Lugia Plushie

Lugia Plushie
Ok y'all. Here he is. Lugia.
I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy, but hey, I'm not a photographer LOL and I'm stuck
with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it.
This doll ain't for the faint of heart. It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few
serious dolls under their belts!
He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well.
I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions, just take it one step at a
time and I'll try to help you as much as I can... just post if you have any questions! I've been
sick all week, and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly, so if you find anything that's
wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it!
Ok guys, here goes.... and good luck! :D

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue
G hook
Fiberfill
Embroidery thread
Small pieces of felt in white and black
Sewing thread to match colors
Yarn Needle
Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional)
NOTES:
Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual
tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through.
Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that
round or row.
Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie'
form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing
line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try
weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able
to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer
weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform
over time.
Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous
rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with
the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join
your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern.
Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to
make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's
best used for display purposes only.
Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc,
3 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22)
Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24)
Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape
the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and
tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as
you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly
where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on.
Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28)
Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3)
HEAD CREST:

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
F/O and weave in ends.
You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the
head,
Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for
help with placement)
WINGS (make2):
(If you wish to add a wire frame to the
wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I
recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll.
Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going
to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use
the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight)
Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down
the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and
each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc)
Do not fasten off.
Begin first 'finger':

Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at
a time, but using both sides for each finger.
Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the
other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to
first sc of 'finger'
(10 sc)
Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10)
Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.
F/O. Weave in ends.
Remaining Fingers:
Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as
joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger.
For 'thumb'.
Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down
other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10)
Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.
F/O. Weave in ends.
Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger.
Wings were not stuffed.
Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now.
LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends.
FOOT (make 2):

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec
over next 2 sc around (12)
Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire.
Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the
feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'.
Sew the foot to end of leg as shown.
BELLY DECORATION:
Using medium blue:

Begin points:
Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)
Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4)
Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2)
Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1)
F/O. Weave in end.
Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and
complete second point same as for first:
Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around
outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made.
Pin to body over chest/stomach area.
PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):
Using darker blue:
Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6)
Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6)
SPIKES ON TAIL:
Using darker blue:

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown.
EYE FEATHER (make 2):
Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2
chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the
other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in
next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last.
Pin to head as shown in photos.
ASSEMBLY:
All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's
really important you get everything just the way you want it :D
Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through
already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew
it all down.
Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last.
Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010).

Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this
pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.
You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not
sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Lugia Plushie

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Ok y'all. Here he is. Lugia.

Ok guys, here goes.... and good luck! :D

Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Begin first 'finger':

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Using medium blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to body over chest/stomach area.

PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):

Using darker blue:

Using darker blue:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

EYE FEATHER (make 2):

Pin to head as shown in photos.

Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010).

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