Number 1 2023 - Issue n° 29

For Him, for Her, for You!

FASHION TRAVEL FOOD PALAZZO MORESCO

It’s dark The White Delights of Gay owned hotel
bohemian time Lotus Italy close to Rome
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 For Him, for Her, for You!
Number 1 Spring/Summer quiikymagazine 2023 - Issue n° 29
C ON T E N T S Lots of

For Him, for Her, for You!

additional
multimedia

Number 1 Spring/Summer quiikymagazine 2023 - Issue n° 29

content
3 EDITORIAL FASHION TRAVEL FOOD PALAZZO MORESCO available in the
Andrea Cosimi
It’s dark The White Delights of Gay owned hotel

digital version
FASHION TRAVEL FOOD PALAZZO MORESCO
It’s dark The White Delights of Gay owned hotel
bohemian time Lotus Italy close to Rome bohemian time Lotus Italy close to Rome

4 COVER
Princes and Slaves
Fortresses and sweetness Follow us on

@qmagazine.italia

24 FASHION Instagram: q_magazine

Twitter: @QMagazine_Ita
It’s Dark Bohemian time
Q M AGAZIN E
30 TRAVEL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Tuscany an itinerary between Andrea Cosimi

RESPONSIBLE DIRECTOR:
marble and sandan Letizia Strambi
GRAPHICS AND LAYOUT:
Monica Sotgiu - www.thelittleduck.it
ENGLISH EDITOR:
36 TRAVEL Robert Peaslee
EDITORIAL SECRETARY:
The White Lotus Teresa Dalessandri
CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE:
Francesca Galli, Titta Gruppo, Carlo Lanna, Valentino Odorico

42 ART & CULTURE EDITORIALISTS:

Alessandro Cecchi Paone, Alessio Virgili

The Arcadia of the 20th century PHOTOS COURTESY OF:

stock.adobe.com, alamy.it, dreamstime.com, unsplash.com,
is in Taormina Sky tv, Prime tv, Casa Cuseni, Tuscany Region,
Shooting fotografico Roberto Chiovitti

PHOTOLITHOGRAPHY AND PRINTING:

48 FOOD Pixartprinting

Delights of Italy EDITOR:

Sonders and Beach Italy s.r.l.
Incredible dishes to discover at Sede di Milano - Via San Gregorio, 27 - 20124

the ‘Dinner Club’ Iscrizione ROC Lombardia n. 21970

ADVERTISING:
www.q-magazine.it
52 WHAT’S INN? [email protected]

n° 02- 2022 six-monthly Autumn/Winter magazine

Authorization of the Court of Milan
56 TRAVEL of 23.01.2019 n° 11/2019
Registration R.O.C. Lombardy n. 21970
In Nice for the Lou Queernaval

62 EDITORIAL Members Of:

Alessio Virgili
Alessandro Cecchi Paone

C O N T E N T S 1
 ITALY AND FAMILY:
A P ER E N N I A L C O N S TR U C T O F BEAUT Y

I talians are known for their attachment to family. If the-

re had not been the Medici, the Estensi, the Sforza, we
would not have Michelangelo, Leonardo, Raffaello. The Si-
gnorie and the great families that have traced wars and divi-
again trendy among tourists thanks to The White Lotus seri-
es, which, in addition to the spectacular Taormina, uncovers
niche locations, luxurious estates, and new approaches to
high-end itineraries.
sions leave us a country rich in diversity and contrasts that Moreover, we could not fail to dwell on one of Sicily’s lesser-
determine its beauty, its enormous cultural heritage. known places, and one of the most important in LGBTQ+ hi-
In this issue of QMagazine we write about these stories in our story in the world: Casa Cuseni, a veritable hotbed of artists
family palaces, also through shooting on unique backdrops, where we find frescoes of the first rainbow family represented
recalling the Renaissance, the Baroque, ancient Rome, pos- in a living room, and where the biggest names of the past
sible in locations that only Italy showcases. centuries have passed through, from Oscar Wilde to Ernest
We dwell, as always, on current fashion, which with its gothic Hemingway. One of the region’s many hidden paradises.
lines is also crossing sunny Italy, finding space in the sarto- At the table, Italian families celebrate every feast, every an-
rial tradition, where even the smallest lace is the result of niversary, every journey. There are many discoveries in every
care, synthesis and undisputed elegance. territory, but this time we went deeper with Michelin-starred
Our travels take us to the most unprecedented Tuscany, to chef Carlo Cracco, who reveals to us the most undiscovered
the first land to be discovered by modern LGBTQ+ travelers: delights, the unique food that can be found in monasteries,
Versilia, the one most devoted to modern art, freedom, and in dedicated academies, in hidden restaurants, on the street.
irreverence. We hope that each suggestion will be an exclusive and
Once again, we return to Sicily, a wonderful land that is once sought-after guide for our readers, as always.

LE FAMIGLIA E L’ITALIA, UNA PERENNE COSTRUZIONE DI BELLEZZA

G li italiani sono noti per il loro attaccamento alla famiglia.

Se non ci fossero stati i Medici, gli Estensi, gli Sforza
non avremmo avuto Michelangelo, Leonardo, Raffaello. Le Signo-
rie e le grandi famiglie che hanno tracciato guerre e divisioni ci
questo è determinato, in parte, proprio dai contrasti nella storia,
dalle dominazioni subite, da cui le grandi famiglie hanno attinto
le caratteristiche per trasformarle in amore.
In questo numero di QMagazine raccontiamo, una volta di più,
lasciano un Paese ricco di diversità e contrasti che ne determina- queste storie nei nostri palazzi familiari, anche attraverso lo sho-
no la sua bellezza, la sua enorme eredità culturale. oting su sfondi unici, che richiamano il Rinascimento, il Barocco,
Molti amano il nostro stile di vita nel mondo, ma sicuramente l’antica Roma, possibili in location che solo l’Italia ha.

Andrea Cosimi

E D I T O R I A L 3
PRINCES
AND
SLAVES
FROM MEDICEAN FLORENCE
TO ADRIANO’S ROME

Homage to Salai and Antinoo.

A plunge into the centuries when
men could change their world only
with the power of youth

PRINCIPI E
SCHIAVI
DALLA FIRENZE MEDICEA ALLA ROMA
DI ADRIANO

Omaggio a Salai e Antinoo. Un tuffo nei secoli

in cui gli uomini potevano cambiare il loro
mondo con la sola forza della giovinezza

4 P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S
 FOTOGRAFO: Roberto Chiovitti
MODELLO: Sepanta Arya
LOCATION: Abbazia di San Giusto Tuscania

P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S 5
8 P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S
P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S 9
FORTRESSES
AND
SWEETNESS
Italian beauty, blue skies, greenery, imposing
ramparts unchanged by time, hidden gates,
voluptuous mysteries

FORTEZZE E DOLCEZZE
La bellezza italiana, i cieli azzurri, il verde, gli imponenti bastioni
immutati nel tempo, le porte nascoste, i voluttuosi misteri

10 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S 11
12 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 13
14 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 15
16 P R I N C E S A N D S L A V E S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 17
18 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 19
20 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 21
22 F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S
F O R T R E S S E S A N D S W E E T N E S S 23
Anteprima

IT’S DARK
BOHEMIAN TIME
by Valentino Odorico

24 F A S H I O N
 Alberto Zambelli

Diesel
Family First

D reary, dark, black: the dark look has

recently come back to the limelight,
thanks to the series ‘Wednesday’, directed
by Tim Burton, with the protagonist played
masterfully by Jenna Ortega. And what could
be more subversive than a teenage girl? Her
looks have driven all fashion addicts crazy,
but also teenage girls all over the world who,
thanks to the success of the series, started loo-
king for clothes and accessories that, as much
as possible, resembled the character.
A gothic doll, the one who narrates this almost
chaste femininity, that sets trends. Already
in 2019, Prada’s collection was a true tribute
to the Addams family, and recently Dior also
proposed some minimal and dark ideas.
But from the TV series, other trends have been
declined on the catwalk: from sporty-chic re-
miniscent of school uniforms to the tie, now a
fluid accessory, one of the must-have pieces in
a woman’s wardrobe.
Green light also goes to white collars, contra-
sting cuffs, stripes and plaid. Check jumpers,
sleeveless waistcoats and even pleated skirts
are now also indispensable elements in cre-
ating looks. The catwalks also brought back
forgotten pieces: black loafers and endless
tulle accents.

F A S H I O N 25
 Diesel
Neil Barret
Unforgettable was the voluminous black tulle
dress worn to the Nevermore Academy prom,
which literally drove the web crazy. A new
idea of the Gothic princess, for an image that
can also be created through the use of leather,
or with jeans with a worn effect.
Fashion is therefore seen as a new aesthetic
order that inspires the act of dressing also with
a sense of lightness, both mental and physical.
An example is ALBERTO ZAMBELLI’s col-
lection: an exploration of the tactile and deep
darkness of anthracite, black, and blues war-
med with ebony, plaster and moss, in a dua-
lity between archaic and contemporary. An
alchemy between minimalism and simplicity
without ornaments, without decorations, in
which the principle of each garment is brought
back to the essential for a simplicity reduced
to the extreme.
The “ANTEPRIMA” brand has entitled its
next winter collection GLOW IN THE DARK:
modern rebel spirit and classic femininity
with an extremely dramatic aura.
“FENDI” focuses on masculine tailoring and
traditional fabrics that are woven into femi-
nine shapes, while elements of utilitarianism
appear everywhere: overalls, aprons, uni-
Fendi

forms. The lace is lacquered and layered; an

accent is placed on ‘fetishism’ that transpires

26 F A S H I O N
through lingerie petticoats peeping out under

Gucci
garments or through thigh-high lace-up boots.
But this minimalist vision also contaminates
the male universe. One example is the ‘FA-
MILY FIRST’ collection in which an aristo-
cratic and décontracté spirit with a chic and
sporty tone hover, no to excessive decoration
and garish tones, yes to essential garments of
excellent workmanship, no to overdressing,
yes to a sober and spontaneous elegance with
sporty accents. The cargo trousers are purged
of all decorative excess, the new version of
sweatpants is in Norwegian-stitched knit, the
varsity jacket reproduces a strong college feel,
but renewed by a clean, streamlined design.
The men’s uniform is also the hallmark for
NEIL BARRET: the unconscious and subcon-
scious uniforms of everyday life and culture.
Ironically, these are uniforms worn by those
who eschew labels, but these clothes mark both
the individual and the sense of community and
belonging. The collection is built around indi-
viduality: individual personalities and indivi-
dual garments. The essence of a real wardrobe.
Moving from one state of mind to another, the
individual can evolve. The choice of garments,
shades, combinations distinguish the different
subjectivities. Inspiration is drawn from mu-
sical groups and subcultures: Punk and Post-
Punk, Rocker, New Wave, Casual. Markers of a
shared culture and interests, the uniforms are
reflections of reality, but here intensified and
elevated.
Francesca Libratore

F A S H I O N 27
Fendi

28 F A S H I O N
 È L’ORA DEL
DARK BOHEMIAN
by Valentino Odorico

T etro, buio, nero: il look dark recente-

mente è tornato alla ribalta, complice
anche la serie “Mercoledì”, diretta da Tim
Burton. I look hanno fatto impazzire tutti i
biuli, uniformi. Il pizzo è laccato e stratificato;
un accento è posto al “feticismo” che traspare
attraverso sottovesti di lingerie che fanno ca-
polino sotto i capi o grazie agli stivali stringati
fashion addicted. alti fino alla coscia.
Una bambola gotica, quella che racconta que- Ma questa visione minimale contamina anche
sta femminilità quasi castigata. Già nel 2019 l’universo maschile. Un esempio è la collezio-
la collezione di Prada rappresentava un vero ne “FAMILY FIRST” nella quale aleggia uno
e proprio tributo alla famiglia Addams e re- spirito aristocratico e décontracté dal tono chic
centemente anche Dior ha proposto delle idee e sporty: no a decori eccessivi e ai toni sgar-
minimali e dark. gianti, sì a capi essenziali di ottima fattura,
Ma dalla serie tv sono state declinate altre no all’overdressing, sì a un’eleganza sobria e
tendenze in passerella: lo sporty-chic che ri- spontanea con accenti sportivi. I pantaloni car-
corda le uniformi scolastiche fino alla cravatta, go sono depurati da ogni eccesso decorativo,
accessorio ormai fluido, uno dei pezzi imman- la nuova versione degli sweatpants è in maglia
cabili nel guardaroba femminile. dai punti norvegesi, la Varsity jacket riproduce
Via libera anche ai colletti bianchi, ai polsini una forte suggestione college, ma rinnovata da
a contrasto, alle righe e allo scozzese. I ma- un design pulito e svelto.
glioni a quadri, i gilet senza maniche e anche L’uniforme maschile è anche il segno distintivo
le gonne a pieghe. Le passerelle hanno anche per NEIL BARRET: le uniformi inconsce e
riportato in auge pezzi dimenticati: i mocassini subconsce della vita e della cultura quotidia-
neri e infiniti accenti di tulle. na. Ironicamente, si tratta di uniformi indos-
Indimenticabile il voluminoso abito in tulle sate da coloro che rifuggono le etichette, ma
nero indossato al ballo scolastico della Never- questi abiti contraddistinguono sia l’individuo
more Academy. Una nuova idea di principessa che il senso di comunità e di appartenenza. La
gotica, per un’immagine che è possibile creare scelta dei capi, delle tonalità, degli abbina-
anche attraverso l’uso del pellame, o con jeans menti contraddistingue le diverse soggettività.
dall’effetto vissuto.
La moda quindi è vista come un nuovo ordine
estetico che ispira l’atto di vestirsi anche con
senso di leggerezza, sia mentale, sia fisico.
Un esempio è la collezione di ALBERTO
ZAMBELLI: una esplorazione dell’oscurità
tattile e profonda dell’antracite, del nero, dei
blu riscaldati con ebano, intonaco e muschio,
in una dualità fra arcaico e contemporaneo.
Un’alchimia fra minimalismo e semplicità.
Il brand “ANTEPRIMA” ha intitolato la col-
lezione del prossimo inverno GLOW IN THE
DARK: moderno spirito ribelle e femminilità
classica dall’aura estremamente drammatica.
“FENDI” invece punta sulla sartoria maschile
Neil Barret

e tessuti tradizionali che vengono intrecciati

in forme femminili, mentre elementi di utilita-
Fendi

rismo appaiono ovunque: tute da lavoro, grem-

F A S H I O N 29
 TUSCANY
AN ITINERARY BETWEEN
MARBLE AND SAND
An area rich in art from the Middle Ages to the present day,
full of flavors, free, cultured, irreverent

L ivorno, Pisa, Versilia, the Apuan Alps:

we are in the most unconstrained Tusca-
ny, strong in its history, its traditions and open
to art. An area that has always been in ferment,
Pisa is located. In the 1960s and 1970s, the
square was the starting point for processions.
These included Pisa79, a demonstration that
became a real milestone in the Italian LGBTQ+
captured in its essence by writer Pier Paolo Pa- movement. Pisa79 is in fact considered the first
solini in ‘La lunga strada di sabbia’(The long official Italian Pride, as it was the first demon-
street of sand) in which he celebrates contami- stration by a homosexual collective authorized
nation as the richness of the territory. by the police and sponsored by the Municipal-
ity of Pisa. According to estimates, there were
PISA about 300 participants on that 24 November
Everyone knows Pisa thanks to its spectacular 1979, joined by onlookers and allies such as
Piazza dei Miracoli. feminist collectives. The procession crossed the
Human intellect has been celebrated here over streets of the historic center passing by Ponte
the centuries, and by crossing it, we could walk di Mezzo, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and Corso
in the footsteps of Galileo Galilei, who was Italia, finally ending up in the famous Piazza
baptized in the medieval Baptistery (1152), in dei Miracoli.
Piazza dei Miracoli. Another unmissable stop for the LGBTQ+
But few people know that the Leaning Tower community is Vicolo del Tinti. Today this is a
in Piazza dei Miracoli is an LGBTQ+ meeting narrow street in the historical center with a few
place. It was here, in 1979, that the first his- restaurants and taverns, but in the 1970s, civic
toric Italian Pride took place: at the end of the 30 was the headquarters of the Circolo del Col-
parade, all the people improvised a liberating lettivo Orfeo (Orpheus Collective Circle), one
roundabout around the Tower. of the first associations in Italy set up to tack-
This is not the only place for the LGBTQ+ com- le violence against LGBTQ+ people. The club
munity. Included in the rainbow route is Piaz- was founded by some university students from
za dei Cavalieri where the Scuola Normale di Pisa who came from other Tuscan cities and

30 T R A V E L
 ph. Archivio Toscana
Promozione Turistica
Riviera Apuana
ph. Archivio Toscana
Promozione Turistica

Pisa Lungarno Tuttomondo, Keith Haring - Pisa

in the ferment of those years, activism began, of all time and his work is only partially legible
with meetings, leafleting, disco nights and film if not connected to the struggles for LGBTQ+
shows. From here we move to Palazzo Blu, an rights, especially those who, during his years of
exhibition space on the southern Lungarno that work, were fighting against AIDS and the stig-
hosts temporary exhibitions and cultural events. ma of the disease. TUTTOMONDO is located
Exhibitions of the greatest international artists in the Piazzetta Haring in Pisa. It is a repre-
are organized here and it is not difficult to find sentation of how Haring imagined the future: a
paintings, sculptures and photographs by artists world where living in harmony with nature and
close to the LGBTQ+ world. where the dominant ideals are those of peace
The itinerary ends by reaching the famous mu- and unity.
ral TUTTOMONDO by Keith Haring. Haring For relaxation, wellness is offered by the Bagni
was one of the most influential LGBTQ+ artists di Pisa, a spa in the Palace of the Grand Dukes

T R A V E L 31
ph. Archivio Toscana Promozione Turistica
Nicola Santini

Versilia
ph. Archivio Toscana
Promozione Turistica
Nicola Santini

scape and this has developed the sculptural tra-

dition. Sculpture in Pietrasanta is a congenital
expression in a reality that sees, side by side,
great artists and craftsmen. A happy union to
which we owe an international reputation. At-
tracted by the technical skill of the local crafts-
men, artists from all over the world come to the
city to work. From Michelangelo to Lipchitz and
Botero, Pietrasanta is known as ‘the little Ath-
ens of Italy’, a unique art space suspended be-
Versilia tween sea and hill, between history and contem-
porary languages. There are dozens of sculpture
of Tuscany, a historic resort with a unique spa workshops and no less than six foundries. More
in an enchanted area. than 30 galleries complete the Pietrasanta art
Nature lovers should not miss a visit to the Mi- system. The International Sculpture Park of
gliarino, San Rossore and Massaciuccoli Re- the City of Pietrasanta is an open-air museum
gional Park where there are nature reserves, with over 60 works. Finally, Pietrasanta is also
beaches and dunes, and wetlands. You can a place of literature. The town commemorates
walk in the archaeological area of the Roman Giosue Carducci every year on the day of his
Massaciuccoli, visit one of the farms inside, the birth, 27 July, with the award ceremony of the
Puccini House Museum. International Poetry Prize.

VERSILIA LIVORNO
LGBTQ+ tourism in Italy finds its longest-run- A cosmopolitan city characterized by its hav-
ning destination in the modern era in Versilia. ing been a free port, with facilities to encourage
Viareggio in particular has always been an in- trade, but above all, creating a regime of tol-
clusive place with iconic beaches such as the erance that allowed Jews, Greeks, Armenians
Lecciona, which has now become naturist. and Turks to worship. Here we find the ‘Old
A central stop in Versilia is Pietrasanta, the his- Fortress’, one of the most important coastal for-
torical capital of the area on the Tuscan coast. tifications in the Mediterranean and a symbol of
The marble of the Apuan Alps frames the land- the city. Not far away is the Monument of the

32 T R A V E L
 Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

ph. Fabio Beconcini

ph. Archivio Toscana

Promozione Turistica
Guido Cozzi
Livorno, porto e quartiere Venezia

Four Moors. But Livorno attractions are diverse: you can sail
If it is true that the discovery of a place also along the city canals or climb up to the Sanctu-
passes through its most typical flavors, then a ary of Montenero admiring the coast, or visit the
must-see is the Mercato Centrale, also known city’s museums.
by the evocative name of Mercato delle Vet- In the heart of Livorno is Villa Henderson,
tovaglie. The tall windows fill an elegant, Pa- where the Museum of Natural History of the
risian-style structure with light, where you are Mediterranean has found its ideal setting, as
surrounded by the scents of the sea and the well as several contemporary art museums: the
earth: here everything invites you to taste, and Museo della Città-Luoco Pio Arte Contempora-
there is no better place to stop for a nice lunch nea, the historic Galleria Giraldi dedicated to
of fresh fish or a tasty snack, such as the ‘5 e 5’, the avant-garde, and the friendly Galleria Uovo
the classic chickpea cake sandwich. Mercato alla Pop dedicated to street art. Not far away,
delle Vettovaglie hosts themed evening events, near the house where Modigliani was born,
such as tastings and cooking shows. there is also Galerie 21, dedicated to abstract,
An aperitif and a stroll along the city’s water- analytical and conceptual contemporary art.
front are the perfect end to the day, especially Livorno is also a seaside town where the bathing
if you stop to admire the sunset on the Terraz- establishments along the coast have been built
za Mascagni. The famous chequered floor and since 1781.
decorated railing characterise a place full of For those who love the outdoors and sports, the
charm, a large space overlooking the sea with Calafuria Nature Reserve is an extraordinary
a priceless view. panoramic viewpoint over the entire Costa degli

ph. Archivio Toscana Promozione Turistica

Guido Cozzi

Livorno

T R A V E L 33
ph. Archivio Toscana
Promozione Turistica

Torre del Lago, Viareggio

Etruschi, from Livorno to Piombino. buy the famous ‘Torta di Ceci’, a savoury pie
Finally, Livorno is the ideal place to go to the made with chickpea flour, perhaps accompa-
island of Capraia 36 miles from the coast, 800 nied by a glass of Spuma Bionda.
metres of road, 200 inhabitants, a small port, a The Costa degli Etruschi wine and oil road is
single village at the foot of the Fortezza. All the another gourmet route that falls within this ter-
rest is Mediterranean scrub and lonely coves. ritory. It covers 150 km along the Tyrrhenian
coast and the Island of Elba, reaching part of
ENOGASTRONOMY the province of Pisa.
While visiting the landscapes evoked by the
Macchiaioli of the Pisan hills, you can taste
Gremigno’s extra virgin olive oil, not forgetting EVENTS
that Tuscan extra virgin olive oil is a historical Puccini Festival, Torre del Lago,
PGI of these places. Tuscan pecorino cheese is Viareggio. An unmissable appointment
also PDO, which origins date back to Etruscan with opera in the open-air Grand
times. Typical products also include Pecorino Theatre starting in July. In 2023 the 69th
cheese from the Balze Volterrane, cherries from edition.
Lari, and the white truffle from the San Miniato
hills. DAP Festival - Dance in Art in
The Strada del Vino delle Colline Pisane (Wine Pietrasanta. In July. It attracts dance
students, choreographers and enthusiasts
Route of the Pisan Hills) includes the inner-
from all over the world.
most areas of Valdera and the lower Valdarno
up to the Val di Cecina, where the sea is close The Rowing Races in Livorno. In the
by. Here, quality wines are produced, that can period between April and June, the
be traced back to geographical indications or Gare Remiere are held, a folkloristic
designations of origin that play a fundamental event with five different competitions:
role in the protection of cultural heritage, tradi- the Trofeo della Liberazione, the Giostra
tional production methods and natural resourc- dell’Antenna, the Risi’atori and Barontini
es. Among these is Bianco Pisano di San Torpè cups, and the Palio Marinaro.
DOC. The Races boast a centuries-old tradition
For food and wine enthusiasts, the ‘caciucco dating back to the 16th century.
alla livornese’ is a must, but do not miss the
For more: visittuscany.com
‘Pizza e Torta’ shops in Livorno where you can

34 T R A V E L
 TOSCANA UN ITINERARIO
TRA MARMO E SABBIA
Un territorio ricco di arte dal medioevo ai giorni nostri,
pieno di sapori, libero, colto, irreverente

L ivorno, Pisa, la Versilia, le Alpi Apuane: siamo

nella Toscana più libera dagli schemi, forte della
sua storia, delle sue tradizioni e aperta all’arte. Un terri-
torio da sempre in fermento, colto nella sua essenza da
LIVORNO
Città cosmopolita caratterizzata dal suo essere stata un por-
to franco, con facilitazioni dirette a favorire il commercio,
ma soprattutto a creare un regime di tolleranza che permise
Pasolini ne “La lunga strada di sabbia” in cui si celebra la ad Ebrei, Greci, Armeni e Turchi di esercitare il proprio
contaminazione quale ricchezza del territorio. culto.  Qui troviamo la “Fortezza Vecchia”, una delle più
importanti fortificazioni costiere del Mediterraneo e simbo-
PISA lo della città.    Non distante si trova il  Monumento dei
Tutti conoscono Pisa grazie alla sua spettacolare Piazza dei Quattro Mori.
Miracoli. In pochi sanno che in piazza dei Miracoli la Tor- Se è vero che la scoperta di un luogo passa anche dai
re pendente è un luogo di aggregazione LGBTQ+. Proprio suoi sapori più tipici, al Mercato delle Vettovaglie dove
qui, nel 1979, si concluse il primo storico Pride italiano: fermarsi per un pranzo a base di pesce fresco o uno spun-
alla fine della parata tutte le persone improvvisarono un tino sfizioso, come il “5 e 5”, il classico panino con la torta
girotondo liberatorio intorno alla Torre.  di ceci.
Non si tratta del solo luogo ideale per la community Un aperitivo è la conclusione perfetta della giornata, so-
LGBTQ+. Nel percorso arcobaleno va inclusa Piazza dei prattutto se ci si ferma ad ammirare il tramonto sulla Ter-
Cavalieri dove si trova la Scuola Normale di Pisa.  Negli razza Mascagni.
anni Sessanta e Settanta la piazza era il punto di partenza
dei cortei. Fra questi anche  Pisa79 considerato il primo ENOGASTRONOMIA
Pride ufficiale italiano, in quanto prima manifestazione di Per gli appassionati di enogastronomia è imperdibile il ca-
un collettivo omosessuale autorizzata dalla questura e pa- ciucco alla livornese, ma non mancate, sempre a Livorno, i
trocinata dal Comune di Pisa. negozi “Pizza e Torta” in cui acquistare la famosa “Torta di
Altra tappa immancabile è Vicolo del Tinti. Negli anni set- Ceci”, ovvero la torta salata a base di farina di ceci, magari
tanta, al civico 30 si trovava la sede del Circolo del Col- accompagnata da un bicchiere di Spuma Bionda. 
lettivo Orfeo, fra le prime associazioni in Italia nate per
contrastare la violenza sulle persone LGBTQ+. 
L’itinerario si conclude raggiungendo il famoso mura- EVENTI
le TUTTOMONDO di Keith Haring.  Puccini Festival, Torre del Lago,
Per il relax c’è il benessere offerto dai Bagni di Pisa, stabi- Viareggio. Appuntamento immancabile
limento termale nel Palazzo dei Granduchi di Toscana, un con l’Opera lirica nel Gran Teatro
resort storico con una spa unica in un territorio incantato. all’aperto a partire da luglio. Nel 2023
siamo alla 69° edizione.
LA VERSILIA
DAP Festival - Danza in Arte a
Il turismo LGBTQ+ in Italia trova nella Versilia la sua Pietrasanta. In luglio. Attrae studenti di
destinazione più longeva dell’era moderna. Viareggio in danza, coreografi e appassionati di tutto
particolare è stato sempre un luogo inclusivo con spiagge il mondo.
iconiche come la Lecciona oggi diventata naturista.
Tappa centrale della Versilia è Pietrasanta. La scultura a Le Gare Remiere  a Livorno. Nel periodo
Pietrasanta è un’espressione congenita in una realtà che tra aprile e giugno si svolgono le Gare
vede, fianco a fianco, grandi artisti ed artigiani. Da Miche- Remiere, una manifestazione folkloristica
langelo a Lipchitz e Botero, Pietrasanta è nota come “la che conta cinque competizioni.
piccola Atene d’Italia”, uno spazio d’arte unico, sospeso tra
mare e collina, tra storia e linguaggi contemporanei. Per approfondire: visittuscany.com

T R A V E L 35
36 T R A V E L
 THE WHITE
LOTUS
The TV series which highlights Italian beauty becomes an
Italian tour by Quiky
by Carlo Lanna, credit foto Sky Italia

T R A V E L 37
Montepulciano

38 T R A V E L
 magical traditions, and the Sicilian land with
all its beauties was photographed in the most
appreciated and awarded TV series of 2022,
spotting beaches, good food, sunsets and pan-
oramas of a true pearl of the Mediterranean.
The second season is set in a fictional White
Lotus in Taormina, and that extra-luxury ho-
tel is the imaginary backdrop to a much-loved
story, about the vices and virtues of the “new
bourgeoisie”, setting a cold but extraordinary
story in the town near Messina beauty. A series
that has convinced both audiences and critics,
even winning an Emmy Award for “best film or

N o one would have expected such a suc-

cess for The White Lotus. The antho-
logical series broadcast in the States on HBO
- and in Italy on Sky and NowTv - quickly es-
miniseries”, so much so that in America they
are already thinking about a third season - it is
rumored that it will be set in Thailand - after the
dazzling success of the second chapter.
It is an American series, sarcastic, grotesque
tablished itself as a real phenomenon of cus- and by no means trivial, with an Italian heart
tom. The first episode dates back to 2021 and beating, not only because the episodes of sea-
everyone (without exception) was fascinated by son two were filmed in our country. In the cast,
the rich and unscrupulous stories of vacationers in fact, many well-known faces of Italian cine-
staying in a resort in Hawaii. The same formu- ma stand out such as Sabrina Impacciatore, in
la, which mixes comedy and mystery, has been a blatantly LGBT role, and Paolo Camilli. The
replicated with even more splendor in the sec- White Lotus has won several firsts, not only
ond act of the TV series. Totally changed cast, in the award season, but has also relaunched
except for the iconic Jennifer Coleridge, new tourism in Italy after the three dark years of the
location, but the desire to amaze the public with pandemic. In fact, the locations of the TV series
a witty story poised between drama and social have become the subject of a tour organized by
denunciation does not change. Quiiky, an Italian tour operator, created pre-
The White Lotus impressed even more be- cisely to allow tourists to admire the places
cause Italy and especially Sicily was chosen where the filming took place, and to make the
as the setting for the episodes of season two. emotions live “on the skin”. The tour starts
Ours is a wonderful country, full of history and from the luxurious San Domenico Palace, a five-

T R A V E L 39
 star hotel where almost all the shooting takes
place, passing through the center of the city of
Taormina, and again through the Naxos gar-
dens, touching the picturesque Noto, the town
of Modica where amongst the best chocolates in
the world are produced and Ragusa. These are
just some of the most famous locations where
filming took place. For example, there is also a
glimpse of the city of Palermo in the Vucciria,
historic market, where the actors have been im-
mortalized amidst the lights, smells and scents
of a unique land.
Italy, for once, is not told only from the point of
view of organized crime as it has happened in
many TV series. The White Lotus finally cel-
ebrates the traditions of our country, the uses
and customs of a place that does not forget its
past and, above all, celebrates the authentici-
ty of people who smile at life despite problems
and an existence in balance between what is
right and what is wrong.

THE WHITE LOTUS

TOUR BY QUIIKY
A nine-day and eight-night tour to
travel on the sets of the famous TV se-
ries and enjoy a unique experience.
On the website www.quiiky.com, de-
tails about the locations are avaialble,
in a journey through Sicily, touching
Noto, Palermo and Messina. It starts
at the beginning of October, on the
5th to be exact, with an itinerary of
pure relaxation and fun together with
a 100% LGBTQ+ friendly brand.

40 T R A V E L
 THE WHITE LOTUS
la serie tv che ha fatto riscoprire le bellezze dell’Italia
diventa un tour italiano di Quiiky
di Carlo Lanna, credit foto Sky Italia

N essuno si sarebbe aspettato un tale suc-

cesso per The White Lotus. La serie
antologica in onda negli States sulla HBO – e in
Italia su Sky e NowTv - in poco tempo si è impo-
tamente LGBT, e Paolo Camilli. The White Lo-
tus ha vinto diversi primati, non solo nella award
season, ma ha anche rilanciato il turismo in Ita-
lia dopo i tre anni bui di pandemia. Di fatto, le
sta come un vero e proprio fenomeno di costume. location della serie tv sono diventate oggetto di
Il primo episodio risale al 2021 e tutti (nessuno un tour organizzato da Quiiky, tour operator ita-
escluso) sono rimasti affascinati delle storie ric- liano, nato proprio per poter far ammirare ai tu-
che e spregiudicate dei vacanzieri in soggiorno risti i luoghi in cui si sono svolte le riprese, e per
in un resort delle Hawaii. La stessa formula, che far vivere sulla “pelle” le emozioni di The White
miscela comicità, mistero è stata replicata con Lotus. Si parte dal lussuosissimo San Domenico
ancora più splendore nel secondo atto della serie Palace, hotel a cinque stelle in cui si svolgono
tv. Cast totalmente cambiato, tranne per l’iconi- quasi tutte le riprese, passando per il centro
ca Jennifer Coleridge, nuova location, ma non della città di Taormina, e ancora per i giardini
cambia la voglia di stupire il pubblico con un Naxos, sfiorando la pittoresca Noto, la cittadina
racconto sagace e in bilico tra dramma e denun- di Modica dove si produce uno dei cioccolati più
cia sociale. buoni al mondo, e Ragusa. Sono solo alcune
The White Lotus ha colpito ancor di più perché, delle location più celebri in cui si sono svolte le
come cornice per gli episodi della stagione due, riprese. Ad esempio, c’è anche uno scorcio della
è stata scelta l’Italia e, in special modo, la Sici- città di Palermo nella Vucciria, storico merca-
lia. Il nostro è un Paese meraviglioso, pieno di to, dove gli attori sono stati immortalati tra luci,
storia e di magiche tradizioni, e la terra sicula odori e profumi di una terra unica.
con tutte le sue bellezze, è stata fotografata nel- Inorgoglisce il fatto che l’Italia, per una vol-
la serie tv più apprezzata e premiata del 2022, ta, non viene raccontata solo dal punto di vista
facendo risplendere le spiagge, il buon cibo, i della malavita organizzata come è successo in
tramonti e i panorami di una vera perla del Me- tante serie tv. In The White Lotus si celebrano,
diterraneo. La seconda stagione è ambientata finalmente, le tradizioni del nostro paese, gli usi
in un immaginario White Lotus a Taormina, e e costumi di un luogo che non dimentica il suo
quell’albergo di extra lusso fa da sfondo a una passato e, soprattutto, si celebra la genuinità del-
storia amarissima sui vizi e le virtù della “nuova le persone che sorridono alla vita nonostante i
borghesia”, ambientando nel comune vicino a problemi e un’esistenza in bilico tra cosa è giusto
Messina un racconto algido ma di straordinaria e cosa è sbagliato.
bellezza. Una serie che ha convinto sia pubblico
che critica, vincendo persino un Emmy Awards
come “miglior film o miniserie”, tanto è vero che IL WHITE LOTUS TOUR
in America si sta già ragionando a una terza sta- DI QUIIKY
gione – si vocifera che sarà ambientata in Thai- Un tour di 9 giorni e 8 notti per viaggiare
landia - dopo il folgorante successo del secondo sul set della celebre serie tv e vivere un’e-
capitolo. sperienza unica. Sul sito www.quiiky.com c’è
È una serie americana, sarcastica, grottesca e la possibilità di visitare tutte le location in un
per nulla banale, che batte cuore italiano, non viaggio attraverso la Sicilia, toccando Noto,
solo perché è gli episodi della stagione due sono Palermo e Messina. Si parte a inizio ottobre,
stati girati nel nostro Paese. Nel cast, infatti, il 5 per l’esattezza, con un itinerario di puro
spiccano tanti volti noti del cinema nostrano relax e divertimento assieme a un brand
come Sabrina Impacciatore, in un ruolo smacca- 100% LGBTQ+ friendly.

T R A V E L 41
 Dining room - Casa Cuseni

THE ARCADIA OF THE

20 CENTURY IS IN
TH

TAORMINA
Hidden from LGBTQ+ persecution, preserved from war, beloved by writers,
painters, designers, clairvoyants, Casa Cuseni is one of the Italian
enchantment places we inherit from the first homogenous family of the
1900s, depicted in a fresco symbolizing yearning for freedom and Eden.
by Letizia Strambi

I t was here that Ernest Hemingway wrote his

first short story, The Mercenaries, it was here
that Lord Bertrand Russell learned that he had
won the Nobel Prize for literature, it was here
the owner. The Kitson House was in fact a refuge
built by this painter, scion of a wealthy industrial
family from Yorkshire.
When his father died, Kitson, who was very rich,
that the greatest neoclassical painters imagined had moved to Taormina to build a refuge for ar-
the Sicilian landscape, it was here that Pablo Pi- tists, prompted in part by the work being done
casso, Salvator Dalì, Tennesse Williams, Henry there by the photographer Wilhelm von Gloeden,
Moore, Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Duilio who portrayed young men in classical poses as
Cambellotti, Tommaso Marinetti, Wilhelm von heirs to Hellenic beauty. Kitson had this villa set
Gloeden, Anatole France, Ezra Pound, David in a garden, Casa Cuseni, designed, involving
Herbert Lawrence found their place of the he- the most famous English artists and decorators
art to write, paint, sculpt, but above all, it was of the time. The main building was constructed
here that Oscar Wilde originally found refuge, between 1900 and 1905 with influences from the
just released from prison, guilty of his love affair romanticism of William Blake, Ruskin’s utopian
with Bosie, thanks to Robert Hawthorn Kitson, socialism and early 20th century mysticism.

42 A R T
Robert Hawthorn Kitson

A R T 43
 Garden landscape - Casa Cuseni

Montepulciano

The greatest treasure trove of LGBTQ+ identi-

ty can be found in this house and is the dining
room of Sir Frank Brangwyn, British Art Nou-
veau painter and engraver, the first decorator of
Luis Comfort Tiffany. homosexual man who is born with a weight on his
A room with an interior design created in 1910 shoulders (a black shadow), meets a young man
kept hidden for over a hundred years. The Art like himself in Taormina (the painter Carlo Sili-
Nouveau of the spectacular murals represents, gato), and is reconciled with his free nature, until
unique in the world, homosexuality. One hun- he conceives a family with another man.
dred years of secrecy for these frescoes that An allegory that could represent the very life of
were created, while in many places in the world Robert Hawthorn Kitson and his companion. In-
homosexuality was a crime. deed, it seems that after the Messina earthqua-
In 2019 this interior design was recognized as ke, the couple took many orphaned boys with
the world’s best example of the Arts and Craf- them, including little Francesco, considered a
ts Movement outside Britain and as a Place of son, whose tricycle built by the Futurists is pre-
Identity and Memory by the Sicilian Region. served here. But as the story of Oscar Wilde’s
When these frescoes were begun, they repre- conviction was still on everyone’s lips, and that
sented a mere dream of freedom, an ideal world of the German industrialist Friederich Alfred
condemned to the intimacy of chimeras. Krupp, (a friend of German Emperor Wilhelm
The room was known to the guests of the house, II, accused of sodomy and who took refuge in
but was kept secret until Alfred Barr, founder of Capri, where he committed suicide) the room
the MoMa in New York and a frequent visitor to was kept closed and hidden, open only to the
Casa Cuseni since 1952, gave meaning to the couple’s close friends. It was only in 2012 that
wall decorations. Barr saw in the painted figures the Secret Chamber of the Cuseni House was
the symbolic representation of the life of a young opened to the public.

44 A R T
 the House was bought in 2011 by Domenica
(Mimma) Cundari who adores this home where
Dahl, the author of The Chocolate Factory, used
to read her stories when she was four years old.
Run today by the Robert Hawthorn Kitson
Foundation, it is a permanent non-profit insti-
tution. The museum specialises in paintings
of the English Grand Tour to Sicily and the
Orient and holds the collections that belonged
to Kitson and Daphne Phelps.
Since 2016, it has been the city museum of the
City of Taormina and an Italian national mo-
nument.
Since 1948, the heir to Casa Cuseni, the psy- Casa Cuseni’s book collection has been recogni-
chiatrist and writer Daphne Phelps, a pupil of zed as a cultural asset ‘because it is a valuable
Anna Freud and friend of Albert Einstein, has source of relevant historical documentation re-
turned the house into an artist’s residence and lating to a wide range of Sicilian socio-cultural
house museum on the model of historic English aspects as well as evidence of the important
villas. A plaque at the entrance to the monument Arts and Crafts movement’.
reads: Cuseni House, built by Robert Kitson, The American Horticultural Society also reco-
preserved by Daphne Phelps. After her death, gnized the excellence of the Casa Cuseni Hi-

A R T 45
 space in the land of the Gods: Magna Graecia.
The connection with the upper world has great
strength here in a setting designed by Giaco-
mo Balla and Fortunato Depero, who created
it, inspired by the Divine Comedy. Thus, the
Villa Cuseni Garden is equipped with mikveh,
Jewish tubs for ritual bathing, seats for medita-
tion, the tree of life, reproducing a perfect Dan-
tean Paradise in complete dialogue with nature
and the starry sky above it.
Today, the Villa continues to be a meeting point
storic Garden. for artists, the same as it is today: Luis Sepul-
The creators of this garden focused on the re- veda, David Leavitt, Abraham Yehoshua, Amos
presentation of the spiritual world, esoteric Oz and many others visit or used to visit it.
symbols and geometry, and the allegorical use During the Second World War, everything here
of colors as presented in Theosophy. The artist was secured by the Sicilians who lived around
of that era has the task of awakening in huma- the house, at the risk of their own lives. The
nity the memory of its own ‘divine’ condition, beautiful villa was in fact first Fascist, then
lost after the expulsion from Eden. The aim of German headquarters, but once the war was
art is the reconquest of the lost paradise as an over, when Robert Hawthorn Kitson returned,
inner space that man can regain through ima- the citizens of Taormina handed over all the
gination. The fourth dimension, which we find objects and works of art, the writings of the
in this garden is then in theatre, in painting, in precious library that they had kept for six ye-
every form of art, is a place ‘elsewhere’, of ab- ars. An incredible story, which deserves to be
stractions, made for those who can see beyond. remembered, because without the Sicilians,
The greatest intellectuals of the last century we would not be able to enjoy this incredible
found here a laboratory for creation, a unique artistic heritage today.

46 A R T
L’ARCADIA DEL NOVECENTO
È A TAORMINA
Nascosta dalle persecuzioni LGBTQ+, preservata dalla guerra, amata da
scrittori, pittori, designer, chiaroveggenti, Casa Cuseni è uno dei luoghi
d’incanto italiani
di Letizia Strambi

F u qui che Ernest Hemingway scrisse il

suo primo racconto The Mercenaries, fu
qui che Lord Bertrand Russell seppe di aver
vinto il premio Nobel per la letteratura, fu qui
che i maggiori pittori neoclassici dipinsero il
paesaggio siciliano, fu qui che Pablo Picasso,
Salvator Dalì, Tennesse Williams, Henry Moore,
Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Duilio Cam-
bellotti, Tommaso Marinetti, Wilhelm von Glo-
eden, Anatole France, Ezra Pound, David Her-
bert Lawrence trovarono il loro luogo del cuore
per scrivere, dipingere, scolpire, ma soprattutto,
fu qui che all’origine, Oscar Wilde trovò rifugio,
appena uscito di prigione grazie a Robert Haw-
Triciclo futurista del piccolo Francesco
thorn Kitson, il proprietario. La Casa Cuseni era
infatti un rifugio costruito da questo pittore.
Alla morte del padre, Kitson, ricchissimo, si era Un’allegoria che potrebbe rappresentare la vita
trasferito a Taormina, per costruire un rifugio per stessa di Robert Hawthorn Kitson e del suo
artisti, spinto anche dal lavoro che stava facendo compagno. Sembra infatti che dopo il terremoto
qui il fotografo Wilhelm von Gloeden, che ritra- di Messina la coppia prese con sé molti ragazzi
eva giovinetti in pose classiche quali eredi della rimasti orfani, tra cui il piccolo Francesco, con-
bellezza ellenica. siderato un figlio, di cui qui si conserva il triciclo
Il più grande tesoro di identità LGBTQ+ si trova costruito dai futuristi. La stanza fu tenuta chiu-
in questa casa ed è la sala da pranzo di Sir Frank sa e nascosta, aperta solo agli amici intimi della
Brangwyn, pittore e incisore liberty britannico, coppia. Solo nel 2012, la Camera Segreta di Casa
primo decoratore di Luis Comfort Tiffany. Cuseni è stata aperta al pubblico.
Una tenuta nascosta per oltre cento anni. L’Art Gestita oggi dalla Fondazione Robert Hawthorn
Nouveau degli spettacolari murales rappresenta Kitson, è un’istituzione permanente no profit.
infatti, unica al mondo, l’omogenitorialità. Durante la seconda guerra mondiale tutto quel-
La stanza era nota agli ospiti della casa, ma fu lo che qui si trovava è stato messo al sicuro dai
tenuta segreta fino a quando Alfred Barr, fon- siciliani che vivevano nei dintorni della casa, a
datore del MoMa di New York e frequentatore rischio delle loro stesse vite. La bellissima vil-
di Casa Cuseni dal 1952, diede un significato la fu infatti prima quartier generale fascista, poi
alle decorazioni murali. Barr vide nelle figure tedesco, ma finita la guerra, al rientro di Robert
dipinte la rappresentazione simbolica della vita Hawthorn Kitson, i cittadini di Taormina riconse-
di un giovane omossessuale che nasce con un gnarono tutti gli oggetti e le opere d’arte, gli scrit-
peso sulle spalle (un’ombra nera), incontra a ti della preziosa biblioteca che avevano custodito
Taormina un giovane come lui (il pittore Carlo per sei anni. Una storia incredibile, che merita
Siligato), e si riconcilia con la sua natura libera, di essere ricordata, perché senza i siciliani, oggi
fino ad arrivare a concepire una famiglia con un non potremmo godere di questa incredibile ere-
altro uomo. dità artistica.

A R T 47
 Rafanata

DELIGHTS OF ITALY
INCREDIBLE DISHES TO DISCOVER
AT THE ‘DINNER CLUB’
From Lattume to Malandra, from Rafanata to Carciofi Moretto, from
Vaccaressi to Lasagnette di Pane Pistoccu: how to get lost in the infinite
nuances of taste and biodiversity of Italian territories
by Letizia Strambi

T he link between food and Italians is sa-

cred, but the great praise of taste, cele-
brated in a nice way in Dinner Club (available
on Prime), comes from Italian stars, who travel
Bombette, born in the ancient butcher shops in
Valle d’Itria. In the evening, shopkeepers would
light the embers and prepare them for patrons,
serving at tables in the street. It takes a certain
around Italy to discover dishes that can be uni- skill to prepare and cook them without losing the
que, even for Italians. filling. In fact, they are thin slices of capocollo
We start in the Po Delta, with risotto alla Sala- into which caciocavallo cheese and cooked ham
ma da sugo, and then land in Apulia, where we are stuffed.
discover the Malandra in Monopoli, the liver of Also in Apulia, we discover one of Italy’s oldest
a floured and fried octopus. More famous are the cheeses, Caciocavallo Podalico, made from

48 F O O D
 Caciocavallo Podalico

Sarde a beccafico Sicilian Cannolo

the milk of podalic cows, which graze among sto- In Sicily, Trapani, stop in Dattilo. Here you can find
nes and rough grasses, giving the milk a unique the best Sicilian Cannolo in the world. A village in
flavor. Here you also find an incredible fermen- the middle of nowhere, with four houses and a single
ted cheese called Amore Primitivo, because it bar where cannolo has been sold for decades. The
is kept for a long time in the marc of Primitivo ricotta seems to have this unique flavor because the
di Manduria and takes on a purple-blue color sheep’s milk from which it is made, is flavored with
in the rind, preserving delicious moulds inside. unique herbs and seeds carried by the wind on the
In Matera it is the turn of the Cazzomarro, a very hillside of the temple of Segesta, where it is still gra-
old Lucanian recipe prepared with lamb innards zed. The cannolo attracts people of all nationalities
wrapped in lamb caul with herbs. Also served to this place. In its desert streets, one enters the café
at the Dinner Club is Rafanata, a kind of tall and feels as if one is in a scene from Star Wars, with
omelette with lots of pecorino cheese and horse- people of all kinds tasting the cannoli, obviously pre-
radish, considered the poor man’s truffle, in the pared on the spot and to be eaten immediately.
Basilicata Region. This is a root with a balsamic Another stop by the Sicilian cloistered nuns to taste
and spicy taste introduced here by the Normans. the centuries-old recipes for Frutta Martorana.
Among the most successful dishes is the Cuttle- Favino, the most daring, will also bring to the table
fish Egg. Basically, it looks like an egg, but the Lattume of tuna bought in Trapani, (the sperm sac
cuttlefish shell contains the yolk, which remains of the fish), Mosciame (dried tuna fillet, a sort of
liquid and is served on a cuttlefish ink and ricotta tuna bresaola).
cream. It was Pierfrancesco Favino who brought In eastern Sicily, we discover the Vaccaressi di Pa-
Cracco to the place where it was invented by two- chino, starring Marco Giallini, now popular in the
Michelin-starred chef Pino Cuttaia, in Madia re- world thanks to the character of Rocco Schiavone.
staurant in Licata, in the province of Agrigento. These are small snails cooked with tomatoes. Mo-

F O O D 49
 Confraternita della Frittola

Gnudi

The highly prized Sacchiettu of Sila, is a Cala-

Arancini
brian delicacy, a sausage made from salami meat
cooked and sewn into pork rind. This region is
ving on, to Pippo il Barbasco, one of the largest also home to the Confraternita della Frittola,
producers of Maiorchino, a sheep’s milk che- a dish for the daring, composed of pork scraps
ese with which they hold competitions of skill cooked with Savoy cabbage. The Calabrian no-
by rolling the wheels after untying them from a velty, on the other hand, is found at Marianna
string, to see which one runs the farthest. and Aiko’s, who have initiated the Nippo-Cala-
When it comes to street food, the Sicilian fried brese cuisine, with Uramaki filled with Nduia
foods can be tasted in Catania at the Scirocco or Sardella on roll with aubergines.
fishmonger’s: Sarde a beccafico, Arancini of Ancient Calabrian dishes, on the other hand, led
swordfish and, a local specialty, Polpette of to the creation of unique dishes with sea anemo-
anchovies fennel and mint. Finally, in Sicily, nes including fritters with durum wheat flour.
in addition to saffron recipes, you can taste the Then we go to the far north, to South Tyrol, where
Helichrysum of Etna, a flower with a silvery stem we find Bauernschopsernes, a lamb stew with
and yellow petals, which smells of liquorice and potatoes and carrots, and Mosa made with milk,
is used to make soups, often with chickpeas and flour, buckwheat, a kind of pudding that is then
potatoes. drizzled with hazelnut butter, poppy seeds, sugar
In Sardinia, we discover the Lasagnetta di or cinnamon. Ladin cuisine can also be found
Pane Pistoccu with sheep ragout. The meat is here with Tutres, a kind of ravioli made with
marinated in Cannonau wine and then cooked spinach or savoy cabbage, and the ever-present
for the ragout. It is typical of the Nepente di Canederli, here prepared with beetroot, stale
Oliena area. bread, butter, onion and cheese.
The White Fig of Cilento, on the other hand, In Romagna, having passed the well-known clas-
is the basis of a salami together with citrus fruits sics, we go for the little Carciofi Moretto, a lo-
and chilly pepper. Here you will also find the cal specialty, presented au gratin with Pecorino
Maracuoccio di Lentiscosa, an ancient legu- di Fossa cheese, lemon peel and herbs.
me from the Marina di Camerota area, with which This region has a unique dish in store for us, the
the typical Maracucciata is prepared, a delicacy queen of street food: Costine di mora roma-
to be enjoyed with marinated chickpeas. gnola, whose meat has a wild flavor, smoked
In Maremma, a stop is made in Pitigliano, whe- over beech wood and marinated in sweet paprika
re the Goym Cuisine lives, a combination of and brown sugar. Of course, for street food, the
Tuscan and Jewish gastronomy, in which the ‘d.o.p. d ‘excellence’ is a must: the piadina ro-
specialty is Gnudi, Tuscan ravioli, where in ad- magnola, enjoyed with local sardines.
dition to ricotta cheese, spinach, cinnamon and Finally, amongst the earthy flavors of Romagna,
nutmeg, there is Persia, a quality of marjoram you cannot avoid tasting Animelle, from which
with an intense aroma. In Goym cuisine, there is a ragout is made to season ravioli, together with
also Buglione made with stewed meat. truffles and Fossa cheese.

50 F O O D
 DAL LATTUME ALLA MALANDRA, DALLA RAFANATA AI CARCIOFI
MORETTO, DAI VACCARESSI ALLE LASAGNETTE DI PANE PISTOCCU:

ECCO LE DELIZIE D’ITALIA

di Letizia Strambi

I l legame tra cibo e italiani è sacro, ma il

grande elogio del gusto, celebrato in modo
simpatico in Dinner Club (disponibile su Prime)
si ha grazie a delle star italiane che si sposta-
oggi si pascola. Il cannolo attira in questo luogo
persone di ogni nazionalità. In questo deserto di
strada si entra dentro il bar e sembra di esse-
re in una scena di Guerre Stellari, con persone
di ogni tipo ad assaggiare i cannoli, ovviamente
no in giro in Italia a scoprire piatti che possono preparati sul momento e da mangiare subito.
rivelarsi una scoperta persino per gli italiani. In Sicilia Orientale scopriamo invece i Vac-
Si parte dalla Puglia dove scopriamo la Malan- caressi di Pachino, con Marco Giallini, ormai
dra a Monopoli, fegato del polpo infarinato e popolare nel mondo grazie al personaggio di
fritto. Più note le Bombette, nate nelle antiche Rocco Schiavone. Si tratta di piccole lumache
macellerie della Valle d’Itria. cucinate con i pomodori. Si passa poi da Pip-
Sempre in Puglia si trova anche un incredibi- po il Barbasco, uno dei più grandi produttori di
le formaggio fermentato che si chiama Amore Maiorchino, un formaggio di pecora.
Primitivo, perché si tiene a lungo dentro le vi- Per lo street food vincono i fritti siciliani degu-
nacce del Primitivo di Manduria e prende il co- stabili a Catania nella pescheria Scirocco: Sar-
lore viola-blu nella crosta conservando all’in- de a beccafico, Arancini di pesce spada e,
terno muffe deliziose. specialità del luogo, Polpette di alici finoc-
A Matera è la volta del Cazzomarro, una ri- chietto e menta. Infine, in Sicilia, oltre alle
cetta antichissima della Lucania preparate ricette allo zafferano, si può gustare l’Elicriso
con le interiora di agnello avvolta nell’omento dell’Etna, un fiore dallo stelo argentato e dai
di agnello con gli odori. Tra i piatti di maggior petali gialli, che sa di liquirizia, con cui si rea-
successo l’Uovo di seppia. In sostanza sembra lizzano zuppe, spesso con ceci e patate.
un uovo, ma l’involucro è costituito dalla sep- In Sardegna scopriamo la Lasagnetta di Pane
pia che contiene il tuorlo che rimane liquido e Pistoccu con ragù di pecora. La carne viene
viene servito su una crema di nero di seppia e marinata nel vino Cannonau e poi successiva-
ricotta. mente cotta per il ragù.
In Sicilia, a Trapani, si fa tappa a Dattilo. Qui Il Fico bianco del Cilento è invece alla base
si trova il miglior Cannolo siciliano del mon- di un salame assieme agli agrumi e al peperon-
do. Un Paese nel nulla, con quattro case e un cino.
solo bar dove si vende da decenni il cannolo. In Maremma si fa tappa a Pitigliano, dove vive
La ricotta sembra abbia questo sapore unico la Cucina Goym, un connubio tra la gastronomia
perché il latte di pecora da cui si produce è aro- Toscana ed ebraica, in cui la specialità sono gli
matizzato da erbe uniche, semi portati dal vento Gnudi.
sulla collina del tempio di Segesta, dove ancora Antichissimi i piatti poveri calabresi che han-
no portato alla creazione di piatti unici con le
Anemoni di mare tra cui le frittelle con farine
di grano duro.
Si va poi nell’estremo Nord, nel Sud Tirolo dove
si trova il Bauernschopsernes, uno stufato di
agnello con patate e carote, e la Mosa fatta con
latte, farina, grano saraceno, una sorta di budi-
no che poi si irrora con burro di nocciola, semi
di papavero, zucchero o cannella.
Infine, tra i sapori di terra della Romagna, non
si può evitare di assaggiare le Animelle, da cui
si ricava un ragù per condire i ravioli assieme
Bauernschopsernes
al tartufo e il formaggio di fossa.

F O O D 51
What s INN
LOCANDA DELL’ARTE

L ocanda dell’Arte is a small boutique hotel

in the middle of the Monferrato hills, Une-
sco Heritage in Piedmont, Italy. Surrounded by
lar has been converted into a meeting room
which often turns into art gallery, open also
to the local community. A beautiful swimming
vineyards and fruit trees, the Locanda is a tiny pool indoor and a stunning terrace on the val-
jewel of hospitality, which has come to life after ley, where your eyes run to the Alps, are part
a huge restoration of the local kindergarten in of this magical scenery. A getaway for lovers,
Solonghello. Its 16 rooms are all unique, pain- for those who love silence and nature and like
ted in colors recalling the nature outside and to taste local recipes, which are served in the
facing the inner green court. Original paintings restaurant indoor. “If you saw what I am
coming from several art galleries in Italy give seeing, you’d tell me to stay” says the web-
an extra allure to the place.  A red-brick cel- site....and it is true.

Locanda dell’Arte

Locanda dell’Arte Locanda dell’Arte

52 W H A T ’ S I N N
Palazzo Portinari Salviati

PALAZZO PORTINARI SALVIATI Palazzo Portinari Salviati

FLORENCE

A stunning five star boutique hotel close to

Florence center. Its 13 luxury suites are
a diving experience, into Renaissance. The re-
storation of this palace, originally belonged
to Family Portinari (the same family to which
Dante Alighieri’s Beatrice refers to, in his Divi-
ne Comedy) has given new life to this treasure
of art.  Today the Palazzo houses  elegant suites
with frescoes  from the 1700’s and luxurious
apartments overlooking the heart of the city with
breathtaking views of the Duomo and its majestic
Brunelleschi dome. A 500 sq metres SPA wel-
comes in the very heart of Florence, as well as
a Michelin-starred restaurant, offering the best
Tuscan cuisine.

Capitano Collection

CAPITANO COLLECTION

L ocated in the small medieval village of San

Quirico (Tuscany), Capitano Collection is
made up of Luxury and Design Boutique Hotels,
villas, palaces, and historic houses. It is a very
welcoming and inclusive complex that includes
50 locations between elegant and different ro-
oms and suites designed to enable guests to meet
their personal and exclusive needs.

W H A T ’ S I N N 53
 Palazzo Moresco

PALAZZO MORESCO

Located in Santa Marinella,  just 30 minutes

from Rome, Palazzo Moresco is an Art Nouve-
au palace influenced by Moorish-Sicilian style.
It offers Luxury Suites and Apartments tasteful-
ly furnished in Italian style. Palazzo Moresco is
also the perfect location to celebrate the event
you have always dreamed of! It can accommoda-
te any celebration, from weddings, anniversaries,
Palazzo Moresco
birthdays, and banquets.

Palazzo Moresco

Palazzo Moresco Palazzo Moresco

54 W H A T ’ S I N N
Saturday 20 MAY 2023
IN NICE FOR THE
LOU QUEERNAVAL
An open event, an opportunity to visit the pearl of the Côte d’Azur. Here
are all the indications for your stay in the ‘Nice Irisée Naturellement’

56 T R A V E L
I t is the first LGBTQ+ carnival in France,
a popular event, open to all, promoting the
values of inclusion. It is the Lou Queernaval
and is part of the Nice Carnival, the third larg-
Nice Côte d’Azur, it is celebrated in Place Mas-
sena, and more than 150 ‘carnavaliers’ par-
ticipate. Opening the parade, to the rhythm of
samba, are a few angels followed by other floats
est of its kind in the world, which celebrated its and groups of masked figures on foot, with over
150th anniversary this year. 15,000 people in the stands applauding.
Feathers, glitters and sequins are the stars of Nice is indeed a rainbow city, so much so that
this colourful event, attended by shining drag the Metropolitan Tourist Office, a member of
queens and many artists. the IGLTA, created the Nice Irisée Naturelle-
Launched in 2015, after a three-year hiatus, Lou ment label. Those who display this logo have
Queernaval returned in 2023, attracting guests signed a charter and participated in a training
from all over the world. Organised in partner- programme in partnership with the Nice Côte
ship with the City of Nice and the Metropolis d’Azur LGBT Centre and local associations.

T R A V E L 57
AN IDEAL ITINERARY
The first unmissable stop in Nice is its beau-
tiful Promenade des Anglais, a triumph of Art
Nouveau architecture completely restored for
its Unesco candidacy. In fact, since July 2021,
Nice has been a World Heritage Site as the
‘Winter Resort City of the Riviera’, for its urban
beauty, framed by exotic palm trees, and the © Lou Queernaval 2023 Tourism Nice
charm of the old town. A stop at the flower mar-
ket is a must, and perhaps an aperitif at Place
Masséna, also the site of Carnival. From here,
you can climb up the Castle Hill, where there is
a wonderful park overlooking the beach.
The best-known museums are the Matisse and
Marc Chagall museums, but if you love pho-
tography, here you will find the Charles Nègre
Museum of Photography, housed in a distinctive
Art Deco building. Don’t miss the Museum of
WHERE TO EAT
Modern and Contemporary Art in a spectacu-
lar neoclassical building flanked by four towers CHEZ ACCHIARDO
covered in white Carrara marble. It is famous not only for its excellent
The Côte d’Azur Observatory is another stop for Niçoise cuisine, but also for one of the
the curious. With its Universarium, it offers the owners, the charming Jean François.
opportunity to discover the history of modern
astronomy and enjoy a unique view of the stars. RESTAURANT LE ROSSETTI
Located in the Petit Marais district, between Home-made Mediterranean cuisine,
Place Garibaldi and the port, it is one of the nestled in the old town.
trendiest neighbourhoods in Nice, known for its
FEEL ME
restaurants and nightlife.
Gay friendly restaurant with the label
‘Nice - A Natural Iridescence’.
WHERE TO STAY LE SUNSET RESTAURANT AND BAR where
you can watch entertaining drag shows.
NOVOTEL NICE CENTRE
It overlooks the Promenade des Anglais
It has a rooftop with a swimming pool and
and is perfect at sunset.
a 360° view of the old town, the sea and
the hills. It is close to Place Garibaldi, the
port, the flower market and the beach. WHAT BEACHES
Castel Plage is the LGBTQ+ beach par
ANANTARA PLAZA NICE HOTEL excellence and is located in the centre of
An architectural jewel of the Belle Époque Nice. It is a private facility with a bar and
that recently reopened its doors after restaurant. The ambience is very chic, it
renovation. It has the label ‘Nice- A has a private terrace and is frequented by
Natural Iridescence’. the local gay community and tourists.

58 T R A V E L
NIGHTLIFE

LE GLAM
Disco pub with an excellent music
selection where you can have fun and
make new friends.
OTHER GAY FRIENDLY EVENTS
THE BITCH
A quiet pub with a calm atmosphere RENCONTRES IN&OUT AND ZEFESTIVAL
and a good selection of beers and Two LGBTQ+ cinema events open each
cocktails. year for the community. They are usually in
April.
MALABAR
In the old town frequented by adults PINK PARADE
with cruising activities. A condom On the first Saturday in July, the French
is given with a drink voucher at the Riviera Pride Parade takes place along
entrance, considering the dark room, the Promenade des Anglais. People can
gloryhole and private booths. dance, sing and have fun in the festive
parade that ends with an aperitif for all.
RAINBOW BAR
A small, newly established bar with DOLLY PARTY
rainbow-coloured outdoor tables. Here This summer sees two editions of this event
you must enjoy the rainbow cocktail with cocktails, DJ sets, entertainment, and
after which the bar is named. performances by outdoor artists.

LE SIX SO FETISH NICE

Le Six is another very small, historic Annual fetish event usually held in
club in Nice where on Saturday nights November.
there is the unmissable shower show.
WHERE TO SHOP
L’OMÉGA CLUB
Nightclub of reference for Nice’s gay GALERIES LAFAYETTE
community. Appreciated for its staff and The world’s best-known French
service, as well as for the selection of department store is worth a visit to find
cocktails, friendly staff, music and well- everything beautiful that France has to
made cocktails. offer, from clothing to souvenirs.

T R A V E L 59
 A NIZZA PER IL
LOU QUEERNAVAL
Una manifestazione aperta, un’occasione per visitare la
perla della Costa Azzurra. Tutte le indicazioni per un
soggiorno nella Nice Irisée Naturellement

È il primo carnevale LGBTQ+ in Francia,

un evento popolare, aperto a tutti, atto a
promuove i valori della condivisione dell’inclu-
sione. È il Lou Queernaval e si inserisce nelle
manifestazioni del Carnevale di Nizza, terzo al
mondo che ha celebrato quest’anno il suo 150°
anniversario.
Lanciato nel 2015, dopo tre anni di fermo, il Lou
Queernaval è tornato nel 2023 attirando ospiti
da tutto il mondo.
Nizza è una città arcobaleno, tanto che  l’Ufficio
del Turismo Metropolitano, membro dell’IGLTA,
ha creato il marchio Nice Irisée Naturellement.

UN ITINERARIO IDEALE
Prima tappa immancabile a Nizza è la sua bel-
lissima Promenade des Anglais, un trionfo di ar-
chitettura liberty completamente restaurata per
la candidatura Unesco. Dal luglio 2021 Nizza è NIGHTLIFE
infatti divenuta Patrimonio dell’Umanità  come
“Città stazione invernale della Riviera”. LE GLAM
Disco pub con ottima selezione
I musei più noti sono quello di Matisse e di Marc
musicale dove divertirsi e fare nuove
Chagall, ma se amate la fotografia qui trovate il
amicizie.
Museo della fotografia Charles Nègre.
L’Osservatorio della Costa Azzurra è un’altra THE BITCH
tappa per curiosi Pub tranquillo con atmosfera calma e
Il quartiere LGBTQ+ si trova nel Distretto Petit buona selezione di birre e cocktail.
Marais, tra Piazza Garibaldi e il porto, è uno dei
quartieri più alla moda di Nizza, noto per i suoi RAINBOW BAR
ristoranti e la vita notturna. Piccolo bar nato da poco con i tavoli
all’aperto colorati arcobaleno. Qui
bisogna gustare il cocktail rainbow da
cui prende il nome il locale.
QUALI SPIAGGE
Castel Plage è la spiaggia LGBTQ+ L’OMÉGA CLUB
per eccellenza e si trova nel centro di Discoteca di riferimento comunità gay
Nizza. È una struttura privata con bar di Nizza. Apprezzato per lo staff e
e ristorante. L’ambiente è molto chic, ha il servizio, oltre che per la selezione
una terrazza privata ed è frequentata dei cocktail gentilezza dello staff, la
dalla comunità gay locale e dai turisti. musica e i cocktail fatti a regola d’arte.

60 T R A V E L
GAY OWNED
HOTEL CLOSED
TO ROME
An Art Nouveau palace, influenced
by moorish-sicilian style, located
on the seaside, Santa Marinella,
called “The pearl of Tyrrhenian
sea” for its crystal clear water at
just 30 minutes from Rome!

palazzomoresco.com
 ELTA IS BORN
a light among
the shadows
W inds of cultural regression are swee-
ping the globe, and even the Europe-
an continent is not escaping this backward step.
Populism increasingly animates the politics re-
For this reason, apart from the purely economic
aspect of course, after the European LGBTQ+
Tourism General States held in Milan in April
2022, a number of tourism realities chose to set
warded in elections, so in the government of some up ELTA - European LGBTQ Travel Alliance.
countries, what was once propaganda, has become Among these promoters AITGL - Ente Nazionale
a programmatic idea centered on nostalgia for a Turismo LGBTQ, was one which I have the ho-
type of society that marked the darkest shadows of nour to chair. Today there are many companies
our history. A fundamentalism that would like to and tourist destinations that in the first months
be conservative, but is prevented from being so, in after its foundation have chosen to join ELTA’s
a cultural identity that has now profoundly chan- project to make Europe the leading LGBTQ tou-
ged, in which certain forcings appear anachroni- rist destination: Accor Hotels, Sonders&Beach,
stic distortions. Best Western, ENIT Agenzia Nazionale del Turi-
The fear is that this ideological violence will turn smo, EasyJet, Visit Malta, Destination Florence
into law. Already, the first institutional ostracisms CVB, Federturismo Confindustria.
against the freedom of LGBTQ communities are At the basis of ELTA’s foundation is the as-
appearing, conspiracy theories of ‘ethnic substitu- sumption that through economic leverage one
tion’ are emerging, and episodes of racially moti- can contribute, in a continuous and assiduous
vated attacks are multiplying in Europe. dialogue with European institutions, to promo-
Fear and the fight against the ‘different’ return, when ting inclusive hospitality, that creates a culture of
gender inclusion and equity were finally being pro- equity and respect for all diversities through the
moted, also through community initiatives. encounter among people of different nationalities.

Alessio Virgili
Presidente AITGL Ente Italiano Turismo LGBTQ+

NASCE ELTA UNA LUCE TRA LE OMBRE

V enti di regressione culturale stanno attra-

versando tutto il globo, e anche il continen-
te Europeo non si sottrae a questo passo indietro.
Torna la paura e la lotta al “diverso” mentre si era
Tra questi promotori anche AITGL - Ente Nazionale
Turismo LGBTQ, che mi onoro di presiedere. Oggi
sono molte le aziende e le destinazioni turistiche
che hanno scelto di aderire a ELTA: Accor Hotels,
finalmente giunti, anche con iniziative comunitarie, Sonders&Beach, Best Western, ENIT Agenzia Na-
a promuovere l’inclusione di genere e l’equità. zionale del Turismo, EasyJet, Visit Malta, Destina-
Per questo motivo dopo gli Stati Generali Europei tion Florence CVB, Federturismo Confindustria.
del Turismo LGBTQ+ tenutisi a Milano ad aprile del Alla base della fondazione di ELTA c’è l’assunto
2022, alcune realtà turistiche hanno scelto di dare che con la leva economica si possa contribuire a
vita ad ELTA - European LGBTQ Travel Alliance. promuovere un’ospitalità inclusiva.

62 E D I T O R I A L
 FIRENZE

Nel cuore del centro storico di Firenze,

a pochi passi da San Frediano,
in una zona ricca di vita notturna
e di locali di tendenza,
si trova un hotel dove
l’accoglienza
è inclusiva.

GRAND HOTEL ADRIATICO

Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 - 50123 FIRENZE (Italy)
Ph. +39 055 27931 - [email protected]
www.hoteladriatico.it
 ITALY,
A WEDDING
PLACE
O fficially Italy is still an homophobic
country.It is unfortunately true, regard-
ing the recent, few and light rules supporting
the LGBTQ+ community.
But the general atmosphere changed a lot
in the last decades, most of the people are
sincerely gay friendly, excluding in specific
areas that everybody can tell you which are
No marriage, but only civil partnership; no and where.
stepchild adoption for already existing babies; The point is that Italians find diffuculties to
no adoption at all for new babies; no artificial plan and realize homosexual dedicated in-
reproduction for gay and lesbian couples; no ex- frastructure, and prefer to treat everybody
plicit criminal law to prosecute hate attack and equally.
sexual discrimination. At the end, also without written laws and
Does it mean that Italy for rainbow people must rights, they generally know how to make you
considered unfriendly and to be avoided? feel absolutely normal.
Not at all. The point is that the country still fac- Like everybody actually is in his natural di-
es many obstacles to formalize equality and jus- versity.
tice for all the genders and sexual orientations. That is the reason why, paradoxally and
That’s because the presence of Vatican, the finally, Italy is the right place to visit, to
rightest governement ruling now, the very old fall in love, to have fun, and, why not, to
age of the majority of the population. marry in splendid locations.

Alessandro Cecchi Paone

@cecchi.paone
Anchorman, University Professor, writer,
human and lgbtq+ activist, IGLTA italian Ambassador

64 E D I T O R I A L *