M.vimaladevi - Text Book of Cosmetics

Textbook of
Cosmetic
M. Vimaladevi
Textbook of
co'smetios
Foreword
T GIVES ME great pleasure to write this Foreword for this path-

I breaking book on cosmetics, the framework of which the Au-
thor had discussed with me two years back when she visited me at
AICTE. I am happy to notice that the book is much more compre-
hensive than the framework she had initially discussed with me.
The book covers the entire gamut of cosmetics, including their for-
mulations, in such a way that both the students as well as the actual
formulators will find it equally useful. The theory and practical as-
pects of cosmetics technology have been beautifully balanced in
treatment in the book.
It is my earnest hope that the students will greatly benefit from
this book during their studies as well as in their professional carriers;
I compliment the Author for her leadership and commitment in
producing this book.
Prof R.S.Gaud
Senior Advisor
AICTE, New Delhi
Preface
HIS VOLUME 15 A compilation of cosmetic products of body atIJ

T beauty care, products intended to be of theoretical ol - pttticat
help to students at graduate level of pharmacy.
Although written primarily with students in mind, the bobk will
be also useful for the cosmetic ifldustry, cosmetologists, beauticians,
dermatologists, physicians and non-technical persons interested
in knowing about cosmetics as it discusses in detail manufac-
turing processes of various cosmetics.
On the whole, the aim of this book is to give a comprehensive
idea on cosmetics of the east and the west, their method of manu-
facture, packaging and application.
In view of the vast progress cosmetic technology has made lii
the recent past, there is a need for graduates to go deeper into this
part of pharmaceutical technology in an unprecedented manner,
specially with the revised technical syllabus including a separate
paper on cosmetics which was earlier coveted under pharmaceuti-
cal technology.
I sincerely hope that this book serves its purpose. Suggestions
from readers are welcome.
Acknowledgement
ACKNOWLEDGE WITH GREAT fondness the encouragement and help

I my children have provided me at all stages of preparation of this
volume and thereafter at the time of its production. I greatly admire
and cherish their support without which my ambition of writing this
book would have remained a distant dream.
I am indebted to my typist Mrs. Jayashree and Mr. Sridhar for
maintaining their patience with me in accommodating all those
changes which were called by me from time to time. I thank them
for their understanding and perseverance.
Special thanks to my publishers who gave my work the form of
a book thus helping me fulfil my aim.
Contents
Foreword V
Preface Vii
Acknowledgements ix
Introduction
1. Face and Body Powders 3
2. Hand Creams and Lotions 29
3. Shaving Cream 67
4, Lotions 88
5. Oral 1-lygenic Products 101
6. Hair Care Products 122
7. Hair Dyes 174
8. Cosmetics for Nails 191
9. Antiperspirants and Deodorants 203
10. Sun Screens 219
II. Eye-makeup Products 226
12. Baby Toiletries/Products 236
13. Shampoos 253
14. Bath Preparations 271
xli • Contents
15. Rouge 281
16. Depilatories 299
17. Shelf Life (Stability) of Cosmetics 310
Index 317
Introduction
SME1CS ARE IN use since thousands of years. The practice
continues today, because of growing importance in personal
body and beauty care in many pattiôflhe world. A growing inter-
est among consumers in cosmetics has created the need for greater
precision and scientific back up in the development and manufac-
turing processes of products. This has urged the pharmacists to
identify pharmaceutical technology as one of the relevant subjects
for the future development of cosmetics.
Cultural beliefs and traditional practices have playci asubstan-
tial role in continued application of cosmetics, in the West as well as
in the East. This made the scientists carry out research in cosmet-
ics, and as a result more and more products are being developed
and marketed. Body and beauty care products are likely to surpass
the consumption of drugs in future. A large segment of the world
population is showing greater inclination towards natural cosmetics
which seems to be the future hope.
Throughout the ages cosmetics have played a major role as toots
of beautification for men and women alike. Medicinal and cos-
metic arts were quite advanced in many civilizations and India was
no exception. Infact, Sushruta a pioneer in surgery, (6th century
AD.) is also remembered for his suggestions on maintaining a
healthy body, diet, hygiene and exercise.
India was the leader in medicinal and cosmetic arts during the
dupta period (3rd to 5th century A.D.). Cosmetics and hygiene
2 ! Textbook of Cosmetics
were advanced. The daily toiletries of ladies included many types
of creams, oils and pastes like allagech (Eagle Wood) costus, frank-
incense, myrrh, camphor, saffron and sandalwood—which are some
of the oldest known aromatic substances from India.
Make-up of many kinds including hair dyes, were used by men
and women alike. Attars and floral waters for b4th and a list of
cosmetics exclusively for men also existed.
Betel leaves were used to darken lips and teeth; vermilion and
other colours with waxes were used for facial designations. Al-
mond paste for the entire body, perfumes and aromatics were used
in all forms for religious rites and on social occasions such as wed-
dings, birthdays etc.
Apart from the Indian civilization there were many others that
developed the art of cosmetics-Egyptian, Persian, Greek, Chinese
and Japanese. Travellers to and from India, China, Japan and Tibet
spread much knowledge of cosmetics worldwide.
The Persians and the Arabs had improved methods of treating
condition of the skin and hair. They had even enriched their mate-
na medica with plants brought from Asia. Perfumes were intro-
duced in Rome first by barbers as solid unguents, oily liquids and
powders. Some perfumeries were even selling cosmetic appliances
if we may call them so, useful in the manufacture of cosmetics.
Since the 16th century, cosmetics were separated from medi-
cine and from the 17th century, cosmetic technology started devel-
oping on its own. Cosmetics were defined as:
• Preparations and not devices.
• Cleaning agents, like shaving creams, shampoos, cleansing
creams and lotions etc.
• Products that can include drugs, e.g. antiperspirants creams
and
• Products to be used on the human body.
Today, a plethora of cosmetic applications, for every part of the
body is available in the world market. The evolution of cosmetics
- proves that there is a clear distinction between the earlier drama
artist's make-up material and popular cosmetics for general usage.
I
Face and
Body Powders
F ALL THE COSMETICS used, face powder easily sits on the top
Q of the list. It is equally popular among men as well as women.
It was a common practice among women in the olden days to use a
little cornstarch or flour on their faces to cover shine and for some-
time just plain white powder was very popular. Technological de-
velopments in the manufacture of face powder lead to incorpora-
tion of colour and perfume. The modem day face powder is a prod-
uct that adds very materially to personal beauty. People who are
conscious about their looks apply it several times a day. Though the
applications are small, the total consumption is high.
Due to misconception and also due to competitive and negative
type of advertising, the use of face powder came under some criti-
cism. Bismuth, lead or mercury contained in it were believed to be
harmful. Furthermore, it was thought to be the cause of pimples and
blackheads, that it gets into pores of the skin and clogs them, that orris
root in particular which it contined, produced an allergy like hay fever,
or asthma and the use of starch was harmful to the skin.
Modern face powders are manufactured by reputed companies
using purified ingredients, approved colous and non-irritating per-
fumes. Inspite of daily applications none of these harmful effects
have been suffered.
4 • Textbook of Cosmetics
A face powder manufacturer's priority concerns the require-

ments of women. Fragrance is the first characteristic, because the
first thing a woman does is to smell the powder while examining it.
The nature of the fragrance should be such that it blends well with
other perfumes and is not too predominant. It should also have
lingering qualities both in the sealed or opened package and upon
the skin. Next, the shade is very important as a large percentage of
women buy face powder exclusively because of its shade. A large
variety of shades are available with the approval of federal agen-
cies like FDC (Food Drug & Cosmetic) or D&C (Drug & Cos-
meiic). As a rule, the manufacturer selects water insoluble colours,
pigment and lakes for best results.
Apart from colour and odour a face powder must possess, slip,
adhesion, fine particle size and covering power for consumer ac-
ceptance. Furthermore, it should be soft and fine to feel and have
proper hulking powder. The various grades of face powder avail-
able are light, medium and heavy. Light and medium are the most
popular covering powders.
The terms 'light', 'medium', and 'heavy' used for covering pow-
der really have nothing to do with the density of the powder. These
terms refer to the amount of powder needed to cover the same
area of skin.
The types of skin which the face powder must cover are dry,
normal, moderately oily, and very oily. Dry skin secretes very little
moisture and no oil. Therefore it requires a powder with light cov-
ering power. Normal and moderately oily skin being more shiny due
to secretion of moisture and oil requires a powder with more cover-
ing power. Very oily skins require a powder of heavy covering power
due to high shine.
There are many women with generally dry skin and yet suffer
from pity foreheads, oily noses or oily chins. In such cases, differ-
ent pqwlersof different covering powers are simultaneously used.
In addition to the covering powder the manufacturer must also
pyovkde suitable perfume, shades and attractive packaging.
Intelligent marketing strategy may recommend women to buy
t)yo colours—one for the day and the other lighter one for night to
counter the effects of artificial lighting.
Face and Body Powders • 5
PROPERTIES OF FACE POWDER

Let us try to understand the different properties of a face powder.
Covering Powder
One of the important functions of a face powder is to conceal the

shine and minor skin imperfections. For this the primary requisite is
covering power. Most raw materials possessing this particular prop-
erty have it excessively and are somewhat lumpy and tend to drag
when applied to the skin. It then becomes necessary to employ
another material which serves the twin purpose of acting as a ve-
hicle or diluent for the covering agent and at the same time facili-
tates easy application to the skin. Talc fits in suitably.
Next, adhesiveness of the skin must be sufficiently taken care of
so as to enable the powder to remain on the skin for a considerable
length of time. With magnesium, calcium and zinc stearates and
sometimes with the addition of oil, this is achieved. Finally it must
have an ingredient that acts as a binder for the colour and perfume
and which facilitates distribution of both of them during manufac-
turing operation. Magnesium carbonate and precipitated chalk are
used for this purpose.
A face powder must therefore possess the following properties.
(a) Covering power
(b) Slip
(c) Adhesiveness
(d) Absorption
(e) Colour and Perfume
(t) Should not give peach or mat like appearance after appli-
cation
(g) Should not runoff the face on motor riding
(h) Should not make the consumer apply many times on the
face
The various weights of the face powder are proportional to the
covering agent present in the formula. Basically a face powder can
be made of any pure white, chemically inert powder that is suffi-
ciently fine and exhibits one or more of the above properties.
The materials commonly used are given below.
Covering Power
Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide, lithopone, kaolin (colloi-
dal), calcium sulfate, magnesium oxide, and starch.
Slip
Talc, starch, and metallic soaps.
Adhesiveness
Calcium, magnesium and zinc stearate, starch and colloidal clay
(purified kaolin).
Absorption
Precipitated chalk, magnesium carbonate, starch, and purified ka-
olin.
A bulk of the commercial face powder constitutes the materials

listed above. The principal materials are zinc oxide, titanium diox-
ide, talc, kaolin, the stearates, starch and chalk.
Rice starch is the ideal material possessing all the properties of
face powder. However, it has not been favored in the USA due to
its clinging properties which emphasizes light hairs on the lips and
cheeks and its tendency to absorb moisture and smell although it
does impart a much sought after smooth "peachy" effect. Never-
theless many leading French powders contain rice starch. Rice
starch because of its drawback can be substituted by precipitated
chalk. It imparts the same peachy texture and is not harmful. But
ordinary grades do not spread or adhere evenly. Certain grades of
processed chalk with all the required properties for a face powder
can be used.
Chemists were apprehensive about using Barium Sulphate in
view of the known toxicity of the other related barium salts.
Bismuth compounds are used in Europe although there is a dis-
advantage—they darken when exposed to light. Materials most
widely used in Europe are zinc oxide, purified kaolin, talc, the me-
tallic stearates-zinc stearate in particular-precipitated chalk and
magnesium carbonate. Titanium dioxide is a more recent addition
and is gaining popularity. It is being preferred to zinc oxide because
it has better covering power than the latter, besides being extremely
fine, white and chemically inert. Any insoluble, inert, white powder
(about 200 mesh) having the desired properties can be used in the
proportion.
With a better understanding of the densities of the face powder
and a thorough knowledge of the ingredients that constitute it we
move on to the development of formulas. It will be observed that
the constant factors in each formula are covering agents, adhesive
agents and absorbent agents. The variable factor is talc, that varies
from formula to formula depending upon the amount of colour and
perfume introduced.
Formulas
Light Face Powder with Zinc Oxide for Popular Shades
Materials White Peach Rachel Natural Flesh Ochre Suntan
(a)Zinc oxide 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00 1800 18.00
(b)Talc 6900 67.52 68.00 68.06 68.64 64.84 58.69
(c)Zinc stearate 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(d)Precipitated
Chalk 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(e)Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(1) Ochre - 1.44 1.00 0.88 0.33 4.09 8.89
Brilliant pink lake - 0.04 0.00 0.06 0.03 0.07 0.35
Burnt Sienna - 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.07
100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
Medium Face Powder with Purified Kaolin with Popular Shades

(a) Titanium dioxide 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00
(b) Purified Kaolin 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00
(c) Talc 66.00 64.52 65.00 65.06 65.64 61.34 55.69
(d) Magnesium
stearate 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
(e)Magnesium
carbonate 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(I) Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(g ) Ochre - 1.44 1.00 0.88 0.33 4.09 8.89
Brilliant pink lake - 0.44 0.00 0.06 0.03 0.07 0.35
Burnt Sienna - 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.07
100.00 100.04 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100,00
Medium Face Powder with Titanium Dioxide for Popular Shades

(a) Titanium dioxide 5.21 5.21 5.21 5.21 5.21 5.21 5.21
(b) Talc 82,79 81.31 81.79 81.85 82.43 78.63 72.48
(c) Zinc stearate 5,00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
(d) Precipitated
Chalk 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(e) Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(fl Ochre - 1.44 1.00 0.88 0.33 4.09 8.89
Brilliant pink Lake - 0.44 0.00 0.06 0.03 0.07 0.35
Burnt Sienna - 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.07
100.00 100.04 100.00 100.00 100,00 100.00 100.00
Heavy Face Powder with Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide for
Popular Shades

(a) Titanium dioxide 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 300 3.00 3.00
(b) Zinc oxide 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00
(c) Talc 6600 64,52 65.00 65.06 65.64 61.84 55.69
(d) Zinc stearate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4,00
(e) Precipitated
Chalk 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(fl Perfume LOft 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(g ) Ochre - 1.44 1.00 0.88 0.33 4.09 8.89
Brilliant pink Lake - 0.44 0.00 0.06 0.03 0.07 0.35
Burnt Sienna - 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.07
csrIxO.rnxIpJ,xsIsprs:.xI:.IpIIxEtrnxn[nIcI1
It may be noted that colours purchased in fairly large quantities

ensure uniformity over a considerable period of time. Further,
I. All ingredients, with the exception of talc, are constant for
all shades.
2. Chalk is a constant factor for all shades and weights.
3. The weight of the powder has no influence over the colour
necessary to produce a given shade.
4. The light powder contains more zinc stearate than medium
and heavy powders because less adhesiveness is required
as the skin gets more and more oily.
5. Formulas employing zinc oxide as covering agent have talc
content as constant.
This condition is desirable because it provides the heavy powder
as much slip as a light powder. Many commercial powders have
increased the zinc oxide content and decreased the talc content for
greater covering power only to lose slip.
This problem can be rectified by increasing the covering power
by the addition of a small quantity of titanium dioxide to zinc oxide.
This will enable all the heavy powders to possess the same amount
of slip although varying widely in covering power. The substitution
in part or whole of titanium dioxide for zinc oxide in heavy powders
yields the same degree of covering power as an increased percent-
age of zinc oxide content in heavy powders shows a tendency to
cake.
The covering power of Titanium dioxide is about five times that
of zinc oxide, which means achieving the desired effect with one
fifth of the volume of zinc oxide used. However, because of the
fact that it may not hold the colour as well as zinc oxide under the
influence of the secretion of the face, it is advisable to mix zinc
oxide.
Furthermore, as titanium dioxide does not dry as readily as zinc
sulphide or zinc oxide, it is recommended that it be added to chalk in
making the colour base with thorough milling.
Cold cream and mineral oil are added to face powder by some
manufacturers, but it is difficult to say whether they serve any pur-
pose, other than improving the adhesiveness of a poorly formulated
face powder. in the case of cold cream, it is superfluous because
the water phase evaporates leaving behind only the oil.
It is believed by some that magnesium carbonate adsorbes bet-
ter then precipitated chalk and retains the perfume better. If both
are used in the same formula, their ratio must be 2 : I, and gener-
ally, the perfume oil is mixed with magnesium carbonate and the
colour with chalk.
Increasing the stearate in the above indicated quantities leads to
transparency of the powder after application.
RAW MATERIALS
It is of utmost importance to note that the quality of raw materials

used for the manufacture of face powder should be of finest, whit-
est and highest quality.
The following grades of raw materials are recommended:
Zinc oxide : Finest, white grade.
Talc : Finest white, 99% through 200
mesh.
Zinc stearate Whitest grade made from triple
pressed stearic acid and odour free.
Precipitated chalk Lightest, whitest grade.

Magnesium carbonate Lightest, whitest grade.
Titanium dioxide Finest white 200 mesh or better
MANUFACTURING METHODS
The perfume compound is mixed with apart of magnesium carbon-
ate in an enameled white pail or a suitable vessel. The mixture is
rubbed through a hand sieve with a stiff bristle brush once the oil is
absorbed or it is run through a power brush sifter until the perfume
is uniformly distributed. Then the colours are mixed in the same
way with the rest of magnesium carbonate and chalk. The process
is continued till no colour flakes show on a white paper when the
mixture is rubbed out on it. A sample is kept aside for matching
purpose.
The colour and perfume bases are then added to the rest of the
raw materials into a mixer and mixed until they become uniform. It
should be checked if it matches with the matching sample. Finally
the powder is sifted at least to a 300 mesh product. Some manufac-
turers sift all the materials first before mixing in order to save cleaning
of sieves.
Fineness of particle size has been described by terms like air
floated, micronized and air spun, the process by which this condi-
tion is obtained. In air floating, the finished powder is passed through
a mill equipped with a fan cyclone and a dust arrester to air sepa-
rate the coarse particle to a predetermined height because they
cannot be blown or floated, until they are adequately fine. A
micronizer is a mill that grinds all the powder particles to a desired
micron size (0.001 mm). The air spinning process employs a method
wherein the powder is whirled around by a purified continuous air
stream tinder great pressure. It is housed in a specially constructed
cylindrical vessel. The powder particles knock against each other
at an estimated speed of over thousand miles per hour. This colli-
sion at high speed reduces the particle size. At this point the smaller
particles are sucked out through the use of a centrifugal force prin-
ciple while the larger ones remain inside until they are divided fur-
ther.
12 • Te4took of Cosmetics
Processes like these render uniform distribution of perfume and
colour and provide greater fluffiness. Some manufacturers in fact
leave the finished powder in air tight bins for several weeks before
filling it.
There is however, a second method of manufacture which em-
ploys two operations. First the preparation of a white powder base
which is perfumed and stored in air tight tins to bloom. Secondly,
sufficient quantities of colour bases are made at one time for sev-
eral batches. This process speeds up the manufacture of face powder
and also offers uniformity.
Formulas
White Base for Light Powders with Zinc Oxide
Zinc oxide 22.83

Talc 67.73
Zinc Slearate 6.25
Precipated chalk or Magnesium carbonate 2.25
Perfume 1.04
1110.10
White Base for Medium Powders with Zinc Oxide

Zinc oxide 26.04
Talc 65.46
Zinc stearate 5.21
Perfume 1.04
100.00
With Titanium Dioxide

Titanium Oxide 3.00
Talc 88.50
Zinc slearate 5.21
Perfume 1.04
100.00
White Base for Heavy Powders with Zinc Oxide and Titanium
Dioxide
Titanium dioxide 3.00
Zinc oxide 2125
Talc 68.29
Zinc stearate 4.17
Precipated chalk or Magnesium carbonates 2.25
Perfume 1.04
100.00
Powder Bases
Peach (Also called nude, natural)
Precipitated chalk 59.0
Golden ochre 40.0
Brilliant pink lake 1.0
100.00
Use 5 parts and 95 parts white powder.
Rachel
Golden ochre 25.0
100.00
Use 4 parts and 96 parts white powder
Flesh
Golden ochre 5.0
100.00
Naturelle
Golden ache 24.0
Brilliant pink lake hO
100.00
Ochre
Golden ochre 3.0
Brilliant pink take 43.0
100.00
Use S parts and 92 parts while powder
Suntan
Golden ochre 58.0
100.00
ADDITIONAL FORMULAS
Talc 40.0 56.0
Colloidal clay 2(10 20.0
Zinc oxide 20.0 10.0
Zinc stearate 10.0
Magnesium carbonate 5.0 4.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 75.0
Zinc oxide 20.0
Zinc stearate 5.0
100.0
Talc 60.0 80.0
Zinc stearate 20.0 4.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 69,0 82.79
Zinc oxide 18.0
Precipitated chalk 7.0 7.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 74.5 30.0

Zinc oxide 1 0.0 20.0
Titanium dioxide 10.5 5.0
Colloidal clay - 40.0
Precipitated chalk 5.0 -
Magnesium stearate - 5.0
100.0 100.0
Zinc stearate 6.0 -
Talc 40.0 15.0
Colloidal clay 45.0 25.0
Titanium dioxide 4.0 5,0
Magnesium stearate - 10.0
Magnesium carbonate 5.0 -
Precipitated chalk - 45.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 20.0 38.0

Magnesium stearate 5.0 13.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 15.0 67.0

Titanium dioxide 10.0 4,0
Magnesium stearate 5.0 3.0
Rice starch 30.0 -
100.0 100.0
Talc 52.5 67.0

Colloidal clay 15.0 -
Titanium dioxide - 3.0
Magnesium carbonate 2.5 -
100.0 100.0
Talc 51.5 51.5
Titanium dioxide 3.0 5.0
Zincoxide 12.0 12.0
Zinc stearaLe 7.0 7.0
100.0 100.0
Talc 31.5 46.8
Titanium dioxide - 4.5
Zinc stearaLe 8.0 8.1
Precipitated chalk 6,0 4.5
Mineral oil 2.0 0.1
100.0 100.0
VARITIES IN FACE POWDERS

Compact powders, cake make-up powders, cream powders and
liquid powders are closely related to face powders in composition
and that is why we intend to discuss them at this point. Cosmetic
stockings are similar to liquid powders and they are also being dis-
cussed here.
As we have already seen slip, adhesion, covering power, colour
and odour are important properties of a good commercial face pow-
der. This is equally true of compact powder which can be consid-
ered as a face powder moulded into a tablet. The processes in-
volved in compact powders are very similar to those of tablet mak-
ing in the pharmaceutical field. Methods of manufacture of cake
rouge and compact powder are essentially the same, since rouge is
merely a more highly coloured tablet of compact powder. The equip-
ment used is also the same.
Wet compression method, dry compression method and wet moul-
ding method, are the thee common processes used for tablet face
powder.
Wet Compression Method

The powder ingredients are mixed thoroughly just as in the manufacture of
face powder. Fine powders cannot be readily compressed into a tab-
let. Further processing is necessary to form granules which is done by
melting down with a liquid and binderand thorough mixing until apasty
mass is obtained. It is granulated by passing the damp mass through I /
8th inch mesh screen tacked over a frame through a specially built
granulator. The wet granules are spread on trays and dried. Dried
granules are then compressed by a tablet or compact press.
Dry Compression Method

In this method the powder base colour and perfume are milled by a
pulverizer or ball mill. It is then moistened by a binding solution and
mixed thoroughly until granular. These granules are then compressed
and the finished cakes are dried in a drying cabinet at about 140 °F.
Wet Moulding Method

In this method all the ingredients are made into a wet, heavy paste.
The paste is poured or pressed by rolling into lubricated nickel moulds
and is allowed to dry. Dextrin or gum arabic adhesive is painted
over the surface of the rouge cakes. Then glass, porcelain or metal
plates are pressed down on the glued surface of the rouge cakes.
When the cakes are dry they adhere to the plates.
A compact must be neither too hard nor too soft. The powder.
should come off easily on to the puff and the cake must not get
hard and shiny. The basic ingredients used are the same as in face
powder. The colours are mineral pigments, lakes and FD&C colours
which are also similar to those used in face powder. The stearates
make good binders and spreading agents. However, talc should be
restricted to 50%, as more will cause cracking of cakes. The bind-
ing solution must be made in bulk quantities and the viscosity stan-
dardized. The binding solution is made from materials like gelatin,
gum tragacanth, gum acacia, gum karaya, methyl cellulose, quince
seed, rosin, Irish moss and occasionally lanolin dissolved in ether is
added. The binding solution requires a preservative.
A typical binding solution formula is given below:

Parts or
Gum tragacanth mucilage (2%) 20.0
Quince seed mucilage (2%) 10.0
Gelatin mucilage (3%) 10.0
Rosin tincture 1.0
Water 58.8
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate 0.2
100.0
A typical base powder formula is
Paris or %
Talc (300 mesh) 40.0
Zinc oxide 20.0
Zinc stearate 6.0
Rice starch 10,0
Magnesium carbonate 3.0
Colloidal clay 10.0
Colour pigment 10.5
Perfume 0.5
100.0
To make a finished compact from these mix all the ingredients of
the base formula together and run through a pulverizer, or a ball
mill. Moisten the base powder with a sufficient quantity of the bind-
ing solution to make a suitable granulation for the type of process
being followed, compress and dry the cakes.
Other formula for base powder follows:
Parts or 9t
Talc California 62.0
China clay 15.5
Zinc oxide 7.5
Zinc stearate 7.5
Gum Arabic mucilage q.s. to granulate
Perfume
Lake colour 7.5
100.0
Compact Powder Base No. 1

or Paris
Kaolin 40
Tale 40
Magnesium carbonate 10
Rice starch 10
Perfume q.s
Anhydrous lanolin q.s
Ether q.s
Mix the powdered materials in a mixer together with the proper

amount of lake colours. Granulate with the lanolin ether solution
and binding solution.
Cake Make-up
In the manufacture and formulation of cake make-up, great care
must be exercised to keep the formulas and processing standard-
ized. The mixing operations, drying temperatures and fineness of
powders must be kept uniform, else the result will be a substandard
product. The use of cake make-up produces a flat, smooth, lasting
finish to the skin, which is not achieved by any other cosmetic. It
also conceals minor skin defects.
The composition of cake make-ups consists of ingredients used
in face powder like talc, chalk, kaolin colloidal clay, titanium dioxide
and zinc oxide, besides light or heavy mineral oils, vegetable oils,
pigments, perfumes, water, humectants like glycerol and glycols,
binding and emulsifying agents.
A well-formulated cake will come our easily with a moistened
tissue or sponge as an emulsion and should cover the skin uni-
formly. Some products when still moist are blended into the skin
with fingertips or cleansing tissues and others are left to dry on the
skin. Whatever may be the technique of application, the film pro-
duced should not "draw' the'skin by drying out quickly, remain on
the skin throughout the day, repel moisture caused by perspiration,
and be easily removed by washing with soap and water.
In order to obtain these properties the study of certain mineral

earths will help us.
Titanium dioxide & zinc oxide: Impart covering and mask-
ing properties to the cake.
Kaolin and colloidal clay: Help as binders in compressing
but excessive usage results in absorption of too much of wa-
ter causing the film to pile up and become uneven.
Chalk: Regulates easy brushing off or blending with skin.
Talc: Is stable filler. But if used in excess shine will be im-
parted.
It is imperative for the chemist to combine these mixed earths on

the other face powder ingredients judiciously to obtain the desired
effect.
Coming to other ingredients, the pigments selected should not
"bleed" during perspiration. Normally water insoluble lakes and
mineral pigments are preferred. The oils used may be light or heavy
mineral oils or vegetable oils and their function is to provide the
desired oiliness. Care should be taken to prevent rancidity in veg-
etable oils by adding anti-oxidants. Further, the right choice of emul-
sifiers and right proportions must be used with mixed powders so
as to prevent degreasing of skin.
The manufacturing process of cake make up differs when com-
pared to compacts. First the powders are mixed. The water—oil
emulsion and humectant are subsequently added and the mixture is
passed through a roller mixer for greater homogeneity. The result-
ant paste is then granulated and pressed into cakes.
Liquid Cream Powders or "Night Whites"
Liquid and cream powders are often called "night whites" and are
used for evening wear to counter the glare of electric - lights. They
are applied to face, neck and arms and serve to blend the colours of
the skin exposed only in the evening dress due to their high opacity.
Face and Powders • 21
No. 1 Liquid Powder

Colloidal clay 18.0
Glycerin 8.0
Water 71.5
Perfume 0.5
100.0
No.2 Liquid Powder

Colloidal clay 8.0
Zinc oxide IOU
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 5.0
Orange flower water 67.0
100.0
No.3 Liquid Powder

Talc 10.0
Colloidal clay 5.0
Glycerin 10.0
Rose Water 64.5
Alcohol 5.5
Perfume q.s
100.0
No.4 Liquid Powder

Colloidal zinc oxide 6.0
Colloidal clay 3.0
Zinc stearate 2.0
Glycerin 3.0
Witch hazel 10.0
1 no n
No. 5 Liquid Powder

Colloidal clay 5.0
Glycerin 3.0
Rose Water 79.0
1(10.0
No.6 Liquid Powder
Colloidal zinc oxide 8.0
Colloidal clay 5.0
Precipitated chalk, heavy 6.0
Glycerin 5.0
Witch hazel 10.0
100.0
No.7 Liquid Powder
or Parts
Heavy mineral oil 55.0
In which is dissolved by agitation and heat
Magnesium oleate 2.5
Light chalk 3.75
Talc 6.25
Perfume 2.25
Red iron oxide 3.0
Light ochre 2.25
100.0
Stir all other ingredients into the oil solution of magnesium oleate
and allow overnight before filling. In addition to the materials used
here, barium sulphate, bismuth subnitrate, bismuth subcarbonate,
lithopone and similar materials are sometimes employed. Some
manufacturers add small quantities of starch or saponin in order to
enhance adherence and stability. However, these additives must be
carefully used so that the product is neither too sticky nor slow in
drying out.
Manufacturing Methods
The powdered ingredients and colour, if any is used, are mixed
together in a powder mixer. The liquid ingredients on the other hand
are blended in a tank preferably fitted with an agitator. The powder
is slowly introduced into the blended liquids with agitation. Once
the powder is completely added, the mixture is stirred for half an
hour. The finished product is filled with the stirrer in motion to insure
uniform distribution of the powder in the liquid phase of the prepa-
ration, until the tank is emptied.
No. B Cream Powder
Vanishing cream 70.0
Talc 24.0
Perfume 0.5
100.0
Colour to suit
Make the vanishing cream in the usual way. Mix the talc and
titanium dioxide and colour and perfume. Add the cream and then
run the entire mass over a roller mill.
No. 9 Cream Powder
Glyceryt monostearate 10.0
Glycerin 3.0
Heavy mineral oil 5.0
Spermaceti 5.0
Stearic acid 2.0
Caustic potash U.S.P 0.1
Water 48.4
Perfume 0.5
Titanium dioxide 610
Talc 20.0
100.0
Textbook of Cosmetics
Dissolve the caustic potash in water then add all the rest of the
ingredients with the exception of the perfume, but include the colour.
Bring the mixture to a boil with constant stirring. Continue stirring
until all the materials have melted and have become homogeneous.
Shut off the heat and continue stirring until mass is cooled, then add
the perfume. Run the mass through a roller of ointment mill if the
colour does not come out uniformly.
No. 10 Cream Powder
Glycerin 42.0
Stearic acid 10.0
White lace powder 42.0
Distilled water 4.0
Potassium hydroxide U.S.l' 1.5
PerIl me 0.5
100.0
Colour to suit
Dissolve the potassium hydroxide in water, melt the stearic acid

and add the caustic solution. Mix until saponification is complete.
Heat the glycerin; add the face powder and colour and mix until all
lumps have disappeared. Then incorporate the first mixture, add
the perfume and mix again. Run the product through an ointment
mill to ensure smoothness and uniformity of colour distribution. Lake
colours are best for this type of product.
TOILET POWDERS
Toilet powders comprise of talcum powder, dusting powder or

body powder or after bath powder, after shave powder and baby
powder.
Talcum powder is the most important of these powders. As the
name implies, it mainly consists of talc and other ingredients. They
may not be used in the same large proportions as already discussed
under face powders because users of talcum powder are looking
for the characteristic slip of talc. Perfume and colour have large
bearing on the sales of talcum powder, although white and natural
shades sell the most. In some cases, camphor or boric acid are
added; in such cases where medicinal claims are made by the manu-
facturers, such a powder falls under the category of drugs and not
cosmetics.
Dusting powder, after shave powder, and baby powder are closely
related to talcum powder. They have more or less the same com-
position as talcum powder. Dusting powder is sold with a puff to
apply the same on person. After shave powder consists of talc with
the addition of colour and other mineral ingredients so as to enable
it to go on smoothly, cling to the face with less sheen and match the
colour of skin. Baby powders are normally less heavily perfumed
(for obvious reasons) and coloured. Boric acid because of its sooth-
ing and slightly antiseptic properties, is the favorite choice not only
in baby powders but all toilet powders.
The manufacturing method for toilet powders is generally the
same as face powders.
The following are formulae of talcum, body, and after-shave pow-
ders.
Talcum Powders
No. 1
Talc . 71.0
Zinc stearale 3.0
Boric acid 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No.2
Talc 54.0
Zinc stearate 3,0
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No.3
Talc 79.0
Magnesium carbonate 15,0
Boric acid 3.0
Magnesium stearalc 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No.4
Talc 19.0
Calcium carbonate 60.0
Rice starch 15.0
Boric acid 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
After Shave Powder
No.5
Talc 71.5
Zinc stearate 4.0
Golden ochre 0.5
Perfume 1.0
100.0
Body Powder
No.6
Talc 50.0
Kaolin 30.0
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No. 7
Talc 50.0
Zinc stearate 2.0
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 1.0
100.1)
No. 8
Talc 68.0
Colloidal clay 5.0
Boric acid 3.0
Magnesium stearate 3.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No. 9
Talc 70,0
Kaolin 13.0
Magnesium stearate 8.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
No. 10
Talc 70.0
Colloidal clay 11.0
Precipitated chalk 10,0
Zinc stearale 5.0
Boric acid 3.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
Baby Powders
No. II
Talc 63.63
Kaolin 20.0
Zinc stearate 5.0
Boric acid 6.0
Oxyquinoline benzoate 012
Perl'unie 0.25
100.0
No. 12
Talc 66.75
Colloidal clay 10.0
Magnesium stearatc 5.0
Boric acid 10.0
Pcrlijtne 0,25
10(1.1)
No. 13
Talc 54.0
Kaolin 20,0
Zinc stearate 5.0
Boric acid 10.0
100.0
There are other cosmetic powders such as deodorant powders,

foot powders, hair powders, suntan preventive powders, and tooth
powders, which can be covered under toilet powders. But as these
products have special properties they are categorized and dealt
with separately.
Hand Creams and
Lotions
HE PRESENT DAY cosmetic market has many forms of hand prod

ucts. Gone are the days of glycerine and rose water formula-
tions. The most popular among the hand products are hand cream
and hand lotion.
The popularity of these products relates to their genuine need—
for either prevention of a rough, dry skin or treatment of such con-
dition. Whatever the need may be, they are time-tested and have
come to be a part of a cosmetic consumer's life.
The most common cause of roughened dry skin is generally ac-
cepted as long repeated contact with water alone or detergent so-
lutions, particularly in cold water.
Through a series of fundamental experiments conducted by Blank
it was established that water content of the stratum corneum is all-
important in the maintenance of normal, soft, flexible skin.
Now, the treatment of dry skin involves the use of basic ingredi-
ents identified as emollients. It may be more or less defined as an
agent which, when applied to a dry or inflexible corneum, will
effect a softening of that tissue by inducing rehydration. This
would immediately lead us to think of water as an ideal emollient.
But the difficulty here is in its application. Only a thin film of water
can be retained on the skin. As a result of which evaporation takes
place before the emollient effect can be produced. The other pos-
sibility is to immerse the hands in water. However, this would tend
to produce excess hydration leading to swelling of stratum cor-
neum with the possibility of skin-cell damage.
The ideal emollient then must therefore be a substance that not
only provides water to the stratum corneum but at the same time
regulates its requirements.
Hence the formulation of cosmetic hand treatment products centre
around an emollient along with other ingredients combined judi-
ciously to evolve elegant hand creams and lotions.
Emollient cosmetic hand creams and lotions are somewhat unique
in the sense that the solids used (which are ultimately deposited on
the skin) have a higher melting point than the body temperature.
This explains the relatively dry non-greasy feel imparted after ap-
plication of these products. Moreover they create a "vanishing"
effect when rubbed on the skin due to the dry film on the hand and
the rapidity of water evaporation.
The conventional hand cream formula is a modified vanishing
cream of the 0/W type, the basic composition being a stearic acid
soap as the emulsifier, an excess of stearic acid and a humectant
such as glycerol and a high percentage of water. The hand lotion
formula can be very similar; the difference being only the propor-
tion of total solids.
Triethanolamine stearate is preferred over potassium or sodium
stearate in the stearate type lotion, since it is a softer and more
soluble soap than the other two. Though hand creams and lotions
are formulated to achieve the same end-results, they differ in the
usage of emollients while manufacturing.
Anionic emulsifiers, such 1hs soaps have been used for long in
'
hand creams and lotions. But the recent trend has been towards
-using nonionic and cationic emulsifiers to make non-soap cream
and lotions, slightly acidic in nature, to match the acidity of normal
skin which has an average pH of 5.5.
BASIC INGREDIENTS
Since the characteristics of a hand treatment formula are depen-

Hand Creams and Lotions • 31
dent upon the ingredients, it would be worth classifying and dis-

cussing these agents in some detail. The following ingredients are
used in hand cream formulation:
I. Emollients 2. Barrier agents 3. Healing agents
4. Humectants 5. Emulsifiers 6. Preservatives
7. Perfume oil and 8. Coloring agents
Emollients
Agents like lanolin and its derivatives, sterols phospholipids, hydro-

carbons, fatty acids, esters and fatty alcohols are specifically used
for their skin softening property.
Lanolin
Lanolin is widely used in hand treatment products. According to
studies lanolin helps in maintaining the epidermis in a normal condi-
tion. Although disputed, lanolin according to these studies hardly
penetrates the skin and is retained on the skin. However, its emol-
lient properties are universally accepted.
Lanolin is a natural wax consisting of mainly esters formed by
the union of higher alcohols and fatty acids. Its hydrophobic and
adhesive character makes it an excellent occlusive agent and hence
a good emollient.
The proportion of lanolin used does not generally exceed 5%
because when used in higher concentrations it tends to impart
"tackiness" to the end product.
Apart from being a good emollient it serves as a good emulsifier
too and forms W/O type emulsions.
Lanolin Alcohols
Lanolin alcohols, derived from lanolin are commercially available

and enjoy successful use in hand creams and lotions. These alcohols
fall into three basic categories, sterols, triterpene alcohols and ali-
phatic alcohols.
The emollient effect produced by lanolin is generally attributed

to the hydrophilic nature of sterols (sterol content of lanolin alcohols
being 30%) perhaps more specifically to the cholesterol. The lipids
present in the skin surface fat such as cholesterol are considered to
be hydrophilic and not hydrophobic in contrast to general belief and
upon prolonged contact allow soaking of water to a considerable
degree. This rehydration of the corneum is due to the presence of
cholesterol in the occlusive base.
Lanolin alcohols are available commercially in several forms.
1. Solid waxy materials: Yellow to amber colour.
2. Liquid Solution: Pale to golden yellow in colour. It is
usually a solution of lanolin alcohols in mineral oil.
Some outstanding examples of such a product are
Amerchol L- 101 and Nimlesterol. The first being a remark-
able surface active agent apart from being an excellent
emollient and the second is an excellent emulsifier and emol-
lient.
3. Unctuous Base: The lanolin alcohols, being excellent
emulsifiers themselves, have been combined with lanolin
and hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, mineral oil and par-
affin to produce ointment bases which when mixed with
water yielded W/O emulsions spontaneously. The prod-
ucts are referred to as absorption bases and are commer-
cially available. Some of these bases are modified with the
addition of emulsifiers such as glycol esters, ethylene gly-
col esters, and sorbitol esters.
Modified Lanolin
The following lanolin modifications which are advantageous in the
product development should be considered as far as the hand treat-
ment products are concerned.
Liquid Lano/ins
Liquid lanolin is obtained by fractionating lanolin. This liquid form of
lanolin is an effective emollient and enjoys the following advan-
tages over lanolin in hand cosmetics
I. Appreciably less drag and stickiness.
2. Considerably greater solubility in hydrocarbons, even at low
temperatures.
3. Greater concentration feasible in hand creams and lotions.
4. Greater ease of handling.
Esterifled Lanolin Alcohols

These lanolin esters have the same physical appearance as natural
lanolin but are appreciably soluble in mineral oil unlike lanolin. When
used in hand creams and lotions they deposit on the skin films that
are hydrophobic, waxy, protective and emollient in character. How-
ever, one important point concerning these esterified lanolins is that
they do not possess the emulsifying property that is so characteris-
tic of natural lanolin.
Acetyla ted Lanolin Alcohol

This is an emollient which has been developed as a liquid fraction
of acetylated lanolin alcohols. When used in hand creams and lo-
tions it is deposited on the skin as an emollient that was found to be
exceptionally nontacky and extremely hydrophobic.
Polyoxyalkylene Lanolins
The idea behind the creation of these lanolins was to incorporate
natural lanolin, an excellent emollient by itself although hydrophobic
in nature, with hydrophilic properties. They were produced by re-
acting ethylene oxide and lanolin and are semi-solid in nature, some-
what less viscous than natural lanolin, and more soluble in water
(than lanolin). This solubility varies directly with the ethylene oxide
chain length.
Polyoxyalkylene lanolins exhibit the following advantages in hand
cream and lotions formulations.
They deposit on the skin an occlusive film that is non insu-
lating.
2. They are emollient without excessive stickiness.

3. They can be used as primary emulsifiers, yielding oil-in-
water emulsions.
4. They impart greater surface activity.
5. They are excellent hydrophilic plasticizers in creams with
high solid content.
Alcohol Lanolin Ester

Another lanolin derivative is the product obtained from partial
transesterification of lanolin with isopropanol. It usually contains
30%-50% residual unreacted lanolin.
It lends to hand creams and lotions the solubilizing and plasticiz-
ing features of isopropyl alcohol apart from being an emollient.
Sterols
Cholesterol is the only sterol, which appears to have a specific
application as an emollient to hand creams and lotions and the rea-
son why it is so may be linked to the facts listed hereunder.
1. The surface of the skin is covered by a greasy layer con-
sisting mainly of waxes, free and esterified cholesterol.
2. An analysis of the skin surface fat shows 2.5% free cho-
lesterol and 2.5% esters of cholesterol.
3. The lipids present in the skin-surface fat, such as choles-
terol, hydrophilic upon prolonged contact, enable the layers
of the skin to take up water to a considerable degree.
4. Dermatologists have recommended the use of cholesterol
to lessen the irritating and defatting action of soap.
5. It is maintained that the sterols present even in an emulsi-
fied form for instance in soap lather, easily penetrate into
the epidermis and impart suppleness to skin.
Phospholipids
Phospholipids are complex fat-soluble substances that contain in
their molecule a nitrogenous base (such as choline or ethanola-
mine) in addition to fatty acids and glycerol. -
Lecithin, a phospholipid, has found a place in the hand cream

and lotion formulations as an emollient. Its concentration does not
generally exceed 5%; inflict, it usually hovers around the 1-2%
mark. Lecithin is not only an emollient but is an excellent emulsifier
as well as a surfactant.
Hydrocarbons
The hydrocarbons like petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin wax and
ozokerite have been used in emollients in hand creams and lotions
only to a certain effect. This is because they impart an uncomfort-
able feeling of warmth to the skin and also leave a sticky or waxy
effect.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids have earned the distinction of being one of the essential
ingredients in the formulation of hand creams and lotions. Of these
stearic acid is the only one of choice.
Stearic acid figures in most hand creams and lotions. In some as
part of the emulsifier (such as potassium stearate or triethanola-
mine stearate) but in the majority of cases it is also present as the
free acid with proportions varying from 1-20% depending on the
consistency of the finished product.
Stearic Acid
The percentage of stearic acid used in hand creams being appre-

ciable, the consistency of the end product depends greatly on the
type used.
The important fundamental difference between one type of stearic
acid and the other is in the method used in its manufacture. Here
are some of the various types of methods employed in the manu-
facture of stearic acid.
Stearic Acid obtained by Pressing

The fatty acid mixture obtained from splitting of tallow is separated
into a liquid and solid portion by a series of pressings. The solid

phase is made up of saturated fatty acids with higher molecular
weight like stearic and pal mitic. Commercial "triple pressed" stearic
acid generally consists of a combination of 55% palmitic and 45%
stearic acids. The liquid phase consists of oleic, linolic, and myristic
acids. The three grades of stearic acid: triple pressed, double pressed
and single pressed represent the pressing during separation.
In hand cosmetics the triple pressed grade is generally favoured,
sometimes double is employed where pearly sheen and softer con-
sistency are desired. The single pressed is hardly used because of
its high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids which have a ten-
dency to cause rancidity.
Stearic Acid obtained by Solvent Crystallization

Stearic acid obtained by this process involves fractional crystalliza-
tion of solid fatty acids from solvent solution and the successive
crystallization determines the degree of purity of the final product.
A commercial grade similar to triple pressed stearic acid can be
obtained by this method.
Stearic Acid obtained by Hydrogenation

Nearly pure fatty acids can be obtained by a combination of hydro-
genation and fractional distillation. And commercial stearic acids
with 97% stearic acid content are now available.
Stearic Acid obtained by Fractional Distillation

The fatty acids obtained after fat splitting may be separated into
compounds with different chain lengths by fractional distillation.
However, oleic and stearic having the same chain length are dis-
tilled at the same temperature and to obtain pure stearic acid first, a
solvent crystallization or a pan press method is necessary to get rid
of the oleic acid before fractional distillation.
With newer methods available for making commercial fatty acids
it was possible to obtain stearic acids of different stearic content.
Further, it was found in hand cream formulations that by substitut-
ing stearic acid with a different stearic content for the commercial
triple pressed stearic acid, the consistency of the cream varied. For
instance, reports of softening effects were recorded when high
purity stearic acid was used in place of the conventional triple pressed
stearic acid in the presence of nonionic emulsifiers.
Fatty Acids Esters

Fatty acids esters of low molecule weight have been popularly used
in hand creams and lotions. Butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, iso-
propyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate are some products be-
longing to this group. Their oily character and tow viscosity has
made them desirable agents in hand product formulations. They
leave a thin oily film on the skin which in nontacky or greasy. The
nature of the films being hydrophobic and continous makes them
good emollients. They are generally used at 2-10% concentrations
in hand products.
A.word of caution here regarding stearate type hand products:
the isopropyl esters are to be used judiciously because they have a
tendency to increase the gelation.
The polyol ester like glycetyl monostearate and propylene glycol
monostearate, ethylene monostearate and polyethylene glycol
monostearate, are emollients that have served in the development
of modem hand creams and lotions. Except polyethylene glycol
monostearate all the other agents produce a waxy, occlusive, wa-
ter-insoluble films. Polyethylene glycol esters are hydrophilic; hence
their films are not completely occlusive; however, they-are still sat-
isfactory emollients. In addition to being emollients, they are useful
emulsifiers and it is for this very purpose they are used in hand
product formulations.
Concentrations of glyceryl monostearate, propylene glycol
monostearate, and ethylene glycol monostearate have a direct bear-
ing on the viscosity of the emulsion. They are generally employed
in concentration of 0.5-5% and 1-10% in hand creams and lotions
respectively. The nature of polyethylene glycol esters is directly
linked with ethylene oxide chain lengths. The longer the chain the
more solid the product and also the more hydrophilic it becomes.
The higher alcohol esters of fatty acids, such as cetyl palmitate
(or Spermaceti Wax), are quite waxy in nature and are considered
excellent emollients. The occlusive waxy nature of these agents
limits them to acceptable concentrations of about 0.5-2% and upto
5% in hand lotions and creams respectively.
Fatty Alcohols
The fatty alcohols have been widely used in hand creams and lo-
tions. Cetyl and stearyl alcohols being the more favoured ones.
Lauryl and myristyl have also been in use in hand product formula-
tions but as a rule in combination with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol
or both.
As emollients cetyl and stearyl alcohols have been found lobe
very effective. Being hydrophobic they produce occlusive films that
help in inducing hydration of skin. Further, they have sufficiently
high melting points so as to deposit non-greasy films on the skin. A
combination of cetyl and stearyl at concentrations as low as 0.2%
of each are known to impart to the hands a smooth velvety feel.
To have an acceptable end product the concentration of cetyl
and stearyl alcohol have to be very cautiously worked out particu-
larly in soap systems, because the rate of occurrence of gelation is
directly related to their concentration.
BARRIER AGENTS
There has been a growing interest among the hand-product cus-
tomers ranging from a housewife to the garage mechanic who con-
stantly risk irritation in their daily routines, in a group of emollients
that in addition to promoting rehydration of the stratum corneum aid
in protecting the skin surface. These ingredients are called "barrier
agents.'
Protective hand creams and lotions have recently increased in
number and variety. There is a standing demand for such products,
which provide protection against domestic and industrial materials
that are likely to cause skin irritation.
A well-formulated barrier cream needs to fulfill the following
basic requirements.
1. Good consistency and ease of application.

2. Good and reasonably persistent adherence to the skin.
3. Ability to form a coherent, impervious, flexible, and
noncracking film.
4. Freedom from any tendency to irritate skin.
5. Ease of removal when desired.
6. Esthetic acceptability, from the point of comfort on appli-
cation, relative imperceptivity, etc.
It would be ideal if all the above features could be incorporated
into a single hand product. However, it would seem rather unlikely
to expect a single product to assume complete protection since
irritants vary considerably in physical and chemical properties.
Protective hand creams at present fall into two categories.
1. Water repellent.
2. Oil repellent.
The water repellent creams act as barriers to water and water-
soluble irritants. The oil-repellent protective products act as barri-
ers against oil and oil-soluble irritants.
There exist some products with a duel function. But they cannot
be considered universally protective. Nevertheless they represent
a step in that direction.
The advent of silicones offered a wide range of possibilities and
combinations with some other better known barrier agents in
formulating excellent protective hand creams and lotions.
Here is a list of cosmetic materials showing outstanding skin
protective or barriers properties.
Petrolatum, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, vegetable waxes,
beeswax, cajein, methlycellulose, sodium carboxymethylcel-
lulose, alginic acid salts and derivatives, zein, tragacanth, pec-
tin, quince seed gel, bentonite or veegum, zinc stearate, so-
dium silicate, talc, stearic acid, titanium dioxide, and silicones.
HEALING AGENTS
The need to include healing agents in hand creams and lotions has
been in the reckoning for along time. The reason for this being the
severe chapping of the hand leading to craking of the epidermis
which could be very painful. Actually, it may be considered as a
wound. Furthermore, the constant use of hands in the daily routine
could leave them bruised and scratched. Some hand products con-
tain agents that act as a skin healer and their function is to stimulate
the growth of healthy tissue. Two basic agents have been identified
as skin healers in urea and allantoin. These agents infact are chemi-
cally related, allantoin being a uric acid derivative.
Here are 5 basic attributes of aflantoin.
1. Allantoin effectively "digests" tissue to produce a "natu-
ral" cleaning up of necrotic material.
2. It is a remarkable cell proliferant and quickly stimulates the
development of healthy granulation tissue, thus reducing
healing time.
3. These actions are accomplished without pain; in fact, pain
frequently tends to be reduced, if not entirely relieved, when
allantoin is applied.
4. It may be employed in dilute solutions and, therefore, does
not dry out or cake, but remains in intimate contact with
affected tissues.
5. It may be applied in solution, emulsion, or ointment form
either alone or in combination with other therapeutic agents.
Therefore, the addition of 0.01 to 0.1% to various cosmetic
preparations, such as skin creams, tonics, lotions, soaps
and shaving preparations, would enhance their healing prop-
erties.
Urea has been used in hand products. It is found to be beneficial

when applied to infectious lesions. It is easily available and is non-
toxic.
However, from a formulation point of view it should be noted
that urea when used in its normal concentrations of 3-5% pre-
sented the problem of discoloration after a six-month ageing pe-
riod.
C
HUMECTANTS
Humectants are agents that control the moisture exchange between

the product and air, both in the container and on the skin. They have
perhaps found more extensive use in hand creams and lotions than
any other product. Even the earliest hand treatment product con-
tained a mixture of 50% humectant and 50% water. There are
many agents that possess the properties of a humectant; but only
three have been widely used in hand creams and lotions, glycerol,
propylene glycol and sorbitol. They are all organic compounds and
are similar in that they are all polyhydric alcohols. However, they
are different as far as molecular weight, viscosity and volatility are
concerned.
Table below compares their physical properties quantitatively.
mot. WI. Viscosity Volatility

1. Propylene glycol Lowest Lowest Highest
2. Glycerol In between In between In between
3. Sorbitol Highest Highest Non-volatile
Their behavioral patterns when used in hand creams and lotions

too were dissimilar.
The effects of these agents on the rate of loss of water (in weight)
in hand creams of 01W type were
1. In stearic acid soap-type hand creams, sorbitol in concen-
trations of 2 to 20% and at relative humidities of 30, 50, and
70%, retarded moisture loss more effectively than propy-
lene glycol and glycerol.
2. In nonionic-type hand creams, the difference between the
three humectants was less pronounced. They were all about
equally effective in inhibiting moisture loss, although at 30%
relative humidity and at 2, 5, 10, and 20% concentrations,
propylene glycol was more effective than either sorbitol or
glycerol.
During World War II when glycerin was scarce owing to its use
for the military, other humectants were selected and substituted.
However, it was found that the choice of humectants could not be

changed at will.
Here is a comparative study of effects of poiyois on emulsions.
1. The consistency of an oil-in-water hand cream was re-
lated to the polyol used in the following manner: (a) glyc-
erol produced creams having the hardest consistency; (b)
sorbitol produced creams of medium hardness; and (c) pro-
pylene glycol produced the softest creams.
2. The consistency of an oil-in-water, soap-type hand lotion
was related to the polyol used in the following manner;
(a) glycerol produced lotion with the best flow characteris-
tics; and (b) propylene glycol and sorbitol showed a ten-
dency toward gelation.
It was found that the reason for this dissimilarity in their behav-
ior could be attributed to the solubility of stearic acid in the various
polyols rather than to their hygroscopic nature.
Humectants apart from being used for their hygroscopicity and
emulsion consistency are excellent plasticizers. Infact the concen-
tration of a polyol in a system is determined by the amount of solids
that need to be plasticized. A cream or lotion properly plasticized
prevents "rolling" or in other words will apply smoothly and uni-
formly.
The ability of humectant to release water gradually is best seen
when the cream is supplied to the hands. The controlled loss of
water from the emulsion permits a smooth inversion and prevents
breaking of the emulsion which otherwise may result in an unac-
ceptable "watery" feel.
Glycerol , propylene glycol, and sorbitol have another added ad-
vantage in that they are generally innocuous and have no side ef-
fects.
Other agents that qualify as humectants in cosmetics include
polyethylene glycerols, mannitol, polyethylene sorbitols, and poly-
ethylene glycols.
The need for humectants is almost indispensable in hand crams
and lotions. However, its choice will depend on a number of factors
some of which have been discussed.
EMULSIFIERS
The increasing knowledge about emulsifiers, which have made pos-
sible a successful union of water and oil, has been greatly influencial
in enhancing the cosmetic elegance of hand products.
The emulsifiers used in hand creams and lotions are categorized
into three types
1. Anionic,
2. Cationic, and
3. Nonionic
In this section we shall concern ourselves to know about out-
standing emulsifiers used in hand creams and lotions and a brief
description of their behavior in these products.
Anionics
This group of emulsifiers is widely used in the formulation of hand
creams and lotions and account for about 75% of the hand prod-
ucts available in the market. Some examples of anionic emulsifiers
are shown in the table below.
Anionic Emulsifiers
flye Enunpk's
Fatty acid soaps Potassium steatite
Sodium slearate
Ammonium stcarate
Triethanolmine stearate
Polyol fatty acid monoescers Glyceryl monostcarate containing
containing fatty acid soaps either Potassium or Sodium soap
Sulphuric ester (Sodium salts) Sodium lauryl suphfate
Sodium ectyt sulphate
Polyol fatty acid nionosiers Glyceryl monoslearate containing
containing sulphuric esters Sodium lauryl sulphate.
The fatty acid soaps and sodium salts of sulfuric esters are
strongly hydrophilic and will tend to produce 01W emulsions.
The polyoi fatty acid Jionoester soaps are only slightly hydro-
phobic and will tend to produce dual emulsions. The most com-
monly used fatty acid soap in hand lotion is triethanolamine stearate
in concentrations ranging from 0.5-3%. Fatty acid soaps are known
to produce stable emulsions but on standing they tend to thicken
and finally gel. This is a common feature seen in commercial hand
lotions. Fatty alcohols and polyol fatty esters have even a greater
tendency than fatty acid soaps and therefore caution is necessary
when combining the two in formulation. Small quantities of sulphuric
esters such as sodium lauryl sulphate prevents gel formation. Also
an increase in the quantity of mineral oil (10-20%) and of polyols
has a retarding effect on this gel formation.
In hand creams formulations that use only one emulsifier in so-
dium stearate, the cream produced is very hard initially. However,
on standing it becomes softer and eventually "soapy". The reason
for this being the insoluble nature of sodium stearate used in small
proportions or in conjunction with more soluble stearates. Ammo-
nium stearate and amine salts of fatty acids generally produce white
creams, which tend to discolour towards yellow upon ageing. This
is "Catalyzed" by the presence of trace metals, especially iron.
This tendency to discolour is also partially attributed to emulsifi-
cation temperatures. Hence it is suggested that creams containing
ammonium stearate or other amine salts, as emulsifiers should be
produced at the lowest possible temperature.
Cationics
This group of emulsifiers has not been so widely used in hand creams
and lotions. However, lately, these agents have found use in the
production of presumably unique hand cosmetics. The use of
cationics in hand creams can be summarized as
I. Being substantive to protein at an acid pH.
2. Instrumental in producing emulsions with an acid pH.
3. Being germicidal when not inactivated by anionic or other
incompatible materials.
The cationics generally used in hand creams and lotions are listed
below.
1. N (stearoyl colamnio formylmethyl) pyridinium chloride.
2. N-soya-methyl morpholinium ethosulphate.
3. Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.
4. (Diisobutyl phenoxy ethoxy) ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammo-
nium chloride.
5. Cetyl pyridinium chloride.
Emulsions produced by cationic emulsifiers are quite stable and
show least tendency to gel. On the contrary they tend to thin out
with age. A small amount of polyol fatty acid ester such as glyceryl
monostearate helps to prevent this problem.
Cationic systems show novel possibilities in hand creams and
lotions.
Nonionics
One basic difference between nonionic emulsifiers and the other
two cationic and anionic is that the former shows no tendency to
ionize. This property makes them compatible with other nonionics
as well as electrolytes even in high concentration.
The reasons for using nonionics as emulsifiers in hand creams
and lotions are
I. In hand creams, nonionic emulsifiers do not tend to pro-
duce a surface crust.
2. Oil-in-water hand creams made with nonionic emulsifiers
show the least amount of shrinkage due to water evapora-
tion.
3. Hand lotions and creams containing nonionic emulsifiers
are extremely resistant to freezing.
4. Germicidal agents of the cationic type can be incorporated
into hand creams and lotions without fear of incompatibil-
ity.
5. Acid, neutral, or alkaline hand creams and lotions can be
readily formulated with nonionics.
Some of the nonionic emulsifiers used in hand creams and lotions

are
Type Examples
Polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ethers polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol.
Polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters polyoxyethylene stearate.
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid polyoxyethylene sorbitan
esters mo no s te a rate
Sorbitan fatty acid esters sorbitan monostearate.
Polyoxycthylene glycol fatty acid polyoxyethylene glycol mono
esters and distearate
Polyol fatty acid esters Glyceryl monostearate
propylene glycol monostearate.
The use of nonionic emulsifiers in hand creams and lotions in-

volves two fundamental facts.
1. A strongly hydrophobic ester must be used to emulsify the
stearic acid or their oil or wax material. Outstanding ex-
amples of such agents are polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty
acid esters, such as sorbitan monostearate or the
polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, such as
polyoxyethylene glycol 1000 monostearate.
2. A slightly hydrophobic ester or lipophilic ester must be used
in the same system in order to insure consistency of the
end product. Examples of these nonionic can be found
among the sorbitan fatty acid esters, the polyol fatty acid
esters, and even the low molecular weight polyoxyethylene
glycol fatty acid esters.
The proportions of each of these two types of emulsifiers varies
.considerably from about 1-10% of each in hand creams and 0.5-
3% of each type in hand lotions. Although it must be noted in creams
the concentrations of the two emulsifiers fall between 1-5%.
Apart from the emulsifiers discussed, there is another class of
emulsifiers that has been used in hand products. They are repre-
sented by natural gums like (tragacanth and the alginates), the cel-
lulose gums (e.g. methylcellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellu-
lose), the clays (e.g. bentonite and veegum), and the synthetic poly-
mers (e.g. polyvinyl alcohol) which produced hydrophobic protec-
tive colloids. Although these agents have emulsifying properties,
they are not primarily emulsifiers but fill in the role of emulsion and
suspension stabilizers. They also serve as aqueous phase thicken-
ers. When calculated on a dry basis, they were usually used in
proportions under 1% in hand creams and lotions. These colloids
were prepared as aqueous solutions or dispersions just before pro-
duction since sufficient time is needed for their hydration.
PRESERVATIVES
Hand creams and lotions contain water and other ingredients, which
are susceptible to attack by microorganisms. Hence the absolute
necessity for a good preservative. The following are the properties
for a good preservative.
1. It must be effective against all types of microorganisms
causing decomposition.
2. It must be soluble internally or externally.
3. It must not be toxic internally or externally.
4. It must be compatible; must not alter the character of
the preparation as far as objectionable odour, colour, taste,
and other properties are concerned; and must be practi-
cally netural so that it will not alter the pH of the prepara-
tion.
5. Its cost should not increase the price of the preparation to
any marked extent.
6. Its inhibiting effect must be lasting; therefore it may not be
possible to depend on volatile substances, the effects of
which disappear after evaporation.
Over the years many preservatives have been tried but have
been discarded for one reason or the other. For example, benzoic
acid, sodium benzoate, and sodium propionate have been success-
ful in acid medium only; therefore they are of no use in creams and
lotions that are slightly alkine in nature. Salicylic acid was consid-
ered, but discarded because of its skin irritation potential. However,
the most ideal preservatives were found to be the esters of

hydroxybenzoic acid. They were reported to have been 2-3 times
more effective than benzoic acid in preventing bacterial growth.
The methyl, propyl, and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid are
generally used in hand creams and lotions preferably in combina-
tion with an other.
The most commonly used esters in hand creams and lotions are
the methyl, propyl and butyl. A concentration of 0.1-0.2% methyl
p-hydroxybenzoate is sufficient in hand lotions. If cholesterol or
lecithins are found in appreciable quantities in the oil phase an addi-
tional 0.05% of propyl p-hydroxybenzoate can be added to this
phase.
In hand creams where the oil content is generally high-0.05 to
0.25% of the methyl ester in the water phase and 0.05% of the
propyl ester or butyl ester in the oil phase—are suggested.
Method of Incorporation of Preservative

The methyl ester is added in the water phase heated to 60°C with
constant stirring during heating.
The propyl ester or butyl ester is added to the oil phase with
constant stirring during heating.
These agents have shown most satisfactory results as preserva-
tives in hand creams and lotions and their activity may be summa-
rized as follows.
1. Antimicrobial studies show that the methyl, ethyl, propyl,
and butyl esters are effective in low concentrations against
fungi and grampositive bacteria, but less effective in gram-
negative bacteria.
2. The esters are more fungistatic than fungicidal
3. Their effect is additive, suggesting the use of combinations
to achieve higher concentration in water.
4. They are substantially equally effective against microor-
ganism in acid or netural solutions in the pH range of 4 to 8,
Perfumes
The choice of a perfume for hand creams and lotions is purely

based on aesthetic value. The odour of perfume is one of the im-
portant factors in the overall acceptance of a hand product but one
must not forget the importance of the compatibility of perfume oil
with the emulsion besides ensuring that it is not a skin-irritant or
sensitizer.
It must be noted that many essential oils, synthetic aromatic
chemicals, and other perfume materials possess surfactant proper-
ties and can easily interfere with the performance of the basic
emulsifiers. It was found that terpineol, hydmxycintronella, geraniol,
eugenol, methyl eugenol, and phenyl acetaldehyde could severely
effect the stability of emulsions with cationic or anionic emulsifiers.
The effect of the perfume varies depending on the concentration
and the emulsion system employed.
Study of the effects of perfume materials on the stability of cos-
metic emulsions, specifically of certain perfume agents on several
types of hand lotion system yielded the following results.
I. Synthetic aromatics: Terpineol extra, phenylethyl alco-
hol, geraniol pure, hydroxycitronella, and amylcinnamic al-
dehyde.
2. Essential oils: Rose de ,nai absolute, geranium bourbon,
and lavender (50% ester content).
3. Compound perfume oils: A "medium" bouquet a lilac
type, a light floral type, and two of a rose character.
The four hand lotion systems evaluated by us gave the following

results:
I. Triethanolamine stearate emulsion: Of all the
ingredients tested, terpineol was the only one to'àause
separation of this type of emulsion.
2. Amino glycol emulsion: A rose perfume composition in
a 1% concentration caused this emulsion to separate.
3. Potassium stearate—quince seed mucilage emulsion:
Geranium caused separation in all concentrations from 0.25
to 1 percent. Terpineol extra caused separation in the 0.5%

and 1% concentrations. Alight floral bouquet caused separa
tion only in the 1% concentration.
4. Sorbitan monostearate—polyoxyethylene sorbitan
monolaurate emulsion: None of the materials tested
affected the stability of this emulsion.
In stearate type creams, perfume ingredients like indole, methyl

anthranilate, eugenol, ethyl vanillin, etc. to name a few, must be
avoided because the pH is usually alkaline and discolourati6n oc-
curs.
The difficulties encountered with perfume oils in hand creams
and lotions cannot be seen until the product is stored for some time.
Hence it is imperative to select the perfume wisely and conduct
rapid ageing shelf-tests.
Another problem that manifests almost instantly is associated
with the allergic hypersensitivity for which the standard patch test
should be employed using the product on a large section of people.
COLOURING AGENTS
Colour is a psychological aspect of a product; people tend to accept
or reject the same product when tinted with colour or left uncoloured.
Hand creams and lotions are usually left uncoloured although
a recent survey indicates that hand products in shades of pink and
blue are more acceptable than those that are white and uncoloured.
The selection of colour by the formulator demands two aspects:
one the psychological safety, and the other its compatibility with the
product. In USA the psychological safety is simplified by i 1estric-
tion on use of coal tar colours only.
The more realistic problem is one concerning the compatibility
of colour with the product. It is related to factors such as pH, solu-
bility, and stability in the presence of light, metallic ions and oxidising
and reducing agents.
Most hand creams and lotions being 0/W emulsions, water-soluble
colours should be used to tint the water, which is the external phase.
In case of W/O emulsions, oil soluble colours are in use. Some-
times it may be advantageous to tint both phases of an emulsion in

which case both water and oil soluble colours are employed in the
same product.
The pH level of most hand creams and lotions lies between 5
and 8. Some of the later cationic systems are strongly acid, with pH
2. Some colours are stable in acid media but are very unstable in
alkaline media. D&C Red No.20 is one such example. It is
precipitated out of solution in alkaline media. The reverse is also
possible. D&C Red No.23 is stable in alkaline conditions but tends
to precipitate and also discolour towards yellow shade.
Some cations with high molecular weight react with anionic
colours resulting in insoluble complexes, which precipitate in the
presence of cations.
Hand lotions that are packed in clear glass bottles tend to fade
on exposure to sunlight. Hence fastness to light is an important
factor to be considered in colouring agents.
Some perfume oils contain reducing agents that cause the fading
of hand product. This is observed with a number of red and blue
certified colours. In the presence of reducing agent, and more so in
alkaline media they will revert to their respective leuco form.
Some certified colours with good over all stability in hand creams
and lotions are
RED (PINK): FD&C Red No. 1, FD&C Red No. 2, D&C
Red No. 5, D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 33.
BLUE: FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Blue No. 4, Ext D&C
Blue No. I, Ext D&C Blue No. 2, Ext D&C Blue No. 4.
Formulation and Manufacture

The formulation of hand creams and 19ions depends on the pur-
pose it is meant for. For example the forthulator could ekpect to
exhibit the following features
I. Should soften the hands.
2. Should apply easily and quickly. .
3. Should not leave a tacky film.
4. Should not interface with normal hand perspiration.
5. Should be antiseptic.
6. Should have a pleasant smell.
7. Should have a stable and appealing colour.
Keeping the above objectives in mind, he may also consider the
points hereunder.
1. One or more emollients can be used for softening of the
skin.
2. A vanishing cream base will accomplish the second
objective. The use of alcohol might assist in imparting the
apparent "vanishing" quality to a hand lotion formula.
3. The careful selection and proper combination of the
waxes, oils and humectants will control the amount of
tackiness developed by creams and lotions.
4. Thejudicious choice of the solid ingredients will aid in the
prevention of excessive occlusion the fourth objective.
5. The choice of the antiseptic might well determine whether
the emulsifier should be anionic, cationic or nonionic
emulsifier.
6. The selection of pleasant perfume oil that is compatible
with the emulsion and does not overpower the fragrance
worn by the user will solve the sixth objective.
7. Choosing a stable colour will involve the consideration of
such factors as pH, presence of reducing compounds, ef
fects of light and type of emulsion.
By examining and discussing some typical formulas hereunder,
the importance of practical consideration associated with both for-
mulation and manufacture can be exposed to the reader.
The rate, te and type of stirring also play an important role in
the stability and consistency of the cream. Hand cream systems, in
general, are thixotropic. Therefore, excessive and vigorous shear-
ing action reduces the viscosity beyond acceptable levels. Often
the effect of prolonged and vigorous agitation means an irrevers-
ibly low viscosity.
Prolonged stirring results due to inefficient cooling. In summer
when the cooling water is warm the cooling cycle automatically
increases. This means it will take a longer time to arrive at finished

filling temperature. Hence, to ensure smooth production, the cool-
ing cycle must be established and maintained with the help of a
refrigeration unit to keep the water at a constant temperature at all
times. On occasion this type of stirring presents a different prob-
lem. For example, if the stiffer does not sweep the walls of the
container clean of the solid deposits, a layer is formed which acts
as an insulating medium thereby preventing efficient cooling. This
cold solid mass also produces a grainy effect in the finished product
when it is finally distributed throughout the cream. A sidewall scraper
will effectively correct both these situations.
Formulas for Hand Creams

Part A
Cetylalcohol 2% 10% -
Glyceryl
monostearate pure 10% -
Isopropyl myristate — — — — — 3%
Isopropyl palmitate 1% 3% -
Lanolin I 1% -- 2 -
Mineral oil 2
Polyethylene glycol
1000 monostearate 5 -
Polyethylene sorbitàn -
monostearate 1.5 -
Propyl paraben 0.05
Sodium cetyl sulphate 2 -
Sorbitan monostearate 2 -
Stearic acid lt 16 8 IS 20 17
Stearyl alcohol 3 -
Stearyl colamino
formyl methyl
pyridinium chloride 1.5 -
54 • Textboqk of Cosmetics
Part B
Glycerol 12 - 8 - - IS 10
Lauryt colamino. •. -
lormyl methyl
pyridinium chloride - - - -. - 5
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.1 0,1
Polyethylene glycol 300 -
monostearate
Propylene glycol - 10
Potassium hydroxide I 0.6
Quince seed mulcage - 25
(2% solution)
Sodium lauryl sulphate - - I - - - -
Sothitol ' - - - 3.5 3 - -
Triethanolamine - 0.3
Water 68.85 46.9 67.9 76.9 68.85 71.4 64.9
Part A
Cetyl alcohol 0,5% 0.5% 1.5%

Glyceryl monostearate 1% 4% 1% -
Isopropyl palmitate 4 3 -
Lanolin 1% I -
Lanolin absorption base I -
Mineral oil -- ----3
Polyethylene glycol 400 --
distearate 2 -
Propylene glycol
monostearate 4 -
Nimlesterol or Amerchol
L- 101 7 -
Stearic acid 3 5 1.5 - - 2
Part B
Glycerol 2 2 10 3 - 5 7
Methyl paraben 0.1 0.1 0,1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
N (lauroyl colamino
formyl methyl
pyridiniOm chloride) - -----1.5
Propylene glycol - - - - 3 - -
Sodium alginate - 0.3
Sodium cetyl sulphate - - 5 - - - -
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Stearyl colamino formyl
methyl pyridinium
chloride
Triethanolamine 0,75 0.5
Water 93.65 86.6 77.9 89.4 84.9 88.4 84.9
Part C
Ethyl alcohol - 5
Colour q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
Creams and Lotions

Emollients are materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness
as well as for the protection of the skin from a biochemical view-
point.
Part A
Arlacel 60 3.0% -
T\veen 60 4,0 -
Atlas G-1702 - 5.0%
Atlas C- 1726. - 5.0
Bees wax 5.0 5.0

Lanolin - 3.0
Hydrogenated vegetable oil 17.5 25.0
Light mineral oil 26.0 20.0
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15
Antioxidant 0.05 0.05
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15

Sorbitol 5.0 -
Citric acid 0.1 -
Water 38.8 36,4
Perfume 0.25 0,25
Part A
Bees wax 3.0% -

Spermaceti 3.0 -
Light mineral oil 30.0 -
Glyceryl monostearate pure 12.0 4.5%
Lanolin - 1.0
Isopropyl myristate - 4.3
Polyethylene glycol 1000
monostearate - 6.0
Stearic acid - 7.2
Propyl paraben 0.15 0,15
Pad B

Glycerol 8.0 -
Propylene glycol - 2.5
Water 43.4 74.0
Perfume 0.3 0.2
Part A
Lanolin 1.0% 1.0%

Arlacel 83 2.0
Paraffin 10.0
Petrolatum 35.0
Atlas 0-1425 4.0 5,0
Atlas 0-1441 1.0
Bees wax 2.0
Stearic acid 15.0
Part B

Sorbitol 2.5 10.0
Water 29.9 50.3
Perfume 0.3 0.4
Formulas for emollient creams, nonionic w/o type

Part A
Glyceryl monostearate pure 5.0% 10.0%

Petrolatum 5.0 10.0
Light mineral oil 5.0 25.0% 10.0
Micro crystalline wax MY 79.5°C 10.0 5.0
Amerchol L-l01 15.0 10.0
Lanolin 10.0
Lanolin absorption base 15.0
Bees wax 15.0
Propyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 015

Water 59.4 49.4 39.4
Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3
Pan A
Peanut oil 8.0%

Protegin X 26.0
Spermaceti 5.0 5.0%
Lanolin 5,0 5.0
Cetyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 1.0%
Glyceryl monostearate pure 1.0 10.0
Light mineral oil 5.0 30.0 23.0
Alcotec DS 2.0
Bees wax 7.0
Alcolan absorption base 27.0
Antioxidant 0.15
Part B
Methyl parahen 0.15 0.15 0.15

Glycerol 3.0
Water 44.2 45.4 41.4
Perfume 0.35 0.3 0.3
Part A
II
Peanut oil 10.0%
Petrolatum 3.0
Spermaceti 4.0 5.0%
Bees wax 12.0 12.0
Lariogene 6.0

Antioxidant 0,15 -
Part B

Borax 0.7 0.7
Water 46.6 48.7
Perfume 0.25 0.3
All Purpose Creams

These are generally based on a typical cold cream formula. They
contain stearic acid, humectant, and lanolin. By replacing part of
the oil phase with stearie acid oiliness of the cream is reduced.
Lanolin and humectant are emollients. Since they are not so oily
they can be used in most cases where a vanishing cream is nor-
mally used.
Formula for all purpose cream olw nonionic type
Pad A
11 III
Twcen85 1.0% - -
Arlacel 85 1.0 - -
Twccn 40 - 8.0% -
Atlas C 1705 - 2.0 -
Atlas C 1425 - - 5.0%
Atlas C 1441 - - 1.0
Beeswax 2.0 2.0 2.0
Lanolin 4.0 4.0 1.0
Stearic acid 15.0 10.0 15.0
Light mineral oil 23.0 20.0 23.0
Part B
Methyl paraben 015 0.15 0.15

Sorbitol 12.2 12.0 10.0
Water 41.2 41.4 42.4
Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3
Formula lisa thixotropic type of cream. Emollient ingredients

like lanolin, or its derivatives, cetyl alcohol, spermaceti, and cocoa
butter can be added to leave an emollient oily film on the skin.
Therapeutic Creams
The set of formulations discussed here may be used as basic prepa-
rations on which one may choose to add active therapeutic agents.
The chemical nature of the particular ingredients must be consid-
ered in relation to its compatibility with certain emulsifier types. A
water-soluble antihistamine hydrochloride for example is cationic
in behavior and would therefore be incompatible with anionic emul-
sifiers. Either olw or w/o emulsion may be used, depending upon
the temperature effects preferred on the skin.
Once the cream has been brought down to filling temperature,
the problem of transfer to the filling hopper arises. The cream is
either pumped or moved by gravity. The latter is preferred because
any shear action due to pumping can be avoided lest it has an ad-
verse effect on the consistency of the cream. The type of filling
unit used is also important. Piston filler is preferred over the gear
type because the former exerts less of a breaking action on the
structure of the creams.
Problems do not just end with manufacturing. Storage too pre-
sents its share of problems. Hand creams stored in a warm place
could have the following effects.
1. White creams tend to turn off-white in colour (towards
yellow).
2. Stearate creams are likely to develop a pearly shean,
which may not be desirable.
3. The consistency may become soft; it depends of course on

the temperature and time of exposure. This may not be
reversible.
Storage in cold places has its problem as well. At temperature
ranging from 5-15°C syneresis occurs. In other words, with the
shrinking of the gel structure and forcing out of the aqueous phase
which appears in the form of droplets on the surface of the cream
and as a continuous film on the inside walls of the jar. The phenom-
enon is common in colloidal systems and in hand creams most com-
mon in the soap type. Nonionic emulsifiers as adjuvants will help in
reducing such an occurrence.
Hand lotions are quite similar to hand creams, only differing sub-
stantially in the total solids proportion. Formulas 8 to 14 are ex-
amples of hand lotions.
Acidic Cleansing Cream

Normal human beauty skin is covered with an acid layer pH 3-5.
But pH 5-6 is more desirable to protect the skin from bacterial
infections. But a sick person may not have this pH and also those
who use excessive soap. In the alkaline pH, the skin is more sus-
ceptible for attack by pathogens.
Hence, acidic cleaning creams appeared in the market.
A typical example of such a cream is
Wool wax 2.0%

Anhydrous lanolin 9.0
Stearyl alcohol 2.0
Petrolatum 35.0
Bees wax 2
Glycerol 4
Lactic acid 1.5
Water 44.5
Procedure
All the waxy materials are melted at 55°C. Aqueous phase con-
taming water, lactic acid and glycerol is also heated to 57°C and
both the phases mixed and stirred till the temperature is cooled to
45°C, when perfume is added and passed through a colloid mill and,
stored for packing.
Detergent Cleansing Creams or Soap Creams

Lard 20%
Coconut oil 12
Potassium hydroxide 12
Bitter almond oil 3.5
Perfume geranium 5
Aqua q.s
Procedure
All the waxes are melted at 40°C. The alkalis are dissolved in wa-
ter and added to the molten waxes. Stirring is continued till solidi-
fied mass is obtained
Polyethylene glycol 400 monosterate 10.0%
Stearic acid 16.0
Potrassium hydroxide 0.8
Glycerol 5,0
Water 67.5
Preservative 0.2
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Heat the aqueous phase with allied ingredients and add to the mol-
ten waxes phase and continue stirring till the mass solidifies.
Antibacterial Creams
After the natural and synthetic, soap creams, antibacterial creams
appeared in the market. With hexachlorophene as the antibacterial
compound mostly.
Formula
Beeswax 9%
Paraffin 10
Mineral oil 65 ps 30
Cetyl alcohol I
Deity! extra 10
Hexachlorophene 05
Borax I
Water 38
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the hexachlorophene in the deltyl extra. All the waxy
materials are melted in a bath at 70°C. Borax and water are also
heated and mixed with molten wax phase or stirred till the tempera-
ture drops to 50°C when the perfume is added and stored for pack-
ing.
Hand Lotions
The one major difference in formulating hand lotions and hand
creams is the maintenance of the lotion in a stable fluid state or
flow characteristic. This fluidity of hand lotions must be kept within
certain acceptable limits. If the viscosity is very low, the lotion liter-
ally "runs" out of the bottle, which is out of acceptable limits. It is
equally considered out of acceptable limits if the lotion exhibits gel-
ling tendencies, which make it difficult to pour from a bottle. The
problem of developing hand lotions with ideal viscosity is not an
easy one. It becomes even more difficult to predict the viscosity
pattern of a lotion, at the time of formulation over the shelf life
period (about 2 years). In fact there does not exist a method to
determine the viscosity of an emulsion in advance at any given time
in the future. However, it is only through experience, excessive
gelation or low viscosity can be prevented.
The problem of gelation occurs mainly in stearate type lotions.
64 • Textbook at Cosmetics
Furthermore, excessive mechanical action of these type of lotions

leads to low viscosity because they are sensitive to shear action. A
stearate type lotion though thin in viscosity initially does not neces-
sarily remain so. As a rule the viscosity increase with time. Of
course temperature fluctuations also have a direct effect on vis-
cosity. Shelf life studies at prevailing room temperature show thvt
viscosity of stearate type hand lotions tends to thicken with time.
Therefore, steps need to be taken to prevent gelation during the
shelf-life of the hand lotion and by observing the following precau-
tions it could be prevented or atleast retarded.
1. Avoid excess amounts of polyol fatty esters, like glyceryl
monostearate, or fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol. The
quantity considered excessive varies with each system;
generally for a stearate type lotion 0.5% is just about right.
In this type of hand lotions containing ethyl alcohol, 1%
cetyl alcohol can be in excess.
2. The dispersed wax phase can be plastisized with high
concentrations (10%) of mineral oil.
3. Small amounts of an alkyl sulphate (0.1-0.5%) such as
sodium laut-yl sulphate can be incorporated into the for-
mula.
The nonionic and cationic types of hand lotions too show tenden-
cies to gel. Proper balancing of emulsifiers, and lipophilic fatty acid
esters and fatty alcohols in the formulation usually prevents gela-
tion.
Hand lotions with low initial viscosity for a period of say about 4
weeks can be problematic because they may be too thin to accept
when they reach the consumer. This is attributed to the thixotropic
nature of the stearate gels. The term thixotropic has created some
misconceptions in connection with emulsions. Originally it was used
to describe a reversible isothermal gelsol gel transformation; or in
other words it applied to those gels that break down on being shaken
and reset on standing. In the present context however, it refers to
the property of reversible alteration in flow characteristics when
work is performed on them, the alteration here being: the greater
the fluidity with increased agitation or shearing action. Armed with
this understanding of thixotropy and knowledge of stearate gels, it

is clear that the low initial viscosity is directly related to time, rate,
and type of stirring.
In practice to reduce the time of shearing action on the lotion,
the following steps may be taken.
Cool rapidly to a temperature 5-10°C below the gel point of
the system.
The manufacturing procedure for hand lotions and creams
basically involves the same operations. The oil phase is heated
and added to the water phase. The order, rate and tempera-
ture of the addition are important for the stability of the emul-
sion, hence it must be established and maintained. A light stir-
rer is used for mixing in hand lotions, and when sufficient
emulsifying agents are used, this agitation by a propellar yields
a finer particle size than homogenization or milling. A rheostat
is used to control the speed of stirring to avoid a vortex and
the possibility of entrapping air.
As we have already seen the rate of cooling has to be very
efficient in order to avoid excessive stirring, which leads to
thinning of the emulsion. Perfume and alcohol should be in-
corporated at a temperature below 50°C.
The filling temperature of hand lotions differs from system to
system depending on their viscosity characteristics. Usually it
is about 25-30°C. However, the lotion is left to stand over-
night at room temperature are slightly above to allow entrapped
air to surface. The filling is done by gravity and a mild vacuum
fill may be employed to avoid foam formation.
Recommended Equipment
Stainless steel equipment should be used in the manufacture of
hand creams and lotions, glass lined tanks can be used but use of
copper, tin, and iron should be avoided.
CONCLUSION
For a long time chemists have been haunted by two questions

1. How can the physical gelation tendencies of a hand lotion
be evaluated so that one can predict whether or not the
product will gel during its shelf life?
2. How can physical properties of ahand cream be evaluated
so that one can predict its consistency pattern over its nor-
mal shelf life?
The answer to the first question has been sought in the colloidal
phenomenon known as rheopexy (causing a thixotropic system to
gel by regular movements, such as tapping). So far, the efforts
have proven unsuccessful. The answer to the second has eluded
even the outstanding colloid and physical chemists.
The ageing hands pose a natural problem and more attention. As
far as progress in hand treatment is concerned, the search for a
universal protective hand product should be encouraged. Presently
very little has been done in this field.
Perhaps for a complete answer, the study of the basic physi-
ological and chemical changes which occur in the skin during age-
ing need to be followed.
3
Shaving Cream
Shaving Soaps and Creams

HAVING SOAPS WERE first made in USA about 125 years ago. It
S was an improvised home made potash soap which was pre-
pared by saponification of kitchen fats with crude potash made
from wood ash and quick lime. Caustic soda was found to be a
necessity to obtain a solid cake soap.
Theoretically, solid shaving soaps and lather creams are some-
what similar products. They differ only in physical appearance and
forms. The brushless shaving cream however differs considerably
from the above two solid preparationsAl ill . T
A shaving cream, in any form should cbñf&rn to certain specifi-

cations in order to make shaving a comfort. rv-
1.The shaving cream must be nonirritating to the face and
must retain its moisture as long as it is on the face.
2. It must soften the beard sufficiently SO' that the razor cuts
readily.
3. The shaving preparations must provide lubricity so that the
razor glides smoothly on the face and should be of suffi-
cient viscosity to hold each hair erect.
4. Further, the product should remain stable over a wide tem-
perature range.
5. It should be noncorrosive and non-rusting and should be

able to be washed down the drain without clogging.
6. If it is a brush shaving cream, it must be able to develop a
high lather very rapidly.
Brushless Shaving Cream
The function of soap and lather cream as shaving aids is by rapidly

softening the beard. However, it is not true of brushless shaving
cream which acts more slowly. In other words it has relatively
lesser and considerably slower beard softening qualities. The pri-
mary objective of a brushless shaving cream is to keep the whis-
kers in a moist condition during the shaving and provide lubrication
for. Most of the beard softening effect is actually obtained by
preshave treatment with soap and water. Hence certain adjust-
ments are needed in the formulation. For example brushless shav-
ing creams need to contain wetting agents rather than lathering
agents. On the other hand it is necessary for the lather cream to
have a higher pH (about 10) than the brushless (about 8) because a
higher pH is conducive to more effective hair softening.
Solid Shaving Preparations

For the manufacture of bar shaving soap, potassium hydroxide must
be of highest purity relatively free from iron and sulphates and low
in potassium chloride. In the manufacture of any solid shaving soap
perfume is incorporated during the milling process. In order to in-
crease whiteness some titanium dioxide is suggested of the order
of about 0.2%.
Formula 1 Bar Cake Shaving Soap
Toilet soap form kettle 50.00%

Coconut Oil, Manila 5.00
Scearicacid 10.00
Tallow prime 20.00
Caustic soda, Sp. Cr. 1.5 2.30
Shaving Cream • 69
Caustic potash, Sp. Gr. 1.5 10.00

Antioxidant 0.05
Water 2.65
The solid shaving soap may be manufactured in several ways.
1. To the mixture of tallow and coconut oil soaps, a certain

amount of potash is added. It can entirely be made in a
soap cnjtcher using a mixture of sodium and potassium
hydroxide. This method leaves all the glycerol from the
fats used in the finished cake, resulting in a slimy or sticky
feel. Glycerol (upto about 10%) improves the lather and
has an emollient feel on the face.
2. To add to kettle made boiled soda soap potassium stearate
in the crutcher. This method leaves the soap free of glyc-
erol, which is ratherbrittle and prone to crumble.
3. To saponify the requisite amount of tallow with potassium
hydroxide in the crutcher, add kettle made sodium soap to
it and neutralize the excess alkali with stearic acid.
Lather Shaving Cream

From a manufacturer's point of view the lather shaving cream is
one of the most difficult toilet articles to make, considering particu-
larly its stability in hot and cold weather conditions. Even changes
in source of raw materials that are analytically identical in the labo-
ratory, but differ in some slight respect, may cause difficulties in
manufacture or storage. Essentially a lather cream may be consid-
ered similar to a shaving bar soap except for the consistency. The
lather cream apart from presenting similar problems of a bar shav-
ing soap has one additional one that of viscosity stability. In short, a
lather shaving cream may be described as a solution of soap in
glycerol and water, in which excess soap may be dispersed. The
content of potassium chloride must be kept to a minimum because
of its ionic effect on the physical properties. Borax is another valu-
able ingredient but it must be carefully formulated for the same
reason as potassium chloride. The most desirable shaving cream is
one which does not change its viscosity even in wide range of tern-
peratures. It is particulatly for this reason the salts and the other
ingredients have to be very carefully selected.
Choice of [Elettroiytes
The choice-of .electrolytes like chlorides is a tricky one because of
(heir corrosive effect on The metal tube. However, they can be
countered by corrosion inhibitors. Extensive shelf life tests are
needed over awide rangeof temperatures while selecting the elec-
trdlite and'the'm.etal ipadkaging.
Stearic acid
Yet another very important ingredient for lather cream is stearic
acid. There are 3 'grades of this material commonly sold; single-
pressed, double4pressed and triple-pressed. Normally a double-
pressed stearic acid is preferred in order to obtain a white lather
cream. A qualitative 'test to find out whether the stearic acid is
suitable is to add an excess of strong potassium hydroxide solution
to a small sample of 'melted stearic acid. The soap formed should
not be brown or yellow. The odour of stearic acid is another impor-
tant aspect. A poor grade stearic acid easily develops rancidity and
could spoil the entire batch.
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine should be avoided in lather cream, because it often
causes discolouration upon ageing. Further, there are no advan-
tages to be gained from its use.
Coconut Oil
A fraction of the acids derived from coconut oil is necessary in a
shaving cream, the sodium or potassium soaps made from coconut
oils are very soluble in water and lather very freely. The lather is
large bubbled, thin and breaks down readily. Use of specially de-
odorized oil is recommended in order to avoid odour.
Oleates
.Oleates are generally present in lather creams as well as shaving
soaps. Coconut oil itself will provide sufficient oleates for most
formulations. However, the oleates have a desirable and undesir-
able property for a shaving cream. They are free-lathering, non-
irritating, and tend to keep the lather moist. But if in excess, they
will make the cream stringy and have a tendency to go rancid.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids which are relatively more unsaturated than oleic acid
should not be present in significant amounts because their soaps
tend to become rancid.
Lather Characteristics
Acid Lather from Sodium soap Lather from Porassiuin soap

Stearic Almost non-existent; soap Slimy dense, not copious
very soluble
PalmiLic Poor Dense but not copious
Myristic Not copious Very good, copious
Laurie Large bubbles, copious Very light, unstable
Oleic Readily formed, stringy Very readily formed not stable
Manufactures over the years have been striving to improve the

lather of shaving creams, softening (of the beard) quality and mois-
ture retention to make the face feel better.
Mostly superfatting agents have been used because of their two-
fold purpose. One to neutralize excess alkali and second to stabilize
the foam by retaining the moisture. For the last mentioned purpose,
glycerol, lanolin, and its derivatives, and carbowaxes are very use-
ful. Lanolin is widely used in modern shaving creams as a
superfatting agent because apart from being a superfatting agent it
is an effective emollient. But lanolin and its derivatives, used in
quantities in excess of 1-2%, will interfere in lathering properties
and create difficulties in perfuming the cream. Other superfatting
agents are, stearic acid, free fat from unsaponified coconut oil, min-
eral oil (rarely used) and vegetable oils (tend to become rancid).
Substances known to reduce surface tension and produce a fine-
bubble lather are saponins, sodium chlorate, and lecithin. Small quan-
tities of antioxidants like phenolic compound with long side chains,
are used for the preservation of the cream.
Use of fractionated acids from coconut or palm kernel oils ren-
ders shaving soaps nonirritating and enhances lathering.
Humectants
Glycerol has a very desirable property of making a cream soft and
maintaining it as well thus allowing for easy extrusion from a tube.
In reasonable amounts, it improves the lather and has an emollient
feel on the face. Some creams have used as much as 15% in their
formulations. Sorbitol was suggested as an alternative to glycerol
but was not found to be as effective.
Menthol
Menthol is used to give a cooling effect. But it has not received
universal acceptance.
Formulas for Lather Cream
2 3 4 5
Stearic acid 35.0% 21.0% 20,0% 38.8%
Coconut oil 10.0 10.5 6.0 9.7
Potassium hydroxide 6.1 6.6 7.5 8.0
Sodium hydroxide 2.0 0.4 0,5 1.6
Glycerol 8.0 7.0 12.0 11.6
Water 37,4 53.2 37.5 30.3
Additive 1.5 1.3 1.0 -
Boric acid - - 0.5 -
Stearine - - 15.0 -
Preservative q.s q.s q.S
Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
After saponification of stearic acid and coconut oil, add the remain-
der of stearic acid and also add special ingredients such as lanolin
and the anti-oxidant. Heat the glycerol, boric acid (if required) and
half of the water required to 65°C, mix and run slowly in the crutcher
stirring till the creamy paste is uniform. Heat the remaining water
to 44°C and add as quickly as the cream absorbs it.
BRLJSHLESS SHAVING CREAM

Lather and brushless shaving creams differ in purpose as well as
composition. A leather shaving cream is a cream like soap, a
brushless product is not a soap in the true industrial or chemical
sense of the word. It is rather a vanishing cream with an added
lubricant. A brushless shaving cream is an oil-in-water emulsion
relatively easy to make and relatively stable.
While the lather cream is designed to soften the beard, the brushless
cream requires pre-shave treatment like washing the beard with (hot)
water and soap. The brushless shaving cream sustains the softening
of the beard by the preshave treatment throughout the shave.
The brushless shaving cream exceeds the list of ingredients sug-
gested for lather shaving cream. Apart from the common ingredi-
ents, like stearic acid, coconut oil or other oils containing fatty acids
and lanolin, it includes the gums, such as karaya and Irish moss.
Also mucilaginous material such as methylcellulose, polyvinyl
pyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose have been suggested.
They not only provide body to the cream but are good stiffening
and water retaining agents.
Brushless shaving creams are formulated around the following
general formula.
Stearic acid 10-20%
Preservaticve 0.2
Mineral oil/petrolatum 3-13
Base 0.5-2
Lanolin 0-5
Gums or thickeners 0-0.5
Water 60-75
Several preparations that are variations and departures from the

general formula are shown in formulas 6-11.
Forryjulas for Brushtess Shaving Cream
.. 7 .._8 ....9 10 ......IJ.

Stearic acid, triple pressed 10% 15% 22% 26% 14% 15%
Cetyl alcohol or
stearyl alcohol - 3 - - - -
Petrolatum 10 5 - - - 13
Mineral oil, heavy - - 3 9 8 -
Carbowax - 5 - - - -
Glyceryl rñonostearate 5 - - - - -
Sodiuni hydroxide - - - - 0.4 -
Triethanolamine I - 0.75 0.5 0.6
Methyl p-hydkxy
benzoate 0.2 0.2 0.15 - - -
Boric acid - 1.0 - - 0.7 2
Borax - - 0.5 0.5 - -
Lanolin - 1.0 3.6 - 5
Water 73.8 68.3 70 64 71,3 69.5
Span 20 - 1.0 - - - -
Tween20 - 0.5 - - - -
Potassium hydroxide - - - - - 0.5
Perfume 9'S _1•! ..............
Sha'ing soap manufacture requies the standaid equipment of a

general soap factory i.e., soap kettles, driers, plodders, milling ma-
chine and cruiehers.
iiiAVE AEAAA?io&
The primary purpose of preshave preparations is to prepare the
beard and the skin of the face more effectively than the shaving
pieiaraiions alone.
Shaving cream • 75
This is accomplished by better softening of the hair, increasing

the lubricity of the shaving soap lather and reducing the sensivity of
the skin from mechanical and chemical effects of shaving.
Beard Softeners
Although brushless shaving creams are high in lubricity they do not

soften beard quickly, more so without the preshave treatment like
washing with hot water and soap. Emulsification of the natural oil
on the beard and suspension of the facial soil by a solution of soap
or synthetic detergent applied before the bmshless shaving cream,
are highly effective in hastening the wetting and softening of the
beard by water contained in the shaving cream.
Formula 1
Duponol WAT 2(kO%
AerosolOT - 100% 01
Cart'itol
Ethyl alcohol specially denatured 8.0
Water 68.9
Procedure
Dissolve the Aerosol OT 100% in a mixture of Carbitol, alcohol

and water. Add the Duponol WAT and mix until uniform. Other
brands of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate and dioctyl sodium
sulfosuccinate can be used in place of Duponal WAT and Aerosol
OT 100% respectively of equivalent content of active ingredient.
Formula 2
Coconut oil fatty adds, double distilled 4.20%

Oleic acid, tow tinoleic content 5.6
Propylene glycol 5,0
Triethanolamine 2.55
Monoethanolamine 1.26
Tergitol NPX 2.0
Water demineralized 79.09
Procedure
Mix the fatty acids and stir in the propylene glycol. Add the amines
and stir until a clear solution emerges. No heating is required. Add
the tergitol NPX and dilute with water.
Skin Conditioner
The conventional shaving soaps and the lather shave means lack in
beard softening action. The formula hereunder is a brushless shave
cream reformulated to increase its beard softening, moisturizing,
skin-lubricating and skin protecting properties. Menthol and cam-
phor are added for their cooling effect on the skin and a suitable
soap compatible antiseptic can be incorporated into the product.
Formula 3
Part A
Stearic acid, triple pressed 20.6%
Diglycol stearate, self-emulsifying 2.5
Mineral oil 55/65 4.0
Lanolin anhydrous 1.0
Sulfonated castor oil 70% 1.0
Part B
Triethanoalmine 1.3
Borax US? 0.9
Water 64.0
Propylene glycol 4.0
Part C
Menthol 0.1
Camphor 0.1
Perfume oil 0.5
When sodium alginate and similar natural gums are prepared in
advance it is advisable to preserve them with 0.1-0.2% of methyl-
p-hydroxy-benzoate.
Procedure
Heat A until melted and homogeneous to 70°C. Prepare a 2% mu:

cilage of sodium alginate and then add ingredients of B and heat to
70°C. Add A & B with good agitation and continue down to 45°C.
Stir in camphor and menthol dissolved in perfume oil. If softer con-
sistency is desired continue slow stirring down to below 35°C.
Pre—Electric Shave Preparation
A popular mode of shaving these days is the 'dry' electric shave. A

preshave preparation has a highly specialized purpose. Either the
moisture on the skin is removed or prevented from interfering with
the smooth passage of the cutting head of the shaver over the beard.
There are two different solutions for this problem. One employs
talc to absorb moisture and to leave its characteristic slip on the
face. The second uses alcoholic lotion to dry and tauten the skin by
its astringency and to preferably leave a lubricating film on the skin.
A talc stick is made for this purpose with the help of a suitable
binder, calcium sulfate (plaster of paris) with the talc and other
ingredients, moistened with water, and then moulded. An excellent
binder for powdered sticks is colloidal magnesium aluminum sili-
cate (veegum). The addition of a metallic soap, such as zinc stear-
ate, increases slip and improves adhesion. Emollients may be added
with careful consideration such that the 'slip' or interference with
the stick to dry the skin is not reduced.
The formula hereunder is as illustration of a talc stick that is
suitable for a variety of electric shaves.
Formula 4
Part A
Zinc stearate 5.0 parts
-Iron oxide Pigments q.s
Light Magnesium carbonate 2.0
Perfume q.s
Talc to make 100.0
Part B
Veegum 1.5
Water 30.5
Procedure
Adsorb the perfume completely on magnesium carbonate, add the

zinc stearate and pigments and disperse all, thoroughly in the talc.
Prepare an aqueous solution of veegum by adding slowly to the
water with good agitation until smooth. Add B to A and mull to a
smooth paste.
Another method does not require the binder in the talc. Instead
pressure is applied (450-600 psi) and the stick is coated with a
suitable material to protect it from cracking, crumbling and chip-
ping. Commonly used for this purpose are vinyl resins such as poly-
vinyl-chloride and polyvinyl acetate dissolved in ethyl acetate.
The alcoholic preshave lotion is either astringent or oily. The first
property makes the hair stiff and dry thereby making it stand up-
tight. This is achieved by using a high concentration of alcohol for
its dehydrating effect and adding a mildly astringent material, such
as lactic acid or zinc phenolsulfate. Menthol and camphor serve to
cushion minor trauma.
The oily type lubricates the beard and skin by depositing a thin
film of oil on the face. This prevents drag and pull of the cutting
head against the skin, especially in warm, humid weather and gen-
erally improves performance by reducing function.
Zinc phenolsulfate 1.8%

Ethyl alcohol, specially denatured 40.0
Menthol 0.1
Camphor 0.1
Distilled witch hazel extract 58.0
Procedure
Dissolve the zinc phenolsulfonate, menthol, and camphor in the at-
- - - Shaving Cream • 79
cobol and dilute with the distilled witch hazel extract, colour and
filter clear.
EdlrnUlation 6 (Lab ricatibfl .LOtion Oily)
Isopropyl myristate 20.0%

Ethyl alcohol, specially denatured 50.0
Perfume oil q.s
Ptddedute
Pissolve the isopropyl rEyristate and perfume oil in the alcohol add
colour and filter clean.
AFtEtI SHAVE PftEARtlOH
The general function of an after shave preparation is to relieve

discoffifort anô Ittitation caused by shaving. Its purpose is to cool
and soothe the skin, iñipaft a feeling of freshness and well bing.
the alShOlic lotion is the popularly used after shave preparation.
Here are some afteftshave preparations.
rotm.ura .1
ay oil 0.20%
Pirnehta oil 0.05
Ethyl alcohol 50.00
Jamaica rum 10.00
Water 39.75
Carathel q.s
Fomiuis.2
Mj'ristiaa OH 0.68%
ciraiigeoil 0.05
fliiiehtâ oil 0.0
Ethyl altohol 61.00
Water 10 iiiake 100.00
Procedure
Mix the oils with alcohol and gradually add water until the product
measures 100 ml. Set the mixture aside in a well closed container
for eight days, then filter using JO gm of talc, to render the product
clear.
Formula 3
Peppermint oil 1%
Glycerol 5
Bay rum 94
Formula 4
Potash alum 2%
Glycerol 3
Menthol 1% in ethyl alcohol 5
Orange flower water 20
Rose water 20
Witch hazel extracts 50
The aromatic waters mentioned are saturated solutions of odor-
iferous principles prepared by distilling the respective plant materi-
als with water, separating the excess volatile oil, if any, from the
clear water portion of the distillate and adding alcohol if necessary
for preservation.
Clear Lotions
Hereunder are some characteristics, atleast to some degree, of an
after shave, which manufactures endeavour to incorporate in their
product. I
I. Relief or irritation and tension of the freshly shaven skin.

2. Cooling and refreshing action.
3. Mild astringency.
4. Neutralization of some soap left on the skin to help restore

neutrality.
5. Antibacterial activity/action.
6. A pleasant, long-lasting and characteristic fragrance.
AFTER SHAVE PREPARATION
Concentrations of above 60% by volume of alcohol in an after shave

preparation caused excessive sting and smarting. The ideal con-
centration varies from 40-60 % by volume.
Concentrations of menthol vary from 0.005% to 0.2%. The ideal
concentration of menthol is 0.1%. It then cools the facial skin after
a close shave. Higher concentration of menthol causes an undes-
ired effect or feeling of burning sensation.
After a shave with soap the facial skin is alkaline. Small quanti-
ties of week acids like boric acid, lactic or benzoic acid in an after
shave lotion help restore the normal slightly acidic condition of the
skin.
The addition of aluminum or zinc salts increases astringency and
styptic action. The aluminum or zinc sulphates are insoluable in
alcohol and are hence unsuitable for lotions with light alcoholic con-
tent. Anyway, the styptic action of arresting bleeding from minor
razor cuts is difficult to achieve because of the solvent action of
alcohol on the blood clot.
Emolliency is imparted through polyols, like glycerol, propylene
glycol and sorbitol by incorporating them in low concentration of
upto 3%. All these polyols are considered to be innocuous. Propy-
lene glycol is the most preferred because of its low viscosity and
high volatility. Further, the polyols do not leave the skin greasy or
tacky.
Lipophilic emollients such as lanolin and its derivatives, hydro-
carbons, phospholipids and fatty acid alcohols and esters are diffi-
cult to incorporate in conventional alcoholic after shave because of
their limited solubility. Moreover they tend to reduce the character-
istic cooling and refreshing "after feel" of these preparations. They
are however employed to good effect in emulsifying creams and
lotions.
82 0 Textbook of Cosmetics
The use of bland antiseptic in shaving preparations has been
recommended as a prophylactic measure.
The formula here under is a simple, modern aftershave lotion
illustrating the use of mild acid to correct the alkaline reaction of
the skin after shaving with soap.
Formula 1
Ethyl alchol 50.0%

Sorbitol
Perfume oil 0.5
Menthol 0.1
Boric acid 2.0
Water demineralized 44.9
Procedure
Dissolve all ingredients completely in the alcohol and dilute with

water using good agitation. Allow to stand, preferably with adequate
chilling until poorly soluble constituents of the perfume oil have ag-
glomerated and then filter clear. If colour is to be added it is to be
done at room temperature.
Formula 2 a
Formula 2 is an antiseptic after shave lotion containing a quater-

nary ammonium salt, a surface anesthetic and menthol.
Hyamine lOX 0.25%
Ethyl alcohol specially denatured 40.0
Menthol 0.005
Ethyl p-aminobenzoate 0.025
Water 59.720
Perfume oil q.s
It is to be noted that very low concentrations of menthol can be
potentiated inaction by the addition of a small amount of a surface
(local) anesthetic such as benzocaine (ethyl p-aminoSenzoate)
Shaving Cream • - -83
Stick Lotions
Stick preparation, which is a popular solid after shave lotion, is con-

venient particularly when travelling.
Formula3
Ethyl alcohol specially denatured 80.5%

PerIumeoil 1.4
Sodium stearate 6.0
Glycerol 4.0
Menthol 0,1
Water 5.0
Procedure
Place all ingredients (except perfume oil) in a stainless steel steam

jacketed kettle fitted with an agitator and water cooled condenser.
Heat with stirring and at 55°C add perfume oil through an addition
funnel. Continue heating to reflux temperature and stir until com-
pletely dissolved. Adjust temperature to 71-74°C and pour into
moulds. Colour may be added by dissolving in water of the formula.
Solid and Liquid Creams

After shave preparations can take the form also of creams both
solid and liquid.
Men who find alcoholic after shave lotions uncomfortable or
irritating, particularly after overexposure to sun, wind or inclement
weather frequently use emolliert vanishing cream or hand lotion to
finish off the shave.
Formula 4
Scearic acid triple pressed 18.0%

Potassium hydroxide USP 1.2
Glycerol 5.0
Water 25.8
Distilled witch-hazel extract N.F. 50.0
Preservative 4.5
Procedure
Dissolve the potassium hydroxide in water, add glycerol and pre-

servative and heat to 80°C. Melt stearic acid in a separate vessel
and.heat to 75°C. Add the akali solution slowly to the melted stearic
acid with good agitation. When mixture cools to 50°C add the witch-
hazel extract slowly with good mixing and continue slow mixing
until cool. Cover and let stand overnight. Remix briefly before pack-
ing.
Formula 5
Stearic acid triple pressed 15.0%

Potassium hydroxide US)' 0.5
Sodium hydroxide USP 0.18
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Isopropyl myristate 3.00
Glycerol 5.00
Water 75.82
Preservative q.s
Perfume oil r.. q.s
Procedure
Dissolve potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide in water, add

glycerol and preservative and heat to 80°C. Melt in a separate
vessel stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and isopropyl myristate and heat
to 75°C. Add the alkali solution slowly to the melted oily phase with
good agitation. At 45°C add perfume and continue slow mixing
until cool. Cover and let stand overnight. Remix briefly before pack-
ing.
Formula 6
Stearic acid 3.0%

Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Glycerol 2.0
Methyl paraben 0.2
Quince seed mucilage 40.0
Triethanolamine 0.8
Water 48.0
Ethyl alcohol specially denatured 5,0
Perfume oil Q's
Procedure
Heat together the glycerol, meth'Fparaben, quince seed mucilage,
triethanolamine, and water to 75°C. Heat separately stearic acid
and cetyl alcohol to 75°C. Add the two phases with good agitation.
When cooled to 40°C mix alcohol, perfume and add slowly to the
emulsion with stirring. At 30°C discontinue stirring and bottle. The
formulae here under illustrate respectively a soft cream and a heavy
lotion. -
Glyceryl monostearate, pure 10.00% 3.00%

Stcaryl alcohol 3.00 1.50
Sorbo 5.00 2.50
€mcol E-607.5 1.00 1.00
Emcol E-607 0.25 0.25
Sodium benzoate 0.10 0.10
Perfume oil 0.30 0.30
Water 80.35 91.35
Procedure
Heat glyceryl monostearate and stearyl alcohol together to 70°C.
In another vessel, dissolve the sorbo, Emco!s and sodium benzoate
in water and heat to 70°C. Add the oily phase to aqueous phase
with good agitation and continue mixing while cooling. Add per-
fume at 40°C. Mix until cooled to 25°C and package.
Powders
Aftershave powders are traditional and still are popular accesso-

ries to the shave.
Their obvious function is to impart matte finish to the face, mak-
ing the shine left by a too-oily brushless shave or toning down the
"too scrubbed" look after a lather shave. The masking function
covers minor skin defects and hides an inadequate shave. In dark
haired and heavily bearded individuals powder is indispensable in
rendering a clean shaven appearance. The less obvious but impor-
tant functions are identical with those mentioned for after shave
lotions,
The formulation of an after shave powder differs from that of a
face powder in several ways.
I. Firstly, in an after shave powder, the slip and adherence
are relatively more important than covering powder and
bloom. Because the slip enhances the cooling and refresh
ing effect.
2. It must not be opaque so that its appearance on the face is
less obvious.
3. The aftershave powder should be able to absorb moisture
from the skin without caking or streaking because the face
usually is difficult to dry completely after the shave. How-
ever, its oil absorbing functions may not be of the same
degree as that of a face powder.
4. An after shave contains a relatively large proportion of
talc. --
5. Colour of an after shave powder is normally light or
almost suntanned flesh tone.
Formula 9
Formula 9 is a typical example of an after-shave powder.
Talc 80%
Kaolin colloidal 10
Zinc stearate 5
Precipitated chalk 3
Boric acid 2
Yellow ochure q.s
Perfume oil q.s
The commercial manufacture of after shave powders does not
differ materially from that of a face powder.
Styptics
Styptic pencils and alum blocks are shaving accessories. The styp-
tic pencils are exclusively to stanch bleeding from minor cuts pro-
duced during shaving. Alum blocks offer a convenient method of
applying a high concentration aluminum salt to a limited area of the
face.
EA I
Lotions
OTIONS CAN BE defined as medicated washes. But in cosmetic
cience language, a lotion is a liquid preparation, applied exter-
nally on the skin to produce or enhance a beautification. The main
functions of lotions are soothing and emolliency, extended to astrin-
gency, skin freshening, bleaching and other medicinal properties.
Some of the liquid creams can also be designated as lotions,
although these do not contain any germicides. A general formula
for a lotion includes, alcohol, water and glycerin, with some special
astringents, gums, honey or antiseptic etc.
Generally denatured alcohol is used for reducing the cost of the
product. Rarely isopropyl alcohol can be used as a substitute for
ethyl alcohol, as methyl alcohol is not advisable because of its tox-
icity even through percutaneous absorption. The most commonly
used gums are karaya, acacia, gum tragacanth which is a dried
mucilaginous exudation, probably through insect action. But this
gum gives a thicker mucilage than karaya. Gum arabic (Acacia) is
a true gum and is freely soluble in water. But this is mainly used as
an emulsifying agent. Recently tragum has entered into market, a
2% solution can give a good stable suspension of solids.
Gum benzoin is not a true gum but resin. It has a pleasing odour
like vanilla, good preservative properties as it contains, beuzoic and
cinnamic acids. Quince seed aqueous extract is another good sus-
pending agent but expensive.
Lotions • 89
Marsh mallow root starch is also used. Sometimes a 1% solution

of corn starch is another cheaper substitute for low expensive prepa-
rations as it gives a good wucilage. All mucilages have disadvan-
tage of changing their viscosity on ageing and thereby shelf life
problems.
An astringent is a substance, which contracts tissue and thereby
lessens secretions. Protein matter is coagulated. Eg. Aluminum salts,
zinc salt, tannins, witch hazel are generally selected for lotions nor-
mally at dosage levels of 1%. Tannic acid or tannin is a yellowish,
glistening, scaly powder, soluble in parts of water and in two parts
of alcohol. It is incompatible with proteins, chlorides, heavy metal
salts, starch, oxidizing substances and alkaloids. It is used often in
external preparations as styptic antipruritic, for the treatment of
burns and for certain skin disorders. It hardens the skin, when used
repeatedly in concentrated solutions. Witch hazel has a soothing
and astringent action, it has extensive use in lotions. It is a saturated
aqueous extract of the dried leaves of Hamamellis virginiana, which
are collected in autumn. The official (NP) extract contains besides
water, 14% of alcohol, tannin, 8% gallic acid, volatile oil, and a
bitter principle. It has a pleasant odour with good astringent action,
soothing properties, and its miscibility with alcohol, glycerin and
water in all proportions makes witch hazel a desirable ingredient
for lotions.
Another category of desired ingredients in lotions are antiseptics
and bacteriostatics. Cooling effect is also desirable for lotions. Men-
thol is generally used for this purpose. Lotions do need preserva-
tives to prevent bacterial contaminations, and hence, salicylates,
benzoates and parabens are used in the formulation.
Lotions are filtered through simple filters, and filteraids.
Finally raw materials used should be free from impurities hence
observation is recommended for sedimentation for 24 hours before
filtration. Incompatibilities should also be borne in mind before de-
signing a formulation.
HAND LOTIONS
These are meant for keeping the hands soft and soothing, as. the
hands are most used in rough and tough work like dish washing,
and other household chores. Solid and liquid creams, emollient lo-
tions that are nongreasy are also recommended, A general formula
of a lotion is described below.
Formula 1
Stearic acid 3.15%

Glycerin 6.0
Potassium hydroxide 0.15
Water 79.3
Alcohol 8.5
Perfume 0.5
Quince seed (Ext) 2.15
Preservative 0.15
Procedure
Dissolve the potassium hydroxide in one third of the water and add
the glycerin. Bring the rest of the water to a temperature of 80°C.
Add the quince seed and soak for six hours and strain through
muslin. Melt the stearic acid, dissolve the perfume in the alcohol.
Add to the hot potassium hydroxide, the melted stearic acid and boil
for a minute. Allow the temperature to drop to 70°C and then stir it
into quince seed mucilage. Stir occasionally until cool, then slowly
add the alcohol, preservative and perfume.
Formula 2
Gum tragacanth 4
Tincture benzoin Sumatra 26
Glycerin 5
Boric acid
Alcohol S.D. 39 B 35
Waterdistilled qs IOU
Perfume qs
Lotions • 91
Procedure
Make a mucilage of the gum tragacenth with water (2/3). Make

up the tincture of benzoin. Both mucilage and tincture must be
strained. Dissolve the boric acid in the rest of the water (hot) in the
mixing tank. Add the mucilage, then the alcohol, in which the per-
fume has been dissolved. Add the tincture with stirring. Mix well
strain again and fill when cold.
Formula 3
Stearic acid [5%
Powdered soap (Neutral or white) 1.0
Alcohol S.D. 39 B 4,0
Glycerin 5.9
Borax 2.5
Gum karaya 1.5
Water 82.95
Perfume 0.5
Preservative 0.15
Procedure
Mix the gum karaya, with alcohol and stir into half the water (warm),
when dissolved strain through muslin. Heat the rest of the water,
and dissolve in it the borax; add the soap, glycerin and melted stearic
acid, and agitate until cool. Then add the mucilage, preservative
and the perfume.
PINEAPPLE JUICE HAND LOTION
Formula 4
Irish moss mucilage 3% 37.0%
Glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 15.0
Boric acid 0,5
Tincture of benzoin 0.5
Pineapple juice 36.8

Methyl paraben 0.2
The irish moss mucilage is made by soaking 3% of cleaned irish
moss in 97% by weight of water. After soaking overnight, drain off
the mucilage and add the required quantity to the above formula.
The procedure is similar to that of previous formula. Upto 5% pow-
dered soap can also be added.
MENTHOL LOTION
Formula 5
Menthol 0.2%
Powdered tragacanth 0.5
Alcohol 9.0
Glycerin 4.5
Water 85.8
Dissolve the menthol in alcohol and add to the tragacanth. Add
water and glycerin and mix until a smooth mixture results.
WITCH HAZELLOTION
Formula 6
Quince seed 2.0%

Hot water 8.0
Glycerin 16.0
Witch hazel 71.5
Boric acid 2.0
Perfume 0.5
Dissolve the boric acid in water and mix with the other ingredi-
ents.
Lotions • 93
WITCH HAZEL AND BENZOIN LOTION
Formula 7
Tragacanth 0.75%
Glycerin 6.25
Witch haze) 6.25
Liquefied phenol 0.75
Oil of rose 0.1
Alcohol 6.25
Water 79.25
LEMON LOTION
Formula 8
Pectin 2.5%
Lemon juice 9.5
Citric acid 3.0
Benzoic acid 0.15
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 15.0
Water 64.35
Perfume 0.5
Dissolve the citric acid in water. Add the benzoic acid and lemon
juice and pectin. Then add glycerin and the perfume dissolved in
alcohol.
LEMON LOTION
Formula 9
Gum tragacanlh 5
Lemon juice 25
Boric acid 1.25
Glycerin 1.0
Alcohol 35.0
Colour qs
Distilled water qs 100
HAND LOTION
Formula 10
Gum tragacanth 5.0

Boiling water qs to 100
Ethylene glycol or glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 12.0
Phenol 0.25
Camphor 0.25
Soften the gum in water and smoothen it by forcing through
cheese cloth. Add balance of ingredients and mix well.
SKIN TONING LOTION AND FRESHENERS
These are limpid liquids with weakly astringent, invigorating, stimu-

lating and at times antiseptic properties. They are generally meant
for freshening the skin and to remove any residual creams.
The technology, and skill in making these solutions adds to the
elegance and quality of the product. Clarity of the product can be
achieved by filtering the liquid with talc or magnesium oxide and
ageing helps in mellowing the finished product, hence it is desirable.
Alcohol 30.0%
Glycerin 5.0
Lactic acid 85% 2.0
Water 62.5
Perfume 0.5
Mix perfume with alcohol and rest of ingredients, age and filter.
Lotions • 95
Formula 11
Boric acid 2.0%

Alum 1.0
Camphor 0.02
Menthol 0.14
Formaldehyde 0.1
Ethylene glycol 4.0
Water 82.49
Alcohol 10.0
Perfume 0.25
Mix the camphor and menthol together to form a liquid. Heat
one part of water; dissolve the boric acid in it. Similarly with alum.
Put the remainder of water into the tank, add the formaldehyde,
mixed with the glycol then add the boric acid solution and mix again.
Then add camphor menthol solution, alcohol and perfume. Mix thor-
oughly, age and filter.
Formula 12
Aromatic spirit of ammonia 2.0%

Alcohol 4.0
Lavender oil 0.25
Distilled water 93.75
Mix the aromatic spirit of ammonia with the water. Add the
lavender oil dissolved in alcohol, age and filter.
Boric acid 1.0%
Witch hazel 15.0
Rose water 15.0
Alcohol 10.0
Warm the witch hazel, and dissolve the boric acid in it. Mix the
rest of the ingredients with the orange flower water and add the
boric acid solution. Mix, age and filter as usual.
Formula 13
Tincture of benzoin 1.25%
Boric acid 0.5
Glycerin 8.3
Perfume 0,2
Alcohol 40.0
Witch hazel 9.75
Colour to tint q.s
Dissolve the tincture of benzoin and perfume in the alcohol. Warm
the witch hazel and dissolve the boric acid in it. Mix the witch hazel
and the orange flower water. Add glycerin then add the tincture
and alcohol. Mix thoroughly, age and filter as before.
Menthol 0.05%
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 5.0
Boric acid 2.0
Bay rum 15.0
Water 72.7
Perfume 0.25
Procedure
Dissolve the menthol in alcohol and the boric acid in a small quan-
tity of warm water. Mix the test of the water, with the Bay rum.
Add the menthol solution, mix and then add boric acid solution and
the glycerin. Finally add the perfume mixed with a little precipitated
chalk. Mix, age and filter as before. Add perfume to alcohol.
ASTRINGENT LOTIONS
These are intended to correct excessive oiliness and also to make
coarse pores less noticeable. Oiliness is caused by either fatty diet or
Lotions • 97
individual metabolic changes of fat, orby constipation. Treatment with

astringent lotion in the morning is helpful in removing the oiliness, pref-
erably in addition to a treatment with astringent cream at night.
The astringents generally react with protein. The best known
astringent is tannic acid. It is even helpful in the treatment of burns
because of its reaction with proteins or the decomposed protein
mailer to form insoluble substances. Further it prevents the absorp-
tion of the toxic products of protein decomposition and the forma-
tion of the leather like crust helps to relieve the pain and to protect
the underlying sensitive surfaces. So do tannins obtained from natural
resources like woods, barks, and other plant materials.
Testing of Astringent Action
1. By precipitation of protein, quantitatively this can be mea-

sured.
2. The difference in the extensibility of tissues before and
after treatment with a solution of the substance.
3. The increased resistance of red corpuscles to heamolysis.
Formula 15
Alum 0.75%
Zinc sulfate 0.1
Glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 10.0
Water 78.65
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the alum in one part of water and the zinc sulfate with the
remainder of the water. Add the alum solution and then the alcohol.
Allow to stand for 24 hours and filter.
Formula 16
Boric acid 3.0%

Alum 1.3
Formaldehyde 0.2
Glycerin 5.0
Alcohol 10.0
Water 80.0
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the boric acid in two pans of water with heat. Similarly,
alum using less water. Mix the formaldehyde with the glycerin, and
the perfume with the alcohol. Then add the rest of the water the
alum solution, the boric solution, the formaldehyde and the perfume
solution.
Formula 17
Lactic acid 5.0%

Alum 3.0
Oxyquinoline sulfate 2.0
Glycerin 10.0
Alcohol 10.0
Water 69.5
Perfume 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the alum in one part of water. Mix the lactic acid with the
remainderof the water. Add the oxyquinoline sulfate, then the alum
solution.
GLYCERIN LOTION
Formula 18
Aluminum sulphate 1.0%

Glycerin 4.5
Triethanolamine 0.5
Lotions • 99
Alcohol 30.0
Perfume 05
Water 63.5
Rich Massage Lotion
A heavy, rich lotion with excellent lubricity. Apply regularly. Mas-

sage the skin in circular movements.
Skin type: All types for massage, excellent for dry areas such
as knees, elbows, etc.
Glycerin & Rosewater Lotion with Vitamin E
A light rose scented moisturing lotion gives the added benefits of

vitamin E. Ideal for young and sensitive skin types.
Skin Type: Young, sensitive and oily skin.
Cocoa-Butter Hand and Body Lotions
Cocoa-Butter helps soothe sore skin. Irritated skin may benefit from
Chamomile and Marigold. Myrrh Oil aids healthy nail growth. To
use on sore and dry skin.
Skin type: Dry skin.
Peppermint Foot Lotion
A rich, cooling foot lotion made with cocoa-butter and lanolin to

soften hard skin, with Attica, a well known herb for bruises, to
soothe tired feet, peppermint oil to overcome foot odour and men-
thol to invigorate the feet and assist in counteracting chilblains.
Cocoa-Butter Suntan Lotion
Contains sesame oil which filters the sun's ultra-violet rays, and
black walnut leaves which slowly colour the skin brown and Aloe
Vera which produces a soothing effect on the skin, with a cocoa-
butter base, absolutely nongreasy. To be used both before and after
sunbathing, superb for maintaining the tan.
Freckle Lotion
Potassium chloride 1.2%
Borax 1.0
Potassium carbonate 3.7
Sugar 3.7
Glycerin 9.0
Rose water 20.0
Alcohol 10.0
Perfume 0.4
Make separate solutions of potassium carbonate and potassium
chlorate and borax with a portion of the water. Dissolve the sugar
in the remainder of water. Add the glycerin and rose water. Mix
and then add the other solutions individually mixing before each
addition. Add alcohol and perfume,
Caution: Do not mix dry potassium chlorate with organic sub-
stances.
Freckle Lotion
Acetic acid 3.0%
Concentrated lemon juice 10.0
Glycerin 6.0
Water 70.0
Perfume 1.0
Alcohol 10.0
Dissolve the concentrated lemon juice and the acetic acid in the
water. Mix the perfume with alcohol and glycerin and add the solu-
tion to the lemon juice solution. Mix and filter.
Oral Hygenic
Products
ENTAL CARE PRODUCTS are meant for keeping the dental struc
D ture, healthy, strong and protected against any infection (oral).
These are also meant for keeping the enamel on teeth intact. These
products can be classified as normal and medicated dental prepá-
rations.
An ideal dental care product will remove dental plaque and tartar
and at the same time does no damage to the enamel of the teeth. A
tooth powder can be handled either by hand or with the help of a
brush whereas it is advisable to use a toothpaste or a gel, in con-
junction with a brush. A medicated dental product shoflld prevent/
protect dental decay.
FEEL
After the usage of dental product, it should leave a tingling effect in

the mouth; keep the oral cavity free from bad odour.
A general formulation of a dental product should consist of the
following ingredients.
• An abrasive
• A sweetener
• A foaming agent
• A polishing agent
• A preservative
• A cleansing agent
• A colouring agent
• A flavouring agent/oil
• A bleaching agent
TOOTHPOWDERS—GENERAL FORMULAS
Formula 1
Hard soap powdered 5 parts

Calcium carbonated precipitated 93.4
Saccharin soluble (Sodium saccharin is
nowadays replaced by sodium cyclamate) 0.2
Oil of peppermint 0.4
Oil of cinnamon 0.2
Methyl salicytate 0.8
100.0
Formula 2
Microcrystalline aluminium hydroxide 50 parts

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 2.0
Saccharin 0.1
Gum tragacanth 0.1
Water 47.8
100.0
Formula 3: Ammoniated Tooth Powder
Dibasic ammonia phosphate 5.0 parts

Carbamide 3.0
Ben lonite 6.0
Saccharin soluble 0.2
Menthol 0.2
Calcium carbonate ppt 84.2
Oral Hygenic Products • 103
Oil of cinnamon 0.2
Oil of wintergreen 0.6
Dyponal (SLS) 0.4
100.0
Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 91.8 parts

Sodium copper chlorphy]lin 0.2
Sodium lauryl sulphate 3.0
Sodium tripolyphosphate 3.0
100.0
Formula 5: Penicillin Toothpowder

Calcium carbonate (pptated) 94.27 parts
Tricalcium phosphate 0.2
Sulfocalmate 2.03
Menthol 0.2
Methyl salicylate 0.8
Saccharin soluble (Sodium saccharin nowadays
is replaced by Sodium cyclamate) 0.3
Potassium penicillin. 500 units./gms 2.0
100.0
Formula 6
Calcium carbonate 72.0 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 2.0
Neutral soap 6.5
Saccharin 0.3
Essential oils 2.2
Penicillin 1,00,000 units 2.0
100.0
Formula 7: Anti enzyme Toothpowder

Sodium N-lauryl sarcocinate 3.0 parts
Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 94.2
Calcium phosphate dihydrate 0.3
Flavour 2.5
100.0
Formula 8: Fluoride Toothpowder

Microcrystalline aluminium hydroxide 91.25 parts
Aluminium hydroxide (325 mesh) 5.2
Flavour 2.0
Saccharin soluble 0.25
Sodium fluoride 0.1
100.11
Formula 9: Tartar Removing Toothpowder

Siliceous earth 95 parts
Erythrosine 0.1
Cluside USP 1.5
Cassia oil 0.4
Sodium benzoate 2.0
Clove oil 0.8
Menthol 0.2
100.0
These toothpowders should not contain carbonate soaps or any

alkaline materials. The active ingredient is sodium benzoate as it
acts as a solvent on the tartar incrustations.
Formula 10: Antacid Toothpowder

Zinc oxide (Purified) 10.0 parts
Soda bicarbonate 6.5
Powdered soap (neutral) 6.5
Confectioner's sugar 11.0
Flavour of choice q.s.
100.0
Charcoal Toothpowders
Formula 11
Fine levigated wood charcoal (carbolignin) is the choice raw mate-
rial.
Powdered charcoal 40 parts
Powdered cuttlefish bone 10
Prepared chalk 20
Heavy magnesium carbonate 20
Lactose 10
Clove oil q.s.
100.0
Activated charcoal (abrasive) 80.0 parts

obtained from vegetable sources
Absorbent(Magnesium carbonate) 16.0
Foaming agent 2.0
Sweetener 0.1
Oil of wintergreen 0.6
Oil of thymol 0.1
100.0
Cocoa Toothpowder
Cocoa powder inhibits plaque formation and further, the combina-
tion of the cocoa powder and flavouring jigent results in a taste
pleasing, anti-plaque oral composition for denial use.
MANUFACTURE OF TOOTI-IPOWDERS
The manufacture of tooth powders is a relatively easy and simple
operation compared to other dental products. The primary objec-
tive is the homogeneous distribution of all the ingredients without
contamination by foreign substance or possible reactive equipment.
In case of tooth powders it is advisable to mix the ingredients
relatively small quantities first, before admixture with the reminder
of the components. The flavour can be sprayed into the bulk of the
powders during the mixing process, which is done in a ribbon type
mixer.
Some tooth powders tend to form lumps or resist to flow. The
process for overcoming this involves granulating the powders by
drying slurries containing the very finely divided polishing agent, a
detergent and a small amount of binder. The dried product is then
mixed with the flavouring materials. The size of the granules of the
tooth powders should be such that substantially all are retained on a
100 mesh screen but pass through a40 mesh screen.
Packing Dentifrices
Tooth powders are generally packed in metal cans with dispensing
top and closed with a metal or plastic cap. The cans are generally
made of tin-plated or chemically treated steel and may be coated
internally with a suitable lacquer.
Quality Control
It is important to standardize all factors concerned with the manu-
facture of dentifrices to ensure distribution of all ingredients uni-
formly. To do this, specifications and control procedures for the
raw and packaging materials finished product, manufacturing pro-
cedure should be written and adhered to.
LIQUID DENTIFRICES/TOOTHPASTES
In addition to the ingredients presented in the preceding sections,
dentifrices have been reported to contain astringents (zinc chloride),
preservatives (dischlorophene benzoate) esters of p-hydroxy ben-
zoate, formaldehyde, oxidizing agents (potassium chlorate, sodium
perborate, urea peroxide, magnesium peroxide) magnesium hydrox-
ide, glycono delta lactone and chloroform.
In many instances, the added ingredients were intended to en-
hance the efficacy of the dentifrice. Although evidence to support
this efficacy is not available in literature.
The need for care in selecting ingredients intended to fulfil a
specific purpose (such as preservatives is again evident from re-
ports where patients developed side effects due to the presence of
some such sensitive ingredients.
Formula 1
Soap powdered 7.2 % or parts

Saccharin 0.20
Amaranth (Solution) 1.0
Oil of cinnamon 0.6
Oil of clove 1.2
Alcohol 29.2
100.04
Formula 2
Sodium alginate 2 % or parts

Sodium fluoride 0.1
Water 66
Crystalline aluminium hydroxide 25
Flavouring agent, detergent, colour q.s.
Dilute hydrochloric acid 4.2
Water to make 100
Formula 3
Chalk 39.5 % or parts

Water 32.5
Glycerol 20.0
Soap 6.3
Gum 0.4
Saccharin 0.1
Flavouring oils 1,2
100.0
Formula 4
Calcium carbonate 45.7 % or parts

Starch 7.0
Glycerol 28.2
Water 14.4
Sodium benzoate 2.2
Flavouring material 1.3
Sodium salt of sulphuric acid
ester of fatty acid monoglyceride 1.2
100.0
It is a representative formula of a toothpaste in which calcium

carbonate is used as the abrasive, starch as binder and the sodium
salt of sulfated coconut monoglyceride as the surface-active agent.
Formula 5
Dicalcium phosphate 42.5 % or parts

Sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfonate 2.0
Water 28.35
Glycerol 25.0
Irish moss extract .45
Saccharin 0.1
Flavouring agent (mint) 0.6
100.0
Oral Hygeriic Products • 109
This is a toothpaste, wherein the abrasive is dicalcium phos-
phate, and the binder is Irish moss extract.
Formula 6

Glycerin of starch 31.4
Magnesium hydroxide 3.8
Powdered white neutral soap 0.9
Potassium soap 0.73
Gum traacanth 0.11
Flavour (peppermint oil/spearmint oil! 0.8
menthol)
Distilled water to make 100.0
Formula 7
Tricalcium phosphate 38.66 % or parts

Urea 13.0
Dibasic ammonium phosphate 3.0
Sorbitol 14.5
Glycerol 10.0
Water 16,64
2,2-dihydroxy 5.5-dichloro diphenyl 0.25
methane
Aminoacetic acid 0.34
Carboxy methyl cellulose 0.28
Flavouring oil 1.1
Saccharin 0.23
100.0
Formula 8: Chlorophyll Toothpaste

Sodium lauryl sulfate 5.0
Gum tragacanth 4.5
Chlorophyll (water soluble) or
Copper chlorophyll 0.5
Distilled water q.s.
100.0
This formula is a representative of toothpaste containing water

soluble chlorophyll derivatives. This formula utilizes calcium car-
bonate and magnesium carbonate as the abrasives, SLS as the sur-
face-active agent and gum tragacanth as the binder.
Formula 9: Anti Enzyme Toothpaste

Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 36.2
Sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate 2.0
Glycerol 30.6
Witter 15.3
Irish moss 1.0
Sweetening agent, flavour, preservative 2.8
100,0
Formula 10
Microcrystalline aluminium hydroxide 38.2 % or pans

Aluminium hydroxide (325 mesh) 5.3
Sodium alginate 1.0
Sodium fluoride 0.1
Glycerol 15.3
Sorbo (70% aqueous sorbitol) 15.3
Water 20.8
Colour q. s.
Saccharin q. s.
Soluble flavour 1.2
Orihophosphoric acid to pH 7.3 Of)
100.0
Formula 11: Milk of Magnesia Toothpaste

Milk of magnesia 24.0 % or parts
Soap powdered (neutral/white) 1.75
Glycerin of Starch 12.0
Glycerin 12.0
Water 20.0
Flavour 0.5
Methyl parahen 0.1
Mineral oil heavy 1.5
Saccharin 0.15
100.0
MANUFACTURE OF LIQUID DENTIFRICES

The equipment required for the manufacture of liquid dentifrice is
conventional, consisting of mixing and storage tanks, filtration units,
glass lined or stainless steel tanks. In some cases manufacturing
involves simple mixing of all the ingredients. In those instances
wherein hydrophilic colloids are included tciincrease viscosity, the
material is homogeneously dispersed in a portion of the solvent be-
fore mixing with the remaining ingredients. Flavours are generally
dissolved in alcohol to which glycerol, aqueous solution of colouring
matter, sweeteners and detergents are added.
Manufacture of Toothpastes
There are two general methods utilized in the manufacture of tooth-

pastes.
I) The binder wetted with humectant is dispersed in the liquid
portion containing the saccharin and preservative and allowed to
swell, to form a homogeneous gel. Heating and agitation are used
for acceleration of swelling. This gel is pumped into a suitable mixer
such as Abbe Dispersall and the solid abrasive is slowly distributed
with stirring until the whole mass is homogeneous, it can also be
done the other way. With the abrasive weighed into the mixer and
the liquid gel is added slowly with agitation until a homogeneous
paste is formed. The flavour and detergent are added last and dis-
tributed uniformly. Excessive aeration particularly with the addition
of the detergent should be avoided. The paste can then be milled,
deaerated and tubed. In the second method, the binder is premixed
with solid abrasives and introduced simultaneously with an aqueous
solution of the humectant, preservative and saccharin into a suit-
able day dough type mixer. After mixing to a homogeneous paste,
the flavour and detergent are added. However, since heat is not
used in this method, it must be ensured that the binder can be suffi-
ciently swollen during the mixing process so that the paste is uni-
form and of desired consistency.
2) Alternatively a toothpaste manufacturing procedure recom-
mends moderate heat to accelerate swelling of binder. The glyc-
erol, Irish moss, water, preservative and saccharin are mixed and
heated to 100°F to form a gel like mass. The sarcosinate is then
added with agitation to form a homogeneous mass after which cal-
cium carbonate and dicalcium phosphate dihydrate are incorpo-
rated. After cooling and flavouring the mass is milled, deaerated
and strained to produce a smooth homogeneous paste.
As in the case of toothpowders, adequate care must be taken to
ensure that the manufacturing equipment does not interact with the
paste thereby changing itscolour or taste. Stainless steel and glass-
lined equipment are best suited for this purpose.
Oral flygenic Products • 113
Packing of Dentifrices
First tin collapsible tubes were made by 'Frenchman Richard Alive'
during the 1950s, but due to scarcity of tin lead tubes with tin coat-
ing were used. In case of less than 10% tin coating on lead there is
a danger of lead being absorbed by the paste. Hence for protection,
wax spraying was done to prevent any such danger. Subsequently
aluminium tubes were used.
In view of the possibility of tube corrosion or metallic contami-
nation of the packaged product, it is important to establish the ac-
ceptability of a selected tube and protective coating, if a coating is
used for the specific produced manufactured. The closure of the
tube is also an important aspect to consider. Formerly metal caps
were used, but moulded plastic caps are currently in vogue. The
inside of the cap has a plastic or a cork lining to seal the mouth of
the tube. Recently plastic collapsible tubes have been introduced
for specific advantages.
GEL TOOTHPASTE
A gel toothpaste is a gas-free or substantially gas-free viscous,
extrudible paste or gel dentifrice comprising a polishing agent, a
gelling agent and a vehicle and mixing with such dentifrice bubbles
of gas of a size varying from 0.1-4 mm in diameter or containing
2-100 such bubbles per cubic centimeter of dentifrice. It is of a
viscosity sufficient to maintain the bubbles therein. The clear gel
dentifrices include polishing agents, gelling agents and vehicles, along
with an anionic detergent or a foaming agent. Other adjuvants usu-
ally present are colour, flavour, antibacterial, preservative, buffer-
ing agents and an insoluble gas, i.e., a gas which will not dissolve
objectionably in the dentifrice medium, although some of the gas
may already be present in a dissolved state to create the dispersed
bubble or sphere effect in the dentifrice.
Among the most useful polishing agents are complex alumino-
silicates such as sodium aluminosilicate and silica xerogels, which
are often partially hydrated (20%).
Gelling agents which may be useful to gelate or thicken the den-
tifrice include the natural and synthetic gums and gum-like materi-
als such as sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl carboxym-
ethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, tragacanth, bean gum, statch
glycolates and carbopol 934,940, bentonite and other natural clays,
proteinaceous materials either animal or vegetable derived, syn-
thetic inorganic clays such as the silicated clays known as Laponite
CP and SP to name a few.
The gelling materials employed are gelable with polyhydric
alkanols such as glycerol and sorbitol and with water and lower
alkanols.
Glycerin 30.0%
Sorbitol (70% aqueous solution) 33.0
Laponite SP 2.0
Sodium aluniinosilicate 20.0
Sodium N-lauroyl sarcoside 2.0
Flavour (essential oils) 1.0
Synthetic sweetener (saccharin) 0.1
Colouring solution (1% aqueous, green dye) 1.0
Sodium monoflourophosphate 0.8
Water 10.1
The Laponite SP, flavour, sweetener and colouring agent are
mixed with approximately 1/3 of the glycerin and 1/3 of the sorbitol
plus 1/2 of the water and a vacuum of 700 mm Hg is applied for 10
minutes. Then, 1/3 of the glycerin and 1/3 aluminosilicate and so-
dium monofluorophosphate and similar vacuum is applied to it for
the same period of time to remove any entrained air. The sodium
N-lauroyl sarcoside is next mixed in the remaining glycerin and
sorbitol. The material is heated to 50°C and held for 5 hours with-
out the application of vacuum or for 10 minutes with the same
vacuum previously mentioned.
Then the polyhydric alkanol-gelling agent portion is mixed with
the vehicle-polishing agent-fluoride portion, at a temperature of 40°C
with the application of 700 mm Hg vacuum for 5 minutes, after
which the surface active agent mixture is admixed, using the same
vacuum and holding it for about 10 minutes. The mixing is done in a
Unimix mixer, equipped with Teflon scraper blades, which clear the
walls of the mixture to within 0.2 mm, leaving only a very thin film
of dentifrice thereon. The product resulting is essentially gas-free,
containing less than 0.1% by volume of entrained air. The pH thereof
is about 8. (Product pH's within the process are 5 to 9.) The prod-
uct resulting is a visually clear gel dentifrice of attractive appear-
ance.
MOUTHWASHES
Mouthwashes are liquids more aqueous in nature and are to be
applied in the mouth. They are solid or liquid concentrates which
are diluted with waterjust before use. These concentrates have an
advantage in economy of manufacture, shipping and storage but
are not accepted as popular dosage forms. Mouthwashes generally
contain:
• flavour
• Antibacterial compounds
• Penetrants
• Astringents
• Therapeutic or Preventive compounds
• Deodorants
Broadly mouthwashes are classified into:
I. Cosmetic mouth washes consisting of water and alcohol,
flavour (essential oil) and colour. May also contain some-
times surfactants (to solubilize essential oils) and to help in
penetration and cleansing of the mouth and teeth.
2. Mouthwashes with a primary function of removing or de-
stroying the bacteria in the oral cavity (solutions)
3. Astringent mouth washes, which in addition to their direct
effect on the oral mucosa, also serves the purpose of floc-
culating and precipitating proteinaceous materials so that it
can be removed by flushing.
4. Mouthwash concentrateswhich are desired for use after
• 5. Buffered mouthwashes, which depend for their action pri-
marily on the pH of the solution. Alkaline preparations may
be helpful in reducing stringy saliva or reducing nauseous
deposits by dispersion of protein.
6. Deodorizing mouthwashes, which may depends on anti-
bacterial action or on other mechanism for their effect.
7. Therapeutic mouthwashes, which are formulated for the
purpose of relieving infections, preventing dental caries, or
mitigating some other pathological condition of the mouth,
teeth or throat.
The following are examples of a variety of mouthwashes.
Mouthwash Formula
Boric Acid 1.5 % or parts

Thymol 0.1
Euca ly p to I 0,5
Oil of thyme 0.03
Menthol 0.1
Alcohol 30.0
Water 67.67
100.0
Dissolve boric acid in 60% of the water and other ingredients in

60% of the alcohol. Pour the aqueous solution into the alcoholic
solution; add 2% of purified talc and allow the mixture to stand with
occasional stirring for forty-eight hours. Filter the rest of the alco-
hol and water, and add caramel for colouring if a darker colour is
desired.
Alkaline Mouthwash
Potassium bicarbonate 2.1 % or parts
Borax 2.0
Oil of sassafras 0,!
Thymol 0.05
Eucalyptol 0.1

Tincture of cudbear 0.2
Alcohol 5.0
Glycerin 9.0
Water distilled 81.4
100.00
Dissolve the potassium bicarbonate and borax in 50% of the
water. Dissolve the oils in alcohol; add the alkaline solution, the
tincture of cudhear, and the rest of the water. Mix thoroughly for
two hours. Allow to stand for 48 hours. Chill and filter. Two per-
cent of purified talc may be used to aid clarification.
Resorcinol Mouthwash
Resorcinol 5.0 parts
Zinc chloride 0.03
Menthol 0.5
Thy mo I 0.2
Eucalyptol 0.03
Camphor 0.03
Alcohol 25.00
Glycerin 10.00
Water 59.16
100.00
Dissolve resorcinol and zinc chloride in water, and the thyrnol,
eucalyptol, wintergreen, menthol and camphor in the alcohol. Mix
the two solutions together and add glycerin. Mix for one hour, chill
and filter.
Salol-Thymol Mouthwash
Salo! 0.3 parts
Thymol 0.15
Oil of lavender 0.03
Menthol 0.03
Benzoic acid 0.6

Glycerin 15.0
Alcohol 30.0
Water 53.89
100.00
Dissolve salol, thymol, benzoic acid, and menthol in alcohol. Mix

well. Mix tincture of cardamom with glycerin, add to alcohol, then
add lavender oil and the water. Mix for four hours, chill and filter,
Astringent Mouthwash
Sodium chloride 2.5 parts

Zinc chloride 0.5
Menthol 0.05
Alcohol 0.6
Glycerin 10.0
Cinnamon oil 0.1
Water 86.25
100.00
Dissolve the zinc chloride and the sodium chloride in water; add
glycerin. Dissolve the rest of ingredients in alcohol. Mix the two
solutions together and filter.
Aromatic Mouthwash
Eucalyptol 1.0 parts
Menthol 1.0
Clove oil 0,5
Wintergreen oil 0.0!
Heliotropine 0.01
Chlorophyll, alcohol soluble 0.2
Water - 50.28
Alcohol 47.0
100.00
Oral HygenicProducts • 119
Dissolve all ingredients in the alcohol, and then add water. Mix
for three hours. Chill in a cooling tank 1040°F, and filler.
Orange Mouthwash
Boric acid 2.5 parts
Chlorothymol 0.1
Methyl salicylatc 0.6
Glycerine 10.0
Dark orange colour as desired
100.00
Acid Mouthwash
Benzoic acid 0.8 % or parts
Boric acid 1.6
Thymol 0.2
Eucalyptol 0.2
Chiorothyrnol 0.1
Alcohol 18.0
100.00
Astringent Mouthwash No.2

Zinc Chloride 0.1 parts
Menthol 0.05
Oil of cinnamon 0.13
Oil of cloves 0.05
Solution of formaldehyde 0.05
Soluble saccharine 0.04
Alcohol 4.5
Colour, as desired
100.00
U
Cinnamon Type Mouthwash

Zinc chloride US? 16 parts
Saccharine US? 3
Formaldehyde US? 4
Hydrochloric acid US? (Conc. 36%) 2
Glycerin USP 13
Alcohol 38-B with menthol & cassia 32
Oil of cassia USP
Amaranth powder
ThIc 15
Distilled water q.s. to make 100
Antiseptic Mouthwash
Boric acid US? 25.0 parts
Thymol 1.0
Eucalyptol 1.0
Menthol 1.0
Oil of gaultheria 1.0
Oil of thyme white 0.3
Benzoic acid USP 1.0
Floral extract of haptisia (Alcohol 48%) 8.0
Ethyl alcohol 25,0
Talc q.s.
Distilled water q.s. to make 100.0
Dissolve the boric acid in water and the other ingredients in al-
cohol; pour the aqueous solution into the alcoholic solution, add the
talc, and allow the mixture to stand 24 hours with occasional agita-
tion. Then filter, retaining the first portions of the filtrate until it
passes through clear. Add rest of alcohol to the filtrate and then
sufficient water to make the product measure 100 cc.
Mouthwashes, Special Types

Piocarpine—For Dry Mouth Relief
Pilocarpine, as a free base, occurs as colourless crystals with a
melting point of 34°C and is soluble in water and ethyl alcohol.
P"
Pilocarpine and its nitrate and hydrochloride salts, have long been
known as parasympethomimetic agents. Ingestion of pilocarpine or
its salts causes stimulation of the GI tract and stimulation of various
glands, such as salivary glands, pancreas and mucosal cells in the
respiratory tract.
Pilocarpine salts mentioned above in 10 mg dosages, three times
aday temporarily restored salivation in patients suffering from thy
mouth. But this method has a disadvantage as ingestion of pilo-
carpine may also produce undesirable side effects such as increased
sweating, constriction of pupils, increased heart rate, increased gas-
tric secretion in the stomach and increased bronchial secretions
and to obtain relief the patient is required to follow a restricted diet.
It was found that pilocarpine as a free base or as a salt may be
non digestively administered as a topical application in the form of a
diluted solution to the mucosa lining of the mouth of patients suffer-
ing form dry mouth condition to produce a long acting relief from
such conditions without undesirable systemic side effects. Pilocarpine
hydrochloride as a dilute solution of 0.75 to 1% W/w in a mouth
wash carrier is effective when gargled to produce long lasting re-
lief from dry mouth condition. Since pilocarpine and its salts are
bitter it is better to use a sweetened mouth wash carrier in order to
mask the bitter taste.
Pilocarpine hydroxide 0.025 to 1%
Sweetener I
Water q.s.
This is specially useful to patients suffering from drug induced
dry mouth, resulting from treatment with antidepressant, antipsy-
chotic, antihypersensitive, and antiallergic medications.
For Removing and Preventing Dental Plaque

A method has been developed for removal of dental plaque and or
dental calculus from teeth and the prevention of their formation. The
process involves keeping the teeth in contract with a sufficient and
effective amount of mouthwash. The mouthwash is a liquefied com-
position of an effective amount of fatty acid compound prepared from
an unsubstituted, unsaturated fatty acid having at least one double bond,

a liquid carrier, an effective amount of a buffering agent and an effec-
tive amount of ethanol. The pH of the liquefied composition is between
8 and 11.
A flavou rant or flavou rants, in small amounts can be added, which
when mixed with saliva forms a protective film.
There is an oral formula containing proportions of ingredients
resulting in the formation of a tenacious protective film when the
rinse is mixed with saliva in the mouth the protective film produced
by repeated (daily) use of such oral rinse formula has been found to
give teeth a high lusteror shine, reduce plaque attachment, diminish
calculus attachment, ngival caries, reduce the discomfort of aph-
thous ulcers and promote the healing of such ulcers as well as of
cuts and abrasions in the mouth, and reduce and control sensitivity
around the crowns and roots of teeth.
Sodium olcate 5
Ethanol 15
Disodium hydrogen phosphate to adjust to pH 8-1I q.s.
Distilled water to make 100
This mouthwash is particularly effective in preventing cavities

or caries around metal teeth braces.
Zinc Sulphate Plus Ascorbic Acid

All the causative factors in the etiology of a healthy oral conditions are
not known. It is known however that a Suction in the amount of zinc
ions or in the amount of ascorbic acid available to nourish the oral
tissue adversely affect their physiological tone. However, how much
of this is the result of enzymatic, microbial and other factors has not
been determined. It was clinically observed that sometimes the oral
tissue becomes inflamed and susceptible to bacterial attack.
It is known thai deficiency in diet of ascorbic acid or zinc ren-
ders the gingival cavity more prone to bacterial attack. However,
excess amount of ascorbic acid or zinc in diet does not necessarily
increase their content in the saliva or have a beneficial effect on
the oral tissues. Nevertheless, it has been found that a combination
of zinc ions and ascorbic acid provides a therapeutic composition,
which improves the physiological tone of oral tissues apart from
providing an effective solution against oral mocroflora responsible
for plaque
Ethyl alcohol (95%) 20 parts
Zinc sulphate
Ascorbic acid
Glycerin 10
Watcrq.s. 100
This type is useful in gingivitis and periodontitis.
Formula to Form Protective Dental Film
Sodium fluoride 22 parts

Menthol 0.1
Oil of cinnamon 0.13
Oil of clove 0.05
Sodium saccharin 0.08
Ethyl alcohol 6
Distilled water q.s. 100
DENTAL CARE SPECIAL PRODUCTS
Denture Cleaners
Dispersion of dicalcium phosphate in montmorillonite clay has long
been known as a suitable polishing agent especially for relatively
soft surfaces. It finds application as a polishing agent for denti-
frices, silver furniture and allied items.
One problem in using dicalcium phosphate is that it is difficult to
create the sufficiently fine particle size necessary for its potential uses.
A method has been provided by researches to reduce the par-
ticle size of dicalcium phosphate by a process of utilizing sodium
montmorillonite clay to form a stable suspension without effecting
the basic physicochemical properties of the negatively charged
montmorillonite platelet.
Another object is to provide a suspension of finely divided
dicalcium phosphate in the finest particle size range free of any
tendency for crystal growth.
When dicalcium phosphate is processed as described herein with
a sodium montmorillonite clay, it has been found to create an ex-
tremely effective and useful product for polishing and cleaning.
Denture Cleansing Powder
Sodium tripolyphosphate 20.0 parts
Aerosil (finely divided Si0 2) 0.5
Sodium laury! sulphate 0.3
Peppermint oil 0.5
Sodiumsaccharin 0.1
Urea 78.0
Sodium benzoate 0.6
100.0
Effervescent Soak
In this category of denture soak formulas, some contain oxidizing
agents as the source of effervescence, others a carbonate as the
source from which carbon dioxide is liberated, and still others utiliz-
ing both oxidizing agent and carbonation agents (a carbonate plus
an acid capable of releasing carbon dioxide) in a single composi-
tion. One of the problems encountered with these formulations is
the lack of stability, largely due to the hygroscopic nature of the
ingredients.
It has been found that a stable and effective denture soak prod-
uct can be formulated by the addition of solid acid anhydride to a
composition comprising oxidising agents, an inorganic carbonate
and an organic acid. Specific examples of acid anhydride include,
boric anhydride, succinic anhydride, adipic anhydride etc., to name
a few, containing at least 30% by weight of urea.
There exists a need for a cleaning agent which effects quick and
Oral Hygeriic Products • 125
complete cleaning of the denture from the food particles collected

particularly on the plaque. It has been found that such a composi-
tion must contain atleast 30% by weight of urea based on the total
composition apart from other requisite substances for a complete
end product.
A composition with a particularly quick and intensive cleaning
capacity is obtained when the composition contains about 48% by
weight or more of urea, the upper limit being 80% by weight of
urea.
Dentifrice Speckles
Speckled macroscopic visible particles for oral paste or powder
dentifrice compositions may contain in addition to organic binder
one or more functional and/or aesthetic components of the denti-
frice. The incorporation of speckles into such dentifrices in addi-
tion to enhancing appearance, has an added advantage when a
functional or active ingredient of a dentifrice is present in the speck-
ling material. These functional components when distributed ho-
mogeneously through the dentifrice can be rendered less effective
due to their tendency to react with other functional dentifrice com-
ponents, particularly on ageing.
However, their inclusion as speckles tends to keep them isolated
thereby permitting greater scope in formulations of dentifrice. The
incorporation of functional components into speckles provides sat-
isfactory stability of the component until release.
Preparation of Speckles
Glyceryl tristearate 99.5 parts

Oil soluble (chlorophyll) colour index 7581075810 0_5
100.00
The glyceryl tristearate is melted and agitated with chlorophyll.
The resultant molten green mass is heated to about 80°C, in a vet-
ticalshaft mixer having a large diameter-mixing blade for 2 minutes
at 300 rpm until the mixture becomes homogeneous.
The aqueous dispersion of green spherical particles is filtered to
recover about 90% of yield of green speckles and reserved for

uniform distribution in an oral dentifrice.
Speckling material
Glyceryl Iristearate 79 parts
Zirconium silicate 20
Chlorophyll
Formulations Containing Speckles

Toothpowder % or Part % or Parts
Calcium carbonate 46.997 Glycerol 99.3% 19.8
Magnesium phosphate 0.2 CIVIC 8.5
Trisodium pyrophosphate 0.3 Sodium benzoate 0.5
Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 46.3 Tetra sodium pyrophosphate 0.3
Sodium N-buroyl sarcosinate 5.7 Magnesum phosphate 0.2
Mint flavour q.s. Water 19.9
Glyceryl tristerate 0.5 Calcium carbonate 5.0
Chlorophyll 0,003 Dicalcium phosphate 48.797
Sodium N-lauryl sarcosjnate 5.7
Mint flavour 0.8
Glyceryl tristearate 0.5
Chlorophyll 0.003
100
Two Layer Cleansing Tablet
A two-layered denture cleansing tablet adapted for the self acting

cleaning of dentures in an aqueous solution are also available these
days in market.
OTHER FORMULATIONS
Chewing Gums Containing Plaque Inhibitors
Dental plaque is a product of microbial growth originating from

residual food in the mouth. Plaque accumulates on the teeth and in
the oral cavity. It is removed to some extent by brushing of teeth.
However, some areas in the mouth are unaccessible and are sus-
ceptible to plaque and eventually calculus growth.
Several compositions have been provided for the purpose of in-
hibiting or reducing plaque in the oral cavity. But the most preferred
and effective vehicle is found to be chewing gum.
Chewing Gums for Improvement of Saliva Flow

A gum composition packaged in stick form, has been developed. It
contains gum base, fillers, in water based emulsifiers with dissolved
solids and salts. In only about 15 minutes of chewing a very sub-
stantial quantity of salt solution is brought into the saliva and oral
cavity tobathe the teeth and gum.
Tablet Toothpowder
Some manufacturers have come forward with toothpowder in tab-
let form.
rr
L'J
Hair Care
Products
AIR DRESSING ONE type or the other has always enjoyed fasci-
ation among men and women over the ages. The tombs of
Egyptian Kings (3500 BC) show evidence of use of perfumed hair
oils while the Romans and Greeks used available fats and oils for
personal grooming.
Most of the products in the earlier days were home made or
derived from secret recipes containing wines, herbs, animal and
plant by-products.
By the end of the 19" Century, some popular brands were sys-
tematically developed in collaboration with technical men with the
objective of providing cosmetic elegance besides consumer accep-
tance of the product.
The scalp normally secretes oil sebum which gives a protective
coating to the hair and prevents loss of moisture, keeps the hair in
place and provides luster. It also protects the hair and scalp form
harsh atmospheric and changing conditions. Lack of sufficient flow
of oil causes dehydration of hair which makes the hair brittle allow-
ing it to split and break.
Animal, vegetable or mineral oils and water have been judiciously
incorporated in hair grooming preparations in order to give an ideal
product.
Hair Care Products • 129
PRODUCTS OF A GOOD HAIR DRESSING
A consumer acceptable hair dressing product will give the hair good
grooming, luster without greasiness, protection from the elements
and hair conditioning to a certain extent.
Luster
For luster a glossy material is required, say an oil or a fat or a
solubilized fat which is absorbed on the air shaft.
Cohesion and Adhesion

For grooming cohesion and adhesion are two basic necessities to
be fulfilled. In other words the product must adhere to the hair
fiber and provide cohesion to avoid an unruly condition. In addition
to these two properties the material incorporated must possess an-
other important property—lubrication which allows easy combing.
Conditioning
Moisture is the most important feature of conditioning. The oil in
water emulsion and to a lesser extent the water in oil emulsion can
give the best moisturising condition. Lanolin, fatty acid amides and
some long chained quaternary ammonium compounds act as emol-
lients. These along with the fats and oils protect the hair form loss
of moisture and thereby minimize damage by the elements.
Types of Hair Dressings

1. Brilliantines liquid and solid
2. Alcoholic-lotions
3. Two layer system
4. Hair tonics
5. Gum based hair dressing sprays
6. Oil-in-water emulsions
7. Water-in-oil emulsions
Brilliantines
The main purpose of a brilliantine is to add a measure of grooming
and to impart sheen to the hair.
When the natural oils of the hair are either deficient or removed
it has a dull appearance. Oil is the answer for such a problem.
Originally, vegetable and animal-oils were used. Since these natu-
ral oils tend to get rancid, they were substituted by mineral oil. This
oil is not absorbed by hair but provides a thin protective film due to
this low viscosity and penetration. The heavier the oil;the better its
grooming properties, but its spreadibility reduces. Deodorized kero-
sene can be used to dilute the heavy oil to improve spreadability
and penetration and after evaporation of the volatile, deodorized
kerosene, the thin uniform layer of viscous oil deposited on the hair
serves the twin purpose of good grooming apart from imparting
high gloss.
Liquid Brilliantines
Let us look at some liquid brilliantine formulas.
Mineral oil light 100% 75%
Deodorized kerosene - 25%
Color and perfume q.s q.s
After mixing thoroughly, filter the solution. The viscosity of the
mineral oil will vary with the final effect desired, and the method of
application. But a problem of perfuming arises here, although both
mineral oil and deodorized kerosene are relatively odour free, be-
cause of low solubility of perfume ingredients. Resinous and crys-
talline materials are insoluble and may precipitate on standing. Since
brilliance is of utmost importance the effect of ageing, sunlight and
heat on the final product should be studied. Coupling" agents can
be used for clear brilliantine. Even a small percentage of vegetable
oil, a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester or some non-ionic surfactant will
usually solubilize perfume oil.
Here are some liquid brilliantines with natural oils which have
better absorption than mineral oil.
Castor oil 80% 6% 15%
Almond oil 20 49 -
Olive oil - 45 -
Deodorized kerosene - - 85
Colour and perfume - q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Thoroughly mix the ingredients, dissolve colour and perfume and

then filter bright. The natural oils are subject to rancidity and there-
fore require anti-oxidants like tocopherols, octyl, dodecyl, cetyl, and
stearyl gal lates.
The phenol derivatives like thymol, pyrogallol, p-chloro-m-cresol
are also active preservatives.
Here are some more formulas containing a mixture of mineral
and natural oils.
Mineral oil 99-80% 66% 80% 80%
Oliveoil 1-20 - - -
Peanut oil - 34 - -
Almond oil - - 10 20
Castor oil - - 10 -
Colour and perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Mix all ingredients and theñ filter bright. Lately lanolin has been
figuring in brilliantine compositions. However, because of its low
solubility in mineral oil i'tt' has been found that by using certain fatty
acid esters such as isopropyl mysristate or palmitate having a cou-
pling effect, its solubility can be increased. The addition of these
esters yields an ideal product because of their miscibility, resistance
to rancidity and absorption by hair fiber. Furthermore they impart
emolliency as well as gloss.
Here are some formulas illustrating the use of fatty esters.
Mineral oil 75% 38,5% - -
Ethyl myristate 25 - - -
Castor oil - 38.5 60% -
Isopropyl myristate - 23.0 - -
Ethyl oleate - - 40 -
Methyl oleate - - - 25%
Olive oil - - - 75%
Colour and perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s
A large number of synthetic nonionic materials are available these
days and the one major advantage they have is that of not being
subject to rancidity. Since strong sunlight does have an adverse
effect on the hair, the use of protective additions in brilliantines
dces make sense although mineral oil by itself may be classified as
a protective since it reflects a portion of the ultraviolet light of the
sun spectrum.
Solid Brilliantines
Pomade or solid brilliantine are more or less synonymous. Origi-
nally, a pomade was the residue of fatty material left from enfleurage
process of extracting floral odours. On the other hand brilliantines
are vegetable or mineral oils hardended to desired consistency by
the addition or certain waxes.
Solid brilliantines are very useful for curly or kinky hair because
they hold the hair neatly in place. Solid brilliantines are also popu-
larly used on closely cropped hair. The lubricity is just about enough
to permit uniform spreading and therefore proper grooming.
The products are opaque and the opacity is directly proportional
to the wax content.
Here is a simple formula of solid brilliantine.
Formula 1
Stearic1cid 23%
Mineral oil 77
Colour and perfume q.s.
Procedure
Melt the two ingredients together at 70°C. Add colour and per-
fume. Fill the molten product into jars and cool slowly in a warm
room for 12-18 hours. A marbled product which crumbles at the
touch is obtained.
Paraffin wax looked to be an obvious choice to give body to
mineral oil. However, it presented certain problems like crystalliza-
tion, permitting exudation of oil and shrinking on cooling leading to
the brilliantine curving away from the sides of the jar. With the
incorporation of petrolatum it was found that these problems could
be solved. Here are some formulas containing petrolatum.
Formula 2
Paraffin wax 20% 15%

Mineraloil 50 25
Petrolatum 30 60
Colour and perfume q.s. q.s.
Use of ozokerite, spermaceti or ceresin wax yield better results

in controlling the sweating of mineral oil. Here are some foñnulas
containing these ingredients.
Formulas
3 4 5 6 7 8
Mineral oil 67% 42% 86% 56% 70% 75%
Ceresm U 8 - - -r -
Lanolin 22 - - - - -
Petrolatum - 50 - - - 8
Spermaceti - - 10 22 5 -
Beeswax - - 4 22 - -
Paraffin wax - - - - 15 -
Stearic acid - - - - 10 -
Ozokerite - - - - - 17
Colour and perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Melt together all the materials at the lowest possible temperature.
Add perfume as cooling occurs and fill into warmed jars. Allow to
cool slowly. Care must be taken now to work the materials, par-
ticularly when partially solidified, in order to avoid air bubbles.
Vegetable oils have been used in solid as well as liquid brillian-
tines. Formulas hereunder are suggested to indicate general pro-
portions of oils to waxes.
Formulas
9 10 II 12 13
Castor oil 50% - - 80% 44%
Almond oil 30 85% - - -
Spermaceti 20 It) - - -
Coca butter - 5 - -_
Coconut Oil - - 75% _-. -
Ceresin - 25 - -
Beeswax - - - 20 -
Petrolatum - - - - 44
Colour and perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. qs.
The synthetic waxes and some of the high molecular weight
polyoxyethylene derivatives could be used but care must be taken
in formulation since they are very lipophilic.
The perfuming of solid brilliantines is easier than that of clear
liquid preparations. The amount of perfume used in solid brilliant-
tines in usually higher than in equal quantity of liquid brilliantine
since it is less volatile in the more viscous medium and since a
much less quantity of grooming material is applied to hair.
Alcoholic Lotions
Alcoholie lotions have been popular since the beginning of the cen-
tury. By diluting viscous oils with alcohol good wetting action is
obtained and with the evaporation of alcohol, a thin uniform layer of
oil deposited on the hair. Moreover, the temporary tingling sensa-
tion of the alcohol is liked by many.
Castor oil is a ready choice among fixed oils because of its free
solubility in all proportions in alcohol. Aflother material often used
is glycerol.
Regular use of alcohol on the scalp is undesirable because it

may act as a dehydrating agent. When relative humidity is low,
moisture will be drawn from the scalp and hair, leaving it dry and
brittle. The addition of water reduces degree of dehydration pro-
portionately. Further, alcohol tends to dissolve or extract oil
from the skin and the addition of oils somewhat retards this pro-
cess. As mentioned earlier, glycerol is often used, either by itself or
diluted with alcohol. This too cannot be recommended since it is
extremely hygroscopic leading to further worsening of dehydration
of hair or scalp which may even lead to dandruff formation. Sev-
eral examples of formulas containing the ingredients discussed are
given below.
Formulas
16 17
Ethyl alcohol 50% 80% 60% 83%
Castor oil 50 20 10 IS
Glycerol - - 30 -
Tincture of Senzoin - - - 2
Colour and Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Tincture benzoin is said to reduce stickiness of castor oil.
All the materials are mixed well at room temperature and fil-
tered bright. Perfuming is a problem since castor oil develops a
characteristic odour on ageing although use of deodorized castor oil
may help to reduce the problem. The use of anti-oxidants is not
common in this type of product but is surely worth investigating.
Glycerol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and the newer synthetic oils
have also been used in alcoholic solutions. Here are some examples.
Formulas
19 20
Isopropyl myrstatc 5% - -
Glycerol 5 40% -
Ethyl alcohol 90 40 96%
Water - 20 -
Oleic acid - - 4
Colour and Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s.
Newer non-rancidifying materials have emerged for the formu-
lation of hydro alcoholic hairdressings. They are polyalkylene gly-
cols, and are very easily soluble in alcohol or water. Less greasy
products can be obtained than with some of the other oils. Large
quantities of water can be added than with castor oil, which re-
duces dehydration.
Further solubilization of other oils in alcohols has been attempted
for instance with the aid of deodorized kerosene. Formula hereun-
der illustrates such a preparation:
Formula
Ethyl alcohol 54%

Olive oil 19
Kerosene (deodorized) 27
Colour and Perfume q.s.
There is a good number of surface-active agents available (in the
market) these days which could be employed in the above formula.
Hair Tonics
The purpose of hair tonic may be categorised into 3 functions. (I) To
cure baldness, (ii) To relieve oily or dry scalp and (iii) Preventing or
curing dandruff. However, none of the tonics have achieved suc-
cess so far as growth of new crop of hair once it has been lost is
concerned.
In some cases loss of hair can be checked for reasons like wrong
treatment or carelessness leading to clogging of sebaceous glands
and hair follicles, dehydration of scalp, poor circulation or infection.
Proper care, stimulation and prophylaxis create favourable condi-
tions for a healthy hair growth, but cannot stimulate new growth on
baidhead.
Hair Cam Products • 137
A hair tonic usually is a combination of - a sebaceous gland

stimulant, a rubifacient and antiseptic. Rubifacients commonly used
are chloral hydrate (2-4%), formic acid spirits (10-12%) quinine
and its salts (0.1-1.0%), tincture of cantharides (1-10%) and such
tars as cade, preen and birch (0.1-10%).
These materials must be very carefully incorporated especially
in newer formulations with wetting agents because they increase
the flow of blood in the skin and capillaries due to which reddening
occurs. If used in higher concentrations it may lead to irritation or
even necrosis. The formulation must be able to cater to a wide
range of individual sensitivity.
The antiseptics generally used are phenolic compounds and de-
rivatives although phenol by itself is not used due to its toxicity and
irritation. Some important phenolic derivatives include p-chloro-m
cresol, p-chloro-m-xylenol, o-phenyl-phenol, o-chloro-o-phenyl phe-
nol, p-amyl phenol, chlorothymol, resorcinol, and 3-naphthol.
Except resorcinol whidh is used upto 5% all the other antiseptics
used are less than 1% because in higher concentration they may
cause irritation.
Quinine and its salts, tincture ofjaborandi, leaves of pilocarpine,
resorcinol monoacetate, cholesterol, salicylic acid, ethyl alcohol, me-
thyl linoleate, sulphur and lecithin are few claimed "stimulators" of
sebaceous glands.
Hair tonic meant for only scalps are alkaline and generally as-
tringent. Tannin merits mention in this respect. The formulas here-
under are divided into the following categories.
I. To retard loss to hair.
2. To control dandruff and alleviate oily scalp.
3. For dry scalp.
Formulas of Bay Rum Hair Tonics
Jamaica mm 12% 10.0%

Ethyl alcohol 45 50.0
Oil of bay 2 2.0
Glycerol 5 -
Water 36 37.5
Oil of pimento - 0.5
Procedure
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the remainder of the ingredi-
ents, and mix well. Filter bright and bottle.
3 4
Oil of bay 0.15% 0.25%
Oil of cloves 0.15
Ethyl alcohol 60.00 65.00
Tincture of quillaia 10.00
Water 29.55 34.59
Ethyl acetate 0.15
Oil of cinnamon leaf 0.05
Quassia extract, solid 0.10
Hepataldehyde 0.01
Procedure
Dissolve the essential oils in the alcohol, and the ethyl acetate or
heptaldehyde, dissolve the quassia extract in the water with heat,
and mix with the rest of the materials, stir well and filter bright.
Formulations using resorcinol and its monoacetate normally con-
tain a rubifacient, as demonstrated in formulas:
Formulas of Resorcinol Hair Tonics
6 7 9 10
Resorcinol 5% 0.8% 0.3%
Resorcinol monoacetate 3% 2,5%
Tincture of capsicum 5
Chloral hydrate 1.5
Spirits of formic acid 20
Pine tar oil 2.7
Ethyl alcohol 85 80.0 70 93.0
Castor oil 5 - . - 7 -
0-naphthol 0.8 - - -
Sulfonated castor oil 16.9 - - -
Soft soap — 0.5 - -
Potassium sulfate - 3.0 - -
Water — 93.5 - -
Methyl linoleate - - - 2.5
Cinnamon - - - 2.0
Perfume and colour 4,5. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s
Procedure
Add the tinctures and oils to the alcohol in which the resorcinol or
resorcinol mono-acetate has been dissolved; then add perfume and
colour. After stirring well, filter the batch to clarify.
Pilocarpine containing lotions can be prepared from either the
alkaloid or the tincture ofjaborandi, as indicated in formulas:
Formulas of Jaborandi Hair Tonics
II 12
Tincture ofjaborandi 5.0% -
Tartaric acid 0.5 -
Ethyl alcohol 5.0 9.0%
Triple rose water 82.5 -
Glycerol 7.0 -
Pilocarpine nitrate 0.05
Tincture of cantharidine - 0.95
Water - 85.0
Glyceryt borate - 5.0
Perfume q.s. q.S.
Procedure
Prepare same as previous formulations. Great care being taken to

obtain a brilliantly clear product on filtration.
Formulas given below are said to stimulate the sebaceous glands

and to relieve a dry scalp.
Formulas for Dry Scalp Tonics
13 $4
Ammonia water 1.5% -
Sulfonated castor oil 9.5 -
Tincture of capsicum 0.8 -
Ethyl alcohol 88.2 87% 2.500%
Chloral hydrate - 3
Castor oil - 10
Potassium sulfate 5.500
Water 91.690
Hydrochloric acid 0.004
Glacial acetic acid 0.006
Pine tar oil 0.300
Perfume q. s. q.S. q.s.
Procedure
Mix the ingredients well and filter to obtain a brilliant product.
In the case of an oily scalp and mild dandruff cases frequent
shampooing and application of hair tonic specially formulated to
control secretion of the sebaceous glands. Here are some formu-
las with astringents, stimulants, and cleansing agents.
Formulas for Oily Scalp Tonics
16 17 18 '9
Tannin 5.00% -
Fonnladehyde 0.75 -
Water 83.75 32,5% 56.5%
Ethyl alcohol 10.5 - 70% 40.0
Bay mm - 30.0
Rose water - 24.5 6
Ammonia 26°C - 5.0
Glyceryl borate - 7.0 - -
Tincture ofcapscium - 1.0 - 3.0
Eau de cologne essence - - 10 -
Glycerol - - 4 -
Tincture of cinchona - - 4 -
Tincture ofquillaia ,- - 6 -
Chiorothymol - - - 0.1
Quinine sulfate - - - 0.1
Benzonic acid - - - 0.3
Perfume its. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Dissolve the wator-soluble materials in the water, and the oils, tinc-
tures, and perfume in the alcohol. Then mix, stir well, and filter bright.
In order to stimulate blood circulation in the scalp and control the
activity of sebaceous glands regular massage is invaluable. The
inclusion of more antiseptics like the quaternary ammonium com-
pounds or hexachlorophene along with wetting agents, which help
in the penetration of dandruff scales facilitate the removal by sub-
sequent shampooing. However, one has to be aware of the fact
that surfactants inactivate the antiseptics.
Two Layer Lotions

Brilliantines which are greasy in nature have to be diluted with
either water or alcohol. This results in a two-layer system. As a
result of which the contents have to be mixed well before use by
shaking the container. The breaking into two layers can be some-
what corrected by addition of emulsifiers to form an emulsion but
only temporarily. On standing the preparation again breaks into two
separate layers.
It must be noted that the specific gravities of each phase must
be sufficiently different so that it is a clear cut separation over of
wide range of temperatures without inversion occurring. Each phase
should be coloured separately so as to enable complete solution of
the dye without diffusion of colour when the phases are mixed.
Furthermore the perfume used should not cause turbidity or pre-

cipitation at the inter surface.
A simple and inexpensive formulation is mixture of water and
mineral oil with colour and perfume. Water can be substituted in
part or fully by alcohol. This yields a product that dries quickly and
prevents breakage of bottle on freezing.
Formula
20 2! 22
Mineral oil 50% 65% 50%
Water 50% - 32
Ethyl alcohol - 35 IS
Perfume and colour q.s. q.s. q.s.
The mineral oil in turn can be partly replaced by refined veg-
etable oil according to degree of grooming required. Antioxidants
must be added to prevent rancidity. The two phases should be
mixed thoroughly and allowed to stand with intermittent stirring and
finally filtered to give a crystal clear product.
Here are some more formulas of two layer lotions.
23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Mineral oil 50% 32% 80% 28% -
Castor oil 16 2 38% -
Oliveoil 8% 10% 28 -
Deodorized kerosene ——————-5%
Seasameoil tO 32 -
Almond oil — — — — — —
Ethyl alcohol 45 58 58 18 44 57 40
Water 47 34 ————-50
Perfume and colour q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s., q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
There is always the possibility of incorporating tonics in any one

of the phases. However, little work has been done for the type of
product due to its poor demand. The use of fatty alcohols and fatty
esters to obtain more emolliency and sheen could be explored and a

permanent emulsion could be attempted with the help of newer
emulsifiers that are available these days.
Gum Based Hair Dressings

Gum based hair dressing preparation are useful in holding unruly
hair in place for a long time. They do not impart sheen or luster to
the hair.
A variety of gums natural as well as synthetic are available.
Tragacanth and Karaya are popular although seed mucilage has
also been in use. These apart, pectins, Irish moss, gum arabic, gela-
tin, flax seeds, mucilage and water soluble shellac have also
been used. But one big disadvantage with natural materials is the
variation in quality and properties from time to time and source to
source.
The gum content in hair dressings ranges from 0.5%-2% de-
pending on the type of gum and viscosity desired. On standing the
products usually tend to thin due to either microbial decomposition
or enzymatic reaction. A good preservative is therefore a must.
Tragacanth gum is the most popular among gums used. But it
does not disperse easily in water. To avoid air bubbles when the
gum is dissolved in water, and which are very difficult to remove, it
is best to wet the powder with some inert water soluble solvent like
alcohol or glycerol. Moreover, this facilitates bubble free disper-
sion in water.
Karaya gum in equal concentration is more mucilaginous than
tragacanth but disperses more easily in water resulting in a whiter
product. Here again it helps to wet the powder with say alcohol.
Karaya sometimes has a characteristic odour of acetic acid which
may be removed with the addition of borax or a mild alkali.
The products based on gums leave a uniform flexible film or
drying. This holds the hair in place. The drying process can be
quickened with the addition of alcohol upto 10%. Exceeding this
limit will result in precipitation of the gums.
Polyvinyl pyrrolidine, (PVP) an alcohol, is best suited for this
purpose especially when plasticized with glycols, and sorbitol and
water soluble lanolin derivatives or a copolymer or methyl vinyl

ether and maleic anhydride for quick dry, nontacky products as
well as aerosol packing.
Methyl cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose forma film
on drying but because of flaking and unsuccessful attempts to plas-
ticize them lead to their rejection.
Carbopol 934 or synthetic resin and triethanolamine salt too have
shown promise in such preparations.
Polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene glycols (such as the carbo waxes),
soluble starches, and abietic acid esters are some more potential
ingredients for the preparation of mucilaginous hair dressings.
Many preparations produce sheenless and brittle, fibers which
crumble or flake on combing. They can be supplemented with
plasticizers like castor oil, mineral oil and some polyols and compat-
ible newer nonionics to prevent this. Lanolin derivatives which are
water soluble provide excellent plasticity and emollience. Further-
more, the presence of a humectant is necessary to sustain the mois-
ture to keep the film flexible.
Gum based products warrant careful selection of perfume oth-
erwise discolouration will occur on standing.
The formulas presented below are some gum based prepara-
tions.
Formulas for Gum-based Hair Dressings
31 32 33
Gum kamya - - 2%
Gum tragacanth, powdered 1.2% 1.0% -
Ethyl alcohol 15.0 6.0 5
Glycerol 2.0 1.0 -
Castor Oil - 2,0 -
Water 81.8 90.0 93
Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s.
Perfume and colour q.s q.s. q.s.
Hair Care Products ¶ 145
Procedure
First wet the gum with alcohol and stir slowly to expel the air. Add
the glycerol, preservative, castor oil, and perfume, and add all the
water at once. Continue to stir until all the gum is dispersed uni-
formly, Filter or strain and allow to reach its maximum viscosity
upon standing for a few hours. The addition of castor oil aids in
plasticizing the gum film and in preventing dullness.
The addition of mineral oil yields a creamy product, and due to
emulsification by the gum, apparently imparts more sheen but the
strength of the film is reduced. One such formula is given below.
Formula
Gum tragacanth, powdered 1.0%

Isopropyl alcohol 2.0
Glycerol 4.0
Mineral oil, heavy 1.8
Water 91.0
Formaliii 0.2
Perfume and colour q.s
Procedure
Mix the powdered tragacanth with the alcohol, add the glycerol,
perfume and the mineral oil, and then all the water. Stir until the
dispersion is complete and allow to stand for several hours to thicken
up before straining. The appearance of the product can be im-
proved by running it through a homogenizer.
Formulas for Gum-based Hair Dressings
35 36
Sodium alginate 1.25% 1.5%
Glycerol 2.50 3.0
Calcium citrate 0.10 0.3
Distilled water 9615 86.2

Tincture of benzoin - 4.0
Balsam of Peru, 25% - 5.0
Preservative q.s. q.s.
Colour and Perfume q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Add the sodium alginate to half of the water, then add the glycerol
and perfume, and stir well to dissolve. In the meantime, dissolve
the calcium citrate in the remainder of the water, when the alginate,
solution is smooth, pour in the calcium solution. Agitate well and
allow to "body up" by standing a few hours. The glycerol can be
replaced by alcohol, if desired. The viscosity can be increased by
adding more calcium citrate or citric acid. Resins have been added
to modify the film and to give a more opaque product. Add the
tinctures directly to the alginate solutions,
Oil in Water Emulsions
Oil in water preparations were known in Europe for years but came
to be known in America only during World War II. In a way they
owe their introduction to America to the War. Because during this
time alcohols and oils were rationed and the manufacturers had to
turn to other materials. These products were an instantaneous hit
with the consumers not only because of their novelty but also be-
cause of the smooth and attractive finish good pouring and uniform
film of oils on the hair. The greasy feeling is very much reduced
and the residue is easily washable.
Furthermore, in a product like this replacement of some raw
materials by a large portion of water in preparation relieves the
manufacturer of a chunk of production costs.
Stability of emulsion is important for good shelf life. There was
a feeling that these emulsions were probably too stable as a result,
of which the inner phase was not reaching the hair. But later, it was
found that it may be partially true in the case of water-in-oil emul-
sions but not so in oil-in-water emulsions. On application the water
is absorbed by the hair breaking the emulsion. This leaves behind a
film protective of the oils and fats on the oils and fats on the hair
shaft, which provides good grooming and luster.
In an emulsion the interfacial area between oil and water being
large the changes of rancidity and deterioration of the natural oils
and fats are high. Hence the selection of preservatives and anti-
oxidants play a very important role. Since there are different cul-
ture mediums, and since the possibilities of contamination are var-
ied it is difficult to select one particular preservative. It has to be
found by extensive trials to suit the situation.
The preservative must be water-soluble so that it will be present
in aqueous phase. Great care is necessary during manufacture
storage and filing of emulsions in orderto avoid contamination. Two
equally effective, mutually compatible preservatives should in use
alternatively to prevent possible build-up of resistance.
A good emulsion must possess cosmetic elegances, and should
provide gloss, should be non-greasy and easily applicable. Bees
wax is a good gloss enhancer. But it should be well noted that
excess solid content leaves a white deposit on the hair. Also the
use of number of ingredients with a wide range of melting points
results in unstable emulsions particular in freezing condition.
Oil-in-water emulsions provides uniform wetting thanks to the
emulsifiers, which lower the surface tension of the aqueous phase.
With the addition of emollients such as lanolin fatty esters, fatty
acid amides and lecithin to the oils, conditioning can be improved.
The selection of right materials in the oily phase fordesired groom-
ing is necessary. Here petrolatum and waxes not only serve the
purpose of substantiating the emulsions but also improve grooming
effect. Vegetable oils may be preferred to mineral oils to get a
better feel of the residual oils.
Gums and synthetic materials like magnesium aluminum silicate
or polyvinyl pyrrolidone have found use as fixatives and emulsion
stabilizers.
A good formulation for a hair dressing emulsion considers the
following factors: (A) Selection of an appropriate emulsifying agent,
(B) Proper balance between the oil and water phases (C) Correct
viscosity of both phases.
Thus lotions with low oil content tend to foam on application,

while white film deposits are caused due to occluded air bubbles
and large content of stearic acid or other solids. Creaming which is
different from breaking can be corrected by balancing the density
and viscosity of the two phases.
The incorporation of an "antagonistic" emulsifier lends greater
stability to the emulsion. Or in other words to stabilize an oil-in-
water emulsion small quantities of water-in-oil emulsifier such as
lanolin an adsorption base, or a fatty alcohol may be added.
A simple emulsion formula consists of oil water and a sufficient
quantity of emulsifier.
Although there is a large number of emulsifiers available in the
market, hem we shall look into four general groups starting with soaps.
Triethanolamine stearate heads the list of soaps used although
other fatty acid salts have also been used.
Triple pressed stearic acid is commonly used to produce the soap
by direct neutralization. Other acids can also be used. Many oil-in-
water emulsiohs tend to get viscous and freeze in low temperatures
and stop flowing. The addition of small quantity of oleic or another
unsaturated fatty acid to stearic acid rectifies the situation.
Formula
37
Mineral oil 44.0%
Stearic acid 6.0
Water 48.5
Triethanolaniine 1.5
Perfume and colour q.s.
Formula
38
Mineral oil 25%
Triethanolaminc stearaLe 7
Water 65
Bees wax 3
Colour and Perfume q.s
The first formula gives a heavy product and it can be made

thinner by altering oil water ratio as shown in the next formula.
(No. 38)
When the soap is prepared in situ as in formula 37 the emulsion
is thick due to ready and continuous availability of emulsifier at the
oil water interface and very mild agitation is required for the forma-
tion of the emulsion during mixing.
To conclude, the above two formulas illustrate the fact that the
larger the concentration of the dispersed phase the higher the vis-
cosity of the resultant emulsion. As a result thinning of emulsion
occurs on dilution with water.
The formulation hereunder'gives a viscous hair dressing with
good gloss properties due to high wax content. The incorporation
of glyceryl monostearate imparts added smoothness to texture.
Formulas for Emulsified Hair Dressings
39 40
Mineral oil 43.0% 40.0%
Beeswax. white 3.0 1.5
Stearic acid 2.4 3.5
Glyccryl monostearate 0.2 -
Water 48.7 49.0
Tricthanotamine 1.2 1.5
Carnauha wax - 1.0
Stearan,ide - 1.0
Perfume in 33% carbitol solution 1-3 2.5
Colour and preservative q.s q.s
The basic formulas discussed above can be enriched, with the

addition of lanolin as an emollient for the hair, glycerol, propylene
glycol, or other polyols as humectant, to protect the emulsion from
drying out when exposed to air and gums for fixative properties and
to achieve greater stability. Vegetable oils, fatty acids, and esters,
alkanolamides, lanolin esters and lanolin oils for emollience and bet-
ter grooming, some of the following formulas contain emollients
and hurnectants just discussed.
Formula
41
Mineral oil 10.5%
Lanolin, anhydrous 6.4
Stearic acid 4.7
Quince seed mucilage 3.6
Triethanolamjne 1.8
Water 59.0
Preservative q.s
Procedure
Heat the propylene glycol, triethanolamine, and water to 70°C and
pour into the molten fats. When the emulsion is formed add the
quince seed mucilage, and then the perfume. The preservative
should be dissolved in the water phase.
Formula
Carbowax 1500 12,0%

Carbitol 5.0
Stearic acid 5.0
Lanolin 1.0
Triechanolamine 2.0
Potassium hydroxide, 85% 0.1
Sodium alginate, 2% 4.0
Water 69.7
Perfume and preservative q.s
In the second formula soaps other than triethanolamine soap
either alone or together with the latter can be used. Further, min-
eral oil is completely replaced by carbowax 1500, which results in a
less greasy emulsion and has good grooming properties. The pro-
cedure is the same as the first one.
Formula
43
Stearic acid 2%
Cetyl and stearyl alcohol, 10% sulfated 2
Soft white paraffin S
Cocoa butter 4
Mineral oil 50
Water 33
Borax
Colour and perfume q.s
Procedure
Heat the borax and water and add to the hot fats at 75 to 80°C,
with moderate stirring. Continue slow stirring until the emulsion is
cool, adding the perfume at 45°C in to oil phase and the sulfated
alcohol in the water phase to cause emulsification during the mixing
process.
The above formulas contain a combination of emulsifiers, which
yields a better product than one with a single emulsifier. The par-
tially sulfated fatty alcohols on their own are very good emulsifiers,
stearyl alcohol affords body and oleyl alcohol lends softness to the
cream. Triethanolamine sulfate instead of a sodium salt results in a
soft cream or a thinner lotion. Furthermore partially sulfated fatty
alcohols with a shortly acidic (pH) can be used. They protect acid
mantle of the scalp. Citric or tartaric acid may be used in emul-
sions made with sulfated fatty alcohols.
As mentioned earlier an emulsion contains oil and water with
sufficient emulsifier to give the desired viscosity and a stable emul-
sion. Here is one such formula and the one after it for better grooming
properties.
Formula
44
Cera emulsificans 3%
Mineral oil 20%
Water 77
Procedure
Add the heated water to the melt of mineral oil and sulfate alcohols
at 75°C and stir the mixture until it is cool. This gives a fluid lotion
which, due to its low oil content, would be inadequate for control-
ling unruly hair.
Formula
45
Stearyl alcohol 5%
Mineral oil 33
Petrolatum 10
Sodium lauryt sulfate 15% solution 52
Colour and perfume q.s
Procedure
Melt the stearyl alcohol, mineral oil, and petrolatum together to 70°C,
and run this mixture into the warmed sodium lauryl sulfate solution
under agitation. Add the perfume at 45°C. Cetyl alcohol or the
softer myristic alcohol may be used to replace the stearyl alcohol.
A combination of vegetable oils and fats with partially sulfated
fatty alcohols gives less greasy hair conditioners as shown in for-
mulas below.
Formulas for Hair Conditioners
46 47
Ceraemulsilicans 2% 15%
Peach kernel oil IS -
Beeswax I -
Castor oil 3 -
Lanolin, anhydrous - 3
Citric or tartaric acid -
Water 76 81
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s
Procedure
Dissolve the water-soluble materials in the water, heat to 75°C, and
pour into the hot oil phase. Stir until cool and add the perfume at
45°C to 50°C.
The polyhydric alcohol esters of fatty acids notably glyceryl
monostearate have been widely and successfully used to give stable
and attractive emulsions. The self-emulsifying (S.E.) grade of glyc-
eryl monostearate is very popularly used since it does not require
an anxiliary surfactant such as soap to give a stable emulsion.
An emulsions requires upto 3% of glyceryl monostearate
whereas 10% of it will give a cream. The emulsifier reduces greasi-
ness of oils provides good emolliency and is very compatible with
other oils and fats. Another great advantage it has is its easy use.
All the ingredients, water and oils can be mixed together and heated
molten (stage) and stirred. However, it (GMS) is prone to mould
attack, and the use of preservatives is prerogative. Propylene gly-
col stearate in place of the glyceryl ester yields a soft cream. The
number of esters of this type is large and only useful ones are
touched here. Diglycol stearate and laurate are most often used
after glyceryl monostearate.
Some useful esters, produced by reacting the fatty acids with
polyethylene glycol (PEG) are being widely used. (Either a hydro-
philic or lipophilic character can be obtained). Some lotions and
creams are suggested in the following formulas.
Formulas for Hair Conditioners
48 49
Mineral oil 30% 32%
Tegin 6 10
Water 64 50
Besswax - 3
Castor oil - 5
Perfume and preservatives q.s q.s
Procedure
Melt together all these ingredients and agitate until cool. Add the
perfume at about 45°C. At first, the emulsion will have a very
characteristic gelled appearance, but upon, cooling this will thin out
to a smooth emulsion.
The purpose of lotions is usually for hair-grooming whereas the
creams, with a higher solid content are useful for hair conditioning
and treatments.
Formula 48 is a soft cream. The addition of bees wax for luster
and vegetable oils in place of mineral oil lends variety to formula 49.
As already discussed humectants are added to retard drying of a
cream, and the addition of fatty alcohols and lanolin provides a twin
action; viz., emolliency and auxilIary emulsification. By using fatty
acid condensation of sorbitol and manitol and their polyoxyeihylene
derivatives known as spans and tweens oil-in-water emulsions can
be made with less than 50% watercontent and with the availability
of a large number of emulsifiers it all boils down to the nature of
fatty materials and oils used.
Two formulas, the first one a free-flowing hair dressing and the
other a cream are given below.
Formulas of Emulsified Hair Dressings
50 51
Petrolatum 6.0% 15%
Mineral oil 37.5 10
Lanolin 3.0 20
Beeswax 12.0 12
Arlacel 83 3.0 -
Arlacel 20 1.0 -
Span 60 - 5
Tween 20 2.0 -
Tween 60 - 5
Borax 0.5 I
Water 35.0 32
Perfume and Preservatives q.s q.s
Procedure
Heat the oil phase plus the emulsifiers to 70°C. and the aqueous
phase to 72°C and slowly add the latter, with agitation. Add the
perfume at 45°C and stir continuously until cool.
Water in Oil Emulsions
A water-in-oil emulsion was first introduced in the year 1864. This

emulsion simply consisted of Almond oil and lime water and had to
be shaken well before use. Although there have been subsequent
developments, these type of emulsions could never achieve the same
type of stability as oil-in-water emulsions. Yet despite their ten-
dency to break into two separate layers of oil and water. They
have been widely accepted because of their creamy texture and
ability to provide excellent grooming and sheen.
The film that is formed on the hair is water resistant and this
property makes it popular with regular swimmers and is very useful
in rainy climates.
Generally, humectants are not required for these type of formu-
lations. The outer phase consists of the oily phase. This is what
renders them light as a result of which the product can be used for
treatment as well as hair grooming. Formulas containing one or
more of the above mentioned ingredients.
Formulas of Hair Creams
52 53 54 55 56
Tegin 12% 9,0% 13.5% 12% 3.0%
Mineral oil 2 25.0 8.5 2 8.0
Lanolin 4 3.5 10
Cetyl alcohol - 1.5
Bees wax - 1.0 '.5
Triethano]aniine stearate 7
Water 75 59.0 59.5 68 78
Glycerol - 4.5 4.5 3 5.0
Cholesterol esters - 9.0
Spermaceti - 5 2
Petrolatum - 3.0
Stearic acid - 1,0
Perfume and Preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s 4.5
Diglycol stearate and laurate can freely replace glyceryl

monostearate as shown in the following formula.
Formulas of Hair Creams
57 58 59
Diglycol laurate 14%
Diglycol stearate 7% 8%
Mineral oil 20 36.0
Water 73 60 50
Castor oil 16
Almond oil 16
Perfume and preservative 4.5 4.5 q.s
Formula
60
Stearyl alcohol 0.6%
Absorption base 2.5.
Diglycol distearate 6.0
Isopropylamine 0.3
Mineral oil 32.0
Stearic acid 0.6
Water 58.0
In formula 60 the isopropyl amine strengthens the diglycol stear-
ate as an oil-in-water emulsifier while the absorption base plays the
role of an antagonistic auxiliary emulsifier. This combination is of-
ten used to prevent an emulsion from breaking during application.
An antagonistic emulsifier is there to remove the watery feel of the
emulsion, while it is being rubbed into the scalp.
As a result the oil-in-water emulsion instead of separating can
invert in a multiphase one and the smooth feel is relained till the
end. Some formulas with polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives.
61 .62 63
PEG 300 monostearate - - 10.0%
PEG 400 monostearate 6.0% 4% -
PEG 400 monolaurate 0.5 1 -
Lanolin 1.0 1 -
Polyethylene glycol 2.5 - -
Water 90.0 92 54.5
Propylene glycol - 2 -
Bees wax - - 8.0
Stearic acid - - 8.0
Mineral - - 18.0
Triethanolamine - - 1.5
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
For formulas 61 and 62: Heat all the ingredients to 70°C to 75°C
stir well, and cool with moderate agitation.
Procedure for formula 63: Pour the triethanolamine water solution
into the heated oils at 70 to 75°C. Add the perfume at about 45°C
as usual.
The water-in-oil emulsions are more sought after by men folk

rather than woman probably due to their high grooming property
and oily feel.
Several types of emulsifiers as well as combinations of emulsifi-
ers have been used to prepare water-in-oil emulsions. Beeswax
and borax have been in use for a long time though polyvalent soaps
are the oldest.
Calcium oleate and stearate prepared from lime water were origi-
nally used as emulsifiers before being replaced by a more stable
magnesium salt. Use of a combination of water-in-oil emulsifiers
has been found to be more effective rather than a single one.
The first formula is a simple water-in-oil emulsion. But is not
very stable. The formulas following it contain beeswax or other
waxes to add gloss; further the stability and eniolliency of the emul-
sion are increased with the addition of vegetable oil instead of min-
eral oil and lanolin.
Formula
64
Mineral oil 49%
Stearic acid
Lime water 50
Perfume and preservative q.s.
Procedure
Melt the stearic acid in the mineral oil and add the lime water after
heating to about the same temperature. Stir until cool and add the
perfume at about 45°C.
65 66 67 68
Mineral oil 45% - - 48.0%
Oleic acid 12 20% 10% -
Beeswax 2 1 1.5 2.5
Lanolin 2 0.5 - -
Lime water 19 33.5 53.8 -
Saccharated lime water 20 5 - -
Olive oil - 40 32.7 -
Magnesium sulfate, 25% - - 2.0 -
SLearicacid - - - 1.0
Absorption base - - - 5.0
Petrolatum - - - 12
Magnesium oleate - - - 2.5
Water - - - 29.0
Perfume and preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Add the aqueous phase at 70 to75°C to the heated oils, with moder-
ate agitation, and stir until cool. In formula 67, add the magnesium
sulfate solution after the lime emulsion has been prepared, and then
stir the emulsion until cool.
The formula below is based on the beeswax borax emulsifying
system.
Formula
69
Beeswax, white 2.5
Mineral oil 62.55
Water 34.8
Borax 0.15
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Melt the wax in half of the mineral oil and add the hot water. Then
add the remainder of the oil. Homogenization is of general value
with this formula.
The following formula of a hair cream utilises a combination of
emulsifiers.
Formula
70
Mineral oil 40.0%
Petrolatum 19.4
Beeswax, white 17.6
Oleic acid 0.4
Lanolin absorption base 0.8
Borax 0.4
Magnesium sulfate 1.0
Sodium hydroxide 0.4
Water 20.0
Procedure
Dissolve the magnesium sulfate and the sodium hydroxide in half of
the water and the borax in the other half. Mix the two aqueous
phases and add to the heated oils, both at 65°C. Stir until cool to
45°C then add the perfume and pass through a homogenizer.
Absorption bases formulated from lanolin, lanolin alcohols,
cholesterol or cholesterol esters in combination with mineral oil,
petrolatum and waxes hold a large quality of water to form water-
in-oil emulsions. In fact, creams are produced rather than lotions,
the absorption bases play an important role in imparting high grooming
properties, stability, gloss and finish (fine texture) to the creams.
In short, a stable water-in-oil emulsion, simply consists of a right
combination of absorption base and water.
The addition of bees wax and mineral oil produces a thinner
emulsion with more gloss as illustrated in formulas given below.
Formulas for High-gloss Hair Emulsion
71 72
Absorption base 63% 6.00%
Beeswax - 100%
Mineral oil - 60.25
Glycerol - 1.50
Triethanolamine I 0.25
Water 36 29.00
Perfume q.s. q.S.
Procedure
Melt the oil phase and heat to 70°C to 75°C and slowly pour the hot
triethanolamine solution into the oil phase, with good agitation. A
polyphase emulsion is formed first, but upon continued agitation
and cooling, this changes substantially to a water-in-oil emulsion,
and no further water can be added. Homogenization will increase
the stability of the emulsion.
Arlacel 83 (Sorbitan sesquioleate) can be used in any of the
system discussed and it gives stable lotions with low viscosity with
40%-50% water content. The formulas below show its use along
with other emulsifiers.
Formulas of Low-viscosity Hair Emulsions
73 74 75 77
Mineral oil 45.00% 37.5% 36,5% 33.0%
Petrolatum 8.00 7.5 8.0
Beeswax 3.00 2.0 2.0 3.5
Absorption base 7.00 -
Arlacel 83 4,00 3.0 3.0
Lanolin - 3.0 0.5 4.0
Lanolin esters 10.0
Ceralan 5.0
Zinc stearate - 1.0 -
Water 32.25 45.5 49.7 44.0
Borax 0.75 0.5 0.1 0.5
Magnesium sulfate - -i-. 0.2
Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Procedure
Add the aqueous phase slowly to the oil phase at about 75°C, with
moderate agitiation. Continue to stir while cooling, and add the
perfume below 45°C. Homogenization, although not necessary,
will greatly add to the shelf stability of these water-in-oil emulsions.
Care must be taken to carry this out at a given constant tempera-
ture range, lest the viscosity vary from batch to batch.
In the above formulas the beeswax-borax system is in use with
the addition of sometimes an absorption base or a polyvalent soap.
Hair Straighteners
The general tendency of an individual with straight hair is to crave

for curly hair and one with curly hair for straight hair. However,
only in the 1940's, the operation of hair straightening became as
easy effective and safe as hair curling.
Cross-sectional examinations of hair shaft indicated: that straight
hair appeared circular and curly or kinky hair appeared like a very
oblate spheroid. Although this theory has been accepted, it is by no
means uncontested.
Whatever it maybe, the simplest and oldest method of hair straight-
ening was by way of plastering down the hair with gums orrein-
otis-fatty vehicles as shown in the following formulas.
Formula 1
Quince seed 3%
Ethyl alcohol 25
Water 72
Procedure
Soak the quince seed overnight in 50 parts of water. Strain the

resulting mucilage through a cloth and add the balance of the water,
alcohol, colour and perfume.
Formula 2
Gum karaya 1.5%
Ethyl alcohol , 5.0
Glycol hon-borate 1.5
Water 92.0
Preservative, colour and perfume q.s.
Procedure
Make a mucilage of karaya, then add alcohol, and water. Add the
glycol bori-borate, colour and perfume prior to passing through a
colloid mill.
Formula 3
Petrolatum 90%
Paraffin 10
Procedure
Melt petrolatum and mix with paraffin and add perfume and colour,
as desired.
In formula 3 paraffin wax may be replaced by bees wax or
ozokerite. Normally paraffin is preferred because it is less expen-
sive. Ceresin is also used if a hard product is needed. Certain
resins can also be added iii this type of a product. The degree of
tackiness is directly related to wax content. Above 20% of wax
content yields to hard a product for easy application.
The product of formula 3 enjoys popular usage among male popu-
lation having too short a hair for recent techniques of hair straight-
eners to deal with.
The three formulas mentioned above have some disadvantages.
They do not effect hair chemically. Their efficacy is exclusively
based on their sticky qualities..
When curly hair is not changed chemically, it returns to its nor-
mal state. Moisture enhances this process. Bearing this in mind
pomades with water repellents like aluminium stearate were made.
But they proved to be ineffective, as they could not shield the hair
from water vapour. Here is one such preparation.
Formula 4
Petrolatum 95%
Aluminium distearate 5
Procedure
Melt the petrolatum and add the aluminium distearate, perfume and
colour.
Mme C.J. Walker conceived the idea of straightening the hair by
the physical rather than the chemical methods. A hot metal comb
and petrolatum jelly were used and the procedure was called "hair
pressing".
In this method, the hair is washed and dried completely. Then
the petrolatum product is applied to the hair. The hot comb is then
passed through the hair which as a result of which the hair is
stretched.
Here the petrolatum or "pressing oil" acts as a conductor
between the hair and the comb and serves as a lubricant enabling
easy passage of the comb through the hair without sticking and
pulling. This method is used by both men and women. The press is
used to straighten the hair, which is the one and only procedure
used for males.
The second press is employed by women. It is equivalent to the
general procedure of hair styling and curling which fascinates a
majority of them. This second press uses croquignole irons. The
second press solely used by women, as males seldom prefer waved
hair.
Laboratory trials indicate that a cooling period is required be-
tween the first and sthbnd press for a long lasting wave. Care must
be taken while using the hot comb and croquignole iron in order to
prevent the singeing of hair. This method is widely followed proce-
dure of straightening women's hair both in beauty shops and at
home.
There are limitations as far as the hot press method is concerned.
It does not insure a permanent wave set. Water and perspiration
Hair Cam Products • 165
have caused embarrassments to persons using this method although
water repellents were used but with little success,
The hot press method is to overcome resistance offered by very
curly hair to hair styling. But a person with straight hair can drive a
certain satisfaction by simply moistening the hair with water and
curling on rods and drying.
A simple formula (No.5) gives a product that is used with hot
combs and the following one (No.6) a little more complex.
Formula 5
Petrolatum 100%
Procedure
Melt the petrolatum and add the perfume and colour.
Formula 6
Beeswax 7.00%
Ceresin 3.00
Petrolatum 30.00 -
Mineral oil 30,00
Water 29.25
Borax 0.75
Perfume ' q.s.
Procedure
Melt the oils and waxes on a water bath and bring to 70°C. Dis-
solve borax in water and bring to 72°C. Add latter solution to oil-
wax mixture, with rapid agitation at first. After all the water is
added, continue agitation slowly, cooling to 55°C, at which time the
perfume is added. Continue to cool with agitation to 40°C. and fill
intojars.
Formulas 7 and S represent yet another more recent type of hair
straightener with caustic alkali.
The consistency of these creams is related to the quantity of
stearate or stearic acid and oleic acid used. The alkali employed,
sodium hydroxide is proportional to the base used. Normally it does

not exceed 5-9%. The increase in alkali provides quicker action or
the hair but at the same time greater caution is to be exercised in
application.
This type of product with alkali is preferred by men who prefer
straight hair and require no styling.
Formula 7
Sodium hydroxide 5%
GAyceryl monostearate IS
Glycerol 5
Water 75
Perfume qs.
Procedure
Heat the glyceryl monostearate, glycerol, and water to 95°C. Cool

to 60°C, and then add the sodium hydroxide, which has been dis-
solved in a small amount of water. Cool with agitation to 40°C and
perfume, and fill. It is important that the sodium hydroxide not be
added at too high a temperature; otherwise the glyceryl
monostearate will be saponified.
Formula 8
Stearic acid 15%

Oleic acid S
Glycerol 5
Sodium hydroxide 10
Water 65
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Dissolve the sodium hydroxide and glycerol in the water and heat
to 90°C. Heat the stearic acid and oleic acid to 95°C and add to the
water solution with agitation. Cool with agitation to 40°C, add per-
fume and fill.
It may be noted that high alkali content in formula 8 warrants
caution on the label for the benefit of the users.
An example of one such label is given below.
Place a little petrolatum along the hairline and on the ears before
starting to use. Apply the product to the hair above forehead.
Be careful not to allow the straightener to drop on the skin. Comb
the straightener through the hair in an upward movement away
from the scalp. Repeat the combing until the hair becomes as
straight as you desire it. When straight, wash the hair in running
water to remove the hair straightener. Rinse the hair until the
soapy feeling is gone. Then wash with shampoo thoroughly.
Rinse with lukewarm water. Do not retain this rinse water; use
fresh water for every rinsing. Be sure not to use hot water.
If the hair is not thoroughly washed, the hair will turn red
quickly and may break off at the scalp. When the hair is com-
pletely and thoroughly washed, apply hair pomade. It is sug-
gested that you take the hair straightener to a barber to apply if
you don't know how. The manufacturer does not assume any
responsibility for the results if improperly used. The majority of
the people can use the straightener without any bad results. How-
ever, some, through careless handling, will burn and discolour
the hair. This is a result of the action of the individual and not the
straightener.
Thioglycolates
With the acceptance of thioglycolates permanent hair straighten-
ers, based on this group of chemicals, appeared in the market. They
were much higher priced due to greater ingredient costs.
However, the introduction of this type of a product was not smooth
due to:
I. Preparations being very different from the previous ones.
2. The necessity to provide highly detailed instructions to the
user, which made the manufacturers job that much more
elaborate.
The introduction of thioglycolate products into the market did not

come through without resistance from some quarters. Some medi-
cal writers were critical of the use of thioglycolates in anticipation
of possible damages it would do to the hair. However, these prod-
ucts weathered all storms and finally they were accepted at least
for waving if not for straightening.
A formula for a hair straightener has to consider in particular,
the vehicle. This is secondary in a cold permanent wave although
both products contain more or less same ingredients and encounter
similar manufacturing and packaging problems.
In the case of waving process the hair is curled on curlers whereas
in straighteners it is necessary to have a viscous and adhesive base
that will keep the hair somewhat straight. A practical method has
not been found yet and the day it is found a major problem in hair
straightening will have been solved. Periodic combing and stretch-
ing, causes for many complaints when not properly done, can be
done away with.
A majority of thioglycolate straighteners available commercially
are of oil-in-water type of emulsions. Viscous liquids are also avail-
able. Formula 9 represents such a preparation.
Formula 9
Glyceryl monostearaLe 15.0%

Stearic acid 3.0
Ceresin 1.5
Paraffin 1.0
Thioglycolic acid 6.6
Ammonium hydroxide (26 0) 20.0
Perfume q. s.
Procedure
Mix the glyceryl monostearate, stearic acid, paraffin, and sodium

lauryl sulfate in a kettle, with 40 parts of the water, and heat, with
constant agitation, to 95°C. Then coo! to 50°C, still under agitation.

While this is being done, add the thioglycolic acid to the remaining
water and to this solution slowly add the ammonium hydroxide. As
considerable heat is generated, it is necessary to provide some
method of cooling to keep the temperature below 50°C. For this
reason, it is preferable to use ammonium hydroxide by 16 pans.
Slowly add the aqueous thioglycolare solution to the stearate mix-
ture, both being at 50°C. It is important that the thioglycolate solu-
tion is not to be allowed to go above 50°C; otherwise there will be
a decomposition of the ammonium thioglycolate. Care should be
taken that the thioglycolate solution is mixed in thoroughly as it is
added. Cool the resulting mixture rapidly to 40°C, to avoid saponi-
fication of the glyceryl monostearate, add perfume, and package.
The control of free ammonia and of thioglycolate content is most
important. The final product is assayed for the thioglycolate ion
and the assay expressed as percentage of thigolycolic -acid. Any
adjustment due to loss of water during manufacture should be made
to bring the thioglycolic acid within the range of 6.4 to 6.8%. Like-
wise, the free ammonia should be determined and adjusted to lie
between 0.8 and 0.9%.
As variations, in place of ammonium radical, sodium salts or
amines, such as monoethanolamine may be used.
Many manufactures recommend the usage of a neutralizer with
thioglycolate as well as permanent wave products. The most popular
neutralizers are perborate or bromate oxidizing mixtures, provided
proper packaging precautious insuring stability are taken. Some
variations incorporate surfactants for greater solubility and pen-
etration and others vary the pH suitable to their needs.
A liquid bromate preparation is described in formula 10.
Formula 10
Sodium bromate 14%

Propylene glycol 2
Lanolin, anhydrous 2
Sorbitan monopalmitate
Sorbitan trioleate 2
Sodium celyl alcohol sulfate 3

Water 76
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Dissolve the sodium bromate in the water and propylene glycol and
heat to 60°C. Add the mixture of the remaining ingredients, which
have been heated to 60°C. Cool to 35°C, with agitation, add per-
fume, and package. Because of the high concentration of salt (so-
dium bromate), this product may have a tendency to separate over
a period of time, especially in hot weather. It is therefore advisable
to use a 'shake well' label.
There have been debates within the cosmetic industry on the
value of neutralizers being included in hair straighteners as well as
waving preparations.
Nevertheless, hair straighteners can derive certain benefits with
the incorporation of a neutralizer.
In order to insure optimum activity a greater deal of control is
necessary in the manufacture of thioglycolates than some other
cosmetic products. Further, all raw materials must be thoroughly
checked for metallic content including the perfume and the free
alkali to be uniform. Iron, manganese and cobalt are to be avoided
as they may cause catalytic decomposition of the mercaptan. The
raw materials used for thioglycolates must fulfil the following con-
ditions as per the directive of the Toilet Goods Association.
Tablet: Toilet Goods Association Specification for Thioglycolates
Ash 0.05% maximum
Thioglycolate 45 to 55% as Lhioglycolic acid
Dithioglycolate 2% max. as thioglycolic acid
Iron I part per million max. as Fe
Copper I part per million max. as Cu
Lead I part per million max. as Pb
Arsenic I part per million max. as As203
Hair Care Products • Ill
I. It is for this very reason manufacture of thioglycolate prod-

ucts in glass, plastic, earthenware or stainless steel is a
prerogative. Attention must be paid to values and other
contact parts.
2. Temperature is another important factor to be considered.
Heat, due to exothermic reaction, is generated during neu-
tralization of thiglycolates and care must be taken of the
product.
3. The product must not be exposed to air during manufac-
ture or packaging to protect it against excessive oxidation.
4. Control of free alkali in the thioglycolate concentrate be-
fore mixing with the base and throughout the manufacture
and packaging is a must.
5. A titration should be done to test whether the product has
been properly packaged. Proper selection of packaging
material to insure air tight and tamper proof sealing. Caps
must be tested for reaction with the contents.
Collapsible tubes were used but not without trouble. If they are
used perfect lining of tubes is indispensable. Polyethylene does not
serve the purpose because of the high permeability of the plastic.
Neutralizers as with thioglycolates products, need utmost care in
handling.
Now to turn to the powders, bromate and perborate must be
packaged under dry atmosphereic conditions in air-tight and mois-
ture proof containers. Most products of this type are packaged in
aluminium foil coated with cellulose acetate. pH and oxidizing ca-
pacity need to be tested before and after packaging.
Method of Application
The use of thioglycolates should be proceeded by a careful study of
instructions that go along with the methods of application. For ex-
ample:
• Do not use hair straightener if you have abrasions or cuts on
your scalp. Wait until they have healed before straightening
your hair.
• Do not straighten your hair if you are sick or under the care of
a doctor without consulting him first, since your hair is af-
fected by your physical condition.
• Do not substitute hot water when directions call for warm
water.
• Do not use the treatment unless you use all of the neutralizer
in the kit. You must use the neutralizer as directions state.
For those with damaged hair, here are further instructions:
• Do not use hair straightener if your hair has been abused. If
you have used hot combs, marcel irons, harsh lye straighten-
ers, dyes, or bleaches, you may have abused your hair. For
this condition, we recommend the use of hair conditioner for
about two weeks or longer before straightening, to help re-
condition the hair.
The use of comb on the scalp which is softened due to the appli-
cation of thioglycolate needs to be done with care lest irritation or
abrasion leading to infection may occur. If it is a shampoo type hair
straighteneij it should be prevented from getting into the eyes dur-
ing its application.
For hair straightening, the hair must be thoroughly cleansed of
greasy oily, resinous films before application of the thioglycolate
product if satisfactory results are desired. After the initial treat-
ment combs or lye products are discouraged. Furthermore, a lim-
ited application or use of thioglycolate products is recommended be
it for waving or straightening particularly for the latter purpose.
This is limit being 3 or times a year.
However hair straighteners in general are designed for the pur-
pose, for which it is considered advisable that the reaction of the
hair to the straightener rather than for texture of the hair, be the
determining factor during the processing period.
Subsequently several new developments and formulations have
surfaced in hair straightening. The one described in formula II is
different in its chemical composition from all the others known.
This product does the process of hair straightening by destroying
the hydrophilic properties of the hair fiber by forming condensation
products with carboxyl compounds of amino and imino groups

present in the keratin molecules at a pH of below 7 which is condu-
cive for such a process.
Formula 11
Cresol sulfonic acid 7.5%

Isopropyl naphthalene sutlonic acid 7.5%
Formaldehyde 10.0
Water 75.0
Yet another approach to hair straightening was brought about by
the introduction silicones. These products mostly containing sol-
vents are applied to the hair and given the desired shape by press-
ing. The silicone film which is by nature water resistant, prevents
the moisture from reacting with the hair shaft thereby maintaining
the dehydrated hair temporarily straightened or styled.
However, a great deal of improvement is still required in silicone
films in order to enhance its water resistant properties.
7
Hair Dyes
EMPORARY COLOURING MATERIALS for hair are products used at

T any time to effect a physical change in the shade of the hair.
These include powders, crayons, lacquers, and certain rinses. But all
should be easily removable and should not have any appreciable ef-
fects on the texture or other characteristics of normal hair. Historical
and cultural heritage reveals that Greeks, Assyrians, Persians, Chi-
nese, Hindus used hair colouring materials in social life and customs.
The use of powders for changing the colour of the hair is mostly
for theatrical make up, masquerades, and pageants in which it might
be required for historical costumes. Otherwise it is limited to the
occasional freshening of the Wigs of Judges in Courts of Law.
POWDERS
The primitive coloured powders consisted of materials from plant

materials/metallic compounds, and mixtures of these two types.
Later on synthetic organic dyes brought anew era in hair colouring
materials. As these are all proprietary products, exact composition
of the recipes are not possible. However, a broad classification of
hair dyes and their formulas are given below.
Classification of Hair Colouring Agents.
1. Bleaching agents.
2. Temporary colourings.
Hair Dyes • 175
3. Natural organic dyes.

4. Synthetic organic dyes.
5. Inorganic dyes.
BLEACHES
Roman ladies admired the golden hair of many of the captives

brought from Northern Countries and tried to imitate them. Native
minerals such as rock, alum, quicklime, crude soda, and wood ash,
occasionally combined with old wine (or drug of wine) and water,
served as favorite "Blond washes". These preparations were left
on the hair for long days and the resulting reddish gold shades were
retained.
Alum, ashes, borax, crude soap and soda of the earliest mixture,
were still used, but always with decoctions of various plants. To
quote Birch bark broom, celandine, lupine, mullein myrrh, saffron,
stavesachre, turmeric, old wine, and drugs of wine etc., are a few
plants.
The golden red (Venetian blond) shade of hair was immortal-
ized. It was done by combing with a solution of soda (or rock alum,
black sulfur, honey) through the hair and spread over the broad
brim of a crownless hat for drying in sunlight. This treatment was
also introduced in France in the 16th Century.
CHEMICAL BLEACHES
Oxygen releasing compounds were the main source of chemical

agents to bleach the hair. However, for use on living human hair the
chemical agents selected should be nontoxic, mild in action and
free of harmful residue. Hydrogen peroxide is the most satisfac-
tory bleaching agent for human hair. Drug store peroxide a 34%
solution generating 10-12 volumes of oxygen is commonly used for
bleaching the hair at home and 5-6% (12-20 volumes of solution)
are generally used in beauty shops. Stabilized hydrogen peroxide
with a cetanilide ordilute acids, p-hydroxy benzoate or sodium stan-
nate or stannic hydroxide may be used.
By applying with different proportions of peroxide and ammonia
and time of contact, a wide variety of beautiful shades can be ob-

tained.
COLOURING OF HAIR
A variety of products are used to affect the colour of the hair like
powders, crayons, lacquers and certain rinses. But all of it should
be easily removable. A general hair colouring powder consists of
Formula 1
Talc 20%
Starch 25
Potato meal 45
Powdered orris root to
CRAYONS
These are sticks or blocks of colouring materials with handy shapes
originally introduced for retouching of new hair in between perma-
nent dye applications. These are made of mixtures of natural or
synthetic waxes, with soap such as triethanolamine stearate, into
which dyes or pigments are thoroughly incorporated (in different
shades) simulating the average colours of natural hair so that they
blend with other dyes that may be on it. The consistency of the
finished product is such that the colour can be easily applied as the
stick is rubbed directly over the hair or transferred from the stick to
the hair.
Formula 2
Gum arabic 27.5%

Sodium stearate 15.0
Glycerol IS
Water 26.5
Colour 16
Hair Dyes • 177
Procedure
Mix water and glycerol add gum arabic to half of this solution and
allow it to stand. Add stearic acid to reminder and warm mixture
until it is dissolved. Mix all ingredients and add colour and mill thor-
oughly. Run paste into moulds and dry in heat.
Formula 3
Triethanolaminc 7.0%
Glyceryl monolaurate . 5.5
Gum tragacanth 2.5
Stearic acid 13.5
Bees wax 50.0
Camaubawax 13.5
Ozokerite 8.0
Colour q.s.
Procedure
Heat the first three ingredients to 70°C. Add stearic acid and raise
temperature to 75°C. Melt waxes at 75 to 80°C. Add them to other
mixture and stir until well blended. Add colour and mix thoroughly.
Pour into moulds at 68 to 70°C.
COLOURED RINSES
Coloured rinses or tint rinses for the hair were originally patterned
on a similar product commonly used to restore or change the shade
of lingerie, curtains, or other articles used in the household.
These are similar to acid rinses used as accessories to a sham-
poo. The base may be tartaric acid, adipic, citric, acetic and other
acids have also been used alone or in combination. All dyes should
be selected from the officially permitted food colours of FDA.
Table I: Certified Colours for Hair Rinses
FDA Designation Common Name FDA Designation Common Name

FD&C Yellow No.1 Naphthol Ext D&C Red Azo Rubin
Yellow S No.10 Extra
FD&C Yellow No.5 Tartrazine Ext D&C Red Cmceine Scarlet
No. 13
ED&C Yellow No.6
FD&C Green No.2
FD&C Orange No.3
Sunset Yellow FCF

Light Green D&C Yellow Metanil Yellow SF (Yellowish)
No. 10
Ext D&C Yellow Quinoline FD&C Green No.3 Fast Green FC
No.1 Yellow WS
Orange C D&C Green Alizarine Cyanin
No.5
D&C Orange No.4 Orange II Green C
Ext D&C Orange Orange I D&C Green No.7 Acid Fast Green
No.3
FD&C Red No.1 Ponceau 311 FMC Blue No.1 Brilliant Blue
FCF
FD&C Red No.2 Amaranth D&C Blue No.2 lndigotin (C)
FD&C Red No.4 Ponceau SX D&C Blue No.4 Alphazurine FG
D&C Red No.22 Eosin YS Erioglaucine
D&C Red No.33 Acid Fuchsin D Ext D&C Methylene Blue
Blue No.1
Fast Acid Fuchsin CB FD&C Violet No.1 Acid Violet ÔB
Naphthalene Red B D&C Brown No.1 Resorcin Brown
Ext D&C Red No.3 Violamine R D&C Black No.1 Naphthol Blue
Black
Ext D&C Red No.6 Rose Bengak Ext D&C Black Fast Black BB
TDK No.1
Ext D&C Red No.8 Fast Red A Sulfo Cyanine Black B
Hair Dyes • 179
To produce the desired tints, dilute solutions (1 gm/litre) should
be tested, singly and in mixtures, on white wool or hair and also on
naturally coloured hair of shades on which the rinses might appro-
priately be used.
Formulas for Coloured

Rinses 7 8 9 10 II
Certified Colour Cold-Blond Auburn Brown Black Platinum
FD&C Yellow No.5 64% - - - -
FD&C Orange No.1 20 76% - - -
FD&C Red No. I 3 II - - -
Ext D&C Red No. 1 - - - 22% -
Ext D&C Red No. 13 - - 60% - -
D&C Violet No. l 8 13 - - 100%
D&C Brown No. l - - 28 -18 -
D&C Black No. l 5 - 12 60 -
These are manufactured by thoroughly mixing the acids and
packed in moisture proof cellophane envelopes or sacs. Solid forms
are also available like tablets, capsules, to be dissolved in measured
volume of water. Surfactants are also incorporated at times for
uniform diffusion.
For Grey Hair

Rinses, based on Methylene Blue, Acid Violet 6B, and water soluble
Nigrosine are sold both as dry crystals and in solutions, compounded
with adipic, citric or tartaric acid.
Colour Shampoos
Azo dyes have been combined with shampoos of different types.
The earlier products of this kind, used a base of neutral soap in
small cakes, but they were dissatisfactory. Present colour sham-
poth are based on synthetic surface active agents, with wetting
and detergent properties and with colours ranging over 10 shades
suitable for blond hair.
pq
Wave Sets
The mucilages and gums both natural and synthetic which are used
for setting the hair in finger waving or sculpture curls, can also
serve as carriers for various colours.
Lacquers
These are made of Polyvinyl Pyrrolidone (PVP), Ethyl Cellulose

(EC) or Shellac.
PERMANENT COLOURING
An ideal permanent colouring substance for hair should possess the

following qualities.
1. Must not be injurious to general health.
2. Must dye the hair but not the skin.
3. Should not have any ill effect on the structure of the hair.
4. Must not take long time for the production of the effect.
5. Must not have any irritating effect on the skin.
6. Must produce natural shades, lasting reasonably.
7. Must be compatible with other treatments such as perma
nent waving etc.
The permanent dyes are of three categories.
I. Natural organic.
2. Synthetic organic.
3. Metallic preparations.
Natural Organic Dyes
The earliest dyes were natural organic substances obtained from

plants, used either as in fusions, decoctions or packs. Many of the
decoctions of woods are still utilized for the dyeing and blending.
But a majority of the compositions contain henna or chamomile
which are still being persisted with even in modem professional and
amateur practices.
Hair Dyes • 181
Henna and Henna Mixtures
Henna is a naturally occuring shrub in Arabia, Tunisia, Persia, India

and other tropical countries. The active dyeing principle of Henna
is lawsone. Commercial henna rinses are extracts of henna, (with
boiled water) acidified with mild organic acids like adipic, citric
acids.
Henna Pack: Freshly ground paste of henna leaves with 2%
sodium lauryl sulphate or soapnut powder.
Henna Shampoo
Attempts were made to make a coloured shampoo, but were found

to be ineffective. However, 5% henna extract mixed with sodium
or triethanolamine sulfate and 5% of boricor adipic acid could give
a satisfactory shampoo.
Henna Mixtures
To modify the reddish shades of henna, dried and powdered leaves

of Indigofera (called reng) are either mixed with henna, or applied
on the hair alternatively in a paste form. A dark brown to black shade
can be obtained by changing the proportions of both the leaves.
Chamomile
In Western Europe, Great Britain and USA two varieties of
Anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile) and Maticarra Chamomile
(German or Hungarian) are used in extract form. The colouring
principle is apigenin 4,5,7 trihydroxy flavone. A combination of
Henna and Chamomile can also be used as a rinse, a pack or a
shampoo.
Commercial Rinse
Powdered (Roman) Chamomile 40.0%
Oil of Chamomile 0.2
Alcohol 20% to make 100.0
Extract can be obtained by percolation.
Chamomile Pack
Chamomile ulorates, powdered mixed with Kaolinor fuller's earth
and made into a thin paste with boiling water.
Chamomile Shampoo
Marketed either as powder or as a liquid.
German Chamomile (Powdered) 10%
Mild organic acid 5
Sodium lauryl sulphate 85
Oil of Chamomile q.s. for perfume
Liquid Shampoo
Chamomile infusion 10%
Sodium lauryl sulphate 3040%
Water 60-50%
Chamomile-Henna mixtures
Chamomile 75
Henna 25
Wood Extracts
Decoctions of woody fibres bark or nuts from several trees are
also used as dyes.
Catechu
Acacia catechu is brown to black. The active principle is catechin
(Catechol). Catechu and tannic acid in combination produce all
shades from blond to black and act as mordants as well.
Fu St IC
The wood of chiorophora (Morus), Machura tinctoria in which the
active principles is morin. This produces yellowish to brown shades
under different conditions.
Log Wood: (Black wood, Compectic Wood) The heartwood of
Hair Dyes • 183
haernatoxylin, gives an active principle haematoxylin which when
oxidised is responsible for imparting black colour and nullifying red
shades of the hair.
Nutgalls
These are excrescences on leaves and twigs or other
tissues of white oak tree (Quercus infectoria) caused by invasion
of bacteria, certain worms, or insects. These little nuts which are
especially rich in tannin and gallic acid, serve as a source of pyro-
gallol which in turn is the source of rastiks, (hair dye).
Quercitron
The inner bark of another species of oak tree Quercus infectoria,
gives an active principle quercitin. This bark is usually combined
with rustic and logwood to produce dark brown shades.
Wa U n Ut
The leaves of walnut trees Juglans cincrea. J.nigra and J.regia were
used as a source for imparting a brown shade. But as the colour is
not long lasting, the ground shells are used in mixture with other
colour producing substances.
Mixed Wood Dyes

Henna is occasionally mixed with some of the wood extracts: for
example nutgalls or wallnut shells to modify the natural orange red
shade of henna alone. But unfortunately it is not long lasting.
Miscellaneous Plant Products

Among other plant sources of hair colouring, rhubarb and sage.
The former has occasionally been used in combination with henna,
black tea, and chamomile. Its active principle is chrysophanol, which
gives blond shades in alkaline media. Because of its instability it
could not be promoted commercially.
Natural Dyes with Mordants

Solutions of metallic salts act as mordants- usually copper andiron
salts. Generally Rastik (Turkish and Persian name for hair dye) is
prepared by roasting nutgalls with little oil, copper & iron fillings
and then ground to a powder, made a paste with water and when
applied to hair for long hours gives a black shade.
SYNTHETIC DYES
Most of the synthetic organic dyes contain pyrogallol and also the
no and other dyes popularly known as coloured rinses. These are
all oxidizable dyes. The first dye that was attempted on human
beings was pyrogallol. Many of the natural substances contain py-
rogallic acid oxidised from pyrogallol. Pyrogallol solution in alka-
line pH gradually develops black shade/colour. Pyrogallol with plant
derivatives can be formulated into effective hair dye packs.
Amino dyes
The first dye was phenylenediatnine, which is effective in 1-3% of
alkaline solution followed by oxidation with an oxidising solution.
This became popular due to its lustrous natural black colour in con-
trast to other dull colours.
Many pro jrietary products were available commercially. After
the introduction of these aminodyes like compound henna etc.
p-amino phenylamine dyes were introduced into the market. The
next development was towards shampoo vehicles for shampoo, im-
parting tints.
Formula 1
Oleic/Coconut fatty acid 5-25%
Propylene glycol 5-15%
Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to neutralise fatty acid
Water q.s. to make 100
Hair Dyes • 185
Formula 2
Oleic acid 15-30%

Powdered castile soap 2-6
Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to neutralise fatty acid
Waterq.s. to make 100%
Oxidation of dyes developed dermatitis. Hence steps to protect
the users of these products were initiated towards improving both
compositions and methods of application. As a result of which dyes
developed subsequently were better than the earlier ones. Amino
dyes were the so called ideal dyes but for a few reported cases of
allergy.
Forms of Oxidation Dyes
The amino or oxidation dyes have predominently been products for

application by experienced or skilled hair dressers. The materials
for a single application are packaged in two units. One containing
the dye and the other the developer. The developer can be in the
form of a liquid or urea peroxide tablets.
Clear Liquids --
A preliminary treatment with hydrogen peroxide or shampooing

followed by liquid dye treatment. The shade of the colourfdye is
monitored by this method.
Shampoo Shades
These are dyes with shampoo consisting of ammonium salts or

ethanolamine salts of various fatty acids and a wetting agent.
Formula A
Oleic/Coconut fatty acid 15-25%

Propylene glycol 5-15%
Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to neutralist fatty acid
Water q.s. to make 100%
Formula B
Oleic acid 15-30%

Powdered castile soap 2-6
Modified Shampoos
Solvent for intermediates
Ammonium hydroxide 26°C 10%
Isopropanol 25%
Perfume 0.5%
Base Solvent for intermediates
Ammonium hydroxide 10%
Is op ro p a no 25
Perfume 0.5
Base:
Oleic acid 35.0%
Polyoxysothitan monooleate 10.0
Nonionic surfactant 3.50
Water soluble lanolin 1.75
Lecithin 1.25
Chelating agent 0.25
Water to make IOthOO
Procedure
The dye compounds can be mixed or added to the above solvent

mixtures. This serves as an emulsifier. The pH of the final mixture
should be adjusted between 9.0 and 9.2.
In compounding a shampoo tint, the viscosity of both the dye-
base and the mixture of base with developer must be taken into
consideration. The base must flow freely, yet viscous enough to
adhere to the hair.
Colour Shampoos
These are intended to impart merely a temporarary tinge of colour
Hair Dyes • 187
to hair of any shade. However, colour shampoos can be prepared

with a few shades like, gold, red brown or silver dye.
E.g. of modified colour shampoo:

Ammonium lauryl sulfate 25-35%
Fatty acid alkanolamide 2-6
Waterq.s. to make 100%
Cream dyes
These were introduced in Germany in 1950's. Basically these are
like cream shampoos. The product/dye is packed in tightly sealed
tubes from which a measured amount is squeezed out and mixed
with hydrogen peroxide. These are meant for use in beauty shops.
Black Dye Combinations

These were developed as a combination of strong hydrogen perox-
ide controlled by an enzyme catalyst.
Miscellaneous
Amino dyes in the form of powders and capsules. There are also
cakes from which the colour was supposed to develop directly on
hair previously treated with hydrogen peroxide.
Metallic Dyes
A lead comb dipped in vinegar serves as a dyer. Dilute solutions of
lead acetate or nitrate, sulfur, glycerol, rose water are in the com-
position.
Formula
I_cad acetate 1.5%
Precipitated sulfur 0.2
Glycerol 1.5
Distilled water or rose water to make 100.00
Formula A
Lead acetate 0.6%

Sodium thiosulfate 1.8
Glycerol 0.5
Ethyl alcohol 6.0
Water to make 100.00
Formula B
Formula A 25%
Sodium thiosulfate 75
Procedure
Add both the ingredients and make up to I liter at 95°C.
Silver Dyes
All silver salts darken on exposure, Silver dyes come in two fold
packing. One containing silver nitrate and the other a developer.
The principle behind this is all silver salts darken on exposure to
light and silver combines readily with protein forming a brown stain.
The silver dyes are dispersed in two bottles one containing silver
nitrate, the other containing a developer, with sodium, potassium,
ammonium hydro sulfides or pyrogallol. With sulfides, the silver
sulfide (Black) is deposited directly on the hair and with the latter
i.e., pyrogallol the silver salt acts as a mordant. Later varying
amounts of ammonia were added to the silver solution thereby pro-
ducing a fair grade of shades. After shampooing the hair, the dye is
applied and washed with a restorer like ammonia or hypo silver
dyes which are more satisfactory than lead dyes.
Part A: Black Dark brown

Pyrogallol 5% 3%
Distilled water 95%
Hair Dyes • 189
Part B:
Silvernitrate 15%
Ammonia water 10% q.s
Distilled water to make IOU
Procedure
Silver nitrate and ammonia water are mixed till a clear solution is
obtained and stored in a dark place. Silver nitrate may also be pre-
pared as pomade or preferably as a water miscible cream.
As there are two different solutions, the consumer may make an
incomplete application. Dyes of this type therefore are not so satis-
factory but are nevertheless popular.
Copper Dyes
Copper salts and potassium ferrocyanide and developers like am-

monia, hydrosulfides, or pyrogallol were also suggested and used in
saloons. Copper and iron were combined in one bottle with pyro-
gallol and sodium sulfite. These types of products starts to darken
on the hair on being exposed to the air. These products should be
stored in a dark place.
Formula for Copper Dyes
Copper chloride 2.0%

Pyrogallol 2
Nitric acid 0.5
Distilled water 100
Miscellaneous
Salts of bismuth (chocolate brown) iron, nickel, cobalt, manganese,

cadmium with adeveloper like hydro sulfides or pyrogallol are avail-
able but are not very popular.
Compound Henna
Henna with indigo, Iogwood, or any other natural colouring material
derived from plants is compound henna and is sold as vegetable

dyepack. Henna is a carrier of all shades.
Advantages and disadvantages of Metallic dyes

Advantages
These are basically harmless.
Disadvantages
1. In general, these dyes leave different shades on the hair.
2. The texture of the hair is likely to become rough. Regula-
tory affairs and clinical evaluations are not available satis-
factorily.
p-Phenylamine dyes were discouraged due to complaints from
customers and the sale was controlled by FDA and a preliminary
test for Dermatitis was imposed. Similarly clinical testing is obliga-
tory before launching the product into the market.
Dye Removers
Most of the dye removers contain decolorisers like hydrogen per-
oxide or hydro chloride. However, there is no single safe, quick-
removal process for all old dyes. A cosmetologist or an experi-
enced hair dresser only can do this. Soaking in oils or mixture of oils
is the safest removing of hair dye. Sulfonated castor oil with sali-
cylic acid is another example of a safe henna dye remover.
Sodium hydro sulfide Na2S204 in 2.5% solution is also in prac-
tice.
Future Scope
Hair dyes and dye removers, preferably natural are desirable. Al-
though henna indigo mixture is still the most xecommended, some
newer plants need to be discovered and brought into formulations.
Scope for research in this field is very vast.
I!J
Cosmetics
for Nails
flf HE COSMETIC INDUSTRY has a large and profitable share of prod

ucts that take care of finger nails and more recently toe nails.
To counter the grime and rough treatment women resort to nail
cream which is used every night and get a manicure treatment
weekly or biweekly. Finger nail enamel is used even more often.
Pretty finger nails are a prized possession for both genders.
Nails are transparent and protective coverings to the fingers and
toes. The tender skin underneath the nails gives them a natural pink
colouring. Rosy nails suggest good health. Infact, doctors have used
this indication to diagnose circulation of blood. Pale nails indicate
poor health. Deformation of nails by biting is seen as a symptom of
nervousness. The danger of long nails and as a result the possibility
of broken nails may result in infection, particularly felons which
may further result in the loss of the entire finger. In any case proper
care of nails is a wise proposition.
Anatomy of Nails
The nails grow out of the cuticle or horny layer of the skin in the
cells of the nail matrix. These cells consist of granular layers which
have the capacity to grow. The matrix is located within the half
moon or white arc at the base of the nail. This half moon, called
lunula, is not visible on all fingers and toes. The nail does not get a
direct blood supply but is connected to blood vessels through the
nail bed. Nail growth varies from person to person from season to
season. Like unhealthy hair is characterized by poor growth, ab-
normal condition of the nail reflects ill health in other directions.
There is no application that stimulates nail growth. An injury to the
matrix results in a permanent injury to the nail. A healthy nail grows
at the rate of 1/32-1/16 inch per week. Proper care of the nail by
use of friction which increases blood circulation and emollient creams
to keep the cuticle surrounding them clean helps in maintaining
healthy nails.
Manicure Preparations
The care of nails is called manicuring. Manicure preparations have
become an important part of Cosmetic industry and the sale of
these products is ever raising. These preparations include:
1. Nail Polish or Enamel
2. Polish Remover
3. Powder Polish,
4. Paste Polish
5. Nail Cream
6. Nail Bleach
7. Cuticle Remover
8. Cuticle Softener
9. Naillint
The most popular amongst these preparations is nail enamel. It
was first popularized as a colourless transparent coating. Later it
was slightly tinted. Presently this coating is sold in limited quanti-
ties. However, the demand for an opaque lacquer in numerous
shades which lends the nails a smooth, flashy, flexible coating
and covers any blemishes is high. Red and shades of red arepopil-
lar.
Cosmetics for Nails • 193
FORMULAS
The manufacturing of nail enamel involves the risk of fire hazards

due to the handling of inflammable materials that are used in it. The
majority of cosmetic houses prefer readymade enamel which is
suitably coloured and perfumed and promptly bottled. In certain
large cities the manufacture of nail lacquer is prohibited by the fire
department. In case of requirement of moderate quantities of nail
enamel, it is advisable for the manufacturer to purchase it rather
than make his own because it is economical as well as convenient.
The composition of a majority of nail polishes have a base like
triacetyl cellulose of nitrocellulose, a resin, a plasticizer, a solvent, a
dye or pigment and a suitable perfume.
The use of nitro cellulose alone would result in the cracking of
the film of enamel not spreading evenly or adhering properly to the
nail. It is at this juncture that resins, plasticizers and solvents come
into play. The more common natural resins used are shellac, ben-
zoin, dammar, sandarac, and ester gums. Plastic resins like polyvi-
nyl and polystyrene also yield satisfactory results. They help in the
formation and adherence thereof to the nail. The plasticizers gen-
erally consist of high boiling liquids like the high boiling glycol es-
ters, tricresyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, dibutyl pthalate and
castor oil. Camphor a solid is also used. Their function is to pre-
serve the flexibility and adhesive power of the film. The solvents
thin out and disperse the finger nail enamels and should be of such
a character that the lacquer sets in 60 to 90 seconds after applica-
tion. The solvents used in combination or atone are acetone, alco-
hol, amyl acetate, ethyl acetate, amyl format and ethyl propionate.
The selection of a solvent is very important in preventing the phe-
omenon called "Blushing" which is a clouding of the polish by
cooling the surface of the nail below the atmosphere's dew point.
On the other hand two rapid drying is undesired lest an uneven
film will result. The selection and blending of the pigments is most
important. About a dozen basic colours make up the colour range
of finger nail enamels. Of course all of them must comply with the
terms of FDA, should disperse well, be resistant to light and alkali
found in kitchen cleaning and dishwashing, be non-staining and must
produce good gloss. Only colours that are compatible must be

used to avoid separation. Insoluble lake colours with a small per-
centage (5%) of titanium dioxide are preferred. The mineral colours
like, iron oxide, the ochres, siennas, lamp black and ultramarine
are useful for blending purposes. Purchase of nail polish from a
bland house is recommended rather than going for an untried or
unknown product.
Perfume is really not a must in nail enamels but adds to its finer
qualities. It is used mainly to suppress the unpleasant odour of the
solvents used. The recommended dosage is about 1% and it should
be carefully selected so that it does not affect in any way the fin-
ished enamel.
There are certain basic requirements for evolving a good nail
enamel or lacquer. The glossing materials, resins, plasticizers, sol-
vents, pigments, and perfumes must be judiciously balanced to ful-
fill the following conditions.
1. There must be a proper flow to produce a glossy, even
film.
-2. The finished film should not be sticky.
3. Must possess proper adhering qualities.
4. The film must not crack or peel off after application.
5. Must not develop clouding or blush.
6. Must be resistant to water as well as soapy, slightly alka-
line water.
7. Must be tight proof and not fade away.
8. The film must not dry out the fingernails.
9. The colours must be non-staining.
10. The shades must be uniform and popular.
To formulate one such polish requires skill and knowledge. With
the arrival of new ingredients into the market, improvements are
being constantly made.
Here are a few formulas which describe the approximate com-
position of nail enamels.
Nail Enamel
Form 1
Nitro cellulose (I Second Vis) 10.0%
Ethyl acetate 50.0
Butyl acetate 20.0
Diethyl phthalate 15.0
Camphor 4.5
Colour (dye) 0.5
Dissolve the nitrocellulose and the camphor in the ethyl acetate.
Add the rest of the ingredients. Perfume and colour as desired.
Form 2
Celluloid clear 25.0%
Acetone 50.0
Amyl acetate 25.0
Oil Pink 0.2
Rhodaniine B 0.01
Form 3
Nitro cellulose thy 10%
Anhydrous methyl alcohol 75
Ethylene glycol monornethyl ether IS
Form 4
Glycerin 0.5%
Purified sulfuric ether 4.65
Zinc oxide 15.0
Acetone 19.0
Amyl acetate 18.0
Butyl alcohol 22.0
Pure celluloid 20.0
Olive oil 0.5
Ultramarine 0.15
Lavender oil 0.2
Nail polish removers consist of a single solvent like acetone or

combinations of solvents like:
Nail Polish Removers

Form 5
Butyl stearate 60.0%
Ethyl acetate 40.0
Form 6
Butyl stearate 35.0%
Isopropyl alcohol 65.0
Form?
Castor oil 10.0%
Dibuty! phthalate 40.0
Ethyl acetate 50.0
Form 8
Glycol methyl ether 97.0%
Peanut oil 2.5
Perfume 0.5
Form 9
Glycol ethyl ether 46.0%
Ethyl acetate 15.0
Paraffin 5.5
Beeswax 6.5
Stearic acid 20.0
Triethanolamine 6.0
Perfume 1.0
Before the advent of fingernail enamel, polishing powders, and
pastes enjoyed as much popularity as the enamel enjoys today. Even
today they find considerable use among certain classes.
Nail Polish Powders

Form 10
Tin oxide 90.0%
Oleic acid 2.0
Form 11
Tin oxide 83.0%
Carnauba wax 4.5
Fuller's earth 6.0
Oleic acid 4.0
Benzyl benzoate 0.5
Form 12
Tin oxide 70.0%
Talc 20,0
Rice starch 10.0
Nail Polish Pastes

Form 13
Tin oxide 25.0%

Carnauba wax 15.0
White beeswax 5.0
Pctrolatum, short fibre, soft 50.0
Form 14
Rosin 8,0%
Spermaceti 5.0
Carnauba wax 5.0
Tin oxide 30.0
Zinc oxide 10.0
Petrolatum, short fibre, soft 30.0
Kieselguhr purified 12.0
Melt the rosin, spermaceti, carnauba wax and petrolatum to-
gether. Sift in the dry materials while mixing as before. Add a suit-
able perfume.
Creams for direct application to the nails and for softening the
cuticle enjoy considerable popularity particularly among "manicur-
ists".
Here are some illustrative formulas of Nail cream.
Nail Cream
Form 15
Petrolatum, short fibre 24.0%
Cholesterol in absorption base 20.0
Cetyl alcohol 5.0
Cocoa butter 5.0
While beeswax 12.0
Borax 0.5
Water 23.0
Perfume 0.4
Preservative 0.1
Heat thèwater and dissolve the borax in it. Melt the petrolatum,
absorption base, cetyl alcohol, cocoa butter, and beeswax. Add the
borax solution and mix thoroughly. Add the preservative and per-
fume, dissolved in the tincture ofbenzoin.
Cuticle Softener
Form 16
Cholesterol in absorption base 25.0%
Petrolatum 17.0
Beeswax 10.0
Sulfonated castor oil 24.0
Trisodiura phosphate 2.0
Water 17.5
Perfume (alkali stable) 0.5
Melt the first four ingredients together. Dissolve the phosphate

in water, add the sodium lauryl sulfate and heat to 80°C. With rapid
stirring add the melted fats. Mix until cool and add the perfume.
Cuticle Cream
Form 17
Lanolin absorption base 25.0%
Lanolin 10.0
Mineral oil 19.0
Water 45.0
Perfume 1.0
Form 18
Anhydrous lanolin 10%
Paraffin wax refined 10
Beeswax 25
White rose oil 5
Petrolatum Superla white 5
Distilled water 25
Boric acid crystals
Alkanet colour (1:10 in mineral oil) 7
Perfume 12
In manicuring it is desirable to have the protruding tips under the

nails appear white. To atain this condition nail white, also a nail
bleach, is used. These nail whites consist of a white pigment dis-
persed through a fatty base. These formulas have been used.
Nail Bleach (Nail White)

Form 19
Titanium dioxide 20.0%
Talc 20.0
Zinc peroxide, purified 7.5
Petrolatum 26.0
Mineral oil 26.5
Mix the petrolatum and mineral oil. Slowly add the dry materials.
(May sweat due to light oil content).
Nail White
Form 20
Stearic acid 22.0%
Mineral oil 7,5
Triethanolamine 2.0
Glycerin 7.0
Water 53.0
Perfume 1.0
A nail bleach may be made as follows;
Form 21
Oxalic acid 0.25%
Citric acid 10.25
Rose water 89.5
Dissolve the acids in the rose water. Straight hydrogen peroxide
is also used as a nail bleach.
Due to the universal smoking of cigarettes many finger, particu-
larly under the nails, become stained with the volatile portion of the
cigarette tobacco or paper. The products to remove these are named
nicotine removers.
Nicotine Removers
Form 22
Beeswax 10.0%
Paraffin 5.0
Mineral oil 46.0
Pumice 8.0
Borax 0.5
Water 30.0
Perfume 0.5
Form 23
Glacial acetic acid 40%
Aluminium sulfate 32
Fine pumice 8
Water IS
Perfume 2
Mould while moist
The cuticle around the nail has a tendency to grow over the nail
in a thin irregular layer. This is usually removed by softening it with
a cuticle remover and then pushing the softened layer down and off
the nail with an orange stick. Cuticle removers consist of caustic
alkalies and must be handled cautiously. Two typical formulas are
given:
Form 24
Potassium hydroxide 3.0%
Glycerin 8,0
Rose water 50.0

Water 39.0
Form 25
Sodium hydroxide 5%
Water 44
Alcohol S.D. 40
Propylene glycol 10
Perfume
lb_^
w
Antiperspirants and
Deodorants
OSMETIC DEODORANTS these days are available in a variety of
C forms in practically every store. These products remove or
decrease the malodour of perspiration, prevent its development, or
do both. A survey shows that lately these products are becoming
increasingly popular and have flooded the market. There is at least
one advertisement of deodorants during every television programme.
It shows the growing public awareness, male and female, of the
unpleasantness of perspiration odour, and the will to do something
about it.
The odour of perspiration varies from person to person. The
causes may be several. It could be the physical condition, activity
of the person, emotional state or diet. To combat this unpleasant
odour it is imperative to develop some products to counteract the
smell, or reduce the flow of excess perspiration.
A variety of products with astringent properties are said to react
with the proteins of the skin and cause coagulation, causing swell-
ing which in turn blocks the pores of the skin, reducing the flow of
sweat.
The salts of such metals as aluminum, iron, chromium, lead, zir-
conium, mercury and zinc have astringent properties. But not all
are used for preparing anti-perspirants, as some produce discolora-
tion, and others possible toxic effects. The astringency is depen-

dent also on the anionic sulfate; chloride, chlorohydroxide and phe-
nol-sulfonate have been most widely used. Basic formate, lactate,
sulfamate and alums are also found in anti-perspirant products.
Acetates are generally not used because of their distinctly strong
odour. Aluminum salts are generally used in concentration of 12 to
20%.
There are some more pharmacodynamic agents such as
Banthine, Prantal and others, which can suppress perspiration when
applied by iontophoresis. Sweating can be checked by Priscoline
and Regitine by anti adrenergic drugs since all of these drugs, though
effective anti-perspirants are known to have some undesirable side
effects, are not suitable for cosmetic use.
'Most of the salts which show good astringent qualities are of
low pH (2.5 - 4.0), hence they may be irritating to the skin and
corrosive to fabric. The pH of such products may be modified by
the addition of zinc oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum hydroxide or
triethanolamines to reduce skin irritation. A small quality of the
substance is put under an adhesive patch, on the skin for 48 hrs. A
subsequent patch is applied again on the same skin area, after 10
days. This will indicate the sensitizing properties of the test prod-
uct. It also indicates the incidence of irritation and sensitization
when a product is used repeatedly on the skin. This test is a must
and is valuable for anti-perspirant products where frequent appli-
cation of the same product on the same place daily is done for
judging the dermatological properties.
Next comes the complex problem of fabric protection. If a readily
hydrolyzed salt, like aluminum chloride is used in the product the
fabric will not be effected immediately on coming in contact with
the solution or cream. If the salts used are not so strongly acidic,
the fabric may not be damaged. Linen, cotton and viscose rayon
are very susceptible to these acidic creams. Silk wool, nylon, ac-
etate rayon are more resistant. There is maximum damage to a
fabric if it comes in contact with a cream and then is ironed without
laundering.
The importance of anti-perspirants which do not cause fabric
damage is shown in the large number of patents issued for various
Antiperspirants & Deodorants • 205
means of protecting the fabric. One of the earliest issued patents

for anti-perspirants is as follows:
I part Al2C13 (crystals)
3 pans distilled water
½ part borax
½ part powdered alum
The water is to dissolve the ingredients, the purpose of Al 2C13 is
to stop perspiration, and that of borax and alum to prevent irritation
to skin that could be caused by Al 2C1 3 , Another patent for anti-
perspirants is a solid, wax like stick, which absorbs and deodorizes
the perspiration and at the same time is not harmful to the skin and
fabric.
This product is made by a mildly astringent perspiration deodor-
ant zinc sulfocarbonate, a cutaneous sedative, zinc oleate and wax.
Another formula which has basic aluminum formate to inhibit
fabric corrosion is as follows:
Basic Aluminum formate solution 35.0 Parts
Aluminum sulfate 8.0
Crystallised ammonium alum 5.0
Boric acid powdered 3.0
Tegacid 20.0
Stearic acid 2.5
Petrolatum 2.5
Water 24.0
Several patents issued to Montenier are compositions which over-
come the excessive acidity in astringents.
The other products of Montenier use certain amide and nitrite
compounds - like succinimide and.qyrazol to overcome the acidity
of Al2C13 . These are used in astringent preparations like cream,
liquid cream or stick.
Wallace & Hand described a new and improved perspiration
retarding or inhibiting compound which while being an active anti-
perspirant, is not damaging to skin or fabric.
This compound comprises of an astringent, one or more water
soluble heavy-metal salts of strong acids, usually mineral acids and
a normally mineral water-soluble amino compound having one or

more intact reactive amino groups.
The metallic salt normally comprises a water-soluble strong acid
salt of such metals like aluminum, cerium, zirconium, zinc, titanium,
iron or bismuth. Salts of tin, lead and cadmium are also effective.
The protective agent is an aliphatic amide soluble in the strong
acid salt. Another patent to Klarmann & Gates has the following
formula.
% or in Parts
Al2C13 15.0
Tegacid 15.0
Spermaceti 3.0
Bees wax 2.0
Magnesium oxide 2.5
Water 62.5
This formula incorporates a water insoluble basic compound of

a metal such as an oxide, hydroxide or carbonate of zinc, magne-
sium or aluminum to inhibit fabric corrosion. The hydrolysis of the
astringent salt of the antiperspirant develops sufficient acidity to
bring about the solution of the insoluble compound and can be used
in proportions from 4 to 25%.
Another patent granted to Apperson & Rich and Son, which
uses aluminum orthophosphate and aluminum pyrophosphate which
not only help to be anti-corrosive to fabrics, but also serve as anti-
perspirant agents in the preparation. A cream preparation was made
from these ingredients which is said to have reduced 32% of the
tensile strength of cotton fabric. The formula is as follows:
Glyceryl monostearic acid stabilized 16%
Spermaceti 5
Aluminum sulfate (crystallized) 19
Aluminum phosphate 7
Water 53
But if in the same formula water is substituted by aluminum

phosphate, there is 84% loss in tensile strength. The use of 10%
aluminium phosphate with a subsequent reduction of water shows
no damaging effect on cotton fabric. A patent granted to Van Mater
describes compounds of zirconium which are said to have deodor-
ant and anti-perspirant properties. They are also said to be non
irritating to the skin. The zirconium salts of the hydroxyorganic acid,
which are insoluble, form water soluble salts with alkali or ammo-
nium hydroxide and also amino oramino-hydroxy compounds.
Another German patent describes a powder made of zirconium
compounds, i.e. oxide, hydroxide basic sulfate, or basic carbonate,
which is soothing to the skin even in the presence of perspiration.
Thurmon describes anti-perspirants made of weakly acidic cat-
ion exchange resins together with aluminum phenol sulfonate.
These resins in the preparation absorb the amino acids in the
perspiration thereby preventing decomposition of bacteria, which
causes the odour. These cream preparations which have 15 to
20% cation exchange resins and 10 to 20% aluminum phenol
sulfonate are gentle on the skin and cause no damage to the
fabrics.
Urea is probably the most effective modifier for reduction of
fabric damage. It has amino groups which are available for reac-
tion with the acid formed by the hydrolysis of the astringent salt.
At room temperatures it gives very good fabric protection, prob-
ably because, it breaks down into ammonia and neutralizes the as-
tringent salt. However, it has some undesired properties. At high
temperatures it breaks down to form ammonia and CO 2 and creams
containing aluminum sulfate, such a urea break-down will form alum
crystals and CO 2 in the cream which will cause swelling and
sponginess.
LIQUID ANTI-PERSPIRANTS
Liquid anti-perspirants mostly contain an aqueous or hydroalcoholic
solution of an astringent salt, a small amount of humectant, a per-
fume, a dispersing agent for the perfume and a deodorant. They
are generally applied in the form of a spray. If aluminum chloride
or sulfate is used as an astringent salt, then a buffer is needed.
Al2C13 is an irritation causing compound and should be used in low
concentrations. Aluminum chlorohydroxide complexes can be used

in a spray without a buffer. A small quantity of non-ionic emulsifier
like Tween 40 will serve to spread the perfume in the solution.
Alcohol increases the rate of evaporation and prevents hydroly-
sis of the anti-perspirant in solution. The deodorant used must be
soluble in the astrigent solution. A small amount of humectant helps
in preventing deposit on the spray nozzle subsequently blocking the
opening.
Here is a workable formula for an anti-perspirant spray.
Part A
Alcohol 50%
Hexachlorophene 0.1
Perfume q.s.
Part B
Aluminum chlorohydroxide 15.0
Water 29,9
Procedure
Dissolve hexachlorophene and perfume in alcohol and propylene

glycol to make a solution A. Dissolve the aluminum chlorohydroxide
in the water, and add this solution slowly to A and to keep in a
closed container for 48 hours at least. Then filter before filling.
Quarternary ammonium salts, such as cetyl pyridinium chloride,
cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide or the thiamine disobutyl cresoxy
ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride are also suitable for use
as deodorants in anti-perspirant solutions. The compatibility of the
quaternary with the astringent salt must be checked before its se-
lection. Some quaternaries are incompatible with the sulfate ion.
A simple formula for anti-perspirant deodorant using a quaternary
is given below.
AI 2 CI, 18%
Thiamine 1622 0.5
Ethyl alcohol 40.0
Water 36.5
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Mix the water propylene glycol and alcohol in a container with an

agitator. Slowly add the thiamine and aluminum chlorohydroxide.
Continue stirring until clear solution is formed.
Anti-perspirants and acids may generally react, so any perfume
used should be acid stable in regard to colour and odour. For this,
the perfume may be kept at a slightly higher temperature (45°) for
about 3 to 6 months to observe any change in colour and odour.
Perfumes maybe irritating to the skin. It is imperative that they
be tested on the skin for possible irritation or sensitization. Be-
cause of its flexibility, inertness and general attractiveness polyeth-
ylene glycol is used as liquid antiperspirant in spray type containers.
The spray nozzles should always be checked for spray characteris-
tics with the solutions to be packed, as the spray can be viscous.
Polyethylene containers are inert to spray ingredients, they are per-
meable to many perfume ingredients. It is therefore important to
choose a perfume for a product, to be packed in a container with
the least diffusion.
Weight found that the nature of the cosmetic container plays a
vital role in determining the rate of permeation. Alcoholic prepara-
tions lost less perfume than preparations in mineral oil.
For a product to be packaged in polypropylene, it is obvious that
shelf life tests are important in selecting a perfume. -
ANTI PERSPIRANT CREAMS

The most widely accepted antiperspirants by consumers are of the
vanishing cream type. Since the product must contain 15 to 20%
astringent salt, the usual type of cream made with a soap emulsifier
will not be effective. An acid stable emulsifier compatible with the
astringent salt should be used. Satisfactory creams can be made
with acid stabilized glyceryl monostearate with or without addi-
tional emulsifier. Several anionic emulsifiers i.e., sodium lauryl sul-

fate, sodium cetyl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate or an alkyl
or aryl sulfonate can be used. Nonionics such as the hexitol esters
of common fatty acids (Spans) and their polyoxyethylene deriva-
tives Tweens or ethers form acid-stable emulsions.
The concentration of the emulsifier helps to determine the finer
consistency of the cream. Consistency of creams made out of
cationic or nonionic emulsifiers are softer than those made with
anionic emulsifiers. A nonionic emulsifier could be combined with
a cationic or anionic emulsifier to form a cream of desired conis-
tency. Glyceryl or glycol esters of steartic acid or other fatty acids
are used alone or blended according to desired consistency of the
cream.
Other products like spermaceti or cetyl alcohol are often used
with glyceryl or glycol esters. Either petrolatum or mineral oil Ito
3% may also be used. The total fatty content of the cream is
generally between 15 to 20%. Depending on the type of astringent
used will depend the concentration of the fabric damage inhibitor.
With aluminum salts, 5 to 10% concentration of urea will give
good fabric protection. Some of the amides too could be used in
lower percentages. A number of satisfactory humectants are avail-
able for cosmetic creams. Here are 11-desirable properties for
humectants.
1. High hygroscopicity.
2. Narrow humectant range i.e., minimum change in water
content with change in relative humidity.
3. Desired viscosity.
4. Low viscosity index i.e., little change in viscosity with tem-
perature and with water content.
5. Good compatibility.
6. Low volatility.
7. Low cost.
8. Low toxicity.
9. Good colour and odour.
10. Lack of corrosive action.
11. Low freezing point.
The humectants most commonly used in anti-perspirants are glyc-
erol and propylene glycol. Of these, under equilibrius conditions
glycerol is most hygroscopic and sorbitol syrup 85% solution is the
least hygroscopic Propylene glycol has the lowest viscosity and
sorbitol syrup the highest.
Propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol 400 are more volatile
than glycerol; sorbitol is basically non volatile. All of them are low
in toxicity. The polyethylene glycols 200 to 400 are innocuous for
external use. None of the above products have an objectionable
odour.
Humectants are used 3 to 10% of the formula weight. The
concentrations to prevent drying of the cream will depend on the
other ingredients used. In some formulations, sorbitol with a con-
centration of 2% can give effective moisture-retaining properties
while propylene glycol is more effective in the 5 to 10% range.
The consistency of a vanishing cream generally depends on the
quality of the humectant and other ingredients used. Vanishing
creams having propylene glycol as humectant show more crusting
on exposure to air than the cream made out of sorbitol syrup or
glycerol.
Although nonionic creams lose water when exposed to air they
generally remain soft to touch and show less shrinkage and split-
ting.
Titanium dioxide used between 0.5 to 1% and well dispersed is a
good cream whitener and opacifier. If the quantity of titanium di-
oxide is increased the whiteness and brightness of the cream also
increases, but if this cream rubs off on to clothes, is difficult to
remove as titanium dioxide adheres to the fabric.
The perfume used for the antiperspirant must be compatible with
the emulsion and should be acid stable. Occasionally a perfume
may cause bleeding or sepration in an otherwise stable cream. Karas
discovered that aromatic chemicals and essential oils more often
than not shorten the life of the emulsions.
Creams filled at too high temperature will harden in the con-
tainer after cooling. Those filled too cold may be too soft and bleed.
The temperature most suitable for milling and filling should be de-
termined for given formulas by laboratory test batches.
The finished product should be stable when stored at a slighty
raised temperature (40°C) for at least a week and for several days
at 5°C temperature. It should remain attractive and cosmetically
reusable.
ANTIPERSPIRANT LOTIONS
Antiperspirant lotions do not have as big a market as antiperspirant
creams. The emulsion type lotion basically has the same manufac-
turing procedure as that used for a cream. The finished emulsion
has to be carefully tested for emulsion stability with age and change
in temperature, and viscosity with age.
ANTIPERSPIRANT STICKS
Antiperspirants have also been developed in the form of sticks.
There is the waxy type using zinc sulfonate and oleate in a waxy
base. It is not strongly astringent.
Mother type of antiperspirant stick is made by a combination of
astringent chloride with a hard wax dissolved by heating in alcohol.
It will form a solid gel on cooling. If a higher ester or fatty acid is
added, the texture and rigidity of the product improves. E.g. 22.5gm
Al2C13 H2 0 12g candelilla wax 16g stearic acid boiled in a reflux
condenser with an alcoholic menstrum consisting of isopropyl alco-
hol 90% by volume. When all the-solid ingredients were effected
into a solution and cooled, and packed in container, it forms a solid
mass of smooth salve like consistency which could be applied on
the skin to deodorize perspiration.
ANTIPERSPIRANT POWDERS.
Of all the antiperspirant products the antiperspirant powders are
fht U? 1
the least effective. This is probably bpcduse the quantity of pow-
der adhering to the skin is not suffiienieStgh to stop the flow of
perspiration. One product could be rriade by miing25 pans of an
alkali metal phosphate, mixed with lcopodium (5 parts) and talc
(70 parts).
4(1
j '(1•
TEST METHODS
There are several methods for testing the efficacity of antiperspi-

rants. The simplest is to use the precipitate of egg albumin to mea-
sure the astringency.
DEODORANTS
There are a number of products which are deodorants and not

necessarily antiperspirant. Deodorants like zinc oxide, boric and
benzonic acids may be satisfactorily incorporated into powders.
Hexachlorophene is an effective deodorant in either stick or pow-
der form. The efficacy of these products is tested by application to
the axillae, and then measuring the decrease in odour and cutane-
ous bacteria. A powder containing 0.5% and the stick containing
0.25% of hexachlorophene reduce by 99% the bacterial population
of the axillarly fossae.
Topically applied antibiotics will also have deodorizing proper-
ties. Tests where 3% of Aureomycin was used proved 80%
supperession of bacterial growth in axillae. TStrothicin and Neomy-
cin are found to have similar properties also. But a high index of
sensitization to the antibiotics makes them unsuitable for cosmetic
use. With new developments of antibiotics, sensitizing may reduce
and antibiotics may be good ingredients for deodorants.
Ion exchange resins were found to have properties to absorb in
vitro the odorous substances in sweat.
A mixture of anion and cation resin proved more effective than
when used separately. When these anion and cation resins were
incorporated in 20% proportion in ointments or emulsions, the de-
odorization is complete.
DEODORANT POWDERS
Deodorant powders, to be effective have to be mixed and ground

well, so that the ingredients are well dispersed. The active ingredi-
ent may be dissolved in a suitable solvent and distributed through
the powder mix. The perfume should be well blended with the talc
then incorporated into the batch. Since the active ingredients are
deodorants, they may affect the fragrance, hence any perfume being
used should be tested over a period of 2-3 months, samples should
be checked for loss of odour. Some basic formulas are:
Formula 1
Talc 70%
Light precipitated chalk 10
Boric acid 10
Zinc oxide 9
Zinc phenolsulfonate
Perfume q.s.
Formula 2
Talc 84.0%
Boric acid 3.0
Chalk 12.0
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Hexachlorophene 0.5
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Dissolve hexachlorophene and cetyl alcohol in a minimum quantity

of alcohol and add to the powders.
LIQUID DEODORANTS
Several quaternary ammonium compounds have been tested and

found relatively nontoxic and sufficiently nonirritating for use in
cosmetic preparations. Some of these like disobutylphenoxy (or
cresoxy) ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride have been used
in concentrations as high as 2%. Quaternaries are particularly suit-
able for aqueous deodorant preparations as they stick to the skin
and are not easily washed out by perspiration. Hence the antibac-
terial and deodorant spray can be prepared, without toxic antiper-
spirant properties by dissolving 0.5 to 2% of quaternary in water or
5% denatured alcohol of cosmetic grade. Perfume and humectant
may be added if desired instead of water or alcohol in this type of
product.
The water-soluble derivatives of chlorophyll potassium copper
chlorophyllin, sodium derivatives of chlorophyll, sodium-magnesium
chlorophyllin have satisfactory deo-qualities. Killian found that
water-soluble chlorophyllins in concentrations of 0.05% deodorized
malodorous stale perspiration. But, with chiorophyllin, or any other
compound the efficacy is relative to the concentrations used. Chlo-
rophyll derivatives can be used in combination with quaternaries
too for the cream or deodorant solution.
If one of the chlorinated phenol derivatives (hexacholophene or
bithionol) is used in liquid it must be dissolved in propylene glycol
and alcohol as iron causes discoloration with these as with phenol
derivatives. It is therefore absolutely necessary to eliminate iron
contamination from other ingredients or from equipment when they
are used.
These deodorants when mixed in 0.25% concentrations are ef-
fective antibacterial products.
DEO CREAMS
For any chlorinated phenol deodorants used in a cream, it is impor-

tant to select an emulsifier, which is compatible.
Many non-ionic emulsifiers suppress the bacteriostatic activity
of these products. Potassium stearate-stearic acid vanishing cream
serves as a good base for this product.
Formula 3
Part A
Hexachlorophene 0.5%
Glyceryl rnonostcaratc 10.0
Stcaric acid 4.0
Cetyl alcohol 2.0
Part B
Potassium hydroxide LU
Water 66.5
Perfume q.s.
A deodorant cream of heavier body serves to absorb malodor-
ous materials from the skin surface, at the same time prevents
formation of bad odour, by its antibacterial ingredients.
Formula 4
Part A
Arlacel C 4.0%
Ceresi n 6.0
White petrolatum 8.5
Mineral oil 20.0
Lanolin 4.5
Part B
Magenisium sulfate 0.15
Water 21.85
Zinc-oxide 15.00
Zinc stearate 10.00
Aluminum phenolsulfonate 10.00
Perfume q.s.
Water-in-oil type emulsions are satisfactory deodorant creams.
Since they can be rubbed into the skin, and yet not make the skin
feel greasy.
DEODORANT STICKS
Deodorant sticks with no antiperspirant have also been found in
stick form. O'Neil had made a preparation of 25% zinc oxide 25%
boric acid 33% spermaceti 16.75% petrolatum, and 0.25% petro-
leum oil moulded in a stick form which rubs off as a thin film when
applied on the skin.
Another increasingly popular type of deodorant stick is made
with 5% to 10% sodium stearate, or with hard soaps 2 105% of
humectant, the necessary alcohol and perfume.
The gel may be formed by dissolving soap in warm alcohol or
saponification of an alcoholic solution of stearic acid with sodium
hydroxide.
The solidifying temperature will vary with the concentration of
soap. This then is poured hot into moulds.
Formula 5
Sodium stearate 8.00%

Sorbitol syrup 5.00
Hyamine 1622 025
Water 8.75
Ethyl alcohol SD 40 75.00
Perfume 3.00
Formula 6
Hard soap 8.00

Isopropyl myrisLate 10.00
Glycerol 3.00
Cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide 0.25
Ethyl alcohol SD 40 75.75
Perfume 3.00
Formula 7
Amerchol —L -lot 10.0%

Glyceryl monostearate 13.5%
Spermaceti 1.5%
Tween 60 8.5%
Isopropyl palmitate 3.0%
Water 63.0%
Perfume q.s %
Hexachlorophene 0.5%
Very few products have these ideal requirements. However, with

new astringents, varied emulsifiers and attractive packaging, it is
inevitable that many new products find their way into the market.
LABELING OF ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND

DEODORANTS
The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act includes certain provi-
sions which apply to the labeling of preparations for which claims
are made to antiperspirant action. A product falls under the label
"drug" as stated by this Act, if it is capable of reducing the flow of
sweat because by doing so, it is affecting the normal bodily func-
tion. The ingredients responsible for this must be mentioned on the
label, along with other information required by the Act.
Deodorants, which only claim to reduce the odour of sweat and
nothing else, fall under the label of cosmetics and must comply with
the requirements for such products.
If a cosmetic product claims to be antiseptic, it falls under that
part of the Act which says that the product has antibacterial
perfomance required of a preparation as designated.
According to the federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, a drug
or cosmetic will be called misbranded if its label is false or mislead-
ing. Eg. an antiperspirant may be claimed to "check" or "reduce"
perspiration rather than "stop" it. Deodorants preparations may be
said to "decrease" or "stop" temporarily the odour or sweat.
The ultimate test of deodorants, or that of any product is by its
usuage by the consumer. The ideal deodorant, is probably the one
which has maximum antiperspirant and deodorant efficacy, and a
pleasing perfume at the same time, easy to apply and leaves no
uncomfortable residue on the skin. It should not stain or corrode
fabrics, shelf life should be long without changing its efficacy.
10
Sun Screens
HE PURPOSE OF SUNSCREENS is to either scatter sunlight effec-

T tively or to absorb the erythemal part of sun's radiant energy.
In other words sunscreen is not to prevent the suns ultraviolet ra-
diation from reaching the skin but to reduce its intensity so as to
enable the skin to develop its own protection against exposure. For this
purpose opaque powdered materials like talc, kaolin, zinc oxide, cal-
cium carbonate, magnesium oxide and titanium dioxide applied in dry
form or used in sutable carriers serve as light scattering agents.
The true sunscreens function by absorbing the erythemal ultra-
violet radiation. The first such cosmetic appeared in the United
States in 1928. The product contained as its active agent a combi-
nation of benzyl cinnamate with benzyl salicylate in an emlusion.
An effective sunscreen must satisfy the following conditions.
1.Should be able to absorb erythemogenic radiation.
2. While performing its primary function of absorbing radia-
tion it should not loose its chemical stability which in turn
may reduce its performance.
3. It must be neither non-toxic nor irritant.
4. It must be non-volatile and must not lose its efficacy in the
presence of perspiration.
Table shows the ultraviolet absorption of several oils.
White mineral oil 0%
Poppy oil 23%

Coconut oil 23% Cotton seed oil 26%

Peanut oil 24% Sesame oil 39%
Olive oil 23%
The above table reveals, that sesame oil is the best ultraviolet
absorbent oil.
List of some sunburn preventive substances.
I. p-Aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivative like (ethyl,
isobutyl, glyceryl, esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid)
2. Anthranilates (i.e., o-aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl,
phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linayl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl
esters)
3. Salicylates (amyl, phenyl benzyl methyl, glyceryl and
dipropyleneglycol esters)
4. Cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters; a-
phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate)
5. Dihydroxycinnamic acid derivates (unbelliferone, methyl
umbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone)
6. Trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esucerletin,
methylsesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and
daphnin)
7. Hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadine, stilbene)
8. Dibensalacetone and benzalacetophenone
9. Naphtholsulfonates (Sodium salts of 2-naphthol-6 disulfonic
and of 2-naphthol-6, 8-disulfonic acids)
10. Dihydroxy-naphthoic acid and its salts
11. o-and p-Hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates
12. Coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl)
13. Diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromonidazole, phenyl benzoxazole)
14. Quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleates, and tan-
nate)
15. Quinoline derivatives
16. Uric and violuric acids
17. Tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g. hexaethylether)
18. Butyl carbityl 6-propyl piperonyl ether
19. Hydroquinone
Sun Screens • 221
Several formulas with different formulations are available for
illustration.
Formula 1: Suntan
2-Ethyl hexyl salicylate 5%

Sesame oil 40%
Mineral oil 55%
Perfume colour and antioxidant q.s
Formula 2: Suntan
Homomethyl salicylate 5%
Ceresin (65°C) 15%
Peanut oil 80%
Perfume, colour and antioxidant q.s
Dipropylene glycol salicylate 5%

Lanolin, deodorized 35
Sesame oil 20
Mineral oil 20
Water 20
Perfume, colour and antioxidant q.s
Glyceryl p-aminobenzoãte 3%
Propylene glycol ricinoleate 10
Glycerol 10
Alcohol 65
Water 12
Part A
Stearic acid 200%
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Methyl anihranilate 5.0
Part B
Ammonia (260) 1.0
Sodium hydroxide 0.4
Glycerol 10.0
Water 63.1
Perfume q.s
Formula 6: Suntan Cream

Part A
Diethyleneglycol monostearate 2.0%
Stearic acid 1.5%
Cetyl alcohol 0.5%
Methyl anthranilate 5.0
Part B
Triethanolamine 1.0
Water 90.0
Perfume q.s
Formula 7: Sunshade Ointment
Calamine 15.0%
Petrolatum, yellow 37.5
Lanolin 12.5
Water 35.0
Perfume and colour q.s.
Sun Screens • 223
Formula 8: "QUARTERMASTER CORPS"

Sunburn Cream
Glyceryl monostearate 13.00%

Lanolin 4.70%
Propylene glycol 4.70%
Sodium lauryl sulfate (LOS
Isobutyl p-aminobenzoate 2.00
Isopropyl myristate-palmilate 20.00
Water 53.05
Colour q.s
Formula 9: Sun Cream
Phenyl salicylatc 5.00%

Ethyl aminobenzoatc 2.00
Ncocalaniine 1.00
Yellow ferric oxide 0,10
Coumarin 0.10
While wax 2.00
Stearyl alcohol 8.00
Stearic acid 2.00
Glycerol 10.00
Water, distilled 68.30
Perfume q.s
Formula 10: Sunburn Preventive Preparation
Petrolatum, light amber 36.5%

Stearyl alcohol 3.5
Mineral oil 2.0
Sesameoll 15.0
Calcium stearate 10.0
Kaolin 30.0
Sunscreen, approved 3 to 8
Treatment of Sunburn
Serious sunburns are usually referred to a physician. Lesser ones
but nevertheless painful may be treated by palliative preparations
preferably liquid with low viscosity. A mild antiseptic may be added
to prevent infections. Tannic acid solutions which was earlier used
for treatment of different burns have since lost favour with the
medical authorities. While oil-in-water lotion are both cooling and
soothing. Oils and greases are not used because they tend to pro-
duce the effect of a cover or a blanket on the skin thereby prevent-
ing escape of heat. Further, they may interfere with the action of
analgesic and antiseptic substances present in the formulation. Pro-
pylene glycol is used in these formulations as a mild antiseptic.
Few examples of palliative mixtures.
Formula 11: Cooling Lotion (Calamine Type)
Zinc oxide 15.0%

Talc 15.0
Bentonite 5.0
Water. distilled 60.0
Formula 12: Astringent Lotion, Mild
Zinc sulfocarbonate 3.0%

Camphor water 92.0
Sun Screens • 225
Formula 13: Cooling Emulsion
Mineral oil, light 10.0%

Lanolin 2.5
Triethanolamine oleate 5.0
Water, distilled 80.0
LABEL DECLARATION
A sunburn preparation may be both a "Cosmetic" and a "Drug".
11
Eye-makeup
Products
VER THE AGESthe practice of using products for eye-makeup,
O in and around the area of eyes existed.
These products include
1.Eye shadow or eyeshade cream, stick, or liquid. The cream
is either an emulsion or a liquefying type.
2. Eye-cream generally is a water-in-oil emulsion, and is not
actually a part of make-up; but can be considered under
cosmetics.
3. Eye-brow Pencil: This is either a crayon or an extruded
pencil.
4. Mascara: This is made as a cake, cream or liquid. Cake is
either pressed or moulded.
RAW MATERIALS
All the raw materials that are chosen are to be pure, safe, nontoxic
and non-irritating for any of these formulations. Equally the fin-
ished products should also be checked for the same qualities.
Pigments: The main purpose of eye-make up is to accentuate the
Eye-Makeup Products • 227
area of the eye with colour. Coal tar colours alone are not permit-
ted; only inorganic pigments and natural colours are permitted by
the licensing authorities. The main colouring agents are carbon black,
iron and chromium oxide pigments, and carmine NE All these colours
should be insoluble in water or oil soluble and must be very pure.
Black: Either Carbon black; or Vegetable or Charcoal black or
Iron oxide black.
Blue: Prussian blue, or Ultramarine blue.
Brown: Iron oxides, Sienna shade.
Yellow: Iron oxides, Ochre shade.
Red: Carmine NF (Aluminum lake of the cochincal pigment)
In order to change to lighter shaded titanium dioxide or zinc ox-
ide are used.
Raw Materials
Petrolatum: The white short fiber variety with a melting point of
43°C is recommended. Its physical properties and its higher stabil-
ity are of great value in making these products.
Lanolin: A cosmetic grade and anhydrous variety with melting
point 38°C to 40°C is used in eye shadows and mascaras for its
lubricating and adhering qualities.
Ceresin: A microcrystalline mixture of hydrocarbons of complex
composition, ceresin is available in various grades with melting points
over a wide range for eye products. The 68°C melting point grade
is recommended. Its use enables the formulator to stiffen the prepa-
ration and flexibility (malleability).
Carnauba Wax: This wax is available in several grades. he yel-
low No. 1, melting point 85°C purified and bleached is recommended,
particularly for its high melting point. It forms a film, which is water
repellent, and it counteracts the solubilizing action of soaps in wa-
ter, which is a desirable quality in mascara formuations. Finally,
carnauba wax gives a luster to the dried application.
Special Products
Although there are many varieties of eyeshades, the liquefying type
of the cream is most popular. But such a cream should possess
easy spreadability, and the stability of the colour on the eyelids with-
out giving a shiny appearance to that part of the face.
A few desirable shades of eye shadow are given below.
(a) Blue: 20 pans Ultramarine, 10 parts Titanium dioxide
(b) Green: IS parts Titanium dioxide 10 parts Chromium oxide
green.
(c) Brown: 30 parts Iron oxide (Sienna shade) 5 parts Tita-
nium dioxide.
(d) Violet: 20 parts of Ultramarine 10 parts of Titanium dioxide
+ a small quantity of Carmine NE
Darker shades can be obtained by increasing the percentage of
ultramarine and decreasing the percentage of titanium dioxide.
For evening glitter, a small amount of pearl powder is pressed
over the tinted eye shadow. To get a "gold" effect aluminum pow-
der with various pigments can be used.
A general formula for a liquecying cream eye shadow.
Formula 1
Petrolaluni white (IT) 65%
Lanolin anhydrous 38-40°C 5
Ceresin white 67°C 10
Bees wax white 5
Mineral oil 65/75 IS
Procedure
Mix the required amount of titanium dioxide with colours with the
melted petrolatum. Then grind the mixture through a roller mill. In a
separate container, melt together the other ingredients and add the
ground colour paste to this molten mixture, stirring the entire mass
well. Pour the melted product directly into container, with a hand
filler.
However1-the proportions of the ingredients can be varied at the
discretion of the formulator for e.g.
Formula 2: Emulsifying Cream Eye Shadow

Lanolin anhydrous 10%
Spermaceti 13
Petrolatum short fiber 77
Formula 3: Emulsifying Cream Eye Shadow

Petrolatum jelly 75%
Coca butter odourless grade S
Lanolin 7
Cetyl alcohol 3
Paraffin wax, microcrystalline 7
Pigment q.s
Preservative q.s
In this formulation as it is an emulsion base, the stability should

be thoroughly taken care off, and any probable problems should be
encountered. They should be filled cold into the containers.
Formula 4
Stcaric acid (Triple pressed) - 6%
Triethanolamine 4
Petrolatum jelly soft fiber type 25
Anhydrous wool fat 5
Propylene glycol 5
Water 45
Colour q.s
Procedure
Heat all the waxes put together and melt at 70°C, Heat the water
and the triethanolamine to the same temperature. Add the water
phase slowly tot the melted waxes and stir until room temperature
is reached. The pirnents should be ground in.
The stick eye shadow is today as popular as the cream form.
.,
Formula 5: Stick Eye Shadow
Ceresin white 67°c 26%

Hydrogenated cotton seed oil 5
Castor oil 43
Carnauba wax 4
Mineral oil 75/85 6
Titanium dioxide 8
Iron oxide ochre 4
Iron oxide sienna shade 4
Formula 6: Stick Eye Shadow
Ozokerite white 70 to 75°C 36%

Beeswax yellow 18
Cocoa butter 19
Absorption base 5.5
Oleyl alcohol 3.0
Zinc oxide 2.0
Ultramarine blue 4.0
LIÔUID EYE SHADOW

Suspension Type
In the liquid eye shadows category there are two types in the mar-
ket. The first is suspension of a pigment in a mixture of oils. In such
a product, the pigment usually settles. The label must carry the
suggestion to shake well before using. The second being the emul-
sion cream type. Although the percentage of pigment in the liquid
- . Eye-Makeup Products • 231
suspensions is equivalent to that of the cream type, the possibility of
settlement of pigment in the latter is much less.
Formula 7
Isopropyl myristate 200%

Cornell 20.0
Preservative 0.2
Formula 8
Sulfated cetyl alcohol 1.8%

Sorbitan monostearate 0.4
Methyl cellulose 400 cps 1.5
Ethyl alcohol SD 10.0
Water 79,8
Pigments q.s
EYEBROW PENCILS
There are two types of pencils. The crayon and the extruded pen-
cil. The crayon is similar to a cream type eye shadow. The colours
used are of the same character as those used in the latter, but the
black and brown pigments are used in higher percentage.
The extruded eyebrow pencil although formulated as a crayon,
is packed in wooden casing.
MASCARA
Mascara is one of the most ancient toilet preparations; being in use
since biblical times. Its purpose is to make the eyelashes appear
longer, thereby enhancing the beauty of eyes. Mascara should not
have a tendency to run. It should permit easy and smooth applica-
tions on the lashes. It should not dry out too quickly and it should not
"cake" or give a bristling effect to the lashes.
The early mascaras were simply pressed cakes containing soap

and pigments. A simple but typical product of this type may be
made according to the following formula.
Formula 9: Soap t yp e Cake Mascara

Carbon black 50%
Coconut oil sodium soap 25
Palm oil sodium soap 25
Procedure
Carefully sift the pigment and combine with the soap chips. Pass
the mixture several times through a mill and then through a podder.
Finally press into cakes.
Although these types of products are still available in the market
triethanolamine oleate or stearate is finding increasing favour in the
market. These triethanolamine salts enable a product of lower al-
kalinity, with a lesser irritational potential.
Formula 10: Stearate t yp e Cake Mascara

Triethanolamine stearate 54.0%
Carnauba wax yellow No.1 85°C 25.0
Paraffin 45 0C 12.5
Lanolin anhydrous USP 4.5
Carbon black 3.8
Propyt p-hydroxy benzonate 0.2
Procedure
Melt the waxes add the colours and mix well. Run the entire mass
through a heated roller mill, remelt the ground material and pour
into molds with slow stirring.
In the above formulas the black colour can be replaced by
ultramariari blue, iron oxide brown (burnt Sienna) iron oxide yellow
(ochre) and other combinations of these pigments to yield almost
any desired shade.
Glyceryl monostearate self-emulsifying 40%

Propylene glycol monostearate self-emulsifying 10
Stearic acid triple pressed 20
Bees wax white 10
Mixed triisopropanolamines 10
Pigments 10
Formula 12: Stearate type Cake Mascara
Triethanolamine stearate 54.0%

Bees wax yellow 6.2
Glyceryl monostearate 6.2
Carnauba wax yellow No.1 18.0
Lanolin anhydrous US? 7.6
Carbon black 3.0
Formula 13: Cream Mascara

Part A
Stearic acid US? (triple pressed) 9.1% 11.2%
Petrolatum (43°C) 5.5
Mineral oil 65175 9.1
Isopropyl inyristate 7.3
Glyceryl monostearate (56°C) 4.5
Part B
Triethanolainine 2.75% 3.6%
Water 64.45 55.0
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate - 0.2
Pigments 9.1 9.1
Procedure
Melt part A and heat to 60°C. In a separate container, heat part B

to the same temperature. Add B to A, while stirring. Incorporate
the pigments in the combined mix.
Cake mascara is applied with a water-wetted brush. Moisture
causes emulsification of the mascara, producing a colour " pay off'
on the lashes. Cream mascara is but another version of cake mas-
cara with the hardness of the mass cut down by the water to such
a degree of softness, that the product can be filled into tubes. Cream
mascara is applied with a constant amount of water, whereas the
application of the cake mascara depends upon the technique of the
individual user. A typical cream mascara may be prepared to the
above formula. Finally there is a liquid mascara. Although good
preparations of this type have been made and placed on the mar-
ket, liquid mascara has not won any great acceptance, may be due
to lack of difference from other preparations. It also has a draw-
back of both water solubility and stickiness. Recently modifications
have been made with resins in alcoholic solutions, in which carbon
black is suspended. Castor oil is often included in the formula, for
the sake of some water resistance.
Formula 14
Gum Lragacanth 0.2% -

Ethyl alcohol 8.0 84%
Water 83.6 -
Rosin 10% in ethyl alcohol - 3
Caster oil - 3
Carbon black 8.0 10
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate 0.2 -
Preservative - -
Eye Creams
These are used on the eyelashes as well as around the eyes. Their
Eye-Makeup Products • 235.
purpose is to reduce dryness by lubricating the delicate, thin-skinned
eye-area.
Analysis
Chemical, toxicological, shelf and, consumer use tests must be car-

ried out.
12
Baby Toiletries!
Products
INTRODUCTION
ABY SKIN IS TENDER, delicate and therefore needs special care
B and protection for its maintenance in a healthy condition. The
probable damages are through infections, weather and poor hy-
gienic conditions. In order to keep these harmful influences away,
special baby care products were developed and are still being per-
fected. In the orient, the tender skin is mainly protected by applica-
tion of oil. These oils are mainly of vegetable origin like castor oil,
gingelly oil, groundnut oil etc. And in the occident oils like olive and
almond are blended with mineral oil. Then came the practice of
important antiseptic lotions and emulsions followed by creams. Pow-
ders and bath soaps have also found a place in the evolution of
baby toiletries. In the orient instead of bath soaps, oil bath with flour
of pulses scented with mild organic aromatic ingredients is in prac-
tice even today. The baby soaps are ofcourse most commonly used
in maintaining the tender skin soft and free from scaling. This chap-
ter deals with a few important baby toiletries and reserves the herbal
preparations for volume II.
Recent advances in baby toiletries include baby massage oils,
baby shampoos, baby soaps etc.
Baby Toiletries/Products • 237
Baby Toiletries
Baby toiletries include powder, oil, lotion, cream, soap, shampoo,
cotton swabs, soft wash clothes and brushes.
The skin of the child is thinner, less cornified and less hairy then
adults. Chemical analysis shows a higher proportion of water and
extra cellular fluid minerals. There is a tendency toward peeling
and flaking of stratum during the first 3 weeks in newborn babies.
SKIN CARE OF THE NEW BORN

Proper care of the skin in the newborn infant is important in pre-
venting infection. At present the consensus seems to be manipula-
tion to reduce the danger of infection. It is recommended that no
water o h Tbath be given during the first 7-10 days after birth in
some countries. The buttocks may be gently wiped away from the
folds of the infant's skin with warm sterile mineral oil or sterile
cotton or soft cloth. Each time the diaper is changed; sterile veg-
etable oil should be applied to the soiled or wet areas of the skin.
In the group of external antiseptic application the prepara-
tion most commonly used was ammoniated mercury ointment. An-
other method in the prevention and treatment of skin infection of
new born is the use of various sulfonamide ointments. But recently
either antibiotic ointments or simple boric acid ointment are being
used depending on the situation.
Baby Oils
During 7 to 10 days in the nursery, care of the diaper area varies,
tap water, sterile water, baby oil, or lotion being used for the re-
moval of facial soil. Skin folds are cleansed with water and applied
with oil, alcohol or left alone.
These preparations are based on light mineral oil and veg-
etable oils (peanut, sesame, olive, cotton seed). Some oils contain
3-hydroxy quinoline, chlorobutenol, hexachlorophene as the anti-
septic and an antioxidant.
Antiseptic baby oils are far less irritating than ammoniated mer-
cury hence they are being encouraged.
Baby Lotions
The oily preparation by covering the skin with a continous impervi-
ous, multi molecular film might interfere with important functions
such as respiration and eliminating body toxins and thus predispose
among other things to miliana. So the use of lotions started. An oil
in water lotion appeared to be more effective and comfortable than
antiseptic oils.
Cationic Lotion
Another method for the skin care of the newborn and infant is the
use of mildy acidic, antiseptic, cationic lotions. These emulsions are
based on the use of quaternary ammonium and pyridinium com-
pounds in oil-in-water lotion stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers.
These lotions appeared to have a beneficial effect in decreasing
the rashes on the infant's skin.
Care of the Diaper Area

The hygienic aspect of the cleaning procedures used in this area is
of considerable importance to the age of 2 to 3 years. Types of
treatment involved in removing gross contamination of body ex-
cretes include the use of warm water, soap and water. Mineral oil,
vegetable oil, mildy acid detergents antiseptic mineral oil lotions and
cationic lotions. Occasionally the emollient oils or lotions are ap-
plied following the use of soap or detergent.
Diaper Rash
The urinary and faecal excretions of the infant are a constant source
of irritation and contamination to the adjacent areas. The diaper,
fitting in close proximity to the skin, concentrates this liquid and
semi liquid material in a warm, moist, and airtight area when plastic
material is used. The stool and urine passed by the infant remain in
intimate contact with the skin until the diaper change. The least
serious reaction to wet diapers is laceration of the skin in its folds,
caused by moisture and fiction resulting in painful, reddened and
Baby ToiletrieslPraducts • 239
weeping areas scalded in appearance. This is known as intertrigo,
which further gives rise to a skin disorder.
The wet diaper is a medium for bacterial growth which may
produce enough ammonia from urea in the urine to cause dermati-
tis commonly known as diaper rash. It is characterized by redden-
ing of the whole diaper area.
Other contributory factors in the development of diaper rash
include the use of improperly laundered diapers which are rough
and coarse alkaline soap or detergent residues remaining in poorly
rinsed diapers and antiseptic solutions used to rinse diapers. Occa-
sionally diaper rash and perianal dermatitis are caused by faulty
diets and gastrointestinal disorder.
It was proved that ammonia was the result of the presence of
faecal bacteria, which liberates ammonia from the urea in the urine.
CO(NH2)2+2H2O -* (NH)2CO3 -, 2NH 3 + H20+CO2
Brown and co-workers stated that it is primarily due to other
ammonia producing pathogenic organisms such as B.Proteus,
pseudomonas pyocanea and staphylococous aureus.
It would be ideal to change the diaper immediately after it becomes
wet. The diaper left wet on this region for some period of time will give
ample opportunity for formation of ammonia.
This severe skin irritations can be eliminated by treatment of the
diaper itself and by the procedures used in cleaning and care of the
diaper area. Cookers found that diapers treated with 1: 400 dilution
of mercuric chloride in a final rinse showed a bacteriostatic action
while wet with urine, preventing the growth of urea-splitting B-
ammoniagenes. Further, to inhibit the urea splitting organisms cat-
ionic quaternary ammonium salts were used. -
Ex. p-diisobutyl cresoxy ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl ammo-
nium chloride monohydrate (Hyamine 10-X)
Catonic Ointments/Mechanism of Action

The theory involved in treating the diaper area with a nonvolatile
antiseptic is that the urine picks up the antiseptic from the diaper
and carries it into the skin. It is thus brought into intimate contact
with the urea splitting organisms and effectively inhibits their del-
eterious action. These authors stated that a water-repellent oint-
ment superimposed between the diaper and the skin obviously de-
feats the purpose of treating the diaper and therefore a water mis-
cible ointment containing the antiseptic is indicated.
Ex. Water miscible ointment containing p-diisobutyl cresoxy
ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride monohydrate.
The cleaning procedure used in the care of the diaper area in-
clude soap and water, detergent emulsions, mineral and vegetable
oils, antiseptic mineral oil lotions, and cationic lotions; occasionally
oils, lotions, and creams are used as emollients following the use of
soaps and synthetic detergents.
Baby Oils
The most convenient method of cleaning the diaper area is by the
use of light mineral oil and lotions followed by dusting with talcum
powder. The oil is applied to all parts of soiled area and removed
with absorbent cotton. A residual film or oil remains in the cervices
and on the skin providing an emollient hydrophobic barrier against
urine as well as preventing friction and chafing by serving as lubri-
cant between the skin surface. Later on, an opinion was expressed
that oils coat the skin and seal off the glands which may precipitate
miliana. So the lotions came into the picture.
Baby Lotions
The increasingly popular cleaning products probably at the expense
of baby oils are antiseptic nonionic, anionic and cationic lotions.
The oil-in-water lotions have the advantage over the oils in provid-
ing a source of water for the water soluble soil.
Ex. oil-in-water-lotion containing mineral oil, lanolin and 1%
hexachlorophene as antiseptic measure against diaper rash.
Examples for anionic oil-in-water lotions are silicon oil, the non-
irritant keratolytic and the relatively nonsensitizing bactericidal action
of the hexachlorophene and the emollient oils. Cationic oil-in-water
lotions include p-diisobutyl cresoxy ethoxyethyl dimethyl benzyl am-
monium chloride monohydrate and ethyl pyridinium chloride.
Baby lotions have been formulated to prevent and cure diaper
rash, check diaper odour, soften and hydrate the skin and provide
an emollent lubricating oily film in the skin folds to prevent friction
and subsequent chafing. This is achieved essentially with antisep-
tics, mineral oil, lanolin nonionic and cationic emulsifiers and possi-
bly cholesterol. This oil-wax component is applied to the skin as
the dispersed phase initially but after evaporation of the water it
coalesces to form a continuous hydrophobic oil film.
Baby Powders
This is one of the most useful product in the list of baby toiletries
and unanimously recommended by all pediatricians. The excellent
slip characteristics of a cosmetic grade of platelet talc serves as a
lubricant where skin surfaces are in apposition, asinJhe groin, be-
tween the buttocks, in the neck and in the axillae. Jntertrigo, the
redness and macreratium that tend to occur where cutaneous sur-
faces are in apposition is very common in infants, especially in the
diaper area. So the powder is carefully applied to the skin folds. It
also helps to accelerate evaporation of perspiration (during hot
months) acts as a water repellent and serves as a lubricant to pre-
vent chafing.
Boric acid has been used as an antiseptic and buffer in baby
powders. Later on scientists like Brooke & Boggs stated that the
therapeutic value of boric acid is doubtful and its antiseptic quality
minimal. Johnstone and co-workers emphasised that boric acid is
added to talcum powder because it is one of the most practical
buffering agents for this purpose and not as an antiseptic. 5% boric
acid in talc was practically unabsorbed through the intact skin of
infants even if erythema were present. They pointed out that boric
acid when mixed with talc and subsequently wetted yielded much
higher degree of dissociation than boric acid in solution, due to the
formation of calcium, and magnesium borate. In 1954 Food and
Drug Administration made a study of borated powders and con-
fined preparations with boric acid to 5% concentration which is
what is used in baby talc in the market.
Another raw material used in baby powders is corn starch in
place of talc. Its supporters claim that it does not dust as freely as
talc and acts as an adsorbent for moisure and is beneficial to the
baby's skin.
Ex. 1:1800 methyl benzethonium chloride in corn starch as a
preventive measure against diaper rash and intertrigo they found
that cationic-corn starch powder was more effective in curing dia-
per rash and intertrigo.
Baby Creams
These generally have a higher ratio of oil-wax/water phase than
the lotions and hence provide a great degree of emollience and
lubrication per unit weight of product. These are used after the
baby's daily bath to prevent chafing of those skin surfaces which
are in apposition and for their emollient effect to soften, relieve and
prevent chapping of the skin exposed to cold climates and low
humidity.
These generally contain zinc oxide, antiseptics, fungicides, and
antibiotics, vitamins, cod liver oil, polyunsaturated fatty acids orglyc-
erides, antipruritics, anesthetics, sun screen or insect repellents.
The antiseptics currently used in baby creams and ointments in-
clude hexachlorophene and cationics, in the same concentrations
as used in lotions.
CARE OF HAIR & SCALP

The baby's hair and scalp are washed with the same soap or detergent
used during the daily bath. These may be one of the so called baby
soaps which are usually white hard-milled 'neutral" type, "super fat-
ted" toilet soaps, or a shampoo prepared from olive oil. Another piepa-
ration for bathing and shampooing is a detergent emulsion containing
an alkyl phenoxy polyoxyether sulfonate (Trition X-200), hexachlo-
rophene, cholesterol and other lanolin alcohols buffered to PH 5.5 with
lactic acid. Other detergents which are recommended for baby sham-
poos include an amphoteric alkyl ethanol imidazolinium sodium car-
boxylate (Miranol derivative) a protein polypeptide fatty acid conden-
sation product (Maypon 'IC) and the mild foaming polyglycol fatty acid
esters and polyglycol ether esters of sorbitol anhydrides (Tweens).
Refer formulas 37 & 38.
The critical requisites which govern the formulation of a safe
baby shampoo are pH, skin and eye irritation and eye sting. To
minimize this baby shampoos should be buffered to pH of lacrimal
fluid (pH: 7.2 to 7.4). Jenkin & Cournkers stated that eye tissue is
not greatly irritated by slight acidity is evident from the fact that a
half saturated solution of boric acid (pH about 4.8) is commonly
used as a collyrium. So, it is quite safe to keep the solution at pH
between 4.5 and 8.5.
Formulation and Raw materials: The ingredients used in the
formulation of baby toiletries are selected from those generally used
in adult cosmetics and hence conform to the standard TGA, liSP
and NF specification.
The raw materials for baby toiletries may include emollient oils
and waxes, emulsifiers humectants, antiseptics, preservatives, anti-
oxidants talc, corn starch, zinc oxide detergents and perfume oils.
Formulas for Baby Oils

Principal ingredient of baby oils is light mineral oil with other emol-
lients such as vegetable oils and lanolin or its soluble derivatives.
Antiseptics and antioxidants and perfume oils are generally added
where desired. Chlorothymol and chiorobutanol have been replaced
with hexachlorophene.
The antioxidants may include propyl gallate, butylated hydroxya-
nisole and tocopherol.
23 4 5
Mineral oil, light 98.9% 73.85% 49.4% 39.4% 88.9%
Vegetable oil - 25.00 - - -
Lanolin - - 5.0 - -
Isopropyl myristate - - 19.5 9.5 7.0
Lantrol - - 25.0 50.0 -
Lanogene - - - - 3.0
Hexachlorophene 1.0 1.0 1 1.0 1.0 1.0
Antioxidant - 0.05 - - -
Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 01
6 7 8 9 JO
Mineral oil, light 79.85% 87.85% 93.9% 93.9% 58.9%
Isopropylan No.50 20.00 - - - -
Lanosol — 12.GO - - -
Acetulan - - 5.0 - -
Modulan — - - 5.0 -
Myvacet Type 9-40 — — - - 30.0
Lanolin - - - - 10.0
Hexachlorophene - - 1.0 1.0 1.0
Chlorothymol 0.05 0.05 - - -
Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Baby Lotions Formulas
A popular product for cleaning the diaper area and for applying an
emollient material to the skin is in the form of a lotion or emulsion.
These lotions may be formulated with anionic, nonionic or cationic
emulsifiers, as well as with nonionic-anionic and nonionic-cationic
combination. The emollient antiseptics and other additives may be
included.
Part A
II 12
Lanolin 1.00% -
Cetyl alcohol 1.00-
Arlacel 80 2.10 -
Tween 80 4.90 -
Velvaril silicone fluid 1000 5.00 -
Arlacel 83 — 2.00%
Atlas G-1425 - 4.50
Bees wax - 2.00
Petrolatum - 7.50
Mineral oil, light 35.00 35.00
Part B
Water 50,60 48.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Part A
13 14 IS
Cetyl alcohol 0.20% 0.52% -
Tween 60 050 - -
Stearic acid 1.00 0.94 -
Bees wax 2. - -
Arlacel 60 5.00 - -.
Lantrol 10.00 - -
Isopropyl palmitate 10.00 - -
Oleic acid - - 3.00%
Stearyl alcohol - 894 -
Lanolin - 1.04 1.00
TeginP - - 650
Mineral oil light 10.00 26.00 24.00
Propyl paraben 0.15 - 0.15
Butyl paraben - 0.01 -
Part B
13 14 iS
Methyl paraben 015 0.09 0.15
Glycerol 5.00 - -
Triethanolamine 0.40 0.52 1.50
Borax 0.10 - -
Sodium alginate - 0.36 -
Water 55.25 69.33 63.45
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25
Nonionic - Anionic Type
Part A
16 17
Stearic acid 2.00% 2.5% 2.5%
Isopropyl palmitate 2.00 -
Lanolin 5.00 - 2.00
- Beeswax 8.00 -
Polyglycol 400 monostearate 10.00 -
Clyceryl monostearate pure - 2.00
Amerchol L-I01 - 9.00
Oleic acid 1.50
- Hexachlorophene 1.00
Mineral oil light 15.00 4.50 25.00
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15
Propylene glycol 5.00 4.50
Glycerol 3.50
Triethanolamine 1.00 1.00 1.30
Water 51.45 75.95 62.65
0.25 0.25 0.25
Nonionic - Cationic Type
Part A
19 20 21
etyl alcohol 0.50% 0.50% -
Glyceryl monostearaLe (pure) 1,00 .1.00 -
Isopropyl palmitate - 3.0 - -
Lanolin '00 1.00 2.00%
Mineral oil light 5.00 - 2.00
Amerchol L-10 - 8.00 -
Tegin - - 6.00
Part -
Glycerol 3.00 3.00 -
Sorbitol - - 2.00
Lactic acid 0.10 0.10 -
Emcel E-60 0.25 - -
Hyarnine - 0.15 015
Water 85.90 86.00 87.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10
Antiseptic baby lotion and cream can be formulated with cat-

ionic quaternary ammonium, pyridinium and morpholinium salts, as
well as with the newer amino amphoteric surface active agents
which have antiseptic properties at acidic pH values. The inclusion
of cationics in emulsions does not indicate necessarily a complete
correlation between the germicidal properties in aquous solutions
and on the skin. The lotion and cream invariably contain materials
which have small amounts of free fatty acid such as would be
found in glyceryl monostearate and other non ionic fatty acid es-
ters, lanolin and bees wax. The cationic compound would be inac-
tivated by interaction with the fatty acid on a molecular basis.
Therefore an excess is required which may be calculated from the
acid value of the oil-wax phase.
Formulas for Baby Cream

Although lotions are used for cleaning the diaper area and as light
lubricants in skin folds the creams find greatest use in areas requir-
ing more effective skin softening and protection, particularly fol-
lowing the daily bath.
The creams may be formulated both as oil-in-water and water-
in-oil emulsions. The former are hydrophilic and deposit a continu-
ous semi-permeable film on the skin. If the water content is rela-
tively high, rapid evaporation of the externaL aquous phase from the
skin surface may be excessively cooling, Water-in-oil emulsions
deposit a continuous, less permeable, hydrophobic film on the skin.
The slower evaporation of water from the internal phase charac-
terized this type as a "warm" emulsion and may be preferable for

infants.
Formulas 22 to 30 may be formulated as antiseptic baby creams
by the incorporation of 0.5 to 1% of a chlorinated bis-phenol (such
as hexachlorophene or bithionol) provided such creams meet the
standards of antiseptic activity as described above, Cationic am-
monium, pyridinium and morpholinium compounds may be added at
concentrations of 0.1 to 0.25% to those formulas which do not
contain free fatty acids.
Part A
22 23
Lanolin 300% -
Atlas G-1702 5.00 -
Atlas (3-1726 5.00 -
Bees wax 5.00 5.00%
Arlacel 60 3.00
Tween 60 4.00
Hydrogenated vegetable oil 25.00 17.50
Mineral oil, light 20.00 26.00
Antixodant 0.05 0.05
Part B

Sorbitol 5.00
Citric acid 0.10
Water 36.55 38.95
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Formulas for Creams: 01W Nonionic Types

Part A
24 25
Lanolin 1.00% -
Isopropyl myristate 4.30 -
Polyglycol 1000 monostcratc 6.00 -
Stearic acid 7.20 -
Bees wax — 3.00%
Spermaceti - 3.00
Glyceiyl monostearate, pure 4.50 12.00
Mineral oil light - 30.00
Part B
Propylene glycol 2.50 -
Glycerol - 8.00
Water 74.10 43.6
Perfume 0.10 0.10
W/O Nonionic Types

Part A
26 27
Atlas G-1441 1.00% -
Atlas G-1425 5.00 4.00%
Bees wax 2.00 -
Stearic acid 15.00 -
Lanolin 1,00 1.00
Arlacel 83 - 2.00
Paraffin - 10.00
Mineral oil 15.00 15.00
Petrolatum - 35.00
Pad B
Sorbitol 10.00 2,50
Water 50.60 30,10
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Cream: W/O Nonionic Types

Part A
28 29 30
Glyceryl monostearate (pure) 5.00% - 10.00%
Petrolatum 5.00 - 10.00
Mineral oil tight 15.00 25.00% 10.00
Microcrystalline wax (175°F) 10.00 5.00 -
Amerchol L 101 15.00 10.00 -
Lanolin — 10.00 -
Bees wax - - 5.00
Lanolin absorption base - - 25.00
Part B
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15

Water 49.60 49.60 39.60
Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10
Formulas for Baby Powders

The composition of baby powders has an antiseptic ingredient and
is not so stongly perfumed. Talc a natural hydrous magnesium
silicate H1OMg3(SiO3)4 remains the most important constituent of
baby powders. It has excellent slip characteristics and good adhe-
sion to the skin.
The particle size and shape are very important. The best cos-
metic grades of domestic and imported talc are imperative and
should pass through a 325 mesh screen (44 microns);
Baby Thiietries.fProducts • 251
The optimum range for a baby powder is 10 to 40 microns. Mi-

cro pulverization may be used to disperse the perfume oils uni-
formly throughout the powder.
Baby powders are used as lubricants in skin folds to prevent
chafing, to absorb perspiration and relieve prickly heat, and to im-
part a clean pleasant fragrance to the baby's skin.
3 to 5% zinc and magnesium stearate were used to give velvety
smoothness to the powder and later on replaced by lithium stearate
which is non toxic and has a high degree of water repellency and oil
absorbency.
Olive oil can also be added to talc in place of zinc stearate to
improve adherence and emollience on the skin to impart greater
water repellency to the powder.
2 to 5% zinc oxide also added for its special properties.
Colloidal kaolin (a hydrated aluminum silicate) is ued in baby
powder for its high moisture absorptive capacity.
Excellent emollient effects may be achieved by the incorpora-
tion of 0.5 to 1.5% cetyl or stearyl alcohol in baby powders.
The starches used in baby powder as the major ingredients in place
of talc with 0.5% methyl benzethonium chloride as the antiseptic. They
do not dust as talc and have absorptive capacities for moisture. The
disadvantage with the starch is that it forms a sticky paste when moist-
ened with water and acts as a substrate for bacteria.
A chemically modified corn starch known as Dry-Flo (142 to
145) is available as an ester which imparts water-repellent charac-
teristics to the starch molecules.
The perfume selected must have great stability against oxidation
and polymerization.
31 32 33 34 35 36
Talc 99.75% 97.25% 97.25% 92.25% 90.25% 96.75%
Lithium stearate -..- 2.50 - 2.50 2.50 -
Oliveoil - - 2.50 - - -
Kaolin - - - 5.00 5.00 -
Zinc oxide - - - - 2.00 3.00
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
39 40 41
Corn starch 99.70% - - - -
Rice starch - 99.70% - - -
Dry no - - 99.70% 50.00% -
Talc - - - 49.70 84.75%
Calcium undecylenate - - - - 15.00.
Hyamine tO. X 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 -
Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0,25 0.25
Formulas for Baby Shampoo
Sodium lauryl ether (3.0) sulfate 70% 6.00

Cocarnidopropyl betaine 30% 12.00
Polyoxyethytene (80) sorbitan monolaurate 6.00
Polyethylene glycol distearate 1.50
Water 74.50
Perfume, preservative colour 45
Tearless surfactant (Miranol) 40.00

Sodium lauryl ether (2.0) sulfate 5.00
Lauramide DEA 2.00
Water 48.00
Perfume, preservative 45
13
Shampoos
uS BELIEVED that the word "Shampoo" has its origin in Hindustani

anguage meaning to "Squeeze".
While before the advent of shampoo, a cake of soap was used
for washing hair, today shampoo is very popularly used for the pur-
pose by both men and women. Originally shampoos were of soaps
or a mixture of soaps, whereas synthetic detergents are used in the
majority of commercial shampoos.
DEFINITION OF A SHAMPOO
"A preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface active material) in a

suitable form-liquid, solid, or powder which when used under the
conditions specified will remove surface grease, dirt and skin de-
bris from the hair, shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the
hair, scalp or the health of the user".
SHAMPOO TYPES AND FORMS
Shampoos are available in many types and forms and are classified
according to their physical appearance, their special ingredients or
properties. These forms are: liquid clear shampoo, liquid creams or
cream lotion shampoos, cream paste shampoos, egg shampoos
herbal shampoos, dry shampoos, liquid dry shampoos, colour sham-
poos, and aerosol shampoos. In addition to these 1) medicated
shampoos 2) special shampoos 3) for tender scalp of babies (baby

shampoo) are also available.
Liquid Shampoo
When a shampoo is based upon soap, it is frequently a potassium
salt, when based on a synthetic, it is often a triethanolamine salt.
Liquid shampoos are also made from sulfonated oils and are fre-
quently promoted as oil shampoo or hot oil shampoos. These for-
mulations may contain mineral oil which does not rinse out easily
and thereby remains as a dressing on the hair. Liquid shampoo's
popularity lies in its easy application, excellent foaming and easy
rinsing.
Formula for Liquid Shampoo
Coconut oil 14%

Olive oil 3
Castor oil 3
Potassium hydroxide 85% 5
Glycerol 2
Ethyl Alcohol 4
Sodium hexametaphosphate
Perfume 0.3
Water 68
Liquid Cream or Cream Lotion Shampoo

Liquid cream shampoo specializes on conditioning action whereby
the hair is more lustrous, softer and easier to manage. Some con-
tain lanolin, others dispersed egg powder and many contain
ethanolamides of the higher fatty acids which are known for their
conditioning action.
Shampoos • 255
Formula for Liquid Shampoos
Triethanolamine Iauryl sulfate (C 1 , to C 18 ) 35%

Sodium alginate 2.5
Water 62.5
Creams or Creams Paste Shampoo
In recent years the synthetic detergents have been formulated into

cream type products. By careful formulation an excellent cream
paste shampoo can be obtained either from a soap or a synthetic
detergent.
Water 81%
Sodium lauryl sulfate (C 10 to C1) -
Sodium stearate -
Lanolin -
Calcium alginate 2
Sodium citrate 1
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate 10
Glycerol 5
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15
Perfume 0.85
Egg Shampoo
Originally egg shampoos were considered to be exclusively com-
posed of egg. There has been a slight change in the concept of egg
shampoo now wherein the shampoo is based upon a soap or syn-
thetic detergent to which egg powder is added. These shampoos
were recommended in hard water areas and for extremely dry
hair. It is said to leave the hair with improved luster.
1-5% of emulsified or dispersed egg has a stabilizing action on
the foam (improves the dirt dispersing action of the soap or syn-
thetic detergent). However, addition of egg has an excellent sales

promotion value due to psychological reasons rather than therapeu-
tic efficacy.
Herbal Shampoo
These products have recently gained wide popularity although a
few years back they enjoyed a very limited demand. These prod-
ucts had a market in hardwater areas. They are based on a whole
class of saponins that are widely available in nature.
Commercially saponin is usually extracted with water and alco-
hol form its source. Such preparations are usually meant to cleanse
the scalp and to reduce scaliness. They are usually compounded
with rosemary and celandine
Formula for Herbal Shampoo
Quillain bark, (extract) 5%

Ammonium carbonate
Borax 1
Bay leaf oil 0.1
Water 92.9
Liquid Non-aqueous Shampoo

Nonaqueons shampoo is in liquid form and useful in conditions
where the water is hard. They use organic solvents such as Ben-
zene, Carbon tetrachloride etc., for cleaning.
But none of these solvents are safe as far as toxicity and inflam-
mability are concerned. Further, since these are excellent lipid so!-
vents they tend to strip the hair of natural grease or oil. A good
shampoo should not remove and deprive the hair its natural oil.
RAW MATERIALS
Since shampoo formulations comprise of soap and synthetic deter-
gents, their respective uses, difference and advantages would make
Shampoos • 257
an interesting review. Soaps are generally defined as salts of fatty
acids. They were originally obtained by saponification of natural,
animal or vegetable fats and oils with alkali. Of late the fats or oils
are sulfonated or accurately sulfated without splitting the glyceride.
Strictly speaking these sulfated oils are synthetic detergents.
Vegetable Oils and Soaps

The animal and vegetable fats are glycerides of fatty acids. The
general practice over the years has been to formulate soap sham-
poos based upon mixtures of oils so as to obtain desirable propor-
tions of fatty acids. In such mixtures the acids are balanced in such
a way that the desired foaming and cleansing action are obtained.
In general those oils containing shorter-chain fatty acids containing
10-12 linear carbon yield better foaming soaps.
Formula of Vegetable Oil Shampoo
Coconut oil 15%

Palmoil 5
Potassium hydroxide, 90%
Sodium hydroxide, 90%
Ethyl alcohol 7
Water 69
Formula of Triethanolamine Shampoo
Triethanolaniine 5.4%
Oleic acid 5
Coconut fatty acids 4
Propylene glycol 5
Versene 100 0.4
Water 80.2
Olive Oil Shampoo

Olive oil soaps have been considered best for shampoo universally.
258 ' Textbook of Cosmetics
The soap formed is essentially sodium oleate which however does

not produce copious lather. But it is an excellent conditioner be-
cause in olive oil or other castile shampoos some free olive oil is
left in the shampoo which acts as a conditioner.
Coconut Oil Shampoo
In the case of coconut oil soaps, excellent lathering properties are

found. They consist of sodium laurate and sodium myristate. The
simplest coconut oil shampoo is illustrated in formula here under.
Potassium or sodium hydroxide or both have been used as alkali for
saponification of vegetable oils, or for neutralization of free acid.
Recently triethanolamine soaps have become popular.
Formula of Coconut Oil Shampoo
Coconut oil 21%

Pottasium hydroxide, 85% 4
Water 54.!
Glycerol -
Perfume 0,5
Olive oil , 3
Sodium hydroxide, 95% 1.9
Ethyl alcohol IS
Ethylene diaininc tetra acetic acid - 0.5
NEED FOR SYNTHETICS
The water solubility or dispersibility, of soaps is partly due to the

carboxyl group at the end of the long chain hydrocarbons. How-
ever, solubilizing action is neutralized when heavy metal salts are
formed, particularly calcium, magnesium and barium salts. Soaps in
soft water give excellent results generally superior to all types of
synttietics. However, in hard water conditions, the calcium and
magnesium ions react with soaps forming insoluble salts, which are
clouding rather than clearing agents. Synthetics or even a mixture
Shampoos • 259
of synthetics are no match to well formulated soft water soaps
combining wetting, emulsifying and dispersing action while reduc-
ing surface and interfacial tension. Synthetics or mixture of syn-
thetics on the other hand posses only one or two of these charac-
teristics.
ALKYL BENZENE SULFONATES
It was found that if the COOH, group in fatty acids is replaced by
SO3H or SOH groups their soaps do not form insoluble calcium or
magnesium salts.
Sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate
RSO3Na
Sodium alkyl naphthalene sulfonate
RSO3Na
In some of the earlier developments in synthetic detergents, by

varying the size of alkyl group (R) detergent properties of varying
action would be obtaine.
Short chain alkyl group (4-8 carbon atoms) was neither a good
wetting agent nor good emulsifying agent or a detergent, With 10-
14 carbon atoms,
C 1 2H
the product was a good detergent. Sodium keryl benzene sulfonate

derived from a low cost product such as kerosene was developed
which drastically cut sales of soap.
Formula of Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate Shampoo
Sodium keryl benzene sulfonate 20

Glycerol 8
Perfume 0.5
Water 71.5
PRIMARY ALKYL SULFATES

The alkyl sulfates were first developed in Germany where veg-
etable oils and fats were relatively scarce and detergents resistant
to hard water were badly needed. A wide range of sodium alkyl
sulfates were developed and the most are those of C 12-C 18 series
(C 12H25SO4Na to C 181-I37SO4 Na). Some of the sulfates consist of
a triethanolamine salt instead of a sodium salt. In some cases both
these salts have been used together in a shampoo very effectively.
Formulas of Alkyl Sulphate Shampoos
Sodium lauryl sulfate 40% -

Cetyl alcohol - -
Propylene glycol - -
Beeswax - -
Perfume 1 1%
Water 49 44
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate - 45
Ethanolamine of lauric acid 10 10
SULFONATED (SULFATED) OILS

The sulfated oils should be considered as synthetic detergents. They
were first manufactured as back as 1880. One of the more impor-
tant sulfonated oils is sulfated castor oil which has a probable struc-
ture of CH 1(CH 2),CH(OSO,ONa)CH,CHCH(CH,)7 COONa.
These oils are effective in hard as well as soft water. But they tend
to remove colour from the hair (natural or dye). Further, it was
Shampoos • 261
claimed excessive use of these oils tends to leave hair dull, wiry,
and rough.
Here is an illustration of a sulfated olive oil shampoo.
Formula
Water 14%
Sulfated castor oil 75% 59.5
Sulfated olive oil 75% 19.5
Mineral oil light 3.0
Glycerol 3.5
Perfume 0.5
NONIONICS
The nonionic detergents offer a promising range of shampoos al-
though their low yield of foam has caused limited usage. The
nonionics are very water soluble or water dispersible due to the
chain, (OCH 2 CH2) , obtained by reacting ethylene oxide with a
compound having an active hydrogen. Some examples of nonionics
are Triton X-100, Igepal. Myrj, and the Pluronics.
Formula of Nonionic Shampoo
Sodium lauiyl sulfoacetate 4%

Sodium 2-ethyl hexyl
sulfoacetate 9
Sodium n-hexyl sulfoacetate 4
Sodium citrate 2
Gum karaya
Water 80
SHAMPOO ADDITIVES
Certain compounds which are used as shampoo additives and play

an important role in enhancing the performance of a shampoo are
mentioned here below.
OPACIFYING AGENTS
Here are some compounds that opacify soaps or shampoo.
Higher alcohols such as stearyl and cetyl alcohols, higher acids,
such as behenic acid (22 carbons) give opacity.
The glycol mono and distearates, glyceryl and propylene glycol
stearates and palmitates, are also effective opacifiers.
In some cases gaubers salt has been used, so also spermaceti.
Magnesium salts like magnesium stearate and silicate have also
been used for their opacifying action.
The amides and ethanolamides of the fatty acids are used as
opacifying agents as well as conditioning and foaming agents.
Finally the gums are also well known opacifiers.
CLARIFYING AGENTS
Clear shampoos share an equal amount of popularity as opaque
shampoos. Butyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, terpineol,
pine oil, diettiylene glycol, and diethyl carbitol are a clarifying agents
to name a few. A sequestering agent, ethylene diamine tetra acetic
acid (EDTA) is frequently used as a clarifying agent.
FINISHING AGENTS
In the ordinary shampoo vegetable oils act as conditioning agents.

Recently lanolin and its derivates are being used as finishing agents
although they are known to cut foaming and for their scouring
action. Isopropyl myristate and butyl palmitate are particularly
known and diethanoloxide of fatty acids are also used as finishing
agents. Polyglycol stearate and glyceryl stearate improve
finishing action. Carboxy methyl cellulose a synethtic "gum" in con-
trolled quantities and lauryl sarcosine are also much used finishing
agents.
SEQUESTERING AGENTS
The sequestering agents are added to shampoos for prevention

of precipitiation of insouluble calcium or magnesium salts in hard
- shampoos ' 263
water conditions and as well as for mat ion of thin film of lime soap
on hair when rinced with hard water.
tJpto a proportion of 1% ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid
(EDTA) prevents lime soap formation. The sequestering agents
work well when used insufficient quantities.
Tween 80 has been used for its cleansing action as soap and for
lime soap dispersion. Tetra sodium pyrophosphate, tripolyphosphate
and hexametaphosphate are a few others.
CONDITIONING AGENTS
Finishing and conditioning agents are closely connected. Humec-
tants are usually used as conditio!ers. They bring moisture to the
hair and reduce brittleness. Glycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol and
urea help to retain moisture and delay its evaporation. The carbo
waxes and their stearates provide slip and body to the hair and the
fatty acid amides slip and smoothness.
THICKENING AGENTS
Natural gums such as tragacanth gum, acacia and locust been gum
were replaced by synthetic gum such as hydroxy methyl cellulose,
methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose. But they too leave
an undesired deposit on the hair. The alginates and the carrageenates
too have had restricted use.
However polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone are more
widely used.
Diethanolamide, lactic acid or the glycol or glycol stearates are
commonly used without the fear of formation of a film on the hair.
FOAM BUILDERS
Diethanolamide of lauric acid and dodecyl benzene sulfonate are
good foam builders.
PRESERVATIVES
The following preservatives are preferred forpreservation of sham-
poos.
Formaldehyde, methyl, propyl or butyl hydroxy benzoate, the alkyl

anisoles, hydroxy guinoline, dihydroacetic acid salts and the alkyl
cresols.
ANTIBACTERIALS
Anti bacterials, for preventing bacterial skin diseases are generally
added in soap type shampoos with the addition of chlorinated phe-
nol like hexachlorphene or bithionol. Usually 2% of such a chemi-
cal is used.
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS
1. Foam and foam stability
2. Detergency and cleansing action
3. Surface and interfacial tensions
4. Wetting action
5. Effect in hard water
6. Conditioning action
7. Luster and softness of hair
8. Relative effectiveness
9. Irritation to eyes
10. Fragrance
II. pH
12. Soap or synthetic detergent content
13. Free salt and ash content
14. 'Viscosity
15. Cost and selling price
PH OF SHAMPOO
As has been pointed out by Harris, it may be difficult to obtain
accurate pH reading, even with electrodes. The electrodes must
be washed clean, and be free from residual traces of alkali or acid
to ensure accurate readings. In any event, it is possible to prepare
a shampoo at almost any pH, but there is no assurance that the pH
will not drift on standing. Certainly there is no evidence that any
specific range of pH gives the best shampoo. Soaps in general are
Shampoos • 265
more effective at a pH of 9.0 to 10.0, and synthetics may be effec-
tive at pH of 60 to 9.0. It is probably true that the higher the pH,
the lower the cost per shampoo. Shampoo adjusted to the isoelectic
point of hair, viz., between 4.0 and 5.0 will cause better manageability.
ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
There has also been a great deal of interest in a dandruff prevent-
ing shampoo. (Abott Laboratories has placed on the market a thera-
peutic shampoo which was developed based on selenium sulfide).
This product, Selson, which is sold only on medical prescription, has
been enjoying growing acceptance. It is said to relieve severe
itching and dandruff. The following formulas are typical examples
of shampoos containing the selenium and a quaternary antiseptic.
However, there are undesirable side effects like graying and loss of
hair.
Formulas for Anti Dandruff Shampoos
l'ween 80 4% -
Cetyl benzyl di methyl ammonium bromide 12 -
Perfume q.s 0.5%
Water 84 q.s tOO
Arlacel SO - 13
Glyceryt morioricinolcate -
Bentonite - 4
Selenium sulfide-bentonite, 1:1 - 5
Citric acid - 0.4
Monosodium phosphate - 2
ALL SYNTHETIC DETERGENT SHAMPOO BAR
Some recent formulations of a solid detergent shampoo bar:

Formula 1
Sodium lauryl sullate(90% active) 50.00%
Ethoxylated alkylphenol 23.00
Mb ' t&tdbook of COtheiiè
?Aorioethartolamide of stearic acid 23.00

Perfi.ime ±00
bye (D&C Green No.5; 0.4% solUtion) 1.00
Polymer JR - iöo (Union Carbide) 1.00
FBFItiUII 2
Sodium iattij'i sulfate (90% active) 34.b%
Sodium dodecyI b&n±ene sulfohate 21.0
E'thin S'lated álkylphebOl 21.0
MtSid&haholaihide Of steaiic acid 2 tb
Pthuthe 1.6
bye (b & C Grééh No.5; 0.4% solution) 1.4
oItIiuia
MdeihahOlaiiiine kuryl ether sulfate 12% or parts
T`riefhahbIAffiiAe W-acyl sarcosinate IS
Alkyl diffiethylammonium acetate 3.0
I)ik6rilAry t*iktisnhiér O1'Vinyl iyiit1idone
blaik.4 t6*er *mlnbálkyl actyWe 1125
lbo
011i
sS %iliiOh tah be it Iiji of a eka wpe

Cthy Aitikwot %M 6 tI1I,at, gel bt*efdsM. 11*
04 cAll rahge Stt&5 ptetet-
ARY .S k618.
VJIME OIF 14WEV a UJIMMAW49 AttENt
The Iblilith ctMitai% * cokfvehhtwhil &e4gth% and honey. O-

tieS iitgtdtens -are aoath stabilizer, a viscosity adjüstingeht.
dvakivé. Thebdn4'isAeposited cki ih6haitby
i1Uic*i oThe skian$da duling se and gives the hair hillness aM
iaSi*aiWs tle 'áve and acts s a lusieling agent for %air.
Shampoos • 267
Formula 4
% by weight
Fatty alcohol sulphate (detergent) 40.0
Honey lao
Coca-fatty acid —diethanolamide (foam booster) 3.0
Viscosity adjusting means (NaCI) 3.0
Methyl & Propyl paraben (preservatives) 0.1
Perfume 1.0
Water 42.9
Shampoo composition of basic pH

Amphotetic detergent (Tegobetaine C) 50.0 parts
Nonionic amine oxide detergent 4.0
Chamomile extract (German 25%) 3.0
Urea 2.0
Triethanolamine (85%) 1.0
Nonionic emulsifier (Tween 20) 1.5
Perfume 0.3
Water to make 100 parts total
The above shampoo has a pH of about 8.3. The mixture showed
no apparent change in appearance or performance after storage of
40 days at temperatures ranging from 3 - Rt-40°c
The addition of 2 parts of polyethylene glycol (6000) distearate,
results in slight increase in conditioning effect.
Shampoo Composltionof. Acidic :pH

Amphoteric detergent 50.0 parts
Nonionic amine oxide detergent 4.0
Chamomilccxtract (German 25%) 3.0
Urea 2.0
Nonionic emulsifier (Tween 20) I-S
Perfume 0.3
Water to make 100 parts total
This resultant shampoo composition has pH value of about 5.75-
Further pH adjustments may be made with small amount of an
organic acid, like citric acid.
Triethanotamine Shampoo
Lauric acid 7.5
Alginic acid 3.0
Triethanolamine oleate 7.5
Coconut fatty acid chloride condensation product
of collagen protein hydrolysate (Maypon 4Cr) 11.5
Sorbitol 70% 10.0
Sugar 0.5
Preservatives 0.21
Seq uestrant 2.0
Fragrance as needed
Water cis to IOU
BEER SHAMPOO
Beer Concentrate
This is derived from a by-product of beer fraction produced in the
conventional beer manufacturing procedure. The top layer clear
beer is decanted and sent for bottling (after fermentation and addi-
tion of tannins). The bottom liquid sludge layer, often discarded in
the past, is subject to seperation procedure whereby a liquid layer
and a solid layer are produced. The liquid layer is further separated
from the solid layer and then concentrated by evaporation of the
liquid to produce a beer concentrate.
Beer Shampoo
Water 71.92%
Methyl paraben 0.25
Propyl paraben 0.05
Sodium lauryl sulphate, 60% (Standapol CS) 3,00
Shampoos • 269
Sodium polyoxyeLhylene (I)
laury] ether sulfate 0.10
Disodiuni EUTA, dihydrate 0.05
Citric acid anhydrous 0.18
Methyl diethyl polyoxypropylene (8)
Ammonium chloride WE
Preserved hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose
mucilage (3.5%) 5,00
Laurie myristic (70: 30) diethanolamide 5.00
Perfume 0.30
Beer concentrate, 50% 12,00
Formaldehyde solution, 37% 0.15
Conditioning Shampoo
A Ammonium lauryl sulfate 22,5%
Cocoamidopropyl betaine S
Lauramide DEA 2
Panthenol 0.!
Perfume 0.!
B Water 69.9
Crotein BTA 0.!
Methylparabcn 0.1
Formaldehyde USP 0.!
FD&C Blue No. 1,1% 0.1
Heat A to 50°C to dissolve lauramide. Add B.
Baby Shampoo
Tearless surfactant 48.0%
Na laureth - 2 surfactant 2.0
Propylent glycol 0.1
Water 48.0
Lauramide IDEA 2.0
Formaldehyde USP 0.1
100.2
Mix in the order shown. Heat to 50°C to dissolve lauramide. pH

should be 7.0.
Sodium lauryl ether (3.0) sulfate 70% 6.0%
Cocamidopropyl betaine 30% 12.0
Polyoxyethylene (80) sorbitan monolaurate 6.0
Polyethylene glycol distearate 1.5
Water 74.5
Perfume, preservative, dye, etc. 4.8.
Mix all the ingredients together by constant stirrings.

14
Bath Preparations
I4AtEsTht Wufli'O € *)f Bath preparation?
WA .goS bath prepatatiofi is one that more or less Mills the
followliig hntctiohs
1. lb make the ustr feel Sktshed.
2. lb help to soften hard water.
. To thake the bath a pleasant and fragrant one, by means of
peIlkm%e and colour.
4^ ibclean the b ody by removing dfld odour and impazt-
ing a pteasitg fragrance to it.
& To prevent a tint from tonnittg atomd the bath tub.
the bath preai%ttons ton skdetad in this chapter are
1 .. SaThMts
t. MhMls
•.. Thibb*e baTh
4. W po.Mets.
So 4tho is vet)' commonly used bath .preparation, is not
rbe4 onthdexe4hett because it is hot itgar&4 as atmcostnetic
We is eW&sttfronthM of the6rbptfliofl.
BATH SALTS
There are basically two types of bath salts: one which gives per-
fume and colour to the bath and the other which helps soften hard
water and make cleansing easier apart from possessing the two
qualities of the former.
The first type is based on rock salt crystals, which are coloured
and perfumed. This salt is used because of its inert nature and is
coloured (permitted) and perfumed rather easily. It does not soften
water or help in cleansing either and the crystals are slow in dis-
solving in the water. Epsom or Glaubers salts may also be used in
such preparations.
METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
The methods of manufacture is simple. The salt crystals of the

desired size, a solution of the perfume oil (about 0.5— 1 %), alcohol
and the colour are all put in a ribbon powder mixer and mixed and
transferred into trays to allow the alcohol to evaporate. The dry
product is ready for packing.
The second type used to soften water is formulated around one
of the sodium salts either sodium phosphate or sodium sesquicar-
bonate. Trisodium phosphate is commonly used. However, due to
its high alkalinity it is generally used in conjunction with sodium
sesquicarbonate or borax to buffer it. The utility of the preparation
lies in its ability to somewhat soften hard water and provide at the
same time cleansing action. Further, it reduces the surface tension
of water thereby allowing wetting of skin.
It has a few disadvantages as well. Its high alkalinity may be of
concern to people with sensitive skin. The other disadvantages occur
in the manufacturing process. The perfume oil as well as colour
need careful selection to prevent any possible reaction with the
strong alkali on standing. The following formulas described are a
few preparations of the second type.
Bath Preparations • 273
Formulas
Trisodium phosphate 50 to 49% 50 to 49% -
Sodium sesquicarbonate 49.5 to 49 - 80 to 90%
Rock salt or sodium chloride - 49.5 to 49 -
Borax, powdered - - 18(08
Perfume 0.5 to 2 0.5 to 2 2
Colour q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
The same methods described for the rock salt crystals, can be used
except for first mixing uniformly two or more dry ingredients be-
fore the perfume and colour are added; otherwise the finished prod-
uct might not be uniform in appearance.
Other phosphates suggested as substitutes for trisodium phos-
phate and would serve as better water softening as well as seques-
tering agents are sodium hexametaphosphate, tetra sodium pyro-
phosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate and others; only here the dis-
advantage being their high cost.
Effervescent bath salts are categorized as fancy products rather
than cosmetic. They are prepared with sodium carbonate and a
crystalline acid. Citric and tartaric being the most commonly used.
The carbonate and the acid are mixed and perfumed, coloured welled
with alcohol and granulated by passing through a screen of a suit-
able mesh. The wet granules are then put in trays and the trays into
a steam oven, so as to dry them with a small quantity of live steam.
This results in a reaction on the surface with the formation of a
neutral salt that acts as a protective coating against moisture in the
air. Isopropyl alcohol of 99% strength is used for granulating be-
cause of its low water content and alcohol soluble gum binders but
only in very small quantities.
274 • Toxibook of Cosmeths
The granules are ready for packing either as they are or in the
form of one-bath tablets.
Phosphates can be included in the formula but one has to bear in
mind the fact that large quantities of it would weaken the efferves-
cence. Powdered detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate can be added
but would put the preparation into a different category of bath prepa-
rations namely bubble bath preparations.
This is a formula of an effervescent bath preparation.
Formula 4
Sodium bicarbonate 45.0%
Tartaric acid 37.5
Sodium hexametaphosphase 10.0
Carboxymethyl cellulose 2.0
Perfume 0,5
Procedure
Combine the dry ingredients in powdered form and mix until uni-
form. Dissolve the perfume in enough isopropyl alcohol to moisten
the batch and add to the granulate and sieve through screen, and
dry. The finished product is packed in airtight containers or pressed
into tablets, preferably about 1 1/4 in. in diameter and ¼ in. thick,
which are placed in the airtight containers.
BATH OILS
Bath oils too like bath salts are classified into two main types: one
the oily type and the other either soluble or emulsifiable with water.
The first type is perhaps less popular. The product revolves around
say, castor oil, alcohol for viscosity adjustments, perfume oil (about
3%) and an oil soluble colour. A small quantity of this oil is poured
into the tub. The perfume oil is absorbed by the water and the other
oil floats on the water surface as a thin film. This film is "absorbed"
on the body while bathing.
Other oils can be used but present difficulty in colouring and

perfuming. The one big advantage with castor oil being its easy
miscibility in alcohol to give desired viscosity.
Synthetic oils like isopropyl myristate orplamitate, butyl stearate
and others easily perfumed and coloured are suggested alterna-
tives. Moreover, they are free from fatty odour and do not easily
become rancid.
The percentage of alcohol content is directly related to the vis-
cosity desired. These products do not possess detergent water soft-
ening or cleansing properties. The two formulas below typify such
preparations.
Formula 5
Castor oil 30 to 80%

Ethyl alcohol 60 to 10
Perfume 10
Colour q.s
Formula 6
Isopropyl myristate 90 to 95%

Perfume 5 to 10
Colour q.s
Since isopropyl myristate or any other fatty acid easter may not
absorb all perfume oil, alcohol or any other solvent may be used to
obtain a clear solution.
Bath oil with detergent and water softening properties is a popu-
lar choice. It was previously made with 50 % sulfated oil (castor or
soya) with suitable dosage of perfume and colour.
Bath oils made more recently are based on synthetic nonfoaming
detergents. Sometimes Water is used as diluents to reduce the cost.
A perfume-solubilizing agent is used for a clear product.
The manufacture of this type of bath oils is easy. The sulfated oil or
the detergent is placed in a tank. The perfume and the solubilizing
agent, if required, as a mixture is added to the oil and thoroughly

stirred. Colour is added. The colour should be tested for compatibil-
ity or in other words it should not react with the product. The selec-
tion of the sulfated oil is done in such a manner wherein it accepts
the addition of alcohol and water. Some sulfated castor oils and
some sulfated soyaben oils take 10-20% perfume oil without a
solubilizer and remain clear.
Here are some formulas based on sulfated castor oil
Formula
7 8
Castor oil, sulfated 97% 50%
Ethyl alcohol - 10 to
Solubilizer - 7
Perfume 3 3
Colour q.s q.s
Water - 30 to 40
A bath oil based on a sulfated detergent and non foaming type is
shown in the formula below.
Formula 9
Sulfated detergent 30 to 40%

Water ., 60 to 50
Solubilizer 7
Perfume oil 3
Colour q.s
The solubilizing agent selected here has to be carefully adjusted
considering the perfume oil used as well as the solubilizing effect of
the detergent.
BUBBLE BATH
Bubble bath are easily the most popular among the bath prepara-
tions.
They are available in different physical forms: powder, liquid,

tablets, capsules, crystal and "soap cakes".
A good bubble bath should cater to the following requirements.
1. Should bubble easily without exersion of excessive water

pressure.
2. Foam to be stable in hand and soft water as well as in the
presence of soap.
3. It should prevent formation of a ring around the bathtub.
4. The recommended dilution in the tub should not irritate the
skin or mucuous membranes.
5. It should contain ingredients that are low in cost to enable
reasonable pricing of product in attractive packaging.
One would assume that only synthetic detergents are useful in
the formulation of bubble baths, however the use of non detergent
surface active agents, emulsifiers and sequestering agents is not
uncommon.
Water-soluble gums, natural as well as synthetic, are also used
for one very important property they possess; preventing dispersed
soil form redepositing on the body by holding the soil particles in
suspension. Not all of the good foaming detergents have this ca-
pacity. The gums if well formulated will also provided desired thick-
ness to the liquid bubble bath.
Powdered bubble bath preparations contain non-hygroscopic
detergents, foaming agents, and water softeners. Many of the alkyl
aryl sulfates and sulfated fatty alcohols can be used for such a
preparation. However, it must be seen that they do not cake in high
humidity or become damp when used in combination with another
material even at relatively low humidities although they may be
excellent agents themselves.
Sodium chloride may be used as a diluent to keep the finished
products free flowing especially when stored in Large containers.
Sodium polyphosphate or the amide of an alkyl phospate is used in
place of sodium chloride when the product is more concentrated
and used in smaller quantities.
Formulas 10 and II are some examples of bubble bath prepara-
tions with sodium chloride and 12 with substitute for sodium chlo-
ride as already discussed.
Formulas for Bubble Bath
10 11 12
Sodium lauryl sulfate 30% - -
Sodium bury! sulfoacetate - 20% 60%
Sodium haxametaphosphate 5 - -
Sodium carboxymeLhyl cellulose, low visc 2 - -
Sodium chloride, fine granular 60 47 -
Alkyl benzene sodium sulfonate - 30 -
Sodium tripolyphosphate - - 38
Perfume 3 3 2
Procedure
Mix the dry ingredients until uniform, then add the perfume, and
mix again until unifopnly distributed. If difficulty is experienced with
nonuniformity of odour, the perfume should first be dissolved in a
little alcohol.
Generally the powdered bubble bath preparations are put in
tablet form (rather easily at low humidity). A good bubble bath
soap cake is obtained by way of compression of sodium lauryl
sulfoacetate alone or in a mixture with boric acid, talc, starch and
other materials.
But the liquid bubble bath is the most popular product. Earlier it
was based on liquid soap such as potash and triethanolamine soaps
of coconut oil, phosphate and other sequestering agents like the
sodium phosphate, sodium hexametaphosphate, tetra sodium pyro-
phosphate, and sodium tripolyphosphate were added to keep in-
soluble soaps from anti foaming activity in the bath. The tetrasodium
salt of ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid is excellent in preventing
the killing of foam by magnesium and calcium ions.
More modern bubble baths are based on synthetic surfactants
which give good foam whether they are good detergents or not.
Because by adding a good detergent both the qualities can be ob-
tained. A majority of the good foamers also posses good detergent
activity resulting in a good liquid bubble bath.
The ingredients of a bubble bath need to be selected in such a
way that they remain as clear solutions over a wide range of tem-
perature.
Formulas 13 to 18 provide excellent bubble bath preparations.
Formulas for Bubble Baths
13 14 IS 16 17 IS
Fatty acid amine condensate 40% 30% 20% -
Alkyl sulfonate - 15 - - - -
Sodium lauryl sulfate - - 20 30% - -
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate
Alkyl aryl polyethyl ether ————-07%
Diethyl ester of sodium succinic acid ————-06
Ethyl alcohol 10
Water 57 52 57 67 67 q.s 100
Perfume 03 03 03 03 03 03
BATH POWDERS
Bath powders of the past were based on corn and rice starch and
boric acid. But both powders of the present constitute mainly any
where between 60% - 90% of talc. Many other ingredients in smaller
quantities are used of give it the desired properties.
For instance these are:
Ingredients Purpose
Chalk for bulk and density
Zinc oxide for bulk and density
Magnesium carbonate 5% to adsorb perfume and hold it
Kaolin to help powder to hold on to the body
Titanium dioxide 1-2% to give some opacity to talc
Zinc slearate to give desired slip to the product
Colour
Normally earth oxide colours are used. For example a mixture of
cosmetic grade iron oxide (light pink color) and light tanochre will
produce a flesh coloured tint. This is added as an extender after all
other ingredients are uniformly mixed. The extender should consist
of 25% of dry colour and 75% talc uniformly mixed and then
micropulverized.
Formulas for Bath Powders
19 20 21 22
Talc 80% 70% 90% 60%
Magnesium carbonate 05 05 04 05
Kaolin 05 07 - -
Titanium dioxide 02 - - 02
Zinc stearate 07 04 05 10
Zinc oxide - 03 - 12
Chalk, heavy - ID - 10
Perfume 01 01 01 0]
Colour and extender q.s q.s q.s q.s
Procedure
Place the dry ingredients, except the magnesium carbonate in a

powder mixer and mix until uniform. If a perfume fixative is to be
added to counteract the earthy odour, it is incorporated at this point
in the form of 1% alcoholic solution. Mix the alcoholic solutions
into the dry ingredients, until uniformly distributed. Mix the magne-
sium carbonate and the perfume in a separate container and sift
into the batch while mixing. If colour is desired, add the extenders
at this time and mix the batch until the colour is uniformly distrib-
uted. Then run the batch through a micropulvcrizer or through a
bolting screen, and it is ready to be packaged. The bath powder
should be packaged in a large diameter, round or square, flat box,
so that a large puff can be enclosed.
15
Rouge
but an important cosmetic from a lady's point of

OUGE IS SMALL
Rview. Its purpose is to stimulate the rosy freshness of the young
and healthy skin.
Table 1. Physical Forms of Modem Rouge
Form Composition Advantages Disadvantages
Liquid
Suspension Pigment suspen- Cheap Lacks cosmetic
ded in water elegance; may
alcohol glycerol require shaking
and other liquids before use
Emulsion Pigments Relatively cheap Emulsion may
suspended in a blends easily separate; limited
fluid emulsion choice of suitable
pigments
Cream
Anhydrous cream Pigmented Stable, easy May be greasy, may
ointment application exude oil on stand-
ing and during chan-
ges of temperature
Water-containing Pigmented cream Pleasing Limited shelf life
appearance, easy through loss of
blending water
Solid
Waxes and oils Similar to lipstick Stable, easy to Too much like
apply lipstick
Dry compact Pigmented powder Long-tasting, Dusty, may crack
compressed with applies with and crumble
the help of a puff matte finish
binder
LIQUID ROUGE
Suspension Type
The dye solution one can say was the precursor of rouge. But the
tendency of dye solution to stain the skin and the difficulty in appli-
cation lead the chemist to focus on pigmented solutions as simple
means of applying a touch of red to the cheek. Such suspensions in
their simplest forms settle rather quickly and need a thorough shak-
ing before use. In order to retard this settling of the pigments and
inert solids and to disperse, various suspending agents such as car-
boxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol
have been selected to act as colloids around the solid particles.
Another alternative to prevent the inert and white particles from
settling is to have a voluminous precipitate floating in the water
phase. This can be achieved by grinding zinc stearate into the wa-
ter phase to yield a product, which gives the appearance of a lotion
and provides a matte finish on application.
A widely followed way of doing this is by adding glyceryl or
propylene glycol monostearates at high temperatures to the aque-
ous pigment suspension. The monostearate being dispersible in hot
water, innumerable microscopic stearates start cooling down which
in turn act as cushions to the heavier pigment particles.
Formulas 1-3 represent rouge solutions and formulas 4-6 de-
scribe rouge suspensions.
Formulas for Liquid Rouge
Carmine NF 2.0% - -
Glycerol 5.0 - -
Water 889 89.4% -
D&C Red no.28 4 0.5 6%
Rouge • 283
Carbowax 400 - 10.0 6.0

Alcohol-soluble dye - - 4.0
Castor oil - - 10.0
Ethyl alcohol - - 74.0
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate 0.1 0.1 -
Perfume q.s q.s q.s
4 5 6
Propylene glycol 3.0% - -
Polyvinyl alcohol 2%solri 2.5 - --
Sorbitol hexaacetatc,2% soln 2.5 - -
Titanium dioxide 2.0 - -
Chalk 4,8 - -
Zinc stearate 2.4 17.0% -
Colour 10 6.0 6.0%

Water 74.7 75.5 76.9
Zinc oxide 5.0 - -
Glycerol - 1.0 4.0
IDehydroacetic acid - 0.5 -
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate 0.1 - 0,1
Diethylene glycol monostcarate - - 9.0
Spermaceti - - 3.0
Sodium lauryl sulfate - - 1.0
Perfume q.s q.s q.s
Emulsion Type
The emulsion type rouge provides a blend of easy application and

desirable appearance in the bottle. The only hitch being require-
ment of an acceptable shelf life for which careful formulation is
necessary. The choice of colours and toners is restricted due to the
alkaline nature of the emulsion. Formula 8 is one such example.
The consistency of the lotion can be varied by varying the soap
content or by adding quince seed extract, bentonite, carboxymethyl
cellulose, or other thickening agents.
Formula 8
Mineral oil 39.4%

Oleic acid 7,3
Dry ingredients
Zinc stearate 0.42
Pigment 0,42
Aluminium hydroxide 0.36
Water 47.7
Triethanolamine 3.7
Perfume q.s
Procedure
Heat the mineral oil and oleic acid to 60°C. Heat the water and
triethanolamine to 60°C. Pregrind the dry ingredients and either
roller-mill the latter into the oil phase, which is then converted into
the oil emulsion or add the water phase to the oil phase, and add the
preground dry ingredients to hot finished emulsion, stir while cool-
ing, and perfume at 45°C.
The use of nonionics as emulsifying agents allows larger choice
of colours but here careful balancing of ingredients is necessary to
insure a long shelf life. Form 9 is one such example.
Formula 9: Creamy Pearl Rouge

Part 1
Lanolin oil 2.2%
Bees wax 2.7
Sorbitan stearate 5.5
Lanolin alcohol 5.3
Glyceryl tribehenate 3.9
Rouge • 285
Paraffin 4.4
Propyl paraben 0.1
Part 2
Water, distilled 44,8
Polysorbate 60 2.6
Methyl paraben 0,2
Imidazolidinyt urea 0.2
Part 3
Mica (and) Titanium dioxide (and) Carmine 6.7
Mica (and) Iron oxides (and) Titanium dioxide 6.6
Mica (and) Titanium dioxide 6.6
Part 4
Fragrance 0.1
Procedure
Heat Part Ito 85°C. Heat Part 2 also to 85°C. Add premixed Part
3 to Part 2 with stirring. Add Part I with stirring and remove from
heat. Add Part 4 with stirring at 45°C.
Cream Rouge
Cream rouge enjoys preference over other forms of rouge because
of its ease of application, soft texture, perfect appearance, and sat-
isfactory blending with powder.
Anhydrous Creams
Them are two types of anhydrous rouge creams. One based on
mineral oil and waxes which is the older version and the newer one
which is based on lower alkyl fatty acid esters and carnauba wax
to harden it. They present good shelf life with acceptable cosmetic
properties. The first type is cheap but the key lies in the selection of
raw materials so that it remains stable at temperatures above 40°C.
The base materials used not only render easy application but also
insure heat stability. This type of rouge gives a greasy feeling un-
less sparingly used.
The second which is all oil-and-wax type is based upon the fact
that carnauba wax, in the presence of talc, chalk, kaolin, and pig-
ments stiffens isopropyl palmitate and other esters to the desired
consistency. The esters being oily liquids with low viscosity yield
very pleasing thin films on the skin. This mixture of carnauba wax
and the esters, which is stiff and solid when direct pressure is ap-
plied, becomes fluid when rubbed gently with a circular motion.
Moreover, a well-made mixture of this type of cream rouge can
withstand temperatures above 50°C.
However, both types of creams tend to exude oil in tiny droplets
when subjected to abrupt temperatures changes. This situation can
be averted with the addition of beeswax, ozokerite, or lanolin or
even a small amount of mineral oil. Infact any material acting as a
third solvent to reduce brittleness also reduces sweating of the rouge.
The stability feel of the anhydrous cream rouges has a lot to do
with pouring temperatures and dooling rates. Flaming improves the
appearance of the surface, which is done after the cream has cooled
down and set. If this is not observed the pigment settles slightly
leaving a mottled surface deficient in pigment.
Cream rouges need to be perfumed with great care since they
tend to develop an odd odour and since they are used sparingly the
perfume must be retained for a long period.
Some examples of anhydrous cream rouge formulas are given
below.
Formula 10
Petrolatum 76%
Mineral oil 8
Lanolin 4
Zinc oxide S
Pigments 7
Perfume q.s
Rouge • 287
Formula 11
Carnauba 6%
Ozokerite to
Mineral oil 24
Isopropyl palmitate 27
Talc 10
Titanium dioxide 20
Colour 3
Perfume q.s.
EMULSIFIED CREAMS
One major draw back of anhydrous cream rouge is its greasiness.
To overcome this problem, cream rouges that are based on pig-
mented emulsions have been formulated. Almost all types of cream
can be adapted as rouge bases. A well formulated emulsified rouge
cream: (a) is easy for application, (b) has minimum drag (c) is
non-greasy (d) is cooling, (e) has a pleasant texture and presents
a subtle attraction to many women. A poorly formulated cream on
the other hand may have mottled effect, may feel spongy because
of occluded air, have a lard like appearance due to poor emulsifica-
tion or bad choice of ingredients. Insufficient or unsuitable humec-
tants may cause the cream to dry up and loose its customer appeal.
Some examples of emulsified cream rouge:
Formula 12 (Vanishing Cream Type)
Stearic acid 20.0%

Cetyl alcohol 2.0
Glycerol 10.0
Potassium hydroxide 1.0
Water 58.9
Pigment 8.0
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Heat the stearic acid and cetyl alcohol to 70°C. Heat the glycerol,
potassium hydroxide, and water to 70°C. Add the aqueous phase to
the oil phase. Continue to stir, while cooling add perfume at 45°C.
Then remove a small amount of the cream, add the pigment, and
mix it in, or use a loose-ointment mill and stir it back into the bulk of
the cream.
Formula 13 (Cold Cream Type)

White beeswax 12.0%
Petrolatum 24,0
Spermaceti 8,0
Mineral oil 22.0
Borax 0.8
Water 30.0
Pigment 3.1
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
Follow same directions as for Formula 12, except that the oil phase
consists of beeswax, petrolatum, spermaceti, and mineral oil, water
phase consists of borax and water.
Formula 14 (Neutral Cream Type)

Arlacel 83 4.0%
Lanolin 4.0
Mineral oil 14.0
Petrolatum 28.0
Sorbitol syrup 4.9
Water 35.0
Pigment 10.0
Perfume q.s.
Rouge • 289
Procedure
Follow the same directions as for Formula 12, except that oil phase
consists of Arlacel 83, lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum; water
phase consists of sorbitol syrup and water.
Formula 15
Glyceryl monostearate (self-emulsifying) 11.9%
Spermaceti 4.5
Glycerol 4.5
Water 71.0
Colour 8.0
Perfume q.s.
SOLID ROUGES
Solid Oil and Wax Rouges
The idea of having rouges in the form and composition similar to
lipsticks has been cropping up from time to time. Actually some
women do use their lipsticks as substitutes for rouges. Commer-
cially it has not been offered because of the confusion it may cre-
ate in the customer's mind.
As a matter of fact any lipstick of preferably creamy texture
and free of halogenated fluorescence which does not permit deli-
cate blending of rouge especially on an already creamed face would
be acceptable. A careless application of this form of rouge may
however result in the "apple cheek" variety.
A simple example of an oil and wax rouge base is given below.
Formula 16
Castor oil 77.4%
Candelilla wax 9.9
Carnauba wax 2.7
Colour 10.0
Perfume q.s.
Another tested solid oil and wax rouge formulation using isopro-
pyl esters and camauba wax and sufficient colour is given below.
Formula 17
Isopropyl myristale 45.0%

Mineral oil 22.5
Carnauba wax 8,8
Lanolin 4.0
Colour 19.7
Perfume q.s.
COMPACT ROUGES
Compact rouge is the most popular form of rouge and is essentially
a pigmented powder compressed to a firm cake with the help of a
binder. However, it not only requires a sound technical know how
but also specialized equipment.
The earlier version of rouge cake was made by pouring wet
powder containing gypsum into moulds where the rouge set like
plaster of Paris. They were hard and gritty compared to the mod-
em cakes. These cakes, soft and smooth and can be produced
cheaply in large quantities.
A good dry compact rouge exhibits the following characteris-
tics.
I. Smooth texture.
2. Perfect distribution of colour.
3. Good covering power.
4. Very small particle size.
5. Perfect blending.
6. Ease of application.
7. Good adhesion.
8. Ease of removal without trace or residue.
In addition the cake should not flake, crumble, crack, or be too
hard.
Rouge • 291
Some common defects observed in compact rouges:

1. Being powdery, 'dusty and irritating.
2. Hard and not readily blended.
3. To glaze when rubbed with a puff.
The raw materials used in regular base face powder are same,
but differ in ratio as far as compounded compact rouge is con-
cerned.
A study of the commonly used raw materials for the manufac-
ture for compressed rouge powder is done here below.
Talc
Should possess slip without greasiness; it should be free of "Spar-
klers", have uniform small particle size. It is the main ingredient for
an easy application. If the content in rouge is too high it gives a thin
glassy appearance. The talc here may not be pure white since the
product is strongly pigmented.
Kaolin
Kaolin is soft and opaque on application. The colloidally refined
form of kaolin can be used for bulking and to adjust the overall
fluffiness of the composition. It has bonding properties because of
its capacity to absorb and retain certain amount of moisture. How-
ever, when used in a high percentage, it gives spots and streaks due
to its hygroscopicity. Kaolin causes many perfumes to deteriorate
and for this reason it has to be used cautiously.
Chalk
This material has no major role in the formulation of compact rouge
except in small quantities as a perfume carrier. It has a tendency to
make the compact brittle.
Magnesium Carbonate
It is added as a bulking agent and as a carrier of perfume. It has
very little covering power and too much of it makes the compact
fragile.
Zinc Oxide
Its usual concentration varies from 5-30% depending on the con-

centration of other materials. Its white pigment gives opacity with-
out blue undertones. Brightens red tones and enhances adhesion
of rouge to skin. But it reduces the strength of the compact.
Titanium Dioxide
It has 4-5 times more hiding power than zinc oxide. It gives lively
shades however, with blue undertone.
Metal Stearates
Zinc, magnesium and aluminum stearates are almost essential fora

well-compounded rouge and are used in concentrations between 3-
10%. They are useful in providing adhesion to skin, smoothness to
the cake and act as binders in conjunction with gum binders. How-
ever, colour streaking may occur when used in high concentrations.
Starch
Dry starch is useful in small quantities. When used in conjunctiop

with aqueous binders it may cause swelling, cracking and breaking
of rouge cake. It can however be used in the binding solution which
needs to be preserved.
Pigments
Water and oil soluble dyes are usually avoided. Colour lakes, to-
gether with organic toners, reduced toners and to a lesser extent
inorganic oxides, are the principle pigments used and they also pro-
vide a wide range in shade and brilliance.
Rouge • 293
Perfume
A discreet odour is recommended for compact rouge bearing in

mind dry rouge, which is sparingly used, and it may last for years.
Because of its dense compact form perfume is released very slowly.
Preservatives
A gum binder being used, it is advisable to incorporate a preserva-

tive.
Binder
Actually a successful compact rouge hinges heavily on the selec-

tion of the binder. Several binder combinations have been proposed
and used. Some of used ones are given hereunder.
Water soluble binder.
Water repellent binder.
Emulsion binder.
Dry binder.
Each one has advantages and disadvantages and is necessary to
make an individual study to be able to put them to best use.
Water Soluble Binder
This type of binder is basically a gum solution and both natural and
synthetic gums are employed. Gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum
karaya, quince seed and Irish moss extracts are all natural ingredi-
ents. A combination of gum tragacanth and quince seed has been
used. The use of gum arabic needs caution because it may give the
cake a very hard consistency. Being natural products, it is difficult
to obtain material that is pure, uniform and low in bacteria and
mould count, although standardized grades are commercially avail-
able.
As a result of these problems, manufacturers resorted to syn-
thetic gums like methyl cellulose, carboxy methyl cellulose, polyvi-
nyl pyrrolidone and others. The concentrations of gum used varies

from 0.1% to 3%. Starch solution is used by some as a binder as
well.
Water Repellent Binder
Because compact rouges are subject to spotting by water, water

repellent binder came into the picture. These binders can be liquids,
semi-solids, or solids, which are incorporated into the rouge in the
molten state. The following materials either alone or in combination
can be used: Mineral oil, petrolatum, fatty acid esters, lanolin, and
lanolin derivatives in concentrations varying from 0.2%-2%. This
quantity of fatty material is insufficient to form a solid cake and
requires about 10% of water, which is mixed with the powder be-
fore pressing. A small quantity of wetting agent ensures a uniform
water-powder mixture.
Emulsion Binder
The difficulty in uniform distribution of small quantities of oil or

waxes into preground rouge powder led to the choice of an emul-
sion binder. A thin emulsion has bulk as well as water phase which
make pressing easy. Moreover, an emulsion incorporated into a
powder prevents moisture loss and makes the manufacturing pro-
cedure smoother. Uniform distribution of oil phase in the powder
prevents glazing and lumps which are likely to occur when the oils
alone are added to the powder.
The use of soaps as emulsifying agents could cause skin irrita-
tion although the adhesion of the powder is good. Sorbitol deriva-
tives however, give acceptable emulsion and nonirritating binders.
Dry Binder -
Dry binders like metallic stearates, in addition to pasty and liquid

binders, provide alternative choice as binding agents for the rouge
powder. However, the compression has to be increased for obtain-
ing rouge compacts. Such a compact exhibits smooth texture and
Rouge • 295
good adhesion to the skin but has shown a tendency to irritate skin
sensitive to the alkalinity of some metal stearates.
THE MANUFACTURE OF DRY ROUGE

The basic steps involved in the manufacture of dry rouge are grind-
ing, matching of shades, addition of binder, moulding and pressing.
There are several ways of performing these operations and the
choice of method depends upon the prevailing conditions and the
particular requirements.
Grinding
The main purpose of various manufacturing procedures is distribu-
tion of colours. The older process called the French or Continental
process is slow and elaborate. It yields excellent rouges with a
minimum of equipment. In this method , the lakes, toners and the
other pigments are first premixed in spiral ribbon or pony mixers.
Then it is converted into a dough like paste by adding water or the
binder solution. It is then placed in shallow trays either with or
without previous granulation, for drying in ovens. The resultant hard,
dry cakes are reground in hammer or ball mills. If this cycle of
wetting, drying and grinding is repeated, a soft and brilliant rouge is
obtained.
In the American process, colours are distributed by powerful
grinding equipment which includes hammer mills with air classifi-
ers, cyclone mills or attrition mills (refer to face powders chapter).
Another efficient method is provided by edge runner mills which
function on a principle similar to that of a pestle and a mortar. These
mills mix and grind simultaneously. However, it is necessary to lighten
the wheels to avoid squeezingthe soft stearates into lumps which
are difficult to disperse.
It is advisable to keep a check on the manufacturing procedure
from time to time because grinding equipment wears and becomes
less efficient; mills of the same type but of different capacities
need not necessarily show same efficiency and their characteris-
tics have to-be known. The addition of small quantities of oil or
water in the powder while grinding helps .in better distribution of

colours. Titanium dioxide being neutral gives more stable colour
shades than the alkaline zinc oxide.
Shade Matching
For close matching, small amounts of dry powder have to be moist-
ened with water or binder, ground through a laboratory mill, moul-
ded, pressed and dried. This sample rouge is then compared with
the master shade. Necessary adjustments have to be made on the
dry powder. Further, it is advisable to prepare several concentra-
tion of blends to have freedom of adjustments.
Addition of Binder
It is important that the binder is evenly and completely distributed.
The binder is sprayed into the powder while it is being mixed. Rouge
powder being water repellent, and since most binders contain wa-
ter, it is customary to add a wetting agent to ensure uniform distri-
bution. Emulsion binder is preferred as it also acts as a wetting
agent and helps in the distribution of the finely divided oil phase.
Moulding
Moulding and pressing operations are involved in the manufacture
of tabletting type rouge. Normally before the compact rouge is
pressed into shallow pans, it has to be moulded. It is done either
manually or automatically either in single or multiple cavity moulds.
The most important aim of moulding is to fill each cavity with the
same amount of powder. However, it gives the compressed cake
only approximate uniformity since the weight depends on the con-
tent of air in the powder. Regulated devices are necessary for
moulding otherwise rouge compacts vary greatly in hardness and
ease in rub-off. The powder is (like a dome) usually moulded in
such a manner that a pronounced hump is created in the center,
which is dense and hard. If it is done with a level surface, the
centre of the pressed cake is soft.
Rouge • 297
Pressing
What the pressing operations should do theoretically is
1. Expel the air from the interstices between the powder par-
ticles.
2. Bring them into physical content with each other.
3. Weld the binder film between particles.
The die should leave a small and definite clearance between
itself and edge of the pan to allow passage to the expelled air.
Ideal pressing employs a fixed pressure cycle i.e., first com-
press gradually and continue till the optimum is reached; and disen-
gage slowly and smoothly after sustaining the pressure briefly at
the optimum. Foot-operated presses, air cylinders, and hydraulic
cylinders are all suitable.
Tabeletting machines mould and press automatically but are rather
expensive for the manufacture of rouge.
The_thin rubber dam can be slipped over the die in order to pre-
vent "lifting" of the compressed rouge. It does not work if rouge is
embossed. The die in this case has to be finely polished to avoid
"lifting".
It is preferable that the metal pans rest on resilient rubber cush-
ion while being pressed because they are never perfectly flat and
more over they should permanently be coated with tackly glue so
that there is good adhesion between rouge cake and the metal pan
even if the latter, somewhat bent during pressing springs back when
pressure is relieved.
The spring room in which the rouge is being moulded and pressed
should be air-conditioned for uniform temperature and relative hu-
midity. Further, it is advisable to maintain the correct moisture con-
tent of the powder during moulding and pressing..
After the formation of the moulds the rate of drying should be
uniformly slow to avoid a dry crust and an undesirable top cast.
An example of dry rouge powder is given below:
Formula 18
Talc 48
Kaolin 16
Chalk 4
Magnesium carbonate 4
Zinc stearaLe 4
Titanium dioxide 12
Colour 12
Perfume q.s.
Procedure
For directions, the reader is referred to preceding parts of the chapter,

under the heading "The manufacturing of dry rouge".
16
Depilatories
HE DESIRE FOR removal of undesired hair for improving personal
T appearance, hygiene has haunted men and women since an-
cient times. It is recorded that the primitives used mineral, veg-
etable or animal matter either in ointment or in paste form for the
removal of unwanted hair or to prevent its growth.
To quote a few of ancient products: I, burnt chaetopod boiled
with balanites oil, 2. Burnt leaf of lotus in oil, 3, shell of the tortoise
with the fat of the hippopotamus, the blood of oxen, asses, pigs,
hounds and goats, together with stibium and malachite.
The original classical depilatory contained natural arsenic trisul-
fide, quick lime and starch, and was made into a paste with water.
The term depilation is defined as the removal of human hair fiber,
through chemical degradation with inorganic sulfides and organic
thiols.
Recent fashions in women's apparel created a large demand for
depilators. Shaving is usually, a hi-weekly procedure, and the pro-
cess is made more convenient, by specially designed razors and
elegant shaving creams. However, this procedure is not very well
acceptable by women due to its disadvantages.
Next is electrolysis, which is not only costly but time consuming.
More recently epilatory waxes or other similar adhesive composi-
tions were introduced as depilatorycreams. This approach is much
more convenient and enjoys consumer acceptance.
EPILATORS
Epilants are hair pulling type in semisolid condition which are adhe-
sive to skin.
(A)Wax-Rosin compositions are designed for application in the
molten state to the hirsute area and allowed to solidify, so
that the hair becomes enmeshed in the plastic mass. After
keeping for 15-30 minutes removal of the waxy film from
the site uproots and removes the hair.
(B) Adhesive semisolid compositions which are permanently
stickly at room temperature and applied generally on a flex-
ible supporting material such as fabric. Removal of the
adhesive compositions by stripping removes the hair easily.
Rosin 69%
Bees wax 20
Burgundy pitch
Gum camphor
Oil of Bergamot
Oil of eucalyptus
Oil of skunk
The molten mass was poured into moulds to form sticks, which
were heated before being applied to the hairy area, on cooling the
solidified stick was removed quickly from the skin, thereby remov-
ing the embedded hair.
Later on this was improved and an attempt was made to even
restrict further growth of hair through improvised preparations.
After epilating by Rosin-wax mixture another mixture of lime-
water, hydrogen peroxide, and oil of turpentine, with colour and
perfume, was applied to the area in an attempt to restrict further
hair growth. Formulations were changed by including viscous plas-
ticizers like honey and non drying oils, such as mineral oil or olive oil
to make the composition: utilizablei.without preliminary heating.
Depilatories • 301
Replacement with glucose, molasses, or honey and with water in-
soluble fillers in a ratio of 2:1 respectively, was proposed in addition
to raw rubber in a volatile solvent.
The wax-rosin compositions were also supplied with a backing
material which formed a flexible mounting for the adhesive mix-
ture. Similarly adhesive compositions, containing zinc oxide, and
various ketones were patented in Western Countries. Encompass-
ing all the previous art, ready for application products were intro-
duced. For example a ready to use and instantly removable depila-
tory pad type for application to the body, was formulated. It com-
prised of a combination of a substantially impermeable base section
and a permanently coated stick mounted on the said base section.
Any hair, coming in contact with such a pad comes off easily from
the skin when removed without causing injury.
The advantage of such a system is that it can be handled/oper-
ated by even unskilled or trained persons. However, though it claims
no allergic reaction or discomfort it is not 100% true.
Later several brands of these mechanical hair-removing aids in
small cakes, canisters, kits, or tubes were available, but their popu-
larity has been largely superseded by the newer chemical depilators.
Rosin Based Epilatories
Formula 1'
Rosin . 42%
Beeswax 3%
Camauba wax 6%
Mineral oil 15%
Base q.s.
Formula 2
Rosin 50%
Beeswax 24%
Petrolatum 4
Benzocaine 2
Base q.s.
Formula 3
Rosin 64%
Bees wax 8
Carnauba wax 24
Lin seed oil 4
Formula 4
Rosin 58%
Bees wax 22
Ceresin to
Base q.s.
CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES
The removal of superfluous, undesirable hair was revolutionized by
developing chemical agents either in paste or in cream formulary.
and they became popular in the evolution of variety of formula-
tions.
An ideal depilatory formulation would possess the following quali-
ties.
1. Should transform human hair into a soft plastic mass, eas
ily removed by wiping or rinsing.
2. Should be non toxic systemically and non irritating to the
skin even in the long run.
3. Should be easily applicable, economical to use, and stable
in the tube orjar.
4. Should be cosmetically elegant, odourless, or pleasantly per-
fumed, white or natural in colour, non injurious to the skin,
stainless on cloth.
However, hypothetically it sounds satisfactory but practically it
is not foolproof. The reason being, the proteinaceous nature of skin
and hair which is akin, and the treatment of hair with chemicals will
equally affect the skin, which is undesirable.
Mechanism of Action
The chemical treatment of hair involves the rupture of hair, break-
down and reformation of sulfide linkage, which are responsible for
stability and flexibility of the hair fibre. But at the same time, it
should not be a complete breaking of all cross linking disulfide bonds,
in the permanent waving process. The various chemical agents as
alkali, metal sulfides, sulfites, cyanides, amines, mercaptans, and
certain metal salts. The s-s bond is affected with the increasing
osmotic pressure within the hair fibre and as a result of which it
swells, loses its tensile strength and generally deteriorates. A mass
ofjelly like consistency, which can be easily removed by wiping or
scraping, is the final stage of alkaline hydrolysis in the presence of
a reducing agent. Both the outer layer (cuticle) and the inner colour
bearing layer (cortex) are disintegrated.
FORMULATION WITH METALLIC SULFIDES

The early American patent literature on depilatories pertained to
tablet, powder, soap, or paste compositions containing barium, stron-
tium, and sodium sulfides or polysulfides.
In 1912 Stone disclosed a depilatory formulation containing cal-
cium hydroxide, sodium sulfide and calcium sulfide hydrate. In 1921
Donner altered the formulations, by reducing the odour, increasing
the stability and improving the cosmetic elegance, over the previ-
ous formulations be it a liquid, powder or lotion formula containing
sulfides. Subsequently a stable transparent jelly composition, which
was designed to give better visual control over the depilating pro-
cess was patented in 1936. A 15% lithium hydroxide solution was
saturated with hydrogen sulfide in the presence of an inert gas until
the solution contained 8.25% of it by weight. This solution was
added to a jelly base containing about 6% of tragacanth, karaya or
locust bean gum. The resultant clear jelly was applied and then
worn for half hour till complete depilation was indicated.
Another patent with methyl cellulose gel base reported good sta-
bility and rapid effectiveness containing sodium sulfide, calcium
chloride and calcium carbonate. A Japanese patent described the
combination of starch paste, and hydrophilic ointment in the prepa-

ration of a strontium sulfide cream depilatory.
Formula 5: Powder Depilatory

Barium sulfide 31.0%
Corn starch 50.5
Menthol 0.25
Perfume 0,25
Formula 6
Strontium sulfide 35.0%
Corn starch 35.0
Powdered soap 5.0
Zinc oxide 23.0
Benzocaine 0.2
Perfume 1.8
Mix with water at the time of application.
Formula 7: Depilatory Pastes

Part A
Sodium sulfide 4%
Glycerol
Kaolin 32%
Water 63
Part B
Barium sulfide 8%
Calcium carbonate 32%
Powdered soap 4
Glycerol 2
Water 54
Part C
Strontium sulfide 30%

Zinc Oxide 8%
Glycerol 8%
Methyl cellulose 2.5
Water 51.5
Part
Strontium sulfide 35%

Titanium dioxide 4
Glycerol 5
Menthol 2.5
Perfume 1.0
Water 52.5
Later on in France many patents were obtained on inventions
based on the aliphatic mercapto acids and salts thereof.
(Thioglycolic, Thiolactic and Thiocyanie). These patented corn-
jiounds were powders, creams, jellies or liquids and permitted the
use of a wide range of perfumery materials. Depilatories contain-
ing thioglycollic acid are commonly employed in media having a pH
range of 10-12.5. Later modifications were made to reduce the pH
to 8-10, in a suitable base containing anionic wetting agents and
also the addition of pro-oxidants like manganese, iron, and copper
salts helped in increasing the efficiency and safety of thioglycolate
depilatories.
Subsequently soluble xanthates eg. sodium ethyl or methyl xan-
thates had been proposed along with sodium dodecyl xanthate as
emulsifying agent and calcium thioglycolate booster in a cream base,
as an emulsifying agent.
Practical depilation could be achieved on the formulation of the
base, in which the alkaline thioglycolate is incorporated.
1. The paste, cream or lotion must be of proper consistency,
capable of being localized at the site of application, easily
spread and non drying.
2. It should hold moisture for 15 minutes after applications.
3. It should maintain "build up" around the hair shaft and cling
to the hairy area. (This could be achieved by adding suit-
able surface tension reducing agents compatible with alkali
and alkali earth metals either anionics like alkali metals fatty
alcohol sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and several non-ionics
of the polyoxy alkylene alcohol or either types, as suitable
wetting agents and provide satisfactory emulsifiers, for for-
mulations of lotions and creams which contain high con-
centrations of electrolytes. Thickening agents like traga-
canth, karaya, guar, and quince seed exracts polyvinyl al-
cohol, methyl or hydroxy ethyl cellulose can also help in
maintaining consistency and emolliency is achieved with
cetyl or stearyl alcohol.
Calcium thioglycolate tri hydrate 6.0%

Calcium carbonate light liSP 21.0
Calcium hydroxide liSP 1.5
Cetyl alcohol flakes NF 4.5
Sodium lauryl sulfate lISP 0.5
Sodium silicate solution 3.5
Perfume 0.5
Distilled water q.s.
Procedure
Mix 4.5 gms of sodium lauryl sulfate in 15 ml of hot water (65°C)

and make a solution. Add molten cetyl alcohol to this mixture while
hot and agitate while cooling to form and emulsion. Add previously
prepared emulsion to this slurry and agitate for 30 minutes at 40°C.
In another vessel make a suspension by mixing the calcium hydrox-
ide and calcium thioglycolate in 10 ml of distilled water containing
0.5 gm of sodium lauryl sulphate. Add this suspension to the previ-
ously prepared mixture of emulsion and calcium carbonate. Then
agitate at 40°C. Add perfume and continue agitation for 30 minutes.
Add water if necessary to make up the necessary weight. Later
on this product can be roller milled, to make it free from gritty
crystals and entrapped air. Then the product is ready to be filled in
wax lined tubes just before conjealing temperature.
Formula 9
Mercapto acetic acid 2.4%

- Strontium hydrate 10.0
Calcium oxide 2.4
Colloidal clay 20.4
Methyl cellulose 2.2
Perfume 0.16
Water 62.44
Formula 10
Calcium thioglycolate 15%

Calcium hydroxide 5
Calcium carbonate 60
80,5
Formula 11
Thioglycolic acid 8%
Calcium oxide 8
Sodium dodecyl xanthate IS
Purified sperm oil 5
Water 64
The above formulations have a problem of perfuming. The task
of masking the unpleasant odour and rendering it consumer accept-
able makes it an arduous and frustrating task. There is a possibility
of the perfuming agents reacting with the ingredients, which may
develop discoloration as well distortion of the original perfume.
Hence they are to be selected carefully after intensive trials.
308 • -Textbook of Cosmetics
Packing of Thioglycolate Depilatories

The packing of depilatories can be done in jars, and tubes with wax
lined tin or preferably lead for the bodies of collapsible tubes.
Either polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride containers are not fully
satisfactory due to "cave in" of the side walls of round and oval
polyethylene bottles. However, advance in plastic technology gives
hope for suitable containers.
Toxicity
Although several cases of apparent sensitization of thioglycolic acid
have been cited, toxicity experiments shoW that solutions contain-
ing less than 80% of purified thioglycolate apparently do not cause
primary skin irritation.
ANALYSIS OF THIOGLYCOLIC ACID IN DEPILATORIES

lodometric Method
The volumetric determination of thioglycolic acid is.based on oxida-
tion.of the acid to dithioglycolic acid.
HS.CH2COOH S.CH2COOH
±12 = I +2H1
HS.CH2COOH S.CH2COOH
I = HS.CH2COOH = 92.11
The determination can be done by titrating directly with 0.1 N
Iodine, or the titration can be made with 0.1 N K103 after addition
of KI to the acidified solution:
K101 + 5 KI ± 6 HO = 6 KCI + 3 H 0+31 2
The iodine that is liberated reacts as mentioned above.

Reagents
Hydrochloric acid, conc.

Potassium iodide (powder)
Potassium iodate 0.1 N M03 . Fisher reagent
Congo red paper
Starch solution or thyodene powder indicator
Procedure
Weigh approximately 10 of depilatory on a watch glass. Transfer

to a 500 ml beaker containing 100 ml water. Add 20 ml hydrochlo-
ric acid to liberate the thioglycolic acid. Solution should be strongly
acid to Congo red paper. Warm the contents to 60-70°C for 3 min-
utes and cool to 50°C. Add approximately I g of potassium iodide
KI. Titrate with 0.1 N Kb 3 . Before the solution turns slightly am-
ber (due to free iodine), add indicator and complete the titration to a
faint lilac colour endpoint. The solution is not blue, due to the or-
ganic matter that is present.
%Thioglycollic acid = 9.211(A) (N)

W
A = ml potassium iodate used in the titration
N = Normality of potassium iodate
W = Weight of sample in gram
17
Shelf Life (Stability)
of Cosmetics
I ANY OTHER pharmaceutical product, cosmetics too need shelf-
Xguarantee, without any deterioration and in order to main-
tain this preservatives are suggested, which will help preventing
microbial growth or retarding oxidation in fats and oils etc. How-
ever, a preservative is different from germicides or antiseptics. The
problems in shelf-life cosmetics are diverse. For example:
I. May be due to the physical structure of the preparation
like, liquid emulsions, ointments, powders, etc., may be due
to factors influencing the growth of microorganisms like
nutritional factors, moisture, pH, temperature etc.,
2. Factors affecting the action of the preservative concentra
tion, incompatible substances, nature of combination etc.,
of incompatibilities.
3. Presence of compounds, which are inherently bacteriostatic
orfungistatic.
4. Purity of raw materials and maintenance of cleanliness/
sanitary operations while manufacturing, packaging of the
product.
Thus it is evident that deterioration may be due to physical, chemi-
cal, microbial, enzymatic conditions. Sometimes the deterioration is
Shelf Life of Cosmetics • 311
visible physically, or organoleptically like odour, colour, texture etc.

Odour changes may be due to the production of volatile substances,
such as aldehydes, keytones, acids, amines, sulfides, mercaptans
etc. Similarly colour changes are due to growth of pigment produc-
ing organisms to oxidative reactions, and other chemical reactions.
Changes in texture may be due to hydrolysis of starches,
solubilisation of proteinaccous material and microbial over growth.
Additionally sometimes destruction of active ingredients such as
vitamins, hormones, and allied substances may happen.
Most of the cosmetics, especially containing water are suscep-
tible to microbial growth. All most all cosmetics containing water
are susceptible to deterioration/microbial action. Sometimes, even
dry products like lipsticks too. Thus it is clear that all types of cos-
metics preparations, need preservatives to maintain their sheiflife
unless otherwise proved, that they are resistant to the growth of
microorganisms.
Often selection of preservatives poses problems. An ideal pre-
servative must have the following qualities.
I. Should be effective in all conditions of environment and
with a variety of ingredients with incompatibility and must
not alter the pH of the preparation.
2. It is better if it is soluble in its effective concentration
3. It must be stable and capable of sustained action.
4. Must be colourless and odourless.
5. Easily and economically formulated in the product.
6. Should be non-toxic and must not produce irritation.
Specially for cosmetics, this quality is highly essential. Recent
preservatives like parabens etc have dominated (superceded) the
old preservatives like salicylic acid, boric acid and its derivatives.
In general, the organisms that effect the cosmetics are Penicil-
hum, Aspergillus, Rhizopus, and Mucoir and Botrytis cinerca. Veg-
etative growth is fluffy, grey white to dark, with small single celled,
spores, borne on crowded, fine, warty swellings, along the rounded
tips of upright branches. This is visible on creams where it subsists
on the fatty acid residues of soap substances. The other possible
organisms are Arternaria, Stemphylium, Cladosporium, Yeasts,
Bacteria etc. and in bacteria, B-mycoides, Aerobacter acrogens,
Pseudomonas Sp. etc.
FACTORS INFLUENCING THE GROWTH OF

MICROORGANISMS
The general substrates for microorganisms found in cosmetics can
be classified as:
1. Carbohydrates and glycosides: Natural gums, mucilages,
pectins, starches, dextrins and sugars.
2. Alcohols: Glycerol, mannitol and fatty alcohols.
3. Fatty acids and their esters: animal and vegetables fats,
oils and waxes.
4. Steroids: Cholesterol, ergosterol and lanolin.
5. Proteins, peptones and aminoacids.
6. Vitamins.
Minerals
As minerals are essential to microbial growth although they are
highly variable in their requirements for growth and at times an-
tagonize biological effects. A single substrate like gelatin, may pro-
vide all of the above requirements.
Moisture Content
Bacteria in general require higher water content. Other factors
essential for growth of microbes are pH, temperature, oxygen etc.,
surface active agents generally present in cosmetics, may have an
effect on the type of growth of certain organisms. Among the most
obvious effects is the tendency to grow large in size. The effect of
ingredients such as certain perfumes, and essential oils, may pro-
vide added protection.
Efficacy of Preservatives
A preservative which can act with minimum concentration and
Sheff Life of Cosmetics • 313
maximum efficacy is ideal or the effective concentration should be

less. The solubility of preservative will also help in improving their
efficacy. For e.g. hydroxybenzoates. pH also has a considerable
effect on preservatives.
Evaluation of Preservatives
The official A.O.A.0 phenol coefficient methods, utilizes salmonella
typhosa, and micrococcus pyogenes var. aureus as test organisms.
Another method that can be followed is "zone of inhibition".
Procedure/Method for Testing

I. Keep the finished cosmetic in the final container at room
temperature for 6 months and examine periodically.
2. Inoculate the bacteria with various typical bacteria, yeasts,
moulds, and incubate for several weeks, examining the
product macroscopically and microscopically for evidence
of growth.
List of Preservatives
I. Organic acids
2. Alcohols
3. Aldehydes
4. Essential oils
5. Phenolic compounds
6. Esters of hydroxy benzoates
7. Methyl-5, ethyl-7, propyl- 12, butyl-5
8. Ophenylphenol
9. Mercury compounds
10. Surfactants
11. Miscellaneous nitrogen compounds
Antioxidants
Cosmetic preparations containing fats and oils, particularly those
characterized by a high-percentage of unsaturated linkages, are

susceptible to oxidative degradation. These materials may develop
rancidity. The addition of antioxidants prevents rancidity, as they
retard oxidation ;pd minimize changes in colour and texture of the
product. Moreover they can retard the breakdown of certain active
constituents, such as vitamins. Common antioxidants that are gen-
erally recommended are BHA, nordihydroguaiaretic acid and phos-
phoric acid. A commercially available combination of butylated
hydroxyanisole (20%) and 6% of propyl gallate, 4% of citric acid
and 70% of propylene glycol, is branded as Tenox II. Sustane is a
popularly used preservative in the food industry, but can also be
used in cosmetics. Other common anti-oxidants are butyl hydroxy
quinone, propyl gallate which protects against the pro-oxidant ef-
fects of dissolved iron.
As there is a strong possibility for the micro-organisms to grow
in fatty media, with subsequent splitting of fatty glycerides into glyc-
erol and fatty acids, followed by further decomposition. Moulds,
principally the pencillin aspergilli, attack fats and thereon rancidity
develops. However, adequate amounts and types of preservatives
prevent this type of rancidity.
LIST OF ANTIOXIDANTS
Phenolic Type
Amyl gatlate Dihydroxyphenols

BuLylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) Gallic acid
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) Guaiacol
2,5-di-tert-Butyl hydroquinone Gum guaniac
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA) Propyt gallate
Qulnone Type
Hydroxycoumarins
Tocopherols
Solvent-extracted wheat germ oil
Shelf Life of Cosmetics • 315
Amine Type
Casein and edestin Kephalin

Ethanolarnine Lecithin
Glutamic acid Plant and animal phosphatides
Hydroxamic acids Purines (Xanthine and uric acid)
Organic Acids, Alcohols and Esters
Ascorbic acid Mannitol

Citric acid Oxalic acid
Dilauryl thiopropionate Propionic acid
Distearyl thiopropionate Soibitol
Glucuronic acid Thrtaric acid
Isopropyl citrate malic acid Thiopropioruic acid
Malonic acid
Inorganic Acids and their Salts

Phosphoric acid and its salts fall in this category.
Index
A Antienzyme
toothpaste, 110
Absorption, 6 toothpowder, 104
Acetylated lanolin alcohol, 33 Antioxidants, 313
Acid mouthwash, 119 Antiperspirant(s), 203
Acidic cleansing cream, 61 and deodorants
Adhesiveness, 6 Labeling of, 218
Aftershave powder, 26 creams, 209
Aftershave preparation, 79, 81 lotions, 212
Alcohol lanolin ester, 34 powders, 212
Alcoholic lotions, 134 sticks, 212
Alkaline mouthwash, 116 Antiseptic mouthwash, 120
Alkyl benzene sulfonate shampoo Aromatic mouthwash, 118
Formula, 260 Astringent action
Alkyl sulphate shampoos Testing of, 97
Formulas, 260 Astringent lotions, 96
All-purpose cream(s), 59 Mild, 224
olw nonionic type Astringent mouthwash, 118, 119
Formula, 59
All-synthetic detergent shampoo
bar, 265 B
Am' dyes, 184 Baby creams, 242
Ammoniated tooth powder, 102 Formulas, 247
Anatomy of nails, 191 Baby lotions, 238, 240
Anhydrous creams, 285 Formulas, 244
Anionic emulsifiers, 43 Baby oils, 237,240
Anionics, 43 Formulas, 243
Antacid toothpowder, 104 Baby powders, 28, 241
Antibacterial creams, 62 Formulas, 250
Antibacterials, 264 Baby products, 236
Antidandruff shampoo(s), 265 Baby shampoo, 269
Formulas, 265 Formulas, 252
Baby toiletries, 236, 237 Chemical

Bar cake shaving soap bleaches, 175
Formula, 68 depilatories, 302
Barrier agents, 38 Chewing gums
Bath oils, 274 containing plaque inhibitors,
Bath powders, 279 126
Formulas, 280 for improvement of saliva flow,
Bath preparations, 271 127
Bath salts, 272 Chlorophyll
Formulas, 273 toothpaste, 110
Bay rum hair tonics toothpowder, 103
Formulas, 137 Cinnamon type mouthwash, 120
Beard softeners, 75 Clarifying agents, 262
Beer concentrate, 268 Cleansing cream, acidic. 61
Beer shampoo, 268
Clear liquids, 185
Binder
Clear lotions, 80
Water repellent. 294
Cocoa toothpowder, 105
Water soluble, 293
Cocoa-butter hand and body
Black dye combinations. 187
lotions, 99
Bleaches, 175
Cocoa-butter suntan lotion, 99
Body powder, 26
Coconut oil shampoo, 258
Brilliantines, 130
Formula, 258
Brushless shaving cream, 68, 73
Colour shampoos, 179, 186
Formulas, 74
Coloured rinses, 177
Bubble bath, 276
Formulas, 278,279 Colouring agents, 50
Colouring of hair, 176
Commercial rinse, 181
C Compact rouges, 290
Cake makeup, 19 Compound henna, 189
Catechu, 182 Conditioning agents, 263
Cationics, 44 Conditioning shampoo, 269
Cationic Cooling emulsion, 225
lotion, 238 Cooling lotion (calamine type),
ointments 224
Mechanism of action, 239 Copper dyes, 189
Chalk, 291 Formula, 189
Chamomile, 181 Cosmetics
henna mixtures, 182 Shelf life (stability) of, 310
pack, 182 Cosmeticss for nails, 191
shampoo, 182 Covering powder, 5, 6
Charcoal toothpowders, 105 Crayons, 176
Index • 319
Cream Dry binder, 294
dyes, 187 Dry compression method, 17
mascara, 233 Dry rouge
rouge, 285 Manufacture of, 295
Creame or creame paste shampoo. Dry scalp tonics
255 Formulas, 140
Formula, 255 Dye removers, 190
Creams
Formulas, 249
Creamy pearl rouge, 284 E
Cuticle Effervescent soak, 124
cream, 199 Egg shampoo, 255
softener, 199 Emollient(s), 31
creams
non-ionic olw type
D Formulas, 55
Dental care special products, 123 non-ionic win type
Dental plaque, mouthwash for Formulas, 57
removing and preventing, Emulsified
121 creams, 287
Dentifrice speckles, 125 hair dressings
Dentifrices Formulas, 149,154
Liquid hair grooms
Manufacture of, 111 Formulas, 158
Packing of, 106,113 Emulsifiers, 43
Denture cleaners, 123 Emulsifying cream eye shadow,
Denture cleansing powder, 124 229
Den creams, 215 Emulsion binder, 294
Deodorant(s), 203, 213 Emulsions
powders, 213 Oil-in-water, 146
sticks. 216 Water-in-oil, 155
Depilatories, 299 Epilators, 300
analysis of thioglycolic acid in, Formula, 300
308 Esterified lanolin alcohols, 33
containing thioglycolates, 306 Evaluation of
Depilatory pastes, 304 Preservatives, 313
Detergent cleansing creams or Shampoos, 264
soap creams, 62 Eye creams, 234
Diaper area, care of, 238 Eye makeup products, 226
Diaper rash, 238 Eyebrow pencils, 231
F Gum-based hair dressings, 144,

145
Face powder
Hair conditioners, 153, 154
Properties of, 5
Hair creams, 156
Varities in, 16
Hand creams, 53
Factors influencing the growth of
Hand lotions, 54
microorganisms, 312
Herbal shampoo, 256
Fatty acid esters, 37
High-gloss hair emulsion, 160
Fatty acids. 35
Jaborandi hair tonics, 139
Fatty alcohols, 38
Lather cream, 72
Finishing agents, 262
Liquid rouge. 282
Fluoride toothpowder, 104
Liquid shampoos, 254, 255
Foam builders, 263
Low-viscosity hair emulsions,
Formula(s)
161
Alkyl benzene sulfonate
Lubrication lotion (oily), 79
shampoo, 260
Non-ionic shampoo, 261
Alkyl sulphate shampoos, 260
Oily scalp tonics, 140
All-purpose cream (o/w non-
Protective dental film, to form,
ionic type), 59
123
Antidandruff shampoos, 265
Resorcinol hair tonics, 138
Baby cream, 247
Toothpowders, 102
Baby oils, 243
Triethanolamine shampoo, 257
Baby powders, 250
Vegetable oil shampoo, 257
Baby shampoo, 252
Formulations containing speckles,
Bar cake shaving soap, 68
126
Bath powders, 280
Freckle lotion, 100
Bath salts, 273
Fustic, 182
Bay rum hair tenics, 137
Brushless shaving cream, 74
Bubble bath, 278, 279 G
Coconut oil shampoo, 258
Copper dyes, 189 Gel toothpaste. 113
Creame or creame paste Formula, 114
shampoo, 255 Glycerin and rosewater lotion with
Creams, 249 vitamin E, 99
Dry scalp tonics, 140 Glycerin lotion, 98
Emollient creams Gum-based hair dressings. 143
non-ionic o/w type, 55 Formulas, 144,145
non-ionic w/o type, 57
Emulsified
hair dressings, 149, 154 H
hair grooms, 158 Hair and scalp, care of. 242
Epilator, 300 Hair care products, 128
Index • 321
Hair conditioners Lacquers, 180
Formulas, 153,154 Lanolin, 31
Hair creams Modified, 32
Formulas, 156 Lanolin alcohols, 31
Hair dressings Lather characteristics, 71
Types of, 129 Lather cream
Hair dyes, 174 Formulas. 72
Hair rinses, certified colours for, Lather phaving cream, 69
178 Lemon lofion, 93
Hair straighteners. 162 Light face powder with zinc oxide
Hair tonics, 136 for popular shade, 7
Hand creams, 29 Liquid
Formulas, 53 antiperspirants, 207
Hand lotions, 29, 63, 89,94 brilliantines, 130
Formulas, 54 cream or cream lotion shampoo,
Healing agents. 39 254
Heavy face powder with zinc cream powders or "night
oxide and titanium dioxide whites", 20
for popular shades, 9 dentifrices, 106
Henna and henna mixtures, 181 Manufacture of, Ill
Henna shampoo, 181 deodorants, 214
Herbal shampoo, 256 eye shadow, 230
Formula, 256 lanolins, 32
High-gloss hair emulsion nail bleach (nail white), 200
Formulas. 160 non-aqueous shampoo, 256
Honey as lubricating agent rouge, 282
Use of, 266 Formulas, 282
Humectants, 41, 72 shampoo, 182. 254
Hydrocarbons, 35 Formula, 254,255
toothpastes, 106
Lotions, 88
Low-viscosity hair emulsions
Jaborandi hair tonics
Formulas, 161
Formulas, 139
Lubrication lotion (oily)
Formula, 79
I-.'-
'I
Kaolin, 291 M
Magnesium carbonate. 291
L Manicure preparations. 19
Labeling of antiperspirants and Manufacture of
deodorants, 218 Dry rouge, 295
Liquid dentifrices, Ill Newborn

Toothpastes, 112 Skin care of. 237
Toothpowders, 106 Nicotine removers, 201
Mascara, 231 Non-ionic shampoo
Medium face powder Formula, 261
with purified kaolin for popular Non-ionics, 45, 261
shades. 8 Nutgalls, 183
with titanium dioxide for
popular shades, 8
Menthol lotion, 92 0
Metal stearates, 292 Oil-in-water emulsions, 146
Metallic dyes, 187 Oily scalp tonics
Advantages and disadvantages Formulas, 140
of, 190 Olive oil shampoo, 257
Method of incorporation of Opacifying agents, 262
preservative, 48 Oral hygenic products, 101
Microorganisms, factors Orange mouthwash, 119
influencing the growth of, Oxidation dyes, forms of, 185
312
Milk of magnesia toothpaste. Ill
Mixed wood dyes, 183 P
Modified lanolin, 32 Packing of
Mouthwash(es), 115 Dentifrices, 106, 113
For removing and preventing Thioglycolate depilatories, 308
dental plaque, 121 Penicillin toothpowder, 103
Formula, 116 Peppermint foot lotion, 99
Special types, 120 Perfumes, 49, 293
Permanent colouring, 180
PH of shampoo, 264
N Phospholipids, 34
Nail bleach (nail white), 200 Physical forms of modern
Nail cream, 198 221
Nail enamel, 195 Pigments, 292
Nail polish Pilocarpine for dry mouth relief,
pastes, 197 120
powders, 197 Pineapple juice hand lotion, 91
removers, 196 Polyoxyalkylene lanolins, 33
Nail white, 200 Powder(s), 86,174
Nails, anatomy of, 191 bases, 13
Natural dyes with mordants, 184 depilatory, 304
Natural organic dyes, 180 Ike-electric shave preparation. 77
Neutral cream type, 288 Preparation of speckles, 125
Index • 323
Preservatives, 47, 23 Shaving cream, 67
Efficacy of, 312 Shaving soaps, 67
Evaluation of, 313 Shelf life (stability) of cosmetics,
Method of incorporation of, 48 310
Preshave preparation, 74 Silver dyes, 188
Primary alkyl sulfates, 260 Skin care of the newborn, 237
Products of good hair dressing, Skin conditioner, 76
129 Skin toning lotion and fresheners,
Properties of face powder, 5 94
Protective dental film, Formula to Soap type cake mascara. 232
form, 123 Sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate,
259
0 Sodium alkyl naphthalene

sulfonate, 259
"Quartermaster corps" sunburn Solid and liquid creams, 83
cream, 223 Solid brilliantines, 132
Quercitron, 183 Solid oil and wax rouges, 289
Solid rouges, 289
Speckles
K
Formulations containing. 126
Resorcinol hair tonics Preparation of. 125
Formulas, 138 Speckling material, 126
Resorcinol mouthwash, 117 Starch, 292
Rich massage lotion, 99 Stearate type cake mascara, 232,
Rosin-based epilatories, 301 233
Rouge, 281 Stearic acid, 35
Modern obtained by fractional
Physical forms of, 281 distillation, 36
obtained by hydrogenation. 36
S obtained by pressing, 35
obtained by solvent
Salo]-thymol mouthwash. 117
crystallization, 36
Sequestering agents, 262
Sterols, 34
Shampoo(s), 253
Acidic pH Stick eye shadow, 230
composition of, 267 Stick lotions, 83
Additives, 261 Styptics, 87
Basic pH Sulfonated (sulfated) oils, 260
composition of, 267 Sun screens, 219, 223
Definition of, 253 Sunburn
Evaluation of, 264 Treatment of, 224
Shades, 185 Sunburn preventive preparation,
Types and forms, 253 223
Sunshade ointment, 222 No-layer lotions, 141
Suntan cream. 222 Types of hair dressings, 129
Fatty, 221
Non-fatty, 222
Suntan jelly, 221 V
Suntan lotion (alcoholic). 221 Vanishing cream type, 287
Suntan oil, 221 Varities in face powders, 16
Synthetic dyes, 184 Vegetable oil shampoo
Synthetics Formula, 257
Need for, 258 Vegetable oils and soaps, 257
T W
Tablet toothpowder, 127 Walnut, 183
Talc, 291 Water repellent binder. 294
Talcum powders, 25 Water soluble binder, 293
Tartar removing toothpowder, 104 Water-in-oil emulsions, 155
Testing of astringent action, 97 Wave sets, 180
Therapeutic creams, 60 Wet compression method, 17
Thickening agents, 263 Wet moulding method, 17
Thioglycolate depilatories White base
Packing of, 308 for heavy powders with zinc
Thioglycolates, 167 oxide and titanium dioxide,
Titanium dioxide, 292 13
Toilet goods association for light pnwders with zinc
specification for oxide, 12
thioglycolates. 170 for medium powders with zinc
Toilet powders, 24 oxide, 12
Toothpastes Witch hazel and benzoin lotion, 93
Manufacture of, 112 Witch hazel lotion, 92
Toothpowders ' Wood extracts, 182
Formula, 102
Manufacture of, 106
Treatment of sunburn, 224 Z
Triethanolamine shampoo, 268 Zinc oxide. 292
Formula, 257 Zinc sulphate plus ascorbic acid,
Two-layer cleansing tablet, 126 122

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Textbook of

T GIVES ME great pleasure to write this Foreword for this path-

HIS VOLUME 15 A compilation of cosmetic products of body atIJ

ACKNOWLEDGE WITH GREAT fondness the encouragement and help

A face powder manufacturer's priority concerns the require-

PROPERTIES OF FACE POWDER

One of the important functions of a face powder is to conceal the

A bulk of the commercial face powder constitutes the materials

Medium Face Powder with Purified Kaolin with Popular Shades

Medium Face Powder with Titanium Dioxide for Popular Shades

Materials White Peach Rachel Natural Flesh Ochre Suntan

It may be noted that colours purchased in fairly large quantities

It is of utmost importance to note that the quality of raw materials

Precipitated chalk Lightest, whitest grade.

Zinc oxide 22.83

White Base for Medium Powders with Zinc Oxide

With Titanium Dioxide

Talc 74.5 30.0

Talc 20.0 38.0

Talc 15.0 67.0

Talc 52.5 67.0

VARITIES IN FACE POWDERS

Wet Compression Method

Dry Compression Method

Wet Moulding Method

A typical binding solution formula is given below:

Compact Powder Base No. 1

Mix the powdered materials in a mixer together with the proper

In order to obtain these properties the study of certain mineral

It is imperative for the chemist to combine these mixed earths on

No. 1 Liquid Powder

No.2 Liquid Powder

No.3 Liquid Powder

No.4 Liquid Powder

No. 5 Liquid Powder

Dissolve the potassium hydroxide in water, melt the stearic acid

Toilet powders comprise of talcum powder, dusting powder or

There are other cosmetic powders such as deodorant powders,

HE PRESENT DAY cosmetic market has many forms of hand prod

Since the characteristics of a hand treatment formula are depen-

dent upon the ingredients, it would be worth classifying and dis-

Agents like lanolin and its derivatives, sterols phospholipids, hydro-

Lanolin alcohols, derived from lanolin are commercially available

The emollient effect produced by lanolin is generally attributed

Esterifled Lanolin Alcohols

Acetyla ted Lanolin Alcohol

2. They are emollient without excessive stickiness.

Alcohol Lanolin Ester

Lecithin, a phospholipid, has found a place in the hand cream

The percentage of stearic acid used in hand creams being appre-

Stearic Acid obtained by Pressing

into a liquid and solid portion by a series of pressings. The solid

Stearic Acid obtained by Solvent Crystallization

Stearic Acid obtained by Hydrogenation

Stearic Acid obtained by Fractional Distillation

Fatty Acids Esters

1. Good consistency and ease of application.

Urea has been used in hand products. It is found to be beneficial

Hand Creams and Lotions • 41

Humectants are agents that control the moisture exchange between

mot. WI. Viscosity Volatility

Their behavioral patterns when used in hand creams and lotions

However, it was found that the choice of humectants could not be