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Fashion design

Level-II
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1

Module Title: - Performing Garment Product Finishing


Module code: IND FAD2 M11 0322
Nominal duration: 40Hour

Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill

August, 2022
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Table of Content

Table of Content............................................................................................................................ 1

Acknowledgment ........................................................................................................................... 3

Introduction to the Module .......................................................................................................... 4

Unit one: Apply finishes .............................................................................................................. 5


1.1 Identifying and checking needed finishing touches ........................................................ 7
1.2 Marking and attaching accessories and accents positions. .............................................. 7
1.2.1 Normally garment accessories can be classified in three ways: ........................... 8
1.2.2 Performing finishing operations. ........................................................................... 9
1.3 Performing finishing operations. ................................................................................... 14
1.4. Checking garment missing buttons and attachments. ...Error! Bookmark not defined.
1.4.1 Worked Buttonholes ............................................Error! Bookmark not defined.
1.5. Folding and pinning body hem allowance and sleeves. ............................................... 15
1.5.1 Folding of a Short-Sleeve T-shirt ........................................................................ 15
1.5.2 Pant folded side-to-side ....................................................................................... 16
1.5.3 Pant folded front-to-back .................................................................................... 16
1.6. Sewing hemline allowance in according to the given stich.......................................... 16
1.6.1. Kinds of Hem ..................................................................................................... 16
Self-check-1 ........................................................................................................................ 17
Operation Sheet 1 ................................................................................................................ 18
Lap Test-1 ........................................................................................................................... 19

Unit Two: Trimming excess threads ........................................................................................ 20


2.1. Checking Garment for loose threads ............................................................................ 21
2.2. Trimming the Excess threads ....................................................................................... 21
2.3. Reversing and hanging Garments ................................................................................ 22
Self-check-2 ........................................................................................................................ 24
Operation Sheet 2 ................................................................................................................ 25

Unit Three: Press finished garments ........................................................................................ 28

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3.1. Preparing fabric and pressing tools .............................................................................. 29
3.1.1 Pressing Tools and Equipment and Their Uses................................................... 29
3.2. Setting up, cleaning and checking Pressing machines ................................................. 31
3.2.1. General Pressing Techniques ............................................................................. 31
3.3. Identifying faults, spots and marks .............................................................................. 31
3.3.1. Critical defects for garments .............................................................................. 32
3.3.2 Major defects for garments ................................................................................. 33
3.3.3 Minor defects for garments ................................................................................. 33
3.4. Applying Heat/Pressure................................................................................................ 34
3.4.1 Categories or types of garment pressing: ............................................................ 35
3.5. Sequencing press .......................................................................................................... 35
Operation sheet-3 ................................................................................................................ 38
Lap Test-3 ........................................................................................................................... 40

Unit Four: Package finished garment ...................................................................................... 41


4.1. Packing finished garments. .......................................................................................... 42
4.1.1 Apparel Packaging Sequence .............................................................................. 42
4.2. Labelling garment packages. ........................................................................................ 44
4.3. Cleaning workstation after. .......................................................................................... 45
Self-Check -4 ....................................................................................................................... 46
Operation sheet-4 ................................................................................................................ 47
Lap Test-4 ........................................................................................................................... 49

Reference ..................................................................................................................................... 51

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Acknowledgment
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many
representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and
expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).

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Introduction to the Module
This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in applying finishing touches,
attaching the needed accessories and accent, trimming of excess threads, pressing finished
garment and packaging of finished garment.
This module covers the units:
 Applying finishes
 Trimming excess threads
 Pressing finishing garments
 Packaging finishing garment
Learning Objective of the Module
 Apply finishes
 Trim excess threads
 Press finishing garments
 Package finishing garment
Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

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Unit one: Apply finishes
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:

 Identifying and checking needed finishing touches

 Marking and attaching accessories and accents.


 Performing finishing operations.

 Checking garments for missing accessories or trims attachments.


 Folding and pinning body hem allowance and sleeves.

 Sewing hemline allowance in according to the given stich.

This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

 Needed finishing touches are identified and checked in accordance with garment
design/style specifications

 Accessories’ and accents’ positions are marked and attached in accordance with garment
design/style specification

 Finish operations are performed in accordance with customer’s specifications and


standard procedures

 Garment is checked for missing buttons and attachments

 Bodice hem allowances and sleeves are folded and pinned in accordance with
customer’s specifications.

 Hemline allowances are sewn in accordance with the given stitch/seam specifications

Learning Instructions:

1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.


2. Follow the instructions described in number 3 to 15.
3. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 1”. Try to understand what are being
discussed. Ask you trainer for assistance if you have hard time understanding them.
4. Accomplish the “Self-check 1” in page 07.

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5. Ask from your trainer the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your trainer to
correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished answering the Self-
check 1).
6. If you earned a satisfactory evaluation proceed to “Information Sheet 2”. However, if your
rating is unsatisfactory, see your trainer for further instructions or go back to Learning Activity
#1.
7. Submit your accomplished Self-check. This will form part of your training portfolio.
8. Read the information written in the “Information Sheet 2”. Try to understand what are being
discussed. Ask you trainer for assistance if you have hard time understanding them.
9. Accomplish the “Self-check 2” in page 15.
10. Ask from your trainer the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your trainer to
correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished answering the Self-
check 2).
11. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 3. Try to understand what are being
discussed. Ask you trainer for assistance if you have hard time understanding them.
12. Accomplish the “Self-check 3” in page 21.
13. Ask from your trainer the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your trainer to
correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished answering the Self-
check 3).
14. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 4. Try to understand what are being
discussed. Ask you trainer for assistance if you have hard time understanding them.
15. Accomplish the “Self-check 4” in page 54.
16. Ask from your trainer the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your trainer to
correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished answering the Self-
check 3).
17. If you earned a satisfactory evaluation proceed to “Operation Sheet 1” in page 58. However,
if your rating is unsatisfactory, see your trainer for further instructions or go back to Learning
Activity #1.
18. Do the “LAP test” in page 63 (if you are ready). Request your trainer to evaluate your
performance and outputs. Your trainer will give you feedback and the evaluation will be either
satisfactory or unsatisfactory. If unsatisfactory, your trainer shall advice you on additional work.
But if satisfactory you can proceed to Learning Guide.

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1.1 Identifying and checking needed finishing touches
It is realistic to assume that however well checking or quality control procedures operate within a
factory there will always be a certain percentage of garments rejected for some reason or other.
The best way to carry out quality checks is by establishing a standard as a criterion for measuring
quality achievement. Production results can be measured and compared to the planned quality
standard. Corrective measures to be carried out if there are any deviations in the plans. Ideally,
any system should detect possible deviations before they occur through forecasting. Work
produced with minus defects will produce quality products, enhance economy and productivity.
When ordering a number of different sizes of garments are sure to consider how to sort these
garments among shipping cartons. For example, how many women’s dresses of each size small,
medium, large and extra-large should each carton contain? Imagine the frustration of receiving
20 extra-small dresses and only three extra-large dresses when you intended to receive the same
proportion of every size. You can prevent this problem by including assort
For some products, such as promotional goods, the quality of input materials might not
drastically impact salability. But fabric quality is a major determinant of the quality and
salability of the finished product when manufacturing garments. Product testing of your
garments, both on-site and in a qualified laboratory provides assurance that your product meets
your quality standards.
Regardless of your particular requirements, it’s vital that you, your supplier and your inspection
team have a clear understanding of what’s expected. All relevant parties need ready access to
current specifications, inspection criteria and any other quality documents. Be sure to continually
update your product specifications after inspection to reflect any unforeseen quality issues found
during inspection and other changes.
1.2 Marking, checking and attaching accessories and accents.
A garment is made not only from the apparel fabric but also various accessory items. Fabric is
the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric of garment, the other materials are
known as garment accessories. These have to be chosen in such a way that they complement the
outer fabric both aesthetically, in terms of decoration, and practically, in terms of ensuring that
the garment performs as expected in its intended end use. Various kinks of accessories are used
on garments; some are part of the garments such as buttons, zippers, interlining etc. while others
are used for decorating and enhancing the product.

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1.2.1 Normally garment accessories can be classified in three ways:
Table 1.1: The three type of garment accessories
A. Garment accessories/ B. Decorative A. Finishing
accessories accessories
Basic accessories:

 Thread  Elastic tape

 Zipper  Buttonhole  There are some


tape finishing
 Interlining accessories:
 Piping
 Button for example: Snap button,  Hang tag
Plastic button, .Metal button.  Moiré ribbon
 Price tag
 Label: Main label , Size Label, Wash  Seaming tape
care label  Plastic/ poly bag
 Welted tape
 Motif: Leather, Plastic, batch Metal  Tissue paper
 Ribbed tape
 Pocketing fabric  Carton
 Velvet ribbon
 Pocketing fabric  Scotch tape

 Lining  Tag pin

 Velcro  Plastic clip

 Rivet  Sticker

 Collar bone.  Butterfly

 Collar insert

 Back board

 Necks insert

Accessories can transform a basic assortment of cuts of fabric into a fully functional and stylish
piece of apparel. Most of the above garment defects related to accessories can easily be repaired
or reworked before the goods have left the factory. And there’s usually little danger of
introducing new defects into the garment when reworking these issues. If a button is missing, the
factory can simply sew one on right away.

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Buttons are one of the accessories of a garment most susceptible to falling off. Many
manufacturers even sew an extra button to the garment or include one in the packaging for
consumers as a replacement.
But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t pay attention to button defects during inspection. In fact,
since buttons are so susceptible to functional and durability issues, evaluating buttons and
buttonhole stitching should be an even higher priority during clothing inspection.
Fatigue tests and pull tests can help you verify the function and durability of the button itself. But
a button without a functional buttonhole doesn’t serve much purpose. There are no particular on-
site tests for the buttonhole itself. But your inspector should look out for a number of quality
defects related to buttonhole stitching during garment inspection.
How to classify buttonhole defects for garment inspection?
Most quality issues related to buttons are classified as “major” defects using standards. But you
may choose to class them differently based on your own quality expectations. Major defects are
quality issues that lower the value or usability of a product and might cause a customer to return
it. Defects related to buttons can hurt sales and brand perception so most garment importers
generally prefer to limit these as much as possible. Some common examples of buttonhole
defects and the problems they cause are:
Incomplete, skipped stitches or untrimmed threads around the buttonhole can cause the button to
catch or make it difficult to fasten the garment.
An improperly sized buttonhole can make the garment easily come unfastened or difficult to
fasten at all.
Buttonholes sewn vertically when they should be sewn horizontally and vice versa can affect
function and style of a garment. Buttons and Buttonholes
Buttons are the most common fastener used in different types of garments. Buttons are those
with shank and with 2 or four holes. They are used as fastener or decorations.
Ways of attaching Buttons

1. Square

2. Parallel

3. Cross

4. Arrow head

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5. Common way

Figure 1.7: ways of attaching button

1.2.2 Worked Buttonholes


Ladies blouses are usually buttoned from right to left so the buttonholes should be made on the
right of the blouse. Holes through which buttons pass through are called “buttonholes”. If the
blouse is buttoned down at the front, the buttonholes maybe placed horizontally or vertically.
Horizontal buttonholes are made ½ centimetres outside the centreline. While the vertical
buttonholes are made on the centre line. The mark of the exact length of buttonholes should be ¼
centimetre to ½ centimetre longer than the diameter of the button.
I. Buttonholes
Buttonhole should be cut crosswise or lengthwise following are thread of the material. Use sharp
and pointed scissors when cutting the buttonholes.
Horizontal buttonholes are made by making a fan at one end and a bar at the other end while
vertical buttonholes are squared with buttonholes stitches at both ends.

Figure 1.8: Buttonhole


II. Snaps
Snaps are used on flat surface where there is a little
stain. These are commonly used for baby dresses.

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Figure 1.9: Snaps

III. Zipper
Zipper, otherwise known as a slide fastener, is used to close-openings in many different types of
garments. It is mostly used in skirts and pants. Zipper is made with metal teeth or coils of nylon
or polyester that mesh together.

Figure 1.10: Zipper


IV. Hook-and-Eye
Hook-and-eye is used to fasten opening which has considerable strain. Belts and neck openings
use hook-and-eyes. There are two kinds of eyes – the round and straight. The round eye is used
where the edges of the opening just meet, while the straight eye is used on edges laps.
Sometimes a thread loop is used on a straight eye if a very flat closing is desired.

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Figure 1.11: hook and eye
1.2.3 Performing sewing operations.
Seam finishes are most determined by the fabrics and their uses on the garments. Standard seam
allowance on pattern is 5 / 8 or 1.5 centimetre wide.
Type of Seam Finishes
1. Pinked Seam is used for non-fray able fabrics like wool, silk, velvet, etc. Use pinking
shears in trimming the edges.

Figure 1.1: Pinked seam

2. Overcast open seam is used in over casting the edges of seams. Blanket stitches are used in
this type of seams.

Figure 1.2: Overcast open seam

3. Edge turned and stitch seam is a stronger finish than pinking and overcast seam finishes.
This is suitable for lightweight fabrics. Trim the seams and turn raw edges. Machine stitch or
make running stitches on the edges.

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Figure 1.3: Edge turned and stitch seam

4. Overcasting stitch is a slanting or diagonal stitch over the new edge of seams to keep the
cloth from ravelling.

Figure 1.4: Overcasting stitch

5. Zigzag open seam is a seam finish for open seam when there is only zigzagged available.

Figure 1.5: zigzag open seam

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6. Over edged seam is seam finish if there is an over edging machine. It is also known as
overclocked seam.

Figure 1.6: Over edged seam

1.3 Performing finishing operations.


Garment production is an organized activity consisting of sequential processes such as laying,
marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and packaging. This is a process of
converting raw materials into finished products. It will be difficult to maintain the industry if
production is not, up to the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not
properly carried out. Ready to wear apparel or garment manufacturing involves many processing
steps, beginning with the idea or design concept and ending with a finished product. Apparel
manufacturing process involves Product Design, Fabric Selection and Inspection, Patternmaking,
Grading, Marking, Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and
Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc. Finally we can say that, finishing is a beautification
process of garments. To achieve a good result in finishing, it is absolutely essential that the
garments are well prepared, and that the recipes and processes are strictly followed and exactly
monitored. Process Flow Chart of Garments Finishing:

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Sewn garments received in finishing section

Initial quality check

Spot removing if there’s any spot

Ironing or pressing

Inspection

Hang tag attaching

Folding

Poly bag

Metal check

Packaging or cartooning

1.5. Folding and pinning body hem allowance and sleeves.


After completing pressing, the garments are folded with a predetermine area. Garments are
folded according to the buyer’s direction, requirements in a standard area.

There are mainly 4 types available for folding shirt is given below-

Stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 90 degree angle.

Semi-stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 45 degree angle.

Flat pack: Collar is spread as a whole on the body of shirt.

Hanger pack: Shirt is packed and transported by hanging on the hanger. At the end of folding,
garment are placed into a polythene packet, the size of polythene packet is permanent.

1.5.1 Folding of a Short-Sleeve T-shirt


Fold the arms straight across back.
Fold the shirt side seams across back of shirt.

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Fold the bottom edge of shirt about 2-inches from the bottom.
Fold the shirt in half
1.5.2 Pant folded side-to-side
Close zipper and waist buttons.
Fold pant in half, with inseam to out seam keeping ends of waistband to inside of pant.
Fold leg in thirds – fold bottom edge to above knee and fold up to waist edge.
1.5.3 Pant folded front-to-back
Close zipper and waist buttons.
Fold pant front to back with fold at rise
Fold leg in thirds bottom edge to above knee and fold up to waist edge
1.6. Sewing hemline allowance in according to the given stich.
Hemming is a kind of stitch that holds folded edge like hem and facings.
1.6.1. Kinds of Hem
1. Blind or slip stitch is done under an edge or through a folded edge. It does not hold hem
rigidly to the skirt.
2. Slant hemming is the simplest among the hemming stitches. It is for fastening bands, binding
cuff etc.
3. Catch stitch is used to hold the raw edges of the interfacing and placed along fold lines. It is
done in between the hem and fabric. It can be used when hemming heavy fabrics that stretch to
prevent a ridge from showing on the right side of the garment.
4. Lock stitch is a type of blanket stitch done between the hem and outer fabric.
5. Machine stitch may be used in garment in which hem is not advisable to use.

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Self-check-1 Written test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.


I. Choice the best answer
1. Which one is not included under types of garment accessories?
A. Buttons B. Zippers C. Interlining D. All E. None
2. Which one is pinked seam?
A) Is used for non-frayable fabrics
B) Used in over casting the edge of seam
C) Is stronger finish than pinked and over cast seam inish
D) All
3.which one is used for hook and eye?
A) Is used to asten opening which has considerable strain B) Mostly used in skirt and pant
C) Commonly used for baby dress D) All
4.which one is used for hook and eye?
A) Is used to asten opening which has considerable strain
B) Mostly used in skirt and pant
C) Commonly used for baby dress
D) All
5.Heming means?
A) kind of stitch that olds folded edge like hem and facing
B) are the most common fastner used in different types of garment
C) used on flat surface where there is little stain
D) none
II: Say true or false
1. Finishing is a beautification process of garments.
2. Blind or slip stitch is done under an edge or through a folded edge.
3. Garment production is an organized activity consisting of sequential processes.

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Operation Sheet 1 Applying finishes

Task -1 Garment finishing process


Garment finishing through garment wet processing add value to the garments and the additional
effects become the clear differentiator. Garment finishing can be used for various applications,
be it shirts, trousers or t-shirts, but majority of the effects are most popular for casual wear and
denim segment. Garment finishing department takes care of the following functions:

Trimming

Stain removing

Repairing

Pressing

Task -2 - After stitching process


After stitching, there will be some hanging sewing threads on the finished product. Trimming is
the operation of removing these extra hanging threads. Sometimes, finished products get stained
during the production process. Finishing department is responsible to remove those stains by
using different wetting agents. Some of the sewn products may also have some open seams or
other stitching faults. The finishing department repairs such products before packing. The last
objective of finishing department is pressing. The sewn products are pressed to remove the
wrinkles and to enhance the look of the garment.

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Lap Test-1
Written test

Give short answer


1. Write garment accessories can be classified and there examples.

2. Write Types of Seam Finishes.

3. Write Process Flow Chart of Garments Finishing.

4. How to classify buttonhole defects for garment inspection?

5. What is folding and pinning?

6. Write types of folding shirt.

7. List and explain kinds of hem.

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Unit Two: Trimming excess threads
This unit to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content coverage
and topics:

 Checking Garment for loose threads

 Trimming the Excess threads

 Reversing and hanging Garments in accordance with standard procedures

This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

 Garment is checked for loose threads

 Excess threads are trimmed in accordance with sewing procedures

 Garments are reversed and hanged in accordance with standard procedures

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2.1. Checking Garment for loose threads
Shoppers typically buy a well-made shirt or blouse off a store shelf and take for granted that
there are no noticeable loose threads or other product defects. In fact, most consumers have no
idea of the processes involved in garment manufacturing and the defects that can occur along the
way.
But soft lines experts can appreciate the oversight needed to manufacture a single piece of
clothing that’s defect free. Purchasers, product developers, quality managers and others in the
industry tend to be keenly aware of the margin of error common to mass producing garments.
They know that pre-shipment garment inspection is vital to ensuring the goods meet their quality
standards.
Product inspection of garments is a highly specialized area within the realm of quality control. It
has distinct processes and specific terminology to define parts of clothing and their defects. QC
inspectors and other industry professionals use these standards to ensure garments conform to
importer specifications. And straying from these standards during the production and inspection
process could lead to an unsellable order of garments.
Understanding the different types of quality defects for garments and how to classify them is the
first step to preventing or greatly reducing them. Let’s look more closely at how to classify
garment defects for inspection.
2.2. Trimming the Excess threads

Fig 2. Thread trimming machine


Most factories practice manual thread cutting by hand trimmer (See below image). This manual
process increases the chance of damaging garment pieces. It may increase number of defective
garments in a lot. Therefore it is good to invest on automatic thread trimming machines. Other
than trimming of stitching threads, one may need to trim embroidery threads and beading
threads.

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Fig 2.1 Two head thread trimmer
Trimmings scissors are cutting tools with blade under 6 inches in length and with identical
handle.
Sharp scissors make clean cut and well defined notches. Dull scissors make the cutting process
slow and make your hem and wrist tire easily. Trimming scissors should not be used for other
household task such as cutting papers or twine. Remember that trimming scissors last longer if
you occasionally put a drop of oil on the screw assembly.
Scissors handle has the same size, while shears has one handle larger than the other. Sharp shears
make clean cuts and well-define notches. They do not damage fabrics. Dull shears slow the
cutting processes and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Cutting shears should not be used for
other household task such as cutting papers or twine. Scissors and shears last longer if you
occasionally put a drop of oil on the screw assembly.
Trimming scissors - 10 – 15 centimetre 4 – 5 inches long are convenient to use at the machine
for they clip threads to hold in the ease of the seam close to the presser foot or to snip slashes.

Figure 2.1: Scissor


Light trimmers are ideal for repairs, alterations, trimming seams small cutting job

2.3. Reversing and hanging Garments


It is a simple garment packing method where the garments are secured in a poly bag with a
hanger after pressing. Here polybag is the only material used. This type of packing can be used
for all types of garments especially for blazers, coats, pants, etc.

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The merits and demerits of a hanger pack are:
Because of its simplicity it reduces the cost of packing and materials.
All the components/panels of the garments could be seen easily without removing the bag.
The time for packing and unpacking is less.
Material handling is not easy.

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Self-check-2 Written test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below


1. What is the effect of loose threads on the cloth?
2. How to identify loose threads from garment?
3. Write advantage and disadvantage of hanger pack
4. What is trimming scissor?
5. Write types of scissor depend up on size.
II. Say true or false

1. Light trimmers are ideal for repairs, alterations, trimming seams small cutting job.

2. Product inspection of garments is a highly specialized area within the realm of quality
control.

3. Quality control inspectors and other industry professionals use these standards to ensure
garments conform to importer specifications.

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Operation Sheet 2 Trimming excess threads

Purpose:

Trimmed excess thread in finished garment means neat, orderly and well-constructed garment.

Conditions/ Situations:

Hang garments of the same kind. Provide spaces in between hanged garments to preserve its
professional look.

Reverse and hang finished garment in an airy place.

Use cloth hangers in hanging.

Don’t hang garments under the sun. Exposure to sunlight will fade the garment easily.

Press garment before hanging.

Avoid over-crowding in hanging to avoid wrinkles on the different parts.

Materials, Tools and Equipment

 Trimming tools

 Hanger

 Procedures

 Finished Blouse

Step1. Invert the garment.

Step2. Inspect hanging threads on the different parts.

Step3. Cut excess threads starting from top to bottom.

 Neckline, facing, collars

 Shoulder seams and paddings

 Armhole seams and seam finished

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 Sleeve hems

 Front darts/back darts

 Blouse bottom hems

Step4. Invert blouse right out and Trim excess thread on

 Plackets

 Button attachment

 Other trimmings/accent

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Lap Test-2
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________
Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within -35 min.
Task1. Trimming excess threads from long pants

Task 2. Trimming excess threads from long Skirt

Materials, Tools and Equipment


 Trimming tools
 Hanger
Quality control:

 Neatness
 High attractiveness

Safety Precaution

-Keep your hands, fingers & feet always Clean& dry

-Avoid excessive oil on your hair

-Protect your hand from seizer, needle

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Unit Three: Press finished garments

This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 preparing fabric and pressing tools
 setting up, cleaning and checking Pressing machines
 Identifying faults, spots and marks
 Applying Heat/Pressure
 Sequencing press
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Fabric and pressing tools are prepared according to standard operating procedures
 Pressing machines are setup, cleaned and checked in accordance with company’s
procedures
 Faults, spots and marks are identified and appropriate actions are taken in accordance with
standard procedures
 Heat/Pressure is applied in accordance with product requirements, fabric specifications
and standard procedures
 Pressing is sequenced in accordance with work specifications and standard procedures

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3.1. Preparing fabric and pressing tools
Pressing is important for it shapes and set stitched lines. It is done on the seam and darts to lay
flat the point pieces.
Pressing involves applying heat, moisture, and pressure to the fabric while it is the desired shape.
The iron is raised and lowered, rather than pushed along the fabric. It is not necessary to apply
pressure by pressing down the iron. In fact, holding the iron up slightly to lighten the pressure of
the iron is better for many tailoring fabrics.
Before beginning to press, be sure that iron is clean. Care should be taken when pressing silk,
wool, and rayon. Iron is not be too hot for wool and silk will be yellowed and scorched at a
comparatively high temperature. A hot iron will melt rayon fibres. Press wool and silk on the
wrong side. Pressing on the right side produces an undesirable shine. Cotton and linen may be
pressed on either side. Vegetables fibres stand a hotter iron than those of animal origin. They are
easier to press when slightly damp.
3.1.1 Pressing Tools and Equipment and Their Uses
1. An electric iron is used in straightening wrinkle on finished garment for a neat appearance.

Figure 3.1.Ironing

2. An ironing board is padded, smooth and adjustable in height. The cover should be kept clean
and smooth for ready use.

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Figure 3.2. Ironing table

3. Ironing board sheet cover should be made of cotton or linen with light colours and it is used in
covering the ironing board.

Figure.3.3.Automatic ironing machine and finishing process


4. Bowls and sponges are used to dampen fabrics for easy ironing.

Figure 3.4: Damp


5. Press cloth is used to prevent iron shine and is always used when applying fusible interfacing.
Tips in Using an Iron
1. Do not let the iron cord drag over your work.
2. To avoid scorching the iron board cover, tilt the iron back on its heel when not in use.
3. If starch or sizing is stuck to the iron, let it cool, and then scour it with soap and non-
scratching scouring powder or baking soda.

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4. Turn off the iron when it is not in use.
5. It is safe to use distilled water on steam iron.

3.2. Setting up, cleaning and checking Pressing machines

3.2.1. General Pressing Techniques


Regulate the iron temperature as directed on the permanent care label, or on the dial setting for
the fabric. If you are unsure about the fibre content, begin by testing it with low temperature
setting.
If you are working on the thin fabrics or doing slow work, as in shrinking or pressing gathers,
keep the iron temperature slightly lower than for heavier fabrics.
Line and cotton require considerable moisture or eliminating wrinkle and should be pressed until
dry for smooth finish.
Wool requires moisture in pressing to prevent damage to the fibres – dry heat maker them brittle.
Thick materials need more pressure.
Thermoplastic, man-made-fibres are heat sensitive for they tend to melt and glaze. These fabrics
often press better dry.
Use the tips or edge of the iron on seams, hold the iron above the fabric and apply it light by
easily damaged texture.
Press with grain.
Avoid pressing over basting or pins.
Press embroidery, brand buttons, and such rough textures from the wrong side over the soft pad.
Press collars, lapels, cuff, belts, and pocket first on the wrong side. Then finish them on the right
side very lightly over a press cloth.
Avoid lengthwise creases in sleeves or lapels.
Remove any stains or soil before pressing, as heat would probably set the stain.
3.3. Identifying faults, spots and marks
Very important detail to include is a list of known quality defects for the product and how to
classify them, typically as “critical”, “major” or “minor”. Some industry standards exist for
classifying defects. But ultimately, no one knows your market and your customers better than
you. Maybe you import high-end formalwear, and there are certain defects your customers won’t

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accept. Likewise, you may be importing less expensive denim jeans for customers who are more
tolerant of the same defects.
Without a QC checklist that clearly outlines how different garment defects should be reported,
your inspectors are left guessing and you receive less reliable reporting.
3.3.1. Critical defects for garments
A critical defect is one that presents a safety hazard to the user, might cause property damage or
otherwise harms the end user of the product. A single critical defect found in a single garment
typically results in the importer’s rejection of the entire order. Major reasons for such swift
dismissal of an order containing a critical defect are that it:

Figure 3.5: critical defects for garments

Puts consumers at risk of bodily harm


Threatens the reputation of distributors throughout the supply chain, and
Exposes the brand to liability and unnecessary costs in the event of a product recall
One example of a critical garment defect is finding a needle or other sharp object included in the
packaging of the finished goods. This isn’t a defect unique to garments. But due to the cutting
and sewing processes involved in manufacturing softlines products, you’re more likely find it in
these product types.
Another example of a critical defect is finding blood or mold on a garment. It might seem
unlikely that you’d find blood on a garment. But just as a sharp object might find its way into
packaging, a worker might accidentally cut himself during work. In this way, blood may end up
on the product.
Garment orders are more likely to fail inspection due to mold, another critical defect that’s
relatively common. A large portion of international garment production takes place in countries
like Indonesia, Vietnam and others in Southeast Asia. Humid climates typical of that region

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make the garments there more vulnerable to mold during packaging and storage. Mold can spoil
an entire order of garments if the factory doesn’t take action to prevent it.
3.3.2 Major defects for garments
Major defects are those which don’t pose a threat to the safety of the user, but don’t meet the
importer’s specifications. These defects typically lower the value or usability of the product, hurt
salability and can lead to customer returns. Depending on the type and quantity found, major
defects may prompt the importer to refuse an order, asking the supplier to hold it until they’ve
addressed the quality issues found during inspection.

Figure 3.6 : Major defects for garments


Factory workers may be able to reasonably repair or rework the defective garments. Other times,
the factory cannot easily remedy major defects, and the importer may ask their supplier to cover
the loss or manufacture replacement pieces. Some brands may also accept imperfect garments
and offer discounts through special distribution channels, such as factory outlet stores and other
retailers.
An example of major defects you may find in garments is incorrect colors or designs on the
product. These are sometimes acceptable when the garments still have proper dimensions. While
using the wrong colors or designs is not desirable, the clothes can usually be sold if they’re still
proportionate and match standard size categories (e.g. S, M, L and XL).
Issues with sizing out of tolerances or incorrect stitching are often considered major defects that
would result in the importer rejecting an order of garments. If the clothes don’t fit correctly or
tear or fall apart easily, these products are likely to be returned by customers and tarnish the
image of the brand on the label.
3.3.3 Minor defects for garments

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Minor defects found in relatively small quantities typically don’t affect the salability of a product
and aren’t normally identified by the customer. But they’re still issues outside of the standard the
importer and supplier have agreed upon.

Figure .3.2.1 Minor defects for garments


Minor garment defects can take many forms and include issues such as:
Misprinting of “Made in Chins” instead of “Made in China” on a shipping carton
Untrimmed threads, missing stitches or uneven stitching on a garment
Minor variation in shading between garment pieces
Variation of care label quality or content
Minor defects also include dirt and other materials on the surface of a garment that can be easily
washed off. Such defects found in isolation are typically accepted by the importer.
3.4. Applying Heat/Pressure
Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure to shape, mold, or crease fabrics,
garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms. Pressing may be done: During assembly to
facilitate other operations and improve quality. Final finishing process The purpose of pressing
is to make the fabric smooth or to give it a form, such as turn up or hem.
Heat is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibers, stabilize and set the desired shape.
Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers, yarns, and fabrics used in a particular style.
Sources of heat include heated surfaces and steam. Steam (Moisture):It is the fastest means of
transferring heat into the fabrics . Steam is created by heating water in a pressure/boiler. The
higher the pressure, the hotter and drier the steam. Different fabrics require different amount of
moisture and heat, excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color bleeding and must be used
under controlled conditions.

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Pressure: It is applied to alter shape and increase the permanency of the moulding or creasing.
Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces, flatten textures and create permanent garment
and/or fabric damage. Vacuum: After application of heat and moisture, it is the vacuum which
sucks ambient air through the garment as it lies on the buck or pressing table. This rapidly dries
out residual moisture from the garment and ensures that the set imparted by pressing is retained.
Suction also ensures garments are in place before pressing and it does not shift.
3.4.1 Categories or types of garment pressing:
The garments are different types, especially, different in design and garments materials. The
pressing of garments are five categorized, designs and materials are given below:
1. No pressing:
Some garments are available; these are not need to pressing. Such as, underwear, briefs,
swimwear. These types’ garments are made by knitted fabric.
2. Minimum pressing:
Some garments are available; these are not needed finishing done by applying heat but no need
pressing. Such as Night gowns knitted T-Shirt, Leisure wear and so on. These types of garments
are pressing by steaming and by flowing dry air to the garments and called minimum pressing.
3. Under pressing:
To do help for sewing easily and beautifully, it must need to give minimum pressing to some
parts of garments before sewing is called under pressing. Specially, under pressing is done to
most of the garments industries for making coat, jacket, and trouser and so on. Sometimes, there
is needed of unpicking and again under pressing is done before sewing.
4. Final pressing:
These types’ garments are applying heat and pressing to the garments. This is done after making
of garments. This is generally done in jacket, trouser, skirt and so on. Special type of pressing
machine is used for final pressing.
5. Permanent pressing:
Permanent pressing is a special type of pressing, when it is given to retain the shape of garments
or special conditions. Such as, dart and pleat, which cannot be displace or drawn-off after
washing of garments again and again. This type of pressing is done by applying high temperature
and steam, sometimes, there is needed for pressing.
3.5. Sequencing press

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Garments are pressed to remove any creases, and present the garment to the customer in
attractive condition suitable for sale. Garment presentation to the consumer is a vital step in the
finishing of a product. The opinion of the customer is an integral step in brand recognition.
Poorly presented product will have a detrimental effect on the brand’s quality and therefore
product salability. A badly creased garment will lower its retail value and thus the
manufacturer’s sale margin. Pressing therefore is an important step in the production process.
Pressing should accomplish the following:
Removal of all manufacturing creases and wrinkles
Clarity of pleats if there are pleats present (such as in skirts and trousers)
Uniformity of collars and cuffs if present
Stabilizing the garment, particularly in the case of wool knitwear to retain the desired shape
Relaxation of any stresses induced during garment manufacture.
Classification of pressing:
The basic processes that are involved in pressing can be divided into two groups:
Under pressing It is the pressing operation performed on garment components as they are made
up.
Top pressing/Final pressing – This refers to the finishing operation, which a garment undergoes
after being completely assembled.
Both groups involve a huge number of individual processes, their extent determined by the cloth,
quality and design of the garment.

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Self-check-3

Written Test
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer sheet provided in the next
page:
1. List and explain types of defect or faults.

2. What is the difference between major defect and critical defect?

II. Choose best answer

1. _____________done after making of garments.

A. Final pressing

B. No pressing:

C. Minimum pressing

D. Permanent pressing

2. ___________is a special type of pressing, when it is given to retain the shape of garments
or special conditions.

A. Permanent pressing

B. Sequence pressing

C. Under pressing

D. All

II. Say true or false

1. Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure to shape, mold, or crease
fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms.

2. Heat is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibers, stabilize and set the
desired shape.

3. Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers, yarns, and fabrics used in a
particular style.

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Operation sheet-3 Sequencing press

Purpose:
Correct pressing is essential for the shaping and molding of a garment. It gives a professional
appearance to the finished garment.Pressing can be added to a garment’s attractiveness
Conditions/ Situations:
Before beginning to press, be sure that iron and iron board cover is clean.
Materials, Tools and Equipment:
Qty Unit Description

1 Lot Finished garment

1 Unit Pressing equipment- flat iron or steam


press with ironing board

1 Piece Press cloth or water sprayer

Procedure:
Step1. Set temperature according to type of fabric.
Step2. Press ruffles and gathers before the other parts.
Step3. Press interior parts, such as pocket facings, seams, linings, and shoulder pads.
Step4. Press dangling parts, such as sleeves and sashes.
Step5. Press yoke and shoulder seams before the lower blouse.
Step6. Press the top parts of long garment before the lower part, blouse before skirt, skirt top
before lower part of the skirt.
Step7.Collar is usually the last because its position next to the face is so important.
Step8. Hang the garment on a well-padded hanger to dry completely, without crowding.
Step9. Turn off the iron when it is not in use.

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Safety Precautions:
1. Do not let the iron cord drag over your work.
2. To avoid scorching the iron board cover, tilt the iron back on its heel when not in use.
Quality Criteria:
The garment is free of wrinkles.
The original texture has been preserved.
The original shape of the garment has been maintained.
No outline on the inside details shows on the outside.
Inside long seams have been pressed open if they were pressed open originally.

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Lap Test-3
Practical assessment

Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________

Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within -1-- hour.

Task 1. Pressing finished garments

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Unit Four: Package finished garment

This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:

 Packing finished garments.

 Labelling garment packages.

 Cleaning workstation.

This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

 Finished garments are packed in accordance with packaging standards/procedures

 Garment packages are labeled following standard procedure

 Work station is cleaned after work completion

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4.1. Packing finished garments.
Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for the purpose of
protection of goods and their convenient handling.
Packaging is an important part of the product, which has to receive a lot of attention to the
people. It is concerned with designing & producing of appropriate packages for a product.
Packaging also refers to the process of design, evaluation, and production of packages.
Packaging can be described as a coordinated system of preparing goods for transport,
warehousing, logistics, sale, and end.
After final inspection & garments folding, the garments are poly-packed dozen-wise, color wise,
size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with important
information in printed form which is seen from outside the carton easily. Specially, it is needed
to ensure the placement of sticker in proper place.
4.1.1 Apparel Packaging Sequence
After folding garments are packed in polyethylene packets
Generally polyethylene packets are of different sizes
During packing, the position of sticker and other label should be confirmed
After polyethylene packing, garments are kept in the sorting rack according size and color
Then garments placed in inner box from the sorting rack according to size and color
Packing in inner box according to work order is called is called ‘assortment’
The packing that is done by the fixed no. of inner box in the cartoon is called cartooning or
packing
The carton is sealed with the scotch tape
Carton bears some information on it g. carton box no. carton box size, shipping mark, destination
etc.
Different types of packaging are there for different types of garments. Following is the most used
packing types
 Stand up pack: Shirt (90° angle)
 Flat pack: Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser
 Hanger pack: Blazer, Coats, Pants
 Semi stand up pack: Shirt
 Half fold pack: Pant

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Packaging has two major functions:
 Distribution
 Merchandising
The main purpose of distribution packaging is packaging the garment in a way that it allows the
garment manufacturers to transport the garment at a minimum cost and in the shortest time to the
retailer or purchaser, without deteriorating the quality of the product. The merchandising
function deals with showcasing the garment product in a way that it stimulates consumer desire
for purchasing the particular product.

Flow chart of Garment Packaging:


Received garments from the finished section

Hang tagging

Folding with inserting back board, tissue

Poly Bagging

Cartooning

Applied adhesive tape on the pack

Bar-coding

Packing complete

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4.2. Labelling garment packages.
Label
The following information should be included in the label of finished garments.
 Brand name or trade mark
 Country origin
 Physical and chemical composition
 Care Label Symbols
 Price Tag

A price tag is a devise attached to a commodity which states a price.


Table 2. Price tag label
A price tag should be visible, clearly written, no alteration or erasures of any sort.

Cellophane/ Polybag fitted to the size of garment

Appearance of packing cellophane/polybag self-sealing

clean Packing Tape

free from wrinkles adhesive

with flap Marking Pen

transparent Marking pen should be black, permanent,


and does not blot.
clean

A garment label is a communicator between the buyer and product. A garment label contains
various types of information of that garments, such as buyer name, country of origin, types of
fabric, types of yarn, fabric composition, garments size, special instruction about care etc.
Labels are an important part of the clothing industry and consumer laws take them very
seriously.

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4.3. Cleaning workstation after.
After packing of garment cloths we have to clean the working area for nest job.
A clean workplace can help to achieve better productivity and protects worker's health and
safety. Factories should establish systems to make sure that waste is continuously cleared up and
that the workplace is kept safe, healthy and hygienic at all times.
Workstation cleaning covers an abundance of areas – after all, and ‘office’ can come in many
shapes and sizes. Specifically manufactures a comprehensive range of products for the safe and
efficient cleaning of all office equipment. A regular cleaning regime can guard against
breakdowns and ensure that equipment.

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Self-Check -4 Written Test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer sheet provided in the next
page:

1. Write and explain categories of sorting cloths.

2. What is the purpose of label tags?

3. Write the advantage of cleaning our working area.

4. Write the meaning of packaging?

5. What is the function of packaging for garment finishing operation?

6. Write the Flowchart of Garment Packaging.

II. Say true or false

1. Clean workplace can help to achieve better productivity and protects worker's health and
safety.

2. Packaging is an important part of the product, which has to receive a lot of attention to
the people.

3. Factories should establish systems to make sure that waste is continuously cleared up and
that the workplace is kept safe, healthy and hygienic at all times.

III.Chose the best answers

1. The following information should be included in the label of finished garments.

A. Brand name or trade mark

B. Country origin

C. Physical and chemical composition

D. Care Label Symbols

E. Price Tag

F. All

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Operation sheet-4
Package finished garment

Purpose:
Product packaging has assumed a great importance in modern marketing. Packaging is not only
an important means of protecting the content, but also an powerful means of pre-selling the
consumer and assisting in-store selection
Conditions/ Situations :
Before packing, make sure garment is folded according to customer or job specification.
Materials, Tools and Equipment:
Qty Unit Description

1 Lot Finished garment

1 Lot Packaging materials and accessories

Procedures :
1. Sorting of garments according to:

Style

Example: Blouses with sleeve and with sports collar should be together.

Color

Example: Blouses of the same style and same color must be together.

Size

Example: XXL - Extra extra large

XL – Extra Large

L – Large

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M – Medium

S – Small

XS – Extra small

Putting labels, price tags and other accessories

Pack finished garment in cellophane/polybag.

Seal the packed garment.

Quality Criteria:

Labels and tags are clear and visible.

Polybag use is clear, clean, free from wrinkles and appropriate for the size of the garment

Packed garment is according to specifications, properly sealed and free from unnecessary folds.

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Lap Test-4 Written Test

Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________


Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within --- hour.
Task 1. Packaging finished garment
Materials, Tools and Equipment:
Qty Unit Description
1 Lot Finished garment
1 Lot Packaging materials and accessories

Quality Criteria:
Labels and tags are clear and visible.
Polybag use is clear, clean, free from wrinkles and appropriate for the size of the garment
Packed garment is according to specifications, properly sealed and free from unnecessary folds.
Task 2. Pressing finished garments
Materials, Tools and Equipment:
Qty Unit Description
1 Lot Finished garment
1 Unit Pressing equipment- flat iron or steam
press with ironing board
1 Piece Press cloth or water sprayer
Safety Precautions:
1. Do not let the iron cord drag over your work.
2. To avoid scorching the iron board cover, tilt the iron back on its heel when not in use.
Quality Criteria:
1. The garment is free of wrinkles.
2. The original texture has been preserved.
3. The original shape of the garment has been maintained.

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4. No outline on the inside details shows on the outside.
5. Inside long seams have been pressed open if they were pressed open originally.

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Reference
1. http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/01/methods-equipments-garment-pressing.html

2. http://garmentstech.com/inspection-defect-checklist-for-garment-workmanship-and-
appearance/garment-workmanship-and-appearance/

3. http://www.sdfltd.com/critical-defects-for-a-garment.html

4. https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/how-to-classify-defects-for-garment-inspection

5. Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, and D. Gopalakrishnan

6. http://www.delairindia.com/application_detail.php?AppID

7. http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/01/methods-equipments-garment-pressing.html

8. http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/01/methods-equipments-garment-pressing.html

9. http://garmentstech.com/inspection-defect-checklist-for-garment-workmanship-and-
appearance/garment-workmanship-and-appearance/

10. http://www.sdfltd.com/critical-defects-for-a-garment.html

11. https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/how-to-classify-defects-for-garment-inspection

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Participants of this Module (training material) preparation

No Name Qualificati Field of Study Organization/ Mobile E-mail


on (Level) Institution number
1 Yosef AbebeGetachew B- level Fashion design and Mary Help College 0923684937 [email protected]
Textile Engineering
2 EndreyasMiftah Ahimed B-level Garment Engineering Burayu Polytechnic 0912636386 miftahendrias2005@gmail
College .com
3 MuluembetAdmassuAbebe A-level Garment Technology HawasaPolytechnic 0985131178 Muluembetadmassu06@g
College mail.com
4 Biniyam Genet Chekol B-level Garment Technology TililiTvet College 0922440120 [email protected]
m
5 AbdusemedAdem A-level Fashion design and Diredewa Polytechnic 0910075389 Biniyamgetnet933@gmail.
Garment Technology Collage com

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