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Copyright © 2012 Helen S.

Fletcher
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 1479127086
ISBN 13: 9781479127085
eBook ISBN: 978-1-62347-336-5
Helen S. Fletcher, St. Louis, Missouri
European Tarts, Divinely Doable Desserts with Little or No Baking
Dedication

For the two youngest loves of my life – Sam and John


for being Sam and John and bringing so much joy into
my life.
Top Left, Fresh Fruit Tart, page 37
Top Right, Walnut Lace Tart, page 77
Bottom Left, Triple Chocolate Tart, page 96
Bottom Right, Chocolate Caramel Truffle, Tart, page 50
European Tarts Table of Contents

Foreward
Introduction
About the Blog Photography
Culinary Terminology
Ingredients
Equipment
Weight and Measurement Chart

Crusts
neral Notes on Crusts
in Press In Crust
ocolate Press in Crust
ocolate Crumb Crust
in Graham Cracker Crust

Curd Tarts
neral Notes on Curds
anberry Curd
ocolate Cranberry Tart
mon Curd
esh Blueberry Lemon Tart
mon Raspberry Tarts
me Curd
rgarita
ange Curd
ange Blossom Tart

Pastry Cream
neral Notes on Pastry Cream
esh Fruit Tart
ricot Crumble Tart

Truffle Tarts
neral Notes on Truffle Tarts
fé au Lait Truffle Tart
ramel
ocolate Caramel Truffle Tart
ocolate Chip Truffle Tart
ocolate Mint Truffle Tart
ocolate Truffle Tart with Candied Cranberries
ocolate Strawberry Truffle Tart
ocolate Raspberry Truffle Tart
pical Truffle Tart

Nut Tarts
neral notes on Nuts
mond Raspberry
anberry Linzer
ney Almond
ocha Glazed Macadamia Caramel
anut Butter Mousse
Mores
alnut Lace
ocolate Walnut Lace
ocolate Raspberry Walnut Lace
spberry Walnut Lace

Miscellaneous Tarts
ocolate Coconut
ocolate Pear Tart
ach Frangipane Tart with Rosemary
m Raisin Tart
ple Chocolate Tart
Foreward
When I first started my bakery, Truffes, Inc, some people
warned that pastries made totally from scratch using all
butter, 40% cream, the best of chocolate and nuts, with no
box mixes, no bucket fillings and icings couldn’t possibly
make a profit. My belief that quality, consistency and service
always sell kept me going in the lean, early years. However,
it didn’t happen all at once and we were, as many
successful businesses, a ten-year “overnight” success.

From a background as a food writer, consultant and


traveling teacher, I wanted to find a way to stay in town and
do what I did best - bake. Having written articles that
appeared in Bon Appétit, Chocolatier and The Pleasures of
Cooking as well as authoring my first book, “The New Pastry
Cook”, I gained some name recognition in St. Louis. With
one client to start, I began Truffes, Inc., my upscale,
handmade, wholesale pastry business. In the beginning, I
started out of my house with a timetable of 6 months to see
if I liked baking on a daily basis to the demands of clients
instead of for myself, family and friends on an infrequent
basis. I had promised my husband I would not turn our home
into my place of business. As my clientele grew and I
became known for unusual wedding cakes, it soon became
clear that I would need to find a commissary from which to
work. Because of the sheer cost of equipping a bakery, I set
out to find a suitable spot which already had an established
food service. This period was probably the most frustrating
time in my business life. I looked everywhere and at
anything that might work - even if I had to share it. I asked
every one I knew, even remotely, if they knew of anywhere
and finally a client told me about my location.

Although not equipped as a bakery, but set up for food,


we quickly got rid of deep fat fryers and steam tables, and
added ovens, refrigeration, a freezer and a 12 quart and 20
quart mixer in addition to my 5 quart mixer from home.
When I was working out of my house, I stored all of my
equipment in my son’s former bedroom. After seeing the
shelves of equipment one day, he exclaimed in dismay that
I had turned his room into a “warehouse”. All of this
equipment was moved into my 800 square foot commissary.
I was on my way and I couldn’t decide in the beginning
whether I was excited and happy or just plain scared to
death. It changed from minute to minute as I saw, in very
short order, just how much I had to learn - and quickly!

In the beginning, everything was made to order. The


client would call on a Monday or Tuesday and we would
deliver on Thursday or Friday. With enough business to keep
me busy 3 days a week doing the baking and finishing, pan
washing and cleaning, it became evident that more clients
were needed. So I added salesman to my growing list of
newly developing talents. The first three years were such a
steep learning curve, I almost fell off more than once. When
I first started the business, I sold what I wanted to make.
However, it didn’t take long for me to listen to my clients to
learn what they wanted. In the beginning I didn’t make a
carrot cake, not because they aren’t good, but my line was
more European and I felt it didn’t really fit in.

It took me a while to catch on and decide if I were going


to make a carrot cake, as it appeared I had to, it would have
to be the best one around. I learned, but sometimes it took
me longer than it should have. However, my saving grace
was I started learning faster and faster as the company
grew at a rapid pace.
I soon hired my first dishwasher for 3 days a week and
thought I was living mighty high.

I continued to add part time help to make Press-In crusts


for the tarts, chop chocolate, squeeze lemons and do some
of the other more time consuming chores. Soon, full time
help was needed, more space was required, and the line
was turned from made to order to frozen, in order to keep
up with our competition. The product line was culled and
anything that did not thaw and retain its quality was
eliminated. I did regular assessments of my competition and
it became apparent we could not sustain growth as a made
to order business. Especially, since it became obvious that
our main competition was large distributors that brought in
frozen desserts from out of town. In addition to a much
more stable product with a longer shelf life, the distributors
could offer next day delivery, which I couldn’t. To solve that
problem we took over the adjacent 800 square foot bay,
broke through the wall and added, what we thought at the
time to be a monstrous combination refrigerator/freezer. The
plan worked better than expected and within a few months
we were crowding our freezer something fierce. Fifteen
months later we took another bay, opened another door,
added another freezer, a cutting machine and a packaging
machine to ease our labor problems as well as equipped the
bakery with more ovens, and larger mixers. With 2400
square feet and approximately 100 clients, our biggest
problem was to wean our wonderful clients away from their
favorites and let us add new items. They always wanted the
new but hated to give up anything old. With about 100
items offered, it was difficult sometimes to keep up. But
quality and consistency whether in product or service
remained our guide and we went to great lengths to be of
help.

The most important thing I have learned is that anyone,


with or without specialized training, (I have had no training)
but a keen interest in a subject, can master that subject if
they just remember to enjoy it as they go. Almost all of my
employees, had little to no baking experience, but they
learned to produce all the items in this book and a great
deal more. To say I have not experienced great frustration
would be to misrepresent reality. However, learning to work
with people, being able to help my clients, learning so much
of the nitty-gritty of running a successful business has given
me more pleasure than I fear I have returned. And even on
my worse day, I still loved it!
Introduction

In the
Beginning
Left, Rum Raisin Tart, page 94
Right, Honey Almond Tart, page 70
European Tarts Introduction
The uniqueness of this book lies in the fact that all of these
tarts were made in my bakery, Truffes, Inc. in St. Louis,
Missouri for more than 23 years and sold wholesale to
restaurants, caterers and hotels. Although they were
produced in quantity at the bakery, each recipe and their
component parts have been tested and re-tested for a single
recipe made in a home kitchen for this book. There are many
factors that are different when baking for production and
baking at home. Key among them are ovens used, various
mixer sizes (we had five different sized mixers that could
accommodate bowls from 5 quarts to 80 quarts) as well as
ingredients not available to consumers. While this book uses
seedless red raspberry jam, at the bakery we used a product
called European Raspberry Filling from Henry and Henry. It
was bake proof, meaning it would not turn liquid when baked
and it had more body for piping, making it much easier to
use than jam, which loses its body when whisked for piping.
However, I have fortified the jam used in this book so it
works fine and there is no difference in taste. Emulsified
powdered sugar is another example. We could sprinkle items
with emulsified powdered sugar and it would not liquefy in
the refrigerator or on thawing as will normal powdered sugar.
At home, sprinkling with powdered sugar when ready to
serve solves this problem.

At the shop, we made large amounts of lemon curd,


pastry cream, press-in crusts, buttercream and cream glaze
among other things so they would be readily available when
we needed them. We never knew when an order for 500 to
1500 pieces of a single dessert would be ordered. Having
stock items available meant we didn’t have to turn down
orders because short notice.

One of the advantages of these recipes, is the majority of


them can be made and frozen which is how we sold them to
our customers. Caterers and hotels want frozen desserts
because they are much easier to cut and plate than thawed
desserts. They are plated on site, put on huge racks, covered
and held either in a cooler (refrigerator) or at room
temperature. If the item was to be thawed first, as in the
case of restaurants, we specified to thaw them in their boxes
to avoid condensation on the top of the tarts. By thawing in
the boxes, the condensation, which naturally forms, goes to
the top of the box, not the top of the tart. I could always tell
if our suggestion was adhered to by looking at the thawed
product. In the case of these tarts made at home, it is best to
thaw them in the refrigerator the day before use, covered, if
possible. Foil may be used to cover them if used loosely.

This is the ideal book with which to start baking. Made in


9x3/4 inch or 11x 3/4 inch deep quiche pans with removable
bottoms, twenty-one of the twenty-seven tarts require no
baking other than the crust. With a few exceptions, the
crusts are either a graham cracker type crust or a cookie
dough crust that are pressed into the pans. European tarts,
as I use the term, refers to a short profile pastry, usually not
more than one and one half inches tall. They are beautifully
finished and the taste belies their ease of preparation. While
short in stature, these tarts are rich and intense in flavor.
Although some of the finishes may look difficult to a novice,
all are very easy to execute with just a little practice. This is
definitely a confidence building book. Each of the recipes
found in this book were used in my bakery and, as such,
have been tested and retested over the years. In addition to
the full sized tarts, individual tartlets may be made using 3
1/2 to 4 3/4 inch tartlet shells. The 11 inch tarts will make 9
to 10 individuals and the 9 inch tarts make 7 to 8 individual
tartlets. Simply divide the recipes by the number of tartlets,
fill and finish as directed for the full sized tarts.

While professional bakers and pastry chefs always use


scales to weigh ingredients as opposed to using measuring
cups for volume, I have included cups, grams and ounces so
anyone can use and follow the recipes although I strongly
recommend weighing for accuracy and speed.

Each chapter includes general notes applying to all of


the recipes in that chapter. It is most helpful to read these
notes before embarking on a recipe.

These recipes are the basis for your own imagination.


Mix and match or use one or more components to enhance
your own ideas.

Because there were too many photographs to include in


this book, there is an accompanying blog;
www.europeantarts.com that consists of how-to photographs
as an additional assist.
About The Photography
Not so candid photography
About The Photography
T. Mike Fletcher’s photographic career has taken him all
over the world with assignments for editorial, advertising,
corporate and political photography for decades. He entered
the world of food photography to illustrate his wife’s first
book, “The New Pastry Cook” and has collaborated with her
ever since.

A finished picture of most of the tarts is featured within


the book to give you a reference to what the finished tart
should look like.

Because it is impossible to include as many how-to


photographs as I would like within the book, a companion
blog, www.europeantarts.com has been set up to reference
these. Look in the search box or the index. I have cross-
indexed photos and items to make things as easy as
possible.

The number of how-to photos varies and depends upon


what is important in that particular tart. For instance, the
procedure for making a glaze or truffle filling is the same no
matter what the ingredients, so that procedure is shown
once. The same goes for the crusts. Lemon curd is featured
but the procedure is the same for all the other curds.
Culinary Terms

Have you ever wondered


what the difference
is between beating
and whisking?
Culinary Terms
This is a listing of baking terms as used in this book.

Add refers to putting or mixing another ingredient into a


recipe.

Beat refers to vigorously mixing ingredients together either


by hand or with a mixer as the recipe directs. According to
“Food Lovers Companion”, “110 hand strokes equals 1
minute of beating with a mixer.” Personally I’m not going to
challenge that!

Bake. To cook in an oven with dry heat. It is important to


check an oven frequently with an oven thermometer as an
oven can bake hot or cold in which case the temperature
must be lowered or increased accordingly by that amount. A
clean oven is essential to even baking. One way to help
keep an oven clean is to line the bottom with foil, making
sure vent if openings are cut out if using a gas oven. It is
simple to remove the foil and replace it with new. As ovens
age, they tend to develop hot spots which will brown faster.
Turning the pan in the oven so the opposite, less browned
side is to the hot spot can even out the baking.

Basket weave is a design used to finish pastries. It


generally uses a special #47 or #48 basket weave pastry
tip. It is made by piping rows about 1/2 inch apart across the
tart. Turn the tart one-quarter turn and pipe another row in
the same manner and lastly, repeat one more time. The
edge is finished with a decorative finish. The Chocolate
Caramel Truffle Tart is an example.
Beat until stiff. Meringue and whipped cream are often
directed to beat until stiff. A mixer is usually used for this
task and it is fitted with the whisk attachment. The
ingredients are beaten slowly at first, and then moved up
increasingly to high. There are several stages to beating
these products. Chantilly stage is reached when the cream
just begins to thicken but doesn’t hold a peak. The soft peak
stage is reached when the whisk is withdrawn and the peaks
droop over but do not stand straight up. Medium peaks refer
to peaks that barely hold a peak straight up without
drooping. Stiff peaks are very firm and stand straight up
when the beater is withdrawn.

Blanch. To blanch or blanching refers to immersing a fruit


or vegetable in boiling water briefly and then plunging them
into cold water to stop the cooking. It is used to loosen skins
for removal, set the color of vegetables (think green beans,
broccoli) and flavor before freezing. Blanching also refers to
plunging nuts into boiling water to remove their skins.

Blanks are the term used to describe a product that is


partially finished such as a tart that is filled with pastry
cream. It can be refrigerated or frozen until it is needed. If
frozen, it is thawed and finished with fresh fruit on top or
used in any manner desired.

Blend refers to combining two are more ingredients


together using a spoon, mixer or beater. This is usually done
on low to medium speed with a mixer and paddle
attachment, as it is undesirable to beat in a lot of air.

Blind Baking a Shell refers to the shell being baked


without a filling. Depending upon the type of crust, the shell
is lined with foil and filled with beans to keep it in place and
prevent it from shrinking or falling down when baking. About
2/3 of the way through baking the foil and beans are
removed and the shell is put back in the oven to finish
baking. When cooled, it can be used for any number of
unbaked fillings.

Boil refers to heated water that vigorously bubbles and


reaches a sea level temperature of 212 degrees.

Chevron refers to a line in the shape of a V. As a decoration


in pastry, it is made by piping lines across a pastry and
then, with a toothpick or bamboo skewer, lightly draw a line
straight down through the piping. At the bottom, move over
the desired width and draw a line straight up. Continue
across the product. So it is a down and up motion that
produces the V. The Lemon Raspberry Tart is an example.

Cover Directly refers to plastic film being placed directly


on top of the item not over the bowl. There should be no air
bubbles between the item and the film. This prevents the
top from getting a skin on top and keeps it from drying or
cracking.

Cream. This has two meanings. 1. Cream is the milk fat that
rises to the top of milk after it sits. It comes in various
forms, depending upon the amount of milk fat it contains.
Coffee cream, half and half (consisting of half milk and half
cream), whipping cream which is 36% fat and 40% or heavy
cream that is 40% fat are among the most common
products available to consumers. 2.To cream refers to
beating an ingredient or several ingredients (most notably in
baking, butter and sugar) until soft, lightened in color,
increased in volume and homogeneous.

Crush. To pulverize by reducing food to its smallest form as


in crumbs, paste or powder.

A mortar and pestle, rolling pin or food processor are some


of the tools used to accomplish this.
Curd. As used in this book curds refers to a preserve with a
thick consistency made from fruit, butter, eggs, and sugar.
See the Curd Chapter.

Cutting - To professionally cut the tarts, you need a tall


container large enough that a bread knife can fit into. Fill it
with the hottest tap water available. Have several paper
towels next to the container. After releasing the tart, dip the
knife in the hot water to heat it and quickly wipe it dry.
Immediately, make the first cut. If the tart is chocolate, let
the knife melt the chocolate slightly before cutting straight
down. Slide the knife out of the tart at the bottom. Do not
bring the knife up to the top. Reheat and re-wipe the knife
for every cut.

European Tarts is the name I gave to a classification of


tarts in our bakery line. They were made in shallow quiche
pans of various sizes and could be sweet or savory.

Fold. The purpose of folding is to combine a light, usually


aerated mixture with a heavier mixture. The lighter mixture
is poured on top of the heavier mixture, sometimes with
flour or another ingredient to be folded in. A rubber spatula
is plunged into the center of the bowl all the way to the
bottom. The spatula is moved across the bottom of the bowl
and up the nearest side, turning the mixture over so the
heavier mixture is to top. The bowl is turned about an eighth
of a turn while continuing the folding motion. It is important
to fold gently as well as quickly with as few strokes as
possible to keep the mixture from losing air which is often
the only leavening agent used (as in sponge).

Frangipane is of French derivation and is used as a filling in


pastries. It uses almonds and sometimes crème patisserie.

Glaze is a thin, shiny coating for either cold or hot foods,


which are poured on in a liquid, state and allowed to set up.
Lattice is a finish used on pastry where strips of dough are
overlapped so that the product underneath shows through.
The Cranberry Linzer Tart is an example.

Liquefy. To make an ingredient liquid by processing,


blending or heating.

Mix refers to stirring together lightly by hand or with a


mixer, usually a few items that are to be added to another
mixture.

Off Heat is exactly what it says. Take the pan off the heat


before proceeding.

Partially baked refers to baking a crust or other item only


incompletely. It is then filled or topped and put back into the
oven to finish baking. This technique is used when the filling
or topping will be in the oven only a short time, which will
not allow the crust to bake through.

Pastry Cream is the English name for the French crème


patisserie that is used for filling many pastries or as an
ingredient in other fillings. It consists of milk, eggs, sugar,
vanilla (or other flavorings), and a thickener such as
cornstarch, flour and/or gelatin. See the Pastry Cream
chapter.

Press-in Crusts are tart crusts that require no rolling out. A


portion of the crust is pressed against the side of the pan
with the remainder pressed onto the bottom. See the Crust
Chapter.

Pricking refers to a fork or a tool called a docker making


small holes in dough; particularly the bottom of crusts to
keep them from rising or bubbling up when baked blind.

Process or processing._As used in this book, refers to the


act of using a food processor.
Puree. Any food that is finely mashed to a smooth
consistency. The food, usually fruit or vegetables, is cooked
first then put in a processor or blender or forced through a
sieve.

Release. To release an item refers to getting it out of its


container. There are several ways depending upon what you
are releasing. Often the item is refrigerated to firm up and
the edges are heated with a blowtorch or heat gun at which
point it will slide down. For the short quiche pans used in
this book, a pointed offset spatula is most helpful by
inserting it between the pan and the crust. It usually suffices
to do this every 5 or six scallops and is not necessary on
every crust.

Shell is another name for a container that holds food such


as a crust, chocolate or candy shell. It can also refer to the
outer coating of a nut.

Simmer refers to the temperature a liquid that reaches a


temperature of 180 degrees. It has small bubbles around
the edge of the container or breaking the surface.

Sprinkle. To lightly shower a surface or an item with flour,


powdered sugar or another ingredient.

Steam, to. Steaming preserves the shape and texture of


many foods because it is a more gentle way of cooking than
boiling or poaching directly in water. A rack is placed in a
pan with simmering water on which a bowl or pan can be
placed with the food in it. The rack must be high enough to
keep the pan with the food out of the water. The larger pan
is covered with a lid to allow the steam to cook the food. A
steamer basket can also be used. It has feet on it to keep
the food out of the water. See the Chocolate Truffle Tarts
with Candied Cranberries.
Stir. To move ingredients around a bowl or pan using a
spoon or other utensil.

Tart as used here refers to a shallow pastry that is filled. It


can be baked or unbaked. It is made in a tin with fluted
sides and a removable bottom and can be made in a variety
of sizes.

Toast, to. As used in this book, refers to browning nuts or


coconut in an oven. Toasting brings out the flavor. If the nuts
are to be ground, make sure they are completely cooled first
if using a processor or they can easily turn into a paste.

Toss, to. Refers to very lightly mixing ingredients by tossing


them with a fork so they don’t compact.

Very Hot refers to liquid that is heated to just below the


simmering point or about 175 degrees.

Whipped Cream. Whipping cream with 36% milk fat or


40% or heavy cream with 40% milk fat is beaten with a
whisk in a mixer (usually) to trap air and expand in volume.
Powdered sugar and vanilla or other flavorings can be
added. It can go through several stages from chantilly,
which is just thickened to very firm, which can be piped or
used to frost a cake. We whipped 40% cream to finish
several of our cakes as it has a higher fat content that
makes it hold up much better. We also froze them. Other
than the powdered sugar and vanilla, no stabilizers were
ever added. The cakes thawed with no harm to the whipped
cream frosting.

Whisk. To whisk or whisking refers to a specific tool (see


Equipment Section) that mixes ingredients more thoroughly
than a spoon or fork. It can also be used to whip cream by
hand and remove lumps from dry ingredients.
Ingredients

What you need for


what you want to do
Ingredients
This compendium relates to the ingredients used in this
book.

Almond Extract is a flavoring made by combining bitter


almond oil with ethyl alcohol. Extracts are very
concentrated flavoring agents that are usually made
through evaporation or distillation. The value of extracts lies
in the intense flavor that can be added without altering the
consistency or adding volume to the product.

Almond Paste is made with ground almonds, sugar and


glycerin or other liquid and can be flavored with almond
extract. It should not be confused with marzipan, which is
similar but sweeter and bound with egg whites. It is used in
decorations and can be rolled out and applied to cakes just
as fondant is used. Almond paste is used as an ingredient
whereas marzipan is a final product.

Amaretto is an almond flavored liqueur. It originally came


from Saronno, Italy.

Apricots, dried. Dried apricots are used here to produce


lekvar, which is an intense apricot filling of Hungarian origin.
When reconstituting the apricots do not cover the pan as
most dried apricots are treated with sulfur to help retain
their color. By leaving the pan uncovered, the taste of sulfur
is erased.

Baking Powder is a leavener consisting of baking soda, an


acid such as cream of tartar and a moisture-absorbing
ingredient such as cornstarch. When mixed with liquid
carbon dioxide gas is released causing the product to rise.
There are two type of baking powder. Single acting
baking powder releases its gas as soon as moisture is
introduced. Double acting baking powder releases part
of its gas when moisture is introduced and the remainder
when heat is applied. Double acting baking powder is the
most commonly used and is readily found on supermarket
shelves. It should be kept in a cool, dry place, as it is
perishable. To test the powder, combine 1 teaspoon with 1/3
cup hot water. It should bubble vigorously if it is good.

Brandy is liquor distilled from wine or fermented fruit juice.


Aging in wood contributes to the flavor and color.

Butter is made by churning cream until it separates into a


semisolid and a liquid known as curds (solids) and whey
(liquid). If you care to experiment, butter can be made at
home by whipping 40% or heavy cream until it turns to
butter. I was renowned at one position I held for having
turned 16 quarts of cream into butter by simply about
forgetting it while it was whipping. It became known as
“Helen’s Butter”. The good news was, we used every bit of
it! On August 31, 1989 the United States Department of
Agriculture (USDA) established standards for grades of
butter based on flavor, body, texture, color and salt (if
present). Butter must be at least 80 percent milk fat with
the remaining 20 percent water and milk solids. The grades
are based on a score of 100 with AA being the finest at 93, A
at 92 and B at 90. AA and A are the most commonly
available. Butter may be colored with annatto and can be
salted or unsalted, which is often referred to as sweet butter
as opposed to salted butter. Salt is used as a preservative.
Salted butter will stay fresher longer than unsalted butter. If
buying unsalted butter in large amounts it is safer to freeze
it if it is not being used within two weeks to preserve its
flavor. Butter absorbs flavors around it so it should be stored
tightly wrapped. The recipes in this book use only unsalted
butter. There are also butters from Europe that have a
higher milk fat percentage. All recipes in this book are based
on US butter. Brown Butter is used as a flavoring agent. It
is made by heating butter until it comes to a boil. Reduce
the heat to a simmer and cook it until the milk solids, which
will drop to the bottom of the pan, turn a golden brown.
Care must be taken as the solids go from golden to burned
quickly.

Chocolate comes from a tropical cocoa bean. The beans


are removed from their pods, fermented, dried, roasted and
cracked to remove the nibs. Grinding the nibs to remove
some of the cocoa butter leaves a thick, dark paste called
chocolate liquor that will undergo further refining. If
additional cocoa butter is removed and the remainder is
ground, it becomes cocoa powder. At this point, additional
ingredients such as sugar or milk may be added and the
chocolate will be further refined. Before the chocolate is
packaged for sale, it is conched for 12 to 72 hours. Conching
consists of rotating blades slowly blending the heated
chocolate to remove additional moisture and volatile acids.
Chocolate is marketed as unsweetened, bittersweet,
semisweet, sweet and milk chocolate containing at
least 12 percent milk solids (in the form of dry milk) and
10 percent chocolate liquor. Companies usually offer
more than one kind in any of these categories. White
chocolate is not actually chocolate. It is a blend of cocoa
butter, sugar, milk solids, lecithin and vanilla or vanillin. It is
important to read the label and if it doesn’t contain cocoa
butter it is confectionary coating or summer coating which
doesn’t melt as does white chocolate. In recent years, the
percentage of cocoa solids has been creeping upward with
85% being the current high. This produces an intensely
chocolaty chocolate, which is very smooth.

When liquefying chocolate, it is important to keep if from


getting too hot and to keep any moisture from reaching it as
the chocolate can seize which simply means gum up with no
apparent way of getting it smooth. If this happens, you can
add a little vegetable shortening or cocoa butter a little at a
time to get it back to a liquid consistency. Although I have
seen chocolate being melted in the microwave at full power,
I prefer the safer method of melting it at 50% power. It can
also be melted in a double boiler over barely simmering
water. When adding liquid to chocolate add 1/4 cup or more
liquid to 6 ounces or less chocolate to prevent seizing.

Cinnamon is a widely used spice in cooking and baking


both sweet and savory. It comes in cinnamon sticks also
called quills, ground to a powder form and oil. The quills are
used whole to flavor a liquid and the powdered form is used
in every form of cooking and baking including sweet and
savory. Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tropical evergreen
tree. There are a number of species sold as cinnamon.
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) is considered the true cinnamon dating
back to Chinese writings from 2800 B.C. It is considered less
sweet with a more complex, citrus flavor. There is Korintje
cinnamon that is Indonesian with a smooth flavor and less
bite. It comes from the southwest coast of Sumatra where it
grows wild on government-protected slopes of Mount
Kerinci. Vietnamese cinnamon and Cassia or Chinese
cinnamon are native to Southeast Asia, especially southern
China and Northern Vietnam. It has a strong, spicy-sweet
flavor that is sold in supermarkets.

Cocoa Powder. Powdered, unsweetened chocolate liqueur.


Dutch cocoa has been treated with an alkali to help
neutralize chocolates natural acidity. It is considered milder
than regular cocoa powder that has a more assertive taste.
Either one may be used in this book.

Cocoa Butter is a cream colored vegetable fat which is the


by-product of making chocolate and cocoa powder.
Coconut as used in this book refers to packaged shredded,
sweetened coconut. It can be used as it comes or toasted,
as the recipe calls for.

Coconut Macaroon Cookies are sold in supermarkets and


are used for a crust. They are firm, crispy and are flavored
with coconut.

Cornstarch is a powder obtained from the endosperm of


the corn kernel. It can be used as a thickener as well as an
anti-clumping agent as in powdered sugar.

Cornsyrup made by mixing cornstarch with acids or


enzymes, is thick, sweet syrup. It comes in light, which is
clear, and dark which is almost black and has a distinct
flavor. It deters sugar crystallization when added to sugar
syrups.

Cream is the byproduct of unhomogenized milk that, upon


standing, separates into two layers, a rich cream on top and
skim milk on the bottom. While there are many varieties of
cream, the one used in this book is heavy cream or 40%
cream. It is used in this book both whipped and unwhipped.
Half and Half is a mixture of equal parts of milk and cream
with 10 to 12 percent fat.

Cream Cheese is an original American cheese developed in


1872 from cow’s milk. Its spreadable consistency makes it
popular in both savory cooking and sweet baking. By law, it
must contain a minimum of 33 percent butterfat and not
more than 55 percent moisture.

Neufchatel cheese is the lower version with 23 percent


butterfat and less moisture. Lower fat cream cheese can be
substituted in most recipes unless otherwise stated.

Cream of Coconut is made from coconut paste, water and


sugar. It often separates in the can and should be whisked
to bring it together before using. Do not confuse this with
coconut milk, which is a different product and can’t be
substituted.

Dark Rum (see rum)

Eggs as used in baking come from hens and are graded and
sized by the USDA. Eggs are graded AA, A, B and C in
descending order with the classification being determined
by both exterior and interior qualities with the freshness of
the egg the main criteria. Exterior quality is determined by
shape, texture, soundness and cleanliness. Interior quality is
determined by the size of the air cell between the white and
shell at the large end of the egg (the smaller the size of the
air cell, the higher the quality and freshness of the egg).
Also important is the portion and density of the white and
the firmness and defects of the yolk. In fresh eggs both the
white and the yolk stand high when cracked. Eggs are sold
by the weight of a dozen eggs. Each egg does not
necessarily weigh the same but they must total the given
amount for the specified size. Jumbo size is 30 ounces, extra
large is 27 ounces, large is 24 ounces, medium is 21 ounces,
small is 18 ounces and pee wee is 15 ounces per dozen.
Large eggs are the most used in baking and the eggs
specified in this book. The exterior color of the egg has
nothing to do with the quality or taste.

Emulsified. Any one of a number of mixtures that normally


cannot come together on their own. Think of mayonnaise,
which consists of oil, egg yolks and vinegar or lemon juice.
By slowly adding the oil to the egg yolks and vinegar or
lemon juice and whisking vigorously, a thick satiny emulsion
is achieved. Emulsified powdered sugar has been treated in
such a way as to prevent it from liquefying or becoming
watery in a refrigerator or upon defrosting if frozen. It is
generally sold to bakeries only.
Flour. All purpose flour and cake flour are the two
flours used in this book. Although many grains can be made
into flour, as used in this book, both the all purpose and
cake flour come from wheat. They are sometimes combined
to make pastry flour, which is not readily available to
consumers. We used this method at the bakery so we
wouldn’t have to stock another flour. By combining two-
thirds all-purpose flour with one-third cake flour the gluten
content is lowered and is close enough to use wherever
pastry flour is called for. The strength of flour is determined
by the gluten or protein count of that particular flour. The
higher the protein count, the stronger the flour. Strong flours
are used for blending with other flours and for bread. Soft
flours are used for pastries, cakes and biscuits among other
things. Pastry flour falls in between and is used for tart
shells as well as other items. All-purpose flour is between 9
to 12 percent protein. Cake flour is between 5 to 8 percent
protein and the softest of flours. Weights of the flours
depend upon whether they are sifted or unsifted. Please see
the weight chart for more information. All-purpose flour
comes bleached or unbleached and can be used
interchangeably. Flour can be bleached either by aging it or
using chemicals. While most flours on the market are
presifted, how they are measured can make a huge
difference to the outcome. The only sure way of obtaining
the correct measure is to weigh the flour, which is why
scales are used professionally and highly recommended for
home baking. In addition to being more accurate, it is much
faster. While the flours are sifted at the point of origin,
shipping and stacking can condense them. So if a scale is
not being used, stir the flour with a spoon in the bag or
canister, dip the cup in and fill to overflowing, then sweep
the excess off with the back of a knife. If a recipe calls for
sifted flour, place an empty cup measure on a piece of
waxed paper and fill a sifter or strainer about half way with
four and sift into the cup to overflowing. Sweep the excess
off with the back of a knife. This should yield the closest
measure to a cup of flour that has been weighed. All recipes
in this book use flour that has been weighed.

Food coloring comes in liquid, gel and powdered form. It is


used, as it’s name implies to color food products.

Fruits used in this book consist of blueberries,


cranberries, lemons, limes, oranges, peaches, pears,
raspberries and strawberries that are fresh or
sometimes frozen.

Fruit jams and preserves. Jams consist of fruit and sugar


cooked until the fruit is so soft it is formless. Jams are
usually purees. They are sometimes set with pectin.
Preserves are fruit and sugar cooked, sometimes with
pectin but the fruit is left in large to medium size pieces.
Both are used in pastries. The preserves are often pureed in
a processor for a smoother filling.

Gelatin is an odorless, tasteless and colorless thickening


agent that forms a gel when ultimately combined with a hot
liquid. Gelatin is a collagen, a naturally occurring protein

produced from the bones, tendons and cartilage of various


animals. Most of the commercial gelatin is made from
pigskin. As the Muslim and Jewish religions forbid the use of
pork products, there are other gelling agents available for
special diets including vegetarian.

Gelatin comes in a granular form of different strengths,


measured by bloom that must be softened in water before
adding to a liquid. If the liquid is hot, the softened gelatin
can be added without liquefying it first. If the liquid is cold, it
must be heated before adding it to the other ingredients.
Gelatin sheets or gelatin leaf in paper-thin sheets come in
various strengths. They are soaked in water before adding
to the product. The colors refer to the strength of the
gelatin: Bronze is 125 to 155 bloom, Silver is 130 bloom,
Gold is 190 to 220 bloom and Platinum is 235 to 265 bloom.
I used powdered gelatin 250 bloom strength. Knox gelatin
sold in grocery stores is fine for small amounts. Each
envelope contains 2 1/2 teaspoons, enough to jell 2 cups of
liquid or 1 1/2 cups of solids. It must always be softened or
“bloomed” in cold water, then added to a hot mixture
directly or heated to a liquid if the mixture it is being added
to is cold.

Graham Cracker Crumbs are made from crushed graham


crackers that are a rectangular shaped cracker made from
whole-wheat flour. They are used in this book in tart crusts.
Graham Cracker crumbs are widely available in grocery
stores but whole graham crackers can be crushed if
necessary.

Honey is derived from the nectar of flowers gathered by


bees as a source of food for them when it is cold or they are
unable to get fresh food. It is thick, sweet and sticky and is
stored in honeycombs. Generally, the darker the color, the
more intense the flavor. There are hundreds of kinds of
honey flavored by the nectar from various flowers such as
lavender, wildflower and the most common in America,
clover honey, orange blossom and sage. It is sold in
honeycomb form, with chunks of the honeycomb in with the
honey and liquid honey that has been extracted from the
comb. It should be stored in a cool, dry place. If it
crystallizes it can be reconstituted by microwaving for 30 to
40 seconds at full power, depending upon the amount or by
placing the container in a pan of simmering water. Honey is
used in both sweet and savory preparations and makes a
delicious spread for toast when mixed with butter.

Instant coffee is used as a flavoring agent or to deepen


the flavor of chocolate. It is made from heat dried fresh
coffee and must first be dissolved in liquid before adding to
other ingredients. Instant espresso is generally too strong
and should not be substituted.

Mascarpone Cheese comes from the Lombardy region of


Italy. It is a double cream or can be a triple cream cheese
that ranges from very soft to room temperature butter. Its
richness

is most known in the United States as the main ingredient in


tiramasu. Although it is sometimes suggested that cream
cheese be substituted mascarpone, it is not a substitution I
recommend since cream cheese is nowhere near the
consistency or flavor of mascarpone.

Nuts are used throughout this book both as the star and in
supportive roles. The nuts used are almonds, macadamias
and walnuts. Peanuts, thought of as a nut, are actually
legumes. Nuts benefit from toasting to amplify their flavor.

Peanut Butter is made by crushing peanuts into a smooth


paste. It had been used by centuries in various forms since
George Washington Carver started the peanut butter craze
in America, although that was not his intention. He originally
used it to feed hungry children in the south and to provide
them with protein in an easy to eat, inexpensive form. From
there it became, and still is, one of the most popular foods
in America. It was promoted as a health food at the 1904
World’s Fair. Most of us never outgrow our love of peanut
butter. Peanut butter, as most of us know it, comes in
smooth and chunky and is often enhanced with sugar and/or
other sweeteners, vegetable oils and salt. Natural peanut
butter is made with few or no additives and substituting this
for the above will alter the final products in this book.

Pectin is a natural, water-soluble substance used for


thickening jams, jellies and preserves. It is present in
various ripe fruits and vegetables with apple pectin being
among the most used. It is added to fruits that lack enough
natural pectin on their own to thicken. It’s available in liquid
form, and powder from citrus fruits or apples. To be
effective, the correct balance of sugar and acid must be
available in the recipe.

Raisins are simply dried grapes. As such they come in a


variety of colors including light green and dark brown. They
can be sun dried or mechanically dried. The most used
varieties of raisins are from the Thompson seedless, Zante
and Muscat grapes. Raisins are packaged in several ways.
There are now baker’s raisins which are a very moist
raisin and don’t have to be presoaked to add moisture to
them.

Releasing Agents do exactly what they imply. They get


products out of pans. The two basic types are those based
on lecithin as their main ingredient and those based on an
oil/flour mixture. Each is sprayed out of a can and has its
own uses. They are used in place of greasing or greasing
and flouring baking pans.

Rosemary belongs to the mint family and originated in the


Mediterranean area where it grows wild. It now grows all
over Europe and the United States. This herb, with its
pungent flavor, is a favorite savory herb and can be used in
sweet goods also.

Rum is liquor distilled from sugar cane juice or molasses.


The majority is from the Caribbean and comes in a variety of
colors from white or silver rum, to golden and amber
rums. The darkest, most intensely flavored rum is dark
rum, is Jamaican or Cuban. Meyers Dark Rum is a popular
brand in the United States and the one used here.

Salt is used to bring out the flavor of ingredients. It is used


less in baking than in cooking. It has long been used as a
preservative. Much of today’s salt is mined from deposits
left by dried salt lakes around the world. There are many
types of salt including table, kosher, sea, rock, and pickling
and seasoned as well as colored salts. While the human
body needs salt, too much can be a hindrance to good
health. Table salt is used in this book.

Sugar refers to a variety of sweeteners, most commonly


manufactured from sugar cane or sugar beets as used in a
bakery. Granulated sugar (white sugar) comes in a variety
of grinds. Powdered sugar, also known as confectioners’
sugar, is labeled with a number of X’s with the highest
being the finest powder. Powdered sugar dissolves very
readily and is used to make icings. Baker’s sugar is a
superfine sugar that dissolves easily when creaming or
making meringue. While readily available to bakers, it is
difficult to find for consumers. It can be made by putting
regular granulated sugar in a processor and processing to
make a finer sugar. Regular granulated sugar is coarser.
Brown sugar, which is granulated sugar to which a varying
amount of molasses has been added, has a different taste
than granulated sugar. Brown sugar comes in light, medium
and dark depending upon the amount of molasses added.
They can be used interchangeably with little difference.
However, brown sugar can dry out and become as hard as a
brick. Because the molasses makes this sugar fluffier, it is
necessary to pack it into measuring cups if not weighing.
Microwaving very briefly can soften it again.

Decorating sugars come in sanding sugar and crystal


sugar and can be found in cake decorating shops and
gourmet markets. Colored sugars are widely available or
can be made by adding a few drops of food coloring to
sugar, putting a lid on the container and shaking to
distribute the color.

Tequila is made by fermenting and distilling the sweet sap


of the agave plant. It is made in the town of Tequila, Mexico.
To be classified as tequila, it must be distilled from the blue
agave in five specially delineated Mexican states. Tequila
labeled “100% Blue Agave” is considered to be the best.
Mexican Law requires that tequila must be made with at
least 51 percent blue agave with the remainder usually
being sugarcane.

Vanilla is one of the most, if not the most, used flavorings


in baking. Both the extract and the whole beans, which are
long, thin pods, are the byproduct of one orchid are used.
The whole beans are often slit and the paste within them
consisting of very small seeds are scraped out and used as
the flavoring. After using the whole beans, they may be
rinsed, allowed to dry and reused. The three most used
types today are Bourbon-Madagascar, Mexican and Tahitian.
The Boubon-Madagascar vanilla beans come from Africa
and the Indian island of Reunion. They are the most used
vanilla beans and are the thinnest of the three considered to
be rich and sweet. Mexican vanilla beans are thicker with
a smooth, rich flavor and come from around Veracruz.
However, the areas where they once grew in abundance are
being replaced by oil fields and orange groves. Mexican
vanilla beans can contain a potentially toxic substance,
coumarin, banned by the USDA and Europe as it can cause
liver and kidney damage. There is no way to tell which
beans contain this toxin and which don’t so it is necessary
to buy from reliable sources. Tahitian vanilla beans are
the thickest and darkest of the three beans. They are
intensely aromatic with a floral taste. It is often the chosen
vanilla of professional chefs. Although I do not use it
exclusively, Tahitian vanilla is my personal favorite lending
an unusual taste to simple items, such as ice cream, pastry
cream, sauces and sables. Vanilla sugar, often used in
baking, can be made by burying several vanilla beans in a
canister of sugar and letting the canister sit for a week or
so. The beans can be used over and over. For a full paper on
vanilla, go to my blog, www.theardentcook.com and enter
vanilla in the search box.
Equipment

What you need to


make these happen
Equipment
(go to www.europeantarts.com for photographs of the
equipment)

The equipment shown here is my personal equipment. Some


of the equipment is new; some has been with me for many
years. The important thing is not that you use what I do, but
what works for you in each of the categories. Buy the best
you can and the equipment will last a lifetime, as you will
see in some of these pictures.

I am not a believer in buying equipment for the sake of


it, especially when it comes to small wares. When I
remodeled my kitchen, I put all of my small utensils in a box
and whatever I didn’t use in six months, I donated to a
resale shop. I used exactly one item and I don’t even
remember what that was.

Baking sheets – Heavy sheets are important for even


browning and to keep items from browning or burning
before baking is completed. Professionally we used rimmed
full sheet and half sheet pans that have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch rim
all the way around the pan for everything including cookies.
I still use half sheets in my personal kitchen to help keep the
amount of equipment to a minimum. Cookie sheets have
upturned ends but open sides.

Bowls – Several of each size of assorted bowls.

Colander – This utensil comes in plastic as well as


aluminum and stainless steel and has feet to hold it above a
surface. It is used primarily to let liquids drain from a
product. It is particularly useful for washing and draining
fruit, vegetables and pasta.

Cutting Boards – come in a variety of sizes and weights.


Heavier ones will last longer and provide more stability.
Placing a wet towel under the board will prevent it from
moving while it is being used.

Double Boiler – This specialized piece of equipment


consists of one pan seated inside of a second pan with room
for water in the bottom pan. Water is added to the bottom
pan so the contents of the upper pan can be warmed or
cooked gently without direct heat to keep it from breaking
or burning. Placing a bowl over a pan of simmering water is
an alternative.

Dishers/scoopers – These are used for portion control and


ease of shaping or dropping bakery items. They come in a
variety of sizes with the highest size number being the
smallest content size.

Food Processor –A food processor is an indispensible piece


of equipment that changed how we cooked and baked when
it was introduced in 1970 by Carl Sontheimer who brought it
over from France. While it will not do everything, it minces,
chops, mixes, purees, kneads bread dough, dices, slices,
shreds and grinds a variety of foods. It is efficient and very
fast, taking much of the time consuming aspects out of
cooking and baking. There are various sizes of machines
and motors and most of them come with several different
blades, grating and slicing attachments. Because the blade
turns about 30 miles an hour, it often requires recipes to be
put together differently than when using a mixer. The tasks
this machine can perform are amazing. But there are some
caveats. It doesn’t puree as good as a blender and nuts can
be turned into butters or cut too finely in seconds. The pulse
button can save you from disaster. The size of the motors
vary as well as the capacity of the bowls. Processors usually
come with several blades including an S shaped blade that
chops and purees and several discs for slicing and
shredding. The more powerful machines can make bread
dough. A feed tube on the lid of the plastic bowl allows food
to be added while the machine is running. This is a real
workhorse and a great piece of equipment for the sweet
kitchen.

Knives – Good knives will last a lifetime. They don’t have to


be the most expensive knives on the market but they should
be balanced and hold a sharp edge. Essential knives include
a paring knife, a chef’s knife in a length you can easily use
and a good bread knife with a serrated blade making it
indispensable for cutting desserts.

Grater – A box grater has many uses in the kitchen but I


favor a microplaner for the baking/pastry kitchen.

Heat Gun or Blowtorch – Used to heat the sides of pans to


aid in the releasing of an item from its pan. This piece of
equipment is particularly useful when removable rims are
used. The pan is put on a can. The rim is then heated with
the heat gun or blowtorch enabling the rim to be easily
pushed down.

Juicer – This aluminum juicer is probably the oldest, ugliest


juicer ever, but I love it. The look of this is a testament to
never putting aluminum items in a dishwasher. There are
many versions of juicers including electric ones. This is a
simple version where the cut citrus fruit is put on top of the
juicer and twisted and pressed down to extract the juice
while leaving the seeds behind.

Ladles of different sizes are useful for portion control or to


move liquids. They come in different sizes and professional
ladles are marked in ounces.
Measuring cups – come in wet and dry measures. The wet
measures have graduated sizes on them and are used for
liquids, which is why there is usually a lip on the top. They
come in sizes from 1 cup up to 1 gallon. I have seen them in
metal, ceramic, glass and plastic. Dry measures are used for
any dry ingredient. The important thing here is to overfill
the cup and sweep the excess off with the back of a knife or
any flat utensil.

While cups are fine for some items, weighing dry ingredients
is used by professionals and is encouraged for pastry/baking
success.

Measuring spoons – used to measure small amounts of


ingredients. They come in a variety of sizes held together on
a ring.

Microplaner – This is one of the most wonderful tools in a


kitchen. Microplaners can be used to grate citrus rinds,
chocolate, nutmeg, etc. They are particularly good as they
remove the zest from citrus fruits without taking the bitter
white pith underneath. They also keep the zest dry.

Mixer – this is a necessary piece of equipment for pastry


making. It is used to combine, beat or whip ingredients.
There are hand mixers and stand mixers that go from 4 1/2
quarts to huge 140-quart commercial mixers. Generally
speaking, hand mixers do not have enough power for many
baking and pastry applications. Stand mixers have more
power and in addition to performing baking and pastry
tasks, many come with attachments that enable them to
perform even more tasks such as grinding meat, stuffing
sausage, juicing citrus, crushing ice and making pasta. Most
of the stand mixers come with a paddle, whisk and dough
hook for making bread. I use a 5-quart KitchenAid mixer but
have also used Cuisinart and Kenmore mixers. All of my
recipes are figured for a 5-quart mixer.
Pancake Turners – are used to move tarts to their boards
or platters. Two sturdy turners are placed, one on each side,
to lift the tart and move it into place.

Pastry Bags – are used in conjunction with pastry tips to


finish pastries. They can be plastic, cloth or disposable
plastic and come in various sizes. Disposable plastic bags
are used professionally to avoid cleanliness issues. If large,
they can be cut down. If you use a non-disposable bag, it
should be turned inside out and washed in warm soapy
water and

thoroughly dry before being stored.

Pastry Brushes – come in a variety of widths and sizes.


They are useful for washing down the sides of pans,
brushing flour away, applying glazes and more. While
expensive, it is best to use natural bristles. The plastic
bristle brushes can melt on a hot pan.

Pastry Tips – are used with pastry bags. The tips used in
this book include #5 and #8 open star, #48 basket weave
and #1 and #5 ateco plain tip.

Quiche pans- See tart pans with removable bottoms.

Ruler - Any ruler, plastic or metal can be used.

Saucepans – Several sizes of pans including small to


medium are used. Heavy pans will not only last a lifetime
but also prevent items from burning and allow more even
heat distribution.

Scales- my mantra is scales, scales, and scales. Not only


for accuracy but also for speed. It is so much faster to weigh
ingredients than to measure with spoons and cups. Since
successful baking and pastry depend upon the accuracy of
measurements, scales provide a foolproof way of
measuring. No professional should ever measure with
anything but a scale. However, in the spirit of compromise
for home cooks, if you don’t use a scale, stir the flour briefly
in the bag or canister as it settles when shipping or upon
sitting. Dip a dry measure into the flour and fill to
overflowing; sweep off the excess.

Scissors – A sturdy pair will last longer and complete more


tasks easily.

Scrapers - Scrapers are indispensible tools for baking and


pastry. The bench scraper was originally used to scrape
flour off the area used to make bread, which is referred to as
a bench – hence bench scraper. In addition to scraping clean
a work area, this scraper can be used to cut dough into
pieces. A bowl scraper is used to get everything out of a
mixing bowl. It is plastic and has a curved side and a flat
side. The curved side is used to scrape out the sides and
bottom of a bowl.

Spatulas, Metal – Large and small metal spatulas are


important for frosting cakes and releasing items from pans.

Spatulas, Metal, Offset – Off set spatulas in both large,


small and pointed are important for frosting cakes,
particularly finishing the top, spreading any number of items
out and releasing items from pans. The pointy one is useful
for scalloped edge pans such as the pans used in this book.

Spatulas, Rubber – Various sizes are available. From


narrow to wide from about 13 inches to 20 inches long, they
serve a variety of duties in the baking/pastry kitchen. Do not
use regular rubber spatulas in hot items. There are specially
made high heat spatulas for use in hot pots.

Spoons of various sizes are useful from small tasting


spoons to larger ones used to stir ingredients together.
Strainer – A variety of strainers in different mesh sizes are
useful many tasks including straining, washing fresh fruit
and sprinkling powdered sugar among other things. They
often come in sets of varying sizes.

Tart pans with removable bottoms – Also referred to as


quiche pans, these short tart pans with fluted rims usually
have sides that are 3/4 to 1 inch tall. The bottoms come out
which makes anything in them very easy to release without
turning the pan upside down. These come in various sizes
from 3 1/2 inches, which is the smallest pan I have used to
12” round. I have also seen them in square and rectangular
pans.

Thermometers – There are a variety of thermometers for


different uses. Freezer and refrigerator thermometers are
important to keep track of the temperatures for safety.

Freezers should be kept at 0 degrees or below. Refrigerators


should be kept between 33 and 40 degrees. A candy
thermometer registers high temperatures used in candy and
sugar work.

An instant read thermometer records temperatures very


quickly. The temperature ranges can vary.

Toothpicks and Skewers – These are used to finish


desserts.

Vegetable Peeler – There are basically two styles of


peelers available, the straight or the Y shaped. My
preference is the straight, swivel bladed version that has a
rounded end for digging out the eyes of potatoes or other
produce. The important thing here is to find one that is
comfortable in your hand.

Whisks – can be used for various tasks in the kitchen,


including mixing and whipping ingredients. They come in
very fine wire to heavy wire depending upon the use. They
also come in various heights to accommodate different size
containers.
Weights and
Measurement
Chart

My best case
for a scale!
Top, Margarita Tart, page 26
Bottom, S’Mores Tart, page 76
Crusts

Getting to the
bottom of tarts
Press In Crusts

General Notes on Press-in Crusts

Plain Press-In Shell

Chocolate Press-In Shell

Basic Graham Cracker Crust

Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb Crust


General Notes On Press-In Crusts
These crusts are the main ones used in this book. The first
of these crusts is of the “cookie crust” variety that are
pressed into the shell, baked partially or fully and then filled.
If partially baked, they are filled and baked with the filling.
These crusts shrink so little there is no need to weight them
down. This type of crust is ideal for these particular tarts
because most of them require refrigeration and the crusts
do not become soggy. They retain their crispness for days
even under refrigeration or after freezing and thawing.
These come in a plain and chocolate version.

The second crust is of the graham cracker variety. The


chocolate variation was developed to avoid buying
expensive chocolate cookies. It uses graham cracker
crumbs, cocoa and powdered sugar as its base. We made
this in 35 pound batches and stored it in plastic containers
until we needed it. Then we simply weighed what we
needed for as many crusts as we wanted, added melted
butter and we were ready to go. These crusts were rarely
baked.

The four most used crusts are included here. The general
rule for the crumb crust is 2/3 of the crumbs are used for
the sides and 1/3 for the bottom of the tart. At the bakery
we pressed them in and froze them in freezer proof bags, to
be used as needed. I do not recommend baking the plain
and chocolate press-in crusts and then freezing them as
they have a tendency to crack if not filled. Besides they are
fresher if they are just baked and then filled. Some recipes
call for partially baking the crust if they are to be filled and
baked again. If the tart will not be baked again, then the
crust should be completely baked.
11” Plain Press-In Pastry
(go to www.europeantarts.com, Chocolate Press- in Pastry, for how to
photographs) 1 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour (170 grams or 6 ounces) 1/2 cup
sifted cake flour (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounces) 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 stick unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces (114
grams or 4 ounces) 1/4 cup sugar (50 grams or 1
3/4 ounces)
1 egg

1 egg yolk
Preheat oven to 350 degrees if baking immediately.

Mixer Method: Combine the flours, baking powder and


butter in mixer bowl. Beat with the paddle attachment until
the butter is cut in very finely. Add the sugar; mix briefly.
Add the egg and yolk; mix on medium speed until it comes
together in a ball.

Food Processor Method: Place the flours and baking powder


in the food processor. Process to mix briefly. Place the butter
in a circle over the flours. Process until finely cut in. Add the
sugar; process briefly. Add the egg and yolk and process
until a ball forms.

Spray only the center bottom of the pan only with a


releasing spray. Divide the dough in half (175 grams or 6
ounces). Divide one piece in half again (85 grams or 3
ounces). Roll one quarter of the dough (85 grams or 3
ounces) evenly into a rope. Lay against one half edge of the
pan. Repeat with the other quarter, overlapping the pieces
slightly. Press into the side of the shell, sealing the two
pieces together. Flatten the remaining half of the dough into
a circle. Place it in the bottom of the pan. With the heel of
your hand, press the dough outward toward the edge.
Continue to work the dough outward with your fingers and
lastly, seal the seam. Be sure to seal the seam well where
the edge and the bottom meet so it does not crack when
baked. Prick the tart bottom with a fork. Place on a baking
sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes if partially baking or 18
to 22 minutes until a rich golden brown if fully baking. Cool;
fill and finish as directed.

Weight of full crust before baking is 350 grams or 12 1/4


ounces.

To make individual shells


3 1/2” individual shells are 40 grams
(1 1/2 ounces) each. Use 25 grams
(1 scant ounce) for the sides and 15
grams (1/2 ounce) for the bottom of
each shell.
4 3/4” individual shells are 60 grams
(2 ounces) each. Use 35 (1 heavy
ounce) for the sides and 25 grams
(1 scant ounce) for the bottom.
Bake at 350 degrees 12 to 15
minutes for partially baked, 18 to 20
minutes for fully baked.
9” Plain-Press In Pastry (go to
www.europeantarts.com, Chocolate
Press-In Pastry, for how to
photographs) 3/4 cup all-purpose
flour (114 grams or 4 ounces) 1/3
cup cake flour (35 grams or 1 1/4
ounces)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
(58 grams or 2 ounces) 3 tablespoons sugar (25
grams or 1 scant ounce)
1/3 teaspoon baking powder

1 egg
See directions above.

Chocolate Press-In Pastry


(go to www.euroopeantarts.com for how to photographs for the plain crust)

For one 11”x1” quiche pan.


1 1/4 cups all purpose flour (140 grams or 5 ounces) 1/2 cup
cake flour (50 grams or 1 3/4 scant ounce) ¼ cup
cocoa (20 grams or 3/4 ounce)
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 stick butter, cold and cut into pieces (114 grams or 4
ounces) 1/2 cup sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces)
1 egg

1 egg yolk
Preheat oven to 350 degrees if baking immediately.

Mixer Method: Combine flours, cocoa and baking powder


in mixing bowl. Mix briefly to combine. Add the butter and
cut in with the paddle attachment until very fine. Add the
sugar; mix to combine. Add the egg and yolk; mix until a
ball forms.

Processor Method: Place flours, cocoa and baking


powder in food processor. Place butter in a circle over flours.
Process until finely cut in. Add sugar and process briefly to
mix. Add egg and yolk and process until a ball forms.

Spray the center of the bottom of the pan. Divide the


dough in half (200 grams or 7 ounces). Divide one half into
half again (2 - 100 grams or 3 1/2 ounce pieces). Roll one
quarter of the dough (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) into a
rope that will fit half way around the edge of the pan. Press
the dough evenly along the side. Repeat with the remaining
quarter and press against the other side of the pan,
overlapping the edges and pressing firmly together. Use the
remaining dough and press in the bottom sealing the edges
together very well. Prick the tart bottom. Bake
approximately 10 minutes for partially baked and about 15
minutes for a fully baked shell.

Yield: 400 grams


9” Chocolate Graham Cracker
Crumb Crust
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs) 1 1/3 cups graham
cracker crumbs (buy them in crumbs or run the crackers through food processor)
(170 grams or 6 ounces) ¼ cup cocoa (25 grams or 1 scant ounce)
½ cup unsifted powdered sugar (55 grams or 2 ounces) 10
tablespoons unsalted butter, melted (150 grams or
5 1/3 ounces)

Sift the cocoa and powdered sugar


together in a bowl. Add the crumbs,
mixing well. Add the butter and toss with a
fork until the crumbs are completely
coated. Spray the bottom of the quiche
pan and press 2/3 of the crumbs (200
grams or 7 ounces) evenly over the
bottom of the pan. Distribute them evenly
against the sides. Press firmly against
sides. Add the remainder (160 grams or 5
2/3 ounces) on the bottom and press
firmly.

Notes: We used dutched cocoa at the shop


but non-dutched is also fine. If you are
making a lot of the mixture, place the dry
ingredients in the bowl of a mixer and
blend with the whisk attachment to
remove any lumps in the powdered sugar
or cocoa. If you are crushing the graham
crackers in a food processor, simply add
the powdered sugar and cocoa processing
to mix. In either case, add the butter by
hand.

One recipe will make:

6 – 3 1/2” individual tart shells – 25 grams


(1 scant ounce) for the sides and 15
grams (1/2 ounce) for the bottom or 4 – 4
3/4” individual tart shells – 50 grams (1
2/3 ounces) for the sides and 25 grams (1
scant ounce for the bottoms.
9” Basic Graham Cracker Crumb
Crust
(go to www.europeantarts.com, 9” Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb Crust for
how photographs)

Omit the cocoa, reduce the butter to 8


tablespoons (114 grams or 4 ounces) and
add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla. Mix and press in
as above.
Left, Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Tart, page 60
Top, Orange Blossom Tart, page 28
Bottom Right, Lemon Raspberry Tart, page 24
Curd Tarts

No Whey!
Curd Tarts

General Notes on Curds

Cranberry Curd

Chocolate Cranberry Tart

Lemon Curd

Fresh Blueberry Lemon Tart

Lemon Raspberry Tart

Lime Curd

Margarita Tart

Orange Curd

Orange Blossom Tart


General Notes On Curds
Curds in general are thick, creamy mixtures of fruit juices or
whole fruits with sugar and butter thickened with egg yolks.
However they can be tricky to make. By understanding the
nature of curds and adding an additional ingredient, runny
curds are a thing of the past. As I hired more employees, it
was sometimes difficult for everyone to know when the curd
had reached its maximum ability to thicken. Safeguards, in
the way of a uniform recipe had to be found. Over cooking it
or raising the temperature of the curd too quickly risks the
chance of breaking it – at which point it will not thicken.
That is why the butter is always put in cold – to slow the
heat. By placing the ingredients for the curd over a double
boiler it lessens the chance of raising the temperature of the
curd too quickly. Additionally the use of an instant read
thermometer will enable you to maximize the thickening at
the perfect point before it gets too hot.

Egg yolks have traditionally been the only thickener used for
curds. In my first book, The New Pastry Cook, 1986 by
William Morrow Co., I gave a recipe for Lemon Curd that
added a bit of gelatin that will guarantee a firm curd every
time. The gelatin also makes it possible to pipe the curd
without it breaking down. Without the gelatin, the curd will
hold its points at first when piped but as it is worked the
curd loosens and no longer pipes well.

The secret of good, firm curd is to move it around as little as


possible after it has chilled. However, stirring too much at
any point after it has set can cause it to break down. After
cooking, cover the surface of the curd directly with plastic
wrap to prevent a crust from forming on top. We used curds
for tart and cake fillings as well as piped petit fours. As long
as you don’t overwork it, it will be fine. The curd holds in the
refrigerator for a week to 10 days and the finished products
using curds freeze well.

To make it easier to juice lemons, limes, or oranges,


microwave the lemons for 20 seconds, the limes for 15
seconds and the oranges for 30 seconds before squeezing.
Sometimes grated lemon zest is used to enhance the
lemony taste of lemon curd. I prefer the creamy smoothness
of the curd without the little bumps caused by the zest -
especially don’t use zest if you are going to pipe the curd as
the zest gets hung up in the piping tip.

You will notice all of the curd tarts are topped in some way
to protect the curd.

If the tarts are stored several days in the refrigerator, as


they often are when used in restaurants, the curd will often
dry out and crack. Covering the curd prevents this.

All of the curd tarts freeze beautifully with the exception of


the fresh fruit tarts. In this case, freeze the filled tarts
without the fruit. Thaw in the refrigerator and several hours
prior to serving, top with the fruit. Store in the refrigerator.
Cranberry Curd
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

This had become an absolute favorite for


the holidays. Besides its’ vibrant color, the
taste and texture are outstanding. We
used it in tarts, cakes and petit fours.
Room permitting, we would freeze cases
of cranberries at the end of the season in
order to get a head start the following
season and test new recipes during the
year. Pick over the cranberries for the odd
ones that need to be discarded. To prevent
them from rolling all over your kitchen
(like they did in ours before we figured this
out), place them in a jelly roll pan or
rimmed baking sheet where they will be in
one layer. You can see all of them and
shaking the pan will turn them over to
make sure no bad ones are hiding. It saves
a lot of time chasing them around the
floor. They have a way of going directly
under the most difficult area to reach.
Cranberries have so much natural pectin;
this sets up very firmly without the
addition of gelatin.
12 ounce bag fresh or frozen cranberries picked over 1 cup
sugar (7 ounces or 200 grams) 2 tablespoons water
5 egg yolks (3 ounces or 85 grams)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 stick unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces (4 ounces or
114 grams)

Cook the cranberries with sugar and water


over low heat until the cranberries are
very soft and some of them have popped.
Stir frequently as this will be very thick
and can scorch.

Immediately, puree them in a food


processor (by batches if necessary). Puree
for several minutes to get the skins as fine
as possible. There will be tiny specs of red
which is as it should be. If you prefer to
remove the skins, strain the puree before
proceeding. Add the yolks and lemon juice
to the processor and process briefly. Place
the cranberry mixture in the top of a
double boiler and add the butter. Bring the
water underneath to a boil. Stir the curd
constantly until an instant read
thermometer reads 170 degrees.

Use as directed at once or store in


refrigerator with the top covered directly
with plastic wrap.

Yield: 2 1/4 cups


Chocolate Cranberry Curd Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

Perfect for the holidays, this is an unusual


combination of color and textures. This
curd will never be as smooth as a lemon
or lime curd because the skins of the
cranberries do not puree perfectly smooth.
However, it is this very thing that adds
texture to the taste. In contrast, the
chocolate glaze is as smooth as silk. This
is a much firmer curd than any of the
others and has no trouble sitting at room
temperature for several hours. Many of
our clients waited for November and
December when we featured this sleek
looking dessert.

11” Chocolate Press-in Shell


1 batch Cranberry Curd, freshly made

Pour the cranberry curd into the shell and


cover directly with plastic wrap. Place in
the refrigerator overnight to firm.
Chocolate Cream Glaze
3/4 cup 40% cream
6 ounces semisweet chocolate, cut into small pieces (170
grams)

Bring the cream to a simmer. Remove


from the heat and submerge the chocolate
under the cream. Allow to sit for 4 or 5
minutes then whisk gently to smooth
chocolate.

Remove the wrap from the top of the tart


and pour the glaze over the curd just to
the edge of the curd. Chill 20 to 25
minutes to set the glaze. Release and cut
into 10 to 12 servings. The tart may be
refrigerated overnight or frozen for longer
storage.
Lemon Curd
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

This is a very tart sweet lemon curd


with plenty of lemon taste.
1 teaspoon water
1/2 teaspoon gelatin
2 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 1/2 cup lemon
juice, freshly squeezed - do not use the bottle
version 1 stick cold butter, cut in pieces (114 grams
or 4 ounces)

Dissolve the gelatin in the water. Set


aside.

Place the eggs and yolks in the top of a


double boiler. Whisk to combine. Whisk in
the sugar and lemon juice. Add the butter
pieces. Place over hot water and, stirring
constantly, bring to 172 degrees on a
candy thermometer. Tear the dissolved
gelatin into little pieces and whisk into the
curd.
Use at once or pour into a storage
container, cover the surface with plastic
wrap; poke a few holes in it and
refrigerate to cool.

Yield: 1 2/3 cups or 454 grams or 16


ounces.

Lime Curd: Substitute lime juice (freshly


squeezed) for the lemon juice. You will
need 3 to 4 medium size limes. The lime
curd will not be green. I prefer not to use
coloring agents unless absolutely
necessary. Add a drop or two of food
coloring if you prefer it green.
Fresh Blueberry Lemon Tart, page 23
Fresh Blueberry Lemon Tart
There is nothing like fresh fruit in season. Team it up with a
zesty lemon curd and you have the makings of an
outstanding dessert. At the shop we had a special
emulsified powdered sugar that does not melt in the
refrigerator. We use it to dust many of our tarts. However, if
you use regular powdered sugar dust it just before serving
as it melts in the refrigerator or freezer upon thawing.

11” Plain Press-In Shell


1 batch of Lemon Curd, freshly made
1 pint of fresh blueberries
Powdered sugar

Pour the lemon curd into the shell just under the top. There
will be a bit leftover. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and
chill in the refrigerator overnight. Release from the pan.

Shortly before serving, remove the wrap from the tart and
starting at the outside edge arrange the blueberries in
concentric circles. If there are not enough to completely
cover the tart, it is just as attractive with the lemon curd
showing in the middle. Refrigerate.

Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar.

To serve: Cut into 10 to 12 servings.

To make ahead: The tart may be made and frozen after it is


filled with lemon curd. Thaw in the refrigerator the day
before. Finish as above.
Lemon Raspberry Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

Without a doubt this was one of the three


top-selling products we made. During the
entertaining months of the year we were
hard pressed to keep up with demand. It is
important to use a good quality white
chocolate that is made with cocoa butter.
Do not use white chocolate coating, which
uses palm or coconut oil as it doesn’t melt
and blend the same not to mention the
taste.

11” Plain-Press in crust, fully baked


1/2 cup good quality, seedless red raspberry jam or
preserves (130 grams or 4 1/2 ounces) 1 batch
Lemon Curd, freshly made
Fortified Raspberry Jam for piping, below White Chocolate
Glaze, below

Spread the bottom of the shell with the raspberry jam. Make
the lemon curd and pour it not quite to the top of the shell.
Leave a bit of room for the glaze. There will be some curd
left. Cover the surface of the curd directly with plastic wrap.
Refrigerate several hours until firm or overnight. Release
from the pan.

Fortified Raspberry Jam for Chevron


2 teaspoons water
1/2 teaspoon gelatin
1/2 cup seedless red raspberry jam or preserves

Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water.


Place the jam in a small saucepan and
bring it to a simmer. Microwave the gelatin
to liquefy it and stir it into the jam. Cover
with film and refrigerate for several hours
or until set up.
White Chocolate Glaze
7 ounces white chocolate, cut into small pieces (200 grams)
1/3 cup 40% cream

Place the chocolate and cream in the top of a double boiler;


set aside. In the bottom of a double boiler, bring several
inches of water to a rapid boil. Remove from the heat and
immediately place the top of the double boiler on the
bottom pan. Do not cover. Allow the chocolate to melt
stirring often and whisking to smooth the chocolate. Remove
the plastic wrap from the tart and pour the glaze over the
middle of the filling. With a small offset spatula move the
glaze lightly from the middle just to the edge of the filling
sealing in the lemon curd.

Place the fortified raspberry filling in a piping bag fitted with


a #5 small ateco tip. Immediately pipe straight lines left to
right across the tart, starting about 1 inch from the top.
Continue down the tart leaving about 1 1/2 inches between
the lines. You should have 9 lines. With a toothpick or
bamboo skewer, starting close to the left side lightly draw a
straight line from the top to the bottom through the
raspberry lines. At the bottom, move over about 1 inch and
draw the line straight up from the bottom to the top. Repeat
across the tart going down and up to form the chevron
design. Store in the refrigerator or freeze.

Release and cut into 10 to 12 servings.

Lemon Curd Tart: Omit the raspberry jam on the bottom of


the shell for the Lemon Raspberry Tart. White chocolate
glaze drizzled with dark chocolate or whipped cream should
finish the top to prevent the curd from drying out.
Margarita Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

Summers in St. Louis are often hot and


humid and the taste of lime helps cut the
heat. This perky little tart is the perfect
ending to a grilled or barbecued dinner
especially one with a southwestern theme.
The finish resembles little cacti. Can you
tell I love how this looks and tastes?

11” Plain Press-in Shell, completely baked 1 batch Lime


Curd, freshly made

Pour lime curd into tart shell just to the top. There will be a
bit left over; store separately. Cover surface of tart directly
with plastic wrap and chill several hours to set or overnight
in the refrigerator. Release from the pan.

Topping
1 cup 40% cream
6 tablespoons powdered sugar (45 grams or 1 1/2 ounces) 2
tablespoons clear tequila

Combine all the ingredients and beat until stiff peaks form.

Release the tart. Fit a pastry bag with a number 6B tip. Pipe
small stars of whipped cream to cover the tart. Fit another
pastry bag with a #1 writing tip and fill the bag with lime
curd. Dot the top of each star with curd. Refrigerate or
freeze.
To Serve: Cut into 10 to 12 pieces.
Orange Curd
While the use of gelatin in the lemon and lime curd is not
strictly necessary, the use of it here is definitely a necessity.
This is a most interesting curd as when it is completely
cooked, it is still very, very liquid. Do not panic at this point
(like I did). It will set up perfectly upon chilling. The use of
lemon juice in addition to the orange juice and rind gives
the requisite tartness to this curd. The rind is necessary
here to reinforce the juice, which is not as assertive as
lemon or lime. Microwave the lemon for 15 to 20 seconds
and the orange for 30 seconds to make the juicing much
easier as the fruit readily gives up its juice when the fruit is
warm.

2 tablespoons lemon juice


1 teaspoon gelatin
6 egg yolks (3 1/2 ounces or 100 grams) 1/2 cup sugar (3
1/2 ounces or 100 grams 1 1/2 tablespoons orange
rind
2/3 cup orange juice
6 tablespoons butter (3 ounces or 85 grams)

Dissolve the gelatin in the lemon juice. Set


aside.
Beat the egg yolks in the top of a double
boiler to mix; whisk in the sugar.

Add the orange rind and juice; mix well.


Add the butter; place over hot water in a
double boiler and cook, stirring constantly,
until the mixture reaches 172 degrees on
a candy thermometer. Tear the dissolved
gelatin into small pieces and whisk into
the curd. Use immediately as directed or
cover directly with film; poke a few holes
in it and allow to cool, then refrigerate.
This will last 10 days in a refrigerator and
freezes well.

Yield: 1 2/3 cup


Orange Blossom Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

This tart employs both orange curd and


pastry cream for a stunning looking,
outrageously tasty dessert. This dessert
was designed by one of my employees,
Kenda Morado.

11” Plain Press-In Shell, fully baked


1 batch of Orange Curd, freshly made

Fill the shell with the orange curd to just below the top.
There will be some curd left. Cover directly with film and
refrigerate overnight to firm.

Topping
1 batch pastry cream, chilled (see the Pastry Cream chapter)
1/2 cup 40% cream
1/3 cup powdered sugar (40 grams or a scant 1 1/2 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Whisk the pastry cream until smooth. Do not over whisk. Set
aside. Place remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl fitted
with a whisk attachment. Beat until the cream is very stiff.
Fold the pastry cream and whipped cream together. Fit a
pastry bag with a #8 star tip.

Release the tart and remove the film from the tart. Pipe two
rows of large rosettes to cover the top of the orange curd. If
it does not completely cover the tart, that’s fine. Refrigerate
or freeze.
Cut into 10 to 12 servings.
Left, Apricot Crumble Tart, page 39
Right, Café au Lait Truffle Tart, page 48
Pastry Cream

The go-to filling


for pastries
Pastry Cream Tarts

General Notes on Pastry Cream

Fresh Fruit Tart

Apricot Crumble Tart

Orange Blossom Tart (see Curd Tart Chapter)

General Notes On Pastry Cream


Of French derivation, pastry cream or crème patisserie is a
custard-like cousin of the sauce crème anglaise. There are
myriad variations that can flavor the basic version including
chocolate - white or dark, coffee, liqueurs, citrus zest or
coconut. Base ingredients can vary including whole eggs or
egg yolks only, cream, half and half or milk, cornstarch or
flour. The noted Pastry Chef/Instructor Bo Friberg describes
it best in his book, The Professional Pastry Chef: “Making
pastry cream is one of the basic techniques that anyone
involved with cooking (pastry shop or otherwise) should
master, because pastry cream has so many applications. In
an emergency, it can be thinned and used as a sauce; it is a
base for soufflé; it is a filling and flavoring for cakes; and it
can be used as a topping for Danish or other pastries. In the
pastry kitchen, there should always be a supply of pastry
cream in the refrigerator.”

Cornstarch is often used as the thickener as flour is thought


to make the cream heavy or “rubbery”. The problem with
cornstarch is that it does not freeze well as, upon thawing, it
becomes watery and breaks down. This can be avoided by
using a combination of flour and gelatin, which keeps it from
becoming rubbery or starchy tasting. It also allows the
pastry cream to be frozen in predetermined amounts and
used as needed. While Chef Friberg keeps his pastry cream
in the refrigerator, we kept ours in the freezer, as we didn’t
use it everyday. Egg yolks only are used as an additional
thickening agent. Always thaw the pastry cream in the
refrigerator before using. It will need to be whisked gently
by hand or machine to smooth it out. Be careful not to
overbeat and break it down.

It is important to use a stainless steel or non-aluminum pot


because if the pastry cream is made in an aluminum pot it
will become an unappetizing gray color. Because we made
this in large amounts, cooking it over direct heat was not
recommended as no matter how diligently it was stirred, the
bottom scorches at best, burns at worst. If this occurs do not
try to keep it, as the burned flavor will permeate the entire
batch. To avoid this we place the mixture over a double
boiler until it reaches 190 degrees then move it to direct
heat to bring it to a boil and complete the thickening. This
step is not necessary if making a single recipe, as the
mixture will cook quite quickly unless you are new to pastry
and want to insure it comes out. Just remember to stay with
it and stir constantly as cream or milk scorch easily.
Because the egg yolks are mixed only with sugar before the
hot milk is introduced it is important to temper the egg
yolks so you don’t end up with scrambled eggs. To temper
the yolks, add the hot milk very slowly in the beginning
while whisking constantly. This will allow the yolks to accept
the heat slowly and as the milk is introduced, it can be
added faster after the first third is in.

This is a very firm pastry cream to allow whipped cream to


be folded in and still hold up.

We sold 3 1/2 inch individual and 11 inch full sized tarts


filled with the pastry cream, frozen and unfinished. These
are called “blanks”. The client could then finish them as
desired and serve the freshest fruit tarts to their customers
as fruit tarts have a very short life before the fruit starts
looking distressed.
Pastry Cream (go to
www.europeantarts.com for how to
photographs) 1 1/2 teaspoons
gelatin
2 teaspoons cold water
1 1/3 cup milk, very hot
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 1/4 cup flour (35
grams or 1 ounce)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean split Soften the
gelatin in the water and set aside.

If using the vanilla bean, scrape out the seeds and add to
the milk along with the pod; heat the milk until hot but not
boiling.

Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a non-reactive


saucepan. Whisk in the flour. Remove the pod from the milk.
Add the milk slowly, whisking well and scraping the corners
of pan with a rubber spatula to make sure all of the egg yolk
mixture is incorporated. Place over medium heat and,
stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, stirring
constantly. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla (if
using extract). Tear the dissolved gelatin into small pieces
and stir it into the hot liquid (there is no need to liquefy it,
the heat of the mixture will do this for you). Pour into a
storage container, cover the surface with plastic wrap, poke
a few holes in it and refrigerate overnight to chill or freeze.

Yield: 2 cups (490 grams or 17 ounces)


Note: If making this in a large batch you will need to portion
it out to freeze. We lined 6” cake pans with film letting the
film overhang the pan. We poured 2 cups or 490 grams (19
ounces) into the pan; twisted the film to seal it and placed in
the freezer. When frozen, remove from the pans and place in
a freezer proof bag. Thaw in the refrigerator as needed and
use as desired.
Fresh Fruit Tart
It can be difficult to find what I call a “real” fruit tart. Often
the filling comes out of a bucket and the glaze is sprayed
out of a hose. The glaze is meant to keep the fruit from
deteriorating. Since I never used glaze, we either left the
fruit with nothing adorning it or sprinkled it lightly with
powdered sugar. While not readily available to consumers,
bakeries can use a special emulsified powdered sugar,
which will not become watery when refrigerated or upon
defrosting.

This tart is even better than the original because we lighten


the pastry cream, which can be heavy, with a bit of whipped
cream. This is actually a year round desert since any fresh,
ripe, fruit is used. The only non-fresh fruit used are
mandarin oranges because they add such color and are
good to form borders. Use as many different kinds of fruit on
one tart as you wish. There are no rules here. This is
definitely a place where the more the merrier works. One
last point; finish this the day it will be served. It’s really a
snap because the shell can be baked, filled ahead with the
pastry cream and then frozen. Thaw it the night before in
the refrigerator and top with the fruit shortly before serving.

The shell is fortified against becoming soggy with a layer of


either chocolate or jam spread on the bottom before adding
the pastry cream.

11” Plain-Press In Shell


2 ounces semisweet chocolate (60 grams) 1/2 cup good
quality raspberry jam (130 grams or 4 1/2 ounces)
1 batch pastry cream, chilled
1/2 cup 40% cream
Fresh fruit of your choice.
Spread the bottom of the shell with either the chocolate or
jam to help keep the shell crisp. Set aside.

Whip the cream very stiff. Whisk the pastry cream in a large
bowl until smooth. Fold in the whipped cream. Spread in the
shell. Release from the shell. (At this point the filling can be
covered directly with plastic wrap and frozen. Thaw in the
refrigerator.) Arrange the fruit as desired over the cream.
Some of the pastry cream showing in the center is fine -
don’t worry if you run out of fruit. Cover lightly with plastic
wrap and refrigerate until shortly before serving.

To serve: Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cut into 10 to 12


pieces.
Apricot Crumble Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

The filling for this tart is reminiscent of the


Hungarian filling, lekvar. It is easily made
and has an intense flavor. The important
point here is not to cover the pan when
reconstituting the dried apricots. Most
dried apricots are treated with sulfur to
retain their bright color. By reconstituting
the fruit in an uncovered, non-reactive
pan, it allows the sulfur to escape making
a much cleaner apricot taste.

Pastry Cream, chilled (see Pastry Cream


chapter)

11” Plain Press-In shell, fully baked


Apricot Filling, below
Almond Paste Crumbs, below
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/3 cup powdered sugar (40 grams or 1 1/4 ounces) 1
teaspoon vanilla

Apricot Filling
1/2 pound dried apricots (225 grams)
2/3 cups water
3 tablespoons butter (45 grams or 1 3/4 ounces) 1/3 cup
powdered sugar (40 grams or 1 1/4 ounces) 1
teaspoon vanilla

Place the apricots and water in a small non-reactive


saucepan. Simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently until the
water is almost gone and the apricots are soft. Place the
apricots and remaining ingredients in a processor bowl and
process until smooth. Set aside to cool. This can be made a
week ahead and kept in the refrigerator.
Almond Paste Crumbs 1/3 cup flour
(45 grams, or 1 1/2 ounces) 1/3 cup
packed brown sugar (65 grams or 2
ounces) 1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces (45
grams or 1 1/2 ounces) 2 ounces almond paste (60
grams)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.


Place all the ingredients in the food processor. Process until
crumbly. Do not over process, as you want fairly large
crumbs. Line a baking sheet with parchment and spread the
crumbs out. Bake about 7 to 10 minutes or until golden.

Assembly
Spread the cooled apricot filling over the bottom of the
baked crust.

Whip the cream with the powdered sugar and vanilla until
stiff. Whisk the pastry cream to smooth and fold in the
whipped cream. Spread this over the apricot filling. Top with
the Almond Paste Crumbs. Chill until needed. Release and
cut into 10 to 12 pieces.
Left, Chocolate Chip Truffle Tart, page 52
Right, Tropical Truffle Tart, page 61
Truffle Tarts

Where Chocoholics
go for a fix!
Truffle Tarts

General Notes on Truffle Tarts

Base Recipe for a 9” Tart

Café au Lait Truffle Tart

Caramel

Chocolate Caramel Truffle Tart

Chocolate Chip Truffle Tart

Chocolate Mint Truffle Tart

Chocolate Truffle Tart with Candied Cranberries


Chocolate Strawberry Truffle Tart

Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Tart

Tropical Truffle Tart


General Notes On Truffle Tarts
Truffle Tarts are the easiest and most versatile of all the
tarts in this book. With the exception of two crusts, there is
no baking and minimal heating of ingredients - yet the end
result is intense in taste and sophisticated in looks. These
are ideal for those with little baking experience but a
passion for desserts and equally good for restaurants and
professionals tired of bread pudding, crème brulee or ice
cream. A simple press-in crust is filled with a liquid
chocolate mixture that sets upon refrigeration. After that,
the sky’s the limit with endless variations possible. These
are so rich they are generally cut into 10 to 12 pieces and
benefit from being removed from the refrigerator about 1 to
2 hours before serving.

The key to these tarts is not to overheat the cream or the


chocolate filling will be dull. Heat the cream mixture just
until steaming and the butter (if called for) melts.
Immediately remove the pan from the heat and submerge
the chocolate under the cream. Let it sit for 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir to incorporate the chocolate, switching to a whisk to
smooth it out. Do not whisk so vigorously that air bubbles
are incorporated.

The choice of chocolate will affect the outcome of the filling.


A good chocolate, bittersweet or semisweet, depending
upon your taste, anywhere from 58% to 68% cocoa butter is
ideal. We never used chocolate chips unless they were for
cookies. Most chocolate companies now offer chocolate
wafers or buttons. These are far more convenient than bars
as you don’t have to cut them up. They can go straight into
the cream to melt. For many years the chocolate only came
in bars, which had to be cut into small pieces to use. If you
use bars, cut into small pieces and store in a covered
container for use as needed. We often cut 100 pounds at a
time in those days. Chocolate has come a long way in
convenience since then.

This is the base recipe for a 9” truffle tart. Although the


amounts of the ingredients may change for some recipes
the directions remain the same. All of the truffle tarts freeze
well unless otherwise noted.

Base Recipe for a 9” Chocolate Truffle Tart

1 cup 40% cream


4 tablespoons unsalted butter (58 grams or 2 ounces) 1/4
cup sugar (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounce) 10 ounces
semisweet chocolate (285 grams) 1 teaspoon
vanilla

Heat the cream, butter and sugar until steaming and butter
is melted. Whisk gently to make sure butter is melted and
sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and add the
chocolate and vanilla submerging the chocolate under the
cream. Let sit for 4 to 5 minutes. Gently whisk to smooth out
the chocolate. Using a rubber spatula, go around the bottom
edges of the pan to make sure all of the chocolate is melted.
Use as directed.
Café Au Lait Truffle Tart
9” Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb Crust 1 1/4 cup 40%
cream
1 tablespoon instant coffee
15 ounces milk chocolate (424 grams)
1 ounce semisweet chocolate (30 grams)

Heat the cream and coffee until steaming.


Do not boil. Submerge the milk chocolate
below the cream. Let sit 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir to incorporate chocolate, whisking
towards the end to remove any lumps.
Pour into the crust. Refrigerate to set;
release from the pan.

Microwave the semisweet chocolate in


short bursts at 50% power to melt it.
Drizzle over the tart.

Cut into 10 to 12 servings.


Caramel
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

We used a lot of caramel at the shop and


never found a smooth, buttery caramel
that tasted as good and was the correct
consistency without making our own. So
we did! Sometimes there was so much
caramel going, you would think we were a
candy shop instead of a bakery. If you are
not using the caramel immediately, it will
keep well at room temperature when it is
cool. Refrigerate it if the weather is warm
or the butter will separate. To warm it for
spreading, microwave briefly. Do not
overheat or over stir, as the butter will
separate and rise to the top. If this
happens, pour off the melted butter. For
any recipe calling for caramel, you can do
as we did and make this several days in
advance. Warm to use.

1/2 cup cold water


3/4 cup sugar (150 grams or 5 1/3 ounces) 1 tablespoon
corn syrup
3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup 40% cream, hot
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Place the water, sugar and the corn syrup in a 2-quart


saucepan. Stir over heat until the sugar is dissolved
completely. Bring to a boil; wash sides of pan down with a
natural bristle pastry brush dipped in cold water, then boil
without stirring until the mixture becomes a medium golden
color. Off heat, immediately add the butter and stir until it is
melted. Combine the cream and vanilla then stir in all at
once. If some of the cream lumps up don’t worry. Return to
medium high heat and bring to a boil. Boil to 230 degrees
on a candy thermometer. Pour into a bowl. Do not stir at this
point as it can become granular if you do. Allow it to come
to room temperature. Refrigerate for longer storage.

Yield: 3/4 cup


Chocolate Caramel Truffle Tart
(go to www.theardentcook.com for how to photographs)

I can’t begin to imagine the number of


these tarts we sold over the years. A
perennial favorite both for its taste and
stunning basketweave finish which is so,
so easy.

1 9” Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb


Crust 1 recipe caramel
Base recipe for 9” chocolate truffle tart
Microwave caramel briefly to soften if
made ahead. Spread on the bottom of the
crust. Set aside.

Using a rubber spatula, go around all the


bottom edges of the pan in which the
chocolate truffle mixture was made to
insure all of the chocolate is incorporated.
Pour half of the chocolate truffle filling
over the caramel. Carefully place plastic
film directly on top of chocolate. Place in
refrigerator to set up for several hours or
overnight. Strain the remaining chocolate
truffle filling into a bowl and place plastic
film directly over the remaining half of the
filling; leave at cool room temperature
overnight.

Remove film from fillings. Release the tart.


Fit a pastry bag with a #48 basketweave
tip. If the leftover filling is too firm to press
through the bag, microwave briefly to
piping consistency. Be careful not to soften
too much or the chocolate will not hold its
design. Starting at the top of the tart, pipe
straight lines from left to right about 1/2
inch apart. Turn the tart 90 degrees (1/4
turn) and, again, starting at the top pipe
another set of straight lines left to right
1/2 inch apart. Lastly, turn another 90
degrees (1/4 turn) and pipe the last set of
lines as before. You will now have the
basketweave design. Finish the edge
where the chocolate meets the crust with
a simple reverse border (see the finished
photo).

Place in the cooler to firm up briefly;


release and cut into 10 to 12 servings.
Store in the refrigerator; but serve at room
temperature. This can be made several
days ahead as long as it is protected from
odors in the refrigerator or it freezes well.
If frozen, thaw in refrigerator before
bringing to room temperature to serve.
Chocolate Chip Truffle Tart
A combination of everyone’s favorite, the chocolate chip
cookie and indulgent chocolate truffle filling makes this
more of a good thing. The tiny truffle is sure to please.

Crust
5 tablespoons butter (70 grams or 2 1/2 ounces) softened
1/4 cup brown sugar (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounce) 1/4
cup granulated sugar (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounce) 1
egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon flour (114 grams or 4 ounces) 1/2
teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips (85 grams or 3
ounces)

Spray the sides and bottom of a 9x1 3/4


inch tart pan with removable bottom. Set
aside. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cream the butter and both sugars


together until light. Add the egg and
vanilla and continue mixing until fluffy. In
the meantime, combine the dry
ingredients and whisk to mix. Add the dry
ingredients, mixing well and lastly the
chips. If the dough is very soft, refrigerate
to firm up so it is easier to press in. Press
into the bottom only of the prepared pan.
Bake for 13 to 17 minutes until it is set
and lightly browned. When it comes out it
will be puffy and extend up the sides. Cool
5 minutes and with a spoon, press the
sides of the crusts even with the rest of
the tart so the crust is flat on the bottom
only. Cool completely.

Filling
1 cup + 2 tablespoons 40% cream
6 tablespoons butter (85 gram or 3 ounces) 1/2 cup +1
tablespoon sugar (60 grams or 2 ounces) 11 1/2
ounces semisweet chocolate (325 grams) 1 1/4
teaspoon vanilla

Heat the cream, butter and sugar together just until the
cream is steaming, the butter is melted and the sugar
dissolved. Remove from the heat and submerge the
chocolate under the cream. Let sit for 5 minutes. Stir to melt
chocolate, changing to a whisk to smooth out completely.
Whisk in vanilla. Remove 1/2 cup and refrigerate. Pour the
remainder over the chocolate chip base and refrigerate.
Release the tart.

Finish
1/2 cup 40 % cream
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
1/ 2 teaspoon vanilla

Whip the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla until stiff. Pipe
10 rosettes around the edge of the tart. Scoop 10 small
truffles with a #100 disher or scoop, rolling them into
smooth truffles and place on top of the rosettes, pressing
down slightly.

Serves 10.
Chocolate Mint Truffle Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs) 9” Chocolate Graham
Cracker Crumb Crust 1 cup + 2 tablespoons 40% cream
6 tablespoons butter (85 grams or 3 ounces) 1/2 cup + 1
tablespoon sugar (60 grams or 2 ounces) 11 1/2
ounces (330 grams) semisweet chocolate 1 1/4
teaspoon peppermint extract
1 to 1 1/4 cups crushed peppermint candies, optional

Heat the cream, butter and sugar until the


butter has melted, the sugar is dissolved
and the cream is steaming but not boiling.
Remove from the heat and add the
chocolate submerging it below the cream.
Let sit for 4 or 5 minutes. Stir the
chocolate into the cream, using a whisk
toward the end to smooth completely. Add
the extract; stirring well. Pour all but 1/3
cup into the shell. Refrigerate to set up.
Cover the remainder directly with film and
store at room temperature.

Release the tart. Fit a pastry bag with a 1B


tip and pipe a reverse shell on the seam
between the filling and the crust.
Refrigerate until about an hour before
serving.
Cut into 10 to 12 servings.

Alternate Finish: A beautiful finish for this


tart is to cover the inside the reverse shell
with crushed peppermint candies. I used
starlight mint candies that are individually
wrapped. Crush about 35 mints in their
wraps to keep them contained so they
won’t fly all over the room. Sift them to
remove any powdery candy and sprinkle
the remaining pieces evenly to cover the
top of the tart. You will need 1 to 1 1/4 cup
to cover the top.
Chocolate Truffle Tart With Candied
Cranberries
(go to www.europeantarts.com, for how to photographs)

This unusual tart is perfect for the winter holidays. The


cranberries, which sparkle like jewels, sit atop the truffle
filling. The tart, without the candied cranberry top, can be
made ahead and even frozen for longer storage. Thaw in
refrigerator before assembly. The Candied Cranberries can
be prepared a week ahead if desired. Top the tart with the
cranberries several hours before serving.

Candied Cranberries, recipe below

9” Chocolate Crumb Crust


Base filling for Chocolate Truffle Tart

Candied Cranberries
12 ounce bag of fresh cranberries
1/2 cup water
1 3/4 cup sugar (350 grams)

Place the cranberries in a rimmed baking sheet and pick


over the cranberries. Discard any that aren’t plump and
perfect.

Prepare a steamer by placing a rack on the bottom of a pot


into which the bowl of cranberries will fit. I use an 11” wide
by 3” deep braising pan with straight sides and a lid. I put a
cake cooling rack on the bottom and set a 9” round cake
pan with the cranberries in it on the rack. Bring the water
and sugar to a full boil. Wash the sides of the pan down with
cold water. Pour over the cranberries. Weight the
cranberries down with a plate or two to keep them
submerged below the sugar syrup. Add water to the bottom
pan just below the cranberries. Cover the pan. Bring the
water to a simmer and keep it at a low simmer for 15
minutes. Do not let the water boil as the berries may pop
and you want to keep them as whole as possible. Cool
completely.

If making these in advance, store in the refrigerator in the


syrup.

Prepare the truffle filling and fill the shell to within 1/4 inch
from the top. There may be a bit of filling left. Cover with
plastic wrap and refrigerate to set or freeze for longer
storage. If frozen, thaw in refrigerator before topping.
Release from the pan. Using a slotted spoon, fill the tart with
the cranberries. If the syrup is too thin to glaze the
cranberries, pour it into a small saucepan, bring it to a boil
and cook it to a temperature of 220 degrees. Cool
completely. Spoon as much syrup over the cranberries as
the tart will reasonably hold. Store in the refrigerator. Bring
to room temperature before serving. Cut into 10 to 12
servings.
Chocolate Strawberry Truffle Tart, page 59
Chocolate Strawberry Truffle Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

This is a stunning tart and what is better than chocolate-


coated strawberries? To make this even more inviting, it is
one of the easiest of desserts to make. It’s all in the finish!

9” Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb Crust

Base Recipe for 9” Chocolate Truffle Tart

1 quart ripe strawberries


Prepare the base recipe for the truffle tart and fill the shell.
Refrigerate until set. Release from the pan. This can be done
several days ahead if desired.

Several hours before serving, cut the tops off the


strawberries. Place them, cut side down, on a cutting board.
Depending upon the size of the strawberries, cut straight
down into 4 to 6 evenly spaced slices. Keep them together
and continue in this fashion with the remaining strawberries.
Starting at the outer edge of the tart, lay the strawberries
down slightly over the edge of the filling with the pointed
ends toward the edge of the tart. Continue until you have
completed the circle. Alternate a second circle of
strawberries inside the first circle with the pointed ends
between those of the row above. Continue in this manner
until you have reached the center and completely filled the
tart. The size of the circles will decrease until you have room
for only about 2 to 4 slices in the middle.

Refrigerate until about 1 hour prior to serving.


Make sure to display it for several hours for maximum
effect. Cut into 10 to 12 pieces.

Note: It is most helpful to have the same sized strawberries.


Very, very large or really small ones should be avoided if
possible. If they are of mixed sizes, try to complete the
circles with the same size, starting with the largest on the
outside layers and working toward the center in decreasing
size.

Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Tart (cover photo)

Substitute about 18 ounces (540 grams) of firm raspberries


for the strawberries.
Tropical Truffle Tart
Toasted macadamia nuts with toasted coconut and rum take
to you the tropics in no time at all. This recipe calls for
cream of coconut. There are several brand names - we use
Coco Lopez because it is readily available in our area.
Coconut cream separates in the can, so when you open it
there is usually a solid white mass on top and a heavy liquid
on the bottom. Empty it all into a bowl and whisk together
before measuring. Do not use coconut milk – this is a
different product.

9” Plain Graham Cracker Crumb Crust


1/2 cup macadamia nuts (60 grams, 2 ounces)
1 cup coconut, divided (85 grams, 3 ounces)
1/4 cup 40% cream
1/2 cup cream of coconut
10 ounces white chocolate (285 grams)
1 tablespoon dark rum

1 teaspoon vanilla
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place the nuts on a baking
sheet and toast for about10 to 12 minutes, stirring several
times, until golden brown. Cool completely; chop coarsely.
Keep the oven on.

Place the coconut on a baking sheet in a single layer. Toast


for about 5 minutes, stir well and continue toasting for 3 to
4 minutes. Continue toasting and stirring several minutes at
a time to obtain a uniform golden brown. Cool completely.

In a double boiler combine the cream, cream of coconut and


chocolate. Heat over barely simmering water, stirring often
until the chocolate is melted. Whisk in the rum and vanilla.
Stir in the nuts and 1/3 cup of the toasted coconut.

Pour in the shell and immediately top with the remaining


coconut; pressing in lightly. Chill to set. Release and cut into
10 to 12 servings.
Bottom, Cranberry Linzer Tart, page 68
Top, Peanut Butter Mousse Tart, page 74
Nut Tarts

For all the nuts


out there!
Nut Tarts

General Notes

Almond Raspberry Tart

Cranberry Linzer Tart

Honey Almond Tart

Mocha Glazed Macadamia Caramel Tart

Peanut Butter Mousse Tart

S’Mores Tart

Chocolate Walnut Lace

Chocolate Raspberry Walnut Lace

Raspberry Walnut Lace


General Notes On Nuts
Oh nuts! How often have you heard that? I can’t figure that
out – nuts are so good. They can be used in any segment of
food during the day, eaten raw or dry or oil roasted, salted,
flavored, blanched or unblanched, smoked, candied, whole,
halved, chopped or minced. In addition they come with
shells or without. Nuts are actually dry fruits that, for the
most part, are the kernel enclosed in a shell that can be
hard, medium-hard, thin and brittle or woody and tough.
The popular peanut is not really a nut but a legume and
Brazil nuts, botanically speaking, are seeds. But the
almonds, walnuts, and macadamias used here are true nuts.

If you are buying nuts in their shells (although I don’t know


why you would for baking) choose those heavy for their size
that do not rattle in their shells and have no cracks or holes
in the shells. You will need to buy about twice as much as
you will need as about half will be lost after shelling. On the
other hand, if you buy shelled nuts (which I highly
encourage you to do – remember, I’m trying to make this
easy) try to do so where there is a fast turnover or where
the nuts have been held under refrigeration or frozen. I
bought a variety of shelled nuts, in different cuts from Nida
Trading Co. in Illinois after I checked on how they were
stored. Nuts are full of oil and can go rancid if not held
under the right conditions. After buying I freeze my nuts to
make sure they don’t go rancid, which will ruin any dish you
are making.

Another thing I almost always do is toast nuts to bring out


their flavor. Toasting gives a huge boost to anything they are
in and is easily done by spreading the nuts or nut pieces in a
single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and popping into a
preheated 350-degree oven for 5 to 12 minutes or until
golden and fragrant. The time depends upon the nut and
the cut of the nut. When I had the bakery we would toast a
25 or 30 pound box at once, re-carton them and freeze them
to use as needed. It saved a lot of time in production. For
some reason, the only nut I don’t toast is the walnut and I
can’t give you a good reason as to why not.

While nuts are high in calcium, folic acid, magnesium,


potassium, vitamin E and fiber, the reason we use them is
for texture and taste.
Almond Raspberry Tart
The sophisticated taste of this tart belies its ease of
preparation.

11” Plain Press-In shell, partially baked


1/2 cup good quality seedless raspberry jam or preserves
(130 grams or 4 1/2 ounces) 1 cup almonds,
preferably whole (170 grams or 6 ounces) 4
tablespoons unsalted butter (58 grams or 2 ounces)
2 eggs
1 egg white
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar (150 grams or 5 1/3 ounces)
2 tablespoons Amaretto Liqueur
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 teaspoon almond extract

Spread raspberry jam over partially baked crust. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place almonds on a baking


sheet and bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until deep golden
brown and very fragrant, stirring once or twice. Cool. When
completely cool, grind very finely in food processor fitted
with a steel blade. (Do not grind while hot or warm as they
are very oily and can turn into a paste.) Set aside. Leave the
oven on. Melt butter; set aside. In either a mixer or
processor combine the eggs, egg whites salt and sugar. Add
the almonds; mix. Add the Amaretto, vanilla and almond
extract; mix. Lastly blend in the butter. Pour into shell and
bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown.
Cool. Release from the pan.
To Serve: Sprinkle with powdered sugar; cut into 10 to 12
pieces.
Cranberry Linzer Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

One of the most famous Viennese


pastries, this couldn’t be easier. While the
usual filling is raspberry jam, I have
substituted a bright, vibrant cranberry
filling that pairs wonderfully with the nuts
and cinnamon in the pastry. You could use
an apple filling as well. There are several
ways to get the lattice top on the tart; the
one we used is quick and easy.
Cranberries have a huge amount of
natural pectin that allows the filling to set
up very firmly. This filling is great as a jam
for biscuits and scones also. It lasts for
weeks in the refrigerator so it can be
made well in advance.

Cranberry Filling
1 bag fresh or frozen cranberries (340 grams or 12 ounces)
3 tablespoons water
1/2 cup sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces)

Place the cranberries in a jellyroll or rimmed pan and pick


over them removing any that seem over the hill. Add the
water to a saucepan, the sugar and the cranberries. Bring to
a boil over low heat, stirring very frequently until the
cranberries start supplying additional liquid as they break.
Lower the heat and cook until thickened, stirring often –
about 5 to 10 minutes. Cover the top directly with plastic
wrap. Cool completely before using.

Linzer Pastry
5 ounces toasted almonds or hazelnuts or a combination of
the two (140 grams) 1 1/2 cups flour (205 grams or
7 ounces)
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup unsalted butter, refrigerated (1 1/2 sticks or 170
grams or 6 ounces) 3/4 cup sugar (150 grams or 5
1/3 ounces)
2 egg yolks

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly spray a 9”x3/4”


tart pan with a removable bottom.

Place the almonds, flour and cinnamon in the processor and


process until the almonds are powdered. Cut the butter into
small pieces and add to the processor. Process until the
butter is indistinguishable. Add the sugar and process until
mixed. Lastly add the yolks and process until a ball forms.
Do not be impatient as this may take 1 to 1 1/2 minutes.

Remove 3/4 cup (200 grams or 7 ounces) and set aside.


Divide the remaining piece (565 grams or 20 ounces) in half
(280 grams or 10 ounces each). Set one half aside for the
bottom of the crust and divide the remaining piece in half
again (140 grams or 5 ounces). Roll one piece (140 grams or
5 ounces) into a rope and place it half way around the inside
edge of the pan. Repeat with the second piece. Press these
firmly and evenly around the edge overlapping the edges.
Press the remaining piece (280 grams or 10 ounces) evenly
into the bottom of the pan. Seal the edges by pressing
firmly together so no line is visible. Spread the filling evenly
over the crust.

Divide the 3/4 cup pastry into 10 even balls. Roll into ropes,
placing 5 evenly spaced across the tart sealing the edges
firmly into the crust. Place the next 5 ropes diagonally
across the tart again sealing the edges together.

Place on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes until


lightly browned. Cool completely, remove from the pan and
sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar.

Note: This is definitely best made at least the day before


using. If freezing do not sprinkle with powdered sugar until it
is completely thawed.
Honey Almond Tart
This unusual tart is simple but delicious. It has a delicate
thin candy-like shell on the sides. We used precut almonds
for this, which may not be available. You can substitute
slivered almonds, chopping them lightly, or whole almonds
that have been chopped. The nuts may be blanched or
natural. Chop by hand if necessary, as the processor
pulverizes them too much and the cut is very uneven. You
are looking for about a 1/3 inch dice. The nuts can be
toasted before or after cutting, it makes no difference.

Shortbread Crust
1 stick unsalted butter, softened (114 grams or 4 ounces)
1/4 cup sugar (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounces)
1 1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour (210 grams or 7 ounces)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Beat the butter and sugar together until


very light, almost white. Add the flour,
beat just to incorporate. Spray an 11”x1”
quiche pan with a removable bottom well.
Press the crust into the bottom only. Bake
for 15 to 20 minutes until lightly browned.
Remove from oven; set aside, leave oven
on.

Filling
10 ounces almonds, chopped (285 grams)
1 stick unsalted butter (114 grams or 4 ounces) 1/4 cup
honey (85 grams or 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons sugar (25 grams or 1 scant ounce) 1 cup
packed brown sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces) 2
tablespoons cream
1 teaspoon almond extract

Spread the nuts on a baking sheet. Toast at 350 degrees for


5 to 10 minutes depending upon the size of the nut. Stir
halfway through toasting. Toast to a light brown. Cool
completely. Leave oven on.

In a saucepan, combine the butter, honey, sugar and brown


sugar. Bring to a boil so bubbles cover the entire surface.
Remove from heat; add the cream and almond extract. Be
careful the cream may splatter when it hits the hot liquid.
Stir in the nuts; pour into the shell and bake for 25 minutes.
Cool completely. To release place a pointed offset spatula
between the edge of the crust and the pan in 8 to 10 places.
The pan will slip right off. Free the bottom with a spatula.

To Serve: Cut into 10 to 12 pieces


Mocha Glazed Macadamia Caramel
Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

This is so indulgent, it is almost sinful. To


make it more so - it’s very easy.
1- 11” Plain Press-In shell, partially baked
10 ounces macadamia nuts (285 grams)
1 small orange
1 stick unsalted butter (114 grams or 4 ounces) 1/4 cup
honey (85 grams or 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons sugar (25 grams or 1 scant ounce) 1/2 cup
brown sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 1
tablespoon cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toast nuts for 9 to 12 minutes


depending upon the size of the nut until golden brown,
stirring once or twice. Remove from oven, cool. Chop
coarsely and set aside.

Grate rind from orange, set aside.

Combine butter, honey, sugar, and brown sugar. Bring to a


boil so bubbles cover the entire surface. Remove from the
heat, add the cream and grated orange rind. Stir in the nuts
and pour into the shell. Spread out quickly. Bake for 20 to 25
minutes or until the top is covered with bubbles. Cool;
release from the shell.

Mocha Glaze
1 tablespoon instant coffee
1 teaspoon water
1/2 cup 40% cream
1 tablespoon clear corn syrup
7 ounces good quality milk chocolate (200 grams)

Dissolve the coffee in the water. Heat the


cream with the coffee and corn syrup until
steaming but do not boil. Remove from
heat and add chocolate. Let sit for a few
minutes; whisk to smooth. Immediately
pour over tart. Spread out and refrigerate
to set.

To serve: Cut into 10 to 12 servings (or


more) - this is extremely rich.
Peanut Butter Mousse Tart
If ever there were a favorite flavor in the country, it would
have to be peanut butter. With or without jelly, it is a hands
down favorite. This light version with a caramel topping will
only add to its mystique.

1 plain Press-In shell, fully baked


1/2 cup brown sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 3
tablespoons cream
2 tablespoons butter
3 ounces cream cheese, room temperature (85 grams) 3
ounces peanut butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup cream, stiffly whipped

In a saucepan combine the brown sugar, 3 tablespoons


cream and butter. Heat until the sugar is dissolved and the
butter is melted. Cool to room temperature. Transfer to a
mixing bowl, add the cream cheese, peanut butter and
vanilla and beat until smooth and light in color.

Whip the 1/4 cup cream until stiff. Fold into above mixture
and spread evenly into the prebaked shell. Refrigerate to set
up.

Topping
1/2 cup brown sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 5
tablespoons butter
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons cream
1/4 cup corn syrup
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon cream
150 grams whole peanuts (5 1/3 ounces)
Combine the sugar, butter, water, 2 tablespoons cream and
corn syrup in a medium size saucepan. Bring to a boil and
cook to a temperature of 240 degrees. Remove from the
heat and stir in the 1 tablespoon +1 teaspoon cream. Lastly
sir in the peanuts; pour over chilled filling. Return to the
refrigerator to set up.

Release from the pan and cut into 10 to 12 servings.


S’mores Tart
(go to a www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

A true delight for young or old, this is


quickly made and quickly eaten! I have
been told that s’mores don’t have nuts in
them. All I can say is, mine does!

Plain Graham Cracker Crumb Crust


3/4 cup whole, shelled peanuts (85 grams or 3 ounces) 2
cups mini-marshmallows (85 grams or 3 ounces) 1
cup 40% cream
12 ounces milk chocolate (340 grams)

Place the peanuts and marshmallows evenly in the crust.


Set aside.

Bring the cream to a boil, submerge the chocolate, and set


aside for 5 minutes.

Stir to melt the chocolate, whisking to smooth completely.


Pour over the peanuts and marshmallows, which will rise to
the top. Chill to set. Release. Cut into 10 to 12 servings.
Walnut Lace Tart
One of a family of nut tarts; all with subtle but distinct
variations, this one features several variations of its own.

1 Plain Press-In shell, partially baked


1 stick unsalted butter (114 grams or 4 ounces) 1/4 cup
honey (85 grams or 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons sugar (25 grams or 1 scant ounce) 1/2 cup
brown sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces) 1
tablespoons cream
10 ounces walnut pieces* (285 grams) 2 ounces of
semisweet chocolate (58 grams)

*The walnuts should not be too fine, as they will bubble out
of the crust upon baking. If you are chopping walnut halves,
cut one in quarters and use that as a good guide.

In a saucepan, combine the butter, honey, sugar and brown


sugar. Bring to a boil so bubbles cover the entire surface.
Remove from heat; add the cream. Be careful, the cream
may splatter when it hits the hot liquid. Stir in the nuts, pour
into the shell and bake 25 minutes. Cool completely.
Release.

Melt chocolate in microwave at 1/2 power for about 1


minute. Dip a soupspoon into the melted chocolate and
wave over walnut tart in a circular motion. Repeat as
desired to form a lace pattern.

Cut into 10 to 12 servings. Store and serve at room


temperature. This freezes well.

Walnut Raspberry Tart: Spread 1/2 cup (130 grams or 4


1/2 ounces) good quality seedless red raspberry jam or
preserves on the bottom of the shell after the shell has been
baked. Proceed as directed.
Chocolate Raspberry Walnut Tart: Make the Walnut
Raspberry Tart. Omit the lace on top. Bring 2/3 cup 40%
cream just to a boil. Remove from heat; add 2 1/ 2 ounces
(70 grams) semisweet chocolate. Let sit for a few minutes;
whisk smooth. Spread over top of walnut tart. Refrigerate to
set chocolate.
Top, Chocolate Truffle Tart with Candied Cranberries, page 55
Bottom, Chocolate Coconut Tart, page 85
Miscellaneous Tarts

An eclectic collection
of misfits (the best kind)
Miscellaneous Tarts

General Notes

Chocolate Coconut Tart

Chocolate Pear Tart

Peach Frangipane Tart with Rosemary

Rum Raisin Tart

Triple Chocolate Tart


Miscellaneous Tarts
This collection of recipes consists of some
really good tarts that didn’t find a home in
any of the other categories in this book
but were made at the bakery.
Chocolate Coconut Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

If you love coconut, this one’s for you. It


tastes just like the famous candy bar that
all of us coconut lovers adore. The marble
top is easier than it looks. This recipe calls
for cream of coconut. There are several
brand names - we use Coco Lopez
because it is readily available in our area.
Coconut cream separates in the can, so
when you open it there is usually a solid
white mass on top and a heavy liquid on
the bottom. Empty it all into a bowl and
whisk together before measuring. Do not
use coconut milk – this is a different
product. Often the white chocolate is very
thick after it is melted. To thin it out, a
plain white shortening such as Crisco or
cocoa butter can be used. Any cocoa
butter that states 100% cocoa butter can
be used. We used it at the bakery and
bought it in one ounce sticks at a
drugstore in the beauty department.
1 9” Chocolate Graham Cracker Crumb Crust 3/4 cup cream
of coconut (210 grams or 7 1/2 ounces) 4 ounces
white chocolate 130 grams)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup mascarpone (85 grams or 3 ounces) 3 3/4 cups
sweetened, shredded coconut (255 grams or 9
ounces)

Heat the cream of coconut and white


chocolate until melted but do not boil. Add
the butter and continue to heat gently
until the butter has melted. Remove from
the heat; whisk in the mascarpone. Add
the shredded coconut then pour into the
shell.

Glaze
1/4 cup 40% cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons clear corn syrup
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, cut up finely (115 grams) 2
ounces white chocolate, cut up finely (58 grams)

Crisco or cocoa butter

Heat the cream, butter and clear corn


syrup over medium heat until the butter is
melted and mixture is steaming but do not
boil. Remove from the heat and add the
semisweet chocolate. Let sit for several
minutes; whisk gently to smooth out
chocolate.

Set aside.

Place the white chocolate in a microwave


container and microwave about 1 1/2 to 2
minutes on half power. Stir to smooth. If
the chocolate is too thick to drizzle easily,
melt a tablespoon or so of shortening or
cocoa butter in a microwave. Add a little
at a time until the chocolate will drop from
a spoon in a steady stream without
clumping up.

With an offset spatula, spread the


chocolate glaze to cover the coconut just
to the edge of the coconut. Immediately,
dip a spoon into the melted white
chocolate and holding it 6 to 8 inches over
the chocolate glaze, make random circles
by moving the spoon in a circular motion.
Before either the glaze or white chocolate
start to set, use a toothpick or bamboo
skewer to draw a shallow line top to
bottom near the edge of the tart. Move
over about an inch and draw a shallow line
bottom to top; Repeat till you get to the
other side. Repeat drawing lines sideways
3 or 4 times from the top of the tart to the
bottom. Lastly, pick the tart up and rap it
firmly on the table to smooth out the
topping. Refrigerate to set top or freeze.

The sides should just drop away; if they


don’t, use a pointed offset spatula
between the edge of the tart and the pan.
Release the bottom with a straight spatula
between the bottom of the tart and the
pan.

To Serve: If frozen, thaw overnight in the


refrigerator. This is best served room
temperature in small pieces.
Chocolate Pear Tart, page 89
Chocolate Pear Tart
One of the most unusual tarts we made, this is a testament
to almost anything is better with chocolate. Pears and
chocolate are not a combination seen a lot but after making
this tart will it be a favorite. The cookies are bought from
the grocery.

Coconut Macaroon Crust


1 3/4 cup coconut macaroon cookie crumbs (about 225
grams or 8 ounces) 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
6 tablespoons butter, melted (85 grams or 3 ounces) 8
ounces semisweet chocolate (225 grams) 10
tablespoons butter (150 grams or 5 1/3 ounces) 1
tablespoon light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
4 small ripe pears*

Spray a 9 x 3/4 inch tart pan with a removable rim with


cooking spray. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Crush the cookies between your hands and place them in


the food processor bowl fitted with a steel blade. Add the
sugar and process until finely crumbed. Add the butter and
pulse to moisten the crumbs. Firmly press the crumbs
evenly around the sides and on the bottom of the pan. Bake
for 5 to 7 minutes until lightly colored. Cool completely.

Place the chocolate, butter and corn syrup in the top of a


double boiler over simmering water. Stir until melted. Add
the almond extract. Spread 1/4 cup over the bottom of the
crust. Cut the pears in half and using a melon baller, scoop
out the core and surrounding hard area. Place the pears, cut
side down, pointed end toward the center of the tart shell.
Carefully spoon the remaining glaze over the pears,
covering them completely. To smooth the glaze, pick the pan
up and tap it on the counter several times, shaking from
side to side if necessary. Set aside for about 1 hour for glaze
to set.

Release and cut into 8 servings.

Notes: This can be made the morning before serving and left
at room temperature. It can also be made and refrigerated
the day ahead and returned to room temperature for
serving. However, the glaze will not be as shiny.

*I do not peel the pears as the glaze follows the line of the
pears and if the pears are peeled they are not round and
smooth which is why the pears must be very ripe. Either
way is fine.
Peach Frangipane Tart with Rosemary, page 93
Peach Frangipane Tart With
Rosemary
This unusual tart is perfect in the summer when fresh
peaches abound. However, frozen peaches can be used out
of season. If using frozen peaches, thaw them first and drain
well. However, it is a must to use fresh rosemary.

Plain Press-In shell, partially baked

8 ounces almond paste (225 grams)


4 tablespoons butter (58 grams or 2 ounces) 1/4 cup sugar
(25 grams or 1 scant ounce) 1/8 teaspoon almond
extract
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 3/4 pounds
peeled and sliced peaches (800 grams or 28
ounces)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place all the ingredients but the shell and


peaches in the food processor. Process to
mix completely. Pour into shell. Arrange
the peaches in concentric circles. Bake for
20minutes or until set. Cool Completely.
Release from pan and cut into 10 to 12
pieces.
Rum Raisin Tart
(go to www.europeatarts.com for how to photographs)

This unique tart depends upon browning


the butter for its flavor. When butter is
browned, the milk solids are browned
giving the butter a distinct taste. Watch
carefully towards the end as it goes from
brown to burned very quickly.

9” Plain Press-In shell, partially baked

Topping
6 amaretti cookies (25 grams or 1 ounce) 3 tablespoons
toasted almonds (25 grams or 1 ounce) 3
tablespoons packed brown sugar (35 grams or 1.33
ounces) 1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter, cold (15 grams or .50 ounce)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a


baking sheet with parchment or foil, spray
and set aside.

Place all but the butter in a processor


bowl. Process until large crumbs form. Cut
the butter into several pieces and add to
the bowl. Process to make crumbs. Set
aside.

Filling
2/3 cup raisins (preferably the moist baking version) 2
tablespoons dark rum
3 eggs

1 cup sugar (200 grams sugar or 7 ounces) 1/2 cup flour (70
grams or 2 1/2 ounces) 1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 sticks butter (170 grams or 6 ounces)

If using the dry version of raisins, combine


the raisins and rum in a small bowl. Cover
with film and microwave briefly to heat.
Set aside while making the rest of the
filling.

Mix the eggs, sugar, flour and vanilla with


the paddle attachment of a mixer. Set
aside.

Place the butter in a small pan. Bring to a


boil. Boil gently until the butter turns a
medium brown. Remove from the heat
and immediately whisk into the egg
batter. Stir in the raisins and rum. Pour
into the shell. Sprinkle with topping. Bake
for 20 to 25 minutes until set.

Cool and dust with powdered sugar before


serving.

Cut into 10 servings.


Triple Chocolate Tart
(go to www.europeantarts.com for how to photographs)

We made so many of these throughout the


years, I couldn’t begin to estimate the
number. This was a favorite banquet
dessert and we served hundreds of people
at a time with this beautiful, delicious tart.

11” Chocolate Press-In shell


1/2 teaspoon instant coffee
1/4 cup water
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into pieces (225 grams or 8
ounces) 3/4 cup sugar (150 grams or 5 1/3 ounces)
9 ounces semisweet chocolate (255 grams) 6 egg
yolks
2 tablespoons brandy
1/2 cup 40% cream

Dissolve instant coffee in water. Combine butter, instant


coffee, and sugar in a heavy saucepan. Heat until the butter
is melted, and the mixture is steaming, but not boiling,
stirring constantly. Remove from heat; add the chocolate
and let sit for a few minutes. Whisk to smooth chocolate.
Whisk in the egg yolks and lastly the brandy.

Pour 1 2 /3 cup (400 grams or 14 ounces) into the shell.


Cover the remainder and refrigerate it. Refrigerate or freeze
the tart briefly just to firm the filling as quickly as possible.
When firm, beat the cream just to soft peaks. Do not
overbeat. If the chocolate mixture is at all set, heat briefly,
stirring constantly to return to a liquid state but do not let
get hot. Fold the cream into the chocolate mixture. Pour
over the filling in the shell. Chill or freeze to set.

Release from the pan. Microwave the reserved, refrigerated


filling very briefly, just until it is a pipeable consistency. Fit a
pastry bag with a #1 open star tip and fill with the chocolate
filling. Pipe the chocolate to cover the seam where the crust
meets the filling. Mark your tart into the number of serving
pieces you desire and make a small rosette to the right side
of each mark.

Store in refrigerator or freeze.

To serve: Cut into 10 or 12 servings.


Bibliography
Food Lover’s Companion, Third Edition by Sharon
Tyler Herbst
The Professional Pastry Chef, Second Edition by Bo
Friberg. Pastry Cream
USDA Bulletin on Butter Standards

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