Scottish Tam

Directions: Scottish Tam (aka Scots Bonnet)
This hat is currently called a "tam", but in the 18th century was known as a "Scots Bonnet" (as in
Sir Walter Scots's song "All the Blue Bonnets are Over the Border"). It was such a common
garment that it became a symbol of Scots, particular Scottish Highlanders.
This Scots Bonnet, or Tam, pattern is based on the one on p. 4 and 6 of the Shire Booklet Scottish
Knitting by Helen Bennett, which dates to about 1718. I've omitted the red yarn knots on the
brim, since they aren't seen on other examples.
Needles:
5 double-pointed needles, Size 7, 12" long (see instructions below on making your own)
or 2 sets 8” size 7 dpns
or 1 set size 7 dpns plus 1 16” circular needle.
Note: for 12” dpns, buy 3/16" dowels, which can usually be found at the crafts store sold in
packages already cut 12" long. Sharpen the ends, sand with 220 grit sandpaper, and coat them
with a finish – polyurethane or Danish rubbing oil work nicely.
Yarn:
2 skeins of
Reynolds Lopi, color 0098, a medium blue
or
Lamb's Pride Worsted (from Brown Sheep Company), Color M-51 Winter Blue (that's the color used
in these photos -- a lightish grey-blue)
or
Lamb's Pride Worsted (from Brown Sheep Company), Color M-150 Bulldog Blue
You'll need two skeins each, though you might be able to get away with one, depending on your
knitting.
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© 2004 Mara Riley for personal, non-commercial use only – do not duplicate or distribute
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Swatch:
Regardless of what kind of yarn you wind up using, knit yourself a swatch, count the stitches and
rows, measure it, then throw it in the wash (hot/cold cycle to shock and felt the wool) a couple of
times until you get the desired texture. You can also felt it by hand for better control over the rate
of shrinkage. If you are using a front-loading washer, you will probably get more shrinkage on the
second washing.
Use this swatch to calculate the rate of shrinkage you can expect using the same washing
methods. For instance, if your swatch shrinks to 75% of its former size, divide your desired
finished dimensions by .75 to get the number of inches you should knit to.
Bonnet outer brim diameter: 12” across

__ inches / __% shrinkage (along length of swatch) = __ finished diameter
Bonnet headband: approx. 22” circumference

__ inches / __ % shrinkage (across width of swatch) = __ finished circumference
Knitting:
Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Knit; after each stitch, pick up a stitch by knitting into the back of the previous row's
stitches. You will wind up with 8 stitches.
Distribute these 8 stitches evenly on 4 needles:
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Row 4:
Knit the stitches on each needle, picking up a stitch at the end of each needle by knitting into the
back of the previous row of the last stitch.
Row 5 onward:
Insert a marker at the end of the fourth needle and randomly increase as you go along, one stitch
per needle per round. Increase at the same point on each needle, to avoid inadvertently develop a
pattern of increases.
Continue increasing until you reach the measurement indicated by your swatch for a finished
diameter of 12 inches.
When top of hat is big enough, start decreasing every other row by randomly decreasing one stitch
per needle per round, until the circumference of the opening is the measurement you need to fit
the wearer's head, allowing for shrinkage.
Head band:
Knit enough rounds, allowing for shrinkage, to have about 2 inches of plain knitting.
This picture shows the bonnet after the hatband has been knitted.
Same thing, but laid out flat.
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Bind off:
You can use a two-needle bindoff, but I find that a crochet hook is easier.
Fold the band to itself and whip-stitch in place, using self yarn and a yarn needle.
The finished bonnet, before washing:
Wash in hot water followed by a cold rinse, using the same method used to wash your initial
swatch. Air dry. This will felt up the beret and shrink it to size.
Support:
If you believe you have found an error in this pattern or have problems understanding it, please
email the author at [email protected].
Changes or updates to patterns will be posted at www.knittingobsession.com/errata.htm. If you would like

a version of the updated pattern, email us at [email protected].
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Directions: Scottish Tam (aka Scots Bonnet)

Bonnet outer brim diameter: 12” across

Bonnet headband: approx. 22” circumference

Distribute these 8 stitches evenly on 4 needles:

Same thing, but laid out flat.

The finished bonnet, before washing:

Changes or updates to patterns will be posted at www.knittingobsession.com/errata.htm. If you would like

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