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Lulu Loves The Moon Georgie
Lulu Loves The Moon Georgie
© 2023 Lulu loves the moon – This pattern is for personal use only. You are not allowed to distribute, publish
(neither in print nor digital), translate, exchange or sell this pattern. The finished products can be sold if they are
handmade by yourself and only in limited quantity (no wholesale, only direct customer sales). Photos of this
product can be published on the internet if Lulu loves the moon is clearly stated as the designer (“pattern by
@lululovesthemoon” and #lululovesthemoon).
doll 2
doll 3
doll 1
doll 1.
skin tone (colour A): Babytoly 434 Ecru
sweater and collar (colour B): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Dusty Honey
wig (colour C): Ecobebek 545 Marple (alternatively: Babytoly 535 Birch)
curls (colour D): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Nature
boarder of the collar (colour E): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Cream
wings (colour F): Babytoly 870 Sky
pants (colour G): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Ocher Brown
doll 2.
skin tone (colour A): Babytoly 434 Ecru
sweater and collar (colour B): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Trenchcoat
wig (colour C): Babytoly 250 Beige
curls (colour D): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Nordic Beach
boarder of the collar (colour E): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Cream
wings (colour F): Babytoly 870 Sky
pants (colour G): Knitting for Olive Merino col. Dusty Aqua
doll 3.
skin tone (colour A): Babytoly 434 Ecru
sweater and collar (colour B): Babytoly Confetti col. Pumpkin Spice
wig (colour C): Babytoly 018 Sand
curls (colour D): Babytoly 018 Sand
boarder of the collar (colour E): Babytoly 780 Mustard
wings (colour F): Ecobebek 975 Argentino (alternatively: Babytoly 975 Silver)
pants (colour G): Babytoly 850 Duck Egg Blue
rnd(s): round(s)
R(s): row(s)
inc: increase
dec: decrease
(…) x…: repeat the instructions in the brackets as indicated after the brackets
st(s): stitch(es)
col: colour
• When using similar or the same yarn with the same hook size, Georgie will be
approx. 26-27 cm tall.
• When you need to decrease, make Invisible Decrease crochet stitches to have a
neater result.
• Please be aware that when you use different yarns and hook sizes, the outcome may
vary and you may have to adjust the size of eyes.
• Colour change is worked at the end of the previous stitch. Work the last stitch
before the colour change as usual but don´t complete the last stitch. When you have
two loops on your hook, yarn over in the new yarn colour and finish the stitch.
Continue working with the new colour.
• In this pattern you will find two versions how to crochet the doll (Georgie made
with cotton yarn and hair and clothes made with merino yarn starting at page 6
OR Georgie completely crocheted with cotton yarn, starting at page 28). Because
certain parts of the body and clothes turn out differently depending on which yarn
you use, the pattern has been adapted accordingly and is divided into two versions.
• Please note the proportions of the doll and his clothes will only be correct if you use
yarn of a similar (or the same) thickness as indicated.
• As an add-on you can find 2 short patterns for flowers on the last pages. There are
no step-by-step pictures included. Instead, there will be video tutorials coming soon
on my Instagram channel @lululovesthemoon.
Finish with 1 sl st, cut the yarn leaving a long thread for sewing onto the body later. Stuff the
head with much polyfiber fill until it has a pretty and round form with having bumps. When
you recognize that the stitches expand and the holes between get bigger and the stuffing
gets visible, then remove a little bit of the stuffing material.
Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Start with colour A. Colour B further on.
Crochet in rows. Hook size 2,5 mm. Start with colour B. From R5 colour E. Turn the body
upside down.
R1: Start with a standing hdc into the front loops at the top of the body, crochet a 2nd hdc
into this st. Continue crocheting 2 hdc in every front loop until you reach the penultimate st.
Skip the last st to create a collar which is open in the front). Crochet 2 ch (doesn’t count as
hdc), turn the work.
R2: Crochet again 2 hdc into every hdc of the previous rnd. Crochet 2 ch, turn the work.
Rs3-4: Crochet 1 hdc into every hdc of the previous rnd. Cut the yarn and pull it through the
loop. Sew the threads carefully on the underside of the collar
R5: To create a nice boarder of the collar you crochet with “reverse single crochet stitch /
crab stitch”. This stitch is made like a normal sc but crocheted in the opposite direction.
Take colour E and pull the thread through the 1st st of R4, crochet 1 ch. Continue working
clockwise. Go to the next st, pull up a loop onto the hook, pull it through the st, pill up a
loop again onto the hook an dpull the thread through both loops on the hook. Crochet
until you reach the end of the r, cut the yarn and pull it through the loop. Sew both thread
ends on the underside of the reverse single crochet sts.
The hair will be crocheted in two steps: first we crochet the hair cap. Onto this cap we will
crochet the curls later (see the next page).
hair cap.
Crochet in spiral rounds. Hook size 2,5 mm. Make sure that the yarn of the hair cap and the
curls should be of a similar shade. The complete hair cap is crocheted in BLO! Colour C.
Finish the work with 1 sl st, cut the yarn and sew the thread. (If the doll is for a small child,
don’t sew the thread. Leave it long and sew the complete hair onto the head later on.)
Hook size 3 mm. Colour D. Take the hair cap and start with the 1st st of the remaining front
loops (at the top of the piece, where you started with the MR). From this point you crochet
counterclockwise curl for curl.
Push the hook into the 1st front loop, pull up a loop and pull it through the loop. Crochet 6
sc. Now crochet along the chain: start into the 2nd ch of hook and make 3 sc into this ch.
Repeat this with the next 4 ch (into every ch -> 3 sc). Crochet 1 sl st into the next 3 loops of
the hair cap. Now make the next curl by crocheting again 6 ch, and 3 sc into each 5 ch
along. Crochet another 3 sl st into the loops of the hair piece.
Repeat this scheme until you reach the last loop of the hair cap. In this last loop make 1 sl st,
cut the yarn and sew all remaining threads carefully.
Don’t stuff the arm. Finish with 1 sl st and sew the thread.
rnd 5: Now take the arm and put it through the sleeve hole, so that the last rounds are even.
The stitches from both last rounds – arm and sleeve – are now joined together by
crocheting sc through the stitches of the sleeve and through the front loops of the stitches
of the arm. Since the arm consists of only 8 stitches, you can crochet the last 3 stitches only
through the sleeve. It’s important that you have 11 sc at the end of the round.
rnds 6-11: 11 sc (11) (6 rounds)
Crochet another 6 sc, flatten the arm and crochet both sides together with 4-5 sc to close
the arm.
Stuff the leg continuously from beginning, so that the leg doesn’t get bumpy.
Flatten the leg and crochet both sides together with 5-6 sc. Cut the yarn and pull it through
the loop.
version 1
version 2
After you now have 2 pairs of wings, you also sew these two together in the middle. Later
you can sew it onto the doll’s back.
After you now have 2 pairs of wings, you also sew these two together in the middle. Later
you can sew it onto the doll’s back.
Now sew the head onto the body. It is easier if you take the hair off the head again for this.
After that you can put the hair back on the head. With pink or red blush and a brush you
can paint cheeks under the eyes.
Sew the arms directly under the collar on the left and right of the body.
The legs are sewn onto the body between rnd 9 and 10 with a distance of 15 stitches.
At the end you can sew the wings exactly in the middle of the back.
The main part of the dungarees is crocheted from the top down. Later the bib will be
added.
Crochet 46 ch, close them to a ring with 1 sc into the first ch.
rnds 1-15: 46 sc (46) (15 rounds)
From here now crochet the two legs of the dungarees by splitting the 46 stitches into two
parts and forming two new rings.
rnd 1: Count backwards from the hook 23 stitches. Mark this 23rd stitch with a stitch marker
and crochet 1 sc into this marked stitch (this is your first circle).
Crochet another 22 sc. (23)
rnd 2: 23 sc (23)
Finish the pant leg with 1 sl st and sew the thread carefully.
2. pant leg:
rnd 1: Start next to the first pant leg with a standing sc and
crochet clockwise another 22 sc. (23)
rnd: 23 sc (23)
Finish the pant leg with 1 sl st and sew both threads.
bib:
Now lay the pants smoothly in front of you and count the stitches from right to left. Count 9
stitches exactly in the middle of the pant and mark the first and the last st with 2 stitch
markers. Crochet in rows.
R1: Start with a standing sc into the marked stitch on the right and crochet another 8 sc. 1
ch, turn. (9)
Rs2-4: 9 sc, 1 ch, turn. (9) (3 rows)
Put on your dolls pants and crochet approximately 20 ch (you may need more or less ch for
your suspenders). The suspenders should fit not too loose but also not too tight so that it’s
still possible to take off the dungarees easily over one arm.
Guide the suspenders backwards over the right shoulder, diagonally across the back to the
upper right edge of the pants.
There you can join the suspenders to the pants with 1 sl st. Cut the yarn and pull it through
the loop. Sew all remaining threads on the inside of the dungarees.
head.
body.
See pattern from page 7 (instead of the double thread from rnd 12, you just continue crocheting normally
with your chosen cotton yarn).
collar.
Crochet in rows. Hook size 2,5 mm. Start with colour B. from R5 Farbe E. Turn the body
upside down.
R1: Start with a standing hdc into the front loops of the last rnd of the body, crochet a 2nd
hdc into this st. Continue crocheting 2 hdc (= hdc inc) in every front loop until you reach the
penultimate st. Skip the last st to create a collar which is open in the front. Crochet 2 ch
(doesn’t count as hdc), turn the work
R2: *Crochet 1 hdc in a hdc of previous rnd, then crochet 2 hdc into a hdc of previous rnd
(= hdc inc)* repeat from * to * until the end of row. Crochet 2 ch, turn.
Rs3-4: Crochet 1 hdc into every hdc of the previous rnd. Cut the yarn and pull it through the
loop. Sew the threads carefully on the underside of the collar.
R5: To create a nice boarder of the collar you now crochet the “reverse single crochet stitch
/ crab stitch”. This st is made like a normal sc but crocheted in the opposite direction.
Take colour E and pull the thread through the 1st st of R4, crochet 1 ch. Continue working
clockwise. Go to the next st, pull up a loop onto the hook, pull it through the st, pill up a
loop again onto the hook an dpull the thread through both loops on the hook. Crochet
until you reach the end of the r, cut the yarn and pull it through the loop. Sew both thread
ends on the underside of the reverse single crochet sts.
Hook size 3 mm. Colour D. Take the hair cap and start with the 1st st of the remaining front
loops ( at the top of the piece, where you started with the MR). From this point you crochet
counterclockwise curl for curl.
Push the hook into the 1st front loop, pull up a loop and pull it through the loop. Crochet 6
sc. Now crochet along the chain: start into the 2nd ch of hook and make 3 sc into this ch.
Repeat this with the next 4 ch (into every ch -> 3 sc). Crochet 1 sl st into the next 4 loops of
the hair piece. Now make the next curl by crocheting again 6 ch, and 3 sc into each 5 ch
along. Crochet another 4 sl st into the loops of the hair piece.
Repeat this scheme until you reach the last loop of the hair cap. In this last loop make 1 sl st,
cut the yarn and sew all remaining threads carefully.
See pattern from page 13 (instead of the double thread in sleeve version 1, continue crocheting normally
with your chosen cotton yarn).
Stuff the leg continuously from beginning, so that the leg doesn’t get bumpy.
Flatten the leg and crochet both sides together with 5-6 sc. Cut the yarn and pull it through
the loop.
The main part of the dungarees is crocheted from the top down. Later the bib will be
added at the top.
Crochet 48 ch, close them to a ring with 1 sc into the first ch.
rnds 1-14: 48 sc (48) (14 rounds)
From here now crochet the two legs of the dungarees by splitting the 48 stitches into two
parts and forming two new rings.
1. pant leg:
rnd 1: Count backwards from the hook 24 stitches. Mark this 24th stitch with a stitch marker
and crochet 1 sc into this marked stitch (this is your first ring).
Finish the pant leg with 1 sl st and sew the thread carefully.
rnd 1: Start next to the first pant leg with a standing sc and crochet clockwise
another 23 sc. (24)
rnds 2&3: 24 sc (24) (2 rounds)
Now lay the pants smoothly in front of you and count the stitchs from right to left. Count 6
sts and mark the 7th with a stitch marker. Now continue counting 12 sts and mark this 12th st
with a 2nd stitch marker. Into these 12 sts you will now crochet the first row of the bib.
R1: Start with a standing sc into the st which you marked with the 1st stitch marker, crochet
another 11 sc. 1 ch, turn.
R2: 9 sc, dec, skip 1 sc, turn.
R3: skip 1 sc, dec, 7 sc, 1 ch, turn.
R4: 5 sc, dec, skip 1 sc, turn.
R5: skip 1 sc, dec, 3 sc.
Put on your dolls pant, take the yarn and start on the back left with 1 sl st in the upper edge
of the pants, crochet 30 ch. Cut the yarn and pull it through the loop. With a tapestry
needle, sew the thread so that you form a loop from the chain, with which you can then
attach the suspenders to the button.
Place the calyx leaf in front of you so that the wrong side is facing upwards. Work
counterclockwise into each remaining stitch of the calyx leaf. Take the thread and pull it
through the first stich with the hook. Crochet 8 ch. 1 sc into the 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc, 3 tr,
1 dc, 1 sc = 7 stitches until you reach the end of the chain.
1 sl st into the next remaining stitch. Repeat the procedure until you have crocheted 10
flower petals
Finish with 1 sl st, cut the yarn und sew all yarns.
Now sew the yellow inner part in the middle of the flower.