Edin Fatkić,

*Jelka Geršak,
Influence of Knitting Parameters
**Darko Ujević on the Mechanical Properties of Plain
Jersey Weft Knitted Fabrics
University of Bihac, Abstract
Faculty of Technical Engineering, The contribution deals with the influence of selected knitting parameters and the relax-
Bihać, Bosnia and Herzegovina ation period on the structure and mechanical properties of plain jersey weft knitted fabrics
made of cotton and elastane yarns. There are considerable differences in the behaviour
*University of Maribor, of conventional knitted fabrics and fabrics with elastane yarns incorporated in the struc-
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering,
ture. Since one of the key factors in knitting is certainly the knitting yarn feeding load - it
Maribor, Slovenia impacts the structure and properties of such knitted fabrics, the contribution presents the
**University of Zagreb, influence of the knitting yarn feeding load on the alteration in the mechanical properties of
Faculty of Textile Technology, plain jersey weft knitted fabrics. The results of the investigation indicate that the horizontal
Zagreb, Croatia and vertical density and the fabric weight grow with a prolonged relaxation period and
E-mail: [email protected] increase in the knitting yarn feeding load. Increasing the knitting yarn feeding load reduces
the length of yarn in the loop. If cotton yarn is platted with elastane yarn, the length of the
yarn in the loop is reduced by about 2 to 5%, as compared with yarn in a course without
elastane yarn. The most prominent dimensional changes in the course and wales direction
occurred for samples knitted with the highest feeding load of yarns. The best results of mea-
suring structural parameters and dimensional changes in knitted fabrics during relaxation
were exhibited by knitted samples with the lowest feeding load. Therefore, the feeding load
of yarns should be taken into account when constructing knitted fabrics as it considerably
affects fabric properties.

Key words: knitted fabric, elastane yarn, feeding load, relaxation, mechanical properties.

contours, providing transpiration as well. structures, the most important of them

Elastane yarns, which are incorporated certainly being the yarn pre-tension and
into knitted fabrics in various propor- resp. knitting yarn feeding load.
tions, have enabled these properties to be
enhanced. Such knitted products exhibit This opens the way to investigations of
extraordinary stretchability and elastic- the impact of the knitting yarn feeding
ity, are dimensionally stable in wearing load on knitted fabric properties. There-
and care, and have become quite popular fore the aim of this research was to dis-
in the market. There are considerable dif- cover regularities and to find the optimal
ferences in the behaviour of conventional feeding load of yarns to result in minimal
knitted fabrics and knitted fabrics with dimensional changes, thereby ensuring
elasthane yarns incorporated. the stability of the structure constructed,
and proper mechanical properties of the
In the literature, some authors have con- knitted fabric in question.
ducted research into the relation between
the rate of elastane and selected fabric
properties, such as extensibility and re-
Selected rheological
laxation [1 - 4]. Some researches describe
phenomena in fibres and yarns
the relation between the knitting param- During the knitting process, the yarn is
eters and mechanical properties of knit- exposed to tension. The tension, occur-
wear [5, 7]. Other studies focused on in- ring in the fabric by loads and resulting
vestigating the relation between elastane in fabric deformations, is a time-related
consumption and fabric dimensional and property. When fabrics are exposed to
elastic behaviour characteristics [8]. The constant loads, the overall deformation
authors found that the amount of elastane grows with the time of loading. The phe-
has a significant effect on the dimension- nomenon is called creep. When the load
al and elastic properties of cotton/Lycra is removed, a part of the deformation is
plated plain knitted fabric. However, the reduced (elastic deformation), a part dis-
relation between knitting parameters and appears at the moment of removing the
mechanical properties has not been stud- load (residual elastic deformation), and
ied enough in literature. Knitters usually a part remains as a permanent deforma-
n Introduction use experience gained during machine tion that cannot be corrected. If the load-
Knitted fabrics have a structure which adjustments in order to obtain the fabric ing lasts for some time, the fibre, or yarn,
offers the stretchability and elasticity of characteristic required. Knitting is a com- recovers after the load is removed at the
knitwear. These advantages make knit- plex dynamic process, and a number of value of the initial elastic deformation. A
wear comfortable and fit well to body factors impact the manufacture of knitted part of the deformation disappears after

Fatkić E., Geršak J., Ujević D.; Influence of Knitting Parameters on the Mechanical Properties of Plain Jersey Weft Knitted Fabrics. 87
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88) pp. 87-91.
Table 1. Basic characteristics of the yarns. W1 – width of the fabric before relaxa-
tion, cm
Characteristics Kind of yarn
analysed
Unit Standard concerned W2 – width of the fabric after relaxa-
Cotton yarn Elastane yarn
tion, cm.
ISO 2060 [13];
Linear density Tt tex 16.8 3.5
ASTM D2591-07 [14] 830-4
Twist Tm t.p.m. ISO 2061 [15] 916 - The relaxation level in the direction of
Breaking force Fb cN ISO 2062 [16] 190.9 48.0 wales RLl can be calculated using equa-
Extension at break εb % ISO 2062 [16] 4.1 512.1 tion [12]:
Breaking tenacity σs cN/tex 11.4 13.7
L1 − L2
LRLl l =
R ⋅ 100 (2)
L1
some time, while some of it remains as stitch length and yarn tension during the
permanent deformation and cannot be knitting process. where:
recovered. This recovery, related to the RLl – relaxation of the fabric in the di-
rection of wales, %
initial elastic deformation, is called total Behaviour of the fabric L1 – length of the fabric before relaxa-
relaxation, while the recovery that de- in relaxation tion, cm
pends upon time is called partial relaxa-
The properties and behaviour of knitted L2 – length of the fabric after relaxa-
tion [9]. During the relaxation process,
fabric can be partially predicted and pre- tion, cm.
the loops change their form for a certain
period until an equilibrium state with determined through the fabric construc-
minimal energy is reached. The relaxa- tion. To achieve optimum parameters of a n Methodology
tion period depends, above all, on the fi- knitted fabric structure, it is necessary to
optimise the yarn input tension. The low- To investigate the impact of knitting
bre material, density and construction of
er the strain in the yarn, the sooner the yarn pre-tension and the resp. feeding
the knitted fabric, as well as on the mag-
fabric will reach equilibrium with a mini- load upon the structure and relaxation of
nitude of forces acting on the fabric dur- knitted fabric, specific samples of plain
ing the knitting process. Moreover, outer mum of potential energy [6]. The strains
on the yarn occur in the knitting zone and jersey weft knitted fabric were manu-
parameters, such as temperature, relative factured. The main characteristics of
air humidity and pressure have a certain can be up to ten times higher than those at
the entrance to the knitting system, which the yarn used are given in Table 1. The
influence on fabric relaxation. knitted samples were constructed before
can be reduced by waxing the yarn. The
they were manufactured, for which the
Various theoretical and experimental resultant deformation depends upon the
platting knitting technique was used,
studies have been undertaken to identify resistance of the yarn to the traction
in which elastane yarn was fed parallel
the physics of the phenomena of elasticity force, which acts upon the moving part of
with the base cotton yarn. Platting with
changes in knitted fabrics and the mean- the yarn in knitting. The resistance of the
elastane yarn was carried out in every
ing of the relaxation parameters of knit- yarn to the loads depends upon its vis-
second course in such a way that the cot-
ted fabrics. The importance of the elastic- coelastic properties. Since elastane yarns ton yarn was covered by elastane yarn,
ity changes and relaxation parameters of exhibit a lower elasticity modulus, they shown in Figure 1. The samples were
knitted fabric was emphasised by D. L. offer lower resistance to the loads occur- manufactured using a Relanit SE ma-
Munden [10]. D. L. Munden conducted ring in knitting [2, 10]. chine, made by Mayer & Cie E 28, with
an experimental study showing that plain a sinking depth of 10, and using differ-
knitted fabric dimensional changes are A higher tension of elastane yarns causes ent feeding loads of the yarns, shown
due to dimensional changes in the loop. them to contract, which impacts changes in Table 2. The feeding load of both
T. Pusch et al. [11] proposed a theoretical in the knitted fabric structure, possibly cotton and elastane yarn was measured
model showing the relationship between resulting in horizontal streaks. A higher and controlled using tension measuring
yarn tension also causes higher elastic re- equipment produced by Schmidt Con-
covery in the knitting zone, which means trol Instrument. The measuring scale
Cotton Elastane
Elastane
the formation of shorter loops, as com- was calibrated up to 50 cN. Knitting was
yarn
yarn yarn pared to the loop lengths constructed. In performed at temperature T = 22 °C and
the course of relaxation, the loop shape relative humidity R = 62%. After com-
is changed. Further dimensional chang-
es can be expected in the technological Table 2. Feeding load of the knitting yarn.
process and end use, providing the fabric
Sample Yarn feeding load Fp, cN
has not been exposed to the relaxation re- type Cotton yarn Elastane yarn
quired. The relaxation level in the direc- A1 2
tion of courses RLw is calculated by the A2 3 3
following expression [12]: A3 4
B1 2
W1 − W2
L ww =
R
RL ⋅ 100 (1) B2 5 3
W1 B3 4
where: C1 2

RLw – relaxation of the fabric in the di- C2 8 3

Figure 1. Knitted fabric with platted elas-
C3 4
tane yarn in every second course. rection of courses, %

88 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88)
pletion of the knitting process, the fabric Table 3. Relaxation degree of knitted fabrics depending on the relaxation period.
was carefully removed from the machine
Knitwear state after the
and put on a flat surface in an air-condi- Sample Relaxation
type degree, % 1st day 2nd day 5th day 10th day 15th day 20th day
tioned chamber in order to carry out the
relaxation process under standardised RLw 2.92 3.08 3.67 4.00 4.33 4.50
A1
RLl 1.08 1.17 1.67 2.25 2.33 2.67
climatic conditions i.e. at temperature
RLw 2.92 3.33 4.17 4.25 4.25 4.50
20 ± 2 °C and relative humidity 65 ± 2%. A2
RLl 1.33 1.67 2.17 2.67 2.59 2.83
RLw 3.42 3.58 4.25 5.00 5.17 5.92
The present research on the structural A3
RLl 1.67 2.00 2.25 2.75 2.92 3.08
parameters of the knitted fabrics pro- RLw 3.08 3.42 4.25 4.75 5.08 5.58
duced i.e. horizontal Dh and vertical B1
RLl 2.58 2.50 3.25 3.50 3.33 3.17
density Dv and mass per unit area was RLw 4.58 4.75 5.50 5.92 5.75 6.00
B2
done according to Standards DIN 53883 RLl 2.00 2.50 3.00 3.25 3.17 3.30
[17] and DIN 53884 [18] . The tightness RLw 4.67 4.50 5.33 5.58 5.67 5.67
B3
factor K was calculated using primary RLl 2.33 2.25 3.58 3.50 3.50 4.17
structural parameters. The average yarn C1
RLw 3.92 4.50 5.08 5.75 5.83 6.17
length in the loop was measured for 100 RLl 2.60 2.00 3.00 3.25 3.25 3.42
loops after 24 hours on the 10th and 20th C2
RLw 4.08 4.00 4.83 5.42 5.67 5.75
day of fabric relaxation, with a pre-load RLl 2.25 2.33 3.08 3.33 3.50 3.58
RLw 6.00 6.17 6.75 7.08 7.08 7.25
of around 0.5 cN tex-1. The relaxation C3
RLl 3.33 4.08 4.58 4.17 4.92 5.25
level of the knitted fabrics produced,
depending on the relaxation period, was
determined on the basis of the distance fifth, tenth, fifteenth and twentieth day ties of knitted fabrics, the mechanical
between control points in the course of fabric relaxation. To study the influ- properties of the samples analysed were
and wale directions. The measurements ence of the knitting yarn feeding load on determined using the KES-FB AUTO
were repeated after the first, second, the alteration of the mechanical proper- measuring system [19].

a)

b)

c)

Figure 2. Horizontal Dh and vertical density Dv of knitted fabrics depending on the relaxation period. a) cotton yarn feeding load
Fp = 3 cN, b) cotton yarn feeding load Fp = 5 cN, c) cotton yarn feeding load Fp = 8 cN.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88) 89
Table 4. Mechanical properties of the fabrics analysed depending upon the input tension. ure 2.a. The same trend was observed
with samples from series B and C. The
Yarn feeding load Mechanical properties lowest values of Dh and Dv are exhibited
Sample FP, cN
type
Tensile Shear Compression by samples C1, C2 & C3, Figure 2.c.
Cotton Elastane E50 WT RT G 2HG 2HG5 ho RC C
The sample mass per unit area also in-
A1 3 2 31.10 7.95 76.58 0.71 1.67 1.62 1.29 50.27 0.468
creases with a longer relaxation period.
A2 3 3 35.40 9.07 61.62 0.72 2.28 2.13 1.34 39.19 0.512 More prominent changes in the mass per
A3 3 4 35.20 9.32 57.37 0.74 2.28 2.18 1.39 47.86 0.518 unit area were recorded for samples with
B1 5 2 38.40 10.78 52.27 0.75 2.01 1.94 1.23 39.87 0.434 a higher pre-tension and resp. feeding
B2 5 3 33.80 9.46 53.89 0.80 2.18 2.13 1.29 40.14 0.459 load of yarns. The trend of an increasing
B3 5 4 35.10 9.80 54.00 0.74 2.21 2.08 1.30 44.12 0.467 surface mass was also recorded with a
C1 8 2 37.10 10.49 57.28 0.71 2.13 1.98 1.24 40.14 0.455
higher feeding load of elastane yarn and
constant tension of cotton yarn, Figure 3.
C2 8 3 34.80 9.56 52.82 0.78 2.21 2.11 1.25 38.22 0.456
C3 8 4 33.70 9.61 51.53 0.81 2.16 2.11 1.41 32.37 0.505
It can also be seen that the yarn length in a
loop is generally reduced for all the sam-
ples at an increased knitting yarn feed-
ing load. A higher value of the feeding
load of yarn in the knitting zone results
in smaller or bigger yarn deformations,
i.e. its elongation. Thus, a smaller real
length of the yarn (lo + Δl) is entangled in
the loop formation due to yarn deforma-
tion, i.e. its elongation. Due to a higher
immediate elastic recovery, this length is
further reduced, which results in a shorter
loop. It is interesting to note that in the
courses where cotton yarns are accompa-
nied with elastane ones, the yarn length
for cotton loops is reduced as compared
Figure 3. Changes in mass per unit area of the knitted fabrics depending on the relaxation to the courses of elastane yarns, the re-
period. duction being in the order of 2 to 5%,
Table 5. The changes in loop length are
n Results Discussion of the results due to the viscoelastic behaviour of the
obtained elastane yarn, i.e. the resistance to tensile
Mean values of the measuring structural forces acting in the loop formation. Since
parameters of the knitted fabrics produced The results of investigating the structural elastane yarns exhibit a lower elasticity
i.e. the horizontal Dh and vertical density parameters of individual knitted fabrics modulus, they offer lower resistance to
Dv and mass per unit area, depending indicate that the horizontal and vertical loads as well. The difference grows with
upon the time of relaxation, can be seen density rises throughout the entire sam- an increase in the feeding load of elastane
in Figures 2 (see page 89) and 3. Mean ple the longer the period of relaxation, as yarn. The higher the feeding load of elas-
values of fabric relaxation in the course well as with an increasing yarn feeding tane yarn, the more prominent the yarn
direction, Equation 1, and in the wales di- load, Figure 2. With respect to samples deformation is, which means a reduced
rection, Equation 2, calculated depending A1, A2 & A3 , changes in the horizontal length of elastane yarn in the cotton yarn
on the time of relaxation, can be seen in Dh and vertical density Dv increased at a loop. Because of the differences in the
Table 3 (see page 89). Measurement re- higher feeding load of elastane yarn, Fig- length of elastane and cotton yarns in
sults for the mechanical properties of the the loop formation, as well as further re-
knitted fabrics analysed, depending upon duction resulting from the higher elastic
Table 5. Analysis of yarn length in a loop
the input tension and resp. yarn feeding depending upon the feeding load of yarn, recovery of elastane yarn, the friction of
load, are presented in Table 4. yarns occurs, resulting in the longitudinal
Yarn length in a loop compression of the cotton yarn, which in
Sample l, mm Difference
Results of the analysis of yarn length in type ∆l, %
effect reduces the yarn length in the cot-
Cotton Cotton and
a loop of the knitted fabrics analysed as yarn elastane yarn ton yarn loops. It can also be seen that
well as resulting differences related to A1 3.22 3.14 2.50 the tightness factor K increases with a
the loop length of a platted and normal A2 3.20 3.10 3.20 higher feeding load, which was expected,
loop (produced with the cotton yarn), de- A3 3.19 3.06 4.10 Figure 4.
pending on the feeding load of the yarns, B1 3.15 3.09 3.09
are given in Table 5. The impact of the B2 3.13 3.06 3.06 The results obtained indicate that di-
yarn feeding load on the tightness factor B3 3.21 3.04 5.30 mensional changes in the relaxation are
K, representing the relationship between C1 3.17 3.00 5.40 affected by the length of the relaxation
C2 3.18 3.03 4.80
yarn fineness and loop length in the knit- time, as well as by the pre-tension and
C3 3.19 3.03 5.11
ted fabrics analysed, is shown in Figure 5. resp. feeding load of the knitting yarn

90 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88)
 Tightness factor
Figure 4. Tight- with Increased Elasticity«, Tex. Res. J.,
ness factor K as Vol. 76, No. 10, 2006, pp. 742-750.
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13,4
13,3
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13,1 Stretching, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern
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5. Karba M., Geršak J., Stjepanović Z.; Stu-
12,8
12,7
dy of mechanical properties of a knitwear.
12,6
V: XLI Congress of the International
12,5 Federation of Knitting Technologists,
A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 B3 C1 C2 C3
Zagreb, 1-4 October, 2002. Proceedings.
Zagreb: Faculty of Textile Technology,
2002, pp. 122-132.
used, Table 3. The degree of fabric re- increase with a longer relaxation period 6. Karba M., Geršak J., Stjepanović Z.;
The influence of knitting parameters on
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RLl increases with a longer relaxation the process of relaxation, Book of pro-
period, Table 3. The highest relaxation A higher yarn feeding load results in ceedings of the 2nd International Textile,
was recorded for fabrics with the highest reduced yarn length in a loop. If cotton Clothing & Design Conference ITC&DC,
feeding load of the yarn: C1, C2, and C3. yarn is plated with elastane yarn, the yarn October 3rd to October 6th, 2004, Du-
length in a cotton yarn loop is reduced by brovnik, Zagreb: Faculty of Textile Tech-
It is also important to note that the de- nology, University of Zagreb, 2004, pp.
gree of relaxation in the course and wales 2 to 5% compared with that in the course 200-205.
direction increases with a higher pre-ten- without elastane yarn, which can result in 7. Salopek I., Skenderi Z., Geršak J.; Inve-
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Knit Wool Fabrics, 1987.
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for all samples analysed. The shear rigid- before manufacturing in order to ensure – Determination of linear density by the
ity G is also reduced with a higher value of proper physical-mechanical properties skein method, 1994-12-01.
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FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88) 91