New Wool2Yarn Global 2021LR

wool2yarn
Speciality Fibres
Global
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2021-2022

Dear Reader
Welcome to the 2021 issue of wool2yarn global magazine. As in
2020 it has been a challenge to maintain meaningful connections
with all around the globe, and to bring this publication to fruition
this year. I take this opportunity to thank all advertisers and
contributors who have helped us make this issue possible.
The uncertainty that has hung over the industry has not entirely
Established in 1957 by Mr Jo Modiano, G. Modiano Limited disappeared but as vaccinations gain momentum there is light
is based in London. We have grown to become one of the world’s at the end of the tunnel. Consumers are embracing the use of
largest wool trading and processing companies. We sell greasy natural fibres and if our industry takes advantage of this, there will
wool, wool tops, including Superwash and Basolan treated, be good years ahead.
noils and wastes. We also supply wool grease from our factory
We hope that the pages within wool2yarn global will help keep
in Nejdek, Czech Republic. you informed and up-to-date with industry news and innovations
around the world.
In this issue we include information on wool production, views
from industry leaders, and latest innovations using wool fibre. We
also include special reports on environmental accreditations, the
wool industry in India, Brexit, and more.
China’s strong domestic demand has underpinned merino wool
prices during the past two years, and we feature a number of
articles on this subject. Crossbred wools have not fared as well but
price and demand is rising and we feature articles on companies
and countries in this space.
I wish you all good reading and a safe and healthy year ahead.
Victor Chesky
Editor
Acknowledgements Art & Design ITP publications

American Sheep Association Ely Torres wool2yarn global
AWI/The Woolmark Co wool2yarn china
Published by
www.woolnews.net
British Wool International Trade Publ. (ITP)
www.woolbuy.net
China Wool Textile Ass PO Box 11, Caulfield South
Canadian Wool Co-Operative Melbourne, Victoria 3162 Read us on-line
AUSTRALIA www.wool2yarnglobal.com
Cape Wools South Africa
IWTO Editor Send us an email
Mohair South Africa Victor Chesky [email protected]
Nanjing Wool Market Contributors Front Cover Image:
NZ Wool Interest Luca Alvigini
Secretariat Uruguayo de la Lana Robert Wang
Steven Read
Federacion Lanera Argentina Tone Tobiasson Sofia Cocoon by JSC Garlita
R. Richero (Richero and Ass.) Ajay Pradhan Fine Merino Wool NM26/2
R. Cardellino / J.L. Trifoglio Martin Curtis Anti-Mosquito treated
To acknowledge the preferences of our contributors we use both UK and US spelling in our articles
RedSun Wool
1870
150 YEARS
WE ARE WOOL
We believe that shared knowledge, a vigorous commitment to continuous
improvement, progressive, ethical and sustainable attitudes alongside
financial discipline, are critical ingredients for the future success of the
mohair industry.
SUSTAINABLE RESPONSIBLE VERSATILE

For natural, versatile & quality tops, yarns & products, visit www.mohair.co.za
C O N T E N T S C O N T E N T S
24 36 76 78 119 128
10. INDUSTRY NEWS Regenerative Agriculture 82. CANADA Q&A with YANG Shao Wei
Wool Production 2021-22 South Africa Sustainability Initiatives Canadian clip - Versatile Alternative Eco Certified Wool Detergents
Q & A Stuart McCullough AWI Progress on Mohair Standards
IWTO - Sustainability Trends 86. ARGENTINA 140. BREXIT SPECIAL REPORT
BKB - regenerative change
RWS wool and tops A Marriage of Convenience or Bitter Divorce
A view from China Manufacturer moves to RMS
Meeting the need for provenance
92. GERMANY 154. AUSTRALIA
Seamless Merino Cycling Kit 55. INDUSTRY New ComfortMeter
Tailored Knitwear Focus on more regional retail chains
Matty Bovan wins Woolmark Prize Demand from China - Prices Firm
Super Superwash Wool
Yarns with Focus 104. PERU Australian Exporter Adds Private Buying
3D Printing
New Online Platform for Tops Alpaca Processor Turns 90 Carbonised Australian Wool is the Answer
China Powered by Online Shoppers
Savio Solutions for Wool Yarn Wool from Peru
nsc Long Staple Roller Cards
160. NEW ZEALAND
26. SPECIALITY AND RARE FIBRES 119. INDIA – SPECIA REPORT Scoured NZ Wool a Better Option
Q&A Luca Alvigini Alpha Tops Carbonized Wool Noils in Demand
Emerging Wool Production Hub Accredited Wool Testing
New Wool Bedding Technology “Install and Forget” Spinning Rings BKB
36. WOOL INTEGRITY REPORT HAELIXA DNA Markers
Circular Economy Following Natures Lead 124. CHINA 164. UNITED KINGDOM
Integrity and Assurance Programs 74. WOOL DYEING CWTA - Strong Domestic Market Q&A with Andrew Hogley CEO BW
NZ Launches National Wool Standard Certified Textile Dyeing NWM - Business as Usual British wool direct to the consumer
8 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 9

Australia
The Australian Wool Production
Forecasting Committee (AWPFC)
has updated its forecast of shorn
wool production for the 2020/21
season. This fourth forecast is
for production to be 290 million
kilograms (mkg) greasy, a 2.1%
increase on the estimate of 284
mkg greasy in 2019/20.
The AWPFC’s first forecast of shorn
wool production for the 2021/22
season is 305 mkg greasy, a 5.1%
Steven Read increase on the 2020/21 forecast
because of modest increases in the
‘Thirdly there is the rest of the number of sheep shorn (up 3.7%)
world – and for wool that is and average cut per head (up
Europe, India and Japan and Korea 1.4%). The Committee expects that
at least for processing. These areas the current low sheep numbers will
have struggled to find a balance restrict larger increases in shorn
wool production in the short term
World Wool Production 2021-22

firstly from an animal welfare between dealing with Covid and
keeping consumer spending and despite the favourable seasonal
perspective and also its impact
manufacturing going. As a result conditions across many wool
on employment and the broader
producing regions of the country.
W
economy. we have seen China lift its share of
orld textile fibre upholstery. The remaining 23% is increases over a long period. the Australian and global wool clip Committee Chairman, Russell
production reached used in industrial applications. ‘Secondly let’s look at China, our as both processor and consumer as
‘Looking at the impact of Covid Pattinson noted that ‘on the back
109,100 million kg in biggest wool buyer at least at early the rest of the world dropped’. of good seasonal conditions, wool
World production of natural fibres on the wool market is a complex stage processing. China was first
2020. According to ‘So that’s looking back’, says Steven producers intend to re-build their
such as cotton, linen and wool matter perhaps best looked at in and first out of Covid lockdown
IWTO 2021 estimates Read. ‘Looking forward and trying ewe numbers in many key wool
stand at 28,890 million kg per from a few different perspectives’, early last year. This did have an
world consumption to guess the future is a tricky producing regions’.
year. Wool represents an annual comments Steven Read, CEO impact on wool prices at that
was 103,400 million kg in the same thing in these uncertain times.
production of 1,031 million kg. Michell. Michell is Australia’s moment but this was tempered AWTA key test data show a
year. Nevertheless we have good signs
Annual production of silk is 179 oldest and largest processor and by high pass in rates by wool significant increase in staple
70.4% of total consumption was million kg while other animal fibre exporter of Australian wool fibre producers. China swiftly re-opened of catch-up buying in Europe by length to 89.0 mm, up 2.9 mm
used in petroleum based synthetic such as Alpaca, Mohair, Cashmere, and has been associated with the and through Chinese Government processors who find their supply compared with the July to March
fibres. Cotton is the second Camel and Yak amount to 49 international wool textile industry desire to see their manufacturing chains near empty – particularly 2020 period. However, some of
largest consumer with 21.5% of million kg per year. Natural fibres for more than 150 years. base recover swiftly, and pent in knitwear. The Northern the increase in staple length can
the total, followed by fibres from of animal origin total 1,259 million up consumer spending bolstered Hemisphere is learning to live with be attributed to delayed shearing.
‘Firstly, when looking at supply,
modified wood cellulose at 7.1%. kg per year. by an inability to travel, demand Covid and consumer spending There has also been an increase in
all in all wool production in
Wool fibres represent 1% of total for wool at a manufacturing level is recovering and with travel still mean fibre diameter to 20.8 µm,
Even as consumers show a marked Australian and indeed most wool
consumption. and also consumer level swiftly on the back burner apparel and up 0.2 µm, and staple strength up
preference for natural fibres, producing countries have avoided
recovered. Indeed the Michell personal effects are on the list for 1.5 N/ktex to 33.8 N/ktex.
IWTO 2021 reports that production has little chance of any noticeable impact from Covid.
Plant at Suzhou has been at full many’.
approximately 47% of processed significant increases, with the This makes some sense given the AWTA wool test volumes to the
fibres go into apparel end uses, exception of cotton. In the best regional nature of the activity and capacity with a back log of work for All in all wool has survived the end of March 2021 were down by
compared with 30% for interior possible scenario animal fibre declaration by most governments well over twelve months now. This Covid issue, as we have seen it so 0.9% year-on-year, however, there
decoration such as carpets and production can only achieve small that this is an essential service, is reflected at other plants as well. far, surprisingly well. was a sharp increase in AWTA wool

testing volumes from February to has been from the knitted sector. greasy kilograms in the coming
April. First-hand offered wool at Finer fabric has been very subdued year. ‘What is interesting is
auction to the end of week 44 was but manufacturers in Italy are quite that all wool produced in this
up 12.1%. The increase is partly optimistic long term, in particular last year, was exported or used
due to the upward movement for active wear and leisurewear’. domestically’, says Nigel Hales,
in wool prices evident in recent In a mid-year market briefing AWI WoolWorks. ‘Demand from local
months as producers liquidate outlined wool price position and mills is well up on the previous
wool stocks. Chinese imports year. Although China is still the
the challenges around logistics.
of Australian biggest buyer of New Zealand
‘It is good to see the decrease in The report said: Wool prices have
wool hit over wool on volume, taking over
wool production in Australia has continued to consolidate since
24000 tons in 30% of the New Zealand clip, the
bottomed out and favourable the commencement of 2021 with
February 2021. outstanding buyers this year have
conditions should see wool the EMI averaging a solid 1285ac
Australian wool been Nepal and India, doubling
production increase going clean/kg. Since the New Year, the
exports to China their purchasing compared to last
forward’, says Josh Lamb, president EMI has maintained an increase of
now account season’.
of Australian Council of Wool 15.9% (184ac). for 87.2%
Exporters & Processors. ‘We are In US dollars, the advance has been For 2020-21, total wool production
very pleased that farmers have even greater because the AUD/ is forecast to decline 2.8% on the
not dropped wool as a growing USD pair favoured a strengthening back of declining sheep numbers.
commodity. Due to drought they on the AUD side. An 18.7% or At 133,000 tonnes, this will be the
have learned that to diversify is a 164usc gain in the US value of wool lowest wool production on record
good idea and keeping sheep for has been registered. and sits 7% below the five-year
wool as well as meat, and cropping average. Slipe wool production
Logistics issues continue to be the
provides a good economic mix’. is forecast to decline in line with
wild card currently impacting the
falling sheep meat slaughter
Evan Croake of Techwool trade of wool (and other export
average waiting time is two or The shipping disruption obviously ABS figures is that just 9.7% of numbers.
comments that ‘Since Covid-19 goods). Skyrocketing transport
disrupted the usual patterns charges across the globe are three days on both sides of import/ effects the main export destination all exports are greater than 23.9
of Australian wool buying its forcing inflationary pressure on export operations. These shipping of China but harder impacts are micron. The AWTA tested data
shows around 18% of all wool
South Africa
shipment was almost exclusively consumer goods. Access to timely being felt upon the Indian and
issues are primarily responsible tested is in that range so it can Wool production in South Africa
for orders to China. We are now vessel departures and delivery European importers. Available
for holding up exporter’s funds be assumed that a much greater for 2020/21 basically remained
beginning to see interest are becoming more problematical vessels setting sail for those
to allow further spending at wool percentage of the grower and unchanged at 50.6 m/kg, a
re-emerge from markets in India each week. All Chinese ports are nations are much scarcer than
buyer held stocks in Australia is in decrease of 0.12% on 2019/20.
and Europe. Most of this interest congested and the additional auction. Chinese bound vessels and the
the crossbred micron areas. The Eastern Cape remains the
space available on those limited top wool-producing province,
vessels is ever tightening. As the delivering 18.0 million kg, or
Australian flock consists of 67 million sheep including 31 million Merino breeding ewes market has shown, when those New Zealand 35.68%, of total receipts, followed
nations are in the room competing, by the Free State with 9.8 m/kg
200,000 people are employed within the Australian wool industry Official statistics from Beef + Lamb
the wool price is the beneficiary of New Zealand estimates sheep (19.56%), and the Western Cape
Average fibre diameter of Australian clip is 20.5 microns and staple length is 83mm that additional bidding. numbers at 27,295,000 at the end with 7.6 m/kg (15.19%).
According to the Australian Bureau of 2020 (July to June year). Sheep The average Merino indicator
92% of Australian wool exports are in greasy form, 6% carbonised, 1.7% scoured, 0.03% tops numbers at the end of 2021 are
of Statistics (ABS), 11 countries for the 2020/21 season came to
have been importing Australian estimated at 26,210,000. R149.61/kg (clean). The average
China, India, Italy, and South Korea account for 90% of all Australian wool exports
wool in greasy raw form, with Approximately 130,000,000 greasy price for Merino wool was
Typically a single bale of wool holds fleece from 30-40 sheep, weighing approx. 178kg another 13 countries taking semi kilograms were produced during R94.39/kg (greasy) and for other
processed wool. Perhaps the 2020/21. This volume is expected white wool R56.47/kg (greasy).
Between 1.5 and 2 million bales of wool are produced in Australia each year, across 37,000 sheep enterprises
most significant data from the to drop slightly to 127,000,000 The overall average price for all

wool delivered was R81.09/kg
(greasy). The COVID-19 pandemic
Argentina taking 3083.70 tons,
followed by Uruguay taking
for greasy wool. As a consequence
of lower prices and a reduction in China’s economy powered by online shoppers
contributed significantly to the 1163.00 tons. Germany was the demand from local buyers, there By Robert Wang
overall decline in prices. The biggest importer of Argentine tops was an incremental increase in
A
recorded gross value of sales for taking 5362.6 tons, followed by wool lots being stockpiled on s the Covid-19 pandemic breakdown revenue figures generated
the season came to R3,874.76 Peru at 1405 tons and Italy at 1185 farms over the year. In some cases has dragged on, the world by online shopping exist, the popularity
million. Of the total offerings at tons. farmers have 2 or even 3 years economy continues to suffer. of it is apparent almost everywhere
auction 98% was sold. production unsold, and this is the There is no exemption for
Over recent decades the in China these days. It has become
case for many mid micron and the wool textile industry. All
A large percentage of the clip, Argentinian wool industry has fashionable in modern society and it is
coarse wool producers. However, countries that traditionally
56%, tested finer than 20μ. Around developed its sheep genetics so vibrant that it is no longer exclusive
demand was strong for wools finer
39% still falls in the medium-fine to a finer wool clip to meet the purchased Australian wool have barely to younger generations but the entire
than 20 microns.
category (20 - 22μ). demand of consumer markets been seen in the last 18 months except population has embraced it. In fact,
for more next-to-skin-friendly Also, lots with green label (SUL´s one nation, China. The amount of almost every single business in China
South Africa is primarily a grease clip preparation protocol) and with
wool fibres. Today, the fineness Australian wool bought by China has not will have to launch its own website and
wool exporter, with 55,096.8 on-farm certifications such as RWS
of the Argentina wool clip ranges been interrupted by the pandemic. In the last season, generate its own QR code to be able to compete and
metric tonnes of grease wool and GOTS achieved higher prices,
between 16.5 and 32.6 or above. more than 85% of the Australian wool clip ended up survive in the current environment. As a result of this
shipped during the year at a total similar to pre-pandemic levels.
40% of the clip has a fineness of in the Chinese wool textile pipeline. Furthermore, scenario, courier and delivery services are booming.
Free on Board (FOB) value of R4
19-21 microns. Overall, 60% of The new clip has started with pre- the domestic market has started to consume more
504.7 million. This represents an The above-metioned development may explain the
all Argentinian wool is exported lambing shearing and wools with and more high quality and luxurious wool products.
99.6% market share on the total reason why China has dominated the ultrafine and
as wool tops, 30.5% as greasy, good quality observed. Accredited One may wonder as to affordability by the Chinese
value of exports of R4 523.264 superfine Australian wool market in the last two years.
5.9% in form of noils and 3.2% shearing contractors are working consumer, as it has increased sharply. The answer is
million. The major destination was Not only has next to skin wear and quality sportswear
scoured. The remaining 0.4% are with a recently released mobile simple, online shopping!
China (79.63% of total) followed by become popular in China, but more importantly,
the Czech Republic (11.76%), Italy by-products such as burrs. app named “SIRO” to digitally Internet shopping has revolutionized the the prices have become more and more acceptable
(2.84%) and Bulgaria (2.68%). describe the type of wool in each contemporary lifestyle. It has made the consumer’s to the mass consumer. The latest June 2021 census
bale of each lot. life much easier, with enormous selectivity, prompt
Uruguay delivery and prices that are much more competitive
shows the population is slightly more than 1.4 billion
Argentina Wool production from Uruguay for and often cheaper. From manufacturers to consumers,
notwithstanding increasing aging.
Federación Lanera Argentina the 2021/22 season is estimated
USA when extravagant mark-ups by wholesalers and The bulk of the population will still be the main
(FLA) estimates wool production to be similar to the previous 2020 wool production was 10,478 retailers no longer exist, the end users become the power driving the world economy forward into the
in Argentina July 2020 to July year: about 24 million kilograms metric tonnes greasy weight for ultimate benefactor. Compared this with 5 years ago, foreseeable future. It needs to be stressed again that
2021 at 40,670 tons. Domestic greasy. A recent report published 5,449 metric tonnes clean weight. when price mark-ups from manufacturer to end users with the application of digital technology, traditional
consumption was 4,611 tons. by SUL based on information of The extreme drought and heat in could be as high as 300%, online shopping has created ways of thinking and traditional ways of doing business
Exports in greasy was 30,257.00 pre-sale measurements of last the west and south west of the US, huge saving for the consumer. If merchandise with the will have to change to cope. It is clear that Covid-19
tons, clean 17,777.00 tons. Wool season’s ´figures showed, on areas of major wool production, same quality and same brand sold in shops for $300 pandemic has changed the world not temporarily but
production for 2021/2022 is average, Merino wool had 19.3 lead us to expect a drop. It is per piece, today’s price would be just $50. Therefore, forever.
estimated at 42,290 tons. microns and 76.9 % of washing difficult to estimate production no doubt, the demand by Chinese consumers for
Argentina is the fifth largest wool yield and Corriedale wool had 27.1 in 2021, but it could easily be a quality goods has been increasing dramatically over
producer in the world. The sheep microns and 79.3 % of washing drop of 3% to approximately 5,286 the past few years. The early lockdowns in China have
population is expected to reach yield. An increasing portion of metric tonnes clean. facilitated such consumer behaviour.
13,348 million head in 2021/22. the Uruguayan wool clip is being
It is also very difficult to estimate In fact, most of the developed markets have also
The main wool producing regions objectively tested.
2022 production until 2021 sheep experienced this fundamental change in consumer
is Argentina are Chubut: 25.64%, COVID caused a negative impact numbers and wool production behaviour. However, the magnitude of today’s life
Santa Cruz: 18.97%, and Buenos to the value of wool exports is known, but the best estimate style change in China has become the pivotal force to
Aires: 15.40%. compared to 2019. In 2020 the is likely to be a further 2% maintaining the economic growth. The latest figure
China has been the dominant reduction was 52.6% for tops, reduction in production on the shows that the GDP from China in the second quarter
buyer of greasy wool from 58.2% for scoured wool and 32.5% 2021 estimate. of this year reached 7.9%. Although, no detailed

The long-term view is more concerning. There is one with the CSIRO and the University of Melbourne.
thing that Covid-19 has taught us, and that is, we can We are halfway through a four-year project and there
work remotely and reasonably effectively from home. are great signs of progress in not only drastically
That translates to less demand for tailored textiles. So reducing the reproduction of flies, but also finding
Q&A
if you are an office worker and you normally have 5 a synthetic delivery system for the vaccine. If, and
suits but you are going into the office 3 days a week it is a big if, we get an effective treatment for this
instead of 5 it makes sense that you buy a new suit lethal condition, that will be a great thing. Another
less often. Of course, this is new territory so we don’t interesting project is the development of smart ear
Stuart McCullough CEO AWI know how much of an impact it will have on the wool tags for sheep.
with Victor Chesky market, but it will have an impact for sure. That’s
The process of developing light weight solar powered
why we are keen to see the development of wool in
tags that send back real time information on the
more casual wear, more sporting apparel, and more
behaviour of sheep is progressing well. Researchers
athleisure wear, whether it is leggings or base layers.
A
are using the ear tags to develop alerts that detect
We are especially heartened by the strong demand in
animal health concerns such as wild dog attacks and
ll wool producing countries have been China and that ranges over everything from uniforms
disease detection. These ear tags will also enable
affected by the Covid-19 pandemic. for postal worker and railway staff, right through to
woolgrowers to track, monitor, and assess the status
Shutdowns, order cancellations, closure ladies fashion. Nonetheless the price for wool has of their flock in real time – and make more informed
of retail outlets, and cancellations of trade recovered from the lows of last year and we see a real decisions to increase their enterprise’s profitability.
shows and exhibitions, have all contributed degree of optimism for the future in terms of sales.
to the disruptions to trade. What would you say are key issues for the wool
Has Covid-19 impacted on-farm R & D projects in industry will need to face in the next 3-5 years?
But the sheep continue to grow wool and the
Australia?
Australian wool industry continued to trade. Initially Consumers are increasingly concerned about the
wool exporters experienced a sharp drop in both Some on-farm research was disrupted by Covid-19. environmental impact created by the clothes they
demand and prices but this was very short-lived, At times travel was an issue, particularly interstate wear. They want to know where the fibre is from,
and the resilience and the speed that wool prices travel in Australia. However the data review aspect how it was made, and by whom, and then what
recovered have surprised everyone. of research was largely unaffected. Our number one happens after it is worn. That is a good thing for wool
We do have concerns about some markets due to
priority for on-farm research remains a vaccine for because wool has a great story to tell. It is sustainable,
Covid-19 particularly traditional markets for tailored
I asked Stuart McCullough CEO AWI, the peak body flystrike. It is something we are working on closely biodegradable and recyclable. Wool is the best natural
apparel in Europe and more casual wear in the North
that represents most wool growers in Australia, how
American markets. We think the US and the UK will
current issues have affected AWI projects, both on-
recover faster simply because their vaccination roll
farm and overseas, and how he sees traditional wool
outs are going to be the front runners in returning to
consuming markets are regaining momentum. work and to returning to normality.
It is difficult to say what a traditional market is
Do you see permanent changes to consumer buying
anymore. For the last 10 years China has been buying
patterns beyond Covid-19?
in excess of 60% of the Australian wool clip. Today it
buys more than 90%, so we are heavily dependent I think the first thing we will see in their autumn/
on China, and will continue to be, simply because winter (August September), as vaccination roll outs
they are a perfect processor of wool and a perfect continue to track well, will be a period of celebration.
consumer of wool. In particular, the US and the UK will be largely free to
do what they wish by autumn/winter. We think they
It has taken Australia over 50 years, not 5, to build will celebrate and have that birthday, that wedding,
this special relationship with China. China is a very that memorial service, that they couldn’t have in
important market. Half of all the wool we export to the last 18 months. If you were locked up at home in
China is processed for the domestic market in China, sloppy gear for the last 18 months you might want to “Merino: the Treasure Wool” - Woolmark
that is increasingly affluent and growing rapidly. Wool go out and get dressed up. We think tailored textiles, Launches First Brand Campaign in China
is also well suited to their local climate. in particular, will be bolstered short-term. with Three Luxurious Sheep Sisters

• Digital certificates available for sharing with
customers.
• On demand Account Management available for
every technical and marketing requirement.
The first portal is available in English, Korean,
Simplified Chinese, and Japanese.
The worsted sector has been particularly hard-

hit over Covid-19. Does AWI have any marketing
campaigns running in this space?
Like many businesses, especially those involved
in textiles, the last twelve months have been very
challenging for AWI. Our marketing efforts have
been drastically cut back and focused on China.
That strategy has been the right approach because
China’s economy was the first to bounce back from
Covid-19. We’ve had a number of projects running in
China including “Merino: the Treasure Wool” and a
promotion around Goddess Day. Both of these were
driven via TMALL, the online retail giant. The Treasure
Wool promotion had more than 580 million online
views and saw a spike in sales of clothing for our retail
partners.
The next twelve months will see more focus in China.
fibre - it doesn’t break down into microplastics and Prices for broader wools have not been performing Going forward we are adding value and making it In the US we worked with Amazon on a promotion
easier for licensees. called Feel Merino and targeted the athleisure
pollute waterways or landfills. So, if you care about the as well as finer wools; does AWI have any specific
impact your fashion has on the planet wool should be market. It is a great advertisement as it has an Aussie
project to address this? The cancellation of face to face trade shows right grower Dave Ward working on his farm, as well as an
your number one choice. Manmade fibres are doing Why broader wools have not performed as well as across the world (except China) has underlined the American runner.
a lot of green washing, providing false impressions or finer wools is puzzling and we are trying to better need to have the best possible digital interaction with
misleading information about how environmentally understand that. Over the last twelve months knitwear industry. From July the my.Woolmark portal will make Environmental accreditation and traceability for
sound their products really are For example, using had a much smaller drop in sales compared to finer it easier for licensees. It provides direct access to the wool fibre is an important issue for the industry
recycled plastic bottles in clothing … some research is wools. But markets are always pricing forward – so Woolmark network from anywhere in the world. – could you please give us some idea what AWI is
showing that when that item is disposed of it is even it may be that broader wools will bounce back in the doing in this space?
worse to the environment in terms of microplastics. So for industry there are a number of benefits
near future. AWI supports all wool and wants every including: Traceability presents one of wool’s greatest
In Europe we are trying to secure a level-playing field bale sold and used, whether it is in a suit, knitwear, or • The ability to update and review profile and account opportunities. More and more customers want
for wool within EU apparel legislation and get wide- in a car seat. information. to know where their clothes come from. The AWI
reaching acceptance for Australian wool’s position as • Automated product testing forms to instantly owned WoolQ™ is the best platform to deliver end
an ecological solution for sustainable fashion. To that Licencing program run by AWI is an important
connect with authorised laboratories. to end certainty. WoolQ™ is a secure online platform
end we have joined with cotton as part of a natural aspect to its interaction with the industry – has the where woolgrowers, classers, brokers and buyers
• Digital marketing tips toolkits.
fibre alliance to make the case more strongly and pandemic affected the program? • Marketing images available for instant download. can access digital tools to support all stages of the
consistently about the environmental benefits of our We value all our licensees and so last year we • Quarterly State of the Market reports that provide wool-growing and selling cycle. WoolQ™ will provide
fibres. It is an important battle to win, if we don’t, announced a 50% reduction of the annual licence fee exclusive insights. the technology to allow traceability and provenance
man- made fibres will have a green label and wool a for the iconic Woolmark Certification Program due • Digital submission of marketing artworks for quick stories to be delivered to customers in an efficient and
red one and consumers will be turned off wool. to the economic disruption caused by the pandemic. production approvals. cost-effective format.

Sustainability Trends
Lead the Way for Wool
The pandemic has accelerated interest in living with less environmental impact.
Wool can offer exactly that. Dalena White reports on the work of the
International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO)
C
ongress 2021 celebrated the way environmental impacts are
the creation of the first calculated.
IWTO global wool trading
Because of this, wool and
standards 90 years Dalena White other natural fibres rank as less
before. Nearly a century
sustainable than synthetic, fossil-
later, the signs are clear:
initiatives for textiles cut across fuel based fibres. The IWTO,
soon trade will be tied to
the ministries for environment, through its Sustainable Practices
sustainability, and for textiles this
consumers, trade and industry. Working Group, is working to
may come sooner rather than later.
In the mix are incentives that level the playing field by actively
Textiles have been targeted by participating in the EU’s product
encourage circular design,
the European Union as a priority environmental footprinting
plans to scale up recycling, and
sector, seen as key in the transition project. The EU PEF project is a
whispers about consumer-facing
to a more sustainable and circular multi-stakeholder initiative that is
economy. The EU’s Green Deal environmental-impact labelling. developing environmental impact
vision is slowly taking shape, with This work has been keeping methodology for apparel and
a number of legislative initiatives the IWTO on its toes. Despite footwear sold in the EU.
due to emerge at the end of 2021 being natural, renewable, and The EU PEF initiative governs
and into 2022. biodegradable, wool must work methodology only, but it is
Just as clothing and other textile much harder to present its expected that it will be used for
goods permeate our lives, the EU’s sustainability credentials, due to the basis of consumer-facing
20 | wool2yarnglobal 2021
Trusted for
more than
labelling in the EU. Key among the more than 100 years. With the IWTO members and partners
IWTO’s concerns are: shifts toward sustainability, the fund this work for the benefit of
interest in recycled wool yarn and the entire wool textile pipeline. It
• Renewability. Wool and other
50 years,
fabric has grown, to the extent is made available through open-
natural fibres are sustainable
that, due to frequent requests access agreements, after being
because they can be grown
for information, the IWTO has published in leading, peer-review
year after year, but this is not
the world’s
released a list of members who journals.
true of fossil fuel-based fibres,
and currently is not recognized offer these products.
Find listing of the most recent
within the footprinting. Easily accessible on iwto.org., the wool science on iwto.org/
most iconic
• Reward the positive. Positive Recycled Wool list is a compilation resources/wool-science/.
attributes such as renewability of product descriptions and
and biodegradability need to be contact information. Find it via Watch out for Wool
textile brand.
rewarded, in the drive toward our recycled wool page, iwto.org/ Many businesses in the wool
circularity. sustainability/recycled-wool/ textile supply chain are actively
• Capturing the end-of-life. At end responding to the signs that
of life, natural fibres biodegrade, Traceability change is coming. Several spoke
returning their nutrients As consumers begin to turn over at the IWTO’s annual Congress –
to nature to be used again. clothing labels and ask pertinent
videos of which are available on
Potentially, labelling would questions about the origins of their
YouTube on IWTOCHANNEL.
not capture this benefit. By purchases, makers and sellers have
a duty to provide transparent and As we expect change to continue
contrast, as we know, synthetic
fibre does not biodegrade, but truthful answers. In response to apace, we invite all readers
occupy landfill or, if incinerated, queries from brands and retailers, of Wool2Yarn to follow IWTO
release more carbon into the IWTO has developed a list of social media and sign up for our
atmosphere. members who offer traceable bimonthly newsletter – register
wool. to receive it directly on iwto.org. Highest quality Global technical support Brand recognition
• Microplastic fibres. Microplastic
Each system varies in scope and With this you’ll remain in the
fibre release – one of the topics
on which the public is most design, but all serve to deliver loop on the latest wool research Unrivalled quality Technical transfer, process 85% of consumers agree
informed – is currently not part transparency in the supply chain. developments, the ongoing PEF assurance to the supply and product development and the Woolmark symbol
of the EU’s impact assessment. The list can be downloaded from work, and IWTO’s annual events. chain and consumers supply chain optimisation ensures quality†
It needs to be. the IWTO website at: iwto.org/ †
Nielsen Brand Survey 2019
sustainability/traceability/. About the International Wool
Textile Organisation
Beyond PEF Wool Science Dalena White is Secretary General
Beyond PEF, there are a number of Research into wool and its of the IWTO. IWTO’s worldwide
important sustainability trends in properties is the basis of the membership represents the
wool to be aware of. IWTO’s work in sustainability, wool pipeline from farm to retail.
health and wellness, biosecurity By facilitating research and
Recycling and trade. This research is guided development and maintaining
As many in the trade are by specialised Technical Advisory textile industry standards, IWTO
aware, wool recycling has been Groups, under the leadership of ensures a sustainable future
commercially achievable for IWTO’s several working groups. for wool.
Seamless Merino cycling kit The
cycling bib
(the first layer)
has been created
The seam bonding used in
the garment construction was
developed in collaboration
for the female form with Italian company MACPI. It
Two new innovative prototype collections of cycling garments, developed by AWI with bra shaping that incorporates a very clean finish
gives support and
in collaboration with industry partners, illustrate the full potential of stretches with the body that eliminates any seam friction
Merino wool used in technical seamless performance apparel. to accommodate a range while also retaining the flexibility
of breast sizes. The mesh and movement needed during
pattern knit across the
torso and legs of the cycling.
T
bib creates a raised
he two collections, one comprising cycling garments for The fabrics in both collections structure for High quality reflective tape on the
women and the other for men, were developed using Merino benefit from Merino wool’s superior breathability and face of the fabric was created by
ventilation. heat transfer in close collaboration
wool yarns from Südwolle Group and knitted on state-of- the- softness, breathability, moisture
art knitting machines from Santoni. management, elasticity and odour with S.E.C. Accessories, a company
resistance. When combined with the The that works with the world’s leading
cycling arm sports brands.
latest technological advancements warmers feature a
in yarn development and knitting textured fabric with “Each of the yarns for the garments
technology, the Merino wool provides reflective detailing
and integrated grip at The have differing compositions,
the garments with superior comfort, the top of the sleeve to cycling socks weights and characteristics suited
durability and performance for the prevent slippage whilst have a detailed to provide optimal performance
the knit structure has knit pattern with
modern cyclist. shaping at the elbow for each particular garment,” said
reflective details
“These collaborations with leading for comfort and knitted into the cuff Stefan Schöffel of Südwolle Group.
bonded seams. (rather than bonded
industry players shine the light on how or printed on top)
technical advances in the industry can
create supremely functional garments
and a rib structured
footbed for comfort, Men’s collection
cushioning and The men’s seamless cycling
for high aerobic activities while breathability.
incorporating the natural benefits garments, comprising a cycling
of Merino wool,” said AWI General jersey and short, were developed
Manager, Processing Innovation & by AWI in collaboration with Hong
Education Extension, Julie Davies. Kong-based company Chemtax,
pairing a Merino yarn from
The garments are vastly more Women’s collection in the market, which provides a
Südwolle Group with Fulgar’s bio-
ecofriendly than their synthetic lighter weight material.
The women’s seamless cycling based EVO® yarn, and knitted using
counterparts. The eco-credentials garments were developed by AWI Key stitch structures include Santoni’s Top2 Fast technology.
of Merino wool – a 100% natural, in collaboration with innovative compression for performance and
renewable and biodegradable fibre recovery, an open structure for EVO® by Fulgar is a yarn derived
knitwear designer studio Studio from the castor plant that, like
that doesn’t produce microplastics ventilation and breathability, and
Eva x Carola. The collection Merino wool, is a totally renewable
– ensure a minimal environmental loft on both the inside and outside
comprises a cycling bib, jersey, arm resource. Plated together with the
footprint on the planet. of fabric for insulation and warmth.
warmers and socks, that together Südwolle Merino wool yarn, the
Furthermore, the seamless knitting create a complete, layered kit for “By smartly selecting the right two yarns create a very ecofriendly
technology reduces fabric waste ultimate cycling performance (see Merino wool yarns and creating product.
in comparison to traditional cut opposite page). beautiful textures and loft
structures, the garments not only A fine and high strength yarn, the
and sew methods – and due to its
The garments were knitted using EVO® by Fulgar provides extra
The short sleeve cycling jersey (the second layer), pictured above, has a piece-by-piece bulk production offer a gentle-on-the-skin comfort,
gradient yarn colour application with a closed mesh body for air movement and Santoni’s Top2 Fast technology stretchabilty to the product.
method, seamless knitting provides but also provide durability and
diverse density for breathability. The half-zip front and integrated pocket storage
at the back add functional benefits while the bonded seam finishing and the a high degree of flexibility and (single jersey machine) using a protection during your ride,” said More information: www.
seamless side adds comfort and performance benefits. personalisation. finer gauge to what is mainly used Eva de Laat of Studio Eva x Carola. woolmark.com/seamlesscycling

Speciality Fibres
hand knitting revival
Q&A
Luca Alvigini Alpha Tops
with Victor Chesky
N
o one could have predicted the events
that would turn the world upside down in
2020 and the use of speciality fibre in some
industry sectors have been affected more
than others. I asked Luca Alvigini of Alpha Tops in
Biella how the industry is performing now and where
is it heading? Alpha Tops is a leading supplier of Image courtesy Michell in Peru
Speciality Fibres for the textile industry and is part of a
multi-national group of companies that are involved in prices all doubled again, achieving and overtaking the Over the next two years we will see the demand for
topmaking and processing Alpaca, Mohair, Cashmere, pre-pandemic price levels of 2019. Alpaca fibre increasing due to its relatively cheap price
and Camel hair. compared to other speciality fibres such as Mohair.
‘I don’t think Covid has influenced consumer
‘The pandemic mainly affected the weaving sector, purchasing patterns and preferences for speciality ‘Environmental certifications, such as Responsible
and in particular, the classic menswear fabric fibres, but in my opinion it will create permanent Wool Standards (RWS) are taking hold across the
producers. During 2020 these producers experienced changes in formal menswear apparel. As already industry particularly for natural fibres such as wool.
a very sharp decrease in orders, and in some cases mentioned, weaving companies will have to afford Responsible Alpaca Standards (RAS) certification is
the drop was as much as 70%. The reasons for this this change in production towards more confortable now taking off as well and AIA/Ascalpe have instructed
drop are not only due to the lockdown and closing of clothing, approaching more casual wear, using more Textile Exchange to prepare the guidelines. So we
retail, but also to the changing trend to smart working jersey and less formal weaving. foresee the first RAS certified lots arriving onto the
attire. Those working from home, rather than in the market with the next clip (2021/22).
‘Major European brands are still extremely interested
more formal setting of an office, were obviously not
in speciality fibres and in some markets sales are ‘For us at Alpha Tops the main aim for Alpaca is to
interested in buying suits and jackets, jogging suits
already above 2019 levels’. generate shared values in sustainability and industry
have been more appropriate to the informal home
standards. Our farms and operation centres have
setting. But we had a real boom in knitting, and above
their doors open to clients, visitors, authorities and
all in the hand knitting sector. The hand knitting revival Alpaca certifiers at any time. That transparency is what
has surprised operators and the demand achieved ‘Alpaca production for 2020/21 has been very stable ensures the welfare of the animal and the reliability of
levels not seen since the eighties. Knitwear production at around 7 million kgs greasy. Alpaca is one of the the products’.
has been very active and replacing demand for woven most versatile fibres for any use and is already used
fabrics. for hand knitting, knitting and weaving for men’s and
‘So we had a decrease in activity in turnover of around women’s wear and also for furniture fabric (velvet). Cashmere
30%, mostly due to the lack in demand and raw We foresee the clip will remain stable, but it should ‘The production of Cashmere in China continued to
material prices. During the first quarter of 2021 these Luca Alvigini be pointed out that the clip is constantly getting finer. decline in 2020/21. We expect a decrease of 20% in

Uruguayan Wooltops
If you are looking for the best,
just contact us!
Vicuña in highlands of Peru
China (Inner Mongolia). But Outer As such it is a very controlled ‘It is difficult to foresee that this
Mongolia continued to increase its market and much government trend will continue but I don’t think
production again for 2021/22 and documentation (CITES) by grower that the prices will drop drastically. Achieving the best in
we expect it to stabilize at present countries is required before any It is more likely to remain at this environmental preservation.
export is achieved. However, level until the next season. Investing over US$9 million
levels. Overall production is
in self-supply water and
approximately 8/9 mil kgs in Outer the demand is still good and ‘South African Mohair has been effluent treatment
Mongolia and 5/6 mil kgs ex China production is stable.’ working with Textile Exchange
(greasy basis). to offer Responsible Mohair
Standards (RMS) and this is now a
‘We see the demand for Cashmere Mohair reality. More and more clients are
fibre to be strong and particularly Best farm practices - natural
‘Mohair, like Alpaca, is a very asking for this despite the higher grass pastures, clean water
concentrated in the knitwear
versatile fibre, applied in all costs and we at Alpha Tops can supply, weekly controls and
sector’.
possible textile sectors, from now offer many certified lots to veterinary care, no mulesing
furniture to hand knitting and our customers. Lanas Trinidad
Vicuna fantasy yarns. Mohair prices have
‘I believe that the consequences
‘Vicuña is an even rarer fibre
been rising in recent months.
of Covid, both in economic and Lanas Trinidad S.A.
than Cashmere. The main grower ‘The recent increase is due to 2047 Calle Miami,
personal terms, have been an Delivering 15 - 32 micron
countries are Peru, Argentina two main reasons: a constant 11500 Montevideo, Uruguay combed wool top in rolls and
opportunity to rethink our lives
Phone: 598 2601 0024 bumbs in different weights all
and Bolivia. The clip is taken only decrease of production (3,5mil kgs and habits. I am persuaded that E-mail: [email protected] year around
once every two years. Around 5/6 worldwide, 2,2mil kgs South Africa, our marvellous rare and natural
tons per year is available and as a greasy basis), due to the drought; fibres will maintain and increase www.lanastrinidad.com
consequence it is indeed the most and a high demand generated from their role in the textile world as a
expensive natural fibre available. hand knitting and knitting. sustainable product’.
t he textile industry
has been dealing with
issues around sustainability
for many years. The circular
economy is a concept, whereby
production processes including
reducing and eliminating waste and
pollution, and using regenerative
agricultural practices, help toward
sustainable manufacturing and
consumption.
In addition to growing consumer
products. But it has been at an
historic disadvantage when it
comes to environmental ratings
agencies that have rated wool
poorly against synthetic fibres,
as they do not account for
factors such as being natural,
biodegradable, and renewable.
This rating is important when
major retail brands choose the
fibre for the products they sell. It
is also an important issue as the
EU is now putting policies in place
demand around sustainability
to have environmental labelling
there is also pressure from
on consumer products including
government regulatory bodies,
apparel.’
in particular an initiative by the
European Commission’s - European Wool has unique characteristics
Green Deal and Circular Economy that make it an ideal fibre to fit
Action Plan. This will introduce into the principles that encompass
regulatory laws to force the the circular economy model better
fashion industry to adopt the than any man-made fibres used
circular economy principle. It will in textiles today. Unlike plastic
particularly affect fast fashion and based materials, natural fibres are
address waste and pollution within a renewable and biodegradable
the textile industry. Its long-term resource, employing regenerative
objective is to shift the textile agriculture practices, and well-
industry to produce longer lasting, disposed to waste and pollution
reusable, and recyclable products. control.
It is also expected that by During the past ten years AWI,
2022, products for sale in the through IWTO, has been funding
European Union (EU) will be research to improve the body of
required to include a label that Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) studies
Circular Economy
provides consumers with the and provide a more scientific
EU’s assessment of a product’s and technical analysis of wool’s
environmental credentials. ‘This is environmental benefits. Last year
both a risk and an opportunity for the first cradle-to-grave LCA of a
following natures lead wool,’ comments Angus Ireland,

AWI. ‘Wool is well placed to
take advantage of the increasing
textile fibre was published in the
Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, a
peer-reviewed journal. This work
demand for more earth-friendly continues.

Pressure from retail consumers we must directly address
has forced brands to lead the responsibility for the
way in this space. But as wool wellbeing of our planet. It is
production travels a long way no longer acceptable to kick
from farm to retail the concept this issue down the road
of a circular economy must apply and think it can be dealt
at all stages. So how does the with at some other time.
early wool processor embrace this Social justice and worker
concept into its wool production welfare, regenerative
and still deliver a quality product agriculture and animal
and remain competitive? welfare, are issues that the
buyer at retail is demanding
One wool processor in Uruguay
information about, for
has managed to do just that, and
every garment they buy’.
has been working to achieve one
of the highest environmental ‘The covid pandemic
scores. Lanas Trinidad was the has created a re-set for
first company in Latin America many retail buyers. The
to be awarded ANDE (Agencia fast fashion, one season
Nacional para el Desarrollo garment is making way for
Sostenible - National Agency the more considered purchase of
for Sustainable Development) better quality, for longer use’, says certified by Chargeurs. Lanas
and PAGE UN (Partnership for Pedro Otegui. ‘Under a Circular Trinidad’s traceability system
Action on Green Economy - a Economy model, we strive to allows the wool to be tracked
United Nations program) with take care of this superb natural throughout the industrial process,
the Circular Economy Trophy. This and organic fibre, from our green from the farm to the customer. It
award recognised Lanas Trinidad’s grasslands throughout the supply only uses biodegradable, organic
achievements in 100% waste water chain. Lanas Trinidad is not only and antistatic compounds in the
reuse including irrigation of its tree committed to animal welfare and wool combing process.
plantation, and recognition for responsible land management, but The company uses organic and
reduced electricity use - 20-30% also to a good stewardship of the biodegradable detergents in its
of electricity used to run the mill environment and generation of wool scouring. Its scoured wool
is derived from its own waste and energy from renewable resources can be either GOTS-certified by
renewable sources. coming from its waste water Ecocert, RWS-certified by Textile
treatment process. Exchange and/or Nativa-certified
The company has reduced its
greenhouse gas emissions by 95%, in a sustainable way,’ says Pedro and there is also a clear business Lanas Trinidad makes wool tops by Chargeurs. In addition, Lanas
it only uses non-mulesed wool in ranging from 16.5 to 32 microns Trinidad offers greasy wool, in its
Otegui of Lanas Trinidad. advantage for individual companies
its production, and its scouring and offers bobbins or bumps of raw state, as it comes from fully Pedro Otegui, Lanas Trinidad
to go green!’. Operating a circular
For many years Lanas Trinidad certified farms, sorted by quality to
process only uses rain water. ‘We economy may be new and different weights, customised
has been a great example for customer requirement. fashion and one season throwaway
do not take a linear approach aspirational for many but for Lanas for its clients. The company also
sustainability, creating an efficient, garments are losing their appeal
but rather our business and the Trinidad it is a business model that produces organic combed wool ‘Our industry needs to embrace
eco-friendly business, while still in favour of better quality and
people we employ and live with, tops under GOTS-certification the circular economy principles.
has long been in place. reduced environmental impact’,
the environment we inhabit, and providing a high quality product. by Ecocert. It’s combed wool It is precisely what brands and
‘We have to deliver future He further comments that ‘as Pedro Otegui concludes.
the animals we nurture, provide tops can be either RWS-certified fashion industry designers,
the principle guidelines for us to generations a better environment the world is re-focusing its (Responsible Wool Standard) by manufacturers, retailers and end For more information
achieve responsibly grown wool than the one we inherited long ago attention from a linear approach Textile Exchange and/or Nativa- consumers are demanding. Fast www.lanastrinidad.com

A view from China
necessities and 80% to improve their standard of living
- and clothing is a big part of this. Therefore the future
is looking good’, Mr Wen says.
‘The Chinese wool textile industry has been running
really positively, particularly for ultra-fine and
superfine wool for knitwear products. Most of these
products are for next-to-skin wear. The traditional
sweater market for ladies-wear is also going well’.
‘Traditional export markets for Tianyu, such as Europe,
Japan and North America are still very passive’, he
comments. ‘It seems that these countries are still
Quignan Wen and son Tony at Lal Lal Estate in Victoria struggling to get the pandemic under control before
focusing on consumer demand. At this stage there
T
has been little sign to indicate true demand from
he Chinese economy has been the first to
these countries. However, I do envisage that when the
recover from Covid-19. The textile industry in
traditional customer in Europe does come back, next-
China is performing well and is back to pre-
to-skin products in particular, will be in good demand’.
Covid-19 levels. Demand is particularly firm for
knitting types, and especially in the finer range. China ‘I believe that Covid-19 has triggered a change in
continues to dominate wool buying from Australia and buyer behaviour, and accelerated consumer online
one of the largest consumers of this wool is TianYu. shopping. On-line shopping has become a real force
being embraced by consumers in China and around
TianYu’s annual output of scoured wool is 80,000
the world. This has strengthened demand, and we
tons, with a top making capacity of 28,000 tons yearly,
can see this in next-to-skin wear for leisure and sport,
and the annual process capacity of Superwash/TEC/
areas of clothing of great interest to young people in
Basolan treated capacity is over 10,000 tons per year.
particular. The biggest advantage in internet shopping
Mr Qing nan Wen is also a wool grower and owner
is the reduction in the length of the supply chain. It
of Lal Lal Estate near Ballarat in Victoria Australia,
removes the “middleman”, and in turn the products
growing some of the best Australian wool. The farm
become largely affordable for the mass consumer. And
is 2000ha and stocked with 17,000 sheep. Mokanger
of course this is also an incentive to the manufacturer
and Lowana farms are his latest farm acquisitions in
to look to this market with greater confidence’.
Australia. This gives Mr Wen a unique perspective on
the industry, which stretches from wool growing to ‘Given these ongoing structural changes, fine merino
wool processing and beyond. Victor Chesky asked Mr wool will still be in high demand in the foreseeable
Wen about his views on wool prices, demand, and the future. Therefore, in my view, wool prices around
importance of China as a global processing hub post- world for apparel fibre will keep going up’.
Covid-19. ‘As a wool grower we have invested $10 million into
‘I am very confident that the industry is doing well Lal Lal Estate to improve the pastures, sheep genetics
and can see future growth. Wool is more comfortable and wool productivity. We plan similar improvements
than cotton, and more versatile, and the potential for at our Mokanger and Lowana farms. We will continue
growth in China alone is enormous. There are 400- to implement the best farming techniques to show
500 million middle class consumers in China and this that wool growing in Australia can be profitable, and
is growing fast. They spend 20% of their income on still deliver superior quality wool,’ he concludes.
Wool Integrity schemes
human need to touch and try and some 10% of the world’s carbon that they buy from and the stories
interact in person? emissions and nearly 20% of the they can tell. What they buy and
A McKinsey & Company report world’s water waste. According what they wear is more than
found that 57% of shoppers to several United Nations groups just fashion. It is about creating
L
have made significant changes an estimated 85% of the world’s a connection between where
ast year wool2yarn All major wool growing countries, But it would be impossible not textiles end up in landfills or are things come from and the ethics
global featured Part 1 of including New Zealand, South to touch on the impact that to their lifestyles to lessen their
environmental impact and 64% incinerated. These statistics are behind the product they become.
this report on integrity Africa, and Australia, are the covid pandemic is having making headlines, and fabric
decreased their spending in Throwaway cheap garments are
schemes and quality implementing industry standards on the industry and the trends
clothing and footwear during and clothing manufacturers not what this consumer wants
assurance programs, that may see a transition it has created. Casualisation is
the pandemic. Mindful shoppers now require more transparent today.
focusing on self-managed toward common standards for a consequence of our shifting
are pushing brands to produce information about the traceability
industry programs. We outlined the wool industry worldwide. lifestyles and ethical fashion The world is moving from linear
more ecofriendly products, and to and sustainability of products
such models as GOTS, RWS, If such a standard is possible for sustainability is central. The to circular production to eliminate
provide proof. It is predicted that as demanded by their retail
Bluesign and others. This year it will definitely simplify the mindset of retail consumers is waste. Manufacturers are looking
sustainable fashions will reach customers.
the report will cover the work acceptance by consumers of changing. Are we buying less towards more regenerative
that is taking place in specific $9.81 billion in 2025 and $15.17 The millennial retail consumer models of production. And
wool’s environmental credentials but demanding better quality? Is
wool growing countries and the billion in 2030. today expects information to it starts at the grower level.
and also simplify the purchase online buying a new norm or will
growing demand for independent and movement of wool through stores be able to draw customers The industry must face the facts be at their fingertips. They are Recycled, recyclable, renewable,
standards and schemes. the production chain. back to recreate the essential that fashion is responsible for interested in these companies and biodegradable – these are
Image courtesy of REDA

some of the outcomes main wool areas for improvement, and better Australia Chair said. ‘The Australian Wool Standards (RWS) is growing Refer to page 42 for article on NZ Federation (FLA), Marco Gallia,
growing countries and regions are communicate with customers and Sheep Sustainability Framework in popularity, with all major wool National Standards. says, ‘we were a pioneer in
aspiring to create and sustain. See consumers. Its role is to monitor, has been designed and developed exporters in Australia now offering certifying Organic and RWS. The
article on Circular Economy page measure, and report the Australian so our sheep industry can best RWS certified wool. first volumes started in 2008.
30. South Africa
sheep industry’s performance harness these opportunities.’ Today we export more than 3
against sustainability priorities. In a major move this year, Cape million kg of certified greasy and
Steven Read, CEO of Michell Wool Producers Australia New Zealand Wools announced that it has
Australia, comments, this is still increasing. The future
It has identified 21 priorities President, Ed Storey, agreed, In a major move for strong wools, signed agreements with
‘Notwithstanding the turbulent challenge is to develop official
relevant to sustainable sheep saying with consumer trends New Zealand has introduced a new G Schneider Group (Authentico
times over the last 18 months, (private/state) certifications aiming
production in Australia, which have and demand, there was a real National Standard for Wool. This Integrity Scheme) and Segard
as a result of Covid-19, the trend to reduce costs and create a
been classed into four themes: opportunity for Australia’s sheep certification will introduce a single Masurel (Abelusi Wool scheme) “State Policy Strategy” for the
towards tractability, sustainability
caring for our sheep; enhancing industry to better articulate its multi-sector assurance standard, to recognise the Sustainable Cape sector. Discussions are underway.
and certification has continued
to grow. While this did start, the environment and climate; sustainability story, with improved to drive consistency in grower Wools Standard on their platforms, There is a national animal welfare
at least for wool, as part of an looking after our people, our transparency a critical part of that standards and provide a platform joining RWS wools as a recognised protocol that has been discussed
animal welfare matter, other customers and the community; success. for the standardisation of New certified source of sustainable, and accepted by various entities
parts of the textile sector were ensuring a financially resilient Zealand wool, which can command traceable wool from South Africa. related to sheep farming’.
‘To me, being transparent is
seeing this develop around industry. a price premium for the benefit of
the key to the Australian sheep Deon Saayman CEO of Cape Wools,
sweatshop manufacturing and growers and accredited companies
The Sustainability Framework industry seizing our opportunities
environmentally damaging in the value chain. said, ‘We operate in a global United Kingdom
covers on-farm (including and maximising the benefits,” Mr world and for buyers of South
processing. This is a global trend It is expected that this program will To meet the growing demand in
feedlots), transport (including Storey said. “Having this industry- African wool to have confidence
covering all fibres in the textile generate long-term sustainable traceability and the provenance of
live sheep exports), saleyards and led Framework means that we in our fibre it is important to have
sector and indeed most raw products British Wool is launching
Australian sheep meat and wool will provide an open and honest returns for all New Zealand trusted and uniform standards in
materials and manufacturing of a new 100% traceable wool
processors. However, it is expected picture of our high standards of wool types, both domestically traceability that is transparent.
consumers goods. scheme that traces the origin of
the boundary of the Framework practice and performance using and internationally. All leading South African wool merino clip the wool from the farm gate to the
‘Wool and in particular Australian will extend to cover overseas the most appropriate and robust exporters and brokers have joined
already has the advantage of shop floor. Refer to page 56 for
wool has a good story to tell - processing sectors within the next data available.’ this scheme, as have over 6500
providing a mulesed free clip, article on BW Provenance.
indeed putting alternate fibres and three years. wool growers.
This information program is and these agreements will add
also wool from other origins to
Craig Smith, chairman of the simplicity and uniformity for
shame. As an industry we need to The performance of the sheep not, in itself, a unified standard
National Council of New Zealand buyers of South African wool
Uruguay
ensure this message cuts through industry in these areas, tracked to measure the environmental
Wool Interests (NCNZWI), said around the world’. Refer to Excellent environmental conditions
to consumers with the support of over time, will provide evidence credentials of Australian wool, but
it was ‘a great opportunity for full article on Cape Wools have always created favourable
apparel brands and in the home of the industry’s commitment to it is a step in the right direction, if
textile sectors as well. And in doing continuous improvement. It will the industry decides to implement the wool industry to leverage off announcement page 58.
so it makes the system transparent, demonstrate that Australia has a unified program as has been this foundation and establish a
commercially viable, and easy to complementary National Standard
a clear path towards sustainably done in New Zealand.
for wool. The development of Argentina
use’. produced sheep meat and wool.
But buyers of Australian wool do a unified New Zealand wool Argentina is one of the five major
‘Increasing access to markets and have a number of independent assurance standard will support wool producing and exporting
Australia investment, building confidence certification schemes. increased differentiation and countries in the world. It was one
In April the Australian sheep in the integrity of sheep meat Sustainawool operated by AWEX, demand for New Zealand wool of the first to embrace Organic and
and wool industry launched the and wool products, enhancing is the largest program, with more in the global marketplace. The RWS certifications for its wool. Two
world’s first Sheep Sustainability community trust and better than 1000 accredited growers and program is operated independently major exporters Lempriere and
Framework. It was initiated by rewarding industry are some of the supply chain partners. from the participants and so Fuhrmann (G Schneider Group)
Australia’s sheep industry leaders opportunities we have as a result G Schneider’s Authentico has eliminates any conflict of interest export greasy wool and tops that
to demonstrate the industry’s of this growing consumer interest,’ more than 600 accredited fine that could be present in a self- are Organic and RWS certified.
sustainable practices, identify Mr Mirams Sheep Producers wool growers, and Responsible run and self-managed scheme’. The President of Argentine Wool

growing conditions for wool
growers in Uruguay. The latest
making process today. Up to 89%
of customers consider the ethical
Association is also well known
as one of the first U.S. livestock Chemical residue level testing in wool
I
figures from Uruguayan Wool profile and sustainability of brands groups to develop animal care
Secretariat (SUL) show RWS and before making a purchase. From guidelines. Today those early nternational environmental agencies demand in New Zealand using patented equipment and
Green Label certified wools get shoes and handbags to furniture guidelines have evolved to become strict regulations relating to chemical (pesticide) processes. These systems are independently reviewed
higher prices. Uruguay produces and insulation, questions including the American Wool Assurance residue levels in wool. NZWTA Ltd and Agrifood and accredited by the National Association of Testing
100% mulesed free wool and where does a product come (AWA) Standards. Technology Ltd (Australia) have expanded their Authorities (NATA) and International Accreditation
animal husbandry practices are from and how was it made are capabilities to analyse chemical residues in raw New Zealand (IANZ).
Developed in conjunction with wool samples from anywhere in the world. This
considered some of the best in the increasingly present and important
Colorado State University and is a positive addition to the extensive range of services Flammability testing on fabrics and building products
world. All four topmakers provide to business.
in accordance with the Five offered by both laboratories, and continues to support NZWTA also offers various forms of flammability
credentials that are RWS and GOTS
American wool producers have Freedoms, these assurances not both domestic and international wool trade through testing services to support the wider textiles and
certified.
taken center stage with their only help American wool growers the provision of accurate, timely and cost efficient building materials industries. Until recently its scope
answers to these questions and continually improve how to residue testing. of accredited tests was relatively small. A recent
USA also in their dedication to animal best care for their animals and
Agrifood Technology, based in Melbourne, Australia review of NZWTA operations and services has seen
The newly introduced American welfare. As any multi-generational their bottom line, but they also an investment into new testing equipment which
is the only testing facility in the world with ISO 17025
Wool Assurance Program has American wool producer will tell provide confidence to buyers and accreditation status for the chemical analysis of raw has allowed us to extend our suite of accredited
been designed to build consumer you, proper sheep care is not discerning customers the world wool residues under the IWTO standard DTM-59. flammability tests. This accreditation will provide
confidence in proper animal care. only good for sheep, it’s essential over that American wool products Conducted under license from the CSIRO, analysis customers with confidence in our test results and
Animal welfare is a major factor in for the health of their business. are created using best practices of is performed on extracts taken from wool samples knowledge involved in these tests.
the consumer’s purchase decision- The American Sheep Industry animal care and handling.
New appointment at NZWTA Schoeller yarns - always one step ahead
N
ew Zealand Wool Testing to a degree in soils and geology, with a
Authority (NZWTA) first job out of university in Southland,
welcomes David Alexander NZ, then to Tasmania in Australia and
to the team. He takes agricultural experience in Western
on the role of Customer Australia, Queensland and New Zealand. • sustainable
Services Manager, replacing
David spent 14 years in the organic • innovative
Phil Cranswick, well known in this role
and natural foods industry in business
who retired earlier this year. David is
committed to the natural products sector,
development and supply chain • ethical
management. Most recently David’s
with wide experience in integrity systems experience included Covid logistical • reliable
and value adding through wool and challenges, importing from 14 different
textile testing. ‘I am delighted to be in a space where countries and improving the sustainability of this
we can partner with great people developing natural business around packaging and waste.
fibres into products that bring significant benefits to
NZWTA provides testing and certification for the
consumers and the environment at the same time’ he
international wool and textile industry. It is a leading
says.
testing house that offers a comprehensive range of
David grew up on a lifestyle farm near Pukekohe, tests including fibre, fabric, carpets, flammability, and
South of Auckland, always involved in farm work and wool grease. It is a member of Interwoollabs and is a www.schoeller-wool.com An Indorama Ventures Company
organic vegetable production. His interest spread licensed IWTO laboratory.

present in a self-run and self- Zealand wool industry from farm to
managed scheme. It will comply broker to merchant, and scourer to
with all requirements set out by exporter, because they see value in
the “Five Freedoms”’, he says. independent certified wool for the
The programme has been industry. It will be very positive for
embraced by major exporters of our industry’.
New Zealand wool. ‘We were one Bloch & Behrens NZ was one of
of the first companies to initiate the first companies to introduce its
a national quality assurance own New Zealand Wool Integrity
programme for New Zealand wool. Scheme. ‘We feel very positive
We believe it is a very positive about the new New Zealand
programme for crossbred wools quality assurance programme.
and will lift the profile of New It will complement our existing
Craig Smith, chairman
National Council of New Zealand Wool Zealand wool worldwide. It is scheme and will provide buyers
Interests (NCNZWI) affordable and easy to implement of New Zealand wool with
independent auditing from farm’,
NEW ZEALAND LAUNCHES

“
This programme will create a unified New Zealand wool
says Palle Petersen.
Peter Crone Managing Director of
John Marshal & Co, a New Zealand
assurance standard for all users and increase differentiation owned wool exporting company,
NATIONAL STANDARD FOR WOOL and demand for New Zealand wool in the global marketplace. endorses the new standard 100%.
”
‘I see this as a genuine move to
ensure “value-add” for our wool
New Zealand is home to some of the world’s strongest and whitest wool. This wool is used growers. A collaboration of like-
extensively around the world for carpet and interior textiles. While the finer Merino wool sector create a unified New Zealand wool and we are pleased to be part mined persons is creating a New
has been embracing a range of integrity schemes, the strong wool sector has not been so assurance standard for all users of it’, says Peter Christensen of Zealand brand for wool, providing
active in this space – until now! The introduction of an independent and standardised quality and increase differentiation and Schneider New Zealand. the highest standards across the
demand for New Zealand wool in board for a variety of factors
assurance programme for New Zealand wool is good news for growers, exporters, and ‘For the last 2-3, years the New including traceability, sustainability
the global marketplace’.
customers worldwide. This programme will promote the environmental credentials of New Zealand wool industry has been and animal welfare. This is
To date, 23 leading New Zealand receiving clear signals from its
Zealand wool and further enhance its image as a fibre of choice for carpet and interior textiles. incredibly positive and a win-win
wool companies and about 6,500
T
customer base that it requires for every sector in the wool chain.’
wool growers have already joined verification that the animals
he New Zealand Certification will introduce a single This programme will join the Philippa Wright, Wright Wool.
the programme. ‘Membership from where their wool is sourced
National Standard multi-sector assurance standard, existing assurance programme of the NZFAP means that all Bremworth is a major New
have been well treated. So this
for Wool has been to drive consistency in grower already in place for the New wool companies that sign up will Zealand wool carpet manufacturer
programme will ensure that
established under the standards and provide a platform Zealand meat industry, and already immediately have access to Farm recently announced that its carpet
certification is now available’, says
existing New Zealand for the standardisation of New encompassing most sheep farms Assured Wool from these 6,500 production would be 100% wool.
Geoff Deakins, CEO of NZ Wool
Farm Assurance Zealand wool, which can command in New Zealand. Craig Smith, properties’, says Craig Smith. ‘The A company spokesperson said:
Services International, the largest
Programme (NZFAP) and will a price premium for the benefit of chairman of the National Council collaboration enables the wool ‘NZFAP provides assurance to
wool export company in New
provide assurance to users of growers and accredited companies of New Zealand Wool Interests industry members to adopt the consumers about the integrity,
Zealand.
New Zealand wool about its in the value chain. It is expected (NCNZWI), said ‘It was a great NZFAP as a NZ National Standard traceability, biosecurity,
integrity, traceability, biosecurity, that this programme will generate opportunity for the wool industry for wool. The programme is Rosstan Mazey of WoolWorks, the environmental sustainability, and
environmental sustainability, and long-term sustainable returns for to leverage off this foundation and operated independently from the only wool scouring company in animal health and welfare of New
animal health and welfare of New all New Zealand wool types, both establish this National Standard participants and so eliminates any New Zealand, says ‘this scheme Zealand’s primary sector products.
Zealand sheep. domestically and internationally. for Wool. This programme will conflict of interest that could be has united all sectors of the New By signing up to NZFAP, as we

“
Sectors of the New Zealand wool industry from farm
are now New Zealand’s only 100%
pure wool carpet manufacturer, we
can additionally provide customers
with a product where the wool has
to broker to merchant, and scourer to exporter because
met traceability, authentic origin
they see value in independent certified wool for the and animal welfare standards. We
industry. It will be very positive for our industry. have commenced sourcing NZFAP
accredited wool and are transitioning
Rosstan Mazey, WoolWorks NZ towards sourcing 100% of our wool
” from accredited sources.’
NZ Wool Export Companies Join NZ National Standard for Wool

• CP Wool • Kells Wool • Brian Redding
• Curtis Wool Direct (NZ) • Mainland Wool • Escorial Wool
• Devold Wool Direct NZ • NZWSI / J S Brooksbank • Ken Milne Wools
• PGG Wrightson / • Mulcahy Wool Merchants
• East Coast Wools
Bloch & Behrens • Wool Marketing
• Modiano (NZ)
• Wright Wool Marlborough Nelson
• Schneider NZ • Segard Masurel (NZ) • Wool Wairarapa
• John Marshall & Co • WoolWorks NZ • WS Hickey & Son Nigel Hales with Megan Wood, Minister of Energy and Resources (New Zealand), at the Woolworks Timaru plant
• JOMA Wool • Yaldhurst Wools • Bremworth Wool Carpets
removing 5,021 cars off the road’. we are actively participating with Environmental compliance is not
the government to embrace the new to WoolWorks. It was one
‘We are committed to reducing
NZ woolscourer to Decarbonise
New Zealand “Three Waters” of the first New Zealand wool
our carbon emissions by 100%. We
initiative. Total useful energy levels companies to become GOTS and
have already reduced our energy
are at the world’s leading best RWS certified.
by over 20% so the government’s
W
practise. ‘Our environmentally This year it has also embraced the
Energy Efficiency and Conservation
oolWorks New Zealand, WoolWorks is the largest friendly scouring process includes
Authority (EECA) support to fast newly established New Zealand
formerly known as New woolscourer by volume in the recycling all of our waste streams,
track further reductions has been National Standard for Wool, a
Zealand Woolscouring world and handles 76% of all New reusing where possible, ensuring
exciting. It has helped speed up the single standardised assurance
has been accelerating Zealand wool. It washes more than animal welfare standards are
process and made the decision to program that will provide
its plan to replace coal 100,000,000 greasy kilograms maintained and looking after our
move away from coal much easier.’ confidence to users of New
with electricity, in what of wool every year ranging from people’, Nigel Hales explains. Zealand wool around traceability,
is a world-leading environmental superfine merino to crossbred ‘Rather than planting our way out biosecurity, environmental
initiative for early stage wool sustainability into a workable WoolWorks provides scouring
wool. It operates plants in Napier, of the climate change problem sustainability, and the animal
operation is an exciting step services to New Zealand wool
processing. The conversion Hastings, and Timaru. with pine trees to offset our health and welfare of New Zealand
forward’, says Nigel Hales, CEO. growers, manufacturers, and wool
project at its Timaru plant will greenhouse gas emissions, we sheep.
‘We want to play our part in ‘Installing an electrode boiler to exporters. External certification
see an electrode boiler and high are choosing to do the right thing
environmental responsibility, produce steam and an industrial is provided. All wools washed are ‘We endeavour to offer our
temperature heat pump operating by the environment and actually
operating a facility with the lowest heat pump to generate hot water fully traceable back to the farm customers the highest level of
within 18 months. reduce our emissions,’ he says.
carbon footprint we can achieve, will cut more than 11,000 tonnes where the wool is grown. ‘We do environmental certification and
‘This is a major environmental and still provide the best scoured of carbon dioxide emissions at ‘Every part of the process is not trade wool and therefore are labelling. This is a very important
move for WoolWorks and turning wool to our customers around the the Timaru plant annually’, says monitored by the minute. Water not in conflict with our customers’ aspect of our production and
our commitment to environmental world’. Nigel Hales. ‘This is equivalent to usage is carefully controlled and activities’, Nigel Hales points out. customer service’, Nigel Hales says.

A Journey of Genuine
Wool Integrity from
NZ wool supply with Integrity farm gate-to-consumer
independently verified by government-owned food
assurance agency AsureQuality. As well as being an
on-farm accreditation program, Wool Integrity NZ™ is All enquiries please contact:
a quality scheme, encompassing Bloch & Behrens’ full Our quality assurance brand ‘Wool Integrity’, Bloch and Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd.
business service, as Palle Petersen explains.
supplies pure New Zealand Wool to brand Hans Bering European Manager:
“If one of our customers requests a certain wool type,
that is what we will deliver. Based on visual inspection
partners worldwide. [email protected]
and lab testing we select individual farm lots, Palle Petersen General Manager:
customising scoured wool parcels to meet our brand
Supported by PGG Wrightson’s nationwide [email protected]
partners’ specific requirements. network of wool representatives, sourcing
“Knowing our customers, their processes and end ‘Wool Integrity’ wool from registered
products enables us to deliver quality wool to meet or farmers throughout New Zealand.
exceed their expectations,” he says.
While New Zealand is renowned as the origin of Covers all wool types.
the world’s best crossbred wool, its growers also
Palle Petersen produce superior quality merino wool, mainly super www.woolintegrity.com
fine 16 to 18 micron, keenly sought by international
A
focus on ethical production feeds the processors for its renowned features and purity, and
philosophy behind Bloch & Behrens‘ Wool the assurance that it comes off sheep that have not
Integrity NZ™ brand. Launched in 2015, the been subjected to mulesing, which is banned in New
brand validates transparency throughout the Zealand.
supply chain, providing customers visibility to Bloch & Behrens exports to more than 30 countries.
the source of their raw materials, with full traceability A wholly owned subsidiary of New Zealand’s largest
back to farmers who can prove they look after their wool brokering company PGG Wrightson, it has direct
animals, their land and the wider environment. access to wool throughout the country. As well as
Bloch & Behrens General Manager Palle Petersen says procuring wool at auction, Bloch & Behrens also buys
the recent addition of wool to the New Zealand Farm through direct farmer contracts, therefore providing
Assurance Program (NZFAP) strengthens the brand still price certainty both for the company’s growers and its
further. international customers.
“Previously we relied on farmer self-declaration to “Our global brand partners don’t need their own
meet the standards required to become a program spinning capability to use the Wool Integrity NZ™
supplier. However, some of our international brand. They can purchase Wool Integrity NZ™
customers indicated they would prefer third party compliant yarn from one of our many accredited
audit of Wool Integrity NZ™ growers, and through spinners, who in turn source the greasy, scoured or
NZFAP that independence will now be structured in”. combed wool from us.
The NZFAP provides a single harmonised farm “Finished items made from Wool Integrity NZ™ wool
assurance standard, replacing the multiple different are eligible to carry its logo, which can sit alongside
standards that previously prevailed. The NZFAP is the manufacturer’s brand to provide the consumer
today owned and managed by New Zealand Farm with additional comfort and endorsement of product
Assurance Incorporated (NZFAI), with all farms integrity,” says Palle Petersen.
REGENERATIVE GRAZING
“ CARBON ACCOUNTING
Is carbon-stock increasing in the soil or is it keeping it locked in the
REGENERATIVE WOOL
soil? The latter may be equally important. Could sheep and thus wool
actually reduce emissions, is the under-lying million-dollar question.
”
REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE
the HIGG Index MSI (Material Science Index) not entirely clear always what that means,” said
and the EU PEF. Eco-Age recently added a Heaton. “It is by no means as straight-forward
background “white” paper which highlights some as ‘organic’, which has clear boundaries and a
A NEW LANDSCAPE EMERGING

of the short-comings of PEF for apparel and legal definition. ‘Regenerative’ is quite fluid and
footwear, stating that the “methodology is not relates to the enhancement of the whole farm
credible and may mislead consumers in choosing ecosystem: the soil, water-sources, and can even
products that do more harm than good for the include the Responsible Wool Standard. It is also
environment”. an ongoing progression, not a target you meet. It
is very ‘hands on’, looking at how many animals
For wool and other natural fibers, it is no longer a question During the first Animal Fiber Round Table held
and how often they are moved, and to what
by Textile Exchange (TE) (May 26th 2021),
of organic or recycled vs conventional, as new tools and indices regenerative grazing had suddenly become
degree one is adding new species.” The latter
means both how many more earth worms you
and practices and policies emerge at a record-breaking pace. a major topic – almost a year after Textile can count; how many more birds are chirping
On the one hand, there is talk of labelling-fatigue, Exchange included “regenerative cotton” in their and how wildlife is part of the given eco-system.
preferred fibers listing. A detailed presentation As livestock can harvest cover crops without
on the other, transparency and climate-positive wool. by Anna Heaton outlined the complexities of this
By Tone Skårdal Tobiasson
killing their roots, and then return additional
new approach to farming and grazing practices, carbon from those plant tissues to the soil
T
(though “new” is probably stretching things through their manure, it’s a holistic and circular
a bit). Many would argue that regenerative system.
he last years’ issue of wool2yarn took a one-size-fits-all scheme for natural fibers, as nature’s
farming is a question of simply going back to
deep-dive into wool integrity schemes, diversity is not exactly spread-sheet conducive. Perhaps the most exciting potential here, is how
pre-industrialized or agroecological farming
as the jungle of labelling and schemes the system can turn the results upside down
In a recent report in Ecotextile News, from the practices, where monocrops, synthetic fertilizers
is on the rise. The magazine also from current LCA-based tools that demonize
Bremen Cotton Conference, Simon Ferrigno noted and over-grazing simply are a “no go”. For
featured a snap-shot view of the on- natural fibers compared to synthetic, which
that “much of the sustainability debate suggested a sheep and wool, this might mean a system of
going process in the EU for a Product is exactly what EcoAge’s background paper
trend towards addressing problems with a declining transhumance (the historic system of moving
Environmental Footprint (PEF). However, if we zoom addresses. Increasingly there are claims of
interest in standards as the main approach” and livestock to follow the seasonal changes in
out even further, we can see some new landscapes asked the rhetoric question if this is set to usher an climate-positive fibers and mitigation of green-
grazing areas) or other ways of moving them
emerging where the “either you’re in or you’re out” era of pragmatic solution-seeking that allows for house gas emissions. “Actions of farmers can
around. For the Textile Exchange and their
schemes are losing ground, while the ones where feed into the overall impact,” according to
more cooperation between different groups and “Climate Plus” initiative, they will be looking
improvement over time are the goal, gain a foothold. Heaton. It still is complicated, as “is the question
perspectives. specifically at impacts of all the animal fibers,
of carbon-stock increasing in the soil or is it
The landscape is complex, so embracing the As some of you may have noted, the IWTO has indeed and for this the plan involves a task force, where
keeping it locked in the soil? The latter may be
complexity is actually a key factor. Even though we entered a cooperation with the other natural fibers “regenerative wool” is one of their areas of
equally important”. Could sheep, and thus wool,
all dream of simple, straight-forward options, we will organisations in order to have their voice heard in focus.
actually reduce emissions? That is the under-
have to accept that there probably never will be a the on-going push and pull both in discussion with “The word ‘regenerative’ is coming up a lot. It’s lying million-dollar question?

During the spring of 2021,
Fibershed California posted
several interesting projects
“
Sheep play a key role in their
emissions from the farm. Over
20 years, that’s equivalent to the
emissions of 23,740 cars.
online, outlining developments operations-improving soil health In 2013, Burgess partnered
that are making headlines and and fertility through nutrient with Dr. Marcia DeLong, at UC
galvanizing hope for a completely
cycling, reducing weed pressure Berkeley’s Silver Lab, through
new attitude towards livestock.
and fire hazard, and reducing modelling several scenarios of
One of these was concerning
land management and production
grazing in vineyards: “Last week the amount of human labor
processes for a wool garment:
we conducted a soil sampling at needed to defoliate the grapes “What was unique about this
Shannon Ridge Vineyards as part
among many others benefits. life cycle assessment is that it
of a project to demonstrate the
”
beneficial impact that Integrated utilized peer-reviewed soil carbon
Crop-Livestock Systems can play sequestration research for grazed
on our farms and ranches, in this rangelands. The LCA was site-
case specifically grazing sheep methodology simple enough for specific and encompassed a set
through vineyards. lay-people to grasp and to spread of soil types within our part of
to others – so that the entry-level California, including the coast to
“According to Clay and Angie the Sierra Nevada, a region that
is easy.
Shannon, sheep play a key role produces over a million pounds
in their operations - improving Burgess also describes how they of wool per year, one-third of
soil health and fertility through are developing a methodology what California produces per
nutrient cycling, reducing weed to verify positive environmental year in total.” DeLong explored
pressure and fire hazard, and impacts of vineyard grazing seven scenarios and included
reducing the amount of human systems, using remote sensing land management, animal
labor needed to defoliate the imagery and satellite technology.
productivity and emissions,
grapes among many others “This will provide a low-cost
transport of raw and processed
benefits. They graze their 1200 method for assessing and verifying
materials, employee commutes,
sheep through thousands of ecologically beneficial land
manufacturing systems and
acres of vineyards and are able management practices at scale.”
end-user care of garment. Out
to sell grass-fed lamb and wool But what does this have to do with
of the seven, one demonstrated
in addition to their selection of wool? For Burgess it started with
the ability to draw down three
wines,” writes Rebecca Burgess, the sporting-goods company The
additional tons of CO2e per
founder of Fibershed. Another North Face and “climate beneficial
hectare, more than offsetting
“partner in crime” of Fibershed, wool”, which resulted in the
the methane emissions from the
is the Carbon Cycle Institute, who “climate positive beanie”. Since
sheep.
have developed Carbon Farm then, the “who and what” of the
Planning, a suite of practices that Fine Count Climate Beneficial Wool In the on-going project Amazing
build healthier soils; integrate Pool consists of 20,000 sheep, Grazing, Burgess has partnered
tree crops, shrubs, and perennials covers 84,000 acres of range- and with the Norwegian Institute for
into farm and ranch operations; pastureland and has drawn down Bioeconomy Research (NIBIO),
manage livestock grazing for 13,000 tons of CO2e per year and the focus is on an analysis of
increased carbon capture; improve beyond “business as usual”, thanks the ecosystem services provided
watershed health; support to annual implementation of by traditional rangeland sheep
ecosystem function; and much carbon farming. For one operator, grazing. Norway’s sheep farming
more. The aim of the methodology Bare Ranch and their wool systems are based on free-
is either to reduce GHG emissions production, the drawdown rate range grazing in unfenced forest
or draw down atmospheric carbon was computed to effectively offset and mountain area, and the
dioxide. A key here is making the 6 to 9.3 times the greenhouse gas project will focus on providing
new knowledge on how sheep
rangeland grazing can be part of
sustainable food and fiber (textile)
“
The mainstream, industry-
wool over our eyes, or are they a
“must-have” to be accepted in the
market?
SustainaWOOL, and RWS’ task
force will, in addition, be looking
at the wider agricultural and
“
Natural fibers have enormous
1 million hectares of crop and
rangelands to regenerative
agriculture. Interestingly,
systems, and how stakeholders in generated sustainability grazing systems: Savory Institute’s potential to do good, something Stanford University has recently
The main players on in the labeling
the value chain can enhance value frameworks that have guided Land to Market program and ROC. Kering has committed to redefined the circular economy
landscape are Savory Institute’s
creation in a wide sense. Also, as being “regenerative rather
brands for years in their Land to Market Ecological That the conventional tools through its Regenerative Fund
the start of the project coincided than extractive”, which fits with
sourcing decisions have not Outcome Certification (EOV), based on LCAs do not capture for Nature, which will aid the
with the founding of a Fibershed this new landscape. As there is a
Regenerative Organic Certified the sequestration of greenhouse
Nordenfjeldske (in Norway) and been revised to incorporate the transition of 1 million hectares discussion, in the EU mainly, on
(ROC) and ZQRX. The latter is the gases, is, of course, at the
a Fibershed Finland. The project new science that has deepened of crop and rangelands to a tax on virgin fibers – something
newest pundit, a recent additive very core of the wool industry
will look at the schism between that would severely hurt the wool
our collective knowledge of the to the ZQ scheme, owned by the embracing regenerative regenerative agriculture.
traditional LCAs, regenerative sector – a definition of the circular
New Zealand Merino Company, agriculture, after over 12
”
and other modelling and labeling carbon cycle and the role of soil economy without emphasis on
carbon sequestration. and is only related to wool – years of debating the fiber’s
schemes – to see how consumers demand for recycled content, is
the other two also cover other eco-credentials. It blind-sided
also react to such schemes
”
a positive. When the focus shifts
and claims when tied to actual agricultural products. NZM has the industry when the Dutch and physical properties and to biodiversity as well as climate
products. partnered with brands Allbirds, organization Made-By, as far cycles, that will help us remove issues, those raw-materials
Icebreaker and Smartwool for back as in 2010, published a tool the legacy load of carbon from that potentially contribute to
One thing is the consumer, soil-tests. “The TE Task Force will their regenerative platform, showing wool as worst in class of our atmosphere. According biodiversity through agricultural
another is the scientific be evaluating all the boundaries,” which they say is a mechanism all fibers. Since then, the HIGG to Fibershed’s Burgess, “The and grazing practices, have more
community: Have they agreed she explained. to monitor and reward – where Index Material Science Index has mainstream, industry-generated merit than those that do not.
on how to measure impact, wool growers are assessed against proliferated the same stance;
A crucial question, when sustainability frameworks that
amelioration or other outcomes? 15 key performance indicators, though currently silk and alpaca Willy Gallia in the Authentico
measuring the total impact for have guided brands for years in
Hardly. There are numerous including animal welfare and fare much worse in their tool than Integrity scheme by the Schneider
sheep and wool, is how methane their sourcing decisions have not
techniques, as described in the social responsibility, as well as wool. This has been massively Group, has also been exploring
is addressed, a GHG which is said been revised to incorporate the
TE talk by Heaton. “Many things issues pertaining to waste, water critiqued; however, circumventing whether regenerative practices
to be more damaging than carbon; new science that has deepened
come into play: diversity of quality and soil health. The intent this through the focus on could become part of their
however, with a shorter lifespan. our collective knowledge of the
vegetation, species, stocking rates, is to expand the model to other regenerative practices has offered work, but for the time being
Also here we find divergence. Two carbon cycle and the role of soil
rotational grazing, use of manure countries, such as South Africa and hope. HIGG Co’s CEO Jason Kibbey they remain open without
systems are now in competition: carbon sequestration. For that
and other inputs. Measuring Australia. even recently proclaimed, “We committing themselves to one
Global Warming Potential 100 and fundamental reason alone, there
can be very in-field and on-farm would love nothing more than specific scheme. A main focus
the newer GWP*. The latter takes “If someone had told me a year is a glaring need for companies to
with no external help, it might to have data from regenerative now is increasing efforts in
into account the shorter lifespan ago that it was possible to have reevaluate their sourcing decisions
be counting earth worms, how farmers to show what an carbon-accounting and taking
of methane and therefore – for 350 farmers on a Zoom call and with fresh eyes.”
well soil holds water, vegetation improvement regenerative farming biodiversity more and more
ruminants – greatly reduces the
coverage, type, etc. Or it can be that over-night more than half of Helen Crowley, from the Kering seriously. “Farmers have it in
score for their global warming can make.”
taken it up a step to lab-testing, them would join our new scheme, Group, agrees, and told The their DNA that they want to
effect. This means, of course, that
samples of soil organic matter I would have said they were Guardian that sustainable fashion improve their soil and have better
– which needs a conversion- The discussion is thus flying high crazy. But that’s what happened. we will need to learn a whole has to be about more than pastures, but they see the results
rate (some more accurate than on both methane and on how to We’re now building tools, rather new set of words, such as soil mitigating negative impacts, and now of the mining-practices and
others) and base-line metrics.” measure carbon-soil based on than rules,” said Dave Maslen carbon, vegetative carbon, pointed out that with synthetics, petrochemical extraction, also on
Does the rancher have GPS-points climatic differences and how much during the IWTO Congress. Based no-till, rotational grazing and “you can reduce a certain element their water-wells that are drier
and comes back to the same carbon-depletion has already on this work NZM published a cover-crops, as well as accept of the negative but it’s not than ever. We’ve already been
point year on year? Depths of taken place, as our soil is the new Product Category Rule in that it’s a system in flux. New driving any positive outcomes”. in several conversations with
samples are also important, to potentially largest sink – more the European Environmental questions are also surfacing, such By contrast, she said, natural many in the ‘regeneration’ area,
understand what happens way than our oceans and more than Produce Declaration scheme and as, Is there a maximum limit to fibers have enormous potential and it’s a holistic approach that
down and the biology of the soil, the atmosphere. However, there had the work peer-reviewed and the amount of carbon that can to do good, something Kering has been there for centuries and
how the roots offer nutrients and is another equally important published. They cooperate closely be stored in the soil? It’s also has committed to through its upheld by the indigenous peoples.
how the microbes thrive, which discussion: to label or not to label. with Responsible Wool Standard about a deeper understanding Regenerative Fund for Nature, Now it’s a buzzword that is being
represents the more expensive Are labelling schemes pulling (RWS), who are also in talks with of the earth’s biogeochemical which will aid the transition of monetized.” He does, however,

welcome more research and and does it retain more water and
better data. Perhaps we also need
a mindset-change, away from “
Perhaps we also need a
have more organic matter? For
this, a mere soil test, repeated New Online Platform for Top Buying
C
“either in or out” schemes, a new regularly, could suffice. It probably
mindset-change, away from ovid-19 may have put plans on hold for some
openness for local variations and, does not need a new standard
companies but Lempriere Bulgaria is marching
instead of change, reward ongoing “either in or out” schemes, that is, in effect, a compendium
ahead and launching an online platform for
good management, as we are a new openness for local of standards. In any case many
buyers of tops. ‘It can be a long process for
looking at different underlying variations and, instead of farmers are unhappy with this
spinners to make their orders for tops. They
biological systems, different approach. Practitioners want a set
change, reward ongoing good must determine what the fabric manufacturer
soils, and different climates. of tools around a concept they can
management, as we are looking requires and then work backwards to find the most
Furthermore, current methods quickly adapt to local problems suitable top at the best price. Our new Lempriere
do not distinguish between land at different underlying biological and needs. Organizations and online platform will enable spinners and weavers to
that is converted from chemical systems, different soils, brands, on the other hand, want search for tops available, access information about
intensive to organic/regenerative and different climates. standards, as it arguably insulates quality and price, and choose, and purchase online
practices and land that was not them from criticism. But if farmers for immediate delivery. This platform will also allow
in a chemical intensive system
to begin with (otherwise known ” can measure and report their
changes, do we need to prescribe
weavers to search and order certified wool types such
as RWS’, says Eric Durand of Lempriere Bulgaria.
as organic, agroecological or chemicals. This holistic journey their practices first or just ask for
regenerative by default). Also, and philosophy with a goal of the outcomes? The million-dollar ‘Our objective is to make the transaction hassle-free,
certifications tend to be at farm locking away damaging emissions question still begs an answer. transparent, and accessed and actioned in real time.
level, whereas much of the value must adapt local solutions to local We feel we are working in a different way to other
There are of course several topmakers around the world today. This transparency
of the regenerative approach is problems. The key ingredient is no options here in moving forward:
at the landscape level, what is in longer high-tech machinery and and quick and easy communication with our
Do we further develop LCAs to customers is very important to them and to us’. ‘We
French is called ‘terroir’, so will expensive inputs. It’s a recipe that embrace new knowledge including
we also be seeing wool labels requires the expertise, creativity, will also extend options for our customers to negotiate
carbon sequestration and prices with us directly in real time if they need
or even handy-crafted products and watchful eye of human microplastics, or acknowledge that
pertaining to EU’s geographical beings. As a recent article in The something outside the square’, he says. ‘Customers Homepage - Lempriere new online wooltop buying platform
LCAs work well in some areas and can visit our website at lempriere-market.com
indication protection system, such Counter stated, truly regenerative other tools work better in others?
as Shetland Organic wool currently agriculture, may actually require If the latter, we need to challenge ‘It looks to us as if China is increasingly looking inward certified wool. Lempriere Bulgaria has maintained its
has and Harris Tweed is certain to an approach to farming that’s whether LCAs become the only to supply its domestic market and European spinners production of RWS tops. As this interest continues
attain? less isolated and automated, basis for judging environmental are finding that tops manufactured in Eastern Europe there will be a shortage of RWS wool supply next
more creative and collaborative— footprints such as in the EU’s are just as cost competitive, and can deliver within season’, he comments. ‘We source RWS wool from
One side-effect of going
embracing solutions that one PEF or HIGG’s MSI. As Crowley days. As demand for tops grows we see long logistics certified Australian growers. There are still a limited
regenerative, may be diminished
could call “low-carbon, high- recently stated, LCAs “are a good delays and huge increases in shipping costs playing number of RWS certified farms in Australia but so far
carrying capacity for grazing or a
human.” start” to achieving transparent a major role in decision-making when choosing we are able to meet our customer demand’.
move to a transhumance system,
with more manpower to herd So, regenerative agriculture boils impact measurements and targets, where to buys tops. We believe that our new online
As an independent and widely accepted certification,
the sheep, as with less pressure down to engaging farmers with however, “we also need to be very wool top buying platform will complement this quick
RWS is preferred by many and by European spinners
we can regenerate. Without, we an eye on the outcome: is there careful that they don’t become turnaround, so important to our customers’.
in particular. Lempriere Bulgaria can also provide
will need to continue farming on more or less carbon in the soil, absolute truths”. Since the end of March there has been strong demand GOTS and EU Flower and is fully accredited with
for wool types for the knitting sector. ‘I think that we Interwoollabs. It has a production capacity of 6
were all surprised by how strong this demand would million kg tops per year. 80% of its production is for
The main criticism of regenerative agriculture: The lack of a clear definition of what it is. It potentially be’, comments Eric Durand. ‘The demand by spinners Lempriere Group and 20% is on commission basis.
displaces other ruminants, mainly wild ruminants; but also, other wild-life. It is actually agroecology or working in the finer apparel sector has been weak Lempriere Bulgaria is close to port and excellent road
holistic land-management revisited, so why the need for a new name? As some regenerative schemes plan but we see it slowly coming back now. This has been connections to all European countries enable quick
to generate carbon credits for sale, some are questioning whether this is even possible when partly generated by a shift from formal wear to casual deliver time to fashion brands within Europe.
the actual carbon-capture potential is unclear. It does not address the social inequalities apparel.
linked to lack of access to land, which is problem in many parts of the world. Eric Durand can be contacted at
‘We also see a continuing increase in demand for [email protected] www.lempriere-market.com

BRITISH WOOL S U S TA I N A B L E TRACEABLE ETHICAL
meeting the need for provenance
T
he provenance origin of their products. Our trials Nick Booth, Managing Director at
of products is will help us to develop long- Harrison Spinks commented, “We The South African Wool The Sustainable Cape Wool
becoming increasingly term solutions which will allow are delighted to be a part of this Industry provides a high- Standard provides assurance
important to an ever consumers to fully understand new scheme as it supports our
more socially and where the wool in the products brand vision to be the most ethical quality, environmentally sound of sustainable, traceable wool
environmentally they are purchasing is from. It also and sustainable bed manufacturer.” product which meets the by means of independent on-
conscious consumer. British Wool gives consumers peace of mind needs of the textile industry. farm assessments.
Devon Duvets Managing Director
recognises the importance of that the farmer has received a
Dick Beijen added, “We have been
meeting this need and is keen premium payment for their wool.”
working with British Wool for a
to work with end brands and
The trials are designed not only number of years and are proud to
processors to better understand
to give full transparency to use this fantastic natural fibre at
their requirements and the
consumers but to also maximise the heart of our products. Our new
challenge of delivering this.
the price the farmer receives for traceable range is now available
Welfare standards in the UK are
their wool, Clark explains “As a on our website (devonduvets.
among the best in the world
farming co-operative our number com) and will shortly be available
but with most British wool
one aim is to maximise the value through our network of retail
coming from small family farms
of our producers’ wool. In order partners, including John Lewis.”
the challenge of delivering full
to achieve this the brands we are
traceability from farm gate to shop Shaun Daniel, Managing Director
working with have agreed to pay
floor is greater than in many other at Yorkshire-based Luna Textiles
a premium for traceability, which
wool-growing nations. added that “Preparing your bed
we will be making sure the farmers
To aid their understanding British receive.” He continued, “We are for success is our strapline. The
Wool is working with a number initially launching this scheme in British Wool traceable scheme
of end brands to trial traceable the sleep product category working perfectly supports this and we are
wool this season. Its aspiration is with leading brands in this market, delighted to be one of the first
to make all British wool traceable Devon Duvets and Luna Textiles, manufacturers to be part of this
over the next few years. Graham who both supply 100% British wool exciting scheme. As well as under
Clark, Director of Marketing bedding, and Harrison Spinks, the our own brand our new traceable
explains, “We are keen to meet premium mattress manufacturer range will be also be supplied to
the increasing demand from who use wool for their luxury a number of different brands and
consumers to understand the natural mattresses.” is available online and through a
wide range of outlets across the UK
and Europe.”
Clark concluded, “We are very
excited to be working with such
premium brands in the bedding
market and we will be working
hard to ensure this is a success
for all involved. Moving into the
future we anticipate a much larger
proportion of our wool being www.capewools.co.za
[email protected]
traceable, which should mean
better prices for farmers for their
wool over the long-term.”
the establishment of an integrated has the advantage of providing important for us to recognise that
traceability platform, CWSA will in a mulesed-free clip, and these guidelines and certifications the
Progressive Sustainability Initiatives future be in a position to supply

its partners with the sustainability
agreements will add simplicity
and uniformity for buyers of South
wool industry will accept must also
be affordable for the wool grower
South Africa
status of wool produced in South African wool around the world. and transparent and trusted
Africa, and is currently investigating ‘The Sustainable Cape Wool for manufacturers and brands.
the most suitable avenue to Standard creates the basis for a This new Sustainable Cape Wool
provide traceability through to the sustainable, traceable wool supply, Standard, together with its value
Although Covid-19 interrupted some wool growing countries end consumer. integrated into a single platform, chain partners, is achieving that.
with their certification initiatives, Cape Wools SA continues to roll-out new initiatives for ‘We operate in a global world and incorporating critical bio-security
recording principles for wool ‘Today fashion brands are under
the South African wool industry. The industry was proud to announce for buyers of South African wool
export certification’, says Deon pressure to maintain a defendable
to have confidence in our fibre it
several new agreements signed with strategic partners. is important to have trusted and Saayman. position when it comes to
uniform standards in traceability sustainability of the raw material
‘Wool is a brand and the trust
that is transparent’, says Deon supply chains. Consumers want
we put in the wool brand starts
Saayman. ‘To ensure South African to know that they can trust the
on the farm. To ensure that trust
wool producers have equal market can be established with the brand they are buying and that
access, they need to deliver a consumer we need to ensure there the product they are wearing
product that is in demand, and is transparency across the entire was produced in an ethical
certification is one of the most supply chain, and this starts with manner. That is why South African
important issues. The South a traceable source from the farm’, wool is favoured by so many
African wool merino clip already Deon Saayman continues. ‘It is manufacturers around the world.
T
Deon Saayman CEO
he first is an agreement
with Abelusi, which is
a certification standard
within South Africa,
whereby the assessments
of the Sustainable
Cape Wools Standard
(SCWS) and Abelusi standards
were harmonised in order for two
certifications to be generated with
The South African clip is predominantly Merino. It is high yielding, with more than 60% of
STANDARD WOOL
one on-farm audit. •S
A•
the clip yielding at least 60% clean. The majority of the South African clip is 17 - 24 micron
OU
In another announcement this
with more than 98% of the clip finer than 24 microns
TH AFRIC
year, Deon Saayman, CEO at Cape
Wools South Africa, says, ‘Cape joining RWS wools as a recognized Wools SA (CWSA) and AWEX have
Wools SA has signed an agreement certified source of sustainable, joined forces in an innovative
with G Schneider Group and traceable wool from South Africa’. collaboration, to ensure greater
their Authentico Platform to The third agreement reached integrity and traceability of
recognise the Sustainable Cape was with the Australian Wool sustainably certified sources along
Wools Standard on their platform, Exchange (AWEX), whereby Cape the entire wool value chain. With

ACCURACY EFFICIENCY INTEGRITY
WOOL TESTING BUREAU S.A. Wool Testing Bureau SA

Providing the South African industry
T
with impartial certification services
he Wool Testing Bureau material selection whilst adhering
• Greasy Wool Core Testing – Yield | Mean Fibre Diameter
S.A. (WTB) is located in to the contract requirements.
Staple Length and Strength
Port Elizabeth, South
Sampling supervision forms • Scoured Wool, Carbonised Wool and Wool Top Testing
Africa. It is the only
an essential part of the IWTO
IWTO accredited testing facility • Product Testing – Textile | Automotive
certification process. WTB
on the continent and provides sampling staff are present when • Comprehensive Grower Services
comprehensive sampling, testing specimens are taken at the broker
and certification services to wool stores to ensure that the correct Technical Expertise and Professional Integrity
producers, brokers and buyers in procedures are followed to obtain
the Southern African region. • Accredited to ISO 17025
a representative test sample from
• I.W.T.O. Licensed laboratory
Port Elizabeth is the activity centre all the bales in the lot. They also
™ for wool in South Africa. All the verify the integrity of the samples • Member of Interwoollabs
major wool brokers and buyers are taken during the grab and coring • Member of the Independent Laboratory
located here with weekly auctions processes. Round Trials Group (ILRT)
taking place throughout the wool WTB is a member of the
season. Bales are shipped directly Independent Laboratories Round
South African to overseas clients from nearby
ports servicing the city. The close
Trial Group (ILRT) and participates
in regular round trials as part of
Merino - new proximity of WTB to the major its Proficiency Testing Program.
broker sites allows the Company
Trade Mark to provide an efficient service with
The participation in ILRT trials
provide clients who use WTB-
T
a short turn-around time on test issued IWTO Certificates with a
he South African wool results. Having all the major clients basis of confidence in the results.
industry has moved close to the Test House enables the All IWTO certificates issued by WTB
to register South Company to utilize economies of can be independently verified by
African Merino with a scale, thereby providing a cost- accessing the http://verify.wtbsa.
uniquely identifiable logo in effective service to all its local co.za webpage and entering the
a major branding move. ‘We clients. required information.
feel it is important to identify
South African Merino with The Company had a successful year The Company is actively involved
a highly recognisable brand during 2021. The total number in IWTO to ensure the correct
symbol. South African wool is of lots tested for Yield and Fibre application of the latest technical
well recognised as a natural, Diameter (Y&D) increased by standards relating to wool testing
sustainable, ethical fibre that 1.7% to 93100. The lots tested for and certification within the
is non-mulesed. It is globally Staple Length and Strength (L&S) Company and the local industry.
acclaimed for its exceptional increased by 5.2% to 62800. The Participation in proficiency testing
quality for use in apparel. Adoption Rate, which refers to the programs such as Interwoollabs
Registering this trade mark percentage of Y&M lots tested and the ILRT group enables the
in all major wool consuming for L&S, increased to a historical harmonisation of test results with
markets around the world high of 67%. The high adoption other major international Test
will ensure that it is easily rate allows wool buyers to utilize Houses. WTB maintains a high level
recognised by consumers,’ the objective L&S information in of technical competence and is
says Deon Saayman. the prediction of the processing committed to providing world-class Wool Testing Bureau SA
performance of consignments, testing services to the Southern Head Office: Cnr University Way & Gomery Avenue,
Summerstrand, South Africa
enabling the optimisation of input African wool industry. P.O. Box 1867, Port Elizabeth, 6000, South Africa
Telephone: +27 41 503 6600 | Facsimile: +041 583 2195
E-Mail: [email protected] | Website: www.wtbsa.co.za
moves to RMS
I
n unity with other natural fibre of high-end hand knitting yarns. Last season
industries Mohair has adopted Samil purchased over 41% of the entire
a unified and independent South African Mohair clip.
certification standard. The
Samil sources the bulk of their Mohair
Responsible Mohair Standards
clip from the Eastern and Western
(RMS) will provide the industry
Cape, and from Lesotho, as well from its Angora goats are at home in the Karoo region of South Africa Samil offers a wide selection of hand knitting, weaving, and
with tools to recognise the best
own farms located in the Karoo regions. machine knitting yarns
farm practices to ensure that Mohair
‘The advantage of having both dedicated
comes from farms with advanced
topmaking and spinning operations in South million kg of Mohair tops and most of their production include solid shades and melanges. Counts vary
land management, animal welfare, and
Africa, as well as access to locally produced raw is exported to international markets primarily in Italy, from 1/40NM ring spun yarn to finely brushed fancy
social responsibility policies and procedures in place. material, enables us to offer lots that are guaranteed
Beyond the farm, it also aims to provide a system of China, and Europe. ‘Our combing is dedicated to only Mohair yarn containing Super Kid Mohair, wool, silks
from origin, a rare luxury in today’s business processing Mohair and 20% of this top is used in our
traceability throughout the entire value chain – from and other fibre combinations’, says Gina Moolman,
environment’. own yarn production’, Mike Brosnahan comments.
farm to finished product. Samil Yarn Sales Manager. Operating our own dye
‘Today, we see ourselves as a link between Mohair Although Samil Combing is committed to processing facility provides our customers fast, efficient, dyeing
‘Mohair is light weight, durable, crease resistant, and producers, processors and consumers’, says Mike of bespoke colours particularly for the hand knitting
only Mohair, Samil Spinning prides itself on spinning
non-flammable and these attributes make Mohair Brosnahan. ‘We also fulfill an important social industry’.
yarns to satisfy the artistic demands of the high
highly desirable for manufacturers of garments and responsibility role by contributing to the creation fashion industry. ‘We can produce yarns in a vast ‘We create perfectly blended fancy and worsted yarns
industrial textiles’, says Mike Brosnahan, CEO of Samil of jobs in our country’. Samil provides many job variety of blends, our main blends are in both all-natural as well as natural
Natural Fibres in South Africa. ‘RMS opportunities in its various divisions of natural fibre: wool, silk, alpaca, and and synthetic fibre combinations
is an additional benefit to the Mohair that include farming, topmaking, bamboo, usually in combinations with to create lovely, soft, hand knitting
industry and its customers, and will spinning, dyeing and the manufacture Mohair, as well as 100% Mohair. Samil
of hand knitting yarns. yarns in balled form, and fancy dyed
promote South African Mohair as a can also produce blends with man- weaving yarns on cones direct from
sustainable luxury fibre. We are proud ‘Our supply chain is important to us, made fibres such as nylon and acrylic our own dye house. In addition to the
to be part of this initiative and we are particularly during periods of drought. but the majority of yarn production option of purchasing the yarns in raw
an RMS certified producer’, he says. It enables uninterrupted supply, is focused on yarn combinations with white (ecru), dyed as solid shades or
South Africa grows 65% and processes together with dedicated topmaking noble fibres’. blended into a palette of wonderful
80% of all world Mohair fibre. Samil is and spinning operations under one melange shades, we have introduced
SAMIL Spinning capacity is split into
a principal Mohair top processor and roof, which is a major advantage we the option of hand-painted yarns
65% fancy and 35% normal worsteds
exporter to the world. It is vertically have been able to provide to our which creates a totally unique effect
yarns. ‘We create a comprehensive
integrated from local Mohair grower to customer base. for those hand knitters looking for a
selection of quality knitting yarns
topmaker, spinner, dyer, and producer Samil has the capacity to produce 1.5 based on current trends and these Gina Moolman natural, artisanal look’, she says.

MOHAIR
September 2020, and by December 2020, the average
market indicator reached R252.34 p/kg, which is 12%
more than the start of the 2020 mohair winter season.
Market Report by Marco Coetzee

By the end of February 2021, a rising price trend was
evident, with a booming demand for mohair and the
mohair price reaching new heights. The availability of
T
Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) mohair played a
he 2020 Mohair summer season started off
big role in the increase in demand as major retailers/
positively for mohair producers, with the
brands started to get back into the market. By the
mohair price increasing by 29% on the second
25th of May 2021, the average market indicator closed
sale of the season. Then the global COVID-19
on R394.97 p/kg.
pandemic that dramatically affected the world
economy hit. It directly impacted the South Africa Fine adult mohair decreased by 2% and kid mohair
mohair industry. A sharp fall in commodity prices and increased by 2%. It is apparent that the mohair clip
a collapse in global demand at retail, combined with has been getting finer year on year for the last couple
restrictions on processing and exports during the hard of years due to the ongoing drought in the majority of
lockdown in South Africa, resulted in mohair prices the South African Mohair production areas.
falling consistently throughout the rest of the summer The buyers’ market changed quite a bit from 2019 due
season, for the average market indicator to close on to the global COVID-19 pandemic, with top makers
R227.37 p/kg. The 2020 Mohair winter season started taking up 83% of the market and the greasy buyers
on a similar note, with the second mohair winter sale only 17% of the market share.
being the low price point of the entire 2020 season.
From September 2020, the demand for mohair began Italy remains the leading buyer of South African
to recover, with December 2020 showing the highest mohair, importing 34% of the total clip. China’s figures
monthly export volumes for the 2020 calendar year. increased significantly from the previous year and
The mohair price also started to increase again from remained the 2nd biggest importer of South African
Mohair (31%). The United Kingdom (UK) figures
increased by 24%, and they are now the 3rd biggest
importer of South African Mohair (11%). Overall, the
export of mohair has increased slightly from 2019 to
2020.
The total South African mohair clip is estimated at
around 2.16-million kilograms for the 2020 year, which
is 3.85% more than 2019. This is a testament to the
fortitude and perseverance of South African mohair
growers who had to cope with drought conditions
experienced over most of the production area and
a decreasing mohair price due to the COVID-19
pandemic.
The main focus for the South African mohair industry
is sustainability, traceability and producing fibres
within an ethical environment. Progress with regards
to the RMS certification is going well, with 691
companies across the mohair value chain being RMS/
RWS certified. 64% of mohair sold in South Africa as of
the 25 May 2021 sale was RMS certified. The average
for the 2021 summer season saw approximately 60%
RMS certified South African Mohair.
79 Burman Road, Deal Party, Port Elizabeth, South Africa | P.O. Box 3446, North End, Port Elizabeth, 6056, South Africa
TEL +27(0)41 486 2433 | FAX +27(0)41 486 2655
64 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 [email protected] | [email protected] | www.samil.co.za
Winds of regenerative
change that heal the land
By Lindsay Humphreys – BKB and Prof. James Blignaut – Integra Trust
T
he BKB Group is always looking for new farmers to demonstrate and reliably prove their best our legacy as a 100-year-old institution and that of our
ways to support the implementation on-farm practices in land management and animal animals, are delicately woven together. At BKB, we
of systems that meet global sourcing welfare to their end market, ensuring a strong chain of cherish our combined legacies, the future of which is
requirements for the future. In recognizing custody for certified materials as they move through in our hands.
the tremendous responsibility of being the the supply chain. The standard requires all sites to be In these times this is a call of duty to stewardship
biggest South African broker, with a client certified, beginning with the farmer and through to beyond the norm. We are committed to supporting
base of 78000 producers, more than ever, innovation the final business-to-business transaction. Post-farm, the UN’s Decade of Restoration and we have
and sustainability needs are at the forefront of our the subsequent stages of the supply chain are certified commenced on a journey of land regeneration.
decisions and actions. Our focus is to enable more to the Textile Exchange Content Claim Standard, Lindsay Humphreys Prof James Blignaut
Regeneration is necessitated by the fact that climate
efficiency and customer-based solutions through ensuring complete transparency and traceability from change and a myriad of market and non-market-
exploring and utilizing synergistic opportunities in the efficiency, and the generation of on-farm renewable
farm to shelf. related factors have undermined the productive
value chain. energy.
BKB, together with its subsidiary broker, House of capability of our rangelands over several decades.
BKB introduced the global Responsible Wool Standard Regeneration is therefore a journey of healing that Our call to regenerate the land is also a call to
Fibre is proud to be the single largest supplier of RWS
(RWS) to South African farmers in 2016, followed by ushers in substance-filled hope which reinvigorates life service. Our clients, our markets, our children, the
wool and RMS mohair in the world, with over 1,100
the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2020. Both on life-deprived landscapes. future generation deserve to be able to source fibre
producers in the group, farming with approximately
the RWS and RMS are standards of Textile Exchange, from landscapes that have been healed from the
3 million sheep and 440,000 angora goats over This can be done by assisting in and accelerating
a global non-profit that, together with industries, scars of the past. We are thus both committed to
7 million hectares of land. In complying with this the rate of carbon drawdown, the restoration
develops and manages leading standards, adopted and have embarked on a process to bring about
standard, South African producers are well-positioned of biodiversity, the cooling of the soil, and the
widely by the international market. With a robust the regenerative change, assist in and monitor
to continue supplying responsible quality wool and enhancement of the soil’s water retention capability
membership representing the world’s leading brands, such change, and recount the healing of the land
mohair to meet the growing market demand. while adapting to the challenges at hand. It involves,
retailers, and suppliers, BKB, together with many to our circle of friends, colleagues, and clients in
among other things, the restoration of degraded
role-players, has played an integral part in building a a transparent, scientifically proven, and replicable
landscapes, changing herding practices, re-
global responsible supply chain that can collectively Regenerative Action establishing native vegetation, excluding animals from
manner at scale.
accomplish what no individual or company can.
Our sheep and angora goats, and the rangelands on certain camps for periods, extending the time of rest Not only do we wish to regenerate the land and
These global standards provide an opportunity for which they roam, have provided us with so much and in between foraging, the expansion of energy use serve and communicate such, but also to build. In an

increasingly fragmented society are all connected. It is like the of collective action that is to breed
we wish to knit a community regenerative ecosystem on the such success.
of “regenerationists”, that is a farm where all aspects of the
We do not just dream though.
community of like-minded people biophysical system are connected,
The call to action is too strong,
from the primary producer to such is the ecosystem of the fabric
too urgent, too much part of who
the end consumer wearing the we wear.
we are and of our fibre as an
responsibly produced apparel, It is also like the sheep and angora organization. In bringing together
who all value regeneration. The goat herds standing together facing a herd of “regenerationists” BKB
farmer applying the regenerative the storm in a unified manner. By has already engaged counterparts
principles on the rangeland, the gleaning invaluable lessons from across the entire value chain to
support person measuring and the success of animals we seek to become part of the emerging
monitoring the progress, the co-develop and nurture a herd of success and to be co-creators of
marketer selling the produce, “regenerationists”. The on-farm regeneration across South Africa’s
the artisan manufacturing the success is as much a success to landscape. This is a journey of joy
garment, the salesperson, and the one wearing the apparel as it and healing, and we invite you to
the person wearing the garment is to the farmer, thus it is a story join us.
The Mohair Empowerment Trust
T
he Mohair Empowerment has also seen a number of students
Trust is a non-profit receive crucial training in mohair
organisation established classing.
in 2010. The mohair
At a producer level, the goal is
industry saw the need to
to help previously disadvantaged
focus on uplifting and partnering
farmers become financially
with emerging South African
independent by becoming
farmers who show potential to
productive members of the South
succeed in the mohair farming
African mohair industry. Beauty
industry.
Mokgwamme, the Empowerment
Working with Mohair South Africa, Trusts officer, spends countless
the Trust supports, guides and hours on the farms, working with
develops the skills of these farmers the identified projects and assisting
by providing them with Angora them in their journey to becoming
goats via interest free loans, helping commercial farmers. The Trust’s
them to achieve their goals while simultaneously primary objective is to provide skills development,
increasing South African production of the luxurious support, mentorship, and assistance to emerging
and sought-after mohair fibre. farmers to establish and manage their own agricultural
In addition to supporting emerging farmers, the Trust operations.
works alongside the Mohair Growers’ Association The MET is currently running ten projects spread
for the continuous training and development of throughout the mohair farming district, and we are
farmworkers and shearing teams. An ongoing proud to share that all ten projects passed their RMS
relationship with Grootfontein College of Agriculture audits and are officially 100% RMS certified!
RESPONSIBLE MOHAIR STANDARD
been RMS certified. The South Oritain, founded in 2008 out of Oritain Chief Strategy Officer,
African mohair farmers produced the University of Otago NZ by Rupert Hodges, says, “Mohair
2,160,000kg mohair in 2020. The Professor Russel Frew – a world- South Africa’s commitment to
South African Mohair Industry aims leading expert and advisor to the innovation and sustainability is vital
to reach 80% RMS certified mohair UN – uses forensic science to in not only protecting this luxurious
South Africa currently produces approximately 50% of the world’s mohair, determine the origin of products. and sustainable fibre but also in
by the end of 2022. Since RMS
accounting for nearly 30,000 jobs for local South Africans. Mohair - certified mohair has been available Oritain’s primary goal is to be the helping to drive a more innovative
the “noble fibre” - is lustrous, resilient and offers exceptional colour at auction, the demand for mohair world’s most trusted company at and sustainable industry. And we’re
reflection, leading to a global reputation for luxury and exclusivity. has spiked at the back-end of 2020. scientifically verifying the origin incredibly pleased to be partnering
But, more importantly, it is sustainable. of products. Oritain has offices in with them to protect the global
More than 600 companies New Zealand, the UK, Australia, the reputation of South African mohair
S
worldwide have been RMS/RWS/ USA, and Switzerland. and help support the wider work
outh Africa takes pride in industry. The Responsible Mohair the process, Mohair South Africa, RAS certified post farm gate, they’re doing; for example, looking
being the world leader in Standard aims to provide the with the help of the South African With their long-term commitment
including companies throughout at how we can also support their
mohair production and industry with the tools to recognise Mohair Grower’s Association to sustainability and ensuring the
the mohair value chain that enable Empowerment Trust Programme.”
shows its commitment highest levels of social and ethical
the best practices of farmers and (SAMGA) and the industry RMS mohair to reach the end
to the mohair industry production and now traceability, Mohair South Africa believes that
to ensure that mohair comes from veterinarian, Dr Mackie Hobson, consumer.
through the development Mohair SA with Oritain, a world shared knowledge, a vigorous
farms with an advanced approach developed a series of best
of a sustainable and ethical mohair Producing mohair ethically and leader in using forensic science to commitment to continuous
to land management, animal practice videos based on the RMS
standard. Mohair South Africa sustainably is a non-negotiable for verify the origin of products and improvement, and progressive,
welfare, and social responsibility. specifications when working with ethical, and sustainable attitudes
the South African mohair industry, raw materials.
partnered with Textile Exchange, a Beyond the farm, it also aims to Angora goats. SAMGA also host
and the roll-out of the RMS play a vital role in the success of
global non-profit organisation that provide a system of traceability information days and farmworker Oritain uses a combination of
remains a priority. the mohair industry.
specialises in intricately developing throughout the entire value chain training days throughout the forensic science and technology
standards based on best practices, – from the farm to the finished mohair producing areas, focusing to analyse mohair fibre and verify “It is imperative that the mohair
Innovation – Oritain Partnership exactly which country it comes industry acknowledges and
animal and social welfare. product. on the well-being, health and
Mohair South Africa, the industry from. This gives manufacturers, encourages the advancement
On the 17th March 2020, the handling of Angora goats.
Since the launch of the RMS, the body for mohair in South Africa, brands, and consumers peace of of mohair as a fully traceable
Responsible Mohair Standard main focus of the South African The certification bodies have done has increased its commitment to mind that the mohair used in their natural fibre. With transparency
(RMS) was officially launched, mohair industry has been the roll- an excellent job over the last year, sustainability by partnering with fabrics is 100% South African – being of key importance, the
opening up a world of opportunity out of the RMS and getting mohair and currently, around 60% of the the scientific traceability company, the most ethical and sustainable technology Oritain offers will
for the future of the mohair farmers certified. To accelerate South African mohair clip has Oritain. mohair in the world. enhance the industry’s future in

“
sustainable sourcing”, says Siobhan Momberg, Marketing and
Communications Officer at Mohair South Africa.
Today’s young consumers are acutely “Mohair South Africa’s partnership with Oritain highlights
aware of the impact their purchase the industry’s commitment towards a more sustainable and
decisions have on the planet as well as on future responsible mohair industry and aligns with the progressive
generations. The principles of environmental uptake of the Responsible Mohair Standard that launched in
awareness and sustainability are of paramount March 2020. Mohair South Africa believes that sustainability
importance in the choices a new socially aware is a journey, and taking our environment, animals and people
generation of consumers is making. into consideration is our number one priority. Incorporating
scientific traceability through Oritain, we believe that the
‘The development and refinement of the future of the Mohair Industry looks promising”.
Responsible Wool Standard as well as the
Responsible Mohair Standard speak to these Innovation – Regenerative Grazing
new increasingly non-negotiable requirements Regenerative agriculture has become a topic on everyone’s
and the market is playing its part in delivering lips. Many brands and retailers across the globe are looking
premiums for certified clips that address the to source fibres and raw materials from farms that use a
demand supply disequilibrium that currently progressive approach to holistic farm management practices.
exists. The rapid adoption of the RMS standard Such practices are essential as they help revitalise the soil,
illustrates the understanding that growers, capture carbon, and increase carbon food security while
brokers, and processors in South Africa have of storing water.
this new reality. Their reward is continued and “Most of our South African mohair farmers in some way
expanding market access in a highly competitive or form already farms with holistic management practices,
environment. without it being measured, which would be the next step for
‘Wool and mohair, as natural fibres with unique the Mohair Industry. Our farmers are aware that the future
generation will have no viable land to farm on if they do not
qualities, have an innate advantage in delivering
manage their lands efficiently” says Siobhan Momberg.
sustainable, traceable, and responsible solutions
for today’s world and the longer-term success
of both these industries depends on them
embracing the change the world demands. No
doubt the costs of compliance has risen, and
it will be necessary for everyone in the supply
chain to address this by adopting pragmatic and
responsible steps to avoid duplication, irrational
standard demands or unjustifiable costs.
‘But, as the supply side increases production
of truly sustainable raw materials, economies
of scale will follow to contain costs while at
the same time creating a not-so-new niche
where natural fibres lead the way in delivering
genuinely sustainable choices to a demanding
new consumer’.
Anthony Kirsten
CEO Stucken Group
Lush pastures after the introduction of holistic farm management practices
The fully automatic DYEMATIC system ensures a high
level of automation, flexibility, and maximum efficiency
in weighing, handling, dissolving, and dispensing powder
dyes. It employs robotic bucket handling, automatic
dispensing, rinsing, and an isolated working area for
perfect environmental and safety conditions. This
system can service a large number of dyeing machines
with maximum efficiency, and eliminates pollution risks
achieved through the use of special valves and joints.
‘The semi-automatic options allow for some

Massimo Graziano staff involvement, compared to no staffing
required for fully automatic options.
‘We supply the textile industry with products,
Environmentally friendly solutions, and services to increase the
textile dyeing reliability, safety and efficiency of dosing and
dispensing operations for powder and liquid
dyes. Our new generation automated colour
By Victor Chesky
kitchen creates dyeing processes that are safer
D
and more environmentally sustainable’, he
concludes.
yeing processes can be a major
contributor to environmental pollution. Mr. Massimo Graziano
The latest innovation in fully automated [email protected] www.lawer.com
systems introduced by Lawer plays an
important part in minimising the harmful
of both water availability and waste. ‘Water waste
impact on the environment from dyeing
and contamination is a major issue for our industry
processes. This has contributed to Lawer being
but our Lawer systems use a small quantity of water,
awarded Green Label-Environmental Credentials. I and even the water that is used is re-used to clean
asked Massimo Graziano, Area Manager at Lawer the pipes. The single pipeline integrated into our
in Italy, about the latest solutions their automatic automatic systems guarantees no contamination,
systems offer textile manufacturers wanting to flexibility and reduction of water consumption’,
introduce environmental friendly and safe practices comments Massimo Graziano. ‘As environmental
in their dyeing processes, for both powder and liquid compliance requirements that are now enforced by
dyes. strict European regulations, automated systems are
‘Initially textile manufacturers were focused on a norm for leading manufacturers in Europe and now
automating their dye plants to manage hazardous increasingly in China’.
working conditions. Fully automated systems provide ‘Of course there are a number of further
a safe work environment, eliminating the need for advantages that our automated systems provide the
people working on the floor, and therefore mistakes manufacturer’, he says. ‘Consistent quality from one
and accidents are also eliminated’, he says. Today batch to the next, with no variation from one year to
Lawer automated systems are also favoured by textile the next’, says Massimo Graziano. The TD-LAB employs a high speed robotized arm for bottler handling and monopipette placement, rinsing, and drying. It dispenses into
manufactures globally for their ability to minimise the laboratory beakers or directly into sample or production machines. It can receive powdered dye for the solution by a manual or automatic
‘All our systems are modular and can be bought weighing dissolving system designed by Lawer.
negative impact on the environment.
separately, according to customer requirement. The
The automatic powder dyestuff weighing and dissolving system automatically weighs and dissolves small quantities of powder dyestuff,
Unlike other machines Lawer equipment uses very level of automation can also be tailored to each preparing liquid solutions to be dispensed into laboratory, sampling and production dyeing machines. The system can be connected to
little water, a major issue for the industry in terms customer as needed. the laboratory machine mod. TD-MATIC which automatically prepares standard solutions [gr/L ratios.]

The heat vapour Creative Director of Shima
treatment that joins the Seiki Italia, Vittorio
two layers of knitwear. Branchizio, showing
the ‘double face’ structure
of the knitwear.
of knits, the first made using partners to work on the capsule

Merino wool yarn which provides collection.
a beautiful texture and luxurious “At AWI, we are always looking
Dress and bomber jacket made with Coat, jumper and trousers made with Coat, jumper and trousers made with
touch, and the second made using for new product and process
Tollegno 1900 yarns. Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia yarns. Filati Loro Piana yarns. a TPU Evolution® yarn, from Italian developments; it’s important that
TAILORED KNITWEAR
company CoatYarn SRL, which the supply chain continues to work
have produced structures with the
provides a ‘peach-like’ touch. The together, nowadays more than
latest generation machines from
result is a garment that is more ever,” Birgit said.
Shima Seiki, using Merino wool
rigid, yet elastic and soft to touch.
yarns from three different spinners “Collaborations such as this not
The combination of the two knitted from the Biella region,” said only stimulate the supply chain to
materials, created when the TPU Creative Director of Shima Seiki undertake innovative R&D, but it
Evolution® yarn melts during a Italia, Vittorio Branchizio. also provides new opportunities
for people on the go heat treatment, provides wool

knitwear garments with a new
The production process is an
environmentally friendly one that
for the whole textile supply
chain, from manufacturers to
and contemporary look. As well brands, to create new commercial
avoids the traditional cut and sew
With the aim to create new commercial opportunities for wool, AWI and industry partners have as having wool’s usual benefits
including comfort, natural stretch,
technique and uses exactly the
opportunities for wool, in this case
for the urban and contemporary
correct quantity of yarn, thereby
developed a modern new look for suiting, using knitwear technology rather than woven fabrics. thermoregulation and odour- and
wrinkle-resistance, this unique
resulting in less fabric waste than
market favoured by the younger
generations.”
A
traditional garment manufacturing.
fabrication provides additional Shima Seiki and AWI are now
WI has collaborated with interpretation of tailoring by using woven fabrics. The garments are Furthermore, no linings are
performance benefits such as reaching out to companies and
knitting machine company an innovative form of knitwear. a showcase of the latest knitting needed with these garments.
water repellency and minimal brands across the world to offer
Shima Seiki Italia and technology from Shima Seiki as
Titled ‘Wool To Go – Tailored Knit’, chance of pilling. New opportunities for wool them a presentation of the capsule
three Merino wool yarn well as Woolmark-certified Merino
manufacturers in Italy – Filati Loro the collection comprises three wool yarns. “All three of the outfits originated AWI’s Research & Development collection. The fabrics from the
Piana, Tollegno 1900, and Zegna outfits that provide a modern from the same creative matrix, Manager for Europe, Birgit Gahlen, collection are featured in AWI’s The
Baruffa Lane Borgosesia – to and urban take on the classic Innovative fabric construction conceiving a man and a woman was instrumental in setting up the Wool Lab Digital sourcing guide.
create a ‘first of its kind’ capsule formal look using knitted fabrics, The fabrics have a ‘double face’ always in motion, metropolitan, collaboration with Shima Seiki and More information:
collection that offers a new rather than traditionally used structure comprising two layers and with this thought in mind we brought together all the project www.woolmark.com/tailoredknit

MATTY BOVAN
wins 2021 International Woolmark Prize
he International Woolmark Prize recognises emerging fashion talent

showcasing the versatility of Australian Merino wool. Through the decades
iconic names in fashion such as Giorgio Armani, Gabriela Hearst, and Emily
Bode have received awards. Matty Bovan, the York-based designer, who trained
under Marc Jacobs, received the top honour in 2021. His label is known for
its signature kaleidoscopic knitwear, statement accessories, and unexpected
“
textures.
Matty Bovan’s collection of Merino wool garments focuses on sustainability and
transparency throughout the supply chain. To create the collection, he worked with What impressed me
local suppliers and used dead stock fabrics to create six pieces in jacquard weave
designs with innovative styles and intricate designs, themed as an ode to the sea,
about Matty is his
escapism, and the story of British naval officer Horatio Nelson, with a naval jacket capacity to win both
screen-printed with Nelson’s portrait and acid-dyed cable knits. awards – for his
“What impressed me about Matty is his capacity to win both awards – for his innovation innovation and creativity
and creativity and I really think he deserves it,” said Carine Roitfeld. “He is pure fashion, he and I really think he
makes me dream and he reminds me of a young Vivienne Westwood or a John Galliano deserves it. He is pure
and we desperately need that sort of designer in the fashion world of today.” fashion, he makes
The prize categories include the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, and the newly me dream and he
introduced Woolmark Supply Chain Award – won by China’s Nanshan Group. Finalists reminds me of a young
were selected from 380 applicants from 55 countries, include the UK’s Bethany Williams,
Vivienne Westwood or
France’s Casablanca, Nigeria’s Kenneth Ize, Canada’s Lecavalier, and South Africa’s Thebe
Magugu. All entries were showcased in a short film by artist Solange Knowles’ newly- a John Galliano and we
expanded creative agency Saint Heron and directed by MacArthur Fellowship–winning desperately need that
artist Wu Tsang. Called “Passage,” the film features musicians and actors modelling the sort of designer in the
garments. fashion world of today
”
The judging panel included Thom Browne, Carine Roitfeld, Ib Kamara, Shaway Yeh, Sinéad
Burke, Tasha Liu, Tim Blanks and Julie Davies. “When I see your collection, I see moving
things forward and a real hunger for showing people what they haven’t seen before
Carine Roitfeld
and that is something that is really necessary right now and so inspiring,” said Browne. Judging panel member
“The way you used wool didn’t seem like much of a challenge – you were able to do so

NZ Halo Wool
Designs by Lecavalier & Matty Bovan (still from the film Passage)
for insulating fabric
H
alo Wool by John Marshall & Co in New
Zealand is an insulating fabric that offers
exceptional insulating performance.
Peter Crone, Company CEO, says of the
development of its Halo Wool: ‘It is ideal for
warmth without bulk for insulation linings to outdoor
leisurewear. We have developed HALO WOOL KNIT out
of a desire to create high performance products with a
lower ecological footprint’.
‘We source our wool from selected New Zealand
farms where sheep are grass-fed, free to roam and
raised in family flocks. Every farmer we work with
Passage is a motion portraiture work that celebrates each 2021 International Woolmark Prize finalist and their personal design journeys. is committed to promoting healthy ecosystems and
Concepted and produced by Solange Knowles and Saint Heron, the theatre presentation explores the process of design, gaining insight following the international five freedoms for animal
into the minds behind the creations and the innovations with Merino wool. What starts as a singular idea manifests into an ecosystem of welfare’, he comments.
collective consciousness as each designer breathes life into their works. Passage is a deeply thoughtful exploration of sustainability, and
the stages of creation: contemplation, courage, optimism, vulnerability, discipline and strength. HALO WOOL KNIT is primarily composed of New
Zealand grown crossbred wool – a naturally produced
much with the medium. So, thank you for the huge fibre that is 100% biodegradable. It is origin verified
inspiration and the life that you put in your collection.” by Oritain and certified by OEKO-Tex to contain
no harmful chemicals, and creates a minimal
“It’s a huge honour to win these prizes and I’m
environmental footprint.
so excited for where it’s going to take me”, said
Bovan. “I was already so thrilled with the Woolmark Halo Wool uses strong wool fibres that are knitted
Prize platform and experience. Being a part of the through a mesh of CICLO polyester yarn to create
International Woolmark Prize has really helped elevate a stable low profile insulation layer that provides
my brand and elevate my awareness and knowledge warmth without bulk. HALO WOOL KNIT in clothing
of how I operate as a business and as a label. It’s been takes advantage of the best performance attributes
amazing and I have loved every minute of it.” of wool, to create products that are environmentally
friendly, beautifully light, and comfortable to wear. It Strong wool fibres are knitted through a mesh
‘Through the competition, I learned a lot about raw
is washable and scrim can be easily applied, offering of CICLO polyester yarn to create a stable low profile
materials and the processes behind them,” he says. insulation layer for warmth without bulk
“The experience has opened my eyes to how I can be
an even better brand and designer in that respect.
many opportunities to designers and manufacturers
It’s a huge honor, and I’m so excited about where the
from tailored street wear to sport or endurance gear.
wins will take me,” said Matty Bovan. The prize money
offers him the opportunity to continue to experiment Halo Wool is represented in Europe by KoFibres
with new ideas and bring the world he’s created ([email protected]). Peter Crone in New Zealand
Matty Bovan with International Woolmark Prize through clothing to an entirely new audience. can be contacted at [email protected] www.halowool.nz

way. It offers the patented EXP wool treatment to There is a very noticeable growing demand for natural
produce washable wool without chlorine. It even fibers with a blend of sustainable man-made fibers
allows garments to be tumble dried. EXP completely that are either recycled, degradable or bio-based to
eliminates the use of chlorine or harmful gases and further improve the natural functions of such fibre
uses natural salts as oxidizers. The wastewater from as wool. In this sense, depending on requirements,
the process is so clean that it can be discharged into well-known as well as advanced spinning technologies
the normal wastewater system. are also used, especially in the fine sector, such as Siro
Plus, Core or CMP.
Schoeller is also pushing ahead with projects and
certifications to actively reduce other emissions in The transport sector is another area in which natural
manufacturing and optimize energy efficiency and fibers and yarns are experiencing a major boom. For
offers yarns with certifications by Bluesign®, GOTS, EU example, the product Alpaca Nature, developed for
Ecolabel, IVN, Nativa, RWS, and Eco-Tex Standard. the automotive industry, is Nm28/2, with 30% alpaca
fine in undyed natural colors and 70% polyester from
Schoeller produces a wide variety of yarns used in
GRS certified source. The untreated fibers of Alpaca
fashion, outdoor, socks, military, automotive and skin-
Nature are sorted by color. This allows melange colors
tight garments, technical, protective and functional
without the need of water for the dyeing process.
textiles. The breadth of Schoeller’s range includes
The fashion, home textiles, and automotive industries
industrial yarns, technical yarns, functional yarns,
have already discovered this yarn. Natural dyes are
hosiery yarns, weaving yarns and automotive yarns.
a huge advantage for sustainability or, as many say,
‘Our selection of functional yarns is perfect for sports, “a new level of sustainability (NLS).” The market’s
outdoor and underwear for their specific properties in great interest in Schoeller NLS products and alpaca
Progress for Seamless and Fine Counts thermo-regulation and flame retardant,” says Marco is confirmed by their current use in the automotive
Zaffalon. “Fine merino wool is increasingly used as industry for seat covers.
a functional fiber because wool naturally has more
YARNS
‘Very important for a reliable supply of a variety of
functionality than classic man-made fibers. That is why
Alpaca Nature yarns is fast production, a reliable fiber
we have consistently expanded our range to include
stock, and a stock program for the flat knitting sector,’
very fine yarns, depending on the fiber and blend, up
Marco Zaffalon explains, “as some brands also use
with a particular focus

to Nm 120. Such products work only using the highest
our Alpaca Nature (70%wool/30%alpaca) for alpaca
quality wool raw materials’. garments in the upscale fashion industry.”
H
A popular yarn in the Schoeller collection is the ‘We can look forward to further sustainable
ACTIVE EXP yarn with 80% superfine merino wool innovations, or as Schoeller puts it: Innovation +
ow to leave a cleaner, healthier its dyeing mill in Austria, and spinning mill in the Czech
(machine washable chlorine-free) and 20% polyamide Sustainability = Sustainnovation’.
environment for the next generation Republic. About 3 years ago the Schoeller Spinning
(recyc.), Nm 85/1 S & Z with ideal seamless processing
and look good and feel good doing Group, which continues to operate independently, properties. ‘Our yarn PROGRESS EXP Nm 100,
it is the challenge for all textile became part of Indorama Holdings, one of the largest combines superfine merino wool with Tencel. These
manufacturers in the 21st century. polyester producers in the world. are the ideal blending partners with excellent wearing
The key to producing environmentally
An important part of its know-how comes from its properties for a super light first layer in the outdoor
compatible qualitative high-value textile products with
broad fiber production portfolio. Fibers such as wool sector,’ says Marco Zaffalon. Due to its hydrophobic
high functionality is the main goal for the industry.
and alpaca form an important product focus for the fiber shell, the merino wool transfers some of the
Schoeller’s manufacturing processes are always
Schoeller yarn range, and focuses on the development moisture to the Tencel fiber, which is a strong and
focused on ecological compatibility with smart textile
of specific yarns for special applications, and program efficient moisture buffer. Because it still feels dry even
technologies. ‘From our point of view, sustainability
qualities. Schoeller works closely with fiber suppliers, at 30% moisture absorption, the soft feel remains
is a driver for innovation, design, functionality and
designers, fabric and apparel manufacturers, and comfortable even with increased moisture. In turn,
quality’, says Marco Zaffalon, COO of Schoeller
Tencel, which comes from sustainable sources, is up
Spinning Group. ‘The sustainable orientation is consumer groups, to develop sustainable and
to 50% more absorbent than cotton. ‘Demand for
fundamental to our production and supply chain.’ functional products.
this type of yarn is growing rapidly, especially for our
Alpaca fibre used on the seat shown using flat knit technology,
Schoeller produces worsted yarns from pure wool, Schoeller was the first company to ban chlorine from EXP-treated yarns. This allows garments to be washed is a further step towards fully implementing sustainability
wool blends, and over a hundred other fiber types at wool processing or finishing in a market-relevant robustly, including lightweight garments’. in the automotive sector

STANDARD WOOL
Canadian wool ranges from 22 - 35
microns with the bulk of
production being between 29 -31
WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS

microns. Only 10% of Canada’s
wool production is consumed
domestically, and the remaining
90% is exported to Europe, China,
FOLLOW.
USA, Egypt, South America and
India.
All CCWG wool is weighed and
graded into fine, medium and
A
coarse lines. The graded bales WITH OVER 200 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE, STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY AND
lthough Canada’s 1.5 Wool Growers (CCWG). ‘Covid has
million kilos of greasy wool had an unprecedented impact on
are then cored and objectively SERVICING MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES WORLD WIDE, IT’S NOT SURPRISING MORE
measured by New Zealand Wool
production is a fraction of many industries including textiles. AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE TURNING TO US FOR ALL THEIR WOOL REQUIREMENTS.
wool production globally, Testing Authority (NZWTA).
Textile companies throughout the
it has developed a niche world are increasingly facing higher The raw wool is inspected by hand
in the market for its high-quality, and classified by average diameter
costs such as transportation and WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK
soft handle and highly elastic energy. The challenge is how to and length of the fibre, colour,
characteristics. This elasticity or effectively return to normality and lustre and crimp (tight, natural
springiness enables wool to retain wave). The graded greasy wool
profitability’.
its original shape. It also offers is packed into 600 kilo bales and
excellent options for blending with He also adds, ‘As wool prices in shipped to world markets.
other wools, or for use in its own Australia, South Africa, and New
right for a wide range of products. Zealand have been rising, and ‘Accurate measuring for each wool
as demand increases it makes lot offered for sale is appreciated
‘Wool processors in Europe, China,
good commercial sense to add by our customers around the
USA, Egypt and South America
alternative wool supply channels to world. They know they are
have been using Canadian wool for
existing pipe lines. This will create receiving a well prepared, good STANDARD WOOL (UK)
many years and use it in a variety
cost-saving options while retaining quality wool’. +44 (0)1274 756600
of applications and blending
options’, says Eric Bjergso, General margins without compromising on For more information contact Mr STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing)
Manager at Canadian Co-operative quality’. Eric Bjergso Email: [email protected] +86 25 5807 1182
WWW.REALWOOLSHOP.CA WWW.PREMIER-CHOIX.CA
PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL

SAVIO
SOLUTIONS
RWS wool and tops from Argentina
L
empriere Argentina Argentine top. This aspect
is the biggest of our business has been
#WOOL
exporter of greasy increasing steadily. We now
wool, exporting make tops locally here in
over 42.8% of the Argentina and it is all GOTS
Argentine wool and RWS certified.
clip. It has been supplying
‘Our workers are the key to
Responsible Wool Standards
our success. Even during
(RWS) certified Argentine
lockdown, when they did
wool for many years.
not have to come to work,
Argentina’s wool industry was
early to back environmental they all turned up. They are
as committed as we are to
INNOVATIVE AND DIVERSIFIED Since 1911, Savio is a leading supplier of winding machines
for manufacturing yarns from staple fibers, providing
qualifications for its wool,
embracing accreditations best practice and quality PRODUCT PORTFOLIO products and services that are tailored to satisfy every
as early as 2008. Lempriere outcomes. We have well FEATURING BEST-IN-CLASS customer demand. To decide which technology is best suited
to your needs, Savio offers numerous solutions to support
Argentina is also Organic established relationships
with wool growers and have
TECHNOLOGICAL KNOW-HOW the quality of the final yarn product.
certified for customers that
been buying wool from the www.saviospa.com
require the most rigorous
environmental certification same farmers for decades’,
and although not available in big quantities, the supply says Mariano Guerra. The
is growing to reflect the demand. company is also very committed to assisting farmers to
be RWS certified. ‘We are available to give advice and
‘The demand for Organic and for RWS has increased help with shearing and documentation’, says Mariano
dramatically in recent years. Almost all of our Guerra.
European customers ask for RWS. In addition our
customers in China are now also asking for our ‘Our Patagonian wool continues to be a favourite
Argentine RWS certified wool’, says Claudio Ulrich, with top makers internationally’, says Claudio Ulrich.
Managing Director of Lempriere Argentina. Favourable conditions have produced really good
quality wool last season with much less vm and an
‘The delivery of quality wool to our customers is average micron at 19.5 microns. Argentine wool
fundamental to our company ethos. To ensure that is snow white in colour, a very low CVH and VM.
we achieve the best for our customers we have our Patagonia is the home of some of the best quality
own sorting teams travelling to individual farms to wool in Argentina. It is contamination free, and sheep
sort and supervise at the grower level’, he says. ‘After
are Non Mulesed.
the wool is delivered to our warehouse it is sorted
again to ensure that our customers receive the wool Most woolgrowers in Argentina shear sheep once a
they specify. Although the wool industry in Argentina year. As the best wools are grown in the Patagonia
has its own national certification program in sorting region, with a very short wool growing season, the
standards under the “Prolana” policy, we go one step best wools sell out quickly. ‘We do try to ensure that
further to make sure our wool exceeds even this level we can provide the best quality wool all year around
of sorting parameter’. for our customers but buyers should be prepared
to place their orders early. We always encourage
Mariano Guerra, Lempriere senior wool buyer and
our customers to order ahead of each new season’,
trader, adds, ‘Our on-site testing laboratory at the
concludes Claudio Ulrich.
warehouse, where all wool is collected, ensures that
every bale is re-sorted and tested before export. Mariano Guerra can be contacted at
For the last few years we have also been exporting [email protected]
SAVIO
SOLUTIONS
FOR WOOL YARN PROCESSING
Although wool represents 5% of world textile production, in
recent years there has been an increase in demand, especially
in the sportswear sector, for making high-performance technical
Savio Winder EcoPulsarS Plus - R version - Feeding from packages garments. The Italian manufacturer Savio, a specialist for over
100 years in the field of textile machines for yarn finishing, offers
numerous solutions for the winding of fine and luxury yarns.
S
avio has been a technological requests in all markets. Savio offers
and innovative leader in winding systems ideal for multiple
interesting niche areas within needs, supporting customers in
the textile machinery sector this challenging industry with
for over 110 years. It is a new applications delivering the
leading supplier of winding, technological evolution of the
twisting and rotor spinning yarns.
machines. It makes use of the best In recent years there has been an
“value-for-money” machinery increase in demand for wool in
for this sector and has had a the sportswear sector for high-
leading presence in more than performance technical garments.
60 countries in the world. Savio The intrinsic properties of this
has a local approach that allows it natural fiber (effective odor
B-Grade System in winders with automatic feeding Multicone: the digital yarn layering technology to promptly respond to customer control, extraordinary breathability

and excellent moisture The main fields of use are allocating them to a B-Grade winding These features improve the
management) far exceed the rewinding packages coming head. This application is popular downstream production process,
performance of synthetic from the dyeing process, as it allows identification and that is a better wearability
fibers. packages of different shapes separation small batches in knitwear and dye
and packages remnants. of yarn of different uniformity.
Savio offers numerous
quality. It does this
solutions for processing of
Winding machine, special in an economic Continuous
wool and luxury yarns. In
version with feeding from and efficient way, monitoring of yarn
particular, the Savio Polar quality parameters
large bobbins 450 mm for less high end
Evolution and Eco PulsarS Production
While maintaining the same production, such as
Plus winders can be set up efficiency is
performance, flexibility and yarn for selvedge
with different feeding types monitored by
reliability features of the or pieces for dyeing
suitable for the woolen Savio throughout
standard round magazine color samples.
segment (feeding with bobbins the yarn winding
machine, Savio is the only Most importantly,
from 200 to 450 mm, self- process. Continuous
supplier that offers a special it avoids bobbins
acting, packages and remnant with technical faults monitoring of the
machine configuration that
cones) and a complete series being rejected into the parameters is carried
allows for processing large and
of accessories for processing bypass and saves labor in out to guarantee yarn
medium counts, bobbin 450
of wool, cashmere and carded, mm, used in the carded wool monitoring, handling and manufacturers efficiency
semi-worsted, combed, single sector. manual separation. and quality throughout
and twisted yarns in a range of the entire supply chain. From
titles from Nm 1 to Nm 150. the moment the bobbin leaves
Complete series of Multicone technology
the ring spinning machine to continue
accessories to guarantee the The different downstream processes
Splicing technology: Heat the winding process where the yarn is
quality of the yarns. offer greater flexibility in wound package
splicer transferred to the bobbin, the quality and
Savio’s winding unit is construction, to optimize its specific efficiencies.
The experience acquired production parameters are continuously monitored
equipped with control devices Cones for dyeing, warp, weft, knitting and twisting
by Savio with air splicing and saved by Savio winders thanks to the “Savio 4.0”
to ensure perfect density, require completely different formation characteristics
technology, combined with the use of heat at variable digital systems.
metering and perfect package formation. These in terms of geometry, traverse stroke, shape of the
temperatures, allows the creation of aesthetically accessory devices (C.A.D., C.A.M., C.A.P.) are suitable edges and density. The Savio Multicone electronic
beautiful, resistant and reliable joints even with P.T.S. - Package Tracking System
for the processing of the entire yarn count range thread guide system is now the solution to achieve
high-twisted yarns. The field of application of The package traceability system (P.T.S.) is designed by
from Nm 1 to Nm 150. These devices help to produce flexibility in package formation. This solution
the Heatsplicer covers the whole range Nm 1 - 150. Savio to guarantee efficiency and traceability along
packages without ribbon and to guarantee the guarantees precise and controlled deposit of the yarn, the entire supply chain. This becomes very useful for
minimum possibility of breakage and slough-off during especially in the areas of the package edges, where producers of fine and luxury yarns because they can
Waxing - the waxing operation is carried out to unwinding at high speed, especially in fine counts. The the dynamics are more critical because of stroke provide an “identity card” to the yarn and guarantee
lubricate the yarn by minimizing the friction coefficient result is greater efficiency in downstream weaving and inversion effect. greater quality and proof of origin. The package is
with the mechanical parts with which it comes into warping processes. equipped with an RFID tag, applied inside the cone to
contact. This operation is done on yarns used for Twisting machine, Sirius Duo Pot uniquely identify the product and keep track of the
knitting machines, which require a good yarn flow. For The Savio Eco PulsarS Plus winder can be supplied Savio’s DUO POT system offers real direct twisting processes. The system generates a unique ID for each
wool and fine yarns, Savio is the only manufacturer with the B-Grade system. The “B-Grade System” of overlapped packages, it delivers an “all-in- package, which is then associated with the production
that can supply the double motorized waxing device, works in close conjunction with our S.I.S. Spindle one” assembly and twisting. This allows a shorter identification data (bio data), which can be stored
designed to guarantee an even more uniform deposit Identification System, where each bobbin sits on its production cycle by using standard conical packages. in cloud-based applications and recovered from any
on yarn and therefore satisfy the requirements of the own ID-Tagged Peg. One, or more winding spindles Consequently, the constant tension of unwinding two mobile device. The machine computer can supply the
knitting process in the most appropriate way. can be programmed to wind bobbins with non- independent cones and the absence of tangles are bio data of the package, for example: product code,
standard defects, repeatedly rejected by the winding ensured, reducing to a minimum the defects and identity of origin (machine serial number, spindle
“R” version winder: feeding from packages heads, thus producing batches of B-Grade standard. irregularities of the twisted yarn. The yarn obtained number), production date/time, production shift,
R version allows rewinding of packages of any taper, With the “B-Grade System” we identify, thanks to on the Two-for-One Twister is generally more batch name, winding speed, yarn count, number of
producing packages ideal for any subsequent use. S.I.S., such bobbins and save the resulting packages by voluminous, more swollen and of better appearance. joints, length and weight.

AUTHENTICITY
Accessible global testing services

expected to increase as they cement their export
capabilities. International buyers more frequently
request independent certification for the products
they receive. SGS product testing includes a full range
of chemical, performance, mechanical and physical
properties testing, including materials identification,
characterisation, and garment inspection, structural
analysis, materials performance, raw material
properties, environmental and durability testing,
flammability testing, and microscopic analysis.
‘SGS material testing services are a vital tool to
reducing risk in the production process, and ultimately
meeting customer expectation’.
WOOL
Jeremy Wear
MAKING THE
M
For SGS on-line wool testing services visit https://
any wool growers, wool cooperatives, onlinestore.sgs.com/nz and Jeremy’s team can be
traders, processors and textile contacted at [email protected]
companies around the world,
DIFFERENCE
including those in Eastern and
Western Europe, Asia, Africa, the
QUALITY
Americas and the Nordic Region
use SGS Wool Testing Services. ‘SGS
is international, well recognised, and trusted’,
comments Jeremy Wear, SGS Business Manager. DELIVERING HIGH QUALITY
‘We have been testing wool for over 50 years and
Recognized as the global benchmark for quality and integrity. With more
we are the only global laboratory and inspection than 97,000 employees, SGS operates a network of over 2,600 offices
organisation that provides services from the farm and laboratories around the world. Our solutions include:
© SGS Group Management SA – 2019 – All rights reserved – SGS is a registered trademark of SGS Group Management SA
all the way to finished garments. We can provide
• Sampling, supervision and audit
inspection, verification, testing and certification
• Fibers testing from animals, CONTACT US
services – anywhere in the world’. SGS Wool Testing Services
pre-sale and post sale greasy
‘When you need to be sure about the shipment 46-48 Kemp Street, Kilbirnie
P.O. Box 15062
characteristics of wool or any other animal fibre, • Comprehensive yarn fabric and
Miramar, Wellington,
you can order testing services using our online product testing via the SGS
New Zealand
shop. For certification we liaise with the SGS network
TRUST + 64 4 387 8565
office closest to the origin of the wool you wish NOW ONLINE SGS Online Shop
to buy or sell to carry out independent sampling Online access to testing services www.wooltesting.sgs.com
and testing. These services are quick and cost- via the SGS Online Shop or
[email protected]
effective, particularly when a number of samples onlineservices.sgs.com/nz 24/7
SGS Agriculture & Food
are provided. Verifiable reporting is provided SGS Wool Testing Services is an
electronically’, says Jeremy Wear. IWTO licensed laboratory.
Many manufacturing hubs in Eastern Europe

already use SGS testing services and this is
GERMAN WOOL
its use, and its origin, and combine a small niche in the apparel sector, prices for alternative materials
this with fast and flexible delivery and this is now expanded into to wool, the interest in wool
to take advantage of the demand. other sectors. We will continue is slowly but steadily gaining
with John Semmelhaak to support him on this journey acceptance with customers. Many
W
‘One of the first to recognise the
and continue to seek other, non- uses in which wool has proven
opportunities that we can offer has
hile the pandemic consider products wasteful and not competing partners to market the itself as a fibre of choice over
been f.e Marco Scheel, the owner
has only caused a appropriate for our German wool. wool types we have available. many centuries, have often been
of NordWolle, who shares our
short interruption However, as is often the case you forgotten and this knowledge must
business outlook. ‘Due to the ongoing focus,
following a long just have to find the right partners’. now be rebuilt. The exceptionally
positive trend Nordwolle is based in Germany and on sustainability and climate good insulating properties of
‘As a result of the lack of demand protection, especially in Western
for producers of manufactures high-quality outdoor coarse wool are particularly worthy
from our usual customer base Europe, it was only logical that
fine wool, it was clothing and bedding products. He of mention here. The consumers’
in the Middle and Far East, we we focus on more regional
a difficult time for initially concentrated on old, local desire for more natural renewable
had no choice but to look for
our small German production of and coloured wools. His knowledge chains. We are still suffering from raw materials is helping with
other solutions for the sale of
mostly coarser wool types’, says of wool and its properties and his the bottleneck of processing demand of wool fibre, especially in
German wool. Here, the focus was
John Semmelhaak from Friedrich local background have found value capacities, but we are also working Central Europe.
increasingly on attractive value
Sturm GmbH. The demand on with customers and markets. intensively on further solutions to
chains. As soon as we were able ‘2020 offered a lot of time to
the international markets for avoid or reduce the long transport
to offer our wool processed we ‘We are pleased to partner with reflect and learn. It has proven to
German wool almost completely of wool to further processing and
have been able to gain customers him in collecting and sorting be a good time for new beginnings.
evaporated – with the exception of finishing as much as possible.
in Europe. We promoted our wool German wool for his production. Things are looking better again for
Eider wool, to which all customers
to emphasise its origin and place We are successfully accompanying ‘Due to the increase in all raw the future of German wool’, John
remained loyal.
in history. We were amazed to find him on this path that was initially material prices, including the Semmelhaak concludes.
‘In such times there are really sufficient European processing out how little knowledge about
only two alternatives, either to capacity, nor was it easy to find wool and its properties were left
close down the business, or to see interested producers and retailers in the industry, it was like and it
the problem as an opportunity willing to develop new concepts often felt like we were discussing a
and look for new ways of doing with us. All that most producers completely new material. Instead
things’, John says. ‘In previous could come up with were items of talking about colour, length
years, we had already made with very little added value, and price we now talk about the
attempts to market our wool more such as fertiliser products. We superior properties of wool fibre,
locally and to increase the added
value. This turned out to be very
difficult because there was neither
Marco Scheel NordWolle outdoor wear from current collection

Guaranteed Certification
and Wool Testing Services
from
WTAE
Nestled between the North Wales coast and Mount Snowdon
is the Northern Hemisphere’s only accredited fibre testing
laboratory. Managing director Dr Courtney Pye discusses the Dr Courtney Pye
impact of the previous year and gives assurance of WTAE’s
continued support & service to the wool industry.
T
o say the last year has been unprecedented Accredited Certification
is probably the greatest understatement I
Testing & Report Services
could make. Of course, we are all aware of the
devastating impact of the COVID 19 pandemic. A test result is only as good as the test method
There is not a single aspect of life that has not been used to produce it, which is the reason why we
affected, from the personal cost to the economic cost. are very proud of the accreditation we hold to the
Whilst we were grappling to come to terms with the international standard ISO 17025:2017, and our status
Impartial Wool Testing Services.

restrictions placed on our lives, Wool Testing Authority as an IWTO accredited laboratory. WTAE only use
Europe (WTAE) have also had the additional obstacles IWTO approved test methods and have been issuing
of Brexit. However, despite these challenges, WTAE IWTO certificates to the wool industry for almost 20
continues and will continue to offer an exemplary
service to its clients within the UK, Europe and
years. Our accreditation is assessed annually by the
United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS) from
Guaranteed Certification for a Range
beyond. Our central location on the global map means
we are never too far away from some of the largest
which we receive outstanding reports. WTAE is also
a member of the round trial group known as the of IWTO Test Methods.
transportation hubs in the world. Samples can be with ILRT. Participation in these trials ensures that test
us from anywhere in the world within a few days. We results issued worldwide are harmonised and give our
www.wtaeurope.com
aim to have results out to customers within 24 hours clientele further assurance that WTAE is the Northern
of receipt of samples as standard, with no additional Hemisphere’s leading wool testing house. For further
charge to our customers. information on tests WTAE offer please visit our
website: www.wtaeurope.com.
WTAE can offer an impartial sampling service. Being
in control of the entire testing process, from sampling
through to the issue of a test certificate, WTAE offers ✓ Approved samplers located throughout Europe
a completely impartial service which is fundamental ✓ IWTO licenced laboratory
to the integrity of the service we provide. Wool buyers ✓ UKAS accreditation
and sellers can be fully confident that this impartial
service, coupled with WTAE’s technical ability and ✓ Test report services available
excellent round trial performance gives certified ✓ Member of ILRT group of laboratories
results that can be relied upon time and time again.
We also offer a test report service, and all samples
are still tested in accordance with the IWTO testing
regulations. The service is very popular, especially so
during the pandemic. It has allowed sellers to continue WTAE Ltd, Cibyn Industrial Estate, Caernarfon, UK, LL55 2BD
Tel: +44 (0)1286 678 097 • Email: [email protected]
2680
to gain valuable knowledge about invoices. This means that no back the document held in our
their commodity without the matter where you are in the world secure records. A quick comparison
additional costs of acquiring IWTO or the time, clients can access their will confirm the validity of your
certification during a very difficult test results. certificate.
time commercially. Through the portal, clients can also Despite all the uncertainty, WTAE’s
request document amendments service has remained constant
and check tests. We also operate even through the darkest days of
WTAE Online Portal &
a document verification service. the pandemic.
Document Verification Buyers can authenticate the
We kept our doors open and have
WTAE also offers an online portal certificate which accompanies
weathered the storm of this crisis
to all clients as part of the service. their purchase by submitting a
and I want to take this opportunity
Clients can access test results verification check via our website.
to personally thank all WTAE
as they are completed in the Simply submit the test number of customers and all our staff who
laboratory through this portal and the certificate and the verification continued to work hard through
can also access and download code at the bottom of the restrictions and face masks. Thank
test certificates, test reports and document and WTAE will send you all, Courtney Pye concludes.
Why Schlumberger’s new Schlumberger worsted card installation at Gubb & Inggs South Africa
worsted cards make a difference peripheral speeds, a low

surface load and a transfer to
both delivery doffers having
head. The reducing head is
equipped with its one suction and
dedusting network. The drafting
card sliver and having a positive
impact downstream on the
longevity of all the machine parts
T
By Patrick Strehle
different settings, clothing’s and head is followed by a can coiler in contact with the wool fibres (as
diameters allow to handle the delivery for cans of Dia 1200 or chains, needle bars).
he New Schlumberger • an efficient fibre opening before
fibers gently. 1600 mm, which can be fed with
worsted card W235 in burr removal due to 6 carding The high performance in
up to 90 kg of carded wool sliver.
3.5 m working width groups working on 2 cylinders • with individual motors, all production levels and in efficiency
When several cards are working
was first shown at ITMA (one licker-in and one breast settings are easy to make from a require a perfect control of the
together, each out coming sliver
Milano 2015.This single cylinder), each equipped with touch screen panel and a large running conditions and specifically
can be delivered on a common
or double doffer card is one type of clothing, perfectly storage of working recipes. the air temperature and moisture
conveying system with a reducer
equipped with the new volumetric adapted to the processing of that must be constant and the low
• remote diagnosis for trouble gills before delivery.
hopper-feeder developed with wools containing up to 3 or 4 % and constant wool moisture rate at
Tecnomeccanica Biellese which can vegetable matter on the scoured shooting is possible with that The internal and external card the hopper feeder input.
meet high production levels. This wool. machine. contamination is maintained
continuous flow volumetric feeder at a minimum level due to the The card efficiency can be,
• an increase of the burr removal The new drafting head type at
incorporates a feed silo or can be integrated suction network and a according to the working
power due to tandem burr- the card delivery was developed
equipped with a feed condenser rollers, each individually complete covering of the card and conditions, over 90-92%.
by n. Schlumberger. Numerous
and includes individual motor Patrick Strehle presenting the fibres to a burr- parts are common to the gills; the of the delivery. The W235 card is also available
drives of the main elements which roller. The geometry and the fibre control is done by discs. The in 2.5 m working width and can
Practical and industrial
allow a constant density batt to be it can be equipped with an in feed conception of the burr-roller drafting rates and the pressures be equipped with a single doffer
experiments show that the sucked
fed to the card. auto-leveller working on an X Ray meet the required settings can be adjusted from the card delivery as well as a special
dust and short fibre level is
basis. precisions. control panel screen, due to
In case of high variations of the always inferior to 1% of the card collecting device especially built
moisture rate of the fibres, which The body of the card perfectly • a progressive carding, on an individual drive of the main production (between 0.3 and 0.8%, for fibers having low fiber to fiber
are pneumatically fed to the card, meets production requirements one cylinder working at high elements of that new drafting allowing a better cleanliness of the cohesion like alpaca or mohair.

These cards can perfectly integrate for the textile industry. The wool this time some companies held
complete combing lines proposed sector was hard hit, particularly the back their plans to upgrade their
by n. Schlumberger, together worsted sector. But we are pleased plants with new textile machinery.
with the GC 40’s and the Era 40’s to see that this sector is now As normality returns to the market
combs; allowing top makers to these plans will be brought back
slowly coming out of recession
achieve the best possible results into play and Patrick Strehle urges
and we are pleased to see that the companies not to wait too long to
with their wools. hand knitted sector and technical place orders that could see them
Patrick Strehle concludes that it yarns performed strongly even at the wrong end of a long waiting
has been a difficult couple of year during Covid-19 shutdowns. During list.
This table gives an example obtained with wool (proceeding from the same lot and processed under the same conditions)
of 21.5 with a V. M. content of 1.2% on scoured basis (Australian fleece). Please note the production level of the new card
can be much higher than the figures in the table, if the fibre average strength is high and if the scouring process,
the oiling level are optimized. The burr removal power for both machines is around 92-93%.
W235card 3.5 m w.w. Conventional 3.5 m w.w.

Hm mm 69.2 mm 69.3 mm
CVH % 44.8 45.1
Production k /hr 320 - 350 155
DEMAND
for carbonized wool noils grows
J
iangyin Fengyuan It initially supplied carbonized wool
Carbonizing Co is one noils to companies in Japan only,
of the most specialised but over time it has expanded its
carbonizing processors of exports internationally. It currently
wool noils in the world. It exports over 80% of its production
was established in 2004 in to Europe and beyond. Victor
Jiangyin province China as a joint Chesky asked Tetsuya Motohiro
venture with three companies in Japan, and Yuta Motohiro,
from three countries: Motohiro & who is based in Shanghai, about
Co., Ltd in Japan; G. Schneider in increasing global demand for
Italy; and Sunshine Group in China. carbonized wool noils.

contamination. We are one of managed to stay competitive ’, strong philosophy – traceability,
the few manufacturers around comments Yuta Motohiro. ‘Our animal welfare, and environmental
the world that can meet this present production is over 3000 sustainability are of the utmost
strict standard. This knowledge tons per year. Our Shanghai importance to us’, emphasises
in blending methods and our office is always open for easy and Tetsuya Motohiro. ‘In the past few
unique machinery, in some cases, direct communication with our years we have put much effort
makes us the only manufacturer in customers around the world’. into raising awareness in animal
the world that can supply to this
welfare and we have done this
industry. Around 95% of Jiangyin Fengyuan
with particular focus on the use of
Carbonizing Co production is for
‘In addition we always have non-mulesed wool’, he says.
carbonizing wool noils, and the
approximately 600 tons of wool
noils in stock at all times. This balance for carbonizing Australian ‘We welcome enquiries from
enables us to select the most and New Zealand greasy wools. companies interested in purchasing
appropriate wool noils to blend The company also offers wool products that we manufacture at
and achieve specific results for grease and by-products that can our Jiangyin Fengyuan Carbonizing
each client requirement all year be reused as organic fertilizer and Co’, Tetsuya Motohiro concludes.
around. thread waste and laps are recycled
Please contact Tetsuya Motohiro
into woollen materials.
‘As other carbonizing mills in China on [email protected] or Yuta
have increased their costs we have ‘As a company we have a very Motohiro on [email protected]
Anniversary
Mill manager Mr. Luji and Yuta Motohiro in the warehouse
‘2020 was the most difficult year in Shanghai. ‘We have specific ‘Secondly, we have designed our
for the textile industry, but we advantages that make us different mill with a full set of carbonizing
see a very strong demand for from other supplier of wool noils. machinery from Innami Mill (Japan
carbonized wool noils from felt Wool Textiles Mill). In additional
‘Firstly, we are experienced in
and woollen spinning companies to this we have installed made-
raw material procurement for
continuing into 2022. We expect to-order equipment from Taiwan,
carbonized wool noils. As a by-
the strongest demand will be in for high-quality production for felt
product of wool top making
industrial wool felt’, says Tetsuya makers’, says Yuta Motohiro. ‘Our
production we source wool noils
Motohiro. ‘Industrial wool felt is specialised equipment enables us
from across the world. Each wool
found in a wide range of products to blend and manufacture wool
noil has different qualities and
for filters, acoustic products and noils of unique quality. One of our
characteristics because of weather-
the automotive industry’. biggest customers is manufacturers
related factors and various
of industrial wool felt for pianos.
‘Our mill in Jiangyin is well
placed to accommodate this
blending recipes by wool top
makers. We have the knowledge to ‘This industry demands the

increase in demand’, comments process different and varied quality cleanest noils with the least
Yuta Motohiro, from his office noils from around the world. uncarbonized vegetable

JOMA WOOL® IS FREE FROM
HARMFUL SUBSTANCES.
Unique technology
OUR WOOL PROUDLY MEETS
OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.
for best wool bedding
Joma Wool® Joma Wool® Knops Joma Wool® Batting
So many reasons to love a

J
oma Wool® is a specialty feather and down or who suffer ‘And the benefits of sleep health,
product created by leading
New Zealand wool exporter
John Marshall & Co for
a reaction to synthetic bedding
products. It is also available treated
with UltraFresh, an antimicrobial,
hygiene, and environmental
sustainability are well documented.
As people spend more time at
mattress made with Joma Wool®
manufacturers of mattress antifungal treatment for added home, and their knowledge and
and bedding products protection. preferences for sustainable,
worldwide. A high quality natural comfortable, and fit for purpose
This wool fibre can be used as
fibre, Joma Wool® is fully traceable bedding products will continue to
a loose fill, or as an ingredient
and grown in New Zealand. Unlike grow.
for further manufacturing. Joma
other wools, it undergoes a
Wool® Knops are engineered ‘All our wool is sourced from
special crimping process that adds PROVEN AUTHENTICITY CLEAN & NON-ALLERGENIC FLAME RESISTANT
and specifically designed to be certified farms across New
considerable strength, resilience, Joma Wool® is independently Joma Wool® is clean and non-allergenic. Joma Wool® is safe. Its high
used as a loose fill for interior
and adds 40-50% more bulk. Zealand’, he points out. This verified by Oritain to be of It is also available treated with UltraFresh, keratin and moisture content
furnishings. Joma Wool® Batting
wool is free from APEO, NPEO, genuine New Zealand origin. an antimicrobial, antifungal treatment resists burning without the need
‘When our customers open a bag is a non-woven, layered, 100% for added protection. for harmful chemicals.
pesticides, carcinogenic colourant
of Joma Wool® they’re always wool batt designed for use in
and heavy metals. It meets OEKO-
surprised at how it jumps out mattresses, duvets, and interior
TEX® Standard 100 – the globally
to resume its original volume. textiles. Exotic natural fibres
The crimping process gives it a such as Cashmere and Silk can standardised, independent mark
springiness and loft that makes be added up to 10%wt. Joma of quality for textile products. This
it ideal for mattresses and Wool® Needled Wool is densely certification means that Joma
THERMAL REGULATION SUPERIOR COMFORT MOISTURE CONTROL
bedding products’, says Peter needled 100% wool layering Wool® meets extremely strict limit
Joma Wool® traps air to create Joma Wool’s® special crimping Wool’s unique natural properties
Crone, Managing Director of John increasing the resistance to tearing values for hundreds of harmful a stable microclimate, keeping process makes it feel extra soft and repel liquid from the surface but
Marshall & Co. in all directions and is suitable for substances. sleepers warm in winter and cool springy, and resists compression absorb vapor, so sleepers never feel
construction, apparel or interior in summer. over time. clammy or damp.
In addition to being natural JOMA Wool is represented in
textiles and agriculture. Europe by KoFibres
and sustainable Joma Wool® is
thoroughly cleaned and non- ‘Wool has been used for centuries ([email protected]).
allergenic, making it ideal for to sleep in, sleep on, and sleep Peter Crone in New Zealand can be
customers who are allergic to under’, comments Peter Crone. contacted at [email protected]
Visit our website today to find out more
www.joma.nz
MICHELL90
Alpaca processor turns
w
ell on its way to turning 100, the biggest Alpaca textile
company in Peru has something to celebrate!
‘Not many companies can claim such a position’, says
Juan Pepper, Commercial Manager of Michell & Cía,
from the head office in Arequipa. ‘Three generations
of the Michell family have contributed to a pioneering
endeavour to be the leading Alpaca tops and yarn
producer and exporter in the world.’ Today the
company is vertically integrated from breeding to
retail of the finest Alpaca products. The name Michell
is synonymous with the finest Alpaca tops, yarns and
clothing in the main markets of Asia, Europe, North
and South America.
In 2015 Michell & Cia became the first company
in the world to offer certified organic Alpaca.
The company’s Alpaca farm is the largest private
one in Peru, with over 4,000 Alpacas over more
than 3,000 hectares in the highlands of Puno region.
But it all started in 1920 with Frank W. Michell, an
experienced sorter and exporter of greasy Alpaca fibre.
‘By 1931 Frank W. Michell founded Michell & Cía in
Arequipa to purchase, classify and commercialise
Alpaca fiber. Juan Pepper comments, ‘In those early
days the raw materials were gathered in the southern
sierra of the country, hand sorted, transported by
train to the port of Mollendo before being shipped to
destinations such as Bradford in the United Kingdom
and Boston in North America. It was Frank W. Michell
who developed special classification of the Alpaca fiber
by quality, colour and length. This has left a lasting
legacy in the industry and these standards are used
today in trading of Alpaca worldwide.’
In 1947 Michell & Cía set up the first combing and
spinning plant in Peru and in so doing, created and
established the standard for the Alpaca industry, not
just in Peru, but all over the world.
F W Michell’s vision to increase the value of Alpaca
fibre and a selective breeding program developed over
a number of years has been successful. Improvements
in industrial processes including scouring, carding,
combing, spinning, dyeing and weaving, and sales

initiatives to the final consumer have all ‘As part of our sustainability
played their part in this prosperous business and animal welfare commitment
model. at Michell we certified our mills
with RWS (Responsible Wool
Today Michell is committed to
Standard) last February, allowing our
the sustainable production company to start offering RWS certified
of tops and yarns. ‘Our wool yarns to our customers, and
new sustainability with RAS when the first lots are
platform – Origins by available’.
Michell – demonstrates
Michell’s commitment to
the steps we are taking to
full sustainability includes
becoming a sustainable
certification with Peru Michell Sustainable Green Colours Michell Upcycle Yarns
company. We provide
Fair Trade Certification for
information about animal
Business Practices issued we are producing around 25 -27% less CO2 than our Michell Sustainable Green Colours is the result of
welfare, fiber traceability, by the Promotional Agency
organic Alpaca, fair trade former energy base of petrol. The second program the company commitment to offer a sustainable
of Peru, PromPeru, in April is our “Hilado Verde” arborization project that has and environmentally friendly line of colours. After
practices, initiatives 2020. ‘We are proud to helped planting trees in the city of Arequipa, to reduce researching the latest developments in colours,
for a greener world, be the first spinning mill the carbon footprint and most importantly to provide Michell has been able to source purified organic
certifications, and our CO2 in Peru to have obtained a source of oxygen to this city so high above sea level. dye stuffs from Italy, also used for the food and
footprint’, says Juan Pepper. such certification’, he ‘We have planted and overseen the growth of more pharmaceutical industry. These dye stuffs are non-
‘Alpaca welfare is a priority at remarked. ‘Transparency, than 1,400 trees on the outskirts of the city. We seek
responsibility, fair business toxic for those who handle and use them, and do not
Michell. Through our Michell to replicate this initiative each year. Sustainability
practices, payment of a fair harm the environment.
Farm, we conduct a series of means being proactive with initiatives that care
price, no discrimination, no Sustainable Green Colours are GOTS Certified, Oekotex
workshops for training and for our environment and seeing ways to reduce
to child labour, and respect
assisting Alpaca breeders negative impacts on our world. We presented our 100 and ECO PASSPORT by Oekotex. They comply
for the environment are all
in Peru. This includes first voluntary sustainable report in 2019 in order to with REACH and are free of amines, allergens and
enshrined in our ethical
encouraging free range and make known the actions we have taken as a company’, halogens. The colours are brilliant and reproducible
business model.’
comfort, providing access comments Juan Pepper. and colour fastness meets the textile standards (3 and
to grasses and water, Michell’s social responsibility over). Sustainable Green Colours are available in 100%
for its workers and their Raul Rivera adds, ‘We have also launched Michell Labs
promoting good health, Platform which offers customers the option to create Alpaca, 100% Wool and blends of Alpaca /Wool.
and practicing careful fiber families includes the Mirasol
School for children of the their own custom made yarn and present 3 initiatives Michell Upcycle Yarns aim to reduce the waste
shearing’, says Raul Rivera, Marketing Manager. ‘We that are focused on sustainability’.
Alpaca breeders’ families in Puno, providing boarding generated in the different production processes of top
have also launched a traceability programme for
accommodation and education. The company also Sustainable Easy Wash Alpaca® is an anti-shrinkage making and spinning, applying new ways of using the
Alpaca and will soon do so for the other natural fibers
provides projects for female empowerment and work enzymatic and oxidants treatment that allows the surplus material. Unlike recycling, upcycling does not
we work with, and we are proud to have the first fully
training, as well as the Michell Art Contest that has use of Alpaca yarns in new products that require destroy materials to recompose them, but gives them
certified organic Alpaca farm’.
been preserving the rich Peruvian millinery and textile machine washing, which will not shrink more than a new use without degrading or decomposing them.
‘After almost 12 months of hard work with Textile tradition for over 40 years. 8%. In this process the natural character of the
Exchange and the main Alpaca stakeholders in Peru, fiber is maintained, and not covered with synthetic ‘It has been a rewarding journey for us since Frank
‘As part of our sustainability program we are aiming
we have also been instrumental in drafting and material. A cleaner, whiter fiber is obtained compared Michell started the company, and was followed by
to reduce and compensate our CO2 footprint and
launching the RAS (Responsible Alpaca Standard) to the yellowing acquired by other treatments. The his son Michael Michell. Grandson Derek Michell
emissions. We have started with two programs that
last May. It will take about 12-18 months for the are having a positive impact on the environment. The treatment is free of chlorine, resins and sulphuric is consolidating the growth and expansion of the
implementation of the first phase of the RAS, which first program was designed to change our energy base acid, so does not present any kind of contamination company. Frank´s passion for this high quality noble
aims to certify the first 100 farms in Peru. This is a for both our scouring and dyeing plants from petrol to to tributaries. There are no harmful chemicals and fibre has led to its use throughout the world. And
5-year project with a target to certify approximately natural gas. This initiative was due to accessing natural the enzymes are approved by Oekotex, Blue Sign, and everyone at Michell is motivated to continue this
30% of all Alpaca breeding farms in Peru. gas, produced in Peru. By changing our energy base Reach. journey of more than 90 years’, reflects Juan Pepper.

The label can be complemented with a QR code linking to a specific landing page
where information about the traceability approach of the brand and the traceability of the specific product are displayed
MARKS TRACES AND AUTHENTICATES PRODUCTS

Haelixa has developed an innovative technology
based on DNA to mark, trace and authenticate products
from source to retail. Tanja Schlager,
Director of Marketing at Haelixa in Switzerland,
outlines this new product and how it can benefit wool users.
Tanja Schlager
W
e can develop a material or intermediate product. the product stays safely embedded
unique and specific By doing so, we make the product into the product itself during its
marker for a brand, traceable and create supply chain journey through the value chain. It
manufacturer, transparency. With our DNA can be verified in the final garment
collection or even marker the information about the or any intermediate product with a
production lot, which origin and identity (company, fiber simple test at the Haelixa or third
is then applied either to the raw type, quality, product line etc) of party lab.

The unique marker is dispersed with the fact that one needs to brand/retailer can also integrate a
in liquid such as water and then know the marker to be able to QR code, which leads to a website
applied to the wool at any point detect it (functioning as a key-look- that gives more information about
after harvest, typically either at system), makes our traceability the source and journey of the
the farm or collection point to be solution fraud-proof. This is a product.
able to prove product origin. The clear advantage to paper based
marker provides forensic proof that Our traceability solution provides
traceability solutions, where the
the product such as yarn or fabric a forensic proof of origin and
information is detached from the
comes from a specific supplier therefore facilitates access to
product itself and can therefore
and supports claims related to European and US markets by
be tampered with. We also work
quality, animal welfare or social as a complimentary solution Chinese manufacturers. As brands
and environmental standards. The to blockchain as the value of have expressed their concern
marking can easily be integrated a blockchain depends on the about products coming from the
into existing processing such as reliability of the data that is being Xinjian region, our solution can
carding or combing, but we also uploaded. So we provide the reassure customers of the Chinese
offer customized automated forensic proof that the product is region the products come from.
spraying systems. what it claims to be. By providing proof of origin we
also honour the cultural heritage
Our marker is harmless for humans Haelixa has developed a label of cashmere and yak wool coming
and the environment, but strong called “Marked & Traced
enough to withstand mechanical from China.
by Haelixa®” that allows
and chemical textile processing. manufacturers, brands and We are very proud that Haelixa
In this context it is also worth retailers to show their products is the only marker that has been
mentioning that our marker is are traceable using Haelixa’s strong approved as chemical input by
GMO-free, vegan, as well as GOTS technological basis. The label can Ecocert Greenlife in accordance
and Oekotex 100 compliant, and it be integrated into existing hang with the GOTS standard. We
does not affect product properties tags or care labels. We also close work with standards and auditing
such as quality or look and feel. the communication gap to the end companies such as Qima. Haelixa
The main benefit of Haelixa is its consumers, who increasingly want is a vetted solution-provider of
ability to turn the product itself to know who made their clothes GFA (Global Fashion Agenda), and
into the carrier of information, and under which circumstance member of Textile Exchange which
about its origin, and journey along they have been produced. enables us to drive positive change
the value chain. This, together Additional to the label itself, the in the fashion industry.
N
ew Zealand Wool Testing Authority Trade Diary is published each year. It
includes a comprehensive list of NZWTA and wool industry contacts to assist
local and international communications, a range of comparative yield tables,
trends in testing statistics for New Zealand wool and dates and rostered
volumes of national wool auctions.
It can be accessed in electronic format via a smartphone, PC, iPad or tablet.
Customers can create a shortcut link to any page of the NZWTA website directly onto
their smartphone. This provides instant access to all NZWTA news and information,
and easy access to MyWTA internet portal to access test results. To get your free copy
please contact NZWTA on [email protected]

Testing Alpaca
S
GS offers Alpaca breeders methods it provides the best sale lots and shipments for both
and exporters of Alpaca information for breeding stud sale buyer and seller. Certification is
fibres a specially designed selection purposes. also available where independent
online testing service. It sampling can be performed
SGS’s service is a simple-to-
is accessible, easy to use, through the SGS network of
use process that will provide
and results are both quick and cost offices.
accurate test results, including
effective.
micron (average diameter), SGS’s test results are recognised
In South America SGS tests greasy diameter distribution, curvature,
internationally by all processors
and scoured fibre, tests apply to medullation, staple length
of Alpaca fibre. SGS Wool Testing
Alpaca, llama, and vicuña fibres. and strength, length-diameter
Services is an ISO-17025 accredited
Alpaca breeders in North profile and yield. Ordering
is straightforward and full laboratory and is fully licensed to
and South America, Europe, provide IWTO Test Certificates on
Scandinavia and Australasia are instructions for packing of samples
and dispatch are provided, wool.
using this service in increasing
together with a simple online For SGS on-line wool testing
numbers. Fleece testing uses
credit card payment system. services - https://onlinestore.sgs.
samples clipped from individual
animals, and with a variety of Their testing service provides both com/nz and Jeremy’s team can be
specifically designed, low-cost quality and quantity certainty on contacted at [email protected]
Wool from PERU makes in-roads into EUROPE Peruvian wool is dry, with good colour, soft to touch, strong, with excellent crimp
M
ost wool top makers are of uses. ‘Introducing a new and
of finished products’, he says. in Peru to sell their wool is that takes care of all customer
very much entrenched perhaps different specification of Tirzay Company sources wool from significant. The production and documentation and transportation
in getting their wool wool into your mix could open up a large number of small farms and harvesting of wool provides a very needs.
supply from traditional new, more cost effective options brings it to a central warehouse important source of work for the
sources such as Australia, New for topmakers’, says Jose Iturriaga ‘We are still a small 17 person
where it is sorted and tested. ‘Our people in the region, many of
Zealand, and South Africa. But of Tirzay Company, a leading company, but as a small, family
company operates under IWTO which are small family units. Our
sometimes looking to enrich your exporter of Peruvian wool. ‘We guidelines and all of our wool is company has been working with owned company we can provide
regular wool supply may pay offer wool that is 23-26 microns tested by SGS New Zealand prior to some of these families for two a personal services and direct
dividends. Although well-known with a 60/65 hm length with a 60% export. Our staff is experienced in generations and we take this social communication. We always honour
for its Alpaca, Peru is not the first average yield after washing. sorting, they are a well-trained and responsibility seriously’. our contracts irrespective of
destination to spring to mind when passionate workforce. The wool is changing market conditions and
‘The highlands of Peru have been Tirzay Company is successfully
looking for an alternative wool sorted by micron and colour and prices’, comments Jose Iturriaga.
farmed for sheep for thousands of exporting its wool to topmakers
supply. It is home to 12 million into well recognised wool types ‘And we always welcome enquiries
years where the environment in in US, UK, Italy, and China.
sheep, producing more than 10 and can be selected to customer from wool buyers who are
Jose Iturriaga which they live results in wool that ‘We have recently shipped
million kilos of wool each year. specification’. interested in learning more about
is dry, good colour, soft to touch, a particular consignment of
of these breeds produces a strong Peruvian wool’.
Peruvian sheep are a cross but strong, with excellent crimp. Jose Iturriaga further comments specifically coloured wool to a
between the finest Corriedale and fibre with an excellent softness This makes it an ideal fibre for use that ‘the socio-economic customer in Europe. We have an Jose Iturriaga can be contacted at
Merino breeds. The combination that is perfect for a wide variety on its own, or blended for a variety dependence of wool growers experienced logistics department [email protected]

“Install and Forget” spinning rings
‘Spinning natural fibres successfully requires
the latest textile machinery and spinning rings
are a fundamental component to ensure quality
output in yarn production’, he says.
for long and short staple fibre, Mr Praveen Singh Poonia, Assistant V.P. of Grasim
and technical yarns. It supplies to Industries, of one of the largest and oldest
Original Equipment Manufacturer manufacturers of woollen yarns in India, is highly
(OEM) companies including focused on export to Europe and Japan. He says,
ZINSER, COGNETEX, and GAUDINO “The quality of PROSINO Rings is excellent and
and works with many leading yarn they have given us very good results in terms
manufacturers around the world. of yarn quality and consistency and overall
working efficiency. These products are backed by
‘Our Indian customers have a
excellent after sales service by PROSINO’S local
long tradition in the worsted and agent here in India. We are very satisfied with the
woollen sector especially in the overall experience of using PROSINO rings, since
north of the country (Punjab and our first experience in 2014’.
West Bengal) and our PROSINO
rings are known as a reliable Oswal Woollen Mills is a pioneer in
and long-lasting product. They manufacturing woollen hosiery in India. It has
T
appreciate our personal service been producing a wide range of products (wool/
he impact of the Italy. ‘So, when business returns and the “install and forget” polyester/acrylic) since 1954. Mr. M.A. Khan,
Covid-19 pandemic experience they have with our Deputy G.M, says, ‘We have been working with
to normal, running spinning
has been quite spinning rings’, says Pietro Prosino. PROSINO Borgosesia Rings for over 15 years.
machines at greater speed with
overwhelming for ‘Our Steel Conical Rings are custom The lifespan and quality of the rings is very good.
no breakdowns, and maintaining
the wool industry made, providing the best spinning PROSINO understand our values and we receive
quality throughout the process, excellent service’.
worldwide, including will continue to be essential for outcomes for any fibre. At a time
the textile industry in India. ‘We all leading spinners and weavers when the cost of natural fibres is Dr. Verma Ravinder, CEO of Ganga Acrowool, a
have been working with the wool going up and delivery times are market leader in wool, acrylic and nylon yarns for
around the world’.
textile sector in India since the getting shorter, uninterrupted knitwear, floor covering and weaving application
1980s and I am sure that it will PROSINO has been manufacturing production saves time and has been using PROSINO Borgosesia Rings for We chat:
come through this difficult time spinning rings since 1946 and has production cost. Our rings provide the last 15 years on various spinning frames
stronger than ever’, says Dr Pietro a yearly production of 9,000,000 extra speed and are a solution to such as Cognetex, San Marco, Suessen and
Prosino CEO of Borgosesia, Rings, rings. It specializes in spinning reduce yarn breakage and yarn Gaudino. He comments that PROSINO provides
from its head office in Biella, rings for any frames operating hairiness’. ‘good service and proactive responses to all our
technical and commercial issues’.
‘Cooperation is an important aspect to the way
we interact with our customers in India’, says Mr.
Mohammad Sikkendar, local area sales manager
for Prosino. ‘Our main goal is to ensure that
our customers’ spinning frames perform at the
highest level. PROSINO steel canonical rings
provide extra strength and speed, and reduce
yarn breakage and yarn hairiness, therefore
providing our customers with cost savings’.
Whatsapp nr: +39 335 8361291
Mr. Mohammad Sikkendar can be contacted at www.prosino.com - [email protected]
Mr. M.A. Khan Dr. Verma Ravinder Mr. Mohammad Sikkendar +91 9943054152 - [email protected]

By Ajay Pradhan
INDIA
AN EMERGING HUB
FOR WOOL PRODUCTION
I
ndia’s textile trade dates
back to the Second
Century BC. The country’s
everyday life is reflected in
every sector of the textile
industry from carpet to
fashion and mainly within
the space of natural fibre
such as wool and cotton. It is the
second largest producer of fibre in
the world.
Indian wool is almost exclusively
of broader micron and used in
manufacturing of carpets and rugs.
India has the 3rd largest sheep
population globally with 61.5
million sheep, producing 45 million
kg of raw wool. Of this domestic
wool production about 85% is
carpet grade wool, 5% apparel
grade, and 10% coarser grade wool
for blankets.
It is estimated that the wool
industry in India is valued at
USD 1,351 million. It is divided
into organized and decentralized
sectors. Indigenous production
of fine quality wool required
by industrial scale mills and the
decentralized hosiery sector is

very limited. The production of and apparel are expected to wool, organic certification is
fine apparel grade wool in India grow to $65 billion by 2025-26, the key. If Indian manufacturers
is relatively small and the country growing at a Compound Annual provide environmental certification
imports a large quantity of wool Growth Rate (CAGR) of 11%. It is a they can demand higher prices
from Australia, New Zealand, major exporter of textile products for their goods. Correct sorting
China, the Middle East and others. worldwide. and grading of wool will also
In addition to its domestic The inadequate ensure uniformity in wool quality
According to India’s ‘National Fibre
production India imported US$ and outdated available to local manufacturers.
Policy’ (MOT), it is predicted that
8.6 billion of textile and apparel pre-loom and Standardised sterilisation of
in the next decade consumption
products in 2019/20. Due to the post-loom wool must also be developed.
(production and imports) of raw
impact of the Covid pandemic it facilities in Sterilisation and organic
wool in India could double.
was expected that these imports manufacturing certification will greatly add to the
Dhiraj Bilandani, CEO of New are also an value of this wool’.
would decline by around 35% in
Zealand Wool Services, India, issue
2020-21. Vishwas Surana further comments
comments, “New Zealand
According to India’s Wool Export that “for the carpet sector, we
crossbred wool is used in the
Promotion Council total imports of need carpet-grade wool blended
carpet and upholstery industry,
raw wool stood at US$ 134 million with different materials to give
rather than apparel. Import of New
from April 2020 to March 2021, unique textures, which can be used
Zealand wool into India has largely
down from US$ 222.8 million in with different weaving techniques.
increased post Covid because
the previous year. However, one thing is clear; wool
of the favorable prices of New
will always be in demand not only
Zealand wool. It is the main driving US and EU are key export from the eco-friendly aspect but
force which has made most buyers destinations for Indian wool and also due to its versatile, biomedical
shift their purchases of other origin wool-blended products. Indian manufacturing is mainly located and felts, there is huge potential an issue. Manufacturers need to applications”.
wools to New Zealand wools.” exporters are geographically in the states of Punjab, Haryana, in exports. In fact, a large amount modernize their machinery to
The Indian textile and apparel diversifying their exports to other Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh., of woolen handicrafts are already produce quality finished products Carpet sector in India
sector contributes 5% to India’s regions such as the Middle East, Maharashtra and Gujarat. Around being exported. The development to compete on the world stage. The carpet sector in India
GDP, 7% of industry output in Latin America, South East Asia, and 40% of woollen manufacturers are of new products using wool for Such modernization will increase flourished from the 16th century
value terms, and generates 12% East Asia to increase their footprint located in Punjab, 27% in Haryana, completely new applications the use of indigenous wool and and today India has taken this
to the country’s export earnings. globally. 10% in Rajasthan, while the can provide new growth to wool make products more appealing to ancient tradition of carpet weaving
It is the second-largest employer India is the 7th largest producer remaining states account for 23% exports”. international markets. This will also to global markets, and in volume
in the country, providing direct of raw wool in the world of manufacturers. achieve better wool prices for local terms it is the largest producer
India is known to export a range
employment to 45 million people accounting for 1.8 % of world wool Woollen yarn, fabrics, and finished wool growers. and exporter of hand knotted
of woolen products including tops,
and 60 million people in allied production, representing about 4.2 products exported from April 2020 yarn, fabrics, ready-made garments The machinery required for carpet in the world. 90% of the
industries. A manpower extensive % of the total sheep population to January 2021 was US$ 88.25 and carpets. Carpet takes the processing raw wool fiber to carpets manufactured in India are
industry, India’s exports of textiles worldwide. India’s woollen textile million, in January 2021 it was US$ majority share of total exports, fabrics and knitting is mostly exported to around 200 countries.
10.7 million. although it has declined in the last imported from European countries Main markets are USA, Germany,
five years. as well as from the USA and UK, UAE, Italy, Australia, Turkey,
Vishwas Surana, Director of Wool
NZ Wools imported into India Japan. However, given the scale France, Canada, Belgium, Brazil,
India comments, “For carpets, the India’s strength is the availability
of the textile industry in India the Japan, Netherland, Saudi Arab and
Financial Year (July – June) Value ($000) Volume (Tonnes) momentum at present is very good of a large work force, and deep
introduction of new machinery is Sweden.
even taking Covid into account. rooted knowledge about wool and
2018-19 (12 month) $ 31,012 7,241 This sector actually employs a huge still inadequate to make sufficient Indian carpets are recognized
artistry and creativity. However,
number of people from rural India export quality products. worldwide for colours and quality.
it lacks advanced processing
2019-20 (12 month) $ 36,884 8,952 and has been an aggressive income facilities. The inadequate and In relation to attracting more The wool produced in North West
2020-21 (10 month) $ 37,939 13,728 generator during Covid. For other outdated pre-loom and post-loom international buyers Vishwas India is most suitable for carpets.
wool products, such as handicrafts facilities in manufacturing are also Surana, says, “For raw and scoured The characteristic of this wool

is better pile coverage and it is
durable and resilient.
This sector is highly labor
intensive, providing employment
to more than 2 million weavers
and artisans. It is largely non-
industrialised and largely driven by The wool
small family based enterprises. It is needed for
a major employer of women, is of handicrafts
great economic value for millions, comes mostly
and is a major earner of foreign from sheep,
exchange. Pashmina
goats, and
If this sector of the industry will Angora rabbits
fully modernise to industrial that breed in
size production it can offer abundance in
great opportunities and growth this favorable
for the domestic retail market region
and has great export potential.
The opportunity to sell using
online platforms enables Indian
manufacturers to reach out to
the farthest corner of the world
with its finished products and
this sector is already growing
exponentially.
Shawls & quilts vibrant quilts. Jaipur is a hub for products were made using Shoes sector consumer. We wanted to make
Handicraft sector Cashmere wool is obtained from quilts, maintaining Rajasthan’s indigenous wool. However, with Casual footwear is the largest people aware of the benefits
The major advantage of the the Capra Hircus Goat which is dominance in the wool production lifestyle shifts and more people product segment in the Indian of this wool and that’s how we
woolen handicraft sector is its found in the deeper regions of space. Manufacturers are now enjoying woolen khadi products, footwear market, which pioneered the Neeman Merino
enormous employment potential, the Himalayas. Pashmina is made adding organic certification to indigenous wool has been replaced contributes approximately 67% wool shoe in India. We have taken
despite low capital investment. from the thinner inner coat that is these products. This transparency with Australian Merino wool. of the total footwear retail it upon ourselves to start the
The geography of the hilly districts grown on the goat. The Changpa further makes it appealing to market. Approximately 56% of the conversation around Merino wool
Top quality imported Merino
tribe of this region is the traditional international markets. market is represented by non- and our products are testament
in India, the high altitude and cold wool is used with Amber Charkha,
producer of Pashmina wool leather shoes. As consumers shift to our work. Over 96% of our
climate of this region, combined a more modern version of the
used in Pashmina handcrafted Woolen khadi their focus to more natural and customers have rated our shoes
with the mountainous terrain spinning wheel, to make woolen
shawls. Local knowledge in Khadi is hand-made cloth from renewable fibre, wool is an obvious as the most comfortable, which
supports the growth of this sector. khadi apparel today. The Merino
weaving techniques developed India and Bangladesh. It is most choice to replace synthetic fibre in is inspirational for us,” says Taran
The wool needed for handicrafts wool from Jammu and Kashmir
using traditional looms has made commonly woven from cotton, footwear. Chhabra, Founder, Neeman’s
comes mostly from sheep, was initially used for handloom
Pashmina a big export earner. but can also be made from silk Shoes.
Pashmina goats, and Angora weaving, but with time the fabric “Merino wool is a wonder product
Wool is a highly durable and and wool. The wool is spun into made using a blend of Indian and and when we entered the market Further highlighting the challenges
rabbits that breed in abundance
breathable fiber, it provides instant yarn on a hand-cranked spinning Australian Merino wool has been just a few years ago only a few Taran added, “Consumers normally
in this favorable region. Most of
warmth compared to synthetic wheel called a “Charkha” before shown to have better longevity and key players in India were retailing associate wool with winter and
these wool types are used for felt
materials, making it an ideal fibre being woven on a handloom. quality. This market for wool and Merino wool jackets. However, we take responsibility to educate
sheets and then used in handicraft
products for household articles. for quilts and blankets. India is It is another economy driver for its blends continues to increase from the beginning our ethos and inform the consumer about
This industry is known for its famous for its block printing to India and is a big employment and India has the capability to take was to make Merino wool and its Merino wool and its all-season
innovative and imaginative designs. create brightly coloured and generator. Initially, woolen khadi advantage of this growth. positive attributes known to the benefits. We are very hopeful that

SGS wool testing
wool will have a very interesting
future and Merino will certainly
Technical Manager, The Woolmark
Company – India.
slow compared to China because
of a lack of systematic foreign
and verification in India
S
lead the way and find huge use in investment. It is high time that GS Wool Testing Services has been
varied sectors of fashion”. Moving beyond Covid-19 the world sees India’s potential independently measuring greasy wool,
Aloke Roy, VP Sales & Marketing and realises its craftmanship scoured wool, and wooltops for over 50
The Woolmark Company in India for Wool at Grasim Industries and abilities, to encourage years. “Our local offices in India make the
The presence of the Woolmark (Jaya Shree Industries) remarks manufacturing in India. In the process accessible, easy and straightforward.
Company in India is more than that “consumer trend is moving global wool supply chain India Our services are cost-competitive and
5 decades long, demonstrating in favour of wool as it is natural, already has its place, as China results are recognised by the textile industry
both the rich textile heritage sustainable and is the best experiences increasing production worldwide’, says Jeremy Wear, business
of India and the strong bond suited fibre for human skin. costs and labour shortages. India manager of SGS Wool Testing Services in New
between Australia and India. The India is well positioned to take has an excellent chance to take Zealand.
woolgrowers of Australia and the advantage of changing consumer advantage of this opportunity by SGS Wool Testing Services is an ISO-17025
textile industry in India have grown expectations. India’s traditional become a leading supplier of yarn. accredited laboratory and is fully licensed to
together. India is among the top knowledge can easily blend with It can achieve this by leveraging provide IWTO Test Certificates. Independent
countries to have taken on the innovation to quickly produce its existing capacity for back-end sampling is available globally via an extensive
Woolmark License program. new apparel or craft. Due to the processing, and gradually moving SGS network of offices. In India it has offices
AWI not only works along the pandemic, demand for formal forward in the value chain. In trend of conducting business via virtual meetings is less and laboratories in the main wool producing
entire supply chain of wool in wear, particularly worsted suiting, addition to investment from than ideal for buyers unable to feel the product.” centres such as Maharashtra, Punjab, Gujarat,
India but also engages with the is significantly reduced. Smart outside of India, and with the Tamil Nadu Haryana, Rajasthan, and Uttar
casual, athleisure, and lounge As a step towards a cleaner environment and more Pradesh.
end consumers to raise awareness Indian government, and Free Trade
wear has gained in popularity. sustainable production, many Indian manufacturers are
of Merino wool. India’s strength agreements (FTA) to targeted To complement this widespread service in
Wool is perfectly suited to take a looking to introduce environmental practices. Some
also lies in the strong talent that markets, this should assist in India, SGS operates an online testing service.
prominent place in this evolving are already on this path with reductions in energy
is emerging in fashion design and further enhancing wool industry ‘Our newly introduced online wool testing
work from home attire, with usage, use of clean energy, and reduced water usage in service makes it even easier and cheaper for
textile technology. India has had infrastructure, and incentives for
three winners of the International machine-washable and easy-care processing or finishing. exporters of wool and wool products. This
new investment,” Aloke Roy further
Woolmark Prize including globally attributes. added. Today quality finishes in woolen products is the main service is now fully operational and provides
acclaimed designer Rahul Mishra. “Wool is also valued in home reason why India lags behind other countries. As the an easy to use step by step process for both
Vishwas Surana commented buyers and sellers of wool and other animal
Over the last decade there has textiles for its properties and industry modernises there should be an increase in use
been strong demand generated that, despite Covid disruptions, fibres’, says Jeremy Wear.
attributes. India has good skills in of indigenous wool and India’s woolen products should
for wool fiber among millennial “the carpet industry has been
backend processing but needs a become more competitive internationally. It will also Wool testing indicates the wool’s fitness for
Indian consumers who seek lucky that it is located in rural
little more push in finishing, design assist in procuring better price for wool growers and purpose and ensures the commercial yields are
quality product. The Woolmark’s areas where the impact has been
and innovation sectors”. will make quality raw material available to the Khadi correct. It also provides valuable information
partnership with brands and much less. The weaving sector
and handloom sector. to the processor that aids processing of fibre
designs hase contributed to this Shivani Thakur, owner of Bhuttico, has been negatively affected
more efficiently. This online service starts as
growth. adds, “Today consumers are by as much as 20% due to the The Indian textile industry has many great areas of
soon as the request for sampling is made by
looking to spend with discretion. migration of weavers back to opportunity including home textiles, medical textiles,
“Our local office works to develop the customer. A secure, verifiable electronic
They are spending their money on their home provinces, as well as and protective textiles. These industries are already
new product as per market trend certificate will be generated on completion
sustainable goods and investing in factory closures and a reduction in showing growth. The government in India, through of the test and sent to the client by direct
with advanced technology and shipping services. In cooperation its Central Wool Development Board is implementing
ethical practices. For them wool is email. ‘We have special arrangements with
passing on industry know-how.
one of the most practical, natural, with local administrations all large various schemes to improve quantity and quality of major courier groups, and sending samples
Education of textile students, the
100% ethical alternatives. India’s factories are vaccinating their staff. local wools. for testing is quick and hassle free’, comments
fashion community, and trade are
sustainable approach is surely a The biggest impact on exports has Jeremy Wear.
areas where we contribute. The It also runs training programs to improve pasture, farms
hopeful arena of growth for the been the shortage of container
local trade actively seeks our vast and infrastructure. The government is also encouraging For SGS on-line wool testing services - https://
industry.” space.
network support in connecting private companies to invest in research, new product onlinestore.sgs.com/nz and Jeremy’s team can
them to the global wool supply “Covid or no Covid, India’s growth Travelling restrictions have also development, and testing centers for all stages of wool be contacted at [email protected]
chain”, says Jyotiranjan Parida, within the woollen sector has been had a negative impact and the new textile production.

For Results you can Trust
Nanjing Wool Market - business as usual
A
lthough still under China will continue to be a major Group. It is involved in arbitration
pressure, the Chinese hub for wool processing and a and trade dispute settlements and
textile industry has major domestic consumer market offers financial services including
shown exceptional for wool products, says Jiang Chen Bills of Exchange and Letters of
resilience and has general manager at Nanjing Wool Credit.
performed strongly in 2021. As the Market (NWM). ‘And NWM will It works closely with AWI, AWEX,
impact of Covid-19 is still being felt continue to be the first port of and AWTA in training wool classers,
in most countries around the world call for advice and assistance for wool shearers, and providing
China has been an outstanding foreign companies when doing educational resources to local wool
shining light. business with the wool industry in growers, and provides training to
This is evident when looking at China.‘ the early wool processing industry
wool sales in Australia during NWM membership includes in China.
2020/21 season. The only buyers woolgrower cooperatives, traders, ‘Travel restrictions have made it
were companies in China. The primary processors, and spinners difficult for many from outside
demand from the Chinese of wool, and allied fibres all China to attend the 2021
domestic market has underpinned over China. It also welcomes conference in Boao Hainan
wool buying and maintained wool
membership from outside China. province in 2021. But we look
prices at reasonably high levels.
NWM also chairs the Joint China forward to welcoming everyone
Going into the 2021/22 season,
Australia Wool Working Group, back in 2022’, says Jiang Chen.
due to continued strong demand
from this domestic market, China the Joint New Zealand China Wool Nanjing Wool Market
continues to be dominant at most Working Group and the Joint can be contacted at
wool auctions around the world. South Africa China Wool Working [email protected]
Madame Yang (middle row centre) and Jiang Chen (middle row second from right) with Nanjing Wool Market team

STRONG DOMESTIC MARKET
UNDERPINS CHINA’S WOOL
TEXTILE INDUSTRY
D
emand for wool
products has seen a
good recovery in 2021,
with the recovery of
the Chinese domestic Zhang Shuqin, Deputy
Secretary General, China
market and its Wool Textile Association
control of COVID-19.
However, there are uncertainties
challenging the industry and
companies because of new market
requirements and trends.
During the first half of 2021 China’s
wool manufacturing sector has
improved but is still at a lower level
compared to 2019. Year to date
(YTD) wool yarn production was 68
thousand tons, 21% higher year on
year; and YTD production of wool
fabrics was 110 million meters, 6% “
lower year on year in May 2021. End consumers in China
Although the wool manufacturing are the key to the further The stock of wool manufactured from January to May, while sales at onsite stores increased and manufactured goods was 1
has shown growth or improvement development of the Chinese products totaled 16.8 billion RMB manufactured textile product by 39.1%, while online sales of billion USD in the first 5 months,
in growth rate, it is currently in a from January to May, 8% lower prices grew only by 0.1%. This apparel products grew by 28.2% in 9.8% higher; its export weights was
wool textile industry. A year on year. The growth of wool the first five months. It is a certain 49 thousand tones in total, 22%
comparatively lower level to the is another difficulty for textile
first half of 2019 before COVID-19. slower recovery of global fiber stock is higher than the companies. and inevitable trend that online even higher. But the growth rates
wool consumption has growth of product stock, which sales account for more in general are obviously lower than the 50%
The total profit of wool processing
made it critical for the brings more financial risks to the Retail market trend consumption, reaching 22.6% of and 70% growth rates of cashmere
and manufacturing companies
Chinese wool textile companies. The Chinese consumer market sales. Chinese wool manufacturing processed and manufactured
(annual turnover above 20 mil
resumed rapidly in both online companies are actively getting goods.
RMB) was negative in the first industry to promote The price growth of manufactured
and onsite sales. The growth rate involved in the development of
5 months of 2021. The average domestic consumption. products has not fully covered The US, EU and Japan are 3 main
of Chinese apparel consumption online and live-streaming sales by
profit rate was -0.25%, even lower the raw material cost growth. In wool consuming market and main
compared to 2020. It is mostly ” 2021 the trend for the entire raw has maintained a relatively high
level this year. According to
providing fast supply and delivery.
exporting markets for Chinese
wool products. The US market is
due to the sharp decline of profits material market is still climbing. Cashmere exports performed
in wool top making and spinning Chinese textile raw material the Chinese National Bureau of better than wool exports. The the strongest with -7% negative
industry. purchasing prices grew by 1.4% Statistics, apparel and footwear export value of wool processed growth in the first 4 months,

totaling 660 million USD in import Wool market trend and prospect the manufacturing construction
value for wool products. Chinese The average weaving mill size and change. Knitting has become more
imported wool products valued at capacity is stable and smaller due important than woven goods.
110 million USD, accounting for to the weaker demand for weaving
End consumers in China are the
only 17% of the total import value. fabrics in past years. The average
key to the further development of
output size of weaving mills has
The EU’s import of wool products the Chinese wool textile industry.
declined. In 2020, the average
showed a sharper decline in the A slower recovery of global wool
worsted fabric output per mill
Q1 with a -24% negative growth, consumption has made it critical
declined by 30%, and the woolen
and its total import valued 740 for the Chinese wool textile
fabric output per mill decline by
billion USD. Chinese imported industry to promote domestic
10%. It is an inevitable trend that
wool products accounted for consumption. In the first 5 months
the average capacity of weaving
33%, a resumption of market mills will not increase or gets of the year the trade deficit of
share compared to 2020 Q1. It smaller. wool products reached 550 million
indicates Chinese wool products USD, about 36% of total export
are comparatively stable in the EU Manufacturing construction has value. It is believed the trade
market. changed. Wool woven garments deficit, as well as the lower export
used to be the first exporting items demand, still has years to run.
From January to May 2021, Japan among the export categories. At the same time, online sales,
imported 270 billion USD of wool In the past the value of woven especially the live-streaming sales
products, 25% lower year on year. garments accounted for about 40% of apparel goods shows strong
Chinese imported wool products of the total export value. Now the growth, and with the recovery
accounted for 38%, a smaller export market share has changed, of store shopping, and the quick
market share than in 2020, while knitting garments have become development of local brands,
Japanese demand for EU products the top export, and the woven more and more wool textile
show a good recovery with 14% garment export share has shrunk companies turn their attention
growth rate. to only about 20%, reflecting
to the domestic market. Even the
export-oriented companies have
gradually transferred their efforts
to developing domestic market.
There will be further industry
downsizing in the future. The
number of wool textile mills is
decreasing yearly, from 1200 mills
in 2015 to 900 in 2020. In the
first 5 months, -0.9% profit rate
declined dramatically as a high
number of manufacturing firms
became unprofitable. There are
a large number of companies
suffering from long-term losses
and many have already withdrawn
from the industry in past years.
Companies surviving COVID-19 will
have a better chance to reallocate
industry resources.

RWS wool purchase to meet the growing demand for Feedback from our customers in recent weeks also
this accreditation by domestic and foreign customers. reflects this belief. So we are cautious and optimistic
Q&A
about the performance of wool in 2022-23.
There is a view circulating within the wool industry
that after covid the consumer will focus on natural Are you experiencing any changes in order
fibres and the wellbeing factor that they offer. Do specifications for the wool tops from your
YANG Shao Wei of RED SUN you see this taking hold with consumers in China as customers, domestically in China, and customers
with Victor Chesky well? from outside China? Has there been a change
R
Indeed, with the growth of China’s middle class in in micron requirements, blends etc to indicate a
recent years, the purchasing power has increased different trend into the future?
ed Sun is one of the largest
suppliers of tops to the domestic significantly, and consumers in China are more We see that as the Chinese middle class continues
interested in natural, green and environmentally to grow the demand for better quality products and
market in China – this domestic
friendly fibers, and the advantages of wool are more sustainable production practices will also grow.
market has been performing
gradually being recognized by domestic consumers. So demand for finer wool, such as 17.5mic and finer,
exceptionally well post-covid. I
will continue to be strong. We see that the European
spoke with Mr Yang (Captain), Red Sun is one of the largest wool buyers in the market is still focusing on traditional types, without
who strongly believes that the traditional world, buying wool from all major wool growing great changes and we do not believe that this will
wool industry needs to retain a very strong countries, including Australia. Have you experienced change in the short-term.
connection to wool growers, with an emphasis difficulties in sourcing the right wools, and has covid
on animal welfare, good environmental affected the wool supply to your business? Environmental accreditation and tracing has been an
management, and to embrace the future with Covid has not had a significant impact on our important topic in the wool industry for a number of
new projects such as online wool auctions and purchases, except for the serious delay in shipment, years. Has this issue become important in China?
new technology. I asked him to tell me how he which lengthens the overall turn around time to In recent years, the demand by domestic and foreign
views the strength of the wool industry in China delivery. We have been purchasing Australian wool markets for mulesed free and RWS wool has been
and the recovery of markets in Europe and for more than 20 years, and the import volume has growing. We can see this significant change from our
elsewhere. In the past several years Red Sun has consistently been rising every year. We have always entrusted sales orders. At present, Red Sun has been increasing
invested in machinery and new processes. Could you Australian exporters with fixed indent buying for us in the purchase volume of mulesed free and RWS wool.
In the past we exported 50% of our production. Due to please expand on what product range Red Sun is Australia. Recently we have learned that this trust has
the impact of covid our exports now account for only If this demand will continue to grow this may create
offering? been misplaced and unfortunately we have learned
about 30%, and the rest is consumed by the domestic short supply particularly in peak season. We think
We have increased investment in machinery and new some hard lessons and paid a very high price. We are this trend will continue, because more consumers
market in China. This clearly shows that after the covid at present in dispute with an Australian company that
shutdown there was reduced production of tops last techniques in the past few years, especially in our new are concerned about animal welfare and sustainable
factory in the bonded zone. This includes new carding we believe has been dishonest and not transparent in
year, stocks at top mills, and even downstream at development.
their dealings with us. We will be pursuing this issue in
spinning mills has dropped to a historical low. and combing machines, so that we have the ability
Australia through trade associations and the Chamber Do you have any future plans to invest in new
to provide customers with higher quality and more
Notwithstanding the drop in export demand we are of Commerce to recoup our losses, and to ensure that machinery, or any new initiatives going into
consistent products. At the same time, we have also
now operating at 100% capacity and this shows how honesty and transparency are maintained from wool 2022/23?
increased investment and R&D in artificial intelligence
strong the domestic market is in China. We are fully suppliers, not just in Australia but around the world.
(AI) detection of top indicators, efficient sewage
booked until end of August. In the past year, we have upgraded our combing
treatment, sludge reduction and organic fertilizer The price for merino wool in Australia has held up machines and improved the production capacity of
How do you see demand for wool tops in markets reuse. during covid and this seems to continue to hold short tops. Next, we will invest 8 million US dollars to
beyond China, including Europe, USA, and others in We can confidently say that we have always been at firm. How do you see wool prices performing going build an intelligent stereoscopic warehouse, which will
the near future? the forefront of R&D. Our long term view has always forward into 2022/23? mainly solve the problems of automatic identification,
Global demand will depend on control of covid and been “preparing for the future” and the pandemic The price of wool always fluctuates with demand. trans-shipment and storage of greasy wool. This is also
the economic recovery of Europe and the United has not changed this concept. Over the years our top As the demand for wool is overheated at present, an important part of our Intelligent Factory project,
States. At the moment we see demand from outside production has focused on fine and super fine Merino the price of wool is increasing greatly. If such trends which is to build a high standard automatic wool
China as weak, but we do see slow improvements. types and we have also increased the proportion of continue, it may negatively affect the demand. production factory.

used in wool scouring, carbonizing, environmentally safe, and does not blended wool, and is also suitable
carding, topmaking, worsted contain APEO, formaldehyde, or for synthetics, silk, and cashmere.
spinning, woollen spinning, semi- phosphoric acid.
The company also supplies
worsted spinning, dyeing and ‘It is effective in emulsification carding oil, increasing lubrication,
finishing, shrink-proof mercerizing while degreasing and washing, it and protecting the wool fibre.
as well as the Basolan treatment is non-alkaline. It does not break This improves spinnability, and
processing, and these products down the protein fibre in the wool, increases yield. It’s DH-1 for
are in line with EU environmental or corrode machinery. It is suitable combing and DH-C for wool
standards. for all kinds of wool scouring blending, combing, topmaking, and
Wool washing methods are and is particularly good in colder spinning and its DH-C10 /DH-S is
important to the scouring process. climates’, comments Mr Zhu. used in worsted and semi-worsted
The Dalis Eco-Wool X100 and Wool Detergent X100 and X100-Y spinning.
X100-Y series of detergents series is especially suitable for high Dalis dyeing and finishing
perform well and are fully bio- quality Australian wool scouring detergent series include Soaping
degradable and eco-friendly for all because of its degreasing ability, agent DX-5, Detergent DX-7,
stages of scouring, topmaking and and the outstanding after-effect Degreaser DX-1, Softening agent
yarn production. on the appearance and feel of the M50,Hydrophilic silicone oil YQ-
wool. 1,Slipping agent M20 Keto acid
Wool Detergent X100 and X100-Y
uses high grade plant-based It is particularly suited for slightly (substitute glacial acetic acid).
ingredients. In the woollen industry coarse wool, more than 17.5-18 After treatment fiber is fluffy, feels
The benefits of eco certified it is used as a raw wool detergent, microns. It has a good degreasing good to the touch, with good
wool carbonization auxiliary, and a and washing effect, resulting in whiteness and luster.
wool dyeing detergent. After use a wool that is white, fluffy, and ‘We continue to supply our
WOOL DETERGENTS
residual wool grease is stabilized, elastic with good fluidity at low international customers with
greyness is reduced, the natural temperature. green eco-chemical wool textile
whiteness is shown, and the fibre Dalis anti-static agents inhibit auxiliaries and we welcome all
I
unknots and becomes softer. and eliminate static electricity in enquiries’. Please contact Jacky
t is usually Europe that leading supplier of wool textile certified products for wool There is greater grease recovery, combing, topmaking, spinning, at email: [email protected]
springs to mind when auxiliaries in China can offer such processors, topmakers, and yarn and a higher production rate. It is dyeing and finishing of wool or www.dalismt.com
we consider stringent a selection of environmentally manufacturers. We have been
environmental compliance supplying our customers in Europe,
for chemicals used in textile
processing and dyeing.
the Middle East, Uruguay, New
Zealand, and the USA for many
Connecting buyers and sellers
These are a benchmark to years. Since 1986
ensure manufacturers maintain
Dalis in Zhejiang has Intertek wool2yarn
Speciality Fibres
wool2yarn
Speciality Fibres
中国羊毛与纱线
reliable quality assurance systems Global China
Ecological Environmental
for ecological products. ‘Today
Protection Certification. This
environmental protection laws
certification provides due diligence
in China are extremely stringent
assurance and provides customers
and in some instances these
trust to manufacturers and
laws exceed requirements in the
retailers. BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2020-2021
2020-2021年羊毛购买商指南
European Union’, says Zhu Jiankun, 2019 2020 2021

director at Dalis (Zhejiang Yongjin Dalis products include degreasing
Biotechnology Co Ltd/ Jiaxing detergents, penetrating agents, INTERNATIONAL TRADE PUBLICATIONS
PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia • Tel: 61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: 61 3 9533 0727 • Email: [email protected]
Mount Chemical Co., Ltd ). ‘So it softening agents, and agents for
www.wool2yarnglobal.com www.wool2yarnchina.com
is not surprising that Dalis, as a Zhu Jiankun chemical fibers, which are mainly

OFDA – more than 30 years
The new OFDA2000 is 1/3 the size
of the original portable and bench
top models.
of fibre measurement Mark Brims adds, ‘on-farm testing

with OFDA 2000 will also help
T
wool growers improve the quality
of their animal stock, a vital step
he value of wool is sending samples to testing house shearing sheds or in a vehicle to better wool growing outcomes.
directly linked to in Australia or New Zealand. in Mongolia or on farm in the Diameter can vary up to 50% along
its specification. To This takes time and extra cost. Peruvian Andes. ‘Some speciality a staple and in extreme cases an
accurately measure According to Mark Brims, of or rare fibres such as Cashmere animal can be producing 20um
wool parameters the OFDA technology and CEO of BSC and Vicuña are so expensive fibre at one time of the year, and
wool must be tested. Electronics that manufactures that you cannot afford to make a 30um at another time, usually due
So it is not surprising that in OFDA, ‘the solution to this problem mistake. To have testing equipment to the diet.
South America, a number of wool is the OFDA 2000 testing machine. that is accurate and IWTO
growers are pooling their resources The portability of the OFDA 2000 recognised can save thousands of ‘A government initiative in Peru has
and setting up wool cooperatives, instrument enables its use in even dollars’, Mark Brims comments. encouraged alpaca growers to use
to enable the wool to be brought the most challenging terrain and OFDA measuring instruments to
The newest OFDA 2000 model better sort alpaca fibre. Mongolian
from separate small farms to farming conditions. It provides
is smaller and more portable wool and cashmere growers are
a central point where it can be better opportunities to improve
than the original model and will also using OFDA instruments in
properly sorted and tested. the quality of animal stock, and is
automatically measure up to their everyday farming practices
Testing wool in remote areas a vital step to better product and
10000 fibres in 30 seconds with for better production outcomes’,
has always been an issue for income for farmers’.
absolute accuracy, and is the only he says. ‘It is 31 years since the
wool growers. Sometimes the OFDA 2000 portable can be used testing instrument that measures first OFDA100 image analyser for
testing can only be done by in any outback situation including fibre diameter along the staple. measuring wool diameter was sold.
Since that time OFDA has provided
the most widely used methods of
diameter measurement for wool,
cashmere, and alpaca with over
300 machines in use worldwide
today’.
OFDA4000
Central to the entire wool to
garment production chain is the ‘The OFDA4000 measures the ‘If you are one of the many users of
need to analyze and measure main wool top parameters of our machines and the software or
diameter, length, hauteur and diameter, length and hauteur in technology needs to be updated,
barbe of fibres in tops. a single measurement. It is the or maintenance is required please
For textile mills, research institutes only instrument that measures contact us’.
and arbitrators, the OFDA 4000 length and short fibre content
opens a world of possibilities as directly’, says Mark Brims. ‘Testing If you would like to know more
the only instrument to directly is recognised by test method about OFDA, all OFDA products
measure diameter, length, hauteur IWTO-62. It is an absolute must to can be viewed at www.ofda.com
and barbe of fibres in one single have for any commercial company or contact Mark Brims by email at
Mark Brims – the new OFDA2000 is now smaller and more portable, and still provides the same excellent performance operation – in real time. working with natural fibres’. [email protected]

OFDA: Diameter and Length Measurement Instruments
NEW: OFDA2000 IS NOW SMALLER AND MORE PORTABLE
1/3 the volume of the original portable and benchtop models, same great performance
Superwash wool
now even more super
AWI has worked with an industry partner to commercialise a new shrink
proofing technology for machine washable wool garments,
which is less complex and costly than traditional shrink proofing
processes while also reducing water, chemical and energy consumption.
Make Advantages over and its impact on the environment is

very small.
Advertising
traditional superwash treatment
• Less water • Less chemicals • Less energy
• More straight forward • More accessible Furthermore, it is a much less
complex and more accessible process
than the traditional process. It is
suitable for use on an industrial scale.
How does the new treatment work?

Targeted Without any treatment, the small
scales on the surface of wool fibres
Efficient can interlock when exposed to
moisture and agitation leading to
Personal AWI has worked with Jeanologia to develop
felting. A washing machine is the
perfect environment to create this
OFDA4000 for diameter and length measurement of wool tops
• The major wool fibre characteristics in one measurement, with
Meaningful and commercialise a groundbreaking
new technique for making wool garments
felting effect leading to shrinkage
in garments. The new WoolUp
greatly reduced operator involvement
• Length and short fibre content by length is measured
Relevant
machine washable.
treatment is a relatively simple automatically, as well as hauteur (cross section biased length)
T
dry process that uses an ozone • Diameter vs. length is provided
Better. he development nearly

50 years ago of machine
treatment, to modify the surface of
the wool fibres. It removes the tips
• International recognition by test method IWTO-62
• Cost, size and weight of the system is lower than the 3
washable wool, sometimes instruments (Fibroliner, Almeter, OFDA100 or Laserscan) that it
of the scales and smooths the fibres
known as superwash wool, replaces
which allows them to slide against
wool2yarn
Speciality Fibres
• Software is included to allow viewing, blending and exporting
Global
revolutionised the wool industry and each other without interlocking, results to spreadsheet: no need to buy extra software to
it has been extensively adopted. It thereby preventing felting and combine results from different instruments
means that consumers are able to shrinking. • Ability to measure fibre diameter from samples in web form
easily launder a wide range of wool using snippet mode, compatible with OFDA100/ OFDA2000
garments in their domestic washing While the WoolUp process can be
machine without fear of the product used for the treatment of worsted
shrinking, losing its shape or felting. and woollen apparel (100% wool
OFDA2000 Benchtop and Portable for measurement of
022
21-2
and wool blend), the technology

L 20
WOO
E TO
GUID
RS
w diameter of greasy and clean wool

BUYE
Chino
ol2y Spe However, as part of AWI’s is a breakthrough particularly for
arn
中国
a ciali
ty Fi
• More than twice as fast as the OFDA2000 analog version

毛与
羊 bres
commitment to minimise wool’s companies wishing to enter the

纱线
environmental footprint along the lambswool knitwear market, in • Five times faster than OFDA100 (fibres per minute)
supply chain, AWI has recently which machine washable claims have • Allows replacement of the PC without the need for
completed a project with Spanish- previously been difficult to achieve recalibration
based machine manufacturer due to the nature of the finishing • Remote operation via the internet for servicing
Jeanologia to commercialise a new, required and its complexity. • Runs on a standard Windows PC to allow easy networking,
more eco-friendly process to make printing and export of data to spreadsheet formats
wool garments machine washable. With the WoolUp process having
2021-202
2年羊毛购
买商指南
been successfully validated through • International recognition by IWTO Test Method 47
The eco-advantages of the process, testing and evaluation, AWI’s focus
known as WoolUp, is that it uses will now be to encourage garment
www.wool2yarnglobal.com
significantly less chemicals, water and manufacturers across the world to
energy than the traditional method adopt the technology.
BSC
Electronics
Contact your agent or visit www.ofda.com
BSC ELECTRONICS PTY LTD

13 Willcock Street Ardross, Western Australia 6153 • Phone + 61 8 9316 9499 • [email protected]
Five years may sound like a long it is not surprising that the UK these changes was to the EHC
time ago but politicians rarely national flock has shrunk over the for the export of scoured wool to
seem to be in a rush! Negotiations last three years. Based on Defra’s China. The trade was given just a
have been drawn out and for agricultural census the number of few days’ notice that the EHC was
the large part have been a waste breeding ewes in the UK has fallen no longer going to be valid. No
of time and money. Certainly, by 8% over the last three years. replacement was in place and no
businesses wouldn’t survive if they This in turn has had a significant system had been established to
had acted like the politicians have. impact on wool production in the certify the UK scouring plants. In
They have left us in no small part UK. British Wool’s handling cost addition the new EHC did not allow
to sort things out for ourselves and per kg has increased as a result for UK grown wool to be blended
make the best of what they have which in turn led to British Wool with wool from other origins. This
handed us. closing four of its 12 grading change was very damaging for the
depots in 2020. The volume of UK wool processing industry and
One of the main difficulties
wool available to the scouring British Wool worked with the trade
in reaching any conclusions
plants has also been diminished, if to lobby government for change.
regarding the effects of Brexit is this trend continues the viability of A short extension was granted and
the fact that at the same time the wool processing in the UK will be a process established for scouring
world has been dealing with the significantly undermined. plants to be approved but the
Covid pandemic. Precisely and lack of communication from the
definitively dissecting the results of “Post Brexit a number of other
issues have also emerged. APHA on this change was still very
one from the other is impossible. damaging for an industry that had
Northern Irish Sheep Farmers
At the raw wool end of the are facing significant challenges significant export orders to fulfil.
industry Andrew Hogley, CEO in moving stock between Great “On all of these issues
of British Wool, had this to Britain and Northern Ireland. This communication from government
say, “Whilst the trade in wool impacts particularly on the has been minimal. Over the two
between UK and Europe has not movement of breeding stock into years up to Brexit British Wool
BREXIT:
been directly impacted Brexit Northern Ireland from Scotland, attended a number of meetings
has still had a significant impact a trade which is essential to with the Brexit livestock group
upon British Wool, its suppliers, maintaining good flock genetics. but Defra officials were generally
and its customers. This has been unable to give the visibility
damaging for both British Wool “Exports of greasy wool to
Europe face additional customs and certainty that the industry
and the wider UK wool trade.” required.”
By Martin Curtis
A Marriage of Convenience or A Bitter Divorce Andrew continues, “The first key
issue has been the uncertainty for
checks. Increased customs
checks result in additional cost This has made life very difficult for
and administration. To minimise sheep farmers and early stage wool
W
sheep farmers created by Brexit their costs customers are now processors.
hen asked when the result of the Brexit vote may give us fresh opportunities to and the resultant drop in UK requesting that we load their wool
On the other hand, Jeremy Wilson,
to write this was first announced. This is what I wool production. The second key into shipping containers rather
open new trade agreements with Residential Sales Director of Ulster
article about source of uncertainty for sheep than in a curtain sider. Exports of
said; countries that in the ‘old days’ Carpets said, “Covid had a big
the effects farmers has been the lack of clarity wool to Europe also now require a
“The UK buys huge quantities of used to be difficult logistically to impact on our business, shutting
Brexit has had around the changes to the subsidy VET certificate which adds to costs,
get goods to but the whole world retail and affecting most of our
on the UK goods from the EU and I cannot regime as we leave the Common reduces what customers are able
major contract businesses (hotels,
Wool Textile Industry I had no imagine any European country not is nowadays much easier to trade Agricultural Policy and transition to pay and in turn diminishes the
casinos, convention centres, cruise
idea how complicated it would be. wanting to maintain strong trading with. Shipping has become a very to a system of payments for Public returns to producers.
ships, restaurants, bars etc). All of
Interestingly, the editor asked me links with us. Equally, we export efficient industry. There is time to Goods.
“Several export health certificates these have been heavily affected
five years ago to comment on what many goods and services to Europe ensure we get everything sorted “Given the lack of clarity on the have been changed post by Covid. Many are rebounding
might happen to the wool industry and I don’t see that changing. It out.” financial viability of raising sheep Brexit. The most significant of now, especially retail and some

contract but it will be several years been largely unchanged although, it would appear that companies 8% customs duty, reducing our for the UK to leave the EU. There a divorce. When the EU shunned
before we see a full recovery from if anything, I’ve noticed an increase who prepared fully for Brexit competitiveness. Government are still issues being discussed, David Cameron’s (the then Prime
the massive impact it has had on in EU orders, especially in the and who put the effort in, have advice has been limited at best and argued about and yet to be Minister) requests for help in
our business.” immediate run up to 1st January fared better than those who did the situation regarding deliveries resolved. This has been a very getting the UK a better deal from
He goes on to say, “Measuring 2021. My shipping has always not. Adam says, “As for being to the island of Ireland is still bitter divorce. The EU lost, the the EU, the scene was set!
Brexit after that is a relatively been charged at cost despite prepared for Brexit, I do not think it ambiguous, nearly 5 months after UK lost and it seems only the I believe that if the EU had
minor blip! Whilst the govt went the dire increase in pandemic- possible to have had more warning we left the EU. bureaucrats, politicians, lawyers understood the situation in the
to the last minute on the deal and prices. This has kept my prices of what was to come.”
“Most of our imports are sourced and accountants won! UK the vote to leave would have
we didn’t know what it would be bearable, which I am sure has I asked if problems and issues were from the EU or Turkey so any At the start, when the UK gone the other way. I also believe
until very late on, we had put a lot helped business.” exacerbated by the simultaneous trade agreement with the likes of joined the Common Market it that the EU took a curmudgeonly
of planning in and had a dedicated He continues, “Unfortunately, the outbreak of Covid? Adam says, Australia will have limited impact was envisaged as a free trade hard stance regarding the UK’s
Brexit team internally made up “With regards to the pandemic,
most significant difference has on our way of doing business.” agreement among a small withdrawal to stand as a warning
of people from different parts of whether your business thrived
to be that experienced by my EU number of European countries. to other countries to toe the
the company. We manufacture or dived seems to have been a The common theme among
customers, who have borne the Great harm was done to former line and not ask for a divorce
in the UK, Northern Ireland (NI) sort-of random lottery, mostly those companies worst affected
brunt of pointless bureaucratic trading partners of the UK, themselves.
and Denmark so we have quite a judged by workforce, furlough and is that lack of guidance from
complex scenario to deal with. border nonsense caused by including Australia and New
supplies. My business survived the government and an ultra It has to be seen as a failure of the
pedantic customs agents whose Zealand, and I suspect the UK is
“Having said that we had almost but there have been plenty of EU in many aspects of its workings
sole intention appears to be protective stance from the EU
everything in place on time and well established entities that still not forgiven by some. Other that people are so unhappy with
deterring EU citizens from buying which has led to many problems European countries were “brought
have had a very smooth transition have seemingly vanished for it. Equally, if the bureaucracy,
British products. He goes on to for businesses who have had to into the marriage” and new
with any issues being resolved no obvious reason. I believe British arrogance and downright self
say, “On the other side of this, muddle through as best they can. rules, regulations and laws were
quickly. I would say this was mostly industry’s recovery post-pandemic gratification of some of the
other countries have handled a It was totally unreasonable of both passed. As a trading bloc the EU
down to the work of our internal will have more of an impact on unelected negotiators and
good number of orders without parties to leave the engine room of became globally important. Some
team and the forward planning international trade than Brexit, employees of the EU had been less
hitch or issue; Spain and the the economy in this position. countries (and citizens) within
that was done. The NI protocol with hopefully more demand for odious we would still be members
Netherlands have been especially Europe were unhappy with the
so far has helped in our dealings home-grown/made product and Andrew Seal, CEO of Stonecroft and could thrive and prosper as
with Europe but even then most quick to see goods arrive at their way the marriage was going and
produce taking priority.” Holdings which owns the SIL was the original intention.
Europeans don’t understand it so intended destinations.” wanted to change the rules or get
Several companies have Group, is involved in raw materials; There were many advantages of
we are still having some issues but Following on from the comments
commented that the dual effects (yarn spinning and weaving). He being members of the EU including
it is mainly lack of understanding by Jeremy Wilson and Adam Curtis
of the pandemic and Brexit are had some harsh words to say: free trade, free movement of
“
and communication which we are
working on and resolving quite persuading them to look closer to “Covid is a convenient excuse people, and global strength when
quickly. home for supplies – raw materials currently used for failure: Brexit faced with competition in all
and foodstuffs. and documentation and basically It’s fair to say that Brexit has departments from other huge
“Overall the main impact of Brexit trading blocs. There is strength in
It is not surprising to hear that ‘What you can get away with’ made it a lot harder to export
is increasing paperwork and
different sectors within the being part of the EU. If anything numbers and this should not be
administration as well as increasing product into the EU. As well
wool textile industry have had any criticism of EU was too open, forgotten in future dealings with
transport and handling costs. Even
when things settle down we don’t different experiences throughout and lax in control of borders. But as the additional admin costs, the EU and other nations around
the Brexit period. Mike Dobson, control equals delays. Is it worth it? the world. New trade agreements
believe these will come down.” any shipment of goods not
General Manager, HFD (Headlam From my point of view, NO!” are being formed with countries
From a primarily online sales Floorcovering Distributers) in produced in the UK is subject outside the EU. How these will
perspective, Adam Curtis, MD of Tamworth said, “It’s fair to say that It is obvious that difficulties for affect the wool textile sector is as
to 8% customs duty, reducing
Adam Curtis Online, has found Brexit has made it a lot harder some companies have arisen yet unknown. There is no doubt,
more issues with some countries due to the shortage of time left our competitiveness.” however, that lessons must be
to export product into the EU.
within the EU than others! with farmers, processors and learned by both parties in the now
As well as the additional admin Mike Dobson
Adam says, “My experience of Jeremy Wilson, Ulster Carpets costs, any shipment of goods not manufacturers following the Headlam Floorcovering Distributers failed marriage and that bridges
trade with Europe post-Brexit has produced in the UK is subject to negotiated settlement agreement can be rebuilt.

COMPETENCE IN CARDING
Reaching OCTIR. Woollen. Worsted. Semi worsted.
SRL
customers in
China
wool2yarn china
www.autefa.com
magazine is a cost
effective information
platform providing
textile companies
around the world the
opportunity to reach
buyers in China, in
their own language,
breaking down any
communication
barrier.
wool2yarn china magazine is a Chinese language
publication circulated to over 5000 major
importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool
processing and topmaking mills, spinners and
weavers, carpet and garment manufacturers,
manufactures of yarn and fabric, rugs carpet and
government agencies and ministries in China.
‘For companies seeking new customers, advertising
in wool2yarn china introduces their company to
this targeted decision maker base in all sectors
of the wool industry in China’, says Editor Victor
Member of Beppe Ploner Group
Chesky. ‘For companies that have existing
customers in China, advertising in wool2yarn china
will reinforce their position as a preferred supplier.
wool2yarn china is published in September each
year and is used as a buyers’ guide by companies in The AUTEFA Solutions range of OCTIR cards can process from the finest to the coarsest fiber giving
China over the following 12 months. excellent quality end products from wool, alpaca, cashmere, synthetic fibers and blend of them.
It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market OCTIR cards can guarantee the best consistency and evenness in tops and yarn production, meeting
and is also distributed to all delegates (500+) all customers’ requirements.
attending the annual Nanjing Wool Market
Conference, the major conference for the wool and
early wool processing industry in China.
If your company is interested in advertising in the
2022 issue of wool2yarn china please contact
Victor Chesky at [email protected] or view
more information on www.wool2yarnchina.com

“
Our range of cards can process from the finest
to the coarsest fibre and deliver excellent quality
outcomes in wool, alpaca, and cashmere
” Giacomo Meucci
CARDING TECHNOLOGY
for finer microns
C
ovid-19 restrictions and other natural fibres. Our carding machines are less
have not stopped aggressive when working with AUTEFA cards for processing wool and synthetic fibers for Woollen/Worsted-Semi Worsted technology
‘Our range of cards can process
AUTEFA, successfully finer micron wool, cashmere,
from the finest to the coarsest
completing and and mohair’, Giacomo Meucci
fibre and deliver excellent quality The OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave floor create quick and easy access their textile machinery needs with
commissioning two points out. ‘This allows the yarn
outcomes in wool, alpaca, and Worsted and Semi-worsted Cards to card parts for cleaning and one provider for a better way to
major Cashmere manufacturer a better result
cashmere. They can run at a guarantee high productivity maintenance. operate.
plants in the last year. ‘We are with less twist. Our burr beaters
precise speed, guaranteeing without compromising the quality OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave Woollen AUTEFA Solutions manufacturers,
particularly pleased to install and are designed to remove vm for a
consistency and evenness in top of the top. The result is fibre Carding Sets are available with a OCTIR woollen carding sets process
make fully operational 10 new
and yarn production. Tops will be cleaner result than others.’ fineness from 14.5 - 40 microns
woollen cards at Consinee Group single or double tape condenser, fine and extra fine wool, cashmere
in Ningbo Zhejiang, and four new some 2-3mm longer, creating the ‘We know that each topmaker, and fiber length from 40 - 220mm. as well as either a giant traversing and silk, for high quality weaving
woollen cards at Gobi and Goyo in best yarn and a premium price’, spinner, and weaver has its AUTEFA woollen carding sets creel or a tandem creel. Based and knitting yarns. The product
Mongolia’, says Giacomo Meucci of says Giacomo Meucci. ‘We believe own specific requirements for feature feeding cylinders that on the OCTIR system, the range includes carding sets for
AUTEFA, a leading supplier of cards that finer micron fibres run better processing and a one size fits reduce to 108mm, enabling better synchronization between the standard wool and synthetic
for topmaking. ‘This has been one on our AUTEFA cards, and that all does not work. That is why fibre control, producing a yarn two cards is mechanical (breaker fibers for carpet and blanket
of the biggest projects we have is why fibre users, particularly we always take a very individual with greater evenness and better and finisher) because this is the yarns, as well as worsted cards for
undertaken recently’. Cashmere manufacturers, prefer to approach to the installation of our CV and Uster values. These cards best way to reach the perfect processing wool, mohair, angora,
use our cards’. machines. We really understand provide a more simplified opening synchronization by the various cashmere, synthetic fibers, and
As the natural fibre industry
‘The length of tops is one of each individual process and of the card cover and increased carding set cylinders. silk for high quality weaving and
is increasingly shifting to finer
the most important factors that design each machine to fit into throughput and blending action. knitting yarns.
microns, making tops from finer OCTIR Carding Set technology
microns needs special care and determine profitability for the this process for each individual A control panel with touch-screen works for all fibres. Spinners and Today AUTEFA Solutions is a
specific machinery and Giacomo topmaker. The longer the top the customer – that is our philosophy allows easy management of all weavers of a variety of different preferred partner in supplying
Meucci says ‘we see this increased better the yield and the better the at AUTEFA’, remarks Giacomo functions including fault messages. fibres including wool, noble fibres, cards with advanced mechanical
demand continuing, for Cashmere financial return for the topmaker. Meucci. Side doors without rails on the and synthetics can streamline and electronic technologies.

Wool ComfortMeter
new model
released this year
P
redicting the future the key element, the test head,
is hard, but it has just has been fully re-designed which
become a whole lot easier allows the setup and the testing
to measure the comfort to be more accurate. A recently
level in knitted products completed round trial showed that
made with wool. The the variance between machines
Wool ComfortMeter does just has been significantly reduced.
this. Developed a few years ago In addition the upgraded model
it has been upgraded to include can test the comfort level in yarn, comfort throughout the wool • test in innovation and ‘The wool
a stylish mechanical design, fabric and garments. supply chain. This was previously development stage or test industry has a
modern touchscreen interface, ‘Before the Wool ComfortMeter only done by human touch, that is, existing products very long chain
and more stable motion control became available, the industry was of course, very subjective’, says Dr • specify a comfort score to its of production
of the test head. In particular, not able to objectively measure Henry Wang, Research Scientist at supply chain to comply with one from raw wool to
Australian Wool Testing Authority specific standard garment and as the
(AWTA), who was involved in the wool moves through
design and testing of the upgraded • monitor the consistency of each part of this
Wool ComfortMeter. each batch to ensure consistent chain the quality of the
quality between shipments product can be affected.
The Wool ComfortMeter specifies
• target a level of comfort for Designers and end-users
the number and bending rigidity
consumer base can utilise this technology to
of fibres protruding from a yarn,
fabric or garment that can cause • specify the level of comfort to assign a comfort value score at the We expect that, with the increased
discomfort or irritation. As it control production costs design stage of a new product’s demand for wool in next-to-skin
analyses the surface it assigns a development and rely on the Wool products, objective testing by the
There are three broad levels of ComfortMeter as a predictor of the
single numerical score – the lower comfort for fashion and activewear. Wool ComfortMeter will become a
the score the higher the consumer finished garment at the yarn and
This allows the retailer to target norm for the industry’, he says.
comfort. As the score of these fabric stages,’ says Henry Wang.
the level most suitable to their The Wool ComfortMeter can test
fibres increase so does the level of production for cost and consumer ‘The Wool ComfortMeter allows
other fibres and fabrics such as
discomfort. retailers and manufacturers to
target. natural fibres including flax, hemp
Wool ComfortMeter offers develop and market next-to-
‘The test is non-destructive and is and bamboo products. It can also
advantages to yarn and garment skin wool garments that are
highly accurate, and will provide test the hairiness or smoothness in
manufacturers to: scientifically proven to offer
the supply chain with simple paper products, utilising a different
a more comfortable wearer
• test pilot samples before mass and fast results. This removes the testing configuration.
experience. This means that
production subjective guesswork in assessing retailers and manufacturers can To find out more please contact
• specify the quality of yarn or predicting the final outcome specify and promote a garment [email protected] or
Dr Henry Wang Research Scientist at AWTA required from a supplier and feel of a garment. on the basis of superior comfort. www.woolcomfortandhandle.com

Measure comfort in wool fabric
Take the guess work out of achieving elite quality garments
The Wool ComfortMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to develop and market next-to-skin wool garments which are
scientifically proven to offer a more comfortable wearer experience.
been active are working with synthetic fibre in their Mario Ploner commented that, ‘in these times in
production. The woollen sector has been subdued for which the European Council points attention on
much of the last year but we are seeing a slow upturn sustainability as the keyword of the next decade, we
in interest and activity, from within Europe, so we have also taken action in internal improvements and
remain optimistic. efficiencies within our company. Our solar panels
Q&A ‘As the cost of natural fibre continues to increase

making mistakes with old machinery can be costly. It
also limits the ability for manufacturers to develop
save 97,500 KW and 28,500 euro each year, and
skylights reduce the use of artificial lighting. We have
also invested in two new automatic lathe machines
with Mario Ploner interconnected with the factory system that are
of Tecnomeccanica Biellese new products demanded by customers today. That is user-friendly, increase production and decrease
T
why manufacturers install the latest technology. For consumption. We have also designed new parts to
example, our automatic blending systems process is reduce machinery cleaning time and new consumable
ecnomeccanica Biellese has been precise and blends fibre to exact specification. This components that are easy to change. Welfare and
supplying textile machinery to the ensures production will run smoothly further down health insurance for all our employees are also part of
wool industry for over 50 years and the production chain. our sustainable company operations.’
its customer base includes major
brands such as Loro Piana, Zegna, ‘The safety of staff is an important aspect in textile Mario Ploner concludes by saying, ‘Using the
Botto Giuseppe, Reda, Marzotto, production, particularly at the early stages. It is latest textile machinery is a commercial necessity
Benetton, Miroglio, Consinee Group important to use the latest de-dusting equipment to for any fibre user today. Greater competition and
and TianYu in China, and many others. ensure worker safety against fibre and dust. Our de- environmental accreditations has pushed many
Victor Chesky spoke with Mario Ploner about how dusting system provides clean air and a safe working companies to fast-track upgrades within their
the company has been navigating its way through environment. We have installed this in many parts production plants. We offer manufacturers the latest
Covid-19. of the world including China, South America, and technology options and base our designs on the space
Europe’. they have and to their specific needs’.
Mario Ploner says, ‘Tecnomeccanica has remained
busy during this pandemic, completing a number of
projects globally. We are very pleased that we have
been able to complete the installation of our textile
machinery at Consinee plant and a number of other
locations in Asia and in Europe. It has been quite a
Innovation in loaders
T
challenging time working in a Covid-19 environment
and complying with rules and regulations during and
ecnomeccanica is always innovating able to dose the exact percentages of the various
between lockdowns. Navigating shipping delays has Mario Ploner next to new generation drawing frame Elvo to guarantee quality of downstream components. Loaders can be mounted on weigh cells
also been an issue. But we have completed all these
processes. ‘Automatic loaders carry out that measure and verify the quantities of components
installations on time.
For non-woven products, fiber blending plants at a delicate operation’, explains Mario as the whole bales are loaded onto the machine.
‘We were also very pleased that, as a leading Italian different stages of automation, automatic card-feeding Ploner ‘both in the management of long
manufacturer of textile machinery, we were able to fibers, such as wool and cashmere, which This system allows the operator to dose the
plants, lines of weighing hopper feeders, and edge components directly on the loading table and then
exhibit at ITMA in Shanghai this year. represent our main and native market, and for TNT
trim suction are also available’. start the processing cycle without interruptions, for
where very precise and specific proportions must be
‘Our spare parts division has continued to operate
He comments, ‘It is interesting to note that textile respected in the mix of the various components’. high batch productivity.
uninterrupted and delivery of machinery upgrades
for existing customers have also continued without manufacturers in Spain are now looking to upgrade Constant quality determines the finished product Tecnomeccnica has also developed a measurement
delays. and install new machinery at their textile plants and so in uniformity of colors or percentage of various method based on requests from customers who do
we are turning our attention in this direction. Textile components; the more the quantity control can be not require high productivity, but with specific need
‘Tecnomeccanica Biellese operates in all sectors of the manufacturers in Spain are investing in new machinery anticipated, the better the qualitative results that can to check proportions between components of the
industry where staple fibers are processed. For the
for shorter fibre and blending. We have delivered two be obtained. compound to be processed in even greater detail.
woolen and semi-worsted sector it produces semi-
lines into Spain in recent months. This second system does not weigh the material being
and fully automatic plants for preparing, blending dust Today’s chargers, to be used individually or in battery
removal and automatic feeding of carding-machines. ‘During Covid-19 many of our customers that have units, based on the number of components, are loaded, but out of the loader through openable scales.

Demand from China
keeps prices firm
emerging interest from other to create a good story about
markets. But the strength of traceability all the way from the
demand from China has been so farm to the swing tag on the retail
strong that it has kept prices very garment’, says Evan Croake. ‘We
firm, particularly for finer wool can achieve this through our direct
types. The recovery has been quick buying arm to source certified
and strong and wool growers are non-mulesed wool direct from the
generally happy with the present farm. We match farmers and our
price levels. They are bringing manufacturing clients in a direct
Rod Franklyn their wool to auction, and are not and personal way. These personal
Managing Director
holding wool in stock’. relationships are part of what we
Techwool Trading is the largest do – sourcing specific wool for
exporter of Australian wool and specific products’.
ships over 270,000 bales of wool ‘Our Australian Trusted Trader (TT)
every year. The company trades status is a further benefit to our
greasy wool in all micron types customers. TT reduces red tape at
from 13.5 through to 40 microns, borders and speeds up the flow of
in Merino fleece through to our orders out of Australia’.
skirtings, crossbreds to cardings
and oddment types. Evan Croake comments that
Evan Croake
‘making mistakes when purchasing
Export Trading Manager ‘Our diverse buying options greasy wool can be very costly. Our
provide our customers with team at Techwool strive to ensure
flexibility in seasonal wool types that client needs are met “beyond
and quality. We buy at auction expectation” both in specification
C
hina has been the first and also have a large direct buying and delivery time. Every lot we
country to emerge operation throughout Australia’. source, whether direct from farm
from the Covid-induced ‘At Techwool we can offer full or at auction is physically inspected
economic downturn, and traceability and environmental by hand, graded and valued
the strong performance certification to customer according to client specification.
of the Chinese economy requirement. We are accredited At the end of the day, we take
has underpinned the demand with Responsible Wool Standards pride in what we deliver and make
for Australian wool. Evan Croake, (RWS), and can supply non- it our business to ensure the
Export Manager at Techwool mulesed wool, offering choice and manufacturers’ needs are met,’ he
Trading, points out that ‘for the options to customers’. says.
last 18 months China was the only ‘More than ever, today’s consumer For more information
buyer of substantial quantities wants to know the story behind www.techwool.com.au or contact
of Australian wool. From July of the garment. Wool manufacturers, Evan Croake at
this year there has been some particularly in Europe, are keen [email protected]

A better solution
for users of Australian wool
carbonise it, and deliver it anywhere in the world. By
carbonising in Australia our customers are reducing
shipping weight as well as receiving the benefits of
well processed wool’.
The company’s carbonising plant is located
in Melbourne. Established in 1990 by Mr Jim
Kim, the company has been trading and processing
carbonised wool for almost 40 years. It also offers a
comprehensive greasy fleece buying service for both
firm offer and indent buying. It has buyers throughout
all wool growing regions of Australia sourcing any
wool types for its customers from lambs to full fleece
merino crossbreds and downs wool.
David Ritchie adds, ‘we recognise that there may be
many options to carbonise standard Australian wool
types in China. But when specific wool types need
specific attention it makes better sense to carbonise
in Australia where we have the expertise to process
these specific wool types. We also guarantee meeting
your specifications. In today’s market where wool
prices continue to rise mistakes can be costly’.
‘Brands can be assured that using Australian
David Ritchie (General Manager)
and Myungjin (Jim) Kim (Chairman) carbonised wool provides the best guarantee that the
T
wool they receive is genuine Australian wool and of
he advantages to buying carbonised the best quality and prepared to their specifications’.
wool rather than greasy wool is quite Brands that are also environmentally astute or require
obvious, according to David Ritchie of environmental certification can be assured that their
Victoria Wool Processors (VWP). ‘Due wool has been processed under certified conditions.
to the rising labour and energy costs Main destinations for VWP wool are Japan and
in Asia, as well as shipping delays, and South Korea where consistent quality, traceability,
environmental compliance costs, wool exporters and environmental accreditation are paramount.
topmakers increasingly consider carbonising their
wool in Australia. Current trade tensions place wool ‘Most Australian processors have environmental
processors at risk of interrupted supply. Later stage accreditations including GOTS, Sustainawool,
RWS, and others’, says David Ritchie. ‘When wool
wool processors may want to consider a more diverse
is processed in Australia traceability is clear and
supply line and have their early stage wool processing
transparent. Topmakers or spinner using Australian
done in Australia to minimise this risk. This will ensure
wool should compare our prices with processors in
that in any event existing clients will be guaranteed
Asia. You will see that we are competitive and you
continuous supply.
will be assured that you are getting 100% Australian
‘We work with wool exporters, spinners, and weavers wool that has not been blended with wools of other
around the world. We provide a one-stop-shop origins. We can also provide non-mulesing certificates
service to source greasy wool to their specification, when required’.

Australian exporter adds
private buying & RWS certification
company is keen to develop new
business in Japan and Europe
now that it has direct buying,
traceability and RWS certification.
The company has recently moved
to new premises with greater
warehousing capacity, necessary
to back up its direct buying, and
maintain wool stocks at the ready
for customers.
‘Wool users around the world
are increasingly demanding
transparency and traceability
certifications. That is why EWE
Josh Lamb at the new Endeavour warehouse facility has become Responsible Wool
E
Standards (RWS) certified this
ndeavour Wool Exports ‘It also adds to our ability to year. Retailers are demanding
(EWE) was established provide traceability from farm this certification and at the end
four years ago and in when required by our customers of the day we provide what our
that short time it has worldwide’, he comments. ‘As customers ask, and currently that
become one of the main demand for traceability becomes is RWS’, Josh Lamb comments.
exporters of Australian one of the most important ‘The industry must embrace
wool. Last year the company made components of wool buying, traceability and environmentally
a strong move to develop a private particularly for our European friendly certification – because if
buying arm that complements its customers, direct sourcing from you think the present consumer is
auction buying business. farms enables the consumer to savvy the future consumer will be
make the connection to the wool even more so – and we need the
Josh Lamb, EWE managing director growing source’. industry to be transparent into the
and president of Australian Council
‘We have close working future’.
of Wool Exporters, says, ‘private
relationships with the farmers we ‘In our four years of operation we
buying creates additional strength buy from so their flexibility and
to the services we already offer have been able to build a solid
diversity of operation is something client base because we focus on
and in particular it enables us we can work to support. Our the individual, bespoke approach.
to deliver to customers without country managers, Geoff Stevens We provide uniform deliveries to
interruption during periods of and Phil Schultz, are on the ground customer specification. We supply
auction recess. The Australian and are in constant communication any type of Australian wool from
auction system is closed for with wool growers. 14.5 - 36 micron and are always
seven weeks of the year and to EWE exports in excess of 150,000 keen to share information with
ensure that our customers receive bales of Australian wool every our customers regarding the latest
uninterrupted supply, direct buying year. This is 9% of the Australian market conditions and wool types
enables continuous buying 52 wool clip. Its main export market available throughout the season’,
weeks a year. is China, Europe, and Japan. The he says.

Scoured NZ wool a better option
colour, and we always scour to
customer specification’, Nigel Hales
comments.
WoolWorks operates two plants
in the North Island and one in the
South Island, washing every type of
wool, from fine merino for clothing
through to coarse wool for carpets.
It has a processing capacity of 100
million kg of greasy wool per year.
It operates computer controlled
greasy blending system.
‘We offer each customer a tailor
made wool processing service.
N
ew Zealand wool has clean, ready to use New Zealand We run highly developed and
an average yield of wool’, says Nigel Hales, CEO of fine-tuned ANDAR “Top Master
over 77%. ‘Therefore WoolWorks. ‘At a time when Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool
importers of greasy wool logistics is so expensive, incurring to exacting quality standards. Our
will receive 23% dirt and vm extra shipping costs is unnecessary wool scouring process has the
and other contaminants when and can be avoided’. lowest levels of non-fibre residue
importing New Zealand wool in anywhere in the world’.
Over 75% of New Zealand wool
greasy form. It doesn’t make any is exported in scoured form. Nigel Hales points out that, ‘As we
commercial sense when your wool ‘Companies that do import scoured are an independent wool scourer
can be scoured in New Zealand. New Zealand wool also benefit there is no conflict of interest and
Customers will receive 100% by receiving 100% New Zealand all customer specifications are kept
wool that has not been blended in strict confidence’.
with inferior types from other
After scouring, every bale is
countries’, Hales says.
tested for moisture content,
Most European companies already residual grease, colour and weight.
import New Zealand wool in WoolWorks is an approved core
scoured form. ‘The increasing testing supplier with both SGS New
costs of scouring in China and the Zealand and the New Zealand Wool
closure of some scouring facilities Testing Authority (NZWTA).
there have made our scouring
The company is accredited with
costs very competitive, cheaper
Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for
than in Asia, when all things
‘100% Organic certified Scoured
considered. In addition the wool
New Zealand Wool’ and RWS.
is ready for further processing
without delay and without hassle. WoolWorks can be contacted at
Our scoured wool is consistent in [email protected] or
Nigel Hales at Timaru plant quality, and uniform length and www.woolworks.co.nz

Setting the standard
in wool and textile testing
 Comprehensive range of tests covering fibres, fabrics, carpets, flammability and wool grease
Accredited, accessible, timely  Fibre length measurement on scoured wool  Core testing of greasy and scoured wool
 Staple measurement on greasy wool  Fleece measurement on individual animals
wool testing wherever you are in the world

 Internationally recognised and accredited to ISO 17025
 Member of Interwoollabs  Licensed IWTO laboratory
T
oday manufacturers are purchasers who are often unable This extensive suite of tests
unlikely to jeopardise to see the fibre before they buy it’, includes yield and vegetable
production outcomes he says. ‘It also gives spinners and matter, micron, staple length and
by relying on wool weavers the ability to predict the strength, and conditioned weight.
that may not meet quality of the finished product’. Other valuable tests such as colour
expectation or order can help when there is a perceived
‘At NZWTA we can carry out these
parameters. This is why over issue and not a real problem.
tests for any customer around the
90% of wool sold is tested by world. Some wool producers and These tests which are not all
accredited wool testing houses processors around the world may widely offered in other laboratories
such as New Zealand Wool Testing not have access to a trustworthy or are regularly used by NZWTA
Authority (NZWTA). NZWTA accredited testing facility in their customers to better describe
offers core testing of greasy country. We offer our international their wool. For some wool
and scoured wool, staple length customers easy access to robust producers perceived problems
measurement of greasy wool, fibre quarantine procedures, prompt can be quantified and their impact
length measurement of scoured service times, a wide range of minimised.
wool, fleece measurement from key tests, and an international
individual animals, as well as a reputation for high quality Certificate verification has been a
comprehensive range of tests certification, if it is not readily popular service offered by NZWTA
covering fibres, fabrics, carpets, available in their country. and available on its website.
flammability and wool grease. The Purchasers of wool can verify the
‘We have access to international
company is based in Napier New certificates they have been sent
freight services enabling us to
Zealand and is Interwoollab and by fax or email, to ensure they are
provide wool testing services to a
IWTO Accredited. genuine certificates. This process
growing number of International
‘Sellers receive better prices if wool and textile customers. We can be accessed on the website by
their wool is tested and buyers and regularly tests wool from Chile, the entering the test number and the
processors will receive assurance Falkland Islands, USA, Canada, and verification code from the copy of
that the wool will process to their Kenya. Our customers in all these the certificate. A secure copy of
expectations’, says David Alexander, countries rely on our wide ranging the certificate will be emailed back
NZWTA Customer Manager. ‘Today and independent testing services’. to the customer.
most wool processors use a more
diverse mix of combed wool types.
It is essential that all lots are
tested. This is even more important
in skirting types where variability
in sales lots will be higher than in
fleece types. And as manufacturers
today source wool from
countries right around the globe
specifications provide certainty to
Setting the standard in wool measurement
22 Bridge Street • PO Box 12065, Ahuriri, Napier 4144, New Zealand

Tel: +64 6 835 1086 • Fax: +64 6 835 6473 • Email: [email protected] • www.nzwta.co.nz
Wool2Yarn talks to British Wool’s
Growing demand is a key focus for our Chinese office offers great products wool is in a prime
the business and to this end we potential as we try to attract new position to capitalise.
are working on numerous product users of British Wool in what is the
new CEO Andrew Hogley

With the availability of information
development projects from largest global market for wool.
on social media platforms we are
increasing the use of British wool
I
What do you see as the outlook dealing with increasingly savvy
in existing product categories to for the cross-bred wool market? consumers who are fully aware
am originally from supporting exciting new innovative Wool is a wonderfully natural of the damage oil based synthetic
Huddersfield and after
uses for wool. This is an area that product that ticks every box products and micro plastics are
graduating from Trinity
has lacked investment over the from an environmental and life doing to the environment. Things
College, Cambridge the first
part of my career was in the years but is a key focus for the cycle perspective. As consumers have to change and wool should be
city working as an equity business moving forward. Finally demand more ethically sourced part of the solution.
research analyst. After 16 years
in London the pull of Yorkshire
Selling British wool direct to the consumer

proved too much and I took the
position of Director of Wool Sales
& Producer Services at British Wool
A
in 2017. I have been CEO since
November 2020. s part of its consumer
focused marketing
Clearly the wool market has been strategy British Wool have
through a tough period, have launched a consumer facing
things started to recover? e-commerce website. The website
sells a wide array of British wool,
The past 18 months have been
rich products including clothing,
very challenging. During the
duvets and pillows, knitting yarn,
first Covid lockdown many of our It is fair to say that there is still breadth of products that British
insulation and even dog beds
customers stopped processing some way to go but we are wool is used in and also allows us
direct to the consumer. Graham
and British Wool effectively had confident that prices will continue to translate consumer demand Clark, Director of Marketing,
no market to sell into. When the to recover through the new for British wool rich products into explains, “This is a very exciting
market reopened in the summer of season. sales for our licensees. Over time development and one that will
2020 we had a significant stockpile we hope to see our website grow help us to drive real demand for
of wool and were selling into a very What plans does British Wool
into the number 1 destination for British wool products with the
depressed market. I’m glad to say have moving forward?
everything British wool. consumer. We are initially working
that market conditions are now As a farmers co-operative our with 10 of our licensee partners
improving; auction prices have primary aim is to maximise the We are also keen to work with
and plan to increase this as we
started to recover (up 40% from returns for our 35,000 members’ the downstream supply chain
develop the product offering over buy British wool products. This for information on British wool
the low) and we have cleared our wool. All of our plans centre on on initiatives such as trials for
the coming months.” site allows us to direct them to a
stock from the 2020 season. this, whether it be maximising traceable wool which we are products.”
the volume of wool we handle to piloting this year. With consumer As well as driving demand for destination that we know only sells
One key market that has been Clark concluded, “We very much
interest in provenance and animal products made from British wool genuine British wool products.
severely affected by Covid has minimise handling costs or driving see the new site becoming the
the organisation will also receive We plan to integrate the site into
been contract carpets (hotels, front end demand for our product. welfare growing, this is an area number 1 destination in the UK
a commission on every sale made our social media plans, we have
cruise ships, airports and casinos), In the UK our strategy of building where we see significant growth for genuine British wool products,
through the site. This additional over 115,000 followers who are
which for obvious reasons saw a British Wool as a consumer brand potential over the next few years. helping us drive sales and demand,
revenue will be returned to British highly engaged giving us an ideal
sharp drop in demand during the is gaining traction. Our social We want to work with end brands and ultimately increasing the
Wool’s producers. The site will audience to target. Our current
pandemic. We are optimistic for a media following is now over 115k and processors to understand and be a key part of British Wool’s returns our producers receive for
website also receives around
recovery in this sector as pent-up and we recently launched a British meet this need. Our aspiration activities moving forward, Clark 14,000 unique visitors every month their wool.”
demand comes through over the Wool e-commerce website. Our will be to make all British wool explains. “We are constantly asked and an increasing proportion of The website can be found at
next 6-12 months. website showcases the amazing traceable over the next few years. by consumers where they can the visitors are consumers looking www.britishwool.org.uk/shop.

Tennis great Andy Murray competes in Merino wool
A
ndy Murray returned to Wimbledon
this summer competing in an innovative
Merino wool performance kit. The first-
of-its-kind wool blend tennis apparel
collection has been engineered with Merino
wool using cutting-edge technology to enhance
athletic performance.
“I’ve been testing the kit for a few months
now and am really happy with how it feels and
performs. I work closely with the designers on
every piece and give regular feedback – for me,
the technical performance is vital. It’s also very
important the kit is sustainable and I like the
Andy Murray fact it looks and feels a bit different.”
British Wool – beautiful, versatile,
durable and timeless. Naturally.
Basketball star chooses Merino wool
Magic Johnson said of him: “Ben Simmons is the
best all round player I’ve seen since Lebron James
came out of high school straight to the NBA!” The
24-year-old’s high profile has also garnered him a large
following on social media, with 5.4 million followers
on Instagram alone.
Ben’s recently launched merchandise: a T-shirt made
from 100% super soft Australian Merino wool of
18.9 micron. Designed by Ben himself, the T-shirt
seamlessly blends high-performance, sustainability
and high fashion. The T-shirt carries the Woolmark
seal of approval following a rigorous quality assurance
Ben Simmons
process which guarantees fibre authenticity and long-
A
ustralian-born NBA All-Star Ben Simmons has life performance.
collaborated with AWI to develop his first- “We chose to work with Australian Merino wool
ever merchandise: a high-performance T-shirt because it’s a sustainable, ethically produced fibre
made from Australian Merino wool. that’s also incredibly high quality. It’s soft, odour
Ben Simmons from Melbourne is currently Australia’s resistant and temperature regulating, and it has an
greatest sporting export and one of the most gifted amazing drape,” Ben said. “For me, you shouldn’t have
players in the American NBA. Ben debuted in 2017 to compromise between luxury and performance, and
for the Philadelphia 76s and was named NBA Rookie I’m proud that it’s produced in Australia, so Merino From fashion to flooring, British Wool is more versatile than you may think. It’s also luxurious, hard-wearing,
of the Year in 2018 and an NBA All-Star in 2019, 2020 wool was a natural choice for the fabric.” flame retardant and connects people to nature – beautifully. Create more natural products with British Wool.
and 2021. Source: AWI
To find out more about the unique properties of British Wool visit our website britishwool.org.uk
or email [email protected]
Why advertising works
When business is GOOD it PAYS to advertise.
When business is BAD you MUST advertise.
O
ne thing is for sure, if buyers have never textile companies in over 60 countries worldwide. It
heard about your company they cannot is circulated by direct mail to all major importers and
buy your product. You simply exporters of wool and speciality fibre,
cannot contact 20,000 people. wool carbonisers, topmakers, spinners,
Advertising in woo2yarn weavers and fabric, garments, and
magazines can. Advertising promotes carpet manufacturers.
your product to new markets and
wool2yarn china is circulated to over
reassures your existing customers that
5000 wool importers, wool processors
buying from your company is the right
(scouring and carbonising), topmakers,
choice.
spinners and weavers, and fabric and
To get your message across you must carpet manufacturers in China by
have a profile that your customers and Nanjing Wool Market.
potential customers can see and easily
wool2yarn china is also distributed to
access. Magazine advertising is targeted
all delegates (500+) attending the annual
and builds product awareness.
Nanjing Wool Market Conference,
wool2yarn global and wool2yarn china the major international conference
magazines are published once each for the wool and textile industry in
year and advertising in both of these China. Attendees include leading
publications will connect you to all Chinese companies from greasy wool
major wool companies using wool and importers and processors to garment
speciality fibres in their production. manufacturers.
wool2yarn global is an English language For more information visit us at
publication, circulated to 5000 wool and www.wool2yarnglobal.com
Who Reads Us
Yarn Manufacturers
Garment / Carpet Retail
7% 21%
Garment / Carpet Manufacturers Fabric Manufacturers

11% 16%
Government Agencies 4%
17%
24%
Exporters / Importers / Agents
Wool & Top Processing

BU Y W O O L TO PS O N LIN E
www.lempriere-market.com
E X C E L L E N C E I N W O O L T O P
B U L G A R I A
IC T E X TI L
AN
BAL ORG
E
STANDAR
LO
G D
•
GOTS
•
Lempriere Wool EOOD

Bansko Shosse 18 A, Zona Dinamo, Sliven 8800, Email : [email protected]
Phone: +359 875 138 237

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BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2021-2022

Acknowledgements Art & Design ITP publications

SUSTAINABLE RESPONSIBLE VERSATILE

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World Wool Production 2021-22

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The worsted sector has been particularly hard-

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Vicuña in highlands of Peru

following natures lead wool,’ comments Angus Ireland,

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Image courtesy of REDA

36 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 37

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New appointment at NZWTA Schoeller yarns - always one step ahead

organic vegetable production. His interest spread licensed IWTO laboratory.

40 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 41

NEW ZEALAND LAUNCHES

42 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 43

” from accredited sources.’

NZ Wool Export Companies Join NZ National Standard for Wool

44 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 45

A NEW LANDSCAPE EMERGING

48 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 49

52 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 53

54 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 55

Progressive Sustainability Initiatives future be in a position to supply

58 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 59

WOOL TESTING BUREAU S.A. Wool Testing Bureau SA

62 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 63

Market Report by Marco Coetzee

66 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 67

The Mohair Empowerment Trust

70 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 71

‘The semi-automatic options allow for some

74 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 75

of knits, the first made using partners to work on the capsule

for people on the go heat treatment, provides wool

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he International Woolmark Prize recognises emerging fashion talent

78 | wool2yarnglobal 2021 wool2yarnglobal 2021 | 79

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with a particular focus

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WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS

PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL

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Accessible global testing services

Many manufacturing hubs in Eastern Europe

Marco Scheel NordWolle outdoor wear from current collection

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Impartial Wool Testing Services.

worsted cards make a difference peripheral speeds, a low

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W235card 3.5 m w.w. Conventional 3.5 m w.w.