Crochet Pattern Mrand Mrs Bunny Krea Deluxe

MR & MRS BUNNY
DESIGN BY KREA DELUXE
1
Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020
Mr and Mrs Bunny page 2
Mr and Mrs Bunny ABBREVIATIONS
#MrandMrsBunny #crochetnordiceasterdecorations mr = magic ring
#kreadeluxe st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
MATERIALS
tog = together
Organic Cotton from Krea Deluxe: rnd = round
Bunny: approx. 60 g per bunny (CL no. 46) fch = foundation chain
Cotton jacket: approx. 30 g (CL no. 01)
ch-row = chain row
Scraps for eyes and nose (CL no. 30)
ch-sp = chain space
Organic Wool 1 from Krea Deluxe: fl = front loop
Dress: approx. 35 g (CL no. 05) and 5 g (CL no. 01) tch = turning chain
Wool jacket: approx. 40 g (CL no. 01)
CL = color
Fiber fill: approx. 35 g

2 small buttons for the jacket, approx. 12 mm diameter
1 small button for the dress, approx. 8 mm diameter
TOOLS SUPPORT
You will find video tutorials for the
Suggested hook no. 2.75 and 4.0
techniques applied by clicking the
Pointless needle for assembly
links below
Scissors
TIP: Remember to be online:
Magic ring
Chain stitch
Slip stitch
MEASUREMENTS Single crochet
Mr Bunny is approx. 35 cm tall from the tip of the ears to the bottom Work on both sides of a fch
of the heel. Work around a ch-sp
Mrs Bunny is approx. 30 cm tall from the top of the head to the bot- Work on a spiral
tom of the heel. Work back and forth in rows
Decrease-approach 1
Decrease-approach 2
TENSION
Decrease multiple stitches at once
Working on a spiral with Organic Cotton and Organic Wool 1 from Increase
Krea Deluxe: 30 st x 32 rnd / 10 x 10 cm / 2.75 mm Work into fl only
Work into bl only
Working on a spiral with Organic Wool 1 from Krea Deluxe:
24 st x 29 rnd / 10 x 10 cm / 4.0 mm Close the last round
Color change
Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2019 THIS PATTERN IS STRICTLY FOR YOUR PERSONAL USE. IT CAN NOT BE COPIED/SOLD OR DIS-
TRIBUTED. SELLING ITEMS MADE FROM THIS PATTERN IS PROHIBITED. WWW.KREADELUXE.DK 4
Pattern
INFORMATION PATTERN FOR THE BUNNY

Use this cute couple as teddy bears and East-
er decorations. The visit from the Easter bun-
ny is a big holiday tradition during Easter. He BODY
leaves Easter eggs and other sweets around
Crochet the body from the bottom up. Work
the house or in the garden and the big egg
on a spiral and shift the increases and decreas-
hunt can begin. It is a wonderful tradition and
es to make the project rounder. Use a marker
we are pretty sure that especially the children
thread to mark the beginning of the round.
enjoy it because when the Easter bunny
shows up it is also very likely they will find
Easter eggs around. Rnd 1: 6 sc into a mr = 6 st
The couple in the photos are worked in organ- Rnd 2: (2 sc into next st) x 6 = 12 st
ic cotton CL no. 46 and the jacket in CL no. 01.
Rnd 3: (2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st) x 6
You can work Mr Bunny’s jacket in either Or- = 18 st
ganic Wool 1 or Organic cotton CL no. 01.
Rnd 4: (2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2 st) x 6
Mrs Bunny’s dress is made in Organic Wool 1
= 24 st
CL no. 01 and no. 05.
Rnd 5: (1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st) x 6
= 30 st
IMPORTANT: If you have bought a kit it is im-
portant to keep the tension. If your tension is Rnd 6: 1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st, (1 sc
looser than the suggested, you will not have into next 4 st, 2 sc into next st) x 5, 1 sc into
enough yarn for all the projects in the kit. next 2 st = 36 st

TIP: You can make the Easter bunny in a larger
= 42 st
version using double strands on hook 4.0. The
Easter bunny is also beautiful in wool. Rnd 8: 1 sc into next 4 st, 2 sc into next st,
(1 sc into next 6 st, 2 sc into next st) x 5, 1 sc
into next 2 st = 48 st
Rnd 9-13: 1 sc into every st around = 48 st

WORKFLOW
Rnd 14: (1 sc into next 7 st, 2 sc into next st)
The bunny consists of 8 parts: 2 arms, 2 legs,
x 6 = 54 st
2 ears, 1 body, 1 head. Work all the parts sep-
arately and assemble the parts when you are Rnd 15-18: 1 sc into every st around = 54 st
done. The bunny wears a handsome jacket
and you will find the pattern for this on page Rnd 19: (1 sc into next 7 st, sc2tog) x 6 = 48 st
14.
It is described how to make the parts in the

beginning of each section.

Rnd 20-21: 1 sc into every st around = 48 st Rnd 49: (1 sc into next 5 st, sc2tog) x 3 = 18 st
Rnd 22: (1 sc into next 14 st, sc2tog) x 3 Rnd 50-52: 1 sc into every st around = 18 st
= 45 st
Add fiber fill.
Rnd 25: (1 sc into next 13 st, sc2tog) x 3 Cut the yarn end long enough to sew the head
= 42 st onto the body.
Rnd 28: (1 sc into next 12 st, sc2tog) x 3

= 39 st
ARMS
Rnd 29-30: 1 sc into every st around = 39 st Crochet the arms from the bottom up. Work
Rnd 31: (1 sc into next 11 st, sc2tog) x 3 on a spiral and place the decreases in the sides
= 36 st and on the back of the arm to make them less
visible.
Work the first round on both sides of a founda-
Rnd 34: (1 sc into next 10 st, sc2tog) x 3
tion chain.
= 33 st
Use a marker thread to mark the beginning of
the round.
Rnd 37: (1 sc into next 9 st, sc2tog) x 3 = 30 st
Rnd 38-39: 1 sc into every st around = 30 st Ch 4 – last st is a tch.
Rnd 40: (1 sc into next 8 st, sc2tog) x 3 =27 st Rnd 1: 2 sc into 2nd st from the hook, 1 sc into
next st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st, 1 sc
Rnd 41-42: 1 sc into every st around = 27 st into last st (work this st into the same st as the
Rnd 43: (1 sc into next 7 st, sc2tog) x 3 = 24 st first 2 st in the rnd) = 8 st
Rnd 44-45: 1 sc into every st around = 24 st Rnd 2: (3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st) x 2
= 12 st
Add fiber fill. Rnd 3: 1 sc into next st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc
into next 5 st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 4
st = 16 st
Rnd 7: 1 sc into next 4 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next
6 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st = 14 st

Rnd 12: 1 sc into next 2 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into FEET AND LEGS
next 10 st = 13 st
Crochet the first round of the foot on both
Rnd 13-16: 1 sc into every st around = 13 st sides of a foundation chain. Work the foot
from the tip of the toes to the beginning of the
Rnd 17: 1 sc into next 3 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into
heel. Split the round into two parts for the heel
next 8 st = 12 st
and the leg.
Rnd 18-21: 1 sc into every st around = 12 st Continue up around the ankle and the leg. In
the first round of the leg work into the front
loop of the stitches on the foot. This forces the
next 6 st = 11 st
foot upwards when you add fiber fill. Work on
Rnd 23-26: 1 sc into every st around = 11 st a spiral throughout the project. Use a marker
thread to mark the beginning of the round.
next 4 st = 10 st
Rnd 28-31: 1 sc into next st around = 10 st Foot
Rnd 32: 1 sc into next 6 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into Chain 4 – last st is a tch.
next 2 st = 9 st
Rnd 1: 2 sc into 2nd st from the hook, 1 sc into
Rnd 33-37: 1 sc into every st around = 9 st next st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st, 1 sc
into last st (work this st into the same st as the
Add a little fiber fill to the arm to fill it until
first 2 st in the rnd) = 8 st
approx. round 14 and the arm is still flat.
Rnd 2: (3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st) x 2
Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
= 12 st
Turn the front of the arm towards you, flatten Rnd 3: 1 sc into next st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc
the opening of the arm and crochet the open- into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2
ing together like this: st, 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into
next st, 1 sc into next st = 18 st
Attach the yarn with a loop stitch in the fl and
work 1 sc into the fl of the row facing you and Rnd 4: 1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc
the bl of the row turning away from you, until into next 8 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next
the end of the row, 4-5 sc in all. 6 st = 20 st

Cut off the yarn long enough to use it to
attach the arm. Rnd 8: 1 sc into next 4 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next
8 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 4 st = 18 st
Crochet two arms according to the above
instructions. Rnd 9: 1 sc into every st around = 18 st

next 7 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 3 st = 16 st
Rnd 11: 1 sc into every st around = 16 st
Rnd 12: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 14 st = 15 st
Leave the marker thread in your project. Cut

the yarn and weave in the end.
Place a new marker thread in the 5th st to the

right of the original marker thread (not
Place a new thread 5 st to the left of the marker
counting the stitch with the marker thread).
thread (where you see the needle above).
Remove the original marker thread.
Divide for ankle and heel:
Split the foot into two parts for ankle and heel
like this:
Attach the yarn to the rnd with a loop stitch

and ch 8.
Continue to rnd 1 of the leg.
Chains for dividing ankle and heel.

Leg
Rnd 1: Skip 8 st, 1 sc into the 9th st to the left
of the new marker thread on the foot (not
counting the stitch with the marker thread). Rnd 5 of the leg
This sc is the first st in the round and the be-

ginning of the following round of the leg.
Place a marker thread here to see where the
round begins. Avoid removing the marker
thread on the foot as it marks the beginning Opening for the heel
of the heel, when you get to this.
The first 5 rnd of the leg are done. Work the heel
into the opening when the leg is done.

1 sc into the fl of the next 5 st from the foot, Rnd 4: (sc2tog in fl) x 7 = 7 st
1 sc into the same st as the ch, 1 sc into the
Rnd 5: sc2tog in fl. Leave the remaining st in
8 chain stitches (make sure that you expose
the rnd = 6 st
one loop to work the heel into) = 15 st

End the round by pulling the opening together
Rnd 4: 1 sc into next 7 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into like this:
next 6 st = 14 st Cut off the yarn long enough to use it to sew
the opening together. Thread a needle with
the yarn end and put it through the front loop
Rnd 17: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 12 st = 13 st from the center outwards. Repeat into all the
stitches in the round. After the last stitch pull
the yarn end like a drawstring and close the
Rnd 30: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 11 st = 12 st opening.
Rnd 31-33: 1 sc into every st around. Make Weave in the end carefully and cut off the
the last st a sl st to even out the height of the yarn.
rnd = 12 st Make two legs according to the instructions
above.
Cut off the yarn long enough to use it for sew-

ing the leg onto the body.
HEAD
Crochet the head on a spiral from the top

down. Use a marker thread to mark the begin-
Heel ning of each round.
Attach the yarn with a loop stitch into the Rnd 1: 8 sc into a mr = 8 st
loop to the left of the marker thread (that you
Rnd 2: (2 sc into next st) x 8 = 16 st
left on the foot - where you began the ch row
for dividing the leg and heel). Rnd 3: (2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st) x 8
= 24 st
Rnd 1: 1 sc into the same st as the loop stitch,
Rnd 4: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st, 2 sc
1 sc into next 7 st of the foot, 1 sc into the 8
into next st, 1 sc into next 6 st, (2 sc into next
st of the ch row = 16 st
st, 1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 2, 1 sc
Rnd 2: 1 sc into every st around = 16 st into next 6 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next
st, 2 sc into next st = 32 st
Rnd 3: (sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 st) x 2 = 14 st
Rnd 5: 1 sc into next 15 st, (2 sc into next st)
Add fiber fill to the leg and foot. Add plenty to x 2, 1 sc into next 14 st, 2 sc into next st = 35 st
the foot, but only enough to the leg to keep
Rnd 6: 1 sc into next 16 st, 2 sc into next st,
the shape.
1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next
16 st = 37 st

Rnd 7: 1 sc into next 16 st, 2 sc into next st, Cut off the yarn long enough to sew the head
1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into together.
next 16 st = 39 st Add fiberfill to the head and sew the last
stitches together like this:
1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into Turn the bottom of the head upwards with the
next 17 st = 41 st long side of the opening facing you.
Rnd 9: 1 sc into next 18 st, 2 sc into next st, Work into the front loop of the stitches closer
1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into to you and the back loop of the stitches that
next 18 st = 43 st are away from you.
Rnd 10: 1 sc into next 7 st, (2 sc into next st) Go through the loops in the same direction
x 2, 1 sc into next 25 st, (2 sc into next st) x 2, each time to place the stitches over the open-
1 sc into next 7 st = 47 st ing and in the same direction.
Rnd 11: 1 sc into next 21 st, 2 sc into next st, Weave in the end carefully.
1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into

next 21 st = 49 st

next 22 st = 51 st
Rnd 13: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 22 st,

(2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st) x 2, 2 sc
into next st, 1 sc into next 22 st, 2 sc into next
st = 56 st
Rnd 20: (sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 22 st,

sc2tog, 1 sc into next 3 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into
next 23 st = 52 st
Rnd 21: 1 sc into next 24 st, (sc3tog) x 2, 1 sc

into next 22 st = 48 st
Rnd 22: sc3tog, 1 sc into next 16 st, (sc3tog)

x 4, 1 sc into next 14 st, sc3tog = 36 st
Rnd 23: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 st, sc2tog, 1 sc

into next 5 st, (sc2tog) x 4, 1 sc into next 3 st,
sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 st, sc2tog = 28 st
Rnd 24: (sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st) x 7 = 21 st

EARS FOR MR BUNNY Cut off the yarn long enough to sew the ear
onto the head.
Crochet the ears on a spiral from the top
down. Use a marker thread to mark the be- Bend the ear to make the corners at the
ginning of each round. bottom meet and sew them together with a
few stitches in the lower two rounds.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into a mr = 6 st
Don’t cut off the end as you will need it later
Rnd 2: (1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2 for attaching the ear to the head.
= 8 st
Make two ears according to the above instruc-
Rnd 3: (1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2 tions.
= 10 st

= 12 st

= 14 st

= 16 st

x 2 = 18 st

x 2 = 20 st

x 2 = 22 st

x 2 = 24 st

EARS FOR MRS BUNNY Cut off the yarn and weave in the end.
Crochet the ears on a spiral from the top Join the top of the ear and close the opening
down. Use a marker thread to mark the be- with 6-7 sc in the same way that you did for
ginning of each round. the arms.
Cut the yarn end long enough to use it to

Rnd 1: 6 sc into a mr = 6 st
attach the ear to the head.
Rnd 2: (1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2 Make two ears according to the above instruc-
= 8 st tions.

= 10 st

= 12 st

= 14 st

= 16 st

= 18 st

x 2 = 20 st

ASSEMBLY
13
ASSEMBLY ARMS
Attach the arms on either side of the body

between rounds 2 and 3 from the head.
HEAD
Sew through the body and up around a post in
Place the body on the bottom of the head
the arm. Sew back and forth a few times to
approx. 2 cm from the back of the head. You
make sure the arms are attached properly.
can use pins to hold the parts in place and
avoid that they shift when you start sewing. Weave in the end carefully.
Sew from the body up through the head ap-

prox. between round 21 and 22, when you
look at the bunny from the side. LEGS
Sew down around a post on the body and Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body
back up through the head. across rounds 5 and 6, while making sure that
Repeat this all the way around while making you turn the legs so the feet are pointing for-
sure not to tighten the neck too hard or sew- ward, when the bunny is sitting down.
ing so far towards the center of the bottom of The distance between the legs corresponds to
the head that it loses its’ shape. two chain spaces on the body.
You can add extra fiber fill as you go if it You can attach the legs with pins to keep them
doesn’t come all the way up to the edge. in place and prevent them from shifting as you
Sew all the way around two times and weave sew. Weave in the end carefully.
in the end carefully.
TIP: You can make a few stitches on the feet to
mark the paws.

EARS MR BUNNY FACIAL FEATURES
Sew the ears onto the head across rounds 2

to 5. If you look at the bunny from the side
Eyes
the ears should be aligned with the arms.
Sew the eyes at a downward angle over
On the side of the ear that turns away from
rounds 11 and 12. Make 2-3 stitches for each
the head, sew through the lowest round of
eye to make them stand out more. If you sew
the ear and down into the head between
between the eyes from one side of the head to
round 5 and 6. On the side of the ear that
the other, you can tighten the yarn a bit when
faces the head, sew through the 2nd lowest
beginning the second eye, thereby making two
round of the ear and down into the head be-
hollows, which will result in a more distinct
tween round 2 and 3. This way the ear will
face shape.
stand straight up and not tilt to the side.
For Mrs Bunny you can add a few stitches as
Sew all the way around the ear twice to
eyelashes for a more feminine expression.
attach it properly. Weave in the end carefully.
Nose
EARS MRS BUNNY Sew the nose onto the front of the head. The
top part of the nose should look like a V. The
Sew the ears onto the head across round 6. If
stitches begin between round 15 and 16 and
you look at the bunny from the side the ears
continue to the groove between round 17 and
should be aligned with the arms.
18. One stitch begins 3 chain spaces further
Sew all the way around the ear twice to along than the other, corresponding to two
attach it properly. chain spaces between them. Both meet in the
same chain space. Start this part of the nose
Also attach the ear with a few stitches 10-12
from this point and sew the lower part of the
rounds down on the back of the ear.
nose three rounds straight down (between
Weave in the end carefully. round 20 and 21). Together the stitches form a
Y on the bunny’s nose.
Sew the stitches twice to make the nose more

significant. If you tighten the stitches a bit it
will flatten the tip of the nose.
Weave in the ends from the eyes and the nose

carefully.

JACKET FOR MR BUNNY
17
PATTERN FOR THE JACKET R 11: ch 1 as tch, (1 sc into next 12 st, (sc2tog)
x 2, 1 sc into next 11 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next
Crochet the Easter bunny’s jacket from the 12 st = 50 st
bottom up, back and forth in rows. Divide the
R 12-13: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of
project into 3 parts in round 34 and work each
r = 50 st
part separately until and including round 38.
Join the parts again in round 39 and crochet R 14: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 12 st, sc2tog, (1
the collar. sc into next 10 st, sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 12
st = 47 st
Crochet the hems on the front pieces and the
sleeves. Finally, single crochet all the way R 15-16: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of
around the opening of the front pieces and r = 47 st
the bottom of the jacket.
R 17: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 11 st, sc2tog, 1
Work the first row into the foundation chain sc into next 10 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 9 st,
on the back of the row and not through the sc2tog, 1 sc into next 11 st = 44 st
chain. When you work into the foundation
chain, don’t do a chain stitch as a turning
r = 44 st
chain in the first row. After the first row chain
one as a turning chain in every row as indicat- R 20: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 11 st, sc2tog, (1
ed in the pattern. sc into next 8 st, sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 11
st = 41 st
JACKET IN WOOL R 21-22: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of

r = 41 st
If you crochet the jacket in wool you should
also use hook 2.75 to achieve the same ten- R 23: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 10 st, sc2tog, 1
sion as you would have with the cotton. sc into next 8 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 7 st,
sc2tog, 1 sc into next 10 st = 38 st

r = 38 st
Chain 56 on hook 2.75 mm
R 26: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 9 st, sc2tog, (1
R 1: 1 sc into every ch loop on the back of the
sc into next 7 st, sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 9 st
fch = 56 st
= 35 st
row = 56 st
r = 35 st
R 8: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 12 st, sc2tog, (1
R 29: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 8 st, sc2tog, 1
sc into next 13 st, sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 12
sc into next 7 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 st,
st = 53 st
sc2tog, 1 sc into next 8 st = 32 st
row = 53 st

R 30-31: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of R 34: 1 sl st into the same st as the loop st, 1 sc
r = 32 st into next 9 st, 1 sl st into next st. Turn the pro-
ject and leave the rest of the stitches in r 33
R 32: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 7 st, sc2tog,
= 11 st
(1 sc into next 6 st, sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next
7 st = 29 st R 35: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 34, 1 sl st into
next st, 1 sc into next 7 st, 1 sl st into next st
R 33: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of r
= 9 st
= 29 st
R 36: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 35, 1 sc into
Divide the project into three parts: right front,
next 7 st = 7 st
left front and back.
R 37: ch 1 as tch, 1 sl st into next st, 1 sc into
See photo and diagram on the next page.
next 5 st, 1 sl st into next st = 7 st
Turn the project and begin with the right front
piece. R 38: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 37, 1 sc into
next 5 st = 5 st
Cut off the yarn and weave in the end.

Right front piece (RF)
R 34: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 3 st, 1 sl st into

next st. Turn the project and leave the rest of Left front piece (LF)
the stitches in r 33 = 4 st
The left front piece begins in the 26th st in r
R 35: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 34, 1 sc into 33. Attach the yarn with a loop stitch and work
next 3 st = 3 st like this:
R 36: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into every st to end of r R 34: 1 sl st into the same st as loop st, 1 sc
= 3 st into next 3 st = 4 st
R 37: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 2 st, 1 sl st into R 35: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 3 st, 1 sl st into
next st = 3 st sl st from r 35 = 4 st
R 38: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 37, 1 sl st into R 36: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 35, 1 sc into
next st, 1 sc into next st = 2 st every st to end of r = 3 st
Cut off the yarn and weave in the end. R 37: ch 1 as tch, 1 sl st into next st, 1 sc into
next 2 st = 3 st
R 38: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next st, 1 sl st into

Back (B) next st = 2 st
The back piece begins in the 10th st of r 33. Cut off the yarn and weave in the end leaving
Attach the yarn with a loop st and continue like the slip stitch at a skew on the row.
this:

Diagram for jacket: r 33 -40
LF BACK RF
R 40
R 39
R 38
R 37
Direction
R 36
R 35
R 34
R 33
= R 33-38
= R 39-40
= Chain (Loop stitch at the beginning of the back, left front and r 39)
= Slip stitch
= Single crochet
= 2 single crochet into the same stitch

Connect the front pieces and the back in the Collar
next 2 rows. Begin in the right front piece like
Crochet the collar in the next 3 r.
this:
In r 41 work the middle 17 st through the front
R 39: Attach the yarn in the sl st of r 38 in the loop, so the collar will bend down easily.
right front piece. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sl st), 1 sc
R 41: ch 1 as tch, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into fl of
into next st (not into sl st, but into sc in r 38 of
next 17 st. Work 2 sc into next st through both
front piece), ch 5, 1 sc into every 5 st of the
loops = 21 st
back, ch 5, 1 sc into sc on left front piece, 1 sl
st into sl st on left front piece = 19 st R 42: ch 1 as tch, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into
next 6 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 5 st,
R 40: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 39, 1 sc into 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 6 st, 2 sc into
next st, 1 sc into every 5 ch (Important: hook next st = 25 st
through the chain stitches from the back, re-
R 43: ch 1 as tch, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into
sulting in one loop facing the sleeve hole, and
next 23 st, 2 sc into next st = 27 st
the back of the chain stitches turning back-
wards), 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st, 2 Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
sc into next st, 1 sc into every 5 ch (Important:
Hook through the chain stitches from the
back, resulting in one loop facing towards the
sleeve hole, and the back of the chain stitches
turn backwards), 1 sc into next st = 19 st

HEM ON THE FRONT PIECES R 2: ch 1 as tch, skip 1st st, 1 sc into next 31 st
= 31 st
Work the hem separately. Begin at the
bottom of the jacket on the right front piece R 3: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 30 st, 1 sl st into
and work upwards towards the collar. On the next st = 31 st
left front piece begin at the collar and work
down towards the bottom of the jacket and R 4: ch 1 as tch, ch 1 (counts as a sl st), skip sl
create buttonholes as you go. This way you st from r 3, 1 sc into next 30 st = 31 st
will achieve a matching stitch structure in the
two pieces.
Hem on right front piece
R 1: Attach the yarn with a loop stitch in the

corner of the bottom of the jacket. Work 32
sc along the front piece from the bottom up
to r 37 (skipping approx. 5 st evenly along the
front will prevent bulks) = 32 st

Hem on left front piece R 4: ch 1 as tch, (1 sc into next 8 st, 3 sc around
the ch sp from r 3) xv2, 1 sc into next 8 st, 1 sl
R 1: Attach the yarn with a loop stitch in r 37 st into next st = 31 st
at the top of the jacket. Work 32 sc along the
front piece from r 37 and down towards the Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
bottom of the jacket (skip approx. 5 st evenly
along the front to prevent bulks) = 32 st
Single crochet edge around the jacket
R 2: ch 1 as tch, 1 sc into next 31 st, 1 sl st into
Begin at the top of the left front piece in r 40.
next st = 32 st
Attach the yarn with a loop stitch and work 1
Create buttonholes in the next row like this: sc into every st around the jacket, ending in r
40 on the right front piece. Working a sl st as
R 3: ch 1 as tch, skip sl st from r 2, 1 sc into
first and last st will prevent bulks in the begin-
next 9 st, (ch 3, skip 3 st, 1 sc into next 8 st)
ning and end of the single crochet edge. Work
x 2 = 31 st
2-3 sc into the corners to avoid that the pro-
ject bends.

Sleeves Crochet the fold of the sleeve in the next
rounds. Begin the round on the side of the
Work the sleeves from the right side of the
sleeve that faces the jacket, this way the graft-
project. Crochet the entire sleeve on a spiral.
ing won’t show from the front. Work the first
Work some stitches into the front loop to
round into the back loop (the outer loop of the
make the sleeve bend towards the jacket in-
round when working counter clockwise) to
stead of sticking straight out.
create the fold. Also turn the project and work
counter clockwise in the round to make the
Rnd 1: Hook through the bottom right corner right-side face when the sleeve is folded.
of the sleeve hole and attach the yarn with a
loop stitch in fl of the 1st sc in the r.
1 sc into fl of the same st as the loop st, 1 sc

into the fl of next 4 st, 4 sc along left side of
the sleeve hole, 1 sc into all 5 st of the ch at
the top of the sleeve hole, 4 sc along the right
side of the sleeve hole = 18 st
Rnd 2: 1 sc into fl of next 6 st, 1 sc into next

11 st, 1 sc into fl of next st = 18 st
Rnd 3: 1 sc into fl of next 6 st, 1 sc into next

4 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc
into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st, 1 sc into fl of
next st = 20 st
Rnd 4-5: 1 sc into fl of next 6 st, 1 sc into next

13 st, 1 sc into fl of next st = 20 st
First round of the sleeve

next 10 st = 22 st
Rnd 14-25: 1 sc into next 22 st = 22 st
Rnd 26: 1 sc into next 21 st, 1 sl st into next st

= 22 st
Cut the yarn and weave in the end before Direction

beginning rnd 27 and 28.
Beginning of rnd 27

Rnd 27: Turn the project, the sleeve is now Make two sleeves according to the above in-
towards you and the hook is away from you, structions.
when you begin. Work into the back loop
Attaching the buttons
around.
Sew the buttons onto the hem of the right
Attach the yarn with a loop stitch and work
front piece aligning them with the buttonholes
(1 sc into next 10 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2.
on the left front piece. Avoid sewing them too
Work the first st into the same st as the loop
close towards the front piece as it will pull the
stitch = 24 st
front of the jacket together, when it is
Rnd 28: 1 sc into next 23 st, 1 sl st into next st buttoned up.
= 24 st
You can secure the fold by sewing a few

stitches to keep it in place.

DRESS FOR MRS BUNNY
29
DRESS FOR MRS BUNNY Stripes and dots:
Crochet the dress from the top down using Create the white stripe in rnd 20. Continue by
hook 4.0. Work the sleeves and collar directly Continue by alternating between 5 rnd in CL 1
onto the dress when you are done. and 1 rnd with dots in CL 2, until the dress has
the desired length. For every rnd with dots it is
Crochet the dress back and forth in rows for
indicated in the pattern which stitches have a
the first 19 rows, connect the work to a ring
different color.
and continue on a spiral throughout the rest
of the project. Alternatively you can embroider the dots when
the dress is finished.
The length of the dress is easily adjustable.
Simply work fewer rounds if you want it short-
er or add rounds if you prefer the dress to be
longer. Watch video tutorial:
Work the first row into the back of the foun- Color change
dation chain and not through the chains.
Don’t crochet a turning chain in the first row
when you work into the foundation chain.
TIP: You can embroider on top of the dots if
Weave in all ends on the back of the project.
you want them to stand out more.
The right side are all uneven rows.
TIP: Pay extra attention to your tension when

you work with wool. Wool is stretchy and it is
easy to tighten it too hard when you work. If
PATTERN
this happens the dress will be too small. If
your tension is loose the dress will be too big. Ch 21 on hook 3.5.
R 1: Go to the back of the fch and work 1 sc

into every ch = 21 st
Watch video tutorial:
Work into the back of a fch
Unless otherwise is indicated turn each r with

1 ch as tch throughout the rest of the project.
R 2: 1 sc into every st = 21 st

Divide the project into three parts: front and R 5-6: 1 sc into every st = 7 st
two back pieces. Work each part separately
from r 3. R 7: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 5 st, 2 sc
into next st = 9 st
Work across all stitches in r 8 to graft the
pieces and close the sleeve openings. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
Right back (RB) Left back (LB)
R 3: 2 sc into next st. 1 sc into next 2 st. Leave R 3: Attach the yarn with a loop st into 19th sc
the last 18 st = 4 st in r 2 (4th st to the left of F). 1 sc into same st
as the loop st, 1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st
R 4: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st = 3 st
= 4 st
R 5-6: 1 sc into every st = 3 st
R 4: 1 sc into next 2 st, sc2tog = 3 st
R 7: 1 sc into next 2 st, 2 sc into next st = 4 st
R 7: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2 st = 4 st
FRONT (F) Don’t cut the yarn but continue across all
stitches in r 8.
R 3: Attach the yarn with a loop st into the 7th
sc in r 2 (4th st to the left of RB). 1 sc into R 8: 1 sc into next 4 st, ch, 1 sc into 9 st of F,
same st as the loop st, 1 sc into next 8 st ch 4, 1 sc into next 4 st of RB = 25 st
= 9 st
R 4: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 5 st, sc2tog = 7 st

See photo of r 1-8 on the next page.
Diagram for dress: R 1 -9
LB F RB
R9
R8
R7
R6
Direction
R5
R4
R3
R2
R1
Neck/collar
= Chain and loop stitch at the beginning = single crochet 2 together (decrease)
= Single crochet = 2 single crochet into the same stitch (increase)

In the next r it is important to go through the
ch and not around as you will be using the
front loop of the chain to attach the sleeve.
R 9: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st, 1 sc

into each of the 4 ch, 1 sc into the 9 st on the
F, 1 sc into each of the 4 ch, 1 sc into next 3 st
of the LB, 2 sc into next st = 27 st
R 10: 1 sc into every st = 27 st
R 11: (1 sc into next 6 st, 2 sc into next st) x 3,

1 sc into next 6 st = 30 st
R 12: 1 sc into every st = 30 st Dress to and including r 8
R 13: 1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc

into next 11 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next Rnd 20: 1 sc into the same st as the sl st, 1 sc
10 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st into next 34 st, 1 around a ch-sp = 36 st
= 33 st
Change to CL 2
R 14-15: 1 sc into every st = 33 st Rnd 21: (2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 2 st)
x 12 = 48 st
R 16: 1 sc into next 8 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc
into next 15 st, 2 sc into next, 1 sc into next 8 Rnd 22: 1 sc into next 12 st, 2 sc into next st,
st = 35 st 1 sc into next 23 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into
next 11 st = 50 st
R 17 –18: 1 sc into every st = 35 st
Rnd 23-25: 1 sc into every st = 50 st
R 19: 1 sc into every st, ch 1. Connect the

parts to a ring by working 1 sl st into 1st sc on Work with both colors in the next round to
the RB = 36 st (not counting the sl st) create dots.
Work the dots in CL2. When you are not using

CL2, let it hang on the back side while you are
You can change to hook 4.0 for a looser stitch
working with CL1. To attach CL2, and keep the
structure on the skirt. This will make the dress
st in place, you can work around CL2 for the
drape softer around the body. Make sure not
first st with CL1.
to make the stitch structure so loose that it
creates openings. Be careful not to tighten CL2, when you pick it
up again as this will pull the work together.
Work on a spiral throughout the rest of the
You can avoid this if you let CL2 hang on the
project.
back, as you work the first 4 st with CL1. Work
Use a marker thread to mark the beginning of the next st around CL2. Let CL2 hang when
a round. working the last 4 st. This way you pick up CL2
in the middle and you won’t have a long piece
Change to CL 2 yarn hanging.
See photo on the next page .

Rnd 26: 1 sc into next 5 st with CL1, (1 sc into Rnd 33: (1 sc into next 26 st, 2 sc into next st)
next st with CL2, 1 sc into next 9 st with CL1) x 2 = 56 st
x 4, 1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc into next
4 st with CL1 = 50 st Rnd 34-35: 1 sc into every st around = 56 st

next 17 st = 58 st
Create dots in the next rnd.
Rnd 38: 1 sc into next 8 st with CL1, 1 sc into

next st with CL2, 1 i sc into next 10 st with CL1,
(1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc into next 11 st
with CL1) x 3, 1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc
into next 2 st with CL1 = 58 st
CL2 hangs on the back side, while you work

with CL1. You can work around CL2 when
you crochet the 5th st with CL1.
next 10 st = 60 st
Work the next 5 rnd with CL1. Avoid cutting

CL2, and let it hang on the back of the project. Rnd 40-41: 1 sc into every st around = 60 st
Rnd 27: (2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 24 st) Rnd 42: (1 sc into next 29 st, 2 sc into next st)
x 2 = 52 st x 2 = 62 st
Rnd 28-29: 1 sc into every st = 52 st Rnd 43: 1 sc into every st around = 62 st

1 sc into next 25 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into Create dots in the next rnd.
next 10 st = 54 st
Rnd 44: 1 sc into next 3 st with CL1, (1 sc into
next st with CL2, 1 sc into next 11 st with CL1)
Rnd 31: 1 sc into every st = 54 st
x 2, (1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc into next
12 st with CL1) x 2, 1 sc into next st with CL2,
Create dots in the next rnd. 1 sc into next 8 st with CL1 = 62 st
Rnd 32: 1 sc into next st with CL1, (1 sc into
next st with CL2, 1 sc into next 10 st with CL1) Rnd 45: 1 sc into next 8 st, 2 sc into next st,
x 4, 1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc into next 1 sc into next 30 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into
8 st with CL1 = 54 st next 22 st = 64 st

Rnd 48: 1 sc into next 15 st, 2 sc into next st, Rnd 55-56: 1 sc into every st around = 70 st
next 16 st = 66 st
Crochet the small hem at the bottom of the
Rnd 49: 1 sc into every st around = 66 st dress over the next 2 rounds.
Rnd 57: ch 1, skip 1 st, (1 sc into next st, ch 1,

Create dots in the next rnd. skip 1 st) x 34, 1 sc into last st. Connect the rnd
Rnd 50: 1 sc into next 10 st with CL1, 1 sc into with 1 sl st into first st in rnd = 70 st
next st with CL2, (1 sc into next 13 st with
CL1, 1 sc into next st with CL2, 1 sc into next Rnd 58: Create small points into every ch-sp
12 st with CL1, 1 sc into next st with CL2) x 2, from the previous rnd:
1 sc into next st with CL1 = 66 st (ch 2, 1 hdc into 1st ch, 1 sc tightly around the
next ch-sp) repeat around. Work the last of the
Rnd 51: (1 sc into next 32 st, 2 sc into next st) small points tightly into the same st as the 2 ch
x 2 = 68 st
in the beginning of the rnd.
Rnd 52-53: 1 sc into every st around = 68 st Cut the yarn and weave in the end.

next 24 st = 70 st

Collar and edge on the back
Crochet hems and a pretty little collar along
the back pieces and in the neck opening.
Work an additional ch loop on the right back
piece for buttoning up the dress.
Work the hems for the back pieces separately

before working the collar.
Finally crochet the collar. When you work the

collar separately from the back pieces it pro-
vides the opportunity of using a different col-
or than the dress. You can also make the right
side face when you bend it over the dress.
Single crochet edge on the left back piece.
Work the collar and the hems with hook 4.0.
Single crochet edge on left back piece
Attach the yarn with 1 loop st into the bottom

st on LB. See the photo on the right.
1 sc into same st as the loop st, 15 sc evenly

divided on LB (place the last st in the corner
where LB and neck meet.
Cut the yarn and weave in the end on the

back of the project.
Sewing the 3 bottom stitches together.

Single crochet edge on the right back piece
Attach the yarn with 1 loop st into the top st

of RB. 1 sc into same st as loop st, 1 st into
next st, ch 5, 1 sc into next r, 13 sc evenly
divided on the rest of RB (place the last st into
the corner where RB meets the skirt).
Cut the yarn long enough to use it to sew the

bottom part together.
Sew the three bottom stitches on the back

together. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.

Collar
Turn the dress so the back faces you to cro-

chet on the back of the neckline.
Begin in the first stitch of the right back piece

and attach the yarn with 1 loop st in bl.
R 1: 1 sc into bl of the same st as loop st, 1 sc

into bl of the next 4 st, 2 sc into bl of next st,
1 sc into bl of next 9 st, 2 sc into bl of next st,
1 sc into bl of next 5 st = 23 st

Dress collar - row 1
R 2: Attach the yarn with 1 loop st into 1st st

in r 1. (ch 2, 1 dc into next st, 1 sl st into next
st) x 11 = 11 spaces

collar onto the dress.
Bend the collar over the dress and sew it on

making sure it doesn’t stick out.
Sew the button onto the left back piece. Align

the button with the chain loop on the right
back piece.
Dress collar - row 2
Button on the back piece of the dress

Sleeves Rnd 4: sc3tog, 1 sc into next 8 st, (2 sc into
next st, 1 sc into next st) x 2, 2 sc into next st,
Crochet the sleeves on a spiral with hook 4.0
1 sc into next 8 st = 25 st
throughout the project. Use a marker thread
to mark the beginning of the round.
Decrease multiple stitches at once
Rnd 1: Attach the yarn with 1 loop st into 3rd
st from the right at the bottom of the arm-
hole.
Rnd 5: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st, sc2tog, 1 sc
Work 17 sc around the armhole (avoid work-
into next 15 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st
ing into the corners at the bottom of the arm-
= 22 st
hole if you can):
Rnd 6: 1 sc into next 2 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into next
1 sc into same st as the loop st, 1 sc into next
6 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc
st, 5 sc up along the front/back piece, 4 sc
into next st, 1 sc into next 4 st, sc2tog, 1 sc into
into the top, 5 sc down along the back/front
next st = 22 st
piece, 1 sc into the bottom = 17 st
Continue on a spiral throughout the rest of Rnd 11: (sc2tog, 1 sc into next 3 st) x 4, sc2tog
the project. = 17 st
Rnd 12-13: 1 sc into every st around. Work last

To avoid that the sleeves stick straight out, st in rnd 13 as 1 sl st to even out the transition
work the first and last 4 st into the fl in the between the rnd = 17 st
next 3 rnd.
Rnd 2: 1 sc into next 7 st, (2 sc into next st) You can change color here. In the next round
x 4, 1 sc into next 6 st = 21 st work the small points at the bottom of the
sleeve:
Rnd 3: 1 sc into next 9 st, (2 sc into next st, Rnd 14: (ch 2, 1 sl st into next st of rnd 13)
1 sc into next st) x 2, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into repeat around.
next 7 st = 24 st
Cut the yarn and weave in the end carefully.
Placing the first stitch when beginning the sleeve. Hem and balloon sleeves.

BOW / BOW TIE
A bow is very pretty for Mrs Bunny.
Make sure that you work the first row into the
foundation chain on the back of the row and
not through the chain.
After the first row chain 1 as turning chain as

indicated in the pattern.
Ch 20 with hook 3.5.
R 1: Go to the back of the fch and work 1 sc

into 2nd ch from the hook. 1 sc into every ch
= 18 st
Work into the back of a fch
Ch 1 at the end of each r as tch throughout

the rest of the project.

ends together.
Sew the ends together.
Flatten the project and tie the end around the

middle 4-5 times.
Weave in the end and sew the bow onto the

bunny.

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Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2019 THIS PATTERN IS STRICTLY FOR YOUR PERSONAL USE. IT CAN NOT BE COPIED/SOLD OR DIS-
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Crochet Pattern Mrand Mrs Bunny Krea Deluxe

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Crochet Pattern Mrand Mrs Bunny Krea Deluxe

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MR & MRS BUNNY

DESIGN BY KREA DELUXE

#MrandMrsBunny #crochetnordiceasterdecorations mr = magic ring

Fiber fill: approx. 35 g

INFORMATION PATTERN FOR THE BUNNY

Rnd 7: (1 sc into next 5 st, 2 sc into next st) x 6

Rnd 9-13: 1 sc into every st around = 48 st

It is described how to make the parts in the

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

Rnd 26-27: 1 sc into every st around = 42 st

Rnd 28: (1 sc into next 12 st, sc2tog) x 3

Rnd 38-39: 1 sc into every st around = 30 st Ch 4 – last st is a tch.

Rnd 43: (1 sc into next 7 st, sc2tog) x 3 = 24 st first 2 st in the rnd) = 8 st

Rnd 8-11: 1 sc into every st around = 14 st

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

Rnd 28-31: 1 sc into next st around = 10 st Foot

Rnd 5-7: 1 sc into every st around = 20 st

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2019

Rnd 11: 1 sc into every st around = 16 st

Rnd 12: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 14 st = 15 st

Rnd 13-14: 1 sc into every st around = 15 st

Leave the marker thread in your project. Cut

Place a new marker thread in the 5th st to the

Divide for ankle and heel:

Attach the yarn to the rnd with a loop stitch

Continue to rnd 1 of the leg.

Chains for dividing ankle and heel.

This sc is the first st in the round and the be-

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

Rnd 2-3: 1 sc into every st around = 15 st

Cut off the yarn long enough to use it for sew-

Crochet the head on a spiral from the top

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into

Rnd 12: 1 sc into next 22 st, 2 sc into next st,

Rnd 13: 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 22 st,

Rnd 14-19: 1 sc into every st around = 56 st

Rnd 20: (sc2tog) x 2, 1 sc into next 22 st,

Rnd 21: 1 sc into next 24 st, (sc3tog) x 2, 1 sc

Rnd 22: sc3tog, 1 sc into next 16 st, (sc3tog)

Rnd 23: sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 st, sc2tog, 1 sc

Rnd 24: (sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 st) x 7 = 21 st

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

Rnd 4: (1 sc into next 4 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 5: 1 sc into every st around = 12 st

Rnd 6: (1 sc into next 5 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 7: 1 sc into every st around = 14 st

Rnd 8: (1 sc into next 6 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 9-10: 1 sc into every st around = 16 st

Rnd 11: (1 sc into next 7 st, 2 sc into next st)

Rnd 12-13: 1 sc into every st around = 18 st

Rnd 14: (1 sc into next 8 st, 2 sc into next st)

Rnd 15-16: 1 sc into every st around = 20 st

Rnd 17: (1 sc into next 9 st, 2 sc into next st)

Rnd 18: 1 sc into every st around = 22 st

Rnd 19: (1 sc into next 10 st, 2 sc into next st)

Krea Deluxe © COPYRIGHT 2020

Cut the yarn end long enough to use it to

Rnd 3: (1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 4: (1 sc into next 4 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 5: (1 sc into next 5 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 6: (1 sc into next 6 st, 2 sc into next st) x 2

Rnd 7: 1 sc into every st around = 16 st