Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Urushi 2
Urushi 2
Lacquerware
Zhong 71
Figure 4. Carved screen from
Wangshan, Jiangling (Hubei
province). Hubei Provincial
Museum.
72 Zhong
Figure 5. Painted inner coffin
from the first tomb of
Mawangdui, Changsha (Hunan
province). Hunan Provincial
Museum.
Zhong 73
Lacquerware consists of a combination of a substrate and an outer coating.
Raw lacquer is an excellent natural paint. If raw lacquer is mixed with pigment, it
forms a paint that can be applied on a substrate and becomes a skin like layer. Only
after the stages of polishing, painting, molding, inlaying, carving, and burnishing
with gold and silver, does it become "lacquerware. " The coating serves as both protec
tion and decoration.
Natural raw lacquer comes from trees of the angiosperm class. Originally, lac
quer trees grew only in the wild. Starting with the Han dynasty, however, they began
to be cultivated. More and more lacquer trees were planted in the Song and Yuan
dynasties and they began to flourish in the Ming and Qing dynasties. The production
of raw lacquer spread over fifteen provinces. The trees grow mainly in high moun
tainous areas and hilly regions. The lacquer sap is stored in channels within the tree.
If the tree is damaged, the channels are broken and the sap flows from the tree. If a
cut is made in the bark of a living tree, the milklike substance that flows out is raw lac
quer. Fresh lacquer is milky-white or grayish-yellow and changes color when exposed
to air.
The raw lacquer is heated, some of the water is removed, and it is mixed with
oil (probably tung-oil). Then it is mixed with pigments to obtain bright and colorful
lacquer. Raw lacquer does not peel or chip and is a protective, noncorroding, acid-,
scratch-, heat- and waterproof, bright and shiny, long-lasting coating.
The substrate forms the physical structure of the lacquerware. Various materi
als can be used as substrate: wood, bamboo, cane, silk, ramie, leather, porcelain, gold,
silver, copper, tin, lead, etc. Since wood is the most commonly used, the following dis
cussion will concentrate on wooden substrates .
Wood is an organiC substance that will decay to different degrees according
to whether it is buried underground or exposed to air. The decay process can involve
the wood rotting, decomposing, growing mold, changing color, becoming infested
with termites, drying and cracking, deforming, and/or becoming saturated with
water. The natural characteristics of the wood and its environment determine the
degree of decay. If wood is immersed in water for a long time or buried in wet soil, it
can become waterlogged, sometimes to the point of resembling tofu. Wooden sub
strates that have been excavated contain 1 00--400% absorbed water and sometimes
up to 700%. This particular decay process of lacquerware has therefore become an
important area of research. The dewatering of lacquerware must be strictly controlled
to prevent or minimize deformation.
Some of the lacquerware buried several thousand years ago is well preserved.
Some of it has decayed because of its environment. Temperature, moisture content,
the acidity of the moisture, the chemical makeup of the soil, and the quality of the
air in the tomb can affect the lifespan of lacquerware. In the first tomb of Mawangdui
(Western Han dynasty), the coffins, burial articles, and even the body were well pre
served. There were ISO pieces of lacquerware among the burial articles. Inside the lac
querware containers, various fruits, beef, and lotus-root remained. The major factor in
the preservation of these items was the depth of the tomb, about sixteen meters. The
coffins were surrounded by charcoal, about 30-40 cm thick. The charcoal was covered
by about 60-130 cm of thick white soil. The white soil was covered with a thick red
clay which does not easily permit seepage. Using this technique, the tomb was sealed
securely. The temperature of the coffin chamber was between I S-20·C. When the
tomb was excavated, the temperature inside the outer coffin was I S·C. This
environment, characterized by low temperature, constant moisture content, lack of
oxygen and light, and no bacterial growth, preserved the lacquerware and other cul
tural relics. When the tomb was uncovered and the chamber opened, the sudden
exposure of the lacquerware to the outside air disrupted the relatively stable environ
ment. As a result, the lacquerware began to crack shortly after excavation. Many of
74 Zhong
the coffins of the Warring States period and the Western Han dynasty, although
buried in tomb chambers, were found to be decayed at the time of excavation. Some,
which had not decayed, were found immersed in water. The destruction of lacquer
ware by saturation is a big problem and the environment of lacquerware is therefore
very important.
Lacquerware preserved in museums must be kept in a special environment
and well cared for so as to prevent the process of decay and maintain the original con
dition. While environment has an effect on lacquerware, the process of decay is slow
and difficult to observe. It becomes apparent, however, after much time has passed.
Change of color, brittleness, drying and shrinking, distortion and loss of luster are
caused by exposure to oxygen, light, and air pollution. Lacquerware is prone to
shrinkage and expansion of the substrate. The shrinkage is caused by dryness and the
expansion by moisture. Therefore environment is a major concern. The temperature
must be kept between I S-22°C and the relative humidity between 60-65%. The lac
querware must be shielded from high light-levels and pieces that have been
dewatered must be kept in boxes. If the lacquerware coating begins to crack, buckle,
or chip, repair must take place immediately so that the substrate is not harmed.
The key to preservation of ancient lacquerware that has been saturated is to
reinforce it so that it keeps its form . The excavation of a great deal of lacquerware has
demonstrated that raw lacquer is an excellent coating. It is easily applied, durable,
and resistant to decay. Some of the substrates had been destroyed by saturation and
only the raw lacquer coating remained. If lacquerware is left to dry naturally after it is
excavated, it will shrink, crack, buckle, and chip, and finally be destroyed. A great
deal of ancient Chinese lacquerware has been found. At times numerous pieces have
been excavated from a single tomb. This was the case with the Chu tomb in
Xingyang, Henan province, the Warring States tomb in Suixian, Hubei province, and
the Western Han tombs in Jiangling, Hubei province, and Mawangdui, Changsha,
Hunan province. In order to preserve these rare remains of ancient civilizations, a
good deal of research and experimentation has been done by scientists. This falls into
two areas.
First, the dewatering of the wood and bamboo substrates of lacquerware,
while at the same time maintaining the original form of the object, has been investi
gated . Second, attention has been given to the choice of the proper types of material
with which to fill and reinforce the lacquerware to increase its durability. These two
areas of concern are often considered together, though the first is of greater impor
tance. If the original form of ancient lacquerware is to be preserved, the addition of
any new material is not desirable. As long as the objects are periodically dewatered, it
is not necessary to add any new materials to reinforce them. If, however, the objects
are already seriously decayed, they cannot be preserved without reinforCing them
with new materials. The purpose of using new materials is to protect the original
material rather than to replace it. The new coating material must be of the same
quality as the original. In cases where the original material is not available, the use of
other materials is acceptable. In this way, lacquerware that has already begun to decay
can be rescued before it decays further. When it is necessary to use different materials,
it is best to choose those which are removable so that if more suitable material
becomes available, the previously used material can be replaced. The various methods
of reinforcing saturated lacquerware are presented in the following paragraphs.
Drying naturally Lacquerware can be placed in a special environment and left to dry naturally.
This environment must be very stable. The relative humidity must be above normal,
yet not to the point of complete saturation. In this way, the water can evaporate
slowly from the objects. The slower the process of evaporation, the better the results.
The saturated lacquerware is in a state of equilibrium. In order to dewater the lacquer-
Zhong 75
ware, the state of equilibrium must be destroyed. Drying naturally is the best method
of gradually changing the state of equilibrium and evaporating the water slowly until
dewatering is finally achieved. The various possible environments are listed below:
1 . Sealed drying boxes. The lacquerware is placed in a sealed glass box in
order to dewater slowly. The condensation on the object inside the box and on the
surface of the box must be removed frequently until the weight of the object becomes
constant. Then the dewatering process is complete. This method is best suited to the
dewatering of small objects.
2. Plastic wrapping. Larger objects that cannot be contained in drying boxes
are wrapped in plastic and then placed in sealed containers. These containers are peri
odically opened so that the condensation can be removed. After a period of time, the
object is completely dewatered.
3 . High-humidity controlled chambers. The objects are placed in controlled
chambers with high relative humidity, which is stabilized at about 95%. The objects
are dewatered slowly. In basements with high relative humidity, the dewatering
process can be completed in one to three years.
4. Burial. Large objects are buried in wet sand or sawdust. The dampness of
the sand or sawdust must be measured periodically and it must be replaced by sand or
sawdust containing less water. In this way, the relative humidity of the environment
can be controlled and the objects dewatered.
5. Constant temperature. The objects are placed in boxes with constant
temperature and relative humidity. The temperature is set at 32°C. The objects are
taken out every four hours and immersed in distilled water for ten minutes. They are
then replaced in the boxes. The process is continued for several months until the
objects are dewatered.
6. Glycerol spraying. In order to keep the surface of the objects moist and
evaporate the water, glycerol is sprayed over them. Since glycerol absorbs water, the
surface temperature of the lacquerware 'can be controlled and the water evaporated.
7. Environment controlled by inorganic salts. Inorganic saline solutions can
be used to control relative humidity so that lacquerware can be dewatered. The
various salts: CUS04 • 5 HzO, KN03, KCl, NaCl, NaNOz, and Mg(N03)Z, are dissolved
in water and put in different containers. Each saline solution creates a different level
of relative humidity, ranging from 98% to 53%. The lacquerware is first placed in a
container of saline solution, which creates the highest relative humidity. It is then
transferred to a different saline solution with lower relative humidity, then to a solu
tion with still lower relative humidity, etc. In this way the lacquerware can be
dewatered slowly. The lacquerware, however, must not come into direct contact with
the saline solution.
8. Silica gel. Silica gel is a common hygroscopic agent. Different quantities of
silica gel are placed in different containers. Different degrees of relative humidity are
achieved by varying the amount of silica gel. The lacquerware is placed in a drying
box, along with a container of silica gel, and dewatering takes place.
These eight methods require different conditions. They are all, however,
simple, economical, practical, and have no negative side-effects. In addition, the origi
nal form of the object is maintained while dewatering takes place. The drawback of
these methods is that they are time-consuming. They usually take several years . In
order to use these drying methods, the object must be completely intact, with a solid
substrate and low saturation.
acuum drying
V Saturated lacquerware can be kept under vacuum to be dewatered. These
methods require the use of drying techniques. There are three specific methods that
can be followed.
76 Zhong
1 . Vacuum drying. Saturated lacquerware is placed in a vacuum chamber.
After the machine is turned on, water is evaporated from the objects. After the
4
vacuum pressure reaches 700 mmHg (9.3 x 10 Pa), the machine is turned off. The
4
vacuum pressure decreases naturally to 500 mmHg (6. 7 x 10 Pa). The machine is
turned on again and the processs is repeated until the object reaches constant weight.
2. Vacuum drying with heat. The lacquerware is first placed in a vacuum
chamber at 70·C with the machine turned off. After some of the water has escaped,
the machine is turned on for dewatering.
3 . Vacuum drying with refrigeration. After the water in the lacquerware has
been turned to ice in a low-temperature environment, the objects are transferred to a
vacuum chamber where they are lyophilized. The key to using this method is to have
a system that can provide low temperature and high vacuum pressure. In a low
temperature refrigerator or a container with dry ice that can reach -20·C, the water
can be frozen quickly. This method is suitable for objects with rough coatings and
thick wooden substrates or those that are already broken or decayed.
Solution displacement This is the classic method of dewatering. When the lacquerware is immersed
in water mixed with an organiC solvent, the solvent can permeate the object by
osmosis. Thus the water in the lacquerware is displaced. The advantage of this
method is the speed with which dewatering occurs. It is best suited to small, thin
objects with smooth textures.
1 . Alcohol and ether. Alcohol is used to displace the water in the substrate
and then the alcohol is displaced by diethyl ether. Afterwards, the object is placed in
an environment at ambient temperature or under vacuum. The diethyl ether then
evaporates automatically and the object is dewatered. While diethyl ether, propan-
2-01, propan-l-ol or 2-methylpropan-2-01 can be used, diethyl ether is the most com
mon. This method is best suited to objects that are already decayed or are made of
soft wood.
2. Acetonitrile. Acetonitrile is the most effective for dewatering lacquerware
and does not harm the original coating. The water is displaced by acetonitrile, which
is then displaced by diethyl ether. Afterwards, the lacquerware is placed in an environ
ment at ambient temperature or under vacuum and the diethyl ether evaporates natu
rally. This method is best suited to delicate objects.
Permeation Organic or inorganic high polymer material can-be used to permeate and fill
reinforcement the structure and cells of the wood. In this way, the cells of the wood are supported
and reinforced and shrinkage is prevented. This is one of the methods for reinforcing
saturated lacquerware.
1 . AIK(S04)z • 12HzO. Aluminum potassium sulfate dodecahydrate is very
easily dissolved in hot water. At room temperature, it can barely be dissolved. The
state of condensation of AlK(S04)z
• 12HzO changes with temperature. At high
temperatures, the AIK(S04)z
• 1 2HzO and water solution can displace the water in the
lacquerware. When the temperature is lowered, AIK(S04)z • 12HzO crystallizes and
remains in a solid state in the wooden structure and the object is reinforced.
2. High polymer material.
(i) Monomer permeation reinforcement. The monomer of high polymer
material permeates the wood and polymerizes. Thus the structure of the lac
querware substrate is reinforced.
(ii) Water-insoluble high polymer reinforcement. First, an organiC solvent
is used to displace the water in the lacquerware. Then the wooden structure
is permeated with a water-insoluble high polymer material combined with
diethyl ether. When the diethyl ether evaporates, the water-insoluble high
Zhong 77
polymer material remains and reinforces the structure. This method is also
called the alcohol diethyl ether resin immersion method.
(iii) Water-soluble high polymer reinforcement. A water-soluble high poly
mer material permeates the substrate of the lacquerware and displaces the
water, then solidifies. Among the many kinds of high polymer material are
polyethylene glycol, phenolic resins and others. Polyethylene glycol is easy
to use, cheap, nontoxic, non odorous, nonpolluting, and not easily
flammable. It also has the reputation of not being harmful to workers.
The steps taken to preserve cultural relics must follow the principle of not
changing the original state of the object. The original state includes all the materials
of which the object is made. Therefore filling ancient lacquerware with modern high
polymer materials or inorganic materials is never the best method. It is only accept
able for those pieces which are already decayed.
Each piece of lacquerware has its own characteristics. Therefore the methods
of dewatering and reinforcement must be applied with consideration for the
individual piece. These methods should be used only after experimentation and then
with great care. New methods should continually be sought.
78 Zhong
The Preservation and Handing Down of
Traditional Urushi Art Techniques in Japan
Shin Yagihashi
Agency for Cultural Affairs, Tokyo
he traditional techniques of the applied arts and the performing arts are
Yagihashi 79
Figure 1 . Yusai Akaji, colored
urushi dish in magewa
technique, 1 961, height 1 0.2
cm, diameter 42 cm. Notice
the simple and forceful shape
of the magewa.
magewa (thin strip of wood used in making magemono) and then joined them to form
the shape. The slits between each magewa correct the distortion caused by the drying
of the wooden base so that the magemono becomes firm and free from deformity.
Furthermore, the magewa itself becomes an element of the design and expresses lucid
and modern beauty.
_ '\,it':" ',
low, and green, but today a variety of colors is possible. Using these richly colored
-';!'
\ urushi, Otomaru demonstrated the complicated and delicate effect of urushi and
perfected the modern choshitsu technique.
80 Yagihashi
Taiho Mae (1 890-1 977). Chinkin (Fig. 4)
Chinkin is the typical decorative technique found in Wajima-nuri (lacquer
ware from Waj ima), in which the urushi surface is carved with a special knife and the
incisions are filled with gold leaf and gold filings, thus exhibiting sharp lines of gold
color. In order for the gold leaf to be laid in precisely and give out an intense brilli
ance, the carving knife is shaped so that the base of the incision is smooth.
Taiho Mae was a leading chinkin artist in Wajima. Chinkin is basically a linear
technique, and it is difficult to produce a dimensional expression; Mae, however,
developed a new method of multidimensional expression with pOintillism.
Figure 4. Taiho Mae, small
box with cat design in
chinkin technique, 1 959,
6 cm x 12.5 cm x 26 cm.
Except for the whiskers and
eyelashes of the cat, the rest is
carved in pointillist technique
in order to give dimension to
the body.
Yagihashi 81
Masami Isoi (1926- ). Kinma (Fig. 6)
Masami Isoi is the third son of Joshin Isoi. After army service in World
War II, he was trained by his father and studied kinma. Masami succeeded to the crea
tive techniques of his father, who was widely skilled in many techniques besides
kinma, introducing new designs one after another. For example, among the tradi
tional techniques of Kagawa shikki, the zansei technique is as famous as kinma. Zansei
-
is a technique in which the outline of the design drawn in colored urushi is line
engraved and then either left as it is or filled with colored urushi or gold. Masami Isoi
created a new form of artistic expression by uniting the zansei and kinma techniques.
Figure 6. Masami Isoi, box
with design of stone pavement
in zonsei technique, 1 980, Shozan Takano (1889-1976). Makie (Fig. 7)
1 0.5 cm x 1 7.4 cm x 27.5 cm.
Makie-sprinkling metallic powder on a wet lacquer surface to form a picture
Zonsei technique is used on
the band of stones. The or design-is one of the principle decorative techniques in the art of urushi. Since
speckled design of the sUrface there are numerous types of makie technique, there are a number of holders, each
of the earth is expressed in
kinma technique. with his own characteristics. Takano was from Kumamoto prefecture and is senior to
Mashiki Masumura. After studying basic urushi technique in Kumamoto, he attended
the Department of Urushi Arts at the Kyoto Municipal Art College and went on to the
Department of Urushi Art at Tokyo National Art College. He was especially successful
at the finely detailed makie technique of Shosai Shirayama, under whom he studied
in Tokyo. The characteristic of Takano's makie is that he raises hard urushi in order to
make shadows along the sides, thereby creating a forceful effect. Takano's works in
kiji-makie are modern in style, contrasting the smooth surface of makie with the rough
surface of the paulownia wood base. He is one of the contributors to the development
of the makie technique from the delicate and detailed art of the Edo period to one
that is adaptable to modern art forms.
82 Yagihashi
Shogyo Ohba (1916- ) . Makie ( Fig. 9)
Ohba, born in Kanazawa, Ishikawa prefecture, learned kyushitsu from his
father and then went to Tokyo where he studied makie under Gonroku Matsuda.
While he was engaged in the preservation and restoration of classical urushi with
Matsuda, he deepened his knowledge of hyomon (metal set flush into urushi) and is
now the leading exponent of this technique. Ohba's hyomon technique is so detailed
that even the finest lines express the intensity of his stroke. He is now in Kanazawa,
engaged in creative work. At the same time, he is enthusiastically assisting in the
training of successors.
Figure 9. Shogyo Ohba, box
with design of snake-gourd in
hyomon technique, 1 981, Naoji Terai (1912- ). Makie ( Fig. 10)
1 4.6 cm x 1 5.8 cm x 26.4 cm.
Terai was born in Kanazawa, Ishikawa prefecture, and studied under Gon
The snake-gourd leaves and
flying birds are depicted by roku Matsuda and others in the Department of Urushi Arts at Tokyo National Univer
hyomon technique. The sity of Fine Arts and Music. After graduating, he studied materials for urushi, such as
snake-gourd fruit is repre
sented by kawari-nuri tech those used in kintai lacquerware, at the Institute of Chemical Research. Then he
nique, in which cracks are taught for a long time at Ishikawa Prefectural Technological High School, where he
mad� deliberately in the sur
himself had studied, as had Ohba and Matsuda. He also served as director of the
face of colored urushi.
Wajima Training Center. Besides teaching, he worked on his original makie creations
and has gained a high reputation, especially for his notable technique of rankaku.
This technique uses selected parts of quail's eggshells, which are broken into minute
fragments and then pasted over the design. The rankaku technique was formerly used
merely to depict the white sections of the design; Terai, after several improvements,
succeeded in expressing dimension and perspective solely by employing this tech
nique. He also made it possible to depict colors other than white and to exhibit grada
tion. Terai is also very skillful at making kintai substrates. Usually, in the kintai
technique, raw urushi is heated on metal, but Terai has introduced a new method of
using an aluminum substrate. He has made use of the nature of the aluminum sur
Figure 1 0. Naoji Terai, water
container in kintai technique, face, which forms an oxidized film when electrolytically treated, to absorb urushi.
1 976, height 1 6.4 cm, diame
ter 1 8.8 cm. The red blossoms
Each of the holders described here has not only contributed to the preserva
are made by eggshells pasted
on red urushi, while white tion of traditional techniques but has also striven to develop the rich expressionistic
urushi is used for the white ability needed to create modern applied arts. They have pursued artistic superiority as
blossoms.
well as technical perfection. Each holder has worked to improve his own skill but at
the same time has been enthusiastically involved in the training of successors. Today,
their contributions have brought about satisfactory results: many young talented
artists have been brought into the field of the traditional arts .
Urushi art techniques The concept of "important intangible cultural properties was designed to
I
selected as intangible assure the training of successors and the handing down of techniques to future
cultural properties generations. This section is concerned with urushi techniques considered valuable
enough to be recorded for future generations.
Yagihashi 83
Awano-shunkei. Giryo Inagawa (deceased) and Shozo Inagawa
The technique of shunkei is found in various places throughout Japan. Of
these, Awano-shunkei from Ibaragi prefecture is significant because it is the oldest
form of the technique. The wooden substrate for lacquer objects made by the elder
brother, Giryo Inagawa, and the urushi coating applied by the younger brother,
Shozo Inagawa, were both completed in the same workshop. The use of a hardwood
substrate and the application of transparent urushi without taking measures to pre
vent the penetration of the urushi into the wooden substrate are the significant
characteristics of this technique.
Training institutions Kagawa Prefectural Institute of Urushi Arts, established in 1954, and Wajima
Training Center, established in 1 966, are the principal training institutions for pro
fessional and advanced urushi arts. Fundamental training in urushi techniques is car
ried out by each urushi-producing district, and urushi techniques are taught in some
schools, such as the Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music.
Kagawa Prefectural Institute of Urushi Arts, which has a very long history,
gives practical training in the traditional techniques of Kagawa-shikki, including
kinma, zonsei, and choshitsu. The institute also teaches the skills necessary for creative
work, such as painting and the molding of forms.
Waj ima Training Center has been rebuilt recently and possesses good facili
ties. The institute offers courses in four different skills: makie, chinkin, kyushitsu, and
kiji (preparing the wooden substrate) . These courses are provided because Wajima-nuri
is outstanding for its decorative techniques, such as chinkin, and for firm and beauti
ful kyushitsu technique. Trainees who are permitted to enter this institution have
passed a national qualifying examination.
84 Yagihashi
Both training institutions accept only a limited number of trainees. Because
the courses are very advanced, graduates of these institutions now form the backbone
of Japan's urushi art world. In addition, the instructors are holders of important intan
gible cultural properties in the field of urushi art, and they give their time enthusiasti
cally to their students.
Besides the already mentioned individual holders of important intangible cul
tural properties, there are group designations. In the field of urushi art, the Associa
tion for the Preservation of Wajima-nuri (Wajima, Ishikawa prefecture) was approved
in 1977 as "a holding group of important intangible cultural properties ( Wajima
nuri) . " This association consists of about twenty leading technicians from each field
of wooden substrate making, such as rokura (lathe-turning), magemono, sashimono
(joinery), and ho-body (the production of parts such as legs); of coating, such as kyush
itsu; and of decorating, such as makie and chinkin. Since there was traditionally a divi
sion of labor in Wajima-nuri, practitioners of each process were selected to form this
important association.
Urushi art techniques Techniques for the preservation of cultural property include both the materi
selected for the als and tools used in the process of preservation and restoration, and the actual tech
presertlation of niques used to preserve and restore cultural property, such as art and craft objects or
cultural property architectural monuments like temples.
Yagihashi 85
Production and refining of Japanese urushi. Association of Japanese
Urushi for Cultural Properties
Japanese urushi is translucent and lustrous. It also produces good colors and
creates beautiful surfaces so that it is indispensable for the preservation and restora
tion of old cultural properties and the production of urushi artworks. This association
is engaged in the planting of urushi trees (Iwate prefecture) .
86 Yagihashi
Conservation of Chinese Urushi:
Methods and Difficulties
Toshie Nakajima
Tokyo National Research Institute o(Cultural Properties
have experience in the conservation of both Japanese and Chinese shikki (lac
I querware objects). This paper, however, will discuss problems I have encountered
in the conservation of Chinese shikki. Although the basic technique of producing
lacquerware objects is the same everywhere, each region has its own modified tech
nique and each urushi artist has his own technique. Conservation work, likewise, is
conducted by conservators with their own peculiar techniques. Because of such diver
sity, there are many specialists who work in ways that differ from mine.
Nakajima 87
This process consists of several repeated operations as kokuso is applied little by little.
A knife is used to shape the kokuso filling after it has dried completely. Sabi-urushi
(urushi mixed with pulverized ceramic) is applied over it, if necessary. A spatula can
be used for this purpose unless the spreading of sabi may cause problems (as when
the damaged area is adjacent to fine ground carving). In such cases, the fude-sabi tech
nique, which utilizes a makie brush to apply a soft paste made from ordinary sabi
urushi and water, should be used. Sabi-urushi, like kokuso, is shaped with a knife after
it has dried. This process is repeated if necessary.
The sabitsuke (sabi coating) is then coated with hidori-urushi, which is made
by evaporating the moisture contained in raw urushi in sunlight. This urushi
becomes transparent as time passes. After it dries it becomes mat, similar to old
urushi surfaces. I use this hidori-urushi for all my conservation work. One or two lay
ers of hidori-urushi are usually applied, followed by suri-urushi (raw urushi plus cam
phor), if necessary.
It is rather difficult to reproduce the same pattern and color tone on the re
stored area as on the original. There are arguments for and against color matching.
The recent tendency is not to match colors, in order to differentiate the restored area
from the original. On the other hand, some people believe in coordinating colors
with adjacent areas. It is not easy to coordinate the tone of the new color with the
original.
88 Nakajima
Raden (shell inlay)
Most raden found on Chinese lacquerware is made of usugai (aogai), Le., thin
shell. A problem arises if urushi is used to fill the spaces between the inlay and the
substrate since the urushi under the shell may cause it to change color. In the past, I
have tried urushi for this purpose but have come to the conclusion that a resin
adhesive is better. Due care must be taken in selecting such a conservation material,
however, so that if urushi is coated over the restored area the drying process is not
inhibited.
Further remarks There are many more pOints that need care and attention. Some of them are
listed here:
1 . When shikki (lacquerware) is to be conserved, x-radiographs are sometimes
taken in order to analyze the technique used for the substrate. Special attention must
be paid to the thickness of the shitaji (ground) and urushi layers and to the material
of the substrate in order to determine the power level needed to obtain a clear image.
The conservator and the technician must cooperate fully.
2. Careful studies should be made of the type of material used and how it
was applied.
3. In the case of jointed works in which many fine cracks are found, raw
urushi diluted with ligroin is applied, wiped off with tissue paper and allowed to dry.
This procedure is repeated until the cracks are filled. The greatest possible care should
be taken if the cracks are so deep that urushi may leak through to the other side.
4. In many cases, it is hard to detect how the urushi was processed when
Chinese shikki is coated with thick layers of tsuishu. In some extreme cases, the urushi
shitaji becomes "sandy. " Conservators must bear in mind the possibility of very dilute
urushi leaking out before it dries.
s. It often happens that damage on Chinese shikki is covered up instead of
being repaired. Shikki that has undergone this type of repair sometimes suffers prob
lems after being taken overseas.
Repairs using wax Recently I had the opportunity to conserve some forty pieces of Chinese
shikki at the request of the Linden Museum in the Federal Republic of Germany. All of
them had been repaired with wax. This method of repair seems to have been
developed in Europe. Careful observation of these repaired areas revealed that wax
injected for the purpose of repair had in turn caused further cracks; both kinds of
cracks had to be repaired. Since urushi coated over wax never dries, more time and
labor were spent on the removal of the wax than on the conservation of the actual
object. This experience shows that the selection of material for repairs should be
made carefully.
Conclusion Studies on the conservation of Chinese shikki have just started and most of
the problems are left for future consideration. I have come to the conclusion, based
on my personal experience, that minimal conservation work should be done and
only on areas that are actually damaged. It is the role of conservators to bridge the
past and the future by trying to preserve the object while leaving the original material
as far as possible untouched.
When restorers are given their aSSignments, they work upon advice from per
sons responsible for conservation and display in museums. It is my sincere hope that
those in authority will further deepen their knowledge of urushi and its techniques.
Nakajima 89
The Kyushitsu Technique Demonstrated
on a Natsume
Shogyo Ohba
Lacquer Artist and Restorer
here is great variety in the technique of kyushitsu (coating with lacquer), reflect
T ing both the individual urushi artist and the district where the shikki (lacquer
ware) is made. The model of the process given here shows four of the various
kyushitsu techniques: urushi-nuri, maki-ji, han-ji, and hankata-nuri. Until now most
models have been made on sample boards or bowls, whether by lacquerware-produc
ing districts, training or research institutions, or individual artists. However, after con
sulting Naodai Sakashita, a kyushitsu artist living in Kanazawa, we decided to make
this model using a natsume (tea-powder container), an especially difficult kyushitsu
technique. In September 1 984, we started work. Ryozo Kawakita, a woodwork artist of
Ishikawa prefecture, made the kiji (wooden substrate); Naodai Sakashita worked on
the kyushitsu, and I supervised the work. The completed natsume was presented to
Kanazawa Municipal Arts and Crafts College by Naodai Sakashita and is being kept
there as study material.
This is a brief explanation of the kyushitsu process, based on the technique I
learned from my father, from my master Gonroku Matsuda, and from colleagues, as
well as the method of application suggested by Sakashita.
1. Substrate.
A. First we cut the wood for the substrate from the trunk of a Japanese cy
press. We cut a transverse section a little thicker than the total height of the
body of the natsume and its lid (Fig. 1 ) . This Japanese cypress had at least 3 1 8
wonderfully fine annual rings . Kawakita suggested that the tree was about
four hundred years old.
B. Kidari. Several round shapes for the natsume are drawn on the wood (Fig.
2) and cut out with a belt saw (Fig. 3a).
C. Arabiki. The pieces are turned on a lathe until they are a little larger than
the final size (Fig. 3b). Usually unseasoned wood is used, since it is easier to
cut and shape.
D. Boiling the kiji (wooden substrate) . The roughly shaped natsume is boiled
in a large container for two hours, and the resin from the kiji flows out into
Ohba 91
the hot water. This facilitates the drying of the wood and helps to prevent
distortion (Fig. 3c).
E. Drying and heating (followed by at least two years' wait). Since boiling the
kiji moistens the wood, this moisture must be completely evaporated, so the
natsume is placed in a drying chamber for ten to fifteen days. Then the
roughly shaped natsume is placed in an electric oven and heated for seven to
eight hours at 80'C; if it is heated above 80'C , the wood will burn. This pre
vents distortion. The wood is charred to a depth of 2 mm from the surface
(Fig. 3d). Then the natsume is allowed to stand for at least two years; if it is
worked on the lathe immediately after heating, the speed of turning will
cause cracks. Some kiji manufacturers carve the natsume after only six
months but this will result in cracks and distortions later.
F. Nakabiki. After intermediate carving (Fig. 3e), the natsume is left to dry
naturally for at least two months.
G. Final shaping. After final lathe-working, the shape of the natsume is
completed (Figs. 3f,4).
II. Priming.
A. Kokuso-bori. When the kiji has knots, cracks, or gaps in the wood, that sec
tion is chiseled away with a small knife. Sometimes pieces of wood may be
used to fill knotholes.
B. Kijigatame. This is performed twice. First, raw urushi diluted with ligroin
(petroleum benzine) is applied to the kiji. Next, raw urushi alone is applied.
Urushi penetrates horizontally cut surfaces more easily than vertically cut
ones.
e. Kokuso-kai. This is performed twice. Small gaps resulting from kokuso-bori
are filled with kokuso using a spatula: shofu paste (4 parts)+ raw urushi (6
Figure 1 . Transverse section of parts) + kokuso-men + wood dust. Since the urushi content is high, this kokuso
Japanese cypress.
is soft. The second kokuso consists of raw urushi (10 g) + rice paste (10 g) +
Figure 2. The shape of the
natsume is marked out on kokuso-men (1 g) + wood dust (S g; Sawaguchi 1966).
the wood. D. Hikikomi-sabitsuke. A thin layer of sabi is applied over the kokuso. Sabi con
Figure 3. Stages in the produc
tion of the wooden substrate.
sists of tonoko (10 parts) + water + raw urushi (6 parts).
Figure 4. The final shaping E. Kokuso-togi. Grinding powder with water is used to rub down the sabi.
of the kiji is completed.
F. Suri-urushi. Raw urushi is applied.
G. Kami-kise. Minogami paste (10 parts) + raw urushi ( 1 0 parts) is applied.
This mixture is called handa-urushi.
H. Sabitsuke. Sabi is applied to the edges of paper covering areas of kokuso.
I. Polishing. Sandpaper is used.
]. Urushi-nuri.
1 . Coating followed by rubbing down. Kurome-urushi (dewatered urushi)
plus some carbon black is used for the first coat. Subsequent coats are
done with urushi alone. Each coat is followed by rubbing down.
2. Edge-making. Urushi has now been applied ten times and the aikuchi
(where the sections join) has become blunt. Sabi is applied once on this
part.
3. Heating. Donut-shaped rings are placed in the body and the lid of the
natsume, to prevent distortion. The rings are made of plaster (7 parts) +
cement (3 parts). After this mixture has dried completely, it is ground to
shape and placed in the body and the lid (Fig. S). Then the natsume is
placed in an electric oven and the heat is increased slowly (about 10'C
in two hours) until it reaches 70'C . After eight hours at this tempera
ture, the natsume is removed and cooled.
92 Ohba
4. Rubbing down with charcoal. The umshi-uwanuri (see II.] . I ) and the
sabi of the edge (see 11.].2) are rubbed down with charcoal.
K. Maki-ji.
1 . First maki-ji. Raw urushi (10 parts) diluted with ligroin or volatile oil
( 1 0 parts or a little more) is applied with a rabbit's hair brush. The sur
face is immediately sprinkled with jinoko, 60-80 mesh ( Wajima nihen
jinoko) .
Figure 5. Plaster rings placed
in the two parts of the 2. Fun-gatame. Raw urushi is diluted with ligroin and applied with a rab
natsume prevent distortion bit's hair brush. A mixture that easily evaporates is preferred.
during heating.
3 . Second maki-ji. Jinoko, 80-1 00 mesh (something like Wajima sanben
jinoko) is used.
4. Fun-gatame, as in 11.K.2.
5. Ji-togi. The surface is smoothed with emery. The next step is separated
into the application of urushi and the honkata-ji process; therefore maki
ji was performed twice.
6. Preparation for urushi coating.
a. First coat and rubbing down.
b. Second coat and rubbing down.
c. Third coat.
d. Edge-making and heating.
e. Rubbing down.
7. Preparation for honkata-ji.
a. Uwa-sabitsuke.
b. Heating.
c. Sabi-togi. The sabi is rubbed down with a grindstone.
d. Shitaji-gatame. Excess urushi is wiped off.
L. Hon-ji.
1 . First jitsuke. Raw urushi is placed on the work bench and mixed with
some jinoko. Heratsuke is performed. Too much jinoko makes application
difficult; not enough jinoko causes the maki-ji to shrink. The first applica
tion is 60-80 mesh (Fig. 6) .
2. Second jitsuke. 80-100 mesh.
Figure 6. Hon-ji: first jitsuke. 3. Ji-togi. The surface is rubbed down using emery with water, so that the
jinoko covers it evenly in the next process.
4. Third jitsuke. > 1 20 mesh. A fine powder is sprinkled on.
5 . Heating.
6. Shitaji-togi.
7 . Shitaji-gatame, as in 11.] . 7 .d.
M. Honkata-ji.
1 . First jitsuke. 80-100 mesh. Tonoko (10 parts) + water + jinoko (a little) +
raw urushi (6.5 parts).
Ji = jinoko (100 g) + water (40 cc) + raw urushi (SO g; Sawaguchi 1 966) .
Kiriko = jinoko (SO g) + tonoko (SO g) + water (45 cc) + raw urushi (SO g;
Sawaguchi 1 966).
2. Second jitsuke. 100- 1 20 mesh.
3. Ji-togi. This should be performed lightly.
4. Uwa-sabitsuke.
a. First sabitsuke.
b. Second sabitsuke.
c. Application of uwa-sabi (final coat).
Ohba 93
S . Shitaji-gatame.
a. Heating.
b. Sabitogi.
c. Shitaji-gatame.
Ac kno wledgments I should like to express my gratitude to the Kanazawa Municipal Arts and
Crafts College and Assistant Professor Tsuneo Ueda for lending the model of the
process and for their great cooperation. Furthermore, I wish to express my apprecia
tion to Naodai Sakashita for making the model and Ryozo Kawakita for his valuable
advice on kiji- making and the kiji process.
94 Ohba
Lacquer Examination and Treatment at the
Freer Gallery of Art: Some Case Histories
W T. Chase
Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.
T are aimed at symptoms rather than attacking the causes of deterioration. Many
of the treatments commonly employed do not adhere to modern conservation
principles and may later cause damage that is difficult to undo. In some cases, better
treatment procedures can be found by a synthesis of traditional and modern tech
niques. In this paper I shall illustrate our current thoughts on treatments for lacquer
objects with a series of case histories of obj ects treated at the Technical Laboratory of
the Freer Gallery of Art and the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery.
Similar ideas have been expressed by Anita Franke in articles on the restora
tion of a very large and important Chinese imperial throne with screen that is now in
the Museum of East Asian Art in Berlin (Franke 1 978, 1982) and recently in a pair of
articles by Nicholas Umney ( 1 987a, 1987b). Mrs . Franke used methods and materials
very similar to ours described here, and she expresses very similar reasons for their
adoption. For details of a conservation treatment of a complexity far beyond any here
described, the reader is advised to consult Mrs. Franke's papers.
The current progreSSion is away from making the object look like our concep
tion of it and towards letting as much original material as possible show, and also
towards treating the object in such a way that our treatment can be undone in the
future. The two ethical principles of conservation that emerge are reversibility and
minimum intervention.
Some procedures (cleaning, for instance) are by their very nature irreversible
and must be undertaken with great care and with as full knowledge as possible of
what their effects will be. Often a choice must be made between procedures; the more
irreversible ones should be chosen only if they offer some benefit not available in
reversible procedures.
One of the best formulations of the principle of minimum intervention was
voiced by the late Per Guldbeck, while discussing the conservation of ethnographic
objects: " Don't do anything more than you have to, consistent with not getting
fired! " Perhaps the Bauhaus dictum "less is more" is another way to phrase it. Min
imum intervention frees one from attempting to make something look like new,
when all the object really needs for its continued preservation may be the setting
down of some minor cleavage and a stable environment. The choice of treatments
should be made not only with the end result in mind but also (and more impor
tantly) the least change in the object.
Chase 95
In the specific case of the repair of Oriental lacquer objects, to apply these
two principles would mean not using urushi, a material that is totally insoluble after
it has set. In some cases (see cleaning of the inkstone box S87 .0386a-pp, below) old
urushi repairs can be removed mechanically. In others, where surface coats of urushi
have been applied to even out the appearance of the restored object, removal is
impossible. The color of the newly applied lacquer layers changes slowly with time;
many old repairs have discolored and are now impossible to remove without damage.
While discoloration can be dealt with, to some extent, by inpainting the discolored
areas (see treatment of S8 7.0373a,b, below) it would be preferable to be able to
remove the old, discolored repairs and to redo them in the correct color in a revers
ible material. Thin layers of old lacquer repairs also render it difficult (and sometimes
impossible) to assess the present condition of a lacquer object and say how much of
the original remains.
Perhaps a shining example of minimum intervention was demonstrated to
the Urushi Study Group participants by the lute preserved at the Kasuga-taisha shrine
at Nara, where the original lute had been stabilized and left in fragmentary condition
and a replica had been made by a modern lacquer master to show what the lute
looked like when new.
The application of the principles above, however, must be tempered with
j udgment, judgment seasoned with experience and common sense. In conservation
we attempt to understand and apply not only the principles of material science and
the methods of the craftsman, but also artistic and aesthetic judgment. Our results
must succeed on many levels. Perhaps this paper should be viewed not as a plea to
discard the traditional methods of lacquer repair practised so successfully by many of
our colleagues in Japan and elsewhere, but as a demonstration that other methods of
repair, using reversible materials and attempting to minimize intervention in the
work of art, can be worthy of consideration.
Some of our Japanese colleagues are also considering and using modern
reversible synthetic materials in lacquer repair; Nakasato (1986) used Paraloid B-72®
in a 5% solution in xylene to consolidate the foundation layers of urushi on two
decorated lacquer doors from Ryuzo-ji.
Effective housekeeping In the case of lacquer objects particularly, one must understand the causes of
procedures deterioration and attempt to halt the deterioration by attacking these causes. The pri
mary cause of deterioration of lacquer objects is the movement of the substrate layers,
coupled with loss of adhesion of the lacquer (and ground) layers. One of the most
memorable things said during the Urushi Study Group's trip was Mr. Nakasato's pro
nouncement that deterioration of lacquer objects is always due to problems in the
substrate or supporting layers.
For that reason, we attempt to keep our lacquer objects at a constant relative
humidity. In Washington, D.C., we have standardized on 50% relative humidity, a
level that is possible to maintain in our climate year round. Lacquer objects (and
wooden objects) often can be seen to change when brought into this climate from
the Orient. Any further cracks or cleavage from the change in climatic conditions are
repaired, using the methods outlined below, and the objects then seem to be quite
stable. As we proceed with the program of the new Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, we plan
to exercise care in lending our lacquer objects only to borrowers who can maintain
the correct level of relative humidity. Some of our lacquer objects are so fragile and
vulnerable both to climatic change and to dangers in handling that they will not be
lent at all. Conversely, it is planned to have the climatic conditions in the storage and
exhibition areas adjustable so that special conditions required by lenders can be
accommodated.
96 Chase
We are also careful to keep dust to a minimum, maintaining a good filtration
system, and keeping the lacquers in closed cabinets, or in vitrines while on display.
Gloves are used in handling the lacquer objects in the collection, to avoid finger
prints. The most effective, reversible treatments in terms of minimizing intervention
are good housekeeping procedures .
Conservation For this paper, we reviewed the examination and treatment records of some
treatments eighty-three lacquer objects in the collection of the Freer Gallery of Art and selected
specific case histories for presentation below. We have also treated a number of
objects for private owners, usually because of the extremely challenging nature of the
problems involved; we have been able to learn a great deal from these treatments of
obj ects from outside the collection. Two are included in the case histories.
We have also recently completed the examination and treatment of approxi
mately one thousand objects for the opening exhibition of the Smithsonian Institu
tion's new Arthur M. Sackler Gallery. Included among these objects were forty-three
Chinese lacquer pieces, many of which presented interesting problems in treatment.
Five case histories of objects now on exhibition in the Sackler Gallery are included
below.
Before we discuss specific case histories, let us see what generally happens in
our laboratory when a lacquer object is treated. The object has usually been brought
to the laboratory for correction of a particular problem, either in appearance or stabil
ity. Before any treatment is done, the object is given a thorough technical examina
tion, including careful examination under a low-power stereomicroscope and
examination of fluorescence in ultraviolet light. We use both a high-powered mercury
arc lamp with Wood's glass filter (longwave ultraviolet) and a strong shortwave
ultraviolet lamp. Operators always wear ultraviolet protective goggles for eye protec
tion and to eliminate the fluorescence of the cornea, which adds flare. Visual acuity
and perception of the colors of the fluorescence are much improved when wearing
ultraviolet protective goggles.
The examination usually enables one to detect any repaired or re-Iacquered
areas. In many cases, x-radiography is used as well, both to detect old repairs and to
ascertain the underlying structure of the object.
The technical examination has enabled us to formulate a treatment proposal,
which is then discussed with the curators responsible for the object. After any neces
sary changes are made, work can proceed. Curatorial involvement is particularly nec
essary in the case of lacquer objects; in addition to the initial review of the treatment
proposal, constant contact must be maintained with the curatorial staff as the work
goes forward and options in treatment thoroughly discussed when the need for
choice arises.
After a technical examination, objects are often cleaned. Cleaning is usually
done with distilled water or a weak detergent mixture and cotton swabs; in some
cases, organiC solvents such as petroleum benzine (Y.M.&P. naphtha, ligroin,
petroleum ether), toluene or xylene are used to remove greasy surface accretions.
Occasionally, the traditional Japanese polishing powder (tsunoko) is used; we have
been using the modern version of this material, made from finely-divided anatase
(titanium dioxide), with some success.
Chase 97
Consolidation of loose areas, or areas with cleavage and lifting of lacquer, is
often done with wax or wax-resin mixtures, applied hot (60-70'C) with a small tack
ing iron. The heat used in application of the wax mixture softens the lacquer and
allows it to be laid back into the correct position. In the case of small loose flakes
without distortion, plastic resins such as the polyvinyl acetates or the methacrylates
®
(Acryloid B-n , an ethyl methacrylate-methyl acrylate copolymer, or Acryloid
B-48N®, N-butyl methacrylate) are used, generally in solution in acetone or toluene,
although we have also employed these resins in emulsion form. The same materials
are used for fixing loose inlay, especially mother-of-pearl. In the case of extremely
fragile lacquer pieces, or ones where the original surface is heavily deteriorated and
loose, it seems safer to consolidate first and then to clean.
Small losses in the lacquer coat can be filled at the same time as consolida
tion, by employing some pigment of an appropriate color in the wax mixture. Larger
losses, or losses at corners or rims, are usually filled with a harder wax mixture, con
taining some carnauba wax. This mixture can be carved to shape and then polished
to the required sheen.
Rebuilding of larger losses can be done with a number of different materials;
®
we have employed the harder wax mixtures, AJK (Alvar -jute-kaolin) dough, and
Japanese paper impregnated with polyvinyl acetate, all with success.
After the piece has been cleaned and the lacquer and inlay are in stable con
dition, inpainting is done with reversible paints. We have used colors ground in dam
mar resin (Maimeri® colors), methacrylate solution colors (Magna® and our own
colors ground in Acryloid B-n®), and colors based on vinyl acetate emulsions
(Liquitex® and Winsor & Newton) . Inpainting must be done after polishing with
tsunoko, if this step is included in the procedure.
In some cases, where the lacquer has lost its sheen or gloss, an overall surface
coat may be applied. Usually this is a very thin application of the British Museum
wax formula, commercially available as Renaissance Wax� In some cases a thin coat
of synthetic resin varnish may be applied to the surface to produce a harder sheen. In
®
the past, we have used a 2% solution of polyvinyl acetal resin (Alvar ) for this pur
pose; recently we have been relying on the waxes, where necessary. Many objects
retain sufficient sheen to make a surface coating unnecessary.
All of the materials applied in these treatments are removable later, if neces
sary. In fact, in one case, we removed a wax coating that we had applied two years
before so that an object could be polished by Japanese traditional methods. Wax fills
of cracks have the additional advantage over lacquer fills that the wax can extrude
from the crack if climatic change causes the crack to close up, thus preventing further
spreading of the crack. All of these materials are also easily distinguishable from the
original lacquer, a fact that may serve later scholars well.
98 Chase
old adhesive could be seen on the surface, and were quite distracting. Some of the lac
quer flakes had been glued down in the wrong positions.
First the old adhesive was removed by soaking with cotton swabs and a 1 : 1
mixture of acetone and toluene. The adhesive turned gelatinous and could be scraped
off. Flakes which had been wrongly restored were removed and cleaned.
The cleavage was set down and loose fragments were reattached by the use of
a wax-resin mixture. The wax-resin mixture was the same as that used for oil painting
consolidation and relining, i .e., 2000 g unbleached beeswax, 1000 g dammar resin
(Singapore gum dammar in lumps preferred), 1500 g paraffin, m.p. 5 6-58'C, and
500 g gum elemi (Bradley 1 950).
To make the mixture, an aluminum pan is placed on an electric hotplate and
the dammar resin is put in and melted. The melted dammar (and the whole m ixture
until cooled) is quite flammable; care should be taken not to overheat it, and avoid
open flames in its proximity. After the dammar is melted, the beeswax is placed in
the pan and stirred as it melts. When the mixture is uniform, the paraffin and the
gum elemi are added, with stirring. Then the pan is removed from the hotplate and
the mixture strained through cheesecloth into a shallow tray made of aluminum foil.
Just after the m ixture has set, it is scored with a sharp knife into blocks of a con
venient size. It is then allowed to cool completely to room temperature; the blocks
are removed from the aluminum foil, snapped apart and stored for use.
Incidentally, the author first encountered the use of this material for laying
down cleavage in lacquer in 1965 when he was a student in the Objects Conservation
Department of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, where a large Coroman
del screen was being repaired using exactly this method.
The wax-resin mixture was applied to the lacquer with a small, electrically
heated spatula kept warm enough to thoroughly melt the mixture (60-70'C). The
lacquer and substrate were thoroughly infused with the wax-resin mixture, and the
tacking iron was held in the wax pool, not touching the lacquer, until the lacquer
softened from the heat (usually about a minute). The lacquer was tested for softness
by touching the raised portion lightly with the tacking iron or a wooden stick held in
the other hand. After softening, the lacquer could be pressed back into place. A piece
of glassine paper was then placed over the area, and the tacking iron used to iron the
area flat, extruding any extra wax around the edges. The tacking iron was then set
aside, and continuing pressure exerted on the area, either with the fingers or a cool,
smooth piece of metal, until the wax had set. The glassine paper could then be peeled
back and excess wax removed with ligroin or petroleum benzine. Usually only a pre
liminary removal of the wax was made at this stage, and work proceeded to the next
area of cleavage.
After all of the loose cleavage had been tacked down, areas of loss were filled
with a harder wax mixture: 38 g carnauba wax, 38 g paraffin wax, 10 g microcrystal
®
line wax (Bareco 1 45 ) .
This was pigmented t o suit with dry pigments; i n this case, Venetian red iron
oxide, raw umber and Mars black (ferro-ferric oxide) were used.
Any excess wax mixture remaining on the surface was removed with
petroleum benzine; Y.M.&P. naphtha was used here. The entire signboard was given a
very light coat of the wax filling mixture dissolved in Y.M.&P. naphtha, which
increased the gloss, especially on the black background, making the signboard look
more even and less weathered.
Chase 99
Figure 1 . Late Zhou dynasty
Chinese eared cup, red and
black lacquer over wood, Freer
Gallery of Art #47.24, overall
view.
1 00 Chase
3. Ming dynasty red lacquer dish (AM5G# 587.0392; Figs. 3-6)
This deeply-carved red lacquer dish, 3 cm high by 1 7. 25 cm long, has a pat
tern of peonies and leaves set against a yellow background (Lee 1 97 1 : 1 74). It was very
dirty when received by the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery for inclusion in the opening
exhibition in 1987. In addition to the general cracking and minor losses such as the
one described below, some large areas, especially the leaves, had suffered heavy losses
and had been recarved. Some loose pieces had been glued back.
The piece was cleaned with distilled water and cotton swabs. The smaller
crevices were cleaned with cotton rolled on the end of sharp bamboo skewers. The
cleaning evened out the color of the object and made the yellowish background evi
dent (Figs. 3, 4). Visible remains of old adhesive were removed with acetone.
One area of loss in the background, near the right edge of the dish about one
third of the way from the top, was large enough to be quite distracting. The loss is
about 0.5 cm x 0.8 cm in extent, and the black, rough ground layer is revealed. The
pigments of the ground were tested by x-ray diffraction and by microscopy, and
proved to be orpiment and iron oxide.
The area of loss was coated with 1 0% Acryloid B-72® in xylene as a separator.
After this had dried, the area was filled with the wax filling mixture mentioned above
(38% carnauba, 38% paraffin and 1 0% microcrystalline wax), colored with raw
sienna, Mars yellow and indian red. As can be seen in Figures 5 and 6, the compensa
tion of this area of loss has integrated the appearance of the object.
Chase 101
Figure 7. Yuan dynasty
Chinese multi-part inks tone
box in black lacquer over wood
with mother-of-pearl inlay,
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery
#S87.0386a-pp. This shows
the inner portion of the box,
assembled. Figures 8-1 1, op
posite, are details of the small
tray on the upper right, just
beneath the cover. Photograph
by Otto Nelson, courtesy of the
Sackler Foundation, New York.
102 Chase
The inner boxes have wooden inserts inside them to hold inkstones and
water droppers, which are included with the set (Figs. 8, 9). The construction of the
boxes includes a reinforcing fabric which covers the outside bottom, feet and sides of
each box and wraps part-way into the interior. A sample of the fabric was removed
from a large area of lacquer loss on the foot of one box and was identified as a bast
fiber, probably ramie. On the inside, the black lacquer has been applied directly over
the wood.
The lacquer inside the boxes was in a precarious condition, with many
<:_ �t .. ... ... losses, old repairs, and much cleavage and lifting of the lacquer (Figs. 9, 10). In some
cases, the lacquer has lifted 5-6 mm above the surface. Old repairs (the gray areas in
..":.... ..... , ;
. ,t Fig. 10) complicated the problem. The box was quite dirty on all surfaces, and many
losses were evident both in the lacquer coat and in the mother-of-pearl on the out
side. Old black lacquer repairs and reinforcements to the corners on the outside
obscured some of the design; this was especially noticeable on the vertical framing
pieces of the inlay towards the corners of the boxes, and can be seen clearly in
Figure 7 .
We made one test o f complete consolidation and filling o f all losses o n one
of the small boxes just under the top of the piece. Similar methods to those used on
the street sign panel were applied, with the difference that smaller tools had to be
made to work on these boxes. Pigmented wax-resin was used for the consolidation
' j . � : ".1
,
and elimination of cleavage. It was applied hot, lightly ironed, and the excess
removed with petroleum benzine (ligroin). Losses on the inside were filled with the
same material; removal of excess wax also removed the dirt and dust on the inside.
The result is shown in Figure 1 1 . The lacquer is now stable. Shortage of time before
Figure 8. One tray
(#S87.0386d) showing the the exhibition forced us to set down only the worst and most precarious areas, and
general condition before repair. leave the rest of the interior untouched.
Figure 9. The interior of the
The mother-of-pearl inlay on the outside was dirty and, in some cases, loose.
tray shown in Figure 8. Note
the general cracking, cleavage, Cleaning and consolidation were done under a low-power stereomicroscope. An ini
lifting and loss of lacquer. tial washing, section by section, was done with water on cotton swabs, taking care
Figure 1 0. Detail of interior of
the tray, before treatment, not to loosen any mother-of-pearl. When a loose piece of inlay was encountered, it
showing cupped cleavage ris was glued down with 10% Acryloid B- 72® in xylene. The spots of harder dirt (which
ing 5 mm above the wood sur
did not respond to washing) on the inlay were removed mechanically by cutting
face.
Figure 1 1 . The interior of the them away with a very sharp small scalpel blade, taking care not to scratch the inlay.
tray after treatment. The blade was held nearly parallel to the surface of the inlay, to lift the crusty dirt
away. Similar methods were used to reveal any inlay covered by old lacquer repairs.
Work began on this object in February, 1986 and was completed in ]uly,
1987. It took approximately six man-months full time. Difficult areas such as the
back corners of the lower box (Fig. 7), where the support is no longer in plane, were
treated with Acryloid B-72® for consolidation, followed by filling losses with a putty
made from Acryloid B-72® and dry pigment. We considered methods for compensat
ing the losses in the mother-of-pearl inlay, possibly cutting new pieces of inlay and
setting them in with synthetic resin, or filling the areas of loss to the correct plane
with wax and then inpainting the inlay with pearlescent colors. After cleaning and
consolidation, however, we decided that compensation was not necessary.
Chase 103
Case histories: Synthetic resins have been used in the case histories above for setting down
Replacement of small areas of loose pieces, notably in the multiple-piece inkstone box j ust discussed.
loose pieces with Here we show some more examples of their use.
synthetic resin
1. Yuan dynasty deeply carved red box (AMSG# S87.0390a,b; Fig. 1 2)
This box is 7.9 cm high by 1 7 .6 cm long (Lee 1 9 7 1 : 1 62; Yonemura 1987:38).
When received, it was quite dirty, with many small loose pieces in both the carved
areas and the background. The insides of both the top and the base had been
re-lacquered sometime in the past, as had the bottom of the base. The lacquer surface
was cracking and lifting throughout; many of the cracked areas seemed quite stable
and would probably stay in place during normal handling, but others were less se
cure. Some consolidation of the object was necessary to prevent further losses. Inter
estingly, on this object, the yellow color in the background seemed to have been
applied after the red layers had been carved, as it frequently overlapped onto the verti
cal walls of the red carved areas. The yellow layer was quite thin and broken up.
Small pieces of the yellow easily fell out: it required consolidation. The yellow was
identified by x-ray diffraction as orpiment.
Treatment began with cleaning with cotton-tipped bamboo skewers,
Figure 1 2. Yuan dynasty
Chinese red lacquer box, moistened with distilled water. This revealed many more loose pieces, especially in
deeply carved, Arthur M. the yellow background. The treatment continued, alternately cleaning and readher
Sackler Gal/ery #S87.0390a,b. ®
ing loose pieces with 1 0% Acryloid B-72 in acetone. For the consolidation of larger
Photograph by Otto Nelson,
courtesy of the Sackler areas, a hypodermic needle was used to inject Acryloid B-72® underneath a section of
Foundation, New York. carved lacquer. The excess was removed with acetone. Areas of loss were left unre
stored on this piece. The black areas inside the piece and on the bottom of the base
were gently polished with a soft cloth to remove fingerprints. The larger cracks in the
carved lacquer on the underside and at the rim were left untreated; the underlying
reinforcing fabric can be seen clearly through the cracks.
1 04 Chase
Figure 1 4. One piece of inlay
being fitted back into the
surface.
Figure 1 5. The sUrface after
the loose inlay has been glued
into place. The color of the
replaced piece is slightly darker
than the rest in this photo
graph, possibly due to the con
tinuous layer of adhesive be
hind it and to the direction of
the lighting for the photograph.
2. Qing dynasty octagonal black box with mother-or-pearl inlay (AMSG#
S87.0407a,b; Figs. 1 3-15)
This octagonal box, 24.9 cm high by 25 cm in diameter (Lee 1971 :209;
Yonemura 1987:47), had lost four pieces of inlay which were found in the packing sur
rounding the object after transport.
Some of the remaining inlay did not have a continuous adhesive behind it,
as could be seen when a small area of the box was wetted with petroleum benzine
(ligroin). The solvent could be seen to penetrate behind the mother-of-pearl and
darken it. However, it was decided at this stage only to readhere the loose pieces and
leave the rest of the inlay alone; a close watch will be kept on the security of the rest
of the inlay.
®
The four pieces were readhered with 10% Acryloid B-n in acetone. The
most difficult part of the job was finding out where the inlay pieces went. After glu
ing them back, their appearance was slightly darker than the rest, due to the adhesive
which holds them securely in place (Figs. 14 and 1 5).
Chase lOS
Case histories:
Structural repair with
1 . Tang dynasty, seventh-eighth century
seated Buddha (FGA #44.46; Figs. 1 8-20)
A.D., Chinese dry lacquer statue,
synthetic resin This statue is nearly lifesize (height 99.5 cm, width 72.5 cm). It depicts the
Buddha Sakyamuni, but the individual detail of the face suggests that it was actually a
portrait of a Buddhist monk; dry lacquer portraits of similar quality were often pro
1. Here the statue, shown before duced during the Tang, Liao, and Song dynasties (Freer 1 9 72 : 1 73). 1
repair, is attributed to the Song The statue is made in the classical dry lacquer technique, with layers of cloth
dynasty but the date has since
been revised to Tang in the Freer saturated with lacquer built up over a clay core which is removed after the lacquer is
Gallery of Art accession records.
dry; this can be clearly seen in Figure 19, a photograph of the interior of the base of
Table 1 the statue after treatment. Wooden reinforcements were used in the arms. The hands
Parts by and earlobes are missing.
weight
In 1959 a piece of the lower proper left front edge was pulled off the statue
Alvar 7 7 o® 1 00
polyvinyl acetal while it was on exhibition; an area about 5 cm x 5 cm was lost, and some of the
(Shawnigan Chemical)
Acetone
remaining underlayers were loosened. Polyvinyl acetate emulsion was used to impreg
1 30
Methanol 50 nate the area and to attach a piece of Japanese mulberry paper to hold the loose frag
Amyl acetate 40
Xylene 1 00 ment in place. Impregnation with PYA emulsion was repeated in 1962, but problems
Water 60 of visitors removing and disturbing the broken lower edge of the statue continued.
In November 1 969 we decided to fill in the skinned portion of the drapery
along the lower front of the statue and even out its contour so that it would look bet
ter and not present such a tempting target for visitors. Figure 18 shows its condition
at this time. First, the loose portions of the bottom and the drapery areas which were
skinned were consolidated with Vinac B-1 5 ® (polyvinyl acetate) 10% in methanol,
applied by repeated brushing. This rendered the areas quite strong. Next, any spots
which were to be filled were brushed with an emulsion made from Alvar®, the adhe
sive component of the AJK (Alvar-jute-kaolin) dough which was to be used as a filler.
The same emulsion was used to make the AJK dough (see Table 1).
The emulsion was thinned with xylene and water for the brush application.
Then the AJK dough was made by mixing jute flock (which we had cut from commer
cial j ute mailing twine) and kaolin (c.P.) into the emulsion to the right consistency, a
little stiffer than library paste. We used about two dry measures of j ute flock to one of
kaolin. A little commercial whiting (chalk) was added to the later batches, to improve
the surface finish in the solidified dough. Some of the AJK dough was kept sealed up
wet in containers, for use as a putty, but most of it was formed into slabs about 0.5
cm in thickness and allowed to set.
After drying, the slabs were cut to fit the areas being repaired and set in place
with wet AJK dough. Heat was used to bend the slabs to the correct contour before
Figure 1 B. Tang dynasty attaching them. Small spines were cut from the set dough and adhered to the surface
Chinese dry lacquer statue of
the Buddha Sakyamuni, Freer to form the backbones of the centers of the drapery folds. The repair was allowed to
Gal/ery of Art #44.46, before dry, and more AlK dough added as putty where necessary to compensate for shrink
age. A putty was made from the Alvar® emulsion and kaolin alone to fill small holes
repair. Note breaks and un
evenness along bottom edge.
Figure 1 9. The interior of the and even out the surface. The whole area was finish-sanded to smoothness with 600-
base of the dry lacquer statue grit carbide paper, being careful not to touch the original.
shown in Figure 1 B, after re
pair with AJK dough. The fab The filled areas were then inpainted with Magna® polymer paints, thinned
ric support for the dry lacquer with toluene and applied with an airbrush. The fills were inpainted a uniform
can be clearly seen.
brownish gray so as to remain easily visible. Since these polymer paints dry quite
mat, the fills were varnished with a light coat of MS2B® varnish, 25% in petroleum
benzine, to bring up the gloss.
The entire statue was then lightly cleaned and polished by rubbing with
British Museum wax (available as Renaissance Wax® from Picreator Enterprises Ltd,
London). The wax restored some sheen and life to the lower portion of the statue,
especially the drapery which had been repainted a uniform gray at some time in the
past. After completion of the restoration (Fig. 20), the statue was returned to exhibi
tion in 1969, on a new, fitted base, and remained there in a stable condition until
106 Chase
fall, 1987, when it was moved for gallery renovation.
The restoration of this object was another case where the curator (in this
instance, the late John A. Pope) and the conservator worked very closely together,
and decisions were made jointly. We had thought of attempting to complete the ear
lobes and possibly the hands; I made a trip to the Metropolitan Museum, New York,
in 1968 to measure and draw the extant earlobes on a similar sculpture. We decided
that the repair to the bottom edge should be done first, and then we would decide
whether any more compensation of missing areas would be done. We all felt that the
statue looked much improved after the treatment described above and no more
compensation should be attempted.
Along with the conservation treatment of the piece, some of the dull blue
paint from the chest area was identified by R.]. Gettens as being azurite, and possibly
original. This paint was left intact in our treatment. Also, a fragment of wood was
removed from the inner end of the wooden core of the proper left arm for carbon- 14
Figure 20. The dry lacquer dating to determine the age of the sculpture. The wood appeared to Gettens to be
statue shown in Figure 18, Cryptomeria, a tree that grows to some age in the Orient. The carbon- 14 date was
after repair.
reported as A.D. 5 10, somewhat earlier than the seventh eighth century date now
given (Long 1965). This could be either because the wood came from the inner rings
of a large tree or because of re-use of an old piece of wood. At least the possible Tang
date has not been disproved.
Chase 107
3. Chinese Zhou dynasty stem cup (FGA #49. 1; Figs. 23 and 24)
This cup, from the fifth-fourth century B.C., is also reported to have been
found at Changsha (Freer 1972( 1 12) : 1 77; Lawton 1982(134): 181). It is 23 .5 cm high
and 1 7 . 9 cm wide. While the cup was in remarkably good condition, the shrinkage of
the wood support had caused two problems.
First, the stem had become somewhat smaller than the base. Some unlac
quered wood showed on the upper surface of the base where the cone-shaped base
meets the stem, and the joint was loose and wobbly. The joint was secured by the
injection of polyvinyl acetate emulsion Oade 403 ®), thinned to a thick, creamy con
sistency with water. The object was allowed to set under its own weight; after a few
minutes the excess emulsion which had extruded from the joint was removed with
swabs moistened with distilled water. The cup was then allowed to set, undisturbed,
for two hours. The areas of exposed wood and a few small losses around the outer
edges of the base and the top were then inpainted with Magna® polymer colors
thinned with toluene; a little Acryloid B-72® was added to the paint to increase its
gloss so that it matched the original lacquer.
The second problem caused by wood shrinkage could be seen inside the bowl
of the cup, where the horizontally-oriented wood of the bowl had shrunk with age,
while the vertically-oriented wood of the stem had not, leaving an area at the center
of the dragon raised above the rest of the surface. The lacquer in this area was stable;
no loose cleavage was detected. A repair to make the lacquer at the center go back
into the same plane as the lacquer in the rest of the bowl would have necessitated
Figure 23. Late Zhou Chinese
eared cup on stand, red and removing the lacquer and cutting down the wood of the stem, which would have
black lacquer, Freer Gal/ery of been too drastic a treatment. We decided to leave this area alone for the present.
Art #49. 1 .
Figure 24. The interior of the
eared cup shown in Figure 23, 4. Chinese lacquered ewer, late Warring States-early Han periods, third
showing damage due to wood
century B.G. (FGA #49.22; Figs. 25-27) .
shrinkage at the center of the
bowl. This lacquer ewer is also supposed to have come from Changsha, according
to a letter from ].H. Cox, dated 1 6 November 1949:
108 Chase
Figure 26. Detail of the handle
attachment in the top spout
area, from the ewer shown in
Figure 25.
Lead inlay prob lem Lead inlays in Japanese lacquers have posed a continuing problem in our
museum, and it is a problem that we should like to investigate more deeply. In a num
ber of cases, white, powdery corrosion has formed on the surface of inlays while the
objects were on display; one object had been put into a newly-constructed exhibition
case, the subfloor of which was constructed of plywood. Since the predominant corro
sion product on the surface was lead formate, we assume that the urea-formaldehyde
glue in the plywood had emitted formaldehyde which transformed to formic acid and
attacked the lead. Lead formate is soluble in hot water, so the formate could be
removed from the surface of the lead. Underneath the spots of lead formate, the lead
had pitted deeply; the pitting was compensated with wax (the normal filling mixture)
darkened with graphite and thinned with petroleum benzine (ligroin). Within the
pits, and on one other box, hydrocerussite was also detected. This may be due to
transformation of the lead formate to lead carbonate by atmospheric carbon dioxide,
and the exact mechanisms of corrosion of these lead inlays would be a good subject
for future study. It is clear, however, that lacquer boxes with lead inlay should be kept
in a suitable environment free of formates.
Chase 109
Case histories: 1. Japanese Tokugawa lacquer chest, Namban style, Momoyama-Edo
Cleaning and period, early seventeenth century (FGA #79.50; Figs. 28-29)
comp ensation This chest, of imposing size (53.3 cm high, 1 06.3 cm long and 45.3 cm
wide), is reputed to have been sent as a gift from the second Tokugawa Shogun to
Urban VIII, the Barberini Pope (Christie, Manson, and Woods 1 9 76). Its treatment
was very long and involved, and only the cleaning and compensation will be men
tioned here. The surface of the outside of the chest when received looked quite yel
low (Fig. 28). Longwave ultraviolet fluorescence showed a light yellow fluorescence
on all the outer surfaces. This led us to suspect that the chest had been varnished,
and a sample of the surface coating which was submitted to the Smithsonian's Con
servation-Analytical Laboratory showed that the outer coating was mainly shellac.
The shellac was removed by exposing it to alcohol compresses and then
swabbing off the soft, gelled material with cotton swabs. Some spots of repaint were
removed with acetone. The cleaning considerably brightened the chest, especially the
mother-of-pearl (Fig. 29).
After cleaning, losses were filled with the usual wax filler mixture and pig
ments. Losses in the mother-of-pearl were filled with unpigmented wax, which
matches the mother-of-pearl remarkably well. As a final treatment, the chest was
Figure 28. Tokugawa period
Japanese black lacquer chest waxed with Renaissance Wax® (British Museum wax mixture) to restore its gloss.
with gold paint and mother-of After many months of work, the overall appearance of the chest was much improved.
pearl inlay, Freer Gallery of
Art #79.50, showing the condi
tion upon receipt, with two
baroque trestle supports.
1 10 Chase
2. Chinese Song dynasty thirteenth century basketwork sacrifidal box
(AMSG# S87.0373a,b; Figs. 30-33)
An oblong lidded box with sides made of finely-woven basketry, this object
stands 1 8 . 7 cm high. Other dimensions are: length 44.9 cm, width 1 9 . 7 cm (Lee
1 9 7 1 : 101; Yonemura 1987:44-45). Losses in the lacquered surface had been filled
with pigmented urushi during previous treatments; the old repairs had changed color
and were quite visible (Fig. 32). The box was cleaned by our usual methods (Figs. 30
and 3 1 ) . After cleaning, the old repairs were inpainted with acrylic polymer paints
(Liquitex®), with gloss medium added to enhance the sheen. Inpainting made an
especially dramatic difference at the corners, as can be seen in Figures 32 and 3 3 . This
inpainting can be easily removed with solvents, should the need arise.
Chase 111
Acknowledgmen ts Thanks are due to past and present members of the staff of the Freer Gallery
of Art, the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, and the Sackler Foundation. The past Directors,
John A. Pope, Harold P. Stern, and Thomas Lawton were always encouraging in find
ing new and improved methods of treatment. Milo Beach, Acting Director of the
Freer and Sackler Galleries, agreed to the publication of treatments of the objects
under his care. Ann Yonemura, Assistant Curator of Japanese Art, assisted with help
ful suggestions, and Takashi Sugiura, former Head of our Oriental Paintings Conserva
tion StudiO, helped in demonstrating Oriental lacquer restoration techniques.
Particular credit goes to the staff members of our Technical Laboratory. The
late R.J. Gettens helped and encouraged me with the treatment of many of the pieces,
notably 44-46; some of the treatment of this object (and a number of the other
objects represented here) was done earlier by Elisabeth FitzHugh . Ilona V. Bene
treated many of the pieces described here, including V37. 72, 04 .348, 1 6. 4 1 8, and
79. 50, the Namban chest, with which John Winter and Lynda Zycherman were also
very involved. Jane Norman treated Sackler Gallery objects S8 7.0392, S8 7.03 73a and
b, and S87.0390a and b; Jane, Paul Jett, Stephen Koob, and I all worked on the ink
stone box S87 .0386a-pp. The skilled work, helpful advice, and excellent laboratory
notes of all of them have made this paper possible.
1950 The Treatment of Pictures. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Art Technology Press. Appendix C, no.
1 20. 1 0, Wax-resin adhesive.
Christie, Manson, and Woods
1976 Japanese Ceramics, Lacquers, Bronzes and Other Metalwork. Sale catalogue, sale of Monday 22
November 1 976:24, color illustration, and plate 23.
Franke, Anita
1 978 "The use of beeswax and resin in the restoration of East Asian lacquer work." In Conservation of
Wood in Painting and the Decorative Arts. N.S. Brommelle, Anne Moncrieff, and Perry Smith (eds).
London: IIC, pp. 45-47
1982 "Restaurierungsbericht. " In Beatrix von Rague, Ein chinesischer Kaiserthron: Die Pfirsche der
Uns terblichkeit, Bilderheft der Staatlichen Museen Preussischer Kulturbesitz, Berlin, Heft 40/41 :
8 1 -87.
Freer Gallery of Art
1972 The Freer Gallery ofArt, I: China. Kodansha Ltd, Tokyo, Japan.
Lawton, Thomas
1982 Chinese Art of the Warring States Period, Change and Continuity 480-222 B.C. Freer Gallery of Art
and Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C.
Lee, Yu-kuan
Long, Austin
1965 "Smithsonian Institution radiocarbon measurements II." Radiocarbon 7: 253 (date SI- I 1 3).
Nakasato, Toshikatsu
1986 " Yamaguchiken Ryuzo-ji zo Chinkin Shitteno-zo zu Tobira no Hozon Shufuku" (Conservation
Treatment of chinkin shitteno-zo doors, property of Ryuzo-ji, Yamaguchi Prefecture." Hozon
Kagaku (Science for Conservation) 25: 63-82.
Umney, Nicholas
1 979 Japanese Lacquer. Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.
1987 "The Art of Chinese Lacquer." Asian Art 1, 1 : 30-49.
112 Chase
Some Thoughts about Conserving Urushi
Art Objects in Japan, and an Example of
Conservation Work
Kenichi Kitamura
Lacquer Artist and Restorer
he conservation of urushi art objects in Japan has two distinctive aspects. The
T first is that most urushi treasures have been restored, not by those who are spe
cialists in conservation, but by those who are actually engaged in producing
lacquerware using traditional techniques inherited from their masters . The second
aspect is that experience acquired during the conservation of urushi art objects has
revealed a great deal about both the techniques and the modes of artistic expression
used in old urushi art objects.
In Japan today, outstanding urushi objects are designated cultural properties
under the Cultural Properties Preservation Law. Conservation work is conducted
under the guidance of the Agency for Cultural Affairs as part of a national program.
As in the past, those who create urushi art objects are engaged in conservation. We
have inherited traditions based on the foundations laid by our ancestors, but we must
also try to develop new techniques for conservation by applying our knowledge of
contemporary science.
This paper discusses problems that I have encountered and their solutions,
together with a specific example from my experience.
Probl ems and Urushi objects are often so aged that they are on the verge of collapse. There
solutions fore, a conservator is like a medical doctor who diagnoses his patient: He must judge
Kitamura 1 13
which parts should be treated and which should be left alone as well as select a
method of treatment. Suppose an urushi object has a few small dents on its surface.
A conservator must deCide whether these dents were caused by contact with other
objects, or whether they are traces of raden (shell inlay) or gold or silver heidatsu
(applied metal foil) patterns that have peeled off. If the latter is the case, the dents
should not be treated as scars and filled in, but should be left as they are.
In order to make proper j udgments under such circumstances, a conservator
needs to be completely knowledgeable about changes in modes of expression and
techniques. Also, he should have a mastery not only of the techniques of conserva
tion, but also of producing replicas based on academic study.
Prior to any conservation treatment, the condition of the object should be
meticulously recorded in order to prevent possible misjudgments in future genera
tions. During conservation, the construction of the substrate and the condition of the
urushi-shitaji (ground) may be revealed in the damaged areas. Since these serve as
important evidence for studying the techniques and materials of the period in which
the object was made, the conservator should try to record the findings accurately and
preserve undamaged areas whenever possible.
Optical analyses using x-rays, ultraviolet, etc., are essential when there is a
need to investigate internal damage and materials that cannot be detected by the eye
alone.
Occasionally, the object is restored to its original state, for example, when
dirt on the surface seems likely to accelerate deterioration, or when the original
urushi is obscured by past conservation work, provided that such measures are in the
best interest of the object. Even if some measures seem harmless, it is necessary to ask
for approval because the work may be interpreted as changing the current status of
the object.
Figure 1 . Makie koto (zither), One of the most impressive lacquerware objects I have conserved is a makie
Heian period, eleventh century. koto (zither), a National Treasure kept at Kasuga Taisha (Fig. 1 ) .
First, I moistened the surface using a soft brush dipped in lukewarm water.
Then, I used soft Japanese tissue to remove the moisture by pressing gently. By clean
ing in this way, designs that were dim became clearer. As a result, it became easier to
study the makie technique and to determine the types of makie-fun (metal powders)
that had been used. Unusually for this period, in addition to gold, blue-gold, and
silver powders, copper powder had been used.
Figure 2. Shippi (hide) box
from the Shosoin. When objects are structurally unstable, lost parts should be replaced only
Figure 3. The shippi box in after consulting specialists. New replacement parts must be recorded or have some
Figure 2, before conservation.
Nearly half the lid has been engraved mark to identify them. To make a shippi (hide) box in the Shosoin (Fig. 2),
lost. raw leather was spread over the wooden form, then hardened by applying urushi, and
Figure 4. The shippi box in
removed from the form to make the substrate. As Figure 3 shows, nearly half the lid
Figure 2 after restoration using
the kanshitsu (dry lacquer) was lost before conservation. The ideal way to replace the lost parts would be to use
technique. the same material as in the original. But raw leather easily loses its shape and is
highly unstable, so I decided to apply the kanshitsu technique, that is, linen cloth
layered with nori-urushi (rice-paste and urushi), to repair this shippi (Fig. 4).
1 14 Kitamura
Urushi is not the only material used to make lacquer art objects. A variety of
materials, such as dyed cloth and metal clasps, and many techniques are combined to
make the object. This is why it requires careful attention to avoid changing the condi
tion of an object by applying urushi to parts that need not be touched. Take, for
example, a makie tebako (cosmetic box) equipped with uchibari (decorative cloth
applied inside the box) and himokanagu (metal fittings for cords). The uchibari must
be removed before conservation, in cooperation with specialists, in order to prevent it
being stained by excess urushi. When the conservation work is over, the uchibari can
be replaced in its original position with urauchi (washi paper applied to the back of
the cloth for reinforcement). Himokanagu should also be removed when possible and
put back after conservation. If they are not removable, they should be covered with
paper to keep them free from excess urushi. Conservators should also be extremely
careful when dealing with mitsudae (a kind of oil painting) or kingin deie (painting
with fine silver and gold powder mixed with animal glue), which tend to darken if
they come into contact with urushi.
It is most desirable to use high quality Japanese urushi for the restoration of
lacquer art objects. But if the shitaji (ground) is doroji-an urushi substitute made of
nikawa (animal glue) mixed with gofun (powdered shells) and tonoko (clay)-it is often
difficult to restore using only urushi. It is also difficult to restore solely with urushi if
the entire surface of the object is colored with a mixture of nikawa and pigment. In
these cases, use of other approved materials should be considered with the guidance
of conservation scientists.
With the basic principle of maintaining the present condition, it is custo
mary not to do any repair even if there is damage to the decoration. If a case arises,
however, in which repair is needed to balance the overall structure, the first step is to
seek the approval of specialists. Then a study of the original technique and material
can be started to determine which techniques and materials will be most similar to
the original.
According to this principle, no "antiquing" or artificial craque/ure should be
added to urushi objects. If the restored parts do not match the original and need
"antiquing" for purposes of continuity, this should be limited to those areas where it
is absolutely necessary. In addition, only material that can be removed later should be
used.
Some urushi objects repaired in the past have had "antiquing" or craque/ure
added artificially. Those with urushi koshoku (" old color") and danmon (cracking) over
the entire surface have lost their original appearance, because the painted urushi can
not be removed. Professional conservators should refrain from such repairs. Black
urushi may turn brown as time elapses, so attention must be paid to the color of the
repaired area. Once-matched color may become unmatched as the original color ages.
A similar problem exists with shu-urushi (urushi colored with cinnabar) and other
colored urushi. Since in-depth scientific studies of color changes have not yet been
made, future research and study are awaited.
These thoughts are based on my personal experience and that of my seniors.
Urushi art objects which require conservation show various kinds of damage and
there is no single pattern of conservation. A conservator is always faced with contra
dictory problems. He must try to find the most suitable solutions and make decisions.
He should never let dogmatism based only on experience dictate conservation . He
must face the object with a modest attitude of exploration, and try to improve his
own technique.
An example of Since 1982, I have conserved nineteen urushi art objects, made between the
conservation Sengoku period Oapan) and the Tang dynasty (China), which are kept at the Linden
Museum in Stuttgart, West Germany. I went to the museum to meet Dr. Klaus J .
Kitamura 115
Brandt, head of the Oriental Department and in charge of conservation. We took pic
tures of the objects to be conserved, recorded their size and condition, and discussed
conservation policy. After returning to Japan, I submitted a plan for the method, dura
tion, place, and cost of conservation. I signed an agreement and started work on the
objects. The conservation of one object, the lid of a heidatsu gosu (round box) is
described here in detail (Fig. 5).
The conservation policy agreed upon was as follows:
• The present condition should be maintained by using urushi. Acrylic resin
®
(Acryloid B-72®jParaloid B-72 ) can be considered for use only on the
vermilion back of the lid.
• The exposed substrate can be left as it is as long as it does not cause any
problem from the pOint of view of conservation.
• Fallen flakes should be returned to their original positions as long as these
can be identified. Otherwise they should be put aside and kept as they are.
• Many points of similarity were found with four pieces of silver heidatsu gosu
owned by the Shosoin (Fig. 6). The gosu owned by the Linden Museum can
•
be restored to its original state using the Shosoin gosu as reference.
Figure S. The lid of the
heidatsu gosu (round box). • The conservation process will be recorded.
• Conserved objects will be kept in double boxes made of paulownia wood.
The condition before conservation was recorded. The box is 10 cm in
diameter and 1 . 6 cm high. The substrate is a straight-grained round plate made of
maple wood, about 2 mm thick, around which 1 . 5 mm strips of the same material
are wound approximately seven times (Figs. 8,9). It is not clear whether this ring is
made of seven concentric circles or one long strip wound in a coil. It has not been de
termined, either, if a rokuro (wheel) was used for winding. The height of the lid can be
measured, although only a small part of the side remains. Both the substrate and the
urushi layers are so deteriorated that it is almost impossible to handle them. The struc
ture of the substrate can be observed because the urushi layers have peeled off from
the back of the lid.
The kyushitsu (layer sequence) consists of fine linen cloth (fifteen threads per
z
cm ) applied over the whole surface along the wood grain (Fig. 10). Over the thin
shitaji (ground), black urushi is applied; the uwanuri (top coating) is suki-urushi (trans
parent urushi). The back of the lid consists of linen cloth, priming, black urushi, and
vermilion nikawa (animal glue). The upper face of the lid is silver heidatsu (0.25 mm
thick silver plate) with a design of small birds flying among trees and flowers (Fig.
1 1) . At the center, three baby birds stretch their heads out of a nest, waiting for their
parents to bring food. The fine lines of the picture suggest the skillful use of tools.
The design is not made from a single sheet: silver sheets were joined together for the
flower branches. Around the circumference of the lid a design called renjumon (a
chain of round beads) is found. The sides of the lid have six-petaled flowers placed at
regular intervals. In both cases, a semicircular chisel is believed to have been used to
cut the designs in the silver plates . The worked silver sheets are a little higher than
the surface of the surrounding urushi and there is no trace of the urushi surface
having been polished with charcoal. These two facts suggest that the urushi over the
silver sheet was carefully peeled off after the final coating. Parts of the silver sheets
used for the heidatsu have become displaced because of the deformation of the sub
strate. Other parts have been lost together with the ground. Even the remaining parts
are in danger of peeling off in the near future.
The structure of the substrate is the same as that of the silver heidatsu gosu in
the Shosoin, which was x-rayed by Mr. Hoko Kimura (see Fig. 7). The design is also
Similar; the only difference is that this box is slightly smaller. The body of this
116 Kitamura
Figure 6. One offour silver
heidatsu gosu in the Shosoin.
Figure 7. X-radiograph of the
heidatsu gosu in the Shosoin.
heidatsu gosu has been lost, but assuming that it was similar to the Shosoin gosu, it
would have had the structure of an inro lid. The sides of the lost body would probably
have had six-petaled flowers of silver heidatsu like those on the side of the lid.
Prior to conservation work, photographs were taken of the entire lid and of
individual details, in order to record the state of damage. X-rays were also taken for
comparison with the Shosoin treasures (Fig. 1 3) .
Conservation work sometimes includes fumigation with methyl bromide gas.
In this case this process was omitted since there was no trace of insect damage.
Consolidation by injecting urushi from outside was not enough because of
the deterioration of both the substrate and the urushi layer. In any case, use of urushi
proved to be impossible because the entire back of the lid was painted in vermilion
animal glue. After much thought, I attempted to remove the urushi layer from the
substrate. This was done successfully by carefully using a thin, stainless steel, dental
spatula (Fig. 1 2) . The pieces of the urushi layer were placed temporarily on a distribu
tion diagram made previously, in order to prevent any mistake in repositioning them
at a later stage of conservation.
The substrate of the lid and the back of the urushi layer that had been
removed were then impregnated with urushi. Impregnation was done in several steps,
starting with a 30% solution and gradually increasing the concentration. In order to
.
f--- ---
100----
1 '70 08 ---- --"i ..!
I
�
Kitamura 117
Figure 9. The substrate of the
replica of the heidatsu gosu
showing the method of
construction.
Figure 1 0. A fine linen cloth is
applied along the grain of the
wood.
1 18 Kitamura
Figure 13. X-radiograph of
the lid of the heidatsu gosu
from the Linden Museum.
Kitamura 1 19
prevent warping of the urushi layers as they hardened, they were kept under pressure.
Raw urushi was injected into the cracks on the face of the lid.
Mugi-urushi (urushi with adhesive properties made of wheat, rice paste, water,
and raw urushi) was used to adhere the urushi layer in its original position. Kakusa
(made of mugi-umshi mixed with burnt linen fiber and wood powder) was used to fill
holes in the substrate and large cracks, using a bamboo or metal spatula; the kakusa
surface was smoothed with a graver.
Kirika, made of jinaka, tanaka, water, and raw urushi, was applied over the
kakusa with a spatula. Then the surface was polished, varying the size of stone accord
ing to the areas of jitsuke, and the kirika was "set" by impregnation with raw urushi.
Sabitsuke (sabi coating) was done by applying a mixture of tanaka and water
to the kirika base with a spatula. Sabitagi (polishing of the surface) was carried out
using a stone which has a slightly coarser grain than that used for kirika. Sabidame
(fixing) was done by impregnation with raw urushi.
Depending on the size and position of the area to be painted, either a makie
fude or a jinuri brush was used to apply black urushi to form a base coat. The shitanuri
(base coat) was polished using tagizumi (charcoal) and water. Intermediate coating
(nakanuri) was applied like the base coat, and polished in the same way. Suki-umshi
(transparent urushi) was applied with an uwanuri brush as a top coat. The vermilion
areas on the back of the lid were consolidated by applying a solution of acrylic resin
(Acryloid B-72®/Paraloid B-72®).
The entire tone was adjusted. Because urushi newly applied on restored areas
often stands out, it needs to be toned down for balance. A vermilion color similar to
the original was applied over the cracks on the back of the lid.
Photographs were taken and records were made of the completely conserved
object (Fig. 1 4) . Diagrams were drawn to indicate restored areas (Fig. 1 6) .
In order to prevent sudden changes i n the environment, I made special
paulownia wood boxes for storage. It is important to avoid low relative humidity.
I also made a complete replica of the original box, based on the information
gained about the substrate and techniques of manufacture, which was sent to the
museum with the restored object (Fig. 1 5) .
Conclusion This was the first time that I had been involved i n a n international conserva
tion project. Sometimes I was troubled by the unfamiliar paperwork and the need to
balance different opinions which were rooted in different cultures and traditions.
Still, the conservation work was completed successfully thanks to Dr. Klaus ]. Brandt,
Professor Motoo Yoshimura of Kansei Gakuin University who introduced this project
to me, Ms. Toshie Nakajima who did the conservation work on objects after the Meiji
period, and many other supporters.
1 20 Kitamura
Apprenticeship and Conservation
Susanne Barchalia
The Royal Danish National Museum
A quite normal for a young person to make a contract with an older master in
order to learn the particulars of a specific trade. I myself served an apprentice
ship in a silversmith's workshop, so the idea of submission to a craft training was not
entirely foreign to me. After four years of training as a silversmith, I was accepted by
the Conservation School of The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, where I trained
as a conservator.
I wanted to become an apprentice again to specialize in the conservation of
lacquer. The National Museum of Denmark's Department of Ethnography has a large
collection of east Asian lacquer. Some of these objects were in a very poor state of pre
servation, so the Museum wanted a conservator to have an advanced education in
Japan and then return to take care of the treatment of these objects.
As a result of the introductions of various people, a Japanese master lacquerer
invited me to stay and work for a year at his workshop in the northern part of Kyoto
(Fig. 1 ) . To be taught the traditional skills of a Japanese lacquer workshop, it is very
important to have recommendations from people whom the master trusts .
Barchalia 121
In Japan it takes eight to ten years of apprenticeship to attain the level of a
traditional master artisan. A Japanese master willing to pass on his knowledge will
not accept a student whose mind is prejudiced. The open minded ness shown by the
master demands a similar openness from the student, who must be willing to receive
the teachings of the master without reservation.
It is usually very difficult for a Westerner to understand this total submission
because we are used to learning from a critical dialogue between equals, whereas in
Japan one looks, listens, and learns. So, obviously, one has to change one's behavior
totally and try to achieve the reticence expected if one wishes to acquire any knowl
edge from a Japanese master.
My purpose was not to learn lacquer technique from the beginning, but to
be taught the basic principles of lacquering in order to apply them in my daily work
as a conservator. At the workshop I was introduced to techniques that had been devel
oped by the masters over the past seven generations.
Almost all craft traditions in the world are based on knowledge that is crucial
in making the works of a particular workshop a specialty. Likewise, all crafts have
their own technical language, which is almost impossible to learn except through
practical work. Getting to know this language is an important part of the education;
it works as a kind of code or guarantee between people of the same trade.
1 22 Barchalia
The process of The lacquer master had already planned a course of practical work for me
lacquering before I arrived. His wood-turner had prepared a number of basic objects in Japanese
cypress (hinoki) on which I was able to practice, in a simplified manner, the tradi
tional lacquer process .
The process of lacquering can be divided into two phases: the treatment of
the basic shape and the coating.
Before the grounding begins, one has to produce wood spatulas and polish
ing stones suited to the basic shape. The spatulas are cut with a knife from pieces of
hinoki. Pumice stone is used for polishing.
An illustration of the lacquering process I practiced on rectangular pieces of
hinoki is shown in Figure 2. The same process is used for objects of very different
appearance and size, such as boxes, bowls, trays, and furniture.
Decoration
A Japanese lacquer workshop is usually divided into two parts: one for the
process of lacquering and one in which the work of decoration is done. Here the lac
quer master's wife instructed me in the three most common methods of decoration:
flat decoration (hiramakie), relief decoration (takamakie), and decoration below the sur
face (togidashimakie) . Makie means "sprinkled picture. " Metal powder is sprinkled
through a bamboo straw onto a wet lacquer base. The metal powders used for makie
are usually gold and silver, which are sold in many grades and shades of color (blue,
yellow, red, black, etc.).
I finished my stay at the workshop by practicing my newly learned skills on
twenty-five serving trays.
The purpose of the Part of the collection of Japanese lacquerware at the National Museum of
lacquer workshop Denmark can be traced back to the establishment of the Royal Cabinet of Curiosities
(Det Kongelige Kunstkammer), which was organized in 1 650 by King Frederick III.
These approximately one hundred objects are now the nucleus of a fairly large ethno
graphical collection. Today the Japanese collection contains approximately 3500
objects, most of which can be traced back to the nineteenth and first part of the twen
tieth centuries. The objects are mostly works made for export (Fig. 3).
Barchalia 123
Figure 3. A picnic set from the
Danish National Museum (no.
EAC 1 33), late seventeenth or
early eighteenth century.
Establishing the It has always been a basic principle at the National Museum of Denmark to
lacquer workshop treat and preserve objects in accordance with their original materials and their nature.
The museum made premises available to me in Brede, just outside Copenhagen,
where I established a workshop according to European traditions, but using materials
imported from Japan.
Building up a lacquer workshop does not require vast financial resources . The
difficulties were centered on creating a workshop that would be able to cope with any
task, at any time, of whatever character. In Japan, the changing climate of the seasons
is used as an important part of the lacquering process. In the dry winter season the
process of grounding is done, while the last layers of lacquer are applied during the
humid periods. Naturally, such considerations are not possible in a museum context,
where exhibitions and loans to other museums are often arranged at very short notice.
The workshop is equipped with a humidifier so that the climate can always
be adjusted according to the steps in the process of treating the objects. In order to
dry, the lacquer has to go through a chemical process: hardening. Urushiol, which is
the main constituent of lacquer, absorbs oxygen when changing from a fluid to a
solid state. This process must be even and slow and take place in a humid atmosphere.
1 24 Barchalia
For this purpose a humidity chamber is used, which is a wooden box with a
pair of detachable sliding doors. The best type of wood for such a humidity chamber
is hinoki, Japanese cypress, because this type of wood both absorbs and emits mois
ture, without changing its characteristics. This is necessary for the hardening process.
Hinoki is very expensive and can be difficult to find in Europe; a conifer, pine, or
spruce, may be used as a substitute. The humidity chamber has to be wetted regularly
with water in order to maintain the relative humidity permanently above 90%. The
climate outside determines how many times the cabinet has to be moistened. The
humidifier is therefore a very useful piece of equipment during dry periods.
The ideal surrounding is a south-facing room with good light and a wood
floor, which can help to maintain the correct humidity. The environment should be
free from dirt and dust.
The materials and tools used in the lacquering process are not available in
Europe. As these things cannot be ordered through any stores, contacts with Japanese
suppliers are very important. Contacts with suppliers of top-grade products are usu
ally made through the master.
Some of the tools I use I make myself, for example, the wood spatulas for the
grounding processes. The brushes for laying down paint flakes, lacquering, and deco
ration should be very robust and made of hair, either rat, rabbit, or human. In Japan
there are workshops that specialize in making brushes for various crafts.
Concurrent with the establishment of the lacquer workshop, the exhibition
and storage conditions for the Museum's collection were improved. Each exhibition
case is equipped with a humidifier and a thermohygrograph; the relative humidity is
controlled at 5 5-60% and the fluorescent lighting does not exceed 1 50 lux. Objects
hitherto stored in antiquated conditions are now in a new, air-conditioned, dark
storeroom.
A treatment process in In order to gain some knowledge of conservation and restoration methods
the Japanese tradition relating to Japanese lacquer, I visited several museum workshops in Japan. I spent the
most time at the National Museum in Tokyo where the head conservator and lacquer
master explained the basic principles for treating Japanese lacquers, such as fixing
loose layers, mixing filling material and grounding, surface cleaning methods, and
treatment of damaged surfaces. I have chosen to describe a standard treatment
process for a Japanese lacquer object that is representative of the type of problems I
encounter.
1 . The object is documented by means of photographs, x-radiography, and
infrared photography.
2. If pOSSible, samples are taken for cross sections to permit examination of
the ground and lacquer layers.
3 . Flaking in the color layer is fixed with a mixture of kiurushi (unrefined lac
quer) and ligroin (petroleum benzine, BP 80-1 1O°C). The process of readhering flakes
begins with a weak solution of kiurushi in ligroin and finishes with 1 00% kiurushi.
After each operation the object is put into a humidity chamber for between one and
three days.
4. Small cracks, insect attack and other typical damage to the wood base are
improved with kokuso, which is a mixture of urushi, rice paste, cotton fibers, flour,
and sawdust. A larger crack can, depending on the stability of the object, be filled
with new wood, strengthened with paper or cloth, and then built up with the same
number of ground and lacquer layers as the original.
Barchalia 125
s. The ground layers, which normally consist of urushi, clay, and water, can
be porous and powdery. This may be due to insufficient urushi or to the use of animal
(pig's) blood as a substitute for urushi. This condition can be stabilized with kiurushi
and ligroin.
6. When flakes in the ground and color layers have been readhered, missing
areas can be built up with the same layers of grounding as in the original, rubbing
down between layers. The ground material, sabi, consists of clay (for example,
ceramic clay fired at 800·C), urushi, and water. Each ground layer must dry for about
twenty-four hours at room temperature, and then be polished with pumice and water.
7. To seal the surface, urushi is rubbed in .
8. After the grounding process is completed the lacquer used can have many
different qualities and colors. The black lacquer (raira) that I import is colored with
iron oxide powder (Fe304). Red lacquer can be bought in many shades. I color raw lac
quer myself with cinnabar because the lacquer often changes color during hardening,
becoming darker. This can be corrected if one mixes the materials oneself.
9. When the lacquer layer has hardened in the humidity chamber (after eight
to ten hours), it is polished with charcoal and water. I use charcoal from hinoki. The
annual rings in the wood should be as close together as possible; if the gap between
the rings is too large, the result is a porous material that can cause "stripes" in the
polishing.
10. Through the years, many lacquer surfaces have lost the depth and luster
that are so characteristic of Japanese lacquerwork. In the past shellac was used to
revive this effect but, as Japanese urushi generally does not harden if European materi
als are present, it is necessary to remove them before conservation with solvents that
do not damage the original lacquer. Dirt and dust can be removed with ligroin.
Degraded surfaces can, after cleaning, be revived with kiurushi, which is rubbed into
the surface and then hardened in the humidity chamber. The treatment is continued
until the desired surface effect is achieved. Old fingerprints can be removed in the
same manner.
1 1 . Decorations, either makie or inlays of mother-of-pearl, bone, metal, etc.,
are rarely dealt with in my workshop.
126 Barchalia
Dry Lacquer Statues of Japan
Kyotaro Nishikawa
Tokyo National Museum
oday, the word urushi brings to mind delicate, beautiful, lustrous, compact
T works of art. In the past, however, urushi techniques have also produced huge
and dramatically impressive works of art: dry lacquer statues.
In the middle of the sixth century, Buddhism was introduced to Japan from
the Korean peninsula. Over several decades, the religion took root and many temples
were erected to house Buddhist images. Together with Shintoism, the traditional
religion of Japan, Buddhism began to play an important role in Japanese history.
At first, Buddhist images were made of gilt bronze or wood. But in the
seventh century, two new techniques were introduced from China: kanshitsu (a dry
lacquer technique) and sozo (a clay statue technique). Many dry lacquer statues were
made between the eighth century and the beginning of the ninth century. Today,
many works of that period can be seen in the Nara area. Because then, as now, urushi
Figure 1 . Gobujo (one of the was an extremely expensive material, dry lacquer statues were made mostly for large
eight supernatural guardians
ofBuddha), Kofukuji temple, temples in and near the capital.
Nara. Because the lower part According to an eighth century record, the statues of the four Deva kings
has been lost, the technique
erected in Daianji temple in Nara in the middle of the seventh century were created
can be observed in detail. The
hemp cloth layers, the thick in dry lacquer. This is the earliest record of complete dry lacquer statues. However,
-
ness of kokuso urush i and
many other points can be
extant wooden statues, such as the Kudara Kannon in Horyuji temple, which were
studied. made in an earlier period, used dry lacquer for partial surface modeling. This indicates
that the technique was in use before the seventh century.
Among extant dry lacquer statues made by the beginning of the ninth cen
tury, seventeen are designated as National Treasures and thirty-one are designated as
Important Cultural Properties. These are all highly important works in the history of
Japanese statuary and are under the protection of the Japanese government.
Nishikawa 127
Figure 2a. Sharihotsu (one or
the ten great disciples or
Buddha), Ko(ukuji temple,
Nara, height 1 .55 m, hollow
dry lacquer, polychromed, A.D.
734.
Stages in the construction or
the statue or Sharihotsu.
Figure 2b. The basic frame
work (W) is made and clay
(M) is put on as modeling.
Figure 2c. Hemp cloth layers
(LL) are applied using umshi.
Figure 2d. The back orthe
statue is cut open to remove
the clay, leaving the interior
hollow (E), and kokuso-urushi
(K) is applied as sUrface
modeling. Figure 2e. Cross
section or the (lnished statue.
1 28 Nishikawa
Figure Sa. Zochoten (one of the
four Deva kings).
Figure Sb. The internal frame
work of the statue of Zochoten.
Nishikawa 129
Two dry lac
techniques
quer Dakkatsu kanshitsu (hollow dry lacquer; Figures 1 -7)
1 . A simple framework is made using wooden poles. Clay is put over the
framework to make a rough form. Then the structure is dried.
2. Over the dried structure, three to ten layers of hemp cloth (similar to can
vas used in Western oil painting) are pasted, using urushi. After each layer, the struc
ture is dried.
3 . A rectangular opening is cut into the back of the layered structure,
through which the clay and wooden framework are removed. Then, to strengthen the
assembly, a wooden frame is inserted in the hollow statue and the opening is sewn up
with hemp thread. In some cases, only the clay is removed and the wooden poles are
left to form the inner frame.
4. Wooden arms and feet are attached to the inner wooden frame. Iron wires
are used to form the core of details, such as ears and fingers. For veins on the face of
the statue, hemp string is pasted on, and thin wooden boards are used as a core for
fragile parts of the garments.
5. Over the surface of this basic form, kokuso-urushi (a paste of kneaded
urushi, incense powder, clay powder, sawdust, and sometimes hemp fiber) is applied
and modeled.
6. There are two choices for the final finish: either gold leaf is pasted over a
black urushi coating or various mineral pigments mixed with a thin solution of ani
mal glue are painted over a hakudo coating (white clay mixed with a thin solution of
animal glue).
Figure B. Head of Buddha, Mokushin kanshitsu (wood-core dry lacquer: Figures 8-10)
Toshodaiji temple, Nara, 1 . A rough shape is carved from wood, usually Japanese cypress. Carving is
height B1.5 cm, wood-core dry
lacquer, late eighth century. done either from a single block of wood or from several blocks put together. In many
The area where the kokuso cases the inside of the block is hollowed out, to prevent cracking during drying.
urushi layer has come off
clearly shows the wood-core
2. Over this carved wooden statue, kokuso-urushi is thickly applied as model
surface. This example shows ing. For details, iron wire is used as in the hollow dry lacquer technique, Step 4,
that the details of the eyes above.
were not carved.
3. The application of the final finishing follows the process of the hollow dry
lacquer technique, Step 6, above.
Kokuso-urushi Since kokuso-urushi is a high quality modeling material, it was used even after
the ninth century when dry lacquer statues were no longer made. Even today kokuso
urushi is used to compensate for errors in carving or as a filling for joints or knots in
wood. Urushi itself was often used as a ground coating material and also serves as an
important bonding agent for timber composites in carved wood statues. Until the
nineteenth century, urushi and kokuso-urushi were important materials in the history
of Japanese sculpture.
The use of urushi and kokuso-urushi as modeling materials made it possible to
create statues with balanced style and delicate surfaces. The style itself followed that
of the Tang dynasty and thus exhibits realistiC, classical, and sophisticated beauty.
Although the dry lacquer technique originated in China, most of the remaining
works are in Japan.
1 30 Nishikawa
Figure 9a. Ekadasamukha
(eleven-headed Kannon),
Shorinji temple, Nara, height
2.1 m, wood-core dry lacquer,
gold leaf pasted on, end of the c
eighth century. Stages in the B
construction of the statue of
Ekadasamukha.
A
Figure 9b. Main wood block
(A), arms (B and C), and
blocks used for the hanging
draperies on each side (D and E).
Figure 9e. The rough shape is
carved, with a window (aJ
through which the interior of
block (A) is hollowed out; a
square wooden block (F) is
joined on for the feet.
Figure 9d. Kokuso-urushi
(G) is applied to the sUrface.
Figure lOa.Shakamuni,
Saidaiji temple, Nara, height
70.8 cm, wood-core dry
lacquer, gold leaf pasted on,
late eighth century.
Figures lOb and 1Oe. The
statue ofShakamuni
showing the wood-core
construction.
wooden core
(Japanese cypress)
covered
with
kokuso-urushi
modeling
(0.6 cm)
Nishikawa 131
Chinese Lacquer
A lena Skdlovd
Private Conservator
Skaiova 133
Applied decoration combined with inlay is very similar to the technique of incised
decoration filled with gold (qiangjin) or silver (qiangyin) where the motifs used for dec
oration such as landscapes, figurative scenes, etc., conform to the spirit of Tang
paintings.
Sometime around the fourth century A.D. a new technique called dry lacquer
(tuo dai qi) arose. The center for dry lacquer under the Tang dynasty (A.D. 6 1 8-907)
was in Sichuan. To manufacture dry lacquerware, a piece of cloth is fixed to a clay or
earthenware core over which layers of lacquer are applied. Thus the completed pro
duct is very light. This method was mainly used for making bowls, cups, trays, toilet
boxes, vases, etc. But during the third to fifth centuries A.D. an earlier version of this
technique was used to make Buddhist statues.
Another widespread technique was carving in lacquer (diao qi). In this
method, many layers of lacquer (from thirty-eight to over two hundred) were applied
to a substrate of wood or metal. The lacquer was then carved in either deep or shal
low relief. Typically in the Ming period, the whole surface was ornamented with
motifs of flowers and fruits. The technique evolved into complicated pictorial com
positions of landscapes, architecture, and figurative scenes.
A variation of the carved lacquer technique is through-cut lacquer (tixi) . Lay
ers of lacquer of different colors, at first black and red, and later also other colors,
were applied successively. The decoration was then carved, uncovering the individual
layers according to a deliberate pattern. The oldest known specimen of this technique
is a fan handle from the Southern Song dynasty (thirteenth century A.D. ) . This tech
nique probably evolved from the manufacture of long leather shields during the Tang
period and the epoch of the Five Dynasties (A.D. 907-960). The cores of these shields
were formed of leather (most frequently camel leather) over which seven alternating
layers of black and red lacquer were applied. The decoration was created by uncover
ing the individual layers to form the desired pattern. This technique reached perfec
tion in the latter half of the Song dynasty.
Besides the traditional decorative techniques, whose variety can hardly be
treated in detail in this brief introduction, there is another combined technique that
has no Chinese name. In the West it is known as "Coromandel lacquer, " after the
part of the Indian coast from which it was shipped. Coromandel pieces were made
chiefly for export and the oldest known specimens date from the late seventeenth
century (the Kangxi period). This technique, combining carving, lacquer, and poly
chromy, was used in south China in workshops producing some small toilet boxes
and similar minor items, but mainly large pieces of furniture: tables, dressers, ward
robes, cabinets, and, especially, screens.
Generally, a screen has an even number of panels (four, six, eight, or twelve)
1 7 7 to 275 cm high. Both sides are usually decorated. As a rule, the front has figura
tive scenes while the reverse bears motifs of flowers, birds, or cultural objects. I
should like to emphasize here the artistic qualities of Coromandel lacquer and its con
nection with painting in colored ink. The contour lines of each motif, not only the
general outline, but also the details of attire, features of faces, etc., were cut into the
surface layer of black lacquer. Thus, the fine black lines of the lacquer, combined with
the polychromy of the exposed underlying layer, resemble a fine ink painting, in a
different and more durable medium.
In China today there are three principal places where lacquerware is pro
duced. Beijing is the center of lacquer carving. Fuzhou in Fujian is the center of lac
quer painting, especially of modern techniques using multicolored lacquer, gold dust,
and applied decoration with mother-of-pearl and eggshell, and this technique is
slowly growing into a new medium of modern painting. Finally, Sichuan remains the
traditional center of dry lacquer manufacture.
134 Skatov<i
As an epilogue to this introduction, I would like to pOint out that the quali
ties of genuine Far Eastern lacquer contribute to the overall artistic quality and aes
thetic effect and do not change in the course of time, unless treated unsuitably or
damaged. They cannot be replaced by other materials or different technologies.
Restoration of a After study at the Tokyo National Research Institute of Cultural Properties,
Chinese screen followed by ten years of practice in Europe, I was given the job of restoring a Chinese
screen.
This screen is iIi. the collection of the Residenz Museum in Munich. It dates
from the Kangxi era ( 1 662-1 722) and consists of ten panels, each 184 cm high and
47 cm wide, decorated with carvings in lacquer depicting fantastic landscapes painted
in the Tang style. There are mountains, and lakes with boats floating on them. Archi
tecture is represented by pavilions, studios, and ornamental bridges. Figurative scenes
show the lives of intellectuals.
At the edge of each panel of the screen there are borders with a design of "for
tunate" motifs and objects. The first border from the center contains stylized flowers :
lotuses and tendrils. There follows a wide band of cult objects: vases, fumigators, ves
sels with offerings, symbols of immortality such as Buddha's hand and the mush
rooms of immortality, musical instruments, the mythical three-legged frog, coins,
fans, palm leaves, and gongs. In the third marginal band there are flying cranes in
colorful clouds, also a symbol of immortality.
When I was given the job of restoration, the screen had already been
repaired several times. The first repair was done in the traditional way with original
materials, probably in China. This repair can be detected only by minor changes in
the color of the lacquer covering the repaired area.
In the second and third repairs, European materials were substituted for the
original Chinese ones. The areas where the black lacquer was damaged had been
filled with chalk combined with glue. After polishing, the surface had been coated
with black oil paint. These repairs respected the form of the original lacquer carvings.
For the fourth repair, red wax had been used to fill chips, large cracks, and
irregularities in the lacquer caused by the warping of the wood. This red wax covered
not only the damaged areas but also the surface of the lacquer around them, so that
the sharp contours of the relief were obscured. Indeed, in some places the carvings
themselves were entirely obscured. A coat of black oil paint over the red wax had
been intended to reproduce the rich gloss of lacquer, but it had dulled in the course
of time. The original chalk layer with delicate shades of polychromy was overlaid
with thick, harsh-looking oil paint. Visible traces of brush strokes on the surface of
the screen contributed to the general disharmony.
Figure 1a shows a detail of the screen before restoration. In the center panel,
traces of the repair using red wax are visible as is a test area in the polychromy. After
consultation with the owner (Bayerische Verwaltung der Staatlichen Schlosser, Garten
und Seen, Munich), the second, third, and fourth repairs using unsuitable European
methods and materials (oil paint, wax) were removed. The surface was then consoli
dated using traditional materials. Only the oldest Chinese adhesives, those complying
with the overall aesthetic effect (even if the color of the lacquer had changed), were
Figure 1 . A detail of the screen
(a) before restoration, (b) after left in place (Fig. 1b).
removal of later repairs.
Skaiova 135
Figure 2. Areas filled with
chalk (a) after removal of the
oil paint and (b) after
restoration.
1 36 Skalova
After the oil paint was removed, the areas filled with chalk could be seen.
Figure 2a shows that the form of the original carvings was respected. The chalk com
bined with glue used in earlier repairs was unsuitable due to its high moisture con
tent. Because of this it was necessary to replace the chalk with material similar to that
used originally, while respecting the form of the carvings (Fig. 2b).
The condition after the black oil paint had been removed can be seen in
Figures 3a-c. The red wax spoiled the aesthetic effect and covered a large undamaged
area around the repair. Figures 4a-c show the condition after the red wax was
removed from the surface of the black lacquer as well as from the cracks and fissures,
Figure 8. A test area in the
polychromy reveals the and the areas filled with glue. The real extent of the damage to the surfaces of both
original coloring. lacquer and wood could now be seen.
Figures Sa-c show the condition after repair, including removal of the oil
paint from polychromed areas. Test areas showed the insensitive application of red
wax adhesive over the original relief (Fig. 6). The mechanically damaged black lac
quer surface had been covered with black oil paint that at first concealed the defects;
later, however, it penetrated under the surface and dulled the lacquer (Fig. 7a). This
heterogeneous layer had to be removed entirely, thus uncovering the earliest repair,
which had been done in China in the traditional way (Fig. 7b) . After consultation
with the owner, this earliest repair was left as it was. A test area in the polychromy
after the oil paint was removed showed the original coloring (Fig. 8).
This ten-panel screen was restored from 1 984 to 1986. The problems we
encountered with the repair indicate the need for a unified approach to the restora
tion of Asian artifacts. The materials commonly used in the West can never provide
the qualities found in Far Eastern cultural objects: color, shine, luster, and overall aes
thetic effect. Moreover these Western materials usually penetrate the surface around
the damaged area, which makes it difficult (if not impossible) to redo the repair at a
later date in the traditional manner with materials similar to those used to create the
original.
Acknowledgments Translated from the Czech by Dr. Zlata Cerna, Curator of the Narodniho
Muzea-Naprstekova Muzea, Prague, Czechoslovakia, who also translated the
Chinese articles cited in the bibliography.
Garner, H.
Wang Shi-xiang
1 982 "Xuan-Ji duo cai di Ming Qing dai dian qi qi./1 Guogong bowuyuan yuankan 1.
Skalova 137
Essay on Shells That Became Cherry
Blossoms
Yoshikuni Taguchi
Lacquer Artist
hells, whose origins are in the wide oceans of the earth, have many uses. Some
S shells are a source of food, some shells have monetary value, and some shells
are appreciated solely for their beauty. In the art of urushi, which uses shells as
a material, the beautiful colors of the shells are appreciated all the more since- they
cannot be adequately reproduced in urushi.
The appreciation of beauty is something of which only human beings are
capable. Fish, animals, and birds cannot feel the beauty of things around them. Even
human beings cannot appreciate beauty unless their stomachs are full. In earliest
times, shellfish were merely a source of nutrition. This is proved by the various shell
mounds, consisting of many layers of discarded shells, that have been found in differ
ent places in the world. It took people a long time to notice the beauty of shells
because they were too busy surviving. Ancient hunters decorated themselves with
flowers, shells, and animal fangs only after their hunger was satisfied.
When prehistoric peoples started to create beautiful objects, they used shells
and urushi as decoration. Red urushi combs and ornamental hairpins dating from the
jomon period (pre-200 B.C.) have been excavated at Torihama Kaizuka. Bracelets and
knives made of shells were found at Kosaku Kaizuka in Funabashi, Chiba prefecture.
Scarlet ornamental hairpins from the first half of the Yayoi period (200 B.C.-A.D. 250)
were found in the Aman ruins. Earrings made of shell have been found in various
other places.
Shells were also used as money. For example, during the Ying period in
China, takara and koyasu shells were treasured as coins. It may be hard to imagine
shells being used as money. However, even now shells are sold as material for urushi
in shops and thus have monetary value. In European casinos, mother-of-pearl discs
have been used as coins for roulette; the sound made by these shells is similar to that
of silver coins.
Having been fished from the ocean to be eaten, shells are further used for
decoration because of their beauty. Therefore people who handle shells should show
great appreciation. Shells conceived in beautiful places in the ocean serve as food,
architectural decoration, and craft materials on earth. Mother-of-pearl, awabi, and
hakuchogai are used mainly for craftwork.
Shells are also used to decorate altars. They comfort worshipers with their
beautiful colors, seeming to shine with the mercy of God. One may say that this is
the most precious use of shells.
Taguchi 139
Figure 1 . Scales on the ryuto The colors of shells match the colors of the ocean as well as the colors of the
raden ryoka-gata bon (tray)
fish living there. The motion of fish swimming catches the mind of an artist. To
from the Yuan dynasty in
China. express such beauty, I use silver leaf, platinum leaf, and gold leaf on the back of a
shell. There are many designs that vividly represent fish scales using shells. In the
ryuto raden ryoka-gata bon (a tray with a design of dragon and waves inlaid in raden) of
the Chinese Yuan dynasty ( 1 279-1 368) shells were used for the body of the dragon
(Fig. 1). First, they were cut into pale red or blue scales and inlaid. Then they were
engraved in kebori technique to express the scales dynamically. The fine ripples were
expressed with aogai. Shells were also used for patterns of trees, flowers, and birds on
other art objects. All are examples of how effectively the colors of shells were used
and how exquisitely the artist's images were expressed.
There are many kinds of shells. The spiral shells that are used for shikki (lac
querware) include mother-of-pearl, hakuchogai (a bivalve), kichogai, and kokuchogai.
Awabi-gai is a spiral shell, although it looks like a univalve, for only a small part of the
shell has a spiral. Mother-of-pearl and awabi-gai have been used since ancient times
because they are hard enough to cut patterns easily. When collecting awabi, the
women divers take kuro-awabi first, for it is quick to flight and sticks hard to the rock.
It is oval and the inside of the shell is green and lustrous. Ezo-awabi is a thin shell
with uneven "pleats." The inside is mostly green. It is good for making fine patterns
on shikki. Madaka-awabi and mekai-awabi are more red than blue; the pink or purple
parts are rare and valuable. The color of sazae resembles mother-of-pearl but is
greener. This shell is small and suitable for making sharp curves.
140 Taguchi
When raden is inlaid on a column in a building, the shells are used whole.
First a design is made on Japanese paper and placed over the shells. Then the shells
are cut with a fretsaw on a stand to fit the curvature of the column. The natural
curves of the shells are retained in cutting and the shells are polished. The flower pat
terns on the ends of the roller, which is thinner than a column, of the shitan raden
jiku (hanging scroll) in the Itsukushima shrine were made in the same way. The same
method was also used for the national treasure, ho-o raden kagari tachi (sword) of the
Heian period (794- 1 1 85).
The shells used since ancient times have reflected the aesthetic preferences of
each country. Although a very beautiful awabi existed in Japan, it was not used for a
long time. Instead, mother-of-pearl was used in the Nara, Heian, Kamakura, and
Muromachi periods (710-1568), under the influence of the Tang culture. Mother-of
pearl appealed to the Japanese because of its luster, which was an apt metaphor for
the life of people who enjoyed sunshine though all seasons. Awabi began to be used
in the Muromachi period (1 392-1 568). In the Momoyama period (1568-1600), new
patterns of gorgeous maples in autumn and beautiful cherry blossoms in spring
became popular. Since these patterns were made on kin-makie, enashiji, aokin (all tech
niques that make abundant use of gold) and on silver, the blue and red colors of
awabi matched them well.
Some of the raden methods use atsugai (thick shell) and make a flat surface.
In one of these methods, when applying nakanuri (intermediate coating), shells are
inlaid so that they are slightly higher than the nakanuri surface. When roiro-shiage
(polishing) is done, the entire surface becomes even. When making ikakeji (lacquer
ware thickly coated with gold dust and polished to look like gold), shells are inlaid
still higher than the urushi surface. Tin foil is pasted over the entire surface and dried.
Then the raden is ground with a whetstone until the entire surface becomes level.
After that, the tin foil on the urushi is peeled off. As a result the raden will be slightly
higher than the nakanuri surface. When ikakeji is then done on the nakanuri, the
entire surface becomes level.
The two atsugai techniques mentioned above are quite often seen nowadays
but were not so popular in the Heian and Kamakura periods. Outstanding examples
of atsugai technique include the Chusonji Konjikido raden and octagonal shumidan
(altar) from the Heian period and the magaki-giku raden suzuribako (ink-stone box
with a fence and chrysanthemum design) of the Tsurugaoka Hachiman shrine from
the Kamakura period (Fig. 2) . In all these examples, which are designated national
treasures, the impression given by the raden is soft, even though the material itself is
hard.
In the usugai technique, thin shells are placed on the nakanuri and urushi is
applied three times to raise the surrounding urushi area to equal height with the
shells. Then the urushi covering the surface of the shells is scraped away. The
suhama-u raden suzuribako (ink-stone box with cormorant design) of the Heian period
is a masterpiece of usugai technique. When raden is applied over the surface of a shikki
in such a way that the raden forms a pattern, then the shells are kept a little higher
than the surface of the urushi. In the final coating of such a deSign, care should be
taken with the handling of the brush so that no dust remains on the final coating
and no extra urushi is deposited around the shells. In my nuritate-shiage technique, in
which only one coating of urushi is applied over the nakanuri, a knife or a spatula is
used to scrape urushi off the shells. Thus the shells theoretically become slightly
lower than the urushi uwanuri (final) surface. Such a condition is also seen in ikakeji
of the Heian period. It is this condition that makes the outline of the raden uniquely
soft.
Taguchi 141
Figure 2. The magaki-giku
raden suzuribako (ink-stone
box) from the Tsurugaoka
shrine, Kamakura period.
Figure 3. Meigetsu-wan
(Momoyama period). Also
called warigai cherry-blossom
bowl set, it was given to
Meigetsu-in in Kamakura by
Urakusai Oda, a younger
brother ofNobunaga.
142 Taguchi
li� 71'7
t+"l;tSl-�l
�� t." � � 1" �1 � =1" l of,I fJ�"
,
J
Figure 4. Meigetsu-wan
research data. Shiruwan
(soup bowl), height 7.5 em,
diameter 1 3.2 em; meshiwan
(rice bowl), height 9.9 em,
diameter 14 em; hirawan (flat
bowl), height 5.4 em, diameter
1 3.2 em; tsubowan
(vase-shaped bowl), height 7.3
em, diameter 1 1 . 1 em.
Taguchi 1 43
Meigetsu-wan, a set of bowls, in Meigetsu-in in Kamakura, are also known as
"cherry blossom bowls" (Fig. 3). The cherry blossom designs are made from shells
from the ocean. Urakusai Oda, a younger brother of Nobunaga who lived in
Yuraku-cho, Tokyo, donated this bowl to Meigetsu-in in the Momoyama period.
Urakusai worked as a mediator between Nobunaga and the Toyotomi family. He then
devoted the remainder of his life to the tea ceremony. Some of the bowls now belong
to the collection of the Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music.
After a long chilly winter, spring comes and new leaves sprout on the trees in
Tokyo at the beginning of April. Cherry buds grow in the sunshine day by day. In the
middle of April, the cherry trees come into full bloom. According to Japanese custom,
people gather under the cherry trees, drink sake, enjoy themselves, and relax. As they
go home, they walk on numerous cherry blossom petals on the road. Five of these
petals placed on the hand make a cherry flower. It is from this image that the famous
Meigetsu-wan cherry blossoms on vermilion urushi bowls were born. They look like
cherry blossoms in the moonlight, suitable for Meigetsu-in (literally, the temple of
the bright moon). There are eleven flowers on the rneshiwan (rice bowl) and ten
flowers on its lid; there are ten flowers on the shiruwan (soup bowl) and nine on its
lid. The tsubowan (vase-shaped bowl) has nine flowers and the hirawan (flat bowl) has
Figure 5. Hira-natsume (tea nine also. They are all single-petaled cherry blossoms. The wooden substrate is
powder container) using
Japanese cypress. Hemp cloth was pasted on the edges and urushi-shitaji (priming)
warigai technique, made by
Yoshikuni Taguchi. Silver leaf was applied. Bengara-nuri was used for the nakanuri (intermediate coating) . Shells were
and gold leaf on the reverse of then placed in position and the final urushi coating of a mixture of bengara (red
the shells create a unique
variation. Gold dust sprinkled ocher) and vermilion was applied. Lastly, urushi on the surface of the shells was
on the side of th e natsume; scraped away with a spatula or knife.
horizontal lines scratched;
With regard to the raden parts, awabi-gai was cut to make the cherry blossom
petals. Japanese paper was pasted over the five-petaled cherry blossoms made of
shells, using paste that is soluble in water. On a wooden stand with a thick cover, the
shells were cracked finely, through the paper, with a knife that had round edges and
would not cut, or with rectangular sticks of wood or bamboo. This is known as wari
gai technique. Positions for the shells were marked on the wan (bowls). After that,
roiro-urushi or kijiro-urushi was applied with a brush to the reverse of the shells. They
were then placed on the burnished nakanuri surface. After drying, the Japanese paper
was dampened so that it could be removed from the shells with a small brush. Then
urushi consisting of vermilion and bengara was applied and, after drying, urushi on
the surface of the shells was scraped away (Fig. 4).
In general, warigai technique is used to paste flat pieces of shell on a curved
surface (Fig. 5). The cracks that appear on the shells give a new impression to the flat
surface of the shells just as wrinkled Japanese paper gives an entirely different effect
compared with unwrinkled paper. The lines separating raden and ikakeji found on
urushi objects of the Heian and Kamakura periods are similar to the fine lines on
cloth that has been tie-dyed. The botan karakusa raden-bako (inlaid box) is an example
of warigai from the Muromachi period. Since the surface of the box itself is flat, cracks
in the shells create a unique contrast.
Figure 6. Okigai design by Other techniques similar to warigai include okigai in which small pieces of
Yoshikuni Taguchi. Shells are
shell are used as in mosaic (Fig. 6) and tsubuoki in which still smaller pieces are used
placed one by one on the side,
thus creating a variety of to make patterns (Fig. 7). Eggshells were also used instead of shells on sword sheaths
patterns. Gradated in the Edo period ( 1 600-1 868).
kin-hirame-fun on the
surface of the lid; togidashi . Mugi-urushi is generally used to paste atsugai, but the amount of starch in the
Figure 7 . Silver tsubuoki mixture depends on the individual urushi craftsman. Pure flour is used. First, the
sample board made by
flour and water are kneaded until they have the consistency of an earlobe. Kiurushi
Yoshikuni Taguchi. The shell
particles are of the same size (unrefined urushi) is added gradually so that the mixture becomes sticky. This
as gin-hirame. mugi-urushi is used to paste not only shells but also other materials.
144 Taguchi
When atsugai is inlaid on urushi, it should be placed deep into the nunokise;
if it is not embedded deeply enough, it may peel off. To inlay atsugai, urushi is baked
onto the reverse of the shell for two hours at 120'C, so that it adheres well. After that,
the baked urushi surface is given a slightly mat finish with charcoal.
A much stronger way of pasting atsugai is to use nikawa (animal glue). Sanzen
bon nikawa is soaked in water overnight; then it is boiled to a thick consistency over
low heat. Finally, it is filtered through a cloth strainer. During use, it should be kept
heated over a water bath. Adding this thick nikawa gradually to kiurushi strengthens
the adhesive power of the urushi. I think now that it is better to use this for atsugai.
In some cases, hemp fiber and powdered spruce may be mixed with urushi to make it
easier to dry.
When pasting usugai, roiro-urushi or kijiro-urushi is used to paste small square
pieces of shell. Cut patterns should be pasted when the roiro-urushi or kijiro-urushi is
half dry, or nikawa-urushi should be used. It is also much better to have a thin coating
of urushi baked on the reverse of the shell before it is used. The temperature is the
same as for atsugai. I use a domestic iron for this purpose because the temperature can
be easily adjusted.
The national treasure, nashiji kiri-mon raden koshigatana (short sword) in
Itsukushima shrine, made in the Nambokucho period, uses the warigai technique.
There are several horizontal rough cracks which give an impression of vigor. It is a
very rare example in which awabi was used.
It is more difficult to make warigai from Mexico-gai (compared to aogai and
mother-of-pearl) because Mexico-gai has brilliant patterns like the scales of a pine tree
trunk which easily peel off when the shells are cracked (Fig. 8).
Urushi began to be used as an adhesive in Japan from the middle of the
Jomon period. An earthen vessel was excavated from Juno Deitanso in Saitama prefec
ture. The vessel had been repaired with urushi so that it could be reused. I was struck
with admiration to realize that urushi had been used for this purpose since ancient
times.
People often place great value on an old tree of historical interest. Urushi is
an inconspicuous tree. It cannot become any other kind of tree, no matter how much
it wishes to do so. However, the urushi tree has valuable sap, which may be likened to
human blood, and we should make good use of it. Significant works of art are
national properties in any country. They should be well preserved and kept in good
repair. Each country has its own remarkable materials. Each should make the best
repair by using such materials . I myself think my life is like that of an urushi tree.
Taguchi 145
Appendix: Aogai Patellaida (Chiazacmea) striata (Quoy et Gaimard), from the Ryukyu islands;
shells used in raden Iiterally "bl ue shell."
Awabi-gai General name for haliotis; gai and kai mean shell.
Hakuchogai Pinctada maxima Uameson), also known as shirochogai; haku and shiro mean
white.
Kokuchogai Pinctada margaritifera (Linne), more correctly known as kurochogai; kuro and
koku mean black.
Mexico-gai Resembles madaka-awabi; the main part is deep blue-green and the rest is
spotted.
1 46 Taguchi
Urushi Technique in the Prehistoric and
Antique Periods in Japan
Toshikatsu Nakasato
Tokyo National Research Institute of Cultural Properties
rushi began to be used in Japan very early in the prehistoric period, about
U 5000 B.C. It was greatly influenced by the superb works and techniques intro
duced from the mainland in the sixth century A.D. (when Japan had j ust
begun to develop as a nation) and in the seventh and eighth centuries. After the
ninth century, the relationship with the mainland was severed and urushi art
developed in its uniquely Japanese style until the end of the Antique period in the
twelfth century.
Almost all the fundamental techniques employed in present-day urushi work
are believed to have developed during this Antique period. However, over the centur
Figure 1 . Cross section of
rantai-shikki (lacquerware ies many changes in technique occurred as the art form developed. As a result, tech
with a woven bamboo sub niques used today are not exactly the same as the techniques used in the Antique
strate) found in the ruins of
Korekawa. period.
This paper will discuss urushi techniques from the Antique and even earlier
periods with special emphasis on urushi-shitaji (priming), raden (shell inlay), and
makie-fun (sprinkled metal powders) and will describe the differences between earlier
techniques and those used today.
Urushi-shitaji Urushi-shitaji is a general term for sabi and jinaka and is the ground coating.
(priming) Sabi is tanaka (finely ground baked clay) mixed with water and kneaded with an equal
amount of raw urushi; urushi-jinaka is jinaka, which is coarser than tanaka, kneaded
with raw urushi.
In the early technique of urushi work in Japan, around 5000 B.C., urushi was
applied directly on wood in layers, and urushi-shitaji was not essential. However,
towards the end of the Jomon period, around 500 B.C., rantai-urushi wares, which
employed woven bamboo as a substrate, were introduced. Thus, shitaji- became an
important technique for covering the mesh surface.
A rantai (woven bamboo) vase, found in the ruins of Korekawa, dating from
the end of the Jomon period, has a clear, dark brown shitaji, and includes transparent
quartz particles along with a sandlike substance (Fig. 1 ) . Although no scientific inves
tigation has been done, urushi is likely to have been used as a binder.
Rantai combs were also made in this period, and urushi-jinaka was used to
give shape to the combs. Among the ten combs excavated at Terachi, some were
shaped by kakusa (a paste made of urushi, clay powder, sawdust, etc.) and others by
urushi-shitaji. The urushi-shitaji of this period are extremely solid and have scarcely
any cracks.
Nakasato 147
Figure 2. Hemp and shitaji
(priming) from the
Hachimanyama tumulus.
Figure 3. Urushi-shitaji from
the Hachimanyama tumulus.
148 Nakasato
;.'
... - ;,; The urushi-shitaji of the twelfth century is represented by the so-called
Chusanji-jinaka of Chusonji Konjikido. This urushi-shitaji was used for filling spaces
.• �
between raden (mother-of-pearl inlay) and is characterized by its ability to make a
i�
c�
i:J ;: • , 2 mm layer in a single application. Urushi-shitaji diluted with water seems to have
been used when narrow spaces between intricate raden designs were filled. This urushi
t \,
. .
' .,
shitaji is similar to present-day urushi-jinaka, being light brown in color with coarse
particles . There is no evidence of the use of tanaka in the twelfth century.
• l '. . -: - -,." It should be noted that in the interior decoration of the Konjikido, only the
left and right shumidan (altars), which were worked on at a later date, have black
Figure 6. Katawaguruma
makie-tebako (cosmetic box urushi-shitaji between the raden designs. This special urushi-shitaji is found in almost
with waterwheel design; all the raden objects of this period (Fig. 6) and may have been an essential technique
twelfth century) with black
for decorative works. However, what the material was and what sort of effect it
uru shi-shi ta j i .
achieved have not yet been discovered. This technique was handed down and used
until the early thirteenth century, when it became extinct.
Raden In the Antique period, only yakagai (Lunatica marmarata Linne) was used for
raden. The process is still a mystery. Considering other techniques of the Antique
period it is easy to figure out how the shells were made into sheets; however, the
tools used to cut out the designs are not familiar. Since these tools have not been
passed down, and since there have been no related archaeological discoveries, the
only clue is the carved surface of the raden itself.
Investigations of the marks on the surface of raden (Figs. 7,8) belonging to
the twelfth and thirteenth centuries reveal an interesting fact. Presumably something
like a wire with a round, narrow, cross section was used to make the cuts. In order to
employ a wire as a saw, one only needs to make incisions. The result will not be
much different from today's wire-saw blade. The cross section of the tool is thought
to have been round because the irizumi (cut edge) of the raden fits the tool, as is
shown in Figure 9.
How this blade was fixed to its wooden frame is unknown, but saws similar
to present-day steel saws have been found in excavated ruins of the eighth century.
Furthermore, it is known that a more typical bow-shaped saw was used in China.
Hence, we can imagine the shape of the raden tool then in use. The instrument used
for cutting agate in the Izumo district proves that by sprinkling emery, a hard rock
can be cut with simple twine.
Even in the raden of the Tang period (A.D. 6 1 8-907), traces of a wire blade
with a round cross section are found. This technique developed steadily and was used
in the twelfth century during the elaborate project at the Konjikido. The raden of the
Konjikido amounted to a total of several tens of thousands of pieces, so these works
could not have been completed by only a few skilled artists in a short period of time.
Therefore, the work of producing raden must have been done by a simple method
requiring little skill and carried out by a large number of people. In the thirteenth
century this method was still in use and reached its peak.
Nakasato 1 49
Figure 1 0. Raden from the
Shigure kura (saddle; thir
teenth century) showing the
marks of a blade with a round
cross section.
Among the principal remains from this period, the Fusenryo makie-raden
tebako (cosmetic box) in the Suntory Museum, the Shigure raden kura (saddle) from
the Eisei Bunko, and the sakura-raden kura in the Tokyo National Museum are well
known, and there are other excellent works, especially raden saddles. The raden of the
Shigure saddle shows traces of a blade with a round cross section and such exquisite
technique that it cannot be imitated today even with a wire-saw (Fig. 10).
The general standard of raden technique in this period was high, due not so
much to the skill of the artists as to the introduction and improvement of tools. In
fact, one raden product demonstrates the process of improvement in the blade: the
Matsukawabishi raden kura (Konda Hachiman). Interestingly, this saddle shows traces
of square blade marks similar to the wire-saw blade of today. However, since this kind
of blade is found only in this one example among the remains from the thirteenth
century, it may be an exceptional work.
Traces on the cut surface of raden should also be considered. For example,
one raden in the Konjikido shows a U-shaped cut surface that gives a smooth outline
and creates its peculiar atmosphere. The raden of the makie koto (zither; Kasuga
Taisha), also dating from the twelfth century, possesses sublime expression from
having the sides of the raden sliced almost vertically.
There are several possible reasons for such great differences in the process of
cutting raden. First, the raden of the Konjikido was mass-produced whereas that of the
koto was carefully created as an offering for a god. Secondly, there was difference in
the precision of the tools. In mass-production the tools are inevitably less accurate.
Trying to cut by force with a blunt blade will naturally make a U-shape. Thirdly, the
skill of the artists may have been different. For the creation of the Konjikido many
artists were gathered from Kyoto, but not all these raden artists had superior skills.
The makie koto and the Konjikido display contrasting characteristics in the raden
works of the twelfth century. The raden of the makie koto is far superior to the raden
technique of the Shosoin and it is considered to be one of the best raden relics in
Japan.
1 50 Nakasato
Figure 1 1 . Makie-fun (metal
filings): (a) rice-grain shape
(twelfth century), (b) circular
shape (twelfth century), (c)
hirame-fun (thirteenth cen
tury), (d) Filing shapes, (e)
present-day maru-fun (round
shape), (f) gold dust.
M aki fun
e- Japanese makie dates back to the eighth century and early makie-fun may well
have used more natural materials such as sand gold. The shape of makie-fun changed
from a rice-grain shape, to an oval shape until the thirteenth century when it
developed into a round shape.
Makie-fun which were generally very coarse were called yasuri-fun. This name
comes from the Edo period (1 600-1 868) and has been brought into common use.
However, the ancient makie-fun, which were finer than yasuri-fun, are better called
"ancient filings."
Ancient filings are those makie-fun used from the eighth to the twelfth cen
turies. Recent investigations show that these ancient filings have different characteris
tics from the makie-fun used from the thirteenth century onward. The most
significant characteristic of the ancient filings is the long, narrow, rice-grain shape.
From the thirteenth century the shape gradually becomes more circular.
Besides the rice-grain shape, the filings before the twelfth century can be
broadly grouped as follows: wedge-shaped, triangular, and whisker-shaped. Different
metals yield different shapes of filings: for gold, rice-grain shape and for silver, wedge
shape are the most common; for greenish gold, triangles and wedge-shapes are found.
Such categorization merely notes the tendency and is not absolute. There are many
makie remains dating from the eighth to the thirteenth centuries, yet each example of
makie-fun possesses different types of unique filing shapes; hence it is difficult to find
similar shapes of filings even among these remains. The significance of this is still
unknown but perhaps the making of filings was originally done by individuals.
Shokunin tsukushi-e, which pictures many artisans at work, depicts a man making
makie-fun next to a man engaged in makie.
Hirame-fun (metal flakes, literally "flat-eye dust"), found in remains from the
latter part of the twelfth century, became popular in the thirteenth century.
Apparently some kind of significant change took place in the fun manufacturing
method. The method described in the contemporary Wakan Sansai zu-e shows the
process of first making hirame-fun and then sai-fun (a very fine powder). This suggests
that the process goes back to the thirteenth century when hirame-fun was popularly
used.
Nakasato 151