Poland (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
POLAND
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
POLAND
Main Contributors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer
Małgorzata Omilanowska
Jerzy S. Majewski
Contents
Produced By Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw
Contributors Małgorzata Omilanowska, Jerzy S. Majewski

Illustrators Andrzej Wielgosz, Bohdan Wróblewski,
Piotr Zubrzycki, Paweł Mistewicz
Photographers Krzysztof Chojnacki; Wojciech Czerniewicz,
Stanisława Jabłońska, Piotr Jamski, Euzebiusz Niemiec
Cartographers Ewa i Jan Pachniewiczowie,
Maria Wojciechowska, Dariusz Osuch (D. Osuch i spółka)
Editor Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer

Dtp Designers Paweł Kamiński, Paweł Pasternak
Proofreader Bożena Leszkowicz
Technical Editor Anna Kożurno-Królikowska
Designer Ewa Roguska i zespół The twin-towered basilica in Czerwińsk
Cover Design Paweł Kamiński on the Vistula (see p120)
Translators Mark Cole, Marian Dragon, Teresa Levitt, Joanna Pillans, Vera Rich
Edited and typeset by Book Creation Services Ltd, London Introducing

Printed in Malaysia Poland
First American Edition, 2001
How to Use this Guide 6
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Discovering Poland 10

345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 Putting Poland
Copyright © 2001, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
on the Map 16
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, A Portrait of Poland 18
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written Poland Through
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
the Year 38
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of Poland 42
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-46542-822-6 Warsaw
Throughout this book, floors are numbered in accordance with local Polish usage;
ie. the “first” floor is the floor above ground level.
Area By Area
Warsaw at a Glance 64
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Traditional windmills in a typical
Front cover main image: Wilanów Palace, on the outskirts of Warsaw Wielkopolska landscape
Solina Lake in the Bieszczady Mountains
The Old and
New Towns 66
The Royal
Route 78
The City Centre 88
Further
Afield 98
Warsaw Street Finder

Pastel-coloured arcaded houses along the Market Square in Jelenia Góra (see p190)
104–109
Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide

Where to Practical
Stay 298 Information 334
Where to Travel Information 344

Eat and Drink 306
Index 354
Shopping in
Poland 320 Phrase Book 374
Entertainment in Road Map

Poland 326 of Poland
The magnificent White Staircase in
Kozłówka Palace (see p128)
Poland Region
by Region
Poland at a Glance 112
Mazovia and
the Lublin Region 114
Krakow 132
Małopolska
(Lesser Poland) 152
Silesia 180
Wielkopolska
(Greater Poland) 212
Gdańsk 236
Pomerania 256
Warmia, Mazuria and Cathedral of St John,

Białystok Region 280 in Warsaw (see p72)
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The detailed information and tips given in maps, photographs and illustrations.
this guide will help you to get the most out Restaurant and hotel recommendations can
of your visit to Poland. Introducing Poland be found in the Travellers’ Needs section,
maps the country and sets it in its historical together with information about shopping
and cultural context. First is an area-by-area and entertainment. The Survival Guide
chapter on Warsaw, followed by eight has tips on everything from transport to
regional chapters, including Krakow and making a phone call, as well as other
Gdańsk. Main sights are described using practical matters.
Poland Area by Area POLAND REGION BY REGION 115

Each area can be easily
MAZOVIA AND THE identified by its colour-coded
Poland has been divided LUBLIN REGION thumb tab.
into six main areas, each In the nostalgic lowland landscape of Mazovia, sandy
roads wind through the fields, lines of windswept willows
one identified by its own stand in isolation, and meadows stretch to the edge of
valleys where swift rivers flow. For centuries, Podlasie was the
1 Introduction
borderland between the Poles and the eastern Slavonic peoples.
colour code; the cities of The hilly Lublin region has many excellent examples of Renaissance
and Baroque architecture.
Warsaw, Krakow and For centuries, Mazovia was, both culturally politically active yet conservative petty
This section describes the
and economically, one of the least
developed areas of the ethnically Polish
yeoman-gentry. Even today, in the east of
the region and in Podlasie, farmsteads, character and history of
Gdańsk also have their lands of the Commonwealth of Two with humble cottages built in the style
Nations. In the early Middle Ages it was
the homeland of the Mazowie tribe. It was
of mansions, can be seen. Apart from
Warsaw, the towns of Mazovia have each area, highlighting its
own chapters and colour united with the state of the Polanie under always been modest, and this is evident
Prince Mieszko I (963–92). The Principality
of Mazovia came into existence in 1138,
even today in more recent buildings and
modern urban planning. development over the
codes. On the inside front during the division of Poland, and it
preserved its independence for nearly 400
After the Congress of Vienna (1815),
Mazovia and the Lublin region formed
centuries and what it has
years. Mazovia was incorporated into the part of the Congress Kingdom, under
cover is a general map Kingdom of Poland in 1526 after the death

of the last Mazovian princes, and in 1596,
Russian rule. In 1918, the whole area
was returned to the reborn Poland.
to offer the visitor today.
Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital of The Lublin area differs considerably
of the country showing the Commonwealth of Two Nations from

Krakow to Warsaw, in Mazovia.
Mazovia’s cultural distinctiveness has
from Mazovia, in both landscape and
culture. Its architectural jewel is the
delightful town of Kazimierz Dolny,
these areas. All the most been influenced by the presence of a on the banks of the Vistula.
interesting places to visit

are located on the Regional
Map in each chapter.
116 POLAND REGION BY REGION MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 117
Mazovia – a region famous for its orchards

Exploring Mazovia and the Lublin Region
Detail of a colourful and beautifully decorated building on Zamosc’s Main Market Square
Key
Motorway
The Kampinoska Forest (Puszcza Kampinoska), a national Main road
park, extends out from the suburbs of Warsaw. There are also Minor road
large tracts of woodland, with wild animals, in the north and Olsztyn Main railway
south of Mazovia. The Lublin region has a more diverse Minor railway
Or
landscape. The gorge of the Vistula, around the town Mława yc

z
International border
of Kazimierz Dolny, is one of the region’s most Ostrołęka Regional border
Przasnysz
2 Regional Map
beautiful sights. Roztocze and Zamość, widely
a Białystok
described as the “pearl of the Renaissance”, Wkr
Toruń OPINOGÓRA
are also very picturesque. Mazovia has CIECHANÓW Róźan
ruins of brick-built castles, and in both
This shows the road regions there are many country

Raciąź Narew
Ostrów Detail of the Romanesque portal of the church in Czerwińsk
Wk
Wh i te Mazowiecka
mansions. Żelazowa Wola is on the Vistula
ra
PUŁTUSK Fo res t
Fryderyk Chopin’s birthplace and Płońsk TREBLINKA
network and provides an nearby Łowicz is a well-known

centre of folklore. Łąck
PŁOCK MA ZO W I E C K I E
Vist
Wyszków
Serock Stara Wieś

Getting Around
ul Warsaw, the chief city of Mazovia, has regular air
illustrated overview of the

a CZERWIŃSK
Kutno links to major cities worldwide and to principal
Wyszogród Legionowo WĘGRÓW
Kampinoska Forest
Wołomin Liw towns in Poland. All the larger towns in both
Brochów ŻELAZOWA regions have rail links. Travelling by
WOLA WARSAW express from Warsaw to Lublin
whole region. The most
Kałuszyn Łosice
Sochaczew
Siedlce Kobrin takes a little over two hours. All
Mińsk places recommended in this
ŁOWICZ Piaseczno Mazowiecki
Biała guidebook are accessible by
Łódź Podlaska
NIEBORÓW Zyrardów
interesting places to visit ARKADIA

Skierniewice
Grójec
Góra
Kalwaria
CZERSK
Garwolin
Łuków Międzyrzec
Podlaski
bus. However, many of the
smaller ones are more easily
reached by car. Highway E30
crosses Mazovia from east
are numbered, and there The house of the novelist Stefan Żeromski
(1864–1925) in Nałęczów
Rawa
Mazowiecka Warka
Żelechów
RADZYŃ
PODLASKI
to west. From Warsaw, take
highway E77 for Radom and
highway 17 for Lublin.
ca
Mogielnica i
Pil
are useful tips on getting Kozienice Kock

Sights at a Glance Nowe Miasto L UB E LS K I E
Częstochowa nad Pilicą Deblin
1 Płock A TOUR AROUND Włodawa
2 Ciechanów KAZIMIERZ DÓLNY Polesian
around the region by car

Lubartów
National
3 Opinogóra Park 0 kilometres 25
Przysucha RADOM Zwoleń Puławy
4 Pułtusk KOZŁÓWKA
0 miles 25
5 Czerwińsk on the Vistula Janowiec Nałęczów
Chlewiska Oroŉsk
Łęczna
and public transport. 6 Żelazowa Wola

7 Łowicz
8 Arkadia
SZYDŁOWIEC
IŁŻA
KAZIMIERZ
DOLNY LUBLIN
CHEŁM
9 Nieborów
0 Treblinka
Krasnystaw
q Węgrów
Kraśnik Wy ż y n a
w Czersk
e Radom
Lubelska
Kielce Hrubieszów
r Szydłowiec
t Iłża Janów Szczebrzeszyn
u Kazimierz Dolny
Lubelski ZAMOŚĆ
i Lublin pp126–7 Frampol
o Kozłówka
Rzesów
p Radzyń Podlaski Biłgoraj
Tomaszów
a Chełm Lubelski
s Zamość pp130–31 Tanew
118 POLAND REGION BY REGION M A ZTours

OVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 119
y A Tour around Lviv
Kazimierz Dolny Landscape of Roztocze, in the Lublin uplands
R Cathedral of Our Lady Gothicandbrick tower, houses the
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 pp311–33 For keys to symbols see back flap
of Mazovia small Regional Museum. Of
ul. Tumska 3. Tel 24 262 34 35. equal interest is the Gothic-
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am– Renaissance collegiate church,
2pm Sun (use the side entrance). with barrel vaulting over the nave
The most interesting part of executed by Gianbattista of
Płock is Tum Hill (Wzgórze Venice in 1551 and 1556.
Tumskie), with its Renaissance To the south of the market
Cathedral of Our Lady of square rise the walls of the
Mazovia and castle remains. castle of the bishops of Płock.
The cathedral, built in 1531–5 Destroyed and rebuilt a number
was the first large Renaissance of times, it incorporates
church in Poland. It was raised Renaissance, Baroque and
by Andrzej Krzycki, Bishop of Neo-Classical elements. After
Płock, later Primate of Poland restoration work in the 1980s
and a noted scholar and poet. Ruins of the Gothic Castle of the Mazovian princes in Ciechanów the House of the Polish
The nave of the Renaissance cathedral Giovanni Cini and Bernardino Diaspora (Dom Polonii) was set
2 Ciechanów 3 Opinogóra
in Płock Zanobi de Gianotis were the up here. Visitors can stay in the
architects, with later rebuilding The Neo-Classical town hall in the Old Road map E3. * 44,000. Road map E3. * 580. £ @ hotel and enjoy tennis,
by Gianbattista of Venice. The £ @ n ul. Warszawska 34. canoeing, rowing, horse riding
1 Płock Market Square in Płock
∑ umciechanow.pl
interior of the cathedral is full Opinogóra is closely associated and winter sledging parties.
Road map D3. * 122,000. £ @ of Renaissance and Baroque which date from the 1400s. with Count Zygmunt Krasiński The old-time Polish kitchen,
n ul. Stary Rynek 8 (24 367 19 44).
tombstones. A marble The museum also possesses On the edge of the town stand (1812–59), a leading poet of the which serves home-made fruit
∑ plock.eu
sarcophagus in the Royal woven sashes from the old the Gothic ruins of the red-brick Romantic movement. The tiny and berry liqueurs and home-
Chapel holds the remains court dress of the nobility Castle of the Mazovian princes, Neo-Gothic mansion, situated in baked sourdough bread, is
This city, beautifully situated of Władysław I and his son (see pp34–5). Sashes were built around 1420–30. After an extensive landscaped park, recommended. Also worth
on the high Vistula Bluff, is Bołesław III. The grand Neo- often made into vestments. Mazovia was incorporated into was built as a wedding present seeing in the old town is the
best known today for its large Renaissance façade of the the Kingdom of Poland, the for him. According to the locals, 18th-century Jesuit Church of
petrochemical plants. Its history, cathedral, with its twin towers, E Museum of Mazovia widowed Queen Bona often it was designed by the French Saints Peter and Paul.
however, goes back many was built at the start of the ul. Tumska 8. Tel 24 364 70 71. Open stayed here. Today, the castle architect Eugène Emmanuel
centuries. From 1075, Płock was 20th century to a controversial 1 May–14 Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; accommodates one of the Viollet-le-Duc, although art E Regional Museum
the seat of the bishopric of design by Stefan Szyller, 15 Oct–30 Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. exhibitions of the Museum of historians attribute it to Henryk Rynek 41. Tel 23 692 51 32.
Mazovia. Under Władysław I who was in charge of the & (free on Thu). the Mazovian Nobility (Muzeum Marconi. Today, the mansion Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun & public
(1079–1102) and his heir restoration work. The Museum of Mazovia Szlachty Mazowieckiej). houses the Museum of hols. & (free on Thu).
Bołesław III Wrymouth (1102– (Muzeum Mazowieckie) is In the town itself is the Gothic Romanticism (Muzeum
3 Detailed Information
1138), Płock was the capital of E Diocesan Museum located in a former monastery Church of the Annunciation, Romantyzmu). Environs
Poland and the favoured royal ul. Tumska 3a. Tel 24 262 26 23. and houses one of the largest founded in the first half of the The romantic park in which Near the town, on the right bank
seat. From 1138 to the end of Open May–Sep: 10am–3pm Tue–Sat, collections of Art Nouveau in 16th century and rebuilt in the the mansion is set also contains of the Narwa, are water meadows
the 15th century, Płock was the 11am–4pm Sun & public hols; the world. Exhibits include 17th, the parish Church of the the parish church, with the and the White Forest (Puszcza
place of residence of the
Mazovian and Płock princes.
In the 12th century, it was an
Oct–Apr: 10am–1pm Wed–Sat,
11am–2pm Sun & public hols.
& 8 ∑ mdplock.pl
reconstructions of domestic
interiors, with works of art,
furniture, textiles and everyday
Nativity of the Blessed Virgin
Mary, dating from the 16th
century, and the modest Neo-
mausoleum of the Krasiński
family where the poet is buried.
Noteworthy too is the marble
Biała), which has a rich variety of
plants and wildlife, including
over 200 species of birds.
All the important towns
important centre of political
and cultural life in Poland.
The buildings of old Płock
are relatively modest, although
The Diocesan Museum
(Muzeum Diecezjalne) contains
a rich collection of cathedral
treasures. Especially noteworthy
objects of the period.
Environs
There are sports facilities on
Gothic town hall, designed by tomb of Count Zygmunt’s
Henryk Marconi in the mid-19th mother, Maria Krasińska, by Luigi
century. The low-rise apartment Pampaloni, dating from 1841.
blocks with gable roofs near the
and other places to visit are
the small Neo-Classical
houses, now restored, make
a picturesque ensemble.
are the gold vessels and
liturgical textiles, particularly
the chasubles, the oldest of
Lake Włocławek, a reservoir on
the Vistula, and a stud farm at
Łąck, 9 km (5 miles) from Płock.
railway station were built during E Museum of Romanticism
the Nazi occupation. After the
fall of Poland in September
ul. Krasińskiego 9. Tel 23 671 70 25.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Apr:
8am–4pm). & 8
described individually. They
Particularly noteworthy is the 1939 and the annexation of
Neo-Classical town hall, built in
1824–7 to a design by Jakub
Kubicki. Here, on 23 September
northern Mazovia to the Third
Reich, the Nazis planned to
settle German colonists in many
4 Pułtusk
are listed in order and follow
1831 during the uprising against towns here. Except for the castle Road map E3. * 19,200. @
Russian rule, the final session of
the insurgent Sejm of the
Kingdom of Poland was held.
and parish church, they n Rynek 41, Town Hall Tower
intended to demolish the whole (23 692 51 32). ∑ pultusk.pl
of Ciechanów and build it anew.
the numbering shown on
Another notable building is
the large Neo-Gothic cathedral
(1911–19) of the Mariavite
Church of Poland. Also worth
E Museum of the
Mazovian Nobility
ul. Warszawska 61a. Tel 23 672 53 46.
Of all the small towns in Mazovia,
Pułtusk has the most beautiful
setting. Its historic centre, located
on an island formed by an arm
the Regional Map. Detailed
seeing are the Baroque church,
the Classical toll-gates and the
remains of the Gothic city walls. Tum Hill from the Vistula, with the cathedral and Benedictine abbey
Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sun (Jul–Aug: of the River Narwa, has one of
10am–6pm). & (free one day a week, the longest market squares in
usually Sat). ∑ muzeumciechanow.pl Europe. The town hall, with its
The town hall at Pułtusk, in one of
Europe’s longest market squares
information is given about
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and pp311–13
the most important sights.

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
194 POLAND REGION BY REGION WROCŁAW 195 The Visitors’ Checklist provides
d Wrocław R Church of the Holy Name VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
practical information about
of Jesus
The city of Wrocław bears the stamp of several cultures. It was
founded by a Czech duke in the 10th century and a Polish
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Tel 71 344 94 23.
This church (Kościół Najświęt-
szego Imienia Jezus), built for
Practical Information
Road map C4. * 630,000.
n Rynek 14 (71 344 31 11).
transport, opening times, events
bishopric was established here in 1000. Later it became the _ Festival of Stage Songs (Mar);
capital of the duchy of Silesian Piasts, and then came under
Czech rule in 1335. In 1526, with the whole Czech state, it was
the Jesuits in 1689–98, is a good
example of Silesian Baroque
church architecture. The modest
Jazz on the Odra (May);
International Street Art Festival
and the closing dates of places of
incorporated into the Habsburg Empire, and in 1741 was (Aug); Wrocław Guitar Festival
exterior conceals a breathtaking
transferred to Prussian rule. The fierce defence that German
forces put up here in the last months of World War II left
interior, built in 1722–34 by
Krzysztof Tausch. The vaulting
(Nov). ∑ wroclaw.pl
Transport
particular interest.
was decorated by the Viennese The Baroque Hochberg Chapel beside the k Strachowice 11 km (7 miles)
almost three-quarters of the city in ruins. However, west of Wrocław. £ ul.
artist Johann Michael Rottmayer Church of St Vincent
reconstruction has largely healed the ravages of the past. in 1704–6. Piłsudskiego 105.
Church of
Baroque pietą in the Church of the St Martin Church of the
Piasek Island Holy Cross Church of
P Wrocław University Holy Name of Jesus Church of
most
Tumski Ś W. St Giles 17th-century paintings,
IDZIE
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pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Aula Leopoldina: St Anna including works by the Silesian
Church of the K AT PLAC
EDRA KATED-
PLAC ŚW. LNA
Tel 71 375 26 18. Open 10am–4pm Holy Name of Jesus JADWIGI Church of RALNY artist Michael Willmann (1630–
St Mary Archbishop’s Cathedral of
Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am–5pm Fri–Sun. Wrocław University Ossoliński on Piasek Palace St John the Baptist 1706) and wooden sculptures
4
& ∑ uni.wroc.pl
Main Towns
PLAC Library by Thomas Weissfeldt (1630–
Arsenal KA UNIWERSYTECKI Church of OSTRÓW TUMSKI
DZ
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Wrocław University was CIES GRO UNIW
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St Vincent
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established as an academy 11 km (7 miles) TK
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MIK NIC
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individual section where the

J A N A E WA N G E L IS T Y National
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among them the nuclear
P O D WA L E
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physicist Max Born (1882–
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other places of interest are
SZ E
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KR
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decoration includes stucco- PO PLAC still contains Gothic ducal tombs. ul. Purkyniego 11. Tel 71 344 16 61.
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work, gilding and carvings AL Wenceslas, Stanisław Next door, at No. 17, is the Gothic Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (summer:
E and Dorothy M E N N
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PODW
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Church of St Maciej (Kościół św. to 5pm daily). Closed see the website
WIER
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and paintings by Christoph T E AT Macieja), which dates from the for details. & (buy tickets online).
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Opera Hause
Handke glorifying wisdom, 14th and early 15th centuries
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knowledge and science, and BO ŻEG Theatre and was once owned by the This painting depicts the Battle
interest are located on the

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the founders of the academy. Park Knights Hospitallers of the Red of Racławice of 4 April 1794,
Jewish Cemetery POD Star. The pavilion of the gallery when the Poles defeated the
WALE
at No. 8, on the opposite side of Russians. It is 120 m (400 ft)
the street, contains 13th-century long and 15 m (46 ft) high and
town map
Train station
Central Wrocław 550 m (600 yards)
walls of the House of the Nuns took the artists Jan Styka and
1 Wrocław University of Trebnica, the oldest surviving Wojciech Kossak nine months
2 Church of the Holy Name secular building in the city. to paint. Unveiled in 1894 in
+ Plac Biskupa Nankera Lviv, in Ukraine, it was brought
of Jesus
The buildings in this square date E National Museum to Poland in 1946 and put on
3 Plac Biskupa Nankera
from various periods. The Gothic pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5. Tel 71 display in Wrocław in 1985.
4 National Museum
Church of St Vincent (Kościół 372 51 50. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
5 Panorama of Racławice Wed–Sun (to 6pm Sat); Oct–Mar:
św. Wincentego), at No. 5, was
6 Bernadine Church and Monastery 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (to 5pm Sat).
erected in the 13th to the 15th
7 Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene & 7 (free on Sat, limited
centuries. The late 17th-century
8 Kameleon Store Baroque monastery is now part availability). ∑ mnwr.art.pl
9 Market Square of the University of Wrocław. The ground floor contains
0 Town Hall The group of Baroque examples of Silesian and Gothic
q Church of St Elizabeth monastic buildings at No. 16 art, including the tombstone of
w Royal Palace encloses the small 13th-century Henry IV, the Good, dating from
e Church of Saints Wenceslas, Church of St Clare (Kościół św. 1300. The first floor has a Rotunda containing the Panorama of
The richly ornamented interior of the university assembly hall Stanisław and Dorothy Klary). The church was used by collection of 16th- and Racławice
For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16 For keys to symbols see back flap
The town map shows

the main roads, stations
and tourist offices.
198 POLAND REGION BY REGION WROCŁAW 199
Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island Gate of the Church

of St Giles
Ostrów Tumski was once an island in the River Odra, and it is The gate of the Church
of St Giles is decorated
here that the history of Wrocław began. According to with a stone “dumpling”
legend, the city was founded by Duke Vratislav of Bohemia. about which guides tell
In the year 1000 a bishopric was established and the island a variety of legends.
grew into a centre of ducal power. After the city moved to
the left bank of the Odra in 1292, the island remained the
base of ecclesiastical authority. In the 19th century the
northern arm of the Odra was filled in and Tumski ceased to
be an island. Tumski Bridge connects it to Piasek Island, a
small sandbank that since the first half of the 12th century
has been the location of a monastery for canons regular.
Church of St Giles 0 metres 100
Church of the Holy Cross
This tiny late Romanesque church, 0 yards 100
A
(Kościół św. Krzyża)

built in the 1230s, is the oldest
D
This Gothic church is set on

N
surviving church in Wrocław.

LO
two levels. The upper church is

reached via a portal enclosed
H
by a double arch.
.
A
Church of St Arch-
.
Martin
RD
diocesan
KA
Museum
ŚWIĘ TOKRZYSK A
A
A I NK
NI K OM
Tumski Bridge NO . B
.
The present bridge KA RD
KA
was built in 1888– NY
92. The figures of St AL
MOST MŁ
Ś W. DR
Jadwiga and St John MAR
CINA A TE
. K
the Baptist guarding it are PL
by Gustav Grunenberg.
5 Street-by-Street Map
YŃSKI
LNA
RA
ED
KAT
This gives a bird’s-eye view of

the key areas of interest in the
ŚW, JAD
Monument to St
John Nepomuk
main towns and cities with
photographs and captions
WIGI
describing the sights.

. Church of St Mary Archbishop’s Palace . Cathedral of St John the Baptist
on Piasek (Kościół NMP na Piasku) The residence of the archbishops of The cathedral presents a combination of
Key
The interior of the church was Wrocław was once the chapterhouse. It was styles from different periods. The spires
restored after World War II. Suggested route rebuilt in 1792 in the Neo-Classical style. on its towers were added in 1991.
Stars indicate the sights that A suggested route for a walk covers
no visitor should miss. the more interesting streets in the area.
138 POLAND REGION BY REGION KRAKOW 139
3 Church of St Mary VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Neo-Baroque reconstruction

in the early years of the
The imposing Church of St Mary (Kościół . Crucifix Practical Information 20th century. The original
The large sandstone pl. Mariacki 5. Tel 12 422 05 21. church on this site was built
Mariacki) was built by the citizens of Krakow
crucifix by Veit Stoss Open 11:30am–6pm daily (from in the early 13th century. At
to rival the Royal Cathedral on Wawel Hill. is a fine example of 2pm Sun). Altarpiece of Veit Stoss: the end of the 19th century,
Building began in 1355, but work on the 15th-century Open from 11:50am daily (2pm huge monumental public
vaulting and the chapels continued until sculpture. Sun). & ^ ∑ mariacki.com buildings and splendid private
the mid-15th century, and the lower Transport houses were erected around
tower was not completed until the @ 124, 152, 304, 424, 502. the square. The Academy of
early 16th. At this time, sermons were v 1, 3, 7, 8, 18, 24. Fine Arts, at No. 13, designed
by Maciej Moraczewski and
preached in German. This great basilica,
Gothic built between 1879 and 1880,
with its rows of side chapels, contains stained-glass is particularly impressive.
an exceptional number of important window made The Grunwald Monument in
works of art. around 1370 the centre of the square was
Stained-glass window, Medical Society unveiled in 1910 to mark the
Building 500th anniversary of the Battle
of Grunwald (see p47), in which
6 Medical Society the armies of the Teutonic
Hejnał Tower Knights were routed. The huge
Building
6 Major Sights The famous trumpet call – sculpture of Władysław Jagiełło

the Hejnał – is sounded ul. Radziwiłłowska 4. Tel 12 422 75 47. is by Antoni Wiwulski.
hourly from the tower. v 1, 3, 9, 10, 13, 19, 22. Open
The call is unfinished, in 10am–3pm Mon–Fri (stained glass
These are given two full pages. There memory of a medieval

trumpeter, shot while
sounding the alarm.
The Hejnał is
by appt). ∑ tlk.cm-uj.krakow.pl
The Medical Society Building

8 Barbican
ul. Basztowa. Tel 12 422 98 77. @ 124,
152, 502. v 3, 4, 14, 18. Open Apr–
(Gmach Towarzystwa Oct: 10:30am–6pm daily. &
are cutaways or reconstructions of broadcast live by

Polish radio daily
at noon.
Lekarskiego) was designed by
Władysław Kaczmarski and Józef
Sowiński and built in 1904. It
The Barbican (Barbakan)
is one of the remaining
historic buildings, maps of national would hardly merit mention

were it not for its interior decor,
the creation of Stanisław
Wyspiański, one of the most
elements of Krakow’s medieval
fortifications. The double ring
of walls that once surrounded
the city was built in stages
parks with information about trails talented artists of the Young

Poland movement. He was
responsible for the interior
from 1285 to the beginning
of the 15th century. Most of
the circumvallation was pulled
decoration of individual rooms down in the 19th century. The
and facilities available, and there are Visitors’

entrance
and furnishings inspired by folk
art, as in the magnificent
stained-glass window Apollo
Barbican was built in 1498–9,
when the city’s defences were
strengthened in response to
and The Solar System. advances in military tactics
floorplans of the major museums. 7 Plac Matejki

and equipment. It protected
the Florian Gate, to which it
was connected by an
Photographs highlight the most @ 124, 152, 424, 502.

v 2, 4, 7, 14, 18.
This typical Krakovian

underground passage. The
latter’s route is indicated by
a change in the colour of the
paving stones.
interesting features. Main

square was laid out at
the end of the 19th
century. The Church
of St Florian (Kościół
entrance św. Floriana),
on the corner of
Ulica Warszawska,
. Altarpiece of Veit Stoss is considerably
Ciborium This polyptych – the world’s older. Its present
Baroque Porch This large ciborium, in the largest Gothic altarpiece – is 11 m appearance is the
This pentagonal porch was built form of a Renaissance church, (36 ft) wide and 13 m (42 ft) high. result of frequent
Stars highlight the details that no in the mid-18th century to a

design by Francesco Placidi.
was made by Giovanni Maria
Padovano in about 1552.
It was carved by Veit Stoss in
1477–89.
rebuilding – in
particular a The 15th-century Barbican, based on Arab designs
visitor should miss.

INTRODUCING
POLAND
Discovering Poland 10–15

Putting Poland on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Poland 18–37
Poland Through the Year 38–41
The History of Poland 42–61
10 INTRODUCING POLAND
DISCOVERING POLAND
The following itineraries have been designed everything from vibrant modern cities like
to take in as many of Poland’s highlights as Poznań and Wrocław to quaint medieval
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Toruń and magical Lublin, plus stunning
manageable. First come three two-day tours: natural landscapes and the snow-capped
the first covers the capital Warsaw, a Tatra Mountains of the far south. Ideas for
boisterous modern metropolis, while the extending your stay include the tranquil,
others take in romantic, monument-studded unspoilt Mazurian Lakes and the hauntingly
Krakow and the evocative, history-soaked bare Bieszczady Mountains. Pick, combine
port city of Gdańsk. Next comes a two-week and follow your favourite tours, or simply
tour of the whole country that includes dip in and out and be inspired.
Baltic
Sea
Gdańsk
POMORSKIE
Malbork
ZACHODNIO-
POMORSKIE
a
isł
W
KUJAWSKO-
POMORSKIE
Wa rt a Toruń
Poznań
Tatra Mountains WIELKOPOLSKIE

Zakopane, seen here from the top of Mount
LUBUSKIE
Gubałówka, in the Tatra Mountains, is Poland’s
foremost winter resort. However, it has
Odr a
much to offer all year round, with great
walking trails and charming scenery.
DOLNOŚLĄSKIE
Wrocław
OPOLSKIE
ŚLĄSKIE
Auschwitz-Birkenau
Memorial Museum
Two-Week Grand Tour of Poland
•
Spend a day exploring the •
Study the face of contemporary •
Spend an evening enjoying
imposing riverside fortress Poland in Wrocław, an the alfresco cafés on the main
of Malbork, former capital arresting historic city that is square in Zamość – Poland at
of the Teutonic Knights. the commercial and cultural its most Italianate.
•
Stroll the streets of charming capital of the southwest. •
Immerse yourself in the
Toruń, a laid-back university •
Experience exhilarating magical Old Town atmosphere
town packed with an mountain scenery and a of Lublin, eastern Poland’s
engaging jumble of rich choice of outdoor most evocative city.
medieval, Renaissance activities with a visit to the
and Baroque buildings. Tatra National Park.
A 19th-century rendition of Plac Zamkowy in Warsaw, dominated by Zygmunt’s Column

DISCOVERING POLAND 11
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Old Town in Toruń

The university town of Toruń boasts the delightful
Old Market Square, which is a popular meeting place
for locals and visitors. Among the notable buildings
on this pedestrianized plaza is the Town Hall, parts
Mazurian of which date back to the 14th century.
Lakes
Mikołajki
WARMIŃSKO-
MAZURSKIE
PODLASKIE
ew
Nar
Key
MAZOWIECKIE Białowieża
National Park Two-Week Grand
Bug Tour of Poland
W is
ła
Warsaw
ŁÓDZKIE
Pulawy
Kozlówka
Kazimierz Dolny Lublin
LUBELSKIE
ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKIE
Zamość
isła
W
Krakow
PODKARPACKIE
Wieliczka
Salt Mine
MAŁOPOLSKIE
Dunajec Raft Ride

Zakopane
Bieszczady
Tatra Mountains
National
Park
Wrocław Cathedral
The Cathedral of St John the Baptist,
with its distinctive spires, was erected
over several centuries, damaged in
World War II and subsequently rebuilt.
Palace (pp100–101), which

Two Days in Warsaw features a beautiful outdoor
space filled with ornamental
Poland’s vibrant capital is a gardens and lakes. Continue
fast-changing city with southwards by bus along Aleje
many interesting sights. The Ujazdowskie to Wilanów
centre is easily walkable, (pp102–3), site of Poland’s
and there are also good grandest palace and packed
metro and tram services. to the gills with fine art.
•
Arriving Warsaw has two
airports: one at Okęcie, To extend your trip…
accessed by fast suburban Get to grips with Poland’s
train; the other at Modlin. The World War II history by
latter, mainly used by budget visiting the commemorative
airlines, is linked to the city sites west of the centre.
Start at the Monument to The spendid interior of the Church of
by bus. Warsaw is also served
the Heroes of the Ghetto St Mary, Krakow
by a good train network.
(p97), then follow the Trail
of Jewish Martyrdom the covered stalls of the
Day 1 and Struggle (p97) to the Renaissance Cloth Hall (p137).
Morning Begin with a tour of Umschlagplatz Monument Visit the innovative Rynek
the Royal Castle (pp70–71), (pp96–7). Finish up with a Underground museum
whose opulent interiors recall visit to the superb Warsaw (p137), then head to the
the glories of the Polish past. Rising Museum (p99). sumptuously decorated
From here, dive into the Church of St Mary (pp138–9);
beautifully restored alleys try to be there by 11:50am
and squares of the Old Town, sharp to observe the ritual
calling at the Cathedral of
Two Days in Krakow unveiling of Veit Stoss’s altar.
St John (p72) before entering
the Old Town Square (p73). The former royal capital of Afternoon Stroll north along
Follow this with a visit to the Poland boasts a vast array Ulica Floriańska (p140) in the
Barbican and city walls (p73). of memorable sights, from direction of the Barbican
the Main Market Square to (p139), before heading west
Afternoon Head south along the Wawel Castle palace through leafy Planty Park
Krakowskie Przedmieście complex. towards Plac Szczepański
(pp80–81), the elegant avenue (p140). Delve into Krakow’s
•
Arriving John Paul II Airport,
that runs past the University and Art Nouveau heritage with
at Balice, is linked by train to
the Church of St Anne (p81). a visit to the inspirational
Krakow’s main railway station,
Detour west from here to visit Szołaysky House (p143).
which is also served by trains
either Zachęta (p94), housing Walk south through the
from Warsaw, Gdańsk and
Poland’s finest contemporary art atmospheric University Quarter
various European cities.
gallery, or the Ethnographical to the Collegium Maius (p141)
Museum (p95), with its and the splendid Baroque
colourful folk costumes. Unwind Church of St Anne (p141).
with a stroll through the Saxon Day 1 Finish up at the Franciscan
Gardens (p94), or spend the Morning Start with a circuit Church (p142), famous for its
evening in the restaurants and of the Main Market Square beautiful Art Nouveau frescoes
bars of Nowy Świat (p84). (pp136–7) before exploring by Stanisław Wyspiański.
Day 2
Morning Start the day at the
iconic Palace of Culture and
Science (p95), a Stalinist-era
building that contains a
viewing platform and several
cafés. Admire the extensive
collections of the National
Museum (pp86–7) before taking
a breather at one of the cafés on
Plac Trzech Krzyży (p85).
Afternoon Head south on

foot or by bus along Aleje
Ujazdowskie (p85) to Łazienki The manicured gardens of Wilanów Palace, on the outskirts of Warsaw
For practical information on travelling around Poland, see pp346–53
Day 2
Morning Walk south from the
Main Market Square along
Ulica Grodzka (p142) to the
Wawel (pp144–5). View the
royal tombs at the Cathedral
(pp148–9) and climb the bell
tower before taking a tour of
the Wawel Royal Castle
(pp146–7). Admire the stunning
views of the Vistula river from
the ramparts of the citadel.
Afternoon A short walk south

of the Wawel is the bohemian
Kazimierz Quarter, offering
plenty of restaurants and Some of the buildings of Gdańsk’s Polish Maritime Museum, on the River Motława
cafés that are ideal for lunch.
Explore the multicultural past the west bank of the Motława
of this historic quarter with a Two Days in Gdańsk and follow the river north to
visit to the Old Synagogue the Gdańsk Crane (p243),
(p150), now a museum of With its canals, historic nowadays part of the
Jewish life; next, admire the mansions and Gothic multimedia National Maritime
Gothic Church of Corpus warehouses, the Baltic port Museum (p251). From here it’s
Christi (p150). For the evening, of Gdańsk is an evocative a short stroll to the Raduna
stick around in Kazimierz to city. Also worth a visit are Canal area (pp240–41), a leafy
enjoy the numerous bars and the neighbouring cities of district of ancient churches
clubs of this buzzing district. Sopot, with its famous and medieval mills. Those
beach, and Gdynia, with who are interested in Poland’s
To extend your trip… its maritime attractions. recent history should visit
A 90-minute bus journey the Monument to the
•
Arriving Gdańsk’s airport Shipyard Workers (p241),
from the city of Krakow is
at Rębiechowo is linked commemorating the brutally
the Auschwitz-Birkenau
to the city centre by bus. repressed strikes of 1970.
Museum (p166), which
Trains from Warsaw arrive
was established as a
at Gdańsk main railway Day 2
memorial site by former
station, a 15-minute walk Morning Take a boat or bus
inmates of this notorious
from the Old Town. trip (30 mins) to Westerplatte
concentration camp. Allow
time for a three-hour tour (p255), a fortress at the mouth
of Auschwitz led by expert of the Vistula river where the
guides before exploring the Day 1 first shots of World War II were
vast, numbing expanse of Morning Enter the Old Town fired. If time allows, a visit to
Birkenau, a short way away. via the Highland or Golden the nearby 16th-century
gates (p248), the traditional Wisłoujście Fortress (p255)
starting points of the can also be squeezed into
processional route known your morning schedule. After
as the Royal Way. This route returning to central Gdańsk,
leads past a sequence of take a suburban train (20 mins)
fabulously restored merchants’ to Sopot (p269), a prosperous
houses, the most famous of seaside town famous for its long
which is the Uphagen House sandy beach. Full of cafés and
(p249), which boasts splendid restaurants, Sopot is a good
Baroque interiors. Further down place to pause for lunch.
the street, the monumental
Church of St Mary (pp244–5) is Afternoon Stroll along
the largest brick-built medieval Sopot’s 512-m (1,680-ft)
church in Europe; nearby Artus pier before deciding between
Court (p250) is a 15th-century an afternoon on the nearby
club for aristocratic merchants. beach or a trip to Gdynia
(another 20 minutes by
Afternoon Cross the Green suburban train; p269), where
Bridge to Spichlerze Island the northern pier plays host to
The Cathedral at the Wawel, in Krakow, (p252), an atmospheric area of two floating museum-ships
with its distinctive clock tower riverside warehouses. Return to and a popular aquarium.
before proceeding to the

National Museum, which
contains what is arguably
Poland’s finest art collection
outside Warsaw and Krakow.
If time allows, stroll round the
riverside quarter of Ostrów
Tumski, home to Poznań’s twin-
towered cathedral as well as
numerous smaller churches.
Day 7: Wrocław
Drive south from Poznań to
Wrocław (pp194–203), the fast-
The famous Proserpine Fountain in the Old Market Square, Poznań developing capital of Lower
Silesia. Wrocław’s market square,
Two-Week Grand the walled precinct. With a Poland’s second largest, focuses
Tour of Poland son-et-lumière show lighting on an arresting Gothic town
up the fortress in the evening, hall. Visit the extraordinary
•
Airports The best way to there’s plenty here to fill a day. Panorama of Racławice
enjoy this tour is to arrive (p195), a huge circular painting
at and depart from Warsaw. To extend your trip… celebrating an 18th-century
Bear in mind, however, that Spend a day or two in the battle, then head to the quaint
you can also arrive at and resort of Mikołajki, 250 km Ostrów Tumski cathedral
depart from Gdańsk, Poznań, (155 miles) east of Gdańsk, quarter, which is accessed by
Wrocław or Krakow airports, at the heart of the a landmark cast-iron bridge.
and pick up the circuit Mazurian Lake region
described below from a (pp290–91). You can take a Day 8: Oświęcim (Auschwitz)
different starting point. steamboat trip on Lake From Wrocław, travel east,
•
Transport Public transport Śniardwy, hike to the wild towards Krakow. Stop off en
is time-consuming in swan reserve at Łuknajno, route at the town of Oświęcim,
Poland, and although this or simply stroll beside the site of the Auschwitz-Birkenau
itinerary can be tackled chic yachting marina Memorial Museum (p166). This
using a mixture of train or relax in a lakeside café. notorious former World War II
and bus, travel is much concentration camp, with its
quicker by car. moving museum displays, is
Day 5: Toruń on the eastern outskirts of
From Gdańsk, travel south Oświęcim; the much larger
Days 1 and 2: Warsaw along the Vistula river to the Birkenau, where the Nazis
Follow the two-day city itinerary partly walled university town committed mass murder on
on page 12. of Toruń (pp276–9). Spend the an industrial scale, is a further
afternoon strolling around the 3 km (2 miles) to the east.
Day 3: Gdańsk centre, which is packed with Allow several hours to get
Travel north from Warsaw medieval churches and Baroque the most from your visit.
across the green plains of townhouses, taking time to visit
northern Poland to the port the house museum devoted
city of Gdańsk (pp236–55). to Toruń’s most famous son,
Spend the afternoon and the astronomer Nicolaus
evening exploring Gdańsk’s Copernicus. Be sure to stock up
historic heart by following part on piernik, the local gingerbread,
of the first day of the two-day at one of the town’s bakeries.
city itinerary on page 13.
Day 6: Poznań
Day 4: Malbork Travel from Toruń to the vibrant
Take a day trip from Gdańsk commercial and cultural city of
to the town of Malbork Poznań (pp220–25). Begin an
(pp270–71), site of Poland’s afternoon’s sightseeing on the
most complete medieval famously well-preserved market
fortress complex. Built in the square, which is edged by
13th century by the Teutonic brightly coloured merchants’
Knights, it served as the capital houses and features an
of their independent state. The ebullient, Italianate town hall.
Grand Master’s Palace, Cathedral Have your picture taken in front The rocky shore of Lake Śniardwy, one of
and Castle Museum all lie within of the Proserpine Fountain the Great Mazurian Lakes
For practical information on travelling around Poland, see pp346–53
funicular up Gubałówka Hill, Old Town is a fascinating

famous for its sweeping views warren of alleys, churches
of the park’s highest peaks. An and piazzas. Be sure to visit
alternative way to spend the the castle, with its Holy
day is by floating in leisurely Trinity Chapel decorated
fashion between wooded hills with early 15th-century
on a log-built craft as part of the frescoes. Afterwards, take
Dunajec Raft Ride (pp172–3). a stroll along the elegant
19th-century boulevard of
Day 12: Zamość Krakowskie Przedmieście,
The long journey from or head to the Majdanek
Zakopane to Zamość (pp130– State Museum (p127), one
31) takes you through varied of Poland’s most harrowing
and unspoilt rural countryside. Holocaust memorial sites.
The compact Renaissance town
Stairs leading to the Wieliczka Salt Mine, a of Zamość is easy to explore, Day 14: Kazimierz Dolny
UNESCO World Heritage Site and a late afternoon or early Return to Warsaw via some
evening stroll around the of eastern Poland’s most
Day 9: Krakow main square conveys a strong intriguing small-town sights.
Spend a day in Krakow, historical flavour. If you have Stop first at Kozłówka (p128),
choosing one of the itineraries time for one additional northwest of Lublin, where a
from the Two Days in Krakow attraction, visit the Polish Army museum of Socialist Realist
tour on pages 12–13. Museum, in the former arsenal, art recalls the absurdities of
which contains a stirring account Communist Poland. Next,
To extend your trip… of Poland’s military history. travel east to Puławy (p125),
Spend an extra day where the former palace of the
in Krakow to visit the To extend your trip… Czartoryski family is surrounded
remarkable man-made It will take two days or more by a beautiful landscaped park.
caverns of the Wieliczka to do justice to the beauty of Reserve most time for
Salt Mine (p168), a short the Bieszczady Mountains Kazimierz Dolny (p125),
suburban train ride to the (pp174–5), in Poland’s far a beautifully preserved
southeast of the city. The southeastern corner. 15th-century trading town
remaining half-day in Topped by bare grassy beneath a semi-ruined castle.
Krakow can be spent ridges, these are among the
admiring the extensive art most haunting highland To extend your trip…
and history collections of the landscapes that Poland Take a couple of days to
National Museum (p141). has to offer. The village of travel to and from the
Do not miss the modern Wetlina is a good base from Białowieża National Park
paintings on the top floor. which to tackle the peaks. (p295), where a large stretch
of dense virgin forest is
home to one of Europe’s
Day 10: Zakopane Day 13: Lublin last remaining bison
From Krakow, travel through It takes only a couple of hours populations. There are
increasingly imposing hills to to travel from Zamość to Lublin numerous hiking trails to
mountain-ringed Zakopane (pp126–7), allowing you almost follow, and the opportunity
(pp170–71), gateway to the Tatra a full day of sightseeing in the for a horse-and-cart trip
National Park. Take a walk along main city of eastern Poland. through the forest.
ul. Krupówki, the animated Huddled on a hill, Lublin’s gated
pedestrianized street that runs
through the heart of this
mountain resort, and admire the
many examples of traditional
timber architecture in the
adjoining lanes and alleys.
Day 11: Tatra National Park

Spend the day in and around
Zakopane, enjoying the
impressive scenery of the Tatra
National Park (pp170–71). You
can either take the cable car to
Kasprowy Wierch and follow
one of the popular high-altitude
hiking trails, or travel by A hiking trail in the Bieszczady Mountains
Putting Poland on the Map Baltic

Sea
Poland covers an area of 312,685 sq km (120,696 sq
miles) and is located in the centre of Europe. It borders Władyslawowo
Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine to the east, Slovakia
and the Czech Republic to the south, and Germany Gdynia
to the west. In the north, Poland’s coastline stretches Słupsk Gdańsk
for 528 km (330 miles) on the Baltic Sea and borders Lech Wałęsa
Kaliningrad, an enclave of Russia. Poland has a Gdańsk

Bytów
population of 38.4 million, making it the eighth most Koszalin Tczew
POMORSKIE
highly populated country in Europe. The capital,
Starogard
Warsaw, has over 1.7 million inhabitants. Bobolice Gdański
Biały Bór Czersk
ZACHODNIO-
Człuchów
POMORSKIE Grudziàdz
Szczecin Złotów
Bydgoszcz
Piła
Bydgoszcz Toruń
Człopa
Schwedt/
Wittstock Oder Dobiegniew K U J AW S K O -
POMORSKIE
Rogoêno
a
r t Inowrocław
Gorzów Wa
Wielkopolski
Oranienburg Oborniki Gniezno
Frankfurt Poznań
Berlin (Oder) Poznań-Ławica
Łagów
Potsdam Konin
Wolsztyn WIELKOPOLSKIE
Jarocin
Luckenwalde
Zielona Góra Leszno
Cottbus LUBUSKIE Kalisz
Coswig Żagań Ostrów

Głogów
Wielkopolski
GERMANY
Lubin
O d ra
Wieruszów
Legnica Oleśnica
Gorlitz
Leipzig Wrocław-Copernicus Wrocław

Kluczbork
Dresden DOLNOŚLĄSKIE
Jelenia Góra OPOLSKIE
Liberec
Wałbrzych Opole
Lubliniec
Europe
N O R W AY
ESTONIA
SWEDEN
Kędzierzyn-
Koźle
Nor th LATVIA
Sea DENMARK Hradec
LITHUANIA Králové
Rybnik
NETHERLANDS BELARUS
UNITED
KINGDOM POLAND
GERMANY
Ostrava
BELGIUM
Svitavy
CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA Olomouc
F RANCE
AUSTRIA
CZECH
SWITZ. HUNGARY
Atlantic
SLOV.
CROATIA
ROMANIA REPUBLIC
Ocean BOSNIA SERBIA
I TA LY HERZ.
MONTEN. Brno
KOS. BULGARIA
MAC.
S PA I N ALBANIA
GREECE
TURKEY
Piestany
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING POLAND ON THE MAP 17
Kaunas
Vilnius
RUSSIAN LITHUANIA
FEDERATION
(KALININGRAD)
Marijampolė
Kaliningrad
n
Gulf of
oo
Danzig L ag Šalčininkai
u la Budzisko
st
Vi Lidzbark
Elbląg Warmiński Suwałki
Druskininkai
Pasłęk
Augustów
WA R M I Ń S K O - Ełk
Olsztyn MAZURSKIE Hrodna
Kwidzyn Ostróda Szczytno
Nidzica Slonim
Vaŭkavysk
Brodnica Łomźa Białystok
Mława
Ostrołęka
Zambrów PODLASKIE
MAZOWIECKIE
Ciechanów
BELARUS
Bielsk
Ostrów Podlaski
w
Lipno Na re Mazowiecka Pružany
Włocławek Wyszków
Płońsk Bug
Płock
Warsaw Modlin
Wi s ł a Warsaw Siedlce Biała Brest
Kutno Kobryn
Pruszków Podlaska
Warsaw Chopin
Łęczyca Międzyrzec
Garwolin Podlaski
Łódź Kock
Łódź
ŁÓDZKIE Włodawa
Tomaszów
Mazowiecki Puławy
Radom Kovel'
Bełchatów Piotrków Lublin
sła
Trybunalski Lublin
Wi
Iłża Chełm
Skarzysko- LUBELSKIE Volodymyr-
Kamienna Volynsky
Kraśnik
Ostrowiec
Zamość
Kielce Opatów
Częstochowa
ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKIE
Jędrzejów Tarnobrzeg
Nisko
ŚLĄSKIE
Zawiercie
UKRAINE
Katowice Mielec Zhovkva
Rzeszów–Jasionka
Katowice
Kraków Rzeszów Radymno
Kraków Tarnów
PODKARPACKIE Lviv
MAŁOPOLSKIE Przemyśl
Bielsko- Krosno 0 kilometres 100
Biała
Nowy Sącz Sanok 0 miles 50
Rabka
Key
Cadca Svidník
Trstená
Motorway
Žilina
Motorway under construction
Ruzomberok Poprad Major road

Presov
Railway
S L O VA K I A Provincial border
Košice
National border
INTRODUCING POLAND 19
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND
Growing numbers of tourists visit Poland every year. Even so, it is still a
relatively unknown country. To travellers crossing the lowlands from Eastern
to Western Europe, there may not appear to be the diversity in landscape
and buildings seen in other European countries, but the pages that follow
show the visitor the variety that Poland has to offer, in terms of its culture,
history and landscape.
Although it is situated in the plains of hornbeam, or beech. Many areas of great

Central Europe, Poland has a varied natural beauty are protected as national
landscape. Alpine scenery predominates parks or reserves.
in the Tatra Mountains along the country’s Mountain lovers can make use of the
southern border, while the north is well-developed infrastructure of hostels
dominated by lakelands, which contrast and other shelters, such as those found in
with the landscape of the Baltic coast. For the Beskid Sądecki or the Tatra Mountains;
those who like unspoiled natural scenery, the more adventurous can explore the
there are areas of primeval forests in unfrequented and almost inaccessible
Białowieża and extensive marshlands Beskid Niski or Bieszczady. All areas have
along the banks of the River Biebrza which clearly marked hiking trails and well-
are a haven for many rare bird and plant equipped shelters (schroniska). The
species. About 30 per cent of the area of countless lakes of Warmia and Mazuria,
Poland is woodland, including a number areas known as the Land of a Thousand
of vast forests covering more than Lakes (Kraina Tysiąca Jezior) are a haven for
1,000 sq km (390 sq miles). Most of these watersports enthusiasts, as are the waters
consist of coniferous trees and mixed of Pomerania and Wielkopolska. The lakes
woodland, but there are also many forests are popular with canoeists and in summer
of deciduous trees, mainly oak and are dotted with rowing and sailing boats.
The Bzura, one of Poland’s many unspoiled rivers

A wooden chapel in the Beskid Niski mountains of Małopolska
A summer’s day on a sandy Baltic beach
Population and Religion Christians; here, religious denomination

Poland’s inhabitants, who number does not necessarily coincide with ethnic
almost 39 million, all but constitute identity, although Belarussians tend to
a single ethnic group, with minorities be Orthodox while Ukrainians belong to
accounting for less than 4 the Greek Catholic (Uniate)
per cent of the population. Church. In the Białystok region
The largest minorities are there are villages where
Belarussians and Ukrainians, Catholics, Orthodox Christians
who inhabit the east of the and Muslims – the
country, and Germans, who are descendants of Tartar settlers –
concentrated mainly around live side by side. As in Spain
the city of Opole in Silesia. and Ireland, the fact that the
The vast majority of Poles are Lacemaker from majority of the population is
Catholic, but large regions of the Koniakowo Catholic continues to exert a
country, such as Cieszyn Silesia, major influence on the moral
have a substantial Protestant population, values of the country, as well as on its
and followers of other denominations political life. An example of this is the many
are also widely dispersed. In the east of debates in the Sejm (the lower house of the
the country there are many Orthodox Polish parliament) that have alternately
limited and liberalized the right to abortion.
Religion, however, is not a major factor in
the way that Poles vote, as election results
show. The political scene is divided
between the supporters of the right and
the post-Communist left. In the first
decade of the 21st century, the Polish
electorate showed itself to be quite
unstable, with each elected government
standing in opposition to the previous one.
Religious belief is outwardly expressed
by a deep reverence for religious symbols
and rituals. Wayside crosses and shrines to
the saints or the Virgin Mary add charm to
Pump room at the spa of Polanica-Zdrój the Polish countryside. The main religious
A PORTRAIT OF POLAND 21
festivals – Christmas, Easter, Corpus Christi

and Assumption, as well as All Saints’ Day,
when almost everyone in Poland,
regardless of their religious denomination,
visits the graves of relatives – are solemnly
observed. An unusual cult surrounds the
Virgin. For centuries, believers from all
over Poland and further afield have
made the pilgrimage to the image of
the Black Madonna in Częstochowa (see
pp162–3). Indeed, throughout Poland
there are shrines to the Virgin, to whom
miraculous powers have been ascribed.
Another famous pilgrimage is made by
Orthodox Christians to the holy mountain
of Grabarka (see p295). Poland is also
visited by Jews from all over the world
who come in remembrance of the millions
who died there during the Holocaust
under German occupation of the Corpus Christi procession
country during World War II.
changed many times over the centuries.
Cultural Variety and Shifting Borders A particularly important change came at
Magnificent buildings bearing witness to the end of World War II, when the Allies
past splendours can be seen at almost approved a westward shift of Poland’s
every step. Most of these monuments borders. As a result, the inhabitants of the
are in Małopolska, Lubelszczyzna, eastern areas, lost to Poland after the war,
Wielkopolska and Lower Silesia. Not all of were resettled, and many were sent to the
them, however, belong to Polish culture, western regions, inhabited by Germans –
since the country’s frontiers have who were in turn displaced.
Restored market square of the Old Town, Wrocław

A poster by Maria Pałasińska dedicated to Solidarity
The legacy of more than 100 years of The country has a substantial foreign
partition rule is still visible in Poland’s trade deficit, but this is balanced by
cultural landscape today. Russian, Prussian the surplus produced by an unofficial
and Austrian administrations left their cross-border trade. There are, however,
mark not only on rural and urban negative aspects of the reforms –
architecture but also on the among them the budget deficit
customs and mentality of and unemployment. The
the Polish people. latter continues to be
high. The problem of
Democratic Change and unemployment is
Economic Development somewhat mitigated
The fall of Communism in Poland by the illegal employment
Logo of the Polish stock
came about largely thanks to exchange of workers, although this is
the efforts of the trade union usually confined to small firms.
Solidarity (Solidarność), which was There is an ambitious programme of
founded in 1980 but forced to go privatization, but it has not yet been
underground after the imposition fully completed, and some enterprises
of martial law. When the democratic are still state-owned.
opposition won the elections to the Sejm Heavy industry tends to be outdated,
and the Senate in 1989, Poland again unprofitable and economically inefficient.
became a country with a parliamentary There is an ongoing systematic
democracy and a market economy. This
was important enough in itself, but it
had wider implications too: by tackling
its inefficient, crisis-ridden socialist
economy, Poland had set the standard
for economic reform in Central and
Eastern Europe as a whole. Many Polish
industries were privatized, and the drastic
reforms that were carried through over a
number of years accelerated Poland’s
GDP to make it the fastest-growing
economy in Europe. By the end of the
1990s, the Polish economy had become
largely resistant to crisis. Session of the Sejm, the lower house of the Polish parliament
and large out-of-town supermarkets and

modern petrol (gas) stations have sprung
up. New buildings – though not always
architecturally distinctive – are going up
everywhere. Market squares and main
streets in many Polish towns have been
pedestrianized. In many of the old towns
that suffered damage during World War II
– including Szczecin, Kołobrzeg, Głogów
and Elbląg – buildings are now being
reconstructed. Smaller towns, too –
swelled by sprawling apartment housing
after the war – are now acquiring more
traditional buildings. Nonetheless, the
vast concrete housing developments
typical of the Communist era still
dominate many Polish townscapes.
Many modern public buildings – mainly
office blocks – are being built, too. Much
of the new development is centred on the
capital, Warsaw, although commercial
investment is now slowly beginning to
The Pazim, the second-tallest building in Szczecin filter through to other cities, among them
Krakow, Katowice, the Baltic conurbation
programme of coal-mine closure, and of Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia, and
former mineworkers have been forced to Wrocław, Poznań and Łódź as well.
look for work elsewhere. Not surprisingly, Poland is also becoming a big draw
this has brought considerable social and for people interested in cultural events
economic problems in its wake. and sports. The creation of new arenas
The archaic farming system is another in Krakow and Łódź and of stadiums in
candidate for restructuring. Polish farming Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław and Poznań
is still based on traditional family before Euro 2012, which Poland co-hosted
smallholdings consisting of no more alongside Ukraine, has brought even more
than a few acres of land. It is seriously life to these energetic cities.
under-mechanized and requires a
disproportionate amount of manpower.
A fundamental part of the reform
process was Poland’s drive to join Western
military and economic structures. In 1999,
Poland became a member of NATO, and
then, in 2004, it joined the European
Union. This required harmonization of the
Polish legal and economic systems with
those of the EU countries, providing a
further powerful incentive to change.
Political and economic changes have
had their impact on Poland’s towns
and cities. Old buildings are being
renovated, attention is being paid to the
environment, new shops have appeared, The privatized Grupa Kęty SA metalworks
The Landscape of Poland Fauna of Poland

Poland’s landscape is very varied. The south of the The most typical
country is bounded by mountain ranges which, Polish wildlife –
including wild
the further north you travel, gradually turn into
boar, deer and
areas punctuated by hills and low-lying ancient hare – is to be
forests. Northern Poland, an area of great natural found in mixed and
beauty, has been shaped by a succession of deciduous forests. Some
glaciers that moved southwards from Scandinavia. Roman snail species, such as bison and
capercaillie, are found
National parks and reserves have been established almost nowhere else in Europe. In the
in many areas. The central regions of the country, Carpathian and Sudety mountains,
consisting of lowlands, merge into picturesque bears and lynxes may be seen.
lakelands and coastal plains.
Mountains Lakeland Scenery

The Tatra Mountains (see pp170– The lakelands that cover
71) are the highest in Central much of northern Poland
Europe. Though covering a small area, consist of picturesque
they provide breathtaking alpine moraine woodland and
scenery. The High Tatras (Tatry Wysokie) thousands of lakes. The largest
are mainly granite, with jagged, rocky and most scenic are the Great
peaks. At 2,499 m (8,200 ft) above sea Mazurian Lakes, in a district known
Nutcracker as the Land of a Thousand Lakes
level, Rysy is the highest peak in
Poland. The Western Tatras (Tatry (Kraina Tysiąca Jezior). Abounding
Zachodnie), consisting of sedimentary rock and in forests, marshes and peat bogs,
crystalline shale, are inhabited by such rare Crane they are a haven for many bird
animals as brown bears, marmots and chamois. species: the largest concentration
of storks in Europe, swans, grebes, cranes
and cormorants.
The crocus (Crocus

satinus) blooms in early
spring in mountain Bog arum (Calla
valleys and alpine palustra) is a poisonous
meadows, mainly in perennial plant with a
the Tatras and Babia characteristic white leaf
Góra ranges. below a globular flower.
It grows in peat bogs.
The silver thistle (Carlina

acaulis) is a protected plant. The great sundew
Its leaves form a rosette (Drosera anglica), an insect-
containing a basket-like eating plant found in peat
flower with a covering of bogs, is a protected
dry, silvery leaves. species in Poland.
Deer, which live Marmots, rodents of the

in herds, are a relatively beaver family, live in
common sight in Poland’s the Tatra Mountains.
deciduous and mixed They “whistle” when
forests. They are hunted disturbed.
as game animals.
Moose live in large
Wild boar, widespread forests, marshes and
in Poland, are the peat bogs, even near
ancestors of the large cities. Large
domestic pig. populations of them can
Deciduous and be seen in Kampinoski
mixed forests are their National Park and in the
principal habitat. Białystok region.
The Lowlands The Coast

The apparent monotony of The sandy beaches of Poland’s Baltic
the lowlands is broken by coast are among the finest in Europe.
elevations, meandering rivers, They are situated by sand dunes
marshes and peat bogs. Most of or cliffs, and were it not for
the land is under cultivation, but river estuaries, it would
there are also extensive forests. be possible to walk along
Białowieża Forest (see p295) Seagull them for the entire length of the
shelters bison. Moose can coast. Narrow sandy spits formed
be seen in the marshes by the coastal currents and known as mierzeje
Hoopoe and storks in the lakes. are a characteristic feature of the shoreline.
Lyme grass
(Elymus arenarius)
grows on the sand
The corn poppy dunes. It has
(Papaver rhoeas) is pointed leaves and
becoming its roots bind the
increasingly rare as it sandy subsoil.
is weeded out from
cereal crops.
Marram grass
Toadflax (Linaria (Ammophila arenarea)
vulgaris) has narrow has narrow grey-green
leaves and yellow- leaves, and flowers
orange flowers with between June and
a characteristic spur. August. Like lyme grass,
It grows in ditches it helps to bind the sand
and on wasteland. dunes where it grows.
Early Polish Architecture

Over the centuries, and particularly during World War II,
Poland lost a great deal of its architectural heritage.
However, major efforts on the part of both private
individuals and the government have meant that many
important buildings have been restored, and in some
cases completely rebuilt. Royal and aristocratic palaces,
churches, castles and entire streets of old towns can thus
be admired today. Traditional wooden buildings are Renaissance courtyard at Wawel
another interesting feature of Polish architecture. Royal Castle
Romanesque
Architecture Semicircular Triforium with
presbytery decorative columns
The Romanesque style
of architecture seen in
Narrow windows that also
Polish cathedrals, palace
served defensive purposes
chapels and monasteries
flourished largely as a
result of the country’s
conversion to Christianity
in the 10th century.
Unfortunately, few
Romanesque buildings
have survived intact.
Among those that have
are the collegiate church
at Tum near Łęczyca (see
p235) and the monastery
at Czerwińsk (see p120),
both of which are
decorated with stone The collegiate church at Tum near This 12th-century
carvings. The Romanesque Łęczyca, dating from the mid-12th Romanesque doorway is
style reached its apogee century, is Poland’s largest surviving from the Cathedral of St
during the 12th century. Romanesque religious building. Mary Magdalene (see p196).
Gothic Architecture
Gothic elements began to appear in late Romanesque architecture
in the early 13th century; this transitional style can be seen in the
abbeys at Wąchock, Sulejów and Koprzywnica. By the end of the
century, the Gothic style was prevalent throughout Polish
architecture. Many fortified castles were built at this time, more
than 80 being founded by
Kazimierz the Great. Notable
examples are those at Będzin,
Ogrodzieniec and Bobolice (see
pp164–5). Gothic churches and
monasteries were also built
throughout the country,
fine examples surviving in
Krakow and Wrocław. The
oldest surviving wooden
churches, such as that at
Dębno, date from the same
period. In Polish provincial The 15th-century church at The doorway of the early
architecture, the Gothic Dębno (see p171) is one of the 15th-century Church of St
style persisted until the oldest surviving wooden Catherine in Krakow has an
early 17th century. churches in Poland. ornamental stepped frame.
The Renaissance and Mannerism

Renaissance architecture was introduced to Poland
in the early 16th century by the Italian architect
Bartolomeo Berrecci, who designed Wawel Royal
Castle and the Zygmunt Chapel in Krakow. Many of
the churches in Mazovia (as at Pułtusk and Płock)
were influenced by the Italian Renaissance, as were
the town halls in Poznań and Sandomierz. From the
mid-16th century onwards, buildings in Pomerania
were designed in the northern Mannerist style.
Decorative ceilings such as those in the churches of The Zygmunt Chapel (see p149) is one
Lubelszczyzna and Kalisz illustrate provincial of the finest examples of Renaissance
interpretations of Renaissance and Mannerist forms. architecture in Poland.
Richly ornamented attic concealing

sunken roofs
Leszczyński Castle in Baranów Sandomierski Central gateways leading to Corner lookout

(see p159) is one of the few surviving late
a courtyard surrounded by cloisters turret
Renaissance buildings in Poland.
Architecture of the Age

Upper lookout gallery
Bas-relief depicting of the Teutonic Knights
St Florian
The Teutonic Knights, who ruled Eastern
Pomerania and Prussia in the 13th and 14th
centuries, left impressive brick-built Gothic
Wooden defence buildings. The knights built defensive castles
galleries reconstructed (such as those at Malbork, Gniew and Bytów)
after World War II and city walls (as at Chełmno and Toruń), and
founded numerous churches.
Machicolation
Gate
The Florian Gate in Krakow (see p140),

a surviving city watchtower with Gothic The imposing bulk of the Upper Castle, part of the Malbork
fortifications, dates from the 13th to Castle complex
15th centuries.
Later Polish Architecture

Buildings dating from the Baroque era are quite a common
sight in Polish towns and cities. Many distinctive 19th-century
residences and architectural ensembles are also noteworthy,
as in Łódź. Around 1900, at a period coinciding with that of Art
Nouveau, attempts to build in a Polish national style produced
particularly felicitous results. Folk architecture is another area of
great interest. The best way to explore it is to visit the skansens
(open-air museums) which exist in each region of the country. Baroque cartouche with the
emblem of Poland
Baroque Architecture High gable framed by volutes

In the first half of the 17th century,
architects of Italian descent started
to introduce the early Baroque style Pediment decorated
to Poland. Nobles built imposing with coat of arms
residences, chief among them
Krzyżtopór Castle in Ujazd (see
pp50–51 and p158), in the Mannerist
style, and the fortified early Baroque
palace in Łańcut (see pp178–9).
Italian architects were also
commissioned to design the Royal
Palace in Warsaw, the country’s new
capital. The destruction wrought
during the Polish-Swedish war was
followed by a period of building in
the late Baroque style. In Warsaw,
the renowned Dutch architect
Tylman van Gameren designed
a large number of buildings,
alongside Italian architects. During
the rule of the Saxon kings in
Poland, architects from Dresden
designed many new buildings in
Warsaw, as well as palaces like the
one at Białystok (see p294). Edena House in Gdańsk Kodeń Church, with its broken
is a fine example of the façade, is typical of the late
Mannerist style. Baroque period.
Bay window with a

Steep broken roof decorative gable
This country house in Koszuty (see p217)

is a typical example of an aristocrat’s Porch in front of Corner turrets
country seat in the Baroque style. main entrance
Neo-Classicism Dome set on a Neo-Classical

tambour in the exact portico
Neo-Classicism appeared in Poland after the rule
centre of the building
of Stanisław August Poniatowski, the country’s
last king. The Royal Palace and Łazienki Palace in
Warsaw were built in the Neo-Classical style, as
were many others including those at Lubostroń
and Śmiełów. Features included landscaped
gardens in the English manner.
Lubostroń Palace (see p227) is a fine example

of Palladianism, a refined Neo-Classical style
The town hall in Łowicz is an example of imitating the work of the Italian Renaissance
small-town public buildings in the Neo- architect Andrea Palladio – in this case, his
Classical style of the early 19th century. Villa Rotonda at Vicenza.
Historicism
and Modernism
The second half of the 19th
century saw a proliferation of
Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance
and Neo-Baroque buildings. In
the 1880s there was a movement
towards creating an architecture
in the Polish national style,
which gave rise to some very
picturesque structures. Art
Nouveau was short-lived in The wooden chapel at The Warsaw School of
Poland, although it did leave a Jaszczurówka is an example Economics combines
number of attractive buildings, of a building in the Polish modern features and
primarily in Łódź. national style. traditional elements.
Traditional Architecture
Fine examples of wooden architecture can be found
today at most skansens. Log cabins, often with thatched
roofs, can still be seen in many villages in Poland.
Painted interior of a peasant dwelling Beehive in Windmill at the skansen (open-air museum)
in Zalipie human form in Wdzydze Kiszewskie
The Literature of Poland prominent poet of the time

was Jan Kochanowski (1530–
Polish literature has always been inextricably linked to the 84), who wrote the first Polish
historical development of the country, as the political tragedy, entitled The Dismissal
situation, particularly over the last two centuries, has not of the Greek Envoys (Odprawa
posłów greckich). He was also
always favoured freedom of speech. Many writers were
the author of the humorous
forced to emigrate, while those who remained were often Trifles (Fraszki) and the
obliged to publish their works in other countries. Poland sorrowful Laments (Treny),
boasts four winners of the Nobel Prize for Literature: a lament in the form of a
Henryk Sienkiewicz, Władysław S. Reymont, Czesław cycle of 19 poems. Other
Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska. notable figures among
Poland’s early poets are
Mikołaj Sęp Szarzyński
(1550–81) and Szymon
The Middle Ages Szymonowic (1558–1629).
Polish writing originates in the The ancient Sarmatian
11th century. The earliest culture had a great influence
works were in Latin, often on Polish Baroque literature.
written by people from The greatest works of the
other regions who copied period are by Jan Chryzostom
hagiographies and holy Pasek (1636–1701), who wrote
chronicles. The oldest Polish highly colourful accounts both
chronicle, by the Benedictine of great historical events and
monk Gall Anonim, dates from of the everyday life of the
the beginning of the 12th Polish nobility in the reign
century. Native Polish writers of Jan III Sobieski.
soon appeared, and Polish
literature expanded into all the
literary forms known in Europe Jan Kochanowski writing Treny, a lament
at the time. The first work in for his daughter’s death
the Polish language was
written in the second half of
Renaissance
the 13th century. The earliest
religious song in Polish, The
and Baroque
Mother of God (Bogurodzica), The Renaissance is regarded
was probably written at the as the Golden Age of Polish
end of the 13th century, literature, when both prose
although it is not found in and poetry flourished. Mikołaj
manuscript until the 15th Rej (1505–69), the first
century. The Polish Holy significant writer in the Polish
Cross Sermons (Kazania language, is generally Romantic poet Adam Mickiewicz by
świętokrzyskie) date from regarded as the father of Walenty Wańkowicz
around 1450. Polish literature. The most
The Enlightenment
Polish Cinema and the 19th Century
The first Polish feature film was made as early as 1902, but it was The Enlightenment, and
not until after World War II that Polish film-makers achieved particularly the reign of the
international renown. The best-known Polish film directors include last king of Poland, Stanisław
Andrzej Wajda, whose Man of Iron won the Palme d’Or at the 1981 August Poniatowski, was an
Cannes Film Festival, Krzysztof Zanussi, Krzysztof Kieślowski important period in the
(Decalogue, Three Colours – Blue/White/Red) and Roman Polański development of Polish
(Chinatown), who has literature. The first Polish novel,
spent many years
The Adventures of Mikołaj
making films in the
USA and France.
Doświadczyński (Mikołaja
Doświadczyńskiego przypadki),
was written by Bishop Ignacy
Krasicki (1735–1801), a moralist
Scene from Jerzy Hoffman’s and satirical poet. Polish
film Colonel Wolodyjowski Romantic poetry played an
important role in keeping
nationalist sentiment alive. associated with the artistic

The outstanding writers of community of Krakow,
that time, Adam Mickiewicz, began to emerge. A key
Juliusz Słowacki and Zygmunt role in this was played by
Krasiński, wrote outside Stanisław Wyspiański (1869–
Poland. To this day, their work 1907), author of the Symbolist
forms the canon of patriotic play The Wedding (Wesele),
literature, whose jewel in the which was made into a film
crown is Mickiewicz’s Pan by Andrzej Wajda 70 years
Tadeusz, which is both a later. Also influential in
nostalgic evocation of the Young Poland was a
vanishing traditions of the Bohemian group surrounding
nobility and a vision of the Stanisław Przybyszewski, a
emergence of more modern friend of Henrik Ibsen and
social attitudes. Also notable Edvard Munch.
at this time was the Another Nobel laureate
comedy writer Aleksander was Władysław Reymont
Fredro, whose works (1865–1925), who wrote
include Revenge society novels. He was
(Zemsta) and Husband awarded the Nobel Wisława Szymborska receiving the
and Wife (Mąż i Żona). Prize in 1924 for Nobel Prize for Literature
Another writer The Peasants
who holds a (Chłopi), which from abroad for political
prominent place describes the reasons. Stanisław Lem (1921–
in the history of lives of the 2006) wrote philosophical
Polish Romantic inhabitants of science fiction, which has
literature is a village near been translated into many
Cyprian Kamil Łowicz. Between languages. His Solaris was
Norwid, the wars, avant- made into a film twice – in
regarded as the garde writers 1972 by Andrei Tarkovsky and
precursor of such as in 2002 by Steven Soderbergh.
Modernism. Eliza Stanisław Tadeusz Różewicz (1921–
Orzeszkowa (1840– Ignacy 2014), also well known as a
Monument to Aleksander
1910) and Bolesław Witkiewicz poet, and Sławomir Mrożek
Prus (1847–1912) are Fredro in Wrocław (called Witkacy, (1930–2013) were prominent
the principal figures 1885–1939), playwrights. Hanna Krall
in the next phase of the Bruno Schulz (1893–1942) and (b.1935) and Ryszard
development of the Polish Witold Gombrowicz (1904–69) Kapuściński (1932–2007) are
novel. Another major writer came to prominence. known for their documentary
of this time was Henryk Polish literature after World writing. Andrzej Szczypiorski,
Sienkiewicz (1846–1916), best War II spawned many famous who wrote A Mass for Arras
known in Poland for his trilogy writers, several of whom wrote (Msza za miasto Arras) and The
of historical novels describing Beginning (Początek),
events in 17th-century Poland, has also achieved inter-
and The Teutonic Knights national recognition.
(Krzyżacy), which is devoted to Contemporary poetry
the late 14th and early 15th has a special place in
centuries. Outside Poland, Polish literature. Apart
Sienkiewicz is better known for from Tadeusz Różewicz,
Quo Vadis?, which deals with its main exponents are
the beginnings of Christianity Zbigniew Herbert,
and for which he was awarded Ryszard Krynicki and
the Nobel Prize for Literature Stanisław Barańczak.
in 1905. The best illustration of
the achievements of
contemporary Polish
20th- and 21st-Century
writers is the award
Literature of two Nobel Prizes:
From 1900 onwards, Young in 1980 to Czesław
Poland (Młoda Polska), a Miłosz and in 1996 to
modern trend in Polish the Krakow poet
literature particularly Nobel Prize winner Czesław Miłosz Wisława Szymborska.
The Music of Poland

Poland has made a major contribution to the international
music scene, as much through the works of great composers
as through its renowned jazz musicians and colourful folk
music. Polish classical composers such as Fryderyk Chopin
(1810–49), Stanisław Moniuszko (1819–72), Karol
Szymanowski (1882–1937) and Wojciech Kilar (1932–2013)
have often been inspired by folk music, as have modern jazz
and rock musicians. Poland has also given the world such
outstanding musical performers as the tenor Jan Kiepura
and the pianists Artur Rubinstein and Witold Małcużyński.
Fryderyk Chopin in a portrait by
court of Władysław IV. Court Eugène Delacroix
Early Music and religious music flourished
Although they are not widely at that time, and the works of (Straszny dwór), which
known, there is much of interest such composers as Adam evokes the traditions of
in the works of early Polish Jarzębski, Stanisław S. Szarzyński the Polish nobility.
composers. Mikołaj z Radomia, and Marcin Mielczewski are still In the second half of the
a composer of the first half of widely performed by Polish 19th century, the violinist
the 15th century, produced musicians today. Henryk Wieniawski and the
both religious and secular pianist Ignacy Paderewski
works. In the Renaissance, achieved world renown. The
composers such as Wacław of The 19th and 20th latter was also prominent in
Szamotuły and Mikołaj Centuries politics, serving for a time as
Gomółka brought Polish music The most prominent Polish Prime Minister of Poland.
into the European mainstream. composer of the Romantic Before World War I, the
The first Polish opera stage was era was undoubtedly Fryderyk town of Zakopane was a
set up in the 17th century at the Chopin, who composed major centre of Polish culture.
almost exclusively for the It drew not only artists but
piano. Chopin contributed to also composers who sought
Jan Kiepura the establishment of a Polish inspiration from the landscape
(1902–1966) national style in music, and of the Tatra Mountains and the
exerted a great influence on colourful folklore of the
the development of European highland dwellers. Among
piano music. During his short composers associated with
life he composed a large Zakopane is Mieczysław
number of preludes, Karłowicz (1876–1909),
mazurkas, polonaises, noted especially for his
waltzes, études and other symphonies. Karłowicz
pieces. Many of Chopin’s perished tragically in
works contain elements an avalanche in the
of folk music. The Tatras at the young
Chopin Piano age of 33. Another
Competition, held in frequent visitor to
Warsaw, has been a Zakopane was Karol
regular event since Szymanowski, whose
Jan Kiepura achieved 1927, and award- fascination with the
international renown as an winners have gone folk music of the
opera singer. He performed on to become world- region inspired
on the world’s greatest famous pianists. him to compose
stages, and from 1938 was Stanisław a number of
with the Metropolitan Opera Moniuszko is works, including
of New York. He gained regarded as the father the ballet
popularity through his of the Polish national Harnasie.
appearances in operettas opera. His most One of the best-
and musicals, where he famous operas are known modern
performed together with Halka, inspired by composers is
his wife, Marta Eggerth.
highland folklore, Stanisław Krzysztof
and The Haunted House Moniuszko Penderecki (b. 1933),
whose oeuvre includes epic

symphonies, oratorios and
operas. His opera The Devils
of Loudun (Diabły z Loudun)
has been performed all over
the world. Other prominent
composers of international
standing are Andrzej
Panufnik (1914–91), Witold
Lutosławski (1913–94) and
Henryk Górecki (1933–2010),
whose works include the
outstanding Symphony
No. 3, which has topped the
classical music charts for
years. Other major composers Folk band outside the Cloth Hall (Sukiennica) in Krakow
of symphonic music are
Wojciech Kilar (1932–2013) and the Warsaw Jazz Jamboree, sometimes bagpipes or drums
Zbigniew Preisner (b. 1955), first held in 1958, became and basses. Depending on the
both of whom are most widely the world’s biggest jazz festival. region these instruments are
known for their film music. Another renowned festival supplemented by clarinets,
is Jazz on the Oder, which is horns, accordions and
held in Wrocław. occasionally dulcimers.
Many jazz musicians came to The best way of getting to
public recognition in the 1970s know and enjoy Polish folk
and 1980s, among them the music is to attend some of the
pianist and saxophonist concerts traditionally held
Włodzimierz Nahorny, the during the summer months,
saxophonists Zbigniew such as the Kazimierz or
Namysłowski and Janusz Zakopane festivals. Here there is
Muniak, and the pianist a chance to listen to live music
Sławomir Kulpowicz. being played and to watch the
dance groups that perform in
colourful folk costumes.
Folk Music Polish vocal and dance
Polish folk music is unusually groups have brought
colourful. Every region has its worldwide popularity to Polish
The composer and conductor Krzysztof own specific tradition, and the folk music. The Mazowsze
Penderecki music of the Tatra Mountains is group, for example, gives
unique. Folk bands play quite a stage performances that are
basic range of instruments, the inspired by the folk traditions
Jazz main one being the fiddle, and of various regions.
Jazz traditions in Poland go
back to the time of the Second
Republic. After World War II,
jazz was deemed by the
authorities to be “alien to the
working class”, and it was not
until 1956 that jazz could be
performed in public. An
important jazz musician of that
time was the pianist and
composer Krzysztof Komeda
(1931–69), who wrote the
haunting lullaby for Roman
Polański’s film, Rosemary’s Baby.
During the 1960s, other jazz
musicians came to prominence,
including Adam Makowicz,
Tomasz Stańko and Michał
Urbaniak. Jazz clubs opened
throughout the country, and The Warsaw Jazz Jamboree
The Traditional Nobility

The tradition of the Polish nobility was dominated by the idea
of Sarmatism, which was based on the myth that the Polish
aristocracy were descended from a warrior people called the
Sarmatians. Sarmatism was influential in shaping the ideology of
the ruling class, as well as its customs and lifestyle. A Sarmatian
embraced the old order, was patriotic and Catholic, and at the
same time valued freedom and privilege, lived life as a landowner A kulawka was a
and upheld family traditions. Sarmatism played an important part special toasting goblet
in art and literature, particularly memoirs. for drinking “bottoms
up”, as it could only be
set down on its rim.
Turban Headpiece
with heron
feathers
Noblemen’s houses were typically single-storey buildings fronted by

an imposing colonnade. Rooms flanked the central entrance hall.
A Traditional Beverage Kontusz in the style

Mead was a favourite drink worn by ladies
of the Polish aristocracy. It is
made by fermenting wort, a
solution of honey and water
that has been flavoured
with herbs. The most
Wyloty – slit
popular type of mead is
trójniak, in which honey sleeves rolled
makes up one-third of back and over
the total wort. The the shoulder
rarest is półtorak, with
two parts honey and
one part water.
Although mead is no
longer widely drunk, it
is still produced today. Stolnik mead
Coats of Arms
The coats of arms of aristocratic families
in Poland number no more than about
200. They were held in common by
members of clans with different names.
Aristocratic titles were not used at the
time of the Republic (with the exception
of the titles of Lithuanian princes), while
magnate families looked to foreign rulers
for titles. Polish heraldic symbols usually
had their origins in individual symbols;
they were therefore relatively simple and
An election gathering, at which the nobility elected the differed from those of Western Europe.
king, is portrayed here. This was one of the greatest
privileges exercised by the gentry.
Kołpak
Polish National Dress
Żupan
Required attire of the nobility
in the Baroque era, its main
elements were the żupan (a
kind of shirt) and the kontusz
(an outer garment tied with a Cielątkowa
waistband). Headgear took
the form of either a kołpak
(fur hat) or a square-
bottomed rogatywka.
Men wore their hair
short and sported a
moustache, and Łodzia Szreniawa
sometimes a beard.
Coffin portraits of
Wyloty the deceased were
painted in oils on
Kontusz sash metal plates cut
to the shape of
The kontusz was
the cross-section
an outer garment
with cutout sleeves, of a coffin, to which
which were thrown they were attached
over the shoulders. during funerals.
Silk sashes known as kontusze were an

The karabela was a
traditional sword that
indispensable part of a nobleman’s attire.
had a single-sided blade Several yards in length, they were worn
and a highly ornamented wrapped around the waist and tied in a
handle, often with inlaid decorative knot, allowing the tassels to
precious stones. hang downwards.
The Different Religions

of Poland
Although the majority of the Polish population today is
Roman Catholic, in the course of the country’s history its
inhabitants have adhered to a variety of faiths. Besides
Roman Catholics, there have been Orthodox Christians,
Uniates and Jews (most of whom lost their lives in World
War II), and, since the 16th century, Lutheran and Calvinist The Convent of the Old
Protestants. When the Polish borders were redrawn after Believers at Wojnowo is one of
the few places where this
World War II, a large section of the Eastern Orthodox religious group can still be found.
population found itself in Belarus or the Ukraine. At the
same time, the western border moved further westwards,
incorporating many German Protestant churches. The wide
variety of Poland’s ecclesiastical architecture bears witness
to the many cultures and religions that have existed there.
Orthodox Christians today are found mainly in the eastern

parts of the country, where many of their historic churches
still stand.
The Evangelical Reform

Church in Warsaw was
built after the Reformation
and used by the small
group of Calvinist believers
in Poland.
The Basilica of the Holy

Cross and the Birth of the
Holy Mother (Bazylika Krzyża
Świętego i Narodzenia Matki
Boskiej) has the second-tallest
church tower in Poland.
The cemetery at
Kruszyniany, one of the few
Muslim burial grounds in
Poland, is used by people of
Tartar descent.
The ”Church of
Peace” (Kościół Other Denominations
Pokoju) at
Świdnica was one Some of Poland’s historic churches have
of three churches changed denomination over the years –
to be built for instance, when Polish Catholics took
specifically for over disused Protestant churches.
Silesian Protestants Although the original interiors have
after the Thirty generally not survived, the exteriors have
Years’ War, which often been carefully conserved. Some
ended in 1648. religious denominations no longer have
followers in Poland, although their places
of worship remain. An example is the
Mennonite chapel in Gdańsk.
Open-air altar
Old Mennonite chapel in Gdańsk
Pauline
monastery
Judaic
artifacts in
museums are
poignant
vestiges of the
synagogues that were
once so numerous in
Poland. As a result of the
Holocaust and the ensuing
Communist era, there
are few Jews in
Poland today.
Częstochowa Pilgrimage
The Monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa is
the most important Catholic shrine in Poland –
and one of the greatest in the Christian world.
The image of Our Lady of Częstochowa, also The picturesque wooden churches of the
known as the Black Madonna, draws pilgrims all Ukrainian Uniates, or Greek Catholics, built
year round. The main pilgrimage, which attracts for the Lemk and the Boyk minorities, survive
hundreds of thousands of believers from Poland in the Carpathian Mountains. Their
and beyond, is held in the meadows at the foot congregations were resettled in other areas
of the monastery on 15 August each year. during Operation Vistula after World War II.
POLAND THROUGH
THE YEAR
Tourists tend to visit Poland in the summer, autumn. The best way of spending winter
between June and September. During that in Poland is skiing in the mountains. As the
period, the most popular tourist spots are majority of Poles are Catholics, traditional
crowded, and a variety of open-air events, Catholic feast days are the most important
from street theatre festivals to re-enactments holidays. The celebrations that take place
of medieval tournaments, take place at Christmas, Easter and Corpus Christi, as
throughout the country. The main music well as other local church festivals, are
and drama festivals are held in spring and interesting spectacles for tourists.
villages in Kurpie and

Spring Małopolska – in particular
The official beginning of spring, Rabka, Lipnica Murowana
21 March, is an unofficial day of and Tokarnia. During Holy
truancy among young people Week (the week leading up
in Poland. The tourist season to Easter), mystery plays are
begins with the first warm performed in churches around
days of spring. the country. The oldest and
best-known spectacle is
March Chwalebne Misterium Pańskie,
Topienie Marzanny (23 Mar). a passion play which has
This is the day when, in many been performed in Kalwaria
areas of the country, children Zebrzydowska (see p167)
throw small dolls – symbolizing since the 17th century. On
winter – into rivers. Holy Saturday, Easter food
The International Poster is taken to church in baskets Blessing baskets of food on Holy Saturday
Biennial (even-numbered years), and blessed. Visits are also in a church in Lublin
Warsaw. made to symbolic sepulchres
Festival of Stage Songs, in churches. Festival of Theatre Schools,
Wrocław. Polish and inter- Easter Sunday is the most Łódź. Performances are held
national performers take part in important Catholic holiday, in the town’s major theatres,
this festival celebrating the art when the grandest mass is and there are also panel
of acting, stage performance held to mark the Resurrection. discussions and workshops.
and song interpretation. Easter Monday (Śmigus-dyngus)
is marked by the custom of May
April people throwing water over International Labour Day
Palm Sunday (the Sunday one another. (1 May).
before Easter) is the day when Paka Cabaret Review, Krakow. 3 May The most important
“palms” are blessed in the A varied programme attracts public holiday, marking the
churches. The most colourful large audiences to this festival adoption of the first Polish
celebrations take place in of cabaret art. constitution of 1791 (see p53).
Chamber Music Days (first
2 weeks in May), Łańcut. This
is an international event
attracting world-class talent,
such as the Italian soprano
Katia Ricciarelli.
International Book Fair (last
2 weeks in May), Warsaw. One
of the largest events of its kind
in Europe.
Kontakt Theatre Festival
(last 2 weeks in May), Toruń.
Jazz on the Oder, Wrocław.
Renowned jazz festival.
Short Film Festival, Krakow.
The oldest film festival in
Passion play in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska the country.
POLAND THROUGH THE YEAR 39
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Hours
12
Sunny days
9
The period from May
to September has the
6 greatest number of
days of sunshine. April
3 and September are
often also sunny, while
0 December has the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec least sunshine.
Festival of Folk Bands and

Summer Singers (late Jun), Kazimierz
From the end of June to the Dolny.
beginning of September, open- Jewish Culture Festival (Jun/
air events are held all over the Jul), Krakow.
country. Theatrical life in the
towns and cities, by contrast, July
tends to slow down. Most open- Festival of Film Stars,
air events are held in tourist areas. Międzyzdroje.
Fireworks Festival, Ustka.
Viking Festival, Wolin. Viking
battles. Most of the boats arrive
from Scandinavia.
International Street Theatre Street performers at the Dominican Fair
Festival (mid-Jul), Jelenia in Gdańsk
Góra. There is also street
theatre in Jedlnia Zdrój, Dominican Fair (first 2 weeks
Szczawno Zdrój and Wałbrzych in Aug), Gdańsk.
in Lower Silesia, as well as in Chopin Festival (second week
the cities of Gdańsk, Toruń, in Aug), Duszniki Zdrój.
Krakow and Warsaw. FAMA (Aug), Świnoujście.
International Organ Festival Student arts festival.
(mid-Jul), Kamień Pomorski. Złota Tarka Traditional Jazz
Singing Poetry Festival (mid- Festival (mid-Aug), Iława.
Jul), Olsztyn Castle. Feast of the Assumption
Piknik Country (end of Jul), (15 Aug). This is a religious
Mrągowo. International country holiday, but it is also the day
Corpus Christi procession music festival. on which Poles commemorate
in Spicimierz their victory over the Bolsheviks
August in 1920.
June Beskid Culture Week (early International Song Festival
Festival of Polish Song (early Aug), Beskid region. (late Aug), Sopot.
Jun), Opole.
Borderlands Theatre Festival
(first week in Jun), Cieszyn.
Corpus Christi (variable).
Solemn processions are held
throughout the country.
Midsummer’s Night (23 Jun).
Fishermen’s Sea Pilgrimage
(29 Jun). Decorated fishing
boats sail into the port of
Puck across the bay.
Mozart Festival (late Jun–early
Jul), Warsaw.
Malta – International Theatre
Festival (late Jun), Poznań.
Summer Film Festival (late
Jun), Łagów. Fishermen’s sea pilgrimage in the bay of Puck
Average Precipitation
MM Inches
80 3
60 2½ Rainfall and snow

Although autumn
40 1½ showers are the
most unpleasant,
20 ¾ the heaviest rainfall
occurs in summer.
0 0 Heavy snow is usual
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in winter.
Jazz Jamboree, Warsaw. One of

Autumn Europe’s major jazz festivals.
Fine weather continues in “Etiuda” International Film
Poland to the end of October. Festival (early Nov), Krakow.
Autumn comes soonest in Wrocław International Guitar
Pomerania, Warmia and Mazuria, Festival, Wrocław.
as well as Suwalszczyna. The Independence Day (11 Nov).
transition from September to The biggest ceremonies in
October – when fallen leaves honour of Polish independence
create a riot of colour – is in 1918 take place in Warsaw.
known as the “golden Polish St Martin’s Day (11 Nov). In
autumn”. It is also a time when Wielkopolska and Eastern
major cultural events take place, Pomerania people cook a
as well as the beginning of the goose and bake pretzels and
new academic year. croissants. There are major
ceremonies in Poznań, where
September Programme for the Polish Feature Film St Martin is the patron saint.
Festival of Polish Piano Music Festival
(early Sep), Słupsk.
Warsaw Autumn (mid-Sep), October Winter
Warsaw. Contemporary music. Konfrontacje Theatre Festival, The first snow can fall as
Wratislavia Cantans (early Sep), Lublin. early as November, although
Wrocław. Oratorio and cantata International Festival of snowless winters are becoming
festival. Alternative Theatre, Krakow. more common. Subzero
Festival of Science (last 2 weeks Lemk Cultural Festival, Gorzów temperatures and hard frosts
in Sep), Warsaw. Wielkopolski. are not unusual. The coldest
Days of Julian Tuwim, Łódź. Festival of Student Song, part of the country is
Various events, including poetry Krakow. Performances by the Suwalszczyna, in the
readings. best student vocalists and northeast corner.
Archaeology gala, Biskupin. accompanists.
Warsaw Film Festival, Warsaw. December
Festival of Early Music (late International Festival of
Oct). An international festival Films for Children and Youth,
with venues in Warsaw, Krakow Poznań. This festival first took
and other cities. place in 1969.
Polish Feature Film Festival
(end Oct). Gdynia.
Głogów Jazz Meeting (late
Oct). Głogów.
Lithuanian All Saints’ Day,
Puńsk. Poetry and music in
memory of the dead.
November
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov). People
visit the graves of their relatives
and light candles there.
All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival, Candles lit at a cemetery on
Inauguration of the academic year Krakow. All Saints’ Day
POLAND THROUGH THE YEAR 41
Average Monthly Temperature

°C °F
30 86
20 68 Temperatures
Temperatures are highest
10 50 in the summer, when
they can exceed 30° C
0 32 (86° F). In winter,
temperatures can fall
-10 24
below zero (32° F),
-20 14 although this is usually
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec short-lived.
Barbórka (4 Dec). The day of

Saint Barbara, traditionally the
patron saint of miners, is widely
celebrated in the mining
regions of Poland (Silesia and
Lesser Poland). Parades by the
miners’ orchestras are followed
by parties, concerts and balls.
Christmas Crib Competitions
(first week in Dec), Krakow. The
market square is invaded by
children and adults presenting
their handmade cribs.
Christmas Eve (24 Dec). The
beginning of Christmas is
marked with a meat-free
dinner and midnight mass.
Christmas (25 and 26 Dec). Cribs being brought to Krakow’s Christmas Crib Competitions
Public holidays, with masses
held in all churches. year marks the beginning of February
New Year’s Eve (31 Dec). a carnival and the opening Feast of St Mary Gromniczna
Throughout Poland, people of a season of balls. (2 Feb). Wax candles known as
see in the New Year at balls Epiphany (6 Jan). Colourful gromnice are lit in churches.
and parties, and at various parades and Nativity plays End of Carnival The last
celebrations in the main take place on the streets of Thursday before Lent is marked
squares of most towns. numerous Polish cities. The by eating doughnuts or other
biggest event is held in the fried delicacies known as
January capital, Warsaw. faworki. Splendid balls, concerts
New Year (1 Jan). Public Orthodox Church Music and shows are put on
holiday. The first day of the Festival (mid-Jan), Krakow. throughout the country to mark
the last Saturday of the carnival.
International Festival of Sea
Shanties, Krakow.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Epiphany (6 Jan)
Easter Monday (variable)
May Day (1 May)
Constitution Day (3 May)
Corpus Christi (variable)
Feast of the Assumption
(15 Aug)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Independence Day (11 Nov)
Christmas (25 and 26 Dec)
Winter cityscape, Gdańsk
INTRODUCING POLAND 43
THE HISTORY OF
POLAND
Poland’s borders have changed almost continuously with the course of
history. The origins of the Polish nation go back to the 10th century, when
Slav tribes living in the area of Gniezno united together under the Piast
dynasty, which then ruled Poland until 1370.
Mieszko I, the first historic prince of this and military weakness led to its
line, converted to Christianity in 966, partitioning by Russia, Prussia and Austria.
bringing his kingdom into Christian In 1795 Poland was wiped off the map of
Europe. The Piast dynasty ruled Poland Europe for more than 100 years. Attempts
with variable fortune and embroiled the to wrest independence by insurrection
nation in domestic quarrels for 150 years. were unsuccessful, and Poland did not
After this dynasty died out, the great regain its sovereignty until 1918. The
Lithuanian prince Jagiełło took the Polish arduous process of rebuilding and uniting
throne and founded a new dynasty. The the nation was still incomplete when, at
treaty with Lithuania signed at Krewo in the outbreak of World War II, a six-year
1385 initiated the long process of period of German and Soviet occupation
consolidation between these nations, began. The price that Poland paid was very
culminating in 1569 with the signing of the high: millions were murdered, including
Union of Lublin. In the 15th century the virtually its entire Jewish population. The
Jagiellonians achieved many military country suffered devastation and there
successes, forming the powerful Republic were huge territorial losses, which were
of Two Nations (Rzeczpospolita Obojga only partly compensated by the Allies’
Narodów). After the Jagiellonian dynasty decision to move the border westwards.
died out in 1572, the authorities After the war, Poland was subjugated by
introduced elective kings, with the nobility the Soviet Union and did not become a
having the right to vote. Poland’s political fully democratic nation until 1989.
Map of the Republic of Two Nations (Rzeczpospolita Obojga Narodów) in the 17th century
Stanisław August Poniatowski, the last king of Poland
Poland under the Piast Dynasty

During the 6th century AD, Slav tribes began migrating from
the east to what is today Polish territory. The Vistulanians
(Wiślanie) settled around Krakow, and the Poles (Polanie)
around Gniezno. The Polanie united under the rule of the
Piast dynasty in the 10th century, and the conversion of
Mieszko I (c. 960–92) to Christianity in 966 led to the
formation of the Polish state. After Mieszko, Bolesław the Poland in the Years
1090–1127
Brave (992–1025) acquired significant new territories. Later
Piast rulers reigned with variable fortune. On the death of Polish territory
Bolesław the Wry-Mouthed (1107–38), the nation was divided

into districts, not to be reunified until the reign of Władysław
the Elbow-High (1306–33). The country flourished under the
rule of his son, Kazimierz the Great (1333–70).
Bishop Stanisław
of Szczepanów
Prayer at the grave

of St Wojciech
The Czech bishop
Wojciech, who was
martyred while on a
mission to Prussia in
997, was the first
Polish saint.
Tomb of Henry IV
The Silesian prince Henry
IV, the Good (Henryk IV
Probus, 1288–90) tried
to unite Poland but Martyrdom of
died, probably by St Stanisław
poisoning. His tomb
is a fine example of An embroidery of 1504 from
early 14th-century the chasuble in Kmita depicts
Gothic sculpture. the murder of Bishop Stani-
sław of Szczepanów in 1079.
997 Martyrdom of 1000 Congress at Gniezno; convocation 1124–1128 Bolesław the

Bishop Wojciech of the Polish church metropolis Wry-Mouthed initiates the
while on a mission conversion of Western
1025 Coronation of Bolesław
to Prussia Pomerania to Christianity
the Brave, first king of Poland
950 1000 1050 1100 1150
1079 Martyrdom of 1138 Beginning

966 Adoption Bishop Stanisław of the division
of Christianity of Szczepanów of Poland
Coin minted in the reign

of Bolesław the Brave
THE HISTORY OF POLAND 45
Vistulanian Plate
This Romanesque Vestiges of the Piast
floor laid with Dynasty
plaster c.1170,
preserved in the The Piast dynasty witnessed the
collegiate church development of Romanesque
in Wiślica, depicts and early Gothic architecture.
a scene of Romanesque churches have
adoration. survived in Tum (see p235),
Czerwińsk (see p120) and Tyniec
(see p151). The abbeys in Sulejów,
Wąchock (see p158) and
Koprzywnica date from the 13th
century. Some of the Gothic
castles of Kazimierz the Great
can be seen in the Jura region –
for example at Będzin, Olsztyn
and Bobolice (see pp164–5).
Bolesław
the Bold
Kazimierz the Great

This 14th-century sculpture
from the collection in the
Collegium Maius in Krakow
depicts Kazimierz the Great, The Crypt of St Leonard is a
who “found Poland of vestige of the Romanesque
wood, and left it in stone”. cathedral at Wawel Royal Castle
in Krakow (see pp144–5).
Founding Document of The castle at Będzin is the

the Krakovian Academy best preserved of all the Gothic
Founded in 1364, the Krakovian castles built by Kazimierz the
Academy was the second university Great (see p211).
(after Prague) to be established in
Central Europe.
1241 Defeat at 1320 Coronation of 1340–1366

the Battle of Władysław the Kazimierz the Great
Legnica against Elbow-High and the conquers western
the Mongols unification of the Ruthenia (Ruś
Polish state Halicko-Wołyńska)
1200 1250 1300 1350
1226 Konrad
1370 Louis of
Mazowiecki invites
Hungary (Ludwik
the Teutonic Order
Węgierski) seizes
to Masovia The initials of Kazimierz the Polish crown
the Great on the door of
Coronation sword of Bolesław the Brave Wawel Cathedral
Poland under the Jagiellonians

The treaty signed in Krewo in 1385 uniting the Polish and the
Lithuanian states proved to be a decisive moment in the
history of Central Europe. The Grand Duke of Lithuania
Władysław Jagiełło received the hand of Jadwiga, the young
and beautiful ruler of Poland, and was crowned king of Poland.
Jadwiga died in 1399, but the relationship between Poland
and Lithuania established by the Union of Krewo was gradually Republic of Two Nations in
strengthened. Jagiełło founded the Jagiellonian dynasty and, the Years 1386–1434
by the reign of Kazimierz the Jagiellonian in the mid-15th Poland Lithuania
century, Poland and Lithuania had come to be the greatest Feudal territories
power in Central Europe. The Jagiellonian kings also ruled the
Czech nations and Hungary.
Second Treaty
of Toruń
Signed in 1466, the
treaty concluded the
Thirteen Years’ War
with the Teutonic
Knights, who lost
nearly half their
territory to Poland.
Ulryk von Jungingen,

Grand Master of the
Teutonic Order
Plate showing Filippo

Chapel at Lublin Castle Buonaccorsi
Ruthenian paintings in the This sculpture commemorating
Catholic Chapel of the Holy Trinity the Italian humanist and educator
founded by Władysław Jagiełło of the young royals, who died in
reflect the multicultural nature 1496, is by the eminent late
of the Polish-Lithuanian state. m4edieval sculptor Veit Stoss.
1399 Death of 1411 First Treaty of 1440 Formation of the

Queen Jadwiga Toruń, establishing Prussian Union, in
peace with the 1413 Treaty of Horodło,
opposition to the
Teutonic Knights strengthening the bond Teutonic Knights
between Poland and Lithuania
1385 1400 1415 1430
1410 Battle of 1415 At the Council of Constanz,

1385 Union of Krewo joins
Grunwald Paweł Włodkowic proclaims the theory
Poland and Lithuania
of the sovereignty of all Christian and
Queen Jadwiga’s non-Christian peoples
sceptre
Virgin from
Krużlowa Gothic Architecture
This statue, of
Many late Gothic buildings have
around 1400, is a
survived in Poland. Among the
masterpiece of late
most important are the Collegium
Gothic sculpture.
Maius and the Barbican in Krakow
(see p139). After the formation of
Royal Prussia, many parish
Gothic Pax churches were built in the towns
The skill of medieval lying within its territory, the
goldsmiths can be largest being the Church of St
seen in this finely Mary in Gdańsk (see pp244–5).
crafted cross.
Witold, the Grand Duke

of Lithuania
The imposing twin-tower

façade of the Church of St
Mary reflects Krakow’s former
status (see p138).
Battle of Grunwald
Deposition from
In one of the greatest medieval battles, on Chomranice
15 July 1410, Poland and Lithuania, with This Deposition of
their Ruthenian allies, routed the armies of Christ (c.1450) is
the Teutonic Knights, who never regained held to be the
their former might. The scene is depicted apogee of Polish
in this painting by Jan Matejko of 1878. Gothic art.
1454 Act incorpor- 1473 Birth of 1496 Piotrkowski

ating Prussia into the Nicolaus Statute restricts the
Crown of Poland Copernicus rights of commoners
to acquire land
1445 1460 1475 1490
1444 Władysław of Varna 1466 Second 1492 Death of Kazimierz

dies at the Battle of Varna, Treaty of Toruń the Jagiellonian. First
fought against the Turks general Sejm (parliament)
Figure of St John by Veit Stoss, from the

altar in the Church of St Mary, Krakow
Poland’s Golden Age

In the 16th century the Republic of Two Nations
(Rzeczpospolita) formed by Poland and Lithuania was one
of the largest European powers. In the western territories
of the Polish Crown there was peace, relative prosperity
and – rare elsewhere – religious tolerance. Under the
Jagiellonians, and later under the first elective kings,
art, education and the economy flourished. In the Republic of Two Nations,
Early 16th Century
political sphere there was a significant movement
to improve the Republic and institute reforms. Poland Lithuania
The so-called real union between Poland and Lithuania Feudal territories
was concluded in Lublin in 1569. At that time, in terms of
language, nationality and religion, the Republic was the
most diverse state in Europe. Nobleman
Representatives of who brought the
the peoples of the news of the
East and West Chancellor’s death
Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543)

This Polish astronomer and humanist showed
that the Earth revolves around the Sun.
Opatów Lament
The Renaissance tomb of Chancellor
Krzysztof Szydłowiecki in the collegiate
Codex Behem
church at Opatów features a bas-relief
This illuminated
manuscript of 1505
sculpture depicting the mourning of the
by Baltazar Behem, a deceased, installed after 1532 (see p158).
writer and notary of Around the table are friends of the
Krakow, lists the city’s Chancellor, humanists attached to
privileges, statutes the royal court and foreigners.
and the guild laws.
1505 Adoption 1520 Adoption 1525 Secularization of the defeated 1543

of the constitu- of the Statute Teutonic Order. The elector Albrecht Copernicus’s
tional law of of Toruń, Hohenzollern, Duke of Prussia, makes famous treatise
Nihil Novi introducing an oath of fealty to the Polish king, is published
serfdom Zygmunt the Old, in Krakow
1500 1520 1540
1521 The Polish army occupies

1518 Bona Sforza
Teutonic Prussia in the final war
arrives in Poland and
with the Teutonic Knights
marries Zygmunt the
Old (Zygmunt Stary)
Renaissance oven tile
16th-Century
Tomb of Stefan Batory Architecture
Despite his short
reign, Batory was The first instance of the
one of the most Renaissance style in Poland
illustrious of the dates from 1502. Often imitated
elective monarchs. but never equalled, the most
splendid early Renaissance
building was the Zygmunt
Union of Lublin Chapel in Wawel Cathedral
The federation of Poland and (see p149), completed in 1533.
Lithuania established under the
Union of Lublin in 1569 provided
for a joint Sejm (parliament), king
and foreign policy. However, each
country had its own government,
army, treasury and judiciary.
Zygmunt Vice-chancellor
the Old Piotr Tomicki
This castle in Książ Wielki, built

by Santi Gucci between 1585
and 1589, is the most splendid
example of Italian Mannerism
in Poland.
Jan Tarnowski, Dogs, symbolizing

the deceased’s the loyalty of the
son-in-law dead man’s friends
Tapestry with Satyrs The collegiate church in

The collection of tapestries at Pułtusk (see p119), built c.1560
Wawel Royal Castle (see p146) by the architect Gianbattista of
comprises over 160 splendid Venice, has barrel vaulting.
pieces. They were brought to
the castle in the 16th century.
1557 Outbreak 1563 Split of Polish Calvinists and 1587 Zygmunt III
of the war with isolation of the Polish Brethren, an Vasa is elected king
Russia over extreme group of Reformationists of Poland
Livonia Grotesque mask
1564 Jesuits arrive from Baranów
in Poland Sandomierski
1560 1580 1600
1561 Secularization 1596 The capital is

of the Livonian 1569 Union 1579 The capture of Połock moved from Krakow
Branch of the of Lublin marks the start of Stefan to Warsaw
Teutonic Order Batory’s victory in the war
and incorporation against Russia
of Livonia
The “Silver” 17th Century

The 17th century was dominated by the wars that the Republic
of Two Nations waged against the Swedes, Russia and the
Ottoman Empire. An uprising in Ukraine in 1648 marked the
beginning of a series of catastrophes. In 1655 the Republic of
Two Nations was invaded and largely occupied by the Swedes.
Although it was short-lived, the Swedish occupation – known as
the Deluge (Potop) – wreaked havoc. The final triumph of the Republic of Two Nations in
Republic of Two Nations was the victory against the Turks at the Years 1582–1648
the Battle of Vienna in 1683, during the reign of Jan III Sobieski. Poland Lithuania
The country eventually emerged from the wars without major Feudal territories
territorial losses, but it was considerably weakened and its
dominance was over.
A rebus on the main gate
spells out “Krzyżtopór”
with a cross (Krzyż) and
an axe (Topór).
Siege of Jasna Góra, the

Luminous Mountain
The run of Swedish
victories ended in 1655
with the heroic Polish
defence of the Pauline
Monastery in Częstochowa.
Moat
Nobleman in a Dance
with Death
The figure of a
common Polish
yeoman in
traditional dress
decorates the
Chapel of the
Oleśnicki family
in Tarłów.
Krzyżtopór Castle
In the first half of the 17th century, dazzling residences were
built in the Republic of Two Nations. The most splendid was
the eccentric castle in Ujazd. Built at great expense, it stood
for barely 11 years. It was demolished in 1655 by the Swedes
and remains in ruins to this day (see p158).
1604 First Moscow 1606 Zebrzydowski 1629 Truce 1634 Władysław IV’s 1655
expedition of the Rebellion with Sweden victory over Russia, Beginning
false Demetrius in Altmark and peace in of the Swedish
Polanów Deluge
1600 1620 1640

1601 Outbreak 1648 Death of
of Polish– 1620 Battle against Władysław IV, start
Swedish War the Turks and of the Chmielnicki
Tatars at Cecora 1632 Death of Uprising in
Zygmunt III Vasa the Ukraine
Zygmunt III Vasa
Baroque Monstrance
This monstrance, at Pelplin Cathedral 17th-Century
in Pomerania, dates from 1646. Architecture
Many magnificent buildings in
Shrine of St Stanisław the late Mannerist and early
Relics of the patron saint Baroque styles were erected in
of Poland are preserved the first half of the 17th century,
in a shrine that was during the reign of the Vasa
installed in Wawel dynasty. After the destruction
Cathedral wrought by the Swedish Deluge,
between 1626 there was no further artistic
and 1629. flowering until the reign of Jan III
Sobieski. The early Baroque castles
– for example, the Royal Castle in
Warsaw (see pp70–71) – as well as
numerous churches, of which the
The cloister walls most impressive are the Jesuit
around the courtyard are churches in Krakow, Warsaw and
painted with real and Poznań, are all splendid examples
legendary ancestors of of the architecture of this period.
the Ossoliński family.
Bastions
The Bishops’ Palace in Kielce

(see p156) is the best-preserved
early Baroque residence.
Husaria
The Royal Chapel (see p245) in
Charges by the famous
Gdańsk, commissioned by Jan III
Hussars, the best heavy cavalry
Sobieski, was built by Tylman van
in Europe, decided the outcome
Gameren and Andreas Schlüter
of many battles. Their greatest
in the Baroque style.
victory was against the Turks at
the Battle of Vienna (1683).
Pair of
1660 Peace treaty 1667 Turks invade 1686 Signing of
cherubs
signed in Oliwa the southeastern the Perpetual
ends the Polish- borderlands Peace with Russia
Swedish War
1660 1680 1700

1668 1699 Peace
Abdication of 1683 Jan III Sobieski’s of Karłowice
1658 Polish Jan Kazimierz victory over the Turks with Turkey
Brethren exiled at the Battle of Vienna
from Poland
Mannerist window frame
Poland in the 18th Century

In the first half of the 18th century, Poland was ruled by the
Wettin dynasty of Saxony. Polish interests were gradually
subordinated to those of neighbouring powers, and the
election of Stanisław August Poniatowski as king, supported
by the Tsarina Catherine the Great, sealed the nation’s fate.
Attempts to counteract Russian influence came to an end
with the First Partition of Poland in 1772. The efforts of the Republic of Two Nations
patriotic faction and the achievements of the Four-Year Sejm before the Partitions
Poland Lithuania
changed little. The Second Partition followed in 1793, and
when the uprising led by Tadeusz Kościuszko – the final
attempt to save the country – was quashed,
Poland lost its statehood for over 100 years.
Stanisław August
Poniatowski
Rococo Statue
from Lvov
In southeastern
Poland, original
altar statues by
sculptors of the
Lvov School can
still be admired.
Rococo Secretaire
This desk incorporates
a clock cabinet and is
decorated with painted
panels depicting
mythological scenes. Portrait of Maria Leszczyńska
After the Polish king Stanisław
Leszczyński lost the throne, his
daughter Maria settled in Nancy
and married Louis XV of France.
1697 Coronation of 1717 “Dumb Sejm” 1733 Election 1740 Opening

August II, the Strong of August III of Collegium
1704 Coronation of Stanisław 1721 End of Great Nobilium,
Leszczyński, supported by the Northern War Warsaw
king of Sweden
1700 1720 1740

1709 August II, 1733 Stanisław
1700 Outbreak the Strong Leszczyński is
of Great returns to the re-elected king
Northern War throne
Casing of a
grenadier’s cap
August III
This Saxon king 18th-Century
of the Wettin Architecture
dynasty was
an ardent lover During the 18th century – the era
of porcelain. of the late Baroque and Rococo –
His likeness was artists and architects from Saxony
reproduced in joined those who had already
Meissen. come to Poland from Italy. Many
palaces, including Radziwiłł, were
built in Warsaw and the provinces,
such as Białystok (see p294).
Thanks to the patronage of
Tadeusz Kościuszko Stanisław August Poniatowski,
This man fought in the many Neo-Classical buildings
American War of were created, among them
Independence and led Łazienki in Warsaw.
the insurrection against
the Russians in 1794.
Hugo Kołłątaj Prince Józef
Poniatowski
The Palace on the Water (see

pp100–101) in Warsaw was the
royal summer residence.
Stanisław
Małachowski,
Speaker of
the Sejm
Constitution of 3 May
The Constitution of 3 May 1791 was a radical experiment
in democracy and reform – the first such in Europe. It was,
however, soon annulled as a result of the Federation of Hugo Kołłątaj
A leading intellectual of
Targowica and the Russo-Polish war. Jan Matejko’s
the Polish Enlightenment,
painting shows members of the Sejm (parliament)
Kołłątaj collaborated on
marching on Warsaw Cathedral to swear allegiance. the Constitution of 3 May.
1794 Insurrection
1764 Coronation 1773 Convocation 1795 Third
of Stanisław against the Russians Partition of
of National
August Education Coat of arms of Poland
Poniatowski Commission Stanisław August
Poniatowski
1760 1780 1800
1793 Second
1772 First 1788–1792 Partition of
1756 Outbreak
Partition of Deliberations of the Poland
of the Seven-
Poland Four-Year Sejm
Year War 1791 Adoption of the
Constitution of 3 May
Poland under the Partitions

Deprived of its independence, Poland became a territory for
exploitation as though it were a colony. The hopes vested in
Napoleon proved illusory. The transitory Grand Duchy of
Warsaw lasted only eight years. The failure of the successive
November and January insurrections (1830 and 1863) led
to further restrictions by the tsarist rulers: landed property
was confiscated and cultural and educational institutions Republic of Two Nations
dissolved. Many Poles tried to help the country from abroad. under the Partitions
The collapse of the partitioning empires in World War I Russian partition
enabled Poland to regain its independence in 1918. Prussian partition
Austrian partition
Patrol of Insurgents
This painting by Maksymilian Gierymski of around 1873
shows a scene from the January Insurrection. Several
insurgents are patrolling the land.
Beggar waiting Emperor Franz

for alms Josef enjoying the
Henryk Sienkiewicz’s House in Oblęgorek loyalty of his
subjects
The small palace was given to the Nobel laureate
Henryk Sienkiewicz in 1900 to mark the occasion
of 25 years of his work as a writer.
1807 Grand 1830 Outbreak of 1845–1848 1846

Duchy of the November Construction of first Peasants’
Warsaw Insurrection Warsaw–Vienna uprising
established railway line
1795 1820 1845
1797 Formation 1815 Dissolution 1848 Uprising in

of the Polish of Grand Duchy Wielkopolska
Legions in Italy of Warsaw at the (Greater Poland)
Congress of Vienna
Post-uprising
mourning jewellery
Fryderyk Chopin
This genius of a The Great Emigration
composer and
pianist was born In the 30 years following the
in Żelazowa Wola November Insurrection, nearly
and left Poland 20,000 Poles left the country,
forever in 1830. the majority going to France.
An important group of émigrés
gathered around Prince Adam
Czartoryski in Paris. Famous Poles
in exile included the composer
Fryderyk Chopin and poets Adam
Mickiewicz, Zygmunt Krasiński,
Juliusz Słowacki and Cyprian
Stained-glass Window Kamil Norwid.
The stained-glass windows
designed by Stanisław Wyspiański
for the Franciscan Church in Krakow
are among the most beautiful works
of Secessionist art in Poland.
The inhabitants
of Krakow greet
the emperor
Prince Adam Czartoryski, an
exile in Paris, was considered
the uncrowned king of Poland.
Prince Józef Poniatowski

Emperor Franz Josef Enters Krakow Bertel Thorvaldsen
Juliusz Kossak produced a series of paintings to designed this monument
commemorate the emperor’s visit to Krakow in to Prince Józef
1880. The city’s inhabitants received him with Poniatowski, who died
great enthusiasm. in 1813. Poniatowski was
considered a Polish
national hero.
1873 Founding of 1903 Marie Curie 1905 Henryk Sienkiewicz

the Academy of (Maria Skłodowska- receives the Nobel Prize
1861 Founding of Sciences in Krakow Curie) receives the for Literature
the National Sejm Nobel Prize for Physics
in Galicia
1870 1895
1864 Final abolition 1915 Russian
of serfdom troops leave
Warsaw
1863 Start of the January
Insurrection
Secessionist
wall painting
Poland from 1918 to 1945

Poland regained its independence in 1918, but for several
years afterwards battles raged over its borders. In 1920,
independence was again threatened by the Red Army. Despite
domestic conflicts, Poland made considerable economic
progress. The territories of the three areas previously held by
Russia, Austria and Prussia were consolidated. The country’s
brief period of independence ended in 1939 with the German Poland in 1938
and Soviet invasions. Poland was occupied and its population Polish territory
persecuted, terrorized and partially exterminated. About
6 million Poles were killed, including 3 million Polish Jews
(see p166). An underground state operated, with the Home
Volunteers fighting
Army answering to the government in exile. Polish soldiers alongside the soldiers
fought the Germans on all fronts.
Gdynia
Although Poland gained access to the sea, it had
no port. Work on the construction of a port at
Gdynia began in 1922.
Miracle on the Vistula

Interior of the
Silesian Sejm
This was the name given to Marshal Józef
The industrialized Piłsudski’s victory at the Battle of Warsaw
region of Silesia on 13–16 August 1920, which halted the
had its own Soviet march westwards and shattered the
parliament in the Bolshevik hope of a proletarian revolution
interwar years, a sign throughout Europe.
of its importance.
1920 Miracle on the Vistula.

1918 Uprising against Second Silesian uprising 1925 Start of the German–
the Germans in Greater Polish trade war
Poland. Warsaw 1921 Germano-Polish
is liberated from plebiscite in Upper Silesia. 1926 May Coup
German occupation Third Silesian uprising
1915 1920 1925 1930

1922 Murder of 1929 Start of
the president, 1924 Złoty introduced the Great
Gabriel to replace German Mark Depression
1919 Start of the
Narutowicz
first Silesian
uprising Magazine cover featuring the National
Universal Exhibition in Poznań
Józef Piłsudski
Józef Piłsudski led the Warsaw Uprising
legions which were set
On 1 August 1944 the
up in the Austrian sector
underground Home Army
then dispersed. In 1918 he
(Armia Krajowa) launched an
became the first leader
uprising in Warsaw against the
of an independent Poland.
occupying Germans. Its aim was
to liberate the capital before the
arrival of the Red Army. The
Russians were waiting on the
left bank of the river, allowing
the Germans to suppress the
outburst. The uprising lasted
over two months and led to the
complete destruction of the
city as well as the loss of tens
of thousands of lives.
Plaque to the Victims

of Execution
One of many plaques in
Warsaw marking places
of execution during In his film Kanał, the director
World War II. Andrzej Wajda showed the
insurgents struggling through
sewers beneath German-
occupied districts of Warsaw.
Father Ignacy Skorupka

leads soldiers into attack
Bolshevik soldiers
flee the battlefield
Monument to Those Fallen and
Murdered in the East
Hanka Ordonówna This monument honours all the
She was one of the most popular Poles who were killed or deported
actresses between the wars. after the Soviet invasion in 1939.
1938 Poland annexes territory

1935 Death 1936 Start of the
to the west of the River Olza Occupying
of Marshal construction of
1943 Ghetto forces demol-
Piłsudski the Central 1942 Home Army Uprising, ish the statue
Industrial Region formed. Anders’ army Warsaw of Adam
evacuated from USSR Mickiewicz
1935 1940 1945
1944 Polish soldiers take the

1939 Outbreak of World War II.
1940 The Russians murder monastery at Monte Cassino,
German troops enter Poland,
Polish officers who were Italy. Warsaw Uprising. Formation
followed by Soviet forces. The
taken prisoner in Katyń of a pro-Soviet, Communist
Polish army is defeated and the
country occupied government in Lublin
Modern Poland
In 1945 the allies agreed that Poland should be
included in the Soviet zone of influence. The Big Three
(Britain, the USA and the Soviet Union) also decided to
alter Poland’s borders. After rigged elections in 1947,
the Communists took complete control. Despite
successes in rebuilding the country, the socialist
economy proved ineffective. The formation of
Solidarity (Solidarność) in 1980 accelerated the pace
of change, which was completed when Poland
regained its freedom after the 1989 elections.
1968 In March,
conflicts occur
between students
1966 and security forces.
Celebrations The authorities
marking the provoke incidents
millennium of of an anti-Semitic
Christianity and anti-intellectual
in Poland, nature
organized
1945 After the terrible
separately
devastation of the war, the
1955 30,000 delegates by Church
country is hauled out of the ruins
from 114 countries take and State
by the effort of the whole nation
part in the World Festival
1947 Communists falsify
of Youth in Warsaw. This
the results of elections to is the first time that the
the Sejm (parliament) Iron Curtain has been
briefly lifted
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975
1953 Height of the

persecution of the 1958 First International
Catholic Church, trial Jazz Jamboree in
of priests of the Warsaw
metropolitan curia 1968 Polish forces
of Krakow; Cardinal take part in the
Stefan Wyszyński, armed intervention
Primate of Poland, in Czechoslovakia
is arrested
1957
1956 In June, a Premiere
1946 Rigged workers’ revolt in of Kanał,
referendum Poznań is bloodily directed
on abolishing suppressed. In by Andrzej
the Senate, October, after more Wajda, one of
introducing demonstrations by the first films
agricultural students and workers, of the Polish
reforms, Soviet intervention School
nationalizing is threatened.
industry and Władysław Gomułka
the western becomes First 1976
border Secretary of the Demonstrations
Central Committee against price rises,
of the Polish United by workers in
1945 End
Workers’ Party Radom and Ursus,
of World
War II are quashed. The
opposition forms
1970 Bloody suppression of a strike the Workers’
and workers’ demonstrations on the Defence
coast. Edward Gierek becomes First Committee. At the
Secretary of the Central Committee 21st Olympics in
of the Polish United Workers’ Party Montreal, Irena
Kirszenstein-
Szewińska wins
gold for track and
field sports for the
third time
1979 First visit of 2010 A tragic air

John Paul II, the crash kills 96
“Polish Pope”, to his people, including
homeland. Both a President Lech
religious and a Kaczyński and his
political event, it wife; Bronisław
rekindles Polish hopes Komorowski (left)
of regaining freedom elected president
of Poland
2012 Poland and

Ukraine host the
1980 Agreements signed in UEFA Football
Gdańsk on 31 August end the Championship –
strikes and allow the formation Euro 2012
of the first Independent
Autonomous Trades Unions. Lech
1990 Lech Wałęsa elected president of Poland
Wałęsa becomes their leader
2002 Poland formally
1981 Under the 1997 The worst 1999 invited to join EU in 2004
leadership of General flood in a century Poland
Wojciech Jaruzelski, the devastates large joins 2005 Death of
Communist authorities areas of southern NATO John Paul II,
introduce martial law. Poland the “Polish
Solidarity goes Pope”
underground
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015

1990 Official end of the
Polish People’s Republic,
adoption of Leszek
Balcerowicz’s radical 2014
2004
market reforms Canonization
Poland
joins of Pope
1989 At round-table talks, the EU John Paul II
the opposition negotiates
with the authorities about 2000
2007 Poland joins
legalizing Solidarity and Krakow is
the Schengen Area
calling an election, in European
which the “civic society” City of 2005 Lech Kaczyński
then wins a landslide Culture elected president of
victory Poland
1984
Assassination of
Father Jerzy 1997 On a visit to Warsaw, US president Bill
Popiełuszko, Clinton announces that Poland is to join NATO
Solidarity’s pastor
The Rulers of Poland

At the time of its formation in 966, the Polish nation was ruled
by the Piast dynasty. Bolesław the Brave, son of Mieszko I, was
the first king of Poland. During the Period of Disunity from
1138, rulers bore only the title of prince. The first prince to be
crowned king of Poland was Przemysław II. After the death of
Kazimierz the Great, the Polish crown passed to Louis of
Hungary of the Angevin dynasty. The marriage of his daughter
Jadwiga to the Lithuanian duke Jagiełło in 1384 established
the Jagiellonian dynasty. From 1572 the Republic of Two
Nations was ruled by elective kings with no hereditary rights. 1386–1434
Władysław II
The last king was Stanisław August Poniatowski. Jagiełło
1279–1288
1288–1290 Henry IV, the
Leszek the
Good
Black
1290–1291
Przemysław II
1291–1305 Wacław
II of Bohemia (from
1300)
1305–1306
Wacław III of
1079–1102 Władysław Herman 1229–1232 and 1241–1243 Bohemia
Konrad I Mazowiecki
1058–1079 Bolesław II 1333–1370
1202 and 1228–
Kazimierz III,
1229 Władysław III,
1025–1034 Mieszko II the Great
Spindleshanks
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
Piast Dynasty Period of Disunity Jagiellonian
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
1102–1107
1031 Duke Zbigniew 1306–1333
Bezprym and Władysław I,
Bolesław III the Elbow-
1107–1138 High
Bolesław III
1370–1382 Louis of
Hungary
1138–1146
1384–1399
Władysław II, the
Jadwiga
Exile
1434–1444 Władysław III of
1146–1173 Varna
Bolesław IV,
1447–1492 Kazimierz IV,
the Curly
the Jagiellonian
1173–1177 and 1194–
1202 Mieszko III, the Elder 1492–1501 Jan I Olbracht
1177–1194 Kazimierz II,

c.960–992
the Just
Mieszko I
992–1025
Bolesław the 1194–1210 and
Brave (Bolesław 1211–1227 Leszek
Chrobry), the White
crowned 1025
1210–1211 Mieszko the Stumbler
1232–1238 Henry the Bearded
1238–1241 Henry the Pious
1034–1058 1243–1279 Bolesław

Kazimierz the V, the Bashful
Restorer
9–16 December 1922

Gabriel Narutowicz
1548–1572 Zygmunt II August
1926–1939 Ignacy
Mościcki
1648–1668 Jan II
Kazimierz Vasa 1918–1922
Józef Piłsudski,
1674–1696 Jan head of state
III Sobieski
2005–2010 Lech
1704–1709 and Kaczyński
1632–1648
1733–1736 Stanisław
Władysław IV
Leszczyński
Vasa 2010–
1733–1763 Bronisław
August III Komorowski
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000

Dynasty Elective Kings Invasions Presidents
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
1697–1706
1669–1673
and 1709–
Michał
1733 August 1922–1926
Korybut
II, the Strong Stanisław
Wiśniowiecki
Wojciechowski
1947–1956
Bolesław Bierut
1587–1632
Zygmunt III 1989–1990
Vasa Wojciech
Jaruzelski
1995–2005
Aleksander
Kwaśniewski
1576–1586 Stefan Batory
1573–1575 Henry de Valois 1764–1795 Stanisław August

Poniatowski
1506–1548 Zygmunt I, the Elder
1501–1506 Alexander the Jagiellonian 1990–1995 Lech Wałęsa

WARSAW AREA
BY AREA
Warsaw at a Glance 64–65

The Old and New Towns 66–77
The Royal Route 78–87
The City Centre 88–97
Further Afield 98–103
Warsaw Street Finder 104–109
64 WARSAW AREA BY AREA
Warsaw at a Glance
D Z IK
KI
STAW
M
A
UR
Most places of interest are located in the centre of NISKA A
NO
WS
KA
O
Warsaw. This area not only forms the geographical SK
IEG
AL. JANA PAWLA II
KA R MEL IC KA
M IŁ A OW
RT
heart of the city, but is also Warsaw’s largest A
SA
W S
LE T.
DER
municipality. It is made up of seven smaller districts, D
U
ZAMENHOFA
BO
IS
N
KI
A A
Śródmieście being the central one. In the pages that
A
EW
ŁOW
AW
NAL
follow, however, Warsaw is divided into three parts: MO RD E C HA
WA
JA
YSŁ
AN IELE
W IC
ZA
the Old and New Towns, the Royal Route and the
AD
PAWI A ŚW
IĘT O
JE R S K A
.WŁ
City Centre. The most interesting historical features
GEN
of Warsaw are located along the Royal Route (Trakt OGRÓD
KARSIŃSKICH
NO W OL IP K I
Królewski), a series of roads linking the Old Town
(Stare Miasto) and the Royal Castle (Zamek
KA RMELI CKA
AL. JANA PAWLA II
Królewski) with the Water Palace (Łazienki) and
DŁU G A
Wilanów, the palace of Jan III Sobieski, which Ratusz
AL.
stands just outside the city. AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
BI
EL
AŃ
SK
A
PLAC
BANKOWY
SENATORSKA
EL E K TO R AL N A
P LA C
M I RO
WSKI
P TA
SIA
OGRÓD
SASKI
GR Z YBO WSKA
KRÓLEWSKA
ŁK O W S KA
The Old Town Square, surrounded by town houses ZI EL NA
PLAC P R ÓŻ NA
rebuilt after wartime destruction, is one of the most T WA R DA GRZYBOWSKI
PLAC HENRYKA
DÁBROWSKIEGO
beautiful features of Warsaw. It teems with tourists
M AR SZ A
J AS N A
Rondo Świętokrzyska
and local people throughout the year. A statue of ONZ ŚWIĘTO
KRZYS
the Mermaid, symbol of Warsaw, is a prominent KA
feature in the centre of the square. ŚL ISK A

PLAC
SKA
POWSTAŃCÓW
WARSZAWY
A ŁK O W
S IE NK I EW IC
ER
ZA
P L AT T
PLAC
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The Palace of Culture is

SZPITALNA
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OD
still the tallest building in Warszawa

A
Śródmieście
Warsaw, despite the ongoing Centrum
W ID OK
construction of skyscrapers in AL. JEROZ
OL IMSKI
the city. The 30th floor has a E
viewing terrace as well as a
multimedia tourist centre.
CZA
KRU
H O ŻA
A
SK
W
TO
KO
O
M
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KN
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The buildings on the north side of Theatre Square

now house banks and luxury shops, as well as the
little church of St Albert and St Andrzej, which
contains important works of art.
The colourful architecture of Castle Square, with Zygmunt’s Column, in Warsaw’s Old Town
WA R S AW AT A G L A N C E 65
S ANGU
SKA
KON WIKT ORSK A

SZ
KI
M
WÓJTOWSK
ZAKROCZY
A
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KA
SAPIEŻYŃS
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B O N I F R AT
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FRETA
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WA BOLEŚĆ
PLAC STO
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GDA
BU
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The University of Warsaw is the largest and most prestigious

GA
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WĄ A J
J
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DUN centre of higher education in Poland. Its oldest buildings are

ŚWI
PIW
A
ETO
located on Krakowskie Przedmieście.

ER
UL
NA
LL
PO
JAŃ
Cathedral
SCH I
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D
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Royal
LE
IDA
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PLAC
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KO ZI A
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PLAC ZD
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The urn
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the heart of
A
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a
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Chopin, the
MA
eminent Polish
O
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DOBRA
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C ZA C
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died in France
WYB
PE
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in 1849, is built
NI
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KA
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RŻEZ
TOP
W A EW I
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into one of the
A
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BA
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Baroque pillars
RTOSZ
Uniwersytet
W A RE
C KA TA M
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YNA Kopernik
CKA
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the Holy Cross.

KOŚ
WYBR
DOB
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K RU
NOWY
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C H MIEL NA
CZK
LE
F OK S A L
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WSK
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JA
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Warszawa Poniatowskiego
IEG
IE
S MO L NA Powiśle Major sight

O
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AL. Pedestrian street
CH. DE GAULLE’A JEROZ 3 M A JA
OLIMS
K IE
BR
Railway line
AC
AL . 3 M AJ
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KA
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National
SO
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Most K. J.
Museum
W
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Poniatowskiego
KS KO
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KRZYŻY K S IĄ
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The National Museum contains
large collections of Polish art. Among
its treasures is Strange Garden (Dziwny
Ogród) by Józef Mehoffer.
WARSAW AREA BY AREA 67
THE OLD AND NEW TOWNS

The Old Town (Stare Miasto), partially New Town (Nowe Miasto), which became
surrounded by medieval walls, is the oldest a separate urban entity in 1408. The
district in Warsaw. It was founded at the turn reconstruction of the Old Town and New
of the 13th and 14th centuries, growing up Town, almost completely destroyed during
around the castle of the Mazovian princes. the war, was an undertaking on a scale
Its medieval urban layout survives to this unprecedented in the whole of Europe.
day. The pride of the Old Town is the market Today, these two districts are the most
square with its colourful town houses. Also of popular tourist attractions in Warsaw.
major interest are the Cathedral of St John The Old Town pulsates with life until late
and the Royal Castle, which was destroyed by evening. There are many interesting little
German forces in 1944 and rebuilt between streets and an abundance of cafés, good
1971 and 1984. Next to the Old Town is the restaurants and antique shops.
Sights at a Glance
Churches Historic Buildings and
3 Cathedral of St John p72
Monuments
4 Jesuit Church 1 Zygmunt’s Column
5 Church of St Martin 2 Royal Castle pp70–71
8 Church of the Holy Spirit 7 The Barbican and City Walls
q Church of St Jacek 9 Raczyński Palace
r Church of St Kazimierz 0 Monument to the 1944
t Church of the Visitation Warsaw Uprising
of the Virgin Mary
Historic Streets and Squares
6 Old Town Square
w Ulica Freta
e New Town Square See also Street Finder,
maps 1 & 2
SZKI
SANGU
KONW IKTORS KA
FONDAMIŃ SKIEGO
WÓ JTO WSK A
ÓW
A
MS KA
SK
SAPIEŻYŃSKA
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PR ZY RY
ZA KR OC ZY
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AT E R S K
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Vistula
0 metres 250
RA
ŚWIĘTOJERSKA
FRET A
0 yards 250
A
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DUN MIASTA
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Śląsko-
KA
O DZ Dąbrowski
GR
I
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Warsaw’s 16th-century Barbican and city walls For keys to symbols see back flap
The Old Town

The Old Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) is surrounded
on all sides by town houses, rebuilt after World War II with
great devotion. Today it is one of the most attractive places in
Warsaw. From spring to autumn it is filled with café tables, and
also becomes an open-air gallery of contemporary art. On the
square and in neighbouring streets, especially Piwna and
Jezuicka, there are numerous restaurants and bars that are
reputed to be the best in Warsaw. The whole of the Old Town
is not only a tourist attraction but also a favourite place for 5 Church of St Martin
local people, who go to walk there, and for lovers to meet. This striking modern crucifix
incorporates a fragment of
a figure of Christ that was
3 . Cathedral of St John burned during the 1944
After suffering damage Warsaw Uprising.
during World War II, the
cathedral was rebuilt in
the Gothic style.
4 Jesuit Church
E
L
The Baroque-Mannerist
A
W
sanctuary of Our Lady of

D
P
IE
Mercy, patron saint of
O
K
P
Warsaw, was rebuilt after
A
R
S
World War II.
K
A
ZA
PI
EC
EK
1 Zygmunt’s Column
This is the oldest secular
monument in Warsaw.
A A
N K
S
IW Ń
P JA
O
P L AC T
ZAMKOWY IĘ
W
Ś
2 . Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski)

This former royal residence, rebuilt in
the 1970s, is today the symbol of Polish
independence.
The Palace Under the Tin Roof was the

first house in the city of Warsaw to have
a tin, rather than tiled, roof.
For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp310–11

THE OLD AND NEW TOWNS 69
OLD AND NEW

TOWNS
Vistula
CITY CENTRE
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 2
7 Barbican and City Walls
This brick building once protected
the northern approach to the city.
The Historical
Museum of
Warsaw occupies
the north side of
the market square.
J
NA
DU
W
Ą
KI
SK
ID
ER
O Statue of Zygmunt III Vasa at the top
U
N
SZ of Zygmunt’s Column
A
J
A
S
K 1 Zygmunt’s
J
IE Column
M
O
W
O Plac Zamkowy. Map 2 D3.
K
N
O
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 190, 222, 503.

łO
E v 20, 23, 26.

W
Y
Z
R
K
RYNEK Zygmunt’s Column, in the
STAREGO centre of Plac Zamkowy, is the
MIASTA
oldest secular statue in Warsaw.
It was erected in 1644 by
Zygmunt III’s son Władysław IV.
The monument, which stands
22 m (72 ft) high, consists of a
Corinthian granite column
supported on a tall plinth and
topped with a bronze statue of
the ruler, who is depicted with
a cross in his left hand and a
sword in his right. The figure is
the work of Clemente Molli,
and the whole monument was
designed by Augustyn Locci
the Elder and Constantino
Tencalla, two Italian architects
working for the king. This
monument, unusual in
European terms, glorifies
the secular ruler in a manner
which had until then been
reserved for saints and other
6 . Old Town Square religious subjects. Despite
Statue of the The square pulsates with life repeated damage and repairs,
Mermaid until late in the evening. the statue retains its original
appearance. The column on
which it stands, however, has
already been replaced twice.
An older, fractured shaft can
be seen on the terrace near
0 metres 100 Key
the south façade of the Palace
0 yards 100 Suggested route Under the Tin Roof.
2 Royal Castle
The decision to build the Royal Castle (Zamek
Królewski) was made when Zygmunt III Vasa
moved the capital from Krakow to Warsaw in
1596. It was built in the early Baroque style by
the Italian architects Giovanni Trevano, Giacomo
Rodondo and Matteo Castelli between 1598 and
1619, incorporating the earlier castle of the
Mazovian princes. Successive rulers remodelled
the castle many times. The late Baroque façade
overlooking the River Vistula dates from the time . Ballroom
Decorated with 17 pairs of golden
of August III, and the splendid interiors from that columns, the ballroom is one of the
of Stanisław August. Completely destroyed by castle’s most elaborate interiors.
the Germans during World War II, the castle
was reconstructed from 1971 to 1988.
Royal Princes’
Rooms
Historical paintings
by Jan Matejko are
displayed here.
Senators’ Room
In this room, the
Constitution of 3 May was Main entrance
formally adopted in 1791.
The coats of arms of all the
administrative regions and
territories of the Republic
are depicted on the walls.
A reconstructed royal
throne is also on show.
KEY Zygmunt Tower

This tower, 60 m (197 ft)
1 The Lanckoroński Gallery high, was built in 1619.
on the second floor contains two It is crowned by a cupola
paintings by Rembrandt: Portrait with a spire. It is also
of a Young Woman and Scholar at known as the Clock Tower
his Desk. (Zegarowa), since a clock
was installed in 1622.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Plac Zamkowy 4. Map 2 D3.
Tel 22 355 51 70. Reservations:
9am–2pm Tue–Fri (institutions
only). Fax: 22 355 51 27. Open
10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 11am–4pm
Sun. Royal and Grand
Apartments: Open 10am–6pm
daily (from 11am Mon & Sun).
Closed Oct–Apr: after 4pm &
Mon, 1 Jan, Easter Sat & Sun, 1
. Marble Room May, Corpus Christi, 1 Nov, 24, 25,
The interior dates from the time of Władysław IV. The 31 Dec. & (free on Sun except
magnificent portraits of Polish rulers by Marcello Royal and Grand Apartments).
Bacciarelli are the only later additions. 0 m 8 except Sun. No flash.
= d ∑ zamek-krolewski.pl
Transport
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 190, 222,
503. v 20, 23, 26.
Knights’ Hall
The finest piece
in this beautiful
interior is the Neo-
Classical sculpture
of Chronos by le
Brun and Monaldi.
Apartment of Prince Stanisław

Poniatowski . Canaletto Room
The Rococo panelling, thought to be by The walls of this room are decorated with
the French cabinet-maker Juste-Aurèle scenes of Warsaw by Canaletto, the famous
Meissonier, was taken from the former Venetian painter who was one of the most
Tarnowski Palace. commercially successful artists of his day.
3 Cathedral of St John VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Cathedral of St John started life as a parish church at Practical Information
the beginning of the 15th century, only acquiring cathedral ul. Świętojańska 8. Map 2 D3.
status in 1798. Over the years, successive rulers endowed Tel 22 831 02 89. Open
10am–1pm, 3–5:30pm Mon–Fri,
it with new chapels and other elements. Important 10am–1pm Sat, 2–5:30pm Sun.
ceremonies have taken place here, including the coronation Crypt: Open as above but
of Stanisław August Poniatowski in 1764 and the oath of 3–5:30pm Sun. &
allegiance to the Constitution of 3 May in 1791. Many famous Transport
Poles are buried in the cathedral, among them the Polish @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 222, 503.
v 20, 23, 26.
primate, Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński. Having been seriously
damaged in World War II, the
cathedral was rebuilt; its new
façade was designed by Jan
Zachwatowicz in the spirit of
Mazovian Gothic architecture.
Narutowicz Crypt Choir Stalls

Gabriel Narutowicz, first The choir stalls are a
president of the Polish copy of those donated
Republic, is interred in as a votive offering
the cathedral with other after Poland’s victory
distinguished Poles. in 1683 at the Battle
of Vienna.
Main
entrance
Małachowski
Family Tomb
Baryczkowski Crucifix This monument, carved
This crucifix, famed for its in white marble, is based
miraculous powers, dates on a design by the
from the start of the 16th Danish Neo-Classical
century and contains sculptor Bertel
natural human hair. Thorvaldsen.
4 Jesuit Church undulating façade. The late craftsmen’s studios. The

ul. Świętojańska 10. Map 2 D3. Baroque decoration of the museum is closed until the
Tel 22 831 16 75. @ v same as interior was destroyed in 1944. end of 2016 for renovations.
Cathedral (p72). Only a partially burned crucifix During this time, its collection
survived. After the war, the can be seen at the Palace of
This Mannerist-Baroque church interior was minutely restored Culture and Science (see p95).
was built for the Jesuit order to a design by Sister Alma
between 1609 and 1629, at the Skrzydlewska and the crucifix
same time as the monastery. incorporated into a modern
Although it had a somewhat design. In the 1980s, the church
chequered history, it survived was a meeting place for the
without major changes until political opposition to the
1944, when it was almost Communist government.
completely destroyed. When it
was rebuilt after World War II,
the church’s somewhat unusual 6 Old Town Square The Barbican, standing on the site of the
architecture was restored on the former outer city gate
Map 2 D3. @ v same as Cathedral
basis of the original plans, which (p72). Museum of Warsaw: Tel 22 531
had survived. Located in a 38 02. Closed for renovation until 7 The Barbican
narrow space, it has a unique
layout; especially original is the
the end of 2016. & (free Sun). = and City Walls
Museum of Literature: Tel 22 831 40
way in which the chancel is 61. Open 10am–4pm Mon, Tue & Fri, ul. Nowomiejska. Map 2 D2.
flooded by light falling from 11am–6pm Wed & Thu, 11am–5pm
the lantern in the elliptical Sun. Closed Sat & pub hols. & Warsaw is one of the few
dome over the apse. The crypt, ∑ muzeumliteratury.pl European capitals where a
which contains a stonecutter’s large portion of the old city
workshop, is in the space once Until the end of the 18th wall survives. Construction of
occupied by the basements of century, this rectangular market the wall began in the first half
the Gothic town houses that square was the most important of the 14th century and
stood on the site. place in Warsaw. The houses continued in phases up to the
around the square were built by mid-16th century. A double
the most affluent members of circumvallation, reinforced with
the community. Most of the fortresses and towers, encircled
buildings date from the 1600s, the town. The earliest part of
and it is these that give the the fortifications is the Barbican,
square its period character. In erected around 1548 by
the centre there was once a Gianbattista of Venice. It was
town hall, a weigh house and built on the site of an earlier
stalls, all demolished in 1817. In outer gate and was intended
their place now stands a statue to defend the Nowomiejska
of the Mermaid (Syrenka). Gate (Brama Nowomiejska). The
Each row of houses bears the northern part of this defensive
name of one of the people building, in the form of a
involved in the Four-Year Sejm. dungeon reinforced by four
On the north side is Dekerta – semicircular towers, survived
Jesuit church, dedicated to the Merciful named after Jan Dekert, mayor as the external wall of a town
Mother of God of Warsaw in the 18th century. house. After World War II, parts
All the houses are inter- of the wall were rebuilt and the
connected and now host the Barbican, which had ceased to
5 Church of Museum of Warsaw, which exist for a long period,
St Martin displays typical interiors of was restored to its
townspeople’s homes and full scale.
ul. Piwna 9/11. Map 2 D3. Tel 22 831
02 21. @ v same as Cathedral (p72).
The existing post-Augustan

Church is the result of two
major reconstructions in the
Baroque style, carried out in
1631–6 and in the first half of
the 18th century. The latter
phase of rebuilding took place
under the direction of architect
KaÏrol Bay, who designed the Old Town Square, a favourite place both for local people and tourists
New Town
The New Town took shape at the beginning of the
15th century along the route leading from Old
Warsaw to Zakroczym. Of interest here are the
Pauline, Franciscan, Dominican and Redemptorist
churches and the Church of the Holy Sacrament,
which were all rebuilt after World War II, and the
colourful reconstructed town houses. Ulica
Mostowa, the steepest street in Warsaw, leads
e . New Town Square
up to the fortress that defended one of the
A town hall once stood in the centre
longest bridges in 16th-century Europe. of this irregularly shaped square.
FRA
NCIS
ZK A
ŃS K
A
w Ulica Freta
This is the main thoroughfare in New
Town. Freta means an uncultivated field
or suburb. A
ET
FR
ŚW
8 Church of the Holy Spirit

IĘT
Every year, pilgrims gather at this

OJ
Baroque church before setting off

ER
to Jasna Góra, in Częstochowa.

SK
A
D
ŁU
G A
A ET
FR
PO
DW
AL
M
E
O
S
T
O
W
A
A
q . Church of St Jacek R
A feature of the unusually TA
S
elongated interior is the
17th-century mausoleum
of the Kotowski family.
r . Church of St
Kazimierz
This beautiful church
is connected to the The Old Powder
Convent of the Order Magazine was once
of the Holy Sacrament. the bridge gate.
8 Church of the
Holy Spirit
ul. Nowomiejska 23. Map 2 D2.
Tel 22 831 45 75. @ 116, 175, 178,
OLD AND 180, 222. Open 6–8am, 4–6pm Mon–
NEW TOWNS
Sat, 6:30am–2pm, 4–7:30pm Sun. At
CITY CENTRE
other times, on request.
The little wooden Church of the

Locator Map Holy Spirit (Kościół św. Ducha)
See Street Finder map 2 already existed in the 14th
century. Repeatedly extended,
it was burned down during the
0 metres 100
Swedish invasion in 1655. As
0 yards 100 the townspeople could not
afford to rebuild the church, Façade of Raczyński Palace, which today is
King Jan Kazimierz donated the Old Records Archive
t Church of the the site to the Pauline fathers
Visitation of the from Częstochowa, who were 9 Raczyński Palace
Virgin Mary
renowned for defending their ul. Długa 7. Map 2 D2. Tel 22 635
This is the oldest
monastery at Jasna Góra (see 45 32. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 222.
surviving church in
New Town. Princess pp162–3). In return, and at their
Anna of Mazovia own expense, the monks built a Raczynski Palace (Pałac
funded its con- wall that enclosed the church Raczyńskich), rebuilt in 1786 to
CZYMS
KA struction in the and the monastery within a design by the royal architect
ZAKRO Warsaw’s defences. Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer, houses
early 15th century.
The present church was built the Old Records Archive. The
in 1707–17, based on a design most beautiful feature of this
by the architect Józef Piola. The former residence is the early
work was directed by Józef Neo-Classical ballroom –
Szymon Bellotti and later Karol damaged in the war but
KO
Ceroni. The interior was restored afterwards – which is

ŚC
completed in 1725. decorated with stuccowork

IEL
Rebuilt after war damage, and allegorical paintings on

NA
the church is known today – the theme of Justice.

as it has been since 1711 – as The subject of the paintings
the main starting point for was manifestly at odds with the
pilgrimages to the shrine of the sentiments of the residence’s
Virgin Mary at Jasna Góra. owner, Kazimierz Raczyński,
In Ulica Długa, a small Neo- who held high office in the royal
Classical house abuts the church. court and was considered a
It was built at the beginning of traitor to his country by his
ZA
PIES the 19th century on the smallest contemporaries. In the 19th
plot in Warsaw; it occupies only century, the palace was the
a few square metres and has its seat of the Government Justice
own registry number. Commission, and, in the
interwar period, of the
Ministry of Justice.
Particularly tragic events
occurred here during World War
II. Bullet marks in the wall of the
building are evidence of the
street execution of 50 local
inhabitants who were arrested
at random on 24 January 1944.
But the worst crimes were
committed here during the
Warsaw Uprising. On 13 August
1944 a tank-trap exploded,
killing some 80 insurgents, and
on 2 September the Nazi SS
Key killed several hundred injured
Church of the Holy Spirit, facing down people in the building, which
Suggested route
Ulica Mostowa was being used as a hospital.
1639. Next to it was erected the

largest monastery in Warsaw.
Interesting features inside the
church, rebuilt after World War II,
include the beautiful vaulting
above the aisles, the Gothic
chancel, decorated with
stuccowork of the Lublin type,
and the 17th-century
tombstones shattered in 1944.
The Baroque tomb of Adam and
Małgorzata Kotowski, by the
Monument to the 1944 Warsaw Uprising Dutch architect Tylman van
Gameren, is also noteworthy.
0 Monument to the conservatism of Mazovian The domed chapel in which
buildings and partly in an it stands is decorated with
1944 Warsaw attempt to endow the church portraits, painted on tin plate,
Uprising with the appearance of age, so of the donors, who became
pl. Krasińskich. Map 1 C2. @ 116, 178, as to create an illusion of the prosperous and were ennobled
180, 222, 503. age-old traditions of the order – despite their humble origins.
which had in fact only been set
This monument, unveiled in up in Warsaw in 1603. When
1989, commemorates the work was interrupted by a w Ulica Freta
heroes of the historic Warsaw plague that raged in Warsaw in Map 2 D2. @ 116, 178, 180, 222, 503.
Uprising. It consists of sculptures 1625, the few remaining monks Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum:
by Wincenty Kućma placed in listened to confessions and Tel 22 831 80 92. Open 10am–
an architectural setting by Jacek gave communion through 4:30pm Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug: to 7pm).
Budyń. The sculptures represent openings drilled in the doors. & 8 ∑ muzeum-msc.pl
soldiers – one group defending The work was completed in
the barricades, the other going The main road in the New
down into the sewers. (The Town, Ulica Freta developed
insurgents used the sewer along a section of the old route
system to move around leading from Old Warsaw to
Warsaw during the uprising.) Zakroczym. At the end of the
The entrance to one such 1300s, buildings began to
sewer is still to be found near appear along it, and in the
the monument. 15th century it came within
It was in front of this the precincts of New Warsaw
monument, during the (Nowa Warszawa).
celebrations marking the 50th Several good antique shops
anniversary of the uprising, that and cafés are on this street. The
the President of the Federal house at No. 15, where Marie
Republic of Germany, Richard Curie was born, is now a
Herzog, apologized to the Polish museum dedicated to her.
nation for the unleashing of Films about her life and the
World War II by the Third Reich history of chemistry are
and the bloody suppression of presented to groups on
the Warsaw Uprising. Church of St Jacek from Ulica Freta request at an extra charge.
q Church of Maria Skłodowska-Curie (1867–1934)

St Jacek Maria Skłodowska (Marie Curie) was 24 years
ul. Freta 8/10. Map 2 D2. Tel 22 635 old when she left Warsaw to study in Paris.
47 00. @ 116, 178, 180, 222, 503. Within a decade she had become famous as
the co-discoverer of radioactivity. Together
At the beginning of the 17th with her husband, Pierre Curie, she
century, while the Jesuits were discovered the elements radium and
building a Baroque church in polonium. She was awarded the Nobel
the Old Town, the Dominicans Prize twice: the first time in 1903, when
started work on a Gothic she won the prize for physics jointly
chancel for the Church of with her husband – becoming the
first woman Nobel laureate – and the
St Jacek (Kościół św. Jacka).
second in 1911 for chemistry.
They returned to the Gothic
style partly because of the
t Church of the
Visitation of the
Virgin Mary
ul. Przyrynek 2. Map 2 D1. Tel 22 831
24 73. @ 116, 178, 180, 222, 503.
The brick tower of the Church

of the Visitation of the Virgin
Mary (Kościół Nawiedzenia
NMP) rises over the roofs of
the houses on the bank of the
River Vistula. This church is the
oldest in the New Town. It was
built at the beginning of the
15th century by the Mazovian
The triangular-shaped New Town Square princess, Anna, wife of Janusz I,
the Elder, and is reputed to
e New Town since been renovated. stand on the site of a pagan
Square Previously polychrome, it is now sacred spot.
white. The most beautiful Restoration carried out in
Map 2 D2. @ 116, 178, 180, 222, 503. reconstructed feature is the the 19th century changed
tomb of Maria Karolina, the building’s appearance
The heart of the New Town Princesse de Bouillon, several times. Damaged
is the market square (Rynek granddaughter of Jan III during World War II, it
Nowego Miasta). Once Sobieski. It was was subsequently
rectangular, it acquired its installed in 1746 by rebuilt in the 15th-
odd triangular shape after Bishop Andrzej century Gothic style.
reconstruction. When the town Załuski and Prince The vaulting above
hall, which stood in the centre Michał Kazimierz the chancel was
of the square, was demolished Radziwiłł, a well- completed by
in 1818, a splendid view of the known reveller who medieval methods:
Baroque dome which crowns once, unsuccessfully, that is, it was filled
the Church of St Kazimierz was sought her hand in by hand, without
opened up. Destroyed in 1944, marriage. The tomb the use of pre-
the church was rebuilt in a features a fractured fabricated moulds.
manner reminiscent of the 18th shield and a crown In the cemetery
century, though not exactly falling into an abyss, next to the church
replicating the original. The references to the there stands a
façades of many buildings Sobieski coat of arms Tomb of Maria Karolina, modern statue
around the square are covered and the death of the Princesse de Bouillon of Walerian
with Socialist Realist murals. A last member of the Łukasiński (1786–
charming 19th-century well is royal line. At the rear of the 1868), founder of the National
to be found near Ulica Freta. convent a garden, unchanged Patriotic Society.
since the 17th century, From the terrace next to the
r Church of descends in tiers to the River church, there is a magnificent
Vistula below. view of the Vistula valley.
St Kazimierz
Rynek Nowego Miasta 2. Map 2 D2.
Tel 22 635 71 13. @ 116, 178, 180,
222, 503. Convent: Closed Church
open to visitors.
The Church and Convent of the

Order of the Holy Sacrament,
designed by Tylman van
Gameren, was built in 1688–92
by King Jan III Sobieski and
Queen Maria Kazimiera. The
remarkable domed building
is distinguished by its clear
Baroque architecture of classic
proportions. The interior, which
was damaged in the war, has Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary
THE ROYAL ROUTE

The Royal Route (Trakt Królewski) is summer with baskets of flowers, is lined
so named because of the former royal with cafés and elegant shops. The most
residences that line it. It stretches from impressive buildings are on Krakowskie
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) up to the Przedmieście. This splendid location on
Old Town, along Aleje Ujazdowskie, the edge of the escarpment inspired
through Nowy Świat and on to Krakowskie powerful citizens to build large houses
Przedmieście. This part of Warsaw has been with gardens. Many churches and
largely rebuilt after destruction suffered in monasteries were also located here, as
World War II. On Aleje Ujazdowskie there well as the president’s residence and
are beautiful parks and little palaces university buildings. In the street itself,
surrounded by gardens, most of which now there are statues of distinguished Poles.
house embassies. The Neo-Classical Nowy In summer, fêtes and bazaars are often
Świat, its wide pavements decorated in organized along the Royal Route.
Sights at a Glance
Churches
1 Church of St Anne NO
WY ZD
KO ZIA
3 Carmelite Church ZJA

SOWIA
5 Church of the Visitation B E DNA

RSK
DOBRA
A
7 Church of the Holy Cross
Historic Buildings and
IE C
Monuments
E PRZEDMIEŚ
KARO
WA See also Street Finder
Vi
2 Statue of Adam Mickiewicz

WY
maps 2 & 4
B R O WA R N A
KAROWA
st
4 Namiestnikowski Palace
BRZ
ul
6 University of Warsaw
a
EŻE
KRAKOWSKI
8 Staszic Palace WIŚLANA

KO
9 Gniński-Ostrogski Palace LIPOWA

SCI
t Parliament
USZ
OBOŹNA
DOBRA
Streets and Squares LESZCZYŃSKA

KO
KARASIA
TOP
WS
DY N A S Y
0 Nowy Świat Ś W IĘ
TOKR
ZYSK
KIE
IEL
A BAR
e Plac Trzech Krzyży Nowy Świat- EW T
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Uniwersytet
OS
ZAJĘCZA
r Aleje Ujazdowskie
Z
ZA
W AR EC Most
KA
ORDY TA M ŚwIętokrzyski
I AT
NACK KA
Museums A TA M K A
S Z P I TA L N A
Centrum
ŚW
Ń-
GÓ RS KIE Nauki
q National Museum GO
GAŁCZY
SKIEGO
SO
KR U C
DOB
Kopernik
LEC
pp86–7
RA
ZKO
CHMI ELNA
w Polish Military Museum FOK SAL
NOWY
ZA
WS
AC
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KI
Warszawa
EGO
SM OLN A Powiśle
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CH. DE Most
GAULLE’A AL. JER 3 MAJA
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K. J. Ponia-
towskiego
BRA
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K R U C ZK O W SK
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NA
0 metres 500
GÓR
NOŚ
0 yards 500 LĄSK
A
Łazienki Park, with Belvedere Palace in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
Krakowskie Przedmieście
5 Church of the
Krakowskie Przedmieście is undoubtedly one of Visitation
the most beautiful streets in Warsaw. Rebuilt after Also known as the
the war, the magnificent palaces that lie along it Church of St Joseph,
now generally house government departments. this is one of the
few churches in
There are also pleasant restaurants, bars and cafés. Warsaw that was
The street is lined with trees, green squares and not destroyed
little palaces with courtyards. On weekdays, during World War II.
Krakowskie Przedmieście is one of the liveliest Its interior features
are intact.
streets in Warsaw, as two great institutions of
higher education are situated here: the University
of Warsaw and the Academy of Fine Arts.
3 Carmelite Church
4 Namiestnikowski Palace
The Church of Our Lady This former palace, rebuilt in
of the Assumption and the Neo-Classical style for the
St Joseph the Bridegroom tsar’s governor in the Kingdom
has a splendid early Neo- of Poland, is now the
Classical façade crowned president’s residence.
with a green globe
representing
the earth. KA
RO
W
A
BE
TO
DN
KA
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SK
RZE
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OW
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KR
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DOW
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2 Statue of Adam
Mickiewicz
The unveiling of the
statue in 1898 was a
great manifestation
of patriotism.
1 . Church of St Anne
The Neo-Classical façade of the The Hotel Bristol, which overlooks the
church is reminiscent of the style Namiestnikowski Palace, is the most
of the 16th-century Italian luxurious, as well as the most expensive,
architect Andrea Palladio. hotel in Warsaw.
T H E R OYA L R O U T E 81
1 Church of
CITY CENTRE
St Anne
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68.
Map 2 D3. Tel 22 826 89 91.
ROYAL ROUTE @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 195, 222, 503.
v 13, 20, 23, 26.
This Gothic church was built for

Locator Map the Bernardine order by Anna,
See Street Finder map 2 widow of the Mazovian prince
Bolesław III, in the second half
8 Staszic Palace of the 15th century. It was
This Neo-Classical palace extended between 1518 and
now houses the Polish 1533. Destroyed during the
Academy of Sciences. Swedish invasion in 1655–60,
The statue of Nicolaus Copernicus
it was rebuilt in a Baroque style
KOPERNIKA
is situated at the southern end

to a design by Józef Szymon
of Krakowskie Przedmieście.
Bellotti. The Gothic chancel and
the external walls were retained.
OB
The Neo-Classical façade, by

OŹ
Chrystian Piotr Aigner and

NA
Stanisław Kostka Potocki, is a

later addition.
When the monastery was
closed in 1864, the church
became a religious academic
institution, a role that it
IE
ŚC maintains to the present day.
IE
The relics of St Ładysław of
DM
ZE Gielniów, one of the patron
PR saints of Warsaw, are preserved
in a side chapel. The
KR
magnificent interior of the

ÓL
church has polychrome

EW
paintings by Walenty Żebrowski

SKA
and a series of Rococo altars. In

the monastery, part of which
dates from the 16th century,
7. Church of the crystalline vaulting in the
the Holy Cross cloisters has survived.
Inside this church
are urns containing
the hearts of Fryderyk
Chopin and
Władysław Reymont,
winner of the Nobel
Prize for Literature.
6 . University of Warsaw
The University of Warsaw is the
largest educational institution
in Poland. Only some of the
faculties are situated at its main Key
site on Krakowskie Przedmieście. Suggested route
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Crystalline vaulting in the cloister of the
Bernadine monastery
4 Namiestnikowski
2Statue of Adam
Mickiewicz Palace
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. Map 2 D4.
Map 2 D4. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, 222,
503. Closed to the public.
This statue of Poland’s most
distinguished Romantic poet The palace owes its elegant Neo-
was unveiled in 1898, on the Classical form to refurbishment
centenary of his birth. Erecting carried out by Chrystian Piotr
the statue during the period Aigner in 1918–19. However, this
of intense Russification that work conceals much older walls,
followed the January as a palace stood on this site as
Insurrection of 1863 was a great early as the mid-17th century.
achievement on the part of the Namiestnikowski Palace was
committee in charge of the home to several prominent
project, led by Michał Radziwiłł familes, among them the
and Henryk Sienkiewicz. The The early Neo-Classical façade of the Koniecpolskis, the Lubomirskis
statue was designed by Cyprian Carmelite Church and, from 1685, the Radziwiłłs.
Godebski, and the plinth by From them the government
Józef Pius Dziekoński and many of its original features. of the Kingdom of Poland
Władysław Marconi. It was The main altar, with bought the palace in 1818
set up in a square off sculptures by Jan Jerzy as the residence of the
Krakowskie Przedmieście Plersch, is beautiful. Plersch governor-general of the tsarist
that was once lined with also carved the sculptural government. Among the
houses flanked by side group of the Visitation of the people who lived here were
streets. The houses were Virgin, a very sophisticated General Józef Zajączek, viceroy
later demolished and the and Romantic piece which of Tsar Alexander, and the
road widened. Only the was transferred from an much-hated General Iwan
statue of the Mother of earlier Dominican church Paskiewicz. The wife of General
God of Passau, dating from and can now be seen on Zajączek was a very colourful
1683, on the edge of the the altar near the rood arch. figure; she was a prima ballerina
square, survives. It was Also noteworthy are the and shocked the town with her
made in the workshop Baroque paintings, love affairs late into old age.
of Szymon Belloti to especially the two The palace escaped serious
a commission from small works in the damage during World War II.
Jan III Sobieski as an side altars near the After refurbishment, it was
offering in thanks chancel, by designated the seat of the
for a Polish victory Szymon Council of Ministers and
at the Battle of Statue of Adam Mickiewicz Czechowicz. witnessed many important
Vienna and for the During the political events: the signing
protection of the royal family. Great Northern War, in 1705, of the Warsaw Pact in 1955,
Stanisław Leszczyński held the treaty normalizing relations
peace negotiations with with Germany in 1970, and the
3 Carmelite Church Charles XII in the church. From Round Table Talks in 1989. Since
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54. 1864, after the closure of the 1994 the palace has been the
Map 2 D4. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, monastery, the monastic residence of the president of
222, 503. buildings housed a seminary. the Republic of Poland.
The Baroque Church of Our

Lady of the Assumption (Kościół
Wniebowzięcia NMP) was
built for the order of Discalced
Carmelites in 1661–82, probably
to a design by Józef Szymon
Belloti, although the Neo-
Classical façade is considerably
later. Designed by Efraim
Schroeger, it dates from 1782
and is one of the earliest
examples of Neo-Classicism in
Poland. Despite suffering war
damage, the church, consisting
of a nave with interconnecting
side chapels and a transept, has Namiestnikowski Palace with a statue of Józef Poniatowski
the Russian authorities – a

library was added (Stefan Szyller
and Antoni Jabłoński, 1891–4).
The Auditorium Maximum
was built when the university
passed back into Polish hands
after the country regained
its independence.
Today, the University of
Warsaw is Poland’s largest
educational establishment. The
complex around Kazimierz
Palace (Pałac Kazimierzowski),
which houses several buildings,
is now mainly used as its
administrative centre.
7 Church of the
Holy Cross
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3. Map 2
D5. Tel 22 556 88 20. @ 116, 175,
178, 180, 222, 503. q Nowy Świat–
Uniwersytet.
Baroque ebony tabernacle in the Church of the Visitation
The original Church of the

5 Church of the 6University of Holy Cross (Kościół św. Krzyża,
Visitation Warsaw 1626) was destroyed during
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28. the Swedish Deluge of the
Map 2 D5. @ 116, 175, 178, 180, Map 2 D5. Tel 22 552 00 00. @ 116, 1650s. The current Baroque
222, 503. 175, 178, 180, 222, 503. q Nowy missionaries’ church was
Świat–Uniwersytet. designed by Giuseppe Simone
The Order of the Visitation was Bellotti and built between
brought to Poland by Maria The nucleus of the University 1679 and 1696. The façade
Gonzaga, wife of Jan Kazimierz. of Warsaw (Uniwersytet was completed in 1760.
Work on the Church of the Warszawski) grew from a The church is a splendid
Visitation (Kościół Wizytek) summer palace known as the example of Varsovian church
began in the same year but was Villa Regia. In the first half of architecture of the late 17th
interrupted, and not resumed the 17th century, the palace century. During World War II, it
until the 18th century, when the belonged to the Vasa dynasty. suffered major damage and most
architect Karol Bay took control From then on it underwent of its interior was destroyed. The
of the project. The façade, by many phases of refurbishment, most interesting surviving
Efraim Schroeger, was and in 1816 was chosen to feature is the altar in the south
completed in 1763. The church house what was then the wing of the transept, designed
suffered no war damage, so its new university. After further by Tylman van Gameren. Many
interior features have survived alteration, the former palace important ceremonies have
intact. The most splendid of acquired the late Neo- taken place in the church,
these are the Rococo pulpit Classical appearance including the funerals of
in the form of a ship and the that it has today – as political thinker Stanisław
sculptures on the high altar. did the outbuildings to Staszic (1755–1826),
Many fine paintings have also each side (designed by composer Karol
survived, including The Visitation Jakub Kubicki in 1814–16), Szymanowski
by Tadeusz Kuntze-Konicz, St the main school (Corrazzi, (1882–1937)
Luis Gonzaga by Daniel Szulc commenced 1841), and and painter Leon
and St Francis of Sales by the lecture hall and Wyczółkowski (1852–
Szymon Czechowicz. The the former Fine Arts 1936). Urns containing
ebony tabernacle, decorated Department (both the hearts of composer
with silver plaques by Herman by Michał Kado, Fryderyk Chopin (1810–49)
Pothoff, was commissioned by 1818–22). After and novelist
Ludwika Maria and completed the January Władysław
in 1654. Next to the church, the Insurrection – Reymont (1867–
Baroque convent building and when the 1925) are built
garden are still used by the university into a pillar of
Nuns of the Visitation today. was run by Statue of Christ, Church of the Holy Cross the nave.
joined by late Neo- Classical

town houses. At the end of the
19th century, Nowy Świat was
an elegant street of restaurants,
cafés, summer theatres, hotels
and shops. After serious
damage in World War II, only the
Neo-Classical buildings were
reconstructed, although later
buildings were given pseudo-
Neo-Classical features to
preserve a uniformity of style.
Today, Nowy Świat is one of
the most attractive streets in
Warsaw, with wide pedestrian
Monument to Nicolaus Copernicus in front of Staszic Palace areas and cafés with pavement
gardens. Blikle, the café at
8 Staszic Palace which houses portraits, letters No. 33, dates back to 1869 and
and autograph manuscripts, has the best doughnuts
ul. Nowy Świat 72. Map 2 D5. @ 111,
as well as the grand piano at (pączki) in town. Kossakowski
116, 125, 175, 180, 222, 503. q Nowy
Świat–Uniwersytet. which Chopin composed Palace, at No. 19, was remodel-
during the last two years of his led by Henryk Marconi in
Contrary to what its name life. It is also the home of the 1849–51. As you stroll along
suggests, Staszic Palace (Pałac Chopin Society, and regular Nowy Świat it is worth turning
Staszica) never belonged to performances of Chopin’s down Ulica Foksal, where there
Stanisław Staszic, nor did he music take place here. are a number of 19th-century
ever live here – although he houses and small palaces. The
did fund it. The palace was built most beautiful, at Nos. 1/2/4,
by Antonio Corazzi between 0 Nowy Świat was built for the Zamoyski
1820 and 1823 in the late Neo- Map 3 C1, 3 C2, 4 D1. @ E-2, 111, 116, family by Leandro Marconi in
Classical style, as the head- 128, 175, 180, 222, 503. v 7, 8, 9, 22, 1878–9. Today, it houses an
quarters of the Royal Society 24, 25. q Nowy Świat–Uniwersytet. upmarket art gallery and the
of Friends of Science. Since Association of Architects of
World War II it has housed the The street known as Nowy Świat the Polish Republic. At the
Polish Academy of Science and (New World) is a stretch of the roundabout on the intersection
the Warsaw Scientific Society. medieval route leading from of Nowy Świat and Aleje
The monument to astronomer the castle to Czersk and on to Jerozolimskie stands the huge
Nicolaus Copernicus that stands Krakow, and thus forms part building of the former Polish
in front of the building is by of the Royal Route. Buildings United Workers’ Party Central
Bertel Thorvaldsen. It was started to appear along a Committee. Transformed after
unveiled in 1830. section of the road at the end of the fall of Communism into a
the 18th century. First came a “den of capitalism”, it now
small number of Neo-Classical houses banks, the Polish stock
9 Gniński-
palaces; by the beginning of the exchange and the offices of
Ostrogski Palace 19th century they had been various companies.
ul. Okólnik 1. Map 4 D1. Tel 22 441 62
51. @ 102, 105, 111, 116, 118, 175,
178, 180, 503. Open 11am–8pm Tue–
Sun. 9 d & Concerts: ∑ chopin.
museum/en
Built after 1681, Gniński-

Ostrogski Palace (Pałac
Gnińskich-Ostrogskich) is
one of Tylman van Gameren’s
grand masterpieces. The
pavilion was erected on an
elevated terrace above a cellar.
According to legend, a golden
duck lived under the palace,
guarding its treasures.
Today the palace is home to
the Fryderyk Chopin Museum
(Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina), Nowy Świat, a street of elegant shops and cafés
q National Museum Joachim Daniel Jauch in by embassies. There are also

1731, that mark the beginning palatial houses; No. 17 and No.
See pp86–7.
of Droga Kalwaryjską (Road 19, by architect Stanisław
of Calvary). The third cross is Grochowicz, are especially
w Polish Military held by St John Nepomuk, splendid. No. 17, built in 1903–4,
Museum whose statue was erected in has an eclectic façade. No. 1,
1752 by Grand Crown Marshal formerly a barracks, houses the
Aleje Jerozolimskie 3. Map 4 D2 and
6 E1. Tel 22 629 52 71/2. @ 111, 117,
Franciszek Bieliński to mark offices of the Council of Ministers.
158, 507, 517, 521. v 7, 8, 9, 22, 24, the completion of the project
25. Open 10am–5pm Wed, to pave the streets of Warsaw.
10am–4pm Thu–Sun. & (free on A fourth cross crowns the t Parliament
Sun). 8 Outdoor exhibition: Open dome of the 19th-century ul. Wiejska 2/4/6. Map 4 D3, 4 D4.
until dusk, free admission. - = Church of St Alexander Tel 22 694 25 00. @ E-2, 107, 108,
(Kościół św. 116, 118, 159, 166, 171, 180, 222, 503.
The Polish Military Aleksandra). The Open by prior arrangement.
Museum (Muzeum oldest buildings
Wojska Polskiego), around the square The parliamentary tradition in
established in 1920, are two 18th-century Poland dates from 1453, but it
contains a collection town houses: No. 1 was interrupted by the loss of
of Polish arms and Nowy Świat, which Polish sovereignty in the late
armour spanning has an early Neo- 1700s. Only after the restoration
more than 1,000 Classical façade, and of Poland’s independence in
years. The most No. 2 Plac Trzech 1918 was its two-chamber
interesting aspect Krzyży, part of the parliament – comprising the
of the permanent complex of the Sejm and the Senate –
exhibition is the Institute of the reconvened. Lacking a suitable
collection of Deaf and Blind, building, representatives and
armour from the established in 1817. senators gathered for a time in
early Middle Ages to Other buildings the former Institute for the
the end of the 18th erected round the Education of Young Ladies.
century. It includes a square in the 20th In 1925–8, a lofty semicircular
rare gilded helmet century have hall was built, with a debating
that belonged to a restored chamber for the Sejm. It was
Polish chieftain of something of its designed by Kazimierz
Statue of St John
the early Christian era urban character. Skórewicz and decorated with
Nepomuk
and numerous pieces Art Deco bas-reliefs by Jan
relating to the greatest Szczepkowski. After damage
r Aleje
medieval battles fought on suffered in World War II, the
Polish territory. Ujazdowskie parliamentary buildings were
Among the more unusual Map 3 C3, 3 C4, 3 C5. @ 116, 118, significantly extended in the
exhibits are medieval jousting 138, 166, 180, 182, 187, 188, 502, 503, spirit of the comparatively
armour and an impressive 514, 520, 523, 525. refined Socialist Realist style, to
collection of 17th-century a design by Bohdan Pniewski.
armour of the Husaria, the Aleje Ujazdowskie is one of the In 1989, after the first free
famous Polish cavalry, with most beautiful streets in Warsaw elections since World War II, the
eagle wings, leopardskins and a – a good place for a stroll in the upper parliamentary chamber,
mounted cavalryman in full summer. While the east side is abolished under Communist
regalia. Heavy weapons from bordered by parks, the west is rule, was restored.
the two World Wars are lined with elegant houses In 1999, a monument in
displayed in the park outside. originally built for Warsaw’s ruling honour of the Home Army was
classes but now largely occupied unveiled in front of the Sejm.
e Plac Trzech
Krzyży
Map 3 C2, 3 C3. @ E-2, 108, 116, 118,
166, 171, 180, 222, 503.
Plac Trzech Krzyży (Three

Crosses Square) is something
of a misnomer. Mounted on
top of Baroque columns are two
gilded crosses, commissioned
by August II and made by The semicircular parliament (Sejm) building, with Art Deco bas-reliefs
q National Museum
The National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) was
originally the Museum of Fine Arts, acquiring its
present status in 1916. Despite wartime losses,
today it has a large collection of works of art
covering all periods from antiquity to modern
times. Due to lack of space, not all the exhibits
are on permanent display.
. Virgin and Child
This important painting
. St Anne Fresco by Sandro Botticelli is the
This fresco of St Anne only work by the artist in
is one of the 10th- Polish collections.
century wall paintings
discovered by Polish
archaeologists in
Faras, Sudan.
Battle of
Grunwald,
a painting by
Greek Vase Jan Matejko (see
Some of the Greek vases pp46–7), is the most
displayed in the Gallery famous in the Gallery
of Ancient Art are of Polish Art.
from a private
collection.
Key
Ancient Art
Faras Collection
Medieval Art
19th-century Art
20th- and 21st-century Art
15th- to 18th-century European
Paintings
Ground floor
15th- to 19th-century Polish
and European Portraits
Polish Decorative Art
European Decorative Art Virgin from Wrocław
L. Kronenberg Silver Room This “Beautiful Madonna” is an
early 15th-century sculpture
Temporary exhibitions
that exemplifies the
Non-exhibition areas International Gothic style.
The Raising of Lazarus

This painting by
Rembrandt pupil Carel
Fabritius is one of his
al. Jerozolimskie 3. Map 4 D2. Tel
finest, and the most
22 629 30 93. Open 10am–6pm
important exhibit in the
Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm
Foreign Art Gallery.
Thu. Closed Mon, 1 Jan, Easter
Sun, 1 and 3 May, Corpus Christi,
15 Aug, 1 Nov, 24–26 Dec. &
(free Tue.) = m ^ - 9 7
8 e Films: ∑ mnw.art.pl
Transport
@ E-2, 111, 117, 158, 517, 521.
v 7, 8, 9, 22, 24, 25.
Furniture
This bedroom designed by Karol
Tichy in 1909 reflects the
Second floor utilitarian aspect of 20th-century
design. It is on display in the
Decorative Arts Gallery.
Banquet
The painter and mathematician Leon Chwistek
First floor developed a theory of “zonism”, according to
which various areas of a painting are dominated
by certain shapes and colours, as in this scene.
. Polish Hamlet
This portrait of the aristocrat and
politician Aleksander Wielopolski
painted by Jacek Malczewski in
1903, is in the style of the Polish
Symbolist school.
Gallery Guide
The collections are arranged on three floors. On the ground floor
are the Galleries of Ancient Art, the Faras Collection and the Gallery
of Medieval Art. On the first floor is the collection of Polish art.
Foreign paintings can be seen on the first and second floors.
THE CITY CENTRE

From the late 18th to the mid-19th century, centre moved to the area around Ulica
the area around Ulica Senatorska and Plac Marszałkowska, prompted by the opening in
Teatralny was the commercial and cultural 1845 of Warsaw’s first railway station at the
centre of Warsaw. Imposing Neo-Classical junction with Aleje Jerozolimskie. The city
buildings with impressive colonnades are still centre was completely transformed after the
to be seen there. The Grand Theatre (Teatr damage inflicted during World War II. Today,
Wielki) on Plac Teatralny is one of the largest its principal landmark is the Palace of Culture
buildings of its type in Europe. The Saxon and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki). The
Gardens (Ogród Saski), stretching through the western part of the city centre is dominated
centre of the district, are what remains of a by tower blocks. For tourists, the eastern side
former royal park that adjoined the residence is of most interest. Here, several historic
of the Saxon king August II. In the second half buildings have survived, dating from the
of the 19th century, the city’s commercial 18th up to the early 20th century.
Sights at a Glance
Places of Worship
3 Capuchin Church
DZIKA
w Evangelical Church of the

S TAW K I
Augsburg Confession M
UR
NISKA AN
t Nożyk Synagogue OW
SKA
KARMELICKA
Buildings and Historic MIŁA E GO

S KI
WD
Monuments
SA
UB
O- See also Street Finder
LE W A R T OI
S
DER
1 Primate’s Palace
A
maps 1, 2 & 3
ŁOW
I
2 Branicki Palace
AN
WK
Z A M E N H O FA
NAL E
WA
AN IE L E W I C Z A
4 Pac Palace
B O N I F R AT
AL. JANA
A
AW
5 Krasiński Palace PAWIA ŚW

IĘTO
JERSKA
YSŁ
6 Arsenal DZIELNA
ERSK
ŁAD
KARMELICKA
7 Przebendowski-Radziwiłłów
NOWO LIPKI
A
Palace
GEN.W
OGRÓD
BOHATERÓW
KRASIŃSKICH
r Palace of Culture and Science
PAW L A I I
GETTA
Monuments and
DŁUGA
MI
Commemorative Sites
OD
Ratusz
u Umschlagplatz Monument
OW
AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
A
i Monument to the Heroes

BIE
PLAC
L
ORLA
of the Ghetto BANKOWY

AŃ
SK
p Monument to those Fallen

A
SENATORSKA PLAC
TEATRALNY
and Murdered in the East ELEK TORA LNA
IA -
DN CHO
Streets and Squares

ZE
PLAC M
AL. J
IROWSK
PR
I
8 Plac Bankowy PTAS
IA
9 Plac Teatralny
ANA
OGRÓD
SASKI
PLAC
Parks MARSZALKA
PILSUDSKIEGO
PA W L
GRZYBO WSKA
0 Saxon Gardens KRÓLEWSKA
PLAC
GRZYBOWSKI
Museums and Galleries
A
ZIEL NA
KA
PRÓŻNA
KREDYTOWA
IE C
TWARDA
q Zachęta
II
ZOW
e Ethnographical Museum RYSIA

O
Rondo
K IE G
ONZ ŚWIĘTO
MA
y Pawiak Prison KRZYSK

A
Świętokrzyska
C ZA C
PLAC
o Museum of the History ŚLISKA POWSTAŃCÓW
MO NIU SZ WARSZAWY
SKA
of Polish Jews KI
AT TE R
JAS NA
AŁKOW
EM ILI I PL
PLAC
DEFILAD ZŁOTA
SZPITALNA
ZG
0 metres 500
MARSZ
OD
CHMIELNA
A
0 yards 500 Warszawa Centrum

Śródmieście WIDOK
AL. JEROZO
LIMSKIE
The Palace of Culture and Science, the tallest building in Poland For keys to symbols see back flap
Ulica Miodowa
Ulica Miodowa lies just outside the much-visited Old Town.
Tourists rarely venture here, but it holds many attractions
nonetheless. The street has three Baroque churches and
several palaces – including the Neo-Classical Primate’s Palace
and the Rococo Branicki Palace – set behind spacious
courtyards. The former Collegium Nobilium, the most famous
Polish school for the children of the nobility in the 18th
century, now houses the Academy of Dramatic Arts. The Basilian church is hidden
behind the palace façade.
Byzantine-Ukrainian masses
are celebrated here.
S
C
H
IL
L
E
R
A
4 . Pac Palace
The 19th-century interiors
are decorated in the Gothic,
Renaissance, Greek and
Moorish styles.
Nike
A L . S
Monument
O L I D
A
W
A R N O
O
D
IO
Ś C I
K
A
P
IT
U
L
N
A
3 . Capuchin Church
In accordance with the rule
of poverty of the Capuchin
order, the altars in this
church have no gilt or
S
polychrome decoration. E
N
A
A
W
T
O
O
R
S
D
K
IO
A
M
2 Branicki
Palace
Rebuilt after World War
II, the palace was crowned
with sculptures derived from
paintings by Canaletto.
THE CITY CENTRE 91
OLD & NEW

TOWNS
CITY CENTRE
ROYAL ROUTE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
The Primate’s Palace, a building in the Neo-Classical style

D
Ł
U Following extensive destruction
G
A 1 Primate’s Palace
during World War II, this Rococo
ul. Senatorska 13/15. Map 2 D3. Tel 22 palace was rebuilt in 1947–53.
829 66 67. @ 111, 116, 175, 180. The reconstruction was based
Closed to the public. on detailed historical research
and 18th-century paintings.
The present-day appearance
of the Primate’s Palace (Pałac
Prymasowski) reflects the 3 Capuchin Church
refurbishments carried out by ul. Miodowa 13. Map 1 C3. @ 116,
Efraim Schroeger in 1777–84 for 174, 175, 180, 503.
the Primate of Poland, Antoni
Ostrowski. Schroeger’s work was The Capuchin Church (kościół
then continued by Szymon Zug Kapucynów), or Church of the
for the next primate, Michał Transfiguration, was built by Jan
Poniatowski. The unusual III Sobieski in gratitude for the
arrangement of the building, Polish victory over the Turks at
with its semicircular wings, is the Battle of Vienna in 1683.
reminiscent of the designs of Building began in the same year
the most celebrated architect under the direction of Izydor
of the Italian Renaissance, Affaita – probably to designs
Andrea Palladio (1508–80). by Tylman van Gameren and
The Primate’s Palace is Agostino Locci the Younger –
generally considered to be the and was completed by Carlo
first Neo-Classical palace built Ceroni in 1692. The modest
in Poland. It was destroyed façade recalls the Capuchin
during World War II, then was church in Rome. The church
rebuilt in 1949–52. Today it is houses urns containing the
used as an office building. heart of Jan III and the ashes
The superb Great Hall (Sala of the Saxon king, August II.
Wielka) is decorated with Ionic In the crypt, there is a nativity
columns and delicate Neo- scene with emotive figures.
Classical stuccowork.
2 Branicki Palace
The Field Cathedral of the ul. Miodowa 6. Map 2 D3. @ 116,
Polish Armed Forces was 180, 195. Closed to the public.
built in the 17th century as
a church for the Piarist order. Branicki Palace (Pałac
Branickich) was built for Jan
Klemens Branicki, adviser to
Key August III. This powerful
magnate was known both as
Suggested route
a distinguished soldier and a
connoisseur of fine art. Work
began on the palace in 1740,
0 metres 50
to a design by Jan Zygmunt
0 yards 50 Deybel, and was completed Sarcophagus with the heart of Jan III Sobieski
by Giacopo Fontana. in the Capuchin Church
4 Pac Palace
ul. Miodowa 15. Map 1 C3. Tel 22 634
96 00. @ 116, 175, 180, 195.
Open occasionally.
The Baroque Pac Palace (Pałac

Paca), formerly the residence
of the Radziwiłł family, was
designed and built by Tylman
van Gameren in 1681–97.
One of the palace’s 19th-
century owners, Ludwik Pac,
commissioned the architect
Henryk Marconi to redesign it; Krasiński Palace seen from the palace gardens
work was completed in 1828.
The interiors were decorated legendary ancestor of Jan 7 Przebendowski-
in the Gothic, Renaissance, Dobrogost Krasiński. The Radziwiłłów Palace
Greek and Moorish styles, reliefs are the work of Andreas
and the façade remodelled Schlüter, an outstandingly al. Solidarności 62. Map 1 C3.
Tel 22 826 90 91. @ E-2, 107, 111,
in the Palladian manner. The gifted sculptor and architect
160, 171, 190, 503, 512, 527. v 13,
palace gate was modelled on a who later designed the Arsenal
18, 20, 23, 26, 35. q Ratusz.
triumphal arch and decorated and Royal Castle in Berlin. Independence Museum (Muzeum
with Classical bas-relief Rebuilt after war damage, Niepodległości): Open 10am–5pm
sculptures – the work of the palace now houses a Wed–Sun. & (free on Thu). 8
Ludwik Kaufman, a pupil of collection of antique prints
the celebrated Neo-Classical and manuscripts from the Before World War II, this
sculptor Antonio Canova. National Library. Baroque palace was situated
Today, the palace houses the in a narrow shopping street.
Ministry of Health. When the East–West (W-Z)
6 Arsenal route was constructed (1948–9),
ul. Długa 52. Map 1 B3. Tel 22 831 it suddenly found itself
15 37. @ E-2, 107, 111, 160, 171, surrounded by a major traffic
180, 503, 520. v 4, 15, 18, 20, 23, 26, artery. The palace, which has
35. q Ratusz. ∑ pma.pl the most beautiful mansard
Archaeological Museum: Open roofs in Warsaw and an oval
9am–4pm Mon–Thu & Sat, bow-fronted façade, was
10am–4pm Sun. Closed 3rd Sun in built in 1728 to a design by
the month. & (free on Sun). 8 Jan Zygmunt Deybel. Since
1990 it has housed the
The arsenal was built in 1638–47, Independence Museum
Neo-Classical medallion on the façade in the Baroque style, by (Muzeum Niepodległości),
of Pac Palace Władysław IV Vasa. There, during which features a collection
World War II, boy scout soldiers of documents relating
of the Grey Ranks (the Szare Poland’s history.
5 Krasiński Palace Szeregi, who were actively
pl. Krasińskich 5. Map 1 C2. Tel 22 531 involved in the resistance
02 00. @ 116, 178, 180, 222. Open movement) released 21
during exhibitions. prisoners from the hands of the
Gestapo; this brave action is
Krasiński Palace (Pałac commemorated by a plaque.
Krasińskich), in the Baroque The Arsenal now houses the
style, is regarded as one of Archaeological Museum, with
the most beautiful late exhibits from excavations
17th-century buildings in carried out within both the
Warsaw. It was designed by country’s pre-war and present
Tylman van Gameren and day borders. Also on display are
built between 1687 and 1700 objects from other European
for the mayor of Warsaw, countries, Asia, the Americas
Jan Dobrogost Krasiński. and Africa. The exhibition on
A triangular pediment prehistoric Poland is highly
features ornamental reliefs recommended. By prior
depicting the heroic deeds of arrangement, younger visitors
the Roman patrician Marcus may make clay pots using The Baroque Przebendowski-Radziwiłłów
Valerius (known as Corvinus), a prehistoric methods. Palace, housing the Independence Museum
THE CITY CENTRE 93
8 Plac Bankowy
Map 1 B3 and 1 B4. @ E-2, 107, 111,
127, 171, 180, 512. v 13, 18, 20, 23,
26, 35. q Ratusz. John Paul II
Collection: pl. Bankowy 1. Tel 22 620
27 25. Open 10am–5pm (4pm in
winter) Tue–Sun. &
Today Plac Bankowy (Bank

Square) is one of the busiest
Neo-Classical frieze on the façade of the Grand Theatre
places in Warsaw. Once a quiet
little square, it was radically Opposite the theatre, on the
altered after the construction of
9 Plac Teatralny north side of the square, stood
the East–West route and Ulica Map 1 C4. @ 111. the small Church of St Andrew
Marszałkowska. A statue of Feliks and the enormous, repeatedly
Dzierżyński, the founder of the Before 1944, Plac Teatralny extended Jabłonowski Palace,
Soviet security service, was (Theatre Square) was the heart which was refashioned as the
erected here, and the square of Warsaw. The enormous Neo- town hall in 1817–19. Close
was renamed in his honour. In Classical Grand Theatre by was Blank’s Palace, a late
1989, to the joy of local (Teatr Wielki) on the south Baroque building, which
inhabitants, the statue was side was designed by was owned by Piotr Blank,
removed and the square’s Antonio Corazzi and a banker at the time of
original name restored. Plac Ludwik Kozubowski Stanisław August
Bankowy was once the site of and completed in Poniatowski (1764–95).
the largest synagogue in 1833. The façade is At the beginning of
Warsaw. It was demolished after decorated with a the Nazi occupation of
the collapse of the Ghetto Neo-Classical frieze Poland, the Germans
Uprising of 1943. A tower block by Paweł Maliński arrested Stefan
now stands on the site. The depicting Oedipus Starzyński, the heroic
most interesting buildings are and his companions mayor of Warsaw, in
on the west side of the square. returning from the this building.
The group of Neo-Classical Olympian Games. During the Warsaw
buildings zealously rebuilt after The theatre was Uprising, the poet
World War II were designed by rebuilt and greatly Krzysztof Kamil
Antonio Corazzi. The most enlarged after Baczyński died amid its
impressive is the three-winged suffering war damage. ruins. In the years after
palace of the Commission for Two statues stand in World War II, only
Revenues and Treasury, which front of the building: Blank’s Palace was
today serves as a town hall. one depicts Stanisław rebuilt; Jabłon-
From the junction with Ulica Moniuszko, the father Bogusławski Monument owski Palace and
Elektoralna, visitors can admire of Polish opera (see the church – now
the fine building of the former p32), and the other Wojciech the Church of St Brother Albert
Bank of Poland (Bank Polski) Bogusławski, who instigated the and St Andrew – were rebuilt
and Stock Exchange (Giełda). theatre’s construction. Today it at the end of the 20th century.
The building now houses the is the home of the National The Nike Monument, which
John Paul II Collection, donated Opera and the National Theatre. once stood in Plac Teatralny in
by Janina and Zbigniew In 1848, the Russian memory of Warsaw’s resistance
Porczyński. It consists of composer Mikhail Glinka against the Nazis, was moved
over 450 works by famous (1803–57) lived and worked in to a different site near the East–
artists and is arranged the house at No. 2 Ulica Niecała, West route, where it stands on
thematically. just off Plac Teatralny. a high plinth.
Municipal government buildings on Plac Bankowy

movement. It was conceived

as a monumental building in
the Neo-Renaissance style, with
four wings (only completed
in 1995) and a glass-roofed
inner courtyard.
In order to promote the
work of contemporary Polish
artists, the Society organized
exhibitions and competitions,
and purchased works of art.
The Zachęta’s permanent
collections were transferred to
the National Museum, and the
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in the Saxon Gardens building, as before, now serves
as a venue for temporary
0 Saxon Gardens the uprising led by Tadeusz exhibitions of modern art.
Kościuszko in 1794. It was here in 1922 that
Map 1 B4, 1 C4, 1 C5. @ 102, 107, Saski Palace was destroyed at Gabriel Narutowicz, the first
160, 171, 174. v 4, 15, 18, 35. the end of 1944. All that remains president of the newly
today is the Tomb of the independent Polish Republic,
The Saxon Gardens (Ogród Unknown Soldier, where the was assassinated by Eligiusz
Saski) were laid out between body of a soldier who fell in the Niewiadomski, a Polish painter,
1713 and 1733 by August II, defence of Lvov (1918–19) critic and fanatic.
the Strong, to a design by was interred on 2 November
Jan Krzysztof Naumann 1925. Plans are afoot to
and Mateus Daniel restore the palace to w Evangelical
Pöppelmann. Originally its former glory. Church of the
the royal gardens Augsburg
adjoining Morsztyn
Palace, they became q Zachęta Confession
the basis for a pl. Małachowskiego 3. pl. Małachowskiego 1. Map 1 C5.
Baroque town- Map 1 C5. Tel 22 556 96 Tel 22 556 46 60. @ 102, 174.
planning project in 00. @ E-2, 102, 174.
Warsaw known as the Open noon–8pm Tue– The Evangelical Church of the
Saxon Axis (Osią Saską). Sun. & (free on Thu). Augsburg Confession (Kościół
In 1727 the Saxon ∑ zacheta.art.pl św. Trójcy) was designed by
Gardens became Szymon Bogumił Zug and built
the first public The Zachęta building – in 1777–81. The Neo-Classical
park in Poland, and now the National building is crowned by a dome
for two centuries Gallery of Contemporary 58 m (189 ft) high. For a long
they served as Art – was built in 1899– time the church was the highest
an alfresco Baroque sculpture from 1903 for the Society for building in Warsaw, and bore
“summer salon” for the Saxon Gardens the Promotion of Fine witness to the religious
Varsovians. At the Arts. It was designed by tolerance of the Polish nation
time of August III, Karol Fryderyk Stefan Szyller, the leading and of Stanisław August
Pöppelmann built a Baroque architect of Warsaw’s Revival Poniatowski (1764–95), the last
summer theatre here; this stood period, a 19th- and early king of Poland. The church is
until 1772. Between 1816 and 20th-century architectural reminiscent of the Pantheon
1827, James Savage refashioned
the gardens in the English style.
In 1870 they were graced by an
enormous wooden summer
theatre, which was destroyed in
September 1939, at the start of
World War II. The gardens are
now adorned with 21 Baroque
sandstone statues made by
sculptors including Jan Jerzy
Plersch in the 1730s. There were
once many more statues here;
some were removed to St
Petersburg by Marshal Suvorov,
who recaptured Warsaw during Façade of the Zachęta building (National Gallery of Contemporary Art)
THE CITY CENTRE 95
r Palace of Culture
and Science
pl. Defilad 1. Map 3 A1, 3 B1.
Tel 22 656 76 00. @ 109, 117, 127,
128, 131, 158, 160, 171, 175, 227, 501,
504, 507, 517, 519, 521, 522, 525.
v 4, 7, 8, 9, 15, 17, 22, 24, 25, 35.
q Centre (Centrum). Viewing
platform: Open 10am–6pm daily.
& e m ∑ pkin.pl
Queen Juliana of the

Netherlands is reputed to
have described the Palace of
The interior of the Evangelical Church of the Augsburg Confession Culture and Science (Pałac
Kultury i Nauki) as “modest
in Rome; however, this ancient collections of ethnic and tribal but tasteful”. This enormous
model was merely a starting art from around the world, building – a gift for the people
point from which Zug including Africa, Australia, the of Warsaw from the nations of
developed a unique design. Pacific and Latin America. It the USSR – was built in 1952–5
The interior of the church also mounts occasional to the design of a Russian
features a vast barrel- temporary exhibitions. architect, Lev Rudniev. At the
vaulted nave with In a neighbouring building time, this monument to “the
rectangular transepts. on Ulica Mazowiecka, spirit of invention and social
The west front features a behind a gate with bullet progress” was the second
massive Doric portico marks, is the glass- tallest building in Europe. It
which emphasizes the fronted Artist’s House resembles Moscow’s Socialist
severity of the façade, (Dom Artysty), which Realist tower blocks, and
regarded as one of the contains a modern art although it has only 30 storeys,
outstanding examples gallery. Also on Ulica with its spire it is 230 m 68 cm
of Neo-Classical Mazowiecka are several (750 ft) high. Its volume is
architecture in Poland. bookshops, the best of over 800,000 cubic m
The interior, with its which are at the (28 million cubic ft) and it
double tier of galleries Sacred figure, intersection with contains 40 million bricks. It
supported by columns, Ethnographical Ulica Świętokrzyska. is said to incorporate many
has excellent acoustics Museum Up until the architectural and decora-
and is used for choral beginning of World tive elements taken from
and other concerts. War II, Ziemiańska, a very stately homes after
famous café, was to World War II. Despite
be found at No. 22 the passage of time,
e Ethnographical
Ulica Mazowiecka. this symbol of Soviet
Museum This was where the domination still
ul. Kredytowa 1. Map 1 C5. Tel 22 827 cream of society provokes extreme
76 41/5. @ 102, 105, 107, 174. Open and the artistic reactions, from
9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, community met to admiration to
noon–5pm Sun. Closed public hols. exchange ideas and demands for its
& (free on Sat). e d m 8 = gossip over coffee. demolition.
The Ethnographical Museum

(Muzeum Etnograficzne) is
housed in a Neo-Renaissance
building on the south side of
Plac Małachowski. The former
head office of the Land Credit
Association, it was built in 1854–
8, to a design by Henryk Marconi,
an Italian architect who settled
in Warsaw. It recalls the Libreria
Sansoviniana in Venice, and is
one of the city’s finest
19th-century buildings. The
museum contains permanent
displays of Polish folk costumes,
folklore and arts and crafts, and Palace of Culture and Science, reminiscent of a Socialist Realist tower block
y Pawiak Prison
ul. Dzielna 24/26. Map 1 A2. Tel 22
831 13 17. @ 107, 111, 180. v 15,
18, 33, 35. Open 9:30am–5pm Wed–
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 7
=m
Pawiak Prison was built in the

1830s by Henryk Marconi. It
became notorious during the
Nazi occupation, when it was
used to imprison Poles and
Jews arrested by the Germans.
Now in ruins, Pawiak serves as
a museum. In front of the ruin
Interior of Nożyk Synagogue stands a long-dead tree,
covered with obituary notices
t Nożyk closed for worship and the for prisoners who died there.
German forces used it as a
Synagogue warehouse. Reopened in 1945,
ul. Twarda 6. Map 1 A5. Tel 22 620 43 it was eventually (1977–83)
24. @ 109, 160, 178. Jewish Historical restored to its original condition.
Institute: ul. Tłomackie 3/5. Tel 22 827 Of a total population of no
92 21. more than 1,300,000, there were
about 400,000 Jews in Warsaw
Nożyk Synagogue was founded before World War II; the city had
by Zelman and Ryfka Nożyk, the second largest Jewish
who in 1893 donated the land population after that of New
on which it was to be built. York. The northern part of
Later they left half of their estate Warsaw, which was inhabited
to the Orthodox Jewish predominantly by Jews, was
community. The synagogue was densely built up, with many
built between 1898 and 1902. tenement blocks. The languages
The interior has an impressive spoken in the area were Yiddish,
portico, crowned by a metal Hebrew and also Russian, spoken Tree with obituary notices in front of
dome bearing the Star of David, by Jews who had fled Russia. Pawiak Prison
which contains the Torah Ark. In Those interested in Jewish
the centre of the nave is a raised history and culture should also
u Umschlagplatz
pulpit known as a bema. The visit the historic – though
nave is surrounded by galleries overgrown – cemetery on Monument
that were originally intended for Ulica Okopowa, the Museum of ul. Stawki. Map 1 A1. @ 157.
female worshippers. the History of the Polish Jews v 15, 18, 33.
Today, this is the only active (see opposite) and the Jewish
synagogue in Warsaw. When it Historical Institute (Żydowski The Umschlagplatz Monument,
was built, it was hidden away in Instytut Historyczny), with unveiled in 1988, marks the
the heart of a housing estate, a library, archives and site of a former railway siding
surrounded by high-rise Judaic museum. on Ulica Dzika. The German
tenement buildings. After the word Umschlagplatz translates
war, few of these were still as “collection point”. It was
standing. During the Nazi from this location that some
occupation, the synagogue was 300,000 Jews from the
Umschlagplatz Monument on the Path of Remembrance

THE CITY CENTRE 97
Warsaw Ghetto and elsewhere but as an honourable way to

were summarily loaded onto die. It lasted one month.
cattle trucks and dispatched Reliefs on the monument
to almost certain death in the depict men, women and
extermination camps. Among children struggling to flee the
them was Janusz Korczak and burning ghetto, together with
his group of Jewish orphans. a procession of Jews being
Living conditions in the ghetto driven to death camps under
were inhuman, and by 1942 the threat of Nazi bayonets.
more than 100,000 of the In front of this monument,
inhabitants had died. The on 7 December 1970, Willy
monument, on which the Brandt, Chancellor of West
architect Hanna Szmalenberg Germany, knelt in homage to
and the sculptor Władysław the murdered victims. Today,
Klamerus collaborated, is people come here from all
made of blocks of black and over the world to remember
white marble resembling an the heroes of the Uprising.
open cattle truck and bearing
the names of hundreds of
Warsaw’s Jews. o Museum of
Between the Monument Monument to the Heroes of the the History of
to the Heroes of the Ghetto Ghetto (detail)
and the Umschlagplatz Polish Jews
Monument runs the Trail i Monument to ul. Mordechaja Anielewicza 6.
of Jewish Martyrdom and the Heroes of the Map 1 B2. Tel 22 471 03 01. Open
Struggle, unveiled in 1988. 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (to 8pm Sat).
It is marked by 16 blocks of Ghetto Closed public hols. & e 0 =
granite bearing inscriptions ul. Zamenhofa. Map 1 B2. @ 111, 8 ∑ polin.pl/en
in Polish, Hebrew and Yiddish 180, 227.
and the date 1940–43. The The country’s largest Jewish
site of a bunker, in which the The Monument to the Heroes heritage museum takes visitors
uprising’s commanders blew of the Ghetto (Pomnik on a journey through 1,000
themselves up, has been Bohaterów Getta) was erected years of the history of Polish
specially marked. Each block in 1948, when the city of Jews – from the Middle Ages,
is dedicated to the memory Warsaw still lay in ruins. when the Jewish community
of the 450,000 Jews murdered Created by the sculptor Natan first settled here, until the
in the Warsaw Ghetto in the Rapaport and the architect present day. The fascinating
years 1940–43, to the heroes Marek Suzin, it symbolizes the displays illustrate how the
of the Ghetto Uprising in 1943 heroic defiance of the Ghetto country became the centre of
and to certain key individuals Uprising of 1943, which was the Jewish diaspora and the
from that momentous time. planned not as a bid for liberty home of the largest Jewish
community in the world.
Ghetto Uprising
The Nazis created the p Monument
Jewish ghetto on to those Fallen
16 November 1940. The
area was carefully isolated and Murdered
with barbed wire fencing, in the East
which was later replaced
ul. Muranowska. Map 1 C1. @ 116,
with brick walls. Over
157, 178, 503. v 6, 15, 18.
450,000 people were
crowded into the ghetto: This emotionally stirring
Jews from Warsaw and monument, designed by
other parts of Poland as
Mirosław Biskupski, has the form
well as gypsies. In March
of a typical railway wagon in
1942 the Germans began
to liquidate the ghetto, which Poles were deported from
deporting over 300,000 people to the death camp in Treblinka. the country into the depths of
The Ghetto Uprising, which began on 19 April 1943 and lasted the Soviet Union. It is filled with
one month, was organized by the secret Jewish Fighting a pile of crosses symbolizing the
Organization. Following the suppression of the Uprising, hundreds of thousands of Poles
the Nazis razed the whole area to the ground. carted off to the East in cattle
vans and murdered in Soviet
prison camps.
Further Afield
There are many places of interest outside the centre of
Warsaw. The most important lie along the Royal Route
stretching from the Royal Castle in the north to Wilanów
in the south, and also on the edges of the escarpment that
runs down to the left bank of the River Vistula; here there
are several country mansions with extensive parks. Most
Grave of Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Church
can be reached by tram or by bus.
of St Stanisław Kostka
Olsztyn Białystok Białystok Sights at a Glance

Gdańsk
61
0 km 3 1 Church of St Stanisław Kostka

9
62
637
0 miles 3 2 Centre for Contemporary Art

3 Łazienki Park
631
580 4 Belvedere Palace
7
63
Poznań 5 Królikarnia Palace
629
6 Church of St Anthony
Brest
7 Warsaw Rising Museum
Poznań V is tu la 8 Wilanów Palace
9
71
Łódź
631
Key
80
1
City centre
Łódź
72
Main road
4
79
Other road
7
Lublin
8
Krakow Radom Lublin
1 Church of St 2 Centre for on a scale unequalled

elsewhere in Europe. The
Stanisław Kostka Contemporary Art centre is housed in Ujazdowski
ul. Hozjusza 2. Tel 22 839 45 72. Jazdów 2. Map 3 C5. Tel 22 628 12 71. Castle, an early Baroque
@ 114, 116, 122, 157, 181, 185, @ E-2, 116, 138, 166, 180, 182, 187, fortification built at the
303, 503. v 6, 15. 188, 411, 502, 503, 514, 520, 523, beginning of the 17th century
525. Open noon–7pm Tue–Sun for Zygmunt III Vasa and his son
(to 9pm Fri). & (free on Thu).
The Modernist Church of St Władysław IV. The castle’s layout
8=md0
Stanisław Kostka (Kościół św. was spacious – it had an internal
Stanisława Kostki), set among cloistered courtyard and four
the villas of Żoliborz, is the The Centre for Contemporary towers – but its splendour was
burial place of Father Jerzy Art (Centrum Sztuki destined to be short-lived; the
Popiełuszko, the pastor of the Współczesnej) organizes Swedish army sacked it in 1655
Solidarity movement who was exhibitions of the work of and it later changed hands
beatified in 2010. Because of artists from all over the world repeatedly, being rebuilt many
this it is a place of pilgrimage times. During World War II,
for Poles. Popiełuszko was a Ujazdowski Castle was
national hero, renowned for his destroyed by fire. The ruins
courageous sermons in defence were completely removed in
of Poland’s freedom. He was 1953 and rebuilding of the
eventually murdered in 1984 by castle only began in the 1970s.
Communist security agents. Refreshments are available
His grave is in the church in a room called the Qchnia
cemetery; it is covered with a Artystyczna, which is decorated
stone cross and surrounded in an original – if perhaps mad –
by linked rocks arranged in manner and which commands
the manner of a rosary. The exquisite views from the
church itself is distinguished escarpment.
by its openwork twin towers.
Inside, there are Baroque
paintings by the Silesian Ujazdowski Castle, the home of
3 Łazienki Park
artist Michael Willmann. the Centre for Contemporary Art See pp100–101.

FURTHER AFIELD 99
4 Belvedere Palace 5 Królikarnia

ul. Belwederska 52. @ 116, 166, 180, Palace
503. Closed to the public; access to ul. Puławska 113a. Tel 22 843 15 86.
exhibition with prior reservation – @ 218. v 4, 10, 14, 31, 35. Open
call 022 695 19 53. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu).
& (free on Thu). 8 d no flash.
The history of Belvedere Palace m ∑ krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl
(Belweder) goes back to the
17th century. Its present Królikarnia Palace (Pałacyk
appearance, however, dates Królikarnia) owes its name
from 1818, when it was (“rabbit hutch”) to the fact that
refashioned by Jakub Kubicki it stands on the site of a rabbit
for the Russian governor farm that belonged to August II
general Prince Constantine in the 1700s. It is a square
(the much hated brother of building covered with a dome,
Tsar Alexander I) and his recalling Andrea Palladio’s
Polish aristocrat wife. On the masterpiece, the Villa Rotonda,
night of 29 November 1830, near Vicenza. This
a detachment of cadet exquisite little Baroque Church of St Anthony at
officers, together with Neo-Classical Czerniaków
a number of students, palace is set in a
attacked the palace, garden on the The Baroque Church of
starting the November slope of the St Anthony (Kościół św.
Insurrection, which escarpment in Antoniego), built between 1687
lasted almost a year. the district of and 1693 by the monks of the
After 1918, Belvedere Mokotów. It was Bernardine order, was designed
Palace became the designed by Dominik by Tylman van Gameren. The
official residence of the Merlini for Karol de church stands on the site of the
presidents of Poland, Valery Thomatis, the former village of Czerniaków,
including Marshal director of Stanisław which belonged to Stanisław
Józef Piłsudski (1867– August Poniatowski’s Herakliusz Lubomirski, the
1935), to whom an royal theatres. Grand Crown Marshal.
exhibition situated Today the palace The relatively plain façade of
in the palace houses the this church belies its ornate
is devoted. Xawery interior, which includes trompe
To the south Fatum, a sculpture by Xawery Dunikowski l’oeil paintings, stuccowork and
of the palace, on Dunikowski in Królikarnia Park Museum, altars by the painter Francesco
the former site dedicated to this Antonio Giorgiolo and the
of the Ujazdowski Church, contemporary Polish sculptor. renowned sculptor Andreas
a terrace was built with a Schlüter, among others. The
landscaped park at the foot 6 Church of
main theme of the paintings is
of the escarpment. It was the life of St Anthony of Padua.
adorned with canals, a pool St Anthony
and several romantic pavilions ul. Czerniakowska 2/4. Tel 22 842 03 7 Warsaw Rising
in Greek, Egyptian and Gothic 71. @ 131, 159, 162, 180, 185, 187.
styles. These grounds are now Open by appt only, or during Museum
part of Łazienki Park. ceremonies. ul. Grzybowska 79. Tel 22 539 79 05.
@ 105, 109, 159. v 1, 8, 22, 24.
Open 8am–6pm Mon, Wed–Fri (to
8pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &
(free on Sun). 8 9 = ∑ 1944.pl
One of the most popular

museums in Warsaw opened
in 2004 to commemorate the
60th anniversary of the Warsaw
Rising in 1944. A tribute to
those who fought and died
for Poland’s independence,
the museum re-creates the
atmosphere during those 63
days of military struggle, but it
also conveys what everyday life
Façade of the Neo-Classical Belvedere Palace, looking onto the gardens was like under Nazi occupation.
3 Łazienki Park
Łazienki Park is part of a great complex of heritage gardens.
In the 17th century there was a royal menagerie along the
foot of the escarpment. In 1674, Grand Crown Marshal
Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski acquired the park and,
engaging the services of Tylman van Gameren, he altered
the southern part of the menagerie, building a hermitage
and a bathing pavilion on an island. The pavilion gave the
park its name (Łazienki meaning “baths”). In the second Peacock
half of the 18th century, the park was owned by Stanisław Just as in Stanisław August
August Poniatowski, who commissioned Karol Ludwik Poniatowski’s time, visitors to
Łazienki Park can admire the
Agricola, Karol Schultz and later Jan Christian Schuch to peacocks and take a boat ride
lay it out as a formal garden. Lubomirski’s baths were on the lake, which is full of carp.
refashioned into a royal residence, Łazienki Palace, or
Palace on the Water, which is now a museum.
Old Orangery
In 1774–8, Dominik Merlini created the
Stanisławowski Theatre in the Old Orangery.
It is one of the few remaining 18th-century
court theatres in the world.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Monument to Chopin
This Secessionist monument
was sculpted in 1908 by
Wacław Szymanowski but
not unveiled until 1926.
Positioned at the side of a
lake, it depicts Poland’s most
celebrated composer sitting
under a willow tree, seeking
inspiration from nature.
Temple of the Sibyl

This Neo-Classical building, based on
an ancient Greek temple, dates from
the 1820s. It is made of wood.
FURTHER AFIELD 101
Łazienki Królewskie, ul. Agrykola 1.
Map 3 C5. Tel 22 506 01 01.
Park: Open daily until dusk.
Palace on the Water: Open
9am–6pm Tue–Sun. & (free on
Thu). Myślewicki Palace: Open
11am–4pm Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–
Sun. & Old Orangery: Open as
Myślewicki Palace. & (free Thu).
. Palace on the Water 8 ∑ lazienki-krolewskie.pl
Stanisław Lubomirski’s 17th-century baths were
converted (1772–93) into the Palace on the Water, Transport
@ 108, 116, 138, 166, 180,
Stanisław August Poniatowski’s summer home.
187, 503.
Myślewicki Palace
Dominik Merlini designed the early Neo-Classical
Myślewicki Palace in 1775–84 for Stanisław August
Poniatowski’s nephew, Prince Józef Poniatowski.
. Theatre on the Island

The stage of the Theatre on the Island has a permanent
backdrop imitating the ruins of a temple in the ancient
city of Baalbek, Lebanon.
New Orangery
This building in cast
iron and glass was
designed by Józef
Orłowski and Adam
Loewe in 1860–61.
8 Wilanów Palace
The small Chinese
Wilanów Palace was built at the end Pavilion stands in
of the 17th century as the summer the English-style
residence of Jan III Sobieski. This garden on the north
side of the palace.
illustrious monarch, who valued family
life as much as material splendour,
commissioned Augustyn Locci to
build a modest country house. Later
the palace was extended and adorned
by renowned architects and artists
including Andreas Schlüter and
Michelangelo Palloni.
Great Crimson
Room
Originally a three-
room apartment,
the Great Crimson
Room was
reconstructed in
1900 to house the
museum’s array of
foreign paintings.
Main Gateway
Dating from the time of Jan III Sobieski,
the Main Gateway is crowned with
allegorical figures of War and Peace.
. Poster Museum
A former riding school rebuilt in the 1960s
now houses the Poster Museum, the first
of its kind in Europe.

FURTHER AFIELD 103
ul. SK Potockiego 10/16. Tel 22
544 27 00. Palace: Open 9:30am–
4pm Mon–Sat (6pm Mon & Sat,
8pm Wed), 10:30am–6pm Sun;
Oct–Apr: closes at 4pm. Closed
Jan, Tue (Oct–Apr). & (free Sun).
Park: Open 9am–dusk. & 8
m=-^d
∑ wilanow-palac.art.pl
. Rose Garden
This section of Wilanów’s garden was created in Transport
@ E-2, 116, 164, 180, 317, 379,
the 19th century to the south of the palace.
519, 700, 710, 724, 725, 742.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
. Queen’s
Antechamber
The walls are
covered with original
Baroque fabric while
the ceiling has alle-
gorical paintings.
Rear Façade of the Palace

Open perspectives allow the rear façade of the
palace to be seen from across the park, and
even from the adjoining fields of Morysin.
King’s Bedchamber
The bed canopy is made of
fabric brought back by Jan
III Sobieski from his victory
against the Turks at the
Battle of Vienna in 1683.
WARSAW S T RE E T FI NDER
The coordinates given alongside the following number are grid references.
names of buildings and attractions in On the plan opposite, Warsaw is divided
Warsaw refer to the street plan on into four sectors corresponding to the four
pages 106–9. Map coordinates are also maps on pages 106–9. The symbols that
given alongside information about appear on the maps are explained in the
Warsaw hotels (see p302) and restaurants key below. The plan of the city identifies
(see pp310–11). The first digit indicates the the most important monuments and
relevant map number; the letter and places of interest.
Key
Major sight
Place of interest
Other building
Railway station
Tram stop
Metro station
Tourist information
Hospital or first aid
Police station
Church
Summer café garden in the Old Town
Railway line
Pedestrianized street
Scale of Maps 1–4

0 metres 250
0 yards 250
Marathon runners on Krakowskie Przedmieście
Façade of the Neo-Classical Grand Theatre

designed by Antonio Corazzi, on Plac Teatralny Church of the Holy Spirit from Ulica Freta
WARSAW STREE T FINDER 105
STAWKI MU
RA
NO
WS
KA
SA
ND ER
II
MO R D E C H A JA
WA A
ANIE L EW I C ZA
PAW ŁA
Old and
A
AD Y S Ł New Towns
GEN. WŁ
JAN A
AL .
ŚCI
AL. SOL IDA RNO
The City
Vis
Centre
CIE
tul
IEŚ
a
DM
RZ E
KI E P
KRÓ LEWSKA
OW S
KR AK
ŚWIĘT OKRZY SKA

MAR SZAŁKOW SKA
The
Royal Route
AL.J ERO ZOLI MSK
IE
AL. JERO ZOLI MSK
IE
O
G
IE
SK
K R U C ZKO W
A
SK
W
TO
O
OK
M
R O Z B R AT
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Fountain in Saxon Gardens Statue of The Mermaid in the Old Town

PO KO RN
A
OW
D Z IK
Umschlagplatz ARK
Monument MIĘ D Z Y P
STA WK I
A
STAWK I
NISKA
NISKA Monument to those Fallen
and Murdered in the East
G O M
BO NI FR AT
IE NO URA-
RS KA
SK KO NW IK TO
WS
KA
W
KARMELIC KA
MIŁ A O
MIŁA
MIŁA
A RT
SA
W
LE
ER SK A
DER
D
KA
SA PIE ŻY ŃS
U
EGO
LEW ART OW SKI
BO
IS
Monument to
N
the Heroes of
ZAM ENH OFA
A A
the Ghetto
Museum of the History
A
ŁOW
of Polish Jews
AW
FRANC ISZKA ŃSKA
NAL EWK I
WA
N O W IN
A N IE LE
YSŁ
AL. JANA PAWŁ A II
W IC ZA
IA RS K
KAR MEL ICKA
AD
ZAMENHOFA
Pawiak PAW IA
A
. WŁ
Prison
ŚWIĘTOJE RSKA
DZIELNA DZIELNA PLAC
KRASIŃSKICH
GEN
Krasiński
Palace Monument
OGRÓD to the 1944
KRASIŃSKICH Warsaw Uprising
NOW OLI PKI
NOW OLI PKI
MURANÓW
BOHATERÓ W GETTA
Field Cathedral
KARMEL ICKA
A
UG
NOWOLIPIE DŁ
Arsenał
RA
NOWOL IPIE
LE
SCHIL
Pac
Palace
Capuchin
Ratusz
OL IDARNOŚ Church
AL. S CI
AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI
KA
Przebendowski-Radziwiłłow
WS
Palace Nike
CZO
Monument
BI
Municipal CORAZZIEGO I
EL
NO EJA
PR
Government Building OW
Z
Ł
W ZD
A
N I Church of
Y
Ń
DA
SK
Saints Albert
ORLA
OGRODOWA and Andrew

A
John Paul II PLAC

BANKOWY
Collection
SENATORS KA PLAC
TEATRALNY
ELEK TOR ALN A
MOLIERA
WI
CA
ELEK TOR ALN A

A
NA
Saski
ER
NI
ZIMN A
LE
Hotel
OD
ZB
TT
Reformationist
CH
OW
Church
ZE
PTAS IA Grand
PR
CI EP ŁA
ŁA Theatre
A
CA
NIE
A II
P TA S
IA
Mirowski Hall
K RO CH
PAW Ł
M A LN -
A
PLAC
ŻELAZNEJ OGRÓD
BRAMY
SASKI
ZNA
Tomb of
PLAC
ANA
the Unknown
N IC
Soldier MARSZ.
PIŁSUD-
GRA
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POLAND
REGION BY
REGION
Poland at a Glance 112–113

Mazovia and the
Lublin Region 114–131
Krakow 132–151
Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 152–179
Silesia 180–211
Wielkopolska
(Greater Poland) 212–235
Gdańsk 236–255
Pomerania 256–279
Warmia, Mazuria and
Białystok Region 280–295
112 POLAND REGION BY REGION
Poland at a Glance The Gdańsk

Crane (see p243) is
While southern Poland consists of a band of one of the largest
mountains and uplands, Central Poland is a land European cranes
dating from the
of endless plains. In the north, a postglacial Middle Ages.
landscape dominates, and the Baltic coast, Restored after war
though fairly cool, has beautiful sandy beaches. damage, it stands
Its provinces also offer unblemished natural as a symbol of
the city’s former
landscapes. The Tatra Mountains, the highest commercial might.
in Poland, are traversed by well-marked
footpaths, from which fine views and a pure
alpine environment can be enjoyed. In
addition, many historic buildings have
survived in regional Poland, despite the
country’s stormy history. GDAŃSK
(See pp236–55)
Koszalin
Elbląg
POMERANIA
(See pp256–79)
Szczecin
Piła Bydgoszcz
Toruń
Gorzów Wlkp.
Włocławek
Poznań
Many of the attractive sandy Rogalin
beaches (see p265) on the Baltic Zielona
Góra WIELKOPOLSKA
Sea are backed by cliffs, which are (GREATER POLAND)
vulnerable to storm damage. (See pp212–35)
Łódź
SILESIA
(See pp180–211)
Wrocław
Częstochowa
Opole
Raczyński Palace (see pp218–19)

at Rogalin is one of the most Katowice
splendid residences in Greater
Poland. The late Baroque palace
now houses a museum of
interiors and a valuable collection
of paintings. It is surrounded by a
beautiful park with ancient oaks.
The town hall in

Wrocław (see p197) is one
0 kilometres 75
of the most interesting
0 miles 75 late Medieval buildings
in Central Europe. It is
crowned with unusual
finials and fine stone
sculptures.
Aerial view of the Renaissance architecture in the picturesque small town of Kazimierz Dolny
P O L A N D AT A G L A N C E 113
The Mazurian Lake District (see pp290–91), known as

“The Land of a Thousand Lakes”, is a wilderness, with
great forests, extensive woods and marshlands, and
brick-built houses, Gothic churches and castles. Its pure
character, unspoilt by civilization, is appreciated by
storks: more nest here than anywhere else in Europe.
In Kazimierz Dolny (see p125), under the

Renaissance colonnades of the town
houses in the market square, paintings
Olsztyn Augustów are on display and wicker baskets offered
WARMIA, MAZURIA AND for sale. Fortune-telling gypsies mingle
BIAŁYSTOK REGION among the tourists.
(See pp280–95)
Białystok
WARSAW
(See pp62–109)
MAZOVIA AND THE

LUBLIN REGION
(See pp114–31)
Radom The Cloth Hall in Krakow (see p137), an unusual
Kazimierz Lublin building in the centre of Main Market Square, once
Dolny
contained market stalls. Today it is filled with shops
selling souvenirs and local folk art, and popular cafés.
On the first floor there is a splendid gallery of
19th-century Polish art.
MAŁOPOLSKA Zamość
(LESSER POLAND)
(See pp152–79)
Rzeszów
KRAKOW
(See pp132–51)
Krasiczyn
Krasiczyn Castle (see p176), dating

from the early 17th century, is
defended by sturdy towers. The
walls have elaborate parapets.
POLAND REGION BY REGION 115
MAZOVIA AND THE

LUBLIN REGION
In the nostalgic lowland landscape of Mazovia, sandy
roads wind through the fields, lines of windswept willows
stand in isolation, and meadows stretch to the edge of
valleys where swift rivers flow. For centuries, Podlasie was the
borderland between the Poles and the eastern Slavonic peoples.
The hilly Lublin region has many excellent examples of Renaissance
and Baroque architecture.
For centuries, Mazovia was, both culturally politically active yet conservative petty
and economically, one of the least yeoman-gentry. Even today, in the east of
developed areas of the ethnically Polish the region and in Podlasie, farmsteads,
lands of the Commonwealth of Two with humble cottages built in the style
Nations. In the early Middle Ages it was of mansions, can be seen. Apart from
the homeland of the Mazowie tribe. It was Warsaw, the towns of Mazovia have
united with the state of the Polanie under always been modest, and this is evident
Prince Mieszko I (963–92). The Principality even today in more recent buildings and
of Mazovia came into existence in 1138, modern urban planning.
during the division of Poland, and it After the Congress of Vienna (1815),
preserved its independence for nearly 400 Mazovia and the Lublin region formed
years. Mazovia was incorporated into the part of the Congress Kingdom, under
Kingdom of Poland in 1526 after the death Russian rule. In 1918, the whole area
of the last Mazovian princes, and in 1596, was returned to the reborn Poland.
Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital of The Lublin area differs considerably
the Commonwealth of Two Nations from from Mazovia, in both landscape and
Krakow to Warsaw, in Mazovia. culture. Its architectural jewel is the
Mazovia’s cultural distinctiveness has delightful town of Kazimierz Dolny,
been influenced by the presence of a on the banks of the Vistula.
Mazovia – a region famous for its orchards

Detail of a colourful and beautifully decorated building on Zamosc’s Main Market Square
Exploring Mazovia and the Lublin Region

The Kampinoska Forest (Puszcza Kampinoska), a national
park, extends out from the suburbs of Warsaw. There are also
large tracts of woodland, with wild animals, in the north and Olsztyn
south of Mazovia. The Lublin region has a more diverse
Or
landscape. The gorge of the Vistula, around the town Mława yc
z
of Kazimierz Dolny, is one of the region’s most
Przasnysz
beautiful sights. Roztocze and Zamość, widely
ra
described as the “pearl of the Renaissance”, Wk
Toruń OPINOGÓRA
are also very picturesque. Mazovia has CIECHANÓW Róźan
ruins of brick-built castles, and in both
Raciąź Narew
regions there are many country
Wk
mansions. Żelazowa Wola is W hit e
ra
PUŁTUSK Fores t
Fryderyk Chopin’s birthplace and Płońsk
Wyszków
nearby Łowicz is a well-known
centre of folklore. Łąck
PŁOCK MA ZO W I E C K I E
Vist Serock
ul
a CZERWIŃSK
Kutno
Wyszogród Legionowo
Kampinoska Forest
Wołomin
Brochów ŻELAZOWA
WOLA WARSAW
Sochaczew
ŁOWICZ Piaseczno
Łódź
NIEBORÓW Zyrardów
ARKADIA Góra
Kalwaria
Skierniewice
Grójec
CZERSK
The house of the novelist Stefan Żeromski Rawa
Mazowiecka Warka
(1864–1925) in Nałęczów
ca
Mogielnica i
Pil
Kozienice
Sights at a Glance Nowe Miasto
Częstochowa nad Pilicą
1 Płock
2 Ciechanów
3 Opinogóra
Przysucha RADOM
4 Pułtusk
5 Czerwińsk on the Vistula Chlewiska Oroŉsk
6 Żelazowa Wola
7 Łowicz SZYDŁOWIEC
8 Arkadia
IŁŻA
9 Nieborów
0 Treblinka
q Węgrów
w Czersk
e Radom
r Szydłowiec
t Iłża
u Kazimierz Dolny
i Lublin pp126–7
o Kozłówka
p Radzyń Podlaski
a Chełm
s Zamość pp130–31
Tours
y A Tour around
Kazimierz Dolny Landscape of Roztocze, in the Lublin uplands
MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION 117
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
Ostrołęka Regional border
Białystok
Ostrów Detail of the Romanesque portal of the church in Czerwińsk

Mazowiecka
on the Vistula
TREBLINKA
Getting Around
Stara Wieś Warsaw, the chief city of Mazovia, has regular air
WĘGRÓW links to major cities worldwide and to principal
Liw towns in Poland. All the larger towns in both
regions have rail links. Travelling by
Kałuszyn Łosice express from Warsaw to Lublin
Siedlce Kobrin takes a little over two hours. All
Mińsk places recommended in this
Mazowiecki
Biała guidebook are accessible by
Podlaska
bus. However, many of the
smaller ones are more easily
Łuków Międzyrzec
Garwolin Podlaski reached by car. Highway E30
crosses Mazovia from east
Żelechów to west. From Warsaw, take
RADZYŃ highway E77 for Radom and
PODLASKI
highway 17 for Lublin.
Kock
Deblin L UB E LS K I E
A TOUR AROUND Włodawa
KAZIMIERZ DÓLNY Polesian
Lubartów
National
Park 0 kilometres 25
Zwoleń Puławy KOZŁÓWKA
0 miles 25
Janowiec Nałęczów
KAZIMIERZ Łęczna
DOLNY LUBLIN
CHEŁM
Krasnystaw
Kraśnik Wy ż y n a
Lubelska
Kielce Hrubieszów
Janów Szczebrzeszyn
Lubelski ZAMOŚĆ
Frampol
Rzesów Biłgoraj
Tomaszów
Lubelski
Tanew
Lviv

R Cathedral of Our Lady

of Mazovia
ul. Tumska 3. Tel 24 262 34 35.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–
2pm Sun (use the side entrance).
The most interesting part of
Płock is Tum Hill (Wzgórze
Tumskie), with its Renaissance
Cathedral of Our Lady of
Mazovia and castle remains.
The cathedral, built in 1531–5
was the first large Renaissance
church in Poland. It was raised
by Andrzej Krzycki, Bishop of
Płock, later Primate of Poland
and a noted scholar and poet.
The nave of the Renaissance cathedral Giovanni Cini and Bernardino
in Płock Zanobi de Gianotis were the
architects, with later rebuilding The Neo-Classical town hall in the Old
1 Płock by Gianbattista of Venice. The Market Square in Płock
interior of the cathedral is full
Road map D3. * 122,000. £ @ of Renaissance and Baroque which date from the 1400s.
n ul. Stary Rynek 8 (24 367 19 44).
tombstones. A marble The museum also possesses
∑ plock.eu
sarcophagus in the Royal woven sashes from the old
Chapel holds the remains court dress of the nobility
This city, beautifully situated of Władysław I and his son (see pp34–5). Sashes were
on the high Vistula Bluff, is Bołesław III. The grand Neo- often made into vestments.
best known today for its large Renaissance façade of the
petrochemical plants. Its history, cathedral, with its twin towers, E Museum of Mazovia
however, goes back many was built at the start of the ul. Tumska 8. Tel 24 364 70 71. Open
centuries. From 1075, Płock was 20th century to a controversial 1 May–14 Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun;
the seat of the bishopric of design by Stefan Szyller, 15 Oct–30 Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
Mazovia. Under Władysław I who was in charge of the & (free on Thu).
(1079–1102) and his heir restoration work. The Museum of Mazovia
Bołesław III Wrymouth (1102– (Muzeum Mazowieckie) is
1138), Płock was the capital of E Diocesan Museum located in a former monastery
Poland and the favoured royal ul. Tumska 3a. Tel 24 262 26 23. and houses one of the largest
seat. From 1138 to the end of Open May–Sep: 10am–3pm Tue–Sat, collections of Art Nouveau in
the 15th century, Płock was the 11am–4pm Sun & public hols; the world. Exhibits include
place of residence of the Oct–Apr: 10am–1pm Wed–Sat, reconstructions of domestic
Mazovian and Płock princes. 11am–2pm Sun & public hols. interiors, with works of art,
& 8 ∑ mdplock.pl
In the 12th century, it was an furniture, textiles and everyday
important centre of political The Diocesan Museum objects of the period.
and cultural life in Poland. (Muzeum Diecezjalne) contains
The buildings of old Płock a rich collection of cathedral Environs
are relatively modest, although treasures. Especially noteworthy There are sports facilities on
the small Neo-Classical are the gold vessels and Lake Włocławek, a reservoir on
houses, now restored, make liturgical textiles, particularly the Vistula, and a stud farm at
a picturesque ensemble. the chasubles, the oldest of Łąck, 9 km (5 miles) from Płock.
Particularly noteworthy is the
Neo-Classical town hall, built in
1824–7 to a design by Jakub
Kubicki. Here, on 23 September
1831 during the uprising against
Russian rule, the final session of
the insurgent Sejm of the
Kingdom of Poland was held.
Another notable building is
the large Neo-Gothic cathedral
(1911–19) of the Mariavite
Church of Poland. Also worth
seeing are the Baroque church,
the Classical toll-gates and the
remains of the Gothic city walls. Tum Hill from the Vistula, with the cathedral and Benedictine abbey
Gothic brick tower, houses the

small Regional Museum. Of
equal interest is the Gothic-
Renaissance collegiate church,
with barrel vaulting over the nave
executed by Gianbattista of
Venice in 1551 and 1556.
To the south of the market
square rise the walls of the
castle of the bishops of Płock.
Destroyed and rebuilt a number
of times, it incorporates
Renaissance, Baroque and
Neo-Classical elements. After
restoration work in the 1980s
Ruins of the Gothic Castle of the Mazovian princes in Ciechanów the House of the Polish
Diaspora (Dom Polonii) was set
2 Ciechanów 3 Opinogóra up here. Visitors can stay in the
Road map E3. * 44,000. Road map E3. * 580. £ @ hotel and enjoy tennis,
£ @ n ul. Warszawska 34. canoeing, rowing, horse riding
∑ umciechanow.pl Opinogóra is closely associated and winter sledging parties.
with Count Zygmunt Krasiński The old-time Polish kitchen,
On the edge of the town stand (1812–59), a leading poet of the which serves home-made fruit
the Gothic ruins of the red-brick Romantic movement. The tiny and berry liqueurs and home-
Castle of the Mazovian princes, Neo-Gothic mansion, situated in baked sourdough bread, is
built around 1420–30. After an extensive landscaped park, recommended. Also worth
Mazovia was incorporated into was built as a wedding present seeing in the old town is the
the Kingdom of Poland, the for him. According to the locals, 18th-century Jesuit Church of
widowed Queen Bona often it was designed by the French Saints Peter and Paul.
stayed here. Today, the castle architect Eugène Emmanuel
accommodates one of the Viollet-le-Duc, although art E Regional Museum
exhibitions of the Museum of historians attribute it to Henryk Rynek 41. Tel 23 692 51 32.
the Mazovian Nobility (Muzeum Marconi. Today, the mansion Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun & public
Szlachty Mazowieckiej). houses the Museum of hols. & (free on Thu).
In the town itself is the Gothic Romanticism (Muzeum
Church of the Annunciation, Romantyzmu). Environs
founded in the first half of the The romantic park in which Near the town, on the right bank
16th century and rebuilt in the the mansion is set also contains of the Narwa, are water meadows
17th, the parish Church of the the parish church, with the and the White Forest (Puszcza
Nativity of the Blessed Virgin mausoleum of the Krasiński Biała), which has a rich variety of
Mary, dating from the 16th family where the poet is buried. plants and wildlife, including
century, and the modest Neo- Noteworthy too is the marble over 200 species of birds.
Gothic town hall, designed by tomb of Count Zygmunt’s
Henryk Marconi in the mid-19th mother, Maria Krasińska, by Luigi
century. The low-rise apartment Pampaloni, dating from 1841.
blocks with gable roofs near the
railway station were built during E Museum of Romanticism
the Nazi occupation. After the ul. Krasińskiego 9. Tel 23 671 70 25.
fall of Poland in September Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Apr:
1939 and the annexation of 8am–4pm). & 8
northern Mazovia to the Third
Reich, the Nazis planned to
settle German colonists in many
4 Pułtusk
towns here. Except for the castle Road map E3. * 19,200. @
and parish church, they n Rynek 41, Town Hall Tower
intended to demolish the whole (23 692 51 32). ∑ pultusk.pl
of Ciechanów and build it anew.
Of all the small towns in Mazovia,
E Museum of the Pułtusk has the most beautiful
Mazovian Nobility setting. Its historic centre, located
ul. Warszawska 61a. Tel 23 672 53 46. on an island formed by an arm
Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sun (Jul–Aug: of the River Narwa, has one of
10am–6pm). & (free one day a week, the longest market squares in The town hall at Pułtusk, in one of
usually Sat). ∑ muzeumciechanow.pl Europe. The town hall, with its Europe’s longest market squares
6 Żelazowa Wola E Chopin Museum

Road map E3. * 60. @ Tel 46 863 33 00. Open Apr–Sep:
9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
The romantic manor set in a 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Concerts: May–
verdant, well-tended park is the Sep: noon Sat & Sun (Sun also 3pm).
birthplace of the composer Closed public hols. & (free Wed).
Fryderyk Chopin (1810–49). At
the time of his birth, however, it
was no more than a thatched
outbuilding in which Chopin’s
parents, Mikołaj and Justyna
Tekla, rented a few rooms. In
1930–31, the building was
converted into the Chopin
The twin-towered basilica in Czerwińsk on Museum (Muzeum – Dom
the Vistula Urodzenia Fryderyka Chopina)
and the park around it planted
5 Czerwińsk on the with trees and shrubs donated
by horticulturalists from all over
Vistula Poland. Inside were assembled
Road map E3. * 1,200. @ all kinds of objects associated
with the composer. During the
The church and monastery German occupation, many of
in Czerwińsk on the Vistula, these were looted by the Nazis, Woman from Łowicz dressed in regional
formerly owned by the Canons the music of Chopin was banned, costume
Regular and now by the Salesian and all pictures and busts of the
order, are among the oldest composer were destroyed. 7 Łowicz
buildings in Mazovia. The After World War II, the manor Road map D3. * 29,600. £ @
monastery was in existence by was rebuilt, and in 1948 the n Stary Rynek 1 (46 830 91 51).
1155 and the Romanesque museum was finally reopened ∑ lowicz.eu
basilica was probably built in the once more to the public.
time of Bishop Aleksander of Concerts of Chopin’s music The relatively small town of
Płock in the mid-12th century. In are given in the house and Łowicz, established in the 13th
spite of later Gothic and modern garden, providing visitors with century, was the seat of one
alterations, the main body of the a unique opportunity to hear of the oldest castellanies in
building largely retains its the music of the most inspired Poland. For several centuries,
original appearance. The composer of the Romantic its castle (which is no longer
basilica’s nave and aisles each period in the atmosphere of an standing) was the residence
end in an apse – a characteristic early 19th-century mansion. of the bishops of Gniezno,
feature of Romanesque Near Żelazowa Wola lies primates of Poland. The
churches. In 1410, the massed the village of Brochów, on collegiate church, which was
armies of Małopolska, Lithuania the edge of the Kampinoska founded in the Middle Ages
and Ruthenia gathered around Forest (Puszcza Kampinoska). and rebuilt in the 17th century,
the Gothic bell tower on their Fryderyk Chopin was contains many notable works
march to war against the christened in the fortified of art. It also houses a number
Teutonic Knights. Renaissance church here. of tombs, the most illustrious
Environs
A few miles west of Czerwińsk
is the poor but nonetheless
charming little town of
Wyszogród, overlooking the
Vistula. In the Middle Ages it
had a castle (demolished at the
end of the 18th century) and
was the seat of a castellany.
Evidence of the town’s past
glory survives in the church
and partially preserved former
Franciscan friary, founded in
1406 and rebuilt several times
in the 17th and 18th centuries.
There is also a Baroque parish
church dating from 1779–89. The manor in Żelazowa Wola, birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin
occupant of which was Primate 9 Nieborów

Jakub Uchański (d. 1581). His
Road map E3. * 950. @
tomb’s most noteworthy
features are a 16th-century The Baroque palace in
alabaster carving by Jan Nieborów was built by Tylman
Michałowicz of Urzędów van Gameren between 1690
and an early Neo-Classical and 1696 for Primate Michał S.
frame by Ephraim Schroeger, Radziejowski, Archbishop of
dating from 1782–3. Gniezno. Radziejowski was a
The magnificent late Baroque noted connoisseur of literature,
high altar was made between music, art and architecture, and
1761 and 1764 by Jan Jerzy as such was a client worthy of
Plersch to a design by Tylman. A symmetric garden
Schroeger. It is considered by was also laid out. Around 1766,
many to be one of the most at the wish of a later owner,
original altars in Poland. The Temple of Diana in Arkadia, the Prince Michal K. Ogiński, the
altar painting, crowned by an landscaped park near Łowicz building’s façade was adorned
aureole and enclosed between with a Rococo figure portraying
the pilasters of a narrow frame, 8 Arkadia a dancing Bacchus, with a
makes a great impression on Road map D3. * 250. @ bunch of grapes and a garland
churchgoers and tourists alike. on his head. Ogiński is also
Near the collegiate church is Not far from Łowicz, on the famous for the construction
the old Piarist church (kościół road to Nieborów, lies Arkadia, of a canal, which, via the river
Pijarów) – the Piarists were a a sentimentally romantic system, linked the Black Sea
Catholic order. Its late Baroque landscaped park. Laid out in to the Baltic.
undulating façade, which dates 1778 by Princess Helena Between 1774 and 1945,
from around 1729, is extremely Radziwiłłowa, Arkadia’s Nieborów Palace was the
eye-catching. The interior of the attractions include a lake with property of the aristocratic
building has Baroque altars by two islands and a number of Radziwiłł family. It is famous
Jan Jerzy Plersch. romantic pavilions fancifully for its fine furnishings, which
On the other side of Old designed on historical or include Antoine Pesne’s portrait
Market Square, in the buildings mythological themes by Szymon of the famous beauty Anna
of a former monastery and Bogumił Zug and Henryk Ittar. Orzelska, who was the natural
seminary for missionaries, is the Among ancient trees stand daughter of August II (1697–
Łowicz Regional Museum the Temple of Diana, the High 1733), and the antique head of
(Muzeum Ziemi Łowickiej) Priest’s House, the Margrave’s Niobe, praised in the poetry of
devoted to the folklore of the Cottage with Greek arch, the Konstanty Ildefons Gałczyński
Łowicz area. Its exhibits include Gothic Cottage, the Grotto of (1905–53). This Roman head,
characteristic Łowicz costumes the Sybil and the Aqueduct. which was carved in white
of the 19th and early 20th On some of the pavilion walls, marble after a Greek original
centuries, decorative paper fragments of decorative carving of the 4th century BC, was
cut-outs and folk embroidery. and stonework salvaged from the presented to Princess Helena
In the former chapel, built destroyed Renaissance bishops’ Radziwiłłowa by Catherine
in 1689–1701 to designs by castle in Łowicz are mounted. the Great.
Tylman van Gameren and
decorated with frescoes by
Michelangelo Palloni, objects
from the prehistoric Sarmatian
culture are on display.
Łowicz comes alive at Corpus
Christi, when in honour of this
celebration local people dress in
colourful traditional costumes
to take part in a splendid
procession that winds its way
through the centre of town.
E Łowicz Regional Museum

Stary Rynek 5/7. Tel 46 837 39 28.
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Closed
Mon & pub hols. & (free on Sat).
∑ muzeumlowicz.pl
R Collegiate Church
Stary Rynek 27. Tel 46 837 67 08. A grand interior at Nieborów Palace
Environs
At Liw, 6 km (4 miles) west of
Węgrów, are the remains of a
Gothic castle erected in the
15th century. The castle was
surrounded by marshes, and
the gates could be reached only
by a causeway. It was twice
stormed by Swedes in the 17th
century. In 1782, a small house
was erected on the rubble for
the county chancellery. Today
it houses a Museum of Arms
(Muzeum Zbrojownia), which
Monument to the victims of the death camps at Treblinka besides a display of weaponry
contains portraits by the
0 Treblinka q Węgrów 18th-century Sarmatian School.
Road map F3. * 270. £ @ Road map F3. * 12,600. @ In Stara Wieś to the north
is the palace of the Krasiński-
In 1941, the Nazis established a Węgrów is a small town situated Golicyny family, which has
labour camp, Treblinka I, and in on the historical boundary the finest examples in Poland
1942 a death camp, Treblinka II. between Mazovia and Podlasie. of interiors in the English
Around 800,000 people, mainly Its large, rectangular Gothic style.
Jews from liquidated ghettos, marketplace is distinguished by
were murdered here. Those the Gothic-Baroque parish E Museum of Arms
brought to Treblinka II were church, dating from 1703–6. Liw, ul. Batorego 2. Tel 25 792 57 17.
taken off the trains and Its interior is decorated Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 11am–
herded, without even with paintings by 4pm Sun & public hols (May–Sep:
being registered, to the Michelangelo Palloni 11am–6pm Sat & Sun). & 8
gas chambers. Up until and fine Baroque
March 1943, the victims images. The
were buried in mass sacristry contains a
w Czersk
graves. After March 1943, mirror with a Latin Road map E4. * 400. @
the graves were dug up inscription indicating
and the bodies burned. that the legendary Pan Today, Czersk is no more than
Thereafter all bodies were Twardowski – the Polish a small village; in the distant
burned. In November Faust, who reputedly past it was the capital of
1943, Treblinka II was flew to the moon on Mazovia. By 1413 – most
closed and the ground Armour, Museum of the back of a cockerel – probably due to a change
ploughed over and Arms, Liw used it in his practice of in the course of the Vistula,
seeded. Today, the the black arts. Nearby which had suddenly moved
Treblinka Museum of Struggle stands a somewhat neglected away from Czersk – that role
and Martyrdom stands as a post-Reformation church, had passed to Warsaw. The
reminder of the past. dating from 1693–1706. Inside spectacular ruins of the
In 1964, two monuments is an impressive Baroque princely castle tower over
were erected on the site of monument to the founder, the Vistula. The road to the
the camp. The monument at Jan Bonawentura Krasiński, fortress crosses a bridge over
Treblinka II spreads over 13 ha depicting the moat. Here, three high
(30 acres). It gives an impression Chronos and a towers still stand. In the 12th
of “hundreds of thousands of female figure century, Prince Konrad
human beings, coming from pointing to Mazowiecki used one of its
nowhere, in a spectral the spot dungeons to imprison the
pilgrimage, going to their where small boy who later became
deaths”. It is the work of the Krasiński is Prince Bolesław the Shy of
architect Adam Haupt and the buried. Krakow, and Prince Henryk
sculptors Franciszek Duszenko the Bearded of Wrocław.
and Franciszek Strynkiewicz.
E Treblinka Museum of
Struggle and Martyrdom
Kosów Lacki 76. Tel 25 781
16 58. Open 9am–6:30pm daily
(Nov–Mar: to 4pm). & 8
∑ treblinka-muzeum.eu Ruins of the castle at Czersk
Environs 1500s. Wooden cottages, Instruments, the only museum

Góra Kalwaria, 3 km (2 miles) windmills and two 18th- of its kind in Poland.
north of Czersk, was once an century manors are displayed
important place of pilgrimage. in the skansen at Radom E Museum of Folk Musical
Interesting features include the Rural Museum. Instruments
market square, with the ul. Sowińskiego 2. Tel 48 617
Church of the Exaltation of E Radom Rural Museum 17 89. Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
the Holy Cross and the small ul. Szydłowiecka 30. Tel 48 332 92 81. 10am–5pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar:
Neo-Classical trade halls. The Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm 9am–4pm Tue–Sun). Closed public
Sat & Sun (winter: to 3pm). Closed hols. & (free on Sat).
present parish church once
belonged to the Bernardines. public hols. & (free on Mon).
∑ muzeum-radom.pl
Before World War II, many Jews Environs
lived in Góra Kalwaria. Today, In Chlewiska, 11 km (7 miles)
the Jewish cemetery serves Environs west of Szydłowiec, are the
as a memorial to that time. The mansion of Józef Brandt remains of an early 19th-
(1841–1915), the noted painter century ironworks. A palace
of battle scenes, is set in stands nearby.
parkland at Orońsko, 17 km
(11 miles) from Radom. It is
open to visitors, for whom a
display of objects relating to the
artist’s life and work has been
laid out. Another attraction is
the Centre for Polish Sculpture,
housed in a modern building
within the park. International
exhibitions and a sculpture
biennale are held here.
An exhibit at the Centre for Polish
Sculpture in Orońsko Centre for Polish Sculpture
ul. Topolowa 1, Orońsko. Tel 48 618 45
e Radom 16. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–4pm Tue–Fri,
10am–6pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Mar:
Road map E4. * 218,000. £ @
7am–3pm Tue–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat & Tower of the castle of the bishops of
n ul. Traugutta 3 (48 360 06 10).
Sun. ∑ rzezba-oronsko.pl Krakow in Iłża
∑ radom.pl
This comparatively large town

r Szydłowiec t Iłża
was at one time best known for Road map E4. * 11,800. @ Road map E4. * 5,100. @
its arms industry, but today it is ∑ szydlowiec.pl
more readily associated with the Although the castle of the
workers’ protests of 1976, which The most significant features bishops of Krakow has been in
took place four years before the of this small town are the late ruins since the beginning of the
founding of Solidarity. Although Renaissance town hall and the 19th century, its tower still
Radom was rebuilt in the 19th Gothic-Renaissance castle, set dominates the town. It was
century, several of its older on an island. The castle was built in the 14th century
buildings can still be viewed. built in 1510–16 and by Bishop Jan Grot. Later
Nothing, however, remains of remodelled in the 17th owners transformed it into
the old town itself, which until century. Of its rich interior an elegant Renaissance
1819 was surrounded by a wall. decoration, only traces residence. In 1637,
The most interesting feature remain. Of greater Władysław IV came here
of Radom is the Gothic parish interest is the Museum in disguise. Hiding in
church in Ulica Rwańska, which of Folk Musical the crowd, he wanted
was built in 1360–70 and later to get a secret look at
remodelled. Two Baroque the bride he had
buildings – Esterka and Gąska married by proxy,
at Nos. 4 and 5 Rynek – house Cecilia Renata,
the Gallery of Contemporary daughter of Leopold II
Art; beside them stands the of Austria. Dazzled by
arcaded town hall, by Henryk her beauty, he
Marconi. Also worth visiting are quickly made his
the Bernardine monastery and presence known.
church, which contain 30 tombs Unfortunately, the
and memorial plaques, the marriage did not
oldest of which dates from the Late Renaissance town hall in Szydłowiec prove a happy one.
y A Tour around Kazimierz Dolny

The environs of Kazimierz Dolny are renowned for their
picturesque landscapes and rich heritage of historic buildings.
Here the Vistula valley is cut by deep ravines, while from the gentle
hills magnificent views unfold. It is tempting to linger in Nałęczów,
with its popular spa, and in Puławy, where Czartoryski Palace
6 Gołąb
stands in a landscaped park. The journey from Kazimierz Dolny to The Mannerist-Baroque
Janowiec can only be made by ferry; this provides an excellent church, which dates from
opportunity for photographing both banks of the Vistula. 1628–36, has brick walls
and fantastic decoration;
beside it stands the
Kock Lorentine Chapel.
7 Sieciechów
The late Baroque Church
of the Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin towers Kozienice Dęblin Wieprz
over the buildings of
the former Benedict- Vis
ine abbey. It was tul
built between 1739

a
and 1769, though

the walls contain
Romanesque remains.
The interior is adorned
with Rococo-Neo-
Classical-style paint-
ings by Szymon
Mankowski.
Lublin
Radom Zwoleń
Ple
wk
J
a J
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
8 Czarnolas
This was the home of Jan Kochanowski 1 Janowiec
(1530–84), the greatest poet of the The extensive ruins of the castle that was built for
Polish Renaissance. Little is left of his the Firlej family in the 16th century now house a
wooden manor, and the museum museum. It includes a small skansen where several
devoted to the poet’s life and work is wooden buildings, including an 18th-century
housed in the 19th-century mansion. manor and storehouse, have been re-erected.

Tips for Drivers

Tour length: 150 km (94 miles)
Stopping-off points: Good cafés
and restaurants are in Kazimierz
Dolny, Nałęczów and Puławy. The
ferry from Kazimierz to Janowiec
runs from Apr to Nov, every
30 mins.
5 Puławy 4 Bochotnica
The former residence of the In this hamlet stand the
Czartoryski family is set in a large ruins of a 14th-century
landscaped park, now sadly neg- castle that, according to
lected. Many small ornamental legend, Kazimierz the
buildings, such as the Temple of Great (1333–70) built for
the Sybil and the Gothic House, Esterka, the beautiful
are to be seen here. Jewish girl who became St Christopher, House of Krzysztof Przybyła,
his mistress. Kazimierz Dolny
3 Nałęczów u Kazimierz Dolny

This health resort also Road map F4. * 3,400. @ n
has a spa park, with a Rynek 27 (81 881 07 09). _ Festival
pump room, baths and of Folk Bands and Singers (Jun); Film
Baroque palace. The Summer (Aug). ∑ kazimierzdolny.pl
wooden cottage
housing the museum of This delightful little town, the
the novelist Stefan
favourite holiday resort of poets
Żeromski (1864–1925)
is open to visitors.
and painters, was probably
founded by Kazimierz the Great.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, it
2 Kazimierz Dolny grew rich from the grain trade.
During the summer, Kazimierz The ruins of a Gothic castle with
Dolny swarms with tourists. It is a high tower dominate the
a popular weekend destination town. At its foot can be seen the
for Varsovians. The town is well Renaissance Parish Church of
provided with guesthouses, Saints John the Baptist and
good restaurants and cafés. Bartholomew built in 1610–
There are also handicraft stalls
13, which incorporates the
and young artists offering their
work for sale.
walls of an earlier Gothic
church. The interior has
By
str
a provincial stuccowork
Key decoration in the vaulting,
and early Baroque chapels.
Tour route
Lublin The most attractive part of
Other road town is the market square,
flanked by several Mannerist
houses, with rich ornamental
Czartoryski Palace at Puławy coverings. Particularly attractive
are the House of Mikołaj
After the fall of the Commonwealth at the
end of the 18th century, the Puławy Przybyła and House of Krzysztof
residence of Princess Izabella and her Przybyła, at Nos. 12 and 13,
husband became an important centre of dating from around 1615. There
artistic and political life. In the garden are also some 16th-century
pavilions, the princess established the houses in Ulica Senatorska,
first Polish national museum, called the which leads down to the Vistula,
Shrine of Memory. After the November including the Celej House, which
Insurrection of 1831 failed, Puławy was dates from around 1635. While
deserted. The Czartoryskis went into exile Izabella strolling through the town, note
abroad and their property was confiscated Czartoryska the former synagogue, dating
by the Russians. from the 18th century, the
granaries on the banks of the
Vistula, and the pre-war villas.
i Lublin precinct lined with elegant

shops. In Plac Unii Lubelskiej are
Lublin, the largest city in southeastern Poland, is well- the Capuchin church (kościół
endowed with historic buildings. It is also an important Kapucynów) and the Church of
centre of academic life; its best-known seat of learning is the Our Lady Victorious (Kościół
Matki Boskiej Zwycięskiej),
Catholic University of Lublin. Before World War II, the only
founded by Władysław Jagiełło
Jewish college of higher education in Poland was located (1386–1434) to commemorate
here. In 1944, after Lublin had been liberated from the Nazis, his victory over the Teutonic
Poland’s first Communist government, convened at Stalin’s Knights at the Battle of
behest, arrived here on the tanks of the Red Army. Grunwald in 1410 (see pp46–7).
The Jewish cemetery
adjoining Ulica Kalinowszczyna,
established in 1555, is evidence
of the Jewish community that
existed in Lublin for many
centuries, celebrated in the
novels of Nobel laureate Isaac
Bashevis Singer (1904–91).
E Lublin’s Underground Route

Rynek 1. Tel 81 534 65 70. Open Mon:
by appt; Tue–Fri: tours at 10am, noon,
2pm & 4pm; Sat & Sun: tours at noon,
1pm, 2pm, 4pm & 5pm. &
Historic houses round the Market Square in Lublin
Exploring Lublin of the Kingdom of Poland once

The most attractive district of had its seat. In the 18th century,
Lublin is the Old Town (Stare the town hall was rebuilt by
Miasto), situated on the edge of Dominik Merlini in the Neo-
the escarpment. It is reached Classical style. Today its cellars
through Krakow Gate (Brama house an exhibition on the
Krakowska), which has become history of Lublin and are part
a symbol of the city. This old of Lublin’s Underground Route,
part of Lublin is a maze of which runs for 300 m (984 ft)
romantic lanes and alleys. The along a series of 16th-century
façades of the houses are cellars. The most magnificent
decorated with Mannerist place of worship in the Old
and Baroque ornamen- Town is the Dominican
tation and have splendid church (kościół
attics. Many of the Dominikanów),
buildings have Socialist founded in 1342 and Interior of the dome of the Firlej Chapel
Realist paintings rebuilt in the 17th in the Dominican church
dating from 1954, and 18th centuries.
when the whole The finest of its 11 R Cathedral of Saints John
town was renovated chapels is the mid- the Baptist and John the
to celebrate the 17th-century Evangelist
tenth anniversary Mannerist-Baroque ul. Królewska 10. Tel 81 532 11 96.
of the establish- Firlej Chapel. Its The interior of this former
ment of the ribbed dome is Jesuit church is a triumph of
Communist Lublin an ambitious Baroque art. Trompe l’oeil
Committee (see confection ascribed frescoes painted by Joseph
p57). At the centre to the mason Jan Mayer in 1756–7 depict scenes
of the Old Town Wolff. The main set against a background of
is the Market street in Lublin, illusory architecture. The most
Square, with Krakowskie beautiful frescoes are those
Lublin’s town Przedmieście, in the cathedral treasury,
hall. Here, the Krakow Gate, one of is now a depicting Heliodorus Expelled
Crown Tribunal Lublin’s symbols pedestrian from the Temple.
Road map F4. * 343,000. n ul.
Jezuicka 1–3 (81 532 44 12). _
Lublin Folklore Meetings (Jul);
Oldest Songs of Europe Interna-
tional Festival (Oct). ∑ lublin.pl
Transport
£ for information call
19436. @
Neo-Gothic façade of Lublin Castle
+ Lublin Castle of Poland and the coexistence at E Lublin Rural Museum

pl. Zamkowy 1. Muzeum Lubelskie this time of the Roman Catholic Aleja Warszawska 96. Tel 81 533 31 37.
Tel 81 532 50 01. Open 9am–4pm and Orthodox faiths. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily; May–
Tue, Thu–Sat, 9am–5pm Wed & Sun In the museum laid out in the Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
(Jun–Aug: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, rest of the castle are exhibitions 9am–3pm Tue–Sun. & 8
10am–6pm Sun). 8 d = of Polish and foreign paintings, ∑ skansen.lublin.pl
∑ muzeumlubelskie.pl
folk art and weaponry. Here you can see rural buildings
Lublin’s most important historic from villages, small towns and
building is the Chapel of the E Majdanek State Museum manorial estates, together with
Holy Trinity (Kaplica Świętej Droga Męczenników Majdanka 67. their furnishings.
Trójcy). It forms part of Lublin Tel 81 710 28 33. Open 9am–6pm
Castle, which was built in the daily (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). Closed
14th century and remodelled in public hols. ∑ majdanek.pl
the Gothic style in 1823–6 for In 1941, the Nazis established
use as a prison. The interior of a camp at Majdanek for Soviet
this Catholic chapel (see p46) is prisoners of war; it later became
covered with Byzantine frescoes a death camp. Of the half
painted in 1418 by Orthodox million people who passed
artists. Among the saints and through Majdanek, 360,000
angels is a portrait of Władysław were murdered. The camp has
Jagiełło, the chapel’s founder. been preserved as a museum
The chapel is evidence of the and memorial to the victims
cultural diversity of the Kingdom of extermination. Frescoes in the Chapel of the Holy Trinity
Central Lublin
1 Capuchin Church 5 Market Square
2 Church of Our Lady Victorious 6 Town hall
3 Krakow Gate 7 Dominican Church
4 Lublin Cathedral 8 Lublin Castle
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RU
NA For keys to symbols see back flap
o Kozłówka Palace
Road map F4. * 800. @
The magnificent palace at

Kozłówka is one of the best-
preserved aristocratic
residences in Poland. Built
between 1735 and 1742 in the
Baroque style by Giuseppe
Fontana, its first owner was
Michał Bieliński, Palatine of
Chełm, who at the wish of
August II was married – albeit
briefly – to one Aurora
Rutkowska, who happened
to be the king’s illegitimate
daughter by a Turkish lady
named Fatima.
Kozłówka Palace later passed
to the famous Zamoyski family,
and was rebuilt in the Empire
style and renamed Zamoyski
Palace. In 1903, Konstanty
Zamoyski established what
in property law is called an
“entail”, in order to ensure that
the palace would remain the
undivided inheritance of the
Zamoyski family. Picture gallery and White Staircase, Kozłówka Palace
Zamoyski was regarded by
contemporaries as a “handsome chandeliers, lambrequins, bathroom, which is most
man, outstanding for his good curtains, and furniture elegantly equipped, or the
companionship and sense of decorated with inlays and palace kitchens.)
humour”. He was a great bronze – mainly excellent Most impressive of all the
collector, a lover of music and a copies in Louis XV and Louis XVI exhibits is the collection of
connoisseur of painting. He was style from the best French some 1,000 paintings, which
educated in the France of Louis- workshops. almost completely cover the
Napoleon, and the style of the Today, the palace is a walls. These are not original
Second Empire is clearly visible museum. Its entire contents works but high-quality copies of
in the rich decor of the palace have been preserved, making the masterpieces of European
interior, with its Neo-Rococo it Poland’s finest collection not painting – the largest collection
stuccowork, enormous ceramic only of 19th-century art but also in Poland of its kind.
stoves, chimneypieces in of everyday objects. (Do not The palace chapel – which
coloured marble, huge miss the early 20th-century was modelled on the Royal
Chapel at Versailles – was built
between 1904 and 1909 by Jan
Socialist Realist Art, Kozłówka Heurich junior, the pioneer of
Socialist Realism was a doctrinal art style that was developed in the modern architecture in Poland.
Soviet Union in the Stalinist era. In Poland, it was current after World It contains a copy by Lorenzo
War II, from about 1949 to 1955. Its theoretical principles were Bartolini of the tomb of Zofia
unclear, and in practice what counted were the instructions given to Zamoyska that is in the church
the artists. The heroes of Socialist of Santa Croce in Florence.
Realist works were party An annexe of Kozłówka Palace
apparatchiks, buxom peasant is occupied by a unique gallery
women and muscular workers. housing Socialist Realist art. The
A great number of such works, building is surrounded by a park
which were often to be seen on that extends over 190,000 sq m
the roofs of public buildings (47 acres).
and museum storehouses, can
be seen in Kozłówka Palace, E Zamoyski Palace and Museum
where the largest collection in
Tel 81 852 83 10. Open Apr–Nov:
Poland of Socialist Realist art
10am–4pm Tue–Sun (to 5pm
has been assembled.
Exhibition at Kozłówka Palace in summer). & ∑ muzeum
zamoyskich.pl
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–3 and p311–13

p Radzyń Podlaski In Radzyń Podlaski itself is the

Road map F4. * 16,000. £ station Church of the Holy Trinity
8 km (5 miles) from the town. @ (Kościół Świętej Trójcy), built in
n ul. Jana Pawła II 4 (83 352 73 14). 1641 by Jan Wolff, the illustrious
mason of the Zamoyski family.
In its splendour, Potocki Palace The church contains the
rivals Branicki Palace in imposing red marble
Białystok, the “Versailles of Renaissance tomb of Mikołaj
Podlasie” (see p294). It was built Mniszech and his wife Zofia,
for the ambitious Eustachy possibly the work of Santi Gucci.
Potocki, who later became a
general in the Lithuanian
artillery. The palace was to be a Chełm
dazzling. It was reconstructed Road map G4. * 65,500. £ 0
in 1750–58, in the Rococo style, n ul. Lubelska 63 (82 565 36 67).
by Giacopo Fontana and his _ International Choral Meetings
talented team of artists. The (Apr). ∑ itchelm.pl
painted decoration is by Jan The highly ornate Baroque interior of the
Bogumił Plersch and the The most interesting aspect Piarist church in Chełm
carving by Michał Dollinger of Chełm is its network of
and Chrystian Redler. The underground tunnels, the where there are the remains of
appearance of the palace, like remains of chalk mines a 13th-century princely castle.
the career of its owner, was (Podziemia). The tunnels are on From here, the towers of
calculated to have a great three levels and descend to a Roman Catholic churches, the
effect. With its elongated wings, depth of 30 m (100 ft); visitors onion domes of a Greek
it was remarkable not only in may walk along them, candle Catholic and an Orthodox
form but also in character. in hand. In the 17th century, church, and a fine Baroque
Viewed from the courtyard, the as many as 80 houses had an synagogue can be made out.
unusual monumental wing, entrance to the workings. A Jewish community, one of the
with its imposing gate tower Mining ended in the 1800s. earliest in Poland, settled here
(visible even from the town), Above ground, the town’s most in the 12th century.
looks almost like a single-storey impressive building is the
outbuilding. Similarly, the main Piarist church. It was built by E Chalk Mines
block of the palace, which looks Paolo Fontana in 1753–63 and ul. Lubelska 55a. Tel 82 565 25 30.
modest from the courtyard, has an undulant façade, elliptic Open visits at 11am, 1pm and 4pm
overwhelms with its richness nave and imposing dome. The daily. Closed public hols. &
when viewed from the garden. Baroque interior is decorated
Dynamic Rococo carvings with paintings by Joseph Mayer. Environs
decorate the palace and The best view of Chełm is from The Polesian National Park
adjacent orangery. The most Castle Hill (Góra Zamkowa), (Poleski Park Narodowy) lies
interesting are the four groups 40 km (25 miles) northwest of
of Hercules and the Lion, the Chełm. It forms part of the
Hydra, the Minotaur, and the Łęczyńsko-Włodarskie Lake
Dragon. Today, the palace District and has many swamps,
houses various institutions. peat bogs and small lakes.
Rococo carvings on the orangery at Potocki Palace, Radzyń Podlaski

s Zamość
Zamość is one of the best- preserved Renaissance towns in
Europe. It was one of the first to be planned and built from
scratch according to Italian concepts of the ideal town. The
moving force behind this project was Jan Zamoyski (1541–
1605), chancellor and commander-in-chief of the Crown, one
of the most powerful and enlightened magnates of Poland’s
Golden Age, and the owner of Zamość. Bernardo Morando
was the architect and work began in 1581, continuing for
more than ten years. A programme of restoration was carried
out in the 1970s, and in 1992 UNESCO declared the town a . Town Hall
With its fine ornamental tower
World Heritage Site. Today, theatrical performances and many and imposing fan staircase,
other cultural events take place in the Main Square. the Town Hall is the focal point
of Zamość.
. Cathedral
The cathedral, designed by
Bernardo Morando in 1587, was
completed in the 1630s. It was
rebuilt in 1824–6. It has an
unusual Mannerist façade and
distinctively decorated vaulting.
Arsenal
The Arsenal, closely connected
with the town’s formidable
fortifications, is today the
Polish Army Museum.
KEY
1 Former Church and Monastery

of the Order of St John of God
2 The Church of St Nicholas,
built for the Greek Catholic Basilian
order, is now Roman Catholic,
demonstrating the multi-ethnic
character of old Zamość.

Franciscan Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

In the 19th century,
this large church Practical Information
was turned into a Road map F5. * 65,200. n
barracks and its Rynek Wielki 13 (84 639 22 92).
Baroque gables Regional Museum: ul. Ormiańska
pulled down. 30. Tel 84 638 64 94. Open
9am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 d
_ Jazz on the Borderlands (May);
International Meeting of Jazz
Vocalists (Sep). ∑ zamosc.pl
Transport
£@
Bastion Fortifications
The fortifications
around Zamość
allowed the town to
resist a Cossack siege
as well as the Swedish
Deluge of the 1650s.
. Main Market Square

The Main Market Square (Rynek
Wielki) is surrounded on all four
sides by arcaded houses two
storeys high. They were built to
a unified design, but many of
their façades have unusual and
elaborate decorations with
an Oriental flavour.
Doorway of the Old Rectory

This magnificent rectory,
adjoining the cathedral, is one
of the oldest houses in Zamość.
KRAKOW
Krakow is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Over
the centuries, many important artists and architects came
to work here, among them Veit Stoss from Germany,
Bartolomeo Berrecci and Giovanni Maria Padovano from
Italy, and Tylman van Gameren from Holland. Krakow has
been spared major destruction, so it preserves the largest
assemblage of historic buildings and monuments in Poland.
The earliest mention of Krakow in the Renaissance. The Wawel Royal Castle, the
historical records dates from the middle Cloth Hall in the Main Market Square,
of the 10th century; it had certainly been and many private houses and mansions
incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in the city were rebuilt in the Renaissance
before 992. In 1000 it became a see, and style. Krakow gradually lost its significance,
around 1038 it assumed the importance and in 1596 the capital was moved to
of a capital. Wawel Hill became the seat of Warsaw, but it was in Wawel Cathedral
government, and from 1257, when that successive kings of Poland were
Bolesław the Chaste gave the city a crowned and entombed, and the city
municipal charter, it began to spread and continued to acquire many magnificent
flourish at the foot of the hill. In 1364 the buildings. Under the Partition of Poland
Krakow Academy was founded, increasing (see pp52–5), Krakow came under Austrian
the city’s importance on the European rule, which nevertheless permitted a
stage. During the 14th and 15th centuries, relatively large degree of local autonomy.
large sums of money were spent on the Hence it began to assume the role of the
development of the city, as can be seen from spiritual capital of all Poles, both in their
the numerous Gothic churches and secular native country and abroad. Krakow
buildings that survive to this day. escaped significant damage during the
At the beginning of the 16th century, two World Wars, and in 1978 UNESCO
Krakow came under the influence of the declared it a World Heritage Site.
Memorial to Adam Mickiewicz, Poland’s national poet, outside the Cloth Hall in the Main Market Square
A cupola of the Gothic Cathedral on the Wawel
Exploring Krakow
As most places of interest in Krakow are located in its fairly compact
historic centre, the city is best seen on foot. A good place to start is
Wawel Hill (Wzgórze Wawelskie), with its imposing Wawel Royal
Castle and Gothic cathedral, in the crypt of which many kings of
Poland are interred. North of Wawel Hill lies the old city of Krakow
GO
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Churches Buildings, Squares and Streets 0 Princes Czartoryski

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3 Church of St Mary pp138–9 2 City Hall Tower Museum

a
5 Dominican Church 6 Medical Society Building r Collegium Maius

q Piarist Church 7 Plac Matejki t Józef Mehoffer House Museum
e Church of St Anne 8 Barbican y National Museum in Krakow Most
Grunwaldzki
i Franciscan Church 9 Ulica Floriańska s Szołaysky House
p Church of Saints Peter w Plac Szczepański f Cathedral Museum
and Paul u Ulica Retoryka g “Lost Wawel” Exhibition
j The Cathedral pp148–9 o Ulica Grodzka h The Wawel Royal Castle pp146–7
k Pauline Church on the Rock a Ulica Kanonicza m Schindler’s Factory and MOCAK
l Church of Corpus Christi d Fortifications on the Wawel . Polish Aviation Museum
c Premonstratensian Church v Decjusz Villa
b Camaldolite Monastery in Synagogues and Cemeteries
Bielany Museums and Galleries z Old Synagogue
n Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec 1 Cloth Hall x Remuh Cemetery and
, Cistercian Abbey in Mogiła 4 Rynek Underground Synagogue
KRAKOW 135
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GRODZKA
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A Getting Around
P IE K
Krakow has an international airport
A
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S K
railway network. By car, it can be
reached by motorway from Katowice
or rapid transit route from Warsaw.
Main Market Square

This huge market square (Rynek Główny) 3. Church of
was laid out when Krakow received its new St Mary
municipal charter in 1257. One of the largest The façade of this
church has for
in Europe, it seethes with life all year round. centuries stood as
In summer, pedestrians find themselves a symbol of Polish
negotiating the maze of café tables that fill architecture.
the square, along with a host of shops,
antique dealers, restaurants, bars and clubs.
There are also many interesting museums,
galleries and historic sights, including some
splendid Renaissance and Baroque houses
and mansions.
4 Rynek
FLO
Underground
RIA
ŚW
ŃS
. JA
KA
SŁA
NA
WK
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1. Cloth Hall
This beautiful Renaissance
SKA
building replaced an earlier

Gothic market hall. The KA
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upper floor houses part ZEP
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of the National Museum.
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2 City Hall Tower

The Gothic tower is the only
remaining part of the former
City Hall. A café has been
St Wojciech is a small but
opened in the basement.
splendid Romanesque church.
One of the oldest stone
Key churches in Poland, it pre-dates
the planning of this vast square
Suggested route and is all but lost in it.
KRAKOW 137
1 Cloth Hall This high-tech museum, tracing

Rynek Główny 1/3. @ 124, 152, 304, the story of the city, is located
502. v 3, 4, 7, 13, 14, 18, 19. Gallery under the Main Market Square.
of Polish Painting: Tel 12 433 54 00. The underground vaults contain
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & (free displays on transportation and
on Sun). ^ 8 9 d trade, as well as archaeological
finds such as the remains of an
Set in the centre of the Main 11th-century cemetery and
Market Square, the Cloth Hall ancient coins and clothing. The
Locator Map (Sukiennice) replaces an earlier museum cleverly blends
Gothic trade hall dating from modern technology with
the second half of the 1300s. interactive exhibits and more
Destroyed in a fire, then rebuilt traditional displays.
by Giovanni Maria Padovano, it
owes something of its present 5 Dominican
appearance to Tomasz Pryliński’s
Romantic-style restoration Church
(1875–9). The ground floor is ul. Stolarska 12. Tel 12 423 16 13. v 1,
filled with cafés and souvenir 3, 6, 8, 18. Open 6:30am–8pm daily.
shops, while on the upper floor
is the Gallery of Polish Painting. The origins of the Dominican
Its collection of 19th-century Church (Kościół Dominikanów)
works includes art by Jan go back to the second half of
Matejko, Marcello Bacciarelli the 13th century. Rebuilt a
The Church of St
and Piotr Michałowski. number of times, by the middle
Barbara, dating from
the late 14th century, of the 1400s it had become the
contains many magnificent Gothic building
treasures, including
2 City Hall Tower that still stands today. A number
a 15th-century Rynek Główny 1. @ 124, 152, 304, of mortuary chapels were also
Gothic pietà. 502. v 3, 4, 7, 13, 14, 18, 19. Branch added; many of them are
of the Historical Museum of Krakow: major works of Renaissance
Tel 12 619 23 35. Open Apr–Oct: and Baroque art in their own
10:30am–6pm daily. Closed 1, 3 May right, with rich decorations and
A
NN & 15 Aug. & 9 e furnishings. Of particular note
SIE
are the Baroque chapel of the
House known as The Gothic tower, crowned by a Zbaraski family, at the west
“At the Sign of Baroque cupola, that dominates end of the north aisle, and
the Lizards” the Main Market Square is the the Mannerist chapel of the
only remaining vestige of the Myszkowski family, in the first
City Hall, built in the 14th bay of the south aisle. The
century and pulled down in church was badly damaged by a
the first half of the 19th. The great fire that swept through the
tower houses a branch of the city in 1850, destroying most of
Historical Museum. Aspects its wooden furnishings, although
of the city’s history are also it was promptly restored.
G documented in the Museum of
R
O
D the History of the Market, in the
Z
K
A crypt of the neighbouring
Church of St Wojciech.
3 Church of
St Mary
See pp138–9.
4 Rynek
Underground
0 metres 50 Rynek Główny 1. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–10pm daily (to 8pm Mon, to
0 yards 50
4pm Tue); Nov–Mar: 10am–8pm daily
(to 4pm Tue). Closed 1st Tue of Shrine of St Jack in the
month. & (free on Tue). 9 Dominican church
3 Church of St Mary
The imposing Church of St Mary (Kościół . Crucifix
The large sandstone
Mariacki) was built by the citizens of Krakow
crucifix by Veit Stoss
to rival the Royal Cathedral on Wawel Hill. is a fine example of
Building began in 1355, but work on the 15th-century
vaulting and the chapels continued until sculpture.
the mid-15th century, and the lower
tower was not completed until the
early 16th. At this time, sermons were
preached in German. This great basilica,
with its rows of side chapels, contains
an exceptional number of important
works of art.
Hejnał Tower
The famous trumpet call –
the Hejnał – is sounded
hourly from the tower.
The call is unfinished, in
memory of a medieval
trumpeter, shot while
sounding the alarm.
The Hejnał is
broadcast live by
Polish radio daily
at noon.
Main
entrance
Ciborium
Baroque Porch This large ciborium, in the
This pentagonal porch was built form of a Renaissance church,
in the mid-18th century to a was made by Giovanni Maria
design by Francesco Placidi. Padovano in about 1552.
KRAKOW 139
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Neo-Baroque reconstruction

in the early years of the
Practical Information 20th century. The original
pl. Mariacki 5. Tel 12 422 05 21. church on this site was built
Open 11:30am–6pm daily (from in the early 13th century. At
2pm Sun). Altarpiece of Veit Stoss: the end of the 19th century,
Open from 11:50am daily (2pm huge monumental public
Sun). & ^ ∑ mariacki.com buildings and splendid private
Transport houses were erected around
@ 124, 152, 304, 424, 502. the square. The Academy of
v 1, 3, 7, 8, 18, 24. Fine Arts, at No. 13, designed
by Maciej Moraczewski and
Gothic built between 1879 and 1880,
stained-glass is particularly impressive.
window made The Grunwald Monument in
around 1370 the centre of the square was
Stained-glass window, Medical Society unveiled in 1910 to mark the
Building 500th anniversary of the Battle
of Grunwald (see p47), in which
6 Medical Society the armies of the Teutonic
Knights were routed. The huge
Building sculpture of Władysław Jagiełło
ul. Radziwiłłowska 4. Tel 12 422 75 47. is by Antoni Wiwulski.
v 1, 3, 9, 10, 13, 19, 22. Open
10am–3pm Mon–Fri (stained glass
by appt). ∑ tlk.cm-uj.krakow.pl 8 Barbican
ul. Basztowa. Tel 12 422 98 77. @ 124,
The Medical Society Building 152, 502. v 3, 4, 14, 18. Open Apr–
(Gmach Towarzystwa Oct: 10:30am–6pm daily. &
Lekarskiego) was designed by
Władysław Kaczmarski and Józef The Barbican (Barbakan)
Sowiński and built in 1904. It is one of the remaining
would hardly merit mention elements of Krakow’s medieval
were it not for its interior decor, fortifications. The double ring
the creation of Stanisław of walls that once surrounded
Wyspiański, one of the most the city was built in stages
talented artists of the Young from 1285 to the beginning
Poland movement. He was of the 15th century. Most of
responsible for the interior the circumvallation was pulled
decoration of individual rooms down in the 19th century. The
Visitors’ and furnishings inspired by folk Barbican was built in 1498–9,
entrance art, as in the magnificent when the city’s defences were
stained-glass window Apollo strengthened in response to
and The Solar System. advances in military tactics
and equipment. It protected
the Florian Gate, to which it
7 Plac Matejki was connected by an
@ 124, 152, 424, 502. underground passage. The
v 2, 4, 7, 14, 18. latter’s route is indicated by
a change in the colour of the
This typical Krakovian paving stones.
square was laid out at
the end of the 19th
century. The Church
of St Florian (Kościół
św. Floriana),
on the corner of
Ulica Warszawska,
. Altarpiece of Veit Stoss is considerably
This polyptych – the world’s older. Its present
largest Gothic altarpiece – is 11 m appearance is the
(36 ft) wide and 13 m (42 ft) high. result of frequent
It was carved by Veit Stoss in rebuilding – in
1477–89. particular a The 15th-century Barbican, based on Arab designs
of the Czartoryski family. The

collection was later taken to
Paris and then to Krakow, where
it was put on public view. It
includes remarkable examples
of handicrafts and carving, but
most significant are the
paintings – foremost among
them Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady
with an Ermine (c.1485) and
Rembrandt’s Landscape with
Good Samaritan (1638).
q Piarist Church
ul. Pijarska 2. Tel 12 422 22 55. @ 124,
152, 502. v 2, 4, 7, 14, 18, 19. Open
during services only.
The exceptionally beautiful

Rococo façade of the Piarist
Church (Kościół Pijarów), which
stands at the top of Ulica św
Jana, was built to the design of
Francesco Placidi between 1759
and 1761. It conceals the façade
of the older Baroque church of
The Florian Gate, Ulica Floriańska 1718–28 designed by Kacper
Bażanka. The interior has
9 Ulica Floriańska 0 Princes stuccowork by Chrystian Bol
@ 124, 152, 424, 502. v 2, 4, 7, 14, Czartoryski and paintings by Franz Eckstein.
18, 19, 20, 24. Matejko’s House: Tel 12
422 59 60. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
Museum
10am–4pm Sun. & (free on Sun). ul. św. Jana 19. Tel 12 370 54 60. w Plac Szczepański
8m @ 124, 152, 424, 502. v 2, 4, 7, @ 124, 152, 304, 424, 502. v 2, 4,
14, 18, 19, 24, 30. Open 10am–6pm 8, 13, 14, 18, 24. Fine Arts Society
This charming street in the old Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm Sun. & e Building: Tel 12 422 66 16. Open
town is full of restaurants, cafés 8 m ∑ muzeum-czartoryskich. 8:15am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
and shops. It leads from the krakow.pl Sat & Sun. & The Bunker of Arts:
Main Market Square to the Tel 12 422 10 52. Open noon–8pm
Florian Gate and was once This relatively small museum Tue–Sun. & -
part of the Royal Route, along has one of the most interesting
which rulers would ride on their art collections in Poland. Plac Szczepański is always full of
way from Warsaw to their Assembled in Puławy at the cars. Nonetheless, it contains a
coronation in Krakow. end of the 18th century by number of interesting buildings
At No. 41, Matejko’s House Izabella Czartoryska (see p125), that are used as arts venues and
(Dom Matejki) is the birthplace it was the private collection is well worth exploring.
of the painter Jan Matejko At No. 1, the Old Theatre
(1838–93). He spent most of (Teatr Stary) is the oldest
his life here. On display is a theatrical building in Poland.
collection of his paintings – also It opened in 1798 and has
his studio, full of artist’s materials. since been rebuilt twice –
A little further on, at No. 45, is most recently between 1903
Jama Michalika, a café that was and 1905, when it was
extremely fashionable in the remodelled by Franciszek
late 19th to early 20th centuries. Mączyński and Tadeusz
The fine Art Nouveau decor by Stryjeński in the Art Nouveau
Karol Frycz can still be seen. style. The frieze on the façade
The Florian Gate at the end is by Józef Gardecki.
of the street, is one of the few Exhibitions are regularly
surviving remnants of the city’s held at the Fine Arts Society
medieval fortifications, along Building (Pałac Sztuki) at No. 4.
with a section of the city wall Leonardo da Vinci, Lady with an Ermine, Built by Franciszek Mączyński
and three towers. Czartoryski Museum in 1901, this too is in the Art
KRAKOW 141
Nouveau style. Interesting which was carved by Antoni t Józef Mehoffer

exhibitions of contemporary Frączkiewicz. House Museum
art are also on display for In the south transept is the
viewing at The Bunker of Arts shrine and reliquary of St John ul. Krupnicza 26. Tel 12 433 58 80.
v 2, 4, 8, 13, 24. Open 10am–4pm
(Bunkier Sztuki), a Brutalist of Cantinus, a 15th-century
building erected in the 1960s, theologian and the patron of Wed–Sun. & (free on Sun). 8
located at No. 3a. St Anne’s. The church was built
after the saint’s beatification. This small museum is located in
the house where Józef Mehoffer
(1854–1946), the leading Art
r Collegium Maius Nouveau stained-glass artist,
ul. Jagiellońska 15. Tel 12 422 05 49. lived from 1932 until his death.
@ 124, 152, 424, 502. v 2, 4, 8, 14, It contains furnishings made by
18. Open 10am–2:20pm Mon–Sat Mehoffer, as well as examples of
(Mar–Oct: to 5:20pm Tue & Thu). his artistic output, including the
& (free 3–4pm Tue). 8 7 - captivating Portrait of the Artist’s
∑ maius.uj.edu.pl Wife. The house was the
birthplace of the well-known
The Collegium Maius is the artist and writer Stanisław
oldest surviving college of the Wyspiański (1869–1907).
Jagiellonian University, which
grew from the Krakow Academy
y National
established by Kazimierz the
Great in 1364. Queen Jadwiga, Museum in Krakow
wife of Władysław Jagiełło, al. 3 Maja 1. Tel 12 433 55 00. @ 124,
bequeathed her personal 144, 152, 173, 179, 194, 502. v 20.
fortune to the Academy in 1399. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
In the second half of the 15th 4pm Sun. & (free on Sun). 9 7
century the Collegium Maius - = ∑ muzeum.krakow.pl
Baroque shrine of St John of Cantinus in acquired new premises, which
the Church of St Anne incorporated the walls of several The enormous edifice that
older buildings. Its present dominates this part of
e Church of appearance is largely due to a the city is the main
St Anne 19th-century restoration in a building of Krakow’s
Romantic style, although the National Museum.
ul. św. Anny 11. Tel 12 422 53 18. building’s Gothic structure Building began in the
@ 124, 152, 424, 502. v 2, 4, 8, 14, survives. Copernicus (see p279) 1930s but was not
18. Open during services. undoubtedly walked in the finished until 1989.
cloistered courtyard when The exhibits are
In the narrow Ulica św. Anny, he was a student here. In divided into three
it is impossible to miss the the Jagiellonian University main sections. The
imposing Baroque façade of the Museum are numerous exhibits first is devoted to
twin-towered Church of St Anne documenting the rich history of the applied arts. The
(Kościół św. Anny). The architect the university. second comprises
was Tylman van Gameren. In an interesting
designing the façade, he took collection of militaria
into account the fact that any and objects of
view of it would be acutely historical interest,
foreshortened by virtue of the such as the military
narrowness of the street. jacket of Józef Model of the
The church building was Piłsudski (see p57). Monument to
erected between 1689 and The third has an Adam Mickiewicz in
1703, although work on the important collection the National Museum
decoration was not completed of 20th-century in Krakow
until much later. painting and
The interior has murals by sculpture. The work
Karol and Innocenti Monti and of the artists of the Young
a fine high altar by Baldassare Poland movement is
Fontana. The painting of St particularly well represented.
Anne that adorns it is by Jerzy The display also features pieces
Eleuter Siemigonowski. Also by schools that were active in
notable are the Baroque choir the interwar years, and some
stalls, decorated by Szymon Auditorium of the Collegium Maius, fine examples of the art of the
Czechowicz, and the pulpit, with Renaissance coffered ceiling postwar period.
u Ulica Retoryka appearance. The church, how-

@ 124, 144, 152, 164, 173, 179, ever, is renowned more for its
194. v 20. interior decoration than for its
architecture and attracts many
Take a walk down Ulica visitors from all over the world.
Retoryka and it is impossible to A number of interesting
miss the remarkable houses features from different ages have
that were designed and built been preserved, although the
here by Teodor Talowski (1857– most notable are the Art
1910) in the late 19th century. Nouveau murals and stained-
The architect had an exuberant glass windows by Stanisław
imagination and a lively sense Wyspiański, dating from around
of humour; the houses that he 1900. The chancel and transept
designed are in an unusual are decorated with a vertiginous
mixture of the Neo-Gothic scheme featuring
and Neo-Mannerist styles. entwined flowers,
They have startling heraldic motifs and
ornamentation, religious scenes. The
sometimes artificially stained-glass windows
damaged so as to are monumental The Church of St Andrew in Ulica Grodzka
bestow a patina of age. compositions of great
At No. 1, for example, expressive power and The adjacent Baroque building
is the house “At the Sign represent one of the is the former Catholic Church
of the Singing Frog”. highest achievements of of St Martin (Kościół św.
Close by is the house “At the Sign of the the Secessionist stained- Marcina). Built between 1637
“At the Sign of the Singing Frog” glass movement. and 1640 for the Discalced
Donkey”, with a Particularly noteworthy Carmelites, it is now in the
motto in Latin that translates as is Let there be Light (see p55), hands of the Evangelical Church
“Every man is master of his own which shows the figure of God of the Augsburg Confession.
fate”. The architect gave to his the Father creating the world.
own house the motto “Festina The cloisters are lined with
p Church of Saints
lente”, or “Make haste slowly”. murals that include the Gallery
of Krakovian Bishops, in which Peter and Paul
the finest portrait is that of ul. Grodzka 54. Tel 12 422 65 73. v 6,
i Franciscan
Bishop Piotr Tomicki, painted 8, 10, 13, 18. Open 9am–7pm Mon–
Church by Stanisław Samostrzelnik Fri, 9am–5:30pm Sat, 1:30–5:30pm
pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5. Tel 12 422 some time before 1535. Sun; also during services. &
53 76. @ 124, 152, 304, 424, 502.
v 1, 6, 8, 18. Open 6am–7:45pm The Church of Saints Peter and
daily. Closed during services.
o Ulica Grodzka Paul (Kościół sw. Piotra i Pawła)
∑ franciszkanska.pl v 6, 8, 10, 13, 18. is one of the most beautiful
early Baroque churches in
The origins of the Gothic Many interesting buildings Poland. It was built for the
Franciscan church go back to give this picturesque, winding Jesuits soon after their arrival
the 13th and 15th centuries, street leading from the Main in Krakow.
although rebuilding in the Market Square to the Wawel Work began in 1596, but after
17th and 19th centuries has a historical atmosphere. a structural disaster in 1605, the
considerably altered its At No. 53 is the cloistered church was almost completely
courtyard of the Collegium rebuilt to the design of an
Iuridicum, a law college architect who remains unknown
founded in the 15th century to this day.
and rebuilt in 1718. A little The church is enclosed by
further along rises the façade railings topped with the twelve
of the Church of Saints Peter figures of the apostles dating
and Paul, with the white stone from 1715–22. The interior of
tower of the 13th-century the building contains fine
Romanesque Church of St stuccowork by Giovanni
Andrew (Kościół św. Andrzeja) Battista Falconi and rich
gleaming behind it. The walls Baroque furnishings. The high
of the latter conceal an earlier, altar and the organ screen,
late 11th-century building. designed by Kacper Bażanka,
The interior was radically are particularly noteworthy.
Stained-glass window in the altered around 1702 by Among the many funerary
Franciscan church Baldassare Fontana. monuments, the most striking
KRAKOW 143
is the black-and-white marble of the room at No. 21 where

tomb of Bishop Andrzej Tomicki, the future pontiff lived.
dating from 1695–6. The house at No. 15 also
dates from the 14th century,
although its present form is a
result of rebuilding during the
Renaissance era. The house is
the headquarters of the
Ukrainian Art Gallery,
which has an interesting
collection of icons from
disused Greek-Catholic and
Orthodox churches in
southeastern Poland.
A visit to Cricoteka, at No. 5,
is a different kind of artistic Helenka, a pastel portrait by Stanisław
experience. Cricoteka was Wyspiański
Baroque façade of the Jesuit Church of the home of the famous avant-
Saints Peter and Paul garde theatre group Cricot 2, s Szołaysky House
founded by Tadeusz Kantor
pl. Szczepański 9. Tel 12 433 54 50. v
(1915–90) in 1956. A painter,
2, 4, 7, 14, 18, 19, 24. Open 10am–6pm
a Ulica Kanonicza stage-set designer and Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm Sun. & (free on
v 1, 6, 8, 13. Archdiocesan Museum: producer of “happenings”, Sun). 8 7 -
Tel 12 421 89 63. Open 10am–4pm Kantor was an extremely
Tue–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat, Sun. versatile artist, and the shows Polish art of the late 19th to early
Ukrainian Art Gallery: Tel 12 421 he staged at Cricoteka – for 20th century is displayed at this
92 94. Open 11am–4pm Thu–Sat. example, Wielopole, Wielopole museum. It features many works
Cricoteka: Tel 12 422 83 32. Open and The Dead Class – brought by Stanisław Wyspiański, Krakow’s
10am–1pm Mon–Fri (to 6pm Tue). him universal renown. His foremost Art Nouveau artist,
∑ cricoteka.com.pl company continued his work including designs for stained-
after his death. The Gothic glass windows, stage sets, textiles
Ulica Kanonicza is named house contains no stage – just and pastel drawings, as well as
after the canons of the archives and documents that works by other Polish artists of
Krakow Chapterhouse, who relate the history of the the same period. There are
once had their houses here. theatrical company. regular temporary exhibitions.
Most of the houses were
established in the Middle
Ages, but in the course of
later rebuilding they were
embellished with Renaissance,
Baroque and Neo-Classical
elements. They constitute one
of the most important groups
of historical buildings in
Krakow today.
The finest of these houses is
considered to be the Deanery,
at No. 21. Its present form dates
from the 1580s – a rebuilding
project probably undertaken
by the Italian architect Santi
Gucci that preserved the
arcaded courtyard and the
mysterious decoration of
the façade.
During the 1960s, Karol
Wojtyła – later Pope John
Paul II – lived in this house.
The adjacent house at No. 19,
with a modest Neo-Classical
façade, contains the Arch-
diocesan Museum, which
has many valuable religious
artifacts and a reconstruction Monumental portal of the Deanery in Ulica Kanonicza
The Wawel
On the Wawel, the Vistulanians built a
citadel. It was replaced by a series of
buildings, including the Renaissance castle
and Gothic cathedral that stand there
today. Once the site of coronations and
h . Wawel Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski)
royal burials, the Royal Cathedral is The Wawel Royal Castle, once home to the Jagiellonian
regarded by Poles as a spiritual shrine. kings, has survived without major damage. It incorporates
The Wawel Royal Castle beside it, once the walls of older Gothic buildings.
the hub of cultural and political life in
Poland, is a symbol of national identity.
d Fortifications on the Wawel

The Wawel’s systems of
fortification have been
demolished and renewed
several times since the
Middle Ages – right
up to the 20th
century.
j . Cathedral
The Gothic cathedral, lined
with royal burial chapels
from different ages, has
some extraordinarily
valuable furnishings.
f Cathedral Museum
Important artifacts from the
cathedral treasury are on display
here, including the magnificent
robe of Stanisław August
Poniatowski (1764–95).
Key
Visitor Centre
Suggested route

KRAKOW 145
d Fortifications on
the Wawel
Wawel. v 6, 8, 10, 13, 18.
Sandomierska Tower Open May–Sep:
daily; Oct: Sat & Sun. &
The Wawel was fortified from

early times. Only fragments of
Locator Map the oldest Gothic fortifications
remain, but three towers raised
in the second half of the 1400s Embroidered hood of Bishop Trzebicki’s cope,
survive; they are known as the Cathedral Museum
Sandomierska Tower, the
Senators’ Tower and the Thieves’ embroidery depicting scenes
Tower. Of the fortifications dating from the life of St Stanisław
from the 16th to the 17th (see pp44–5). The museum also
centuries the most interesting is contains replicas of funeral
the Vasa Gate. Since 1921 it has regalia, royal swords and
been crowned with a monument trophies from battles won.
to the 18th-century national hero
Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Wawel g “Lost Wawel”
continued to play a defensive
role into the 19th century, and a Exhibition
relatively well-preserved system Wawel 5. Tel 12 422 51 55. v 3, 6, 8,
of fortifications dating from the 10, 18, 40. Open Apr–Oct:
late 18th to mid-19th centuries 9:30am–1pm Mon, 9:30am–5pm Tue–
can still be seen today. Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Mar:
9:30am–4pm Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm
Sun. & (free on Sun Nov–Mar).
∑ wawel.krakow.pl
For anyone who is interested in

archaeology, this exhibition is a
real delight. The display charts
the development of the Wawel
over a considerable period of
time, and includes a virtual
image of the Wawel buildings
as they existed in the early
Middle Ages, archaeological
finds from Wawel hill, and a
Sandomierska Tower, one of three towers partially reconstructed pre-
on the Wawel Romanesque chapel dedicated
to the Blessed Virgin (Saints Felix
and Adauctus).
f Cathedral
Built at the turn of the 11th
Museum century, the chapel was
Wawel 3. Tel 12 429 33 21. v 6, 8, discovered during research
10, 13, 18. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat work carried out in 1917.
g “Lost Wawel”
Exhibition (Oct–Mar: to 4pm). Closed 1 Jan,
Various finds from Easter, Corpus Christi, 15 Aug,
archaeological Christmas. &
excavations on the
Wawel hill are This museum is located in
exhibited. buildings near the cathedral
and contains a valuable
collection of pieces from the
cathedral treasury. Here visitors
can admire liturgical vessels and
0 metres 50 vestments; one of the finest is
the chasuble of Bishop Piotr
0 yards 50
Kmita, which dates from 1504 Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, part of the
and is ornamented with quilted “Lost Wawel” exhibition
h The Wawel Royal Castle

One of the most magnificent Renaissance residences in Central Europe,
the Wawel Royal Castle was built for Zygmunt I, the penultimate ruler
of the Jagiellonian dynasty. The four-winged palace, built in 1502–36 but
incorporating the walls of a 14th-century building that stood on the site, was
designed and constructed by the Italian architects Francisco Fiorentino and
Bartolomeo Berrecci. After the royal court was transferred from Krakow to
Warsaw, the palace fell into neglect, and during the era of the Partitions it Senators’ Hall
served as a barracks. At the beginning of the 20th century the castle was
given to the city of Krakow, which started a restoration programme and
turned it into a museum.
Royal Treasury and Armoury

The Royal Armoury has a rich
collection of arms and armour.
The Royal Treasury has many
precious objects, including this
chalice from the abbey at Tyniec.
Senators’
Staircase
1st floor
Castle Guide
The area open to visitors consists of part of the
ground floor of the Royal Castle, where items from
the Royal Treasury and Royal Armoury are displayed,
as well as the halls on the first and second floors of
the east and north wings. The castle’s Oriental
collection fills the first floor of the west wing.
The Castle Courtyard

A mix of architectural styles can be found at the castle. One of
the highlights is the beautiful Renaissance-style courtyard,
which was built in the 16th century.
Key
Royal Apartments
Royal Treasury
Royal Armoury Entrance to Royal
Oriental Collection Treasury and Royal
Non-exhibition space Entrance to courtyard Armoury

KRAKOW 147
. Bird Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The chamber is part of
a suite furnished in the Practical Information
early Baroque style for Wawel Hill. Tel 12 422 51 55.
Zygmunt III Vasa. Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Fri,
9:30am–4:45pm Sat & Sun (Oct–
Mar: to 3:45pm daily). Consult the
website first. Closed 1 Jan, Easter
Sat & Sun, 1 & 11 Nov, 24, 25 & 31
Dec. & (free Mon Apr–Oct; Sun
Nov–Mar). 8 9 7 - =
∑ wawel.krakow.pl
2nd floor
Transport
@ 184, 504. v 6, 8, 10, 13, 18.
Audience
hall stairs
. Deputies’ (Envoys’) Hall

Used for debates by the lower house of
Parliament (Sejm), this hall features a coffered
ceiling containing realistically carved heads,
as well as tapestries and a decorative frieze.
Ground floor
Bedchamber
The bedchamber is adorned with Italian paintings of
the 14th and 15th centuries donated by Countess
Karolina Lanckorońska. They include the enchanting
Entrance to State Angel by Simone Martini.
Rooms and Royal
Apartments
Interior of the Hen’s Foot

The 14th-century Hen’s Foot
tower was rebuilt after fire
damage in the 16th and
17th centuries. The rooms
here are among the most
beautiful in the castle.
j The Cathedral
The Cathedral of Saints Stanisław and
Wacław, which stands on the Wawel in
Krakow, is one of the most important
churches in Poland. Before the present
cathedral was erected (1320–64), two earlier
churches stood on the site. The cathedral
has many fine features, including a series
of chapels founded by rulers and bishops,
the most beautiful being the Renaissance
Zygmunt Chapel. There are royal tombs
in both the cathedral and the Crypt of
St Leonard, a remnant of the Romanesque
Cathedral of St Wacław begun in 1038.
Zygmunt Bell
This is the largest
bell in Poland. It
was made in
1520, weighs
almost 11 tonnes
and has a diameter
of over 2 m (6 ft).
Main entrance
. Tomb of Kazimierz the Jagiellonian

This royal tomb in the Chapel of the Holy
Cross, completed in 1492, is one of the last
commissions that the German sculptor Veit
Stoss fulfilled in Poland.
Shrine of St Stanisław
The silver coffin
containing the relics of
KEY St Stanisław, the bishop
of Krakow to whom the
1 The top of the clock tower is cathedral is dedicated,
decorated with statues of saints. was made in 1669–71 by
2 High altar Pieter van der Rennen, a
goldsmith from Gdańsk.
KRAKOW 149
Wawel 3. Tel 12 429 95 16. Open
9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 12:30–5pm
Sun (Oct–Mar: 4pm). & 7 8
Transport
v 3, 6, 8, 10, 18, 40.
Crypt of the Pauline Church on the Rock,
Stalls pantheon to Polish creativity
The early Baroque oak stalls
in the chancel were made k Pauline Church
around 1620. on the Rock
ul. Skałeczna 15. Tel 12 421 72 44.
@ 101, 112, 124, 144, 162, 164, 169,
173, 179, 184, 194, 504. v 8, 10, 13,
18, 22. Open 8am–6pm daily. Crypt of
Honour Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
daily; Nov–Mar: by appt. &
The impressive Baroque Pauline

Church on the Rock (Kościół
Paulinów na Skałce), with its
adjoining monastery complex,
was built in 1733–42 by Gerhard
Müntzer in collaboration with
Antoni Solari. The present church
. Zygmunt Chapel was preceded by two earlier
The chapel containing buildings. St Stanisław, Bishop
the tombs of the two of Krakow, was murdered at
last Jagiellonian kings is the foot of the altar of the
the jewel of Italian Romanesque church, the first to
Renaissance art in Poland. be built on the site (see pp44–5).
The tomb of Zygmunt the The interior includes Baroque
Old was made after 1530 stuccowork by Jan Lehnert. The
by Bartolomeo Berrecci. crypt was converted by Teofil
That of Zygmunt August Żebrawski into a pantheon to
was made in 1574–5 by Polish writers and artists,
Santi Gucci. including the painters Jacek
Malczewski (1854–1929) and
Henryk Siemiradzki (1843–1902),
the writers and poets Józef
Ignacy Kraszewski (1812–77),
Adam Asnyk (1839–97) and
Wincenty Pol (1807–72), and the
artist and writer Stanisław
Wyspiański (1869–1907).
Return along Ulica Skałeczna
towards Ulica Augustiańska and
take a look at the beautiful
Gothic Convent and Church
of St Catherine (Kościół
św. Katarzyny), begun in the
mid-14th century. It once
belonged to the Augustinian
order, but was deconsecrated
and used as a warehouse. Of the
original features only the high
Royal tombs altar remains. The 15th-century
These Baroque sarcophagi were made for Hungarian Chapel (Kaplica
members of the royal Vasa dynasty. The Węgierska) next door is
cathedral is the final resting place of most connected by a covered bridge
of the Polish kings, as well as national over Ulica Skałeczna to the
heroes and revered poets. Baroque Augustinian convent.
l Church of Corpus Renaissance style, the Old survived. Fragments of

Christi Synagogue replaced an shattered tombstones have
earlier Gothic synagogue been built into the cemetery
ul. Bożego Ciała 26. Tel 12 430 59 95. that burned down in 1557. wall abutting Ulica Szeroka.
@ 504. v 6, 8, 10, 18. Open 9am–
In the Hall of Prayer you will This part of town was
6pm daily. immortalized in Steven
find a reconstructed bema
The mighty Gothic Church of and Torah Ark. Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List.
Corpus Christi was built as the The synagogue houses The district now has shops and
parish church of the town of a branch of the Historical kosher restaurants; the family
Kazimierz, which was founded Museum. The displays within home of Helena Rubinstein,
to the south of the castle by consist of some artifacts founder of the cosmetics
Kazimierz the Great in the used in Jewish rituals, and business, is also here.
14th century. Work on the documents relating to the On the other side of the
church began around 1340, history of Krakovian Jews and Vistula is the Eagle Pharmacy,
continuing into the early their martyrdom during the which played a vital role as a
15th century. The basilica-like Nazi occupation in World War II. shelter and communication
interior contains some fine hub for the inhabitants of the
works of art in the Baroque ghetto during World War II. It
style, including the now houses an exhibition on
magnificent high altar of the history of Krakow’s Jews.
1634–7, with its painting of
The Birth of Christ by Tomasso
Dolabella; a fine mid-18th- cPremonstratensian
century pulpit; and stalls
dating from 1632, originally Church
built for the monks (although ul. Kościuszki 88. Tel 12 427 13 18. @ ,
the church has been in the 100, 109, 209, 229, 239, 249, 259, 269,
care of canons since the 15th 504. v 1, 2, 6.
century). The monastery is on
the north side of the church. This church (Kościół Norbertanek)
and convent on the banks of
the Vistula at Zwierzyniec was
z Old Synagogue founded in 1162. The present
Tomb in Remuh Cemetery from the first appearance of the small nave
ul. Szeroka 24. @ 184, 504. v 6, 8, 13. half of the 17th century
Museum of Jewish History: Tel 12 422 church is due to rebuilding in
09 62. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–2pm 1595–1604. The extensive
x Remuh Cemetery convent also dates from the
Mon, 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
10am–2pm Mon, 9am–4pm Tue–Thu, and Synagogue early 17th century.
Sat & Sun, 10am–5pm Fri. & (free on The Chapel of St Margaret
ul. Szeroka 40. Tel 12 429 57 35. @
Mon). ∑ mhk.pl (Kaplica św. Małgorzaty), an
184, 504. v 6, 8, 13. Open 9am–6pm
Sun–Fri. ^ Eagle Pharmacy: (Apteka octagonal building in the early
Built by Matteo Gucci in the pod Orłem) Plac Bohaterów Getta 18. Baroque style, is on nearby Ulica
mid-16th century in the Tel 12 656 56 25. Open 10am–2pm św. Bronisława. Behind the
Mon, 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed 2nd chapel is the Church of Our
Tue of each month. & (free Mon). Saviour (Kościół Najświętszego
Salwatora). Built in the second
The humble prayer house half of the 12th century, it was
known as the Remuh is one remodelled at the beginning of
of two synagogues in Krakow the 17th, when it was reduced
that are still in use. It was built to a small nave church with a
around 1557 by Izrael ben tower at the west end.
Józef for his son Mojżesz Isserles,
a famous scholar, rabbi and
reputed miracle worker,
v Decjusz Villa
known as Remuh. Inside, the al. 28 Lipca 1943 r. 17a. Tel 12 425 36
Renaissance Torah Ark and 38. @ 102, 134, 152, 292. For details
the bema, rebuilt as a replica of the cultural programme, visit the
of the original, have survived. website ∑ villa.org.pl
Behind the synagogue is one
of the most important Jewish In the charming residential
cemeteries in Europe. Despite district of Wola Justowska
the damage that the cemetery stands the Decjusz Villa, a
Gothic-Renaissance bema in the Old suffered during World War II, manor house whose origins
Synagogue many of the tombstones have go back to the late Middle Ages.
KRAKOW 151
n Benedictine factory, part of the Historical

Abbey in Tyniec Museum of Krakow (see p137),
features an interactive exhibition
ul. Benedyktyńska 37. Tel 12 688 54 on the occupation of 1939–45.
50. @ 112, 203. Open daily for A section of the building now
morning services & 1–6:30pm.
∑ tyniec.benedyktyni.pl
houses MOCAK (Museum of
Contemporary Art in Krakow),
This impressive abbey is set which displays works by major
on a high chalky outcrop international artists as well as
overlooking the River Vistula. hosting temporary exhibitions.
Decjusz Villa from the garden, the arcaded The history of the abbey goes
loggia flanked by towers back to the mid-11th century.
Originally, a Romanesque , Cistercian Abbey
It was rebuilt around 1530 in the basilica stood on the site. in Mogiła
Renaissance style for Justus It was replaced in the 15th ul. Klasztorna 11. Tel 12 644 23 31.
Ludwik Decjusz, and acquired century by a Gothic church. @ 123, 153, 174, 193. £ 15, 17.
its present shape around 1620, The present Baroque abbey Open 6am–7pm.
when Stanisław Lubomirski, was built in 1618–22.
Palatine of Krakow, had it Although in the course of its Behind the fine Baroque façade
extended and remodelled in the stormy history the church has of the church, designed and
early Baroque style. lost many fine and valuable erected by Franciszek Moser
Visitors who want to make features, it still retains its in 1779–80, lies a much older
sure they get the best view of monumental Baroque altars. interior. Founded by Bishop Iwo
the Decjusz Villa, an impressive Some elements of the original Odrowąż, the Cistercian abbey
three-storey arcaded loggia that Romanesque building have was built in the 13th century;
is flanked by towers, should survived in the underground the church was consecrated in
view it from the garden. Today parts of the abbey adjacent to 1266. The interior of the early
the villa houses the European the church. Gothic basilica, which contains a
Academy. There is a good number of Renaissance paintings
restaurant in the basement. by Stanisław Samostrzelnik, has
survived alongside later, mainly
Baroque, features.
b Camaldolite Other interesting parts of the
abbey are the Gothic cloisters
Monastery in and the chapterhouse, which
Bielany has paintings by the 19th-
ul. Konarowa 1–16. Tel 12 429 76 10. century artist Michał Stachowicz.
@ 109, 209, 229, 239, 269. Open to These depict the legend of
men: during services; to women: 2 and Wanda, whose patriotism led
7 Feb, 25 Mar, Easter, Whitsun, 19 Jun, her to throw herself into the
the first Sun after 15 Aug, 8 Sep, Vistula. Her tomb, situated under
25 Dec. Benedictine abbey, Tyniec, on a chalky a tumulus, is located nearby.
outcrop above the Vistula
Seen from afar, this monolithic
Mannerist-Baroque monastery . Polish Aviation
set on Srebrna Góra (Silver m Schindler’s
Mountain) appears to be a Factory and MOCAK Museum
tempting tourist attraction. al. Jana Pawła II 39. v 5, 9, 10, 15, 40,
ul. Lipowa 4. v 6, 7, 11, 13, 23, 24, 50,
However, the monks, who are 51. Tel 12 257 10 17. Open Apr–Oct:
52. Tel 12 640 99 60. Open 9am–5pm
the monastery’s sole 10am–8pm daily (to 4pm Mon, to 2pm
Tue (outdoor exhibition only) & Wed–
inhabitants, are committed to Sun. & (free Tue). 8
first Mon of month); Nov–Mar: 10am–
absolute silence and no contact ∑ muzeumlotnictwa.pl
6pm daily (to 2pm Mon). & (free Mon).
with the outside world. Visits are 8 MOCAK: Open 11am–7pm Tue–
therefore severely restricted, Sun. & (free Tue). ∑ mhk.pl Located on the Rakowice-
especially for women. Czyżyny airfield, one of Europe’s
The monastery was founded in Located in the former industrial oldest military airfields (est.
the early 17th century by district of Zabłocie, Schindler’s 1912), this museum has more
Valentin von Säbisch and Factory is a symbol of than 200 aircraft, including
completed by Andrea Spezza. It humanitarian courage. In 1943, pre-war Polish fighter planes,
is richly adorned with Baroque the factory’s German owner, Spitfires, German Albatrosses
features, and from the windows Oskar Schindler, protected his and Soviet Kakaruzniks. There
of the chapel it is possible to Jewish workers by claiming that are also 22 aeroplanes that were
glimpse the monks’ dwellings, to they were essential to the once part of Hermann Göring’s
which visitors are not admitted. running of his business. The personal collection.
M AŁOPOLSKA
LESSER POLAND
Małopolska is the country’s most picturesque and varied
region. Attractions such as the ski resort of Zakopane,
hiking trails in the Tatra Mountains, the miraculous Black
Madonna of Częstochowa and a lively folk tradition make it
Poland’s most popular tourist destination. Krakow, not only
the regional capital but the spiritual and historic capital of the
nation, is one of the noblest cities in Europe.
In the 9th century, the Vistulanian tribe centres of Polish culture, retaining
established a state in Małopolska. Their their identity despite a succession of
capital was Krakow, or Wiślica. In 990, annexations. Not until 1918, when Poland
Małopolska became part of the Polanian at last regained its independence, did
duchy of Mieszko I, and in 1039, Prince Małopolska again become part of the
Kazimierz the Restorer made Krakow Polish state.
the centre of his realm of power. For The Małopolska region is dotted with
centuries, Małopolska was the heart of picturesque towns, ruined castles, palaces,
Poland. However, its importance began country mansions, great monasteries and
to wane at the end of the 16th century, pretty wooden churches. The eastern
when the capital of the Republic was fringes of the region are distinguished by
moved to Warsaw. their Uniate Orthodox churches. There
After the Partitions of Poland, Małopolska are also many monuments to the Jewish
went into a gradual decline. While Galicia, population that was present in Małopolska
its southern part, came under Austrian before 1945.
rule, its northern part was incorporated In many parts of the region, folk customs
into the Russian Empire. When Galicia survive and flourish, nowhere more than
gained autonomy within the Austro- in the Podhale region; in Zakopane, the
Hungarian Empire, Galician towns, and regional capital of Podhale, folklore and
especially Krakow, became important folk art are a local industry.
The Galician small town of Stary Sącz, at the foot of the Sądecky Beskidy Mountains
The verdant landscape around Trzy Korony Peak, in the Pieniny Mountains
Exploring Małopolska
Małopolska, in the south of Poland, is the country’s main
tourist region. Apart from Krakow, the greatest attractions
for visitors are the mountain ski resort of Zakopane, which
is the winter sports capital, and the picturesque Tatra
Mountains. In summer many hikers are drawn to the
region, and its mountains are traversed by well-marked
hiking trails. There are numerous welcoming hostels for
those in need of overnight shelter. Parts of the Beskid
Niski Mountains are almost without human habitation,
so that it is still possible to walk for several hours without
encountering a single living soul. Spiritual relief can be Interior of a cottage in Zalipie, with
traditional decoration
found deep within the forests, where walkers may be
surprised to encounter pretty wooden churches.
Getting Around
Krakow and Rzeszów can be Łodź
reached by air. The larger towns all
have good rail links with the rest
ica
Pil
of the country. Some small villages OBLĘGOREK
can only be reached by bus or car. KIELCE
CZĘSTOCHOWA Włoszczowa
The E77 highway goes north and Chęciny
south from Krakow, while the E40
Olsztyn
goes eastwards through Tarnów, Janòw ŚWIĘTO
Rzeszów and Przemyśl. Parallel to
it, but further south, major road Szczekociny Jędrzejów
EA
28 connects Nowy Sącz with

G
Biecz, Krosno and Sanok.

LE
Zawiercie PIŃCZÓW
S’
Ogrodzieniec
N
E
ST
Miechów
WIŚLICA
S
Key Olkusz
T
Katowice
R
Motorway
A
L Proszowice
I
Motorway under construction Ojcôw

Chrzanów National
Main road Park
Minor road
Krakow
OŚWIĘCIM NIEPOŁOMICE
Main railway WIELICZKA Bochnia
Minor railway
NOWY
International border WADOWICE KALWARIA WIŚNICZ
Regional border ZEBRZYDOWSKA
Peak BIELSKO- MAŁOPOLSKIE

BIAŁA
Sucha
Beskidzka Limanowa
ŻYWIEC
Jordanów
Babia Góra Rabka
Pilsko 1725m STARY SĄCZ
1557m
D u na jec
DĘBNO PODHALAŃSKIE DUNAJEC
RAFT RIDE
CHOCHOŁÓW
ZAKOPANE
Rysy
2499m
A detail of Neo-Classical decorative moulding in the

palace at Łańcut
MAŁOPOLSKA LESSER POLAND 155
Sights at a Glance
r Wiślica b Krynica
1 Oblęgorek t Pińczów n Biecz
2 Kielce y Częstochowa pp162–3 m Krosno
3 Holy Cross Mountains i Oświęcim (Auschwitz) . Krasiczyn Castle
4 Wąchock o Bielsko-Biała / Przemyśl
5 Opatów p Żywiec ! Jarosław
6 Ujazd a Wadowice @ Leżajsk
7 Sandomierz s Kalwaria Zebrzydowska £ Łańcut pp178–9
8 Baranów Sandomierski d Wieliczka $ Rzeszów
9 Rytwiany f Niepołomice
0 Kurozwęki g Zalipie
Tours
q Szydłów h Tarnów u Eagles’ Nests Trail
w Grabki Duże j Dębno near Brzeska c Dunajec Raft Ride
e Busko-Zdrój k Nowy Wiśnicz , Bieszczady Mountains Tour
l Chochołów
z Zakopane
Radom x Dębno Podhalańskie
v Stary Sącz
Skarżysko-
Kamienna
WĄCHOCK
Vistula
HOLY BodzentynOstrowiec
CRO Świętokrzyski
SS M
OU
NT
AI OPATÓW
NS
KRZYSKIE Lublin Niedzica Castle overlooking the artificial lake
UJAZD on the Dunajec
SANDOMIERZ
SZYDŁÓW Klimontów
GRABKI KUROZWĘKI Stalowa Wola
DUŻE Tarnobrzeg
RYTWIANY Nisko
BUSKO- BARANÓW Sa
ZDRÓJ SANDOMIERSKI
n
W i s ł ok
tu la
Vis Mielec
a
ZALIPIE Kolbuszowa Sokołow LEŻAJSK

Małopolski
Dąbrowa Lubaczów
Tarnowska
ŁAŃCUT Przeworsk
RZESZÓW Korczowa
TARNÓW Dębica JAROSŁAW
Radymno
DĘBNO NEAR Pilzno
BRZESKA PODKARPACKIE
Strzyżów Krzywcza PRZEMYŚL
KRASICZYN
Odrzykoń CASTLE Lviv
Harklowa
BIECZ
KROSNO Brzozów
Nowy Sącz
Gorlice
Sanok
Dukla
Zagórz
Carpathian Mou
Lesko
nta M BI
KRYNICA O E Solina
in UN SZC
Muszyna s TA Z A
IN D
Komańcza S T Y
OU
R
0 kilometres 25 Bieszczady
National Tarnica
0 miles 25 Park 1346m

during the Sejm of 1641. These

events are illustrated on the
palace ceilings, which were
painted in 1641.
The period interiors form part
of the National Museum in the
palace. There is also an excellent
gallery of Polish painting here.
Next to the palace is the
cathedral, built on the site
of an earlier church of 1632–5,
the time of Bishop Zadzik.
Several dozen wooden village
buildings from the area around
Kielce are laid out over an area
of 4.2 sq km (1.6 sq miles) in the
Kielce Rural Museum.
The Henryk Sienkiewicz Museum in Oblęgorek E National Museum

pl. Zamkowy 1. Tel 41 344 40 15.
1 Oblęgorek doorways and beamed ceilings Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
are original. (free on Sun). 7 8 ∑ mnki.pl
Road map E5. * 950. @
The palace was built in E Kielce Rural Museum
The writer Henryk Sienkiewicz 1637–41, probably by the royal Temporary exhibition: ul. Jana Pawła II
(see p31) received a small architect Giovanni Trevano, 6. Tel 41 344 92 97. Open 9am–5pm
manor house in the village of under the direction of Tomasso Tue–Sun. & (free on Sun). 7
Oblęgorek as a gift from the Poncino, for the Bishop of ∑ mwk.com.pl Skansen: in Tokarnia:
nation in 1900. It is an eclectic Krakow, Jakub Zadzik. During Tel 41 315 41 71. Open Apr–Oct:
building with a tall circular the reign of Zygmunt III, this 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–
tower. The interior remains exceptional clergyman was in 3pm Tue–Sun. & 7 8 0 -
as it was when Sienkiewicz charge of the Republic’s foreign
lived and worked here. Today policy, successfully making Environs
it houses the Henryk peace with Russia and The ruins of a 13th-century
Sienkiewicz Museum. establishing a long-standing castle dominate the town of
Sienkiewicz is the best-known ceasefire with Sweden. His role Chęciny, 15 km (9 miles) to the
Polish novelist. He received as a bishop, however, was west of Kielce. Paradise Cave
the Nobel Prize for Literature inglorious. He contributed (Jaskinia Raj), to the north of
for his historical novel Quo to the shameful decision to Chęciny, contains spectacular
Vadis? in 1905. condemn the Polish Brethren stalactites and stalagmites.
E Henryk Sienkiewicz Museum

Tel 41 303 04 26. Open 9am–4pm
Tue–Sun. &
2 Kielce
Road map E5. * 201,000. £ @
n pl. Niepodległości 1 (41 348 00 60).
Tel 41 345 86 81. ∑ um.kielce.pl
In a city whose beauty has

been defaced by buildings
that went up after World War II,
the Bishops’ Palace stands out
like a jewel. It is an exceptionally
fine example of a well-
preserved aristocratic town
house of the first half of the
17th century (see p51). The
early Baroque façades with
four corner towers have been
preserved almost intact, as has
the decoration of the rooms
on the first floor. The marble The dining hall in the Bishops’ Palace in Kielce
3 Holy Cross Świętokrzyski National Park.

The primeval forest of fir trees
Mountains that once covered the range
Road map E5. £ @ n 41 367 64 was seriously damaged by acid
36 or 367 60 11. rain in the 1970s and 1980s, so
that only vestiges remain today.
In geological terms, the Holy In ancient times Łysa Góra, the
Cross Mountains (Góry second-highest peak in the Holy
Świętokrzyskie) – part of the Cross Mountains, was a pagan
Małopolska uplands – are place of worship. Its slopes are
among the oldest in Europe. covered with gołoborza, heaps
Eroded over many thousands of of broken rock. Legend tells of
years, they are neither high nor the witches’ sabbaths that are Ruins of the Baroque Bishops’ Palace at
steep, but they are exceptionally said to have taken place here. Bodzentyn
rich in minerals, which have The Benedictine abbey in
been exploited since ancient Święty Krzyż on the summit of is a glass coffin containing the
times. The remains of prehistoric Łysa Góra was built in the 12th supposedly mummified body of
mines and furnaces have been century and extended during Prince Jeremi Wiśniowiecki. In
found here. The Łysogóry range, the rule of the Jagiellonian his novel With Fire and Sword
with Mount Łysica at a mere 612 dynasty. The building, which Henryk Sienkiewicz portrayed
m (2,000 ft), the highest peak in replaces an earlier Romanesque this magnate as a saviour, and
the mountains, lies within the church, was built in 1782–9 and hero of the battles against
has predominantly Baroque and Ukrainian insurgents in 1648.
Neo-Classical features. The History judges him less kindly: a
interior is decorated with seasoned soldier, an unimagina-
paintings by the 18th-century tive politician and a brute, who
artist Franciszek Smuglewicz. by passing sentences of
The cloisters and vestry, with impalement earned himself the
late Baroque frescoes, date from nickname Palej (The Impaler).
the 15th century. The domed Bodzentyn, north of
chapel of the Oleśnicki family, Łysogóry, is worth a visit for its
dating from the 17th century, is 18th-century Gothic parish
the abbey’s most outstanding church. The Renaissance altar
feature. The relic of the Holy comes from Wawel Cathedral
Cross, kept in the chapel since in Krakow. The stately ruins of
Broken rock on the Łysogóry slopes, 1723, attracts crowds of pilgrims. the Bishops’ Palace can also be
Świętokrzyski National Park In the crypt beneath the chapel seen in the town.
Świętokrzyski National Park

The Łysogóry range constitutes the major part of the park. Natural Key
features of particular interest include gołoborza, created by the Hiking trail
fragmentation of quartzite sandstone, and vestiges of the primeval
fir forest. Native Polish larch can be seen on Chełmowa Góra. Road
Bukowa Góra 0 kilometres 3

482 m (1,582 ft)
0 miles 3
•
Bodzentyn Psarka
Psarka
412 m (1,352 ft)
Cza
rna
Św. Katarzyna Wo • Sosnówka
• da
Dębno •
Po
rz Radki •
k
yw Chełmowa Góra
J ian
ka 351 m (1,152 ft)
Łysica
612 m (2,008 ft) Podłysica
Krajno
• 556 m (1,825 ft) Nowa
z Słupia
c
ko
•
ar J Św. Krzyż
•
W Łysa Góra
595 m (1,953 ft)
•
•
nianka Poduchowne
Wola Jachowa Kako Bieliny

4 Wąchock
Road map E4. * 2,900. £ @
Cistercian Abbey: ul. Koscielna 14.
Tel 41 275 02 00. Open daily.
Wąchock is a neat town with a

well-preserved Cistercian abbey.
It was founded in 1179 by Gedko
z Gryfitów, Bishop of Krakow. The
church, built in the early 13th
century, has Romanesque and
Gothic features. Although the
architect is unknown, the
inscription “Simon” that can be
seen on the façade is thought
to be his signature. The interior
is decorated with mural
paintings. The most important
Romanesque interiors of the
abbey – those of the chapter
house and the rooms off the Collegiate Church of St Martin in Opatów
cloisters – have been preserved
almost intact. The abbey was dates from 1533–6 and bears a Locci the Elder in 1621–44. It
remodelled in the 1600s, the relief known as the Opatów is one of the most eccentric
façade being given the Lament (see pp48–9). The marble residences of its time in Europe
appearance of a palace with tombstone of Anna Szydłowiecka (see pp50–51). Having been
the addition of arcades and carved by Bernardino de Gianotis attacked during the Swedish
an enormous tower. in 1536 is also noteworthy. Deluge (see p50), the castle fell
The curious holes and ruts in into neglect. The palace was
the walls of the church are an enormous, and for 300 years its
5 Opatów unusual mark of the past. walls provided the surrounding
Road map E5. * 6,600. @ Noblemen would use the villages with vast amounts of
church walls to sharpen their building material. However, the
The collegiate church of St Martin sabres, which they would often magnificent ruins are still
(Kolegiata św. Marcina), built in do on horseback. This explains extremely impressive.
the first half of the 12th century, why the holes are so high.
is among the best-preserved Environs
Romanesque churches in Poland. Ossolin, situated 15 km (9 miles)
The façade has two quadrilateral 6 Ujazd to the east of Ujazd, is the town
towers and representations of from which the Ossoliński family
Road map E5. * 1,600. @ n 77
dragons and plants on its borders. came. The historic remains here
463 70 37. Krzyżtopór Castle: Tel 15
The interior contains interesting are much more modest. It
860 11 33. ∑ ujazd.pl
tombs, the most eminent being survived an explosion in 1816,
the one with the bronze effigy of The main attraction in Ujazd are inflicted by subsequent owners
Krzysztof Szydłowiecki, the royal the ruins of Krzyżtopór Castle, who sought to blow it up in
chancellor who became the built for the Palatine Krzysztof search of the treasure rumoured
owner of Opatów. The tomb Ossoliński, probably by Agostino to be hidden there.
The stately ruins of Krzyżtopór Castle in Ujazd

The Mannerist and Baroque refurbished Gothic and Renais-

collegiate church in Klimontów, sance castle. The museum
13 km (8 miles) east of Ujazd, and contains archaeological, ethno-
begun in 1643, is something of an graphic and historical displays.
architectural curiosity. The elliptical
nave with galleries is an unusual
8 Baranów
combination, and the columns
sunk into niches hollowed out Sandomierski
in the pillars make a mockery Road map E5. * 1,500. £ 3 km
of the principles of tectonics. (2 miles) from the centre. @
∑ baranow.com.pl
7 Sandomierz Leszczyński Castle, built in

Road map F5. * 24,800. £ @ Baranów Sandomierski for the
n PTTK, Rynek 12 (15 832 26 82). Leszczyński family in 1591–
Underground Tourist Route: ul. 1606, is one of the finest
Oleśnickich 1. Tel 15 832 30 88. Open examples of Mannerist
10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat architecture in Poland. The
& Sun (Oct–Apr: to 5pm). Opatów Gate, defending the old town of castle consists of four wings
∑ sandomierz.pl Sandomierz arranged around a rectangular
arcaded courtyard. The grand
The best view of this small, E Diocesan Museum exterior staircase and the
ancient town is from the River ul. Długosza 9. Tel 15 833 26 70. Open façades, with their elaborate
Vistula. In 1138, Sandomierz 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1:30–4:30pm attics giving the impression of
became the capital of an Sun (Nov–Mar: 9am–3:30pm). & a massive (but in fact delicate)
independent duchy, and from the The museum is in the Gothic curtained wall, are striking. The
14th century until the Partitions house of Jan Długosz (1415–80), square tower in the central
of Poland it was a regional the celebrated chronicler of façade serves a purely
capital. The Underground Poland. It features religious decorative purpose. On account
Tourist Route, a network of paintings and sculptures from of its architectural ornamentation,
underground passages that the Middle Ages to the 19th featuring spheres, rosettes and
runs beneath the town, dates century, including Madonna with strange creatures, the castle is
from the 15th to 17th centuries. the Christ Child and St Catherine thought to have been designed
The main entrance to the old by Lucas Cranach the Elder. by Santi Gucci. The Sulphur
town is Opatów Gate. The Basin Museum on the ground
charming, slightly sloping E Regional Museum floor contains furniture, suits of
Market Square is surrounded Castle: Tel 15 644 57 57/58. armour and other objects from
by elegant houses. In the centre Open 1–3pm Mon, 9am–4pm Tue– the castle’s heyday, as well as
stands the 14th-century town Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun (May–Sep: exhibits relating to the history
hall, with its splendid 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & of sulphur exploitation in the
Renaissance parapet. It houses Sun). 8 (free Mon). Town Hall: Rynek huge quarries nearby.
the Regional Museum. The most 10. Tel 693 378 799. Open 9am–4pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm Sun (May–Sep:
important building in the town E Sulphur Basin Museum
10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat &
is the cathedral, built around ul. Zamkowa 20. Tel 15 811 80 39.
Sun). 8
1360 on the site of an earlier Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar:
Romanesque cathedral and The Regional Museum is split to 4pm; Apr & Oct: to 5pm).
later altered. The 15th-century between the town hall and the 8 (compulsory, every hour). 0
Ruthenian-Byzantine frescoes
in the chancel depict scenes
from the lives of Christ and the
Virgin, and there are also some
beautiful carvings.
The Church of St James
(Kościół św. Jakuba), built in
brick, is an exceptionally fine
late Romanesque aisled basilica
that was begun in 1226. Its
ceramic decoration and
beautiful portal are evidence
that it was built by master
craftsmen from Lombardy. The
remains of 49 Dominican friars
murdered by Tartars in 1260 lie
in the Martyrs’ Chapel. Staircase in the courtyard of Leszczyński Castle in Baranów Sandomierski
Małopolska. Today, only vestiges Museum, and the 16th-

remain, incorporated in the large century synagogue, that
Rococo–Neo-Classical castle has Baroque wall paintings.
that now stands on the site,
surrounded by a neglected park. E Regional Museum
The castle was built for a Poraj ul. Szkolna 8. Tel 41 354 53 13.
family, who were at the height Open 10am–6pm daily (Oct–Mar:
of their power in the times of to 5pm Mon–Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun).
Zawisza, Chancellor and Bishop Closed Mon & Wed in summer.
of Krakow (died c.1382), known
for his sumptuous lifestyle.
Environs
In Raków, 12 km (7 miles)
The Camaldolite church in Rytwiany north of Kurozwęki, is the
Protestant church of the Polish
9 Rytwiany Brethren, founded at the time of
Road map E5. * 950. £ @ the establishment of Raków
Academy in the 1600s.
The main attraction of
Rytwiany is the early Baroque
Camaldolite church that stands
q Szydłów
next to the monastery. It was Road map E5. * 1,100. @ n ul.
built in 1624–5 by the Tęczyński Targowa 3 (41 354 53 13). _ Jousting
family and is considered to be tournament (Jul). ∑ szydlow.pl
one of the finest examples of
Camaldolite architecture in This attractive medieval town is Krakow Gate, the Gothic south gate into the
Europe. In accordance with the reached by crossing a bridge old town of Szydłów
rules of the order, the entrance over a moat and passing through
to the sanctuary leads through one of the old town gates. In
a narrow passageway, with the the 16th century this was a
w Grabki Duże
tiny houses of the monks lying flourishing town, and in 1528 it Road map E5. * 410. @
behind the monastery walls. The even had its own sophisticated
clock in the church tower water supply. By the mid-17th Between 1742 and 1750, the
marked the times for different century, however, it was falling architect Francisco Placidi
activities in the monastery. The into decline. Features of interest built a Rococo palace here
modest appearance of the are the town walls, 2 m (6 ft) for the castellan Stanisław
façade contrasts with the thick and 680 m (2,230 ft) long, Rupniewski. At the time, the
exuberant interior: stuccowork with spiked battlements, and unusual shape of the building
is complemented by colourful the Market Square, dominated aroused suspicions that the
frescoes painted by the prior, by the Church of St Władysław castellan intended it to be for
Venante da Subiaco. The church (Fara św. Władysława), initially in a harem. Rupniewski loved
is hidden deep in the forest in the Gothic style but rebuilt in women, so did nothing to
a vast clearing, putting it, the 17th century. contradict the gossip.
unfortunately, beyond the Also worth a visit are the The nucleus of the “harem”
reach of most tourists. Gothic castle of Kazimierz is a central hall covered with a
The ruins of the 15th-century the Great, with its Regional fanciful roof. This is surrounded
Gothic castle of Wojciech
Jastrzębiec, Archbishop of
Gniezno, which stand on the
edge of the village, are also
worth visiting.
0 Kurozwęki
Road map E5. * 840. @ n ul.
Zamkowa 3 (15 866 74 07). Castle:
Tel 15 866 72 71. Open Tue–Sun.
∑ kurozweki.com
The 14th-century Gothic castle

that once stood in the small
village of Kurozwęki was one of
the earliest stone fortresses in The castle in Kurozwęki, with its severe Neo-Classical façade
medieval Polish chronicler Jan

Długosz. During the Renaissance,
the castle was remodelled for
the Myszkowski family by Santi
Gucci. It was dismantled before
1799, the result being that little
remains today.
Between 1556 and 1586, the
humanistic Calvinist college
was active in Pińczów – just
as the printing house of the
Polish Brethren was to be a
few decades later. A beautiful
Renaissance house decorated
with sgraffito is sometimes
The palace of Stanisław Rupniewski in Grabki Duże, said to be built for a harem identified as the Polish Brethren’s
printing house: it is not, but it still
by four single-storey wings date from the second half merits the visitor’s attention.
that once contained small of the 12th century and may The Chapel of St Anne
apartments. The design of perhaps represent the Piast (Kaplica św. Anny), on the top of
the palace is not dissimilar princes (see p45) who founded the hill, is an unusual Mannerist
to that of a windmill. the church. building. It was founded in 1600
by Zygmunt Myszkowski and
built, it is thought, by Santi Gucci.
e Busko-Zdrój t Pińczów In nearby Mirów, the
Road map E5. * 16,500. @ £ Road map E5. * 11,000. @ Franciscan church and the
n al. Mickiewicza 22 (41 370 10 22). n ul. Piłsudskiego 2a (41 357 17th- century Mannerist-Baroque
_ K. Jamroz Music Festival (Jul). 24 72). _ Days of Ponidzie (Jun). parish church, which has early
∑ busko.com.pl ∑ muzeumpinczow.pl Baroque vaulting and rich
furnishings, are both worth a
Springs with healing properties In the 16th century, the town of visit. In the vestibule of the parish
were discovered here in 1776, Pińczów was an important centre church a marble tombstone of a
but it was not until the of artistic and intellectual life. It is middle-class woman, Anna
beginning of the 19th century dominated by the castle built in Jakubczyńska, who died in 1618,
that they began to be exploited. the 15th century for Cardinal warrants the visitor’s attention.
In 1836 a sanatorium was Zbigniew Oleśnicki. Oleśnicki Also worth seeing is the late
opened and a park laid out. The was a politician and confidant Renaissance synagogue, which
Neo-Classical bath house dates of Władysław II and Kazimierz IV, is the last remaining trace of the
from 1836–8; visitors may as well as being a patron of the Jews who once lived in Pińczów.
sample the waters in the pump
room. The spa itself is valued for
its rare sulphur and salt springs
and for its therapeutic mud.
r Wiślica
Road map E5. * 610. @
This sleepy village may

have been the capital of
the Vistulanians in the 11th
century. The Market Square,
which is planted with trees,
is unexpectedly dominated
by the enormous Gothic
collegiate church, founded
by Kazimierz the Great after
1350. The chancel is decorated
with Ruthenian-Byzantine
frescoes dating from 1397–
1400 which are now barely
visible. The floor is that of an
earlier Romanesque church;
the figures engraved within it The parish and Franciscan church in Mirów, near Pińczów
y Częstochowa
The monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa is the
most famous shrine of the Virgin in Poland and the
country’s greatest place of pilgrimage – for many, its
spiritual capital. The image of the Black Madonna of
Częstochowa, to which miraculous powers are
attributed, is Jasna Góra’s most precious treasure.
Founded in 1382 by Pauline monks who came from
Hungary at the invitation of Władysław, Duke of
Opole (who probably brought the image of the Knights’ Hall
Black Madonna to Częstochowa), the monastery The hall contains a series of late
17th-century paintings depicting major
withstood several sieges, including the legendary events in the monastery’s history.
40-day siege by the Swedes in 1655 (see p50).
Refectory
The ceiling is decorated with rich
frescoes by the 17th-century
painter Karl Dankwart. In 1670,
a wedding reception was held
here for the Polish king Michał
Korybut Wiśniowiecki and his
bride, Eleanor.
KEY
1 Arsenal
2 The 600th Anniversary
Museum has an impressive display
of artifacts made by concentration
Stations of the Cross camp inmates.
The 14 Stations of the Cross 3 Bastion of St Roch (belonging
standing on artificial rocks in the to Morsztynowie)
moat were created by the architect
Stefan Szyller and the sculptor Pius 4 The outdoor altar is where
Weloński in 1900–13. Every day, services are held for the pilgrims.
groups of pilgrims attend a 5 Confessional
religious service here.
. Black Madonna VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The most important icon of the
Catholic faith in Poland, depicting Practical Information
the Virgin with the Christ Child, was Road map D5. * 234,000. n al.
probably painted in 1434 on top of Najświętszej Marii Panny 65 (34
an older Byzantine icon – the 368 22 50); Jasna Góra, Pauline
original Black Madonna, which was Monastery: ul. Kordeckiego 2 (34
damaged by robbers in 1430. 365 38 88). Jasna Góra: Open
5am–9:30pm. Black Madonna of
Częstochowa: (unveiling times)
6am–noon daily (to 1pm Sat &
Sun), 3–9:30pm (May–Sep: from
2pm). Times may vary. Treasury,
Arsenal, 600th Anniversary
Museum: Open 9am–4pm daily
(May–Oct: to 5pm). _ “Gaude
Mater” International Festival of
Religious Music (early May).
∑ czestochowa.pl
Transport
£@
Treasury
Gold and silver vessels,
church vestments,
tapestries and votive
offerings are among
the items on display.
Chapel of the Last Supper

This chapel was designed
by Adolf Szyszko-Bohusz
in the 20th century.
Monastery Gates
The Lubomirski Gate,
the Stanisław August
Gate, the Gate of the . Basilica of the Holy Cross and the
Sorrowful Virgin Mary Nativity of the Virgin Mary
and the Bank (or The present basilica dates from 1692–
Jagiellonian) Gate 1728. The Baroque decoration of the
all lead to the high altar and of the ceiling, the latter
monastery hill. by Karl Dankwart, is rich in detail.
u Eagles’ Nests Trail

The Krakow-Częstochowa upland is a Czestochowa
limestone mountain range formed in the
Jurassic period. Perched on rocky outcrops,
Janów
some of the castles, most of which were built
Potok Złoty
in the Middle Ages and ruined during the
Swedish Deluge of the 1650s (see p50), resemble
eagles’ nests. Ojców National Park, with Pieskowa
Skała Castle, encompasses some of the most beautiful Czestochowa
upland areas. This castle was once the stronghold of
kings, but at the end of the Middle Ages it passed
into the hands of bandits – Piotr Szafraniec and his
son Krzysztof – who lured rich merchants to their
deaths. Today, all is peaceful and the area offers
tourist trails, rock climbing and beautiful scenery.
1 Olsztyn
Every autumn, Wa
rta
thousands of spectators
gather to watch as a
magnificent firework
display and laser show
illuminate the stately sza
ruins of the castle.
em
Czarna Prz
2 Mirów
The castle once
belonged to the
Myszkowski family. It
is perched on a rocky
ridge, turning the
natural lie of the land to Dabrowa
defensive advantage. Górnicza
B łed o ws k i
D es ert
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Tips for Drivers

3 Bobolice
Length of trail: 190 km
Today, jousting
(118 miles).
tournaments and outdoor
Stopping-off points: Many bars
games take place in the
and restaurants are to be found
surroundings of the
along the trail. There is a café and
splendid ruins of the castle
restaurant in Pieskowa Skała
built by Kazimierz the
Castle (closed until Apr 2016).
Great in the 14th century.

4 Ogrodzieniec
In the 16th century
the castle belonged
to the Boner family of
Krakow. With its gate,
towers and galleries,
5 Błędowski Desert
it is one of the most
This miniature desert is 320 sq km (123
picturesque castles
sq miles) of drifting sand and dunes.
on the trail.
Unique in Central Europe, it is slowly
becoming choked with vegetation.
6 Olkusz
The town is well
endowed with
historic buildings.
It owes its
prosperity to
silver and lead
mining.
7 Pieskowa Skała
The well-preserved castle
with its arcaded courtyard
and bastions dominates the
Prądnik valley. It is situated
Pilica on an inaccessible rock
Podzamcze surrounded by spectacular 8 Ojców National Park
scenery. The Prądnik valley has a karst
landscape; there are outcrops of
limestone, a multitude of gorges
and caves with bats. The most
famous rock is the pillar known
Miechów as Hercules’ Club.
Wolbrom
za
s
m
rze
aP
Biał
Klucze
9 Grodzisko
The obelisk with a stone elephant
is an unusual monument. It was
made in 1686 and stands next to
the Church of the Assumption.
Key
0 Imbramowice
Trail
This small village has a late
Other road Baroque Premonstratensian
convent that was built in
Krakow the 18th century.

o Bielsko-Biała
Road map D6. * 174,000. £ @
n Plac Ratuszowy 4 (33 819 00 50).
∑ bielsko.biala.pl
The city was created by joining

the Silesian town of Bielsko and
the Galician town of Biała. It was
once an important centre for
the production of textiles and
wool, as an interesting early
Gate and unloading platform, Birkenau extermination camp 20th-century complex of
buildings testifies.
i Oświęcim life for that of a fellow prisoner, Many streets contain
who survived. Soviet forces miniature versions of old
(Auschwitz) liberated the camp in January Viennese houses. The Castle of
Road map D5. * 40,000. 1945. They found 7,650 sick the Sułkowski princes, built in
£ @ n 33 843 00 91. and dying prisoners when the Middle Ages and altered in
they arrived. the 19th century, is also of
Although the name Oświęcim Above the entrance to interest. The unusual hilltop
means little to foreigners, its Auschwitz are inscribed the Church of St Nicholas (Kościół
German equivalent, Auschwitz, words “Arbeit macht frei” (“Work św. Mikołaja) began as a modest
evokes fear in almost everyone. makes you free”). The camp has 15th-century Gothic church and
It was here that the Nazis been preserved as a memorial, was extensively remodelled in
established their largest and the prison blocks that 1907–10.
concentration and survive have been turned into a Bielsko-Biała is a good starting
extermination camp. Auschwitz museum charting the history of point for excursions into the
is synonymous with death, the camp and of persecution in Beskid Śląski Mountains. The
cruelty, the annihilation of the wartime Poland. In all, between chair lift from the suburbs takes
Jews and the Holocaust. No 900,000 and 1.5 million Jews visitors to the Szyndzielnia peak,
visitor can leave unmoved. and others were murdered in 1,026 m (3,365 ft) up.
The Auschwitz camp, known the extermination camps here.
as Auschwitz I, opened in June The camp is a UNESCO World
1940 when the first Polish Heritage Site. p Żywiec
political prisoners arrived. In Road map D6. * 32,000. @ £
March 1941 a much larger camp E Oświęcim-Brzezinka Museum n ul. Zamkowa 2 (33 861 43 10).
at Birkenau (Brzezinka in Polish), ul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20. Tel 33 ∑ zywiec.pl
Auschwitz II, was started, 3km (2 844 80 99. Open Dec–Feb: 8am–3pm;
miles) from Oświęcim. Auschwitz Mar & Nov: 8am–4pm; Apr & Oct: The town of Żywiec is
III, a labour camp, was built 8am–5pm; May & Sep: 8am–6pm; associated with one of the best
nearby in Monowice in 1943. Jun–Aug: 8am–7pm. 8 9 Polish brands of beer, which is
The Nazis brought in people, ∑ auschwitz.org.pl brewed locally. It is also a good
overwhelmingly Jews, from all
over Europe. The gas chambers,
which had the capacity to kill
thousands daily, started working
ceaselessly in 1942. Trains drew
up to the ramp where people
would be herded out for
selection for extermination (the
fate of the majority), forced
labour or medical experiments.
Those selected for extermin-
ation would be gassed and their
bodies incinerated in one of the
four crematoria. Apart from
Jews, a number of Poles, Soviet
prisoners of war, gypsies and
homosexuals died here too.
For the Poles, Auschwitz is a
particular symbol of their own
suffering. It was here that St
Maksymilian Kolbe died from
starvation after volunteering his Lake Żywiecki, a man-made reservoir on the River Sola
a Wadowice
Road map D6. * 19,400. £ @
n ul. Koscielna 4 (33 873 23 65).
∑ it.wadowice.pl
Karol Wojtyła, who became Pope

John Paul II in 1978, was born in
Wadowice in 1920. His childhood
home is now the Museum of
the Holy Father John Paul II,
with objects relating to his early Herod’s Palace, one of the stations
life. He was christened in the of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
late Baroque Church of the
Presentation of the Virgin Mary Mikołaj Zebrzydowski, the
(Kościół Ofiarowania NMP), near ruler of Krakow and an ardent
the Market Square. The church, Catholic, whose plan it was
built in 1791–8, replaces an to replicate the layout
Arcaded courtyard of the Renaissance early Gothic church, of which of Jerusalem.
castle in Żywiec only the chancel remains. The The calvary (built 1605–32)
tower, with Baroque cupola, was consists of 40 chapels, set on
starting point for excursions built by Tomasz Pryliński in the the surrounding hills. The most
into the Beskid Żywiecki late 19th century. distinctive are the work of the
Mountains. Lake Żywiecki, Flemish architect and goldsmith
with its water-sports facilities, E Museum of the Holy Father Paul Baudarth. Some have
is another tourist attraction. This John Paul II unusual shapes: the House of
is also a town of thriving folk ul. Kościelna 7. Tel 33 823 26 62. Open the Virgin Mary takes the form
traditions; a particular high 8:30am–4:30pm daily (May–Sep: to of the Mystic Rose, and the
point is Corpus Christi, when 5:30pm). 7 ∑ domjp2.pl House of Caiaphas that of an
women dressed in traditional ellipsis. Their façades have
costumes take part in a festive Dutch ornamentation. The large
procession. Local monuments s Kalwaria Baroque monastery church
include the Market Square, dates from 1702; the monastic
surrounded by old houses, the
Zebrzydowska buildings were constructed by
19th-century town hall, and the Road map D6. * 4,400. £ Baudarth and Giovanni Maria
Church of the Nativity of the @ n 33 876 63 04. 8 0 Bernadoni in 1603–67.
Virgin Mary (Kościół Narodzenia ∑ kalwaria.eu The calvary attracts thousands
Najświętszej Marii Panny), built of pilgrims every year. Passion
in 1582–3. Not far from the Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is the plays are performed here
Market Square is the Gothic oldest calvary in Poland and during Holy Week, and the
Church of the Holy Cross one of the most unusual. It was Feast of Assumption is
(Kościół św. Krzyża). commissioned in 1600 by celebrated in August.
The most important buildings
in the town are the Renaissance
castle and the 19th-century
palace, started in the 16th
century for Mikołaj Komorowski.
In the mid-17th century, Jan
Kazimierz, King of Poland, was
the owner of Żywiec. When he
abdicated in 1668, he lived here
briefly before leaving Poland.
In the early 19th century, the
town became the property of
the Habsburgs, who built a
palace next to the castle. The
last of the Habsburgs were
strongly connected with Poland
through marriage into the
Polish aristocracy.
E Town Museum
ul. Zamkowa 5. Tel 33 861 21 24.
Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ muzeum-zywiec.pl Bernardine church in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
nearby. In 1525 Zygmunt I

brought “in a wooden trunk a
great bear from Lithuania”. The
bear hunt ended unhappily.
Confronted by the angry animal,
the pregnant Queen Bona
Sworza turned and fled, falling
from her horse and suffering
a miscarriage.
At the castle in 1551, Queen
Bona Sworza’s son, Zygmunt
August, sat at the deathbed of
his sweetheart wife, Barbara
Radziwiłłówna. Their marriage
had caused a moral and political
scandal, and Queen Bona was
The underground Chapel of St Kinga in the salt mine at Wieliczka
unjustly suspected of poisoning
d Wieliczka Salt Mine her daughter-in-law.
ul. Daniłowicza 10. Tel 12 278 73 02. Today, the forest is much
Road map D5. * 19,000. £ @ n Open Apr–Oct: 7:30am–7:30pm; Nov– smaller than it was in the time
ul. Dembowskiego 2a (12 288 00 52). Mar: 8am–5pm. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, of the Jagiellonians. It is still,
1 Nov, 24–26 Dec. & 8 9 0 = however, a sizeable nature
∑ kopalnia.pl
Wieliczka is famous for its reserve with plenty of secluded
ancient salt mine, which was areas, and bison are raised there.
opened 700 years ago and is still
being exploited today. Unique in
f Niepołomice
the world, it has been listed by Road map E5. * 8,500. £ @ g Zalipie
UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. ∑ niepolomice.eu Road map E5. * 710. @ £ 6 km
Only 2 km (1½ miles) of the (4 miles) from the village.
network of underground In the 14th century, the royal
galleries and chambers are castle at Niepołomice was the Zalipie has a unique folk art
open to the public. They reach hunting base of Kazimierz the tradition: cottages, barns,
a depth of 135 m (442 ft) and Great. Between 1550 and 1571 wells and fences are painted
have a stable temperature of it was converted into a with colourful floral, animal,
13–14° C (55–57° F). The two- Renaissance palace by Zygmunt geometric and other motifs.
hour visit takes in ancient August. The entrance gate, Domestic interiors and
underground chambers, saline dating from 1552, was once furnishings are also decorated.
lakes, wooden mining machines decorated with a Jagiellonian The painters are predominantly
and underground buildings. eagle; the plaque, with the Latin the women of the village. Every
The most impressive of these is inscription “May the King Win year in June, a competition
the Chapel of St Kinga, with and Live”, hints at its former called the Painted Cottage is
altarpieces, chandeliers and splendour. The monarchs loved organized and exhibitions of
sculptures made of salt. hunting in the game park paintings are held.
Additional figures carved in salt,
the oldest dating from the 17th
century, can be seen in other
chambers. The Staszic Chamber
has the highest ceiling, at 36 m
(115 ft). At the end of the
German occupation, the Nazis
tried to establish an aircraft
factory in the mines. There is
also an underground
sanatorium where respiratory
diseases are treated.
The Salt Mine Castle at Ulica
Zamkowa 8 is worth a visit, too.
From the 13th century right up
until 1945 it was a base for the
management of the salt mine.
Today it houses a museum
with – among other things –
a splendid collection of
antique salt mills. Painted cottage in Zalipie
living quarters but also the

castle’s kitchen, pantry and
wine cellar are included in
the exhibition.
E Museum of
Period Interiors
Tel 14 665 80 35. Open Mar–Dec:
9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat
& Sun. Closed Jan, Feb. & 8
∑ muzeum.tarnow.pl
k Nowy Wiśnicz
Road map E6. * 1,900. @
The enormous castle and the

Monastery of the Discalced
The Gothic-Renaissance town hall in Tarnów Carmelites overlook this town
from the hills above. The parish
h Tarnów Obertyn and Starodub. church stands in the Market
Road map E5. * 110,000. @ Tarnowski, a friend of the poet Square below. Each of these
£ n Rynek 7 (14 688 90 90). Jan Kochanowski, was known early Baroque buildings was
∑ it.tarnow.pl as a charismatic and witty raised by Stanisław Lubomirski,
commander as well as a Palatine of Krakow, in the 17th
Tarnów received its municipal renowned author of century. This rich and wise
charter in 1330; the medieval military theory. magnate earned renown in the
layout of the old town is Battles of Chocim against the
perfectly preserved and many E Diocesan Museum Turks, and grew so strong that
ancient houses are still standing. pl. Katedralny 6. Tel 14 621 99 93. he “felt more powerful than the
Those around the arcaded Open 10am–3pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2pm king”. Twice the emperor
Market Square are among the Sun. ∑ muzeum.diecezja.tarnow.pl bestowed a dukedom on him.
finest. The town hall, in the The castle, which previously
centre, dates from the 15th belonged to the Kmita family,
century and was remodelled was extended by Lubomirski
in the second half of the 16th after 1615. It has corner towers,
century by Giovanni Maria an arcaded courtyard and an
Padovano. The Renaissance unusual entrance gate, framed
attics and elegant portal date by enormous volutes. Now a
from that time. prison, the monastery is not
The late Gothic Cathedral open to visitors. The façade
of the Nativity of the Virgin of the parish church is one of
Mary (Katedra Narodzenia the most unusual pieces of
NMP) was built in 1400 and architecture in Poland, combin-
has been extended many times. ing Baroque elements in a
It is the grandest building in The castle in Dębno, which houses a Mannerist style.
Tarnów, its Gothic portal Museum of Period Interiors
decorated with sophisticated
iconography. Its Diocesan j Dębno near
Museum is worth a visit. Brzeska
The monuments, stalls,
epitaphs and tombstones Road map E6. * 1,400. @
within are mostly those of the
Tarnowski family, who at one This small, well-proportioned
time owned the town. The large castle surrounded by a moat
tombs belonging to Grand was built in 1470–80 for the
Hetman Jan Tarnowski and his castellan and royal chancellor
son Jan Krzysztof were fashioned Jakub Dębiński. It survives in an
by Giovanni Maria Padovano excellent state of preservation.
between 1561 and 1570. The Museum of Period
The portraits of the deceased Interiors installed in the castle
are remarkable. The marble bas- re-creates the atmosphere of
reliefs depict Jan Tarnowski’s noble houses of the 15th to Lubomirski Castle, towering above the town
victories in battle at Orsza, 18th centuries. Not only the of Nowy Wiśnicz
z Zakopane
Road map D6. * 27,000. £ @ n
ul. Kościuszki 17 (18 201 22 11). _
Autumn in the Tatras; International
Festival of Mountain Folklore (end
Aug). ∑ zakopane.pl
For over 100 years, the Polish

people have regarded
Zakopane as their country’s
winter capital, on a par with Zakopane, cable-car line from Kuźnice
alpine resorts as an upmarket to Kasprowy Wierch
winter sports and leisure centre.
Old cottages along the main street of Many tourists also appreciate Mt Gubałówka. Later in the
Chochołów Zakopane in the summer. While day, many tourists gather in
some go hiking in the Krupówki, the town’s central
l Chochołów mountains, most are content to pedestrianized area, which is
Road map D6. * 1,100. @ admire the scenery from the lined with cafés, restaurants,
windows of their cable cars exclusive souvenir shops and
Along the main street of the gliding to the summit of Mt art galleries.
16th-century village stand Kasprowy Wierch or from the Walking down Krupówki it is
traditional wooden cottages, funicular railway ascending impossible to resist the market
the best examples of highland near the funicular railway station.
architecture in the whole Here you can buy leather kierpce
Podhale region. One of the (traditional moccasins), woollen
cottages, at No. 75, is open to pullovers, wooden ciupagi (sticks
the public. It dates from 1889 with decorative axe-like handles),
and has “white” and “black” and bryndza and oscypek
rooms, a vestibule and a cellar. (regional cheeses made from
It also houses the Museum of sheep’s milk).
the Chochołów Insurrection, Villa Atma, the wooden
which took place in 1846 house where the composer
against Austrian rule. Karol Szymanowski (see p32)
Chochołów has a curious local lived from 1930 to 1936, is now
custom that involves cleaning a museum dedicated to this
the walls of the building once a eulogist of the Tatra Mountains.
year until they are white. It is worth a visit since it is in
typical Zakopane style.
E Museum of the Chochołów In 1992, the Polish and
Insurrection Slovakian national parks in the
Chochołów 75. Open 10am–2pm Tatra Mountains were jointly
Wed–Sun. 8 Entrance to the Villa Koliba Museum designated a biosphere
Panorama from Mount Mt Świnica

Mt Jagnięcy Szczyt Mt Lodowy 2,301 m (7,549 ft)
Gubałówka
2,231 m (7,319 ft) 2,630 m (8,628 ft)
The finest panorama of the Tatra
Mountains from the northern, Mt Kościelec
Polish side of the range is from 2,155 m (7,070 ft)
Mt Gubałówka or Głodówka pod
Bukowiną. The Tatras, the highest
mountains in Central Europe,
with alpine landscapes, lie
within Polish and Slovak national
parks. The main attractions for
tourists include the excursion to
the Lake Morskie Oko (Eye of
the Sea) and the ascent by cable
car to the summit of Mount
Kasprowy Wierch. In summer,
hikers can follow the many
designated trails. In winter, the
mountains offer favourable
conditions for skiing.
reserve by UNESCO. The Tatra

National Park can be accessed
from Zakopane.
P Villa Atma
ul. Kasprusie 19. Tel 18 202 00 40.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (summer
2–6pm Fri). & (free Sun).
x Dębno
Podhalańskie
Road map E6. * 790. @
The Convent of the Order of St Clare in Stary Sącz
The picturesque larch timber
Parish Church of St Michael the c Dunajec Raft of the Order of St Clare
Archangel (Kościół parafialny św. (Klasztor Sióstr Klarysek),
Michała Archanioła), dating to
Ride founded in 1208 by the Blessed
the middle of the 15th century, See pp172–3. Kinga. The Gothic church was
is one of the most highly consecrated in 1280 and the
regarded examples of wooden vaulting dates from the 16th
Gothic architecture in Europe.
v Stary Sącz century. Its altars, with stucco-
The ceiling, walls and furnishings Road map E6. * 8,800. £ @ work ornamentation made by
are covered with colourful geo- n ul. Rynek 5 (18 446 18 58). Baldassare Fontana in 1696–9,
metric, figural and floral motifs _ Early Music Festival (Jun–Jul). and a pulpit from 1671 showing
painted at the end of the 1500s. ∑ sacz.pl a depiction of the Tree of Jesse,
A magnificent domed tower complement the modern
rises over the church. The church This charming Galician town decoration of the church.
is still used for religious services. has a cobbled Market Square
surrounded by small Environs
houses that in Nowy Sącz is situated 8 km
summer are (5 miles) northeast of Stary
bedecked with Sącz. In the large Market
flowers. Were it not Square stands the Neo-
for the presence of Baroque town hall of 1895–7.
cars, tourists and The town’s major buildings
modern shops, one are the old collegiate church,
might imagine that now the parish Church of St
time had stood still Marguerite (Kościół parafialny
here. The town’s św. Małgorzaty), founded by
finest buildings Zbigniew Oleśnicki in 1466,
Wooden Gothic church in Dębno Podhalańskie include the Convent and a fine synagogue.
Mt Giewont
Mt Kasprowy Wierch Little Giewont Starorobociarski Wierch
1,894 m
Dolina 1,987 m (6,519 ft) Dtugi Giewont 1,728 m (5,670 ft)
(6,214 ft) 2,176 m (7,139 ft)
Białego
1,867 m Burbot
Mt Sarnia Skała Kominiarski Wierch
(6,125 ft) Mt Małołączniak Valley
1,372 m 1,929 m (6,328 ft)
(4,500 ft) 2,096 m (6,876 ft)
c Dunajec Raft Ride 1 Czorsztyn Castle

The castle was built
in 1330 for the
The Pieniny Mountains form a small range Hungarian Berzevicy
famous for its spectacular landscapes cut family. It now houses
through by the Dunajec valley. The raft ride the Museum of
on the river that flows through the limestone the Spisz Region. Nowy
mountain gorges is one of the best-known tourist Targ
attractions in Poland. At first the rafts move with
deceptive calm, but as they approach the gorge behind Czorsztyn
the cloister ruins the water becomes rougher as the river
Lake
twists and winds. This lasts for Czorsztyńskie
about 8 km (5 miles), after which
the water once again flows more
slowly. The exhilarating ride ends Łapsze
in Szczawnica, a well-known
health resort. Lake
Sromowskie
0 km 1
0 miles 1 Sromowce
3 Dunajec Dam Wyżne
Despite protests, the
2 Niedzica Castle building of this dam
The castle once guarded Key
went ahead. On the day
the Polish border with Raft ride route of its opening in 1997, it
Hungary. Its ruins perch saved the Dunajec valley
Tour route
on a precipitous outcrop from a disastrous flood.
of rock. Other road
b Krynica style, and owned by singer Jan n Biecz

Road map E6. * 11,000. £ @ Kiepura (1902–66). The New Road map E6. * 4,500.
n ul. Zdrojowa 4/2 (18 472 55 77). Sanatorium near the pedestrian £ @ City bus from Gorlice.
_ concerts by spa orchestras (all year promenade (Deptak) is also _ Pogórze Folklore Days.
round). ∑ krynica.pl worth a visit. Completed in
1939, it retains its original In the 16th century this small
Well-equipped with sanatoria furnishings and decor. The Great town was one of the most
and pump rooms, Krynica is one Pump Room nearby is always important centres of cloth
of the largest health resorts in very popular with visitors. manufacture in Poland. It is
Poland. Fashionable and The town is surrounded by dominated by the town hall
luxurious pre-war boarding tree-covered mountains. Mt tower, built in 1569–81, and the
houses stand next to old Jaworzyna, at 1,114 m (3,654 ft) Parish Church of Corpus Christi
wooden villas. The best known the highest peak in the area, can (Kościół farny Bożego Ciała).
is “Patria”, built by Bohdan be reached by cable car, depart- The church, one of the most
Pniewski in the Art Nouveau ing from Czarny Potok. In winter, magnificent late Gothic churches
the mountain turns into a skier’s in all of Małopolska, was built at
paradise – the local ski trails are the turn of the 15th century in a
the longest in Poland. Remote style that seeks to reconcile the
areas of the mountains are Gothic tradition with the new
inhabited by lynxes, wolves canons of the Renaissance. The
and bears, so caution should first pharmacy in the Carpathian
be exercised away from the foothills was located in the
established trails. Renaissance house at Ulica
The work of amateur painter Węgierska 2, dating from 1523;
Nikifor (d. 1968) is displayed in it now houses a division of the
the “Romanówka” villa, now the Regional Museum.
Nikifor Museum.
E Regional Museum
E Nikifor Museum ul. Kromera 3. Tel 13 447 10 93.
Bulwary Dietla 19. Tel 18 471 53 03. Open 8am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm
One of Nikifor’s paintings on view Open 10am–1pm & 2–5pm Tue–Sat, Sat & Sun (Oct–Apr: 8am–3pm Tue–
at the Nikifor Museum 10am–3pm Sun. Closed pub hols. & Sat, 9am–2pm Sun).

8 Szczawnica 7 Ostra Skała

This well-known health resort After Ostra Skała (Sharp Rock) Tips for Drivers
is mainly a centre for the the River Dunajec turns sharply
Raft ride: 2.25–2.75 hours.
treatment of respiratory as it flows through the
Length: 18 km (11 miles) to
diseases. It is also the narrowest part of the gorge.
Szczawnica; 23 km (14 miles) to
disembarkation point for the Krósicienko. Tel 18 262 97 21 or
Dunajec river raft ride. 262 97 93.Starting point:
Sromowce Wyżne–Kąty. Apr–
Stary Sącz Nov: daily. & ∑ flisacy.com.pl
Krościenko
on the Dunajec
6 Trzy Korony
Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) is the
T h ree C rown s most beautiful massif in the Pieniny
range. In 1287, the Blessed Kinga
took refuge from the Tartars in the
Du Castle of the order of St Clare, whose
na
jec
Sromowce ruins stand on one peak.
Średnie Niżne
5 Cerveny Kláštor
The ruins of the Red
4 Kąty Monastery can be seen on the
Departure point for the raft ride. Slovak side of the Dunajec.
was the setting for Revenge

(1834), the most popular
comedy by the 19th-century
writer Count Aleksander Fredro
(see p31), the plot of which
involves a dispute over the
hole in the wall dividing the
courtyard of the castle.
In the geological park not
far from the castle stands a
group of sandstone and shale
structures known as Prządki
(The Spinners), which have
The Parish Church of Corpus Christi in Biecz unusual, sometimes quite
startling shapes.
Environs Oświęcim Chapel in the Gothic Iwonicz Zdrój and Rymanów,
In the village of Harklowa there Franciscan church. Completed 15 km (9 miles) east of Krosno,
is a late Gothic wooden church in 1647, the chapel is decorated are very popular health resorts.
dating from the turn of the with exquisite stuccowork by At Dukla, there is the Baroque
15th century. Giovanni Battista Falconi. It Mniszcha Palace, which today
contains the tombs of the half- houses a historical museum,
siblings Anna and Stanisław, and an 18th-century Bernardine
m Krosno whose love ended in tragedy. church, which features the
Road map F6. * 47,000. £ @ n The Market Square is surrounded charming Rococo tomb of
ul. Rynek 5 (13 432 77 07). _ Krosno by old arcaded houses, the most Maria Amalia Brühla Mniszkowa,
Fair (Jun); Krosno Music Autumn (Oct). interesting of which is No. 7, with with its peaceful effigy.
its Renaissance doorway. In Bóbrka, 12 km (7 miles)
Krosno was once the centre of south of Krosno, an industrial
the Polish oil industry, but there Environs skansen has been created in
is more to the town than its In Odrzykoń, 10 km (6 miles) what is certainly one of the
industrial past. The finest north of Krosno, stand the ruins oldest oil wells in the world,
historical monument is the of Kamieniec Castle. Kamieniec established in 1854.
, Bieszczady Mountains Tour

The Bieszczady Mountains, together with the neighbouring
Beskid Niski, are the wildest in Poland. Tourists return with
blood-curdling tales of encounters with bears and wolves,
or the discovery of a skeleton in the forest undergrowth.
Needless to say, these stories are often exaggerated. Before
World War II, the region was densely populated by Ukrainians 7 Komańcza
and ethnic groups known as the Boyks and the Lemks. After Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński,
the war, because of fighting and resettlements, it became Primate of Poland, was sent
into exile to this village,
deserted, and farming had largely disappeared from the deserted after World War II. Sanok
region by the 1970s. Pastures and burned-out villages He was interned by the
became overgrown as the forest encroached and wild Communist authorities in
animals returned to the mountains. 1955–6.
6 Połonina Wetlińska
Known as “połoniny”, these
elongated ranges with their
picturesque alpine meadows above
forest level are a characteristic feature
of the Bieszczady Mountains. The
most interesting, 1,250 m (4,100 ft)
ka
up, are Caryńska and Wetlińska.
naw
Tar
Tylawa
5 Bieszczady National Park

The highest and wildest part
of the mountains falls within
Bieszczady National Park, which
covers an area of 2,700 sq km
(1,042 sq miles). In summer, many
Osta
tourists walk the hiking trails. The

wa
main tourist base is in the small

village of Ustrzyki Górne.
Bieszczady Mountain Animals

The lynx, emblem of Bieszczady National Park, is not the
only feline to make its home in these mountains. Wildcats
also live here. They are rarely seen because they are very
shy, concealing themselves in the forest undergrowth.
Carpathian deer, with a population of 5,000, are more often
encountered. Roe deer are also abundant and relatively
tame. Wolves, a protected species numbering about 100
here, are more cautious. Bison, kings of the Polish forest,
number up to 120, and
brown bear may also be
seen. The Bieszczady
Mountains are also
popular with
ornithologists for the
many species of birds of 4 Równia
prey: eagles, including The most beautiful Orthodox churches
the golden eagle, falcon in the Bieszczady Mountains are
A wild mountain wolf and hawk. vestiges of the numerous villages of
the Boyks and the Lemks.

Tips for Drivers

Tour length: 106 km (66 miles)
Stopping-off points:
1 Zagórz
Zagórz, dominated by the Restaurants, boarding houses and
ruins of the 18th-century inns can be found in Polańczyk,
Baroque fortified Church of Lesko, Wetlin, Ustrzyki Dolne and
Discalced Carmelites, is the Ustrzyki Górne. In the summer
starting point of hiking season, bars also open.
trails into the Bieszczady
Mountains.
2 Lesko
This charming town has
many fine buildings,
including a castle and a
16th-century parish
church. The Baroque
synagogue houses a
museum, and
Krościenko the Jewish cemetery
Sa n is also of interest.
•
Ustrzyki
Lake
Dolne
Myczkowskie
Polańczyk •
• Baligród Lake Soliński
Lutowiska
•
3 Solina
Sa
n The highest dam in Poland –
82 m (269 ft) high and 664 m
li n a
Cisna • (2,178 ft) long – was built at

Wet
Solina. The reservoir that was

created is ideal for sailing.
The dam is surrounded by
J magnificent forests with
nature reserves.
saty
W o ło
Bieszczadzki
National •
Ustrzyki Górne
Park
•
Wołosate
0 kilometres 5
Key 0 miles 5
Tour route
Other road

destroyed by fire in 1852, on the and the banks of the River San,
eve of the marriage of a later goes back to prehistoric times.
owner, Duke Leon Sapieha. The In the Middle Ages it was a
castle is open to visitors; the regional capital and lay on a
residential section contains a busy trade route. The object of
hotel and restaurant. dispute between Poland and
Ruthenia, it became part of
Environs Poland in 1340, later passing
In Krzywcza, 10 km (6 miles) west into Austrian control.
of Krasiczyn, stand the ruins of During World War I, the
the castle of the Kącki family. strongly fortified city successfully
About 12 km (7 miles) south of held out against the besieging
Krasiczyn, in Posada Rybotycka, Russian army. The fortifications
is the only stone fortified Uniate from that time survive. From
church in Poland. In Kalwaria 1939 to 1941 the River San,
Pacławicka, the 18th-century which flows through the city,
Franciscan monastery has about constituted a border between
a dozen chapels marking the territory held by the Soviet
The Divine Tower, one of four towers Stations of the Cross. Passion Union and Germany.
in Krasiczyn Castle plays are performed here on The city’s Catholic and
Good Friday and many Orthodox churches, together
. Krasiczyn Castle processions and plays are with its synagogues, are
Road map F6. * 440. @ Castle: organized during the year for evidence of its multicultural
Tel 16 671 83 12. Open Nov–Mar (call different church festivities. history. Today, a Ukrainian
in advance). & 8 compulsory. 0 minority lives alongside the
- ∑ krasiczyn.com.pl city’s Polish population.
The cathedral, remodelled in
Krasiczyn Castle is one of the 1718–24, is predominantly in
most magnificent castles in the the Baroque style; of its earlier
old Ruthenian territories of the Gothic form only the chancel
Polish crown. Building began in remains. Notable features of
1592 on the site of an earlier the interior include the
castle by Stanisław Krasicki, Renaissance tomb of Bishop
castellan of Przewór. It was Jan Dziaduski, by Giovanni
continued by his son Marcin The funeral of the Virgin enacted in a Maria Padovano, and the late
and completed in 1608. The passion play in Kalwaria Pacławicka Gothic alabaster figure of the
architect was Galeazzo Appiani. Virgin from Jacków. Near the
The castle takes the form of cathedral are the Baroque
an arcaded courtyard, with a tall / Przemyśl Church of the Discalced
clock tower over the gate and Road map F6. * 67,000. £ @ Carmelites and the former
four stout cylindrical towers at n ul. Grodzka 1 (16 675 21 63). Jesuit church, now Uniate,
the corners. The Divine Tower _ Canoe rally (Apr, May); Gitariada dating from 1627–48. The castle,
contains a chapel. The Papal International Festival (Jul). founded by Kazimierz the Great
Tower is crowned by a dome ∑ przemysl.pl in the 1340s, stands on a hill
and decorated with a parapet above the city. The top of its
symbolizing the papal tiara. The history of Przemyśl, tower offers a panorama of the
The Royal Tower has a crown- picturesquely laid out on a hill city and the San valley.
shaped dome, and the Tower
of the Gentry is topped with
sword pommels.
The Baroque sgraffito on the
walls is striking. Mythological
scenes are depicted on the
upper tier; the central tier is
filled with portraits of the kings
of Poland from the 14th-century
Jagiellonian monarchs to Jan III
Sobieski, King of Poland at the
time, as well as portraits of
nobles. In the lowest tier are
medallions with the busts of
Roman patricians. Little of the
original decoration of the
interior survives, as it was Przemyśl, on the banks of the River San
£ Łańcut
See pp178–9.
$ Rzeszów
Road map F5. * 184,000. £ @
k n ul. Rynek 26 (17 875 47 74).
∑ rzeszow.pl
The dominant building in this

town is the Gothic Church of
Saints Stanisław and Adalberg
(Kościół św. Stanisława i
Wojciecha), dating from the
15th century and with a later
Baroque interior. The former
Piarist Church of the Holy
Orsetti House, a palace in the Renaissance style, in Jarosław Cross (Kościół św. Krzyża),
extended in 1702–07 by
! Jarosław basilica, which was built in Tylman van Gameren, and
Road map F5. * 39,000. £ @
1618–28. Its interior decoration the Baroque monastery and
Jarosław Museum in the Orsetti and the furnishings, such as the Bernardine church of 1624–9
House: Tel 16 621 54 37. Open oak stalls, pulpit and high altar, are also worth a visit. The latter
10am–2pm Wed–Sun (Jul & Aug: are mostly the work of the contains the unfinished
9am–5pm Wed–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & monks themselves. The basilica mausoleum of the Ligęz family,
Sun). & (free on Sun). _ Early Music was established by Łukasz where there are eight alabaster
Festival (Aug). ∑ jaroslaw.pl Opaliński, who earned renown statues carved by Sebastian
through his defeat of the Sala around 1630.
The city of Jarosław owes its lawless magnate Stanisław The remains of the old castle
wealth to its location on the Stadnicki in mortal combat. of the Ligęz family can still be
River San and the trade route The west end of the nave is seen. It later passed into the
linking the east with western filled with the complex organ, ownership of the Lubomirskis,
Europe. In the 16th and 17th completed in 1693 and said to who surrounded it with
centuries, the largest fairs in be the finest in Poland. The bastions in the 17th century.
Poland were held here. When central theme of the elaborate The Market Square, with an
Władysław IV attended a fair in Baroque casing is Hercules’ fight eclectic town hall remodelled
Jarosław, he mingled with an with the Hydra, the nine-headed in 1895–8, is another
international crowd and monster of Greek mythology. interesting feature.
conversed with merchants Not only is this a symbol of the Highlights of the Muzeum
from as far away as Italy and age-old struggle of virtue Miasta Rzeszowa include
Persia. The Orsetti House, against vice but also of Polish the gallery of 18th- to
built in the style of an Italian victory over the Turks, who were 20th-century Polish painting
Renaissance palazzo, testifies threatening Europe at the time. and the collection of glass,
to the wealth of the city’s The Jewish cemetery in china and faïence.
merchants. Built in the 16th Leżajsk is a place of pilgrimage
century and extended in 1646, for Jews from all over the E Muzeum Miasta Rzeszowa
it is crowned with a Mannerist world, who come to visit the ul. 3 Maja 19. Tel 17 853 52 78.
parapet. The town hall, with tomb of Elimelech, the great Open 9am–3:30pm Tue–Thu, Sun;
coats of arms on the corner 18th-century Orthodox rabbi. 10am–5:30pm Fri. & (free Sun). 8
towers, stands in the centre of
the broad Market Square.
@ Leżajsk
Road map F5. * 14,500. £ @
n ul. Rynek 1a (17 787 70 67).
_ Organ recitals in the basilica
(Jun–Aug: 7pm; booking required).
The major attractions of Leżajsk

are its Bernardine basilica and
monastery, built by the architect
Antonio Pellacini, and the organ
recitals that take place in the Fair in Leżajsk, a centre of folk pottery
£ Łańcut
The town of Łańcut was purchased by Stanisław
Lubomirski in 1629. Securing the services of the architect
Maciej Trapola and the stuccoist Giovanni Battista Falconi,
this powerful magnate went about building a fortified
residence in the town. It was completed in 1641. After
1775 the palace, by then owned by Izabella Lubomirska,
was extended and the interiors remodelled. The Neo-
Classical Ballroom and the Great Dining Room were
created during this period, and the magnificent gardens
with their many pavilions laid out. In the 19th century, . Column Room
The statue in this room is that of the
ownership of the palace passed to the Potocki family. young Henryk Lubomirski, carved by
From 1889 to 1914, the penultimate owners, Roman and Antonio Canova in around 1787.
Elżbieta Potocki, modernized the residence. The palace,
now a museum, attracts numerous visitors.
Mirror Room
The walls are lined with Rococo
panelling brought back to Łańcut by
Izabella Lubomirska – probably from
one of her visits to France.
KEY
Carriage 1 Library
The largest collection of carriages in Poland is displayed 2 Corner tower known as the
in the coach house. It comprises 120 different types of Hen’s Foot
coaches, carriages and other horse-drawn vehicles.
MAŁOPOLSKALESSER POLAND 179
Road map F5. * 17,000. Palace:
Tel 17 225 20 08. Open Feb–Nov:
noon–3:30pm Mon, 9am–4pm
Tue–Sun (to 5pm Sun) (Jun–Sep:
extended hours – see website for
details). Closed Easter, 3 May, 2
wks in May, Corpus Christi, 1, 6,
11 Nov. & ^ = - 0 8
∑ zamek-lancut.pl
Transport
@£
. Theatre
The small court theatre was built around 1800. Its present
appearance is the result of remodelling carried out by the
eminent Viennese workshop of Fellner & Helmer. Sculpture Gallery
Many pieces, mostly
19th-century, make
up the collection
on display;
among
them is
this statue
of Psyche
carried by
Zephyrs, a copy
of a piece by
John Gibson.
The main entrance
Neo-Rococo Clock
This typically French
Neo-Rococo gilt clock
is mounted in the
mirror that hangs over . Ballroom
the fireplace in the The Neo-Classical ballroom was designed
Billiard Room. by Christian Piotr Aigner in 1800. The
stuccowork is by Fryderyk Baumann.
Façade
The palace façades are
fundamentally Baroque.
The rustication of the
lower storey, however,
is typical of French
Renaissance style – part of
the remodelling that the
palace underwent at the
end of the 19th century.
SILESIA
Silesia’s great wealth of architectural monuments, its
eventful history and its beautiful and varied landscape
distinguish it from other regions of Poland. The region’s
well-preserved historic towns and the many hiking trails
in the picturesque Sudeten Mountains make it an area
that invites long exploration.
The stormy history of Silesia (Śląsk) and the language was German, many areas,
great variety of cultural influences that especially the Opole region and Upper
have flourished here have given this region Silesia, were inhabited by an influential
a rich heritage. It belonged initially to the Polish minority. After World War I, as a result
Bohemian crown and passed into Polish of the Silesian Uprisings of 1919–21, the
control around 990. When Poland split eastern part of Upper Silesia, together
into principalities, Silesia began to gain with Katowice, was included within Polish
independence. Divided into smaller borders. After 1945, nearly all of historical
independent duchies, it returned to Silesia joined Poland, and its German
Bohemian rule in the 14th century. After population was deported. Poles who had
1526, together with other Bohemian been resettled from Poland’s eastern
territories, it became part of the Habsburg provinces (which had been annexed by
Empire. During the Reformation, many of the Soviet Union) took their place.
its inhabitants were converted to Silesia is an enchanting region, not
Lutheranism. The Thirty Years’ War (1618– only for the breathtaking beauty of its
48) inflicted devastation on Silesia, mountain landscapes but also for its
bringing in its wake the repression of outstanding architecture. The medieval
Protestantism. While Jesuits and Cistercians castles built to defend ancient
erected magnificent Baroque monasteries borderlands, the grand Renaissance
at that time, under the terms of the Peace manor houses and impressive Baroque
of Westphalia of 1648, Protestants were residences, the great Gothic churches
limited to building the three “peace and stately monasteries – all these
churches”. The Habsburgs lost Silesia provide ample attractions and a
to Prussia in 1742. Although the main historic atmosphere.
A hint of spring: melting snow in the Karkonosze Mountains

The Kamienczyk waterfall, in the Karkonosze National Park
Exploring Silesia
The most attractive part of the region is Lower
Silesia. A good starting point for exploration is
Wrocław, the provincial capital and a city full Gor zow Wlkp.
of historic buildings as well as interesting Ode

r ( O d ra ) Sulechów
Krosno
20th-century architecture. From here, the Odrzańskie
Gubin
area of Kotlina Kłodzka, with the fantastically
shaped Table Mountains, is within easy Zielona Góra
reach. Not far away lies Jelenia Góra, a LUBUSKIE

good base for hiking in the Karkonosze Wschowa
Cottbus Nowa Sól
Mountains in summer or for skiing on
Bó b
the nearby slopes in winter. The visitor to
r
Żary
Silesia will also find beautiful palaces and GŁOGÓW
ŻAGAŃ
churches in almost every village. Many
Szprotawa
fine residences, however, are gradually Polkowice
Iłowa
falling into ruin.
Chocianów Lubin
Bolesławiec
LEGNICA
Bó
Zgorzelec GRODZIEC
br
LEGNICKIE
Lubań LWÓWEK
Dresden POLE
ŚLĄSKI
ZŁOTORYJA
CZOCH CASTLE
Pilchowice JAWOR
LUBOMIERZ Świny
JELENIA GÓRA BOLKÓW
Szklarska Poręba Cieplice Wałbrzych
KA Karpacz KSIĄŻ
M OR K O N
UN OSZE
TA I N
S KRZESZÓW
Hradec
Key
Motorway
Main road
Kudowa
Minor road Zdrój
Sheep in the alpine pastures of the Beskid Śląski Mountains
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Sights at a Glance
1 Żagań t Bolków l Otmuchów
2 Głogów y Książ z Nysa
3 Lubiąż u Świdnica x Opole
4 Legnica i Zagórze Śląskie c Góra Świętej Anny
5 Legnickie Pole o Mt Ślęża v Cieszyn
6 Jawor p Wojnowice b Pszczyna
7 Złotoryja a Trzebnica n Upper Silesian
8 Grodziec s Oleśnica Industrial Region
9 Lwówek Śląski d Wrocław pp194–203
0 Czoch Castle f Brzeg Tours
q Lubomierz g Henryków w The Foothills of the
e Krzeszów h Kamieniec Ząbkowicki Karkonosze Mountains
r Jelenia Góra k Paczków j Kłodzko Valley

SILESIA 183
Getting Around
There are rail links between all the major Silesian cities, so
that it is possible to travel by train from Wrocław to Jelenia
Góra, Legnica, Głogów, Świdnica, Wałbrzych and Kłodzko.
There are also good connections between Katowice, Opole
and Wrocław, and trains also stop in Brzeg. Although
smaller towns are accessible by bus, the service can be very
infrequent, so that outside the major cities the best way to
travel is by car. The A4 motorway links several major cities,
while smaller roads provide more scenic routes.
Poznań
Góra
Rawicz
de
O
r
Milicz
(Odra)
Żmigród
Ścinawa
The Baroque plague column in the Market
Wołów Square in Świdnica
Syców
LUBIĄŻ TRZEBNICA
WOJNOWICE OLEŚNICA
Środa Byczyna
Śląska WROCŁAW Namysłów
Praszka
Jelcz-Laskowice
de Kluczbork
DOLNOŚLĄSKIE
O
r ra)
(Od
Jaworzyna
Olesno
Częstochowa
MT ŚLĘŻA
BRZEG
ŚWIDNICA
Wiązów
OPOLSKIE
Strzelin Dobrodzień
ZAGÓRZE
Niemcza Lubliniec
ŚLĄSKIE Grodków
OPOLE
HENRYKÓW
Strzelce
KAMIENIEC Opolskie ŚLĄSKIE
ZĄBKOWICKI Krapkowice Tarnowskie
NYSA Góry
Kłodzko PACZKÓW GÓRA ŚWIĘTEJ
OTMUCHÓW ANNY
KŁ O DZ K O
Głogówek Bytom
Bystrzyca Lądek Kędzierzyn- Zabrze Chorzów
Kłodzka Zdrój Głuchołazy Prudnik Koźle
U
D PPE
IN
Katowice
Głubczyce US R S
V
TR ILESI
ALL E
IAL AN
Rybnik REGION
O der (
Racibórz
Y
Zory
Od
PSZCZYNA
ra
)
Ostrava
Bielsko-
CIESZYN BIała
Wisła
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
The house of Gerhard Hauptmann in Jagniątków

of the Assumption, set on an

island in the Odra, and the
Church of St Nicholas in the old
town, have not been rebuilt.
However, the beautiful Jesuit
Baroque Church of Corpus
Christi (Kościół Bożego Ciała),
built in 1694–1724 to a design
by Giulio Simonetti, has been
reconstructed. Its original twin-
tower façade was added in 1711
by Johann Blasius Peintner. The
The Baroque-Neo-Classical palace of the Talleyrand family in Żagań picturesque town hall with its
slender tower owes its present
1 Żagań from the 1830s. The library of form to remodelling carried out
Road map B4. * 26,000. £ @ the monastery next to the by Augustus Soller in 1831–4. It
n ul. Szprotawska 4 (68 477 10 01). church contains works by the too has been reconstructed. On
∑ um.zagan.pl 18th-century painter George the bank of the Odra stands the
Wilhelm Neunhertz and items castle of the dukes of Głogów,
The origins of Żagań go back connected to the German with its original 14th-century
as far as the 13th century. A astronomer Johannes Kepler, medieval tower and Gothic
particularly happy episode in who worked in Żagań between cellars, and later Baroque walls.
the history of this pretty town 1628 and 1630. It houses the Archaeological
on the River Bóbr was the and Historical Museum.
period from 1845 to 1862, E Cultural Institute Among the exhibits are a
thanks to the beautiful ul. Szprotawska 4. Tel 68 477 64 75. collection of instruments
Dorothea Talleyrand-Périgord, Open 7:30am–4pm Mon–Fri. & of torture.
the youngest daughter of Peter R Church of Saints Peter and
Biron, Duke of Kurland. Paul E Archaeological and Historical
Dorothea was something of a ul. Łużycka. Museum
social magnet. She was a friend ul. Brama Brzostowska 1. Tel 76 834 10
R Church of the Assumption 81. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
of Maurice Charles de Talley-
pl. Klasztorny 2. Tel 68 444 31 14. (free Sat).
rand, one of Louis Napoleon’s
ministers, and his nephew’s R Church of Corpus Christi
wife. Her circle attracted the ul. Powstańców. Tel 76 833 36 01.
most eminent composers and
2 Głogów
writers of the day, among them Road map B4. * 69,000. £ @ n
Franz Liszt and Giuseppe Verdi. ul. Rynek 10 (76 726 55 51). _ Jazz in 3 Lubiąż
Her residence was the palace Głogów (Oct, Nov). ∑ glogow.pl
Road map B4. * 2,300. £ Malczyce.
built for Albrecht von @ Abbey. Lubiąż Foundation: Tel 71
Wallenstein, a commander in This town on the Odra River was 322 21 29. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48). established about 1,000 years daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm daily. &
Dorothea had alterations made, ago but fell into ruin during
and the palace’s present Neo- World War II. Two Gothic The gigantic Cistercian
Classical appearance and the churches, the collegiate Church monastic complex situated on
layout of the rooms were the high bank of the River Odra
commissioned by her in the comes into view from a great
mid-19th century. It now distance. Cistercian monks first
houses the Cultural Institute. settled in Lubiąż in 1175. They
Other prominent buildings built a Romanesque church
in the town are the Franciscan followed by a Gothic basilica,
Church of Saints Peter and of which the twin-tower façade
Paul (Kościół św. Piotra i Pawła), and ducal chapel remain. The
built in the Gothic style and present abbey dates from
dating from the 14th century. 1681–1715. After World War II, it
The enormous Church of the was used as a warehouse for
Assumption (Kościół unsold books, mostly works by
Wniebowzięcia NMP), which Lenin. Its restoration began in
once belonged to the the mid-1990s. An exhibition
Augustinians, also merits of Silesian sculpture as well
attention. It was built in stages as certain rooms of the
from the late 13th to the early monastery, including the
16th century, although the Architecture old and new: a street in the refectory and the Ducal Hall,
finely furnished interior dates old town in Głogów are now open to the public.
SILESIA 185
R Parish Church of John the

Baptist
ul. Partyzantów 25. Tel 76 724 41 88.
R Church of the Virgin Mary
pl. Mariacki 1. Tel 76 854 34 40.
Closed to the public.
R Cathedral of Saints Peter and
Paul
pl. Katedralny 6. Tel 76 724 42 81.
5 Legnickie Pole
Road map B4. * 1,300. @
It was at Legnickie Pole that a

great battle between the Poles,
led by Henry II, the Pious, and
the Tartars took place on 9
April 1241. Despite the Turks’
defeat of the Poles and the
death of their commander,
Poland prevented westward
Tartar expansion. The Museum
of the Battle of Legnica details
this event.
The Benedictine abbey,
dating from 1727–31 and built
Refectory of the Cistercian Abbey in Lubiąż by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer
in the Baroque style, is the
The ceiling of the refectory into a chapel, the Mausoleum of greatest attraction of this small
is decorated with paintings the Silesian Piasts (1677–8). village. The abbey church,
by Michael Willmann, whose In the northern part of the old dedicated to St Jadwiga, has
work is also to be seen on the town stands the Dukes’ Castle. an elliptical nave and
altars of the parish church in It has medieval origins and was undulating vaulting covered
Lubiąż. The great Ducal Hall remodelled many times. The with trompe l’oeil paintings by
is a magnificent example of fine Renaissance gate was added Cosmas Damian Asam. Its
the late Baroque style, its by George von Amberg in 1532– furnishings are equally fine.
purpose being to glorify the 3. From here, Ulica Mariacka
faith and the feats of the leads to the Gothic Church of E Museum of the Battle of
Habsburg dynasty. the Virgin Mary (Kościół NMP), Legnica
which dates from the 14th Tel 76 858 23 98. Open 11am–5pm
century; it was remodelled in the Wed–Sun. & (free on Wed).
4 Legnica first half of the 15th century.
Road map B4. * 100,000. £ n In the Market Square stand the
Rynek 25 (76 722 00 10). ∑ portal. Baroque town hall, from 1737–
legnica.eu 46, which houses a theatre, and
the Gothic Cathedral of Saints
Legnica, after Wrocław and Peter and Paul (Katedra św.
Opole Silesia’s third-largest city, Piotra i Pawła), built in the 14th
became the capital of the century and preserving a 13th-
independent duchy of Legnica century baptismal font. In the
in the 13th century. Today it is centre of the Market Square are
a large administrative centre eight narrow arcaded houses
and copper-mining town, as known as the Herring Stalls and,
evidenced by the displays in at No. 40, a 16th-century house
the Copper Museum. known as Under the Quail’s Nest
The Parish Church of John House, with sgraffito decoration.
the Baptist (Fara św. Jana
Chrzciciela) is one of the most E Copper Museum
beautiful Baroque shrines in ul. Partyzantów 3. Tel 76 862 49 49.
Silesia, built for the Jesuits in Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & (free
1714–27. The presbytery of the on Sat and one Wed a month). The Baroque façade of the Benedictine abbey
∑ muzeum-miedzi.art.pl
original church was converted church in Legnickie Pole
Church of St Martin (Kościół

św. Marcina), and the late
15th-century Church of St Mary
(Kościół Mariacki). The best
place to finish a walk around
the town is the Market Square,
which is surrounded by
arcaded Baroque houses.
E Gallery of Silesian
Ecclesiastical Art
ul. Klasztorna 6. Tel 76 870 30 86
or 870 23 21. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–5pm Wed–Sun; Nov–Mar:
Tower of the Baroque Church of 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & (free Wed).
Peace in Jawor Gothic doorway of the 15th-century
Grodziec Castle
6 Jawor 7 Złotoryja
Road map B4. * 24,000. £ @ Road map B4. * 15,700.
8 Grodziec
n Rynek 3 (76 870 33 71). £ @ n Basztowa 15 (76 878 Road map B4. * 500. £ Złotoryja.
18 73). _ World Gold-Panning @ Castle: Open daily.
The capital of an independent Championships (May). ∑ grodziec.com
duchy in the Middle Ages,
Jawor is dominated by a castle Derived from the Polish word An imposing fortification
that is a vestige of those times. złoto, meaning gold, the town’s crowning a basalt hill, Grodziec
Reconstruction has robbed the name reflects the fact that the Castle was built in the 15th
castle of much of its original gold-rich sands of the River century in the Gothic style as
splendour, but other buildings, Kaczawa, which flows through the seat of the dukes of Legnica.
which were painstakingly Złotoryja, have been exploited It was extended in 1522–4 and
restored after World War II, since the early Middle Ages. over the next four centuries it
enhance the town’s historic Even today gold-seekers flock to was destroyed several times,
atmosphere. contests organized by the local once during the Thirty Years’ War
The most picturesque gold-panning association. (1618–48). It was rebuilt in the
building is the large Church of Features of interest in Romantic style in 1906–8.
Peace (Kościół Pokoju). It was Złotoryja include the Gothic The walls, which follow the
one of three Protestant “peace Church of St Mary (Kościół contours of the hill, are irregular.
churches” erected in Silesia NMP), which has a 13th-century The castle’s tower and living
after the Peace of Westphalia presbytery, and the remains of quarters survive.
that marked the end of the the town walls. At the bottom of the hill is
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48). It the magnificent, although
was built by Andreas Kempner, Environs neglected, palace built for the
to a design by Albrecht von The volcanic Wilcza Góra Frankenberg family by Johann
Säbisch, in 1654–6. With the Geological Park, also known as Blasius Peintner in 1718–27. Its
church in Świdnica (see p191), Wilkołak, lies 2 km (1¼ miles) overgrown surroundings were
it is among the world’s largest south of Złotoryja. Unusual once attractive gardens.
timber-framed structures. basalt formations known as
Other notable buildings in “basalt roses” can be seen in
Jawor are the 14th-century the western part of the park.
9 Lwówek Śląski
Road map B4. * 9,300. £ @
n pl. Wolności 1 (76 647 79 12).
∑ lwowekslaski.pl
Lwówek Śląski is a small town

set on a precipice overlooking
the River Bóbr, in the foothills of
the Izerski Mountains. Remnants
of the stone walls that once
surrounded the settlement can
be seen all around.
The centrepiece of the town is
its Gothic-Renaissance town hall.
Built in the 15th century, it was
extended in 1522–5 and restored
Gold-panning competition in Złotoryja in 1902–5, when the delightful
SILESIA 187
survive in Lwówek Śląski.

q Lubomierz
The church was built by Road map B4. * 1,800. £ @
Franciscan monks but fell n ul. Wacława Kowalskiego 1
into disuse in 1810. (75 783 35 73). _ Review of Polish
Comedy Films (Aug).
Environs
The castle at Płakowice, 2 km A sleepy little town in the
(1¼ miles) south of Lwówek foothills of the Izerskie
Śląski, is one of the finest Mountains, Lubomierz boasts
Renaissance castles in Silesia. a picturesque market square
It was built in 1550–63 for the lined with large arcaded houses.
von Talkenberg family. The Baroque Benedictine
church built by Johann Jakob
0 Czoch Castle Scheerhof in 1727–30
dominates the town.
Road map B4. @ Sucha. Tel 75 721 Many Polish films have been
15 53. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. 0 shot in Lubomierz. The popular
∑ zamekczocha.com
Gothic-Renaissance town hall in comedy film Sami swoi (“Just
Lwówek Śląski Our Own”) brought it the
Czoch Castle (Zamek Czocha) greatest renown. The film
arcades around the building is one of Silesia’s major tourist follows the fortunes of displaced
were added. Several town attractions. Standing in a persons from Poland’s eastern
houses of historical interest picturesque location on the territories – which were lost to
stand in the Market Square. banks of Lake Leśniańskie, it the Soviet Union after World
The twin-towered Church can be seen for miles around. War II – as they settle in the
of the Assumption (Kościół The castle dates from the town, itself a former German
Wniebowzięcia) has an 14th century, and because it territory ceded to Poland.
imposing Romanesque façade was destroyed and rebuilt
which dates from the 13th several times over many E The Kargul and Pawlak
century. The tympanum centuries, incorporates a range Museum
over the portal depicts the of architectural styles. It was ul. Wacława Kowalskiego 1. Tel 75 783
Coronation of the Virgin. The most recently renovated in the 35 73. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri,
main body of the church was early part of the 20th century, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun. & ∑ sami-
not added until the turn of when the Gütschoff family of swoi.com.pl
the 16th century. The Gothic Dresden had their dilapidated This museum is housed in
chapel on the south side, family seat rebuilt by Bodo Płóciennik House, built in the
which dates from 1496, has Ebhardt in 1904–14. Ebhardt’s 16th century and reconstructed
vaulting with beautiful Romantic vision restored Zamek around 1700. Its collection
16th-century frescoes. Czocha to its former glory and includes items used during
The ruins of the castle has since been used the making of Sylwester
another Gothic as the setting for several films. Chęciński’s film
church also It is now an atmospheric hotel. Sami swoi.
The imposing outline of Czoch Castle in Sucha

wThe Foothills of the

Karkonosze Mountains
The Karkonosze Mountains, the highest in the Sudeten
(Sudety) chain, draw holiday-makers all year round. There
are many footpaths and good facilities for hikers throughout
the summer, while in winter skiers come to enjoy the
exhilarating pistes. The upper parts of the Karkonosze
Mountains are a national park, recognized by UNESCO
as a World Biosphere Reserve.
In the lower parts of the
mountains are several attractive
1 Cieplice
small towns, such as Karpacz and This popular spa town has
Szklarska Poręba, as well as a number of fine Baroque
Cieplice and Sobieszów in buildings, including
Jelenia Góra district (see p190). Schaffgotsch Palace and its
Cistercian and Protestant
churches. There is also a natural
history museum.
2 Szklarka Waterfall
A forest of fir trees provides a scenic
setting for the 15-m (45-ft) waterfall.
Piechowice
Jakuszyce
Sz
kla
rk
a
3 Szklarska Poręba
This health resort is a good starting point for
excursions into the Karkonosze Mountains. It
is also famous for its glassworks – handmade
crystal artifacts are available in local kiosks.
4 Jagniątków
A picturesque villa was built
here by the Nobel Prize-
winning author Gerhart
Hauptmann for his second
wife in 1900–02. It now
houses a gallery of paintings
illustrating scenes from
Hauptmann’s works.
5 Sobieszów: Chojnik Castle

6 Miłków Situated on a high escarpment,
A Baroque palace and this 14th-century castle was built
church surrounded by for Duke Bolko II. In the 15th and
stone walls covered in 16th centuries it was renovated
penitentiary crosses are by the Schaffgotsch family, but in
the main attractions of 1675 was gutted by a fire after
this village. being struck by lightning.

SILESIA 189
8 Mysłakowice Tips for Drivers

The village is noted for its
Neo-Gothic palace, which Tour length: About 70 km
once belonged to Kaiser (46 miles).
Friedrich Wilhelm IV, for a Stopping-off points: Bars and
church designed by Karl restaurants can be found in
Friedrich Schinkel, and for Szklarska Poręba, Cieplice and
Tyrolean-style houses built Karpacz. The Spiż restaurant in
by religious refugees fleeing Miłków is recommended.
persecution in the Tyrol. Other attractions: Karpacz also
has a chair lift to Kopa, which is
one hour’s walk from Mt Śnieżka.
Another chair lift from Szklarska
Poręba goes to Szrenica.
Key Interior of the Cistercian Church of

St Mary in Krzeszów
Scenic route
Jelenia Góra
Other road e Krzeszów
Road map B5. * 1,300. £
Kamienna Góra. @ Church of St Mary,
na Church of St Joseph: and Mausoleum
ien 0 Kilometres 5
Kam
5
of the Silesian Piasts: Tel 75 742 32 79.
0 miles
Open 9am–6pm daily (Nov–Apr:
to 3pm). & ^
Jelenia
Sobieszów Góra
This tiny village in the Góry
Kamienne Mountains has one
of the most picturesque
groups of historic buildings
Lake
Sosnówka in Poland. Benedictine monks
settled here in 1242, followed
n ic a
by Cistercian monks in 1292.

Łom
They were responsible for

building the Church of St
Joseph (Kościół św. Józefa),
which has frescoes by Michael
Willmann, in 1690–96. They also
built the abbey Church of
St Mary (Kościół NMP Łaskawej)
in 1727–35. The interior is
decorated with vertiginous
trompe l’oeil paintings by
Georg Wilhelm Neunhertz;
sculptures by Anton Dorazil and
Ferdinand Maximilian Brokoff
make the pilasters, cornices and
vaulting appear to float in mid-
air. The figures of saints on the
stalls in the chancel are of
particular interest.
Behind the presbytery is the
7 Karpacz
Mausoleum of the Silesian
The buildings of this Piasts (Mauzoleum Piastów
popular health resort Śląskich), with the Gothic tombs
are concentrated along of Bolko I (d. 1301) and Bolko II
a single street 7 km (d. 1368), dukes of Świdnica-
(4.5 miles) long. The Jawor. Figures of their wives,
wooden Romanesque Agnieszka and Beatrycze, stand
church here was opposite the tombs. On the
brought from Vang, in wall is an epitaph by the son
Norway, in 1842–4. of Bolko II, the last member of
the Piast dynasty.
E Natural History Museum

Jelenia Góra – Cieplice, ul. Cieplicka
11a. Tel 75 755 15 06. Open May–Sep:
9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat, Sun;
Oct–Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun.
& ∑ muzeum-cieplice.pl
E Karkanosze National Park

Ecological Education Centre
Szklarska Poręba ul. Okrzei 28.
Tel 75 717 21 24. Open 9am–4pm
daily. Closed Nov.
Arcaded houses around the Market Square in Jelenia Góra

t Bolków
Road map B4. * 5,200. £ @
r Jelenia Góra (Kościół św. Krzyża), known
also as the Church of Peace. The great towering Castle of
Road map B4. * 83,000. £ @
n pl. Piastowski 36 (75 755 88 44 or The town boundaries of the Dukes of Świdnica-Jawor
755 88 45). Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, Jelenia Góra were expanded in is the main feature of this small
10am–2pm Sat. n ul. Bankowa 27 1976 and now include the spa town. It was built in stages
(75 767 69 25). Open 9am–6pm of Cieplice, with its Natural from the mid-13th to the mid-
Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, Sun. _ History Museum, and the town 14th century. Sacked and
Cieplice Spring (May); International of Sobieszów (see pp188–9), destroyed several times, in the
Street Theatre Festival (Jul); Jelenia which includes the Karkonosze 16th century it was rebuilt in
Góra (Aug). ∑ jeleniagora.pl National Park Ecological the Renaissance style by Jakob
Education Centre. Paar. Today the castle is a local
Situated at the foot of the history museum. The Gothic
Karkonosze Mountains, Jelenia R Church of Saints Erasmus Church of St Jadwiga (Kościół
Góra is a favourite tourist and Pancras św. Jadwigi) is also worth a visit.
destination and a major pl. Kościelny 1–2. In the old town, several fine
starting point for Tel 75 752 21 60. houses survive.
mountain hikers. The This Gothic basilica
town was granted city of the first half of the E Castle Museum
status at the end of the 14th century features ul. Zamkowa 1. Tel 75 741 32 97.
13th century. It was once late Gothic vaulting Open May–Oct: 9am–4:30pm Tue–Fri,
renowned for its textiles – dating from about 9am–5:30pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr:
delicate batiste and voile 1550 and a Baroque closes 1 hr earlier. Closed public hols
that were exported as far altar depicting the & (free on Mon).
as Africa and America. It Silesian glassware Transfiguration.
was also one of the main Environs
centres of engraved glassware, R Church of the Holy Cross In Świny, 2 km (1.25 miles) north
examples of which can be seen ul. 1 Maja. Tel 75 642 32 82. of Bolków, are the haunting ruins
in the Regional Museum. This church (Kościół św. Krzyża), of a castle. The upper part was
The town’s historic centre built by Martin Franze in 1709– built in the 14th century. The
is the Market Square, with a 18, is modelled on St Catherine’s lower wing is a 17th-century
Baroque town hall surrounded in Stockholm. A triple tier of late Baroque palace.
by arcaded town houses. In galleries lines the interior and
Ulica Maria Konopnicka, east frescoes by Felix Anton Scheffler
of the Market Square, is the and Jozef Franz Hoffman cover
Church of Saints Erasmus and the ceilings. The altar, which is
Pancras (Kościół św. Erazma i structurally integrated with the
Pankracego), a Gothic basilica organ loft, is particularly striking.
of the late 14th to early 15th
centuries. The line of the E Regional Museum
old defensive walls here is ul. Matejki 28. Tel 75 752 34 65.
marked by a chapel that Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar:
was once a keep. to 4pm). & (free on Sun).
In Ulica 1 Maja, on the same ∑ muzeumkarkonoskie.pl
axis, is the Church of Our Lady, Jelenia Góra’s Regional Museum
with two penitentiary crosses contains the largest collection
(see p191) set into the outer of decorative glassware in the
walls. The street then leads to whole of Poland. A traditional
the Baroque former Protestant Karkonosze hut nearby houses
Church of the Holy Cross an ethnographical exhibition. The crenellated tower of Bolków Castle
SILESIA 191
y Książ building, however, is the

Road map B5. Castle Wałbrzych, ul. Church of Peace (Kościół
Piastów Śl. Tel 74 664 38 34. Open Pokoju). With that in Jawor (see
Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm p186), it is one of two surviving
Sat & Sun); Oct–Mar: 10am–3pm Tue– Protestant “peace churches”
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. - Palm built after the Peace of
House Wałbrzych-Lubiechowo, ul. Westphalia that ended the
Wrocławska 158. Open Apr: 10am–
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48).
5pm Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 10am–5pm
daily; Oct: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun;
The timber-framed church,
Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–Fri, designed by Albrecht von
10am–4pm Sat & Sun. & 8 Säbisch, was built in 1656–7.
∑ ksiaz.walbrzych.pl Its undistinguished exterior
conceals an unusual interior,
Książ Castle, on the outskirts with a two-tiered gallery, fine
of Wałbrzych, is the largest paintings and furnishings.
residential building in Silesia.
This huge edifice was built High altar in the Cathedral of Saints E Museum of Silesian Trade
on a rocky hilltop overlooking Stanisław and Wenceslas Rynek 37. Tel 74 852 12 91. Open
the surrounding wooded 10am–3pm Tue–Fri, 11am– 5pm Sat
countryside. The late 13th- u Świdnica & Sun. &
century Gothic castle of Road map B4. * 60,000. £ @ R Cathedral of Saints Stanisław
Prince Bolko I was rebuilt in ∑ swidnica.pl and Wenceslas
the mid-16th century for the pl. Jana Pawła II. Tel 74 852 27 29.
Hochberg family of Meissen, For almost 100 years from 1292, Open 10am–5:45pm daily. 8
who remained its owners until Świdnica was the capital of the R Church of Peace
World War II. One of the most independent duchy of pl. Pokoju. Tel 74 852 28 14. Open
powerful Silesian families, they Świdnica-Jawor. It minted its Apr–Oct: 9am–1pm and 3–6pm daily
extended the building several own coins and was renowned (Sun: pm only); Nov–Mar: call first.
times, particularly in 1670–1724 for its beer, which was exported
and 1909–23. The Hochbergs’ to many cities in Central Europe. Environs
reputation was coloured by The town’s mercantile traditions Jaworzyna, 10 km (6 miles)
several scandals. The penultimate are well illustrated in the northwest of Świdnica, has
owner of the castle was Hans Museum of Silesian Trade that Poland’s largest museum of
Henry XV von Pless. After is housed in the town hall. steam locomotives.
divorcing his wife, he married a From the pretty market
much younger Spanish woman. square, with its fine Baroque
She gave birth to a daughter, plague column (see p183), Ulica
but then left the elderly prince Długa, the main street, leads to
for his son Bolko. the 14th-century Cathedral of
During World War II attempts Saints Stanisław and
were made to convert the Wenceslas (Katedra św.
castle into headquarters for Stanisława i Wacława), a Gothic
Adolf Hitler by drilling tunnels building with the highest
into the rocky hill. Today part of tower in Silesia. The interior is
the castle houses a museum, a richly furnished and decorated
hotel and a restaurant. The in styles ranging from Gothic
grounds are now the Książ to Baroque. The altar
Nature Park. The stables and canopy was made by
palm house, still in use, are Johann Riedl in Penitentiary cross in Łaziska,
open to visitors. 1694. The town’s Upper Silesia
most impressive
Penitentiary Crosses
As a form of punishment,
criminals in the Middle Ages
sometimes had to make a
stone cross and place it at the
scene of their crime or near a
church. Depictions of the
implement used to carry out
the deed (such as a crossbow)
or a part of the victim’s body
(such as the feet) were
engraved on the cross.
Książ Castle, set high above the River Pelcznica
P Walim Tunnels (Sztolnie w E Ślęża Museum

Walimiu) Sobótka, ul. św. Jakuba 18. Tel 71 316
Tel 74 845 73 00. Open May–Sep: 26 22. Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun and
9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat, last Tue in the month.
Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri,
9am–5pm Sat, Sun. ∑ sztolnie.pl
P Osowiec Tunnels (Sztolnie w
p Wojnowice
Osówce) Road map B4. * 400. @ £
Tel 74 845 62 20. Open 10am–6pm Mrozów. Tel 71 317 07 26. Open call
daily (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). Closed 1 in advance. ∑ zamekwojnowice.pl
Nov, 24, 25, 31 Dec. & 8
∑ osowka.pl Wojnowice presents a rare
opportunity to see a genuine
Renaissance gate of Grodno Castle in and well-preserved Silesian
Zagórze Śląskie o Mt Ślęża Renaissance manor house.
Road map B4. It was built in the early 16th
i Zagórze Śląskie century for Nikolaus von
Road map B5. * 430. @ £ Mt Ślęża is a conical peak Scheibitz and soon after was
visible from great distances all acquired by the Boner family,
The main attraction in this small around. Used as a location for who converted it into a
village is Grodno Castle. Built by religious rituals during the Renaissance castle with a small
Bolko I at the end of the 13th Bronze Age (3500–1500 BC), it arcaded courtyard. Compact
century, it was altered by later is crowned with a stone circle, and moated, it is now a hotel,
owners and then fell into ruin, and mysterious statues of with an excellent restaurant. It is
but was saved by major unknown origin stand beside a superb place for a short break.
restoration work in 1907–29. the road leading to the summit.
Today the castle houses a The best view of the
museum, whose more curious surrounding countryside is
exhibits include the skeleton of from the terrace of the Neo-
a young woman. For the murder Romanesque church built on
of her husband, she was con- Mt Ślęża in 1851–2. The hill of
demned to death by starvation neighbouring Wieżyca has at
by her own father. its summit a tower erected in
honour of the German
+ Grodno Castle statesman Otto von Bismarck
Tel 74 845 33 60. Open May–Sep: in 1906–7, and is also a good
9am–6pm daily (to 7pm Sat & Sun); vantage point from which to
Oct–Apr: 9am–5pm daily (to 6pm Sat & view the entire area.
Sun). Closed Easter, 1 Nov, 24 & 25 Dec. In Sobótka, at the foot of Mt
Ślęża, a former hospital built by
Environs Augustinian monks houses the
A few kilometres south of Ślęża Museum. The best place Moated Renaissance manor house
Zagórze Sląskie are to stay, or stop for lunch, is the in Wojnowice
underground tunnels dug hotel Zamek Górka, located in
secretly in the final year of a Gothic-Renaissance
World War II by prisoners of Augustinian presbytery that
a Trzebnica
the Gross-Rosen (Rogoźnica) later became the palace of Road map C4. * 12,100. £
concentration camp. the von Kulmiz family. Oborniki Śląskie. @ ∑ trzebnica.pl
In 1203 Jadwiga, wife of Henry I,

brought an order of Cistercian
monks from Bamberg, in
southern Germany, to Trzebnica.
Jadwiga was buried here and,
after her canonization in 1267,
the monastery became an
important place of pilgrimage.
The entire complex underwent
major rebuilding in the second
half of the 1600s, obliterating its
Romanesque architecture,
although the tympanum of the
main portal retains a fine relief
Country track in Ślęża of around 1230 representing the
SILESIA 193
Old Testament figures David palace of Jan Podiebrad, built in

and Bathsheba. The Gothic 1559–63.
chapel of St Jadwiga contains A pleasant way of rounding
her Baroque-style tomb, dating off a visit to Oleśnica is to walk
from 1677–8. The figure of the through the old quarter to the
saint was carved by Franz Josef Gothic Church of St John the
Mangoldt in 1750. Evangelist (Kościół św. Jana
Ewangelisty). Beside the
presbytery is a chapel built in
memory of the dukes of
Wurtemberg, and containing
the tombs of Jan and Jerzy
Podiebrad. Other elements
include the Mannerist pulpit
and the Gothic stalls from the
late 15th and early 16th
centuries. Remnants of castle
walls, with the tower of the
Coronation of the Virgin in the portal of
Wrocławski Gate, and the Neo-
the Chapel of St Jadwiga
Classical town hall, rebuilt after Renaissance sculpture on the gate tower
World War II, are other features of Brzeg Castle
of interest.
s Oleśnica the Castle of the Dukes of
Road map C4. * 38,000. £ @ + Castle of the Dukes of Legnica-Brzeg. It was built
∑ olesnica.pl Oleśnica originally in the Gothic style and
Tel 605 356 193. Open daily. a 14th-century Gothic chapel
The most impressive building in survives, in whose presbytery a
the town is the Castle of the mausoleum to the Silesian
Dukes of Oleśnica. While the
d Wrocław Piasts was built in 1567. The
Gothic interior is original, the See pp194–203. castle was transformed into
exterior, with its circular corner a Renaissance palace in the
tower, is the result of successive second half of the 16th century.
stages of rebuilding from f Brzeg The three-winged complex
1542 to 1610 by the Italian Road map C5. * 37,000. £ @ features a circular courtyard
architects Francesco Parr ∑ brzeg.pl and a tower over the entrance
and Bernardo Niuron. gate dating from 1554. The
The castle retains The attractive town of Brzeg, on walls are decorated with busts
ornamental gables in the River Odra, has an illustrious of all the ancestors of Duke
the attic rooms in the history. It received its charter in Jerzy II and his wife Barbara von
wings and the unusual 1245, and from 1311 to 1675 Brandenburg. Today the castle
galleries supported was the capital of the duchy houses the Museum of the
on brackets of Legnica-Brzeg. The town’s Silesian Piasts.
overlooking the most impressive building is Other buildings of interest
courtyard. Attached without doubt are the town hall, erected in
to the castle is the 1570–7, the 14th-century
Church of St Nicholas (Kościół
św. Mikołaja) and the late
Baroque Jesuit church, which
was built in 1734–9.
E Museum of the Silesian Piasts

pl. Zamkowy 1. Tel 77 416 42 10.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (last adm
4pm). & 8
Environs
A few kilometres from Brzeg is
the small village of Małujowice,
or Mollwitz, where on 10 April
1741 a major battle was fought
in the Austro-Prussian war. The
Gothic church there contains
unusual 14th-century frescoes
Courtyard of the Castle of the Dukes of Oleśnica and Renaissance ceilings.
d Wrocław
The city of Wrocław bears the stamp of several cultures. It was
founded by a Czech duke in the 10th century and a Polish
bishopric was established here in 1000. Later it became the
capital of the duchy of Silesian Piasts, and then came under
Czech rule in 1335. In 1526, with the whole Czech state, it was
incorporated into the Habsburg Empire, and in 1741 was
transferred to Prussian rule. The fierce defence that German
forces put up here in the last months of World War II left
almost three-quarters of the city in ruins. However,
reconstruction has largely healed the ravages of the past.
Baroque pietą in the Church of the

P Wrocław University Holy Name of Jesus
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Aula Leopoldina: Church of the
Tel 71 375 26 18. Open 10am–4pm Holy Name of Jesus
Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am–5pm Fri–Sun. Wrocław University
& ∑ uni.wroc.pl PLAC
Arsenal KA UNIWERSYTECKI
DZ
SKA
Wrocław University was C IE
SZY
GRO U N IW
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Airport H CKA
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TK CH
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SKA
St Barbara Ś W. Church of
NIC
university. Many of its alumni MIK
OŁA St Elizabeth
I AT
JA
SZEW
KUŹ
ZA
have gained renown. They

ZA
ŚW
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SK MARKET
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include nine Nobel laureates, SQUARE
NOWY
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among them the nuclear
P O D WA L E
RSK OS
KIEŁ
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physicist Max Born (1882–
PS
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ŚW E Cathedral
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1970). Since 1945 it has been N of St Mary
BU
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and university. Ś
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The centrepiece of this OW Library H
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imposing Baroque building is
WS
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the assembly hall, the Aula

SZ E
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PN
Palace ZA
WI
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Leopoldina, of 1728–41. The EL

KR
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decoration includes stucco- PO PLAC
WOLNOŚCI Church of Saints
DW
work, gilding and carvings AL Wenceslas, Stanisław
E and Dorothy M E N N
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by Franz Josef Mangoldt PLAC
TEATRALNY
and paintings by Christoph Dolnośląska T E AT
A ŁA
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Opera Hause
Handke glorifying wisdom,
CI
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knowledge and science, and BO ŻEG Theatre
ŚW
0 yards 200 M. Kopernik

the founders of the academy. Park
Jewish Cemetery POD

WALE
Central Wrocław
1 Wrocław University
2 Church of the Holy Name
of Jesus
3 Plac Biskupa Nankera
4 National Museum
5 Panorama of Racławice
6 Bernadine Church and Monastery
7 Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene
8 Kameleon Store
9 Market Square
0 Town Hall
q Church of St Elizabeth
w Royal Palace
e Church of Saints Wenceslas,
The richly ornamented interior of the university assembly hall Stanisław and Dorothy
WROCŁAW 195
R Church of the Holy Name VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

of Jesus
pl. Uniwersytecki 1. Tel 71 344 94 23. Practical Information
This church (Kościół Najświęt- Road map C4. * 630,000.
szego Imienia Jezus), built for n Rynek 14 (71 344 31 11).
the Jesuits in 1689–98, is a good _ Festival of Stage Songs (Mar);
example of Silesian Baroque Jazz on the Odra (May);
church architecture. The modest International Street Art Festival
(Aug); Wrocław Guitar Festival
exterior conceals a breathtaking
(Nov). ∑ wroclaw.pl
interior, built in 1722–34 by
Krzysztof Tausch. The vaulting Transport
was decorated by the Viennese The Baroque Hochberg Chapel beside the k Strachowice 11 km (7 miles)
artist Johann Michael Rottmayer Church of St Vincent west of Wrocław. £ ul.
in 1704–6. Piłsudskiego 105.
Church of
St Martin Church of the
Piasek Island Holy Cross Church of
Church of
most
Tumski Ś W.
IDZIE
St Giles 17th-century paintings,
GO
St Anna including works by the Silesian
K AT PLAC
EDRA KATED-
PLAC ŚW. LNA
JADWIGI Church
of RALNY artist Michael Willmann (1630–
St Mary Archbishop’s Cathedral of
Ossoliński on Piasek Palace St John the Baptist 1706) and wooden sculptures
Library by Thomas Weissfeldt (1630–
Church of OSTRÓW TUMSKI
Chucrh of
St Vincent
BU
1712). The second floor is
LW Od
St Maciej Hala AR
XA
ra devoted to works by
PLAC Targowa W
A . F. ER contemporary Polish artists.
O WA
BISKUPA
NANKERA EG
O
M
O
DUN
OD
IEG
I KOWSK
PIASK
IEGO
RZ E W S K I E G O
K. JANICK
most
NOWY Pokoju
TARG
J A N A E WA N G E L I S T Y P U R KY N I E G O National
DY Ń SKA
Awangarda Museum
Church of
Gallery
Y
St Adalbert Panorama
ARZYN
of Racławice J. Słowacki
NAR
Bernardine Church
Park
BER
ALEJ and Monastery

K AT
A JULI
USZ WA C K I E G O
A SŁO Zoo
ŚW
People's Hall
OŁA
Szczytnicki Park
WSK
A
PLAC Façade of the National Museum
DOMINIKAŃSKI
Church of
St Christopher the Piasts as a mausoleum, and it E Panorama of Racławice
still contains Gothic ducal tombs. ul. Purkyniego 11. Tel 71 344 16 61.
A
ALE
RGI
ZBOW
Next door, at No. 17, is the Gothic Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (summer:
KA
PODW
Church of St Maciej (Kościół św. to 5pm daily). Closed see the website
WIER
RA S
Macieja), which dates from the for details. & (buy tickets online).
PIOT
14th and early 15th centuries 7 ∑ panoramaraclawicka.pl

KS.
and was once owned by the This painting depicts the Battle
Knights Hospitallers of the Red of Racławice of 4 April 1794,
Star. The pavilion of the gallery when the Poles defeated the
at No. 8, on the opposite side of Russians. It is 120 m (400 ft)
Train station the street, contains 13th-century long and 15 m (46 ft) high and
550 m (600 yards)
walls of the House of the Nuns took the artists Jan Styka and
of Trebnica, the oldest surviving Wojciech Kossak nine months
secular building in the city. to paint. Unveiled in 1894 in
+ Plac Biskupa Nankera Lviv, in Ukraine, it was brought
The buildings in this square date E National Museum to Poland in 1946 and put on
from various periods. The Gothic pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5. Tel 71 display in Wrocław in 1985.
Church of St Vincent (Kościół 372 51 50. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
św. Wincentego), at No. 5, was Wed–Sun (to 6pm Sat); Oct–Mar:
erected in the 13th to the 15th 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (to 5pm Sat).
centuries. The late 17th-century & 7 (free on Sat, limited
Baroque monastery is now part availability). ∑ mnwr.art.pl
of the University of Wrocław. The ground floor contains
The group of Baroque examples of Silesian and Gothic
monastic buildings at No. 16 art, including the tombstone of
encloses the small 13th-century Henry IV, the Good, dating from
Church of St Clare (Kościół św. 1300. The first floor has a Rotunda containing the Panorama of
Klary). The church was used by collection of 16th- and Racławice
Wrocław Old Town

For those who enjoy exploring on foot, the old town of
Wrocław is a delightful place. The restored buildings located
around the large Market Square have been given over to an
assortment of bars, restaurants and cafés with al fresco
seating, while the churches nearby contain a wealth of
religious art and ecclesiastical furnishings. The impressive
Gothic town hall has a finely decorated interior.
On summer evenings the Market Square in the old town
comes alive as local people and tourists alike gather there,
some to gossip and exchange news, others to attend the
concerts and many cultural events that are held there.
Detail of the ornamental façade of the

and the mid-15th century, House of the Seven Electors
incorporating the walls of
a 13th-century church that office building of 1912–13 by
had previously stood on the an equally renowned architect,
site. Inside the basilica is a Hans Poelzig.
Renaissance pulpit of 1579–81
by Friedrich Gross, a Gothic P Market Square
stone tabernacle and tomb- Rynek.
stones of various periods. The Wrocław’s Market Square is the
portal on the north side is a fine second-largest in Poland, after
example of late 12th-century that in Krakow. In the centre
Romanesque sculpture. It was stand the town hall and a
taken from a demolished group of buildings separated
Benedictine monastery in by alleys. The houses around
Olbina and added in 1546 the square date from the
Late Gothic portal of the Bernadine church (see p26). The tympanum, Renaissance to the 20th
depicting the Dormition of century. Some still have their
R Bernadine Church and the Virgin, is now on display original 14th- and 15th-century
Monastery in the National Museum. Gothic vaults. The most
ul. Bernardyńska 5. Museum of attractive side of the
Architecture: Tel 71 344 82 79. square is the west,
Open 10am–8pm daily. & (half-price which features the late
Mon). ∑ ma.wroc.pl Baroque House of the
This impressive group of Golden Sun, at No. 6,
monastic buildings (Kościół built in 1727 by Johann
i Klasztor pobernardyński) Lucas von Hildebrandt,
was constructed by as well as the House of
Bernadine monks in 1463– the Seven Electors,
1502. Having been rebuilt Detail of the Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene its paintwork dating
from their wartime ruins, from 1672. Also to the
they now house Poland’s P Kameleon Store south is the Griffin House, at
only Museum of Architecture. ul. Szewska 6. No. 2, built in 1587–9. It has
The monastery is of interest The Kameleon store (Dom a galleried interior courtyard.
for its late Gothic cloisters Handlowy Kameleon) is an On the east side, at Nos. 31
and the Church of St Bernard unusual building on the corner and 32, is the Secessionist
of Siena, a towering Gothic of Ulica Szewska and Ulica Phoenix store of 1904 and, at
basilica with a typically Oławska. Its semicircular bay, No. 41, the Golden Hound, a
Baroque gable. formed of rows of windows, rebuilt town house of 1713. The
juts out dramatically. It was north side was rebuilt after
R Cathedral of St Mary built by the German architect World War II. Just off the corner
Magdalene Erich Mendelsohn as a retail of the market square, fronting
ul. Oławska 19. Tel 71 344 19 04. store for Rudolf Petersdorf in the Church of St Elizabeth
Open 9am–noon, 4–6pm daily. 1927–8. Nearby, at the (Kościół św. Elżbiety), are two
The great Gothic Cathedral intersection of Ulica Łaciarskiej small acolytes’ houses, the
of St Mary Magdalene (Katedra and Ofiar Oświęcimskich, is Renaissance Jaś, of around
św Marii Magdaleny) was another interesting example 1564, and the 18th-century
erected between about 1330 of Modernist architecture, an Baroque Małgosia.
WROCŁAW 197
P Town Hall churches in Wrocław. The Gothic

ul. Sukiennice 14/15. basilica was built in the 14th
Historical Museum: ul. Kazimierza century on the site of an earlier
Wielkiego 35. Tel 71 347 16 90. church, although the tower
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am– was not completed until 1482.
6pm Sat & Sun. & It became a Protestant church
Rynek Stary Ratusz Museum of in 1525. Since 1946 it has been
Bourgeois Art: Tel 71 347 16 91.
a garrison church.
Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sat,
The church has suffered
10am–6pm Sun. ∑ mmw.pl
damage from a succession of
The town hall in Wrocław is one wars, fires and accidents. A fire
of the most important examples in 1976 destroyed the roof and The Church of Saints Wenceslas, Stanisław
of Gothic architecture in Central the splendid Baroque organ. and Dorothy
and Eastern Europe. Its present Fortunately, more than 350
appearance is the result of an epitaphs and tombstones have R Church of Saints
extensive period of rebuilding survived, forming a remarkable Wenceslas, Stanisław and
that took place between 1470 exhibition of Silesian stone- Dorothy
and 1510. carving from Gothic to Neo- Plac Wolności 3. Tel 71 343 27 21.
The town hall’s southern Classical times. Dedicated to three saints, the
façade was embellished with Czech St Wenceslas, the Polish
Neo-Gothic stone carvings in St Stanisław and the German
around 1871. Inside are St Dorothy, this church (Kościół
impressive vaulted halls, the św. Wacława, Stanisława i
largest being the triple-aisled Doroty) was built in 1351 to
Grand Hall on the ground floor, cement relations between the
and several late Gothic and three nationalities in Wrocław.
Renaissance doorways. The church’s unusually narrow
Outside the entrance to interior is Baroque. The Rococo
the town hall is a plaque tombstone of Gottfried von
commemorating the Spaetgen stands in the nave.
prominent poet and comedy
writer Aleksander Fredro
(1793–1876), who acquired Ossolineum
fame with his comedies about The National Ossoliński
the Polish upper classes. The Church of St Elizabeth with Jaś and Institute was founded by
plaque was made in 1879 Małgosia, acolytes’ houses Count Józef Maksymilian
by Leonard Marconi and Ossoliński in Vienna in 1817.
transferred to Wrocław from + Royal Palace In 1827 it moved to Lwów
Lviv in 1956 (see p31). ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 34/35. (later Lviv), where it
Ethnographical Museum: assembled collections of
ul. Traugutta 111/113. Tel 71 344 manuscripts, prints, etchings
33 13. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. and drawings, promoted
& (free on Sat). 7 scientific research and
∑ muzeumetnograficzne.pl engaged in publishing.
Archaeological Museum: After World War II most of
ul. Cieszyńskiego 9. Tel 71 347 16 96. the collections were
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sat, transferred to the National
10am–6pm Sun. & Museum in Wrocław, while
the manuscripts were
The Baroque palace, enclosed housed in the Baroque
by a court of annexes, was built monastery of the Knights
in 1719. After 1750, when Hospitallers of the Red Star.
Wrocław came under Prussian
rule, it was a residence for the
Prussian kings. On the side
facing Plac Wolności, only a
Gothic gables of the east façade of the side gallery remains of the
town hall Neo-Renaissance palace built
in 1843–6.
R Church of St Elizabeth The Royal Palace contains
ul. św. Elżbiety. Tel 71 343 16 38. two interesting collections: the
The large tower dominating the Archaeological Museum and
market square is that of the the Ethnographical Museum, the The Baroque monastery that houses
Church of St Elizabeth (Kościół latter illustrating Silesian folk the Ossolineum
św. Elżbiety), one of the largest history and art.
Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island

Ostrów Tumski was once an island in the River Odra, and it is
here that the history of Wrocław began. According to
legend, the city was founded by Duke Vratislav of Bohemia.
In the year 1000 a bishopric was established and the island
grew into a centre of ducal power. After the city moved to
the left bank of the Odra in 1292, the island remained the
base of ecclesiastical authority. In the 19th century the
northern arm of the Odra was filled in and Tumski ceased to
be an island. Tumski Bridge connects it to Piasek Island, a
small sandbank that since the first half of the 12th century
has been the location of a monastery for canons regular.
Church of the Holy Cross
(Kościół św. Krzyża)
This Gothic church is set on
two levels. The upper church is
reached via a portal enclosed
by a double arch.
Church of St
Martin
ŚWIĘ TOKRZYSK A
Tumski Bridge
The present bridge
was built in 1888–
92. The figures of St
MOST MŁ
Ś W.
MAR
Jadwiga and St John CINA
the Baptist guarding it are
by Gustav Grunenberg.
YŃSKI
ŚW, JAD
WIGI
. Church of St Mary
on Piasek (Kościół NMP na Piasku)
Key
The interior of the church was
restored after World War II. Suggested route

WROCŁAW 199
Gate of the Church

of St Giles
The gate of the Church
of St Giles is decorated
with a stone “dumpling”
about which guides tell
a variety of legends.
Church of St Giles 0 metres 100

This tiny late Romanesque church, 0 yards 100
A
built in the 1230s, is the oldest
D
N
surviving church in Wrocław.
LO
H
.
A
Arch-
.
RD diocesan
KA
Museum
A
NK
NI
A MI
KO
NO B.
KA R D.
KA
N Y
AL
DR
TE
KA
P L.
LNA
RA
ED
KAT
Monument to St
John Nepomuk
Archbishop’s Palace . Cathedral of St John the Baptist

The residence of the archbishops of The cathedral presents a combination of
Wrocław was once the chapterhouse. It was styles from different periods. The spires
rebuilt in 1792 in the Neo-Classical style. on its towers were added in 1991.
Exploring Ostrów Tumski and

Piasek Island
Wrocław’s islands, bathed by the River Odra, are peaceful
places for a stroll away from the bustle of the city. The
cathedral, the islands’ principal landmark, preserves its
valuable interior despite having suffered the ravages of World
War II. The Archdiocesan Museum is a rich repository of
Gothic art. A walk through the islands’ many narrow streets
and alleys can be followed by a visit to the Botanical Gardens.
the turn of the 11th century.

The present church dates from
the late 13th century but was The Gothic Church of the Holy Cross, built
rebuilt after World War II on two levels
because it had suffered major
damage. The present building + Archbishop’s Palace
consists of an octagonal nave ul. Katedralna 11. Closed to visitors.
and an unfinished presbytery. The present archbishop’s
residence, once the home of
R Church of the Holy Cross the canons of the cathedral, is
pl. Kościelny. Tel 71 322 25 74. a relatively plain building that
The two-tiered Church of the was reconstructed from a more
Holy Cross (Kościół św. Krzyża) splendid Baroque edifice in
was established in 1288 by 1792. The old bishop’s palace,
Henry IV, the Pious. Building which stands at Ulica Katedralna
Gothic portal of the Church of St Mary continued in the 14th century, 15 nearby, is a fine Neo-Classical
on Piasek and the south tower was not building dating from the
completed until 1484. The lower second half of the 18th century,
R Church of St Mary on church has been used by although three 13th-century
Piasek Uniates since 1956. The upper wings from the earlier
ul. Najświętszej Marii Panny 1. church, a narrow nave with a palace remain.
The rather forbidding bulk transept, was badly damaged
of the Church of St Mary on during World War II, when most R Cathedral of St John
Piasek (Kościół NMP na Piasku) of its interior fittings were lost. the Baptist
dominates Piasek Island. The The tombstone dedicated to pl. Katedralny. Tel 71 322 25 74.
church was constructed for the church’s founder has been Open daily. Tower: Open Apr–Oct:
canons regular in the second half moved to the National Museum, 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 2–4pm Sun.
of the 14th century on the site of but the original tympanum, The Cathedral of St John the
a 12th-century Romanesque depicting the ducal couple Baptist (Archikatedra św. Jana
building whose tympanum is admiring the heavenly Throne Chrzciciela) presents a
built into the wall over the of Grace, can be seen in the combination of styles from
sacristy in the south aisle. north aisle. The 15th-century different periods. The presbytery
The Church of St Mary triptych over the high altar was built some time between
suffered extensive damage comes from a church in Świny. 1244 and 1272; the basilica was
in World War II, but some
impressive features survive.
The asymmetrical tripartite
rib vaulting over the aisles is
unusual. The church also houses
a fine collection of Gothic altars
brought here from other
churches in Silesia.
R Church of St Martin
ul. św. Marcina 7.
The first ecclesiastical building
raised on the site now occupied
by the Church of St Martin
(Kościół św. Marcina) was a
stronghold chapel erected at Ulica Katedralna, with the Cathedral of St John the Baptist
WROCŁAW 201
The Bridges of Wrocław

Situated on the River Odra, the city of Wrocław boasts more than
100 bridges crossing numerous streams, canals and inlets. The
oldest is the Piasek Island bridge, dating from 1845. The best known
is Grunwaldzki Suspension Bridge, dating from 1908–10, which
under German rule was named the Kaiserbrücke.
Portal of the Cathedral of St John the

Baptist on Ostrów Tumski Grunwaldzki Suspension Bridge
built in the first half of the

14th century and the west contains an important and in Poland. They were
tower was completed even growing collection of Silesian established in 1811 by two
later. Three-quarters of the religious art going back to the professors from the University
cathedral were destroyed in Gothic period. In addition to of Silesia in Katowice, and after
World War II, and most of the altars and sculptures, it has on being totally destroyed in
present building is the result of display one of the earliest World War II were reverently
post-war reconstruction. The cabinets in the world, dating re-created. The gardens’ central
east end, with its interesting from 1455. area contains picturesque
chapels accessible from the ponds fashioned from what
presbytery, survives in its was an arm of the River Odra
original form. The Chapel of when Ostrów Tumski was still
St Elizabeth in the south aisle an island. There are also palms,
was built in the Roman Baroque an alpine garden, cactuses,
style by Giacomo Scianzi in fountains, bridges and a
1680. The interior of the chapel 19th-century model of the
is also the work of Italian artists: geology of the Silesian town
the tomb of Cardinal Frederyk, of Wałbrzych. The gardens
a Hessian landowner whose have 7,000 plant species and a
burial chapel this became, Archdiocesan Museum on Ostrów Tumski bust of the Swedish botanist
is by Domenico Guidi. The Carolus Linnaeus (1708–78),
altar is by Ercole Ferrata. O Botanical Gardens dating from 1871, stands
The presbytery contains ul. H. Sienkiewicza 23. Tel 71 322 59 among the greenery. A branch
a late Gothic polyptych of 57. Open Apr–Nov: 8am–6pm daily of the gardens, which has an
1522, which was brought (May–Aug: to 8pm). & extensive arboretum, has
from Lubin, and Baroque choir Wrocław boasts the most been established in Wojsławice,
stalls from a church of the attractive botanical gardens near Niemcza.
Premonstratensian order.
E Archdiocesan Museum
ul. Kanonia 12. Tel 71 322 17 55.
Open 9am–3pm Tue–Sat.
The Archdiocesan Museum
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)
stands among a group of
buildings dating from three
historical periods. The earliest
is the Gothic-Renaissance
chapterhouse built in 1519–27,
which has fine portals and
arcades. The later Baroque
chapterhouse was completed in
1756. The purpose-built Neo-
Gothic museum, libraries and
archives of the archdiocese
were built in 1896. The museum The Botanical Gardens on Ostrów Tumski
Around Central Wrocław photography. The zoo, founded

in 1865, is situated above the
Many places of interest lie within walking distance of River Odra opposite Szczytnicki
central Wrocław. A relaxing day can be spent at the zoo, Park. While walking among the
the museums of natural history, geology and mineralogy animal paddocks, it is worth
and in Szczytnicki Park. The Jewish cemetery gives a taking a look at the old
pavilions, which feature a
fascinating insight into Poland’s past. There are also several variety of architectural styles.
notable 20th-century buildings, such as the People’s Hall
and the 1920s Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy housing estate. P People’s Hall
ul. Wystawowa 1. Tel 71 347 51 00.
Open 9am–4pm, except during trade
fairs and sports events. &
The People’s Hall (Hala Ludowa),
originally known as the Century
Hall, was intended to be the
centrepiece of an exhibition
commemorating the centenary
of the coalition’s victory over
Napoleon at Lipsk. It was
designed by Max Berg and built
in 1911–13. At the time of its
construction, it was regarded
as one of the finest modern
buildings in Europe. The centre
Some of the exhibits in the Mineralogy Museum of the hall is covered by a
reinforced concrete dome with
E Geology and Mineralogy Zoological Museum, which was a diameter of 65 m (200 ft). It is
Museums set up in 1820. Since 1904 the lit by a sophisticated method –
ul. Cybulskiego 30. Geology Museum: exhibits have been displayed the openwork design inside the
Tel 71 375 93 27. Open 9am–3pm in a purpose-built wing of this stepped tambour consists of
Mon, Wed & Fri; 9am–5pm Tue & Thu; Art Nouveau building. rows of windows that can be
10am–3pm Sat. Mineralogy Museum: shaded or uncovered as
Tel 71 375 92 06. Open 10am–3:30pm O Zoo required. The auditorium can
Mon–Fri; Jul & Aug: by appt (71 375 26 ul. Wróblewskiego. Tel 71 348 30 24. accommodate up to 5,000
68). 8 Open 9am–5pm daily (summer: to people. The hall has functioned
A vast building in a style 6pm, to 7pm Sat & Sun). ∑ zoo. as a concert hall and theatre,
typical of the German Third wrocław.pl and today is used for sports
Reich houses two interesting Wrocław has one of the largest events and trade fairs. Around
museums run by the University and best laid-out zoos in the hall are some of the
of Wrocław. The Geology Poland, thanks to its long- pavilions of the Historical
Museum contains a wealth standing directors Hanna and Exhibition. It is also worth
of rocks and fossils from Antoni Gucwińscy, who for walking through the old
different geological eras, many years presented a TV exhibition grounds and
while the Mineralogy Museum programme on animal seeing the oval pond, which
delights visitors with colourful
displays of minerals collected
from all over the world.
E Natural History Museum

ul. Sienkiewicza 21. Tel 71 375 41 45.
Open 9am–3pm Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ muzeum-
przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl
This museum, which is very
popular with children, has a
substantial collection of animals
and plants from all continents.
The collections of tropical
butterflies, shells and mammal
skeletons are the largest in
Poland. Some date back to the
18th century, and formed the
beginnings of the University’s Ostrich in a paddock at Wrocław Zoo
WROCŁAW 203
The former Century Hall designed by Max Berg
is surrounded by shady pergolas. The footbridges and pathways landmark in the development
A steel needle, which is 96 m that run among the pavilions of residential architecture in
(316 ft) in height and was made and plants make a charming the 1920s. The houses were
by Stanisław Hempel, stands setting for a leisurely walk. examples of different
outside the main entrance. It was Look out for the rose garden residential buildings designed
erected here in 1948. The hall is a and a small 12th-century for the Exhibition of Living
UNESCO World Heritage Site. wooden church that was and Working Space organized
brought over from Stare by the Deutscher Werkbund
Y Szczytnicki Park Koźle and reconstructed. movement in 1929. Many
North of the exhibition area prominent German architects
is an extensive park whose took part in the project. The
history dates back to the most impressive building is
18th century. It was originally an apartment block (at Ulica
the site of the residence of Kopernika 9) designed by
Duke Friedrich Ludwig von Hans Scharoun, architect
Hohenlohe-Ingelfingen, but of several buildings in Berlin,
that building was destroyed including the National Library
during the Napoleonic Wars and the Berlin Philharmonic
(1799–1815), after which the Orchestra’s Concert Hall.
area was remodelled as a Modern architecture
landscaped park. House designed by Hans Scharoun on the enthusiasts should also visit
One of Szczytnicki Park’s Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy housing estate Sępolno, which was built in
distinctive features is its 1924–8 and is a fine example
delightful Japanese garden, P Mieszkanie i Miejsce of a garden city.
which has been painstakingly Pracy Housing Estate
restored with the help of The Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Z Jewish Cemetery
Japanese gardening experts. housing estate is a unique ul. Ślężna 37/39. Tel 71 791
59 03. Open 8am–dusk daily
(to 6pm summer). 8 until noon.
Closed Jewish holidays.
This is one of the very few
Jewish cemeteries in Poland
that escaped destruction at
the hands of the Nazis during
World War II. Originally opened
in 1856, it was the burial place
of many celebrated citizens
of Wrocław, including the
socialist politician Ferdinand
Lassalle, the painter Clara
Sachs and the parents of
Sister Theresa Benedicta of
the Cross, who was born in
Japanese garden in Szczytnicki Park Wrocław as Edith Stein.
1687–1702. Prominent features Unfortunately, the palace’s

of the Baroque interior are the once superb art collection
high altar, with The Birth of Christ and library were destroyed
in the Vision of St Bernard of just after World War II. Today
Clairvaux by Michael Willmann, the castle, despite not being
and the large, highly orna- yet wholly reconstructed,
mented choir stalls. A plague operates as a hotel. It
column outside the church stands in an attractive
depicts the four archangels. overgrown park.
Other points of interest are
the extensive monastery and
the scenic park laid out at the
j Kłodzko Valley
rear of the monastery in the See pp206–7.
early 18th century. A summer-
house stands in the park.
h Kamieniec
Ząbkowicki
Road map B5. * 4,700. £ @
Façade of the Cistercian church in The small town of Kamieniec

Henryków Ząbkowicki is dominated by
the 14th-century Gothic church
g Henryków and Baroque monastery of its
Road map C5. * 1,400. £ @
Cistercian abbey, which was
Cistercian Church: pl. Cystersów 1. founded in 1272.
Tel 74 810 51 35. Open Jul & Aug: There is also a Neo-Gothic
daily; May, Jun, Sep: Sat & Sun. 8 castle, perched on a hill but
well worth the effort of a climb
The small town of Henryków is to visit. It was commissioned
known for its Cistercian church, by Marianna Orańska in the Gothic town walls and tower
founded in 1227 by Henryk the 1870s, and after her death was in Paczków
Bearded. A series of allotments completed for her son, Duke
surrounding the abbey separate Albrecht of Prussia. The architect k Paczków
the church and monastery from was Karl Friedrich Schinkel. A Road map C5. * 8,000. £ @
the street, so that access to the massive residence with large n Wojska Polskiego 23 (77 541 86
church is by way of a series of circular external towers and 61). ∑ paczkow.pl
gates. The church, originally in two internal piazzas, the castle
the Gothic style, was rebuilt in has an ideal symmetry. Its Completely surrounded by a
the early 14th century and magnificent ballroom has palm medieval wall set with towers
remodelled in the Baroque style vaulting supported on a single and gates, Paczków has been
by Matthias Kirchberger in central basalt column. dubbed the “Carcassone of
Neo-Gothic castle in Kamieniec Ząbkowicki

SILESIA 205
Silesia” after the medieval Church of Saints Peter and

walled city in southwest Paul (Św. Piotra i Pawla) and
France. Paczków was founded the Jesuit Church of the
in 1254, and the old town Assumption (Wniebowzięcia
retains its original street layout. NMP). Also of interest are the
It contains many distinctive bishop’s palace and manor,
town houses, a Neo-Classical which stand beside a group of
town hall and the Church of Jesuit buildings. The palace
St John (Kościół św. Jana), an houses a local history museum.
originally Gothic church that
was rebuilt in the Renaissance R Basilica of Saints James
style in 1529–36 and fortified and Agnieszka
for defensive purposes. pl. Katedralny 7. Tel 77 433 25 05.
A number of side chapels
containing the tombs of
l Otmuchów bishops flank the lofty nave
Road map C5. * 5,000. £ @ of this 14th–15th-century
church (Kościół św. Jakuba
Otmuchów has a picturesque i św. Agnieszki). The high altar
setting between two lakes, only survived World War II
Lake Głębinowskie and Lake The Beautiful Well in Nysa, with Baroque because it was removed and
Otmuchówskie. In spring and wrought ironwork hidden in the mountains.
summer the town is filled with
flowers, partly as the result of z Nysa R Church of Saints Peter
the spring flower festival that is Road map: C5. * 45,300. £ @
and Paul
held here. n ul. Piastowska 19 (77 433 49 71). ul. św. Piotra. Tel 77 448 46 70.
From the 14th century until ∑ nysa.eu This late Baroque church (Kościół
1810, Otmuchów belonged to św. Piotra i Pawła) was built by
the bishops of Wrocław. Its Nysa, founded in 1223, was Michael Klein and Felix Anton
historic buildings are all in once the capital of the dukes Hammerschmidt in 1719–27
close proximity around the of Wrocław and the see of the for the Canons Regular of the
sloping Market Square. On the duchy of Nysa (Niesse). In the Holy Sepulchre. Its original
lower side is the Renaissance 16th and 17th centuries it furnishings are intact. Entry is
town hall, built in 1538, with a became the residence of the via the office of the seminary
later tower. On the upper side Catholic bishops of Wrocław, situated in the monastery.
is the Baroque parish church who were driven there from
of 1690–6, and the Palace of Ostrów Tumski during the R Church of the Assumption
the Bishops of Wrocław. The Reformation. After 1742 the pl. Solny. Open daily.
adjacent palace, known as the Prussians enclosed the town Jesuits were brought to Nysa
Lower Castle, was the bishops’ with ramparts. Despite suffering by Bishop Karol Habsburg.
secondary residence. massive destruction during This Baroque Jesuit church
World War II, Nysa (Kościół Wniebowzięcia NMP),
retains a number built in 1688–92, has a
of interesting magnificent twin-towered
buildings. The façade. The interior features
town centre is paintings by Karl Dankwart. It
dominated by the is one of a group of buildings
Gothic Basilica of known collectively as the
Saints James and Carolinum College.
Agnieszka (Basilica
św Jakuba i E Town Museum
Agnieszki), with pl. Bpa Jarosława 11. Tel 77 433 20 83.
a separate belfry Open 9am–3pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3pm
dating from the Sat & Sun. & (free Wed). ∑
early 16th century. muzeum.nysa.pl
The well beside it, The Town Museum is located
covered with in the former bishop’s palace,
unusual wrought which dates from 1660–80. It
ironwork, is known contains a fine collection of
as the Beautiful European painting, including
Well and dates pictures from the studios of
from 1686. Of Nysa’s Lucas Cranach the Elder
many churches, (1472–1553) and Hugo van
Renaissance town hall in Otmuchów the finest are the der Goes (c.1440–82).
j Kłodzko Valley 2 Góry Stołowe

The exceptionally beautiful Kłodzko Valley The Table
Mountains are an
is renowned for its architecture and spas as unusual geological
well as for its scenery. A border region for phenomenon –
many centuries, it is dotted with castles. the strange shapes
Many dignitaries, attracted by its favourable of the sandstone
and marl hills were
climate and its mineral springs, built splendid created by erosion.
residences here. The area has several well- At Szczeliniec
equipped hiking trails, particularly on Góry Wielki and Błędne
Stołowe (Table Mountains), and a number Skały, fissures form
natural mazes.
of ski resorts.
1 Wambierzyce
The village is an ancient place of pilgrimage. The
Pilgrimage Church dates from 1695–1710, although
its oval nave was built in 1715–20. In the village and
nearby hills are more than 130 Stations of the Cross.
3 Kudowa Zdrój
Built in 1776, the Chapel of Skulls
(Kaplica czaszek) near Kudowa
Zdrój contains 3,000 skulls and • Kudowa
other bones of victims of the
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) Nachod Lewin Kłodzki Szczytna
• J
and ensuing plagues. •
4 Duszniki Zdrój
Features of interest in
this health spa are the •
Baroque pulpit in the Stara

Church of Saints Peter Łomnica
and Paul (Kościół św.
Piotra i Pawła), by
Michael Kössler, and
the Museum of the
Paper Industry.
Tips for Drivers

Length of trail: 216 km
(135 miles).
Stopping-off points:
Restaurants are easy to find in
towns such as Kudowa Zdrój,
Lądek Zdrój, Kłodzko or
Bystrzyca Kłodzka.
Other attractions: Bear’s Cave
at Jaskinia Niedźwiedzia,
near Kletno; pre-booking Tel 74
814 12 50. Underground walk in 5 Polanica Zdrój
Kłodzko Open Feb–Apr, Founded in the early
Sep–Nov: 10am–5:40pm; 19th century, this spa
May–Aug: 9am–4:40pm. is considered to be the
Closed Mon. & most attractive in the
whole Kłodzko Valley.

SILESIA 207
0 Lądek Zdrój
This picturesque resort
has luxurious mineral
baths and a historic
market square. For the
energetic, the ruins of
q Kłodzko Karpień Castle are within
The large 18th-century castle commands walking distance.
a panoramic view over the town. There is
also a Gothic bridge with Baroque carving
and an underground passage. 8 Międzygórze
This delightful
resort at the foot
9 Kletno of the Śnieżnik
Bear’s Cave, the largest in the Sudeten massif in the
range, has 3 km (2 miles) of Wilczka River
subterranean passages on four Valley is an ideal
different levels with stalactites and starting point for
stalagmites in a variety of shapes. mountain hiking.
Wrocław
7 Bystrzyca Kłodzka
The town’s Museum of
Fire-Making is devoted
to the manufacture of
matches and cigarette
lighters. The Gothic
church that towers
over the old town has
an unusual double-
nave interior.
Bia
ła
Ląd
eck
a
•
Stronie Śl.
a
odzk
a Kł
Nys
Domaszków
•
J
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
6 Gorzanów
Key The Renaissance-Baroque
Hiking path palace in Gorzanów dates from
the 16th century. Its present
Other route
form is the result of extensions
carried out in the 17th century.

x Opole c Góra Świętej
Road map C5. * 120,000. £ @ Anny

n 77 451 19 87. _ Festival of Polish Road map C5. £ Leśnica.
Song (Jun). ∑ opole.pl ∑ swanna.pl
The origins of Opole, on the Góra Świętej Anny is a place of

River Odra, go back to the 8th pilgrimage for Catholics and a
century. Once the seat of the centre of commemoration of
Piast duchy, from 1327 it was the Silesian uprisings of 1919–
ruled by Bohemia, from 1526 21. The great Pilgrimage Church
by Austria, and from 1742 by of St Anne was built here by the
Prussia. Although it has been Gaschin-Gaszyński family in the
part of Poland only since 1945, second half of the 1600s. The Romanesque Rotunda of St Nicholas
it has always had a sizeable Stations of the Cross that make in Cieszyn
Polish population. The town hall up the 18th-century Calvary are
was built in 1936 in imitation of placed around the church and v Cieszyn
the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. monastery. The Calvary draws Road map D6. * 36,000. £
Other notable buildings include large numbers of pilgrims. @ n 33 479 42 49. _ Bez Granic
the Cathedral of the Holy During the Third Silesian Theatre Festival (Jun); Viva il Canto
Cross, a Gothic church with a Uprising in May and June 1921, Festival of Vocal Music (Oct);
Baroque interior, and the late two major battles were fought in Cieszyńska Jazz Autumn Festival
Gothic Franciscan church, the mountains near Góra Świętej (Nov). ∑ cieszyn.pl
containing the tombs of the Anny. They are commemorated
dukes of Opole. On Pasieka by a commanding monument This delightful town on the
Island, near the park’s carved by Xawery Dunikowski in Czech–Polish border was
amphitheatre, stands the Piast 1955 on the mountainside above founded in the 9th century.
Tower, all that remains of the a gigantic amphitheatre built in From the 13th to 17th centuries
Gothic ducal castle. 1930–34. A museum contains it was the capital of a Silesian
records relating to the uprising. duchy and in 1653 fell under
E Regional Museum Habsburg rule. On a hill where
ul. św Wojciecha 13. Tel 77 453 66 77. E Museum of the Uprising a castle once stood is the
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Góra Świętej Anny. Tel 77 461 54 66. 11th-century Romanesque
Sat & Sun (Jul–Sep: to 6pm Fri). & # 9am–3pm Tue–Fri, 10am– Rotunda of St Nicholas
(free Sat). 7 4pm Sat & Sun. & (free Sat). (Rotunda św. Mikołaja), the Piast
Tower, in the Gothic style, and a
hunting palace built by Karol
Habsburg in 1838.
The Market Square has some
fine town houses and a Neo-
Classical town hall. Cieszyn also
has several churches, most
importantly the Protestant
Church of Grace (Kościół Łaski),
of 1709.
The town is well kept, with
a number of pedestrianized
streets. Czech as well as Polish
is heard in its homely pubs,
bars and restaurants.
b Pszczyna
Road map D5. * 26,000. £ @
n Brama Wybrańców (32 212 99 99).
∑ pszczyna.info.pl
Pszczyna, on the edge of the

ancient Pszczyna Forest, is
named after a residence that was
built within the walls of a Gothic
castle in the area. The building,
situated next to the forest and its
wildlife, was used as a hunting
The town hall in the Market Square in Opole lodge for many centuries. From
The interior of the Cathedral of St John the Baptist in Wrocław
SILESIA 211
1846 Pszczyna was ruled by the

Hochbergs of Książ (see p191).
The palace was rebuilt for them
in 1870–76 in the French Neo-
Renaissance style.
Today the palace houses a
museum with an interesting
and well-stocked armoury, a
collection of hunting trophies
and a fine array of period
furniture. The centrepiece of the
palace is the extraordinary Hall
of Mirrors, which contains two
vast mirrors, each with a surface
area of some 14 sq m (150 sq ft).
Głiwice, one of 14 towns comprising the Upper Silesian Industrial Region
E Palace Museum
ul. Brama Wybrańców 1. Tel 32 210 30 World War I and following E Museum of Silesia
37. Open Jan–Mar & Nov–mid-Dec: the three Silesian uprisings of Katowice, ul. Korfantego 3.
Tue–Sun; Apr–Oct: daily. For opening 1919–21, almost the entire Tel 32 779 93 00. Open 10am–
hours, please consult the website. region was incorporated into 5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun.
Poland. Although the towns, ∑ muzeumslaskie.pl
Closed 1 and 3 May, Easter, Corpus
Christi, 1 and 11 Nov, 15–31 Dec. & with their mines, steelworks Among the displays at
(free on Mon Apr–Oct; Tue Nov–Mar). and power stations, seem the Silesian Museum is
∑ zamek-pszczyna.pl unappealing, the region is of a varied collection of 19th
interest to tourists. Katowice, and 20th-century Polish
the capital, has particularly painting.
interesting buildings dating
from the interwar years. In E Coal Museum
Kościusz Park there is a wooden Będzin, ul. Świerczewskiego 15.
church from 1510 that was Tel 32 267 47 31. Castle and Palace
moved here from Syryna, a Open 8am–4pm Tue, Thu & Fri;
Silesian village, as well as the 9am–5pm Wed, Sat & Sun (Jul & Aug:
Archdiocesan Museum and 10am–6pm Tue–Sun). ∑ muzeum.
Museum of Silesia. The bedzin.pl
museum in Bytom has some Będzin Castle was founded
interesting works of art. In by Kazimierz the Great.
Chorzów the main attraction is Constructed from roughly
a park with a funfair. The Upper hewn boulders, it was erected
Silesian Ethnographic Park in stages between 1250 and
has a display of the traditional 1350. In 1834 it was restored
buildings of Upper Silesia. in the romantic Neo-Gothic
Portrait of Princess Daisy in the Palace tradition by Franciszek Maria
E Archdiocesan Museum Lanci. The castle now houses
Museum in Pszczyna
Katowice, ul. Jordana 39. Tel 519 the fascinating
546 023. Open 2–6pm Tue & Thu; Coal Museum.
11am–3pm Sat. Another
n Upper Silesian
The museum has a collection branch of
Industrial Region of ecclesiastical art, the museum
Road map D5. £ @ ~ Katowice. the most outstanding is to be
piece being Head of found in the
The vast conurbation of a Monk by José de Mieroszewski
14 towns that make up the Ribera (1591–1652). Palace.
Upper Silesian Industrial
Region (Górnośląski Okręg
Przemysłowy) was created
by the coal-mining industry,
which has been active in the
area since the 18th century.
The conurbation’s hardworking
inhabitants have their own
unique dialect, which is
spoken especially by the
older generation. After Będzin Castle, now the home of the Coal Museum
WIELKOPOLSKA
GREATER POLAND
Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) is the cradle of Polish
statehood. It was here in the mid-10th century that the
Polonians, the strongest of the Polish tribes, set up an
enduring state structure. It was also in this region that the Piast
dynasty, the first Polish dynasty, emerged to rule the country in
the 10th century. The first two capitals of Poland, Gniezno and
Poznań, lie in Wielkopolska.
During the Thirty Years’ War of 1618–48, part of Wielkopolska and almost the entire
the region of Wielkopolska was settled region as it had been before the Partitions
by large numbers of dissenting Germans, was reincorporated into the Polish state.
particularly from neighbouring Silesia. The inhabitants of Wielkopolska have a
The Protestant faith of the incomers set long-standing reputation for thrift and
them apart from the existing inhabitants, orderliness. The years of Soviet domination
who were Catholics. that followed World War II strained these
During the Partitions of Poland, qualities to the limit, although the local
Wielkopolska was divided. Under the state-owned farms worked more
terms of the Congress of Vienna of 1815, efficiently than those in other parts of
the larger western part fell under Prussian the country and many palaces and
rule, and the smaller eastern part came country mansions have survived in better
under Russian control. In the second half condition than was the case elsewhere.
of the 19th century the Prussian part of Poznań, the capital of Wielkopolska,
Wielkopolska was subjected to repeated abounds in historic buildings, as do other
but unsuccessful campaigns of towns in the region. Almost every town,
Germanization. Polish activists fought however small, contains something of
back in the courts and laid the economic interest. Wielkopolska maintains its identity:
foundations for the Polish section of to this day the customs preserved in many
the population. At the end of 1918, of the region’s towns and villages are
insurrection broke out in the western distinct from those in other parts of Poland.
Old windmills in a typical Wielkopolska setting

The colourful façades of the 16th-century merchants’ houses lining Poznań’s Old Market Square
Exploring Wielkopolska
Wielkopolska’s extensive territory is mainly low-lying, but the Chojnice
landscape is far from monotonous. In the northern part of the

region is a hilly area, with vast forests and lakes, that is ideal
country for a walking or cycling holiday. Besides Poznań, the
Jastrowie
regional capital, other towns of interest include Gniezno, seat
Złotów
of an archbishopric and the first capital of Poland. In the area
around Gniezno traces of the rise of Polish statehood can
be seen on Ostrów Lednicki, in Strzelno, and in
Kruszwica on Lake Gopło. Piła Wyrzysk
Trzcianka
Chodzież
Note ć
Drezdenko Krzyż Czarnków
Wielkopolski
Wągrowiec
Szczecin
Gorzów Wlkp.
WIELKOPOLSKIE
Międzychód Oborniki
Skwierzyna Szamotuły OSTRÓW
Pniewy LEDNICKI
Międzyrzecz POZNAŃ
Lwówek
Rzepin GUŁTOWY
ŁAGÓW
Słubice Nowy Tomyśl KÓRNIK
KOSZUTY
Świebodzin Grodzisk
Wielkopolski ROGALIN
Środa
Wlkp.
Zaniemyśl
Wolsztyn
Getting Around
Kościan
Wielkopolska is situated on main transport routes
between eastern and western Europe. The efficient
express train service from Berlin to Poznań takes
just under 3 hours, and the journey from Warsaw LESZNO Gostyń
by express train also takes about 3 hours. All the RYDZYNA

larger towns of the region have rail connections,
while smaller ones can be reached by bus. Roads Krotoszyn
are generally good, although Poznań suffers from
Rawicz
almost permanent traffic jams. Poznań can also
be reached by air, although the number of Wrocław
international connections is limited.
Sights at a Glance
1 Łagów t Ląd
2 Leszno y Śmiełów
3 Rydzyna u Gołuchów
4 Rogalin pp218–19 i Kalisz
5 Poznań pp220–25 o Antonin
6 Kórnik p Piotrków Trybunalski
7 Koszuty a Sulejów
8 Gułtowy s Łódź pp234–5
9 Czerniejewo d Łęczyca
0 Ostrów Lednicki
q Gniezno pp228–9 Tours
w Biskupin r Romanesque
Skansen on Lake Lednicki e Lubostroń Architecture Tour
W I E L K O P O L S K A  G R E AT E R P O L A N D  215
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Bydgoszcz The Raczyński Library in Poznań
LUBOSTROŃ Toruń
Żnin
Inowrocław
BISKUPIN Key
ROMANESQUE Motorway
Vistu
Strzelno ARCHITECTURE TOUR la
Motorway under construction
Lake Main road
GNIEZNO Gopło Kowal
Płock
Minor road
Lubień Kujawski
CZERNIEJEWO Main railway
Września Minor railway

Słupca International border
Kłodawa
Konin Kutno Regional border
Ciążeń
LĄD
Koło
ŚMIEŁÓW Rychwał
ŁĘCZYCA
Tum
Jarocin Ozorków
r ta
Zgierz
Wa
GOŁUCHÓW
Dobryczy Aleksandrów ŁÓDŹ
Łódzki
KALISZ
Warta Warsaw
Ostrów
ŁÓDZKIE
Wielkopolski
Sieradz Tuszyn
Łask
ANTONIN
Ostrzeszów Złoczew PIOTRKÓW
Opoczno
TRYBUNALSKI
SULEJÓW
Kępno
Wieluń
Opole Kielce
Radomsko
Częstochowa
Façade of Kórnik Castle

1 Łagów
Road map B3. * 1,600. £ @ n
68 341 20 62 (Jun–Sep). _ Lubuskie
Film Festival (Jun). ∑ lagow.pl
Łagów, situated in woodland

between lakes Łagów and
Ciecz, is known for its
film festival.
The tower of the 14th-
century castle built by the
Knights Hospitallers affords
a magnificent view of the Palace in Rydzyna, former seat of the Sułkowski family
surrounding countryside, as
does the 19th-century tower buildings dates from earlier 3 Rydzyna
of the Neo-Classical Church of than the 18th century. The
St John the Baptist (Kościoł św. Baroque town hall was built Road map B4. * 2,700. @ £
∑ rydzyna.pl
Jan Chrzciciela), dating from just after the fire to a design
1726. Around the town are also by Pompeo Ferrari. Beside the
remains of the 15th-century market square is the distinctive This small town is dominated
town walls, with their gate Baroque parish church, built by by the palace, built in the
towers, the Polish Gate and Jan Catenaci at the turn of the 15th century. Its present late
Marchian Gate. 18th century. It has a delightful Baroque appearance dates
façade and interior with from after 1737; further
Environs Baroque altars and tombs. building work was carried
Łagów Nature Park, near the Ferrari also designed the out by Karl Martin Frantz in
town, contains protected areas former Lutheran Church of 1742, when paintings by
of woodland and wild flowers. the Holy Cross (Kościoł Wilhelm Neunhertz were
About 16 km (10 miles) east of luterański św. Krzyża), which added to the ballroom ceiling.
the town are the remains of a was built after 1707. The ballroom was destroyed
system of fortifications erected The Regional Museum’s by fire in 1945.
by the Germans just before finest collection is in the Polish The ceiling was painted in
World War II. Its surviving Portrait Gallery, and features honour of the palace’s owner,
corridors and bunkers are now 18th-century coffin portraits Prince Józef A. Sułkowski. A
inhabited by thousands of bats. of the Bohemian Brethren. member of a noble family of
relatively low rank, he was
E Regional Museum catapulted to success at the
2 Leszno pl. Metziga 17. Tel 65 529 61 court of August III, but fell
Road map B4. * 64,500. £ @ 40. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue, from the king’s favour in
n ul. Słowiańska 24 (65 529 82 34). 9am–2:30pm Wed–Fri, 1738 and was replaced by
_ Days of Leszno (May); Summer of 10am–2pm Sat, 2–6pm Henryk Brühl. The palace
Folklore (Aug). ∑ leszno.pl Sun. & (free on Tue). remained in the possession
Judaic section: ul.
of the Sułkowskis into the
Narutowicza 31. Tel 65
In the 17th century Leszno gave early 20th century, when
529 61 43. Open
asylum to religious dissidents 9am–3pm Tue & Thu,
it was sold to the Prussian
fleeing the ravages of the 9am–2pm Wed & Fri, rulers. It is now a hotel.
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) in 10am–2pm first Sun The Market Square is lined
Silesia. Apart from Lutheran of the month. Closed with Baroque houses, the
Protestants, they included Day after public town hall and two Baroque
a group known as the holiday. & (free 1st churches: the Parish Church
Bohemian Brethren, Sun each month). of St Stanisław (Kościoł św.
who founded the Arian Stanisława) designed by Karl
Academy that gained Martin Frantz and Ignacy Graff
renown across in 1746–51, and the Protestant
Europe. One of its church, dating from 1779–83,
members was Jan also by Graff.
Amos Komeński
(Commenius), a
prominent philosopher
4 Rogalin
of the Reformation. See pp218–19.
The town was
destroyed by fire in
1707, so that none 5 Poznań
of its monumental Leszno’s Baroque town hall See pp220–25.

an arboretum with many rare

species of trees, and a walk
here is a relaxing way to round
off a visit.
P Kórnik Library
ul. Zamkowa 5. Tel 61 817 00 81
or 817 19 30. Open 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols,
Easter, 1 Sep, Dec–Feb.
∑ bkpan.poznan.pl
Environs
There are several holiday
villages scattered along the
shores of lakes Kórnik and
Bniń, to the south of Kórnik.
The best known of them is
Zaniemyśl, which boasts
both a bathing beach and
a holiday camp among its
attractions. On Edward Island
there is a 19th-century wooden
A room with coffered ceiling and ornate floor in Kórnik Castle pavilion built in the style of a
Swiss chalet.
6 Kórnik Czartoryski Palace in Puławy
Road map C3. * 7,200. £ @ (see p125). In order to acquire
7 Koszuty
∑ kornik.pl the library at Puławy, Tytus
Działyński persuaded his son Road map C3. * 400. £ @
Set on an island and Jan to marry Izabella, heiress
surrounded by a landscaped to the Czartoryski fortune. In an enchanting 18th-
park, Kórnik Castle is one of The castle has an extensive century country house, set
the most picturesque library and a museum. in a landscaped garden, the
castles in Poland. Its The museum’s interior of a Wielkopolska
present appearance collections include landowner’s mansion has been
dates from the 19th a display of 16th reconstructed and is now the
century, when it was to 19th century Środa Land Museum.
rebuilt in the English Polish and foreign
Neo-Gothic style by paintings, as well E Środa Land Museum
Karl Friedrich Schinkel. as sculpture, drawings Tel 61 285 10 23. Open 9am–3pm
There have also been and an intriguing array Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun.
some subsequent of militaria, including
alterations. Suit of armour, Kórnik a complete suit of Environs
The castle’s original Castle Museum armour. The Kórnik The town of Środa
interior survives: the Library contains Wielkopolska, which is situated
Moorish Hall is decorated in manuscripts of Polish poets’ just 6 km (4 miles) east of
the style of the Alhambra works and a substantial Koszuty, has an interesting
Palace in southern Spain and collection of prints and maps. Gothic collegiate church dating
in the dining room the ceiling There is also a park that contains from the 15th to 16th centuries.
is covered with the coats of
arms of all the Polish knights
who fought at the Battle of
Grunwald (1410). An inscription
in Turkish on the ceiling of
one hall is an expression of
thanks to Turkey, which refused
to recognize the Partitions
of Poland. The castle also
contains a collection of 18th-
and 19th-century porcelain
and other pieces.
The castle became the
repository of the art treasures
that were once kept at Country house in Koszuty dating from the 18th century
4 Raczyński Palace, Rogalin

Raczyński Palace, in the village of Rogalin, is one
of the most magnificent buildings in Wielkopolska.
It was begun in around 1770 for Kazimierz
Raczyński, Palatine of Wielkopolska and Grand
Marshal of the Crown. It was designed in the
Baroque style, but during construction the
architectural ornamentation was abandoned.
The imposing main building, however, retains its
late Baroque solidity. In 1782–3 curving colonnades
were added and complemented by annexes in the
classic Palladian style. A drawing room and grand
staircase designed by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer
were added in 1788–9.
French Garden
The French
garden at the
palace’s rear is
elevated at one
end to provide
a view of the
grounds.
. Art Gallery
A pavilion built in
1909–12 contains
a collection of
European and Polish
paintings dating from
about 1850 to the
early 20th century,
including works by
Jacek Malczewski
and Jan Matejko.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
KEY
1 The entrance courtyard is

approached by a tree-lined drive
and flanked by coach houses and
stables. It also has riding stables
on the northeast side.
2 Riding school
. Palace
3 Stable The main building of the late Baroque palace was given a
4 Staff cottages more fashionable Neo-Classical character by the addition
of curving colonnades.
Świątniki nad Wartą, ul.
Arciszewskiego 2. Road map C3.
Palace Museum: Tel 61 813 80 30.
Open call for opening times. &
∑ mnp.art.pl
The Oaks of Rogalin

Rogalin park contains one of
the largest protected oak
woodlands in Europe. The
three largest trees stand in
the meadow off the park’s
main avenue.
Bridge and Gateway

A three-arched bridge and a wrought-iron
gateway open onto the entrance courtyard.
Mausoleum Chapel
Designed in the style of a classical
temple and built in 1817–20, the
The Coach House mausoleum chapel contains the
Built with the stables in around 1801, tombs of prominent members of
the coach house was commissioned the Raczyński family.
by Filip Raczyński.
5 Poznań Some of the houses in the Old

Market Square were destroyed
Poznań is the capital of Wielkopolska and its largest city. during the battles for Poznań
A stronghold by the name of Polan stood here in the in 1945, and were rebuilt after
8th century, and in the 10th century it was the capital of World War II, but others escaped
serious damage. They include
the emerging Polish state. In 968 it became the seat of Mielżyński Palace, which dates
the first bishopric in Poland. Poznań has many historic from 1796–8, and Działyński
buildings, the finest of which are the cathedral and those Palace, both in the Neo-
in the old town. A visit to the late 19th-century quarter is Classical style.
also rewarding. Today Poznań is Poland’s second financial
centre after Warsaw and a major centre of commerce.
Annual trade fairs attended by producers and traders
from all over the world have been held here since 1921.
G
EN
. T
K . KUT
I
SZ RZEBY
P Old Market Square C
IU
FA
ZE
Ś
Cemetery KSI ĘCI A
The Old Market Square
O
K JÓ
T.
(Stary Rynek) is the heart of
the old town. It is surrounded Carmelite Church of
by town houses with colourful Monastery St Adalbert
façades, among which stands Hill of

St Adalbert
the Renaissance town hall. The
ground floors of the buildings
DZIAŁO A
ŚW
around the square are filled WO
.W
LNI
CA
OJ
mainly by banks, cafés
CI
EC
and restaurants, and
H
A
GO
SK
Ń
the streets leading
SKIE
ŁY
M PLAC
off the square
W
WIELKOPOLSKI
A L . K . M A R C I N KO
PLAC
Interior of the former Dominican Church contain CYRYLA
A
TEGO
23 LU
NIECK
RATAJSKIEGO
A
Przemysław
WSK
of the Heart of Jesus elegant shops. Castle
WRO
ŻYDO
From spring to Działyński
3
R Church of the Heart autumn the Palace

MA
Raczyński Town
of Jesus square bustles
JA
PLAC Library
WOLNOŚCI Hall
ul. Szewska 18. Tel 61 852 50 76 or with life, and the OLD MARKET
853 33 59. outdoor cafés 27 GRUD
NIA National SQUARE
Museum
The Church of the Heart of Jesus with their tables Z IA
Airport KO
(Kościół Serca Jezusowego), and colourful
LN A
7 km (4 miles) Archaeological
built in the 13th century, is the sunshades are
SZ K O
PO Museum
DG GOŁ Ę
Ó BIA
oldest church in the old town. permanently Kaiser District
RN
A Church of Saints
It was a Dominican church busy. Local artists Ś W.
MARCIN Mary Magdalene
display their PLAC and Stanisław Chopin
until 1920, when it passed WIOSNY
LUDÓW Park
A
to the Jesuits. During the paintings, while WY
SOK PO
ST DG
A
German occupation in World children play on the RZ ÓR

IE JS K
EL NA
EC
War II, a repository was set up steps of the town hall. KA
P Ó ŁW
A
here for Polish books removed The square is also a venue ZI ELON
Train Station
1.6 km (1 mile)
from the libraries of Poznań. for cultural events.
P Działyński Palace
Stary Rynek 78. Tel 61 852 48 44.
∑ bkpan.poznan.pl
The palace was built in the late
18th century for Władysław
Gurowski, Grand Marshal of
Lithuania. The elegant Neo-
Classical façade is crowned
with a large eagle and set with
figures of Roman soldiers made
by Anton Höhne in 1785–7.
It is worth going inside to see
the columned Red Room
upstairs. The building is now
used as a library, theatre,
The Old Market Square in Poznań exhibition and concert hall.
POZNAŃ 221
P Town Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Stary Rynek 1. Museum of the
History of Poznań: Tel 61 856 81 93. Practical Information
Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu (Jun– Road map C3. * 545,000.
Sep: 11am–5pm), noon–9pm Fri, Tel 61 849 23 43. n Stary Rynek
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. & (free on 59 (61 852 61 56). ( Poznań
Sat). ∑ mnp.art.pl International Trade Fair (Jun).
_ Malta International Theatre
Poznań’s town hall is one of the
Festival (Jun); St Martin’s Day
finest municipal buildings in
(11 Nov). ∑ poznan.pl
Europe. It was built in 1550–60
by the Italian architect Giovanni Transport
Battista di Quadro. The façade £ Dworzec Główny. Tel 61 94
has three tiers of arcades, 36. k ul. Bukowska 283/285.
topped by a grand attic and a
The façade of Działyński Palace large tower and decorated with
portraits of the kings of Poland. R Church of Saints Mary
The greatest tourist attraction Magdalene and Stanisław
PÓŁNO
CNA
is the clock tower, where at ul. Gołębia 1. Tel 61 852 69 50.
noon each day two clockwork Construction work on this
goats emerge from doors Baroque church, which was
originally built for use as a
Jesuit chapel, began in 1651
GARBARY
PA N
NY
BOŻNICZA
W
Archdiocesan and continued for more than
M
WA
Museum
AR
50 years. Several architects,

II
a
SKO
rt
OSTRÓW TUMSKI craftsmen and artists had a

a
PIA
T
OST
RÓW UMSK
I
role in this extended project,
Church of
M A ŁE St Mary among them Tomasso Poncino,
GARB KI
A RY MS Poznań
Psalter
TU
Cathedral Bartołomiej Wąsowski and
E. E
ÓW
S TAW
NA ST Jan Catenaci.
KO
TR
W S
SK O
IE GO The most impressive aspect
GO YSZY ŃSKIE
Church of the KARD. S. W
Heart of Jesus of the church is probably its
DO M IN most
IK AŃ SK
A Bolesława monolithic interior. Gigantic
O
Chrobrego
W
I SZ
E
columns along the walls lead
AL
W
WIELKA CH 12 times to butt heads. the eye towards the illuminated
The Great Hall, or Renaissance high altar, which was designed
WOŹN
A Hall, on the first floor was and constructed in 1727 by
lavishly decorated to reflect the Pompeo Ferrari.
W O DN
A
affluence of the city’s municipal The Baroque buildings of a
RY
leaders. The coffered ceiling is former Jesuit monastery and

GARBA
covered with an intricate series college stand close to the

Jesuit
of paintings. Other important church. They were built for the
M O
College
collections can be seen in the brotherhood in 1701–33. Today,
ST
ZA BRAMKĄ
WSZYSTKICH
OW
ŚWIĘTYCH however, they are used for

Royal Hall and the Courtroom.
A
The centrepiece of the Old secular business by the members

Market Square is the Baroque of Poznań’s town council.
Proserpine Fountain of 1766,
0 metres 250 depicting the abduction of the
0 yards 250
ancient Roman fertility goddess
Proserpine by Pluto, ruler of the
underworld. Nearby stands a
Central Poznań copy of a stone pillory of 1535
1 Church of the Heart of Jesus and a 20th-century fountain
2 Old Market Square with the figure of a Bamberka,
3 Działyński Palace a peasant woman from the
4 Town Hall
Poznań area (see p222). It
commemorates the Catholic
5 Church of Saints Mary
settlers who were sent to
Magdalene and Stanisław
Poznań at the beginning of the
6 Przemysław Castle
18th century from Bamberg, in
7 National Museum
southern Germany. Soon they
8 Raczyński Library
became Polonized, although
9 Hill of St Aldalbert many of the city’s inhabitants
0 Poznań Cathedral still claim to be descendants The Renaissance town hall, with its three
q Archdiocesan Museum of the Bamberg settlers. tiers of loggias
Exploring Poznań The Gallery of European Art,

which is housed in its own
Poznań holds much of interest beyond the old town. The wing of the museum, contains
Bernadine church in Plac Bernardyński has a remarkably works from various collections,
narrow twin-towered façade built in the 18th century by Jan including that of Atanazy
Steyner. It is matched by the former Lutheran Church of the Raczyński, brother of the
philanthropist Count Edward
Holy Cross (Kościół św. Krzyża), dating from 1777–83.
Raczyński (see p218). The
Walking towards the main railway station, you go through most outstanding are by Dutch
the town centre and across Plac Wolności, a square lined and Flemish painters including
with shops and banks, then following Ulica św. Marcina, Joos van Cleve and Quentin
where the old Kaiser’s palace is located. The trade fair area Massys. Italian, French
can be seen on the other side of the railway. and Spanish painters are
also represented.
+ Przemysław Castle P Raczyński Library

Góra Przemysła 1. Museum of pl. Wolności 19. Tel 61 852 94 42.
Applied Art: Tel 61 856 81 83. Open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat.
Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, noon– ∑ bracz.edu.pl
9pm Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. With its façade of columns, the
& (free on Sat). ∑ mnp.art.pl Raczyński Library combines
Little remains of the original grandeur with elegance, and
castle built by Przemysław II in cannot be compared with any
the 1200s. The reconstructed other building in Poznań. The
castle that now stands on the idea for a library was initiated
site houses the Museum of by Count Edward Raczyński in
Applied Art, which holds a 1829. The aim of this visionary
collection of everyday objects, aristocrat was to turn Poznań
decorative artifacts and religious Statue of Hygeia, Greek goddess of health, into a “New Athens”; the library
items dating from the Middle outside the Raczyński Library was to be a centre of culture
Ages to the present. The and “a shrine of knowledge”.
Baroque Franciscan church on the Prussian Friedrich Museum, Although the library’s architect
Ulica Góra Przemysła dates from a Neo-Renaissance building of is unknown, it is thought to
the early 18th century. Frescoes 1900–1903. Its collections of have been built by the French
by the Franciscan painter Adam Polish painting are among the architects and designers
Swach decorate the nave. best in Poland. Charles Percier and Pierre
The Gallery of Polish Art Fontaine. A seated figure of
E National Museum includes medieval art of the Hygeia, the ancient Greek
al. Marcinkowskiego 9. Tel 61 856 12th to 16th centuries and 17th- goddess of health, with the
80 00. Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, to 18th-century coffin portraits features of Konstancja z
noon–9pm Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. (see p35). The best examples of Potockich, wife of Edward
& (free on Sat). ∑ mnp.art.pl painting of the Young Poland Raczyński, was installed in
The National Museum is movement are the canvases of front of the library in 1906.
housed in what was originally Jacek Malczewski (1854–1929). Another element of the “New
Athens” of Poznań was to be a
gallery (now non-existent) for
the outstanding art collection
owned by Edward Raczyński’s
brother, Atanazy.
P Former Kaiser District

After the Second Partition of
Poland in 1793, Poznań came
under Prussian rule. In the
second half of the 19th
century, Prussia heightened
its policy of Germanization
in Wielkopolska. One of its
instruments was the Deutscher
Ostmarkenverein (“German
Union of the Eastern Marches”),
which the Poles called the
“Hakata” colonization
The somewhat severe Neo-Renaissance façade of the National Museum commission, from the acronym
POZNAŃ 223
of the initials of its founders.

When the city’s ring of
19th-century fortifications was
demolished, a decision was
made to use the space for
government buildings.
Designed by the German town
planner Josef Stübben, they
were built in 1903–14 and
today stand amid gardens,
squares and avenues, with a
theatre, the colonization
commission, a post office and
the royal academy (now the
university). Dominating the The Opera, built in 1910, is flanked by statues of lions
scene is the Kaiserhaus,
designed by Franz Schwechten. summit two churches face each Edmund Strzelecki (1797–1873).
The castle was rebuilt by the other across a small square. One A striking contrast to the rest of
Germans, but little survives of is the Discalced Carmelites’ the building is the ultramodern
its original splendour apart Church of St Joseph, built by glass, concrete and stainless
from a marble imperial throne Cristoforo Bonadura the Elder steel entrance to the crypt,
and the decor of some of the and Jan Catenaci in 1658–67. It which was designed by Jerzy
rooms. The chairs from the contains the tomb of Mikołaj Gurawski in 1997.
Great Hall are now in the Sejm Jan Skrzetuski, who died in
(parliament) in Warsaw. Today, 1668 and on whom Henryk
the Kaiserhaus accommodates Sienkiewicz (see p31) based
the Kaiserhaus Cultural Centre. the hero of his historical saga
Beside it, in Plac Mickiewicza, With Fire and Sword.
stands the evocative Monu- The other is the small Gothic
ment to the Victims of June Church of St Adalbert, forming
1956, which takes the form a pantheon with practically the
of two large crosses. The same function as the Pauline
monument was unveiled in Church on the Rock in Krakow
1981 to commemorate the (see p149). In the crypt are the
violent suppression of the remains of great figures in the
workers’ uprising in Poznań in history of Wielkopolska. They
1956 (see p58). include Józef Wybicki (1747–
1822), who wrote the Polish
national anthem, and the The modern entrance to the crypt of the
traveller and scientist Paweł Church of St Adalbert
The Poznań Trade Fair

The trade fair area is in the city centre, the main entrance lying
opposite Dworcowy Bridge. The Poznań International Trade Fair has
been held here every year since 1921. It takes place in June, and for its
duration the surrounding area is filled with an international throng of
businessmen. If you visit at this time you will find that the local cafés
and restaurants are often full
and hotel accommodation can
be extremely hard to come by.
The symbol of the Trade Fair
is a steel needle erected over
the lower part of the Upper
Silesian Tower in 1955, the
main part having been
Monument to the Victims destroyed during World War II.
of June 1956 When the tower was built
in 1911, to a design by
Hill of St Adalbert Hans Poelzig, it was
The hill is said to be the spot considered by admiring
where, 1,000 years ago, St critics to be a masterpiece
Adalbert gave a sermon before of modern architecture in The needle rising over the Poznań
setting off on his campaign to reinforced concrete. International Trade Fair
evangelize the Prussians. On the
Poznań Cathedral
The first church, a pre-Romanesque basilica, was built in
Poznań in 966, shortly after Poland adopted Christianity,
and the first rulers of Poland were buried there. In 1034–8
the basilica was destroyed during pagan uprisings and
the campaign of the Czech prince
Brzetysław. It was then completely
rebuilt in the Romanesque style. It
was remodelled in the Gothic and
Baroque periods, and after Coffin Portrait
suffering war damage was The cathedral has a
display of these portraits,
restored to its earlier Gothic which were used during
form. Vestiges of the funeral ceremonies in the
pre-Romanesque and 17th and 18th centuries.
Romanesque churches
can be seen in the crypt.
Tomb of the Górka Family

The tomb of the Górkas, a
prominent Wielkopolska
family, was made in the
Chapel of the Holy Cross by
Girolamo Canavesi in 1574.
Main entrance
High Altar
The late Gothic polyptych on the
high altar was probably carved in
the workshop of Jacob Beinhart in Wrocław
and painted in the Pasje studio of Upper Silesia.
It was brought to the cathedral in 1952.
POZNAŃ 225
Ostrów Tumski. Tel 61 852 96 42
or 856 04 54. Open Mar–Oct:
9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 2–6pm Sun;
Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm Mon–Sat,
2–6pm Sun.
Gothic Church of St Mary, with the cathedral in the background
Ostrów Tumski Island Bishop Jan Lubrański, is another

. Tomb of Bishop Ostrów Tumski Island is the of Ostrów Tumski Island’s
Benedykt Izdbieński oldest part of Poznań. In the notable buildings. Its fine
The tomb was made 10th century it was the site of stepped and recessed gables
by Jan Michałowicz one of the first capital cities of are enclosed by ogee arches.
of Urzędów, the most the Polish state.
celebrated sculptor of Today the island is dominated
the Polish Renaissance, by the Gothic towers of the
in 1557–62. cathedral, which contains many
fine works of art. Near the
cathedral stands the small
Gothic Church of St Mary
(Kościół halowy NMP), which
was built in the years 1431–48
for Bishop Andrzej Bniński by
Hanusz Prusz, a pupil of the
notable late medieval architect
Heinrich Brunsberg.
Also of interest is the
Lubrański Academy, the first
institute of higher education
to be established in Poznań,
which was founded in 1518 by
Bishop Jan Lubrański. Behind its Arcaded courtyard of Lubrański Academy
inconspicuous façade lies a
small arcaded Renaissance E Archdiocesan Museum
courtyard. The academy ul. Lubrańskiego 1. Tel 61 852 61 95.
acquired its greatest renown in Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–3pm
the early 16th century. One of Sat. Closed public hols. & 8
its alumni was Jan Struś, a The superb collection of
scientist and a prominent religious art on display in the
physician during the years Archdiocesan Museum includes
of the Polish Renaissance. examples of medieval painting
In the gardens on the other and sculpture, pieces of Gothic
side of Ulica ks. l. Posadzego embroidery and some fine
stand a number of canons’ kontusz sashes (see pp34–5).
and vicars’ houses which are The most important pieces
. Golden Chapel charming in appearance – if a in the museum are probably
The chapel, built in 1834–41, little neglected. One of them the Madonna of Ołobok, a
contains the tombs of two of contains the collections of the Romanesque-Gothic statue
Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I and Archdiocesan Museum. dating from about 1310–29,
Bolesław the Brave. Their statues The late Gothic Psalter, which and a fascinating group of
were carved by Chrystian Rauch. was built in around 1520 by coffin portraits (see p35).
w Biskupin
Road map C3. * 320. @ n 052
302 50 55. Open summer: 9am–6pm
daily; winter: 9am–5pm daily. &
_ Archaeology Gala (Sep).
∑ biskupin.pl
The remains of a 2,500-year-old

Iron Age fortified settlement can
be seen on an island in Lake
Biskupinskie. The settlement was
built entirely of wood and was
Façade of the Baroque and Neo-Classical palace in Gułtowy inhabited for about 150 years by
people of the Lusatian culture. It
8 Gułtowy a fortified town stood on the was surrounded by a stockade
Road map C3. * 990. £ @ Tel 61 island, surrounded by earth and a wall of earth and wood
852 61 56. Open by appointment only. ramparts enclosing the earliest 6 m (18 ft) high. Access was
known Christian buildings in over a bridge and through a
The pretty Baroque and Neo- Poland. Archaeologists have gateway. The wall enclosed
Classical palace at Gułtowy uncovered the foundations more than 100 houses built
was built in 1779–83 for of a rotunda and a rectangular in 13 terraces, and the streets
Ignacy Bniński to a design hall identified as a baptistery were paved with wood. The
by an unknown architect and and palace. The remains of a population was about 1,000.
subsequently altered by Ignacy church were also found. When the water level rose, the
Graff. The most striking feature The town is assumed to lake flooded the houses and
of its interior is the two-tiered have been the seat of the Piasts covered the settlement with a
ballroom decorated with (see pp44–5). The baptism of layer of silt, so that the site was
delicate trompe l’oeil paintings Poland, by which the country abandoned. It was rediscovered
dating from about 1800. adopted Christianity, is believed in 1934 by a local teacher,
to have taken place in this Walenty Szwajcer. It is the
baptistery in 966. earliest known settlement in
9 Czerniejewo Poland and one of the most
Road map C3. * 2,600. £ 4.5 km E Museum of the First Piasts interesting prehistoric sites in
(3 miles). @ Palace Hotel: Tel 61 876 Lednogóra. Tel 61 427 50 10. the whole of Europe.
84 05. ∑ czerniejewo.pl Open 15 Feb–14 Apr: 9am–3pm Some of the buildings have
Tue–Sun (from 10am Sun); been reconstructed and there
Czerniejewo has one of the 15–30 Apr & Jul–Oct: 9am–5pm are pens with small ponies,
finest Neo-Classical palaces in Tue–Sun (from 10am Sun); May & goats and sheep similar to those
Wielkopolska. It was built for Jun: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (from 10am that the inhabitants would have
General Jan Lipski in 1771–80, Sun). Closed 1 Nov–14 Feb. & raised. The annual Archaeology
and the monumental four- ∑ lednicamuzeum.pl Gala features exhibitions – of
columned portico was added Iron Age hairstyles and archery,
in 1789– 91. Situated in a large for example – and workshops
park and connected to the
q Gniezno where artifacts are made by
town by a wide scenic avenue, See pp228–9. prehistoric methods.
it makes a grand impression.
Within, the unusual circular
ballroom is probably its finest
feature. Today the palace is a
hotel, a restaurant and a
conference venue.
0 Ostrów Lednicki
Road map C3. @ £ g concides
with opening hours for the Museum
of the Firsts Piasts. Closed 1 Nov–
14 Apr.
The small island in Lake

Lednickie has special significance
as the place where Poland is
believed to have adopted
Christianity. In the 10th century Reconstructed fortifications of the Iron Age lake settlement in Biskupin
r Romanesque
Architecture Tour
See pp230–31.
t Ląd
Road map C3. * 530. @
Ląd was settled by Cistercian

monks after 1193. The
monastery retains a number
of Romanesque and Gothic
buildings, one of which
contains a Gothic fresco of
about 1372 commemorating
the benefactors of the church.
Lubostroń Palace viewed from the The Baroque church is Ornately decorated interior of the Baroque
courtyard considerably later. The twin- church in Ląd
towered façade by Giuseppe
e Lubostroń Simone Belloti does not do
justice to the ornately
y Śmiełów
Road map C2. * 790. @ Tel 52 384 decorated nave, which was Road map C3. @
46 23. ∑ palac-lubostron.pl built in 1730–33. Commissioned
by the abbot Mikołaj The Neo-Classical palace in
In 1795–1800 Fryderyk Józef A. Łukomski, Pompeo Ferrari Śmiełów, built by Stanisław
Skórzewski, a landowner, designed a single interior Zawadzki for Andrzej Ostroróg
commissioned Stanisław space covered by a large Gorzeński in 1797, is associated
Zawadzki to build a palace here dome rising to a height of 36 m with the Romantic poet Adam
in the Neo-Classical style. It has (119 ft); the paintings by Georg Mickiewicz, who stayed here in
a square floor plan with a central Wilhelm Neunhertz depict the 1831, hoping to cross into the
rotunda and columned porticos Church Fathers during the land annexed part of the country
on all four sides, and is an seizures and give visual where the November
outstanding imitation of the expression to the methods by Insurrection against Russian
Villa Rotonda built in Vicenza, which the Counter-Reformation rule was taking place.
Italy, by the Italian Renaissance would triumph in Poland: by His plan failed, but the palace
architect Andrea Palladio. teaching and persuasion rather at Śmiełów, with its landscaped
Lubostroń Palace has a rather than by militancy. grounds, became the backdrop
severe and monumental to Mickiewicz’s love for
appearance, but its interior is Environs Konstanta Łubieńska. Today,
one of the finest surviving In Ciążeń, 5 km (3 miles) west fittingly, the palace houses the
examples of Polish Neo-Classical of Poznań, there is a late Adam Mickiewicz Museum,
architecture. It is decorated with Baroque bishop’s palace, now dedicated to the poet’s life and
a bas-relief depicting the history owned by Poznań University works and containing exhibits
of the Wielkopolska region. Library. Nadwarciański Nature from the age of Romanticism.
The palace is set in Reserve nearby is one of the
landscaped grounds which world’s most scenic refuges for E Adam Mickiewicz Museum
date from about 1800. Today wading and aquatic birds. Żerków. Tel 62 740 31 64. Open 10am–
it is used for conferences and 4pm Tue–Sun (May–Sep: to 8pm Sun).
also has guest rooms for hire. & (free Wed). ∑ mnp.art.pl
Neo-Classical palace in Śmiełów, today the Adam Mickiewicz Museum

q Gniezno Potocki Chapel

The chapel of
Archbishop Teodor
The 14th-century Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption Potocki was built
(Archikatedra Wniebowzięcia NMP) stands on the by Pompeo Ferrari
site of two earlier churches. The first was a pre- in 1727–30. It is
Romanesque church built some time after 970, and decorated with
Baroque paintings
the second a Romanesque church dating from the by Mathias
mid–11th century. When Princess Dąbrówka, wife of Johannes Mayer.
Mieszko I, was buried here in 977, Gniezno was the
first capital of the Polonians. Its importance increased
further when in 997 the relics of St Adalbert were laid
in the church. From 1025 to the 14th century Poland’s
royal rulers were crowned in the cathedral.
. Bronze Doors
The bronze doors of the
cathedral, made in the
late 12th century and
depicting scenes from
the life and martyrdom
of St Adalbert, are
among the finest
examples of
Romanesque art
in Europe.
. Tomb of Archbishop
Zbigniew Oleśnicki
This tomb was carved in red
marble by the late Gothic
sculptor Veit Stoss in 1495.
KEY
1 Baroque towers were

reconstructed after the originals
of 1779.
2 Original Gothic arches have
been preserved in the aisles and
the ambulatory.

St Adalbert VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
St Adalbert (St Wojciech in Polish) was a bishop from Prague. In Practical Information
977, at the suggestion of Bolesław the Brave, he left Poland for Road map C3. * 70,000.
the heathen lands of Prussia, where he converted the inhabitants n ul. Rynek 14 (61 428 41 00).
to Christianity but was martyred. Bolesław bought the saint’s Cathedral: ul. Łaskiego 9. Tel 61
body from the Prussians, 428 40 80. Open 9am–6pm.
giving them in return its Closed services, noon–1pm.
weight in gold, and laid the = 8 Bronze Doors: & 8
remains in Gniezno. Pope ∑ gniezno.eu
Sylvester II acknowledged
Transport
the bishop’s martyrdom
£@
and canonized him.
In 1038, when the Czech
prince Brzetysław invaded
the city, the cathedral was Exploring Gniezno
sacked and the saint’s relics Baptism of the Prussians, a scene from Besides its magnificent cathedral,
taken to Prague. the cathedral doors Gniezno has many historic
buildings and fine museums,
making for a pleasant walk
around the city. Gniezno
Nave
Archdiocesan Museum, next
The arcades separating
to the cathedral, has religious
the nave from the
aisles have rich artifacts, including paintings,
sculptural decoration sculpture, textiles and coffin
made from artificial portraits (see p35). A smart street
stone and dating from leads off the Market Square to
the second half of the the Gothic Church of St John
14th century. (Kościół św. Jana), which has
14th-century murals. It is hard to
imagine that this small town was
once the capital of the Polish
nation. The Museum of the
Origins of the Polish State in
Piast Park tells the history of the
city. In the park are the remains
of a late medieval fortified town.
E Gniezno
Archdiocesan Museum
ul. Kolegiaty 2. Tel 61 426
37 78. Open May–Oct:
9am–5pm daily
(to 4pm Sun); Nov–Apr:
9am–4pm Tue–Sat.
& (free for clergy).
∑ muzeumag.com
An impressive
collection of religious
art, including
artifacts from the
cathedral treasury, Monument to Bolesław
Visitors’ is displayed in
entrance the Brave
this museum.
E Museum of the Origins of

the Polish State
ul. Kostrzewskiego 1. Tel 61 426 46 41.
Shrine of
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & (free
St Adalbert
on Sun). d 8 ∑ mppp.pl
The silver casket,
made in 1662 by This archaeological museum
Peter van der documents the early history of
Rennen, contains a the town of Gniezno, as well as
box with the relics the period when it was the
of St Adalbert. capital of Poland.
r Romanesque Architecture Tour

Sadly, few buildings survive in Wielkopolska from the
earliest days of the Polish nation in the 10th century. For
hundreds of years most building in Poland was in wood,
and more durable brick or stone architecture was rare.
A tour of pre-Romanesque and Romanesque buildings
in Wielkopolska might start at Gniezno, then take in
Trzemeszno and Mogilno. The finest Romanesque
architecture in Poland is to be found in Strzelno – examples
are the Rotunda of St Procopius and the Church of the Holy
Trinity, with its remarkable Romanesque pillars. Another
town of interest is Kruszwica, setting for the legend of King
Popiel and home to the “Mouse Tower” of that tale.
1 Gniezno
2 Trzemeszno By the 14th century, Gniezno’s
In the 12th century an Romanesque church had been
order of Augustinian replaced by a Gothic cathedral,
canons regular settled but the bronze doors of the earlier
here on the site of a building survive (see pp228–9).
pre-Romanesque
basilica and Benedictine
monastery that had
been demolished in
1038. In 1782–91 the
church was rebuilt in
the Baroque style.
Poznań
4 Strzelno
The Rotunda of St Procopius
in Strzelno dates from the
turn of the 13th century.
In the Church of the Holy
3 Mogilno Trinity 12th-century
The Benedictine church probably dates carvings, discovered
from the 11th century. After many phases in 1946, depict
of rebuilding it finally acquired a Baroque personifications of
façade, although many Romanesque the virtues and vices
elements remain, in particular the crypt. of Christian tradition.

W I E L K O P L S K A  G R E AT E R P O L A N D  231
Tips for Drivers

Length of trail: About 100 km
(60 miles).
Stopping-off points: Every town
mentioned has restaurants and
cafés as well as accommodation
available. There is a tourist hostel
in Strzelno.
7 Lake Gopło
This narrow lake is surrounded Toruń
mostly by marshy meadows. Bydgoszcz
It is home to many birds,
including bitterns, marsh
harriers, lapwings and
wild geese.
Ka
6 Kruszwica
na
No Kruszwica was briefly the seat of a

ł
tecki
bishopric and the mid-12th-century
Church of St Peter may well have been
its cathedral. The shell and the interior
Barcin of the church are built of granite
ashlars, which survive, remarkably,
Lake
Pakoskie
almost in their original state.
Lake
Gopło Key
Tour route
Radziejów Other road
Konin
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5 The Legend of King Popiel

The legend of King Popiel was recorded in the
early 12th century by Gall Anonim, the first Polish
chronicler. According to the legend, Siemowit
Piast, founder of the Piast dynasty, was a peasant
from Kruszwica. The Polonians, terrified by the
atrocities committed by their king, Popiel,
decided to depose him
and chose Siemowit Piast
as his successor. Popiel
fled to his tower but the
rebels turned into mice
and devoured him. The
Gothic tower overlooking
Lake Gopło in Kruszwica
is called the “Mouse
Tower” but was in fact
5 Inowrocław built in the 14th century,
The most historic building in this health resort a few hundred years after
is the Church of Our Lady, dating from the turn these events were said to
of the 13th century, built in the time of the have taken place. The Mouse Tower
dukes of Inowrocław.

i Kalisz
Road map C4. * 103,000. @ £
n ul. Zamkowa (62 598 27 31). _
Theatre Festival (May); International
Jazz Festival (Nov–Dec). ∑ kalisz.pl
Kalisz, a settlement on the

amber route between the Baltic
Sea and Rome, has ancient
origins. It is mentioned as Calisia
by Ptolemy in his Geography of
AD 142–7. However, a town did
not grow up here until the 13th
century, and it did not really
develop until the 15th century,
when Kalisz became a provincial
capital. During the Partitions of
Poland, Kalisz was the furthest
outpost of the Russian empire.
In 1914, just after the start of
World War I, it was severely
bombarded by Prussian artillery.
Its rebuilding began in 1917,
and the present city centre, with
town houses surrounding the
Market Square, the town hall
Castle in Gołuchów, home of the Działyński family and the Bogusławski Theatre,
dates from that time. A
u Gołuchów E Castle Museum substantial number of earlier
Road map C4. * 1,500. ul. Działyńskich 2. Tel 62 761 50 94. buildings survive. These include
@ ∑ goluchow.pl Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun (May– the Gothic Cathedral of St
Sep: to 8pm Sun). & (free on Tue). Nicholas (Katedra św. Mikołaja),
- ∑ mnp.art.pl
The castle at Gołuchów looks as the late Baroque collegiate
if it belongs in the Loire Valley, Church of the Assumption
in France, alongside the other Environs (Kościół Wniebowzięcia NMP),
Renaissance châteaux for which In Dobryczy, 23 km (14 miles) and the neighbouring
that region is celebrated. to the west of Gołuchów, is Mannerist church, formerly a
Although the castle at the Neo-Classical residence Jesuit college. The group of
Gołuchów was built in the mid- of Augustyn Gorzeński, a Bernadine monasteries and the
16th to 17th centuries, its freemason, built in 1798–9. late Renaissance Church of the
present exterior dates only from
1872–85, commissioned by the
owners, Izabella Czartoryska and
her husband, Jan Działyński.
Izabella was the daughter of
Adam Czartoryski, a Polish
émigré leader in Paris, and was
educated in France; her wish
was to turn the residence into a
“paradise on earth” according to
her own tastes. She also built a
museum that was open to the
public. Initial plans for the
renovation of the castle were
made in around 1871 by the
French architect Eugène Viollet-
le-Duc. The rest of the castle
was designed by his son-in-law,
Maurice August Ouradou, after
plans by Polish architects. Today
the castle museum contains
European and Oriental works
of art from the collection of
the Działyński family. Bernadine church in Kalisz
Annunciation (Kościół there is a delightful wooden essentially a large brick tower

Nawiedzenia NMP) are also church called Na Pólku, dating designed as a residence. The
worth a visit. from 1711. most interesting part of the
museum is the exhibition of
R Cathedral of St Nicholas grand interiors of the 16th to
p Piotrków
ul. Kanonicka 5. Tel 62 757 59 74. 20th centuries.
Trybunalski
Road map D4. * 75,000. £ @ E Regional Museum
n Zamurowa 11 (44 732 60 51). pl. Zamkowy 4. Tel 44 646 52 72.
∑ piotrkow.pl Open 10am–3pm Tue–Sun (to 5pm
Tue & Fri, to 4pm Sat). Closed pub
Before the Partitions of Poland, hols & day after pub hols. & 8
this was the town where R Church of St Jacob
sessions of the royal court and ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 1.
parliament were held, and after Tel 44 646 51 40.
1578 it was the seat of the R Jesuit church
Crown Tribunal. The town ul. Pijarska 4. Tel 44 647 01 51.
flourished and many
magnificent churches bear
witness to those times. Above a Sulejów
Tribunal Square (Rynek
Antoni Radziwiłł’s hunting lodge in Trybunalski) rises the brick Road map D4. * 6,400. @
Antonin tower and Baroque roof of the ∑ sulejow.pl
Gothic Parish Church of
o Antonin St Jacob. Synods and official In 1177 a Cistercian abbey was
Road map C4. * 320. @ £ ceremonies were conducted founded here by Kazimierz the
_ Chopin Festival (Sep). here. The large Jesuit church, Just and the church was
dating from 1695–1727, consecrated in 1232. It is in the
When Duke Antoni Radziwiłł contains remarkable trompe Romanesque-Gothic style and
asked Karl Friedrich Schinkel to l’oeil paintings by Andrzej has remained almost unaltered
build him a hunting lodge, it was Ahorn, himself a Jesuit and a across the centuries, although
an unusual commission for the self-taught painter. The scheme the interior does contain
architect. The small larchwood includes a painting of a monk Baroque altars and paintings
building, dating from 1822–4, looking into the church through in the same style.
has a cruciform plan and an a painted grille. Other interesting The Romanesque portal in the
octagonal centre. The churches include the west front bears what are said
octagonal hall is Piarist church and to be sword marks made by
surrounded by monastery, now a knights who in 1410 went to
galleries supported Protestant church, a war with the Teutonic Knights.
by a large central 17th-century The monastery fell into ruin,
pillar. It was here that, Dominican although the remaining parts
in 1827, Fryderyk monastery complex of it have been renovated and
Chopin taught Wanda, and the former are now a hotel and museum.
Duke Radziwiłł’s Dominican Church Near the abbey is a large
daughter, with of Saints Jacek and artificial lake made in the
whom he fell in love. Detail from the castle in Dorothy (Kościół św. 1970s on the River Pilica.
The piano on which Piotrków Trybunalski Jacka i Doroty), with It is a popular holiday spot.
the great composer Rococo interior.
played was chopped up for There is also a Regional E Regional Museum
firewood by soldiers of the Red Museum located in a Gothic- Tel 44 616 25 84. Open 9am–6pm
Army who were billeted in the Renaissance castle that is Mon–Sat & 1–6pm Sun (call first). &
lodge. The building now houses
a Centre for Culture and Art,
and is the venue for concerts
and festivals in honour of
Chopin, as well as hunting balls.
P Centre for Culture and Art

Pałac Myśliwski. Tel 62 734 83 00.
Open 7am–10pm daily.
Environs
In the village of Bralin, 36 km
(22 miles) north of Antonin, Cistercian abbey in Sulejów
s Łódź VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The centre of the Polish textile industry, Łódź developed at an Practical Information
astonishing rate as the industry thrived. Its population grew Road map D4. * 708,000.
n ul. Piotrkowska 87 (42 638 59
from just 15,000 in 1850 to more than half a million in 1914. It 55). _ International Ballet
was a place of great contrasts, which were vividly documented Festival (May).
in the novel The Promised Land (1899) by the Nobel Prize-
Transport
winning author Władysław Reymont. The contrasts can still be £ Railway information: Tel 42 94
seen in the architecture of the city, where vast fortunes and 36. @ Coach information: PKS
abject poverty existed side by side. Factories and opulent Tel 42 631 97 06.
mansions sprang up in their hundreds, contrasting with the
ramshackle homes of the factory workers.
hall, which dates from 1827,
Exploring Łódź when the foundations of
The city’s main thoroughfare is industry were being laid in Łódź.
Ulica Piotrkowska, which is The city’s cemeteries –
several kilometres long. Its most the Catholic and Protestant
important section stretches cemeteries in Ulica Srebrzyńska
from Plac Wolności to Aleje and the Jewish cemetery in
Piłudskiego. It is Poland’s Ulica Bracka – contain some
longest pedestrianized street exceptionally interesting
and is lined with shops, cafés, monuments that bear witness
restaurants and banks. to the variety of cultures and
Behind the town houses, nationalities that existed in Łódź
the brick factory buildings before 1939, when it was a city
still stand, many of them with one of the largest Jewish
now converted into stores. populations in Europe. The
A noteworthy example is the Colourful Art Nouveau stained-glass grand mausoleums were built
one at Piotrkowska 137/139, window in Poznański Palace for local industrialists, who
built in 1907 for the cotton before 1914 were the wealthiest
manufacturer Juliusz Monument to Tadeusz people in the Russian empire.
Kindermann by the architect Kościuszko from 1930, rebuilt The Leopold Kindermann
Gustav Landau-Gutenteger, and after its destruction in 1939 and Villa at Ulica Wólczańska 31/33
featuring a gold mosaic frieze a favourite meeting place for is another Art Nouveau building
depicting an allegory of trade. the city’s youth. Beside it stands designed by Gustav Landau-
In Plac Wolności there is a the modest Neo-Classical town Gutenteger. It was built in 1902
Old Town
NOWO
Łódż Park Central Łódź

Manufaktura Historical
Museum 1 Town Hall
M IE JS KA
OW A
OG R OD
Church of 2 Museum of Modern Art
St Joseph
Catholic and PLAC 3 Łódź Historical Museum
Protestant WOLNOŚCI
ÓW 4 Leopold Kindermann Villa
WSCH
Cemeteries LE G IO N Town
S. ST ER
Hall 05
CJI 19
OR G AN
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Jewish
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Alexander Nevsky
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Museum of 0 metres 500

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Cinematography
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L. ZA
and features fine stained-glass

windows. Today it houses an
art gallery.
At the turn of the 20th century
the townscape of Łódź was
dominated by the industrialists’
palaces. The finest surviving
examples are the residences of
the textile-factory-owner Izrael
Kalmanowicz Poznański, at
Ogrodowa 15 and Gdańska 36,
and a remarkable palace at Plac
Zwycięstwa 1 that rivals the one
built by Karol Scheibler, the
merchant celebrated as the Romanesque basilica at Tum, near Łęczyca
“cotton king” of Poznań.
The museum contains exhibits d Łęczyca
E Łódź Historical Museum associated with the pianists Road map D3. * 14,800. £ @
ul. Ogrodowa 15. Tel 42 254 90 00. Władysław Kędra and Artur
Open 10am–2pm Mon, 10am–4pm Rubinstein, who was born The royal castle at Łęczyca, built
Tue & Thu, 2–6pm Wed, 11am–6pm in Łódź. in 1357 by Kazimierz the Great,
Sat & Sun. & 8 ∑ muzeum- was the third fortified building
lodz.pl E Museum of Modern Art to be raised in the town. Little
The museum is located in ul. Więckowskiego 36. Tel 42 633 is known about the first. The
Poznański Palace, beside a large 97 90. Open 10am–6pm Tue, 11am– second was the seat of the
group of brick factory buildings. 7pm Wed–Sun. & (free Thu). = rulers of another duchy.
Alongside the palace stands a ∑ msl.org.pl The castle, with its brick tower,
former spinning mill, a vast Neo- The Museum of Modern Art is served as a jail for imprisoned
Renaissance edifice designed by housed in another of Izrael aristocrats. The Regional
Hilary Majewski in 1876. The Poznański’s palaces, this Museum within it contains
eclectic palace, which has twin one built in artifacts from prehistoric
cupolas, was built in stages from imitation of times to the present.
1888 onwards. Notable features a Florentine The main attraction is
of the interior are the grand Renaissance the unusual exhibition
staircase, the series of private palazzo. dedicated to the devil
apartments, the beautifully Besides work by Boruta, legendary
restored reception rooms, and Poland’s foremost guardian of the
the belle époque furniture. modern painters, the treasure hidden in
museum also contains a the castle’s cellar.
collection of modern art,
featuring the likes of Hans The devil Boruta at E Regional Museum
Łęczyca royal castle ul. Zamkowa 1. Tel 24
Arp, Piet Mondrian, Max
Ernst and Joseph Beuys. 721 24 49. Open May–
Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (from 11am
E Museum of Sat & Sun); Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm
Cinematography Tue–Sun (to 5pm Fri, to 3pm Sat &
pl. Zwycięstwa 1. Tel 42 674 09 57. Sun). Closed public hols. & 8 =
∑ zamek.leczyca.pl
Open 10am–5pm Tue, 9am–4pm
Wed & Fri, 11am–6pm Thu, Sat & Sun.
& (free on Tue). ∑ kinomuzeum.pl Environs
Situated in the eclectic palace In Tum, 3 km (2 miles) from
of Karol Scheibler, the museum Łęczyca, there is a splendidly
contains a rich collection of preserved Romanesque
films and film posters from the church. This granite building,
earliest days of cinematography consecrated in 1161, was
to modern times. It also remodelled several times, but
documents the works of its current form is close to the
Łódź’s renowned film school, original. It consists of a triple-
whose graduates include the nave basilica with two circular
directors Andrzej Wajda, Roman and two square towers and an
Polański, Krzysztof Kieślowski apse at the west and east ends.
and Jerzy Skolimowski, and the The west apse has a remarkable
Elaborate Moorish stove in the Scheibler much-praised cameraman Romanesque fresco of Christ in
Palace, Łódź Witold Sobociński. Glory, painted in 1161.
GDAŃSK
Gdańsk is among the finest cities of northern Europe,
distinguished by beautiful buildings and a history
that stretches back more than 1,000 years. For many
centuries the wealthiest city in Poland, it was in 1939
the place where the first shots of World War II were
fired. The end of the conflict brought destruction,
but Gdańsk recovered as settlers moved in from other
parts of Poland.
The earliest mention of Gdańsk occurs in the royal courts of Europe, and the city’s
997. For more than 300 years it was the gemstone and amber workshops won
capital of a Slav duchy in Pomerania, and great renown. From 1793 it was
in 1308 it was taken over by the Teutonic incorporated into Prussia, only becoming
Knights. Under their rule, the city grew. a free city under the Treaty of Versailles
In 1361 Gdańsk became a member of the after World War I. It was almost totally
Hanseatic League (a trade association of destroyed during World War II, but a post-
Baltic towns), further bolstering its war rebuilding programme has restored
economic development. From 1466 until many of the city’s finest buildings and
the Second Partition in 1793, the city much of its historic atmosphere.
belonged to Poland; it was the country’s Today Gdańsk, attractively set between
largest Baltic port and an important the coast and wooded hills, is renowned
centre of the grain and timber trade for its mercantile traditions and its
between Poland and the rest of Europe. openness to the world. Together with
A wealthy city, Gdańsk played a pivotal the coastal resort of Sopot and the
role in the Polish Republic (see p48). It port of Gdynia (see p269), it forms the
also became a major centre of the arts – conurbation known as Trójmiasto
goldsmiths fashioned fine jewellery for (“the Tri-City”).
The beautiful main town of Gdańsk

One of the allegorical statues on Gdańsk’s Golden Gate
JA
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Exploring Gdańsk SOLIDARNOŚCI
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OL
KI
NA
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The most important buildings in terms of the history
KIE
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of Gdańsk are to be found in the city centre, which
STO
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GI
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Station (Dworzec Główny), the Highland Gate (Brama
EW
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continuing on foot from there. The bus, tram or O
W
A
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urban railway (SKM) are all useful for travelling to
outlying parts of the city. You can also take the SKM
.
to reach Oliwa in the northwest, which has a fine NA
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group of cathedral buildings, one of which contains GN ZA RT
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a famous organ, and a good park for walking.
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Ulica Długie Pobrzeże on the River Motława TARG SZE

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Gdańsk has good transport
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TA R G
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and from all the major cities in

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Poland – the express train from

A
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There is an international airport

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at Rębiechowo, near Gdańsk.

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It is also easy to reach Gdańsk

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Railway line
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by car, whether from Warsaw

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Pedestrian street
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(route E77), central Poland

PO
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(route E75), Szczecin (route OG
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E28) or Berlin (route 22).

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Bay of Gdańsk
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For hotels and restaurants see p304 and p317

GDAŃSK 239
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Sights at a Glance
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5 Church of St Bridget
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WARZYW
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1 Monument to the
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Shipyard Workers
2 Old Town Hall
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Street-by-Street: Along Raduna Canal

Despite wartime destruction, some fine buildings have survived
on either side of the Raduna Canal. It was dug in about 1338, one
of the greatest projects undertaken by the Teutonic Knights in
Gdańsk, and for many centuries it was of great importance to the
city’s economy. The current in the canal was used to supply power
for local mills, grindstones and a sawmill. Among the
buildings look out for the Mannerist-style House of the
Abbots of Pelplin, the Great Mill, which dates from the
rule of the Teutonic Knights, and the enormous
churches of St Catherine and St Bridget.
The Church of St Joseph
is a former Carmelite 2 . Old Town Hall
church, built in 1482. The Lord’s Blessing in
After the devastation one of the rooms is from
of World War II, it the ceiling of the house
was rebuilt by the at Ulica Długa 39. It is
Church Fathers. ascribed to the workshop
of 17th-century
Pomeranian artist
Hermann Hahn.
The Church of
St Elizabeth was Small Mill
built in 1417 beside
a leprosorium, or
lepers’ sanctuary.
RA
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KO
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House of the
Abbots of Pelplin 3 . Great Mill
0 metres 50
Today this medieval brick
0 yards 50 mill houses a modern
shopping centre.
GDAŃSK 241
1 Monument to the 2 Old Town Hall

Shipyard Workers Nadbałtyckie Centrum Kultury, ul.
Korzenna 33/35. Tel 58 301 10 51.
Plac Solidarności Robotniczej. @ v 7 - 0 ∑ nck.org.pl
to Dworzec PKP.
Built by Antonis van Opbergen
The monument was built a in 1587–95, the Old Town Hall
few months after the famous in Gdańsk is an outstanding
Gdańsk Shipyard workers’ strike example of Dutch Mannerist
Locator Map of 1980 and the creation of architecture. It is a compact,
See pp238–9 the independent Solidarity plain building with no
trade union (see p59). distinctive ornamentation,
It was erected in and is equipped with a
honour of the shipyard defence tower. The
workers who were stone doorway was
killed during the strike probably made by
and demonstrations of Willem van der Meer.
December 1970; it stands Beneath each bracket
30 m (100 ft) from the are two distorted masks
spot where the first three personifying vice, and
victims fell. Its three two smiling, chubby
5 Church of St Bridget
This church was used as stainless steel crosses, masks, personifying virtue.
a place of worship by 42 m (130 ft) high, were Within the town hall, the
Solidarity members. both a warning that such painting, sculpture and
a tragedy might happen furniture are very
again and a symbol of interesting, although little
remembrance and hope. is left of the original
The monument was decorative scheme of
designed by the ship- 1595. Of particular interest
yard workers and a is the painted ceiling in
group of artists one of the rooms which
including Bogdan is by Hermann Hahn, a
Pietruszka, Wiesław 17th-century Pomeranian
Szyślak, Robert artist. It was removed
Pepliński and from a house at
Elżbieta Szczo- Ulica Długa 39 and
drowska. It was Monument to the transferred to the
built by a team of Shipyard Workers Old Town Hall some
workers from the time after 1900.
shipyard. In the 1980s, the The theme of the ceiling
cross was the rallying point paintings is allegorical: the
for Solidarity demonstrations, central one depicts The Lord’s
which were suppressed by Blessing and a figure of
the police. Zygmunt III Vasa also appears.
Gdańsk Shipyard
4 . St Catherine’s The Gdańsk Shipyard is known throughout the world as the
Church birthplace of Solidarity (see p59). In December 1970, a shipyard
The memorial to workers’ strike and protests in the city were crushed by the
astronomer authorities. The next strike, in 1980, led to the establishment of
Johannes Hevelius the Independent Solidarity Trade Union. The strike leader was
(1611–87) was Lech Wałęsa, who was to become President of Poland (1990–95).
installed in 1780 Since 1989, in free market conditions, the shipyard has proved
by Daniel G. commercially unviable.
Davisson, his
great-grandson.
Key
Main entrance to the Gdańsk Shipyard
Suggested route
paintings by Anton displayed as they were being

Möller and Izaak van taken from Rome to Vadstena
den Blocke, the in Sweden. Soon afterwards a
Baroque memorials to monastery for the Sisters of St
various townspeople, Bridget was founded here. The
and the tombstone church built beside it was
of the astronomer completed in around 1514.
Johannes Hevelius, The brick shell of the Gothic
dating from 1659. church contrasts with the more
The tower, 76 m (250 ft) recent belfry, built in 1653 by
high, was first built in Peter Willer. The church’s stark
1486. Demol-ished in interior is an effective foil for the
1944 and later rebuilt, it modern altars, tombstones and
The Great Mill from the Raduna Canal is once again a major sculptures that it now contains.
landmark. It is well The most impressive of these
3 Great Mill worth climbing to the are the high altar and the
top of the tower; the monument to Father Jerzy
ul. Wielkie Młyny 16. Tel 58 305 24 05. effort is rewarded by Popiełuszko, who was murdered
Open 10am–7pm Mon–Fri, wonderful views of in 1984 by Polish security
10am–4pm Sat. 7 = e m the city. The service officials.
presbytery on
The Great Mill (Wielki Młyn) was the east side of
one of the largest industrial the church has 6 Polish Post Office
buildings in medieval Europe. It a fine late pl. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1/2.
was constructed during the rule Gothic gable. Post Office Museum: Tel 58 301 76 11.
of the Teutonic Knights, being Open 11am–3pm Tue, 10am–6pm
completed in around 1350. It is Wed–Fri & Sun (from 11am Sun). &
built in brick and is crowned by (free on Tue). ∑ mhmg.gda.pl
a tall, steeply pitched roof.
At the front of the building The Polish Post Office was the
stood a two-storey bakery with scene of some of the most
a chimney set against the gable dramatic events of the first
of the mill which reached the days of World War II. At
height of its roof. Beside the daybreak on 1 September
mill stood 12, later 18, large 1939, German troops attacked
poles to which millstones were the Polish Postal Administration
attached for grinding various that had its base here, in what
types of grain. The mill was Gothic tower of the Church of was then the free city of
destroyed by fire in 1945, but St Catherine Gdańsk. For 15 hours the
was restored after World War II. postal workers resisted the
This remarkable old building onslaught, but they were finally
now contains a modern 5 Church of overwhelmed. On 5 October
shopping centre. St Bridget more than 30 of them were
ul. Profesorska 17. Tel 58 301 31 52.
executed by Nazi soldiers at
4 Church of the Zaspa Cemetery. Their
The Church of St Bridget heroism is commemorated in
St Catherine (Kościół św. Brygidy) was well the Post Office Museum
ul. Profesorka 3. Tel 58 301 15 95. known in Poland in the 1980s and by a monument depicting
as a place of worship and an injured postal worker
The Church of St Catherine sanctuary for members of atop scattered mail, handing
(Kościół św. Katarzyny) is the Solidarity. It was built on over his rifle to Nike, Greek
oldest and also the most the site of a 14th-century goddess of victory. It was
important parish church in chapel dedicated to St Mary designed by Wincenty Kućma
the old town. It was built in Magdalene, where in in 1979 and bears an epitaph
1227–39 by the dukes of 1374 the remains written by Maria
Gdańsk-Pomerania and of the visionary and Zygfryd
underwent major rebuilding St Bridget Korpalski
in the 14th century. were in 1979.
Most of the Gothic, Mannerist
and Baroque furnishings that
the church once contained
were pillaged or destroyed
in 1945. The most notable
surviving pieces are the Monument to Father Jerzy Popiełuszko in the Church of St Bridget
GDAŃSK 243
8 Ulica Mariacka
Ulica Mariacka, regarded as
Gdańsk’s finest street, runs
eastwards from the Church of
St Mary to Długie Pobrzeże,
terminating at the Mariacka
Gate on the riverfront. Rebuilt
from the ruins that resulted
from World War II, the street
contains outstanding examples
of traditional Gdańsk
architecture. Here, town houses
that were once owned by
wealthy merchants and
goldsmiths have tall, richly
ornamented façades; others
are fronted by external raised
terraces with ornamented
parapets. It is small wonder
that this picturesque street
has for centuries inspired
writers and artists.
The neighbourly porch
gossip that once upon a time
Ulica Mariacka, once the haunt of writers and artists filled the evening air is, sadly,
no more. Today, however,
7 Gdańsk Crane out over Ulica Długie Pobrzeże, the street is a favourite haunt
ul. Szeroka 67/68. Maritime Museum: which runs alongside the of lovers as well as tourists,
Tel 58 301 69 38. Open Jul & Aug: River Motława. Once known most of whom are looking
10am–6pm daily; Sep–Nov: 10am– as the Long Bridge, it was for picturesque subjects to
4pm Tue–Sun; Dec–Jun: 10am–3pm originally a wooden foot- photograph or browsing
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 bridge that functioned as a through the amber jewellery
∑ nmm.pl quay where ships from all for which Ulica Mariacka is now
over the world tied up. celebrated. During the long
The Gdańsk crane (Żuraw), Today a fleet of yachts summer evenings, a number
icon of the city, is one of its and small pleasure boats of musicians provide free
finest buildings and a medieval offering trips around open-air concerts, and
structure almost unique in the harbour in the the welcoming street
Europe. Built in the 14th century Port of Gdańsk is cafés stay open until
and renovated in 1442–4, moored here. late at night.
when it acquired its present
appearance, it combined the
functions of a city gate and a
port crane.
The crane, an entirely wooden
structure, is set between two
circular brick towers. It was
operated by men working the
huge treadmills within, and was
capable of lifting weights of up
to 2 tonnes to a height of 27 m
(90 ft). The crane was used not
only to load and unload goods
but also in fitting masts to ships.
The crane was destroyed by
fire in 1945. As part of the
rebuilding programme after
World War II it was repaired and
reconstructed, together with its
internal mechanism. It is now
part of the collection of the
National Maritime Museum (see
p251). The Crane Tower looks The Gdańsk Crane, a medieval building almost unique in Europe
9 Church of St Mary
The Church of St Mary (Kościół Mariacki) is the
largest medieval brick-built church in Europe.
Building work began in 1343 and took 150 years to . Astronomical
Clock
complete. The final stage of construction, involving The clock, made by
the 100-m (325-ft) long nave, was carried out by Hans Dürunger in
Henryk Hetzel. From 1529 to 1945, when it was 1464–70, shows the
destroyed, St Mary’s was a Protestant church. Like hour and also the
days, dates of
so many other parts of Gdańsk, it was rebuilt after moveable feasts
World War II. The interior contains furnishings in the and phases of the
Gothic, Mannerist and Baroque styles. Look out for moon. At noon a
the memorial tablets to prominent local families. procession of figures
representing Adam
and Eve, the Apostles,
the Three Kings and
. Tablet of Charity Death appears.
This ornate panel, made
by Anton Möller in
1607, once hung over
the church collection
box. Its purpose was
to encourage
churchgoers to be
generous.
. Tablet of the Ten

Commandments
This panel of around
1480–90 depicts each of
the Ten Commandments
in two scenes, illustrating
obedience to, and
disregard of, the laws.
GDAŃSK 245
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 0 Royal Chapel

ul. św. Ducha 58. Tel 58 301 67 55.
ul. Podkramarska 5. Tel 58 301 39 The Royal Chapel (Kaplica
82. Open 9am–6:30pm (5pm in Królewska) was built by Jan III
winter) Mon–Sat, 1–6:30pm (5pm Sobieski as a place of worship
in winter) Sun. Tower: Open for Catholics of the parish of
9am–5pm daily (from 1pm Sun). St Mary’s, which had become a
& ∑ bazylikamariacka.pl
Protestant church in 1529. The
Baroque chapel was built in
1678–81 to designs by the
The Beautiful Madonna great royal architect Tylman
of Gdańsk van Gameren.
The Chapel of St The carving in the Kaplica
Anne contains this Królewska is by Andreas
15th-century figure of Schlüter the Younger. The
the Virgin and Child by chapel itself is enclosed within
an unknown artist. a chamber and is situated on a
raised floor. The interior is less
ostentatious than the façade.
Gothic Sacrarium
The sacrarium, in the
shape of an open-work
tower decorated with
pinnacles, is over The façade of the Dutch Mannerist Arsenal
8 m (26 ft) high. seen from Targ Węglowy
q Arsenal
ul. Targ Węglowy 6. Academy of
Fine Arts: Tel 58 301 28 01.
∑ asp.gda.pl
The Arsenal is the finest

example of the Dutch
Mannerist style in Gdańsk. It
was built, probably to plans
by Antonis van Opbergen in
collaboration with Jan
Strakowski, in 1600–9.
Today the ground floor
of the former weapons and
ammunition store is filled with
shops, while the Academy of
Fine Arts occupies the upper
Epitaph to Valentin von Karnitz storeys. The building has a
The memorial tablet to Valentyn von Karnitz, of around 1590, finely decorated façade, with
has many Dutch Mannerist features. The centre painting fascinatingly original carvings
depicts the biblical tale of the Lamentation of Abel. by Wilhelm Barth.
Street-by-Street: Długi Targ

and Ulica Długa
Długi Targ and Ulica Długa, its continuation, are the most
attractive streets in Gdańsk. Długi Targ leads westwards from
the Green Gate on the River Motława to join Ulica Długa, which
runs as far as the Golden Gate. These two pedestrianized streets
are lined with old town houses that were once the residences of
the city’s wealthiest citizens. Most of the Main City’s principal
buildings, including the town hall and Artus Court, are on Długi
Targ. Together the streets formed an avenue that was used for
parades, ceremonies and sometimes public executions and, from
1457, for the processions that accompanied royal visits – which is t St George’s Court
why the two streets were known as the Royal Way. Built for the patricians of
Gdańsk in 1487–98, the
name derives from the
exclusive Fraternity of St
George, whose seat it was.
KA
A
SK
AC
AR
TK
YK
w Highland Gate
KT
The gate, built in DŁ

UG
1574–5, has relief A
ZA
LE
decoration with
IC
TN
inscriptions and
LE
sculptures in the
WA
Italian Renaissance KA
TO
Y
and northern
AR
Mannerist style.
CZ
RB
PO
GA
r Golden Gate
This ceremonial gateway
to the city, made in 1612–
14 and surmounted by
allegorical sculptures,
embodies the spirit of
Gdańsk’s golden age.
e Prison Tower
This was once used to hold prisoners
sentenced to death. The tower
currently houses the Amber Museum.
u . Uphagen House
Key The interior of this restored town
Suggested route house features 18th-century
Rococo panelling, which survived
wartime destruction.
GDAŃSK 247
i . Main
Town Hall
The Allegory of Justice
by Hans Vredeman
de Vries decorates
the main council
chamber, also known
as the Red Room.
Locator Map
See pp238–9
p . Artus Court
The bench of the Brotherhood of St
Christopher, in this meeting house for
dignitaries, is adorned with the story
of Lot and his daughter by Laurentius
Lauenstein.
y Ulica Długa
Rebuilt after wartime
destruction, this is the main
street of old Gdańsk.
a Golden House
The unusual façade of the house was once
completely covered in gilt stone carvings.
A
SK
ER
NI
s Green Gate
ś
This building in
KU
DŁ the Mannerist
UG
I T style was the
A
AR
CZ
G official residence
NI
of the Polish
kings when they
W
łA
came to Gdańsk
KA
on state visits.
ŃS
ZA
ZC
ES
MI
Fountain of
Neptune
o Długi Targ
0 metres 100
When the street was rebuilt
0 yards 100 after World War II, the houses
and their stepped terraces
were reconstructed.
with statues carved by Piotr

Ringering in 1648 and
reconstructed after the originals
were damaged in World War II.
The statues on the outer side of
the gate, facing away from the
city, depict peace, freedom,
prosperity and glory, while
those on the inner side, facing
the city, represent prudence,
piety, justice and harmony.
The carved decoration is
complemented by inscriptions
in both Latin and German on
the theme of civic virtue. The
The Highland Gate, part of the new fortifications of 1571–6 whole gate was designed and
constructed in the Neo-
w Highland Gate In the 15th and 16th centuries, Classical style but with
ul. Wały Jagiellońskie. the tower was heightened Mannerist elements.
several times and the
The Highland Gate marks the surrounding buildings altered
beginning of the Royal Way accordingly. When the new
that, following Ulica Długa and fortifications were built in
Długi Targ, descends eastwards 1571–6 the entire complex
to the Green Gate (see p246). lost its purpose. It began to
It was built by Hans Kramer be used as a prison, court
of Saxony as part of the and torture chamber.
fortifications that were erected It was remodelled for its new
along the western limits of the purpose in 1604 by Antonis
city in 1571–6. Originally built van Opbergen, who gave it a
in brick, the gate acquired its northern Mannerist form, and
present appearance in 1588, by Willem van der Meer, who
when the Flemish architect added decorative detail. The
Willem van den Blocke faced tower was the scene of many
it with stone on its western blood-curdling interrogations.
side, making it look as if it were There is a whipping post on the
made of masonry blocks. western wall, which was also
The upper level is decorated the site of many executions. At The Golden Gate, so called because of the
with cartouches containing the turn of the 20th century, in gilding on its façade
coats of arms: that of Poland, accordance with the new
held by two angels (on the functions of the buildings, a
breast of the eagle the coat stonecutter’s workshop was t St George’s Court
of arms of Stanisław August, a installed in the courtyard. ul. Targ Węglowy 27. Closed to visitors.
bull calf, is visible) are flanked The Prison Tower now houses
by the Prussian coat of arms, the Amber Museum. The fraternity of St George, an
borne by unicorns, and those association of archers and the
of Gdańsk, borne by lions. oldest of its kind in medieval
r Golden Gate Gdańsk, originally met in Artus
ul. Długa. Court. However, in 1487 the
e Prison Tower fraternity acquired its own
ul. Długa–Przedbramie. Tel 58 301 The Golden Gate was built premises, St George’s Court,
47 33. Amber Museum: Open in 1612–14 on the site of the which was built under the
10am–3pm Tue, 10am–6pm Wed–Sat, medieval Ulica Długa Gate. direction of Hans Glothau in
11am–6pm Sun. & (free on Tue). The architect, Abraham van the Flemish style. It was
den Blocke, devised the new completed in 1494.
The mix of architectural styles in construction in the style of a The first floor contained
the Prison Tower is the result of classical Roman triumphal arch an archery range and
several rebuildings. The tower through which the Royal Way storerooms for archery
was originally built as part of would enter the city of Gdańsk. equipment. Members of the
the now-destroyed Ulica Długa The arches of the gate are fraternity met in the Great Hall
Gate that was erected in the framed by Ionic columns in on the first floor. The hall was
second half of the 14th century the lower tier surmounted by also used for ceremonies,
as part of the medieval composite columns in the meetings and banquets and
fortifications of the Main Town. upper tier. The gate is crowned for the performance of plays.
GDAŃSK 249
In 1566 it was crowned by a

figure of St George and the
Dragon, which was removed
and is now on display in the
National Museum (the figure
on the small tower is a copy). In
the 19th century the building
housed the School of Fine
Art. Today, Artus Court is the
premises of the Gdańsk
branch of the Association
of Polish Architects.
The Red Room in the Main Town Hall
u Uphagen House i Main Town Hall

ul. Długa 12. Tel 58 301 23 71. Part of ul. Długa 47. Museum of the History
the Museum of the History of Gdańsk: of Gdańsk: Tel 58 767 91 00.
Open 11am–3pm Tue, 10am–4pm Open 11am–3pm Tue, 10am–4pm
Wed–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun. & (free Wed–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun. & (free
Tue). ∑ mhmg.gda.pl Tue). d m ∑ mhmg.gda.pl
Looking down Ulica Długa from the The house that originally stood The city’s first town hall was
Golden Gate to Długi Targ at Ulica Długa 12 was acquired built after 1298 on the orders of
by Johann Uphagen, a town Świętopełk II, Duke of Gdańsk-
y Ulica Długa councillor, in 1775. He had it Pomerania. It functioned as an
demolished, and a new office of the Hanseatic League.
Today, as in the past, Ulica Długa residence was built in its place. Work on the current building
(“Long Street”) is the Main The architect, Johann Benjamin was begun in 1327. An elegant
Town’s principal thoroughfare. Dreyer, completed the project tower was added in 1486–8,
The houses that line the street in 1787. The result was an during one of several phases of
were once inhabited by the attractive building combining rebuilding. After a fire in 1556,
foremost burghers of Gdańsk, Baroque, Rococo and early this Gothic town hall was
and virtually every one has its Neo-Classical features. remodelled in the Mannerist
own colourful history. The sole ornamentation of style. The interior was lavishly
Although the oldest surviving the restrained façade is the decorated in 1593–1608 by the
houses on the street date Rococo decoration to the door, most prominent painters and
from the Middle Ages, most which is inscribed with the craftsmen of the day, including
were built during the heyday initial A, for Abigail, the owner’s Hans Vredeman de Vries, Izaak
of the Hanseatic League. wife. The interiors, featuring van den Blocke and Simon
With their narrow façades Rococo and Neo-Classical Herle. Their combined genius
crowned by a variety of elements, are splendid. produced one of the finest
elements – from coats of arms town halls in all of northern
and symbols to animals, Europe, proof of the city’s
allegorical figures and the wealth and power. It also
heroes of classical mythology – served as a royal residence.
the houses on Ulica Długa are The highlight of the town
typical of the architecture of hall is without doubt the Red
Gdańsk. Unfortunately, when Room, which was once the
they were modernized in the Great Council Chamber. The
mid-19th century, all the Renaissance fireplace is by
stepped terraces that originally Willem van der Meer and the
fronted the entrances to the centrepiece of the ceiling
houses were removed. paintings is the Apotheosis
After the carnage of World of Gdańsk by Izaak van den
War II, almost every building on Blocke. After being destroyed
Ulica Długa was left in ruins. in 1945, the town hall was
Many of the houses were later rebuilt and many of its
reconstructed, but only the furnishings reconstructed. It
finest buildings were rebuilt in The Rococo doorway of now houses the Museum of
architectural detail. Uphagen House the History of Gdańsk.
o Długi Targ court came to discuss the issues most impressive feature of the
of the day and to enjoy the fine house is its façade, which is
Długi Targ, a broad short street beer that was served there in covered in intricate gilt carvings,
that runs on from Ulica Długa unlimited quantities. The first and which fortunately escaped
and terminates at the Green Artus Court in Gdańsk the fires that ravaged the
Gate on the River Motława, was established in the building in 1945.
is the final part of the 14th century, but Today the building houses the
Royal Way leading from the original Maritime Institute. Local people
the Golden Gate building was claim that it is haunted; in one
through to the city destroyed by of the corridors the shining
centre. It also fire in 1477. The present figure of the former lady of the
functioned as a building opened in 1481. Its house, Maria Judyta Speimann,
marketplace as well rear elevation preserves is said to appear and can be
as a site for the public the building’s original heard whispering the words
execution of Gothic style, but the “A just deed fears no man”.
aristocratic prisoners. façade was twice rebuilt,
The town houses on first in 1552 and again in
Długi Targ, like those Fountain of 1616–17 by Abraham van
s Green Gate
elsewhere in the Neptune in Długi den Blocke. The interior ul. Długi Targ 24. Tel 58 307 59 12.
old town, were Targ furnishings were renewed Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
destroyed in 1945 several times, funded Sat & Sun. & ∑ mng.gda.pl
but have been restored. Today mainly by individual fraternities,
the square is filled with souvenir who would gather for meetings With its pinnacled roof and
shops. Its focal point is the seated on benches along the elaborate decorative stonework,
Fountain of Neptune, which walls of the court. Despite the Green Gate hardly
was installed outside Artus wartime destruction, resembles the usual city gate –
Court in 1633. reconstruction has succeeded it is more like a mansion. There
in re-creating something of the is good reason for this, because
court’s historic atmosphere. the gate was intended to serve
A highlight of the interior as a residence for visiting
is the intricately decorated royalty. In the event it was used
16th-century Renaissance in this way only once – when
tiled stove, 12 m (40 ft) high. Maria Louisa Gonzaga arrived in
Gdańsk from France in order
to marry Władysław IV in 1646.
a Golden House The gate was designed in the
ul. Długi Targ 41. Closed to the public. Mannerist style by the architect
Johann Kramer from Dresden,
The Golden House, also known and built in 1564–8 by Regnier
as Speimann House or Steffens from Amsterdam. Its windows
House after its owners, was built provide a magnificent view of
in 1609–18 for Jan Speimann, Ulica Długi Targ and the town
mayor of Gdańsk and a wealthy hall in one direction, and the
merchant and patron of the River Motława and Spichlerze
arts, and his wife Maria Judyta. Island in the other.
St George killing the Dragon, a carving The architect was Abraham van The Green Gate now houses
of 1485 in Artus Court den Blocke, who also executed a branch of the National
some of the stone carving. The Museum (see p253).
p Artus Court
ul. Długi Targ 44. Museum: Tel 58
767 91 80. Open 11am–3pm Tue,
10am–4pm Wed–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun.
& (free on Tue). ^ d = m
Artus Court was a meeting place

for the wealthy burghers of
Gdańsk, who were inspired by
the chivalrous traditions of King
Arthur and the Knights of the
Round Table. Similar fraternities
were set up throughout Europe,
and they were particularly
fashionable in the cities of the
Hanseatic League. Visitors to the The Green Gate, not only a city gate but also a royal residence
GDAŃSK 251
d National Maritime Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

In the 17th century Poland strove to be “master of Practical Information
the Baltic Sea” and her seafarers were dedicated to ul. Ołowianka 9–13. Tel 58 301 86
maintaining Poland’s maritime presence. The themes 11. Open 10am–6pm daily
(winter: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun).
of the displays in the Maritime Museum are Gdańsk’s Closed pub hols. & 7
seafaring traditions and navigation on the Vistula. ∑ nmm.pl
Exhibits include a reconstruction of scenes from a Transport
sailor’s life aboard the Swedish ship Solen, sunk at the @ 106, 111, 138
Battle of Oliwa in 1627 and raised from the seabed in
the Gulf of Gdańsk in 1970.
Period Gdańsk
This reconstruction of a
merchant’s office is in
the Harbour Town Life
exhibition. It is part of
the display in the
Gdańsk Crane.
Poles on the World’s Seas

The Granaries contain
waxwork exhibitions depicting
the lives of Poles at sea.
Sołdek
The Sołdek, the first
Polish ocean-going ship
Maritime to be built after World
Culture Centre War II, was built in the
Gdańsk Shipyard in 1948.
Its holds are now used
for exhibitions.
Museum Guide
The museum consists of several buildings
either side of the River Motława, with the
head office on Ołowianka Island. There is a
Polish naval exhibition in the Gdańsk
Crane. Skład Kolonialny hosts a collection
of boats from distant parts of the world.
The exhibition in the granaries is dedicated
to Poland and Gdańsk at sea from the
Middle Ages to the present.
Ferry
An easy way from one
building to another is by ferry.
. The Grain Warehouse

The naval weapons displayed here
include 17th-century Polish and
Key
Ruthenic cannons, as well as cannons
Suggested route from the Swedish warship Solen.
f Spichlerze Island theological college. The head

@ 106, 111, 112, 138, 166, 178, 186.
of the Franciscan order did not
v 8, 9. agree with the Gdańsk friars’
decision to cede the monastery
Once joined to the mainland, but the order’s petitions to the
Spichlerze Island was created Polish kings to have the
when the New Motława Canal property returned bore no
was dug in 1576. A centre of result. As a result, the church
trade developed here at the end was transferred to the
of the 13th century. What was Protestants. The grammar
then a relatively small number school that was established
of granaries had grown to more here later became the widely
than 300 by the 16th century. celebrated Academic Grammar
Each granary had a name and School. It also came to house
each façade was decorated with the first library in Gdańsk.
an individual emblem. The Chapel of St Anne, near the Church of the However, centuries later in 1945
purpose of digging the canal, Holy Trinity it was returned to the Catholics,
and thus of surrounding the after the violence of World War
district with water, was not only g Church of the II had reduced it to a ruin.
to protect the granaries against The aisled church has a
fire but also to safeguard their
Holy Trinity distinctive exterior with
contents against thieves. ul. św. Trójcy 4. Tel 58 320 79 80. ornamental Gothic spires.
Everything was destroyed in @ 106, 111, 112, 138, 166, 178, 186. They crown the elongated
1945. Today a main road bisects v 8, 9. presbytery, the façade and the
the island, and the charred walls of the adjacent Chapel of
stumps that can still be seen in The imposing Church of the St Anne. The presbytery, which
many places are all that remain Holy Trinity (Kościół św was occupied by the friars, was
of the granaries. The name signs Trójcy) was built by separated from the aisles by
on some ruins – such as Arche Franciscan monks in a wall. Interesting features
Noah (“Noah’s Ark”) on Ulica 1420–1514. In 1480, of the interior are the
Żytnia (“Wheat Street”) – remain the Chapel of St Anne many tombstones
legible. Reconstruction began was constructed that are set into the
several years ago. The first alongside the floor and the
granaries to be rebuilt were church. numerous works by
those between the Motława Protestantism Gdańsk artists. The
and Ulica Chmielna (“Hop quickly spread to very fine Gothic
Street”). One of them is now the Gdańsk, and one stalls were made by
headquarters of ZUS, the Polish of its most ardent local craftsmen in
social security organization. proponents in the Monkey from the stalls of 1510–11. Their
Restoration of a group of region was the the Church of the Holy Trinity carved decorations
buildings on Ulica Stągiewna Franciscan friar depict a wide variety
was completed in 1999. Two Alexander Svenichen. When of subjects, among them
16th-century Gothic castle congregations declined animals including a monkey, a
keeps, survivors of World War II, because of Svenichen’s lion fighting a dragon and
are in this street. They are activities, the Franciscans several birds.
known as the Stągwie Mleczne decided in 1556 to hand the The church contains the
(“Milk Churns”). monastery over to the city as a oldest surviving pulpit in
Gdańsk – it dates from 1541 and
is another remarkable example
of local woodcarving. In the
north aisle is the marble tomb
made by Abraham van den
Blocke in 1597 for Giovanni
Bernardo Bonifacio, Marquis
d’Orii, a restless spirit and
champion of the Reformation
who founded the Gdańsk library.
“Bones long since thrown
ashore here finally rest from
their earthly wanderings” reads
the poetic Latin inscription.
Beside the church is a half-
timbered galleried house dating
The Milk Churns, two medieval keeps on Spichlerze Island from the 17th century.
GDAŃSK 253
h National Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The National Museum is laid out mainly in a former Gothic Practical Information
Franciscan monastery of 1422–1522. It contains a wealth of ul. Toruńska 1. Tel 58 301 70 61.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Jun–
artifacts, from wrought-iron grilles to sculpture and painting. Aug: noon–7pm Thu; Oct–Apr:
The museum’s most prized piece is The Last Judgement by the 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm
Flemish painter Hans Memling (c.1430–94). In 1473, it was Sat, Sun). & (free Fri). 9 0
plundered by privateers ∑ mng.gda.pl
from Gdańsk from a Transport

ship bound for Italy. @ 106, 111, 112, 121, 138, 166,
178, 186 v 8, 9.
. The Last Judgement

Hans Memling painted this monumental
triptych in 1467–71. The left-hand side panel
represents the Gates of Heaven, while the
right-hand one shows the torments of Hell.
Museum Guide
The exhibits on the ground floor
include Gothic art and gold
jewellery. The first floor has more
recent paintings. The upper floor
displays temporary exhibitions.
“The
Griffin’s
Talons”
This bison-
horn cup Longcase Clock
was made A Rococo clock made
in the 15th c.1750 is decorated with
century and scenes from the biblical story
belonged to a of Tobias and the Raising of
sailing fraternity. the Copper Snake.
Key
Pomeranian medieval art
Goldsmithery
Metalwork
Gdańsk and northern European
furniture, 15th–18th centuries
Ceramics
Dutch and Flemish painting
Gdańsk painting, 16th–18th
centuries
Polish painting, 19th and 20th
centuries
19th-century Gdańsk artists
(temporary exhibitions)
Furniture-making in Gdańsk
and eastern Pomerania in the
18th century
The Last Judgement
j Oliwa Cathedral
Oliwa, a district to the northwest of Gdańsk, was
once the base of wealthy Cistercians, who built a
cathedral and monastery here. The present cathedral,
built in the 14th century in the Gothic style, replaced
the original 13th-century Romanesque church that
was destroyed by fire in 1350. While the exterior has
survived without major alteration, the interior has
been redecorated in the Baroque style. Its famous Mannerist Stalls
The stalls in the chancel, decorated
organ can be heard in recitals. The monastery with bas-reliefs of the Apostles, were
buildings are now occupied by branches of the made in 1604.
Diocesan, Ethnographical and
Contemporary Art museums.
Oliwa Park, with lakes and
wooded hills, is a pleasant
place for a walk.
Tomb of the Kos Family

The tomb was carved in
around 1599, probably
by the prominent
Gdańsk sculptor Willem
van den Blocke.
Main
entrance
. Organ Loft
The organ loft was made
KEY by local Cistercian monks in
1763–88. The organ, made
1 The former high altar, built by Jan Wulff and Fryderyk
in 1604–6, has a depiction of the Rudolf Dalitz and completed
Holy Trinity. in 1793, was the largest in
Europe at the time.
GDAŃSK 255
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST l Wisłoujście
Fortress
ul. Biskupa Edmunda ul. Stara Twierdza 1. Tel 58 531 22
Nowockiego 5. Tel 58 552 47 65. 44. @ 106, 606. Open Oct–Apr:
Open daily. Organ recitals: noon 9am–4pm daily. ∑ mhmg.gda.pl
Mon–Sat, 3pm Sun (Jun–Aug:
11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm, 4pm Fortifications were first built on
Mon–Sat, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Sun).
this strategic point at the mouth
Transport of the River Vistula in the time of
£ v 2, 6, 11, 12. @ 117, 122, the Teutonic Knights. Work on
169, 171, 179, 622. the construction of a brick
tower began in 1482. From
here, a duty was levied on
passing ships using a simple
enforcement method that was
The Monument to the Defenders of impossible to avoid – a chain
Westerplatte was stretched across the river,
preventing the ship’s passage,
k Westerplatte and released only when the
@ 106, 138, 606. Ferries in summer captain had made the required
season at Green Gate. Guardhouse payment. Equipped with a
Portrait Gallery
No. 1 Museum: ul. Mjr. H. brazier in which a fire was lit,
Portraits of Polish kings
and Pomeranian dukes, Sucharskiego. Tel 58 767 91 64. the tower was also used as
the founders and Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily (Jun– a lighthouse.
benefactors of the Sep: to 7pm). ∑ mhmg.gda.pl In 1562–3 the tower was
cathedral, hang in the surrounded by a system of
presbytery. It was at Westerplatte that the defences, and afterwards was
They were first shots of World War II were repeatedly fortified and
painted by fired, on 1 September 1939. The refortified as military technology
Hermann German battleship Schleswig advanced. In 1586–7 the entire
Hahn in 1613. Holstein opened fire on Polish complex was reinforced by four
ammunition dumps in the Free bastions, designed by Antonis
City of Gdańsk. The Germans van Opbergen and Jan
expected the capture of the Strakowski, and an outer moat
Westerplatte to take a matter of was added. This was followed
hours, but the 182-man garrison by the addition of a ditch in
under Major Henryk Sucharski 1624–6. Also in the 17th
resisted for seven days, their century, 15 tall barrack buildings
heroism becoming a symbol of were added around the now-
Polish resistance in the struggle ageing tower.
against the Nazi invasion. Over the following years,
Today, ruined barracks and constant building, often by
concrete bunkers, together prominent fortification engineers
with a huge Monument to the of the time, steadily enlarged the
Defenders of Westerplatte fortress. It withstood several
unveiled in 1966, bear witness sieges and was often used to
to that struggle. accommodate visiting royalty.
. High Altar
The altar itself is thought to be by
Andreas Schlüter. It was decorated
by Andreas Stech with images of
the Virgin and St Bernard, patrons
of the monastery at Oliwa. Wisłoujście Fortress, which once defended the mouth of the River Vistula
POMERANIA
Beautiful beaches and the resorts of the Baltic are
Pomerania’s main attractions, which every summer
draw large numbers of holiday-makers in search of
sand and sun. A less crowded but equally attractive
aspect of the region are the Drawsko Lakes and the
alpine scenery of Szwajcaria Kaszubska, west of Gdańsk.
Polish Pomerania is divided into the Pomerania became first Prussian, then
two regions of Western and Eastern German, territory. It was returned to
Pomerania, each with an ethnically Poland in 1945.
diverse population. The border between Eastern Pomerania was Christianized in
the two regions is in the districts of the 10th century. Although it originally
Bytów and Lębork. belonged to Poland, it became an
Christianity was introduced to Western independent duchy from the 12th
Pomerania by Bishop Otto of Bamberg, century. Overrun by the Teutonic Knights
who founded a bishopric in Wolin in 1140. in 1306, it then enjoyed strong economic
The Duchy of Pomerania, established in development. In 1466, after the Second
the 12th century, maintained its Peace of Toruń, areas of Eastern
independence for several centuries and Pomerania, including Royal Prussia, were
secured its economic development ceded to Poland. However, during the
through the strength of its port cities, Partitions of Poland (see p52), Eastern
which were part of the Hanseatic League. Pomerania became part of Prussia. It was
The Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) and the finally returned to Poland in 1919. Gdańsk
death of the last duke of the Gryfici was given the status of a free city and
dynasty brought this independence only became part of Poland in 1945.
to an end. Most of Western Pomerania Pomerania’s landscape was formed
came under the rule of Brandenburg, by the movement of glaciers. Its hilly
while Szczecin and the surrounding countryside with small, clear lakes
area was engulfed by Sweden until 1713. and its varied Baltic coastline make
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Western the region outstandingly beautiful.
Malbork Castle, the great fortress of the Teutonic Knights, on the River Nogat
A sandy beach fringed by pine trees along the Baltic Sea
Exploring Pomerania
Pomerania is one of Poland’s most attractive
regions, and in summer resorts such as
Międzyzdroje, Kołobrzeg, Ustka, Łeba
and Sopot teem with sunbathers and
watersports enthusiasts. The most popular
holiday spots are on the Hel Peninsula,
where swimmers can choose between the
open waters of the Baltic Sea or the calm
of the Gulf of Gdańsk. For sightseeing at
A half-timbered house, typical of the Gdańsk region,
a slower pace there are the villages of in Różyny
Kashubia. The shady, tree-lined lanes in the
region of Słupsk and Koszalin make for
enjoyable cycle tours, while the clean rivers
are attractive for canoeing. Those with an A
interest in history will not be disappointed S E
with the great variety of historic buildings,
DARŁOWO
from castles and cathedrals to small village C
churches and the stately houses of old L T I
seaside resorts. B A Koszalin
KOŁOBRZEG
Kamień
Pomeranian Pomorski Karlino Białogard
Getting Around Bay
D WOLIN Bobolice
Szczecin and Gdańsk can be OUN
Świnoujście AR
reached by air (see pp344–5). Wolin
Płoty Świdwin Polczyn-Zdrój
The best way to tour
Pomerania is by car. The E28 ZACHODNIO-POMORSKIE
connects Gdańsk with Słupsk,
DRAWSKO
Koszalin and Szczecin. Parallel Goleniów LAKES
Drawsko Czaplinek
to it but further to the south is Pomorskie
route 22, which is part of the Złocieniec
old German A1 from Berlin to SZCZECIN
Kaliningrad (Królewiec). The STARGARD Mirosławiec
E75 goes south from Gdańsk SZCZECIŃSKI
a
to Gniew. All larger towns and Ina Kalisz Wałcz

Od r
Pomorski
cities have rail links. In the Gulf Pyrzyce
Choszczno
of Gdańsk there are also
ferries to Sopot and Hel.
Lipiany
Chojna
Myślibórz Strzelce
Krajeńskie
Mieszkowice Dębno
Gorzów Wielkopolski
rt a
Kostrzyn Wa Poznań
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Fishermen’s buoys on a Baltic beach

POMERANIA 259
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
The lakes of Szwajcaria Kaszubska in autumn

SKI
WIŃ K
S Ł O N A L PA R Władysławowo
TI O
NA Łeba HEL
Lake PENINSULA
Lake Łebsko
Gardno Wejherowo Jurata
Ustka Hel
Lębork
GDYNIA
Gulf of
SŁUPSK SOPOT Gdańsk
Sławno Kartuzy
Gdańsk
Chmielno
Nowy Dwór
IA
Gdański
UB
SH
BYTÓW
KA
Kościerzyna Tczew
Miastko Wdzydze MALBORK

Kiszewskie
PELPLIN
Biały Bór POMORSKIE Sztum
Czersk GNIEW
KWIDZYN
a
tul
Szczecinek Br
d
Vis
Człuchów Chojnice
a
Gw d
Tuchola
Wd
Olsztyn
a
Kamień
Krajeński GRUDZIĄDZ
Jabłonowo
Świecie Pomorskie
Koronowo CHEŁMNO
Więcbork Brodnica
KUJAWSKO-POMORSKIE
Piła Chełmża
BYDGOSZCZ GOLUB-DOBRZYŃ
Poznań TORUŃ
Lipno
CIECHOCINEK
Vistu
Włocławek la
Łódź Płock
Sights at a Glance
1 Szczecin pp260–61 w Gdynia a Toruń pp276–9
3 Stargard Szczeciński e Sopot s Golub-Dobrzyń
4 Drawsko Lakes r Malbork pp270–71 d Ciechocinek
5 Kołobrzeg t Pelplin
6 Darłowo y Gniew
Tours
7 Słupsk u Kwidzyn 2 Around Wolin
8 Słowiński National Park i Grudziądz 0 Kashubia
9 Bytów o Chełmno pp274–5
q Hel Peninsula p Bydgoszcz

1 Szczecin
Szczecin, on the river Odra, is a major port even though it is
more than 65 km (40 miles) from the sea. It serves both
ocean-going vessels and river traffic, and is linked with Berlin
by the Odra and by canals. A castle and a fishing village
existed here in the 9th century. Szczecin was granted a
municipal charter in 1243 and soon after it joined the
Hanseatic League. It became the capital of a Pomeranian
duchy and in 1673–1713 was overrun by the Swedes. Under
Prussian rule it became a major port. The city suffered
severely during World War II; post-war restoration has
The Gate of Prussian Homage, once known
been confined to its more important buildings. as the Royal Gate
Terrace”) in honour of the mayor

who initiated it. One of the
buildings on the boulevard
houses the Maritime Museum.
From the terraces, with their
decorative pavilions and a
statue of Hercules Fighting the
Centaur by Ludwig Manzel,
there is a fine view of the
The Castle of the Dukes of Pomerania, rebuilt in the Renaissance style harbour below.
North of the castle stands
Exploring Szczecin offers a view of the Tower of Loitz House, a sumptuous late
The old town of Szczecin is the Seven Cloaks, the only Gothic town house built for the
picturesquely laid out on a remaining part of the city’s Loitz banking family in 1547.
steep escarpment. The large medieval fortifications. Across Further down, among the newly
Castle of the Dukes of the road is the Gate of Prussian built town houses in the old
Pomerania was founded in the Homage, formerly the Royal style, is the mainly 15th-century
mid-13th century and was Gate, one of a pair that was Baroque town hall. It houses the
rebuilt in the Renaissance style built under Swedish rule Szczecin History Museum. The
by Guglielmo di Zaccharia in in 1726–8. The architect was Cathedral of St James (Katedra
1575–7. It consists of five wings, Gerhard Cornelius de Wallrawe, św. Jakuba) was also rebuilt after
with two interior courtyards and and the sculptor Berhold almost complete wartime
two towers. The east wing dates Damart. North of the castle is destruction; only the presbytery
from the 17th century. After the red-brick late Gothic Church and west tower survived the
damage suffered during World of Saints Peter and Paul bombing. It was originally
War II, the castle was almost (Kościół św. Piotra i Pawla), while erected in stages from the late
completely rebuilt and its once- further along the banks of the 13th to the 15th centuries, with
magnificent interior re-created. Odra is Ulica Wały Chrobrego. the involvement of the architect
The basement of the east wing This boulevard, an impressive Heinrich Brunsberg. The
houses the Castle Museum. In a municipal project of 1902–13, cathedral has several Gothic
Baroque building near the castle was known in German times as altars originating from other
is the main section of the the Hakenterrasse (“Haken’s churches in Pomerania. From the
National Museum. The castle
balcony overlooks the Odra and
Ulica Wały Chrobrego, with the Maritime Museum and local government offices in the distance
POMERANIA 261
cathedral it is possible to walk Pomerania. Among the many VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

southwards towards the Gothic interesting exhibits are the
Church of St John (Kościoł displays of Gothic ecclesiastical Practical Information
św. Jana), founded by the art and jewellery and the Road map A2. * 407,000.
Franciscans, or to wander ornate costumes of n Castle: ul. Korsarzy 34.
through the part of the city Pomeranian princes. Tel 91 489 16 30.
stretching out to the west that Harbour boat trips: ul. Jana z
was built in the late 19th century. E Maritime Museum Kolna 7. Tel 91 434 55 61.
_ International Passion Music
Many town houses and villas in a ul. Wały Chrobrego 3. Tel 91 431 52 67.
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Sat; Festival (Mar); Days of the Sea
variety of styles have been
10am–8pm Thu; 10am–4pm Sun. (late Jun). ∑ szczecin.pl
preserved here, and the area has
numerous bars and restaurants. & (free on Sat). 7 ∑ muzeum. Transport
szczecin.pl k 33 km north in Goleniów.
E National Museum The museum’s principal theme £ ul. Kolumba. Tel 91 946
ul. Staromłyńska 27. Tel 91 431 52 00. is the history of seafaring in the 00 11. @ pl. Grodnicki.
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Sat; Baltic sea. The archaeological Tel 91 434 66 25.
10am–8pm Thu; 10am–4pm Sun. & displays include amber and
(free Sat). 7 ∑ muzeum.szczecin.pl silver jewellery and a medieval
The museum’s extensive boat. There are also models of
collections comprise artifacts ships, nautical instruments and
mainly from Western an ethnographical section.
Boats and fishing vessels are
displayed in a skansen behind
the museum.
E Castle Museum
ul. Korsarzy 34. Tel 91 489 16 30.
Open 10am–6pm Fri–Wed. 8
∑ zamek.szczecin.pl
This museum is housed in
the former crypt of the dukes
of Pomerania. Among the Portal of the Cathedral of St James
exhibits are the tin coffins of
the last of the Gryfici dynasty, E Szczecin History Museum
and a special exhibition on the ul. Mściwoja 8. Tel 91 431 52 59. Open
Loitz House, once the home of a history and the restoration of 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Sat; 10am–8pm
family of bankers the castle. Thu; 10am–4pm Sun. & (free Sat).
Szczecin City Centre

Żeromski
1 National Museum Park
2 Gate of Prussian Homage O
W
A
W
O EL
EG
3 Church of Saints Peter and Paul EG SK

KI
SZ ŻN A
ŃS
C BO I TA
4 Maritime Museum ZE
ZY
RB PO W
RO
AR
PLAC C
AD A M A O JA
5 Tower of the Seven Cloaks
ST
W
MI C KI E W I C Z A A
Maritime
6 Castle of the Dukes of
ILA
Museum
A
MA
YK
OF
ŁO
O
PLAC
Pomerania PO
NR
TE
EG
ŻOŁNIERZA LS
HE
KA
BR
POLSKIEGO
7 Loitz House
RO
CI
Church of
CH
Gate of
A
SK A
OR
LN
8 Town Hall
OŚ
National Prussian Saints Peter

Y
KO
D
AŁ
AN
Museum Homage and Paul

GŁ
9 Cathedral of St James
Z
OM
CK
SKA
LE
KA
NA
K
RIA
OD
AC
YŃ
JA
A
MŁ
MA
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TK
Castle of the Dukes

RN
RO
KOŃ
FA
of Pomerania
.N
SKI
S TA
K IE R TR
AL
AT AS
PLAC A
S IA
GR KU
OD ORŁA ŚN ZA
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BIAŁEGO IER M
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A Tower of the K O W
SO
Cathedral of Loitz Seven Cloaks A

St James House
IE
WY A RYNEK
CK
Bus station
KURKOW
SZY NOWY
LE
300 m (340 yards)

ŃS Town Hall
IE
Train station KI W
EG A A E
500 m (550 yards) O OJ SK E Ż
IW NA AŃ R Z
ŚC N RZ A B
M
S IE OD N
KA
Church of IEL
0 metres 300 W
a
St John dr
O
0 yards 300

2 Around Wolin 4 Wolin National Park

Apart from its beaches
Wolin’s forests, deserted sandy and lakes, the park is
beaches and picturesque, sometimes known for its bison,
which can be seen in a
dramatic, coastal cliffs delight walkers special reserve. The bird
and inspire photographers. Wolin life includes the rare
also has plenty to offer those with sea eagle. Lake
an interest in historic buildings – Koprowo
the cathedral in Kamień Pomorski J •
J Kołczewo
is one of the finest in Poland.
3 Międzyzdroje
This renowned
health resort was
Lake Wicko
created in 1830. It has Wielkie
a seafront promenade J
and a pier from which J
the cliffs can be
admired. It is also a J
good base for hiking
in Wolin National Park.
1 Wolin
2 Świnoujście In the early Middle
The town straddles Ages this small town
Poland’s two islands – was a major Baltic
Wolin and Uznam. The port. Today it is the
only way of moving venue for the Viking
between the two parts of Festival that takes
the town is by ferry. It has place every July as a
a large port, wide beaches reminder of the
and the elegant buildings settlement’s historic
of a coastal resort. importance (see p39).
3 Stargard mid-15th century. The rich Szczeciński is to visit the café

decoration of glazed and in the former salt granary, a
Szczeciński moulded brick is quite striking. Gothic building overlooking
Road map B2. * 71,000. £ @ The magnificent town hall, a spur of the Ina.
n Rynek Staromiejski 4 (91 578 54 built in the 16th century and The Regional Museum
66). ∑ stargard.pl then remodelled in 1638, has has some militaria and an
a gable with intricate tracery. archaeological and
With its own port in the A particularly pleasant way to ethnographical display.
Szczecin Lagoon at the mouth round off a trip to Stargard
of the River Ina, Stargard E Regional Museum
Szczeciński once rivalled Rynek Staromiejski 3. Tel 91 578 38 35.
Szczecin as a merchant town Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri & Sun (Oct–
of the Hanseatic League. Apr: to 4pm), 10am–2pm Sat. &
Almost three-quarters of the
old town was destroyed during
World War II, although the
4 Drawsko Lakes
Gothic defensive walls with Road map B2.
their towers and gates survived.
The town’s finest building is The Drawsko Lakes are an oasis
the Gothic Church of St Mary of quiet, unspoiled scenery.
(Kościół Mariacki), which was Their crystal-clear waters teem
founded in the late 13th with fish and, in season, the
century but only given its forests are carpeted with
present appearance by Interior of the Gothic Church of mushrooms. The area is ideal for
Heinrich Brunsberg in the St Mary in Stargard Szczeciński a canoeing or rowing holiday.
POMERANIA 263
Key
Tour route
Lake Other road
Wrzosowskie
• Międzywodzie Trzebiatów
Kamienski
Lagoon
W oł cz a
Gryfice
Ni
em
0 km 5
ica
0 miles 5
Kukułowo
6 Kamień Pomorski
•
W
oł
cz The town was the seat
en
nica
ica
of a bishopric from
zyb
5 Dziwnów 1176. Its widely admired

Gr
A swing bridge cathedral contains a

Lake Piaski across the River well-preserved
Dziwna links collection of fine late
Wolin Island with Gothic murals as well
the mainland. as famous organs.
Goleniów
Tips for Drivers

Tour length: 103 km (65 miles).
Stopping-off points: Plenty of
good cafés and restaurants are
to be found in Kamień Pomorski
and Międzyzdroje.
Additional features:
Golf course at Kołczewie.
Bison reserve: Open May–Sep: 7 Świerzno
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: The modest timber-frame palace here was built for the Fleming
8am–4pm Tue–Sat. family in 1718–30. In the 17th century the family also founded the
timber-framed church that stands nearby.
5 Kołobrzeg crowded with holiday-makers.

Road map B1. * 46,000. £ @ The brick-built Cathedral of
n ul. Armii Krajowej 12 (94 355 13 the Virgin Mary (Katedra NMP)
20). _ Kołobrzeg Summer Music was begun in 1255 and later
Festival. ∑ kolobrzeg.turystyka.pl altered and extended. Among
the remarkable objects it
The fine sandy beaches of contains is a chandelier
Lake Drawsko, the second-deepest Kołobrzeg make it one of made by Johann
lake in Poland the most popular health Apengheter of Lübeck
resorts on the Baltic in 1327 depicting the
The largest of the lakes is coast. It has a full Virgin and St John the
Drawsko, on whose shores complement of hotels, Baptist. The Neo-Gothic
stands Stare Drawsko, with sanatoria, holiday town hall was built
ruins of a once-impressive homes and fried-fish by the Berlin architect
14th-century Teutonic Knights’ stalls, but it is also a Karl Friedrich Schinkel
castle. In the delightful spa working fishing port. in 1829–32. It is
town of Polczyn Zdrój the In the past it was a surrounded by alleys
mineral springs are surrounded fortified coastal lined with old
by a park and there are some town of strategic houses. The
elegant early 20th-century significance. fortress, now
sanatoria. Złocieniec has an In summer in ruins, was
outstanding example of the long unsuccessfully
Baroque architecture in the promenade, besieged by
form of a palace that was leading to the The sturdy brick-built lighthouse Napoleon’s
built here in 1704–45. lighthouse, is in Kołobrzeg harbour troops in 1807.
6 Darłowo
Road map B1. * 14,300. @ £
n ul. Zamkowa 4 (94 314 35 72).
∑ darlowo.pl
Darłowo, set 2.5 km (1.5 miles)

inland on the banks of the
River Wieprza, is one of the
most attractive towns of
coastal Pomerania. In summer
the waterfront district swarms Shifting dunes in Słowiński National Park
with tourists and the fish stalls
do a brisk trade, but the town’s 7 Słupsk of St Mary (Kościół Mariacki) is
real charm lies in its old Road map C1. * 93,000. @ £ also of interest.
riverside district, where there n ul. Starzyńskiego 8 (59 842 43 26).
are many historic buildings. _ International Festival of Organ E Museum of Central Pomerania
The most prominent of these Music (Jun–Aug). ∑ slupsk.pl ul. Dominikańska 5/9. Tel 59 842 40
is the Gothic Castle of the 81. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Dukes of Pomerania. Founded From 1368 to 1648, this town on (free Sat). 8 ∑ muzeum.slupsk.pl
in the 14th century, it was the River Słupia was the capital
rebuilt several times and of the Duchy of Western
partially demolished in the Pomerania. The Renaissance
19th century; its surviving ducal castle was built by
parts now house a museum. Antonio Guglielmo di Zaccharia
The castle is associated with in 1580–87. Today it is the
Erik of Pomerania, the warlike Museum of Central Pomerania,
Duke of Słupsk, whose royal which, besides items of local
blood enabled him, in 1397, to interest, has the country’s
hold the thrones of Denmark, largest collection of portraits by Effigy of Anna de Croy in the Church
Sweden and Norway. His the painter and writer Stanisław of St Hyacinthus
turbulent rule was marked by Ignacy Witkiewicz (1885–1939),
constant warfare. He was finally better known as Witkacy.
8 Słowiński
deposed and returned to The watermill opposite the
Darłowo, where he established castle, dating from about 1310, National Park
the Duchy of Słupsk, crowning is one of the oldest in Poland. Road map C1. @ Tel 59 811 72 04.
himself Erik I, and retaining his Now a branch of the museum, ∑ slowinskipn.pl
rule over Gotland. He was it houses an ethnographical
buried in the Church of St Mary collection. In the Dominican Słowiński National Park is
(Kościoł Mariacki), and his Church of St Hyacinthus (Kościół renowned for its large, shifting
sarcophagus, made in 1888, św. Jacka) nearby are the black sand dunes, which move at a
can be seen here in the marble and alabaster tombs of rate of about 9 m (30 ft) a year,
sepulchral chapel. Erik may Bogusław de Croy, the last of leaving the stumps of dead
also have been the founder the dukes of Pomerania, and trees behind them. The area
of the late Gothic Chapel of his mother, the Duchess Anna was once a gulf, of which the
St Gertrude (Kaplica św. de Croy. They were carved by glacial lakes Łebsko and
Gertrudy) on Ulica Tynickiego, Kasper Gockhaller of Gdańsk in Gardno are vestiges. The park, a
an unusual 12-sided building. 1682. The 14th-century Church World Biosphere Reserve, is a
haven for wild birds; more than
250 species, including the rare
sea eagle, are found here.
The park’s highest point,
Rowokół, offers a fine view is the
village of Smołdzino, which has
a small Baroque church founded
by Duchess Anna de Croy in the
17th century.
In the hamlet of Kluki, on
Lake Łebsko, is a skansen
dedicated to the ancient local
Slovincian culture. Fishing
equipment and agricultural
implements are exhibited in
the farmsteads. An electric train
The castle of Erik of Pomerania, Duke of Słupsk, in Darłowo runs to the park from Rąbka,
POMERANIA 265
near the resort of Łeba. The

town of Nowęcin, also near
Łeba, has a Neo-Gothic palace
built for the Wejher family in
1909. It now houses a hotel
and restaurant.
Timber-framed fishermen’s cottages in Jastarnia, on the Hel Peninsula
wing was added in about 1570. to Hel was completed in 1922,

It houses the Museum of resorts began to appear on the
Western Kashubia, which peninsula. Their main attraction
contains a collection of artifacts was the double beach – one
relating to the ancient part facing the sea, the other
Kashubian culture. the Gulf of Gdańsk. At the base
of the peninsula is the town of
E Museum of Western Kashubia Władysławowo, named after
Corner tower of the Gothic castle of the ul. Zamkowa 2. Tel 59 822 26 23. Władysław IV, who founded a
Teutonic Knights in Bytów Open Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily; now-vanished fortress here.
May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily (to 4pm Today the town’s boundaries
9 Bytów Mon). & (free on Mon). embrace many resorts, such as
∑ muzeumbytow.pl
Road map: C1. * 17,000. £ @ Jastrzębia Góra, Cetniewo and
n ul. Zamkowa 2 (59 822 68 39). Chałupy. Jastarnia is the most
∑ bytow.pl popular resort, as it still retains
0 Kashubia many of its original fishermen’s
Bytów, with nearby Lębork, See p268. cottages. The elegant resort
was the westernmost outpost of Jurata was established in
of the territory held by the 1928; Modernist hotels dating
Teutonic Knights. The town, q Hel Peninsula from the 1930s can be seen
which after its conquest in Road map D1. @ £ n Hel, ul. here. At the very end of the
1466 was established as a Wiejska 78 (58 675 10 10); Jastarnia, peninsula is the fishing port
Polish fiefdom, was ruled by ul. ks. Pawła Stefańskiego 5 (58 675 and tourist resort of Hel, with its
the dukes of Pomerania, and 23 40). ∑ jastarnia.pl towering lighthouse and timber-
later by Brandenburg and framed fishermen’s cottages.
Prussia. It has been part of The Hel Peninsula is about 34 The former Protestant church,
Poland since 1945. km (22 miles) long and in width built in the 1400s, is now the
Few of Bytów’s historic ranges from just 200 m (650 ft) Fisheries Museum. From Hel,
buildings survive. The most to 3 km (2 miles). It is made up passenger and tourist boats
interesting is the castle of the of sandbanks formed by sea cross to Gdynia and Gdańsk.
Teutonic Knights, which was currents; in the 1700s it was
built in 1390–1405 and was one no more than a chain of islets. E Fisheries Museum
of the first castles in Europe to The peninsula is now the Hel, ul. Bulisar Nadmorski 2.
be adapted for the use of Nadmorski Park Krajobrazovy, Tel 58 675 05 52. Closed for
firearms. It has four circular an area of outstanding natural renovation. Visit the website for the
corner towers and a residential beauty. When the railway line latest information. ∑ nmm.pl
The narrow Hel Peninsula, separating Puck Bay from the Baltic Sea
0 Kashubia
A trip to the part of Kashubia known as Szwajcaria
Kaszubska (“Kashubian Switzerland”) is a chance to
experience the culture of a people who have inhabited
this area for centuries. The Kashubian Museum in
Kartuzy has a collection of original embroidery, toys
and snuffboxes carved from horn, there are working 1 Kartuzy
potteries in Chmielno and in Wdzydze Kiszewskie there The town takes its name from
is a skansen with traditional Kashubian cottages. the Carthusians, who founded a
monastery here in the 1380s. The
2 Chmielno
collegiate church still stands. The
This village has several Kashubian Museum re-creates
workshops producing the daily life of the region.
traditional Kashubian
pottery. Potters can be Wejherowo
seen at work, and their
products are for sale.
3 Kashubian Park Gdańsk

J J
Krajobrazowy
The national park in Szwajcaria
Kaszubska offers some
Lake Raduńskie Dolne
breathtaking views from the J Radunia
summit of its moraine hills. Klukowska
Huta Lake Ostrzyckie
•
Lake Raduńskie Górne
Stężyca 6 Wieżyca
At 331 m (1,090 ft)
above sea level, this
is the highest point
Bytów
in Kashubia. Its
Gdańsk slopes are popular
for skiing in winter.
4 Wdzydze Kiszewskie Key

As well as traditional Tour route
peasant farmsteads, this
skansen has a windmill, Other road
an inn, a school and a
small church.
Zblewo
Wdzydze
Tucholskie
•
Tips for Drivers Lake Wdzydze
Tour length: 120 km (75 miles).

Stopping-off points: There are
bars and restaurants in Kartuzy, 0 km 5
Chmielno and Kościerzyna.
0 miles 5
Places of interest: Kashubian
Museum, Kartuzy. Tel 58 681
14 42. Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri,
9am–3pm Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 5 Kościerzyna
Closed Oct–Apr: Sun. & 8 = Although not in itself a scenic
∑ muzeum-kaszubskie.gda.pl town, Kościerzyna is a good
Kashubian Pottery Museum, stopping place on a tour of
Chmielno. Tel 58 684 22 89. Kashubia. A monument to
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat. Józef Wybicki, author of the Polish
national anthem, stands in the town.
Fishing boats at the beach in Sopot For keys to symbols see back flap
POMERANIA 269
the town’s most important e Sopot

landmarks. There are two Road map D1. * 37,900. £ @
floating museums by the quay, n Plac Zdrojowy 2 (58 550 37 83).
the ships Błyskawica and Dar Open 9am–9pm daily (Sep–Jun: to
Pomorza. The Błyskawica is a 7pm). _ International Festival of
destroyer that saw action in Song (Aug). ∑ sopot.pl
World War II alongside Allied
forces in Narvik, Dunkirk and Sopot is the most popular resort
during the Normandy landings. on the Baltic coast. It was
Dar Pomorza is a three-masted established as a sea-bathing
training vessel, built in 1909 centre in 1824 by Jean Georges
and decommissioned in 1981. Haffner, a physician in the
It was replaced by the Dar Napoleonic army who chose a
Młodzieży, which can spot on the coast that since the
sometimes also be seen 17th century had been favoured
moored in the port. At the by the wealthy burghers of
end of the pier is a statue of the Gdańsk for their mansions. Its
writer Joseph Conrad (1857– heyday came in the interwar
The three-masted training ship Dar 1924), who was born in Poland years, when it attracted some of
Młodzieży moored in Gdynia as Teodor Josef Konrad the richest people in
Korzeniowski. Beyond Europe. The pier is a
w Gdynia the pier stands the continuation of the
Road map D1. * 247,000. £ @
Aquarium Gdyńskie. main street, Ulica
n ul. 10 Lutego 24 (58 622 37 66). _ You can walk along Bohaterów Monte
Days of the Sea (Jun); Festival of Polish Gdynia’s seafront Cassino, colloquially
Feature Films (Oct). ∑ gdynia.pl promenade all known as Monciak. The
the way to the pier is 512 m (1,680 ft long)
Gdynia, until 1918 a small islet of Kępa and the bench running
fishing village, is one of the Redłowska. A all the way around it is
most recently developed wander around the longest in Europe.
towns in Poland. When, after the city’s The pier is filled with
World War I, Poland regained shopping area, bars, restaurants and
independence but did not with its boutiques cake shops as well as
control the port of Gdańsk, the and bars, is equally Fish: street ornament antique shops and
authorities decided to build a enjoyable. in Gdynia boutiques selling amber.
major port at Gdynia. During It is a pleasant place to
World War II Gdynia and its E Aquarium Gdyńskie enjoy a beer and the sea air.
shipyard were used by the al. Jana Pawła II 1. Tel 58 732 66 01. An alternative is coffee at the
Open Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily;
German Kriegsmarine, and Grand Hotel, built in 1924–7,
Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm daily (Jun–Aug:
the town was renamed which overlooks the beach.
to 9pm). ∑ akwarium.gdynia.pl
Gotenhafen by the Germans. This splendid Neo-Baroque
A landmark in Gdynia’s post- P ORP Błyskawica building once housed a casino.
war history came in December al. Jana Pawła II. Tel 58 626 37 27. The town’s narrow streets
1970, when striking workers Open May–Oct: 10am–1pm, 2–5pm hide many delightful
were fired on by the militia. Tue–Sun. ∑ muzeum.mw.pl guesthouses. In the wooded
In 1980 a monument in their P Dar Pomorza hills behind the town is the
honour was erected. al. Jana Pawła II. Tel 58 620 23 71. Opera Leśna (“Opera in the
A walk along the Northern Open Sep–May: 10am–4pm Woods”), built in 1909 and the
Pier offers an overview of the Tue–Sun; Jun–Aug: 10am–6pm daily. venue of the International Song
port at work and a sight of ∑ nmm.pl Festival (see p39).
The Grand Hotel in Sopot, overlooking the beach and the Gulf of Gdańsk
r Malbork
Malbork, the castle of the Teutonic Knights, was begun
in the 13th century. In 1309 it was made capital of an
independent state established by the order. The first
major phase of building was the Assembly Castle, a
fortified monastery later known as the Upper Castle.
The Middle Castle was built some time after 1310, and
the Palace of the Grand Master was begun in 1382–99
by Konrad Zöllner von Rotenstein. In 1457 the castle was
taken by Poland and used as a fortress. It was restored
in the 19th century, and again after World War II.
Summer Refectory
It has double rows of windows
and late Gothic palm vaulting
supported on a granite central
column. The Winter Refectory
adjoins it on its eastern side.
. Palace of the
Grand Master
The grandeur of the
four-storey palace
was almost without
equal in medieval
Europe.
. Golden Gate
Built in the late 13th century,
this gate is enclosed by a
porch. The keystone in the
vaulting is carved with the
figure of Christ.
KEY Cloistered Courtyard

The inner courtyard of
1 Upper Castle
the Upper Castle is
2 Church of St Mary is presently surrounded by slender
being restored but is open to visitors. Gothic arches with
triangular vaulting.
POMERANIA 271
Road map D1. * 40,000.
n ul. Kościuszki 54 (55 647 14
30) (summer). Castle Museum:
ul. Starościńska 1. Tel 55 647
Lower Castle
09 78. Open 9am–7pm daily
These partly reconstructed farm buildings, abutting the former
(Oct–Apr: 10am–3pm). Closed
Chapel of St Lawrence, have been converted into a hotel.
1 Jan, 8 Apr, 1 Nov, 25 Dec.
Courtyard: Open 1 hr longer.
& 8 0 = m Son et
Lumière show: 1 May–15 Sep.
∑ zamek.malbork.pl
Transport
@£
Battlements
A good view of the towers and walls surrounding
the castle can be had from the east side.
Teutonic Knight
The Teutonic Knights,
or the Knights of the
Teutonic Order of the
Hospital of St Mary in
Jerusalem, had a strict
monastic code. In battle
they were distinguished
by the black crosses on
their white cloaks.
Chapel of St Anne
Built in 1331–44 beneath the
choir of the Church of St Mary,
this chapel contains the tombs
of eleven Grand Masters.
which the Holy Ghost is y Gniew

depicted not as the customary
Road map: D2. * 6,700. £ @
dove but as a man. Other fine _ International Tournament for
pieces include the 17th-century the Sword of Sobieski (May/Jun).
Mannerist and Baroque altar ∑ gniew.pl
and a pulpit supported on a
figure of Samson in combat This pretty little town on the
with a lion. There are several River Vistula retains a medieval
paintings by Hermann Hahn, atmosphere. Founded by the
including a large Coronation of Teutonic Knights in 1276, it was
the Virgin on the high altar. The later the seat of a commander
monastery was dissolved in of the order and in 1466
1823, and in 1824 the church became part of Poland.
became the Cathedral of the The town’s narrow alleys lead
Virgin Mary (Katedra NMP). into the Market Square, which
The monastery buildings now is lined with arcaded buildings.
accommodate the Diocesan While most date from the 18th
Museum, whose carved gallery century, some, like the town hall,
The Altar of St Mary in the south contains a handsome collection have Gothic elements. Traces of
aisle in Pelplin cathedral of ecclesiastical art as well as the 14th- to 15th-century
illuminated manuscripts. The fortifications that once protected
t Pelplin most highly prized exhibits Gniew from invaders still remain.
Road map: D2. * 8,200. are a Madonna cabinet from The Gothic Church of St
£ @ ∑ pelplin.pl Kolonówka, a rare original Nicholas (Kościół św.
Gutenberg Bible of 1435–55 Mikołaja) towers over the
The beautiful Cistercian abbey and a 17th-century town. Probably built
at Pelplin is one of the finest musical manuscript, in the first half of
examples of Gothic architecture the Pelplin Tabulature the 14th century,
in Poland. Work on the for Organ. A range of it retains its
monastery began in 1276, when goldwork and liturgical magnificent interior,
the Cistercians came to Pelplin. objects are also which includes
The brick-built church, now a displayed in the Gothic vaulting and
cathedral, dates largely from cathedral treasury. Mannerist, Baroque
the 14th century, although its and Neo-Gothic altars.
late Gothic vaulting was not R Cathedral of the The town’s most
completed until the late 15th Virgin Mary distinctive feature is the
and early 16th centuries. The pl. Mariacki. Tel 58 536 15 64. castle of the Teutonic
imposing triple-naved basilica Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. Knights. This imposing
has no tower, and the west and &8 fortress was begun in
east fronts are almost identical. E Diocesan Museum Samson fighting a lion, 1283 and completed in
The interior contains an ul. ks. Biskupa Dominika Pelplin Cathedral the mid-14th century.
outstanding collection of finely 11. Tel 58 536 12 21. The castle has a regular
crafted furnishings, including Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, plan, with four corner turrets and
Gothic stalls with a rare carving 10am–5pm Sat. Closed on religious the remains of a mighty keep in
of the Holy Trinity in feast days. & 8 the northeastern corner.
Gniew seen from the River Vistula, framed by the Church of St Nicholas and the castle of the Teutonic Knights
POMERANIA 273
i Grudziądz
Road map: D2. * 97,000. £ @
n 56 461 23 18. ∑ grudziadz.pl
Grudziądz, situated on an
escarpment overlooking the
River Vistula, was once a major
port. It was founded by the
Teutonic Knights and became
part of Poland in 1466. As a
result of the Partitions of
Poland, it became part of
Prussia from 1772 and in 1918
was returned to Poland.
Despite the damage it suffered
Kwidzyn Cathedral, seat of the bishops of Pomerania in the 13th century during World War II, the town
has some fine buildings. The
In summer the castle hosts including a late Gothic bishop’s Gothic Church of St Nicholas
festivals, jousting tournaments throne of about 1510 and (Kościoł św. Mikołaja) was
and reconstructions of Baroque altars and tombs. The begun in the late 13th century
medieval banquets. presbytery gives access to the and completed in the second
tiny cell of the Blessed Dorothy half of the 15th. It contains a
E Castle Museum of Mątowy, who ordered that late Romanesque font from
ul. Zamkowa 3. Tel 58 535 25 37. she be immured there in 1393. the 14th century. The former
Open Apr–Nov: 10am–4:30pm By the north nave is the Benedictine abbey, including
Tue–Sun. 8 0 Baroque chapel of Otto the Palace of the Abbesses of
∑ zamek-gniew.pl Frederick von Groeben, which 1749–51, is also of interest. Part
R Church of St Nicholas contains a tomb depicting the of the abbey now houses a
ul. Okrzei 4. Tel 58 535 22 16. deceased accompanied in museum and art gallery.
death by his three wives. The huge complex of
The castle resembles a harbour granaries, 26 brick
u Kwidzyn knights’ fortress, although it buildings built side by side
Road map: D2. * 37,000. was in fact the seat of a chapter. along the waterfront, fulfilled
£ @ ∑ kwidzyn.pl It was built in 1322–47 and a defensive function as well as
partially demolished in the being used for storage – seen
From 1243 until 1525, the small 18th century. Among the from the river, the granaries
town of Kwidzyn was the capital interesting features of the castle appear to surround the entire
of the Pomezania bishopric, are the well tower and the hillside. They were built
one of four to be established exceptionally tall latrine tower, mostly in the 17th and 18th
in the territory ruled by the which is connected to the centuries, but some are
Teutonic Knights. After the castle by a gallery supported significantly older.
order was dissolved, the town on large arches.
passed in turn to Prussia, E Grudziądz Museum
Germany and Poland. E Castle Museum ul. Wodna 3/5. Tel 56 465 90 63. Open
The cathedral standing on a ul. Katedralna 1. Tel 55 646 37 80 from 10am Tue–Sun; closing times
high escarpment and the castle or 646 37 97. Open 9am–5pm vary (see website). & (free on Tue).
attached to it are fine examples Tue–Sun. & ∑ muzeum.grudziadz.pl
of Gothic architecture. The
cathedral was built in the 14th
century on the site of an earlier
church, of which only the
narthex (a portico or porch
separated from the nave by
a screen) remains. The porch
dates from 1264–84.
In 1862–4 the cathedral was
remodelled in the Neo-Gothic
style by Friedrich August Stüler.
The interior of this vast pseudo-
basilica has Gothic murals,
which unfortunately were
excessively repainted in the
19th century. Many of the earlier
furnishings are still in place, The granaries in Grudziądz
o Chełmno VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The lands of Chełmno that Konrad, Duke of Mazovia, Practical Information

presented to the Teutonic Knights in 1226 were the Road map D2. * 21,200.
n Rynek 28 (56 686 21 04).
beginning of the vast state established by the order. The ∑ chelmno.pl
knights’ first city, Chełmno, was founded in 1233 and was
Transport
initially intended to be the capital of their state but this @ ul. Dworcowa.
honour went to Malbork (see p270). The civic laws of
Chełmno became a model for other cities.
Exploring Chełmno Franciszkańska, dating from the

Chełmno’s medieval street plan turn of the 18th century, once
and 13th- to 15th-century housed the Chełmno Academy,
fortifications survive virtually which was founded in 1692.
intact. The town walls are set Six Gothic churches have
with 23 towers and a fortified been preserved in Chełmno.
gate, the Grudziądz Gate, The largest is the Church of
which was converted into the Assumption (Kościół
a Mannerist chapel in 1620. Wniebowzięcia NMP) of 1280–
The town’s finest building 1320, a fine aisled building
is the town hall, a late containing early Gothic
Renaissance building of frescoes and stone carvings.
1567–72 with traces of Two monastery churches, the
earlier Gothic elements. It Church of St James (Kościół
houses the Chełmno św. Jakuba) and the Baroque high altar in the Church of the
Museum. At the Church of Saints Assumption, Chełmno
rear of the town Peter and Paul
hall is an iron (Kościół św. Piotra buildings. It was later transferred
measuring stick i Pawła), date from to Benedictine monks and then
equalling 4.35 m the same period. passed to the Catholic sisters
(just over 14 ft) The Abbey of the who run a hospital here today.
and known as Cistercian Nuns, The entrance on Ulica
the Chełmno established in the Dominikańska leads to an
Measure, or pręt. late 13th century, internal courtyard, which in turn
The Baroque The late Renaissance town hall is an exceptional gives access to the Church of
building on Ulica in the Market Square group of St John the Baptist (Kościół
Chełmno Town Centre

1 Grudziądz Gate
2 Church of Saints Peter
and Paul Church of
Saints Peter NA
IEL
3 Town Hall and Paul ŚC
KO
4 Church of the Assumption
5 Chełmno Academy
PO
DM
KA
RY
ŃS KA
6 Church of St James RS
UR
KA CE
NK
NI RY
NA
MI
7 Church of St John
OW
DO Grudziądz
RY
Gate
the Baptist
BA
Burghers’ A Bus station

ZK
CK
D 1 km (0.6 mile)
Church of Houses ZIĄ
A
Church of Town UD
St James GR
PO
St John Hall
WO
KL
PR
the Baptist
AS
ZE
DN
ZT
CZ
A
FR
OR
NA
AN
NA
IA
PIA ZN
YC
CIS
KU Chełmno ST
BIS Academy 22
ZK
Church of
AŃ
the Assumption
SK
NA
A
OL
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SZK
RU
ŃS
Church of A
KA
St Martin CH
U
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0 metres 300 Church of

WA the Holy Spirit
ŁOW
A
0 yards 300

POMERANIA 275
św. Jana Chrzciciela), built in monastery with a church of her time. She remained a spinster,
1290–1340. It has two storeys, 1545–52, and the Church and reputedly because of her ugly
the lower one having two naves, Convent of the Poor Clares appearance. Today the castle
and the upper a single nave that (Kościół Klarysek), which today hosts such events as jousting
was reserved for the choir of the houses a Regional Museum. The tournaments and oratory
Order of Teutonic Knights. half-timbered granaries on the competitions, as well as New
banks of the Brda, built in the 18th Year’s balls, at which revellers say
E Chełmno Museum and 19th centuries, were used for that the ghost of Queen Anna
Rynek. Tel 56 686 16 41. Open the salt and wheat that the town appears. By ironic coincidence,
10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat, traded and to store the beer for the Miss Poland beauty contests
11am–3pm Sun (Mar–Nov). & which it was renowned. are also held here.
Environs E Regional Museum E Castle Museum

In Chełmża, 23 km (14 miles) ul. Gdańska 4. Tel 52 585 99 66. Open ul. Zamkowa. Tel 56 683 24 55.
north of Chełmno, stands the 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri (Oct–Mar: to Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm daily;
Gothic Cathedral of the Holy 4pm); 10am–7pm Thu; 11am–5pm Sat Oct–Apr: 9am–3pm daily. 0
Trinity, built in 1251–1359 & Sun (Oct–Mar: to 4pm). & (free on
and rebuilt after 1422. Sat). ∑ muzeum.bydgoszcz.pl
p Bydgoszcz a Toruń
Road map C2. * 359,000. £ @ See pp276–9.
n ul. Stefana Batorego 2 (52 340 45
50). _ Bydgoszcz Music Festival
(Sep); Musica Antiqua Europae
s Golub-Dobrzyń
Orientalis (every 3 years, Sep). Road map D2. * 12,800. £ @
∑ bydgoszcz.pl n 56 683 54 10. _ International
Jousting Tournament (Jul). Graduation tower for the production of
Bydgoszcz lies at the confluence ∑ golub-dobrzyn.pl salt in Ciechocinek
of the River Brda and the
Bydgoszcz Canal, which then This picturesque town was d Ciechocinek
flow into the Vistula. The city originally two separate Road map D3. * 11,000. £ @
was only briefly part of the state settlements, one on either side n ul. Zdrojowa 2 (54 416 01 60).
of the Teutonic Knights, after of the River Drwęca. During the _ Festival of Kujawy and Dobrzyń
which its fate was linked with Partitions, Golub was part of Folklore (Jul); International Festival
that of the rest of Poland. It was Prussia and Dobrzyń part of of Gypsy Song and Culture (Aug).
the scene of dramatic events Russia. Golub’s main feature is the ∑ ciechocinek.pl
on 3 September 1939, when large castle built by the Teutonic
the town’s German minority Knights in 1293– 1310. From Ciechocinek is one of Poland’s
attempted to stage a coup. 1466 Golub was part of Poland, best-known spa towns, which
The Nazis entered the town and in the 17th century the castle grew and prospered thanks to its
and massacred thousands became the residence of Queen iodine-rich salt springs. It is not
of the Polish population. Anna Vasa of Sweden, sister of strictly part of Pomerania but of
The old town of Bydgoszcz is Zygmunt III Vasa. The castle was Kujawy, and has always been a
set on a bend of the Brda. It has rebuilt for her in 1616–23 in the Polish town. The town came into
several monumental town Renaissance style. Highly being in 1824, when Stanisław
houses, the late Gothic church educated and with an interest Staszic started to build saltworks
of Saints Nicholas and Martin in botany and natural medicine, and the first of three salt
(Kościół św. Mikołaja i Marcina) Anna Vasa was an graduation towers. The “towers”
and two monasteries: a Bernadine unusual woman for are huge wooden frames filled
with thorny brushwood which,
washed with brine, accumulates
salt crystals. Each “tower” is more
than 1.7 km (1 mile) wide.
Other features of Ciechocinek
are the group of baths built in a
variety of styles between 1845
and 1913, a fine park with a flower
clock, a pump room designed by
Edward Cichocki, a bandstand and
open-air theatre, and numerous
elegant boarding houses,
sanatoria and hotels dating from
The castle built by the Teutonic Knights in Golub-Dobrzyń the start of the 20th century.
For hotels and restaurants see p305and pp317–19
a Toruń
Toruń’s principal claim to fame is as the birthplace of the
astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus (see p279), but it is also
renowned for its architecture. The city was founded by the
Teutonic Knights in 1233 and quickly became a major centre
of trade; in 1454, when its citizens rebelled against the
knights’ rule, it passed to the kings of Poland. The old town
of Toruń, picturesquely situated on the banks of the River
Vistula, retains its medieval street plan, and has a rare calm,
since most of the streets are closed to traffic.
Star House, an early Baroque town house in

the Old Market Square
Ethnographical
Museum
O
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Wilam
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The Wilam Horzyca Theatre SK Theatre
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Virgin Mary
Neo-Baroque elements, was Museum
PIEK
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built in 1904 by the Viennese PA NN SQUARE
of Far East Art
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architects Ferdinand Fellner

S TA R
Town Hall
and Hermann Helmer. The Church of
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the Holy Spirit

Kontakt Theatre Festival is
ANA OLD
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held here each year in early Cathedral of SS
summer, bringing together TOWN John the Baptist and
AL.
John the Evangelist

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theatre performers from all PLAC

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and enthusiastic audiences
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Palace of the
IEŻ Ą
Bishops of Kujawy
R Church of the Virgin Mary Crooked B A N K O WA
ul. Marii Panny. Tel 56 622 26 03. Tower Klasztorna Gołębnik

Gate Gate Żeglarska
The Gothic Church of the Virgin Train Station Gate
1.6 km (1 mile)
Mary (Kościół NMP) was built
for Franciscan monks in 1270–
1300. It has an unusually richly P Old Market Square
ornamented east gable. Late The Old Market Square is
14th-century wall paintings the city’s finest open space
can be seen in the south aisle, and still the vibrant heart
while in the north aisle is a of its historic district. The
16th-century Mannerist organ centrepiece is the town hall,
loft, the oldest in Poland. By the but on all four sides of the
presbytery is the mausoleum of square there are fine buildings.
Anna Vasa (see p275), sister of On the south side, at No. 7,
Zygmunt III, which was made in is the Meissner Palace, built
1636. She was of royal blood in 1739 for Jakob Meissner,
but could not be buried at mayor of Toruń, and given a
Wawel Castle because she was Neo-Classical façade in 1798. The elaborate east end of the Church of
of the Protestant faith. Many of the town houses the Virgin Mary
TORUŃ 277
retain their original details, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

such as that at No. 17, which
has a portal made in 1630. The Practical Information
most attractive house in the Road map D2. * 203,000.
square is Star House, at No. 35 n Rynek Staromiejski 25 (56
on the east side, built in 1697. 621 09 30). _ Theatre Festival
It has a richly ornamented (May/Jun); Probaltica Baltic Arts
façade, with stuccowork motifs and Music Festival (mid-May).
∑ torun.pl
of fruit and flowers. In the
square stands a monument to Transport
Nicolaus Copernicus made £ Toruń Główny, ul. Kujawska 1
by Friedrich Tiecek in 1853, (56 699 930 44). £ Toruń Miasto,
and a fountain with the figure pl. 18 Stycznia 4. @
of a raftsman who, according
to legend, rid the citizens of
Toruń of a plague of frogs by P Town Hall
playing his fiddle. The town hall in the Old Market Square Rynek Staromiejski 1. Regional
Museum: Tel 56 660 56 12.
Bus station
180 m (200 yards) Open 10am–6pm (Oct–Apr: to 4pm)
Tue–Sun. Closed see website for
LE
ON
details. & (ground floor free on Wed).
A Tower: Open 10am–8pm daily
SZ
R ZE UM
Z Y MU AN (Nov–Apr: to 4pm). &
IĘ D A PLAC
M
A
ŚW. KATARZYNY ∑ muzeum.torun.pl
K
SO SU
Y
Y
PR KI The town hall, an imposing

YN
O
W EN
RZ
ST NI
A CZ Church of building with an internal
TA
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St Catherine
courtyard, was erected in 1391–9
.
A
ŚW
N
A
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LN
as a two-storey edifice. In 1602–5

IE
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Children’s
PI
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Art Gallery
SZ
the Gdańsk architect Antonis

JĘ
M Church of
AŁ
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St James van Opbergen added the third
BA ŚW
NEW MARKET
I
floor and gave the building its

IG
RY . J
ST SQUARE A
W
RU KU
NEW
D
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JA
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O
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W BR
W
A
TOWN
OW The lower parts of the tower
LO
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date from the 13th century.

KR
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AR
US
Standing 42 m (138 ft) high, it

ŚL
WIELKIE
KA GAR B A RY
A
SZERO
W
commands a fine view over the

O
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PR
city of Toruń.
ZE
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The town hall now houses a

O
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museum featuring Gothic art,

NA
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Castle of the 19th-century paintings and local

Teutonic Knights
KI
crafts. The building’s original
NA
CIAS IJS
ELF interiors are also noteworthy,
AD
FIL
AR especially the vaulting of the
ŁAZ
LW
BU former bakery and wool stalls
IEN
NA
Mostowa on the ground floors of the

Gate east and west wings.
sła 0 metres 100 The town hall also features
Wi
0 yards 100 a restaurant and a popular
pub in the basement.
Toruń City Centre
1 Wilam Horzyca Theatre
2 Church of the Virgin Mary
3 Old Market Square
4 Town Hall
5 Church of the Holy Spirit
6 Copernicus House
7 Crooked Tower
8 Palace of the Bishops of Kujawy
9 Cathedral of SS John the Baptist
and John the Evangelist
0 Castle of the Teutonic Knights
q New Market Square
w Church of St James The Church of the Virgin Mary seen from the top of the town hall tower
Exploring Toruń P Gothic Granary

ul. Piekary 4.
Toruń survived World War II relatively unscathed. It has well- The most remarkable of the
preserved city walls and a series of gates that once opened many Gothic granaries still
onto the quayside. Granaries dating from the 15th to the 19th standing in Toruń is that on the
corner of Ulica Piekary and
centuries still line the streets leading down to the river. The Ulica Rabiańska. Although the
Cathedral of Saints John the Baptist and John Evangelist and granary was rebuilt in the
the richly ornamented Palace of the Bishops of Kujawy are 19th century, it retains its
two of Toruń’s finest buildings and the Copernicus Museum towering ornamental gable
stands as a memorial to the city’s most famous son. with fine pointed arches.
+ Palace of the Bishops

R Church of the Holy Spirit of Kujawy
ul. Piekary 24. Tel 56 655 48 62. ul. Żeglarska 8.
The Baroque Church of the The palace was built by
Holy Spirit (Kościoł św. Ducha) Bishop Stanisław Dąmbski in
in the Old Market Square was 1693. In the 19th century it
built in the mid-18th century was converted into a hotel
for the Protestant community and then into a mess for military
of Toruń. It was begun by officers. Subsequent restoration
Andreas Adam Bähr, and work undid the damage
completed by Ephraim inflicted by these conversions
Schroeger. and returned the building to
its former elegance. It is now
P Copernicus House the Academy of Fine Arts.
ul. Kopernika 15/17. Tel 56 660 56
83. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun (May– The Crooked Tower, part of the
Sep: to 6pm). & (free Wed). fortifications on the River Vistula
∑ muzeum.torun.pl
These two Gothic town houses P Crooked Tower
from the 15th century are ul. Pod Krzywą Wieżą.
outstanding examples of The Crooked Tower is one
Hanseatic merchants’ houses. of Toruń’s greatest attractions.
The painted façades and fine It is part of the town’s old
carving of the arched gables fortifications system, and was
bear witness to the city’s former probably built in the first half
wealth. The house at No. 17 was of the 14th century. Although
that of Mikołaj Kopernik, a it leans significantly from the
merchant and the father of the perpendicular, the floors that
boy who was to become the were added later are perfectly
famous astronomer. The house, level – so that beer glasses in
although it may not be the one the pub that it now houses can
in which the younger Mikołaj be set down on the tables Cathedral of Saints John the Baptist and
was born, is now a museum. without danger of sliding off. John the Evangelist
R Cathedral of Saints
John the Baptist and
John the Evangelist
ul. Żeglarska 16. Tel 56 657 14 80.
The origins of the Cathedral
of Saints John the Baptist and
John the Evangelist (Kościoł
św. Janów) go back to 1250.
The oldest surviving part of
the cathedral is the presbytery.
The nave, with its numerous
side chapels, was completed
by Hans Gotland in about
1500, long after the tower
had been finished in 1433.
The interior is a treasury of
art. The presbytery contains
A room in the Copernicus House some fine 16th-century mural
TORUŃ 279
R Church of St James
Nicolaus Copernicus ul. Rynek Nowomiejski 6.
Nicolaus Copernicus (Mikołaj Kopernik; Tel 56 622 29 24.
1473–1543), astronomer, mathematician, The Gothic Church of St James
economist, doctor and clergyman, was (Kościoł św. Jakuba) was built
born in Toruń. For most of his life he in the first half of the 14th
lived in Warmia. He wrote treatises century as the new town’s
on economics, but gained the parish church. It was first used
greatest renown for his astronomical by Cistercian monks, and then
observations. His heliocentric theory of by Benedictines. It contains
the universe, which he expounded in wall paintings of the second
De Revolutionibus Orbium Celestium half of the 14th century. In the
(1543), posited the fact that the planets Renaissance epitaph to south aisle is a late 14th-century
rotate around the Sun. Copernicus in Toruń Gothic crucifix in the form of
the Tree of Life, in which the
figure of Christ is nailed to the
paintings. There are also altars, that acted as a sewer – were branches of a tree containing
chandeliers, stained-glass left standing, although part the figures of the prophets.
windows, sculpture and many of the cellars and cloisters Above the rood beam is a
paintings. In one of the side survive. The late Gothic house rare depiction of the Passion of
chapels in the south aisle is that was built on the site in about 1480–90, consisting
the Gothic font where Nicolaus 1489, probably with materials of 22 scenes of the Stations of
Copernicus was baptized scavenged from the castle, the Cross.
and a memorial to him from was the meeting place of
about 1580. He was buried in the Brotherhood of St George.
Frombork Cathedral (see p284).
P New Market Square
+ Castle of the The new town emerged as a
Teutonic Knights separate civic entity in 1264.
ul. Przedzamcze. Tel 56 621 08 89. Although it does not have as
Little more than ruins remain many historic buildings as the
of the castle that the Teutonic old town, there is a good deal of
Knights built in Toruń. Before interest here. In summer the
the castle at Malbork (see square is filled with fruit and
pp270–71) was built, Toruń vegetable stalls. In the centre,
was the knights’ capital. where the town hall once stood,
The castle was built in the is a former Protestant church,
13th century and extended built in 1824, probably by the
in the 14th. However, it was German architect Karl Friedrich
destroyed in 1454 when the Schinkel. It has been converted
people of Toruń rose up in into a gallery of contemporary
rebellion against the knights. art. Fine houses, some with
Only the latrine tower – a ornate façades like that of the
tower overhanging a stream Baroque house at No. 17,
surround the square.
On the corner of Ulica
Królowej Jadwigi and the square Gothic tower of the Church of St James in
is the Golden Lion pharmacy, a the new town
brick-built house originating in
the 15th century. E Ethnographical Museum
ul. Wały gen. Sikorskiego 19. Tel 56
622 80 91. Open mid-Apr–Jun: 9am–
5pm Tue–Fri (to 4pm Wed & Fri),
10am–6pm Sat & Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–
6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am–4pm
Wed & Fri; Oct–mid-Apr: 9am–4pm
Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. &
(free Wed). ∑ etnomuzeum.pl
The museum contains fishing
tools and folk art. There is also
a skansen, in which wooden
houses from the region of
Kujawy, Pomerania and Ziemia
Latrine tower, the surviving part of the Castle of the Teutonic Knights Dobrzyńska are displayed.
WARMIA, MAZURIA
AND BIAŁYSTOK
REGION
Known as the land of a thousand lakes, northeastern Poland
is blessed with vast forests and undulating moraine hills as well as
a large number of lakes and rivers. There are no major industrial areas.
Its three regions, Warmia, Mazuria and Białostocczyzna, are ethnically diverse
and have had very different histories.
Warmia, the western part of the region, Many castles were built by the Knights
was once inhabited by the early Prussians, and some Prussian mansions can be
and in the 13th century was taken over by seen here today.
the Teutonic Knights, who established a The Suwałki and Augustów lakelands
bishopric here. Warmia became part of and Białostocczyzna form the region’s
Poland in 1466, was transferred to Prussia eastern part, which once belonged to the
under the Partitions, and was not returned grand duchy of Lithuania. The area was
to Poland until 1945. There are many covered in primeval forests, and three –
historic churches in the region. the Augustów, Knyszyńska and Białowieża
Mazuria and the Iława Lake District at its forests – remain today. The Biebrza valley
southern and eastern fringes were also contains Poland’s largest stretches of
once controlled by the Teutonic Knights. marshland and peat swamps and offers
When the order was secularized in 1525, plenty for naturalists. Those interested in
the region became known as ducal Prussia religious culture are also well served: the
and was ruled by the Hohenzollern family, Orthodox church in Grabarka, the old
although until 1657 it was a Polish monastery of the Orthodox order of
fiefdom. The area’s subsequent history is St Basil in Supraśl, the mosque in
linked to that of Germany, and it did not Kruszyniany and the synagogue in
become part of Poland again until 1945. Tykocin represent a panoply of faiths.
View of Frombork Cathedral from the belfry

The Ostróda-Elbląg Canal, which connects a number of lakes in Western Mazuria with the Vistula Bay
Exploring Warmia, Mazuria

and Białystok Region
Northeastern Poland is an ideal place for a longer
holiday. It is suitable for watersports such as sailing
trips on the Mazurian Lakes or canoeing expeditions
down the Czarna Hańcza or Krutynia rivers, and there
are also plenty of opportunities for cycling tours. For
unspoiled primeval scenery, the Białowieża Forest
National Park with its bison reserve and the Biebrza
marshes, with their population of nesting birds, are
almost without equal.
Szczurkowo, a village where storks
outnumber people
Gu lf o f
Gdań sk
on Kaliningrad
go BRANIEWO
a La
tul
Vi s FROMBORK Gorowo
Pa Iławeckie
słę
Bartoszyce Węgorzewo
na
ka
Ły
ELBLĄG LIDZBARK Jezioro
WARMIŃSKI Mamry
KĘTRZYN
Orneta Bisztynek
Gierłoż
Pasłęk RESZEL
Malbork DOBRE Giźycko
MIASTO
ŚWIĘTA LIPKA THE GREAT
MORĄG MAZURIAN
g Biskupiec Mrągowo LAKES
rą
Ły
Mo
na
s ki OLSZTYN
Barczewo Mikołajki
Jezioro
w Śniardwy
I ła WARMIŃSKO-
Ostróda
MAZURSKIE
Iława Pisz
Olsztynek
Szczytno
Grudziądz
GRUNWALD
Nowe Miasto
Lubawskie
NIDZICA
Toruń
Działdowo
Nowogród
Warsaw
Warsaw
Sights at a Glance
1 Frombork t Biebrza National Park
2 Braniewo y Łomża
3 Elbląg u Tykocin
4 Morąg i Białystok
5 Dobre Miasto o Kruszyniany
6 Lidzbark Warmiński p Białowieża National Park
7 Olsztyn a Grabarka
8 Grunwald s Drohiczyn
9 Nidzica
0 Reszel Tours
q Święta Lipka r Canoeing on the Czarna
w Kętrzyn Hańcza River and Baroque façade of the Jesuit church in
e The Great Mazurian Lakes pp290–91 Augustów Canal Święta Lipka
WA R M I A , M A Z U R I A A N D B I A ŁY S T O K R E G I O N 283
Getting Around
The main road is Highway No. 16
from Grudziądz via Olsztyn to
Augustów. Highway E77 goes from
the south to Elbląg, highway 51 runs
from Olsztyn to the border with the
Russian Kaliningrad District, while
highway 8 links Augustów with
Białystok. Charter flights depart from
Szymany, the region’s only airport,
near the town of Szczytno, and
there are also connections with some
airports in Germany. There are rail
links with all major towns, and buses
link other towns in the region.
Kaunas The forests of Suwalszczyzna, carpeted with mushrooms
Szeska Góra
309m
Cz
ań
H
cz Suwałki Key
a
Lake
Wigry Motorway
Olecko CANOEING ON
CZARNA HAŃCZA & Motorway under construction
AUGUSTÓW CANAL
Main road
w ski
Augustów al Aug u s to Minor road
Ełk K an
Orzysz Main railway
Białobrzegi
Minor railway
Dąbrowa
Białostocka International border
El
Bi eb r z
k
Grajewo
A RK Grodno Regional border
LP
a
NA Peak
Szczuczyn O Czerwone
TI
Bagno
NA
ZA
r za
Kolno Sokółka
BIEBR
Stawiski
B ie b
PODLASKIE
KRUSZYNIANY
Narew
TYKOCIN Wasilków
ŁOMŻA Choroszcz BIAŁYSTOK

Bohoniki
Slonim
Zambrów Zabłudów
Wysokie rew
Mazowieckie Na
Bielsk Podlaski Hajnówka 0 km 20

A
IEŻ
Ciechanowiec Ł OW PARK 0 miles 20
A L
BI NA
IO
N AT
GRABARKA
DROHICZYN
Bu
g
Lublin

1 Frombork VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The history of this fortified town goes back to the second Practical Information
half of the 13th century, when it became a Warmian chapter Road map D1. Cathedral: Open
9am–5pm Mon–Sat (8:30am–3pm
(diocesan capital). The Gothic cathedral, which was erected in winter). Copernicus Tower: Open
1342–88, has an unusual form, with no towers on its west end, 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sat (summer).
giving it the appearance of a Cistercian monastery, and an eight- Museum: Tel 55 244 00 70. Open
bay nave that allowed each member of the chapter to have a 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (4:30 summer).
∑ frombork.art.pl Planetarium:
separate altar. There are also several canons’ stalls in the chancel. Tel 55 244 00 83. Open 9:30am–
The cathedral is surrounded by defensive walls set with towers 5pm daily. & Organ recitals:
and pierced by a large main gate in its south side. In the noon, 3pm (summer). 8
cathedral grounds are a bishop’s palace and chapterhouse.
Former High Altar Altar of St Anne

Commissioned by Bishop The Altar of St Anne,
Łukasz Watzenrode, uncle in the north aisle, has
of Nicolaus Copernicus, as its focal point this
the high altar was made subtle painting of 1639
in Toruń in 1504. It is in by the Gdańsk artist
the form of a polyptych Bartholomäus Strobel.
and is now in the south
aisle. The central panel
has a carving of the
Virgin, depicted as a
Maiden of the
Apocalypse. Bishop’s Palace
The palace now
houses the
Copernicus
Organ Museum.
The instrument was
made by Daniel
Nitrowski of
Gdańsk in 1683–4.
Main gate
Copernicus
Tower
High Altar
Designed by Franciszek
Placidi in 1742–52, the high
altar is almost identical to that
The Belfry in the collegiate church at
Also known as the Dobre Miasto (see p286). The
Copernicus Tower, it central panel is a painting of
houses a planetarium. the Virgin by Stefan Torelli.
2 Braniewo R Church of St Anthony the beer Specjal, which is

Road map D1. * 17,400.
ul. Królewiecka 24. popular in the Pomerania
Tel 55 243 23 61. region. Founded in 1237 by the
@ £ ∑ braniewo.pl
The Neo-Classical Church Teutonic Knights, the town was
The fortified town of of St Anthony (Kościół part of the Polish Republic
Braniewo was founded św. Antoniego) was built in from 1466 to 1772, when
by the Teutonic Knights 1830–38 by the German under the Partitions it passed
in 1240. It was the seat architect Karl Friedrich to Prussian rule. After the
of the bishops of Schinkel. Originally devastation of World War II,
Warmia and later Protestant, it is now only the most important old
became the dio- a Catholic church. buildings of Elbląg were
cesan capital of Church of St Catherine rebuilt. The Brama Targowa
Warmia. A member in Braniewo P Tower of the tower is all that remains of the
of the Hanseatic Bishop’s Castle former Gothic fortifications
League, the town was a busy ul. Gdańska. Closed to the public. that surrounded the town.
port and grew prosperous The tower, built in the 13th In the old town, just a few
through the linen trade. century as a town gate, led town houses, on Ulica Wigilijna,
During the Counter- from the Castle of the Bishops survive. Today, a programme of
Reformation it played an of Warmia to a close linking it rebuilding is under way; houses
important role as the first to the town walls. in the style of the old Hanseatic
Jesuit centre in Poland: the merchants’ houses, with
Hosianum Jesuit College was stairways and their typical
founded here in 1565, and a 3 Elbląg gables, are revitalizing the
papal college set up in 1578. Road map D1. * 122,000. @ £
old town. The quarter is well
Just 8 km (5 miles) from the ∑ elblag.pl provided with friendly bars
Russian border, Braniewo has and good restaurants.
become an important transit Once a large port on a par
point for travellers crossing from with Gdańsk, Elbląg is today R Church of the Virgin Mary
one country into the other. known for its large ABB ul. Kuśnierska 6. Tel 55 625 67 84.
Although it suffered severe engineering plant, its restored Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
damage during World War II, old town and for producing 10am–5pm Sun. = ∑ galeria-el.pl
several fine buildings are This Gothic church with a
still there. double aisle was built for
Dominican monks in the 14th
R Church of St Catherine century. After World War II it
ul. Katedralna 3. Tel 55 243 24 29. became the EL art gallery.
The nave of the Gothic Church
of St Catherine (Kościół św. R Church of St Nicholas
Katarzyny) dates from 1343–81 ul. Mostowa 18. Tel 55 232 69 79 or
and the vaulting and tower 232 45 85.
from the 15th century. War The Church of St Nicholas
damage reduced the church (Kościół św. Mikołaja) was
to little more than ruins, but it Postmodern houses in the old town begun in the 13th century
has been extensively restored. of Elbląg and completed in 1510. The
interior includes a font from
1387 by Bernhuser, a Crucifixion
The Elbląg Canal ascribed to Jan van der Matten
The Elbląg Canal is one of the most extraordinary feats of and a late Gothic altar with the
hydraulic engineering in Poland. A network of canals and locks Adoration of the Magi.
connecting a number of lakes, it was built in 1848–72 by the
Dutchman Georg Jacob Steenke. Including its branches, its total
length is 212 km (133 miles). Ingenious slipways enable barges
to be hauled overland from one lake to another where the
difference in the water levels is too high for conventional locks to
be built: there are five slipways along the 10-km (6-mile) section
between Buczyniec and
Całuny, and from the
canalside ships can be
seen being hauled along
them. You can book a
boat trip along the canal
that will take you through
the Vistula valley and
Iława Lake District. The EL art gallery in the Church of the
Virgin Mary
4 Morąg 14th century. Of special interest

Road map: E2. * 14,500. £ are the Palace of Bishop
@ n pl. Jana Pawła II 1 (89 757 Grabowski and the Great
38 26). ∑ morag.pl Refectory in the east wing, the
castle’s Rococo chapel and
Located in the lakelands of Iławski armoury in the south wing, the
Morąg, the town of Morąg was Small Refectory in the west
founded by the Teutonic Knights wing and the bishops’ private
– like all other towns in the apartments located in the north
region. It received its municipal wing. The cloistered courtyard is
charter in 1327. Despite joining decorated with murals. The
the Prussian Union, Morąg astronomer Nicolaus
remained part of the state of the Copernicus (see p279) lived here
Teutonic Knights, and up until as secretary and physician to his
1945 its history was linked to that uncle, Bishop Łukasz von
of ducal Prussia. In the town are Wantzenrode, in 1503–10. The
the remains of a 14th-century Interior of the Gothic collegiate church in castle now houses the Warmia
Teutonic castle, a Gothic town Dobre Miasto Museum and a bar and art
hall that was rebuilt after World gallery in its cellars.
War II, and the Church of St established was built in the On the opposite bank of the
Joseph (Kościół św. Józefa), built second half of the 1300s. Łyna, in the historic town centre,
in the 14th century and extended Its impressive interior includes stands the fine Gothic Church
in the late 15th, with Gothic two Gothic side altars as well of Saints Peter and Paul (Kościół
polychromes from that time. as a Baroque high altar almost św. Piotra i Pawła). There are also
Morąg is the birthplace of the identical in design to that remnants of the city walls, and
German philosopher Gottfried made by Franciszek Placidi the main gate, the Brama Wysoka,
von Herder (see below). A museum for Frombork Cathedral (see still stands. The former Protestant
dedicated to him is housed in a p284). The church also possesses church (now Orthodox) nearby
Baroque palace that once richly decorated Baroque stalls was built in 1821–3 by Karl
belonged to the Dohn family. down each side, which have Friedrich Schinkel.
remarkable Gothic steps carved
E Johann Gottfried von Herder into them in the shape of lions. E Regional Museum
Museum pl. Zamkowy 1. Tel 89 767 21 11.
ul. Dąbrowskiego 54. Tel 89 757 28 48. Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug:
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (Oct–May:
6Lidzbark to 5pm). ∑ muzeum.olsztyn.pl
to 4pm). & Warmiński On display is a selection of
Road map: E1. * 16,800. £ Warmian art and a unique
@ ∑ lidzbarkwarminski.pl collection of icons from the
5 Dobre Miasto Convent of the Old Believers’
Road map: E2. * 10,500. £ From 1350 to 1795 Lidzbark in Wojnowo (see p290).
@ ∑ dobremiasto.com.pl was the main residence of the
bishops of Warmia, and one R Church of Saints Peter
Founded in 1326, Dobre Miasto of the region’s major towns. and Paul
owes its historical importance Picturesquely set on a bend ul. Kościelny 1. Tel 89 767 23 15.
to the fact that, in 1347, it of the River Łyna, the town is Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (Sep–19
became the seat of a college dominated by the medieval May: to 4pm).
of canons of the diocese of Bishops’ Castle. The massive
Warmia. The vast Gothic edifice with corner towers was
collegiate church that they built in the second half of the
Johann Gottfried Von Herder (1744–1803)

The German writer and philosopher Johann
Gottfried von Herder, who was born in
Morąg, was one of the great figures of
the Enlightenment. He studied theology
in Königsberg (Kaliningrad) before
entering the priest-hood. He saw the
importance of nations in the making of
history and the role of culture and
language in preserving national
identity. While living in Riga, he
recorded Latvian folk songs. The Gothic cloisters of the Bishop’s Castle
in Lidzbark
7 Olsztyn (Katedra św. Jakuba), most

Road map: E2. * 175,000. £ @
probably built between
n ul. Jana Pawła II (89 521 03 98). 1380 and 1445. The very fine
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, crystalline vaulting was added
10am–4pm Sat. _ Olsztyn Blues in the early 16th century.
Nights; Castle Poetry Readings (Jul).
∑ olsztyn.eu E Museum of Warmia
and Mazuria
Olsztyn is the largest city in ul. Zamkowa 2. Tel 89 527 95 96.
Warmia and Mazuria and the Open Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun
main town of the two regions. (Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm); Oct–May:
It is a centre of both academic 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & (free Wed).
∑ muzeum.olsztyn.pl
and cultural life as well as a
major city. It is also associated R Cathedral of St James
with several sporting heroes, The High Gate, part of the defences ul. Staszica 12. Tel 89 527 32 80.
particularly in speedway and of Olsztyn old town
aerobatics. It hosts the Olsztyn Environs
Summer Arts festival from mid- to Nicolaus Copernicus. The Barczewo, 10 km (6 miles) east
June to mid-September. first floor contains an of Olsztyn, is the birthplace
The Gothic Castle of the ethnographical and natural of Feliks Nowowiejski (1877–
Warmian Chapter, which was history collection. 1946), composer of the Rota,
built in the 14th century, The castle’s fortifications a patriotic Polish anthem.
formed the beginning of the were linked to the city walls, His family home contains
city. The castle was built on a which were built after 1353 a small museum.
hill on the banks of the Łyna. on the far side of the moat. Halfway between Olsztyn
It was a four-sided fortress of The moat today has an open- and Nidzica, in the local
modest proportions with air theatre that is used for Ethnography Park, lies the
residential quarters in the north concerts in summer. country’s oldest open air
wing and a service wing to the In the picturesque old town museum of folk architecture,
south. The palace in the east of Olsztyn, set on a slope, are including traditional wooden
wing was added in 1756–8. remnants of the walls and the windmills, arts and crafts.
The finest part of the building High Gate. The quaint little
is the refectory, which has Market Square surrounded E Feliks Nowowiejski Museum
intricate crystalline vaulting. by arcaded houses was built ul. Mickiewicza 13. Tel 89 674 04 79.
On the wall of the cloister is a during the post-war Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–4pm
remarkable diagram of an reconstruction of the city, but Sat, Sun by appt (89 660 017 208).
equinox probably drawn by the houses retain their original E Budownictwa Ludowego
Nicolaus Copernicus, who cellars, which today are given Open Air Museum
combined his duties as an over to bars, restaurants and ul. Leśna 23. Tel 89 519 21 64.
administrator of the chapter in cafés. Standing in the middle Open mid–end Apr, Sep, Oct:
Olsztyn with his astronomical of the square is a Baroque Tue–Sun; May–Aug: daily –
observations. The castle now town hall, whose wings hours vary. &
houses the Museum of were added in 1927–9. ∑ muzeum
Warmia and Mazuria, which Another important building olsztynek.pl
has a special in the Market Square is the
section dedicated Gothic Cathedral of St James
The Castle of the Warmian Chapter in Olsztyn

defeat. The monument to the

medieval Battle of Grunwald that
stands on the site was designed
by Jerzy Bandura and Witold
Cęckiewicz and unveiled in 1960.
Nearby is a small museum with a
collection of documents about
the battle and archaeological
finds from the site. For several
years the battle’s anniversary has
been marked by re-enactments
of the engagement as it is
described in chronicles.
E Museum of the Battle of

Grunwald in Stębark
Stębark 1. Tel 89 647 22 15. Open 10 Castle for the Bishops of Warmia, built to
Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily (8:30pm repulse Lithuanian attacks
on 15 Jul). ∑ grunwald.warmia.
mazury.pl
The monument to the Battle of Grunwald 0 Reszel
outside the town
Road map E1. * 4,800.
8 Grunwald 9 Nidzica @ ∑ reszel.pl
Road map E2. * 14,200. £ @
Road map E2. * 420. @
n pl. Wolności 1 (89 625 03 70). _
_ Battle of Grunwald (15 Jul). This little town was once
Nidzica Festival (May). ∑ nidzica.pl
a major Warmian city. In
The fields between Grunwald and 1337, Reszel was granted
Stębark (Tannenberg in German) The main feature of Nidzica is the a municipal charter, and in
were the scene of one of the Teutonic Castle, which overlooks the second half of the 14th
major battles of the Middle Ages. the town from a hill. It was built century a Gothic castle
On 15 July 1410, the forces of the in the late 1300s and altered in was built here for the Bishops
Teutonic Knights – some 14,000 the 16th century. Reduced to of Warmia. The castle’s tower
cavalry plus infantry commanded ruins, it was rebuilt in the 1800s commands a splendid view
by Ulrich von Jungingen – faced and again after World War II. Part over the town. The castle
24,000 Polish-Lithuanian and of it is now a hotel. Some of the is now a hotel, and it also
Ruthenian cavalry and several town’s medieval fortifications houses a gallery of
thousand infantry led by also survive. contemporary art.
Władysław II Jagiełło. The knights There are two churches in
suffered a resounding defeat, Environs the town: the Gothic Church
and the Grand Master himself The Tartars’ Stone lies 2 km (just of Saints Peter and Paul, built
was killed. Historians believe that over 1 mile) south of Nidzica. This in the 1300s with the addition
during World War I, in August large rock, with a circum-ference of late 15th-century vaulting,
1914, the German Field Marshal of 19 m (63 ft), marks the spot and the former Church of
Hindenburg deliberately chose where, according to legend, the St John the Baptist, now
this site for his victorious battle leader of the Tartars was killed in an Orthodox church, built
against the Russians in order to 1656, thus sparing Nidzica from in 1799–1800 in the
negate the memory of that invasion in the same year. Baroque style.
The Gothic Castle of the Teutonic Knights in Nidzica

w Kętrzyn
Road map E1. * 28,300. £ @
n pl. Piłsudskiego 10/1 (89 751 47
65). ∑ ketrzyn.pl
From the 14th century, Kętrzyn

was the seat of the Prosecutor
of the Teutonic Knights, who
built the castle that can still be
seen today. Kętrzyn then passed
to Prussia and later Germany,
but retained a sizeable Polish
population. The original name
for the town was Rastembork; in
1946 it was renamed in honour
of Polish national activist
Wojciech Kętrzyński. The old
town was almost entirely
flattened during World War II:
only the town walls and the
Church of St George (Kościół
św. Jerzego) survived. Its
exterior is modest, but the
interior is impressive – its finest
decoration is the crystalline
vaulting of around 1515.
Environs
Ten km (6 miles) east of Kętrzyn
is Gierłoż, location of the “Wolf’s
Lair”, Adolf Hitler’s headquarters
in 1940. It consisted of dozens
of reinforced concrete bunkers
built in woodland. There was
Trompe l’oeil paintings in the pilgrimage church in Święta Lipka also an airfield, railway lines and
a power station. Here, on 20 July
E Castle Gallery
cloisters and outside chapels 1944, the German officer Claus
ul. Podzamcze 4. Tel 89 755 07 59.
were added and the façade and von Stauffenberg made an
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8
belfry were completed in 1729. unsuccessful attempt on
During the Counter- Hitler’s life. The lair was never
Reformation Święta Lipka was discovered by the Allies, and the
q Święta Lipka a Catholic stronghold within bunkers were blown up by the
Road map E2. * 190. @ _ Święta Protestant ducal Prussia. Large withdrawing Germans in
Lipka Music Evenings (Jun–Aug). donations were made for January 1945.
∑ swlipka.org.pl decorating the church, resulting
in one of the finest and most
Święta Lipka has one of the intriguing examples of Baroque
most important shrines of the art in Poland.
cult of the Virgin in Poland. The The magnificent interior
name of the town means “holy contains frescoes, including
lime” (or linden tree), and the trompe l’oeil paintings in the
legend that grew up concerns dome by Mathias Mayer, and
a miraculous sculpture of the the high altar has an image of
Virgin that was carved by a the Virgin dating from about
prisoner in the 15th century 1640. The organ, with its
and hung from a roadside lime moving figurines of angels, built
tree. A chapel containing the in 1721 by Johann Mosengel of
statue of the Virgin, destroyed Królewiec (Königsberg), is a
during the Reformation, was great attraction for both tourists
built around it. In 1619 a and pilgrims. In summer, about
temporary chapel was built eight organ recitals are given
here, followed in 1687–93 by a every day, and during some of
proper church, which was cared them, the figures in the organ Crystalline vaulting in the Church of
for by the Jesuits. In 1694–1708 loft are set in motion. St George in Kętrzyn
e The Great Mazurian Lakes J
J
The Great Mazurian Lakes are the largest in Poland and a popular
Lake
holiday spot in summer. Despite this, the countryside remains Mamry
largely unspoiled, and many rare plants and birds thrive here.
The lakes are interlinked by rivers and canals, and are suitable for J
yachting or canoeing trips. Another way to see the region is to Sztynort
take a cruise aboard a ship of the Mazurian Shipping Company J Lake
or to drive along the roads that wind among the lakeside trees. Dargin
Lake
The district is a paradise for ramblers and for those who delight Dobskie
in discovering secret spots. Its woods conceal overgrown bunkers
built by the Germans in World War II.
Lake
Kisajno
Ryn Lake
The castle that towers over Kętrzyn Dejguny
J
the town was built by J
Konrad Wallenrod, Grand
Master of the Teutonic
Knights, for his brother
Frederick in 1394. It was
rebuilt in the English
Gothic style in 1853.
Ryn Lake
Mragowo Jagodne
Lake
Tałty
J
Lake
Łuknajno
Mikołajki
The summer capital of the Mazurian Lake District is Mikołajki
the location of its main yachting marina. A variety of
vessels – from sailing dinghies, yachts and canoes to
motorboats – are available for hire.
Lake
Śniardwy
KEY
J
1 The Pranie Forester’s House J
Museum honours the poet Konstanty
Ildefons Gałczyński (1905–53), who
spent the last days of his life here.
2 Sztynort, once the residence of
the Prussian Lehndorff family, stands
on a large peninsula. Some of the Wojnowo
oak trees in the park surrounding the Ruciane Nida
house are three centuries old.
3 Lake Śniardwy is not very
deep but, covering an area of Pranie
114 sq km (44 sq miles), it is the Wojnowo
largest in Poland. The church, cemetery
4 The local history museum in and convent at
Pisz features a granite column with Wojnowo were built by Lake
a human face known as the the Old Believers, who Nidzkie
Prussian Woman. fled Russia in the 18th

and 19th centuries.
Giżycko VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

In the woods beside
the town, on an Practical Information
isthmus between Road map F1, F2, E2.
the lakes, is the grim n Mikołajki (87 421 68 50).
Prussian Boyen Mazurian Shipping Company:
Castle, which was Giżycko. Tel 87 428 53 32.
built in 1844. Pisz Regional Museum:
Tel 87 423 22 64. Open 1 Oct–
30 Apr: 8am–3pm daily; 1 May–
30 Sep: 8am–4pm daily.
Transport
@ £ Giżycko, Pisz,
Ruciane Nida.
Giżycko
Lake Olecko
Niegocin J
Lake Niegocin
Like most others in
the region, the lake
is popular with
watersports enthusiasts
and swimmers. Holiday
resorts and campsites
are scattered around
the lakes.
Water Lilies
Several varieties of
water lily can be seen
in the region’s lakes.
0 kilometres 10
Orzysz
0 miles 10
Key
Major road
Minor road
Wild Swans
Lake Łuknajno, which is listed by UNESCO as a World Biosphere
Reserve, has become one of Poland’s finest nature reserves for
wild swans. The fact that the lake is shallow – its average depth
Lake Roś does not exceed 1.5 m (4 ft) – makes it easy for the birds to
feed on the weed that grows on the lakebed. In 1922 eggs
laid by the swans of Lake Łuknajno were used to regenerate
Berlin’s swan population.
Pisz Lake Łuknajno attracts
wildlife photographers
from all over the world,
lured by the chance of
Kolno
an unforgettable shot.
To safeguard the natural
habitat, boats are not
A swan on Lake Łuknajno allowed on the lake.

rCanoeing on the Czarna

Hańcza and Augustów Canal
This is one of the most beautiful canoeing routes in Poland. In
some places the narrow, winding River Czarna Hańcza is as swift
as a mountain stream; in others its course slows as its banks
widen. The route downstream passes
swamps and lakes and goes through
locks on the Augustów Canal that have
remained almost unchanged since the 1 Lake Wigry
time that they were built at the beginning Lake Wigry, in Wigry
National Park, is the
of the 19th century. Canoe trips may be largest lake in the
made individually or in organized groups. Suwałki region. Part of
the “silent zone”, it has
numerous islands.
2 Camaldolite
Monastery
This monastery
stands on the
Lake Długie
peninsula in Lake Suwałki Lake Petry
Sejny •
•
Wigry. The mon- Lake Krzywe
astery buildings Stary Folwark
•
Lake
have been converted Gremzdy
into a hotel. Beyond,
the Czarna Hańcza Lake
Białe
River flows from Wigry
the lake. National
Park
Olecko
Lake
Wigry
a
nk
nia
erś
Wi
Fracki
Lake Blizno Cz
ar
na
Ha
ńc
Bliz
Lake Busznica
za
na
Lake
Serwy
Lake Orle
Ro
sp
ud
3 The Czarna Hańcza River Lake Długie

a
The most beautiful stretch of

the Czarna Hańcza, beyond the Lake Augustow
village of Wysoki Most, takes a Lake Biale
Lake Studzieniczne
Canal
meandering route. All around Necko
is the Augustów Forest.
Lake Sajno
4 Rygol Grodno
Here the river forks,
its right arm joining
the Augustów Canal.
Grajewo
Canoeists may stray
Białystok
off the route and
follow the canal 5 Locks
leading to the border The Augustów Canal connects the
with Belarus, but River Niemen with the River Biebrza
they must turn back and, further on, with the Vistula,
at the last lock before passing through several locks on the
the border, which way. Built in 1823–39, the canal was
is closed. a great engineering achievement.
Tips for Walkers

Starting point for canoe trips:
Stary Folwark or Wigry.
Length: About 100 km (62 miles).
Stopping-off places: There are
campsites and bivouacs along
the route. You may also stay
by the locks and PTTK
riverside hostels.
Meadows covered by the floodwaters of the River Biebrza
t Biebrza National y Łomża

Park Road map F2. * 62,000. £ @
n Woyska Polskiego 1 (86 216 64 42).
Road map F2. @ n Osowiec
∑ lomza.pl
National Park Management (85 738
06 20). & tickets available in the
Łomża is a large provincial town
management office, foresters’ lodges
with many distinguished
and gamekeepers’ cottages.
∑ biebrza.org.pl buildings. Its Gothic cathedral,
built in the 16th century by the
Biebrza National Park is one of last dukes of Mazovia, has a
the wildest places in Europe, number of notable features: in
untouched by human activity. It particular, the cellular and star
stretches for 70 km (50 miles) vaulting of its interior, the silver
Typical landscape of the Augustów along the banks of the River reliefs on the high altar, and the
lake district Biebrza and contains Poland’s tombs of Andrzej Modliszewski,
largest swamps, which are mayor of Łomża, his wife and
home to a wide variety of their son. The tombs are the
wildlife. A close encounter with work of Santi Gucci. The
6 Augustów
a moose is a distinct possibility. Capuchin church and regional
Augustów is a major tourist
town with many hotels, The greatest attraction of the museum are also of interest.
guesthouses and rest centres. swamps, however, is their rich
There is a large yachting bird life; over 260 species live Environs
marina on the canal. here, and bird-watchers from In Nowogród, on a high bank of
afar come to the swamps to the River Narew, 15 km (9 miles)
observe them. The most northwest of Łomża, is a skansen
interesting swamp for bird life is in which the houses and other
7 Białobrzegi
Canoeing trips Red Swamp (Czerwone Bagno), buildings of a typical Kurpie
usually end in part of a strictly protected village are displayed. Opened
Lake Augustów, but nature reserve accessible only in 1927, it is one of Poland’s
Mikaszewo by means of a wooden walkway. oldest skansens.
canoeists may
continue along the Walkways have also been
Augustów Canal installed in other parts of the
through Białobrzegi park. A walk along the red
southwards to the tourist trail holds a range of
swamps on the attractions – although you may
River Biebrza. have to wade through mud to
reach them. Visitors may hire a
guide and tour the swamps in
a punt, or descend the River
Biebrza in a canoe, for which a
0 kilometres 5 ticket and the permission of the
0 miles 5 park management are required.
In Osowiec, in the middle of
the swamps, there is a beaver
Key reserve. Nearby stand the partly
Canoeing route blown-up walls of a Russian
Main road redoubt. Although it was
impregnable, the Russians,
Other road
fearful of the German offensive, Star vaulting over the nave of
abandoned it in 1915. Łomża Cathedral
i Białystok reform and contributing to

Road map F2. * 295,000. £ @
the ruin of Poland. Parts of the
n ul. Kilińskiego 1 (85 869 62 58). palace now house the town’s
_ Białystok Days (around 20 Jun). medical academy.
∑ bialystok.pl Another interesting building
is the Church of St Roch
Białystok is the largest town in (Kościół św. Rocha), in reinforced
northeast Poland. Its population concrete, designed by Oskar
is both Polish and Belarussian, Sosnkowski, and built between
something that can easily be 1927 and 1946. The Baroque
read in the cityscape: the domes town hall in the Market Square
of the Orthodox church rise up houses a Regional Museum.
next to the towers of the
Catholic church, and there are + Branicki Palace
many Belarussian cultural ul. Kilińskiego 1. Tel 85 748 54 67.
The synagogue in Tykocin, now a institutions. Białystok was once Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm
Regional Museum owned by the Branicki family; Sat & Sun. &
indeed, the layout of the town is R Church of St Roch
u Tykocin dominated by their former ul. ks. Abramowicza 1. Tel 85 652 10 58.
Road map F2. * 2,000. @
residence, Branicki Palace.
E Regional Museum
n ul. Złota 2 (85 718 72 32). The Baroque palace was built
Rynek Kościuszki 10. Tel 85 742 14 73.
by Tylman van Gameren in the
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (May–Sep:
The town of Tykocin was 17th century and extended to 6pm Fri). & (free Sun).
granted a municipal charter by Jan Zygmunt Deybel
in 1425. In 1659 it was given to – who gave it the
Stefan Czarnecki, hero of appearance of a royal
the bitter wars with mansion – between o Kruszyniany
Sweden, in recognition 1728 and 1758. It was
Road map G2. * 110.
of his service to the modelled on the Palace
king and to Poland. of Versailles, and a formal Kruszyniany and nearby
It later passed to park, with terraces, Bohoniki count among their
the royal field canals, fountains, inhabitants the descendants of
commander Jan summerhouses and the Tartars who settled here in
Klemens Branicki. numerous sculptures, was the 17th century. Although they
The town owes its laid out around it. Like became fully integrated into the
present appearance other members of the community a long time ago,
to renovation – high aristocracy, Jan their Muslim faith and customs
financed by Branicki – Klemens Branicki, royal live on. Descendants of the
that was carried out field commander and an Tartars also live in the Podlasie
after a fire in 1741. extremely wealthy man in villages of Nietupy, Łużyny and
In the centre of the his own right, maintained Drahle. Kruszyniany has a
Market Square there his own private army. He charming wooden mosque,
stands a Baroque Statue by JC Redler was also a connoisseur originating in the 18th century
monument to Stefan at Branicki Palace of art. In political circles, and rebuilt in 1843. The
Czarnecki that was in Białystok however, he was tombstones in the Muslim
carved between 1761 unpopular, opposing graveyard face Mecca.
and 1763 by the court sculptor
Pierre Coudray. The parish
church on the east side of
the square was built a little
earlier, in 1750. The Baroque
synagogue, which dates from
1642, is a relic of the town’s
former Jewish population.
Inside, the walls are inscribed
with religious quotations in
Hebrew and Aramaic. The
synagogue now contains
the Tykocin Museum.
E Tykocin Museum
ul. Kozia 2. Tel 85 718 16 26.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–
Apr: to 5pm). & (free on Sat.) 8 Wooden mosque in Kruszyniany, built by the descendants of the Tartars
p Białowieża
Białowieża National Park has
National Park been listed by UNESCO as a
Road map G3. @ n Park Pałacowy World Biosphere Reserve.
11 (85 681 29 01). ∑ bpn.com.pl
E Białowieża Forest Museum
The Białowieża Forest, covering Palace Park Botanical Gardens.
almost 1,500 sq km (580 sq Tel 85 682 97 04. Open mid-Apr–
miles), is Europe’s largest natural mid-Oct: 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri,
forest. It lies partly in Poland and 9am–5pm Sat & Sun; mid-Oct–
partly in Belarus. The larger – mid-Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. 9
Belarussian – part is virtually
inaccessible to tourists; the
Polish part became a national
a Grabarka
park in 1932. Many parts of the Road map F3. * 50. £ Nurzec. @
park have preserved their Orthodox convent: Tel 85 655 00 10.
natural character – that of a ∑ grabarka.pl
primeval forest. The areas of Baroque façade of the Benedictine church
greatest interest may be visited For Poland’s Orthodox in Drohiczyn
only with a guide. Recently, the Christians, there is no more
park’s borders have been important place of pilgrimage passed and the hill became a
extended on the Polish side. in the country than the Holy hallowed site.
The forest has an impressive Mountain outside Grabarka. To this day its slopes are
abundance of flora and fauna. The story goes that in 1770, covered with hundreds of votive
There are several thousand when the plague was ravaging crosses. The original wooden
species of plants and 11,000 the town, the inhabitants church, destroyed by an arsonist
species of animals, including of Grabarka were directed in 1990, was replaced by a brick-
many very rare birds, such as by a heavenly sign to erect a built church. The Orthodox
the capercaillie, black stork and cross on the hill. The plague convent next to it is the only
golden eagle. Larger mammals one in Poland.
include elk, deer, roe deer, wild
boar, wolf, lynx and, most
famously, the European bison. s Drohiczyn
On the road through the Road map F3. * 2,100. @
forest there is a bison-breeding n ul. Kraszewskiego 13 (85 655
centre and enclosures of bison, 70 69). ∑ drohiczyn.pl
deer, wild boar and Polish
ponies. The park also has a Drohiczyn, set on a high bank of
forest museum, whose exhibits the Bug River, is today a small,
were once housed in a brick quiet town. As early as the 13th
hunting lodge used by the tsars. century, however, it was a major
It was torched by German forces centre of trade, and in 1520 it
in 1944. Only an Orthodox Part of the forest of crosses on the Holy became the provincial capital of
church remains. Mountain outside Grabarka Podlasie. In 1795, with the Third
Partition of Poland, it was
demoted to the status of an
European Bison ordinary village.
The European bison (Bison bonasus) is the largest mammal native to The oldest surviving church
Europe. The weight of an adult bull may reach 1,000 kg (2,200 lb). The in the town is the Baroque
largest population of bison ever recorded – 1,500 animals – was in Franciscan church, dating
Białowieża in 1860. Hunting these animals has always been restricted, from 1640–60. The cathedral,
but by World War I (1914–18) the species faced extinction. In 1929, originally a Jesuit church, dates
several bison were brought to from 1696–1709. Nearby stands
Poland from zoos in the former Jesuit monastery,
Sweden and
later taken over by the Piarists.
Germany to be bred
The striking Benedictine
in their natural
habitat. The first church, begun in 1744, has a
were set free in typically Baroque undulating
Białowieża National façade and elliptical interior.
Park in 1952. Today bison can also The Orthodox church,
be seen in the other great forests of originally Greek Catholic, dates
Poland, including Borecka, from 1792. To the east of the
Knyszyńska and Niepołomice town, along the winding Bug
(see p168). The European bison River, lies a park, the Podlasie
Bug River Gorge.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 298–305

Where to Eat and Drink 306–319
Shopping in Poland 320–325
Entertainment in Poland 326–331
298 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The accommodation industry in Poland hotels have sprung up in cities and resorts
has come a long way since the fall of throughout the country. The number of
Communism in 1989. The country is now backpacker hostels has also mushroomed,
home to big international chains, such ensuring that there is a broad choice of
as Radisson Blu and Sheraton, as well as accommodation for all budgets. Visitors
many superbly renovated 19th-century can still expect to pay a premium for
hotels, renowned for their fin-de-siècle hotels in the city centre, but the increased
atmosphere. The best of these have competition is helping to keep prices in
managed to recapture the magnificence check. From all the hotels in Poland, this
that was lost during the period of section highlights some of the best; they
Communist rule. In addition to these have been categorized according to
renovated historic hotels, many new location and price on pages 302–5.
countryside now serve as luxury Making a Reservation

hotels and conference centres. Almost all of Poland’s hotels,
Modern five-star chains such B&Bs and hostels are featured
as Radisson Blu and Sheraton on international booking sites
are also present in Poland, such as Booking, Airbnb and
alongside a lot of the more Hostelworld. Reservations can
budget-oriented hotel chains, also be made by contacting
such as Ibis and Mercure. Lake the establishment directly by
and mountain resorts have phone or email.
seen an increase in the number Early booking is advisable
of spa hotels offering indoor with most hotels, especially
pools, wellness treatments and during high summer, when
saunas in an unspoiled setting. finding vacancies in some
Finally, a new breed of establishments can be quite
boutique and design hotels a challenge. Peak times are
aims to make good use of July and August, the period
local artistic traditions; around the May Day public
The façade of the Hotel Wolne Miasto, alongside these is a healthy holiday and New Year’s Eve.
in Gdańsk (see p304) quantity of B&Bs, offering cosy, Accommodation in mountain
characterful and informal resorts tends to be scarce
Hotels accommodation in rural during the Christmas period
Poland offers some of the most areas and mountain resorts. and the skiing season. In
atmospheric and characterful
places to stay in the whole of
Central Europe. The country
boasts an impressive number
of historic, mostly 19th-century
hotels, especially grand old
places like the Hotel Bristol in
Warsaw (see p302) and the
Pollera and Elektor hotels in
Krakow (see p303), which have
preserved the decor and
atmosphere of the belle époque.
There are also a lot of luxury
establishments, notably the
Hotel Stary in Krakow (see p303),
that have made good use of old
buildings, adapting medieval
and Renaissance town houses
to the needs of the modern
hospitality industry, while
leaving a lot of the original
exposed-brick and stone
features intact. Many former
manor houses in the Polish The warm Art Deco ambience at the Rialto hotel in Warsaw (see p302)
A selection of traditional Polish handmade pottery
W H E R E TO S TAY 299
specifically want a bathtub, accommodation prices are

you should enquire about this usually much higher than at
when booking. Rooms in the other times. Wherever you are
more expensive hotels may thinking of staying, it is always
have a mini-bar, 24-hour room worth asking for a discount,
service and laundry facilities, and you stand a good chance
while some have amenities of getting one if you are
such as business centres with planning a longer stay.
computers and fax machines.
Fitness facilities are increasingly
common, but only a handful Hidden Extras
of hotels in the luxury bracket In accordance with Polish
offer spa areas or swimming law, in every hotel the prices
pools. Tourist information is quoted or displayed have to
sometimes available at the include tax and service. In
reception desk, where it might most establishments, they
also be possible to book tickets also include breakfast, but
for various events. this is not always the case, so
Prettily decorated room at the Oki Doki Check-out time is generally it is best to check in advance.
hostel, Warsaw (see p302) noon, but luggage can usually Telephone calls from hotel
be left with reception if you rooms are far more expensive
Warsaw there is a constant flow have an evening flight. Hotel than elsewhere and therefore
of international conferences, staff frequently speak both best avoided.
meetings and festivals, and English and German. Although free Wi-Fi Internet
finding a hotel on arrival may access is increasingly standard
prove difficult at any time, so across the Polish hospitality
booking in advance is vital. Discounts industry, there are still several
In Poznań, accommodation is Hotels often advertise rate hotels (mostly in the business
hard to find during the trade cuts and budget specials on category) that charge for this
fairs that take place here Internet booking sites. In service. Ask before you log on.
throughout the year. general, prices tend to fluctuate On the plus side, however,
according to the season, and Polish hospitality almost
most hotels in Poland reduce always extends to providing
Facilities their prices in autumn and guests with a free supply of
Most of Poland’s hotels offer winter – except in mountain mineral water. Regardless of
en-suite rooms with satellite or resorts, where winter is a peak the standard of the hotel, a
cable television. The provision tourist period. Throughout fresh bottle of sparkling water
of Wi-Fi Internet access is also the year, business and is usually left in your room
pretty standard throughout conference hotels, which are every day. As a rule, if it is
the Polish hotel industry. Even often full on weekdays, tend not in the mini-bar, it is free.
in the better hotels, bathrooms to reduce their prices at When it comes to tipping
may feature a shower rather weekends. Note that in at hotel restaurants, it is
than a bathtub – if you Poznań, during the trade fairs, customary to leave 10 per cent.
You may, however, choose to
give less depending upon the
service you have received. It is
also worth being aware that
saying “thank you” when
paying a bill is automatically
taken to mean “keep the
change”. Tips are not offered
to hotel staff, except at the
most exclusive places.
As a general rule, there is no
reduction for single travellers,
and the same price will be
charged for a double room
regardless of whether it is
occupied by one or two guests.
There are not many single-bed
hotel rooms available for solo
travellers, so try to negotiate
a discount when offered a
The Neptun hotel, situated right on the coast in Łeba (see p305) double room for single use.
apartments are serviced, which

means that they are cleaned
daily or every few days.
Travelling with Children

Children are welcome
everywhere in Poland. Most
hotels offer additional beds for
children, and usually no extra
charge is made for this if the
child is under the age of seven
or eight. However, check that
this is the case when making a
reservation. Only the very best
hotels offer baby-sitting facilities
Blow Up Hall 5050, in Poznań’s Stary Browar complex (see p303) as part of their service.
In hotel restaurants there
Mountain Lodges season. Often simply furnished should be no problem in
Hiking along marked mountain and with a shared bathroom, ordering children’s portions, and
trails has long been a popular this accommodation is much most places have high chairs.
activity in Poland. The network cheaper than a hotel room.
of mountain lodges is very Look for signs reading pokoje
extensive; indeed, it is possible (“rooms”) or contact the local Hostels
to walk the length and breadth tourist office. There is an increasing number
of the Carpathian and Sudeten Numerous apartments in of backpacker hostels in Poland,
mountains staying only in Warsaw and Krakow are made especially in Warsaw and
mountain hostels. available to tourists for short- Krakow, offering cheap, simple
Standards vary from modest or long-term stays. These are dorm accommodation in fun,
to quite comfortable. It is often rented out directly by informal surroundings. A lot
advisable to book in advance, the owner via accommodation of hostels have invested in
although after nightfall the staff websites such as Booking or contemporary design and
cannot refuse to let you in, even Airbnb. There are also a number comforts, and they are similar in
if all the rooms are occupied. At of specialized agents in Krakow, style to small boutique hotels.
worst you will end up sleeping such as Krakow Apartments, Many hostels offer doubles,
on the floor. Mountain lodges Old City Apartments and triples and quads as well as
usually have bathrooms, as well Sodispar, who rent out holiday dorms, and they are increasingly
as buffets serving hot meals. It is apartments in popular central popular with couples and
also possible to hire equipment. locations. Apartments usually families who enjoy the social
have a fully equipped aspects of backpacker culture
kitchenette and a TV; many but who want their own room.
Disabled Travellers also have Wi-Fi Internet access. Hostels in Poland vary a great
Newly built and renovated Some of the more expensive deal in terms of character:
hotels and guesthouses
usually have special facilities
for disabled travellers, such
as wheelchair access and
chair lifts. Specially adapted
rooms are also increasingly
available. However, provision
for special needs is by no
means universal, so it is
advisable to contact the
hotel beforehand to check
what facilities for disabled
people, if any, are provided.
Rooms and Apartments

to Let
Many families living on the
Baltic coast and around the
Mazurian Lakes rent out rooms
to tourists during the summer The communal kitchen area at the Stop Wrocław hostel (see p304)
some have a bar on site and

encourage late-night socializing,
while others offer a bit more
peace and quiet. It will be clear
from the description on each
hostel’s website what kind of
atmosphere they favour.
Breakfast is available at some
hostels, but not all – this can be
checked when making your
booking. Beds in hostels can
be booked via the hostels’
own websites or on specialist
sites such as Hostelworld.
Camping
There is a handful of suburban A cosy room at the Kolory B&B in Krakow (see p303)
campsites in Warsaw, Krakow
and Poznań, and a large number from backpacker hostels to DIRECTORY
of sites in tourist areas such as cosy B&Bs, from boutique
the Baltic coast, the Mazurian hotels to grand historic Internet Booking
Lakes and the Tatra Mountains. establishments and the big, Websites
Most sites are well-equipped luxury skyscrapers for which
Airbnb
affairs with good sanitary Polish cities are increasingly
∑ www.airbnb.com
facilities and electricity for noted. They are listed by price
trailers. The larger ones may also within each area, be that the Booking
offer bungalows, TV lounges, historic quarters of Gdańsk, ∑ www.booking.com
playgrounds and sports pitches. Lublin and Krakow, or the
Hostelworld
While a few campsites are open blissfully unspoiled lakes and
∑ www.hostelworld.com
all year round, most operate villages of rural Poland.
only from early May to the Throughout the listings Disabled Travellers
end of September. The Polish certain hotels have been
Camping and Caravanning highlighted as DK Choice. Office of the Government
Federation provides guides These offer a particularly Plenipotentiary for the
and maps detailing all the special experience, such as Disabled
sites in the country. a beautiful location, a historical Warsaw,
or characterful setting, ul. Nowogrodzka 11.
outstanding views or a Tel 22 529 06 01.
Recommended Hotels great spa . Whatever the ∑ niepelnosprawni.gov.pl
The places to stay listed on reasons, the DK Choice label is
pages 302–5 are the best from a a guarantee of an especially Rooms and
range of accommodation types, memorable stay. Apartments to Let
Krakow Apartments
Tel 502 501 812.
∑ krakow-apartments.com
Old City Apartments

Tel 606 941 483.
∑ oldcityapartments.eu
Sodispar
Tel 12 423 42 44.
∑ sodispar.pl
Camping
Polish Camping and
Caravanning Federation
Warsaw,
ul. Grochowska 331.
Tel 22 810 60 50.
∑ pfcc.eu
A camping site for climbers near Szklarska Poręba, in Silesia

Where to Stay
SleepWell Apartments zł zł Price Guide
Warsaw Boutique Map 4 D1 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
ul. Nowy Świat 62, 00-357 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Chmielna Guesthouse zł Tel 600 300 749
B&B Map 3 C1 ∑ sleepwell-warsaw.pl zł up to 200zł
ul. Chmielna 13, 00-021 These centrally located studio zł zł 200zł to 400zł
zł zł zł over 400zł
Tel 22 828 12 82 apartments have a bold design.
∑ chmielnabb.pl
The charming rooms at this hotel Hotel Bristol zł zł zł KAZIMIERZ DOLNY:
have travel-themed decor. Historic Map 2 D4 Hotel Villa Bohema zł zł zł
Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 00-325 Boutique Map F4
Oki Doki zł Tel 22 551 10 00 ul. Małachowskiego 12, 24-120
Hostel Map 1 C5 ∑ hotelbristolwarsaw.pl Tel 81 881 07 56
pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, 00-057 This sumptuous fin-de-siècle ∑ villabohema.pl
Tel 22 828 01 22 establishment has welcomed VIPs A country-house hotel on the
∑ okidoki.pl such as presidents and rock stars. edge of this well-preserved
A budget hotel decorated in market town. Good spa facilities.
thrift-store style. There’s a bar on Marriott zł zł zł
site and a fully equipped kitchen. Luxury Map 3 A2 LESZNO: Akwawit zł zł
al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, 00-697 Spa resort Map B4
Ibis Stare Miasto zł zł Tel 22 630 63 06 ul. Św Józefa 5, 64-100
Chain Map 1 C1 ∑ marriott.com Tel 65 526 08 11
ul. Muranowska 2, 00-209 This skyscraper draws celebrity ∑ akwawit.pl
Tel 22 310 10 00 guests with its superb facilities, This modern business hotel is
∑ ibis.com casino and penthouse bar. also a spa resort. The adjoining
The functional Ibis is an ideal aquacentre features a large pool.
base for exploring the Old Town. Residence St Andrews
Place zł zł zł ŁÓDŹ: Grand Hotel zł zł
Luxury Map 3 A1 Historic Map D4
DK Choice Chmielna 30, 00-020 ul. Piotrkowska 72, 90-102
Rialto zł zł Tel 22 826 46 60 Tel 42 633 99 20
Boutique ∑ residence.com.pl ∑ grand.hotel.com.pl
ul. Wilcza 73, 00 670 Enjoy short- or long-term stays in Expect bags of charm at this hotel
Tel 22 584 87 00 luxury apartments in a renovated in a pre-World War I building.
∑ hotelrialto.com.pl pre-World War I building.
An elegant Art Deco vibe runs ŁÓDŹ: Andel’s zł zł zł
through this hotel close to the Sofitel Victoria zł zł zł Luxury Map D4
central station. Every detail is a Luxury Map 1 C5 ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91-065
faithful reproduction of Roaring Królewska 11, 00-065 Tel 42 279 10 00
Twenties style, and many of the Tel 22 657 80 11 ∑ vi-hotels.com/en/andels-lodz
bathrooms have beautiful tiling. ∑ sofitel.com Rooms have designer furniture
Amenities include flat-screen The well-furnished rooms at this and exposed brickwork at this
TVs and espresso machines; hotel opposite Warsaw’s Saxon hotel in a former textile factory.
staff are helpful and attentive. Gardens have all the amenities.
LUBLIN: Mercure Lublin zł zł
Chain Map F4
al. Racławickie 12, 20-037
Mazovia and Tel 81 533 20 61
∑ mercure.com
Wielkopolska Opposite the Saxon Gardens and
ANTONIN: Pałac close to the sights, this hotel
Radziwiłłów zł zł offers contemporary, fresh rooms.
Historic Map C4
ul. Pałacowa 1, 63-421
Tel 62 734 83 00 DK Choice
∑ palacantonin.pl LUBLIN: Grand Hotel
The palace’s former hunting lodge Lublinianka zł zł zł
is now a 14-room hotel with basic Historic Map F4
comforts, but lots of atmosphere. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 56,
20-002
GNIEZNO: Dom Pielgrzyma/ Tel 81 446 61 00
Adalbertus zł ∑ lublinianka.com
Historic Map C3 A fully equipped spa centre is
ul. Tumska 7a, 62-200 the latest addition to what has
Tel 61 426 13 60 been Lublin’s finest hotel since it
∑ dompielgrzymagniezno.pl opened in 1900. Contemporary
This hotel in a historic building rooms retain the original
by the cathedral has simple marble bathrooms. It is located
The elegant Art Deco building housing the ensuite rooms. It has an Italian on the main shopping street.
Rialto hotel, Warsaw and a Polish restaurant.
POZNAŃ: Brovaria zł zł
Boutique Map C3
Stary Rynek 73, 74 61-772
Tel 61 858 68 68
∑ brovaria.pl
An Old Town hotel with its own
microbrewery. Rooms are prim,
with dark woods and soft fabrics.
DK Choice
POZNAŃ: Blow Up
Hall 5050 zł zł zł
Luxury Map C3
ul. Kościuszki 42, 61-891
Tel 61 657 99 80
∑ blowuphall5050.com
Named after Antonioni’s 1966 Striking black-and-white decor at the Blow Up Hall 5050, Poznań
film, this design hotel is located
in the Stary Browar complex, a Kolory zł zł
renovated brewery. Rooms B&B Map D5 Małopolska and
feature contemporary gadgets ul. Estery 10, 31-056 Silesia
and original features, such as Tel 12 421 04 65
the half-moon windows. ∑ kolory.com.pl
Located above Les Couleurs café,
this charming B&B has bright en DK Choice
POZNAŃ: IBB Andersia zł zł zł suites decorated with folk art. BIESZCZADY MOUNTAINS,
Luxury Map C3 WETLINA: Leśny Dwór zł
Plac Andersia 3, 61-894 Andel’s zł zł zł B&B Map F6
Tel 61 667 80 00 Chain Map D5 Wetlina 73, 38-608
∑ andersiahotel.pl ul. Pawia 3, 31-154 Tel 13 468 46 54
The hotel in the Andersia Tower, Tel 12 660 01 00 ∑ lesnydwor.bieszczady.pl
Poznań’s tallest building, offers ∑ andelscracow.com Well signposted from the
superb rooms with great views. Jutting out into the plaza in front western end of the village, this
of the train station like an ocean family-run establishment has
ZAMOŚĆ: Hotel Mercury zł zł liner, Andel’s has chic rooms in carefully furnished rooms, a
Chain Map F5 shades of cream and brown. pleasant garden, good home
Kołłątaja 2/4/6, 22-400 cooking and a small library of
Tel 84 639 25 16 local-interest books. The
∑ accorhotels.com DK Choice Bieszczady Mountains are a
Housed in a beautifully renovated Hotel Stary zł zł zł short walk uphill. Half board only.
Renaissance building with a glass- Luxury Map D5
covered atrium in the Old Town. ul. Szczepańska 5, 31-011
Tel 12 384 08 08 CZĘSTOCHOWA:
ZAMOŚĆ: Hotel Senator zł zł ∑ stary.hotel.com.pl Mercure Centrum zł zł
Historic Map F5 Original features – high ceilings Chain Map D5
ul. Rynek Solny 4, 22-400 and exposed brick and stone – ul. Popiełuszki 2, 43-200
Tel 84 638 76 10 are mixed with contemporary Tel 34 360 31 00
∑ senatorhotel.pl furniture at this 15th-century ∑ accorhotels.com
This hotel has plain but merchant’s house. Facilities This hotel in a central location
comfortable good-value rooms. include a subterranean pool, has comfy modern rooms and a
saunas and a spa centre. grand glass-roofed restaurant.
JELENIA GÓRA:
Krakow Komorowski zł zł zł Hotel Jelonek zł zł
Boutique Map D5 Historic Map B4
Mundo Hostel zł ul. Długa 7, 31-147 ul. 1 Maja 5, 58-500
Hostel Map D5 Tel 505 989 371 Tel 75 764 65 41
ul. Sarego 10, 31-047 ∑ hotelkomorowski.com ∑ hoteljelonek.pl
Tel 12 422 61 13 Rooms at this romantic hotel Rooms have plush furnishings
∑ mundohostel.eu feature lots of rich colours, plush in this 12-room hotel in an
This boutique hostel offers furnishings and exposed brick. 18th-century building.
several private double rooms
decorated with ethnic textiles. Pollera zł zł zł KARPACZ:
Historic Map D5 Hotel Karkonosze zł zł
Elektor zł zł ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Resort Map B5
Historic Map D5 Tel 12 422 10 44 ul. Wolna 4, 58-540
ul. Szpitalna 28, 31-024 ∑ pollera.com.pl Tel 75 761 82 77
Tel 12 423 23 17 An Art Nouveau classic in the Old ∑ hotel-karkonosze.com.pl
∑ hotelelektor.pl Quarter, the Pollera was founded A charming mountain hotel with
One of Krakow’s grand dames, in 1834 and has welcomed a wealth of timber features and
with a subtle Old World feel. guests with style ever since. comfortable, modern rooms.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 298–301
SZKLARSKA PORĘBA:
DK Choice Hotel Kryształ zł zł
KATOWICE: Monopol zł zł zł Resort Map B4
Historic Map D5 ul. 1 Maja 19, 58-580
ul. Dworcowa 5, 40-012 Tel 75 717 49 30
Tel 32 782 82 82 ∑ hotelkrysztal.pl
∑ monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl An alpine-style hotel near ski lifts,
The Monopol is something of with a sauna and bowling alley.
a treasure, occupying a Neo-
Gothic building with Art Deco TARNÓW: Hotel Tarnovia zł zł
additions. The rooms are classy Business Map E5
and modern; extra luxury is ul. Kościuszki 10, 33-100
provided by the underground Tel 14 630 03 50
pool and the lovely dining ∑ hotel.tarnovia.pl
room with exposed brick walls. This hotel near the train and bus
stations has simple, comfortable
rooms as well as business facilities.
KIELCE: Hotel Dal zł Twin room with wrought-iron beds at the
Business Map E5 WROCŁAW: Stop Wrocław zł Stop Wrocław, Wrocław
ul. Piotrkowska 12, 25-510 Hostel Map C4
Tel 41 336 10 00 ul. Sienkiewicza 31, 50-349
∑ hoteldal.pl Tel 519 115 075 Gdańsk
A hotel in a sleek glass-fronted ∑ stopwroclaw.pl
building near the main street. In a 19th-century town house Happy Seven zł
near the Botanical Garden, Stop Hostel Map D1
LĄDEK ZDRÓJ: Willa Arabeska zł Wrocław offers characterful, ul. Grodzka 16, 80-841
Historic Map B5 individually decorated rooms. Tel 58 320 86 01
ul. Paderewskiego 4, 57-540 ∑ happyseven.com
Tel 74 814 79 22 WROCŁAW: Europeum zł zł There are big dorms and private
∑ willa-arabeska.pl Luxury Map C4 doubles in this comfy hostel in a
Enjoy easy access to the spa ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A, 50-077 medieval building.
waters from this historic pension. Tel 71 371 44 00
∑ europeum.pl Hotel Wolne Miasto zł
ŁAŃCUT: Pałacyk zł The stylish rooms here, most with Historic Map D1
Historic/B&B Map F5 floor-to-ceiling windows, are ul. św. Ducha 2, 80-834
ul. Paderewskiego 18, 37-100 decorated in muted colours. Tel 58 322 24 42
Tel 17 225 20 43 ∑ hotelwm.pl
∑ palacyk-lancut.pl WROCŁAW: Qubus Hotel zł zł Well-equipped rooms with photos
A bijou inn with a number of Business Map C4 of the city in its heyday capture
timber-beamed attic rooms. ul. św. Marii Magdaleny 2, 50-103 the spirit of pre-war Gdańsk.
Tel 71 797 98 00
OPOLE: Hotel Piast zł zł ∑ qubushotel.com Stay Inn zł zł
Business Map C5 Guests enjoy contemporary decor Hostel Map D1
ul. Piastowska 1, 45-081 and a range of facilities, including ul. Piwna 28/31, 80-831
Tel 77 454 97 10 a pool, at this central hotel. Tel 58 354 15 43
∑ hotel-piast.com ∑ stayinngdansk.com
Rooms have a floral design at this WROCŁAW: Granary zł zł zł This cross between a design hotel
small hotel on Piaseka Island. Boutique Map C4 and a backpacker hostel features
Mennicza 24, 50-057 dorms, doubles and family rooms.
PRZEMYŚL: Europejski zł Tel 71 395 26 00
Business Map F6 ∑ thegranaryhotel.com Hanza zł zł zł
ul. Sowińskiego 4, 37-700 This lovingly restored red-brick Luxury Map D1
Tel 16 675 71 00 granary houses luxurious suites ul. Tokarska 6, 80-888
∑ hotel-europejski.pl with kitchenettes. Tel 58 305 34 27
A hotel in a 19th-century building ∑ hotelhanza.pl
with small but comfortable rooms. ZAKOPANE: Willa Orla zł Thoughtfully designed rooms
B&B Map D6 come with all mod cons in this
SANDOMIERZ: ul. Kościeliska 50, 34-500 hotel in a riverside building.
Pod Ciżemką zł zł Tel 18 201 26 97
Historic Map F5 ∑ orla.com.pl
ul. Rynek 27, 27-600 In a gabled, highland-style DK Choice
Tel 15 832 05 50 property, Willa Orla's breakfast Podewils zł zł zł
∑ hotelcizemka.pl room is full of vintage clocks. Boutique Map D1
An arcaded 17th-century house ul. Szafarnia 2, 80-755
with characterful en-suite rooms. ZAKOPANE: Litwor zł zł zł Tel 58 300 95 60
Luxury Map D6 ∑ podewils.pl
SZCZYRK: Hotel Klimczok zł zł zł ul. Krupówki 40, 34-500 This elegant Baroque-style
Resort Map D6 Tel 18 202 42 00 mansion has rooms overlooking
ul. Poziomkowa 20, 43-370 ∑ litwor.pl Gdańsk’s small marina, and a
Tel 33 826 01 00 In a chalet-style building on the lobby filled with antiques and
∑ klimczok.pl main street, the Litwor offers oil paintings. Amenities include
A modern mountain lodge with swanky rooms with mountain DVD players and Jacuzzi tubs.
bright decor and sporting facilities. views and an indoor pool.
For key to prices see page 302
MIĘDZYZDROJE: Nautilus zł zł SOPOT: Villa Baltica zł zł zł

Pomerania and Historic Map A1 Luxury Map D1
Northeastern Poland Promenada Gwiazd 8, 72-500 ul. Emilii Plater 1, 81-777
Tel 91 328 09 99 Tel 58 555 28 00
AUGUSTÓW: Warszawa zł zł zł ∑ hotel-nautilus.pl ∑ villabaltica.com
Spa resort Map F2 Rooms feature wooden beams A historic building with chic
ul. Zdrojowa 1, 16-300 and a cheerful maritime decor rooms, some with sea views, and
Tel 87 643 85 00 at this seafront hotel. a spa centre.
∑ hotelwarszawa.pl
This bright, low-rise hotel enjoys STARY FOLWARK:
a fabulous forest-and-lake setting. DK Choice Hotel Holiday zł
MIKOŁAJKI: Hotel Resort Map F1
BIAŁYSTOK: Cristal zł zł Mikołajki zł zł zł Stary Folwark 106, 16-402
Business Map F2 Spa resort Map E2 Tel 87 563 71 20
ul. Lipowa 3/5, 15-424 Aleja Spacerowa 11, 11-730 ∑ hotel-holiday.pl
Tel 85 749 61 00 Tel 87 420 60 00 This low-rise near Lake Wigry
∑ hotelcristal.com.pl ∑ hotelmikolajki.pl offers rooms with sloped ceilings,
A city-centre hotel with plush This striking glass-and-steel a sauna and children's play area.
rooms and a pub and restaurant. tower rises from an artificial
island in Lak Talty, linked to SZCZECIN: Hotel Atrium zł zł
DARŁOWO: Pensjonacik Ewa zł the resort of Mikołajki by Business Map A2
B&B Map B1 causeway. Rooms have wood al. Wojska Polskiego 75, 70-481
Mickiewicza 40, 76-150 floors, crisp furnishings and Tel 91 424 35 32
Tel 515 045 360 beautiful views. The ideal place ∑ hotel-atrium.pl
∑ pensjonacikewa.afr.pl for a spot of pampering. A city-centre hotel in a 19th-
Rooms are basic but comfy at century building with an elegant
this family house with a tiny pool. Italian restaurant.
OLSZTYN: Pod Zamkiem zł zł
ELBLĄG: Hotel Żuławy zł zł B&B Map E2 SZCZECIN: Park Hotel zł zł zł
B&B Map D1 ul. Nowowiejskiego 10, 10-162 Luxury Map A2
ul. Królewiecka 126, 82-300 Tel 89 535 12 87 ul. Plantowa 1, 70-527
Tel 55 234 57 11 ∑ hotel-olsztyn.com.pl Tel 91 434 00 50
∑ hotel-zulawy.com.pl There are a handful of neat en ∑ parkhotel.szczecin.pl
A town-centre hotel with en-suite suites, some with balconies, at This quiet hotel in park grounds
rooms, a sauna and a solarium. this restored Art Nouveau house has snug rooms, a swimming
in the parkland beside the castle. pool and a romantic restaurant.
DK Choice SOPOT: Siesta Hostel zł TORUŃ: 1231 zł zł
GDYNIA: Villa Lubicz zł zł Hostel Map D1 Historic Map D2
Historic Map D1 Krasickiego 11, 81-836 ul. Przedzamcze 6, 87-100
ul. Orłowska 43, 81-522 Tel 790 639 011 Tel 56 619 09 10
Tel 58 668 47 40 ∑ siestahostel.pl ∑ hotel1231.pl
∑ willalubicz.pl Choose between doubles and In a 13th-century mill beside the
Sea views and lots of wood dorms at this hostel with several Teutonic castle, 1231 has modern
panelling lend an impressive communal areas and a garden. rooms in a medieval atmosphere.
tone to this Modernist hotel
near the seafront in Orlowo, SOPOT: Hotel Haffner zł zł zł TORUŃ: Petite Fleur zł zł
south of central Gdynia. Luxury Map D1 Boutique Map D2
ul. J.J. Haffnera 59, 81-715 ul. Piekary 25, 87-100
Tel 58 550 99 99 Tel 56 621 51 00
GIŻYCKO: Hotel Cesarski zł ∑ hotelhaffner.pl ∑ petitefleur.pl
B&B Map F2 Modern rooms, plus a state-of- A cosy hotel in the Old Town with
plac Grunwaldzki 8, 11-500 the-art spa and pool feature here. smart en suites and great service.
Tel 87 732 76 70
∑ cesarski.eu
A 19th-century town house near
Lake Niegocin with cosy rooms.
ŁEBA: Neptun zł zł zł
Historic Map C1
ul. Sosnowa 1, 84-360
Tel 59 866 14 32
∑ neptunhotel.pl
The luxurious rooms in this hotel
in a 1903 building have sea views.
MALBORK: Stary Malbork zł zł

Historic Map D1
ul. 17 Marca 26, 82-200
Tel 55 647 24 00
∑ hotelstarymalbork.com.pl
In a 19th-century building, this
hotel has simple, comfy rooms. Floor-to-ceiling windows in a room at the Hotel Wolne Miasto, Gdańsk (see p304)
For more information on types of hotels see pages 298–301

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Polish cuisine is one of the most easily Generally, it is not difficult to find a good
identifiable culinary traditions in Central restaurant in a large town or city; in smaller
Europe, with dishes such as borscht (or towns a little exploration may be required to
barszcz), pierogi and roast duck with apples uncover a restaurant serving good,
enjoying iconic status both at home and inexpensive food. The restaurants and bars
abroad. Most restaurants serve classic Polish listed on pages 310–19 have been selected
dishes such as these, although there is an on the basis of the quality of their food and
increasing range of establishments serving service, but also as a reflection of the sheer
French, Mediterranean or Asian food. variety of culinary styles now on offer.
offer contemporary designer self-service eatery where

interiors or opt instead for a inexpensive soups, pierogi,
range of retro styles, with potato pancakes, pork chops
candles on the table and and other Polish staples are
antique furniture. An increasing served. The decor is often
number of restaurants have plain in places like these,
large areas of outdoor seating, but prices are rock bottom –
especially on big urban squares. diners can enjoy a three-
Restaurants in rural areas can course meal for as little as
be delightful, with wooden 20zł. Milk bars often close
beams, rustic knick-knacks and early (usually late afternoon
maybe a cottage garden. or early evening, or when
In general, there’s a good the food has sold out).
and growing choice of haute Another common feature
cuisine and modern fusion of the cheap-restaurant scene
cooking in Poland’s main cities, is the pierogarnia or pierogi bar,
Exposed brickwork and hanging tapestries while in the countryside, often serving imaginative
at Cyrano de Bergerac, Krakow (see p314) home cooking and regional variations on this national
gastronomic traditions are staple food.
Meals nurtured. Wherever you go, A popular addition to the
The classic Polish breakfast restaurants are not too formal, Polish dining scene is the
has a high calorie content and there is no real dress code. so-called vodka-and-herring
and sets you up for the day. bar. These establishments
It consists of boiled, fried or serve spirits and traditional
scrambled eggs, plus smoked Canteen Restaurants and bar snacks (marinated herring
meats and cheese. Traditionally, Vodka-and-Herring Bars being one ubiquitous favourite)
the evening meal – consisting Much of the best local food at very affordable prices. Some
of soup, a main course (usually is found in a so-called “milk vodka-and-herring bars are
a meat dish) and a dessert – is bar” (bar mleczny), a budget open around the clock.
the most important meal of the
day. However, many Polish
restaurants are gradually
adopting a lighter menu suited
to midday lunchers, with an
increasing range of salads,
pasta dishes and soups.
Restaurants
Those who enjoy good food
in a pleasant atmosphere
will not be disappointed in
Poland. Many restaurants in
the big cities are housed in
historic buildings or medieval
cellars, usually painstakingly
restored and tastefully
furnished. Restaurants in
Warsaw, Gdańsk, Krakow
and Wrocław frequently The sleek decor at Asian fusion restaurant Papaya, in Warsaw (see p310)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 307
ethnic restaurants, but also

from salad bars, which are
very popular and also serve
freshly pressed fruit and
vegetable juices. In some
restaurants you can put
together your own salad.
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed on
pages 310–19 have been
chosen to give a cross-section
of the most noteworthy places
to eat in Poland. Whether
located in the bustling centre of
Warsaw, the evocative former
Jewish quarter of Kazimierz in
Wooden benches at traditional Sielsko Anielsko restaurant, Lublin (see p312) Krakow or the rustic towns and
villages of rural Poland, each
Street Food Vegetarian Food restaurant has earned a
Poland’s favourite street Most restaurants in Poland noteworthy reputation.
snack, the zapiekanka, is a serve at least some vegetarian The listings cover a range
halved baguette covered in dishes. Italian eateries, which of eateries and cuisine types,
meat, cheese and vegetables, usually have a handful of meat- from traditional Polish canteens
then toasted. Zapiekankas are free pizzas and pasta dishes on and Central European and Jewish
sold from fast-food kiosks all their menus, are a good stand- restaurants to pizzerias, Asian
over Poland. Other ubiquitous by. Traditional local dishes – eateries, establishments
features of the Polish street- such as pierogi (dumplings) specializing in fish and seafood,
food scene are grilled sausages filled with sauerkraut, wild characterful cafés and smart,
and, in coastal and lake resorts, mushrooms, cheese or fruit, as elegant restaurants offering
fish and chips. well as all kinds of savoury gourmet dining.
pancakes, omelettes and knedle Some establishments have
(potato dumplings) – are very been labelled as DK Choice.
Prices and Tips popular. Colourful salads are These stand out from the crowd
The price of food in Polish available in all restaurants. and offer something particularly
restaurants is below the Beetroot, carrots, cabbage, special, such as exceptional
European average. Certainly cauliflower, celeriac and leeks food, an inventive menu, great
100zł per person will suffice for are perennial favourites, but value for money, a beautiful
a three-course meal without aubergines, broccoli, celery, setting, particular charm or a
alcohol in all but the most endives and courgettes have combination of these factors.
expensive places. If you do also been introduced to Polish Whatever the reason, it is a
wish to drink alcohol with cuisine. Tasty vegetarian food is guarantee of an especially
your meal, this will add a available not only from most memorable meal.
substantial amount to the
bill. Sometimes, menu prices
apply just to the main dish, and
an extra charge is made for
potatoes, salads and other side
dishes. Fish is often priced by
weight; ask the server what the
likely cost of your meal will be.
Credit cards are becoming
ever more popular and should
be readily accepted by all the
larger restaurants and those
located on the main tourist
trail. Signs on windows or
doors indicate which cards are
accepted by the establishment.
All over Poland a customary
tip amounts to about ten per
cent of the bill. The sheltered patio at the Italian restaurant Del Papa, in Krakow (see p314)
308 TRAVELLER’S NEEDS
The Flavours of Poland

Polish cuisine, like that of many Central European countries, makes
heavy use of meat, especially pork, which is often served quite
plainly with potatoes or rice and cabbage. However, because of
the long Baltic coastline in the north of the country, fish is also
likely to feature on many menus. Carp, trout and herring are
particular favourites. Around Krakow, in the south, the local forests Pickled herring
yield a bounty of quality game, with duck being very popular. The
legacy of former rule by Austria is also evident in the south,
especially in some of the sophisticated cakes and pastries.
quality veal (cielęcina), which (wątróbka), served with a

is often dished up with a rich fruit sauce, are considered
mushroom sauce (cielęcina po a delicacy.
staropolsku) or with cabbage A wide variety of game
and raisins. roams the forests of southern
Poland. Pheasant (bażant),
duck (kaczka), goose (gęś),
Poultry and Game venison (comber), rabbit (królik)
Chicken (kurczak) is a staple and hare (zając) are found on
food in Poland and drumsticks many local menus. Availability
(podudzie) are especially varies with the season; autumn
popular. Chicken livers is the best time to enjoy game.
Barbecuing meat at a street celebration
on Palm Sunday Parówka (pork Gruba krakowska Chicken kabanos
frankfurters) (smoked garlic (air-cured sausage with
Meat sausage) caraway seeds)
Wiejska (garlic Podwawelska
Pork (wieprzowina) is the most and herb (smoked sausage)
sausage)
popular meat by far in Poland.
It usually comes as a steak
(kotlet schabowy) or on the
bone (golonka wieprzowa) and
also appears in soups, sausages
and as hams. Polish hams are
generally cured and have a rich,
sweet flavour. Ham is mainly
served cold as an appetizer with Zagórska (smooth
cheese and pickles, though it Smoked pork loin textured, smoked
may also be eaten for breakfast. sausage)
Poland also produces high- Selection of typical Polish sausages and cured meat
Local Dishes and Specialities

Many classic Polish dishes are offered at restaurants all
over the country, but fish also features prominently
on northern menus, while those of the south
offer a range of game. The most varied and
cosmopolitan cuisine is found in large cities,
such as Warsaw and Krakow, where top chefs
run the kitchens of some of the grand hotels.
The national dish, bigos, comes from eastern
Poland. It is hearty and warming for the long,
Green cabbage bleak winters found there, as is another dish from
this chilly region, pierogi (pasta dumplings, stuffed
with meat, cheese or fruit). Both are influenced by the food of
Bigos Chunks of meat and
neighbouring Russia. Polish cakes and desserts also tend to be
sausage are simmered with
heavy and rich, although most originate in the warmer south,
sauerkraut, cabbage, onion,
once ruled by Austria.
potatoes, herbs and spices.
W H E R E TO E AT 309
sauerkraut are on every menu.

Potatoes are also a staple. They
come boiled, baked and
mashed, though rarely roasted.
Peppers are popular too, often
served stuffed with rice and
minced meat or pickled in
summer salads. Root vegetables
such as carrots, parsnips, swede
(rutabaga), turnips and beetroot
make their way into a range of
dishes. Mushrooms grow wild
all over Poland and come both
cooked and pickled as a tasty
addition to many meals.
A colourful display of locally grown vegetables at a city market stall SNACKS

Fish Vegetables Sausages A wide range of
Fish features strongly on Poland produces many fine smoked and unsmoked varieties
are on offer at the profusion of
menus in northern Poland, quality vegetables. The hardy
street stalls and snack bars
where herring (śledź) is a cabbage (kapusta) remains the
that can be found on most
central part of the diet. It country’s top vegetable. It is
city streets.
comes pickled, in oil, with used in so many ways, including
onions, with soured cream – raw in salads and simply Precles (pretzels) Another
in fact, with just about boiled to partner meat or fish. favourite street snack, these are
popular, freshly baked, at train
everything. Rolmops po Cabbage soup (kapuśniak) and
and bus stations first thing in
kaszubsku (marinated herring
the morning.
wrapped around pickled
onion, then spiked with cloves Zapiekanki Often referred to
and dipped in soured cream) as Polish-style pizzas, these are
are widely enjoyed. Other tasty, open-top baguettes,
spread with cheese and tomato,
popular fish are freshwater
then toasted and served piping
trout (pstrąg) – served simply
hot. They are also a common
grilled with boiled potatoes; item on street-stall menus.
carp (karp) – often
accompanied by horseradish Smalec This snack consists of
sauce; and salmon (łosoś). A fried lard, liberally sprinkled with
sea salt, and eaten with chunks
treat in early summer is
of crusty bread. It can be found
smoked salmon served with
as a bar snack in most pubs and
spears of fresh asparagus makes a good accompaniment
(łosoś wędzony ze szparagami), Polish pretzels on sale in a to beer.
which is then in season. Krakow bread shop
Pierogi These ravioli-style Barszcz This beetroot soup, Poppy seed roll A rich yeasted
dumplings may be stuffed with flavoured with lemon and dough is wrapped around a
meat, sauerkraut, mushrooms, garlic, may be served clear or sweet poppy-seed filling and
cheese or fruit. with beans or potatoes. baked until lightly golden.
Where to Eat and Drink

staff busily serving large Price Guide
Warsaw portions of pork knuckle and Prices are based on a three-course meal
schnitzel to tables heaving with per person, with a half-bottle of house
wine, including tax and service.
Café 6/ zł hungry customers.
International Map 3 C2 zł up to 50zł
ul. Żurawia 6/12, 00-503 Browarmia zł zł zł zł 50zł to 80zł
zł zł zł over 80zł
Tel 22 622 53 33 Brewery Restaurant Map 2 D4
This versatile café-restaurant offers ul. Królewska 1, 00-065
a broad choice of light and main Tel 22 826 54 55 LIF zł zł
meals, ranging from breakfasts This busy brewpub has copper Vegetarian
to salads, plus a selection of brewing vats at the back and a al. Niepodległości 80, 02-626
Oriental-style spiced dishes. street-facing terrace at the front. Tel 22 898 01 55
It serves a great range of craft This modern restaurant with a
Kafka Café zł beers. Grilled meats are the hip atmosphere and a sharply
Café Map 2 D5 speciality dish, best washed dressed clientele serves a
ul. Obózna 3, 00-001 down with Browarmia’s own brew. wide range of salads, soups
Tel 22 826 08 22 and vegetarian mains.
Pastas, quiches, sandwiches and Le Cedre zł zł
salads are served in this bright, Lebanese
hip café, which offers deckchair al. Solidarności 61, 03-402 DK Choice
seating on the neighbouring Tel 22 670 11 66 Warsaw Tortilla Factory zł zł
lawn in the summer months. Across the river from the Old Tex-Mex Map 3 B3
Town, Le Cedre cooks up superb ul. Wilcza 46, 00-679
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska zł Middle Eastern skewered meats Tel 22 621 86 22
Classic Polish Map 3 C2 and vegetable dishes in an Located just south of the
al. Jerozolimskie 32, 00-024 interior that looks like a scene Palace of Culture and Science,
Tel 602 381 734 from 1,001 Nights. this restaurant offers the best
This is the place for good-value Mexican-style food in Poland,
dishes, served in a friendly India Curry zł zł with an array of hot salsas. Still
manner in a bright interior. There Indian Map 2 C2 moderately priced by Warsaw
aren’t many tables, so expect a ul. Żurawia 22, 00-515 standards, the Tortilla Factory
crush at lunchtime. Tel 22 438 93 50 is regularly crowded with
A varied menu of truly spicy, both locals and foreigners
Zapiecek zł typical dishes, including plenty enjoying their excellent
Classic Polish Map 3 C2 of vegetarian options, are offered burritos, quesadillas and fajitas.
al. Jerozolimskie 28 in a tasteful, relaxing interior at The bar area serves one of the
Tel 22 826 74 84 India Curry. best margaritas in the city.
The menu here features a broad
choice of speciality pierogi, Kompania Piwna zł zł
including large baked ones. There Classic Polish Map 2 D3 Belvedere zł zł zł
are also soups and pancakes. ul. Podwale 25, 00-261 Gourmet Map 3 C5
Tel 22 635 63 14 ul. Agrykola 1, 00-460
Adler zł zł An Old Town gem, with a Tel 22 558 67 00
German Map 3 C3 courtyard designed to resemble Housed in a conservatory in
ul. Mokotowska 69, 00-530 a town square, this restaurant’s Łazienki Park, Belvedere delivers
Tel 22 628 73 84 menu features heaps of meat classic French cuisine of the
Adler embodies the atmosphere and potato dishes, all served on highest order. Enjoy your meal
of a Bavarian beer hall, with wooden boards. while watching the peacocks
on the lawn outside. Black-
tie service.
Dom Polski zł zł zł
Classic Polish
ul. Francuska 11, 03-906
Tel 22 616 24 32
In the embassy-filled Saska Kepa
district, Dom Polski serves some
of the classiest fare in Poland. The
menu is seasonal and often
features fantastic game dishes.
Papaya zł zł zł
Asian fusion Map 4 D1
ul. Foksal 16, 00-372
Tel 22 826 48 51
On a popular bar-and-restaurant
strip, this upscale restaurant
serves imaginative Oriental
meat and seafood dishes in
Enjoying a quick bite at the trendy Kafka Café, in Warsaw über-cool surroundings.
DK Choice
Różana zł zł zł
Classic Polish
ul. Chocimska 7, 00-791
Tel 22 848 12 25
One of the most attractive
restaurants in Warsaw, Różana
is located in a villa southwest
of Łazienki Park. The dining
rooms look like they belong
in an English country house,
and there is a beautiful garden
to boot. Expect traditional food
beautifully presented, with liver,
tenderloin steaks, roast duck,
freshwater fish and game
dominating the menu. The
meringue desserts are a treat.
The ornate entrance of U Fukiera, Warsaw

Sakana Sushi Bar zł zł zł
Asian Map 1 C4 food, a sit-down restaurant
ul. Moliera 4/6, 00-076 Mazovia and service and a kitchen counter
Tel 22 826 59 58 Wielkopolska that looks like a vintage tram. It
There are dozens of sushi joints is a very popular venue, and
across Warsaw, and this is one of CHEŁM: Gęsie Sprawki zł zł both the service and turnover
the best, serving a delectable Eastern European/Italian Map G4 are quick.
range of Japanese classics to a ul. Lubelska 27, 22-100
fashion-conscious crowd. Tel 82 565 23 21 ŁÓDŹ: U Szwajcara zł
In an atmospheric cellar, this Central European Map D4
San Lorenzo zł zł zł restaurant serves a mouth- ul. Tymienieckiego 22, 90-422
Italian Map 1 A3 watering combination of Eastern Tel 42 674 04 40
al. Jana Pawla II 36, 01-141 Polish and Lithuanian dishes, plus The red-brick former gatehouse
Tel 22 652 16 16 pizzas and Mediterranean salads. of a once-great textile factory is
An elegant place with frescoes now famous for its superb-value
on the walls, imported Italian GRABOWNO: food, with an accent on meat,
furniture and a refined menu Dworek Koper zł zł poultry and goulash dishes.
of freshly made pasta and Classic Polish/Lithuanian Map C2
delicious Mediterranean seafood. Grabowno 36, 89-350 ŁÓDŹ: Anatewka zł zł
Tel 67 287 41 28 Jewish Map D4
Sekret zł zł zł This rambling manor house on the ul. 6 Sierpna 2/4, 90-422
Classic Polish Map 2 D3 road between Pila and Bydgoszcz Tel 42 630 36 35
ul. Jezuicka 1/3, 00-272 serves Polish and Lithuanian Diners come here for the fine
Tel 22 635 74 74 delights in an antique-filled room. selection of Jewish and Central
The menu at this stylish European dishes, served in a
restaurant housed in a maze JAROCIN: Gościniec dining room decorated with
of 16th-century cellars offers a Walcerek zł zł menorahs, prayer shawls, sepia
vast selection of traditional roast Classic Polish Map C3 photographs and traditional
meat and game dishes. Located ul. Poznańska 73, 63-200 textiles. There is live violin or
close to the Royal Castle. Tel 62 747 28 18 piano music every evening.
With an eclectic interior and a
U Fukiera zł zł zł quiet terrace, this chalet-style
Classic Polish Map 2 D3 guesthouse serves pork-and- DK Choice
Rynek Starego Miasta 27, 00-275 cabbage Polish cuisine at its finest. ŁÓDŹ: Ciągoty i Tęsknoty zł zł
Tel 22 831 10 13 Gourmet Map D4
Set inside a warren of beautiful KAZIMIERZ DOLNY: ul. Wojska Polskiego 144, 91-711
dining rooms, this restaurant Zielona Tawerna zł zł Tel 42 650 87 94
focuses on classic Polish meat Classic Polish Map F4 Something of a culinary cult
and poultry roasts, presented ul. Nadwiślańska 4, 24-120 in this part of Poland, this
with style and ingenuity. Tel 81 881 03 08 café-restaurant close to the
Traditional dishes – from pierogi Jewish cemetery offers an
Warszawa Wschodnia zł zł zł to roast duck – are served in a exciting and inventive menu
Gourmet light interior or in the enclosed that combines rustic French
ul. Mińska 25, 03-808 garden. There are good traditions with contemporary
Tel 22 870 29 18 vegetarian options, too. Polish cuisine. Never too
Modern Polish-European expensive, it’s popular with
cuisine is served up in chic ŁÓDŹ: Manekin zł students and professors from
surroundings in the red-brick Pancake House Map D4 the Fine Arts Academy in the
Soho compound, a former ul. 6 Sierpna 1, 90-422 park opposite. Art exhibitions
factory in the Praga suburb. The Tel 42 671 07 84 and frequent live music add
menu changes daily according This pancake bar has a huge to the cultural vibe.
to what’s fresh and in season. menu of inexpensive but filling
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 306–7
ŁOWICZ: Pizzeria POZNAŃ: Brovaria zł zł

House Toskania zł Brewery Restaurant Map C3
Italian Map D3 Stary Rynek 73/74, 61-772
ul. 3-go Maja 8, 99-400 Tel 61 858 68 68
Tel 46 837 83 51 Predictably, given its location
Located just off Stary Rynek, this in a microbrewery on the main
restaurant serves a range of square, this elegant restaurant
pizzas. Dine in the attractive serves excellent beer. The menu
wooden bench-filled back garden of Central European and
or sit at a snug booth overlooked Mediterranean dishes is loaded
by the Łowicz coat of arms. with creativity and finesse.
LUBLIN: Sielsko Anielsko zł POZNAŃ: Zagroda

Classic Polish Map F4 Bamberska zł zł
Rynek 17, 20-111 Central European Map C3
Tel 81 532 36 17 ul. Kościelna 43, 60-534
Agricultural tools and folksy Tel 61 842 77 90
implements are scattered Savour traditional regional
artfully around the interior of dishes, such as roast duck
this restaurant serving a huge with cranberry sauce, in this The rustic but stylish interior of Lublin’s
range of traditional staples. 19th-century farm-style building Sielsko Anielsko
with flower baskets hanging
LUBLIN: Hades Szeroka zł zł from wooden beams. PUŁAWY:
Classic Polish Map F4 Willa Cienista zł zł
ul. Grodzka 21, 20-112 POZNAŃ: Beejays zł zł zł Classic Polish/
Tel 81 532 87 61 Steakhouse Map C3 Mediterranean Map F4
Enjoy elegant, candle-lit dining in Stary Rynek 88, 61-772 ul. Zielona 23, 24-100
the Old Town. The restaurant is Tel 61 853 11 15 Tel 81 888 09 37
famous for its steak tartare, but its A popular main-square grill Housed in a modern villa built
freshwater fish and poultry roasts house, Beejays specializes in in the style of a Tyrolean chalet,
are good too. steaks (mostly beef, although you Willa Cienista serves a wide range
will also find kangaroo and other of dishes – from Italian pasta
LUBLIN: Kardamon zł zł exotic meats). Wash the food to the classic Polish roast goose –
Gourmet Map F4 down with something from their in an atmosphere of relaxed
Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, 20-007 big range of spirits and cocktails. rural elegance.
Tel 81 448 02 57
European haute cuisine is served POZNAŃ: Delicja zł zł zł WIĄZOWNA:
in an intimate, atmospherically lit Gourmet Map C3 Zajazd u Mikulskich zł zł
interior. Highlights include the pl. Wolności 5, 61-738 Classic Polish Map E3
steaks, roast duck and stuffed Tel 61 852 11 28 ul. Parkingowa 18a, 05-462
goose; imaginative salads and A long-standing favourite Tel 22 780 41 96
pastas provide lighter options. among Poznań foodies, Delicja Located in a mock country
serves an imaginative mix of mansion, this restaurant
LUBLIN: La Traviata zł zł French, Italian and Polish features starched napkins,
Italian Map F4 cuisines in an elegant interior impeccable service by bow-
ul. Chopina 16, 22-023 full of ticking clocks. tied staff, and some of the
Tel 81 534 20 94 Closed Sun best food in the Mazovia
Great pizzas from a wood-fired POZNAŃ: Nowa region. The menu is biased
oven are served in a homely, Bażanciarnia zł zł zł towards fish and pork dishes.
rustic-themed room. There’s also Classic Polish/
a good choice of pasta dishes, Mediterranean Map C3 ZAMOŚĆ: Muzealna zł
plus meat and poultry mains. Stary Rynek 94, 61-773 Regional Map F5
Tel 61 855 33 58 ul. Ormiańska 30, 22-400
NAŁĘCZÓW: Patataj zł zł There is a superb range of Tel 84 638 73 00
Classic Polish Map F4 dishes (including rabbit and Big portions of traditional
Kolonia Bochotnica 15, 24-150 pheasant, as well as roast duck) Eastern Polish fare are served
Tel 81 501 47 01 Closed Mon at this elegant three-room in this restaurant housed in a
Just east of Nałęczów, on the road restaurant decorated with wood historic building on Zamość’s
to Lublin, this traditional family- panelling, brightly coloured main square. The undisputed
run restaurant is housed in a 19th- textiles and flowers. menu highlight is the pork
century manor house boasting chops with buckwheat.
fabulous views over the forests. POZNAŃ: Le Palais
du Jardin zł zł zł ZAMOŚĆ: Padwa zł zł
POZNAŃ: Petit Paris zł French Map C3 Classic Polish Map F5
Café/Patisserie Map C3 Stary Rynek 37, 61-772 ul. Staszica 23, 22-400
ul. Półwiejska 32, 61-888 Tel 61 665 85 85 Tel 84 638 62 56
Tel 61 667 15 55 Directly opposite the town hall, Boasting an enviable main-
Inside the Stary Browar shopping Le Palais du Jardin offers nouvelle square location, this grand,
mall and arts centre, this bakery cuisine at its finest, backed up by brick-walled café-restaurant
and café serves delicious an outstanding wine list. Dine in offers a selection of classic
sandwiches, soups, salads and the sleek ground-floor dining Polish fare, including such
quiches. Pastries, tarts and great room or in the barrel-vaulted main courses as pork chops
coffee round off the experience. brick cellar. and potato pancakes.
Pierożki u Vincenta zł Marmolada zł zł

DK Choice Classic Polish Map D5 Classic Polish Map D5
ZWIERZYNIEC: ul. Bożego Ciała 12, 31-056 Grodzka 5, 31-044
Karczma Młyn zł zł Tel 506 806 304 Tel 12 396 49 46
Regional Map F5 This tiny restaurant offers a wide Traditional Polish cuisine is
Wachniewskiej 1a, 22-470 range of pierogi. The classic on offer at this smart but
Tel 84 687 25 27 pastry pockets are stuffed here soothing restaurant, where a
Occupying a traditional timber with all kinds of creative, non- profusion of candles and cut
building near the lake, the “Mill traditional fillings. There are even flowers provides the ambience.
Inn” is a great place to sample some exotically spicy versions.
Eastern Polish favourites, such
as pierogii with buckwheat, or U Babci Maliny zł DK Choice
game goulash with forest Classic Polish Map 6 D1 Miód Malina zł zł
mushrooms. Dishes are served ul. Sławkowska 17 Classic Polish Map D5
in an atmospheric interior of Tel 12 422 76 01 ul. Grodzka 40, 31-044
wood-panelled walls studded Krakow has no shortage of Tel 12 430 04 11
with hunting trophies. The queue-at-the-counter budget Occupying several barrel-
highlight on the drinks menu restaurants, and this is one of the vaulted rooms filled with
is Zwierzyniec beer, from the best, serving classic Polish fare in solid wooden furniture
small brewery just up the road. a folksy bench-filled basement. and decorated in raspberry
shades of red, Miód Malina
Zapiecek zł (“Honey Raspberry”) is one
Classic Polish Map D5 of the most welcoming and
ul. Sławkowska 32, 31-015 convivial places in central
Krakow Tel 12 422 74 95 Krakow. On the menu is
Zapiecek is something of a traditional Polish festive fare,
temple to the humble pierogi. with generous portions of
The famous stuffed dumplings meat and poultry followed
DK Choice are served with a range of fillings, by some lovely desserts.
Ambasada Śledzia zł with savoury, sweet and baked
Classic Polish Map D5 versions well represented.
ul. Stolarska 8/10, 31-030 Pietro zł zł
Tel 662 569 460 Horai zł zł Italian Map D5
An outstanding example of the Asian Map D5 Rynek Główny 17, 31-008
vodka-and-snack bars cropping pl. Wolnica 4, 31-000 Tel 12 422 32 79
up all over Poland, the “Herring Tel 12 430 03 58 You do pay for the location at
Embassy” serves traditional Horai has a menu that covers this restaurant on the main
Polish bar food – potato pie, the entire continent of Asia, and square, but the food is delicious
marinated fish, meat in aspic – it offers dependable standards and made with ingredients
at rock-bottom prices. Vodka across the board. The Thai imported from Italy.
shots and glasses of beer are curries are particularly satisfying.
also cheap; no wonder the Zazie Bistro zł zł
outdoor terrace is always full. Klezmer-Hois zł zł French Map D5
Jewish Map D5 ul. Józefa 34, 31-056
ul. Szeroka 6, 31-053 Tel 500 410 829
Camelot zł Tel 12 411 16 22 This intimate French-themed
Café Map D5 Enjoy quality kosher Jewish and bistro serves everything from
ul. św. Tomasza 17, 31-022 Central European fare in an onion soup to bouillabaisse
Tel 12 421 01 23 atmospheric restaurant filled with and mussels with fries. With
A relaxing, mildly bohemian café bric-a-brac. Weekend klezmer moderate prices and only a
with a cabaret club downstairs, music is a an added bonus. handful of tables, it’s often busy.
Camelot is famous for its coffee,
fine cakes and delicious apple pie.
Chimera zł
Classic Polish Map D5
ul. św. Anny 3, 31-008
Tel 12 292 12 12
At this buffet restaurant in a
roofed courtyard, diners pay
according to plate size, so it is
ideal for trying different dishes.
Lots of vegetarian options, too.
La Petite France zł
Café Map D5
ul. św. Tomasza 25, 31-024
Tel 12 370 20 74
Combining a deli store and a
café, this cosy, intimate spot
serves some of the finest quiche
in Poland, in addition to some
serious gourmet sandwiches. Outdoor seating at Camelot café, Krakow
BRZESKO: Pawilon zł
Classic Polish Map E5
ul. Wesoła 4, 32-800
Tel 14 663 17 61
Wholesome, good-value Polish
fare, including many types of
pierogi, are served in this inn
decorated with floral folk patterns.
CIESZYN: Kamienica
Konczakowskich zł zł
Classic Polish Map D6
Rynek 19, 43-400
Tel 33 852 18 96
Located on the main square, this
restaurant has retro furnishings,
The vaulted, exposed-brick interior of Del Papa, in Krakow lace tablecloths and a varied
menu of classics, from potato
Aqua e Vino zł zł zł are served in this atmospheric pancakes to roast duck.
Italian Map D5 brick-lined basement room
ul. Wiślna 5/10, 31-007 beneath the Gródek hotel. CZĘSTOCHOWA:
Tel 12 421 25 67 Café Skrzynka zł
At this trendy Italian restaurant, Studio Qulinarne zł zł zł International Map D5
the dishes appear as carefully Gourmet Map D5 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, 42-200
designed as the interior. Expect ul. Gazowa 4, 31-060 Tel 34 324 30 98
imaginative takes on classic Tel 12 430 69 41 A chic, homely café serving a
recipes and superb desserts. One of the most inventive large, inexpensive selection of
restaurants in town, Studio sweet and savoury pancakes.
Copernicus zł zł zł Qulinarne uses fresh Polish Freshly made sandwiches and
Gourmet Map D5 ingredients, Mediterranean flair soups of the day make excellent
ul. Kanonicza 16, 31-002 and a touch of Oriental spice to light lunches.
Tel 12 424 34 21 conjure up an original menu
Superlative food and exemplary served in an elegant interior. GLIWICE: Spichlerz zł zł zł
service are to be enjoyed in this Gourmet Map D5
atmospheric hotel restaurant that Wentzl zł zł zł ul. Wiejska 16b, 44-121
specializes in classic French Gourmet Map D5 Tel 32 333 10 11
cuisine and in game dishes. Rynek Główny 19, 31-008 Located inside a converted
Tel 12 429 52 99 granary, this restaurant serves
Cyrano de Bergerac zł zł zł Traditional Polish fare, with a steaks, local game and classic
Gourmet Map D5 predominance of roast fowl and European dishes in an exposed-
ul. Sławkowska 26, 31-014 pork, is on offer at this historic brick interior.
Tel 12 411 72 88 restaurant boasting high ceilings,
This is a world-class French oak floors and lavish fabrics. GŁOGOCZÓWDWOR:
restaurant with impeccable Nowina zł zł
service, set in two elegant rooms. Contemporary Polish Map D6
Be sure to try the desserts. Dwór, 32-440
Małopolska and Tel 12 273 77 15
Del Papa zł zł zł Silesia Enjoy outstanding game dishes
Italian Map D5 and lavish platters of roast meats
ul. św. Tomasza 6, 31-014 BIESZCZADY MOUNTAINS, at this award-winning restaurant
Tel 12 421 83 43 WETLINA: serving rustic Polish cooking with
One of Krakow’s best Italians, Del Chata Wędrowca zł zł a modern urban twist.
Papa has a menu that features International Map F6
classic meat dishes as well as Wetlina 113, 38-608 KATOWICE: A Dong zł
Mediterranean seafood. Diners Tel 500 225 533 Asian Map D5
can enjoy their meal in a Set back slightly from the main Wawelska 3, 40-096
secluded patio at the back. road at the western end of Tel 32 258 66 62
Wetlina, the “Wayfarer’s Cabin” Decorated with the requisite
Farina zł zł zł is renowned for its local-meets- paper lanterns, this restaurant in
Seafood Map D5 global menu, which features the central pedestrian area offers
ul. św. Marka 16, 31-018 lamb, mountain trout and an extensive menu of good-value
Tel 12 422 18 60 marinated meats. Vietnamese and Chinese dishes.
This informal Mediterranean-
themed restaurant specializes in BRENNA: Skalny Dworek zł KATOWICE: Złoty Osioł zł
fish. Fine white fish is served Classic Polish Map D6 Vegetarian Map D5
grilled, pan-fried or baked. ul. Wyzwolenia 45, 43-438 ul. Mariacka 1, 40-077
Tel 33 853 61 16 Tel 501 465 690
Gródek zł zł zł Large portions of traditional Decked out in Oriental textiles
Gourmet Map D5 country-style cooking, with an and comfortable cushions, this
Na Gródku 4, 31-028 accent on roast meat and legendary vegetarian café offers
Tel 12 431 20 41 poultry, are served in this chalet- an innovative and filling range
Polish and international dishes, style restaurant with a scenic of soups, pasta and tofu dishes,
prepared with flair and invention, summer terrace. and pastries.
KIELCE: American Home zł OJCÓW: Zajazd Zazamcze zł SANOK: Jadło Karpackie zł

American/Italian Map E5 Classic Polish Map D5 Regional Map F6
ul. Sienkiewicza 25, 25-007 Ojców 1b, 32-047 Rynek 12, 38-100
Tel 41 343 23 39 Tel 12 389 20 83 Tel 13 464 67 00
Situated less than five minutes A chalet-style building with Decked out in wooden benches
from the main square, this beautifully tended gardens, this and sheepskins, this folksy
restaurant styled like an restaurant serves an impressive restaurant offers Carpathian treats
American house from the 1960s, choice of pork and poultry, plus such as hreczanyki (pork-and-
serves steaks and burgers, as well locally caught trout. buckwheat patties) and excellent
as pizzas and pasta dishes. beer from nearby Leżajsk.
KUDOWA ZDRÓJ: Czeska DK Choice SIENIAWA: Hotel Pałac zł zł zł

Restauracja Zdrojowa zł PRZEMYŚL: Café Fiore zł Gourmet Map F5
Central European Map B5 International Map F6 ul. Kościuszki 32, 37-530
Słoneczna 1, 57-350 ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 17b, Tel 16 649 17 00
Tel 74 866 21 33 37-700 The Baroque former home of
This large, popular restaurant Tel 16 675 12 22 the Sieniawski family houses
complete with billiard room Przemyśl may not be everybody’s a small hotel and an elegant
serves meat-and-dumplings idea of a culinary capital, but the restaurant serving classic
staples, plus a range of grilled pastries, cakes and ice creams European fare, superb desserts
meats. Wash them down with on offer at the acclaimed Café and a big choice of wines.
any of the Czech beers on offer. Fiore rank with anything that
Warsaw, Krakow or even Vienna SUCHA BESKIDZKA:
LWÓWEK ŚLĄSKI: have to offer. The fruit-and- Karczma Rzym zł zł
Pod Czarnym Krukiem zł meringue pies are particularly Classic Polish Map D6
Classic Polish Map B4 recommended. The pleasant Rynek 1, 34-200
ul. Słowackiego 1, 59-600 interior is decorated with Tel 33 874 27 97
Tel 75 782 42 66 Italian-themed murals, and All the hearty Polish dishes
Traditional standards, such as duck there’s a large outdoor terrace available at this traditional inn
breast and roast pork knuckle, are at the back. have devilish names – a reference
served at this restaurant beside to the legend of Pan Twardowski,
the picturesque main square. who allegedly crossed the devil
PSZCZYNA: Frykówka zł zł at Karczma Rzym.
NOWY SĄCZ: Ratuszowa zł Classic Polish/Italian Map D5
Classic Polish Map E6 ul. Rynek 3, 43-200 ŚWIDNICA: Rynek 43 zł zł
Rynek 1, 33-300 Tel 32 449 00 20 Central European Map B5
Tel 18 443 56 15 Housed inside an 18th-century Rynek 43, 58-100
Located in the basement of the Baroque tenement building, Tel 74 856 84 19 Closed Wed
town hall, Ratuszowa serves a Frykówka has a menu that Polish, Czech and German
broad range of Polish meat dishes combines traditional Polish fare, traditions meet in this Silesian
and a famously creative selection local Silesian dishes and a restaurant with a pretty courtyard.
of pierogi, including buckwheat-, number of Italian options. It has On the menu are savoury
lamb- and lentil-stuffed varieties. an extensive wine list. strüdels, goulash and schnitzels.
NOWY SĄCZ: Kupiecka zł zł RĄBKA ZDRÓJ: Siwy Dym zł TARNÓW:

Classic Polish Map E6 Regional Map D6 Tatrzanska-Kudelski zł
ul. Jana Długosza 3, 33-300 ul. Kilińskiego, 34-700 Central European Map E5
Tel 18 442 08 31 Tel 18 267 66 74 ul Krakowska 1, 33-100
Refined service and quality A highland-style timber lodge Tel 14 622 46 36
cuisine, including an excellent decorated with wooden tables Patrolled by white-shirted waiting
golonka (roast knuckle of pork) and animal hides, Siwy Dym staff and stuffed full of plants, this
with honey, a superb roast duck serves local roast lamb dishes genteel café-restaurant has an
with apples, and many other and a selection of hearty grilled international menu, well-priced
national classics. pork and beef dishes. specials and delicious apple pie.
TARNÓW: Pasaż zł zł
Classic Polish Map E5
pl. Kazimierza Wielkiego 2, 33-100
Tel 14 627 82 78
Plain from the outside but quite
elegant within, Pasaż serves
classic Polish food, including
inexpensive daily specials.
WROCŁAW: Machina Organika zł

Vegan Map C4
Ruska 19, 50-101
Tel 733 537 210
Timber ceilings, jellyfish-shaped
lampshades and exotic tiling
make this a fun place to enjoy
vegan soups and mains, plus a
Pierogi, traditionally stuffed with sauerkraut, ground meat, pototoes, cheese or fruit range of fruit cocktails.
WROCŁAW: Pierogarnia WROCŁAW: WROCŁAW: Splendido zł zł zł

Stary Młyn zł Le Bistrot Parisien zł zł zł Gourmet Map C4
Classic Polish Map C4 French Map C4 Świdnicka 53, 50-030
Rynek 26, 50-101 ul. Nożownicza 1d, 50-119 Tel 71 344 77 77
Tel 71 344 14 15 Tel 71 341 05 65 Lamb, duck, seafood and grilled
This small, rustic-styled room Classic French cuisine, including steaks are among the highlights
is the place to visit for a wide a range of outstanding seafood, of Splendido’s Mediterranean
range of pierogi, either boiled is served in a dining room where and Central European menu.
in traditional style, baked in the walls are covered in clippings Diners savour the food in
the oven or deep-fried, and and photographs taken from the interiors with exposed beams,
stuffed with a range of meat French press. flowers and lampshades.
or vegetarian fillings.
WROCŁAW: Mosaiq zł zł zł ZAKOPANE: Bąkowo
WROCŁAW: Akropol International Map C4 Zohylina Niżnio zł zł
na Solnym zł zł św. Mikołaja 12, 50-001 Regional Map D6
Greek Map C4 Tel 530 306 605 ul. Piłsudskiego 6, 34-500
plac Solny 18/19, 50-063 The French/Polish/Italian fare Tel 18 206 62 16
Tel 511 421 440 here – steaks, seafood, pasta Housed in an ornate timber
A smart, contemporary Greek dishes – elegantly straddles the building in the centre of town,
restaurant that serves grilled line between creativity and this folksy restaurant serves such
meats, lamb roasts and lots of tradition. There is a long list of regional classics as highland
Aegean seafood – all prepared international wines. lamb, smoked cheeses and
with style and imagination. Be fresh trout. Dinner is frequently
sure to leave some room for the WROCŁAW: Sakana zł zł zł accompanied by live music.
baklava dessert. Japanese Map C4
ul. Odrzańska 17/1a, 50-113 ZAKOPANE: Czarny Staw zł zł
WROCŁAW: Karczma Tel 71 344 61 05 Regional Map D6
Lwowska zł zł Sushi and other dishes are skillfully ul. Krupówki 2, 34-500
Central European Map C4 prepared here, and then sent Tel 18 201 38 56
Rynek 4, 50-106 floating on paper boats around a Some of the menu highlights at
Tel 71 343 98 87 circular bar to be consumed by a this popular, timber-beamed
Themed around the city of young and fashionable crowd. restaurant are the sizzling grilled
L’viv in western Ukraine, meats and sausages, the fresh
and warmly decorated with mountain trout and a renowned
wood panelling and sepia DK Choice fish soup.
photographs, this restaurant WROCŁAW: Spiż zł zł zł
serves borscht, pork with Brewery Restaurant Map C4 ZAKOPANE:
cabbage and other dishes from Rynek-Ratusz 2, 50-106 Tuberoza zł zł
the eastern frontier. Tel 71 344 72 25 Classic Polish Map D6
Set in a pair of atmospheric and ul. Piłsudskiego 31, 34-500
WROCŁAW: Art evocatively decorated rooms Tel 18 201 37 38 Closed Wed
Restauracja zł zł zł right beneath the town hall, Spiż The bohemian but elegant
Central European Map C4 has a superb range of home- atmosphere of Zakopane in
ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, 50-110 brewed beers. On the menu is the 1930s is conjured up in this
Tel 71 787 71 02 quality Polish fare ranging from retro-styled restaurant with a
Stylish meals are served in steak to Silesian dumplings, lavish menu of quality Polish
the vaulted brick cellar restaurant game goulash and freshwater and international food, including
of the Art Hotel. The menu offers fish. Choose between the beer local lamb and game.
a contemporary take on the hall, overlooked by huge
traditional schnitzel, roast meat copper vats, or the more formal ZAKOPANE:
and poultry repertoire, using wood-panelled dining room. U Wnuka zł zł
regional produce. Regional Map D6
ul. Kościeliska 8, 34-500
Tel 18 206 41 67
Excellent highland dishes –
including kwaśnica (sour soup)
and roast lamb with cabbage –
are served in a 150-year-old
timber house. There is live music
at weekends.
ZAKOPANE:
Mała Szwajcaria zł zł zł
Classic Polish/Swiss Map D6
ul. Zamoyskiego 11, 34-500
Tel 18 201 20 76
This restaurant offers an
intriguing combination of
Polish and Swiss recipes, with
local pork and freshwater fish
vying for attention with the
fondues. Everything is expertly
Le Bistrot Parisien, in Wrocław, re-creating a warm Parisian ambience prepared and stylishly delivered.
Fellini zł zł zł
Italian Map D1
Targ Rybny 6, 80-890
Tel 888 010 203
This smart, cosy Italian restaurant
in a riverside area serves home-
made pasta with imaginative
sauces, veal rolled with
prosciutto, and some stand-
out fish dishes.
Metamorfoza zł zł zł
Contemporary Polish Map D1
ul. Szeroka 22/23, 80-835
Tel 58 320 30 30 Closed Mon
Featuring a modern, minimalist
decor, this centrally located
restaurant offers an exquisitely
The lavish decor at Pod Łososiem, Gdańsk prepared fusion of local
ingredients and Mediterranean
spread of good-value traditional cuisine, plus a classic French
Gdańsk snacks, such as marinated approach to the details.
herring, gzik (cottage cheese,
A la Française zł onion and sour cream), as well Pod Łososiem zł zł zł
French Map D1 as steak tartare. Gourmet Map D1
ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, 80-750 ul. Szeroka 52/54, 80-835
Tel 58 765 11 12 Tawerna Mestwin zł Tel 58 301 76 52
This two-storey café-restaurant Classic Polish/Regional Map D1 This opulent restaurant with
with a homely feel offers soups, ul. Straganiarska 20/23, 80-837 its celebrity-spattered guest
baguette sandwiches and Tel 606 745 252 list serves classic fine-feasting
delicious sweet and savoury Crammed with local arts and dishes, including plenty of
pancakes. There are also some crafts, this timeless, homely seafood and game. Grilled
hard-to-resist pastries and eclairs. restaurant is a virtual museum. salmon is the house speciality.
On the menu is traditional
Bar Neptun zł Kashubian cuisine, which Targ Rybny zł zł zł
Classic Polish Map D1 amounts to tasty offerings Seafood Map D1
ul. Długa 33/34, 80-827 of hunks of meat. Welcoming, Targ Rybny 6c, 80-838
Tel 58 301 49 88 friendly service. Tel 58 320 90 11
This traditional bar mleczny, or Boasting an ideal location right
canteen restaurant, serves filling, Kresowa zł zł beside the fish market, this bright
tasty portions of pork, fish, bean Classic Polish Map D1 bistro-style restaurant elevates
stew and potato pancakes in ul. Ogarna 12, 80-826 local fish cuisine to an art form.
sparse but smart surroundings. Tel 58 301 66 53 Highlights include the salmon-
Located near the historic stuffed pierogi and the sea bass
Nowa Pierogova zł shipyard, this excellent baked with artichokes.
Classic Polish Map D1 restaurant borrows liberally
ul. Szafarnia 6 from the culinary traditions
Tel 516 414 200 of the Polish-Lithuanian and
Situated on the river, opposite Polish-Ukrainian borderlands, Pomerania and
the Old Town, this good-value, with waiting staff dressed in Northeastern
cheerful pierogi joint offers traditional Eastern Polish attire.
traditional meat- and cheese- Poland
filled options, as well as some AUGUSTÓW: Kaktusik zł zł
own-recipe variations featuring DK Choice Seafood Map F2
seafood and exotic spices. Kubicki zł zł ul. 29. Listopada 2, 16-300
Classic Polish Map D1 Tel 697 720 033
Pierogarnia u Dzika zł ul. Wartka 5, 80-841 Enjoy fine dining – freshwater
Classic Polish Map D1 Tel 58 301 00 50 fish, home-made pierogi and
ul. Piwna 59/60, 80-831 Founded in 1919, this legendary roast poultry dishes – in this
Tel 58 305 26 76 restaurant remains in the hands timber house surrounded by a
Boar pelts and animal heads add of the same family that founded park. There is also a highly
to the atmosphere at this fast- it. The interior is full of vintage respectable wine list.
food restaurant serving a vast furniture, while the high-quality
selection of pierogi with all sorts food reflects the traditions of BIAŁOWIEŻA: Żubrówka zł zł zł
of fillings, ranging from meat to Poland’s Baltic cities, with Gourmet Map G3
cabbage and fresh fruit. herring, halibut and sole ul. O. Gabiec 6, 16-303
balancing out a menu strong Tel 601 800 815
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa zł in meaty specialities like This hotel restaurant near the
Classic Polish Map D1 golonka (roast pork knuckle) or entrance to the national park
ul. Długi Targ 35/38, 80-830 wild boar. Traditional home- offers a superb selection of
Tel 530 766 945 made desserts include sernik local game dishes flavoured
Open 24 hours, this trendy bar (Polish cheesecake). with forest fruits, and a handful
serves vodka shots, beer and a of freshwater fish options.
BIAŁYSTOK: Cristal zł zł zł
International Map F2
ul. Lipowa 3, 15-424
Tel 85 749 61 59
This popular city-centre eaterie
is famous for its well-presented
Polish classics, which are served
alongside some top-quality
French and Mediterranean fare.
BOROWO: Checz Rybacka zł

Seafood Map D1
ul. Jeziorna 2, 83-332
Tel 58 685 34 04
Set in a modern house in the Adobe walls, cacti and Mexican decor at Pueblo, in Gdynia
countryside, this ranks among
the best fish restaurants in the castle walls. It specializes in MIELNO: Meduza zł zł
Poland, with both Baltic sea Polish staples and grilled meats. European Map B1
and freshwater fish served in a There is a refreshing garden for ul. Nadbrzeżna 2, 76-032
variety of ingenious ways. summer dining. Tel 94 348 08 90
The menu at this beachside
BYTÓW: Zamek zł zł dining room on the main
Central European Map C1 DK Choice promenade delivers classic
ul. Zamkowa 2, 77-100 KOŁOBRZEG: Rewiński zł French and Mediterranean
Tel 59 822 20 94 Seafood Map B1 cuisine, including an assortment
Enjoy hearty meat and goulash Jana Szymańskiego 6 of pasta options and some
dishes in awesome surroundings. Tel 94 354 75 66 superbly fresh and beautifully
Zamek is located inside a 14th- People queue up to eat in this cooked seafood.
century castle, but there is also glass-fronted fast-food pavilion
an attractive garden for alfresco near the Kołobrzeg lighthouse, MIKOŁAJKI: Spiżarnia zł zł
dining in summer. such is its status in the fish-and- International/Seafood Map E2
chips world. Baltic fish such as Plac Handlowy 14, 11-730
GDYNIA: Pueblo zł zł turbot, halibut and sole is either Tel 87 421 52 18
Mexican Map D1 simply fried or prepared in Decked out in a pleasant
al. Abrahama 56, 80-387 batter. You can also opt for country-farmhouse style, this
Tel 58 621 60 07 platters of marinated herring, is a popular restaurant that
Pueblo is one of the few stuffed trout or grilled salmon. serves an impressive array
authentic Mexican restaurants in The fish soup is an ideal warm of quality fish, Italian pasta
northern Poland. Satisfyingly spicy snack, and the seafront location dishes, and tartare made from
dishes are served in a themed is simply superb. beef or smoked salmon.
interior filled with ethnic textiles.
OLSZTYN:
HEL: Maszoperia zł KRUTYŃ: Krutynianka zł zł Karczma Jana zł zł
Seafood Map D1 Seafood Map E2 Classic Polish Map E2
ul. Wiejska 110, 84-150 Krutyń 34, 11-710 Hugona Kołłątaja 11, 10-034
Tel 58 675 02 97 Tel 89 742 12 19 Tel 89 522 29 46
Primarily a fish bar serving Located beside a river, this rural This delightful restaurant
everything from halibut to restaurant serves some of the with timber beams and a
salmon, this restaurant is housed best fresh fish in the region. It folk-themed, chalet vibe
in a low-ceilinged fisherman’s also excels in long-forgotten rural cooks up a satisfying selection
cottage stuffed with vintage recipes such as nettle soup. of pork and poultry, plus baked
furnishings and bric-a-brac. apples with mead for dessert.
MALBORK: Gothic zł zł
IŁAWA: Stary Tartak zł zł International Map D1
Classic Polish Map D2 ul. Starościńska 1, 80-200 DK Choice
ul. Biskupska 5, 14-200 Tel 55 647 08 89 OLSZTYN: Przystań zł zł zł
Tel 603 522 588 Housed in the cellar of the Seafood/Asian Map E2
In a beautiful setting beside a Teutonic Castle, Gothic serves ul. Żeglarska 3, 10-160
lake and overlooking an old part an exciting combination of Tel 89 523 77 79
of Iława, Stary Tartak specializes international and Polish cuisines Boasting a beautiful location
in traditional cuisine such as with elements of traditional beside the yachting marina
handmade pierogi and juicy medieval cooking thrown in for on Lake Krzywe, just outside
tenderloins grilled with herbs. good measure. the city centre, this restaurant
In the summer, the chef cooks specializes in regional
fish from Lake Jeziorak. MIĘDZYZDROJE: Marina zł zł freshwater fish, cooked in a
Classic Polish Map A1 variety of ways – pan-fried pure
KĘTRZYN: Zajazd pod Gryfa Pomorskiego 1, 72-500 and simple, or served with an
Zamkiem zł zł Tel 91 328 04 49 imaginative range of sauces
Classical Polish/Grill Map E1 This small and homely hotel or spices. Local mushrooms
ul. Struga 3a, 11-400 restaurant serves pork, poultry and vegetarian choices also
Tel 89 752 31 17 roasts and pan-fried freshwater feature on a menu that
This atmospheric and ornately fish, with delicious apple pie stretches all the way to sushi.
decorated restaurant is set beside among the desserts.
OSTRÓDA: Młyn serves pork-and-sauerkraut SZCZECIN: Bombay zł zł

pod Mariaszkem zł zł staples and Baltic fish (either Indian Map A2
Classic Polish Map E2 fried or baked), plus a tempting ul. Partyzantów 1, 70-222
Młyn Idzbarski 2, 14-100 menu of alcoholic drinks. Tel 91 812 11 71
Tel 89 646 03 55 This refined restaurant serves a
Just outside Ostróda, on the main SOPOT: Cyrano & Roxane zł zł zł broad and satisfying range of
road to Warsaw, this renovated French Map D1 subcontinental fare, including
19th-century mill offers a superb Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, plenty of vegetarian dishes and a
selection of pierogi, as well as 81-704 range of tasty naans.
home-baked bread and cakes. Tel 660 759 594
An informal, bistro-style TORUŃ: Oberża zł
RYN: Karczma u Wallenroda zł restaurant, Cyrano & Roxane has Classic Polish Map D2
Classic Polish Map E2 a well-chosen menu of French Rabiańska 9, 87-100
pl. Wolności 3a, 11-520 favourites, ranging from Tel 56 622 00 22
Tel 87 421 86 75 Provençal fish soup through Wooden beams and low-key light-
A plain brick building with a confit of duck and assorted ing set the tone in this great-value
local-pub atmosphere complete French sausages to crème brûlée. restaurant where you order at the
with billiard table, this rural inn counter. If offers the best of Polish
serves grilled meats, soups and SOPOT: Villa Baltica zł zł zł home cooking, such as pierogi and
potato-pancake staples. International Map D1 stuffed cabbage leaves.
ul. Emilii Plater 1, 81-777
SASINO: Ewa Zaprasza zł zł Tel 58 555 28 00 TORUŃ: Pierogarnia
European Map C1 Located right on the beach, in Stary Toruń zł
ul. Morska 49, 84-210 the hotel of the same name, this Classic Polish Map D2
Tel 58 676 33 39 Closed Dec outstanding restaurant serves Most Pauliński 2/10, 87-100
Enjoying a rustic setting in a classic, predominantly Tel 56 621 10 46
a village east of Łeba, Ewa European mix of steaks, roast Rustic knick-knacks decorate this
Zaprasza serves some of lamb, game and seafood. good-value eatery serving pierogi
the most exciting food in this stuffed with a variety of fillings,
part of Poland, with an eclectic, SUWAŁKI: Karczma Polska zł including huge oven-baked ones
inspired approach to locally Classic Polish Map F1 filled with beef and plums.
sourced meat, fowl and fish. Tadeusza Kościuszki 101a, 16-400
Tel 87 566 48 60 TORUŃ: 1231 zł zł
SOPOT: Bar Przystań zł An interior full of wood Classic Polish/
Seafood Map D1 panelling and folk crafts Mediterranean Map D2
al. Wojska Polskiego 11, 81-769 provides the ideal ambience in Przedzamcze 6, 87-100
Tel 58 550 02 41 which to feast on roast pork Tel 56 619 09 17
Occupying a conservatory-style knuckle, kartacze (dumplings Come here for a selection of fine
dining room right on the beach, stuffed with meat) and other Polish and Italian fare – good
Bar Przystań is the place for fish. hearty Polish delights. steaks and an excellent range of
On the menu are halibut, sole freshwater and Mediterranean
and a host of other options, either SZCZECIN: Pierogarnia fish, as well as fine wines.
pan-fried or cooked in batter. Kaszubska zł
Classic Polish Map A2 TORUŃ: Dom Sushi zł zł
SOPOT: Image zł zł plac Zgody 1, 70-472 Japanese Map D2
International Map D1 Tel 91 485 18 10 Closed Sun Franciszkańska 8, 87-100
ul. Grunwaldzka 8/10, 81-759 This sparsely furnished but Tel 56 652 22 88
Tel 58 550 75 76 smart fast-food joint serves Sushi and sashimi, as well as
A tempting combination of boiled, deep-fried or baked soups, main dishes and bento
Mediterranean and Polish dishes, pierogi with a range of fillings. boxes are offered in this stylish
including some outstanding fish, Their own-recipe borscht is eatery with paper lanterns and a
is served in an eccentrically also worth trying. central kitchen-bar.
decorated interior that is in
itself a mish-mash of styles.
SOPOT: Rucola zł zł
International Map D1
Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53,
81-777
Tel 58 555 53 55
Occupying the basement of the
Sopot Museum, Rucola serves
sophisticated global fusion food,
with an emphasis on Far Eastern
and Mediterranean flavours.
SOPOT: Tropikalna Wyspa zł zł

International Map D1
Sopot beach; end of ul. Traugutta,
81-769
Tel 58 692 88 33
Located right on the beach, this
summer-season café-restaurant The front patio at Cyrano & Roxane, in Sopot
SHOPPING IN POLAND
Poland is known first and foremost for its are produced by the highlanders of Zakopane
handicraft goods. Polish silver and amber and its environs. CDs of Polish classical and
jewellery are especially renowned, but contemporary music are available all over the
hand-embroidered tablecloths, cut glass country. Large-format, lavishly illustrated
from Silesia, porcelain from Ćmielów and books of the Polish landscape and on art,
ceramics from Bolesławiec are also very some of which are published in English,
popular. Thick, hand-knitted woollen French or German, are other tempting
sweaters and ornamented leather slippers souvenirs of a visit to Poland.
and Złote Tarasy. Large Christmas. Normal Sunday

shopping centres such opening times are restricted
as Reduta and Promenada to a few food shops and major
are located away from the shopping centres, although
main tourist areas, while in summer souvenir shops
Klif is smaller and close to in popular tourist resorts
the centre. Browsing for open as well.
bargains is an attraction of On public holidays all
large markets, for example shops are closed, with the
those held in Hale Mirowskie, exception of some pharmacies
or the Jarmark Saski bazaar in and food shops (those that
the east of Warsaw. are open at night). As a last
resort, a 24-hour petrol station
may fulfil any particularly
Opening Hours pressing needs.
Shops are open from 10am to
Amber jewellery and other goods 6pm Monday to Friday and, in
displayed in a shop window the main, from 10am to 2pm on Paying
Saturdays. In the larger cities, Although cash (in złote, of
Where to Shop shops usually close at 7pm, course) is always welcomed
Although there are retail with most of the department by Polish traders of all kinds,
shops everywhere, it often stores staying open for an credit cards are nonetheless
makes more sense to purchase extra hour and closing at 8pm. accepted in most shops in the
goods from factory and In the run-up to Christmas, big cities (this should be
established licensed shops. the majority of shops are indicated by stickers on the
The most competitively open much longer hours, door – if not, ask before
priced handicraft goods can and shopping centres open making a purchase). However,
be bought direct from the on the last Sunday before small shops sometimes prefer
manufacturers in the markets. to give a small
Duty-free goods are also discount for payment
available at Warsaw airport. in cash rather than
take a card, so there
may be a little
Shopping in Warsaw margin for haggling.
Most shops are located in the Polish shops do not
city centre. There are many usually accept
elegant boutiques in the Old travellers’ cheques,
Town, along Ulica Krakowskie but it is perfectly
Przedmieście and Ulica Nowy easy to change them
Świat. There are many clothes in banks (see pp340–
shops in Ulica Chmielna, Aleje 41). There is VAT on
Jerozolimskie and Ulica the price of Polish
Marszałkowska. If you are goods, but a range
interested in antiques visit of goods is tax-free
the Sunday morning market to foreign nationals,
in the Koło district on the and on such goods
western side of Warsaw. (that have a minimum
Popular department stores value of 200 złoty)
are Galeria Centrum, Galeria a VAT refund can
Mokotów, Arkadia, Wola Park Klif, one of Warsaw’s main shopping centres be obtained.
SHOPPING IN POLAND 321
shops, located chiefly in the

Old City, particularly in Ulica
Mariacka and Ulica Długie
Pobrzeże – for example in
Bursztynowa Komnata, the
Nord Amber Gallery and the
Wydra Gallery. The town of
Mikołajki in the Great Mazurian
Lakes region also offers a wide
choice of amber artifacts.
Modern Art
An antiques market in Krakow’s Main Market Square Some of the greatest attractions
for tourists in Poland are
Books and Records the market in Zakopane; contemporary paintings, prints
Well-stocked bookshops can be embroidered tablecloths are and posters, which are available
found in most towns and cities. on sale at stalls in Święta at very reasonable prices in
The EMPiK chain of bookshops, Lipka and Kashubian galleries. Art galleries also sell
with outlets in all big cities, ceramics in pottery original glass, ceramics and
offers the widest choice, and workshops in Chmielno. designer jewellery. Silver, in the
not only of books; there are form of sophisticated jewellery
music sections as well. Guide- and various other artifacts, is
books in foreign languages and relatively cheap.
glossy coffee-table books Painting on glass also has a
aimed at the tourist market strong tradition in Poland, and
are available from tourist small pieces, with traditional or
information centres. Many modern designs, are offered for
second-hand bookshops, to be sale in many galleries around
found in the old parts of big the country.
cities, often stock an interesting A shop showroom with ceramics and In Wrocław, the former meat
selection of old books. other Polish handicraft goods market in Kiełbaśnicza has
been taken over by artists. In
Krakow, there are many
Amber Goods galleries in the historic city
Amber is a fossilized tree resin centre – for example, Kocioł
that ranges in colour from cream Artystyczny. In Warsaw, there is
through translucent yellow and Zapiecek and Art Gallery ZPAP
orange to rich brown. Most (Union of Polish Artists and
Polish amber comes from the Designers). There are small
Gulf of Gdańsk, and Polish private galleries in many towns,
Highlanders’ sweaters and other local amber goods are largely made even the smaller ones, and
goods at a Zakopane market in Gdańsk and its environs. prices there are, as one might
Amber jewellery is extremely expect, usually lower than in
popular in Poland. It is sold at a Warsaw. All in all, the Polish arts
Handicrafts range of outlets, but to avoid the and crafts scene is a thriving
Traditional handicraft products risk of buying a fake it is best to one, providing the visitor with
such as hand-woven tapestries, go to an established shop. In a wide range of work at
embroidered tablecloths and Gdańsk there are several such attractive prices.
doilies, leather goods,
decorative cut-outs, ceramics
and even furniture are sold in
Cepelia shops, which are to be
found in all big cities. In Krakow,
most of these shops are located
in the Sukiennice in Main
Market Square. In Gdańsk, the
retail outlet Sklep Kaszubski
specializes in artifacts made
by folk artists from Kashubia.
Local markets are also worth
visiting. For example, one of
the best places to buy
highlanders’ sweaters is at Baskets for sale at the market in Sokółka
Designer glassware is also in a bewildering range of

popular and in great demand. varieties. The most popular
The most beautiful cut glass brands are Premium and
comes from Silesia, where Chopin, the latter sold in
glass production dates back elegant, slender bottles
to the 14th century. The Julia decorated with a picture
glass factory in Szklarska of the famous composer.
Poręba, which was established Another popular spirit is
in 1841 as Josephinenhütte, żubrówka, a vodka with a
is also renowned. distinctive, slightly herbal
flavour; it is obtained from
hierchloe grass, which grows
Clothes and Accessories only in the Białowieska Forest.
Poland has never been Another alcoholic drink is
The modern interior of Warsaw’s Złote synonymous with high-quality mead. Made with honey
Tarasy shopping centre clothing, but the quality of according to traditional
clothes made in the country recipes, it is the perfect
Antiques has greatly improved, and accompaniment to desserts.
In most towns throughout many factories can now Many distilleries have their
Poland, antiques and compete with Western European own retail outlets, where
collectables are sold in Desa clothing manufacturers. Shirts private buyers can taste the
shops. Second-hand goods, from Wólczanka, suits from different specialities on offer.
however, are sold in privately Bytom and coats from Próchnik One such establishment is
run shops that are to be found are in demand. They are Polmos, in Krakow.
in both large and small towns available in department stores Polish sweets are of a high
and also in tourist spots. Visitors and from shops in big cities. quality. Chocolates made by
should bear in mind that there Many Polish designers also the Warsaw firm Wedel and
are special provisions have their own boutiques, the Krakow firm Wawel are
pertaining to the export of which stock unique collections particularly esteemed.
objects made before 1945; of suits and dresses. For a tasty present from
under Polish customs Poland is well known for its Poland you might choose, for
regulations, such objects may high-quality leather goods, instance, a jar of dried ceps
not be exported, unless a such as bags, belts and wallets. (porcini mushrooms, honey,
special permit is obtained. Jędrzej Wittchen’s stores and smoked eel or dried sausage).
the Ochnik Brothers have a The best places to buy such
distinguished presence in items are bazaars and markets.
Pottery and Porcelain all major shopping centres There are good markets in
Poland has a long tradition of in Poland. Warsaw in Hala Mirowska near
porcelain manufacture, and Plac Mirowski, in Krakow in
there are a few factories that Stary Kleparz, in Poznań in Plac
still produce porcelain in both Food and Drink Wielkopolski, and in the market
traditional and modern designs. Polish liquor is internationally halls of Wrocław and Gdańsk.
The most renowned type is renowned, especially the pure If travelling to the UK, avoid
Ćmielów porcelain, which is vodkas, which – much like fish or meat products as they
available all over Poland. Just Scotch whisky – are available are subject to an import ban.
as attractive is the porcelain
produced by the factory in
Wałbrzych, which has its own
retail shop situated in Książ
Castle (see p191). Popular also
are traditional ceramics such
as those made in Bolesławiec,
especially the white and
navy-blue crockery decorated
with spots, circles and small
stylized flowers.
Glass and Crystal

High-quality glass, in both
modern and traditional
designs, is another Polish
speciality, as is traditional
cut glass, known as crystal. Wedel, one of Warsaw’s smartest sweet shops
DIRECTORY
Department EMPiK Megastore Galeria Piekary Galeria Sztuki
Stores and Warsaw, Poznań, ul. Święty Marcin Współczesnej Parter
Shopping Centres ul. Nowy Świat 15/17. 80/82. Tel 61 811 35 55. Łódź,
Tel 22 451 04 81. ul. Piotrkowska 82.
Arkadia Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Galeria Pod Podłogą Tel 42 633 25 33.
Warsaw, ul. Jana Grodzkie 8. Lublin, ul. Krakowskie
Koneser
Pawła II 82. Tel 22 451 04 66. Przedmieście 62.
Lublin,
Tel 22 323 67 67. Tel 81 532 68 57.
EMPiK Salon ul. Lubartowska 3.
Blue City Megastore “Junior” Galeria Sztuki Tel 81 534 41 60.
Warsaw, Warsaw, Współczesnej Salon Dzieł Sztuki i
al. Jerozolimskie 179. ul. Marszałkowska Wałbrzych, Zamek Książ, Antyków “Paga”
Tel 22 824 45 55. 116/122. ul. Piastów Śląskich 1. Kielce,
Tel 22 451 04 90. Łódź, ul. Piotrkowska 113.
Dom Towarowy ul. Piotrkowska 2.
Bracia Jabłkowscy Pod Globusem Tel 42 637 17 43. Tel 41 368 13 14.
Warsaw, ul. Bracka 25. Krakow, ul. Długa 1. Galeria Top-Art Ceramics and
Tel 22 826 36 44. Tel 12 422 17 39.
Toruń, ul. Kopernika 21. Glass
Galeria Centrum Tel 56 621 08 46.
Handicrafts
Warsaw, ul. Krosno
Marszałkowska 104.
Galeria ZPAP Krosno,
Cepelia
Tel 22 551 45 17. Krakow, Łobzowska 3. ul. Tysiąclecia 13.
Gdańsk, ul. Długa 47/49.
Tel 12 632 46 22. Tel 13 432 87 55.
Galeria Tel 58 301 27 08.
∑ cepelia.pl Kocioł Artystyczny Salon Czasu
Dominikańska
Wrocław, Bydgoszcz, ul. Krakow, ul. Sławkowska Przemyśl,
pl. Dominikański 3. Gdańska 17. 14, 1st Floor. ul. Franciszkańska 31.
Tel 52 322 17 28. Tel 12 429 17 97. Tel 16 678 53 59.
Tel 71 344 95 10.
Częstochowa, ul. NMP 64.
Galeria Krakowska Tel 34 324 43 48. Wydra Gallery Clothes
Krakow, ul. Pawia 5. Warsaw, Marszałkowska Gdańsk,
Tel 12 428 99 00. 99/101. ul. Mariacka 45 & 49. Elux
Tel 22 628 77 57. Tel 58 301 77 79. Warsaw,
Galeria Mokotów
Krakow, Sukiennice. al. Solidarności 92.
Warsaw, ul. Wołoska 12. Yam
Tel 12 422 55 04. Tel 22 636 90 65.
Tel 22 541 41 41. Zakopane,
Olsztyn, ul. Prosta 1/2. Vistula
Klif Tel 89 527 25 97. ul. Krupówki 63.
Tel 18 206 69 83. Warsaw,
Warsaw, Szczecin, al. Jana Pawła II 82.
ul. Okopowa 58/72. plac Żołnierza 19. Zapiecek
Tel 22 531 45 00. Tel 91 434 57 87. Warsaw, ul. Zapiecek 1. Confectionery
Wrocław, Tel 22 831 99 18.
Promenada
ul. Wita Stwosza 55. E. Wedel
Warsaw,
Tel 71 780 78 77. Warsaw, ul. Szpitalna 8.
ul. Ostrobramska 75c. Antiques
Tel 22 827 29 16.
Tel 22 611 39 52.
Amber Goods Antyki Warsaw, ul. Freta 17.
Reduta Katowice, ul. Mariacka 5. Tel 22 636 04 76.
Warsaw, Bursztynowa Wrocław, ul. Rynek 59.
Komnata Tel 32 253 99 22.
al. Jerozolimskie 148. ∑ desakatowice.com
Tel 71 346 06 92.
Tel 22 823 94 00. Gdańsk, ul. Długie
Pobrzeże 1. Wawel
Antykwariat Daes
Stary Browar Tel 58 346 27 17. Krakow,
Wrocław,
Poznań, ul. Półwiejska 42. Rynek Główny 33.
Nord Amber Gallery pl. Kościuszki 15.
Tel 61 667 14 00. Tel 12 423 12 47.
Gdańsk, Tel 71 343 72 80. Łódź, ul. A. Struga 5.
Wola Park ul. Mariacka 44/45. Tel 42 632 93 18.
Desa
Warsaw, ul. Tel 58 305 55 50. Poznań,
Warsaw,
Górczewska 124. ul. Wrocławska 21.
Tel 22 533 40 00. Modern Art ul. Nowy Świat 48.
Tel 22 826 44 66. Tel 61 853 03 67.
Złote Tarasy Art Gallery ZPAP Warsaw, Rynek Starego
Warsaw, ul. Złota 59. Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie Miasta 4/6.
Tel 22 222 22 00. Przedmieście 17. Tel 22 831 16 81.
Tel 22 828 51 70. Bydgoszcz, ul.
Books
Galeria Miejska Gdańska 20.
EMPiK Wrocław, ul. Tel 52 339 30 50.
Krakow, ul. Floriańska 14. Kiełbaśnicza 28. ∑ galeriabwa.
Tel 22 451 40 20. Tel 71 344 67 20. bydgoszcz.pl
What to Buy in Poland

The range of folk art and handicrafts in Poland is truly
impressive. Almost every region has its own speciality.
The production of Christmas tree ornaments, painted Easter
eggs and Christmas crib figures is a distinctive folk industry.
The work of Polish artists, in the form of paintings, prints,
posters and sculpture, is also highly esteemed and can be
found in commercial galleries. Designer jewellery, another
high-profile Polish craft, and amber products, which are
reasonably priced, are also attractive. Vodka, the national
drink, is available in various flavours. Dolls in Traditional Costume
Small dolls dressed in the
traditional costume of the Krakow
or Zakopane region make ideal
Highlanders’ Products gifts or souvenirs.
The Podhale region is famous for its
original folk products. The hand-knitted
socks and sweaters and the traditional
leather kierpce (soft shoes with pointed Oscypek, sheep’s milk cheese
toes) are very popular.
Woollen socks Patterned leather kierpce Embroidered serdak
Hand-carved Christmas Cribs

Christmas crib Christmas cribs are extremely
popular, especially in
southern Poland. The finest
are hand-carved in wood. As
well as a whole crib, it is
possible to purchase Hand-painted Christmas
individual figures. decoration
Easter Decorations
Easter eggs and lambs are essential on the Easter table. Not only
are the eggs painted, but patterns are also created by scratching
into the shell and applying paper and ribbons.
Wooden angel
Christmas Decorations
Traditional Polish Christmas
decorations range from
painted glass balls to
ornaments made of
Jug made out of a wood, straw, paper or
Sugar lamb Decorated eggs hollow eggshell coloured ribbons.
Ginger Cake Folk Art

Ginger cake, a
traditional delicacy Folk art is deeply rooted in Polish tradition. It
from Toruń, is takes many forms – from painting, carving
made using old and embroidery to other skilled handicrafts.
moulds and is Painting on glass is a particularly vibrant
sometimes aspect of the genre.
decorated with
colourful frosting. Wicker baskets
from Kurpie
Toruń ginger cake
Colourful
bas-relief
Silver rings
Jewellery
Silver jewellery is a speciality of Polish
craftsmen. It is relatively cheap and
comes in a variety of sophisticated
modern designs. Nativity scene painted on glass
Paper cut-out
Amber
Amber artifacts
Amber ship
epitomize Polish
craftsmanship. The
translucent material
is turned into
original jewellery
and ornaments and
is also used for
lampshades and
such intricate pieces
as model ships.
Art Nouveau-style
lamp Embroidered Doilies
Embroidered tablecloths, doilies
Alcohol and clothes are part of the folk
Pure vodka is a Polish speciality. High-grade vodkas, those art of many regions of Poland.
with a mixture of herbal and other extracts – żubrówka, for The finest embroidery is that
example – and liqueurs such as Goldwasser are also very popular. of Kashubia and Małopolska.
Cut Glass
Cut glass is made in many Silesian
factories. The delicate hand-cut patterns
on perfectly transparent glass are
Pure vodkas: Cracovia Wyborowa Goldwasser appreciated the world over.
ENTERTAINMENT IN POLAND
Poland has a vibrant cultural life. In all enjoy taking part in more strenuous
the big cities there is an abundance of pastimes, there is much to satisfy, with
things to do: nightclubs, jazz clubs, casinos, trekking, rock climbing, cycling, windsurfing,
theatres, opera, cinemas and concert halls. canoeing, ice sailing and many other sports
In summer, even the smaller tourist resorts (see pp330–31) on offer. There are also
have much to offer, and it is possible to various spectator sports such as boxing,
chance upon many interesting and unusual soccer, speedboat racing and dirt-track
events, such as a jousting tournament or a motorcycle racing. For animal lovers the
music festival. For those travellers who country boasts a number of zoos.
Cultural Information Centre

(see p329). Theatre, cinema
and concert hall box offices
will also reserve tickets for
their own performances, and
these may be collected just
before the performance begins.
The larger hotels will book
tickets for guests on request.
Surcharges may be applied
for agency bookings.
Venues
Many cultural events, apart from
theatrical performances and
classical concerts, take place in
large public halls. In Warsaw,
José Carreras and Edyta Górniak singing at a charity concert many spectacles are organized
in the Sala Kongresowa in the
Information Ticket Reservations Pałac Kultury. In Katowice, a hall
Visitors looking for information In Warsaw, advance booking called Spodek (The Flying
on Poland’s cultural events for plays, concerts and other Saucer) is the venue for both
should consult the local cultural events in the capital concerts and sports events.
tourist information centres. is dealt with by the ZASP box Wrocław has the Hala Ludowa
In larger cities, information office. In Krakow, tickets can (People’s Hall) and Gdańsk the
bulletins are also issued – in be bought in advance at the Hala Olivia. In summer, concerts
Krakow, for example, there is and festivals are often organized
Karnet. The local supplement in amphitheatres, for example
that is folded into the main in the famous Opera Leśna
copy of Friday’s Gazeta (Forest Opera) in Sopot, the
Wyborcza is another useful amphitheatre in Opole or in
source of information. Details Mrągowo in the Great Mazurian
of cultural events are also Lakes region. In Szczecin and
published in the local press Olsztyn, artistic shows take
and online. place in the castle courtyard.
Bulletins printed in English Castles, palaces and churches
are available in most large all over Poland also host various
hotels and from tourist cultural events.
information centres. These
are entitled Welcome to
Poland… and form a series Theatres
issued for Warsaw, Krakow, In Poland, almost all big cities
Poznań, Gdańsk, Wrocław have their own theatres – the
and Upper Silesia. The Warsaw country has, in total, over 80.
Voice, published in English, Although theatrical companies
has a comprehensive guide move out of town for the
to cultural events in and summer holiday season, their
outside Warsaw. A giraffe in one of Poland’s several zoos premises are often used for
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O L A N D 327
very popular shows. Narodowa (National

Operettas are Philharmonic Orchestra) in
performed in Krakow Warsaw, WOSPR (Great
and Gliwice and at Symphony Orchestra of Polish
Roma in Warsaw, which Radio) in Katowice and the
also presents musicals. Poznań Orchestra, which gives
For opera lovers, the concerts in the University Hall.
productions of the Teatr In Poznań there are perform-
Wielki in Warsaw are ances by Poland’s most famous
recommended. There choir, Poznańskie Słowiki (The
A theatrical production at the Teatr Wielki in Warsaw are also opera houses in Poznań Nightingales), founded
Gdańsk, Wrocław, Łódź, by Stefan Stuligrosz.
festivals or theatre reviews. In Bydgoszcz, Poznań and Bytom, Classical music is performed
Warsaw, the most popular and operas are staged at the in museums, churches and
theatres include Ateneum, Teatr im. Słowackiego in Krakow. palaces throughout the year.
Studio, Polski, Współczesny, The Warsaw Chamber Opera, In the summer, concerts are
Powszechny, Narodowy, Teatr which specializes in Mozart given in the open air. Concerts
Wielki (Great Theatre) and operas, has won international of Chopin’s music are given on
Kwadrat, which specializes in recognition but performs only Sundays in Żelazowa Wola
comedy shows. The Teatr a few times a month. Poland’s and Łazienki Park in Warsaw.
Żydowski (Jewish Theatre) two best ballet companies can
presents spectacles in Yiddish; it be seen in the Teatr Wielki in
is the only such place in Poland Warsaw and Poznań. Folk Music
and attracts an international In Poland there are many bands
audience. In Krakow, the best that perform the traditional folk
theatres are considered to be music of individual regions,
Teatr Stary and Teatr im. although it can be difficult to
Słowackiego. The major track down their concerts. The
theatres in Wrocław are Teatr most likely occasions are the
Polski and Współczesny festivals and reviews that take
(Contemporary Theatre). place mainly in summer (see
Poland has enjoyed p328). Regional groups some-
considerable fame for its avant- times give concerts on public
garde theatre. The productions of holidays or harvest festivals. Many
the Krakovian theatre company singing and dancing groups
Cricot 2 have become world perform especially for tourists in
classics; unfortunately, since the concerts organized by hotels or
death of Tadeusz Kantor, its tourist agencies, but their shows
founder, performances by the A concert in Warsaw’s Concert Studio S1 mostly have little in common
company have seldom taken with genuine folk traditions.
place. The experimental theatre Polish folk music and dance have
of Jerzy Grotowski and his Classical Music been popularized outside Poland
company, the Laboratorium, There are over 20 classical by such high-profile groups as
was also renowned. The Jerzy orchestras in Poland and they Mazowsze and Śląsk. Their shows
Grotowski (Theatrical-Cultural) perform in almost all the are professional spectacles based
Research Centre operates in country’s big cities. Particularly on folk traditions, rather than
Wrocław. The Pantomime Theatre, renowned are the Filharmonia authentic performances.
founded by Henry Tomaszewski
and presenting Polish shows, is
still active. Poznań has its
famous Teatr Ósmego Dnia.
Musicals, Opera
and Ballet
For those who do not
understand the Polish language,
musicals, opera and ballet can
provide the best form of
entertainment, and there is
certainly much to choose from in
these genres. Poland has many
operetta companies. The Teatr
Muzyczny in Gdynia puts on The folk dance group Mazowsze in Krakovian folk costume
the Oder in Wrocław in May,

and Jazz All Souls’ Day in
Krakow in early November. The
International Festival of
Mountain Folklore in Zakopane
and the Festival
of Folk Bands and Singers
in Kazimierz Dolny at the
end of June are major
showcases for folk music.
Tournaments and
Street Markets
Many of the tournaments
Musical performance at the Dominican Street Market in Gdańsk and street festivals that take
place in Poland are colourful
Rock, Jazz and Łańcut Palace, the Chopin events and are popular with
Country Music Music Festival in Duszniki Zdrój tourists. Medieval jousting
Student clubs and music pubs and the Moniuszko Music tournaments are organized in
are the best places to go to hear Festival in Kudowa Zdrój. medieval castles, some of which
rock, jazz and country music in Events of international renown – Bytów, Gniew and Golub-
Poland. In most big cities it is include Warsaw Autumn, the Dobrzyń – have witnessed
quite easy to obtain information great modern music festival, dramatic though bloodless
on current shows. Polish rock and the excellent Wratislavia skirmishes. As well as the joust-
bands are on tour throughout Cantans, a religious song ing tournaments and displays of
the year, and in summer they festival that takes place in archery, there are often feasts of
usually perform in tourist Wrocław in September. meat roasted on open-air fires.
resorts. There are many festivals Lovers of church music gather Church fairs, festivals, picnics
for particular kinds of music, in Hajnówka in June for the and street markets also take
so whatever the visitor’s taste Festival of Orthodox Church place in towns and villages
it will very likely be catered for. Music. In summer, churches throughout Poland. The best-
and cathedrals with especially known include the Dominican
fine organs host festivals of Street Market held in Gdańsk
Festivals, Concerts organ music; these take place at the beginning of August and
and Reviews in Gdańsk-Oliwa, Kamień St John’s Street Market, held in
Poland hosts many festivals, Pomorski, Koszalin, Słupsk, Poznań. As well as the numerous
both local and international. Święta Lipka, Pasym, Warsaw, stalls selling an extraordinary
Two of the major drama festivals Krakow and other towns. Music range of goods, there are
are Malta International Drama lovers also enjoy such major concerts, games and other
Festival, held from late June to international competitions as events to suit every taste.
early July in the streets and the Chopin Piano Competition,
theatres of Poznań, and which takes place every five
Kontakt, which takes place years in Warsaw in October,
in Toruń from May to June. and the Wieniawski Violin
In Warsaw, there is also the Competition, which is held in
Garden Theatres Competition Poznań every four years.
(Konkurs Teatrów Ogródkowych), Song is celebrated at
which lasts all summer, and the the Polish Music
International Festival of Street Festival in Opole
Theatre (Międzynarodowy in June and at the
Festiwal Teatrów Ulicznych) in International
Jelenia Góra in late September. Festival of Song in
Warsaw Theatre Meetings Sopot in August.
(Warszawskie Spotkania Country Picnic,
Teatralne) are also among the which takes place
most exciting theatrical events. in Mrągowo in
Opera festivals, such as the July, is a country music
Mozart Festival in Warsaw, and festival. Jazz festivals are
ballet festivals, for example in also very popular. Major
Poznań, are also popular. The jazz events include
most famous classical music the Warsaw Jazz
festivals are the Chamber Music Jamboree in late
Days, organized in May in October, Jazz on A knight at a tournament at the castle in Gniew
DIRECTORY
Information and Współczesny (Con- Classical Music Rock, Jazz and
Ticket Sales temporary Theatre) Country Music
Filharmonia
Warsaw, ul. Mokotowska
Cultural Information Krakow, ul. Zwierzyniecka Harenda
13. Tel 22 825 59 79. Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie
Centre 1. Tel 12 619 87 21.
∑ wspolczesny.pl Przedmieście 4–6. Tel 22
Krakow, ul. św. Jana 2. ∑ filharmonia.krakow.
Tel 12 429 51 50. pl 826 29 00. ∑ harenda.pl
Musicals, Opera
∑ karnet.krakow.pl Jazz Club u Muniaka
and Ballet Filharmonia Bałtycka
∑ pogodzinach.pl Gdańsk, ul. Ołowianka 1. Krakow, ul. Floriańska 3.
Kasy ZASP (Central Opera Tel 58 320 62 62. Tel 12 423 12 05.
Box Office) Wroclaw, ul. Świdnicka 35. ∑ filharmonia.gda.pl Jazz Club Tygmont
Warsaw, al. Jerozolimskie 25. Tel 71 370 88 00.
Filharmonia Warsaw, ul. Mazowiecka
Tel 22 621 94 54. ∑ opera.wroclaw.pl 6/8. Tel 22 828 34 09.
Częstochowska
Opera Leśna Częstochowa, ul. Wilsona ∑ tygmont.com.pl
Theatres Sopot, ul. Moniuszki 12. 16. Tel 34 324 42 30. Pod Jaszczurami
Tel 58 555 84 00. ∑ filharmonia.com.pl Krakow, Rynek Główny 8.
Ateneum
Warsaw, ul. Jaracza 2. ∑ operalesna.sopot.pl Tel 12 429 45 38.
Filharmonia im. M.
Tel 22 625 24 21. Karłowicza ∑ podjaszczurami.pl
Opera i operetka
∑ teatrateneum.pl Krakow, ul. Lubicz 48. Szczecin, ul. Małopolska Regeneracja
Tel 12 296 61 00. 48. Tel 91 430 95 10. Warsaw, ul. Puławska 61.
Narodowy (National
Theatre) ∑ opera.krakow.pl Filharmonia Łódzka Tel 22 646 38 08.
Warsaw, Plac Teatralny. Opera Śląska im. A. Rubinsteina
Tel 22 690 26 09. Łódź, Narutowicza 20/22.
Nightclubs
Bytom, ul. Moniuszki 21.
∑ narodowy.pl Tel 32 396 68 00. Tel 42 664 79 99. Blue Note Club
∑ filharmonia.lodz.pl Poznań, C.K. Zamek, ul.
Powszechny ∑ opera-slaska.pl
Warsaw, ul. Zamoyskiego 20. Filharmonia Kościuszki. Tel 61 657 07
Polski Teatr Tańca 77. ∑ bluenote.
Tel 22 818 48 19. Narodowa
Poznań, ul. Kozia 4. poznan.pl
∑ powszechny.art.pl Warsaw, ul. Sienkiewicza
Tel 61 852 42 42.
10. Tel 22 551 71 11. Hybrydy
Teatr im. J. ∑ ptt-poznan.pl
∑ filharmonia.pl Warsaw, ul. Złota 7/9.
Słowackiego
Roma (Musical Filharmonia Tel 22 822 30 03.
Krakow, pl. Świętego
Theatre) ∑ hybrydy.com.pl
Ducha 1. Poznańska
Warsaw, ul. Nowogrodzka Poznań, ul. św. Marcin 81.
Tel 12 424 45 00. Park
49. Tel 22 628 89 98. Tel 61 852 47 08. Warsaw, al.
∑ slowacki.krakow.pl
∑ teatrroma.pl ∑ filharmonia Niepodległości 196.
Teatr Ósmego Dnia poznanska.pl Tel 22 825 91 65.
Śląski Teatr Tańca
Poznań, ul. Ratajczaka 44.
Bytom, ul. Żeromskiego Filharmonia im. Parlament
Tel 61 855 20 86.
27. Tel 32 281 82 53. Witolda Gdańsk, ul. św. Ducha 2.
∑ osmego.art.pl
Studio-Buffo Lutosławskiego Tel 58 320 13 65.
Teatr im. St. Wrocław, ul. Piłsudskiego
Witkiewicza Warsaw, Konopnickiej 6. Platinium
19. Tel 71 342 20 01.
Zakopane, Chramcówki Tel 22 622 63 93. Warsaw, ul. Fredry 6.
∑ nfm.wroclaw.pl
∑ studiobuffo.com.pl Tel 694 413 439.
15. Tel 18 206 82 97.
NOSPR ∑ platiniumclub.pl
Teatr Stary Teatr Muzyczny
Katowice, plac Wojciecha
Poznań, ul. Niezłomnych Remont
Krakow, pl. Szczepański 1. Kilara 1. Tel 32 251 89 03.
1a. Tel 61 852 17 86. Warsaw, ul. Waryńskiego
Tel 12 422 40 40. ∑ nospr.org.pl
12. Tel 22 234 91 11.
Teatr Wielki-Opera Teatr Muzyczny w Opera Bałtycka
Gliwicach Stodoła
Narodowa Gdańsk, al. Zwycięstwa 15. Warsaw, ul. Batorego 10.
Warsaw, pl. Teatralny 1. Gliwice, ul. Nowy Świat 55. Tel 58 763 49 12. Tel 22 825 60 31.
Tel 22 692 02 00. Tel 32 230 67 18. ∑ operabaltycka.pl ∑ stodola.pl
∑ teatrwielki.pl ∑ teatr.gliwice.pl
Studio Koncertowe
Teatr Żydowski Teatr Wielki S1 im. W.
Warsaw, pl. Grzybowski Łódź, pl. Dąbrowskiego 1. Lutosławskiego
12/16. Tel 22 620 62 81. Tel 42 633 99 60. Warsaw, ul. Woronicza 17.
Tel 22 645 52 52.
Wrocławski Teatr Teatr Wielki-Opera
Pantomimy Narodowa Teatr Muzyczny
Wrocław, al. Dębowa 16. Warsaw, pl. Teatralny 1. Gdynia, pl. Grunwaldzki 1.
Tel 71 337 21 04. Tel 22 692 02 00. Tel 58 661 60 00.
∑ pantomima.wroc.pl ∑ teatrwielki.pl ∑ muzyczny.org
Sport and Leisure

Tourists in Poland – those, at least, who are interested in such
things – are fortunate in the enormous range of open-air
activities available to them. The possibilities – which range
from strenuous rock climbing and exhilarating skiing at one
end of the scale to serene sailing or peaceful mountain
trekking at the other – are almost endless. Horse riding is
very popular as Poland has a centuries-old reputation for its
excellent stud farms. There are also lakeside fishing and long
canoeing trips (see pp292–3). Winter attractions include skiing
and ice sailing on the frozen Mazurian Lakes.
increasing numbers of The caves in the Jurassic rocks of the

enthusiasts. In addition to Krakow-Częstochowa Upland
stables with long-standing
traditions, more riding stables, camp. Such camps are
both large and small have been organized by travel agencies,
established. While some of usually student ones.
these are open to all, others
are quite exclusive.
Cycling
It is possible to travel the length
Hiking and breadth of Poland on a
Hiking is very popular in Poland. bicycle. However, tourist cycling
The most attractive areas with tracks are not marked, so it is
beautiful landscapes usually definitely advisable to buy one
have specially marked hiking of the guidebooks for cyclists in
routes. Hiking maps are Poland before setting out.
available both in specialist Narrow, busy roads should be
bookshops and in local stores avoided. It is also difficult to
Rock climbing – a sport for the fit and newsagents. Hikers can rest cycle safely in big cities, as
and courageous or stay overnight in tourist there are few cycle lanes.
hostels, which are numerous
Rock Climbing in the mountains.
The most difficult and When hiking in the Hang-Gliding
dangerous climbing routes mountains, it is forbidden There are numerous hang-
are in the Tatra Mountains. to stray off the marked gliding schools in Poland. While
Climbing equipment is available track. Hiking can be done some operate throughout the
in specialist shops. Although a independently. Alternatively, year, others are open only in the
licence is needed for climbing it is possible to join a hiking tourist season. All the schools
in the Tatra National Park,
climbers have free access to the
skałki (rocks) of the Karkonosze
Mountains and of the Krakow-
Częstochowa Upland.
In areas where there is a
dearth of mountains, climbers
can practise on concrete walls;
early 20th-century fortifications
have found a new use.
Horse Riding
Polish studs have long enjoyed
high esteem for the quality of
their horses. Even when they
were nationalized under
Communist rule, they were
highly regarded. Horse riding is
once again popular, attracting Hiking in the foothills of the Tatra Mountains (see pp170–71)
have up-to-date, officially

approved equipment. There
are courses for individuals or
small groups. Although hang-
gliding is associated with
mountains, it is also popular
in lowland areas, on the coast
or around the lakes.
Sailing and Windsurfing

The lakes and rivers of northern
Poland offer endless scope for
sailing. Yachts and other boats
can be hired from lakeside
hostels. A stay in a sailing camp Sailing is a popular summer sport
is a popular holiday. The
longest and most attractive Ice Sailing Golf
sailing routes are those on the The best place in all of Poland Golf did not become popular
Great Mazurian Lakes, the for ice sailing is Lake Mamry, in Poland until the late 1980s.
estuary of the Vistula and one of the Great Mazurian Lakes It is a novel and exclusive sport.
Szczecin Bay. Windsurfing – (see pp290–91). Lake Mamry Most famous politicians,
on the lakes, the coastal bays happens to be one of the business people and those
and the Baltic Sea – is an coldest lakes in Poland, and with a high profile in the arts
increasingly popular sport. in winter, when it is frozen over, frequent the 18-hole golf course
it is perfect for ice sailing. at Rajszewo, near Warsaw. The
International ice-sailing best golf courses are in
competitions have been held Pomerania and Warmia.
here since the inter-war years.
DIRECTORY
Skiing Sporting
Zakopane (see pp170–71), Organizations
situated at the foot of the Rock Climbing
Tatra Mountains, is the winter Warsaw, ul. Corazziego 5/24.
capital of Poland. There are Tel 22 875 85 05.
pistes both for beginners and ∑ pza.org.pl
experienced skiers. The longest
and most difficult descents are Horse Riding
Warsaw, ul. Lektykarska 29.
on Mount Kasprowy, and
Tel 22 417 67 00.
A windsurfing competition in the Gulf include the Gąsienicowa run, ∑ pzj.pl
of Gdańsk 9.7 km (6 miles) long, and the
Goryczkowa run, 5.25 km Hang-Gliding
(3 miles) long. The skiing season Warsaw, ul. Nad Wisłą 4a.
Canoeing runs from November to March. ∑ psp.org.pl
The most attractive routes for Pistes on Mount Nosal, 590 m Sailing
canoeing trips are in the north (over 1,900 ft) high, are the most Warsaw, all. ks. J. Poniatowskiego
of Poland, in the region of the popular. Those on Mount 1. Tel 22 541 63 63.
Augustów Canal (see pp292–3), Gubałówka, 1,600 m (5,250 ft) ∑ pya.org.pl
and in the Great Mazurian high, are less demanding. Yachting
Lakes district. The most Beginners will find many easy Warsaw, Wał Miedzeszyński 377.
beautiful trips are those along pistes in the vicinity of Białka Tel 22 617 63 11.
the River Krutynia and on the and Bukowina Tatrzańska. There ∑ ykpwarszawa.pl
Western Pomeranian Lakes. are also many long, perfectly
Rowing
Most canoeing trips last from prepared ski runs in Szczyrk
Warsaw, ul. Kopernika 30.
a few days to a fortnight, and Brenna, Wisła and Ustroń in
Tel 22 826 43 64 or
travellers usually make the Beskid Mountains of Silesia, 827 11 30.
overnight stops at campsites. and also in Szklarska Poręba in ∑ pztw.org.pl
Canoes can be hired at the Karkonosze Mountains and
riverside hostels. Route maps on the slopes of Mount Skiing
are available in specialist Śnieżnik. The ski routes down Krakow, ul. Mieszczańska 18/3.
bookshops or local stores. Mount Jaworzyna near Krynica Tel 12 260 99 70.
∑ pzn.pl
For the fit, this is a wonderful Górska are among the longest
way to see the country. in Poland.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 334–343

Travel Information 344–353
334 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Poland’s popularity with visitors has been Railway stations in big cities have been
growing steadily since the mid-1990s, modernized, although those in smaller
and the country’s infrastructure has towns offer only limited facilities. Poland’s
undergone major changes as a result. road network has also undergone a
Tourist information centres are easy to significant overhaul, and there are now
find, and tourist-friendly signs help visitors a number of motorways linking the major
navigate their way around the major towns cities. Elsewhere, roads are frequently busy
and cities. Credit and debit cards are widely with traffic and quite often poorly surfaced,
accepted, and Wi-Fi Internet is a common so travelling around the country by road can
feature of hotels, restaurants and bars. be time-consuming.
consulates outside the capital

(the USA and UK have one
in Krakow, for example). Be
aware that consulates can
help only with minor
problems; if you lose your
passport, you will be referred
to the embassy in Warsaw.
Customs Information
If you are travelling to or from
another EU country, there are
few restrictions on items that
can be brought into and taken
out of Poland, for personal use.
Visitors from outside the EU
should check the customs
regulations of their home
country – there are likely to
Relaxing at a café in the Cloth Hall, on Krakow’s Main Market Square be limits on the amount of
cigarettes, alcoholic beverages,
When to Go many guesthouses, hotels, toiletries and gifts that can be
Poland enjoys warm summers; clubs and restaurants in taken home. The maximum
mild springs and autumns; and popular coastal resorts and value of currency that can
cold, dry winters. Spring and lakeside spots are closed. be brought into or taken
summer are frequently hit by out of Poland is €10,000 (or
rain, so it is wise for visitors to equivalent). Sums in excess
pack waterproof clothing Visas and Passports of this must be declared to
regardless of the season. Citizens of countries in the the customs authority.
Spring and summer draw European Union, the USA,
big crowds to much-visited Australia, Canada and New
cities such as Warsaw and Zealand can enter Poland
Krakow, as well as to the without a visa, on production of
country’s coastal, lakeside a valid passport. Visitors from
and mountain resorts. Many other countries should check
cultural institutions, such as the latest visa regulations with
theatres and concert halls, their local Polish embassy.
tend to close in the summer; Poland is a member of the
however, big museums and Schengen group of European
galleries are at their busiest Union countries, which means
at this time. The skiing season that there are unlikely to be any
runs from the end of November border controls when entering
until mid-March. Poland from another Schengen-
If you are travelling in peak zone country.
season, it is a good idea to Foreign embassies are
book accommodation in located in Warsaw, although The tourist information centre in
advance. In spring and autumn, a few countries also maintain Zakopane
A horse-drawn carriage in Warsaw’s Castle Square
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 335
Etiquette and Smoking

Poland is one of the most
devout Roman Catholic
countries in Europe, with most
citizens trying to attend Mass
at least once a week. Religious
holidays are solemnly observed,
and the cult of the Virgin Mary
is particularly strong. Eastern
Poland has a large Orthodox
minority, and Poland’s Tatar
population maintains mosques
in a handful of eastern villages
and in the city of Gdańsk.
Sightseeing is allowed
in churches, but visitors should
Strolling on ulica Floriańska by the Florian Gate, Krakow refrain from making noise
and use cameras discreetly.
You will need a licence to export institutions, admission is free In addition, visitors should
any item that is more than 100 on one day of the week. dress modestly (no bare
years old or any artwork that is Churches in big cities are open arms for women; no summer
more than 50 years old and from dawn till dusk, although shorts for men).
exceeding 16,000zł in value. For visitors are discouraged from Before 1939, there was a
more information contact the sightseeing during religious Polish Jewish population of over
Ministry of Culture and National services. In small towns and 3 million. The vast majority were
Heritage (www.mkidn.gov.pl). villages, churches are murdered during the Holocaust.
frequently closed during the Today, there are working
day, so try to arrive just before synagogues in a handful of big
Tourist Information or just after Mass; Mass times cities, while many synagogues
Most major towns and cities are usually advertised on the in small-town Poland are
in Poland have a tourist church door. Admission to preserved as museums.
information centre on or near churches tends to be free. Some require visitors to wear
the main square, although they a black skullcap; these are
will vary in size and usefulness. available at the entrance.
Most tourist centres have well- Smoking is banned from
informed staff who speak most public places. Almost
English or one other major all restaurants and cafés are
language and can provide free Sign indicating a church totally smoke-free indoors,
leaflets about attractions in the although smoking is still
area. Very often they will be able permitted at the outdoor
to supply a free map or offer a Language tables in those establishments
range of local maps for sale. In terms of nationality, Poland that have a pavement terrace
The telephone numbers and is a very uniform country, and or garden. Only a handful of
addresses of tourist information Polish is spoken everywhere. bars and clubs have retained a
centres are listed in the relevant Polish belongs to the same self-contained indoor area
parts of this guidebook. Slavonic family of languages where smoking is allowed.
The Polish National Tourist as Czech, Russian, Ukrainian
Office has a good multilingual and others; however, these
website; several regional languages are not always Access to Public
tourist office websites also mutually intelligible. Younger Conveniences
have useful content. Poles are likely to understand Public conveniences are
English, and, as a rule, people rare in Poland, although
who work in the tourist industry most shopping centres,
Opening Hours and speak English very well. German museum attractions and
Admission Prices is also widely spoken in the petrol stations have free toilets.
Generally, Polish museums are north of the country. Older Bus and railway stations have
open from Tuesday to Sunday, Poles and staff in banks, post pay-to-use toilets in varying
usually from 9 or 10am to 4 or offices and railway stations are states of cleanliness (usually
5pm. Entrance charges for less likely to speak English. the bigger the station, the
major museums and big art It is useful – as well as better). Facilities in restaurants
exhibitions are similar to those courteous – for visitors to and bars are free for guests,
in Western Europe, although master at least a few basic except in old-fashioned
ticket prices in smaller towns words and phrases in Polish establishments, where
are often quite low. In many (see pp374–6). everyone must pay.
336 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
of bars and clubs that have a

pronounced gay or lesbian
clientele. In Krakow there is a
handful of dedicated gay and
lesbian nightlife venues and
many more bohemian bars
and clubs that are tolerant of
people of all persuasions.
Travelling on a Budget
Young visitors and students
travelling to Poland can enjoy
great benefits by applying for
international youth and
student cards prior to their trip.
The ISIC (International Student
Identity Card) and the
Crowds celebrating the annual Gay Pride parade in Warsaw European Youth Card, for
example, entitle holders to
Travellers with Special screen jukebox. In Krakow, the reduced rates in museums,
Needs Stanisław Lem Garden of tourist attractions and inter-
Facilities for the disabled in Experiences is an outdoor city buses, as well as to
Poland are improving. All science park involving lots discounts at a wide range
renovated and modern public of opportunities for play. of businesses throughout
buildings have ramps or lifts for Poland, from hostels and car
the convenience of disabled hire firms to restaurants and
people. An increasing number of Gay and Lesbian entertainment venues. The
trams and buses have low-floor Travellers businesses offering discounts
entrances for easy wheelchair Poland is a conservative- display the logos of the cards
access, and special wheelchair- minded country in which gay in their windows.
friendly taxis are also and lesbian communities An ISIC card is available to
available. Some pedestrian have not yet met with anyone who is either a full-time
crossings have low kerbs, across-the-board public student or under the age of 26.
and the number of those acceptance. There is a It can be purchased in your
equipped with an audio Gay Pride march in home country or through youth
message for the blind is Warsaw in June, and a tourism specialist Almatur,
on the rise. However, Tolerance march in which has offices in most major
moving around in a Krakow in April/May; Polish cities, providing you have
wheelchair is not always however, both events documentary evidence of your
easy on account of the Parking sign for are frequently met with status. The European Youth
cars parked on disabled people counter-demonstrations Card is available to anyone
pavements. Most organized by religious under the age of 30 and can
shops in cities have groups opposed to gay rights. be bought from numerous
wheelchair access. Warsaw is the most liberal of outlets throughout Europe
Poland’s cities, with a handful of or online via the European
gay-friendly hotels and plenty Youth Card website.
Travelling with Children
The Polish are a family-oriented
people, and they quickly warm
to travellers with small children.
Many public parks feature play
areas, and facilities for kids are
improving in all of Poland’s
major tourist attractions.
In Warsaw, the Copernicus
Centre is largely devoted to
children, with hands-on science
experiments for all ages and
interactive displays for
teenagers. Also in the capital is
the Chopin Museum (see p84),
which has a kids’ corner with
educational toys and a touch- The Copernicus Centre, where the science exhibits will appeal to both children and adults
Time policies are still in their Mirowska market (held daily)

Poland is in the Central infancy here. are far more likely to sell
European Time zone, which is Travelling responsibly is seasonal produce of local
1 hour ahead of Greenwich largely a matter of common provenance than large
Mean Time, 6 hours ahead of sense. Eating in chain supermarkets. BioBazar is an
US Eastern Standard Time and restaurants or fast-food outlets organic farmers’ market held
11 hours ahead of Australian increases the likelihood that you in Warsaw every Saturday.
Eastern Standard Time. Summer will be consuming cheaply Instead of relying on the
time, 2 hours ahead of supplied products that have not plastic bags offered by Polish
Greenwich Mean Time, applies come from ecologically sound shops, take your own multiple-
from late March to late October. sources. When shopping for use bag. When disposing of
food, head for an outdoor rubbish, ask locals to direct you
market. Stall-holders at Krakow’s to the nearest recycling points.
Electrical Appliances Stary Kleparz market (held These usually offer bins for
In Poland, the electric voltage Mon–Sat) or Warsaw’s Hala paper, glass and plastics.
is 220 V. Plugs are of the two-
pin type, as is the case in
most continental European
countries. It is wise to purchase
a European travel adaptor in
your own country before you
leave for Poland.
Responsible Tourism
Green issues have made little
impact on Poland as a whole.
A handful of hostels advertise
themselves as eco-friendly, and
there are moves to promote
rural B&B tourism under the
“ecotourism” banner, but green Fresh produce on sale at the Stary Kleparz market, Krakow
DIRECTORY
Embassies and United States Wrocław Krakow: Rynek
Consulates Stolarska 9, Krakow. Rynek 14. Tel 71 344 31 11. Główny 27.
Tel 12 424 51 00. ∑ wroclaw-info.pl Tel 12 422 46 68.
Australia ∑ krakow.usconsulate.
Poznań: ul. Ratajczaka 8.
ul. Nowogrodzka 11, gov Travelling with Tel 61 855 76 33.
Warsaw.
Tourist Children Wrocław: al. Armii
Tel 22 521 34 44.
Information Copernicus Centre Krajowej 12a.
∑ australia.pl
Tel 71 343 41 35.
Wybrzeże Kościuskowskie
Canada Polish National ∑ almatur.pl
20, Warsaw.
ul. Matejki 1/5, Warsaw. Tourist Office
Tel 22 596 41 00. European Youth Card
Tel 22 584 31 00. ∑ poland.travel
∑ kopernik.org.pl ∑ eyca.pl
∑ canada.pl Gdańsk
Stanisław Lem ISIC
Ireland Długi Targ 28/29.
Garden of ∑ isic.org
ul. Mysia 5, Warsaw. Tel 58 301 43 55.
∑ gdansk4u.pl Experiences
Tel 22 849 66 33. Aleja pokoju, Krakow. Responsible Travel
∑ embassyofireland.pl Krakow Tel 12 346 1285.
Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny. BioBazar
New Zealand ∑ ogroddoswiadczen.
Tel 12 433 73 10. ul. Żelazna 51/53, Warsaw.
al. Ujazdowskie 51, pl
∑ krakow-info.com
Hala Mirowska
Warsaw.
Poznań Travelling on pl. Mirowski 1, Warsaw.
Tel 22 521 05 00. Stary Rynek 59/60.
∑ nzembassy.com/
a Budget Stary Kleparz
Tel 61 852 61 56.
poland Rynek Kleparski, Krakow.
∑ poznan.pl Almatur
United Kingdom Warsaw Warsaw: ul. Kopernika 23.
sw. Anny 9, Krakow. PKiN (Palace of Culture & Tel 22 826 26 39.
Tel 12 421 70 30. Science), pl. Defilad 1. Gdańsk:
∑ ukinpoland.fco. Map 3 A1/B1. Tel 22 831 al. Grunwaldzka 140.
gov.uk 78 53. ∑ warsawtour.pl Tel 58 301 29 31.
338 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health public transport, major railway

stations and busy markets are
Poland is a relatively problem-free country in which to the places where pickpockets
travel, and visitors are unlikely to encounter any trouble are most active. Keep an eye
providing they take the usual precautions against petty on your bag or rucksack, and
crime. Pharmacies are stocked with well-known remedies, carry it in a safe way. Do not
put your passport, wallet and
so minor cases of ill health are easily dealt with. Polish
other valuables in a back pocket
hospitals are not as well equipped as their Western or the external pockets of a
European counterparts, but staff are just as highly rucksack. Pickpockets frequently
trained. Basic hospital care is free for citizens of EU operate in gangs, and a sudden
countries, although specialized or private treatment push or other such tactic
can be expensive. Visitors are advised to take out travel intended to distract you is
hardly ever accidental. If
insurance before embarking on their trip.
possible, leave your valuables
in the safe of your hotel.
Car break-ins are common,
and valuables should never be
left unattended in the car. You
may save your windows from
being smashed by removing
the radio and taking it with you.
A number of guarded car parks
are available in city centres, and
it might be wise to use them.
Few Polish cities have no-go
areas, although visitors are
A typical Polish police car, silver with a navy-blue band advised to avoid badly lit
neighbourhoods of suburban
Police wine) in their blood will be Warsaw and to take taxis
Security in Poland is provided subjected to a spot fine or home from outlying nightlife
by several different forces. The arrested. In the event of a destinations rather than
state police are armed and have serious road accident, you are walking. Polish cities that are
the right to arrest suspects. required by law to popular with young
Policemen patrol streets on foot call an ambulance weekend tourists
or in navy-blue-and-silver cars. and the fire (notably Krakow)
In many Polish cities the regular brigade. You are Police sign are prone to over-
police force is augmented by also required to contact charging, so avoid the
the Municipal Watch (Straż the traffic police. tourist-trap bars and clubs. Male
Miejska), who are unarmed, and visitors travelling alone or in
have no power of arrest but still small groups should be wary of
perform an important street- What to Be Aware Of overfriendly young females
patrolling function. There are Poland is generally a law-abiding suggesting a drink in a nearby
also private security agencies, country, but visitors should bar – a hugely inflated bill will
which are generally responsible exercise a common-sense level probably be the result. Late-
for security in large shops and of caution when in big cities night noisy behaviour in Krakow
public buildings, as well as and busy areas. Crowded bars, and other party cities is
during public events. They frequent, but outright public
are usually uniformed and disorder is actually very rare.
should always carry identifi- Football hooliganism is not
cation badges. unknown in Poland.Although
Traffic wardens are mainly violence sometimes flares up
concerned with the at matches, outsiders are
enforcement of parking and unlikely to be involved.
traffic regulations. They wear
different uniforms from town to
town, and their cars carry plates In an Emergency
bearing the town emblem. Call 112 for emergencies
The highway police are requiring medical, police or fire
responsible for traffic offences. services. Ambulance services
Anyone found driving a car, are on call day and night. Minor
motorcycle or bicycle with over health problems can often be
0.02 per cent of alcohol Two policemen patrolling the streets dealt with in a pharmacy; for
(equivalent to half a glass of of Krakow more serious injury or illness,
head for the casualty you are entitled to, and where
department of one of the and how to claim. You may still
big city hospitals. The main have to pay in advance to
pharmacies and hospitals are obtain treatment and claim the
listed in the Directory. money back later. As not all
treatments are covered, it is
advisable to take out additional
Lost and Stolen Property health insurance; you must
If you lose something in a café, keep official medical reports
restaurant or museum in Poland, and receipts in order to recoup
there is a good chance that the the costs of treatment.
staff will keep it for a day or two Make sure you travel with all
in the expectation that you will relevant insurance documents.
return. It is a good idea to write Keep a copy in your hotel room
your phone number inside bags or with a reliable family member
and wallets – in the event of loss, The old-fashioned façade of a pharmacy back home.
a good citizen or a policeman in Krakow
may well call to inform you that DIRECTORY
it has been found. may be subject to a fee, which
If you lose property on the is often required in advance, In an Emergency
Warsaw public transport system, along with a passport for
Ambulance, Police
call 022 663 32 97 (for trams), identification. and Fire
022 655 42 42 (metro) or 022 Treatment for minor ailments Tel 112.
699 72 35 (suburban trains). is available at pharmacies,
Items left on planes, inter-city where helpful trained staff can Hospitals and
trains or buses will be kept at lost provide advice on remedies. 24-Hour Pharmacies
property offices at the airport, Polish pharmacies stock all
railway station and bus station kinds of international over- Gdańsk
respectively. There are two lost the-counter medicines. Apteka Dyżurna
Wały Jagiellońskie 28/30.
property offices in Krakow –
Tel 58 320 78 37.
one for items lost on public
transport (MPK Transport Office, Travel and Health Krakow
ul. Brożka 3, Tel 12 254 11 50), Insurance Szpital im. Gabriela Narutowicza
and one for items misplaced Travel insurance that includes ul. Prądnicka 35.
elsewhere in the city (Biuro provision for health care is Tel 12 416 22 66.
Rzeczy Znalezionych, ul. highly recommended. The Apteka Pod Opatrznością
Wielicka 28, Tel 12 616 57 13). longer you stay abroad, the Karmelicka 23.
For any stolen items, contact more important it is to ensure Tel 12 631 19 80.
the police (see Directory). that you have substantial health Warsaw
cover. Many airlines and travel Apteka Beata
agents offer insurance when al. Solidarności 149.
Hospitals and you book your holiday. World Tel 22 620 08 18.
Pharmacies Nomads is a reputable service Also: Warszawa Centralna
Both state and private health that offers travel insurance to train station
care are available in Poland. citizens of 150 countries. Medicover
Staff are highly trained and EU nationals are entitled to al. Rzeczypospolitej 5.
professional in both sectors, state health care in Poland on Tel 500 900 999.
though private hospitals are production of a valid European ∑ medicover.pl
more likely to have up-to-date Health Insurance Card (EHIC).
equipment. In the state sector, In the UK, this can be obtained Travel and Health
first aid is provided free of from a post office or online. A Insurance
charge, but other treatment booklet details what health care European Health
Insurance Card
For UK residents:
∑ ehic.org.uk
For Irish residents:
∑ ehic.ie
World Nomads
∑ worldnomads.com
An ambulance with flashing blue lights

340 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency

Financial transactions are easy in Poland. ATMs taking all
major cards can be found in cities and towns throughout
the country. Bureaux de change frequently offer more
favourable exchange rates than the banks, and they can
be found near railway stations, in city centres and at most
tourist destinations. Credit and debit cards are accepted
by an increasing number of shops and restaurants, especially
in the main cities. Signs displayed by the entrance to the
establishment indicate which cards are accepted. Automated teller machine (ATM) for cash
withdrawal
Banks and Bureaux de shopping centres, airports, and markets, suburban railway
Change railway and bus stations. Instruct- stations and in smaller
Banks are located in most Polish ions are usually available in establishments in suburban
town centres. In the bigger Polish and English plus two or areas or country villages so it
cities, they can also be found in three other major languages. is a good idea to carry a small
outlying residential areas. Banks Symbols indicating which cards amount of Polish cash with
generally open at 9 or 10am can be used will be displayed you. Owners of rural B&Bs
and close at 5 or 6pm. Banks are on the machine. Check these frequently take cash only.
busy, and you should expect carefully – most ATMs accept all Establishments usually indicate
queues. At some branches, you cards belonging to the VISA and which cards they accept by
have to take a numbered ticket Maestro/MasterCard families, displaying the appropriate
at the entrance and wait until but a small number do not. stickers in their windows.
the number is displayed on a ATM withdrawals will be It is advisable to notify your
screen before approaching the marginally more expensive than bank before you travel so that
counter. Most banks have their changing cash, the exchange they expect your card to be
own exchange service, but rate is fractionally less used in Poland.
better rates are offered by advantageous, and a small fee
independent bureaux de will be added by your bank for DIRECTORY
change (kantor), which do not each ATM transaction carried
charge commission. Most banks out when abroad. The maximum Banks
cash traveller’s cheques, but the amount of cash you can with-
Bank Pekao
process can be time-consuming. draw in one day will be fixed by Krakow: Rynek Główny 31.
Foreign currency can also be your bank at home; check this Gdańsk: Garncarska 23.
changed at hotels (some have before you travel. Poznań: ul. Świety Marcin 52/56.
a 24-hour service), but rates Be aware of your surroundings Warsaw: al. Jerozolimskie 44.
are usually poor. when using an ATM. Make sure
Big Polish banks with you shield your PIN and be PKO Bank
Krakow: Wielopole 19.
numerous branches around careful when removing your card.
Krakow: Rynek Główny 21.
the country include PKO Bank
Warsaw: Nowogrodzka 35/41.
(Bank Polski) and Bank Pekao. Wrocław: Wita Stwosza 33/35.
International banks with Credit and Debit Cards
branches in Poland include ING, Credit and debit cards are Bureaux de Change
HSBC and Raiffeisen-Polbank. accepted in hotels, car rental
outlets, larger railway stations, 777
big museums, most city centre al. Jerozolimskie 65/7, Warsaw.
ATMs shops, most restaurants and Tel 22 630 51 07.
∑ 777.com.pl
ATMs (bankomat) can be found many cafés and bars. Cards are
outside most banks, as well as in unlikely to be accepted in Euro-Kantor
Szewska 21, Krakow.
Tel 12 421 55 65.
Grosz
Sławkowska 4, Krakow.
Tel 12 421 78 22.
Kantor Dime
Krakowskie Przedmieście 41,
Warsaw.
Tel 22 826 16 85.
∑ dime.com.pl
The entrance to a branch of PKO Bank (Bank Polski) in Warsaw

Currency
The Polish unit of currency is the złoty, a term that
literally means “golden” and that dates back to the
Middle Ages, when gold pieces were used. Złoty
is most commonly abbreviated to zł, although
you will see the abbreviation PLN in banks and on
your credit card statement. One złoty is made up
of 100 groszy (gr). Polish coins come in denomin-
ations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 gr and 1, 2 and 5 zł. 10 złoty
Bank notes come in
denominations of 10, 20,
50, 100 and 200 zł. Each
bank note bears the
portrait of a Polish king.
20 złoty
50 złoty 100 złoty
Banknotes
Polish banknotes are issued in denominations of
10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 zł. All bear the portrait of
Polish rulers and are embossed to make them
recognizable to blind people. In addition to
standard protection against fraud, the 100- and
200-zł notes are also marked with holograms.
200 złoty
5 złoty 2 złoty 1 złoty 50 groszy
Coins
Polish coins are issued in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy,
and 1, 2 and 5 złoty. The reverse bears the Polish eagle wearing a crown.
The smallest coins – the 1-, 2- and 5-grosz pieces – are made of copper
alloy. The 10-, 20- and 50-grosz coins and the 1-złoty piece are made of
nickel alloy. The 2- and 5-złoty pieces are gold- and silver-coloured.
20 groszy
10 groszy 5 groszy 2 groszy 1 grosz

342 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media Public Telephones

With so many Poles now
The main telephone service is provided by Telekomunikacja using mobile phones,
Polska (TP), although there are several mobile phone public telephones are less
operators such as Plus, Orange and T-Mobile. Card-operated commonplace than they used
to be. However, they can still be
public telephones can be found in town centres but are found around town centres and
increasingly rare elsewhere. Some phone booths are near railway and bus stations.
wheelchair-accessible. Many hotels and cafés offer free To make a telephone call,
Wi-Fi access to their guests. International newspapers and lift the receiver and wait for a
magazines are widely available, and most hotel rooms have continuous dialling tone. Insert
a telephone card when the
cable TV. There is no shortage of post offices, which are run
words włóż kartę (“insert card”)
by Poczta Polska. are displayed. The screen will
indicate the amount of credit
(kredyt) available. Dial the
International and Local number you wish to reach,
Telephone Calls and await connection. Note
To make a telephone call in that a short, rapidly repeating
Poland, you may choose to tone indicates that the number
use a public telephone or go is engaged. When you have
through the operator service finished the call, simply replace
at the post office. Note that the receiver and remove the
calling from your hotel room ejected card.
will work out much more
expensive, so it is better to
find a public telephone at Internet Access
the hotel or in its vicinity. If you are travelling to Poland
The vast majority of public with a laptop or a smart
phones are card-operated. phone, there are numerous
Telephone cards (karty opportunities to log on to the
telefoniczne) can be bought Internet for little or no cost.
from newsagents and post Public telephone Several hotels, cafés and bars
offices. It is possible to find 15-, provide Wi-Fi access for their
30- and 60-unit cards. A local and top it up as you go. You guests. Some places charge for
call will only use up a few units can do this only if your handset Wi-Fi use, but in most cases it is
of a phone card, but for long- is unlocked – ask your network free. Establishments that offer
distance calls the highest-value provider for advice. Wi-Fi access will display a Wi-Fi
card is a much better option. If you are using a smart sticker in the window. Free Wi-Fi
phone, be aware that zones can be found in
charges for data many Polish cities,
Mobile Phones roaming can be high. frequently in the
Most European mobile phones If you want to make main square.
will function perfectly well in and receive calls For those who are
Poland. However, mobile while abroad but travelling without a
phones supplied by providers in do not wish to be Wi-Fi sign Wi-Fi-enabled device,
the US may have only limited charged for use of the most hotels and
global coverage. Contact your Internet or other data, it is hostels have a computer
service provider prior to your possible to switch off the terminal in the lobby that can
trip for details. data roaming setting for the be used by guests. In addition,
To use your mobile phone duration of your stay and most Polish towns have at least
abroad, you will need to check continue using the telephone one Internet café (kafejka
with your provider that roaming functions as normal. Internetowa), offering
has been enabled. Remember
that you will be charged for Useful dialling codes and numbers
the calls you receive as well
as for the calls you make, and • For national (Polish) directory enquiries, dial 118 913.
that you may have to pay a • For international directory enquiries, dial 118 912.
substantial premium for the • To call overseas, dial 0 and wait for the tone; dial 0 again, followed
international leg of the call. by the country code and the area code (omitting the initial 0) and
To limit the cost of using a the subscriber’s number.
• Country codes: UK 44; Canada and USA 1; Eire 353; Australia 61;
mobile phone while in Poland,
South Africa 27; New Zealand 64.
you could purchase a SIM card
that uses a local mobile network
Television
Most hotel rooms will have a
TV offering a handful of Polish-
language stations and a choice
of German-, English-, Italian-
and French-language stations.
News channels like CNN or
BBC are more common than
entertainment or film channels.
Polish TV stations broadcast a
lot of English-language films
and drama, although these are
usually dubbed into Polish or
People using the Internet at a Krakow bar are narrated by just one person.
reasonable rates (around 10zł/ the larger newsagents and DIRECTORY

hour) for Internet use. See the bookshops in Poland’s major
Directory for the main ones. cities. The biggest choice is Internet Cafés
available from the EMPiK chain Gdańsk
of multimedia stores. Most Jazz ’n’ Java
Postal Services branches of EMPiK will stock Tkacka 17/18.
Post offices are usually international fashion and Tel 58 305 36 16.
prominently located in city lifestyle magazines, as well as a
centres and town squares. In the full range of Polish-language Krakow
Garinet
bigger cities, there publications.
ul. Floriańska 18.
are also branches The most
Tel 12 423 22 33.
throughout the important locally ∑ garinet.pl
suburbs. Post office produced English-
Hetmańska
opening hours are language titles are
Bracka 4.
usually 8am–6pm the travel and
Tel 12 430 01 08.
Monday to Friday. In lifestyle monthly ∑ hetmanska24.com
major cities there is Warsaw Insider,
Nandu
often a main post Post box the weekly news-
ul. Wiślna 8.
office that keeps oriented Warsaw Tel 12 421 03 26.
slightly longer hours (including Voice, and the economics ∑ nandu.pl
Saturday mornings). There are and finance-related Warsaw
also 24-hour branches in Business Journal. In Krakow, Warsaw
Warsaw (see Directory) and the monthly Krakow Post is N22
Krakow (ul. Lubicz 4). a good source of local news Aleje Jerozolimskie 54, lok. 22.
Tel 22 474 10 18.
At post offices you can buy and views and can be picked
stamps, send telegrams and up from many hotels and Postal Services
parcels, and arrange inter- restaurants free of charge.
national money transfers. A The New Poland Express is a DHL
poste restante (mail holding) very useful Internet-only Tel 42 634 51 00.
service is also available. Stamps resource in English. ∑ dhl.com.pl
can also be purchased from Krakow
selected newsagents. Main Post Office
Inland letters are delivered Westerplatte 20.
within 2 to 3 days, but
Warsaw
international mail takes about
Main Post Office
a week. Letters and cards sent
ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33.
by express service will arrive
sooner. Courier services – Newspapers and
available from the larger Magazines
post office branches, as well as
from DHL and other courier EMPiK
companies – are the fastest Warsaw, ul. Marszałkowska
but are very expensive. 116/122.
Krakow, ul. Floriańska 14.
∑ empik.com
Newspapers and
Magazines
Foreign newspapers and
magazines are available from A newspaper stand in Gdańsk
344 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
T R AV E L I N F OR M AT ION
Most main Polish cities have international car ferries are a good way of approaching
airports, and every region in the country can from Scandinavia and northern Germany.
be reached by air. The flexibility offered by Poland’s rail network is extensive, but station
budget airlines makes it easy to enter the infrastructure and train carriages are in
country at one airport and leave it from various states of modernization. Polish roads
another, enabling visitors to travel around are of mixed quality; modern highways link
more. Coaches from the UK and Western several cities, but slow, traffic-clogged roads
Europe run to virtually every Polish city; are more common.
Arriving by Air Domestic flights linking services: S2 to Warszawa

Poland is well connected with Warsaw with provincial Polish Zachodnia (Warsaw West) and S3
the rest of the world. As well cities are operated by LOT; to Warszawa Śródmieście (next to
as major airports, such as Eurolot offers internal flights Warsaw Central Station) and
Warsaw’s Chopin Airport and linking the main cities – and Warszawa Wschodnia (Warsaw
Krakow’s John Paul II Airport, without the need to change East). Both companies accept all
there are international airports planes in Warsaw. public transport tickets, including
at Katowice, Gdańsk, Poznań, single fare, short-term and
Łódź, Wrocław, Szczecin, unlimited ride. Tickets can be
Bydgoszcz and Rzeszów. Warsaw Airport purchased from newsstands and
Many of these are served Warsaw Chopin Airport, at ticket machines at the station.
by budget airlines from the Okęcie, 6 km (4 miles) north There are also bus services
UK and Western Europe. of the city centre, has just one between the airport and the city
The national carrier LOT terminal, Terminal A, which centre. Route 175 runs past
operates direct flights to handles both domestic and Warsaw Central Station and then
Warsaw and Krakow from international flights. Confusingly, along Krakowskie Przedmieście
the UK and North America. the check-in areas to the Old Town,
British Airways, Lufthansa, within the terminal while route 188 goes
Air France and Austrian are also designated to Praga Południe,
Airlines also fly to Warsaw by letter: A, B, C, D on the eastern side
from their home countries, and E. Terminal A Logo of LOT, the Polish of the Vistula river.
providing useful connections offers ATMs, a national airline Tickets can be
for travellers starting out in restaurant, cafés, car bought at news-
South Africa, Australasia or the hire desks and a tourist agents in town and at the airport,
Far East. Low-cost airlines – information office. or from the bus driver – although
easyJet, Wizz Air, Ryanair, A railway station beneath in this case the exact fare, plus a
Jet2, Eurolot and Terminal A links the airport to handling charge, is required.
Germanwings – offer a wide Warsaw city centre. Local trains Taxi services also run to
choice of flights to Poland’s run by Koleje Mazowieckie and from the airport and cost
international airports from travel to Warsaw Central Station about 80zł.
the UK and many Western (20 minutes). Municipal train
European cities. company SKM operates two
Krakow Airport
Situated 15 km (9 miles) west of
the city centre, Krakow-Balice
John Paul II Airport is modern
and easy to get around. ATMs
and car hire desks are in the
arrivals hall.
The airport is connected to
Krakow’s main railway station
(Kraków Główny) by train every
half-hour between about 5am
and 11pm. The journey takes
20 minutes. Tickets (10zł) can be
bought from the conductor on
board. The airport railway station
is 200 m (220 yards) from the
international terminal. Follow the
signs, or wait for the shuttle bus
The modern exterior of Chopin Airport, Warsaw that departs every 10–15 minutes.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 345
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air
Air France
∑ airfrance.co.uk
Austrian Airlines
∑ uk.austrian.com
British Airways
∑ britishairways.com
easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
The check-in area at Krakow’s John Paul II Airport
Eurolot
Two daytime bus routes (Nos. than tickets booked through ∑ eurolot.com
208 and 292) link the airport to travel agents or tickets booked Germanwings
the main railway station (a near to your date of travel. ∑ germanwings.com
journey time of 40 minutes), Low-cost airlines should
Jet2
running through parts of western be your first port of call if you ∑ jet2.com
Krakow, where several hotels are are looking for inexpensive
situated. Between 11pm and deals. Be aware, however, that LOT
5am, night bus No. 902 makes these airlines usually charge ∑ lot.com
the same journey. extra for each item of hold Lufthansa
The taxi journey into town luggage and add booking fees ∑ lufthansa.com
takes 20–30 minutes and costs dependent on what kind of
Ryanair
about 50zł (expect to pay more credit or debit card you use,
∑ ryanair.com
at night and weekends). driving up costs considerably.
Some airlines offer reductions Wizz Air
for children under 12. Children ∑ wizzair.com
Other Airports under 2 years old usually travel
Airports at Bydgoszcz, Gdańsk, free, providing they occupy Airports
Katowice, Łódź, Poznań, the same seat as the Krakow-Balice John Paul II
Szczecin, Rzeszów and Wrocław accompanying parent. Airport
all receive flights from the UK Tel 12 295 58 00 or 801 055 000.
and Western Europe, mostly run ∑ krakowairport.pl
by budget airlines. Arriving by Sea
Warsaw Chopin Airport
Gdańsk, Łódź, Poznań and The ports of Świnoujście and Tel 22 650 42 20.
Wrocław are popular city-break Gdynia have connections with ∑ lotnisko-chopina.pl
destinations; Bydgoszcz is close northern Germany and
to the medieval city of Toruń; Scandinavia. Stena Line Arriving by Sea
and Katowice is a convenient operates a service to Gdynia
gateway to south-central Poland. from Karlskrona in Denmark; Finnlines
Szczecin is a good entry point for Finnlines serves Gdynia from ∑ finnlines.com
the Baltic coast, and Rzeszów is a Rostock and Helsinki. Polferries Polferries
great springboard to the links Gdańsk with Nynäshamn, ∑ polferries.com.pl
mountains of the rural southeast. near Sweden’s capital
Stena Line
Gdańsk, Poznań and Wrocław Stockholm, while Świnoujście ∑ stenaline.nl
airports are close to their has a regular Unity Line
respective cities and have good connection with Ystadt, Unity Line
bus links. Szczecin, Katowice in southern Sweden. ∑ unityline.pl
and Rzeszów are a bit further For information on fares,
out, and connecting buses are visit the relevant website.
Ferry Ports
less frequent. Gdańsk
Tel 58 343 18 87.
Tickets and Fares Gdynia

Tel 58 660 92 00.
Prices vary greatly depending on
the time of year and how far in Świnoujście
advance you book. The peak Tel 91 321 61 12.
periods are Easter, June–August,
and the winter festive season.
Tickets booked direct from the
airline’s website a month or more
in advance are generally cheaper A POL ferry approaching the port of Gdańsk
346 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Train further down the scale you go.

Toilets on all but express trains
Poland’s rail network is comprehensive and links all major are usually in bad shape.
towns and cities. Many big-city railway stations are fully
modernized and feature clear, traveller-friendly signage. Tickets
A lot of stations in provincial Poland, however, lack Ticket counters in Polish railway
modern facilities and information displays. Trains are stations sell tickets for all trains,
run by a confusing number of different operators, but regardless of the operator.
the process of buying tickets is simple once you know However, tickets for one
where and when you want to go. Despite some sections operator will not be valid
of high-speed track between Warsaw and Gdańsk and on another operator’s train;
always state clearly which
Warsaw and Krakow, train travel is generally slow. service you want.
Fares on TLK, InterRegio,
RegioPlus and Regio trains
are reasonable, while the
PKP InterCity is much more
expensive due to the extra
speed and comfort provided. A
one-way ticket on the Warsaw–
Krakow PKP InterCity (a trip of
just under three hours) costs
100zł; the same trip on an
InterRegio train takes 3 hours
15 minutes and costs 50zł.
Teenagers and students up to
the age of 26 who hold valid
student cards are entitled to
An InterCity train travelling through the Polish countryside reduced fares (see p336).
Queues for tickets are often
Arriving by Train Suburban trains in the Warsaw long, so arrive early or book
Train services run between all region are run by Koleje your tickets the day before.
major European and Polish Mazowieckie, while fast city trains Credit and debit cards can be
cities. It is possible to travel from in Warsaw (SKM) are operated by used to pay for tickets in big-
London to Warsaw with Eurostar the municipal transport authority city stations but not in small
(changing at Brussels and (ZTM). The SKM suburban train is towns and villages. If you are
Cologne) in 18 hours, and from the main link between the coastal unable to buy a ticket in the
Paris (changing in Cologne) in settlements of the Tri-City station, report to the conductor
about 16. From Berlin there are (Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia). upon boarding the train and
fast trains to Poznań, Warsaw, PKP’s InterCity trains provide buy one from him. An additional
Wrocław and Krakow. Prague the fastest and most comfortable handling fee will be charged.
offers direct services to way to travel, with first- and
Katowice and Krakow, and second-class seating. Seat
there are overnight trains from reservations are obligatory and Sleepers and Couchettes
Budapest to both Warsaw and can be made at the time of Couchettes and sleeping cars
Krakow. From the east, there are purchasing the ticket. TLK, are provided on trains that
frequent overnight trains from InterRegio, RegioExpress and travel overnight between the
Moscow to Warsaw and from RegioPlus trains are not as fast as extreme north of Poland and
Kiev to Krakow. the InterCity (and InterRegio only the far south. A sleeping car
offers second-class seating), but has two or four beds in each
they are cheaper and allow the compartment. A couchette
Trains transport of bicycles. usually has six beds that can be
Most express inter-city PKP InterCity services offer a folded down during the day to
trains, including InterCity complimentary hot drink and form benches. Tickets for
and TLK services, are run a snack, and they also have a domestic sleepers and
by PKP. A number of other buffet car and trolley service. couchettes can be bought
express and fast trains, such Other trains do not always from all mainline stations.
as InterRegio, RegioExpress provide a buffet car, so you are It is wise to book them a few
and RegioPlus, are operated advised to buy refreshments days in advance. Sleepers and
by Przewozy Regionalne. before boarding. couchettes on international
This company also runs the PKP InterCity trains are trains can be booked from the
Regio trains, slow services modern and comfortable, but international ticket counter at
that stop at every station. carriage quality gets worse the railway stations.
Left Luggage
There is a charge for the left
luggage service – often a kind
of insurance, the price being
dependent on the declared
value of the luggage. Travellers
should, of course, make sure that
their luggage is fully insured
before travelling to Poland.
The larger stations have a
system of coin-operated
luggage lockers.
Kraków Główny, Krakow’s historic main railway station
Railway Stations Train Information DIRECTORY

In the larger cities, stations Arrivals (przyjazdy) and Trains
feature easy-to-read displays departures (odjazdy) are
PKP
with information and train clearly listed in the ticket ∑ intercity.pl/en
times, and there are lifts for hall of each station – arrivals
the disabled. Elsewhere in on a white background, Przewozy Regionalne
Poland, unmodernized stations departures on yellow. The type ∑ rozklad-pkp.pl
can often be disorienting, of train and the train operator
with confusing signage and are also clearly marked. Trains
Train Information
electronic display boards that marked with the letter R Deutsche Bahn
don’t work. require seat reservations. ∑ bahn.de
Train stations are badly lit Online timetables provided
Dworzec Polski
at night and signs may be by Dworzec Polski and ∑ rozklad-pkp.pl
illegible, so be extra careful Deutsche Bahn are excellent
not to miss your stop. sources of information.
The Polish Railway Network Key

Main route
Słupsk Gdynia
Kaliningrad Mariampol
Kołobrzeg GDAŃSK
Sopot Budzisko
Świnoujście Koszalin Elbląg
Tczew
Starogard Gd.
Malbork
Olsztyn Giżycko
Szczecinek Chojnice Ełk
SZCZECIN
Iława Ostróda Kuźnica
Pasewalk Białostocka Hrodna
Stargard
Szcz. Piła
Białystok
Bydgoszcz
Toruń
Kostrzyn Inowrocław
Berlin Gorzów Ciechanów Bielsk
Wlkp. Podlaski
Gniezno
Świecko Włocławek
POZNAŃ Połowce
Frankfurt
Konin
Kutno WARSAW Mińsk Maz. Terespol
Zielona
Góra Łowicz Siedlce
Brest
Leszno Kalisz Łuków Biała
ŁÓDŹ Skierniewice Podlaska
Głogów Ostrów Wlkp.
Zgorzelec Legnica Radom

Bautzen
Puławy Dorohusk
Lublin
Jelenia Góra WROCŁAW Skarżysko-
Chełm Ljubomil
Kamienna
Częstochowa
Wałbrzych Opole Kielce Kraśnik
Tarnobrzeg Vladimir
Kłodzko Zamość
Kędzierzyn-
Koźle Stalowa
Wola
KATOWICE Hrebenne
Boboszów
Racibórz Tychy KRAKOW Dębica
Rava
Prague
Rus’ka
Opava Oświęcim Tarnów Rzeszów
Medyka
Ostrava Bielsko- Przemyśl
Biała
Nowy Sącz Lviv
Nowy Targ
0 kilometres 150
Zakopane
0 miles 150
348 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Coach or Bus

Poland’s coach and bus network offers comprehensive
coverage of the country, and it is particularly useful in
rural areas not reached by the railways. Inter-city coaches
run between major centres on good roads, and they are a
viable alternative to express trains. Comfort in buses varies
enormously, with modern, air-conditioned coaches
increasingly common on the inter-city routes, and old
vehicles with sagging seats operating in rural areas.
websites providing departure

information; others have
barely decipherable timetable
boards that may not even be
properly updated.
The central bus station in
Warsaw, linked via a pedestrian Buses parked outside Warsaw’s bus station
tunnel to the Warszawa
Zachodnia (Warsaw West) eating and drinking
railway station, can be difficult opportunities, so buy food
to navigate, since the train and drinks before setting out.
platforms that take you into Bus timetables are
central Warsaw are badly extraordinarily complicated,
The modern interior of the bus station signposted. Other bus stations with a huge array of symbols
in Krakow are nearer their respective city denoting when the bus runs
centres, which may be only a (such as weekends or holidays).
Arriving by Coach walk or a short bus or tram ride Fast (pospieszny) buses, which
Most European countries have away. Many are next door to a carry a small supplement, are
coach connections with railway station, allowing easy marked in red; the slow ones
Poland’s major towns and cities. onward travel. Krakow bus are in black.
Often (especially if travelling station is linked to the main Tickets should be bought
from the UK or Western Europe), railway station’s platforms by in advance from the ticket
coach travel involves an underground tunnel, and it is counter. Ticket clerks in Krakow
overnight journey, which can be only a ten-minute walk from and other cities popular with
uncomfortable. Regular stops the main square. tourists are likely to speak
ensure that you can stretch your Most city coach stations have English, but staff outside these
legs, but a good night’s sleep is pay-to-use toilets, a left-luggage areas do not always speak
probably out of the question. office, newsagents, simple cafés foreign languages; write down
Poland itself is a big country, and an ATM. The smaller the your required destination and
and if you are aiming for a city town, the less likely it is that departure time on a piece of
in central or eastern Poland, the these facilities will be available. paper to avoid misunder-
journey from Western Europe The central bus station in standings. Bus station ticket
can be gruelling indeed. Warsaw is poorly equipped with counters are unlikely to accept
However, travelling by coach traveller facilities and has limited debit or credit cards.
is usually much cheaper than
travelling by air or rail.
Eurolines offers routes from
all major European cities.
International coach tickets can
also be bought from Polish
agencies Jordan and Sindbad.
Coach Stations
Coach stations in Poland vary
widely – Krakow, for instance,
has a modern, well-signposted
terminal, while many other
cities have old-fashioned, badly
lit stations. Some have good A coach parked outside the bus station at Szczecin
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Coach
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.com
Jordan
Tel 12 421 21 25.
∑ jordan.pl
Sindbad
Tel 12 429 69 11.
The vibrant livery of PolskiBus ∑ sindbad.krakow.pl
Coaches aware that before 8am and in Coaches

Coach travel in Poland used to the afternoon, local buses may Dworzec Autobusowy
be run by the state-owned PKS be crowded. When planning to w Krakowie (MDA)
organization. This has now been visit a small town or village, it Tel 07 03 40 33 40.
fragmented into regional is best to check local bus ∑ mda.malopolska.pl
companies, many of which still connections in advance, since
PolskiBus
use the initials PKS in their timetables at more remote
∑ polskibus.com/en
name. There are also many bus stops are often vandalized
private coach companies and unreadable. Tourist offices
running a multitude of both are frequently the best sources
inter-city and rural services. The of timetable information in Wieliczka and Niepołomice
bigger firms running popular small towns. (see p168). Tickets, which cost
routes are likely to have approximately twice the fare of
modern, air-conditioned a standard public transport
coaches, although coach quality Minibuses ticket, can be purchased directly
can be unpredictable whatever Minibus services providing from the driver.
route you are travelling on. both long- and short-distance Minibuses are also used on
Some companies (such as connections run in many towns long-distance inter-city routes
PKS Poznań and PKS Białystok) and tourist spots in Poland, and as a faster alternative to
are introducing fast luxury provide an extremely cheap and coaches. Due to the limited
coaches with free Wi-Fi on convenient way of getting number of seats, minibuses fill
their much-patronized Warsaw- about locally. up quickly, and it is not always
bound routes. Tickets can be Minibuses are particularly possible to get a seat in the
purchased online from the useful in the tourist areas of service of your choice. If the
operator’s website, at the coach the Tatra Mountains, where minibus is departing from a
terminal or from a travel agent. regular services from Zakopane main bus station, it will be
PolskiBus, the coach (see p170) and Szczawnica (see possible to buy tickets in
equivalent of a budget airline, p173) take hikers to beauty advance – otherwise, it is
sells inter-city tickets cheaply spots and trail heads. Minibuses advisable to arrive early and
over the Internet. PolskiBus are also well organized in hope for the best. Minibuses
coaches have steward/ Krakow, where services depart are speedy little vehicles, and
stewardess service and free from the main railway station they will not suit travellers
Wi-Fi, but they pick up and (or nearby) and serve most who are claustrophobic or
drop off in suburban car parks neighbouring villages, including prone to travel sickness.
rather than main bus stations.
Dworzec Autobusowy w
Krakowie (MDA) provides
coach timetable information
in Krakow.
Local Buses
Buses are frequently the only
means of travelling to small
towns and villages not included
on the Polish railway network.
Rural bus services are very
reliable and punctual, but the
buses themselves are often old
and uncomfortable. Tickets are
available from the driver. Be A typical bus stop in Gdańsk
350 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Car maps. Regional roads running

between major centres can be
Poland is a big country involving large distances, and busy, while those in rural areas
roads still vary widely in terms of quality. The number of are often pleasant and relaxing
fast inter-city highways is increasing, and travel times to drive on. Minor roads are not
numbered and are much more
between the major centres are getting shorter. Away from unpredictable in terms of quality.
the main highways, however, progress can be slow, with
columns of traffic building up on popular routes. Road
surfaces in general are improving, although rural routes Regulations
may be bumpy. Car crime is a worry but can be easily The wearing of seat belts is
guarded against by parking in secure garages and compulsory. Children under
the age of 12 are not allowed
removing your valuables from the vehicle. to travel in the front of the car,
and small children must be
strapped into special child
seats. Headlights must be on,
day and night, regardless of
the weather conditions.
The national speed limit in
built-up areas is 50 km/h (30
mph) between 5am and 11pm,
and 60 km/h (35 mph) between
11pm and 5am; on roads it is
90 km/h (55 mph), and on
motorways it is 110 km/h
(68 mph). Radar speed controls
are frequent, and offenders will
be given an on-the-spot fine.
The use of mobile phones
A road leading into the city of Krakow while driving is banned unless
the phone is a hands-free
Arriving by Car Roads model. The permitted alcohol
The big cities of western Poland Poland’s main inter-city content in blood is so low in
– plus Warsaw and Krakow – are highways (autostrady; denoted Poland that drinking and driving
easily reached via Germany by the letter A) provide fast travel should be avoided altogether
thanks to the German Autobahn along the country’s main east– (see p338).
network and Poland’s own west and north–south corridors,
stretches of fast with the city of
motorway. There Łódź at the centre Parking
is also a good fast of the network. Parking regulations vary from
road from Prague Not all of the city to city. There is an
to Katowice and Signpost indicating traffic diversion highways are increasing number of parking
Krakow. If you complete, so travel garages, especially in or near
enter Poland from the south from one major city to another
or the east, though, travel is may involve long stretches of
on single-lane roads and highway interspersed with
progress is slow. sections of single-lane road. The
most complete stretches of
highway run from the German
What You Need border through Wrocław and
Drivers in Poland need to Katowice to Krakow, and from
have the following items: a the German border to Poznań
current driving licence, a then Warsaw.
sticker denoting the country Most other main cross-
in which the car is registered, country routes are classified as
the original certificate of expressways (drogi ekspresowe;
insurance, and a red warning denoted by the letter S); these
triangle in the boot. UK are largely single-lane affairs.
drivers should also affix Road surfaces on expressways
headlight converters. are good, but traffic can build
Foreign drivers from outside up. Poland’s regional trunk roads
the EU are also required to carry (drogi krajowe) are numbered
a green card. from 1 to 94 and labelled red on Parking meter in Krakow
DIRECTORY
Breakdown Services
National Emergency Road
Service
Tel 96 37.
Car Hire
Avis
Krakow, ul. Lubicz 23.
Tel 601 200 702.
A breakdown van at a garage in Gdańsk Warsaw Airport.
Tel 22 650 48 72.
shopping mall developments petrol stations in the ∑ avis.pl
just outside city centres. countryside may close at Europcar
In central Warsaw there are 6pm or for the weekend. Gdańsk Airport.
parking meters in operation, Tel 58 348 12 22.
as well as many car parks where Krakow Airport.
you pay a fee to an attendant, Breakdown Services
Tel 12 257 79 00.
although the car park is If your car breaks down, the
Warsaw Airport.
unguarded. National Emergency Road
Tel 22 650 25 64.
In the main streets of Service will send help to the ∑ europcar.pl
Gdańsk and Gdynia, coin- scene – usually within 1 hour of
operated parking meters your call, but quicker if you are Hertz
have been installed. near a major urban area. Fees Krakow, al. Focha 1.
Central Wrocław and Poznań for their services depend on Tel 12 429 62 62.
have a system of parking cards, where you are and what the Warsaw Airport.
which are available fault is, so it is Tel 22 650 28 96.
from newsagents; the recommended that ∑ hertz.com.pl
driver circles the date you take out full Joka
and time of parking breakdown insur-
Gdańsk Airport.
and places the card ance. The website Tel 58 320 56 46.
in the windscreen. www.pomoc-
Krakow, ul. Zacisze 7.
In Krakow, most drogowa.pl has
Tel 601 545 368.
of the Old Town is contact telephone
Warsaw, ul. Okopowa 47.
a no-parking zone numbers for car
Tel 22 636 63 93.
for non-residents, mechanics in each
although there are Warsaw town sign region of the country. Wrocław Airport.
usually a limited Tel 71 781 81 88.
∑ joka.com.pl
number of spaces available for
hotel guests. Elsewhere in Car Hire
Krakow, a system of parking All major international car rental
cards similar to that in place in companies – including Avis, pleasure. The rolling lake-
Wrocław and Poznań applies. Europcar and Hertz – operate speckled countryside east
Illegally parked cars are prone in Poland, as well as the Polish of Olsztyn, taking in waterside
to clamping. Details of where to firm Joka. It is best to book a settlements such as Mikołajki,
pay the fine and get the clamp particular make of car before Giżycko and Węgorzewo, is
removed will be posted on the your arrival. Key conditions are an ideal introduction to
windscreen. a valid full driving licence and a northeastern Poland –
minimum age of 21 (or 25, although take note that
depending on the company). this area can be busy on
Petrol Before signing the rental summer weekends. A highlight
In big cities and on major roads, agreement, it is also advisable of the southeast of the country
finding a 24-hour petrol station to check the level of insurance is the Bieszczady Mountains
is not a problem. In addition to cover provided. Travellers would Tour (see pp174–5), which
selling fuel and car accessories, be wise to take out adequate takes in bucolic villages and
petrol stations usually have insurance independently. wooded valleys. South of
shops. Those outside towns also Krakow, the Pieniny mountain
have bars where travellers can trail (see pp172–3), taking in
have a coffee or a hot meal. Great Drives Sczawnica, Krościenko,
Drivers planning journeys to Poland is a largely rural country Czorsztyn and Niedzica,
rural areas, however, should fill and driving away from the involves castles, subalpine
up in advance because most main cities can be a great meadows and lakes.
352 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling within Cities Most municipal buses stop at

every stop, although there are
On account of its size, Warsaw is the one city in Poland some express routes (often
where exploring everything on foot is not an option. marked with a red route
Luckily, the capital has a well-integrated metro, tram, number) that stop at key
points only.
bus and suburban train network. Other Polish cities are
compact and easy to walk around, with the occasional tram
or bus ride helping you to reach outlying sights. Cycling is a Metro
popular way of getting around; facilities for cyclists are The Warsaw metro, the only
improving, and bike hire establishments are more and more urban underground rail network
in Poland, consists of two lines:
widespread. Taxis are widely available and inexpensive.
Line 1 (north–south) and Line 2
(east–west). The latter is only
partially open and will be
Green Travel are in good order, though extended in future. Line 2 is
Polish cities suffer from traffic visitors might come across a particularly handy way of
congestion and a shortage of the occasional uneven paving getting from the city centre
parking spaces. If possible, stone and crumbling kerb. to the Praga district, on the
refrain from adding to this east bank of the river.
pressure on the local infra- The metro is safe, clean and
structure. Electric-powered Trams and Buses punctual. Entrances are marked
trams and municipal trains are In most Polish cities, public by a stylized red M on a yellow
the cleanest forms of public transport consists of an background. Stations have lifts
transport. Krakow, Gdańsk integrated network of trams for disabled people.
and other Polish cities are and buses. In major conur-
increasingly bike-friendly, and bations such as Warsaw,
local authorities throughout the Krakow, Katowice and Łódź,
country are trying to extend the trams represent the best way
number of cycle lanes in busy of covering long cross-town
areas. In Krakow, the electric- distances. The PST in Poznań
powered meleks vehicles is a super-fast tram line that
available for hire on the Main speeds its way across the city.
Market Square provide an Krakow and other cities are
emissions-free alternative to investing in similarly fast tram
hiring a taxi; rickshaw drivers in lines. Some of the smaller cities
Łódź provide a similar service. (such as Lublin, Olsztyn and The clean interior of a Warsaw
Białystok) do not have trams, metro station
and the municipal bus system
Walking is much more prominent.
Most Polish cities can be easily Daytime services usually run Tickets
explored on foot. Warsaw, from just before 5am until 11pm. Each city has an integrated
Krakow, Gdańsk and Poznań Night buses, which run in big ticketing system of its own,
boast pedestrianized Old Towns cities, operate between 11pm in which tickets valid for trams
with clearly displayed tourist and 5am. Tram and bus stops are are also valid for buses (and, in
signage. Parks are a major feature clearly marked by signs bearing the case of Warsaw, the metro
of the urban scene: the Saxon tram or bus pictograms. Route too). Although in some cases
Gardens in Warsaw and the and timetable information is tickets can be bought from a
Planty Park in Krakow provide a usually displayed at each stop. tram or bus driver, it is far
relaxing way of strolling from Trams always stop at every stop, better to buy them in advance.
one part of the city to another. although you may have to press Tickets are available from
The streets in most Polish cities a button to open the doors. newspaper kiosks and coin-
operated machines placed
beside tram stops; in Warsaw,
they can also be bought at
metro stations. The tickets are
then validated by punching
them in a machine located just
inside the entrance of the bus
or tram. On the Warsaw metro,
tickets should be punched
before crossing the yellow line
that divides the ticket hall from
Colourful trams in Krakow the platforms.
DIRECTORY
Trams and Buses
Krakow
Tel 12 191 50.
∑ mpk.krakow.pl
Poznań
Tel 61 646 33 44.
An official taxi waiting for a fare in Gdańsk
∑ ztm.poznan.pl
Random checks are carried out in airports or railway stations Warsaw

by ticket inspectors – plain- should be ignored, since their Tel 22 19 115.
clothes officials wearing a charges may be several times ∑ ztm.waw.pl
conspicuous badge. Passengers the official rate. Wrocław
travelling without a valid Tel 71 321 72 71.
punched ticket are often fined ∑ komunikacja.iwroclaw.pl
on the spot. Fines are usually Driving
several times the price of a Driving in city traffic is stressful, Cycling
normal single fare. and it is wise to use alternative
Bike Trip
Most cities price their tickets ways of getting around. In
Zwierzyniecka 10, Krakow.
according to a zonal system; addition, it can be difficult to
Tel 667 712 054. ∑ biketrip.pl
tickets for zone one (the city find a parking space in big cities,
centre) tend to be adequate for although hotels sometimes Eccentric Bike Rental
most sightseeing visitors. Single- have parking spaces for guests. ul. Grodzka 2, Krakow. Tel 12 430
journey tickets cost 4.40zł in 20 34. ∑ krakowbiketour.com
Warsaw, less in other cities. In Krakowskie Rowery Miejskie
Warsaw, Krakow and some other Cycling Krakow. ∑ kmkbike.pl
cities, cheaper single tickets for Polish cities are increasingly bike-
Locoemotion
journeys that only last 15–20 friendly, with a growing number Pl. Teatralny 5, Wrocław.
minutes are also available. Most of cycle lanes and signed cycle Tel 725 762 126.
cities offer 24-hour, routes in Warsaw,
2-day and 3-day Krakow and many Maltabike
tickets that offer very other cities. Green al. Jana Pawła II, Poznań.
good value for money spaces around Tel 48 510 316 118.
∑ maltabike.pl
if you plan on using Krakow and coastal
public transport for cycle paths near Rowerownia
the majority of your Gdańsk are perfect ul. Fieldorfa 11/3, Gdańsk.
stay. Family tickets, for easy cycling. In Tel 58 320 61 69.
offering a day’s travel Veturilo logo urban zones, cycling ∑ rowerownia.gda.pl
for two adults and two on the pavement is Veturilo
children, are also available. permissible in areas where bike ul. Przasnyska 6b, Warsaw.
Children under the age of four lanes do not exist, which means Tel 22 382 13 12/244 13 13.
and senior citizens over 70 that cyclists don’t have to ∑ en.veturilo.waw.pl
usually travel free of charge. dodge traffic. However, cyclists
Wygodny Rower
on pavements should always ul. Smolna 10, Warsaw.
give way to pedestrians. Bike Tel 787 386 386.
Taxis rental outlets are easy to find ∑ wygodnyrower.pl
Taxi ranks can be found at in Krakow and are becoming
railway and bus stations, as well popular in other cities as well.
as at the main entrances to
pedestrianized zones in city
centres. Flagging down taxis
on the street is rarely possible,
and it’s best to go to a rank or
order a taxi by phone.
Most taxi journeys are
metered, although you may
be able to negotiate a fee if
you are going a particularly
short or long distance.
Private taxis, which do not
display a company name and
phone number, should be
avoided. Similarly, taxi touts Visitors on rental bikes in Krakow
354 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Architecture (cont.) Baltic coast 19, 25, 112, 237, 256, 257,
main entries 17th-century 51 258, 263, 269
18th-century 53 Bamberg 221
A Baroque 28 Bandura, Jerzy, Monument to the
Abbeys effects of Partition rule on 22 Battle of Grunwald (Grunwald) 288
Benedictine (Grudziądz) 273 Gothic 26–7, 47 Bank of Poland (Warsaw) 93
Benedictine (Legnickie Pole) 185 Historicism 29 Banks 340
Benedictine (Sieciechów) 124 Mannerist 27, 28, 49 Banquet (Chwistek) 87
Benedictine (Święty Krzyż) 157 Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Housing Barańczak, Stanisław 31
Benedictine (Tyniec) 151 Estate (Wrocław) 203 Baranów Sandomierski 27, 49, 159
Cistercian (Chełmno) 274 Modernist 29, 196, 223 Barbican (Krakow) 12, 47, 139
Cistercian (Henryków) 204 Museum of Architecture (Wrocław) Barbican (Warsaw) 12, 66, 69, 73
Cistercian (Kamieniec Ząbkowicki) 204 196 Barczewo 287
Cistercian (Koprzywnica) 26, 45 Neo-Classical 29 Baroque
Cistercian (Mogiła) 151 Polish Society of Architects (Gdańsk) architecture 28
Cistercian (Pelplin) 272 249 literature 30
Cistercian (Sulejów) 26, 45, 233 Renaissance 27 Barth, Wilhelm, Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245
Cistercian (Wąchock) 26, 45, 158 Romanesque 26, 230–1 Bartolini, Lorenzo 128
Academic Grammar School (Gdańsk) Traditional 29 Baryczkowski Crucifix 72
252 Arkadia 121 Basilicas see Churches
Academies Arp, Hans 235 Bath House (Busko Zdrój) 161
Academy of Dramatic Arts (Warsaw) Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245 Batory, Stefan 49, 61
90 Arsenal (Warsaw) 92 Battle of Grunwald (Matejko) 86
Academy of Fine Arts (Krakow) 139 Arsenal (Zamość) 130 Battles
Academy of Fine Arts (Toruń) 278 Art Cecora 50
Academy of Sciences (Krakow) 55 Academy of Fine Arts (Toruń) 278 Grunwald 46–7, 126, 139, 217, 288
Arian Academy (Leszno) 216 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) Legnica 185
Chełmno Academy 274 140–1 Racławice 195
European Academy (Krakow) 151 folk art 95, 168, 197 Vienna 50, 51, 72, 82, 91, 103
Polish Academy of Sciences (Warsaw) Painted Cottage competition Warsaw 56
81, 84 (Zalipie) 168 Baudarth, Paul, calvary (Kalwaria
Admission prices 334 religious art 201, 225, 229, 261 Zebrzydowska) 167
Affaita, Izydor, Capuchin Church shopping for 321 Baumann, Fryderyk 179
(Warsaw) 91 socialist realism 128 Bay, Karol
Agricola, Karol Ludwik, Łazienki Palace see also Art Deco; Art Nouveau; Church of St Martin (Warsaw) 73
(Warsaw) 100 Museums and galleries Church of the Visitation (Warsaw) 83
Agriculture 23 Art Deco 85 Bażanka, Kacper
Ahorn, Andrzej, Jesuit church (Piotrków Art Nouveau 28, 29 Church of Saints Peter and Paul
Trybunalski) 233 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) (Krakow) 142
Aigner, Christian Piotr 140–1 Piarist Church (Krakow) 140
Church of St Anne (Warsaw) 81 houses at Krynica 172 Beautiful Madonna (Gdańsk) 245
Łańcut Palace 179 Jama Michalika (Krakow) 140 Beautiful Madonna (Wrocław) 86
Namiestnikowski Palace (Warsaw) 82 Józef Mehoffer Museum (Krakow) Będzin 211
Air travel 344–5 141 castle 26, 45
Albrecht of Prussia 204 Krakow Franciscan Church 142 Behem, Baltazar 48
Alcohol 34 Leopold Kinderman Villa (Łódź) 234 Beinhardt, Jakub, Poznań Cathedral 224
shopping for 322, 325 Museum of Mazovia (Płock) 118 Belarus 36, 292, 295
Aleksander of Płock 120 Natural History Museum (Wrocław) Belloti, Giuseppe (Józef ) Simone 75
Alexander I (the Jagiellonian) 61, 99 202 Carmelite Church (Warsaw) 82
Altmark 50 Wilam Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 276 Church of the Holy Cross (Warsaw) 83
Amber Arthur, King 250 Church of St Anne (Warsaw) 81
goods and jewellery 237, 243, 325 Artus Court (Gdańsk) 13, 247, 248, 249, Ład church 227
museum (Gdańsk) 248 250 Mother of God of Passau (Warsaw) 82
shopping for 321, 325 Asam, Cosmas Damian, Church of St Berg, Max, People’s Hall (Wrocław) 202
Amberg, George von, Dukes’ Castle Jadwiga (Legnickie Pole) 185 Berlin 260
(Legnica) 185 Asnyk, Adam 149 Bernadoni, Giovanni Maria, church
Angevin Dynasty 60 ATMs 340 (Kalwaria Zebrzydowska) 167
Anna of Mazovia 75, 77, 81 August II 52, 61, 85, 99, 121, 128 Bernhuser, Church of St Nicholas
Anna Vasa of Sweden 275, 276 ashes of 91 (Elbląg) 285
Antiques 322, 323 August III 53, 61, 70, 91, 216 Berrecci, Bartolomeo 133
Antonin 233 Augustów 293 Royal Castle (Krakow) 27, 146
hotels 302 Canal 292–3 tomb of Zygmunt the Old (Krakow)
Apengheter, Johann, Cathedral of St hotels 305 149
Mary (Kołobrzeg) 263 lakelands 281 Zygmunt Chapel (Krakow) 27
Apollo and the Solar System (S. restaurants 317 Berzevicy family 172
Wyspiański) 139 Auschwitz (Oświęcim) 13, 14, 166 Beskid Culture Week 39
Appiani, Galeazzo, Krasiczyn Castle 176 Austria 22, 43, 54, 56, 57, 153, 210 Beskid Niski 18, 19
Aquarium Gdyńskie (Gdynia) 269 Austro-Prussian war 193 Beskid Sądecki 19
Archaeology Autumn in Poland 40 Beskid Śląski 166, 182
Archaeological Gala (Biskupin) 40, 226 Beskid Żywiec 167
Archaeological Museum (Warsaw) 92 B Beuys, Joseph 235
Archaeological Museum (Wrocław) Babia Góra 24 Bezprym, Duke 60
197 Bacciarelli, Marcello 71, 137 Białobrzegi 293
“Lost Wawel” exhibition (Krakow) 145 Baczyński, Krzysztof Kamil 93 Białowieża National Park 15, 25, 295
Ostrów Lednicki 226 Bähr, Andreas Adam, Church of the restaurants 317
Architecture 26–9 Holy Spirit (Toruń) 278 Białystok 20, 28, 294
16th-century 49 Balcerowicz, Leszek 59 architecture 53
GENERAL INDEX 355
Białystok (cont.) Bralin 233 Castles (cont.)

hotels 305 Brandenberg 257, 265 Bolków 190
restaurants 318 Brandenberg, Barbara von 193 Brzeg 193
Białystok Region see Warmia, Mazuria Brandt, Jósef 123 Bytów 27, 265
and Białystok Region Brandt, Willy 97 Chęciny 156
Biebrza National Park 293 Branicki, Jan Klemens 91, 294 Chełm 129
Biebrza (river) 19, 281, 292, 293 Branicki family 294 Chojnik (Sobieszów) 188
Biecz 172 Braniewo 285 Ciechanów 119
Bielany 151 Brda (river) 275 Czersk 122
Bieliński, Franciszek 85 Breakdown services 351 Czoch 187
Bieliński, Michał 128 Brenna, restaurants 314 Czorsztyn 172
Bielsko-Biała 166 Bretysław, Prince 224, 229 Darłowo 264
Bierut, Bolesław 61 Bristol hotel (Warsaw) 80 Dębno near Brzeska 169
Bieszczady Mountains 15, 19 Britain 58 Gdańsk (Wisłoujście Fortress) 13, 255
Bieszczady Mountains Tour 174–5 Brochów 120 Giżycko (Boyen Castle) 291
hotels 303 Brokoff, Ferdinand Maximilian, Abbey Głogów 184
restaurants 314 Church of St Mary (Krzeszów) 189 Gniew 27, 272–3
Bieszczady National Park 174 Bronze Age 192 Golub-Dobrzyń 275
Birkenau 13, 166 Brotherhood of St George 279 Gołuchów 232
Biron, Peter 184 Brühl, Henryk 216 Grodziec 186
Biskupin 226 Brunsberg, Heinrich 225 Iłża 123
festivals 40 Cathedral of St James (Szczecin) Janowiec 124
Biskupski, Mirosław 97 260 Jawor 186
Bismark, Otto von 192 Church of St Mary (Stargard Kamieniec Ząbkowicki 204
Bison 262, 295 Szczeciński) 262 Karpień 207
Black Madonna (Częstochowa) 21, 37, Brzeg 182, 193 Kazimierz Dolny 125
153, 162, 163, 244 Brzesko, restaurants 314 Kętrzyn 289
Blank, Piotr 93 Brzezinka (Birkenau) 166 Kłodzko 207
Błędowska Desert 165 Budget travel 336, 337 Kołobrzeg 263
Blocke, Abraham van den Budyń, Jacek, Monument to the 1944 Kórnik 215, 217
Artus Court (Gdańsk) 250 Warsaw Uprising 76 Krakow (Royal Castle) 13, 26, 27, 45,
Church of the Holy Trinity (Gdańsk) 252 Bug (river) 295 49, 133, 144, 145, 146–7
Golden Gate (Gdańsk) 248 Bukowina Tatrzańska 331 Krasiczyn 113, 176
Golden House (Gdańsk) 250 Bunker of Arts (Krakow) 141 Krzywcza 176
Blocke, Izaak van den Buonaccorsi, Filippo 46 Książ 191
Church of St Catherine (Gdańsk) 242 Bureaux de change 340 Książ Wielki 49
Main Town Hall (Gdańsk) 249 Buses 348–9, 352, 353 Kurozwęki 160
Blocke, Willem van den Busko Zdrój 161 Kwidzyn 273
Highland Gate (Gdańsk) 248 Bydgoszcz 275 Łagów castle 216
tomb of the Kos family (Oliwa, Bystrzyca Kłodzka 207 Łęczyca 235
Gdańsk) 254 Bytom 211 Legnica 185
ORP Błyskawica (floating museum) 269 Bytów 27, 257, 265 Lidzbark Warmiński (Bishops’ Castle)
Bniński, Andrzej 225 restaurants 318 286
Bniński, Ignacy 226 Bzura (river) 19 Liw 122
Bobolice 26, 45, 164 Łowicz 120
Bóbr (river) 184, 186 C Lublin 46, 127
Bóbrka 173 Calisia 232 Malbork 10, 15, 27, 257, 270–1, 279
Bochotnica 125 Calvary (Kalwaria Zebrzydowska) Mirów 164
Bodzentyn 157 167 Morąg 286
Bogurodzica (The Mother of God) 30 Camping 301 Nidzica 288
Bogusławski, Wojciech 93 Canaletto 71, 90 Niedzica 155, 172
Bohemian Brethren 216 Canals Niepołomice 168
Bohoniki 294 Augustów 292–3 Nowy Wiśnicz 169
Bol, Chrystian, Piarist Church (Krakow) Elbląg 280, 285 Odrzykoń (Kamieniec Castle) 173
140 Motława 252 Ogrodzieniec 26, 165
Bolesław II 60 Raduna 240–2 Oleśnica 193
Bolesław III 44, 60, 81, 118 Canavesi, Girolamo, Chapel of the Holy Olsztyn 45, 164, 287
Bolesław IV 60 Cross (Poznań) 224 Pieskowa Skała 164, 165
Bolesław V 60, 122, 133 Canoeing 331 Pińczów 161
Bolesław Chrobry (the Brave) 44, 60, Czarna Hańcza and Augustów Canal Piotrków Trybunalski 233
225, 229 292–3 Płakowice 187
Bolko I 189, 191, 192 Canova, Antonio 92 Poznań (Przemysław Castle) 222
Bolko II 188, 189 statue of Henryk Lubomirski 178 Przemyśl 176
Bolków 190 Canteens 306 Pułtusk 119
Bona Sforza, Queen 48, 119, 168 Car rental 351 Reszel 288
Bonadura, Cristoforo (the Elder), Car travel 350–1 Ryn 290
Church of St Joseph (Poznań) 223 Carpathian Mountains 24 Rytwiany 160
Bonifacio, Giovanni Bernardo 252 Carreras, José 326 Rzeszów 177
Bookshops 321, 323 Castelli, Matteo, Royal Castle (Warsaw) Sandomierz 159
Warsaw 95 70 Słupsk 264
Borecka Forest 295 Castles Stare Drawsko 263
Born, Max 194 Baranów Sandomierz (Leszczyński Świny 190
Borowo, restaurants 318 Castle) 159 Szczecin 260, 261
Boruta 235 Będzin 26, 45, 211 Szydłów 160
Botanical Gardens (Wrocław) 201 Bielsko-Biała 166 Szydłowiec 123
Botticelli, Sandro, Virgin and Child 86 Bobolice 26, 45, 164 Toruń 279
Boyks 174 Bochotnica 125 Trzy Korony 173
356 GENERAL INDEX
Castles (cont.) Chapels (cont.) Churches (cont.)

Ujazd (Krzyżtopór Castle) 28, 50–1, 158 Lorentine (Gołąb) 124 Church of the Assumption (Chełmno)
Warsaw (Royal Castle) 12, 28, 29, 51, Martyrs’ (Sandomierz) 159 274
68, 70–1 Mausoleum of the Silesian Piasts Church of the Assumption
Warsaw (Ujazdowski) 98 (Legnica) 185 (Grodzisko) 165
Wieliczka 168 Mennonite (Gdańsk) 37 Church of the Assumption (Kalisz) 232
Zagórze Śląskie (Grodno Castle) 192 Myszkowski (Krakow) 137 Church of the Assumption (Lwówek
Żywiec 167 Oleśnicki (Holy Cross Mountains) 157 Śląski) 187
Catenaci, Jan Oleśnicki (Tarłow) 50 Church of the Assumption (Nysa) 205
Church of St Joseph (Poznań) 223 Oświęcim (Krosno) 173 Church of the Assumption (Żagań) 184
Church of Saints Mary Magdalene Potocki (Gniezno) 228 Church of the Assumption of the
and Stanisław (Poznań) 221 Raczyński Mausoleum (Rogalin) 219 Blessed Virgin (Sieciechów) 124
Leszno parish church 216 Royal (Gdańsk) 51, 245 Church and Convent of the Poor
Cathedrals Royal (Płock) 118 Clares (Bydgoszcz) 275
Chełmża (Holy Trinity) 275 St Anne (Gdańsk) 252 Church of Corpus Christi (Biecz) 173
Drohiczyn 295 St Anne (Malbork) 271 Church of Corpus Christi (Głogów) 184
Frombork 279, 281, 284, 286 St Anne (Pińczów) 161 Church of Corpus Christi (Krakow) 13,
Gdańsk (Oliwa) 254–5 St Elizabeth (Ostrów Tumski) 201 150
Gniezno (Assumption) 228–9 St Gertrude (Darłowo) 264 Church of the Discalced Carmelites
Kalisz (St Nicholas) 232 St Jadwiga (Trzebnica) 193 (Przemyśl) 176
Kamień Pomorski 262, 263 St Kinga (Wieliczka salt mine) 168 Church of the Discalced Carmelites
Kielce 156 St Margaret (Krakow) 150 (Zagórz) 175
Kołobrzeg (Virgin Mary) 263 Zbaraski (Krakow) 137 Church of the Exaltation of the Holy
Krakow (Wawel) 13, 45, 49, 51, 133, Zygmunt (Krakow) 27, 49, 148, 149 Cross (Góra Kalwaria) 123
144, 145, 148–9 Charles XII of Sweden 82 Church of Grace (Cieszyn) 210
Kwidzyn 273 Chęcińsky, Sylwestr 187 Church of the Heart of Jesus (Poznań)
Legnica (Sts Peter and Paul) 185 Chęciny 156 220
Łomża 293 Chełm 129 Church of the Holy Cross (Jelenia
Lublin (Sts John the Baptist and John restaurants 311 Góra) 190
the Evangelist) 126 Chełmno 27, 274–5 Church of the Holy Cross (Leszno)
Olsztyn (St James) 287 map 274 216
Opole (Holy Cross) 210 Chełmowa Góra 157 Church of the Holy Cross (Ostrów
Pelplin (Virgin Mary) 51, 272 Chełmża 275 Tumski) 198, 200
Płock (Our Lady) 118 Children Church of the Holy Cross (Poznań) 222
Poznań 224–5 in hotels 300 Church of the Holy Cross (Rzeszów)
Przemyśl 176 travelling with 336, 337 177
Sandomierz 159 Chinatown 30 Church of the Holy Cross (Warsaw)
Świdnica (Sts Stanisław and Chlewiska 123 65, 81, 83
Wenceslas) 191 Chmielnicki Uprising 50 Church of the Holy Cross (Żywiec)
Szczecin (St James) 260, 261 Chmielno 268 167
Tarnów (Nativity of the Virgin Mary) Chochołów 170 Church of the Holy Name of Jesus
169 Chopin, Fryderyk 32, 55, 233 (Wrocław) 194, 195
Toruń (Sts John the Baptist and John birthplace 120 Church of the Holy Sacrament
the Evangelist) 278–9 heart of 65, 81, 83 (Warsaw) 74
Warsaw (Field Cathedral of the Polish monument (Warsaw) 100 Church of the Holy Spirit (Toruń) 278
Armed Forces) 91 museum (Warsaw) 84 Church of the Holy Spirit (Warsaw)
Warsaw (St John) 12, 68, 72 Chorzów 211 74, 75, 104
Wrocław (St John the Baptist) 11, 199, Christmas 21, 41 Church of the Holy Trinity (Gdańsk)
200–1, 208–9 Chronos (Le Brun/Monaldi) 71 252
Wrocław (St Mary Magdalene) 26, 196 Churches Church of the Holy Trinity (Radzyń
Zamość 130 Abbey Church of St Mary (Krzeszów) Podlaski) 129
Catherine the Great 52, 121 189 Church of the Holy Trinity (Strzelno)
Caves Basilian church (Warsaw) 90 230
Bear’s Cave (Kletno) 207 Basilica of the Holy Cross and the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed
Paradise Cave (near Chęciny) 156 Nativity of the Virgin Mary Virgin Mary (Ciechanów) 119
Cecilia Renata of Austria 123 (Częstochowa) 36, 163 Church of the Nativity of the Virgin
Cęckiewicz, Witold, monument to the Basilica of St Jacob and St Agnieszka Mary (Żywiec) 167
Battle of Grunwald (Grunwald) 288 (Nysa) 205 Church of Our Lady (Inowrocław) 231
Cecora, Battle of 50 Benedictine church (Drohiczyn) 295 Church of Our Lady (Jelenia Góra) 190
Central Industrial Region 57 Benedictine church (Lubomierz) 187 Church of Our Lady Victorious
Centre for Contemporary Art (Warsaw) Benedictine church (Mogilno) 230 (Lublin) 126
98 Bernardine Basilica (Leżajsk) 177 Church of Our Saviour (Krackw) 150
Ceramics 323 Bernardine church (Dukla) 173 Church of Peace (Jawor) 186
Ceroni, Carlo Bernardine church (Kalwaria Church of Peace (Świdnica) 37, 191
Capuchin Church (Warsaw) 91 Zebrzydowska) 167 Church of the Polish Brethren
Church of the Holy Spirit (Warsaw) 75 Bernardine church (Poznań) 222 (Raków) 160
Cerveny Kláśtor 173 Bernardine church (Radom) 123 Church of the Presentation of the
Cetniewo 265 Bernardine church (Rzeszów) 177 Virgin Mary (Wadowice) 167
Chalk mines (Chełm) 129 Bodzentyn church 157 Church of St Adalbert (Poznań) 223
Chałupy 265 Brochów church 120 Church of St Alexander (Warsaw) 85
Chapels Camaldolite church (Rytwiany) 160 Church of St Andrew (Krakow) 142
Blessed Virgin (Krakow) 145 Capuchin church (Łomża) 293 Church of St Anne (Krakow) 12, 141
Chapel of Skulls (Kudowa Zdrój) 206 Capuchin church (Lublin) 126 Church of St Anne (Warsaw) 12, 80, 81
Firlej (Lublin) 126 Capuchin church (Warsaw) 90, 91 Church of St Anthony (Braniewo) 285
Golden (Poznań) 225 Carmelite church (Warsaw) 80, Church of St Anthony (Warsaw) 99
Holy Cross (Poznań) 224 82 Church of St Barbara (Krakow) 137
Holy Trinity (Lublin Castle) 46, 127 Church of the Annunciation Church of St Bernard of Siena
Hungarian (Krakow) 149 (Ciechanów) 119 (Wrocław) 196
Jaszczurówka (wooden chapel) 29 Church of the Annunciation (Kalisz) Church of St Bridget (Gdańsk) 241,
Last Supper (Częstochowa) 163 232–3 242
GENERAL INDEX 357
Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.)

Church of St Brother Albert and St Church of Sts John the Baptist and Kodeń church 28
Andrew (Warsaw) 93 Bartholomew (Kazimierz Dolny) 125 Ląd church 227
Church of St Catherine (Braniewo) 285 Church of Sts Mary Magdalene and Leszno church 216
Church of St Catherine (Gdańsk) 239, Stanisław (Poznań) 221 Lubelszczyzna church 27
241, 242 Church of Sts Nicholas and Martin Miłków church 188
Church of St Catherine (Krakow) 26, (Bydgoszcz) 275 Mirów parish church 161
149 Church of Sts Peter and Paul Mount Ślęża 192
Church of St Clare (Wrocław) 195 (Chełmno) 274 Na Pólku (Bralin) 233
Church of St Elizabeth (Wrocław) 197 Church of Sts Peter and Paul Nowy Wiśnicz parish church 169
Church of St Florian (Krakow) 139 (Duszniki Zdrój) 206 Orthodox church (Drohiczyn) 295
Church of St George (Kętrzyn) 289 Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Krakow) Orthodox church (Równia) 174
Church of St Giles (Ostrów Tumski) 142–3 Otmuchów parish church 205
199 Church of Sts Peter and Paul Parish church of Corpus Christi (Biecz)
Church of St Hyacinthus (Słupsk) 264 (Lidzbark Warmiński) 286 172
Church of St Jacek (Warsaw) 74, 76 Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Nysa) Parish church of John the Baptist
Church of St Jacob (Piotrków 205 (Legnica) 185
Trybunalski) 233 Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Pułtusk) Parish church of St Michael the
Church of St Jadwiga (Bolków) 190 119 Archangel (Dębno Podhalańskie) 171
Church of St Jadwiga (Legnickie Pole) Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Reszel) Parish church of St Stanisław
185 288 (Rydzyna) 216
Church of St James (Chełmno) 274 Church of Sts Peter and Paul Pauline church on the Rock (Krakow)
Church of St James (Sandomierz) 159 (Szczecin) 260, 261 149
Church of St James (Toruń) 279 Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Żagań) Piarist church (Chełm) 129
Church of St John (Gniezno) 229 184 Piarist church (Krakow) 140
Church of St John (Paczków) 205 Church of Sts Stanisław and Adalberg Piarist church (Łowicz) 121
Church of St John (Szczecin) 261 (Rzeszów) 177 Piarist church (Piotrków Trybunalski)
Church of St John the Baptist Church of Sts Wenceslas, Stanisław 233
(Chełmno) 274–5 and Dorothy (Wrocław) 197 Pilgrimage church of St Anne (Góra
Church of St John the Baptist Church of the Virgin Mary (Elbląg) 285 Świętej Anny) 210
(Łagów) 216 Church of the Virgin Mary (Legnica) Premonstratensian church (Krakow)
Church of St John the Baptist (Reszel) 185 150
288 Church of the Virgin Mary (Toruń) Protestant church (Lidzbark
Church of St John the Evangelist 276, 277 Warmiński) 286
(Oleśnica) 193 Church of the Visitation (Warsaw) 80, Protestant church (Rydzyna) 216
Church of St Joseph (Gdańsk) 240 83 Psalter (Poznań) 225
Church of St Joseph (Krzeszów) 189 Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Radom parish church 123
Church of St Joseph (Morąg) 286 Mary (Warsaw) 75, 77 Rotunda of St Nicholas (Cieszyn) 210
Church of St Joseph (Poznań) 223 Cistercian (Henryków) 204 Rotunda of St Procopius (Strzelno)
Church of St Joseph (Warsaw) 80 Cistercian Basilica (Lubiąż) 184 230
Church of St Kazimierz (Warsaw) 74, 77 Collegiate church (Dobre Miasto) Tum church 45, 235
Church of St Maciej (Wrocław) 195 284, 286 Tykocin parish church 294
Church of St Marguerite (Nowy Sącz) Collegiate church (GłogóW) 184 Uniate church (Posada Rybotycka)
171 Collegiate Church (Klimontów) 159 176
Church of St Martin (Jawor) 186 Collegiate church (Łowicz) 120–1 Uniate church (Przemyśl) 176
Church of St Martin (Krakow) 142 Collegiate church (Nowy Sącz) 171 Uniate Orthodox churches 153
Church of St Martin (Warsaw) 68, 73 Collegiate church (Opatów) 48, 158 Węgrów 122
Church of St Martin (Wrocław) 200 Collegiate church (Pułtusk) 49, 119 wooden church (Karpacz) 189
Church of St Mary (Darłowo) 264 Collegiate church (Środa see also Abbeys; Cathedrals; Chapels;
Church of St Mary (Gdańsk) 13, 47, Wielkopolska) 217 Collegiate churches
244–5 Collegiate church (Tum) 26 Chwistek, Leon, Banquet 87
Church of St Mary (Jawor) 186 Collegiate church (Wiślica) 45, 161 Ciążeń 227
Church of St Mary (Krakow) 12, 47, Convent of the Old Believers Cichocki, Edward, pump room
136, 138–9 (Wojnowo) 36 (Ciechocinek) 275
Church of St Mary (Malbork) 270 Czerwińsk basilica 117, 120 Ciechanów 119
Church of St Mary (Poznań) 225 Dębno (wooden) church 26 Ciechocinek 275
Church of St Mary (Słupsk) 264 Dominican church (Krakow) 137 Cieplice 188, 190
Church of St Mary (Stargard Dominican church (Lublin) 126 Cieszyn 210
Szczeciński) 262 Dominican church of Sts Jacek and festivals 39
Church of St Mary (Złotoryja) 186 Dorothy (Piotrków Trybunalski) 233 restaurants 314
Church of St Mary on Piasek Evangelical church of the Augsburg Cinema 30, 31
(Wrocław) 198, 200 Confession (Warsaw) 94–5, 142 “Etiuda” International Film Festival
Church of St Nicholas (Bielsko-Biała) Evangelical Reform church (Warsaw) (Krakow) 40
166 36 Festival of Film Stars (Międzyzdroje)
Church of St Nicholas (Brzeg) 193 Franciscan church (Drohiczyn) 295 39
Church of St Nicholas (Elbląg) 285 Franciscan church (Krakow) 12, 55, 142 Festival of Films for Children and
Church of St Nicholas (Głogów) 184 Franciscan church (Krosno) 173 Youth (Poznań) 41
Church of St Nicholas (Gniew) 272 Franciscan church (Mirów) 161 Kanał 57, 58
Church of St Nicholas (Grudziądz) 273 Franciscan church (Opole) 210 Łagów film festival 216
Church of St Nicholas (Zamość) 130 Franciscan church (Poznań) 222 Museum of Cinematography (Łódź)
Church of St Peter (Kruszwica) 231 Franciscan church (Zamość) 131 235
Church of St Roch (Białystok) 294 Gołąb church 124 music for 33
Church of St Stanisław Kostka Góra Kalwaria parish church 123 Polish Feature Film Festival (Gdynia)
(Warsaw) 98 Jesuit church (Brzeg) 193 40
Church of St Vincent (Wrocław) 195 Jesuit Church (Piotrków Trybunalski) Sami swoi 187
Church of St Władysław (Szydłów) 233 Short Film Festival (Krakow) 38
160 Jesuit church (Przemyśl) 176 Summer Film Festival (Łagów) 39
Church of St Wojciech (Krakow) 136 Jesuit church (Święta Lipka) 282 Warsaw Film Festival 40
Church of Sts Erasmus and Pancras Jesuit church (Warsaw) 68, 73 Cini, Bernadino Giovanni, Renaissance
(Jelenia Góra) 190 Kalisz church 27 cathedral (Płock) 118
358 GENERAL INDEX
City Hall Tower (Krakow) 137 Czartoryski, Adam 55, 232 Drohiczyn 295
Cleve, Joos van 222 Czechoslovakia 46, 58, 194, 210, 224 Drwęca (river) 275
Climate 38–41, 334 Czechowicz, Szymon Dukla 173
Clinton, Bill 59 Carmelite Church (Warsaw) 82 Dunajec (river) 15, 155, 172–3
Cloth Hall (Krakow) 12, 33, 113, 133, Church of St Anne (Krakow) 141 Dunajec Dam 172
135, 136, 137 St Francis of Sales (Warsaw) 83 Dunikowski, Xawery
Clothes, shopping for 322 Czerniaków (Warsaw) 99 monument to the Silesian uprising
Coach travel 348–9 Czerniejewo 226 (Góra Świętej Anny) 210
Codex Behem 48 Czersk 84, 122–3 museum (Królikarnia Palace) 99
Coffin portraits 35, 224 Czerwińsk on the Vistula 26, 45, 117, Dürunger, Hans, Astronomical Clock 244
Collegium Iuridicum (Krakow) 142 120 Duszenko, Franciszek, monument at
Collegium Maius (Krakow) 12, 45, 47, Częstochowa 21, 36–7, 50, 75, 153, Treblinka 122
141 162–3 Duszniki Zdrój 206
Collegium Nobilium (Warsaw) 52, 90 hotels 303 festivals 39
Colonel Michael (J. Hoffman) 30 restaurants 314 Dziaduski, Jan, tomb of 176
Commonwealth of Two Nations 115 Czoch Castle 187 Działyński, Jan 217, 232
Communications 342–3 Czorsztyn 172 Działyński, Tytus 217
Communism 23, 57, 58, 59, 126
fall of 22
D Dziekoński, Jósef Pius, statue of Adam
Mickiewicz (Warsaw) 82
Congress Kingdom 115 da Subiaco, Venante, Rytwiany Dzierżyński, Feliks 93
Congress of Vienna 115, 213 monastery 160 Dziwna (river) 263
Conrad, Joseph 269 da Vinci, Leonardo, Lady with an Ermine Dziwnów 263
Constantine, Prince 99 140
Constitution of 3 May 53, 70 Dąbrówka, Princess 228 E
Consulates 337 Daisy, Princess 211 Eagles’ Nests Trails 164–5
Convents Dalitz, Fryderyk Rudolf, organ (Oliwa Easter 21, 38, 176
Convent and Church of St Catherine Cathedral) 254 Ebhardt, Bodo, Czoch Castle (Sucha) 187
(Krakow) 149 Damart, Berhold, Gate of Prussian Eckstein, Franz, Piarist Church (Krakow)
Convent of the Old Believers Homage (Szczecin) 260 140
(Wojnowo) 36, 286 Dąmbski, Stanisław, Palace of the Economy 22–3, 56, 58
Convent of the Order of the Holy Bishops of Kujawy (Toruń) 278 Edward Island 217
Sacrament (Warsaw) 74 Dankwart, Karl Eggerth, Marta 32
Convent of the Order of St Clare Church of the Assumption (Nysa) 205 Elbląg 23, 285
(Dębno Podhalańskie) 171 Jasna Góra (Częstochowa) 162, 163 hotels 305
Grabarka Orthodox convent 295 Dar Pomorza (floating museum) 269 Elbląg Canal 280, 285
Premonstratensian convent Darłowo 264
Electrical appliances 337
(Imbramowice) 165 hotels 305
Elimelech, tomb of (Leżajsk) 177
Copernicus, Nicolaus 47, 48, 141, 279, Davisson, Daniel G. 241
Embassies 337
286 De Revolutionibus Orbium Celestium
Emergencies 338–9
birthplace of 276 (Copernicus) 48, 279
Emigration 54, 55
Copernicus House (Toruń) 278 Deanery (Krakow) 143
Enlightenment 30, 286
diagram of equinox (Olsztyn) 287 Dębiński, Jakub 169
Entertainment 326–31
monument to (Toruń) 277 Dębno near Brzeska 169
classical music 327, 329
Museum (Frombork) 284 Dębno Podhalańskie 26, 171
festivals, concerts and reviews 328
statue of (Warsaw) 81, 84 Decjusz, Justus Ludwik 151
Decjusz Villa (Krakow) 150–1 folk music 327
Corazzi, Antonio
Grand Theatre (Warsaw) 93, 104 Delacroix, Eugene 32 information 326
Plac Bankowy (Warsaw) 93 The Deluge (Potop) 50, 51 nightclubs 329
Staszic Palace (Warsaw) 84 Department stores 320, 323 opera and ballet 327, 329
University of Warsaw 83 Deposition of Christ (Chomranice) 47 rock, jazz and country music 328, 329
Coronations 228 Deutscher Ostmarkenverein 222–3 sport and leisure 330–1
Corpus Christi 21, 39, 121, 167 Deutscher Werkbund 203 street markets 328
Coudray, Pierre, monument to Stefan Deybel, Jan Zygmunt (Sigismund) theatres 326–7, 329
Czarnecki 294 Branicki Palace (Białystok) 294 ticket sales 326, 329
Counter-Reformation 227, 285, 289 Branicki Palace (Warsaw) 91 tournaments 328
Country music 328 Przebendowski-Radziwiłłow Palace venues 326
Cranach, Lucas (the Elder) 205 (Warsaw) 92 see also Festivals; Music; Theatre
Madonna with Christ Child and St Dialling codes 342 Erik of Pomerania 264
Catherine 159 Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz, Abbey Ernst, Max 235
Credit cards 340 Church of St Jadwiga (Legnickie Ethnographical exhibitions
in shops 320 Pole) 185 District Museum (Jelenia Góra) 190
Cricot 2 (theatre group) 143 Disabled travellers 336 Ethnographic Museum (Toruń) 279
Cricoteka (Krakow) 143 in hotels 300, 301 Ethnographical Museum (Warsaw) 95
Crime 338, 339 Długosz, Jan 159, 161 Ethnographical Museum (Wrocław)
Crocław, Around Central Wrocław Dobre Miasto 284, 286 197
202–3 Dobryczy 232 Maritime Museum (Szczecin) 261
Croy, Anna de 264 Dolabella, Tomasso, The Birth of Christ 150 Museum of Central Pomerania
Croy, Bogusław de 264 Dollinger, Michał, Potocki Palace (Słupsk) 264
Cultural Information Centre (Krakow) (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Museum of Warmia and Mazuria
326, 329 Dorazil, Anton, Abbey Church of St (Olsztyn) 287
Curie, Marie 55, 76 Mary (Krzeszów) 189 Regional Museum (Stargard
Currency 56, 320, 340–1 Dorothy of Mątowy 273 Szczeciński) 262
Customs information 334–5 Drahle 294 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park
Cycling 330 Drawskie Lakes 262–3 (Chorzowa) 211
in cities 353 Dresden 28 Etiquette 335
Czarna Hańcza (river) 292–3 Dreyer, Johann Benjamin, Uphagen Euro 2012 23, 59
Czarnecki, Stefan 294 House (Gdańsk) 249 European Academy (Krakow) 151
Czarnolas 124 Driving 350–1 European Union 23, 59
Czarny Potok 172 in cities 353 Exhibition of Living and Working Space
Czartoryska, Izabella 125, 140, 217, 232 see also Tours 203
GENERAL INDEX 359
F Festivals (cont.) Forests (cont.)

Fabritius, Carel, The Raising of Lazarus 87 International Song Festival (Sopot) 39 Białowieża 25, 281, 295
Falconi, Giovanni Battista International Street Art Festival Borecka 295
Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Wrocław) 195 Knyszyńska 281, 295
(Krakow) 142 International Street Theatre Festival Niepołomice 168, 295
Łańcut Palace 178 (Jelenia Góra) 39 Pszczyna 210
Oświęcim Chapel (Krosno) 173 Jazz Jamboree (Warsaw) 40 Suwalszczyzna 283
FAMA (Świnoujście) 39 Jazz on the Oder (Wrocław) 38 Świętokrzyski 157
Farms see Agritourism Jewish Culture Festival (Krakow) 39 White 119
Fatum (Dunikowski) 99 Konfrontacje Theatre Festival (Lublin) Wolin 262
Feast of the Assumption 39 40 Fortifications
Fellner & Helmer 179 Kontakt Theatre Festival (Toruń) 38, Braniewo 285
Fellner, Ferdinand, Wilam Horzyca 276 Elbląg (Brama Targowa) 285
Theatre (Toruń) 276 Lemk Cultural Festival (Gorzów Gdańsk (Wisłoujście Fortress) 13, 255
Ferrari, Pompeo Wielkopolski) 40 Gniew 272
Church of the Holy Cross (Leszno) Lithuanian All Saints’ Day (Punsk) 40 Krakow (The Wawel) 144, 145
216 Malta - International Theatre Festival Łagów 216
Church of Saints Mary Magdalene (Poznań) 39 Lwówek Śląski 186
and Stanisław (Poznań) 221 Midsummer’s Night 39 Nidzica 288
Ład church 227 Mozart Festival (Warsaw) 39 Paczków 204–5
Leszno town hall 216 New Year 41 Przemyśl 176
Potocki Chapel (Gniezno) 228 Olsztyn Summer Arts Festival 287 Szydłów 160
Ferrata, Ercole 201 Orthodox Church Music Festival Zamość 131
Ferries 345 (Krakow) 41 see also Castles; Towers
Festivals 38–41, 328 Paka Cabaret Review (Krakow) 38 Fountains
All Saints’ Day 21, 40 Passion Plays (Kalwaria Pacławicka) Neptune (Gdańsk) 247, 250
All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival (Krakow) 40 176 Proserpine (Poznań) 221
Archaeological Gala (Biskupin) 40, Piknik Country (Mrągowo) 39 Frączkiewicz, Antoni, Church of St
226 Polish Feature Film Festival (Gdynia) Anne (Krakow) 141
Barbórka 41 40 Frankenberg family 186
Beskid Culture Week 39 St Martin’s Day 40 Frantz, Karl Martin
Borderlands Theatre Festival (Cieszyn) Short Film Festival (Krakow) 38 Parish Church of St Stanisław
39 Singing Poetry Festival (Olsztyn (Rydzyna) 216
Chamber Music Days (Łańcut) 38 Castle) 39 Rydzyna palace 216
Chopin Festival (Duszniki Zdrój) 39 Summer Film Festival (Łagów) 39 Franz Josef 54, 55
Christmas 21, 41 Topienie Marzanny 38 Franz Josef Enters Krakow (Kossak) 55
Corpus Christi 21, 39, 121, 167 Viking Festival (Wolin) 39, 262 Franze, Martin, Church of the Holy
Days of Julian Tuwim (Łódź) 40 Warsaw Autumn 40 Cross (Jelenia Góra) 190
Dominician Fair (Gdańsk) 39 Warsaw Film Festival 40 Fredro, Aleksander 31, 197
Easter 21, 38, 176 World Festival of Youth (Warsaw, Revenge 173
End of Carnival 41 1955) 58 Friedrich Wilhelm IV 189
Epiphany 41 Wratislavia Cantans (Wrocław) 40 Frombork 279, 281, 284, 286
“Etiuda” International Film Festival Wrocław Guitar Festival 195 Frycz, Karol, Jama Michalika (Krakow)
(Krakow) 40 Wrocław International Guitar Festival 140
FAMA (student arts) (Świnoujście) 39 40
Feast of the Assumption 21, 39, 167 Złota Tarka Traditional Jazz Festival G
Feast of St Mary Gromniczna 41 (Iława) 39 Gałczyński, Konstanty Ildefons 121, 290
Festival of Film Stars (Międzyzdroje) Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) Gall Anonim 30, 231
39 140–1 Galleries see Museums and galleries
Festival of Folk Bands and Singers Fiorentino, Francisco, Royal Castle Gameren, Tylman van 28, 133
(Kazimierz Dolny) 39 (Krakow) 146 Branicki Palace (Białystok) 294
Festival of Polish Piano Music (Słupsk) Firlej family 124, 126 Capuchin Church (Warsaw) 91
40 Fisherman’s Sea Pilgrimage 39 Church of the Holy Cross (Rzeszów)
Festival of Polish Song (Opole) 39 Flemming family 263 177
Festival of Science (Warsaw) 40 Flooding 59, 172 Church of the Holy Cross (Warsaw)
Festival of Stage Songs (Wrocław) 38 Folk traditions 153 83
Festival of Student Song (Krakow) 40 art 168, 279 Church of St Anne (Krakow) 141
Festival of Theatre Schools (Łódź) 38 folklore 32 Church of St Anthony (Warsaw) 99
Fishermen’s Sea Pilgrimage (Puck) 39 music 32, 33, 39, 327 Church of St Kazimierz (Warsaw) 77
Głogów Jazz Meeting (Głogów) 40 Fontaine, Pierre, Raczyński Library Gniński-Ostrogski Palace (Warsaw)
Holy Week 167 (Poznań) 222 84
Independence Day (Warsaw) 40 Fontana, Baldassare Kotowski family tomb (Warsaw) 76
International Ballet Festival (Łódź) Church of St Andrew (Krakow) 142 Krasiński Palace (Warsaw) 92
234 Church of St Anne (Krakow) 141 Łazienki Palace (Warsaw) 100
International Book Fair (Warsaw) 38 Convent of the Order of St Clare Nieborów palace 121
International Festival of Alternative (Dębno Podhalańskie) 171 Pac Palace (Warsaw) 92
Theatre (Krakow) 40 Fontana, Giacopo, Branicki Palace Piarist church chapel (Łowicz) 121
International Festival of Films for (Warsaw) 91 Royal Chapel (Gdańsk) 51, 245
Children and Youth (Poznań) 40 Fontana, Giuseppe Gardecki, Józef, Old Theatre (Krakow)
International Festival of Sea Shanties Kozłówka Palace 128 140
(Krakow) 41 Potocki Palace (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Garden cities 203
International Festival of Song (Sopot) Fontana, Paolo, Piarist church (Chełm) Gardens see Parks and gardens
269 129 Gaschin-Gaszyński family 210
International Jazz Jamboree Food and drink Gates
(Warsaw) 58 Flavours of Poland 308–9 Brama Wysoka (Lidzbark Warmiński)
International Labour Day 38 shopping for 322, 323 286
International Organ festival (Kamień street food 307 Częstochowa monastery gates 163
Pomorski) 39 vegetarian 307 Florian Gate (Krakow) 139, 140
International Poster Biennial Forests 24 Gate of the Church of St Giles
(Warsaw) 38 Augustów 281, 292 (Ostrów Tumski) 199
360 GENERAL INDEX
Gates (cont.) Gockhaller, Kasper, tombs of the de Gucci, Santi (cont.)

Gate of Prussian Homage (Szczecin) Croy family 264 tomb of Zygmunt August (Krakow) 149
260, 261 Godebski, Cyprian, statue of Adam tombs of Modliszewski family
Golden Gate (Gdańsk) 13, 236, 246, Mickiewicz (Warsaw) 82 (Łomża) 293
248 Goes, Hugo van der 205 Gucwińscy, Antoni and Hanna 202
Golden Gate (Malbork) 270 Gołab 124 Guidi, Domenico, tomb of Cardinal
Green Gate (Gdańsk) 247, 250 Gold-panning (Złotoryja) 186 Frederyk (Wrocław) 201
Grudziądz Gate (Chełmno) 274 Golden Age (16th century) 48–9 Gulf of Gdańsk 265
Highland Gate (Gdańsk) 13, 246, 248 Zamość 130 Gułtowy 226
Krakow Gate (Lublin) 126 Golden Lion pharmacy (Toruń) 279 Gurawski, Jerzy, crypt of the Church of
Marchian gate (Łagów) 216 Golub-Dobrzyń 275 St Adalbert (Poznań) 223
Mariaka Gate (Gdańsk) 243 Gołuchów 232 Gurowski, Władysław 220
Opatów Gate (Sandomierz) 159 Gombrowicz, Witold 31 Gutenberg Bible 272
Polish gate (Łagów) 216 Gomółka, Mikołaj 32 Gütschoff family 187
Vasa Gate (Krakow) 145 Gomułka, Władysław 58
Wrocławska (Oleśnica) 193 Gonzaga, Maria Louisa 83, 250 H
Gay and lesbian travellers 336 Góra Kalwaria 123 Habg-gliding 330
Gdańsk 14, 23, 37, 112, 236–55, 257, 265 Góra Świętej Anny 210 Habsburg, Bishop Karol 205, 210
Along Raduna Canal 240–1 Górecki, Henryk 33 Habsburgs 167, 181, 185, 194, 210
Church of St Mary 244–5 Göring, Hermann 151 Haffner, Jean Georges 269
Długu Targ and Długa 246–7 Górków family 224 Hahn, Hermann 241, 255
ferries 345 Górniak, Edyta 326 Coronation of the Virgin (Pelplin) 272
festivals 39 Gorseński, Augustyn 232 The Lord’s Blessing (Gdańsk) 240
getting around 238, 352–3 Góry Kamienne Mountains 189 Hakata 222
history 59 Góry Stołowe (Table Mountains) 206 Hakenterrasse (Szczecin) 260
hotels 304 Gorzanów 207 Hammerschmidt, Felix Anton, Church
map 238–9 Gorzeński, Andrzej Ostroróg 227 of Sts Peter and Paul (Nysa) 205
Oliwa Cathedral 254–5 Gorzów Wielkopolski, festivals 40 Handicrafts 324–5
parking 351 Gothic architecture 26–7, 47 shopping for 321
restaurants 317 Gotland, Hans, Cathedral of Saints John Handke, Cristoph 194
Two Days on Gdańsk 13 the Baptist and Evangelist (Toruń) 278 Hans Henry XV von Pless 191
Gdańsk Crane 13, 112, 237, 243, 251 Grabarka 21, 281, 295 Hanseatic League 237, 249, 250, 257,
Gdańsk Shipyard 241, 251 Grabki Duże 160–1 260, 262
Gdynia 13, 23, 56, 237, 265, 269 Grabowno, restaurants 311 merchants’ houses 278, 285
ferries 345 Graff, Ignacy Harklowa 173
festivals 40 Church of St Stanisław (Rydzyna) 216 Haupt, Adam 122
hotels 305 Gułtowy palace 226 Hauptmann, Gerhard 188
parking 351 Granaries Health 338–9
restaurants 318 Bydgoszcz 275 Health resorts
Germany 43 Gothic Granary (Toruń) 278 Iwonicz Zdrój 173
apology for events of World War II 76 Grain Warehouse (Gdańsk) 251 Karpacz 189
German population 20, 21, 36 Grudziądz 273 Kołobrzeg 263
German-Polish trade war 56 Grand Duchy of Warsaw 54 Międzyzdroje 262
Kaiser District (Poznań) 222–3 Grand Hotel (Sopot) 269 Rymanów 173
occupation of Poland 21, 56, 57, 93, Great Depression 56 Sopot 269
96, 97, 119, 120, 127, 150, 166, 168, Great Mazurian Lakes 24, 290–1, 331 Szczawnica 173
220, 242, 269, 275 Great Mill (Gdańsk) 240, 242 Hel 265
territory 213, 257, 281, 289 Greater Poland see Wielkopolska restaurants 318
Warsaw Pact 82 Green travel 352 Hel Peninsula 265
Gestapo 92 Grey Ranks 92 Helenka (Wyspiański) 143
Ghetto Uprising (Warsaw) 57, 93, 97 Grochowicz, Stanisław 85 Helmer, Hermann, Wilama Horzyca
Gianbattista of Venice Grodno 192 Theatre (Toruń) 276
Barbican and City Walls (Warsaw) 73 Grodziec 186 Hempl, Stanisław 203
cathedral (Płock) 118 Grodzisko 165 Henry I 60, 192, 204
collegiate church (Pułtusk) 49, 119 Groeben, Otto Frederick von 273 Henry II 60, 185
Gianotis, Bernardino de, tomb of Anna Gross, Friedrich, Cathedral of St Mary Henry IV 44, 60, 195, 200
Szydłowiecki 158 Magdalene (Wrocław) 196 Henry of Valois 61
Gibson, John, Psyche carried by Zephyrs Gross-Rosen 192 Henryk the Bearded see Henry I
179 Grot, Bishop Jan 123 Henryków 204
Gierek, Edward 58 Grudziądz 273 Heraldry 35
Gierłoz 289 Grunenberg, Gustav, Tumski Bridge Herbert, Zbigniew 31
Gierymski, Maksymilian 54 198 Hercules’ Club 165
Giorgiolo, Francesco Antonio, Church Grunwald 288 Hercules Fighting the Centaur (Szczecin)
of St Anthony (Warsaw) 99 Grunwald, Battle of 46–7, 126, 139, 288 260
Giżycko 291 inscriptions at Kórnik Castle 217 Herder, Johann Gottfried von 286
hotels 305 Grunwaldski Suspension Bridge Herle, Simon, Main Town Hall (Gdańsk)
Glaciers 24 (Wrocław) 201 249
Glasswork 188, 190, 323, 325 Gryfici Dynasty 257, 261 Herring Stalls (Legnica) 185
Glinka, Mikhail 93 Gryfitów, Gedka z 158 Herzog, Richard 76
Gliwice 211 Gubałówka, Mount 170–1 Hetzel, Henryk, Church of St Mary
restaurants 314 Gucci, Matteo, Old Synagogue (Gdańsk) 244
Głodówka 170 (Krakow) 150 Heurich, Jan (Junior), Kozłówka Palace
Głogoczów-Dwor, restaurants 314 Gucci, Santi 128
Głogów 23, 184 Deanery (Krakow) 143 Hevelius, Johannes 241, 242
festivals 40 Książ Wielki castle 49 Hiking 330
Glotau, Hans, St George’s Court Leszczyński Castle (Baranów Czarna Hańcza and Augustów Canal
(Gdańsk) 248 Sandomierz) 159 292–3
Gniew 27, 272–3 Pińczów castle 161 Eagles’ Nests Trails 164–5
Gniezno 43, 44, 213, 228–9, 230 tomb of Mikołaj and Zofia Mniszech Karkonosze Mountains 188
hotels 302 (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Kłodzko Valley 206
GENERAL INDEX 361
Hiking (cont.) Hotels 298–305 Iławski Morąg 286

Międzygórze 207 chains 298 Iłża 123
Sudeten Mountains 181 children in 300 Imbramowice 165
Wolin 262 disabled travellers in 300 Ina (river) 262
Zagórz 174 discounts 299 Independence 54, 56–7, 58
Zakopane 170 facilities 299 Independence Museum 92
Hildebrandt, Johann Lucas von 196 Gdańsk 304 Industry 22, 118
Hill of St Adalbert (Poznań) 223 hidden extras 299 Central Industrial Region 57
Hindenburg, Paul von 288 Krakow 303 commercial centre (Poznań) 220
Historic buildings Małopolska 303–4 engineering 285
Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245 manor houses 298 glassware 190
Arsenal (Warsaw) 92 Mazovia and Lublin Region 302–3 grain and timber 237, 252, 273, 275
Arsenal (Zamość) 130 Pomerania 305 jewellery 237, 243, 321, 325
Artus Court (Gdańsk) 13, 247, 248, reservations 298–9 metalworks 23
249, 250 Silesia 303–4 mining 23, 157, 168, 185, 211
Barbican and City Walls (Warsaw) 66, Warmia, Mazuria and Białystok nationalization 58
69, 73 Region 305 oil 173
Barbican (Krakow) 47, 139 Warsaw 302 Poznań International Trade Fair 223
Bunker of Arts (Krakow) 141 websites 301 textiles and clothing 172, 190, 234,
By the Quail’s Nest House (Legnica) Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) 302–3 235, 285
185 Houses trade routes 177
Calvary (Kalwaria Zebrzydowska) 167 “At the Sign of the Donkey” (Krakow) Upper Silesian Industrial Region 211
Cloth Hall (Krakow) 33, 113, 135, 136, 142 see also Museums
137 “At the Sign of the Lizards” (Krakow) Inowrocław 231
Collegium Iuridicum (Krakow) 142 137 Insurance 339
Cricoteka (Krakow) 143 “At the Sign of the Singing Frog” Internet access 342–3
Deanery (Krakow) 143 (Krakow) 142 Iron Age 226
Eagle Pharmacy (Krakow) 150 Białystok country mansion 28 Isserles, Mojżesz 150
Gdańsk Crane 13, 112, 243, 251 By the Quail’s Nest House (Legnica) Italy 54
Golden Lion pharmacy (Toruń) 279 185 Itineraries 10–15
Grain Warehouse (Gdańsk) 251 Celej House (Kazimierz Dolny) 125 Two Days on Gdańsk 13
Great Mill (Gdańsk) 240, 242 Copernicus House (Toruń) 278 Two Days in Krakow 12–13
Herring Stalls (Legnica) 185 Decjusz Villa (Krakow) 150–1 Two Days in Warsaw 12
Kaiserhaus (Poznań) 223 Edena House (Gdańsk) 28 Two-Week Grand Tour of Poland 10,
Kameleon Store (Wrocław) 196 Golden Hound (Wrocław) 196 14–15
Medical Society Building (Krakow) 139 Golden House (Gdańsk) 247, 250 see also Tours
Old Rectory (Zamość) 131 Griffin House (Wrocław) 196 Ittar, Henryk, Arkadia 121
Parliament (Warsaw) 85 Herring Stalls (Legnica) 185 Iwonicz Zdrój 173
People’s Hall (Wrocław) 202–3 House of the Golden Sun (Wrocław) Izdbieński, Benedykt 225
Polish Post Office (Gdańsk) 242 196 Izerski Mountains 186
Raczyński Library (Poznań) 215 House of the Nuns of Trzebnica Izrael ben Józef 150
Royal Castle (Krakow) 144 (Wrocław) 195
Royal Castle (Warsaw) 28, 29, 51, House of the Polish Diaspora J
70–1 (Pułtusk) 119 Jabłoński, Antoni, University of Warsaw
St George’s Court (Gdańsk) 246, House of the Seven Electors 83
248–9 (Wrocław) 196 Jadwiga, Queen 46, 60, 141, 192–3
see also Castles; Cathedrals; Chapels; Jaś (Wrocław) 197 Jagiellonian Dynasty 43, 46–7, 48, 60,
Churches; Fortifications; Palaces Koszuty mansion 28, 217 144, 146, 149, 176
Historicism, architecture 29 Krasiński mansion (Opinogóra) 119 Jagiellonian University (Krakow) 141
History 43–61 Krzysztof Przybyła (Kazimierz Dolny) Jagniątków 183, 188
18th century 52–3 125 Jakubczyńska, Anna 161
Golden Age 48–9 Leopold Kinderman Villa (Łódź) Jama Michalika café (Krakow) 140
Jagiellonian Dynasty 46–7 234–5 Jan I Olbracht 60
Modern Poland 58–9 Loitz House (Szczecin) 260, 261 Jan II Kazimierz 51, 61, 75, 83, 167
Piast Dynasty 44–5 Małgosia (Wrocław) 197 Jan III Sobieski 30, 50, 51, 61, 77, 102,
Poland from 1918 to 1945 56–7 Matejko’s House (Krakow) 140 103, 176, 245
Poland under the Congress of Vienna Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Housing heart of 91
54–5 Estate (Wrocław) 203 Janowiec 124
rulers of Poland 60–1 Mikołaj Przybyła (Kazimierz Dolny) January Insurrection 54, 55, 82
The “Silver” 17th century 50–1 125 Janusz I 77
Hitler, Adolf 191, 289 Orsetti House (Jarosław) 177 Jarocin, restaurants 311
Hochberg family 191, 211 Płóciennik House (Lubomierz) 187 Jarosław 177
Hoffman, Joseph Franz 30 The Pranie Forester’s House 290 Jaruzelski, Wojciech 59, 61
Church of the Holy Cross (Jelenia Renaissance house (Biecz) 172 Jarzębski, Adam 32
Góra) 190 Star House (Toruń) 276, 277 Jasna Góra 50, 75
Hohenlohe-Ingelfingen, Duke Freidrich Ulica Długa (Warsaw) 75 Jastarnia 265
Ludwig von 203 Uphagen House (Gdańsk) 13, 246, Jastrzębia Góra 265
Hohenzollern, Albrecht 48 249 Jastrzębiec, Wojciech 160
Hohenzollern family 48, 281 Villa Atma (Zakopane) 170 Jaszczurówka wooden chapel 29
Höhne, Anton, Działyński Palace 220 Wojnowice manor house 192 Jauch, Joachim Daniel 85
Holidays, public 41, 320 Hungary 46 Jawor 186
Holocaust 21, 37, 166 Husaria 51, 85 Jaworzyna 191
Holy Cross Mountains (Małopolska) Hussars see Husaria Jaworzyna, Mount 172
157 Hygeia, statue of (Poznań) 222 Jazz 33, 328
Holy Cross Sermons 30 festivals 33, 38, 39, 40
Holy Saturday 38 I Jedlnia Zdrój, festivals 39
Home Army 56, 57, 85 Ibsen, Henryk 31 Jelenia Góra 190
Horse-riding 330 Ice sailing 331 festivals 39
Hospitals 339 Iława Lake District 281 hotels 303
Hostels 300–1 restaurants 318 Jerzy II, Duke 193
362 GENERAL INDEX
Jesuits, 49, 76, 181, 184, 185, 195, 205, Katyń massacre 57 Koszuty 28, 217
220, 221, 232, 233, 285, 289 Kaufman, Ludwik, Pac Palace (Warsaw) Kotowski family 76
see also Churches 92 Kozłówka Palace 15, 128
Jewellery Kazimierz Dolny 15, 33, 110–11, 113, Krakow 15, 23, 132–51, 153
amber 243, 321, 323, 325 115, 125 airport 344–5
of the Pomeranian Princes 261 A Tour around Kazimierz Dolny 124–5 artistic community 31
silver 325 festivals 39 Church of St Mary 138–9
Jewish cemeteries hotels 302 entertainment 327, 328
Góra Kalwaria 123 restaurants 311 festivals 38, 39, 40, 41
Krakow 150 Kazimierz I 153 getting around 135, 352–3
Lesko 175 Kazimierz II (the Just) 60, 233 history 44, 49, 55, 59
Leżajsk 177 Kazimierz III (the Great) 26, 44, 45, 60, hotels 303
Łódź 234 125, 141, 150, 161, 164, 168, 176, 211, Main Market Square 136–7
Lublin 126 235 map: Exploring Krakow 134–5
Remuh 150 Kazimierz IV (the Jagiellonian) 46, 47, parking 350
Wrocław 203 60, 148, 161 restaurants 313–14
Jewish culture and history 21, 36 Kazimierz (Krakow) 150 Shrine of St Stanisław 51
Auschwitz-Birkenau 166 Kazimierz, Jan see Jan II Kazimierz Two Days in Krakow 12–13
Ghetto Uprising 57, 93, 97 Kędra, Władysław 235 The Wawel 144–9
Góra Kalwaria 123 Kempner, Andreas, Church of Peace Krakow Academy 45, 133, 141
Historical Museum of Krakow 150, (Jawor) 186 Krakowskie Przedmieście (Warsaw) 12,
151 Kępa Redłowska 269 80–3, 104
Jewish Culture Festival (Krakow) 39 Kepler, Johannes 184 street-by-street map 80–1
Krakow 150–1 Kętrzyn 289 Krall, Hanna 31
Majdanek State Museum (Lublin) 127 restaurants 318 Kramer, Hans, Highland Gate (Gdańsk)
Małopolska 153 Kętrzynski, Wojciech 289 248
Museum of the History of Polish Jews Kielce 156 Kramer, Johann, Green Gate (Gdańsk)
(Warsaw) 97 hotels 304 250
Nożyk Synagogue (Warsaw) 96 restaurants 315 Krasicki, Ignacy 30
persecution 37, 43, 56, 58, 97, 166 Kiepura, Jan 32, 172 Krasicki, Stanisław, Krasiczyn Castle 176
Pińczów 161 Kieślowski, Krzysztof 30, 235 Krasiczyn Castle 176
Trail of Jewish Martyrdom and Kilar, Wojciech 32, 33 Krasiński, Jan Bonawentura 122
Struggle (Warsaw) 12, 97 Kindermann, Juliusz 234 Krasiński, Jan Dobrogost 92
Treblinka 122 Kindermann, Leopold 234 Krasiński, Zygmunt 31, 55, 119
Tykocin Museum (in synagogue) 294 Kinga, Blessed 171, 173 Kraszewski, Józef Ignacy 149
Umschlagplatz Monument 96–7 Kirchberg, Matthias, Cistercian Abbey Krewo 43
see also Jewish cemeteries; (Henryków) 204 Union of 46
Synagogues Kirszenstein-Szewińska, Irena 58, 59 Krosno 173
John Paul II 59, 143 Klamerus, Władysław, Umschlagplatz Krupówki 170
birthplace 167 Monument (Warsaw) 97 Kruszwica 230, 231
Juliana of the Netherlands 95 Klein, Michael, Church of Sts Peter and Kruszyniany 36, 281, 294
Jungingen, Ulryk von 46, 288 Paul (Nysa) 205 Krutyń, restaurants 318
Jurata 265 Kletno 207 Krużlowa 47
Klimontów 159 Krynica 172
K Kłodzko Valley 206–7 Krynicki, Ryszard 31
Kaczawa (river) 186 Kluki 264 Krzeszów 189
Kaczmarski, Władysław, Medical Kmita 44 Krzycki, Andrzej 118
Society Building (Krakow) 139 Kmita, Piotr 145 Krzywcza 176
Kaczyński, Lech 59, 61 Kmita family 169 Krzyżtopór Castle (Ujazd) 28, 50–1
Kado, Michał, University of Warsaw 83 Knights Hospitallers 195, 197, 216 Książ 191
Kaiser District, Former (Poznań) 222–3 Knyszyńska Forest 295 Książ Wielki 49
Kaiserhaus (Poznań) 223 Kochanowski, Jan 30, 124, 169 Kubicki, Jakub 118
Kalisz 232 Kodeń Church 28 Belvedere Palace 99
Kalwaria Pacławicka 176 Kolbe, Maksymilian 166 University of Warsaw 83
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska 167 Kołłątaj, Hugo 53 Kućma, Wincenty
Kameleon Store (Wrocław) 196 Kołobrzeg 23, 263 Monument to 1944 Warsaw Uprising
Kamień Pomorski 263 restaurants 318 (Warsaw) 76
festivals 39 Kolonówka 272 Monument to Polish Post Office
Kamienczyk waterfall 180 Komańcza 174 attack (Gdańsk) 242
Kamieniec Ząbkowicki 204 Komeda, Krzysztof 33 Kudowa Zdrój 206
Kamsetzer, Jan Chrystian, Raczyński Komeński, Jan Amos 216 restaurants 315
Palace 75, 218 Komorowski, Bronisław 59, 61 Kujawy 275, 279
Kanał 57, 58 Komorowski, Mikołaj 167 Kulawka 34
Kantor, Tadeusz 143 Koniakowo 20 Von Kulmiz (family) 192
Kapuściński, Ryszard 31 Koniecpolskis family 82 Kulpowicz, Sławomir 33
Karkanosze National Park 180 Konrad, Duke of Mazovia 60, 274 Kuntze-Konicz, Tadeusz, The Visitation
Karkonosze Mountains 181, 188–9, Kontakt Theatre Festival 38, 276 (Warsaw) 83
190 Koprzywnica 26, 45 Kurozwęki 160
Karłowice, Peace of 49 Korczak, Janusz 97 Kurpie village (Nowogród) 293
Karłowicz, Mieczysław 32 Kórnik 215, 217 Kuzobowski, Ludwik, Grand Theatre
Karnitz, Walentyn von 245 Korpalski, Marija and Zygfryd 242 (Warsaw) 93
Karpacz 189 Kos family 254 Kwaśniewski, Aleksander 61
hotels 303 Kościerzyna 268 Kwidzyn 273
Kartuzy 268 Kościuszko, Tadeusz 52, 53, 94, 145, 234
Kashubia 268 Kossack, Wojciech, Panorama of L
Kasprowy Wierch, Mount 170 Racławice 195 Labour Day 38
Katowice 23, 181, 211 Kossak, Juliusz, Franz Josef Enters Łąck 118
hotels 304 Krakow 55 Ląd 227
restaurants 314 Kössler, Michael, Church of Saints Peter Lądek Zdrój 207
Kąty 173 and Paul (Duszniki Zdrój) 206 hotels 304
GENERAL INDEX 363
Lady with an Ermine (da Vinci) 140 Libraries (cont.) Majer, Maciej J., Potocki Chapel 228
Łagów 216 Raczyński Library (Poznań) 215, 222 Majewski, Hilary, spinning mill (Łódź)
festivals 39 Lidzbark Warmiński 286 235
Lake Bnin 217 Ligęz family 177 Makowicz, Adam 33
Lake Kórnik 217 Lighthouse, Kołobrzeg 263 Małachowski, Stanisław 53
Lakes 24 Linnaeus, Carolus 201 Malbork 10, 14, 27, 270–1, 279
Biskupinskie 226 Lipski, Jan 226 hotels 305
Drawsko 257, 262–3 Liszt, Franz 184 restaurants 318
Gardno 264 Literature 30–1 Małcużyński, Witold 32
Głębinowskie 205 Lithuania 43, 46, 48, 49, 60, 120, 281 Malczewski, Jacek 149, 218, 222
Gopło 231 Livonia 49 Polish Hamlet 87
Great Mazurian 14, 24, 290–1, 331 Liw 122 Maliński, Paweł, Grand Theatre
Iława District 281 Locci, Agostino (the Elder) (Warsaw) 93
Land of a Thousand Lakes 19, 24, 113, Krzyżtopór Castle (Ujazd) 158 Małojowice 193
280–95 Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw) 69 Małopolska, getting around 154
Łebsko 264 Locci, Agostino (the Younger) Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 21, 120,
Lednicka 226 Capuchin Church (Warsaw) 91 152–79
Lednickie 214 Wilanów (Warsaw) 102 hotels 303–4
Leśniańskie 187 Łódź 23, 234–5 restaurants 313–16
Łuknajno 291 architecture 28 Man of Iron (A. Wajda) 30
Mamry 331 festivals 38, 40 Mangoldt, Franz Josef
Morskie Oko 170 hotels 302 Aula Leopoldina (Wrocław) 194
Niegocin 291 map 234 tomb of St Jadwiga (Trzebnica) 193
Otmuchowskie 205 restaurants 311 Mankowski, Szymon 124
Śniardwy 290 Loewe, Adam, Łazienki Palace Manzel, Ludwig, Hercules Fighting the
Wigry 292 Orangery (Warsaw) 101 Centaur (Szczecin) 260
Włocławek 118 Loitz family 260 Maps
Żywiecki 166, 167 Łomża 293 Augustów Canal 292–3
Lanci, Francisco Maria, Będzin Castle 211 The Lord’s Blessing (Hahn) 240 Bieszczady Mountains Tour 174–5
Lanckorońska, Caroline 147 Lost property 339 Chełmno 274
Łańcut 154, 178–9 Louis of Hungary 45, 60 Czarna Hańcza 292–3
coyyncerts 328 Louis XV 52 Dunajec Valley 172–3
festivals 38 Łowicz 29, 120–1 Eagles’ Nests Trail 164–5
hotels 304 restaurants 312 Exploring Małopolska 154–5
Land of a Thousand Lakes 19, 24, 113, Lowlands 25 Exploring Pomerania 258–9
280–95 Lubelszczyzna 21 Exploring Silesia 182–3
Landau-Gutenteger, Gustav Lubiąż 184–5 Exploring Warmia, Mazuria and
Leopold Kinderman Villa (Łódź) 234–5 Łubieńska, Konstanta 227 Białystok Region 282–3
Piotrkowska (Łódź) 234 Lublin (city) 10, 15, 126–7 Exploring Wielkopolska 214–15
Landscape 19, 24–5 festivals 40 Gdańsk: Długu Targ and Długa 246–7
Language 335 history 57 Gdańsk: Exploring Gdańsk 238–9
phrase book 382–4 hotels 302 Great Mazurian Lakes 290–1
Lassalle, Ferdinand 203 restaurants 312 Karkonosze Mountains 188–9
The Last Judgement (Memling) 253 Union of 48, 49 Kashubia 268
Lauenstein, Laurentius, Artus Court Lublin (region) see Mazovia and the Kazimierz Dolny Tour 124–5
(Gdańsk) 247 Lublin Region Kłodzko Valley 206–7
Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 78, 100 Lublin castle 46 Krakow: Exploring Krakow 134–5
Łaziska 191 Lublin’s Underground Route 126 Krakow: Main Market Square 136–7
Le Brun, Charles, Chronos 71 Lubomierz 187 Łódź 234
Łeba 265 Lubomirska, Izabella 178 Lublin (town) centre 127
hotels 305 Lubomirski, Stanisław 151, 169, 178 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 116–
Lębork 257, 265 Lubomirski, Stanisław Herakliusz 99, 17
Łęczyca 235 100, 101 Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island
Left luggage 347 Lubomirski family 82, 177 198–9
Legnica 185 Lubostroń 29, 227 Poland at a glance 112–13
Battle of 185 Lubrański, Jan 225 Poznań 220–1
Dukes of 186 Lubrański Academy (Poznań) 225 Putting Poland on the Map 16–17
Legnica-Brzeg 193 Ludwika Maria 83 Railway Network 347
Legnickie Pole 185 Łukasiński, Walerian 77 Republic of Two Nations 43
Lehndorff family 290 Łukomski, Mikołaj A. 227 road map of Poland see inside back
Lehnert, Jan, Pauline Church on the Luminous Mountain 50 cover
Rock (Krakow) 149 Lusatian culture 226 Romanesque Architecture Tour
Lem, Stanisław 31 Lutheranism 181, 216 230–1
Lemks 174 Lutosławski, Witold 33 Świętokrzyski National Park 157
Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich 184 Łużyny 294 Szczecin 261
Leopold I 194 Lwów (Lviv) 197 Toruń 276–7
Leopold II 123 School (of sculpture) 52 Warsaw: City Centre 89
Lesko 175 Lwówek Śląski 186–7 Warsaw: Further Afield 98
Lesser Poland see Małopolska restaurants 315 Warsaw: Krakowskie Przedmieście
Leszczyńska, Maria 52 Łyna (river) 286, 287 80–1
Leszczyński, Stanisław 52, 61, 82 Łysa Góra 157 Warsaw: New Town 74–5
Leszczyński family 159 Łysica, Mount 157 Warsaw: Old and New Towns 67
Leszek the Black 60 Łysogóry range 157 Warsaw: Old Town 68–9
Leszek the White 60 Warsaw: Royal Route 79, 80–1
Leszno 216 M Warsaw: Street Finder 104–9
hotels 302 Mączyński, Franciszek Warsaw: Ulica Miodowa 90–1
Leżajsk 177 Fine Arts Society Building (Krakow) Warsaw: Warsaw at a glance 64–5
Libraries 140–1 Wolin Region 262–3
Gdańsk 252 Old Theatre (Krakow) 140 Wrocław 194–5
Kórnik 217 Majdanek 15, 127 Zamość 130–1
364 GENERAL INDEX
Marconi, Henryk Meer, Willem van der (cont.) Monasteries (cont.)

Ciechanów town hall 119 Old Town Hall (Gdańsk) 241 Camaldolite (Lake Wigry) 292
Ethnographical Museum (Warsaw) 95 Prison Tower (Gdańsk) 248 Camaldolite (Rytwiany) 160
Kossakowski Palace (Warsaw) 84 Mehoffer, Jósef Canons Regular (Czerwińsk) 26
Opinogóra Manor 119 House Museum (Krakow) 141 Carmelite (Nowy Wiśnicz) 169
Pac Palace (Warsaw) 92 Strange Garden 65 Church of the Assumption (Żagań)
Pawiak Prison (Warsaw) 96 Meissen 53 184
Radom town hall 123 Meissner, Jakob 276 Church of Corpus Christi (Krakow) 150
Marconi, Leandro 84 Meissonier, Juste-Aurèle 71 Church of St James (Chełmno) 274
Marconi, Leonard, plaque to Memling, Hans, The Last Judgement 253 Church of Sts Peter and Paul
Aleksander Fredro 197 Mendelsohn, Erich, Kameleon Store (Chełmno) 274
Marconi, Władysław, statue of Adam (Wrocław) 196 Cistercian (Gdańsk) 254
Mickiewicz (Warsaw) 82 Mennonite chapel (Gdańsk) 37 Cistercian (Henryków) 204
Maria Karolina, Princesse de Bouillon Merlini, Dominik Cistercian (Kamieniec Ząbkowicki) 204
77 Królikarnia Palace (Warsaw) 99 Cistercian (Ląd) 227
Maria Kazimiera, Queen 74, 77 Lublin town hall 126 Cistercian (Lubiąż) 184–5
Market squares Mermaid (Warsaw) 64, 105 Cistercian (Pelplin) 272
Cieszyn 210 Metro (Warsaw) 352 Cistercian (Trzebnica) 192–3
Gniew 272 Michałowicz, Jan Dominican (Piotrków Trybunalski) 233
Góra Kalwaria 123 tomb of Benedykt Izdbieński 225 Franciscan (Gdańsk) 252, 253
Jarosław 177 tomb of Jakub Uchański 121 Franciscan (Kalwaria Pacławicka) 176
Jawor 186 Michałowski, Piotr 137 Franciscan (Wyszogród) 120
Jelenia Góra 190 Mickiewicz, Adam 30, 31, 55, 227 Jesuit (Drohiczyn) 295
Kalisz 232 monument (Krakow) 133, 141 Jesuit (Poznań) 221
Kazimierz Dolny 125 monument (Warsaw) 57, 80, 82 Knights Hospitallers (Wrocław) 197
Krakow 12, 133, 136–7 Midsummer’s Night 39 Pauline (Krakow) 149
Krosno 173 Międzygórze 207 Pauline (Jasna Góra) 37, 50, 75, 162
Legnica 185 Międzyzdroje 262 Piarist Monastery (Piotrków
Lublin 126 festivals 39 Trybunalski) 233
Lubomierz 187 hotels 305 Red Monastery (Cerveny Kláśtor) 173
Lwówek Śląski 187 restaurants 318 Salesian (Czerwińsk) 120
Nowy Sącz 171 Mielczewski, Marcin 32 Mondrian, Piet 235
Otmuchów 205 Mielno, restaurants 318 Money 340–1
Poznań 212, 220, 221 Mieszkanie i Miejsce Pracy Housing Moniuszko, Stanisław 32, 93
Rydzyna 216 Estate (Wrocław) 203 Monowice 166
Rzeszów 177 Mieszko I 43, 44, 60, 115, 153, 225, 228 Monti, Innocenti, Church of St Anne
Sandomierz 159 Mieszko II 60 (Krakow) 141
Stary Sącz 171 Mieszko III 60 Monti, Karol, Church of St Anne
Świdnica 183, 191 Mieszko the Stumbler 60 (Krakow) 141
Szydłów 160 Mikołaj z Radomia 32 Monuments
Tarnów 169 Mikołajki 14, 290 1944 Warsaw Uprising (Warsaw) 76
Toruń 11, 276–7, 279 hotels 305 Adam Mickiewicz (Krakow) 133, 141
Wiślica 161 restaurants 318 Adam Mickiewicz (Warsaw) 57, 80, 82
Wrocław 196–7 “Milk Churns” (Gdańsk) 252 Battle of Grunwald (Grunwald) 288
Zamość 131 Miłków 188 Bogusławski, Wojciech (Warsaw) 93
Żywiec 167 Miłosz, Czesław 30, 31 Catholic settlers (Poznań) 221
Markets 320, 321, 322, 328 Minibuses 349 Feliks Dzierżyński (Warsaw) 93
Martial law 59 Mining 157 Fryderyk Chopin (Warsaw) 100
Martini, Simone, Angel 147 chalk 129 Grodzisko obelisk 165
Massys, Quentin 222 coal 22, 211 Grunwald Monument (Krakow) 139
Matejko, Jan 70, 137, 218 copper 185 Henryk Lubomirski (Łańcut) 178
Battle of Grunwald 47, 86 salt 168 Heroes of the Ghetto (Warsaw) 12, 97
birthplace 140 Miracle on the Vistula 56 Home Army (Warsaw) 85
Constitution of 3 May 53 Mirów 161, 164 Joahannes Hevelius (Gdańsk) 241
Matten, Jan van der, Church of St Mniszech, Mikołaj and Zofia 129 Joseph Conrad (Gdynia) 269
Nicholas, Crucifixion (Elbląg) 285 Mniszkowa, Maria Amalia Brühla 173 Józef Poniatowski 55
May coup 56 Mobile phones 342 Józef Wybicki (Kościerzyna) 268
Mayer, Joseph Modernism, architecture 29, 196, 223 Kazimierz the Jagellonian, tomb
Cathedral of Saints John the Baptist Modliszewski, Andrzej 293 (Krakow) 148
and John the Evangelist (Lublin) 126 Mogiła 151 Kotowski mausoleum (Warsaw) 74,
Piarist church (Chełm) 129 Mogilno 230 76
Mayer, Maciej, Święta Lipka shrine 289 Mokotów (Warsaw) 99 Krzysztof Szydłowiecki tomb
Mazovia and the Lublin Region 115–31 Möller, Anton (Opatów) 48
architecture 27 Church of St Catherine (Gdańsk) 242 Małakowski tomb (Warsaw) 72
Exploring Mazovia and the Lublin Tablet of Charity 244 Mausoleum of the Silesian Piasts
Region 116–17 Molli, Clemente, Zygmunt’s Column (Brzeg) 193
getting around 117 (Warsaw) 69 Mermaid (Syrena) 64, 105
hotels 302–3 Mollwitz 193 Mother of God of Passau (Warsaw) 82
restaurants 311–13 Monaldi, Jacob, Chronos 71 Nicolaus Copernicus (Toruń) 277
Mazovian Princes 70, 115 Monasteries Nicolaus Copernicus (Warsaw) 81, 84
Mazowiecki, Conrad 122 Benedictine (Tyniec) 151 Nike Monument (Warsaw) 93
Mazowsze 33 Bernardine (Bydgoszcz) 275 Polish Post Office (Gdańsk) 242
Mazuria see Warmia, Mazuria and Bernardine (Kalisz) 232 Raczyński Mausoleum Chapel
Białystok Region Bernardine (Kalwaria Zebrzydowska) (Rogalin) 219
Mead 34, 322 167 Shipyard Workers (Gdańsk) 13, 241
Media 343 Bernardine (Leżajsk) 177 Silesian Piasts mausoleum (Krzeszów)
Medical care 338–9 Bernardine (Radom) 123 189
Medical Society Building (Krakow) 139 Bernardine (Rzeszów) 177 Silesian Piasts mausoleum (Legnica)
Meer, Willem van der Bernardine (Wrocław) 196 185
Main Town Hall (Gdańsk) 249 Camaldolite (Bielany) 151 Stanisław Moniuszko (Warsaw) 93
GENERAL INDEX 365
Monuments (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Stefan Batory tomb 49 Cloth Hall gallery (Krakow) 113 Maritime Museum (Szczecin) 260,
Stefan Czarnecki (Tykocin) 294 Coal Museum (Będzin) 211 261, 261
Tadeusz Kościuszko (Krakow) 145 Contemporary Art Gallery (Toruń) 279 Museum of Applied Art (Poznań) 222
Tadeusz Kościuszko (Łódź) 234 Contemporary Art Museum (Gdańsk) Museum of Architecture (Wrocław)
Those Fallen and Murdered in the 254 196
East (Warsaw) 57, 97 Copernicus House (Toruń) 278 Museum of Arms (Liw) 122
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Copernicus Museum (Frombork) 284 Museum of the Battle of Grunwald
(Warsaw) 94 Copper Museum (Legnica) 185 (Stębark) 288
Trail of Jewish Martyrdom and Cultural Institute (Żagań) 184 Museum of the Battle of Legnica
Struggle (Warsaw) 12, 97 Dar Pomorza (Gdynia) 269 (Legnickie Pole) 185
Treblinka 122 Diocesan Museum (Gdańsk) 254 Museum of Central Pomerania
Umschlagplatz Monument (Warsaw) Diocesan Museum (Pelplin) 272 (Słupsk) 264
96–7 Diocesan Museum (Płock) 118 Museum of the Chochołów
Victims of June 1956 (Poznań) 223 Diocesan Museum (Sandomierz) 159 Insurrection (Chochołów) 170
Walentyn von Karnitz (Gdańsk) 245 Diocesan Museum (Tarnów) 169 Museum of Cinematography (Łódź)
Walerian Łukasiński (Warsaw) 77 EL art gallery (Elbląg) 285 235
Władysław Jagiełło (Krakow) 139 Ethnographic Museum (Gdańsk) 254 Museum of Contemporary Art in
Zygmunt Tower (Warsaw) 70 Ethnographic Museum (Toruń) 279 Krakow (MOCAK) 151
Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw) 68, 69 Ethnographical Museum (Warsaw) Museum of the First Piasts (Ostrów
Moraczewski, Maciej (Krakow) 139 12, 95 Lednicki) 226
Morąg 286 Ethnographical Museum (Wrocław) Museum of Folk Musical Intruments
Morandi, Bernardo, Zamość 130 197 (Szydłowiec) 123
Mościcki, Ignacy 61 Feliks Nowowiejski Museum Museum of the History of Gdańsk
Mosengel, Johann, organ at Święta (Barczewo) 287 (Gdańsk) 249
Lipka shrine 289 Fisheries Museum (Hel Peninsula) 265 Museum of the History of the Market
Moser, Franciszek, Cistercian Abbey Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Warsaw) (Krakow) 137
(Mogiła) 151 84 Museum of the History of Polish Jews
Mosques, Kruszyniany 294 Gallery of Contemporary Art (Radom) (Warsaw) 97
Motława (river) 238, 243, 246, 250, 251, 123 Museum of Jewish History (Krakow)
252 Gallery of European Art (Poznań) 222 150
Mountain lodges 300 Gallery of Polish Art (Poznań) 222 Museum of Mazovia (Płock) 118
Mountains 24 Gallery of Polish Painting (Krakow) Museum of the Mazovian Nobility
Mozart Festival (Warsaw) 39 137 (Ciechanów) 119
Mrągowo, festivals 39 Geology and Mineralogy Museums Museum of Modern Art (Łódź) 235,
Mrożek, Sławomir 31 (Wrocław) 202 235
Munch, Edvard 31 Gniezno Archdiocesan Museum 229 Museum of the Origins of the Polish
Muniak, Janusz 33 Grodno Castle Museum (Zagórze State (Gniezno) 229
Müntzer, Gerhard, Pauline Church on Śląskie) 192 Museum of the Paper Industry
the Rock (Krakow) 149 Grudziądz Museum 273 (Duszniki Zdrój) 206
Museums and galleries Henryk Sienkiewicz Museum Museum of Period Interiors (Dębno
opening hours and prices 335 (Oblęgorek) 156 near Brzeska) 169
600th Anniversary Museum Historical Museum (Krakow) 137 Museum of Romanticism
(Częstochowa) 162 Holy Father John Paul II (Wadowice) (Opinogóra) 119
Adam Mickiewicz Museum (Żerków) 167 Museum of Silesia (Katowice) 211
227 Independence Museum (Warsaw) 92 Museum of the Silesian Piasts (Brzeg)
Amber Museum (Gdańsk) 246, 248 industrial skansen (Bóbrka) 173 193
Archaeological and Historical Jagellonian University Museum Museum of Silesian Trade (Świdnica)
Museum (Głogów) 184 (Krakow) 141 191
Archaeological Museum (Warsaw) 92 Jan Kochanowski (Czarnolas) 124 Museum of Steam Locomotives
Archaeological Museum (Wrocław) 197 Jewish Historical Institute (Warsaw) (Jaworzyna) 191
Archdiocesan (Krakow) 143 96 Museum of the Uprising (Góra
Archdiocesan (Katowice) 211 Johann Gottfried von Herder (Morąg) Świętej Anny) 210
Archdiocesan (Ostrów Tumski) 201 286 Museum of Warmia and Mazuria
Archdiocesan (Poznań) 225 John Paul II Collection (Warsaw) 93 (Olsztyn) 287
Art Gallery ZPAP (Warsaw) 321 Józef Mehoffer House Museum Museum of Warsaw 69, 73
Benedictine abbey gallery (Krakow) 141 Museum of Western Kashubia
(Grudziądz) 273 Kaiserhaus Cultural Centre (Poznań) (Bytów) 265
Białowieża Forest Museum 295 223 Muzeum Miasta Rzeszów 177
Błyskawica (Gdynia) 269 Kargul and Pawlak Museum National Gallery of Contemporary Art
Budownictwa Ludowego Open Air (Lubomierz) 187 (Zachęta) 94
Museum 287 Karkanosze National Park Ecological National Maritime Museum (Gdańsk)
Bunker of Arts (Krakow) 141 Education Centre (Sobieszów) 190 13, 243, 251
Castle Gallery (Reszel) 288 Karol Szymanowski Museum (Villa National Museum (Gdańsk) 249, 253
Castle Museum (Bolków) 190 Atma, Zakopane) 170 National Museum (Kielce) 156
Castle Museum (Gniew) 273 Kashubian Museum (Kartuzy) 268 National Museum (Krakow) 15, 136,
Castle Museum (Golub-Dobrzyń) 275 Kielce Rural Museum 156 141
Castle Museum (Gołuchów) 232 Kozłówka Palace 128 National Museum (Poznań) 222
Castle Museum (Kórnik) 217 Leopold Kinderman Villa gallery National Museum (Szczecin) 260, 261
Castle Museum (Książ) 191 (Łódź) 235 National Museum (Warsaw) 12, 65,
Castle Museum (Kwidzyn) 273 Local History Museum (Pisz) 290 86–7, 94
Castle Museum (Szczecin) 260, 261 Łódź Historical Museum 235 National Museum (Wrocław) 195,
Cathedral Museum (Krakow) 145 “Lost Wawel” Exhibition (Krakow) 145 196, 197
Centre for Contemporary Art Łowicz Regional Museum 121 Natural History Museum (Cieplice)
(Warsaw) 98 Lubiąż monastery (Silesian sculpture) 188, 190
Centre for Polish Sculpture (Orońsk) 184 Natural History Museum (Wrocław)
123 Lublin Rural Musuem 127 202
Chełmno Museum 275 Lublin’s Underground Route 126 Nikifor Museum (Krynica) 172
Chopin Museum (Żelazowa Wola) Majdanek State Museum (Lublin) 15, Oświęcim-Brzezinka Museum
120 127 (Auschwitz) 13, 14, 166
366 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Music festivals (cont.) Nobel Prize (cont.)
Palace Museum (Pszczyna) 211 International Organ festival (Kamień Marie Curie (physics) 55
Panorama of Racławice (Wrocław) 14, Pomorski) 39 Max Born (physics) 194
195 International Song Festival (Sopot) 39 Wisława Szymborska (literature) 30, 31
Pawiak Prison (Warsaw) 96 Jazz Jamboree (Warsaw) 40 Władysław Reymont (literature) 30,
Polish Army Museum (Zamość) 130 Jazz on the Oder (Wrocław) 38 31, 81, 234
Polish Aviation Museum (Krakow) 151 Orthodox Church Music Festival Nobility 34–5
Polish Military Museum (Warsaw) 85 (Krakow) 41 Northern War 50, 52, 82
Portrait Gallery (Oliwa Cathedral) 255 Piknik Country (Mrągowo) 39 Norwid, Cyprian Kamil 31, 55
Post Office Museum (Gdańsk) 242 Singing Poetry Festival (Olsztyn November Insurrection 54, 55, 125, 227
Poster Museum (Warsaw) 102 Castle) 39 Nowęcin 265
Pranie Forester’s House 294 Warsaw Autumn (contemporary Nowogród 293
Princes Czartoryski Museum (Krakow) music) 40 Nowowiejski, Feliks 287
140 Wratislavia Cantans (Wrocław) 40 Nowy Sącz 171
Raczyński Palace art gallery (Rogalin) Wrocław International Guitar Festival restaurants 315
218 40 Nowy Wiśnicz 169
Radom Rural Museum 123 Złota Tarka Traditional Jazz Festival Nożyk, Zelfan and Ryfka 96
Regional Museum (Białystok) 294 (Iława) 39 Nysa 205
Regional Museum (Biecz) 172 Mysłakowice 189
Regional Museum (Bydgoszcz) 275 Myszkowski, Zygmunt 161 O
Regional Museum (Jelenia Góra) 190 Myszkowski family 137, 161 Obbergen, Anton van
Regional Museum (Łęczyca) 235 Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245
Regional Museum (Leszno) 216 N Old Town Hall (Gdańsk) 241
Regional Museum (Lidzbark Nahorny, Włodzimierz 33 Prison Tower (Gdańsk) 248
Warmiński) 286 Nałęczów 116, 125 Toruń Town Hall 277
Regional Museum (Łomża) 293 restaurants 312 Wisłoujście Fortress (Gdańsk) 255
Regional Museum (Opole) 210 Namysłowski, Zbigniew 33 Oblęgorek 156
Regional Museum (Pułtusk) 119 Napoleon 184, 263 Odra (river) 184, 193, 198, 200, 201, 202,
Regional Museum (Sandomierz) 159 Narutowicz, Gabriel 56, 61, 72, 94 210, 260
Regional Museum (Stargard National dress 35 Odrowąż, Iwo 151
Szczeciński) 262 National Ossoliński Institute 197 Odrzykoń 173
Regional Museum (Sulejów) 233 National Parks 24 Ogiński, Michał K. 121
Regional Museum (Szydłow) 160 Białowieża Forest 15, 295 Ogrodzieniec 26, 165
Regional Museum (Toruń) 277 Biebrza 293 Ojców, restaurants 315
Regional Musuem (Piotrków Bieszczady 174 Ojców National Park 164, 165
Trybunalski) 233 Karkanosze 180 Old Believers 286
Rynek Underground (Krakow) 137 Karkonosze Mountains 188 Old Rectory (Zamość) 131
salt mine museum (Wieliczka) 168 Lake Wigry 292 Oleśnica 193
Schindler’s Factory (Krakow) 151 Ojców 164, 165 Oleśnicki, Zbigniew 161, 171, 228
Skansen (Janowiec) 124 Polesian 129 Oleśnicki family 157
Skansen (Kluki) 264–5 Słowiński 264–5 Oliwa 51
Skansen (Lake Lednicky) 214 Świętokrzyski 157 Olkusz 165
Skansen (Nowogród) 293 Szwajcaria Kaszubska 257, 259, 268 Olsztyn 164, 287
Skansen (Wdzydze Kiszewskie) 29, Tatra 10, 15, 170–1, 330 festivals 39
268 Wolin 262 hotels 305
Skansens 28, 29 National Universal Exhibition (Poznań) restaurants 318
Ślęża Museum 192 56 Olympics 58
Spisz Region Museum (Czorsztyn NATO 23, 59 Opaliński, Łukasz 177
Castle) 172 Naumann, Jan Krzysztof, Saxon Opatów 48, 158
Środa Land Museum (Koszuty) 217 Gardens (Warsaw) 94 Opatów Lament 48–9, 158
Stefan Żeromski Museum (Nałęczów) Nazi SS, see also Germany, occupation Opening times, museums 335
125 of Poland Opera House (Posnań) 223
Sulphur Basin Museum (Baranów Neo-Classicism 29 Opera Leśna (“Opera in the Woods”)
Sandomierski) 159 Neunhertz, Georg Wilhel (Sopot) 269
Szczecin History Museum 261 Abbey Church of St Mary (Krzeszów) Opinogóra 119
Szołaysky House (Krakow) 12, 143 189 Opole (region) 181
Town Museum (Nysa) 205 Ład church 227 Opole (town) 20, 210
Treblinka Museum of Struggle and Rydzyna palace 216 festivals 39
Martydom 122 Żagań monastery 184 hotels 304
Tykocin Museum 294 New Sanatorium (Krynica) 172 Orańska, Marianna 204
Ukranian Art Gallery (Krakow) 143 Newspapers and magazines 343 Ordonówna, Hanka 57
Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park Nidzica 288 Orłowski, Jósef, Łazienki Palace
(Chorzów) 211 Nieborów 121 Orangery (Warsaw) 101
Warsaw Rising Museum 12, 99 Niedzica 172 Orońsko 123
Wawel Cathedral Museum (Krakow) Niemen (river) 292 Orthodox Christians 20, 21, 36, 153, 295
144 Niepołomice 168, 295 Orzelska, Anna 121
Xawery Dunikowski Museum Nietupy 294 Orzeszkowa, Eliza 31
(Warsaw) 99 Niewiadomski, Eligiusz 94 Osowiec 293
Zamoyski Palace (Kozłówka) 128 Nightclubs 329 Osowiec Tunnels 192
Music 32–3, 327–8 Nihil Novi 48 Ossolin 158
organ recitals (Święta Lipka) 289 Nikifor 172 Ossolineum (Wrocław) 197
Music festivals 38–41, 328 Nitrowski, Daniel, cathedral organ Ossoliński family 51
All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival (Krakow) (Frombork) 284 Ossoliński, Jósef Maksimilian 197
40 Niuron, Barnardo, castle of the dukes of Ossoliński, Krzysztof 158
Chopin Festival (Duszniki Zdrój) 39 Oleśnica 193 Ostra Skała 173
Festival of Folk Bands and Singers Nobel Prize Ostróda, restaurants 319
(Kazimierz Dolny) 39 Czesläw Miłosz (literature) 30, 31 Ostrów Lednicki 226
Festival of Polish Piano Music (Słupsk) Gerhard Hauptmann (literature) 188 Ostrów Tumski (Wrocław) 198–201
40 Henryk Sienkiewicz (literature) 30, 31, exploring 200–1
Głogów Jazz Meeting (Głogów) 40 54, 55, 156 street-by-street map 198–9
GENERAL INDEX 367
Ostrów Tumski Island (Poznań) 225 Palaces (cont.) Partitions (cont.)

Ostrowski, Antoni 91 Poznański (Łódź) 235 Golub-Dobrzyń 275
Oświęcim (Auschwitz) 166 Primate’s Palace (Warsaw) 91 Grudziądz 273
Otmuchów 205 Przebendowski-Radziwiłłow Kalisz 232
Otto of Bamberg 257 (Warsaw) 92 Małopolska 153
Ottoman Empire 50, 51 Pszczyna 211 Warmia 281
see also Tartars; Turks Raczyński (Rogalin) 112, 218–19 Wielkopolska 213
Ouradou, Maurice August, Gołuchów Raczyński (Warsaw) 75 Pasek, Jan Chryzostom 30
castle 232 Radziwiłł (Warsaw) 53 Pasje Studio, High Altar polyptych
Royal (Wrocław) 197 (Poznań Cathedral) 224
P Rupniewski (Grabki Duże) 160–1 Paskiewicz, Iwan 82
Paar, Jakob, Bolków castle 190 Rydzyna palace 216 Passports 334
Pac, Ludwik 92 Saski (Warsaw) 94 Pawiak Prison (Warsaw) 96
Paczków 204–5 Schaffgottsch (Cieplice) 188 The Pazim (Szczecin) 23
Paderewski, Ignacy 32 Scheibler (Łódź) 235 Peace churches 37, 181, 186, 191
Padovano, Giovanni Maria 133 Śmiełów 29, 227 Peace of Toruń 257
Ciborium, Church of St Mary (Krakow) Staszic (Warsaw) 81, 84 Peintner, Johann Blasius
138 Świerzno 263 Church of Corpus Christi (Głogów)
Cloth Hall (Krakow) 137 Talleyrand (Żagań) 184 184
Tarnów town hall 169 Villa Regia (Warsaw) 83 Grodziec palace 186
tomb of Jan Dziaduski (Przemyśl) 176 Wallenstein Palace (Żagań) 184 Pellacini, Antonio, basilica at Leżajsk 177
Paganism 157 Wejher (Nowźcina) 265 Pelpiński, Robert 241
stone circle (Mount Ślęża) 192 Wilanów (Warsaw) 12, 102–3 Pelplin 51, 272
Painted Cottage competition (Zalipie) Zamoyski (Kozłówka) 128 Penderecki, Krzysztof 32–3
168 Zamoyski (Warsaw) 84 Penitentiary Crosses 191
Palaces Złocieniec 263 People’s Hall (Wrocław) 202–3
Archbishops’ (Ostrów Tumski) 199, 200 Palej 157 Percier, Charles 222
Baranów (Sandomierz) 27 Palladio, Andrea 29, 80, 91, 99, 227 Pesne, Antoine, portrait of Anna
Belvedere (Warsaw) 78, 99 Palloni, Michelangelo 121, 122 Orzelska 121
Bishops’ (Bodzentyn) 157 Wilanów (Warsaw) 102 Petersdorf, Rudolf 196
Bishops’ (Frombork) 284 Palm Sunday 38 Pharmacies 339
Bishops’ (Kielce) 51, 156 Pampaloni, Luigi 119 Phoenix store (Wrocław) 196
Bishops of Kujawy (Toruń) 278 Panorama of Racławice (Styka/Kossack) Phrase book 382–4
Bishops of Wrocław (Otmuchów) 205 14, 195 Piasek Island (Wrocław) 198–201
Blanks (Warsaw) 93 Panufnik, Andrzej 33 exploring 200–1
Branicki (Białystok) 129, 294 Paradise Cave 156 street-by-street 198–9
Branicki (Warsaw) 90, 91 Parking 350–1 Piast duchy (Opole) 210
Chlewiska 123 Parks and gardens Piast Dynasty 43, 44–5, 60, 161, 213,
Ciążeń 227 Arkadia 121 226, 231
Czartoryski (Puławy) 125, 217 Białowieża National Park 295 Pieniny 152, 173
Czerniejewo 226 Biebrza National Park 293 Pieskowa Skała 164, 165
Działyński (Poznań) 220, 221 Bieszczady National Park 174 Pietruszka, Bogdan 241
Gniński-Ostrogski (Warsaw) 84 Botanical Gardens, (Wrocław) 201 pilgrimage 162
Gorzanów 207 Busko Zdrój 161 Góra Świętej Anny 210
Grodziec 186 geological park (Odrzykoń) 173 Grabarka 295
Gułtowy 226 Karkonosze National Park 188 Wambierzyce 206
Habsburgs (Żywiec) 167 Kórnik Castle Park 217 Pilica (river) 233
Jabłonowski (Warsaw) 93 Kościusz Park (Katowice) 211 Piłsudski, Józef 56, 57, 61, 99, 141
Kazimierz (Warsaw) 83 Książ Nature Park 191 Pińczów 161
Kossakowski (Warsaw) 84 Łagów Nature Park 216 Piotrków Trybunalski 233
Kozłówka 128 Lake Wigry National Park 292 Placidi, Franciszek
Krasiński (Warsaw) 92 Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 78, 99, 100–1 Church of St Mary (Krakow) 138
Krasiński-Golicyny (Stara Wieś) 122 Nadwarciański Nature Reserve 227 Dobre Miasto collegiate church 286
Królikarnia (Warsaw) 99 Niepołomice royal game park 168 Frombork Cathedral 284
von Kulmiz (Sobótka) 192 Ojców National Park 164, 165 Grabki Duże Palace 160
Łańcut 154, 178–9 Oliwa Park 254 Piarist Church (Krakow) 140
Łazienki (Warsaw) 12, 29, 53, 100–1 Piast Park (Gniezno) 229 Planetarium (Frombork) 284
Lubostroń 29, 227 Podlasie Bug River Gorge 295 Plants 24, 25
Meissner (Toruń) 276 Polesian National Park 129 Plersch, Jan Bogumil, Potocki Palace
Mielżyński (Poznań) 220 Raczyński Palace (Rogalin) 219 (Radzyń Podlaski) 129
Mieroszewski (Będzin) 211 Saxon Gardens (Warsaw) 12, 94, 105 Plersch, Jan Jerzy
Mniszcha (Dukla) 173 Słowiński National Park 264–5 Łowicz church 121
Morsztyn (Warsaw) 94 Świętokrzyski National Park 157 Saxon Gardens (Warsaw) 94
Mysłakowice 189 Szczytnicki Park (Wrocław) 203 Visitation of the Virgin (Carmelite
Myślewicki (Warsaw) 101 Szwajcaria Kaszubska National Park Church, Warsaw) 82
Nałęczów 125 268 Płock 118
Namiestnikowski (Warsaw) 80, 82 Tatra National Park 170–1, 330 Pniewski, Bohdan 85, 172
Nieborów 121 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park Podhale 153
Pac (Warsaw) 90, 92 (Chorzowa) 211 Podiebrad, Jan 193
Palace of Bishop Grabowski (Lidzbark Wilanów (Warsaw) 103 Podiebrad, Jerzy 193
Warmiński) 286 Wilcza Góra Geological Park Podlasie 115, 294, 295
Palace of Culture and Science (Wilkołak) 186 Poelzig, Hans 196
(Warsaw) 12, 64, 88, 95 Wolin National Park 262 steel needle, Upper Silesian Tower
Palace of the Grand Master (Malbork) Parliament (Warsaw) 85 (Poznań) 223
270 Parr, Francesco, castle of the dukes of Pol, Wincenty 149
Palace of Jan Podiebrad (Oleśnica) 193 Oleśnica 193 Polanica Zdrój 20, 206
Palace under the Tin Roof (Warsaw) Partitions 43, 44, 52, 53, 54–5, 146, Polański, Roman 30, 33, 235
68, 69 222–3, 257, 295 Polczyn Zdrój 263
Palace on the Water (Warsaw) 53, 101 Effects on modern Poland 22 Polesian National Park 129
Potocki (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Elbląg 285 Police 338
368 GENERAL INDEX
Polish Brethren 156, 160, 161 Public transport 352–3 Reymont, Władysław 30, 31, 234
Polish Hamlet (Malczewski) 87 Puck 39 heart of 81, 83
Polish Legions 54 Puck Bay 265 Ribera, José de 211
Polish Post Office (Gdańsk) 242 Puławy 15, 125, 140 Riedl, Johann, Cathedral of Saints
Polish United Workers’ Party 58 restaurants 312 Stanisław and Wenceslas (Świdnica)
Politics 20, 22–3 Pułtusk 49, 119 191
Polonian tribe 213 Ringerin, Piotr, Golden Gate (Gdańsk) 248
Połonina Wetlińska 174 Q Roads 350
Pomerania 19, 27, 44, 237, 256–79 Quadro, Giovanni Battista di, Poznań Roadside assistance 351
getting around 258 town hall 221 Rock climbing 330
hotels 305 Rock music 328
map 258–9 R Rodondo, Giacomo 70
restaurants 317–19 Rąbka 265 Rogalin 218–19
Poncino, Tomasso Rąbka Zdrój, restaurants 315 Romanesque architecture 26
Bishops’ Palace (Kielce) 156 Racławice, Battle of 195 tour 230–1
Church of Saints Mary Magdalene Raczyński, Atanazy 222 Rotenstein, Konrad Zöllner von, Palace
and Stanisław (Poznań) 221 Raczyński, Edward 222 of the Grand Master (Malbork) 270
Poniatowski, Józef 53, 55, 101 Raczyński, Filip 219 Rottmayr, Johann Michael, Church of
statue 82 Raczyński, Kazimierz 75, 218 the Holy Name of Jesus (Wrocław)
Poniatowski, Michał 91 Raczyński library (Poznań) 215, 222 195
Poniatowski, Stanisław August 29, 30, Raczyński family 219 Round Table Talks 82
42, 52, 53, 60, 61, 71, 94, 100, 101, Radom 58, 123 Równia 174
144, 248 Raduna Canal (Gdańsk) 13, 240–2 Rowokół 264
coronation 72 street-by-street map 240–1 Royal Castle (Warsaw) 12, 28, 29, 51, 68,
Popiel, King 230, 231 Radziejowski, Michał S. 121 70–1
Popiełuszko, Father Jerzy 59, 98, 242 Radziwiłł, Antoni 233 Royal Chapel (Gdańsk) 51, 245
Pöppelmann, Karol Fryderyk, summer Radziwiłł, Michał 82 Royal Palace (Wrocław) 197
theatre (Saxon Gardens, Warsaw) Radziwiłł, Michał Kazimierz 77 Royal Prussia 47, 257
94 Radziwiłł, Wanda 233 Royal Route (Krakow) 140
Pöppelmann, Mateus Daniel, Saxon Radziwiłł family 82, 92, 121 Royal Route (Warsaw) 78–87
Gardens (Warsaw) 94 Radziwiłłowa, Helena 121 Royal Way (Gdańsk) 246, 248
Population 16, 20–1 Radziwiłłówna, Barbara 168 Różewicz, Tadeusz 31
Poraj family 160 Radzyń Podlaski 129 Różny 258
Posada Rybotycka 176 Rafting, Dunajec Raft Ride 172–3 Roztocze 116
Postal services 343 Rainfall 40 Rubinstein, Artur 32, 235
Pothoff, Herman 83 The Raising of Lazarus (Fabritius) 87 Rubinstein, Helena 150
Potocki, Eustachy 129 Raków 160 Rudniev, Lev, Palace of Culture and
Potocki, Stanisław Kostka, Church of St Rapaport, Natan, monument to the Science (Warsaw) 95
Anne (Warsaw) 81 Heroes of the Ghetto (Warsaw) 97 Rulers of Poland 60–1
Potocki, Teodor 228 Rastembork 289 Rupniewski, Stanisław 160, 161
Potocki family 178 Rauch, Chrystian, Golden Chapel Russia 22, 50, 153, 232, 275, 285
Pottery tombs (Poznań Cathedral) 225 Congress of Vienna 213
at Chmielno 268 Record shops 320 and the Partitions 43, 52, 53, 54
Kashubian ceramics 321 Red Army 56, 57, 126, 233 and the Perpetual Peace 51
shopping for 322, 323 Red Swamp 293 and Polish independence 56
Poznań 14, 23, 27, 213, 215, 220–5 Redler, Christian, Potocki Palace POWs 127
Cathedral 224–5 (Radzyń Podlaski) 129 Russo-Polish War 53
entertainment 327, 328 Redler, J.C. 294 and the Warsaw Uprising 57
festivals 39, 40 Reformation 49, 252 see also USSR
hotels 303 Regnier of Amsterdam, Green Gate Ruthenia 45, 120, 176
International Trade Fair 223 (Gdańsk) 250 Rutkowska, Aurora 128
map 200–1 Rej, Mikołaj 30 Rydzyna 216
parking 351 Religion 20–1, 36–7 Rygol 292
restaurants 312 Rembrandt 70, 140 Rymanów 173
Poznański, Izrael Kalmanowicz 235 Remuh Cemetery and Synagogue Ryn 290
Prądnik Valley 165 (Krakow) 150 restaurants 319
Presidential residence 80, 82, 99 Renaissance 48 Rynek Underground (Krakow) 12,
Presiner, Zbigniew 33 architecturee 27 137
Proserpine Fountain (Poznań) 221 literature 30 Rysy 24
Prus, Bolesław 31 Zamość 130 Rytwiany 160
Prussia 22, 27, 43, 48, 54, 56, 194, 205, Rennen, Peter van der 148 Rzeszów 177
210, 213, 222–3, 229, 232, 237, 260, Shrine of St Adalbert 229
265, 273, 275, 285 Republic of Two Nations 43, 48–9, 50, S
Ducal Prussia 281, 286, 289 52, 54 Säbisch, Albrecht von
Royal Prussia 47, 257 Responsible tourism 337 Church of Peace (Jawor) 186
Prussian Woman (Pisz) 290 Restaurants 306–19 Church of Peace (Świdnica) 191
Prusz, Hanusz, Church of St Mary Flavours of Poland 308–9 Säbisch, Valentin von, Camaldolite
(Ostrów Tumski, Poznań) 225 Gdańsk 317 Monastery (Bielany) 151
Pryliński, Tomasz 137, 167 Krakow 313–14 Sachs, Clara 203
Prządki (The Spinners) 173 Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 314–16 Sądecky Beskidy Mountains 153
Przemyśl 176 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 311–13 Safety 338–9
hotels 304 meals 306 Sailing 175, 331
restaurants 315 Pomerania 317 St Adalbert (Wojciech) 44, 223, 228, 229
Przemysław II 60, 222 Silesia 314–16 St George’s Court (Gdańsk) 246, 248–9
Przybyszewski, Stanisław 31 vegetarian 307 St Jadwiga 193, 198
Pszczyna 210–11 Warmia, Mazuria and Białystok St John Nepomuk 85
restaurants 315 Region 317 St Ładysław of Gielniów 81
Ptolemy 232 Warsaw 310–11 St Maksymilian Kolbe 166
Public holidays 41, 320 Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) 311–13 St Stanisław 44–5, 51, 145, 148, 149
Public toilets 335 Reszel 288 St Wojciech see St Adalbert
GENERAL INDEX 369
Sala, Sebastian 177 Shopping (cont.) Sopot (cont.)

Salt mine (Wieliczka) 15, 168 art 321, 323 hotels 305
Saltworks (Ciechocinek) 275 books 95, 321, 323 restaurants 319
Samostrzelnik, Stanisław 151 clothes and accessories 322, 323 Sosnkowski, Oskar, Church of St Roch
portrait of Bishop Piotr Tomicki 142 food and drink 322, 323 (Białystok) 294
San (river) 176, 177 glass and crystal 322, 323 Sowiński, Józef 139
Sandomierz 27, 159 handicrafts 321 Spaetgen, Gottfried von 197
hotels 304 jewellery 321, 323, 325 Spas
Sanok, restaurants 315 opening hours 320 Busko Zdrój 161
Sapieha, Leon 176 paying 320 Ciechocinek 275
Sarmatism 34 pottery and porcelain 322, 323 Cieplice 188
Sasino, restaurants 319 records 321 Duszniki Zdrój 206
Savage, James, Saxon Gardens souvenirs 324–5 Krynica 172
(Warsaw) 94 Warsaw 320 Polanica Zdrój 206
Saxon Gardens (Warsaw) 12, 94, 105 What to buy in Poland 324–5 Polczyn Zdrój 263
Schaffgotsch family 188 where to shop 320 Special needs, travellers with 336
Scharoun, Hans 203 Shrines 21 Speimann, Jan and Maria Judyta 250
Scheerhof, Johann Jakob, Benedictine Jesuit (Legnica) 185 Spezza, Andrea, Camaldolite
church (Lubomierz) 187 St Adalbert (Gniezno) 229 Monastery (Bielany) 151
Scheffler, Felix Anton, Church of the St John of Cantinus (Krakow) 141 Spichlerze Island (Gdańsk) 13, 252
Holy Cross (Jelenia Góra) 190 St Stanisław (Krakow) 51, 148 Spicimierz 39
Scheibitz, Nikolaus von 192 Święta Lipka 289 Spielberg, Steven 150
Scheibler, Karol 235 Virgin (Częstochowa) 162 Sport 330–1
Schengen Area 59 Virgin Mary (Jasna Góra) 75 canoeing 331
Schindler, Oscar 151 Sieciechów 124 cycling 330
Schindler’s Factory (Krakow) 151 Siemigonowski, Jerzy Eleuter, St Anne golf 331
Schindler’s List 150 141 hang-gliding 330–1
Schinkel, Karl Friedrich Siemiradzki, Henryk 149 hiking 330
Antonin 233 Siemowit Piast 231 horse-riding 330
Church of St Anthony (Braniewo) 285 Sieniawa, restaurants 315 ice sailing 331
Kamieniec Ząbkowicki castle 204 Sienkiewicz, Henryk 30, 54, 55, 82 rock climbing 330
Kołobrzeg town hall 263 Oblęgorek 156 sailing and windsurfing 331
Kórnik Castle 217 Quo Vadis? 31, 156 skiing 331
Lidzbark Warmiński church 286 With Fire and Sword 157, 223 Spring in Poland 38
Mysłakowice church 189 Sigismund III Vasa see Zygmunt III Waza Squares
Toruń church 279 Silesia 20, 21, 56, 180–211 Bankowy (Warsaw) 93
Schleswig Holstein (battleship) 255 Exploring Silesia 182–3 Biskupa Nankera (Wrocław) 195
Schlüter, Andreas getting around 183 Matejki (Krakow) 139
Church of St Anthony (Warsaw) 99 glasswork 325 New Town Square (Warsaw) 77
Krasiński Palace 92 hotels 303–4 Old Town Square (Warsaw) 12, 64, 68,
Oliwa Cathedral (Gdańsk) 255 restaurants 313–16 69, 73
Royal Chapel (Gdańsk) 51, 245 Silesian uprisings 181, 210, 211 Szczepański (Krakow) 12, 140–1
Wilanów Palace 102 Simonetti, Giulio, Church of Corpus Teatralny (Warsaw) 64, 93
Schroeger, Efraim Christi (Głogów) 184 Tribunal (Piotrków Trybunalski) 233
Church of the Holy Spirit (Toruń) 278 Singer, Isaac Bashevis 126 Trzech Krzyży (Warsaw) 12, 85
Church of the Visitation (Warsaw) 83 Skansens see Museums Wolności (Łódź) 234
Primate’s Palace (Warsaw) 91 Skiing 153, 170, 172, 268, 331 Zamkowy (Warsaw) 8–9, 62–3, 69
tomb of Jakub Uchański 121 Skolimowski, Jerzy 235 see also Market squares
Schuch, Jan Christian, Łazienki Palace Skórewicz, Kazimierz, Parliament Srebrna Góra 151
(Warsaw) 100 (Warsaw) 85 Środa Wielkopolska 217
Schultz, Karol 100 Skorupka, Ignacy 57 Stachowicz, Michał, Legend of Wanda
Schulz, Bruno 31 Skórzewski, Frederyk Józef 227 151
Schwechten, Franz, Kaiserhaus Skrzetus, Mikołaj Jan 223 Stadnicki, Stanisław 177
(Poznań) 223 Skrzydlewska, Sister Alma, Church of Stained glass 55, 139, 141, 142, 235, 279
Scianzi, Giacomo, Chapel of St St Martin (Warsaw) 73 Stalin, Joseph 126
Elizabeth (Ostrów Tumski) 201 Ślęża 192 Stanisław of Szczepanów 44
Secessionism 55, 142, 196 Słowacki, Juliusz 31, 55 Stańko, Tomasz 33
Sejm (parliament) 20, 22, 47, 49, 55, 58, Słowiński National Park 264–5 Stara Wieś 122
85, 118, 223 Słupia (river) 264 Stargard Szczeciński 262
“Dumb Sejm” 52 Słupsk 264 Stary Folwark, hotels 305
Four-Year 52, 53 festivals 40 Stary Sącz 153, 171
Silesian 56 Śmiełów 29, 227 Starzyński, Stefan 93
Self-catering accommodation 300 Smoking 335 Staszic, Stanisław 83, 84, 275
Senate 22 Smołdzino 264 Statute of Toruń 48
Sęp Szarzyński, Mikołaj 30 Smuglewicz, Franciszek, church at Stauffenberg, Claus von 289
Sępolno, garden city 203 Swięty Krzyż 157 Stębark 288
Serfdom 48, 55 Sobieszów 188 Stech, Andreas, Oliwa Cathedral, High
Seven-Year War 53 Sobociński, Witold 235 Altar (Gdańsk) 255
Sforza, Bona 48, 119, 168 Sobótka 192 Steenke, Georg Jacob 285
Ships Soderbergh, Steven 31 Stein, Edith 203
Gdynia 269 Solar System (S. Wyspiański) 139 Steyner, Jan, Bernardine church
Mazurian Shipping Company 290 Solari, Antoni, Pauline Church on the (Poznań) 222
Schleswig Holstein 255 Rock (Krakow) 149 Stock Exchange (Warsaw) 93
Solen 251 Solidarity (Solidarność) 22, 58, 59, 98, Stone circle 192
Shipyards 123, 241, 242 Stoss, Veit 46, 47, 133
Gdańsk 241, 251 Solina dam 175 Church of St Mary (Krakow) 139
Gdynia 269 Soller, August, Church of Corpus Christi tomb of Bishop Zbigniew Oleśnicki
Shopping 320–5 (Głogów) 184 (Gniezno) 228
amber goods 321, 323, 325 Sopot 13, 23, 237, 266–7, 269 tomb of Kazimierz the Jagellonian
antiques 322, 323 festivals 39 (Krakow) 148
370 GENERAL INDEX
Strakowski, Jan Synagogues (cont.) Teutonic Knights 27, 46–9, 120, 126,
Arsenal (Gdańsk) 245 Pińczów 161 139, 233, 237, 240, 242, 255, 257,
Wisłoujście Fortress (Gdańsk) 255 Przemyśl 176 272–6, 281, 285, 286, 288, 289
Strange Garden (Mehoffer) 65 Szydłow 160 Bytów 265
Street food 307 Tykocin 294 Gniew 273
Streets Warsaw (Nożyk) 96 Golub-Dobrzyń 275
Aleje Ujazdowskie (Warsaw) 12, 85 Szafraniec, Piotr and Krzysztof 164 Malbork 270–1
Długi Targ (Gdańsk) 246–7, 250 Szarzyński, Stanisław S. 32 Nidzica 288
Krakowskie Przedmieście (Warsaw) Szczawnica 173 Ryn 290
80–3, 320 Szczawno Zdrój, festivals 39 Toruń 276
Nowy Świat (Warsaw) 12, 84, 320 Szczecin 23, 257, 260–1 Toruń Ethnographical Museum 279
Royal Route (Krakow) 140 hotels 305 Theatre 326–7, 329
Royal Route (Warsaw) 78–87 map 261 Borderlands Theatre Festival (Cieszyn)
Royal Way (Gdańsk) 246 restaurants 319 39
Ulica Długa (Gdańsk) 246–7, 249 Szczepkowski, Jan 85 Centre for Culture and Art (Antonin)
Ulica Floriańska (Krakow) 12, 140 Szczodrowska, Elżbieta 241 233
Ulica Foksal (Warsaw) 84 Szczurkowo 282 Cricoteka (Krakow) 143
Ulica Freta (Warsaw) 74, 76 Szczypiorski, Andrzej 31 Festival of Theatre Schools (Łódź) 38
Ulica Grodzka (Krakow) 13, 142 Szczyrk, hotels 304 festivals 328
Ulica Kanonicza (Krakow) 143 Szklarka Waterfall 188 Grand Theatre (Warsaw) 93, 104
Ulica Mariacka (Gdańsk) 243 Szklarska Poręba 188 International Festival of Alternative
Ulica Mazowiecka (Warsaw) 95 hotels 304 Theatre (Krakow) 40
Ulica Miodowa (Warsaw) 90–2 Szmalenberg, Hanna, Umschlagplatz International Street Theatre Festival
Ulica Mostowa (Warsaw) 74 Monument (Warsaw) 97 (Jelenia Góra) 39
Ulica Retoryka (Krakow) 142 Szołaysky House (Krakow) 12, 143 Konfrontacje Theatre Festival (Lublin)
Ulica Wały Chrobrego (Szczecin) 260 Sztynort 290 40
Strobel, Bartholomäus, Frombork Szulc, Daniel, St Luis Gonzaga (Warsaw) Łańcut Palace 179
Cathedral 284 83 Malta - International Theatre Festival
Struś, Jan 225 Szwajcaria Kaszubska National Park (Poznań) 39
Stryjeński, Tadeusz, Old Theatre 257, 259, 268 Old Theatre (Krakow) 140
(Krakow) 140 Szwajcer, Walenty 226 Passion Plays (Kalwaria Pacławicka)
Strynkiewicz, Franciszek, monument at Szydłów 160 176
Treblinka 122 Szydłowiec 123 Passion Plays (Kalwaria
Strzelecki, Paweł Edmund 223 Szydłowiecki, Anna 158 Zebrzydowska) 167
Strzelno 230 Szydłowiecki, Krzysztof 48–9, 158 Theatre on the Island, Łazienki Palace
Stübben, Joseph, Kaiser District Szyller, Stefan 118 (Warsaw) 101
(Poznań) 223 Stations of the Cross (Częstochowa) Wilam Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 276
Student travel 336 162 Thirteen Years’ War 46
Stüler, Friedrich August 273 University of Warsaw 83 Thirty Years’ War 37, 181, 186, 191, 206,
Styk, Jan, Panorama of Racławice 195 Zachęta (Warsaw) 94 213, 216, 257
Subiaco, Venante da see da Subiaco, Szymanowski, Karol 32, 83 Thomatis, Karol de Valery 99
Venante Villa Atma 170 Thorvaldsen, Bertel 55, 72, 82
Sucha 187 Szymanowski, Wacław, Monument to Tichy, Karol 87
Sucha Beskidzka, restaurants 315 Chopin (Warsaw) 100 Tickets
Sucharski, Henryk 255 Szymborska, Wisława 30, 31 air travel 345
Sudeten Mountains 24, 181, 188–9, Szyndzielnia 166 public transport 352
206–7 Szyślak, Wiesław 241 trains 346
Sulejów 26, 45, 233 Szyszko-Bohusz, Adolf 163 Tiecek, Friedrich, monument to
Sułkowski, Jósef A. 216 Nicolaus Copernicus (Toruń) 277
Summer in Poland 39 T Time zone 337
Sunshine 39 Table Mountains 206 Tipping, in restaurants 307
Supraśl 281 Von Talkenberg (family) 187 Toilets 335
Suvorov, Marshal 94 Talleyrand-Périgord, Dorothea 184 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Suwałki lakelands 281, 292 Talowski, Teodor, Ulica Retoryka (Warsaw) 94
restaurants 319 (Krakow) 142 Tomicki, Andrzej tomb of (Krakow) 143
Suwalszczyzna forests 283 Tapestries, Wawel Castle collection Tomicki, Piotr 49, 142
Suzin, Marek 97 49 Topienie Marzanny 38
Svenichen, Alexander 252 Tarkovsky, Andrei 31 Torelli, Stefan, painting of the Virgin,
Swach, Adam, Franciscan Church Tarłow 50 Frombork Cathedral High Altar 284
(Poznań) 222 Tarnów 169 Toruń 10, 11, 14, 27, 276–9, 325
Sweden 50, 158, 257, 260, 264, 294 hotels 304 festivals 38, 39
Świdnica 183, 191 restaurants 315 hotels 305
restaurants 315 Tarnowski, Jan 49, 169 map 276–7
Świdnica-Jawor 189, 191 Tarnowski family 169 restaurants 319
Świerzno 263 Tartars 20, 50, 159, 173, 185, 288, 294 Toruń, 2nd Treaty of 46
Święta Lipka 282, 289 Tartars’ Stone 288 Toruń, Statute of 48
Świętokrzyski National Park 157 Tatra Mountains 10, 19, 24, 112, 153, Tourist information 335, 337
Świętopekk II 249 170–1, 330, 331 Tours
Świnoujście 262 music 32, 33 A Tour around Kazimierz Dolny
ferries 345 Tatra National Park 10, 15, 170–1 124–5
festivals 39 Tausch, Krzysztof, Church of the Holy Around Wolin 262–3
Świny 190, 200 Name of Jesus (Wrocław) 195 Bieszczady Mountains Tour 174–5
Sylvester II, Pope 229 Taxis 353 Canoeing on the Czarna Hańcza and
Synagogues 37 to/from airports 344–5 Augustów Canal 292–3
Chełm 129 Tęczyński family 160 Dunajec Raft Ride 15, 172–3
Kazimierz Dolny 125 Telephones 342 Eagles’ Nests Trails 164–5
Krakow (Old Synagogue) 150 Television 343 Foothills of the Karkonosze
Krakow (Remuh) 150 Temperatures 41 Mountains 188–9
Lesko 175 Tencalla, Constantino, Zygmunt’s Kashubia 268
Nowy Sącz 171 Column (Warsaw) 69 Kłodzko Valley 206–7
GENERAL INDEX 371
Tours (cont.) Travelling (cont.) Viollet-le-Duc, Eugène 119, 232

Romanesque Architecture Tour by public transport 352–3 Virgin and Child (Botticelli) 86
230–1 by sea 345 Visas 334
see also Itineraries by taxi 353 Vistula (river) 70, 77, 98, 124, 151, 159,
Towers by train 346–7 255, 272, 273, 292
Bishop’s Castle (Braniewo) 285 by tram 352, 353 Vodka-and-herring bars 306
Brama Targowa (Elbląg) 285 in cities 352–3 Vratislav of Bohemia 198
City Hall Tower (Krakow) 136, 137 Gdańsk 238 Vredeman de Vries, Hans, Main Town
Clock Tower (Poznań) 221 Krakow 135 Hall (Gdańsk) 247, 249
Copernicus Tower (Frombork) 284 Małopolska 154
Crooked Tower (Toruń) 278 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 117 W
Divine Tower (Krasiczyn Castle) 176 Pomerania 258 Wąchock 26, 45, 158
Floriańska Tower (Krakow) 27 Silesia 183 Wacław of Szamotuły 32
Hejnał Tower (Krakow) 138 ticket prices 345, 346, 352–3 Wadowice 167
Hen’s Foot Tower (Krakow) 147 Warmia, Mazuria and Białystok Wajda, Andrzej 30, 31, 57, 58, 235
lighthouse at Wisłoujście Fortress Region 283 Wałbrzych 39, 201
(Gdańsk) 255 Warsaw 67, 73, 83, 352–3 Wałęsa, Lech 59, 61, 241
Mouse Tower (Lake Gopło) 230, 231 Wilekopolska 214 Walim Tunnels 192
Papal Tower (Krasiczyn Castle) 176 see also Maps Walking, in cities 352
Piast Tower (Cieszyn) 210 Treblinka 97, 122 wallenrod, Frederick 290
Piast Tower (Opole) 210 Trevano, Giovanni 70 Wallenrod, Konrad 290
Prison Tower (Gdańsk) 246, 248 Bishops’ Palace (Kielce) 156 Wallenstein, Albrecht von 184
Royal Tower (Krasiczyn Castle) 176 Trójmiasto 237 Wallrawe, Gerhard Cornelius de, Gate
St Jacob’s Tower (Piotrków Trzebnica 192–3 of Prussian Homage 260
Trybunalski) 233 Trzemeszno 230 Wambierzyce 206
salt towers (Ciechocinek) 275 Trzy Korony 152, 173 Wańkowicz, Walenty 30
Seven Cloaks (Szczecin) 260 Tum 26, 45, 235 Warmia, Mazuria and Białystok Region
town hall tower (Biecz) 172 Tum Hill (Płock) 118 19, 113, 280–95
Upper Silesian Tower (Poznań) 223 Tumski Bridge 198 getting around 283
Wawel fortifications (Krakow) 145 Turks 50, 51, 169, 177, 185 hotels 305
Town Halls see also Tartars map 282–3
Biecz 172 Twardowski, Pan 122 restaurants 317–19
Chełmno 274 Tykocin 281, 294 Warsaw 14, 62–109
Ciechanów 119 Tyniec 151 airport 344
Gdańsk (Main) 247 Tyrol 189 T architecture 28, 29
Gdańsk (New) 249 Table Mo Battle of 56
Gdańsk (Old) 240, 241 becomes capital city 49, 70
Jarosław 177 U bus travel 348–9
Jelenia Góra 190 Uchański, Jakub 121 City Centre 88–97
Kalisz 232 UEFA Football Championship 59 development 23
Kołobrzeg 263 Ujazd 28, 50–1, 158 entertainment 327, 328
Legnica 185 Ukraine 36, 50 festivals 33, 38, 39, 40
Leszno 216 Ulice see Streets Further Afield 98–103
Łódź 234 Under the Quail’s Nest House (Legnica) getting around 352–3
Łowicz 29 185 Grand Duchy of 54
Lublin 126 Underground Tourist Route hotels 302
Lwówek Śląski 186–7 (Sandomierz) 159 Jazz Jamboree 33
Nowy Sącz 171 Unemployment 22 map: City Centre 89, 90–1
Oleśnica 193 UNESCO 130, 133, 166, 168, 188, 203, map: Further Afield 98
Olsztyn 287 291, 295 map: Krakowskie Przedmieście 80–1
Opole 210 Uniate churches 37, 200 map: New Town street-by-street 74–5
Otmuchów 205 Union of Lublin 43 map: Old Town street-by-street 68–9
Płock 118 Universities map: Royal Route 79, 80–1
Poznań 220, 221 Jagellonian (Krakow) 141 map: Street Finder 104–9
Pułtusk 119 Lublin 126 map: travOld and New Towns 67
Radom 123 Warsaw 65, 81, 83 map: Ulica Miodowa street-by-street
Stargard Szczeciński 262 Wrocław 194, 195, 202 90–1
Świdnica 191 Uphagen, Johann 249 map: Warsaw at a Glance 64–5
Szczecin 260 Upper Silesian Industrial Region 211 New Town 67, 74–7
Szydłowiec 123 Urbaniak, Michał 33 Old Town 68–73
Tarnów 169 Ursus 58 parking 351
Toruń 277 USA 58 population figures 16
Warsaw 93 USSR 58, 95 restaurants 310–11
Wrocław 112, 197 Ustrzyki Górne 174 Royal Castle 12, 70–1
Zamość 130 Uznam 262 Royal Route 78–87
Żywiec 167 shopping 320
Traditional architecture 29 V Two Days in Warsaw 12
Trail of Jewish Martyrdom and Struggle Valerius, Marcus (Corvinus) 92 Ulica Miodowa 90–1
(Warsaw) 12, 97 van der Matten, Jan see Matten, Jan Warsaw Pact 82
Trains 346–7 van der Warsaw School of Economics 29
Trams 352 van der Meer, Willem see Meer, Willem Warsaw University 65, 83
Trapola, Maciej, Łańcut Palace 178 van der Warsaw Uprising 57, 75, 93
Travellers’ cheques, in shops 320 van der Rennen, Peter see Rennen, museum (Warsaw) 12, 99
Travelling 344–53 Peter van der Wąsowski, Bartłomiej, Church of Saints
by air 344–5 Vat 320 Mary Magdalene and Stanisław
by bicycle 353 Vegetarian food 307 (Poznań) 221
by bus and coach 348–9, 352, 353 Verdi, Giuseppe 184 Watersports 262, 290, 291, 293, 331
by car 350–1, 353 Vienna, Battle of 50, 51, 72, 82, 91, 103 Dunajec Valley 172–3
by ferry 345 Viking festival (Wolin) 39, 262 Watzenrode, Łukasż von 284, 286
by metro 352 Vinci, Leonardo da see da Vinci, Leonardo Wawel Hill (Krakow) 13, 26, 133, 144–9
372 GENERAL INDEX
Wawel Royal Castle (Krakow) 13, 26, 27, Wolff, Jan Z

45, 49, 133, 144, 145, 146–7 Church of the Holy Trinity, (Radzyń Zaccharia, Antonio Guglielmo di
Wdzydze Kiszewskie 29, 268 Podlaski) 129 castle of the Dukes of Pomerania
Węgierski, Ludwik 45 Dominican church (Lublin) 126 (Szczecin) 260
Węgrów 122 Wolf’s Lair (Gierłoż) 289
Słupsk castle 264
Weissfeldt, Thomas 195 Wolin 257, 262–3
Wejher family 265 Zachęta (Warsaw) 12, 94
Around Wolin Tour 262–3
Weloński, Pius, Stations of the Cross Zachwatowicz, Jan, Cathedral of
festivals 39
(Częstochowa) 162 St John in Warsaw 72
Wolin National Park 262
Westerplatte (Gdańsk) 13, 255 Wooden buildings Zadzik, Jakub 156
Wettin Dynasty 52, 53 Antonin 233 Żagań 184
Wiązowna, restaurants 312 Bralin (church) 233 Zagórz 175
Wieliczka 15, 168 Carpathian Mountains (Uniate Zagórze Śląskie 192
Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) 19, 21, churches) 37 Zajączek, Józef 82
212–35 Dębno Podhalańskie (church) 171 Zakopane 15, 153, 170–1
festivals 40 Harklowa (church) 173 hotels 304
hotels 302–3 Jaszczurówka (chapel) 29 music 32, 33
restaurants 311–13 Jawor (Church of Peace) 186 restaurants 316
uprising in 54 Karpacz (church) 189 Zalipie 29, 154, 168
Wielopolski, Aleksander 87 Kruszyniany (mosque) 294 Załuski, Andrzej 77
Wieniawski, Henryk 32 Świdnica (Church of Peace) 191 Zamość 10, 15, 114, 130–1
Wieprza (river) 264 Toruń (houses) 279 hotels 303
Wieżyca 192, 268 Workers’ Defence Committee 58 restaurants 312
Wigry National Park 292 Workers’ protests 58, 123, 223, 241, 269 Zamoyska, Zofia 128
Wilama Horzyca Theatre (Toruń) 276 World Biosphere Reserves Zamoyski family 84, 129
Wilanów Palace 12, 98, 102–3 Białowieża National Park 295 Zamoyski, Jan 130
Wilcza Góra Geological Park (Wilkołak) Karkonosze Mountains National Park
186 Zamoyski, Konstanty 128
188 Zaniemyśl 217
Wildlife 24–5 Lake Łuknajno 291
Białowieża Forest 295 Zanobi de Gianotisa, Bernardino,
Słowiński National Park 264 Cathedral (Płock) 118
Biebrza National Park 293 World Heritage Sites
Bieszczady Mountains 174 Zanussi, Krzysztof 30
Auschwitz 166 Zaspa Cemetery 242
bison 262, 295 Krakow 133
lynx 174 Zawadski, Stanisław
Wieliczka 168
Nadwarciański Nature Reserve 227 Lubostroń Palace 227
Zamość 130
natural history museums 188, 190, 202 Śmiełów Palace 227
World War I 54, 58, 176, 181, 237, 288
Słowiński National Park 264 Zawisza, Bishop 160
World War II 21, 43, 57, 194
wild swans 291 Zbaraski family 137
apology for 76
Wolin National Park 262 Żebrawski, Teofil, Pauline Church on
bunkers 289, 290
Wilekopolska the Rock (Krakow) 149
displacement 187
getting around 214 Żebrowski, Walenty, Church of St Anne
executions at Raczyński Palace 75
map 214–15 (Warsaw) 81
first shots fired 237, 255
Willer, Peter, Church of St Bridget Zebrzydowski, Mikołaj 167
Jews 36, 37
(Gdańsk) 242 Zebrzydowski Rebellion 50
Willmann, Michael 195 Operation Vistula 37
and Polish Post Office (Gdańsk) 242 Żelazowa Wola 120
Church of St Joseph (Krzeszów) 189
resistance movement 92 Żeromski, Stefan 116, 125
Church of St Stanisław Kostka
ships 269 Ziemia Dobrzyńska 279
(Warsaw) 98
Henryków church 204 underground tunnels 192 Ziemiańska café (Warsaw) 95
Lubiąż monastery and church 185 see also Germany, occupation of Złocieniec 263
Windmills 213 Poland; Jewish culture and history; Złotoryja 186
Windsurfing 331 Warsaw Uprising Żoliborz (Warsaw) 98
Winter in Poland 40–1 Wracław II of Bohemia 60 Zoo (Wrocław) 202
Wiślica 45, 161 Wracław III of Bohemia 60 Zug, Szymon Bogumił
Wiśniowiecki, Jeremi 157 Wrocław 21, 23, 33, 112, 194–203 Arkadia 121
Wiśniowiecki, Michał Korybut 61, 162 bridges 201 Evangelical Church of the
Witkiewicz, Stanisław Ignacy (Witkacy) city centre map 194–5 Augsburg Confession (Warsaw)
31, 264 entertainment 327, 328 94, 95
Wiwulski, Antoni, sculpture of festivals 38, 40 Primate’s Palace (Warsaw) 91
Władysław Jagiełło (Krakow) 139 hotels 304 ZUS (Polish Social Security
Władysław I the Elbow-High 44, 45, 60, itineraries 10, 11, 14 organisation) 252
118 Old Town 196–7
Zwierzyniec 150
Władysław II the Exile 60 Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island
restaurants 313
Władysław II Jagiełło 46, 60, 126, 127, 198–201
Zygmunt I the Elder 48, 49, 61, 146,
139, 141, 161, 288 parking 350
restaurants 315–16 149, 168
Władysław III Spindleshanks 60
Wrocław University 194, 195 Zygmunt II August 61, 149, 168
Władysław III of Varna 47, 60
Wulff, Jan 254 Zygmunt III Vasa 49, 50, 61, 69, 70, 98,
Władysław IV 32, 50, 61, 69, 71, 92, 98,
Wybicki, Józef 223, 268 115, 147, 156, 241, 275, 276
123, 177, 250, 265
Władysław, Duke of Opole 162 Wyczółkowski, Leon 83 Zygmunt Bell (Krakow) 148
Władysław Herman 60 Wyspiański, Stanisław 31, 55, 141, 149 Zygmunt Chapel (Krakow) 27, 49, 148,
Władysławowo 265 Franciscan Church (Krakow) 142 149
Włodkowic, Paweł 46 Helenka 143 Zygmunt Tower (Warsaw) 70
Wojciechowski, Stanisław 61 Medical Society Building (Krakow) 139 Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw) 68, 69
Wojnowice 192 Wyszogród 120 Żywiec 166–7
Wojnowo 290 Wyszyński, Stefan 58, 72, 174
Convent of the Old Believers 36, 286
Wojsławice 201 Y
Wojtyła, Karol see John Paul II Young Poland 31, 137, 141, 222
Wola Justowska 150 Youth hostels 300–1, 336, 337
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 373
Acknowledgments
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374 PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book
No, thank you Nie, dziękuję n-yej jENkoo-yeh
SUMMARY OF Please Proszę prosheh
PRONUNCIATION IN POLISH I don’t Nie rozumiem n-yeh rozoom-yem
understand
ą a nasal “awn” as in “sawn” or “an” as in
Do you speak Czy mówi pan chi moovee pan
the French “Anjou” but barely sounded
English? po angielsku? po ang-yelskoo
c “ts” as in “bats”
(to a man)
ć, cz “ch” as in “challenge”
Do you speak Czy mówi pani chi moovee panee
ch “ch” as in Scottish “loch”
English? po angielsku? po ang-yelskoo
dz “j” as in “jeans” when followed by i or e (to a woman)
but otherwise “dz” as in “adze” Please speak Proszę mówić proseh mooveech
dź “j” as in “jeans” more slowly wolniej voln-yay
dż “d” as in “dog” followed by “s” as in Please write it Proszę mi to prosheh mee to
“leisure” down for me napisać napeesach
ę similar to “en” in “end” only nasal and My name is… Nazywam się… nazivam sheh
barely sounded, but if at the end of the
word pronounced “e” as in “bed” Useful Words and Phrases
h “ch” as in Scottish “loch” Pleased to meet Bardzo mi miło bardzo mee meewo
i “ee” as in “teeth” you (to a man) pana poznać pana poznach
j “y” as in yes Pleased to meet Bardzo mi miło bardzo mee meewo
ł “w” as in “window” you (to a woman) panią poznać pan-yAWN poznach
ń similar to the “ni” in “companion” Good morning Dzień dobry jen-yuh dobri
ó “oo” as in “soot” Good afternoon Dzień dobry jen-yuh dobri
rz similar to the “s” in “leisure” or, when it Good evening Dobry wieczór dobri v-yechoor
follows p, t or k, “sh” as in “shut” Good night Dobranoc dobranots
ś, sz “sh” as in “shut” Goodbye Do widzenia do veedzen-ya

What time is it…? Która jest godzina? ktoora yest gojeena
w “v” as in “vine”
Cheers! Na zdrowie! na zdrov-yeh
y similar to the “i” in “bit”
Excellent! Wspaniale! wspan-yaleh
ź, ż similar to the “s” in “leisure”
Shopping
Emergencies Do you have…? Czy ma pan…? che ma pan
Help! Pomocy! pomotsi (to a man)
Call a Zawołać zawowach Do you have…? Czy ma pani…? che ma panee
doctor! doktora! doctora (to a woman)
Call an Zadzwonić zadzvoneech How much is this? Ile to kosztuje? eeleh to koshtoo-yeh
ambulance! po pogotowie! po pogotovee Where is the… Gdzie jest gjeh yest
Police! Policja! poleetsya department? dział z…? jawuh z
Call the fire Zadzwonić po zadzvoneech po Do you take Czy przyjmuje pan chi pshi-yuhmoo-yeh
brigade! straż pożarną! stras posarnAWN credit cards? karty kredytowe? pan karti kreditoveh
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest nlbleezhsha (to a man)
nearest phone? budka najbliższa Do you take Czy przyjmuje chi pshi-yuhmoo-yeh
telefoniczna? boodka credit cards? pani karty panee karti
telefoneechna (to a woman) kredytowe? kreditoveh
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest bakery piekarnia p-yekarn-ya
hospital? szpital? shpeetal bookshop księgarnia kshENgarn-ya
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest posterunek chemist apteka apteka
police station? policji? posterunek department store dom towarowy dom tovarovi
politsyee exchange office kantor walutowy kantor valootovi
travel agent biuro podróży b-yooro podroozhi
Communication Essentials post office poczta, urząd pochta, ooZHAWNd
Yes Tak tak pocztowy pochtovi
No Nie n-yeh postcard pocztówka pochtoovka
Thank you Dziękuję jENkoo-yeh stamp znaczek znachek
PHRASE BOOK 375
How much is a Ile kosztuje eeleh koshtoo-yeh Can we have the Proszę prosheh
postcard to…? pocztówka do…? pochtoovka do bill, please? rachunek? raHoonek
airmail poczta lotnicza pochta lotneecha Where is the toilet? Gdzie jest toaleta? gjeh yest to-aleta
Staying in a Hotel Menu Decoder
Have you any Czy ma pan chi ma pan baranina mutton, lamb
barszcz czerwony beetroot soup
vacancies? wolne pokoje? volneh poko-yeh
bażant pheasant
(to a man)
befsztyk beef steak
Have you any Czy ma pani chi ma panee
bigos hunter’s stew (sweet and sour cabbage
vacancies? wolne pokoje? volneh poko-yeh
with a variety of meats and seasonings)
(to a woman)
bukiet z jarzyn a variety of raw and pickled vegetables
What is the charge Ile kosztuje eeleh koshtoo-yeh
ciasto cake, pastry
per night? za dobę? za dobeh
cielęcina veal
I’d like Poproszę poprosheh
cukier sugar
a single room. pokój pokoo-yuh
cukierek sweet, confectionery
jednoosobowy yedno-osobovi
dania mięsne meat dishes
I’d like a double Poproszę poprosheh
dania rybne fish dishes
room. pokój pokoo-yuh
dania z drobiu poultry dishes
dwuosobowy dvoo-osobovi
deser dessert
I’d like a twin Poproszę poprosheh
flaki tripe
room. pokój z dwoma pokoo-yuh z dvoma
grzybki marinated
łóżkami. woozhkamee
marynowane mushrooms
I’d like a room Poproszę poprosheh herbata tea
with a bathroom. pokój pokoo-yuh jarzyny vegetables
z łazienką. z wazhenkAWN kabanos dry, smoked pork sausage
bathroom łazienka wazhenka kaczka duck
bed łóżko woozhko kapusta cabbage
bill rachunek raHoonek kartofle potatoes
breakfast śniadanie shn-yadan-yeh kasza gryczana buckwheat
dinner kolacja kolats-ya kaszanka black pudding
double room pokój pokoo-yuh kawa coffee
dwuosobowy dvoo-osobovi kiełbasa sausage
full board pełne pewuhneh klopsiki minced meat balls
utrzymanie ootzhiman-yeh lody ice cream
guesthouse zajazd za-yazd łosoś salmon
half board dwa posiłki dva posheewuhkee łosoś wędzony smoked salmon
dziennie jen-yeh makowiec poppy seed cake
key klucz klooch naleśniki pancakes
restaurant restauracja restawrats-ya piernik spiced honeycake
shower prysznic prishneets pierogi ravioli-like dumplings
single room pokój pokoo-yuh piwo beer
jednoosobowy yedno-osobovi prawdziwki ceps (type of mushroom)
toilet toaleta to-aleta przystawki entrées
pstrąg trout
rolmopsy rollmop herrings
Eating Out
sałatka salad
A table for one, Stolik dla jednej. stoleek dla yednay sałatka owocowa fruit salad
please. osoby proszę osobi prosheh sok juice
A table for two, Stolik dla dwóch stoleek dla dvooh sok jabłkowy apple juice
please. osób proszę. osoob prosheh sok owocowy fruit juice
Can I see Mogę prosić mogeh prosheech sól salt
the menu? jadłospis? yadwospees śledź herring
Can I see the Mogę prosić mogeh prosheech tort cake, gâteau
wine list? kartę win? karteh veen wieprzowina pork
I’d like… Proszę prosheh wino wine
376 PHRASE BOOK
woda water Numbers

ziemniaki potatoes
0 zero zero
zupa soup
1 jeden yeden
2 dwa dva
Health 3 trzy tshi
I do not feel well. Źle się czuję zhleh sheh choo-yeh 4 cztery chteri
I need Potrzebuję potzheboo-yeh 5 pięć p-yENch
a prescription for… receptę na… retsepteh na
6 sześć shesh-ch
cold przeziębienie pshef-yENb-yen-yeh
7 siedem sh-yedem
cough (noun) kaszel kashel
cut skaleczenie skalechen-yeh 8 osiem oshem
flu grypa gripa 9 dziewięć jev-yENch
hayfever katar sienny katar shyienny 10 dziesięć jeshENch
headache pills proszki od proshkee od 11 jedenaście yedenash-cheh
bólu głowy booloo gwovi 12 dwanaście dvanash-cheh
hospital szpital shpeetal
13 trzynaście tshinash-cheh
nausea mdłości mudwosh-che
14 czternaście chternash-cheh
sore throat ból gardła bool gardwa
15 piętnaście p-yEntnash-cheh
16 szesnaście shesnash-cheh
Travel and Transport
17 siedemnaście shedemnash-cheh
When is the Kiedy jest k-yedi yest
18 osiemnaście oshemnash-cheh
next train to…? następny nastENpni
19 dziewiętnaście jev-yENtnash-cheh
pociąg do…? pochAWNg do…
What is the Ile kosztuje eeleh koshtoo-yeh 20 dwadzieścia dvajesh-cha
fare to…? bilet do…? beelet do 21 dwadzieścia dvajesh-ch a yeden
A single ticket Proszę bilet prosheh beelet jeden
to … please w jedną v yednAWN 22 dwadzieścia dwa dvajesh-cha dva
stronę bilet stroneh beelet 30 trzydzieści tshijesh-chee
do… do
40 czterdzieści chterjesh-chee
A return ticket Proszę bilet prosheh beelet
50 pięćdziesiąt p-yENchjeshAWNt
to … please w obie v obye
strony do… strony do 100 sto sto
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest 200 dwieście dv-yesh-cheh
bus station? dworzec dvozhets 500 pięćset p-yENchset
autobusowy? awtoboosovi 1,000 tysiąc tishAWNts
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest 1,000,000 milion meel-yon
bus stop? przystanek pshistanek
autobusowy? awtoboosovi
Where is the Gdzie jest gjeh yest Time
tram stop? przystanek pshistanek
today dzisiaj jeeshl
tramwajowy? tramvl-yovi
yesterday wczoraj vchorl
booking office kasa biletowa kasa beeletova
tomorrow jutro yootro
station stacja stats-ya
timetable rozkład jazdy rozkwad yazdi tonight dzisiejszej nocy jeeshAYshay notsi
left luggage przechowalnia psheHovaln-ya one minute jedna minuta yedna meenoota
bagażu bagazhoo half an hour pół godziny poowuh gojeeni
platform peron peron hour godzina gojeena
first class pierwsza klasa p-yervsha klasa
second class druga klasa drooga klasa
single ticket bilet w jedną beelet v jednAWN Days of the Week
stronę stroneh Sunday niedziela n-yejela
return ticket bilet powrotny beelet povrotni
Monday poniedziałek pon-yejawek
airline linia lotnicza leen-ya lotna-yeecha
Tuesday wtorek vtorek
airport lotnisko lotn-yeesko
arrival przylot pshilot Wednesday środa shroda
flight number numer lotu noomer lotoo Thursday czwartek chvartek
gate przejście pshaysh-cheh Friday piątek p-yAWNtek
coach autokar awtokar Saturday sobota sobota

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Produced By Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw

Contributors Małgorzata Omilanowska, Jerzy S. Majewski

Editor Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer

Edited and typeset by Book Creation Services Ltd, London Introducing

Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Discovering Poland 10

The information in this

The City Centre 88

Warsaw Street Finder

Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide

Where to Travel Information 344

Entertainment in Road Map

Warmia, Mazuria and Cathedral of St John,

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Poland Area by Area POLAND REGION BY REGION 115

cover is a general map Kingdom of Poland in 1526 after the death

of the country showing the Commonwealth of Two Nations from

interesting places to visit

Mazovia – a region famous for its orchards

landscape. The gorge of the Vistula, around the town Mława yc

This shows the road regions there are many country

network and provides an nearby Łowicz is a well-known

Serock Stara Wieś

illustrated overview of the

interesting places to visit ARKADIA

are useful tips on getting Kozienice Kock

around the region by car

and public transport. 6 Żelazowa Wola

118 POLAND REGION BY REGION M A ZTours

the most important sights.

YS ŻOW PLAC Targowa W

All the main towns have an

have gained renown. They TARG

individual section where the

RSK OS Awangarda Church of

Town Hall Park

museums, monuments and

OD IMS People's Hall

Royal ZIM DOMINIKAŃSKI

the assembly hall, the Aula

Leopoldina, of 1728–41. The EL the Piasts as a mausoleum, and it E Panorama of Racławice

DW WOLNOŚCI Church of Saints

listed. All the sights of major

by Franz Josef Mangoldt ICZA

0 metres 200 Lalek

interest are located on the

0 yards 200 M. Kopernik

The town map shows

198 POLAND REGION BY REGION WROCŁAW 199

Ostrów Tumski and Piasek Island Gate of the Church

(Kościół św. Krzyża)

This Gothic church is set on

surviving church in Wrocław.

two levels. The upper church is

This gives a bird’s-eye view of

describing the sights.

138 POLAND REGION BY REGION KRAKOW 139

3 Church of St Mary VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Neo-Baroque reconstruction

6 Major Sights The famous trumpet call – sculpture of Władysław Jagiełło

These are given two full pages. There memory of a medieval

The Medical Society Building

are cutaways or reconstructions of broadcast live by

historic buildings, maps of national would hardly merit mention