Untitled
Untitled
SCOTLAND
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SCOTLAND
Main Contributors Juliet Clough, Keith Davidson,
Sandie Randall & Alastair Scott
Project Editor Rosalyn Thiro
Art Editor Marisa Renzullo
Editors Felicity Crowe, Emily Green
Designer Paul Jackson
Managing Editors Fay Franklin, Louise Bostock Lang
Managing Art Editor Annette Jacobs
Senior Editor Helen Townsend
Editorial Director Vivien Crump
Art Director Gillian Allan
Publisher Douglas Amrine
Picture Research Brigitte Arora
DTP Designers Maite Lantaron, Lee Redmond
Contributors Juliet Clough, Keith Davidson, Alan Freeman, Sandie Randall,
Alastair Scott, Roger Smith
Maps Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes (Colourmap Scanning, London)
Photographers Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, Stephen Whitehorn
Illustrators Richard Bonson, Gary Cross, Jared Gilby, Paul Guest, Kevin Jones Associates, Claire
Littlejohn, Chris Orr & Associates, Ann Winterbotham The dramatic, sunlit ruins of Tantallon
Castle, on the southeast coast
Printed and bound in Malaysia by Vivar Printing Sdn Bhd.
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Introducing
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2002, 2004, 2004, 2006, Scotland
2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016
Copyright 1999, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Discovering Scotland 8
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no Putting Scotland on the
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
Map 14
or otherwise), Without the prior permission of both the copyright owner and the
above publisher of this book. A Portrait of Scotland 16
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
Scotland Through
the Year 40
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1465-440-532
Throughout this book,floors are referred to in accordance with European usage ie the
The History of Scotland 44
“first floor” is one floor above ground level
Glasgow 98
Travellers’ Needs
Where to Stay 170
Edinburgh 56
Mary, Queen of Scots (1542–87) of the Acknowledgments 231 Walkers enjoying a glorious summer’s day
House of Stuart in Glen Etive
DISCOVERING SCOTLAND
The following tours have been designed to tour. Next comes a ten-day tour of the
take in as many of Scotland’s highlights as Highlands and islands on a route of
possible, while keeping long-distance travel outstanding beauty, which includes
to a minimum. First come two two-day tours magnificent castles, mysterious Loch
of Scotland’s great rival “capitals”, Edinburgh Ness, tiny islands off the coast of Mull, the
and Glasgow. Then there is a three-day tour best of mountain and glen, and unlimited
of the Lowlands, the varied region south of whisky-tasting opportunities. Combine and
the Highlands. These tours can be followed follow your favourite tours, or dip in and out
individually or combined to form a week-long picking those experiences that most inspire.
Eilean
Donan
Castle Drumnadrochit
Kyleakin
Fort Augustus
Isle of Skye
Loch Garry
Mallaig
Road to the
Isles
Glenfinnan Fort William
Dryburgh Abbey
One of the most evocative monastic abbeys in the Borders,
Dryburgh is the final resting place of novelist Sir Walter Scott. Glencoe
Visit nearby Scott’s View to enjoy wonderful panoramas over
the surrounding countryside. Fingal's Cave
Oban
Mull Loch Awe
Loch
Iona Bunessan Fyne
Inveraray Loch
Katrine
Crarae Gardens
Three Days in the Lowlands Loch
Lochgilphead Lomond
•
Stand among the •
Admire the mighty walls
astonishing masonic of Caerlaverock Castle Glasgow
symbols of Rosslyn as it rises defiantly
Chapel, immortalized above its moat.
in The Da Vinci Code. •
Don’t miss Culzean
•
Follow the twisting Castle on the Ayrshire
roads through the coast, a magnificent Ayr
romantic land and showcase of opulence
Culzean Castle
villages that inspired in Robert Adam’s Neo-
Scotland’s greatest Classical style.
writers, Robert Burns •
Be blown away by New
and Sir Walter Scott. Lanark, an 18th-century Galloway
Forest Park
•
Explore the great industrial village built by
Border Abbeys – a philanthropist who
Dryburgh, Melrose, was ahead of the times.
Jedburgh, Kelso – all •
Be lifted skywards in
of which are utterly a barge on the unique
majestic, especially engineering marvel of 0 kilometres 50
in ruin. the Falkirk Wheel. 0 miles 50
New
Lanark Scott's View
Melrose Dryburgh
Moffat
Dumfries
Caerlaverock Castle
Kirkcudbright
Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness
Enjoy the breathtaking scenery
of Loch Ness and the
surrounding Great Glen with a
cruise on the lakes and a drive
through the hills.
10 INTRODUCING SCOTLAND
Scottish Parliament
building (p71), a
Two Days in Glasgow
controversial piece
of architecture cost- Glasgow has everything
ing over £400 Edinburgh has but perhaps
million to build. If with more wit, friendliness
you’re fit, hike up and a determination to be
Arthur’s Seat different.
(1 hour) (p71) for •
Arriving Glasgow airport
great views. Later,
is 12 km (7 miles) west of the
take in some
city centre. Taxis and shuttle
evening theatre,
buses take 25 minutes
The Military Tattoo, performed in the shadow a concert or a
outside rush hour.
of Edinburgh Castle ghost tour.
•
Moving on Trains run
Two Days in Day 2 every 15 mins to Edinburgh
Edinburgh Morning Start at the National (50-minute journey) or hire
Museum of Scotland’s a car to explore elsewhere.
Beautiful, stately and full (pp66–7) bright and modern
of history and parks, the presentation of everything
nation’s capital is truly from whales to the famous Day 1
the festival city with Lewis chessmen. Be sure to Morning Start with a quick
constant cultural events enjoy a coffee on the roof. visit to 13th-century Glasgow
throughout summer. Pass the emotive statue of Cathedral (p103), a rarity in
Greyfriars Bobby (p66) on Scotland having escaped
•
Arriving Edinburgh Airport
your way to the shopping destruction during the
is 12 km (7 miles) west of the
haven of Princes Street Reformation. Walk from
city. Buses and taxis take 25
(pp68–9), or find peace in here past the imposing City
minutes outside rush hour.
the adjacent gardens, which Chambers in George Square
•
Moving on Trains run every boast a floral clock. (p102), but save at least an hour
15 minutes to Glasgow Afternoon Explore the for the Gallery of Modern Art
(50-minute journey). Georgian architecture of the (p102) to see outrageously
•
Booking ahead Edinburgh New Town (pp68–9) but leave brilliant and challenging
Castle (to beat the queues) a couple of hours free for the exhibits. Shop and lunch in
National Gallery (p67) – don’t Sauchiehall Street, the city’s
miss Raeburn’s iconic painting vibrant retail centre. The street
Day 1 commonly dubbed The is also a highlight for fans of Art
Morning Edinburgh Castle Skating Minister. Everything on Nouveau designer Charles
(pp64–5) is the city’s crowning this day’s tour is close together Rennie Mackintosh (p105)
glory – the official free tour is so you might have energy whose works can be seen at the
well worth following. Allow at left to walk up Calton Hill Willow Tea Room (p104) or
least 2.5 hours and don’t miss (25 minutes) (p70) for fine Glasgow School of Art (p104).
the Honours of Scotland and city perspectives, or pick an Afternoon Travel further out
Mons Meg, a medieval super- alternative evening entertain- to see Kelvingrove Art Gallery
cannon. Then stroll down the ment from Day 1. As the “festival and Museum (p106) and marvel
Royal Mile (pp60–63), the city” Edinburgh is never short of at Dali’s Christ of St John of the
main thoroughfare of the Old shows or performances. Cross. Afterwards take a relaxing
Town and a delightful
mayhem of entertainers
during the Festival (pp82–3).
Pop into St Giles Cathedral to
see the bagpiping angel.
Afternoon Pause for lunch as
you descend this historic
street. At the bottom let the
dazzling exhibition Our
Dynamic Earth (p71) (closed
Mon & Tue Nov–Mar) literally
shake the ground under your
feet or, if you’re still thirsting
for more history, visit the
Palace of Holyroodhouse
(pp70–71). Take a look at the
adjacent love-it-or-hate-it Gallery of Modern Art, Glasgow
DISCOVERING SCOTLAND 11
Day 2
Morning Start the day at the
world-renowned Burrell
Collection (pp108–9) – a
spacious and masterful display
of treasures collected by a
19th-century shipping magnate.
Many visitors fall for the
tapestries and the stained glass
– keep an eye out for the scenes
of everyday life, such as a man
warming his feet before a fire.
Afternoon Lunch here or at Art installation hanging over the grand stairway at Kelvingrove Art Gallery, Glasgow
the Glasgow Science Centre
(p106), a striking, titanium a beautiful vista over the back in time. Don’t linger too
structure at the edge of the Tweed to the Eildon Hills. In long as the day’s highlight
River Clyde. Wonderful and the afternoon drive through awaits – the exquisite
whacky, this place will keep woods and sheep-covered interiors of the stately
children busy for hours and hills via Moffat to Dumfries for mansion Culzean Castle
expand their minds in the the night. Check out its lively (pp96–7). Its Oval Staircase is
process. Adults too will find performance venues. nothing short of perfection.
themselves enthralled as they Spend the night in Ayr or the
“walk” on the moon or watch Day 2: Explore Castles golfing town of Troon.
their faces rejuvenate. It’s easy First stop just south of
to use up what’s left of the Dumfries is Caerlaverock Day 3: New Lanark
afternoon here, so end the day Castle (p94), one of the few and Falkirk
with a well-deserved pint and castles to have retained its From Ayr, which is the
some live music at a pub. moat. With its immense heartland of Robert Burns
towers, the castle is an country (p93) with charming
Three Days in the impressive sight. If you’d lanes and hedgerows, you
Lowlands prefer, head straight from can either follow a trail
Dumfries to tranquil Loch dedicated to the national
•
Arriving Either Glasgow or Trool for a walk in Galloway poet (via Alloway and
Edinburgh airport. Do the Forest Park (p94). Either Mauchline) or enjoy similar
tour in either direction. way, stop for lunch or a break scenery on the way to New
•
Transport A car is essential. in Kirkcudbright (p94), a Lanark (p92). Allow two
charming seaside town. This hours to explore the village,
part of Scotland displays a located by the falls on the
Day 1: Chapel and Abbeys love of crafts and sculpture River Clyde, and head to the
Start at 15th-century Rosslyn and feels like a welcome step Visitor Centre for an insight
Chapel (p91), just outside of into the Victorian mills and
Edinburgh and star of The Da the philanthropic industrialist
Vinci Code, to see its treasure who ran them. Lunch here
of cryptic stone sculptures, and continue to the Falkirk
especially the Apprentice Pillar. Wheel (p129). Board a barge
Drive to Melrose and devote and be hoisted 35 m (115 ft)
most of the day to the ruins from one section of canal
of the Border Abbeys (p89): to another, a unique and
Melrose, Kelso, Jedburgh and exhilarating experience with
Dryburgh. If time is tight, or if fabulous views. Spend the
four abbeys is just too many, night in Glasgow.
set your sights on Dryburgh
(p89) – it’s particularly To extend your trip…
evocative and nestled in Head to Stirling and follow
a bend of the River Tweed. the ten-day tour of the
Lunch here or have a picnic Moat around Caerlaverock Castle, one of the Highlands & islands.
at nearby Scott’s View (p89), finest castles in Scotland
12 INTRODUCING SCOTLAND
Ten Days in the Aberfoyle drive up the Bunessan for a boat trip (Apr–
Highlands & Islands western shore of Loch Oct) to Fingal’s Cave (p137) – a
Lomond (p119), taking in the wonder of volcanic rock
•
Arriving Glasgow or pretty village of Luss on the formations on the Isle of Staffa.
Edinburgh airport. way, then over the mountains Weather permitting, the boat
•
Transport A car is essential. to Loch Fyne, famous for its will motor into the cave and let
seafood. Catch a glimpse of you land. You may even spot a
•
Booking ahead Loch
Inveraray Castle (p134) as puffin. If the boat is cancelled
Katrine cruise; Oban–Mull
you head for the superb due to bad weather (or you
ferry (return); Fingal’s Cave
Crarae Gardens (p134). have time afterwards), drive
boat trip; Mallaig–Armadale
Here you can wander among on to Fionnphort to visit Iona
ferry (one-way); Golf at
exotic flora from around the (p137), a gem of the Hebrides.
St Andrew’s (book months
world – always delightful but The ferry is reliable and you
ahead); all Highland
at its best in spring. In the don’t need to book for the
Games events.
afternoon you can afford to narrow crossing. The abbey,
enjoy time out in the town once with broad influence
of Lochgilphead and to make across Europe, is hugely popular
Day 1: Stirling and the most of the scenery on with visitors. The isle has
The Trossachs the sinuous road to Oban dazzling beaches too. Return
Start early and climb by foot (p136). Spend two nights in to Oban for the night.
or car to crag-top Stirling this bustling harbour town.
Castle (pp124–5) to see far- Day 4: Oban to Skye
reaching views. Admire the Day 3: Fingal’s Cave and Iona A route of stunning scenery
best Renaissance architecture Pack a picnic, board the Oban– starts with Loch Awe (p136)
in Scotland, particularly the Mull car ferry, and then drive to which lives up to its name but
Palace and Great Hall. You’ll is completely overshadowed
need two or three hours to by the massive rent in the
do it justice. Drive to Callendar mountains that comes later at
for lunch and then continue Glencoe (p138). Call in at the
on to the beauty of The Visitor Centre and learn about
Trossachs national park the tragic massacre in 1692.
(pp120–21). Take a trip Have lunch here or below Ben
aboard a genuine Victorian Nevis. At Fort William you’ll
steamship on Loch Katrine join the scenic Road to the
(Apr–Oct) to best appreciate Isles Tour (pp140–41).
the wildlife and rugged Glenfinnan has a moving
mountains. Spend the memorial to Bonnie Prince
night at Aberfoyle. Charlie (p157) and is the
location of the 21-arch viaduct
Day 2: The Trossachs to Oban featured in the Harry Potter
This is a day of lochs, both Boats moored in the bright blue waters off movies. Overnight in the
freshwater and sea. From the shore of Iona fishing port of Mallaig (p141).
For practical information on travelling around Scotland, see pp216–23
DISCOVERING SCOTLAND 13
C
Port of Ness
n er
the historic capital, and Glasgow is the
We s t
largest city with a population of South Kyle of
Uist Lochalsh
596,500. The country has good Isle of
Lochboisdale Skye
road, rail and ferry connections.
Armadale
es
Barra Fort Augustus
rid
Castlebay Rum Mallaig
Eigg
Heb Muck
Fort
Coll William
Tobermory
Tiree
Key to Map Mull
Motorway (highway) Craignure
Inner
Oban
Major road Isle of
Iona Crianlarich
Minor road Bunessan
Ballycastle
Dunfanaghy
Coleraine
NORTHERN
Letterkenny
Londonderry/ IRELAND Cairnryan
Derry
Ballymena
Ballybofey
Larne
Stranraer
Donegal
Cookstown Antrim Newtownabbey
Omagh
Lough Bangor
Neagh Drummore
Ballygawley
Belfast
N ORWAY
Lisburn
SWEDEN Armagh Portadown
Strangford Isle of
SCOTLAND North Monaghan Man
D E N MA R K
Sea Newry Douglas
REP. OF
IRELAND UNITED
KINGDOM NETHERLANDS Dundalk
GERMANY Kells
BELGIUM
CZECH Drogheda
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC OF
FRANCE
SWITZ.
AUSTRIA IRELAND
Atlantic Kinnegad
Ocean ITALY
Dublin
SPAI N
Holyhead
Wick Unst
Orkney and
Yell
Shetland
Islands
Helmsdale Shetland
Brae
Islands
Mainland
Walls
Foula Lerwick
Fraserburgh
Elgin
Inverness Peterhead
Loch
Ness
Fair
Aviemore Isle
Aberdeen
Westray
Braemar Sanday
De e
Mainland
Stronsay
SCOTLAND Kirkwall
Stromness
Pitlochry Montrose
Forfar Hoy Orkney
Arbroath Islands
Dundee Scrabster
Perth
Thurso
St Andrews
Wick
0 kilometres 50
Hawick Jedburgh
North
Alnwick
Sea
Dumfries
Newcastle
Hexham upon Tyne
Castle
Douglas Carlisle
Sunderland
Amsterdam
ENGLAND
Cockermouth Penrith
Whitehaven Keswick
Mileage Chart
Kendal
London
111
Birmingham 10 = Distance in miles
179
Barrow-in- 10 = Distance in kilometres
Furness 150 102
241 164 Cardiff
Lancaster
74 185 228
119 298 367 Dover
372 290 373 442
Blackpool 599 467 600 711 Edinburgh
Preston 389 292 374 466 45
626 470 602 750 72 Glasgow
529 448 530 600 158 167
Manchester 851 721 853 965 254 269 Inverness
184 81 173 257 213 214 371
Colwyn
Liverpool 296 130 278 414 343 344 597 Manchester
Bay
Chester
WA L E S
INTRODUCING SCOTLAND 17
A PORTRAIT OF
SCOTLAND
With such a distinctive national dress, drink, bagpipe music, landscape and
folklore, Scotland has shaped an identity recognizable the world over. It is a
land of contrasts and often possesses a magical quality, whether seen shrouded
in mist or rising majestically above the mirror of a loch.
In a straight line from the far south country’s Central Belt. The Scots cherish
to the far north, the Scottish mainland the differences that set them apart
reaches about 440 km (275 miles), yet from the English, and cling tenaciously
its coastline stretches nearly 10,000 km to the distinctions that differentiate
(6,200 miles). There are 787 major them region by region – their customs,
islands, almost all lying off the northern dialects and the Gaelic language. It
or western coasts. The topography is is perhaps more by their differences
generally extremely mountainous with than similarities that the Scots can
wild heather moorlands in the north be defined but, for all that, they are
and west, pine forests mixed with immensely proud of their nation and its
quality pasture in the middle, fertile separate institutions, such as education
farmland in the east and, in the south, and law. The Scots can be dour but
the rounded, grass-covered hills of equally they can flash with inspiration.
the Lowlands. Picturesque lochs and They delight in self-deprecating humour
rivers are scattered throughout. Most of and continue to honour a long tradition
Scotland’s five million people live in the of hospitality.
A view from Edinburgh Castle with Calton Hill and the Firth of Forth in the distance
The blue waters of Loch Achray in the heart of the Trossachs, north of Glasgow
20 INTRODUCING SCOTLAND
Scotland Equator
•
Iapetus Ocean
England
•
Ancient landmass
Scandinavia
Scotland
Lewisian gneiss is
Glaciation in the last Ice Age one of earth’s oldest
Present-day national boundaries substances, created in
the lower crust three billion
The last Ice Age, which ended years ago and later thrust up
10,000 years ago, was the most and exposed. Hard, infertile
recent chapter in Scotland’s and grey, it forms low
geological history when, like plateaus filled with
Scandinavia, it became glaciated. thousands of small lochs in
the Western Isles.
A PORTRAIT OF SCOTLAND 21
U-shaped valleys in
the Highlands are a
legacy of the last Ice
Age. The weight and
movements of glaciers
broke off spurs,
deepening and
rounding out the
existing river valleys.
The Highland
Boundary Fault runs
from Stonehaven, on
the east coast, to Arran
on the west as an
obvious line of hills.
Serpentine
Typical Features
This cross-section is an idealized
representation (not to scale) of some of the
distinctive geology of the Highlands and
islands of northwest Scotland. The tortuously
indented coastline of this part of the country Devonian sandstone is prevalent in the
is a result of high precipitation in the area Orkney Islands (see pp162–3). In places,
during the last Ice Age which heavily eroded the sea has eroded the horizontally
the layers of ancient rocks, leaving a layered rock into spectacular cliffs and
beautiful and contrasting landscape of stacks, as with the 137-m (450-ft) Old
boulder-strewn glens and deep lochs. Man of Hoy.
22 INTRODUCING SCOTLAND
Duffus Castle
(c.1150) was atypically
made of stone rather than The bailey
enclosed dwellings
wood. Its fine defensive position
and storehouses.
dominates the surrounding flatlands The motte of earth or rock was
north of Elgin. sometimes partially man-made.
Later Tower-house
Though the requirements of defence were being replaced by
those of comfort, the style of the early tower-house remained
popular. By the 17th century wings for accommodation were
being added around the original tower (often creating a
courtyard). The battlements and turrets were kept more for
decorative than defensive reasons.
The priest’s room Original 15th-century Drum Castle, near Aberdeen, a
has secret access. tower-house 13th-century keep with a mansion house
extension from 1619
Sixteenth-century
horizontal extension
Classical Palace
By the 18th century the defensive imperative had passed
and castles were built in the manner of country houses;
the vertical tower-house was rejected in favour of a
horizontal plan (though the building of imitation fortified
buildings continued into the 19th century with the mock-
Baronial trend). Outside influences came from all over
Europe, including Renaissance and Gothic revivals, with
echoes of French châteaux.
Larger windows are due to a Dunrobin Castle (c.1840), Sutherland
lesser need for defence.
Decorative cupola
Balustrades replace
defensive battlements.
Scottish Gardens
Scotland has a great number of diverse and
beautiful gardens. Some are renowned for their
layout, such as Pitmedden, or for particular plants.
Rhododendrons flourish in Scotland’s acidic, peaty
soil, and the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh is
famous for its spectacular, colourful display. Some
gardens have a striking backdrop of lakes or
Inverewe Garden (see p160) is
mountains, while others form the grounds of a
renowned for its lush, exotic,
stately home. Gulf Stream gardens like Inverewe subtropical flora. Ferns, lilies, giant
offer visitors a rare chance to view exotic, subtropical forget-me-nots and rare palms are
flora at a northern latitude. just some of the 2,500 species that
thrive in the mild climate.
The gardens shown here are
some of Scotland’s finest.
The Rhododendron
These examples illustrate three of the
900 rhododendron varieties. The first is
tropical, grown under glass in Scotland;
the second is evergreen; the third is an
azalea, which used to be considered a
separate species. Rhododendrons also fall
into scaly-leaved and non-scaly groups. Macgregoriae Augustini Medway
A PORTRAIT OF SCOTLAND 27
0 miles 50
A flywheel
The pneumatic stored energy
tyre (tire) (John Piston rod so that the
Dunlop, 1887), was engine ran
originally patented smoothly.
by RW Thomson
and then
developed by
Dunlop for use on
bicycles and,
later, cars.
Spray nozzle
Steam generator
The telephone
The thermos flask (Sir (Alexander Graham
James Dewar, 1892) Bell, 1876) was the
was first designed as a scientific break-
vacuum for storing through that
low-temperature revolutionized the
gases. The flask was way the world
later mass-produced as communicated,
the thermos, for introducing the
maintaining the transmission of
temperature of hot sound by electricity.
and cold drinks.
The Mackenzies
received much of
the lands of Kintail
(see p155) from
David II in 1362.
Clan Chief
The chief was the clan’s patriarch, judge and
leader in war, commanding absolute loyalty
from his clansmen who gave military service
in return for his protection. The chief sum- The Campbells
moned his clan to do battle by sending a were a widely feared
runner across his land clan who fought the
bearing a burning Bonnet
Jacobites in 1746
with eagle
cross. (see p134).
feathers,
clan crest
and plant
badge.
Dirk
Sporran,
or pouch,
made of
badger’s
skin.
The Sinclairs
came from France Plant Badges
in the 11th
century and Each clan had a plant
became Earls of associated with its territory.
Caithness in 1455. It was worn on the bonnet,
especially on the day
of battle.
Clan Territories
The territories of 10 major clans The Douglas clan
are marked here with their clan was prominent in
crests and tartan. The patterns Scottish history, Cotton grass was worn by the
shown are modern versions of though its origin is Clan Henderson.
original tartan designs. unknown.
The Bagpipes
Bagpipes have been the traditional
sound of the Highlands for many
centuries and are thought to have been
introduced to Britain by the Romans.
After the Battle of Culloden in 1746 they
were banned for 11 years, along with
Highland dress, for inspiring the
Highlanders to rebel against English rule.
The pipes have now become one of the
most recognized emblems of Scotland.
Scotch Whisky
Whisky is to the Scots what champagne is to the French,
and a visit to Scotland would not be complete without
sampling this fiery, heart-warming spirit. All malt whiskies
are produced using much the same process, but the
environment, maturity and storage of the whisky have
such a strong bearing on its character that every one is a
different experience. There is no “best” malt whisky – some
are suited to drinking at bedtime, others as an aperitif. All A 1920s steam wagon transporting
the distilleries named below produce highly rated single The Glenlivet to the nearby railways
malt Scotch whiskies, a title that is revered by true
whisky connoisseurs. Glenmorangie is the
biggest-selling single
Talisker is a highly malt in Scotland, with a
distinctive malt light, flowery taste and
with an extremely strong perfume.
hot, peppery,
powerful flavour Highland
that is guaranteed Park
to warm the toes. Lochnagar is reputed to
have been a favourite
Pulteney with Queen Victoria,
who visited this distillery
S
ND
See
inset
Glen Ord
IDE
N
YS
DS
HL R N
ER
Dalwhinnie Lochnagar
NO
I S L A N
thought to be the
Blair Athol Fettercairn
best of the whisky- Tobermory Edradour
producing islands. Glencadam
Aberfeldy
HL RN
DS
Oban CENTRAL
AN
HIG ESTE
D S
HIGHLANDS
Speyside Whiskies Edradour is the
W
Tullibardine
smallest distillery in
The region of Speyside Auchentoshan Edinburgh Scotland but it suc-
(see p148), where barley is ISLAY
Lagavulin Glasgow Glenkinchie ceeds in producing
widely grown, is the setting for CAMPBEL- a deliciously minty,
over half of Scotland’s malt TOWN creamy whisky.
whisky distilleries. Glen Springbank LO W L A N D S
Scotia
Malt Regions
Single malts vary
according to regional
Bladnoch
Glen Moray Linkwood differences in the peat
Glen Elgin
and stream water used.
Glenlossie The Macallan is This map illustrates the
Speyburn widely acknowledged divisions of the tradi-
Glen Rothes as being the “Rolls
tional whisky-distilling
Macallan Royce of single malts”.
regions in Scotland. Each
Glendfiddich Aged in sherry casks,
Glenfarclas it has a full flavour. whisky has subtle but
Mortlach recognizable regional
Cragganmore
flavour characteristics.
The Glenlivet
Balmenach
The Glenlivet is the most
Tamnavulin Key
famous of the Speyside
malts, distilled since 1880. Single malt distilleries
A PORTRAIT OF SCOTLAND 37
Ullapool
Poolewe
Gairloch Braemore
Torridon
Shieldaig
Kyle of
Lochalsh
Elgin
Inverness
Aberdeen
St Andrews (see p127) and the historic
fishing villages of East Fife can be reached
Braemar from Edinburgh over the Forth Bridge, and
back via the hunting palace of the Stuart
kings at Falkland (see p128).
Blairgowrie
A tour of Walter
Scott’s Country
Crieff Perth takes in the River
St Andrews Tweed Valley,
Callander Falkland with its attractive
hills, market
Stirling towns and an
Kirkcaldy
arboretum at
Dawyck.
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Peebles
Coldstream
Melrose Abbey is one of the highlights of a tour
Melrose Kelso taking in attractive Border towns, the famous
Border Abbeys and Scott’s View – one of the
finest viewpoints in southern Scotland. More
details of part of this tour are on page 89.
Dumfries
Stirling, with its castle,
is the base from which to
explore the high
mountains of Breadal-
bane. The route passes
From Glasgow, this route through Callander, past
includes Loch Lomond, Rob Roy’s grave and Loch
Lochearnhead and
Earn. It then climbs over
Balquhidder. Just north of
Callander, it turns west into a mountain pass down
the Trossachs. Heading back to Glen Lyon, one of the
via Drymen, there is access most beautiful glens, and
to Loch Lomond. on through Crieff.
40 INTRODUCING SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND THROUGH
THE YEAR
Most visitors come to Scotland between Castle, the British Royal Family’s Scottish
May and August, when they enjoy the residence). Out of season, a good winter
best weather, long hours of daylight and the snowfall in the Highlands provides an
chance to sample world-class events such as opportunity for snowboarding or skiing.
the Edinburgh International Festival or the Edinburgh’s organized celebration at New
Glasgow International Jazz Festival. The Year – known locally as Hogmanay – has
countryside lures tourists and Scots alike, seen a rise in visitor numbers. During most
and at the height of summer, it gets very weeks of the year, but especially in the
busy in areas such as Loch Ness (monster summer, a festival is held somewhere
spotting) or Royal Deeside (site of Balmoral across the country.
March
Inverness Music Festival (early
Mar). Over 1,000 entrants
battle it out in a week-long
Gaelic music festival (www.
invernessmusicfestival.org).
MV Festival (third weekend),
Aviemore. Daytime comedy,
music and après-ski events
at the Cairngorm ski area
and evening street parades in
Aviemore (www.mvfestival.com). Horses racing at the Scottish Grand National, Ayr Racecourse
SCOTLAND THROUGH THE YEAR 41
Walker surveying the winter landscape in the Mamores in the Scottish Highlands
INTRODUCING SCOTLAND 45
THE HISTORY
OF SCOTLAND
Scotland has been torn apart by religion and internal politics, coveted by
a richer and more powerful neighbour and wooed and punished for
400 years as the vital partner in the power struggles between England,
France and Spain. She has risen and fallen through the ages, acquiring
romance from tragedy, producing genius out of poverty and demonstrating
an irrepressible spirit.
“They spend all their time in wars, and conquered Caledonia because their
when there is no war, they fight one resources were stretched too thin.
another” is a description of the Scots Instead, they built Hadrian’s Wall from
written in about 1500. For the visitor, Wallsend on the east coast to Bowness-
the chief delight in this turbulent on-Solway in the west, and later the
history is that so much is still tangible Antonine Wall, a shorter wall further
and visible. north, thereby endeavouring to shut
The earliest settlers in the country are out the Caledonians. Despite the
believed to have been Celtic-Iberians, country’s relative isolation from the rest
who worked their way north along the of Britain, however, it is believed that
coast from the Mediterranean, and the original form of the Scottish kilt
arrived in Scotland about 8,000 years ago. derived from the Roman tunic, or toga.
Around 2000 BC their descendants By AD 400 the Romans had abandoned
erected majestic standing stones, which their northern outposts, and Scotland
are found all over the country. The was divided between four races,
layout of those at Callanish in the each with its own king. These were
Western Isles shows an advanced the predominant Picts, the Britons and
knowledge of astronomy. These people Angles in the south, and the smallest
also built underground round-houses group – the Scots – who originally
and an abundance of forts, indicating came from Ireland and occupied the
that they were no strangers to invasion southwest of the country.
and warfare. In the late 4th century AD a Scot,
In AD 82 the Romans penetrated deep St Ninian, travelled to Rome and,
into “ Caledonia”, as they called the upon his return, built a church at
country, and Tacitus recorded vic tories Whithorn, thereby introducing
against the Picts (the “painted people”) Christianity to “Dalriada”, the Kingdom
and other tribes. Yet the Romans never of the Scots.
David I tried to impose this system in the man, lost. William Wallace rose and led a
north, but the region remained out of his revolt that rekindled hope until his capture
control and, indeed, had its own “kings” – the and execution six years later. His cause was
Lords of the Isles. In the Highlands a taken up by Robert the Bruce who,
different social structure based on against all odds, won support and
kinship – that of families, or clans – raised an army that changed the
had evolved. The chief was a course of history by winning a
patriarch who held land, not decisive victory over the English at
privately, but on behalf of his the Battle of Bannockburn, near
people. It was an inheritable Stirling, on 23 June 1314.
position, but the chief remained Confronted by the largest English
accountable to the clan and could The lion of Scotland, army to cross the border, the Scots
be removed by common consent, dating from 1222 were outnumbered three to one,
unlike the feudal landlords whose and their arms were inferior. Yet
power was vested through legal title to the Bruce had chosen his ground and his strategy
land. This subtle difference was mirrored on carefully and, despite the enemy’s skilful
a national level – in England, the monarch bowmen and heavy cavalry, the Scots
was the King of England; in Scotland, he gained the victory they so badly needed.
was known as the King of Scots. Scotland had won back its independence,
but it was not until 1329 that its sovereign
The Wars of Independence and the status was recognized and secured by a
Battle of Bannockburn Papal bull (six days after Bruce had died).
In 1222 the lion of Scotland’s coat of arms Even so, the wars with England would
first appeared on the great seal of Alexander continue for another 300 years.
II. This was during a relatively
peaceful interlude among frequent
periods of turmoil when it seemed
that Scotland was in danger of
breaking apart.
When Alexander III’s infant
daughter died in 1290, there was
no heir to the throne. Edward I of
England installed a puppet king
and, in 1296, led a devastating
invasion that carried off the Stone
of Destiny – the Scots’ coronation
throne – and earned him the title
“Hammer of the Scots”. Scotland
was crushed and, but for one Robert the Bruce in combat at the Battle of Bannockburn (1314)
1124–53 David I
1296 Edward I takes Stone of 1320 Declaration of Arbroath sent to
imposes Norman
feudal system. A Destiny from Scone Abbey the Pope – an eloquent appeal for
clan system prevails to Westminster recognition of Scottish independence
in Highlands and sovereignty
The Stuarts
In 1371 began the long dynasty of the
House of Stuart, a family distinguished by
intelligence and flair but prone to tragedy.
James I introduced wide legal reforms and
approved the first university. James III won
Orkney and Shetland from King Christian of
Denmark and Norway through marriage to
his daughter. James IV ended his illustrious
reign with uncharacteristic misjudgement
at the Battle of Flodden, in which 10,000
Scots died. But the most famous of the
Stuarts was Mary, Queen of Scots (1542–87)
who acceded to the throne as an infant. Woodcut of Protestant martyr George Wishart being burned at the
Raised in France, Mary was beautiful, stake in 1546
clever, gentle and spirited, but her reign was
destined to be difficult. She was a Catholic The Reformation
in a country changing to Protestantism, Until Mary’s reign, Scotland’s national religion,
and a threat to her cousin, Elizabeth I, like the rest of Europe, was the Church of
whose claim to the English throne was Rome. It had become extremely rich and
precarious. Had Mary married wisely she powerful and, in many ways, self-serving
might have ruled successfully, but her and divorced from the people. When Martin
husbands alienated her potential supporters. Luther sparked the Reformation in Germany
Mary returned to Scotland aged 18, in 1517, the ripples of Protestantism spread. In
already a widow and Dowager Queen of Scotland the most vociferous leader was
France, and spent just six turbulent years as the firebrand preacher John Knox (see p62),
Scotland’s queen. She married again who fearlessly denounced Mary.
and, following the public scandal of There followed a long period of
her secretary’s murder by her second religious tension and strife. At first
husband and his subsequent murder, the main contentions were between
she married for a third time. Roman Catholics and Protestants.
However, her choice was unac- As Catholicism was purged, albeit
ceptable to both the public and with revivals and impregnable
the church. She was deposed Mary, Queen of Scots, of the strongholds in the Highlands
and held captive, making a House of Stuart and islands, the conflicts shifted
daring escape from an island to Presbyterians versus Episco-
castle to England, only to be imprisoned palians. The differences lay in the structures
there for 18 years and then finally executed of the churches and in their forms of worship.
on the orders of her cousin, Elizabeth. The feuds blazed and spluttered for 150 years.
Flodden field
1603 Union of the Crowns. James VI of Scotland
banner
becomes James I of England and moves to London
MacDonald
1642 Civil 1692 Massacre of Glencoe – a
shield
war in Campbell-led force murders its 1745–6 Jacobite rising. Bonnie Prince
England hosts, the MacDonalds, as an Charlie tries to recover throne, but loses
official punitive example the Battle of Culloden and flees
Cogs Piston popular and sporting estates all the rage for
hunting deer, the inland glens were as empty
Boiler as they are today.
Scotland at a Glance
Stretching from the rich farmlands of the Borders to a
chain of isles only a few degrees south of the Arctic Circle,
the Scottish landscape has a diversity without parallel in
Britain. The vibrant cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh offer
numerous attractions. The northeast is an area rich
in wildlife, and as you travel northwest, the land
becomes more mountainous and its archaeological Stornoway
treasures more numerous. In the far northwest, in
the Western Isles, Scotland’s earliest relics stand
upon some of the oldest rock on earth.
Ullapool
Oban
ARGYLL
AND BUTE
GLASGOW
(See pp98–113)
DUMFRIES
The Burrell Collection AND
(see pp108–9), on the G A L LO W AY
southern outskirts of Stranraer
Glasgow, is a museum of
some of the city’s greatest
art treasures. It is housed
in a spacious, glass building
opened in 1983.
SHETLAND
ISLANDS
Lerwick
ORKNEY
ISLANDS
Kirkwall
The Cairngorms (see pp144–5) cover an area
Dornoch
prized for its beauty and diversity of wildlife, though
there are also many historical relics to be found,
such as this early 18th-century arch at Carrbridge.
Fraserburgh
Elgin
Inverness
M O R AY
ANGUS
PERTH AND
KINROSS Dundee
Perth
Royal Deeside (see pp148–9) in the Grampians
FIFE has been associated with British royalty since
Queen Victoria bought Balmoral Castle in 1852.
CENTRAL SCOTLAND
(See pp114–29)
STIRLING
Dunbar
EDINBURGH
(See pp56–83)
0 kilometres 50
Motherwell
0 miles 50
Galashiels
SOUTHERN SCOTLAND
(See pp84–97)
SCOTTISH
BORDERS
Dumfries
EDINBURGH
The historic status of Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is
beyond question, with ancient buildings scattered across the
city, and the seat of Scotland’s Parliament lying close to the
royal residence of the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The range of
historical and artistic attractions draws visitors from all over
the world.
Castle Rock in Edinburgh has been Georgian New Town to the north in the
occupied since around 1,000 BC in the late 1700s gave the wealthy an escape
Bronze Age, which is no surprise given its route, but even today Edinburgh has a
strategic views over the Firth of Forth. The reputation for social extremes. It has major
Castle itself houses the city’s oldest building, law courts, is second only to London as
St Margaret’s Chapel, dating from the 11th a financial centre in the British Isles and
century. A few years after it was built, houses the Scottish Parliament. Bankers
Margaret’s son, King David I, founded and lawyers form the city’s establishment,
Holyrood Abbey a mile to the east. The town and the most ambitious architectural
that grew along the route between these developments have been for financial
buildings, the “Royal Mile”, became a sector companies. Yet outlying housing
popular residence of kings, although not estates, built after World War II, still have
until the reign of James IV (1488–1513) did echoes of the Old Town poverty.
Edinburgh gain the status of Scotland’s Edinburgh is best known today as a
capital. James built the Palace of major tourist centre. There are wonderful
Holyroodhouse as a royal residence in 1498 museums and galleries to visit, and the
and made the city an administrative centre. city enjoys a widely renowned nightlife. At
Overcrowding made the Old Town a the height of the International Festival, in
dirty and difficult place to live, and threw August, it is estimated that the population
rich and poor together. The construction of a doubles from 400,000 to 800,000.
Exploring Edinburgh
The centre of Edinburgh is divided neatly in
half by Princes Street, the principal shopping
area. To the south lies the Old Town, site of the
ancient city, which grew along the route of the
Royal Mile, from the Castle Rock in the west to the
Palace of Holyroodhouse in the east. At the end
of the 18th century, building for the New Town
started to the north of Princes Street. The area is
still viewed today as a world-class example of
Georgian urban architecture, with its elegant
façades and broad streets. Princes Street has lots
to offer, including shopping, art galleries, the North Bridge, opened in 1772 – the main route connecting
towering Scott Monument and the landmark the Old and New Towns
Balmoral Hotel clock tower, as well as the city’s
main train station, Waverley.
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EDINBURGH 59
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ET
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Writer’s Museum
This 17th-century
house is now a
museum of the
The Hub is the lives and works of
headquarters of the writers Burns, Scott
Edinburgh Festival. and Stevenson.
The Signet Library has St Giles Cathedral contains the beautiful The City Chambers were
one of the city’s most Thistle Chapel, with a bagpiping angel designed by John Adam
lavish interiors. Visits can on its arched entrance. in the 1750s.
be made following a
written application. The Heart of Midlothian is
an arrangement of granite
cobblestones on the former
site of the city jail.
BA
NK
EET
STR
ST
G H
HI
RE
ET
IV
GE RID
B
OR
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National Museum
G
of Scotland,
Greyfriars Bobby
E Writers’ Museum in 1707. It is worth seeing for the with its emphasis on individual
Lady Stair’s Close. Tel (0131) 529 4901. spectacle of its many gowned worship freed from the author-
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (Aug: also and wigged advocates as well ity of bishops. A tablet marks
noon–5pm Sun). ∑ edinburgh as the stained-glass window in the place where Jenny Geddes,
museums.org.uk the Great Hall, commemorating a local market stallholder,
This fine Old Town mansion was the inauguration of the Court of scored a victory for the Coven-
built in 1622. In the 1720s it was Session by King James V in 1532. anters in 1637 by hurling her
acquired by Elizabeth, Dowager stool at a preacher as he read
Countess of Stair, and has since R St Giles Cathedral from an English prayer book.
been called Lady Stair’s House. Royal Mile. Tel (0131) 225 9442. St Giles’s Gothic exterior has a
Its official title reflects its role as Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, 15th-century tower, the only part
a museum of memorabilia from 9am–5pm Sat, 1–5pm Sun. Oct–Apr: to escape heavy renovation in
Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. 8 the 1800s. Inside, the Thistle
and Robert Louis Stevenson. ∑ stgilescathedral.org.uk Chapel, with its rib-
Properly known as the vaulted ceiling and
P Parliament House High Kirk (church) of carved heraldic can-
Parliament Sq, High St. Tel (0131) 225 Edinburgh, St Giles is opies, honours the
2595. Open 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. popularly known as knights of the Most
7 limited. a cathedral. Though Ancient and Most
This majestic, Italianate building it was twice the seat Noble Order of the
was constructed in the 1630s of a bishop in the Thistle. The royal pew
for the Scottish Parliament. It 17th century, it was in the Preston Aisle
has been home to the Court of from here that John is used by Queen
Session and the High Court since Knox directed the Bagpiping angel from the Elizabeth II when
the Union of Parliaments (see p49) Scottish Reformation, entrance of the cathedral staying in Edinburgh.
62 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
HIGH STREE T
S
O
U ST
T R
H E
B ET
R
ID
G
E
The Tron Kirk
was built in 1630 for the
The Mercat Cross marks the Presbyterians who left
city centre. It was here that St Giles Cathedral when it
Bonnie Prince Charlie (see p157) came under the control of
proclaimed his father king in 1745. the Bishop of Edinburgh.
Museum of Edinburgh
Canongate Tolbooth
ATE
ONG
CAN
Museum of Childhood
Though created as a
Moubray House was to be museum for adults by a city
the signing place of the Act councillor who was known
of Union in 1707, until a mob to dislike children, this lively
forced the authorities to retreat musem now attracts flocks
to another venue. of young visitors.
2 Edinburgh Castle
Standing upon the basalt core of an extinct volcano,
Edinburgh Castle is an assemblage of buildings dating
from the 12th to the 20th century, reflecting its changing
role as fortress, royal palace, military garrison and state
prison. Though there is evidence of Bronze Age occupation
of the site, the original fortress was built by the 6th-century
Northumbrian king, Edwin, from whom the city takes its
name. The castle was a favourite royal residence until the
Union of the Crowns (see p49) in 1603, after which the king The Honours of Scotland
resided in England. After the Union of Parliaments in 1707, The Crown was restyled by James V
of Scotland in 1540.
the Scottish regalia were walled up in the Palace for over a
hundred years. The Palace is now the zealous possessor
of the so-called Stone of Destiny, a relic of ancient
Scottish kings which was seized by the English
and not returned to Scotland until 1996.
Governor’s House
Complete with Flemish-style
crow-stepped gables, this
building was constructed for
the governor in 1742 and now
serves as the Officers’ Mess for
the castle garrison.
Vaults
Mons Meg
This French graffiti, dating from 1780, Positioned outside St Margaret’s Chapel, this siege gun (or
recalls the many prisoners who were bombard) was made in Belgium in 1449 for the Duke of
held in the vaults during the wars with Burgundy, who gave it to his nephew, James II of Scotland.
France in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was used by James against the Douglas family in their
stronghold of Threave Castle (see p93) on the Dee in 1455,
and later by James IV against
KEY Norham Castle in England.
After exploding during a
1 Military Prison
salute to the Duke of York
2 The Half Moon Battery was built in 1682, it was kept in the
in the 1570s as a platform for the Tower of London until it was
artillery defending the eastern wing returned to Edinburgh in 1829,
of the castle. at Sir Walter Scott’s request.
3 The Esplanade is the location of
the Military Tattoo (see p83).
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Castle Hill.
Tel (0131) 225 9846.
Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6pm
daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm
daily (last admission: 45 mins
before closing). & 7 8 =
0-
∑ edinburghcastle.gov.uk
Argyle Battery
These battlements offer a panoramic view
north over Princes Street to the city’s New
Town, the Firth of Forth and Fife.
. Palace
Mary, Queen of Scots,
gave birth to James VI
in this 15th-century
palace, where the
Stone of Destiny and
Crown Jewels are
displayed.
Entrance Royal Mile
St Margaret’s
Chapel
This stained glass
window depicts
Malcolm III’s saintly
queen, to whom the
chapel is dedicated.
Probably built by her
. Great Hall son, David I, in the
With its restored open-timber roof, the hall early 12th century,
dates from the 15th century and was the the chapel is the
meeting place of the Scottish Parliament castle’s oldest
until 1639. existing building.
66 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
E
C
Leith is a small
A
river running
R AY PL
through a
delightful gorge
below Dean
MO
Bridge. There is
a riverside
walkway to
Dean Bridge Stockbridge.
This was built in 1829 to the design of Thomas
Telford. It gives views down to the Water of
Leith and upstream to the weirs and old mill
buildings of Dean Village. E
C
A
SLIE PL
ST GR
GE
0 yards 100
RA
RE
SCENT
Key
Suggested route Q
U
E
E
N
S
F
E
R
R
New Town Architects Y
S
T
The driving force behind the creation of the R
E
New Town was George Drummond (1687– E
T
1766), the city’s Provost, or Mayor. James
Craig (1744–95) won the overall design
competition in 1766. Robert Adam (1728–
92) introduced Classical ornamentation to
Charlotte Square. Robert Reid (1774–1856)
designed Heriot Row and Great King Street, No. 14 was the
and William Playfair (1790–1857) designed residence of
Royal Circus. The monumental development judge and
of the Moray Estate was the work of James diarist Lord
Gillespie Graham (1776–1855). Robert Adam Cockburn from
1813 to 1843.
For hotels and restaurants see pp172–3 and pp181–3
EDINBURGH 69
OW
T R
AY PLA
R IO
D A R N AWAY HE
ST
WE
MY
C
E
SS
FO
York Place
PL
RE
AC
ET
ST
S TRE
E
ST
EEN
QU
RE
ET
. Charlotte Square
CH
S
town houses for the most successful
L
RT E S
ARE
SQU
TE
LOT
CH
AR
CH
AR
HO
SO OTTE
L
UT
PE
EET
H
STR
ES
STR
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ST
P
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A view from Edinburgh Castle across the towers and spires of the city to Calton Hill in the distance
the murder of her trusted Italian e Scottish been extinct for 350 million
secretary, David Rizzio, author- Parliament years. The area has been a royal
ized by her jealous husband, hunting ground since at least
Lord Darnley. She was six Holyrood. Tel 0131 348 5200. the time of King David I, who
months pregnant when she Open 10am–5:30pm Mon, Fri & Sat, died in 1153, and a royal park
9am–6:30pm Tue–Thu. 8 7 -
witnessed the murder, during since the 16th century.
∑ scottish.parliament.uk
which Rizzio’s body was pierced The name Holyrood, which
“with fifty-six wounds”. Following decades of Scottish means “holy cross”, comes from
In the early stages of calls for more political an episode in the life of David I
the Jacobite uprising of self-determination, a 1997 when, in 1128, he was knocked
1745 (see p49), the last referendum on the from his horse by a stag while
of the pretenders to issue of whether or out hunting. Legend has it that
the British throne, not to have a Scottish a cross appeared miraculously
Charles Edward Parliament, with in his hands to ward off the
Stuart (Bonnie Prince some powers animal and, in thanksgiving, the
Charlie) held court devolved from the king founded the Abbey of the
at Holyroodhouse, UK Parliament in Holy Cross, Holyrood Abbey. The
dazzling Edinburgh London, resulted in name Arthur’s Seat is probably
society with his a majority “yes” vote a corruption of Archer’s Seat, a
magnificent parties. (see p51). Designed more prosaic explanation for
Tours of the State by the late Enric the name than any link with
and Historic apart- Miralles, known for the legendary King Arthur.
ments are given his work on buildings The park has three small
throughout the day James V’s arms, at the 1992 Barcelona lochs. St Margaret’s near the
from April to October Holyroodhouse Olympics, the Palace is the most romantic,
or take an audio tour; Parliament building with its resident swans and
both are included in the price of was opened in October 2004 position under the ruins of
your ticket. The Queen’s Gallery by Queen Elizabeth II. It’s well St Anthony’s Chapel. Dunsapie
displays changing exhibitions worth taking one of the regular Loch is the highest, sitting 112 m
from the Royal Collection. tours of this architecturally (367 ft) above sea level under
exciting public building. Arthur’s Seat. Duddingston
Loch, on the south side of the
w Our Dynamic
park, is home to a large number
Earth r Holyrood Park of wildfowl.
Holyrood Rd. Tel (0131) 550 7800. and Arthur’s Seat The Salisbury Crags are
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm daily Main access via Holyrood Park Rd, among the park’s most striking
(to 6pm Jul & Aug); Nov–Mar: 10am– Holyrood Rd and Meadowbank features. Their dramatic profile,
5:30pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7 - Terrace. along with that of Arthur’s
∑ dynamicearth.co.uk Seat, can be seen from many
Holyrood Park, adjacent to the kilometres away. The Crags
Our dynamic earth is a Palace of Holyroodhouse, covers form a parabola of red cliffs
permanent exhibition about over 2.6 sq km (1 sq mile) that sweep round and up from
the planet. Visitors are taken of varying terrain, topped by the Palace of Holyroodhouse,
on a journey from the earth’s a rugged 250-m (820-ft) hill. above a steep supporting
volcanic beginnings to the first Known as Arthur’s Seat, the hillside. A rough track, called the
appearance of life. Further hill is actually a volcano that has Radical Road, follows their base.
displays concentrate on the
world’s climatic zones and
dramatic natural phenomena
such as tidal waves and
earthquakes. State-of-the-art
lighting and interactive tech-
niques produce the special
effects for 90 minutes of
learning and entertainment.
The exhibition building is
fronted by a 1,000-seat stone
amphitheatre designed by
Sir Michael Hopkins, and it
incorporates a translucent tented
roof. Situated beneath Salisbury
Crags, the modern lines of Our
Dynamic Earth contrast sharply
with the natural landscape. Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags, looming above the city
72 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
1 02
0
A7
A7
A7 Penicuik
0 miles 10 there has been a renaissance
in recent years in the form
of conversions of warehouse
KEY Sights at a Glance buildings to offices, residences
Urban area 1 Royal Botanic Garden and, most notably, restaurants
Airport 2 Leith and bars. The Shore and Dock
Intercity train line 3 Dean Village
Place now has Edinburgh’s most
4 Forth Bridges
dense concentration of seafood
Motorway (highway)
bistros and varied restaurants
Major road 5 Hopetoun House
(see pp182–3).
6 Linlithgow Palace
Minor road The tourist attractions have
7 Haddington
been further boosted by the
8 East Lothian Coast
presence of the former British
Royal Yacht Britannia, which
Edinburgh and into the Firth of is on display in Leith’s Ocean
Forth at Leith). The garden is a Terminal.
descendant of a Physic Garden
near Holyroodhouse that was g Royal Yacht Britannia
created by two doctors in 1670. Ocean Terminal, Leith Docks. Tel
It was moved to its present (0131) 555 5566. Open daily. & 7
location in 1820, and since then 0 ∑ royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
has been progressively enlarged
and developed. Public access is
from the east (well served by
buses) and from the west (offer-
A specimen from the Palm House in the ing better car parking). The gar-
city’s Royal Botanic Garden den benefits from a hill site, giving
southerly views across the city.
1 Royal Botanic There is a rock garden in the
Garden southeast corner and an indoor
exhibition and interpretation
Inverleith Row. Tel (0131) 552 7171. display in the northeast corner.
@ Open Feb & Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
There are also extensive
Mar–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Jan:
greenhouses in traditional and
10am–4pm daily. 7 0 - 8
∑ rbge.org.uk
modern architectural styles,
offering fascinating hideaways
This magnificent garden lies a on rainy days. Be sure not to
short way to the north of the miss the alpine display to the
New Town, across the Water of northwest of the greenhouses,
Leith (a river that runs from the or the beautiful and fragrant The British Royal Yacht Britannia, berthed
Pentland Hills down through rhododendron walk. at Leith’s Ocean Terminal
For hotels and restaurants see pp172–3 and pp181–3
FURTHER AFIELD 73
4 Forth Bridges
Lothian. 3 @ Dalmeny,
Inverkeithing.
J Muirfield
Gullane
Key
Urban area
Route
Major road
0 kilometres 2 Minor road
0 miles 1 Train line
SHOPPING IN EDINBURGH
Despite the growth of new out-of-town marvellous institution that has been
malls, Princes Street remains one of the in business for over 150 years. But there
top 12 retail centres in the British Isles. are shopping attractions away from
With the ancient Castle rising above the Princes Street, too, including Scotland’s
gardens along the street’s south side, it best delicatessen (Valvona & Crolla),
is a unique and picturesque place to shop. several excellent wine merchants,
Although many familiar chain stores can a selection of Highland clothing
be found here, the capital also boasts its outfitters and an appealing collection
very own department store, Jenners, a of specialist stores.
Department Stores
Princes Street has several good
department stores, with House
of Fraser at the west end being
one of the best. Located opposite
the Scott Monument, is Jenners.
Founded on a different site in
the late 1830s, it has gained a
reputation as Edinburgh’s top
store. During the Christmas
season it is famed for its central
atrium housing a Christmas
tree. John Lewis, belonging to
a nationwide chain of stores, is
in a contemporary building on
Leith Street. The famous Harvey
Nichols is on St Andrew Square. Traditional Highland dress and accessories, for sale on the Royal Mile
Brooks is the most distin- Art, Design and Antiques Architectural Salvage sells
guished wine and spirit Original artworks are on sale at everything from Victorian
merchant in the city centre, a variety of galleries in the city. baths to staircases and doors.
and Henderson Wines has an The Scottish Gallery in the New
extensive selection of wines, Town has everything from jewel-
beers and malts. lery for under £100, to pieces by
well-known Scottish artists sold
at £10,000 or more. The prices
Books and Newspapers at the Printmakers Workshop
The high-street Waterstone’s are more affordable, with an
chain has a store on Princes innovative range of limited-
Street with a fine coffee shop, edition prints for sale, and
and another branch on George the Collective Gallery offers
Street nearby. There are still some experimental works. Inhouse
small, friendly independent has some remarkable designer
bookshops, such as second- furniture. Browsers looking for
hand specialists Edinburgh antiques should try Victoria
Books. The International Street, St Stephen’s Street,
Newsagents offers a good the Grassmarket and Causeway-
selection of foreign news- side. For large-scale fixtures Intricately patterned Edinburgh Crystal,
papers and magazines. and fittings, the Holyrood a popular souvenir
DIRECTORY
Department Jane Davidson Henderson Wines Books and
Stores 52 Thistle St, EH2 1EN. 109 Comiston Rd, Newspapers
Tel (0131) 225 3280. EH10 6AQ.
Harvey Nichols Tel (0131) 447 8580. Edinburgh Books
Kinloch Anderson
30–34 St Andrew Sq, 145–147 West Port,
Commercial St, Iain Mellis
EH2 2AD. EH3 9DP.
EH6 6EY. 30a Victoria St,
Tel (0131) 524 8388. Tel (0131) 555 1390. Tel (0131) 229 4431.
EH1 2JW.
House of Fraser Phase Eight Tel (0131) 226 6215. The International
145 Princes St, EH2 4YZ. 47b George St, EH2 2HT. Newsagents
Tel (0844) 800 3724.
Justerini & Brooks
Tel (0131) 226 4009. 351 High St, EH1 1PW.
14 Alva St,
Jenners Ragamuffin EH2 4QG. Tel (0131) 225 4827.
48 Princes St, EH2 2YJ. 278 Canongate, EH8 8AA. Tel (0131) 226 4202. Waterstone’s
Tel (0844) 800 3725. Tel (0131) 557 6007. 128 Princes St, EH2 4AD.
MacSweens
John Lewis Schuh Dryden Rd, Bilston Glen, Tel (0843) 290 8313.
69 St James Centre, EH1 6/6a Frederick St, Loanhead, EH20 9LZ.
3SP. Tel (0871) 432 1335. EH2 2HB. Tel (0131) 440 2555. Art, Design and
Tel (0131) 220 0290. Antiques
Oddbins
Clothing Thomas Pink Elm Row, Collective Gallery
32 Castle St, EH2 3HT.
Austin Reed 94–96 Brunswick St, 38 Calton Hill, EH7 5AA.
Tel (0131) 225 4264.
39 George St, EH2 2HN. EH7 5HN. Tel (0131) 556 1264.
Tel (0131) 225 6703. Whistles Tel (0131) 556 4075.
97 George St, EH2 3ES. Holyrood
Corniche Peter Green Architectural Salvage
Tel (0131) 226 4398.
37 Warrender Park Rd, 146 Duddingston Rd
2 Jeffrey St, EH1 1DT.
Food and Drink EH9 1HJ. West, EH16 4AP.
Tel (0131) 556 3707.
Tel (0131) 229 5925.
Tel (0131) 661 9305.
Cruise Cadenheads
172 Canongate, Real Foods
94 George St, EH2 3DF. Inhouse
EH8 8BN. 37 Broughton St,
Tel (0131) 226 3524. 28 Howe St, EH3 6TG.
Tel (0131) 556 5864. EH1 3JU.
Tel (0131) 225 2888.
Graham Tiso Tel (0131) 557 1911.
Coco Chocolate Printmakers
41 Commercial St, EH6 Valvona & Crolla
174 Bruntsfield Place,
6JD. Tel (0131) 554 0804. 19 Elm Row, EH7 4AA. Workshop
EH10 4ER.
123–125 Rose St, EH2 Tel (0131) 556 6066. 23 Union St, EH1 3LR.
Tel (0131) 228 4526.
3DT. Tel (0131) 225 9486. Tel (0131) 557 2479.
Glass & Thompson Villeneuve Wines
Hector Russell 2 Dundas St, 49a Broughton St, The Scottish Gallery
137–141 High St, EH1 EH3 6HZ. EH1 3RJ. 16 Dundas St, EH3 6HZ.
1SG. Tel (0131) 558 1254. Tel (0131) 557 0909. Tel (0131) 558 8441. Tel (0131) 558 1200.
78 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
What to Buy
Scotland offers a wide range of goods and souvenirs to tempt its visitors.
Most food and drink items can be found in Edinburgh’s food stores and off-
licences (liquor stores that also stock tobacco). A number of specialist shops
in the city sell more unusual Scottish crafts and products, from handcrafted
jewellery to clothing, such as tartan kilts and knitwear. Certain areas of
Scotland specialize in particular crafts – Orkney is famed for its jewellery,
Caithness and Edinburgh for their beautifully engraved glassware.
Packaged Foods
Food is a popular and accessible form of souvenir or gift to
purchase during a visit to Scotland. Teatime is a favourite
meal with the Scottish, offering such treats as Dundee cake,
butter shortbread, Abernethy biscuits, Scotch pancakes and
parlies (ginger cookies). Oatcakes are the traditional
accompaniment to cheese in Scotland,
although they also complement pâté and
sweet toppings such as jam or honey. Vegetarian haggis Original haggis
They are also delicious toasted and served
Haggis, the most famous of Scottish
with plenty of butter. foods, traditionally consists of sheep’s
offal and oatmeal. It is now also
available in vegetarian, venison and
whisky-laced varieties.
Whisky is
undoubtedly the
most famous of all
Scottish spirits. There
are a huge number
of whiskies from
which to choose,
each with a unique
taste (see pp36–7).
Drambuie is a
variation on a theme,
being a whisky-
based, herb-
flavoured liqueur. Drambuie Glenfiddich LochRanza Glen Ord Bell’s
80 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
ENTERTAINMENT IN
EDINBURGH
Although the majority of people associate in Glasgow these days. Many bars offer an
entertainment in Edinburgh with the festivals excellent range of Scotch whiskies and cask
that take place in August, the city also benefits ales, while the expansion of the café-bar
from its status as the Scottish capital by acting scene in the last few years means it is now
as a centre for drama, dance and music. possible to find a decent cup of coffee later
The Filmhouse is an important venue on the on in the evening. Edinburgh is home to
arthouse cinema circuit and some argue that Scotland’s national rugby union stadium,
Edinburgh’s nightclubs are as good as those Murrayfield, host to international matches.
DIRECTORY
Theatre and St Giles Cathedral The Filmhouse Café-Bars, Bars
Dance High St, EH1 1RE. 88 Lothian Rd, and Clubs
Tel (0131) 225 9442. EH3 9BZ.
Bedlam Bennet’s
Usher Hall Tel (0131) 228 2688.
11b Bristow Place, EH1 8 Leven St, EH3 9LG.
1E2. Tel (0131) 225 9893. Lothian Road, EH1 2EA. Odeon Edinburgh Tel (0131) 229 5143.
Tel (0131) 228 8616. 118 Lothian Rd,
Edinburgh Playhouse The Bow Bar
EH3 3BG. 80 West Bow, EH1 2HH.
18–22 Greenside Place, Rock, Jazz and Tel (0871) 224 4007. Tel (0131) 226 7667.
EH1 3AA. World Music
Tel (844) 871 3014. Odeon Wester Hailes The Café Royal
Assembly Rooms 120 Wester Hailes Rd, 19 W Register St, EH2 2AA.
The King’s Theatre 54 George St, EH2 2LR. EH14 1SW. Tel (0131) 556 1884.
2 Leven St, EH3 9LQ. Tel (0131) 220 4348. Tel (0871) 224 4007. The Cumberland
Tel (0131) 529 6000.
Cabaret Voltaire OMNI Edinburgh 1–3 Cumberland St, EH3
The Royal Lyceum 36 Blair St, EH1 1QR. 6RT. Tel (0131) 558 3134.
Greenside Place,
30b Grindlay St, EH3 9AX. Tel (0131) 247 4704.
EH1 3BN. Espionage
Tel (0131) 248 4848.
Henry’s Cellar Bar Tel (0871) 224 0240. 4 India Buildings, Victoria
The Traverse 8–16a Morrison St, EH3 St, EH1 2EX.
10 Cambridge St, EH1 8BJ. Tel (0131) 629 4101. Sports Tel (0131) 477 7007.
2ED. Tel (0131) 228 3223.
The Liquid Room Heart of Midlothian Indigo Yard
9c Victoria St, EH1 2HE. Tynecastle Stadium, 7 Charlotte Lane,
Classical Music Tel (0131) 225 2564. Gorgie Rd, EH11 2NL. EH2 4QZ.
and Opera
The Tron Tel (0871) 663 1874. Tel (0131) 220 5603.
Edinburgh Festival 9 Hunter Sq, EH1 1QW. Lola Lo
Hibernian Football
Theatre Tel (0131) 225 3784. 43b Frederick St, EH2 1EP.
Club Ltd
13–29 Nicolson St, Tel (0131) 226 2224.
12 Albion Place,
EH8 9FT. Cinema EH7 5QG.
Tel (0131) 529 6000.
Opal Lounge
The Cameo Tel (0131) 661 2159. 51a George St,
The Queen’s Hall 38 Home St, EH3 9LZ. EH2 2HT.
Meadowbank
85–89 Clerk St, EH8 9JG. Tel (0871) 902 5723. Tel (0131) 226 2275.
Stadium and
Tel (0131) 668 2019.
Cineworld Sports Centre Tigerlily
Reid Concert Hall 130 Dundee Street, EH1 139 London Rd, 125 George St, EH2 4JN.
Bristo Sq, EH8 9AG. 1AF. Tel (0871) 200 2000. EH7 6AE. Tel (0131) 225 5005.
Tel (0131) 651 3212. Tel (0131) 661 5351.
The Dominion Voodoo Rooms
St Cecilia’s Hall 18 Newbattle Terrace, Murrayfield Stadium 19a West Register St,
Niddry St, EH1 1LG. EH10 4RT. Murrayfield, EH12 5PJ. EH2 2AA.
Tel (0131) 668 2019. Tel (0131) 447 4771. Tel (0131) 346 5000. Tel (0131) 556 7060.
82 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
SOUTHERN
SCOTLAND
Southern Scotland is a blend of attractive landscapes and historic
houses, castles and abbeys. Sadly, many of these ancient buildings
exist only in fortified or ruined form due to the frontier wars that
dated from the late 13th century. The rounded hills of the Scottish
Borders and the more rugged peaks of Dumfries & Galloway bore
the brunt of this fierce conflict between Scotland and England.
In 1296 Scotland committed itself to the the great dramas of Scottish history have
Wars of Independence against the been played out in the South. Robert the
English, and it was Southern Scotland that Bruce’s guerrilla army defeated an English
suffered the most. The strife caused by the force at Glen Trool in 1307, but Flodden,
many battles lasted for three centuries, as near Coldstream, was the scene of the
first Scottish self-determination, and then country’s worst military reverse in 1513,
alliances with France, led to strained when King James IV of Scotland and
relations between Scotland and its thousands of his men fell in battle.Today,
southern neighbour, England. Dryburgh, the quiet countryside around the Borders
one of the area’s magnificent 12th-century market towns, and the beautiful
abbeys, was burned twice, first by the mountain scenery in Dumfries & Galloway,
English in 1322 and then again in 1544. seem to belie such violent history. The
The virtual independence of the Borders area is now known for its manufacturing
district brought further conflict. Powerful of textiles and for promoting its literary
families had operated under local laws set associations, as Sir Walter Scott lived at
in place since the mid-12th century, and Abbotsford, near St Boswells. But it is
when Scottish kings were not fighting the the ruins of the great Border abbeys,
English, they led raids into the Border castles and battlegrounds that serve as
country to try and bring it back under a reminder of Southern Scotland’s
central control. Over the years, some of turbulent past.
Fishing in the tranquil waters of the River Tweed, which weaves its way through the Border country
Ruins of 12th-century Jedburgh Abbey, one of many abbeys destroyed during conflicts with England
86 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
Blantyre Motherwell
Largs
Melbourne
Ardrossan Fenwick
NEW LANARK Biggar
Irvine Darvel
Kilmarnock
Troon Douglas
Cairn Table
Sorn 593m
Mauchline
Cumnock
Ayr
Leadhills
Dunure Alloway DUMFRIES B
HOUSE UR
NS
CULZEAN Sanquhar
CASTLE H
Dalmellington ER
IT Moffat
A
G DRUMLANRIG
E
Dailly CASTLE
Girvan char
tin Carsphairn
TR
S
Parkgate
IL
Moniaive
Lendalfoot FO GA
Merrick R E L LO Ellisland
843m ST Farm
Ni
W
Trool
th
Ballantrae Barrhill
AY K
PA
Loch New
Trool Dumfries
R
Galloway
Loch
Kirkolm Ken CAERLAVEROCK
Newton
Stewart CASTLE
THREAVE Castle
S ol w ay
CASTLE Douglas
Firth
Stranraer Gatehouse
Glenluce
D ee
Drummore
Burrow Head
SOUTHERN SCOTLAND 87
North
Berwick
Dunbar
Edinburgh
Gifford ST ABB’S
HEAD
S ND
Pathhead s
Hill
A
L Roslin Eyemouth
NT L mu
ir
P E HI L mmer Preston
Penicuik La
Berwick-upon-
Tweed
Westruther
Lauder
Coldstream
PEEBLES MELROSE
Galashiels 0 kilometres 20
ABBEY
TRAQUAIR
HOUSE KELSO 0 miles 20
ABBOTSFORD
HOUSE
EILDON TOUR OF THE
Broad Law HILLS BORDER ABBEYS
840m St Mary's Ashkirk JEDBURGH
Loch
Hawick
s
Hart Fell l
il
ot
808m
vi
Te
H
ot
Teviothead
i
ev Consett
Eskdalemuir Ch
Esk
Newcastleton
Langholm
Lockerbie
Canonbie
Ecclefechan
Sights at a Glance
1 St Abb’s Head q New Lanark p The Rhinns of
2 Kelso w Dumfries House Galloway
3 Jedburgh e Drumlanrig Castle a Culzean Castle pp96–7
4 Eildon Hills r Threave Castle
Tour
6 Melrose Abbey t Burns Heritage Trail
7 Abbotsford House y Caerlaverock Castle 5 Tour of the Border
8 Traquair House u Kirkcudbright Abbeys
9 Peebles i Whithorn
0 Pentland Hills o Galloway Forest Park
5 Scott’s View
This was Sir Walter Scott’s
favourite view of the
Borders. During his funeral,
the hearse stopped here Kal
briefly as Scott had done eW
ate
r
so often in life.
t
vio
A l ewa Te
ter
t
vio
Te
te r
Bonjedward Key
Je d W a
Tour route
Jedburgh Other road
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
7 Abbotsford
House
Galashiels, The Scottish Borders.
Tel (01896) 752043. @ from Galashiels.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily;
Oct–Nov: 10am–4pm daily. & 8
- 7 limited. ∑ scottsabbots
ford.com
The ruins of Melrose Abbey, viewed from the southwest Few houses bear the stamp
of their creator so intimately
6 Melrose Abbey known as the “Rough Wooing”. as Abbotsford House, the home
This resulted from the failure of Sir Walter Scott for the final
Melrose, The Scottish Borders.
Tel (01896) 822562. Open Apr–Sep: of the Scots to ratify a marriage 20 years of his life. He bought
9:30am–5:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: treaty between Henry VIII’s son a farm here in 1811, known
9:30am–4:30pm daily. & 7 limited. and the infant Mary, Queen of as Clarteyhole (“dirty hole” in
∑ historic-scotland.gov.uk Scots. What remains of the Borders Scots), though he soon
abbey are the outlines of renamed it Abbotsford, in
The rose-pink ruins of this cloisters, the kitchen, monastic memory of the monks of
beautiful Border Abbey bear buildings and the shell of the Melrose Abbey who used to
testimony to the devastation abbey church, with its soaring cross the River Tweed nearby.
of successive English invasions. east window and profusion of He later demolished the house
Built by David I in 1136 for medieval carvings. The decora- to make way for the turreted
Cistercian monks, and also to tions of the south exterior wall building we see today, its
replace a 7th-century monas- include a gargoyle shaped like construction funded by the
tery, Melrose was repeatedly a pig playing the bagpipes and sales of his popular novels.
ransacked by English armies, several animated figures, includ- Scott’s library contains
most notably in 1322 and 1385. ing a cook with his ladle. over 9,000 rare books and his
The final blow, from which none An embalmed heart, found collections of historic relics reflect
of the abbeys recovered, came here in 1920, is probably that of his passion for the heroic past.
in 1545, when Henry VIII of Robert the Bruce, the abbey’s The walls display an extensive
England implemented his chief benefactor, who had collection of arms and armour,
destructive Scottish policy decreed that his heart be including Rob Roy’s broadsword
(see p121). Stuart mementoes
include one of many crucifixes
Sir Walter Scott belonging to Mary, Queen of
Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832) was born in Edinburgh and trained Scots and a lock of Bonnie Prince
as a lawyer. He is best remembered as a major literary figure Charlie’s hair. The study in which
and champion of Scotland, whose poems and novels (most Scott wrote his Waverley novels,
famously his Waverley series) created enduring images of a heroic is open to the public, as is the
wilderness filled with the romance of the clans. His orchestration, room where he died in 1832.
in 1822, of the state visit of George IV to Edinburgh was an
extravaganza of Highland culture that helped establish tartan
as the national dress of Scotland. He served as
Clerk of the Court in Edinburgh’s Parliament
House and for 30 years was Sheriff of Selkirk.
He loved Central and Southern Scotland,
putting the Trossachs (see pp120–21)
firmly on the map with the
publication of the Lady of the Lake
(1810). His final years were spent
writing to pay off a £114,000
debt following the failure of his
publisher in 1827. He died with
his debts paid, and was buried
at Dryburgh Abbey in 1832.
The Classical 18th-century tenements of New Lanark on the banks of the Clyde
q New Lanark the working of its water-driven the fifth Earl of Dumfries, William
mills, the village had become Crichton Dalrymple. Designed
Clyde Valley. * 185. 3 @ Lanark.
n Horsemarket, Ladyacre Rd, Lanark
the largest producer of cotton to lure a prospective wife, it was
(01555) 661661. ∑ newlanark.org in Britain by 1800. Dale and his decorated in fashionable Rococo
successor, and son-in-law, Robert style between 1756 and 1760.
Situated by the beautiful falls Owen, were philanthropists Amongst the treasures is a price-
of the River Clyde, with three whose reforms demonstrated less collection of Chippendale
separate waterfalls, the village that commercial success need furniture, some of it purpose-
of New Lanark was founded in not undermine the wellbeing built and incorporating Scottish
1785 by the industrial entre- of the workforce. The manu- saltires. The house and contents
preneur David Dale. Ideally facturing of cotton continued were saved in 2007 by a trust
located alongside the river for here until the late 1960s. established by Prince Charles.
The New Lanark Visitor
Centre has exhibits illustrating
e Drumlanrig
the World Heritage Site’s signifi-
cance as a window on to work- Castle
ing life in the early 19th century. Thornhill, Dumfries & Galloway.
Head to the centre to purchase Tel (01848) 331555. 3 @ Dumfries,
a passport giving access to the then bus. Open Apr–Sep:10am–5pm
town’s historical buildings. daily. - & 7 ∑ drumlanrig
castle.co.uk
Environs
24 km (15 miles) north, the town Rising squarely from a grassy
of Blantyre has a memorial to the platform, the massive fortress-
Clyde Valley’s most famous son, palace of Drumlanrig Castle
the explorer David Livingstone. was built from pink sandstone
David Livingstone between 1679 and 1691 on the
E New Lanark Visitor Centre site of a 15th-century Douglas
Scotland’s great missionary
Tel (01555) 661345. Open daily. &
doctor and explorer was born 7 8 by appointment.
in Blantyre where he began
working life as a mill boy at
the age of ten. Livingstone
(1813–73) made three epic w Dumfries House
journeys across Africa, from Cumnock, Ayrshire. Tel (01290) 425959.
1840, promoting “commerce Open dawn to dusk daily. 8 Apr–
and Christianity”. He became Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Sat & Sun. -
the first European to see ∑ dumfries-house.org.uk
Victoria Falls, and died in
1873 while searching for the This wonderful Palladian villa
source of the Nile. His body is is off the beaten track, but
buried in Westminster Abbey worth a detour. Sitting in
in London. sweeping parkland, the grand The Baroque front steps and doorway of
symmetrical villa was built for Drumlanrig Castle
For hotels and restaurants see pp173–5 and pp183–4
SOUTHERN SCOTLAND 93
o Galloway
Forest Park
Dumfries & Galloway. 3 Stranraer.
n Clatteringshaws Visitor Centre
(01644) 420285, Glen Trool Visitor
Centre (01671) 840302, Kirroughtree
Visitor Centre (01671) 402165.
∑ gallowayforestpark.com
p The Rhinns of
Galloway
Dumfries & Galloway. 3 Stranraer.
@ Stranraer, Portpatrick. g Stran-
raer. n 28 Harbour St, Stranraer
(01776) 702595.
In the extreme southwest of
Scotland, this peninsula is
almost separated from the rest
of the country by Loch Ryan
and Luce Bay. It has a number of
attractions, including the Logan
Botanic Garden, near Port Logan.
Loch Trool, Galloway Forest Park, site of one of Robert the Bruce’s victories Established in 1900, subtropical
species in the garden benefit
extends to 670 sq km (260 sq to the north of Loch Trool are a from the area’s mild climate.
miles) just north of Newton considerable size, and worthy of Stranraer on Loch Ryan is the
Stewart. The principal focal note. Bennan stands at 562 m main centre and ferry port for
point is Loch Trool. By Caldons (1,844 ft), Benyellary at 719 m Northern Ireland. The nearby
Wood, to the west end of the (2,359 ft), while Merrick, at 843 m Portpatrick is a prettier town,
loch, the Martyrs’ Monument (2,766 ft), is the tallest featuring a ruined church dat-
marks the spot where six mountain in Southern Scotland. ing from 1629 and the remains
Covenanters were killed at A round trip from Loch Trool to of 16th-century Dunskey Castle.
prayer in 1685. Bruce’s Stone, Merrick’s summit and back, via
above the north shore, the silver sands of Loch Enoch Y Logan Botanic Garden
commemorates an occasion in to the east, is a total of 15 km Near Port Logan, Stranraer. Tel (01776)
1307 when Robert the Bruce (9 miles) over rough but very 860231. Open mid-Mar–Oct:
routed English forces. The hills rewarding ground. 10am–5pm daily. & 7
Loch Neldricken
Key
Footpath
Access road
Loch Valley
Long Loch of
Glenhead
a Culzean Castle
Standing on a cliff’s edge in an extensive parkland
estate, the late 16th century keep of Culzean
(pronounced Cullayn), home of the Earls of Cassillis,
was remodelled between 1777 and 1792 by the
Neo-Classical architect Robert Adam. Restored in
the 1970s, it is now a major showcase of Adam’s
later style of work. The grounds became Scotland’s
first public country park in 1969 and, with farming
flourishing alongside ornamental gardens, they
reflect both the leisure and everyday activities of View of Culzean Castle (c.1815), by Nasmyth
life on a great country estate.
Armoury
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
On the walls are a
collection of late 18th-
Practical Information
and early 19th-century
6 km (4 miles) west of Maybole,
pistols, bayonets and
Ayrshire. Tel (01655) 884455. Open
swords installed by the
Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm (last entry
12th Earl of Cassillis who
4pm); grounds 9am–dusk all year.
purchased them from the
& 7 8 11am & 2:30pm daily.
Tower of London.
0 = « ∑ nts.org.uk
Transport
3 Ayr, then bus.
Fountain Court
This sunken garden is a good
place to begin a tour of the
grounds to the east.
GLASGOW
Glasgow displays audacity in everything, from the profile of its
contemporary buildings, such as the titanium-clad structures and
tower of the Science Centre, to the presence of designer clothes
shops and the wit of its people. As recently as the 1970s, this was
a city with a fading industrial history and little sense of direction,
but much has changed since then.
Glasgow’s city centre, on the north bank heavy engineering, attracting many
of the River Clyde, has been occupied incomers from poverty-stricken districts
since ancient times. The Romans already in the Scottish Highlands and islands, and
had a presence in the area some 2,000 in Ireland, in the process. Between the
years ago, and there was a religious 1780s and the 1880s the population
community here from the 6th century. exploded from around 40,000 to over
Records show Glasgow’s growing 500,000. The city boundaries expanded,
importance as a merchant town from and, despite an economic slump
the 12th century onwards. between the two World Wars, Glasgow
Historic buildings such as Provand’s clung to its status as an industrial giant
Lordship, a 15th-century town house, until the 1970s, when its traditional skills
remind visitors of its pre-industrial roots, were no longer needed. This was a bad
but modern Glasgow grew from the time, but the city has since bounced
riches of the British Empire and the back; it was named European Capital
Industrial Revolution. In the 18th of Sport in 2003 and hosted the 2014
century the city imported rum, sugar and Commonwealth Games. A £500 million
tobacco from the colonies, while in the project at Glasgow Harbour has
19th century it reinvented itself as a reclaimed the city’s old shipyards
cotton-manufacturing centre. It then and dockland for commercial,
became a site for shipbuilding and for residential and leisure usage.
Exploring Glasgow
Glasgow city centre is a neat grid of streets running east to
west and north to south on the north bank of the River Clyde.
This small area includes the main train stations, the principal
shopping facilities and, at George Square, the tourist
information office. Outside the centre, Byres Road to the west
of Kelvingrove Park is the focus of the district known as “the
West End”, with its bars and restaurants near the University.
Pollok Country Park, in the southwest, is home to the Detail of St Mungo Museum’s
wonderful Burrell Collection. modern façade
St George’s
Cross
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TRE
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Getting Around
An extensive regional train service links Glasgow with its
suburbs. In the city itself there is an underground system that
operates daily in a simple loop around the centre, both north
and south of the River Clyde. The M8 motorway (highway)
cuts through central Glasgow, linking Inverclyde and the
“SPT” sign outside St Enoch airport in the west with Edinburgh in the east. Buses and
subway station black cabs are other options.
GLASGOW 101
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings 0 Glasgow Science Centre Arts Centres
2 George Square q Riverside Museum 6 Piping Centre
5 Glasgow Cathedral and w Kelvingrove Art Gallery and 8 Glasgow School of Art
Necropolis Museum u House for an Art Lover
7 Willow Tea Room e Scotland Street School
i Pollok House Museum
r Hunterian Art Gallery
Museums and Galleries y People’s Palace
1 Gallery of Modern Art o Burrell Collection pp108–9
3 Provand’s Lordship
4 St Mungo Museum of Religious
Parks and Gardens
Life and Art t Botanic Gardens
9 Tenement House
ET
R EET
STRE
ST
KENNED Y
VER
ANO
ST
TH H
MU N
NOR
A
J
ME
S ROA G
S T R ST L E
D IN
IRL
EET
ST
ET
CA
Royal
STRE
Infirmary
C AT H E D R A L STREET
Glasgow Cathedral
IC K
and Necropolis
Royal
R
ST
ROT
TAYLO
St Mungo
REDE
Maternity TEN
ROW Museum of Key
S
Religious Life
EET
R ST
N F
HRA STR
NE S EET STR
ST
T Motorway (highway)
NTR
R
D
Y G AT
ALBION
ST
E
DUK
MO
High Street
E
E
TL
Hutcheson's Station
ST
UT
S T RE
ET
ST
GH
City
GS
W IL S
ON Hall
N
EET
HI
HESO
Springburn
STR
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DLE
L A8
HUTC
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1
STR
CAN
EET A81 A8
IO N
4 Hillhead 2
ALB
TRO Clyd
NGA e Sighthill
TE
Yorkhill M8
Govan
GLASGOW
A8 A8
Central
Ibrox
M
8
M8 A89
1 A74
A76
Bridgeton
Mosspark Pollokshields M
74
A7
M77
49
Pollok 0 kilometres 2
0 metres 300 Park
7
A7
0 miles 2
0 yards 300
The imposing City Chambers in George Square, where a statue of Sir Walter Scott stands atop the central column
1 Gallery of social issues, often featuring Queen Victoria. With the elegant
Modern Art groups that are marginalized proportions of the interior
in today’s society. decorated in marble and mosaic,
Royal Exchange Sq. Tel (0141) the opulence of this building
287 3050. Open 10am–5pm makes it the most impressive
Mon–Thu & Sat, 11am–5pm Fri & 2 George Square of its type in Scotland.
Sun. 7 - ∑ glasgowlife.org.
City centre. City Chambers: Tel (0141)
uk/museums
287 4018. Open Mon–Fri, 10:30am &
Once the home of Glasgow’s 2:30pm for guided tours. 7 8 3 Provand’s
Royal Exchange (the city’s Merchants House: Tel (0141) 221 8272. Lordship
centre for trade), this building 8 by appt.
3 Castle St. Tel (0141) 276 1625.
dates from 1829 and also Open 10am–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat,
incorporates a late George Square was laid out in 11am–5pm Fri & Sun. ∑ glasgow
18th-century mansion the late 18th century as a resi- life.org.uk/museums
that formerly dential area, but redevelopment
occupied the site. during Victorian times conferred Provand’s Lordship was origin-
The local authority its enduring status as the city’s ally built as a canon’s house
took over the focal point. The only building in 1471, and is now Glasgow’s
Exchange just after not to be affected by the later oldest surviving house, as well
World War II, and 19th-century makeover is the as a museum. Its low ceilings
for many years Millennium Hotel (1807) on and wooden furnishings create
it served as a the north side of the Square. a vivid impression of life in a
library. It finally The 1870s saw a building wealthy 15th-century house-
opened its boom, with the construction of hold. Mary, Queen of Scots
doors as the the former Post Office (1876) at (see p48) may have stayed here
Gallery of the southeast corner, and the when she visited Glasgow in
Modern Art in Merchants House (1877) 1566 to see her cousin, and
Ornate tower of the Gallery 1996. One of to the west side. The latter husband, Lord Darnley.
of Modern Art the largest is home to Glasgow’s
contemporary Chamber of Commerce.
art galleries outside London, Founded in 1781, it is the
the GoMA is constantly building oldest organization of its
on its collection of work by kind in the UK. The most
Glasgow-based artists. dominant structure in
Accordingly, most of the gallery George Square, however,
is home to a lively and thought- is the City Chambers on
provoking programme of the east side. Designed
temporary exhibitions featuring by William Young in an
work by Scottish and inter- Italian Renaissance style,
national artists. Many of these the imposing building
focus on contemporary and was opened in 1888 by Provand’s Lordship, Glasgow’s only medieval house
For hotels and restaurants see pp174–5 and pp184–6
GLASGOW 103
Glasgow Artists
The late 19th century was a time of great artistic activity in Glasgow, with painters such
as Sir James Guthrie, Robert McGregor and others rising to prominence. But snobbery
on the part of the Edinburgh-based arts establishment often led these men to seek
recognition outside Scotland. The term “Glasgow School” was coined after an 1890
London exhibition, but the artists generally called themselves “Glasgow Boys”. Art
Nouveau designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh contributed his genius to the creative life
of the city as well as to a new Glasgow School of Art, completed in two stages – 1899 and
1909. More recently, the term Glasgow Boys has been used to describe the generation of
artists who attended the School of Art in the 1970s and ’80s. Contemporary Glasgow
artists include Ken Currie and Peter Howson.
Stirling Station, by
William Kennedy
(1859–1918), depicts
the crowded platform
with people waiting for
a train. The rich colours,
and steam from the
trains, contribute to
the atmosphere of
this bustling station.
Mackintosh’s
stylized tulips
on a checkered
background
provide a
striking
example of
Art Nouveau
In The Wayfarer, by decoration,
Edward Arthur Walton juxtaposing the
(1860–1922), the winding organic with
path leads the viewer into the geometric.
the distance, in the direc-
Designed by Mackintosh
tion of the wayfarer’s gaze.
in 1901, the House for an Art
Lover (see p107) was finally
built in 1996. The design of
the building and all of the
furniture remains true to the
original plans.
y People’s Palace
Glasgow Green. Tel (0141) 276 0788.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat,
11am–5pm Fri & Sun. 7 -
o Burrell Collection
Given to the city in 1944 by Sir William
Burrell (1861–1958), a wealthy shipping
owner, this internationally acclaimed
collection is the gem in Glasgow’s crown,
with objects of major importance in
numerous fields of interest. The building
housing these pieces was purpose-built
in 1983. When the sun shines in, the
stained glass blazes with colour, while
the shaded tapestries seem a part of Figure of a Luohan
the surrounding woodland. This sculpture of
The Georgian Pollok House, Buddha’s disciple
viewed from the south dates from the Ming
Dynasty (1484).
i Pollok House
2060 Pollokshaws Rd. Tel (0844) 493
2202. Open 10am–5pm daily. & 7
-«
Transport
3 Pollokshaws West. @ 34, 45
or 57 from Glasgow.
Gallery Guide
Except for a mezzanine-floor
display of paintings, the
exhibitions are on the ground
floor. Right of the entrance hall,
rooms are devoted to tapestries,
stained glass and sculpture,
while ancient civilizations,
Oriental art and the period
galleries are ahead.
Key to Floorplan
Ancient civilizations
Oriental art
Medieval art
Matthijs Maris
Period galleries
This popular Dutch
painter’s ethereal style Hutton Castle rooms
appealed to late Paintings and drawings
19th-century tastes. Temporary exhibition area
The Sisters (1875) is one
of over 50 Maris works
acquired by Burrell.
. Tapestries
Ground floor Peasants Hunting
Rabbits with Ferrets is a
lively Flemish tapestry
that was woven from
wool and silk in the
Lecture theatre mid-15th century. It is
one of several vast
works on show here.
. Stained Glass
A man warming himself before a fire is
one of many secular themes illustrated in
the stained-glass display. This 15th-century
piece once decorated a church in Suffolk.
110 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
SHOPPING IN GLASGOW
While Glasgow itself is home to some fashion-conscious city: the best alternative
570,000 people, as the focal point of a great fashion and design boutiques are in the
conurbation in west central Scotland it pro- West End, around Byres Road. A trip to
vides the main shopping centre for almost the colourful Barras street market, which
half of the country’s population. The large is held every weekend, offers a much more
number of potential customers is allied to traditional, if somewhat anarchic, Glaswegian
Glasgow’s reputation as Scotland’s most shopping experience.
Markets
No visit to Glasgow is complete
without a trip to The Barras, a
weekend market in the east end
of the city centre. The name is a
dialect version of “The Barrows”,
and dates from a time when
goods were sold from barrows.
The current site, between the
Gallowgate and London Road,
has been an official market
since the 1920s. Every Saturday Traditional, “barrow-style” fruit stall in Glasgow’s Barras Market
GLASGOW 111
Book Stores Shopping on Argyle Street, with its profusion of high-street stores
Glasgow is fairly well served by
bookshops. Waterstone’s on Art and Design in the foyer of the Centre for
Sauchiehall Street is a multi-floor There are a number of small Contemporary Arts, sells
chain store complete with a galleries concentrated in the interesting and affordable local
coffee shop. In the West End, streets behind the Tron Theatre, handmade art and crafts. Fans
Caledonia Books and Voltaire & such as the Glasgow Print Studio of antiques should try Lovatt
Rousseau sell a variety of second- and Art Exposure. The Redcoat Antiques, close to the River
hand and antiquarian books on Gallery is another great place to Clyde. For furniture and interior
a wide range of subjects and are pick up reasonably priced and design ideas, visit Designworks
well worth a visit. exciting work. Welcome Home, or Dallas and Dallas.
DIRECTORY
Department Graham Tiso Iain Mellis Voltaire & Rousseau
Stores and Malls 129 Buchanan St, G1 2JA. 492 Great Western Rd, 12 Otago Lane, G12 8PB.
Tel (0141) 248 4877. G12 8EW. Tel (0141) 339 1811.
Debenhams Tel (0141) 339 8998.
97 Argyle St, G2 8AR. Hector Russell Waterstone’s
Tel (0141) 221 0088. 110 Buchanan St, G1 2JN. No. 1 Chocolate 153–157 Sauchiehall St,
Tel (0141) 221 0217. Factory G2 3EW.
House of Fraser 63 St George’s Rd, Tel (0843) 290 8345.
45 Buchanan St, G1 3HR. Karen Millen G3 6JA.
Tel (0141) 221 3880. 36 Buchanan St, G1 3JX.
Tel (0141) 353 6017. Art and Design
Tel (0141) 243 2136.
Italian Centre Oddbins
7 John St, G1 1HP. Mr Ben Art Exposure
132 Woodlands Rd, 516 Great Western Rd,
Tel (0141) 552 6368. 101 King St, G1 5RB. G3 6LF. G12 8EL.
Tel (0141) 553 1936. Tel (0141) 332 1663.
John Lewis Tel (0141) 552 7779.
Buchanan Galleries, Pampas Lingerie Peckham’s
G1 2GF. 74 Hyndland Rd,
Dallas and Dallas
61–65 Glassford St, G1 18 Montrose St, G1 1RE.
Tel (0141) 353 6677. G12 9UT. 1UG. Tel (0141) 553 0666. Tel (0141) 552 2939.
Princes Square Tel (0141) 357 2383.
Roots, Fruits and Designworks
48 Buchanan St, G1 3JN. Pink Poodle Flowers 38 Gibson St, G12 8NX.
Tel (0141) 221 0324. 181 Byres Rd, G12 8TS. 1137 Argyle St, Tel (0141) 339 9520.
Tel (0141) 357 3344. G3 8ND.
Fashion Glasgow Print Studio
Schuh Tel (0141) 229 0838.
Cruise Trongate 103, G1 5HD.
112–114 Argyle St, Ubiquitous Chip
180 Ingram St, G1 1DN. Tel (0141) 552 0704.
G2 8BH. Wine Shop
Tel (0141) 572 3232. Tel (0141) 248 7331. 12 Ashton Lane, G12 8SJ. Lovatt Antiques
Diesel Tel (0141) 334 5007. 121 Lancefield St, G3 8HZ.
Starry Starry Night
House of Fraser Tel (0141) 639 3000.
19 Dowanside Lane, The Whisky Shop
(see above). G12 9BZ. 220 Buchanan St, G1 2GF. Redcoat Gallery
Dune Tel (0141) 337 1837. Tel (0141) 331 0022. 323 North Woodside Rd,
105–107 Buchanan St, G1 G20 6RY.
3HF. Tel (0141) 226 8873. Food and Drink Book Stores Tel (0141) 341 0069.
Ella Bulloch Fratelli Sarti Caledonia Books Welcome Home
461 Clarkston Rd, 133 Wellington St, 483 Great Western Rd, 350 Sauchiehall St,
G44 3LW. G2 2XD. G12 8HL. G2 3JD.
Tel (0141) 633 0078. Tel (0141) 248 2228. Tel (0141) 334 9663. Tel (0141) 352 4900.
112 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
ENTERTAINMENT IN
GLASGOW
The dance music that emerged during the Glasgow Film Theatre, a centre for arthouse
1990s found a natural home in Glasgow, releases. The annual Celtic Connections
which has possibly the most exuberant Festival in January is an international folk
nightlife in Scotland. With the Scottish music event and there is plenty of culture in
Exhibition and Conference Centre housing the city as a whole. Some major orchestras, the
two major rock venues, and Barrowlands still Scottish Ballet and Scottish Opera are based
a fixture on the concert circuit, popular music here. The Citizens’ is a highly acclaimed theatre
is very prominent. There are a number of and the Tramway and the Arches both stage
mainstream cinemas in the city, as well as the large, innovative productions.
Cinema
There are 18 screens at the
Cineworld, while the Odeon
at the Quay has 12. The
Scottish Opera performing Eugene Onegin on stage at the Theatre Royal Glasgow Film Theatre, or GFT,
shows arthouse and foreign-
language movies. Glasgow’s
Sources of Information Rock, Jazz and new IMAX Theatre is also well
The twice-monthly arts and World Music worth a visit.
entertainment magazine Rock bands have a choice of
The List covers all events venues. There is the main
in Glasgow and Edinburgh, auditorium at the Scottish
as does The Skinny (www. Exhibition and Conference
skinnymag.co.uk). Centre, and the Armadillo in
the same centre. It is Barrow-
lands, however, that remains
Classical Music the city’s principal rock venue.
and Opera There is also King Tut’s Wah
Scotland’s national opera Wah Hut, where Oasis were
company, Scottish Opera, The stylish café-bar at the Tron Theatre in
is based at the Theatre Royal the city centre
and stages some eight
productions each season.
Glasgow Royal Concert Theatre and Dance
Hall is the main venue for The Scottish ballet stages its
the Royal Scottish National Glasgow performances at the
Orchestra; it also hosts visits Theatre Royal (see Classical Music
from major international and Opera). Visiting dance
orchestras. The RSNO’s annual companies, from classical to
concert series runs from contemporary, also per form
October to April. Family here and it is a noted stop on
classical concerts are the touring circuit for major
performed all year. theatre companies from the
For more intimate shows, rest of the UK and overseas.
the Royal Conservatoire of The Citizens’ Theatre is the
Scotland has two smaller halls, main venue for serious drama,
while many venues across the Musicians outside City Chambers during a from Greek tragedies to modern
city host recitals and concerts. Festival of Jazz pieces, and it rightly claims to
GLASGOW 113
be Scotland’s best. Both and Bar 91, both in the Merchant Rangers (athough the Rangers
the Tramway and the City, and the first-floor bar at no longer play in the top
Arches are acclaimed the Radio in the West End. division), and each has an
for their experimental Bar Soba is another impressive stadium. The football
works. Smaller-scale popular cocktail bar season runs from August to
productions can be while Chinaskis has a May, and there is a game most
seen at the Tron and New York lounge feel weeks. Scotland’s Hampden
Cottier’s Theatre (see but also a great beer National Stadium hosts the finals
Rock, Jazz and World garden.The city’s club of domestic cup competitions in
Music). Commercial culture is one of the November and May each year,
productions, such Original road sign for the best in the UK. Each and major international games.
as musicals and West End venue has different
pantomimes, are a styles of music on
staple at the popular King’s. different nights, including
house, hip-hop, techno or
drum-and-bass. The Arches
Bars and Clubs (see Theatre and Dance),
Visitors can choose from The Sub Club, The Tunnel
traditional pubs or fashionable and Artá are among the best.
bars with a contemporary
atmosphere. Old-fashioned
pubs such as the Horseshoe, Sports
the Griffin and the Halt, have Glasgow is home to the country’s
long been popular in Glasgow. most successful football (soccer) Celtic fans cheering on their football
Modern venues include Home clubs, Celtic and Glasgow (soccer) team from the stands
DIRECTORY
Classical Music O2 Academy Citizens’ Theatre Home
and Opera 121 Eglington St, G5 9NT. 119 Gorbals St, G5 9DS. 80 Albion St, G1 1NY.
Tel (0141) 418 3000. Tel (0141) 429 0022. Tel (0141) 552 1734.
Glasgow Royal
Concert Hall Old Fruitmarket King’s
Horseshoe
2 Sauchiehall St, G2 3NY. Albion St, G1 1NQ. 297 Bath St, G2 4JN.
Tel (0844) 871 7627. 17 Drury St, G2 5AE.
Tel (0141) 353 8000. Tel (0141) 353 8000.
Tel (0141) 248 6368.
∑ glasgowconcert Scottish Exhibition Tramway
halls.com and Conference 25 Albert Drive, G41 2PE. Radio
Centre/Armadillo Tel (0845) 330 3501. 44–46 Ashton Lane, G12
Royal Conservatoire
Exhibition Way, G3 8YW. 8SJ. Tel (0845) 166 6011.
of Scotland Tron
Tel (0141) 248 3000.
100 Renfrew St, G2 3DB. 63 Trongate, G1 5HB. The Sub Club
∑ secc.co.uk
Tel (0141) 332 5057. Tel (0141) 552 4267.
22 Jamaica St, G1 4QD.
∑ rcs.ac.uk Cinema
Bars and Clubs Tel (0141) 248 4600.
Theatre Royal Cineworld
282 Hope St, G2 3QA. Artá The Tunnel
7 Renfrew St, G2 3AB.
Tel (0844) 871 7647. 62 Albion St, G1 1PA. 7 Renfield St, G2 5LA.
Tel (0871) 200 2000.
Tel (0845) 166 6018. Tel (0141) 226 4958.
Rock, Jazz and Glasgow Film Theatre
Bar 91
World Music 12 Rose St, G3 6RB.
91 Candleriggs, G1 1NP.
Sports
Tel (0141) 332 6535.
Barrowlands Tel (0141) 552 5211. Celtic
244 Gallowgate, G4 0TT.
IMAX Theatre
Bar Soba Celtic Park, 95 Kerrydale
50 Pacific Quay, G51 1EA.
Tel (0141) 552 4601. 11 Mitchell Lane, G1 3NU. St, G40 3RE.
Tel (0141) 420 5000.
Cottier’s Tel (0141) 204 2404. Tel (0871) 226 1888.
Odeon at the Quay
93 Hyndland St, G11 5PU. Chinaskis
Paisley Rd, Glasgow Rangers
Tel (0141) 357 5825. 239 North St, G3 7DL.
G5 8NP. Ibrox Stadium, G51 2XD.
King Tut’s Wah Wah Tel (0141) 221 0061.
Tel (0871) 224 4007. Tel (0871) 702 1972.
Hut Griffin
272a St Vincent St, G2 Theatre and 266 Bath St, G2 4JP. Hampden National
5RL. Tel (0141) 221 5279. Dance Tel (0141) 331 5171. Stadium
O2 ABC Arches Halt Hampden Park, Letherby
300 Sauchiehall St, G2 253 Argyll St, G2 8DL. 160 Woodlands Rd, G3 Drive, G42 9BA.
3JA. Tel (0844) 477 2000. Tel (0141) 565 1000. 6LF. Tel (0141) 353 6450. Tel (0141) 620 4000.
SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION 115
CENTRAL
SCOTLAND
Central Scotland is a contrast of picturesque countryside and
major urban centres, where a modern industrialized country meets
an older and wilder landscape. Historically, it was here that the
English-speaking Lowlands bordered the Gaelic Highlands, and there
is still a strong sense of transition for anyone travelling north.
The view from the Goatfell ridge, near Brodick, across to the spectacular mountains of Arran
Canal through the Argyll and Bute countryside
116 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
Loch S
Katrine
CH Callander
Inveraray A
Tarbet SS DOUNE
CASTLE
O
e
F yn
R Dunblane
Ben Lomond
974m
T
ch Strachur Aberfoyle
Lo
E
TH
Newton STIRLING
Luss Balmaha
Garelochead Alloa
LOCH Bannockburn
LOMOND
Killearn
Otter Helensburgh Falkirk
Ferry Balloch C a m p s i e Fe l l s
FALKIRK
Dunoon DE Dumbarton
WHEEL
LY
Cumbernauld WALL
Kames Clydebank
HO
Inverkip
BU
Airdrie
F I RT
TE
Skelmorlie Glasgow
Rothesay Paisley
Great Motherwell
Kingarth Cumbrae Largs
So
un Island
d Millport East Kilbride
of Dumfries
Lochranza B
Dalry
ut
e
Goat Fell
874m Kilmarnock
Pirnmill Corrie Ardrossan
A
RR
Machrie Brodick
AN
Aberdeen
Stonehaven
Fettercairn
Inverbervie
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 15 St Cyrus
Brechin
Esk Montrose
South
Kirriemuir
Forfar Inverkeilor
Ballater
GLAMIS
Pitlochry CASTLE
Coupar Arbroath
Angus
Carnoustie
Bankfoot
DUNDEE
New Scone
PERTH Leuchars
ST ANDREWS
Auchterarder
Cupar
i lls Fife Ness
l H UK
Oc
hi FALKLAND N E Anstruther
Kinross PALACE ST
A Pittenweem
E
Edinburgh
Gifford ir
u
rm Eyemouth
Pathhead m me ls
La l
Hi
Biggar Melrose Preston
Peebles Berwick-upon-
Tweed
Sights at a Glance
Key 1 Firth of Clyde q St Andrews
Motorway (highway) 2 Arran w East Neuk
Major road 3 Bute e Falkland Palace
4 Loch Lomond r Dunfermline
Minor road
5 The Trossachs pp120–21 t Culross
Other road
6 Stirling pp124–5 y Antonine Wall
Scenic route
7 Doune Castle u Falkirk Wheel
Main line railway 8 Perth
Minor railway 9 Glamis Castle
Summit 0 Dundee
+ Brodick Castle
Brodick. Tel (01770) 302202. Open
May–Sep: 11am–4pm (to 3pm Apr &
Largs seafront, the departure point for ferries to Great Cumbrae Island Oct); gardens all year. & 7 «
The snowy peak of Ben Lomond rising majestically over Loch Lomond, part of the West Highland Way
Inveruglas
Loch Kat
L o ch Ark let
Tarbet
J
BEN LOMOND
974 m
Kinlochard
(3,195 ft)
BEN UIRD
596 m
Loch Lomond (1,955 ft)
Luss Balmaha
With its exceptionally
picturesque cottages, L o ch
Luss is one of the L o mo nd
prettiest villages in
Central Scotland.
Surrounded by grassy
hills, it occupies one of
the most scenic parts
of Loch Lomond’s
western shore.
Balloch
KEY
Inchmahome Priory
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Mary, Queen of Scots
was hidden in this
Practical Information
island priory to escape
Central. n Ancaster Sq,
the armies of King
Callander. Tel (01877) 330342.
Henry VIII, before
Inchmahome Priory: Off A81,
fleeing for France.
near Aberfoyle. Tel (01877) 385
294. Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–
4.30pm daily. & 7 limited.
Sir Walter Scott Steamer: Trossachs
PERTH
Pier. Tel (01877) 376315.
Balquhidder
∑ lochkatrine.com
Transport
Loch Voil 3 Stirling. @ Callander.
Loc h
Trossachs
Lubn aig
rine
BEN LEDI
878 m
BEN VENUE (2,881 ft)
Callander
727 m Loch Brig O’Turk
(2,385 ft) Achray
Loc h V en nachar
Callander
ith Hills
Mente With its Rob Roy and Trossachs
Visitor Centre, Callander is the
Aberfoyle most popular town from which
Loc h A r d
to explore the Trossachs.
Stirling Castle
Rising high on a rocky crag, this magnificent castle, which
dominated Scottish history for centuries, now remains one of
the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in Scotland.
Legend says that King Arthur wrested the original castle from
the Saxons; however, the first written evidence of a castle
is from 1100. The present building dates from the 15th
and 16th centuries and was last defended, against the
Jacobites, in 1746. From 1881 to 1964 it was
used as a depot for recruits into the Argyll
The 17th-century town house of the Dukes and Sutherland Highlanders, though it
of Argyll now serves no military function.
Environs
Three kilometres (2 miles) south
of Stirling, the Bannockburn Entrance
Heritage Centre stands by the
field where Robert the Bruce
defeated the English in 1314
(see p47). After the battle, he
dismantled the castle so it
would not fall back into English
hands. A bronze equestrian
statue commemorates the
man who became an icon
of Scottish independence.
. Chapel Royal
Seventeenth-century frescoes
by Valentine Jenkins adorn the
chapel, built in 1594.
Grand Battery
Following the unrest after the
deposition of the Stuarts (see p49), this
parapet was built in 1708, to strengthen
the castle’s defences.
KEY
1 Forework
Environs
Three km (2 miles) north of Perth,
Gothic Scone Palace stands on
the site of an abbey destroyed
by John Knox’s followers in
1559. Between the 9th and 13th
centuries, Scone guarded the
Perth seen from the east across the Tay sacred Stone of Destiny, now in
Edinburgh Castle (see pp64–5).
7 Doune Castle The film Monty Python and the
Holy Grail was shot here, making + Balhousie Castle
Doune, Central. Tel (01786) 841742.
the castle a popular destination RHQ Black Watch, Hay St. Tel (01738)
3 @ Stirling then bus. Open Apr–
for Python fans. 638152. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat
Sep: 9:30am–5:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:
10am–4pm Sun
9:30am–4:30pm daily. & 7 limited.
∑ historic-scotland.gov.uk E Museum and Art Gallery
8 Perth 78 George St. Tel (01738) 632488.
Built as the residence of Robert, Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat
Perthshire. * 47,200. 3 @
Duke of Albany, in the late n Lower City Mills, West Mills St. Tel (also Sun Apr–Oct). 7
1300s, Doune Castle was a (01738) 450600. ∑ perthshire.co.uk + Scone Palace
Stuart stronghold until it fell A93 to Braemar. Tel (01738) 552300.
into ruin in the 18th century. Once the capital of medieval Open Apr–Oct: daily. & 7
Now fully restored, it offers a Scotland, Perth has a rich heritage
unique view into the life of the that is reflected in many of its
medieval royal household. buildings. It was in the Church of 9 Glamis Castle
The Gatehouse leads to the St John, founded in 1126, that the
Glamis, outside Forfar, Tayside.
central courtyard, from which preacher John Knox delivered Tel (01307) 840393. 3 @ Dundee
the Great Hall can be entered. the fiery sermons that led to the then bus. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm.
Complete with its open-timber destruction of many local mon- & 8 7 grounds. ∑ glamis-
roof, minstrels’ gallery and asteries. The Victorianized Fair castle.co.uk
central fireplace, the Hall adjoins Maid’s House (c.1600), on North
the Lord’s Hall and Private Room Port, is one of the oldest houses With the pinnacled outline of
with its original privy and well- in town and was the fictional a Loire chateau, the imposing
hatch. A number of private stairs home of the heroine of Sir Walter medieval tower-house of Glamis
and narrow passages illustrate Scott’s The Fair Maid of Perth (1828). Castle began as a royal hunting
the ingenious means by which In Balhousie Castle, the lodge in the 11th century but
the royal family protected itself Museum of the Black Watch underwent reconstruction in
during times of danger. commemorates the first ever the 17th century. It was the
e Falkland Palace
Falkland, Fife. Tel (0844) 4932 186.
3 Ladybank, then bus. Open Mar–
Oct: 11am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
Sun (until 4pm Nov–Feb). & 7 «
∑ nts.org.uk
Clues to the non-Celtic ancestors of the led by Bonnie Prince Charlie (see p157). A
Highlanders lie scattered across the more romantic vision of the Highlands
Highlands and islands in the form of stone began to emerge in the early 19th
circles, brochs and cairns spanning over century, largely due to Sir Walter Scott’s
5,000 years. By the end of the 6th century, novels and poetry depicting the majesty
the Gaelic-speaking Celts had arrived from and grandeur of a country previously
Ireland, as had St Columba, who taught considered merely poverty-stricken and
Christianity to the monastic community barbaric. Another great popularizer was
he established on the island of Iona. The later Queen Victoria, whose passion for
fusion of Christianity with Viking culture in Balmoral Castle helped establish the trend
the 8th and 9th centuries produced the for acquiring Highland sporting estates.
beautiful St Magnus Cathedral in the But behind the sentimentality lay harsh
Orkney Islands. economic realities that drove generations of
For over 1,000 years, Celtic Highland Highland farmers to seek a new life overseas.
society was founded on a clan system, Today, over half the inhabitants of the
built on family ties to create loyal groups Highlands and islands still live in
dependent on a feudal chief. However, the communities of less than 1,000 people.
clans were systematically broken up by But thriving oil and tourist industries now
England after 1746, following the defeat of supplement fishing and whisky, and
the Jacobite attempt on the British crown population figures are rising.
ch
of Callanish Eas Coul Aulin
Stornoway Waterfall
in
Loch Ness and the Cairngorms, Isle Lechinver
M
while Fort William holds the key of Lewis Ledmore
e
h
to Ben Nevis. Inland from Hushinish
S Lemreway T Achiltibuie
Aberdeen lie Royal Deeside Summer Isles
L E
W E STE
Newtonferry Sgurr Mor
ferry ride from Oban, 1110m
Staffin
Mallaig or Ullapool.
N
Lochmaddy Uig
North
R R
T E R
Uist
OSS
Gramsdale Torridon
LE
IS
Benbecula
OF Lochcarron
W E S
Dunvegan
S K Y Portree
E Kyle of
Eilean
Carbost Lochalsh Donan Castle
South Sea C u Broadford
Uist illin
s
o f the
Elgol GLEN
Lochboisdale Hebrides SHIEL
Eriskay Ardvasar
Barra MALLAIG
Castlebay
RUM, EIGG, R O A D TO T H
E
0 kilometres 25 MUCK AND CANNA I S L E S TO U R
0 miles 25 Mingulay Glenfinnan
FORT WILLIAM
ARDNAMURCHAN BEN NEVIS
PENINSULA
GLENCOE
Aringaur Tobermory
E
RE Lochaline
Scarinish T I Calgary
N D Craignure
L LA M
U
CO Staffa LL OBAN
Iona LOCH AWE
Fionnphort
INVERARAY CASTLE
AUCHINDRAIN MUSEUM
CRARAE
Colonsay GARDENS
Lochgilphead
RA
JU
Loch Fyne
Paps of
Port Askaig Jura Tarbert
Craighouse
Port Charlotte
IS
Highland cattle grazing on the Isle of Skye LA
Y Lochranza
Gigha
E
Tayinloan
T YR
Port Ellen
Carradale
KIN
Isle of
Getting Around Arran
There are no motorways in the region, though travel by
Campbeltown
car is made easy by a system of A roads (major roads).
Mull of
Single-track roads predominate on the isles, which are Kintyre
served by a substantial ferry network and a free bridge
to Skye. The rail link ends to the west at Kyle of Lochalsh
and to the north at Wick and Thurso. There are regular
flights from London to Inverness, Aberdeen and Wick.
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS 133
Unst
Duncansby Yell
D
C A P E W R AT H A N T Head Fetlar
S
T H E N O R T H COA
Durness Strathy Dounreay
Thurso SHETLAND ISLANDS
Whalsay
Mainland
Ben Hope
Wick Lerwick
927m Foula
Forsinard Achavanich
Mousa Broch
Ben Klibreck Morven Latheron Sumburgh
961m 705m
N O R
Kildonan
T H
Loch Helmsdale S E
Shin A
Lairg NORTH Fair Isle
Brora
O y kel SEA
Bonar
n Bridge
r ro DORNOCH Westray
Ca Sanday
Rousay
Tain ORKNEY ISLANDS
Ben Wyvis Balintore Maeshowe
Lossiemouth Kirkwall
1045m BLACK Cromarty
ISLE Stromness Mainland
Forres ELGIN
Hoy
FORT GEORGE Keith
STRATHPEFFER John O' Groats
CAWDOR Craigellachie
INVERNESS CASTLE
Dufftown
CULLODEN SPEYSIDE MALT
Loch WHISKY TRAIL
Grantown- Newburgh
G L E AT
Ness on-Spey
EN
Aviemore
GR
Colnabaichin
Cairn Gorm
1245m
ABERDEEN
E
TH
Glasgow
Sights at a Glance
1 Inveraray Castle p Pitlochry . Inverewe Garden
2 Auchindrain Museum a Dunkeld / Ullapool
3 Crarae Gardens s The Cairngorms pp144–5 ! Handa Island
4 Jura d Aberdeen pp146–7 @ Cape Wrath and the
5 Islay g Speyside Malt Whisky Trail North Coast
6 Kintyre h Elgin £ Orkney Islands
7 Loch Awe j Fort George $ Shetland Islands
8 Oban k Culloden % Western Isles
9 Mull l Cawdor Castle
Walks and Tours
0 Coll and Tiree z Inverness
q Glencoe x The Great Glen pp152–3 r Road to the Isles Tour
w Fort William c Black Isle i Killiecrankie Walk
e Ben Nevis v Strathpeffer f Royal Deeside Tour
t Ardnamurchan Peninsula b Dornoch
y Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna n Glen Shiel
u Mallaig m Isle of Skye pp156–7
o Blair Castle , Wester Ross
1 Inveraray Castle
Inveraray, Argyll & Bute. 3 Dalmally,
then bus. @ from Glasgow.
Tel (01499) 302203. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–5:45pm daily. & 8 - 7
∑ inveraray-castle.com
Mist crowning the Paps of Jura, seen at sunset across the Sound of Islay
the water. A legend tells of historical interest is the bustles with pleasure craft
Prince Breackan who was medieval stronghold of the in the summer. The town of
drowned in his attempt to win Lords of the Isles, Finlaggan, Tarbert (meaning “isthmus” in
the hand of a princess. He tried which is under excavation. Gaelic) takes its name from the
to keep his boat anchored in Islay’s superb beaches support neck on which it stands, which
the whirlpool for three days, a variety of birdlife, some of is narrow enough to drag a boat
held by ropes made of hemp, which can be seen at the Royal across, between the waters of
wool and maidens’ hair, until Society for the Protection of Loch Fyne and West Loch
one rope, containing the hair Birds (RSPB) reserve at Gruinart. Tarbert. This feat was first
of an unfaithful girl, finally broke. achieved by the Viking King
E Museum of Islay Life Magnus Barfud who, in 1198,
Port Charlotte. Tel (01496) 850358. was granted by treaty as much
5 Islay Open Apr–Sep: 10:30am–4:30pm land as he could sail around.
Mon–Fri. & 7 Travelling further south past
Argyll & Bute. * 3,500. g from
Kennacraig. n Bowmore (01496) Campbeltown, the B842 road
810254. ∑ islayinfo.com ends at the headland known as
6 Kintyre the Mull of Kintyre, which was
The most southerly of the Argyll & Bute. * 8,000. 3 Oban. made famous when former
Western Isles, Islay (pronounced @ Campbeltown. n Campbeltown Beatle Paul McCartney
“Eyeluh”) is the home of such (01586) 552056. ∑ kintyre.org commercialized a traditional
respected Highland single malt pipe tune of the same name.
whiskies (see p36) as Lagavulin A long, narrow peninsula Westward from Kintyre lies
and Laphroaig. Most of the stretching far south of Glasgow, the isle of Rathlin. It is here
island’s distilleries produce Kintyre has superb views across that Robert the Bruce learned
heavily peated malts with a to the islands of Gigha, Islay and patience in his constant strug-
distinctive tang of the sea. The Jura. The 14 km (9 mile) Crinan gles against the English by
Georgian village of Bowmore Canal, which opened in 1801 observing a spider weaving
has the island’s oldest distillery and has a total of 15 locks, an elaborate web in a cave.
and a circular church designed
to minimize the Devil’s possible
lurking places. The Museum
of Islay Life in Port Charlotte
contains a wealth of fascinating
information concerning the
island’s social and natural
history. Eleven kilometres
(7 miles) east of Port Ellen
stands the Kildalton Cross.
A block of local green stone
adorned with Old Testament
scenes, it is one of the most
impressive 8th-century Celtic
crosses in Britain. Worth a visit
for its archaeological and Sailing boats moored at Tarbert harbour, Kintyre
136 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
Y Arduaine Garden
Arduaine. Tel (0844) 493 2216. Open
The ruins of Kilchurn Castle on the shore of Loch Awe daily. & 7 8 by appointment. «
The picturesque kaleidoscope of houses in Tobermory, one of Mull’s most-favoured tourist stops
Environs
The small and very beautiful island
of Iona is one of the biggest
attractions on Scotland’s west
coast. A restored abbey stands
on the site where Irish missionary
St Columba began his crusade
in 563 and made Iona the home
of Christianity in Europe. In the
abbey graveyard, 48 Scottish
kings are said to be buried. During A traditional croft building on the island of Coll
138 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
The Three Sisters, Glencoe, rising majestically in the late autumn sunshine
Glencoe Mountain
The Massacre of Glencoe Kingshouse, Glencoe. Tel (01855)
In 1692, the chief of the Glencoe MacDonalds was five days late in 851226. Open daily. & 7 limited.
registering an oath of submission to William III, giving the government ∑ glencoemountain.com
an excuse to root out a nest of Jacobite supporters. For ten days 130
soldiers, captained by Robert Campbell, were hospitably entertained
by the unsuspecting MacDonalds. At dawn on 13 February, in a terrible w Fort William
breach of trust, the soldiers fell on their hosts, killing some 38
MacDonalds. Many more died in Lochaber * 10,000. 3 @ n (01397)
their wintry mountain hideouts. 701801. ∑ visithighlands.com
The massacre, unsurprisingly,
Fort William, one of the major
became a political scandal,
towns on the west coast, is
though there were to be
no official reprimands noted not for its looks but for
for three years. its location at the foot of Ben
Nevis. The Jacobite Steam Train
Detail of The Massacre runs the magical route from
of Glencoe by James here to Mallaig (see p141),
Hamilton as do ordinary trains.
To northeast face
ll
Achintee
Lo ch M ea
House
GL
EN
Glen
Nevis
NE
House
VI
BEN NEVIS
S
1,344 m
J (4,406 ft)
Ri
Nevis Forest
ve
r
Nevi
s
Minor road
7 Mallaig
The Road to the Isles ends at
Arisaig
Mallaig, an active little fishing port
with a very good harbour and
one of the ferry links to Skye
(see pp156–7) and the Small Isles.
mh Loch Ei
lt
Ua
n
Na
rt
ch
llo
Lo Ardnish
hA
Loc
6 Morar
The road continues through 5 Prince’s Cairn
Morar, renowned for its The road crosses the Ardnish
white sands, and Loch Peninsula to Loch Nan Uamh,
Morar, rumoured to be where a cairn marks the spot
the home of a 12-m (40-ft) from which Bonnie Prince
monster known as Morag. Charlie left for France in 1746.
t Ardnamurchan
Peninsula
Argyll. g Corran Ferry on A82 from
Glencoe to Fort William, or Fishnish
(Mull) to Kilchoan. n (01967) 402382.
4 Glenfinnan Monument
This 20-m- (66-ft-) high monument
commemorates those who rose in
support of Bonnie Prince Charlie in
the 1745 Jacobite rebellion. He first
raised his standard in Glenfinnan.
3 Corpach
Looking east from the
town of Corpach, across
Loch Linnhe, there are
fine views of Ben Nevis.
2 Neptune’s Staircase
0 kilometres 2.5
A flight of eight locks, designed
an
he
most spectacular part of the
Caledonian Canal (see p153).
ig
Fionnl
Glenfinnan
Suilea
Inverness
g
Kinlocheil
hy
Loc
el
hi
Key
Lin
ch
1 Fort William
Lo
Tour route
From here you can tackle Ben Ben Nevis
Other road Nevis, Britain’s highest peak at Glencoe
1,344 m (4,410 ft).
owned by Gaelic scholar with scabrous peaks that bear Visitors to the castle can stay at
John Lorne Campbell, it now Norse names and are home to the on-site hostel.
belongs to the National Trust for an unusual colony of Manx
Scotland. It has few inhabitants shearwater birds. The island’s + Kinloch Castle, Rum
and little accommodation. rough tracks make it best suited Tel (01687) 462037. Open Apr–Oct:
Eigg is the most varied of to the active visitor. Now owned daily; Nov–Mar: call for details.
the four islands. Dominated by by Scottish Natural Heritage and &78
the distinctive sugarloaf hill, the a centre for red deer research,
Sgurr of Eigg, it has a glorious it previously belonged to the
beach with “singing sands” that wealthy Bullough family. They u Mallaig
make odd noises when moved built the lavish Kinloch Castle Lochaber. * 800. 3 @ g from
by feet or by the wind. Here the whose design and furnishings Ardvasar (Skye). n Fort William,
islanders symbolize the spirit were revolutionary at the time. (01397) 701801.
of community land
ownership, having The heart of Mallaig is its
successfully led a high- harbour, which has an active
profile campaign to fishing fleet and ferries that
buy their island from serve the Small Isles and Skye.
their landlord. The atmosphere is rather more
Muck takes its name commercial than leisurely, but it
from the Gaelic for is set in an area of outstanding
“pig”, which it is said to beauty. The Mallaig Heritage
resemble in shape. The Centre is a local history
smallest of the islands, museum covering fishing,
but no less charming, it railways, steamers and ferries.
is owned by a family
who live and farm on O Mallaig Heritage Centre
the island. Rum is the Tel (01687) 462085. Open 11am–4pm
largest and most Mon–Fri, noon–4pm Sat. & 8 by
magnificent island, Colourful fishing boats in Mallaig harbour appointment.
i Killiecrankie Walk
In an area famous for its scenery There are ideal picnic spots along the way,
and historical connections, this circular and the shores of man-made Loch Faskally
walk offers views that are typical of the are lined with beautiful trees. Returning
Highlands. The route is fairly flat, though along the River Tummel, the route crosses
ringed by mountains, and meanders one of Queen Victoria’s favourite Highland
through a wooded gorge, passing the areas before it doubles back to complete
Soldier’s Leap and a Victorian viaduct. the circuit.
Blair Atholl 1 Killiecrankie
A visitor centre provides
information on the Battle of
Killiecrankie, fought in 1689.
Garry
J
7 Linn of Tummel
The path passes a
pool beneath the Garry Bridge 2 Soldier’s Leap
Falls of Tummel and
A soldier named Donald
continues through
MacBean leapt over the
a beautiful forest.
river here to avoid capture
by Jacobites during the
battle of 1689.
6 Coronation Tummel
Bridge Forest
Spanning the Park
J Faskally House
River Tummel, this 3 Killiecrankie
footbridge was built Pass
in 1860 in honour This military road,
of George IV. built by General
Wade in the 1600s,
follows the gorge.
J
s The Cairngorms
Rising to a height of 1,309 m (4,296 ft),
the Cairngorm mountains form the highest
landmass in Britain. Cairn Gorm itself is the site
of one of Britain’s first ski centres. A weather Nairn
Inverness
station at the summit provides regular reports,
essential in an area known for sudden changes Carrbridge
of weather. Walkers should be sure to follow the
mountain code without fail. During the summer
a funicular railway climbs Cairn Gorm affording
superb views over the Spey Valley. Many estates
in the valley have centres which introduce the Boat of
Garten
visitor to Highland land use.
Strathspey Steam
Railway
This track between
Aviemore and Broomhill
dates from1863.
Aviemore
Coylumbridge
Be
an
a id h
ey Loch An
Sp
Highland Wildlife Park Eilein
Driving through this park, the visitor
can see bison alongside bears, Kincraig
wolves and wild boar. All of these Loch
animals were once common Insh
in the Highlands.
hie
Kingussie
Fe s
BRAERIACH
Newtonmore
Tolvah 1,295 m
(4,248 ft)
Loch
Perth Einich
Key
Major road
Minor road
Narrow lane
Footpath
KEY
Loch Garten
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Osprey Centre
Ospreys now thrive in
Practical Information
this reserve, which was
The Highlands. n Grampian Rd,
established in 1959 to
Aviemore (01479) 810930.
protect the first pair seen Cairngorm Reindeer Centre: Loch
in Britain for 50 years. Morlich. Tel (01479) 861228.
Grantown-On-Spey Open daily. & 8 ∑ cairn
gormreindeer.co.uk; Highland
Broomhill
Wildlife Park: Tel (01540) 651270.
Open daily (weather permitting).
∑ highlandwildlifepark.org
Rothiemurchus Visitor Centre:
Nethy Bridge near Aviemore. Tel (01479) 812345.
Open daily. ∑ rothiemurchus.net
Loch Garten Osprey Centre:
0 kilometres 5
Tel (01479) 831476. Open daily.
Loch
∑ rspb.org.uk
Garten 0 miles 5 Skiing & Funicular Railway:
Tel (01479) 861261.
∑ cairngormmountain.org
Strathspey Steam Railway:
Tel (01479) 810725.
∑ strathspeyrailway.co.uk
Transport
3 @ Aviemore.
CAIRN GORM
Flora of the Cairngorms
1,245 m
(4,084 ft) With mixed woodland at their base and the summits forming a sub-
polar plateau, the Cairngorms present a huge variety of flora. Ancient
Caledonian pines (once common in the area) survive in Abernethy
Forest, while arctic flowers flourish in the heights.
1,200 m
BEN MACDHUI
(3,950 ft)
1,309 m
(4,296 ft)
The Cairngorm plateau holds little life
except lichen (Britain’s oldest plant), wood rush
and cushions of moss campion, which is often 1,000 m
completely covered with pink flowers. (3,300 ft)
Mixed woodland
covers the lower 400 m
ground which is (1,300 ft)
carpeted with heather
and deegrass.
200 m
(650 ft)
0m
An idealized section of the Cairngorm plateau (0 ft)
The Cairngorms by Aviemore
For additional map symbols see back flap
146 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
R St Nicholas Kirk
Union St. Tel (01224) 643494. Open
May–Sep: noon–4pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–
1pm Sun; Oct–Apr: Mon–Fri am only.
7 ∑ kirk-of-st-nicholas.org.uk
Founded in the 12th century,
St Nicholas is Scotland’s largest
parish church. Though the pres-
ent structure dates from 1752,
many earlier relics can be seen
inside. After damage during the
Reformation, the interior was
divided into two. A chapel in
The spires of Aberdeen, rising behind the city harbour the East Church holds iron rings
used to secure witches in the
Exploring Aberdeen stained-glass windows add a 17th century, while in the West
The city centre flanks the 1.5-km modern touch to the interior, Church there are embroidered
(1-mile-) long Union Street, which contains a 1540 pulpit, panels attributed to Mary
ending at the Mercat Cross. The later carved with heads of Jameson (1597–1644).
cross stands by Castlegate, the Stuart monarchs.
one-time site of the city castle, E Maritime Museum
and now only a marketplace. R St Andrew’s Cathedral Shiprow. Tel (01224) 337700.
From here, the cobbled Shiprow King St. Tel (01224) 640119. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
meanders southwest and passes Open May–Sep: 11am–4pm Tue–Fri; 3pm Sun. - 7 ∑ aagm.co.uk
Provost Ross’s House on its way Oct–Apr: by appointment. 7 Overlooking the harbour is
to the harbour. A bus can be 8 by arrangement. the Provost Ross’s House, dating
taken 1.5 km (1 mile) north The Mother Church of the back to 1593. It now houses
of the centre to Old Aberdeen, Episcopal Church in the United the Maritime Museum, which
which, with its medieval States, St Andrew’s has a traces the history of Aberdeen’s
streets and wynds (narrow, memorial to Samuel Seabury, seafaring tradition. The exhib-
winding lanes), has the the first Episcopalian itions cover numerous topics
peaceful character bishop in the US, who from shipwrecks, rescues and
of a separate village. was consecrated in shipbuilding to models that
Aberdeen in 1784. A illustrate the workings of the
P King’s College series of coats of arms many oil installations situated
College Bounds, Old contrast colourfully with off the east coast of Scotland.
Aberdeen. Tel (01224) the white walls and
272000. Open daily. 7 pillars. They represent R St Machar’s Cathedral
Founded in 1495, King’s the American states and The Chanonry. Tel (01224) 485988.
College was the city’s local Jacobite families. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4:30pm daily;
first university. The Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. 7
visitor centre gives E Art Gallery ∑ stmachar.com
background on its Lantern tower, Schoolhill. Tel (01224) This 15th-century cathedral is
long history. The inter- King’s College 523700. Closed for refurbish- the city’s oldest granite building.
denominational chapel, ment until winter 2017. 7 One of its arches dates back to
consecutively Catholic and - ∑ aagm.co.uk the 14th century. The nave is a
Protestant in the past, has a Housed in a Neo-Classical parish church and its ceiling is
distinctive lantern tower, rebuilt building, the Art Gallery has adorned with coats of arms of
in 1633. Douglas Strachan’s a significant collection of popes and emperors.
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS 147
Entrance
OLD ABERDEEN
0 metres 200 INVERURIE PETERHEAD
Aberdeen Airport WES
0 yards 200 11 km (7 miles) T NO
RTH
ST
KING S
ST
N
EE
St. Andrew's
QU
E House
BLA
AT BR Marischal
R R IE
Aberdeen ST
KG FL
CK
O
O College E
Art Gallery IR A IC
TS
F R IA
UR D
RK M ST
PE ST JU
TRE
IL Mercat
UP
RS
LA Cross
E
ET
T
ST
Theatre
NI
NE
T SCH OOL HILL
CH
GATE
M
R OSEMOUNT VIADUC I RK
AR
OL
RK
ET
ISC
JA M
HE
BE
AS
ET RE
HA
ST
T
LM
ST
RE
NE
ES S
U
L
DE
ST
N
ON
A
NI
IO
SH
Union
NB
St Nicholas
TRE
I
T S
N
ST
OR
Kirk G
UR
RE
TE
Maritime IR
ET
E
T
Terrace N
W
ET
N
RR
RE
IO
LA
V
Museum QU AY
UN
RO
RO
A
Gdns. A D RE GE NT
ET
C
EN
E
IP
RE SH AY
G QU
EX
HE Y
CH
T IT
ST
IN
AN
BRAEMAR
IR L
RE
TR
DE
GE
BANCHORY NN
IN G
IE Ferry
NB
Harbour BLA
ST
'S Y Terminal
IT T
Q U IK IE S
BR
W
ST
IN EE
UR
YN
T R TR AY AY
ID
S T QU
D
GE
R E GE N T
R
M
O
ST ES
ST
AD
AR
M
ILD JA
RE
1 Art Gallery GU
KE
ET
Bus Station
R OA D
T
2 St Nicholas Kirk
ST
CO
FISH
LLE
ET
4 Marischal College
GE
Fish
5 St Andrew’s Cathedral Market
STR
7 Maritime Museum
Aboyne
irn
J
J
Tanar
Braemar, Perth
Muick
5 Ballater
6 Balmoral The old railway town of
Bought by Queen Victoria for Ballater has royal warrants
30,000 guineas in 1852, after its on many of its shop fronts.
owner choked to death on a It grew as a 19th-century
fishbone, the castle was rebuilt spa town, its waters
in the Scottish Baronial style reputedly providing a cure
at Prince Albert’s request. for tuberculosis.
g Speyside Malt
Whisky Trail
Moray. n Elgin (01343) 562608.
∑ maltwhiskytrail.com
3 Banchory
Just south of the town is the
18th-century Brig o’ Feugh,
where salmon leap.
Peterculter
Dee
Crathes
Stonehaven
1 Drum Castle
This 13th-century keep was granted
2 Crathes Castle and
by Robert the Bruce to his standard-
Gardens bearer William de Irwyn in 1323, in
This is the family home of gratitude for his services.
the Burnetts, who were
made Royal Foresters of
Drum by Robert the Bruce.
Along with the title, he Key
gave Alexander Burnett the Tour route
ivory Horn of Leys, which Other road
is still on display.
k Culloden
Inverness. 3 @ Inverness. «
The red sandstone exterior of Inverness Castle, high above the city centre, in the light of the setting sun
its atmosphere, with a compact of local and international Highlands, as it lies within easy
and easily accessible centre. per formers. Following the tree- reach of most of the region’s
Although sadly defaced by lined banks of the river further best-known attractions,
modern architecture, Inverness upstream leads to the Island including the battlesite of
earns a worthy reputation Walks, accessed by a pedestrian Culloden, 8 km (5 miles) to
for its floral displays in suspension bridge. Beyond the east (see opposite).
summer, and for the this, further upstream still, is
River Ness, which flows Inverness Leisure, which E Museum and Art Gallery
through the centre and offers swimming pools, Castle Wynd. Tel (01463) 237114.
adds considerable spas and a variety of Open Apr–Oct: Tue–Sat; Nov–Mar:
charm. The river is wild, spiralling Thu–Sat. 7 ∑ inverness.highland.
frequented by salmon flumes. Thomas museum
fishermen during the Telford’s E Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor
summer, even where it Caledonian Centre
runs through the city Canal (see pp152–3), 4–9 Huntly St. Tel (01463) 222781.
centre. Holding the an engineering Open daily. &
high ground above marvel constructed F Eden Court Theatre
the city is Inverness Kiltmaker with Royal between 1804 and Bishop’s Rd. Tel (01463) 234234. &
Castle, a Victorian Stuart tartan 1822, is still in constant 8 7 ∑ eden-court.co.uk
building of red use and can be viewed
sandstone, now used as the at Tomnahurich Bridge. From S Inverness Leisure
courthouse. Just below the here, Jacobite Cruises runs a Bught Lane. Tel (01463) 667500.
castle, next to the tourist series of summer cruises along Open daily. & 7
information office, is the the length of Loch Ness – an 4 Jacobite Cruises
Museum and Art Gallery, excellent way to spend a sunny Tomnahurich Bridge, Glenurquhart.
which houses permanent and afternoon. Inverness is an ideal Tel (01463) 233999. & 7
touring exhibitions and runs base for touring the rest of the ∑ jacobite.co.uk
workshops for children. The
main shopping area fans out in
three directions from here and
The Jacobite Movement
includes a lively pedestrian The first Jacobites (mainly Catholic
precinct where pipers and other Highlanders) were the supporters of James
musicians can be found busking. VII of Scotland (James II of England) who was
Just across the river is the deposed by his Parliament in the “Glorious
Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor Revolution” of 1688. With the Protestant
Centre, part of the Highland William of Orange on the throne, the
House of Fraser Group. Here Jacobites’ desire to restore the Stuart monarchy
visitors will get an insight into led to the uprisings of 1715 and 1745. James II, by Samuel
The first, in support of James VIII, the “Old
the history, culture and tradition Cooper (1609–72)
Pretender”, ended at the Battle of Sheriffmuir
of the kilt, with audio-visual and
(1715). The failure of the second uprising, with the defeat at Culloden,
workshop presentations of saw the end of Jacobite hopes and led to the demise of the clan system
kiltmaking. On the banks of the and the suppression of Highland culture for more than a century.
Ness, stands Eden Court Theatre,
which has a varied programme
152 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
Steall Waterfall
Located at the foot of the magnificent
Ben Nevis, this impressive waterfall
tumbles down into a valley of wild
flowers. The walk takes 45 minutes and
passes through a dramatic gorge. It’s the
perfect place to picnic. Loch
Mullardoch
Kinlochourn Loch
Oich
Loch Invergarry
Quoich
South Laggan
KEY
y
ch
Lo
Loch
1 Ben Nevis (see p139) is Britain’s
ch
Arkaig
Lo
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Highland. n Castle Wynd,
Inverness (01463) 252401.
∑ visitscotland.com
The Loch Ness Centre and
Exhibition: Tel (01456) 450573.
Open daily. & 7
Urquhart Castle: Tel (01456)
450551. Open daily. &
Strathpeffer
Inverness
Drumnadrochit
ss
Ne
ch
Lo
n
or
dh
E
in
rF
Invermoriston
ve
L
Ri
G
Laggan Bridge
R
an
gg
La
ch
Lo
Key
t
ch
the Glen
ch
Lo
Major road
Minor road First sighted by St Columba in
Black the 6th century, “Nessie” has
Water attracted attention since
photographs – later revealed to
be faked – were taken in the
1930s. Though serious
investigation is often under-
mined by hoaxers, sonar
. Caledonian Canal techniques continue to yield
This splendid canal enigmatic results: plesiosaurs,
provides a base giant eels and too much whisky
from which to view are the most popular
the Glen’s beautiful explanations. The Loch Ness
surroundings. Centre, at Drumnadrochit,
From Inverness, the presents the photographic
canal travels via Fort evidence and a wide variety of
Augustus to the eight scientific explanations proffered
locks at Neptune’s over the years.
Staircase – a feat of
engineering.
For additional map symbols see back flap
154 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
v Strathpeffer
Ross & Cromarty. * 1,500.
3 Dingwall. @ Inverness. n Real
Sweets, The Pump Room, The Square,
(07801) 759217. ∑ visitscotland.com
The western side of the Five Sisters of Kintail, seen from a viewpoint above Ratagan
156 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
m Isle of Skye
The largest of the Inner Hebrides, Skye can be reached by the bridge linking Kyle
of Lochalsh and Kyleakin. A turbulent geological history has given the island some
of Britain’s most varied and dramatic scenery. From the rugged volcanic plateau of
northern Skye to the ice-sculpted peaks of the Cuillins, the island is divided by
numerous sea lochs, leaving the traveller never more than 8 km (5 miles) from
the sea. Limestone grasslands predominate in the south, where the Kilmuir
hillsides, home of sheep and cattle, are scattered with the ruins of
Western Isles
crofts abandoned during the Clearances (see p154). Historically,
Uig
Skye is best known for its association with Bonnie Prince Charlie.
L o ch
S nizo rt
Lusta
Milovaig
Dunvegan
Skeabost
Dunvegan Castle
For over seven centuries, Dunvegan Castle has been
the seat of the chiefs of the Clan MacLeod. It contains
the Fairy Flag, a piece of magical silk treasured for its
protective powers.
Key Portnalong
Major road
0 Kilometres 10 Talisker
Minor road Carbost
0 miles 5
Narrow lane
C u illi n
KEY
Transport
3 Kyle of Lochalsh. @ Portree.
f Ra
Sconser
Sligachan Sc al pay
Portree
With its colourful harbour,
ns Luib Kyleakin Kyle of Lochalsh Portree (meaning “port of the
Broadford
king”) is Skye’s metropolis. It
received its name after a visit
Kilchrist by James V in 1540.
J
Kylerhea
A tranquil, late-evening view of Ullapool and Loch Broom on the northwestern coast of Scotland
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS 161
Environs
The highest waterfall in Britain
is Eas Coul Aulin, at 180 m
(590 ft). It is best seen after
rainfall, from a tour boat based
at Kylesku, 24 km (15 miles) to
the south of Handa. Duncansby Head, Caithness, at the far northeast corner of Scotland
162 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
£ Orkney Islands
Beyond the Pentland Firth, less than 10 km (6 miles) off
the Scottish mainland, the Orkney archipelago consists of
some 70 islands and rocky skerries boasting the densest
concentration of archaeological sites in Britain. Today, only
about 16 of these islands are permanently inhabited. Orkney’s
way of life is predominantly agricultural – it’s said that,
whereas the Shetlanders are fishermen with crofts, the
Orcadians are farmers with boats. The climate is tempered by
the Gulf Stream, and the rich soils overlying old red sandstone
produce lush green turf and summer crops of grain.
The delightfully frescoed Italian Chapel, in
Kirkwall West Mainland East Mainland
The winding flagstoned streets Many of the waterfront build-
E Pier Arts Centre
of Orkney’s capital are lined with ings in Stromness, the main
period houses and craft shops. town on Orkney’s largest island, Tel (01856) 850209. Open 10:30am–
5pm Tue–Sat. ∑ pierartscentre.com
Opposite St Magnus Cathedral, date from the 18th and 19th
an 870-year-old masterpiece centuries. Among them, the E Stromness Museum
of red and yellow stone, lie Pier Arts Centre contains Tel (01856) 850025. Open Apr–Oct:
the ruins of the Bishop’s a fine collection of daily; Nov–Mar: Mon–Sat. & 7
Palace, dating mostly 20th-century works. The ∑ stromnessmuseum.co.uk
from the 16th century. Stromness Museum T Maeshowe
Also nearby, in a former traces Orkney’s history Tel (01856) 761606. Open daily. & 7
manse called Tankerness as a trading port. T Standing Stones of Stenness
House, the excellent West Mainland is and Ring of Brodgar
Orkney Museum renowned for its pre- Open daily. 7
illustrates the history historic sites. Said to
T Skara Brae
of habitation on date from around 2750
Tel (01856) 841815. Open daily. & 7
the islands. South of Orcadian man BC, Maeshowe is a
the town centre, the on a bicycle chambered tomb
Highland Park aligned with the East Mainland
Distillery dispenses a fine dram winter solstice. Vikings East of Kirkwall, the road runs
at the end of its guided tours. plundered it around 1150, through quiet agricultural land
leaving a fascinating legacy over a series of causeways
R St Magnus Cathedral of runic graffiti on the walls. linking the southernmost
Tel (01856) 874894. Open Mon–Fri (daily Nearby are the huge Standing islands to Mainland. The
in summer). 8 ∑ stmagnus.org Stones of Stenness and the Churchill Barriers were built by
P Bishop’s Palace Ring of Brodgar, a megalithic Italian prisoners of war during
Tel (01856) 871918. Open Apr–Oct. & henge of 36 stones. The Neo- the 1940s to protect the British
lithic village of Skara Brae fleet stationed in Scapa Flow. In
P Orkney Museum
was discovered when a storm their spare time, these POWs
Tel (01856) 873535. Open Mon–Sat.
stripped dunes from the site also constructed the
Highland Park Distillery in 1850. Beneath the sands remarkable Italian Chapel,
Tel (01856) 874619. Open Apr & Sep: lay wonderfully preserved whose beautiful frescoed
Mon–Fri; May–Aug: daily; Oct–Mar: evidence of everyday life in interior is well worth seeing.
Mon–Fri pm only. 8 (includes the Stone Age, such as beds, On South Ronaldsay, the
tasting). & 7 fireplaces and shelves. 5,000-year-old Tomb of the
The cliffs of Marwick Eagles was excavated by a
Head, overlooking local farmer. Some 340 burial
Birsay Bay, are one of sites were unearthed at this
several RSPB reserves clifftop location, along with
on West Mainland, stone tools and the talons of
home to thousands of many sea eagles.
nesting seabirds in early
summer. A memorial R Italian Chapel
commemorates Tel (01856) 781268. Open daily
Lord Kitchener and the (Mass: 1st Sun of month, Apr–Sep). 7
crew of HMS Hampshire, T Tomb of the Eagles
sunk off this headland Tel (01856) 831339. Open Mar–Oct;
by a German mine Nov–Feb by appt. & 7 - =
The rich-coloured exterior of St Magnus Cathedral in 1916. ∑ tomboftheeagles.co.uk
0 kilometres 10 Melsetter
South Ronaldsay
0 miles 10 Pe Burwick Aberdeen
ntl
and Firth
Island of Stroma
Edinburgh
Dunnet Head Duncansby Head Glasgow
Thurso
For additional map symbols see back flap
164 SCOTLAND REGION BY REGION
$ Shetland Islands
More than 100 rugged, cliff-hemmed islands form Scotland’s
most northerly domain. Nowhere in Shetland is further than
5 km (3 miles) from the sea. Fishing and salmon farming are
mainstays of the economy, boosted in recent decades by
revenue from the North Sea oil industry. In winter the islands
suffer severe gales and storms, but in high summer, the sun
may shine for as long as 19 hours, and a twilight known as
the “simmer dim” persists throughout the night.
T Mousa Broch
Tel (01856) 841815. Open Apr–Sep.
& included in boat fare.
% Western Isles
Western Scotland ends with this remote chain of islands, made
of some of the oldest rock on earth. Barren landscapes are
divided by countless waterways, while the western, windward
coasts are edged by white sandy beaches. For centuries, the
eastern shores, composed largely of peat bogs, have provided
islanders with fuel. Man has been here for 6,000 years, living The interior of a croft house at The
off the sea and the thin turf, though abandoned monuments, Blackhouse
including a Norwegian whaling station on Harris, attest to the
difficulties faced in commercializing traditional local skills. The Uists and Benbecula
After the dramatic scenery of
Gaelic, part of an enduring culture, is widely spoken, and Harris, the lower-lying, largely
most signs are in both English and Gaelic. waterlogged southern isles may
seem an anticlimax, though
they nurture secrets well worth
discovering. Long, white, sandy
beaches fringe the Atlantic
coast, edged with one of
Scotland’s natural treasures: the
lime-rich soil known as machair.
During the summer months, the
soil is covered with wild flowers,
the unique fragrance of which
can be detected far out to sea.
From Lochmaddy, North Uist’s
The monumental Standing Stones of Callanish in northern Lewis main village, the A867 crosses
5 km (3 miles) of causeway to
Lewis and Harris tourist office provides addresses Benbecula, the isle from which
Forming the largest landmass for local weavers of the tough the brave Flora MacDonald
of the Western Isles, Lewis and Harris Tweed. Some weavers smuggled Bonnie Prince Charlie
Harris are a single island, though still use indigenous plants to to Skye (see p157). Benbecula is a
Gaelic dialects differ between create the various dyes. From flat island covered by a mosaic of
the two areas. From the Leverburgh, on Harris’s southern small lochs. Like its neighbours, it
administrative centre of tip, a ferry sails to North Uist, is known for good trout fishing.
Stornoway, with its bustling linked by a causeway to Berneray. Here, and to the north, the
harbour and colourful house Protestant religion holds sway,
fronts, the ancient Standing E The Blackhouse while Catholicism prevails in the
Stones of Callanish are only Arnol. Tel (01851) 710395. Open Apr– southern islands. Benbecula’s
26 km (16 miles) to the west. Sep: Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: Mon, Tue & chief source of employment is
Just off the road on the way to Thu–Sat. & 8 the Army Rocket Range, which
Callanish are the cone-shaped
ruins of Carloway Broch, a
Pictish (see p45) tower over
2,000 years old. The more recent
past can be explored at Arnol’s
Blackhouse – a showcase
of crofting life as it was until
50 years ago.
South of the rolling peat
moors of Lewis, a range of
mountains marks the border
with Harris, which is entered by
passing Aline Lodge at the head
of Loch Seaforth. The mountains
of Harris are a paradise for hill
walkers. From their summits
on a clear day, the distant isle
of St Kilda can be seen 80 km
(50 miles) to the west.
The ferry port of Tarbert stands
on a slim isthmus separating
North and South Harris. The The harbour at Stornoway, the principal town on Lewis and Harris
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS 167
+ Kisimul Castle
Tel (01871) 810313. Open Apr–Sep:
daily. & includes boat trip.
n Barra Heritage Centre
Tel (01871) 810413. Open May–Sep: A traditional, thatched crofter’s house on the island of North Uist
Mon–Sat. 7 ∑ barraheritage.com
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The range of hotels and other accommodation growing in popularity in Scotland. This type
available in Scotland is extensive, and it is of accommodation is particularly well suited
easy to find something to suit every budget. to those on a tight budget or families with
Different types of accommodation are young children. Campsites, from basic tent
described below, and the hotel listings on pitches to yurts and other more comfortable
pages 172–7 include some of the best places “glamping” options, provide a reasonably
to stay, from luxurious country house hotels priced alternative to hotels and guesthouses.
and castles to cosy bed and breakfasts (B&Bs). Booking online is usually the way to get the
This selection represents both excellence and cheapest price. Alternatively, phone and ask
good value. Self-catering holidays are also if there are any special rates available.
Hotels
Scotland offers a wide choice of
hotels for all budgets, ranging
from inexpensive no-frills places A traditional croft cottage, one of many self-catering properties in Scotland
and characterful historic venues
to plush boutique and five-star (SYHA). Most have single-sex DIRECTORY
options with luxury spas and a dormitories, but occasionally
range of restaurants. there are separate rooms for Tourist Information
families. You must be a member Centre
of the SYHA to stay, but anyone VisitScotland
Self-Catering can join upon arrival. Ocean Point One, 94 Ocean
The freedom of self-catering Drive, Edinburgh EH6 6JH.
accommodation may appeal Tel 0845 859 1006
to those who are planning an Recommended Hotels
∑ visitscotland.com
extended stay or who require The accommodation choices
maximum flexibility, such as on the following pages cover a Camping and
families travelling with young range of options from gypsy Caravanning
children. This is also often a caravans and cosy inns to
Camping and
more cost-effective accom- relaxed B&Bs; from sleek Caravanning Club
modation option. There are boutique hotels to luxurious Tel 0845 130 7631
many self-catering places over country houses and grand five- ∑ campingandcaravanning
Scotland, from luxury apart- star resorts. The hotels are club.co.uk
ments in the centre of cities to based on two main criteria –
cottages with views of the coast. quality and value for money, Caravan Club
Tel 01342 326 944
irrespective of the price bracket.
∑ caravanclub.co.uk
The places to stay that come
Camping and particularly highly recommended
Caravanning Youth
are highlighted as DK Choice. Hostels
A choice of campsites and cara- They may be set in a historic
van parks, normally open from landmark building, offer Scottish Youth Hostels
Easter to October, can be found splendid views in a memorable Association (SYHA)
throughout the country. Two location, or have exceptional Tel 01786 891 400
organizations, the Caravan character, amenities and service, ∑ syha.org.uk
Club and the Camping and or a combination of these.
Caravanning Club, publish
guides listing their parks, and
it may be useful for those
with motor homes to become
members. A typical camping
or caravan site costs £8–15 per
night. “Glamping”, camping with
a few home comforts, has taken
off in the UK. Many campsites
have yurts or pods that will
accommodate a family for about
£40 per night – a great way to
camp without bringing all of the
equipment. Parks fill up quickly
during the summer so it is
advisable to book ahead.
Youth Hostels
There are around 80 hostels in
Scotland, owned by the Scottish
Youth Hostels Association Invercoe campsite in Glencoe offering wonderful views
172 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
NEW TOWN: The George ££ Price Guide
Edinburgh Luxury Map D4 Prices are for a standard double room
per night in high season, inclusive of all
19-21 George Street, EH2 2PB
taxes and service charges.
NEW TOWN: St. Bernards Tel 0131 225 1251
House £ ∑ edinburghgeorgehotel.co.uk £ under £100
Guesthouse Map D4 Delightful, long-established hotel ££ £100–£200
£££ over £200
22 St Bernard‘s Crescent, EH4 1NS with high standards. It is a popular
Tel 0131 332 2339 venue for conferences.
∑ stbernardshouse.co.uk NEW TOWN: The Chester
This two-star guesthouse with NEW TOWN: Gerald’s Place ££ Residence £££
some en suite rooms is set in a B&B Map D4 Self-catering Map D4
charming Victorian town house. 21B Abercromby Place, EH3 6QE 9 Rothesay Place, EH3 7SL
Tel 0131 558 7017 Tel 0131 226 2075
NEW TOWN: Tune Hotel £ ∑ geraldsplace.com ∑ chester-residence.com
Budget Map D4 A centrally located B&B, Gerald’s Plush, spacious apartments have
7 Clifton Terrace, EH12 5DR Place has just two rooms and a designer kitchens in this grand
Tel 0131 347 9700 welcoming, friendly owner. Georgian town house.
∑ tunehotels.com/our-hotels/
haymarket-edinburgh NEW TOWN: Hotel Indigo ££ NEW TOWN: Tigerlily £££
Excellent value is offered at this Boutique Map D4 Boutique Map D4
stylish option in the West End, but 51–59 York Place, EH1 3JD 125 George Street,EH2 4JN
there are charges for some extras Tel 0131 556 5577 Tel 0131 225 5005
such as toiletries and Wi-Fi. ∑ hotelindigoedinburgh.co.uk ∑ tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk
This chic hotel has well-furnished, Award-winning hotel with individ-
NEW TOWN: The Bonham ££ contemporary rooms and superb ually styled rooms. Great restaurant.
Boutique Map D4 luxury suites.
35 Drumsheugh Gardens, EH3 7RN OLD TOWN: The Bank Hotel ££
Tel 0131 226 6050 NEW TOWN: Nira Caledonia ££ Character Map D4
∑ townhousecompany.com/ Boutique Map D4 1 South Bridge, EH1 1LL
thebonham 10 Gloucester Place, EH3 6EF Tel 0131 556 9940
The Bonham offers individually Tel 0131 225 2720 ∑ bankhoteledinburgh.co.uk
designed rooms in contemporary, ∑ niracaledonia.com This comfortable hotel located
bold colours. There’s an excellent Housed in a row of town houses, on the Royal Mile was originally
restaurant with a superb wine list. Nira Caledonia offers modern built as a bank in 1923. No lift.
comforts such as iPod docks
NEW TOWN: Channings Hotel ££ OLD TOWN: Classic Guest
Character Map D4 NEW TOWN: The Roxburghe ££ House ££
12–16 South Learmonth Gardens, Historic Map D4 Guesthouse Map D4
EH4 1EZ 38 Charlotte Square, EH2 4HQ 50 Mayfield Road, EH9 2NH
Tel 0131 315 2226 Tel 0871 423 4896 Tel 0131 667 5847
∑ channings.co.uk ∑ theroxburghe.com ∑ classicguesthouse.co.uk
Set in converted Edwardian town A spa and indoor pool are among Elegant Victorian house with
houses, this smart hotel features the facilities at this Georgian hotel. comfortably furnished rooms.
rooms with elegant furnishings There’s an acclaimed restaurant.
and views over private gardens. OLD TOWN: The Macdonald
NEW TOWN: The Balmoral £££ Holyrood Hotel ££
NEW TOWN: Crowne Plaza Luxury Map D4 Luxury Map D4
Edinburgh ££ 1 Princes Street, EH2 2EQ 81 Holyrood Road, EH8 8AU
Historic Map D4 Tel 0131 556 2414 Tel 0844 879 9028
18 Royal Terrace, EH7 5AQ ∑ thebalmoralhotel.com ∑ macdonaldhotels.co.uk
Tel 0131 557 3222 This international five-star retreat A conveniently located hotel with
∑ cpedinburgh.com has a graceful façade and palatial chic rooms and a luxury spa.
Behind Calton Hill, this classy hotel interiors. Champagne bar on site.
has comfortable guest rooms and OLD TOWN: Ten Hill Place ££
terraced private gardens. Historic Map D4
DK Choice 10 Hill Place, EH8 9DS
NEW TOWN: Tel 0131 662 2080
The Caledonian £££ ∑ tenhillplace.com
Luxury Map D4 Stylish hotel with sweeping views
Princes Street, EH1 2AB of Arthur’s Seat from its top floor.
Tel 0131 222 8888
∑ thecaledonianedinburgh.com OLD TOWN: G&V Royal Mile £££
Built in 1903, The Caledonian Luxury Map D4
is a historic city landmark. 1 George IV Bridge, EH1 1AD
Spectacularly reinvented in Tel 0131 220 6666
2012, the hotel boasts stylish ∑ quorvuscollection.com
rooms, a first-class brasserie and A favourite with both locals and
a fine-dining restaurant. Relax in visiting celebrities. Rooms feature
Handsomely furnished room with classic the sublime Guerlain Spa. mod cons such as Nespresso
decor at The Caledonian, Edinburgh machines and iPod docks.
W H E R E TO S TAY 173
BALQUHIDDER: Monachyle
MHOR Hotel ££
Luxury Map C4
Lochearnhead, Perthshire, FK19 8PQ
Tel 01877 384 622
∑ mhor.net
Reached via a testing single-track
lane, this family-run hotel has
14 cosy rooms. The excellent
restaurant sources produce from
the farm and kitchen garden. Elegant executive room in Auchrannie Resort, Arran
For more information on types of hotels see pages 170–71
176 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Afternoon Tea
No visitor should miss the
experience of a proper Scottish
afternoon tea. There are many
tearooms all over Scotland,
offering a choice of delicious
sandwiches and cakes, or Scotch
pancakes swimming in butter.
KILCHRENAN: Ardanaiseig ££
Modern Scottish Map C4
By Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HE
Tel 01866 833 333
Renowned forager and local
produce advocate Gary Goldie
creates superb gourmet meals in
this country house hotel. The five-
course dinner is served at 7pm.
KYLESKU: Kylesku Hotel £ PLOCKTON: Plockton Hotel ££ at reasonable prices. The lamb is
Scottish Map C1 Seafood Map C2 exceptional, as are the scallops
By Lairg, Sutherland, IV27 4HW 41 Harbour St, Ross-shire, IV52 8TN and halibut.
Tel 01971 502 231 Tel 01599 544 274
In a former coaching inn, this The varied menu features fresh SHETLAND ISLANDS: Frankie’s
spacious bar-lounge serves fish and shellfish including scampi Fish and Chips £
quality meals including creel- tails and langoustines. Other Fish and Chips Map G1
caught lobster, langoustine and mains include venison casserole, Brae, Shetland, ZE2 9QJ
crab. Scottish meats and fish are burgers and fish and chips. Out- Tel 01806 522 700
on offer as well. door tables have lovely sea views. Frankie’s is an award-winning
restaurant on Shetland’s
MULL: Highland Cottage £££ PLOCKTON: Plockton Inn & Mainland. It serves sustainable
Scottish Map B3 Seafood Restaurant ££ fish with some unusual treats
24 Breadalbane Street, Tobermory, Seafood Map C2 such as scallops and blue mussels.
Argyll, PA75 6PD Innes Street, Ross-shire, IV52 8TW Full breakfasts are also available.
Tel 01688 302 030 Tel 01599 544 222
Talented chef Jo Currie delivers This award-winning, traditional TORRIDON: The Torridon
a menu brimming with quality inn in picturesque Plockton village Restaurant £££
local produce in this intimate offers sumptuous seafood platters, Modern Scottish Map C2
dining room. Good wine list. local beef, lamb and game. There Achnasheen, Wester Ross, IV22 2EY
are vegetarian options too. Tel 01445 700 300
OBAN: Waterfront Fishouse The stately dining room at the
Restaurant ££ PORT APPIN: The Airds Hotel & grand Torridon hotel is the ideal
Seafood Map C4 Restaurant £££ setting for the fine-dining dishes
1 Railway Pier, PA34 4LW French Map C3 expertly cooked by chef Bruno
Tel 01631 563 110 Argyll and Bute, PA38 4DF Birckbeck. Savour the sumptuous
Plump langoustines, large king Tel 01631 730 236 five-course tasting menu.
scallops and local lobster are on The fine-dining menu at this
offer at this waterfront restaurant hotel-restaurant has a modern TYNDRUM: The Real Food Café £
with views over the beautiful bay. French theme but uses local Café Map C4
Scottish produce. Try the hand- Perthshire, FK20 8RY
dived scallops, Mallaig halibut Tel 01838 400 235
and slow-poached chicken. This is arguably the best fish and
chips to be had in Scotland.
SCRABSTER: The Captain’s Enjoy a large or small fish supper
Galley £££ and try the excellent coffee and
Seafood Map D1 cakes. There is a children’s menu.
The Harbour, KW14 7UJ
Tel 01847 894 999 Closed Sun & Mon
Set in a former ice house with
exposed brickwork, The Captain’s
Galley offers a dozen different
kinds of fish fresh from the
morning’s catch on its menu.
Gaelic Studies
The northwest of Scotland is
the heartland for the Gaelic
language. Historically, this was
a Celtic language that spread
from mainland Europe to Learning about whisky, the “water of life”, at a Speyside distillery
SPECIAL INTERESTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 191
Viewing Wildlife
In comparison with much of the
rest of the British Isles, Scotland
still has large areas of moor and
mountain wilderness and a Sighting a porpoise as it breaks the calm surface of a sea loch
long, relatively undeveloped
coastline that supports a range mountains near Aviemore, on the mountainsides. With a
of animals (see pp22–3). In the rangers from the Cairngorm large share of Britain’s resident
Reindeer Centre take parties of and visiting birds, Scotland is
people on to the mountain to also home to a number of
walk among a herd of reindeer. important bird sanctuaries, the
A convenient way to see the most celebrated being Handa
abundant sealife is on a boat Island off Scourie on the far
trip run by Maid of the Forth northwest coast (see p161).
Cruises, which operates from St Abb’s Head (see p88) east of
South Queensferry on the Forth Edinburgh and Baron’s Haugh
near Edinburgh – dolphins and near Motherwell (on the
common seals are resident in outskirts of Glasgow) are
these waters. More adventurous nearer the cities.
are the trips in search of whales Many wildlife tours are small-
offered by Sea Life Surveys scale private businesses that
from the Isle of Mull, but even operate according to seasonal
a casual tourist in the Highlands and daily demand, so always
Walkers on the lookout for red deer and can spot birds of prey, otters in check the details with the local
birds of prey at Glen Coe the lochs and herds of red deer tourist information offices.
DIRECTORY
Tracing Comunn An Luchd Connoisseurs Viewing Wildlife
Genealogy Ionnsachaidh Scotland
1–4 Highland Rail House, PO Box 26164, 10A Cairngorm Reindeer
General Register Academy St, Inverness, Ridgeway, Suite 3, Fife, Centre
House IV1 1LE. Tel (01463) 226 KY11 9JN. Glenmore, Aviemore,
General Register House, 710. ∑ cli.org.uk PH22 1QU.
Tel (01383) 825800.
2 Princes St, Edinburgh, Tel (01479) 861228.
Comunn na Gàidhlig ∑ luxuryscotland.co.uk
EH1 3YY. ∑ cairngormreindeer.
5 Mitchell’s Lane, Glenfiddich Distillery co.uk
Tel (0131) 535 1314.
Inverness, IV2 3HQ. Dufftown, Keith,
∑ nrscotland.gov.uk Maid of the Forth
Tel (01463) 234138. Banffshire, AB55 4DH.
Scottish Genealogy ∑ cnag.org.uk Cruises
Tel (01340) 820373.
South Queensferry,
Society Sabhal Mor Ostaig ∑ glenfiddich.com
EH30 9TB.
15 Victoria Terrace, Sleat, Isle of Skye, Inverawe Tel (0131) 331 5000.
Edinburgh, EH1 2JL. IV44 8RQ. Smokehouses ∑ maidofthe forth.
Tel (0131) 220 3677. Tel (01471) 888000. co.uk
Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HU.
∑ scotsgenealogy.com ∑ smo.uhi.ac.uk Tel (0844) 847 5490.
Sea Life Surveys
∑ smokedsalmon.
Gaelic Studies Food and Drink co.uk
Ledaig, Tobermory, Isle of
Tours Mull, PA75 6NU.
An Comunn Scotch Malt Whisky Tel (01688) 302916.
Gaidhealach Caledonian Brewery Society ∑ sealifesurveys.com
Balnain House, 40 Huntly 42 Slateford Rd, The Vaults, 87 Giles St,
St, Inverness, IV3 5HR. Edinburgh, EH11 1PH. Edinburgh, EH6 6BZ.
Tel (01463) 709 705. Tel (0131) 337 1286. Tel (0131) 554 3451.
∑ acgmod.org ∑ caledonianbeer.com ∑ smws.com
192 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Ullapool
Fort William
Oban
Campbeltown
Key
Watersports Stranraer
Sailing
Major golf course Sailing (see p203) is popular
off the west coast and the
Birdwatching
islands. The calm waters of
Skiing sheltered bays are suitable
Fishing for beginners, while the
Pony trekking
open sea can be both exhil-
arating and treacherous.
Major walking area Inland, Loch Ness offers
Long-distance walk route sailing opportunities.
SPECIAL INTERESTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 193
SHETLAND
ISLANDS
Lerwick
Fraserburgh
Elgin
Inverness
Aberdeen
Motherwell
Galashiels
0 miles 50
194 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Useful Websites Gullane Crieff Brora
∑ scotlands-golf- West Links Rd, Gullane, Perth Rd, Crieff, Perthshire. Golf Rd, Brora, Sutherland.
courses.com East Lothian. Tel (01764) 652909. Tel (01408) 621417.
∑ scottishgolf.com Tel (01620) 842255. ∑ crieffgolf.co.uk ∑ broragolf.co.uk
∑ golf.visitscotland.com ∑ gullanegolfclub.com
Elie Castle Stuart Golf
Merchants of Golf Course Lane, Elie, Links
Golfing Edinburgh Inverness.
Organizations Fife. Tel (01333) 333301.
10 Craighill Gardens, ∑ golfhouseclub.org Tel (01463) 796111.
Scottish Golf Union Edinburgh. ∑ castlestuartgolf.com
Tel (0131) 447 1219. Glasgow Gailes
Tel (01334) 466477. Cruden Bay
∑ merchants golf.com Gailes, Irvine.
∑ scottishgolf.org Aulton Rd, Cruden Bay,
Tel (0141) 942 2011.
Scottish Ladies Muirfield Peterhead.
∑ glasgowgolfclub.com
Golfing Association Duncur Rd, Gullane, East Tel (01779) 812285.
Tel (01738) 442357. Lothian. Tel (01620) 842 Gleneagles ∑ crudenbaygolf
∑ slga.co.uk 123. ∑ muirfield.org.uk Gleneagles, Auchterarder, club.co.uk
Perthshire. Elgin
North Berwick
Specialist New Clubhouse, Beach
Tel (01764) 662 231. Birnie Rd, Elgin, Moray.
Operators ∑ gleneagles.com/golf Tel (01343) 542338.
Rd, North Berwick. Tel
(01620) 895040. ∑ north Haggs Castle ∑ elgingolfclub.com
Adventures in Golf
Tel 001 (877) 424 7320. berwickgolfclub.com 70 Dumbreck Rd, Isle of Skye
∑ adventures-in-golf. Prestwick
Dumbreck, Glasgow. Sconser, Isle of Skye.
com Tel (0141) 427 1157. Tel (01478) 650465.
2 Links Rd, Prestwick,
∑ haggscastle ∑ isleofskyegolfclub.
Golf International Ayrshire.
Tel (01292) 477404. golfclub.com co.uk
Tel (800) 833 1389.
∑ golfinternational. ∑ prestwickgc.co.uk Kingsbarns Kingussie
com Kingsbarns, St Andrews, Gynack Rd, Kingussie.
Roxburghe
Fife. Tel (01334) 460860. Tel (01540) 661600.
Links Golf St Andrews Village of Heiton, Kelso,
∑ kingsbarns.com ∑ kingussie-golf.co.uk
Tel (01334) 478639. Borders. Tel (01573) 450
∑ linksgolfstandrews. 333. ∑ roxburghe Leven Links Machrihanish
com golfclub.co.uk The Promenade, Leven, Campbeltown, Argyll.
Fife. Tel (01333) 428859. Tel (01586) 810213.
Premier Golf Royal Burgess
∑ leven-links.com ∑ machgolf.com
Tel 001 (866) 260 4409. 181 Whitehouse Rd,
∑ premiergolf.com Barnton, Edinburgh. Nairn
Lundin Ladies
Tel (0131) 339 9440. Seabank Rd, Nairn.
Scottish Golf Tours Woodielea Rd, Lundin
∑ royalburgess.co.uk Tel (01667) 453208.
Tel (0131) 657 1984. Links, Fife. Tel (01333)
∑ nairngolfclub.co.uk
∑ scottish-golf tours. Royal Musselburgh 320832. ∑ lundin
com Prestongrange House, ladiesgolfclub.co.uk Pitlochry
Prestonpans, East Lothian. Golf Course Rd, Pitlochry.
Edinburgh and St Andrews Links
Tel (01875) 810276. Tel (01796) 472792.
Southern Scotland St Andrews Links Trust,
∑ royalmusselburgh. ∑ pitlochrygolf.co.uk
Fife. Tel (01334) 466666.
co.uk Royal Dornoch
Braid Hills ∑ standrews.org.uk
15 Braid Hills Approach, Royal Troon Golf Rd, Dornoch,
Edinburgh. Tel (0131) 447 Craigend Rd, Troon,
Shiskine Sutherland.
6666. ∑ edinburgh Ayrshire. Tel (01292) 311 Blackwaterfoot, Shiskine, Tel (01862) 810219.
leisuregolf.co.uk 555. ∑ royaltroon.com Isle of Arran. ∑ royaldornoch.com
Tel (01770) 860226.
Colvend ∑ shiskinegolf.com
Spey Valley
Sandyhills, Colvend.
Glasgow and Dalfaber Golf & Country
Tel (01556) 630398. Central Scotland Club, Aviemore. Tel (0845)
The Highlands
∑ colvendgolfclub. Carnoustie and Islands 601 1734. ∑ resorts.
co.uk Links Parade, Carnoustie, macdonaldhotels.co.uk/
Angus. Tel (01241) 802 Ballater Golf Club spey-valley/
Dalmahoy
Marriott Hotel & CC, 270. ∑ carnoustie Victoria Rd, Ballater, Stromness
Kirknewton, Edinburgh. golflinks.co.uk Aberdeenshire. Ness, Stromness, Orkney.
Tel (0131) 333 1845. Tel (01339) 755567. Tel (01856) 850772.
Crail ∑ ballatergolfclub.co.uk ∑ stromnessgc.co.uk
Deer Park Balcomie Clubhouse,
Golf Course Rd, Fifeness, Crail, Fife. Boat of Garten Traigh
Livingston, West Lothian. Tel (01333) 450686. Boat of Garten, Inverness- Traigh Golf Club, Arisaig.
Tel (01506) 446699. ∑ crailgolfingsociety. shire. Tel (01479) 831282. Tel (01687) 450337.
∑ deer-park.co.uk co.uk ∑ boatgolf.com ∑ traighgolf.co.uk
198 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Walking Opportunities
Walking in Scotland This section deals with low-
It can truly be said that Scotland is a paradise for ramblers. level walking; mountain
Many trails have been waymarked for the public making activities are covered on
Scotland a fantastic place to walk, whether you wish to stroll pages 200–201, and you can
also obtain information from
for an afternoon or spend weeks on the trail. Superb scenery the Mountaineering Council
is reasonably accessible, and the variety of terrain of Scotland. Over the
encompasses everything from craggy mountains years, greatly improved
to gentle river valleys. Scotland also possesses path networks have been
a magnificent dramatic coastline, as well as developed, some through
numerous islands to explore. The local tourist the national
Paths for All
information centre is always a good first port Partnership.
of call if you are looking for advice or The networks
suggested routes. provide excellent,
safe walking
Walking boots opportunities for
restrictions in mountain areas visitors. Some of the
during the stag-stalking season best networks are in the Borders
(July to late October), but not and around Galloway, in Perth-
on any areas owned by the shire (around Dunkeld and
National Trust for Scotland Pitlochry), in Aberdeenshire
(see p208). (around Huntly), at Braemar
and on the island of Bute.
Local authorities and other
Clothing and Equipment agencies have created paths
The weather in Scotland is fickle. and published walking guides
It can snow in June or be balmy for remote areas, such as
in February, and conditions are Wester Ross, the Western Isles,
liable to change rapidly. This Orkney and Shetland. Some of
makes selecting the right clothing these walks tie in with ferry
and equipment tricky. Even in services. Most have a cultural
summer, you should take a water- or natural history theme, or
proof jacket if venturing far from incorporate a castle, waterfall
shelter. When going on a day or other place of interest. The
Long-distance trail signpost for walkers in walk, take waterproof trousers walks are generally from 6 to
the Spey river valley and a fleece or warm sweater. 12 km (4 to 7 miles) in length.
The art of being comfortable Tourist information centres are
is to make your clothing adapt- good starting places for more
Right of Access able; several thin layers are details, or you can contact
In Scotland there is a statutory better than one thick
right of access to most land for one. Head covering is
recreational purposes. Access worth considering – a
laws implemented in 2005 are cap for sunny days or a
balanced by a Scottish Outdoor warmer hat for cold days.
Access Code giving guidance on For a walk of more than
responsible conduct for users a couple of hours, take a
and managers of such land. drink and snack. If you
Scotland’s long tradition of will be out all day, take
open access has resulted in energy foods and liquids.
few routes being shown on Good footwear is
Ordnance Survey or other maps, essential. Countryside
although historic rights of way walks generally demand
are usually marked. Scotways strong shoes or boots.
holds the definitive maps Sturdy trainers (running
showing these routes. shoes) can be worn
Guidebooks available at large on roads or firm tracks,
bookshops such as WH Smith but not on rough
or Waterstone’s describe easily ground where you may
walkable routes, many of which need ankle support.
are signposted. Outdoor chain Light-weight walking
Tiso also sells maps and hiking boots are suitable for
guides. There may be access most seasons. Looking out over Rannoch Moor
SPECIAL INTERESTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 199
DIRECTORY
Forestry Commission
231 Corstorphine Rd, Edinburgh
EH12 7AT.
Tel (0845) 367 3787.
∑ forestry.gov.uk
Mountaineering Council
of Scotland
The Old Granary, West Mill St,
Perth PH1 5QP.
Tel (01738) 493942.
∑ mcofs.org.uk
National Trust for Scotland
Hermiston Quay, 5 Cultins Rd,
Edinburgh EH11 4DF.
Above the clouds in Knoydart, looking to the Cuillin Hills on Skye Tel (0844) 493 2100.
∑ nts.org.uk
VisitScotland to obtain their Long-distance Walks Paths for All Partnership
New Walking Scotland brochure, Scotland has relatively few Inglewood House, Tullibody Rd,
which describes walks in all formal long-distance routes, Alloa FK10 2HU.
parts of Scotland. Their though the potential for making Tel (01259) 218888.
brochure also lists walking up your own is limitless. The ∑ pathsforall.org.uk
festivals. three “official” routes are the 152- Ramblers’ Scotland
These events, km (95-mile) West Highland Way Kingfisher House, Auld Mart
that last up to from Glasgow to Fort William, Business Park, Milnathort KY13
a week, offer the 340-km- (211-mile-) Southern 9DA.
a wide range Upland Way from Portpatrick to Tel (01577) 861222.
of guided Cockburnspath, and the 84-km ∑ ramblers.org.uk
walks along (52-mile) Speyside Way from
Scottish Natural Heritage
with a Spey Bay to Tomintoul.
Great Glen House,
programme Other routes developed by 1 Leachkin Rd, Inverness IV3
of evening local authorities include the 8NW.
entertain- 100-km (62-mile) St Cuthbert’s Tel (01463) 725000.
ment. The Way from Melrose to Lindis- ∑ snh.gov.uk
Compass of the type first such farne, and the Fife Coastal
commonly used festival, Path from North Queensferry Scotways
24 Annandale St, Edinburgh EH7
by walkers held in to Tayport near the bridge over
4AN. Tel (0131) 558 1222.
the Borders, the Tay to Dundee.
∑ scotways.com
started in 1995. Others are now The three principal routes are
held in the Highlands, Deeside shown on the activities map Tiso
and Perthshire, with more (see pp192–3). For information 123–125 Rose Street Precinct,
starting up each year. about them, and others being Edinburgh EH2 3DT.
For information on organized developed, contact Scottish Tel (0131) 225 9486.
walks, contact Ramblers’ ∑ tiso.com
Natural Heritage and local
Scotland. There are also tourist information centres. VisitScotland
hundreds of miles of forest Ocean Point One, 94 Ocean Drive,
trails and walks across the Edinburgh EH6 6JH.
country. The Forestry Tel (0845) 859 1006.
Commission can provide ∑ visitscotland.com/see-do/
you with general information. activities/walking
Longer low-level routes Waterstone’s
being developed include the 83 George St,
Fife Coastal Path, the Clyde Edinburgh EH2 3ES.
Walkway and the Speyside Way Tel (0843) 290 8309.
extension to Aviemore. All 153–157 Sauchiehall St,
of these can easily be sampled Glasgow G2 3EW.
as day walks. Tel (0843) 290 8345.
Spring and autumn are ∑ waterstones.com
especially lovely times of the WH Smith
year for walking in Scotland. 10B Queensferry St, Edinburgh
The colouring is superb, and EH2 4PG. Tel (0131) 225 9672.
there is often a wider choice Surveying the scenery on a wintry day in ∑ whsmith.co.uk
of accommodation available. the Cairngorms
200 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Safety in the
Mountains
Scotland has a well organized
network of voluntary mountain
rescue teams. Calls for rescue
should be made to the police
on 999.
Weather Forecasts
(the Highlands)
Tel 0870 900 0100.
∑ metoffice.gov.uk
Glenmore Lodge
Aviemore, Inverness-shire
PH22 1QU.
Enjoying a superb mountain panorama in the northern Highlands Tel (01479) 861256.
∑ glenmorelodge.org.uk
than the Munros – they must be Glenshee and Cairngorm offer
single summits. A third list is good facilities and runs for Mountaineering in
available, of summits of 610– skiers of all abilities, including Scotland
760 m (2,000– 2,500 ft) called nursery slopes. The Mountaineering
“Grahams”. All summits in Ski centres are usually Council of Scotland
Scotland over 610 m have open from December to April, The Old Granary, West Mill St,
now been categorized and depending on the amount Perth PH1 5QP.
published. The hills are described, of snow cover. Unfortunately, Tel (01738) 493942.
with ascent routes, in the SMC snow is not wholly reliable in ∑ mcofs.org.uk
guides The Munros and The Scotland but when it does
Corbetts, and other Scottish Hills, snow, the skiing is exhilarating. Scottish Mountaineering
and in The Munros Almanac and Hotels and guesthouses in the Club
∑ smc.org.uk
The Corbetts Almanac. The third ski areas offer weekend and
set is listed in a publication midweek packages, and there Scottish Outdoor Access
called The Grahams. are ski schools in all the areas. Code
The best advice is to keep an ∑ outdooraccess-scotland.
eye on the weather and take com
Skiing in Scotland your chance as it arises.
There are five ski centres in Cross-country or Nordic skiing Skiing in Scotland
Scotland: Glencoe (see p138), is a popular, informal sport in
Ski Scotland
Nevis Range (see p139), The Scotland. Given good snow
∑ ski.visitscotland.com
Lecht, Cairngorm (see pp144–5) cover, there are many suitable
and Glenshee. The Lecht tends areas, ranging from the Cairngorm
to have the gentlest runs, while Southern Uplands to the hills Aviemore, Inverness-shire.
Glencoe has the steepest. These of the north and west, as well Tel (01479) 861261.
two centres are more informal as hundreds of miles of forest ∑ cairngormmountain.org
than the others. Nevis Range, trails all over Scotland. Glencoe
King’s House, Glencoe, Argyll.
Tel (01855) 851226.
∑ glencoemountain.com
Glenshee
Cairnwell, Aberdeenshire.
Tel (01339) 741320.
∑ ski-glenshee.co.uk
The Lecht
Strathden, Aberdeenshire.
Tel (01975) 651440.
∑ lecht.co.uk
Nevis Range
Torlundy, Inverness-shire.
Tel (01397) 705825.
∑ snowsports.nevisrange.
co.uk
Snowboarding on the Scottish slopes
202 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Fishing
Although Scotland is most
associated with salmon fishing, Visitors taking in the Scottish scenery on horseback
SPECIAL INTERESTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 203
DIRECTORY
Cycling and Scottish Cycling Hunting Tel (01470) 582419.
Mountain Biking Holidays ∑ theisleofskye
87 Perth St, Blairgowrie, British Association for trekkingcentre.co.uk
7stanes Perthshire PH10 6DT. Shooting & Conserv-
VisitScotland
Peel Tower, Glentress Tel (01250) 876100. ation (Scotland)
Tel (0845) 859 1006.
Forest, Peebles EH45 8NB. Trochry, Dunkeld, Perth-
∑ scotcycle.co.uk ∑ visitscotland.com
Tel (01721) 721180. shire PH8 0DY. Tel (01350)
∑ 7stanesmountain 723226. ∑ basc.org.uk Sailing
Fishing
biking.com
Salmon and Trout Pony Trekking Port Edgar Marina
BikeTrax
Association and Horse Riding South Queensferry
13 Lochrin Place,
Siskin, Bonar Bridge, EH30 9SQ.
Edinburgh EH3 9QX. Glen Tanar Equestrian Tel (0131) 331 3330.
Tel (0131) 228 6633. Sutherland IV24 3AW. Centre ∑ portedgar.co.uk
∑ biketrax.co.uk Tel (01863) 766767. Glen Tanar, Aboyne,
∑ salmon- Royal Deeside AB34 5EU. Scottish National
C.T.C. National Watersports Centre
troutscotland.org Tel (01339) 886448.
Cyclists Organisation Isle of Cumbrae, Ayreshire
Parklands, Railton Rd, ∑ glentanar.co.uk
Scottish Anglers KA28 0HQ. Tel (01475)
Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX. National Association Highlands Unbridled 530757. ∑ national
Tel (0844) 736 8450. National Game Angling Keepers Cottage, The Doll, centrecumbrae.org.uk
∑ ctc.org.uk Centre, The Pier, Loch Brora, Sutherland KW9
Forestry Commission Leven, Kinross KY13 8UF. 6NL. Tel (01408) 622789. Watersports
Tel (01577) 861116. ∑ highlands
Silvan House, 231 Royal Yacht
Corstorphine Rd, ∑ sana.org.uk unbridled.co.uk
Association
EdinburghEH12 7AT. Newtonmore Caledonia House, South
Scottish Federation
Tel (0845) 367 3787. Riding Centre Gyle, Edinburgh EH12
for Coarse Angling
∑ forestry.gov.uk Biallid Farm, Fort William 9DQ. Tel (0131) 317 7388.
Tel (07812) 241816.
Rd, Newtonmore, ∑ ryascotland.org.uk
Scottish Cycling ∑ sfca.co.uk
Inverness-shire PH20 1BP.
Sir Chris Hoy Velodrome, Scottish Water Ski
Scottish Federation Tel (01540) 670000. Centre
Emirates Arena,
of Sea Anglers ∑ newtonmore Townhill Country Park,
1000 London Rd,
Stitchill House, Kelso, ridingcentre.com Townhill, Dunfermline
Glasgow G40 3HY
Tel (0141) 554 6021 TD5 7TB. Skye Riding Centre KY12 0HT. Tel (01383)
∑ britishcycling.org. Tel (01573) 470612. Suladale, Portree, Isle of 620123. ∑ waterski
uk/scotland ∑ fishpal.com Skye IV51 9PA. scotland.co.uk
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
To enjoy Scotland fully, it is best to know to turn to if things go wrong; banking and
something about the workings of everyday life. communications; and how to get around
The range of facilities for tourists in Scotland the country by public and private transport,
has never been better – indeed tourism including ferries to the islands.
has become a major part of the country’s Whether or not you find Scotland an
economy – and VisitScotland is continually expensive country will depend on the
promoting better services around the exchange rate between the pound and
country. This chapter gives advice about your own currency. Visitors travelling from
when best to visit Scotland; customs and London will find that costs are generally
immigration requirements; where to find lower in Scotland’s capital. Glasgow offers
tourist information; what to do or whom even better value for money.
Orkney Islands
Tel (01856) 872856.
∑ visitorkney.com
Perthshire
Tel (01738) 450600.
∑ perthshire.co.uk
Scottish Borders
Tel (01721) 723159.
∑ visitscotland.com/
destinations-maps/
scottish-borders
Shetland Islands
Tel (01595) 693434.
∑ visitshetland.com
Western Isles
Tel (01851) 703088.
∑ visithebrides.com
Tobermory harbour on the Isle of Mull, popular with tourists
208 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Student Travellers
Full-time students who have an
International Student Identity
Card (ISIC) are
often entitled
to discounts
on travel,
sports facilities
Glamis Castle, one of the sights that charges admission to visitors and entrance
fees. North Student ISIC card
Travelling with Children accompanied by an adult. The American
Public holidays and school legal drinking age is 18. students can also get medical
holidays (July–mid-August) cover but it may be very basic
have most to offer in the way of (see p210). ISIC cards are
children’s entertainment. Many Admission Charges available from STA Travel, or
places have activities suitable These vary widely, from a the National Union of Students.
for children over the Christmas nominal fee to a more sub- Inexpensive accommodation is
period, particularly pantomimes. stantial charge for popular also available (out of term time)
Discounts for children and family attractions. Reductions are often at the university halls of residence
tickets are available for travel, available for groups, senior in the main cities. This is a good
theatre and other entertainments. citizens, children or students. way of staying in central loca-
ScotRail allows two children The majority of local churches, tions when on a tight budget.
aged between 5 and 15 to museums and art galleries are An International Youth
travel for free with an adult. free, unless a special exhibition Hostel Federation card
Accommodation that is showing, but donations are enables you to stay in one of
provides family rooms (see frequently expected. Some Scotland’s many youth hostels.
pp172–7) is generally child- attractions in Scotland are run Contact the Scottish Youth
friendly, or opt for self-catering privately, either as commercial Hostels Association directly
(efficiency apartments). Many ventures or on a charitable basis. (see Directory) for more
hotels provide baby-sitting or detailed information.
baby-listening services, and
offer reductions or free accom- Opening Hours
modation for the very young. Many shops in Scotland open National Trust
Many restaurants welcome on Sundays, particularly in the for Scotland
children, providing highchairs city centres. In the Western Isles, Many of Scotland’s historic
and special menus (see pp181– however, Sunday is still very buildings, parks, gardens, and
9). Pubs often admit children, if much regarded as a day of rest, vast tracts of countryside and
and shops, cafés and restaurants coastline are cared for by the
are likely to be closed. Monday National Trust for Scotland «.
to Friday hours are around 9am Entrance fees can often be
to 6pm, but shop hours do vary, relatively high compared to fees
opening late one evening a week at other sights, so if you plan on
– usually Thursday. Museums visiting several NTS properties, it
and art galleries generally open may be worth taking out annual
for fewer hours on Sundays. membership, which allows free
Many attractions open on access thereafter to all NTS
public and bank holidays, but properties, as well as free
almost all are closed on Christmas admission to National Trust
Day and New Year’s Day. properties in England, Wales
and Northern Ireland. Mem-
bership also includes a sticker
VAT and Refunds for free parking at all NTS sites,
Value added tax (VAT) is charged along with a Trust magazine
Playing with interactive exhibits at at 20 per cent on most goods three times a year. Be aware,
Edinburgh’s Museum of Childhood and services. When leaving the however, that many NTS
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 209
Heritage Sites
Historic Scotland
Tel (0131) 668 8999.
∑ historic-scotland.gov.uk
National Trust for
Scotland (NTS)
Tel (0844) 493 2100.
∑ nts.org.uk
Bars lining historic street in the town centre of Perth
210 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Pharmacists
You can buy a wide range of
medicines without prescription
from pharmacies in Scotland.
Boots is the best-known and Woman police constable Police constable Traffic police officer
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 211
Credit Cards
Credit and store cards are widely
accepted throughout Scotland,
One of many banks to offer bureau de change facilities but some smaller shops, guest-
houses and cafés may not take
Bureaux De Change Banks them. Visa, MasterCard, Diners
Although bureaux de change As well as Scottish banks, there Club and American Express are
are often more conveniently are branches of some major the most widely used cards. You
located than banks and have international and UK banks in may be able to obtain a cash
longer opening hours, the the main cities in Scotland. advance against your credit card
exchange rates can vary Most banks have a cashpoint at an ATM, although the interest
considerably and commission (ATM), as do many building rate may be quite high.
charges can be high. societies, large supermarkets
Reputable firms such and garages, from which you
as International Currency can obtain money with a bank Prepaid Currency Cards
Exchange and American or credit card and your personal Currency cards can be a useful
Express offer good exchange identification number (PIN). alternative to traveller’s cheques,
facilities. International Currency Some of the most modern which can mostly only be
Exchange has just one branch machines have instructions in exchanged at post offices and
at Edinburgh Airport; both several languages. Cardholders bureaux de change. Currency
Thomas Cook and American from principal English banks, cards are preloaded with money
Express have branches such as NatWest, HSBC, Lloyds from your bank account and
throughout Scotland. Bank and Barclays, can withdraw used like a debit card to pay for
things and withdraw money
Scottish Banks from an ATM.
Branches of the three main Scottish banks (Royal Bank of Scotland,
Bank of Scotland and Clydesdale), will be found in all cities and many DIRECTORY
towns. English banks such as NatWest and Barclays are rare outside
the main cities. Most Exchange Facilities
banks offer exchange American Express
facilities, but proof of Tel (0870) 850 7814.
identity may be required ∑ americanexpress.com
and the commission Bank of Scotland logo
International Currency
charges will vary. Exchange
Tel (0844) 800 3974. ∑ iceplc.com
Thomas Cook
Royal Bank of Scotland logo Tel (0844) 335 7260.
∑ thomascook.com
Western Union
Tel (0808) 234 3943.
∑ westernunion.co.uk
Clydesdale Bank logo NatWest logo
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 213
Currency
Britain’s currency is the pound sterling (£), Clydesdale Bank. The notes represent the same
which is divided into 100 pence (p). There are value as an English note and can be accepted
no exchange controls in Britain, so you may elsewhere in Britain, although it is usually with
bring in and take out as much cash as you like. reluctance. Note: the Scottish £1 note will not
Scotland’s own currency, the pound Scots, be accepted outside Scotland. Bank of England
was replaced by the pound sterling in 1707. and Northern Ireland notes can be used
Today, Scotland has its own pound sterling throughout Scotland; you will receive change
notes, which are printed by the Bank of in Scottish notes. All three countries use Bank
Scotland, the Royal Bank of Scotland and the of England coins.
Bank Notes
Scottish notes are produced in
N denominations of £1, £5, £10, £20,
E £50 and £100. Always get small
M denominations, as some shops may
I refuse the larger notes. Although
C Scotland has a £1 note, the English
E £1 coin, and all Bank of England
P currency, is accepted.
S
N
£100 note E
M
N I
E C
M E
I P
C S
E
£50 note
P
S
N
£20 note E
M
N I
E C
M E
I P
C S
E
£10 note
P
S
£5 note
Coinage
Coins currently in use are
£2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p
and 1p. The same coins are
produced and accepted
throughout the UK.
2 pounds (£2) 1 pound (£1) 50 pence (50p)
20 pence (20p) 10 pence (10p) 5 pence (5p) 2 pence (2p) 1 penny (1p)
214 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
As the UK is an international gateway for air on the mainland, and also to the island
and sea traffic, travelling to Scotland poses groups. Another way to island-hop is to take
few problems. There are direct flights from the ferries. There is an extensive network of
North America and continental Europe. roads in urban areas and renting a car can
Coach travel from Europe via the ferries be the best way of travelling. The inter-city
is a cheap, albeit slow, form of transport. rail network is limited in Scotland, but a
Travelling by train using the Channel Tunnel small network of trains serves the country,
is an efficient way of crossing to the UK. some with scenic routes. Coach travel is the
Travelling within Scotland itself is fairly easy. cheapest option; services run between
Internal flights are available between cities most cities.
Travelling by Sea
If you are travelling to Scotland from continental Europe by
foot, car, coach or train, you will need to cross the English
Channel or North Sea by ferry or Channel Tunnel. Ferry
services operate between several ports on the Continent Logo of a Scottish ferry company
and Scotland and England, while the Channel Tunnel provides
a nonstop rail link from France and Belgium. Fares between
ferries and the Channel Tunnel are fiercely competitive. Island- Island-hopping in
Scotland
hopping by ferry is an enjoyable and economical way to visit
the beautiful islands situated off the coast of Scotland. Scotland has just under 800
islands scattered off its coast-
line, and travelling by ferry is a
Services to England from wonderful way to experience
the Continent their rugged beauty. The islands
A network of ferry services can be roughly divided into two
regularly crosses the North Sea main groups: the Hebrides,
and the English Channel from situated off the west coast, and
northern Europe to ports in the Orkney and Shetland, lying to
UK. Of those travelling to the the northeast of the mainland.
north of England, P&O Ferries Caledonian MacBrayne has 30
runs a daily crossing from ships, linking 23 of the westerly
Rotterdam or Zeebrugge to isles to the mainland and to each
A car ferry travelling from Oban Hull, and DFDS Seaways runs other. Destinations include Arran,
to Lochboisdale on South Uist from Kristiansand, Gothenburg Islay, Mull, Barra, Lewis, Harris,
and Amsterdam to Newcastle. Skye, Raasay, Coll, Tiree and Eigg.
An alternative way to travel The summer timetable runs from
Travelling to Scotland to Scotland from the Continent Easter to mid-October with a
by Ferry via England is the Channel reduced service for the rest of the
There is no direct link between Tunnel, which links the UK year. Most of the routes have two
Scotland and the European with France. or three trips a day, but some
continent. The closest service Passengers travelling have only one, so be sure to
is to Newcastle in England from by coach or car board the call ahead and check. Single,
Amsterdam (see below), a jour- Eurotunnel train, and remain return and five-day tickets
ney of about 17 hours. From in their vehicle throughout the are available.
Newcastle there are frequent 35-minute journey from Calais In addition, there are two
trains to Edinburgh or Glasgow. to Folkstone. For those travelling special travel tickets. Island
From Northern Ireland, there is on foot, the Eurostar train runs Hopscotch tickets are valid on a
a frequent service operated by frequent services between Paris, choice of fifteen routes for one
Stena Line, which runs between Brussels and London. month from the date of the first
Belfast and Stranraer. P&O Ferries Any visitors from outside the journey. The Island Rover gives
also offers daily crossings European Union should allow you the freedom to choose your
between Larne and Cairnryan, plenty of time for immigration own route between the islands
just north of Stranraer. Check the control and customs clearance for 8 or 15 consecutive days
company’s website for details. at British ports (see pp206–7). from the date of the first
journey. Although the Island
Rover ticket is valid on all of
Caledonian’s services, it does
not ensure a place on any
particular sailing, and it is
advisable to make vehicle
reservations.
NorthLink Ferries, a venture
between Caledonian MacBrayne
and The Royal Bank of Scotland
has ferry routes from the
Scottish mainland to Orkney
and Shetland. All routes have
large capacity purpose-built
roll-on roll-off ferries with
modern facilities including
restaurants, cabins, shop and
Passengers on the deck of a ferry leaving Tobermory on the Isle of Mull children’s play area.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 221
Pentland
Ferries
Tel (01856) 831226.
∑ pentlandferries.co.uk
Stena Line
Tel (08447) 707070.
∑ stenaline.co.uk
Cruising on Loch Ness with Caledonian Discovery’s Fingal of Caledonia
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main Aviemore 40, 144, 176, 188 Britannia (Royal Yacht) 13, 72
entries. Awe, Loch 12, 136 Brodick Castle 118
Ayr, hotels 173 Brodick, ferries 221
A Ayr Gold Cup 42 Broom, Loch 158–9, 160
Abbey Craig 122–3, 125 Brora golf course 196, 197
Abbeys B Brown, George Douglas 31
Abbey Church (Dumfermline) 13, 128, Ba’ Game (Kirkwall) 43 Bruce, George 31
129 Badachro, restaurants 188 Bruce, Sir George 129
Dryburgh Abbey 11, 85, 89 Bagpipes 34 Bruce, Robert see Robert the Bruce
Inchmahome Priory 121 National Museum of Piping (Glasgow) Bryden, Bill 31
Jedburgh Abbey 84, 88, 89 104 Buchan, John 31
Kelso Abbey 88, 89 Piping Centre (Glasgow) 104 Bullough family 141
Melrose Abbey 86, 89, 90 World Pipe Band Championships 41 Bureaux de change 212
Tour of the Border Abbeys 11, 39, 89 Baird, John Logie 29 Burgundy, Duke of 64
Abbotsford House 85, 90 Balhousie Castle 126 Burnett family 149
Aberdeen 146–7 Ballater 148 Burns Night 43
airport 216 Ballater golf course 195, 196, 197 Burns, Robert 11, 30, 50, 51
ferries 221 Balloch 119 Birthplace Museum (Alloway) 93
hotels 176 Balmoral 13, 50, 148 Burns Centre and House (Dumfries) 93
map 147 Balnakeil Craft Village 161 Burns Heritage Trail 93
restaurants 187 Balquhidder 175, 186 Burns House and Museum (Mauchline)
Aberdour, restaurants 186 Banchory 149 93
Abington, hotels 173 Banks 212 Ellisland Farm 93
Aboyne, restaurants 187 Banks, Iain 31 portrait of 67
Achiltibuie 160, 176, 187 Bannockburn, Battle of (1314) 47, 66, 124, Writer’s Museum (Edinburgh) 61
Achray, Loch 19, 54 128 Burra 164
Act of Union (1707) 49, 51, 63, 64 Bannockburn Heritage Centre (Stirling) Burrell Collection (Glasgow) 11, 54, 108–9
Adam, John 61 124 Burrell, Sir William 108
Adam, Robert Barbour, John 30 Buses 219
Culzean Castle 54, 96 Barra 167, 221, 176 Bute 119, 175
New Town (Edinburgh) 68 Barrie, JM 31 Bute, 3rd Marquess of 119, 128
West Register House (Edinburgh) 69 Bars 179 Bute House (Edinburgh) 69
Adam, William Edinburgh 81 Byrne, John 31
Floors Castle 88 Glasgow 113
Hopetoun House 74 Bed-and-breakfast 170–71 C
Inverary Castle 134 Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve 155 Caerlaverock Castle 11, 94
Admission charges 208 Beinn Tarsuinn 118 Café-bars, Edinburgh 81
Agriculture 18, 19 Bell, Alexander Graham 29, 50 Cairndow, restaurants 188
Ainslie Place (Edinburgh) 68 Beltane 40 Cairngorm Reindeer Centre 145, 191
Air travel 216–17 Ben Lomond 119 Cairngorms 55, 144–5
Albany, Robert, Duke of 126 Ben Nevis 139, 152 flora 145
Albert, Prince Consort 148 Ben Nevis Hill Race 42 skiing 192, 201
Alcohol 209 Benbecula 166–7 Caledonian Brewery 191
Alexander III, King 118 Benromach Distillery (Forres) 149 Caledonian Canal 13, 141, 151, 152, 153
Alloway 93 Benson, Gordon 66 cruises 221
Ambulances 211 Birds 22–3 Caledonian Discovery 221
Anderson, Arthur 164 bird-watching 193 Caledonian MacBrayne 220, 221
Anstruther 128, 186 Birds on Orkney and Shetland 165 Callander 121, 175, 186, 206
Antiques shops 77 Gruinart Reserve (Islay) 135 Callanish standing stones 45
Antonine Wall 45, 129 Handa Island 161 Calton Hill (Edinburgh) 10, 70
Applecross 176 187 Loch Garten Osprey Centre 145 Camanachd Cup Final 42
Aquariums St Abb’s Head 88 Camera Obscura (Edinburgh) 60
Mull 137 Scottish Seabird Centre (North Berwick) Campbell clan 49, 134
Scottish Sealife Sanctuary (Barcaldine) 75 Campbell, D, The Battle of Culloden 150
136 Bishop’s Palace (Kirkwall) 162 Campbell, Lady Grace 134
Arbroath 127 Black Isle 154 Campbell, John Lorne 141
Arbroath, Declaration of (1320) 47 Black Watch 32, 126 Campbell, Robert 138
Architecture, The Scottish Castle 24–5 Blair Atholl Distillery 143 Camping 171
Ardeonaig 176, 187 Blair Castle 25, 143 Canna 140–41
Ardnamurchan Peninsula 140 Blind Harry 30 Canongate Tolbooth: The People’s Story
Ardrossan, ferries 221 Boat of Garten golf course 196, 197 (Edinburgh) 62–3
Arduaine 176, 187 Boats Cape Wrath 161
Arduaine Garden 136 ferries 220–21 Caravanning 171
Argyle Street (Glasgow) 111 sailing 203 Cardhu Distillery (Knockando) 149
Argyll, Dukes of 124, 134 Traditional Boats Festival 41 Carloway Broch 166
Arisaig, hotels 176 Böd of Gemista (Lerwick) 164 Carlyle, Thomas 31
Armadale Castle Gardens and Museum Book of Kells 46 Carnegie, Andrew 128–9
of the Isles 156 Books Carnegie Birthplace Museum 129
Armadale, ferries 221 Edinburgh Book Festival 83 Carnoustie, golf 196, 197
Arran 118 shops 77, 111 Cars
ferries 221 Boswell, James 30 car ferries 220–21
hotels 175 Botanic Garden (Edinburgh) see Royal insurance 206
restaurants 186 Botanic Garden Moray Motor Museum (Elgin) 149
Art Botanic Gardens (Glasgow) 11, 26, 107 rental 223
Glasgow Artists 105 Brae, restaurants 189 travelling by car 222–3
shops 77, 111 Braemar Castle 24 see also Tours by car
see also Museums and galleries Braemar Gathering 18, 42 Cassillis, Earls of 96, 97
Arthur, King 124 Brahan Seer 154 Castle Rock (Edinburgh) 57
Arthur’s Seat 10, 71 Braid Hills golf course (Edinburgh) 196, 197 Castle Stuart Golf Links 196, 197
Assynt Mountains 160 Braid, James 196 Castlebay, ferries 221
Atholl, Dukes of 143 Breakdown services 223 Castles 24–5
Auchindrain Museum 134 Breakfast 178 accommodation in 170
Auchterarder 175, 186 Bressay 164 Armadale Castle 156
Auldearn 176, 187 Bridge of Earn, restaurants 186 Balhousie Castle 126
Autumn in Scotland 42 Bridie, James 31 Blair Castle 25, 143
GENERAL INDEX 225
Castles (cont.) Churches see Abbeys; Cathedrals and David I, King (cont.)
Braemar Castle 24 individual towns and cities Edinburgh Castle 65
Brodick Castle 118 Churchill Barriers (Orkney Islands) 162 Holyrood Abbey 57
Caerlaverock Castle 11, 94 Cinema see Film Holyrood Park (Edinburgh) 71
Cawdor Castle 13, 150 City Chambers (Edinburgh) 61, 63 Kelso Abbey 88
Claypotts Castle 24 City Chambers (Glasgow) 10, 102 Melrose Abbey 90
Crathes Castle and Garden 149 City Observatory (Edinburgh) 70 Dawyck Botanic Garden 27
Culzean Castle 11, 54, 96–7 Clans 32–3, 50, 131 Dean Bridge (Edinburgh) 68
Dirleton Castle 75 Clava Cairns 150 Dean Village 73
Doune Castle 126 Claypotts Castle 24 Dee, River 93, 94
Drum Castle 25, 149 Clearances 50, 154, 156 Deer Park golf course 196, 197
Drumlanrig Castle 24, 25, 92–3 Clickminin Broch (Lerwick) 164 Deeside, Royal Deeside tour 39, 148–9
Duart Castle 137 Climate 40–43, 206 Defoe, Daniel 128
Duffus Castle 24 Climbing 192 Dentists 210, 211
Dunollie Castle (Oban) 136 Clothes Department stores 76, 77, 110, 111
Dunrobin Castle 25, 154, 155 shops 76, 77, 110, 111 Design shops 111
Dunstaffnage Castle 136 walking 198 Devolution 51, 71
Dunvegan Castle 156 Clubs Dewar, Sir James 29
Edinburgh Castle 10, 17, 57, 64–5 Edinburgh 81 Dinnet, hotels 176
Eilean Donan Castle 13, 155 Glasgow 113 Dirleton Castle 75
Floors Castle 88, 89 Clunie Foot Bridge, Killiecrankie Walk 142 Disabled travellers 207
Glamis Castle 126–7 Clyde, River 92 car travel 222, 223
Inverary Castle 12, 134 Firth of Clyde 118 Disability Helpline 211
Inverness Castle 151 Coach travel 219 train information 218
Jedburgh Castle 88 Coaching inns 170 Discovery (Dundee) 13, 127
Kames Castle 119 Cockburn, Lord 68 Distilleries see distilleries by name; Whisky
Kilchurn Castle 136 Coll 137, 176, 188 Doctors 210
Kinloch Castle (Rum) 141 Columba, St 46, 67, 131, 137, 153 Dore Holm (Shetland Islands) 165
Kisimul Castle (Barra) 167 Colvend golf course 196, 197 Dornoch 154–5
MacLellan’s Castle (Kirkcudbright) 94 Communications 214 golf 196, 197
Neidpath Castle 24 Comrie, restaurants 186 Douglas family 64
Rothesay Castle 119 Connoisseurs Scotland 190, 191 Douglas, Gavin 30
St Andrew’s Castle 127 Connolly, Billy 107 Douglas, Sir James (”Black Douglas”) 90, 93
Scalloway Castle 164 Consulates 209 Doune Castle 126
Stirling Castle 12, 13, 124–5 Conversion chart 209 Dounreay 161
Tantallon Castle 75 Cooper, Samuel, James II 151 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 31
Threave Castle 93 “Corbetts”, mountaineering 201 The Drongs (Shetland Islands) 165
Tower-houses 24–5 Coronation Bridge Drum Castle 25, 149
Traquair House 25 Killiecrankie Walk 142 Drumlanrig Castle 24, 25, 92–3
Urquhart Castle 13, 153 Corpach 141 Drummond Castle Gardens 27
see also Stately homes Country-house hotels 170 Drummond, George 68
Cathedrals Covenanters 93 Drummond, James
Dunkeld 143 Greyfriars Kirk (Edinburgh) 66 The Return of Mary Queen of Scots 44
Elgin 149 Martyrs’ Monument (Galloway) 95 Drumnadrochit 13, 153
Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis 10, Craig, James 68 Dryburgh Abbey 85, 89
103 Craignure, ferries 221 Duart Castle 137
St Andrews 127 Crail 128 Duffus Castle 24
St Andrew’s Cathedral (Aberdeen) 146 Crail Golfing Society 195, 197 Dumbarton 118
St Giles Cathedral (Edinburgh) 10, 61 Cranston, Kate 104 Dumfries 93
St Machar’s Cathedral (Aberdeen) 146 Crarae Gardens 12, 26, 134 Dumfries House 92
St Magnus Cathedral (Kirkwall) 162 Crathes Castle and Gardens 27, 149 Dunbar, William 30
Catholic Church 48 Creative Scotland 19 Dunblane, hotels 175
Cawdor Castle 13, 150 Credit cards 212 Duncan, King 150
Celtic Church 46 Crieff, golf 196, 197 Duncansby Head 161
Celtic Connections (Glasgow) 43 Crime 210–211 Dundee 117, 127
Celts 45, 131 Crinan, hotels 176 golf 196, 197
Central Scotland 115–29 Crockett, SR 31 hotels 175
golf 196, 197 Crofting 167 restaurants 186
hotels 175–6 Cromarty 154 Dunfermline 13, 128–9
map 116–17 Cruden Bay golf course 196, 197 Dunkeld 143, 176
restaurants 186–7 Cruises 221 Dunlop, John 28
Charles I, King of England 66, 94, 126 Cuillins 156 Dunnet Head 161
Charles II, King of England 61, 70 Culloden, Battle of (1746) 13, 32, 49, 50, 150 Dunollie Castle (Oban) 136
Charlie, Bonnie Prince 12, 49, 131, 157 re-enactment 35 Dunoon 118
Abbotsford House 90 Culross 13, 129 Dunrobin Castle 25, 154, 155
Battle of Falkirk 115 Culzean Castle 11, 54, 96–7 Dunstaffnage Castle 136
Benbecula 166 Cumberland, Duke of 147, 150 Dunvegan Castle 156
Blair Castle 143 Cupar 175, 186 Durness 161
Culloden 150 Currency 213 Dwarfie Stane (Orkney Islands) 163
Drumlanrig Castle 93 Currie, Ken 105
Eriskay 167 Customs and immigration 206–7 E
Glenfinnan Monument 141 Customs and traditions 17 Eas Coul Aulin 161
Isle of Skye 156 Cycling 202, 203 Easdale Folk Museum 136
Loch Lochy 152 East Lothian Coast 74–5
Mercat Cross (Edinburgh) 62 D East Neuk 13, 128
Palace of Holyroodhouse 71 Dale, David 92 Economy 18, 51
Prince’s Cairn 140 Dalmahoy golf course (Edinburgh) 196, 197 Eden Court Theatre (Inverness) 151
Scottish National Portrait Gallery Dance Edinburgh 55, 57–83
(Edinburgh) 67 Edinburgh 80, 81 airport 216
Traquair House 91 Glasgow 112–13 entertainment 80–83
Charlotte Square (Edinburgh) 68, 69 Highland dancing 19, 35 events 40–43
Children 208 Darien Expedition 49 Further Afield 72–5
Museum of Childhood (Edinburgh) 62, 63 Darnley, Lord 71, 102, 127 golf 196, 197
in restaurants 178–9 David I, King 46–7 hotels 172–3
Christianity 46, 94 Border abbeys 89 map 58–9
226 GENERAL INDEX
Parks and gardens (cont.) Restaurants (cont.) Sandaig Thatched House Museum (Tiree)
Inverewe Gardens 26, 160 Southern Scotland 183–4 137
Kailzie Gardens 91 vegetarian food 179 Sanday 163
Logan Botanic Garden 26, 27, 95 see also Food and drink Sanquhair 174, 184
Pitmedden Garden 27 Reynolds, Joshua 150 Sauchiehall Street (Glasgow) 10, 101
Royal Botanic Garden (Edinburgh) 27, 72 Rhinns of Galloway 95 Scalloway 164
Zen Garden (Glasgow) 103 Rhododendrons 26 Scapa Flow Visitor Centre 163
Parliament 18, 51 Riding 202, 203 Scone Palace 13, 126
Parliament House (Edinburgh) 61 Rights of way 198 Scotland Street School Museum
Scottish Parliament (Edinburgh) 10, 71 Ring of Brodgar 162 (Glasgow) 106
Passes, rail 218 Rivers, landscape and wildlife 22 Scott, Sir Walter 30, 31, 51, 90, 131
Passports 206 Riverside Museum (Glasgow) 106 Abbotsford House 85, 90
Paths for All Partnership 198, 199 Rizzio, David 71 Castle Street (Edinburgh) 69
Pedal for Scotland 42 Road to the Isles Tour 12, 140–41 Eildon Hills 88
Peebles 91, 174, 184 Road travel 222–3 grave 89
Pentland Hills 87, 91 Touring Scotland by Car 38–9 Loch Katrine 120
People’s Palace (Glasgow) 107 Rob Roy 90, 121, 128 Mons Meg 64
Personal security 210–211 Robert the Bruce 85 Perth 126
Perth 13, 126, 175, 187 Arran 118 Scott Monument (Edinburgh) 67
Petrol 223 Battle of Bannockburn 47, 124, 128 statues of 67
Pharmacies 210 Bruce’s Stone 95 tomb of 50
Picts 45, 46 Drum Castle 149 Writers’ Museum (Edinburgh) 61
Pier Arts Centre (Stromness) 162 heart of 89, 90, 93 Scottish Borders 85
Piping Centre (Glasgow) 104 Loch Awe 136 Border Abbeys tour 39, 89
Piping Live 41 Melrose Abbey 89, 90 Scottish Cup Final 40
Pitlochry 143 Rathlin 135 Scottish Enlightenment 50–51
golf 196, 197 statue of 124 Scottish Exhibition and Conference
hotels 177 tomb 128 Centre (Glasgow) 112
Pitmedden Garden 27 Robert Burns see Burns, Robert Scottish Fisheries Museum 128
Playfair, William 68, 70, 88 Robertson, William 30 Scottish Game Fair 41
Plockton 177, 189 Rock music Scottish Genealogy Society 190, 191
Police 210, 211 Edinburgh 80, 81 Scottish Grand National 40
Politics 18, 51 Glasgow 112, 113 Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor Centre 151
Pollok House (Glasgow) 108 Rockness Music Festival 41 Scottish National Gallery (Edinburgh) 10, 67
Pony trekking 193, 202, 203 Rocks 20–21 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
Population 17, 18 Romans 45 (Edinburgh) 73
Port Appin, restaurants 189 Antonine Wall 129 Scottish National Party (SNP) 18, 51
Port Ellen, ferries 221 Romanticism 30 Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Portavadie 175, 187 Romney, George 150 (Edinburgh) 67
Portpatrick 95, 174, 184 Ronas Hill (Shetland Islands) 165 Scottish Natural Heritage 141, 199
Portree 157 Roslin Institute (Edinburgh) 29 Scottish Open (golf ) 41
Postal services 214–15 Rossal 161 Scottish Parliament (Edinburgh) 10, 71
Postbuses 219 Rosslyn Chapel 11, 91 Scottish Rugby Union Cup Final 40
Presbyterian Church 48 Rothesay Castle 119 Scottish Seabird Centre (North Berwick) 75
Prestwick Airport 216 Rothiemurchus Estate 144 Scottish Sealife Sanctuary (Barcaldine) 136
Prestwick golf course 196, 197 Rousay 163 Scottish Storytelling Centre 62
Prince’s Cairn (Loch Nan Uamh) 140 Rowling, JK 31 Scottish Youth Hostels Association 171,
Princes Street (Edinburgh) 10, 76 Roxburgh, Graham 107 208, 209
Princes Street Gardens (Edinburgh) 69 Roxburghe golf course 196, 197 Scott’s View 11, 88, 89
Provand’s Lordship (Glasgow) 102 Royal Botanical Garden (Edinburgh) 27, 72 Scotways 198, 199
Provost Skene’s House (Aberdeen) 147 Royal Conservatoire of Scotland Scrabster 189, 221
Public holidays 42 (Glasgow) 112 Sea Life Surveys 191
Pubs 179 Royal Deeside 13, 55 Seabury, Samuel 146
Puppet Animation Festival 40 tour by car 39, 148–9 Seafood 179
Royal Dornoch golf course 196, 197 Seaforth, Countess of 154
Q Royal Highland Show 41 Seil, Isle of 136
Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 121 Royal Mile (Edinburgh) 10, 57, 60–63 Self-catering accommodation 171
Queen’s Gallery (Edinburgh) 71 Royal Musselburgh golf course 196, 197 Selkirk, Alexander 128
Queensferry, restaurants 187 Royal National Mod 42 Shakespeare, William 13, 150
Quiraing 157 Royal Troon golf course 196, 197 Shepherd, Nan 31
Royal Yacht Britannia 13, 72 Sheriffmuir, restaurants 187
R Rugby 40 Shetland Folk Festival 40
Racing, horse 40, 42, 88 Rum 140–41 Shetland Islands 164–5
Radio 19, 215 ferries 220–21
Raeburn, Henry 134, 146 S hotels 177
Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Safety map 165
Duddington Loch 67 mountain activities 200, 201 restaurants 189
Railways see Trains personal security 210–211 Shipbuilding industry 50, 51
Rainfall 42 Sailing 192, 203 Shiskine golf course 196, 197
Ramblers Scotland 199 St Abb’s Head 88 Shooting lodges 170–71
Ramsay, Allan 30, 67, 134 St Andrews 13, 39, 127 Shopping
Rankin, Ian 31 golf 195, 197 Edinburgh 76–9
Reformation 48, 61, 62 hotels 175 Glasgow 110–111
Reid, Robert 68 restaurants 187 opening hours 208
Religion 18 St Andrew’s Cathedral (Aberdeen) 146 What to Buy 78–9
Rembrandt, Self-portrait 109 St Andrew’s Day 42 Signet Library (Edinburgh) 61
Renting cars 223 St Fillan’s Cave (St Monans) 128 “Silicon Glen” 18
Restaurants 178–89 St Giles Cathedral (Edinburgh) 10, 61, 80, 81 Sinclair, William 91
afternoon tea 178 St Kilda 167 Skara Brae 45, 162
breakfast, lunch and dinner 178 St Machar’s Cathedral (Aberdeen) 146 Skeabost 156
Central Scotland 186–7 St Magnus Festival 41 Skene, Sir George 147
children in 178–9 St Margaret’s Hope (Orkney Islands), Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum (Tiree) 137
Edinburgh 181–3 ferries 221 Sketch for Annabel Lee (Whistler) 107
fast food 179 St Monans, restaurants 187 Skiing 139, 145, 192, 201
Glasgow 184–6 St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Skye, Isle of 13, 54, 130, 132, 156–7
Highlands and Islands 187–9 Art (Glasgow) 103 ferries 221
prices and booking 178 St Nicholas Kirk (Aberdeen) 146 golf 196, 197
pubs and style bars 179 St Ninian’s 164 hotels 177
seafood 179 Salisbury Crags (Edinburgh) 71 restaurants 188
230 GENERAL INDEX
Acknowledgments
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Scottish Vocabulary
Gaelic is a Celtic language that is still spoken as a political and judicial systems have given rise to a
second language in the Highlands and Western rich vocabulary that reflects Scottish culture. Many
Isles of Scotland. Estimates put the figure of Gaelic additional terms in current usage are colloquial.
speakers throughout the country at around English as spoken by the Scots is commonly
80,000. The last decade has seen something of a divided into four dialects. Central Scots can be
revival of the language, due to the encourage- heard across the Central Belt and the southwest of
ment of both education and broadcasting author- the country. As around a quarter of the population
ities. However the majority of people are most lives within 32 km (20 miles) of Glasgow, West
likely to come across Gaelic today in the form of Central Scots is one of the most frequently heard
place names. Words such as glen, loch, eilean and subdivisions of this dialect. Southern Scots is
kyle are all still very much in use. English remains spoken in the east of Dumfries and Galloway and
the principal language of Scotland. However the the Borders; Northern Scots in the northeast; and
country’s very distinct education, religious, Island Scots in the Orkney and Shetland Islands.