Net Making
Net Making
'
To my wife
for her encouragement
and for her patience with the '
everlasting string
Net Making
grommet start 95
Grommets 95
Estimating 95
Alternative patterns 97
Other methods of making bags 98
A basketball goal net (sleeve netting) 100
Square mesh netting 102
A duffle- type shoulder bag 107
A hammock and woven clews 111
A crab pot 119
7
assomething they had always wanted to do. I am delighted to
citemy oldest enthusiast, Charles F. Swaine, aged 70, retired,
with the time and the desire to learn and to do; he learned readily
and has found a new and satisfying craft.
Netting needles
These are the string holders, usually made of flexible and almost
unbreakable plastic. They are obtainable from suppliers of craft
materials and some anglers' shops.
^ s '
prong
point
heel 1
5 body
Mesh sticks
The mesh stick determines the size of
performs two functions ; it
the mesh and ensures that the meshes are all equal in size. Care
should be taken to use the sizes of mesh stick and needle specified
in the patterns for the mesh stick must always be rather wider than
the needle so that the loaded needle will pass comfortably through
the meshes.
10
They are made in thin, smooth wood, especially beech, but can be
improvised from thick or medium strawboard, old rulers, etc. They
should be rectangular in shape, about 6 to 8 inches long and in
widths required for the various mesh sizes. For these patterns,
mesh sticks in 1 inch, l| and 2 inch widths will be needed for each
person.
Hooks
Cup hooks attached at suitable heights in safe and convenient
places.Coat pegs in the cloakroom will suffice; a portable
coat-rack or any wooden frame will make a good netting
rack
for a reasonable sized group. The author uses old swing
blackboard frames with the board removed and the top bar
lowered. One frame accommodates eight children, either standing
to work with their netting attached to the top bar, or seated with
their netting attached to the lower bar.
fig. 2
II
!
S-shaped hooks
Butcher's hooks with the points hack-sawed or filed off, metal
rod or strong wire bent to a similar shape and size are useful for
hanging work between two chair backs when making string handles
on shopping bags.
Buttons
These are threaded with a string loop to make a toggle with which
to suspend circular netting for bags so that it rotates freely.
Trouser and jacket buttons are a good size, but do have a good
stock, for enthusiastic netters will cut off their own buttons to
supply an urgent need
F/g. 3
12
Chapter 2
Netting as a group
activity
The question most teachers want answered is how they can begin
netting as a class or group activity. You can work up to a large
group of 24 or more on netting by starting successive groups of
four at a time. To the complete novice in netting I would
recommend the following approach
to help sort diflficult loops and in any case help you decide who are
the next keenest four to be initiated.
loops, make a grommet, tie off and make the extra loop ; then mesh
for 5 rows.
15
.
misunderstandings
16
Chapter 3
Beginners, please
The basic netting l<.not
This is like the Sheet Bend (in saiHng) and the Weaver's Knot (in
weaving and book-binding), but should be made as detailed below.
Required
2 pieces of string, preferably thick for easy handling, and about
18 inches long
A hook at a suitable height ; that is about chest height.
1. With one piece make a closed loop by tying its two ends
together. This will be used as a foundation loop. Hang it on the
2. Using the second piece of string, pass all except the last two
inches through the back of the foundation loop and hold at the
intersection with the thumb and one finger of the left hand (Figs.
5&6).
J)
Fis. 4
working
string
tail
F/g. 5
F/g. 6
19
20
Fig. 9
3. Holding the long end of the string (the working end) in the
right hand, throw an open loop over to the left. Take care not to
allow a twist in this loop (Fig. 7).
4. With the right hand, take the end of the string to the right,
round the back of the foundation loop and out to the front through
the thrown loop (Figs. 8 & 9).
5. Keeping the left thumb and finger firmly in position until the
last moment, pull the knot firm, but not tight at this stage.
21
!
correct incorrect
Fig. 10
Note 1
Care must be taken to seat the knot correctly round the bottom of the
foundation loop and not to let it slip below.The latter will slip and
make a sloppy net, but the former will remain in position and make a
firm net which will retain its shape.
With practice you will begin to manipulate the knot as you make it,
holding, slackening and positioning as required with the thumb and
finger of the left hand.
Note 2
Keep a steady tension on the whole piece throughout the process by
work towards you with the left hand.
pulling the
Look at it proudly. Follow the line of the knot. Feel the flow. This
is the basic knot with which all your nets will be made.
Try doing with your eyes closed. When you feel happy with it,
it
take out your medium netting needle and start on the next stage.
22
Loading the needle
The netting needle is a beautifully functional tool, designed to hold
conveniently until required, and to serve easily when needed, as
long a length of string as possible; for the fewer joining knots there
are the better.
You will find it best to cut off a measured length of string before
loading the needle, so that the twist produced as you load will run
off at the free end. This will not be possible of course in the early
stages when you do not know the capacity of the needles, so load
direct from the ball in the first instance, cut off, unload the needle
and measure the length of the string. Mark this by some permanent
mark in the room and after this you can cut the required length of
string to load the needle fully but without overloading and what is
more the string can be laid out on the floor to untwist as you load.
The actual loading hardly needs any detailing as the needle is really
simple.
1. Hold the needle in the left hand with the point upwards.
2. Hold the end of the string anywhere on the body of the needle
with the left thumb.
a Fig. I I
3. Run the string up the body, round the prong and down the
same side of the body to trap the starting end of the string (Fig. 11a).
Note
The needle is flexible so by pressing on the point of the needle with the
right hand the prong is left clear and the string can be run round it
easily.
4. Take the string round the bottom or heel of the needle, between
the two projections.
23
:
5. Turn the needle back to front, still with the point upwards, and
continue loading by repeating the same processes
(i) up the body, round the prong and down the same side
(ii) under the heel, turn the needle, and up the other side
(iii) round the prong again and down the same side, etc.
24
A first practice piece
This is diamond mesh, straightforward and
a simple piece of
repetitive, requiring no new knots but reinforcing the formation of
the newly learned netting knot and introducing the mesh stick.
The piece itself is of no practical use and can be discarded (or
proudly displayed as your first piece of netting ; children will
certainly wish to keep it). However the process is genuine and with
more meshes per row would produce items such as hammocks,
fruit nets, etc. Unfortunately to do this in any greater width calls
for a different way of setting up and a new knot. This would be an
unnecessary complication and has therefore been left until later.
(See Chapter 4, A woollen scarf.)
Required
1 medium netting needle (about | inch width)
1 mesh stick, l| inch width
18 inches medium string (for the foundation loop)
6 yards medium string (to load the needle)
Casting on
1. Start as before with a foundation loop, made from your 18-inch
piece, and hung on a hook in a suitable netting position.
2. Load the needle and attach the string as before to the bottom of
the foundation loop with a netting knot.
3. Hold the mesh stick in the left hand. Hold it correctly from
below with the thumb at the front (Fig. 12).
4. Lay the working string over the front of the mesh stick. At this
point do not be concerned about the mesh stick being close up to
the foundation loop (Fig. 13).
5. Take the string round below and up behind the mesh stick, and
out through the foundation loop from the back (Fig. 14).
26
-^.
Fis. 12
27
:
6. Pull the needle downwards with your right hand and the mesh
stick will be hauled by pulley effect to the bottom of the foundation
loop (Fig. 15).
7. With the thumb and finger of the left hand hold the string and
the foundation loop where they cross at the top of the mesh stick.
8. Form the knot and draw it firm but not tight. This is a wise
precaution for beginners as it facilitates undoing if necessary
(Fig. 16).
Fig. 16
(i) Take the working string round the bottom and up behind the
mesh stick, and out through the foundation loop from the back
(Fig. 17).
(ii) Haul downwards with the right hand until the working string
pulls the lower side of the foundation loop hard down on the top of
the mesh stick.
Obviously the mesh stick cannot move, but be sure to pull down
with the right hand so that the knot is always made close to the
top of the mesh stick. Unless you do so, your meshes will not be
uniform and your net will be badly shaped.
28
Fig. 18
(iii) Hold the intersection with the left thumb at the front and the
left index or second finger at the back.
Note
It will help informing the knot if you can position your thumb to hold
the intersection so that the working string can be thrown easily to the
left; it is better to pinch finely with the tips of the thumb and finger
rather than broadly with the thumb and finger flat.
(iv) Form
the knot and pull firmly but not tightly, allowing the
working string to ease down under the left thumb. It may be
necessary to relax slightly the pressure of the left thumb to release
the working string into position and then to re-apply the thumb
pressure while you pull the knot firm. If the knot slips, do not
despair; it needs practice.
10. Keeping the mesh stick in position with the left hand, repeat
twice so that there are three loops on the mesh stick (Fig. 18). Do
not count the knots at the top, but the bottom of the loops formed
on the mesh stick.
2. As before, lay the string over the front and round behind the
mesh stick, and out through the first loop from the back.
3. Pull down on the needle and haul the mesh stick up to the
bottom of the first loop.
4. Form the knot, but take care, for the danger here is that the
beginner will tend to include in the knot the descending strand on
the left as well as the two strands of the first loop.
To avoid taking in this extra strand, hold the intersection with the
thumb and second finger of the left hand and use the left index
finger to mark the space between the descending strand and the
first loop, the space in fact through which your needle will pass as
it comes round the back of the loop (Fig, 21).
30
Fig. 21
Note
This in fact makes the first full mesh. Up to now what have been
called loops were in fact half-meshes.
6<^
2.
m
3.
be
4.
FiQ. 22
be
th
T
th
fii
fii
it
32
3C
The third and subsequent rows
1. Remove the mesh stick only at the end of each row and continue
meshing successive rows, always working from left to right. The
processes fall into a natural rhythm and it is useful, even desirable,
to check your work at the end of each row. With children the young
beginner is glad to offer the work for inspection at such intervals,
especially as with increasing skill the intervals are manifestly
becoming shorter each time.
2. Stop when you feel you have had sufficient practice and are
ready to apply the processes to making the first article, the football
or basketball carrier.
33
Plate
34 Football IBasketball earner
A football or basketball carrier
Required
1 medium needle
2 7-yard lengths medium string (two loads for the medium needle)
4 feet thick string
2-inch mesh stick
1 button and about 6 inches of finer string for the toggle.
carry the working string to the new level for the next round.
35
1 . Run
about 4 feet of string off the needle and form a slip knot at
least40 inches from the end of the string, but make certain that the
knot slides on the tail and not on the working string (Fig. 24a).
f\g. 24a
underneath, then pulling a small section of the tail through the first
loop and making the resulting knot firm (Fig. 24b).
^
V«^
^•^
Fig. 24b
2. Check that the knot slides on the tail. The tail should be at least
30 inches long and the loop above the slip knot 4 inches long ; if
not, pull out and re-tie correctly. It is good practice.
37
tail to make the grommet. Obviously in this case the working string
is already part of the foundation loop and does not have to be tied
on before starting.
4. See that the tail lies on the left of the working string. By the same
processes used in the first practice piece, cast on 1 1 loops over the
2-inch mesh stick.
5. Hold the mesh stick in the left hand, correctly from below with
the thumb the front. Lay the string over the front of the mesh
at
stick. (At this point do not be concerned about the mesh stick being
close up to the foundation loop.)
6. Take the string round below and up behind the mesh stick and
out through the foundation loop from the back.
Fig. 26
7. Pull the needle downwards with the righthand and the mesh
be hauled by pulley
stick will effect hard up to the bottom of the
foundation loop.
8. With the thumb and finger of the left hand, hold the working
string and the foundation loop where they cross at the top of the
mesh stick.
9. Form the netting knot by throwing a loop to the left and taking
the needle to the right, then behind both strands of the foundation
loop and out to the front through the thrown loop. Draw up the
netting knot firm and neat but not fiercely tight for ease of pulling
up later. Take care to form the knot close to the top of the mesh
stick (Figs. 26 and 27).
F/g. 21
10. Repeat 10 times to make 11 loops. You should count the loops
atthe bottom of the mesh stick and not at the top where there will
be an extra knot (Fig. 28).
Fig. 28 12 knots
/
Fig. 29
reef knot
13. Now use the tail and the working string to make an additional
(12th) loop the same size as all the other loops (Fig. 31).
either of the neighboring loops and mark the point on them level
with the base of the neighboring loop at c. At that point, tie the
tail and the working string in a double overhand knot (Fig. 32).
This is how the tail is used to carry the working string to the new
level for the next row.
14. Make up the toggle by passing the finer string through two
holes of the button and tying a reef knot below the button.
15. Thread the string of the toggle through the center of the
grommet and hang the work on a hook by the toggle, so that it can
rotate as you work round on each row (Fig. 33).
16. Place the working string on the right of the tail ready for
meshing to the right. It may help at first to keep the tail out of the
way by hitching it lightly to the hook.
42
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
43
The first row
1. Mesh round in the usual way but remove the mesh stick after
every three meshes. Do not try to force all the meshes of the
complete circle on the mesh stick at once.
Take care to mesh each loop in proper sequence and to take any
twist from the loops. It may
help you as a beginner to have an
assistant as a second pair of hands to sort the loops. With practice
however you will begin to use a second finger of the left hand to do
this for yourself.
2. After meshing the 11 th loop, the tail and the working string
must be measured with the neighbouring mesh and tied in a double
overhand knot (Fig. 34).
F<R- 35
44
The second and subsequent rows
Continue meshing round, removing the mesh stick after every 3
meshes, and at the end of each row tying the tail and the working
string in a double overhand knot.
As a check, count the meshes at the end of each round. If you have
missed any meshes it will not need much taking back. There should
of course be twelve meshes, including the last one made with the
the double overhand knot.
Alternatively you can use the same basic netting knot by turning
back the last of the working string and making a netting knot in it
with the new string (Fig. 36). This is in fact a Weaver's Knot and
makes a sound joint. (For a speedier method of making this knot
see Chapter 5, Now you can net.)
Finishing off
1. Complete 7 rows. (Count 7 rows of knots, excluding those of the
grommet.) Tie off the last double overhand knot very firmly and
cut off the ends neatly and fairly short.
3. Lace the top round of meshes with the thick string for a draw
A popular finish is made by tying the draw string in a
string.
double overhand knot, leaving both ends a good inch long (Fig. 37).
Strand the two ends and separate the fibers in each strand with an
ordinary hair comb. This makes a convincing tassel.
45
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
Alternative finish
1.After completing only 6 rows, make the double overhand knot
with the tail and the working string and cut off the remainder of
both.
46
Fig. 38
3. Tie the double string with the usual netting knot to the bottom
of any mesh other than the last one with its double overhand knot
and complete one round of double meshes over the 2-inch mesh
stick,
4. At the end of the round finish off with a netting knot on top of
the starting knot.
47
Plate 2 Shopping bog
with cane handles
48 with bottle bag in front
. :
A bottle bag
This is a quick exercise with two functions; it is a quick repeat of a
bag in circular netting to reinforce what you have learned already
and at the same time it provides a quick bag on which to introduce
handle making. Nonetheless it is a useful article and will in fact
carry a large soda bottle or a full size bottle of wine.
Required
1 medium needle (| inches wide)
2 7-yard lengths medium string
2-inch mesh stick
Button toggle
2 S-shaped hooks.
Casting on
1 The bag is made by the same method as the football or netball
carrier. Make the 4-inch loop to slide on a 30-inch tail for a
grommet start.
Handles
These are made by catching up a quarter of the meshes (in this
case 2 meshes) for each end of a handle and thickening them and
binding them together with half-hitching.
Two S-shaped hooks will be useful for this part of the work when
rigged between two chair backs. They are not essential; two
people can work together to provide the extra pair of hands
required, but hooks enable the netter to be independent. As an
alternative to hooks the work can be tied with short pieces of string
to chair backs or other suitable holders.
fig. 39
50
tie off
begin
half
hitchin
Fig. 40
51
:
3. Take the string through the next mesh to the right of the drop
knot and fasten it there with a netting knot.
4. Return the string round the hook again and through the next
mesh to the left of the drop knot and fasten it there with a netting
knot.
5. This time instead of returning the string round the hook, begin
half-hitching about half-way up the handle. The half-hitching is
(i) take the working string over and right round the two strands of
the handle and under the working string itself (Fig. 41). Pull
tight.
over Fig. 41
(ii) take the working string under and right round the two strands
and under the working string itself. Pull tight and close up to
the previous half-hitch.
53
.
Fig. 43
7. Take the string from the last half-hitch through the second
mesh to the right of the drop knot and fasten it there with a netting
knot. Cut off fairly short.
equal sized handles, but removed when you are ready to begin the
second set of half-hitching.
3. Take a turn round the hook again and knot into the mesh next
to the first mesh used for this handle.
54
Fig. 44 eipueq puooas
S I
first handle
4. Complete the half-hitching so that it is the same length as that
on the first handle and fasten off in the only remaining mesh.
Note
(i) The order of meshing on the first handle is 3, 1, 2, 4, i.e. working
outwards from the middle.
(ii) The order of meshing on the second handle is 1, 3, 4, 2, i.e.
inwards towards the middle.
Obviously there are other ways of doing this, but I recommend that
you establish this principle so that when used later with the
complication of far more meshes you will avoid the disappointment and
tedium of meshes missed or taken in the wrong order.
(iii) You work from left to
will find the half-hitching easier if you
right and if you follow the meshing order this will happen.
Working from left to right enables you to use the left hand to hold
the working strand away from the double strands of the handle,
55
while the right hand takes the needle over or under the two strands
and easily under the working string held out with the left hand.
Fingers sore ?
At this point you may find the working string has been pressing
into the first finger or the httle finger, especially if you have been
working continuously through these patterns. To ease the discomfort
or to prevent it happening, use the heel of the needle instead of pulling
the string with your hand or fingers. When applying pressure to
tighten a knot, hold the needle with the point towards the work,
grasping the needle with the working string inside the hand and
along the body of the needle the pull will then be taken on the heel
;
56
A shaped single-color
shopping bag
fiB. 45
57
.
This bag is made on the same principle as the bottle bag, but
Required
1 fine needle {\ inch wide)
1 medium needle (| inch wide)
1-inch mesh stick
2-inch mesh stick
1 button toggle
2 S-shaped hooks
5 4-yard lengths of colored medium string, for use with the fine
needle to work in the small increase meshes when making the
'
'
Casting on
1 With
a fine needle loaded with 4 yards of the string, form the
slipknot with a 4-inch loop and a 30-inch tail for a grommet start.
2. Cast on 11 loops over the 1-inch mesh stick.
3. Draw up into a grommet and secure with a reef knot.
4. Tie the tail and the working string in a double overhand knot to
make the 12th loop the same size as the other 11 loops.
6. With the 1-inch mesh stick, mesh all the way round in plain
netting, that with no increases yet, and tie off the tail and the
is
Note
In working the plain rounds y remember to remove the mesh stick after
each three or four meshes.
58
.
Note
In the increasing rounds, removing the mesh stick after an increase is a
reminder to make the increase and so avoid having to undo work and
go back to make the increase in the correct place.
8. After the 4th increase, do not be alarmed that you have only one
more mesh to work. When this one has been worked and you have
made the usual double overhand knot with the tail and the working
string, these two loops together with the first mesh at the
beginning of the round will complete the pattern of three and '
increase'.
9. Count the meshes in the complete round to check that there are
16 meshes including the small increase loops.
10. Mesh a plain round, that is with no increases, but make certain
that you mesh into all loops including the small increase loops. Check
that there are 16 meshes.
1 Mesh one and increase by meshing again into the first mesh.
6. After increasing for the 4th time in this round, you will need
only to mesh two. Make the usual double overhand knot with the
tail and the working string, and the pattern of four and increase '
7. Count the meshes in the complete round to check that there are
20 meshes including the small increase loops.
60
.
6. After the 4th increase, there will be three meshes, the double
overhand knot and the starting mesh to complete the pattern of
five.
8. Mesh a plain round, making sure that all loops including the
increases are meshed. Check that there are 24 meshes.
9. Mesh two more plain rounds and at the end of each check that
there are 24 meshes.
1. Cut off the tail and the working string fairly close.
3. Using the netting knot, fasten the double string to the bottom of
any mesh other than the last mesh made with the double overhand
knot.
4. Using the 2-inch mesh stick, mesh one round in double string.
6. Firm the last knot and cut off the double string fairly close.
6/
.
The handles
The handles are made in the same way as those of the bottle bag,
except that as there are many more meshes some are knotted
together to reduce the number of side strings. This is not
absolutely essential and may become one of your variants in later
use of the pattern, but remember that with an increased number of
side strings you will need more than the 6 yards of string specified
in this pattern for each handle.
Compare the process in making the handles for the bottle bag,
particularly the order of working the meshes, outwards for the first
" --
Fig. 47
9 10 7 5 ^ -^ ' ^ " --
first handle
3. Attach the string by tying together with a netting knot any two
neighboring meshes (Nos. 1 and 2).
4. Run the string from these two meshes, round the second S-hook
to make a 6-inch handle.
62
.
5. Take the
through the next two meshes to the right of the
string
first two Tie these two meshes together with a
tied together.
netting knot (Nos. 3 and 4).
6. Take the string back again round the S-hook and knot it to the
next mesh to the left of the start of the handle (No. 5).
7. Return over the S-hook and knot into the mesh to the right of
8. Return over the S-hook and knot into the mesh to the left of
No. 5 (No. 7).
9. Return over the S-hook and knot into the mesh to the right of
No. 6 (No. 8).
10. Return over the S-hook and knot into the two meshes to the
left of No. 7 (Nos. 9 and 10).
12. Finish off the first handle by tying off the string by knotting
together the two meshes to the right of No. 8 (Nos. 11 and 12).
2. Take the string round the S-hook and fasten it with one netting
knot to the bottom of the two unworked meshes next to the other
end of the first handle (Nos. 3 and 4).
3. Take the string round the S-hook each time and fasten side
strings to each mesh in turn following the numberings (5, 6, 7, 8
singly and 9 and 10 together).
64
A shaped shopping bag
in two colors
This is the same pattern as the single color shopping bag, but
with one difference instead of the usual tail ', a second working
; '
string is used and each one acts alternately as the tail to bring the
other colored string to the next level.
'
Bosun's Plait ' is introduced as an alternative method of finishing
the handles.
Required
2 fine needles (j inch wide)
2 medium needles (J inch wide)
65
.
Casting on
1 With a fine needle loaded with 5 yards of the darker string, cast
on 11 loops over the 1-inch meshstick as in the previous pattern,
except that the tail need only be short, say 6 inches.
2. Draw up the grommet, secure it with a reef knot and make the
12th loop the same size as the other 11 loops, using a double
overhand knot with the tail and the working string.
Note
function of the tail in circular netting is to
It will be clear that the
lower the working string to the next working level and that it is made
as an extra mesh with the working string in the double overhand knot.
It will be simpler if from now on I give this knot its functional name
and refer to it as the 'drop knot'.
5. Cut off the short end of the light string fairly close like the dark
tail.
6. Leave the dark string hanging as a tail and mesh one plain
round, that is with no increases, in the light string.
7. Make the drop knot at the end of the round with the two
different colored strings.
Fig. 48
1 Leave the Ught string hanging as a tail and work with the dark
string for the increasing round.
2. Mesh into the first mesh in the usual way and increase by
meshing again into the same mesh.
4. Mesh into the next three meshes and increase by meshing again
into the 3rd mesh.
6. Remember that after the 4th increase in this round you will
have one mesh and the drop knot to go with the first mesh of the
round to complete the pattern of 'three and increase'.
7. Tie the drop knot with the two working strings of different
colours.
8. Count the meshes in the complete round to check that there are
16 meshes including the small increase loops.
67
.
the increasing rounds and the lighter color the plain rounds, so
working with alternate colors and leaving the idling color as the
tail, continue as in the previous pattern.
5. Mesh one and increase; mesh four and increase in each 4th,
finishing the round with mesh 2 and the drop knot (20 meshes).
7. Mesh one and increase; mesh five and increase in each 5th,
finishing the round with mesh three and the drop knot (24 meshes).
3. Finish off with a netting knot directly above the starting knot.
Handles
The handles can be done by the same method as in the shaped
single color bag, that is in alternate half-hitching, but with
Fig. 49
69
Handles in Bosun's Plait
As in the single color shopping bag, use S-hooks etc. and make the
side strings in the same way, except for one difference instead of ;
leaving meshes 1 1 and 12 (Fig. 47) without a side string until the
handle has been thickened, in this case complete the side stringing,
including meshes 11 and 12. With the side strings thus completed,
they can be thickened with the new braiding.
3. Find the middle of one of the 3-yard lengths of the dark string
and tie it round the side strings about halfway up the handle with a
suitable knot. An overhand knot will do, but it is possible by
referring to the later chapter on knots to use a clove hitch or better
still a constrictor knot. This is a matter of choice and if preferred
4. If you have middled your 3 yards of string properly the ends will
be of equal length. It is as well to check that they are for it is very
annoying to have your string run short on one side before you have
finished whilst you still have an unusable abundance on the other
side.
6. (a) Lay the left hand string over the side strings, leaving a loop
on the left.
(b) Take the right hand string over the end of the left hand string,
under the side strings and out through the loop left in the left
hand string.
(c) Pull tight and evenly on both strings, making the pull at right
angles to the side strings.
8. Continue by repeating alternately 6(a), (b) and (c) and 7(a), (b)
and (c) until both sides balance.
Note 1
In estimating the amount of string required for Bosun's Plait it is as
well to allow string equal to 18 to 20 times the length of braiding
required. The amount will obviously be affected by the thickness of the
core being braided.
Note 2
If you braid consistently with either 6(a), (b), (c) or 7(a), (b), (c),
that without alternating, the plait will form itself in an interesting
is
Notes
A particularly charming two color effect can be made by using two
l^-yard lengths of string of different colors. In this case you could not
start with an overhand knot or a clove hitch etc., but you would simply
secure the two separate strands to the side strings with a temporary
lashing and later when the braiding was complete remove the temporary
fastening and thread the strands back at this end the same as at the
finishing end.
71
A woollen scarf in diamond mesh
This pattern makes an attractive scarf which is very warm and
comfortable to wear. It is an interesting change to work in a
different material. The scarf is simple to make and popular with
boys as well as girls.
72
When working with wool, care must be taken not to pull too hard
and stretch the wool or the netting will lose shape knots are ;
Required
2 ozs. double knitting wool
1-inch mesh stick
1 medium needle
A short length of fine string for casting on.
Casting on
1. Take about 14 yards of wool, middle it and load the needle
double by first hooking the middle of the wool over the prong of
the needle. This loop in the middle of the 14 yards will become the
end of the first working length and will be useful for joining on a
new length of wool.
2. For casting on, tie the short length of fine string as a headrope
between two suitable points, e.g. two chair backs or either side of
one open backed chair. It is wise not to make the headrope too
tight for some play is needed when making the clove hitches and
holding the mesh stick in position.
3. Attach the double wool to the left end of the headrope with a
clove hitch.
6. Mesh for about 5 rows over the 1-inch mesh stick. Take care
not to include in the first knot of each row the descending string
from the previous row. (See again, A first practice piece, on
page 30.)
8. At the end of a length of wool, you will be left with the loop
which was hung over the prong of the needle. The new length can
be attached with a netting knot by using the loop like a mesh.
9. After about 45 rows you should still have enough wool left to
make 30 tassels in double wool. In case of doubt, cut off sufficient
pieces for the tassels and continue netting with peace of mind.
Tassels
Note
An interesting effect is possible by using 1 ounce each of two different
coloured wools and loading the needle double with equal lengths of each
so that each mesh is made with the two colors side by side.
74
Fi2. 52
75
A shopping bag
with cane or loop handles
This is a most capacious bag, very easily netted but needing a little
Plate 5 Various types of handle finishes. Top left: bosun's Plait. Bottom left
76
Fi2. 53
Required
1 medium needle
2-inch mesh stick for starting the casting on and off processes
1-inch mesh stick for the body of the bag
2 handles in cane or looped rope
(for 25 rows)
16 4-yard lengths of fine to medium string
lengths of fine to medium string (for 35 rows).
16 5^-yard
Note
more suitable for this bag as it hangs
Fine rather than thicker string is
Handles
Suitable cane handles, 4 inches diameter, can be bought from
suppliers of craft materials or can be made by softening
fairly thick basketry cane by soaking in water
and forming
it into a circle and twisting the ends over and over as in making a
77
cord). piece about 18 inches long can be made into a circle by
A
overlapping the two ends for about 3 inches and tying the overlap
securely with fine string or splicing it properly (see Fig. 66).
handle with a clove hitch. If the tail is a nuisance, coil it and hang
it on the hook out of the way.
Fig. 54
5. It will give a neater finish if you cover the splice or joint in the
handle, so position your first clove hitch so that succeeding ones
cover that part of the handle.
6. Make oneloop over the 2-inch mesh stick and tie it securely to
the handle with another crowned clove hitch.
78
.
subsequent loops over that finger, leaving the left thumb and index
finger free to help in forming the clove hitch and
crowning knot.
its
When a number of knots have been formed like this and the finger
becomes crowded, slip them off and re-insert the finger in the last
loop and continue using that loop as the gauge. Clear the finger and
change to another last loop as often as necessary.
9. The handle is free to rotate so each row can be worked from left
to right merely by turning the work from back to front.
10. Continue meshing each row from left to right, but take care
not to include in the first knot of each row the descending strand
from the previous row. (See again, A first practice piece, on
page 30.)
Casting off
1 To cast off, move the handle from the hook and hang it by its
loop on a chair back and hang the second handle similarly on
another chair back. Position the two chairs so that the working
string will comfortably reach the second handle.
7. Continue alternately with (5) and (6) until you have attached all
meshes to the handle, finishing off with the working string attached
by a clove hitch to the handle. You will be constantly changing
position between the chairs, first facing the finishing handle to
make a crowned clove hitch, then facing the last row of meshes to
make a netting knot.
12. Do the same with the other side. The length of the side string
determines the size of the opening or mouth of the bag and you
might like to draw up and tie both the side strings temporarily to
check for size and then adjust if necessary. In either case, be sure
80
to secure both sides properly after deciding on the size.
13. The remainder of the tails will provide a string at each side
already anchored for securing and reinforcing the side meshes.
14. With these side strings work down each side making a simple
overhand knot over each side mesh (Fig. 56). You might find it a
help to fix the middle side mesh at each side with a temporary
lashing so that the meshes can be balanced fairly evenly either side
of the middle. If possible, arrange the spacing of the side meshes
more closely near the middle and less closely near the handles
(Fig. 57).
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
15. After the last side mesh has been secured, tie off the side
strings with crowned clove hitches to the appropriate handle and
cut off fairly close. For neatness the ends can be darned back under
the hitching on the handles.
Chapter 5
The Netting Knot used in this way is a Sheet Bend. The weavers
use the same knot but have a different method of tying it and
therefore claim it as the Weaver's Knot. It is very quickly tied. Try
it and you will find the result is the same and the tying of the knot
But all these methods mean a foreign knot, that is other than a
netting knot in the normal place. The following methods are
equally sound but make neater netting.
84
\-/ v/
F,g. 58
Fig. 59
85
Fig. 60
(ii) Slacken off the last knot made with the old string and double
up the knot by following the knot back with the beginning of the
new. Pull up both tight.
Fig. 61
86
A stopped end
This method is probably the neatest of all, but not necessarily the
Tie a simple overhand knot at the beginning of the new string and
lay it in position at the bottom of the next mesh. Finish off the old
string with a netting knot over the beginning of the new string and
pull up tight. Draw up the new string with its knotted end hard up
against the back of the netting knot (Fig. 61).
Increasing
The fishermen and traditional netters refer to this as 'creasing'.
Fig. 62
It will have been appreciated that in the shaped bags, the increases
were made at points determined by quartering the number of
meshes. For a sharper or slower development in shape, the number
of increases can be augmented or reduced in the row. In any case a
better shape is produced if the increases are evenly distributed in
the round.
Decreasing
Again the fishermen and traditional net-braiders have their own
term and refer to this as 'bating'. This is done by meshing two
meshes together (Fig. 63). (Compare the side strings for the handles
in the shaped bags.)
Fig. 63
A re-inforced and
straight selvedge
In a piece of flat netting in diamond mesh (e.g. the scarf) the outer
meshes at the edges hang loose. This is the normal selvedge, but it
can be strengthened and straightened by taking in the descending
strand of the loose mesh with the first knot of each row. In fact it is
doing deliberately what the beginner had to learn to avoid (Fig. 64).
Fig. 64
89
Fig. 65a
Fig. 65b
strand against the lay, that is at right angles to the twist in the rope.
Fig. 66
90
Use a marline spike (a bradawl or a pointed piece of doweling) to
liftthe strand to make an opening. Tuck the other strands of the
set in the same way, over one and under the next. Then tuck each
strand twice more, over one and under one against the lay.
(Compare the single process in eye splicing. Figs. 83a, b, c and d
on page 117.)
Release the other set of strands and tuck these in the same way at
the other side of the splice.
Remember it will neaten the work if you make the casting on loops
over the joint, whether it is overlapped or properly spliced.
early stages to use a mesh stick to establish the size of the first
mesh row and then continue using the fingers and no mesh
in the
stick. To
hold the work, use the left hand palm down, hook the
little finger and the two middle fingers in the last worked meshes,
leaving the index finger and thumb for holding the knot being
formed.
91
Netting from right to left
ng. 67
-f
If no mesh stick is left hand will be turned palm
being used, the
towards you, the and the two middle fingers holding the
little finger
last worked meshes from the back, leaving the index finger and
thumb free to help in forming the next knot.
Side strings
and thickened handles
When making string handles which are to be thickened like those
on the shaped bags, a neater finish can be achieved by attaching the
first side string and leaving a long tail later include this tail with
;
the other side strings under the half-hitching. Bosun's Plait, etc.
This saves a raw knot with its loose end.
92
Similarly, when finishing, the last side string should be tied and
cut off with a long tail which can be threaded back under the
thickening. A tapestry needle, or a blunted darning needle, will
help, but if you are going to do this often make a draw tool of
strong but fine wire mounted in a small wooden handle (Fig. 68).
Fig. 68
93
tail tail
a
b
Fig. 70
Without a tail
It is also tail by climbing down the last
possible to "work without a
mesh of each round and making a half hitch at the bottom of that
mesh. It is not as sound as the tail method and makes a
pronounced seam in the net (Fig. 70).
94
The tail underestimated
If you find that you have not allowed enough tail you can simply
tie on another piece, but it is neater to introduce working string at
the drop knot. Cut off the working string at a more satisfactory
length for a tail, carry on meshing with the old tail and when it runs
out fasten on a new working string by any of the recommended
methods.
Estimating
In making up your own patterns it is useful to be able to make a
rough estimate of size and number of meshes with a particular size
of mesh stick. From the scale drawing (Fig. 71) you will see that the
table of approximations is available. They will obviously be
approximations only, because the thickness of the string used and
consequently the size of knots will affect the overall measurement.
However they are useful as general guides.
95
1
Fig. 7
Diagonal measurement
Size of mesh stick
(in inches)
in inches
when the mesh is square
1
2
Inches
A shopping bag with an extra wide opening
This bag has a similar pattern of increases but the top has both
sides built up separately.
Make a grommet with 15 loops, plus the drop knot, over a 1-inch
mesh stick.
Mesh one and increase, mesh 4 and increase each time in the 4th
mesh (20 meshes).
Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 5 and increase each time in the 5th
mesh (24 meshes).
Divide the net into two halves of 12 meshes each and work each
half separately for three rows and an extra 4th row in double string.
Attach the working string with a netting knot to the bottom of any
mesh along the edge of the base, leaving a tail about !{ times the
intended depth of the bag. Avoid starting at a corner as for the
first few rounds working at the corners is not straightforward.
A chain start
This done by making one loop over any chosen size of mesh
is
f\g. 72
99
A basketball goal net
(sleeve netting)
This can be made either on the ring itself or on a headrope and
attached to the ring when complete.
Made on a headrope
Stretch a thin headrope between two chairbacks or similar supports.
Leave a tail of 1^ times the length of net required and cast on 22
loops over the 2-inch mesh stick using uncrowned clove hitches. Tie
both ends of the headrope together and hang on a toggle. Make the
drop knot and carry on in ordinary circular netting.
When long enough the net can be laced on to the ring with the
same kind of twine as the net.
Finishing off
Whichever method is used, the net can be finished off with a final
round made without a mesh stick to connect the bottom of each
mesh with a short bar between the knots (Fig. 73). This gives a
straight edge to the bottom, but check that it is not too small to
allow a ball to pass through.
Materials
Untreated string is useless if the nets are to remain outdoors in all
weathers. Coated string is used for commercial nets, but a thick
polypropylene, nylon or other rot-proof synthetic twine is
recommended.
100
Estimating
The above methods are standard for making cyHndrical or sleeve
netting so it will be useful to be able to estimate the size and
number of meshes needed for a particular ouroose. First find the
circumference by multiplying the diameter by 3y A basketball ring
.
Required
1 medium needle
l|-inch mesh stick
12 yards medium string and more according to size of net.
Casting on
Make a 3-inch loop in separate string as a foundation loop and hang
it on a hook. Leaving a 3-inch tail, attach the working string to the
foundation loop with a netting knot (Fig. 75). Make two loops over
the mesh stick and remove the mesh stick. The foundation loop as
usual remains on its hook throughout but at the end of each row, as
here, the mesh stick is removed and the work turned back to front
so that the next row can be worked from left to right.
^02
Fis. 74
o
The 2nd row
Mesh and increase in the last one (3 meshes,
into both loops
Fig. 76). Ifyou open out the work at this point you will see the
first complete square mesh and at each side the double string of the
selvedge which will make the side of the end meshes of the next
row.
Fig. 76
diagonally, the increases further increasing the long side and the
decreases forming the opposite side. After turning the corner it
pays to spread out the net from time to time to see how it is
developing. To avoid mistakes, it helps if you mark the decreasing
side with a piece of colored twine or wool. If the net is to be square
and not rectangular, the marker will not be necessary because you
will decrease at the end of every row. (See below, Turning the last
corner and finishing off.)
Mesh the next row and increase in the last mesh (6 meshes).
In the next row, mesh all except the last two meshes and decrease
by meshing the last two together (5 meshes).
^OS
106
A duffle-type shoulder bag
Required
1 2-inch plastic or brass ring
fishermen is excellent)
1-, ly- and 2-inch mesh sticks
55 yards medium string and 10 yards more for the double row
2 yards thick string or cord for the draw string
3-inch X 1-inch piece of soft leather or similar material for the
runner on the draw string.
Fig. 77
Casting on
Leave 36 inches and attach the working string to the ring
a tail of
with a crowned clove hitch, but instead of leaving the tail on the
left place it along the ring so that it will be overlaid by the casting
on (Fig. 78).
With the ly-inch mesh stick, cast on 1 1 loops with crowned clove
hitches and make certain that the tail is carried along under the
clove hitches. After the first mesh it may be easier to dispense with
the mesh stick and use fingers of the left hand as a gauge.
Turn the work back to front and complete the round by meshing
the unworked loops. You will now be back at the tail, so make the
usual drop knot and you are ready to continue ordinary circular
netting (12 meshes).
(i) Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 3 and increase in each 3rd mesh
(16 meshes).
(ii) Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 4 and increase in each 4th mesh
(20 meshes),
(iii) Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 5 and increase in each 5th mesh
(24 meshes).
(iv) Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 6 and increase in each 6th mesh
(28 meshes).
(v) Mesh 1 and increase, mesh 7 and increase in each 7th mesh
(32 meshes).
(vi) Mesh 14 plain rows.
(vii) With the 2-inch mesh stick, mesh one round in double string.
108
The draw string
Thread the thick cord through the top row of double meshes and
tiethe ends to the ring at the base of the bag. Wrap the piece of
leather round the two draw strings, between the top and bottom of
the net, and fasten the leather between the draw strings so that a
separate track is made for each draw string and by pushing the
runner up the bag will close and can be carried over the shoulder
like a duffle bag. The leather runner can be fastened with
bifurcated studs or stitched.
109
Plate 7 The hommock in use
no
A hammock and woven clews
Whenever I admit to being able to net, people invariably ask, '
Can
you make a hammock?' This is not surprising for although a
hammock is simple to make, a well-made string hammock is
impressive. It ispossible to make a simple hammock in square
mesh, but it is not to be compared with the genuine article in
diamond mesh.
Fig. 79
III
. ;
long loops, called the nettles, each about 20 inches long and made
of thick string (Fig. 80). The netting is begun and finished off on
the other set, so it is as well to make both clews first. For a more
elaborate and traditional woven clew, which is well worth making,
see page 114.
Fig. 80
The hammock
Required
6 I -lb balls thick string
2 inch mesh stick
large needle.
1 Leaving a 6-inch tail, attach the working string to the first loop
of the clew. The tail will be taken into the selvedge later. Using the
2-inch mesh stick, mesh into each loop of the clew. The work will
hang conveniently by the eye of the clew.
3. Make a selvedge by taking in the tail with your first knot and
mesh a plain row.
4. Reinforce the selvedge with the first mesh, mesh one more and
112
. ; '
increase, mesh 4 and increase in the 4th mesh throughout the row.
5. Reinforce the selvedge in the first mesh and mesh a plain row.
6. Reinforce the selvedge in the first mesh, mesh one more and
increase and complete the row increasing in every 4th mesh.
The two tails are used toweave between the single strings of the
loops or nettles, in a simple cross weave of over and under, but on a
steadily reducing number of strings (Fig. 82). A
long ruler or lath
of wood will be useful as a kind of heddle to sort the strings so that
alternate ones can be raised and the others lowered.
Hi
5. With the ruler or lath flat, weave it over and under the strings as
close to the eye as possible. Turn the lath on its edge to separate
into raised and lowered strings. Pass the tails through from their
respective sides. Remove the temporary fastenings, pull the tails
115
.
taut and pack them firmly up into the weave towards the eye. This
can be done conveniently by turning the lath flat again and using it
still between the strings as a packer.
6. Remove the lath and replace it in similar fashion, but with two
differences this time ignore the outer strand at each side and use
;
the lath to go under the strings where previously you went over and
vice versa. Pass the tails through again from their respective sides
and pack them firmly up into the weave.
3. Take strand a over the strand under which b was tucked and
tuck a under the next strand. It will enter the space where b
emerges (Fig. 83c).
5. Pull up all strands hard and at right angles to the lay of the rope.
6. Take each strand in turn again over a strand and under the next,
so that no two strands enter or come out through the same place.
\\6
F,g. 83
17
Plate 9 A coast crab pot seen against a background of plain netting
118
The coast crab pot
This is left to the last because it is far less simple than the
hammock many people even more charming as a piece of
but for
functional netting. One fisherman called the pot a bit of old '
Fig. 84
The cover
The cover is themain piece of netting and consists of a rectangle of
plain netting big enough to be stretched from AD, over the top to
BC and later secured along each side at AE, EFG, GB, DK, KLM
and MC.
Mesh sufficient plain rows to cover the top and ends, allowing for
bracing to the sides. Keep trying it for size and when big enough
cast off with clove hitches to the foundation rope along BC.
Make 2 more half meshes with clove hitches on AE, taking in the
nearest side meshes of the cover. Make a 3rd half mesh clove hitched
to EF at the other side of E, taking in the nearest side mesh of the cover.
Make 2 more half meshes clove hitched along EF and taking in the
nearest side meshes of the cover.
By meshing straight across from the last clove hitch to the bottom
of the 1st half mesh which straddles F, you begin a spiral of
netting which will need no tail or drop knot. Continue netting
clockwise, first into the half meshes and subsequently into full
meshes until the spout shows 3 full meshes at F.
Leave the second spout until you have completed the next section,
the plain wall, and you will find the cover will be fixed more
satisfactorily by completing one side first.
\2\
The plain wall
FGBP walled in with plain netting to complete one side and
is
Mesh back along all the half meshes on FG, finishing tightly with a
clove hitch on GB,
taking in the appropriate side mesh of the
cover. Mesh back along the full meshes, finishing tightly with a
clove hitch to FP. Take the working string tightly to the foundation
rope and clove hitch it there. Work along PB and in turn mesh each
full mesh and brace them to the foundation rope, finishing tightly
atB.
It is through this quickly released door that the baiting is done and
the catch removed.
\23
Once started on netting, the net-maker will be interested in
knotting generally. The following scheme of knots was planned for
teachers, but will be useful to all ; it will certainly be eagerly
assimilated by children. Ideally knots should not be taught
divorced from their function, but knotting is a skill which children
and many adults will practice for its own sake. Consequently I
would have suitable lengths of string ready for them to use and
examples for them to follow so that they can practice them while
waiting.
The adult netter, teacher or not, may also like to have this scheme
of knots to practice on, for it is true that knotting and 'playing with
string' are useful manipulative exercises. It is a truism, but
painfully obvious in practice, that those who take readily to
netting are those who are good at manipulative crafts and hobbies.
Therefore anything which helps develop manipulation helps netting
and since string has such an intrinsic appeal, knotting practice is
ideal for the purpose.
Hg. 85
'25
^
J
Fig. 86
point by pulling the working string right through the last loop.
Fig. 87
126
^
opposite directions, that is the same working end is used first from
one direction and then again from the other. The old mnemonic
still helps avoid the Granny right over left and under, left over
'
'
;
right and under. The first right and the second left are in fact the
same end which has changed sides (Fig. 89).
fig. 89
\ y
V
\TJ
Fig. 90
Fig. 93
'29
:
The Bowline
This is probably the most respected of all knots. If you can tie a
bowline you will be acclaimed as one who knows his knots. It is in
fact an elaborate form of overhand knot for the working string is
taken in and out through a loop in the main part during the
making of an overhand knot. Most people find the knot difficult at
first and it is not only children who use the story mnemonic
f\g. 94
130
The Half Hitch
This is an uncompleted overhand knot, made over a line or stick
etc., and can be made over or under (Fig. 95).
©
\-
Q
\ F,g. 95
f\g. 96
\3\
The Constrictor Knot
This is a clove hitch with an overhand knot under the bar or
crossing strand (Fig. 98a and b). First make a clove hitch, then with
the two free ends make an overhand knot. It is useful for securing
or seizing and therefore widely used in decorative knotting; for
instance we could use
it to fasten the middle of a string for Bosun's
used for fastening the neck of a bag and in such cases can
Plait. It is
be pre-formed and slipped into place and pulled taut.
F\g. 98
a b
The Lark's Head Knot
A more attractive name than its alternative Cow Hitch (Fig. 99).
Fig. 99
132
Contrast this knot with the clove hitch and see it also as a broken or
'spilled' reef knot. It is useful for a quick hitch in a loop, for
instance putting a string loop on cane handles to hang on a hook
and for casting on loops on a ready made grommet (Fig. 100).
Fig. 100
Fig. 101
'33
The Turk's Head
This is probably the best known of all the decorative knots.
Supposedly named after the turban headdress, it looks extremely
complicated but once mastered it is easy to make and its fascination
so great that you have to resist the temptation to put a Turk's Head
everywhere (Fig. 102).
Fig. 102
Fig. 103
34
2. Turn to the back of the work and pass the right strand over the
left or in other words towards a (Fig. 103c and d).
F\g. 103
"N
along each other's track (Fig. 103f ). This is in fact what they do.
First work a back along b, following the same over and under
pattern as b and being careful to lay a always on the same side of b
until you return to the starting point. Now take b along a in the
other direction, taking the same care with the over and under and
135
positioning of b. On returning to the start, the knot will have been
trebled and needs only to be worked up tight and the ends can be
cut off short enough to be unseen.
ftg. 104
\^6