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Olive 202102 40 2021-01-28 41 PDF
Olive 202102 40 2021-01-28 41 PDF
eat
O FEBRUARY 2021
Coffee custard tart • Brazilian fish stew • Cauliflower bhajis • And the best hash browns ever
February 2021
UK £5.25 cook discover unwind
Lemon sole with brown shrimp butter • Honey madeleines • Broken lasagne and white bean soup • Lemon and lime macaroon tart • Soy-braised chicken with kohlrabi salad
EASY
SEASONAL
RECIPES
nourishing
midweek meals
The restaurants
of the future
Learn to make
STYLING:XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX.FOOD STYLING:XXXXXX XXXXXXXX. WORDS XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX
the lightest
cheese soufflé
crumble
weekend menu
crumpets, dumplings, pavlova rhubarb
get the look
CAN $13.99 US $12.99 AUS $14.50
Omagazine.com
Vintage-meets-modern kitchen
crunch cake
January 2021 Omagazine.com 1
Our brewmasters artfully combine 4 hop varieties from
around the world to create a beer that inspires new
taste adventures. Discover Birrificio Angelo Poretti No. 4.
For more
recipes,
visit O
welcome February might be the briefest
month, but it’s not short on
special days to cook for – an
excellent excuse to try your hand
Your brand-new O
Our promise to you
magazine. at new recipes, make a cocktail O is brought to you by the same team as
com (p59 and p61) or treat yourself BBC Good Food, Britain’s leading food media
to a fancy new crêpe pan (p9)? brand. As you’ll see from Our Commitment on
page 96, we're committed to improving diversity
Choose from two new brunch-
On the cover and inclusivity, and work with a wide range
worthy recipes for Pancake Day of contributors to drive authentic change.
and, this year, St Valentine scores a Sunday, so if you’re There’s so much more to explore beyond the
inclined to romance opt for a low-maintenance Sunday pages of your magazine, including imaginative
recipes, award-winning podcasts and lively
roast chicken for two with a bottle of beaujolais videos showcasing cooking skills and techniques
recommended by Kate Hawkings on p60. on Omagazine.com. Here’s what you can
February is also an optimum month for comfort expect from us.
food in all of its guises. Our cover recipe, Edd Kimber’s our recipes work
Recipe rhubarb and custard crunch cake, strikes a bright All our recipes are developed and thoroughly tested
Edd Kimber note in the chill. Forced rhubarb is one of the hero by experts, so you know they’ll work every time.
@Omagazine
75
inspiration 54 The O taste test
7 February inspiration
In our new column, we put marmalade
on test, so you can use the best in your recipes 80
Make the most of the month by choosing
seasonal ingredients and shopping smart 97 Index
Get all of this month’s recipes in one place
70 10 things I love about
Bologna, Italy
cook
98 Brilliant basics
Jacob Kenedy of Bocca di Lupo shares his
Beef stew topped with herby dumplings
favourite ingredients from the city where he first
learnt to make gelato
16 Cook with the season
How to use winter’s best ingredients
discover 74 Cook like a local: Tasmania
ALL THE INFORMATION IN THIS MAGAZINE WAS CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT
A taste of this unique Australian island at home
25 Brilliant new bakes
Edd Kimber shares four fruit-laden recipes 56 Eat in, eat out
unwind
Try out some new ingredients to make these
34 Everyday healthy modern Aussie-inspired recipes
Five nourishing recipes to enjoy
60 Wine
80 Kitchens to covet
40 Made for two O’s wine expert, Kate Hawkings, is all for
Rosie Birkett’s north London kitchen makes
Delicious, special dishes to make at home when drinking beaujolais this month
the most of quirky upcycled accessories
it’s just the pair of you
61 The measure
86 Leisurely extravagance
47 Leftovers love Treat loved ones this Valentine’s Day to dessert
A long Sunday is the perfect opportunity to
Make the most of ragu from the night before cocktails, pink tequila and small-batch teas
recreate Mark Hix’s comforting pub dishes
on this clever pizza, perfect for a Friday night in
62 Pro vs punter
90 Kitchen therapy
48 Smart suppers A critic and an O reader test a make-at-home
Perfecting the art of a light-as-air savoury soufflé
Four easy and delicious midweek meals packed meal box featuring a taste of Burgundy
with satisfying, nourishing carbs 92 On the O podcast
64 Brave new openings
Relax and listen to Emily and Amy Chung (The
52 3 ways with gochujang Celebrating the energy and ingenuity of those
Rangoon Sisters) talk all things Burmese cuisine
Experiment with this spicy Korean chilli paste chefs and owners opening new restaurants
LOVEOLIVE10
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february
inspiration
Get motivated in your kitchen with 11 great
ways to make the most of this month, from
luxurious meal kits to must-have new
products and initiatives worth supporting
Urfa kıymalı
yoğurtlu tantuni
Tantuni is a traditional Turkish street food
of finely diced beef or lamb, and salad
wrapped in lavash bread. This is a lovely,
quick alternative using beef mince. Urfa
chilli is used widely in Turkish cuisine.
The peppers are sundried to develop a
deep mahogany colour, then ground to
flakes and sprinkled over anything from
salads to kebabs.
1 Mix together half the onions with the sliced tomatoes and set
aside. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry
the mince for 5 minutes, breaking it up as it cooks, until browned
all over. Turn down the heat, add the remaining onions and the
chopped parsley stalks, and cook for 10-12 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, make the yogurt sauce. Stir the yogurt well, then
add the zest and juice of half the lemon, along with half of the
garlic, Ω tbsp of urfa chilli paste, the honey, dried mint and a
good pinch of salt. Stir everything well, then leave to one side.
3 Add the remaining garlic to the beef, then grate the whole
tomatoes straight into the pan, discarding their skins. Stir in the
remaining urfa chilli paste, a good pinch of salt and pepper, and
200ml of cold water. Stir well, turn up the heat, and allow the
liquid to reduce for 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in
1 tbsp of chopped parsley.
Urfa chilli paste
Belazu has recently launched an urfa chilli
4 To serve, rest a wrap on top of the mince mixture so that it
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN GREGSON
sumac or pul biber, if you like. Repeat with the remaining wraps. content creator. She is passionate about her
family’s Turkish Cypriot recipes, which have been
PER SERVING 596 kcals | fat 36G | saturates 14.2G | carbs 32.9G passed down through oral tradition. @melizcooks
sugars 11.2G | fibre 5G | protein 32.7G | salt 1.2G
crav ng
The good things
co o ing
Get cosy with a meal kit for two
Spending Valentine’s Day with your loved one,
your bubble or want to send a very special gift? Leading chefs have been
refining their delivery offerings after sell-out Christmas boxes. Our pick
is Tom Kerridge’s With Love Menu, the perfect restaurant kit for cooks of
all skill levels. First up, easy-to-assemble canapés: lobster and avo tartlets,
Tunworth gougères, and cider-slicked pork belly, black pudding and
crackling. Beef wellington with onion and truffle purée or Cotswold white
chicken, gnocchi and morels are mains, with sticky toffee pudding, clotted
cream and petits fours to close. Kits from £165 at tomkerridge.com.
For more, search DIY meal kits at Omagazine.com.
co ting
Add style to your Pancake Day
creations with our favourite
investment pieces
De Buyer Mineral B
crêpe pan, 30cm
£30.99, souschef.co.uk
Feel every inch the professional with this
stylish pan. The large base allows you to swirl
your batter for the thinnest, crispiest (if that’s
your thing) pancakes, and the low sides make
it a doddle to slide them onto your plate.
catching
up Tune in to the
Omagazine
and cuisines. Punjab is an agricultural region – a land of farmers. Pulses,
grains and vegetables were the standard diet.”
She adds: “It’s predominantly vegetarian. The daily diet is different types of
dahls and roti, and sabji (any sort of vegetable curry). I’d encourage people to
learn to make old-school Punjabi food. It’s nutritionally complete, filling,
sustainable and environmentally friendly.”
Among the workshops on offer, Surinder and Safia teach breadmaking,
how to cook a three-course Indian meal and North Indian street food. But
they’ve also found ways to bring people together during the pandemic.
“We knew that people were feeling isolated in lockdown, so we had the idea
of offering free cook-alongs with our dinner kits, which have been fun.”
podcast
You can find vouchers for Surinder and Safia’s cookery workshop or meal
kits on their website, purepunjabi.co.uk.
Tessa Clarke was one of the founders of the innovative
free app OLIO, which was invented in a bid to reduce
the massive problem of food waste, not only in the
UK but all over the world. In episode 219 of the O
magazine podcast she talks about how she had her
light bulb moment, leading to the creation of the app
and the practical challenges of rolling it out. We also
hear how last year’s lockdown was a turning point for
OLIO, with people using it to help those in need. Plus,
she shares her plans to empower more people and
communities to share their unwanted food, and more.
Listen to the
latest podcast via
Omagazine.com,
Acast, iTunes or your
favourite podcast
provider.
LA Brewery Sparkling
English Rose
A champagne-inspired
kombucha that has delicate
bubbles, floral rose and
elderflower notes with a gentle
background funk. Drink chilled
as a booze-free aperitif.
£10, labrewery.co.uk
Slow Vinegar Company vinegars
The Slow Vinegar Company makes small batches
from scratch. We love the elderflower vinegar with
co ing w th
its subtle floral sweetness, and warming ginger.
Try them in cocktails as well as salad dressings.
Shopping inspiration
for the month ahead
Rollagranola Organic
& Nutty Oat Granola
Noble House Prepared Made from 100% organic, vegan and
Noble House Prepared makes high-quality, chef-prepared gluten-free ingredients, this super-nutty Zepice gourmet chilli paste
frozen meals. There are some delicious dishes and the portions granola has a nice toasty flavour and This fruity, fiery paste gets extra
are generous. We tried the pork dijon – lovely, tender meat coconut sweetness. Great for grazing, depth from mulato chillies smoked
in a creamy mustard sauce. It’s perfect comfort food with mash sprinkled over fruit and yogurt, or over applewood. Add to glazes and
(sold separately). Meals from £6.25, noblehouseprepared.com crumbled over a crêpe for Pancake Day. marinades or use for spicy stews
£4.99, rollagranola.com and soups. £6.50, zepice.com
champio ing
Girls Who Grind Coffee
Shaking things up on the coffee scene since 2017, Girls Who
The coffee roastery supporting
female coffee growers
in season
this month
had o k Pear crumble
pears This is a classic crumble with a thick, crunchy top.
rhub rb fingers to gently rub the butter into the flour, until it resembles
sandy breadcrumbs.
4 Scatter the crumble all over the top of the pears, then sprinkle
with some sea salt flakes, if you like. Bake for 30 minutes until the
crumble is golden and a little of the sauce is bubbling up at the
sides. Flash under a hot grill to brown, if you like. Serve with
custard or ice cream.
pears
Any pears will work for this recipe but some of our favourites are
Conference, Red Williams, Comice or Concorde. Just use ripe ones
– underripe fruit will result in a less flavourful crumble.
1 Tip the celeriac and potatoes into a thin, clean tea towel and
squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Put into a bowl with the
celeriac
Celeriac is a variety of celery cultivated for its
cornflour, 1 egg, cumin seeds, ground peppercorns and plenty of bulbous root. It has a mild celery-like flavour but
salt. Stir thoroughly to combine. is much deeper and nuttier, with a pleasing texture
2 Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over
a medium heat and spoon in four mounds of the celeriac mix to once cooked. Try to find it with healthy looking
make 10cm-round rostis, then press to flatten. Fry for 4-5 minutes celery and leaves attached at the top – this is a good
or until deeply golden, then flip and repeat. Keep warm in a low
oven while you cook the rest with the remaining oil. sign of its freshness.
Smoked haddock risotto and leave to poach for 5 minutes, then scoop out onto a plate
with a slotted spoon. Flake into large chunks, discarding any skin
or bones. Keep the stock warm.
These may not seem like obvious bedfellows, but the 2 Heat 50g of the butter in a large, deep frying pan or shallow
subtle smokiness of the smoked haddock is uber casserole until foaming, then add the onion with a pinch of salt.
comforting with the rice, stock and parmesan. Cook gently for 10 minutes until soft. Stir in the garlic and cook
for another 2 minutes.
45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY 3 Stir in the risotto rice and mix really well to ensure each grain is
coated in the butter. Pour in the wine and bubble until reduced by
chicken stock 1.4 litres at least half. Stir in the cabbage, then add the stock, a ladleful at
smoked haddock 500g a time, stirring constantly and only adding more once it is fully
unsalted butter 75g incorporated. After 10-15 minutes of cooking, keep tasting the
onion 1, finely chopped rice – it should be cooked but with a very slight bite. You may not
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped need all of the stock.
risotto rice 300g 4 When the rice is cooked, gently fold in the haddock, parmesan
white wine a small glass and a squeeze of lemon juice. Season and add the remaining
Sweetheart cabbage Ω, shredded butter, then remove from the heat to sit for 5 minutes. Stir again
parmesan 50g, finely grated gently, then top with the lemon zest and parsley to serve.
lemon 1, zested plus some juice
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, finely chopped PER SERVING 681 kcals | fat 21.4G
saturates 12.8G | carbs 67.8G | sugars 5.8G
1 Heat the stock until just simmering, then remove fibre 5.5G | protein 41.6G | salt 3.4G
from the heat and add the haddock. Cover
1 Bring a pan of lightly salted water to the boil and simmer the
cauliflower pieces for 1-2 minutes until just softening. Drain really
well and leave to cool completely.
2 Put the flours and spices in a bowl along with a big pinch of salt,
then gradually whisk in the sparkling water until it forms a stiff
batter. Gently fold in the onion and cooled cauliflower pieces until
they’re completely coated in batter.
3 Put the yogurt, lime zest and juice, and coriander in a blender
Cauliflower bhajis with plenty of seasoning and whizz until smooth and combined.
4 Fill a pan no more than a third full with oil and heat to 180C or
until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Line a plate with
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES | SERVES 4�6 AS A SNACK | EASY | V
kitchen paper and set it by the hob.
5 Use a dessert spoon to carefully drop spoonfuls of the batter
A twist on the curry house classic.
into the hot oil, frying for 3-4 minutes, in batches, until really crisp.
Use a slotted spoon to scoop out onto the prepared plate and
cauliflower 1, broken into small florets, stem chopped and small
sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Repeat with the remaining batter.
leaves cut into pieces
Serve with the yogurt for dipping.
gram flour 200g
plain flour 25g
ground turmeric 1 tsp PER SERVING �6� 273 kcals | fat 12.1G
ground cumin 1 tsp saturates 2.5G | carbs 26.9G | sugars 5.1G
black mustard seeds 1 tsp fibre 5.7G | protein 11.3G | salt 0.1G
get the lo
Kana dip bowl in basic white
(£24, kanalondon.com)
cauliflo r
A good sign of a cauli’s freshness is its leaves. They
Nom Living, fluted forest side plate,
should be green and not wilting, as well as the florets
unglazed rim (£20, nomliving.com) being bright white and unblemished. Don’t throw away
The Linen Works, linen napkin, simple hem
the leaves or stem – they’re perfectly delicious to eat.
(£8.50, thelinenworks.co.uk)
Subscribe to O
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Brilliant
new bakes
Edd Kimber shares four fabulous
fruit-laden recipes to bring sunshine
flavours to the winter months
Recipes EDD KIMBER
Photographs JONATHAN GREGSON
STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN
Rhubarb and
custard cake
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES + COOLING the butter into the flour mixture using your
SERVES 10 | EASY fingertips until a dough forms. Cover and chill
until firm.
QUICK CUSTARD 3 Meanwhile, to make the cake, lightly butter
custard powder 1 tbsp a loose-bottomed, deep, 23cm round cake tin
caster sugar 30g (a springform tin will also work well) and line
whole milk 120ml the base with baking paper. Heat the oven to
unsalted butter 10g 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
CRUMBLE 4 Put the butter and sugar in a large bowl and
plain flour 75g beat using an electric whisk for 5 minutes until
caster sugar 35g light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time,
unsalted butter 50g beating until combined before adding another.
SOURED CREAM CAKE Add the vanilla and beat again to combine. In a
unsalted butter 175g, at room temperature, separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking
plus extra for the tin powder and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt. Add the flour
caster sugar 175g mixture to the wet ingredients in three additions,
eggs 3 large alternating with the soured cream. Make sure to
vanilla extract 1 tsp start and finish with the flour mixture.
self-raising flour 250g 5 Scrape the batter into the prepared cake tin
baking powder Ω tsp and level the surface. Remove the crumble and
soured cream 100ml custard from the fridge. Dollop the custard over
rhubarb 200g, cut into lengths the cake batter, then scatter over the rhubarb
pieces. Break up the crumble and arrange it over
1 First, make the custard. Put the custard the rhubarb. Bake for 50 minutes or until golden
powder and sugar in a small pan and whisk and the cake is just pulling away from the sides
to combine. Pour in the milk and whisk until of the tin. Leave to cool for 15 minutes before
smooth. Put the pan over a medium heat and removing to a wire rack to cool completely.
warm, whisking constantly, until the custard It will keep, covered, at room temperature for
thickens and just starts to bubble. Scrape the three days.
custard into a small bowl, press a sheet of
baking paper on the surface, and chill until cold. PER SERVING 452 kcals | fat 24G
2 To make the crumble, mix together the flour, saturates 14.3G | carbs 51.3G | sugars 25.3G
sugar and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Rub fibre 1.7G | protein 6.6G | salt 0.6G
unsalted butter 100g, at room temperature, plus extra for the tin
caster sugar 200g
blood oranges 2, zested, plus 30ml of juice and some extra
slices to decorate
eggs 2 large
vanilla extract 1 tsp
plain flour 200g
baking powder 1º tsp
natural yogurt 125ml
poppy seeds 2 tbsp, plus extra to decorate
marzipan 85g
icing sugar 200g
SCONES
self-raising flour 375g, plus extra for dusting
baking powder 1 tsp
caster sugar 75g
unsalted butter 125g
crème fraîche 120ml
vanilla extract 1 tsp
eggs 3 large
blueberries 350g
LEMON GLAZE
icing sugar 125g
lemon Ω, zested and juiced
Omagazine.com
• Head to Omagazine.com for more seasonal bakes,
including clementine drizzle loaf, rhubarb tart with star anise,
and banana bread with passion fruit frosting.
nourish
high protein
low cal
Veggie reuben toss to coat, seasoning lightly. Return to the oven for another
10 minutes until deeply browned and tender. Remove from the
oven and leave to cool.
30 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY | V LC
2 Combine the mayo, ketchup, horseradish, pickle, onion, hot
sauce and allspice in a small bowl, seasoning lightly. Spread
closed-cup mushrooms 150g, thickly sliced one side of each bread slice with the dressing. Top one slice
rapeseed oil 1 tbsp, plus extra for brushing with the mushrooms, cheese and pickled cabbage. Top with
garlic 1 clove, crushed the other slice of bread, dressing-side down.
low-fat mayonnaise 1 tbsp 3 Put a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Brush both sides
low-salt, low-sugar tomato ketchup 1 tbsp of the sandwich with a little more oil, then add to the pan and
horseradish sauce 1 tsp press down using a spatula for 2-3 minutes until the underside
dill pickle 1/2 spear, very finely chopped, plus extra of the sandwich is golden. Carefully flip the sandwich and press
spears to serve down again for 2 minutes until golden on the other side and the
spring onion 1, white part only, very finely chopped cheese has melted. Transfer the sandwich to a plate, slice and
hot sauce a few drops serve with the dill pickles.
ground allspice a large pinch
rye bread 2 slices PER SERVING 510 kcals | fat 34.6G
Swiss cheese (such as emmental) 1 slice
saturates 6.4G | carbs 31.2G | sugars 7.1G
pickled red cabbage 2 tbsp
fibre 5.5G | protein 15.8G | salt 1.5G
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Tip the mushrooms
on a baking tray and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from
the oven and sprinkle over the garlic. Drizzle over the oil and
nourish
low cal
high protein
low cal
low fat
low salt
Cornmeal and whisking as you go, until just combined. Some lumps are fine,
but you don’t want to see any traces of flour.
blueberry pancakes 2 Coat 200g of the blueberries in the remaining tsp of flour
and then gently fold into the batter along with most of the
35 MINUTES + RESTING | SERVES 4 | EASY orange zest. Leave the batter to rest for 5 minutes.
3 Heat the oven to a low temp – this is just to keep your pancakes
wholemeal flour 115g, plus 1 tsp warm. Put a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat
fine cornmeal 115g and add 1 tsp of oil. Once hot, add enough batter for four
baking powder Ω tsp pancakes (approximately 2 tbsp per pancake). Cook for 1Ω-
bicarbonate of soda Ω tsp 2 minutes or until the bottoms are golden. Carefully turn the
maple syrup 2 tbsp, plus more to drizzle pancakes and cook for another 1Ω minutes until cooked through.
buttermilk 320ml If you find the pancakes are cooking to quickly on the outside,
eggs 2 lower the heat.
butter 25g, melted 4 Transfer the cooked pancakes to a baking sheet and put in the
blueberries 320g oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter in two more
orange 1, zested batches, using 1 tsp of oil for each batch, if necessary. Stack
rapeseed oil 3 tsp three pancakes on each plate, and add a dollop of yogurt, a
low-fat yogurt 4 tbsp drizzle of maple syrup and a sprinkling of the remaining orange
zest to serve.
1 Sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and bicarb
into a large bowl with a good pinch of salt. Whisk together the PER SERVING 461 kcals | fat 16.5G
maple syrup, buttermilk, eggs and melted butter in a jug. saturates 7.3G | carbs 60.6G | sugars 19.8G
Gradually add the buttermilk mixture to the dry ingredients, fibre 5.2G | protein 15.2G | salt 0.9G
nourish
NEW
content
daily!
Leftovers love
Make the most of ragu from the night before
on this clever pizza, perfect for a Friday night in
Recipe ANNA GLOVER Photographs SAM STOWELL
Bolognese pizza
35 MINUTES + PROVING | MAKES 1 LARGE
PIZZA (SERVES 2-4) | EASY | LC
scatter over both the cheeses. Heat the pan over a medium
heat for 5 minutes until the crust starts to look puffy, and the
base is lightly golden.
4 Mix together the butter and garlic, and brush over the crust.
Transfer to the oven and cook for 12-15 minutes or until the
cheese is molten and bubbling, and the crust springs back when
pressed. Scatter over some more parmesan and a few torn basil
leaves, if you like, to serve.
juice. Mash until smooth, adding the rest of the coconut milk,
if needed. Season and stir in three-quarters of the coriander rainbow chard 125g, stalks and leaves separated, sliced
leaves. Taste and add more lime juice if needed. cooked beetroot 175g, drained and roughly chopped
2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over a walnut pieces 75g
medium heat and fry the ginger for 2 minutes until crisp and extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain onion 1, finely chopped
on kitchen paper. garlic 3 cloves, finely chopped
3 Season the fish with salt and pepper. Add the remaining oil and wholewheat spaghetti 300g
the butter to the frying pan, and heat over a high heat. Put the lemon juice a squeeze
fish, skin-side down, in the pan, then reduce the heat to medium. dolcelatte or gorgonzola 125g, crumbled into chunks
Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the skin is crisp and golden, and
you can see the flesh has cooked two-thirds of the way up. Turn 1 Steam the chard leaves and stalks, then refresh them under
the fish over, baste with the buttery oil and cook for a further cold running water and set aside.
2 minutes or until just cooked and the fish is opaque and flaky. 2 Purée the beetroot using a stick blender in a bowl and set
4 Warm the mash if needed and spoon onto four serving plates. aside. Toast the walnuts in a large, dry frying pan for 3 minutes,
Top with the broccoli and fish, and scatter over the crispy ginger, tossing them occasionally until they start to colour. Set aside.
the remaining chilli and coriander leaves before serving. 3 Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and fry
the onion for 7 minutes until softened, then add the garlic and
cook for a further minute. Add the beetroot purée and cook,
PER SERVING 341 KCALS | fat 16.7G
stirring, for 2 minutes until reduced slightly.
saturates 7.9G | carbs 20.7G | sugars 15.1G 4 Cook the spaghetti in plenty of boiling salted water following
fibre 5.2G | protein 24.5G | salt 0.3G pack instructions. When the pasta is cooked but still a little al
dente, drain, saving 100ml of the cooking water. Add the pasta
to the beetroot mixture along with enough of the cooking water
to make a light sauce. Turn the pasta to coat it in the sauce,
adding more of the cooking water, if needed. Add the chard
leaves and stalks, a good squeeze of lemon juice and season.
Warm through briefly.
5 Spoon the pasta into four large shallow bowls and finish with
the toasted walnuts and dolcelatte or gorgonzola scattered over.
Much as I love potatoes, this herby white bean mash 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Season the chicken
makes a fantastic right-carb alternative. You can either thighs and put in a large roasting tin. Toss the onion wedges in
mash the beans roughly with a potato masher so they the oil and dot around the chicken. Squeeze over the lemon juice
retain a bit of texture, or blend using a stick blender into and cut the halves into chunks and put in the tin. Tuck in the bay
a smooth and creamy sauce. Chicken thighs are not only leaves and rosemary sprigs. Roast for 20 minutes, then remove
full of flavour, they’re much cheaper than breasts – try to the rosemary and add the tomatoes, and cook for a further
buy organic, free-range, if you can. 15 minutes or until the chicken is golden and cooked through.
2 Meanwhile, make the mash. Put all the ingredients, except the
50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF rosemary, in a pan over a medium heat, stirring occasionally.
When it almost starts to bubble, reduce the heat to low and
chicken thighs 6-8 cook, covered with a lid, for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and set
red onions 2, each cut into 6 wedges aside for the flavours to infuse while the chicken is roasting.
extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp 3 When ready to serve, remove the bay leaf from the beans and
lemon 1 large, halved either mash with a potato masher or blend using a stick blender
bay leaves 3 until smooth and creamy. Season, stir in the rosemary and
rosemary 2 sprigs warm through.
small vine-ripened tomatoes 300g 4 Serve the chicken with the tomatoes and onions, spooning
WHITE BEAN MASH over any juices from the tin, and the bean mash on the side.
cannellini beans 2 x 400g tins, drained and rinsed
whole milk 270ml PER SERVING 601 kcals | fat 32.2G
bay leaves 3 saturates 12.3G | carbs 31.1G | sugars 11.8G
fibre 10.5G | protein 41.4G | salt 0.7G
Omelette wrap
with satay sauce
Ring the changes with an omelette wrap, which takes
the place of the more usual wheat-based tortilla wrap.
The right-carb element comes in the form of brown
jasmine rice, which is combined with crunchy raw
vegetables, a peanut sauce, lots of herbs and a lively red
onion pickle to make a nutritious filling.
Gochujang-glazed chicken
and sweet potato traybake
1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
mayo is very thick. You’ll make more than you need, so cover and Toss with the cucumber and mooli, then set aside to pickle.
chill half – it will keep, covered and chilled, for up to three days. 3 Meanwhile, mash together the butter, miso and gochujang in
3 Stir the chopped eggs, spring onion and sesame seeds into the a small bowl with a pinch of salt. After 30 minutes, remove the
mayo and season. Divide between the four pieces of bread, and foil from the cauliflower, and spoon the gochujang butter over
add an egg half to the middle of two of them. Sandwich with the the steaks, helping it to melt into the florets. Roast again for
other two pieces. Cut in half, to serve, to show the cross section 10-15 minutes or until the stalks are tender and the tips are
of the yolk in the middle. Serve with some prawn cocktail crisps golden. Serve with the sticky rice and the cucumber pickle
and watercress, if you like. alongside. Scatter over the sesame seeds to serve.
PER SERVING 694 kcals | fat 54.6G PER SERVING 557 kcals | fat 20.1G
saturates 9.1G | carbs 32.1G | sugars 4.2G saturates 8.9G | carbs 78.2G | sugars 11.7G
fibre 2.1G | protein 17G | salt 1.4G fibre 5.8G | protein 13G | salt 0.9G
the O
taste test
Marmalade
We put branded products to the test so
you know which ones to look out for.
This month, we trialled 11 marmalades
cook's tips
You can often tell a marmalade’s
to see which came out on top strength and bitterness from its
colour. The darker the marmalade’s
hue, the stronger and more bitter
HOW WE TESTED it will be. If you’re making your first
We tasted all the marmalades raw, looking at peel thickness, peel foray into marmalade, get a lighter
amount and consistency, as well as the overall flavour. We then looking one.
spread each one on buttered sourdough toast (writer’s own!) and
tasted them again.
Where possible we chose marmalades with thick-cut peel, as
we feel this is the cut for a true marmalade aficionado.
We’ve highlighted a few of the best for flavour, with one
all-rounder that came out on top.
Harvey Nichols Waitrose Duchy Wilkin & Sons Ltd Fortnum & Mason Rosebud Preserves
Seville Orange Thin Organic Seville ‘Tawny’ Orange Burlington Seville Orange
Cut Marmalade Orange Marmalade Thick Cut Breakfast Marmalade
£3.50/340g Thick Cut Marmalade Marmalade Medium Cut
The perfect entry-level £2/340g £2.30/454g £4.95/340g £3.95/227g
marmalade. A thick set with A dark orange colour One for the marmalade As its name suggests, this A beautiful soft set with a
a light orange colour and with plenty of thick connoisseur. Devilishly dark may well be the perfect dark, intense colour. The rind
delicate, thin peel. It’s on the strips of peel in a smooth with a slight caramelised marmalade for those early is cut into thick squares,
sweeter side, with less of the orange jam. A really flavour and chunky but mornings. A beautiful orange making it easy to spread
intense bitterness of some of balanced marmalade, plenty tender peel. Very bitter and colour with a nice, thick set. and giving intense bursts of
the others but has a really of bitterness matched with a grown-up flavour. It was Absolutely packed with orangey bitterness that is
rounded orange flavour. sweet, zesty flavour. A good probably the most intense thin-cut, tender peel that is absolutely perfect when
Perfect for the newly all-rounder and would be marmalade we tried, so not matched with a bright and eaten on toast. This was
converted, for kids or when perfect for baking. one for the newbies but fresh jam that’s packed with matched with a balanced,
you want to eat lots of rather the hardened orange flavour. Perfect for sweet-sour zestiness from
marmalade toast without marmalade superfan. breakfast or baking. the preserve itself and
getting taste bud fatigue. lip-smacking orange flavour.
9/10
7/10 7/10 8/10 8/10 overall
winner PHOTOGRAPH: MANUELA RUTHER/STOCKFOOD
TART BASE
caster sugar 90g
butter 120g
plain flour 200g, plus extra for dusting
cornflour 15g
egg yolk 1
COFFEE CUSTARD
espresso 120ml (find Milk Beach’s single-origin coffee beans
at milkbeach.com/shop)
double cream 400ml
egg yolks 9
caster sugar 90g
COFFEE CRUMBLE
dark chocolate 50g
butter 30g, melted
used coffee grounds 40g
caster sugar 60g
plain flour 30g
1 To make the base, beat together the sugar and butter using an
electric whisk until light and fluffy. Add the plain flour, cornflour
and a pinch of salt, then bring together into a dough using your
hands, adding 1 tsp of cold water at a time until smooth. Wrap
and chill for at least 1 hour.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Roll the pastry out on
a lightly floured worksurface, then use it to line a 28cm loose-
bottomed tart case. Trim the edges, line the tart with baking
paper, then tip in some baking beads and bake for 15 minutes.
Remove the beads and paper, pierce the pastry with a fork and
turn down the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Bake for 10 minutes
Sunny side cocktail more, then turn down the oven again to 120C/fan 100C/gas 1.
Whisk the egg yolk, brush it over the base, and bake the case
5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY for another 5 minutes.
3 Mix together all of the coffee custard ingredients, then carefully
chilli-infused rum 25ml pour into the tart case. Bake for 45 minutes-1 hour or until just
mango purée 50ml set with a slight wobble in the middle. Remove from the oven
lemon juice 1 tbsp and leave to cool.
ginger beer 100ml 4 To make the crumble, melt the chocolate and butter in a
grenadine a splash heatproof bowl in the microwave in short bursts. Combine the
red chilli 1, finely sliced, to garnish dry ingredients in a separate bowl. Mix the wet into the dry, then
chill for 1 hour. Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Spread
1 Combine the rum, mango purée, lemon juice the crumble mixture over a baking tray and bake for 10 minutes.
and ginger beer. Pour over ice in a tall glass. Remove from the oven, break up roughly with a fork and bake for
2 Add a splash of grenadine and garnish with another 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
a chilli slice to serve. 5 Top the cooled tart with the coffee crumble, then cut into
slices to serve.
Lapierre Raisins Stéphane Aviron, Chiroubles 2019 Domaine Lucien Domaine des
Gaulois Quincié 2019 £10, coop.co.uk Lardy, Côte du Py Marrans Clos de
£69.75/5 litres, £8.95, From the village of
Chiroubles, the highest
Morgon 2018 Pavillion 2018
morewine.co.uk thewinesociety.com £16.99/£14.99 in a mixed £22.89,
Quintessential fresh, Brilliant value for this in the region and known
case, majestic.co.uk ahadleigh-wine.com
natural bojo from the biodynamic wine made for its delicacy and
A fine example of the Forget flimsy Fleuries from
region’s most famous from 50-year-old vines. freshness. Floral and
muscular wines from the supermarket shelves.
family, and bag-in-box for Plush raspberry fruit silky, it’s lovely alongside
Morgon, aged in oak This wine is very pure, yet
extra eco credentials. with whispers of wintry the roast chicken with
barrels to give extra deep and rich, and stands
Serve slightly chilled spice, a great match white bean and rosemary
depth. Try with the spiced up brilliantly to robust
with the cauliflower with the beef stew and mash on page 50.
celeriac rostis with harissa dishes such as the harissa
bhajis on page 22. dumplings on page 98. yogurt on page 19. pork chops on page 36.
The Measure
Treat loved ones this Valentine’s Day to dessert cocktails, pink tequila and small-batch teas
3 to try...
Words HANNAH GUINNESS
sipping tequilas
Tequila isn’t just for shots and cocktails – aged varieties
can be sipped like a fine whisky or rum
3-ingredient cocktail
How to sweeten a cocktail Brandy alexander
Sweeteners in drinks are essential – they balance
bitterness and enhance texture and flavour. Many
Drink this creamy
cocktails call for simple syrup (gently heat equal dessert cocktail after a
parts sugar and water in a pan until dissolved) Valentine’s Day meal.
but there are other ingredients you can use.
Maple and golden syrup work with dark spirits such
Pour 2 tbsp each of brandy,
as rum and whisky, while marmalade is delicious in an crème de cacao and
old fashioned, or in a breakfast martini with triple sec, gin double cream into a
and lemon. Agave syrup is a must for tequila and mezcal cocktail shaker with ice.
drinks, but also adds flavour to a vodka sour, or a daiquiri.
Honey should be mixed with hot water first but is perfect Shake well, then strain into
in cocktails such as a bee’s knees. Finally, if you do make a coupe glass. Grated a little
a simple syrup, try muscovado or demerara sugar for nutmeg over it and serve.
whisky drinks such as mint juleps and sazeracs.
Home-X by Nico
Tuck test a make-at-
home four-course
dinner inspired by the
flavours of Burgundy
62
discover restaurant kits
Our punter says hearty as anything and totally delicious. The sides are
heavy hitters that aren’t outshone by the meat, and
“Bleak times in winter call for comfort food, and the another green goop (for the artichokes, a different herb
‘A Taste of Burgundy’ menu promises heaps of it. I enjoy this time) adds a welcome flash of colour. The gravy
it with my support bubble in her east London kitchen. comes in restaurant, not home-cooking, portions, raising
“Ordering is easy and the ingredients arrive in good an eyebrow from bubble, but it’s definitely sufficient,
shape, bar the blackcurrant charlotte russe – its fancy and is dotted with lardons, mushrooms and shallots – all
crème diplomat headgear slid around a little en route. manner of good things. It’s a solid main, and just what
God knows how that happened – everything should winter calls for: a great, big, sexy hug of a dish.
have been as safe as a toddler in a European car seat, “On we go. The dessert is nice enough – creamy and
given the care Nico took over the (substantial) tangy after the rich, earthy main. We struggle to liberate
packaging. Better safe than sorry when it comes to it from its container, so it’s further compromised at our
dinner, though, and it is mostly recyclable. We are tired end, but we don’t mind. Rounding things off, the cheese
and therefore pleased that the meal comes together is tangy, the crackers robust and, well, you can’t go
Vicky Tuck is a
easily, with a glance at the instructions and some wrong with chutney.
government social
researcher who lives acceptable guesswork on timings. “Overall, the meal is tasty, good value, and they’ve read
in Hackney, London. “The ham hough terrine has some secret gherkins the room well with the menu. Importantly, in early 2021,
Pre-lockdown, she buried in it (winner) and the accompaniments of pickled it feels like an event, and one we’d gladly repeat.”
would eat out once or veg and a vibrant green goop are piquant and give a nice
twice a week, and her
contrast to the ham. While it’s all very pleasant, I would
favourite cuisine is Ease of ordering: 10/10
Vietnamese, although have saved room for the main, given the choice.
she’s also partial to “Somewhat more elegant than my mum’s noughties
Food: 7/10
a McDonald’s version (a gargantuan stew made with cheap cuts and Prep: 9/10
cheeseburger. designed to feed teenagers), the boeuf bourguignon is Total: 26/30
Purist poised
for action
Humble Chicken, London
A busy Soho reminds
Japanese chef, Angelo Sato,
of boozy Tokyo nights with
his brothers, searching
alleyways for great izakayas
(late-night Japanese food
bars). “Soho’s energy is
insane,” he enthuses. That is why Angelo is
focussed on opening Humble Chicken,
originally pegged for January, when life returns
to Soho and his restaurant can operate as a
lively counter-dining spot. Formerly head chef
at Restaurant Story, Angelo has serious cooking
pedigree but wants his food – “fun” Japanese-
inspired small plates; individual clay-pot rice
dishes; “beak-to-tail” yakitori skewers of liver,
heart, cartilage, gizzards – served in a relaxed
izakaya atmosphere. “Japan’s really socially strict.
The izakaya is where people can be themselves.
It’s a different world.” Tiers aside, Angelo is
convinced London will bounce back. “It’s one of
the world’s biggest cities. Open something new
and cool, people are going to come.”
Skewers from £2;
@humblechicken_uk
COOKING
SOON...
Twelve hot new venues for ’21
2 Fenn, Fulham
Hackney’s Nest team will head west to
open this restaurant. fennrestaurant.co.uk
3 Society, Manchester
Follow-up to Leeds’ Assembly
Underground street food market, due March.
societymanchester.com
ALL DETAILS AND OPENING DATES CORRECT AT TIME OF WRITING BUT SUBJECT TO CHANGE, PLEASE CHECK WITH VENUES.
Le Bab, will combine forces at Locke
apart-hotel. kraftdalston.com
11
menu in the restaurant (£90 a head) and, in what you can to survive.” But he is in a strong Unalome, Glasgow
the pub, banging beers alongside plates of, position. He can add staff as restrictions ease Michelin-hailed Graeme Cheevers
say, venison pastrami with stout mustard: and, hopefully, this spring, will be able to is aiming for the stars. @UnalomebyGC
12
“I’m a big believer in utilising whole animals.
If we’ve got sirloin on in the restaurant, we’ll
welcome diners into Heft’s fell-side gardens. Le Bar des Prés, Mayfair
Personally, he cannot wait: “I want to get back Star French chef, Cyril Lignac,
use the shin and shoulder in the pub, in a in, doing what I love.”
clever way.” Kevin is cautious – further hopes to open an outpost of his Japanese-
lockdown would mean reviving his Heft at Plates £4-£9; French restaurant in March. cyrillignac.com
Home meals or selling beer online: “You do hefthighnewton.co.uk
LE ry
Time is
precious
So relax with our low and slow
lamb hot pot, braised ox cheeks
and apple steamed sponge
Healthy, clever
midweek meals
Veggie stars from
Anna Jones
O’s Easter
supermarket
awards
WEEKEND Buy the best chocolate eggs
MENU and hot cross buns
Ricotta
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH
1 Mortadella
The world outside of Emilia-Romagna (the region of
which Bologna is capital) seems divided between those who
love mortadella (the giant, emulsified, decadently fatty sausage),
those who detest it, and those who can’t eat it for religious
reasons. In Bologna, the debate is restricted to which the finest
mortadella is. Bolognese cuisine is brutally rich and delicious –
rich eggy pastas, creamy and buttery sauces, myriad cheeses,
breads fried in lard. Emilian products are Italian food’s greatest
successes – parma ham, parmesan and balsamic vinegar
have conquered the world and rigorously upheld their standards,
whereas mortadella has wheedled its way into national cuisines –
in America, every deli counter has ‘bologna’ or ‘baloney’, and in
South Africa, ‘polony’. The original is fine-textured, silky, delicate
and nutmeg-scented, studded with fat from the jowl, and emerald
pistachios. Sliced thin into sandwiches, with crescentine or in
piadine – or cut into generous cubes to snack on, it is a revelation.
Try it at Salumeria Simoni in the old market, Mercato di Mezzo.
drinking a darker rosé). If served properly, you will not drink mixture of younger beef and pork, a lot of dairy, white wine and
lambrusco from glasses but fojete – small ceramic bowls – and much less tomato. This last results in a pinker sauce, as opposed to
somehow lambrusco tastes (even) better in them. the enveloping red of bol. While it is possible other pastas might
sometimes be offered with ragu, if you’re a purist it should be
3 Piadine
Piadine are Italian flatbreads, from Emilia-Romagna and
eaten only with tagliatelle or in lasagne.
that will see you through till you have another one at lunch. through a press directly into boiling broth or water – a delicious
reminder that pasta is, in fact, a species of dumpling. Tortellini
4 Aperitivo
Bologna’s university is the oldest in the world, a place of
learning since 1088. The energy of its students underpins what
are the height of the art of fine pasta: egg dough rolled by hand
until almost transparent, cut into tiny squares, filled with morsels
of pork, prosciutto, mortadella, parmesan and nutmeg. It is okay
could otherwise be a town of the old – in what is certainly a very to have parmesan on pasta in broth – and also to have pasta in
old place (one of the largest surviving medieval cities). Students broth before, instead of or after another course of pasta. The
worldwide are united, above all, by their poverty, sense of fun and general aim in Emilia-Romagna might be to have two courses
appetite for drink. The aperitivo – giant fishbowl glasses of lurid of pasta at each meal, as it is such a focus of the cuisine.
spritz, accompanied by little plates of starchy nibbles or groaning
banquet tables (depending on your budget) – is perfect student
fodder. Aperitivo time (evening, before dinner), is not to be missed. 7 Golden tagliatelle and lasagne verdi
The established philosophy, in Bologna at least, is that ragu
must be served on egg pasta, and that egg pasta should be rolled
5 Ragu bolognese
Bologna is the capital of egg pasta – and ragu bolognese,
the source of eponymous bol (from the English spag bol). Ragu
by hand. In Bologna’s chamber of commerce, on Piazza della
Mercanzia, you will find a solid gold tagliatelle, the unit against
which all other tagliatelle can be judged. The key dimension is a
bolognese is the forefather of bol – and they do share a basic width of 7mm. Essential to serving pasta, across Italy, is that it is
identity of being a braised tomatoey meat sauce intended for pasta with sauce so that you can still taste the pasta. This is
pasta. But there are differences – the original is made with a particularly important with tagliatelle al ragu – it takes a small
Crescentine fritti 1 To make the crescentine, warm 2 tbsp of the lard in the milk until
it just melts. Allow it to cool until tepid, then dissolve the yeast in
the milk. Mix the flour with 1 tsp of salt, then add the milk and
45 MINUTES + RISING | SERVES 4 | EASY
knead to a supple dough.
2 Leave the dough to rise, covered, until doubled in size. Roll
lard 500g
it out on a floured worksurface to 6mm thick and cut into 8cm
milk 150ml
x 11cm diamonds. You need four, but the recipe is enough for
fast-action dried yeast 1 tsp
five. Allow these to prove a second time for an hour at room
‘00’ or plain flour 250g
temperature or for between six to 24 hours in the fridge, until
squacquerone, stracchino, stracciatella, burrata, curd cheese
risen to double their height.
or ricotta 250g
3 When you are ready to eat, fry the crescentine – they must be
thinly sliced prosciutto, culatello, coppa or mortadella 200g
served piping hot and crisp from the pan. Heat the remaining lard
in a wide, deep pan over a medium heat to 170C or until a cube of
bread browns in 40 seconds, at a depth of about 21/2cm. Before
you fry the crescentine, pull each lengthways and crossways to
increase by about a third in length – this makes them the right size
but also stretches out the bubbles making them puff up more
consistently. Lower them carefully, flat, into the hot fat. Do not
crowd the pan – you will probably need to cook them one at a
time. Fry the crescentine for 2 minutes on each side, until golden
and puffed.
4 Arrange the crescentines either on individual plates or together
on a platter or board to share from. This is a homely dish, and
does not stand on ceremony, other than to pop the cork of a
carefully selected and well-chilled sparkling lambrusco.
5 days
from
£1,399
River Cottage
pp
Price includes:
Lunch and all activities
culinary tour
at River Cottage.
Talk and Q&A with Hugh
Fearnley-Whittingstall.
Four nights’ b&b at the
Castle Hotel, Taunton.
Welcome dinner at
the hotel with welcome
Experience the best of Somerset and Dorset drink and wine.
Dinner and tour at
produce with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Hestercombe Gardens.
Visit to Yeo Valley Gardens.
on this special foodie tour of the South West Tour of Hauser & Wirth
gardens and gallery visits.
Trip to Lyme Regis and
On this exclusive foodie tour, which will take place cook over a wood fire and how to prepare some of the Jurassic Coast.
from 30 August-3 September 2021, you’ll sample River Cottage’s favourite dishes. You will also enjoy Tour of the Furleigh Estate.
the very best of Somerset and Dorset, including a two-course lunch prepared by the team. Services of an experienced
seasonal produce from the organic, edible gardens Glorious gardens You will visit the Piet Oudolf-designed and knowledgeable tour
of Yeo Valley, and the acclaimed vineyards of Furleigh gardens at the Hauser & Wirth gallery, which resemble manager throughout.
Estate, as well as a day to remember with TV chef impressionist paintings. Then it’s on to Hestercombe All transport during
and food campaigner Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall to visit the magnificent gardens that have been the tour.
at his beloved River Cottage. restored to Gertrude Jekyll’s original design.
Dinner at Hestercombe Cap off a wonderful visit to For more details, visit
ol.tripsmiths.com/
Highlights
Hestercombe with a welcome reception and three-
course farewell dinner with wine in this magnificent rivercottage
Meet Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall The popular TV Grade I listed house.
presenter and ethical food campaigner will join you Yeo Valley organic gardens If you are looking for Our travel partner
for tea at River Cottage, where he will give a talk and inspiration for your own garden, then look no further TS Tours Ltd specialises
answer any of your questions over afternoon tea. than the six-and-a-half acres of ornamental and edible in bespoke and expert-led
Experience River Cottage Ever since Hugh’s River plants of this vibrant patchwork of flora. tours and is working in
Cottage graced TV screens some 21 years ago, it has Heritage hotel Parts of the four-star Castle Hotel in partnership with Travel
become known as a perfect Dorset idyll. You will Taunton are more than 1,000 years old, making it one Editions, which operates
spend a full day here enjoying some very special of the UK’s most historic hotels. It’s been run by the escorted tours in the UK
experiences as you delve behind the scenes of this Chapman family for more than 60 years, so you’re and Europe.
beautiful cottage, including learning to forage, how to sure of a warm welcome.
Tasmania
From fresh-off-the-boat seafood
to award-wining wine and fragrant
indigenous honey, try a taste of this
unique Australian island at home
Words and recipes ANALIESE GREGORY
Photographs ADAM GIBSON
discover cook like a local
A tiny but wild island-o�-an-island at the end of the Pickled mussels and octopus
world. The last stop between Australia and Antarctica,
Tasmania is a pristine wilderness abounding in natural with XO aïoli
beauty and ingredients with a purity of �avour. From the 25 MINUTES + PICKLING | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY | GF
abalone (large sea snails) that pepper the whole coastline, mussels 20, cleaned
to oysters, mussels, sea urchins, fresh seaweed and rock white wine vinegar 100ml
lobsters, the seafood options are ingrained in the eating caster sugar 50g
octopus 150g, cleaned
culture of the island. Wild local game and bush food plants, chives º a bunch, finely chopped
part of the indigenous diet, are in abundance, too. dill º a bunch, finely chopped
turnips 2 small, thinly sliced
Another taste of Tasmania is leatherwood honey. Unique olive oil 2 tbsp
to the island, it comes from a rainforest plant that �owers XO AÏOLI
egg yolks 2
for just six to eight weeks of the year. The �avour has been white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
described as a taste of the Australian bush after it rains: lemon juice 1 tbsp
dijon mustard 1 tbsp
buttery, creamy and distinctive. garlic 1 clove, crushed
This is also a place of farmers’ markets, oyster shacks, cult grapeseed oil 130ml
�sh ’n’ chip shops, food festivals, distilleries and vineyards. olive oil 130ml
XO sauce 40g
Tasmanian wine is particularly hot right now – House of
Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged 2004 was named best 1 Wash the mussels, then steam until just opened. Tip into a
bowl to collect the juices. Heat 150ml of water in a pan with the
sparkling wine in the world in Decanter’s Wine of the Year vinegar and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Leave to cool
2020 tasting. The island is cooled by the Southern Ocean, a little until just warm, then pour over the mussels and chill.
(Eat the mussels on the day of pickling, if you can. They do keep,
making ideal growing conditions for classic sparkling wine but the pickle will continue to firm the mussels up over time.)
grapes such as pinot noir and chardonnay. Production is 2 Fry or chargrill the octopus over a medium heat for 3 minutes
small but there are some great bottles to try (see page 76). or until just cooked, then slice thinly. In a bowl, combine the
octopus, mussels, herbs, turnips and olive oil, then mix.
3 To make the aïoli, put the egg yolks, vinegar, lemon juice,
mustard and garlic in a blender. Blend until smooth then, with the
blender running on low, pour in the two oils in very thin streams,
the flav r o leatherw allowing the aïoli to emulsify. Mix in the XO sauce and check
for seasoning. Spoon some aïoli into the base of a large bowl.
ho ey has b n describ d as Top with the pickled seafood and herbs.
A taste of Tasmania
House of Arras
Brut Elite
£34.99,
majestic.co.uk
From the same
producer as
the Decanter
winner, but
much more
affordable.
Jansz
Premium
Cuvée NV
£17.99,
Waitrose
I love the flavour that these airy madeleines macadamia and mulberry fruit flavours
and a creamy
absorb from intense honey – both manuka and finish.
leatherwood would work well. You will need a 1 HOUR + COOLING | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
EASY | V GF
madeleine mould. Serve with shop-bought apricot Devil’s Corner
jam if you can’t find fresh apricots. Pinot Noir
golden beetroots 3 medium, trimmed £15.49,
purple beetroots 3 medium, trimmed
45 MINUTES + COOLING | MAKES 24 | EASY rannochscott.
fine salt 700g co.uk
egg whites 75g (about 3) Ripe plum and
butter 170g, plus extra for the moulds
raw macadamia nuts 150g cherry flavours
eggs 3
lemon Ω, juiced with a hint of
manuka, leatherwood or other honey 185g
garlic 1 clove spice.
plain flour 160g
olive oil 100ml
baking powder º tsp
mulberries or blackberries 8, halved
soured cream to serve
TO SERVE
APRICOT JAM
sherry vinegar 40ml Leatherwood
apricots 250g, stoned and roughly diced
tarragon leaves 20 (optional) honey, £4.95,
manuka, leatherwood or other honey 50g
bottarga (salted, cured mullet roe) optional harveynichols.
1 Melt the butter in a small pan and let it cool to room com
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180/gas 6. Arrange the beets A golden-yellow
temperature.
on a tray lined with baking paper. Mix the salt and egg honey, smooth and buttery
2 In a stand mixer, whisk the eggs and honey for
whites until completely combined. Mould the mixture in texture with an intense
10 minutes until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl,
around each beetroot then put in the oven and bake for perfume and a clean, lightly
sift together the dry ingredients with 1/4 tsp of salt,
50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middles spiced flavour.
then add them to the egg mixture and fold by hand.
meets no resistance. Cool a little.
Once incorporated, gently fold in the cooled melted
2 In a blender, combine the macadamias, 160ml of water
butter. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.
and the lemon juice, then grate in the garlic. Blend on
3 To make the jam, combine the apricot flesh with
high for 5 minutes until as smooth as possible. With the
2Ω tbsp of water and the honey in a pan, then cook
blender running, pour in 40ml of the olive oil and let it
over a medium heat for 10 minutes or until a jammy
emulsify. Season with salt.
consistency is reached.
3 Break away the salt layers and peel the beetroots, Recipes
4 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Butter a extracted
discarding the peels, stalks and salt. Cut the yellow beets
madeleine mould with a pastry brush. I use a 12-cake
into Ωcm slices and halve or quarter the purple beets. from
non-stick metal one – the old copper moulds are
4 Spoon the sauce onto a plate. Fan out the yellow How Wild
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS: KATE HAWKINGS
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urb n v ntage
Rosie Birkett’s characterful north London
kitchen cleverly combines bespoke �ttings
with quirky upcycled accessories
“my hap iest times in my kitchen are rauco s din er parties (in the days w en w
co ld hav tho e) aro nd the lo g erco tab e w en the w ne do sn’t sto flo ng”
“As a cookbook author, food writer and recipe “For five years we lived with a kitchen which was and under the units – I love how the tiles are
developer, I need a kitchen that can double up not to my taste at all. Eventually we saved up slightly different shapes and thicknesses.
as a workspace and studio. Ours does just that. enough to redesign it but were reluctant to rip it “Carrara marble worktops were non-negotiable.
“I live here with my husband Jamie and our out as it was perfectly serviceable. I considered I love the feel and heft of marble, and its coolness
whippet, Cyril. Our flat is in north-east London, replacing the units but Kiri’s Spray Shop, a brilliant means it’s so good for prepping pastry.
right beside Walthamstow Marshes and the River man in Wood Green, persuaded me to spray the “With the help of Ben Wheeler
Lea, as well as being close to east London’s exisiting ones instead. I wanted a very specific (@deringrestoration), we converted the small
amazing food and independent retail scene. forest green with a teal edge, that looks different in utility room into my dream pantry. It uses the full
“We moved from a tiny basement flat and were different lights, so I mixed the exact shade myself ceiling height for bespoke, limed oak shelves, and
blown away by the soaring ceilings and natural – Kiri then colour-matched it. The unit handles are has sturdy handmade shaker units.
light from the glass atrium. The downstairs antique brass and come from Yester Home. “Carefully chosen light fittings have the power
revolves around the kitchen. I love to cook for “Because the space is so white and modern, to finish a space. I found a modernist Sputnik-
family and friends but I definitely get a fear of I wanted to introduce more rustic textures and esque design with multiple lamps for the
missing out if I’m shut away in a separate room colour through tiling. There are Moroccan zellige kitchen. Lights both complement the space and
– thankfully that isn’t an issue with this space. tiles in pearly pink for a splashback behind the sink bring character.”
4
6 9
ve O
Book in
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17 - 20 June 2021 | NEC Birmingham
MERINGUE
egg whites 4
caster sugar 140g
cornflour Ω tsp
white wine vinegar Ω tsp
TO SERVE
black or morello cherries 400g tin
cherry liqueur 2-3 tbsp
cornflour 1 tbsp
crème fraîche 6-8 tbsp
dark chocolate ice cream 6-8 scoops
dark chocolate shavings a handful (optional)
Cheese soufflé
You will need four 200ml ovenproof ceramic ramekins 4 Stir in the cayenne, pepper or nutmeg, and both the cheeses.
for this recipe. Stir briefly to melt the cheeses, season generously with salt, then
remove from the heat. Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in the
30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY egg yolks.
5 Put the egg whites in a clean metal or glass bowl. Add the
unsalted butter 30g, plus extra for the ramekins vinegar and whisk with an electric whisk or in a stand mixer until
parmesan 25g, finely grated, plus 2 tbsp stiff peaks form.
plain flour 30g 6 Add a dollop of the egg whites into the white sauce and stir
whole milk 300ml to combine. This will loosen the sauce and make it easier to
cayenne pepper, white pepper or grated nutmeg a pinch incorporate the rest of the egg whites without losing too much air.
gruyère 50g, finely grated 7 Add the remaining egg whites and, using the side of a large
eggs 4 large, separated spoon or spatula, carefully fold into the bowl, until just
white wine vinegar 1/4 tsp incorporated into a light yellow foam. Divide between the
ramekins, filling them no more than three-quarters full.
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 with a baking tray inside. 8 Using the tip of a cutlery knife, swipe around the insides of the
2 Generously butter the ramekins. Divide 2 tbsp of finely grated ramekins. Transfer to the oven on the heated baking tray. Cook
parmesan between the ramekins and shake them to get the for 10-12 minutes or until they are well risen, golden topped and
cheese to stick to the butter. Tip out any excess. have a slight wobble when picked up. Serve immediately.
3 Melt the butter in a heavy-based medium pan over a low heat,
then sprinkle in the flour. Mix well to form a thick paste. Cook for PER SERVING 324 kcals | fat 23.1G
1 minute until the paste starts to smell nutty, then add the milk, saturates 12.6G | carbs 9.2G | sugars 3.6G
a splash at a time, stirring continuously, to make a smooth, very fibre 0.4G | protein 19.6G | salt 0.8G
thick white sauce.
STYLING: AMY KINNEAR. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
co ’s no s
The vinegar (or any acid) helps to prevent over-whisking the egg Omagazine.com
whites, turning them clumpy or dry. It can still happen though, • Once you’ve mastered this classic technique, try making our
so stop when you’re happy with the lift on the peaks. Folding in easy stilton soufflés or crowd-pleasing twice-baked goat’s
the egg whites requires a cutting, rolling motion. Never stir once
cheese soufflés.
the slackening spoonful has been added. The air trapped in the
• Or try an irresistible sweet recipe: chocolate soufflé with hot
mixture will expand when it gets hot and increase the volume of
the batter to create the soufflé's classic rise. chocolate sauce or pistachio and white chocolate soufflé.
the ro x
A panade – or very thick roux – is enriched with cheese and ‘to hat ng’
eggs to form the flavour profile of the soufflé. In sweet Running a knife or finger around the edge of the
soufflés it is usually crème pâtissière based. ramekin before cooking ensures the surface of the
soufflé doesn’t stick to the ramekin, encouraging
it to rise evenly, and as much as possible.
seaso ing
Strong cheese and plenty of salt in the panade add loads of
flavour. It must be well seasoned, as egg whites ‘dilute’ it.
the dishes
Try to use heatproof porcelain dishes or glass
ramekins, and avoid any metal ones. Don’t overfill
them – you want that sky-high rise, but adding too
much can mean the soufflés spill over when cooking.
the o n
Don’t open the oven door before the timer has
gone off. You need the consistent heat in the
oven to ensure they don’t sink back down.
bu ma
used whole but are also
pounded into a powder to
be used in salads, soups
and dips. You can buy from
most Asian supermarkets
on the O podcast
and online.
Chana dal
Chana
dal are the
insides of
chickpeas
Burmese cuisine from Emily of umami. You mix it with fresh cabbage and crunchy,
crispy beans, garlic and nuts. And then add lime, chilli
In Burma they have a
multitude of uses including
and Amy Chung, otherwise and garlic oil, and you can add a bit of tomato as well. being deep-fried to make pe
So it’s kind of fresh and you get the caffeine hit from kyaw (crispy crackers) for
known as The Rangoon Sisters the tea. We usually have it every supper club and people mohinga (see left), as well
as being made into dahl.
are really surprised by it because, to be honest, the
A typical Burmese spread appearance of just the pickled tea is not necessarily the Rice flour
“There’ll be lots of dishes, all set out on a table most beautiful thing because it’s gone a bit dark and Made from
together so you’re all eating at the same time. You mulchy. But when you combine it in the salad, it’s really finely ground
would have a selection of curries, so that could be delicious. After they’ve tasted it, people have said it rice, this
meat or fish and seafood curries. You’d also have reminds them of a pesto or cheese.” gluten-free
these epic Burmese salads on the table – you might flour has a wide range of
have a lahpet (tea leaf salad, pictured above) or you Mohinga uses across the whole of
Asia, from making noodles,
could have an aubergine salad – you would always have “It’s the national dish of Burma, so you find it
dosas and hoppers to being
lots of rice alongside that. You’ll also probably have a everywhere, all across the country. You get a bowl
used as a thickener. We use
very clear, brothy soup, quite a simple one, so you have with rice vermicelli noodles on the bottom and then
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22 Cauliflower bhajis V
Vegetables
49 Beetroot spaghetti with dolcelatte, walnuts and chard V
72 Crescentine fritti
36 Broken lasagne and white bean soup V LC 4
75 Pickled mussels and octopus with XO aïoli GF
23 Cauliflower and broccoli soup V LC 4
57 Potato gems, buttermilk roe GF
23 Cauliflower, walnut and apple salad V LC GF
76 Salt-baked beetroot with macadamia and mulberry V GF
53 Gochujang buttered cauliflower with quick pickles V
59 Sunny side cocktail
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Beef stew and flour and roll again to neaten. Nestle into the
top of the stew. Return to the oven, uncovered,
dumplings for 30 minutes until the dumplings are cooked
through and golden. Serve scattered with more