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Practical Forging and Art Smithing
Practical Forging and Art Smithing
ART SMITHfN 1
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Hate Qfalbgc of Agriculture
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Practical Forging and
Art Smithing
THOMAS F. GOOGERTY
Milwaukee, Wis
The Bruce Publishing Company
Copyright, 1915
The Bruce Publishing Company
INTRODUCTION
THE present
industrial arts has
demand for school instruction
made it necessary for the
in the
teach-
have that knowledge of materials
ers of industries to
and methods which can only result from long and care-
ful experience with the materials of industry.
This book is the result of a life of such experience
by a man who is now recognized as a master craftsman
in wrought metal.
The author's work in wrought iron is comparable
in design and finish to the best work that has been pro-
duced in that material.
Some pieces of the best German work are before
me as Imake this statement and tho more intricate
they are no better in execution and far less suitable to
the material in design than the pieces illustrated in this
book which I have seen in process of execution and in
the finished form.
The author has moreover been a teacher of wrought
metal work for many years.
This experience is reflected in the sequence of dif-
ficulty presented by the exercises and the clear, simple
statement of the text.
With such clear and exact statement and with such
profuse illustration it is evident that the metal worker
can gather much from
of the author's long experience
thisbook and take many a short cut to success in an
accomplishment to which there can be no royal road.
But the effectiveness of an applied art is measured
best by its expression of purpose within the limitations
of the material used.
4 INTRODUCTION— Continued
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER I. Page
The Forge — — —
Forge Tools The Anvil Anvil Tools Making the Fire —
— —
Cleaning the Fire Welding Flux and Its Uses 7
CHAPTER II.
Electric — —
Welding Oxy-acetylene Gas Welding The Fagot Weld The
— — —
—
——
—
Separate Heat Weld Scarfing Upsetting Making the Weld Lap
—
Welding without Scarfing Jump Welding Butt Weld Split
—
Welding Corner Weld—T-Weld 22
CHAPTER III.
Corner Weld —Brazing—Fagot Weld—Fuming a Loose Eye—Hammock
—Finishing Wrought Iron—S-Link—Welded Eye Pin
Hook 36
CHAPTER IV.
Staples —Open Links—Welded Chain Lines—Punching—A Grab Hook 46
CHAPTER V.
Bolts —Cupping Tool—Gate Hook— Hay Hook —Welded Ring—Expan-
sion of Heated Iron 54
CHAPTER VI.
Making Tongs —PuddlingSteel
—Pig IronCrucible —The Bessemer Process—The Open
—The Cementation Process
Hearth Process —
Tempering 60
CHAPTER VII.
Making a Flat Cold Chisel —Spring — —Welding
Tempering Steel —Case
Hardening — ——
Coloring Steel Annealing Making a Scratch Awl
Making a Center Punch Making a Hand Punch High Speed —
—
Steel Annealing High Speed Steel 70
ART SMITHING
CHAPTER VIII.
Wrought Iron Work — Making a Wrought Iron Leaf—Making a Volute
Scroll—Grilles 83
CHAPTER IX.
Twisting —Braiding— Making a Fire Shovel 93
CHAPTER X.
Making a Door Latch —Making a Hinge—Making a Candle Stick 99
CHAPTER XI.
Making a Drawer Pull —Chasing— Making a Door Knocker—Repousse 107
Perforated Decoration
CHAPTER XII.
Making a Hat and Coat Hook —A Fuller —Jump Welding — Making a
Wall Hook 117
CHAPTER XIII.
Making a Toasting Fork— Inlaying 124
CHAPTER XIV.
Making a Lantern —Making a Wall Lamp 130
CHAPTER XV.
Making a Portable Lamp 139
PRACTICAL FORGING
CHAPTER I.
haust fan takes away the gas and smoke thru an opening
at the bottom of the hood, and thru a large pipe which
continues under the floor and out thru a flue. The hood
*©
Fig. 3. Anvil.
made from the same stock as the poker and is made with
an eye at one end and a flat hook at the other. It is
used to scrape the coal and coke onto the fire, and to
move pieces of coke or coal, so that the iron may be seen
while heating.
The
anvil should be of wrought iron with a steel
face, weighing about 125 pounds. This is large enough
for any work being done in manual training schools.
In the school shop the anvils should all be of the same
size and weight so that any tool used with them will
fit into any square hole. In factories where anvils are
made, they are forged from wrought iron or soft steel,
with a carbon steel face welded on; some are cast steel
thruout and others are cast iron with a steel face. The
face is generally three-quarters inch thick, and is hardened
ARRANGEMENT OF FORGE AND ANVIL 11
-iQi *£t K-
12 PRACTICAL FORGING
r-Pein
Pein or Ball
Handle ^ x
Handle
B5T
Inner
Edae &=A-A
Face Face
Fig. 5. Hammer. Fig. 6. Sledge.
MrmnTip
Fig. 7. Hardie.
Fig. 9. Punch.
cs 3
Fig. 10. Center Punch.
GENERAL FORGE TOOLS 13
pr\
) 6
A
heading tool is made from a flat piece of soft
steelwith a hole in one end. Sometimes a carbon steel
face is welded on. The heading tool is used mostly
16 PRACTICAL FORGING
up
Fig. 19.
Cast Iron Swage Block.
If two pieces
of iron are placed in the fire and
heated, they become gradually softer until they
will
reach a state where the metal has become sticky. If
touched together the two pieces will stick. This is
what is known as welding heat. If they were taken to
the anvil and hammered while in this condition they
would unite and become one piece. This would be called
welding. All metals cannot be welded. Iron, soft
steel, low-carbon tool steel and spring steel can be welded.
WELDING 21
CHAPTER II.
Electric —
Welding Oxy-acetylene Gas Welding The Fagot Weld —
— —
The Separate Heat Weld Scarfing Upsetting Making the —
—
Weld Lap Welding Without Scarfing Jump Welding Butt — —
Weld—Split Welding— Comer Weld—T Weld.
A RAPID blast
outer part of the metal
on the start,
first
Fig. 21.
ft
3P
Fig. 24. Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
Fig. 27.
Fig. 28.
out leaving the pieces thin, or the lapping too long when
welded. Scarfs should not be made concave.
Notice in Figure 27, the incorrect way of scarfing
and in Figure 28, the correct way.
The scarfs must not be made too long; this is a
common fault with all beginners and one to avoid.
MAKING THE WELD 27
the points of the scarf are heating too fast for the body,
the pieces must be pushed thru the fire a little farther.
28 PRACTICAL FORGING
Lrfr Hand
Fig. 29.
Anvi!
Fig. 30.
Jump Welding.
For example, a piece like the one shown in Figure
31, is to be made by welding. The pieces should be
prepared as shown in Figure 32. The square piece is
1" by 1" by 6", the fiat
Fig. 31.
^ >,
Fig. 32.
JUMP WELDING 31
Butt Weld.
Iron may be welded by butting the ends together.
In doing this, the bars must be long enough so that they
can be handled without tongs. For instance, two bars
Anvil
j
Fig. 33.
of one-inch round stock, one five feet long and the other
shorter are to be welded. This size isabout as light as
can be welded with this method. The ends are heated
and upset a little making them a little high in the center
so that when they are placed together, the contact is in
32 PRACTICAL FORGING
Split Welding.
A
Fig. 34. Fig. 35.
Corner Weld.
In Figure 41 is shown an angle made by welding
on the corner; this is called a corner weld. It is generally
made by using square or fiat stock. Figure 42 shows the
I L.
T-Weld.
The scarfs for T- welds are made in just the same
manner as for the corner weld, excepting that one scarf
is in the center of the bar.
See Figure 43.
In taking the pieces from the fire to the anvil, the
one scarfed in the center is handled with the tongs in
CORNER WELDING 35
Fig. 43.
o .
CHAPTER III.
heated and cut about half thru from one side with a hot
chisel. The bar is then heated and bent to about a
FIG-** rfj.
D
Fig. 44-45.
Brazing.
Iron and steel can be fastened together by brazing.
In doing this, the ends are tapered or dove-tailed to-
36
—
CORNER WELDING 37
a
Anvil
*>!?
Fig. 46-47.
In position to weld
kinch square
Ends Beveled
Ring Formed
Fig. 48.
ing it over the horn of the anvil and not on a ring man-
rig. 49.
Exercise No. 2. •
%,'Jtock
-7i-
Fig. 50.
^ C
Fig. 53.
turned up as shown.
^ Fig. 54.
42 PRACTICAL FORGING
Finishing.
To finish wrought iron, all of the scale and dirt
should be scraped off with an old file while the piece is
\ m v i
WELDED EYE PIN 43
one-half of the
bar. This is a sim-
ple link to make.
The only thing to
be careful about
is to not destroy
Fig. 58.
<§)
mered over the outer edge of the anvil, as shown in
Figure 59. The piece is now turned end and
for end,
jogged down again with the ball of the hammer. See
Figure 60. The piece should now look like the drawing
in Figure 61. The center of the piece is heated and
hammered over the horn of the anvil to make the ring
round and to bring the shanks together. See Figure 62.
In welding, the piece is caught by the ring with a
flat pair of tongs. See Figure 63. It is now placed in
44 PRACTICAL FORGING
Exercise No. 6.
STAPLES are used for hasps, gate hooks, and for var-
ious other purposes. They are made from all sizes
the anvil.
In drawing any piece of stock to a tapered point,
the taper should not be hamraered on one side con-
tinuously and, when turned over, 'hammered back again.
To have a taper on all four sides" alike, the barmust be
40
WELDED CHAIN LINK 47
Fig. 68.
raised the proper distance and not laid flat on the anvil.
Figure 67 illustrates the wrong way and Figure 68, the
correct way.
Exercise No. 7.
l*i
® y k
k
—
48 PRACTICAL FORGING
"U" shape. See Figure 74. The ends are now heated
and scarfed by setting them on the anvil as shown in
Figure 75. The iron is then struck on top with the
hand hammer. After each blow, it is moved away from
the anvil just a little, giving the end a bevel, so that,
when finished, the scarf consists of a series of slanting
notches.
In scarfing, both ends of the links are set on the
anvil. The end of the one on the right hand side must
not be moved when scarfing the other. After each
WELDED CHAIN LINK 49
Scarf here
Fig. 75.
Tig. 76.
^ In making chains,
do not weld two single
links and then one be-
tween them. Weld a
link on the end of the
chain and keep re-
w Fig. 77.
w peating until finished.
Exercise No.
Punching holes thru
9.
Fig. 78.
Fig. 82.
52 PRACTICAL FORGING
1 1
GRAB HOOK 53
Fig. 86.
&
o
Fig. 87.
CHAPTER V.
Bolts —Capping — —
Tool Gate Hook Hay Hook- -Welded Ring-
Expansion of Heated Iron.
BOLTS 55
the collar is cold and the bar is hot. When the collar is
c^ ^
Fig. 89.
,, ir ,
i(l
with a half round depression
in one end. See Figure 89.
The heads of bolts can be beveled with the ham-
mer, instead of with a cupping tool. Figure 90 shows
a tool to be used in the vise to make heads on light
rods. The rod is heated and inserted into the hole;
then the vise is tightened after which the ends are
hammered down.
K—
—
HAY HOOK 57
CHAPTER VI.
— — —
Marking Tongs Pig Iron Puddling The Bessemer Process
— —
The Open Hearth Process Crucible Steel The Cementation
Process —Tempering.
Exercise No. 16.
forging tongs, stock f-in. square of Norway or
INSwedish iron may
be used, as it is much easier for
a beginner in welding the handle on to the jaws. Soft
steel may be used later on if desired. Figure 100 shows
*-/£-H
62 PRACTICAL FORGING
they are cut in the center and the handles are welded
on. When the handles are well upset and scarfed, the
shanks of the jaws are drawn to equal size. Care must
be taken in having the scarfed ends equal in size or a
BLACKSMITH'S TONGS • 63
Anv/i
Fig. 108.
Pig Iron.
Pig iron ismade by smelting the iron ore in a
blast furnace. The ore is charged in a furnace mixed
with lime stone as a flux, and melted by using coke
or coal as fuel. The resulting metal is called pig iron.
It contains from three to two
five per cent of carbon,
to four per cent of silicon and various small amounts
of sulphur, phosphorus and manganese.
Puddling.
Wrought iron is made by melting the pig iron in
a puddling furnace; about one-half ton is charged at
Bessemer Process.
In making steel by the Bessemer process, the pig
iron is put into a large pear shaped vessel called the con-
The
crucible process enables the manufacture of
steel to almost exact analysis and insures a clean and
pure material. It also absorbs the carbon much faster
than steel made the old way.
In the school forge shop, the tool steel used should
be of an inexpensive kind. High priced steel should
not be used as more or less is wasted by the pupils in
CHAPTER VII.
A GOOD
shop,
cold chisel
and one that
is
is very
fore, it should be made with the greatest care.
much
in a
an indispensable tool
There-
abused.
In
the forging of a good chisel a piece of f-in. octagonal
tool steel, from 75 to 95 point carbon, is used. The
piece is cut six inches long. In doing this the bar may
Fig. 109.
Fig. 110.
72 PRACTICAL FORGING
f^tv
"
^ Tempering increases the tool's elas-
ticity and strength, and -reduces
the brittleness. The temper color
will show just a faint yellow
against the edge of the remaining
I heat that was left in the tool after
hardening.
In hardening the tool, it is
heated 2 J inches of its length and
1| inches is cooled in water to
harden. The remaining heat grad-
ually runs thruout the whole chisel
and may be noted by the faint yel-
low color on the bright part of
the tool traveling towards the cut-
ting end. This faint yellow temper
color, due to the heat and air, is
Spring Tempering.
Welding Steel.
Anvil
Annealing.
A piece of metal of any kind is said to be "an-
nealed" when made very soft. Steel should be annealed
before it is filed, drilled, or machined, as it is a very
hard metal to work when cold. The method of an-
nealing is first to heat the piece to a red heat. It is
then covered with warm, slacked lime so that the air will
—
78 PRACTICAL FORGING
stock /f -S
/#-
2£ :m:
-<?*"-
7£
Fig. 118. Scratch Awl.
HAND PUNCHES 79
Figure 122 shows the size of stock for a punch that will
be useful in the school shop, and Figure 123 shows
the completed punch. It is made in the same manner
as described for the center-punch. This punch must not
be tempered. For punching square holes the punch
is drawn square, and the ends of all hand-punches are
Fig. 2.
Exercise No. 1.
ABC
curves than wrought iron.
Fig. 7. Volute Scrolls.
I 7^ shown in Figure 9A
JO" and B, to form the
eye. It is then heated
for a considerable
part of its length and
rolled up as shown at
Fig. 8. C. If any kinks get
Fig. 9.
and the three pieces cut. The two short ones are
upset; and one is laid on top of the other; then heated
and welded at the same time they are scarfed. The
92 ART SMITHING
Fig. 13.
WISTING. A
T nine inches long,
piece of one-half inch square stock,
is heated its entire length, one end
Fig. 14.
inches wide and twelve inches long may be set into the
coal box, having coal underand around it to hold it in
place. This makes a very handy block on which to
bump up light pieces of metal or to straighten metal.
Exercise No. 3.
~1 ->>|C0 Z32I
f~_
22"
**f 6'£
Fig, 15.
Fig. 16.
0- AVNWSVM
X
Fig. 17. Poker Handles.
ctun cf ftoac/le
Exercise No. 4.
Shovel. —Figure 18 shows the dimensions and form
of the exercise. In making the handle, f-in. square
stock is used. The piece is cut 25 inches long. On
one end the piece is upset considerably in order to get
a good sized head. Five inches from the end of the head
a line is cut on four sides with a chisel. This part is
Fig. 20.
Exercise No. 5.
q n.o
Fig. 22.
Fig. 23.
f"
DOOR LATCH 101
Fig. 25.
r 1
L
102 ART SMITHING
Fig. 27.
Fig. 28.
^b
C30i] ~Z2
fteadyto we/d,
Fig. 2!)
Exercise No. 6.
—*^-t—
?#"
,-t
ile-^-J
.
0 Fig. 31.
D.
Candle Stick
Fig. 32.
CHAPTER XI.
Making a Drawei Pull — Chasing — Making a Door-knocker
Repousse — Perforated Decoration.
Exercise No. 7.
Fig. 33.
Drawer Jfcmalie,
the holes drilled, and the lugs riveted into the plate.
When riveting the lugs, they are caught in a vise, the
plate set on and the tenons are riveted tight into the
DRAWER PULL 109
fihasin o.
Fig. 38.
Fi K . 39.
Exercise No. 8.
knocker. The plate is cut out and the line around the
edge is chased with a tool. The chasing tool is simply
a cold chisel ground to a short bevel and rounded some-
what like a fuller, as shown in Figure 41. A short
>%
<0
Chased. Jme
D HammerA
*-/#-.
chisel is used for cold work and a longer one for hot
work. The chasing can be done while the metal is cold.
If it is to be very deep or wide the plate is heated and
a longer chisel is used. The lug at Figure 42 is made
and riveted into the plate. The top of the hammer is
filed to straddle it. A hole is then drilled and a rivet
put thru. Holes are drilled around the edge of the plate
for screws or nails.
112 ART SMITHING
fTS
tiHok
-.-*--
ir-ft-i %
Fig. 41. Fig 42.
In Figure 45 is
shown an interior
door knocker. It
is backed up with
colored leather.
The plates are
made of |-in. thick,
soft steel. After the
plates are cut out,
the openings are
marked with a slate
pencil and gone
over with a short
cold chisel to mark
them. The plate is
Fig. 46.
Fig. 47.
Exercise No. 9.
OOZZZiSZZZZZfflZ.
The fuller is then set on the cut lines and struck with
the hand hammer, chasing the tool to the ends of the
lines. This work can, also, be done to advantage by
c -m. *w I
H- to
-9
*r
U -8' <?%-
Fig. 51.
<i
Fig. 52.
Fig. 53.
4 1
Fig. 54.
Fig. 55.
Fig. 56.
122 ART SMITHING
3 C w 3-%
U- 13-
&6 /fo/es.
Fig. 57.
Fig. 58.
WALL HOOK 123
Fig. 59.
Hall Lanterns.
CHAPTER XIII.
\~ Stock doftSteef.
'
// fx%" |
~
Upset JjHZ of*
c oc: &'+-#-*
Fig. 61.
\ I
Fig. 62.
Toasting Forks, Spoon and Cake Turner.
INLAYING 127
Fig. 63.
Figure 63, is then set onto the cut line and given a blow
with the hammer, sinking the punch about 1-16 of an
inch. One-half of the punch is now raised up and out
of the channel. While it is directly on the chased line,
it is given another blow with the hammer and so on
~c***e4£mc
THE sides
lantern shown in Figure 66 consists of four
which are fastened together with angles and
rivets. The top is made from four pieces, with angles
Fig. 67.
with a sharp chisel. The edges are filed and all holes
are drilled for No. 12 rivets. At Figure 68 is a drawing,
with dimensions of one of the sides as it should be in
the flat. Notice the section of the sheet bent at the
Fig. 68.
top for the roof and at the bottom to hold the glass.
The glass is held in position at the top with a little strip
of copper, with a rivet to hold it. The glass is set into
132 ART SMITHING
lantern top.
Pattern
Fig. 71.
Fig. 72.
134 ART SMITHING
JtocZ. %x!fe
Length. 6"
Fig. 73.
Caattron Crowfoot"
*3team7ty)e.
TAread for '/£
ste-am pipe.
==^5
*^ ZX'ak « cut SHi'Dia,
^s? Cast-iron,
Fig. 78
J%"SZea.mJDip<
'."" v -
Fig. 79.
Fig. 80.
jLamp
ip s da
ftada
•ska
dtoc/t "20
JitVet^lZ.