Sądecki 19
Archaeology Autumn in Poland 40 Beskid Śląski 166, 182
Archaeological Gala (Biskupin) 40, 226 Beskid Żywiec 167
Archaeological Museum (Warsaw) 92 B Beuys, Joseph 235
Archaeological Museum (Wrocław) Babia Góra 24 Bezprym, Duke 60
197 Bacciarelli, Marcello 71, 137 Białobrzegi 293
“Lost Wawel” exhibition (Krakow) 145 Baczyński, Krzysztof Kamil 93 Białowieża National Park 15, 25, 295
Ostrów Lednicki 226 Bähr, Andreas Adam, Church of the restaurants 317
Architecture 26–9 Holy Spirit (Toruń) 278 Białystok 20, 28, 294
16th-century 49 Balcerowicz, Leszek 59 architecture 53
GENERAL INDEX 355
City Hall Tower (Krakow) 137 Czartoryski, Adam 55, 232 Drohiczyn 295
Cleve, Joos van 222 Czechoslovakia 46, 58, 194, 210, 224 Drwęca (river) 275
Climate 38–41, 334 Czechowicz, Szymon Dukla 173
Clinton, Bill 59 Carmelite Church (Warsaw) 82 Dunajec (river) 15, 155, 172–3
Cloth Hall (Krakow) 12, 33, 113, 133, Church of St Anne (Krakow) 141 Dunajec Dam 172
135, 136, 137 St Francis of Sales (Warsaw) 83 Dunikowski, Xawery
Clothes, shopping for 322 Czerniaków (Warsaw) 99 monument to the Silesian uprising
Coach travel 348–9 Czerniejewo 226 (Góra Świętej Anny) 210
Codex Behem 48 Czersk 84, 122–3 museum (Królikarnia Palace) 99
Coffin portraits 35, 224 Czerwińsk on the Vistula 26, 45, 117, Dürunger, Hans, Astronomical Clock 244
Collegium Iuridicum (Krakow) 142 120 Duszenko, Franciszek, monument at
Collegium Maius (Krakow) 12, 45, 47, Częstochowa 21, 36–7, 50, 75, 153, Treblinka 122
141 162–3 Duszniki Zdrój 206
Collegium Nobilium (Warsaw) 52, 90 hotels 303 festivals 39
Colonel Michael (J. Hoffman) 30 restaurants 314 Dziaduski, Jan, tomb of 176
Commonwealth of Two Nations 115 Czoch Castle 187 Działyński, Jan 217, 232
Communications 342–3 Czorsztyn 172 Działyński, Tytus 217
Communism 23, 57, 58, 59, 126
fall of 22
D Dziekoński, Jósef Pius, statue of Adam
Mickiewicz (Warsaw) 82
Congress Kingdom 115 da Subiaco, Venante, Rytwiany Dzierżyński, Feliks 93
Congress of Vienna 115, 213 monastery 160 Dziwna (river) 263
Conrad, Joseph 269 da Vinci, Leonardo, Lady with an Ermine Dziwnów 263
Constantine, Prince 99 140
Constitution of 3 May 53, 70 Dąbrówka, Princess 228 E
Consulates 337 Daisy, Princess 211 Eagles’ Nests Trails 164–5
Convents Dalitz, Fryderyk Rudolf, organ (Oliwa Easter 21, 38, 176
Convent and Church of St Catherine Cathedral) 254 Ebhardt, Bodo, Czoch Castle (Sucha) 187
(Krakow) 149 Damart, Berhold, Gate of Prussian Eckstein, Franz, Piarist Church (Krakow)
Convent of the Old Believers Homage (Szczecin) 260 140
(Wojnowo) 36, 286 Dąmbski, Stanisław, Palace of the Economy 22–3, 56, 58
Convent of the Order of the Holy Bishops of Kujawy (Toruń) 278 Edward Island 217
Sacrament (Warsaw) 74 Dankwart, Karl Eggerth, Marta 32
Convent of the Order of St Clare Church of the Assumption (Nysa) 205 Elbląg 23, 285
(Dębno Podhalańskie) 171 Jasna Góra (Częstochowa) 162, 163 hotels 305
Grabarka Orthodox convent 295 Dar Pomorza (floating museum) 269 Elbląg Canal 280, 285
Premonstratensian convent Darłowo 264
Electrical appliances 337
(Imbramowice) 165 hotels 305
Elimelech, tomb of (Leżajsk) 177
Copernicus, Nicolaus 47, 48, 141, 279, Davisson, Daniel G. 241
Embassies 337
286 De Revolutionibus Orbium Celestium
Emergencies 338–9
birthplace of 276 (Copernicus) 48, 279
Emigration 54, 55
Copernicus House (Toruń) 278 Deanery (Krakow) 143
Enlightenment 30, 286
diagram of equinox (Olsztyn) 287 Dębiński, Jakub 169
Entertainment 326–31
monument to (Toruń) 277 Dębno near Brzeska 169
classical music 327, 329
Museum (Frombork) 284 Dębno Podhalańskie 26, 171
festivals, concerts and reviews 328
statue of (Warsaw) 81, 84 Decjusz, Justus Ludwik 151
Decjusz Villa (Krakow) 150–1 folk music 327
Corazzi, Antonio
Grand Theatre (Warsaw) 93, 104 Delacroix, Eugene 32 information 326
Plac Bankowy (Warsaw) 93 The Deluge (Potop) 50, 51 nightclubs 329
Staszic Palace (Warsaw) 84 Department stores 320, 323 opera and ballet 327, 329
University of Warsaw 83 Deposition of Christ (Chomranice) 47 rock, jazz and country music 328, 329
Coronations 228 Deutscher Ostmarkenverein 222–3 sport and leisure 330–1
Corpus Christi 21, 39, 121, 167 Deutscher Werkbund 203 street markets 328
Coudray, Pierre, monument to Stefan Deybel, Jan Zygmunt (Sigismund) theatres 326–7, 329
Czarnecki 294 Branicki Palace (Białystok) 294 ticket sales 326, 329
Counter-Reformation 227, 285, 289 Branicki Palace (Warsaw) 91 tournaments 328
Country music 328 Przebendowski-Radziwiłłow Palace venues 326
Cranach, Lucas (the Elder) 205 (Warsaw) 92 see also Festivals; Music; Theatre
Madonna with Christ Child and St Dialling codes 342 Erik of Pomerania 264
Catherine 159 Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz, Abbey Ernst, Max 235
Credit cards 340 Church of St Jadwiga (Legnickie Ethnographical exhibitions
in shops 320 Pole) 185 District Museum (Jelenia Góra) 190
Cricot 2 (theatre group) 143 Disabled travellers 336 Ethnographic Museum (Toruń) 279
Cricoteka (Krakow) 143 in hotels 300, 301 Ethnographical Museum (Warsaw) 95
Crime 338, 339 Długosz, Jan 159, 161 Ethnographical Museum (Wrocław)
Crocław, Around Central Wrocław Dobre Miasto 284, 286 197
202–3 Dobryczy 232 Maritime Museum (Szczecin) 261
Croy, Anna de 264 Dolabella, Tomasso, The Birth of Christ 150 Museum of Central Pomerania
Croy, Bogusław de 264 Dollinger, Michał, Potocki Palace (Słupsk) 264
Cultural Information Centre (Krakow) (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Museum of Warmia and Mazuria
326, 329 Dorazil, Anton, Abbey Church of St (Olsztyn) 287
Curie, Marie 55, 76 Mary (Krzeszów) 189 Regional Museum (Stargard
Currency 56, 320, 340–1 Dorothy of Mątowy 273 Szczeciński) 262
Customs information 334–5 Drahle 294 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park
Cycling 330 Drawskie Lakes 262–3 (Chorzowa) 211
in cities 353 Dresden 28 Etiquette 335
Czarna Hańcza (river) 292–3 Dreyer, Johann Benjamin, Uphagen Euro 2012 23, 59
Czarnecki, Stefan 294 House (Gdańsk) 249 European Academy (Krakow) 151
Czarnolas 124 Driving 350–1 European Union 23, 59
Czarny Potok 172 in cities 353 Exhibition of Living and Working Space
Czartoryska, Izabella 125, 140, 217, 232 see also Tours 203
GENERAL INDEX 359
Jesuits, 49, 76, 181, 184, 185, 195, 205, Katyń massacre 57 Koszuty 28, 217
220, 221, 232, 233, 285, 289 Kaufman, Ludwik, Pac Palace (Warsaw) Kotowski family 76
see also Churches 92 Kozłówka Palace 15, 128
Jewellery Kazimierz Dolny 15, 33, 110–11, 113, Krakow 15, 23, 132–51, 153
amber 243, 321, 323, 325 115, 125 airport 344–5
of the Pomeranian Princes 261 A Tour around Kazimierz Dolny 124–5 artistic community 31
silver 325 festivals 39 Church of St Mary 138–9
Jewish cemeteries hotels 302 entertainment 327, 328
Góra Kalwaria 123 restaurants 311 festivals 38, 39, 40, 41
Krakow 150 Kazimierz I 153 getting around 135, 352–3
Lesko 175 Kazimierz II (the Just) 60, 233 history 44, 49, 55, 59
Leżajsk 177 Kazimierz III (the Great) 26, 44, 45, 60, hotels 303
Łódź 234 125, 141, 150, 161, 164, 168, 176, 211, Main Market Square 136–7
Lublin 126 235 map: Exploring Krakow 134–5
Remuh 150 Kazimierz IV (the Jagiellonian) 46, 47, parking 350
Wrocław 203 60, 148, 161 restaurants 313–14
Jewish culture and history 21, 36 Kazimierz (Krakow) 150 Shrine of St Stanisław 51
Auschwitz-Birkenau 166 Kazimierz, Jan see Jan II Kazimierz Two Days in Krakow 12–13
Ghetto Uprising 57, 93, 97 Kędra, Władysław 235 The Wawel 144–9
Góra Kalwaria 123 Kempner, Andreas, Church of Peace Krakow Academy 45, 133, 141
Historical Museum of Krakow 150, (Jawor) 186 Krakowskie Przedmieście (Warsaw) 12,
151 Kępa Redłowska 269 80–3, 104
Jewish Culture Festival (Krakow) 39 Kepler, Johannes 184 street-by-street map 80–1
Krakow 150–1 Kętrzyn 289 Krall, Hanna 31
Majdanek State Museum (Lublin) 127 restaurants 318 Kramer, Hans, Highland Gate (Gdańsk)
Małopolska 153 Kętrzynski, Wojciech 289 248
Museum of the History of Polish Jews Kielce 156 Kramer, Johann, Green Gate (Gdańsk)
(Warsaw) 97 hotels 304 250
Nożyk Synagogue (Warsaw) 96 restaurants 315 Krasicki, Ignacy 30
persecution 37, 43, 56, 58, 97, 166 Kiepura, Jan 32, 172 Krasicki, Stanisław, Krasiczyn Castle 176
Pińczów 161 Kieślowski, Krzysztof 30, 235 Krasiczyn Castle 176
Trail of Jewish Martyrdom and Kilar, Wojciech 32, 33 Krasiński, Jan Bonawentura 122
Struggle (Warsaw) 12, 97 Kindermann, Juliusz 234 Krasiński, Jan Dobrogost 92
Treblinka 122 Kindermann, Leopold 234 Krasiński, Zygmunt 31, 55, 119
Tykocin Museum (in synagogue) 294 Kinga, Blessed 171, 173 Kraszewski, Józef Ignacy 149
Umschlagplatz Monument 96–7 Kirchberg, Matthias, Cistercian Abbey Krewo 43
see also Jewish cemeteries; (Henryków) 204 Union of 46
Synagogues Kirszenstein-Szewińska, Irena 58, 59 Krosno 173
John Paul II 59, 143 Klamerus, Władysław, Umschlagplatz Krupówki 170
birthplace 167 Monument (Warsaw) 97 Kruszwica 230, 231
Juliana of the Netherlands 95 Klein, Michael, Church of Sts Peter and Kruszyniany 36, 281, 294
Jungingen, Ulryk von 46, 288 Paul (Nysa) 205 Krutyń, restaurants 318
Jurata 265 Kletno 207 Krużlowa 47
Klimontów 159 Krynica 172
K Kłodzko Valley 206–7 Krynicki, Ryszard 31
Kaczawa (river) 186 Kluki 264 Krzeszów 189
Kaczmarski, Władysław, Medical Kmita 44 Krzycki, Andrzej 118
Society Building (Krakow) 139 Kmita, Piotr 145 Krzywcza 176
Kaczyński, Lech 59, 61 Kmita family 169 Krzyżtopór Castle (Ujazd) 28, 50–1
Kado, Michał, University of Warsaw 83 Knights Hospitallers 195, 197, 216 Książ 191
Kaiser District, Former (Poznań) 222–3 Knyszyńska Forest 295 Książ Wielki 49
Kaiserhaus (Poznań) 223 Kochanowski, Jan 30, 124, 169 Kubicki, Jakub 118
Kalisz 232 Kodeń Church 28 Belvedere Palace 99
Kalwaria Pacławicka 176 Kolbe, Maksymilian 166 University of Warsaw 83
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska 167 Kołłątaj, Hugo 53 Kućma, Wincenty
Kameleon Store (Wrocław) 196 Kołobrzeg 23, 263 Monument to 1944 Warsaw Uprising
Kamień Pomorski 263 restaurants 318 (Warsaw) 76
festivals 39 Kolonówka 272 Monument to Polish Post Office
Kamienczyk waterfall 180 Komańcza 174 attack (Gdańsk) 242
Kamieniec Ząbkowicki 204 Komeda, Krzysztof 33 Kudowa Zdrój 206
Kamsetzer, Jan Chrystian, Raczyński Komeński, Jan Amos 216 restaurants 315
Palace 75, 218 Komorowski, Bronisław 59, 61 Kujawy 275, 279
Kanał 57, 58 Komorowski, Mikołaj 167 Kulawka 34
Kantor, Tadeusz 143 Koniakowo 20 Von Kulmiz (family) 192
Kapuściński, Ryszard 31 Koniecpolskis family 82 Kulpowicz, Sławomir 33
Karkanosze National Park 180 Konrad, Duke of Mazovia 60, 274 Kuntze-Konicz, Tadeusz, The Visitation
Karkonosze Mountains 181, 188–9, Kontakt Theatre Festival 38, 276 (Warsaw) 83
190 Koprzywnica 26, 45 Kurozwęki 160
Karłowice, Peace of 49 Korczak, Janusz 97 Kurpie village (Nowogród) 293
Karłowicz, Mieczysław 32 Kórnik 215, 217 Kuzobowski, Ludwik, Grand Theatre
Karnitz, Walentyn von 245 Korpalski, Marija and Zygfryd 242 (Warsaw) 93
Karpacz 189 Kos family 254 Kwaśniewski, Aleksander 61
hotels 303 Kościerzyna 268 Kwidzyn 273
Kartuzy 268 Kościuszko, Tadeusz 52, 53, 94, 145, 234
Kashubia 268 Kossack, Wojciech, Panorama of L
Kasprowy Wierch, Mount 170 Racławice 195 Labour Day 38
Katowice 23, 181, 211 Kossak, Juliusz, Franz Josef Enters Łąck 118
hotels 304 Krakow 55 Ląd 227
restaurants 314 Kössler, Michael, Church of Saints Peter Lądek Zdrój 207
Kąty 173 and Paul (Duszniki Zdrój) 206 hotels 304
GENERAL INDEX 363
Lady with an Ermine (da Vinci) 140 Libraries (cont.) Majer, Maciej J., Potocki Chapel 228
Łagów 216 Raczyński Library (Poznań) 215, 222 Majewski, Hilary, spinning mill (Łódź)
festivals 39 Lidzbark Warmiński 286 235
Lake Bnin 217 Ligęz family 177 Makowicz, Adam 33
Lake Kórnik 217 Lighthouse, Kołobrzeg 263 Małachowski, Stanisław 53
Lakes 24 Linnaeus, Carolus 201 Malbork 10, 14, 27, 270–1, 279
Biskupinskie 226 Lipski, Jan 226 hotels 305
Drawsko 257, 262–3 Liszt, Franz 184 restaurants 318
Gardno 264 Literature 30–1 Małcużyński, Witold 32
Głębinowskie 205 Lithuania 43, 46, 48, 49, 60, 120, 281 Malczewski, Jacek 149, 218, 222
Gopło 231 Livonia 49 Polish Hamlet 87
Great Mazurian 14, 24, 290–1, 331 Liw 122 Maliński, Paweł, Grand Theatre
Iława District 281 Locci, Agostino (the Elder) (Warsaw) 93
Land of a Thousand Lakes 19, 24, 113, Krzyżtopór Castle (Ujazd) 158 Małojowice 193
280–95 Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw) 69 Małopolska, getting around 154
Łebsko 264 Locci, Agostino (the Younger) Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 21, 120,
Lednicka 226 Capuchin Church (Warsaw) 91 152–79
Lednickie 214 Wilanów (Warsaw) 102 hotels 303–4
Leśniańskie 187 Łódź 23, 234–5 restaurants 313–16
Łuknajno 291 architecture 28 Man of Iron (A. Wajda) 30
Mamry 331 festivals 38, 40 Mangoldt, Franz Josef
Morskie Oko 170 hotels 302 Aula Leopoldina (Wrocław) 194
Niegocin 291 map 234 tomb of St Jadwiga (Trzebnica) 193
Otmuchowskie 205 restaurants 311 Mankowski, Szymon 124
Śniardwy 290 Loewe, Adam, Łazienki Palace Manzel, Ludwig, Hercules Fighting the
Wigry 292 Orangery (Warsaw) 101 Centaur (Szczecin) 260
Włocławek 118 Loitz family 260 Maps
Żywiecki 166, 167 Łomża 293 Augustów Canal 292–3
Lanci, Francisco Maria, Będzin Castle 211 The Lord’s Blessing (Hahn) 240 Bieszczady Mountains Tour 174–5
Lanckorońska, Caroline 147 Lost property 339 Chełmno 274
Łańcut 154, 178–9 Louis of Hungary 45, 60 Czarna Hańcza 292–3
coyyncerts 328 Louis XV 52 Dunajec Valley 172–3
festivals 38 Łowicz 29, 120–1 Eagles’ Nests Trail 164–5
hotels 304 restaurants 312 Exploring Małopolska 154–5
Land of a Thousand Lakes 19, 24, 113, Lowlands 25 Exploring Pomerania 258–9
280–95 Lubelszczyzna 21 Exploring Silesia 182–3
Landau-Gutenteger, Gustav Lubiąż 184–5 Exploring Warmia, Mazuria and
Leopold Kinderman Villa (Łódź) 234–5 Łubieńska, Konstanta 227 Białystok Region 282–3
Piotrkowska (Łódź) 234 Lublin (city) 10, 15, 126–7 Exploring Wielkopolska 214–15
Landscape 19, 24–5 festivals 40 Gdańsk: Długu Targ and Długa 246–7
Language 335 history 57 Gdańsk: Exploring Gdańsk 238–9
phrase book 382–4 hotels 302 Great Mazurian Lakes 290–1
Lassalle, Ferdinand 203 restaurants 312 Karkonosze Mountains 188–9
The Last Judgement (Memling) 253 Union of 48, 49 Kashubia 268
Lauenstein, Laurentius, Artus Court Lublin (region) see Mazovia and the Kazimierz Dolny Tour 124–5
(Gdańsk) 247 Lublin Region Kłodzko Valley 206–7
Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 78, 100 Lublin castle 46 Krakow: Exploring Krakow 134–5
Łaziska 191 Lublin’s Underground Route 126 Krakow: Main Market Square 136–7
Le Brun, Charles, Chronos 71 Lubomierz 187 Łódź 234
Łeba 265 Lubomirska, Izabella 178 Lublin (town) centre 127
hotels 305 Lubomirski, Stanisław 151, 169, 178 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 116–
Lębork 257, 265 Lubomirski, Stanisław Herakliusz 99, 17
Łęczyca 235 100, 101 Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island
Left luggage 347 Lubomirski family 82, 177 198–9
Legnica 185 Lubostroń 29, 227 Poland at a glance 112–13
Battle of 185 Lubrański, Jan 225 Poznań 220–1
Dukes of 186 Lubrański Academy (Poznań) 225 Putting Poland on the Map 16–17
Legnica-Brzeg 193 Ludwika Maria 83 Railway Network 347
Legnickie Pole 185 Łukasiński, Walerian 77 Republic of Two Nations 43
Lehndorff family 290 Łukomski, Mikołaj A. 227 road map of Poland see inside back
Lehnert, Jan, Pauline Church on the Luminous Mountain 50 cover
Rock (Krakow) 149 Lusatian culture 226 Romanesque Architecture Tour
Lem, Stanisław 31 Lutheranism 181, 216 230–1
Lemks 174 Lutosławski, Witold 33 Świętokrzyski National Park 157
Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich 184 Łużyny 294 Szczecin 261
Leopold I 194 Lwów (Lviv) 197 Toruń 276–7
Leopold II 123 School (of sculpture) 52 Warsaw: City Centre 89
Lesko 175 Lwówek Śląski 186–7 Warsaw: Further Afield 98
Lesser Poland see Małopolska restaurants 315 Warsaw: Krakowskie Przedmieście
Leszczyńska, Maria 52 Łyna (river) 286, 287 80–1
Leszczyński, Stanisław 52, 61, 82 Łysa Góra 157 Warsaw: New Town 74–5
Leszczyński family 159 Łysica, Mount 157 Warsaw: Old and New Towns 67
Leszek the Black 60 Łysogóry range 157 Warsaw: Old Town 68–9
Leszek the White 60 Warsaw: Royal Route 79, 80–1
Leszno 216 M Warsaw: Street Finder 104–9
hotels 302 Mączyński, Franciszek Warsaw: Ulica Miodowa 90–1
Leżajsk 177 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) Warsaw: Warsaw at a glance 64–5
Libraries 140–1 Wolin Region 262–3
Gdańsk 252 Old Theatre (Krakow) 140 Wrocław 194–5
Kórnik 217 Majdanek 15, 127 Zamość 130–1
364 GENERAL INDEX
Monuments (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Stefan Batory tomb 49 Cloth Hall gallery (Krakow) 113 Maritime Museum (Szczecin) 260,
Stefan Czarnecki (Tykocin) 294 Coal Museum (Będzin) 211 261, 261
Tadeusz Kościuszko (Krakow) 145 Contemporary Art Gallery (Toruń) 279 Museum of Applied Art (Poznań) 222
Tadeusz Kościuszko (Łódź) 234 Contemporary Art Museum (Gdańsk) Museum of Architecture (Wrocław)
Those Fallen and Murdered in the 254 196
East (Warsaw) 57, 97 Copernicus House (Toruń) 278 Museum of Arms (Liw) 122
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Copernicus Museum (Frombork) 284 Museum of the Battle of Grunwald
(Warsaw) 94 Copper Museum (Legnica) 185 (Stębark) 288
Trail of Jewish Martyrdom and Cultural Institute (Żagań) 184 Museum of the Battle of Legnica
Struggle (Warsaw) 12, 97 Dar Pomorza (Gdynia) 269 (Legnickie Pole) 185
Treblinka 122 Diocesan Museum (Gdańsk) 254 Museum of Central Pomerania
Umschlagplatz Monument (Warsaw) Diocesan Museum (Pelplin) 272 (Słupsk) 264
96–7 Diocesan Museum (Płock) 118 Museum of the Chochołów
Victims of June 1956 (Poznań) 223 Diocesan Museum (Sandomierz) 159 Insurrection (Chochołów) 170
Walentyn von Karnitz (Gdańsk) 245 Diocesan Museum (Tarnów) 169 Museum of Cinematography (Łódź)
Walerian Łukasiński (Warsaw) 77 EL art gallery (Elbląg) 285 235
Władysław Jagiełło (Krakow) 139 Ethnographic Museum (Gdańsk) 254 Museum of Contemporary Art in
Zygmunt Tower (Warsaw) 70 Ethnographic Museum (Toruń) 279 Krakow (MOCAK) 151
Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw) 68, 69 Ethnographical Museum (Warsaw) Museum of the First Piasts (Ostrów
Moraczewski, Maciej (Krakow) 139 12, 95 Lednicki) 226
Morąg 286 Ethnographical Museum (Wrocław) Museum of Folk Musical Intruments
Morandi, Bernardo, Zamość 130 197 (Szydłowiec) 123
Mościcki, Ignacy 61 Feliks Nowowiejski Museum Museum of the History of Gdańsk
Mosengel, Johann, organ at Święta (Barczewo) 287 (Gdańsk) 249
Lipka shrine 289 Fisheries Museum (Hel Peninsula) 265 Museum of the History of the Market
Moser, Franciszek, Cistercian Abbey Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Warsaw) (Krakow) 137
(Mogiła) 151 84 Museum of the History of Polish Jews
Mosques, Kruszyniany 294 Gallery of Contemporary Art (Radom) (Warsaw) 97
Motława (river) 238, 243, 246, 250, 251, 123 Museum of Jewish History (Krakow)
252 Gallery of European Art (Poznań) 222 150
Mountain lodges 300 Gallery of Polish Art (Poznań) 222 Museum of Mazovia (Płock) 118
Mountains 24 Gallery of Polish Painting (Krakow) Museum of the Mazovian Nobility
Mozart Festival (Warsaw) 39 137 (Ciechanów) 119
Mrągowo, festivals 39 Geology and Mineralogy Museums Museum of Modern Art (Łódź) 235,
Mrożek, Sławomir 31 (Wrocław) 202 235
Munch, Edvard 31 Gniezno Archdiocesan Museum 229 Museum of the Origins of the Polish
Muniak, Janusz 33 Grodno Castle Museum (Zagórze State (Gniezno) 229
Müntzer, Gerhard, Pauline Church on Śląskie) 192 Museum of the Paper Industry
the Rock (Krakow) 149 Grudziądz Museum 273 (Duszniki Zdrój) 206
Museums and galleries Henryk Sienkiewicz Museum Museum of Period Interiors (Dębno
opening hours and prices 335 (Oblęgorek) 156 near Brzeska) 169
600th Anniversary Museum Historical Museum (Krakow) 137 Museum of Romanticism
(Częstochowa) 162 Holy Father John Paul II (Wadowice) (Opinogóra) 119
Adam Mickiewicz Museum (Żerków) 167 Museum of Silesia (Katowice) 211
227 Independence Museum (Warsaw) 92 Museum of the Silesian Piasts (Brzeg)
Amber Museum (Gdańsk) 246, 248 industrial skansen (Bóbrka) 173 193
Archaeological and Historical Jagellonian University Museum Museum of Silesian Trade (Świdnica)
Museum (Głogów) 184 (Krakow) 141 191
Archaeological Museum (Warsaw) 92 Jan Kochanowski (Czarnolas) 124 Museum of Steam Locomotives
Archaeological Museum (Wrocław) 197 Jewish Historical Institute (Warsaw) (Jaworzyna) 191
Archdiocesan (Krakow) 143 96 Museum of the Uprising (Góra
Archdiocesan (Katowice) 211 Johann Gottfried von Herder (Morąg) Świętej Anny) 210
Archdiocesan (Ostrów Tumski) 201 286 Museum of Warmia and Mazuria
Archdiocesan (Poznań) 225 John Paul II Collection (Warsaw) 93 (Olsztyn) 287
Art Gallery ZPAP (Warsaw) 321 Józef Mehoffer House Museum Museum of Warsaw 69, 73
Benedictine abbey gallery (Krakow) 141 Museum of Western Kashubia
(Grudziądz) 273 Kaiserhaus Cultural Centre (Poznań) (Bytów) 265
Białowieża Forest Museum 295 223 Muzeum Miasta Rzeszów 177
Błyskawica (Gdynia) 269 Kargul and Pawlak Museum National Gallery of Contemporary Art
Budownictwa Ludowego Open Air (Lubomierz) 187 (Zachęta) 94
Museum 287 Karkanosze National Park Ecological National Maritime Museum (Gdańsk)
Bunker of Arts (Krakow) 141 Education Centre (Sobieszów) 190 13, 243, 251
Castle Gallery (Reszel) 288 Karol Szymanowski Museum (Villa National Museum (Gdańsk) 249, 253
Castle Museum (Bolków) 190 Atma, Zakopane) 170 National Museum (Kielce) 156
Castle Museum (Gniew) 273 Kashubian Museum (Kartuzy) 268 National Museum (Krakow) 15, 136,
Castle Museum (Golub-Dobrzyń) 275 Kielce Rural Museum 156 141
Castle Museum (Gołuchów) 232 Kozłówka Palace 128 National Museum (Poznań) 222
Castle Museum (Kórnik) 217 Leopold Kinderman Villa gallery National Museum (Szczecin) 260, 261
Castle Museum (Książ) 191 (Łódź) 235 National Museum (Warsaw) 12, 65,
Castle Museum (Kwidzyn) 273 Local History Museum (Pisz) 290 86–7, 94
Castle Museum (Szczecin) 260, 261 Łódź Historical Museum 235 National Museum (Wrocław) 195,
Cathedral Museum (Krakow) 145 “Lost Wawel” Exhibition (Krakow) 145 196, 197
Centre for Contemporary Art Łowicz Regional Museum 121 Natural History Museum (Cieplice)
(Warsaw) 98 Lubiąż monastery (Silesian sculpture) 188, 190
Centre for Polish Sculpture (Orońsk) 184 Natural History Museum (Wrocław)
123 Lublin Rural Musuem 127 202
Chełmno Museum 275 Lublin’s Underground Route 126 Nikifor Museum (Krynica) 172
Chopin Museum (Żelazowa Wola) Majdanek State Museum (Lublin) 15, Oświęcim-Brzezinka Museum
120 127 (Auschwitz) 13, 14, 166
366 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Music festivals (cont.) Nobel Prize (cont.)
Palace Museum (Pszczyna) 211 International Organ festival (Kamień Marie Curie (physics) 55
Panorama of Racławice (Wrocław) 14, Pomorski) 39 Max Born (physics) 194
195 International Song Festival (Sopot) 39 Wisława Szymborska (literature) 30, 31
Pawiak Prison (Warsaw) 96 Jazz Jamboree (Warsaw) 40 Władysław Reymont (literature) 30,
Polish Army Museum (Zamość) 130 Jazz on the Oder (Wrocław) 38 31, 81, 234
Polish Aviation Museum (Krakow) 151 Orthodox Church Music Festival Nobility 34–5
Polish Military Museum (Warsaw) 85 (Krakow) 41 Northern War 50, 52, 82
Portrait Gallery (Oliwa Cathedral) 255 Piknik Country (Mrągowo) 39 Norwid, Cyprian Kamil 31, 55
Post Office Museum (Gdańsk) 242 Singing Poetry Festival (Olsztyn November Insurrection 54, 55, 125, 227
Poster Museum (Warsaw) 102 Castle) 39 Nowęcin 265
Pranie Forester’s House 294 Warsaw Autumn (contemporary Nowogród 293
Princes Czartoryski Museum (Krakow) music) 40 Nowowiejski, Feliks 287
140 Wratislavia Cantans (Wrocław) 40 Nowy Sącz 171
Raczyński Palace art gallery (Rogalin) Wrocław International Guitar Festival restaurants 315
218 40 Nowy Wiśnicz 169
Radom Rural Museum 123 Złota Tarka Traditional Jazz Festival Nożyk, Zelfan and Ryfka 96
Regional Museum (Białystok) 294 (Iława) 39 Nysa 205
Regional Museum (Biecz) 172 Mysłakowice 189
Regional Museum (Bydgoszcz) 275 Myszkowski, Zygmunt 161 O
Regional Museum (Jelenia Góra) 190 Myszkowski family 137, 161 Obbergen, Anton van
Regional Museum (Łęczyca) 235 Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245
Regional Museum (Leszno) 216 N Old Town Hall (Gdańsk) 241
Regional Museum (Lidzbark Nahorny, Włodzimierz 33 Prison Tower (Gdańsk) 248
Warmiński) 286 Nałęczów 116, 125 Toruń Town Hall 277
Regional Museum (Łomża) 293 restaurants 312 Wisłoujście Fortress (Gdańsk) 255
Regional Museum (Opole) 210 Namysłowski, Zbigniew 33 Oblęgorek 156
Regional Museum (Pułtusk) 119 Napoleon 184, 263 Odra (river) 184, 193, 198, 200, 201, 202,
Regional Museum (Sandomierz) 159 Narutowicz, Gabriel 56, 61, 72, 94 210, 260
Regional Museum (Stargard National dress 35 Odrowąż, Iwo 151
Szczeciński) 262 National Ossoliński Institute 197 Odrzykoń 173
Regional Museum (Sulejów) 233 National Parks 24 Ogiński, Michał K. 121
Regional Museum (Szydłow) 160 Białowieża Forest 15, 295 Ogrodzieniec 26, 165
Regional Museum (Toruń) 277 Biebrza 293 Ojców, restaurants 315
Regional Musuem (Piotrków Bieszczady 174 Ojców National Park 164, 165
Trybunalski) 233 Karkanosze 180 Old Believers 286
Rynek Underground (Krakow) 137 Karkonosze Mountains 188 Old Rectory (Zamość) 131
salt mine museum (Wieliczka) 168 Lake Wigry 292 Oleśnica 193
Schindler’s Factory (Krakow) 151 Ojców 164, 165 Oleśnicki, Zbigniew 161, 171, 228
Skansen (Janowiec) 124 Polesian 129 Oleśnicki family 157
Skansen (Kluki) 264–5 Słowiński 264–5 Oliwa 51
Skansen (Lake Lednicky) 214 Świętokrzyski 157 Olkusz 165
Skansen (Nowogród) 293 Szwajcaria Kaszubska 257, 259, 268 Olsztyn 164, 287
Skansen (Wdzydze Kiszewskie) 29, Tatra 10, 15, 170–1, 330 festivals 39
268 Wolin 262 hotels 305
Skansens 28, 29 National Universal Exhibition (Poznań) restaurants 318
Ślęża Museum 192 56 Olympics 58
Spisz Region Museum (Czorsztyn NATO 23, 59 Opaliński, Łukasz 177
Castle) 172 Naumann, Jan Krzysztof, Saxon Opatów 48, 158
Środa Land Museum (Koszuty) 217 Gardens (Warsaw) 94 Opatów Lament 48–9, 158
Stefan Żeromski Museum (Nałęczów) Nazi SS, see also Germany, occupation Opening times, museums 335
125 of Poland Opera House (Posnań) 223
Sulphur Basin Museum (Baranów Neo-Classicism 29 Opera Leśna (“Opera in the Woods”)
Sandomierski) 159 Neunhertz, Georg Wilhel (Sopot) 269
Szczecin History Museum 261 Abbey Church of St Mary (Krzeszów) Opinogóra 119
Szołaysky House (Krakow) 12, 143 189 Opole (region) 181
Town Museum (Nysa) 205 Ład church 227 Opole (town) 20, 210
Treblinka Museum of Struggle and Rydzyna palace 216 festivals 39
Martydom 122 Żagań monastery 184 hotels 304
Tykocin Museum 294 New Sanatorium (Krynica) 172 Orańska, Marianna 204
Ukranian Art Gallery (Krakow) 143 Newspapers and magazines 343 Ordonówna, Hanka 57
Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park Nidzica 288 Orłowski, Jósef, Łazienki Palace
(Chorzów) 211 Nieborów 121 Orangery (Warsaw) 101
Warsaw Rising Museum 12, 99 Niedzica 172 Orońsko 123
Wawel Cathedral Museum (Krakow) Niemen (river) 292 Orthodox Christians 20, 21, 36, 153, 295
144 Niepołomice 168, 295 Orzelska, Anna 121
Xawery Dunikowski Museum Nietupy 294 Orzeszkowa, Eliza 31
(Warsaw) 99 Niewiadomski, Eligiusz 94 Osowiec 293
Zamoyski Palace (Kozłówka) 128 Nightclubs 329 Osowiec Tunnels 192
Music 32–3, 327–8 Nihil Novi 48 Ossolin 158
organ recitals (Święta Lipka) 289 Nikifor 172 Ossolineum (Wrocław) 197
Music festivals 38–41, 328 Nitrowski, Daniel, cathedral organ Ossoliński family 51
All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival (Krakow) (Frombork) 284 Ossoliński, Jósef Maksimilian 197
40 Niuron, Barnardo, castle of the dukes of Ossoliński, Krzysztof 158
Chopin Festival (Duszniki Zdrój) 39 Oleśnica 193 Ostra Skała 173
Festival of Folk Bands and Singers Nobel Prize Ostróda, restaurants 319
(Kazimierz Dolny) 39 Czesläw Miłosz (literature) 30, 31 Ostrów Lednicki 226
Festival of Polish Piano Music (Słupsk) Gerhard Hauptmann (literature) 188 Ostrów Tumski (Wrocław) 198–201
40 Henryk Sienkiewicz (literature) 30, 31, exploring 200–1
Głogów Jazz Meeting (Głogów) 40 54, 55, 156 street-by-street map 198–9
GENERAL INDEX 367
Polish Brethren 156, 160, 161 Public transport 352–3 Reymont, Władysław 30, 31, 234
Polish Hamlet (Malczewski) 87 Puck 39 heart of 81, 83
Polish Legions 54 Puck Bay 265 Ribera, José de 211
Polish Post Office (Gdańsk) 242 Puławy 15, 125, 140 Riedl, Johann, Cathedral of Saints
Polish United Workers’ Party 58 restaurants 312 Stanisław and Wenceslas (Świdnica)
Politics 20, 22–3 Pułtusk 49, 119 191
Polonian tribe 213 Ringerin, Piotr, Golden Gate (Gdańsk) 248
Połonina Wetlińska 174 Q Roads 350
Pomerania 19, 27, 44, 237, 256–79 Quadro, Giovanni Battista di, Poznań Roadside assistance 351
getting around 258 town hall 221 Rock climbing 330
hotels 305 Rock music 328
map 258–9 R Rodondo, Giacomo 70
restaurants 317–19 Rąbka 265 Rogalin 218–19
Poncino, Tomasso Rąbka Zdrój, restaurants 315 Romanesque architecture 26
Bishops’ Palace (Kielce) 156 Racławice, Battle of 195 tour 230–1
Church of Saints Mary Magdalene Raczyński, Atanazy 222 Rotenstein, Konrad Zöllner von, Palace
and Stanisław (Poznań) 221 Raczyński, Edward 222 of the Grand Master (Malbork) 270
Poniatowski, Józef 53, 55, 101 Raczyński, Filip 219 Rottmayr, Johann Michael, Church of
statue 82 Raczyński, Kazimierz 75, 218 the Holy Name of Jesus (Wrocław)
Poniatowski, Michał 91 Raczyński library (Poznań) 215, 222 195
Poniatowski, Stanisław August 29, 30, Raczyński family 219 Round Table Talks 82
42, 52, 53, 60, 61, 71, 94, 100, 101, Radom 58, 123 Równia 174
144, 248 Raduna Canal (Gdańsk) 13, 240–2 Rowokół 264
coronation 72 street-by-street map 240–1 Royal Castle (Warsaw) 12, 28, 29, 51, 68,
Popiel, King 230, 231 Radziejowski, Michał S. 121 70–1
Popiełuszko, Father Jerzy 59, 98, 242 Radziwiłł, Antoni 233 Royal Chapel (Gdańsk) 51, 245
Pöppelmann, Karol Fryderyk, summer Radziwiłł, Michał 82 Royal Palace (Wrocław) 197
theatre (Saxon Gardens, Warsaw) Radziwiłł, Michał Kazimierz 77 Royal Prussia 47, 257
94 Radziwiłł, Wanda 233 Royal Route (Krakow) 140
Pöppelmann, Mateus Daniel, Saxon Radziwiłł family 82, 92, 121 Royal Route (Warsaw) 78–87
Gardens (Warsaw) 94 Radziwiłłowa, Helena 121 Royal Way (Gdańsk) 246, 248
Population 16, 20–1 Radziwiłłówna, Barbara 168 Różewicz, Tadeusz 31
Poraj family 160 Radzyń Podlaski 129 Różny 258
Posada Rybotycka 176 Rafting, Dunajec Raft Ride 172–3 Roztocze 116
Postal services 343 Rainfall 40 Rubinstein, Artur 32, 235
Pothoff, Herman 83 The Raising of Lazarus (Fabritius) 87 Rubinstein, Helena 150
Potocki, Eustachy 129 Raków 160 Rudniev, Lev, Palace of Culture and
Potocki, Stanisław Kostka, Church of St Rapaport, Natan, monument to the Science (Warsaw) 95
Anne (Warsaw) 81 Heroes of the Ghetto (Warsaw) 97 Rulers of Poland 60–1
Potocki, Teodor 228 Rastembork 289 Rupniewski, Stanisław 160, 161
Potocki family 178 Rauch, Chrystian, Golden Chapel Russia 22, 50, 153, 232, 275, 285
Pottery tombs (Poznań Cathedral) 225 Congress of Vienna 213
at Chmielno 268 Record shops 320 and the Partitions 43, 52, 53, 54
Kashubian ceramics 321 Red Army 56, 57, 126, 233 and the Perpetual Peace 51
shopping for 322, 323 Red Swamp 293 and Polish independence 56
Poznań 14, 23, 27, 213, 215, 220–5 Redler, Christian, Potocki Palace POWs 127
Cathedral 224–5 (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Russo-Polish War 53
entertainment 327, 328 Redler, J.C. 294 and the Warsaw Uprising 57
festivals 39, 40 Reformation 49, 252 see also USSR
hotels 303 Regnier of Amsterdam, Green Gate Ruthenia 45, 120, 176
International Trade Fair 223 (Gdańsk) 250 Rutkowska, Aurora 128
map 200–1 Rej, Mikołaj 30 Rydzyna 216
parking 351 Religion 20–1, 36–7 Rygol 292
restaurants 312 Rembrandt 70, 140 Rymanów 173
Poznański, Izrael Kalmanowicz 235 Remuh Cemetery and Synagogue Ryn 290
Prądnik Valley 165 (Krakow) 150 restaurants 319
Presidential residence 80, 82, 99 Renaissance 48 Rynek Underground (Krakow) 12,
Presiner, Zbigniew 33 architecturee 27 137
Proserpine Fountain (Poznań) 221 literature 30 Rysy 24
Prus, Bolesław 31 Zamość 130 Rytwiany 160
Prussia 22, 27, 43, 48, 54, 56, 194, 205, Rennen, Peter van der 148 Rzeszów 177
210, 213, 222–3, 229, 232, 237, 260, Shrine of St Adalbert 229
265, 273, 275, 285 Republic of Two Nations 43, 48–9, 50, S
Ducal Prussia 281, 286, 289 52, 54 Säbisch, Albrecht von
Royal Prussia 47, 257 Responsible tourism 337 Church of Peace (Jawor) 186
Prussian Woman (Pisz) 290 Restaurants 306–19 Church of Peace (Świdnica) 191
Prusz, Hanusz, Church of St Mary Flavours of Poland 308–9 Säbisch, Valentin von, Camaldolite
(Ostrów Tumski, Poznań) 225 Gdańsk 317 Monastery (Bielany) 151
Pryliński, Tomasz 137, 167 Krakow 313–14 Sachs, Clara 203
Prządki (The Spinners) 173 Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 314–16 Sądecky Beskidy Mountains 153
Przemyśl 176 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 311–13 Safety 338–9
hotels 304 meals 306 Sailing 175, 331
restaurants 315 Pomerania 317 St Adalbert (Wojciech) 44, 223, 228, 229
Przemysław II 60, 222 Silesia 314–16 St George’s Court (Gdańsk) 246, 248–9
Przybyszewski, Stanisław 31 vegetarian 307 St Jadwiga 193, 198
Pszczyna 210–11 Warmia, Mazuria and Białystok St John Nepomuk 85
restaurants 315 Region 317 St Ładysław of Gielniów 81
Ptolemy 232 Warsaw 310–11 St Maksymilian Kolbe 166
Public holidays 41, 320 Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) 311–13 St Stanisław 44–5, 51, 145, 148, 149
Public toilets 335 Reszel 288 St Wojciech see St Adalbert
GENERAL INDEX 369
Strakowski, Jan Synagogues (cont.) Teutonic Knights 27, 46–9, 120, 126,
Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245 Pińczów 161 139, 233, 237, 240, 242, 255, 257,
Wisłoujście Fortress (Gdańsk) 255 Przemyśl 176 272–6, 281, 285, 286, 288, 289
Strange Garden (Mehoffer) 65 Szydłow 160 Bytów 265
Street food 307 Tykocin 294 Gniew 273
Streets Warsaw (Nożyk) 96 Golub-Dobrzyń 275
Aleje Ujazdowskie (Warsaw) 12, 85 Szafraniec, Piotr and Krzysztof 164 Malbork 270–1
Długi Targ (Gdańsk) 246–7, 250 Szarzyński, Stanisław S. 32 Nidzica 288
Krakowskie Przedmieście (Warsaw) Szczawnica 173 Ryn 290
80–3, 320 Szczawno Zdrój, festivals 39 Toruń 276
Nowy Świat (Warsaw) 12, 84, 320 Szczecin 23, 257, 260–1 Toruń Ethnographical Museum 279
Royal Route (Krakow) 140 hotels 305 Theatre 326–7, 329
Royal Route (Warsaw) 78–87 map 261 Borderlands Theatre Festival (Cieszyn)
Royal Way (Gdańsk) 246 restaurants 319 39
Ulica Długa (Gdańsk) 246–7, 249 Szczepkowski, Jan 85 Centre for Culture and Art (Antonin)
Ulica Floriańska (Krakow) 12, 140 Szczodrowska, Elżbieta 241 233
Ulica Foksal (Warsaw) 84 Szczurkowo 282 Cricoteka (Krakow) 143
Ulica Freta (Warsaw) 74, 76 Szczypiorski, Andrzej 31 Festival of Theatre Schools (Łódź) 38
Ulica Grodzka (Krakow) 13, 142 Szczyrk, hotels 304 festivals 328
Ulica Kanonicza (Krakow) 143 Szklarka Waterfall 188 Grand Theatre (Warsaw) 93, 104
Ulica Mariacka (Gdańsk) 243 Szklarska Poręba 188 International Festival of Alternative
Ulica Mazowiecka (Warsaw) 95 hotels 304 Theatre (Krakow) 40
Ulica Miodowa (Warsaw) 90–2 Szmalenberg, Hanna, Umschlagplatz International Street Theatre Festival
Ulica Mostowa (Warsaw) 74 Monument (Warsaw) 97 (Jelenia Góra) 39
Ulica Retoryka (Krakow) 142 Szołaysky House (Krakow) 12, 143 Konfrontacje Theatre Festival (Lublin)
Ulica Wały Chrobrego (Szczecin) 260 Sztynort 290 40
Strobel, Bartholomäus, Frombork Szulc, Daniel, St Luis Gonzaga (Warsaw) Łańcut Palace 179
Cathedral 284 83 Malta - International Theatre Festival
Struś, Jan 225 Szwajcaria Kaszubska National Park (Poznań) 39
Stryjeński, Tadeusz, Old Theatre 257, 259, 268 Old Theatre (Krakow) 140
(Krakow) 140 Szwajcer, Walenty 226 Passion Plays (Kalwaria Pacławicka)
Strynkiewicz, Franciszek, monument at Szydłów 160 176
Treblinka 122 Szydłowiec 123 Passion Plays (Kalwaria
Strzelecki, Paweł Edmund 223 Szydłowiecki, Anna 158 Zebrzydowska) 167
Strzelno 230 Szydłowiecki, Krzysztof 48–9, 158 Theatre on the Island, Łazienki Palace
Stübben, Joseph, Kaiser District Szyller, Stefan 118 (Warsaw) 101
(Poznań) 223 Stations of the Cross (Częstochowa) Wilam Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 276
Student travel 336 162 Thirteen Years’ War 46
Stüler, Friedrich August 273 University of Warsaw 83 Thirty Years’ War 37, 181, 186, 191, 206,
Styk, Jan, Panorama of Racławice 195 Zachęta (Warsaw) 94 213, 216, 257
Subiaco, Venante da see da Subiaco, Szymanowski, Karol 32, 83 Thomatis, Karol de Valery 99
Venante Villa Atma 170 Thorvaldsen, Bertel 55, 72, 82
Sucha 187 Szymanowski, Wacław, Monument to Tichy, Karol 87
Sucha Beskidzka, restaurants 315 Chopin (Warsaw) 100 Tickets
Sucharski, Henryk 255 Szymborska, Wisława 30, 31 air travel 345
Sudeten Mountains 24, 181, 188–9, Szyndzielnia 166 public transport 352
206–7 Szyślak, Wiesław 241 trains 346
Sulejów 26, 45, 233 Szyszko-Bohusz, Adolf 163 Tiecek, Friedrich, monument to
Sułkowski, Jósef A. 216 Nicolaus Copernicus (Toruń) 277
Summer in Poland 39 T Time zone 337
Sunshine 39 Table Mountains 206 Tipping, in restaurants 307
Supraśl 281 Von Talkenberg (family) 187 Toilets 335
Suvorov, Marshal 94 Talleyrand-Périgord, Dorothea 184 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Suwałki lakelands 281, 292 Talowski, Teodor, Ulica Retoryka (Warsaw) 94
restaurants 319 (Krakow) 142 Tomicki, Andrzej tomb of (Krakow) 143
Suwalszczyzna forests 283 Tapestries, Wawel Castle collection Tomicki, Piotr 49, 142
Suzin, Marek 97 49 Topienie Marzanny 38
Svenichen, Alexander 252 Tarkovsky, Andrei 31 Torelli, Stefan, painting of the Virgin,
Swach, Adam, Franciscan Church Tarłow 50 Frombork Cathedral High Altar 284
(Poznań) 222 Tarnów 169 Toruń 10, 11, 14, 27, 276–9, 325
Sweden 50, 158, 257, 260, 264, 294 hotels 304 festivals 38, 39
Świdnica 183, 191 restaurants 315 hotels 305
restaurants 315 Tarnowski, Jan 49, 169 map 276–7
Świdnica-Jawor 189, 191 Tarnowski family 169 restaurants 319
Świerzno 263 Tartars 20, 50, 159, 173, 185, 288, 294 Toruń, 2nd Treaty of 46
Święta Lipka 282, 289 Tartars’ Stone 288 Toruń, Statute of 48
Świętokrzyski National Park 157 Tatra Mountains 10, 19, 24, 112, 153, Tourist information 335, 337
Świętopekk II 249 170–1, 330, 331 Tours
Świnoujście 262 music 32, 33 A Tour around Kazimierz Dolny
ferries 345 Tatra National Park 10, 15, 170–1 124–5
festivals 39 Tausch, Krzysztof, Church of the Holy Around Wolin 262–3
Świny 190, 200 Name of Jesus (Wrocław) 195 Bieszczady Mountains Tour 174–5
Sylvester II, Pope 229 Taxis 353 Canoeing on the Czarna Hańcza and
Synagogues 37 to/from airports 344–5 Augustów Canal 292–3
Chełm 129 Tęczyński family 160 Dunajec Raft Ride 15, 172–3
Kazimierz Dolny 125 Telephones 342 Eagles’ Nests Trails 164–5
Krakow (Old Synagogue) 150 Television 343 Foothills of the Karkonosze
Krakow (Remuh) 150 Temperatures 41 Mountains 188–9
Lesko 175 Tencalla, Constantino, Zygmunt’s Kashubia 268
Nowy Sącz 171 Column (Warsaw) 69 Kłodzko Valley 206–7
GENERAL INDEX 371
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kinderlsley would like to thank the following people and Maciej Musiał, Małgorzata Omilanowska, Henryk Pieczul,
whose contributions and assistance have made the preparation Tomasz Prażmowski, Ireneusz Radkiewicz, Wojciech Richter,
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Phrase Book
No, thank you Nie, dziękuję n-yej jENkoo-yeh
SUMMARY OF Please Proszę prosheh
PRONUNCIATION IN POLISH I don’t Nie rozumiem n-yeh rozoom-yem
understand
ą a nasal “awn” as in “sawn” or “an” as in
Do you speak Czy mówi pan chi moovee pan
the French “Anjou” but barely sounded
English? po angielsku? po ang-yelskoo
c “ts” as in “bats”
(to a man)
ć, cz “ch” as in “challenge”
Do you speak Czy mówi pani chi moovee panee
ch “ch” as in Scottish “loch”
English? po angielsku? po ang-yelskoo
dz “j” as in “jeans” when followed by i or e (to a woman)
but otherwise “dz” as in “adze” Please speak Proszę mówić proseh mooveech
dź “j” as in “jeans” more slowly wolniej voln-yay
dż “d” as in “dog” followed by “s” as in Please write it Proszę mi to prosheh mee to
“leisure” down for me napisać napeesach
ę similar to “en” in “end” only nasal and My name is… Nazywam się… nazivam sheh
barely sounded, but if at the end of the
word pronounced “e” as in “bed” Useful Words and Phrases
h “ch” as in Scottish “loch” Pleased to meet Bardzo mi miło bardzo mee meewo
i “ee” as in “teeth” you (to a man) pana poznać pana poznach
j “y” as in yes Pleased to meet Bardzo mi miło bardzo mee meewo
ł “w” as in “window” you (to a woman) panią poznać pan-yAWN poznach
ń similar to the “ni” in “companion” Good morning Dzień dobry jen-yuh dobri
ó “oo” as in “soot” Good afternoon Dzień dobry jen-yuh dobri
rz similar to the “s” in “leisure” or, when it Good evening Dobry wieczór dobri v-yechoor
follows p, t or k, “sh” as in “shut” Good night Dobranoc dobranots
Shopping
Emergencies Do you have…? Czy ma pan…? che ma pan
Help! Pomocy! pomotsi (to a man)
Call a Zawołać zawowach Do you have…? Czy ma pani…? che ma panee
doctor! doktora! doctora (to a woman)
Call an Zadzwonić zadzvoneech How much is this? Ile to kosztuje? eeleh to koshtoo-yeh
ambulance! po pogotowie! po pogotovee Where is the… Gdzie jest gjeh yest
Police! Policja! poleetsya department? dział z…? jawuh z
Call the fire Zadzwonić po zadzvoneech po Do you take Czy przyjmuje pan chi pshi-yuhmoo-yeh
brigade! straż pożarną! stras posarnAWN credit cards? karty kredytowe? pan karti kreditoveh
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest nlbleezhsha (to a man)
nearest phone? budka najbliższa Do you take Czy przyjmuje chi pshi-yuhmoo-yeh
telefoniczna? boodka credit cards? pani karty panee karti
telefoneechna (to a woman) kredytowe? kreditoveh
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest bakery piekarnia p-yekarn-ya
hospital? szpital? shpeetal bookshop księgarnia kshENgarn-ya
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest posterunek chemist apteka apteka
police station? policji? posterunek department store dom towarowy dom tovarovi
politsyee exchange office kantor walutowy kantor valootovi
travel agent biuro podróży b-yooro podroozhi
Communication Essentials post office poczta, urząd pochta, ooZHAWNd
Yes Tak tak pocztowy pochtovi
No Nie n-yeh postcard pocztówka pochtoovka
Thank you Dziękuję jENkoo-yeh stamp znaczek znachek
PHRASE BOOK 375
How much is a Ile kosztuje eeleh koshtoo-yeh Can we have the Proszę prosheh
postcard to…? pocztówka do…? pochtoovka do bill, please? rachunek? raHoonek
airmail poczta lotnicza pochta lotneecha Where is the toilet? Gdzie jest toaleta? gjeh yest to-aleta
Have you any Czy ma pan chi ma pan baranina mutton, lamb
barszcz czerwony beetroot soup
vacancies? wolne pokoje? volneh poko-yeh
bażant pheasant
(to a man)
befsztyk beef steak
Have you any Czy ma pani chi ma panee
bigos hunter’s stew (sweet and sour cabbage
vacancies? wolne pokoje? volneh poko-yeh
with a variety of meats and seasonings)
(to a woman)
bukiet z jarzyn a variety of raw and pickled vegetables
What is the charge Ile kosztuje eeleh koshtoo-yeh
ciasto cake, pastry
per night? za dobę? za dobeh
cielęcina veal
I’d like Poproszę poprosheh
cukier sugar
a single room. pokój pokoo-yuh
cukierek sweet, confectionery
jednoosobowy yedno-osobovi
dania mięsne meat dishes
I’d like a double Poproszę poprosheh
dania rybne fish dishes
room. pokój pokoo-yuh
dania z drobiu poultry dishes
dwuosobowy dvoo-osobovi
deser dessert
I’d like a twin Poproszę poprosheh
flaki tripe
room. pokój z dwoma pokoo-yuh z dvoma
grzybki marinated
łóżkami. woozhkamee
marynowane mushrooms
I’d like a room Poproszę poprosheh herbata tea
with a bathroom. pokój pokoo-yuh jarzyny vegetables
z łazienką. z wazhenkAWN kabanos dry, smoked pork sausage
bathroom łazienka wazhenka kaczka duck
bed łóżko woozhko kapusta cabbage
bill rachunek raHoonek kartofle potatoes
breakfast śniadanie shn-yadan-yeh kasza gryczana buckwheat
dinner kolacja kolats-ya kaszanka black pudding
double room pokój pokoo-yuh kawa coffee
dwuosobowy dvoo-osobovi kiełbasa sausage
full board pełne pewuhneh klopsiki minced meat balls
utrzymanie ootzhiman-yeh lody ice cream
guesthouse zajazd za-yazd łosoś salmon
half board dwa posiłki dva posheewuhkee łosoś wędzony smoked salmon
dziennie jen-yeh makowiec poppy seed cake
key klucz klooch naleśniki pancakes
restaurant restauracja restawrats-ya piernik spiced honeycake
shower prysznic prishneets pierogi ravioli-like dumplings
single room pokój pokoo-yuh piwo beer
jednoosobowy yedno-osobovi prawdziwki ceps (type of mushroom)
toilet toaleta to-aleta przystawki entrées
pstrąg trout
rolmopsy rollmop herrings
Eating Out
sałatka salad
A table for one, Stolik dla jednej. stoleek dla yednay sałatka owocowa fruit salad
please. osoby proszę osobi prosheh sok juice
A table for two, Stolik dla dwóch stoleek dla dvooh sok jabłkowy apple juice
please. osób proszę. osoob prosheh sok owocowy fruit juice
Can I see Mogę prosić mogeh prosheech sól salt
the menu? jadłospis? yadwospees śledź herring
Can I see the Mogę prosić mogeh prosheech tort cake, gâteau
wine list? kartę win? karteh veen wieprzowina pork
I’d like… Proszę prosheh wino wine
376 PHRASE BOOK