How to Buy a Flat-Screen TV

The Big Picture

It's only natural that the supersizing of the American TV over the last decade or
two would eventually spawn some diet programs. A 50-inch HDTV built in the
traditional CRT-based rear-projection television format is a major hog, taking up
a hunk of floor space and weighing 100 pounds. As a result, flat-panel displays
have sprung up as a popular alternative to bulky CRTs.

There are two kinds of flat-screen TVs: plasma and LCD. Both technologies
have made it possible to build very shallow, relatively lightweight TV screens
with large picture areas. Both carry higher prices than their bulkier brethren, as well, although the gap
is narrowing in some cases. But there are differences between plasma and LCD TVs that you should
consider before purchasing one or the other.

Plasma

Virtually all plasma displays are wide-screen designs, meaning they have a 16:9 ratio of screen width
to screen height (also referred to as aspect ratio), which is the standard for HDTV and very close to the
ratio used for most modern movies. This makes them more rectangular than the traditional, almost
square 4:3 displays. With a handful of exceptions, screen sizes start at 42 inches diagonal and range up
to 61 inches. Prices start at slightly less than $2000 and top out at more than $20,000.

You get what you pay for in plasma, which means you can't expect to get the same picture quality from
a $1800 42-inch display that you would from a same-size model selling for $3000, a more typical price.
The budget model will most likely be an enhanced-definition screen rather than high definition and will
have poorer contrast; that translates to a softer picture with less punch and detail.

Even the best plasmas do not quite match the ability of good CRT sets to reproduce deep blacks and
gradations of dark gray. They're close enough now, however, that you probably wouldn't notice except
in a direct comparison. Like CRTs, plasmas use phosphors to generate light, which means they can be
subject to "burn-in." When a static image is left on the screen for a long time (a station logo or a text
banner, for example), it may not completely disappear when the image changes.

This is particularly likely to be an issue if you watch a lot of standard TV programming on a wide-screen
display or play a lot of games with static backgrounds. Fortunately, you can minimize the risk by
keeping contrast and brightness settings reasonable (virtually all TV sets come out of the box with their
contrast, brightness, color, and sharpness controls turned up too high) and by using stretch modes to
fill the screen when you're watching 4:3 programming. In addition, many models now use pixel-shifting
strategies, which continually move the image on the screen in imperceptibly tiny increments to help
prevent burn-in.

Although some plasma displays come with wing speakers that can be attached to the sides, many are
strictly video displays with neither speakers nor any built-in TV tuner. You will need to factor those
additional costs into your budget.

For more information on home theaters and speaker systems, check out "How to Buy an Integrated
Home Theater Audio System."

LCD

LCD screens range from 15-inch models (or sometimes even smaller ones) designed primarily as
computer monitors up to 65-inch wide-screen designs complete with speakers and TV tuners. At screen
sizes less than 42 inches, wide-screen HDTV LCDs have become increasingly price-competitive with
similar-size direct-view CRT sets, though for the most part they still sell at a premium. A 32-inch high-
definition LCD might range in price from about $1000 to $3000 depending on its manufacturer and
features. (A 32-inch wide-screen display has about the same screen height as a 27-inch TV with a
conventional 4:3 aspect ratio.) In screen sizes where LCDs compete directly with plasmas, the LCDs
typically are more expensive, with the gap rising as the screen size increases.

LCDs have lower contrast ratios than plasmas, primarily because they have a harder time reproducing deep
black and dark grays. Plus, they have slower response times. They also tend to be one to several inches
thicker than plasmas and have a narrower effective viewing angle. (Plasmas, like CRTs, are easily viewable
from well off to the side and do not exhibit any change in brightness as you stand up or sit down.) On the
other hand, LCDs are completely immune to burn-in, are easier to view in brightly lit rooms, and more often
include all the standard features of a conventional TV. LCDs also run cooler than plasmas, minimizing the
need for potentially noisy fan cooling. An LCD is a particularly attractive choice in situations where a
plasma would be too large or where you want a display that can serve double duty as a TV set and computer
monitor.

The Specs Explained

Gone are the days when you figured out how big a screen you wanted, looked at some sets, and
bought the one with the best picture that fit your budget. An options explosion has littered the
shopping landscape with numbers, features, and terminology that even experts sometimes have
trouble tracking. So we've tried to boil the choices down to the basics that can actually do you some
good, and we've noted which are important. (In audio and video, never forget that just because
something has a number to describe it doesn't mean it really matters!)

Important: Contrast Ratio

Contrast ratio refers to the brightest and darkest light values a display can produce at the same time.
All else being equal, the higher the contrast ratio is, the better. However, all else is seldom equal.
Pumping up the maximum light output, for example, can increase contrast, but it won't do anything to
overcome poor black level, which tends to be a greater problem with plasmas and, especially, LCDs. So
take contrast ratings as a rough guide to be supplemented by eyes-on evaluation. That said, LCDs tend
to have contrast-ratio specs ranging from about 600:1 to more than 1000:1. Plasmas start at about
1000:1, and many now have contrast ratios of 3000:1 or better.

Important: Aspect Ratio

The aspect ratio describes the relationship of screen width to screen height. Conventional sets have a
4:3 aspect ratio, whereas wide-screen models are 16:9. Wide screens are the future. HDTV is a wide-
screen format, for one thing. For another, DVDs usually look better on wide-screen displays because
nearly every movie made in the last 50 years was filmed in an aspect ratio of either 1.85:1 (very close
to 16:9, which is 1.78:1) or 2.35:1 (even wider than 16:9).

Important: Resolution
Non-CRT displays, such as plasmas and LCDs, are fixed-pixel arrays, which means they have rows and
columns of individual picture elements that turn on and off to produce the necessary patterns of light.
Resolution is specified as the number of pixel columns by the number of pixel rows--640 by 480, for
example, or 1280 by 720. Resolution and, to a somewhat lesser degree, contrast ratio determine
perceived picture detail.
Digital content currently is delivered in one of four formats: 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. The 480i
format is the same as that used for standard analog TV, and when programming originally in 480i is
delivered by digital cable or satellite to your home, it retains that format. DVDs are sometimes
mastered in 480p, but mostly they are 480i; a progressive-scan DVD player can deinterlace 480i DVDs
to create 480p output, however. The 720p and 1080i formats are used by satellite, cable, and over-
the-air-broadcast high-definition content providers, as well as some advanced DVD players that
upconvert 480i and 480p content. When Blu-ray and HD-DVD players come on the market in 2006,
they will play discs that actually carry 720p or 1080i video.
Generally speaking, a display is considered high definition if it is wide screen and has a total pixel count
approaching 1 million. So 1920 by 1080, 1280 by 720, 1366 by 768, and 1024 by 1024 are all
examples of high-definition display resolutions. Small differences are not very consequential at greater
than 1280 by 720, the specified resolution of the 720p high-definition format. Any resolution of 1280
by 720 or greater is best for viewing high-definition broadcast and DVD content, although if you sit
close to a large screen you may prefer one of the new 1920 by 1080 (1080p) displays. Non-HD wide
screen is called enhanced-definition; a typical ED resolution is 852 by 480. Standard-definition, or SD,
includes 640 by 480 and 720 by 480. Enhanced-definition displays are best for 480p content such as
that from progressive-scan DVD players.

Important: Video Inputs

The number and type of video inputs determine which sources you can use with the display.
Composite video: This input type has the lowest quality but the broadest compatibility. Any device that
has video outputs will include composite video among them. Connection is made with a single 75-ohm
coaxial cable between RCA jacks.
S-Video: S-Video offers better quality than composite video, and most video sources except standard
VCRs now have S-Video outputs. Connection is made with a special cable and multipin sockets.
Component video: This high-quality option is the minimum standard for connecting HDTV tuners and
progressive-scan DVD players. It requires three 75-ohm coaxial cables of the same type used for
composite video.
RGB+H/V: This is another high-quality input type. An analog red-green-blue horizontal/vertical
connection is sometimes used instead of component video. This input requires five 75-ohm coaxial
cables of the same type used for composite video.
VGA: Video graphics array is a high-quality analog RGB connection used for computer connections and
sometimes in place of RGB+H/V.
DVI: This is one of the highest-quality types of inputs. Digital visual interface is a digital RGB
connection, commonly used for HDTV tuners and occasionally for DVD players; it may also be used for
computer connections. Requires a special cable and multipin sockets. Some displays with a DVI input
may work only with computers, so watch out for that if you plan to connect an HDTV tuner. Another
thing you need for guaranteed HDTV compatibility is compliance with the HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital
Content Protection) system.
HDMI: Also of the highest quality, High-Definition Multimedia Interface is basically DVI plus a digital
audio link and HDCP; it can be mated to DVI with adapter cables. This connection is used on some
HDTV tuners and upconverting DVD players, and it will be the standard video connector for Blu-ray and
HD-DVD players.

Minor: Comb Filter Type

Comb filters are necessary in analog TV to separate color and luminance information without losing too
much detail, but that's not an issue in HDTV. The only time the comb filter comes into play is for analog
TV reception or any signal coming in via a composite video connection. For all other connections, it's
out of the loop. Plus, the comb filters in all but budget CRT TVs are routinely very good these days.

Flat-Screen TV Shopping Tips

Flat-out ready to buy? Here are key points to consider before you make the big commitment.

Consider the alternatives: If you can live with a tabletop set that's 16 to 18 inches deep rather than
4 to 7, LCD and DLP (digital light-processing) rear-projection sets can deliver performance approaching
or exceeding that of plasmas in similar screen sizes and at lower prices. You just don't hear about them
as much because they're not as sexy.

To learn about other big-screen TV options, check out "How to Buy a Rear-Projection TV."

Think HDMI: If at all possible, you should get a set with an HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia
Interface) or HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection)-compliant DVI input. This will ensure
full compatibility with HDTV tuners and future high-definition DVD players.

Compare displays using a variety of material: Just about any flat-panel display will handle HDTV
and DVD signals well, but mediocre cable and satellite signals will give some of them fits. Don't make a
buying decision based solely on pictures generated from pristine sources.
Look for good blacks: When you're comparison shopping, bring along a DVD of a movie containing
some dimly lit night scenes. Use it to check for good black reproduction and ability to render detail in
near-darkness.

Get to know the remote: A good remote can be your best friend, a bad remote your worst enemy.
(Well, okay, we're exaggerating a little, but you get the idea.) Does it have backlighting or glow-in-the-
dark buttons to help you see what you're doing when the lights are turned down? How easy is it to find
commonly used buttons by feel?

Check the video settings: Now that you've got the remote, pull up the video-adjustment menu and
look at the settings. If you thought the picture looked a little (or a lot) off on first viewing, try selecting
the median settings for contrast, brightness, color, tint, and sharpness. Those probably won't be
optimum, but chances are they're closer than what you found originally. A good display can easily look
worse than a lesser one if it's poorly adjusted. Repeat your tests using a variety of sources, including a
dimly lit movie, if necessary.

How to Buy a Rear-Projection TV

The Big Picture

A large proportion of TVs with screens larger than about 40 inches diagonal are
rear-projection designs. They project a video image inside a box and direct it by
means of lenses and mirrors onto the inner surface of a translucent screen. Until
fairly recently, all used cathode-ray tubes, or CRTs, to create the image. Although
this technique works well, the chassis is heavy and requires a relatively large,
usually floor-standing cabinet.

As screens have grown and TV has begun migrating to the new, wider 16:9 aspect
ratio (ratio of width to height), CRT-based designs have become increasingly cumbersome. This has
opened the door to new technologies that offer similar or better performance in lighter, more compact
enclosures.

Regardless of technology, today's rear-projection TVs are all high-definition displays, able to take full
advantage of the new digital HDTV broadcasting system. (HDTV provides wide-screen pictures with
much greater clarity and detail than conventional television.) Although a handful still require external
tuners for HDTV reception, built-in HD tuners are now virtually a standard feature. All sets include
tuners for regular analog broadcast and cable TV, and the ability to receive digital cable without a set-
top box has become a common feature.

CRT Sets

Some budget rear-projection TVs are still CRT-based. They generate pictures using three tubes, one for
each of the primary colors, red, green, and blue. The images from the three cathode-ray tubes are
carefully aligned, or "converged," to create a single, full-color picture. For more than 50 years, CRTs
were the only means of producing television pictures (hence the name "picture tube"), so the
technology is very mature and capable, at its best, of excellent performance. Its principal drawback is
bulk. Sets typically are about 2 feet deep, weigh well over 100 pounds, and must sit on the floor.
Screens range from 42 inches to more than 70 inches diagonal, and prices run from about $1000 to
about $4000.

CRT-based rear-projection TVs require precise convergence of their red, green, and blue tubes to
deliver maximum detail and prevent color fringing. Controls are provided to accomplish this manually
or automatically (or both). Generally speaking, the more points on the screen at which convergence
can be adjusted, the better.
Another issue with CRTs is that they are subject to image "burn-in." When one area of a tube is used
more than the rest, the light-emitting phosphor coating in that region will age faster than on the rest of
the tube. In severe cases, the result can be faint but permanent ghost images. (This is why
manufacturers caution about the use of game consoles with CRT rear-projection TVs--many games
have static backgrounds.) But you can minimize the risk of burn-in by using reasonable contrast and
brightness settings--which almost always means turning down the controls from their typically
overzealous factory settings.

All RPTVs exhibit some falloff in image brightness as you move away from directly in front of them,
either horizontally or vertically, but this effect is generally most dramatic with CRT models. Some also
exhibit noticeable "hot spotting"--greater brightness at the center of the screen than at the edges or
corners--though this is less of a problem than it used to be.

Like multiscanning computer monitors, CRT-based sets have the unique capability of adapting their
display characteristics to the incoming video signal. This didn't matter in the old days when all TV
pictures were in the same 480i format, but now there are at least three others to contend with: 480p,
720p, and 1080i. The number corresponds to the number of horizontal scan lines (or pixel rows) used
to create an image, while the letter indicates whether the images are interlaced or progressive.

The 480p format is what you get from a progressive-scan DVD player, while 720p and 1080i are the
two HDTV formats. Most CRT sets provide two display formats, usually 480p and 1080i, converting
other formats to one of those two. (Typically, 480i is converted to 480p and 720p to 1080i.)

LCD Sets rear-projection

The oldest and most widely used alternative imaging device in RPTVs is the liquid-crystal display, or
LCD. A number of manufacturers now use small LCD panels and high-intensity lamps to produce
lightweight, high-performance rear-projection TVs. Even a 60-inch set will be less than 18 inches deep
and weigh not much more than a hundred pounds. And LCD sets can go on a shelf; floor stands are
optional. Screens range from 42 inches to 70 inches diagonal, and prices range from about $2000 to
$8000, with most between $3000 and $4000.

LCDs are not susceptible to burn-in or misconvergence and do not gradually lose brightness over time
as CRTs do. On the other hand, they have a harder time producing deep blacks and gradations of dark
gray, which can make LCD sets look a little washed out compared with CRTs. Manufacturers have
worked hard to mitigate this weakness, however, and the best LCD projectors tend not to be as
obviously challenged in this respect as they once were. All LCD rear-projection TVs are wide-screen
displays, usually with a resolution of either 1280 by 720 (720p) or 1366 by 768.

DLP Sets

Digital light processing projectors are based on Texas Instruments' Digital Micromirror Device, which is
actually a chip manufactured using semiconductor-fabrication techniques. Its method of operation
sounds preposterous--thousands of microscopic mirrors flipping back and forth under microprocessor
control--but is spectacularly effective. As with LCD sets, the light source is a user-replaceable, high-
intensity lamp that will last for years in normal use. In fact, DLP and LCD rear-projection TVs are very
similar in nearly every aspect of their physical construction, sharing the light weight and shallow
cabinet depth that are such a big part of their appeal. Screens range from 42 inches to more than 70
inches diagonal; prices run from about $2000 to $10,000, though relatively few have list prices higher
than about $4000.

Also like LCD sets, DLP projectors are not subject to burn-in, misconvergence, or declining brightness
with age. Their handling of blacks and dark grays is superior, however--close to the performance of
CRTs. A very small number of people occasionally notice a fleeting separation of colors ("rainbows") on
moving objects when they move their heads or eyes quickly, but for most this is not an issue. All
current DLP rear-projection TVs are wide-screen displays with a resolution of 1280 by 720 (720p) or
1920 by 1080 (1080p), and almost all are tabletop designs.
LCoS Sets

Liquid crystal on silicon, or LCoS (also known as D-ILA, for direct-drive image light amplifier, or SXRD,
for silicon x-tal reflective display), is a liquid-crystal display technology. But unlike conventional
transmissive LCD panels, LCoS chips use a reflective silicon substrate, so that light bounces off them
rather than passing through. Like DLP and LCD, LCoS allows production of shallow, lightweight, high-
performance displays. A big appeal of this technology has always been the tight pixel packing it allows,
which helps keep the picture smooth on very big screens. Poor manufacturing yields have tended to
keep availability down and prices high, however. Screens range from 50 inches to 70 inches diagonal;
prices range from about $3800 to $13,000.

The relative youth of this technology and the variations of implementation make generalization difficult.
All current implementations are three-chip designs (one for each primary color) with either 1280 by
720 (720p) or 1920 by 1080 (1080p) resolution, and almost all are built for table or stand mounting.

To learn about other big-screen TV options, check out "How to Buy a Flat-Screen TV." And for more
information on home theaters, read "How to Buy a Home Theater System

The Specs Explained

Gone are the days when you figured out how big a screen you wanted, looked at some sets, and
bought the one with the best picture that fit your budget. An options explosion has littered the
shopping landscape with numbers, features, and terminology that even experts sometimes have
trouble tracking. So we've tried to boil it down to the basics that can actually do you some good. (In
audio and video, never forget that just because something has a number to describe it doesn't mean it
really matters!)

We've divided the specs into three categories: important, somewhat important, and minor.

Important: Aspect Ratio

The aspect ratio describes the relationship of screen width to screen height. Conventional sets have a
4:3 aspect ratio, whereas wide-screen models are 16:9. Wide screen is the future. HDTV is a wide-
screen format, for one thing. For another, DVDs usually look better on wide-screen displays because
nearly every movie made in the last 50 years was filmed in an aspect ratio of either 1.85:1 (very close
to 16:9, which is 1.78:1) or 2.35:1 (even wider than 16:9).

Somewhat Important: Resolution

For CRT displays, resolution typically is specified according to standard broadcast TV formats, such as
480i, 720p, 1080i, and so forth. The 720p and 1080i formats are high definition. Non-CRT displays,
such as LCDs and DLPs, are fixed-pixel arrays, which means they have rows and columns of individual
picture elements that turn on and off to produce the necessary patterns of light. Resolution is specified
as the number of pixel columns by the number of pixel rows--640 by 480, for example, or 1280 by
720.

Perceived picture detail depends primarily on display resolution. Generally speaking, a display is
considered high definition if it is wide screen and has a total pixel count approaching 1 million. So 1920
by 1080, 1280 by 720, and 1366 by 768 are all examples of high-definition display resolutions. Small
differences are usually not very consequential; you would probably not see much, if any, difference
between the three examples just cited unless you were sitting close to a large screen--which is why we
consider this spec only somewhat important. Since all current rear-projection TV models are high-
definition displays, resolution is not the biggest point of differentiation among them.

Important: Video Inputs

The number and type of video inputs determine which sources you can use with the display.

Composite video: This input type has the lowest quality but the broadest compatibility. Any device
that has video outputs will include composite video among them. Connection is made with a single 75-
ohm coaxial cable between RCA jacks.

S-Video: S-Video offers better quality than composite video, and most video sources except standard
VCRs now have S-Video outputs. Connection is made with a special cable and multipin sockets.

Component video: This high-quality option is the minimum standard for connecting HDTV tuners and
progressive-scan DVD players. It requires three 75-ohm coaxial cables of the same type used for
composite video.

RGB+H/V: This is another high-quality input type. An analog red-green-blue horizontal/vertical

connection is sometimes used instead of component video. This input requires five 75-ohm coaxial
cables of the same type used for composite video.

VGA: Video graphics array is a high-quality analog RGB connection used for computer connections and
sometimes in place of RGB+H/V.

DVI: This is one of the highest-quality types of inputs. Digital visual interface is a digital RGB
connection, commonly used for HDTV tuners and occasionally for DVD players that upconvert to 720p
or 1080i output; it may also be used for computer connections. Requires a special cable and multipin
sockets. Some displays with a DVI input may work only with computers, so watch out for that if you
plan to connect an HDTV tuner. Another thing you need for guaranteed HDTV compatibility is
compliance with the HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) system.

HDMI: Also of the highest quality, High-Definition Multimedia Interface is basically DVI plus a digital
audio link and HDCP; it can be mated to DVI with adapter cables. This connection is used on some
HDTV tuners and on most DVD players that upconvert to 720p or 1080i output.

Important: Viewing Angle

Because of the nature of their screens, rear-projection TV images tend to lose brightness as you move
away from directly in front of them, especially on CRT-based sets. The effect is usually more
pronounced vertically than horizontally, but since people tend to watch from the same height all the
time, the vertical fade is less important. How much the horizontal viewing angle matters depends on
how your seating area is set up, but the closer a set gets to a 180-degree acceptable viewing angle, the
better. And though a viewing-angle spec can be a handy rough guide, there is no substitute for
checking this out with your own eyes.

Somewhat Important: Built-in Tuners

You can expect any rear-projection television to include a tuner for conventional analog broadcast and
cable TV reception, and almost all have built-in HDTV tuners, as well. If you want HDTV but do not
expect or want to have an external HDTV tuner, be sure the set you buy includes one. Some sets also
have built-in tuners for digital cable TV. Although there is a standard for handling scrambled premium
channels (for example, HBO) in such tuners, not all sets support it yet, so be sure you know exactly
what you are getting. If you want that capability, make sure the set you buy has a CableCard slot and
that your cable provider can provide you with the necessary electronic ID card.

Minor: Comb Filter Type

Comb filters are necessary in analog TV to separate color and luminance information without losing too
much detail, but that's not an issue in HDTV. The only time the comb filter comes into play is for analog
TV reception or any signal coming in through a composite video connection. For all other connections,
it's out of the loop. Plus, the comb filters in today's rear-projection TVs are routinely very good.
Rear-Projection TV Shopping Tips

Ready to buy? Here are key points to consider before you make the big commitment.

Make some measurements: Some rear-projection TVs have very large cabinets. It's important not
only that whatever you buy fit where it needs to go in the room but also that it can be maneuvered
through halls and doorways to its final destination.

Think HDMI: If at all possible, you should get a set with an HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia
Interface) or HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection)-compliant DVI input. This will ensure
full compatibility with HDTV tuners and future high-definition DVD players.

Compare displays using a variety of material: Just about any current rear-projection set will
handle HDTV and DVD signals well, but mediocre cable and satellite signals will give some of them fits.
Don't make a buying decision based solely on pictures generated from pristine sources.

Look for good blacks: When you head to the store, bring a DVD of a movie containing some dimly lit
night scenes. Use it to check for good black reproduction and ability to render detail in near-darkness.

Take a walk: Around the TV that is. How does the picture hold up as you move away from the center
toward the sides? Also, when comparing the picture on two different sets, make sure you are looking at
them from the same vertical angle. If one screen is at a greater distance above or below your eye, it
will almost always look darker and duller.

Get to know the remote: A good remote can be your best friend, a bad remote your worst enemy.
(Well, okay, we're exaggerating a little, but you get the idea.) Does it have backlighting or glow-in-the-
dark buttons to help you see what you're doing when the lights are turned down? How easy is it to find
commonly used buttons by feel?

Check the video settings: Now that you've got the remote, pull up the video-adjustment menu and
look at the settings. If you thought the picture looked a little (or a lot) off on first viewing, try choosing
the median settings for contrast, brightness, color, tint, and sharpness. Those probably won't be
optimum, but chances are they're closer than what you found originally. A good display can easily look
worse than a lesser one if it's poorly adjusted. Repeat your tests using a variety of sources, including a
dimly lit movie, if necessary.