Olive 202102 40 2021-01-28 41 PDF

CLEVER TWISTS Bolognese pizza • Harissa pork chops • Spiced celeriac rostis • Blood orange loaf cake
eat
O FEBRUARY 2021
Coffee custard tart • Brazilian fish stew • Cauliflower bhajis • And the best hash browns ever
February 2021
UK £5.25 cook discover unwind
Lemon sole with brown shrimp butter • Honey madeleines • Broken lasagne and white bean soup • Lemon and lime macaroon tart • Soy-braised chicken with kohlrabi salad
EASY
SEASONAL
RECIPES
nourishing
midweek meals
The restaurants
of the future
Learn to make
STYLING:XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX.FOOD STYLING:XXXXXX XXXXXXXX. WORDS XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX
the lightest
cheese soufflé
Mark Hix’s winter
crumble
weekend menu
crumpets, dumplings, pavlova rhubarb
get the look
CAN $13.99 US $12.99 AUS $14.50
Omagazine.com
Vintage-meets-modern kitchen
crunch cake
January 2021 Omagazine.com 1
Our brewmasters artfully combine 4 hop varieties from
around the world to create a beer that inspires new
taste adventures. Discover Birrificio Angelo Poretti No. 4.
For more
recipes,
visit O
welcome February might be the briefest
month, but it’s not short on
special days to cook for – an
excellent excuse to try your hand
Your brand-new O
Our promise to you
magazine. at new recipes, make a cocktail O is brought to you by the same team as
com (p59 and p61) or treat yourself BBC Good Food, Britain’s leading food media
to a fancy new crêpe pan (p9)? brand. As you’ll see from Our Commitment on
page 96, we're committed to improving diversity
Choose from two new brunch-
On the cover and inclusivity, and work with a wide range
worthy recipes for Pancake Day of contributors to drive authentic change.
and, this year, St Valentine scores a Sunday, so if you’re There’s so much more to explore beyond the
inclined to romance opt for a low-maintenance Sunday pages of your magazine, including imaginative
recipes, award-winning podcasts and lively
roast chicken for two with a bottle of beaujolais videos showcasing cooking skills and techniques
recommended by Kate Hawkings on p60. on Omagazine.com. Here’s what you can
February is also an optimum month for comfort expect from us.
food in all of its guises. Our cover recipe, Edd Kimber’s our recipes work
Recipe rhubarb and custard crunch cake, strikes a bright All our recipes are developed and thoroughly tested
Edd Kimber note in the chill. Forced rhubarb is one of the hero by experts, so you know they’ll work every time.
ingredients we produce in the UK at this time of year sustainability

Photograph
Jonathan Gregson
Styling and it’s a joy to cook with. Perhaps you’ll fancy the It’s at the heart of everything we do. We try to help
Jo Harris hug-in-a-bowl pear crumble on our seasonal pages, you cut down on food waste by suggesting ideas
Food styling the lighter but no less soothing Brazilian-style fish for using up any leftovers, and by celebrating and
keeping you informed about green initiatives.
Ella Tarn
stew from Nadine Brown, or Mark Hix’s royal crumpet
piled high with smoked salmon and hollandaise. nourish
Or do you need a break from your own food? Our recipes are analysed by a BANT-registered
nutritionist, so you can be informed when you
Browse Inspiration and read Pro vs Punter on choose what to eat. For more health advice
p62 to find a meal kit that suits you (and there is a and recipe collections, see Omagazine.com.
more extensive selection on Omagazine.com).
These kits are helping keep some hospitality
expert advice
Our writers are food experts, so when we make
businesses alive. Others have different, innovative a restaurant recommendation or review a destination
survival plans, Tony Naylor takes a look on p64 and or product, you can trust our opinion.
lists some new openings to look forward to.
@Omagazine
Lulu Grimes, managing editor

@Omagazine @lulugrimes
A THANK YOU GIFT TO O SUBSCRIBERS!

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February 2021 Omagazine.com 3

february
contents 59 inside your
90
NEW-LOOK
26 40
O
magazine
75
inspiration 54 The O taste test
7 February inspiration
In our new column, we put marmalade
on test, so you can use the best in your recipes 80
Make the most of the month by choosing
seasonal ingredients and shopping smart 97 Index
Get all of this month’s recipes in one place
70 10 things I love about
Bologna, Italy
cook
98 Brilliant basics
Jacob Kenedy of Bocca di Lupo shares his
Beef stew topped with herby dumplings
favourite ingredients from the city where he first
learnt to make gelato
16 Cook with the season
How to use winter’s best ingredients
discover 74 Cook like a local: Tasmania
ALL THE INFORMATION IN THIS MAGAZINE WAS CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT
A taste of this unique Australian island at home
25 Brilliant new bakes
Edd Kimber shares four fruit-laden recipes 56 Eat in, eat out
unwind
Try out some new ingredients to make these
34 Everyday healthy modern Aussie-inspired recipes
Five nourishing recipes to enjoy
60 Wine
80 Kitchens to covet
40 Made for two O’s wine expert, Kate Hawkings, is all for
Rosie Birkett’s north London kitchen makes
Delicious, special dishes to make at home when drinking beaujolais this month
the most of quirky upcycled accessories
it’s just the pair of you
61 The measure
86 Leisurely extravagance
47 Leftovers love Treat loved ones this Valentine’s Day to dessert
A long Sunday is the perfect opportunity to
Make the most of ragu from the night before cocktails, pink tequila and small-batch teas
recreate Mark Hix’s comforting pub dishes
on this clever pizza, perfect for a Friday night in
62 Pro vs punter
90 Kitchen therapy
48 Smart suppers A critic and an O reader test a make-at-home
Perfecting the art of a light-as-air savoury soufflé
Four easy and delicious midweek meals packed meal box featuring a taste of Burgundy
with satisfying, nourishing carbs 92 On the O podcast
64 Brave new openings
Relax and listen to Emily and Amy Chung (The
52 3 ways with gochujang Celebrating the energy and ingenuity of those
Rangoon Sisters) talk all things Burmese cuisine
Experiment with this spicy Korean chilli paste chefs and owners opening new restaurants
bringing you the best & don’t miss

Eileen Twum Rosie Birkett Mark Hix 24 Subscribe today
This issue sees Food writer Rosie’s Spend a leisurely Sign up today and save 33%, plus get a
O restaurant characterful north Sunday recreating professional chef’s blowtorch worth £39.99
critic Eileen test out London kitchen dishes from this Reader offers
a make-at-home, four-course
dinner inspired by the flavours
matches bespoke fittings
with cleverly repurposed
celebrated chef’s new Dorset
pub. Turn to page 86 for the
73 Join Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall on a
gastronomic tour of the South West
of Burgundy. Check out her accessories. Turn to page 80 likes of black forest pavlova
verdict on page 62. to get inspired. and game dumplings. 77 Save 20% on a Judge digital bread
maker, also perfect for homemade jam
4 February 2021 Omagazine.com

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february
inspiration
Get motivated in your kitchen with 11 great
ways to make the most of this month, from
luxurious meal kits to must-have new
products and initiatives worth supporting
choosing Now the acceptable non-meat face of many

a main course, and equally loved by chefs and
home cooks, nearly a decade ago cauliflower
sales were through the floor. Its near demise put a rocket under the creativity of
the food industry and, while we all love cauli cheese, we’ve also taken to roast
whole cauli, and fat ‘steaks’ cut through creamy heads of curds. Cauliflower is
all-embracing in its flavour affinity, it suits every cuisine and especially shines with
the additions of spices: try the bhajis on p22, or lace it with gochujang on p53.

creating
This month, food writer
Meliz Berg experiments with
sweet and smoky urfa chilli paste
Urfa kıymalı
yoğurtlu tantuni
Tantuni is a traditional Turkish street food
of finely diced beef or lamb, and salad
wrapped in lavash bread. This is a lovely,
quick alternative using beef mince. Urfa
chilli is used widely in Turkish cuisine.
The peppers are sundried to develop a
deep mahogany colour, then ground to
flakes and sprinkled over anything from
salads to kebabs.
35 MINUTES | SERVES 4 |EASY
white onions 2, finely sliced

tomatoes 4, 2 finely sliced, 2 left whole
olive oil 2 tbsp
beef mince (at least 10% fat) 500g
flat-leaf parsley 30g, leaves and stalks finely chopped
greek yogurt 200g
lemon 1, Ω juiced and zested, Ω to serve
garlic 2 cloves, finely grated
urfa chilli paste 1Ω tbsp
runny honey 1 tsp
dried mint Ω tsp
lavash or large wraps 4, heated in a frying pan
sumac or pul biber a pinch (optional)
1 Mix together half the onions with the sliced tomatoes and set
aside. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry
the mince for 5 minutes, breaking it up as it cooks, until browned
all over. Turn down the heat, add the remaining onions and the
chopped parsley stalks, and cook for 10-12 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, make the yogurt sauce. Stir the yogurt well, then
add the zest and juice of half the lemon, along with half of the
garlic, Ω tbsp of urfa chilli paste, the honey, dried mint and a
good pinch of salt. Stir everything well, then leave to one side.
3 Add the remaining garlic to the beef, then grate the whole
tomatoes straight into the pan, discarding their skins. Stir in the
remaining urfa chilli paste, a good pinch of salt and pepper, and
200ml of cold water. Stir well, turn up the heat, and allow the
liquid to reduce for 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in
1 tbsp of chopped parsley.
Urfa chilli paste
Belazu has recently launched an urfa chilli
4 To serve, rest a wrap on top of the mince mixture so that it
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN GREGSON
paste, perfect for marinating meat and

soaks up some of the juices and flavour, then move it to a plate
adding to yogurt for dipping. It has a warming
with the juicy side up. Spread some of the urfa chilli yogurt over
FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN
heat with notes of raisin and tobacco.

the wrap, top with some of the mince, the sliced onion and
tomato, the parsley, and a squeeze of lemon. Sprinkle with a little Meliz Berg is a cook, recipe developer and food
STYLING: JO HARRIS
sumac or pul biber, if you like. Repeat with the remaining wraps. content creator. She is passionate about her
family’s Turkish Cypriot recipes, which have been
PER SERVING 596 kcals | fat 36G | saturates 14.2G | carbs 32.9G passed down through oral tradition. @melizcooks
sugars 11.2G | fibre 5G | protein 32.7G | salt 1.2G

inspiration
crav ng
The good things
Meet Atcha’s The Goan: pulled pork with radish and

coconut chutney-mayo in sourdough, best eaten with
a tub of spicy ‘gunpowder’ popcorn. Atcha creates
lighter South Indian food – zingy salads and lunch
bowls – but it’s the sarnies we’re dreaming of: paneer
and pomegranate, cauli�ower with masala mayo,
chicken tikka club. Available for delivery in London,
with plans to roll out nationwide. atcha.co.uk
co o ing
Get cosy with a meal kit for two
Spending Valentine’s Day with your loved one,
your bubble or want to send a very special gift? Leading chefs have been
refining their delivery offerings after sell-out Christmas boxes. Our pick
is Tom Kerridge’s With Love Menu, the perfect restaurant kit for cooks of
all skill levels. First up, easy-to-assemble canapés: lobster and avo tartlets,
Tunworth gougères, and cider-slicked pork belly, black pudding and
crackling. Beef wellington with onion and truffle purée or Cotswold white
chicken, gnocchi and morels are mains, with sticky toffee pudding, clotted
cream and petits fours to close. Kits from £165 at tomkerridge.com.
For more, search DIY meal kits at Omagazine.com.
co ting
Add style to your Pancake Day
creations with our favourite
investment pieces
De Buyer Mineral B
crêpe pan, 30cm
£30.99, souschef.co.uk
Feel every inch the professional with this
stylish pan. The large base allows you to swirl
your batter for the thinnest, crispiest (if that’s
your thing) pancakes, and the low sides make
it a doddle to slide them onto your plate.
Olivewood citrus reamer Egg rack

£16.50, divertimenti.co.uk £12, labourandwait.co.uk
Made from sustainable olivewood, this smart This unglazed terracotta rack is a
re-imagination of the classic citrus reamer replica of a traditional card egg box.
is beautifully simple and perfect for your A charming reminder to work with
lemon-and-sugar creations. room-temperature eggs – fill it up and
use for making perfect pancakes.

celeb ating
An award-winning mother-daughter team
bring Punjabi cuisine to your kitchen
Confined to our homes, many are looking at how they

can develop their skills in the kitchen, so how about
enhancing your knowledge of regional Indian cooking?
Surinder Hothi-Bellamy, the co-founder of Pure
Punjabi, learned to cook traditional northern Indian
dishes with her mother from the age of seven, and
began cooking for the whole family when she
was 11. In more recent years, Surinder sold spice blends
at markets, then, in 2013, launched a cookery school
based at her home with daughter Safia, teaching the regional cooking skills
passed down by her mother.
Surinder explains that although many associate Indian food with lots
of spicy sauces, that doesn’t characterise traditional Punjabi staples. “The
world is evolving for the better, with increased understanding of cultures
catching
up Tune in to the
Omagazine
and cuisines. Punjab is an agricultural region – a land of farmers. Pulses,
grains and vegetables were the standard diet.”
She adds: “It’s predominantly vegetarian. The daily diet is different types of
dahls and roti, and sabji (any sort of vegetable curry). I’d encourage people to
learn to make old-school Punjabi food. It’s nutritionally complete, filling,
sustainable and environmentally friendly.”
Among the workshops on offer, Surinder and Safia teach breadmaking,
how to cook a three-course Indian meal and North Indian street food. But
they’ve also found ways to bring people together during the pandemic.
“We knew that people were feeling isolated in lockdown, so we had the idea
of offering free cook-alongs with our dinner kits, which have been fun.”
podcast
You can find vouchers for Surinder and Safia’s cookery workshop or meal
kits on their website, purepunjabi.co.uk.
Tessa Clarke was one of the founders of the innovative
free app OLIO, which was invented in a bid to reduce
the massive problem of food waste, not only in the
UK but all over the world. In episode 219 of the O
magazine podcast she talks about how she had her
light bulb moment, leading to the creation of the app
and the practical challenges of rolling it out. We also
hear how last year’s lockdown was a turning point for
OLIO, with people using it to help those in need. Plus,
she shares her plans to empower more people and
communities to share their unwanted food, and more.
Listen to the
latest podcast via
Omagazine.com,
Acast, iTunes or your
favourite podcast
provider.

inspiration
Everything bagels
Up your bagel game with
these New York-style
‘everything’ bagels, loaded
with poppy and sesame
seeds, caramelised onion
and roasted garlic. £1.50,
Waitrose & Partners
LA Brewery Sparkling
English Rose
A champagne-inspired
kombucha that has delicate
bubbles, floral rose and
elderflower notes with a gentle
background funk. Drink chilled
as a booze-free aperitif.
£10, labrewery.co.uk
Slow Vinegar Company vinegars
The Slow Vinegar Company makes small batches
from scratch. We love the elderflower vinegar with
From £4, theslowvinegarcompany.co.uk
co ing w th
its subtle floral sweetness, and warming ginger.
Try them in cocktails as well as salad dressings.
Shopping inspiration
for the month ahead
Abernethy chipotle chilli

and smoked paprika butter
This hand-churned butter is Happy Inside Lively
salty and slightly smoky, with Lemon, Yuzu + Ginger
gentle chilli heat and flecks of We love the tang and
aromatic oregano. It’s delicious rounded mouthfeel of this
slathered on hot toast, melted not-too-sweet, still soft
over steak or stirred into drink, as well as its citrussy
scrambled eggs. £2.10, warmth. £8.99 (4 cans),
abernethybutter.com. happyinsidedrinks.co.uk
The Curators smoky BBQ almonds

Crunchy, smoky with a subtle heat,
these superior snacking nuts would Kold hot pepper sauce
be perfect with a crisp chilled beer. This naturally fermented, cold-pressed hot sauce is
£14.40 (12 x 35g), wearethecurators.com packed with fruity habanero heat, zingy rice wine
vinegar and warming background spices, including
cumin and cloves. Enjoy it drizzled over just about
anything, from cheese on toast to noodles.
£6.99, koldsauce.com
Rollagranola Organic
& Nutty Oat Granola
Noble House Prepared Made from 100% organic, vegan and
Noble House Prepared makes high-quality, chef-prepared gluten-free ingredients, this super-nutty Zepice gourmet chilli paste
frozen meals. There are some delicious dishes and the portions granola has a nice toasty flavour and This fruity, fiery paste gets extra
are generous. We tried the pork dijon – lovely, tender meat coconut sweetness. Great for grazing, depth from mulato chillies smoked
in a creamy mustard sauce. It’s perfect comfort food with mash sprinkled over fruit and yogurt, or over applewood. Add to glazes and
(sold separately). Meals from £6.25, noblehouseprepared.com crumbled over a crêpe for Pancake Day. marinades or use for spicy stews
£4.99, rollagranola.com and soups. £6.50, zepice.com

cherishing O subscriber Jan Price recommends
a favourite recipe from our archive. Get in
touch via @Omagazine to share yours
Soy-braised chicken with mayonnaise 2 tbsp

sriracha 1 tbsp
kohlrabi salad coriander a good handful, chopped
1 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Put the chicken in a

Chosen by: Jan Price from Cambridgeshire large food bag with the mirin, soy, sake, sugar and 2 tbsp of
water. Seal the bag, then shake so the sauce coats the chicken.
“My all-time favourite O magazine recipe is soy-braised Leave at room temperature for 15 minutes.
chicken with kohlrabi salad. The reason I love it is that it’s 2 To make the salad, put the kohlrabi, carrot, spring onion whites
extremely tasty, easy to make and it tastes good with other and rice vinegar in a bowl. Add a pinch of salt and toss together.
things, such as smashed roasted new spuds, rice, noodles 3 Take the chicken out of the bag and shake off any excess
and more. Plus, the slaw also goes with other recipes – very marinade (but reserve the left-over marinade). Put the chicken
in a roasting tin, skin-side up. Cover the tin with foil and bake for
versatile. Yummy! Other readers must try it because they
30 minutes. Remove the foil, spoon over the reserved marinade
are missing out on a delicious dish. I like to vary what and bake for another 15-20 minutes or until the chicken is glazed
I cook from month to month, and the majority of the and cooked through. Keep basting with the marinade as it cooks.
recipes I use all come from Omagazine, and I’ve yet to 4 Stir the mayo, sriracha and coriander into the kohlrabi salad.
cook one I didn’t like – they are all pretty amazing.” Serve the chicken with the salad alongside, scattered with the
spring onion greens and sesame seeds.
1 HOUR + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY
PER SERVING 625 kcals | fat 37.2G
chicken thighs 8 saturates 7.6G | carbs 33.1G | sugars 30.7G
mirin 2 tbsp fibre 6.2G | protein 35.4G | salt 2.2G
soy sauce 3 tbsp
sake 1 tbsp
brown sugar 4 tbsp
black sesame seeds 1 tsp, to serve
KOHLRABI SALAD
Join the club?
kohlrabi 2 apple-sized, finely shredded
carrot 1 large, finely shredded
Become an O subscriber and make sure you don’t miss
spring onions 4, finely sliced, white and green parts separated out on more fabulous recipes. Go to Omagazine.com/
rice vinegar 2 tbsp subscribe or turn to page 24 for details.

inspiration
champio ing
Girls Who Grind Coffee
Shaking things up on the coffee scene since 2017, Girls Who
The coffee roastery supporting
female coffee growers
Grind Coffee (GWGC) is an all-female, small-batch coffee

roastery based in Wiltshire that sources speciality coffee from
female producers around the world. Founders Fi O’Brien and
Casey Lalonde explain: “It’s no secret that the coffee supply
chain is a male-dominated one but at least 70% of the work that
goes into producing coffee is actually carried out by women.
They are the pickers, sorters, the labourers. They’re rarely the
decision makers or business owners, and we seldom hear about
the amazing hard work these women do.”
On a mission to change this, the GWGC team sources coffees
exclusively from female producers, and specifically seeks out
those that are empowering and educating women. Alongside a
striking design, each bag includes a description of the coffee and
where it’s grown, including tasting notes and information on the
producers and how they support women. To buy, visit the online
shop at girlswhogrindcoffee.com/shop-1.
crafting plate like a pro

CAJA, from Argentine chef
Martin Milesi of UNA, is a meal
kit with a di�erence. Described
as “restaurant unboxing”,
this package gives you the
opportunity to unleash your
inner chef. Each box contains
a four-course meal for two people, and all the
serious prep has been taken care of using
ingredients that are not run of the mill. The �rst
course includes a cassava and roasted pepper
cream, next comes a beef mayo with cured red
tuna, then black aubergine wafers and charred
aubergine to go with lamb. Dessert is a divine
pineapple, coconut and lime concoction.
Instructions are explicit, and you can scan a QR
code to watch a video that will show you exactly
how to plate up each course. If you are missing
restaurant experiences, this is both huge fun
and delicious. Save any left-over sauces and
garnishes to use in your own way – the package
also comes with citrus salt and chimichurri.
£79 for two. Available for Friday delivery via
caja.slerp.com. Find out more at unalondon.com.

cook
Get creative with the best winter
produce. Bake fruit-laden cakes for
sunshine flavours, treat your loved
one with romantic recipes for two,
and make smart midweek suppers.

co w th the seaso How to make the most of
February’s best ingredients
Recipes ADAM BUSH Photographs MIKE ENGLISH
in season
this month
had o k Pear crumble
pears This is a classic crumble with a thick, crunchy top.
celeriac Custard or ice cream are non-negotiable! If you’re

cooking for adults, a splash of rum, whisky or brandy
with the pears works beautifully.
cauliflo r 45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
v niso soft light brown sugar 100g

lemon Ω, juiced
mackerel vanilla bean paste 1 tsp

pears 6, peeled, cored and chopped
plain flour 200g
parsnips butter 125g, cold and cubed

caster sugar 3 tbsp
custard or ice cream to serve
b us els spro ts 1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
2 Put the brown sugar, lemon juice and vanilla in a pan and
jerusalem articho es warm over a medium heat, swirling until the sugar has dissolved.
Tip into a bowl with the chopped pears and toss really well to
b o o anges combine. Tip into a 20cm x 30cm baking dish.

3 To make the crumble topping, tip the flour, butter and caster
sugar into a bowl and use up-turned palms and the tips of your
rhub rb fingers to gently rub the butter into the flour, until it resembles
sandy breadcrumbs.
4 Scatter the crumble all over the top of the pears, then sprinkle
with some sea salt flakes, if you like. Bake for 30 minutes until the
crumble is golden and a little of the sauce is bubbling up at the
sides. Flash under a hot grill to brown, if you like. Serve with
custard or ice cream.

saturates 16.5G | carbs 78G | sugars 39.8G
fibre 2G | protein 5.2G | salt 0.8G

cook seasonal
pears
Any pears will work for this recipe but some of our favourites are
Conference, Red Williams, Comice or Concorde. Just use ripe ones
– underripe fruit will result in a less flavourful crumble.

get the lo
Broste Copenhagen Nordic sand plate
(£17, nordicnest.com)

cook seasonal
Spiced celeriac rostis

with harissa yogurt
Top these hash browns with crispy fried eggs for
a winning brunch.
3 Mix together the yogurt, harissa and lemon juice in a bowl.
35 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V GF 4 Fry the remaining eggs to your liking, then spoon the yogurt
between four plates. Top with the hot rostis and fried eggs, then
celeriac Ω, peeled and coarsely grated scatter over the spring onions.
floury potatoes 2 medium, peeled and coarsely grated
cornflour 2 tbsp
eggs 5 (we used Clarence Court Burford Browns) PER SERVING 386 kcals | fat 21G
cumin seeds 1 tbsp saturates 4.3G | carbs 29.4G | sugars 5.4G
black peppercorns ground to make Ω tsp fibre 7.1G | protein 16.3G | salt 0.9G
olive oil 2 tbsp
yogurt 150ml
rose harissa 2 tbsp
lemon Ω, juiced
spring onions 2, thinly sliced
1 Tip the celeriac and potatoes into a thin, clean tea towel and
squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Put into a bowl with the
celeriac
Celeriac is a variety of celery cultivated for its
cornflour, 1 egg, cumin seeds, ground peppercorns and plenty of bulbous root. It has a mild celery-like flavour but
salt. Stir thoroughly to combine. is much deeper and nuttier, with a pleasing texture
2 Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over
a medium heat and spoon in four mounds of the celeriac mix to once cooked. Try to find it with healthy looking
make 10cm-round rostis, then press to flatten. Fry for 4-5 minutes celery and leaves attached at the top – this is a good
or until deeply golden, then flip and repeat. Keep warm in a low
oven while you cook the rest with the remaining oil. sign of its freshness.

had o k
When shopping for smoked haddock, try to buy it un-dyed or naturally
dyed, as this is often better quality fish. It will also prevent any dye
leaching out and ruining the look of the risotto. It should have a
natural smoked hue – the artificially dyed variety will be very yellow.

cook seasonal
Smoked haddock risotto and leave to poach for 5 minutes, then scoop out onto a plate
with a slotted spoon. Flake into large chunks, discarding any skin
or bones. Keep the stock warm.
These may not seem like obvious bedfellows, but the 2 Heat 50g of the butter in a large, deep frying pan or shallow
subtle smokiness of the smoked haddock is uber casserole until foaming, then add the onion with a pinch of salt.
comforting with the rice, stock and parmesan. Cook gently for 10 minutes until soft. Stir in the garlic and cook
for another 2 minutes.
45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY 3 Stir in the risotto rice and mix really well to ensure each grain is
coated in the butter. Pour in the wine and bubble until reduced by
chicken stock 1.4 litres at least half. Stir in the cabbage, then add the stock, a ladleful at
smoked haddock 500g a time, stirring constantly and only adding more once it is fully
unsalted butter 75g incorporated. After 10-15 minutes of cooking, keep tasting the
onion 1, finely chopped rice – it should be cooked but with a very slight bite. You may not
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped need all of the stock.
risotto rice 300g 4 When the rice is cooked, gently fold in the haddock, parmesan
white wine a small glass and a squeeze of lemon juice. Season and add the remaining
Sweetheart cabbage Ω, shredded butter, then remove from the heat to sit for 5 minutes. Stir again
parmesan 50g, finely grated gently, then top with the lemon zest and parsley to serve.
lemon 1, zested plus some juice
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, finely chopped PER SERVING 681 kcals | fat 21.4G
saturates 12.8G | carbs 67.8G | sugars 5.8G
1 Heat the stock until just simmering, then remove fibre 5.5G | protein 41.6G | salt 3.4G
from the heat and add the haddock. Cover

mild chilli powder 1 tsp
sparkling water 150-200ml
onion 1, thinly sliced
greek yogurt 150g
lime 1, zested and juiced
coriander a handful, chopped
vegetable oil for deep-frying
1 Bring a pan of lightly salted water to the boil and simmer the
cauliflower pieces for 1-2 minutes until just softening. Drain really
well and leave to cool completely.
2 Put the flours and spices in a bowl along with a big pinch of salt,
then gradually whisk in the sparkling water until it forms a stiff
batter. Gently fold in the onion and cooled cauliflower pieces until
they’re completely coated in batter.
3 Put the yogurt, lime zest and juice, and coriander in a blender
Cauliflower bhajis with plenty of seasoning and whizz until smooth and combined.
4 Fill a pan no more than a third full with oil and heat to 180C or
until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Line a plate with
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES | SERVES 4�6 AS A SNACK | EASY | V
kitchen paper and set it by the hob.
5 Use a dessert spoon to carefully drop spoonfuls of the batter
A twist on the curry house classic.
into the hot oil, frying for 3-4 minutes, in batches, until really crisp.
Use a slotted spoon to scoop out onto the prepared plate and
cauliflower 1, broken into small florets, stem chopped and small
sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Repeat with the remaining batter.
leaves cut into pieces
Serve with the yogurt for dipping.
gram flour 200g
plain flour 25g
ground turmeric 1 tsp PER SERVING �6� 273 kcals | fat 12.1G
ground cumin 1 tsp saturates 2.5G | carbs 26.9G | sugars 5.1G
black mustard seeds 1 tsp fibre 5.7G | protein 11.3G | salt 0.1G

cook seasonal
Cauliflower and broccoli soup Cauliflower, walnut and

45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V LC
apple salad
Heat a knob of butter and 1 tbsp of olive oil in a large pan and 15 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V LC GF
fry 1 finely chopped onion with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes
until soft. Add 2 chopped cloves of garlic to the pan and cook Cut 1 head of cauliflower into florets and thinly slice. Whisk
for another minute, then add the chopped stem, florets and tender together 3 tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tbsp of white wine
leaves of 1 large cauliflower with the stem and florets of 1 large vinegar and 1 tbsp of dijon mustard with some seasoning in
chopped broccoli. Fry for a few minutes, tossing in the butter a large bowl. Add 2 cubed apples, a handful of raisins, a bunch
and oil, then pour in 1.5 litres of vegetable stock. Simmer for of roughly chopped parsley and the cauliflower, and very gently
20 minutes until the vegetables have cooked, then use a stick toss together. Toast a handful of walnuts, then roughly chop.
blender to whizz until smooth. Season. Heat 3 tbsp of olive oil in Tip the salad into a serving bowl and top with the walnuts.
a non-stick frying pan and tear in 3 stale slices of sourdough to
make croutons. Fry for 4-5 minutes until deep golden-brown, then PER SERVING 178 kcals | fat 13.4G
season. Spoon the soup between four bowls and top with the saturates 1.7G | carbs 11.5G | sugars 11.3G
croutons to serve. fibre 1.6G | protein 2.2G | salt 0.5G

fibre 12.5G | protein 24.4G | salt 2.9G
STYLING: AMY KINNEAR. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
get the lo
Kana dip bowl in basic white
(£24, kanalondon.com)
cauliflo r
A good sign of a cauli’s freshness is its leaves. They
Nom Living, fluted forest side plate,
should be green and not wilting, as well as the florets
unglazed rim (£20, nomliving.com) being bright white and unblemished. Don’t throw away
The Linen Works, linen napkin, simple hem
the leaves or stem – they’re perfectly delicious to eat.
(£8.50, thelinenworks.co.uk)

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cook fruit-filled bakes
Brilliant
new bakes
Edd Kimber shares four fabulous
fruit-laden recipes to bring sunshine
flavours to the winter months
Recipes EDD KIMBER
Photographs JONATHAN GREGSON
STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN

a go using
geo s oseaso
tio alfo pro uce
COVER
RECIPE
Rhubarb and
custard cake
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES + COOLING the butter into the flour mixture using your
SERVES 10 | EASY fingertips until a dough forms. Cover and chill
until firm.
QUICK CUSTARD 3 Meanwhile, to make the cake, lightly butter
custard powder 1 tbsp a loose-bottomed, deep, 23cm round cake tin
caster sugar 30g (a springform tin will also work well) and line
whole milk 120ml the base with baking paper. Heat the oven to
unsalted butter 10g 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
CRUMBLE 4 Put the butter and sugar in a large bowl and
plain flour 75g beat using an electric whisk for 5 minutes until
caster sugar 35g light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time,
unsalted butter 50g beating until combined before adding another.
SOURED CREAM CAKE Add the vanilla and beat again to combine. In a
unsalted butter 175g, at room temperature, separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking
plus extra for the tin powder and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt. Add the flour
caster sugar 175g mixture to the wet ingredients in three additions,
eggs 3 large alternating with the soured cream. Make sure to
vanilla extract 1 tsp start and finish with the flour mixture.
self-raising flour 250g 5 Scrape the batter into the prepared cake tin
baking powder Ω tsp and level the surface. Remove the crumble and
soured cream 100ml custard from the fridge. Dollop the custard over
rhubarb 200g, cut into lengths the cake batter, then scatter over the rhubarb
pieces. Break up the crumble and arrange it over
1 First, make the custard. Put the custard the rhubarb. Bake for 50 minutes or until golden
powder and sugar in a small pan and whisk and the cake is just pulling away from the sides
to combine. Pour in the milk and whisk until of the tin. Leave to cool for 15 minutes before
smooth. Put the pan over a medium heat and removing to a wire rack to cool completely.
warm, whisking constantly, until the custard It will keep, covered, at room temperature for
thickens and just starts to bubble. Scrape the three days.
custard into a small bowl, press a sheet of
baking paper on the surface, and chill until cold. PER SERVING 452 kcals | fat 24G
2 To make the crumble, mix together the flour, saturates 14.3G | carbs 51.3G | sugars 25.3G
sugar and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Rub fibre 1.7G | protein 6.6G | salt 0.6G

cook fruit-�lled bakes
• Tart rhubarb and

creamy custard are
a match made in
heaven, and work
perfectly in this
cake. Serve with
a cuppa, or
with more
custard as a
dessert.
• Soured cream keeps the cake

moist, and the crumble topping is a
great contrast to the sharp rhubarb.

Blood orange, poppy seed
and marzipan loaf cake
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 8�10 | EASY
unsalted butter 100g, at room temperature, plus extra for the tin
caster sugar 200g
blood oranges 2, zested, plus 30ml of juice and some extra
slices to decorate
eggs 2 large
vanilla extract 1 tsp
plain flour 200g
baking powder 1º tsp
natural yogurt 125ml
poppy seeds 2 tbsp, plus extra to decorate
marzipan 85g
icing sugar 200g
1 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Lightly butter a 900g

loaf tin and line with baking paper. Put the butter, sugar and
orange zest in a large bowl, and beat with an electric whisk for
5 minutes until light and fluffy. Add one egg, and beat until fully
combined before adding the second. Briefly mix in the vanilla.
In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder and
1
/4 tsp of salt. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients in two
additions, alternating with the yogurt. Add the poppy seeds, then
grate the marzipan directly into the batter. Mix to combine.
2 Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf tin and spread out into
an even layer. Bake for 50-55 minutes or until a skewer inserted
b o o anges
Blood oranges bring a bit of brightness to the
into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the
darker, colder winter months. With ruby-red
oven and leave to cool in the tin for 20 minutes before removing
to a wire rack to cool completely. flesh and an often tie-dyed peel, they’re in
3 Mix the icing sugar with the 30ml of orange juice until you have season for just a short time, from January to
a thick, pourable glaze. Pour this over the cake, encouraging it March, so use them while you can.
over the sides with a palette knife or the back of a spoon so it Sweet and slightly less tart, blood oranges are
drips down. Sprinkle with some extra poppy seeds and decorate grown in warmer climates, which also gives
with blood orange slices, if you like. It will keep, undecorated, for them a more floral flavour than other oranges.
up to three days. They’re prized for their colour, of course, and
have a good balance of sweetness and acidity,
PER SERVING �10� 382 kcals | fat 11.9G which is perfect for perking up other seasonal
saturates 6.1G | carbs 62.6G | sugars 46.6G vegetables and fruits, such as parsnips,
fibre 1.2G | protein 5.3G | salt 0.4G beetroots, radicchio, lemons and melons.
Dehydrate blood orange slices in a low oven
to preserve their crimson flesh for garnishes –
ideal for cocktails or decorating desserts – or
simply serve in a winter salad with some bitter
leaves and toasted nuts.


Lemon and lime macaroon tart

40 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 10 | EASY
LEMON AND LIME CURD

lemon juice 60ml
lime juice 60ml
lemon 1, zested, plus extra to decorate
lime 1, zested, plus extra to decorate
eggs 3 large
caster sugar 100g
unsalted butter 120g, plus extra for the tin
MACAROON TART CASE
desiccated coconut 175g
caster sugar 100g
plain flour 30g
egg whites 2 large
1 To make the curd, put all of the ingredients in a medium pan

over a low-medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened
enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon – it’s essential that
you stir the curd while cooking, otherwise the eggs may scramble.
Pour the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then cover
and chill for at least 4 hours.
2 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Lightly butter a loose-
bottomed 23cm tart tin, and line the base with a circle of baking
paper. To make the tart case, put all of the ingredients and a pinch
of salt in a large bowl, and use a spatula to mix everything until
evenly combined. Scrape the mixture into the tart tin and press
into the base and up the sides. Bake for 25 minutes or until
golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. After
20 minutes, carefully remove the macaroon tart case from the tin
and put on a wire rack to cool completely.
3 Scrape the curd into the cooled tart case and spread into an
even layer. Scatter with some citrus zest to decorate. It will keep,
chilled, for up to three days.


a perfectlyteatime
simple treat

Blueberry and lemon

crème fraîche scones
45 MINUTES + COOLING | MAKES 10 | EASY
SCONES
self-raising flour 375g, plus extra for dusting
baking powder 1 tsp
caster sugar 75g
unsalted butter 125g
crème fraîche 120ml
eggs 3 large
blueberries 350g
LEMON GLAZE
icing sugar 125g
lemon Ω, zested and juiced
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and line a large baking

tray with baking paper. For the scones, put the flour, baking
powder, sugar and 1/4 tsp of salt in a large bowl and whisk to
combine. Add the butter and rub into the mixture using your
fingertips until the butter is in pea-sized pieces. In a jug, whisk
together the crème fraîche, vanilla and two of the eggs. Make a
well in the dry ingredients, and pour in the wet mixture along with
the blueberries. Use a cutlery knife to stir the dry into the wet until
everything just starts to come together into a dough, then gently
knead the mixture with your hands and bring it into a ball of
dough. Put the ball on a lightly floured worksurface and pat into
a 21/2cm-thick disc. Use a 7cm round cutter to stamp out as many
scones as you can, and put them on the prepared tray.
2 Gently reform the dough scraps into a ball and repeat the
process, stamping out more scones (you should get about 10 in
total). Lightly beat the remaining egg, and brush this over the
scones. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden. Remove from the
oven and set aside to cool completely.
3 For the glaze, mix together the icing sugar, lemon juice and
a small pinch of salt until you have a smooth, pourable glaze.
Drizzle this over the cooled scones, then scatter with the lemon
zest. They will keep, covered, at room temperature for two days.
PER SCONE 395 kcals | fat 17.3G

saturates 10.4G | carbs 52G | sugars 23.5G
Edd Kimber was the first Great British Bake Off

winner and is the author of four baking books
(his latest, One Tin Bakes, is out now). Find more
of his recipes on Omagazine.com and follow
him on Instagram @theboywhobakes.
Omagazine.com
• Head to Omagazine.com for more seasonal bakes,
including clementine drizzle loaf, rhubarb tart with star anise,
and banana bread with passion fruit frosting.

Everyday healthy
Nadine Brown’s wholesome recipes for weekdays
Recipes NADINE BROWN Photographs JAMES LEE
nourish
high fibre
low cal
Look out for

the following
nourish
high fibre
high protein
low cal
low fat
low salt
low sugar
Ingredients listed as serving
Broken lasagne and suggestions are not included in

the nutritional analysis.
white bean soup, p36
Craving something nutritious?
Look out for our new Nourish
tag on our healthy recipes.
We’ll also spotlight high
fibre, high protein, low cal,
low fat, low salt, and
low sugar. For more
information, go to:
Omagazine.com/
guides/olive-nourish

cook healthy
Harissa pork chops with

warm carrot, cumin
and rice salad, p36
STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: TROY WILLIS
nourish
high protein
low cal

Broken lasagne and Harissa pork chops with warm
white bean soup carrot, cumin and rice salad
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V LC 35 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC
olive oil 2 tbsp, plus 2 tsp harissa 1 tbsp

carrots 2, finely chopped runny honey 1 tbsp
celery 2 stalks, finely chopped lemon juice 3 tbsp, plus wedges to serve
leek 1 large, white and pale green parts only, finely chopped pork chops 4, fat removed
garlic 3 cloves, crushed olive oil 1Ω tbsp
tomato purée 2 tbsp carrots 4, sliced diagonally, 5mm thick
peeled plum tomatoes 400g tin cumin seeds 1Ω tsp
cannellini beans 400g tin wholegrain rice and quinoa microwave pouches 2 x 220g
vegetable stock 600ml flat-leaf parsley 20g, roughly chopped
bay leaves 2 green beans 320g
dried lasagne sheets 80g, broken into bite-sized pieces
curly kale 80g, roughly chopped and tough stalks removed 1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Make a marinade by
parmesan shavings (or veggie alternative) 20g combining the harissa, honey and half the lemon juice in a large
bowl. Season the pork chops then add to the bowl, turning to
1 Put a large, deep pan over a medium heat and add 2 tbsp of oil. coat. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes, or up to a few hours
Once hot, add the carrots, celery and leek, and season with salt. in the fridge.
Cook for 6-8 minutes or until softened. Add the garlic and cook 2 Drizzle 1 tbsp of olive oil into an ovenproof pan over a medium
for 1 minute, then add the tomato purée and cook for a further heat. Once hot, gently fry the carrots for 10 minutes until lightly
2-3 minutes until the tomato paste is deep in colour. golden. Season, stir through the cumin seeds and transfer to the
2 Tip the tomatoes into a bowl and crush them with your hands, oven for 20 minutes until the carrots are deep golden and cooked
then add to the pan along with the beans (liquid and all), stock through – if your pan isn’t ovenproof, transfer the carrots to a
and bay leaves. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat, add the baking dish. Set aside to cool slightly.
pasta and kale, and cook for 6-8 minutes or until both are tender. 3 Meanwhile, brush a large non-stick griddle pan or large frying
Remove the bay leaves and season to taste. pan with the remaining oil and put over a medium heat – don’t let
3 Ladle into bowls and garnish with the parmesan shavings, some the pan get too hot or the honey will burn. Griddle the chops for
freshly ground black pepper and drizzle with the remaining oil. 6-8 minutes, turning once, until cooked through – if your pan isn’t
large enough, you may need to do this in batches. Remove from
PER SERVING 286 kcals | fat 10.2G the pan and transfer to a plate. Loosely cover and leave to rest.
saturates 2.4G | carbs 32.4G | sugars 9.1G 4 Cook the pouches following pack instructions, and boil the
fibre 8.6G | protein 11.8G | salt 1.1G green beans for 2-3 minutes until tender. Toss the grains with the
roasted carrots, parsley and remaining lemon juice, seasoning to
taste. Divide the rice mixture between four plates and serve with
the pork chops, lemon wedges and beans.
PER SERVING 537 kcals | fat 17G


cook healthy
Veggie reuben toss to coat, seasoning lightly. Return to the oven for another
10 minutes until deeply browned and tender. Remove from the
oven and leave to cool.
30 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY | V LC
2 Combine the mayo, ketchup, horseradish, pickle, onion, hot
sauce and allspice in a small bowl, seasoning lightly. Spread
closed-cup mushrooms 150g, thickly sliced one side of each bread slice with the dressing. Top one slice
rapeseed oil 1 tbsp, plus extra for brushing with the mushrooms, cheese and pickled cabbage. Top with
garlic 1 clove, crushed the other slice of bread, dressing-side down.
low-fat mayonnaise 1 tbsp 3 Put a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Brush both sides
low-salt, low-sugar tomato ketchup 1 tbsp of the sandwich with a little more oil, then add to the pan and
horseradish sauce 1 tsp press down using a spatula for 2-3 minutes until the underside
dill pickle 1/2 spear, very finely chopped, plus extra of the sandwich is golden. Carefully flip the sandwich and press
spears to serve down again for 2 minutes until golden on the other side and the
spring onion 1, white part only, very finely chopped cheese has melted. Transfer the sandwich to a plate, slice and
hot sauce a few drops serve with the dill pickles.
ground allspice a large pinch
rye bread 2 slices PER SERVING 510 kcals | fat 34.6G
Swiss cheese (such as emmental) 1 slice
pickled red cabbage 2 tbsp
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Tip the mushrooms
on a baking tray and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from
the oven and sprinkle over the garlic. Drizzle over the oil and
nourish
low cal

Brazilian-style fish stew
Moqueca Baiana, a traditional Brazilian fish
stew, is typically made with rich, red dendê
palm oil. Here, we have gone with the lighter
Moqueca Capixaba, which is just as delicious
but uses extra-virgin olive oil instead.
30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 OR 6 WITH SIDES

EASY | LC
skinless cod fillets 400g, cut into

bite-sized pieces
lime 1, zested and juiced
extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp
onion 1, finely chopped
red pepper 1, sliced
yellow pepper 1, sliced
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
smoked paprika 2 tsp
ground coriander 1 tsp
dried chilli flakes Ω tsp
chopped tomatoes 400g
tomato purée 1 tbsp
light coconut milk 400ml
vegetable stock 250ml
raw king prawns 300g
lime wedges to serve
crustry bread or cooked white rice
to serve
flat-leaf parsley chopped, to serve
1 Put the fish in a bowl with half the lime zest

and juice, and season lightly. Toss together,
cover and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.
2 Drizzle the oil into a large, deep pan over a
medium heat, then cook the onion and peppers
for 5-6 minutes or until softened. Season.
3 Add the garlic and spices, and cook for a further
minute. Tip in the chopped tomatoes and tomato
purée, and simmer over a medium heat for 6-8 minutes,
stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has
evaporated and the mixture is thick.
4 Pour in the coconut milk and stock. Bring to a boil,
then reduce the heat, add the marinated fish and
prawns, and simmer on a low heat for 5 minutes
until just cooked through.
5 Stir in the remaining lime juice and zest,
seasoning to taste. Serve on its own with the
lime wedges, or with crusty bread or cooked
white rice, and some parsley scattered over.
PER SERVING �6� 289 kcals | fat 12G

saturates 7G | carbs 13.2G | sugars 11.2G
fibre 5.1G | protein 29.3G | salt 1G
high protein
low cal
low fat
low salt

cook healthy
Cornmeal and whisking as you go, until just combined. Some lumps are fine,
but you don’t want to see any traces of flour.
blueberry pancakes 2 Coat 200g of the blueberries in the remaining tsp of flour
and then gently fold into the batter along with most of the
35 MINUTES + RESTING | SERVES 4 | EASY orange zest. Leave the batter to rest for 5 minutes.
3 Heat the oven to a low temp – this is just to keep your pancakes
wholemeal flour 115g, plus 1 tsp warm. Put a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat
fine cornmeal 115g and add 1 tsp of oil. Once hot, add enough batter for four
baking powder Ω tsp pancakes (approximately 2 tbsp per pancake). Cook for 1Ω-
bicarbonate of soda Ω tsp 2 minutes or until the bottoms are golden. Carefully turn the
maple syrup 2 tbsp, plus more to drizzle pancakes and cook for another 1Ω minutes until cooked through.
buttermilk 320ml If you find the pancakes are cooking to quickly on the outside,
eggs 2 lower the heat.
butter 25g, melted 4 Transfer the cooked pancakes to a baking sheet and put in the
blueberries 320g oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter in two more
orange 1, zested batches, using 1 tsp of oil for each batch, if necessary. Stack
rapeseed oil 3 tsp three pancakes on each plate, and add a dollop of yogurt, a
low-fat yogurt 4 tbsp drizzle of maple syrup and a sprinkling of the remaining orange
zest to serve.
1 Sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and bicarb
into a large bowl with a good pinch of salt. Whisk together the PER SERVING 461 kcals | fat 16.5G
maple syrup, buttermilk, eggs and melted butter in a jug. saturates 7.3G | carbs 60.6G | sugars 19.8G
Gradually add the buttermilk mixture to the dry ingredients, fibre 5.2G | protein 15.2G | salt 0.9G
nourish
Omagazine.com Nadine Brown is a recipe writer and food editor

• Head to Omagazine.com for our with six years of experience writing healthy recipes.
nourishing recipe collections, including high-protein There’s always an interesting, nourishing bowl
vegetarian meals and gut-friendly breakfasts. of food at her table. Find her on Instagram @n0sh.17.

Made for two
Gorgeous, special dishes to make at home when it’s just the pair of you
Recipes ANNA GLOVER Photographs STUART OVENDEN
Valentine’s Sunday roast

Easy roast chicken
All the decadence and comfort of a full roast but without 3 Heat the remaining oil in a shallow tray above the chicken for a
the trays, prep and washing up. You can use any left-over few minutes, then gently lower the potatoes into the hot fat, and
chicken in the caesar salad on p44. spoon over the oil. Add the carrots to the tray. Season well and
roast above the chicken for 40 minutes or until golden and crisp,
tossing halfway through.
1 HOUR 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 �WITH LEFTOVERS� | EASY 4 When the chicken is cooked, remove to a platter, cover loosely
in foil and leave to rest for 15 minutes. While the chicken is
whole chicken 1 small resting, put the shallot into the tray with the chicken juices,
lemon 1, halved and cook over a medium heat (transfer to a frying pan if your
bay leaf 1 roasting tin doesn’t work on the hob). Fry for 6-8 minutes or until
vegetable oil 4 tbsp translucent. Stir in the mustard and stock. Simmer until reduced
potatoes 2-3 large, quartered by half, then stir in the crème fraîche and bring to a bubble. Stir in
carrots 3-4, scrubbed and trimmed the tarragon and broad beans, season with salt and pepper, and
shallot 1, finely chopped a squeeze of lemon. Cook until the broad beans are tender.
dijon mustard 2 tsp 5 Carve the chicken and serve with the roast potatoes, carrots,
chicken stock 100ml and a spoonful of the broad bean and tarragon sauce. Leftovers
crème fraîche 4 tbsp will keep, chilled, for two to three days.
tarragon Ω a small bunch, leaved picked and chopped
broad beans 200g (frozen or doubled podded)
STYLING: SARAH BIRKS. FOOD STYLING: STUART OVENDEN

1 Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Put the chicken in a
medium roasting tin, and remove any string. Squeeze half the
lemon over the skin and put the lemon half in the cavity with the
bay leaf. Season inside and out. Rub 1 tbsp of oil over the skin
and transfer to the oven. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn down the
heat to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and roast for 40-50 minutes or until
cooked through. Check by inserting a knife into the meat between
the leg and breast – the juices should run clear.
2 Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in salted water for 15 minutes until
just tender throughout without falling apart. Drain well and leave
to steam dry.

cook valentine’s day

15-minute celebration supper
Lemon sole with brown
shrimp butter
This dish might be quick and easy but certainly doesn’t
feel everyday – it makes for an elegant Valentine’s Day meal.
You can use small Atlantic prawns, if you like, but the
sweetness of the brown shrimp really adds to the delicacy
of this dish. Use spring onion, dill or parsley instead of
chives, if you prefer.
15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | GF
new potatoes 300g, scrubbed and halved if large

purple sprouting broccoli 200g, trimmed
vegetable oil for grilling
lemon sole fillets 2
butter 50g
ground mace a pinch
peeled brown shrimp 100g
lemon Ω, zested and juiced, plus wedges to serve
chives or dill Ω a small bunch, finely chopped
1 Put the potatoes in a pan (the base of a tiered steamer stack, if

you have one) of boiling salted water and cook for 15 minutes until
Weekend brunch tender when pierced with the tip of sharp knife. After 10 minutes,
put the broccoli in the steamer basket above the potatoes, put the
Full English pancakes lid on and cook for 5-6 minutes or until the stems are tender – if
you don’t have a steamer basket, then steam/boil the broccoli in
25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY a lidded pan in a few centimetres of water for 3-4 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, heat the grill to medium-high. Cover a grill tray or
self-raising flour 150g baking tray with baking paper and oil lightly. Season the fillets
baking powder Ω tsp on the flesh side, and put on the prepared tray, skin-side up, to
milk 200ml protect the flesh when cooking. When the potatoes have had
eggs 3 10 minutes, grill for 3-6 minutes or until the fish flakes when gently
chives Ω a small bunch, finely chopped pressed, and the skin is tinged golden brown.
sausages 2 3 While the potatoes and fish are cooking, and everything is
vine tomato 1, halved nearly ready, melt the butter in a frying pan until foaming. Add a
portobellini mushrooms 4 pinch of salt if the butter is unsalted, and the ground mace along
olive oil a drizzle, plus extra for frying with a crack of black pepper. When the butter solids start to turn
streaky bacon 4 rashers golden and it’s smelling nutty, stir in the prawns for a few seconds
soft cheese 2 tbsp then remove from the heat. Stir in the lemon zest, a squeeze of
chilli or bacon jam to serve juice and the chives or dill.
4 Put the potatoes and lemon sole onto warm plates, along with
1 Whisk the flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt in a large the broccoli. Spoon over the shrimp butter, scatter over a few
bowl until well mixed. Add the milk and crack in one of the eggs. more chives and serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over –
Whisk until smooth, then fold in half the chives. and a cold glass of white wine.
2 Heat the grill to medium-high. Put the sausages, tomato halves
and mushrooms under the grill. Season the mushrooms and PER SERVING 430 kcals | fat 22.3G
tomatoes, and drizzle with a little oil. Cook for 10-15 minutes, saturates 13.5G | carbs 22.2G | sugars 2.9G
turning a couple of times, adding the bacon after 5 minutes. fibre 6.4G | protein 32.1G | salt 1.6G
Grill until the sausages and bacon are golden and cooked
through, and the tomato and mushrooms are tender. Remove
from the grill when done.
3 Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a non-stick frying pan and fry
spoonfuls of batter until golden. Flip and cook for another few
minutes until golden on both sides. Poach the other two eggs.
4 Serve the pancakes stacked with the soft cheese, a poached
egg, sausage, bacon, mushrooms and tomato. Scatter with the
remaining chives and a dollop of bacon or chilli jam.



A lunch to make together if you’re both WFH

Caesar salad with cheesy croutons 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tear or cut the bread
into bite-sized croutons and tip onto a baking tray, drizzle with the
olive oil and season with cracked black pepper. Toss well and
You can add a softly boiled egg, a few crispy bacon rashers bake for 10 minutes until golden and crisp. Sprinkle over 1 tbsp
or some sundried tomatoes to this dish, if you like. Use light of grated parmesan, and toss well. Bake for another 2-3 minutes
olive oil, or half sunflower and half olive oil – otherwise the until the cheese melts onto the croutons. Leave to cool for a few
dressing will be too bitter and ‘green’ tasting with good olive minutes before assembling.
oil. With all the salty elements such as anchovies, parmesan 2 Meanwhile, put the egg yolk, garlic, mustard and lemon juice in
a jug. Finely chop 2 anchovies and add to the jug. Season lightly,
and mustard, season with pepper but go easy on the salt.
then blend with a stick blender until smooth. Slowly add the oil
with the motor still running, and blend until thickened. Check for
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC
seasoning, adding a dash more lemon, mustard or a splash of
water to loosen if you need to. Stir in 2 tbsp of grated parmesan.
sourdough or bloomer 2 slices
3 Put the lettuce and chicken into a large bowl with 4 heaped
olive oil 1 tbsp
tbsp of the dressing, and toss everything until evenly and lightly
parmesan finely grated to make 1 tbsp, plus shavings to serve
coated, rather than being drenched in the dressing – add a little
brown anchovies 8
more to coat the leaves if you need to, though. Add the croutons
Little Gem lettuces 2, leaves separated
and toss briefly again. Divide between two plates, top with
roast chicken 100-150g, torn into bite-sized pieces
anchovies, parmesan shavings and another crack of black
CAESAR DRESSING
pepper. Add an extra dollop of dressing to dip the croutons in,
egg yolk 1
if you like. The left-over dressing will keep, chilled, for three days.
garlic Ω a small clove
dijon mustard 2 tsp
lemon juice 1 tbsp PER SERVING 517 kcals | fat 35.2G
light olive oil 100ml saturates 7.7G | carbs 20.4G | sugars 4.3G
parmesan finely grated to make 2 tbsp fibre 4.1G | protein 27.6G | salt 2.8G

Olive oil sprays are a great way
to control the amount of oil used in
your cooking. Filippo Berio 100% olive oil
sprays are also dual-action for added versatility.
Let the Extra Virgin spray add flavour to your

salads, vegetables, fish or meat. While the
Mild & Light spray is perfect for coating pans
for stir fries, frying or roast potatoes.
For delicious olive oils in a handy spray,

trust Filippo Berio.
Find us at your local supermarket.
His signature. Our promise.

O
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cook leftovers
Leftovers love
Make the most of ragu from the night before
on this clever pizza, perfect for a Friday night in
Recipe ANNA GLOVER Photographs SAM STOWELL
Bolognese pizza
35 MINUTES + PROVING | MAKES 1 LARGE
PIZZA (SERVES 2-4) | EASY | LC
bolognese ragu 200g

grated mozzarella 100g
parmesan finely grated to make 2 tbsp
butter 25g, melted
garlic 1 clove, crushed
basil leaves to serve (optional)
PIZZA DOUGH
strong white bread flour 250g, plus extra
for dusting
fine sea salt Ω tsp
fast-action dried yeast 1 tsp
olive oil 1 tbsp, plus extra for the pan
1 Make the dough by putting the flour, yeast, oil

and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt in a bowl. Add 150ml of
warm water and knead briefly until it comes together.
Tip onto a lightly floured worksurface and knead for
10 minutes until elastic and smooth. Cover and leave to
prove for 1 hour until doubled in size.
2 Heat the oven to 240C/fan 220C/gas 9. Lightly oil a large
ovenproof frying pan or skillet. Knock back the dough into the
bowl, then roll out until it’s a little larger than the size of the
frying pan.
3 Lift the dough into the pan, and fold over the sides to form
a crust. Spoon the ragu into the middle of the pizza, then
STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE REYNOLDS
scatter over both the cheeses. Heat the pan over a medium
heat for 5 minutes until the crust starts to look puffy, and the
base is lightly golden.
4 Mix together the butter and garlic, and brush over the crust.
Transfer to the oven and cook for 12-15 minutes or until the
cheese is molten and bubbling, and the crust springs back when
pressed. Scatter over some more parmesan and a few torn basil
leaves, if you like, to serve.
PER SERVING (4) 520 kcals | fat 24.5G


Smart suppers
Four easy and delicious midweek meals
packed with satisfying, nourishing carbs
Recipes NICOLA GRAIMES Photographs HAARALA HAMILTON
cook simple twists
White fish with butternut

and ginger mash
Mash doesn’t have to mean potatoes, and it’s well worth
experimenting with alternatives – carrots, parsnips,
celeriac, jerusalem artichokes and sweet potato versions
are all delicious.
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC GF
extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp

ginger 3cm piece, cut into matchsticks
hake (or other sustainable firm white fish, such as haddock)
4 thick fillets
butter 20g
steamed long-stemmed broccoli and lime wedges to serve
MASH
butternut squash 1kg, peeled and cut into chunks
garlic 4 cloves, peeled Beetroot spaghetti with
ginger 5cm piece, sliced into rounds
red jalapeño chillies 2, deseeded and diced dolcelatte, walnuts and chard
coconut milk 115ml
lime Ω, juiced, plus extra if needed Wholemeal pasta is nutritionally superior to white as it
coriander 2 handfuls, chopped, plus extra to serve is richer in fibre, iron, zinc, magnesium and selenium,
yet visually it’s perhaps not so appealing. The addition of
1 To make the mash, put the squash in a pan with the garlic and
beetroot brightens things up, turning the pasta a vibrant
ginger, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat
and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until tender. pinky-red while also contributing fibre, vitamin C and iron.
Drain well and pick out the ginger. Return the squash to the hot
pan and add half the chilli, most of the coconut milk and the lime 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V
juice. Mash until smooth, adding the rest of the coconut milk,
if needed. Season and stir in three-quarters of the coriander rainbow chard 125g, stalks and leaves separated, sliced
leaves. Taste and add more lime juice if needed. cooked beetroot 175g, drained and roughly chopped
2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over a walnut pieces 75g
medium heat and fry the ginger for 2 minutes until crisp and extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain onion 1, finely chopped
on kitchen paper. garlic 3 cloves, finely chopped
3 Season the fish with salt and pepper. Add the remaining oil and wholewheat spaghetti 300g
the butter to the frying pan, and heat over a high heat. Put the lemon juice a squeeze
fish, skin-side down, in the pan, then reduce the heat to medium. dolcelatte or gorgonzola 125g, crumbled into chunks
Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the skin is crisp and golden, and
you can see the flesh has cooked two-thirds of the way up. Turn 1 Steam the chard leaves and stalks, then refresh them under
the fish over, baste with the buttery oil and cook for a further cold running water and set aside.
2 minutes or until just cooked and the fish is opaque and flaky. 2 Purée the beetroot using a stick blender in a bowl and set
4 Warm the mash if needed and spoon onto four serving plates. aside. Toast the walnuts in a large, dry frying pan for 3 minutes,
Top with the broccoli and fish, and scatter over the crispy ginger, tossing them occasionally until they start to colour. Set aside.
the remaining chilli and coriander leaves before serving. 3 Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and fry
the onion for 7 minutes until softened, then add the garlic and
cook for a further minute. Add the beetroot purée and cook,
PER SERVING 341 KCALS | fat 16.7G
stirring, for 2 minutes until reduced slightly.
saturates 7.9G | carbs 20.7G | sugars 15.1G 4 Cook the spaghetti in plenty of boiling salted water following
fibre 5.2G | protein 24.5G | salt 0.3G pack instructions. When the pasta is cooked but still a little al
dente, drain, saving 100ml of the cooking water. Add the pasta
to the beetroot mixture along with enough of the cooking water
to make a light sauce. Turn the pasta to coat it in the sauce,
adding more of the cooking water, if needed. Add the chard
leaves and stalks, a good squeeze of lemon juice and season.
Warm through briefly.
5 Spoon the pasta into four large shallow bowls and finish with
the toasted walnuts and dolcelatte or gorgonzola scattered over.

fibre 11.1G | protein 21.4G | salt 1G

Quick roast chicken with white garlic 4 cloves, halved
unsalted butter 40g
bean and rosemary mash dijon mustard 2 tsp
rosemary finely chopped to make 2 tsp
Much as I love potatoes, this herby white bean mash 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Season the chicken
makes a fantastic right-carb alternative. You can either thighs and put in a large roasting tin. Toss the onion wedges in
mash the beans roughly with a potato masher so they the oil and dot around the chicken. Squeeze over the lemon juice
retain a bit of texture, or blend using a stick blender into and cut the halves into chunks and put in the tin. Tuck in the bay
a smooth and creamy sauce. Chicken thighs are not only leaves and rosemary sprigs. Roast for 20 minutes, then remove
full of flavour, they’re much cheaper than breasts – try to the rosemary and add the tomatoes, and cook for a further
buy organic, free-range, if you can. 15 minutes or until the chicken is golden and cooked through.
2 Meanwhile, make the mash. Put all the ingredients, except the
50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF rosemary, in a pan over a medium heat, stirring occasionally.
When it almost starts to bubble, reduce the heat to low and
chicken thighs 6-8 cook, covered with a lid, for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and set
red onions 2, each cut into 6 wedges aside for the flavours to infuse while the chicken is roasting.
extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp 3 When ready to serve, remove the bay leaf from the beans and
lemon 1 large, halved either mash with a potato masher or blend using a stick blender
bay leaves 3 until smooth and creamy. Season, stir in the rosemary and
rosemary 2 sprigs warm through.
small vine-ripened tomatoes 300g 4 Serve the chicken with the tomatoes and onions, spooning
WHITE BEAN MASH over any juices from the tin, and the bean mash on the side.
cannellini beans 2 x 400g tins, drained and rinsed
whole milk 270ml PER SERVING 601 kcals | fat 32.2G
bay leaves 3 saturates 12.3G | carbs 31.1G | sugars 11.8G

cook simple twists
Omelette wrap
with satay sauce
Ring the changes with an omelette wrap, which takes
the place of the more usual wheat-based tortilla wrap.
The right-carb element comes in the form of brown
jasmine rice, which is combined with crunchy raw
vegetables, a peanut sauce, lots of herbs and a lively red
onion pickle to make a nutritious filling.
55 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V
brown jasmine rice 165g, rinsed

toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp
red onion 1 small, thinly sliced
apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp
red cabbage 100g, shredded
carrots 2, cut into matchsticks
cucumber Ω, deseeded and cut into ribbons
eggs 8
butter 40g
coriander a large handful
SATAY SAUCE
peanut butter 150g
lime 1, juiced
light soy sauce 2 tsp
toasted sesame oil 2 tsp, plus extra for the salad
ginger 5cm piece, finely grated
garlic 1 large clove, crushed
dried chilli flakes Ω tsp, plus extra to serve
1 Cook the rice following pack instructions and drain if needed.

Leave to sit for 5 minutes, then stir in the sesame seeds.
2 Meanwhile, put the onion in a bowl and pour over the vinegar.
Set aside to pickle until ready to serve.
3 Whizz together all the ingredients for the satay sauce with
4 tbsp of just-boiled water in a high-powered blender.
4 Put the cabbage, carrots and cucumber in a bowl, drizzle over
a little sesame oil, season and toss until combined.
5 To make the omelettes, beat 2 eggs in a bowl and season.
Heat a quarter of the butter in a medium frying pan over a
medium-low heat and add the beaten eggs. Tip the pan to coat
the base with the eggs and cook for a minute or two until set.
Keep the omelette warm, covered, in a low oven, while you
make the remaining three omelettes.
6 To serve, top the omelettes with the rice and vegetable salad.
Spoon over the satay sauce and finish with the onion pickle,
coriander and an extra sprinkling of chilli flakes. Serve flat or
fold the omelette over to encase the filling.

Recipes extracted from The Right Carb

by Nicola Graimes (£9.99, Pavilion Books).
These recipes were supplied by the publisher
and not retested by us.

3 w ysgochujang
w th
Give your dishes an adventurous twist
with this spicy Korean chilli paste
Recipes ANNA GLOVER Photographs JAMES LEE
Gochujang-glazed chicken
and sweet potato traybake
1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
whole chicken legs 4

toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp
sweet potatoes 3 medium, peeled and cut into large chunks
spring onions 7, 6 trimmed and cut into lengths, 1 finely sliced
to serve
long-stemmed broccoli 300g, trimmed, larger stems halved
frozen edamame beans or peas 320g
GOCHUJANG GLAZE
gochujang 4 tbsp
ginger grated to make 2 tsp
soft light brown sugar 2 tbsp
rice vinegar 2 tbsp
sesame oil 1 tsp
fish sauce 1 tsp
soy sauce 1 tbsp
1 Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Put the chicken legs in

a baking tray, rub with the oil and season. Roast for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the gochujang glaze ingredients in a small pan
and bring to a simmer. Cook for 1-2 minutes or until thickened
slightly. Remove from the heat.
2 Tip the sweet potatoes, spring onions and broccoli in the tray
with the chicken, and toss everything to coat in the juices and oil.
Roast for a further 20 minutes until the sweet potatoes are tender,
and the broccoli stalks are starting to soften.
3 Spoon the glaze over the chicken in the tray, and stir any
remaining through the sweet potatoes and broccoli. Roast for a
further 10-15 minutes or until the chicken is golden and cooked
through. Pour a kettle of just-boiled water over the beans or peas
in a bowl, and leave to thaw and cook gently. Stir them through the
traybake and top with some finely sliced spring onions to serve.

saturates 5G | carbs 63.7G | sugars 37G
fibre 14G | protein 33G | salt 1.9G

cook 3 ways with
Gochujang egg mayo Gochujang buttered cauliflower

If you’re rushed for time, stir the gochujang into ready- with quick pickles
made mayo with a squeeze of lime.

cauliflower 1 small or Ω large, cut into wedges
eggs 3 sesame oil 1 tbsp
spring onion 1, finely sliced thai sticky rice or sushi rice 150g
black or white sesame seeds 1 tsp rice vinegar 100ml
soft white sandwich bread 4 slices shallot 1, finely chopped
prawn cocktail crisps and watercress to serve red chilli 1 small, finely chopped
MAYO caster sugar a pinch
egg yolk 1 cucumber 1/2, sliced or ribboned
wasabi or horseradish 1 tsp mooli or radishes 100g, sliced
lime 1, juiced butter 2 tbsp, softened
gochujang 3 tbsp white miso 1 tsp
light olive oil or grapeseed oil 150ml gochujang 1 tbsp
black sesame seeds to serve
1 Boil the eggs for 10 minutes, then drain and cool under cold
running water. Peel, roughly chop two and halve one lengthways. 1 Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Put the cauliflower on
2 While the eggs are cooking, make the mayo. Whizz the egg yolk, a baking tray and drizzle over the sesame oil. Rub in to coat well.
wasabi, lime and gochujang in a jug with a hand blender. Slowly Season, cover with foil and bake for 30-40 minutes or until tender.
drizzle in the oil with the motor still running until a thick, smooth 2 Cook the rice following pack instructions, then leave to steam
mayo forms. Taste for seasoning, adding more citrus, a dash of in the pan until ready to serve. Stir the rice vinegar, shallot, chilli,
rice vinegar or more wasabi, if you like. Add 1 tbsp of water if the and sugar in a bowl with a pinch of salt until the sugar dissolves.
STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: TROY WILLIS
mayo is very thick. You’ll make more than you need, so cover and Toss with the cucumber and mooli, then set aside to pickle.
chill half – it will keep, covered and chilled, for up to three days. 3 Meanwhile, mash together the butter, miso and gochujang in
3 Stir the chopped eggs, spring onion and sesame seeds into the a small bowl with a pinch of salt. After 30 minutes, remove the
mayo and season. Divide between the four pieces of bread, and foil from the cauliflower, and spoon the gochujang butter over
add an egg half to the middle of two of them. Sandwich with the the steaks, helping it to melt into the florets. Roast again for
other two pieces. Cut in half, to serve, to show the cross section 10-15 minutes or until the stalks are tender and the tips are
of the yolk in the middle. Serve with some prawn cocktail crisps golden. Serve with the sticky rice and the cucumber pickle
and watercress, if you like. alongside. Scatter over the sesame seeds to serve.
PER SERVING 694 kcals | fat 54.6G PER SERVING 557 kcals | fat 20.1G
saturates 9.1G | carbs 32.1G | sugars 4.2G saturates 8.9G | carbs 78.2G | sugars 11.7G
fibre 2.1G | protein 17G | salt 1.4G fibre 5.8G | protein 13G | salt 0.9G

cook on test
the O
taste test
Marmalade
We put branded products to the test so
you know which ones to look out for.
This month, we trialled 11 marmalades
cook's tips
You can often tell a marmalade’s
to see which came out on top strength and bitterness from its
colour. The darker the marmalade’s
hue, the stronger and more bitter
HOW WE TESTED it will be. If you’re making your first
We tasted all the marmalades raw, looking at peel thickness, peel foray into marmalade, get a lighter
amount and consistency, as well as the overall flavour. We then looking one.
spread each one on buttered sourdough toast (writer’s own!) and
tasted them again.
Where possible we chose marmalades with thick-cut peel, as
we feel this is the cut for a true marmalade aficionado.
We’ve highlighted a few of the best for flavour, with one
all-rounder that came out on top.
Harvey Nichols Waitrose Duchy Wilkin & Sons Ltd Fortnum & Mason Rosebud Preserves
Seville Orange Thin Organic Seville ‘Tawny’ Orange Burlington Seville Orange
Cut Marmalade Orange Marmalade Thick Cut Breakfast Marmalade
£3.50/340g Thick Cut Marmalade Marmalade Medium Cut
The perfect entry-level £2/340g £2.30/454g £4.95/340g £3.95/227g
marmalade. A thick set with A dark orange colour One for the marmalade As its name suggests, this A beautiful soft set with a
a light orange colour and with plenty of thick connoisseur. Devilishly dark may well be the perfect dark, intense colour. The rind
delicate, thin peel. It’s on the strips of peel in a smooth with a slight caramelised marmalade for those early is cut into thick squares,
sweeter side, with less of the orange jam. A really flavour and chunky but mornings. A beautiful orange making it easy to spread
intense bitterness of some of balanced marmalade, plenty tender peel. Very bitter and colour with a nice, thick set. and giving intense bursts of
the others but has a really of bitterness matched with a grown-up flavour. It was Absolutely packed with orangey bitterness that is
rounded orange flavour. sweet, zesty flavour. A good probably the most intense thin-cut, tender peel that is absolutely perfect when
Perfect for the newly all-rounder and would be marmalade we tried, so not matched with a bright and eaten on toast. This was
converted, for kids or when perfect for baking. one for the newbies but fresh jam that’s packed with matched with a balanced,
you want to eat lots of rather the hardened orange flavour. Perfect for sweet-sour zestiness from
marmalade toast without marmalade superfan. breakfast or baking. the preserve itself and
getting taste bud fatigue. lip-smacking orange flavour.
9/10
7/10 7/10 8/10 8/10 overall
winner PHOTOGRAPH: MANUELA RUTHER/STOCKFOOD

discover
Learn some new twists on classic
Aussie recipes, explore the flavours
of Bologna, and get excited about
the optimistic chefs and owners
opening bold new restaurants.

eat in eat out
Milk Beach
Try out some new ingredients to make these
modern Aussie-inspired recipes
Recipes DARREN LEADBEATER Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

discover eat in, eat out
Milk Beach serves Australian-inspired dishes

in London’s Queen’s Park, and has a heated,
well-spaced al fresco area that was popular
between lockdowns. Head chef Darren
Leadbeater is from Mackay, Queensland. He has
worked in Sydney’s leading restaurants, where
he developed an interest in Asian �avours that
in�uences his cooking today. Owner Elliot
Milne is passionate about low-intervention
wines and co�ee, and helped set up the Co�ee
Initiative Project in Ethiopia. Milk Beach roasts
and sells co�ee in small batches from farmers
the project has assisted. For more on this and
delivery options, go to milkbeach.com.
Potato gems, buttermilk roe

Think of these little ‘gems’ as your best ever hash browns.
menu deco er 45 MINUTES + COOLING + OVERNIGHT CHILLING

SERVES 6 AS A SIDE OR STARTER | A LITTLE EFFORT | GF
Désirée potatoes 500g

• White miso clarified butter or ghee 40g, melted
This cultured paste is made by fermenting soy potato flour 25g
beans and often white rice, using a mould vegetable oil for deep frying
called koji. It has a sweet, salty, funky flavour TO SERVE
that adds depth to dishes. buttermilk 250ml
Tabasco a few drops
• Togarashi salmon roe 3 tbsp
A Japanese spice mix, often sold as ‘shichimi’,
chives 4, cut into 4cm pieces
referring to its seven ingredients. These include
red chilli flakes, sansho pepper, orange peel,
1 Cook the potatoes in a large pan of lightly salted boiling water
sesame seeds, nori seaweed and more.
for 10 minutes or until almost fully cooked but not completely
• Kewpie mayonnaise tender. Drain and leave to cool slightly, then peel.
2 Finely grate the potatoes into a large bowl. Add the butter,
This differs from normal mayonnaise as it’s
seasoned with rice vinegar and often MSG, potato flour and 1 tsp of salt. Line a 22cm x 14cm dish
which makes it sweet, salty and tangy. (we used a 900g loaf tin) with baking paper, then tip in the
mixture. Push it into the corners, then smooth the surface so
• Panko breadcrumbs there are no air pockets. The layer should be 3-4cm thick. Put
a same-sized dish on top to weigh it down, then chill overnight.
THE INFORMATION IN THIS FEATURE WAS CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT
These are larger and lighter than traditional

breadcrumbs, as they’re made from crustless 3 Set a colander lined with muslin (or a thin tea towel or some
white bread and kept in larger pieces. They kitchen paper) in the sink and pour in the buttermilk. Leave until
make the finished product even crunchier. some of the whey has drained away, then chill for 3-4 hours until
slightly firm. Tip the buttermilk into a clean bowl, season lightly
• Buttermilk and add some Tabasco to taste. Chill until ready to serve.
Traditionally a by-product from the butter- 4 Turn the potato layer out onto a board. Cut into 24 cubes,
making process, the buttermilk we buy in shops roughly 4cm x 4cm. Fill a pan no more than a third full with oil
is actually closer to a cultured yogurt – it’ll give and heat to 180C or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds.
a rich acidic tang to your cooking. Fry the cubes in small batches for 2-3 minutes per batch until
deeply golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on
kitchen paper. Season with sea salt. Keep warm in a low oven.
5 To serve, spoon a dot of buttermilk over each potato cube,
followed by Ω tsp of salmon roe, a snip of chive and a pinch
of sea salt.


Chicken ‘schnitty’ and
fermented chilli mayo
Darren makes his own koji paste to marinate
the chicken, which makes it incredibly tender,
as it breaks down the proteins. This recipe
swaps it for miso, which will give a similar
flavour. Milk Beach also uses chicken salt
to season its chips – we’ve swapped this
for regular sea salt flakes.
1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + BRINING +

FERMENTING + MARINATING | SERVES 4
A LITTLE EFFORT
salad leaves to serve

4% CHIPS
Maris Piper potatoes 4-6 large, peeled
fine sea salt 40g
vegetable oil for deep frying
FERMENTED CHILLI MAYO
long red chillies 1kg, stalks removed
garlic 35g (about 1 large bulb), peeled
ginger 35g, peeled
coriander Ω a small bunch
caster sugar 2 tsp
Kewpie mayonnaise 8 tbsp
SCHNITTY
corn-fed chicken breasts 4 (about 180g each)
white miso 100g
panko breadcrumbs 150g
togarashi 15g
clarified butter 50g
sunflower oil 2 tbsp
3-4 minutes per batch until golden and crunchy.
1 Start preparing the chips five days before serving. Cut the Drain and season well with sea salt.
potatoes into 2cm-thick chips. Heat 1 litre of water in a pan 6 Spoon 3 tbsp of the chilli pulp from the
and add 40g of fine sea salt. Whisk until fully dissolved, then fermented mixture (it will have separated during
remove from the heat. Leave to cool. Put the potatoes in a the fermentation process) into a blender and whizz
sterilised jar or container, and pour over the brine so they’re with the mayonnaise until emulsified and thick.
completely submerged. Leave in a cool, dry place for five days, 7 For the chicken, blend 50g of the panko and all the
removing the lid every day to release the carbon dioxide that togarashi in a food processor to a fine powder. Tip
can build up. into a large, shallow container and mix with the
2 Start preparing the chilli mayo three days before serving. Put remaining panko and 1 tbsp of fine sea salt. Coat each
all the ingredients except the mayo, plus 2 tsp of fine sea salt, chicken breast in the breadcrumb mixture, pressing it down
into a blender and whizz to a fine purée. Pour into a sterilised to coat well. Heat the butter in a non-stick frying pan with half
jar or container and leave in a cool, dark place for three days, of the sunflower oil and cook the schnitzels, one at a time, for
removing the lid every day to release the carbon dioxide that can 4-5 minutes on each side until deeply golden, adding a little
build up. This will make more than you’ll need but it will keep in more oil if needed. Keep warm in a low oven as you go.
the fridge for a few months. 8 Put the chicken schnitzels on plates, spoon over some of the
3 The night before serving, cut each chicken breast through the fermented chilli mayo, and serve with the chips and some salad.
middle so they can be opened out like a book. Open them out,
then put each one between two pieces of baking paper and use PER SERVING 1,149 kcals | fat 67.8G
a rolling pin to bash them out to a large, even piece, about
11/2cm thick. Whisk the miso with 50ml of water or just enough
to make a thin paste – you want it to be able to loosely coat the
chicken breasts. Tip the miso into a large bowl or container, add
the chicken breasts and toss to coat. Chill overnight.
4 To cook the chips, fill a pan no more than a third full with
vegetable oil and heat to 140C or until a cube of bread browns in
co ’s no s
If you don’t want to make the 4% chips, you can deep-fry frozen chunky
1 minute. Fry the chips in batches for 10 minutes per batch until chips in 180C oil for 4-5 minutes until golden and crunchy instead. If you
cooked through and light golden. Drain and cool. like, you could also skip fermenting the chillies and just blend the
5 Turn the heat up until the oil reaches 180C or until a cube of mayonnaise with sriracha for a sweet, funky shortcut.
bread browns in 30 seconds. Again fry the chips in batches for

discover eat in, eat out
Single-origin coffee custard

tart with coffee crumble
2 HOURS 10 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 10
A LITTLE EFFORT
TART BASE
caster sugar 90g
butter 120g
plain flour 200g, plus extra for dusting
cornflour 15g
egg yolk 1
COFFEE CUSTARD
espresso 120ml (find Milk Beach’s single-origin coffee beans
at milkbeach.com/shop)
double cream 400ml
egg yolks 9
caster sugar 90g
COFFEE CRUMBLE
dark chocolate 50g
butter 30g, melted
used coffee grounds 40g
caster sugar 60g
plain flour 30g
1 To make the base, beat together the sugar and butter using an
electric whisk until light and fluffy. Add the plain flour, cornflour
and a pinch of salt, then bring together into a dough using your
hands, adding 1 tsp of cold water at a time until smooth. Wrap
and chill for at least 1 hour.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Roll the pastry out on
a lightly floured worksurface, then use it to line a 28cm loose-
bottomed tart case. Trim the edges, line the tart with baking
paper, then tip in some baking beads and bake for 15 minutes.
Remove the beads and paper, pierce the pastry with a fork and
turn down the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Bake for 10 minutes
Sunny side cocktail more, then turn down the oven again to 120C/fan 100C/gas 1.
Whisk the egg yolk, brush it over the base, and bake the case
5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY for another 5 minutes.
3 Mix together all of the coffee custard ingredients, then carefully
chilli-infused rum 25ml pour into the tart case. Bake for 45 minutes-1 hour or until just
mango purée 50ml set with a slight wobble in the middle. Remove from the oven
lemon juice 1 tbsp and leave to cool.
ginger beer 100ml 4 To make the crumble, melt the chocolate and butter in a
grenadine a splash heatproof bowl in the microwave in short bursts. Combine the
red chilli 1, finely sliced, to garnish dry ingredients in a separate bowl. Mix the wet into the dry, then
chill for 1 hour. Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Spread
1 Combine the rum, mango purée, lemon juice the crumble mixture over a baking tray and bake for 10 minutes.
and ginger beer. Pour over ice in a tall glass. Remove from the oven, break up roughly with a fork and bake for
2 Add a splash of grenadine and garnish with another 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
a chilli slice to serve. 5 Top the cooled tart with the coffee crumble, then cut into
slices to serve.


discover wine
A fresh take on beaujolais

O’s wine expert, Kate Hawkings, is all for drinking young reds this winter
Beaujolais, affectionately nicknamed ‘bojo’, has always because of the spirit of cooperation and sharing of ideas Kate Hawkings
stood in the shadow of its more famous neighbour, and equipment that the province’s producers are known is a writer and
Burgundy, which lies directly to the north and is home for. “Everybody is welcome, as long as they’re not snobs,” wine consultant.
to some of the world’s most expensive wines. says winemaker Julien Sunier (julien-sunier.com). Her debut book,
In contrast, Beaujolais is known for its simple reds, “We work hand in hand together.” Aperitif, was
designed to be drunk young. “Le beaujolais nouveau est Gamay is the main grape here, snappy with red berry published in 2018. Follow her
arrivé!” is the cry when bottles are released on the third flavours and gentle scents of violets. They’re best served on Twitter @katehawkings.
Thursday in November, a mere six weeks or so after the lightly chilled to make the most of their bright freshness,
grapes are harvested. They can be joyously juicy and but this doesn’t mean they’re only for summer – enjoy Omagazine.com
oh-so-gluggable, or just a bit thin and mean. in the gloom of winter (delicious alongside mildly spiced • Check out our best
Beaujolais is capable of so much more and, like all good food) for a much-needed breath of fresh air. bargain supermarket buys
underdogs, is powered by mavericks. In 1981, Marcel Those labelled ‘beaujolais’ or ‘beaujolais-villages’ are the with meal pairings on
Lapierre, at the age of 30, eschewed the use of chemicals simplest wines, while bottles from the 10 crus (mostly Omagazine.com/
in favour of a more traditional approach using organic and highly regarded villages, including Moulin-à-Vent) tend to supermarket-wine-awards
biodynamic principles. You could rightly consider Marcel be deeper and more complex, and carry the characteristic
as the pioneer who triggered the natural wine movement mineral twang that comes from local granite soils.
(so on-trend now), and his spirit lives on. Beaujolais is a wonderful mix of the old and the new –
Beaujolais continues to attract dynamic winemakers a long tradition of making sustainable, planet-friendly
and growers with forward-thinking ideas, partly because wine coupled with exciting young winemakers. And, for
wines to try this month...

land is much cheaper than in Burgundy – but also me at least, it’s officially hipper than burgundy.
Lapierre Raisins Stéphane Aviron, Chiroubles 2019 Domaine Lucien Domaine des
Gaulois Quincié 2019 £10, coop.co.uk Lardy, Côte du Py Marrans Clos de
£69.75/5 litres, £8.95, From the village of
Chiroubles, the highest
Morgon 2018 Pavillion 2018
morewine.co.uk thewinesociety.com £16.99/£14.99 in a mixed £22.89,
Quintessential fresh, Brilliant value for this in the region and known
case, majestic.co.uk ahadleigh-wine.com
natural bojo from the biodynamic wine made for its delicacy and
A fine example of the Forget flimsy Fleuries from
region’s most famous from 50-year-old vines. freshness. Floral and
muscular wines from the supermarket shelves.
family, and bag-in-box for Plush raspberry fruit silky, it’s lovely alongside
Morgon, aged in oak This wine is very pure, yet
extra eco credentials. with whispers of wintry the roast chicken with
barrels to give extra deep and rich, and stands
Serve slightly chilled spice, a great match white bean and rosemary
depth. Try with the spiced up brilliantly to robust
with the cauliflower with the beef stew and mash on page 50.
celeriac rostis with harissa dishes such as the harissa
bhajis on page 22. dumplings on page 98. yogurt on page 19. pork chops on page 36.

discover drinks
The Measure
Treat loved ones this Valentine’s Day to dessert cocktails, pink tequila and small-batch teas
3 to try...
Words HANNAH GUINNESS
sipping tequilas
Tequila isn’t just for shots and cocktails – aged varieties
can be sipped like a fine whisky or rum
Valentine’s Day gifts

Want to spoil the drinks lover in your life?
Acclaimed London bar Lyaness has branched
out into bottled cocktails (from £13, lyaness.
myshopify.com). We loved the spritz-friendly
strawberry aperitivo, which features sweetly
fruity strawberry with tart Aperol and savoury
tequila, and an old fashioned that has delicate
apple flavours and gentle spice.
Seignette VS (£31.25/70cl, thewhiskyexchange.
com) is a modern cognac with an easy-going, light Código 1530 Storywood Tequila VIVIR
character, and dried fruit and vanilla notes – try in a Rosa Blanco Speyside 14 Añejo Tequila Añejo
sidecar with Cointreau and lemon juice or use in £65.50/70cl, £47.99/70cl, shop. £44/70cl, Waitrose
the brandy alexander recipe, below right. Harvey Nichols storywoodtequila.com Matured in bourbon
Galerie du Thé specialises in teas made by This blanco tequila gets its Aged for 14 months in casks for 18 months,
micro-producers across the world, beautifully pretty hue from aging in single-malt scotch whisky this has a lush vanilla
packaged in copper-hued caddies and pouches. cabernet sauvignon barrels. barrels, expect inviting and oak character,
It’s light and delicate, with notes of caramel and alongside agave
Try its floral, rounded Tung Ting oolong from the
subtle sweet red fruits. nuts, and rich oakiness. herbaceousness.
foothills of Dong Ding mountain in Taiwan.
home bar hacks

galerieduthe.com
3-ingredient cocktail
How to sweeten a cocktail Brandy alexander
Sweeteners in drinks are essential – they balance
bitterness and enhance texture and flavour. Many
Drink this creamy
cocktails call for simple syrup (gently heat equal dessert cocktail after a
parts sugar and water in a pan until dissolved) Valentine’s Day meal.
but there are other ingredients you can use.
Maple and golden syrup work with dark spirits such
Pour 2 tbsp each of brandy,
as rum and whisky, while marmalade is delicious in an crème de cacao and
old fashioned, or in a breakfast martini with triple sec, gin double cream into a
and lemon. Agave syrup is a must for tequila and mezcal cocktail shaker with ice.
drinks, but also adds flavour to a vodka sour, or a daiquiri.
Honey should be mixed with hot water first but is perfect Shake well, then strain into
in cocktails such as a bee’s knees. Finally, if you do make a coupe glass. Grated a little
a simple syrup, try muscovado or demerara sugar for nutmeg over it and serve.
whisky drinks such as mint juleps and sazeracs.

pro vs punter Critic Eileen Twum
and O reader Vicky
Home-X by Nico
Tuck test a make-at-
home four-course
dinner inspired by the
flavours of Burgundy
finished with a rich wine and mushroom sauce that

Our pro says feels like a hug in your mouth.
“Two great sides accompany the main. My current
“After an extremely simple online ordering process, favourite vegetable, jerusalem artichokes, come with
the Home-X ‘A Taste of Burgundy’ four-course meal garlic and a pistou (French version of pesto) sauce, and
comes in a big, elegant box in which everything you there’s also creamy, moreish pommes boulangère.
need is beautifully laid out. We open the bottle of “Dessert comes in two parts. First, a blackcurrant
2019 Beaujolais Villages Cuvée Six, from the southern charlotte russe – it’s like an inside-out Swiss roll, with the
Burgundy region, to let it breathe a little while we vanilla cream cutting through the cassis jelly playfully.
prepare the meal. “We were given a heads up before the arrival that the
“The meal preparation is relatively straightforward. second dessert part would be amended, as the expected
The instructions are printed in a beautiful booklet French Langres Petit cheese had fallen victim to the
– you’ll probably want to pop it on your 2022 vision import drama happening at the UK borders, but the
board afterwards – and my only complaint is that it’s incredibly rich-yet-smooth, 14-month-aged cheddar
a little hard to judge the ‘cook until warm’ instruction, replacement from Scotland provides a reminder that
Eileen Twum is a
especially when it comes to the potato side dish (I found there’s excellent produce in the UK, and teams like
restaurant critic and
start-up executive that 20-25 minutes was enough for that, though). Home-X by Nico will continue to help us experience
who’s part of Black “The food is everything you’d want on a cold winter them from the comfort of our own homes.
Book, a platform for evening: warm, rich and very elegant. The jambon “It’s a gorgeous way to spend an evening exploring
black and non-white persillé starter, a classic dish of the region, includes regional food, with a great bottle of wine to go with it.”
people working in
a persillade (parsley) sauce on the side, and pickled veg
hospitality and food Ease of ordering: 10/10
media. Follow her on that gently cut through the richness of the ham.
Instagram @eix.leen. “The main, boeuf bourguignon, is simply gorgeous.
Food: 8/10
The beef is encased like a haggis, a lovely nod to the Prep: 8/10
restaurant group’s Scottish origins, and the dish is Total: 26/30
62
discover restaurant kits
Following the successful local launch of Home by

Nico during the �rst lockdown, Scottish chef Nico
Simeone has launched Home-X by Nico nationwide
– an at-home meal kit based on the experience of the
renowned Six by Nico concept, which has locations in
Glasgow, Edinburgh, Belfast, Liverpool, Manchester and
London. Each month, the Home-X team creates a new
menu based on the culinary delights of di�erent regions
from around the world. The kits contain a four-course meal
re�ecting the chosen region, plus a carefully selected bottle
of wine, all for £60 including delivery. Find out more about
the current menu at home-x.com.
Our punter says hearty as anything and totally delicious. The sides are
heavy hitters that aren’t outshone by the meat, and
“Bleak times in winter call for comfort food, and the another green goop (for the artichokes, a different herb
‘A Taste of Burgundy’ menu promises heaps of it. I enjoy this time) adds a welcome flash of colour. The gravy
it with my support bubble in her east London kitchen. comes in restaurant, not home-cooking, portions, raising
“Ordering is easy and the ingredients arrive in good an eyebrow from bubble, but it’s definitely sufficient,
shape, bar the blackcurrant charlotte russe – its fancy and is dotted with lardons, mushrooms and shallots – all
crème diplomat headgear slid around a little en route. manner of good things. It’s a solid main, and just what
God knows how that happened – everything should winter calls for: a great, big, sexy hug of a dish.
have been as safe as a toddler in a European car seat, “On we go. The dessert is nice enough – creamy and
given the care Nico took over the (substantial) tangy after the rich, earthy main. We struggle to liberate
packaging. Better safe than sorry when it comes to it from its container, so it’s further compromised at our
dinner, though, and it is mostly recyclable. We are tired end, but we don’t mind. Rounding things off, the cheese
and therefore pleased that the meal comes together is tangy, the crackers robust and, well, you can’t go
Vicky Tuck is a
easily, with a glance at the instructions and some wrong with chutney.
government social
researcher who lives acceptable guesswork on timings. “Overall, the meal is tasty, good value, and they’ve read
in Hackney, London. “The ham hough terrine has some secret gherkins the room well with the menu. Importantly, in early 2021,
Pre-lockdown, she buried in it (winner) and the accompaniments of pickled it feels like an event, and one we’d gladly repeat.”
would eat out once or veg and a vibrant green goop are piquant and give a nice
twice a week, and her
contrast to the ham. While it’s all very pleasant, I would
favourite cuisine is Ease of ordering: 10/10
Vietnamese, although have saved room for the main, given the choice.
she’s also partial to “Somewhat more elegant than my mum’s noughties
Food: 7/10
a McDonald’s version (a gargantuan stew made with cheap cuts and Prep: 9/10
cheeseburger. designed to feed teenagers), the boeuf bourguignon is Total: 26/30

Britain�s restaurants
will rise again
Even now, there are chefs and optimistic owners
opening bold new venues. This is O�s celebration
of that energy and ingenuity
Words TONY NAYLOR
discover restaurants
Tiers come and go but the restaurant

scene’s determination to fight back against
Covid-19 is strong, with unbridled optimism,
opportunism and outstanding cooking.
Believe it, Britain: restaurants will rise again!
Purist poised
for action
Humble Chicken, London
A busy Soho reminds
Japanese chef, Angelo Sato,
of boozy Tokyo nights with
his brothers, searching
alleyways for great izakayas
(late-night Japanese food
bars). “Soho’s energy is
insane,” he enthuses. That is why Angelo is
focussed on opening Humble Chicken,
originally pegged for January, when life returns
to Soho and his restaurant can operate as a
lively counter-dining spot. Formerly head chef
at Restaurant Story, Angelo has serious cooking
pedigree but wants his food – “fun” Japanese-
inspired small plates; individual clay-pot rice
dishes; “beak-to-tail” yakitori skewers of liver,
heart, cartilage, gizzards – served in a relaxed
izakaya atmosphere. “Japan’s really socially strict.
The izakaya is where people can be themselves.
It’s a different world.” Tiers aside, Angelo is
convinced London will bounce back. “It’s one of
the world’s biggest cities. Open something new
and cool, people are going to come.”
Skewers from £2;
@humblechicken_uk
In such tiny details, Elliot hopes ELD will prove

Pizza against Covid cost-effective, waste-minimal and resilient.
Naturally, it was conceived with Covid in mind:
ELD Pizza, London “We designed the seating so it keeps people
“Chefs like to be busy,” distanced with minimal screens. Then, if we’re
reasons Elliot Cunningham locked down, there’s a cobbled driveway that
of his decision to open this houses a conservatory and our pizza oven,
Bethnal Green pizza spot in where people can rock up and order at the
2021. “There were a lot of window, which is cool.”
deflated people within the
industry. That’s dangerous. From £7; @eldpizza
ELD is a means to keep me and my staff
interested and creative.” Best known for his
live-fire restaurant, Lagom, ELD, meaning fire
in Swedish, is the first of Elliot’s “sustainable,
umbrella concepts”. ELD will make use of British
“if w ’re lo ked do ,
charcuterie and cold-pressed rapeseed oil on
its ’nduja or Hispi cabbage, anchovy and chilli
peo le can ro k up and
pizzas. Next morning, the team will use the
wood-fired oven’s residual heat – “It still sits
o der at the w ndo ”
about 300C” – to bake breakfast pastries.

“this year w l b a year

o change and, fo so e,
expansio ”
Future-focused for Rudie’s charcoal, drum-cooked menu

(see also, Borough Market, Boxpark Shoreditch).
Caribbean In these chaotic times, landlords are seeking
new, trusted operators. To entice brands in,
some landlords are beginning to offer longer
Rudie’s Jerk Shack,
rent-free periods, greater financial help with
London
fit-out costs and lower-risk turnover-linked
Rudie’s had a stop-start
rental agreements. “If we do well,” says Matin,
2020. Its new Brixton
“they do well.” Matin is realistic. It will take
restaurant could only open
months for London to return to normal. But
for a few days in December,
he is confident it will and Rudie’s will soon open
while its latest kitchen at
a new Canary Wharf kiosk: “July to September,
Fulham pub, The Prince,
out of first lockdown, we had record trade.
squeezed in just one night’s service before
People will return. Hopefully, we’ll be ahead
Tier 3 (then 4) hit. Yet such openings illustrate
of the game.”
the opportunities available. This year will be
a year of change and, for some, expansion. Borough Market, from £6.50;
Matin and Michelle Miah, whose Jamaican rudieslondon.com
roots underpin the couple’s love of jerk cooking,
have spent several years gathering a following

Pivot-ready wine bar
The Old Pharmacy,
Bruton, Somerset
“We realised in lockdown that
this team is incredibly flexible.
We find creative ways to
survive,” says chef Merlin
Labron-Johnson, who, in January,
was due to open The Old
Pharmacy grocery store, café and wine bar in tiny,
boho Bruton. “We want it to feel domestic rather
than like a retail space and, in the evening, it’ll
morph naturally into a wine bar: remove produce,
light candles, music on.” Equally seamlessly, if tiers
demand it, the space can flip to pure retail and
takeaway. Like Merlin’s neighbouring, farm-to-
table restaurant, Osip, the handsomely refurbed,
Grade II-listed space will showcase spanking
Somerset produce, including vegetables grown on
Osip’s land. At lunch, expect exceptional salads and
toasties – “Somerset is the heart of UK cheese-
making, especially cheddar” – and, after dark, when
it can open properly, bread, cheese, meat and
weekly specials including fresh pastas and small
plates such as roasted carrots with wild garlic
pesto, walnuts and shaved cheese. Add in an often
natural, organic wine list (from £4.50 a glass;
real grape geeks will find rarer, pricier vintages
dispensed by Coravin), and the Pharmacy sounds
like the perfect place to wait out Covid. “There
comes a time in life to take calculated risks,” says
Merlin. “If we can make this work, then, out
the other side, we’ll be in a good place.”
Plates £4-£12;
@oldpharmacybruton
“the handso ely refurb d,

grade i -listed space w l sho ase
spanking so erset pro uce”

COOKING
SOON...
Twelve hot new venues for ’21
1 The Pony North Street,

Bristol
After reinventing his Michelin-starred Pony
& Trap as this hip city bistro, chef Josh
Eggleton’s new pub, the Queen’s Arms, will
open in March. theponynorthstreet.co.uk
2 Fenn, Fulham
Hackney’s Nest team will head west to
open this restaurant. fennrestaurant.co.uk
3 Society, Manchester
Follow-up to Leeds’ Assembly
Underground street food market, due March.
societymanchester.com
4 Indian Alley, Camden

Benares spin-off, offering street food
and eat-in canteen dining. indianalley.co.uk
“kevin’s first solo venture will 5 The Bailiwick Freehouse,

Egham, Surrey
see him serving a high-end, Game-loving pub from husband-and-wife chefs,

Steven and Ami Ellis. thebailiwick.co.uk
ultra-seasonal tasting menu” 6 Kraft, Dalston

Brewery German Kraft, distillery Jim
and Tonic, and contemporary kebab tinkerers
ALL DETAILS AND OPENING DATES CORRECT AT TIME OF WRITING BUT SUBJECT TO CHANGE, PLEASE CHECK WITH VENUES.
Le Bab, will combine forces at Locke
apart-hotel. kraftdalston.com
Raring-to-go 7 House of Fu, Leeds

Ramen, karaoke rooms and listening bar
rural inn from Ox Club’s Ben Davy. @house_of_fu
Heft, High Newton, Cumbria

8 Mr Ji, Soho
Fried chicken spot with Taiwanese-
inspired dishes. mrji.co.uk
9 Döner Summer, York

“The locals are giving us grief, saying, when
are you opening, we miss the pub, and
neighbouring restaurants are busy,” says Kevin Vegan doner crew whose York outpost
Tickle, surveying the prospects for Heft, the will unveil its Garden of Vegan, with
rural inn with rooms he will open by early individually heated tables. donersummer.com
March. A local lad, best known for his
10 Heritage, Dulwich
PHOTOGRAPHS: ED SCHOFIELD, JENNY JONES PHOTOGRAPY
Michelin-starred stint at Grasmere’s Forest Up-scale Indian restaurant. Expect
Side, Kevin’s first solo venture will see him modern dishes such as a truffled chicken
serving a high-end, ultra-seasonal tasting kebab. heritagedulwich.co.uk
11
menu in the restaurant (£90 a head) and, in what you can to survive.” But he is in a strong Unalome, Glasgow
the pub, banging beers alongside plates of, position. He can add staff as restrictions ease Michelin-hailed Graeme Cheevers
say, venison pastrami with stout mustard: and, hopefully, this spring, will be able to is aiming for the stars. @UnalomebyGC
12
“I’m a big believer in utilising whole animals.
If we’ve got sirloin on in the restaurant, we’ll
welcome diners into Heft’s fell-side gardens. Le Bar des Prés, Mayfair
Personally, he cannot wait: “I want to get back Star French chef, Cyril Lignac,
use the shin and shoulder in the pub, in a in, doing what I love.”
clever way.” Kevin is cautious – further hopes to open an outpost of his Japanese-
lockdown would mean reviving his Heft at Plates £4-£9; French restaurant in March. cyrillignac.com
Home meals or selling beer online: “You do hefthighnewton.co.uk

O Feb
25
N r
SA ua
coming next month...
LE ry
Time is
precious
So relax with our low and slow
lamb hot pot, braised ox cheeks
and apple steamed sponge
Healthy, clever
midweek meals
Veggie stars from
Anna Jones
O’s Easter
supermarket
awards
WEEKEND Buy the best chocolate eggs
MENU and hot cross buns
Ricotta
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH
cheesecake Learn to make

and blood
...and much, much more

orange The ultimate chicken kiev

10 things I love about
b o na, italy
Chefs share the unique ingredients, traditions and dishes of
their favourite cities. This month, we discover Italy’s historic
food city with Jacob Kenedy of Bocca di Lupo, Gelupo and
Plaquemine Lock in London
Bologna is where I learned to make gelato. I studied under

Gianni Figliomeni at Gelatauro – the �nest gelateria in the city.
Bologna has three names: La Rossa (the red, in architecture and
politics), La Dotta (the learned) and La Grassa (the fat). The latter
refers more to the abundance of food in a city wealthy since the
Middle Ages, than to calories. It is the foodie city.
1 Mortadella
The world outside of Emilia-Romagna (the region of
which Bologna is capital) seems divided between those who
love mortadella (the giant, emulsified, decadently fatty sausage),
those who detest it, and those who can’t eat it for religious
reasons. In Bologna, the debate is restricted to which the finest
mortadella is. Bolognese cuisine is brutally rich and delicious –
rich eggy pastas, creamy and buttery sauces, myriad cheeses,
breads fried in lard. Emilian products are Italian food’s greatest
successes – parma ham, parmesan and balsamic vinegar
have conquered the world and rigorously upheld their standards,
whereas mortadella has wheedled its way into national cuisines –
in America, every deli counter has ‘bologna’ or ‘baloney’, and in
South Africa, ‘polony’. The original is fine-textured, silky, delicate
and nutmeg-scented, studded with fat from the jowl, and emerald
pistachios. Sliced thin into sandwiches, with crescentine or in
piadine – or cut into generous cubes to snack on, it is a revelation.
Try it at Salumeria Simoni in the old market, Mercato di Mezzo.
2 Fizzy wine (pignoletto and lambrusco)

The two sparkling wines of the region are pignoletto
(a delicate, quaffable white – think even-easier-drinking prosecco),
and lambrusco (joyous, aromatic, fruity, cheeky sparkling red
made from lambrusco grapes). Both are drunk at the start of
– or throughout – a meal (not after other wines), and both are
particularly good with salumi: you can make a very, very long
evening out of cured meats and fizz. There are at least six varieties
and subregional styles of lambrusco – look out particularly
for lambrusco grasparossa (rich, dark, plush, fruity) and
lambrusco di sorbara (pale, dryer, floral, spritely – akin to

discover global kitchen
from left, clockwise

Bologna is known as La Rossa
because of the ruddy hue
of its architecture; a bowl of
ragu bolognese; silky folds of
pistachio-studded mortadella;
tubs of creamy gelato; lambrusco
is a sparkling red wine native to
Emilia-Romagna
drinking a darker rosé). If served properly, you will not drink mixture of younger beef and pork, a lot of dairy, white wine and
lambrusco from glasses but fojete – small ceramic bowls – and much less tomato. This last results in a pinker sauce, as opposed to
somehow lambrusco tastes (even) better in them. the enveloping red of bol. While it is possible other pastas might
sometimes be offered with ragu, if you’re a purist it should be
3 Piadine
Piadine are Italian flatbreads, from Emilia-Romagna and
eaten only with tagliatelle or in lasagne.
especially the Romagnolo coastline. The piadina is a close cousin

of the flour tortilla and is filled with delights such as prosciutto
or mortadella, rocket, and stracchino or squacquerone cheese.
6 Pasta in broth
Both the coarsest and the finest of Emilian pastas come
swimming in a limpid pool of comforting broth – chicken soup
It is the thing to eat before heading out on the razzle, the thing to for the Italian soul. Passatelli are very coarse pasta made from
grab when the club closes its doors, and the hangover breakfast breadcrumbs, egg and parmesan, perhaps 4-5mm wide, forced
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXANDER SPATARI, WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
that will see you through till you have another one at lunch. through a press directly into boiling broth or water – a delicious
reminder that pasta is, in fact, a species of dumpling. Tortellini
4 Aperitivo
Bologna’s university is the oldest in the world, a place of
learning since 1088. The energy of its students underpins what
are the height of the art of fine pasta: egg dough rolled by hand
until almost transparent, cut into tiny squares, filled with morsels
of pork, prosciutto, mortadella, parmesan and nutmeg. It is okay
could otherwise be a town of the old – in what is certainly a very to have parmesan on pasta in broth – and also to have pasta in
old place (one of the largest surviving medieval cities). Students broth before, instead of or after another course of pasta. The
worldwide are united, above all, by their poverty, sense of fun and general aim in Emilia-Romagna might be to have two courses
appetite for drink. The aperitivo – giant fishbowl glasses of lurid of pasta at each meal, as it is such a focus of the cuisine.
spritz, accompanied by little plates of starchy nibbles or groaning
banquet tables (depending on your budget) – is perfect student
fodder. Aperitivo time (evening, before dinner), is not to be missed. 7 Golden tagliatelle and lasagne verdi
The established philosophy, in Bologna at least, is that ragu
must be served on egg pasta, and that egg pasta should be rolled
5 Ragu bolognese
Bologna is the capital of egg pasta – and ragu bolognese,
the source of eponymous bol (from the English spag bol). Ragu
by hand. In Bologna’s chamber of commerce, on Piazza della
Mercanzia, you will find a solid gold tagliatelle, the unit against
which all other tagliatelle can be judged. The key dimension is a
bolognese is the forefather of bol – and they do share a basic width of 7mm. Essential to serving pasta, across Italy, is that it is
identity of being a braised tomatoey meat sauce intended for pasta with sauce so that you can still taste the pasta. This is
pasta. But there are differences – the original is made with a particularly important with tagliatelle al ragu – it takes a small

discover global kitchen
amount of unctuous, milk-enriched bolognese to anoint the

delicate ribbons of hand-rolled and hand-cut tagliatelle. While
noodles are golden, in Bologna the best lasagnes are green with
9 Crescentine and squacquerone
Across the region perhaps the most delicious thing is a
puffed-up flatbread fried in lard, cut in different forms and known
spinach – lasagne verdi. by different names according to the town you’re in. But in Bologna
it is diamond-shaped crescentine. These should be freshly fried
8 Torta di riso and zuppa inglese

Two of the most emblematic local desserts are, in one
way or another, best of British. Torta di riso is also called
and served hot, with a soft cheese and cured meat. For the cheese,
you might get stracchino (a spoonable lactic delection) or
squacquerone (a rarer, softer, tangier delicacy, known only
torta degli addobbi (cake of the decorations) – there’s nothing around Bologna). The salumi could be culatello di zibello
British about it, save that it is basically our rice pudding. In (cured hind leg), parma ham or bolognese mortadella. Eat the
Bologna, they perfume it with cinnamon, lemon and clove, bread with a dab of the cheese and slice of the cured meat either
stud it with candied citron and amaretti, bake it till it forms on it or tucked into the pocket.
a golden crust, then let it cool, soak it in almond liqueur and
serve it in little diamonds. Zuppa inglese – ‘English soup’ –
is a layered confection of sponge cake soaked in alchermes
(a lurid cochineal-red spiced liqueur), pastry cream, chocolate
10GelatoBologna has become the very capital of gelato.
Carpigiani is the most important manufacturer of gelato-making
cream and whipped cream. It’s so ubiquitous in homes that equipment and is headquartered in Bologna. So entrenched are
many restaurants no longer make it. Gelaterie, worldwide, each in the other (Carpigiani, gelato and Bologna), that the
will often offer an ice cream made, and named, after company built the world’s only gelato museum and the world’s
zuppa inglese. only gelato university just outside, in Anzola dell’Emilia.
Crescentine fritti 1 To make the crescentine, warm 2 tbsp of the lard in the milk until
it just melts. Allow it to cool until tepid, then dissolve the yeast in
the milk. Mix the flour with 1 tsp of salt, then add the milk and
45 MINUTES + RISING | SERVES 4 | EASY
knead to a supple dough.
2 Leave the dough to rise, covered, until doubled in size. Roll
lard 500g
it out on a floured worksurface to 6mm thick and cut into 8cm
milk 150ml
x 11cm diamonds. You need four, but the recipe is enough for
fast-action dried yeast 1 tsp
five. Allow these to prove a second time for an hour at room
‘00’ or plain flour 250g
temperature or for between six to 24 hours in the fridge, until
squacquerone, stracchino, stracciatella, burrata, curd cheese
risen to double their height.
or ricotta 250g
3 When you are ready to eat, fry the crescentine – they must be
thinly sliced prosciutto, culatello, coppa or mortadella 200g
served piping hot and crisp from the pan. Heat the remaining lard
in a wide, deep pan over a medium heat to 170C or until a cube of
bread browns in 40 seconds, at a depth of about 21/2cm. Before
you fry the crescentine, pull each lengthways and crossways to
increase by about a third in length – this makes them the right size
but also stretches out the bubbles making them puff up more
consistently. Lower them carefully, flat, into the hot fat. Do not
crowd the pan – you will probably need to cook them one at a
time. Fry the crescentine for 2 minutes on each side, until golden
and puffed.
4 Arrange the crescentines either on individual plates or together
on a platter or board to share from. This is a homely dish, and
does not stand on ceremony, other than to pop the cork of a
carefully selected and well-chilled sparkling lambrusco.

Recipe extracted from Bocca: Cookbook by

Omagazine.com Jacob Kenedy (£40, Bloomsbury). Photograph:
• Inspired to cook Italian food? Find recipes for pasta, pizza, Howard Sooley. This recipe was supplied by
antipasti and more at Omagazine.com/cuisines/italian the publisher and not retested by us.

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cook like a local
Tasmania
From fresh-off-the-boat seafood
to award-wining wine and fragrant
indigenous honey, try a taste of this
unique Australian island at home
Words and recipes ANALIESE GREGORY
Photographs ADAM GIBSON
discover cook like a local
A tiny but wild island-o�-an-island at the end of the Pickled mussels and octopus
world. The last stop between Australia and Antarctica,
Tasmania is a pristine wilderness abounding in natural with XO aïoli
beauty and ingredients with a purity of �avour. From the 25 MINUTES + PICKLING | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY | GF
abalone (large sea snails) that pepper the whole coastline, mussels 20, cleaned
to oysters, mussels, sea urchins, fresh seaweed and rock white wine vinegar 100ml
lobsters, the seafood options are ingrained in the eating caster sugar 50g
octopus 150g, cleaned
culture of the island. Wild local game and bush food plants, chives º a bunch, finely chopped
part of the indigenous diet, are in abundance, too. dill º a bunch, finely chopped
turnips 2 small, thinly sliced
Another taste of Tasmania is leatherwood honey. Unique olive oil 2 tbsp
to the island, it comes from a rainforest plant that �owers XO AÏOLI
egg yolks 2
for just six to eight weeks of the year. The �avour has been white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
described as a taste of the Australian bush after it rains: lemon juice 1 tbsp
dijon mustard 1 tbsp
buttery, creamy and distinctive. garlic 1 clove, crushed
This is also a place of farmers’ markets, oyster shacks, cult grapeseed oil 130ml
�sh ’n’ chip shops, food festivals, distilleries and vineyards. olive oil 130ml
XO sauce 40g
Tasmanian wine is particularly hot right now – House of
Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged 2004 was named best 1 Wash the mussels, then steam until just opened. Tip into a
bowl to collect the juices. Heat 150ml of water in a pan with the
sparkling wine in the world in Decanter’s Wine of the Year vinegar and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Leave to cool
2020 tasting. The island is cooled by the Southern Ocean, a little until just warm, then pour over the mussels and chill.
(Eat the mussels on the day of pickling, if you can. They do keep,
making ideal growing conditions for classic sparkling wine but the pickle will continue to firm the mussels up over time.)
grapes such as pinot noir and chardonnay. Production is 2 Fry or chargrill the octopus over a medium heat for 3 minutes
small but there are some great bottles to try (see page 76). or until just cooked, then slice thinly. In a bowl, combine the
octopus, mussels, herbs, turnips and olive oil, then mix.
3 To make the aïoli, put the egg yolks, vinegar, lemon juice,
mustard and garlic in a blender. Blend until smooth then, with the
blender running on low, pour in the two oils in very thin streams,
the flav r o leatherw allowing the aïoli to emulsify. Mix in the XO sauce and check
for seasoning. Spoon some aïoli into the base of a large bowl.
ho ey has b n describ d as Top with the pickled seafood and herbs.
a taste o the australian PER SERVING 648 kcals | fat 60.5G

b sh after it rains fibre 1.9G | protein 17.1G | salt 1.2G

discover cook like a local
A taste of Tasmania
House of Arras
Brut Elite
£34.99,
majestic.co.uk
From the same
producer as
the Decanter
winner, but
much more
affordable.
Jansz
Premium
Cuvée NV
£17.99,
Waitrose
Honey madeleines Salt-baked beetroot with Well balanced

with delicate
I love the flavour that these airy madeleines macadamia and mulberry fruit flavours
and a creamy
absorb from intense honey – both manuka and finish.
leatherwood would work well. You will need a 1 HOUR + COOLING | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
EASY | V GF
madeleine mould. Serve with shop-bought apricot Devil’s Corner
jam if you can’t find fresh apricots. Pinot Noir
golden beetroots 3 medium, trimmed £15.49,
purple beetroots 3 medium, trimmed
45 MINUTES + COOLING | MAKES 24 | EASY rannochscott.
fine salt 700g co.uk
egg whites 75g (about 3) Ripe plum and
butter 170g, plus extra for the moulds
raw macadamia nuts 150g cherry flavours
eggs 3
lemon Ω, juiced with a hint of
manuka, leatherwood or other honey 185g
garlic 1 clove spice.
plain flour 160g
olive oil 100ml
baking powder º tsp
mulberries or blackberries 8, halved
soured cream to serve
TO SERVE
APRICOT JAM
sherry vinegar 40ml Leatherwood
apricots 250g, stoned and roughly diced
tarragon leaves 20 (optional) honey, £4.95,
manuka, leatherwood or other honey 50g
bottarga (salted, cured mullet roe) optional harveynichols.
1 Melt the butter in a small pan and let it cool to room com
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180/gas 6. Arrange the beets A golden-yellow
temperature.
on a tray lined with baking paper. Mix the salt and egg honey, smooth and buttery
2 In a stand mixer, whisk the eggs and honey for
whites until completely combined. Mould the mixture in texture with an intense
10 minutes until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl,
around each beetroot then put in the oven and bake for perfume and a clean, lightly
sift together the dry ingredients with 1/4 tsp of salt,
50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middles spiced flavour.
then add them to the egg mixture and fold by hand.
meets no resistance. Cool a little.
Once incorporated, gently fold in the cooled melted
2 In a blender, combine the macadamias, 160ml of water
butter. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.
and the lemon juice, then grate in the garlic. Blend on
3 To make the jam, combine the apricot flesh with
high for 5 minutes until as smooth as possible. With the
2Ω tbsp of water and the honey in a pan, then cook
blender running, pour in 40ml of the olive oil and let it
over a medium heat for 10 minutes or until a jammy
emulsify. Season with salt.
consistency is reached.
3 Break away the salt layers and peel the beetroots, Recipes
4 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Butter a extracted
discarding the peels, stalks and salt. Cut the yellow beets
madeleine mould with a pastry brush. I use a 12-cake
into Ωcm slices and halve or quarter the purple beets. from
non-stick metal one – the old copper moulds are
4 Spoon the sauce onto a plate. Fan out the yellow How Wild
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS: KATE HAWKINGS
amazing but I would grease and flour them first.

beetroots, then place the purple beets on top. Things Are:
Fill each indentation half-full and bake for 10 minutes.
5 Top with the berries and spoon over the sherry vinegar, Cooking,
They should be set and golden, with minimal colour
on top and light brown underneath. Serve immediately
remaining oil and tarragon leaves, if using, then grate Fishing and Hunting at
with soured cream and the jam.
over some bottarga, if you like. the Bottom of the World
by Analiese Gregory
PER SERVING 540 kcals | fat 53.5G (£22, Hardie Grant). These
PER MADELEINE 115 kcals | fat 6.5G
saturates 8.1G | carbs 7.6G | sugars 6.8G recipes were supplied by
fibre 5.4G | protein 4.5G | salt 2.6G the publisher and not
retested by us.

O
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days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original
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unwind
Take some time out to rethink your kitchen
with vintage-style inspiration from Rosie Birkett,
use your plan-free Sunday to recreate Mark
Hix’s Dorset pub menu, and immerse yourself
in a weekend project making light-as-air soufflé

kitchens to covet
urb n v ntage
Rosie Birkett’s characterful north London
kitchen cleverly combines bespoke �ttings
with quirky upcycled accessories
PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID COTSWORTH

unwind kitchen style
“my hap iest times in my kitchen are rauco s din er parties (in the days w en w
co ld hav tho e) aro nd the lo g erco tab e w en the w ne do sn’t sto flo ng”
“As a cookbook author, food writer and recipe “For five years we lived with a kitchen which was and under the units – I love how the tiles are
developer, I need a kitchen that can double up not to my taste at all. Eventually we saved up slightly different shapes and thicknesses.
as a workspace and studio. Ours does just that. enough to redesign it but were reluctant to rip it “Carrara marble worktops were non-negotiable.
“I live here with my husband Jamie and our out as it was perfectly serviceable. I considered I love the feel and heft of marble, and its coolness
whippet, Cyril. Our flat is in north-east London, replacing the units but Kiri’s Spray Shop, a brilliant means it’s so good for prepping pastry.
right beside Walthamstow Marshes and the River man in Wood Green, persuaded me to spray the “With the help of Ben Wheeler
Lea, as well as being close to east London’s exisiting ones instead. I wanted a very specific (@deringrestoration), we converted the small
amazing food and independent retail scene. forest green with a teal edge, that looks different in utility room into my dream pantry. It uses the full
“We moved from a tiny basement flat and were different lights, so I mixed the exact shade myself ceiling height for bespoke, limed oak shelves, and
blown away by the soaring ceilings and natural – Kiri then colour-matched it. The unit handles are has sturdy handmade shaker units.
light from the glass atrium. The downstairs antique brass and come from Yester Home. “Carefully chosen light fittings have the power
revolves around the kitchen. I love to cook for “Because the space is so white and modern, to finish a space. I found a modernist Sputnik-
family and friends but I definitely get a fear of I wanted to introduce more rustic textures and esque design with multiple lamps for the
missing out if I’m shut away in a separate room colour through tiling. There are Moroccan zellige kitchen. Lights both complement the space and
– thankfully that isn’t an issue with this space. tiles in pearly pink for a splashback behind the sink bring character.”

“fo us o the things yo lo and b ild yo r kitchen
aro nd that. T ink ab t w at yo already hav that
can b upcycled – can yo spray paint yo r units o
update existing furniture?”
this page from top left

“I replaced the sink with a gorgeous
double ceramic farmhouse sink and put
in some extravagant aged-brass Ionian
taps, along with a copper rail to hang my
pots and pans.
“I chose ‘Sulking Room Pink’ for the
pantry, and have one beautiful curbed
marble shelf. I made a white and red
ticker stripe curtain to divide the space.”
opposite page
“Other finishing touches include a
pink-edged, scalloped jute rug from
Tate & Darby, and an upcycled antique
washstand found on Etsy, which has the
most beautiful black and white marble
top. We had the legs extended by Ben
Wheeler to make it the right height for
me to prep on, and painted it pink.”

Essential kitchen kit?

My Kin knives, Sytch Farm ceramics, Le Creuset casserole and
Lodge cast-iron skillet. And my Thermomix and KitchenAid.
What’s always in your fridge?
Butter, onions, my sourdough starter, cheese and ginger.
Is there a family dish you cook again and again?
A really good roast chicken, which turns into chicken stock, which
morphs into chicken noodle soup, risotto, and all sorts of other
dishes. It all starts with one really good bird.
Give us a recipe, in a sentence, that you eat on your own
Very finely chop half a red onion and a green or red chilli, and mix
with a tin of good-quality tuna, salt, pepper and a tiny squeeze of
lemon and some mayonnaise, then spread on sourdough toast,
shower with grated cheese and grill until melted. A fancy tuna
melt! It’s a go-to working lunch.
Favourite O recipe?
Lulu Grimes’ carrot cake, and Adam Bush’s perfect cheeseburger.
Favourite cookbook?
Too many to name but I love Gabrielle Hamilton’s Prune –
it’s more like a diary of a restaurant kitchen full of wonderful
ideas and opinionated details of why things have to be done a
certain way. I love her food, it’s unfussy, informal and pleasure/
flavour led.
Favourite restaurant?
Brawn in east London.
Reasons to be cheerful in 2021?
The hope of being able to host people again for lunch and dinner.
You can follow Rosie on Instagram @rosiefood

4
6 9
get the look

8
Inspired by Rosie’s kitchen?

Here’s where you can find similar items 11
1 Kitchen Aid mixer, 4.8-litre, Ice Blue, £499, kitchenaid.co.uk
2 Pink transparent tiles, from £98/m2, zellige-tiles.com
3 Le Creuset round casserole in shell pink, from £195, lecreuset.co.uk
4 Vintage Ercol dining chair, prices vary, vinterior.co
5 Classic aged brass cupboard handles, £12.50 each, yesterhome.com
6 Leisure Range cooker in black, Cuisinemaster Pro PR100F530,
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leisurely
extrav gance
A long Sunday with no plans is the perfect
opportunity to hole up in your kitchen and
recreate Mark Hix’s comforting dishes from
his Dorset village pub, The Fox Inn
Recipes MARK HIX Photographs MATT AUSTIN

unwind weekend menu
Black forest pavlova

One of my favourite desserts, you can change the topping
from summer through to winter with seasonal or preserved
fruits, and change the ice cream accordingly. If you don’t
want to go to the trouble of making the actual meringue,
you can just buy good-quality meringues from a shop and
join them together, and your partner or guests won’t guess.
You can also make a chocolate sauce to pour over by
melting equal quantities of dark chocolate and double
cream over a bain-marie.
2 HOURS 15 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF
MERINGUE
egg whites 4
caster sugar 140g
cornflour Ω tsp
white wine vinegar Ω tsp
TO SERVE
black or morello cherries 400g tin
cherry liqueur 2-3 tbsp
cornflour 1 tbsp
crème fraîche 6-8 tbsp
dark chocolate ice cream 6-8 scoops
dark chocolate shavings a handful (optional)
1 To make the meringue, heat the oven to 120C/fan 100C/gas 1.

Clean a mixing bowl and whisk in just-boiled water, then dry with
kitchen paper to remove any traces of grease, as this will affect
the stiffness of the egg whites once whisked. Use electric
beaters to whisk the egg whites until you get firm peaks. Add the
sugar, a spoonful at a time, and continue whisking until the egg
whites are really stiff and shiny. Add the cornflour and vinegar,
and whisk again for 2-3 minutes or until well mixed and glossy.
yo can change the to ing
2 Line a large, clean baking tray with silicone or baking paper, fro sum er thro gh to w nter
and use a large metal spoon to spoon the mixture into four
individual slipper shapes.
w th seaso al o preserv d fruits
3 Cook in the oven for 1 hour 30 minutes-2 hours or until the
meringue is crisp on the outside and soft in the very middle, but
don’t let the outside colour – you want it white (you may need
to cook it a little longer depending on your oven). Remove and
leave to cool.
4 Meanwhile, open the tin of cherries and drain the juice into
a pan. Add 100ml of water and the cherry liqueur. Bring to the
boil, combine the cornflour with a little cold water, then stir into
the sauce and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the cherries, remove
from the heat and leave to cool.
5 To serve, alternate the crème fraîche and ice cream on top of
the meringue, making indentations to avoid the ice cream sliding
off, then spoon over the cherries and sauce, and scatter over
the chocolate shavings.

fibre 0.5G | protein 8G | salt 0.3G

Royal crumpet 3 Put the egg yolks into a small heatproof bowl with half of the
vinegar reduction and whisk over a pan of gently simmering
water until the mixture begins to thicken and become frothy.
Crumpets are a great all-round versatile ingredient in the 4 Slowly trickle in the butter, whisking continuously – an
kitchen and you would be hard pushed to make them as electric hand whisk will help. If the butter is added too quickly
consistently as the shop-bought ones. This is a variation the sauce will separate.
on the classic eggs benedict and a perfect breakfast or 5 When you have added two-thirds of the butter, taste the
brunch dish. sauce and add a little more or all of the reduction. Then add
the remaining butter, little by little, as before. The sauce should
45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | A LITTLE EFFORT not be too vinegary but the vinegar should just cut the oiliness
of the butter. Add a splash of water if it’s a little thick. Season,
crumpets 4 cover and leave in a warm, not hot, place until needed. The
duck eggs 4 sauce can be reheated over a bowl of hot but not simmering
smoked salmon 120g water and lightly whisked again, but this may not be necessary.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 6 Toast the crumpets, then poach the eggs. Lay the smoked
white wine vinegar 75ml salmon on the crumpets, then the poached eggs on top, and
shallot 1 long, roughly chopped spoon over the sauce and serve immediately.
tarragon a sprig
bay leaf Ω a small PER SERVING 633 kcals | fat 52.1G
peppercorns 6 saturates 27.1G | carbs 17.9G
unsalted butter 200g sugars 1.8G | fibre 1.3G
egg yolks 2 protein 22.4G
salt 2.8G
1 First, make the hollandaise. Put the vinegar, shallot, herbs,
peppercorns and 40ml of water in a pan and reduce the liquid
to about a dessertspoonful. Strain it and put aside.
2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a separate small pan and
simmer gently for 5 minutes. Remove it from heat, leave
to cool a little, then pour off the pure butter where it has
separated from the whey, which will be left in the bottom of the
pan. Discard the whey. This helps to keep the sauce thick.

unwind weekend menu
Game dumplings with

bashed neeps
As a child I’d buy faggots in the chippy after swimming.
I’ve stayed loyal to that spiced livery flavour ever since.
Faggots are a good cheap wintry dish. Generally they’re
eaten with peas, frozen or mushy, though I prefer mashed
potato or root vegetables such as neeps or coarsely mashed
parsnips. You could also make a minted pea purée. I suggest
making these with lamb or pork caul fat, which a butcher
can order for you. It keeps all the flavours in during cooking
and isn’t any different from sausage skin . I used the mincing
attachment for my stand mixer for this, but you could use
the chopping blade of a food processor or just buy ready-
made mince.
1 HOUR 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | A LITTLE EFFORT
onions 2 small, finely chopped

thyme leaves picked to make 1 tbsp
juniper berries 3, crushed
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
minced pork belly 200g
minced pork or game liver 250g
minced game meat (such as pheasant, venison or hare) 350g
fresh white breadcrumbs 100g
ground mace or nutmeg Ω tsp
red wine 100ml
caul fat 100-120g lamb or pig, soaked for 1 hour in cold water
SAUCE
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
onion 1 small, finely chopped
butter a generous knob
plain flour 1 tbsp
tomato purée 1 tsp
as a child I’d b y fa go
dijon mustard 1 tsp in the chip y after sw m ing.
red wine 100ml
beef stock 250ml I’v stayed lo al to that spiced
1 Gently cook the onions, garlic, thyme and juniper in the oil in liv ry flav r ev r since
a frying pan for 4-5 minutes or until soft, add the pork belly and
continue cooking for 3-4 minutes, stirring well. Remove from the
heat, tip into a large bowl and cool.
2 Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Mix the liver, game meat
and breadcrumbs into the pork belly, season well with salt, pepper
and mace, and stir in the red wine. Mould the mixture into 200g
balls and wrap each in a double layer of caul fat. Roast the faggots
in a deep baking tray for 20 minutes or until nicely coloured, then
drain off the fat.
3 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat the oil in a thick-based pan
and gently cook the onion for 8-10 minutes with a lid on until Located in Corscombe, a pretty hamlet nestled
lightly coloured – add a splash of water if they are catching on in a Dorset chalk hillside, the 17th-century
the bottom of the pan. Add the butter, flour and tomato purée,
Fox Inn is the first pub for celebrated chef,
and stir well over a low heat for 1 minute. Add the mustard, stir
restaurateur and Dorset native Mark Hix.
well, then gradually add the red wine, stirring again to prevent
lumps forming, and then gradually add the beef stock. Season, In contrast to the fish and seafood focus at
bring to the boil and simmer gently for 20 minutes. his Oyster & Fish House down on the coast in
4 Turn down the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Put the faggots Lyme Regis, Mark champions local meat and game at the Fox
into an ovenproof dish with the sauce, cover and continue Inn, with hearty seasonal dishes such as Forde Abbey pheasant
cooking for 40 minutes. Serve with boiled and crushed swede. club sandwich, Downhouse Farm mutton curry and Bellair Haye
bangers with colcannon on the menu. Visit the website for up to
PER SERVING 651 kcals | fat 35.8G | saturates 13.3G | carbs 23.5G date opening hours (thefoxinncorscombe.co.uk).
sugars 3.9G | fibre 2.5G | protein 48.1G | salt 0.9G

kitchen therapy
A long, lazy weekend afternoon is the perfect
opportunity to spend some time in your kitchen
perfecting the art of a light-as-air savoury soufflé
Recipe ANNA GLOVER Photograph MIKE ENGLISH
Cheese soufflé
You will need four 200ml ovenproof ceramic ramekins 4 Stir in the cayenne, pepper or nutmeg, and both the cheeses.
for this recipe. Stir briefly to melt the cheeses, season generously with salt, then
remove from the heat. Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in the
30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY egg yolks.
5 Put the egg whites in a clean metal or glass bowl. Add the
unsalted butter 30g, plus extra for the ramekins vinegar and whisk with an electric whisk or in a stand mixer until
parmesan 25g, finely grated, plus 2 tbsp stiff peaks form.
plain flour 30g 6 Add a dollop of the egg whites into the white sauce and stir
whole milk 300ml to combine. This will loosen the sauce and make it easier to
cayenne pepper, white pepper or grated nutmeg a pinch incorporate the rest of the egg whites without losing too much air.
gruyère 50g, finely grated 7 Add the remaining egg whites and, using the side of a large
eggs 4 large, separated spoon or spatula, carefully fold into the bowl, until just
white wine vinegar 1/4 tsp incorporated into a light yellow foam. Divide between the
ramekins, filling them no more than three-quarters full.
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 with a baking tray inside. 8 Using the tip of a cutlery knife, swipe around the insides of the
2 Generously butter the ramekins. Divide 2 tbsp of finely grated ramekins. Transfer to the oven on the heated baking tray. Cook
parmesan between the ramekins and shake them to get the for 10-12 minutes or until they are well risen, golden topped and
cheese to stick to the butter. Tip out any excess. have a slight wobble when picked up. Serve immediately.
3 Melt the butter in a heavy-based medium pan over a low heat,
then sprinkle in the flour. Mix well to form a thick paste. Cook for PER SERVING 324 kcals | fat 23.1G
1 minute until the paste starts to smell nutty, then add the milk, saturates 12.6G | carbs 9.2G | sugars 3.6G
a splash at a time, stirring continuously, to make a smooth, very fibre 0.4G | protein 19.6G | salt 0.8G
thick white sauce.
STYLING: AMY KINNEAR. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
co ’s no s
The vinegar (or any acid) helps to prevent over-whisking the egg Omagazine.com
whites, turning them clumpy or dry. It can still happen though, • Once you’ve mastered this classic technique, try making our
so stop when you’re happy with the lift on the peaks. Folding in easy stilton soufflés or crowd-pleasing twice-baked goat’s
the egg whites requires a cutting, rolling motion. Never stir once
cheese soufflés.
the slackening spoonful has been added. The air trapped in the
• Or try an irresistible sweet recipe: chocolate soufflé with hot
mixture will expand when it gets hot and increase the volume of
the batter to create the soufflé's classic rise. chocolate sauce or pistachio and white chocolate soufflé.

unwind relax and learn
the ro x
A panade – or very thick roux – is enriched with cheese and ‘to hat ng’
eggs to form the flavour profile of the soufflé. In sweet Running a knife or finger around the edge of the
soufflés it is usually crème pâtissière based. ramekin before cooking ensures the surface of the
soufflé doesn’t stick to the ramekin, encouraging
it to rise evenly, and as much as possible.
seaso ing
Strong cheese and plenty of salt in the panade add loads of
flavour. It must be well seasoned, as egg whites ‘dilute’ it.
the dishes
Try to use heatproof porcelain dishes or glass
ramekins, and avoid any metal ones. Don’t overfill
them – you want that sky-high rise, but adding too
much can mean the soufflés spill over when cooking.
the o n
Don’t open the oven door before the timer has
gone off. You need the consistent heat in the
oven to ensure they don’t sink back down.
b eadcrumb and b t ring

Dried white breadcrumbs or flour are often used to
to serv
Serve immediately. There’s no secret to
create a golden crust on the outside of the soufflé. prevent the soufflés sinking back down
We’ve used parmesan here – it does the same thing other than haste. There’s only one way
but adds an extra cheesy element. to eat a soufflé, and that’s piping hot,
still gloriously risen.

unwind relax and listen
Emily and Amy’s
favourite Burmese
ingredients
Dried
shrimp
This is
one of the
primary
flavours in Burmese food –
the saltiness that comes
from using dried shrimps.
These are shrimps that have
been dried and salted for
preservation. They can be
bu ma
used whole but are also
pounded into a powder to
be used in salads, soups
and dips. You can buy from
most Asian supermarkets
on the O podcast
and online.
Chana dal
Chana
dal are the
insides of
chickpeas
Tune in and learn all about

when the kernel has been
It’s quite a unique flavour, slightly bitter but with lots removed, and then split.
Burmese cuisine from Emily of umami. You mix it with fresh cabbage and crunchy,
crispy beans, garlic and nuts. And then add lime, chilli
In Burma they have a
multitude of uses including
and Amy Chung, otherwise and garlic oil, and you can add a bit of tomato as well. being deep-fried to make pe
So it’s kind of fresh and you get the caffeine hit from kyaw (crispy crackers) for
known as The Rangoon Sisters the tea. We usually have it every supper club and people mohinga (see left), as well
as being made into dahl.
are really surprised by it because, to be honest, the
A typical Burmese spread appearance of just the pickled tea is not necessarily the Rice flour
“There’ll be lots of dishes, all set out on a table most beautiful thing because it’s gone a bit dark and Made from
together so you’re all eating at the same time. You mulchy. But when you combine it in the salad, it’s really finely ground
would have a selection of curries, so that could be delicious. After they’ve tasted it, people have said it rice, this
meat or fish and seafood curries. You’d also have reminds them of a pesto or cheese.” gluten-free
these epic Burmese salads on the table – you might flour has a wide range of
have a lahpet (tea leaf salad, pictured above) or you Mohinga uses across the whole of
Asia, from making noodles,
could have an aubergine salad – you would always have “It’s the national dish of Burma, so you find it
dosas and hoppers to being
lots of rice alongside that. You’ll also probably have a everywhere, all across the country. You get a bowl
used as a thickener. We use
very clear, brothy soup, quite a simple one, so you have with rice vermicelli noodles on the bottom and then
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN POOLE, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ANTTI JOKINEN/GETTY IMAGES

it in most of our batter
a little sip in between mouthfuls of curries and salads. this really aromatic fish-flavoured broth poured on recipes as it provides a
You’ll also have a vegetable platter with lots of raw top. And then you have all the condiments on top, crisp and light texture.
vegetables for dipping into a really rich, sour sauce. which is really important in Burmese cuisine. So you
So lots of variety.” get lime for some more freshness and zingy-ness,
you get chilli for the spice, and then you get this
Lahpet wonderfully, crispy, deep-fried pe kyaw (chana dal
“This is definitely something that’s unique to Burma. fritter) on top for extra texture. Then you get a boiled
It’s tea leaves that have been pickled for a certain egg as well for creaminess. So all of that together
amount of time so they become intensely flavoured. makes this an epic bowl of deliciousness!”
Emily and Amy Chung

are sisters, doctors and home
cooks who started their
sell-out supper club in 2013.
On episode 210 they talk Listen to the latest podcast
about Burmese cooking and via Omagazine.com,
writing their first book, The Rangoon Sisters Acast, iTunes or your favourite
(£20, Ebury Press). podcast provider

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www.schoolofartisanfood.org
The School of Artisan Food, Lower Motor Yard, Welbeck,
Nottinghamshire S80 3LR
01909 532171
To register your interest email
[email protected]
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61 Brandy alexander
recipe index
Starters, snacks, drinks and sides
53 39 23
21 Smoked haddock risotto 4

49 White fish with butternut and ginger mash LC GF
22 Cauliflower bhajis V
Vegetables
49 Beetroot spaghetti with dolcelatte, walnuts and chard V
72 Crescentine fritti
36 Broken lasagne and white bean soup V LC 4
75 Pickled mussels and octopus with XO aïoli GF
23 Cauliflower and broccoli soup V LC 4
57 Potato gems, buttermilk roe GF
23 Cauliflower, walnut and apple salad V LC GF
76 Salt-baked beetroot with macadamia and mulberry V GF
53 Gochujang buttered cauliflower with quick pickles V
59 Sunny side cocktail
53 Gochujang egg mayo V
Mains 51 Omelette wrap with satay sauce V

19 Spiced celeriac rostis with harissa yogurt V GF
37 Veggie reuben V LC
Birds
44 Caesar salad with cheesy croutons LC
58 Chicken ‘schnitty’ and fermented chilli mayo
Breakfast, brunch, baking and puddings
40 Easy roast chicken 4
87 Black forest pavlova GF
52 Gochujang-glazed chicken and sweet potato traybake
28 Blood orange, poppy seed and marzipan loaf cake 4
50 Quick roast chicken with white bean and rosemary mash GF
33 Blueberry and lemon crème fraîche scones 4
12 Soy-braised chicken with kohlrabi salad
90 Cheese soufflé
39 Cornmeal and blueberry pancakes
Meat
42 Full English pancakes
98 Beef stew and dumplings 4
76 Honey madeleines
47 Bolognese pizza LC
31 Lemon and lime macaroon tart
89 Game dumplings with bashed neeps
16 Pear crumble
36 Harissa pork chops with warm carrot, cumin and rice salad LC
26 Rhubarb and custard cake 4
8 Urfa kıymalı yoğurtlu tantuni
88 Royal crumpet
59 Single-origin coffee custard tart with coffee crumble
Fish and seafood
38 Brazilian-style fish stew LC 4
42 Lemon sole with brown shrimp butter GF
vegan V vegetarian LC low calorie* GF gluten-free** 4 freezable drinks

* LOW-CAL = UNDER 550 CALORIES. FOR MORE HEALTHY IDEAS HEAD TO P34 ** RECIPES ARE GLUTEN-FREE ACCORDING TO INDUSTRY STANDARDS

still hungry?
unwind back page basics
What could be more satisfying

than a hearty beef stew topped
with herby dumplings
Recipe ADAM BUSH Photograph SAM STOWELL
Beef stew and flour and roll again to neaten. Nestle into the
top of the stew. Return to the oven, uncovered,
dumplings for 30 minutes until the dumplings are cooked
through and golden. Serve scattered with more
STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE REYNOLDS

parsley, if you like.
3 HOURS 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
olive oil 2 tbsp, plus extra for frying (optional) saturates 16.5G | carbs 43.7G
plain flour 3 tbsp sugars 5.4G
braising beef steak 1kg, cut into 4cm pieces fibre 5.6G
onion 1, diced protein 59.6G
carrots 2, diced salt 1.2G
celery 2 sticks, diced
bay leaf 1
tomato purée 2 tbsp
beef stock 1 litre
DUMPLINGS
plain flour 125g, plus extra for dusting
baking powder 1 tsp
flat-leaf parsley a handful, finely
chopped, plus extra to serve (optional)
suet 60g
1 Heat the oil in a casserole over a

medium-high heat. Tip the flour
onto a plate and season well.
Toss each piece of beef in the
flour until well coated. Fry in
batches, adding more oil if
needed, for 4-5 minutes or
until golden, scooping out the
cooked pieces onto a plate.
2 Heat the oven to 160C/
fan 140C/gas 3. Tip the
veg and bay leaf into the
casserole with a pinch of salt
and cook for 10 minutes,
scraping the bottom, until
softened slightly. Stir in the
tomato purée and any of the
remaining seasoned flour.
Cook for another minute before
adding the stock and browned
beef. Bring to the boil, put on a lid
and cook in the oven for 2 hours. DON’T MISS
Remove the lid for 30 minutes THE MARCH ISSUE
more, or until the beef is meltingly
tender and the gravy has thickened.
OF O FOR LOW AND
3 To make the dumplings, mix together SLOW LAMB HOT POT,
the ingredients with plenty of seasoning HEALTHY MIDWEEK
and 80-100ml of water to make a dough. MEALS, VEGGIE STARS
Form into eight balls, then dust lightly with AND MORE – ON SALE
25 FEBRUARY

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CLEVER TWISTS Bolognese pizza • Harissa pork chops • Spiced celeriac rostis • Blood orange loaf cake

Mark Hix’s winter

ingredients we produce in the UK at this time of year sustainability

Lulu Grimes, managing editor

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Lemon and lime macaroon tart

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