The Silk Road Pardhu

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The author of the chapter ‘Silk Road’, Nick Middleton,

narrates his journey to Mount Kailash through Tibet. He


wanted to perform the holy ritual of the kora and saw it as
a motivation for positive thinking that he wanted to
inculcate more in his daily life.

While leaving a place called Ravu, the author is


accompanied by another person named Daniel. The name
of their driver is Tsetan. A local lady from Ravu named
Lhamo gifted a sheepskin coat to the author. It was the
general attire of the drokbas. Tsetan knew a route to
Mount Kailash in the southwest direction that would
involve passing through several high mountain passes.

Along the way, the author saw vast, open arid pastures
with gazelles nibbling on them; dust clouds called kyang;
solitary drokbas looking after their cattle and nomads’
tents guarded by Tibetan mastiffs. The massive and fear-
inducing anatomy of these Tibetan mastiffs made the
author realise why they were popular as hunting dogs in
China’s imperial courts. Soon, they encountered snow-
capped mountains that were quite difficult to pass through.
The altitude at this place was 5,210 metres above sea
level, according to the author’s watch. The cold affected
his physiological functions and he started experiencing a
headache.
They reached the top of the mountain pass, which was
5,515 metres above sea level and marked by a pile of
rocks. The author finally started feeling better as they
descended to a work camp set up beside a dry Salt Lake.
By afternoon, they reached a small town called Hor –
which the author describes as ‘miserable’ with no greenery
and only rocks and dust. Daniel parted ways here and
went back to Lhasa. The author expresses his
disappointment at his expectations of the Mansoravar
Lake on whose shore the town of Hor was situated. There
was garbage everywhere.

Finally, they arrived at a guest house in Darchen at night.


The author could not sleep, and Tsetan took him to the
Darchen medical college the following morning. Once he
was assured that the author was well and could do the
kora, Tsetan returned to Lhasa.

After a good night’s sleep, Darchen did not look so horrible


to the author, and he felt relaxed. He describes Darchen
as a dusty and derelict town with a few rudimentary stores.
The author could not see too many pilgrims around and
assumed that he might have arrived very early for the
pilgrim season. He did not want to do the kora alone, with
the snow blocking most of the way.
As he waited for optimum conditions to do the kora, he
met Norbu, who was an academic researcher working on
the importance of it in various works of Buddhist literature
at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences in Beijing. The
author got to know Norbu better and found out that he was
there to do the kora as well. Both academicians decided to
do the pilgrimage as a team, and the author felt that his
positive-thinking strategy was working again.

Conclusion of Silk Road


The author had to face many challenges, which made him
develop a negative attitude towards his journey many
times, but he stayed put and was finally able to find
someone as interested in the kora as him. Both found
common grounds in their motivation towards the
pilgrimage. The author ends his travel account on a note
of positivity. He finds out that thinking positively does lead
to good outcomes in life

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