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M.vimaladevi - Text Book of Cosmetics
M.vimaladevi - Text Book of Cosmetics
Cosmetic
M. Vimaladevi
Textbook of
co'smetios
Foreword
Prof R.S.Gaud
Senior Advisor
AICTE, New Delhi
Preface
Introduction
1. Face and Body Powders 3
2. Hand Creams and Lotions 29
3. Shaving Cream 67
4, Lotions 88
5. Oral 1-lygenic Products 101
6. Hair Care Products 122
7. Hair Dyes 174
8. Cosmetics for Nails 191
9. Antiperspirants and Deodorants 203
10. Sun Screens 219
II. Eye-makeup Products 226
12. Baby Toiletries/Products 236
13. Shampoos 253
14. Bath Preparations 271
xli • Contents
15. Rouge 281
16. Depilatories 299
17. Shelf Life (Stability) of Cosmetics 310
Index 317
Introduction
SME1CS ARE IN use since thousands of years. The practice
continues today, because of growing importance in personal
body and beauty care in many pattiôflhe world. A growing inter-
est among consumers in cosmetics has created the need for greater
precision and scientific back up in the development and manufac-
turing processes of products. This has urged the pharmacists to
identify pharmaceutical technology as one of the relevant subjects
for the future development of cosmetics.
Cultural beliefs and traditional practices have playci asubstan-
tial role in continued application of cosmetics, in the West as well as
in the East. This made the scientists carry out research in cosmet-
ics, and as a result more and more products are being developed
and marketed. Body and beauty care products are likely to surpass
the consumption of drugs in future. A large segment of the world
population is showing greater inclination towards natural cosmetics
which seems to be the future hope.
Throughout the ages cosmetics have played a major role as toots
of beautification for men and women alike. Medicinal and cos-
metic arts were quite advanced in many civilizations and India was
no exception. Infact, Sushruta a pioneer in surgery, (6th century
AD.) is also remembered for his suggestions on maintaining a
healthy body, diet, hygiene and exercise.
India was the leader in medicinal and cosmetic arts during the
dupta period (3rd to 5th century A.D.). Cosmetics and hygiene
2 ! Textbook of Cosmetics
were advanced. The daily toiletries of ladies included many types
of creams, oils and pastes like allagech (Eagle Wood) costus, frank-
incense, myrrh, camphor, saffron and sandalwood—which are some
of the oldest known aromatic substances from India.
Make-up of many kinds including hair dyes, were used by men
and women alike. Attars and floral waters for b4th and a list of
cosmetics exclusively for men also existed.
Betel leaves were used to darken lips and teeth; vermilion and
other colours with waxes were used for facial designations. Al-
mond paste for the entire body, perfumes and aromatics were used
in all forms for religious rites and on social occasions such as wed-
dings, birthdays etc.
Apart from the Indian civilization there were many others that
developed the art of cosmetics-Egyptian, Persian, Greek, Chinese
and Japanese. Travellers to and from India, China, Japan and Tibet
spread much knowledge of cosmetics worldwide.
The Persians and the Arabs had improved methods of treating
condition of the skin and hair. They had even enriched their mate-
na medica with plants brought from Asia. Perfumes were intro-
duced in Rome first by barbers as solid unguents, oily liquids and
powders. Some perfumeries were even selling cosmetic appliances
if we may call them so, useful in the manufacture of cosmetics.
Since the 16th century, cosmetics were separated from medi-
cine and from the 17th century, cosmetic technology started devel-
oping on its own. Cosmetics were defined as:
• Preparations and not devices.
• Cleaning agents, like shaving creams, shampoos, cleansing
creams and lotions etc.
• Products that can include drugs, e.g. antiperspirants creams
and
• Products to be used on the human body.
Today, a plethora of cosmetic applications, for every part of the
body is available in the world market. The evolution of cosmetics
- proves that there is a clear distinction between the earlier drama
artist's make-up material and popular cosmetics for general usage.
I
Face and
Body Powders
F ALL THE COSMETICS used, face powder easily sits on the top
Q of the list. It is equally popular among men as well as women.
It was a common practice among women in the olden days to use a
little cornstarch or flour on their faces to cover shine and for some-
time just plain white powder was very popular. Technological de-
velopments in the manufacture of face powder lead to incorpora-
tion of colour and perfume. The modem day face powder is a prod-
uct that adds very materially to personal beauty. People who are
conscious about their looks apply it several times a day. Though the
applications are small, the total consumption is high.
Due to misconception and also due to competitive and negative
type of advertising, the use of face powder came under some criti-
cism. Bismuth, lead or mercury contained in it were believed to be
harmful. Furthermore, it was thought to be the cause of pimples and
blackheads, that it gets into pores of the skin and clogs them, that orris
root in particular which it contined, produced an allergy like hay fever,
or asthma and the use of starch was harmful to the skin.
Modern face powders are manufactured by reputed companies
using purified ingredients, approved colous and non-irritating per-
fumes. Inspite of daily applications none of these harmful effects
have been suffered.
4 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Covering Powder
Covering Power
Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide, lithopone, kaolin (colloi-
dal), calcium sulfate, magnesium oxide, and starch.
Slip
Talc, starch, and metallic soaps.
Adhesiveness
Calcium, magnesium and zinc stearate, starch and colloidal clay
(purified kaolin).
Absorption
Precipitated chalk, magnesium carbonate, starch, and purified ka-
olin.
widely used in Europe are zinc oxide, purified kaolin, talc, the me-
tallic stearates-zinc stearate in particular-precipitated chalk and
magnesium carbonate. Titanium dioxide is a more recent addition
and is gaining popularity. It is being preferred to zinc oxide because
it has better covering power than the latter, besides being extremely
fine, white and chemically inert. Any insoluble, inert, white powder
(about 200 mesh) having the desired properties can be used in the
proportion.
With a better understanding of the densities of the face powder
and a thorough knowledge of the ingredients that constitute it we
move on to the development of formulas. It will be observed that
the constant factors in each formula are covering agents, adhesive
agents and absorbent agents. The variable factor is talc, that varies
from formula to formula depending upon the amount of colour and
perfume introduced.
Formulas
Light Face Powder with Zinc Oxide for Popular Shades
Materials White Peach Rachel Natural Flesh Ochre Suntan
(a)Zinc oxide 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00 1800 18.00
(b)Talc 6900 67.52 68.00 68.06 68.64 64.84 58.69
(c)Zinc stearate 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(d)Precipitated
Chalk 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(e)Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(1) Ochre - 1.44 1.00 0.88 0.33 4.09 8.89
Brilliant pink lake - 0.04 0.00 0.06 0.03 0.07 0.35
Burnt Sienna - 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.07
100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
8 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Heavy Face Powder with Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide for
Popular Shades
RAW MATERIALS
MANUFACTURING METHODS
The perfume compound is mixed with apart of magnesium carbon-
ate in an enameled white pail or a suitable vessel. The mixture is
rubbed through a hand sieve with a stiff bristle brush once the oil is
absorbed or it is run through a power brush sifter until the perfume
is uniformly distributed. Then the colours are mixed in the same
way with the rest of magnesium carbonate and chalk. The process
is continued till no colour flakes show on a white paper when the
mixture is rubbed out on it. A sample is kept aside for matching
purpose.
The colour and perfume bases are then added to the rest of the
raw materials into a mixer and mixed until they become uniform. It
should be checked if it matches with the matching sample. Finally
the powder is sifted at least to a 300 mesh product. Some manufac-
turers sift all the materials first before mixing in order to save cleaning
of sieves.
Fineness of particle size has been described by terms like air
floated, micronized and air spun, the process by which this condi-
tion is obtained. In air floating, the finished powder is passed through
a mill equipped with a fan cyclone and a dust arrester to air sepa-
rate the coarse particle to a predetermined height because they
cannot be blown or floated, until they are adequately fine. A
micronizer is a mill that grinds all the powder particles to a desired
micron size (0.001 mm). The air spinning process employs a method
wherein the powder is whirled around by a purified continuous air
stream tinder great pressure. It is housed in a specially constructed
cylindrical vessel. The powder particles knock against each other
at an estimated speed of over thousand miles per hour. This colli-
sion at high speed reduces the particle size. At this point the smaller
particles are sucked out through the use of a centrifugal force prin-
ciple while the larger ones remain inside until they are divided fur-
ther.
12 • Te4took of Cosmetics
Processes like these render uniform distribution of perfume and
colour and provide greater fluffiness. Some manufacturers in fact
leave the finished powder in air tight bins for several weeks before
filling it.
There is however, a second method of manufacture which em-
ploys two operations. First the preparation of a white powder base
which is perfumed and stored in air tight tins to bloom. Secondly,
sufficient quantities of colour bases are made at one time for sev-
eral batches. This process speeds up the manufacture of face powder
and also offers uniformity.
Formulas
White Base for Light Powders with Zinc Oxide
White Base for Heavy Powders with Zinc Oxide and Titanium
Dioxide
Titanium dioxide 3.00
Zinc oxide 2125
Talc 68.29
Zinc stearate 4.17
Precipated chalk or Magnesium carbonates 2.25
Perfume 1.04
100.00
Powder Bases
Peach (Also called nude, natural)
Precipitated chalk 59.0
Golden ochre 40.0
Brilliant pink lake 1.0
100.00
Use 5 parts and 95 parts white powder.
Rachel
Precipitated chalk 75.0
Golden ochre 25.0
100.00
Use 4 parts and 96 parts white powder
Flesh
Precipitated chalk 90.0
Golden ochre 5.0
Brilliant pink lake 5.0
100.00
Use 4 parts and 96 parts white powder
Naturelle
Precipitated chalk 75.0
Golden ache 24.0
Brilliant pink lake hO
100.00
Use 4 parts and 96 parts white powder
14 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Ochre
Precipitated chalk 54.0
Golden ochre 3.0
Brilliant pink take 43.0
100.00
Use S parts and 92 parts while powder
Suntan
Precipitated chalk 36.0
Golden ochre 58.0
Brilliant pink lake 6.0
100.00
Use 9 parts and 91 parts white powder
ADDITIONAL FORMULAS
Talc 40.0 56.0
Colloidal clay 2(10 20.0
Zinc oxide 20.0 10.0
Zinc stearate 10.0
Precipitated chalk 15.0
Magnesium carbonate 5.0 4.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 75.0
Zinc oxide 20.0
Zinc stearate 5.0
100.0
Talc 60.0 80.0
Zinc oxide 10.0 15.0
Zinc stearate 20.0 4.0
Magnesium carbonate 10.0 1.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 69,0 82.79
Zinc oxide 18.0
Titanium dioxide 5.21
Zinc stearate 6.0 5.0
Precipitated chalk 7.0 7.0
100.0 100.0
Face and Body Powders • 15
Cake Make-up
In the manufacture and formulation of cake make-up, great care
must be exercised to keep the formulas and processing standard-
ized. The mixing operations, drying temperatures and fineness of
powders must be kept uniform, else the result will be a substandard
product. The use of cake make-up produces a flat, smooth, lasting
finish to the skin, which is not achieved by any other cosmetic. It
also conceals minor skin defects.
The composition of cake make-ups consists of ingredients used
in face powder like talc, chalk, kaolin colloidal clay, titanium dioxide
and zinc oxide, besides light or heavy mineral oils, vegetable oils,
pigments, perfumes, water, humectants like glycerol and glycols,
binding and emulsifying agents.
A well-formulated cake will come our easily with a moistened
tissue or sponge as an emulsion and should cover the skin uni-
formly. Some products when still moist are blended into the skin
with fingertips or cleansing tissues and others are left to dry on the
skin. Whatever may be the technique of application, the film pro-
duced should not "draw' the'skin by drying out quickly, remain on
the skin throughout the day, repel moisture caused by perspiration,
and be easily removed by washing with soap and water.
20 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Stir all other ingredients into the oil solution of magnesium oleate
and allow overnight before filling. In addition to the materials used
here, barium sulphate, bismuth subnitrate, bismuth subcarbonate,
lithopone and similar materials are sometimes employed. Some
manufacturers add small quantities of starch or saponin in order to
Face and Body Powders • 23
enhance adherence and stability. However, these additives must be
carefully used so that the product is neither too sticky nor slow in
drying out.
Manufacturing Methods
The powdered ingredients and colour, if any is used, are mixed
together in a powder mixer. The liquid ingredients on the other hand
are blended in a tank preferably fitted with an agitator. The powder
is slowly introduced into the blended liquids with agitation. Once
the powder is completely added, the mixture is stirred for half an
hour. The finished product is filled with the stirrer in motion to insure
uniform distribution of the powder in the liquid phase of the prepa-
ration, until the tank is emptied.
No. B Cream Powder
Vanishing cream 70.0
Talc 24.0
Titanium dioxide 5.5
Perfume 0.5
100.0
Colour to suit
Make the vanishing cream in the usual way. Mix the talc and
titanium dioxide and colour and perfume. Add the cream and then
run the entire mass over a roller mill.
No. 9 Cream Powder
Glyceryt monostearate 10.0
Glycerin 3.0
Heavy mineral oil 5.0
Spermaceti 5.0
Stearic acid 2.0
Caustic potash U.S.P 0.1
Water 48.4
Perfume 0.5
Titanium dioxide 610
Talc 20.0
100.0
Textbook of Cosmetics
Dissolve the caustic potash in water then add all the rest of the
ingredients with the exception of the perfume, but include the colour.
Bring the mixture to a boil with constant stirring. Continue stirring
until all the materials have melted and have become homogeneous.
Shut off the heat and continue stirring until mass is cooled, then add
the perfume. Run the mass through a roller of ointment mill if the
colour does not come out uniformly.
No. 10 Cream Powder
Glycerin 42.0
Stearic acid 10.0
White lace powder 42.0
Distilled water 4.0
Potassium hydroxide U.S.l' 1.5
PerIl me 0.5
100.0
Colour to suit
TOILET POWDERS
shades sell the most. In some cases, camphor or boric acid are
added; in such cases where medicinal claims are made by the manu-
facturers, such a powder falls under the category of drugs and not
cosmetics.
Dusting powder, after shave powder, and baby powder are closely
related to talcum powder. They have more or less the same com-
position as talcum powder. Dusting powder is sold with a puff to
apply the same on person. After shave powder consists of talc with
the addition of colour and other mineral ingredients so as to enable
it to go on smoothly, cling to the face with less sheen and match the
colour of skin. Baby powders are normally less heavily perfumed
(for obvious reasons) and coloured. Boric acid because of its sooth-
ing and slightly antiseptic properties, is the favorite choice not only
in baby powders but all toilet powders.
The manufacturing method for toilet powders is generally the
same as face powders.
The following are formulae of talcum, body, and after-shave pow-
ders.
Talcum Powders
No. 1
Talc . 71.0
Precipitated chalk 20.0
Zinc stearale 3.0
Boric acid 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No.2
Talc 54.0
Precipitated chalk 40.0
Zinc stearate 3,0
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
26 • Textbook of Cosmetics
No.3
Talc 79.0
Magnesium carbonate 15,0
Boric acid 3.0
Magnesium stearalc 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No.4
Talc 19.0
Calcium carbonate 60.0
Rice starch 15.0
Boric acid 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
After Shave Powder
No.5
Talc 71.5
Titanium dioxide 3.0
Zinc stearate 4.0
Precipitated chalk 20.0
Golden ochre 0.5
Perfume 1.0
100.0
Body Powder
No.6
Talc 50.0
Kaolin 30.0
Boric acid 2.0
Precipitated chalk 17.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
Face and Body Powders • 27
No. 7
Talc 50.0
Precipitated chalk 25.0
Magnesium carbonate 20.0
Zinc stearate 2.0
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.1)
No. 8
Talc 68.0
Precipitated chalk 15.0
Colloidal clay 5.0
Boric acid 3.0
Magnesium stearate 3.0
Magnesium carbonate 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No. 9
Talc 70,0
Kaolin 13.0
Magnesium stearate 8.0
Precipitated chalk 5.0
Magnesium carbonate 3.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No. 10
Talc 70.0
Colloidal clay 11.0
Precipitated chalk 10,0
Zinc stearale 5.0
Boric acid 3.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
28 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Baby Powders
No. II
Talc 63.63
Kaolin 20.0
Zinc stearate 5.0
Precipitated chalk 5.0
Boric acid 6.0
Oxyquinoline benzoate 012
Perl'unie 0.25
100.0
No. 12
Talc 66.75
Magnesium carbonate 5.0
Colloidal clay 10.0
Magnesium stearatc 5.0
Boric acid 10.0
Titanium dioxide 3.0
Pcrlijtne 0,25
10(1.1)
No. 13
Talc 54.0
Kaolin 20,0
Zinc stearate 5.0
Precipitated chalk 11.0
Boric acid 10.0
100.0
BASIC INGREDIENTS
Emollients
Lanolin
Lanolin is widely used in hand treatment products. According to
studies lanolin helps in maintaining the epidermis in a normal condi-
tion. Although disputed, lanolin according to these studies hardly
penetrates the skin and is retained on the skin. However, its emol-
lient properties are universally accepted.
Lanolin is a natural wax consisting of mainly esters formed by
the union of higher alcohols and fatty acids. Its hydrophobic and
adhesive character makes it an excellent occlusive agent and hence
a good emollient.
The proportion of lanolin used does not generally exceed 5%
because when used in higher concentrations it tends to impart
"tackiness" to the end product.
Apart from being a good emollient it serves as a good emulsifier
too and forms W/O type emulsions.
Lanolin Alcohols
Modified Lanolin
The following lanolin modifications which are advantageous in the
product development should be considered as far as the hand treat-
ment products are concerned.
Liquid Lano/ins
Liquid lanolin is obtained by fractionating lanolin. This liquid form of
Hand Creams and Lotions • 33
lanolin is an effective emollient and enjoys the following advan-
tages over lanolin in hand cosmetics
I. Appreciably less drag and stickiness.
2. Considerably greater solubility in hydrocarbons, even at low
temperatures.
3. Greater concentration feasible in hand creams and lotions.
4. Greater ease of handling.
Polyoxyalkylene Lanolins
The idea behind the creation of these lanolins was to incorporate
natural lanolin, an excellent emollient by itself although hydrophobic
in nature, with hydrophilic properties. They were produced by re-
acting ethylene oxide and lanolin and are semi-solid in nature, some-
what less viscous than natural lanolin, and more soluble in water
(than lanolin). This solubility varies directly with the ethylene oxide
chain length.
Polyoxyalkylene lanolins exhibit the following advantages in hand
cream and lotions formulations.
They deposit on the skin an occlusive film that is non insu-
lating.
34 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Sterols
Cholesterol is the only sterol, which appears to have a specific
application as an emollient to hand creams and lotions and the rea-
son why it is so may be linked to the facts listed hereunder.
1. The surface of the skin is covered by a greasy layer con-
sisting mainly of waxes, free and esterified cholesterol.
2. An analysis of the skin surface fat shows 2.5% free cho-
lesterol and 2.5% esters of cholesterol.
3. The lipids present in the skin-surface fat, such as choles-
terol, hydrophilic upon prolonged contact, enable the layers
of the skin to take up water to a considerable degree.
4. Dermatologists have recommended the use of cholesterol
to lessen the irritating and defatting action of soap.
5. It is maintained that the sterols present even in an emulsi-
fied form for instance in soap lather, easily penetrate into
the epidermis and impart suppleness to skin.
Phospholipids
Phospholipids are complex fat-soluble substances that contain in
their molecule a nitrogenous base (such as choline or ethanola-
mine) in addition to fatty acids and glycerol. -
Hand Creams and Lotions • 35
Hydrocarbons
The hydrocarbons like petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin wax and
ozokerite have been used in emollients in hand creams and lotions
only to a certain effect. This is because they impart an uncomfort-
able feeling of warmth to the skin and also leave a sticky or waxy
effect.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids have earned the distinction of being one of the essential
ingredients in the formulation of hand creams and lotions. Of these
stearic acid is the only one of choice.
Stearic acid figures in most hand creams and lotions. In some as
part of the emulsifier (such as potassium stearate or triethanola-
mine stearate) but in the majority of cases it is also present as the
free acid with proportions varying from 1-20% depending on the
consistency of the finished product.
Stearic Acid
triple pressed stearic acid, the consistency of the cream varied. For
instance, reports of softening effects were recorded when high
purity stearic acid was used in place of the conventional triple pressed
stearic acid in the presence of nonionic emulsifiers.
Fatty Alcohols
The fatty alcohols have been widely used in hand creams and lo-
tions. Cetyl and stearyl alcohols being the more favoured ones.
Lauryl and myristyl have also been in use in hand product formula-
tions but as a rule in combination with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol
or both.
As emollients cetyl and stearyl alcohols have been found lobe
very effective. Being hydrophobic they produce occlusive films that
help in inducing hydration of skin. Further, they have sufficiently
high melting points so as to deposit non-greasy films on the skin. A
combination of cetyl and stearyl at concentrations as low as 0.2%
of each are known to impart to the hands a smooth velvety feel.
To have an acceptable end product the concentration of cetyl
and stearyl alcohol have to be very cautiously worked out particu-
larly in soap systems, because the rate of occurrence of gelation is
directly related to their concentration.
BARRIER AGENTS
There has been a growing interest among the hand-product cus-
tomers ranging from a housewife to the garage mechanic who con-
stantly risk irritation in their daily routines, in a group of emollients
that in addition to promoting rehydration of the stratum corneum aid
in protecting the skin surface. These ingredients are called "barrier
agents.'
Protective hand creams and lotions have recently increased in
number and variety. There is a standing demand for such products,
which provide protection against domestic and industrial materials
that are likely to cause skin irritation.
A well-formulated barrier cream needs to fulfill the following
basic requirements.
Hand Creams and Lotions • 39
HEALING AGENTS
The need to include healing agents in hand creams and lotions has
40 • Textbook of Cosmetics
been in the reckoning for along time. The reason for this being the
severe chapping of the hand leading to craking of the epidermis
which could be very painful. Actually, it may be considered as a
wound. Furthermore, the constant use of hands in the daily routine
could leave them bruised and scratched. Some hand products con-
tain agents that act as a skin healer and their function is to stimulate
the growth of healthy tissue. Two basic agents have been identified
as skin healers in urea and allantoin. These agents infact are chemi-
cally related, allantoin being a uric acid derivative.
Here are 5 basic attributes of aflantoin.
1. Allantoin effectively "digests" tissue to produce a "natu-
ral" cleaning up of necrotic material.
2. It is a remarkable cell proliferant and quickly stimulates the
development of healthy granulation tissue, thus reducing
healing time.
3. These actions are accomplished without pain; in fact, pain
frequently tends to be reduced, if not entirely relieved, when
allantoin is applied.
4. It may be employed in dilute solutions and, therefore, does
not dry out or cake, but remains in intimate contact with
affected tissues.
5. It may be applied in solution, emulsion, or ointment form
either alone or in combination with other therapeutic agents.
Therefore, the addition of 0.01 to 0.1% to various cosmetic
preparations, such as skin creams, tonics, lotions, soaps
and shaving preparations, would enhance their healing prop-
erties.
HUMECTANTS
EMULSIFIERS
The increasing knowledge about emulsifiers, which have made pos-
sible a successful union of water and oil, has been greatly influencial
in enhancing the cosmetic elegance of hand products.
The emulsifiers used in hand creams and lotions are categorized
into three types
1. Anionic,
2. Cationic, and
3. Nonionic
In this section we shall concern ourselves to know about out-
standing emulsifiers used in hand creams and lotions and a brief
description of their behavior in these products.
Anionics
This group of emulsifiers is widely used in the formulation of hand
creams and lotions and account for about 75% of the hand prod-
ucts available in the market. Some examples of anionic emulsifiers
are shown in the table below.
Anionic Emulsifiers
flye Enunpk's
Fatty acid soaps Potassium steatite
Sodium slearate
Ammonium stcarate
Triethanolmine stearate
Polyol fatty acid monoescers Glyceryl monostcarate containing
containing fatty acid soaps either Potassium or Sodium soap
Sulphuric ester (Sodium salts) Sodium lauryl suphfate
Sodium ectyt sulphate
Polyol fatty acid nionosiers Glyceryl monoslearate containing
containing sulphuric esters Sodium lauryl sulphate.
The fatty acid soaps and sodium salts of sulfuric esters are
strongly hydrophilic and will tend to produce 01W emulsions.
44 • Textbook of Cosmetics
The polyoi fatty acid Jionoester soaps are only slightly hydro-
phobic and will tend to produce dual emulsions. The most com-
monly used fatty acid soap in hand lotion is triethanolamine stearate
in concentrations ranging from 0.5-3%. Fatty acid soaps are known
to produce stable emulsions but on standing they tend to thicken
and finally gel. This is a common feature seen in commercial hand
lotions. Fatty alcohols and polyol fatty esters have even a greater
tendency than fatty acid soaps and therefore caution is necessary
when combining the two in formulation. Small quantities of sulphuric
esters such as sodium lauryl sulphate prevents gel formation. Also
an increase in the quantity of mineral oil (10-20%) and of polyols
has a retarding effect on this gel formation.
In hand creams formulations that use only one emulsifier in so-
dium stearate, the cream produced is very hard initially. However,
on standing it becomes softer and eventually "soapy". The reason
for this being the insoluble nature of sodium stearate used in small
proportions or in conjunction with more soluble stearates. Ammo-
nium stearate and amine salts of fatty acids generally produce white
creams, which tend to discolour towards yellow upon ageing. This
is "Catalyzed" by the presence of trace metals, especially iron.
This tendency to discolour is also partially attributed to emulsifi-
cation temperatures. Hence it is suggested that creams containing
ammonium stearate or other amine salts, as emulsifiers should be
produced at the lowest possible temperature.
Cationics
This group of emulsifiers has not been so widely used in hand creams
and lotions. However, lately, these agents have found use in the
production of presumably unique hand cosmetics. The use of
cationics in hand creams can be summarized as
I. Being substantive to protein at an acid pH.
2. Instrumental in producing emulsions with an acid pH.
3. Being germicidal when not inactivated by anionic or other
incompatible materials.
Hand Creams and Lotions • 45
The cationics generally used in hand creams and lotions are listed
below.
1. N (stearoyl colamnio formylmethyl) pyridinium chloride.
2. N-soya-methyl morpholinium ethosulphate.
3. Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.
4. (Diisobutyl phenoxy ethoxy) ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammo-
nium chloride.
5. Cetyl pyridinium chloride.
Emulsions produced by cationic emulsifiers are quite stable and
show least tendency to gel. On the contrary they tend to thin out
with age. A small amount of polyol fatty acid ester such as glyceryl
monostearate helps to prevent this problem.
Cationic systems show novel possibilities in hand creams and
lotions.
Nonionics
One basic difference between nonionic emulsifiers and the other
two cationic and anionic is that the former shows no tendency to
ionize. This property makes them compatible with other nonionics
as well as electrolytes even in high concentration.
The reasons for using nonionics as emulsifiers in hand creams
and lotions are
I. In hand creams, nonionic emulsifiers do not tend to pro-
duce a surface crust.
2. Oil-in-water hand creams made with nonionic emulsifiers
show the least amount of shrinkage due to water evapora-
tion.
3. Hand lotions and creams containing nonionic emulsifiers
are extremely resistant to freezing.
4. Germicidal agents of the cationic type can be incorporated
into hand creams and lotions without fear of incompatibil-
ity.
5. Acid, neutral, or alkaline hand creams and lotions can be
readily formulated with nonionics.
46 • Textbook of Cosmetics
lose), the clays (e.g. bentonite and veegum), and the synthetic poly-
mers (e.g. polyvinyl alcohol) which produced hydrophobic protec-
tive colloids. Although these agents have emulsifying properties,
they are not primarily emulsifiers but fill in the role of emulsion and
suspension stabilizers. They also serve as aqueous phase thicken-
ers. When calculated on a dry basis, they were usually used in
proportions under 1% in hand creams and lotions. These colloids
were prepared as aqueous solutions or dispersions just before pro-
duction since sufficient time is needed for their hydration.
PRESERVATIVES
Hand creams and lotions contain water and other ingredients, which
are susceptible to attack by microorganisms. Hence the absolute
necessity for a good preservative. The following are the properties
for a good preservative.
1. It must be effective against all types of microorganisms
causing decomposition.
2. It must be soluble internally or externally.
3. It must not be toxic internally or externally.
4. It must be compatible; must not alter the character of
the preparation as far as objectionable odour, colour, taste,
and other properties are concerned; and must be practi-
cally netural so that it will not alter the pH of the prepara-
tion.
5. Its cost should not increase the price of the preparation to
any marked extent.
6. Its inhibiting effect must be lasting; therefore it may not be
possible to depend on volatile substances, the effects of
which disappear after evaporation.
Over the years many preservatives have been tried but have
been discarded for one reason or the other. For example, benzoic
acid, sodium benzoate, and sodium propionate have been success-
ful in acid medium only; therefore they are of no use in creams and
lotions that are slightly alkine in nature. Salicylic acid was consid-
ered, but discarded because of its skin irritation potential. However,
48 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Perfumes
COLOURING AGENTS
Colour is a psychological aspect of a product; people tend to accept
or reject the same product when tinted with colour or left uncoloured.
Hand creams and lotions are usually left uncoloured although
a recent survey indicates that hand products in shades of pink and
blue are more acceptable than those that are white and uncoloured.
The selection of colour by the formulator demands two aspects:
one the psychological safety, and the other its compatibility with the
product. In USA the psychological safety is simplified by i 1estric-
tion on use of coal tar colours only.
The more realistic problem is one concerning the compatibility
of colour with the product. It is related to factors such as pH, solu-
bility, and stability in the presence of light, metallic ions and oxidising
and reducing agents.
Most hand creams and lotions being 0/W emulsions, water-soluble
colours should be used to tint the water, which is the external phase.
In case of W/O emulsions, oil soluble colours are in use. Some-
Hand Creams and Lotions • 51
5. Should be antiseptic.
6. Should have a pleasant smell.
7. Should have a stable and appealing colour.
Keeping the above objectives in mind, he may also consider the
points hereunder.
1. One or more emollients can be used for softening of the
skin.
2. A vanishing cream base will accomplish the second
objective. The use of alcohol might assist in imparting the
apparent "vanishing" quality to a hand lotion formula.
3. The careful selection and proper combination of the
waxes, oils and humectants will control the amount of
tackiness developed by creams and lotions.
4. Thejudicious choice of the solid ingredients will aid in the
prevention of excessive occlusion the fourth objective.
5. The choice of the antiseptic might well determine whether
the emulsifier should be anionic, cationic or nonionic
emulsifier.
6. The selection of pleasant perfume oil that is compatible
with the emulsion and does not overpower the fragrance
worn by the user will solve the sixth objective.
7. Choosing a stable colour will involve the consideration of
such factors as pH, presence of reducing compounds, ef
fects of light and type of emulsion.
By examining and discussing some typical formulas hereunder,
the importance of practical consideration associated with both for-
mulation and manufacture can be exposed to the reader.
The rate, te and type of stirring also play an important role in
the stability and consistency of the cream. Hand cream systems, in
general, are thixotropic. Therefore, excessive and vigorous shear-
ing action reduces the viscosity beyond acceptable levels. Often
the effect of prolonged and vigorous agitation means an irrevers-
ibly low viscosity.
Prolonged stirring results due to inefficient cooling. In summer
when the cooling water is warm the cooling cycle automatically
Hand Creams and Lotions • 53
Cetylalcohol 2% 10% -
Glyceryl
monostearate pure 10% -
Isopropyl myristate — — — — — 3%
Isopropyl palmitate 1% 3% -
Lanolin I 1% -- 2 -
Mineral oil 2
Polyethylene glycol
1000 monostearate 5 -
Polyethylene sorbitàn -
monostearate 1.5 -
Propyl paraben 0.05
Sodium cetyl sulphate 2 -
Sorbitan monostearate 2 -
Stearic acid lt 16 8 IS 20 17
Stearyl alcohol 3 -
Stearyl colamino
formyl methyl
pyridinium chloride 1.5 -
54 • Textboqk of Cosmetics
Part B
Glycerol 12 - 8 - - IS 10
Lauryt colamino. •. -
lormyl methyl
pyridinium chloride - - - -. - 5
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.1 0,1
Polyethylene glycol 300 -
monostearate
Propylene glycol - 10
Potassium hydroxide I 0.6
Quince seed mulcage - 25
(2% solution)
Sodium lauryl sulphate - - I - - - -
Sothitol ' - - - 3.5 3 - -
Triethanolamine - 0.3
Water 68.85 46.9 67.9 76.9 68.85 71.4 64.9
Part A
Part B
Glycerol 2 2 10 3 - 5 7
Methyl paraben 0.1 0.1 0,1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
N (lauroyl colamino
formyl methyl
pyridiniOm chloride) - -----1.5
Propylene glycol - - - - 3 - -
Sodium alginate - 0.3
Sodium cetyl sulphate - - 5 - - - -
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Stearyl colamino formyl
methyl pyridinium
chloride
Triethanolamine 0,75 0.5
Water 93.65 86.6 77.9 89.4 84.9 88.4 84.9
Part C
Ethyl alcohol - 5
Colour q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
Part A
Arlacel 60 3.0% -
T\veen 60 4,0 -
Atlas G-1702 - 5.0%
Atlas C- 1726. - 5.0
56 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part B
Part A
Pad B
Part A
Part B
Pan A
Part B
Part A
II
Peanut oil 10.0%
Petrolatum 3.0
Spermaceti 4.0 5.0%
Bees wax 12.0 12.0
Light mineral oil 23.0 27.0
Lariogene 6.0
Hand Creams and Lotions • 59
Part B
Pad A
11 III
Twcen85 1.0% - -
Arlacel 85 1.0 - -
Twccn 40 - 8.0% -
Atlas C 1705 - 2.0 -
Atlas C 1425 - - 5.0%
Atlas C 1441 - - 1.0
Beeswax 2.0 2.0 2.0
Lanolin 4.0 4.0 1.0
Stearic acid 15.0 10.0 15.0
Light mineral oil 23.0 20.0 23.0
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
60 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part B
Therapeutic Creams
The set of formulations discussed here may be used as basic prepa-
rations on which one may choose to add active therapeutic agents.
The chemical nature of the particular ingredients must be consid-
ered in relation to its compatibility with certain emulsifier types. A
water-soluble antihistamine hydrochloride for example is cationic
in behavior and would therefore be incompatible with anionic emul-
sifiers. Either olw or w/o emulsion may be used, depending upon
the temperature effects preferred on the skin.
Once the cream has been brought down to filling temperature,
the problem of transfer to the filling hopper arises. The cream is
either pumped or moved by gravity. The latter is preferred because
any shear action due to pumping can be avoided lest it has an ad-
verse effect on the consistency of the cream. The type of filling
unit used is also important. Piston filler is preferred over the gear
type because the former exerts less of a breaking action on the
structure of the creams.
Problems do not just end with manufacturing. Storage too pre-
sents its share of problems. Hand creams stored in a warm place
could have the following effects.
1. White creams tend to turn off-white in colour (towards
yellow).
2. Stearate creams are likely to develop a pearly shean,
which may not be desirable.
Hand Creams and Lotions • 61
Procedure
All the waxy materials are melted at 55°C. Aqueous phase con-
62 • Textbook of Cosmetics
taming water, lactic acid and glycerol is also heated to 57°C and
both the phases mixed and stirred till the temperature is cooled to
45°C, when perfume is added and passed through a colloid mill and,
stored for packing.
Procedure
All the waxes are melted at 40°C. The alkalis are dissolved in wa-
ter and added to the molten waxes. Stirring is continued till solidi-
fied mass is obtained
Polyethylene glycol 400 monosterate 10.0%
Stearic acid 16.0
Potrassium hydroxide 0.8
Glycerol 5,0
Water 67.5
Preservative 0.2
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Heat the aqueous phase with allied ingredients and add to the mol-
ten waxes phase and continue stirring till the mass solidifies.
Antibacterial Creams
After the natural and synthetic, soap creams, antibacterial creams
appeared in the market. With hexachlorophene as the antibacterial
compound mostly.
Hand Creams and Lotions • 63
Formula
Beeswax 9%
Paraffin 10
Mineral oil 65 ps 30
Cetyl alcohol I
Deity! extra 10
Hexachlorophene 05
Borax I
Water 38
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the hexachlorophene in the deltyl extra. All the waxy
materials are melted in a bath at 70°C. Borax and water are also
heated and mixed with molten wax phase or stirred till the tempera-
ture drops to 50°C when the perfume is added and stored for pack-
ing.
Hand Lotions
The one major difference in formulating hand lotions and hand
creams is the maintenance of the lotion in a stable fluid state or
flow characteristic. This fluidity of hand lotions must be kept within
certain acceptable limits. If the viscosity is very low, the lotion liter-
ally "runs" out of the bottle, which is out of acceptable limits. It is
equally considered out of acceptable limits if the lotion exhibits gel-
ling tendencies, which make it difficult to pour from a bottle. The
problem of developing hand lotions with ideal viscosity is not an
easy one. It becomes even more difficult to predict the viscosity
pattern of a lotion, at the time of formulation over the shelf life
period (about 2 years). In fact there does not exist a method to
determine the viscosity of an emulsion in advance at any given time
in the future. However, it is only through experience, excessive
gelation or low viscosity can be prevented.
The problem of gelation occurs mainly in stearate type lotions.
64 • Textbook at Cosmetics
Recommended Equipment
Stainless steel equipment should be used in the manufacture of
hand creams and lotions, glass lined tanks can be used but use of
copper, tin, and iron should be avoided.
66 • Textbook of Cosmetics
CONCLUSION
peratures. It is particulatly for this reason the salts and the other
ingredients have to be very carefully selected.
Choice of [Elettroiytes
The choice-of .electrolytes like chlorides is a tricky one because of
(heir corrosive effect on The metal tube. However, they can be
countered by corrosion inhibitors. Extensive shelf life tests are
needed over awide rangeof temperatures while selecting the elec-
trdlite and'the'm.etal ipadkaging.
Stearic acid
Yet another very important ingredient for lather cream is stearic
acid. There are 3 'grades of this material commonly sold; single-
pressed, double4pressed and triple-pressed. Normally a double-
pressed stearic acid is preferred in order to obtain a white lather
cream. A qualitative 'test to find out whether the stearic acid is
suitable is to add an excess of strong potassium hydroxide solution
to a small sample of 'melted stearic acid. The soap formed should
not be brown or yellow. The odour of stearic acid is another impor-
tant aspect. A poor grade stearic acid easily develops rancidity and
could spoil the entire batch.
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine should be avoided in lather cream, because it often
causes discolouration upon ageing. Further, there are no advan-
tages to be gained from its use.
Coconut Oil
A fraction of the acids derived from coconut oil is necessary in a
shaving cream, the sodium or potassium soaps made from coconut
oils are very soluble in water and lather very freely. The lather is
large bubbled, thin and breaks down readily. Use of specially de-
odorized oil is recommended in order to avoid odour.
Shaving Cream • 71
Oleates
.Oleates are generally present in lather creams as well as shaving
soaps. Coconut oil itself will provide sufficient oleates for most
formulations. However, the oleates have a desirable and undesir-
able property for a shaving cream. They are free-lathering, non-
irritating, and tend to keep the lather moist. But if in excess, they
will make the cream stringy and have a tendency to go rancid.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids which are relatively more unsaturated than oleic acid
should not be present in significant amounts because their soaps
tend to become rancid.
Lather Characteristics
agents are, stearic acid, free fat from unsaponified coconut oil, min-
eral oil (rarely used) and vegetable oils (tend to become rancid).
Substances known to reduce surface tension and produce a fine-
bubble lather are saponins, sodium chlorate, and lecithin. Small quan-
tities of antioxidants like phenolic compound with long side chains,
are used for the preservation of the cream.
Use of fractionated acids from coconut or palm kernel oils ren-
ders shaving soaps nonirritating and enhances lathering.
Humectants
Glycerol has a very desirable property of making a cream soft and
maintaining it as well thus allowing for easy extrusion from a tube.
In reasonable amounts, it improves the lather and has an emollient
feel on the face. Some creams have used as much as 15% in their
formulations. Sorbitol was suggested as an alternative to glycerol
but was not found to be as effective.
Menthol
Menthol is used to give a cooling effect. But it has not received
universal acceptance.
Formulas for Lather Cream
2 3 4 5
Stearic acid 35.0% 21.0% 20,0% 38.8%
Coconut oil 10.0 10.5 6.0 9.7
Potassium hydroxide 6.1 6.6 7.5 8.0
Sodium hydroxide 2.0 0.4 0,5 1.6
Glycerol 8.0 7.0 12.0 11.6
Water 37,4 53.2 37.5 30.3
Additive 1.5 1.3 1.0 -
Boric acid - - 0.5 -
Stearine - - 15.0 -
Preservative q.s q.s q.S
Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s
Shaving Cream • 73
Procedure
After saponification of stearic acid and coconut oil, add the remain-
der of stearic acid and also add special ingredients such as lanolin
and the anti-oxidant. Heat the glycerol, boric acid (if required) and
half of the water required to 65°C, mix and run slowly in the crutcher
stirring till the creamy paste is uniform. Heat the remaining water
to 44°C and add as quickly as the cream absorbs it.
iiiAVE AEAAA?io&
The primary purpose of preshave preparations is to prepare the
beard and the skin of the face more effectively than the shaving
pieiaraiions alone.
Shaving cream • 75
Beard Softeners
Formula 1
Duponol WAT 2(kO%
AerosolOT - 100% 01
Cart'itol
Ethyl alcohol specially denatured 8.0
Water 68.9
Procedure
Formula 2
Skin Conditioner
The conventional shaving soaps and the lather shave means lack in
beard softening action. The formula hereunder is a brushless shave
cream reformulated to increase its beard softening, moisturizing,
skin-lubricating and skin protecting properties. Menthol and cam-
phor are added for their cooling effect on the skin and a suitable
soap compatible antiseptic can be incorporated into the product.
Formula 3
Part A
Stearic acid, triple pressed 20.6%
Diglycol stearate, self-emulsifying 2.5
Mineral oil 55/65 4.0
Lanolin anhydrous 1.0
Sulfonated castor oil 70% 1.0
Part B
Triethanoalmine 1.3
Borax US? 0.9
Water 64.0
Propylene glycol 4.0
Part C
Menthol 0.1
Camphor 0.1
Perfume oil 0.5
When sodium alginate and similar natural gums are prepared in
advance it is advisable to preserve them with 0.1-0.2% of methyl-
p-hydroxy-benzoate.
Shaving Cream • 77
Procedure
Formula 4
Part A
Zinc stearate 5.0 parts
-Iron oxide Pigments q.s
Light Magnesium carbonate 2.0
Perfume q.s
Talc to make 100.0
18 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part B
Veegum 1.5
Water 30.5
Procedure
Procedure
Dissolve the zinc phenolsulfonate, menthol, and camphor in the at-
- - - Shaving Cream • 79
cobol and dilute with the distilled witch hazel extract, colour and
filter clear.
Ptddedute
Pissolve the isopropyl rEyristate and perfume oil in the alcohol add
colour and filter clean.
rotm.ura .1
ay oil 0.20%
Pirnehta oil 0.05
Ethyl alcohol 50.00
Jamaica rum 10.00
Water 39.75
Carathel q.s
Fomiuis.2
Mj'ristiaa OH 0.68%
ciraiigeoil 0.05
fliiiehtâ oil 0.0
Ethyl altohol 61.00
Water 10 iiiake 100.00
80 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Procedure
Mix the oils with alcohol and gradually add water until the product
measures 100 ml. Set the mixture aside in a well closed container
for eight days, then filter using JO gm of talc, to render the product
clear.
Formula 3
Peppermint oil 1%
Glycerol 5
Bay rum 94
Formula 4
Potash alum 2%
Glycerol 3
Menthol 1% in ethyl alcohol 5
Orange flower water 20
Rose water 20
Witch hazel extracts 50
The aromatic waters mentioned are saturated solutions of odor-
iferous principles prepared by distilling the respective plant materi-
als with water, separating the excess volatile oil, if any, from the
clear water portion of the distillate and adding alcohol if necessary
for preservation.
Clear Lotions
Hereunder are some characteristics, atleast to some degree, of an
after shave, which manufactures endeavour to incorporate in their
product. I
Formula 1
Procedure
Formula 2 a
Stick Lotions
Formula3
Procedure
Formula 4
Procedure
Formula 5
Procedure
Formula 6
Procedure
Heat together the glycerol, meth'Fparaben, quince seed mucilage,
triethanolamine, and water to 75°C. Heat separately stearic acid
and cetyl alcohol to 75°C. Add the two phases with good agitation.
When cooled to 40°C mix alcohol, perfume and add slowly to the
emulsion with stirring. At 30°C discontinue stirring and bottle. The
formulae here under illustrate respectively a soft cream and a heavy
lotion. -
Procedure
Heat glyceryl monostearate and stearyl alcohol together to 70°C.
In another vessel, dissolve the sorbo, Emco!s and sodium benzoate
86 • Textbook of Cosmetics
in water and heat to 70°C. Add the oily phase to aqueous phase
with good agitation and continue mixing while cooling. Add per-
fume at 40°C. Mix until cooled to 25°C and package.
Powders
Formula 9
Talc 80%
Kaolin colloidal 10
Zinc stearate 5
Precipitated chalk 3
Boric acid 2
Yellow ochure q.s
Perfume oil q.s
The commercial manufacture of after shave powders does not
differ materially from that of a face powder.
Styptics
Styptic pencils and alum blocks are shaving accessories. The styp-
tic pencils are exclusively to stanch bleeding from minor cuts pro-
duced during shaving. Alum blocks offer a convenient method of
applying a high concentration aluminum salt to a limited area of the
face.
EA I
Lotions
OTIONS CAN BE defined as medicated washes. But in cosmetic
cience language, a lotion is a liquid preparation, applied exter-
nally on the skin to produce or enhance a beautification. The main
functions of lotions are soothing and emolliency, extended to astrin-
gency, skin freshening, bleaching and other medicinal properties.
Some of the liquid creams can also be designated as lotions,
although these do not contain any germicides. A general formula
for a lotion includes, alcohol, water and glycerin, with some special
astringents, gums, honey or antiseptic etc.
Generally denatured alcohol is used for reducing the cost of the
product. Rarely isopropyl alcohol can be used as a substitute for
ethyl alcohol, as methyl alcohol is not advisable because of its tox-
icity even through percutaneous absorption. The most commonly
used gums are karaya, acacia, gum tragacanth which is a dried
mucilaginous exudation, probably through insect action. But this
gum gives a thicker mucilage than karaya. Gum arabic (Acacia) is
a true gum and is freely soluble in water. But this is mainly used as
an emulsifying agent. Recently tragum has entered into market, a
2% solution can give a good stable suspension of solids.
Gum benzoin is not a true gum but resin. It has a pleasing odour
like vanilla, good preservative properties as it contains, beuzoic and
cinnamic acids. Quince seed aqueous extract is another good sus-
pending agent but expensive.
Lotions • 89
HAND LOTIONS
These are meant for keeping the hands soft and soothing, as. the
90 • Textbook of Cosmetics
hands are most used in rough and tough work like dish washing,
and other household chores. Solid and liquid creams, emollient lo-
tions that are nongreasy are also recommended, A general formula
of a lotion is described below.
Formula 1
Procedure
Dissolve the potassium hydroxide in one third of the water and add
the glycerin. Bring the rest of the water to a temperature of 80°C.
Add the quince seed and soak for six hours and strain through
muslin. Melt the stearic acid, dissolve the perfume in the alcohol.
Add to the hot potassium hydroxide, the melted stearic acid and boil
for a minute. Allow the temperature to drop to 70°C and then stir it
into quince seed mucilage. Stir occasionally until cool, then slowly
add the alcohol, preservative and perfume.
Formula 2
Gum tragacanth 4
Tincture benzoin Sumatra 26
Glycerin 5
Boric acid
Alcohol S.D. 39 B 35
Waterdistilled qs IOU
Perfume qs
Lotions • 91
Procedure
Formula 3
Stearic acid [5%
Powdered soap (Neutral or white) 1.0
Alcohol S.D. 39 B 4,0
Glycerin 5.9
Borax 2.5
Gum karaya 1.5
Water 82.95
Perfume 0.5
Preservative 0.15
Procedure
Mix the gum karaya, with alcohol and stir into half the water (warm),
when dissolved strain through muslin. Heat the rest of the water,
and dissolve in it the borax; add the soap, glycerin and melted stearic
acid, and agitate until cool. Then add the mucilage, preservative
and the perfume.
Formula 4
Irish moss mucilage 3% 37.0%
Glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 15.0
Boric acid 0,5
Tincture of benzoin 0.5
92 • Textbook of Cosmetics
MENTHOL LOTION
Formula 5
Menthol 0.2%
Powdered tragacanth 0.5
Alcohol 9.0
Glycerin 4.5
Water 85.8
Dissolve the menthol in alcohol and add to the tragacanth. Add
water and glycerin and mix until a smooth mixture results.
WITCH HAZELLOTION
Formula 6
Formula 7
Tragacanth 0.75%
Glycerin 6.25
Witch haze) 6.25
Tincture of benzoin 0.4
Liquefied phenol 0.75
Oil of rose 0.1
Alcohol 6.25
Water 79.25
LEMON LOTION
Formula 8
Pectin 2.5%
Lemon juice 9.5
Citric acid 3.0
Benzoic acid 0.15
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 15.0
Water 64.35
Perfume 0.5
Dissolve the citric acid in water. Add the benzoic acid and lemon
juice and pectin. Then add glycerin and the perfume dissolved in
alcohol.
LEMON LOTION
Formula 9
Gum tragacanlh 5
Lemon juice 25
Boric acid 1.25
94 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Glycerin 1.0
Alcohol 35.0
Colour qs
Distilled water qs 100
HAND LOTION
Formula 10
Formula 11
Formula 12
Formula 13
Tincture of benzoin 1.25%
Boric acid 0.5
Glycerin 8.3
Perfume 0,2
Alcohol 40.0
Witch hazel 9.75
Orange flower water 40.0
Colour to tint q.s
Dissolve the tincture of benzoin and perfume in the alcohol. Warm
the witch hazel and dissolve the boric acid in it. Mix the witch hazel
and the orange flower water. Add glycerin then add the tincture
and alcohol. Mix thoroughly, age and filter as before.
Menthol 0.05%
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 5.0
Boric acid 2.0
Bay rum 15.0
Water 72.7
Perfume 0.25
Procedure
Dissolve the menthol in alcohol and the boric acid in a small quan-
tity of warm water. Mix the test of the water, with the Bay rum.
Add the menthol solution, mix and then add boric acid solution and
the glycerin. Finally add the perfume mixed with a little precipitated
chalk. Mix, age and filter as before. Add perfume to alcohol.
ASTRINGENT LOTIONS
These are intended to correct excessive oiliness and also to make
coarse pores less noticeable. Oiliness is caused by either fatty diet or
Lotions • 97
Formula 15
Alum 0.75%
Zinc sulfate 0.1
Glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 10.0
Water 78.65
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the alum in one part of water and the zinc sulfate with the
remainder of the water. Add the alum solution and then the alcohol.
Allow to stand for 24 hours and filter.
Formula 16
Procedure
Dissolve the boric acid in two pans of water with heat. Similarly,
alum using less water. Mix the formaldehyde with the glycerin, and
the perfume with the alcohol. Then add the rest of the water the
alum solution, the boric solution, the formaldehyde and the perfume
solution.
Formula 17
Procedure
Dissolve the alum in one part of water. Mix the lactic acid with the
remainderof the water. Add the oxyquinoline sulfate, then the alum
solution.
GLYCERIN LOTION
Formula 18
Cocoa-Butter helps soothe sore skin. Irritated skin may benefit from
Chamomile and Marigold. Myrrh Oil aids healthy nail growth. To
use on sore and dry skin.
Skin type: Dry skin.
Contains sesame oil which filters the sun's ultra-violet rays, and
black walnut leaves which slowly colour the skin brown and Aloe
Vera which produces a soothing effect on the skin, with a cocoa-
400 • Textbook of Cosmetics
butter base, absolutely nongreasy. To be used both before and after
sunbathing, superb for maintaining the tan.
Freckle Lotion
Potassium chloride 1.2%
Borax 1.0
Potassium carbonate 3.7
Sugar 3.7
Glycerin 9.0
Rose water 20.0
Alcohol 10.0
Distilled water 51.0
Perfume 0.4
Make separate solutions of potassium carbonate and potassium
chlorate and borax with a portion of the water. Dissolve the sugar
in the remainder of water. Add the glycerin and rose water. Mix
and then add the other solutions individually mixing before each
addition. Add alcohol and perfume,
Caution: Do not mix dry potassium chlorate with organic sub-
stances.
Freckle Lotion
Acetic acid 3.0%
Concentrated lemon juice 10.0
Glycerin 6.0
Water 70.0
Perfume 1.0
Alcohol 10.0
Dissolve the concentrated lemon juice and the acetic acid in the
water. Mix the perfume with alcohol and glycerin and add the solu-
tion to the lemon juice solution. Mix and filter.
Oral Hygenic
Products
ENTAL CARE PRODUCTS are meant for keeping the dental struc
D ture, healthy, strong and protected against any infection (oral).
These are also meant for keeping the enamel on teeth intact. These
products can be classified as normal and medicated dental prepá-
rations.
An ideal dental care product will remove dental plaque and tartar
and at the same time does no damage to the enamel of the teeth. A
tooth powder can be handled either by hand or with the help of a
brush whereas it is advisable to use a toothpaste or a gel, in con-
junction with a brush. A medicated dental product shoflld prevent/
protect dental decay.
FEEL
• A polishing agent
• A preservative
• A cleansing agent
• A colouring agent
• A flavouring agent/oil
• A bleaching agent
TOOTHPOWDERS—GENERAL FORMULAS
Formula 1
Formula 2
Formula 6
Calcium carbonate 72.0 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 2.0
Tricalcium phosphate 15.0
Neutral soap 6.5
Saccharin 0.3
Essential oils 2.2
Penicillin 1,00,000 units 2.0
100.0
104 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Charcoal Toothpowders
Formula 11
Fine levigated wood charcoal (carbolignin) is the choice raw mate-
rial.
Powdered charcoal 40 parts
Powdered cuttlefish bone 10
Prepared chalk 20
Heavy magnesium carbonate 20
Lactose 10
Clove oil q.s.
100.0
Cocoa Toothpowder
Cocoa powder inhibits plaque formation and further, the combina-
tion of the cocoa powder and flavouring jigent results in a taste
pleasing, anti-plaque oral composition for denial use.
106 • Textbook of Cosmetics
MANUFACTURE OF TOOTI-IPOWDERS
The manufacture of tooth powders is a relatively easy and simple
operation compared to other dental products. The primary objec-
tive is the homogeneous distribution of all the ingredients without
contamination by foreign substance or possible reactive equipment.
In case of tooth powders it is advisable to mix the ingredients
relatively small quantities first, before admixture with the reminder
of the components. The flavour can be sprayed into the bulk of the
powders during the mixing process, which is done in a ribbon type
mixer.
Some tooth powders tend to form lumps or resist to flow. The
process for overcoming this involves granulating the powders by
drying slurries containing the very finely divided polishing agent, a
detergent and a small amount of binder. The dried product is then
mixed with the flavouring materials. The size of the granules of the
tooth powders should be such that substantially all are retained on a
100 mesh screen but pass through a40 mesh screen.
Packing Dentifrices
Tooth powders are generally packed in metal cans with dispensing
top and closed with a metal or plastic cap. The cans are generally
made of tin-plated or chemically treated steel and may be coated
internally with a suitable lacquer.
Quality Control
It is important to standardize all factors concerned with the manu-
facture of dentifrices to ensure distribution of all ingredients uni-
formly. To do this, specifications and control procedures for the
raw and packaging materials finished product, manufacturing pro-
cedure should be written and adhered to.
LIQUID DENTIFRICES/TOOTHPASTES
In addition to the ingredients presented in the preceding sections,
dentifrices have been reported to contain astringents (zinc chloride),
Oral Hygenic Products • 107
preservatives (dischlorophene benzoate) esters of p-hydroxy ben-
zoate, formaldehyde, oxidizing agents (potassium chlorate, sodium
perborate, urea peroxide, magnesium peroxide) magnesium hydrox-
ide, glycono delta lactone and chloroform.
In many instances, the added ingredients were intended to en-
hance the efficacy of the dentifrice. Although evidence to support
this efficacy is not available in literature.
The need for care in selecting ingredients intended to fulfil a
specific purpose (such as preservatives is again evident from re-
ports where patients developed side effects due to the presence of
some such sensitive ingredients.
Formula 1
Formula 2
Formula 3
Formula 4
Formula 5
Formula 6
Formula 7
Formula 10
Manufacture of Toothpastes
GEL TOOTHPASTE
A gel toothpaste is a gas-free or substantially gas-free viscous,
extrudible paste or gel dentifrice comprising a polishing agent, a
gelling agent and a vehicle and mixing with such dentifrice bubbles
of gas of a size varying from 0.1-4 mm in diameter or containing
2-100 such bubbles per cubic centimeter of dentifrice. It is of a
viscosity sufficient to maintain the bubbles therein. The clear gel
dentifrices include polishing agents, gelling agents and vehicles, along
with an anionic detergent or a foaming agent. Other adjuvants usu-
ally present are colour, flavour, antibacterial, preservative, buffer-
ing agents and an insoluble gas, i.e., a gas which will not dissolve
objectionably in the dentifrice medium, although some of the gas
may already be present in a dissolved state to create the dispersed
bubble or sphere effect in the dentifrice.
Among the most useful polishing agents are complex alumino-
silicates such as sodium aluminosilicate and silica xerogels, which
are often partially hydrated (20%).
Gelling agents which may be useful to gelate or thicken the den-
114 • Textbook of Cosmetics
tifrice include the natural and synthetic gums and gum-like materi-
als such as sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl carboxym-
ethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, tragacanth, bean gum, statch
glycolates and carbopol 934,940, bentonite and other natural clays,
proteinaceous materials either animal or vegetable derived, syn-
thetic inorganic clays such as the silicated clays known as Laponite
CP and SP to name a few.
The gelling materials employed are gelable with polyhydric
alkanols such as glycerol and sorbitol and with water and lower
alkanols.
Glycerin 30.0%
Sorbitol (70% aqueous solution) 33.0
Laponite SP 2.0
Sodium aluniinosilicate 20.0
Sodium N-lauroyl sarcoside 2.0
Flavour (essential oils) 1.0
Synthetic sweetener (saccharin) 0.1
Colouring solution (1% aqueous, green dye) 1.0
Sodium monoflourophosphate 0.8
Water 10.1
The Laponite SP, flavour, sweetener and colouring agent are
mixed with approximately 1/3 of the glycerin and 1/3 of the sorbitol
plus 1/2 of the water and a vacuum of 700 mm Hg is applied for 10
minutes. Then, 1/3 of the glycerin and 1/3 aluminosilicate and so-
dium monofluorophosphate and similar vacuum is applied to it for
the same period of time to remove any entrained air. The sodium
N-lauroyl sarcoside is next mixed in the remaining glycerin and
sorbitol. The material is heated to 50°C and held for 5 hours with-
out the application of vacuum or for 10 minutes with the same
vacuum previously mentioned.
Then the polyhydric alkanol-gelling agent portion is mixed with
the vehicle-polishing agent-fluoride portion, at a temperature of 40°C
with the application of 700 mm Hg vacuum for 5 minutes, after
Oral Hygenic Products • 115
which the surface active agent mixture is admixed, using the same
vacuum and holding it for about 10 minutes. The mixing is done in a
Unimix mixer, equipped with Teflon scraper blades, which clear the
walls of the mixture to within 0.2 mm, leaving only a very thin film
of dentifrice thereon. The product resulting is essentially gas-free,
containing less than 0.1% by volume of entrained air. The pH thereof
is about 8. (Product pH's within the process are 5 to 9.) The prod-
uct resulting is a visually clear gel dentifrice of attractive appear-
ance.
MOUTHWASHES
Mouthwashes are liquids more aqueous in nature and are to be
applied in the mouth. They are solid or liquid concentrates which
are diluted with waterjust before use. These concentrates have an
advantage in economy of manufacture, shipping and storage but
are not accepted as popular dosage forms. Mouthwashes generally
contain:
• flavour
• Antibacterial compounds
• Penetrants
• Astringents
• Therapeutic or Preventive compounds
• Deodorants
Broadly mouthwashes are classified into:
I. Cosmetic mouth washes consisting of water and alcohol,
flavour (essential oil) and colour. May also contain some-
times surfactants (to solubilize essential oils) and to help in
penetration and cleansing of the mouth and teeth.
2. Mouthwashes with a primary function of removing or de-
stroying the bacteria in the oral cavity (solutions)
3. Astringent mouth washes, which in addition to their direct
effect on the oral mucosa, also serves the purpose of floc-
culating and precipitating proteinaceous materials so that it
can be removed by flushing.
4. Mouthwash concentrateswhich are desired for use after
116 • Textbook of Cosmetics
• 5. Buffered mouthwashes, which depend for their action pri-
marily on the pH of the solution. Alkaline preparations may
be helpful in reducing stringy saliva or reducing nauseous
deposits by dispersion of protein.
6. Deodorizing mouthwashes, which may depends on anti-
bacterial action or on other mechanism for their effect.
7. Therapeutic mouthwashes, which are formulated for the
purpose of relieving infections, preventing dental caries, or
mitigating some other pathological condition of the mouth,
teeth or throat.
The following are examples of a variety of mouthwashes.
Mouthwash Formula
Resorcinol Mouthwash
Resorcinol 5.0 parts
Zinc chloride 0.03
Menthol 0.5
Thy mo I 0.2
Eucalyptol 0.03
Camphor 0.03
Oil of peppermint 0.05
Alcohol 25.00
Glycerin 10.00
Water 59.16
100.00
Dissolve resorcinol and zinc chloride in water, and the thyrnol,
eucalyptol, wintergreen, menthol and camphor in the alcohol. Mix
the two solutions together and add glycerin. Mix for one hour, chill
and filter.
Salol-Thymol Mouthwash
Salo! 0.3 parts
Thymol 0.15
Oil of lavender 0.03
Menthol 0.03
118 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Astringent Mouthwash
Dissolve the zinc chloride and the sodium chloride in water; add
glycerin. Dissolve the rest of ingredients in alcohol. Mix the two
solutions together and filter.
Aromatic Mouthwash
Eucalyptol 1.0 parts
Menthol 1.0
Clove oil 0,5
Wintergreen oil 0.0!
Heliotropine 0.01
Chlorophyll, alcohol soluble 0.2
Water - 50.28
Alcohol 47.0
100.00
Oral HygenicProducts • 119
Dissolve all ingredients in the alcohol, and then add water. Mix
for three hours. Chill in a cooling tank 1040°F, and filler.
Orange Mouthwash
Boric acid 2.5 parts
Chlorothymol 0.1
Methyl salicylatc 0.6
Glycerine 10.0
Distilled water 86.8
Dark orange colour as desired
100.00
Acid Mouthwash
Benzoic acid 0.8 % or parts
Boric acid 1.6
Thymol 0.2
Oil of peppermint 0.3
Eucalyptol 0.2
Methyl salicylate 0.6
Chiorothyrnol 0.1
Alcohol 18.0
Distilled water 78.2
100.00
U
120 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Antiseptic Mouthwash
Boric acid US? 25.0 parts
Thymol 1.0
Eucalyptol 1.0
Menthol 1.0
Oil of gaultheria 1.0
Oil of thyme white 0.3
Benzoic acid USP 1.0
Floral extract of haptisia (Alcohol 48%) 8.0
Ethyl alcohol 25,0
Talc q.s.
Distilled water q.s. to make 100.0
Dissolve the boric acid in water and the other ingredients in al-
cohol; pour the aqueous solution into the alcoholic solution, add the
talc, and allow the mixture to stand 24 hours with occasional agita-
tion. Then filter, retaining the first portions of the filtrate until it
passes through clear. Add rest of alcohol to the filtrate and then
sufficient water to make the product measure 100 cc.
P"
Oral Hygenic Products • 121
Pilocarpine and its nitrate and hydrochloride salts, have long been
known as parasympethomimetic agents. Ingestion of pilocarpine or
its salts causes stimulation of the GI tract and stimulation of various
glands, such as salivary glands, pancreas and mucosal cells in the
respiratory tract.
Pilocarpine salts mentioned above in 10 mg dosages, three times
aday temporarily restored salivation in patients suffering from thy
mouth. But this method has a disadvantage as ingestion of pilo-
carpine may also produce undesirable side effects such as increased
sweating, constriction of pupils, increased heart rate, increased gas-
tric secretion in the stomach and increased bronchial secretions
and to obtain relief the patient is required to follow a restricted diet.
It was found that pilocarpine as a free base or as a salt may be
non digestively administered as a topical application in the form of a
diluted solution to the mucosa lining of the mouth of patients suffer-
ing form dry mouth condition to produce a long acting relief from
such conditions without undesirable systemic side effects. Pilocarpine
hydrochloride as a dilute solution of 0.75 to 1% W/w in a mouth
wash carrier is effective when gargled to produce long lasting re-
lief from dry mouth condition. Since pilocarpine and its salts are
bitter it is better to use a sweetened mouth wash carrier in order to
mask the bitter taste.
Pilocarpine hydroxide 0.025 to 1%
Sweetener I
Water q.s.
This is specially useful to patients suffering from drug induced
dry mouth, resulting from treatment with antidepressant, antipsy-
chotic, antihypersensitive, and antiallergic medications.
Denture Cleaners
Dispersion of dicalcium phosphate in montmorillonite clay has long
been known as a suitable polishing agent especially for relatively
soft surfaces. It finds application as a polishing agent for denti-
frices, silver furniture and allied items.
One problem in using dicalcium phosphate is that it is difficult to
create the sufficiently fine particle size necessary for its potential uses.
A method has been provided by researches to reduce the par-
ticle size of dicalcium phosphate by a process of utilizing sodium
montmorillonite clay to form a stable suspension without effecting
124 • Textbook of Cosmetics
the basic physicochemical properties of the negatively charged
montmorillonite platelet.
Another object is to provide a suspension of finely divided
dicalcium phosphate in the finest particle size range free of any
tendency for crystal growth.
When dicalcium phosphate is processed as described herein with
a sodium montmorillonite clay, it has been found to create an ex-
tremely effective and useful product for polishing and cleaning.
Denture Cleansing Powder
Sodium tripolyphosphate 20.0 parts
Aerosil (finely divided Si0 2) 0.5
Sodium laury! sulphate 0.3
Peppermint oil 0.5
Sodiumsaccharin 0.1
Urea 78.0
Sodium benzoate 0.6
100.0
Effervescent Soak
In this category of denture soak formulas, some contain oxidizing
agents as the source of effervescence, others a carbonate as the
source from which carbon dioxide is liberated, and still others utiliz-
ing both oxidizing agent and carbonation agents (a carbonate plus
an acid capable of releasing carbon dioxide) in a single composi-
tion. One of the problems encountered with these formulations is
the lack of stability, largely due to the hygroscopic nature of the
ingredients.
It has been found that a stable and effective denture soak prod-
uct can be formulated by the addition of solid acid anhydride to a
composition comprising oxidising agents, an inorganic carbonate
and an organic acid. Specific examples of acid anhydride include,
boric anhydride, succinic anhydride, adipic anhydride etc., to name
a few, containing at least 30% by weight of urea.
There exists a need for a cleaning agent which effects quick and
Oral Hygeriic Products • 125
Dentifrice Speckles
Speckled macroscopic visible particles for oral paste or powder
dentifrice compositions may contain in addition to organic binder
one or more functional and/or aesthetic components of the denti-
frice. The incorporation of speckles into such dentifrices in addi-
tion to enhancing appearance, has an added advantage when a
functional or active ingredient of a dentifrice is present in the speck-
ling material. These functional components when distributed ho-
mogeneously through the dentifrice can be rendered less effective
due to their tendency to react with other functional dentifrice com-
ponents, particularly on ageing.
However, their inclusion as speckles tends to keep them isolated
thereby permitting greater scope in formulations of dentifrice. The
incorporation of functional components into speckles provides sat-
isfactory stability of the component until release.
Preparation of Speckles
Speckling material
Glyceryl Iristearate 79 parts
Zirconium silicate 20
Chlorophyll
OTHER FORMULATIONS
Chewing Gums Containing Plaque Inhibitors
Tablet Toothpowder
Some manufacturers have come forward with toothpowder in tab-
let form.
rr
L'J
Hair Care
Products
AIR DRESSING ONE type or the other has always enjoyed fasci-
ation among men and women over the ages. The tombs of
Egyptian Kings (3500 BC) show evidence of use of perfumed hair
oils while the Romans and Greeks used available fats and oils for
personal grooming.
Most of the products in the earlier days were home made or
derived from secret recipes containing wines, herbs, animal and
plant by-products.
By the end of the 19" Century, some popular brands were sys-
tematically developed in collaboration with technical men with the
objective of providing cosmetic elegance besides consumer accep-
tance of the product.
The scalp normally secretes oil sebum which gives a protective
coating to the hair and prevents loss of moisture, keeps the hair in
place and provides luster. It also protects the hair and scalp form
harsh atmospheric and changing conditions. Lack of sufficient flow
of oil causes dehydration of hair which makes the hair brittle allow-
ing it to split and break.
Animal, vegetable or mineral oils and water have been judiciously
incorporated in hair grooming preparations in order to give an ideal
product.
Hair Care Products • 129
PRODUCTS OF A GOOD HAIR DRESSING
A consumer acceptable hair dressing product will give the hair good
grooming, luster without greasiness, protection from the elements
and hair conditioning to a certain extent.
Luster
For luster a glossy material is required, say an oil or a fat or a
solubilized fat which is absorbed on the air shaft.
Conditioning
Moisture is the most important feature of conditioning. The oil in
water emulsion and to a lesser extent the water in oil emulsion can
give the best moisturising condition. Lanolin, fatty acid amides and
some long chained quaternary ammonium compounds act as emol-
lients. These along with the fats and oils protect the hair form loss
of moisture and thereby minimize damage by the elements.
Brilliantines
The main purpose of a brilliantine is to add a measure of grooming
and to impart sheen to the hair.
When the natural oils of the hair are either deficient or removed
it has a dull appearance. Oil is the answer for such a problem.
Originally, vegetable and animal-oils were used. Since these natu-
ral oils tend to get rancid, they were substituted by mineral oil. This
oil is not absorbed by hair but provides a thin protective film due to
this low viscosity and penetration. The heavier the oil;the better its
grooming properties, but its spreadibility reduces. Deodorized kero-
sene can be used to dilute the heavy oil to improve spreadability
and penetration and after evaporation of the volatile, deodorized
kerosene, the thin uniform layer of viscous oil deposited on the hair
serves the twin purpose of good grooming apart from imparting
high gloss.
Liquid Brilliantines
Let us look at some liquid brilliantine formulas.
Mineral oil light 100% 75%
Deodorized kerosene - 25%
Color and perfume q.s q.s
After mixing thoroughly, filter the solution. The viscosity of the
mineral oil will vary with the final effect desired, and the method of
application. But a problem of perfuming arises here, although both
mineral oil and deodorized kerosene are relatively odour free, be-
cause of low solubility of perfume ingredients. Resinous and crys-
talline materials are insoluble and may precipitate on standing. Since
brilliance is of utmost importance the effect of ageing, sunlight and
heat on the final product should be studied. Coupling" agents can
be used for clear brilliantine. Even a small percentage of vegetable
oil, a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester or some non-ionic surfactant will
usually solubilize perfume oil.
Here are some liquid brilliantines with natural oils which have
better absorption than mineral oil.
Hair Care Products • 131
Castor oil 80% 6% 15%
Almond oil 20 49 -
Olive oil - 45 -
Deodorized kerosene - - 85
Colour and perfume - q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Procedure
Mix all ingredients and theñ filter bright. Lately lanolin has been
figuring in brilliantine compositions. However, because of its low
solubility in mineral oil i'tt' has been found that by using certain fatty
acid esters such as isopropyl mysristate or palmitate having a cou-
pling effect, its solubility can be increased. The addition of these
esters yields an ideal product because of their miscibility, resistance
to rancidity and absorption by hair fiber. Furthermore they impart
emolliency as well as gloss.
Here are some formulas illustrating the use of fatty esters.
Mineral oil 75% 38,5% - -
Ethyl myristate 25 - - -
Castor oil - 38.5 60% -
132 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Isopropyl myristate - 23.0 - -
Ethyl oleate - - 40 -
Methyl oleate - - - 25%
Olive oil - - - 75%
Colour and perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s
A large number of synthetic nonionic materials are available these
days and the one major advantage they have is that of not being
subject to rancidity. Since strong sunlight does have an adverse
effect on the hair, the use of protective additions in brilliantines
dces make sense although mineral oil by itself may be classified as
a protective since it reflects a portion of the ultraviolet light of the
sun spectrum.
Solid Brilliantines
Pomade or solid brilliantine are more or less synonymous. Origi-
nally, a pomade was the residue of fatty material left from enfleurage
process of extracting floral odours. On the other hand brilliantines
are vegetable or mineral oils hardended to desired consistency by
the addition or certain waxes.
Solid brilliantines are very useful for curly or kinky hair because
they hold the hair neatly in place. Solid brilliantines are also popu-
larly used on closely cropped hair. The lubricity is just about enough
to permit uniform spreading and therefore proper grooming.
The products are opaque and the opacity is directly proportional
to the wax content.
Here is a simple formula of solid brilliantine.
Formula 1
Stearic1cid 23%
Mineral oil 77
Colour and perfume q.s.
Procedure
Melt the two ingredients together at 70°C. Add colour and per-
Hair Care Products • 133
fume. Fill the molten product into jars and cool slowly in a warm
room for 12-18 hours. A marbled product which crumbles at the
touch is obtained.
Paraffin wax looked to be an obvious choice to give body to
mineral oil. However, it presented certain problems like crystalliza-
tion, permitting exudation of oil and shrinking on cooling leading to
the brilliantine curving away from the sides of the jar. With the
incorporation of petrolatum it was found that these problems could
be solved. Here are some formulas containing petrolatum.
Formula 2
Formulas
3 4 5 6 7 8
Mineral oil 67% 42% 86% 56% 70% 75%
Ceresm U 8 - - -r -
Lanolin 22 - - - - -
Petrolatum - 50 - - - 8
Spermaceti - - 10 22 5 -
Beeswax - - 4 22 - -
Paraffin wax - - - - 15 -
Stearic acid - - - - 10 -
Ozokerite - - - - - 17
Colour and perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Melt together all the materials at the lowest possible temperature.
134 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Add perfume as cooling occurs and fill into warmed jars. Allow to
cool slowly. Care must be taken now to work the materials, par-
ticularly when partially solidified, in order to avoid air bubbles.
Vegetable oils have been used in solid as well as liquid brillian-
tines. Formulas hereunder are suggested to indicate general pro-
portions of oils to waxes.
Formulas
9 10 II 12 13
Castor oil 50% - - 80% 44%
Almond oil 30 85% - - -
Spermaceti 20 It) - - -
Coca butter - 5 - -_
Coconut Oil - - 75% _-. -
Ceresin - 25 - -
Beeswax - - - 20 -
Petrolatum - - - - 44
Colour and perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. qs.
The synthetic waxes and some of the high molecular weight
polyoxyethylene derivatives could be used but care must be taken
in formulation since they are very lipophilic.
The perfuming of solid brilliantines is easier than that of clear
liquid preparations. The amount of perfume used in solid brilliant-
tines in usually higher than in equal quantity of liquid brilliantine
since it is less volatile in the more viscous medium and since a
much less quantity of grooming material is applied to hair.
Alcoholic Lotions
Alcoholie lotions have been popular since the beginning of the cen-
tury. By diluting viscous oils with alcohol good wetting action is
obtained and with the evaporation of alcohol, a thin uniform layer of
oil deposited on the hair. Moreover, the temporary tingling sensa-
tion of the alcohol is liked by many.
Castor oil is a ready choice among fixed oils because of its free
solubility in all proportions in alcohol. Aflother material often used
is glycerol.
Hair Care Products • 135
Formulas
16 17
Ethyl alcohol 50% 80% 60% 83%
Castor oil 50 20 10 IS
Glycerol - - 30 -
Tincture of Senzoin - - - 2
Colour and Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Tincture benzoin is said to reduce stickiness of castor oil.
All the materials are mixed well at room temperature and fil-
tered bright. Perfuming is a problem since castor oil develops a
characteristic odour on ageing although use of deodorized castor oil
may help to reduce the problem. The use of anti-oxidants is not
common in this type of product but is surely worth investigating.
Glycerol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and the newer synthetic oils
have also been used in alcoholic solutions. Here are some examples.
Formulas
19 20
Isopropyl myrstatc 5% - -
Glycerol 5 40% -
Ethyl alcohol 90 40 96%
136 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Water - 20 -
Oleic acid - - 4
Colour and Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s.
Newer non-rancidifying materials have emerged for the formu-
lation of hydro alcoholic hairdressings. They are polyalkylene gly-
cols, and are very easily soluble in alcohol or water. Less greasy
products can be obtained than with some of the other oils. Large
quantities of water can be added than with castor oil, which re-
duces dehydration.
Further solubilization of other oils in alcohols has been attempted
for instance with the aid of deodorized kerosene. Formula hereun-
der illustrates such a preparation:
Formula
Hair Tonics
The purpose of hair tonic may be categorised into 3 functions. (I) To
cure baldness, (ii) To relieve oily or dry scalp and (iii) Preventing or
curing dandruff. However, none of the tonics have achieved suc-
cess so far as growth of new crop of hair once it has been lost is
concerned.
In some cases loss of hair can be checked for reasons like wrong
treatment or carelessness leading to clogging of sebaceous glands
and hair follicles, dehydration of scalp, poor circulation or infection.
Proper care, stimulation and prophylaxis create favourable condi-
tions for a healthy hair growth, but cannot stimulate new growth on
baidhead.
Hair Cam Products • 137
Glycerol 5 -
Water 36 37.5
Oil of pimento - 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the remainder of the ingredi-
ents, and mix well. Filter bright and bottle.
3 4
Oil of bay 0.15% 0.25%
Oil of cloves 0.15
Ethyl alcohol 60.00 65.00
Tincture of quillaia 10.00
Water 29.55 34.59
Ethyl acetate 0.15
Oil of cinnamon leaf 0.05
Quassia extract, solid 0.10
Hepataldehyde 0.01
Procedure
Dissolve the essential oils in the alcohol, and the ethyl acetate or
heptaldehyde, dissolve the quassia extract in the water with heat,
and mix with the rest of the materials, stir well and filter bright.
Formulations using resorcinol and its monoacetate normally con-
tain a rubifacient, as demonstrated in formulas:
6 7 9 10
Resorcinol 5% 0.8% 0.3%
Resorcinol monoacetate 3% 2,5%
Tincture of capsicum 5
Chloral hydrate 1.5
Spirits of formic acid 20
Pine tar oil 2.7
Ethyl alcohol 85 80.0 70 93.0
Hair Care Products • 139
Castor oil 5 - . - 7 -
0-naphthol 0.8 - - -
Sulfonated castor oil 16.9 - - -
Soft soap — 0.5 - -
Potassium sulfate - 3.0 - -
Water — 93.5 - -
Methyl linoleate - - - 2.5
Cinnamon - - - 2.0
Perfume and colour 4,5. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s
Procedure
Add the tinctures and oils to the alcohol in which the resorcinol or
resorcinol mono-acetate has been dissolved; then add perfume and
colour. After stirring well, filter the batch to clarify.
Pilocarpine containing lotions can be prepared from either the
alkaloid or the tincture ofjaborandi, as indicated in formulas:
II 12
Tincture ofjaborandi 5.0% -
Tartaric acid 0.5 -
Ethyl alcohol 5.0 9.0%
Triple rose water 82.5 -
Glycerol 7.0 -
Pilocarpine nitrate 0.05
Tincture of cantharidine - 0.95
Water - 85.0
Glyceryt borate - 5.0
Perfume q.s. q.S.
Procedure
13 $4
Ammonia water 1.5% -
Sulfonated castor oil 9.5 -
Tincture of capsicum 0.8 -
Ethyl alcohol 88.2 87% 2.500%
Chloral hydrate - 3
Castor oil - 10
Potassium sulfate 5.500
Water 91.690
Hydrochloric acid 0.004
Glacial acetic acid 0.006
Pine tar oil 0.300
Perfume q. s. q.S. q.s.
Procedure
Mix the ingredients well and filter to obtain a brilliant product.
In the case of an oily scalp and mild dandruff cases frequent
shampooing and application of hair tonic specially formulated to
control secretion of the sebaceous glands. Here are some formu-
las with astringents, stimulants, and cleansing agents.
16 17 18 '9
Tannin 5.00% -
Fonnladehyde 0.75 -
Water 83.75 32,5% 56.5%
Ethyl alcohol 10.5 - 70% 40.0
Bay mm - 30.0
Rose water - 24.5 6
Ammonia 26°C - 5.0
Hair Care Products • 141
Glyceryl borate - 7.0 - -
Tincture ofcapscium - 1.0 - 3.0
Eau de cologne essence - - 10 -
Glycerol - - 4 -
Tincture of cinchona - - 4 -
Tincture ofquillaia ,- - 6 -
Chiorothymol - - - 0.1
Quinine sulfate - - - 0.1
Benzonic acid - - - 0.3
Perfume its. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Dissolve the wator-soluble materials in the water, and the oils, tinc-
tures, and perfume in the alcohol. Then mix, stir well, and filter bright.
In order to stimulate blood circulation in the scalp and control the
activity of sebaceous glands regular massage is invaluable. The
inclusion of more antiseptics like the quaternary ammonium com-
pounds or hexachlorophene along with wetting agents, which help
in the penetration of dandruff scales facilitate the removal by sub-
sequent shampooing. However, one has to be aware of the fact
that surfactants inactivate the antiseptics.
Formula
20 2! 22
Mineral oil 50% 65% 50%
Water 50% - 32
Ethyl alcohol - 35 IS
Perfume and colour q.s. q.s. q.s.
The mineral oil in turn can be partly replaced by refined veg-
etable oil according to degree of grooming required. Antioxidants
must be added to prevent rancidity. The two phases should be
mixed thoroughly and allowed to stand with intermittent stirring and
finally filtered to give a crystal clear product.
Here are some more formulas of two layer lotions.
23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Mineral oil 50% 32% 80% 28% -
Castor oil 16 2 38% -
Oliveoil 8% 10% 28 -
Deodorized kerosene ——————-5%
Seasameoil tO 32 -
Almond oil — — — — — —
Ethyl alcohol 45 58 58 18 44 57 40
Water 47 34 ————-50
Perfume and colour q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s., q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
31 32 33
Gum kamya - - 2%
Gum tragacanth, powdered 1.2% 1.0% -
Ethyl alcohol 15.0 6.0 5
Glycerol 2.0 1.0 -
Castor Oil - 2,0 -
Water 81.8 90.0 93
Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s.
Perfume and colour q.s q.s. q.s.
Hair Care Products ¶ 145
Procedure
First wet the gum with alcohol and stir slowly to expel the air. Add
the glycerol, preservative, castor oil, and perfume, and add all the
water at once. Continue to stir until all the gum is dispersed uni-
formly, Filter or strain and allow to reach its maximum viscosity
upon standing for a few hours. The addition of castor oil aids in
plasticizing the gum film and in preventing dullness.
The addition of mineral oil yields a creamy product, and due to
emulsification by the gum, apparently imparts more sheen but the
strength of the film is reduced. One such formula is given below.
Formula
Procedure
Mix the powdered tragacanth with the alcohol, add the glycerol,
perfume and the mineral oil, and then all the water. Stir until the
dispersion is complete and allow to stand for several hours to thicken
up before straining. The appearance of the product can be im-
proved by running it through a homogenizer.
35 36
Sodium alginate 1.25% 1.5%
Glycerol 2.50 3.0
Calcium citrate 0.10 0.3
146 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Procedure
Add the sodium alginate to half of the water, then add the glycerol
and perfume, and stir well to dissolve. In the meantime, dissolve
the calcium citrate in the remainder of the water, when the alginate,
solution is smooth, pour in the calcium solution. Agitate well and
allow to "body up" by standing a few hours. The glycerol can be
replaced by alcohol, if desired. The viscosity can be increased by
adding more calcium citrate or citric acid. Resins have been added
to modify the film and to give a more opaque product. Add the
tinctures directly to the alginate solutions,
Oil in water preparations were known in Europe for years but came
to be known in America only during World War II. In a way they
owe their introduction to America to the War. Because during this
time alcohols and oils were rationed and the manufacturers had to
turn to other materials. These products were an instantaneous hit
with the consumers not only because of their novelty but also be-
cause of the smooth and attractive finish good pouring and uniform
film of oils on the hair. The greasy feeling is very much reduced
and the residue is easily washable.
Furthermore, in a product like this replacement of some raw
materials by a large portion of water in preparation relieves the
manufacturer of a chunk of production costs.
Stability of emulsion is important for good shelf life. There was
a feeling that these emulsions were probably too stable as a result,
of which the inner phase was not reaching the hair. But later, it was
found that it may be partially true in the case of water-in-oil emul-
sions but not so in oil-in-water emulsions. On application the water
Hair Care Products • 147
is absorbed by the hair breaking the emulsion. This leaves behind a
film protective of the oils and fats on the oils and fats on the hair
shaft, which provides good grooming and luster.
In an emulsion the interfacial area between oil and water being
large the changes of rancidity and deterioration of the natural oils
and fats are high. Hence the selection of preservatives and anti-
oxidants play a very important role. Since there are different cul-
ture mediums, and since the possibilities of contamination are var-
ied it is difficult to select one particular preservative. It has to be
found by extensive trials to suit the situation.
The preservative must be water-soluble so that it will be present
in aqueous phase. Great care is necessary during manufacture
storage and filing of emulsions in orderto avoid contamination. Two
equally effective, mutually compatible preservatives should in use
alternatively to prevent possible build-up of resistance.
A good emulsion must possess cosmetic elegances, and should
provide gloss, should be non-greasy and easily applicable. Bees
wax is a good gloss enhancer. But it should be well noted that
excess solid content leaves a white deposit on the hair. Also the
use of number of ingredients with a wide range of melting points
results in unstable emulsions particular in freezing condition.
Oil-in-water emulsions provides uniform wetting thanks to the
emulsifiers, which lower the surface tension of the aqueous phase.
With the addition of emollients such as lanolin fatty esters, fatty
acid amides and lecithin to the oils, conditioning can be improved.
The selection of right materials in the oily phase fordesired groom-
ing is necessary. Here petrolatum and waxes not only serve the
purpose of substantiating the emulsions but also improve grooming
effect. Vegetable oils may be preferred to mineral oils to get a
better feel of the residual oils.
Gums and synthetic materials like magnesium aluminum silicate
or polyvinyl pyrrolidone have found use as fixatives and emulsion
stabilizers.
A good formulation for a hair dressing emulsion considers the
following factors: (A) Selection of an appropriate emulsifying agent,
(B) Proper balance between the oil and water phases (C) Correct
viscosity of both phases.
148 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula
37
Mineral oil 44.0%
Stearic acid 6.0
Water 48.5
Triethanolaniine 1.5
Perfume and colour q.s.
Formula
38
Mineral oil 25%
Triethanolaminc stearaLe 7
Water 65
Hair Care Products • 149
Bees wax 3
Colour and Perfume q.s
39 40
Mineral oil 43.0% 40.0%
Beeswax. white 3.0 1.5
Stearic acid 2.4 3.5
Glyccryl monostearate 0.2 -
Water 48.7 49.0
Tricthanotamine 1.2 1.5
Carnauha wax - 1.0
Stearan,ide - 1.0
Perfume in 33% carbitol solution 1-3 2.5
Colour and preservative q.s q.s
alkanolamides, lanolin esters and lanolin oils for emollience and bet-
ter grooming, some of the following formulas contain emollients
and hurnectants just discussed.
Formula
41
Mineral oil 10.5%
Lanolin, anhydrous 6.4
Stearic acid 4.7
Quince seed mucilage 3.6
Propylene glycol 14.0
Triethanolamjne 1.8
Water 59.0
Perfume and colour q.s
Preservative q.s
Procedure
Heat the propylene glycol, triethanolamine, and water to 70°C and
pour into the molten fats. When the emulsion is formed add the
quince seed mucilage, and then the perfume. The preservative
should be dissolved in the water phase.
Formula
Formula
43
Stearic acid 2%
Cetyl and stearyl alcohol, 10% sulfated 2
Soft white paraffin S
Cocoa butter 4
Mineral oil 50
Water 33
Borax
Colour and perfume q.s
Procedure
Heat the borax and water and add to the hot fats at 75 to 80°C,
with moderate stirring. Continue slow stirring until the emulsion is
cool, adding the perfume at 45°C in to oil phase and the sulfated
alcohol in the water phase to cause emulsification during the mixing
process.
The above formulas contain a combination of emulsifiers, which
yields a better product than one with a single emulsifier. The par-
tially sulfated fatty alcohols on their own are very good emulsifiers,
stearyl alcohol affords body and oleyl alcohol lends softness to the
cream. Triethanolamine sulfate instead of a sodium salt results in a
soft cream or a thinner lotion. Furthermore partially sulfated fatty
alcohols with a shortly acidic (pH) can be used. They protect acid
mantle of the scalp. Citric or tartaric acid may be used in emul-
sions made with sulfated fatty alcohols.
As mentioned earlier an emulsion contains oil and water with
sufficient emulsifier to give the desired viscosity and a stable emul-
152 • Textbook of Cosmetics
sion. Here is one such formula and the one after it for better grooming
properties.
Formula
44
Cera emulsificans 3%
Mineral oil 20%
Water 77
Perfume and preservative q.s
Procedure
Add the heated water to the melt of mineral oil and sulfate alcohols
at 75°C and stir the mixture until it is cool. This gives a fluid lotion
which, due to its low oil content, would be inadequate for control-
ling unruly hair.
Formula
45
Stearyl alcohol 5%
Mineral oil 33
Petrolatum 10
Sodium lauryt sulfate 15% solution 52
Colour and perfume q.s
Procedure
Melt the stearyl alcohol, mineral oil, and petrolatum together to 70°C,
and run this mixture into the warmed sodium lauryl sulfate solution
under agitation. Add the perfume at 45°C. Cetyl alcohol or the
softer myristic alcohol may be used to replace the stearyl alcohol.
A combination of vegetable oils and fats with partially sulfated
fatty alcohols gives less greasy hair conditioners as shown in for-
mulas below.
Hair Care Products • 153
46 47
Ceraemulsilicans 2% 15%
Peach kernel oil IS -
Beeswax I -
Castor oil 3 -
Lanolin, anhydrous - 3
Citric or tartaric acid -
Water 76 81
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s
Procedure
Dissolve the water-soluble materials in the water, heat to 75°C, and
pour into the hot oil phase. Stir until cool and add the perfume at
45°C to 50°C.
The polyhydric alcohol esters of fatty acids notably glyceryl
monostearate have been widely and successfully used to give stable
and attractive emulsions. The self-emulsifying (S.E.) grade of glyc-
eryl monostearate is very popularly used since it does not require
an anxiliary surfactant such as soap to give a stable emulsion.
An emulsions requires upto 3% of glyceryl monostearate
whereas 10% of it will give a cream. The emulsifier reduces greasi-
ness of oils provides good emolliency and is very compatible with
other oils and fats. Another great advantage it has is its easy use.
All the ingredients, water and oils can be mixed together and heated
molten (stage) and stirred. However, it (GMS) is prone to mould
attack, and the use of preservatives is prerogative. Propylene gly-
col stearate in place of the glyceryl ester yields a soft cream. The
number of esters of this type is large and only useful ones are
touched here. Diglycol stearate and laurate are most often used
after glyceryl monostearate.
Some useful esters, produced by reacting the fatty acids with
polyethylene glycol (PEG) are being widely used. (Either a hydro-
philic or lipophilic character can be obtained). Some lotions and
creams are suggested in the following formulas.
154 • Textbook of Cosmetics
48 49
Mineral oil 30% 32%
Tegin 6 10
Water 64 50
Besswax - 3
Castor oil - 5
Perfume and preservatives q.s q.s
Procedure
Melt together all these ingredients and agitate until cool. Add the
perfume at about 45°C. At first, the emulsion will have a very
characteristic gelled appearance, but upon, cooling this will thin out
to a smooth emulsion.
The purpose of lotions is usually for hair-grooming whereas the
creams, with a higher solid content are useful for hair conditioning
and treatments.
Formula 48 is a soft cream. The addition of bees wax for luster
and vegetable oils in place of mineral oil lends variety to formula 49.
As already discussed humectants are added to retard drying of a
cream, and the addition of fatty alcohols and lanolin provides a twin
action; viz., emolliency and auxilIary emulsification. By using fatty
acid condensation of sorbitol and manitol and their polyoxyeihylene
derivatives known as spans and tweens oil-in-water emulsions can
be made with less than 50% watercontent and with the availability
of a large number of emulsifiers it all boils down to the nature of
fatty materials and oils used.
Two formulas, the first one a free-flowing hair dressing and the
other a cream are given below.
50 51
Petrolatum 6.0% 15%
Mineral oil 37.5 10
Hair Care Products • 155
Lanolin 3.0 20
Beeswax 12.0 12
Arlacel 83 3.0 -
Arlacel 20 1.0 -
Span 60 - 5
Tween 20 2.0 -
Tween 60 - 5
Borax 0.5 I
Water 35.0 32
Perfume and Preservatives q.s q.s
Procedure
Heat the oil phase plus the emulsifiers to 70°C. and the aqueous
phase to 72°C and slowly add the latter, with agitation. Add the
perfume at 45°C and stir continuously until cool.
52 53 54 55 56
Tegin 12% 9,0% 13.5% 12% 3.0%
Mineral oil 2 25.0 8.5 2 8.0
Lanolin 4 3.5 10
Cetyl alcohol - 1.5
Bees wax - 1.0 '.5
Triethano]aniine stearate 7
Water 75 59.0 59.5 68 78
Glycerol - 4.5 4.5 3 5.0
Cholesterol esters - 9.0
Spermaceti - 5 2
Petrolatum - 3.0
Stearic acid - 1,0
Perfume and Preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s 4.5
57 58 59
Diglycol laurate 14%
Diglycol stearate 7% 8%
Mineral oil 20 36.0
Water 73 60 50
Castor oil 16
Almond oil 16
Perfume and preservative 4.5 4.5 q.s
Formula
60
Stearyl alcohol 0.6%
Absorption base 2.5.
Hair Care Products • 157
Diglycol distearate 6.0
Isopropylamine 0.3
Mineral oil 32.0
Stearic acid 0.6
Water 58.0
Perfume and preservative q.s
In formula 60 the isopropyl amine strengthens the diglycol stear-
ate as an oil-in-water emulsifier while the absorption base plays the
role of an antagonistic auxiliary emulsifier. This combination is of-
ten used to prevent an emulsion from breaking during application.
An antagonistic emulsifier is there to remove the watery feel of the
emulsion, while it is being rubbed into the scalp.
As a result the oil-in-water emulsion instead of separating can
invert in a multiphase one and the smooth feel is relained till the
end. Some formulas with polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives.
61 .62 63
PEG 300 monostearate - - 10.0%
PEG 400 monostearate 6.0% 4% -
PEG 400 monolaurate 0.5 1 -
Lanolin 1.0 1 -
Polyethylene glycol 2.5 - -
Water 90.0 92 54.5
Propylene glycol - 2 -
Bees wax - - 8.0
Stearic acid - - 8.0
Mineral - - 18.0
Triethanolamine - - 1.5
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
For formulas 61 and 62: Heat all the ingredients to 70°C to 75°C
stir well, and cool with moderate agitation.
Procedure for formula 63: Pour the triethanolamine water solution
into the heated oils at 70 to 75°C. Add the perfume at about 45°C
as usual.
158 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula
64
Mineral oil 49%
Stearic acid
Lime water 50
Perfume and preservative q.s.
Procedure
Melt the stearic acid in the mineral oil and add the lime water after
heating to about the same temperature. Stir until cool and add the
perfume at about 45°C.
65 66 67 68
Mineral oil 45% - - 48.0%
Oleic acid 12 20% 10% -
Beeswax 2 1 1.5 2.5
Hair Care Products • 159
Lanolin 2 0.5 - -
Lime water 19 33.5 53.8 -
Saccharated lime water 20 5 - -
Olive oil - 40 32.7 -
Magnesium sulfate, 25% - - 2.0 -
SLearicacid - - - 1.0
Absorption base - - - 5.0
Petrolatum - - - 12
Magnesium oleate - - - 2.5
Water - - - 29.0
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Add the aqueous phase at 70 to75°C to the heated oils, with moder-
ate agitation, and stir until cool. In formula 67, add the magnesium
sulfate solution after the lime emulsion has been prepared, and then
stir the emulsion until cool.
The formula below is based on the beeswax borax emulsifying
system.
Formula
69
Beeswax, white 2.5
Mineral oil 62.55
Water 34.8
Borax 0.15
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Melt the wax in half of the mineral oil and add the hot water. Then
add the remainder of the oil. Homogenization is of general value
with this formula.
The following formula of a hair cream utilises a combination of
emulsifiers.
160 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula
70
Mineral oil 40.0%
Petrolatum 19.4
Beeswax, white 17.6
Oleic acid 0.4
Lanolin absorption base 0.8
Borax 0.4
Magnesium sulfate 1.0
Sodium hydroxide 0.4
Water 20.0
Perfume and preservative q.s
Procedure
Dissolve the magnesium sulfate and the sodium hydroxide in half of
the water and the borax in the other half. Mix the two aqueous
phases and add to the heated oils, both at 65°C. Stir until cool to
45°C then add the perfume and pass through a homogenizer.
Absorption bases formulated from lanolin, lanolin alcohols,
cholesterol or cholesterol esters in combination with mineral oil,
petrolatum and waxes hold a large quality of water to form water-
in-oil emulsions. In fact, creams are produced rather than lotions,
the absorption bases play an important role in imparting high grooming
properties, stability, gloss and finish (fine texture) to the creams.
In short, a stable water-in-oil emulsion, simply consists of a right
combination of absorption base and water.
The addition of bees wax and mineral oil produces a thinner
emulsion with more gloss as illustrated in formulas given below.
71 72
Absorption base 63% 6.00%
Beeswax - 100%
Mineral oil - 60.25
Hair Care Products • 161
Glycerol - 1.50
Triethanolamine I 0.25
Water 36 29.00
Perfume q.s. q.S.
Procedure
Melt the oil phase and heat to 70°C to 75°C and slowly pour the hot
triethanolamine solution into the oil phase, with good agitation. A
polyphase emulsion is formed first, but upon continued agitation
and cooling, this changes substantially to a water-in-oil emulsion,
and no further water can be added. Homogenization will increase
the stability of the emulsion.
Arlacel 83 (Sorbitan sesquioleate) can be used in any of the
system discussed and it gives stable lotions with low viscosity with
40%-50% water content. The formulas below show its use along
with other emulsifiers.
73 74 75 77
Mineral oil 45.00% 37.5% 36,5% 33.0%
Petrolatum 8.00 7.5 8.0
Beeswax 3.00 2.0 2.0 3.5
Absorption base 7.00 -
Arlacel 83 4,00 3.0 3.0
Lanolin - 3.0 0.5 4.0
Lanolin esters 10.0
Ceralan 5.0
Zinc stearate - 1.0 -
Water 32.25 45.5 49.7 44.0
Borax 0.75 0.5 0.1 0.5
Magnesium sulfate - -i-. 0.2
Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Add the aqueous phase slowly to the oil phase at about 75°C, with
162 • Textbook of Cosmetics
moderate agitiation. Continue to stir while cooling, and add the
perfume below 45°C. Homogenization, although not necessary,
will greatly add to the shelf stability of these water-in-oil emulsions.
Care must be taken to carry this out at a given constant tempera-
ture range, lest the viscosity vary from batch to batch.
In the above formulas the beeswax-borax system is in use with
the addition of sometimes an absorption base or a polyvalent soap.
Hair Straighteners
Formula 1
Quince seed 3%
Ethyl alcohol 25
Water 72
Perfume and colour q.s
Procedure
Formula 2
Gum karaya 1.5%
Ethyl alcohol , 5.0
Hair Care Products • 163
Glycol hon-borate 1.5
Water 92.0
Preservative, colour and perfume q.s.
Procedure
Make a mucilage of karaya, then add alcohol, and water. Add the
glycol bori-borate, colour and perfume prior to passing through a
colloid mill.
Formula 3
Petrolatum 90%
Paraffin 10
Perfume and colour q.s
Procedure
Melt petrolatum and mix with paraffin and add perfume and colour,
as desired.
In formula 3 paraffin wax may be replaced by bees wax or
ozokerite. Normally paraffin is preferred because it is less expen-
sive. Ceresin is also used if a hard product is needed. Certain
resins can also be added iii this type of a product. The degree of
tackiness is directly related to wax content. Above 20% of wax
content yields to hard a product for easy application.
The product of formula 3 enjoys popular usage among male popu-
lation having too short a hair for recent techniques of hair straight-
eners to deal with.
The three formulas mentioned above have some disadvantages.
They do not effect hair chemically. Their efficacy is exclusively
based on their sticky qualities..
When curly hair is not changed chemically, it returns to its nor-
mal state. Moisture enhances this process. Bearing this in mind
pomades with water repellents like aluminium stearate were made.
But they proved to be ineffective, as they could not shield the hair
from water vapour. Here is one such preparation.
164 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula 4
Petrolatum 95%
Aluminium distearate 5
Perfume and colour q.s
Procedure
Melt the petrolatum and add the aluminium distearate, perfume and
colour.
Mme C.J. Walker conceived the idea of straightening the hair by
the physical rather than the chemical methods. A hot metal comb
and petrolatum jelly were used and the procedure was called "hair
pressing".
In this method, the hair is washed and dried completely. Then
the petrolatum product is applied to the hair. The hot comb is then
passed through the hair which as a result of which the hair is
stretched.
Here the petrolatum or "pressing oil" acts as a conductor
between the hair and the comb and serves as a lubricant enabling
easy passage of the comb through the hair without sticking and
pulling. This method is used by both men and women. The press is
used to straighten the hair, which is the one and only procedure
used for males.
The second press is employed by women. It is equivalent to the
general procedure of hair styling and curling which fascinates a
majority of them. This second press uses croquignole irons. The
second press solely used by women, as males seldom prefer waved
hair.
Laboratory trials indicate that a cooling period is required be-
tween the first and sthbnd press for a long lasting wave. Care must
be taken while using the hot comb and croquignole iron in order to
prevent the singeing of hair. This method is widely followed proce-
dure of straightening women's hair both in beauty shops and at
home.
There are limitations as far as the hot press method is concerned.
It does not insure a permanent wave set. Water and perspiration
Hair Cam Products • 165
have caused embarrassments to persons using this method although
water repellents were used but with little success,
The hot press method is to overcome resistance offered by very
curly hair to hair styling. But a person with straight hair can drive a
certain satisfaction by simply moistening the hair with water and
curling on rods and drying.
A simple formula (No.5) gives a product that is used with hot
combs and the following one (No.6) a little more complex.
Formula 5
Petrolatum 100%
Perfume and colour q.s
Procedure
Melt the petrolatum and add the perfume and colour.
Formula 6
Beeswax 7.00%
Ceresin 3.00
Petrolatum 30.00 -
Mineral oil 30,00
Water 29.25
Borax 0.75
Perfume ' q.s.
Procedure
Melt the oils and waxes on a water bath and bring to 70°C. Dis-
solve borax in water and bring to 72°C. Add latter solution to oil-
wax mixture, with rapid agitation at first. After all the water is
added, continue agitation slowly, cooling to 55°C, at which time the
perfume is added. Continue to cool with agitation to 40°C. and fill
intojars.
Formulas 7 and S represent yet another more recent type of hair
straightener with caustic alkali.
The consistency of these creams is related to the quantity of
stearate or stearic acid and oleic acid used. The alkali employed,
166 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula 7
Sodium hydroxide 5%
GAyceryl monostearate IS
Glycerol 5
Water 75
Perfume qs.
Procedure
Formula 8
Procedure
Dissolve the sodium hydroxide and glycerol in the water and heat
to 90°C. Heat the stearic acid and oleic acid to 95°C and add to the
Hair Care Products • 161
water solution with agitation. Cool with agitation to 40°C, add per-
fume and fill.
It may be noted that high alkali content in formula 8 warrants
caution on the label for the benefit of the users.
An example of one such label is given below.
Place a little petrolatum along the hairline and on the ears before
starting to use. Apply the product to the hair above forehead.
Be careful not to allow the straightener to drop on the skin. Comb
the straightener through the hair in an upward movement away
from the scalp. Repeat the combing until the hair becomes as
straight as you desire it. When straight, wash the hair in running
water to remove the hair straightener. Rinse the hair until the
soapy feeling is gone. Then wash with shampoo thoroughly.
Rinse with lukewarm water. Do not retain this rinse water; use
fresh water for every rinsing. Be sure not to use hot water.
If the hair is not thoroughly washed, the hair will turn red
quickly and may break off at the scalp. When the hair is com-
pletely and thoroughly washed, apply hair pomade. It is sug-
gested that you take the hair straightener to a barber to apply if
you don't know how. The manufacturer does not assume any
responsibility for the results if improperly used. The majority of
the people can use the straightener without any bad results. How-
ever, some, through careless handling, will burn and discolour
the hair. This is a result of the action of the individual and not the
straightener.
Thioglycolates
With the acceptance of thioglycolates permanent hair straighten-
ers, based on this group of chemicals, appeared in the market. They
were much higher priced due to greater ingredient costs.
However, the introduction of this type of a product was not smooth
due to:
I. Preparations being very different from the previous ones.
2. The necessity to provide highly detailed instructions to the
user, which made the manufacturers job that much more
elaborate.
168 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula 9
Procedure
Formula 10
Procedure
Dissolve the sodium bromate in the water and propylene glycol and
heat to 60°C. Add the mixture of the remaining ingredients, which
have been heated to 60°C. Cool to 35°C, with agitation, add per-
fume, and package. Because of the high concentration of salt (so-
dium bromate), this product may have a tendency to separate over
a period of time, especially in hot weather. It is therefore advisable
to use a 'shake well' label.
There have been debates within the cosmetic industry on the
value of neutralizers being included in hair straighteners as well as
waving preparations.
Nevertheless, hair straighteners can derive certain benefits with
the incorporation of a neutralizer.
In order to insure optimum activity a greater deal of control is
necessary in the manufacture of thioglycolates than some other
cosmetic products. Further, all raw materials must be thoroughly
checked for metallic content including the perfume and the free
alkali to be uniform. Iron, manganese and cobalt are to be avoided
as they may cause catalytic decomposition of the mercaptan. The
raw materials used for thioglycolates must fulfil the following con-
ditions as per the directive of the Toilet Goods Association.
Tablet: Toilet Goods Association Specification for Thioglycolates
Ash 0.05% maximum
Thioglycolate 45 to 55% as Lhioglycolic acid
Dithioglycolate 2% max. as thioglycolic acid
Iron I part per million max. as Fe
Copper I part per million max. as Cu
Lead I part per million max. as Pb
Arsenic I part per million max. as As203
Hair Care Products • Ill
Method of Application
The use of thioglycolates should be proceeded by a careful study of
instructions that go along with the methods of application. For ex-
ample:
• Do not use hair straightener if you have abrasions or cuts on
your scalp. Wait until they have healed before straightening
your hair.
172 • Textbook of Cosmetics
• Do not straighten your hair if you are sick or under the care of
a doctor without consulting him first, since your hair is af-
fected by your physical condition.
• Do not substitute hot water when directions call for warm
water.
• Do not use the treatment unless you use all of the neutralizer
in the kit. You must use the neutralizer as directions state.
For those with damaged hair, here are further instructions:
• Do not use hair straightener if your hair has been abused. If
you have used hot combs, marcel irons, harsh lye straighten-
ers, dyes, or bleaches, you may have abused your hair. For
this condition, we recommend the use of hair conditioner for
about two weeks or longer before straightening, to help re-
condition the hair.
The use of comb on the scalp which is softened due to the appli-
cation of thioglycolate needs to be done with care lest irritation or
abrasion leading to infection may occur. If it is a shampoo type hair
straighteneij it should be prevented from getting into the eyes dur-
ing its application.
For hair straightening, the hair must be thoroughly cleansed of
greasy oily, resinous films before application of the thioglycolate
product if satisfactory results are desired. After the initial treat-
ment combs or lye products are discouraged. Furthermore, a lim-
ited application or use of thioglycolate products is recommended be
it for waving or straightening particularly for the latter purpose.
This is limit being 3 or times a year.
However hair straighteners in general are designed for the pur-
pose, for which it is considered advisable that the reaction of the
hair to the straightener rather than for texture of the hair, be the
determining factor during the processing period.
Subsequently several new developments and formulations have
surfaced in hair straightening. The one described in formula II is
different in its chemical composition from all the others known.
This product does the process of hair straightening by destroying
the hydrophilic properties of the hair fiber by forming condensation
Hair Care Products • 173
Formula 11
POWDERS
BLEACHES
CHEMICAL BLEACHES
COLOURING OF HAIR
A variety of products are used to affect the colour of the hair like
powders, crayons, lacquers and certain rinses. But all of it should
be easily removable. A general hair colouring powder consists of
Formula 1
Talc 20%
Starch 25
Potato meal 45
Powdered orris root to
CRAYONS
These are sticks or blocks of colouring materials with handy shapes
originally introduced for retouching of new hair in between perma-
nent dye applications. These are made of mixtures of natural or
synthetic waxes, with soap such as triethanolamine stearate, into
which dyes or pigments are thoroughly incorporated (in different
shades) simulating the average colours of natural hair so that they
blend with other dyes that may be on it. The consistency of the
finished product is such that the colour can be easily applied as the
stick is rubbed directly over the hair or transferred from the stick to
the hair.
Formula 2
Mix water and glycerol add gum arabic to half of this solution and
allow it to stand. Add stearic acid to reminder and warm mixture
until it is dissolved. Mix all ingredients and add colour and mill thor-
oughly. Run paste into moulds and dry in heat.
Formula 3
Triethanolaminc 7.0%
Glyceryl monolaurate . 5.5
Gum tragacanth 2.5
Stearic acid 13.5
Bees wax 50.0
Camaubawax 13.5
Ozokerite 8.0
Colour q.s.
Procedure
Heat the first three ingredients to 70°C. Add stearic acid and raise
temperature to 75°C. Melt waxes at 75 to 80°C. Add them to other
mixture and stir until well blended. Add colour and mix thoroughly.
Pour into moulds at 68 to 70°C.
COLOURED RINSES
Coloured rinses or tint rinses for the hair were originally patterned
on a similar product commonly used to restore or change the shade
of lingerie, curtains, or other articles used in the household.
These are similar to acid rinses used as accessories to a sham-
poo. The base may be tartaric acid, adipic, citric, acetic and other
acids have also been used alone or in combination. All dyes should
be selected from the officially permitted food colours of FDA.
178 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Table I: Certified Colours for Hair Rinses
Colour Shampoos
Azo dyes have been combined with shampoos of different types.
The earlier products of this kind, used a base of neutral soap in
small cakes, but they were dissatisfactory. Present colour sham-
poth are based on synthetic surface active agents, with wetting
and detergent properties and with colours ranging over 10 shades
suitable for blond hair.
pq
180 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Wave Sets
The mucilages and gums both natural and synthetic which are used
for setting the hair in finger waving or sculpture curls, can also
serve as carriers for various colours.
Lacquers
PERMANENT COLOURING
Henna Shampoo
Henna Mixtures
Chamomile
In Western Europe, Great Britain and USA two varieties of
Anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile) and Maticarra Chamomile
(German or Hungarian) are used in extract form. The colouring
principle is apigenin 4,5,7 trihydroxy flavone. A combination of
Henna and Chamomile can also be used as a rinse, a pack or a
shampoo.
Commercial Rinse
Powdered (Roman) Chamomile 40.0%
Oil of Chamomile 0.2
Alcohol 20% to make 100.0
Extract can be obtained by percolation.
182 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Chamomile Pack
Chamomile ulorates, powdered mixed with Kaolinor fuller's earth
and made into a thin paste with boiling water.
Chamomile Shampoo
Marketed either as powder or as a liquid.
German Chamomile (Powdered) 10%
Mild organic acid 5
Sodium lauryl sulphate 85
Oil of Chamomile q.s. for perfume
Liquid Shampoo
Chamomile infusion 10%
Sodium lauryl sulphate 3040%
Water 60-50%
Chamomile-Henna mixtures
Chamomile 75
Henna 25
Wood Extracts
Decoctions of woody fibres bark or nuts from several trees are
also used as dyes.
Catechu
Acacia catechu is brown to black. The active principle is catechin
(Catechol). Catechu and tannic acid in combination produce all
shades from blond to black and act as mordants as well.
Fu St IC
The wood of chiorophora (Morus), Machura tinctoria in which the
active principles is morin. This produces yellowish to brown shades
under different conditions.
Log Wood: (Black wood, Compectic Wood) The heartwood of
Hair Dyes • 183
haernatoxylin, gives an active principle haematoxylin which when
oxidised is responsible for imparting black colour and nullifying red
shades of the hair.
Nutgalls
These are excrescences on leaves and twigs or other
tissues of white oak tree (Quercus infectoria) caused by invasion
of bacteria, certain worms, or insects. These little nuts which are
especially rich in tannin and gallic acid, serve as a source of pyro-
gallol which in turn is the source of rastiks, (hair dye).
Quercitron
The inner bark of another species of oak tree Quercus infectoria,
gives an active principle quercitin. This bark is usually combined
with rustic and logwood to produce dark brown shades.
Wa U n Ut
The leaves of walnut trees Juglans cincrea. J.nigra and J.regia were
used as a source for imparting a brown shade. But as the colour is
not long lasting, the ground shells are used in mixture with other
colour producing substances.
SYNTHETIC DYES
Most of the synthetic organic dyes contain pyrogallol and also the
no and other dyes popularly known as coloured rinses. These are
all oxidizable dyes. The first dye that was attempted on human
beings was pyrogallol. Many of the natural substances contain py-
rogallic acid oxidised from pyrogallol. Pyrogallol solution in alka-
line pH gradually develops black shade/colour. Pyrogallol with plant
derivatives can be formulated into effective hair dye packs.
Amino dyes
The first dye was phenylenediatnine, which is effective in 1-3% of
alkaline solution followed by oxidation with an oxidising solution.
This became popular due to its lustrous natural black colour in con-
trast to other dull colours.
Many pro jrietary products were available commercially. After
the introduction of these aminodyes like compound henna etc.
p-amino phenylamine dyes were introduced into the market. The
next development was towards shampoo vehicles for shampoo, im-
parting tints.
Formula 1
Oleic/Coconut fatty acid 5-25%
Propylene glycol 5-15%
Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to neutralise fatty acid
Water q.s. to make 100
Hair Dyes • 185
Formula 2
Clear Liquids --
Shampoo Shades
Formula A
Formula B
Modified Shampoos
Solvent for intermediates
Ammonium hydroxide 26°C 10%
Isopropanol 25%
Perfume 0.5%
Base Solvent for intermediates
Ammonium hydroxide 10%
Is op ro p a no 25
Perfume 0.5
Base:
Oleic acid 35.0%
Polyoxysothitan monooleate 10.0
Nonionic surfactant 3.50
Water soluble lanolin 1.75
Lecithin 1.25
Chelating agent 0.25
Water to make IOthOO
Procedure
Colour Shampoos
These are intended to impart merely a temporarary tinge of colour
Hair Dyes • 187
Cream dyes
These were introduced in Germany in 1950's. Basically these are
like cream shampoos. The product/dye is packed in tightly sealed
tubes from which a measured amount is squeezed out and mixed
with hydrogen peroxide. These are meant for use in beauty shops.
Miscellaneous
Amino dyes in the form of powders and capsules. There are also
cakes from which the colour was supposed to develop directly on
hair previously treated with hydrogen peroxide.
Metallic Dyes
A lead comb dipped in vinegar serves as a dyer. Dilute solutions of
lead acetate or nitrate, sulfur, glycerol, rose water are in the com-
position.
Formula
I_cad acetate 1.5%
Precipitated sulfur 0.2
Glycerol 1.5
Distilled water or rose water to make 100.00
188 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula A
Formula B
Formula A 25%
Sodium thiosulfate 75
Procedure
Silver Dyes
All silver salts darken on exposure, Silver dyes come in two fold
packing. One containing silver nitrate and the other a developer.
The principle behind this is all silver salts darken on exposure to
light and silver combines readily with protein forming a brown stain.
The silver dyes are dispersed in two bottles one containing silver
nitrate, the other containing a developer, with sodium, potassium,
ammonium hydro sulfides or pyrogallol. With sulfides, the silver
sulfide (Black) is deposited directly on the hair and with the latter
i.e., pyrogallol the silver salt acts as a mordant. Later varying
amounts of ammonia were added to the silver solution thereby pro-
ducing a fair grade of shades. After shampooing the hair, the dye is
applied and washed with a restorer like ammonia or hypo silver
dyes which are more satisfactory than lead dyes.
Procedure
Silver nitrate and ammonia water are mixed till a clear solution is
obtained and stored in a dark place. Silver nitrate may also be pre-
pared as pomade or preferably as a water miscible cream.
As there are two different solutions, the consumer may make an
incomplete application. Dyes of this type therefore are not so satis-
factory but are nevertheless popular.
Copper Dyes
Miscellaneous
Compound Henna
Henna with indigo, Iogwood, or any other natural colouring material
190 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Disadvantages
1. In general, these dyes leave different shades on the hair.
2. The texture of the hair is likely to become rough. Regula-
tory affairs and clinical evaluations are not available satis-
factorily.
p-Phenylamine dyes were discouraged due to complaints from
customers and the sale was controlled by FDA and a preliminary
test for Dermatitis was imposed. Similarly clinical testing is obliga-
tory before launching the product into the market.
Dye Removers
Most of the dye removers contain decolorisers like hydrogen per-
oxide or hydro chloride. However, there is no single safe, quick-
removal process for all old dyes. A cosmetologist or an experi-
enced hair dresser only can do this. Soaking in oils or mixture of oils
is the safest removing of hair dye. Sulfonated castor oil with sali-
cylic acid is another example of a safe henna dye remover.
Sodium hydro sulfide Na2S204 in 2.5% solution is also in prac-
tice.
Future Scope
Hair dyes and dye removers, preferably natural are desirable. Al-
though henna indigo mixture is still the most xecommended, some
newer plants need to be discovered and brought into formulations.
Scope for research in this field is very vast.
I!J
Cosmetics
for Nails
Anatomy of Nails
The nails grow out of the cuticle or horny layer of the skin in the
cells of the nail matrix. These cells consist of granular layers which
have the capacity to grow. The matrix is located within the half
192 • Textbook of Cosmetics
moon or white arc at the base of the nail. This half moon, called
lunula, is not visible on all fingers and toes. The nail does not get a
direct blood supply but is connected to blood vessels through the
nail bed. Nail growth varies from person to person from season to
season. Like unhealthy hair is characterized by poor growth, ab-
normal condition of the nail reflects ill health in other directions.
There is no application that stimulates nail growth. An injury to the
matrix results in a permanent injury to the nail. A healthy nail grows
at the rate of 1/32-1/16 inch per week. Proper care of the nail by
use of friction which increases blood circulation and emollient creams
to keep the cuticle surrounding them clean helps in maintaining
healthy nails.
Manicure Preparations
The care of nails is called manicuring. Manicure preparations have
become an important part of Cosmetic industry and the sale of
these products is ever raising. These preparations include:
1. Nail Polish or Enamel
2. Polish Remover
3. Powder Polish,
4. Paste Polish
5. Nail Cream
6. Nail Bleach
7. Cuticle Remover
8. Cuticle Softener
9. Naillint
The most popular amongst these preparations is nail enamel. It
was first popularized as a colourless transparent coating. Later it
was slightly tinted. Presently this coating is sold in limited quanti-
ties. However, the demand for an opaque lacquer in numerous
shades which lends the nails a smooth, flashy, flexible coating
and covers any blemishes is high. Red and shades of red arepopil-
lar.
Cosmetics for Nails • 193
FORMULAS
Nail Enamel
Form 1
Nitro cellulose (I Second Vis) 10.0%
Ethyl acetate 50.0
Butyl acetate 20.0
Diethyl phthalate 15.0
Camphor 4.5
Colour (dye) 0.5
Dissolve the nitrocellulose and the camphor in the ethyl acetate.
Add the rest of the ingredients. Perfume and colour as desired.
Form 2
Celluloid clear 25.0%
Acetone 50.0
Amyl acetate 25.0
Oil Pink 0.2
Rhodaniine B 0.01
Form 3
Nitro cellulose thy 10%
Anhydrous methyl alcohol 75
Ethylene glycol monornethyl ether IS
Form 4
Glycerin 0.5%
Purified sulfuric ether 4.65
Zinc oxide 15.0
Acetone 19.0
Amyl acetate 18.0
Butyl alcohol 22.0
Pure celluloid 20.0
Olive oil 0.5
196 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Ultramarine 0.15
Lavender oil 0.2
Form 6
Butyl stearate 35.0%
Isopropyl alcohol 65.0
Form?
Castor oil 10.0%
Dibuty! phthalate 40.0
Ethyl acetate 50.0
Form 8
Glycol methyl ether 97.0%
Peanut oil 2.5
Perfume 0.5
Form 9
Glycol ethyl ether 46.0%
Ethyl acetate 15.0
Paraffin 5.5
Beeswax 6.5
Stearic acid 20.0
Triethanolamine 6.0
Perfume 1.0
Cosmetics for Nails • 197
Before the advent of fingernail enamel, polishing powders, and
pastes enjoyed as much popularity as the enamel enjoys today. Even
today they find considerable use among certain classes.
Form 11
Tin oxide 83.0%
Carnauba wax 4.5
Fuller's earth 6.0
Oleic acid 4.0
Tincture of benzoin 2.0
Benzyl benzoate 0.5
Form 12
Tin oxide 70.0%
Talc 20,0
Rice starch 10.0
Form 14
Rosin 8,0%
198 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Spermaceti 5.0
Carnauba wax 5.0
Tin oxide 30.0
Zinc oxide 10.0
Petrolatum, short fibre, soft 30.0
Kieselguhr purified 12.0
Melt the rosin, spermaceti, carnauba wax and petrolatum to-
gether. Sift in the dry materials while mixing as before. Add a suit-
able perfume.
Creams for direct application to the nails and for softening the
cuticle enjoy considerable popularity particularly among "manicur-
ists".
Here are some illustrative formulas of Nail cream.
Nail Cream
Form 15
Petrolatum, short fibre 24.0%
Cholesterol in absorption base 20.0
Cetyl alcohol 5.0
Cocoa butter 5.0
While beeswax 12.0
Borax 0.5
Water 23.0
Tincture of benzoin 10.0
Perfume 0.4
Preservative 0.1
Heat thèwater and dissolve the borax in it. Melt the petrolatum,
absorption base, cetyl alcohol, cocoa butter, and beeswax. Add the
borax solution and mix thoroughly. Add the preservative and per-
fume, dissolved in the tincture ofbenzoin.
Cosmetics for Nails • 199
Cuticle Softener
Form 16
Cholesterol in absorption base 25.0%
Petrolatum 17.0
Beeswax 10.0
Sulfonated castor oil 24.0
Sodium lauryl sulfate 4.0
Trisodiura phosphate 2.0
Water 17.5
Perfume (alkali stable) 0.5
Cuticle Cream
Form 17
Lanolin absorption base 25.0%
Lanolin 10.0
Mineral oil 19.0
Water 45.0
Perfume 1.0
Form 18
Anhydrous lanolin 10%
Paraffin wax refined 10
Beeswax 25
White rose oil 5
Petrolatum Superla white 5
Distilled water 25
Boric acid crystals
Alkanet colour (1:10 in mineral oil) 7
Perfume 12
200 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Nail White
Form 20
Stearic acid 22.0%
Mineral oil 7,5
Triethanolamine 2.0
Titanium dioxide 7.5
Glycerin 7.0
Water 53.0
Perfume 1.0
A nail bleach may be made as follows;
Form 21
Oxalic acid 0.25%
Citric acid 10.25
Rose water 89.5
Cosmetics for Nails • 201
Dissolve the acids in the rose water. Straight hydrogen peroxide
is also used as a nail bleach.
Due to the universal smoking of cigarettes many finger, particu-
larly under the nails, become stained with the volatile portion of the
cigarette tobacco or paper. The products to remove these are named
nicotine removers.
Nicotine Removers
Form 22
Beeswax 10.0%
Paraffin 5.0
Mineral oil 46.0
Pumice 8.0
Borax 0.5
Water 30.0
Perfume 0.5
Form 23
Glacial acetic acid 40%
Aluminium sulfate 32
Fine pumice 8
Water IS
Perfume 2
Mould while moist
The cuticle around the nail has a tendency to grow over the nail
in a thin irregular layer. This is usually removed by softening it with
a cuticle remover and then pushing the softened layer down and off
the nail with an orange stick. Cuticle removers consist of caustic
alkalies and must be handled cautiously. Two typical formulas are
given:
Form 24
Potassium hydroxide 3.0%
Glycerin 8,0
202 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Form 25
Sodium hydroxide 5%
Water 44
Alcohol S.D. 40
Propylene glycol 10
Perfume
lb_^
w
Antiperspirants and
Deodorants
OSMETIC DEODORANTS these days are available in a variety of
C forms in practically every store. These products remove or
decrease the malodour of perspiration, prevent its development, or
do both. A survey shows that lately these products are becoming
increasingly popular and have flooded the market. There is at least
one advertisement of deodorants during every television programme.
It shows the growing public awareness, male and female, of the
unpleasantness of perspiration odour, and the will to do something
about it.
The odour of perspiration varies from person to person. The
causes may be several. It could be the physical condition, activity
of the person, emotional state or diet. To combat this unpleasant
odour it is imperative to develop some products to counteract the
smell, or reduce the flow of excess perspiration.
A variety of products with astringent properties are said to react
with the proteins of the skin and cause coagulation, causing swell-
ing which in turn blocks the pores of the skin, reducing the flow of
sweat.
The salts of such metals as aluminum, iron, chromium, lead, zir-
conium, mercury and zinc have astringent properties. But not all
are used for preparing anti-perspirants, as some produce discolora-
204 • Textbook of Cosmetics
LIQUID ANTI-PERSPIRANTS
Liquid anti-perspirants mostly contain an aqueous or hydroalcoholic
solution of an astringent salt, a small amount of humectant, a per-
fume, a dispersing agent for the perfume and a deodorant. They
are generally applied in the form of a spray. If aluminum chloride
or sulfate is used as an astringent salt, then a buffer is needed.
Al2C13 is an irritation causing compound and should be used in low
208 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part A
Alcohol 50%
Propylene glycol 5.0
Hexachlorophene 0.1
Perfume q.s.
Part B
Aluminum chlorohydroxide 15.0
Water 29,9
Procedure
Procedure
ANTIPERSPIRANT LOTIONS
Antiperspirant lotions do not have as big a market as antiperspirant
creams. The emulsion type lotion basically has the same manufac-
turing procedure as that used for a cream. The finished emulsion
has to be carefully tested for emulsion stability with age and change
in temperature, and viscosity with age.
ANTIPERSPIRANT STICKS
Antiperspirants have also been developed in the form of sticks.
There is the waxy type using zinc sulfonate and oleate in a waxy
base. It is not strongly astringent.
Mother type of antiperspirant stick is made by a combination of
astringent chloride with a hard wax dissolved by heating in alcohol.
It will form a solid gel on cooling. If a higher ester or fatty acid is
added, the texture and rigidity of the product improves. E.g. 22.5gm
Al2C13 H2 0 12g candelilla wax 16g stearic acid boiled in a reflux
condenser with an alcoholic menstrum consisting of isopropyl alco-
hol 90% by volume. When all the-solid ingredients were effected
into a solution and cooled, and packed in container, it forms a solid
mass of smooth salve like consistency which could be applied on
the skin to deodorize perspiration.
ANTIPERSPIRANT POWDERS.
Of all the antiperspirant products the antiperspirant powders are
fht U? 1
the least effective. This is probably bpcduse the quantity of pow-
der adhering to the skin is not suffiienieStgh to stop the flow of
perspiration. One product could be rriade by miing25 pans of an
alkali metal phosphate, mixed with lcopodium (5 parts) and talc
(70 parts).
4(1
j '(1•
Antiperspirants & Deodorants • 213
TEST METHODS
DEODORANTS
DEODORANT POWDERS
Formula 1
Talc 70%
Light precipitated chalk 10
Boric acid 10
Zinc oxide 9
Zinc phenolsulfonate
Perfume q.s.
Formula 2
Talc 84.0%
Boric acid 3.0
Chalk 12.0
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Hexachlorophene 0.5
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
LIQUID DEODORANTS
DEO CREAMS
Formula 3
Part A
Hexachlorophene 0.5%
Glyceryl rnonostcaratc 10.0
Stcaric acid 4.0
Cetyl alcohol 2.0
Isopropyl myristate 4.0
216 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part B
Potassium hydroxide LU
Water 66.5
Propylene glycol 12.0
Perfume q.s.
A deodorant cream of heavier body serves to absorb malodor-
ous materials from the skin surface, at the same time prevents
formation of bad odour, by its antibacterial ingredients.
Formula 4
Part A
Arlacel C 4.0%
Ceresi n 6.0
White petrolatum 8.5
Mineral oil 20.0
Lanolin 4.5
Part B
Magenisium sulfate 0.15
Water 21.85
Zinc-oxide 15.00
Zinc stearate 10.00
Aluminum phenolsulfonate 10.00
Perfume q.s.
Water-in-oil type emulsions are satisfactory deodorant creams.
Since they can be rubbed into the skin, and yet not make the skin
feel greasy.
DEODORANT STICKS
Deodorant sticks with no antiperspirant have also been found in
stick form. O'Neil had made a preparation of 25% zinc oxide 25%
boric acid 33% spermaceti 16.75% petrolatum, and 0.25% petro-
leum oil moulded in a stick form which rubs off as a thin film when
applied on the skin.
Antiperspirants & Deodorants • 217
Another increasingly popular type of deodorant stick is made
with 5% to 10% sodium stearate, or with hard soaps 2 105% of
humectant, the necessary alcohol and perfume.
The gel may be formed by dissolving soap in warm alcohol or
saponification of an alcoholic solution of stearic acid with sodium
hydroxide.
The solidifying temperature will vary with the concentration of
soap. This then is poured hot into moulds.
Formula 5
Formula 6
Formula 7
The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act includes certain provi-
sions which apply to the labeling of preparations for which claims
are made to antiperspirant action. A product falls under the label
"drug" as stated by this Act, if it is capable of reducing the flow of
sweat because by doing so, it is affecting the normal bodily func-
tion. The ingredients responsible for this must be mentioned on the
label, along with other information required by the Act.
Deodorants, which only claim to reduce the odour of sweat and
nothing else, fall under the label of cosmetics and must comply with
the requirements for such products.
If a cosmetic product claims to be antiseptic, it falls under that
part of the Act which says that the product has antibacterial
perfomance required of a preparation as designated.
According to the federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, a drug
or cosmetic will be called misbranded if its label is false or mislead-
ing. Eg. an antiperspirant may be claimed to "check" or "reduce"
perspiration rather than "stop" it. Deodorants preparations may be
said to "decrease" or "stop" temporarily the odour or sweat.
The ultimate test of deodorants, or that of any product is by its
usuage by the consumer. The ideal deodorant, is probably the one
which has maximum antiperspirant and deodorant efficacy, and a
pleasing perfume at the same time, easy to apply and leaves no
uncomfortable residue on the skin. It should not stain or corrode
fabrics, shelf life should be long without changing its efficacy.
10
Sun Screens
Formula 1: Suntan
Formula 2: Suntan
Homomethyl salicylate 5%
Ceresin (65°C) 15%
Peanut oil 80%
Perfume, colour and antioxidant q.s
Glyceryl p-aminobenzoãte 3%
Propylene glycol ricinoleate 10
Glycerol 10
Alcohol 65
Water 12
Perfume and colour q.s
222 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part A
Stearic acid 200%
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Methyl anihranilate 5.0
Part B
Ammonia (260) 1.0
Sodium hydroxide 0.4
Glycerol 10.0
Water 63.1
Perfume q.s
Part B
Triethanolamine 1.0
Water 90.0
Perfume q.s
Calamine 15.0%
Petrolatum, yellow 37.5
Lanolin 12.5
Water 35.0
Perfume and colour q.s.
Sun Screens • 223
Sesameoll 15.0
Calcium stearate 10.0
Kaolin 30.0
Sunscreen, approved 3 to 8
Treatment of Sunburn
Serious sunburns are usually referred to a physician. Lesser ones
but nevertheless painful may be treated by palliative preparations
preferably liquid with low viscosity. A mild antiseptic may be added
to prevent infections. Tannic acid solutions which was earlier used
for treatment of different burns have since lost favour with the
medical authorities. While oil-in-water lotion are both cooling and
soothing. Oils and greases are not used because they tend to pro-
duce the effect of a cover or a blanket on the skin thereby prevent-
ing escape of heat. Further, they may interfere with the action of
analgesic and antiseptic substances present in the formulation. Pro-
pylene glycol is used in these formulations as a mild antiseptic.
Few examples of palliative mixtures.
RAW MATERIALS
All the raw materials that are chosen are to be pure, safe, nontoxic
and non-irritating for any of these formulations. Equally the fin-
ished products should also be checked for the same qualities.
Pigments: The main purpose of eye-make up is to accentuate the
Eye-Makeup Products • 227
area of the eye with colour. Coal tar colours alone are not permit-
ted; only inorganic pigments and natural colours are permitted by
the licensing authorities. The main colouring agents are carbon black,
iron and chromium oxide pigments, and carmine NE All these colours
should be insoluble in water or oil soluble and must be very pure.
Black: Either Carbon black; or Vegetable or Charcoal black or
Iron oxide black.
Blue: Prussian blue, or Ultramarine blue.
Brown: Iron oxides, Sienna shade.
Yellow: Iron oxides, Ochre shade.
Red: Carmine NF (Aluminum lake of the cochincal pigment)
In order to change to lighter shaded titanium dioxide or zinc ox-
ide are used.
Raw Materials
Petrolatum: The white short fiber variety with a melting point of
43°C is recommended. Its physical properties and its higher stabil-
ity are of great value in making these products.
Lanolin: A cosmetic grade and anhydrous variety with melting
point 38°C to 40°C is used in eye shadows and mascaras for its
lubricating and adhering qualities.
Ceresin: A microcrystalline mixture of hydrocarbons of complex
composition, ceresin is available in various grades with melting points
over a wide range for eye products. The 68°C melting point grade
is recommended. Its use enables the formulator to stiffen the prepa-
ration and flexibility (malleability).
Carnauba Wax: This wax is available in several grades. he yel-
low No. 1, melting point 85°C purified and bleached is recommended,
particularly for its high melting point. It forms a film, which is water
repellent, and it counteracts the solubilizing action of soaps in wa-
ter, which is a desirable quality in mascara formuations. Finally,
carnauba wax gives a luster to the dried application.
228 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Special Products
Although there are many varieties of eyeshades, the liquefying type
of the cream is most popular. But such a cream should possess
easy spreadability, and the stability of the colour on the eyelids with-
out giving a shiny appearance to that part of the face.
A few desirable shades of eye shadow are given below.
(a) Blue: 20 pans Ultramarine, 10 parts Titanium dioxide
(b) Green: IS parts Titanium dioxide 10 parts Chromium oxide
green.
(c) Brown: 30 parts Iron oxide (Sienna shade) 5 parts Tita-
nium dioxide.
(d) Violet: 20 parts of Ultramarine 10 parts of Titanium dioxide
+ a small quantity of Carmine NE
Darker shades can be obtained by increasing the percentage of
ultramarine and decreasing the percentage of titanium dioxide.
For evening glitter, a small amount of pearl powder is pressed
over the tinted eye shadow. To get a "gold" effect aluminum pow-
der with various pigments can be used.
A general formula for a liquecying cream eye shadow.
Formula 1
Petrolaluni white (IT) 65%
Lanolin anhydrous 38-40°C 5
Ceresin white 67°C 10
Bees wax white 5
Mineral oil 65/75 IS
Procedure
Mix the required amount of titanium dioxide with colours with the
melted petrolatum. Then grind the mixture through a roller mill. In a
separate container, melt together the other ingredients and add the
ground colour paste to this molten mixture, stirring the entire mass
well. Pour the melted product directly into container, with a hand
filler.
Eye-Makeup Products • 229
However1-the proportions of the ingredients can be varied at the
discretion of the formulator for e.g.
Formula 4
Stcaric acid (Triple pressed) - 6%
Triethanolamine 4
Petrolatum jelly soft fiber type 25
Anhydrous wool fat 5
Propylene glycol 5
Water 45
Colour q.s
Procedure
Heat all the waxes put together and melt at 70°C, Heat the water
and the triethanolamine to the same temperature. Add the water
230 • Textbook of Cosmetics
phase slowly tot the melted waxes and stir until room temperature
is reached. The pirnents should be ground in.
The stick eye shadow is today as popular as the cream form.
.,
Formula 5: Stick Eye Shadow
Formula 7
Formula 8
EYEBROW PENCILS
There are two types of pencils. The crayon and the extruded pen-
cil. The crayon is similar to a cream type eye shadow. The colours
used are of the same character as those used in the latter, but the
black and brown pigments are used in higher percentage.
The extruded eyebrow pencil although formulated as a crayon,
is packed in wooden casing.
MASCARA
Mascara is one of the most ancient toilet preparations; being in use
since biblical times. Its purpose is to make the eyelashes appear
longer, thereby enhancing the beauty of eyes. Mascara should not
have a tendency to run. It should permit easy and smooth applica-
tions on the lashes. It should not dry out too quickly and it should not
"cake" or give a bristling effect to the lashes.
232 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Procedure
Carefully sift the pigment and combine with the soap chips. Pass
the mixture several times through a mill and then through a podder.
Finally press into cakes.
Although these types of products are still available in the market
triethanolamine oleate or stearate is finding increasing favour in the
market. These triethanolamine salts enable a product of lower al-
kalinity, with a lesser irritational potential.
Procedure
Melt the waxes add the colours and mix well. Run the entire mass
through a heated roller mill, remelt the ground material and pour
into molds with slow stirring.
In the above formulas the black colour can be replaced by
ultramariari blue, iron oxide brown (burnt Sienna) iron oxide yellow
(ochre) and other combinations of these pigments to yield almost
any desired shade.
Eye-Makeup Products • 233
Formula 14
Eye Creams
These are used on the eyelashes as well as around the eyes. Their
Eye-Makeup Products • 235.
purpose is to reduce dryness by lubricating the delicate, thin-skinned
eye-area.
Analysis
INTRODUCTION
ABY SKIN IS TENDER, delicate and therefore needs special care
B and protection for its maintenance in a healthy condition. The
probable damages are through infections, weather and poor hy-
gienic conditions. In order to keep these harmful influences away,
special baby care products were developed and are still being per-
fected. In the orient, the tender skin is mainly protected by applica-
tion of oil. These oils are mainly of vegetable origin like castor oil,
gingelly oil, groundnut oil etc. And in the occident oils like olive and
almond are blended with mineral oil. Then came the practice of
important antiseptic lotions and emulsions followed by creams. Pow-
ders and bath soaps have also found a place in the evolution of
baby toiletries. In the orient instead of bath soaps, oil bath with flour
of pulses scented with mild organic aromatic ingredients is in prac-
tice even today. The baby soaps are ofcourse most commonly used
in maintaining the tender skin soft and free from scaling. This chap-
ter deals with a few important baby toiletries and reserves the herbal
preparations for volume II.
Recent advances in baby toiletries include baby massage oils,
baby shampoos, baby soaps etc.
Baby Toiletries/Products • 237
Baby Toiletries
Baby toiletries include powder, oil, lotion, cream, soap, shampoo,
cotton swabs, soft wash clothes and brushes.
The skin of the child is thinner, less cornified and less hairy then
adults. Chemical analysis shows a higher proportion of water and
extra cellular fluid minerals. There is a tendency toward peeling
and flaking of stratum during the first 3 weeks in newborn babies.
Baby Oils
During 7 to 10 days in the nursery, care of the diaper area varies,
tap water, sterile water, baby oil, or lotion being used for the re-
moval of facial soil. Skin folds are cleansed with water and applied
with oil, alcohol or left alone.
These preparations are based on light mineral oil and veg-
etable oils (peanut, sesame, olive, cotton seed). Some oils contain
3-hydroxy quinoline, chlorobutenol, hexachlorophene as the anti-
septic and an antioxidant.
Antiseptic baby oils are far less irritating than ammoniated mer-
cury hence they are being encouraged.
238 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Baby Lotions
The oily preparation by covering the skin with a continous impervi-
ous, multi molecular film might interfere with important functions
such as respiration and eliminating body toxins and thus predispose
among other things to miliana. So the use of lotions started. An oil
in water lotion appeared to be more effective and comfortable than
antiseptic oils.
Cationic Lotion
Another method for the skin care of the newborn and infant is the
use of mildy acidic, antiseptic, cationic lotions. These emulsions are
based on the use of quaternary ammonium and pyridinium com-
pounds in oil-in-water lotion stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers.
These lotions appeared to have a beneficial effect in decreasing
the rashes on the infant's skin.
Diaper Rash
The urinary and faecal excretions of the infant are a constant source
of irritation and contamination to the adjacent areas. The diaper,
fitting in close proximity to the skin, concentrates this liquid and
semi liquid material in a warm, moist, and airtight area when plastic
material is used. The stool and urine passed by the infant remain in
intimate contact with the skin until the diaper change. The least
serious reaction to wet diapers is laceration of the skin in its folds,
caused by moisture and fiction resulting in painful, reddened and
Baby ToiletrieslPraducts • 239
weeping areas scalded in appearance. This is known as intertrigo,
which further gives rise to a skin disorder.
The wet diaper is a medium for bacterial growth which may
produce enough ammonia from urea in the urine to cause dermati-
tis commonly known as diaper rash. It is characterized by redden-
ing of the whole diaper area.
Other contributory factors in the development of diaper rash
include the use of improperly laundered diapers which are rough
and coarse alkaline soap or detergent residues remaining in poorly
rinsed diapers and antiseptic solutions used to rinse diapers. Occa-
sionally diaper rash and perianal dermatitis are caused by faulty
diets and gastrointestinal disorder.
It was proved that ammonia was the result of the presence of
faecal bacteria, which liberates ammonia from the urea in the urine.
CO(NH2)2+2H2O -* (NH)2CO3 -, 2NH 3 + H20+CO2
Brown and co-workers stated that it is primarily due to other
ammonia producing pathogenic organisms such as B.Proteus,
pseudomonas pyocanea and staphylococous aureus.
It would be ideal to change the diaper immediately after it becomes
wet. The diaper left wet on this region for some period of time will give
ample opportunity for formation of ammonia.
This severe skin irritations can be eliminated by treatment of the
diaper itself and by the procedures used in cleaning and care of the
diaper area. Cookers found that diapers treated with 1: 400 dilution
of mercuric chloride in a final rinse showed a bacteriostatic action
while wet with urine, preventing the growth of urea-splitting B-
ammoniagenes. Further, to inhibit the urea splitting organisms cat-
ionic quaternary ammonium salts were used. -
Ex. p-diisobutyl cresoxy ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl ammo-
nium chloride monohydrate (Hyamine 10-X)
with the urea splitting organisms and effectively inhibits their del-
eterious action. These authors stated that a water-repellent oint-
ment superimposed between the diaper and the skin obviously de-
feats the purpose of treating the diaper and therefore a water mis-
cible ointment containing the antiseptic is indicated.
Ex. Water miscible ointment containing p-diisobutyl cresoxy
ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride monohydrate.
The cleaning procedure used in the care of the diaper area in-
clude soap and water, detergent emulsions, mineral and vegetable
oils, antiseptic mineral oil lotions, and cationic lotions; occasionally
oils, lotions, and creams are used as emollients following the use of
soaps and synthetic detergents.
Baby Oils
The most convenient method of cleaning the diaper area is by the
use of light mineral oil and lotions followed by dusting with talcum
powder. The oil is applied to all parts of soiled area and removed
with absorbent cotton. A residual film or oil remains in the cervices
and on the skin providing an emollient hydrophobic barrier against
urine as well as preventing friction and chafing by serving as lubri-
cant between the skin surface. Later on, an opinion was expressed
that oils coat the skin and seal off the glands which may precipitate
miliana. So the lotions came into the picture.
Baby Lotions
The increasingly popular cleaning products probably at the expense
of baby oils are antiseptic nonionic, anionic and cationic lotions.
The oil-in-water lotions have the advantage over the oils in provid-
ing a source of water for the water soluble soil.
Ex. oil-in-water-lotion containing mineral oil, lanolin and 1%
hexachlorophene as antiseptic measure against diaper rash.
Examples for anionic oil-in-water lotions are silicon oil, the non-
irritant keratolytic and the relatively nonsensitizing bactericidal action
of the hexachlorophene and the emollient oils. Cationic oil-in-water
lotions include p-diisobutyl cresoxy ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl am-
monium chloride monohydrate and ethyl pyridinium chloride.
Baby Toiletries/Products • 241
Baby lotions have been formulated to prevent and cure diaper
rash, check diaper odour, soften and hydrate the skin and provide
an emollent lubricating oily film in the skin folds to prevent friction
and subsequent chafing. This is achieved essentially with antisep-
tics, mineral oil, lanolin nonionic and cationic emulsifiers and possi-
bly cholesterol. This oil-wax component is applied to the skin as
the dispersed phase initially but after evaporation of the water it
coalesces to form a continuous hydrophobic oil film.
Baby Powders
This is one of the most useful product in the list of baby toiletries
and unanimously recommended by all pediatricians. The excellent
slip characteristics of a cosmetic grade of platelet talc serves as a
lubricant where skin surfaces are in apposition, asinJhe groin, be-
tween the buttocks, in the neck and in the axillae. Jntertrigo, the
redness and macreratium that tend to occur where cutaneous sur-
faces are in apposition is very common in infants, especially in the
diaper area. So the powder is carefully applied to the skin folds. It
also helps to accelerate evaporation of perspiration (during hot
months) acts as a water repellent and serves as a lubricant to pre-
vent chafing.
Boric acid has been used as an antiseptic and buffer in baby
powders. Later on scientists like Brooke & Boggs stated that the
therapeutic value of boric acid is doubtful and its antiseptic quality
minimal. Johnstone and co-workers emphasised that boric acid is
added to talcum powder because it is one of the most practical
buffering agents for this purpose and not as an antiseptic. 5% boric
acid in talc was practically unabsorbed through the intact skin of
infants even if erythema were present. They pointed out that boric
acid when mixed with talc and subsequently wetted yielded much
higher degree of dissociation than boric acid in solution, due to the
formation of calcium, and magnesium borate. In 1954 Food and
Drug Administration made a study of borated powders and con-
fined preparations with boric acid to 5% concentration which is
what is used in baby talc in the market.
Another raw material used in baby powders is corn starch in
place of talc. Its supporters claim that it does not dust as freely as
242 • Textbook of Cosmetics
talc and acts as an adsorbent for moisure and is beneficial to the
baby's skin.
Ex. 1:1800 methyl benzethonium chloride in corn starch as a
preventive measure against diaper rash and intertrigo they found
that cationic-corn starch powder was more effective in curing dia-
per rash and intertrigo.
Baby Creams
These generally have a higher ratio of oil-wax/water phase than
the lotions and hence provide a great degree of emollience and
lubrication per unit weight of product. These are used after the
baby's daily bath to prevent chafing of those skin surfaces which
are in apposition and for their emollient effect to soften, relieve and
prevent chapping of the skin exposed to cold climates and low
humidity.
These generally contain zinc oxide, antiseptics, fungicides, and
antibiotics, vitamins, cod liver oil, polyunsaturated fatty acids orglyc-
erides, antipruritics, anesthetics, sun screen or insect repellents.
The antiseptics currently used in baby creams and ointments in-
clude hexachlorophene and cationics, in the same concentrations
as used in lotions.
23 4 5
Mineral oil, light 98.9% 73.85% 49.4% 39.4% 88.9%
Vegetable oil - 25.00 - - -
Lanolin - - 5.0 - -
Isopropyl myristate - - 19.5 9.5 7.0
Lantrol - - 25.0 50.0 -
Lanogene - - - - 3.0
Hexachlorophene 1.0 1.0 1 1.0 1.0 1.0
Antioxidant - 0.05 - - -
Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 01
244 • Textbook of Cosmetics
6 7 8 9 JO
Mineral oil, light 79.85% 87.85% 93.9% 93.9% 58.9%
Isopropylan No.50 20.00 - - - -
Lanosol — 12.GO - - -
Acetulan - - 5.0 - -
Modulan — - - 5.0 -
Myvacet Type 9-40 — — - - 30.0
Lanolin - - - - 10.0
Hexachlorophene - - 1.0 1.0 1.0
Chlorothymol 0.05 0.05 - - -
Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
A popular product for cleaning the diaper area and for applying an
emollient material to the skin is in the form of a lotion or emulsion.
These lotions may be formulated with anionic, nonionic or cationic
emulsifiers, as well as with nonionic-anionic and nonionic-cationic
combination. The emollient antiseptics and other additives may be
included.
Part A
II 12
Lanolin 1.00% -
Cetyl alcohol 1.00-
Arlacel 80 2.10 -
Tween 80 4.90 -
Velvaril silicone fluid 1000 5.00 -
Arlacel 83 — 2.00%
Atlas G-1425 - 4.50
Bees wax - 2.00
Petrolatum - 7.50
Mineral oil, light 35.00 35.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Baby Toiletries/Products • 245
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Water 50,60 48.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Part A
13 14 IS
Cetyl alcohol 0.20% 0.52% -
Tween 60 050 - -
Stearic acid 1.00 0.94 -
Bees wax 2. - -
Arlacel 60 5.00 - -.
Lantrol 10.00 - -
Isopropyl palmitate 10.00 - -
Oleic acid - - 3.00%
Stearyl alcohol - 894 -
Lanolin - 1.04 1.00
TeginP - - 650
Mineral oil light 10.00 26.00 24.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 - 0.15
Butyl paraben - 0.01 -
Part B
13 14 iS
Methyl paraben 015 0.09 0.15
Glycerol 5.00 - -
Triethanolamine 0.40 0.52 1.50
Borax 0.10 - -
Sodium alginate - 0.36 -
Water 55.25 69.33 63.45
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25
246 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Part A
16 17
Stearic acid 2.00% 2.5% 2.5%
Isopropyl palmitate 2.00 -
Lanolin 5.00 - 2.00
- Beeswax 8.00 -
Polyglycol 400 monostearate 10.00 -
Clyceryl monostearate pure - 2.00
Amerchol L-I01 - 9.00
Oleic acid 1.50
- Hexachlorophene 1.00
Mineral oil light 15.00 4.50 25.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Propylene glycol 5.00 4.50
Glycerol 3.50
Triethanolamine 1.00 1.00 1.30
Water 51.45 75.95 62.65
0.25 0.25 0.25
Part A
19 20 21
etyl alcohol 0.50% 0.50% -
Glyceryl monostearaLe (pure) 1,00 .1.00 -
Isopropyl palmitate - 3.0 - -
Lanolin '00 1.00 2.00%
Mineral oil light 5.00 - 2.00
Amerchol L-10 - 8.00 -
Tegin - - 6.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Baby Toiletries/Products • 247
Part -
Glycerol 3.00 3.00 -
Sorbitol - - 2.00
Lactic acid 0.10 0.10 -
Emcel E-60 0.25 - -
Hyarnine - 0.15 015
Water 85.90 86.00 87.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10
Part A
22 23
Lanolin 300% -
Atlas G-1702 5.00 -
Atlas (3-1726 5.00 -
Bees wax 5.00 5.00%
Arlacel 60 3.00
Tween 60 4.00
Hydrogenated vegetable oil 25.00 17.50
Mineral oil, light 20.00 26.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Antixodant 0.05 0.05
Part B
24 25
Lanolin 1.00% -
Isopropyl myristate 4.30 -
Polyglycol 1000 monostcratc 6.00 -
Stearic acid 7.20 -
Bees wax — 3.00%
Spermaceti - 3.00
Glyceiyl monostearate, pure 4.50 12.00
Mineral oil light - 30.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Propylene glycol 2.50 -
Glycerol - 8.00
Water 74.10 43.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Pad B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Sorbitol 10.00 2,50
Water 50.60 30,10
Perfume 0.10 0.10
28 29 30
Glyceryl monostearate (pure) 5.00% - 10.00%
Petrolatum 5.00 - 10.00
Mineral oil tight 15.00 25.00% 10.00
Microcrystalline wax (175°F) 10.00 5.00 -
Amerchol L 101 15.00 10.00 -
Lanolin — 10.00 -
Bees wax - - 5.00
Lanolin absorption base - - 25.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Part B
31 32 33 34 35 36
Talc 99.75% 97.25% 97.25% 92.25% 90.25% 96.75%
Lithium stearate -..- 2.50 - 2.50 2.50 -
Oliveoil - - 2.50 - - -
Kaolin - - - 5.00 5.00 -
Zinc oxide - - - - 2.00 3.00
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
252 • Textbook of Cosmetics
39 40 41
Corn starch 99.70% - - - -
Rice starch - 99.70% - - -
Dry no - - 99.70% 50.00% -
Talc - - - 49.70 84.75%
Calcium undecylenate - - - - 15.00.
Hyamine tO. X 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 -
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0,25 0.25
DEFINITION OF A SHAMPOO
Shampoos are available in many types and forms and are classified
according to their physical appearance, their special ingredients or
properties. These forms are: liquid clear shampoo, liquid creams or
cream lotion shampoos, cream paste shampoos, egg shampoos
herbal shampoos, dry shampoos, liquid dry shampoos, colour sham-
poos, and aerosol shampoos. In addition to these 1) medicated
254 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Liquid Shampoo
When a shampoo is based upon soap, it is frequently a potassium
salt, when based on a synthetic, it is often a triethanolamine salt.
Liquid shampoos are also made from sulfonated oils and are fre-
quently promoted as oil shampoo or hot oil shampoos. These for-
mulations may contain mineral oil which does not rinse out easily
and thereby remains as a dressing on the hair. Liquid shampoo's
popularity lies in its easy application, excellent foaming and easy
rinsing.
Water 81%
Sodium lauryl sulfate (C 10 to C1) -
Sodium stearate -
Lanolin -
Calcium alginate 2
Sodium citrate 1
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate 10
Glycerol 5
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15
Perfume 0.85
Egg Shampoo
Originally egg shampoos were considered to be exclusively com-
posed of egg. There has been a slight change in the concept of egg
shampoo now wherein the shampoo is based upon a soap or syn-
thetic detergent to which egg powder is added. These shampoos
were recommended in hard water areas and for extremely dry
hair. It is said to leave the hair with improved luster.
1-5% of emulsified or dispersed egg has a stabilizing action on
the foam (improves the dirt dispersing action of the soap or syn-
256 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Herbal Shampoo
These products have recently gained wide popularity although a
few years back they enjoyed a very limited demand. These prod-
ucts had a market in hardwater areas. They are based on a whole
class of saponins that are widely available in nature.
Commercially saponin is usually extracted with water and alco-
hol form its source. Such preparations are usually meant to cleanse
the scalp and to reduce scaliness. They are usually compounded
with rosemary and celandine
RAW MATERIALS
Since shampoo formulations comprise of soap and synthetic deter-
gents, their respective uses, difference and advantages would make
Shampoos • 257
an interesting review. Soaps are generally defined as salts of fatty
acids. They were originally obtained by saponification of natural,
animal or vegetable fats and oils with alkali. Of late the fats or oils
are sulfonated or accurately sulfated without splitting the glyceride.
Strictly speaking these sulfated oils are synthetic detergents.
Triethanolaniine 5.4%
Oleic acid 5
Coconut fatty acids 4
Propylene glycol 5
Versene 100 0.4
Water 80.2
RSO3Na
RSO3Na
C 1 2H
Formula
Water 14%
Sulfated castor oil 75% 59.5
Sulfated olive oil 75% 19.5
Mineral oil light 3.0
Glycerol 3.5
Perfume 0.5
NONIONICS
The nonionic detergents offer a promising range of shampoos al-
though their low yield of foam has caused limited usage. The
nonionics are very water soluble or water dispersible due to the
chain, (OCH 2 CH2) , obtained by reacting ethylene oxide with a
compound having an active hydrogen. Some examples of nonionics
are Triton X-100, Igepal. Myrj, and the Pluronics.
SHAMPOO ADDITIVES
CLARIFYING AGENTS
Clear shampoos share an equal amount of popularity as opaque
shampoos. Butyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, terpineol,
pine oil, diettiylene glycol, and diethyl carbitol are a clarifying agents
to name a few. A sequestering agent, ethylene diamine tetra acetic
acid (EDTA) is frequently used as a clarifying agent.
FINISHING AGENTS
SEQUESTERING AGENTS
CONDITIONING AGENTS
Finishing and conditioning agents are closely connected. Humec-
tants are usually used as conditio!ers. They bring moisture to the
hair and reduce brittleness. Glycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol and
urea help to retain moisture and delay its evaporation. The carbo
waxes and their stearates provide slip and body to the hair and the
fatty acid amides slip and smoothness.
THICKENING AGENTS
Natural gums such as tragacanth gum, acacia and locust been gum
were replaced by synthetic gum such as hydroxy methyl cellulose,
methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose. But they too leave
an undesired deposit on the hair. The alginates and the carrageenates
too have had restricted use.
However polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone are more
widely used.
Diethanolamide, lactic acid or the glycol or glycol stearates are
commonly used without the fear of formation of a film on the hair.
FOAM BUILDERS
Diethanolamide of lauric acid and dodecyl benzene sulfonate are
good foam builders.
PRESERVATIVES
The following preservatives are preferred forpreservation of sham-
poos.
264 • Textbook of Cosmetics
ANTIBACTERIALS
Anti bacterials, for preventing bacterial skin diseases are generally
added in soap type shampoos with the addition of chlorinated phe-
nol like hexachlorphene or bithionol. Usually 2% of such a chemi-
cal is used.
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS
1. Foam and foam stability
2. Detergency and cleansing action
3. Surface and interfacial tensions
4. Wetting action
5. Effect in hard water
6. Conditioning action
7. Luster and softness of hair
8. Relative effectiveness
9. Irritation to eyes
10. Fragrance
II. pH
12. Soap or synthetic detergent content
13. Free salt and ash content
14. 'Viscosity
15. Cost and selling price
PH OF SHAMPOO
As has been pointed out by Harris, it may be difficult to obtain
accurate pH reading, even with electrodes. The electrodes must
be washed clean, and be free from residual traces of alkali or acid
to ensure accurate readings. In any event, it is possible to prepare
a shampoo at almost any pH, but there is no assurance that the pH
will not drift on standing. Certainly there is no evidence that any
specific range of pH gives the best shampoo. Soaps in general are
Shampoos • 265
more effective at a pH of 9.0 to 10.0, and synthetics may be effec-
tive at pH of 60 to 9.0. It is probably true that the higher the pH,
the lower the cost per shampoo. Shampoo adjusted to the isoelectic
point of hair, viz., between 4.0 and 5.0 will cause better manageability.
ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
There has also been a great deal of interest in a dandruff prevent-
ing shampoo. (Abott Laboratories has placed on the market a thera-
peutic shampoo which was developed based on selenium sulfide).
This product, Selson, which is sold only on medical prescription, has
been enjoying growing acceptance. It is said to relieve severe
itching and dandruff. The following formulas are typical examples
of shampoos containing the selenium and a quaternary antiseptic.
However, there are undesirable side effects like graying and loss of
hair.
l'ween 80 4% -
Cetyl benzyl di methyl ammonium bromide 12 -
Perfume q.s 0.5%
Water 84 q.s tOO
Arlacel SO - 13
Glyceryt morioricinolcate -
Bentonite - 4
Selenium sulfide-bentonite, 1:1 - 5
Citric acid - 0.4
Monosodium phosphate - 2
FBFItiUII 2
Sodium iattij'i sulfate (90% active) 34.b%
Sodium dodecyI b&n±ene sulfohate 21.0
E'thin S'lated álkylphebOl 21.0
MtSid&haholaihide Of steaiic acid 2 tb
Pthuthe 1.6
bye (b & C Grééh No.5; 0.4% solution) 1.4
oItIiuia
MdeihahOlaiiiine kuryl ether sulfate 12% or parts
T`riefhahbIAffiiAe W-acyl sarcosinate IS
Alkyl diffiethylammonium acetate 3.0
I)ik6rilAry t*iktisnhiér O1'Vinyl iyiit1idone
blaik.4 t6*er *mlnbálkyl actyWe 1125
lbo
011i
BEER SHAMPOO
Beer Concentrate
This is derived from a by-product of beer fraction produced in the
conventional beer manufacturing procedure. The top layer clear
beer is decanted and sent for bottling (after fermentation and addi-
tion of tannins). The bottom liquid sludge layer, often discarded in
the past, is subject to seperation procedure whereby a liquid layer
and a solid layer are produced. The liquid layer is further separated
from the solid layer and then concentrated by evaporation of the
liquid to produce a beer concentrate.
Beer Shampoo
Water 71.92%
Methyl paraben 0.25
Propyl paraben 0.05
Sodium lauryl sulphate, 60% (Standapol CS) 3,00
Shampoos • 269
Sodium polyoxyeLhylene (I)
laury] ether sulfate 0.10
Disodiuni EUTA, dihydrate 0.05
Citric acid anhydrous 0.18
Methyl diethyl polyoxypropylene (8)
Ammonium chloride WE
Preserved hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose
mucilage (3.5%) 5,00
Laurie myristic (70: 30) diethanolamide 5.00
Perfume 0.30
Beer concentrate, 50% 12,00
Formaldehyde solution, 37% 0.15
Conditioning Shampoo
A Ammonium lauryl sulfate 22,5%
Cocoamidopropyl betaine S
Lauramide DEA 2
Panthenol 0.!
Perfume 0.!
B Water 69.9
Crotein BTA 0.!
Methylparabcn 0.1
Formaldehyde USP 0.!
FD&C Blue No. 1,1% 0.1
Heat A to 50°C to dissolve lauramide. Add B.
Baby Shampoo
Tearless surfactant 48.0%
Na laureth - 2 surfactant 2.0
Propylent glycol 0.1
Water 48.0
Lauramide IDEA 2.0
Formaldehyde USP 0.1
100.2
270 • Textbook of Cosmetics
We is eW&sttfronthM of the6rbptfliofl.
272 • Textbook of Cosmetics
BATH SALTS
There are basically two types of bath salts: one which gives per-
fume and colour to the bath and the other which helps soften hard
water and make cleansing easier apart from possessing the two
qualities of the former.
The first type is based on rock salt crystals, which are coloured
and perfumed. This salt is used because of its inert nature and is
coloured (permitted) and perfumed rather easily. It does not soften
water or help in cleansing either and the crystals are slow in dis-
solving in the water. Epsom or Glaubers salts may also be used in
such preparations.
METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
Formulas
Trisodium phosphate 50 to 49% 50 to 49% -
Sodium sesquicarbonate 49.5 to 49 - 80 to 90%
Rock salt or sodium chloride - 49.5 to 49 -
Borax, powdered - - 18(08
Perfume 0.5 to 2 0.5 to 2 2
Colour q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
The same methods described for the rock salt crystals, can be used
except for first mixing uniformly two or more dry ingredients be-
fore the perfume and colour are added; otherwise the finished prod-
uct might not be uniform in appearance.
Other phosphates suggested as substitutes for trisodium phos-
phate and would serve as better water softening as well as seques-
tering agents are sodium hexametaphosphate, tetra sodium pyro-
phosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate and others; only here the dis-
advantage being their high cost.
Effervescent bath salts are categorized as fancy products rather
than cosmetic. They are prepared with sodium carbonate and a
crystalline acid. Citric and tartaric being the most commonly used.
METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
The carbonate and the acid are mixed and perfumed, coloured welled
with alcohol and granulated by passing through a screen of a suit-
able mesh. The wet granules are then put in trays and the trays into
a steam oven, so as to dry them with a small quantity of live steam.
This results in a reaction on the surface with the formation of a
neutral salt that acts as a protective coating against moisture in the
air. Isopropyl alcohol of 99% strength is used for granulating be-
cause of its low water content and alcohol soluble gum binders but
only in very small quantities.
274 • Toxibook of Cosmeths
The granules are ready for packing either as they are or in the
form of one-bath tablets.
Phosphates can be included in the formula but one has to bear in
mind the fact that large quantities of it would weaken the efferves-
cence. Powdered detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate can be added
but would put the preparation into a different category of bath prepa-
rations namely bubble bath preparations.
This is a formula of an effervescent bath preparation.
Formula 4
Sodium bicarbonate 45.0%
Tartaric acid 37.5
Sodium hexametaphosphase 10.0
Carboxymethyl cellulose 2.0
Sodium lauryl sulfate 5.0
Perfume 0,5
Procedure
Combine the dry ingredients in powdered form and mix until uni-
form. Dissolve the perfume in enough isopropyl alcohol to moisten
the batch and add to the granulate and sieve through screen, and
dry. The finished product is packed in airtight containers or pressed
into tablets, preferably about 1 1/4 in. in diameter and ¼ in. thick,
which are placed in the airtight containers.
BATH OILS
Bath oils too like bath salts are classified into two main types: one
the oily type and the other either soluble or emulsifiable with water.
The first type is perhaps less popular. The product revolves around
say, castor oil, alcohol for viscosity adjustments, perfume oil (about
3%) and an oil soluble colour. A small quantity of this oil is poured
into the tub. The perfume oil is absorbed by the water and the other
oil floats on the water surface as a thin film. This film is "absorbed"
on the body while bathing.
Bath Preparations • 275
Formula 5
Formula 6
METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
The manufacture of this type of bath oils is easy. The sulfated oil or
the detergent is placed in a tank. The perfume and the solubilizing
276 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula
7 8
Castor oil, sulfated 97% 50%
Ethyl alcohol - 10 to
Solubilizer - 7
Perfume 3 3
Colour q.s q.s
Water - 30 to 40
A bath oil based on a sulfated detergent and non foaming type is
shown in the formula below.
Formula 9
BUBBLE BATH
Bubble bath are easily the most popular among the bath prepara-
tions.
Bath Preparations • 277
10 11 12
Sodium lauryl sulfate 30% - -
Sodium bury! sulfoacetate - 20% 60%
Sodium haxametaphosphate 5 - -
Sodium carboxymeLhyl cellulose, low visc 2 - -
Sodium chloride, fine granular 60 47 -
Alkyl benzene sodium sulfonate - 30 -
Sodium tripolyphosphate - - 38
Perfume 3 3 2
Procedure
Mix the dry ingredients until uniform, then add the perfume, and
mix again until unifopnly distributed. If difficulty is experienced with
nonuniformity of odour, the perfume should first be dissolved in a
little alcohol.
Generally the powdered bubble bath preparations are put in
tablet form (rather easily at low humidity). A good bubble bath
soap cake is obtained by way of compression of sodium lauryl
sulfoacetate alone or in a mixture with boric acid, talc, starch and
other materials.
But the liquid bubble bath is the most popular product. Earlier it
was based on liquid soap such as potash and triethanolamine soaps
of coconut oil, phosphate and other sequestering agents like the
sodium phosphate, sodium hexametaphosphate, tetra sodium pyro-
phosphate, and sodium tripolyphosphate were added to keep in-
soluble soaps from anti foaming activity in the bath. The tetrasodium
salt of ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid is excellent in preventing
the killing of foam by magnesium and calcium ions.
More modern bubble baths are based on synthetic surfactants
which give good foam whether they are good detergents or not.
Because by adding a good detergent both the qualities can be ob-
tained. A majority of the good foamers also posses good detergent
activity resulting in a good liquid bubble bath.
Bath Preparations • 279
The ingredients of a bubble bath need to be selected in such a
way that they remain as clear solutions over a wide range of tem-
perature.
Formulas 13 to 18 provide excellent bubble bath preparations.
13 14 IS 16 17 IS
Fatty acid amine condensate 40% 30% 20% -
Alkyl sulfonate - 15 - - - -
Sodium lauryl sulfate - - 20 30% - -
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate
Alkyl aryl polyethyl ether ————-07%
Diethyl ester of sodium succinic acid ————-06
Ethyl alcohol 10
Water 57 52 57 67 67 q.s 100
Perfume 03 03 03 03 03 03
BATH POWDERS
Bath powders of the past were based on corn and rice starch and
boric acid. But both powders of the present constitute mainly any
where between 60% - 90% of talc. Many other ingredients in smaller
quantities are used of give it the desired properties.
For instance these are:
Ingredients Purpose
Chalk for bulk and density
Zinc oxide for bulk and density
Magnesium carbonate 5% to adsorb perfume and hold it
Kaolin to help powder to hold on to the body
Titanium dioxide 1-2% to give some opacity to talc
Zinc slearate to give desired slip to the product
280 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Colour
Normally earth oxide colours are used. For example a mixture of
cosmetic grade iron oxide (light pink color) and light tanochre will
produce a flesh coloured tint. This is added as an extender after all
other ingredients are uniformly mixed. The extender should consist
of 25% of dry colour and 75% talc uniformly mixed and then
micropulverized.
19 20 21 22
Talc 80% 70% 90% 60%
Magnesium carbonate 05 05 04 05
Kaolin 05 07 - -
Titanium dioxide 02 - - 02
Zinc stearate 07 04 05 10
Zinc oxide - 03 - 12
Chalk, heavy - ID - 10
Perfume 01 01 01 0]
Colour and extender q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Liquid
Suspension Pigment suspen- Cheap Lacks cosmetic
ded in water elegance; may
alcohol glycerol require shaking
and other liquids before use
Emulsion Pigments Relatively cheap Emulsion may
suspended in a blends easily separate; limited
fluid emulsion choice of suitable
pigments
Cream
Anhydrous cream Pigmented Stable, easy May be greasy, may
ointment application exude oil on stand-
ing and during chan-
ges of temperature
Water-containing Pigmented cream Pleasing Limited shelf life
appearance, easy through loss of
blending water
Solid
Waxes and oils Similar to lipstick Stable, easy to Too much like
apply lipstick
282 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Dry compact Pigmented powder Long-tasting, Dusty, may crack
compressed with applies with and crumble
the help of a puff matte finish
binder
LIQUID ROUGE
Suspension Type
The dye solution one can say was the precursor of rouge. But the
tendency of dye solution to stain the skin and the difficulty in appli-
cation lead the chemist to focus on pigmented solutions as simple
means of applying a touch of red to the cheek. Such suspensions in
their simplest forms settle rather quickly and need a thorough shak-
ing before use. In order to retard this settling of the pigments and
inert solids and to disperse, various suspending agents such as car-
boxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol
have been selected to act as colloids around the solid particles.
Another alternative to prevent the inert and white particles from
settling is to have a voluminous precipitate floating in the water
phase. This can be achieved by grinding zinc stearate into the wa-
ter phase to yield a product, which gives the appearance of a lotion
and provides a matte finish on application.
A widely followed way of doing this is by adding glyceryl or
propylene glycol monostearates at high temperatures to the aque-
ous pigment suspension. The monostearate being dispersible in hot
water, innumerable microscopic stearates start cooling down which
in turn act as cushions to the heavier pigment particles.
Formulas 1-3 represent rouge solutions and formulas 4-6 de-
scribe rouge suspensions.
Carmine NF 2.0% - -
Glycerol 5.0 - -
Water 889 89.4% -
D&C Red no.28 4 0.5 6%
Rouge • 283
4 5 6
Propylene glycol 3.0% - -
Polyvinyl alcohol 2%solri 2.5 - --
Sorbitol hexaacetatc,2% soln 2.5 - -
Titanium dioxide 2.0 - -
Chalk 4,8 - -
Zinc stearate 2.4 17.0% -
Emulsion Type
Formula 8
Procedure
Heat the mineral oil and oleic acid to 60°C. Heat the water and
triethanolamine to 60°C. Pregrind the dry ingredients and either
roller-mill the latter into the oil phase, which is then converted into
the oil emulsion or add the water phase to the oil phase, and add the
preground dry ingredients to hot finished emulsion, stir while cool-
ing, and perfume at 45°C.
The use of nonionics as emulsifying agents allows larger choice
of colours but here careful balancing of ingredients is necessary to
insure a long shelf life. Form 9 is one such example.
Procedure
Heat Part Ito 85°C. Heat Part 2 also to 85°C. Add premixed Part
3 to Part 2 with stirring. Add Part I with stirring and remove from
heat. Add Part 4 with stirring at 45°C.
Cream Rouge
Cream rouge enjoys preference over other forms of rouge because
of its ease of application, soft texture, perfect appearance, and sat-
isfactory blending with powder.
Anhydrous Creams
Them are two types of anhydrous rouge creams. One based on
mineral oil and waxes which is the older version and the newer one
which is based on lower alkyl fatty acid esters and carnauba wax
to harden it. They present good shelf life with acceptable cosmetic
properties. The first type is cheap but the key lies in the selection of
raw materials so that it remains stable at temperatures above 40°C.
286 • Textbook of Cosmetics
The base materials used not only render easy application but also
insure heat stability. This type of rouge gives a greasy feeling un-
less sparingly used.
The second which is all oil-and-wax type is based upon the fact
that carnauba wax, in the presence of talc, chalk, kaolin, and pig-
ments stiffens isopropyl palmitate and other esters to the desired
consistency. The esters being oily liquids with low viscosity yield
very pleasing thin films on the skin. This mixture of carnauba wax
and the esters, which is stiff and solid when direct pressure is ap-
plied, becomes fluid when rubbed gently with a circular motion.
Moreover, a well-made mixture of this type of cream rouge can
withstand temperatures above 50°C.
However, both types of creams tend to exude oil in tiny droplets
when subjected to abrupt temperatures changes. This situation can
be averted with the addition of beeswax, ozokerite, or lanolin or
even a small amount of mineral oil. Infact any material acting as a
third solvent to reduce brittleness also reduces sweating of the rouge.
The stability feel of the anhydrous cream rouges has a lot to do
with pouring temperatures and dooling rates. Flaming improves the
appearance of the surface, which is done after the cream has cooled
down and set. If this is not observed the pigment settles slightly
leaving a mottled surface deficient in pigment.
Cream rouges need to be perfumed with great care since they
tend to develop an odd odour and since they are used sparingly the
perfume must be retained for a long period.
Some examples of anhydrous cream rouge formulas are given
below.
Formula 10
Petrolatum 76%
Mineral oil 8
Lanolin 4
Zinc oxide S
Pigments 7
Perfume q.s
Rouge • 287
Formula 11
Carnauba 6%
Ozokerite to
Mineral oil 24
Isopropyl palmitate 27
Talc 10
Titanium dioxide 20
Colour 3
Perfume q.s.
EMULSIFIED CREAMS
One major draw back of anhydrous cream rouge is its greasiness.
To overcome this problem, cream rouges that are based on pig-
mented emulsions have been formulated. Almost all types of cream
can be adapted as rouge bases. A well formulated emulsified rouge
cream: (a) is easy for application, (b) has minimum drag (c) is
non-greasy (d) is cooling, (e) has a pleasant texture and presents
a subtle attraction to many women. A poorly formulated cream on
the other hand may have mottled effect, may feel spongy because
of occluded air, have a lard like appearance due to poor emulsifica-
tion or bad choice of ingredients. Insufficient or unsuitable humec-
tants may cause the cream to dry up and loose its customer appeal.
Some examples of emulsified cream rouge:
Procedure
Follow the same directions as for Formula 12, except that oil phase
consists of Arlacel 83, lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum; water
phase consists of sorbitol syrup and water.
Formula 15
Glyceryl monostearate (self-emulsifying) 11.9%
Spermaceti 4.5
Glycerol 4.5
Water 71.0
Colour 8.0
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate 0.1
Perfume q.s.
SOLID ROUGES
Solid Oil and Wax Rouges
The idea of having rouges in the form and composition similar to
lipsticks has been cropping up from time to time. Actually some
women do use their lipsticks as substitutes for rouges. Commer-
cially it has not been offered because of the confusion it may cre-
ate in the customer's mind.
As a matter of fact any lipstick of preferably creamy texture
and free of halogenated fluorescence which does not permit deli-
cate blending of rouge especially on an already creamed face would
be acceptable. A careless application of this form of rouge may
however result in the "apple cheek" variety.
A simple example of an oil and wax rouge base is given below.
Formula 16
Castor oil 77.4%
Candelilla wax 9.9
Carnauba wax 2.7
Colour 10.0
Perfume q.s.
290 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Another tested solid oil and wax rouge formulation using isopro-
pyl esters and camauba wax and sufficient colour is given below.
Formula 17
COMPACT ROUGES
Compact rouge is the most popular form of rouge and is essentially
a pigmented powder compressed to a firm cake with the help of a
binder. However, it not only requires a sound technical know how
but also specialized equipment.
The earlier version of rouge cake was made by pouring wet
powder containing gypsum into moulds where the rouge set like
plaster of Paris. They were hard and gritty compared to the mod-
em cakes. These cakes, soft and smooth and can be produced
cheaply in large quantities.
A good dry compact rouge exhibits the following characteris-
tics.
I. Smooth texture.
2. Perfect distribution of colour.
3. Good covering power.
4. Very small particle size.
5. Perfect blending.
6. Ease of application.
7. Good adhesion.
8. Ease of removal without trace or residue.
In addition the cake should not flake, crumble, crack, or be too
hard.
Rouge • 291
Talc
Should possess slip without greasiness; it should be free of "Spar-
klers", have uniform small particle size. It is the main ingredient for
an easy application. If the content in rouge is too high it gives a thin
glassy appearance. The talc here may not be pure white since the
product is strongly pigmented.
Kaolin
Kaolin is soft and opaque on application. The colloidally refined
form of kaolin can be used for bulking and to adjust the overall
fluffiness of the composition. It has bonding properties because of
its capacity to absorb and retain certain amount of moisture. How-
ever, when used in a high percentage, it gives spots and streaks due
to its hygroscopicity. Kaolin causes many perfumes to deteriorate
and for this reason it has to be used cautiously.
Chalk
This material has no major role in the formulation of compact rouge
except in small quantities as a perfume carrier. It has a tendency to
make the compact brittle.
Magnesium Carbonate
It is added as a bulking agent and as a carrier of perfume. It has
292 • Textbook of Cosmetics
very little covering power and too much of it makes the compact
fragile.
Zinc Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
It has 4-5 times more hiding power than zinc oxide. It gives lively
shades however, with blue undertone.
Metal Stearates
Starch
Pigments
Water and oil soluble dyes are usually avoided. Colour lakes, to-
gether with organic toners, reduced toners and to a lesser extent
inorganic oxides, are the principle pigments used and they also pro-
vide a wide range in shade and brilliance.
Rouge • 293
Perfume
Preservatives
Binder
This type of binder is basically a gum solution and both natural and
synthetic gums are employed. Gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum
karaya, quince seed and Irish moss extracts are all natural ingredi-
ents. A combination of gum tragacanth and quince seed has been
used. The use of gum arabic needs caution because it may give the
cake a very hard consistency. Being natural products, it is difficult
to obtain material that is pure, uniform and low in bacteria and
mould count, although standardized grades are commercially avail-
able.
As a result of these problems, manufacturers resorted to syn-
thetic gums like methyl cellulose, carboxy methyl cellulose, polyvi-
294 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Emulsion Binder
Dry Binder -
Grinding
The main purpose of various manufacturing procedures is distribu-
tion of colours. The older process called the French or Continental
process is slow and elaborate. It yields excellent rouges with a
minimum of equipment. In this method , the lakes, toners and the
other pigments are first premixed in spiral ribbon or pony mixers.
Then it is converted into a dough like paste by adding water or the
binder solution. It is then placed in shallow trays either with or
without previous granulation, for drying in ovens. The resultant hard,
dry cakes are reground in hammer or ball mills. If this cycle of
wetting, drying and grinding is repeated, a soft and brilliant rouge is
obtained.
In the American process, colours are distributed by powerful
grinding equipment which includes hammer mills with air classifi-
ers, cyclone mills or attrition mills (refer to face powders chapter).
Another efficient method is provided by edge runner mills which
function on a principle similar to that of a pestle and a mortar. These
mills mix and grind simultaneously. However, it is necessary to lighten
the wheels to avoid squeezingthe soft stearates into lumps which
are difficult to disperse.
It is advisable to keep a check on the manufacturing procedure
from time to time because grinding equipment wears and becomes
less efficient; mills of the same type but of different capacities
need not necessarily show same efficiency and their characteris-
tics have to-be known. The addition of small quantities of oil or
296 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Shade Matching
For close matching, small amounts of dry powder have to be moist-
ened with water or binder, ground through a laboratory mill, moul-
ded, pressed and dried. This sample rouge is then compared with
the master shade. Necessary adjustments have to be made on the
dry powder. Further, it is advisable to prepare several concentra-
tion of blends to have freedom of adjustments.
Addition of Binder
It is important that the binder is evenly and completely distributed.
The binder is sprayed into the powder while it is being mixed. Rouge
powder being water repellent, and since most binders contain wa-
ter, it is customary to add a wetting agent to ensure uniform distri-
bution. Emulsion binder is preferred as it also acts as a wetting
agent and helps in the distribution of the finely divided oil phase.
Moulding
Moulding and pressing operations are involved in the manufacture
of tabletting type rouge. Normally before the compact rouge is
pressed into shallow pans, it has to be moulded. It is done either
manually or automatically either in single or multiple cavity moulds.
The most important aim of moulding is to fill each cavity with the
same amount of powder. However, it gives the compressed cake
only approximate uniformity since the weight depends on the con-
tent of air in the powder. Regulated devices are necessary for
moulding otherwise rouge compacts vary greatly in hardness and
ease in rub-off. The powder is (like a dome) usually moulded in
such a manner that a pronounced hump is created in the center,
which is dense and hard. If it is done with a level surface, the
centre of the pressed cake is soft.
Rouge • 297
Pressing
What the pressing operations should do theoretically is
1. Expel the air from the interstices between the powder par-
ticles.
2. Bring them into physical content with each other.
3. Weld the binder film between particles.
The die should leave a small and definite clearance between
itself and edge of the pan to allow passage to the expelled air.
Ideal pressing employs a fixed pressure cycle i.e., first com-
press gradually and continue till the optimum is reached; and disen-
gage slowly and smoothly after sustaining the pressure briefly at
the optimum. Foot-operated presses, air cylinders, and hydraulic
cylinders are all suitable.
Tabeletting machines mould and press automatically but are rather
expensive for the manufacture of rouge.
The_thin rubber dam can be slipped over the die in order to pre-
vent "lifting" of the compressed rouge. It does not work if rouge is
embossed. The die in this case has to be finely polished to avoid
"lifting".
It is preferable that the metal pans rest on resilient rubber cush-
ion while being pressed because they are never perfectly flat and
more over they should permanently be coated with tackly glue so
that there is good adhesion between rouge cake and the metal pan
even if the latter, somewhat bent during pressing springs back when
pressure is relieved.
The spring room in which the rouge is being moulded and pressed
should be air-conditioned for uniform temperature and relative hu-
midity. Further, it is advisable to maintain the correct moisture con-
tent of the powder during moulding and pressing..
After the formation of the moulds the rate of drying should be
uniformly slow to avoid a dry crust and an undesirable top cast.
An example of dry rouge powder is given below:
298 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula 18
Talc 48
Kaolin 16
Chalk 4
Magnesium carbonate 4
Zinc stearaLe 4
Titanium dioxide 12
Colour 12
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
EPILATORS
Epilants are hair pulling type in semisolid condition which are adhe-
sive to skin.
(A)Wax-Rosin compositions are designed for application in the
molten state to the hirsute area and allowed to solidify, so
that the hair becomes enmeshed in the plastic mass. After
keeping for 15-30 minutes removal of the waxy film from
the site uproots and removes the hair.
(B) Adhesive semisolid compositions which are permanently
stickly at room temperature and applied generally on a flex-
ible supporting material such as fabric. Removal of the
adhesive compositions by stripping removes the hair easily.
Rosin 69%
Bees wax 20
Burgundy pitch
Gum camphor
Oil of Bergamot
Oil of eucalyptus
Oil of skunk
The molten mass was poured into moulds to form sticks, which
were heated before being applied to the hairy area, on cooling the
solidified stick was removed quickly from the skin, thereby remov-
ing the embedded hair.
Later on this was improved and an attempt was made to even
restrict further growth of hair through improvised preparations.
After epilating by Rosin-wax mixture another mixture of lime-
water, hydrogen peroxide, and oil of turpentine, with colour and
perfume, was applied to the area in an attempt to restrict further
hair growth. Formulations were changed by including viscous plas-
ticizers like honey and non drying oils, such as mineral oil or olive oil
to make the composition: utilizablei.without preliminary heating.
Depilatories • 301
Replacement with glucose, molasses, or honey and with water in-
soluble fillers in a ratio of 2:1 respectively, was proposed in addition
to raw rubber in a volatile solvent.
The wax-rosin compositions were also supplied with a backing
material which formed a flexible mounting for the adhesive mix-
ture. Similarly adhesive compositions, containing zinc oxide, and
various ketones were patented in Western Countries. Encompass-
ing all the previous art, ready for application products were intro-
duced. For example a ready to use and instantly removable depila-
tory pad type for application to the body, was formulated. It com-
prised of a combination of a substantially impermeable base section
and a permanently coated stick mounted on the said base section.
Any hair, coming in contact with such a pad comes off easily from
the skin when removed without causing injury.
The advantage of such a system is that it can be handled/oper-
ated by even unskilled or trained persons. However, though it claims
no allergic reaction or discomfort it is not 100% true.
Later several brands of these mechanical hair-removing aids in
small cakes, canisters, kits, or tubes were available, but their popu-
larity has been largely superseded by the newer chemical depilators.
Formula 1'
Rosin . 42%
Beeswax 3%
Camauba wax 6%
Mineral oil 15%
Base q.s.
Formula 2
Rosin 50%
Beeswax 24%
Petrolatum 4
Benzocaine 2
Base q.s.
302 • Textbook of Cosmetics
Formula 3
Rosin 64%
Bees wax 8
Carnauba wax 24
Lin seed oil 4
Formula 4
Rosin 58%
Bees wax 22
Ceresin to
Base q.s.
CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES
The removal of superfluous, undesirable hair was revolutionized by
developing chemical agents either in paste or in cream formulary.
and they became popular in the evolution of variety of formula-
tions.
An ideal depilatory formulation would possess the following quali-
ties.
1. Should transform human hair into a soft plastic mass, eas
ily removed by wiping or rinsing.
2. Should be non toxic systemically and non irritating to the
skin even in the long run.
3. Should be easily applicable, economical to use, and stable
in the tube orjar.
4. Should be cosmetically elegant, odourless, or pleasantly per-
fumed, white or natural in colour, non injurious to the skin,
stainless on cloth.
However, hypothetically it sounds satisfactory but practically it
is not foolproof. The reason being, the proteinaceous nature of skin
and hair which is akin, and the treatment of hair with chemicals will
equally affect the skin, which is undesirable.
Depilatories • 303
Mechanism of Action
The chemical treatment of hair involves the rupture of hair, break-
down and reformation of sulfide linkage, which are responsible for
stability and flexibility of the hair fibre. But at the same time, it
should not be a complete breaking of all cross linking disulfide bonds,
in the permanent waving process. The various chemical agents as
alkali, metal sulfides, sulfites, cyanides, amines, mercaptans, and
certain metal salts. The s-s bond is affected with the increasing
osmotic pressure within the hair fibre and as a result of which it
swells, loses its tensile strength and generally deteriorates. A mass
ofjelly like consistency, which can be easily removed by wiping or
scraping, is the final stage of alkaline hydrolysis in the presence of
a reducing agent. Both the outer layer (cuticle) and the inner colour
bearing layer (cortex) are disintegrated.
Formula 6
Strontium sulfide 35.0%
Corn starch 35.0
Powdered soap 5.0
Zinc oxide 23.0
Benzocaine 0.2
Perfume 1.8
Mix with water at the time of application.
Sodium sulfide 4%
Glycerol
Kaolin 32%
Water 63
Part B
Barium sulfide 8%
Calcium carbonate 32%
Powdered soap 4
Glycerol 2
Water 54
Depilatories • 305
Part C
3. It should maintain "build up" around the hair shaft and cling
to the hairy area. (This could be achieved by adding suit-
able surface tension reducing agents compatible with alkali
and alkali earth metals either anionics like alkali metals fatty
alcohol sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and several non-ionics
of the polyoxy alkylene alcohol or either types, as suitable
wetting agents and provide satisfactory emulsifiers, for for-
mulations of lotions and creams which contain high con-
centrations of electrolytes. Thickening agents like traga-
canth, karaya, guar, and quince seed exracts polyvinyl al-
cohol, methyl or hydroxy ethyl cellulose can also help in
maintaining consistency and emolliency is achieved with
cetyl or stearyl alcohol.
Procedure
Formula 9
Formula 10
Formula 11
Thioglycolic acid 8%
Calcium oxide 8
Sodium dodecyl xanthate IS
Purified sperm oil 5
Water 64
The above formulations have a problem of perfuming. The task
of masking the unpleasant odour and rendering it consumer accept-
able makes it an arduous and frustrating task. There is a possibility
of the perfuming agents reacting with the ingredients, which may
develop discoloration as well distortion of the original perfume.
Hence they are to be selected carefully after intensive trials.
308 • -Textbook of Cosmetics
Toxicity
Although several cases of apparent sensitization of thioglycolic acid
have been cited, toxicity experiments shoW that solutions contain-
ing less than 80% of purified thioglycolate apparently do not cause
primary skin irritation.
Reagents
Procedure
Minerals
As minerals are essential to microbial growth although they are
highly variable in their requirements for growth and at times an-
tagonize biological effects. A single substrate like gelatin, may pro-
vide all of the above requirements.
Moisture Content
Bacteria in general require higher water content. Other factors
essential for growth of microbes are pH, temperature, oxygen etc.,
surface active agents generally present in cosmetics, may have an
effect on the type of growth of certain organisms. Among the most
obvious effects is the tendency to grow large in size. The effect of
ingredients such as certain perfumes, and essential oils, may pro-
vide added protection.
Efficacy of Preservatives
A preservative which can act with minimum concentration and
Sheff Life of Cosmetics • 313
Evaluation of Preservatives
The official A.O.A.0 phenol coefficient methods, utilizes salmonella
typhosa, and micrococcus pyogenes var. aureus as test organisms.
Another method that can be followed is "zone of inhibition".
List of Preservatives
I. Organic acids
2. Alcohols
3. Aldehydes
4. Essential oils
5. Phenolic compounds
6. Esters of hydroxy benzoates
7. Methyl-5, ethyl-7, propyl- 12, butyl-5
8. Ophenylphenol
9. Mercury compounds
10. Surfactants
11. Miscellaneous nitrogen compounds
Antioxidants
Cosmetic preparations containing fats and oils, particularly those
314 • Textbook of Cosmetics
LIST OF ANTIOXIDANTS
Phenolic Type
Qulnone Type
Hydroxycoumarins
Tocopherols
Solvent-extracted wheat germ oil
Shelf Life of Cosmetics • 315
Amine Type
A Antienzyme
toothpaste, 110
Absorption, 6 toothpowder, 104
Acetylated lanolin alcohol, 33 Antioxidants, 313
Acid mouthwash, 119 Antiperspirant(s), 203
Acidic cleansing cream, 61 and deodorants
Adhesiveness, 6 Labeling of, 218
Aftershave powder, 26 creams, 209
Aftershave preparation, 79, 81 lotions, 212
Alcohol lanolin ester, 34 powders, 212
Alcoholic lotions, 134 sticks, 212
Alkaline mouthwash, 116 Antiseptic mouthwash, 120
Alkyl benzene sulfonate shampoo Aromatic mouthwash, 118
Formula, 260 Astringent action
Alkyl sulphate shampoos Testing of, 97
Formulas, 260 Astringent lotions, 96
All-purpose cream(s), 59 Mild, 224
olw nonionic type Astringent mouthwash, 118, 119
Formula, 59
All-synthetic detergent shampoo
bar, 265 B
Am' dyes, 184 Baby creams, 242
Ammoniated tooth powder, 102 Formulas, 247
Anatomy of nails, 191 Baby lotions, 238, 240
Anhydrous creams, 285 Formulas, 244
Anionic emulsifiers, 43 Baby oils, 237,240
Anionics, 43 Formulas, 243
Antacid toothpowder, 104 Baby powders, 28, 241
Antibacterial creams, 62 Formulas, 250
Antibacterials, 264 Baby products, 236
Antidandruff shampoo(s), 265 Baby shampoo, 269
Formulas, 265 Formulas, 252
318 • Textbook of Cosmetics
T W
Tablet toothpowder, 127 Walnut, 183
Talc, 291 Water repellent binder. 294
Talcum powders, 25 Water soluble binder, 293
Tartar removing toothpowder, 104 Water-in-oil emulsions, 155
Testing of astringent action, 97 Wave sets, 180
Therapeutic creams, 60 Wet compression method, 17
Thickening agents, 263 Wet moulding method, 17
Thioglycolate depilatories White base
Packing of, 308 for heavy powders with zinc
Thioglycolates, 167 oxide and titanium dioxide,
Titanium dioxide, 292 13
Toilet goods association for light pnwders with zinc
specification for oxide, 12
thioglycolates. 170 for medium powders with zinc
Toilet powders, 24 oxide, 12
Toothpastes Witch hazel and benzoin lotion, 93
Manufacture of, 112 Witch hazel lotion, 92
Toothpowders ' Wood extracts, 182
Formula, 102
Manufacture of, 106
Treatment of sunburn, 224 Z
Triethanolamine shampoo, 268 Zinc oxide. 292
Formula, 257 Zinc sulphate plus ascorbic acid,
Two-layer cleansing tablet, 126 122